# OCN Aquaero Owners Club



## IT Diva

Welcome to the Aquaero Owners Club thread

This is the new thread for all things Aquaero and Aquaero / Aquasuite related.

The original Aquaero 6 thread was started as a new hardware thread for the then coming release of the Aquaero 6.

The A6 is here and in short order has grown quite a following.

The older 5 series is also holding its own for those who don't need the greater current capability or additional 3 channels of PWM the 6 series has to offer.

Here's the original promo pictures and the YouTube video promoting the "New Aquaero 6"

All the fans and the D5 in the video are voltage controlled to show off the new A6's impressive 2.5A per channel capability without an additional heatsink.









It wasn't long after the A6 became available, AC released this passive heatsink for it:

Shown here with the 5 series water block attached, it also fits the 5 series finned passive heatsink:


I'll be updating as I get the chance, and trying to move over some of my A6 mods posts from the original thread.

Once we have a large enough base, we can become "Official" OCN Aquaero Owners Club.

Let's see some Aquaero pics and some spirited discussions.

Aquaero Owners List

IT Diva . . . . . 8X 6 XT, 1X 5 LT
kpeticg . . . . . 6 XT
JottaD . . . . . 5 XT, 6 XT
MeanBruce . . . . . 6 XT
Shoggy . . . . . Rev, 3.07
Kimir . . . . . 6 XT
Holynacho . . . . . 6 Pro
WiSK . . . . . 5 Pro
longroadtrip . . . . . 5 XT
geggeg . . . . . 6XT
skupples . . . . . 6 XT
SeeThruHead . . . . . 5 LT
hiarc . . . . . 6 XT
Jackusonfire . . . . .
TATH . . . . . 2X 6XT, 2X 6 Pro, 2X 5 Pro
Marscorpion . . . . . 6XT
SinatraFan . . . . . 6XT
avielcs . . . . . 6 XT
chimaychanga . . . . . 6 XT
valvehead . . . . . 6 XT
kcuestag . . . . . 5 XT
shakurass . . . . . 6 Pro
gdubc . . . . . 6 XT, 2X 5LT
Cheesehead . . . . . 6 XT
jakstak . . . . . 6 XT
B NEGATIVE . . . . . 5 XT
whyscotty . . . . . 5 Pro
seross69 . . . . . 2X 5LT's, 2X 6 Pro
seross69 . . . . . 12X PA's, 4X AQ D5
theseekeroffun . . . . . 2X 5 Pro
Mayhem . . . . . 5 Pro, 5XT, 2X 5LT
ozzy1925 . . . . . 6 XT
Nornam . . . . . 6 Pro, 6XT
Nornam . . . . . 5 Pro, 2X 5XT, 3X 5LT
fast_fate . . . . . 5 Pro, 2X 5XT, 2X 5LT, 1X 6XT
fast_fate . . . . . 1X Rev. 4.0 USB
mandrix . . . . . 2X 5 Pro, 5LT, PA2 Ultra
reisscar . . . . . 6 Pro
Jeronbernal . . . . . 5 LT
nyck . . . . . 6 XT, 5LT
MasterJ . . . . . 6 Pro
Gabrielzm . . . . . 6 XT
Ironsmack . . . . . 2X 5 LT
mantrius . . . . . 6 XT
CasualCat . . . . . 5 LT
chino1974 . . . . . 6 XT
Party3an . . . . . 6 PRO
Malpractis . . . . . 6 XT
badkarma3059 . . . . . 6XT
LostParticle . . . . . 5 LT
Jakewat . . . . . 5 LT
REDEMPTEURE . . . . . 6 PRO
gamerking . . . . . 5 LT
wjturner78 . . . . . 6 XT
Barefooter . . . . . 6 XT
hamed599 . . . . . 5 XT
timepart . . . . . . 5 PRO
jeanspaulo . . . . . 6 XT
JLMS2010 . . . . . . 6 PRO
headbass . . . . . . 6 PRO
Archea47 . . . . . . 6 PRO
Jflisk . . . . . . 5 LT
Z0eff . . . . . . 6 PRO

Know Issues & Compatibility List

Known Issues:

PWM Version of the D5 not controllable with the A6
PWM Version of the Corsair fans not controllable
with more than 5 or 6 on a channel

Tested Compatible:

MCP35X pumps, up to 4 on a channel tested OK

Aquasuite Compatible - Hardware Monitoring Software:

AIDA64 Extreme Edition . . . always use the latest version
AIDA64 Downloads Page: . . . http://www.aida64.com/downloads

Open Hardware Monitor . . . always use the latest edition
Downloads Page: . . . http://openhardwaremonitor.org/

HWiNFO . . . select the one for your OS
Downloads Page . . . http://www.hwinfo.com/download.php

Helpful Links:

Posts with workarounds for fixable known issues:

Under construction

Latest Version of Aquasuite:

http://aquacomputer.de/tl_files/aquacomputer/downloads/aquasuite/aquasuite_setup.exe

Aquasuite Guides and Tutorials:, courtesy of kpoeticg

New Location for Nam's guides: (note; you may have to register)

http://www.pcmforums.co.uk/forumdisplay.php?57-Man-On-The-Street-Reviews&utm_campaign=website&utm_source=sendgrid.com&utm_medium=email

http://www.serifwebresources.com/phpBB2mt/index.php?forumid=872280 (Nams Forum with his reviews and guides)

http://forum.aquacomputer.de/weitere-foren/english-forum/103158-aerotools-ng-linux-support-for-the-aquaero-5/?s=ab4122be5e9f8d3ce28eb46407c63525b19bfc85

http://forum.aquacomputer.de/weitere-foren/english-forum/103086-aquahost-lcdhost-aquasuite2013-for-noobz/

http://forums.overclockers.com.au/showthread.php?t=1060642 (Modding a D5 Vario into an AC D5 with a Mips PCB)

http://forum.aquacomputer.de/berwachung-und-steuerung/102291-jeak-rgb-amp/ (For running RGB Strips off the RGB Header)

http://forum.aquacomputer.de/berwachung-und-steuerung/101672-mehrere-led-am-aquaero-reprise/ (How to build your own Aquaero RGB Amp)

Aquacomputer English Forums A6:

http://forum.aquacomputer.de/weitere-foren/english-forum/103573-new-aquaero-6/


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## kpoeticg

Subbed









Edit: Should you reserve a cpl posts? Feel free to ask a mod to delete this for a reserved space if needed


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## JottaD

Nice Darlene,
I have both 5 and 6

thanks









*aquaero 5 XT*



*aquaero 6 XT*


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## MeanBruce

Darlene









Use any of my photos you want to spread the Aquaero love.


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## IT Diva

Welcome to the club
















Hopefully, some of the guys with a lot of experience with the A5 and A6 will bring their vast knowledge base here.

Darlene


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## Shoggy

I own an aquaero 3.07 - can I join?

LOL


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## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> I own an aquaero 3.07 - can I join?
> 
> LOL


Might have to put that request up for a members vote . . . .









Welcome aboard, Sir.

Darlene


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## JottaD

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> I own an aquaero 3.07 - can I join?
> 
> LOL


Nice to see you here


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## longroadtrip

Count me in! AQ5 XT in monsterITX and an AQ6 XT on order for mPowered!


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## VSG

Can I also join?


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## IT Diva

As you guys run across posts and get feedback on which PWM fans work in large numbers with the A6, please post it so I can update the Known Issues and Compatibility section in the 1st post.

@ Shoggy, can you post the preferred link to the latest Aquasuite firmware edition so I can add it to the 1st post, Thanks in advance,

@ Everyone, if you know or have a link to Aquasuite tutorials or guides, please post them and I'll put them in a section in the 1st post.

Thanks in advance, together we make this club rock . . . .









Darlene


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## skupples

12th!

Aquasuite

direct link to my dropbox.


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## Shoggy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> @ Shoggy, can you post the preferred link to the latest Aquasuite firmware edition so I can add it to the 1st post, Thanks in advance


Just link to http://aquacomputer.de/tl_files/aquacomputer/downloads/aquasuite/aquasuite_setup.exe - it is always the latest version and the firmware can not be downloaded separately since it is integrated into the aquasuite. So when you use the latest version you will also have the latest firmware.


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## kpoeticg

Here's some relevant links sitting in my bookmarks folder

http://www.specialtechforums.co.uk/showthread.php?3393-NAMS-NEW-BASIC-GUIDE-to-the-AQUAERO-5

http://www.serifwebresources.com/phpBB2mt/index.php?forumid=872280 (Nams Forum with his reviews and guides)
http://forum.aquacomputer.de/weitere-foren/english-forum/103158-aerotools-ng-linux-support-for-the-aquaero-5/
http://forum.aquacomputer.de/weitere-foren/english-forum/103086-aquahost-lcdhost-aquasuite2013-for-noobz/
http://forums.overclockers.com.au/showthread.php?t=1060642 (Modding a D5 Vario into an AC D5 with a Mps PCB)
http://forum.aquacomputer.de/berwachung-und-steuerung/102291-jeak-rgb-amp/ (For running RGB Strips off the RGB Header)

http://forum.aquacomputer.de/berwachung-und-steuerung/101672-mehrere-led-am-aquaero-reprise/ (How to build your own Aquaero RGB Amp)


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## Shoggy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> http://forums.overclockers.com.au/showthread.php?t=1060642 (Modding a D5 Vario into an AC D5 with a Mps PCB)


We do not sell these boards separately! This guy only got a new controller board since we were under the (wrong) impression he wanted to repair his USB version of the pump and not modding another normal pump with it.


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## IT Diva

Thanks guys, I've been grouping the info in sections in the 1st post.

I'm nowhere near as skilled as Luna with the R4BE thread, but I sure wish I was at least half that proficient.

Hopefully, we'll create a one-stop knowledge base for Aquaero related information.

Darlene


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## kpoeticg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> We do not sell these boards separately! This guy only got a new controller board since we were under the (wrong) impression he wanted to repair his USB version of the pump and not modding another normal pump with it.


LOLLLL. It's funny, i was actually gonna put (Sorry Shoggy) in parenthesis next to that one

I know you don't sell the PCB's, but it doesn't necessarily mean people can't do the mod if they have an extra one. If you want me to edit that link out of the post, let me know









Edit: For instance, for somebody that already owns a D5 Vario, but want the Aquabus control. They could just spend 50 bux instead of the extra 140 for a new pump



Still gives business to Aquacomputer and might save some1 money....


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## Kimir

Owner of an aquaero 6 xt here, I've been lurking the aquaero 6 news topic for a while now until I can put my rig together.


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## Holynacho

Yay, crappy photo time!

AQ6 Pro in my latest build that will never get done......


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## IT Diva

Kimir and Holynacho added to the owners list. . . .









If anyone is good at making a Club Signature, please toss up some ideas and we'll see what gets the most thumbs up.

Darlene


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## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Holynacho*
> 
> Yay, crappy photo time!
> 
> AQ6 Pro in my latest build that will never get done......


Same. Crap photo of AQ5 that's not in the rig that it thinks it's in












Can I join please?


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## longroadtrip

Is this for all Aquaeros or just the AQ6? I'd like to be added for my 5XT if it's ok...


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## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Holynacho*
> 
> Yay, crappy photo time!
> 
> AQ6 Pro in my latest build that will never get done......
> 
> 
> 
> Same. Crap photo of AQ5 that's not in the rig that it thinks it's in
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Can I join please?
Click to expand...

Added to the list

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *longroadtrip*
> 
> Is this for all Aquaeros or just the AQ6? I'd like to be added for my 5XT if it's ok...


For all Aquaeros, even Shoggy's stone age relic









Added to the list

Darlene


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## longroadtrip

Thank you IT Diva for starting this club!


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## kpoeticg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *longroadtrip*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thank you IT Diva for starting this club!


^^


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## VSG

Wait, do you need pictures for proof of ownership to join?


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## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> LOLLLL. It's funny, i was actually gonna put (Sorry Shoggy) in parenthesis next to that one
> 
> I know you don't sell the PCB's, but it doesn't necessarily mean people can't do the mod if they have an extra one. If you want me to edit that link out of the post, let me know
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Edit: For instance, for somebody that already owns a D5 Vario, but want the Aquabus control. They could just spend 50 bux instead of the extra 140 for a new pump
> 
> 
> 
> Still gives business to Aquacomputer and might save some1 money....


I have 3x MCP35X2, thus have no need to know my pressure, as i know it is high as hell.









*proof of ownership.*


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## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Wait, do you need pictures for proof of ownership to join?


In your case, we need several pics, and they have to be notarized with 3 forms of picture ID . . .









geggeg & skupples

Added to the list

D.

Hey guys, do you think I should add which Aquaero(s) you have after your names in the owners list?


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## kpoeticg

Lol, my 35x3's pressure actually has me wanting to buy one of those. Already drenched my apartment in Blood Red X1 twice in one day









I just posted it because it's proibly the cheapest way to get yourself an AC PCB







(Aside from getting another similar used item)


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## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> Lol, my 35x3's pressure actually has me wanting to buy one of those. Already drenched my apartment in Blood Red X1 twice in one day
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I just posted it because it's proibly the cheapest way to get yourself an AC PCB
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (Aside from getting another similar used item)











D plugs + multiple pumps = bad news.


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## kpoeticg

NOWWW you tell me


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## skupples




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## ngzb

Thank you Darlene for starting this thread









I can't be a member cause i dont have an A6....... But i will as soon as the new revision are available
















But i'll be around


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## kpoeticg

The ribbon cable assembly i ordered from Digikey to separate the main pcb from the lcd is being delivered on Monday. I'll post some pics in here if it works like i'm hoping =)


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## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ngzb*
> 
> Thank you Darlene for starting this thread
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I can't be a member cause i dont have an A6....... But i will as soon as the new revision are available
> 
> 
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> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But i'll be around


We'll hold a spot for ya








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> The ribbon cable assembly i ordered from Digikey to separate the main pcb from the lcd is being delivered on Monday. I'll post some pics in here if it works like i'm hoping =)


That should be a pretty slick mod, waiting to see how that comes out.

D.


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## kpoeticg

Me too









Thanx for helping me find the parts i needed


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## SeeThruHead

I've got an aq5 lt.


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## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ngzb*
> 
> Thank you Darlene for starting this thread
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I can't be a member cause i dont have an A6....... But i will as soon as the new revision are available
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> But i'll be around


waiting 3-4 months just to use those obscenely loud corsair fans seems silly.


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## Jakusonfire

Guess I should join.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> We do not sell these boards separately! This guy only got a new controller board since we were under the (wrong) impression he wanted to repair his USB version of the pump and not modding another normal pump with it.


The thread, or rather small part of a thread, has been edited to reflect that.

For the sake of accuracy, the board was bought for an Aqucomputer D5 that was thought to be damaged at the time because it got a bit wet and the Aquaero / MPS D5 was experiencing the notorious and common disappearing device problem. Only while trying to 'repair' the vanished D5 was it discovered to be not the problem and that the whole thing was possible.

Maybe an official conversion kit would encourage more Aquaero ownership though?


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## hiarc

6 XT


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## TATH

Count me in got 4 off them 2 x 5 pro and 2 x 6 pro "wha just want say i got them" .


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## Marscorpion

I have Aquaero 6 XT








How Aquaero 6 works with swiftech mcp-35x (PWM)? Are there any problems?


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## VSG

It works great


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## SinatraFan

I'm in... I own a A6 XT but it's still in the box. Still finishing the rig. should be installing it sometime in the next few weeks


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## ngzb

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ngzb*
> 
> Thank you Darlene for starting this thread
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I can't be a member cause i dont have an A6....... But i will as soon as the new revision are available
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But i'll be around


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> waiting 3-4 months just to use those obscenely loud corsair fans seems silly.


Yes you would be right if i had my new computer finished and just missing the fans controller, but that´s not my case , the new pc will not be done before June or July .

And probably you also right about the corsairs being noisy but i could buy 2 fans almost for the same price as 1 fan from other brand, at the same time i don't have that much fan brands to choose over here.

And BTW those fans will be slow cause they will be cooling 1 x UT60 480 + 1x Monsta 480 + 1x UT60 240 Rads

I got the fans from the same order that i got my case,those were the first parts i bought for the new build.

I just have the A6 missing to have the WC loop done.

My computer is now 7 years old , i am waiting for the new intel processors ,so until then i'm slowly building the pc


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## avielcs

Hi all
Just got my AQ6, after reading all the threads and me being a noob in watercooling i would to know if someone has any other links to tutorials/manuals for the AQ6?
I've tried the ones posted in the first thread but still found my self a bit overwlmed by it.
Do you know a more basic manual ? In english i mean.
Hope you could help me
Many thanks


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## Nornam

Excellent stuff Darlene, Great idea to have a dedicated place for all things Aquaero







...

Also Many thanks for the mentions (nams guides on ST & my own little site) Greatly appreciated ..Thank you









Always happy to help if & when I can (but also more than happy to learn also from others experiences







)

N. (Namron on ST & my site)..


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## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *avielcs*
> 
> Hi all
> Just got my AQ6, after reading all the threads and me being a noob in watercooling i would to know if someone has any other links to tutorials/manuals for the AQ6?
> I've tried the ones posted in the first thread but still found my self a bit overwlmed by it.
> Do you know a more basic manual ? In english i mean.
> Hope you could help me
> Many thanks


The latest english manual talks about Aquasuite and the Aquaero I think if you have not looked at it;
http://aquacomputer.de/handbuecher.html?file=tl_files/aquacomputer/downloads/manuals/aquaero_5_6_en_2013_11_08.pdf

The manual I had when starting was shocking and just learnt by mucking around and experimenting with it.


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## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TATH*
> 
> Count me in got 4 off them 2 x 5 pro and 2 x 6 pro "wha just want say i got them" .


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Marscorpion*
> 
> I have Aquaero 6 XT
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> How Aquaero 6 works with swiftech mcp-35x (PWM)? Are there any problems?


It's good to go, even doubles and triples work OK . . . . . It's in the "Compatible" list.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SinatraFan*
> 
> I'm in... I own a A6 XT but it's still in the box. Still finishing the rig. should be installing it sometime in the next few weeks


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *avielcs*
> 
> Hi all
> Just got my AQ6, after reading all the threads and me being a noob in watercooling i would to know if someone has any other links to tutorials/manuals for the AQ6?
> I've tried the ones posted in the first thread but still found my self a bit overwlmed by it.
> Do you know a more basic manual ? In english i mean.
> Hope you could help me
> Many thanks


Welcome aboard everyone.

New names added to the members list on the 1st post.

I'm trying to keep the first post members list updated with which Aquaero series / model you have.

Please check and make sure I have your entry correct. If there's no model listed, please let me know what you have.

Nornam, wonderful to see you here, You guide helped me get my 5 LT set up as a slave to ne of the 6 XT's.

Darlene


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## avielcs

Well thanks for the quick replies everyone.
BTW i own an AQ6 XT.
I'll check the manual you guys linked.
I'm far from completing my build as i'm waiting for all the parts to arrive.
Cheers


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## IT Diva

Hey Guys,

Can you let me know which hardware monitoring software you're using that's Aquasuite Compatible?

I'm trying to post it all with links in the 1st post.

AIDA64 is working for me without a hiccup so far.

Darlene


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## MeanBruce

I'll ask again since it got lost in the shuffle.

I'm still not clear on the PWM advantage. Can someone explain why anyone would want this schema, when you already own a 4-channel (16+fans per channel) Aquaero 6?

But then I'm only running a simple 7-fan array using three of the four A6 channels and using 80mA and 130mA fans, so what do I know?









Shoggy says the multitude of fans in the original Aquaero 6 video were all voltage driven, so why the need for PWM fans and circuitry?

http://s1177.photobucket.com/user/MeanBruce/media/IMG_5952_zps61764f52.jpg.html


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## chimaychanga

Subbed § Can I join please







A6 XT

Btw Darlene.. any solution yet to controlling the PWM D5 on A6 ? doh I didnt read your topic


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## MeanBruce

Sweet chassis bro, I'm moving from a Magnum M8 into a Gemini G8 as soon as they become available, this summer maybe.

Thanks for the informative photo (+1), lets me know I can assign various ID names and labels to each Aquaero 6 fan channel.

http://s1177.photobucket.com/user/MeanBruce/media/IMG_6479_zpsddda0841.jpg.html


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## chimaychanga

i love the SM8.. im almost done with my cable sleeving/management









sorry for spamming


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## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chimaychanga*
> 
> Subbed § Can I join please
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A6 XT
> 
> Btw Darlene.. any solution yet to controlling the PWM D5 on A6 ? doh I didnt read your topic
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Yes, . . . .

There's a really good way with an add-on PCB, but there's also a quick and easy way that yields acceptable results without having to run wires and plug into a 5V molex pin somewhere.

Here's copied from the "old" A6 thread with some additional information:

For the capable DIY'er . . .

While not as optimal a solution as the active component based solutions, this is a workable solution to the issue of having a PWM D5.



I've tried it on a single and a dual D5 setup and it works satisfactorily with pullups optimized for each case, and it's dead nuts simple, though not exactly elegant.

At issue is that the D5 needs a fairly "strong" pullup, (lower resistance) . . . while the A6 works best with weaker pullups, (higher resistance).

This setup uses the 12V available from the first 2 of the 4 PWM fan pins on each channel of the A6.

The Zener diode and larger resistor form a 5V regulated source that the smaller resistor connects the PWM line to.

The diode is a 5.1V Zener diode, and the larger resistor, the 1/2 W one, is a 560 Ohm, but 470, 680, 820, or 1K will work as well. 1K may be the easiest to find.

Be sure you have the Zener diode polarity connected as in the pic.

The smaller resistor, 1/4 W, is a 2.2K which I'd suggest for a dual D5 setup, but for a single D5, a 3.3K would be fine.

The smaller size, 1/6W or 1/8W are electrically OK, but the smaller physical size makes lead breakage more of an issue, so stay with 1/4W.

Everything shown is available from RadioShack.

Hope that helps,

Darlene


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## MeanBruce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chimaychanga*
> 
> i love the SM8.. im almost done with my cable sleeving/management
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> sorry for spamming


I LOVE your black and white theme, its so austere and businessy, I almost bought some Corsair White AX860 (Seasonic Platinum) PSU cables for my rig from Performance PCs and went that direction, but decided to wait until I get into the new CaseLabs Gemini.

http://s1177.photobucket.com/user/MeanBruce/media/IMG_5007_zps19bb07e6.jpg.html

Got my first real radiator an XSPC RX360 V3 in January, going to build a custom AIO without a reservoir, closed loop and contained, maintained outside of the pc and mounted just like an H100i.

My components list:

AquaComputer Aquabus USB D5 pump
XSPC RX360 v3 rad [already purchased]
XSPC copper CPU block

...


----------



## chimaychanga

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Yes, . . . .
> 
> There's a really good way with an add-on PCB, but there's also a quick and easy way that yields acceptable results without having to run wires and plug into a 5V molex pin somewhere.
> 
> Here's copied from the "old" A6 thread with some additional information:
> 
> For the capable DIY'er . . .
> 
> While not as optimal a solution as the active component based solutions, this is a workable solution to the issue of having a PWM D5.
> 
> 
> 
> I've tried it on a single and a dual D5 setup and it works satisfactorily with pullups optimized for each case, and it's dead nuts simple, though not exactly elegant.
> 
> At issue is that the D5 needs a fairly "strong" pullup, (lower resistance) . . . while the A6 works best with weaker pullups, (higher resistance).
> 
> This setup uses the 12V available from the first 2 of the 4 PWM fan pins on each channel of the A6.
> 
> The Zener diode and larger resistor form a 5V regulated source that the smaller resistor connects the PWM line to.
> 
> The diode is a 5.1V Zener diode, and the larger resistor, the 1/2 W one, is a 560 Ohm, but 470, 680, 820, or 1K will work as well. 1K may be the easiest to find.
> 
> Be sure you have the Zener diode polarity connected as in the pic.
> 
> The smaller resistor, 1/4 W, is a 2.2K which I'd suggest for a dual D5 setup, but for a single D5, a 3.3K would be fine.
> 
> The smaller size, 1/6W or 1/8W are electrically OK, but the smaller physical size makes lead breakage more of an issue, so stay with 1/4W.
> 
> Everything shown is available from RadioShack.
> 
> Hope that helps,
> 
> Darlene


Sweet mod







so i don't need to buy the Aquacomputer D5 pump after all
I actually have electronics as one of my subjects in school so I can easily get the resistors needed. But im a bit confused on the diode part ? and what are these green and blue cables.. lawl electronics is still new to me as you can see

...thanks for the props Bruce


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chimaychanga*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Yes, . . . .
> 
> There's a really good way with an add-on PCB, but there's also a quick and easy way that yields acceptable results without having to run wires and plug into a 5V molex pin somewhere.
> 
> Here's copied from the "old" A6 thread with some additional information:
> 
> For the capable DIY'er . . .
> 
> While not as optimal a solution as the active component based solutions, this is a workable solution to the issue of having a PWM D5.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've tried it on a single and a dual D5 setup and it works satisfactorily with pullups optimized for each case, and it's dead nuts simple, though not exactly elegant.
> 
> At issue is that the D5 needs a fairly "strong" pullup, (lower resistance) . . . while the A6 works best with weaker pullups, (higher resistance).
> 
> This setup uses the 12V available from the first 2 of the 4 PWM fan pins on each channel of the A6.
> 
> The Zener diode and larger resistor form a 5V regulated source that the smaller resistor connects the PWM line to.
> 
> The diode is a 5.1V Zener diode, and the larger resistor, the 1/2 W one, is a 560 Ohm, but 470, 680, 820, or 1K will work as well. 1K may be the easiest to find.
> 
> Be sure you have the Zener diode polarity connected as in the pic.
> 
> The smaller resistor, 1/4 W, is a 2.2K which I'd suggest for a dual D5 setup, but for a single D5, a 3.3K would be fine.
> 
> The smaller size, 1/6W or 1/8W are electrically OK, but the smaller physical size makes lead breakage more of an issue, so stay with 1/4W.
> 
> Everything shown is available from RadioShack.
> 
> Hope that helps,
> 
> Darlene
> 
> 
> 
> Sweet mod
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> so i don't need to buy the Aquacomputer D5 pump after all
> I actually have electronics as one of my subjects in school so I can easily get the resistors needed. But im a bit confused on the diode part ? and what are these green and blue cables.. lawl electronics is still new to me as you can see
> 
> ...thanks for the props Bruce
Click to expand...

The green and blue wires are the PWM and tach wire for the D5 connector.

That mod goes right on the D5's 4 pin connector that plugs onto the A6.

The easiest way to do it might actually be to make up a short extension cable with the mod on the extension cable's plug.

Google Zener Diode, and you'll see how they work so they can create a 5V source from the 12V that's present on the power pins of the A6 fan connectors.

Darlene


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Hey Guys,
> 
> Can you let me know which hardware monitoring software you're using that's Aquasuite Compatible?
> 
> I'm trying to post it all with links in the 1st post.
> 
> AIDA64 is working for me without a hiccup so far.
> 
> Darlene


Hardware Info 64 seems to have the most points of reference out of the freeware utilities, including VRM temps. I have had issues trying to sync AIDA for w/e reason i'm not sure. Maybe because iv'e only tried using the freeware versions.


----------



## chimaychanga

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> The green and blue wires are the PWM and tach wire for the D5 connector.
> 
> That mod goes right on the D5's 4 pin connector that plugs onto the A6.
> 
> The easiest way to do it might actually be to make up a short extension cable with the mod on the extension cable's plug.
> 
> Google Zener Diode, and you'll see how they work so they can create a 5V source from the 12V that's present on the power pins of the A6 fan connectors.
> 
> Darlene


But why do you have 2 of each wire ?? and did you solder the diode and resistors on to the fan terminals?

EDIT:
I see now.. you have 2 D5 pump cables underneath your sleeving







right ?


----------



## longroadtrip

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Hey Guys,
> 
> Can you let me know which hardware monitoring software you're using that's Aquasuite Compatible?
> 
> I'm trying to post it all with links in the 1st post.
> 
> AIDA64 is working for me without a hiccup so far.
> 
> Darlene


Open Hardware Monitor, but the link for the Aquaero version no longer seems to be active.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chimaychanga*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> The green and blue wires are the PWM and tach wire for the D5 connector.
> 
> That mod goes right on the D5's 4 pin connector that plugs onto the A6.
> 
> The easiest way to do it might actually be to make up a short extension cable with the mod on the extension cable's plug.
> 
> Google Zener Diode, and you'll see how they work so they can create a 5V source from the 12V that's present on the power pins of the A6 fan connectors.
> 
> Darlene
> 
> 
> 
> But why do you have 2 of each wire ?? and did you solder the diode and resistors on to the fan terminals?
> 
> EDIT:
> I see now.. you have 2 D5 pump cables underneath your sleeving
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> right ?
Click to expand...

Yes, that cable was made as a Y cable for a dual D5 setup, but could seem confusing with the extra wires.

The diode and large resistor are each soldered to a terminal.

Here's the easiest way to implement the mod, . . . . as a short, 2 wire extension for the PWM and tach signals
:





Darlene

Update:

Here's the little modded extension cable installed, note that the pullup resistor is a 3.3K, basically a workable compromise for either single or dual D5's, but really better suited to a single:



Here's the scope with only 1 of the D5's PWM line connected, notice that the pulse voltage is right about 3.4V max, and very near 0V min.

Ideally, the max should be right at 5V, but the D5's electronics load the circuit down some.



Now here's the scope with both D5's PWM line connected, notice it's now loaded down to about 2.5V.

The lower max pulse voltage can be accounted for with slightly higher percentage settings in Aquasuite.



Note also that max voltage for both single and dual setups does go up a little as the pulse width is increased.

What's really important in both cases, is that the pulse's "off time" voltage stays very close to 0V.

If the pullup resistor is lowered to 1k or so, the max voltage comes up very close to 5V, but the "off time" voltage climbs up closer to .8V or so, and then the pump doesn't see it as off time any more , and runs full speed with no regards to the pulse width.

That's why if you have a dual D5, use a 2.2K when you make your cable, and a 3.3K if you have a single D5.

Darlene


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *longroadtrip*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Hey Guys,
> 
> Can you let me know which hardware monitoring software you're using that's Aquasuite Compatible?
> 
> I'm trying to post it all with links in the 1st post.
> 
> AIDA64 is working for me without a hiccup so far.
> 
> Darlene
> 
> 
> 
> Open Hardware Monitor, but the link for the Aquaero version no longer seems to be active.
Click to expand...

Have you got a link, please?

You mean the latest Aquasuite Version?

It's the auto download of the latest version, it just worked for me.

D.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Hey Guys,
> 
> Can you let me know which hardware monitoring software you're using that's Aquasuite Compatible?
> 
> I'm trying to post it all with links in the 1st post.
> 
> AIDA64 is working for me without a hiccup so far.
> 
> Darlene
> 
> 
> 
> Hardware Info 64 seems to have the most points of reference out of the freeware utilities, including VRM temps. I have had issues trying to sync AIDA for w/e reason i'm not sure. Maybe because iv'e only tried using the freeware versions.
Click to expand...

Have you got a link to where you got it, and is there a version #, please?

Thanks in advance,

D.


----------



## longroadtrip

There used to be a special version of Open Hardware Monitor v 0.5.1 I think it was (not at home so I can't look) that was specifically written for the aquasuite software. The link for it is now dead, so the latest version may incorporate it, but I'm not positive.









openhardwaremonitor.org


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *longroadtrip*
> 
> There used to be a special version of Open Hardware Monitor v 0.5.1 I think it was (not at home so I can't look) that was specifically written for the aquasuite software. The link for it is now dead, so the latest version may incorporate it, but I'm not positive.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> openhardwaremonitor.org


I use the latest version and it works fine with Aquasuite.


----------



## longroadtrip

Good to know Wisk!







Going to download it when I get home as there are a couple issues with v 0.5.1. Thanks for the heads up!


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Have you got a link to where you got it, and is there a version #, please?
> 
> Thanks in advance,
> 
> D.


http://www.hwinfo.com/download.php

only reason I use this over open is that it has a few more probe pickups. Socket, VRM, and one of them seems to be something similar to TJ Max.


----------



## MeanBruce

My amazing Aquaero 6 XT

I'll be adding an AquaComputer Aquabus pump this summer.









So what does the red blinking LED signify under the aquabus terminals? Data Transmission?

Alina: I wish for Bruce's heaven
Bruce: follow me, I'll take you there


----------



## IT Diva

Open hardware Monitor and HWiNFO added to the list









Thanks team,

D.


----------



## chimaychanga

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Yes, that cable was made as a Y cable for a dual D5 setup, but could seem confusing with the extra wires.
> 
> The diode and large resistor are each soldered to a terminal.
> 
> Here's the easiest way to implement the mod, . . . . as a short, 2 wire extension for the PWM and tach signals
> :
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Darlene


Great !

Ill try it out very soon

Thanks Darlene


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chimaychanga*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Yes, that cable was made as a Y cable for a dual D5 setup, but could seem confusing with the extra wires.
> 
> The diode and large resistor are each soldered to a terminal.
> 
> Here's the easiest way to implement the mod, . . . . as a short, 2 wire extension for the PWM and tach signals
> :
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Darlene
> 
> 
> 
> Great !
> 
> Ill try it out very soon
> 
> Thanks Darlene
Click to expand...

I just updated post 63 with some pics of it in operation, and scope pics so you see what's occurring with adding pumps, or a change in the pullup resistor value.

D.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> I just updated post 63 with some pics of it in operation, and scope pics so you see what's occurring with adding pumps, or a change in the pullup resistor value.
> 
> D.


Would it be fine to just splice in my third pump with my already existing swiftech 2 in 1 PWM splitter?


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> I just updated post 63 with some pics of it in operation, and scope pics so you see what's occurring with adding pumps, or a change in the pullup resistor value.
> 
> D.
> 
> 
> 
> Would it be fine to just splice in my third pump with my already existing swiftech 2 in 1 PWM splitter?
Click to expand...

Sure, just connect the PWM wire from the 3rd one to the other 2.

Might be cleaner to add another shielded 4 pin receptacle to the splitter harness, so the third pump just plugs in like the second.

Darlene


----------



## skupples

Thx D. I'll probably get one of those triple splitters if I find a need for another order but I've already spent 800$ on migrating to this sth-10.


----------



## JottaD

What to do on a Sunday afternoon?

Sleeving cables for aquaero and poweradjust


----------



## valvehead

Aquaero 6 XT here.


----------



## kcuestag

Add me to the owner's list, I have an Aquaero 5 XT!


----------



## chimaychanga

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> I just updated post 63 with some pics of it in operation, and scope pics so you see what's occurring with adding pumps, or a change in the pullup resistor value.
> 
> D.


Looks good.. you definitely know your ****







but I wont be operating 2 pumps any time soon.
Thanks again


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *valvehead*
> 
> Aquaero 6 XT here.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kcuestag*
> 
> Add me to the owner's list, I have an Aquaero 5 XT!


Added to the Owners List









D.


----------



## chimaychanga

Ok. I got the diode and resistors









On my zener diode is written ZPE5V1 is this correct ?




Jobs done










Which connection on the A6 should I plug it in to ?


----------



## IT Diva

First, if you want to test your handiwork, before powering up your pump, apply 12V to the circuit you just added . . . . .

Gnd on the first pin, . . . plus + on the second pin, (next to the tach wire).

Now measure with a multimeter, the PWM pin should be +5V relative to the gnd pin, #1.

Once you see that all is well, you're ready to proceed.

Decide which channel of your A6 you want to control your pump from, and be sure that it's set to PWM in the Fans / Advanced tab.

If you're already familiar with Aquasuite enough to do that, and then set up a manual "preset value" controller for it, then plug it into that channel.

Looking at the back of the A6, number 1 is on the left.

For the D5, in the Fans tab, set min to 20% and max to 85% .

Check the "hold min power" box.

Then when you move the slider in the controller, it'll run at min rpm up to about 5 to10%, and then increase proportionally to max when you have the slider at 100%.

The slider's 0 to 100% range, controls within the span you previously set in fans tab, 20 to 85%

Min rpm is a little over 800, and max is around 4400.

Darlene


----------



## chimaychanga

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> First, if you want to test your handiwork, before powering up your pump, apply 12V to the circuit you just added . . . . .
> 
> Gnd on the first pin, . . . plus + on the second pin, (next to the tach wire).
> 
> Now measure with a multimeter, the PWM pin should be +5V relative to the gnd pin, #1.
> 
> Once you see that all is well, you're ready to proceed.


Damn.. do I need to test it ??







haven't got a multimeter

What is worst case scenario ? can it fry the A6 ?


----------



## kpoeticg

Dude, buy a Multimeter. How do you have a set of Helping Hands but no Multimeter? Run to Home Depot or whatevers near you.

Sorry, not trying to sound condescending. Multimeter's are pretty handy to have around for modding though.


----------



## chimaychanga

Cuz im newb to these kind of mods..







Ill steal one from class tomorrow









Just wanted to fire up my pump and see the result of my mod.. Would it be foolish to try it out before testing?


----------



## kpoeticg

I'd say maybe try it out on a fan and maybe an old fan controller if you have one. That's if you can't wait til tomorrow or buy a multimeter first

If you apply 12v to the circuit, then wire the pwm, gnd, & tach, to a 3Pin connector, the fan should run at 5v speeds instead of full speed


----------



## chimaychanga

I did the mod directly on the PWM cable of the pump.. didn't have any spare parts to make the mod for an extension cable

EDIT:

I just bought the helping hands the other day and Home Depot is on the other side of the world from me


----------



## kpoeticg

I dunno, when it comes to modding electronics i'm like a little baby monkey learning how to peel a banana compared to Darlene.

Since it's her mod, i'm sure she understands the risks better. Usually if there's a chance of swapping gnd & +v though, you're risking all the hardware that's wired to it (including the psu)

The whole reason i went with a multi-rail psu this time around is because i blew my last psu when i accidentally swapped gnd & +v on a wire harness. Blew a fan like that too


----------



## chimaychanga

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> First, if you want to test your handiwork, before powering up your pump..


She did say "IF" didn't she ?


----------



## Kenjiwing

Guys.. does the sticker need to come off the aquaero 5? i just noticed I never took mine off lol. The one that labels the ports etc.


----------



## kpoeticg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chimaychanga*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> First, if you want to test your handiwork, before powering up your pump..
> 
> 
> 
> She did say "IF" didn't she ?
Click to expand...

Lol, yes yes. You can def try just running it. It's just your essentially using your PSU, Aquaero, & PWM D5 as test equipment. If you blow any combination of those, then tomorrow you're gonna be miserable knowing that if you just waited, you wouldn't have ruined 100's in hardware. Trust me, on that. I've been there many times









If you're confident, give it a shot.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kenjiwing*
> 
> Guys.. does the sticker need to come off the aquaero 5? i just noticed I never took mine off lol. The one that labels the ports etc.


No. It's there to act as a label for the ports. You can remove it if you want, or have a reason to. But you def don't need to just for the hell of it


----------



## VSG

I don't see why the stickers needs to go.


----------



## avielcs

Can i use an 1/4 resistor instead of the 1/2 one?


----------



## Barefooter

I can't join yet, however I did subscribe so I can learn more. Thanks Darlene for putting this thread together. It is now *the* go to place for Aquaero info!


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *avielcs*
> 
> Can i use an 1/4 resistor instead of the 1/2 one?


Should not be a problem.

The one a few posts back is using a 1/4W - 560 Ohm with the zener diode.

Darlene


----------



## chimaychanga

Darlene. Is there any potential risk in powering op my system without testing the mod ?


----------



## MeanBruce

About that sticker removal, I found this statement in the bottom of the box, scared the hell out of me.

"After shipment of an Aquaero product in commerce it shall be unlawful, except as provided in this subchapter, to remove or mutilate, or cause or participate in the removal or mutilation of, prior to and during ownership of any Aquaero product sold and delivered to the ultimate consumer, any stamp, tag, label, sticker or other identification required by this subchapter to be affixed to such Aquaero product, any person violating this section shall be guilty of a misdemeanor and an unfair or deceptive act or practice, punishable by 6 years in prison under the Federal Trade Commission Act. "

Just joking, you can take it off. Hehehehe.









And you have to in order to place the cool red heat sink.


----------



## skupples

Aquaero is the new Mattress.


----------



## avielcs

Thats what i thought.
Another question, can i heatshrink the resistors or will they heat up to much?


----------



## avielcs

Is the XSPC PWM D5 pump the same as Swiftech's?


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chimaychanga*
> 
> Darlene. Is there any potential risk in powering op my system without testing the mod ?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *avielcs*
> 
> Thats what i thought.
> Another question, can i heatshrink the resistors or will they heat up to much?


I just pretty much always test stuff progressively as I work on it.

Once in a while, I make a petit faux pas and forget to change something I was intending to and power up prematurely, hence I offer the general caution.

You mod looks fine, it should be good to go . . . . . Testing would have given you a little look at how a Zener diode regulates voltage.

The mod shouldn't get hot enough to preclude heatshrinking the area.

Don't get all carried away and do like 3 layers or anything, but one is a very good idea.

Expect some good reports here anytime now . . .

Darlene


----------



## adolf512

i am still not concinced that a pwm d5 will perform wny better than the d5 vario + molex+signal to 3pin adapter ofcourse a pwm controlled d5 will offer more power efficient opationand perform differently but i am still not convinced that it is worth the hassle with the aq6


----------



## chimaychanga

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> I just pretty much always test stuff progressively as I work on it.
> 
> Once in a while, I make a petit faux pas and forget to change something I was intending to and power up prematurely, hence I offer the general caution.
> 
> You mod looks fine, it should be good to go . . . . . Testing would have given you a little look at how a Zener diode regulates voltage.
> 
> The mod shouldn't get hot enough to preclude heatshrinking the area.
> 
> Don't get all carried away and do like 3 layers or anything, but one is a very good idea.
> 
> Expect some good reports here anytime now . . .
> 
> Darlene


Great !!! The pump is controllable now







Thanks a LOT









But why isn't there an indication of the RPM in aquasuite ?


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chimaychanga*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> I just pretty much always test stuff progressively as I work on it.
> 
> Once in a while, I make a petit faux pas and forget to change something I was intending to and power up prematurely, hence I offer the general caution.
> 
> You mod looks fine, it should be good to go . . . . . Testing would have given you a little look at how a Zener diode regulates voltage.
> 
> The mod shouldn't get hot enough to preclude heatshrinking the area.
> 
> Don't get all carried away and do like 3 layers or anything, but one is a very good idea.
> 
> Expect some good reports here anytime now . . .
> 
> Darlene
> 
> 
> 
> Great !!! The pump is controllable now
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks a LOT
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But why isn't there an indication of the RPM in aquasuite ?
Click to expand...

Check the terminal on the wire contact, it should readout just fine.

Did the terminal push out a little when you plugged in, maybe the lock tab needs to be tweaked back so it latches.

D.


----------



## chimaychanga

everything looks intact on the plug

current at 0 ? and voltage stays on 12,1 when i adjust the speed


----------



## IT Diva

You might try swapping it with the fan you're not using, #4.

Set that port to PWM like #3, and then set #3 as a voltage control port like 1 and 2, and see if the rpm reads from a fan at #3.

That will help determine if the A6 is OK all around and maybe it's a bad tach wire on the pump.

I assume this is all set up in your PC and all running on the same PSU.

D.

Current at zero because the mod draws too little current, a few milliamps or so, to count for anything, and the pump gets its power from the PSU, where a voltage controlled fan would get its power from the A6 pins that the Zener and 560 resistor connect to so it could be measured.

In PWM mode, the output stays fixed at 12V.

Do you have an old CPU heatsink fan to use as a tester, like a stock Intel cooler fan?


----------



## chimaychanga

tried port 4 and its still the same... and everything runs from my PSU in the case

yes i have an x79 stock cooler


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chimaychanga*
> 
> tried port 4 and its still the same... and everything runs from my PSU in the case
> 
> yes i have an x79 stock cooler


Did a fan on #3, set to power control like 1 and 2 , read out rpm OK

What fan comes with a socket 2011 CPU.

I'm thinking of the stock Intel cooler/fan that comes boxed with a 1155/1150 CPU.

They are PWM and make handy testers.

D


----------



## chimaychanga

Yes I swapped between port 2 and 3.. pump is still not showing any RPM

Ill try out that stock intel fan and see what it says..

its this one


----------



## chimaychanga

with this fan there is a readout.. so its the pump and not the A6


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chimaychanga*
> 
> Yes I swapped between port 2 and 3.. pump is still not showing any RPM
> 
> Ill try out that stock intel fan and see what it says..
> 
> its this one


If the Intel fan gives an rpm reading on a PWM chan, it must be in the pump or wire.

I forgot about that cooler for the E series. . . you so seldom ever see it.

D.


----------



## chimaychanga

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> If the Intel fan gives an rpm reading on a PWM chan, it must be in the pump or wire.
> 
> I forgot about that cooler for the E series. . . you so seldom ever see it.
> 
> D.


I actually bought it separately for testing of DOAs prior to watercooling all my components

So whats next







any ideas ?

i guess ill have to do the mod with an extension cable to see if the pump is faulty ?


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chimaychanga*
> 
> with this fan there is a readout.. so its the pump and not the A6


At least you can control the pump now, and you know the A6 is OK.

You can troubleshoot the blue wire whenever you decide to.

You might as the Swiftech rep, BramSLI1 if he can help, if you don't sleuth it out yourself.

D.


----------



## chimaychanga

Ok. Its getting late here.. ill give it try again tomorrow. Thanks again for all your help


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chimaychanga*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> If the Intel fan gives an rpm reading on a PWM chan, it must be in the pump or wire.
> 
> I forgot about that cooler for the E series. . . you so seldom ever see it.
> 
> D.
> 
> 
> 
> I actually bought it separately for testing of DOAs prior to watercooling all my components
> 
> So whats next
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> any ideas ?
> 
> i guess ill have to do the mod with an extension cable to see if the pump is faulty ?
Click to expand...

If it were me, I'd pop the back off the pump and check the blue wire from pump pcb to pin for continuity with a multimeter. . . . .

But you don't have a lot of equipment at you disposal yet.

Did it give an rpm readout before you could control it . . . . (before starting the mod)

There's nothing the mod could do electrically to effect the tach signal, except to break the wire or something from pulling it out of the connector or something similar of a physical nature.

D.


----------



## chimaychanga

I actually had a reading of the RPM in the ASUS AI suite.. but for some reason the other day before modding it I couldnt get an RPM signal also

and popping the cap on the pump means emptying the loop once again









Ill dig deeper in to it tomorrow..


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chimaychanga*
> 
> I actually had a reading of the RPM in the ASUS AI suite.. *but for some reason the other day before modding it I couldnt get an RPM signal also
> *
> and popping the cap on the pump means emptying the loop once again
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ill dig deeper in to it tomorrow..


That looks like your answer . . . . .

If you take the pump out maybe you can take it to school to check the wire and show off your mod.









D


----------



## chimaychanga

Thats a great idea









Goodnight Darlene


----------



## kpoeticg

So i didn't bother posting about the ribbon cable i received this morning, since it's not working yet. The Plug & Socket on the cable fit perfectly on the Aquaero's headers, but the lcd isn't powering on.

Not sure yet if this is because i went with the 1' cable, still gonna test a bit by moving one one of the connectors further down the ribbon cable

I still need to test all the connections for continuity, but considering they sent this 1' ribbon cable in a box that could ship a motherboard with insane packaging (that ended up costing 6x the price of the cable), i doubt i'm gonna find any issue's with the cable itself

I'm wondering if any one or combination of the 24pins need to modded to boost the signal. Also wondering if @Shoggy might be feeling generous enough to shed some light on which pins/solder points those might be.

Just a reminder that what i'm trying to do is split the main pcb from the lcd by connecting them with a ribbon cable instead of plugging them right into each other


----------



## Shoggy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> Just a reminder that what i'm trying to do is split the main pcb from the lcd by connecting them with a ribbon cable instead of plugging them right into each other


That does not really work since even a short cable can already bring up so much communication errors on the line that the display will not work any more. In the airplex GIGANT we also have to split the display and main controller and only use a shielded cable with about 20 cm. I have no idea which length you need but every centimeter in addition will raise the risk that it does not work anymore.


----------



## chimaychanga

what wire gauge should i use to make the mod on to an extension cable ?


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chimaychanga*
> 
> what wire gauge should i use to make the mod on to an extension cable ?


I'd suggest 22 or 24.

20 or larger is bigger and heavier than you'll need, (and gets hard to get in the connectors) while 26 and smaller is rather flimsy and is prone to breakage at the connectors when you don't have the uber-expensive crimping machines.

Darlene


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> So i didn't bother posting about the ribbon cable i received this morning, since it's not working yet. The Plug & Socket on the cable fit perfectly on the Aquaero's headers, but the lcd isn't powering on.
> 
> Not sure yet if this is because i went with the 1' cable, still gonna test a bit by moving one one of the connectors further down the ribbon cable
> 
> I still need to test all the connections for continuity, but considering they sent this 1' ribbon cable in a box that could ship a motherboard with insane packaging (that ended up costing 6x the price of the cable), i doubt i'm gonna find any issue's with the cable itself
> 
> I'm wondering if any one or combination of the 24pins need to modded to boost the signal. Also wondering if @Shoggy
> might be feeling generous enough to shed some light on which pins/solder points those might be.
> 
> Just a reminder that what i'm trying to do is split the main pcb from the lcd by connecting them with a ribbon cable instead of plugging them right into each other


Be sure to continuity test a corner pin at one end, to be sure which corner pin it mates to at the other end, so you are sure of getting the display to pcb alignment correct.

It's possible that one end's connector may need to be flipped to get it to align as you need it to..

D.


----------



## chimaychanga

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> I'd suggest 22 or 24.
> 
> 20 or larger is bigger and heavier than you'll need, (and gets hard to get in the connectors) while 26 and smaller is rather flimsy and is prone to breakage at the connectors when you don't have the uber-expensive crimping machines.
> 
> Darlene


Aight.. I own a mulitmeter now









now i gotta figure out where i can get the male and female rpm connectors


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chimaychanga*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> I'd suggest 22 or 24.
> 
> 20 or larger is bigger and heavier than you'll need, (and gets hard to get in the connectors) while 26 and smaller is rather flimsy and is prone to breakage at the connectors when you don't have the uber-expensive crimping machines.
> 
> Darlene
> 
> 
> 
> Aight.. I own a mulitmeter now
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> now i gotta figure out where i can get the male and female rpm connectors
Click to expand...

Where are you located, pretty likely someone here knows a source available to you.

D.


----------



## chimaychanga

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Where are you located, pretty likely someone here knows a source available to you.
> 
> D.


Im from Denmark..pretty sure there aren't any others









Well any PC supplier of course have these as cable extensions. But I just want the connectors themselves.
I do have an electronic accessories shop close to me.. ill head over there after school


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chimaychanga*
> 
> Im from Denmark..pretty sure there aren't any others
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Well any PC supplier of course have these as cable extensions. But I just want the connectors themselves.
> I do have an electronic accessories shop close to me.. ill head over there after school


There are loads of Danish PC modders. You must look further than your nose









I think the cheapest place to get those male fan pins in Europe is http://www.modding.bit-tech.pl/sklep/en/pins/385-fan-terminal-male-.html it's about half a Danish Krone each. But to crimp them you need a tool, that at the cheapest is 300 Krone. Or a very small needle nosed pliers and good eyes


----------



## shakurass

New Aquaero 6 PRO owner here. I removed the screen so that I can mount it internally similar to the old Aquaero 5 LT. Has anyone tried this before and have any insight? Waiting on parts to come in before I can fill the loop and actually boot the system but I am excited to start playing around with the software!


----------



## kpoeticg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> That does not really work since even a short cable can already bring up so much communication errors on the line that the display will not work any more. In the airplex GIGANT we also have to split the display and main controller and only use a shielded cable with about 20 cm. I have no idea which length you need but every centimeter in addition will raise the risk that it does not work anymore.


Damn, wish i thought of a shielded cable. Figured the screen was low-res enough that it wouldn't be a big issue

I just grabbed the 1' cable because they only offered it in 3", 6", & 1'. It's not hard to move the connector further down. I really don't plan on extending the screen very far. I just want the screen on the front of the drive cage with the pcb on the side of it because i have a 360 running along the bottom of the bay. So even if i can get 10-15cm out of it, i should be good.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Be sure to continuity test a corner pin at one end, to be sure which corner pin it mates to at the other end, so you are sure of getting the display to pcb alignment correct.
> 
> It's possible that one end's connector may need to be flipped to get it to align as you need it to..
> 
> D.


Yeah i'm gonna test it today. I didn't wanna just flip the cable to what looked the wrong way, and risk shorting it out. I'm gonna test for continuity and then try shortening the cable

Thanx both of you for the help









Edit: So, my MM's prongs aren't thin enough to fit in the female sockets of the ribbon assembly. So i had to plug the pcb into the female end and test from the solder points to the male pins of the ribbon cable.

Strangely enough, the top right solder pad goes to the bottom right pin. And the bottom right solder pad goes to the top right pin

Now if i was plugging it in the wrong way, it would be top-right to bottom-left correct? Now i'm confused









Edit x2: Lol, i pulled the female connector off to flip it around. Those suckers were really in there


----------



## gdubc

Thank you Darlene for all the work you put in on your experiments as well as this thread startup.
Can I join? These are the 5lts but my 6xt will get here tomorrow, finally!


----------



## chimaychanga

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> There are loads of Danish PC modders. You must look further than your nose
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I think the cheapest place to get those male fan pins in Europe is http://www.modding.bit-tech.pl/sklep/en/pins/385-fan-terminal-male-.html it's about half a Danish Krone each. But to crimp them you need a tool, that at the cheapest is 300 Krone. Or a very small needle nosed pliers and good eyes


I actually just meant in this A6 forum








and I dont need fan terminals but the RPM male and female connectors. I usually get my supplies from Nils @ MDPC-X but he hasnt got them


----------



## kpoeticg

What do you mean by "you don't need fan terminals, but the rpm male and female connectors"?

You need fan connectors or you need fan terminals? Connectors are the plastic housing and terminals are the metal pins

How could you need an rpm connector but not a fan connector?


----------



## chimaychanga

lawl.. cuz i already have em. I just need the 4 pin "housings" then


----------



## kpoeticg

Ahhh, i think you meant you need a "PWM" connector. 4Pin fan connectors are called pwm connectors sometimes.


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chimaychanga*
> 
> I actually just meant in this A6 forum
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and I dont need fan terminals but the RPM male and female connectors. I usually get my supplies from Nils @ MDPC-X but he hasnt got them


Ah, my mistake then. This thread is young yet









I normally get stuff from Nils too, but as you say, he only has 3-pin connectors now. He used to sell all kinds of pins and stuff, but he cut down his selection. After that I shopped with Eric at ModDIY, but it's in Hong Kong, so shipping is slow and sometimes have to pay tax. Recently I discovered modding.bit-tech.pl which is cheap and nearby and a good range of connectors, pins and screws and things. So that's why I suggest it









So it's this you mean? http://www.modding.bit-tech.pl/sklep/en/black-connector/38-wtyczka-wentylatora-4-pin.html


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chimaychanga*
> 
> I actually just meant in this A6 forum
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and I dont need fan terminals but the RPM male and female connectors. I usually get my supplies from Nils @ MDPC-X but he hasnt got them


I could have sworn that this morning he had only 3-pin housing, but now suddenly I see 4-pin housings. Old age getting to me.
http://en.mdpc-x.com/mdpc-crimping/4-pin-molex-black-housing.htm


----------



## Marscorpion

Has anyone tried XSPC Laing D5 PWM Vario, or EK-D5 PWM Motor sold by EK with Aquaero 6 ?
Have They the same problems as Swiftech D5 ?


----------



## chimaychanga

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> Ah, my mistake then. This thread is young yet tongue.gif
> 
> I normally get stuff from Nils too, but as you say, he only has 3-pin connectors now. He used to sell all kinds of pins and stuff, but he cut down his selection. After that I shopped with Eric at ModDIY, but it's in Hong Kong, so shipping is slow and sometimes have to pay tax. Recently I discovered modding.bit-tech.pl which is cheap and nearby and a good range of connectors, pins and screws and things. So that's why I suggest it smile.gif
> 
> So it's this you mean? http://www.modding.bit-tech.pl/sklep/en/black-connector/38-wtyczka-wentylatora-4-pin.html
> 
> I could have sworn that this morning he had only 3-pin housing, but now suddenly I see 4-pin housings. Old age getting to me.
> http://en.mdpc-x.com/mdpc-crimping/4-pin-molex-black-housing.htm


Yes. Nils has these housings in female but I need the male ones also in order to make an extension cable.
What about E22 they have alot of accessories.. any experience with them ?


----------



## kpoeticg

The male shielded connectors can be harder to find sometimes. They're not actually part of the same Molex series as the rest of the fan connectors and terminals. Search for them as "PWM Shielded Connectors" and you should find them. Make sure you grab the pins too when you get the connectors. The official male fan connectors are only made in the non-shielded style that you solder to the wire


----------



## chimaychanga

Ok thanks for the info..

btw. ive got a multimeter now.. how much do i put it on to make my readout ?







20V ?


----------



## kpoeticg

The V __ --- to the left of the off switch is DC Voltage. The ~ to the right is AC Voltage. You want DC. What you're measuring is under 20V, so dial it the the 20 on the left of the OFF


----------



## chimaychanga

hmm i dont quite get whats going on. if i measure some points on the terminals the fan start speeding up ?

and why do get a negative readout ?


----------



## kpoeticg

If you get a negative readout, you're probly mixing up Ground & +V. Try switching the prongs.

Dunno why the fan speeds up, maybe you're accidentally jumping 2 pins together with one prong?


----------



## chimaychanga

the pump speeds up when i put the gnd prong on the green wire and the other on the blue and it shows 0.05

if i put + on blue wire and gnd on the last pin pump speeds up to max and shows 0.20


----------



## kpoeticg

If i understand correctly what Darlene told you to test....

Power up the pump with just Ground on the first pin (probly black wire) and +12v on the 2nd pin next to ground. Not plugging in pin 3 & 4.

Then when you power up the pump, measure the V between Ground with your Black Prong and Pin 4 with your Red Prong. Should be +5V if you did it correctly


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chimaychanga*
> 
> the pump speeds up when i put the gnd prong on the green wire and the other on the blue and it shows 0.05
> 
> if i put + on blue wire and gnd on the last pin pump speeds up to max and shows 0.20


Part of having a multimeter is knowing what your circuit is supposed to be doing, and what kind of voltages are present at various locations.

Knowing how your meter can sometimes effect the circuit is also important.

Think of the multimeter as a high resistance connection.

If you try to measure from the +12 pin to the PWM pin, green wire, it's going to add a little more voltage to the PWM control and the pump may speed up.

The blue wire is the tach, (rpm) signal, it has an internal resistor in the A6 that pulls it up to 3.3 or 5V.

Measuring between it and the PWM, green wire, may speed the pump up.

If you put the gnd probe on the 1st pin, and the + probe on the 2nd pin, it'll show 12V . . . . move the + probe to where the diode and 2 resistors connect, it'll show 5V.

Darlene


----------



## chimaychanga

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Part of having a multimeter is knowing what your circuit is supposed to be doing, and what kind of voltages are present at various locations.
> 
> Knowing how your meter can sometimes effect the circuit is also important.
> 
> Think of the multimeter as a high resistance connection.
> 
> If you try to measure from the +12 pin to the PWM pin, green wire, it's going to add a little more voltage to the PWM control and the pump may speed up.
> 
> The blue wire is the tach, (rpm) signal, it has an internal resistor in the A6 that pulls it up to 3.3 or 5V.
> 
> Measuring between it and the PWM, green wire, may speed the pump up.
> 
> If you put the gnd probe on the 1st pin, and the + probe on the 2nd pin, it'll show 12V . . . . move the + probe to where the diode and 2 resistors connect, it'll show 5V.
> 
> Darlene


either my multimeter is faulty or im doing it wrong..

let me get this straight.. 1st pin is where the zener diode is right ? cuz i cant get 12V in any direction i try


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chimaychanga*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Part of having a multimeter is knowing what your circuit is supposed to be doing, and what kind of voltages are present at various locations.
> 
> Knowing how your meter can sometimes effect the circuit is also important.
> 
> Think of the multimeter as a high resistance connection.
> 
> If you try to measure from the +12 pin to the PWM pin, green wire, it's going to add a little more voltage to the PWM control and the pump may speed up.
> 
> The blue wire is the tach, (rpm) signal, it has an internal resistor in the A6 that pulls it up to 3.3 or 5V.
> 
> Measuring between it and the PWM, green wire, may speed the pump up.
> 
> If you put the gnd probe on the 1st pin, and the + probe on the 2nd pin, it'll show 12V . . . . move the + probe to where the diode and 2 resistors connect, it'll show 5V.
> 
> Darlene
> 
> 
> 
> either my multimeter is faulty or im doing it wrong..
> 
> let me get this straight.. *1st pin is where the zener diode is right ?* cuz i cant get 12V in any direction i try
Click to expand...

Yes,

Black probe on first pin, red probe on second pin should show 12V.


----------



## Cheesehead

Long time lurker....first time poster. Add me please to the aquaero 6xt list. Just did a major upgrade with more work to follow. Sleeving I think is my next major task. Thanks for looking..





Aquaero 6xt
Aquacomputer FlowMeter G1/4 USB ver *2
Aquacomputer Pump/Reservoir Combo *2

Ek LTX CPU waterblock
EK Monarch RamBlock
Ek R9-290x Actel *2
Ek CoolStream PE 360 Triple *4
Ek Fittings

CoolerMaster Haf Stacker 935
CoolerMaster Haf Stacker 915F*2


----------



## IT Diva

Little Update on the Corsair Fans saga . . . .

18 PWM Corsair SP120's on a single Aquaero 6 PWM channel working perfectly, with the capability for more.

The little "Diva "Dapter" PCB is a gem.

These fans have a min speed of about 840 to 850 rpm, and maxed out at over 2600, but they are stacked 3 high, so there's some boost effect going on there . . . otherwise they max about 2300rpm.

I found the min speed at 50% pulse width, while the fans just hold that speed as you go below 50%. . . So I set min to 50% and max to 100% in "fans".

They have a nice ramp up as you increase the pulse width, maintaining an increase with each 1% increase, even from 97% to 98% to 99%.

The scope shows the pulse shape at the A6 to stay just like it should, and the pulse shape from the PCB stays clean and square as well.

Here's the pics:

All 18 fans under test:



A little closer view:



Close up of the Diva 'Dapter PCB:

The rightmost channel is set up for a D5 pump, while the first 3 are setup for Corsair PWM fans.



Here's the scope at 98%, a very clean pulse . . . A6 on top and PCB output to fan below.



At 99%, the A6 isn't quite as clean, the off time voltage doesn't quite drop to 0V, but the PCB is still looking good:



And a shot of Aquasuite at near max:



Here's how it all looks at min speed at 50%:

Aquasuite settings:



Aquaero display:



And the nice clean pulse shapes on the scope:



I also had some more parts come in and I did a little revision to the PCB to use mosfets in place of the bipolar transistors to get a slightly crisper pulse shape with a couple microseconds less switch lag.

This particular PCB will be going out to the real world for testing running multiple fan channels and a D5 shortly.

Darlene


----------



## IT Diva

Cheesehead added to the Owners' List
















D.


----------



## VSG

Looks great! Did you daisy chain the Swiftech splitters?


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Looks great! Did you daisy chain the Swiftech splitters?


They are out of stock everywhere that will ship here . . .

So I got a bunch Akasa triple splitters.

You can see them plugged into the swiftech and a bunch of molexs along the top into some DIY molex splitters.

Enlarge the 1st pic to see them.

Darlene


----------



## IT Diva

Here's the "new" PCB with mosfet switching and jumper selectable setup on each channel for D5 pump or Corsair fans.



I made a small revision which I'll make up for the weekend to use smaller mosfets which have a different pinout.

Looking at the scope, shows the advantage of the mosfets.

The first pic is 99% pulse width with the PCB in the last post using bipolar transistors, while the second pic is 99% pulse width with the new PCB with mosfets





Now if we can just get AC to make a nice version of it to make the A6 much more accommodating, and then they wouldn't even have to change the internal protective resistors or revise it.
















Darlene


----------



## gdubc

If not, you will have people lined up to get their hands on your double ds.

(Diva Dapters of course, shame on you all)

Just had another thought. Put a fancy cover on them and call them "dapper diva dapters". Man I gotta get some sleep...


----------



## TATH

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cheesehead*
> 
> Long time lurker....first time poster. Add me please to the aquaero 6xt list. Just did a major upgrade with more work to follow. Sleeving I think is my next major task. Thanks for looking..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Aquaero 6xt
> Aquacomputer FlowMeter G1/4 USB ver *2
> Aquacomputer Pump/Reservoir Combo *2
> 
> Ek LTX CPU waterblock
> EK Monarch RamBlock
> Ek R9-290x Actel *2
> Ek CoolStream PE 360 Triple *4
> Ek Fittings
> 
> CoolerMaster Haf Stacker 935
> CoolerMaster Haf Stacker 915F*2


Nice Colors "jamie jamie". "put a spoiler at the pictures this evening\ internet restriction over here"


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gdubc*
> 
> If not, you will have people lined up to get their hands on your double ds.
> 
> (Diva Dapters of course, shame on you all)
> 
> Just had another thought. Put a fancy cover on them and call them "dapper diva dapters". Man I gotta get some sleep...












Shame on me indeed! Here's hoping Darlene forgives me for this







...


----------



## kpoeticg

LOL


----------



## chimaychanga

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Yes,
> 
> Black probe on first pin, red probe on second pin should show 12V.


Could it be because im not using the right zener diode ?
Its written ZPD5V1 on it.. is that correct ?


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chimaychanga*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Yes,
> 
> Black probe on first pin, red probe on second pin should show 12V.
> 
> 
> 
> Could it be because im not using the right zener diode ?
> Its written ZPD5V1 on it.. is that correct ?
Click to expand...

The Zener diode is fine.

You might want to check inside the meter and be sure the little safety fuse isn't blown.

Did you try measuring the voltage of a battery of some kind to be sure the meter is working OK?

D.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *gdubc*
> 
> If not, you will have people lined up to get their hands on your double ds.
> 
> (Diva Dapters of course, shame on you all)
> 
> Just had another thought. Put a fancy cover on them and call them "dapper diva dapters". Man I gotta get some sleep...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Shame on me indeed! Here's hoping Darlene forgives me for this
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ...
Click to expand...

I shoulda seen that coming . . . . . .

I think it's hilarious
















Wonder if I could trade mark it, lol

Darlene


----------



## chimaychanga

think the meter is OK.. i did manage in some point to get 12V depending on where on the terminals i placed the probes

I preformed a second attempt with modding the pump cable and still no luck on reading the RPM








I guess there must be a loose connection on the pcb.. isnt it possibe to measure the tac cable without taking the pump out ?


----------



## chimaychanga

I popped the cap on the pump and cant see any loose ends on the pcb
How do i measure the wire ?


----------



## kpoeticg

You need to test for continuity between the rpm solder pad and the pin at the end of the wire. Or even between the solder pad on the pump and the solder pad on the Aquaero if you have them plugged to each other.

My meter's a little different, i don't have to choose the value's before i measure. But i'd try maybe 2000 ohms or 200 ohms on the dial. Ohms are the 2nd section to the left of OFF. That little Omega symbol


----------



## chimaychanga

how can i test it if nothing is powered up ? you need to school me here.. how about one of your famous architectural drawings


----------



## kpoeticg

Because you're not testing for Voltage. Your testing resistance for continuity in the signal. So if you have them plugged into each other, the meter should be able to send a signal from the solder pad on the pump to the solder pad on the aquero.

My "Resistance/Ohms" selection on my Meter gives me the option of it making a beep when i'm testing for continuity instead of resistance.

It's easier when you don't need to stare at the meter. But you should see something come up on the screen if there's no break in the wire


----------



## chimaychanga

so i need to dial the nob to ohm on 20 ? and how much should it indicate on the meter ?

measuring from pcb to terminal on the cable with 200ohm i get 2,3 and sometimes lower


----------



## kpoeticg

I don't see a 20 on there. I see 200, 2000, 20k....

I'd dial it to 2000 probly. It doesn't matter what it shows on the lcd, as long as it gives a reading. You're testing for continuity, not ohms, so the actual measurement doesn't matter.

For instance, if you test it from the solder pad on your pump to the light bulb in your lamp, it won't give a reading because they're not connected. If the wire isn't broken, it'll read something, if the wire's broken, it won't


----------



## chimaychanga

sorry i meant 200.. but i do get a readout no matter what. So what does this conclude if im not getting a rpm readout on the aquaero nor the fan header on the mobo


----------



## kpoeticg

What are you testing? Solder pad on pump => solder pad on aquero?


----------



## chimaychanga

solder pad to terminal on cable end


----------



## kpoeticg

Make sure the Aquaero's powered off. Plug the pump into the aquero and test from solder pad => solder pad

Troubleshooting's really all about checking things off the list.

I don't have a D5, so haven't had a reason to go very deep into the DD's







, but i don't think the rpm pin was part of the mod IIRC. So you should have a signal from pad => pad


----------



## chimaychanga

solder pad on A6 is behind the front panel or how ?


----------



## kpoeticg

The solder pads for the fan headers (and all the headers) are directly on the opposite side of the pcb. Since the fan headers are at the bottom of the pcb, you can still access them with the prongs.

Put your aquaero on a table, turn it upside down so the fan headers are at the top and the molex power's at the bottom and you should see all the fan solder pads


----------



## chimaychanga

OK. Same readout as before.. now what


----------



## kpoeticg

Well now we know that your connection is perfectly fine.

Just to double check, you were definitely checking the correct wire right? Pin 3


----------



## chimaychanga

lawl yes.. the tac wire (blue) ??


----------



## kpoeticg

I don't have the pump, so don't know the color codes. Either blue or green. If your 4th wire is green then it's the blue one. If the 4th wire is blue you need the green one. 2nd from the last


----------



## chimaychanga

check ! 3rd pin is the blue wire


----------



## kpoeticg

Well it seems your connection is perfectly sound. Problem is either with the Aquaero, D5, or Aquasuite.

Troubleshooting is fun right?









I'm sure Darlene would be alot more helpful than me.

Have you tested the pump's rpm readout on any other fan controller, or anything that can read rpm's? It would be good to know if the pump's not sending the signal for some reason

You should be good to put the pump back together for now and put your Meter away. Your connections seem fine


----------



## chimaychanga

DD and I were playing around the other day with my stock intel cpu fan and everything was good in every way








So ive got no clue where to go now.. There has to be something wrong with the pump or tac cable cuz theres definitely nothing wrong with the A6


----------



## kpoeticg

Well the Tac cable seems to be fine. Sounds like the Aquaero and Aquasuite are fine...

It sounds to me like the issue has to be with the D5. Are you sure that the D5 is actually spinning when you're powering it? Can you see the coolant flowing through your system?


----------



## chimaychanga

Indeed ! I can control, see and hear it working. Only issue is the RPM readout


----------



## kpoeticg

Ok, well we've checked the tach cable off the list as far as i can tell. Sounds like you and Darlene have checked the Aquaero and Aquasuite off the list.

The problem seems like it has to be with the D5's RPM Sensor. I've never owned a D5, so i don't think i can offer anymore help here. I'd wait for Darlene to catch up with this convo.

Now that you've tested from pad => pad, it might be worth it to try running the pump through the Aquaero again. That really depends on how much work that will mean for you to put the top back on and run your loop.

If it means refilling & then draining again when Darlene's around, i'd just wait. If you're using QDC's or Mini-Valve's it might be worth a shot

But sometimes little things like taking it apart and dbl checking everything can fix the issue, if the issue was something like the pin on the fan header being loose or something small like that.


----------



## chimaychanga

This pump is starting to piss me off.. lets see if Darlene can sort this out. If not.. ill be getting the AquaComputer D5 instead.

Thanks for all your help though


----------



## kpoeticg

Np. Sorry i couldn't offer more. Hope you get this sorted out









Also, you've probly already done this, but dbl check that the insulation on your rpm wire is covering any area's that the resistors or zener diode could be causing a short circuit.


----------



## chimaychanga

yes i did so.

Problem occurred even before the mod.. actually the RPM signal did work to begin with. Something weird just happened along the way


----------



## kpoeticg

Oh, then it definitely sounds like an issue with the rpm sensor. If you're lucky, maybe it could be a trace on the pcb that can be cleaned or repaired.

Had you already voided the warranty before doing the mod? It sounds like something that could be (or coulda been) RMA worthy


----------



## chimaychanga

havent touched the pump besides the cable mod and doing the sleeving


----------



## kpoeticg

If you didn't break any tamper-proof stickers, maybe you should rma it.

If this happened before the mod, and just during normal operation, it really narrows things down.


----------



## chimaychanga

well if Darlene cant come up with anything i probably will contact Swiftech


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chimaychanga*
> 
> well if Darlene cant come up with anything i probably will contact Swiftech


Been a longggg day at work today, and just caught up.

It does indeed look like the pump is the issue.

BramSLI1 is the Swiftech rep here on the boards, I'd shoot him a PM.

If you had mentioned that you had lost the tach signal while you still had it on the CPU header, I'd have run you thru checking to see if it was a broken solder connection for the blue wire first.

That would have given you more option to RMA the pump right off before the PWM option.

Hopefully, the Swiftech rep can help out, since it's just the tach signal and it stopped working before the cable mod.

Something else to check on though . . . . .

Take a magnifying glass and a good bright light, and look closely at the blue wire were it's soldered to the PCB, right by that transistor, Q4.

Be sure that it isn't touching anything else, and that the 3 terminals of the transistor seem to be soldered OK.

I had a PWM D5 not long ago that had been fine for a while, and then stopped controlling properly . . . .

Opened it up, and where the green wire soldered to the PCB, it was poorly soldered and touching the diode, D2, or D3, right next to the green wire's solder pad.

In that case, I unsoldered the green wire, trimmed the end and resoldered it and it's been fine ever since.

That's the last possible thing I can think of that's DIY fixable.

If that's not it, PM Bram.

Darlene


----------



## Kimir

Received my Caselabs today, started to drop in what I already have inside, including the Aquaero.
I think I need the black front bezel for it now









@IT Diva, not planning to use the google form and spreadsheet, I can ditch them?
Oh and figured I can sync up the files to my PC, so _I CAN_ send them to you.


----------



## Jakusonfire

I seriously can't believe they didn't make the black face plate the standard for the new 6 model. Does anybody use the silver anymore? Its a bit annoying and rubs me the wrong way as it seems like pricing higher by stealth. Even XSPC include silver and black face plates.
When I got my Aquaero 5 pro the black face plate was not stocked and I had to special order it at extra cost. I imagine I'm not alone in that.


----------



## Kimir

Kinda agree with you, I mean, do we even still have beige or white dvd/Blu-ray drive? I haven't seen any in a while, they are all black. They could have put the silver and white as an option then.


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> I just grabbed the 1' cable because they only offered it in 3", 6", & 1'. It's not hard to move the connector further down. I really don't plan on extending the screen very far. I just want the screen on the front of the drive cage with the pcb on the side of it because i have a 360 running along the bottom of the bay. So even if i can get 10-15cm out of it, i should be good.


Did you get any further with this? Curious if you managed to shorten the ribbon cable


----------



## kpoeticg

Dunno if you remember the pic i showed of all the pins stuck in the cable. I broke a blade off one of the pins when i was taking them out. I tried like hell to find just the pins on Digikey, but i think i'm gonna have to order another connector. Those pins are really fragile =\

I considered sticking like the metal pin of a breadboard jumper wire through the side of the wire that doesn't have a blade, i've had alot to distract me lately tho so haven't tried it



One of the blades of one of the pins decided to stay inside the wire rather than the tweezers =\


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> i think i'm gonna have to order another connector. Those pins are really fragile =\


Okay, thanks for the info. I'm struggling to fit my AQ5 in my SFF case, and could really help if I could separate the screen from the board. Otherwise I suppose I will just run it as an LT.


----------



## kpoeticg

Space issue's is the reason i wanna do the mod too









I'll definitely end up finishing the mod and reporting back here. Just gotta order the connector. I've had alot on my plate with this build lately, includinI'g a cpl memory ic's popping off my Trident-X's the other day when i was going to install the EK Monarch's

I'll tag your nick next time i have an update about it


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> I'll tag your nick next time i have an update about it


Woo!


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> I seriously can't believe they didn't make the black face plate the standard for the new 6 model. Does anybody use the silver anymore? Its a bit annoying and rubs me the wrong way as it seems like pricing higher by stealth. Even XSPC include silver and black face plates.
> When I got my Aquaero 5 pro the black face plate was not stocked and I had to special order it at extra cost. I imagine I'm not alone in that.


Stainless steal is kinda Aquacomputers thing...


----------



## jakstak

Hi








Had my AQ6 around a month or so now, Really happy with it


----------



## skupples

Anyone have any recommendations on how to paint my stock Aquaero face plate? I'm thinking about painting it white to match the STH-10.

same ol' process? Sand, light paint, sand... It is just so tiny & delicate. I would like to preserve the branding, but that might be a pita.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> Anyone have any recommendations on how to paint my stock Aquaero face plate? I'm thinking about painting it white to match the STH-10.
> 
> same ol' process? Sand, light paint, sand... It is just so tiny & delicate. I would like to preserve the branding, but that might be a pita.


Hi build primer,sand it back as the etching will need to be filled then top coat in your colour.

My XT5 with the faceplate mod.


----------



## Panther Al

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> Anyone have any recommendations on how to paint my stock Aquaero face plate? I'm thinking about painting it white to match the STH-10.
> 
> same ol' process? Sand, light paint, sand... It is just so tiny & delicate. I would like to preserve the branding, but that might be a pita.


Might think about scanning the plate at 1 to 1, and then taking the scan into photoshop, and wiping out everything but the branding and the like. At that point, arrange - I am not sure where as I no longer have one of these printers myself - to have it printed on a decal printer, and like those model kits of years ago, once you paint the plate, soak and slide the decal on, and seal?

Just a thought.


----------



## liberato87

nice thread!
subbed!


----------



## whyscotty

May I - Aqua 5 Pro

https://imageshack.com/i/mhjk4hj


----------



## IT Diva

New folks added to the Owners List . . . . .









Like the mods guys.

Darlene


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> Anyone have any recommendations on how to paint my stock Aquaero face plate? I'm thinking about painting it white to match the STH-10.
> 
> same ol' process? Sand, light paint, sand... It is just so tiny & delicate. I would like to preserve the branding, but that might be a pita.


Why not wait until you have a chance to see how the stainless steel looks in the white case, would suck to do something you can't take back.

D.


----------



## gdubc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Why not wait until you have a chance to see how the stainless steel looks in the white case, would suck to do something you can't take back.
> 
> D.


That's why I went ahead and got a couple spares! You could just have someone scan your original and print out a new one on a 3d printer. That would probably be a pretty inexpensive option anyhow.


----------



## chimaychanga

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Been a longggg day at work today, and just caught up.
> 
> It does indeed look like the pump is the issue.
> 
> BramSLI1 is the Swiftech rep here on the boards, I'd shoot him a PM.
> 
> If you had mentioned that you had lost the tach signal while you still had it on the CPU header, I'd have run you thru checking to see if it was a broken solder connection for the blue wire first.
> 
> That would have given you more option to RMA the pump right off before the PWM option.
> 
> Hopefully, the Swiftech rep can help out, since it's just the tach signal and it stopped working before the cable mod.
> 
> Something else to check on though . . . . .
> 
> Take a magnifying glass and a good bright light, and look closely at the blue wire were it's soldered to the PCB, right by that transistor, Q4.
> 
> Be sure that it isn't touching anything else, and that the 3 terminals of the transistor seem to be soldered OK.
> 
> I had a PWM D5 not long ago that had been fine for a while, and then stopped controlling properly . . . .
> 
> Opened it up, and where the green wire soldered to the PCB, it was poorly soldered and touching the diode, D2, or D3, right next to the green wire's solder pad.
> 
> In that case, I unsoldered the green wire, trimmed the end and resoldered it and it's been fine ever since.
> 
> That's the last possible thing I can think of that's DIY fixable.
> 
> If that's not it, PM Bram.
> 
> Darlene


OK. It kinda looked like the soldering on the PCB was touching the D4 diode so I trimmed and re soldered the wire again. Hooked everything up, refilled the coolant.. and still the same







no RPM signal. I just PMed Bram and hopefully he will know what to do next


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gdubc*
> 
> That's why I went ahead and got a couple spares! You could just have someone scan your original and print out a new one on a 3d printer. That would probably be a pretty inexpensive option anyhow.


Those could be pretty damned ugly depending on the quality of the printer though.

I have two. The stock, and the black.


----------



## IT Diva

The final version of my "Diva 'Dapter" PCB, . . . .

Has some small revisions to use smaller mosfets and position the test points for easier scope probe connection.

The jumpers can select between no pullup for use with Corsair fans, weak pullups and strong pullups for PWM D5's.

Darlene


----------



## ngzb

Good work Darlene


----------



## MeanBruce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> Those could be pretty damned ugly depending on the quality of the printer though.
> 
> I have two. The stock, and the black.


If you want my stock stainless faceplate to experiment with or for a spare just let me know I'll place it in a bubble envelope and send it to you, shipping costs 59cents, don't worry about it.









In fact if you ask around I'm certain you'll find a dozen Aquaero 6 owners who would easily give away their stock faceplate to those who need them, mine will just sit in the box forever so you are welcome to it Skupples.

Darlene could arrange a faceplate free exchange network, hahaha.


----------



## adamcobabe

Haha, good idea MeanBruce. If anyone else has a superfluous stock Aquaero 6 *Pro* faceplate, I would love to take it off your hands.


----------



## frunction

I recently installed an Aqueros 5 LT with a MPC35X pump. Couple of questions:

The pump is powered by the power supply, and the control is plugged into the 4th channel (PWM) of the Aquaeros. When connected, the fan control works fine, but the pump is reverse. If I raise the power in Aquasuite the RPM's decrease and vice versa. Has anyone else had this issue? Should I just switch the 3/4 wires in the connector?

Also, I bought a poweramp, but I didn't see how to use it with the MPC35X pump.


----------



## TATH

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> The final version of my "Diva 'Dapter" PCB, . . . .
> 
> Has some small revisions to use smaller mosfets and position the test points for easier scope probe connection.
> 
> The jumpers can select between no pullup for use with Corsair fans, weak pullups and strong pullups for PWM D5's.
> 
> Darlene
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Just a case to put it in "name on it" and into production with it.

Excellent work.


----------



## chimaychanga

anyone here have the AquaComputer D5 pump in combination with the Aquaero ?


----------



## TATH

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chimaychanga*
> 
> anyone here have the AquaComputer D5 pump in combination with the Aquaero ?


Dont know but i have D5 with usb 4 x and 2 without usb. why you ask


----------



## JottaD

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chimaychanga*
> 
> anyone here have the AquaComputer D5 pump in combination with the Aquaero ?


in the end of the week I will have it,

what do you need?


----------



## chimaychanga

I would just like to get some insight of the pump.. as my Swiftech D5 is giving me a hard time with the A6


----------



## TATH

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chimaychanga*
> 
> I would just like to get some insight of the pump.. as my Swiftech D5 is giving me a hard time.


oke


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *frunction*
> 
> I recently installed an Aqueros 5 LT with a MPC35X pump. Couple of questions:
> 
> The pump is powered by the power supply, and the control is plugged into the 4th channel (PWM) of the Aquaeros. When connected, the fan control works fine, but the pump is reverse. If I raise the power in Aquasuite the RPM's decrease and vice versa. Has anyone else had this issue? Should I just switch the 3/4 wires in the connector?
> 
> Also, I bought a poweramp, but I didn't see how to use it with the MPC35X pump.


Have you set channel 4 to be PWM controlled? I think it's an advanced setting not normally shown.

Also power amp is for voltage control, not so useful for PWM pump.


----------



## skupples

The pump goes faster when you lower the setting, and speeds up when you decrease the setting? Really?!

I remember hearing stories about MCP35x coming wired wrong, back when they first launched, but I don't think that would cause said problems.


----------



## frunction

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> Have you set channel 4 to be PWM controlled? I think it's an advanced setting not normally shown.
> 
> Also power amp is for voltage control, not so useful for PWM pump.


You are a god, thank u.


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *frunction*
> 
> You are a god, thank u.


Er, glad to help


----------



## macforth

So my Aquaero 6 XT arrived from Germany.. got to Aussieland in two days and took a further four to get to me........ but that's the modern postal service, lol

It's sitting on top of my PC with connections to my pumps and three temp sensors. I played around with the software to get the hang of how to use this beast as a controller, which took about a week of off and on again playing.

I have a couple of questions that my hours and hours of reading have failed to answer.

Q1: When one opens the Aquaero software . then fans...... then advanced, and selects "pwm" are the terms "minimum power" and maximum power" in the Settings window immediately above.. now mean minimum % duty cycle and maximum % duty cycle.

Q2: If more fan control connections are needed for non-pwm fans would one use one or more Power adjust 2's or an Aquaero 5 LT.
( I note this listed on Frozen CPU http://www.frozencpu.com/products/14991/bus-303/Aquacomputer_Aluminum_Mount_Bezel_for_Poweradjust_2_USB_-_Black_53087.html?tl=c229s882b200)

Q3: If more PWM fan control outlets are needed is the any other option other than purchasing another Aquaro 6?

Cheers:


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *macforth*
> 
> I have a couple of questions that my hours and hours of reading have failed to answer.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Q1: When one opens the Aquaero software . then fans...... then advanced, and selects "pwm" are the terms "minimum power" and maximum power" in the Settings window immediately above.. now mean minimum % duty cycle and maximum % duty cycle.
> 
> Q2: If more fan control connections are needed for non-pwm fans would one use one or more Power adjust 2's or an Aquaero 5 LT.
> ( I note this listed on Frozen CPU http://www.frozencpu.com/products/14991/bus-303/Aquacomputer_Aluminum_Mount_Bezel_for_Poweradjust_2_USB_-_Black_53087.html?tl=c229s882b200)
> 
> Q3: If more PWM fan control outlets are needed is the any other option other than purchasing another Aquaro 6?


A1: Yes. I found this odd as well that the user interface seems to suggest it's still going to change voltage, but it is indeed duty cycle.
A2: Either of those will work fine.
A3: I believe so. I seem to recall that If you slave AQ5 devices, the PWM channel on those becomes disabled.


----------



## madcratebuilder

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *adamcobabe*
> 
> Haha, good idea MeanBruce. If anyone else has a superfluous stock Aquaero 6 *Pro* faceplate, I would love to take it off your hands.


PM me your address


----------



## shakurass

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> A1: Yes. I found this odd as well that the user interface seems to suggest it's still going to change voltage, but it is indeed duty cycle.
> A2: Either of those will work fine.
> A3: I believe so. I seem to recall that If you slave AQ5 devices, the PWM channel on those becomes disabled.


Further to A3 you could also use a fan splitter cable or board to plug in more fans to each of the 4 headers on the Aquaero, assuming you don't absolutely require control of each individual fan.


----------



## skupples

Is it possible to run 2x flow sensors from one AQ6?\

Thinking about possibly splitting my loop into a dual loop, with 2x MCP35x2's, but would like to monitor the flow from both from one Aquaero.


----------



## kpoeticg

Yeah. Just depends which flowmeters. The 3Pin Flowmeters, like High Flow G1/4 Non-USB or other brands like Bitspower, can be run from the "Flow" Header or Fan Header 1. Also the Flow header is still operational on an LT Slave.

Or you can get the High Flow G1/4 USB, which connects to the Aquabus port. Or a few of the High Flow USB's, or 1 3Pin and 1 Aquabus =)


----------



## skupples

I was hoping I could make use of both the hi/low aquabus.









hmm... Running one via USB would be much cheaper than getting a second unit.

will see how the build goes. I'm leaning towards getting one more DDC & splitting the loop up. 1x 480 & 1x 360 for mobo, and 2x 480s for GPU section w/ 2x 200mm BP reservoirs.

also gotta figure out how/if/where i'll run pass through


----------



## kpoeticg

I don't remember which devices use the low-speed aquabus. I think the Aquastream might, also the Multiswitch

You can split Aquabus devices though. I think maybe like 4 devices or even more...

There's nothing wrong with running a USB & Non-USB. That way you can make use of the flow-header & run the other one off Aquabus


----------



## Shoggy

As maximum configuration the aquabus supports

*Highspeed:*
2x aquastream XT
4x mps based devices (Flow, Pressure, D5)
8x poweradjust II
1x aquaero 5 LT (if connected, poweradjust II lowers to 4x)
1x Real Time Clock

*Lowspeed:*
1x tubemeter*
2x multiswitch*

_(*both are not available anymore)_

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> Also the Flow header is still operational on an LT Slave.


No, it is not! I know that some older printed manuals state this but it is wrong.


----------



## MeanBruce

I know I could have, should have bought the EK-X-Top Rev 2 OR the Koolance COV-RP450 both better performers, difference $10, but I just fell in love with the understated beauty of the XSPC D5 top, simple minimalistic and industrial and I already have the XSPC RX360v3 rad and the copper Raystorm CPU block is arriving next week, all that's left for this custom no-res AIO is the AquaComputer D5 Aquabus, think I might order that direct from Shoggy.

Thanking Extreme Rigs and Stren for this awesome Pump Top RoundUp, Yeehaw.









http://www.xtremerigs.net/2013/08/09/single-d5-pump-tops-roundup/

http://s1177.photobucket.com/user/MeanBruce/media/IMG_6672_zpsdd18a91f.jpg.html

http://s1177.photobucket.com/user/MeanBruce/media/IMG_6621_zpsf25aef5c.jpg.html


----------



## Kimir

Received my Aquaero black front bezel today (the original one was glued on badly damn







)
Look nice like this, I guess.


----------



## MeanBruce

That looks EXTREMELY nice, did you paint your bezel screws or find some nice black ones that just happen to look freaking amazing?









I painted my stock stainless screws, but would still like to find some anodized black that fit perfectly.


----------



## Kimir

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MeanBruce*
> 
> That looks EXTREMELY nice, did you paint your bezel screws or find some nice black ones that just happen to look freaking amazing?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I painted my stock stainless screws, but would still like to find some anodized black that fit perfectly.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Image!


Used those one I had in stock, they aren't countersunk head screws but they blend in nicely.


----------



## kpoeticg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> As maximum configuration the aquabus supports
> 
> *Highspeed:*
> 2x aquastream XT
> 4x mps based devices (Flow, Pressure, D5)
> 8x poweradjust II
> 1x aquaero 5 LT (if connected, poweradjust II lowers to 4x)
> 1x Real Time Clock
> 
> *Lowspeed:*
> 1x tubemeter*
> 2x multiswitch*
> 
> (*both are not available anymore)


Thanx for the clarification. So, keeping Slave LT out of the equation, does that mean that the High Speed Aquabus Port can be split 15 ways? That's pretty awesome!!!

Quote:



> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> Also the Flow header is still operational on an LT Slave.
> 
> 
> 
> No, it is not! I know that some older printed manuals state this but it is wrong.
Click to expand...

Wow, that's pretty useful info to know. Maybe even OP worthy for this thread. Thanx again for clearing that up. I'm 99% sure that i did get that info from an Aquacomputer Manual


----------



## skupples

So wait, that means I can run multiple flows from the one High Aquabus?


----------



## MeanBruce

Where's KPoetic?

Duuude, one of my 1/2x3/4 compression fittings won't thread down but a few mm's then is sticks, looks like XSPC pushed some extra metal spurs into the threading when they cut in the "coin slot", I shouldn't panic right?

Sorry, I've only owned compression fittings for umm two hours now, water cooling noooooooooooooob here.


----------



## kpoeticg

Yeah, i knew that it split at least 4 ways. But it sounds like it splits alot more than that.

They sell Aquabus Y-Splitter Cables. Also the Real Time Clock Module splits the High Speed Port into 2 new ports

http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=&products_id=37323





Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MeanBruce*
> 
> Where's KPoetic?
> 
> Duuude, one of my 1/2x3/4 compression fittings won't thread down but a few mm's then is sticks, looks like XSPC pushed some extra metal spurs into the threading when they cut in the "coin slot", I shouldn't panic right?
> 
> Sorry, I've only owned compression fittings for umm two hours now, water cooling noooooooooooooob here.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Link the fitting and what you're screwing it into. Some blocks have shallow ports and you can strip the threads if you screw it in too much


----------



## MeanBruce

It seems to be the fitting, it won't screw into ANY of the ports yet all ports accept any other fitting, I just don't want to damage the Acetal block in any way. May just drive it back to Performance PCs on Monday for an exchange.

Its the TOP fitting in this pic barely grips the block before stalling.

Also, what is your opinion of this XSPC D5 pump top? I can go back for the EK-X top or the Koolance if absolutely necessary but I love the way this one looks.

http://s1177.photobucket.com/user/MeanBruce/media/IMG_6672_zpsdd18a91f.jpg.html


----------



## kpoeticg

EK usually has a better track record for flowrates with their tops. But i don't own a D5, so can't really give an educated answer

Bitspower sells spacers for fittings that are too long for some ports. It could be the fitting. Have you tried screwing the barb in without the compression ring attached? I wouldn't force it. I'd buy a new fitting before forcing it into the top

Edit: Then again, i can't see XSPC making fittings that aren't compatible with their tops. Try taking the compression ring off. Then screw just the barb into the port. Since they're both XSPC, they should fit. Maybe try blowing out any extra crap that might be in the threads of the fitting or the port. Do you have an air compressor or datavac?


----------



## MeanBruce

The XSPC black chrome is very unusual, actually thought PPCs gave me the wrong color fittings in the store today, the color moves from bright silver to dark black depending on the light or lack of light they are reflecting, I love em.

By the way, PPCS has the most adorable Russian girl working there now, freaking adorable, don't know her name or if she's single but I'll find out.










of course I have a DataVac, silly.









http://s1177.photobucket.com/user/MeanBruce/media/IMG_6678_zps0b3f3260.jpg.html


----------



## MeanBruce

Where did everybody go?

What you don't love the Aquaero 6? Oh they must have slipped out for some Friday night entertainment. ( ( ( no eyes, my fiancée is gone, in Miami with her parents visiting her sister at University of Miami in Coral Gables, so alone so so alone, ( ( (

Currently Viewing:

1 Member

MeanBruce

Go ahead sing it to me Bob


----------



## badkarma3059

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MeanBruce*
> 
> Where did everybody go?
> 
> What you don't love the Aquaero 6? Oh they must have slipped out for some Friday night entertainment. ( ( ( no eyes, my fiancée is gone, in Miami with her parents visiting her sister at University of Miami in Coral Gables, so alone so so alone, ( ( (
> 
> Currently Viewing:
> 
> 1 Member
> 
> MeanBruce
> 
> Go ahead sing it to me Bob


Hmmmm. What don't I love....
That I just hooked mine up on my rebuild today and feel waaaaaaaay over my head. I have some reading to do lol. All kidding aside this is an awesome unit


----------



## MeanBruce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *badkarma3059*
> 
> Hmmmm. What don't I love....
> That I just hooked mine up on my rebuild today and feel waaaaaaaay over my head. I have some reading to do lol. All kidding aside this is an awesome unit


Everyone here is also here to help, so ask all your questions.

Enjoy your Aquaero 6









...Sorry guys and Darlene, I seem to lose my mind anytime my fiancée is out of town, this is only the third time we've been apart the entire 17months, the first time I went so nuts I bought a CaseLabs M8 for $556 an emotionally driven impulse buy, that I don't regret, love my chassis, but the timing and purpose was for all the wrong reasons.

Only 24hrs to go, this time I won't burn up the credit card, I'll just grill some chicken outside get some sunshine and try to keep my sanity in check.









I miss you Alina.









...


----------



## chimaychanga

Darlene. I made a custom power cable to power the A6 and pump.. but I accidentally used the wrong wire gauge. My PSUs stock power cables are 18 AWG which is approx 1mm. I used a 0,5mm (24awg) which was meant for the modded pwm pump extension cable. Before noticing it I Powered them up and everything seemed fine but question is if that wire gauge is sufficient for them ?



Oh BTW.. regarding my pump RPM issue.. after a correspondence with Performance PCs explaining them everything we been through troubleshooting it all, they told me that they never had any RMA with this pump model before and If i wanted I could send it back to them. I then explained them that my concern was RMAing the pump as opposed to the value of it and the shipping cost from here to USA.. then after 3 days with no response from them I received a mail from Hank Baron the CEO of Performance PCs just writing "pump replacement and T&T nr








I really didn't expect it to be this easy.. props to PPCs !!! now I just hope that the replacement will work


----------



## MeanBruce

"You're such a good dog, oh yes you are, that's my good dog."









http://s1177.photobucket.com/user/MeanBruce/media/IMG_6590_zpsf79909c7.jpg.html


----------



## TATH

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MeanBruce*
> 
> "You're such a good dog, oh yes you are, that's my good dog."
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> http://s1177.photobucket.com/user/MeanBruce/media/IMG_6590_zpsf79909c7.jpg.html


Hmmm i like a big t-bone and a large beer. Whe had great weather for a bbq. And what did i do "filing my acrylic cover".


----------



## madcratebuilder

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> Thanx for the clarification. So, keeping Slave LT out of the equation, does that mean that the High Speed Aquabus Port can be split 15 ways? That's pretty awesome!!!
> 
> Wow, that's pretty useful info to know. Maybe even OP worthy for this thread. Thanx again for clearing that up. I'm 99% sure that i did get that info from an Aquacomputer Manual


No way to get the high speed aquabus it to split 15 ways. I think you are limited to 4 MPS devices and 4 USB devices.
Quote:


> AQUAERO 5/6
> 4.6. Connector "aquabus low speed/high speed"
> Connectors for communication with other devices from Aqua Computer. The
> aquaero 5/6 features one „low speed" (aquabus 1) and one „high speed"
> (aquabus 2) port.
> Products compatible to the "low speed" port:
> ● multiswitch USB
> ● tubemeter USB
> Products compatible to the "high speed" port:
> ● aquastream XT
> ● Aqua Computer D5 pump motor with aquabus interface
> ● flow sensor „high flow USB"
> ● flow sensor mps flow
> ● poweradjust 2 USB (firmware version 1003 or higher)
> ● aqualis XT series
> ● aquainlet XT series
> ● pump adapter for aqualis with integrated fill level sensor
> ● pressure sensor mps pressure
> Please note: Both aquabus connectors are also compatible with 3 pin
> aquabus devices. The additional "pin 4" supplies power to compatible 4 pin
> aquabus devices. For example, a poweradjust 2 unit (3 pin) and a mps flow
> 200 unit (4 pin) can simultaneously be connected using a 4 pin Y adapter
> cable (art. 53124).
> Pin assignment: Pin 1: GND
> Pin 2: SDA
> Pin 3: SCL
> Pin 4: +5 V


You can add poweradjust expansion boards.
Quote:


> Compatible aquabus devices
> Additional functionality, outputs and sensor inputs can be added by connecting
> aquabus expansion devices. The following table provides information on
> expansion options:
> aquabus device
> (Article number)
> Outputs Inputs Note Max. number
> (Bus address)
> aquastream XT
> (41059, 41060, 41061)
> 1x Pump speed 1x Temperature 2
> (10-11)
> compact 600/12 V USB
> (41098, 41099, 41100, 41101)
> 1x Pump speed 1x Temperature 2
> (10-11)
> D5-Pump with aquabus (41093) 1x Pump power 1x Temperature (ext.) 4 (12-15)
> Flow sensor high flow USB
> (53129)
> 1x Flow
> 1x Temperature (ext.)
> 4
> (12-15)
> Flow sensor mps flow
> (53130, 53131, 53132)
> 1x Flow
> 1x Water temperature
> 1x Temperature (ext.)
> 4
> (12-15)
> poweradjust 2
> (53082, 53083)
> 1x Fan 1x Temperature (ext.)
> 1x Flow (ext.)
> 8
> (50-57)
> aquaero LT as expansion device
> (53095)
> 4x Fan 4x Temperature (ext.) 1
> (fest 50-53)
> Pressure sensor mps pressure
> (53133, 53134, 53135, 53136)
> 1x Fill level / Pressure
> 1x Temperature (ext.)
> 4
> (12-15)
> aqualis XT (34041, 34042, 34050,
> 34058, 34059, 34060, 34061,
> 34072)
> 1x Fill level
> 1x Temperature (ext.)
> 4
> (12-15)
> aquainlet XT
> (34066, 34067, 34068, 34069)
> 1x Fill level
> 1x Temperature (ext.)
> 4
> (12-15)
> Pump adapters and modules with fill level
> sensor
> (41095, 41097, 41099, 41101)
> 1x Fill level
> 1x Temperature (ext.)
> 4
> (12-15)
> tubemeter (93265) 1x Fill level 1 (12)
> Real Time Clock (53127) Date/time 1 (111)
> multiswitch (53050, 53051) 8x power output
> 8x LED output
> 1x Relay output
> 
> 2
> (20-21)
> Overlapping bus addresses, only on device per address!
> 
> AQUAERO 5/6
> Uses bus addresses 50, 51, 52 and 53. A maximum of four (instead of
> eight) additional poweradjust expansion boards with bus addresses 54-57
> can be connected!
> Must be connected to „low speed aquabus" port!
> Outputs can only be switched, no PWM functionality.
> poweradjust firmware version 1003 or higher required!
> multiswitch firmware version 106 or higher required! Firmware has to be
> updated using aquasuite version 4.xx!!


It's all in the manual, read it a few times then work with the Aqua Suite program and it becomes clear...as mud.


----------



## skupples




----------



## Shoggy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> Thanx for the clarification. So, keeping Slave LT out of the equation, does that mean that the High Speed Aquabus Port can be split 15 ways? That's pretty awesome!!!


I am not sure about your point of view here. The amount of devices is not limited by a fixed number but how the aquaero manages the devices internally. So with upcoming aquabus enabled devices this will also increase to an even larger amount.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> So wait, that means I can run multiple flows from the one High Aquabus?


You can have up to 14 flow sensor. Two directly on the aquaero, four via mps flow sensors and eight via poweradjust controllers.


----------



## Jakusonfire

Aquabus is a bus system so it can essentially be split an unlimited number of times if you wanted to. It is the aquabus addresses for devices that are limited.

If you had say 4 MPS devices and 8 power adjusts you could split a single cable into 12 separate connectors and it will work fine. The poweradjusts have two Aquabus headers though so they can be daisy chained together. So you could have a single cable split into 4 connectors for the mps devices and one for the first poweradjust, then all the other poweradjusts connected one to another. Just about any combination of these will work too.
Kind of like splitting fan cables as long as the signals for each device can get back to the aquaero it will work.


----------



## MeanBruce

My very first Tooooooooooooooooooooooooo-bing.









Wow, just under $20 for 4 feet of tubing. It looks nice though, just what I wanted understated and industrial. Had to go with Frozen, since PPCS doesn't carry the Tygon A-60-G Norprene, I shouldn't complain about price since only using three lengths of tubing and six compression fittings.

Still, if I told any automotive enthusiast this cost $20, he'd probably laugh at me.

http://s1177.photobucket.com/user/MeanBruce/media/IMG_6707_zpsfaa0bd68.jpg.html

http://s1177.photobucket.com/user/MeanBruce/media/IMG_6709_zpsbe733aba.jpg.html

http://s1177.photobucket.com/user/MeanBruce/media/IMG_6710_zps4691a2d3.jpg.html


----------



## B NEGATIVE

I do not see an Aquaero,why is there a post about tubing here?


----------



## ngzb

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> I do not see an Aquaero,why is there a post about tubing here?


Its only to make the aquero reading more difficult for the ones who really need it and probably just to show off, same as adolescents.


----------



## badkarma3059

Here, lets get this back on track before a mob forms and tries to go after MeanBruce for his tubing pic.

Just need to hack up an panel cover and flush mount it. Never really Liked how they worked this out on the 900D. Once I have some free time and I'm feeling crafty enough I will tackle it. Little burned out after cramming this rebuild into a short amount of time.


----------



## JottaD

Here my aquaero 6 wc connections



My loop is almost done


----------



## TATH

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JottaD*
> 
> Here my aquaero 6 wc connections
> 
> 
> 
> My loop is almost done


Fast job looking good.


----------



## Roikyou

I just moved my Aquaero 6 from my Switch 810 to my Caselabs TH10. I noticed yesterday when I shut the computer down, there was a dull glow from the Aqua, took a look, it didn't power off, it's getting power from somewhere but everything is shut down. On the upside, there's no boot up time when you first turn on the computer cause the Aqua is running already. Anyone seen this?


----------



## madcratebuilder

That is normal, the AQ6 retains 5v power from the USB connection, at least mine does. I'm not sure if it is powered from the 5v side of the molex when powered off.


----------



## Roikyou

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *madcratebuilder*
> 
> That is normal, the AQ6 retains 5v power from the USB connection, at least mine does. I'm not sure if it is powered from the 5v side of the molex when powered off.


Honestly hope it stays that way, when the Aqua completely boots down, the boot up, the pump doesn't get the pwm signal, so it goes full bore till it gets the signal, then goes the the minimum I set it too, so you get that quick rush the pumps are running at first boot.


----------



## badkarma3059

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Roikyou*
> 
> I just moved my Aquaero 6 from my Switch 810 to my Caselabs TH10. I noticed yesterday when I shut the computer down, there was a dull glow from the Aqua, took a look, it didn't power off, it's getting power from somewhere but everything is shut down. On the upside, there's no boot up time when you first turn on the computer cause the Aqua is running already. Anyone seen this?


Noticed this the first night I had mine. Powered things all down and my aq 6 was still staring at me. Just drop the standby brightness down to zero in the settings if having it lit up bothers you.


----------



## Roikyou

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *badkarma3059*
> 
> Noticed this the first night I had mine. Powered things all down and my aq 6 was still staring at me. Just drop the standby brightness down to zero in the settings if having it lit up bothers you.


It was very dim, I had to take a second look to notice it. No need to dim it any more. Very happy with it and the performance so far, two mcp35x and 11 fans, 8 on third channel and 3 on another channel.


----------



## skupples

This is all by design.


----------



## Roikyou

With my previous build, I must have missed something as the Aqua turned completely off, not even a dim screen. I did remember that in back of the Aqua in the new build, with the computer turned off, there is a flashing red led, communication, so I know it's still running.


----------



## chimaychanga

Where u at Darlene...

Can you please enlighten me with wire gauge size restrictions ?

Im still thinking of getting the AC D5 pump because of control and compatibility with the A6 even though I got a replacement of the Swiftech..
What are your thoughts on this ?


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chimaychanga*
> 
> Where u at Darlene...
> 
> Can you please enlighten me with wire gauge size restrictions ?
> 
> Im still thinking of getting the AC D5 pump because of control and compatibility with the A6 even though I got a replacement of the Swiftech..
> What are your thoughts on this ?


I hope she is okay too









You wrote before that you have 0.5mm wire, which you translated to 24 AWG. That would be an unusual size to find in Europe. Are you sure it's not 0.5mm2 ?

Anyway, the Swiftech 655 pump is rated at 2 amps. So it doesn't matter: both 0.5mm diameter wire and 0.5mm2 cross-section wire can carry 2 amps just fine.


----------



## rncshow

Hey guys, am I missing something here? I just got an Aquaero 6 hooked up to 10 GT AP-15's and I'm using 2 of these power blocks with 5 fans connected to each and they are hooked up to the first and second fan channels on the Aquaero

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/14662/ele-988/3-Pin_Power_Distribution_PCB_5xWay_Block_MMT-PCB-5WAY.html?tl=g47c121s424

The Aquaero powers the fans great, and if I go into Aquasuite > Controllers I can lower and raise the preset value and it lowers and raises the speed of all the fans. The problem I have is none of the fans are being recognized by Aquasuite or the Aquaero display. The default Fan 1-4 in aquasuite are all showing 0 rpm and sometimes Fan 2 will show ~900 rpm for a second then go to 0, then back to 900 etc. I'm new to this, and have a feeling there's a default setting(s) that's causing my problem, but I can't figure it out. Any ideas?


----------



## Roikyou

I'm sure someone will chime in but if I remember, doesnt that share the rpm signal from all fans, confusing the Aquaero? Shouldn't we have only one rpm signal to each fan controller channel. Thought I remember someone modifying these to work, I could be in left field but I'm pretty confident you don't want all five rpm signals reporting.

The splitter I'm using only reports for the first fan, the rest of the fans just get power and ground from Aquaero via the splitter. Using 3-Pin to 9x 3-Pin Y Cable Splitter. First plug has three pins, last 8 has two pins.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rncshow*
> 
> Hey guys, am I missing something here? I just got an Aquaero 6 hooked up to 10 GT AP-15's and I'm using 2 of these power blocks with 5 fans connected to each and they are hooked up to the first and second fan channels on the Aquaero
> 
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/14662/ele-988/3-Pin_Power_Distribution_PCB_5xWay_Block_MMT-PCB-5WAY.html?tl=g47c121s424
> 
> The Aquaero powers the fans great, and if I go into Aquasuite > Controllers I can lower and raise the preset value and it lowers and raises the speed of all the fans. The problem I have is none of the fans are being recognized by Aquasuite or the Aquaero display. The default Fan 1-4 in aquasuite are all showing 0 rpm and sometimes Fan 2 will show ~900 rpm for a second then go to 0, then back to 900 etc. I'm new to this, and have a feeling there's a default setting(s) that's causing my problem, but I can't figure it out. Any ideas?


Pretty sure the issue is going to be that the modmytoys pcb splits the 3 input pins to all of the outputs. The problem with that is all of the fan's rpm signals are reporting to the fan controller instead of only one fan. More than one fan's tach signal reporting on one wire will corrupt it and make it unreadable by the controller. They should have all three wires including that tach wire going only to the first fan and then only two wires - the power and the ground - going to the rest, like any decent fan splitter cable will, but for whatever the reason those PCBs aren't made that way.

See here for where I ran into the same issue with the NZXT Grid and fixed it by snipping the rpm terminals off of all but one of the outputs, and below is a picture that I believe is the back of one of those MMT PCBs where you can see they scratched through the circuit for the tach past the first fan port...



I've really no idea why on earth they would make those hubs/PCBs like that. I can't think of any reason to have the tach going to all of the fan outlet ports instead of just one and it makes their product shoddy for use with any decent fan controller unless you mod it somehow.


----------



## kpoeticg

I used a drill for mine =)


----------



## rncshow

It would make sense to me that the multi-port pcb board is trying to send all the rpm signals instead of just a single fan's signal. Is there a link to buy a 4 or 5 way splitter that is more compatible for the aquaero that is for non-pwm fans? Thanks!


----------



## rncshow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Pretty sure the issue is going to be that the modmytoys pcb splits the 3 input pins to all of the outputs. The problem with that is all of the fan's rpm signals are reporting to the fan controller instead of only one fan. More than one fan's tach signal reporting on one wire will corrupt it and make it unreadable by the controller. They should have all three wires including that tach wire going only to the first fan and then only two wires - the power and the ground - going to the rest, like any decent fan splitter cable will, but for whatever the reason those PCBs aren't made that way.
> 
> See here for where I ran into the same issue with the NZXT Grid and fixed it by snipping the rpm terminals off of all but one of the outputs, and below is a picture that I believe is the back of one of those MMT PCBs where you can see they scratched through the circuit for the tach past the first fan port...
> 
> I've really no idea why on earth they would make those hubs/PCBs like that. I can't think of any reason to have the tach going to all of the fan outlet ports instead of just one and it makes their product shoddy for use with any decent fan controller unless you mod it somehow.


That does look exactly like the back of my pcb board...is it really that simple of a fix? If so I'll gladly hack up that one circuit to resolve the issue. Thanks!!


----------



## Roikyou

Pretty much what I was trying to say in a nutshell, can't share the rpm from all fans.

Something I noticed for the first time, as I mentioned earlier that the Aquaero now stays on in the new build, I watched the Aquaero when I hit the power button, it actually had a pop up on the screen saying "powering on"". Very impressed now that it's working correctly.


----------



## skupples

so... I have an issue. I purchased the Akasa PWM splitter to power my pumps, but the MCP35x head doesn't match up with the PWM headers on the Akasa... They are 4 pin, but are slotted for 3 pin?

I was planning to just remove the yellow & black wires that lead from the molex to the headers, but now i'm not sure what to do. I was thinking I could just take the razor blade to the MCP header, but wanted to verify first.






I figured it would work since MCP35x is split. 4 pin for RPM signal & power from molex. The MCP35x does have two leads coming out of the header though. Blue and gray.


----------



## VSG

That's weird, the 5-way PWM Akasa splitter I have fits 4-pin PWM devices perfectly.


----------



## RDKing2

The akasa splitter is standard. it is the female pump 4 pin pump connector that is non standard. Odd that the colors are reversed on the pump 4 pin as well. What you are planning to do should work fine. just shave off the piece over the green wire. Just remember to plug one of the pumps into the splitter lead that has the rpm wire. Notice the other two do not have it.

Edit- looked at swiftech's site and they have their own pwm splitter using the same plug configuration. From the picture of their splitter, not exactly sure what it does? just a jumper from one male to the other on the pwm pin with no signal traveling from one end of the cables to the other.

BTW- I use the 8 way swiftech splitter and the 5 way akasa splitters with my aquaero 6 and they work fine with akasa fans.


----------



## seross69

So glad we have this thread


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RDKing2*
> 
> The akasa splitter is standard. it is the female pump 4 pin pump connector that is non standard. Odd that the colors are reversed on the pump 4 pin as well. What you are planning to do should work fine. just shave off the piece over the green wire. Just remember to plug one of the pumps into the splitter lead that has the rpm wire. Notice the other two do not have it.
> 
> Edit- looked at swiftech's site and they have their own pwm splitter using the same plug configuration. From the picture of their splitter, not exactly sure what it does? just a jumper from one male to the other on the pwm pin with no signal traveling from one end of the cables to the other.
> 
> BTW- I use the 8 way swiftech splitter and the 5 way akasa splitters with my aquaero 6 and they work fine with akasa fans.


That particular cable is for a very specific job. Daisy chaining multiple PWM devices but maintaining the individual RPM signals on their own headers. So you can have two or more Pumps or fans using the one PWM signal but still having each device plugged in to a header to read its RPM.

There are just a couple of different types of PWM connectors. Some are like an extended 3 pin and some are like the one above. Its fine to either modify them or just swap the connector itself over for the other style.


----------



## kpoeticg

I have the 5way Akasa Splitter. It takes the RPM from 1 fan and sends pwm to all 5, while powering from molex.

Pin 3 is missing from 4 of the 5 male connectors. I just dbl checked mine

I know they have a sata powered splitter too, but i can't imagine it's any different

This is the one i have



http://www.frozencpu.com/products/13548/cab-464/Akasa_Flexa_FP5_PWM_5-Way_Splitter_-_Smart_Fan_Cable_AK-CBFA03-45.html?id=32vsvCqR&mv_pc=6236#blank

Edit: Also for anybody ( @WiSK ) wondering what happened to the ribbon cable mod i'm attempting, I just ordered 2 more of the female connectors from Digikey tonight (got one extra just in case). Should be here in a few days. I had some ideas about sticking pins through the insulation of the ribbon cable into the pin socket, but just seemed more trouble than it was worth.

New connectors should be here in 2-3 days. I'm gonna try it at like 10-15cm this time. Here's hoping it works. Took so long for me to order because i was trying to find a shielded cable that would work, but i guess that's one of those industry secrets









It's ironic that 3M has the exact shielded ribbon cable i need listed on their website as (Coming Soon). Oh well, hopefully a short run will work without the shielding


----------



## TATH

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> I have the 5way Akasa Splitter. It takes the RPM from 1 fan and sends pwm to all 5, while powering from molex.
> 
> Pin 3 is missing from 4 of the 5 male connectors. I just dbl checked mine
> 
> I know they have a sata powered splitter too, but i can't imagine it's any different
> 
> This is the one i have
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/13548/cab-464/Akasa_Flexa_FP5_PWM_5-Way_Splitter_-_Smart_Fan_Cable_AK-CBFA03-45.html?id=32vsvCqR&mv_pc=6236#blank


Made i simular cable "power cable"for my fans. The 40 fans get powered from both Aquearo's each aquero handles 1\2 of the fans.
Max power consumption 52 watt and iddle 37,2 watt..


----------



## kpoeticg

Yeah i do all my own stuff now too. I ordered that like a year ago when i first started my build.

I couldn't respect myself if i ordered one of those now, after the giant box of pins of connectors i have from Digikey.

I ordered 100-500pks of male and female "Molex", ATX, Dupont, & Fan terminals in all wire guages available. (Molex and ATX offer 16AWG, 16-18AWG, & like 22-28AWG).

I have more pins and connectors than i know what to do with









I had to order from moddiy to get a bulk rate on the male dupont pins =\


----------



## TATH

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> Yeah i do all my own stuff now too. I ordered that like a year ago when i first started my build.
> 
> I couldn't respect myself if i ordered one of those now, after the giant box of pins of connectors i have from Digikey.
> 
> I ordered 100-500pks of male and female "Molex", ATX, Dupont, & Fan terminals in all wire guages available. (Molex and ATX offer 16AWG, 16-18AWG, & like 22-28AWG).
> 
> I have more pins and connectors than i know what to do with
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I had to order from moddiy to get a bulk rate on the male dupont pins =\


At least you dont grab in a empty box. I have also plenty of al. Used colered wires for my last fans because the cable is sleeved and not in the way. I used 0,40mm colored cables "have to look up the AWG gauge.

Before i made my own cables i also buy the splitters.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chimaychanga*
> 
> Where u at Darlene...
> 
> Can you please enlighten me with wire gauge size restrictions ?
> 
> Im still thinking of getting the AC D5 pump because of control and compatibility with the A6 even though I got a replacement of the Swiftech..
> What are your thoughts on this ?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *chimaychanga*
> 
> Where u at Darlene...
> 
> Can you please enlighten me with wire gauge size restrictions ?
> 
> Im still thinking of getting the AC D5 pump because of control and compatibility with the A6 even though I got a replacement of the Swiftech..
> What are your thoughts on this ?
> 
> 
> 
> I hope she is okay too
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You wrote before that you have 0.5mm wire, which you translated to 24 AWG. That would be an unusual size to find in Europe. Are you sure it's not 0.5mm2 ?
> 
> Anyway, the Swiftech 655 pump is rated at 2 amps. So it doesn't matter: both 0.5mm diameter wire and 0.5mm2 cross-section wire can carry 2 amps just fine.
Click to expand...

Been a bit preoccupied lately . . . . .









There really are some other things in life that are as much fun as being a computer nerd.



As to your wire gage, It really depends on what the total load on the Aquaero is, since that wire has to carry it all.

For a pump and a few fans, if your total is around 4 amps or so, it'll get you by.

I'd really recommend that you either just order a premade extension, or make one with at least an 18 gage wire.

Darlene


----------



## kpoeticg

Lol, i put off ordering from Digikey for so long, that i just ordered spools of every pin i could think of. Even found extra pins and connectors for my Aquaero Flowmeter =)

I have some of the MMT Splitters too. My builds kind of spread around my entire apartment right now, so haven't planned that far ahead yet. I'll probly use some PCB splitters too. I already cut the rpm trace after the first header on my 4Way PWM PCB, just in case i decide to run my 35x3 off it


----------



## Shoggy

aquaero 0.02, anyone?











These are some pretty old prototype boards. The fourth board is an aquaero 3.0 board and was the base for the aquaero 3.07 which was the first aquaero that was available for sale. I still use this variant in my system for about 10 years now









But it gets even better. Behold - the mystery board...



That was a planned extension board for the older aquaeros to add four more fan channels. Due to the high production costs it never saw the day of light as a regular product. Using a second aquaero like a LT version made more sense at this time.


----------



## skupples

By the way.... How the hell do I pull male connector fan pins?


----------



## TATH

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> By the way.... How the hell do I pull male connector fan pins?


what you mean about "pull male fan pins" . what you want to do.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> By the way.... How the hell do I pull male connector fan pins?


There is a tiny slot directly above the terminal on the side of the connector with the tab that you need to poke a single-prong terminal tool (there's a cheap one that comes with the sunbeamtech kits that works pretty well for that purpose) or a thin paper clip or the like into to get the pin to release.

Googled up this image:



Edit:
Here's what I use to get at it:



^ I pretty much hate those kits otherwise. All of the other tools are junk imho. Much better off to spend the little bit of extra money to get better tools instead, but I gotta say that that single pin tool in that kit has come in handy to me quite a few times. Late Edit: I just remembered that I actually filed that single prong tool a little bit to make it fit better.

But like I said, you could use something like a paper clip or a really small eyeglasses flathead screwdriver instead. If you have a screwdriver small enough, it should be pretty much ideal.


----------



## skupples

I thought that may be it. Thanks! +1


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> I thought that may be it. Thanks! +1


Another tip:
You're very likely to need to use a hobby knife or the like to bend the tiny little tab on the pin back up just a bit after removal if you are wanting to reuse it. When removing them they like to get laid down flat so that the pin won't stay in very well if at all afterward if you don't.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> By the way.... How the hell do I pull male connector fan pins?
> 
> 
> 
> There is a tiny slot directly above the terminal on the side of the connector with the tab that you need to poke a single-prong terminal tool (there's a cheap one that comes with the sunbeamtech kits that works pretty well for that purpose) or a thin paper clip or the like into to get the pin to release.
> 
> Googled up this image:
> 
> 
> 
> Edit:
> Here's what I use to get at it:
> 
> 
> 
> ^ I pretty much hate those kits otherwise. All of the other tools are junk imho. Much better off to spend the little bit of extra money to get better tools instead, but I gotta say that that single pin tool in that kit has come in handy to me quite a few times. Late Edit: I just remembered that I actually filed that single prong tool a little bit to make it fit better.
> 
> But like I said, you could use something like a paper clip or a really small eyeglasses flathead screwdriver instead. If you have a screwdriver small enough, it should be pretty much ideal.
Click to expand...

Just get ATX tools and wait for them to break,the remaining pin is a good fan plug remover.


----------



## kpoeticg

Never buy kits!!!! Lol

I bought the Lamptron Kit, not one of the attachment actually removes the pins it's meant to.

The Dual Head ATX Tool that FCPU sells works great for male fan pins


----------



## Gabrielzm

Hi Folks

just got my package from FCPU down here in Brazil and got some suprises...

1) the glass/lcd of my aquaero 6 came without protection and is really scratched... Is the lack of plastic film normal?
2) Just read it en passant here to find out my two d5 PWM by Swiftech are not controlled properly by the Aquaero 6







...I guess I should have done my homework better before ordering. The mod seems fine but it will be quite difficult to accomplish down here. No easy way to get those parts.
3) the steel faceplate is actually glued to the lcd board behind it and a pain in the neck to get it off and replaced it with the black.. Glued ? Really?

Right now I am a bit







and disappointed. Any help or suggestions you guys might have will be more than welcome.

I guess I should contact the Aquacomputer customer support about the scratch...

Here are some pictures of it:


----------



## Shoggy

Always funny that people really believe we would ship an item in this condition.

Remove the *protective film* -> problem solved


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> Always funny that people really believe we would ship an item in this condition.
> 
> Remove the *protective film* -> problem solved












I did tried before but didn't got a sense of any plastic film over it.








Thks, problem 1 solved. what about problem 2, the glued faceplate. Is that the way it is suppose to be?


----------



## Kimir

Mine was glued, not really a clean job. I removed the excess of glue on the side of the pcb when I switched to the black faceplate.


----------



## Shoggy

Yes, that is normal. We use a screen printing method with uv-active glue. It saves us a lot of time in the production and also ensures a proper operation of the touch control buttons. Changing the cover requires a bit force.


----------



## SinatraFan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> Never buy kits!!!! Lol
> 
> I bought the Lamptron Kit, not one of the attachment actually removes the pins it's meant to.
> 
> The Dual Head ATX Tool that FCPU sells works great for male fan pins


I 2nd this! very good tool


----------



## kpoeticg

Quote:



> Originally Posted by *SinatraFan*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> Never buy kits!!!! Lol
> 
> I bought the Lamptron Kit, not one of the attachment actually removes the pins it's meant to.
> 
> The Dual Head ATX Tool that FCPU sells works great for male fan pins
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I 2nd this! very good tool
Click to expand...

That's actually the first ATX remover i bought. I ended up buying the Official Molex version too because of the hype over it. The Dual Head tool seems like it may break someday, whereas the Molex feels real solid. Both of em work equally great though. I had to bend the fingers out a little bit on both of em. I highly recommend it too.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *chimaychanga*
> 
> Where u at Darlene...
> 
> Can you please enlighten me with wire gauge size restrictions ?
> 
> Im still thinking of getting the AC D5 pump because of control and compatibility with the A6 even though I got a replacement of the Swiftech..
> What are your thoughts on this ?
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *chimaychanga*
> 
> Where u at Darlene...
> 
> Can you please enlighten me with wire gauge size restrictions ?
> 
> Im still thinking of getting the AC D5 pump because of control and compatibility with the A6 even though I got a replacement of the Swiftech..
> What are your thoughts on this ?
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> I hope she is okay too
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You wrote before that you have 0.5mm wire, which you translated to 24 AWG. That would be an unusual size to find in Europe. Are you sure it's not 0.5mm2 ?
> 
> Anyway, the Swiftech 655 pump is rated at 2 amps. So it doesn't matter: both 0.5mm diameter wire and 0.5mm2 cross-section wire can carry 2 amps just fine.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Been a bit preoccupied lately . . . . .
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There really are some other things in life that are as much fun as being a computer nerd.
> 
> 
> 
> As to your wire gage, It really depends on what the total load on the Aquaero is, since that wire has to carry it all.
> 
> For a pump and a few fans, if your total is around 4 amps or so, it'll get you by.
> 
> I'd really recommend that you either just order a premade extension, or make one with at least an 18 gage wire.
> 
> Darlene
Click to expand...

Jesus, you're a Harley chick too? Is there some special city that you come from where there's other women like you? Is it a secret?


----------



## whyscotty

Hi,
I'm trying to control 2 x Aquacomputer D5 Pump's with USB and Aquabus, using a Aquaero 5 Pro.

Could someone plus explain how best to connect it, to allow control of the pumps individually.

Thanks in advance


----------



## kpoeticg

I think you have to connect them by USB first to assign an Aquabus address. Then you can unplug the usb and hook it up to Aquabus. You'd need a Y-Splitter cable to to control them both.

I'm sure some1 will offer more help than that. I don't have any experience with them personally


----------



## whyscotty

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> I think you have to connect them by USB first to assign an Aquabus address. Then you can unplug the usb and hook it up to Aquabus. You'd need a Y-Splitter cable to to control them both.
> 
> I'm sure some1 will offer more help than that. I don't have any experience with them personally


Thanks for the reply.

It looks as one of the pumps Aquabus has failed.
The pump is no longer recognised using USB or the 4 pin via Aquabus,
So after taking so long to build, I have to strip out one of the loops.

Deep joy









The perks of watercooling

Are there any other tests I can do b4 stripping out and RMAing?


----------



## Roikyou

Any known issues with Aquasuite 2014 - 1.3 and OHM 0.6.0 Beta? Did a reinstall of the OS after new build, installed Aqua and OHM but OHM no longer shows in Aqua. OHM is getting updates from the motherboard and I know Aqua is talking to the motherboard/OS, not sure what's up or if I missed something.


----------



## madcratebuilder

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *whyscotty*
> 
> Thanks for the reply.
> 
> It looks as one of the pumps Aquabus has failed.
> The pump is no longer recognised using USB or the 4 pin via Aquabus,
> So after taking so long to build, I have to strip out one of the loops.
> 
> Deep joy
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The perks of watercooling
> 
> Are there any other tests I can do b4 stripping out and RMAing?


Did you set separate USB addresses for the pumps? After setting USB address change control priority to Aquabus (you can leave the USB cables connected). If you do not see what you expect then reboot the system.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Roikyou*
> 
> Any known issues with Aquasuite 2014 - 1.3 and OHM 0.6.0 Beta? Did a reinstall of the OS after new build, installed Aqua and OHM but OHM no longer shows in Aqua. OHM is getting updates from the motherboard and I know Aqua is talking to the motherboard/OS, not sure what's up or if I missed something.


I would recommend you install HWInfo64 as the sensor monitoring software, it provides a lot more info and interfaces with Aqua Suite without problems.

The only problems I have encountered with Aquasuite 2014 - 1.3 is occasionally I do not get all MPS devices, I restart the program (Aqua Suite) and it's normally OK, if not I reboot.


----------



## whyscotty

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *madcratebuilder*
> 
> Did you set separate USB addresses for the pumps? After setting USB address change control priority to Aquabus (you can leave the USB cables connected). If you do not see what you expect then reboot the system.
> I would recommend you install HWInfo64 as the sensor monitoring software, it provides a lot more info and interfaces with Aqua Suite without problems
> .


Like I said it doesn't recognise the pump using USB or via 4 pin Aquabus - started a RMA


----------



## kpoeticg

I'm pretty positive that it's necessary to setup the D5's via USB before connecting to Aquabus.

I haven't flipped back through the convo, so sorry if i'm saying something some1 else already said.

If you tried hooking up via aquabus before setting them up by usb, and now it's not working, it might be worth resetting Aquasuite to factory and starting again.

Connect the Aquaero to USB, connect one D5 to USB only and give it an aquabus address, then do the same with the 2nd D5, THEN connect them to aquabus


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *whyscotty*
> 
> Like I said it doesn't recognise the pump using USB or via 4 pin Aquabus - started a RMA


I can virtually guarantee that as long as you didn't connect any cables to the wrong headers that there is nothing wrong. It is just something that happens with MPS devices. I had the same thing happen with my pumps. Some persistence and experimentation with removing all power from the Aquaero and clean installing Aquasuite should get it fixed


----------



## Roikyou

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *madcratebuilder*
> 
> Did you set separate USB addresses for the pumps? After setting USB address change control priority to Aquabus (you can leave the USB cables connected). If you do not see what you expect then reboot the system.
> I would recommend you install HWInfo64 as the sensor monitoring software, it provides a lot more info and interfaces with Aqua Suite without problems.
> 
> The only problems I have encountered with Aquasuite 2014 - 1.3 is occasionally I do not get all MPS devices, I restart the program (Aqua Suite) and it's normally OK, if not I reboot.


I've tried hwinfo, same thing, rebooted many times, run as admin, etc.. refuses to pick up OHM or hwinfo. Missing something.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Roikyou*
> 
> I've tried hwinfo, same thing, rebooted many times, run as admin, etc.. refuses to pick up OHM or hwinfo. Missing something.


I've had the same issue. Had to factory default the device. Detach the device. Uninstall the software. Plugnit back re-update.


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> I've had the same issue. Had to factory default the device. Detach the device. Uninstall the software. Plugnit back re-update.


You need to go into Aquasuite and uninstall the aquasuite service and reinstall it.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> You need to go into Aquasuite and uninstall the aquasuite service and reinstall it.


yeah that wasn't enough to wake it up this timeso I reset the entire thing


----------



## Roikyou

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> I've had the same issue. Had to factory default the device. Detach the device. Uninstall the software. Plugnit back re-update.


I had that sneaky suspicion and really didn't want to go that route, I didn't want to have to set up the curve controllers again but I can if need be. Hwinfo started to work, I have my controllers running off my water temps since I have two inline water temps instead of software, so I'm good with that as long as I don't get a pop up every time from Hwinfo to start they're product.


----------



## kpoeticg

You can back up all your profiles and curves


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Roikyou*
> 
> I had that sneaky suspicion and really didn't want to go that route, I didn't want to have to set up the curve controllers again but I can if need be. Hwinfo started to work, I have my controllers running off my water temps since I have two inline water temps instead of software, so I'm good with that as long as I don't get a pop up every time from Hwinfo to start they're product.


It's the firmware update that wipes the settings, not the Aquasuite update. Unfortunately, the Aquasuite update is partially to blame because it doesn't let you save your profiles or in fact do anything until you update the firmware. Catch-22


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Roikyou*
> 
> I had that sneaky suspicion and really didn't want to go that route, I didn't want to have to set up the curve controllers again but I can if need be. Hwinfo started to work, I have my controllers running off my water temps since I have two inline water temps instead of software, so I'm good with that as long as I don't get a pop up every time from Hwinfo to start they're product.


I have found that open hardware monitor has the most data points out of all the freeware programs.


----------



## kpoeticg

I tried OHWM after seeing you guys talk about it in the old thread. I still can't get away from Aida tho. I got too dependant on the desktop widget


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> I tried OHWM after seeing you guys talk about it in the old thread. I still can't get away from Aida tho. I got too dependant on the desktop widget


but aida isn't free.


----------



## kpoeticg

True, the extreme edition isn't


----------



## Nornam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> It's the firmware update that wipes the settings, not the Aquasuite update. Unfortunately, the Aquasuite update is partially to blame because it doesn't let you save your profiles or in fact do anything until you update the firmware. Catch-22


Why not save your "Saved Profiles" to another folder other than the Aquasuite Default Folder???.... It only overwrites it's default folder saves, not your own folder save point....... Simples...









N.


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nornam*
> 
> Why not save your "Saved Profiles" to another folder other than the Aquasuite Default Folder???.... It only overwrites it's default folder saves, not your own folder save point....... Simples...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> N.


You misunderstand. It's the Aquaero itself that stores the fan curves and all other settings. Those settings are reset when you do a firmware update.

You can use Aquasuite to save and restore settings to and from the Aquaero. Aquasuite upgrade doesn't delete any saved profiles in the latest versions.

My point was that you need to save settings *before* upgrade of Aquasuite. Because if Aquasuite detects that the Aquaero needs a firmware update, it won't let you save or restore until you have done that. And then it's too late, the settings are gone.


----------



## madcratebuilder

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Roikyou*
> 
> I had that sneaky suspicion and really didn't want to go that route, I didn't want to have to set up the curve controllers again but I can if need be. Hwinfo started to work, I have my controllers running off my water temps since I have two inline water temps instead of software, *so I'm good with that as long as I don't get a pop up every time from Hwinfo to start they're product*.


That's controlled in the setup page of hwinfo64.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> I have found that open hardware monitor has the most data points out of all the freeware programs.


I think you well find that HWInfo has more, you may need to go into setup and assign this.

Quote:


> I tried OHWM after seeing you guys talk about it in the old thread. I still can't get away from Aida tho. I got too dependant on the desktop widget


HWInfo64 also has a desktop widget.


----------



## skupples

I was referring to the Aquaero picking up more points of info from OHW than HW64, not sure what assigning setup means though. I actually may be thinking of HW64.... I haven't re-installed the suite since reformatting last week.









you are correct... Just installed the suite... Had the two mixed up in my brains.


----------



## IT Diva

Hi guys,

I didn't fall off the planet or get killed on the Harley . . .

The internet is down at the house, so I'm a bit lacking in forum time for a while.

Darlene


----------



## skupples

I'm about ready to hulk smash these male PWM headers. I may just rip the black/yellow wires out then sleeve from the female side.


----------



## kpoeticg

There's a little clip you need to push. You could try extending a staple and sticking it in there. When you look inside the connector, you'll see the tiny path that's meant to release the pin. Sleeving's always much easier when you have the right tools.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> There's a little clip you need to push. You could try extending a staple and sticking it in there. When you look inside the connector, you'll see the tiny path that's meant to release the pin. Sleeving's always much easier when you have the right tools.


Yeah... I definitely don't have the "right tool" for the male adapters. I see where the pin is, and I have ripped one out after smashing my X-Acto-Knife into it for 5 minutes, but it is just so damn tiny.

An eye-glass flat head is perfect for the male heads though.

I'm going to take the dremel to one of my tiny files tomorrow, should be able to get it small enough to work.


----------



## kpoeticg

Yeah that would definitely work. All fan pins can be removed with household objects. I have every sleeving tool imaginable, and i still use an exacto knife for female fan pins.

Anything that can slide in that little space should do the trick. Just make sure you push the wire/pin forward before trying to pull it out. The pin being seated properly makes it easier to catch the little clip


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> Yeah that would definitely work. All fan pins can be removed with household objects. I have every sleeving tool imaginable, and i still use an exacto knife for female fan pins.
> 
> Anything that can slide in that little space should do the trick. *Just make sure you push the wire/pin forward before trying to pull it out.* The pin being seated properly makes it easier to catch the little clip


Overlooked but vital tip here.


----------



## skupples

Instead of wrecking one of my files I used it on a paper clip. It is working extremely well.


----------



## macforth

Boy!.... There certainly a heap to learn as to how to properly run the Aquaero 6 XT.... and what it can do for you.

I am running two PWM DDC pumps, two lots of fans, 4 temperature sensors, and an Aquacomputer Hi-Flow meter . I managed to setup a graph controller for each of the four plugged into the 4 fan outlets.

Now I am trying to get the information screen to show me my choice of "pages". The first screen choice was four temperature sensors. But try as I might, I can't get it to show the fourth. The four temp sensors are :

1 Ambient temperature
2 Water temperature into Rads
3 Water temperature out of Rads
4 Hard Disk drive Bay Temp.

I see all four when I check Sensors.. then Temperature sensors ; and in the Information page, I have moved the "available screen" marked as temperature sensor 1-4 across to the "Displayed Screens" side.

Although I see that screen displayed ( Temperature Sensor 1-4); there is no figures in the number four position. Did I miss something?

Another question:- What are the tiny subsections at the bottom of the screen marked F1, F2, F3, and F4 used for?

Cheers...... Macforth


----------



## avielcs

Hi all
Where do you recommend puting the 4 temp sensors that came with the aquaero?


----------



## madcratebuilder

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *avielcs*
> 
> Hi all
> Where do you recommend puting the 4 temp sensors that came with the aquaero?


Add a pair of Aquacomputer inline temperature sensors,, two sensors for rad fan air in and out, These four are probably the most important, you can use them to determine heat removed in watts. I also have sensors on the memory sticks.


----------



## avielcs

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *madcratebuilder*
> 
> Add a pair of Aquacomputer inline temperature sensors,, two sensors for rad fan air in and out, These four are probably the most important, you can use them to determine heat removed in watts. I also have sensors on the memory sticks.


Got it, wher should i put them?
On the fans or between the rad and fan?


----------



## Roikyou

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *avielcs*
> 
> Got it, wher should i put them?
> On the fans or between the rad and fan?


Would the air in and the air out really differ that much? I would think unless you've got an issue, the case temp should be the same as the ambient temp outside the case. I would think if you are going to place a temp sensor on the input and output of the air flow, somewhere in the air flow, mid point in the fans, somewhere not to get sucked into a fan but not to stick out like a sore thumb also.

Personally, I have two inline temp sensors after cpu radiator and after gpu radiator, (I think the cpu tends to be a little higher but they're close to the same). I usually see the water sit around the outside ambient when at idle and water kicks up to about 24 c under load, very quiet running machine which was my goal.

I've got temp sensors for in the case but have yet to get off my can and add them but I've got to do some wiring cleanup also, so maybe when I do that, I'll add the sensors.


----------



## DanielCoffey

For a new AQ6, at what point would using the water block be advised?

I am intending to use the AQ6 in a fairly simple WC build consisting of two 360s push/pull, one 120mm exhaust fan, one D5 Vario and one BP water temp sensor. I have not settled on whether my fans should be PWM or non-PWM yet.

Do you reckon I should just use the heatsink or go the whole hog and WC it too?


----------



## skupples

The water block is only "required" when pushing like 40+ fans.


----------



## DanielCoffey

That is good to know, thanks. Heatsink it is then.


----------



## badkarma3059

Now I am curious. What are peoples temps on their aquaero 6s. Im running 12 fans and mine is in the 30's


----------



## Roikyou

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *badkarma3059*
> 
> Now I am curious. What are peoples temps on their aquaero 6s. Im running 12 fans and mine is in the 30's


I didn't add that to the display pages but I might do that, curious what acceptable temps are without heat sinks or water cooling.


----------



## badkarma3059

likewise. I'm running NF-F12's and they don't pull as much as a lot of other fans but I am still curious what other temps others are getting.


----------



## MeanBruce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *badkarma3059*
> 
> Now I am curious. What are peoples temps on their aquaero 6s. Im running 12 fans and mine is in the 30's


30s is good, do you mean CPU temps?

Only 5 fans here, at 600 to 800rpm, two on H100i at 700rpm core temps 28C to 32C lowest to highest core, 4.5Ghz. I have 4 NF-F12s, the Sanyo fans give about a 2C to 4C drop over the Noctuas same rpm, depending on OC.

and they are only $17.99 about the same as NF-F12s currently.

Oh, you meant Aquaero heatsink temps, sorry bout that, my heatsink actually feels cold to the touch directly over the VRMs if that helps.









edit: just checked in AquaSuite Aquaero CPU temp 29.67C, I placed some of the thermal pad that came with the red heatsink over the A6 CPU even though the instructions did not say to, there was so much extra TIM, I just went ahead and covered everything.









I guess my A6 CPU temp will go up when I add an AquaComputer D5 Aquabus pump next week, only Shoggy would know the answer to that.


----------



## badkarma3059

Yeah, 30 for the aquaero. Thats with no add on heatsink


----------



## Jakusonfire

Its not the CPU temps that climb with load it is the Fan Amplifiers. The Amps on a AQ6 will not even get warm unless there is very high load placed on them. The Heatsink won't do much because it is not finned, it is really more like just an adaptor for the water block.

The Aq5 needed a heatsink because the amps rise in temp with even a relatively mild load and undervolting. My amps are at 50C now running 11 fans at 7V. When the Amps hit like 90 degrees or so the Aq5 will ramp up volts to 12V til amp temps drop again. With too high a load and not enough cooling the fans will continually rise and fall in speed as the Aquaero struggles to cope.

The power handling on the Aq6 is completely different and does not cause the same heating except at very high load levels. An Aquabus D5 will not cause any heating at all unless for some reason you are pointlessly running its power through the Aquaero.


----------



## madcratebuilder

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *avielcs*
> 
> Got it, wher should i put them?
> On the fans or between the rad and fan?


Between fan and rad. Just the tip of the sensor needs to be in the air stream. You can see the sensors in this pic, right end of rad.


Here are the temps I see with a 240 and a 120 rad, [email protected], EK blocks on cpu, mosfets and gpu (280X) full load with p95 and FM.



I've swapped the 120 rad for a 360 and hope to see even lower temps when I'm finished.


----------



## JottaD

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *madcratebuilder*
> 
> Between fan and rad. Just the tip of the sensor needs to be in the air stream. You can see the sensors in this pic, right end of rad.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here are the temps I see with a 240 and a 120 rad, [email protected], EK blocks on cpu, mosfets and gpu (280X) full load with p95 and FM.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've swapped the 120 rad for a 360 and hope to see even lower temps when I'm finished.




How do you get the power measurement1 ?


----------



## Jakusonfire

I found putting the sensors too close to the rad can cause it to be affected by radiant heat. My air sensors are in front of the fans and that section is fully sealed off from the case with neoprene so no air can recirculate back to the sensor. If you graph the ambient or air in temp and it rises with load then it is being affected. Mine stays perfectly flat as load increases.


----------



## madcratebuilder

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JottaD*
> 
> 
> 
> How do you get the power measurement1 ?


You need to have temp sensors on the rad for coolant IN and coolant OUT, plus ambient air temp. I use the rad fan IN temp. This gives you a approximate wattage of heat energy removed.

Use the temp sensor offsets to get all the sensors reading the same temp. I'll leave the case open overnight with a small fan circulating air in the case. Before you power up use the AQ6 panel to look at all the temp sensor reading (AQ6 is always on from the usb power feed), record the differences and then adjust in the offset column. Of 6 sensors, 5 had a +/- of .5C or less, 1 was 1.2C off. You can also use a DVM to measure the Ohm resistance of each sensor, the target is 10k ohm.


----------



## Jakusonfire

For power measurement you need two temp sensors and a flow sensor. The Aquaero calculates the heat energy generated or lost by comparing the temp change and flow rate.


----------



## JottaD

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *madcratebuilder*
> 
> You need to have temp sensors on the rad for coolant IN and coolant OUT, plus ambient air temp. I use the rad fan IN temp. This gives you a approximate wattage of heat energy removed.
> 
> Use the temp sensor offsets to get all the sensors reading the same temp. I'll leave the case open overnight with a small fan circulating air in the case. Before you power up use the AQ6 panel to look at all the temp sensor reading (AQ6 is always on from the usb power feed), record the differences and then adjust in the offset column. Of 6 sensors, 5 had a +/- of .5C or less, 1 was 1.2C off. You can also use a DVM to measure the Ohm resistance of each sensor, the target is 10k ohm.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> For power measurement you need two temp sensors and a flow sensor. The Aquaero calculates the heat energy generated or lost by comparing the temp change and flow rate.


thanks again
I will try it , I have a inline sensor before the radiator and another one after the radiator and a USB flow sensor


----------



## MeanBruce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> Its not the CPU temps that climb with load it is the Fan Amplifiers. The Amps on a AQ6 will not even get warm unless there is very high load placed on them. The Heatsink won't do much because it is not finned, it is really more like just an adaptor for the water block.
> 
> The Aq5 needed a heatsink because the amps rise in temp with even a relatively mild load and undervolting. My amps are at 50C now running 11 fans at 7V. When the Amps hit like 90 degrees or so the Aq5 will ramp up volts to 12V til amp temps drop again. With too high a load and not enough cooling the fans will continually rise and fall in speed as the Aquaero struggles to cope.
> 
> The power handling on the Aq6 is completely different and does not cause the same heating except at very high load levels. An Aquabus D5 will not cause any heating at all unless for some reason you are pointlessly running its power through the Aquaero.


The way Shoggy originally described the new digital VRM as one of the many A6 advancements it seemed very few people would truly need to add the water block unlike the Aquaero 5. I think most enthusiasts including myself just purchased the red heatsink for aesthetic reasons, to complete the look and it is a beautifully engineered sink. I'll never use more than seven fans and one Aquabus D5, so mine will most likely never get warm, but I'm happy AquaComputer took the time to design and create the part, the Aquaero is like nothing else available on the planet and deserves to be complemented with additions to the delivery.

Thanks for your input. +1.


----------



## siffonen

Quick question, i ordered aquaero 6 and i want to control my pump speed with it. Pump is d5 with the red speed knob and blue rpm signal wire, is it ok to connect the pump to one of the fan connectors of aquaero? It can handle the power, but is this a good way to control this pump, which dont have pwm control.


----------



## DanielCoffey

The signal wire on the D5 Vario will only report the pump rpm. It is not possible to control the rpm of that that specific pump from the AQ6.


----------



## siffonen

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DanielCoffey*
> 
> The signal wire on the D5 Vario will only report the pump rpm. It is not possible to control the rpm of that that specific pump from the AQ6.


Yeah i know that, but i meant that i use a normal 3-pin fan connector and attach pumps all 3 wires with that to aq6 fan connector, and control the voltage going to pump with aq6.

edit. found the answer from the other Aquaero 6 thread, it can be done and aquacomputer used similar setup in their performance demonstration video which i should have watche paying more attention


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *siffonen*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *DanielCoffey*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *siffonen*
> 
> Quick question, i ordered aquaero 6 and i want to control my pump speed with it. Pump is d5 with the red speed knob and blue rpm signal wire, is it ok to connect the pump to one of the fan connectors of aquaero? It can handle the power, but is this a good way to control this pump, which dont have pwm control.
> 
> 
> 
> The signal wire on the D5 Vario will only report the pump rpm. It is not possible to control the rpm of that that specific pump from the AQ6.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Yeah i know that, but i meant that i use a normal 3-pin fan connector and attach pumps all 3 wires with that to aq6 fan connector, and control the voltage going to pump with aq6.
> 
> edit. found the answer from the other Aquaero 6 thread, it can be done and aquacomputer used similar setup in their performance demonstration video which i should have watche paying more attention
Click to expand...

Yeah, BUT sounds like you have a D5 Vario ("with the red speed knob") which does not like to be voltage controlled, unlike a D5 model without the speed control knob on the bottom. I've not tried it or run into it myself, but have read that about the issue. I've seen posts where people modded their D5 vario to bypass the built-in pot or whatever it is so that it could be voltage controlled.

Perhaps Darlene knows something / could expand on this.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> For power measurement you need two temp sensors and a flow sensor. The Aquaero calculates the heat energy generated or lost by comparing the temp change and flow rate.


I wonder how accurate this is.


----------



## madcratebuilder

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> I wonder how accurate this is.


From the manual. I said air temp sensor earlier, that's incorrect, you need a flow sensor and the two rad temps.

Quote:


> 11.5. Power measurement
> Up to four independent power measurements can be configured to calculate
> dissipated or absorbed power in up to for cooling loops. Prerequisites are
> two water temperature sensors and a flow sensor in the same cooling loop.
> The water temperature sensors are optimally installed into radiator inlet and
> outlet port.
> The aquaero calculates the current power dissipation using the temperature
> difference between two temperature sensors and the current flow rate. Water
> ha a thermal capacity of 4187 Ws/(kg * K), meaning an energy of 4187 Ws
> is required to increase the temperate of 1 kg of water by 1 Kelvin.
> Power = thermal capacity * volume flow * temperature difference
> Due to inaccuracies of temperature and flow sensors and temperature inertia
> of the cooling system, power measurement is a bit problematic in general.
> Especially during system start up, the actual power dissipation will differ significantly
> from values calculated by the aquaero. Furthermore, any coolant
> additive alters the thermal capacity, this is factored in in the aquaero. The
> power measurement functionality should therefore just be seen as an interesting
> additional information.
> In the device menu, each data source can be selected from a list of available
> sensors. In the aquasuite, data sources from the sensor list can be assigned
> to the corresponding areas labeled "Flow sensor", "Temperature sensor 1"
> and "Temperature sensor 2" using drag&drop. Existing assignments can be
> deleted by clicking the red "X" symbol.


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> I wonder how accurate this is.


Just depends how accurate your sensors are. Its never going to lab quality because you are measuring the temp of a fitting that is warmed by the water that is warmed by what ever is producing (or dispersing) heat. Its really just an indication, but is pretty accurate after everything has warmed up.


----------



## siffonen

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *siffonen*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *DanielCoffey*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *siffonen*
> 
> Quick question, i ordered aquaero 6 and i want to control my pump speed with it. Pump is d5 with the red speed knob and blue rpm signal wire, is it ok to connect the pump to one of the fan connectors of aquaero? It can handle the power, but is this a good way to control this pump, which dont have pwm control.
> 
> 
> 
> The signal wire on the D5 Vario will only report the pump rpm. It is not possible to control the rpm of that that specific pump from the AQ6.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Yeah i know that, but i meant that i use a normal 3-pin fan connector and attach pumps all 3 wires with that to aq6 fan connector, and control the voltage going to pump with aq6.
> 
> edit. found the answer from the other Aquaero 6 thread, it can be done and aquacomputer used similar setup in their performance demonstration video which i should have watche paying more attention
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Yeah, BUT sounds like you have a D5 Vario ("with the red speed knob") which does not like to be voltage controlled, unlike a D5 model without the speed control knob on the bottom. I've not tried it or run into it myself, but have read that about the issue. I've seen posts where people modded their D5 vario to bypass the built-in pot or whatever it is so that it could be voltage controlled.
> 
> Perhaps Darlene knows something / could expand on this.
Click to expand...

Damn, i wish that it could work with speed knob in highest position and then control the voltage.

Lähetetty minun HTC One laitteesta Tapatalkilla


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *siffonen*
> 
> Damn, i wish that it could work with speed knob in highest position and then control the voltage. [...]


Perhaps it can, as I'm really not sure what all the issues with doing that were. I just recall seeing posts like these:

http://hardforum.com/showthread.php?t=1068890 <- After reading the OP, see post 8 and after.
http://forum.overclock3d.net/showthread.php?t=59972

And so on. I know that I've seen quite a few more detailed posts similar to those here on OCN and elsewhere, but my google-fu is FAIL trying to find any of them. Took some effort just to find those.

In any case, I suspect Darlene or someone here that will know for sure what, if any, actual issues there might be trying to voltage control a D5 Vario with an Aquaero.

FWIW, there's not a lot of reason imho to not just set your D5 vario to whatever the highest speed that you're comfortable with noise-wise and leave it there. AFAICT changing pump speeds on my D5 has had very little if any effect on my loop temps.


----------



## Jakusonfire

The problem is the D5 vario control system is not simply based on reducing voltage. It is reasonably complex motor speed control system. If you look at the Video of the Aquaero 6 running 2 D5's it shows the screen running one of the pumps. It is reduced to 65% power or 7.7V but the pump speed has only dropped from 4800 to just under 4300.
Just putting the pump on a fan controller will never give the same range of control as the built in system.


----------



## siffonen

Thanks all guys, i`ll just use pump in one speed only. Btw should i get pump speed through a mb fan connector? I have connect the wire in one fan connector in my maximus iv, but didnt get any readings of rpm.


----------



## badkarma3059

You can use the mobo cpu fan header to read speed off the tach wire if you wish


----------



## MeanBruce

Anyone using the AquaComputer Aquabus D5 pump with the Aquaero 6? Do you find it in AquaSuite under D5 pump connected via aquabus?

Picking up one next week, hoping able to decouple and isolate it from the CL motherboard slightly noisy tray.

How low rpms can you run the AC Aquabus while maintaining solid temps?

Please come back Darlene, we miss you...









...


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MeanBruce*
> 
> Anyone using the AquaComputer Aquabus D5 pump with the Aquaero 6? Do you find it in AquaSuite under D5 pump connected via aquabus?
> 
> Picking up one next week, hoping able to decouple and isolate it from the CL motherboard slightly noisy tray.
> 
> How low rpms can you run the AC Aquabus while maintaining solid temps?
> 
> Please come back Darlene, we miss you...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ...


I check in as often as I can, but work has been brutal lately . . .

Haven't really had a whole day off for about 3 weeks . . . .

I should be back to having weekends off by next weekend









If there's anyone who wants to be added to the owners list of the 1st page, please PM me, and I'll do it as soon as I can get the time.

Darlene


----------



## Kimir

Or you could use the google form I send you so owners could add themselves to the owner list.










Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



https://docs.google.com/forms/d/1LNfbnllkw0UmOfJI0w6yh62IMVXR_PefcIPHpuqAB6M/viewform?embedded=true
*Form: OCN Aquaero Owners Club*

*OCN Aquaero Owners Club list.*
https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1dnR0bdQbic9RUgUFUS22TPfyCPUJadnQHTdjH05PjJ8/pubhtml?widget=true


----------



## madcratebuilder

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MeanBruce*
> 
> Anyone using the AquaComputer Aquabus D5 pump with the Aquaero 6? Do you find it in AquaSuite under D5 pump connected via aquabus?
> 
> Picking up one next week, hoping able to decouple and isolate it from the CL motherboard slightly noisy tray.
> 
> How low rpms can you run the AC Aquabus while maintaining solid temps?
> 
> Please come back Darlene, we miss you...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ...


I have dual AQ D5's and they are set to 60% (3.4Lpm) almost no noise/vibration. They are on a xspc dual bay res and that is about the noisiest way to mount them. They quietest way to mount the D5 is to just hang it from the hose.

The AQ D5 shows up as a MPS device and it shows up in the Suite menu.
Quote:


> 15.2. D5 pumps connected via aquabus
> For D5 pumps connected to the aquaero by aquabus connection, a name
> can be set and the output range can be limited in both directions ("Minimum
> power"/"Maximum power"). D5 pumps connected via aquabus can not be
> switched off, a pump "power" of 0 % corresponds to the minimum speed setting
> of the pump.
> Please note: D5 pumps connected to a fan output will be controlled as a
> "fan" and can be switched off by the aquaero.


----------



## MeanBruce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *madcratebuilder*
> 
> I have dual AQ D5's and they are set to 60% (3.4Lpm) almost no noise/vibration. They are on a xspc dual bay res and that is about the noisiest way to mount them. They quietest way to mount the D5 is to just hang it from the hose.
> 
> The AQ D5 shows up as a MPS device and it shows up in the Suite menu.


Was just going to connect the D5 to the Aquabus HIGH port on the Aquaero 6, is there an advantage to connecting it as a fan? hmmm

I have to mount my D5 lateral and below the video card so using an EK D5 UNI base mount bolting it to the rear of the M8 chassis/removable mobo tray. It comes with rubber feet, if that's not enough may go with a Shoggy sandwich cutting a hole in the middle slipping the pump down inside. Dunno, maybe I'm stressing way too much over pump noise.

Pick up the AquaComputer Aquabus D5 on Monday, PPCS is sleeving it right now with BitsPower ultra-thick black sleeve, cost an extra $8, hoping it turns out ok.









Sorry for moving a bit off topic.

http://s1177.photobucket.com/user/MeanBruce/media/IMG_6932_zpsdb04bf2b.jpg.html

http://s1177.photobucket.com/user/MeanBruce/media/IMG_6934_zpsaf2273b8.jpg.html


----------



## madcratebuilder

I only have experience with these 2 D5's and only in a bay res. They can make noise, mostly caused by vibration, I'm working on decoupling the pumps/res from the case but there's no "good" solution. If I run at 60%+/- the noise isn't bad at all. At 100% it's noticeable. This is common with the bay res from what I've read. I see the "sandwich" recommended a lot.


----------



## TATH

I have two D5 with usb running at 75% 4,3 liter a minute. Because i also use the Aquacomputer pomp tops i orderd the special yellow vibration rubbers. I wasnt alble to connect them up yet to Aquabus but i am planning to do so when i made the cables (splitters). I must say that the are complete silence "and that with no door in the case.

I couth use just the usb for controlling them but then i dont see them in the Aquero section just in Aquasuite.

If you have a lot of vibration in the pomptop you can always put a acrylic plate under it and put a few anti vibration rubbers under it.
The are from Aquacomputer the yellow ones.


----------



## madcratebuilder

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TATH*
> 
> I have two D5 with usb running at 75% 4,3 liter a minute. Because i also use the Aquacomputer pomp tops i orderd the special yellow vibration rubbers. I wasnt alble to connect them up yet to Aquabus but i am planning to do so when i made the cables (splitters). I must say that the are complete silence "and that with no door in the case.
> 
> I couth use just the usb for controlling them but then i dont see them in the Aquero section just in Aquasuite.
> 
> If you have a lot of vibration in the pomptop you can always put a acrylic plate under it and put a few anti vibration rubbers under it.
> The are from Aquacomputer the yellow ones.


I haven't seen those yellow rubbers, I'll check it out, thanks.

ETA: Those look like they would do the job, sadly not with res mounted pumps.


----------



## SeeThruHead

@IT Diva and anyone else here who likes to make their own stuff. Does anyone know why I can buy the 4 pin fan connectors for PWM fans. Specifically looking for right angle versions. I know they molex KK 2.54pitch connectors. But the 4 pin ones you can buy have the friction lock for 4 pins instead of 3 pins like the ones on motherboards. Surely there's some place to buy these?


----------



## Ironsmack

Hey guys,

I have a Lamptron fan controller and very satisfied with it. But one thing that i wish it could do is ramp up all fans on my case rather than based on per channel and sensor.

I currently have (8) AP15's attached to (2) 480 rads. Would do Aquaero be able to ramp all (8) fans whether there's a load to the CPU or GPU or Both?


----------



## TATH

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ironsmack*
> 
> Hey guys,
> 
> I have a Lamptron fan controller and very satisfied with it. But one thing that i wish it could do is ramp up all fans on my case rather than based on per channel and sensor.
> 
> I currently have (8) AP15's attached to (2) 480 rads. Would do Aquaero be able to ramp all (8) fans whether there's a load to the CPU or GPU or Both?


The Aquero 6 can handle more then you can put in.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ironsmack*
> 
> Hey guys,
> 
> I have a Lamptron fan controller and very satisfied with it. But one thing that i wish it could do is ramp up all fans on my case rather than based on per channel and sensor.
> 
> I currently have (8) AP15's attached to (2) 480 rads. Would do Aquaero be able to ramp all (8) fans whether there's a load to the CPU or GPU or Both?


Yes, you can control each individual fan header through software to do w/e you want them to do.


----------



## DanielCoffey

You could also split the fans into two of the headers - one per rad - and either give both of them the same fan curve in the software or have one completely off while the computer is idling.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ironsmack*
> 
> Hey guys,
> 
> I have a Lamptron fan controller and very satisfied with it. But one thing that i wish it could do is ramp up all fans on my case rather than based on per channel and sensor.
> 
> I currently have (8) AP15's attached to (2) 480 rads. Would do Aquaero be able to ramp all (8) fans whether there's a load to the CPU or GPU or Both?


Don't know what model Lamptron you have, but you should be able to do what you want by having all 8 AP15s on 1 channel. That way you could automatically control the channel with just one sensor.


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SeeThruHead*
> 
> @IT Diva and anyone else here who likes to make their own stuff. Does anyone know why I can buy the 4 pin fan connectors for PWM fans. Specifically looking for right angle versions. I know they molex KK 2.54pitch connectors. But the 4 pin ones you can buy have the friction lock for 4 pins instead of 3 pins like the ones on motherboards. Surely there's some place to buy these?


Not exactly sure from your description if you mean male or female, housing or open or to attach to motherboard. Can you see the part you want on Molex.com? If so then Mouser or Digikey should have it.


----------



## TATH

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> Not exactly sure from your description if you mean male or female, housing or open or to attach to motherboard. Can you see the part you want on Molex.com? If so then Mouser or Digikey should have it.


MDPC !

http://en.mdpc-x.com/mdpc-crimping/4-pin-molex-black-housing.htm


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TATH*
> 
> MDPC !
> 
> http://en.mdpc-x.com/mdpc-crimping/4-pin-molex-black-housing.htm


Naturally Nils has perfect fan connectors, but I presumed @SeeThruHead wanted something non-standard with the mention of "right-angle versions" and "friction lock".


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

I've been stalling / fence sitting on whether or not I want to get the Aquaero 6 LT. I currently have a Lamptron CW611 that I'm considering a transplant to another build. Actually I definitely know that I want the AQ6, but I'm more than a little intimidated by it and don't really know where best to start gathering more info about it. That's the main reason I hopped on this thread so I could maybe learn a thing or two more about it.

I've been hoping that by now someone would have a pretty in-depth video review of it on Youtube hopefully with a discussion of the software and different ways it can be used / set up, but all I'm seeing so far are AQ5 vids or just the short demo of the AQ6 from AquaComputer. I have the 'aquaero_5_6_en' manual and have skimmed though it, but it would make a lot more sense to me if I could actually see it in action. Are there any Aquero 6 review vids out there yet that I just haven't been able to find?

Edit: Just for example, One thing I'm interested in is what ways it can be set up to automatically shut down the computer in the event of a leak or pump failure. Like, can it be setup to auto-shutdown the computer in the event of a sudden drop in the flow rate? Is that possible or is there a better/quicker indicator than flow rate to monitor & what all would be needed & how to set it up to enable it to auto-shutdown?


----------



## badkarma3059

I was on the fence about getting one as well. My buddy finally talked me into it. These things grow on you like a fungus!! Things are very easy to set up. I can't imagine that I was thinking of doing my build with out one. Rad outflow, gpu outflow (last part of the look before pump) pump flow, intake temp. All covered and super easy to set up. Honestly, if you have the funds to get one go for it. You will not regret it


----------



## skupples

Should demand Stren to make one.


----------



## SeeThruHead

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> Not exactly sure from your description if you mean male or female, housing or open or to attach to motherboard. Can you see the part you want on Molex.com? If so then Mouser or Digikey should have it.


Haven't been able to find a picture of it anywhere online.
Except here:


I can find plenty of these:



and the straight version:


What I need is the above pic ^ with right angle pins. And i'd like to avoid having to swap the pins manually. or trimming the tab on the middle picture.


----------



## Ironsmack

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> Yes, you can control each individual fan header through software to do w/e you want them to do.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TATH*
> 
> The Aquero 6 can handle more then you can put in.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Don't know what model Lamptron you have, but you should be able to do what you want by having all 8 AP15s on 1 channel. That way you could automatically control the channel with just one sensor.


Sorry guys, i should've been more clear. Currently i have the Lamptron touch control. This is my setup:

-Chan 1/Sensor on GPU - (4) GT AP15's
-Chan 2/Sensor on CPU - (4) GT AP15's
-Chan 3 - Case fans
-Chan 4 - Case fans

As you can see, if either CPU or GPU has load - only those fans ramp up. But it ramps up from 40% to 100% load. It doesn't gradually ramps up as temp rises.

My goal is, i would like to autonomously ramp the fans (gradually) as temp rises. So whether there's a load on either CPU/GPU or both - the fan control will be able to ramp up all fans.

I hope i explained myself clear here.

And if the Aquaero is able to do this, which model do you guys recommend?


----------



## TATH

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ironsmack*
> 
> Sorry guys, i should've been more clear. Currently i have the Lamptron touch control. This is my setup:
> 
> -Chan 1/Sensor on GPU - (4) GT AP15's
> -Chan 2/Sensor on CPU - (4) GT AP15's
> -Chan 3 - Case fans
> -Chan 4 - Case fans
> 
> As you can see, if either CPU or GPU has load - only those fans ramp up. But it ramps up from 40% to 100% load. It doesn't gradually ramps up as temp rises.
> 
> My goal is, i would like to autonomously ramp the fans (gradually) as temp rises. So whether there's a load on either CPU/GPU or both - the fan control will be able to ramp up all fans.
> 
> I hope i explained myself clear here.
> 
> And if the Aquaero is able to do this, which model do you guys recommend?


The Aquero 6 Pro.


----------



## MeanBruce

Is there any advantage to placing two thermal sensors in a 360 rad fluid in and fluid out then to the Aquaero 6 sensors?

These are about 9bucks and screw into any G1/4, and the rad has two extra ports.

http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_346_1026_1141_1142&products_id=35499

Elsewhere in the loop I'll have CPU temp and Pump temp.

Might be cool to check radiator Delta's at various fan and pump rpm's and fan types and for setting an alarm are all I can think of.

I'm thinking there might be a hidden tuning sweet spot that will only be revealed by the Aquaero and AquaSuite, and I have no idea what I'm talking about.









...


----------



## badkarma3059

That should work out fine.I used phobya flow through sensors at the last rads outflow, the coolest point in the loop, then at the two gpus outflow point. That being the last heated components in the loop. Thats just how my noobish brain was thinking at the time. Sounded good to measure the flowing water "in line"

http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_239_1089&products_id=38623

Either way should work just fine


----------



## madcratebuilder

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MeanBruce*
> 
> Is there any advantage to placing two thermal sensors in a 360 rad fluid in and fluid out then to the Aquaero 6 sensors?
> 
> These are about 9bucks and screw into any G1/4, and the rad has two extra ports.
> 
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_346_1026_1141_1142&products_id=35499
> 
> Elsewhere in the loop I'll have CPU temp and Pump temp.
> 
> Might be cool to check radiator Delta's at various fan and pump rpm's and fan types and for setting an alarm are all I can think of.
> 
> I'm thinking there might be a hidden tuning sweet spot that will only be revealed by the Aquaero and AquaSuite, and I have no idea what I'm talking about.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Coolant in and out temps can be used to show heat watts removed by the rad.



Having the coolant temp in and out can aid in finding best flow rates, fan speeds, the possibilities are endless.

This is the sensor you want to use.


----------



## MeanBruce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *madcratebuilder*
> 
> Coolant in and out temps can be used to show heat watts removed by the rad.
> 
> 
> 
> Having the coolant temp in and out can aid in finding best flow rates, fan speeds, the possibilities are endless.
> 
> This is the sensor you want to use.


So amazing, I'll dig into the Aquaero manual and set that up, the Aquaero just keeps on giving.









The AquaComputer Aquabus D5, well this one at least says "Alarm" in green instead of TACHO, hope its not an older revision. The sleeving is so well done by PPCS, thanks guys you so rock, only Darlene could possibly do a finer job.









edit: the sleeving is Bitspower Ultra-Black, really happy with the results.

http://s1177.photobucket.com/user/MeanBruce/media/IMG_6961_zpsb4d18665.jpg.html


----------



## badkarma3059

Now that is some sexy pump porn. After getting the hang of my 6XT, I really wish I had got the aquacomputer D5 instead of my alphacool.


----------



## MeanBruce

The Aquaero 6 XT and AquaComputer Aquabus D5 and AquaSuite 2014 were just made for each other, I decided on the pump way back in September 2013, when the A6 was first announced by Shoggy

Thanks Shoggdawg.









edit: of course we had to wait until December 2013 to finally get our hands on the Aquaero 6 so plenty of time elapsed for decisions to be made on a new (first) loop.









...


----------



## MeanBruce

Desktop mess.


----------



## MeanBruce

Liquid Substrates from Pope, CaseLabs and the Aquaero:


----------



## sinnedone

Hello All, was wondering if someone could help me with some questions I have about the 5 LT.

Was looking online and I believe its rated at 1.6 amps per channel, is this correct? I have 10 .30 amp fans to connect and want to make sure since there are only 4 channels.

Was also reading something about led and rgb control. If this is correct can someone shed some light on this subject? I think it said 2 channels for leds, and want to make sure. If leds are controllable, do they simply on and off or can voltage be varied to dim lighting?

Thanks in advance.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sinnedone*
> 
> Hello All, was wondering if someone could help me with some questions I have about the 5 LT.
> 
> Was looking online and I believe its rated at 1.6 amps per channel, is this correct? I have 10 .30 amp fans to connect and want to make sure since there are only 4 channels.
> 
> Was also reading something about led and rgb control. If this is correct can someone shed some light on this subject? I think it said 2 channels for leds, and want to make sure. If leds are controllable, do they simply on and off or can voltage be varied to dim lighting?
> 
> Thanks in advance.


If I recall correctly, Shoggy said the max for a channel was 1.65A, but that the total for all 4 channels was 5A.

Keep in mind that the 5 series gets hot quickly at mid range output voltages, so be sure to use the passive heatsink at a minimum, or opt for the water block if you plan to push it.

If you need to have 2 chans more loaded than the others, use 1 and 4 for the heavier loads, as that will take most advantage of the heatsink, especially if using the passive one.

Darlene


----------



## sinnedone

Thanks IT Diva. That 5 amp tidbit is some good info. The fans Im planning on running equal 3 amps so it would be good.

Any idea about the led and rgb led control? I looked though a manual listed on their site and it said something about this.


----------



## kpoeticg

There's 2 2Pin PWM Headers for LED's. Each header can handle 1A. The actual RGB header can only handle one rgb led or 3 single color led's unless you buy the rgb amp that jeak from the aquacomputer forums makes.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> There's 2 2Pin PWM Headers for LED's. Each header can handle 1A. The actual RGB header can only handle one rgb led or 3 single color led's unless you buy the rgb amp that jeak from the aquacomputer forums makes.


You ended up getting one of the Jeak amps correct? How did that work out for you? Been debating getting one... I need to light up this sexy window in an epic fashion.


----------



## sinnedone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> There's 2 2Pin PWM Headers for LED's. Each header can handle 1A. The actual RGB header can only handle one rgb led or 3 single color led's unless you buy the rgb amp that jeak from the aquacomputer forums makes.


Thanks

I wonder how much an led strip is. Going to have to research that.

What is this amp you speak of?


----------



## kpoeticg

The Jeak Amp works amazing. It has headers for 3 RGB Strips. It works real well with the Aquaero at mixing colors too.

It gets it's power from Molex, so no worries about overloading the headers. I can run my full 5Meter 5050 strip off one header.

@sinnedone Search "SMD 5050 300 RGB" on amazon or ebay. You can get full kits for less than 20 bux wth the remote & power supply. You have to PM Jeak on the AC forums to get the amp. I think i payed like 25 altogether for the amp. Like 17 for the amp + paypal & shipping to the US


----------



## skupples

Definitely going to hit him up. I really like how you can daisy chain them! Now I just gotta order some PWM headers, & some extra 26AWG.


----------



## kpoeticg

He actually ships the amp with 3 PWM connectors and the pins for em so you can plug in your RGB Strips. He also sells RGB Strips if you wanna save some time. I had one already so don't know how much he charges for em.


----------



## skupples

I still have ~10ft of some non-insulated RGB Stripping, but it is rather meh... I will have to see which strips, & @ w/ $.

The main thing i'm looking to do is light up that window w/ RGB LEDs. The Acrylic man drilled 8 holes, 2x on each side... Will likely be a bit over kill.









oh, and hopefully the bridges i have will still work through the amp, i don't see why not though. I have 6 strips all linked up with 5x bridges.


----------



## kpoeticg

Le Bestia did a sweet job on that window for you btw









Any regular LED's will work off the amp as long as they're wire correct. If they're RGB Led's, they just need to be common anode (which most are). The Aquaero RGB header is common cathode, which is why it needs a specialized amp to run rgb strips. Common anode is a +V and 3 Grounds to combine the colors. The Aquaero is 3 +V's and one ground to combine the colors. They probly designed it that way so you could choose to run 3 single led's if you wanted

I posted a bunch of pics in the old thread of the strip working off the amp. That red strip is just a single color strip i was running straight off the aquaero


----------



## siffonen

Here is mine Aquero 6 pro with custom faceplate in a 900D


----------



## TATH

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> You ended up getting one of the Jeak amps correct? How did that work out for you? Been debating getting one... I need to light up this sexy window in an epic fashion.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


That is beautiful.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Folks, about the d5 PWM problem reported for Swiftech pumps (in terms of not following intel specs and therefore causing a problem with its control through Aquaero) I am curious. Is that a problem only in the Swiftech re-branded PWM d5 pumps or that is actually something that applies to all d5 pwm like this: http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_201&products_id=37680 ????

I think what XSPC and Swiftech do is just get the PWM version directly from Laing and place their stickers there. So the " problem" will be the implementation of PWM made by Laing but I would like to confirm that since is only a suspicion at this moment.

Anyone have data on this subject?

Cheers

EDIT- Just saw that EK is also offering a d5 PWM:

http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_439_770&products_id=40372


----------



## madcratebuilder

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Folks, about the d5 PWM problem reported for Swiftech pumps (in terms of not following intel specs and therefore causing a problem with its control through Aquaero) I am curious. Is that a problem only in the Swiftech re-branded PWM d5 pumps or that is actually something that applies to all d5 pwm like this: http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_201&products_id=37680 ????
> 
> I think what XSPC and Swiftech do is just get the PWM version directly from Laing and place their stickers there. So the " problem" will be the implementation of PWM made by Laing but I would like to confirm that since is only a suspicion at this moment.
> 
> Anyone have data on this subject?
> 
> Cheers
> 
> EDIT- Just saw that EK is also offering a d5 PWM:
> 
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_439_770&products_id=40372


Have you looked at this D5 pump?


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *madcratebuilder*
> 
> Have you looked at this D5 pump?


Yep, thks but that is not a pwm pump. It is a perfect match for the Aquaero but that is not the question. The question is for those who already own the d5 pwm and I am trying to figure out if all pwm suffer from the same problem. I would say they do after a confirmation from Swiftech rep that Laing implement and manufacture the d5 pwm for them. I would suspect strongly that all branded d5 pwm (ek and XSPC) have the same pwm control non conforming to intel specs.


----------



## MeanBruce

Wish I had an answer. Considered a less expensive D5 pump for my loop like the Swiftech and EK at $89 but had also read of some incompatibility issues with pwm and the 5-selector speed D5 Varios. Just wanted to avoid all issues and minimize any extraneous variables entered into the Aquaero 6, so dropped an additional $20 on the Aquacomputer Aquabus D5, seemed like twenty dollars well spent this being my first venture into custom water cooling.

http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_201&products_id=36430

Wish I had more information for everyone on this pump, so far I've only plugged it into the motherboard and AquaSuite 2014 recognized it immediately.

My custom AIO is:
XSPC - Copper CPU block and radiator
AquaComputer - Aquaero 6 XT and D5 Aquabus pump
EK - Pump X-top, D5 UNI mount and fluid
Monsoon Fittings (6) and Tygon A-60-G Norprene

As simple and easy as I could make it happen was the idea from the beginning.


----------



## Jakusonfire

Yes, all PWM D5's are exactly the same. That is why they all have the same PWM response curve and *ALL* D5's use the same curcuit board, Vario and PWM.

Brand is nothing but a sticker.


----------



## Sykrui

Hi is the D5 Aquabus pump some type of pwm e.g over the aquabus link or is it just volt controlled?


----------



## Jakusonfire

The USB D5 is nothing more than a regular D5 Vario with the small potentiometer (that the speed dial is attached to) replaced with a digital version. They are identical besides that tiny change, so really exactly the same pump.


----------



## f4lcon

Hi everyone.

I'm currently very interested in getting an Aquaero. I've read about the problems regarding the D5 PWM and the Corsair PWM fans, which unfortunately I own.

The D5 PWM I have is a Darkside D5 Storm PWM (see: http://www.dazmode.com/store/category/bare_pumps/, however he no longer sells them).

I have a set of 12 Corsair PWM fans which I'd rather not change.

I currently order all my WC stuff from Dazmode (yes I'm from Canada) and he has this version: http://www.dazmode.com/store/product/aquaero-6-xt-usb-fan-controller-graphic-lcd-touch-control-ir-remote-control/

So, a couple of question:
1) Will the Aquaero work with the Corsair PWM fans?
2) Will it work with the D5 PWM?
3) Do I need a special version of the Aquaero (I remember seeing that claimed somewhere)?
4) Are the boards developped by ITDiva available for sale somewhere (I could always build it, but kinda short on time these days...)
5) What's the current status with these PWM?
6) Do you guys recommended to ditch the pumps/fans and just get Aquacomputer pumps and other fans (what fans)?

Thanks!


----------



## macforth

Hi All..............

I posted a couple of questions in post #337, but given there were no suggestions to answer these, I figure no-one new the answers; so I did some reading and I think I have come up with the answers. I have been using the Aquasuite software only.

The first question was why could I not see four temps as chosen via the "Information Page" on my screen. The answer is that only temperatures that are chosen as a "Data Source" in "Controllers" can be seen on the screen of the 6 XT. I interpreted this from the following: (found at 12 in the User Information Manual)

"Notice on differences between aquasuite and device menu: In the aquasuite,
outputs are assigned to controllers on the controller page. In the device
menu, controllers are assigned in the outputs menu. Furthermore, the aqua-
suite will only display controllers that have an assigned data source as well as
output for better clarity. The device menu always shows all controllers regard-
less of whether they are configured or used for outputs."

The second question related to the four tiny F1, F2, F3 and F4 ...seen at the very bottom of the screen. These can only be applied when using the hand held controller...and not through the Aquasuite Software. There is mention at 16.4 (of the User Information Manual), that these F keys can be programmed by the "Device" (the hand held controller) to simplify navigation to certain information pages. In other words they have no relevance for anyone using the Aquasuite software.

I am still learning ...... the next area I am to tackle is the "Overview Pages" section.

Cheers









Macforth


----------



## avielcs

Hi all
If i want to use pwm fans on 1 header and i split the fans cables so they take power from the PSU and only connect the tech and pwm signal cables to the aquaero, do i need to worry about rhe AMPs per channle?
I want to connect 6 CM jetflo 120 and they are spec at 0.04 amps


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *avielcs*
> 
> Hi all
> If i want to use pwm fans on 1 header and i split the fans cables so they take power from the PSU and only connect the tech and pwm signal cables to the aquaero, do i need to worry about rhe AMPs per channle?
> I want to connect 6 CM jetflo 120 and they are spec at 0.04 amps


No, if the power is coming straight from the psu then the channel is under no load and power rating does not matter


----------



## avielcs

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> No, if the power is coming straight from the psu then the channel is under no load and power rating does not matter


Thanks
Another question is if i connect 6 fans this way does the aquaero still have an issue with corsair sp120 fans?


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *avielcs*
> 
> Thanks
> Another question is if i connect 6 fans this way does the aquaero still have an issue with corsair sp120 fans?


I only have experience with the non pwm versions but based on others who have posted in this thread there is a chance it will have issues.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *avielcs*
> 
> Thanks
> Another question is if i connect 6 fans this way does the aquaero still have an issue with corsair sp120 fans?


If you want to PWM control that many PWM Corsair SP120s on a single channel, those Corsair fans do have issues not just with the Aquaero, but with any PWM splitter from a mobo header or whatever. You might want to see about getting a Diva Dapter PCB from Darlene to address the issue. More info here.


----------



## sinnedone

I thought I read somewhere that a certain load was needed on an active channel or it would turn the unused energy to heat?

Would that apply to avielcs question or since no actual power would be drawn it would be Ok?


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *f4lcon*
> 
> Hi everyone.
> 
> I'm currently very interested in getting an Aquaero. I've read about the problems regarding the D5 PWM and the Corsair PWM fans, which unfortunately I own.
> 
> The D5 PWM I have is a Darkside D5 Storm PWM (see: http://www.dazmode.com/store/category/bare_pumps/, however he no longer sells them).
> 
> I have a set of 12 Corsair PWM fans which I'd rather not change.
> 
> I currently order all my WC stuff from Dazmode (yes I'm from Canada) and he has this version: http://www.dazmode.com/store/product/aquaero-6-xt-usb-fan-controller-graphic-lcd-touch-control-ir-remote-control/
> 
> So, a couple of question:
> 1) Will the Aquaero work with the Corsair PWM fans?
> 2) Will it work with the D5 PWM?
> 3) Do I need a special version of the Aquaero (I remember seeing that claimed somewhere)?
> 4) Are the boards developped by ITDiva available for sale somewhere (I could always build it, but kinda short on time these days...)
> 5) What's the current status with these PWM?
> 6) Do you guys recommended to ditch the pumps/fans and just get Aquacomputer pumps and other fans (what fans)?
> 
> Thanks!


To use the PWM version D5's with the Aquaero, you need to, at the least, add a 5V pullup circuit to the PWM lead.

This is about the easiest way to do it:

http://www.overclock.net/t/1474470/ocn-aquaero-owners-club/50#post_21956203

Read the posts on that page and the next few pages to get all the info that you'll need.

The Corsair PWM fans are another matter.

Depending on individual variations, you'll progressively loose speed control over them at a number between 5 and 7.

Usually, 4 work as expected, but as you add more, you loose the ability to slow them down more and more as you add the next few.

By 7 or 8 of them, they run full speed regardless of what you set in ASuite.

The reason is that as you add the PWM lines in parallel, it effectively lowers the source impedance, and when you look at source impedance in series with the A6's 100Ohm protective input resistors, there's too much voltage drop across the protective resistors and the A6 can no longer effectively pull the PWM input close enough to 0V (gnd) so the fans just see a near 100% PWM signal.

According to Shoggy, the next A6's will have 47 Ohm input resistors, which should allow the A6 to at least work with more than 4 or 5 of the Corsair fans per channel.

The only way to truly add as many fans as you need is with an add-on circuit.

You can see the one I have made and tested starting here:

http://www.overclock.net/t/1474470/ocn-aquaero-owners-club/150

Darlene


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *avielcs*
> 
> Hi all
> If i want to use pwm fans on 1 header and i split the fans cables so they take power from the PSU and only connect the tech and pwm signal cables to the aquaero, do i need to worry about rhe AMPs per channle?
> I want to connect 6 CM jetflo 120 and they are spec at 0.04 amps


Just make sure that you only connect 1 pump's or fan's tach line per channel, otherwise the RPM will be erratic if it reads at all.

Connecting several PWM lines is fine.

D.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *avielcs*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> No, if the power is coming straight from the psu then the channel is under no load and power rating does not matter
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks
> Another question is if i connect 6 fans this way does the aquaero still have an issue with corsair sp120 fans?
Click to expand...

In a word, Yes . . . . . .

Although according to Shoggy, a revision is planned that will lower the value of the protective input resistors in new Aquaeros.

While it won't solve the problem for really large numbers of Corsair fans, it should easily allow 6 or 8 fans to work acceptably.

The problem is, there's no way to know without looking at the PCB and knowing what to look for, will you know if it's a "new - revised" version or not.

Hopefully, he'll chime in here and update us regarding this.

Also, if all you have is 6 of them, you're in the "sorta" range of controllability.

You'll have some control of the speed, but you won't be able to slow them down as much as you could if you only had 2 or 3 of them.

You may or may not, depending on your needs, be able to live with that.

Darlene


----------



## DanielCoffey

Is it just the Corsair fans or does this issue affect other brands PWM offerings (such as Noctua)?


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DanielCoffey*
> 
> Is it just the Corsair fans or does this issue affect other brands PWM offerings (such as Noctua)?


Seems to be Corsair specific.

Have not seen anyone else complain of issues.

Corsair designed their fans to be rather proprietary to their Corsair Link system.

D.


----------



## DanielCoffey

Phew - that's good to hear... I have a box-o-fans arriving next week along with an AQ6.


----------



## Shoggy

The boards that we currently use already have the necessary modifications. Please note that resellers might still have the older variant in stock.


----------



## avielcs

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> The boards that we currently use already have the necessary modifications. Please note that resellers might still have the older variant in stock.


Is there a way to check my aquaero if it uses this board?


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> The boards that we currently use already have the necessary modifications. Please note that resellers might still have the older variant in stock.


Thanks for such a quick update . . .
















Do the resellers like PPC's and FCPU know what to look for to be able to tell if it's the original 100 Ohm version PCB or the new one?

At least prospective buyers with Corsair fans already bought, could be sure to get the new one if they ask for it.

Darlene


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *avielcs*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> The boards that we currently use already have the necessary modifications. Please note that resellers might still have the older variant in stock.
> 
> 
> 
> Is there a way to check my aquaero if it uses this board?
Click to expand...

Look at the back of the PCB for the 4 surface mount resistors I have circled in red.

If they have "100" on them, it's the original version PCB.



D.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> The USB D5 is nothing more than a regular D5 Vario with the small potentiometer (that the speed dial is attached to) replaced with a digital version. They are identical besides that tiny change, so really exactly the same pump.


Can you still get the boards for that?


----------



## f4lcon

Thanks Darlene for all the replies. Very informative. I'll check with my supplier and see which version he has for the Aquaero (I was thinking about putting all fans on the same channel though). As for the D5 circuit, I'll try to build in on a PCB and use it as an "in between" card with pin headers.


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Can you still get the boards for that?


No, unfortunately not. All mps devices use the same board though.


----------



## MeanBruce

It looks great.









Not photoshopped, these black passive sinks are available now from AquaComputer, which means probably another month before full distribution.

Let's see, do I know anyone with a black/gray/white build and a black edition asus board that might freaking love this? (scratching head)









Looks like they got the NC and NO positioned correctly this time...

http://shop.aquacomputer.de/product_info.php?products_id=3175

http://s1177.photobucket.com/user/MeanBruce/media/aquaerohsblk_zpsabe1875d.jpg.html


----------



## skupples

I'll definitely grab one when they make their way to the states.


----------



## RDKing2

FYI on pwm fans. I am using 14 Akasa 140mm Vipers with my Aquaero 6 and others not applicable to this post.. Notice the rpms are different when using splitters. Have two as case fans on a standard 2 way splitter direct to AQ6, 4 on a 280 rad using an Akasa 5 way splitter with supplemental power and 8 on a 560 rad with swiftech 8 way splitter and supplemental power. Power at 34% on all, RPM's read as case 674 rpm, 280 rad 728rpm and 560 rad is 971rpm. All following same curve with the same minimum rpm. Also cannot get any of the fans to go to the curves 25% mark unless I put the minimum power at 0% for the fan outputs. Almost like the AQ6 adds the minimum power and the curve % together. Will post some pics for ownership in next day or so. Even with dropping the minimum power to 0% the outputs with more fans still have higher rpms.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RDKing2*
> 
> FYI on pwm fans. I am using 14 Akasa 140mm Vipers with my Aquaero 6 and others not applicable to this post.. Notice the rpms are different when using splitters. Have two as case fans on a standard 2 way splitter direct to AQ6, 4 on a 280 rad using an Akasa 5 way splitter with supplemental power and 8 on a 560 rad with swiftech 8 way splitter and supplemental power. Power at 34% on all, RPM's read as case 674 rpm, 280 rad 728rpm and 560 rad is 971rpm. All following same curve with the same minimum rpm. Also cannot get any of the fans to go to the curves 25% mark unless I put the minimum power at 0% for the fan outputs. Almost like the AQ6 adds the minimum power and the curve % together. Will post some pics for ownership in next day or so. Even with dropping the minimum power to 0% the outputs with more fans still have higher rpms.


That's almost exactly what it does.

The curve actually controls between what you've preset for min and max.

If you preset the min for the lowest speed you want, and the max for the highest speed you want, then you have the full 0 to 100% range available to control between those points.

Is the tach line on the 560 group on one of the pull fans . . . .

Usually the pull side runs a bit faster than the push side, as the push side is more heavily loaded.

Darlene


----------



## Jakusonfire

Yeah that is right. Say you have a fan header set so that min is 20%, max 80%. 0 to 100% on the controllers is now the percentage of that range. So 20% is now 36%, 80% is now 68%.


----------



## RDKing2

I thought the curve would control between the min and max settings. It makes perfect sense what has been explained by both of you. I was just thinking the min would be 0 and max would be 100. I will set my min fan speeds back to 25% where I want them and adjust the curve lower. Thanks for the reminder about the push pull setup on my fans. I will check which ones are supplying the tach signal. Another question, is there any way to set up profiles in the software or does it have to be done directly on the AQ6 interface? With the new rad setup I am able to maintain a 4-6 degree delta at load but have to ramp up fans pretty fast as I sit between 2-3c at idle and light loads. This results in the fans ramping up and down quite a bit with moderate loads. Want to set up a different profile to quickly go to when running these moderate loads. I have not seen anything in the software to set up the programable keys either and the instructions seem to indicate it can be done.


----------



## Shoggy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Do the resellers like PPC's and FCPU know what to look for to be able to tell if it's the original 100 Ohm version PCB or the new one?


No, they do not know at all that there is any difference. It is also nothing that we communicate since it would only lead to confusion and I am also pretty sure that there are resellers that would try to exchange their stock.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RDKing2*
> 
> Another question, is there any way to set up profiles in the software or does it have to be done directly on the AQ6 interface?


The software has no profile management for the internal profiles of the device. Of course you can do all settings with the software, but you have to save the profiles directly through the device. I recommend that you also keep a copy of each profile through the export function of the software because otherwise you have to set everything again.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Do the resellers like PPC's and FCPU know what to look for to be able to tell if it's the original 100 Ohm version PCB or the new one?
> 
> 
> 
> No, they do not know at all that there is any difference. It is also nothing that we communicate since it would only lead to confusion and I am also pretty sure that there are resellers that would try to exchange their stock.
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *RDKing2*
> 
> Another question, is there any way to set up profiles in the software or does it have to be done directly on the AQ6 interface?
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> The software has no profile management for the internal profiles of the device. Of course you can do all settings with the software, but you have to save the profiles directly through the device. I recommend that you also keep a copy of each profile through the export function of the software because otherwise you have to set everything again.
Click to expand...

Hopefully then, they're too busy with too many products to read the forums about each of them . .









How about the AC webstores, Germany and US, would purchasers there all be getting the newer version going forward from now.

I'm looking to determine if there's an option for the guys that already have the Corsairs, so that they have reasonable certainty of getting the 47 Ohm version, and being able then, to use 8 fans, enough for P-P on a 480, on a single channel with a Swiftech splitter.

Also, thanks for the details on the software . . .
















Darlene


----------



## ngzb

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Hopefully then, they're too busy with too many products to read the forums about each of them . .
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> How about the AC webstores, Germany and US, would purchasers there all be getting the newer version going forward from now.
> 
> I'm looking to determine if there's an option for the guys that already have the Corsairs, so that they have reasonable certainty of getting the 47 Ohm version, and being able then, to use 8 fans, enough for P-P on a 480, on a single channel with a Swiftech splitter.
> 
> Also, thanks for the details on the software . . .
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Darlene


Darlene you mean 8 fans per channel with the swiftech splitter ,correct !?

Going to order mine next month , my dirt bike engine blew up so i have to share the money between pc and bike


----------



## Shoggy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> How about the AC webstores, Germany and US, would purchasers there all be getting the newer version going forward from now.


I assume Aquatuning and Caseking have them but I can not tell for sure since I have no idea how they organize their stock. If they just push it into the storage rack it is possible that some older remaining devices will stay there for a longer time


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ngzb*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Hopefully then, they're too busy with too many products to read the forums about each of them . .
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> How about the AC webstores, Germany and US, would purchasers there all be getting the newer version going forward from now.
> 
> I'm looking to determine if there's an option for the guys that already have the Corsairs, so that they have reasonable certainty of getting the 47 Ohm version, and being able then, to use 8 fans, enough for P-P on a 480, on a single channel with a Swiftech splitter.
> 
> Also, thanks for the details on the software . . .
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Darlene
> 
> 
> 
> Darlene you mean 8 fans per channel with the swiftech splitter ,correct !?
> 
> Going to order mine next month , my dirt bike engine blew up so i have to share the money between pc and bike
Click to expand...

Yes, I meant 8 per channel.

The Swiftech splitter is a nice convenience, since it only passes 1 tach line of the 8 pin-sets back to the A6, and powers the fans from a molex/sata PSU connector.

D..


----------



## f4lcon

Thanks gain for the reply Darlene. I have an additional question regarding the resistors. I have just asked my supplier and he says the resistors are marked as "473". I'm not really familiar with SMT nomenclature; does that stand for 47 ohms resistors? Why are they labeled 473?
Thanks in advance!


----------



## DanielCoffey

You have the new ones... they are labelled 47, then a small gap then a backwards "E". I have just had a look at the AQ^ I received from Scan.co.uk in the UK and they are the same..


----------



## MeanBruce

More great gear from my friendly little neighborhood computer water cooling store, Monsoon thermal probes and EK clear Ekoolant.

Probes feed into the Aquaero 6. Fluid IN, Fluid Out, radiator Delta T.









http://s1177.photobucket.com/user/MeanBruce/media/IMG_7054_zpsa25d283b.jpg.html

http://s1177.photobucket.com/user/MeanBruce/media/IMG_7049_zpse48d0a10.jpg.html


----------



## madcratebuilder

On what page in aqua suite does the AQ D5 pump temp sensor display? I've already used all 8 sensor inputs on the AQ6 and would use the 2 on the D5 pumps, I just don't know how they would display.


----------



## RDKing2

Should show up the same place that all the other temp sensors do. I think you have to have a sensor hooked up to the input for them to be visible though. Maybe not? I deleted all the inputs and sensors I was not using. I do remember my poweradjust 2's showed up as additional fan outputs. This is when hooked up to aquabus.


----------



## Shoggy

When you use two pumps, make sure that you have assigned different aquabus ID numbers for them. This can be done via USB in the system tab of the pumps. By default they use the same number so when you do not change it for one pump, they can not be detected by the aquaero. If everything is correct here, than you should see them in the sensor overview as RDKing2 said.


----------



## VSG

Shoggy, can that be done with both pumps connected and running?


----------



## Shoggy

Yes, of course, but only via USB. At least one of them needs a different aquabus ID number if you have not changed anything yet.


----------



## VSG

So connect one directly to the motherboard and change its ID before hooking it up to a y-aquabus cable and then to the AQ6 with the other D5? I may go dual D5 pumps and saving on one of the fan headers may come in very handy.


----------



## Shoggy

Yes, that way.


----------



## VSG

Cheers, thanks for confirming +1


----------



## RDKing2

Finally took a quick pic. My Aquaero 6. The door is not finished and has been scratched a bit so I may start over.


----------



## macforth

My PC is finally back together, and for day to day use sits to my left when I am sitting at the computer desk.

In order to see the Aquaero 6 XT screen, I have to roll my chair back and move to the left a tad, so I thought I would design an overview page and have the info on the screen at all times.

That's when my problems started.

I can design the screen I want .. no probs ... I even exported it to Computer/Local Disk (C/ProgramData/Aquasuite .... where Aquasuite also keeps some examples. However when I import it, it will not show on my deskstop after clicking the desktop icon. I get the message, "This page is currently shown on desktop. To show the page in Aquasuite, exit the desktop mode." However, it is not being shown on the desktop.

I can import any of the other "examples" that Aquasuite includes in their software, and they show up on the desktop, no problem. But try as I might, I cannot get my designed page to show on my desktop.

Any ideas?


----------



## Shoggy

Could you please provide a screenshot of the overview page that you want to move to the desktop?


----------



## macforth

OK Let's try this:-

Aquaero.zip 321k .zip file


----------



## Shoggy

Looks a lot like your boxes are positioned out of the screen area. When you are in the edit mode (lock is open) click on the screen icon with the arrow to copy the desktop into the aquasuite. This way you get an idea where the boxes are located. Keep an eye on the scrollbar at the bottom.


----------



## SinatraFan

I hope these questions aren't too stupid to ask...

for 3 pin fans... if I am running say 12 fans on one channel, I assume I connect 11 of them to only Positive and Negative, and the 12th one to all 3 leads, correct?

I assume the AQ6 still tracks the rpm speed of the fan using this lead correct?

And can I assume that the AQ6 tracks speeds on all four channels so in theory I should have a min of four fans (1/channel) connected to all 3 pins?


----------



## macforth

Thanks Shoggy........yep...I had everything too far to the right....


----------



## Shoggy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SinatraFan*
> 
> I hope these questions aren't too stupid to ask...
> 
> for 3 pin fans... if I am running say 12 fans on one channel, I assume I connect 11 of them to only Positive and Negative, and the 12th one to all 3 leads, correct?
> 
> I assume the AQ6 still tracks the rpm speed of the fan using this lead correct?
> 
> And can I assume that the AQ6 tracks speeds on all four channels so in theory I should have a min of four fans (1/channel) connected to all 3 pins?


Yes
Yes
Yes


----------



## SinatraFan

thanks


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Here's hoping Darlene or someone else here can answer me this:

Assuming there is some limitation, roughly how many PWM fans might one expect to be able to comfortably control on (a) a single channel and (b) on all channels combined of an Aquaero 6?

Does anyone have 10 or more PWM fans working on a single channel and if so, how do you have them wired up?

What's the most PWM fans per channel anyone here is currently running or knows of using the AQ6?

FWIW I'm not talking about Corsair PWM fans with their known issues, but rather most any other PWM fan.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Here's hoping Darlene or someone else here can answer me this:
> 
> *Assuming there is some limitation, roughly how many PWM fans might one expect to be able to comfortably control on (a) a single channel and (b) on all channels combined of an Aquaero 6?*
> 
> Does anyone have 10 or more PWM fans working on a single channel and if so, how do you have them wired up?
> 
> What's the most PWM fans per channel anyone here is currently running or knows of using the AQ6?
> 
> FWIW I'm not talking about Corsair PWM fans with their known issues, but rather most any other PWM fan.


That's a good question, and there will probably be some difference depending on just which PWM fans are connected.

Additionally, the number should increase when using the newer Aquaero version with the 47 Ohm protective resistors.

If you use a new A6 and splitters so that the fans are powered from the PSU, and not the Aquaero itself, that would surely yield the maximum number.

I doubt there's be any problems running 8 to 10 on a channel, even with the original A6 with the 100 Ohm resistors.

Since the PWM aspect of the A6 is just essentially an open collector / open drain configuration electrically . . . However many are on any one channel will not really effect being able to use the same on any, or all, of the other channels.

Darlene


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> That's a good question, and there will probably be some difference depending on just which PWM fans are connected.
> 
> Additionally, the number should increase when using the newer Aquaero version with the 47 Ohm protective resistors.
> 
> If you use a new A6 and splitters so that the fans are powered from the PSU, and not the Aquaero itself, that would surely yield the maximum number.
> 
> I doubt there's be any problems running 8 to 10 on a channel, even with the original A6 with the 100 Ohm resistors.
> 
> Since the PWM aspect of the A6 is just essentially an open collector / open drain configuration electrically . . . However many are on any one channel will not really effect being able to use the same on any, or all, of the other channels.
> 
> Darlene


Thanks for the reply Darlene.

The reason I was asking was on another thread someone has been asking questions about connecting 54 non-PWM (3-pin) fans to their Aquaero 6 and someone kept suggesting there that it would be easier if they were to use PWM fans instead. Am I wrong to think that's probably not the case, or might the newer Aquaero's actually be able to control ~14 PWM fans per channel on all 4 channels? Either way seems asking a lot of the controller.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> That's a good question, and there will probably be some difference depending on just which PWM fans are connected.
> 
> Additionally, the number should increase when using the newer Aquaero version with the 47 Ohm protective resistors.
> 
> If you use a new A6 and splitters so that the fans are powered from the PSU, and not the Aquaero itself, that would surely yield the maximum number.
> 
> I doubt there's be any problems running 8 to 10 on a channel, even with the original A6 with the 100 Ohm resistors.
> 
> Since the PWM aspect of the A6 is just essentially an open collector / open drain configuration electrically . . . However many are on any one channel will not really effect being able to use the same on any, or all, of the other channels.
> 
> Darlene
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for the reply Darlene.
> 
> The reason I was asking was on another thread someone has been asking questions about connecting 54 non-PWM (3-pin) fans to their Aquaero 6 and someone kept suggesting there that it would be easier if they were to use PWM fans instead. Am I wrong to think that's probably not the case, or might the newer Aquaero's actually be able to control ~14 PWM fans per channel on all 4 channels? Either way seems asking a lot of the controller.
Click to expand...

Like so many things, specifics makes for much better answers than generalities, but I'll do my best with what's presented.

54 voltage controlled fans would be 13 or 14 fans per channel if they were all the same type, and you tried to balance the load across the channels.

Each fan would have to be less than 3W, and you'd really want considerably less than 3W each to account for startup current.

You're not going to get a lot of fan for less than 3W.

We've all seen the 40 fans plus pumps in the early advertising, but I don't recall them saying what model they were, and if possibly they had the reducing resistors in line.

I tend to be skeptical of most promotional copy that I have not personally verified.

Strictly by the specs, it would seem workable to have 54 AP15's.

In truth, I'd go with PWM fans, as it's a lot more probable that each channel should run 10 to 15 or so, especially the new 47 ohm resistor version, without problems, (as long as you supply the 12V from the PSU) than being able to run 10 to 15 voltage controlled fans that have any real SP or usefulness.

Darlene


----------



## Shoggy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> We've all seen the 40 fans plus pumps in the early advertising, but I don't recall them saying what model they were, and if possibly they had the reducing resistors in line.


The used fans were our airstream 120mm. The used aquaero was a regular series device taken from the storage so exactly the same as everyone can buy it and as you own it







There were no modifications at all. The boards where the fans were connected are just simple splitters that we soldered together to be able to connect 20 fans to one fan channel in an easy way. The pumps were the normal D5 pump connected through an adapter cable.


----------



## MeanBruce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> The used fans were our airstream 120mm. The used aquaero was a regular series device taken from the storage so exactly the same as everyone can buy it and as you own it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There were no modifications at all. The boards where the fans were connected are just simple splitters that we soldered together to be able to connect 20 fans to one fan channel in an easy way. The pumps were the normal D5 pump connected through an adapter cable.


I try to help out when I can. hey Shoggy.

Performance PCs strikes again, custom sleeving made to order, very nice work. This is Bitspower Ultra-Black fabric, specifically ask them to "shrink to fan hub, no wires visible", not just to fan frame, if you want this look.

$3 per fan. Wootiepie









How's the custom AIO coming along Bruce? It's doing ok man, thanks for asking.









...they carefully tucked it underneath the sticker...









http://s1177.photobucket.com/user/MeanBruce/media/IMG_7204_zps31248346.jpg.html

http://s1177.photobucket.com/user/MeanBruce/media/IMG_7205_zps08685e72.jpg.html

http://s1177.photobucket.com/user/MeanBruce/media/IMG_7200_zps6f85dfb4.jpg.html


----------



## Sykrui

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MeanBruce*
> 
> I try to help out when I can. hey Shoggy.
> 
> Performance PCs strikes again, custom sleeving made to order, very nice work. This is Bitspower Ultra-Black fabric, specifically ask them to "shrink to fan hub, no wires visible", not just to fan frame, if you want this look.
> 
> $3 per fan. Wootiepie
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> How's the custom AIO coming along Bruce? It's doing ok man, thanks for asking.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ...they carefully tucked it underneath the sticker...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://s1177.photobucket.com/user/MeanBruce/media/IMG_7204_zps31248346.jpg.html
> 
> http://s1177.photobucket.com/user/MeanBruce/media/IMG_7205_zps08685e72.jpg.html
> 
> http://s1177.photobucket.com/user/MeanBruce/media/IMG_7200_zps6f85dfb4.jpg.html


i got to ask why are you posting this here it has nothing to do with the Aquaero maybe go make a build log


----------



## JottaD

I have a question regarding the RGB led connection on aquaero 6, since I only need to connect to the aquaero the RGB wires I will power them with a board made by Jeak which one is the power?



If its arrange from right to left 4-3-2-1 as in the picture this should be:

4 - Blue
3 - Power
2 - Green
1 - Red

is this correct?

thanks


----------



## kpoeticg

The Jeak Amp comes with a cable to connect it to the Aquaero so it's self explanatory.

On the actual Aquaero, the pinout is Red +V | Green +V | Ground | Blue +V

The amp just takes the 3 color pins and converts em to grounds, then uses a molex for the power, so the aquaero can still control it without blowing the rgb header.

Just match the wire colors on the cable it comes with. It leaves out the Ground wire.


----------



## RDKing2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Is the tach line on the 560 group on one of the pull fans . . . .
> 
> Usually the pull side runs a bit faster than the push side, as the push side is more heavily loaded.
> 
> Darlene


That is exactly what it was. I had my 560 measuring from the pull side and the 280 from the push. The two push/pull Monsta rads both read from push side now and are within 30 rpm of each other. The case fans are around 30 rpm and 60 rpm different from the two. But they are under much less load, so expected.

Thanks!


----------



## MeanBruce

out.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> We've all seen the 40 fans plus pumps in the early advertising, but I don't recall them saying what model they were, and if possibly they had the reducing resistors in line.
> 
> 
> 
> The used fans were our airstream 120mm. The used aquaero was a regular series device taken from the storage so exactly the same as everyone can buy it and as you own it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There were no modifications at all. The boards where the fans were connected are just simple splitters that we soldered together to be able to connect 20 fans to one fan channel in an easy way. The pumps were the normal D5 pump connected through an adapter cable.
Click to expand...

Thanks Shoggy,

That satiated my inner nerdiness. . . . . At 2.16W per fan, with 2 D5's, it's a pretty impressive demo for the then, yet to release, Aquaero.

I was never much of a fan of the 5 series, the cost/ performance, and overall capability of the hardware just wasn't there, even with the software.

The 6 series has made it a whole new ball game, and you guys deserve the kudos for continuing to improve the breed.

I can't think of anything that comes close to the 6 series at this time.

Darlene


----------



## macforth

** UnicrOnhunter:- I have ten PWM fans on one of the fan circuits of my 6 XT. They are all NF-F12's and I have the 12 volt and earth going to the PSU...... and earth, PWM and one fan's tacho only, going to the Aquaero. They perform just as expected.

I don't know for sure if the earth to the Aquaero is needed..... but when mucking around with one of Bing's PWM circuits some time ago... I couldn't get it to work properly unless I ensured the earth from the set of fans was going both to the PSU and the Bing controller.

I am confident that each circuit would run a lot more. I don't know about Corsair or what they call their PWM... I just refuse to use somebody's gear that does not conform to the modern standard.


----------



## skupples

I'm confused... The Aquabus cable I have doesn't fit the 3 massive pins on the flow sensor, and it didn't come with any other special cable or adapter?

is this the correct wire? Aquacomputer aquabus cable for tubemeter


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> I'm confused... The Aquabus cable I have doesn't fit the 3 massive cables on the flow sensor, and it didn't come with any special cable?


Have to buy these separate Skupples.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> Have to buy these separate Skupples.












yep, and the one included with the AQ6XT isn't the right kind for this particular flow meter. Looks like the variant that comes w/ the alarm & USB hookup uses the standard 3 pin aquabus, not this


----------



## HeyBear

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> I'm confused... The Aquabus cable I have doesn't fit the 3 massive pins on the flow sensor, and it didn't come with any other special cable or adapter?
> 
> is this the correct wire? Aquacomputer aquabus cable for tubemeter


Yea, it's a little annoying aquacomputer went with a non standard connection for that flowmeter. I think @kpoeticg had some luck finding the connectors available, I can't remember the site address though. It was in the previous aquaero 6 thread.

I also remember reading someone just soldering on the connections and doing away with the connector altogether, I think it was in Cpachris's BBBB build log, I'll see if I can find it when I have more time.

This is the cable the flow meter requires. I've only found it available with a white connector also, which is a little annoying if your build is mainly black but not the end of the world I guess.

edit - Turns out I was mistaken, he used a screw terminal rather than soldering, I found the post in Mosi's build log.



Spoiler: Original post



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mosi*
> 
> Actually I think the flow sensor is already quieting down a bit, hopefully it will quiet down even more.
> 
> The possibilities with the Aquaero are pretty much crazy. There's all sorts of things and custom curves and whatnot. I'm currently fighting to get the fill level sensor of the Aqualis to work via the Aquabus interface. It's a little tricky apparently but I hope things will work out. I'm posting on the AquaComputer forums currently to get this thing running.
> 
> This IR remote they shipped with the Aquaero is kinda handy for configuring the device without any PC. I could've sworn it was optional. No reason to complain about free candy, no?
> 
> It's supposedly also for controlling windows via IR. Maybe it can replace my Soundgraph IMon PAD in the long run but I doubt it somehow. I'll save the fiddling with the Harmony Remote software for later though.
> To get this flow sensor connected some sacrifices were neccesary.
> 
> The innards of that thing were small enough so I could do this:
> 
> Which is kinda McGyver style and looks gruesome. I'll be ordering the right cable together with the black faceplate for the Aquaero later. The latter is on backorder for a month anyway and maybe the list of parts will grow larger by then.


----------



## TATH

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> I'm confused... The Aquabus cable I have doesn't fit the 3 massive pins on the flow sensor, and it didn't come with any other special cable or adapter?
> 
> is this the correct wire? Aquacomputer aquabus cable for tubemeter


I think you need this one:

http://shop.aquacomputer.de/product_info.php?products_id=1622


----------



## madcratebuilder

Your AQ flow meter didn't include the 3 pin cable? Mine shipped with one. Atuning US has several listed that work with the flow meter.


----------



## Jakusonfire

They have never come with the cable.

"Additional components are required (see compatibility list) as well as a suitable connection cable (see art. no. 53027), these are not included in delivery!"


----------



## skupples

I guess Aquatuning hooked you up. I have 2x standard Aquabus, not sure where the second oen came from, but neither of them fit this flow sensor. Picked up the "Connection cable for flow sensor"


----------



## siffonen

That is just stupid to make people buy a cable separately so that they can connect their component, after spending a 35€ for a flow meter it should have all included.
Also Aquaero 6 should have both black and silver faceplates in the box, without spending any more money for a piece of aluminium.


----------



## skupples




----------



## theseekeroffun

I haven't been around in a while and I wasn't aware this club existed.....

2 A5 Pro's


----------



## trailertrash

so if the a6 will run 40 fans and 2 d5's. Would you still need to use the Aquacomputer Poweradjust 2?


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *trailertrash*
> 
> so if the a6 will run 40 fans and 2 d5's. Would you still need to use the Aquacomputer Poweradjust 2?


Not normally, unless you are seeking to run even more than that.


----------



## trailertrash

thank you


----------



## kpoeticg

It depends if you need extra channels. I'm probly gonna get an LT Slave for mine.

The AQ6 can handle 2.5A per channel, but the total power of the unit is less than 2.5A x 4 channels. I forget how much. So if you need extra power, or just ONE more channel, than a PA2 could be useful. LT Slave's are probly more useful in general when combined with the A6 tho. Or adding a cooler to it if you plan on loading the channels up


----------



## kpoeticg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> I guess Aquatuning hooked you up. I have 2x standard Aquabus, not sure where the second oen came from, but neither of them fit this flow sensor. Picked up the "Connection cable for flow sensor"


Not sure why they don't ship the cable with the non-usb version. I have the non-usb high flow also. Digikey also sells the connectors and pins for the flowmeter side. I ended up grabbing some last time i placed an order with them.

This is the connector http://www.digikey.com/product-search/en?x=16&y=16&lang=en&site=us&KeyWords=A19951-ND

These r the pins http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/0008500107/WM2301CT-ND/3131978

In case that's useful to anybody...

It's a standard 3Pin fan cable aside from the larger connector and pins on one side


----------



## skupples

its dumb as hell that's what it is


----------



## kpoeticg

Yeah. My cable had a wire rip out of the flowmeter end before i even hooked it up. I got the the outer wings of the pin uncrimped but couldn't peel back the inner wings. So i soldered the cable back into it and crimped the outer wings back down. I ordered another cable too next time i ordered wc supplies, but i found out what connector it was and when i was stocking up on pins and connectors it made sense to order a few extras to have around.

I would imagine the larger pins are there for a reason, but i can't imagine that the 26AWG wire can handle alot more amps than the standard fan pins


----------



## skupples

The non-usb flow meter goes into the "High" aquabus slot, correct? The directions were in German, but I assume that is the correct slot based off of the device name.


----------



## RDKing2

Thought it was standard flow. All the current devices go to the high speed port I believe


----------



## kpoeticg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> The non-usb flow meter goes into the "High" aquabus slot, correct? The directions were in German, but I assume that is the correct slot based off of the device name.


No. The non-USB version with only the 3Pin header on it connects to the "Flow" port. Only Aquabus devices connect to Aquabus. The USB version connects to the Aquabus port. Pretty much all Aquacomputer Aquaero-ish stuff that's USB connects to Aquabus.

All high speed Aquabus devices (that i can think of) use the same pcb.





Or same connection port layout at least.


----------



## ozzy1925

guys do you know the aq6 xt in the frozen cpu is the newest version or the oldest?


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ozzy1925*
> 
> guys do you know the aq6 xt in the frozen cpu is the newest version or the oldest?


They can't know:
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Do the resellers like PPC's and FCPU know what to look for to be able to tell if it's the original 100 Ohm version PCB or the new one?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> No, they do not know at all that there is any difference. It is also nothing that we communicate since it would only lead to confusion and I am also pretty sure that there are resellers that would try to exchange their stock.


----------



## Barney Gumble

Just saw the thread - Love it and subbed! Great idea for a forum, I do think these are great machines.

AQ5 LT owner plus added AQ devices.

Still learning and testing lots of stuff before I actually put it in a computer. I'll read through the thread and see if I can add any of my learning.

"Test bench" below plus how I cool a temp gauge down if needed


----------



## Newtocooling

I just bought an 6XT from FrozenCPU last week is there a way that I can tell if it's the old one or new version for you? I'm having a problem with mine I posted it in the main water cooling forum. Aquasuite can't see mine even though I'm connected through my motherboard's usb header.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Newtocooling*
> 
> I just bought an 6XT from FrozenCPU last week is there a way that I can tell if it's the old one or new version for you? I'm having a problem with mine I posted it in the main water cooling forum. Aquasuite can't see mine even though I'm connected through my motherboard's usb header.


the only difference between the "old" and "new" is one of the resistors near the fan channels, something like the old models are 100ohm, new models are 47 ohm(?) your issue would not stem from this. Make sure you have the USB wire connected the correct way on the device, & on the motherboard.


----------



## ozzy1925

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> They can't know:


then,i better buy from aquaero


----------



## IT Diva

My earlier post to be able to tell the difference between the old and new, once you have it in your hand . . . . .

The original value is 100 ohms, the new ones have 47 ohm resistors . . .

From another's description, they have 47 a space and a backwards E.

Look at the back of the PCB for the 4 surface mount resistors I have circled in red.

If they have "100" on them, it's the original version PCB.



Darlene


----------



## AlphaBravo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Newtocooling*
> 
> I just bought an 6XT from FrozenCPU last week is there a way that I can tell if it's the old one or new version for you? I'm having a problem with mine I posted it in the main water cooling forum. Aquasuite can't see mine even though I'm connected through my motherboard's usb header.


I am curious to find out which version you received. I am going to be ordering one from Frozen CPU, and I would like the newer version. Let us know once you figure it out.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Even if someone does report receiving the newer updated version from a particular retailer, you'd have to trust that they meticulously rotate stock always with the oldest received out the door first that you will also get the newer one. Having worked in in warehouses and stocking shelves for a grocery store and a retail chain before (back in my college days), I personally would assume that unless the item was a perishable, like milk or cheese, or an updated model # gets released, that it's just as if not more likely that new stock of the same item just gets put on the shelf in front of older stock of the same item and that it's probably the newest stock that goes out the door first, and they only get around to selling the oldest items whenever their stock of that item gets that low.


----------



## Newtocooling

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> My earlier post to be able to tell the difference between the old and new, once you have it in your hand . . . . .
> 
> The original value is 100 ohms, the new ones have 47 ohm resistors . . .
> 
> From another's description, they have 47 a space and a backwards E.
> 
> Look at the back of the PCB for the 4 surface mount resistors I have circled in red.
> 
> If they have "100" on them, it's the original version PCB.
> 
> 
> 
> Darlene


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AlphaBravo*
> 
> I am curious to find out which version you received. I am going to be ordering one from Frozen CPU, and I would like the newer version. Let us know once you figure it out.


When I get home today I'll check for you, thanks to Darlene's pic I should be able to tell the difference between the old model and new one. I'm really new to my Aquaero I even had my USB cable backwards on the Aquaero end


----------



## seross69

Has anyone used the Monsoon Temp sensors with the AQ5 or 6? I have checked with shoggy and monsoon and all the spec's seem to be the same so they should work. But still be nice to know someones experience with these??


----------



## skupples

Don't they all pretty much use the same internal sensor and 2 prong.


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> Don't they all pretty much use the same internal sensor and 2 prong.


@skupples not all the same I can not remember what the differences is but remember shoggy talking about theirs are different than the ones in the USA but I have checked the spec with Monsoon and they look the same to me but just hope some one had used them and wanted to know their experience with them... If you know what I mean?


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> Don't they all pretty much use the same internal sensor and 2 prong.


For the most part, as long as they are 10k ohm.

Koolance is the only brand I can think of that made a different 50k ohm temp sensor only for use with some of their products.


----------



## kpoeticg

I think the water sensors are pretty much just a resistor wrapped around a piece of brass.


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> I think the water sensors are pretty much just a resistor wrapped around a piece of brass.


this is true but can be differant values. I have check with Shoggy and Monsoon so they should work but just wanted to hear some personal experiences if you guys know what I mean??


----------



## pennover

Is the aquaero 6 software of the set-and-forget type, meaning that it doesn't have to be run as a background process? Just asking because I use linux and was planning to boot into windows just once to configure the controller.


----------



## kpoeticg

Yeah it's definitely set-it-and-forget-it. If you check the AC forums, there's a thread for aquasuite-ng for linux. But Aquasuite's really just a great GUI for changing the Aquaero's settings. Once you hit the save button, everything's sent to the Aquaero. The Aquaero doesn't need Aquasuite.


----------



## skupples

You can even program the controller directly without the suite


----------



## pennover

Ok great, thanks guys! Yeah, I know I could program the controller directly, but that just seems to much of a hassle with just 3 buttons..


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pennover*
> 
> Ok great, thanks guys! Yeah, I know I could program the controller directly, but that just seems to much of a hassle with just 3 buttons..


That it is. Pretty much the only use for the remote.


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> this is true but can be differant values. I have check with Shoggy and Monsoon so they should work but just wanted to hear some personal experiences if you guys know what I mean??


I was about to respond that I've used the Monsoon temp sensor with the AQ5, but I just checked and actually it looks like I have a Bitspower one. Not sure how that happened since I bought Monsoon of everything else


----------



## Newtocooling

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> My earlier post to be able to tell the difference between the old and new, once you have it in your hand . . . . .
> 
> The original value is 100 ohms, the new ones have 47 ohm resistors . . .
> 
> From another's description, they have 47 a space and a backwards E.
> 
> Look at the back of the PCB for the 4 surface mount resistors I have circled in red.
> 
> If they have "100" on them, it's the original version PCB.
> 
> 
> 
> Darlene


It looks like I have the old 6XT it has 100 on the PCB


----------



## Newtocooling

If I hook my 3pin Tacho pin from my D5 to the RPM on the Aquaero, where should I see that value on Aquasuite?


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Newtocooling*
> 
> It looks like I have the old 6XT it has 100 on the PCB
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


The 'resistors' Darlene had circled were to the right of your image, tiny little things, just above the relay.

I could be wrong because I admittedly know very little about such things, but I think what you have pictured with 100s on them just above the fan headers are capacitors.


----------



## Newtocooling

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> The 'resistors' Darlene had circled were to the right of your image, tiny little things, just above the relay.
> 
> I could be wrong because I admittedly know very little about such things, but I think what you have pictured with 100s on them just above the fan headers are capacitors.


I thought I might be in the wrong place, but where she has circled has a label sticker over that part identifying the inputs. I don't need it really as the instruction book has all the inputs labeled already, should I just take it off?


----------



## avielcs

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> My earlier post to be able to tell the difference between the old and new, once you have it in your hand . . . . .
> 
> The original value is 100 ohms, the new ones have 47 ohm resistors . . .
> 
> From another's description, they have 47 a space and a backwards E.
> 
> Look at the back of the PCB for the 4 surface mount resistors I have circled in red.
> 
> If they have "100" on them, it's the original version PCB.
> 
> 
> 
> Darlene


Well thats kind of wierd, i bought my AQ6xt acouple of months ago and my resistors are 47 with the backward E.
Could that be true?
Those it mean i want have a problem with a PWM D5 pump?


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *avielcs*
> 
> Well thats kind of wierd, i bought my AQ6xt acouple of months ago and my resistors are 47 with the backward E.
> Could that be true?
> Those it mean i want have a problem with a PWM D5 pump?


I don't think so. The D5 problem from my understanding applies to both versions of the Aquero pcb since is something off in the Laing D5 PWM implementation. But I might be wrong. Let's wait for Shoggy or ITDIva to chime in and confirm this.


----------



## avielcs

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> First, if you want to test your handiwork, before powering up your pump, apply 12V to the circuit you just added . . . . .
> 
> Gnd on the first pin, . . . plus + on the second pin, (next to the tach wire).
> 
> Now measure with a multimeter, the PWM pin should be +5V relative to the gnd pin, #1.
> 
> Once you see that all is well, you're ready to proceed.
> 
> Decide which channel of your A6 you want to control your pump from, and be sure that it's set to PWM in the Fans / Advanced tab.
> 
> If you're already familiar with Aquasuite enough to do that, and then set up a manual "preset value" controller for it, then plug it into that channel.
> 
> Looking at the back of the A6, number 1 is on the left.
> 
> For the D5, in the Fans tab, set min to 20% and max to 85% .
> 
> Check the "hold min power" box.
> 
> Then when you move the slider in the controller, it'll run at min rpm up to about 5 to10%, and then increase proportionally to max when you have the slider at 100%.
> 
> The slider's 0 to 100% range, controls within the span you previously set in fans tab, 20 to 85%
> 
> Min rpm is a little over 800, and max is around 4400.
> 
> Darlene


Me again
Just tested my cable and i'm getting 4.7 v on the pwm cable.
Using 3.3k, 470 and a zener diode.
Is that ok?


----------



## kpoeticg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Newtocooling*
> 
> I thought I might be in the wrong place, but where she has circled has a label sticker over that part identifying the inputs. I don't need it really as the instruction book has all the inputs labeled already, should I just take it off?


You don't have to "Take it off" to access what's underneath it. It peels back real easy with tweezers and fits right back in after your done.

But you can take it off if you want. All it does is give you an overview of the headers.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *avielcs*
> 
> Me again
> Just tested my cable and i'm getting 4.7 v on the pwm cable.
> Using 3.3k, 470 and a zener diode.
> Is that ok?


Ok so you are using the Shoggy / ITDiva (I am unsure who was the father/mother







) mod then?

http://www.overclock.net/t/1423333/aquacomputer-aquaero-6/1900#post_21946385

Cheers


----------



## avielcs

I'm using the diva mod


----------



## TATH

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> Has anyone used the Monsoon Temp sensors with the AQ5 or 6? I have checked with shoggy and monsoon and all the spec's seem to be the same so they should work. But still be nice to know someones experience with these??


Send me a few and i will tell you


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *avielcs*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> First, if you want to test your handiwork, before powering up your pump, apply 12V to the circuit you just added . . . . .
> 
> Gnd on the first pin, . . . plus + on the second pin, (next to the tach wire).
> 
> Now measure with a multimeter, the PWM pin should be +5V relative to the gnd pin, #1.
> 
> Once you see that all is well, you're ready to proceed.
> 
> Decide which channel of your A6 you want to control your pump from, and be sure that it's set to PWM in the Fans / Advanced tab.
> 
> If you're already familiar with Aquasuite enough to do that, and then set up a manual "preset value" controller for it, then plug it into that channel.
> 
> Looking at the back of the A6, number 1 is on the left.
> 
> For the D5, in the Fans tab, set min to 20% and max to 85% .
> 
> Check the "hold min power" box.
> 
> Then when you move the slider in the controller, it'll run at min rpm up to about 5 to10%, and then increase proportionally to max when you have the slider at 100%.
> 
> The slider's 0 to 100% range, controls within the span you previously set in fans tab, 20 to 85%
> 
> Min rpm is a little over 800, and max is around 4400.
> 
> Darlene
> 
> 
> 
> Me again
> Just tested my cable and i'm getting 4.7 v on the pwm cable.
> Using 3.3k, 470 and a zener diode.
> Is that ok?
Click to expand...

If you did it like in the pics,

You should be good to go for your PWM D5.

The resistor values we're talking about effect how the A6 does with the Corsair PWM fans, but have nothing to do with the PWM D5 issue.

The original PCB with 100 ohm resistors won't control more than about 5 to 6 of them.

The newer version with the 47 ohm resistors should do at least 8, if not a few more for P-P on a 480 rad or better.

Darlene


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Newtocooling*
> 
> It looks like I have the old 6XT it has 100 on the PCB
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The 'resistors' Darlene had circled were to the right of your image, tiny little things, just above the relay.
> 
> I could be wrong because I admittedly know very little about such things, but I think what you have pictured with 100s on them just above the fan headers are capacitors.
Click to expand...

Yes, those are caps, the 100 is for 100 microfarads.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Newtocooling*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> The 'resistors' Darlene had circled were to the right of your image, tiny little things, just above the relay.
> 
> I could be wrong because I admittedly know very little about such things, but I think what you have pictured with 100s on them just above the fan headers are capacitors.
> 
> 
> 
> I thought I might be in the wrong place, but where she has circled has a label sticker over that part identifying the inputs. I don't need it really as the instruction book has all the inputs labeled already, should I just take it off?
Click to expand...

You'll have to peel the label up a little at the bottom to see the resistors.

There are 4 in a row, the red circle in the center actually outlines the middle 2 of them.


----------



## Newtocooling

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Yes, those are caps, the 100 is for 100 microfarads.
> You'll have to peel the label up a little at the bottom to see the resistors.
> 
> There are 4 in a row, the red circle in the center actually outlines the middle 2 of them.


Ok sorry this is all really new to me I found what you guys were looking for and you"re right Darlene the number is 47 with a backwards E


----------



## dseg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> the only difference between the "old" and "new" is one of the resistors near the fan channels, something like the old models are 100ohm, new models are 47 ohm(?) your issue would not stem from this. Make sure you have the USB wire connected the correct way on the device, & on the motherboard.


What is the difference between having 100ohm and 47ohm on the AQ6?
I bought this when it first came out so I deff I have the "older" version, but what is the difference here?


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dseg*
> 
> What is the difference between having 100ohm and 47ohm on the AQ6?
> I bought this when it first came out so I deff I have the "older" version, but what is the difference here?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> If you did it like in the pics,
> 
> You should be good to go for your PWM D5.
> 
> *
> The resistor values we're talking about effect how the A6 does with the Corsair PWM fans, but have nothing to do with the PWM D5 issue.
> 
> The original PCB with 100 ohm resistors won't control more than about 5 to 6 of them.
> 
> The newer version with the 47 ohm resistors should do at least 8, if not a few more for P-P on a 480 rad or better.*
> 
> Darlene


----------



## Newtocooling

Sorry but I asked this question earlier today about the 3pin header off my D5 pump, when I use the RPM on the Aquaero I can get no reading for it, but when I use one of the fan headers I can see the RPM? Should I be able to change the pump speed through the Aquasuite with the three pin going into the aquero? Sorry if these questions seem dumb, but I'm really new to all of this and it's my first water cooled build. My temps on a 4770 OC to 3.9 are Idle in the low 30c and under load going up between 60-70c, ambient is around 22c in the room at the moment.


----------



## kpoeticg

The "RPM" header on the Aquaero is for sending an rpm signal to your motherboards CPU_FAN header. Some motherboards won't turn on without a fan connected to it, also it's a useful feature for setting alarms.

If the 3Pin connector coming out of your D5 only has one wire in it, it's the rpm wire. You'd connect that to one of the fan headers so you can see how fast your pump is running. You can also voltage control D5's off the A6 fan headers. If you have an A5 you should use a Power Adjust to voltage control. If you have a D5 Vario (with a knob on it), i dunno if they're meant to be voltage controlled, i'm sure some1 else in here knows that


----------



## avielcs

Well i need your help guys
Just turned on my aquaero 6 for the first time and tested my D5 pwm pump and the diva mod.
I'm trying to test it without a pc so i'm controlling everything with the remote.
I've tried to make a small diy pcb



I've set fan2 to pwm.
Now i can see the rpm but can't change it to see if the mod works.
Any suggestions ?
If i connect the pump directly to the aquaero it reads about 2400 rpm and with the mod its 4700.
Many thanks


----------



## avielcs




----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *avielcs*


The mod looks fine for a DIY.









I only know how to help with setting up Aquasuite.

Hopefully, Shoggy can help with using the remote to set it up.

Darlene

The reason you see lower rpm when the mod is not installed is that the D5 runs at about 60% when the PWM line is not connected.

It's running at max with the mod because that gives it a 100% PWM signal, if the A6 isn't set to control via PWM correctly, or the range is set too high.


----------



## dseg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*


Thank you for the response.
Does anyone know how many Gentle Typhoons AP-15s I could run off one header from the "old" version vs the new one?


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dseg*
> 
> Thank you for the response.
> Does anyone know how many Gentle Typhoons AP-15s I could run off one header from the "old" version vs the new one?


As Skupples already tried to point out, the change in resistors was made on Aquacomputer's part in relation to an issue that has to do a well-known issue with PWM control of Corsair fans only.

Corsair's implementation of PWM on their fans made control of more than 4 of them from a single PWM header on a mobo (and also previous to the change, earlier releases of the AQ6) buggy to say the least. Once you tried to add more than 4 or so Corsair PWM fans to a splitter they would tend to revert to full speed. The change Aquaero made was to address that issue only. It has nothing to do PWM control of other fans/pumps nor with voltage control of 3-pin fans like your Gentle Typhoon AP-15s.

In simpler terms, if you are not going to be PWM controlling Corsair SP120 PWM fans with your Aquaero, it really shouldn't matter whether you have the newer version or not.


----------



## dseg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> As Skupples already tried to point out, the change in resistors was made on Aquacomputer's part in relation to an issue that has to do a well-known issue with PWM control of Corsair fans only.
> 
> Corsair's implementation of PWM on their fans made control of more than 4 of them from a single PWM header on a mobo (and also previous to the change, earlier releases of the AQ6) buggy to say the least. Once you tried to add more than 4 or so Corsair PWM fans to a splitter they would tend to revert to full speed. The change Aquaero made was to address that issue only. It has nothing to do PWM control of other fans/pumps nor with voltage control of 3-pin fans like your Gentle Typhoon AP-15s.
> 
> In simpler terms, if you are not going to be PWM controlling Corsair SP120 PWM fans with your Aquaero, it really shouldn't matter whether you have the newer version or not.


I was looking for detailed info like this, thank you.
I went through the thread but it is so big, I musta missed it.
+rep


----------



## Nornam

Been meaning to update my wares for ages now & have finally got around to it... So here is the list of AQ's I have...

2 x Aquaero 5XT's, 1 x Aquaero 5Pro, 3 x Aquaero 5LT's......

1 x Aquaero 6XT & 1 x Aquaero 6Pro....









Am working on a couple of guides to add to my Aquaero Reviews/Guides & will hopefully have them done in the next couple of weeks









Nornam (Namron)

P.S.. Thread is a great Idea Darlene & coming on very Nicely... Well Done & Good on ya girl


----------



## VSG

lol what are you doing with all those Aquaero units?


----------



## sinnedone

What he said! lol

I need a 5 LT myself.


----------



## kpoeticg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nornam*
> 
> Been meaning to update my wares for ages now & have finally got around to it... So here is the list of AQ's I have...
> 
> 2 x Aquaero 5XT's, 1 x Aquaero 5Pro, 3 x Aquaero 5LT's......
> 
> 1 x Aquaero 6XT & 1 x Aquaero 6Pro....
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Am working on a couple of guides to add to my Aquaero Reviews/Guides & will hopefully have them done in the next couple of weeks
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Nornam (Namron)
> 
> P.S.. Thread is a great Idea Darlene & coming on very Nicely... Well Done & Good on ya girl


LOL, that's alot of Aquaero's. Love your guides tho Namron. Keep it up


----------



## mandrix

2xAquaero 5 Pro's & 1xAquaero 5 LT


I use AIDA 64 for monitoring, and I found if HWINFO64 is also run it can sometimes interfere with AIDA & cause the temps to disappear from Aquasuite...this usually happens on resuming from sleep.


----------



## kpoeticg

Yeah, running them both makes all the GPU temps disappear sometimes. Usually when i reboot


----------



## Nornam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> lol what are you doing with all those Aquaero units?


Haha... I know it sounds extreme.. But I use them mostly for doing the Guides e.t.c... I Have 1 x 5XT that is in my main PC (800D) which I use for every day use & to write my reviews & guides..

I have the other 5XT at the moment in my old case that I use for doing reviews, that also has one of the 5LT as a slave device... 1 of the 5 Pro's is set to one side along with a second 5LT (for trying out various things that people might come up against & I try to replicate what's happening to try & get an answer) I use this rather than what is in the review case as it means I don't need to interrupt any Rad or Block test I maybe running at the time.. If you follow me









The third 5LT is a spare....In case I blow one up....

Only recently got the AQ 6's & have just put together another Review Case (900D) & PC to use specifically for reviews using the AQ6XT (the old case is a Phobya Ultra Large...Damned awful case IMO....

The other AQ6 (the Pro) I will be putting that into a New more personal use PC using the Fractal Arc 2 Mid case with acrylic tubing e.t.c (although this will also get used for doing some reviews if & when the main review PC is being used already in a test e.t.c).....

PHEEWWWW!!.... More of a reply than I had intended I'm afraid...... Sorry about that...... I'll try to curb my enthusiasm next time









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sinnedone*
> 
> What he said! lol
> 
> I need a 5 LT myself.


As Above..... Except to say that I also use an awful lot of splitter cables & Aquabus cables connecting up various other AQ devices that connect to the Aquaero (just so I can say in the guides what works or doesn't work e.t.c)....









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> LOL, that's alot of Aquaero's. Love your guides tho Namron. Keep it up


....

Thanks kpoetica Real glad you like my guides.. I Appreciate it thanks







.... I'll keep it up for as long as I can afford to, be sure of that







.... I'm near to posting up some things in the next couple of weeks or so (providing my health holds out & I don't get any worse, I think things are moving on the right direction so should all be good to go as I said in couple of weeks like)....

Thanks again to all & Take Care Out there........ It's a jungle









Nam....


----------



## avielcs

Hi all, can you guide to how to set up a pwm fan without aquasuite?
Just with th remote.
I've changed it to pwm but how do i change the rpm?
Cant change it when the fan is showing on screen
Thanks


----------



## Shoggy

Main menu -> controllers -> preset values -> preset value 1 -> preset value -> select your speed (0-100%).

Main menu -> outputs -> fans -> fan 1 -> data source -> preset value -> preset value 1


----------



## madcratebuilder

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nornam*
> 
> Been meaning to update my wares for ages now & have finally got around to it... So here is the list of AQ's I have...
> 
> 2 x Aquaero 5XT's, 1 x Aquaero 5Pro, 3 x Aquaero 5LT's......
> 
> 1 x Aquaero 6XT & 1 x Aquaero 6Pro....
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Am working on a couple of guides to add to my Aquaero Reviews/Guides & will hopefully have them done in the next couple of weeks
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Nornam (Namron)
> 
> P.S.. Thread is a great Idea Darlene & coming on very Nicely... Well Done & Good on ya girl


Nice collection of gear. I've been thinking about a 5LT for my everyday machine. Your guides and reviews are the primary reason I bought a 6 Pro and the only reason I got it running! I think you're AC's #1 salesman.


----------



## avielcs

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> Main menu -> controllers -> preset values -> preset value 1 -> preset value -> select your speed (0-100%).
> 
> Main menu -> outputs -> fans -> fan 1 -> data source -> preset value -> preset value 1


thaks Shoggy
Is ther a way to set it on the fly?
Change it with +- or something?


----------



## HeyBear

@avielcs Not sure, you can set a number of different presets though, and then switch between them when you want.

Possibly setting it to a preset and then adjusting the preset value up and down would work, not sure if it applies it in realtime or if you have to set it and then accept the changes though, don't think I tried that when I was messing around with it at the weekend during a leak test.


----------



## Costas

Hi everyone, Just a quick question from a soon to be Aquaero owner in the southern hemisphere - are there any issues in driving a Swiftech MCP35X2 pump with the 6XT? I haven't found any posts on the 6XT driving this particular pump.

I am aware of the PWM drive issue in regards to this particular pump operating only between approx. 30% and 70% [or so] of the total PWM range however this can be taken care of by setting min/max limits - are there any other issues to be aware of with this combo?

I have downloaded and installed the Aquasuite software to give it a whirl and although I do not have a controller at this stage I played around with the demo/sample configs which gave me a very good insight on how flexible this gear is.

One last question - as the 6XT has basically 4 channels to drive fans/pumps etc - if I would like to expand this to one or two extra for a total of say 5 or 6 channels [just voltage control - PWM ctrl not required on the extra channels], is the best/simplest option to simply also pickup a Poweradjust 2 USB...?

Thanks

Costas


----------



## Shoggy

If you own a XT variant you can create a shortcut: main menu -> user interface -> keys -> programmable keys -> key 1 -> learn key function -> back to main menu -> controllers -> preset value -> preset value 1 -> preset value -> press "learn" on the lower left button. When you press 1 on the remote it will take you directly to the setting for the speed.


----------



## Nornam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *madcratebuilder*
> 
> Your guides and reviews are the primary reason I bought a 6 Pro and the only reason I got it running! I think you're *AC's #1 salesman*.


Haha..... *I Wish*







Glad you found the guides e.t.c handy good to hear







. (Just wish I had deeper pockets, I could get more done more quickly then







).

N.


----------



## avielcs

T
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> If you own a XT variant you can create a shortcut: main menu -> user interface -> keys -> programmable keys -> key 1 -> learn key function -> back to main menu -> controllers -> preset value -> preset value 1 -> preset value -> press "learn" on the lower left button. When you press 1 on the remote it will take you directly to the setting for the speed.


I'll try that, this thread rocks


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Costas*
> 
> Hi everyone, Just a quick question from a soon to be Aquaero owner in the southern hemisphere - are there any issues in driving a Swiftech MCP35X2 pump with the 6XT? I haven't found any posts on the 6XT driving this particular pump.
> 
> I am aware of the PWM drive issue in regards to this particular pump operating only between approx. 30% and 70% [or so] of the total PWM range however this can be taken care of by setting min/max limits - are there any other issues to be aware of with this combo?
> 
> I have downloaded and installed the Aquasuite software to give it a whirl and although I do not have a controller at this stage I played around with the demo/sample configs which gave me a very good insight on how flexible this gear is.
> 
> One last question - as the 6XT has basically 4 channels to drive fans/pumps etc - if I would like to expand this to one or two extra for a total of say 5 or 6 channels [just voltage control - PWM ctrl not required on the extra channels], is the best/simplest option to simply also pickup a Poweradjust 2 USB...?
> 
> Thanks
> 
> Costas


The 6 series runs the 35X pumps just fine.

I've had as many as 4 at a time on a single channel, (just the PWM lines and 1 tach line, they power from a PSU molex) and they all maintained complete range of control.

Darlene


----------



## skupples

Never mind, defaulting the device worked. Now to deal w/ these piss poor quality heads on some of these AP15s, even taking them to the splitter doesn't help.


----------



## shakurass

Does anyone know if there are any issues with reporting the RPM of PWM controlled fans with the Aquaero 6?

I have some NB-BlackSilent Pro PL-PS PWM fans which should have a RPM range of 600-1500 yet when I lower the power in the Aquaero the fan speed reported doesn't seem to go down. The same goes with the MCP-35X pump, it only seems to report the RPM as being in the top 90% of the pumps RPM range regardless of what I set it to in the software.

I have set the control in the software to PWM for all the fans and the pump. I am just wondering if it is in fact setting the speed correctly but not reporting the real speed back to the controller.


----------



## DanielCoffey

If your PWM fans are on a splitter, have you modified it so that only one PWM tach signal is going to the AQ6?


----------



## shakurass

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DanielCoffey*
> 
> If your PWM fans are on a splitter, have you modified it so that only one PWM tach signal is going to the AQ6?


I am using fan splitter cables, they were built so that the tach line is only reported from 1 of the fans. Also the pump is not on any splitter and is running on it's own channel.

Here is the splitter cable I bought:

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/14982/cab-627/EK_4-Pin_PWM_4-Way_Splitter_Cable_-_Sleeved_Black_Black.html?id=7eoNxie7&mv_pc=205


----------



## pennover

Hi! I've ordered me a few of these ModMyToys 5-way fan splitters:



As you can see, the angled connector that is supposed to be wired up to the fan controller, is male. Problem is, the connectors on the Aquaero 6 are male too:



All the 3-pin fan cable extensions seem to be male-to-female, so how am I supposed to wire these up?


----------



## skupples

Same company makes female/female in all sorts of lengths. You will also need to sever the tach trace on the splitter after the the first header to get the unit to properly read the rpm.

Second header counting the the output. I can link a PIC later after work.


----------



## pennover

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> Same company makes female/female in all sorts of lengths. You will also need to sever the tach trace on the splitter after the the first header to get the unit to properly read the rpm.
> 
> Second header counting the the output. I can link a PIC later after work.


Thanks m8, that would be great because I have little idea of what you're talking about


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Here's the back of a modmytoys 3-pin pcb (courtesy of cgipson1) shown with the tach (rpm) trace scratched out past the first output header so that only one fan's tach signal gets reported to the controller:


----------



## pennover

Ok thanks! How can I identify the tach trace?

*EDIT*: Nevermind, found it in the link.


----------



## bern43

Trying to figure out if my Flow Meter (MPS Flow 400) is actually working. I hooked up the USB cable to update the firmware. But it's only showing up as an MPS device and there's no flow values being displayed under the sensors tab. Am I missing something. Is there a particular way to set this up while connected with USB?


----------



## TATH

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bern43*
> 
> Trying to figure out if my Flow Meter (MPS Flow 400) is actually working. I hooked up the USB cable to update the firmware. But it's only showing up as an MPS device and there's no flow values being displayed under the sensors tab. Am I missing something. Is there a particular way to set this up while connected with USB?


Give it a aquabus number and after this connect a aquabus cable. Connect to flow and the device will show up in the tab from the aquero.
If you leave it on your usb cable it will show as mps in the aquasuite tab (you have to give it a name like "flow gpu or cpu".


----------



## bern43

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TATH*
> 
> Give it a aquabus number and after this connect a aquabus cable. Connect to flow and the device will show up in the tab from the aquero.
> If you leave it on your usb cable it will show as mps in the aquasuite tab (you have to give it a name like "flow gpu or cpu".


I assigned it an aquabus number, set priority to aquabus and then disconnected the USB. In the MPS tab I typed in Flow Meter under the name area and it shows as MPS with Flow Meter written underneath. Still doesn't show any actual flow number though under the aquasuite flow sensor tab.


----------



## badkarma3059

So Being the noob aquasuite that I am I ran into a little bit of an issue. About a month and I half ago when I got the system set up a set up a curve (in the controllers section) in aquasuit using all the fans in the case. Everything ran great, then today I got bored. I know, bad idea. I wanted to take my intake fans out of the curve and when I did the stopped responding. Even when I set the mins and max settings in the fans section of aquasuit.
Maybe I just haven't had enough coffee yet and I'm missing something, but can some one point me in the right direction?


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *badkarma3059*
> 
> So Being the noob aquasuite that I am I ran into a little bit of an issue. About a month and I half ago when I got the system set up a set up a curve (in the controllers section) in aquasuit using all the fans in the case. Everything ran great, then today I got bored. I know, bad idea. I wanted to take my intake fans out of the curve and when I did the stopped responding. Even when I set the mins and max settings in the fans section of aquasuit.
> Maybe I just haven't had enough coffee yet and I'm missing something, but can some one point me in the right direction?


For a fan to be running it has to be associated with a controller of some kind. If not a curve then a set point or something else. Is that what you mean?

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bern43*
> 
> Trying to figure out if my Flow Meter (MPS Flow 400) is actually working. I hooked up the USB cable to update the firmware. But it's only showing up as an MPS device and there's no flow values being displayed under the sensors tab. Am I missing something. Is there a particular way to set this up while connected with USB?


Did you import the calibration curve for your model meter while the USB was connected?


----------



## badkarma3059

When not set into an automatic curve I was able to set the fans manually. However now for some reason when I try to do this and hit "save" nothing happens. They do not spin up like they used to.


----------



## bern43

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> Did you import the calibration curve for your model meter while the USB was connected?


Nope. How does one go about accomplishing that exactly?


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bern43*
> 
> Nope. How does one go about accomplishing that exactly?


Plug it in via USB and Under the MPS / Configuration tab there is a button that says import configuration curve.

Choose your model of flow meter and the tubing size (there is only one for the 400 model) first


----------



## bern43

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> Plug it in via USB and Under the MPS / Configuration tab there is a button that says import configuration curve.
> 
> Choose your model of flow meter and the tubing size (there is only one for the 400 model) first


Thanks! I'll try that tonight after work. +rep.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

A suggestion for Darlene: The front page of this club thread still says this:
Quote:


> Know Issues & Compatibility List
> 
> Known Issues:
> 
> PWM Version of the D5 not controllable with the A6
> *PWM Version of the Corsair fans not controllable
> with more than 5 or 6 on a channel*


Now that newer versions of the Aquaero 6 have reportedly/hopefully addressed the Corsair PWM fan issue, perhaps an asterisk can be added along with a note and a link to a post on how to tell if you have a newer version or not.

On that note, has anyone tested the newer Aquaero with a larger number of Corsair PWM fans to see how well it works?


----------



## bern43

Got the MPS Flow 400 working. It's now showing 1.8 gpm for my MCP 35X2 under the Sensors Tab. That same flow is reported even if I set the pumps to 30%. Does that seem right? Figured the flow would start to drop after about 60% or so.

Edit: I think I figured this out. Need to control the PWM speed through the sensors tab. I'm guessing that means lowering the maximum power under the pumps tab isn't doing anything?


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bern43*
> 
> Got the MPS Flow 400 working. It's now showing 1.8 gpm for my MCP 35X2 under the Sensors Tab. That same flow is reported even if I set the pumps to 30%. Does that seem right? Figured the flow would start to drop after about 60% or so.
> 
> Edit: I think I figured this out. Need to control the PWM speed through the sensors tab. I'm guessing that means lowering the maximum power under the pumps tab isn't doing anything?


Yep, you need to configure the Aquaero fan to PWM control. Since the pump is getting 12 v from the molex changing the fan head voltage will do nothing to the pump.


----------



## mandrix

Also the MCP35x pumps max at around 60% pwm. You can monitor the rpm and verify exactly where yours top out.


----------



## bern43

Slowly getting there. I've got my MCP35X2 setup using a Y-splitter with the RPM signal going to Fan 3 and the PWM signal going to Fan 4. In the Sensors Tab Fan 3 is listed at 4545 rpm. Fan 4 doesn't have an rpm listed. So far so good, but when I go to select PWM control for Fan 4 the PWM controls don't show up. Tried to set up curve control for Fan 4, but that didn't help either.

I'm sure I'm missing something incredibly simple. Any suggestions?


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bern43*
> 
> Slowly getting there. I've got my MCP35X2 setup using a Y-splitter with the RPM signal going to Fan 3 and the PWM signal going to Fan 4. In the Sensors Tab Fan 3 is listed at 4545 rpm. Fan 4 doesn't have an rpm listed. So far so good, but when I go to select PWM control for Fan 4 the PWM controls don't show up. Tried to set up curve control for Fan 4, but that didn't help either.
> 
> I'm sure I'm missing something incredibly simple. Any suggestions?


you shouldn't have to split it like that. I run 3x MCP35x pumps off of one channel.

Edit: you shouldn't have to split the RPM & PWM cables. Use the Y adapter that came with your MCP35x2, plug the 4 pin header into one of your 4 fan headers.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bern43*
> 
> Slowly getting there. I've got my MCP35X2 setup using a Y-splitter with the RPM signal going to Fan 3 and the PWM signal going to Fan 4. In the Sensors Tab Fan 3 is listed at 4545 rpm. Fan 4 doesn't have an rpm listed. So far so good, but when I go to select PWM control for Fan 4 the PWM controls don't show up. Tried to set up curve control for Fan 4, but that didn't help either.
> 
> I'm sure I'm missing something incredibly simple. Any suggestions?


why are you splitting in two channels? Use the y split to place both 35x2 cables in one channel and set that channel to PWM control not voltage. I think that was what Skupples meant.


----------



## Jakusonfire

Yeah, that is a really odd way to set up a dual pump. If you are using up two headers why split at all? You should at least have the RPM going to both channels and the single PWM signal if you want to monitor both pump speeds.


----------



## bern43

I'm using the splitter that comes with the MCP35X2 pump. The cable has a 4 pin end for the PWM signal, which I've hooked up to Fan 4. It also has a 3 pin end, which I've hooked up to Fan 3. The PWM 4 pin is supposed to provide the PWM signal to both pumps and indicate the rpm speed of pump 1. The 3 pin is supposed to indicate the rpm speed of pump 2. Might be my inexact description of the cable as "Y-splitter" that's confusing, the cable actually has four connections, two coming from the pump, the 4 pin pwm, and the 3 pin rpm.

2 problems. I'm not getting an RPM speed for Fan 4. I'm also not getting any PWM specific controls when I select PWM.

Both pumps seem to be working so maybe something got buggered during my sleeving. Guess I'll start by checking that. Anybody else have any issues with this or thoughts as to what might be going wrong?


----------



## failwheeldrive

I apologize if this seems like a dumb question, but does anyone know if there would be a problem with making a custom 5 pin USB cable and using it with my Aquaero 5 Pro? I normally wouldn't think twice about making a custom cable, but since the stock cable that comes with the Aquaero is insulated with foil that is connected to the ground wires I thought there might be an issue with not following that design. Any input would be greatly appreciated, as the stock cable is a total pain to work with lol.


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bern43*
> 
> I'm using the splitter that comes with the MCP35X2 pump. The cable has a 4 pin end for the PWM signal, which I've hooked up to Fan 4. It also has a 3 pin end, which I've hooked up to Fan 3. The PWM 4 pin is supposed to provide the PWM signal to both pumps and indicate the rpm speed of pump 1. The 3 pin is supposed to indicate the rpm speed of pump 2. Might be my inexact description of the cable as "Y-splitter" that's confusing, the cable actually has four connections, two coming from the pump, the 4 pin pwm, and the 3 pin rpm.
> 
> 2 problems. I'm not getting an RPM speed for Fan 4. I'm also not getting any PWM specific controls when I select PWM.
> 
> Both pumps seem to be working so maybe something got buggered during my sleeving. Guess I'll start by checking that. Anybody else have any issues with this or thoughts as to what might be going wrong?


Well that makes more sense. I guess check the wiring and connectors/pins for why the RPM isn't showing on fan 4

The Aquaero has no PWM specific controls. The PWM signal is just a percentage just like the power control percentage.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bern43*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> I'm using the splitter that comes with the MCP35X2 pump. The cable has a 4 pin end for the PWM signal, which I've hooked up to Fan 4. It also has a 3 pin end, which I've hooked up to Fan 3. The PWM 4 pin is supposed to provide the PWM signal to both pumps and indicate the rpm speed of pump 1. The 3 pin is supposed to indicate the rpm speed of pump 2. Might be my inexact description of the cable as "Y-splitter" that's confusing, the cable actually has four connections, two coming from the pump, the 4 pin pwm, and the 3 pin rpm.
> 
> 2 problems. I'm not getting an RPM speed for Fan 4. I'm also not getting any PWM specific controls when I select PWM.
> 
> Both pumps seem to be working so maybe something got buggered during my sleeving. Guess I'll start by checking that. Anybody else have any issues with this or thoughts as to what might be going
> 
> 
> wrong?


you only need to use the PWM header that comes w/ the Y splitter. It will provide you with the PWM & RPM functionality.(but read both pumps as one unit)

What you are trying to do is a bit redundant, but to get it to work (i think) you would need to remove all but the RPM wire from the 3 pin header on the splitter. Both pumps are always going to run @ the same speed when running off of one header. A slight variance will exist (1-10RPM) which can be chalked up to silicon lottery. Sounds like you are confusing the pumps by having both headers plugged in @ the same time, which leaves me to believe (sorry if I have missed it) that you are plugging in the 3 pin w/o removing the non-RPM wires.


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> you only need to use the PWM header that comes w/ the Y splitter. It will provide you with the PWM & RPM functionality.(but read both pumps as one unit)
> 
> What you are trying to do is a bit redundant, but to get it to work (i think) you would need to remove all but the RPM wire from the 3 pin header on the splitter. Both pumps are always going to run @ the same speed when running off of one header. A slight variance will exist (1-10RPM) which can be chalked up to silicon lottery. Sounds like you are confusing the pumps by having both headers plugged in @ the same time, which leaves me to believe (sorry if I have missed it) that you are plugging in the 3 pin w/o removing the non-RPM wires.


Its a standard cable that is already set up correctly
http://www.swiftech.com/PWMsplittercable.aspx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *failwheeldrive*
> 
> I apologize if this seems like a dumb question, but does anyone know if there would be a problem with making a custom 5 pin USB cable and using it with my Aquaero 5 Pro? I normally wouldn't think twice about making a custom cable, but since the stock cable that comes with the Aquaero is insulated with foil that is connected to the ground wires I thought there might be an issue with not following that design. Any input would be greatly appreciated, as the stock cable is a total pain to work with lol.


Are you sure the shielding is connected to the ground?
I just made some shorter cables with shielded USB wire from MODDIY and they work fine. If they are short enough shielding should not really be required.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> Its a standard cable that is already set up correctly
> http://www.swiftech.com/PWMsplittercable.aspx
> Are you sure the shielding is connected to the ground?
> I just made some shorter cables with shielded USB wire from MODDIY and they work fine. If they are short enough shielding should not really be required.


I have the cable in my hand,







my hypothesis was that hooking up both headers would mess things up unless you pull all but the RPM wire from the 3 pin terminal.


----------



## failwheeldrive

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> Its a standard cable that is already set up correctly
> http://www.swiftech.com/PWMsplittercable.aspx
> Are you sure the shielding is connected to the ground?
> I just made some shorter cables with shielded USB wire from MODDIY and they work fine. If they are short enough shielding should not really be required.


Thanks for the reply. It's been a while since I have torn the insulation off a shielded usb cable, but I am almost positive the shielding is connected to the two ground wires at the end of the connector. I could be mistaken though. The cable needs to be around 10 or 12 inches long, much shorter than the factory one. I have considered shortening the cable, but it isn't fun shortening usb sables like that and I would rather not have a cable with such thick insulation. I would guess a custom cable would work, but I wanted to be sure before potentially running into any issues.


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> I have the cable in my hand,
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> my hypothesis was that hooking up both headers would mess things up unless you pull all but the RPM wire from the 3 pin terminal.


Oh, OK. Seeing as the pumps have no power wires connected to the splitter it can't really make any difference. They are just included so it can be used with fans as well.
He mentioned he had done some sleeving work so I suspect a connector or pin problem.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *failwheeldrive*
> 
> Thanks for the reply. It's been a while since I have torn the insulation off a shielded usb cable, but I am almost positive the shielding is connected to the two ground wires at the end of the connector. I could be mistaken though. The cable needs to be around 10 or 12 inches long, much shorter than the factory one. I have considered shortening the cable, but it isn't fun shortening usb sables like that and I would rather not have a cable with such thick insulation. I would guess a custom cable would work, but I wanted to be sure before potentially running into any issues.


I had a look at my standard cables and I see what you mean about the ground connection at the heatshrink.
The USB wire I used was only 4 wire so that was all I used on the connectors. My Bitfenix extensions only use 4 wire anyway so I figured it couldn't make much difference. The wires I made are only 30CM long so I'm only speaking from that limited experience.


----------



## failwheeldrive

I doubt I need more than 30cm, so I'll go ahead and try out a custom cable. It'll definitely make cable management easier, since the usb cable is the only non-custom cable in my entire rig. Thanks again for your help! +rep


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> A suggestion for Darlene: The front page of this club thread still says this:
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Know Issues & Compatibility List
> 
> Known Issues:
> 
> PWM Version of the D5 not controllable with the A6
> *PWM Version of the Corsair fans not controllable
> with more than 5 or 6 on a channel*
> 
> 
> 
> Now that newer versions of the Aquaero 6 have reportedly/hopefully addressed the Corsair PWM fan issue, perhaps an asterisk can be added along with a note and a link to a post on how to tell if you have a newer version or not.
> 
> On that note, has anyone tested the newer Aquaero with a larger number of Corsair PWM fans to see how well it works?
Click to expand...

Good idea, . . . .

I've been swamped lately at work again, with limited time for other things.

I keep planning to take the heatsink off one of mine and trying to get a really nice close up pic to use for illustration, but life seems to keep getting in the way.

I've been hoping that we might hear from someone with the new version who has Corsair fans and could give some feedback.

I'm not exactly keen on buying another A6 myself to test it until I know for sure that PPC's or FCPU has the new ones.

I'll update the first post soon though, with info on the newer version, and / or a link to a new post with pics and the info to tell them apart.

Darlene


----------



## Costas

Darlene - I can confirm that FCPU have the latest hardware revision - ie with the lower value SMD resistors fitted. Out of curiosity it was pretty much the first thing I checked.

I only purchased one from FCPU late last week and it arrived 'DownUnder' today actually....!

I have spent the last couple of hours playing with the unit on my bench this evening, just with a couple of fans and temp sensors so that I can familiarise myself with the software.

Overall I found it quite easy to drive and was setting up all sorts of configurations after a short hands-on session.

I'm so glad I purchased this unit - I was originally looking at other 'fan controllers' in the $100 price bracket but opted for the Aquaero 6XT as a last minute decision. There is no comparison really.

Originally concerned that I would need to master the German language to get the most out of it...it only took me a few minutes of playing with the menus and features to work out that it is quite logical and intuitive to operate....









Unfortunately I am not utilising Corsair fans in my new build so I cannot test the compatibility issue.....

BTW - I also think there has been some confusion in regards to identifying the correct resistors earlier in the thread.

The resistors marked '473' are certainly not 47 ohm resistors with a 'backwards 'E'. they are indeed 47K Ohm resistors [ie 47,000 ohms].

47 Ohm SMD resistors are marked '470'.


----------



## gdubc

My 6xt was shipped from frozencpu on March 13th and I just checked it and it is also the new version.

I also have some sp120 pwm fans but only 6 so I won't be able to check beyond that.


----------



## VSG

Unless I have an AQ6 on 'roids, 6 SP120s per channel should still work on each channel- be it the old or the new one- but some of the guys here said they could not go higher than 5. Do let us know how it works for you.


----------



## bern43

Got the PWM working for my pumps. Turns out one of the connectors was loose. My crimping skills still need lots of improving.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bern43*
> 
> Got the PWM working for my pumps. Turns out one of the connectors was loose. My crimping skills still need lots of improving.


excellent


----------



## skupples

so you are able to pull the tach from both pumps now?


----------



## deFiniLoGy

Can I join please









Owner of Aquaero 5 XT and 6 XT









Just wondering, have anyone thought of using an expansion PCB like Jeak amp and Divapter to control some high current pumps?

I am thinking about controlling a Koolance PMP-500 (12V/3A).

Also, just wondering if anyone is using a EK DCP4.0 PWM with Aquaero 6 XT?

The DCP 4.0 has 2 pin of PWM cable and 2 pin at Molex fat connector, do you just plug in the PWM cable to the PWM header on the Aquaero?

It looks to me the pump is pulling power from the molex and controlled over the PWM cable.


----------



## SinatraFan

Can Shaggy or anyone else answer this question?

I know the power input for the AQ6 is a 4 pin molex, but... does the AQ feed off of all 4 wires or just the 12V lead and a Ground? I'm hoping just the 12V plus ground of course, but either way is fine.

I'm finishing up my harnesses and if it's all 4 wires, then I need to create a separate harness. Thanks


----------



## seross69

I
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SinatraFan*
> 
> Can Shaggy or anyone else answer this question?
> 
> I know the power input for the AQ6 is a 4 pin molex, but... does the AQ feed off of all 4 wires or just the 12V lead and a Ground? I'm hoping just the 12V plus ground of course, but either way is fine.
> 
> I'm finishing up my harnesses and if it's all 4 wires, then I need to create a separate harness. Thanks


.

I am not 100% but i think it does us the 5v too.. Dont have laptop in front of me and i have answer their for sure!!


----------



## mandrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SinatraFan*
> 
> Can Shaggy or anyone else answer this question?
> 
> I know the power input for the AQ6 is a 4 pin molex, but... does the AQ feed off of all 4 wires or just the 12V lead and a Ground? I'm hoping just the 12V plus ground of course, but either way is fine.
> 
> I'm finishing up my harnesses and if it's all 4 wires, then I need to create a separate harness. Thanks


seross is correct.
The AQ5 certainly needs the 5V so I assume the AQ6 does as well.
Now, the PA2's only need 12v.


----------



## SinatraFan

All four wires it is then...

I'll make a separate extension just for the AQ6 then...

The more I think of it, that isn't a bad idea anyway considering it will power 28 fans


----------



## bern43

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> so you are able to pull the tach from both pumps now?


Yup, did a quick curve control last night. Everything seems to be working great. Next step for me is getting some of the air temp sensors set up and setting up a curve control based on the water to air delta. Where does everyone put their air temp sensors?


----------



## skupples

I only have one and it senses air going into my flex bay mounted 480


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bern43*
> 
> Yup, did a quick curve control last night. Everything seems to be working great. Next step for me is getting some of the air temp sensors set up and setting up a curve control based on the water to air delta. Where does everyone put their air temp sensors?


Its super easy for air temp sensors to be affected by system air. To prevent that I have two sensors on air intakes in front of fans that are completely sealed off with neoprene from any recycled air from the case or other sources. Its pretty easy to see if its an issue because your ambient will rise along with load. It can also help to use multiple sensors and sort them with a virtual sensor finding either the average or lowest temp.

That way you end up with a nice steady ambient temp as load and system temp increases



Of course you could also just position the sensor outside of the system all together but that would look funny.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Perhaps Aquacomputer should come out with a wall-mount thermometer (& maybe does double-duty as a clock) that wirelessly communicates with the aquaero for a more reliable ambient.


----------



## VSG

Careful now, they would charge extra for the optional black clock face and the digital readout meter. Oh and you will also have to buy the wifi/bluetooth module separately









Shoggy, you know I love you and AQ but that was a jab at your marketing/sales department- nothing more, nothing less.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Cha-Ching!!!


----------



## deFiniLoGy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *deFiniLoGy*
> 
> Can I join please
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Owner of Aquaero 5 XT and 6 XT
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just wondering, have anyone thought of using an expansion PCB like Jeak amp and Divapter to control some high current pumps?
> 
> I am thinking about controlling a Koolance PMP-500 (12V/3A).
> 
> Also, just wondering if anyone is using a EK DCP4.0 PWM with Aquaero 6 XT?
> 
> The DCP 4.0 has 2 pin of PWM cable and 2 pin at Molex fat connector, do you just plug in the PWM cable to the PWM header on the Aquaero?
> 
> It looks to me the pump is pulling power from the molex and controlled over the PWM cable.


So do anyone knows the answer to this question?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *deFiniLoGy*
> 
> Can I join please
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Owner of Aquaero 5 XT and 6 XT
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just wondering, have anyone thought of using an expansion PCB like Jeak amp and Divapter to control some high current pumps?
> 
> I am thinking about controlling a Koolance PMP-500 (12V/3A).
> 
> Also, just wondering if anyone is using a EK DCP4.0 PWM with Aquaero 6 XT?
> 
> The DCP 4.0 has 2 pin of PWM cable and 2 pin at Molex fat connector, do you just plug in the PWM cable to the PWM header on the Aquaero?
> 
> It looks to me the pump is pulling power from the molex and controlled over the PWM cable.


So do anyone knows the answer to my previous question? Sorry if I am being dumb


----------



## Shoggy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Oh and you will also have to buy the wifi/*bluetooth module* separately


True words, true words...


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> True words, true words...


I dont care I WANt IT!!!!!


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> True words, true words...


I bet you love teasing us like that


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> I bet you love teasing us like that


You know I think he thinks we are kidding!!! we might complain but if they released this we would all buy it multiply times!!! because I lose things

Now @shoggy give it to us!!!


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> You know I think he thinks we are kidding!!! we might complain but if they released this we would all buy it multiply times!!! because I lose things
> 
> Now @shoggy give it to us!!!


Ya, I may not always agree with the way they manage sales but I know there isn't anything else in the market like the Aquaero at this time and I still recommend this to anyone who has the need for it. Heck, I may end up getting a second one depending on how my TX10-D build goes.


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *deFiniLoGy*
> 
> So do anyone knows the answer to this question?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *deFiniLoGy*
> 
> Can I join please
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Owner of Aquaero 5 XT and 6 XT
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just wondering, have anyone thought of using an expansion PCB like Jeak amp and Divapter to control some high current pumps?
> 
> I am thinking about controlling a Koolance PMP-500 (12V/3A).
> 
> Also, just wondering if anyone is using a EK DCP4.0 PWM with Aquaero 6 XT?
> 
> The DCP 4.0 has 2 pin of PWM cable and 2 pin at Molex fat connector, do you just plug in the PWM cable to the PWM header on the Aquaero?
> 
> It looks to me the pump is pulling power from the molex and controlled over the PWM cable.


I don't know about the Jeak amp, but the second question: yes you just plug the cable with the PWM into the Aquaero and let the PSU power the 12V to the pump.


----------



## Costas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> I keep planning to take the heatsink off one of mine and trying to get a really nice close up pic to use for illustration


Since mine is not mounted as yet....Here are two quick pics..........










Closer look at the 47 Ohm resistors - note that a few earlier pics in this thread had incorrectly identified the '473' marked SMD resistors [which are lower down in the photo] as the actual resistors, however those are 47K Ohm resistors. 47 Ohm resistors are marked '470.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Costas*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> I keep planning to take the heatsink off one of mine and trying to get a really nice close up pic to use for illustration
> 
> 
> 
> Since mine is not mounted as yet....Here are two quick pics..........
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Closer look at the 47 Ohm resistors - note that a few earlier pics in this thread had incorrectly identified the '473' marked SMD resistors [which are lower down in the photo] as the actual resistors, however those are 47K Ohm resistors. 47 Ohm resistors are marked '470.
Click to expand...

Absolutely super!!!

That's exactly what I was wanting to do.

You're correct about which resistors are the 47 ohm and that in a previous pic, the 47K ohm, (473) were mis-identified as the ones to look at.

+rep

The original resistors are marked "100", which really makes it hard to reconcile that "470" is lower, but there are several somewhat conflicting/ambiguous marking systems in use by different manufacturers to make sure we stay confused.

If the older 100 ohm resistors had used the same identification system as the new 47 ohm ones, they would have "101" on them, though neither of those identification systems are the most commonly used here in the states.

See here for pics of various different systems:

https://www.google.co.vi/search?q=surface+mount+resistor+markings&hl=en-GB&rlz=1T4GGHP_en-GBVI477VI477&tbm=isch&tbo=u&source=univ&sa=X&ei=_Gl1U86uM4jesASb-YJA&ved=0CDcQsAQ

Darlene

Do you mind if I use that pic in the previous post for better clarity, please.


----------



## Costas

Yes - I agree, there can be some confusion although the labeling standards for SMD devices have been standardised. My background is in electronics, so I'm used to the labeling irregularities... although I also stumble sometimes...









Here is a simple calculator you may find handy - Just type in the text written on the actual resistor to calculate the actual value: http://www.hobby-hour.com/electronics/smdcalc.php

For instance - when we look at my photos above - you can see some resistors marked as '01C' - These are simply 10K resistors.

A 100 Ohm resistor using the same labeling standard would appear as '01A'.

BTW - By all means, use the photos as you wish.

Costas


----------



## gdubc

Derp. I looked at the wrong ones also. Mine are labled 101.


----------



## fast_fate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Costas*
> 
> Since mine is not mounted as yet....Here are two quick pics..........
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Closer look at the 47 Ohm resistors - note that a few earlier pics in this thread had incorrectly identified the '473' marked SMD resistors [which are lower down in the photo] as the actual resistors, however those are 47K Ohm resistors. 47 Ohm resistors are marked '470.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


That is a great info share Costas








Nice Work !!!


----------



## madcratebuilder

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bern43*
> 
> Yup, did a quick curve control last night. Everything seems to be working great. Next step for me is getting some of the air temp sensors set up and setting up a curve control based on the water to air delta. Where does everyone put their air temp sensors?


I'm a bit overkill with air temp sensors, 1 at front air intake with sensor in front of the blades. I on rear case exhaust, top rad (exhaust-push/pull) has sensors on intake and exhaust sides.


----------



## side37

Does anyone know if it's possible to setup alarm actions for aquabus connected D5 pumps on the Aquaero? I have just setup 2 aquabus D5 pumps and the Aquaero can see the RPM of the pumps so I would of thought I'd be able to setup alarms for them but can't see how. Trying to add a pump alarm only lists aquastream XT 1 and 2 as data sources.

Edit: I think the RPM value is actually coming over USB and not the aquabus so maybe it won't be possible to set alarms on the Aquaero for the pumps without connecting a tacho cable to each pump


----------



## MakeItSo

I'm in the process of planning a new build and this definitely seems to be the best fan controller out there.
Is the Aquasuite software necessary to use an Aquaero 6? It appears that Linux isn't supported.


----------



## side37

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MakeItSo*
> 
> I'm in the process of planning a new build and this definitely seems to be the best fan controller out there.
> Is the Aquasuite software necessary to use an Aquaero 6? It appears that Linux isn't supported.


You can configure/monitor the Aquaero using the buttons on the unit itself, but I find the software is quicker/easier. You don't really need the software at all.


----------



## MakeItSo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *side37*
> 
> You can configure/monitor the Aquaero using the buttons on the unit itself, but I find the software is quicker/easier. You don't really need the software at all.


Awesome thanks!


----------



## jdpworks

Can I use the Aquaero 5 LT USB controller and Power Adjust 2 with EK D5 X-Res Pumps without any mods?
I have already have 2 EK D5 pumps so I assume I will need 2 x Power Adjusts but I'm just not sure I the 5 LT USB controller
will work with these and deliver all sensor information..

It uses this pump:
http://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-d5-vario-laing-d5-vario.html


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jdpworks*
> 
> Can I use the Aquaero 5 LT USB controller and Power Adjust 2 with EK D5 X-Res Pumps without any mods?
> I have already have 2 EK D5 pumps so I assume I will need 2 x Power Adjusts but I'm just not sure I the 5 LT USB controller
> will work with these and deliver all sensor information..
> 
> It uses this pump:
> http://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-d5-vario-laing-d5-vario.html


Yes it will work without any mods. The poweradjust comes with a special pump adaptor cable that combines the RPM and power cables into one fan header for the poweradjust to use.
D5 Vario's are not really designed to be voltage controlled though. You will have a reduced range of RPM adjustment compared to just using the dial. Unless you have the pump running at reasonably high volts all the time the poweradjust will be running very warm all the time. They get hotter the more they have to reduce the voltage from 12V.

Not sure what you mean by sensor information? There is only RPM and yes that is reported to the poweradjust.


----------



## JLMS2010

So does that mean it will work with a 24v D5 Laing pump as well? *This* comes with a 24v pump.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JLMS2010*
> 
> So does that mean it will work with a 24v D5 Laing pump as well? *This* comes with a 24v pump.


That is not a 24v d5 pump so far as I can tell. If i recall correctly the only d5 at 24 v are the "strong" version.

12 v * 2 A = *24 W*

here we go:

http://martinsliquidlab.org/2011/03/05/koolance-pmp-450s-d5-strong-pump/


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> That is not a 24v d5 pump so far as I can tell. If i recall correctly the only d5 at 24 v are the "strong" version.
> 
> 12 v * 2 A = *24 W*
> 
> here we go:
> 
> http://martinsliquidlab.org/2011/03/05/koolance-pmp-450s-d5-strong-pump/


Isn't that what the D5 is with that EK pump res combo. It does say "_This unit offers increased hydraulic performance (up to 15 %) compared to original Laing D5 Vario_" in the product description and the specs say "_Operating voltage range: 8 to 24 VDC_".

In any case, I have long been under the impression that all of the non-vario or non-pwm D5s are the same pump that some resellers market as the 'strong' version. At 12v they operate at about speed 4 of the vario, but are capable of handling 24v. Have I been wrong about that? Pretty sure all of the D5 pumps I've seen available from Laing have been 24v capable . I always just assumed they were all a D5 'strong' unless some sort of speed control had been added to it.

[edit: I should add that I've only ever seen one 'D5' from Laing. I tried looking it up just now but since they were bought out by ITT subsidiary Xylem I don't even see that they are making the D5 any more. FWIW I do still the DDC listed and they do now have an E5 that looks a bit like the D5]


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Isn't that what the D5 is with that EK pump res combo. It does say "_This unit offers increased hydraulic performance (up to 15 %) compared to original Laing D5 Vario_" in the product description and the specs say "_Operating voltage range: 8 to 24 VDC_".
> 
> In any case, I have long been under the impression that all of the non-vario or non-pwm D5s are the same pump that some resellers market as the 'strong' version. At 12v they operate at about speed 4 of the vario, but are capable of handling 24v. Have I been wrong about that? Pretty sure all of the D5 pumps I've seen available from Laing have been 24v capable . I always just assumed they were all a D5 'strong' unless some sort of speed control had been added to it.
> 
> [edit: I should add that I've only ever seen one 'D5' from Laing. I tried looking it up just now but since they were bought out by ITT subsidiary Xylem I don't even see that they are making the D5 any more. FWIW I do still the DDC listed and they do now have an E5 that looks a bit like the D5]


My impression is that they are all capable yes but few models actually are wired/pcb to use 24 v. Most models are wired to use 12 v. Yes they are capable of going up to 24 v but almost none of them go there. They use 12 v. I was able to locate the pages with pdfs for the d5 from Laing a couple of months ago...Not sure now.

here we go:

http://unitedstates.xylemappliedwater.com/brands/laing-thermotech/industrial-commercial-pumps/dc-series/

the 15% figure so far as I can tell is the marketing thing about the d5 with the ek top compared to d5 with original top, not about the pump itself. I might be wrong of course.


----------



## JLMS2010

The back of my pump specifically says 24v. Is this wrong? The other D5 I have says 12v. I have 2, 1 that cam in the EKres/D5 combo and one that came with a D5 alphacool kit. I'm was going to use both of them in my next build, but noticed 1 said 24v on the back.

I just purchased the Aquaero 6XT controller and am waiting for it to arrive.


----------



## Gabrielzm

My D5 swiftech PWM models all say 8-24 volts but they only run at 12 v. That's what we were talking about. I don't think that is a problem for the Aquaero to handle. Your koolance model is the PMP-450S? If so that is the strong version which actually can reach 24 v. In any case the aquaero 6 is capable of handling what 2.5 A per channel (with a safe limit up to 3 A where will disable the channel)? That would be more than enough juice to handle the pump. The strong is rated at 2.3 A if memory serves.

*EDIT - Oh yeah, I forgot to mention that most D5 pumps will get the 12 v directly from the psu regulating the rpm via PWM wire or voltage 3 pin line (or the small red knob on the vario). So, to get 24 v you usually will need something like this:*

http://martinsliquidlab.org/2011/02/28/koolance-ctr-spd24-10-24-volt-speed-controller/


----------



## JLMS2010

Ahh ok. That makes sense. I'll just set the red arrow to setting 5 and use the Aquaero to to adjust it accordingly. Thanks!


----------



## jdpworks

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> Yes it will work without any mods. The poweradjust comes with a special pump adaptor cable that combines the RPM and power cables into one fan header for the poweradjust to use.
> D5 Vario's are not really designed to be voltage controlled though. You will have a reduced range of RPM adjustment compared to just using the dial. Unless you have the pump running at reasonably high volts all the time the poweradjust will be running very warm all the time. They get hotter the more they have to reduce the voltage from 12V.
> 
> Not sure what you mean by sensor information? There is only RPM and yes that is reported to the poweradjust.


Bottom of my Vario:



Hey Thanks for the reply.

Maybe you guys could help me sort out exactly what I need to get from Aqua computer.
The control and software look to be the best out there.
I don't really want the lcd screen.

I'm running a Asus Maximus Formula VI.
I assume none of the fan headers on my mobo will be used, Asus Fan Expert has no information.
I know the mobo will not start unless there is something hooked to the CPU_FAN, do I disable this?

My Setup:

2 x EK D5 Vario Pumps, One loop for GPU, one loop for Mobo.

Fan Group 1, 4 x GT, (GPU RAD)
Fan Group 2, 3 x GT, (MOBO RAD)
Fan Group 4, 3 x GT Intake
Fan Group 5, 3 x GT Intake

I will just leave the pump @ 12v and do not plan to alter speed.

I would like to however monitor pump rpm and flow.
I would like to know water temp before and after each rad.
I would like to control each fan group separately.
I would like some sort of emergency shutdown.

Help appreciated with my first water build!









I do have a couple of these lying around 2, not sure if I can use them inline with the Aquero


----------



## Jakusonfire

All D5's are 24V capable, it just doesn't provide much benefit at all in any but the strong version because they are speed limited to 4800RPM. There are 4 types of D5; the Basic, Vario, PWM and Strong.
If it has a speed dial it is a Vario.
That I have seen, only Swiftech sells the basic model and only Koolance sell the Strong. The Basic is speed limited to about 4000 RPM while the Strong will go up to near 6000 with 24V


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> All D5's are 24V capable, it just doesn't provide much benefit at all in any but the strong version because they are speed limited to 4800RPM. There are 4 types of D5; the Basic, Vario, PWM and Strong.
> If it has a speed dial it is a Vario.
> That I have seen, only Swiftech sells the basic model and only Koolance sell the Strong. The Basic is speed limited to about 4000 RPM while the Strong will go up to near 6000 with 24V


Thank you for the reply. That confirms what I thought. I would also add the Aquacomputer D5 to that list since the custom pcb add some interesting capabilities. If I am not mistake it is a vario with a custom pcb?


----------



## mandrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jdpworks*
> 
> Bottom of my Vario:
> 
> 
> 
> Hey Thanks for the reply.
> 
> Maybe you guys could help me sort out exactly what I need to get from Aqua computer.
> The control and software look to be the best out there.
> I don't really want the lcd screen.
> 
> I'm running a Asus Maximus Formula VI.
> I assume none of the fan headers on my mobo will be used, Asus Fan Expert has no information.
> I know the mobo will not start unless there is something hooked to the CPU_FAN, do I disable this?
> 
> My Setup:
> 
> 2 x EK D5 Vario Pumps, One loop for GPU, one loop for Mobo.
> 
> Fan Group 1, 4 x GT, (GPU RAD)
> Fan Group 2, 3 x GT, (MOBO RAD)
> Fan Group 4, 3 x GT Intake
> Fan Group 5, 3 x GT Intake
> 
> I will just leave the pump @ 12v and do not plan to alter speed.
> 
> I would like to however monitor pump rpm and flow.
> I would like to know water temp before and after each rad.
> I would like to control each fan group separately.
> I would like some sort of emergency shutdown.
> 
> Help appreciated with my first water build!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I do have a couple of these lying around 2, not sure if I can use them inline with the Aquero


You can take the tach output from the Aquaero and hook it to the cpu fan header on the motherboard....that's basically what it's for. The PA2's also have the tach header.


----------



## jdpworks

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mandrix*
> 
> You can take the tach output from the Aquaero and hook it to the cpu fan header on the motherboard....that's basically what it's for. The PA2's also have the tach header.


Awesome man! Thanks so much for your help here and on the Aquacomputer forum. It`s all starting to make sense now!


----------



## mandrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jdpworks*
> 
> Awesome man! Thanks so much for your help here and on the Aquacomputer forum. It`s all starting to make sense now!


Always glad to help.


----------



## jdpworks

Anyone know if the Aquaero 6 can use rpm info from the cpu_fan header on a mobo?


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jdpworks*
> 
> Anyone know if the Aquaero 6 can use rpm info from the cpu_fan header on a mobo?


The cpu_fan header on a mobo does not send an rpm signal that anything could use. It receives it from whatever device (fan, pump) is plugged into it.


----------



## jdpworks

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> The cpu_fan header on a mobo does not send an rpm signal that anything could use. It receives it from whatever device (fan, pump) is plugged into it.


So if I have a D5 Vario with the rpm cable plugged into the cpu_fan header on my mobo will Aquasuite be able to read the rpm?


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Yep. That's exactly what the rpm cable on a pump is intended to be used for.


----------



## jdpworks

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Yep. That's exactly what the rpm cable on a pump is intended to be used for.


Thanks, yes I understand that but will Aquasuite 2014 read the rpm from the cpu_fan header. I'm trying to avoid plugging it into one of the 4 headers on Aquaero 6


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jdpworks*
> 
> Thanks, yes I understand that but will Aquasuite 2014 read the rpm from the cpu_fan header. I'm trying to avoid plugging it into one of the 4 headers on Aquaero 6










Oh I forgot what thread I was reading. I misread Aquasuite & instead was thinking you were referring to a mobo software something along the lines of ASUS' AI Suite / Fan Expert or whatnot. I have no idea if there's any way that Aquasuite can read the rpm signal from a mobo header. Perhaps if its something that can be read by HWiNFO or AIDA64, but I don't know enough about it. Hopefully someone else here can be more definitive.


----------



## Jakusonfire

If its not plugged into the Aquaero it can't read RPM. They could probably add that to Aquasuite using OHM or similar but at the moment it isn't included.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> If its not plugged into the Aquaero it can't read RPM. They could probably add that to Aquasuite using OHM or similar but at the moment it isn't included.


Are fan rpms plugged into a mobo not something that's monitored by HWiNFO or AIDA64? If so, then it could be imported into Aquasuite couldn't it? If not, then I suppose not..


----------



## Jakusonfire

It could be, but that would require Aquasuite software sensors to include RPM's and at the moment they don't. Only temps


----------



## riesscar

I am an A6 Pro Owner w/ passive Heatsink. Add me if ya would. I can confirm the D5 pump issue... at least as far as pwm control over a Swiftech MCP-355b is concerned. I also ran into the corsair fan pwm issue, and a workaround is to choose a non-corsair pwm fan as your data cable fan (I.e. the one that tells the Aquaero what rpm's and specs the fans on the splitter have) and they are all controllable... just make sure to use fans with similar specs.

Good idea for a thread, because most of the stuff out there is in German.

-Carson


----------



## Shoggy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> It could be, but that would require Aquasuite software sensors to include RPM's and at the moment they don't. Only temps


Right, but this will be possible with a version in the future. Every numeric value can be taken to set a minimum and maximum so it can be scaled to 0-100%. So you could adjust the fans by your network speed for example


----------



## jdpworks

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> Right, but this will be possible with a version in the future. Every numeric value can be taken to set a minimum and maximum so it can be scaled to 0-100%. So you could adjust the fans by your network speed for example


Wow this is good news! I hope this feature set gets implemented soon.

Will Bitspower/Koolance/Phobya sensors also work with Aquaero 6? What specifications should I look for?

Think I have enough info to buy myself one of these awesome tools. Excited to implement it into my build.


----------



## Shoggy

Other temperature sensors must be a 10kOhm NTC. If you want to do it absolutely correct you should also look after the so called B value which should be 3435.


----------



## madcratebuilder

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> Right, but this will be possible with a version in the future. Every numeric value can be taken to set a minimum and maximum so it can be scaled to 0-100%. So you could adjust the fans by your network speed for example


Is there any plan to increase the number of "software sensors" that can be displayed? Now it is limited to 8 sensors, I could use 10 or more sensors displayed.


----------



## Shoggy

No idea since I am not the programmer who is on holiday at the moment









If there will be more software sensors it must be 4 because otherwise we would get problems with our internal structure. And also this structure is the main problem since we can not assign an unlimited amount of sensors. The software sensors are also a bit special since they require additional resources because of their fall back features etc.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *riesscar*
> 
> I am an A6 Pro Owner w/ passive Heatsink. Add me if ya would. I can confirm the D5 pump issue... at least as far as pwm control over a Swiftech MCP-355b is concerned. I also ran into the corsair fan pwm issue, and a workaround is to choose a non-corsair pwm fan as your data cable fan (I.e. the one that tells the Aquaero what rpm's and specs the fans on the splitter have) and they are all controllable... just make sure to use fans with similar specs.
> 
> Good idea for a thread, because most of the stuff out there is in German.
> 
> -Carson


What pump do you have? Neither the MCP-355 (ddc pump) or if you mistype the MCP-655B are PWM models.


----------



## jdpworks

I've decided to go with 1 x 6 XT as I think this will suit my needs.
For now I will connect the rpm from 2 x D5 Varios pumps to the cpu_fan headers and wait until I can port this into Aquasuite as per Shoggy's info.

The Aquaero comes with 4 air temp probes.
From what I gather the most important sensors to add to this are flow and temp.
I see I can connect this to the high port of the Aquabus: Flow Sensor 53129



This also seems to have a port for an external temp reading. It appears I can use one of these Inline Flow G 1/4

I cannot seem to find this inline temp sensor online in any US/Canadian shops in stock. FrozenCpu does not stock them. But they do have these Koolance 10k, there are also Phobya..

So will the Flow meter sensor block, 53129 report back flow as well as temp via the Aquabus to Aquasuite?
Any ideas where I can buy the Aquacomputer Inline sensor in Canada/US?
Is there some other inline sensor anyone can recommend?

If I want to hook 2 of these Inline 53129 to Aquabus High port I assume I will need a Aquabus Y cable?

If I want to use the relay connection for an emergency shutdown switch I would like to use a military style switch Do I use a toggle or an on/off. My hunch would suggest on/off.

I have 2 of these DarkSide LED strips I assume I would need to join the two ends and make a custom 3 pin cable with the common on pin 3 and respective 12v lines on pin 1 and 2. Is this correct?
Will Aquasuite allow me to increase voltage to the LED strip the hotter an inline sensor reads? Set minimum and maximum voltage to the strip?

So many options and things to think about with this powerful controller. Your help with any of my questions is extremely appreciated!


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

PPCs has an Aquacomputer inline sensor with male / female threads (much more practical imho than the female-female one you linked)
http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=32775

That said, most any watercooling temp sensor should work just the same. IIRC Koolance are the only ones who make one that isn't 10kOhm.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jdpworks*
> 
> I've decided to go with 1 x 6 XT as I think this will suit my needs.
> For now I will connect the rpm from 2 x D5 Varios pumps to the cpu_fan headers and wait until I can port this into Aquasuite as per Shoggy's info.
> 
> The Aquaero comes with 4 air temp probes.
> From what I gather the most important sensors to add to this are flow and temp.
> I see I can connect this to the high port of the Aquabus: Flow Sensor 53129
> 
> 
> 
> This also seems to have a port for an external temp reading. It appears I can use one of these Inline Flow G 1/4
> 
> I cannot seem to find this inline temp sensor online in any US/Canadian shops in stock. FrozenCpu does not stock them. But they do have these Koolance 10k, there are also Phobya..
> 
> *So will the Flow meter sensor block, 53129 report back flow as well as temp via the Aquabus to Aquasuite?*
> Any ideas where I can buy the Aquacomputer Inline sensor in Canada/US?
> Is there some other inline sensor anyone can recommend?
> 
> If I want to hook 2 of these Inline 53129 to Aquabus High port I assume I will need a Aquabus Y cable?
> 
> If I want to use the relay connection for an emergency shutdown switch I would like to use a military style switch Do I use a toggle or an on/off. My hunch would suggest on/off.
> 
> I have 2 of these DarkSide LED strips I assume I would need to join the two ends and make a custom 3 pin cable with the common on pin 3 and respective 12v lines on pin 1 and 2. Is this correct?
> Will Aquasuite allow me to increase voltage to the LED strip the hotter an inline sensor reads? Set minimum and maximum voltage to the strip?
> 
> So many options and things to think about with this powerful controller. Your help with any of my questions is extremely appreciated!


Yep the flow meter also report the temperature directly to Aquasuite via USB. You can also connect it directly to the Aquaero. If you are going with two you will need the y-splitter. You might consider too the non usb version of it. So with two of these unit in the loop you will have already two water temp sensors. The temp probe is to attach another temp probe to the flow meter just like in the Aquaero. Not sure you will need since besides the 8 channels in the Aquaero + 2 in the flow meter you would end up with 10 temp sensors.


----------



## skupples

Not sure you would really need two flow sensors... Flow rate should be constant. And temp should only very by 1c max through the entire loop... Of course this is all from a practical stand point, thus not including aesthetic.


----------



## jdpworks

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> Not sure you would really need two flow sensors... Flow rate should be constant. And temp should only very by 1c max through the entire loop... Of course this is all from a practical stand point, thus not including aesthetic.


I probably didn't mention that I am running 2 separate loops. Hence why I would like a flow sensor in each loop, one temp reading pre and post rad.

So there is also this usb version

What are the main differences? How much flow they can measure?


----------



## skupples

Correct. I'm not really sure why they have all three models for that type. I've never seen anyone with sub 80lp/h. That's low enough to have a pretty big impact on temps.

I personally use the non-USB but only because I already have inline temp sensors that are compatible with the AQ6XT.


----------



## jdpworks

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> Correct. I'm not really sure why they have all three models for that type. I've never seen anyone with sub 80lp/h. That's low enough to have a pretty big impact on temps.
> 
> I personally use the non-USB but only because I already have inline temp sensors that are compatible with the AQ6XT.


Thanks for the info.
I chose the usb as it will run on the Aquabus and leaves additional sensor ports available on the AC6XT.
I assume 400 l/h is a safe bet for a small loop with a d5 vario?


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jdpworks*
> 
> Thanks for the info.
> I chose the usb as it will run on the Aquabus and leaves additional sensor ports available on the AC6XT.
> I assume 400 l/h is a safe bet for a small loop with a d5 vario?


Yep, it should be fine. Even if you add another d5 you will probably run both at lower speed and get something below the 400 figure. Yet, while are you getting this version and not the original one you post above (53129)? the 53129 goes from 40l/h up to 1500l/h


----------



## jdpworks

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Yep, it should be fine. Even if you add another d5 you will probably run both at lower speed and get something below the 400 figure. Yet, while are you getting this version and not the original one you post above (53129)? the 53129 goes from 40l/h up to 1500l/h


Honestly I'm not sure which one to buy. This is my first loop and want to put together a quality setup. I'm not sure how many l/h my pumps will be moving through the loop. Is the 53129 overkill? How many l/h do your loops move? I see the Laing D5 Vario is Maximum flow: up to 1500L/h, I guess 53129 would have the bases covered.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jdpworks*
> 
> Honestly I'm not sure which one to buy. This is my first loop and want to put together a quality setup. I'm not sure how many l/h my pumps will be moving through the loop. Is the 53129 overkill? How many l/h do your loops move?


I have two d5 PWM in a larger loop. Usually I leave at 0.7 GPM which is around 167 l/h. If I crank all the way up it could reach 1.6-1.7 gpm which is close to 385 l/h. One d5 usually will give you around 1 gpm in a loop with 2 or 3 rads and 1 cpu and 2 vgas blocks (~of course since that would depend on the restriction of blocks and the particulars of the loop). Personally I have the 53129 because it looks better in my opinion and is more flexible in the range of flow covered.

hope it helps


----------



## Shoggy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jdpworks*
> 
> If I want to hook 2 of these Inline 53129 to Aquabus High port I assume I will need a Aquabus Y cable?
> 
> If I want to use the relay connection for an emergency shutdown switch I would like to use a military style switch Do I use a toggle or an on/off. My hunch would suggest on/off.
> 
> I have 2 of these DarkSide LED strips I assume I would need to join the two ends and make a custom 3 pin cable with the common on pin 3 and respective 12v lines on pin 1 and 2. Is this correct?
> Will Aquasuite allow me to increase voltage to the LED strip the hotter an inline sensor reads? Set minimum and maximum voltage to the strip?


To be able to use two of these sensor you need the mentioned y-adapter and you also have to assign a different aquabus ID to one of these sensor. This can be only done via USB in the system tab (aquasuite software) of the sensor. Otherwise both sensors will try to communicate throughout the same ID which will not work.

I am not sure how this switch works. To be able to use it as an emergency power cut you would have to connect that into the green wire of the PSU. This wire controls if the PSU is working. As soon as this connection is interrupted the PC will turn off. If you also want to use the relay of the aquaero you would have to connect it the same way. So this will allow you to cut the power manually by using the switch or the aquaero can do it automatically with the relay. On the relay you have to use Pin 1 + 3.

The LED stripes can be also connected to the two 2-pin PWM headers. They provide a pulsed 12V signal and normally should be able to control the brightness of these stripes. If the stripes have some kind of own power control it might not work in the way it should. For example it could happen that you only have a small range to control the brightness. In this case you would have to use one of the fan headers. Pin 1 is ground and pin 2 is power.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Yep the flow meter also report the temperature directly to Aquasuite via USB.


To be able to use the sensor values in the aquaero they must be connected via aquabus. These values are not shared via USB.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jdpworks*
> 
> So there is also this usb version
> 
> What are the main differences? How much flow they can measure?


The mps flow XXX work with a differential pressure measurement and have no moving parts. The disadvantage is that out of the box they can be pretty inaccurate. The used fittings and tubing size has a massive effect on the measurement so for reliable values you would have to do your own calibration. That would require a bucket, a stop watch and some time or another flow sensor where you know that it shows a correct value from the beginning.

If I understand you correctly you want to use one sensor per loop and pump. In this case the 200 variant might make more sense. I assume you will not run the pumps at full speed so in a normal loop it is very unlikely that it will come even close to 200 l/h.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jdpworks*
> 
> I see the Laing D5 Vario is Maximum flow: up to 1500L/h


Forget about these values. They are measured without any resistance and therefore they are pretty useless. This pump will never ever reach anything like this in a real environment. If you get a bit about 200 l/h at full speed you can be happy.


----------



## jdpworks

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> The mps flow XXX work with a differential pressure measurement and have no moving parts. The disadvantage is that out of the box they can be pretty inaccurate. The used fittings and tubing size has a massive effect on the measurement so for reliable values you would have to do your own calibration. That would require a bucket, a stop watch and some time or another flow sensor where you know that it shows a correct value from the beginning.


Thanks so much for your help Shoggy. So the only real difference between MPS 400 and 53129 is 80-400l/h and 40-1500l/h respectively?

Once I connect each unit via usb and assign them different ID's in Aquasuite I assume I can disconnect the usb an use Aquabus. Or do I need to leave it connected to usb to report temp? Will this temp work through aquabus or usb?


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jdpworks*
> 
> Thanks so much for your help Shoggy. So the only real difference between MPS 400 and 53129 is 80-400l/h and 40-1500l/h respectively?
> 
> Once I connect each unit via usb and assign them different ID's in Aquasuite I assume I can disconnect the usb an use Aquabus.


Nope..As Shoggy said the MPS series will have to be calibrated manually in a situation you known how much flow happen during a certain time while the 53129 you don't need to do that since it have an impeller (moving part) where x rotations = y liters/m (or whatever unit you are using). I completely forgot about that and was one of the reasons I went with the 53129 a year ago.


----------



## Shoggy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jdpworks*
> 
> Once I connect each unit via usb and assign them different ID's in Aquasuite I assume I can disconnect the usb an use Aquabus. Or do I need to leave it connected to usb to report temp? Will this temp work through aquabus or usb?


Yes, you can disconnect the USB afterwards but in this case you have to use a *4*-pin aquabus cable because otherwise the sensor will get no power.


----------



## jdpworks

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> Yes, you can disconnect the USB afterwards but in this case you have to use a *4*-pin aquabus cable because otherwise the sensor will get no power.


Ok so after I program flow sensor id via usb. I can unplug usb, shutdown, connect 4 pin Aquabus and connect the 2 pin temp sensor. Everything AOK?


----------



## Shoggy

Yes.

USB and aquabus can be also used at the same time.


----------



## mandrix

@ jdpworks
Here's a few diagrams that might help you hooking up the relay to shut down the pc;



Just ignore the Standby power and the older model Aquaero and you still got the basic hookups:


----------



## jdpworks

@Mandrix Big Thanks!!
Also to everyone else here who has helped answer my questions. I'm stoked to get my AQXT6 up and running!


----------



## Nornam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nornam*
> 
> Been meaning to update my wares for ages now & have finally got around to it... So here is the list of AQ's I have...
> 
> 2 x Aquaero 5XT's, 1 x Aquaero 5Pro, 3 x Aquaero 5LT's......
> 
> 1 x Aquaero 6XT & 1 x Aquaero 6Pro....
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 6 x Power Adjust (Ultra's)
> 
> Am working on a couple of guides to add to my Aquaero Reviews/Guides & will hopefully have them done in the next couple of weeks
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Nornam (Namron)
> 
> P.S.. Thread is a great Idea Darlene & coming on very Nicely... Well Done & Good on ya girl


Thought you may have missed my "list" post from earlier Darlene







..... I know you have been very busy e.t.c... So,When & If you do get chance could you put me into the list







..

Thanks









Nam


----------



## jdpworks

Just ordered my Aquaero 6 XT today!

My next project/question, which probably goes beyond the scope of this thread, but maybe somebody has some experience or direction to another thread.

Is it possible to run each pump independently for service/bleed/top-up/testing without powering up the computer?
I do not want to remove the 24 pin molex to the motherboard. (I have 2 pumps/loops)

Now I do have an independent power supply with an on/off switch so I can hook it up manually to each pump. However I would like a nice functional slick looking system to do this, without having to unplug and re-plug wires.

In my head I see one master switch to turn it all on or enable. (Bypass the mobo)
One switch for pump 1 on/off
One switch from pump 2 on/off

Anyone have any suggestions?


----------



## gdubc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jdpworks*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Just ordered my Aquaero 6 XT today!
> 
> My next project/question, which probably goes beyond the scope of this thread, but maybe somebody has some experience or direction to another thread.
> 
> Is it possible to run each pump independently for service/bleed/top-up/testing without powering up the computer?
> I do not want to remove the 24 pin molex to the motherboard. (I have 2 pumps/loops)
> 
> Now I do have an independent power supply with an on/off switch so I can hook it up manually to each pump. However I would like a nice functional slick looking system to do this, without having to unplug and re-plug wires.
> 
> In my head I see one master switch to turn it all on or enable. (Bypass the mobo)
> One switch for pump 1 on/off
> One switch from pump 2 on/off
> 
> Anyone have any suggestions?


*@fast_fate* is working on something like that right now. Might want to check out his *build log*. Hope that helps!


----------



## jdpworks

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gdubc*
> 
> [/SPOILER]
> *@fast_fate* is working on something like that right now. Might want to check out his *build log*. Hope that helps!


Yes that does! He's deep into exactly what I wanna do!!


----------



## mandrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jdpworks*
> 
> @Mandrix Big Thanks!!
> Also to everyone else here who has helped answer my questions. I'm stoked to get my AQXT6 up and running!


Well I didn't make the diagrams, I just passed them on. I know they helped me so I figured they would do the same for you.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Sorry for the off topic post but one of our own is in a bad way.
Namron,a Specialtech regular and author of the Aquaero guide is seriously ill with lung cancer.

I would be greatly appreciative if you guys could just pop in to that thread and post messages of encouragement,he is dearly loved by us guys over there and we want him to know we as the watercooling community are rooting for him.

http://www.specialtechforums.co.uk/showthread.php?4865-Had-a-bit-of-a-shock-amp-some-not-such-good-news-today!!

Thanks guys.


----------



## kpoeticg

Damn i'm sorry to hear that. He was just in here a few days ago

His guide's have helped alot of people with aquaero's so i don't consider this off-topic


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nornam*
> 
> Am working on a couple of guides to add to my Aquaero Reviews/Guides & will hopefully have them done in the next couple of weeks


Really sorry to hear about your illness. Stay positive and fight for attention from the doctors.


----------



## mandrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Sorry for the off topic post but one of our own is in a bad way.
> Namron,a Specialtech regular and author of the Aquaero guide is seriously ill with lung cancer.
> 
> I would be greatly appreciative if you guys could just pop in to that thread and post messages of encouragement,he is dearly loved by us guys over there and we want him to know we as the watercooling community are rooting for him.
> 
> http://www.specialtechforums.co.uk/showthread.php?4865-Had-a-bit-of-a-shock-amp-some-not-such-good-news-today!!
> 
> Thanks guys.


Thanks for letting us know. I signed up over there to leave a message. I wish him great courage and luck beating that thing.


----------



## dseg

I have the Aquaero 6 XT with Aquacomputer's flow meter, LINK, I am cooling my GPU, CPU, and 3x 360 rads. I am pushing the water with 2x MCP655.

My flow meter says I am getting .7 gallons/hr. I do not think this is correct as I can see the water shooting out in the reservoir. Any ideas why my flow meter would be incorrect or how to fix this?

Not sure how I would calibrate it as I do not have another flow meter...


----------



## hiarc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dseg*
> 
> I have the Aquaero 6 XT with Aquacomputer's flow meter, LINK, I am cooling my GPU, CPU, and 3x 360 rads. I am pushing the water with 2x MCP655.
> 
> My flow meter says I am getting .7 gallons/hr. I do not think this is correct as I can see the water shooting out in the reservoir. Any ideas why my flow meter would be incorrect or how to fix this?
> 
> Not sure how I would calibrate it as I do not have another flow meter...


If the calibration value is at 169, shown here (in the sensors tab):



Then it is already calibrated and does indeed show the correct value without any real need to check. That is because it's an impeller type flow meter and calculates flow based on the number of rotations within a time frame, unlike their differential pressure flow meters (where you do need to calibrate it using another flow meter). Other than that there might be some air stuck somewhere or some other small issue I just can't think of right now, too tired.


----------



## dseg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hiarc*
> 
> If the calibration value is at 169, shown here (in the sensors tab):
> 
> 
> 
> Then it is already calibrated and does indeed show the correct value without any real need to check. That is because it's an impeller type flow meter and calculates flow based on the number of rotations within a time frame, unlike their differential pressure flow meters (where you do need to calibrate it using another flow meter). Other than that there might be some air stuck somewhere or some other small issue I just can't think of right now, too tired.


Well you made me check this and I see the max limit is 0.7... Is that not right? Why is it set to that as I did not touch this..


Do people usually report in gallons per minute or per hour?
What is the average for each or what is acceptable?


----------



## hiarc

Ah, yes you should change that! Those are the upper limits and lower limits of display (as it says on there







). For example, anything above 0.7 it just shows as 0.7 GPM. It might just default to 0.7GPM as I do not recall what mine was at.

I just put mine at 2.5 GPM just cause.









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dseg*
> 
> Do people usually report in gallons per minute or per hour?
> What is the average for each or what is acceptable?


I would guess it is mostly personal preference. For me it is easier to read values in GPM as I am more familiar with values this way.


----------



## dseg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hiarc*
> 
> Ah, yes you should change that! Those are the upper limits and lower limits of display (as it says on there
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ). For example, anything above 0.7 it just shows as 0.7 GPM. It might just default to 0.7GPM as I do not recall what mine was at.
> 
> I just put mine at 2.5 GPM just cause.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I would guess it is mostly personal preference. For me it is easier to read values in GPM as I am more familiar with values this way.


Ahhh, I changed it to 2.5 max and it still says 0.7GPM


----------



## hiarc

Even when you turn your pumps up it stays at 0.7? I would personally turn the pumps as low as possible and then ramp them up slowly to see where it hits 0.7; if it hits 0.7 on a low power value (something lower than 40% PWM, or like slot 2-3 on a vario) then something is definitely wrong.

Other than that, I just tested dropping the upper limit to 0 and it changed nothing (my flow meter still works just as it did before). I have zero idea of what else could be the problem unfortunately.


----------



## Jakusonfire

The upper and lower display limits just refer to the graphing of flow on the LCD of the device itself





It would pretty hard to get an incorrect flow rate with the basic flow meter. The only way I could see a major error is if only one of the magnets on the rotor was being sensed per rotation instead of both which would I guess make the sensed flow half of the actual flow.
What exactly is the loop made up of? unless you are using some very restrictive components twin pumps should have no problem pushing over 1 GPM


----------



## madcratebuilder

Quote:


> I have the Aquaero 6 XT with Aquacomputer's flow meter, LINK, I am cooling my GPU, CPU, and 3x 360 rads. I am pushing the water with 2x MCP655.


With 3 rads that may be your max flow. It's about 2.7 Lpm and that should cool your system. That's what I run my loop at unless I'm stress testing a component. With cpu-mb block-aq filter-aq flow-240 rad-gpu-gpu-360 rad my max flow is 3.8Lpm with 2 AQ d5's.


----------



## TATH

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *madcratebuilder*
> 
> With 3 rads that may be your max flow. It's about 2.7 Lpm and that should cool your system. That's what I run my loop at unless I'm stress testing a component. With cpu-mb block-aq filter-aq flow-240 rad-gpu-gpu-360 rad my max flow is 3.8Lpm with 2 AQ d5's.


Sounds good. I skipt the Aqua filter because of the verry thiny in and outlet "i thought it gives restriction". i did not try it .
Mayby i have to do a test one day to find out.

I use 2 480 on one loop and also 2 D5's from aqua the give about 4,8 to 5,5 lpm.


----------



## dseg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> The upper and lower display limits just refer to the graphing of flow on the LCD of the device itself
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It would pretty hard to get an incorrect flow rate with the basic flow meter. The only way I could see a major error is if only one of the magnets on the rotor was being sensed per rotation instead of both which would I guess make the sensed flow half of the actual flow.
> What exactly is the loop made up of? unless you are using some very restrictive components twin pumps should have no problem pushing over 1 GPM


I have 2x 360 Black Ice SR1 rads, 1x 480 Black Ice SR1 rad, Nvidia 780 Hydro Copper Classified, and a Raystorm CPU block.

This will give you an idea of how much flow I have. Please note I have 2x MPC655.
*Idk... does that look like 0.7 GPM? Both of my pumps are at 4500 RPMs.*


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## Nornam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Sorry for the off topic post but one of our own is in a bad way.
> Namron,a Specialtech regular and author of the Aquaero guide is seriously ill with lung cancer.
> 
> I would be greatly appreciative if you guys could just pop in to that thread and post messages of encouragement,he is dearly loved by us guys over there and we want him to know we as the watercooling community are rooting for him.
> 
> http://www.specialtechforums.co.uk/showthread.php?4865-Had-a-bit-of-a-shock-amp-some-not-such-good-news-today!!
> 
> Thanks guys.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> Damn i'm sorry to hear that. He was just in here a few days ago
> 
> His guide's have helped alot of people with aquaero's so i don't consider this off-topic


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> Really sorry to hear about your illness. Stay positive and fight for attention from the doctors.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mandrix*
> 
> Thanks for letting us know. I signed up over there to leave a message. I wish him great courage and luck beating that thing.


A REAL BIG THANKS to each & everyone of you for taking the time out not too just pop over to ST forums but for even having to signing up to give me all your great heart felt get wells & support you've all shown.. Thank you







....

I still have a lot more I want to do as regards to the Aquaero & my little guide things, Am partly through a guide now & trying to get it done as soon as I can before I move onto the next one. Hopefully I'll have the time & good fortune to do much more, but it's not always easy even when I was able to work to get some of the gear needed, but as I can't work at the moment we'll have to make do with the AC gear that I have acquired







... Just wanted to add this bit as just lately my reviews & guides have been a bit thin on the ground, you all know why now...









But!!!... With all the utterly fantastic support I've been shown from all over & with my will, I WILL beat this & again be up for getting more out a wee bit quicker hopefully in a few tough too come month's







.

Thanks Again to all.. Especially to Mr B, NEG..... A bloke I met in the flesh only a couple of times at a couple of iseries gigs here in the UK.. I knew as soon as I met him he was a Genuine & Give it too you straight sort of guy & my gut told me straight of he was going to be a good Mate..... Turns out my gut is too be trusted







.. (he'll hate me for saying it.. but there you go... That's how it is.. He's one of those from the top drawer... enough said







)

N. (Namron)


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dseg*
> 
> I have 2x 360 Black Ice SR1 rads, 1x 480 Black Ice SR1 rad, Nvidia 780 Hydro Copper Classified, and a Raystorm CPU block.
> 
> This will give you an idea of how much flow I have. Please note I have 2x MPC655.
> *Idk... does that look like 0.7 GPM? Both of my pumps are at 4500 RPMs.*
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


So I can see what looks like at least one pair of QDC's? To have an accurate idea of the total restriction of the loop we need to look at every component

The bitspower dual makes a little less than 2 standard tops but that would not be enough to account for it. The ouput looks like it feeds straight out? That can make it more likely for the pump to be a bit airlocked.

Its just super hard to give any real answers without more info sorry.


----------



## dseg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> So I can see what looks like at least one pair of QDC's? To have an accurate idea of the total restriction of the loop we need to look at every component
> 
> The bitspower dual makes a little less than 2 standard tops but that would not be enough to account for it. The ouput looks like it feeds straight out? That can make it more likely for the pump to be a bit airlocked.
> 
> Its just super hard to give any real answers without more info sorry.


I forgot about the 2x Koolance QDCs also.
I will be complete disassembling my computer in the coming weeks so hopefully if there is something wrong within the loop, it will get worked out.
My main concern was that somethign was wrong with the AQ6 or the flow meter as it does look like there is deffiniately more than 0.7 GPM.
Maybe I can find a cheap flow meter just to test the actual flow. These flow meters are $55, it's crazy


----------



## madcratebuilder

Hard to tell just looking at the turbulence in the res. It looks very similar to my res at 2.8Lpm. The quick connects do add restriction to the loop. How are your temps? If the loop is cooling to your satisfaction I wouldn't worry about the flow rate.


----------



## pennover

Just got my aquaero 6 xt. Is it normal that the display surface is totally scratched? I though it was foilage at first, but I don't see any


----------



## HeyBear

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pennover*
> 
> Just got my aquaero 6 xt. Is it normal that the display surface is totally scratched? I though it was foilage at first, but I don't see any


I believe that is a protective film over the display, you should be able to remove it.

Edit:
Yea, Shoggy mentioned it in the old Aquaero 6 thread - Can't link the post unfortunately as the thread is locked, here's the link.

Not sure how to remove it though as I have the pro version, not the xt. I'm sure someone will help if it's not obvious though.


----------



## pennover

Edit: Thanks & yes, it's a film. It sits extremly flush! My my, gonna dig myself a hole now


----------



## HeyBear

Hmm, not sure then, I'd wait until an xt owner chimes in just to be safe.


----------



## HeyBear

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pennover*
> 
> Edit: Thanks & yes, it's a film. It sits extremly flush! My my, gonna dig myself a hole now


Great news!







Happy tinkering now, loads of options and data to sift through.


----------



## SinatraFan

HEHE... I thought the same thing when I opened mine up. it is a film and once off... she looks purdy!


----------



## MeanBruce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pennover*
> 
> Edit: Thanks & yes, it's a film. It sits extremly flush! My my, gonna dig myself a hole now


hehehe, +1 for humility









Now throw a black faceplate on that Bad Boy.









http://s1177.photobucket.com/user/MeanBruce/media/IMG_4991_zps8d553cdc.jpg.html


----------



## Kimir

Does anyone know if it's possible and how (if it is) to change the page linked to the shortcut F1 to F4?


----------



## sinnedone

Hello all.

I'm thinking of using a flow meter, and wanted to know if there were others that are compatible with a 5 lt besides the aquacomputer ones. Hopefully some with a better price point.









Oh also all temp probes should be pretty much universal correct?


----------



## pennover

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MeanBruce*
> 
> hehehe, +1 for humility
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now throw a black faceplate on that Bad Boy.


Thanks







That black is damn sexy for sure, but I'm gonna spray paint mine white to match my case. Btw. the silver cover plate of my aquaero has some brown markings in the corners, like burn marks. Luckily, it doesn't matter since I'll paint it anyways, but I'm still a bit bummed.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sinnedone*
> 
> Hello all.
> 
> I'm thinking of using a flow meter, and wanted to know if there were others that are compatible with a 5 lt besides the aquacomputer ones. Hopefully some with a better price point.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Oh also all temp probes should be pretty much universal correct?


About the temp probes look for the ones with the same spec that Aquacomputer ones. It is mentioned here in this thread somewhere.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pennover*
> 
> Just got my aquaero 6 xt. Is it normal that the display surface is totally scratched? I though it was foilage at first, but I don't see any
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> [
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> IMG ALT=""]http://www.overclock.net/content/type/61/id/2032998/width/500/height/1000[/IMG]


I did exactly the same mate and also want to dig a hole for me...What can I say, I guess even the plastic film is high quality in Aquacomputer stuff.







Welcome to the club.


----------



## Kimir

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kimir*
> 
> Does anyone know if it's possible and how (if it is) to change the page linked to the shortcut F1 to F4?


Quoting myself for reference, if anyone like me didn't bother to read the manual at first.








Page 36 of the manual, chapter 16.4 explain how do.


----------



## MeanBruce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pennover*
> 
> Thanks
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That black is damn sexy for sure, but I'm gonna spray paint mine white to match my case. Btw. the silver cover plate of my aquaero has some brown markings in the corners, like burn marks. Luckily, it doesn't matter since I'll paint it anyways, but I'm still a bit bummed.


My stainless stock faceplate also had brown at the exposed edges, on closer inspection it was just oxidation (rust).

I was bummed also but had the black replacement ready to go.

White should look awesome, too bad AC doesn't offer a matte white faceplate and matte white Aquaero 6 heat sink.

If you need an extra stainless steel face plate to practice with PM me, and I'll ship you mine, I'll never use it.


----------



## pennover

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MeanBruce*
> 
> My stainless stock faceplate also had brown at the exposed edges, on closer inspection it was just oxidation (rust).
> 
> I was bummed also but had the black replacement ready to go.
> 
> White should look awesome, too bad AC doesn't offer a matte white faceplate and matte white Aquaero 6 heat sink.
> 
> If you need an extra stainless steel face plate to practice with PM me, and I'll ship you mine, I'll never use it.


Ah, good to know I'm not alone. Considering the price of the Aquaero, that's truly lame!
How generous of you to offer me your spare cover, thanks m8







I'll see how it turns out and may come back to your offer.


----------



## Shoggy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MeanBruce*
> 
> My stainless stock faceplate also had brown at the exposed edges, on closer inspection it was just oxidation (rust)


The brownish marks are mainly caused by the heat of the laser but it is not really burnt there. It is some kind of metallic dust that can be removed with phosphoric acid - sounds pretty dangerous but it can be also found in Coca Cola







So one can drop it on the affected area, wait about a minute and just rub it dry with a cloth.


----------



## pennover

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> The brownish marks are mainly caused by the heat of the laser but it is not really burnt there. It is some kind of metallic dust that can be removed with phosphoric acid - sounds pretty dangerous but it can be also found in Coca Cola
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So one can drop it on the affected area, wait about a minute and just rub it dry with a cloth.


Thanks, I'll give it a shot tomorrow and will report back!


----------



## madcratebuilder

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sinnedone*
> 
> Hello all.
> 
> I'm thinking of using a flow meter, and wanted to know if there were others that are compatible with a 5 lt besides the aquacomputer ones. Hopefully some with a better price point.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Oh also all temp probes should be pretty much universal correct?


For the best accuracy and compatability I would go with the Aquacomputer Flow sensor 'high flow' . It's about $45 USD's.

Temp sensors are 10Kohm as are most currently used by other manufacturers. There are some 50Kohm sensors around. The 10Kohm are suppose to report [email protected] Of the dozen I use they all are within 0.5C unless you add to the cable length. Koolance has a sensors with a longer cable, about 36 inches..


----------



## MeanBruce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kimir*
> 
> Quoting myself for reference, if anyone like me didn't bother to read the manual at first.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Page 36 of the manual, chapter 16.4 explain how do.


I cannot wait to delve into all the Aquaero 6 has to offer, next week I'll have my loop up and running, going to create so many pages and screens and graphs, AquaSuite is so interesting features seem infinite.

Using these thermal probes sending data to the Aquaero 6 measuring water IN, water OUT, radiator Delta T.









http://s1177.photobucket.com/user/MeanBruce/media/IMG_7054_zpsa25d283b.jpg.html

I'll post some screens like Kimir did above, pretty sure with a radiator you want a HIGH Delta T, not a low Delta T like CPU idle temp vs ambient.

correct me if I'm wrong, but that makes sense radiator Delta T higher the better...

The obverse of CPU Delta T and ambient air, lower the better...


----------



## Kimir

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *madcratebuilder*
> 
> For the best accuracy and compatability I would go with the Aquacomputer Flow sensor 'high flow' . It's about $45 USD's.
> 
> Temp sensors are 10Kohm as are most currently used by other manufacturers. There are some 50Kohm sensors around. The 10Kohm are suppose to report [email protected] Of the dozen I use they all are within 0.5C unless you add to the cable length. Koolance has a sensors with a longer cable, about 36 inches..


I got that flow sensor and it's really good price/value to me, flow sensor is important.

Yes, most sensor are rebrand made by an OEM anyway, I've few phobya one and they are indeed around 0.5°c from my Fluke laser thermometer.


----------



## madcratebuilder

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kimir*
> 
> I got that flow sensor and it's really good price/value to me, flow sensor is important.
> 
> Yes, most sensor are rebrand made by an OEM anyway, I've few phobya one and they are indeed around 0.5°c from my Fluke laser thermometer.


Fluke is everywhere. Just last week I found a Fluke laser therm kit at a garage sale for $25. I have a old Fluke 83 that has seen a good 25 years of service.

A flow meter and temp probes are indispensable for tuning your loop.


----------



## Kimir

Fluke is really good material, mine is new and freshly calibration certified.








I wouldn't do a loop without a flow meter and probably not without an aquaero either, this thing is good!

@MeanBruce, that was just an example showing that I renamed the F1-F4. I have other temperatures value in there and also graphs. No sure to understand you about high delta, it' all depend on what temperature you compare. I have air intake/exhaust, cold/hot water (from the 2 in-line sensors), cold water/air exhaust (hot) and hot water/air intake. All of this set in absolute difference temp.


----------



## Sykrui

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> The brownish marks are mainly caused by the heat of the laser but it is not really burnt there. It is some kind of metallic dust that can be removed with *phosphoric acid* - sounds pretty dangerous but it can be also found in *Coca Cola*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So one can drop it on the affected area, wait about a minute and just rub it dry with a cloth.


and that is why no one should drink Coca Cola hell the guys who drive the trucks for it use it to clean grease and oil so what do you think it is doing to your body


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sykrui*
> 
> and that is why no one should drink Coca Cola hell the guys who drive the trucks for it use it to clean grease and oil so what do you think it is doing to your body


You realise your stomach is full of acid; that's how digestion works? If you vomit on a truck, it will also clean the grease and oil









The primary reason not to drink cola is because it's full of sugar. The world has 2 billion overweight people who consume too much sugar, who will die early from heart disease or diabetes or such. There are vastly less number of people who have any kind of symptoms from phosphoric acid (e.g. kidney trouble or low bone density).


----------



## kpoeticg

Life's about moderation. Whether food, drinks, alcohol, drugs... Anything is bad for you if you go overboard with it. People that don't want sugar end up drinking 5x more sugar-free drinks than they would've regular soda. Just replacing sugar with a million other harmful chemicals that taste good.

It's better to have a few drinks with real sugar and just be normal about it than drinking "Sugar-Free" from the time you wake up til you go to sleep. Everything that has a positive generally has a negative. Aside from water, milk, and beer; every drink either has sugar or chemical fake sugar....


----------



## Sykrui

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> You realise your stomach is full of acid; that's how digestion works? If you vomit on a truck, it will also clean the grease and oil
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The primary reason not to drink cola is because it's full of sugar. The world has 2 billion overweight people who consume too much sugar, who will die early from heart disease or diabetes or such. There are vastly less number of people who have any kind of symptoms from phosphoric acid (e.g. kidney trouble or low bone density).


oh i know and the acid level are not the same in even one and we don't have the acid in our stomachs as other animals . yes sugar is bad for you so is fat be their are may types of each some good some bad but yes the sugar in soft drink is not good but one big thing about Coca Cola is it leaches calcium from bones and can make them weaker over time if you drink to much of it. but yes you are also right
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> Life's about moderation. Whether food, drinks, alcohol, drugs... Anything is bad for you if you go overboard with it. People that don't want sugar end up drinking 5x more sugar-free drinks than they would've regular soda. Just replacing sugar with a million other harmful chemicals that taste good.
> 
> It's better to have a few drinks with real sugar and just be normal about it than drinking "Sugar-Free" from the time you wake up til you go to sleep. Everything that has a positive generally has a negative. Aside from water, milk, and beer; every drink either has sugar or chemical fake sugar....


Life's about moderation. so true so eat what ever you want just not too much

This ad brake was brought to you by life is about moderation now back to the Aquaero









is any one useing noiseblocker nb-eloop b12-ps or the b12-p and can tell me how many have they got running off one channel or if they are haveing problems with pwm on them

Thanks


----------



## gdubc

Off topic (or maybe not), I have family that does blood work for the Red Cross and apparently the bubbly is also very bad for your blood. The carbonation, that is.


----------



## Kimir

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sykrui*
> 
> is any one useing noiseblocker nb-eloop b12-ps or the b12-p and can tell me how many have they got running off one channel or if they are haveing problems with pwm on them
> 
> Thanks


I am using both eLoop B12-P and PS controlled via PWM on the Aquaero, but no powered by it since I'm using this cable splitter, it's powered by molex.
With 4 fan per channel no problem at all this way.


----------



## Sykrui

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kimir*
> 
> I am using both eLoop B12-P and PS controlled via PWM on the Aquaero, but no powered by it since I'm using this cable splitter, it's powered by molex.
> With 4 fan per channel no problem at all this way.


Cool thanks


----------



## Newtocooling

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kimir*
> 
> Fluke is really good material, mine is new and freshly calibration certified.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I wouldn't do a loop without a flow meter and probably not without an aquaero either, this thing is good!
> 
> @MeanBruce, that was just an example showing that I renamed the F1-F4. I have other temperatures value in there and also graphs. No sure to understand you about high delta, it' all depend on what temperature you compare. I have air intake/exhaust, cold/hot water (from the 2 in-line sensors), cold water/air exhaust (hot) and hot water/air intake. All of this set in absolute difference temp.


Did I make a mistake by going with two of these flow sensors for my loops, if I have the Aquaero 6XT?

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/16902/ex-tub-1370/Bitspower_G14_Thread_Flow_Sensor_-_Black_Sparkle_BP-FS-CLBKBK.html?tl=c101s457b145&id=k6R2PMnY&mv_pc=15727


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Newtocooling*
> 
> Did I make a mistake by going with two of these flow sensors for my loops, if I have the Aquaero 6XT?
> 
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/16902/ex-tub-1370/Bitspower_G14_Thread_Flow_Sensor_-_Black_Sparkle_BP-FS-CLBKBK.html?tl=c101s457b145&id=k6R2PMnY&mv_pc=15727


They are prone to leaking and only one can be used with the Aquaero without giving up a fan header for the other flow sensor. For $15 more you can get a machined acetal aquacomputer model that works with the standard calibration settings. Any other brand sensor will have to be calibrated and there is no guarantee it will work properly. Someone in the Aquacomputer forum was trying to calibrate one of the Bitspower sensors and the Aquaero could not be adjusted to low enough RPM's for the flow sensor.
Just use the right sensors.


----------



## Kimir

I don't see any problem using 2 flow sensor, if you think you have restrictive block and want to see the flow after them, but indeed you lose a fan header to use as flow sensor.
Other than that, one is enough to me.
Also I've seen some discussion about flow here or somewhere else, I've used my D5 at full speed to bleed then reduced to speed 4 and now I'm running at lower than 3 (3=3300 rpm, 2= 2550 and I'm at around 2800), it way more silent and haven't seen higher temperature and I'm as low as 1.3l/m.


----------



## seross69

If you have a power adjust these have a flow header on them and the Aquacomputer usb D5 also does so not have to lose anything depending on your equipment..


----------



## Shoggy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kimir*
> 
> I don't see any problem using 2 flow sensor, if you think you have restrictive block and want to see the flow after them


That will not work at all. If you want to get this value you will have to measure the loop with and without the block. The flow rate after the block will be the same flow rate that enters the block again.

With a sensor like the mps pressure 40 you could measure the pressure drop directly within the loop but that's it.


----------



## Kimir

Okey, thanks for letting me know.


----------



## Newtocooling

so I shouldn't use the bits power flow meters right?


----------



## Kimir

It can work, I choose to go with the the Aquacomputer one since I know I would plug in the Aquaero. I've no experience with Bitspower so I can't tell you.


----------



## kpoeticg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> That will not work at all. If you want to get this value you will have to measure the loop with and without the block. The flow rate after the block will be the same flow rate that enters the block again.
> 
> With a sensor like the mps pressure 40 you could measure the pressure drop directly within the loop but that's it.


Wow that makes alot of sense. I actually had plans on grabbing a 2nd AC Flowmeter with Aquabus this time so i could have one leaving my pump and one on the way back into my pump to monitor the restriction in my loop. It all made perfect sense....

I've been planning this for a cpl months probly and never thought about that.







LOL

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Newtocooling*
> 
> so I shouldn't use the bits power flow meters right?


I'm pretty sure they'll work if you're willing to sacrifice a fan header. Don't buy it just off me saying that tho cuz i'm not positive. I think they're calibrated to be read from fan headers tho


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Newtocooling*
> 
> so I shouldn't use the bits power flow meters right?


http://forum.aquacomputer.de/weitere-foren/english-forum/p1406186-setting-the-user-define-flow-rate-calibration-lower-than-100-impulses-per-litre/?highlight=bitspower+flow+meter#post1406186

They aren't designed to be used with the Aquaero. This sensor counts RPMs which is fine, but the Aquacomputer flow sensors don't work like that, they pulse twice for every rotation of the internal paddle which means the Aquaero is set up to read very high pulses per litre whereas the the BP model will only provide about half the pulses per litre.
Just use the proper sensors and save yourself a lot of hassle. For two loops I would use at least one of the standalone MPS meters so you don't have to give up a fan header.


----------



## madcratebuilder

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Newtocooling*
> 
> so I shouldn't use the bits power flow meters right?


Obtaining a reading from that flow meter is not technically difficult, what is difficult is determining the accuracy of the reading. You would need to do a timed flow and measure the volume, difficult in a closed loop system. Bite the bullet and spend $45 for the AQ meter, then you are assured of accuracy.


----------



## Newtocooling

Ok so if I return my Bitspower sensors, which of these two will be easier to setup and better for my loop?

http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_239_1089&products_id=36086

http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_239_1089&products_id=32963

Thanks for all the help and great advice, these forums have been an awesome help in moving and upgrading my build.


----------



## kpoeticg

The first one you linked i don't personally know too many people who use those models. I think the benefit of that type is it has no moving parts, so no restriction and no noise. Also it connects via aquabus or usb if you want. The downside is that it will only measure flow within a specific range .

mps flow 100: Measuring range approx. 20 - 100 liters per hour
mps flow 200: Measuring range approx. 40 - 200 liters per hour
mps flow 400: Measuring range approx. 80 - 400 liters per hour

The 2nd one you linked is the one i actually use. That has 2 models too, a USB/Aquabus version that's more expensive, and the one you linked that only has the 3Pin connector for the "Flow" header.

I think i read that the internals of these are Digimesa flowmeters which are supposed to be great from the little i've read about it on forums. They do have a spinning rotor that measures the flow tho. I've heard people complain about it being noisy, but i can't hear mine at all. I have to touch it to feel the rotor spinning.

I highly recommend the "High Flow" model. If you only ever need one of em, just get the 2nd one you linked. If you wanna use more than one, you should get that one plus a USB/Aquabus version of that model so you can connect the 2nd one via Aquabus.

@Shoggy if i got anything wrong here, please correct me =)


----------



## Newtocooling

Ok I ordered this one: http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_239_1089&products_id=32963

Do I need the special cable they mention, or is a standard 3pin female to female cable possible to connect this to my 6XT?


----------



## Kimir

Yes you need either an entire cable or just the connector+pin to make a cable as the connector at the flow meter is a bigger one.


----------



## ozzy1925

i found this [email protected] web site:
http://aquacomputer.de/newsreader/items/wichtiger-hinweis-fuer-produkte-mit-mps-platine.html


----------



## kpoeticg

Yeah, truly sorry for recommending you to buy it and forgetting to mention that you need to grab a cable for it

The cables are cheap. If you ordered from PPC, you should be able to still add the cable to your order. Also i've bought the connectors and pins from Digikey for the Flowmeter, so if you'd rather make your own cable just let me know and i can give you the part numbers. It's got the same normal pinout as a 3Pin fan cable, just the connectors different. I'd just add the cable to your order tho. Placing an order from digikey for one connector and a few pins isn't really worth the shipping

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ozzy1925*
> 
> i found this [email protected] web site:
> http://aquacomputer.de/newsreader/items/wichtiger-hinweis-fuer-produkte-mit-mps-platine.html
> 
> Interesting. It looks like a really easy fix tho. Seems like the adapter they're shipping people is just the normal cables with the pinouts reversed for one end


----------



## Newtocooling

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> Yeah, truly sorry for recommending you to buy it and forgetting to mention that you need to grab a cable for it
> 
> The cables are cheap. If you ordered from PPC, you should be able to still add the cable to your order. Also i've bought the connectors and pins from Digikey for the Flowmeter, so if you'd rather make your own cable just let me know and i can give you the part numbers. It's got the same normal pinout as a 3Pin fan cable, just the connectors different. I'd just add the cable to your order tho. Placing an order from digikey for one connector and a few pins isn't really worth the shipping


No problem just thanks for giving me your advice on the right one to get. I'll just call PPC tomorrow and see if they can throw it in. Do you do custom cables for yourself? I just started to think about this for myself. I'm looking at Lutro for the tools.


----------



## kpoeticg

Yeah i make alot of my own cables nowadays. It makes things much easier when you can wire stuff any way you please. PPC has an option on their site for adding to an order you just placed. You don't need to call em. I think the option is there when you place the order, before you checkout. One of the fields is for "adding this order to an existing order".

If it's not there, the options in your accounts "Order History". I think it's when you checkout tho.

I bought most or maybe even all my sleeving/crimping stuff from Lutro. His webshop is another place i highly recommend. He has quality stuff.

I figured it was only fair since i learned everything i know about sleeving for free from his youtube vids


----------



## Costas

If you end up building your own cable - just ensure that you make note of the markings/pinout on the flow sensor versus the pinout on the Aquaero header.

As 'kpoeticg' has noted the centre pin on the actual flow sensor is not positive as is on a standard 3 pin fan cable.

I just built my own cable the other day and was careful to notice this difference.


----------



## kpoeticg

Wow you're right. I actually thought it was standard pinout for some reason. I'm looking at the cable right now.

Pin 1 on fan connector to pin 2 on flowmeter

Pin 2 on fan connector to pin 3 on flowmeter

Pin 3 on fan connector to pin 1 on flowmeter

It's been a while since i made mine. I thought it was a 1:1 pinout


----------



## Newtocooling

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> Yeah i make alot of my own cables nowadays. It makes things much easier when you can wire stuff any way you please. PPC has an option on their site for adding to an order you just placed. You don't need to call em. I think the option is there when you place the order, before you checkout. One of the fields is for "adding this order to an existing order".
> 
> If it's not there, the options in your accounts "Order History". I think it's when you checkout tho.
> 
> I bought most or maybe even all my sleeving/crimping stuff from Lutro. His webshop is another place i highly recommend. He has quality stuff.
> 
> I figured it was only fair since i learned everything i know about sleeving for free from his youtube vids


I was addicted to Singularity Computers when I first decided to build a water cooled computer, now that I broke my first 3 pin rpm cable coming off my D5 pump putting on the optional cover, I can see I'm about to get addicted to watching Lutro videos to learn how to custom wire.


----------



## kpoeticg

Yeah Lutro's tutorial's are extremely helpful to people that wanna learn how to crimp and sleeve. It's best to grab his crimper and the wirestrippers, along with some pins, wire, and sleeving before you watch the vids. It was real easy for me to learn by trying it for myself as i was watching his tutorials


----------



## Newtocooling

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> Yeah Lutro's tutorial's are extremely helpful to people that wanna learn how to crimp and sleeve. It's best to grab his crimper and the wirestrippers, along with some pins, wire, and sleeving before you watch the vids. It was real easy for me to learn by trying it for myself as i was watching his tutorials


I grabbed all of those things except for wire I didn't know what gauge to get? I would love to learn enough to someday wire my own power supply with the exact lenghs and pin outs I need. My first job is just a simple repair of one 3 pin RPM pump cable. I'll start small and work my way up.


----------



## kpoeticg

If you're ordering from Lutro's shop, you should grab the 22AWG for fans, led's, etc. Grab 18AWG for your power connectors (EPS/VGA/Molex).

Most fans and things that come with fan connectors come with 22-26AWG. Most PSU's come with 16 or 18AWG or a mix of both. Most people use 18AWG for sleeving. I like 16AWG for heatshrinkless sleeving personally tho.

Pretty much any wire that you're trying to replace, if it's a thin wire i'd use 22AWG, if it's thicker i'd use 18 or 16. 18 or 16 is just a personal preference, electrically 18AWG can handle anything in your pc


----------



## Costas

I'm currently in the process of a new build and as a first time Aquaero user I have the following question.

Is anybody utilising the full complement of 8 Temp sensor inputs for the Aquaero devices?

I'm struggling to think of how I could utilise all 8 inputs...









I have the obvious ones covered such as:
2x - for radiator In and Out differential temp measurement
1x - ambient case air intake measurement
1x - general internal air case temp measurement
1x - Although these will be probably driven at quite low PWM rates I also decided to stick a thermistor in between my heatsink mounted DDC pump(s) [Swiftech MCP35X2]

Obviously I do not need to utilise all 8 inputs, however........are there any other obvious [useful] choices for sticking a thermistor on that I may have missed?


----------



## RDKing2

I have an ambient and interior case temp, then measure the water in 4 different places in the loop. Of the 4 water temp sensors there is barely over 1C-1.5C temp difference in the entire loop at any time. I have 2- 280 (45mm,80mm) rads and one 560 rad (80mm), the extreme would be comparing the temp right after my GPU's and after my 560 rad. Only actually use the ambient and one of the water sensors to create a virtual delta temp sensor for reference with a custom curve for fan speeds. More water sensors are really not needed but can be used for reference if you like. Maybe a lower and upper case temp for the heck of it. Doubt there will be much difference with good airflow.


----------



## kpoeticg

It really depends on how much info you need. I have 6 Phobya water temp sensors. I'm only using 2 right now cuz my motherboards running on a table during my neverending build lol. But i'm gonna have 4 rads in my build. Since a cpl runs will be going from rad => rad i figure 6 sensors should be able to tell me the in/out delta of each rad, and then with my flowmeter included, the aquaero tells me how much heat/watts each rad is dissipating.

I'm using 2 air sensors right now too. One just dangling from a shelf, and one jammed inside of one of my ram heatsinks til i can reattach my ram and mobo waterblocks this week


----------



## madcratebuilder

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Costas*
> 
> I'm currently in the process of a new build and as a first time Aquaero user I have the following question.
> 
> Is anybody utilising the full complement of 8 Temp sensor inputs for the Aquaero devices?
> 
> I'm struggling to think of how I could utilise all 8 inputs...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have the obvious ones covered such as:
> 2x - for radiator In and Out differential temp measurement
> 1x - ambient case air intake measurement
> 1x - general internal air case temp measurement
> 1x - Although these will be probably driven at quite low PWM rates I also decided to stick a thermistor in between my heatsink mounted DDC pump(s) [Swiftech MCP35X2]
> 
> Obviously I do not need to utilise all 8 inputs, however........are there any other obvious [useful] choices for sticking a thermistor on that I may have missed?


I use:
Rad coolant in and out X2
Rad fan air in and out X2
Case air in and out

8 sensors on the AQ6, 2 additional on the dual AQ D5 pumps, this gives me 10 temps under "Temperature Sensors"
3 additional sensors thru the motherboard, 2 on the dimm's and 1 on the vrm's, these are listed under "Software Temperature Sensors"

I monitor 22 different sensors, hard and software, no kill like overkill. At full load I can see as much as 6C difference in temps in different locations in the loop. Even with Crossfired 280X's 75% of the loop heat is from the cpu and motherboard. I was surprised to see the 2 EK full cover gpu blocks with passive backplates would actually cool the loop when the gpu's are at idle.


----------



## riesscar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> What pump do you have? Neither the MCP-355 (ddc pump) or if you mistype the MCP-655B are PWM models.


Hey Gabrielzm,

The pump about which I wrote is the 'Swiftech MCP655-PWM-DRIVE 12v Water Pump Module - PWM'. Here is the link to the product page: http://www.frozencpu.com/products/17549/ex-pmp-214/Swiftech_MCP655-PWM-DRIVE_12v_Water_Pump_Module_-_PWM_Enabled_Single_Version.html.

So it seems I did mistype... nevermind the 'B' at the end.

-Carson


----------



## Costas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *madcratebuilder*
> 
> I monitor 22 different sensors, hard and software,


Yeh - Here I was thinking of trying to go down the road of not get carried away with sensors...









Anyway - thanks for the info guys - Just about finished all my pre-wiring for my 6XT.


----------



## Newtocooling

I'm getting ready to move my build into a caselabs this week and decided to test my fans on MMT splitter PCB's and read the post from back in april about cutting the tach on all but the first fan on the splitter. I went ahead and tried to scratch out the other two fan headers.



Now the aquaero reads the RPM correctly, but the other two fans are spinning at a very low RPM? Did I do something wrong?Here is a pic of my fan connections.


----------



## gdubc

It kinda looks like the other traces may have gotten scratched a little?


----------



## Newtocooling

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gdubc*
> 
> It kinda looks like the other traces may have gotten scratched a little?


Well I tried to scratch all three on two more pcb I had and scratching pin 1, 2, and 3 had no change on the other ones fans at full speed but the RPM was still not reading on Aquaero. The RPM were going from 1350 to 800 to 0, no matter what lane I scratched out. I'm really confused now.



When I look at my Noiseblocker cable I have a red, white and black wire, black is labled 1, white is labled 2510, and red is labled TKG. Does anyone using the Noiseblockers PL-2 using a MMT splitter having any luck with their Aquaero reading an accurate RPM?


----------



## Costas

Ok - The Red wires are the positive supply rail for each fan and the Black is the negative rail for each fan. You do not want any cuts in the MMT splitter PCB for these two rails ie the pcb traces which common the black and red leads should not have any cuts in them..

The WHITE wire is the RPM feedback wire. Each fan outputs a square wave signal on their white wire which feeds back to your controller.

You only want ONE fan's white wire to be connected via the MMT splitter to the Aquaero's lead which is what looks like you have done in your attached pic. Just ensure that all your fan leads are plugged in around the right way [hard to go wrong here] and double check that the white wires are the ones being connected to the track you have cut and not the opposing black wire track...

Ensure that you have cut the correct track and not the track connecting up the black wires - easy enough to do as flipping the pcb over means that the two outer connections are effectively reversed.

I'm currently utilising a number of MMT 5 way splitters with NB fans and they work fine when modded with a single cut on the PCB.


----------



## Costas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Newtocooling*
> 
> Does anyone using the Noiseblockers PL-2 using a MMT splitter having any luck with their Aquaero reading an accurate RPM?


Oh - and one other thing....

I'm using a whole stack of NB B12-3 fans so I'm not sure that the PL-2's suffer from the same issue but I noticed the other day with my new build that when I turn the fan drive voltage down, the RPM readings start to go haywire at somewhere around 6v - 5v supply... and when reducing the voltage further the fans stop reporting any RPM figure completely.

The fans rotate well all the way down to less than 4v but they fail to report back any RPM signal at low drive voltages.

It is a characteristic of the fan itself and not a bug in the Aquaero unit as I had to design a work around for this issue.

It will be interesting to see if you have the same problem with the PL-2's.


----------



## Newtocooling

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Costas*
> 
> Ok - The Red wires are the positive supply rail for each fan and the Black is the negative rail for each fan. You do not want any cuts in the MMT splitter PCB for these two rails ie the pcb traces which common the black and red leads should not have any cuts in them..
> 
> The WHITE wire is the RPM feedback wire. Each fan outputs a square wave signal on their white wire which feeds back to your controller.
> 
> You only want ONE fan's white wire to be connected via the MMT splitter to the Aquaero's lead which is what looks like you have done in your attached pic. Just ensure that all your fan leads are plugged in around the right way [hard to go wrong here] and double check that the white wires are the ones being connected to the track you have cut and not the opposing black wire track...
> 
> Ensure that you have cut the correct track and not the track connecting up the black wires - easy enough to do as flipping the pcb over means that the two outer connections are effectively reversed.
> 
> I'm currently utilising a number of MMT 5 way splitters with NB fans and they work fine when modded with a single cut on the PCB.


I cannot thank you enough!!!!!! It worked I cut the white line all fans running at full speed and accurate RPM. Now I'll be able to set up my curves for both loops when I'm fully up and running.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Costas*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Newtocooling*
> 
> Does anyone using the Noiseblockers PL-2 using a MMT splitter having any luck with their Aquaero reading an accurate RPM?
> 
> 
> 
> Oh - and one other thing....
> 
> I'm using a whole stack of NB B12-3 fans so I'm not sure that the PL-2's suffer from the same issue but I noticed the other day with my new build that when I turn the fan drive voltage down, the RPM readings start to go haywire at somewhere around 6v - 5v supply... and when reducing the voltage further the fans stop reporting any RPM figure completely.
> 
> The fans rotate well all the way down to less than 4v but they fail to report back any RPM signal at low drive voltages.
> 
> It is a characteristic of the fan itself and not a bug in the Aquaero unit as I had to design a work around for this issue.
> 
> It will be interesting to see if you have the same problem with the PL-2's.
Click to expand...

Generally speaking, I've not had any displays that seemed to be great once rpm gets much below 600.

I don't recall any one type of fan being better or worse on the same controller, but I wasn't typically watching for that either, so small variations would not have been noticed.

Some controllers are better than others down to ~500 or so, but with only 2 pulses per revolution from the fan itself, (20 per second at 600rpm) if you were using 1/2 second sampling times, you'd surely get 6 pulses on some samples and 4 on others, leading to very erratic readings.

Longer sampling times would help, but that would cause slower display updates, which would look like lag to the user and not be particularly acceptable.

Other controllers with their output referenced to the +12V PSU rail, typically do very poorly at reading low rpm's, but that's for different reasons entirely.

Darlene


----------



## Kimir

Hmm, I've no reading issue with my pwm eLoop, goes down to 400 or so like supposed to.


----------



## Captaincaveman

Hi!

I have an Aquaero 6 XT and I want to connect about 30 fans to it. They are Swiftech Helix fans (not PWM). How do I do that? Is there any fan hub that will allow me to connect them without messing with tons of splitter cables?

Thanks!


----------



## SinatraFan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Captaincaveman*
> 
> Hi!
> 
> I have an Aquaero 6 XT and I want to connect about 30 fans to it. They are Swiftech Helix fans (not PWM). How do I do that? Is there any fan hub that will allow me to connect them without messing with tons of splitter cables?
> 
> Thanks!


not that I know... I have 28 cougars and I made harnesses that cleaned things up.


----------



## TATH

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SinatraFan*
> 
> not that I know... I have 28 cougars and I made harnesses that cleaned things up.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


nice bending skills:thumb:


----------



## Captaincaveman

will http://www.tweaktown.com/reviews/5503/nzxt-grid-10-port-fan-hub-review/index.html work?


----------



## jakstak

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Captaincaveman*
> 
> Hi!
> 
> I have an Aquaero 6 XT and I want to connect about 30 fans to it. They are Swiftech Helix fans (not PWM). How do I do that? Is there any fan hub that will allow me to connect them without messing with tons of splitter cables?
> 
> Thanks!


Hi,








The way i did it was similar to how i saw it on the AQ6XT demo video,
I bought some veroboard (also called protoboard etc) and fan headers
Then you just solder the headers in rows and cut the rpm wire on all but one header,
The one i made has 16 headers and it cost around 10 pounds uk to make,
Have a go its way easyer than you would think







if you can solder it is very simple,
If you cant solder id go for the fan hub or similar from nxzt,
JS


----------



## Costas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Some controllers are better than others down to ~500 or so, but with only 2 pulses per revolution from the fan itself, (20 per second at 600rpm) if you were using 1/2 second sampling times, you'd surely get 6 pulses on some samples and 4 on others, leading to very erratic readings.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kimir*
> 
> Hmm, I've no reading issue with my pwm eLoop, goes down to 400 or so like supposed to.


It is certainly not a controller issue when utilising the NB B12-3 fans as I have completed a little more in-depth technical testing the other day which confirms the problem lies with the fans themselves. I suspect that from some other users feedback that the issue is more than likely limited to the B12-3 variant only?

If you are interested I posted my findings [and a solution to the problem] on an Aussie 'DownUnder forum over here - I use the UN of Flat-6 on that forum: http://forums.overclockers.com.au/showthread.php?t=1130994


----------



## fast_fate

Quick question about Aquaero 5 if I may,

about the maximum output power for each fan channel is (1.65 A at 12 V)
is that operating amps
OR
amps measured at start -up, where the amps are quite a bit higher before dropping off.

I currently have an Aquaero power amp on the fan channel in question,
BUT I'm wondering if I can eliminate them from the system.

The fan channel's operating amps is about 1.2 amps.
But the start up amps I see gets up to about 1.9 amps - which is at around 10v - the power amp's reduce the voltage available.

Guess I'm looking to go the other way than most here - increase the max fan voltage (only when wanted / required though) rather than reduce it.
If I can eliminate the power amp from that fan channel I can get back my 12v when required.

But the start up amperage has been my concern.


----------



## Shoggy

1.65A is the operating power. The aquaero allows higher peaks to make sure that a pump spins up. These peaks are monitored by the aquaero. A slightly _overload_ will be tolerated for a longer time and a higher _overload_ only for a shorter time.

Make sure you are using the passive heatsink for your aquaero.


----------



## fast_fate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> 1.65A is the operating power. The aquaero allows higher peaks to make sure that a pump spins up. These peaks are monitored by the aquaero. A slightly _overload_ will be tolerated for a longer time and a higher _overload_ only for a shorter time.
> 
> Make sure you are using the passive heatsink for your aquaero.


Excellent








Thanks Mate








I have the water block, so heat dissipation shouldn't be an issue.

P.S.
The replacement parts you organized for me arrived, so big Thanks Shoggy for the awesome Customer Service









EDIT : just checked if I could get the 12 x B12-3 e-Loops on my 2 roof rads to run off one 1.65 amp channel.
WhooHoo - 1.52 amps once spun up


----------



## TheGovernment

So I just in the midst of buying the 6XT and want to get a temp sensor. Does the bitspower ones work like this one? I'm also getting a manual flow sensor as just like to have one.

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/10373/ex-tub-620/Bitspower_G_14_Temperature_Sensor_Stop_Fitting_-_Matte_Black_BP-MBWP-CT.html?tl=g30c229s579&id=xC8jiKoa&mv_pc=2092


----------



## VSG

Yes, it does.


----------



## OIOKronikler

I would like to know if there is a way to see flow rates of my pumps. I have two d5's aquabus pumps connected to my XT6 controller via 3 wire aquabus cable. If say I connect to it with a 4 wire cable will that change anything. Also if the pump connected via usb, gives more control over pump but does it have a flow rate type of feature. My question, can aquasuite software see my flow rates with out actual flow meters. Thanks.


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Coronati Oculis*
> 
> I would like to know if there is a way to see flow rates of my pumps. I have two d5's aquabus pumps connected to my XT6 controller via 3 wire aquabus cable. If say I connect to it with a 4 wire cable will that change anything. Also if the pump connected via usb, gives more control over pump but does it have a flow rate type of feature. My question, can aquasuite software see my flow rates with out actual flow meters. Thanks.


need to buy a flow meter like this http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&manufacturers_id=218&products_id=32963


----------



## Costas

Fan amplifier temperatures on 6XT.

I note that all 4 fan amplifier temperature measurements on my 6XT read approx 6 degrees C lower than what my actual ambient room temperature is.

Aquasuite allows the user to enter a temperature offset for each fan amplifier but the offset does not seem to work for the fan amplifier readings [works OK on the 8 user temp sensors].

Is this a quirk of the Aquasuite software or are the fan amp temps fixed in that no user offset can be applied even though Aquasuite appears to allow the user to enter an offset?

Thanks

Costas


----------



## madcratebuilder

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Costas*
> 
> Fan amplifier temperatures on 6XT.
> 
> I note that all 4 fan amplifier temperature measurements on my 6XT read approx 6 degrees C lower than what my actual ambient room temperature is.
> 
> Aquasuite allows the user to enter a temperature offset for each fan amplifier but the offset does not seem to work for the fan amplifier readings [works OK on the 8 user temp sensors].
> 
> Is this a quirk of the Aquasuite software or are the fan amp temps fixed in that no user offset can be applied even though Aquasuite appears to allow the user to enter an offset?
> 
> Thanks
> 
> Costas


On my 6 Pro the fan controllers report very close to room ambient (+1-2C), fan 1&2 (10 fans) and fan 3&4 (6 fans) seem to share thermistors, The 6 Pro cpu runs about 10C over ambient. The offsets do not work for the fans or cpu temps.
Quote:


> My question, can aquasuite software see my flow rates with out actual flow meters


You need a mps or usb flow meter to see flow rates. The 53068 high flow is silent and accurate.


----------



## Roikyou

Got a question for anyone. When my computer boots, the Aquasuite service never starts. So if I want to see software temps, I always have to open the software and start the service. Any way to start this service at boot? Thanks


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Costas*
> 
> Fan amplifier temperatures on 6XT.
> 
> I note that all 4 fan amplifier temperature measurements on my 6XT read approx 6 degrees C lower than what my actual ambient room temperature is.
> 
> Aquasuite allows the user to enter a temperature offset for each fan amplifier but the offset does not seem to work for the fan amplifier readings [works OK on the 8 user temp sensors].
> 
> Is this a quirk of the Aquasuite software or are the fan amp temps fixed in that no user offset can be applied even though Aquasuite appears to allow the user to enter an offset?
> 
> Thanks
> 
> Costas


Mine are dead on spot (around 24.35 C) on the ambient temp (the 4 amplifier temps) while the aquaero cpu is 32 C. Btw I don't think I fully understand what those temps are (the fan amplifier temps I mean).
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Roikyou*
> 
> Got a question for anyone. When my computer boots, the Aquasuite service never starts. So if I want to see software temps, I always have to open the software and start the service. Any way to start this service at boot? Thanks


Yep, go to the options of aquasuite and click start aquasuite with windows


----------



## Roikyou

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Yep, go to the options of aquasuite and click start aquasuite with windows


Checked and never starts with windows. Always have to open Aquasuite and start service.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Roikyou*
> 
> Checked and never starts with windows. Always have to open Aquasuite and start service.










I would try to uninstall the software then and make sure you download the latest version of it and install again. It should work. You can always also edit the windows start up programs list to include the software.


----------



## lagisforeplay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Roikyou*
> 
> Checked and never starts with windows. Always have to open Aquasuite and start service.


Have you added the program/checked it in msconfig->start up ?


----------



## Roikyou

Dropped it in the start up folder, even tried to set up an event for it, still no luck. I can try to uninstall and reinstall, that's pretty straight forward. (windows 8.1 btw)


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Roikyou*
> 
> Dropped it in the start up folder, even tried to set up an event for it, still no luck. I can try to uninstall and reinstall, that's pretty straight forward. (windows 8.1 btw)


Ah..ok. I am on win 7... see if msconfig still works and try to add manually to the boot sequence of win. Hope the uninstall thing solve.


----------



## TATH

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Roikyou*
> 
> Dropped it in the start up folder, even tried to set up an event for it, still no luck. I can try to uninstall and reinstall, that's pretty straight forward. (windows 8.1 btw)


I use 8.1 also and it start up automatic.

Take a look at the tab setting in the bottom of aquasuite "start with admin rights".
Also mark "startup when windows startup ".

I hope this solve you problem:thumb:


----------



## Costas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Btw I don't think I fully understand what those temps are (the fan amplifier temps I mean).


I suspect that the driver IC's which supply the power to the fans have an inbuilt temperature measuring facility - No real different to the cpu I suspect.

On the 6XT - temp measurement of the driver IC's is probably a tad redundant feature anyway as my amplifier temps don't vary much even while driving 17 fans off two channels. So it is not a big issue that the temps cannot be offset in any way.


----------



## Roikyou

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TATH*
> 
> I use 8.1 also and it start up automatic.
> 
> Take a look at the tab setting in the bottom of aquasuite "start with admin rights".
> Also mark "startup when windows startup ".
> 
> I hope this solve you problem:thumb:


Looks like it's hwinfo actually not starting. I've got start at boot checked on that one but it still likes to give me grief.


----------



## overclockFrance

I own an Aquaero 5 LT watercooled.

On the first fan plug, 4 x 250mm Sharkoon fans are plugged (0.3 A, 12 V each fan). On the second plug, same configuration.
On the 3rd plug, only 1 x 220mm fan and on the 4th, 2 x 80 mm Antec fans.

On the 1st and 2nd plug, the Sharkoon fans speed does not exceed 450 rpm at 12 V whereas they should rotate at around 800 rpm.

I don't understand that since the maximum output per channel is 1.65 A and here, I only have 1.2 A. And the total current output does not exceed 5 A. The fan amplifiers temperatures do not go higher than 75°C.


----------



## Roikyou

Found that Aida 64, gpu would not show up, hwinfo never would start properly at windows boot up and 6.x beta of open hardware monitor wouldn't show up at all. I went with the 5.x version of open hardware monitor, works on boot up with no issues.


----------



## mandrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Roikyou*
> 
> Found that Aida 64, gpu would not show up, hwinfo never would start properly at windows boot up and 6.x beta of open hardware monitor wouldn't show up at all. I went with the 5.x version of open hardware monitor, works on boot up with no issues.


For some of the gpu sensors to show up in AIDA, especially in a crossfire setup, I've had to use Afterburner and have it disable UPLS before all the sensors would show.
But if you haven't been able to get any gpu sensors to show up then I don't know what's up with that.


----------



## Roikyou

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mandrix*
> 
> For some of the gpu sensors to show up in AIDA, especially in a crossfire setup, I've had to use Afterburner and have it disable UPLS before all the sensors would show.
> But if you haven't been able to get any gpu sensors to show up then I don't know what's up with that.


Only Aida 64 would the gpu not show up, hwinfo 64 would show up but never start at boot, always have to open the application and 6.x of the open hardware wouldn't even show up under list of sensors when setting up software sensors but the 5.x open hardware would show both.

Going to double check and make sure I have the most recent version of Aquasuite and then try the open hardware 6.x again, else just go back to 5.x and call it good as it's working.


----------



## skupples

Aida requires tweaking some settings in the preferences to get everything to show upm


----------



## Kimir

To use AIDA in the Aquasuite, you have to enable shared memory in the external application tab of the preferences in Aida.
I personally use Open hardware monitor for both CPU and GPU and it work fine. I've had issue with OHM before so since then I've delayed it's startup by 30sec and I've had no problem since.


----------



## VSG

Why are so many of you using software temps to control aquasuite? Isn't a simple in-line or stop plug temperature sensor that tells you the loop temperature better?

I would imagine the software temps would be good if you have the Aquaero set up to shut down the rig but I still haven't really figured it out


----------



## Kimir

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Why are so many of you using software temps to control aquasuite? Isn't a simple in-line or stop plug temperature sensor that tells you the loop temperature better?
> 
> I would imagine the software temps would be good if you have the Aquaero set up to shut down the rig but I still haven't really figured it out


I have 2 rads fans dependant to GPU temp and the 2 other rads dependant to CPU temp, all that to keep thing cool and quiet, that's why.
The in-line water temperature difference isn't big enough to me to make a profile.


----------



## VSG

Ok, fair enough. I never made a delta T based fan curve. I had one sensor for the GPUs and one for the CPU and just had the fan curve based on the absolute temperature. This works better with individual GPU and CPU loops as I will have soon, but my reasoning is that the rad fans can only cool the liquid in the loop and so I wanted them to ramp up/slow down based on it. Keeping the GPU/CPU cool is a function of the waterblock, thermal paste/pads, mounting etc as well.


----------



## Shoggy

Quick info about the last few posts.

The problem that sometimes the software sensors do not work because of time differences when all involved programs are started will be fixed with the next update. We also changed the way how the autostart works so some specific restrictions on a system should be no problem anymore. Besides that there will be many other small fixes.


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kimir*
> 
> I have 2 rads fans dependant to GPU temp and the 2 other rads dependant to CPU temp, all that to keep thing cool and quiet, that's why.
> The in-line water temperature difference isn't big enough to me to make a profile.


But this means, you are only ramping two fans when something is loaded, and only all four fans when both CPU and GPU are loaded. I don't understand how this can be quieter than ramping all four fans for all situations.

The in-line temperature can be targeted for 0.1C delta, why isn't it big enough difference?


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Kimir*
> 
> I have 2 rads fans dependant to GPU temp and the 2 other rads dependant to CPU temp, all that to keep thing cool and quiet, that's why.
> The in-line water temperature difference isn't big enough to me to make a profile.
> 
> 
> 
> But this means, you are only ramping two fans when something is loaded, and only all four fans when both CPU and GPU are loaded. I don't understand how this can be quieter than ramping all four fans for all situations.
> 
> The in-line temperature can be targeted for 0.1C delta, why isn't it big enough difference?
Click to expand...

I think what he was getting at in general, was that when you have a greater shift between min and max ambient temps than working coolant temps, that using a small gradient is subordinated by the normal range of ambients, so you need something more absolute, like cpu or gpu temp.

Darlene


----------



## Kimir

Yep, what you said Darlene.
I also didn't expressed myself correctly, it's not only two fans, but two radiators's fans.
See, for example, my 480mm top rad is dependant to CPU temp, I see no need to ramp up the speed of the others radiators fan if this alone is sufficient.
But every setup is different, I prefer it that way than the other, personal choice that is, nothing else.


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> I think what he was getting at in general, was that when you have a greater shift between min and max ambient temps than working coolant temps, that using a small gradient is subordinated by the normal range of ambients, so you need something more absolute, like cpu or gpu temp.


I always understood that it's a false economy. Because CPU and GPU temp are not absolute, but dependent on coolant temp, which is dependent on ambients anyway. When one ignores coolant temperature, and sets fan speeds based on target temperatures for components, one is second-guessing the amount of heat produced, and second-guessing the fan speed needed to reduce this. But I'm not familiar with complex loops such as Kimir has, with some components separated, and not all interdependent. So perhaps I miss something?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kimir*
> 
> Yep, what you said Darlene.
> I also didn't expressed myself correctly, it's not only two fans, but two radiators's fans.
> See, for example, my 480mm top rad is dependant to CPU temp, I see no need to ramp up the speed of the others radiators fan if this alone is sufficient.
> But every setup is different, I prefer it that way than the other, personal choice that is, nothing else.


Yes, of course, I don't mean to tell you what to do. I'm trying to understand how it can work quieter, that's all. Maybe I can learn something new









I looked at your build log, it's a very nice setup you have. So the 480 rad is exhaust, but it seems you have enough fresh air coming in, that this is no disadvantage to rad-intake temp? And the other rad-fans are in the pedestal below, and only depend on temps of your GPUs? How is the front 240 fan speed controlled?


----------



## Kimir

In fact it is setup this way:
The two 480mm rads are dependant to CPU temperature and
the 360mm in lower chamber and the 240mm in front are dependant to the GPUs temperatures.

The 480mm rad fans are each on a channel on the Aquaero (1 & 2 if I recall) and the 360mm monsta has 4 fans on a channel as well. As you can understand the monsta is in P/P, so the two p/p fans in the front are with the two fans from the front rad. That's one reason I keep the front 240mm radiator linked to the 360mm one.
Like this, I have cold air getting sucked in from the lower chamber and hot air from the top as exhaust whenever the CPU is under load. And since most of the time (if not all the time) the GPUs are under load at the same time the CPU is, all the lower chamber fans runs at about the same speed so the air is moving from the left to the right. And the front is giving some air for the top to expulse.
Is my logic any good? Don't know but doesn't seem to be that bad.

I have two in-line water temperature sensor, one after the 240+480+360 rads combo (on the flow meter, just before the GPUs), this one is called the cold water sensor,. And the second one is on the intake of the top 480mm rad, right after the two GPUs and MB (CPU VRM) blocks and before the CPU, this one I call hot water.
I must say, since I tried a setup with water temp, I discovered that I can create a virtual sensor with absolute difference between those two sensors and I haven't tried to create a profile with that.
By the way, there is now way to save into different profile directly from the Aquasuite software, right?

Also, does anyone find the mouse on the remote totally unusable, I mean it look like it move but it's too damn slow.


----------



## Slider46

I'll add my two cents to this conversation since I just finished messing around with different fan control curves and setups on the Aquaero 5.

I originally setup a curve controller based on CPU core and then later based on the average temperature of CPU and GPU core. I didn't like this setup and @WiSK's explanation is exactly why I didn't like this setup.

Whenever the CPU or GPU went under load and experienced a temperature spike, the fans would ramp way up. While this wasn't terrible during synthetic tests like Prime or OCCT, this absolutely drove me nuts during normal use. The fans would ramp up and then slow down multiple times per minute based on actual CPU/GPU temp.

My second attempt at a curve controller was based on coolant temperature only. I could very well set a curve based on coolant temperature and get a nice smooth progression in fan speed as the coolant temp increased. However, the issue I saw was that if my ambient temperature changed, the coolant temperature changed and therefore my curve control was no longer accurate. It was based on a temperature curve for a given ambient temperature. This meant when my ambient was very low, the fans were much slower to respond to a thermal load. The opposite happened when my ambient was higher, the fans never really got below 70-80% power.

My solution to the control issue I discovered from someone else's post here on OCN (cant' remember). I made a new curve controller based on the difference between ambient and coolant temperature. This solved the issue of a fluctuating ambient temp throwing off my curve and also allowed gradual increase of fan speed based on coolant temperature, not the up and down fan speeds that I had when the curve was based on component temperatures.


----------



## VSG

Solution: Have a constant ambient


----------



## Kimir

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Solution: Have a constant ambient


For that we need air conditioning, I wish I had that...
Gonna try to play with water/air sensor and curve since it's hot this days, can't bench.


----------



## Roikyou

I've got two inline temp sensor at two different points in the loop and set my curve on those temps. I like the option once in a while to look at the display, see what the cpu and gpu are up to. My water temps are pretty linear, from ambient at boot (20 something) to 40c depending on room temp and load.

I reinstalled Aquasuite last night, still no luck with ohm 6 beta, went back to 5 beta, no problem, working now.

Appreciate and understand the start up issues Shoggy mentioned. I have yet to mess with delays and such.

With Aida, I did set up "enable writing sensor values to wmi" but for some reason gpu never shows up.

HWINFO is just finicky all together. If I can get it to work, I find Aquasuite service not start. I think I've got the service issue starting resolved but then getting HWINFO to start is just obnoxious. I've tried schedules, start folders, privileges, admin rights, disabling UAC, still no luck, would rather deal with OHM.

Personally, I'd rather stick with OHM (less headache) and wait for the new version of Aquasuite, then I'll give 6.x beta from OHM a try again.


----------



## Kimir

Have you tried the Alpha 11 of OHM? (http://openhardwaremonitor.org/files/openhardwaremonitor-v0.6.0.11-alpha.zip)
Must have for anyone that want to use OHM with a 4930k as the beta doesn't report frequency and temperatures.


----------



## Roikyou

Never knew that version existed as they're page only shows 0.6.0 beta. Also the previous versions in the download tabs of 0.5.1 and earlier. Could try that this evening and see if it works.


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kimir*
> 
> In fact it is setup this way:
> Is my logic any good? Don't know but doesn't seem to be that bad.
> ...
> I have two in-line water temperature sensor, one after the 240+480+360 rads combo (on the flow meter, just before the GPUs), this one is called the cold water sensor,. And the second one is on the intake of the top 480mm rad, right after the two GPUs and MB (CPU VRM) blocks and before the CPU, this one I call hot water. I must say, since I tried a setup with water temp, I discovered that I can create a virtual sensor with absolute difference between those two sensors and I haven't tried to create a profile with that.
> ...
> By the way, there is now way to save into different profile directly from the Aquasuite software, right?


Thanks for explaining your setup. Of course, logic comes as you experience things, and it's good to experiment and see what works for you. My experience is only with smaller rigs, where there aren't enough radiators to control separately. That's why I'm curious about yours.

Speaking of the hot and cold water sensors, I've never tried this either. It seems that the delta between these two would be rather constant. I use the difference between my 'hot' water sensor and ambient to make a virtual sensor.




Multiple profiles seems indeed a function of the Aquaero itself. It doesn't seem to be available in Aquasuite, which writes its settings to the currently active profile.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Slider46*
> 
> Whenever the CPU or GPU went under load and experienced a temperature spike, the fans would ramp way up. While this wasn't terrible during synthetic tests like Prime or OCCT, this absolutely drove me nuts during normal use. The fans would ramp up and then slow down multiple times per minute based on actual CPU/GPU temp.


This was the reason I bought an Aquaero in the first place. Disconnection between Asus Fan Xpert and in Afterburner meant that I was endlessly fiddling around with profiles depending on what I was doing with the PC, and what month of the year it was. Now I can have the same setting all year, and maybe in Summer I make the target set point 15C delta instead of 12C. But again, I have only one radiator on that rig, so it's a kind of easymode anyway. New rig I'm building has two rads, but I can't fit the Aquaero into it unless I remove the display.


----------



## valvehead

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Slider46*
> 
> My solution to the control issue I discovered from someone else's post here on OCN (cant' remember). I made a new curve controller based on the difference between ambient and coolant temperature. This solved the issue of a fluctuating ambient temp throwing off my curve and also allowed gradual increase of fan speed based on coolant temperature, not the up and down fan speeds that I had when the curve was based on component temperatures.


That may have been my post.







There's no point in cranking up the fans until there is significant heat in the water to be removed.

I'm still using water-to-ambient delta to control my fans. Now that it's summer I tweaked the min and max temps on the curve a little. They are now 4.5 C and 7.5 C respectively. I'm not at home right now to confirm, but I think I have the slope maxed out so that the system is very quiet until the delta gets above about 7.0 C. The result is that the delta almost never gets above 7.5 C, and that's with both CPU and GPU running full tilt (e.g. [email protected]).

I'm only controlling my fans with the curve. My D5 USB pump is fixed at constant 19% power. This makes for about 100 L/hr IIRC. I did some extensive testing and found that the fans could run _much_ lower for the same water-air delta as compared to running the pump at 100%. The CPU and GPU temps are about 1 to 2 C higher at this low flow rate, but the system is much much quieter than for a higher flow rate. I think this is because the water spends more time in the rad each time around, so it cools more efficiently. So for my case, lower flow rate is better.


----------



## Slider46

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *valvehead*
> 
> That may have been my post.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There's no point in cranking up the fans until there is significant heat in the water to be removed.
> 
> I'm still using water-to-ambient delta to control my fans. Now that it's summer I tweaked the min and max temps on the curve a little. They are now 4.5 C and 7.5 C respectively. I'm not at home right now to confirm, but I think I have the slope maxed out so that the system is very quiet until the delta gets above about 7.0 C. The result is that the delta almost never gets above 7.5 C, and that's with both CPU and GPU running full tilt (e.g. [email protected]).
> 
> I'm only controlling my fans with the curve. My D5 USB pump is fixed at constant 19% power. This makes for about 100 L/hr IIRC. I did some extensive testing and found that the fans could run _much_ lower for the same water-air delta as compared to running the pump at 100%. The CPU and GPU temps are about 1 to 2 C higher at this low flow rate, but the system is much much quieter than for a higher flow rate. I think this is because the water spends more time in the rad each time around, so it cools more efficiently. So for my case, lower flow rate is better.


Yup that's the one! Thanks









Interesting bit about the pump speed. Mine is variable as well although I have to manually adjust it via a knob on the bottom - I don't have it configured to work with the aquaero. May have to look into adding the Poweradjust module later on down the line.









I may try adjusting mine down a bit just for noise reduction but it's a pain to do it now since I have to remove a fan from my 240 rad to get to the adjustment screw.


----------



## 386DX40

Having made the mistake of buying the Aquaero 6 XT and the Swiftech MCP655-PWM only to find that the Aquaero 6 would not drive the PWM control of the MCP655.
I posted on AquaComputer's site and the reply was that the pump needed a pull up resistor to make it work.
Quote:


> The Pump needs an external resistor to run with the standard pwm control signal from the aquaero. The Developers from the pump has forgotten this.


Taking matters into my own hands I began experimenting. I found that a 10K pull up between the PWM wire and +5v gave me PWM control of the MCP655-PWM !!

100% PWM gives 5000 RPMs
75% PWM gives 3100 RPMs
50% PWM gives 1710 RPMs
25% PWM gives 800 RPMs
20% PWM gave 0 RPMs
0% PWM gives 5000 RPMs

Pump stopped below 20% and would not start again until 25%

Junkie


----------



## riesscar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *386DX40*
> 
> Having made the mistake of buying the Aquaero 6 XT and the Swiftech MCP655-PWM only to find that the Aquaero 6 would not drive the PWM control of the MCP655.
> I posted on AquaComputer's site and the reply was that the pump needed a pull up resistor to make it work.
> Taking matters into my own hands I began experimenting. I found that a 10K pull up between the PWM wire and +5v gave me PWM control of the MCP655-PWM !!
> 
> 100% PWM gives 5000 RPMs
> 75% PWM gives 3100 RPMs
> 50% PWM gives 1710 RPMs
> 25% PWM gives 800 RPMs
> 20% PWM gave 0 RPMs
> 0% PWM gives 5000 RPMs
> 
> Pump stopped below 20% and would not start again until 25%
> 
> Junkie


Could you elaborate on this, as I have the same pump with an aq6 that won't control it. What is a 10k pull up and how do you add +5v ?

Thanks for any clarification,

-Carson


----------



## psycho84

Aquaero 6 Pro with black Frontpanel and passiv Cooler











At the Moment:

Channel 1 --> Laing DDC 1T+
Channel 2 --> Laing DDC 1T+
Channel 3 --> 13 Noiseblocker Eloop
Channel 4 --> 2 Noiseblocker PK2


----------



## valvehead

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *riesscar*
> 
> Could you elaborate on this, as I have the same pump with an aq6 that won't control it. What is a 10k pull up and how do you add +5v ?
> 
> Thanks for any clarification,
> 
> -Carson


IT Diva has posted a few times about fixing this problem. Some posts are in this thread, and some were elsewhere. Here's one of them.


----------



## riesscar

I'll check those out. Thanks for the reply.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *386DX40*
> 
> Having made the mistake of buying the Aquaero 6 XT and the Swiftech MCP655-PWM only to find that the Aquaero 6 would not drive the PWM control of the MCP655.
> I posted on AquaComputer's site and the reply was that the pump needed a pull up resistor to make it work.
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> The Pump needs an external resistor to run with the standard pwm control signal from the aquaero. The Developers from the pump has forgotten this.
> 
> 
> 
> Taking matters into my own hands I began experimenting. I found that a 10K pull up between the PWM wire and +5v gave me PWM control of the MCP655-PWM !!
> 
> 100% PWM gives 5000 RPMs
> 75% PWM gives 3100 RPMs
> 50% PWM gives 1710 RPMs
> 25% PWM gives 800 RPMs
> 20% PWM gave 0 RPMs
> 0% PWM gives 5000 RPMs
> 
> Pump stopped below 20% and would not start again until 25%
> 
> Junkie
Click to expand...

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *riesscar*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *386DX40*
> 
> Having made the mistake of buying the Aquaero 6 XT and the Swiftech MCP655-PWM only to find that the Aquaero 6 would not drive the PWM control of the MCP655.
> I posted on AquaComputer's site and the reply was that the pump needed a pull up resistor to make it work.
> Taking matters into my own hands I began experimenting. I found that a 10K pull up between the PWM wire and +5v gave me PWM control of the MCP655-PWM !!
> 
> 100% PWM gives 5000 RPMs
> 75% PWM gives 3100 RPMs
> 50% PWM gives 1710 RPMs
> 25% PWM gives 800 RPMs
> 20% PWM gave 0 RPMs
> 0% PWM gives 5000 RPMs
> 
> Pump stopped below 20% and would not start again until 25%
> 
> Junkie
> 
> 
> 
> Could you elaborate on this, as I have the same pump with an aq6 that won't control it. What is a 10k pull up and how do you add +5v ?
> 
> Thanks for any clarification,
> 
> -Carson
Click to expand...

Start reading from the page valvehead linked to. There's a full "How To" on how to get 5V at the A6 plug-in and connect the resistor from the 5V point to the PWM pin.

Testing and looking at the PWM on the scope shows that using a 4.7K pull up resistor for a single pump, and 2.2 or 3.3 for dual D5's works the best.

10K is too weak. It works, but half of that works much better. . . . The control range is terribly skewed with too weak a pullup.

Normally, It should not stop until the duty cycle is actually 0%, and it will restart at ~8% with optimized pull up values.

It will slow down to about 820 rpm at about 15 to 20% and stay at that speed until the duty cycle hits 0.

It should max out by ~75%.

Darlene


----------



## riesscar

Hey Darlene,

Thanks for the info! I really appreciate it, as the inability to control my D5 via PWM on my AQ6 is a source of considerable frustration. I have been using my MB CPU fan header -- which is PWM capable -- to control the pump output; however, doing so leaves me without the ability to set a custom curve... so I end up usually just running at 100% 24hrs/day. Looks like I'm heading to RadioShack tomorrow

I do have two pumps: one is a D5 PWM and the other is a MC35x PWM. I know that it is strange to have two different pump types together in a loop, but the latter was purchased before I knew anything about water cooling and is integrated into my Apogee Drive II. Currently, it is controlled via the AQ6, so my question is this: Does this second pump already controlled by the AQ6 factor in the same way as a 2nd D5, or should I implement the resistors as if if is just 1 D5?

Thanks again,

Carson


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *riesscar*
> 
> Hey Darlene,
> 
> Thanks for the info! I really appreciate it, as the inability to control my D5 via PWM on my AQ6 is a source of considerable frustration. I have been using my MB CPU fan header -- which is PWM capable -- to control the pump output; however, doing so leaves me without the ability to set a custom curve... so I end up usually just running at 100% 24hrs/day. Looks like I'm heading to RadioShack tomorrow
> 
> I do have two pumps: one is a D5 PWM and the other is a MC35x PWM. I know that it is strange to have two different pump types together in a loop, but the latter was purchased before I knew anything about water cooling and is integrated into my Apogee Drive II. Currently, it is controlled via the AQ6, so my question is this: Does this second pump already controlled by the AQ6 factor in the same way as a 2nd D5, or should I implement the resistors as if if is just 1 D5?
> 
> Thanks again,
> 
> Carson


The 35X has a built in pullup, so no need to factor that in.

If you want to run both pumps together from the same channel of your Aquaero, and I assume from the question that you do, you'll want to use one of these Swiftech splitter cables:

http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=34910

Build your adapter circuit on the D5's plug, and plug it into the main receptacle, the one with all 4 wires to the other end, of the Swiftech cable.

Plug your 35X into the secondary plug, but you can leave the other end of the secondary plug unconnected, unless you have an extra channel on your A6 . . . Though I expect that if you did, you wouldn't have asked the question.

Alternatively, . . .you might want to plug that connector onto the mobo CPU fan header to be able to read the rpm from the 35X pump as CPU fan speed and not worry about "CPU Fan error" warnings popping up.

The rpm reading on the A6 will be from the D5.

Darlene


----------



## fast_fate

Starting wiring up on S_alive_8's Aquaero


----------



## Wolfsbora

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fast_fate*
> 
> Starting wiring up on S_alive_8's Aquaero
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


The jealousy is erupting right now... Your build gets better and better all the time!


----------



## Kimir

That's some really clean job you're doing here!


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fast_fate*
> 
> Starting wiring up on S_alive_8's Aquaero
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


great idea on the cable routing!! I like the pass through on the brackets!! I am going to copy this if it is ok?


----------



## mandrix

Interesting....what kind of brackets are those the Aquaero is mounted to? Don't believe I've ever seen that before. Both my Aquaero's are just mounted straight to the flex bay on my SM8 but a more elegant solution with a "cable guide" could be nice.
Guess I could make something similar.....

Scott I thought you were going to 6 flags...


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mandrix*
> 
> Interesting....what kind of brackets are those the Aquaero is mounted to? Don't believe I've ever seen that before. Both my Aquaero's are just mounted straight to the flex bay on my SM8 but a more elegant solution with a "cable guide" could be nice.
> Guess I could make something similar.....
> 
> Scott I thought you were going to 6 flags...


going to leave in 15 minutes.. dont open till 10:30am so we going to beat morning rush traffic and eat at waffle house before it opens!!


----------



## kpoeticg




----------



## fast_fate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mandrix*
> 
> Interesting....what kind of brackets are those the Aquaero is mounted to? Don't believe I've ever seen that before. Both my Aquaero's are just mounted straight to the flex bay on my SM8 but a more elegant solution with a "cable guide" could be nice.
> Guess I could make something similar.....


The CaseLabs brackets are these triple bay mounts.
Above the cable pass through is cut away for the light shelf which it directly above it.
MAC-320



and the Aquaero brackets were sent to me as replacements from Shoggy.
The holes at the front of the bracket are set slightly closer to the edge, so the Aquaero unit as a whole isn't as wide and fits inside the bays width properly.

Thanks again Shoggy









and Thanks for the positive comments crew


----------



## mandrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fast_fate*
> 
> The CaseLabs brackets are these triple bay mounts.
> Above the cable pass through is cut away for the light shelf which it directly above it.
> MAC-320
> 
> 
> 
> and the Aquaero brackets were sent to me as replacements from Shoggy.
> The holes at the front of the bracket are set slightly closer to the edge, so the Aquaero unit as a whole isn't as wide and fits inside the bays width properly.
> 
> Thanks again Shoggy
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and Thanks for the positive comments crew


Ah, OK. I have the short triple bay mounts for my two Aquaero's and the FC9, I didn't think about the longer ones.
Still the Aquaero's were a pain to install due to the hole spacing.


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> going to leave in 15 minutes.. dont open till 10:30am so we going to beat morning rush traffic and eat at waffle house before it opens!!


Pulled into waffle house close to 6 flags to have big breakfast. Knew it was not nice area and was playing with my daughter and daid hope some one was not killed. It was closed so i ask a waffle house employee why and was told because cook shot and killed a customer!!!! OMG


----------



## VSG

Geez, that's a good start already huh?


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> going to leave in 15 minutes.. dont open till 10:30am so we going to beat morning rush traffic and eat at waffle house before it opens!!
> 
> 
> 
> Pulled into waffle house close to 6 flags to have big breakfast. Knew it was not nice area and was playing with my daughter and daid hope some one was not killed. It was closed so i ask a waffle house employee why and was told because cook shot and killed a customer!!!! OMG
Click to expand...

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Geez, that's a good start already huh?


Looks like someone's Friday the thirteenth isn't starting off too lucky . . . . .

D.


----------



## Mayhem

Love my Aquaero 5's We have

1 x A5 Xt
1 x A5 Pro
2 x A5 Lt

My only issue is that the USB header should be 1 way only so that you cannot accidentally put it the wrong way around. Its annoying when a trainee comes in and blew 2 up because hes put them on back to front ....

The other thing that i don't like is they use analog temp monitors and id prefer one wire digital ones for accuracy and speed, it is 2014 after all. We use The A5's to control the fans how ever we use crystal fotntz for temp readings now due to accuracy.


----------



## ozzy1925

i just received my package from aquacomputer



when i look closer to the screen i saw some spots looking like rust or burned icant tell:



how can i remove them?


----------



## Shoggy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ozzy1925*
> 
> how can i remove them?


With Coca Cola









Have a look at this post.


----------



## ozzy1925

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> With Coca Cola
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Have a look at this post.


thanks for the quick reply , afk going to market


----------



## gdubc

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ozzy1925*
> 
> i just received my package from aquacomputer
> 
> 
> 
> when i look closer to the screen i saw some spots looking like rust or burned icant tell:
> 
> 
> 
> how can i remove them?






Your fans....so jelly.


----------



## ozzy1925

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gdubc*
> 
> 
> Your fans....so jelly.


ty







is there any guide showing how to replace the front panel of 6xt with black one

edit:done with coke how does it look now?



@Shoggy

can you tell me why does the flow meter pins look like this?


shouldnt be look like this?


----------



## 386DX40

Quick FYI.

The 4.7K pull up only gave me about 4700 rpm at the pump where as the 10k gave me the full 5000 rpm.
Taking my 5v from the 4 pin Molex power plug.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Start reading from the page valvehead linked to. There's a full "How To" on how to get 5V at the A6 plug-in and connect the resistor from the 5V point to the PWM pin.
> 
> Testing and looking at the PWM on the scope shows that using a 4.7K pull up resistor for a single pump, and 2.2 or 3.3 for dual D5's works the best.
> 
> 10K is too weak. It works, but half of that works much better. . . . The control range is terribly skewed with too weak a pullup.
> 
> Normally, It should not stop until the duty cycle is actually 0%, and it will restart at ~8% with optimized pull up values.
> 
> It will slow down to about 820 rpm at about 15 to 20% and stay at that speed until the duty cycle hits 0.
> 
> It should max out by ~75%.
> 
> Darlene


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *386DX40*
> 
> Quick FYI.
> 
> The 4.7K pull up only gave me about 4700 rpm at the pump where as the 10k gave me the full 5000 rpm.
> Taking my 5v from the 4 pin Molex power plug.
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Start reading from the page valvehead linked to. There's a full "How To" on how to get 5V at the A6 plug-in and connect the resistor from the 5V point to the PWM pin.
> 
> Testing and looking at the PWM on the scope shows that using a 4.7K pull up resistor for a single pump, and 2.2 or 3.3 for dual D5's works the best.
> 
> 10K is too weak. It works, but half of that works much better. . . . The control range is terribly skewed with too weak a pullup.
> 
> Normally, It should not stop until the duty cycle is actually 0%, and it will restart at ~8% with optimized pull up values.
> 
> It will slow down to about 820 rpm at about 15 to 20% and stay at that speed until the duty cycle hits 0.
> 
> It should max out by ~75%.
> 
> Darlene
Click to expand...

Cool, . . . and interesting, . .

Looks like some variation between individual pumps.

Seldom see the D5's go past 4800, except the Strong at 24V which hits 6100 to 6200.

Use the "hold minimum power" feature to set the minimum so you don't have to worry about it stopping below ~20%.

Darlene


----------



## Shoggy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ozzy1925*
> 
> can you tell me why does the flow meter pins look like this?


Because some idiot from the assembly has used the wrong housing? That looks like the one from the mps variant with USB and aquabus. Could you take a photo from the side so I can get an idea of the height?


----------



## ozzy1925

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> Because some idiot from the assembly has used the wrong housing? That looks like the one from the mps variant with USB and aquabus. Could you take a photo from the side so I can get an idea of the height?


Do you mean like this picture?


----------



## Shoggy

Yes, as assumed: it is the wrong case









If you send me a PM with your address I can send you the right one. The inner parts can be easily removed and installed to the correct case.


----------



## VSG

Hey Shoggy, have you guys figured out why most of the AQ6 units here had issues fitting in a 5 1/4 bay? Mine was ok with the 900D but next to impossible in the Caselabs case.


----------



## ozzy1925

@geggeg

i saw you are using black frontpanel .can you tell me how you manage to remove the original one ?It looks like it has too much glue on it


----------



## VSG

Use a thin, sharp object and pry it loose. Work around the corners and then move towards the middle. I know some people had to use a razor or knife but in my case fingernails were enough.


----------



## ozzy1925

can i try with credit card and should i glue back when putting the new panel?


----------



## SuprUsrStan

I've got a stupid yet simple question. Where's the setting to select the display rotation and screens that I want displayed?


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ozzy1925*
> 
> can i try with credit card and should i glue back when putting the new panel?


A credit card may be too thick, but try it out anyway. There should be enough glue left on the main piece to put in the black panel and hold it in place.


----------



## Kimir

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Syan48306*
> 
> I've got a stupid yet simple question. Where's the setting to select the display rotation and screens that I want displayed?


Information pages in the Aquasuite.


----------



## ozzy1925

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> A credit card may be too thick, but try it out anyway. There should be enough glue left on the main piece to put in the black panel and hold it in place.


thanks for the information ,first thing to do in the morning


----------



## SuprUsrStan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kimir*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Syan48306*
> 
> I've got a stupid yet simple question. Where's the setting to select the display rotation and screens that I want displayed?
> 
> 
> 
> Information pages in the Aquasuite.
Click to expand...

You have no idea how long I've been looking for this. Thanks


----------



## Kimir

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Syan48306*
> 
> You have no idea how long I've been looking for this. Thanks


You're welcome. I think I got the Aquasuite pretty good now, except the overview thing that I find way too complicated to configure so I don't use it at all (I'd rather move myself in front of the Aquaero and scroll through my pages and graph to look on what I want).


----------



## 386DX40

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Hey Shoggy, have you guys figured out why most of the AQ6 units here had issues fitting in a 5 1/4 bay? Mine was ok with the 900D but next to impossible in the Caselabs case.


I just installed mine and it was a bear to get in, after install it kept clicking as if I was pressing a button on it. Seems it was such a tight fight that it was warping the front panel!
I cured it by loosening the allen head screws on the front and letting the side panels move inward.
Just loosen them, let it adjust it's self and tighten again.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ozzy1925*
> 
> @geggeg
> 
> i saw you are using black frontpanel .can you tell me how you manage to remove the original one ?It looks like it has too much glue on it


I replaced the panel just before I installed mine. I took a razor knife and used it to get the plate separated from the back panel. I gently pried the plate off, running my finger nail between them to sort of help. It will come off.. just be patient, don't bend the plate too much and work it off.


----------



## seross69

@geggeg Case Labs sells a special mount for it!! Ask About this!!


----------



## VSG

I know, it is in my cart ready to he ordered once I have finalized my radiator mounting options. I was just wondering why it fits in the 900D but not here. Both cases were perfect to specs and everything else fit perfectly.


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> I know, it is in my cart ready to he ordered once I have finalized my radiator mounting options. I was just wondering why it fits in the 900D but not here. Both cases were perfect to specs and everything else fit perfectly.


they tell what the reason is and it is because of AQ but I can not find the thread on it now!!


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> they tell what the reason is and it is because of AQ but I can not find the thread on it now!!


http://www.overclock.net/t/1456232/in-need-of-a-bracket-for-aquaero-6/










edit:

http://www.overclock.net/t/1457879/flex-bay-5-25-device-mount-short-nonconforming-mac-508-now-available/


----------



## fast_fate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Hey Shoggy, have you guys figured out why most of the AQ6 units here had issues fitting in a 5 1/4 bay? Mine was ok with the 900D but next to impossible in the Caselabs case.


There is a solution








Problem was brought up here and CaseLabs brought out the special brackets.

But really it was the Aquaero width that was causing the fitting issues.
Glad That AC has addressed the issue.
Shoggy sent me replacement brackets upon request







Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> XNine noticed me about this topic since I normally only look into the watercooling board.
> 
> We are currently looking into this issue and we will change the mounting brackets so that this problem should not appear again with further series. Well, the problem is still a bit strange because we use these mounting brackets unchanged since the aquaero 5 series which is on sale since three years and we sold several thousands of them. So far pretty much nobody came back to us indicating any serious problems to install the device into a case.
> 
> Anyway, we see where the problem is and it will be fixed. At the moment I guess that the affected cases might have no or only very small tolerances while other cases might provide a bit more space - otherwise I have no idea why we never heard of such problems before. *Customers that see no way to mount their already purchased aquaero can drop me a PM with their address so we can send them a new set of mounting brackets* but please be aware that it will take some time.


----------



## ozzy1925

@IT Diva
Can you please add me to the list aq6 xt thanks!


----------



## Nornam

If you see this It Diva & get the time could you add me to your list also please









Been meaning to update my wares for ages now & have finally got around to it... So here is the list of AQ's I have...

2 x Aquaero 5XT's, 1 x Aquaero 5Pro, 3 x Aquaero 5LT's......

1 x Aquaero 6XT & 1 x Aquaero 6Pro.... biggrin.gif

Am working on a couple of guides to add to my Aquaero Reviews/Guides & will hopefully have them done in the next couple of weeks or so & as & when between my Radiotherapy & various Hospital visits... smile.gif

Thanks Darlene your a Star









Nornam (Namron)


----------



## IT Diva

Mayhem, ozzy1925 and Nornam added.

If I missed anyone, let me know.

Darlene


----------



## fast_fate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> If I missed anyone, let me know.
> 
> Darlene


S'pose you should add me too
1 x 5 XT
1 x 5 Pro
1 x 5 XT
1 x 4.0 USB

Thanks Darlene


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fast_fate*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> If I missed anyone, let me know.
> 
> Darlene
> 
> 
> 
> S'pose you should add me too
> 1 x 5 XT
> 1 x 5 Pro
> 1 x 5 XT
> 1 x 4.0 USB
> 
> Thanks Darlene
Click to expand...

Added . . . . what's the 4.0 USB?

Darlene


----------



## fast_fate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Added . . . . what's the 4.0 USB?
> 
> Darlene


info page still here
Info from my original box
Product number 53076
Aquaero 4.00 USB
Fan-Controller
VF-Display mit (English Version)

Technical Data
Aquaero Rev. 4.00
Voltage: 5/12V
Connections: USB, flow rate sensor, Multi-Color-LED, aquabus, aquastream-bridge, relay, stand-by supply
Fan-Connections: 4 outputs with rpm-signal, max. 10W/channel, 1A
Temperature sensors: 6 sensor inputs, 10kOhm NTC, range 0-100°C (32-212°F)
Alarm: floating output (normally open contact)
Maximum capacity of the channels: 10W
Capacity of the relay: 1A, max. 12V


----------



## IT Diva

Makes sense now.

The idea of an older Rev. 4.0 didn't hit me. . . .

I think the USB part sidetracked my old and feeble brain.

Shoggy has a Rev. 3.07.

Darlene


----------



## Nilsom

hello to all
I finally got my xt AQ6
is still too complicated for me
Several options, as put image here?
thank you all


----------



## Shoggy

What do you want to do or how do you want to control the fans etc.? There is almost no limit how to control something but of course at first you need an idea how you want to do it.


----------



## Nornam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nilsom*
> 
> hello to all
> I finally got my xt AQ6
> is still too complicated for me
> Several options, as put image here?
> thank you all


I've done a couple of guides for the Aquaero 5 HERE Although it's for the AQ 5 A lot of it is the same to set up the Aquaero 6 as regards to setting up Curve Controls for fans e.t.c .... There's quite a lot to go through depending on what your wanting to do, But there should be something there that will give you an Idea of what you can do







.....

I've been out of commission for a little while & have not yet quite completed the guides I'm doing for the Aquaero 6 but these are on the way. But for now you should be able to get some idea from the Aquaero 5 link I put above... Hope it helps..







..

Nam.


----------



## VSG

Hey Norman, how's _it_ going on? Beaten it out yet?


----------



## Nilsom

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nornam*
> 
> I've done a couple of guides for the Aquaero 5 HERE Although it's for the AQ 5 A lot of it is the same to set up the Aquaero 6 as regards to setting up Curve Controls for fans e.t.c .... There's quite a lot to go through depending on what your wanting to do, But there should be something there that will give you an Idea of what you can do
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .....
> 
> I've been out of commission for a little while & have not yet quite completed the guides I'm doing for the Aquaero 6 but these are on the way. But for now you should be able to get some idea from the Aquaero 5 link I put above... Hope it helps..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ..
> 
> Nam.


thank you my friend.


----------



## Nornam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Hey Norman, how's _it_ going on? Beaten it out yet?


Heya Geg... Thanks for asking bud







Have started the Radiotherapy & that's going really well so far







...

I've had three doses so far of the Radiotherapy & got another 9 doses to go on this first round, Then they see how it's going & if they have managed to shrink it some. The Hospital has said there will more than likely be another 10 to 15 doses more after this first lot & then maybe move to Chemotherapy only if there are area's of the Tumour that they couldn't get to with the Radiotherapy. But won't know that until a little further down the line Mate, So got my fingers crossed but so far all is going well









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nilsom*
> 
> thank you my friend.


Your welcome & hope it helps, There are many Good & knowledgeable people on here that use the Aquaero apart from me that I'm sure can & will help you with questions once you get an idea of what you want to achieve







But in the meantime Happy Reading & take your time & I'm sure you'll be fine







....

Nam..


----------



## mandrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Mayhem, ozzy1925 and Nornam added.
> 
> If I missed anyone, let me know.
> 
> Darlene


2x AQ5 Pro's
1x AQ5 LT
1x PA2 Ultra


----------



## pathfindercod

Need some help fellas. I am in the final staged of planning and gathering parts. I have 22 corsair sp120 quiet pwm fans. I originally bought 3 nzxt 8 way splitters. Now I am realizing I won't be able to control them via the mother board headers because powered by the psu. What options do I have with aquacomputer to control these things? Thank you!


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pathfindercod*
> 
> Need some help fellas. I am in the final staged of planning and gathering parts. I have 22 corsair sp120 quiet pwm fans. I originally bought 3 nzxt 8 way splitters. Now I am realizing I won't be able to control them via the mother board headers because powered by the psu. What options do I have with aquacomputer to control these things? Thank you!


"Diva - Dapters" if it's an early version Aquaero 6, and if it's a new one, . . . . .

It should be OK if you don't plan to put all 22 on the same channel.

Have you got a link on the NZXT splitter, need to be sure how it handles the tach signal before advising further.

Darlene


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mandrix*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Mayhem, ozzy1925 and Nornam added.
> 
> If I missed anyone, let me know.
> 
> Darlene
> 
> 
> 
> 2x AQ5 Pro's
> 1x AQ5 LT
> 1x PA2 Ultra
Click to expand...

Gotcha









D.


----------



## pathfindercod

Sorry it is swiftech adapters:
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/20988/ele-1196/Swiftech_8-Way_PWM_Cable_Splitter_-_SATA_Power_8W-PWM-SPL-ST.html

What is diva - adapter? I googled it and can't find anything on them. Thank you very much!!

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> "Diva - Dapters" if it's an early version Aquaero 6, and if it's a new one, . . . . .
> 
> It should be OK if you don't plan to put all 22 on the same channel.
> 
> Have you got a link on the NZXT splitter, need to be sure how it handles the tach signal before advising further.
> 
> Darlene


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pathfindercod*
> 
> Sorry it is swiftech adapters:
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/20988/ele-1196/Swiftech_8-Way_PWM_Cable_Splitter_-_SATA_Power_8W-PWM-SPL-ST.html
> 
> What is diva - adapter? I googled it and can't find anything on them. Thank you very much!!


Diva 'Dapter
http://www.overclock.net/t/1474470/ocn-aquaero-owners-club/210#post_21994684


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pathfindercod*
> 
> Sorry it is swiftech adapters:
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/20988/ele-1196/Swiftech_8-Way_PWM_Cable_Splitter_-_SATA_Power_8W-PWM-SPL-ST.html
> 
> What is diva - adapter? I googled it and can't find anything on them. Thank you very much!!


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *pathfindercod*
> 
> Sorry it is swiftech adapters:
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/20988/ele-1196/Swiftech_8-Way_PWM_Cable_Splitter_-_SATA_Power_8W-PWM-SPL-ST.html
> 
> What is diva - adapter? I googled it and can't find anything on them. Thank you very much!!
> 
> 
> 
> Diva 'Dapter
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1474470/ocn-aquaero-owners-club/210#post_21994684
Click to expand...

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *pathfindercod*
> 
> Sorry it is swiftech adapters:
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/20988/ele-1196/Swiftech_8-Way_PWM_Cable_Splitter_-_SATA_Power_8W-PWM-SPL-ST.html
> 
> What is diva - adapter? I googled it and can't find anything on them. Thank you very much!!
Click to expand...

But it's the logo you guys came up with that makes them priceless . . . . .











The Swiftech splitters handle the tach signal properly, no mods required.

Darlene


----------



## pathfindercod

Nice ... Thanks geggeg and wisk.. I can split the fans over how many and where do I acquire these?


----------



## pathfindercod

Haha nice Darlene.. I'm late to the game it seems.. Built my first computer in 1987, doing my first ever water cooled system after approximately 450-500 pcs I've built..

I guess I need a 6xt and bunch of these adapters? Where do I obtain your great work?


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pathfindercod*
> 
> Nice ... Thanks geggeg and wisk.. I can split the fans over how many and where do I acquire these?


The Diva 'Dapter was something I created to work around the Aquaero 6's inability to control more than 4 to 5 of the Corsair PWM fans properly.

geggeg already had a bunch of the corsair fans when he got his A6 when it first came out, and found out it wasn't such a good combination, so I sent him one of the prototype Diva 'Dapters for some real world testing.

Aquacomputer made a small revision to some part values shortly after the initial batch shipped that allowed them to work much better with more than 4 to 5 of the Corsair PWM fans.

With the newer version, you shouldn't need a Diva 'Dapter.

The way to tell if you have a newer one is to look at the PC board and locate the resistors circled in the pics below.

If the resistors are marked as the pic, it's a new one.

If they are marked 100 or 101, it's the original release.

Darlene


----------



## pathfindercod

awesome, thank you! So think I can use the swiftech adapters I linked or need to find like 5 to 6 way splitter?


----------



## VSG

I have the same Swiftech splitter and could only control 6 per channel. Others have not gone past 5 per channel. You will still need the newer Aquaero (not guaranteed you get a new one now since retailers still have the old stock) or something like the Diva 'Daptor. If you want to be certain, Corsair Link is the only thing I can think of that will work with no issues! Well, other than it being buggy still of course.


----------



## pathfindercod

How would I use corsair link? Sorry for the elementary questions..


----------



## pathfindercod

Well crap only the only place I found with it in stock is sold out now









Guess the pro would be fine though?


----------



## VSG

http://www.corsair.com/en-us/corsair-link-cooling-kit

The basic kit consists of a commander unit that goes into a blank 3.5" bay. You then hook up the cooling link to it. You can also get lightning kits which come with RGB strips.

Look more into it, I can't recommend it as a flawless product yet.


----------



## pathfindercod

Cool, thanks geggeg


----------



## Gabrielzm

http://www.aquatuning.us/product_info.php/info/p16059_Aquacomputer-aquaero-6-XT-USB-fan-controller--graphic-LCD--touch-control--IR-remote-control.html

@pathfindercod Are you looking for the Aquaero xt? Never used aquatuning but they have in stock


----------



## fast_fate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> http://www.aquatuning.us/product_info.php/info/p16059_Aquacomputer-aquaero-6-XT-USB-fan-controller--graphic-LCD--touch-control--IR-remote-control.html
> 
> @pathfindercod Are you looking for the Aquaero xt? Never used aquatuning but they have in stock


It may be different for the US site....
BUT when I've ordered from the Australian Aquatuning site, my orders have come from Germany.
When the orders were dispatched from Germany I get an email saying that it has been dispatched to local agent/distributor.
BUT they have always come direct to me.
I think the Aquatuning's different county's web stores might just be store fronts, with no actual stock on hand (or even a business perhaps) and they are actually all linked to the Germany site.

Maybe ???


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fast_fate*
> 
> It may be different for the US site....
> BUT when I've ordered from the Australian Aquatuning site, my orders have come from Germany.
> When the orders were dispatched from Germany I get an email saying that it has been dispatched to local agent/distributor.
> BUT they have always come direct to me.
> I think the Aquatuning's different county's web stores might just be store fronts, with no actual stock on hand (or even a business perhaps) and they are actually all linked to the Germany site.
> 
> Maybe ???


I might be mate, never order from it yet. Yet I notice they mention 50 units in stock. Perhaps Shoggy can clarify to us if He pass through here at some point.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> I might be mate, never order from it yet. Yet I notice they mention 50 units in stock. Perhaps Shoggy can clarify to us if He pass through here at some point.


Aquatuning is not Aquacomputer.

Totally different companies, both based out of Germany.

Aquatuning is a watercooling oriented retailer that markets itself worldwide and ships internationally from Germany.

Aquacomputer is a German company that specializes in products for the watercooling enthusiast.

Shoggy is the Aquacomputer rep here on OCN. Don't think he can answer much of anything about Aquatuning.


----------



## siffonen

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pathfindercod*
> 
> Well crap only the only place I found with it in stock is sold out now
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Guess the pro would be fine though?


I wouldnt recommend corsair link, i had it before i purchased Aquaero 6.
I had problems controlling my AP-14`s and also had some problems with se software.
Aquaero is in different planet, everything works much better that with corsair link, if you dont have the money to buy Aquaero 6, get a Aquaero 5.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *siffonen*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *pathfindercod*
> 
> Well crap only the only place I found with it in stock is sold out now
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Guess the pro would be fine though?
> 
> 
> 
> I wouldnt recommend corsair link, i had it before i purchased Aquaero 6.
> I had problems controlling my AP-14`s and also had some problems with se software.
> Aquaero is in different planet, everything works much better that with corsair link, if you dont have the money to buy Aquaero 6, get a Aquaero 5.
Click to expand...

The poster has a lot of Corsair PWM fans already, (22 iirc) the Aquaero 5 only has 1 PWM channel, where the new 6 version has all 4 being PWM or voltage control capable.

Getting a 5 series isn't going to help him too much.

If he orders from the Aquacomputer store, he'll surely get a new version at this point.

Hopefully, Shoggy will clarify.

Darlene


----------



## Shoggy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Hopefully, Shoggy will clarify.


We only ship the current version since a few weeks now.


----------



## siffonen

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *siffonen*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *pathfindercod*
> 
> Well crap only the only place I found with it in stock is sold out now
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Guess the pro would be fine though?
> 
> 
> 
> I wouldnt recommend corsair link, i had it before i purchased Aquaero 6.
> I had problems controlling my AP-14`s and also had some problems with se software.
> Aquaero is in different planet, everything works much better that with corsair link, if you dont have the money to buy Aquaero 6, get a Aquaero 5.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> The poster has a lot of Corsair PWM fans already, (22 iirc) the Aquaero 5 only has 1 PWM channel, where the new 6 version has all 4 being PWM or voltage control capable.
> 
> Getting a 5 series isn't going to help him too much.
> 
> If he orders from the Aquacomputer store, he'll surely get a new version at this point.
> 
> Hopefully, Shoggy will clarify.
> 
> Darlene
Click to expand...

In that case, Aquaero 6 is the choice.
With corsair link i didnt get my corsair fans to spin low enough, but with aq6 i can.


----------



## ozzy1925

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> The poster has a lot of Corsair PWM fans already, (22 iirc) the Aquaero 5 only has 1 PWM channel, where the new 6 version has all 4 being PWM or voltage control capable.
> 
> Getting a 5 series isn't going to help him too much.
> 
> If he orders from the Aquacomputer store, he'll surely get a new version at this point.
> 
> Hopefully, Shoggy will clarify.
> 
> Darlene


i just bought last week from aquacomputer its either my eyes or the writings are very small but looks like the new series


----------



## WiSK

I'd like to bring up again the idea that kpoeticg had a while ago: separating the screen of the Aquaero from the main PCB.

The suggestion was to use a shielded ribbon cable. Kpoeticg tested with an unshielded 20" cable and it didn't work. Signal not strong enough. In my case I can possibly mount the two halves with an 8" ribbon, but it would look awkward. And still no guarantee it would work.

So my question is electrical in nature. What is a better alternative to a ribbon, that can maintain signal strength. Or even, is there any way to boost signals in a circuit like this?


----------



## JLMS2010

I have the 6XT and going to be controlling 2x D5 pumps, 2x temp sensors and 13x SP120 fans. I'm using some modmytoys PWM distribution blocks. I'm planning to use 3 channels for the fans and 2 aquabus high for the 2 D5 pumps. Any recommendations?


----------



## VSG

If you are using the Aquabus, then you will need the Aquacomputer D5 or Aquastream pumps.


----------



## Newtocooling

If I want to get one more of these for my second loop.

http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_239_1299&products_id=32963

Where would I connect it to my aquaero? I already have one on the other loop using the flow sensor on the Aquaero now.


----------



## JLMS2010

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> If you are using the Aquabus, then you will need the Aquacomputer D5 or Aquastream pumps.


I'm using 2 of these but with the RPM monitoring wire

http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_201&products_id=30154

So I need *this* to use the 6 XT to control the pump?


----------



## mandrix

NM


----------



## Synomenon

Sorry, dp.


----------



## Synomenon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> We only ship the current version since a few weeks now.


I just purchased an Aquaero 6 Pro. from Performance-PCs. Do you know if they're shipping the latest version of the A6 Pro.?

Also, what's the best way to display whatever I want on the A6 Pro.'s screen? I got one to use more for displaying system statistics and whatever else I want. I've seen mention of software called LCDHype on other sites, but is there anything better / easier for displaying other things on the A6? I'm on Windows 8.1 Pro. x64.


----------



## kpoeticg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> I'd like to bring up again the idea that kpoeticg had a while ago: separating the screen of the Aquaero from the main PCB.
> 
> The suggestion was to use a shielded ribbon cable. Kpoeticg tested with an unshielded 20" cable and it didn't work. Signal not strong enough. In my case I can possibly mount the two halves with an 8" ribbon, but it would look awkward. And still no guarantee it would work.
> 
> So my question is electrical in nature. What is a better alternative to a ribbon, that can maintain signal strength. Or even, is there any way to boost signals in a circuit like this?


It was actually a 12" i tried. I was trying to make it work at like 3" but i really just suck with ribbon cable connectors. I've broken the pins of every connector i purchased. I wouldn't expect 8" to work either tho if it's unshielded.


----------



## Shoggy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Synomenon*
> 
> I just purchased an Aquaero 6 Pro. from Performance-PCs. Do you know if they're shipping the latest version of the A6 Pro.?
> 
> Also, what's the best way to display whatever I want on the A6 Pro.'s screen? I got one to use more for displaying system statistics and whatever else I want. I've seen mention of software called LCDHype on other sites, but is there anything better / easier for displaying other things on the A6? I'm on Windows 8.1 Pro. x64.


No idea what they have in stock.

The only way to get you own stuff onto the display is LCDhype. The necessary plug in files are in the the aquaerolcdhype.zip which is included in the installation folder of the aquasuite.


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> It was actually a 12" i tried. I was trying to make it work at like 3" but i really just suck with ribbon cable connectors. I've broken the pins of every connector i purchased. I wouldn't expect 8" to work either tho if it's unshielded.


You and I seem to be the only ones interested









Did you find the link to the premade shielded 3M ribbon ?


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> It was actually a 12" i tried. I was trying to make it work at like 3" but i really just suck with ribbon cable connectors. I've broken the pins of every connector i purchased. I wouldn't expect 8" to work either tho if it's unshielded.
> 
> 
> 
> You and I seem to be the only ones interested
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Did you find the link to the premade shielded 3M ribbon ?
Click to expand...

Actually, I have some interest in this as well, although perhaps more from the "is it technically feasible" perspective.

If it is, then there's a planned use for it in a future build.

TBH, I'm more suspect of pinout & connectivity" issues as to why the attempt was not successful than a real need for shielded ribbon cable.

Wonder if I could get Shoggy to send me a new version to do some testing / experimentation with . . . . .
















Darlene


----------



## Nornam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> You and I seem to be the only ones interested
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Did you find the link to the premade shielded 3M ribbon ?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Actually, I have some interest in this as well, although perhaps more from the "is it technically feasible" perspective.
> 
> If it is, then there's a planned use for it in a future build.
> 
> TBH, I'm more suspect of pinout & connectivity" issues as to why the attempt was not successful than a real need for shielded ribbon cable.
> 
> Darlene


I'd certainly be interested in this also & I suspect there will be several that would be as it opens up a whole new way to place the screen away from the unit itself







..... For one placing the screen at a side window for those that have no spare drive bays e.t.c.. Modders cutting a slot in the case for atheistic reasons...

Certainly think it would be a worth while thing for maybe AC to think about for the future for sure...Fingers crossed & all that







..

Nams.


----------



## Shoggy

This will never work with a longer cable on the aquaero 5 or 6. We already had a hard time to get away just a few centimeter for the airplex GIGANT radiators with integrated aquaero because there is not enough space available in the side panels to mount a complete unit so the display had to be detached. Also other users already tried that before and failed...


----------



## Nornam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> This will never work with a longer cable on the aquaero 5 or 6. We already had a hard time to get away just a few centimeter for the airplex GIGANT radiators with integrated aquaero because there is not enough space available in the side panels to mount a complete unit so the display had to be detached. Also other users already tried that before and failed...


Awww Bugger!!!... That's pissed on those fireworks then







..... That's a real shame to hear... Siigghhh!!!!

Nams.


----------



## kpoeticg

A few centimeters is still a decent amount of space in PC terms tho. 3.6cm is the length of a 360mm rad. Do you think there's any length that would work for an unshielded ribbon cable? My whole reason for wanting to do the mod was just mounting the display on the front of the drive bay and the pcb on the side of the drive cage since there would be a rad behind the display. A cpl centimeters would work.

Edit: I obviously derped the math on that, but you get my point


----------



## WiSK

Haha great maths derp









Few centimetres won't work for me, I was looking to put the two halves on either side of a radiator.

So, as I understand it, the only way would be to have circuitry that boosts the signal. I'm out of my depth, but I know that there are similar issues with pcie risers, and that they use custom pcbs to deal with it.


----------



## pathfindercod

I was all set to order a xt then found issues with this fitting in caselabs cases reported by users. Has this been fixed or addressed other than bending, filing and banging it in?

NEVERMIND! upon reading more I found it should be fixed by now by aquaero as it was acknowledged in January.

Ill be joining the club soon.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pathfindercod*
> 
> I was all set to order a xt then found issues with this fitting in caselabs cases reported by users. Has this been fixed or addressed other than bending, filing and banging it in?
> 
> NEVERMIND! upon reading more I found it should be fixed by now by aquaero as it was acknowledged in January.
> 
> Ill be joining the club soon.


Yes, it should be fixed or at least that was the last info I saw Shoggy post in the thread here in OCN. But notice too that Caselabs also make available a non conforming support fro the drive bay that make the Aquaero fit.

http://www.caselabs-store.com/flex-bay-5-25-device-mount-short-nonconforming/


----------



## Wolfsbora

If I take a picture of my unopened Aquaero 6XT box does that make me eligible?


----------



## riesscar

I keep seeing posts about a new revision of the aquaero 6 that fixes some defect, but I cannot seem to find the posts in which the problem was discussed. I own a AQ6 Pro with several accessories and would be interested to know what the issue is that is being corrected in the latest revision. It's not that the AQ6 has given me trouble, but I'll feel a bit cheated if I am not afforded a corrected version of the product just because I happened to give my patronage to the company before others.

Im getting ahead of myself: what is the issue that is fixed in the most recent revisions, which I read are shipping out now or something?

Thanks,

Carson


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *riesscar*
> 
> I keep seeing posts about a new revision of the aquaero 6 that fixes some defect, but I cannot seem to find the posts in which the problem was discussed. I own a AQ6 Pro with several accessories and would be interested to know what the issue is that is being corrected in the latest revision. It's not that the AQ6 has given me trouble, but I'll feel a bit cheated if I am not afforded a corrected version of the product just because I happened to give my patronage to the company before others.
> 
> Im getting ahead of myself: what is the issue that is fixed in the most recent revisions, which I read are shipping out now or something?
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Carson


It is not a defect actually. Corsair fans and D5 Laing pumps have an odd implementation of PWM that are off specs. The new revision of the AQ6 allows a better control or to attain control of several corsair fans off one channel but does not do anything in regard to D5 PWM. It is not a defect of the AQ6 from my point of view...


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *riesscar*
> 
> I keep seeing posts about a new revision of the aquaero 6 that fixes some defect, but I cannot seem to find the posts in which the problem was discussed. I own a AQ6 Pro with several accessories and would be interested to know what the issue is that is being corrected in the latest revision. It's not that the AQ6 has given me trouble, but I'll feel a bit cheated if I am not afforded a corrected version of the product just because I happened to give my patronage to the company before others.
> 
> Im getting ahead of myself: what is the issue that is fixed in the most recent revisions, which I read are shipping out now or something?
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Carson


The revision in the Aquaero 6 was a change in resistors made in relation to an issue that only has to do with a well-known issue with PWM control of Corsair fans only.

Corsair's implementation of PWM on their fans made control of more than 4 of them from a single PWM header on a mobo (and also previous to the change, earlier releases of the AQ6) buggy to say the least. Once you tried to add more than 4 or so Corsair PWM fans to a splitter they would tend to revert to full speed. This was not the fault of any mobo header or splitter used or any PWM controller like the AQ6, but in how Corsair implemented PWM on their fans. The change Aquaero made was to address that issue only. It has nothing to do PWM control of other fans/pumps nor with voltage control of 3-pin fans, etc.

In simpler terms, if you are not going to be PWM controlling Corsair SP120 PWM fans with your Aquaero, it shouldn't really matter whether you have the newer version or not.

edit:
See here for how to tell if your AQ6 is the newer version or the original version.

And if for whatever reason you actually are trying to PWM control Corsair fans with the earlier version of the AQ6, Darlene (IT Diva) has figured out how you can remedy that issue yourself in posts earlier on this thread, either with a diode/resister you can wire up yourself or see if she'll let you get your hands on one of her _Double D's_







, 'Diva Dapter' PCBs.


----------



## riesscar

@Unicorn0hunter & @Gabrielmz:

Thanks for the info. I actually am famiar with this issue, as I have a PWM D5 that I was disappointed not to be able to control with my AQ6 -- at least not without implementing the resistor fix outlined by IT Diva -- as well as Corsair sp120s that are pwm controllable only up to a certain number on a peripherally powered pwm switch. I agree that the pwm signal issues with the sp fans is clearly the fault of Corsair, so not only is the AQ6 not defective, the company is generous to accommodate the faulty pwm signal of Corsais's fans. On the issue of D5 pumps not being pwm controllable, I'm not so sure I agree that this is not a defective feature of the AQ6. My MB CPU header can control my D5 PWM pump with no problem... so if the AQ6 cannot, then it is a shortcoming of the product. In other words, if it was an issue on the part of the pump, why can it be controlled via PWM off of the motherboard? This stands in contrast to the sp fan issue, which persists when attempting to split >5 fans onto any pwm controller.

Not enough of an issue for me to feel cheated... but my vote on culpability is Corsair issue = Corsair's fault / D5 issue = Aquaero issue. I will admit that I don't have the knowledge to make this assertion regarding the latter, but if I _had_ to vote







.

Thanks again guys,

Carson


----------



## Shoggy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *riesscar*
> 
> D5 issue = Aquaero issue


This problem is even more clear than the Corsair thing. The pumps PWM implementation is messed up since it is missing a so called pull-up circuit. You can read more about it here (starts above the linked PDF file).


----------



## pathfindercod

What do you recommend to hook up as many sp120 quiet fans per channel as I can?


----------



## riesscar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> This problem is even more clear than the Corsair thing. The pumps PWM implementation is messed up since it is missing a so called pull-up circuit. You can read more about it here (starts above the linked PDF file).


I stand corrected:thumb:! Thanks for the info.

Carson


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *riesscar*
> 
> I stand corrected:thumb:! Thanks for the info.
> 
> Carson


Yep, I known it is frustrating but it turns out Laing implementation of PWM in D5 pumps is at fault... Glad we help clarify.

cheers


----------



## riesscar

I notice that there is a new version of aqua suite available. Is there a change log or a list of new features/fixes? I have read posts on the German forum indicating that the new software version is buggy... is it worth updating? If so, do I need to do a complete uninstall of ver 1.3, or can I just install over my current software to maintain my settings?

Thanks,

Carson


----------



## riesscar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Mayhem, ozzy1925 and Nornam added.
> 
> If I missed anyone, let me know.
> 
> Darlene


I don't think I have been added: I've got a AQ6 pro, flow meter and more.

Thanks,

Carson


----------



## Shoggy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *riesscar*
> 
> I notice that there is a new version of aqua suite available. Is there a change log or a list of new features/fixes? I have read posts on the German forum indicating that the new software version is buggy... is it worth updating? If so, do I need to do a complete uninstall of ver 1.3, or can I just install over my current software to maintain my settings?


The current version is 2014 2.3 and you can install it over your current version. Just in case you encounter some strange problems I recommend to install it again but this time to select a full new installation. If there is still a problem please report it back to us and do not just think "ahh crap" and let it be as it is. All reports about problems in the forum and also some others via mail and phone were solved the same or next day with another update.

Short summary about the fixes:


Windows service runs much more reliable now and should not crash anymore when it receives faulty data from other programs
New auto start mechanism, we use the Windows task planer now which should work reliable on every system
The order how you start the aquasuite and tools for software sensors does not matter anymore
New software sensors will be mapped automatically into the aquasuite even if it is already running
Some minor displaying errors in the overview pages have been fixed
A weird bug that some users had with the fan settings in the aquaero 5/6 has been fixed
The way how different units are handled has been changed (might be faulty in some situations - let us know if you spot something)
Several smaller bug fixes that were able to cause a crash of the program
A problem that sometimes the desktop mode has not been refreshed is also fixed
There have been also further optimizations to lower the system load once again
Please note that due to the changes of the software sensor handling you have to reassign them after the update. Personally I recommend to have a look at HWiNFO which is free, gets updated quite often and offers tons of sensor values that can be used by the aquasuite.

As new stuff we have integrated an open source plugin system. It allows you to import and export any kind of data - mainly interesting for the coders here. The export plugins can export any data in the way you need it so for example this could be used for keyboards with a display. The import plugins can take every data through our Windows service so it can be used in the aquasuite. Imported temperature values can be also used as software sensors.

If you want to give it a try you can get the SDK here: https://github.com/aquacomputer/plugin_sdk

The SDK also comes with simple example demos. The demos are written in C# which can be used with Mircosoft Visual Studio 2012 and 2013.


----------



## mandrix

Aquasuite v2014-2.3 is working well for me. There is a several second delay for me when opening overview pages but otherwise functioning as it should. It seems the Aquacomputer service is more streamlined and uses less resources as well.









BTW I will just add that I use Aida64 Extreme to import software temperatures.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *riesscar*
> 
> I stand corrected:thumb:! Thanks for the info.
> 
> Carson
> 
> 
> 
> Yep, I known it is frustrating but it turns out Laing implementation of PWM in D5 pumps is at fault... Glad we help clarify.
> 
> cheers
Click to expand...

Just as a bit of additional info on the D5's non standard PWM implementation;

Unlike the other PWM devices used in PCs, fans and pumps that run at max speed when there is no PWM signal line connection, The D5 runs at 60% in the same situation.

To make that happen, it was necessary to change the normal pullup circuit on the PWM line, internally in the D5.

This was by design to effect the 60% speed when not connected, not exactly a simple fail on Laing's part.

Given what was available in PWM controllers at the time, it seems like a sensible trade off.

The Aquaero 6 wasn't even out when the PWM D5 came out, and since most mobos have an onboard pullup on the CPU header's PWM pin, even though the Intel standard does not require it, you could control the D5 from most mobos satisfactorily. . . . The mobo pullup is one of those "might be helpful, can't be hurtful" additions that went beyond the actual standard.

Somewhere down the road, as PWM becomes more and more mainstream, perhaps Aquasuite will just have a "tick box" to check for "D5 Pull-Up" and have the circuitry on board the A6, or just add pullup anyway, as it doesn't really have a negative impact being there if it wasn't actually needed.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *riesscar*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Mayhem, ozzy1925 and Nornam added.
> 
> If I missed anyone, let me know.
> 
> Darlene
> 
> 
> 
> I don't think I have been added: I've got a AQ6 pro, flow meter and more.
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Carson
Click to expand...

Added to the list,

Welcome aboard.

D.


----------



## pathfindercod

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pathfindercod*
> 
> What do you recommend to hook up as many sp120 quiet fans per channel as I can?


A splitter off of a splitter? I can't seem to find a 5-7-way splitter.. I have swifttech 8-way pam splitter that has the pam cable and data for power. Think these will work with the quaero?


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pathfindercod*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *pathfindercod*
> 
> What do you recommend to hook up as many sp120 quiet fans per channel as I can?
> 
> 
> 
> A splitter off of a splitter? I can't seem to find a 5-7-way splitter.. I have swifttech 8-way pam splitter that has the pam cable and data for power. Think these will work with the quaero?
Click to expand...

Do you have the PWM Corsair fans, or regular 3 pin versions?

D.


----------



## Shoggy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mandrix*
> 
> There is a several second delay for me when opening overview pages


Unfortunately a little downside caused by the optimizations. In an earlier release from the current version there was the problem that an overview page which is set to load automatically did not load correctly anymore on startup. Well, maybe we can speed it up again in some way but so far the generally better resources handling was more important to us


----------



## riesscar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> The current version is 2014 2.3 and you can install it over your current version. Just in case you encounter some strange problems I recommend to install it again but this time to select a full new installation. If there is still a problem please report it back to us and do not just think "ahh crap" and let it be as it is. All reports about problems in the forum and also some others via mail and phone were solved the same or next day with another update.
> 
> Short summary about the fixes:
> 
> 
> Windows service runs much more reliable now and should not crash anymore when it receives faulty data from other programs
> New auto start mechanism, we use the Windows task planer now which should work reliable on every system
> The order how you start the aquasuite and tools for software sensors does not matter anymore
> New software sensors will be mapped automatically into the aquasuite even if it is already running
> Some minor displaying errors in the overview pages have been fixed
> A weird bug that some users had with the fan settings in the aquaero 5/6 has been fixed
> The way how different units are handled has been changed (might be faulty in some situations - let us know if you spot something)
> Several smaller bug fixes that were able to cause a crash of the program
> A problem that sometimes the desktop mode has not been refreshed is also fixed
> There have been also further optimizations to lower the system load once again
> Please note that due to the changes of the software sensor handling you have to reassign them after the update. Personally I recommend to have a look at HWiNFO which is free, gets updated quite often and offers tons of sensor values that can be used by the aquasuite.
> 
> As new stuff we have integrated an open source plugin system. It allows you to import and export any kind of data - mainly interesting for the coders here. The export plugins can export any data in the way you need it so for example this could be used for keyboards with a display. The import plugins can take every data through our Windows service so it can be used in the aquasuite. Imported temperature values can be also used as software sensors.
> 
> If you want to give it a try you can get the SDK here: https://github.com/aquacomputer/plugin_sdk
> 
> The SDK also comes with simple example demos. The demos are written in C# which can be used with Mircosoft Visual Studio 2012 and 2013.


Thanks so much for your informative and quick response! I installed 2.3 last night and it is running without issue so far. It's interesting that you advise reassignment of the software sensors, as I didn't have to. I just installed over version1.3 and it worked as it had







.

I use Aida64, as it provides visually appealing on-screen monitoring, as well as the ability to output info to my Razer Deathstalker Ultimate keyboards LCD screen.

I find the idea of data exporting to be a good one. I'll play around with the SDK tonight!

Thanks again,

Carson


----------



## riesscar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pathfindercod*
> 
> A splitter off of a splitter? I can't seem to find a 5-7-way splitter.. I have swifttech 8-way pam splitter that has the pam cable and data for power. Think these will work with the quaero?


If you have pwm versions of the SP fans, you will not be able to connect more than 5 to your a Swiftech 8-way PWM splitter and still retain pwm control... they'll just fun at 100%. There are a number of workarounds ranging from electrically complex methods (such as those provided by IT Diva) to simple ones, such as using two splitters and only connecting 4 fans to each. The issue is well documented, so you'll get plenty of info off Google and here on OC.net







.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *riesscar*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *pathfindercod*
> 
> A splitter off of a splitter? I can't seem to find a 5-7-way splitter.. I have swifttech 8-way pam splitter that has the pam cable and data for power. Think these will work with the quaero?
> 
> 
> 
> If you have pwm versions of the SP fans, you will not be able to connect more than 5 to your a Swiftech 8-way PWM splitter and still retain pwm control... they'll just fun at 100%. There are a number of workarounds ranging from electrically complex methods (such as those provided by IT Diva) *to simple ones, such as using two splitters and only connecting 4 fans to each*. The issue is well documented, so you'll get plenty of info off Google and here on OC.net
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
Click to expand...

That doesn't help anything . . . .

The issue is not the splitters, it's about how many fans are ultimately connected to the PWM pin of any of the channels. . . . Particularly with the original units with 100 Ohm protective resistors on the PWM inputs.

On those units, you became increasingly unable to run the fans at lower speeds as you added more than the first 4 or 5. . . .

At 7 to 8, you pretty much have no ability to slow them down at all anymore.

On the newer units with 47 Ohm resistors, the number is significantly greater.

When I get an extra $200 for yet another A6, or Shoggy sends me a test sample, I'll document the actual number of Corsair fans that the new ones can control with proper results.

Darlene


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Unfortunately ever since Swiftech's rep @BramSLI1 was one of the first to post about the issue with Corsair PWM fans I've seen MANY people misunderstand what Bram said and then repeat claims that it was some sort of an issue that had to do with the Swiftech splitter. That's not the case. It's an issue with the Corsair fans that exists regardless of any particular splitter or PWM mobo header or PWM controller (unless you have a revised model AQ6). The fact that there's not many other PWM splitters besides the Swiftech one that is made to split a PWM signal to that many fans made many think it was a Swiftech problem, but the exact same issue exists no matter which one you might use. Swiftech was just one of the first to try to make people aware of the issue.


----------



## pathfindercod

Wish i researched a little more before buying these dang corsair fans. I might as well either choke up and buy more fans or since these are the quiet edition just let them run at full speed all the time. Unless I am reading this right about having a news aquaero and it "should" work with the switch splitter?

I could possibly reduce the push/pull to just push and reduce the about of fans to 11-13 or so.


----------



## ngzb

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> When I get an extra $200 for yet another A6, or Shoggy sends me a test sample, I'll document the actual number of Corsair fans that the new ones can control with proper results.
> 
> Darlene


That would be great , hope Shoggy send you a test sample


----------



## pathfindercod

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Do you have the PWM Corsair fans, or regular 3 pin versions?
> 
> D.


The 4 pin pwm version :/


----------



## riesscar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> That doesn't help anything . . . .
> 
> The issue is not the splitters, it's about how many fans are ultimately connected to the PWM pin of any of the channels. . . . Particularly with the original units with 100 Ohm protective resistors on the PWM inputs.
> 
> On those units, you became increasingly unable to run the fans at lower speeds as you added more than the first 4 or 5. . . .
> 
> At 7 to 8, you pretty much have no ability to slow them down at all anymore.
> 
> On the newer units with 47 Ohm resistors, the number is significantly greater.
> 
> When I get an extra $200 for yet another A6, or Shoggy sends me a test sample, I'll document the actual number of Corsair fans that the new ones can control with proper results.
> 
> Darlene


I meant that you can use 4 per splitter, and then use each splitter signal wire on a different pwm header on the AQ6.

-Carson


----------



## Lefik

I'm interested in an Aquaero, but I'm not sure if it will do what I need. I'm looking for an automated controller that will keep the majority of my fans turned off until a certain temperature is reached; like those SeaSonic PSUs with "Hybrid" mode. I want something I can stick in the back of my computer and forget about. Can the Aquaero 5 LT do that for me?


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lefik*
> 
> I'm interested in an Aquaero, but I'm not sure if it will do what I need. I'm looking for an automated controller that will keep the majority of my fans turned off until a certain temperature is reached; like those SeaSonic PSUs with "Hybrid" mode. I want something I can stick in the back of my computer and forget about. Can the Aquaero 5 LT do that for me?


Yes.


----------



## Lefik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> Yes.


Thanks


----------



## JLMS2010

I am controlling 13 Corsair PWM SP120 quiets. I'm using modmytopys splitters, 3 of them (4, 4 & 5). None of my fans work. If I plug in a fan directly to the fan controller the fan will work. It will not work through any of the the splitters. I'm going to see which version of 6XT I have when I get home. I didn't know there was a potential issue before getting this combination. I really didn't think to look.


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JLMS2010*
> 
> I am controlling 13 Corsair PWM SP120 quiets. I'm using modmytopys splitters, 3 of them (4, 4 & 5). None of my fans work. If I plug in a fan directly to the fan controller the fan will work. It will not work through any of the the splitters. I'm going to see which version of 6XT I have when I get home. I didn't know there was a potential issue before getting this combination. I really didn't think to look.


Each splitter on a separate AQ6 header?

I thought ModMyToys only makes 3 pin splitters.


----------



## kpoeticg

No they make 4Pin's too. Started selling em a few months ago. I have a few myself, although i drill the pcb's so i only get 1 rpm feedback



Figures i only took a pic of the first one i drilled. None of my other pcb's came out sloppy like that


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> I only took a pic of the one i drilled best. Most of my other pcb's came out sloppy like that too


----------



## JLMS2010

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> Each splitter on a separate AQ6 header?
> 
> I thought ModMyToys only makes 3 pin splitters.


Yes, I have 3 splitter, 1 on each channel. I have these and made 3 female to female pwm cables.

Fixed. I guess I had one too many drinks when putting the ends on. I put them on the wrong way.







All is working and I was able to adjust the fan speeds as well down to 20%.


----------



## kpoeticg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> I only took a pic of the one i drilled best. Most of my other pcb's came out sloppy like that too
Click to expand...

Lollll. I'd say it if they did. I was assembling my loop with a single 360 when i drilled the first one so I took a pic of it before it was tucked away. After i drilled the others, it didn't seem like something worth taking more pics of just cuz i did a cleaner job









Edit: Just to save face


----------



## nyck

Hello my name is Nick and i have an aquaero 6xt and an aquaero 5lt slave mode. Sorry for my english but don't is my language.
I have a problem, when i connect the pump laing ddc 3.2 plus 3 pin to the device at 100% of power run at 4000rpm and the flowmeter show me 185 l/hour, if I connect the pump to psu and connect only rpm cable to the aquaero the pump run at 4500rpm and the flowmeter show me 220 l/hour. my pump don't is a pwm pump but is a 3 pin pump. there is a problem with this pumps?


----------



## Gabrielzm

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nyck*
> 
> 
> 
> Hello my name is Nick and i have an aquaero 6xt and an aquaero 5lt slave mode. Sorry for my english but don't is my language.
> I have a problem, when i connect the pump laing ddc 3.2 plus 3 pin to the device at 100% of power run at 4000rpm and the flowmeter show me 185 l/hour, if I connect the pump to psu and connect only rpm cable to the aquaero the pump run at 4500rpm and the flowmeter show me 220 l/hour. my pump don't is a pwm pump but is a 3 pin pump. there is a problem with this pumps?






Go to the fan channel you connect the pump on the aquaero (either using the Aquasuite or the Aquaero itself) and make sure your channel is set up to be power controlled (go to fan and advance settings). Then make sure the fan channel is at maximum power.

hope it helps.


----------



## nyck

thank you but the fan channel is set to power controlled and the maximum power is set to 100% . Can be is a problem of psu that don't give me 12V the asus probe softwere show me 11,86V


----------



## nyck

Sorry , this is the overview page whe the pump is at 100%


----------



## nyck

thank you for the hope, this is the page setting of the pump, I do some error?


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nyck*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> thank you for the hope, this is the page setting of the pump, I do some error?


Your settings for the pump look correct.

But voltage shows 10,9V - please show the settings on the "controller" page for the pump.


----------



## nyck

I use a curve controller for the pump controlled by cpu core temp. but to show set 100% I used preset value controller.


----------



## nyck

And this is when the pump is connected to psu and only rpm cable is connected to the device.


----------



## WiSK

I have to admit, I don't understand it. All settings look correct.

Can you do a test? On the settings for Pompa, set maximum power to 12,2V. Then look at fan data, does voltage go up a little or stay at 10,9V?


----------



## nyck

In the aquasuite softwere in the fan output I can decrese the value (11,8v, 11,6v 11,4v, ecc) but i can not pass 12V.


----------



## WiSK

What happens to the actual voltage, when you decrease maximum power? Does it still show 10,9V in the fan data or does it decrease?

(If it was me, I would be trying to change all settings to see if I can make the voltage increase at all.)

Try at the controllers page, instead of preset 1, some other choices?


----------



## nyck

When i decrese the maximum power to 11V the actual voltage don't change, if go under 11v the actual voltage is similar to the maximum power.


----------



## WiSK

Try making a curve controller for the pump, and pull up all the points to 100%.

Try making a second and third "constant value" controller at 100% and moving the pump to those, does voltage change at all?


----------



## nyck

The first 4 outputs are connected to aquaero 6xt and the other are connected to aquaero 5 Lt ( slave mode).
Thank you.


----------



## WiSK

All those controllers are showing ~11V when preset is 100%









Did you try also curve controller? Put all the points to 100%


----------



## nyck

Sorry for the error. this is the curve controller.


----------



## IT Diva

You have to expect a little bit of voltage drop when using any controller, typically about a half a volt to 0.7V, below the PSU output voltage because of the internal loss in the silicon.

You'll always get a little more voltage / RPM when connected directly to the PSU.

500 RPM seems like rather a lot though . . . might want to check the cables for poor contact / crimps or too small a wire gage.

You could be getting some V drop there too.

Darlene


----------



## nyck

Ok thank you for the hope, tomorrow after my work, i try to connect the aquaero 6 to my psu ( cooler master 850W modular ) without the Y 4pin molex cable that i used to powered the aquaero 6 and the aquaero 5 lt.
good night to all.


----------



## mandrix

Darlene, why no signature for the club?


----------



## kpoeticg

We can't expect Darlene to do everything









Alot of clubs usually have a member offer to do it around the beginning from what i've seen. I agree we should have a sig tho. Is the club 'Official' yet? That might be why nobodies made a sig for it


----------



## VSG

I was testing out my new fans with the Aquaero and the first time I switched it back on since the last build got dismantled, an alarm started bleeping. It was then that I remembered I had set an alarm for coolant flow rate









Anyway now I have a question that hopefully someone can answer- how can I set a fan channel that was set to PWM control using aquasuite to voltage control? I had 3 channels on PWM and the 4th on voltage control and when I hooked up a bunch of 3-pin fans, only channel 4 was working. When connected to the first 3 channels, the fans weren't even powering on. I changed control mode to power and RPM but nothing. Everything worked fine with channel 4 though.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> I was testing out my new fans with the Aquaero and the first time I switched it back on since the last build got dismantled, an alarm started bleeping. It was then that I remembered I had set an alarm for coolant flow rate
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Anyway now I have a question that hopefully someone can answer- how can I set a fan channel that was set to PWM control using aquasuite to voltage control? I had 3 channels on PWM and the 4th on voltage control and when I hooked up a bunch of 3-pin fans, only channel 4 was working. When connected to the first 3 channels, the fans weren't even powering on. I changed control mode to power and RPM but nothing. Everything worked fine with channel 4 though.


Go to the fan option in the aquaero (aquasuite) menu and change the fan channels to power controlled not PWM. If you already did that (seems so from your post) then make sure the voltages are set to reasonable values (not zero). Might even try minimum and maximum values = 100% just to see if the fans start. If that does not solve perhaps click the "boost" square to start the fans spinning? If still does not solve perhaps try just one fan on the channel instead of several in chain just to check and troubleshoot?

Not sure about the other units but mine have the tendency to re-set values if I take the power chords off the PSU from the wall. The fans then start spinning at 100% instead of the 50% I have set up previously so that might be a shot too. Hope it helps...

EDIT - You can also try a full or partial reset of the Aquaero to factory defaults. It is described in the manual page 42-43.


----------



## VSG

I only have access to the unit, not aquasuite since I am rebuilding. I tried a single fan as well but nothing. I will try out the boost part but it shouldn't be a factor since everything is fine on Channel 4.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> I only have access to the unit, not aquasuite since I am rebuilding. I tried a single fan as well but nothing. I will try out the boost part but it shouldn't be a factor since everything is fine on Channel 4.


Try the reset thing then? Should work like out of the box and you can use the Aquaero menu to do it.


----------



## VSG

I think I will end up having to do that. Any chance you know exactly where it is in the menu options? Thanks!


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mandrix*
> 
> Darlene, why no signature for the club?


No one offered to make one up yet, I suppose is the main reason.

I don't know how to do it, nor have the time to figure it out.

I should think that now that we've hit the 100 page mark, (assuming the default 10 per page) we should ask about being anointed by the gods as * Official *.

Darlene


----------



## kpoeticg

I don't really know any OCN m/g-odz









But if anybody can get us "Official", here's a sig....

:clock: http://www.overclock.net/t/1474470/ocn-aquaero-owners-club]*The** Official OCN Aquaero Owners Club*[/URL] :clock:

If no "Official", just remove it

Edit: Only reason i put 'Official' there is cuz it's better than changing sigs once we are...

I added it to my sig without Official right now​


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> I think I will end up having to do that. Any chance you know exactly where it is in the menu options? Thanks!


Oh Boy, the reset to factory defaults (page 42 Manual) is only in the aquasuite...But there is the option on the device menu under profile management to do the factory defaults thing.


----------



## VSG

Yup, it worked. I will have a massive Aquaero/Diva 'Dapter/Corsair SP120 PWM post in a few minutes here.


----------



## Gabrielzm

^^Glad it worked


----------



## VSG

As promised, I had started testing the real issue I had: Corsair's PWM implementation on their SP120 fans. Warning, massive amount of pictures ahead. First up, the SP120 QE

Hooked directly to the Aquaero, at 50% PWM control:



Now connected to Channel 1 of the Swiftech 8 way PWM splitter, which is powered straight from the 1300G2:



Ok, that's close enough. Let's add in another fan:



We already start to see the effect of a non-standard PWM implementation. Darlene can explain this way better than I. So now with fan 3 added:



Fan 4:



Fan 5:



Getting bad now, what about 6 fans on the splitter?



Ouch! Now adding fan 7:



Full speed already, no control whatsoever possible. Finally, fan 8:



Nothing changes as expected. So can the Double D help out? I hooked up the splitter to the adapter and had the passthrough over to the Aquaero.



Now with all 8 channels filled, and at the same 50% PWM signal:



Darlene is a magician- or someone with a very good electrical engineering background. Personally I prefer the former. Control is back on, the only change being a lower RPM compared to when a single fan was hooked up directly. I can live with that, I don't imagine having to run full speed anyway. The QEs are pretty quiet (who would have thought!) so let's try out a bigger challenge- the Corsair SP120 HPE fans.

First up, a fan hooked directly to the Aquaero at 50% control:



Now the same fan hooked via the Swiftech splitter:



Identical for all intents. Let's add fan 2:



Sigh.. Why did you have to do this, Corsair? Oh that's right- proprietary implementation + making a controller that is the only thing to work with it = Profit









Fan 3 added:



Fan 4 added:



Now with fan 5:



and the dreaded 6th fan:



As expected, a massive jump with 6 fans on. A few users have reported having no control with 6 fans but I have a wee bit left as was the case with the QE fans. But now with fan 7:



As before, everything now runs at ~100% speed no matter what. Adding in the final 8th fan does nothing really different:



Does the 'Dapter help here too?



Yes, it does. As with the previous case, the RPMs are lowered a bit. That isn't an issue for me as I said before but I am curious as to why this is happening. Moving on, I hooked up both splitters to the adapter PCB and then to the AQ6:



No need to repeat the results here, it was the same as before. So I am confident the PCB will perform as intended with all channels occupied. In fact, this is so good that daisychaining also works. I hooked up 15 fans total (8 HPE, 7 QE) to the adapter and then to 1 channel on the AQ6 and it worked great. There is a caveat though- if I hooked up the 8 HPEs to 1 channel on the Swiftech splitter that housed 7 other QE fans, then there was no control available. If I daisychained it so that the QEs were hooked to the splitter that had the HPE fans, it was fine. Another point of curiosity but since I don't have any plans on having these different fans on the same channel, it does not affect me. Hopefully it will help others who want to try this.

Tl,dr.: Darlene's Diva 'Dapter works great.


----------



## Gabrielzm

^^ Great. Now please can you sell to me that adapter????


----------



## VSG

lol we should all persuade Darlene to make more of these and sell them to the early adopters of the AQ6 as well as those with other PWM controllers.


----------



## Synomenon

Any way to tell which revision of the AQ6 Pro. I have w/o opening the box?

I'm expecting a delivery of one today.


----------



## VSG

Afraid not, it should be the same SKU.


----------



## nyck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nyck*
> 
> 
> 
> Sorry for the error. this is the curve controller.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> You have to expect a little bit of voltage drop when using any controller, typically about a half a volt to 0.7V, below the PSU output voltage because of the internal loss in the silicon.
> 
> You'll always get a little more voltage / RPM when connected directly to the PSU.
> 
> 500 RPM seems like rather a lot though . . . might want to check the cables for poor contact / crimps or too small a wire gage.
> 
> You could be getting some V drop there too.
> 
> Darlene


Sorry but yesterday night i was angry for debacle of italy and i don't wan't open my pc. today i connect the aquaero 6 directly to psu and when i connect only the pump to the outputs device,the performance is 4132 rpm at 11,3v.



After this i try to connect all fan and in his configuration the voltage of the pump is 11,2v at 4030 rpm.


At last i am very happy if you want add my name at the list, i have an aquero 6 xt and an aquaero 5 lt.


----------



## Synomenon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Synomenon*
> 
> Any way to tell which revision of the AQ6 Pro. I have w/o opening the box?
> 
> I'm expecting a delivery of one today.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Afraid not, it should be the same SKU.


Bummer. Anyone AquaComputer employees here that can verify?


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Synomenon*
> 
> Bummer. Anyone AquaComputer employees here that can verify?


Shoggy did already say it. That's how Geggeg knows









http://www.overclock.net/t/1474470/ocn-aquaero-owners-club/440#post_22151318


----------



## Synomenon

Ah, thanks for the info.. I hope PPCs can swap mine out if it is an older revision.


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Synomenon*
> 
> Ah, thanks for the info.. I hope PPCs can swap mine out if it is an older revision.


They themselves won't be able to tell without opening the box and a sticker on the unit, no way they or anyone else will do that.


----------



## Synomenon

So if I get an older revision, I'm stuck with it?


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Synomenon*
> 
> So if I get an older revision, I'm stuck with it?


Do you already have >4 SP120 PWM fans or a D5 PWM pump?


----------



## Synomenon

I have six PWM SP120s (two high performance editions and four quiet editions) and one AF140.


----------



## VSG

You can hook up the two HPE to your CPU_FAN or CPU_OPT header and then have the 4 QE to the Aquaero. As you can see in my post previously, having 4 fans still provides plenty of control.


----------



## IT Diva

The reason you have a slightly lower rpm with the 'Dapter, which is also why it works with lots of fans at once, is because it pulls the off-time portion of the pulse closer to 0V, even under heavy load, than the A6 does with even a light load.

The off-time portion of the pulse, adds proportionally more to the on-time, the higher above 0V it is.

Since the 'Dapter pulls down so close to 0V, the effective on-time is less than the A6 by itself for the same pulse width.

Darlene


----------



## VSG

Ah, that explains it. Thanks a lot, Darlene. So when are you getting an artisan account and making these in bulk for people to buy?









Did you see the part about daisychaining in my post? Any thoughts about it?


----------



## Shoggy

@geggeg - You know that you can take screenshots of the display with the aquasuite (information pages -> screenshot)?


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Synomenon*
> 
> So if I get an older revision, I'm stuck with it?


I almost bet you'll get the new revision, it's been some months since they made the change.

But if you do, come back here and let's see if we can figure out some solution.


----------



## Synomenon

Sorry, dp.


----------



## Synomenon

Besides getting the Aquaero in and plugging my fans in, how do I know it's a new revision? I haven't had time today to open up my PC and put the Aquaero in yet.

Also, I'm OCD when it comes to cosmetic / aesthetic defects on things and the AQ6 Pro. I got has two noticeable scratches on the front (on the metal, not on the screen).

Found this post:
http://www.overclock.net/t/1474470/ocn-aquaero-owners-club/800_100#post_22428715

Those four resistors on my AQ6 Pro. (circled in red in the picture) say "01A" on all four.

Edit:
Well, crap. Just checked this calculator:
http://www.hobby-hour.com/electronics/smdcalc.php

and entered 01A. It shows 100 ohms. I got an original release unit.


----------



## WiSK

That's annoying, I was sure you would get a new one









I'm not very knowledgeable compared to Darlene, but I can try to help a bit. First can you tell me exactly how many fans and pumps, apart from the 6 Corsair fans, that you are planning to run? What kind of splitter did you buy?


----------



## Jeronbernal

Would you guys recommend the mps400? I'm looking to add extra thermal sensors and a different flow meter due to my bits power flow meter being pointless lol

And from what I've read it seems the mps400 does temp and flow.

What do you guys think?

ps. Add me to the list with a aquaero 5 lt










Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## Synomenon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> That's annoying, I was sure you would get a new one
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm not very knowledgeable compared to Darlene, but I can try to help a bit. First can you tell me exactly how many fans and pumps, apart from the 6 Corsair fans, that you are planning to run? What kind of splitter did you buy?


I'm moving stuff from an old build into a new build so I get choices on what to use. I haven't bought all the parts yet, but will be using the Corsair PWM SPs from my old build. I don't have the pump(s) yet nor do I have any new splitters. I can wait and will try to get a replacement AQ6 Pro. from PPCs. I hate spending this much on a non-essential part and not getting the latest revision, especially in this case when I know that the one I received won't work properly with my fans.


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Synomenon*
> 
> I'm moving stuff from an old build into a new build so I get choices on what to use. I haven't bought all the parts yet, but will be using the Corsair PWM SPs from my old build. I don't have the pump(s) yet nor do I have any new splitters. I can wait and will try to get a replacement AQ6 Pro. from PPCs. I hate spending this much on a non-essential part and not getting the latest revision, especially in this case when I know that the one I received won't work properly with my fans.


I would hate it too, and it doesn't help to mention that the warning has been written in the first post of this thread since April, but I must. If you direct hate anywhere, it should be to Corsair for the propriatory PWM implementation. In my eyes it's a sneaky way to ensure people use their Corsair Link system instead of alternatives. Aquacomputer reacted quickly to help the issue, but they can't take the financial hit to recall all initial units just because of a Corsair issue, when not even all customers are using such fans. You can try at PPCs if they will send you another, but as was stated, there's no way to be sure of getting a new one unless you would order direct from AC.

Having said that, there's still a chance you can run all six fans. If there's any way to have the fans split over two headers, 3 fans on each, then there's no problem. That's why I asked how many fans and pumps total.

Oh, and about the scratch on the faceplate - is the scratch gone through the protective plastic? That can be a good reason to exchange the part at PPCs.


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jeronbernal*
> 
> Would you guys recommend the mps400? I'm looking to add extra thermal sensors and a different flow meter due to my bits power flow meter being pointless lol
> 
> And from what I've read it seems the mps400 does temp and flow.
> 
> What do you guys think?
> 
> ps. Add me to the list with a aquaero 5 lt
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


The mps 400 is a great device if you configure it properly. It takes a bit more setup than the simple mechanical meters and the temp sensor function is not all that great. The actual sensor is a fair distance from the water flow so it's accuracy is less than ideal and latency high. A separate conventional water sensor would be better.


----------



## madcratebuilder

This review graphs the temp errors on the MPS 400.

I'm using a "High flow" for simplicity. The "High flow" uses a impeller and hall effect, the MPS 400 is pressure differential and may offer more flow restriction.


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> @geggeg - You know that you can take screenshots of the display with the aquasuite (information pages -> screenshot)?


I don't have a working pc at the moment, it is being rebuilt/expanded as seen in my build log linked in my sig. So I could only use the AQ6 unit by itself and my camera


----------



## Eddie Smurphy

Hi all,

I've got a quick question on the Aquaero 6:

I first wanted to power my 3-pin fans with a CW611, however found out that my fans tend to click when powered by a fake PWM signal.

Now since the Aquaero 6 can run so many devices at low speeds simultaneously without generating a lot of heat, I started to wonder if it also just generates a fake PWM signal to regulate the speeds. Is this true, or can I go ahead and get one without having to worry that my fans will be clicking?

I will be powering 26 2.4W fans at low speeds , so heat on the voltage regulators should theoretically be pretty high... I'm not sure if I'd also have to get the cooling plate for it.


----------



## WiSK

Hi Eddie - Aquaero 6 does "real" PWM and real DC voltage regulation on all four channels. For your 3-pin fans you can use the voltage regulation mode.


----------



## Jakusonfire

The way that the CW611 and the Aquaero reduce voltage for DC fans isn't much different, certainly not on the output anyway. Some of the cheap lamptrons use a type of PWM that could be blamed for fan motor noise but not the CW ... it outputs a nice steady voltage just like the Aquaero.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *madcratebuilder*
> 
> This review graphs the temp errors on the MPS 400.
> 
> I'm using a "High flow" for simplicity. The "High flow" uses a impeller and hall effect, the MPS 400 is pressure differential and may offer more flow restriction.


Actually the other way around in my understanding. The mechanical high flow meter should present more restriction that the mps 400 that have no moving part. It is a great device if you calibrate it first (the MPS 400).


----------



## Jeronbernal

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Actually the other way around in my understanding. The mechanical high flow meter should present more restriction that the mps 400 that have no moving part. It is a great device if you calibrate it first (the MPS 400).


How would you go about calibrating it?


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jeronbernal*
> 
> How would you go about calibrating it?


I would calibrate manually using a bucket and a clock. In fact I am planning to use it in my next build and would probably assemble rads, reservoir, blocks outside the case and use the bucket and clock to measure the realized flow at let's say 30%, 60% and 100% pump power to calibrate. You can read something about it here:

http://www.xtremerigs.net/2013/04/30/aquacomputer-mps-400-flow-sensor/


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> I would calibrate manually using a bucket and a clock. Inf act I am planning to use it in my next build and would probably assemble rads, reservoir, blocks outside the case and use the bucket and clock to measure the realized flow at let's say 30%, 60% and 100% pump power to calibrate. You can read something about it here:
> 
> http://www.xtremerigs.net/2013/04/30/aquacomputer-mps-400-flow-sensor/


Also this might interest you. Fast_fate is doing some tests in flow readers and restriction these last two weeks (and I have been doing some testing too) . We posted our results in his build log:

http://www.overclock.net/t/1470432/build-log-salive8-caselabs-s8/280

Ops sorry for double post...It was meant as an edit to my previous post...


----------



## Jeronbernal

what would be a pretty good calibrated aquacomputer flow meter out of the box? that and what would you suggest using for temp meters? i have a bitspower probe, and a phobya inline but if its better to us AC parts i can order some


----------



## Gabrielzm

Take a look at my previous post and fast_fate build log. We have been testing both AC high flow meters there. I found my USB AC flow meter well calibrated but with some restriction. But I am not fully satisfied with the methodology I am using. fast_fate found his non USB version of the AC flow meter not very well calibrated and with more restriction that mine unit. That said I have been using the flow meter (USB version) for months and my system was still capable of doing 1.5 GPM with two d5 pumps. So there is some restriction but less that a cpu block for example. You can also read another test done by Martin on the AC flow meter (non-usb version):

http://martinsliquidlab.org/2012/01/21/aquacomputer-water-high-flow-sensor-meter/

hope it helps.


----------



## Jeronbernal

ahh that does help, you personally would you recommend the USB version over non USB? i have no more USB ports on my PC @[email protected]

so with that one that martin has, im guessing you plug one end of a double 3 pin fan plug in the flow meter, and the other into the aquaero?


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jeronbernal*
> 
> ahh that does help, you personally would you recommend the USB version over non USB? i have no more USB ports on my PC @[email protected]
> 
> so with that one that martin has, im guessing you plug one end of a double 3 pin fan plug in the flow meter, and the other into the aquaero?


If you're short on USB connections, this NZXT expander is pretty sweet.

I have one on my tech bench, since the quadfire cards block access to most of the mobo usb's.

I have both of the 6XT's plugged up to it.

Darlene


----------



## Jeronbernal

Just might do that, thank you

Is there a significant difference between the USB and non usb?


----------



## MasterJ

Hi Darlene,
I have a aquaero 6 pro.
I want to join.

Thank you.


----------



## kpoeticg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jeronbernal*
> 
> Just might do that, thank you
> 
> Is there a significant difference between the USB and non usb?


The USB version can run without an Aquaero and it can also be hooked up to a High-Speed Aquabus port. The non-USB can only be hooked up to the flow port

If you're only ever gonna buy 1, i'd just get the non-usb. If you wanna use a 2nd tho, you should get at least one of em USB since there's only one flow port. I'm pretty sure the actual internals of them are the same flowmeter


----------



## VSG

Ya, they are the same internally. Shoggy told me to get a USB flow meter and hook it up with an aquabus cable to the aquabus port since I wanted two flowmeters for two loops total. I will soon have both the usb and non-usb variant.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MasterJ*
> 
> Hi Darlene,
> I have a aquaero 6 pro.
> I want to join.
> 
> Thank you.
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Added . . . .

The PWM version of the DDC pump, which would be the 35X, doesn't need any additional circuitry to be controlled from the A6.

The little bits to add the 5V pullup for the PWM D5 are NOT required for the 35X, as the 35X has internal pullup to 5V on the PWM line.

If you have 35X pump(s) that are not working correctly, it's in your configuration/setup.

Also there are no plans at this time to produce the Diva 'Dapters, as they take too much time for what I could realistically sell them for.

Darlene


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jeronbernal*
> 
> ahh that does help, you personally would you recommend the USB version over non USB? i have no more USB ports on my PC @[email protected]
> 
> so with that one that martin has, im guessing you plug one end of a double 3 pin fan plug in the flow meter, and the other into the aquaero?


I have both and the USB version have internal temp probe while the non usb version does not have. My usb one from my testings seems pretty accurate while fast_fate found his non-usb version off mark to some extent. In any case both can be calibrated too. I would prefer the USB version but that is just me.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> If you're short on USB connections, this NZXT expander is pretty sweet.
> 
> I have one on my tech bench, since the quadfire cards block access to most of the mobo usb's.
> 
> I have both of the 6XT's plugged up to it.
> 
> Darlene


Sweet. I like that. Thks. BTW can you add me to the club too? Aquaero 6 XT here.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jeronbernal*
> 
> Just might do that, thank you
> 
> Is there a significant difference between the USB and non usb?


The major difference is the fact that usb version does not require the Aquaero to get the readins and also have internal temperature sensor and the possibility of an external probe too. The non-usb version does not have temp probes and goes directly to Aquaero. Internally they are the same digimesa flow meter.


----------



## MasterJ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Added . . . .
> 
> The PWM version of the DDC pump, which would be the 35X, doesn't need any additional circuitry to be controlled from the A6.
> 
> The little bits to add the 5V pullup for the PWM D5 are NOT required for the 35X, as the 35X has internal pullup to 5V on the PWM line.
> 
> If you have 35X pump(s) that are not working correctly, it's in your configuration/setup.
> 
> Also there are no plans at this time to produce the Diva 'Dapters, as they take too much time for what I could realistically sell them for.
> 
> Darlene


Setup pwm ddc from panel then rpm number changed but ddc not really work.
Setup from aquasuite rpm number no changed and ddc not work.
I don't understand what's wrong?

Thank you.


----------



## ozzy1925

guys, i need some help about hooking devices


i am planning to run 2 xd5 usb and 1x flow sensor with aq6 xt
and i have
3xAquabus rpm cable Product No.:93111

2x Aquabus y cable Product No.:53124

1x Cable for flow sensor Product No.:53027

3x Aquabus cable 4 pins Product No.:53122

I did the installation:
Can you tell from the picture if i am doing ok?
1 x4pin usb cable goes to motherboard usb and usb out on the aquaero device
1xaquabus y cable goes to aquabus high on the aquaero device
2x rpm cables goes to seperate aquabus outs on the pumps
1xflow cable for sensor goes to flow on the aquaero device and to the sensor (shoggy will send me new sensor parts but still the head of the flow sensor cable looks it like it wont fit to the socket)Did i buy the wrong cable?


----------



## Synomenon

Ok, so PPCs approved my RMA request. Anyone know a company in the USA that I will definitely get a new revision AQ6 Pro. from if I ordered now?


----------



## Shoggy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ozzy1925*
> 
> Can you tell from the picture if i am doing ok?
> 1 x4pin usb cable goes to motherboard usb and usb out on the aquaero device
> 1xaquabus y cable goes to aquabus high on the aquaero device
> 2x rpm cables goes to seperate aquabus outs on the pumps
> 1xflow cable for sensor goes to flow on the aquaero device and to the sensor (shoggy will send me new sensor parts but still the head of the flow sensor cable looks it like it wont fit to the socket)Did i buy the wrong cable?


That is OK but make sure that you change the aquabus ID number of one pump so they do not use the same. This can be only done when it is connected via USB. The ID can be changed in the system tab of the pump.

The flow cable is fine. It looks strange because as you already know your sensor has the wrong case. The pins would normally stick out and provide enough space for the large connector.


----------



## ozzy1925

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> That is OK but make sure that you change the aquabus ID number of one pump so they do not use the same. This can be only done when it is connected via USB. The ID can be changed in the system tab of the pump.
> 
> The flow cable is fine. It looks strange because as you already know your sensor has the wrong case. The pins would normally stick out and provide enough space for the large connector.


thanks shoggy!


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Synomenon*
> 
> Ok, so PPCs approved my RMA request. Anyone know a company in the USA that I will definitely get a new revision AQ6 Pro. from if I ordered now?


Nobody can be sure, because it's not marked on the box, and companies may organise their stock in various ways. There might be some older ones at the back of the shelf, and it's just your luck that the day you order, this is the one that's going to be pulled.

1. Aquacomputer themselves currently have no stock at all of their own product. Which means if you order from them, it will certainly be a new revision. However, their shop says "Article is in production - Estimated lead time 30 days". If you can wait, and the shipping from Germany is not too bad, then this is the best option.

2. According to Costas, he got a new revision back in May from FrozenCPU http://www.overclock.net/t/1474470/ocn-aquaero-owners-club/600#post_22263557
There are 2 in stock right now http://www.frozencpu.com/products/17839/bus-335/Aquacomputer_Aquaero_6_PRO_USB_Fan_Controller_Graphic_LCD_Liquid_System_Controller_53145.html
But of course you risk that, from the two they have in stock, those are the old revision sitting at the back of the shelf. You can maybe email FrozenCPU and ask on what date they received those, and when they expect next shipment.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MasterJ*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Added . . . .
> 
> The PWM version of the DDC pump, which would be the 35X, doesn't need any additional circuitry to be controlled from the A6.
> 
> The little bits to add the 5V pullup for the PWM D5 are NOT required for the 35X, as the 35X has internal pullup to 5V on the PWM line.
> 
> If you have 35X pump(s) that are not working correctly, it's in your configuration/setup.
> 
> Also there are no plans at this time to produce the Diva 'Dapters, as they take too much time for what I could realistically sell them for.
> 
> Darlene
> 
> 
> 
> Setup pwm ddc from panel then rpm number changed but ddc not really work.
> Setup from aquasuite rpm number no changed and ddc not work.
> I don't understand what's wrong?
> 
> Thank you.
Click to expand...

Have you got a pic of the pump . . . .

Maybe you're saying PWM DDC, which means 35X, but it's not actually a DDC pump, but something else that's designed for PWM control.

iirc, EK has several PWM pumps that look like blocks, rather like Phobya's or jingways.

D.


----------



## MasterJ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Have you got a pic of the pump . . . .
> 
> Maybe you're saying PWM DDC, which means 35X, but it's not actually a DDC pump, but something else that's designed for PWM control.
> 
> iirc, EK has several PWM pumps that look like blocks, rather like Phobya's or jingways.
> 
> D.


Here is my ddc picture before installation.


----------



## nyck

Hi guys i have a curiosity, before buy my aquaero 6 i read some manual and in this http://forum.aquacomputer.de/images-ac/aquaero_5_eng.pdf in the temperature sensor section i read that a DIGITAL TEMPERATURE/HUMIDITY sensor can be connected to the aquaero LS aquabus channel.This is for the aquaero 5 but i think it's same thing for the aquaero 6. What are the compatible sensors? I have 2 digial temperature sensor of an old T Balancer big NG that i don't use. I can use this sensor?


----------



## kpoeticg

I really don't know about the T-Balancer sensors specifically. If they're 10k sensors then there's a good chance they'll work. Also not sure about any humidity sensors

The Aquaero comes with 4 air sensors in the box. I use THESE for water sensors personally and am very happy with them



Aquacomputer also makes water temp sensors if you'd rather buy them. You don't hook up the temp sensors to Aquabus tho. There's 8 2-Pin temp sensor headers on the Aquaero. You can connect air and water sensors to any of them


----------



## nyck

Yes i use ten temperature sensor 8 for air ( that was inclused with aquaero 6 and with aquero 5lt) and 2 xspc sensor for in and out water temperature. The my was just a curiosity, then these sensors have 4 pin


----------



## Newtocooling

I have been having a wierd problem with Aquasuite. It will load when my system starts but I can't see it on the desktop when I move the mouse over the task bar icon it will show the frame of aquasuite on my desktop but not the program itself. I know it's working because my fan curves are still being used, fans are quite when web browsing and speed up when I game. I did upgrade to the 2014 version and I'm still having the same problem. Is it the 780ti sli setup, corsarlink, or Asus Suite that are causing the display issue? Any help would be appreciated.


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Newtocooling*
> 
> I have been having a wierd problem with Aquasuite. It will load when my system starts but I can't see it on the desktop when I move the mouse over the task bar icon it will show the frame of aquasuite on my desktop but not the program itself. *I know it's working because my fan curves are still being used*, fans are quite when web browsing and speed up when I game. I did upgrade to the 2014 version and I'm still having the same problem. Is it the 780ti sli setup, corsarlink, or Asus Suite that are causing the display issue? Any help would be appreciated.


Not sure about the task bar icon issue, but just FYI it's the Aquaero itself that controls the fans, not the Aquasuite software.


----------



## Newtocooling

Ok that's good at least my Aquaero is fine, I just wish Aquasuite would run with less problems so if I wanted I could change my fan curves if needed. My Aquaero itself does still display all my fan speeds, flow rate, and temps, but Aquasuite is another story. Does Aquasuite have trouble with an SLI setup? I'm running just one monitor at 1440p


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Newtocooling*
> 
> Ok that's good at least my Aquaero is fine, I just wish Aquasuite would run with less problems so if I wanted I could change my fan curves if needed. My Aquaero itself does still display all my fan speeds, flow rate, and temps, but Aquasuite is another story. Does Aquasuite have trouble with an SLI setup? I'm running just one monitor at 1440p


Can you show a screenshot of the issue?


----------



## Newtocooling

Sure when i get home from work today, I'll take one and upload it.


----------



## Synomenon

FrozenCPU got back to me and all of their in-stock AQ6 Pro.'s have 100 and 101 ohm resistors. All first revision.









I guess I'll have to order from Aquatuning to get the latest revision.


----------



## Wolfsbora

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Synomenon*
> 
> FrozenCPU got back to me and all of their in-stock AQ6 Pro.'s have 100 and 101 ohm resistors. All first revision.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I guess I'll have to order from Aquatuning to get the latest revision.


I just received an order from Aqua Tuning yesterday. They were the only ones with the black faceplate and DDC adapter cables. Shipped and received fast!! Even came with Aqua Tuning gummy bears haha.


----------



## Newtocooling

Here is what my Aquasuite looks like when I try to get into it


----------



## valvehead

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Newtocooling*
> 
> Here is what my Aquasuite looks like when I try to get into it


It looks like the window is there, but it may be positioned offscreen somewhere.

Try this.


----------



## Wolfsbora

Well, I went to install the black faceplate on my 6 XT and it appears to have not been too carefully machined. The thin bottom bar is not only bowed downward but the "made in germany" is also crooked with the text cut off at the bottom. Also, the white on all of the text is not exactly consistent. Pretty disappointed. I paid $20 just to have this and 3 other small Aquaero parts shipped from Aqua Tuning. Any suggestions at to how to get this replaced?

Edit: After further inspection, it looks like it isn't bent, it is actually cut that way and the "aquacomputer" text is cut off as well.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quick question: I Have two d5 USB pumps connected to Aquaero via aquabus (one is also connected via USB). Is there a way to read the actual rpm of the pump? Both are running at 100% but if I use the Aquaero tacho (connected to the cpu_fan header) I got readings around 3500 rpm and if I connect the pump (via tacho to fan header) I got 2700 rpm. I though that Aquaero would have an option to show the rpm but could not find anywhere. Anyone?

cheers


----------



## Shoggy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Newtocooling*
> 
> I have been having a wierd problem with Aquasuite. It will load when my system starts but I can't see it on the desktop when I move the mouse over the task bar icon it will show the frame of aquasuite on my desktop but not the program itself. I know it's working because my fan curves are still being used, fans are quite when web browsing and speed up when I game. I did upgrade to the 2014 version and I'm still having the same problem. Is it the 780ti sli setup, corsarlink, or Asus Suite that are causing the display issue? Any help would be appreciated.


In the folder C:\ProgramData\aquasuite-data (might be hidden) you will find a file called aquasuite.xml. Open it with an editor and play around with these two values:

Code:



Code:


<windowPosX>
<windowPosY>

Maybe your aquasuite window gets rendered to an invisible area at the moment.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wolfsbora*
> 
> Any suggestions at to how to get this replaced?


Please check your PMs. I already replied there.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Quick question: I Have two d5 USB pumps connected to Aquaero via aquabus (one is also connected via USB). Is there a way to read the actual rpm of the pump? Both are running at 100% but if I use the Aquaero tacho (connected to the cpu_fan header) I got readings around 3500 rpm and if I connect the pump (via tacho to fan header) I got 2700 rpm. I though that Aquaero would have an option to show the rpm but could not find anywhere. Anyone?


When connected to the aquaero via aquabus you should see the rpm in the tab "pumps". It should be also visible in the controller tab on the right side where you have assigned the pump as output.


----------



## Newtocooling

Thanks Shoggy I will give that a try if I have the problem again. I just ended up uninstalling Aquasuite and the reinstall seemed to fix my problem at the moment. All is running perfect!


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> In the folder C:\ProgramData\aquasuite-data (might be hidden) you will find a file called aquasuite.xml. Open it with an editor and play around with these two values:
> 
> Code:
> 
> 
> 
> Code:
> 
> 
> <windowPosX>
> <windowPosY>
> 
> Maybe your aquasuite window gets rendered to an invisible area at the moment.
> Please check your PMs. I already replied there.
> When connected to the aquaero via aquabus you should see the rpm in the tab "pumps". It should be also visible in the controller tab on the right side where you have assigned the pump as output.


Yep I can see that but it only says 100 % rpm not the actual rpm values... At least not in Aquasuite. Any way to actual read the rpm (I suppose it should be close to 4500 rpm).


----------



## valvehead

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Yep I can see that but it only says 100 % rpm not the actual rpm values... At least not in Aquasuite. Any way to actual read the rpm (I suppose it should be close to 4500 rpm).


IIRC you can only get the actual RPM value from USB connection on the pump. I'm not at home right now, so I can't verify.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *valvehead*
> 
> IIRC you can only get the actual RPM value from USB connection on the pump. I'm not at home right now, so I can't verify.


Ah..I think I found under the USB connection on the alarm configuration. The speed signal is been reported there. Thanks


----------



## fast_fate

The penny finally dropped,
I did raw flow rates on timed pump output runs and averaged them for the pump flow rate.
It was this flow rate that I calibrated the Aquaero to








At the time not bothering to think that this raw flow rate has no restriction what so ever.
Even in my short ultra low restriction loop there would be some restriction,
so my Aquaero flow sensor was not reading the correct flow rate ever because I calibrated it incorrectly.

*So because my flow rates were reading higher (wrongly calibrated flow meter) the pressure was reading lower (incorrectly)*

Which leads me to the question (which I'll post in the Aquaero club also) copy 'n paste of my post in the Watercooling Club

How do people calibrate their Aquaero Flow Sensors ?s
I doubt most people have "proper" flow meters they can reference to for calibration purposes (not me yet







)

I do have Differential Pressure gauges though








One which is extremely accurate ans sesitive in the 0 - 1.45 psi range.

So to calibrate my Aquaero flow sensor - does the following make sense to you guys
















If I can locate a couple of different flow Vs pressure curves for any piece of hardware (that I have access to) which have curves very similar or hopefully identical (confirming the data)








and
If I adjust / restrict my flow using the tap to get the Differential Pressure to match a know (and confirmed) pressure point somewhere on the curve.
Then my thinking says that I can then calibrate the Aquaero Flow Sensor to match the flow rate from the confirmed hardware curves.

My thinking is that tubing size or any other variables done in the confirmed curves and my test set -up won't matter,
because it is a single point on a chart that is a reference point I'm using, not the curve in entirety where variables would make differences.

Does that make any sense.
Or have I again overlooked something basic and stupid


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fast_fate*
> 
> The penny finally dropped,
> I did raw flow rates on timed pump output runs and averaged them for the pump flow rate.
> It was this flow rate that I calibrated the Aquaero to
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At the time not bothering to think that this raw flow rate has no restriction what so ever.
> Even in my short ultra low restriction loop there would be some restriction,
> so my Aquaero flow sensor was not reading the correct flow rate ever because I calibrated it incorrectly.
> 
> *So because my flow rates were reading higher (wrongly calibrated flow meter) the pressure was reading lower (incorrectly)*
> 
> Which leads me to the question (which I'll post in the Aquaero club also) copy 'n paste of my post in the Watercooling Club
> 
> How do people calibrate their Aquaero Flow Sensors ?s
> I doubt most people have "proper" flow meters they can reference to for calibration purposes (not me yet
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )
> 
> I do have Differential Pressure gauges though
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> One which is extremely accurate ans sesitive in the 0 - 1.45 psi range.
> 
> So to calibrate my Aquaero flow sensor - does the following make sense to you guys
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If I can locate a couple of different flow Vs pressure curves for any piece of hardware (that I have access to) which have curves very similar or hopefully identical (confirming the data)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and
> If I adjust / restrict my flow using the tap to get the Differential Pressure to match a know (and confirmed) pressure point somewhere on the curve.
> Then my thinking says that I can then calibrate the Aquaero Flow Sensor to match the flow rate from the confirmed hardware curves.
> 
> My thinking is that tubing size or any other variables done in the confirmed curves and my test set -up won't matter,
> because it is a single point on a chart that is a reference point I'm using, not the curve in entirety where variables would make differences.
> 
> Does that make any sense.
> Or have I again overlooked something basic and stupid


I think you are over complicating this why dont you just set it up with a know amout of water like from a reservoir and then time it with a start watch to know the L/Minute then calibrate it according to your findings here you do not have to have the flow sensor in your loop to do this or even have your computer powered us as long as the AQ6 is power up... to me this is the easies way if you want it to be just about 100% correct!


----------



## Wolfsbora

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> Please check your PMs. I already replied there.


I just need to mention how awesome Shoggy is, he has offered to ship out a replacement black faceplate to me at no charge. 99.9% of members and reps on this site genuinely want to be helpful. It is rare to see that on any media.


----------



## fast_fate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> I think you are over complicating this why dont you just set it up with a know amout of water like from a reservoir and then time it with a start watch to know the L/Minute then calibrate it according to your findings here you do not have to have the flow sensor in your loop to do this or even have your computer powered us as long as the AQ6 is power up... to me this is the easies way if you want it to be just about 100% correct!


I admit may be over complicating it,
But if you re-read the first part of my previous post - the timed runs with known fluid volumes are against zero restriction.
I have done this countless dozens of time recently and have a very good average of what the pump's raw flow rate is, and of what the flow rate is with the flow meter on the outlet side - timed flow rates into a container that is.....
But no way of know the flow when the loop is running to as _accurately as possible_ calibrate the flow sensor.

Connecting the loop return line - not open into a container will add pressure to the system all be it a minimal amount
That added pressure of the return line must effect the flow rate to a certain extent.
But by how much.

Which is why I was trying to reverse engineer a way to use a know flow rate to use for calibration.

Just trying to get it as good as I can









EDIT - guilty as charged








This is my flow and pressure test set up - aka the Flow Monster
Currently with an Ice Force block on mimicking Stren's flow Vs pressure data from his cpu round up


Spoiler: Stren's data


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fast_fate*
> 
> I admit may be over complicating it,
> But if you re-read the first part of my previous post - the timed runs with known fluid volumes are against zero restriction.
> I have done this countless dozens of time recently and have a very good average of what the pump's raw flow rate is, and of what the flow rate is with the flow meter on the outlet side - timed flow rates into a container that is.....
> But no way of know the flow when the loop is running to as _accurately as possible_ calibrate the flow sensor.
> 
> Connecting the loop return line - not open into a container will add pressure to the system all be it a minimal amount
> That added pressure of the return line must effect the flow rate to a certain extent.
> But by how much.
> 
> Which is why I was trying to reverse engineer a way to use a know flow rate to use for calibration.
> 
> Just trying to get it as good as I can
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> EDIT - guilty as charged
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is my flow and pressure test set up - aka the Flow Monster
> Currently with an Ice Force block on mimicking Stren's flow Vs pressure data from his cpu round up
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Stren's data
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


I may be wrong but what difference dose restriction before the flow meter make?? you are setting up the flow meter so it does not matter if there is not restrictions as the meter is just reading the amount of the flow through it. the loop equalizes so you can set the meter up with free flowing water and it will be correct even with restrictions in the loop... the meter reads the flow that moves through it not the restricition before and after!


----------



## indyjones

Bit of a long shot but has anybody produced 2D CAD for the faceplate of the Aquaero 5/6 Pro please? I am planning on directly mounting it to the size of my case, so need CAD to get the side part water jet cut. Just saves me measuring up and producing it myself


----------



## Shoggy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *indyjones*
> 
> Bit of a long shot but has anybody produced 2D CAD for the faceplate of the Aquaero 5/6 Pro please? I am planning on directly mounting it to the size of my case, so need CAD to get the side part water jet cut. Just saves me measuring up and producing it myself


----------



## fast_fate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> I may be wrong but *what difference dose restriction before the flow meter make*?? you are setting up the flow meter so it does not matter if there is not restrictions as the meter is just reading the amount of the flow through it. the loop equalizes so you can *set the meter up with free flowing water and it will be correct* even with restrictions in the loop... the meter reads the flow that moves through it not the restricition before and after!


If don't know the answer to that question









In a way this was the answer I was looking for in my first post, how do people calibrate their flow meters.
So I'll try mains water with the 3/8 tubing and see how it goes.
Cheers










After that,
I'm going to try mains water through the meter as suggested
and also connect the rpm reading wire to a fan header and attempt to pick up the rpm of the impeller.
May need to go down the hertz with multi meter avenue also ??

If Martin's 1/2" data works all well and good, and if not I'll see if I can find the answer for 3/8 ID gear


----------



## fast_fate

Hey @seross69
Apparently the pump pressure does make quite a big difference or I have a wonky meter









Some free flowing tests....

I did the following straight from the faucet - not pumping.
3/8 barb from tap with 15 cm length of 3/8 x 5/8 tube - no restriction except the barb.

I did 3 timed runs from tap straight into a 4 liter jug, which averaged 43.88 seconds per 4 liter run.
Giving a tap flow rate of 5.47 lpm.
I'm prepared to call that 5.5 lpm or 1.45 gpm, allowing for stop watch time difference and Aquaero gives just a single decimal anyway.

Next
The exact same set up as above with the addition of

a 3/8 x 5/8 compression fitting on tube from tap.
the flow sensor
and a 1/2 ID barb on the outlet side (to keep the flow meter over the jug and not flick out)
averaged time for the 4 liters was 43.65 seconds.
Making the flow rate exactly 5.50 lpm or 1.45 gpm.

From this test one could conclude that under 5.5 lpm or 1.45 gpm (at the minimum) the Flow Sensor does not impede flow / pressure.
Yet Martin's Graph indicates otherwise.


So I connected the cable from the Aquaero and fired it up,
First of all putting calibration back to stock (and recommended) rate of 169 pulses per minute - ppm.
I did another timed 4 liter run, with it being within the high low of the other timed runs, and still same flow rate of 5.5 lpm.
I left the tap running - over 15 minutes letting each new ppm setting stabilize
and at the end I did another timed run and the tap flow rate was still the same.

The Aquaero flow was reading 4.6 lpm - at the start with the 169 ppm setting


Spoiler: I took other readings on the way



160 ppm - 4.7 lpm
155 ppm - 4.8 lpm
150 ppm - 5.0 lpm
145 ppm - 5.1 lpm
140 ppm - 5.3 lpm
136 ppm - 5.4 lpm


In the end is was 136 ppm which gave a flow reading of 5.5 lpm

This I know just isn't correct - it can't be.

I've tested with pump running and open loop into container but felt that was not right either.
155 ppm was the result of that test to get reading to match the actual flow rate.

So I think I'm back to looking for a way to calibrate in a close loop without a _"proper"_ flow meter in line to check against.

Did you think my idea in the first post was feasible - using other flow Vs pressure data to calibrate against.
I think it is, but not certain.
Still have to find 2 flow Vs pressure charts that are same (or very close) that I have the hardware for








*

EDIT* - I think I'm just going to try my method against Martin's graph data and see what happens.
His is done with 1/2" gear (and custom ported)
I'm using 3/8" gear
So I'm not sure how the outcome will be - can't be worse that what I have now - uncertainty


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fast_fate*
> 
> Hey @seross69
> Apparently the pump pressure does make quite a big difference or I have a wonky meter
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Some free flowing tests....
> 
> I did the following straight from the faucet - not pumping.
> 3/8 barb from tap with 15 cm length of 3/8 x 5/8 tube - no restriction except the barb.
> 
> I did 3 timed runs from tap straight into a 4 liter jug, which averaged 43.88 seconds per 4 liter run.
> Giving a tap flow rate of 5.47 lpm.
> I'm prepared to call that 5.5 lpm or 1.45 gpm, allowing for stop watch time difference and Aquaero gives just a single decimal anyway.
> 
> Next
> The exact same set up as above with the addition of
> 
> a 3/8 x 5/8 compression fitting on tube from tap.
> the flow sensor
> and a 1/2 ID barb on the outlet side (to keep the flow meter over the jug and not flick out)
> averaged time for the 4 liters was 43.65 seconds.
> Making the flow rate exactly 5.50 lpm or 1.45 gpm.
> 
> From this test one could conclude that under 5.5 lpm or 1.45 gpm (at the minimum) the Flow Sensor does not impede flow / pressure.
> Yet Martin's Graph indicates otherwise.
> 
> 
> So I connected the cable from the Aquaero and fired it up,
> First of all putting calibration back to stock (and recommended) rate of 169 pulses per minute - ppm.
> I did another timed 4 liter run, with it being within the high low of the other timed runs, and still same flow rate of 5.5 lpm.
> I left the tap running - over 15 minutes letting each new ppm setting stabilize
> and at the end I did another timed run and the tap flow rate was still the same.
> 
> The Aquaero flow was reading 4.6 lpm - at the start with the 169 ppm setting
> 
> 
> Spoiler: I took other readings on the way
> 
> 
> 
> 160 ppm - 4.7 lpm
> 155 ppm - 4.8 lpm
> 150 ppm - 5.0 lpm
> 145 ppm - 5.1 lpm
> 140 ppm - 5.3 lpm
> 136 ppm - 5.4 lpm
> 
> 
> In the end is was 136 ppm which gave a flow reading of 5.5 lpm
> 
> This I know just isn't correct - it can't be.
> 
> I've tested with pump running and open loop into container but felt that was not right either.
> 155 ppm was the result of that test to get reading to match the actual flow rate.
> 
> So I think I'm back to looking for a way to calibrate in a close loop without a _"proper"_ flow meter in line to check against.
> 
> Did you think my idea in the first post was feasible - using other flow Vs pressure data to calibrate against.
> I think it is, but not certain.
> Still have to find 2 flow Vs pressure charts that are same (or very close) that I have the hardware for
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *
> 
> EDIT* - I think I'm just going to try my method against Martin's graph data and see what happens.
> His is done with 1/2" gear (and custom ported)
> I'm using 3/8" gear
> So I'm not sure how the outcome will be - can't be worse that what I have now - uncertainty


It will be about 12 hours before I can read this and understand it and give you a good answer but I still think you are over complicating it. all the flow meter does is measure the water going through it the loo flow and pressure will equalize if it is a closed loop. so you can calibrate it to show what is flowing through it then it will be correct when you put it in the loop.

anything that is in the loop including tubing restricts the flow to an extent.

maybe I am not understanding you correctly but I think you are reading way to far into the restrictions and things like this.. if the flow meter is calibrated and reads the free flowing water correctly then why would it not read the flow in a closed loop correctly??

pressure does have a bearing on flow but if the meter and AQ is calibrated with free flowing water then it is going to read correctly in the loop even with pressure as you are just turning a paddle in the meter to get a pulse.

like I said I am at work and will do some more reading on what you are saying and trying to do because I must be missing something. but as I am in Qatar right now and I have to finish my work then I will sleep and look at this when i get up!!


----------



## Jakusonfire

The fact that the flow rate from a mains tap does not change when the meter was added does not really tell you anything about the meter. All it shows is that the very high mains pressure water flow rate is being determined by the restriction of the tap and internal plumbing. The added restriction of the meter is absolutely tiny and insignificant in comparison so makes no measureable difference.
The head pressure and flow curve of a pump is on a completely different scale to mains pressure so a flow meter level of restriction will impact the flow rate.

It is hard to understand how you could get such a low PPL figure with your measurements. If anything by using 3/8 tube and fittings you would expect higher PPL readings.

Maybe this is an accuracy problem in measuring the volume coming out of the meter? When doing both calibration tests were the exact same fittings attached to the meter? I'm not sure exactly how but something tells me that having a 3/8 fitting on one side and 1/2 on the other may introduce some error.


----------



## indyjones

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*


Superb thank you!


----------



## IT Diva

One thing to keep in mind as you try to analyze your results, is that with pulse rates just under 3 per second, that's a pretty difficult read with relatively short measuring cycles.

Some cycles you'll get 2 pulses and others will get 3 if you measure and hold once per second, even if the output is updated every 2 seconds, some times it'll see 5, others 6.

Don't expect too much consistency with individual readings/data points . . . .

Make each reading 10 times, and then average or mean them.

D.


----------



## WHIMington

Hi everyone, I have recently received my Aquaero6xt (pic soon™ )， I haven't done anything on it yet, but I do have thing or two to ask first.

First of all I want to ask Darlene about the D5 pull up mod, I am planning to use a dual PWM D5(why? because why not? I have such a fetish for controlling everything with PWM







) setup, I want to hook both pumps on the separate channels(fan1 and 2 respectively) does that count as a single pullup setup that ask for a 4.7k resistor? or can I get away with either 2.2k or 3.3k? (I currently only have 2.2 and 3.3 on my disposal and It would be rather silly to go into a store just to buy 2 half cents resistor) I also noticed that you seems to be using 1w resistors while the text said that is a 1/2 and 1/4 W, while I understand it doesn't matter, I just want to check if that was any thing I might miss there?

Secondly, I accidentally incorrectly brought myself the mps 200 flow meter(because I was originally planning to use a single DDC loop and was quite tired at the time of the purchase during weeks of long/night shifts combo, my brain wasn't functioning as good as it usually is until the stuff arrive)







. While I still plan to go with a low flow config just under 200 LpH, I am still going to buy another high flow USB sensor for better compatibility this time, is that a way to repurpose the mps 200 to do other things?

p.s Honestly thought, I think AC should just make a D5 PWM adapter for us to purchase

EDIT: as promised, a pic


----------



## pathfindercod

What do ya'll recommend for a flow sensor for dual ddc pumps?


----------



## pathfindercod

Well I'm joining the club. Actually got the order placed today with the 3 pin 53068 flow meter, black faceplate, black heatsink and the 53068 temp sensor.. Hope I chose the right stuff. Luckily PPCS got big aqua stuff shipment in today.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WHIMington*
> 
> Hi everyone, I have recently received my Aquaero6xt (pic soon™ )， I haven't done anything on it yet, but I do have thing or two to ask first.
> 
> First of all I want to ask Darlene about the D5 pull up mod, I am planning to use a dual PWM D5(why? because why not? I have such a fetish for controlling everything with PWM
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ) setup, I want to hook both pumps on the separate channels(fan1 and 2 respectively) does that count as a single pullup setup that ask for a 4.7k resistor? or can I get away with either 2.2k or 3.3k? (I currently only have 2.2 and 3.3 on my disposal and It would be rather silly to go into a store just to buy 2 half cents resistor) I also noticed that you seems to be using 1w resistors while the text said that is a 1/2 and 1/4 W, while I understand it doesn't matter, I just want to check if that was any thing I might miss there?
> 
> Secondly, I accidentally incorrectly brought myself the mps 200 flow meter(because I was originally planning to use a single DDC loop and was quite tired at the time of the purchase during weeks of long/night shifts combo, my brain wasn't functioning as good as it usually is until the stuff arrive)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . While I still plan to go with a low flow config just under 200 LpH, I am still going to buy another high flow USB sensor for better compatibility this time, is that a way to repurpose the mps 200 to do other things?
> 
> p.s Honestly thought, I think AC should just make a D5 PWM adapter for us to purchase
> 
> EDIT: as promised, a pic


There's no good reason to run the pump pair from separate channels, (assuming a single loop) just makes them that much harder to keep synched, and takes up a channel that could be used for something important. . . . . plus then you'd need to make 2 pullup mods . . .









Run them both from a single channel, connect the tach from one to that channel, and the tach from the other to the CPU fan header . . .

Simple, effective, and if you find a compelling reason somewhere down the road to change it . . wait 'til then and do it.

The wattage rating on the resistor isn't real important, I used what was handy, and did not want to use a small one with thin leads that would be likely to get broken from flexing the wire as it gets plugged and unplugged a lot from testing stuff.

The 1/2 and 1/4 recommendations were suggested minimums taking fragility into account.

You could use 3.3K for a single or a dual, you'll be able to easily adjust the software min and max points specific to your setup.

Darlene


----------



## WHIMington

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> There's no good reason to run the pump pair from separate channels, (assuming a single loop) just makes them that much harder to keep synched, and takes up a channel that could be used for something important. . . . . plus then you'd need to make 2 pullup mods . . .
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Run them both from a single channel, connect the tach from one to that channel, and the tach from the other to the CPU fan header . . .
> 
> Simple, effective, and if you find a compelling reason somewhere down the road to change it . . wait 'til then and do it.
> 
> The wattage rating on the resistor isn't real important, I used what was handy, and did not want to use a small one with thin leads that would be likely to get broken from flexing the wire as it gets plugged and unplugged a lot from testing stuff.
> 
> The 1/2 and 1/4 recommendations were suggested minimums taking fragility into account.
> 
> You could use 3.3K for a single or a dual, you'll be able to easily adjust the software min and max points specific to your setup.
> 
> Darlene


Thank you Darlene, I do not have a use for the 4th channel (now)as I planned to plug 2 fan hubs, so I think I'd just see if I can plug the tach of the second pump onto the 4th channel that I don't need (for the sake of monitoring everything with 6XT and run a tach line from the flowmeter to the motherboard, and on the bright side, at less I know I will have a lot of spears resistor and diodes at my disposal


----------



## aaroc

I want to share my good experience with Aqua Computer and PPCS on a warranty claim of the Aquaero waterblock more info here. Recommended.









What fittings do you recommend for the Aquaero Waterblock? Monsoon Free Center Compression Fittings are to big to fit.


----------



## mandrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *aaroc*
> 
> I want to share my good experience with Aqua Computer and PPCS on a warranty claim of the Aquaero waterblock more info here. Recommended.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What fittings do you recommend for the Aquaero Waterblock? Monsoon Free Center Compression Fittings are to big to fit.


Almost any kind of G 1/4 extension will work, as the diameter usually is not as large as a compression fitting....or you could use a Bitspower (or other) rotary fitting.

I've had that same problem as you with the Aquaero water blocks not having the best threads....fortunately I was able to make mine work. (I have two)

Too lazy to take pic of current setup....here is my former setup......


----------



## WHIMington

I just tested AQ6 with the Phanteks fan hub, but it seems the fan hub would not work, the fan simply don't move









The problem is that even if I disconnect the sata supply and runs the hub with voltage the fans will still not runs, I checked the connections with a multimeter and find that the fan port on AQ6 is giving out 12V as normal and have proper voltage control when switch to power control mode, while the fan hub on the other hand does not give out any voltage to the fan at all, I redo the test with both the motherboard CPU_FAN and CPU_OPT port and the hub is functioning normally, so I am not sure where the problem is


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WHIMington*
> 
> I just tested AQ6 with the Phanteks fan hub, but it seems the fan hub would not work, the fan simply don't move
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The problem is that even if I disconnect the sata supply and runs the hub with voltage the fans will still not runs, I checked the connections with a multimeter and find that the fan port on AQ6 is giving out 12V as normal and have proper voltage control when switch to power control mode, while the fan hub on the other hand does not give out any voltage to the fan at all, I redo the test with both the motherboard CPU_FAN and CPU_OPT port and the hub is functioning normally, so I am not sure where the problem is


Not a phantecs owner myself, but from what I understand from those who are, the purpose of the phantecs hub is to turn a PWM control signal into a proportional voltage so that you can use a lot of 3 pin fans, and have them voltage controlled from the MOBO's PWM CPU header without overloading anything . . . .

Sounds like you're trying to use it backwards . . .

Darlene


----------



## WHIMington

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Not a phantecs owner myself, but from what I understand from those who are, the purpose of the phantecs hub is to turn a PWM control signal into a proportional voltage so that you can use a lot of 3 pin fans, and have them voltage controlled from the MOBO's PWM CPU header without overloading anything . . . .
> 
> Sounds like you're trying to use it backwards . . .
> 
> Darlene


The Phanteks can function in 2 ways: PWM controled voltage regulating for fan hub with SATA power supply, or Fan port direct power feed and voltage regulation without SATA power supply

I actually tested all ways of connecting it:

AQ6 set to PWM control, hub connected to SATA power supply and AQ6 fan prot= no voltage at fan hub output

AQ6 set to power control mode, hub connected to AQ6 fan port, sata disconnected= no voltage at fan hub output

AQ6 set to PWM control, hub connected to AQ6 fan port, SATA disconnected= no voltage at fan hub output

I redo all the above test with motherboard CPU_FAN and CPU_OPT port and control with ASUS Fan Xperts 2, all is working, I am even surprised about the fact that the PWM function seems to still working without SATA power supply, it seems that the fan is taking power from the 4 pin port instead, not sure if that is real though, I did not test the ports with multimeter at the motherboard test


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WHIMington*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Not a phantecs owner myself, but from what I understand from those who are, the purpose of the phantecs hub is to turn a PWM control signal into a proportional voltage so that you can use a lot of 3 pin fans, and have them voltage controlled from the MOBO's PWM CPU header without overloading anything . . . .
> 
> Sounds like you're trying to use it backwards . . .
> 
> Darlene
> 
> 
> 
> The Phanteks can function in 2 ways: PWM controled voltage regulating for fan hub with SATA power supply, or Fan port direct power feed and voltage regulation without SATA power supply
> 
> I actually tested all ways of connecting it:
> 
> AQ6 set to PWM control, hub connected to SATA power supply and AQ6 fan prot= no voltage at fan hub output
> 
> AQ6 set to power control mode, hub connected to AQ6 fan port, sata disconnected= no voltage at fan hub output
> 
> AQ6 set to PWM control, hub connected to AQ6 fan port, SATA disconnected= no voltage at fan hub output
> 
> I redo all the above test with motherboard CPU_FAN and CPU_OPT port and control with ASUS Fan Xperts 2, all is working, I am even surprised about the fact that the PWM function seems to still working without SATA power supply, it seems that the fan is taking power from the 4 pin port instead, not sure if that is real though, I did not test the ports with multimeter at the motherboard test
Click to expand...

Make a short extension cable and do the pullup mod for the D5 pump on it.



Use that cable to connect the phantecs hub to the A6.

Use these posts as reference:

http://www.overclock.net/t/1474470/ocn-aquaero-owners-club/50#post_21956203

http://www.overclock.net/t/1474470/ocn-aquaero-owners-club/60#post_21956489

You have the option of making the extension with the power wires, (if you want the A6 to supply power) or as pictured with just PWM and tach.

I'd suggest as pictured and run power via the sata connector.

D.


----------



## WHIMington

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Make a short extension cable and do the pullup mod for the D5 pump on it.
> 
> 
> 
> Use that cable to connect the phantecs hub to the A6.
> 
> Use these posts as reference:
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1474470/ocn-aquaero-owners-club/50#post_21956203
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1474470/ocn-aquaero-owners-club/60#post_21956489
> 
> You have the option of making the extension with the power wires, (if you want the A6 to supply power) or as pictured with just PWM and tach.
> 
> I'd suggest as pictured and run power via the sata connector.
> 
> D.


Wait, so its the pullup thing again?









Which resister should I use for this? 4.7K?


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Not sure if this matters, but you are only supposed to connect the PSU cable when the number of fans you are connecting to the hub exceeds what your mobo header is rated to support by itself, at least that's how the hubs that come with the Enthoo Primo case works. I assume you are using the hub which came with the Enthoo Pro since you mention a SATA connector and the one that comes with the Primo has a 4-pin Molex.

Enthoo Primo fan hubs come with this sticker on the molex lead:



The hub works fine with the Primo as instructed, but you definitely do not want to connect the molex until you have nearly reached the limit of what your PWM mobo header by itself will support. If you connect the molex with only one or two fans people report they will either spin at full speed or not at all.

I'm not sure how the AQ6 PWM works, but if it is the case that it only supplies the PWM signal (and reads the tach) and you pull all of your 12v from the PSU then it might be a completely different animal to the Phanteks hub which is looking for the 4 pin connected to a mobo header to also supply a 12V and ground to the hub and only relies on the PSU's 12v for some backup.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WHIMington*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Make a short extension cable and do the pullup mod for the D5 pump on it.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Use that cable to connect the phantecs hub to the A6.
> 
> Use these posts as reference:
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1474470/ocn-aquaero-owners-club/50#post_21956203
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1474470/ocn-aquaero-owners-club/60#post_21956489
> 
> You have the option of making the extension with the power wires, (if you want the A6 to supply power) or as pictured with just PWM and tach.
> 
> I'd suggest as pictured and run power via the sata connector.
> 
> D.
> 
> 
> 
> Wait, so its the pullup thing again?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Which resister should I use for this? 4.7K?
Click to expand...

Yea, probably . . . .

The phantecs hub likely doesn't have one built in, expecting it to be on the controller end . . like a CPU header on a mobo usually has it.

3.3K or 4.7K, probably isn't a big deal either way, I'd go with 4.7K if you have it handy.

This is a mod that can't hurt if pullup isn't the problem, but will fix the problem if it is, so you can't loose by trying it first.

That you measured no voltage on the PWM pin in PWM control mode, with the phantecs hub attached, and assuming it wasn't set at 0%, indicates no pullup in the phantecs hub, since we know there's none in the A6.

Darlene

Edit to add:

Given what Unicron posted above, you may need to run all 4 wires in your extension cable . . . . Could be that the phantecs needs that 12V power to power its onboard components, even though they don't include a pullup on the PWM line.


----------



## WHIMington

Well before jumping into conclusion I decided to take a few hi res picture of the PCB just to be sure


Spoiler: BE AWARE! 15MB per image!









The enthoo Pro fan hub works a bit differently then its bigger brother, the manual actaully saids that inorder to get full PWM function you NEED to connect to 12V SATA


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WHIMington*
> 
> Well before jumping into conclusion I decided to take a few hi res picture of the PCB just to be sure
> 
> 
> Spoiler: BE AWARE! 15MB per image!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The enthoo Pro fan hub works a bit differently then its bigger brother, the manual actaully saids that inorder to get full PWM function you NEED to connect to 12V SATA


This would be really interesting to analyze with a scope.

From what it looks like, the PWM signal in, is being used to control a P channel mosfet that actually pulses the +12V supply to the fan ports proportionally to the width of the PWM signal pulse.

Here's the data sheet for the 8 pin IC, P-channel mosfet, that's located at the end where the SATA connector power comes in:

http://pdf1.alldatasheet.com/datasheet-pdf/view/482784/DINTEK/DTM4425.html

Darlene


----------



## JLMS2010

I have a question.I have the 6XT and 2 Aquabus D5 pumps. I have all 3 connected to the motherboard. In Aquasuite I can go to MPS and adjust each one individually. Is there another way of doing this? I thought I could have the usb from the 6XT to the motherboard and use the "high" port on the 6XT. I have the y cable and 3 pin aquabus cable that the pumps came with connected. I will leave it like this if need be, just trying to cut down on cables. Lol. I went into Aquasuite and changed the "address from 13 to 12 and left the other one on 13. So, they have different addresses. I can see each pump under "pumps" in aquasuite and can slide the bar, but it won't change the speed like it does under "MPS" for each pump. Thanks!

Second question is my fan diplay goes from 1200rpm to 0 then back to 1200. Then fans don't change speeds, but the display seems to have something weird going on with it.


----------



## WHIMington

I am not so sure though, as I was testing the hub with mobo PWM control and the output fan headers shows lowered voltage on the hub output:thinking:

Anyways I have run out of time today, got to work tomorrow and have to wait till next weekend for any more testings


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WHIMington*
> 
> I am not so sure though, as I was testing the hub with mobo PWM control and the output fan headers shows lowered voltage on the hub output:thinking:
> 
> Anyways I have run out of time today, got to work tomorrow and have to wait till next weekend for any more testings


If you're just using a multi meter to look at voltage, it will show a voltage proportional to the pulse width.

It can't do what a scope can do. . . . . Which makes it a terrible tool to measure voltage when you don't know in advance that it's a purely DC or sinewave AC voltage, because it will lead you to mistaken conclusions.

You might try using the multi meter on frequency, at least that would tell you it's being pulsed if the frequency is within the meter's range.

With the A6, or a mobo, it should be 25KHz.

D.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JLMS2010*
> 
> I have a question.I have the 6XT and 2 Aquabus D5 pumps. I have all 3 connected to the motherboard. In Aquasuite I can go to MPS and adjust each one individually. Is there another way of doing this? I thought I could have the usb from the 6XT to the motherboard and use the "high" port on the 6XT. I have the y cable and 3 pin aquabus cable that the pumps came with connected. I will leave it like this if need be, just trying to cut down on cables. Lol. I went into Aquasuite and changed the "address from 13 to 12 and left the other one on 13. So, they have different addresses. I can see each pump under "pumps" in aquasuite and can slide the bar, but it won't change the speed like it does under "MPS" for each pump. Thanks!
> 
> Second question is my fan diplay goes from 1200rpm to 0 then back to 1200. Then fans don't change speeds, but the display seems to have something weird going on with it.


Not sure I fully understood your setup. Sounds like you have the 6xt connected to MB usb and both pumps connected to MB USB too? Besides you also have the two pumps connected to the Aquaero via the aquabus port? If so and you can't control via Aquabus (only via USB) then most likely priority is set to USB and not Aquabus. Set the priority on both pumps to Aquabus.

In regard to the fans it is the same here and I would like to known too.


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JLMS2010*
> 
> I have a question.I have the 6XT and 2 Aquabus D5 pumps. I have all 3 connected to the motherboard. In Aquasuite I can go to MPS and adjust each one individually. Is there another way of doing this? I thought I could have the usb from the 6XT to the motherboard and use the "high" port on the 6XT. I have the y cable and 3 pin aquabus cable that the pumps came with connected. I will leave it like this if need be, just trying to cut down on cables. Lol. I went into Aquasuite and changed the "address from 13 to 12 and left the other one on 13. So, they have different addresses. I can see each pump under "pumps" in aquasuite and can slide the bar, but it won't change the speed like it does under "MPS" for each pump. Thanks!
> 
> Second question is my fan diplay goes from 1200rpm to 0 then back to 1200. Then fans don't change speeds, but the display seems to have something weird going on with it.


You need to set each pump to Aquabus priority,


then add each pump to a controller just like you do with fans.


The sliders in the pump section just set the maximum and minimum power.


----------



## JLMS2010

Awesome that worked. Thank you!

Still not sure about the fans readings being wacky though. I have 4 per channel...


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JLMS2010*
> 
> Awesome that worked. Thank you!
> 
> Still not sure about the fans readings being wacky though. I have 4 per channel...


Glad it worked. Notice however, since you mention you want to get rid of some cables, that you can only read the true rpm (not in %) from the usb connection (at least I was not able to find it anywhere else while connected with both aquabus and USB).


----------



## JLMS2010

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Glad it worked. Notice however, since you mention you want to get rid of some cables, that you can only read the true rpm (not in %) from the usb connection (at least I was not able to find it anywhere else while connected with both aquabus and USB).


Ok good to know. Yeah, I see everything is in %, which is fine with me.

I have complete control over all my fans, but just don't understand the readings it displays. It must be something with the distribution block...


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JLMS2010*
> 
> Ok good to know. Yeah, I see everything is in %, which is fine with me.
> 
> I have complete control over all my fans, but just don't understand the readings it displays. *It must be something with the distribution block*...


What kind of "distribution block" are you using?

If you mean something like a modmytoys pcb or the like did you modify it by scratching the tach trace or snipping all but one of the output's tach pins so that only one fan reports rpm to the controller? Unfortunately most fan hubs/pcbs split all the input pins to all the outputs so all the fans plugged into it will be trying to report their rpms which corrupts the signal to the controller so it can't get an accurate reading. Here are some examples of modifying a fan hub/pcb for use with a fan controller.

If that's not your problem, then I dunno.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> What kind of "distribution block" are you using?
> 
> If you mean something like a modmytoys pcb or the like did you modify it by scratching the tach trace or snipping all but one of the output's tach pins so that only one fan reports rpm to the controller? Unfortunately most fan hubs/pcbs split all the input pins to all the outputs so all the fans plugged into it will be trying to report their rpms which corrupts the signal to the controller so it can't get an accurate reading. Here are some examples of modifying a fan hub/pcb for use with a fan controller.
> 
> If that's not your problem, then I dunno.


Yep, that makes sense and was thinking that was the cause in my case: all fans with reporting rpm in the spliter and causing the Aquaero to not read the signal properly... I think I will take the 3 pin out of my spliter cables...


----------



## JLMS2010

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> What kind of "distribution block" are you using?
> 
> If you mean something like a modmytoys pcb or the like did you modify it by scratching the tach trace or snipping all but one of the output's tach pins so that only one fan reports rpm to the controller? Unfortunately most fan hubs/pcbs split all the input pins to all the outputs so all the fans plugged into it will be trying to report their rpms which corrupts the signal to the controller so it can't get an accurate reading. Here are some examples of modifying a fan hub/pcb for use with a fan controller.
> 
> If that's not your problem, then I dunno.


These are what I'm using. I'm using 3 of them, one for each channel. I'm using these from the distribution block to the aquaero.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JLMS2010*
> 
> These are what I'm using. I'm using 3 of them, one for each channel. I'm using these from the distribution block to the aquaero.


The ModMyToys PCBs unfortunately have the rpm signal from every fan active which will make the rpm readings by any controller or mobo erratic at best. I suspect that's the reason for your issues.

Here's how people have been modding their 3 pin ModMyToys PCBs so that only the first fan rpm signal is live so that their fan controller will get an accurate rpm reading:





The rpm signal trace on your 4 pin PWM PCB may not be as easy to identify and mod that way seeing as all of your fan headers are not lined up in a straight line down the PCB like they are with that 3 pin one I posted. If that's the case it may just be easier to snip the rpm pin from all but one header or cut the rpm signal wire or remove the rpm signal pin from all but one of your fan's connectors.


----------



## VSG

^ What he said, I did the same thing with my NZXT Grid (got 3 of them total for 26 3-pin fans). Good thing Swiftech knew what they were doing with their PWM splitter else that would have been a major hassle.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Yeah that's exactly what I did with my NZXT Grids, lol ...
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Drama
> 
> 
> 
> Sorry for the necro post, but I've been googling and am not seeing this anywhere.
> 
> Is the rpm (tach) signal wire split to all 10 ports in this NZXT hub?
> 
> If it is then this is basically useless to use with most fan controllers because the rpm speed inputs from all of the fans will corrupt the signal and the fan speed will not be correctly reported to the controller. Even cheap 3-pin fan splitter cables will only have all three wires going to one of the fan plugs, and just the 12v and ground to the rest.
> 
> If, as it should be, only one of the 3-pin outputs has the rpm signal wire, then which port is it? Unless you are going to connect fans to all 10 ports this is need-to-know info, but looking at it and the manual I'm not seeing it anywhere.
> 
> I bought two of these thinking they would be useful, but now I'm having second thoughts. I definitely don't want to have to cut the rpm signal wire on all the fans but one just to be able to use this hub with my fan controller.
> 
> *EDIT:*
> 
> I found my multimeter and found out for sure that all 3 inputs are output to all 3 pins on all 10 of the ports.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That's a HUGE FAIL on NZXT's part imho, but what could be done about it ...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Soooo, I took the two screws out and removed the PCB from its cover and took a small pair of wire cutters and snipped the rpm prong from all but one of the 10 output ports.


----------



## VSG

Seeing how I got the idea from you and cited your post in my build log, it isn't a surprise to me


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Seeing how I got the idea from you and cited your post in my build log, it isn't a surprise to me


lol, I was bent out of shape for about an hour after finding out that all of the fan-outs had the rpm signal live before I realized I could just snip the pins off like that. I thought I'd wasted my money but the fix was too easy. lol

It still baffles me why they make PCBs/Hubs like that as there's no reason I can think of why the rpm signal should be coming from anything but only one fan. Any halfway decent fan splitter cable you buy will be like that, but not the PCBs/Hubs. It doesn't make sense to me.


----------



## VSG

Not the best picture in the world (too lazy that day to put on my macro lens/flash) but I traced back the RPM signals to make sure your picture above was applicable for all the NZXT Grids:



Of course they were, nothing has changed even though I had asked them about this a month after they launched. I had the same issues with the ModMyToyz hubs last year. Cheapo 2/3 pin splitters from China have the wiring routed properly, but not these guys


----------



## aaroc

Will this compresion fitting be installed without problems of space on the Aquaero waterblock? My monsoon fittings are too big. Thanks!


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *aaroc*
> 
> Will this compresion fitting be installed without problems of space on the Aquaero waterblock? My monsoon are too big. Thanks!


The distance between fitting centers on the Aquaero waterblock is 22,7 mm
Sooo, you would need fittings with a smaller diameter than that.
The diameter of the compression fitting you linked is 26mm

You are likely either going to need to use barbs (like this) on that waterblock or angle fittings (like this one that's 18mm dia) that will give you enough room to screw those 3/4 compressions into. I'd just use barbs.


----------



## JLMS2010

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> The ModMyToys PCBs unfortunately have the rpm signal from every fan active which will make the rpm readings by any controller or mobo erratic at best. I suspect that's the reason for your issues.
> 
> Here's how people have been modding their 3 pin ModMyToys PCBs so that only the first fan rpm signal is live so that their fan controller will get an accurate rpm reading:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The rpm signal trace on your 4 pin PWM PCB may not be as easy to identify and mod that way seeing as all of your fan headers are not lined up in a straight line down the PCB like they are with that 3 pin one I posted. If that's the case it may just be easier to snip the rpm pin from all but one header or cut the rpm signal wire or remove the rpm signal pin from all but one of your fan's connectors.


This is great. Thanks!


----------



## gdubc

You need to leave the pins on one channel and the main so that it can report to the aquaero. Cutting the others will cut the interference.


----------



## JLMS2010

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gdubc*
> 
> You need to leave the pins on one channel and the main so that it can report to the aquaero. Cutting the others will cut the interference.


Yep, that worked. Channel one now reads a constant rpm and the other 2 channels are still bouncing around. I'm going to cut the other 2 blocks this evening.


----------



## riesscar

Hello,

I own an Aquaero 6 Pro, and I have a question about the RGB LED header. I have 3 12" Darkside Dimmable White LED Sticks which are powered by 3-pin connectors. Dazmod says that they can be dimmed using a fan controller, but I was unable to adjust the voltage using my MB fan header and fan controller software... the board is a Rampage IV Black Edition. Presumably, the issue is that there is no rpm signal being sent from LED's.

Anyway, my question is which Aquaero output I can use to dim the LED strips. I would like to control the LED's via the RGB LED header, thereby not having to use up one of my fan header channels; however, since these LED strips are not RGB, I don't know if it's possible. Additionally, when I look at the software, it does not seem to offer a brightness adjustment for LED's... just the ability to adjust whether each color is on in different alarm conditions.

So, can I use the AQ6 RGB LED header to dim the LED's via voltage adjustment, or do I need to use the fan headers?

Thanks for any info,

Carson


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *riesscar*
> 
> I have 3 12" Darkside Dimmable White LED Sticks which are powered by 3-pin connectors.
> ...
> Anyway, my question is which Aquaero output I can use to dim the LED strips.


As well as the RGB connector, the Aquaero has two extra 12V channels that are ideal for controlling single-colour LED strips. These are marked PWM1 and PWM2 and in the bottom left of the Aquaero 6. They dim by pulse modulation instead of by voltage control, but it will work fine. You'll notice your Darkside LED sticks have only 2 pins used. You will have to change that fan header for this one, and then you can plug in and dim your LED strips.



Make sure to follow the instruction manual: connect the ground wire of your LED strips to pin 2 of the PWM plug!


----------



## riesscar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> As well as the RGB connector, the Aquaero has two extra 12V channels that are ideal for controlling single-colour LED strips. These are marked PWM1 and PWM2 and in the bottom left of the Aquaero 6. They dim by pulse modulation instead of by voltage control, but it will work fine. You'll notice your Darkside LED sticks have only 2 pins used. You will have to change that fan header for this one, and then you can plug in and dim your LED strips.
> 
> 
> 
> Make sure to follow the instruction manual: connect the ground wire of your LED strips to pin 2 of the PWM plug!


Thanks for the info! I just ordered the connector... paid more in shipping than I did for the product by far









Out of curiosity, when you wrote "as well as the RGB connector", did you mean that the RGB connector _is_ capable of dimming a single color led strip? I was looking at the manual, and it seems to indicate that this output can only be set to have lighting respond to alarm conditions. I could be wrong about this, as it may be possible to use a preset controller value for RGB output, but I couldn't tell. I suppose the point is moot, as I ordered the connector you recommended anyway.

Thanks again,

Carson


----------



## Gratuitous

Hi All,

I am considering an Aquero 6 and have a question. I read through the whole thread and there is a lot of great info spread throughout, but I am unable to find a solution to two potential issues I might have. I would be using this to control a complex rack server cabinet with 5 separate cooling zones with fresh air and exhaust ducting to each zone. the cabinet will ultimately contain around 32 high amp fans around 4.8 amp start up and 2 amp sustained each.

1- How would I go about gaining a 5th and 6th PWM fan channel? Is there some add on that will gain this? Each zone of my cabinet will have between 4 and 18 PWM fans and I want separate channels for each zone. If I was to use 2 AC6 to gain 8 PWM channels would I be able to control them properly in the software or would they conflict with each other?

2- How would I go about powering 16 of these delta fans? PFB1212UHE. This is non PWM 256 cfm 4.8 amp startup, 1.6 amp sustained, 48 watt. they preferably would be all on 1 channel. would 1 chanel of the AC6 even run 1 of them with the 4.8 amp startup? I think some kind of circuit could be devised to take the PWM from a channel on the AC and convert it to external voltage regulation with a much larger amperage consideration.

3 - on the PWM channels is there a way to do staggered startup on the controlled fans. The PWM deltas (TFC1212DE) I have also have a large amperage and even though they will take the PWM signal directly, will I have a problem with 10 or more of these trying to ramp up at the same time?

Thanks for the help.


----------



## mandrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *aaroc*
> 
> Will this compresion fitting be installed without problems of space on the Aquaero waterblock? My monsoon fittings are too big. Thanks!


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *riesscar*
> 
> Thanks for the info! I just ordered the connector... paid more in shipping than I did for the product by far
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Out of curiosity, when you wrote "as well as the RGB connector", did you mean that the RGB connector _is_ capable of dimming a single color led strip? I was looking at the manual, and it seems to indicate that this output can only be set to have lighting respond to alarm conditions. I could be wrong about this, as it may be possible to use a preset controller value for RGB output, but I couldn't tell. I suppose the point is moot, as I ordered the connector you recommended anyway.
> 
> Thanks again,
> 
> Carson


The rgb header can be used to control a normal rgb led bulb, and each color can be independently adjusted at the bottom of the controllers tab in Aquasuite.
Some people supposedly run up to 2 rgb led's, but it's recommended to run only one AFAIK. I run one from both my Aquaero 5's to light my res.....


----------



## Buzz247

Hoping some of you gurus can help me out here. From THIS post in my build log:
Quote:


> Ran into some odd issues as I began to wire in the AQ5 for use and control of top half fans. Here's a quick layout of how it is setup:
> 
> 
> The rear 5 fans worked just fine on channel 1. On channels 2-4, I have 3 fans each connected using PCB boards. The RPM tracer has been severed so only 1 fan is relaying rpm info ( did this with all boards above and below to avoid crosstalk signal). Each of the x3 banks test fired from the AQ5 power up - and 1 fan in each bank did not spin up. While trying to figure this all out, I began to smell hot plastic - touched the hub of each of the fans not spinning and they were hot of course. Powered down, re checked all wiring. Fired back up, same result. Unplugged the offending fan, and 1 of the other 3 would power down too.... duuuuuude... ***! No clue what is going on here. PM'd this issue to @Shoggy to see if he had any ideas. I know it is not a wiring issue, as I tested all fans on direct 12v source and they spun up just fine. Used my custom wires in testing too to verify not an issue there. Then added PCBs into mix to test those - just fine as well. Only when I hook it all up to the AQ5 do I see this oddity occur. The fans are Phobya G-Silent 12 2000rpm with .13A max. So should be within limits of AQ5 requirements. Thermal is not an issue, since a) was running testing at 100% (voltage reg down is what generates heat and b) watercooled block on VR so no chance there either, plus c) AQ5 reporting 107F max VR temp - and that was on a x3 fan channel, the x5fan channel (#1) was reporting 100F. VERY confused right now on what the issue is. Makes me seriously worry about the issues I will encounter on the Multiswitch as I go to lite this bad boy with all the 2550SMD lol
> ***edit: I should add that the 5 fans on channel 1 report rpm just fine. none of the others report rpm to the AQ5 at all.


Ideas?


----------



## Shoggy

Well, I find it pretty obvious that these splitters must be the problem. What happens if you connect a fan directly to a channel? If you still get no rpm reading I bet that the overvoltage protection for the rpm signal on these channels have been damaged for some reason. That would be "good" because it can be repaired. If you are unlucky one ore more of these circuits burned down completely so that the overvoltage goes directly to the assigned input pin of the CPU which means it can not be repaired.

The fact that the splitter became hot sounds a lot like there is a short circuit and I think it has to do with the rpm signal which is not in use when you use the 3 pin to 4 pin adapter which is the reason why there is no problem using this configuration.

If you have a multimeter I recommend to do a check for all pins on the splitter to really make sure that there is nothing crossed.

*@Gratuitou*s

1.) There is no way to extend the amount of PWM enabled channels. You can use two aquaeros in one system without any problems. Each one will get its own tab but you can not combine their controller settings so that the settings from aquaero #1 affects the settings of device #2.

2.) I would not even try one of them on the aquaero... Sounds like Russian roulette to me with these specs.

3.) No, that is not possible.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fast_fate*
> 
> The penny finally dropped,
> I did raw flow rates on timed pump output runs and averaged them for the pump flow rate.
> It was this flow rate that I calibrated the Aquaero to
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At the time not bothering to think that this raw flow rate has no restriction what so ever.
> Even in my short ultra low restriction loop there would be some restriction,
> so my Aquaero flow sensor was not reading the correct flow rate ever because I calibrated it incorrectly.
> 
> *So because my flow rates were reading higher (wrongly calibrated flow meter) the pressure was reading lower (incorrectly)*
> 
> Which leads me to the question (which I'll post in the Aquaero club also) copy 'n paste of my post in the Watercooling Club
> 
> How do people calibrate their Aquaero Flow Sensors ?s
> I doubt most people have "proper" flow meters they can reference to for calibration purposes (not me yet
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )
> 
> I do have Differential Pressure gauges though
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> One which is extremely accurate ans sesitive in the 0 - 1.45 psi range.
> 
> So to calibrate my Aquaero flow sensor - does the following make sense to you guys
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If I can locate a couple of different flow Vs pressure curves for any piece of hardware (that I have access to) which have curves very similar or hopefully identical (confirming the data)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and
> If I adjust / restrict my flow using the tap to get the Differential Pressure to match a know (and confirmed) pressure point somewhere on the curve.
> Then my thinking says that I can then calibrate the Aquaero Flow Sensor to match the flow rate from the confirmed hardware curves.
> 
> My thinking is that tubing size or any other variables done in the confirmed curves and my test set -up won't matter,
> because it is a single point on a chart that is a reference point I'm using, not the curve in entirety where variables would make differences.
> 
> Does that make any sense.
> Or have I again overlooked something basic and stupid


You want a simple way of calibration? Use a d5 vario and bolt the flow meter directly to the outlet. The stock top and pump already have accurate output ratings,just 'tune' the aquaero to those ratings. There is nothing more to consider component wise and you have ratings up and down the rpm range to compare against.

I can't see the need to get closer calibration than that tbh.


----------



## Buzz247

I am posting my reply to Shoggy's PM against my better judgement and hopefully as a "don't be this noob" lesson:
Quote:


> Did as you suggested, everything checked out - single fan reported and worked fine. Checked PCB and no signal cross. Then used (on sheer whim) one of the RPM cables (part 93111) to run the connection -worked fine LIGHTBULB!!! I had tested my wiring for cross signal shorts and continuity - but never tested for correct positions.... I had pin 1 ground and 3 rpm signal reversed - I am so embarrassed right now! Never should have been building this stuff after a full third shift night. Thank you very much for your response in trouble shooting. although it didn't hit the nail, it made me try other things I hadn't thought of and got the problem narrowed to the solution. I re wired one of them so far and works and reports beautifully. Dear gods... going back to my hole under a rock now....


Fast_fate also suggested checking pin out on a reply in my build log - man I am so sorry - I really thought I had done that step so didn't think it was an issue. You an d Shoggy made me go back to basics.

flame on... I deserve it - such a simple mistake I missed


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Buzz247*
> 
> flame on... I deserve it - such a simple mistake I missed


No shame, everyone makes mistakes and it's sometimes a good lesson to double check the basic installation.


----------



## Buzz247

before i biff anything else, need to confirm aquabus series hookups for 6 PA2 and AQ5. If I understand correctly:

PA6 low/1 >PA5 high/2-PA5 low/1> PA4 high/2-PA4 low/1>PA3 high/2-PA3 low/1>PA2 high/2-PA2 low/1>PA1 high/2-PA1 low/1>AQ5 low/1

Given that the Aquastream XT only has 1 aquabus hookup, how would I incorporate it into the connection? Keep in mind I have 2 Aquastream pumps I would need to do this with. Then I also have a USB High flowmeter. Is there any advantage to hooking up aquabus and USB connections on all devices? Would I be better off staying just USB on pumps and flow meter? The flowmeter also has a temp sensor just prior to it, that I intended on linking into the flow meter itself as it has the input for it. Any configuration ideas are welcome


----------



## stevebit56

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Buzz247*
> 
> before i biff anything else, need to confirm aquabus series hookups for 6 PA2 and AQ5. If I understand correctly:
> 
> PA6 low/1 >PA5 high/2-PA5 low/1> PA4 high/2-PA4 low/1>PA3 high/2-PA3 low/1>PA2 high/2-PA2 low/1>PA1 high/2-PA1 low/1>AQ5 low/1
> 
> Given that the Aquastream XT only has 1 aquabus hookup, how would I incorporate it into the connection? Keep in mind I have 2 Aquastream pumps I would need to do this with. Then I also have a USB High flowmeter. Is there any advantage to hooking up aquabus and USB connections on all devices? Would I be better off staying just USB on pumps and flow meter? The flowmeter also has a temp sensor just prior to it, that I intended on linking into the flow meter itself as it has the input for it. Any configuration ideas are welcome


Which flow meter are you using the Aquacomputers mps 200 or 400 both have a build in temp sensor so no need to have a temp sensor prior to it. it also has a temp input so you can hook a second temp sensor for a before and after reading on say the GPU or CPU. and they are tiny tiny flow meters!!


----------



## fast_fate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> You want a simple way of calibration? Use a d5 vario and bolt the flow meter directly to the outlet. The stock top and pump already have accurate output ratings,just 'tune' the aquaero to those ratings. There is nothing more to consider component wise and you have ratings up and down the rpm range to compare against.
> 
> I can't see the need to get closer calibration than that tbh.


Cheers Mate








I ended up getting an inline panel flow meter, so I could check with the loop running.
It is very restrictive with the adjustable flow control but doesn't matter for calibration purposes.

With that in line I was able to alter the Aquaero PPL setting on the fly to match the panel flow meter's reading.

To confirm the new PPL setting and resulting flow reading I took the rpm signal wire from the AC flow meter cable and hooked it onto a fan channel to get the rpm reading.
I used Martin's formula of rpm x .0034 to give a GPM flow rate.
This worked out to be a very accurate and the full rpm range (governed by adjusting the flow with inline tap) matched the Aquaero and the panel flow meter readings









So I would recommend using the paddle wheel's rpm reading to calibrate the AC flow meter to everyone









From all this I am thinking that the calibration is making allowances for how freely (or not) the paddle wheel in the flow meter spins.

My PPL number ended up being 146, which is quite different from the factory 169 setting or Martin's recommended numbers.
That PPL difference was up to 1.2 lmp or 0.3 gpm on the flow readings, so definitely worth calibrating the unit.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Buzz247*
> 
> I am posting my reply to Shoggy's PM against my better judgement and hopefully as a "don't be this noob" lesson:
> Fast_fate also suggested checking pin out on a reply in my build log - man I am so sorry - I really thought I had done that step so didn't think it was an issue. You an d Shoggy made me go back to basics.
> 
> flame on... I deserve it - such a simple mistake I missed


Glad you found the cause of the problem and at worst only a fan damaged.


----------



## Buzz247

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stevebit56*
> 
> Which flow meter are you using the Aquacomputers mps 200 or 400 both have a build in temp sensor so no need to have a temp sensor prior to it. it also has a temp input so you can hook a second temp sensor for a before and after reading on say the GPU or CPU. and they are tiny tiny flow meters!!


This one http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_239_1299&products_id=36083&zenid=bc25de951f9f185763b8edd7f91041b6


----------



## stevebit56

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Buzz247*
> 
> This one http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_239_1299&products_id=36083&zenid=bc25de951f9f185763b8edd7f91041b6


This is the series I'm talking about if you read the description you can see that it has a integrated temp sensor,

http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_239_1299&products_id=36085


----------



## Buzz247

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stevebit56*
> 
> This is the series I'm talking about if you read the description you can see that it has a integrated temp sensor,
> 
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_239_1299&products_id=36085


Right I get that. But the one u posted is not what I have. The one I posted is what I have and the part that will be used in above question


----------



## stevebit56

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Buzz247*
> 
> Right I get that. But the one u posted is not what I have. The one I posted is what I have and the part that will be used in above question


Sorry I misunderstood what you where looking for never mind. Just trying to give you a choice if you where looking for a replacement.


----------



## riesscar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Yes, . . . .
> 
> There's a really good way with an add-on PCB, but there's also a quick and easy way that yields acceptable results without having to run wires and plug into a 5V molex pin somewhere.
> 
> Here's copied from the "old" A6 thread with some additional information:
> 
> For the capable DIY'er . . .
> 
> While not as optimal a solution as the active component based solutions, this is a workable solution to the issue of having a PWM D5.
> 
> 
> 
> I've tried it on a single and a dual D5 setup and it works satisfactorily with pullups optimized for each case, and it's dead nuts simple, though not exactly elegant.
> 
> At issue is that the D5 needs a fairly "strong" pullup, (lower resistance) . . . while the A6 works best with weaker pullups, (higher resistance).
> 
> This setup uses the 12V available from the first 2 of the 4 PWM fan pins on each channel of the A6.
> 
> The Zener diode and larger resistor form a 5V regulated source that the smaller resistor connects the PWM line to.
> 
> The diode is a 5.1V Zener diode, and the larger resistor, the 1/2 W one, is a 560 Ohm, but 470, 680, 820, or 1K will work as well. 1K may be the easiest to find.
> 
> Be sure you have the Zener diode polarity connected as in the pic.
> 
> The smaller resistor, 1/4 W, is a 2.2K which I'd suggest for a dual D5 setup, but for a single D5, a 3.3K would be fine.
> 
> The smaller size, 1/6W or 1/8W are electrically OK, but the smaller physical size makes lead breakage more of an issue, so stay with 1/4W.
> 
> Everything shown is available from RadioShack.
> 
> Hope that helps,
> 
> Darlene


Hello,

I apologize for my ignorance on how to solder, but I am about to attempt this modification and I wondered if I could get clarification on the method. I have all of the necessary parts and a soldering gun. I see where to solder the diode and resistors together, but how am I to make the connection inside the fan pin housing? Can I just stick the non-soldered side of the resistors into the fan connector housing and make sure that contact is made between the metals, or do I need to remove the pins and solder them to the resistor?

I hope that I have asked my question clearly, but if not I'll try again.

Thanks for any help,

Carson


----------



## riesscar

I think I figured it out. I went ahead and took two fan housing connectors from fan connectors that I don't use (extension cables), and will seat them into the two vacant female connectors of my D5 fan connector. I have one more question that I really need answered before proceeding:

You mention the importance of the polarity of the Zener Diode, but what about the resistors? Does their polarity matter? I ask because -- per your advice -- I went with a 4.7k 1/4w resistor, which is marked differently than the 2.2k that is in the picture. My resistor has the following color coding: yellow, blue, red gold. If the polarity doesn't matter, then great... but if it does, I don't want to short circuit the pump, my PSU or cause an electric fire!!!

Thanks for any info,

Carson


----------



## Costas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *riesscar*
> 
> do I need to remove the pins and solder them to the resistor?


Hi Carson - Yes you do indeed need to remove the pins. They are removed without too much trouble.

If you look carefully at the pic you attached you can see 4 slots on the side of the connector. If you look inside those slots, you should be able to make-out how the pins are held in place. There is a small hinged tab on each pin which engages in the slot and it prevents the pin from being removed through the top of the connector.

If you take a small tool (I use the tip of a blunt modelling scalpel blade) such as a small jewellers screwdriver etc you can carefully press the tab down on each pin located in each slot - You should not have to push too hard - all you need to ensure is that the tab will not catch as the pin is moved backwards on the inner edge of the plastic housing.

The pins are extracted out through the back [wire entry side] - Once tab is depressed, simply pull on the associated wire gently to pull pin out.

Before inserting the pin back in, ensure that its tab is bent out slightly so that it will engage in the housing's slot again.

Also a tip when soldering - use the minimum amount of solder when soldering to the pins and only solder to top section of the pin. If you end up with a big blob of solder on the pin, it may not fit back into the housing....









BTW - resistors are not polarity sensitive....!


----------



## riesscar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Costas*
> 
> Hi Carson - Yes you do indeed need to remove the pins. They are removed without too much trouble.
> 
> If you look carefully at the pic you attached you can see 4 slots on the side of the connector. If you look inside those slots, you should be able to make-out how the pins are held in place. There is a small hinged tab on each pin which engages in the slot and it prevents the pin from being removed through the top of the connector.
> 
> If you take a small tool (I use the tip of a blunt modelling scalpel blade) such as a small jewellers screwdriver etc you can carefully press the tab down on each pin located in each slot - You should not have to push too hard - all you need to ensure is that the tab will not catch as the pin is moved backwards on the inner edge of the plastic housing.
> 
> The pins are extracted out through the back [wire entry side] - Once tab is depressed, simply pull on the associated wire gently to pull pin out.
> 
> Before inserting the pin back in, ensure that its tab is bent out slightly so that it will engage in the housing's slot again.
> 
> Also a tip when soldering - use the minimum amount of solder when soldering to the pins and only solder to top section of the pin. If you end up with a big blob of solder on the pin, it may not fit back into the housing....
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> BTW - resistors are not polarity sensitive....!


Hey Costas,

Thanks so much for that information! It was exactly what I needed to know, and explicated quite clearly.

You mention that I need only solder to the "top section" of the pin. What exactly do you mean by that? When I look at a removed fan pin, I see the following: a pair of clamps that hold the wire w/wire casing in place; then a tighter pair of clamps that hold the fan wire (uncased); then the triangular shaped tab that has a small protruding tab atop it.

So when I solder the resistor to the pin, should I do so before the triangular tab formation on the same side as the fan wire (I.e. on top of the fan wire) ?

Thanks again for the help,

Carson


----------



## MeanBruce

That first frontal edge, beginning first time water cooling tomorrow.

Dear God, bless my build. I'm nervous.

http://s1177.photobucket.com/user/MeanBruce/media/IMG_8555_zps7e25b63d.jpg.html


----------



## Costas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *riesscar*
> 
> You mention that I need only solder to the "top section" of the pin. What exactly do you mean by that? When I look at a removed fan pin, I see the following: a pair of clamps that hold the wire w/wire casing in place; then a tighter pair of clamps that hold the fan wire (uncased); then the triangular shaped tab that has a small protruding tab atop it.


Yeh - I apologise about that - I should have been clearer on that point.

Basically you want to apply solder where the 'tight' clamp is holding the actually copper wire in place as best as you can. You really do not want to apply solder much further down than this as it will effectively render the pin as useless if the solder flows into the actual connector itself (ie the section where the mating pin sits in when the male/female connectors mate with each other).

You also do not want to apply solder up where the pin is clamped around the wire insulation as apart from melting insulation...







it will reduce the clearance you have and it may not easily fit back into the plastic housing.


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Buzz247*
> 
> before i biff anything else, need to confirm aquabus series hookups for 6 PA2 and AQ5. If I understand correctly:
> 
> PA6 low/1 >PA5 high/2-PA5 low/1> PA4 high/2-PA4 low/1>PA3 high/2-PA3 low/1>PA2 high/2-PA2 low/1>PA1 high/2-PA1 low/1>AQ5 low/1
> 
> Given that the Aquastream XT only has 1 aquabus hookup, how would I incorporate it into the connection? Keep in mind I have 2 Aquastream pumps I would need to do this with. Then I also have a USB High flowmeter. Is there any advantage to hooking up aquabus and USB connections on all devices? Would I be better off staying just USB on pumps and flow meter? The flowmeter also has a temp sensor just prior to it, that I intended on linking into the flow meter itself as it has the input for it. Any configuration ideas are welcome


I dunno if I'm reading that wrong but the Aquabus low ports are not for use with poweradjust or newer MPS devices. It is only for older parts like the multiswitch.

The MPS devices need to be used with splitters and the poweradjust can be wired in series because it has two aquabus ports. I think that is what you are describing but there is no low porting.



If you had say two mps devices and 3 poweradjust you just put a 3 way splitter on the Aquabus high port and connect the two mps devices to it. On the 3rd connection you run to the first poweradjust and daisy chain the other two on after it.


----------



## Buzz247

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> I dunno if I'm reading that wrong but the Aquabus low ports are not for use with poweradjust or newer MPS devices. It is only for older parts like the multiswitch.
> 
> The MPS devices need to be used with splitters and the poweradjust can be wired in series because it has two aquabus ports. I think that is what you are describing but there is no low porting.
> 
> If you had say two mps devices and 3 poweradjust you just put a 3 way splitter on the Aquabus high port and connect the two mps devices to it. On the 3rd connection you run to the first poweradjust and daisy chain the other two on after it.


No - not reading it wrong - I typed it wrong lol. Ok I think I get it a bit better now - and ty for the pic, very helpful.

The low will have a multiswitch on it in a bit. Just haven't started on that part yet, but likely will find an appropriate forum for that as I go to make sure I load it right with the LEDs and 2550SMD strips.
The high - if I am understanding correctly here and for purposes of my setup and how things are located - I should be able to daisy chain all 6 PA2, pumps, and flowmeter (given that it is the newer one but not listed as an MPS type ). Let me know if I got that right. Not sure if the pumps and flowmeter need to be on splitters. I _think_ it may given the pic (?). In using "daisy chain", I am referring to either option of dual ports like on the PA2, or just simply y-splitting at a connector to jump to the next device.

I have the available USB ports (using powered internal hubs hidden) so would there be an advantage to also hooking all devices up via USB permanently as well? As I understand - I need the USb connection when configuring - but not really after that, unless I need to make a configuration change (or firmware update iirc). So if I understand right, no advantage to permanent USB connection other than not having to futz with plugging in each device for various updates or configuring. Side note: iirc USB configuring and updating must be done prior to aquabus connection - right?


----------



## Jakusonfire

Yep you can connect the Aquabus devices any way, the split doesn't need to be right at the Aquaero. The only thing is some MPS sensors need to use all 4 pins so they couldn't be connected after a poweradjust if not using USB

There is one advantage to permanent USB but I think it only applies to the USB d5 ... to get actual pump speed into aquasuite it must be by USB. I think the other devices give all the necessary data by Aquabus.

When connecting mine I just plugged everything in (USB & Aquabus) and configured and updated. There was no need to not connect the Aquabus at first.


----------



## Shoggy

The aqubus works as a real bus system so the devices are identified by their ID numbers (which you have to assign first). So there is no specific way to connect everything. It only must be connected in some way.

There is no need to let everything connected via USB but also keep in mind that the aquabus only offers a very limited amount of features. For example the flow sensor will only provide its flow rate and temperature sensors or a pump only allows to set the speed.

When you connect something to the aquabus that is not already connected to the PSU, you also have to use a 4-pin connection. Otherwise this device will get no power. Using a 3-pin connection is also possible but then USB must be also connected to power this device.


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fast_fate*
> 
> Cheers Mate
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I ended up getting an inline panel flow meter, so I could check with the loop running.
> It is very restrictive with the adjustable flow control but doesn't matter for calibration purposes.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With that in line I was able to alter the Aquaero PPL setting on the fly to match the panel flow meter's reading.
> 
> To confirm the new PPL setting and resulting flow reading I took the rpm signal wire from the AC flow meter cable and hooked it onto a fan channel to get the rpm reading.
> I used Martin's formula of rpm x .0034 to give a GPM flow rate.
> This worked out to be a very accurate and the full rpm range (governed by adjusting the flow with inline tap) matched the Aquaero and the panel flow meter readings
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I would recommend using the paddle wheel's rpm reading to calibrate the AC flow meter to everyone
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> From all this I am thinking that the calibration is making allowances for how freely (or not) the paddle wheel in the flow meter spins.
> 
> My PPL number ended up being 146, which is quite different from the factory 169 setting or Martin's recommended numbers.
> That PPL difference was up to 1.2 lmp or 0.3 gpm on the flow readings, so definitely worth calibrating the unit.
> Glad you found the cause of the problem and at worst only a fan damaged.


I came close to getting something like one of those but couldn't find one in the right range. Where did you get yours and what did it cost?
I have two MPS 400 meters on the way and was going to just use the mechanical to calibrate them but something more accurate would be nice.


----------



## WiLd FyeR

I'm debating on getting an Aquearo 5/6 vs a Lamptron. The Aquearo just seems overwhelming.


----------



## fast_fate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> I came close to getting something like one of those but couldn't find one in the right range. Where did you get yours and what did it cost?
> I have two MPS 400 meters on the way and was going to just use the mechanical to calibrate them but something more accurate would be nice.


Couldn't find local in Perth that didn't cost an absolute fortune.
The one I got (from the pic) is a Chinese knock off I ordered from fleBay.
It's very easy to take the readings, it's listed as +- 4% accuracy.
It cost $35 with free postage.

I also placed an order from the US for a couple of 12" King Instrument ones.
Postage on those wasn't very nice, but of well.
I plan to keep testing stuff so I decided to start accumulating some better test gear that I'll need.

Dwyer office is in Sydney - maybe you could get down there and get from them.
When I called them they would sell to general public, but freight only so was too expensive


----------



## riesscar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiLd FyeR*
> 
> I'm debating on getting an Aquearo 5/6 vs a Lamptron. The Aquearo just seems overwhelming.


Well, I'm not sure if you've looked at the price tags... but if money is no object I would definitely go with the Aquaero. The feature list and particularly the true PWM capability make it a far superior product. It's really not that complicated to use. If you're on the forums here, I suspect that a little reading and a brief learning curve will be enough for you to get great use out of the Aquaero. Now if money matters, that's a different story.

If you want the best fan controller, get the Aquaero









-Carson


----------



## WiLd FyeR

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *riesscar*
> 
> Well, I'm not sure if you've looked at the price tags... but if money is no object I would definitely go with the Aquaero. The feature list and particularly the true PWM capability make it a far superior product. It's really not that complicated to use. If you're on the forums here, I suspect that a little reading and a brief learning curve will be enough for you to get great use out of the Aquaero. Now if money matters, that's a different story.
> 
> If you want the best fan controller, get the Aquaero
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -Carson


Thanks for the chiming in REP+







So which one do you recommend, 5 or 6?


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiLd FyeR*
> 
> I'm debating on getting an Aquearo 5/6 vs a Lamptron. The Aquearo just seems overwhelming.


I went with the lamptron c611. Excellent fan controller but the Aquaero is in a different league. 6 months latter and ta-da I am using the Aquaero. Save your money and go with the aquaero. The capability of using PWM is almost unique (there is one or two other fan controllers from zalman that can do that) not to mention the software control that after you have it there i no coming back. I would go with the Aq 6 since the difference in price is not so much.


----------



## riesscar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiLd FyeR*
> 
> Thanks for the chiming in REP+
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So which one do you recommend, 5 or 6?


The AQ6 for sure. Version 6 has several new features, most importantly full PWM control on all four channels -- as opposed to just one 1 (the fourth) on the AQ5. The price differential is also not that great, so definitely get the most recent product.

-Carson


----------



## WiLd FyeR

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> I went with the lamptron c611. Excellent fan controller but the Aquaero is in a different league. 6 months latter and ta-da I am using the Aquaero. Save your money and go with the aquaero. The capability of using PWM is almost unique (there one or two other fan controllers from zalman that can do that) not to mention the software control that after you have it there i no coming back. I would go with the Aq 6 since the difference in price is not so much.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *riesscar*
> 
> The AQ6 for sure. Version 6 has several new features, most importantly full PWM control on all four channels -- as opposed to just one 1 (the fourth) on the AQ5. The price differential is also not that great, so definitely get the most recent product.
> 
> -Carson


Great thanks REP+







Should I get the remote to?


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiLd FyeR*
> 
> Great thanks REP+
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Should I get the remote to?


Again the difference in price is so small that I would go with the xt. But notice that the aq 6 with and without the remote (xt x pro) have different front panels; the pro version you can get the remote latter if you want but the front panel would still be different. Grab the one appeals more to you and if you have a black case remember to order the black faceplate too.


----------



## WiLd FyeR

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Again the difference in price is so small that I would go with the xt. But notice that the aq 6 with and without the remote (xt x pro) have different front panels; the pro version you can get the remote latter if you want but the front panel would still be different. Grab the one appeals more to you and if you have a black case remember to order the black faceplate too.


Great good to know, is there anything else I should get? USB extension?


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiLd FyeR*
> 
> I'm debating on getting an Aquearo 5/6 vs a Lamptron. The Aquearo just seems overwhelming.


It is if you insist on using everything all at once.

If you go about it in small bites then its much simpler,it is,at the end of the day, just a fan controller.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiLd FyeR*
> 
> Great good to know, is there anything else I should get? USB extension?


it comes with usb cable and 4 temp sensor.


----------



## WiLd FyeR

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> it comes with usb cable and 4 temp sensor.


I'm guessing the USB cable is long enough.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiLd FyeR*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> it comes with usb cable and 4 temp sensor.
> 
> 
> 
> I'm guessing the USB cable is long enough.
Click to expand...

You would be advised to buy an aftermarket braided one,the cables are....not pretty.


----------



## WiLd FyeR

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> You would be advised to buy an aftermarket braided one,the cables are....not pretty.


Do you happen to know what the USB extension would be called? Tried searching but nothing coming up except for Usb hubs.


----------



## WiLd FyeR

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiLd FyeR*
> 
> Do you happen to know what the USB extension would be called? Tried searching but nothing coming up except for Usb hubs.


Well, confused now. How many pins should it be, 4 or 9?


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiLd FyeR*
> 
> Do you happen to know what the USB extension would be called? Tried searching but nothing coming up except for Usb hubs.


is this one. http://shop.aquacomputer.de/product_info.php?products_id=2573

You can always buy it and ask performance pc to sleeve it for you in the color you want. In fact if you buy the aquaero from them or frozencpu you can ask if they will sleeve it for you the cable in the box...no need to buy a new one.


----------



## WiLd FyeR

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> is this one. http://shop.aquacomputer.de/product_info.php?products_id=2573
> 
> You can always buy it and ask performance pc to sleeve it for you in the color you want. In fact if you buy the aquaero from them or frozencpu you can ask if they will sleeve it for you the cable in the box...no need to buy a new one.


That looks like a female to female. Shouldn't it be male to female extension


----------



## Gabrielzm

Nope mate. female to female. The usb port in the aquaero as well as in the MB are male.


----------



## WiLd FyeR

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Nope mate. female to female. The usb port in the aquaero as well as in the MB are male.


Great REP+







, ordered the 6 xt, black faceplate and USB connection. Hopefully they can get it packed before FedEx arrives so that I can receive it by tomorrow. Always nice to get toys by Friday.


----------



## Shoggy

The mentioned cable is exactly the same that already comes with the aquaero. This one can not be used as an extension or you have to plug a multi-pin connector between them.


----------



## VSG

For clarity's sake:


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The mentioned cable is exactly the same that already comes with the aquaero. This one can not be used as an extension or you have to plug a multi-pin connector between them.


Yes I did mention that to Wild Flyer including the part that is included in the box. Not sure he wants an extension however. It seems he/she was asking about the original cable but with a different sleeve following B-neg advice. If you do want an extension to the cable then yes you will need a male to female usb. Thks Shoggy to bring this up.


----------



## WiLd FyeR

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Yes I did mention that to Wild Flyer including the part that is included in the box. Not sure he wants an extension however. It seems he/she was asking about the original cable but with a different sleeve following B-neg advice. If you do want an extension to the cable then yes you will need a male to female usb. Thks Shoggy to bring this up.


Not a problem, I was lost at first but it came around to me on what you guys were talking about. Thanks for the help. I'm sure I'll be around for awhile asking for help.

Wow.. PPCS is quick, just got a notice that it was shipped. So we shall see...


----------



## 4WDBenio

So what's the news on the new Poweradjust 3 USB vs the Older Poweradjust 2?


----------



## Shoggy

The poweradjust 3 uses a digital switching controller now - like the aquaero 6 series. This allows more power and a much lower operating temperature. The features and connectors are the same as the poweradjust 2.

Oh, and it has a blue LED now


----------



## VSG

Shoggy, any plans for a stronger RGB led controller like what Jaeks (not sure I spelled that right) used to make?


----------



## JLMS2010

I know it's early and a Friday, but how do you adjust the clock on the 6 XT?


----------



## Jakusonfire

On the device ... Menu - System - Time and date

In Aquasuite ... Aquaero - System - Time Settings


----------



## JLMS2010

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> On the device ... Menu - System - Time and date
> 
> In Aquasuite ... Aquaero - System - Time Settings


Hmm...I did the one in Aquasuite as "admin" and it would only let me change the time zone, nothing else. I'll have to look again, I might have missed something.


----------



## Shoggy

The software takes the time from your system. It can not be adjusted manually. You can set it manually in the device but in this case you would have to stop the Aqua Computer Service because it syncs the time and would overwrite your settings.


----------



## JLMS2010

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> The software takes the time from your system. It can not be adjusted manually. You can set it manually in the device but in this case you would have to stop the Aqua Computer Service because it syncs the time and would overwrite your settings.


I've tried to change the time zone settings in Aquauite, but nothing that will match the current time. I've checked my system time and it's correct (EST)


----------



## Shoggy

OK, the other way: which time does the aquaero show and which time is it for real? Is the time zone on your PC also correct? - Just a correct time alone is not enough because the aquasuite will incorporate this setting.


----------



## fast_fate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *4WDBenio*
> 
> So what's the news on the new Poweradjust 3 USB vs the Older Poweradjust 2?


and here I am still making work around for the original Power Amp








The Power Amp can put out 3.5 amp which can come in handy for a massive fan bank all from one Aquaero fan channel.
But has a maximum output of 10.5 volt with 0.2 amp.
The voltage lowers as the amperage draw increases, with 2amp about 10v.
I think Power Amp was released with Aquaero 4 to compensate for low 1 amp per channel rating.
Aquaero 5 users would have found it handy also with the 1.65 amp channels.
Aquaero 6 having 2.5 amp per channel - Power Amp becomes almost redundant.

Looks like 2.5 amp for PA3 (without heatsink) compared to the 2.1 amp on PA2 - nice improvement









My workaround is for getting back the 12v output back (that Power Amp loses) if required, when benching or whatever reason that you want the fan channel to have 12v back.

Not sure what kind of voltage drop, if any, that the Power Adjust units apply.
So please don't get confused, my work around is for the older Power Amp unit, which is just amp booster, no USB or any other connections.


Spoiler: testing time - single fan



In the first pic you can see that Aquaero is reading 100% power for the fan channel and says 12v.
It is not what the fan is receiving though - the power amp is supplying power to the fan and the volts gauge is correct, reading it at 10.5 v
987 is the fan rpm



Here the Power Amp is still supplying power but the fan output on the Aquaero has been dropped to 60%
This demonstrates that I can lower the voltage of the fan channel, BUT Aquaero still gives wrong volts and amps readings.
At 60% the Power Amp puts out 6.71 volts with this single fan being powered.
rpm reading now 705



in the last pic I left the Aquaero power at 60% (though doing this will start to heat the unit up I think)
BUT the switch is flicked to the 12v circuit from the psu
Aquaero still displays the 7.2 volts it is putting out the fan channel.
Now notice the rpm reading is 1113 though
and the volts gauge up top is reading 12.3 volts - straight from the PSU

I love working models that work


----------



## JLMS2010

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> OK, the other way: which time does the aquaero show and which time is it for real? Is the time zone on your PC also correct? - Just a correct time alone is not enough because the aquasuite will incorporate this setting.


Yes, time zone on my PC is correct and the Aquaero is 6 hours fast with time zone setting 1 in Aquasuite. I've tried some other time zone settings in Aquasuite, but didn't seem to go the right way. I never tried a negative setting though.


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JLMS2010*
> 
> Yes, time zone on my PC is correct and the Aquaero is 6 hours fast with time zone setting 1 in Aquasuite. I've tried some other time zone settings in Aquasuite, but didn't seem to go the right way. I never tried a negative setting though.


Sounds like you live in the States, in the eastern half. Time zone should be UTC-5 or UTC-6.


----------



## JLMS2010

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> Sounds like you live in the States, in the eastern half. Time zone should be UTC-5 or UTC-6.


Ahh well that would be my problem then!


----------



## Nichismo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Can I also join?


hey guys

has anyone bought a power adjust bracket that is stainless steel instead of the black aluminum? It seems I can only find the stainless steel silver versions outside of the U.S....

I have two MCP35x in my current setup and I need a way to connect them to my new XT 6


----------



## Buzz247

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nichismo*
> 
> hey guys
> 
> has anyone bought a power adjust bracket that is stainless steel instead of the black aluminum? It seems I can only find the stainless steel silver versions outside of the U.S....
> 
> I have two MCP35x in my current setup and I need a way to connect them to my new XT 6


if I am understanding your question right, are you shipping to US location or outside US location? The black anodized is a separate order item and not as common to find as the "silver" version with many retailers. Some black anodized are so unusual I had to place orders from ireland and germany to get them ex: black face for multiswitch


----------



## fast_fate

I am wondering if others would find it useful...I know I would








If when opening the information pages to be displayed, the Aquaero would display the current info page selected next to each of the 32 available page numbers.
If notes not taken or poor memory







and want to make changes, we need to scroll through every page - or just start from scratch








This is only If not connected to a running PC (and Aquasuite) of course.
But I think having the current info page displayed next to page number would be very handy.

@Shoggy Is this possible to be looked at for a future firmware update ?


----------



## Nichismo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Buzz247*
> 
> if I am understanding your question right, are you shipping to US location or outside US location? The black anodized is a separate order item and not as common to find as the "silver" version with many retailers. Some black anodized are so unusual I had to place orders from ireland and germany to get them ex: black face for multiswitch


This, but in silver:

http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=32433

I have only seen the stainless silver one on Aquacomputers website, and a UK website

I live in the states


----------



## dynomyt

Long time reader of the forums. I've been saving up off and on for the past few years to build my own custom loops. After going through all I wanted to do, reading all the reviews, researching the components that I liked the reviews on/looks of, I decided to go all out and just build my new dream rig. I'm going to list what parts I have for a complete picture. I'm hoping someone can offer some advice on how to hook up to my Aquaero 6 XT correctly.

Here's what I have bought:

Aquaero 6XT
3 Aquastream XT Ultras
8 Corsair AF120 LED fans
4 Corsair performance AF120 fans
1 Corsair AF140 LED fans
2 Alphacool XT60 480MM Radiators
2 XSPC 240 MM reservoirs
EK Supremacy cpu block
Gigabyte mosfet block built into mobo
2 EK F780 full cover water blocks with backplate

combination of Koolance QD3 and bitspower fittings with 10/13 mm tubing
Running distilled h20

All packed into a Corsair 900D with a corsair 1200i running the power
running intel 4790k
dual EVGA 780 GTX, with 6GB Ram

I'm setting up my first loop to be
reservoir->pump->pump->cpu block->mosfet block-> radiator-> reservoir

I didn't like the flow numbers I was getting with a single XT pump, so I put a second pump in, flow is great now. I think all the QD connectors I put on were causing me some issues, as well as 2 90 degree bends.

second loop is:
reservoir->pump->parallel ek fc780 block (with ek parallel block)->radiator->reservoir

I'm using modtoys fan headers, to create 4 fan zones (1 per zone)
top of cpu radiator (pull)
bottom of cpu radiator (push)
top of vga radiator (pull)
case intake (dual 120mm) and out with 140MM

My Problem/concern: I'm planning to hook up all 3 XT Ultra pumps via USB, and would also like to hook them up to the Aquaero 6 on Aquabus. But, from everything that I've read/seen, you can only have 2 XT Ultras hooked up to 1 Aquaero 6.

I haven't powered on the actual system yet to do windows install, I'm still working out all the lines, verifying that I don't have any leaks, and cleaning up all the power lines. As such, I haven't had a chance to play with the aquasuite software, I'm just working with the Aquaero 6 controlling and running everything. Hence where/why I wanted to figure out the best way to connect the Ultra XTs to the Aquaero controller.

Thanks for any help you can provide to the noob


----------



## Ironsmack

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> The poweradjust 3 uses a digital switching controller now - like the aquaero 6 series. This allows more power and a much lower operating temperature. The features and connectors are the same as the poweradjust 2.
> 
> Oh, and it has a blue LED now


Would I be able to use the poweradjust 3 with 5 LT?

Or is it strictly for the 6?


----------



## fast_fate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ironsmack*
> 
> Would I be able to use the poweradjust 3 with 5 LT?
> 
> Or is it strictly for the 6?


Check out the very 1st line from the Aqua Computer site









The poweradjust 3 is a versatile single channel fan or pump controller that can also be used as an aquabus expansion device for an aquaero 5 or aquaero 6 unit.


----------



## Buzz247

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nichismo*
> 
> This, but in silver:
> 
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=32433
> 
> I have only seen the stainless silver one on Aquacomputers website, and a UK website
> 
> I live in the states


Well there's an interesting situation - prior the black was harder to find. guessing the new series coming out has changed inventory levels. I can't find anything in North America period for the silver. Unless someone comes up with something, overseas is your only option. I know previously, when I simply needed a black faceplate for the multiswitch, I emailed/pm'd shoggy and got him to do a custom order to avoid the minimum $20USd shipping


----------



## Ironsmack

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fast_fate*
> 
> Check out the very 1st line from the Aqua Computer site
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The poweradjust 3 is a versatile single channel fan or pump controller that can also be used as an aquabus expansion device for an aquaero 5 or aquaero 6 unit.


DOH! Thanks man!


----------



## riesscar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nichismo*
> 
> This, but in silver:
> 
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=32433
> 
> I have only seen the stainless silver one on Aquacomputers website, and a UK website
> 
> I live in the states


You could always paint it







I'm a big fan of painting pieces to fit my color scheme, but that's me. Just remove the faceplate and get some auto body silver metallic paint... preferably enamel.

-Carson


----------



## iBored

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> They have never come with the cable.
> 
> "Additional components are required (see compatibility list) as well as a suitable connection cable (see art. no. 53027), these are not included in delivery!"


I wish I saw that earlier.

Questions:
1. Where can I find the connector for the flow sensor to custom make a cable?
2. Which connector do I connect the D5 pwm connector to on the AQ6?
3. My noiseblocker pl2's have rpm reading on the aq6, but my gt ap15's don't. Why???


----------



## Ironsmack

Hey guys,

Im finalizing my order with FCPU.

I have the Aquaero LT and need to control 16 AP-15's (8 in each rad). I also have this:

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/23626/cab-1955/Darkside_3-Pin_Quad_Radiator_Push_Pull_8x_Fan_Y_Splitter_Cable_-_Jet_Black_Sleeved.html

and thinking of getting this one as well:

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/14664/ele-990/4-Pin_Power_Distribution_PCB_5xWay_Block_MMT-PCB-4-53.html

Now my plan is:

16 AP15's -> Y splitter cables -> PCB 5 way block -> Aquaero LT. So i can save the other (2) 3-pin connector on the 5 LT. Would this work?

Or am i better of with the 16 AP15's -> power adjust -> Aquaero LT?


----------



## side37

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ironsmack*
> 
> Now my plan is:
> 
> 16 AP15's -> Y splitter cables -> PCB 5 way block -> Aquaero LT. So i can save the other (2) 3-pin connector on the 5 LT. Would this work?
> 
> Or am i better of with the 16 AP15's -> power adjust -> Aquaero LT?


I have 9 AP-15s on an AQ6 and at full power it reports 0.7~ amps. The fan channels on the AQ5 can handle up to 1.65 amps so lets say 16 AP-15s will pull about 1.3 amps then you could probably squeeze them onto 1 channel.

The only concern I'd have would be the temperature of the fan amplifier (will you use the heatsink?) and if the Aquaero will handle the startup current to spin up all 16 fans at once.

Edit: Also with the fan splitters check if they connect up the RPM wire to all fans. Some splitter cables like Bitfenix connect the RPM wire on all outputs while others like some Phobya ones only connect 1 fan. You will get erratic RPM readings on the Aquaero if you have more than 1 fan reporting it's RPM on a fan channel.


----------



## ozzy1925

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *side37*
> 
> Edit: Also with the fan splitters check if they connect up the RPM wire to all fans. Some splitter cables like Bitfenix connect the RPM wire on all outputs while others like some Phobya ones only connect 1 fan. You will get erratic RPM readings on the Aquaero if you have more than 1 fan reporting it's RPM on a fan channel.


hi, i also need pwm y cable for my 18 fans (needs to work with 6xt) can you link me 1 please?


----------



## WHIMington

Guys I ran into a big problem, I just received my red heat sink and black front panel from PPCS today, the panel is very slightly bent but can be straighten carefully, no big deal, however when I install the heat sink, I wasn't paying too much attention when tightening the screws, and then I heard a cracking noise, I removed the heat sinks for an inspections and find that the left hand side what I believed to be a bright brown capacitor have chipped












It seems that the capacitor is being soldered too high and the cutouts of the heat sink did not clear the capacitor enough. Is the unit still operational?









Edit: Both the mounting plate and the capacitor itself is already slightly bent outwards to clear of the heat sink when it comes, but clearly the angle is far from enough


----------



## Ironsmack

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *side37*
> 
> I have 9 AP-15s on an AQ6 and at full power it reports 0.7~ amps. The fan channels on the AQ5 can handle up to 1.65 amps so lets say 16 AP-15s will pull about 1.3 amps then you could probably squeeze them onto 1 channel.
> 
> The only concern I'd have would be the temperature of the fan amplifier (will you use the heatsink?) and if the Aquaero will handle the startup current to spin up all 16 fans at once.
> 
> Edit: Also with the fan splitters check if they connect up the RPM wire to all fans. Some splitter cables like Bitfenix connect the RPM wire on all outputs while others like some Phobya ones only connect 1 fan. You will get erratic RPM readings on the Aquaero if you have more than 1 fan reporting it's RPM on a fan channel.


I have the WB installed on it already. Plus there will be a fan blowing through the 5 LT.

The darkside Y cables I have only report on one fan as well.

Reason why I planned it that way, because I have (3) AP-29's and (3) AP-14's for case fans and want to make sure they're controllable by the Aquaero.


----------



## Ragpad

@Shoggy:

Does the Aquaero 6Pro now work with Swiftech MCP-655-PWM-Drive pumps? Thanks in advance!

And, many thanks to everyone here for the enlightenment.


----------



## riesscar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ragpad*
> 
> @Shoggy:
> 
> Does the Aquaero 6Pro now work with Swiftech MCP-655-PWM-Drive pumps? Thanks in advance!
> 
> And, many thanks to everyone here for the enlightenment.


If by 'works' you mean provide PWM control, then no; however, as IT Diva, Shoggy and many others have done well to explain, the issue lies not with the Aquaero, but with the failure of Swiftech to adhere to standard PWM protocol. Having said that, IT Diva has provided us with an easy fix to the issue, involving simple soldering of one diode and 2 resistors (if you don't know what these are, don't worry... neither did I







). Check out post 56 and post 63. The fix corrects the pump not having a pull-up resistor.

-Carson


----------



## Ragpad

Carson:

Thanks for the fast response, which is much appreciated. Yes, I did mean the ("true") PWM control. It is a shame that Swiftech has not fixed this!)


----------



## riesscar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ragpad*
> 
> Carson:
> 
> Thanks for the fast response, which is much appreciated. Yes, I did mean the ("true") PWM control. It is a shame that Swiftech has not fixed this!)


No problem... I was helped too







. I agree that Swiftech has shirked its responsibility to fix this... at least they could offer an OEM resistor cable for purchase... luckily we have OCN!

-Carson


----------



## Ragpad

Yes, indeed! I wonder is Swiftech is even aware of it. (It very probably is.). Thanks to OCN - especially, Darlene and many others, who have spent countless hours and dollars so that noobs like me would not have to muck around fecklessly - I most likely will not buy the Swiftech's _assertedly_ (but not really?!) PWM pump. My personal thanks to all these guys!


----------



## VSG

Why are you guys blaming Swiftech? It is a Laing D5 PWM pump rebrand. Laing is at fault here. Other brands have rebranded this as well, Swiftech is just the most popular name.


----------



## Ragpad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> Yes
> Yes
> Yes


I have an "even stupider" question: Let us say that there are 18 fans ("push-pull" configured) on a radiator using the Swiftec 8-way PWM splitters. Do I have to use all the AQ6 fan channels; or can I use less than all four fan channels? (I have not decided on how best to divvy up the PWM connectors from the Watercool MO-RA3 140 radiator fans, in case you are wondering. As always, ideas are welcome and much appreciated.) Also, does anyone know if the BitFenix Spectre Pro BFF-SPRO-P14025KK-RP 140mm PWM Case Fan works well with AQ6? Thanks!


----------



## Ragpad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Why are you guys blaming Swiftech? It is a Laing D5 PWM pump rebrand. Laing is at fault here. Other brands have rebranded this as well, Swiftech is just the most popular name.


@geggeg:

Yes, you are correct in that they all "rebrand" the pumps made by Laing. However, as a "rebranding" (slapping its own very identity on the item) vendor, one need insure that it conforms to the "standards," before it sells something to the public (especially if it is aware of the issues). Even otherwise, Swiftech should have at the very least fixed the problem (I candidly do not know if it has, but "assuming" that it has not). However, I do see your point of view. Thanks!


----------



## VSG

Well Swiftech is making their own pumps now starting with the mcp50x. So let @BramSLI1 know of your interest in either a fixed D5 PWM or their own implementation of it.


----------



## Ragpad

@
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Well Swiftech is making their own pumps now starting with the mcp50x. So let @BramSLI1 know of your interest in either a fixed D5 PWM or their own implementation of it.


Thanks @geggeg for the information. I shall contact Swiftech. (I do like their products.) Much obliged!


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ragpad*
> 
> Carson:
> 
> Thanks for the fast response, which is much appreciated. Yes, I did mean the ("true") PWM control. It is a shame that Swiftech has not fixed this!)


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *riesscar*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ragpad*
> 
> Carson:
> 
> Thanks for the fast response, which is much appreciated. Yes, I did mean the ("true") PWM control. It is a shame that Swiftech has not fixed this!)
> 
> 
> 
> No problem... I was helped too
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . I agree that Swiftech has shirked its responsibility to fix this... at least they could offer an OEM resistor cable for purchase... luckily we have OCN!
> 
> -Carson
Click to expand...

I'd hesitate to dump it on Swiftech . . . .

It's a design feature that Lang built into the electronic control so that the pump only runs at a moderate 60% when there's is no PWM connection, instead of at max speed like the 35X or fans in general.

Until the Aquaero, it was a useful compromise, since generally speaking, mobos have pullups on the CPU fan header, even though they don't have to by the Intel standard, and there was no real issue.

It would be nice to see, on a PCB revision sometime in the near future, the option in Aquasuite to enable a pullup for at least 1 channel.

Or as mentioned, for Swiftech to offer an extension with the pullup mod built in.

Darlene


----------



## riesscar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> I'd hesitate to dump it on Swiftech . . . .
> 
> It's a design feature that Lang built into the electronic control so that the pump only runs at a moderate 60% when there's is no PWM connection, instead of at max speed like the 35X or fans in general.
> 
> Until the Aquaero, it was a useful compromise, since generally speaking, mobos have pullups on the CPU fan header, even though they don't have to by the Intel standard, and there was no real issue.
> 
> It would be nice to see, on a PCB revision sometime in the near future, the option in Aquasuite to enable a pullup for at least 1 channel.
> 
> Or as mentioned, for Swiftech to offer an extension with the pullup mod built in.
> 
> Darlene


Point taken regarding the Laing D5 being rebranded. Why would the pump be designed to run at 60% without pwm, though? I've noticed that when leak testing, my 35x is far more powerful than my D5... is this for bleeding air or something? Oh, and while I'm here I wanted to ask: does the color of the wire matter or just the pin assignment when doing the D5 mid? I ask because I'm making an extension cable using a PWM extension from Noctua, and they have the green and blue wires reversed: the green is on the 3rd pin and the blue is on the 4th. It's a fan extension cable, and I've started to wonder if the wire gauge is the same as those on a pump.

Thanks,

Carson


----------



## side37

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ozzy1925*
> 
> hi, i also need pwm y cable for my 18 fans (needs to work with 6xt) can you link me 1 please?


For PWM splitters I've used the ModRight ones like http://www.frozencpu.com/products/16486/cab-1002/ModRight_Black-Out_Series_4-Pin_PWM_Y_Cable_-_24.html and I also have a Phobya one, this one I think http://www.aquatuning.co.uk/air-cooling/fan-cables-und-adaptors/10217/phobya-y-cable-4pin-pwm-to-3x-4pin-pwm-30cm-black. Neither required modification. If you do end up with a cable that connects all fan RPM wires then it's easy enough to just de-pin the yellow wire from all but one of the fan plugs.

Edit: This splitter looks good too http://www.frozencpu.com/products/13548/cab-464/Akasa_Flexa_FP5_PWM_5-Way_Splitter_-_Smart_Fan_Cable_AK-CBFA03-45.html In the product images you can see in the shot showing the connectors all but 1 are missing the RPM pin.


----------



## Ragpad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ragpad*
> 
> @
> Thanks @geggeg for the information. I shall contact Swiftech. (I do like their products.) Much obliged!


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> I'd hesitate to dump it on Swiftech . . . .
> 
> It's a design feature that Lang built into the electronic control so that the pump only runs at a moderate 60% when there's is no PWM connection, instead of at max speed like the 35X or fans in general.
> 
> Until the Aquaero, it was a useful compromise, since generally speaking, mobos have pullups on the CPU fan header, even though they don't have to by the Intel standard, and there was no real issue.
> 
> It would be nice to see, on a PCB revision sometime in the near future, the option in Aquasuite to enable a pullup for at least 1 channel.
> 
> Or as mentioned, for Swiftech to offer an extension with the pullup mod built in.
> 
> Darlene


Darlene:

Thanks for the information. Yes, it would certainly be nice if Swiftech/AquaComputer could incorporate the suggested chages, or even as an accessory, but ...


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *riesscar*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> I'd hesitate to dump it on Swiftech . . . .
> 
> It's a design feature that Lang built into the electronic control so that the pump only runs at a moderate 60% when there's is no PWM connection, instead of at max speed like the 35X or fans in general.
> 
> Until the Aquaero, it was a useful compromise, since generally speaking, mobos have pullups on the CPU fan header, even though they don't have to by the Intel standard, and there was no real issue.
> 
> It would be nice to see, on a PCB revision sometime in the near future, the option in Aquasuite to enable a pullup for at least 1 channel.
> 
> Or as mentioned, for Swiftech to offer an extension with the pullup mod built in.
> 
> Darlene
> 
> 
> 
> Point taken regarding the Laing D5 being rebranded. Why would the pump be designed to run at 60% without pwm, though? I've noticed that when leak testing, my 35x is far more powerful than my D5... is this for bleeding air or something? Oh, and while I'm here I wanted to ask: does the color of the wire matter or just the pin assignment when doing the D5 mid? I ask because I'm making an extension cable using a PWM extension from Noctua, and they have the green and blue wires reversed: the green is on the 3rd pin and the blue is on the 4th. It's a fan extension cable, and I've started to wonder if the wire gauge is the same as those on a pump.
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Carson
Click to expand...

The D5 's are pretty powerful, most installations don't need more than about 60% anyway, and not everyone has a PWM control, especially when first bleeding, so the feature makes the pump useful for more scenarios.

Wire color makes no difference, . . .

It's only pin position that's important.

As long as the 4th pin goes to the 4th pin and the 3rd pin to the 3rd pin, you're good.

The Zener diode polarity is important, the resistors can go either way.

D.


----------



## riesscar

@IT Diva,

Excellent. Thanks so much for everything.

-Carson


----------



## ozzy1925

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *side37*
> 
> For PWM splitters I've used the ModRight ones like http://www.frozencpu.com/products/16486/cab-1002/ModRight_Black-Out_Series_4-Pin_PWM_Y_Cable_-_24.html and I also have a Phobya one, this one I think http://www.aquatuning.co.uk/air-cooling/fan-cables-und-adaptors/10217/phobya-y-cable-4pin-pwm-to-3x-4pin-pwm-30cm-black. Neither required modification. If you do end up with a cable that connects all fan RPM wires then it's easy enough to just de-pin the yellow wire from all but one of the fan plugs.
> 
> Edit: This splitter looks good too http://www.frozencpu.com/products/13548/cab-464/Akasa_Flexa_FP5_PWM_5-Way_Splitter_-_Smart_Fan_Cable_AK-CBFA03-45.html In the product images you can see in the shot showing the connectors all but 1 are missing the RPM pin.


thanks, as i understand with these i can only see the plugged fan rpm.Is there any splitter that can show me each fan rpms?


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ozzy1925*
> 
> thanks, as i understand with these i can only see the plugged fan rpm.Is there any splitter that can show me each fan rpms?


That's exactly what you do not want. A single header on a fan controller or motherboard only has one tach pin and is only capable of correctly reading the rpm from a single fan. If more than one fan is connected to it and reporting rpm to the same header it corrupts the tach signal and will not be read correctly by the fan controller or motherboard. Ideally you will only have all of the same type fan connected to a channel so the rpm from one will be indicative of the rpm on all of them at that same voltage or PWM signal setting. Unfortunately some fan splitter cables and most PCB/Hub type splitters have the tach signal active to all the fans instead of only one. If that's the case and you want to be able to have the correct rpm displayed on the fan controller then you will need to modify it.


----------



## ozzy1925

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> That's exactly what you do not want. A single header on a fan controller or motherboard only has one tach pin and is only capable of correctly reading the rpm from a single fan. If more than one fan is connected to it and reporting rpm to the same header it corrupts the tach signal and will not be read correctly by the fan controller or motherboard. Ideally you will only have all of the same type fan connected to a channel so the rpm from one will be indicative of the rpm on all of them at that same voltage or PWM signal setting. Unfortunately some fan splitter cables and most PCB/Hub type splitters have the tach signal active to all the fans instead of only one. If that's the case and you want to be able to have the correct rpm displayed on the fan controller then you will need to modify it.


thanks for the information so i will be buying 4 of these akasa pwm splitters:
http://www.amazon.co.uk/Akasa-AK-CBFA03-45-Flexa-Splitter-Cable/dp/B005EKU5CO
i hope it works with aq6xt


----------



## Costas

Anyone struck an issue running Aquasuite on their Win8.1 builds?

I have a new PC which has a new Win8.1 build with minimal 'other' software... Its basically a straight Win8.1 build plus my drivers etc for all my peripherals and not much else. I thought I'd be smart and load Aquasuite early on and set up my Aquaero....

Install goes A-Ok but when I try and run Aquasuite it returns an error - _"Visual C++ 2010 redistributable package not found"_

I noted someone else has experienced the same issue on the English section of the Aqua Computer forum and it was mentioned that Visual C++ 2010 redist 32 and 64 bit versions should be loaded as well a .NET v4.

Even though these are present on my Win8.1 build it still returns the same error when attempting to run the program.

Suspect Aquasuite is looking for a few more files which are not present but not sure what they are?


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ozzy1925*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> That's exactly what you do not want. A single header on a fan controller or motherboard only has one tach pin and is only capable of correctly reading the rpm from a single fan. If more than one fan is connected to it and reporting rpm to the same header it corrupts the tach signal and will not be read correctly by the fan controller or motherboard. Ideally you will only have all of the same type fan connected to a channel so the rpm from one will be indicative of the rpm on all of them at that same voltage or PWM signal setting. Unfortunately some fan splitter cables and most PCB/Hub type splitters have the tach signal active to all the fans instead of only one. If that's the case and you want to be able to have the correct rpm displayed on the fan controller then you will need to modify it.
> 
> 
> 
> thanks for the information so i will be buying 4 of these akasa pwm splitters:
> http://www.amazon.co.uk/Akasa-AK-CBFA03-45-Flexa-Splitter-Cable/dp/B005EKU5CO
> i hope it works with aq6xt
Click to expand...

Those should work just fine . . . .

The one thing you may need to do though, is to use a tiny side cutter tool and make the notch in the shielded connector wider if your fans have regular 4 pin plugs.

From the pic, and from experience, . . . . sometimes the shielded male connectors on extension cables have the notches at a width designed for 3 pin fan plugs.

True 4 pin shielded males have the notches at the edges for a normal 4 pin fan plug, and some even have an extra wide notch on the tack/pwm side to accommodate either 3 or 4 pin plugs, but I have gotten a few that have a narrow notch that only allows a 3 pin plug, unless you make it wider to fit the 4 pin plug.

Darlene


----------



## Costas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Costas*
> 
> Anyone struck an issue running Aquasuite on their Win8.1 builds?


OK folks - looks like I was bit hasty with my post as I just resolved the issue in the last few minutes...









I found that I had to load Service Pack 1 for both Visual C++ packages (x86 & x64) which fixed the problem....!


----------



## WiLd FyeR

I should be getting the Aquaero 6 xt by monday. Anything I should know before and after I set it up.


----------



## mandrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiLd FyeR*
> 
> I should be getting the Aquaero 6 xt by monday. Anything I should know before and after I set it up.


You should know how to connect everything, of course, before you ever power it up. Any questions come back here and I'm sure someone can help.


----------



## reklaw75

Hi guys,

I'm just putting together an Aquero 6 XT parts list from FrozenCPU and wanted to check the following parts will meet my goals (so i don't have to wear a huge shipping cost to Australia more than once







)

Goals:

1. To be able to control 10 x Corsair SP120 PWM High performance edition fans via the Aquero 6 / Aquasuite. (attached to 3 rads)
2. To be able to turn off the PC automatically in the event my D5 (XSPC Photon 170l D5 Vario combo) pump rpm signal goes to 0.

Parts in shopping cart:
1 x Aquacomputer Aquaero 6 XT USB Fan Controller / Touch Screen / Graphic LCD / Liquid System Controller w/ Remote (53146)
1 x Aquacomputer Aquaero Power Connect - 24 pin ATX Standby Power / ATX Break
3 x GELID PWM 1-to-4 Splitter Cable (with 1 x 4 pin Molex (4 x 4 Pin PWM Header, 1 x 4 Pin PWM Connector, 1 x 4 Pin Molex Header)

After reading the Aquero manual and some posts in overclock.net and other sources, i'm not 100% sure on exactly how i can get the system to shutdown using the ATX break cable.

Will the parts above achieve my goals and is anyone able to elaborate on how this should be connected up / configured? Any more parts i need to purchase?

Ta very much guys,

Bruce


----------



## Ragpad

Hey, guys!

I have a dumb question: What are those headers designated "PWM" on AQ6 used for? (Specifically, what devices can I connect to those?). Perhaps, this question has already been addressed; if so, then please forgive me and point me in the right direction. Thanks in advance!


----------



## riesscar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ragpad*
> 
> Hey, guys!
> 
> I have a dumb question: What are those headers designated "PWM" on AQ6 used for? (Specifically, what devices can I connect to those?). Perhaps, this question has already been addressed; if so, then please forgive me and point me in the right direction. Thanks in advance!


I know that at least one use is to dim LED's. I think that they are used for control of two pin devices in general. I am using it for my Darkside Dimmable LED's, which have two pin connections that are then connected to 3-pin fan pins (yet only two of the three are actually utilized). To use these ports, you'll need the 2-pin connector, which can be found here:
http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=36_48&products_id=36722

-Carson


----------



## Shoggy

At first:









And now back to work









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fast_fate*
> 
> I am wondering if others would find it useful...I know I would
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If when opening the information pages to be displayed, the Aquaero would display the current info page selected next to each of the 32 available page numbers.
> If notes not taken or poor memory
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and want to make changes, we need to scroll through every page - or just start from scratch
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is only If not connected to a running PC (and Aquasuite) of course.
> But I think having the current info page displayed next to page number would be very handy.
> 
> @Shoggy Is this possible to be looked at for a future firmware update ?


It was one of the first things that I complained about myself but unfortunately it can not be addressed because of the way how the internal management of these pages work. To get this slightly more organized it would require a lot of changes and work - not really worth the additional work in our opinion because most people us the software anyway.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dynomyt*
> 
> My Problem/concern: I'm planning to hook up all 3 XT Ultra pumps via USB, and would also like to hook them up to the Aquaero 6 on Aquabus. But, from everything that I've read/seen, you can only have 2 XT Ultras hooked up to 1 Aquaero 6.
> (...)
> Hence where/why I wanted to figure out the best way to connect the Ultra XTs to the Aquaero controller.


There is no way to control more than two aquastream Xt pumps from one aquaero. You will have to use USB for the third pump or you just let run all of them via USB since the aquabus offers no real advantage anyway. It only allows you to controll the speed of the pump in a limited range.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ironsmack*
> 
> Would I be able to use the poweradjust 3 with 5 LT?
> 
> Or is it strictly for the 6?


The poweradjust 3 is compatible to all devices of the aquaero 5 and 6 series.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WHIMington*
> 
> Guys I ran into a big problem, I just received my red heat sink and black front panel from PPCS today, the panel is very slightly bent but can be straighten carefully, no big deal, however when I install the heat sink, I wasn't paying too much attention when tightening the screws, and then I heard a cracking noise, I removed the heat sinks for an inspections and find that the left hand side what I believed to be a bright brown capacitor have chipped


Just bend it a bit more to the side. The part should be still OK. There is no problem to run the aquaero this way. Just in case the the part is damaged the aquaero will not start at all but it can not cause any further damages. In such a case this part can be also replaced by yourself or someone with some basic soldering skills.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ragpad*
> 
> Does the Aquaero 6Pro now work with Swiftech MCP-655-PWM-Drive pumps? Thanks in advance!


No, and it never will as long as the pump manufacturer does not take care about the PWM specifications. This pump needs a 5V pull-up circuit which we can not provide.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ragpad*
> 
> I have an "even stupider" question: Let us say that there are 18 fans ("push-pull" configured) on a radiator using the Swiftec 8-way PWM splitters. Do I have to use all the AQ6 fan channels; or can I use less than all four fan channels? (I have not decided on how best to divvy up the PWM connectors from the Watercool MO-RA3 140 radiator fans, in case you are wondering. As always, ideas are welcome and much appreciated.) Also, does anyone know if the BitFenix Spectre Pro BFF-SPRO-P14025KK-RP 140mm PWM Case Fan works well with AQ6? Thanks!


I have no experience with this fan. You should stay away from the Swiftech PWM splitter. There are more than enough users where it not work together with the aquaero. Just get a "normal" splitter or maybe even build your own with some plugs and wires. In theory there is no problem to control all fans from one channel (PWM signal) but it depends on the specific fan. If you want to do this I recommend to power the fans directly from the PSU so that the aquaero only has to control the PWM stuff.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *reklaw75*
> 
> Goals:
> 
> 1. To be able to control 10 x Corsair SP120 PWM High performance edition fans via the Aquero 6 / Aquasuite. (attached to 3 rads)
> 2. To be able to turn off the PC automatically in the event my D5 (XSPC Photon 170l D5 Vario combo) pump rpm signal goes to 0.
> 
> Parts in shopping cart:
> 1 x Aquacomputer Aquaero 6 XT USB Fan Controller / Touch Screen / Graphic LCD / Liquid System Controller w/ Remote (53146)
> 1 x Aquacomputer Aquaero Power Connect - 24 pin ATX Standby Power / ATX Break
> 3 x GELID PWM 1-to-4 Splitter Cable (with 1 x 4 pin Molex (4 x 4 Pin PWM Header, 1 x 4 Pin PWM Connector, 1 x 4 Pin Molex Header)
> 
> After reading the Aquero manual and some posts in overclock.net and other sources, i'm not 100% sure on exactly how i can get the system to shutdown using the ATX break cable.
> 
> Will the parts above achieve my goals and is anyone able to elaborate on how this should be connected up / configured? Any more parts i need to purchase?


As you might have already read here the SP120 PWM fans from Corsair cause some problems with the aquaero because of the way how they use PWM. There are some workarounds here in the topic.

To shutdown the system the mentioned adapter cable is OK but you also need a 3-pin relay plug to be able to connect it to the aquaero. In short words how it works: the green wire of the adapter cable will be cut and one end goes to pin goes to pin 1 of the relay plug and the other end to pin 3. In the aquasuite software you would set up one or more alarms and as action you add to switch the relay for two seconds.

If you want to use that I highly recommend to provoke such an event just to make sure that it will work correctly when really needed.

Besides that the aquaero can also send keyboard commands like regular shutdown or standby. So you could also set up a two-level system where at first step the aquaero tries to shutdown the system in a safe way and if this does not happen (Windows not able to close a program for example) the relay could do it the hard way.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ragpad*
> 
> I have a dumb question: What are those headers designated "PWM" on AQ6 used for? (Specifically, what devices can I connect to those?). Perhaps, this question has already been addressed; if so, then please forgive me and point me in the right direction. Thanks in advance!


The PWM headers provide a pulsed 12V signal and it is ideal to be used with LEDs. When used with single LEDs make sure to use a suitable resistor because otherwise they will burn down. When used with LED stripes be aware that some stripes might have some internal buffer electronic to compensate current fluctuations. Well, normally it is a good thing but in this case it would be a bad thing because it prevents you from dimming the stripes in a useful way.


----------



## VSG

Shoggy, why do you suggest staying away from the Swiftech splitter? It has been nothing but great for me so far so I am wondering what I am missing here.


----------



## Shoggy

Then you are the big exception. I know many customers that had nothing but problems with that adapter.


----------



## VSG

Weird, I got 4 of them (haven't opened up two yet) so I hope nothing happens. I got other splitters as well but none that do 8-way at this price. Cooler Master also rebrands this splitter and sells it for even cheaper now.


----------



## mandrix

I missed something somewhere along the line I guess....it must be just the Aquaero 6 that has problems controlling pwm D5's? I've had 2 pwm D5's running from one of my AQ5's Fan 4 header for quite a while. Never had any problem with the pwm function at all. Of course they are basically identical, but one is branded Swiftech and the other XSPC.
I have some intermittent problem with rpm not showing, (pump or wiring gremlin) but never pwm.


----------



## WiLd FyeR

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mandrix*
> 
> You should know how to connect everything, of course, before you ever power it up. Any questions come back here and I'm sure someone can help.


Thanks REP+







Don't I also have to check what Aquaero 6 xt version I receive?

So another question, how many PWM fans can one connection handle?


----------



## mandrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiLd FyeR*
> 
> Thanks REP+
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Don't I also have to check what Aquaero 6 xt version I receive?
> 
> So another question, how many PWM fans can one connection handle?


Not sure...maybe Shoggy will weigh in here and tell you.
I personally don't use any pwm fans, so it's not something I've given any thought to. From what I've read here, some fans are problematic and some aren't, due to the way pwm is implemented.
If you don't get an answer soon, try searching this thread.


----------



## WiLd FyeR

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mandrix*
> 
> Not sure...maybe Shoggy will weigh in here and tell you.
> I personally don't use any pwm fans, so it's not something I've given any thought to. From what I've read here, some fans are problematic and some aren't, due to the way pwm is implemented.
> If you don't get an answer soon, try searching this thread.


So just received the Aquaero 6 XT. Now just need to confirm on how to check if I have the updated version.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiLd FyeR*
> 
> So just received the Aquaero 6 XT. Now just need to confirm on how to check if I have the updated version.


http://www.overclock.net/t/1474470/ocn-aquaero-owners-club/620#post_22271863

here we go.

so, essentially you check that region for the number 470. If you have a 100 then you got the old model.

edit - Congratulations Shoggy. It was a fair result for the world cup since Germany was the best team on the tournament.


----------



## WiLd FyeR

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1474470/ocn-aquaero-owners-club/620#post_22271863
> 
> here we go.
> 
> so, essentially you check that region for the number 470. If you have a 100 then you got the old model.
> 
> edit - Congratulations Shoggy. It was a fair result for the world cup since Germany was the best team on the tournament.


Awesome, thanks for looking for me. REP+


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiLd FyeR*
> 
> Awesome, thanks for looking for me. REP+


No prob. BTW you should look at Namron guides to Aquaero. here is one for Auqaero 5 still very useful for Aq6 owners:

http://www.specialtechforums.co.uk/showthread.php?3393-NAMS-NEW-BASIC-GUIDE-to-the-AQUAERO-5&highlight=aquaero


----------



## WiLd FyeR

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> No prob. BTW you should look at Namron guides to Aquaero. here is one for Auqaero 5 still very useful for Aq6 owners:
> 
> http://www.specialtechforums.co.uk/showthread.php?3393-NAMS-NEW-BASIC-GUIDE-to-the-AQUAERO-5&highlight=aquaero


Thanks for the guide REP+









Wow, good thing for the iphone, the writing was really small. So the resistors I have says 473. I take it that its the updated version. Darn, also looks like I have an extra controller. Didn't know the XT 6 version would come with one, thought they were sold separately.

Also need help finding info on how many PWM fans one channel can handle.


----------



## Ragpad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiLd FyeR*
> 
> I should be getting the Aquaero 6 xt by monday. Anything I should know before and after I set it up.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *riesscar*
> 
> I know that at least one use is to dim LED's. I think that they are used for control of two pin devices in general. I am using it for my Darkside Dimmable LED's, which have two pin connections that are then connected to 3-pin fan pins (yet only two of the three are actually utilized). To use these ports, you'll need the 2-pin connector, which can be found here:
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=36_48&products_id=36722
> 
> -Carson


@riesscar

Carson:

Thanks, buddy!







Now, onto a follow-up stupid question: Is this header capable of providing PWM signal to Swiftech MCP35X2 pumps?


----------



## Ragpad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> At first:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And now back to work
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It was one of the first things that I complained about myself but unfortunately it can not be addressed because of the way how the internal management of these pages work. To get this slightly more organized it would require a lot of changes and work - not really worth the additional work in our opinion because most people us the software anyway.
> There is no way to control more than two aquastream Xt pumps from one aquaero. You will have to use USB for the third pump or you just let run all of them via USB since the aquabus offers no real advantage anyway. It only allows you to controll the speed of the pump in a limited range.
> The poweradjust 3 is compatible to all devices of the aquaero 5 and 6 series.
> Just bend it a bit more to the side. The part should be still OK. There is no problem to run the aquaero this way. Just in case the the part is damaged the aquaero will not start at all but it can not cause any further damages. In such a case this part can be also replaced by yourself or someone with some basic soldering skills.
> No, and it never will as long as the pump manufacturer does not take care about the PWM specifications. This pump needs a 5V pull-up circuit which we can not provide.
> I have no experience with this fan. You should stay away from the Swiftech PWM splitter. There are more than enough users where it not work together with the aquaero. Just get a "normal" splitter or maybe even build your own with some plugs and wires. In theory there is no problem to control all fans from one channel (PWM signal) but it depends on the specific fan. If you want to do this I recommend to power the fans directly from the PSU so that the aquaero only has to control the PWM stuff.
> As you might have already read here the SP120 PWM fans from Corsair cause some problems with the aquaero because of the way how they use PWM. There are some workarounds here in the topic.
> 
> To shutdown the system the mentioned adapter cable is OK but you also need a 3-pin relay plug to be able to connect it to the aquaero. In short words how it works: the green wire of the adapter cable will be cut and one end goes to pin goes to pin 1 of the relay plug and the other end to pin 3. In the aquasuite software you would set up one or more alarms and as action you add to switch the relay for two seconds.
> 
> If you want to use that I highly recommend to provoke such an event just to make sure that it will work correctly when really needed.
> 
> Besides that the aquaero can also send keyboard commands like regular shutdown or standby. So you could also set up a two-level system where at first step the aquaero tries to shutdown the system in a safe way and if this does not happen (Windows not able to close a program for example) the relay could do it the hard way.
> The PWM headers provide a pulsed 12V signal and it is ideal to be used with LEDs. When used with single LEDs make sure to use a suitable resistor because otherwise they will burn down. When used with LED stripes be aware that some stripes might have some internal buffer electronic to compensate current fluctuations. Well, normally it is a good thing but in this case it would be a bad thing because it prevents you from dimming the stripes in a useful way.


@Shoggy:

Firstly, thanks for the replies.







Is the PWM header on AQ6 capable of providing PWM signal to Swiftech MPC35X2 pumps? Also, I am a little surprised to hear that I should stay away from the Swiftech PWM splitters (contrary to what others on this forum have been saying)?! Could you kindly elaborate on your comment? Thanks in advance!


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiLd FyeR*
> 
> Thanks for the guide REP+
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Wow, good thing for the iphone, the writing was really small. So the resistors I have says 473. I take it that its the updated version. Darn, also looks like I have an extra controller. Didn't know the XT 6 version would come with one, thought they were sold separately.
> 
> Also need help finding info on how many PWM fans one channel can handle.


it is the 4 x 470 above the 473. But yes you got the new version. You order from FZCPU or PPC?


----------



## WiLd FyeR

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> it is the 4 x 470 above the 473. But yes you got the new version. You order from FZCPU or PPC?


Ordered from PPC.


----------



## mandrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ragpad*
> 
> @Shoggy:
> 
> Firstly, thanks for the replies.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Is the PWM header on AQ6 capable of providing PWM signal to Swiftech MPC35X2 pumps? Also, I am a little surprised to hear that I should stay away from the Swiftech PWM splitters (contrary to what others on this forum have been saying)?! Could you kindly elaborate on your comment? Thanks in advance!


No problem with MCP35x2.
Edit: sorry I didn't see addressed to Shoggy...hopefully he'll chime in about the splitters.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ragpad*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *WiLd FyeR*
> 
> I should be getting the Aquaero 6 xt by monday. Anything I should know before and after I set it up.
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *riesscar*
> 
> I know that at least one use is to dim LED's. I think that they are used for control of two pin devices in general. I am using it for my Darkside Dimmable LED's, which have two pin connections that are then connected to 3-pin fan pins (yet only two of the three are actually utilized). To use these ports, you'll need the 2-pin connector, which can be found here:
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=36_48&products_id=36722
> 
> -Carson
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> @riesscar
> 
> Carson:
> 
> Thanks, buddy!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now, onto a follow-up stupid question: *Is this header capable of providing PWM signal to Swiftech MCP35X2 pumps?[/*quote]
> 
> Are you talking about the PWM header ?
> 
> If so, NO, do not use it for a pump.
> 
> It's a pulsed 12V power output at a different frequency than normal PWM controlled devices use.
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ragpad*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> At first:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And now back to work
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It was one of the first things that I complained about myself but unfortunately it can not be addressed because of the way how the internal management of these pages work. To get this slightly more organized it would require a lot of changes and work - not really worth the additional work in our opinion because most people us the software anyway.
> There is no way to control more than two aquastream Xt pumps from one aquaero. You will have to use USB for the third pump or you just let run all of them via USB since the aquabus offers no real advantage anyway. It only allows you to controll the speed of the pump in a limited range.
> The poweradjust 3 is compatible to all devices of the aquaero 5 and 6 series.
> Just bend it a bit more to the side. The part should be still OK. There is no problem to run the aquaero this way. Just in case the the part is damaged the aquaero will not start at all but it can not cause any further damages. In such a case this part can be also replaced by yourself or someone with some basic soldering skills.
> No, and it never will as long as the pump manufacturer does not take care about the PWM specifications. This pump needs a 5V pull-up circuit which we can not provide.
> I have no experience with this fan. You should stay away from the Swiftech PWM splitter. There are more than enough users where it not work together with the aquaero. Just get a "normal" splitter or maybe even build your own with some plugs and wires. In theory there is no problem to control all fans from one channel (PWM signal) but it depends on the specific fan. If you want to do this I recommend to power the fans directly from the PSU so that the aquaero only has to control the PWM stuff.
> As you might have already read here the SP120 PWM fans from Corsair cause some problems with the aquaero because of the way how they use PWM. There are some workarounds here in the topic.
> 
> To shutdown the system the mentioned adapter cable is OK but you also need a 3-pin relay plug to be able to connect it to the aquaero. In short words how it works: the green wire of the adapter cable will be cut and one end goes to pin goes to pin 1 of the relay plug and the other end to pin 3. In the aquasuite software you would set up one or more alarms and as action you add to switch the relay for two seconds.
> 
> If you want to use that I highly recommend to provoke such an event just to make sure that it will work correctly when really needed.
> 
> Besides that the aquaero can also send keyboard commands like regular shutdown or standby. So you could also set up a two-level system where at first step the aquaero tries to shutdown the system in a safe way and if this does not happen (Windows not able to close a program for example) the relay could do it the hard way.
> The PWM headers provide a pulsed 12V signal and it is ideal to be used with LEDs. When used with single LEDs make sure to use a suitable resistor because otherwise they will burn down. When used with LED stripes be aware that some stripes might have some internal buffer electronic to compensate current fluctuations. Well, normally it is a good thing but in this case it would be a bad thing because it prevents you from dimming the stripes in a useful way.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> @Shoggy:
> 
> Firstly, thanks for the replies.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Is the PWM header on AQ6 capable of providing PWM signal to Swiftech MPC35X2 pumps? Also, I am a little surprised to hear that I should stay away from the Swiftech PWM splitters (contrary to what others on this forum have been saying)?! Could you kindly elaborate on your comment? Thanks in advance!
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> It's not the splitters, it's that a lot of guys who got the problematic Corsair fans also got those splitters, and so the splitters got blamed along with the fans.
> 
> I have half a dozen of them on testing setups, molex and sata, and they work fine.
> 
> The 35X pump, and the 35X2 have internal 5V pullup resistors and work fine on a PWM channel of the Aquaeros with no mods needed.
> 
> I've tried running 4 35X's on a single channel, and it's fine, no problem slowing them down to minimum.
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *mandrix*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ragpad*
> 
> @Shoggy:
> 
> Firstly, thanks for the replies.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Is the PWM header on AQ6 capable of providing PWM signal to Swiftech MPC35X2 pumps? Also, I am a little surprised to hear that I should stay away from the Swiftech PWM splitters (contrary to what others on this forum have been saying)?! Could you kindly elaborate on your comment? Thanks in advance!
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> No problem with MCP35x2.
> Edit: sorry I didn't see addressed to Shoggy...hopefully he'll chime in about the splitters.
> 
> Click to expand...
Click to expand...


----------



## Ragpad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mandrix*
> 
> No problem with MCP35x2.
> Edit: sorry I didn't see addressed to Shoggy...hopefully he'll chime in about the splitters.


@mandrix:

Thanks for the response, notwithstanding that my post was addressed to @shoggy (perhaps, I should not have "specifically" addressed to @shoggy, but did because he responded to my earlier post). Anyway, did you you mean that those two headers - specifically designated (and which @riesscar/Carson stated that they were typically used LEDs and the like) as"PWM" (and _*not*_ "Fan") - could also be used for Swiftech MPC35X2 pumps? Again, thanks!


----------



## mandrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ragpad*
> 
> @mandrix:
> 
> Thanks for the response, notwithstanding that my post was addressed to @shoggy (perhaps, I should not have "specifically" addressed to @shoggy, but did because he responded to my earlier post). Anyway, did you you mean that those two headers - specifically designated (and which @riesscar/Carson stated that they were typically used LEDs and the like) as"PWM" (and _*not*_ "Fan") - could also be used for Swiftech MPC35X2 pumps? Again, thanks!


No. Not the two headers marked pwm. I thought you were asking if the Aquaero could handle the pumps without problems.
If you look back some posts you will see where Shoggy explained how the PWM headers work at 15khz....they are fine for led's , etc but not for controlling pumps.


----------



## Ragpad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*


@ITDiva:

Darlene:

I think that it was you who responded to my "follow-up" question on the PWM headers. (My confusion arises from that too many messages were quoted, and there "apparently" is not a way - as far as I can tell - to actually "nest" the individual responses.) Anyway, your response conclusively answers my question, and thanks for the same.







I am a little surprised that AquaComputer would actually include two dedicated PWM headers for LEDs and not for the so-called "strong" (witrhout the voltage lines) pumps. Hmmm...!


----------



## Newtocooling

Hey guys I may end up with two Aquaero 6xt's if this happens, I may use one Aquaero per loop in my system. Will I need to do anything special to get the second one working wiht Aquasuite?


----------



## Ragpad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mandrix*
> 
> No. Not the two headers marked pwm. I thought you were asking if the Aquaero could handle the pumps without problems.
> If you look back some posts you will see where Shoggy explained how the PWM headers work at 15khz....they are fine for led's , etc but not for controlling pumps.


@mandrix:

Yep, I got it! Thanks, pal! ITDiva (Darlene) responded to my query, while I was asking you that question.

Let me ask both of you (but again, all are welcome to enlighten me, as always, of course), what PWM frequency does a typical pump use? (Same as a "switched" power supply?) Thanks!


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ragpad*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> 
> 
> @ITDiva:
> 
> Darlene:
> 
> I think that it was you who responded to my "follow-up" question on the PWM headers. (My confusion arises from that too many messages were quoted, and there "apparently" is not a way - as far as I can tell - to actually "nest" the individual responses.) Anyway, your response conclusively answers my question, and thanks for the same.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I am a little surprised that AquaComputer would actually include two dedicated PWM headers for LEDs and not for *the so-called "strong" (witrhout the voltage lines) pumps.* Hmmm...!
Click to expand...

Are you referring to the D5S pump, the one referred to as the Strong because it actually has a significant increase in performance when used with 24V, where the other D5 models have no performance boost from 12V to 24V operation.

If you're talking about that pump, it doesn't like having it's power line PWM'd, I know, I've worked at it.

I made a PWM 24V source, and couldn't get it to run slower than 3800 rpm.

Pumps and fans for PC service are usually designed to the Intel standard, which uses 25KHz, although the EK Ascendacy uses 62.5KHz.
Darlene


----------



## WiLd FyeR

IT Diva: Do you happen to know how many PWM fans can one channel use without any heat issues?


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiLd FyeR*
> 
> IT Diva: Do you happen to know how many PWM fans can one channel use without any heat issues?


If you use a splitter that supplies the 12V power to the fans from a Molex or SATA connector from the PSU . . . .

There won't be any heat issue no matter how many fans you connect, because all you're supplying from the Aquaero is an "open collector" circuit for the aggregate PWM lines.

Exactly how many fans becomes determined by the internal circuitry of the fans . . . If they have a lower resistance pullup to nominally 5V, then you'll be able to control less than if it's a higher resistance.

In short, it depends on which fans.

No one seems to have had issues with any PWM fan models other than the ones from Corsair.

I would expect that you should handle easily 8 to 16 PWM fans, on proper splitters, & as long as they are not Corsairs, form each channel.

With the newer version, very possibly more.

Darlene


----------



## WiLd FyeR

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> If you use a splitter that supplies the 12V power to the fans from a Molex or SATA connector from the PSU . . . .
> 
> There won't be any heat issue no matter how many fans you connect, because all you're supplying from the Aquaero is an "open collector" circuit for the aggregate PWM lines.
> 
> Exactly how many fans becomes determined by the internal circuitry of the fans . . . If they have a lower resistance pullup to nominally 5V, then you'll be able to control less than if it's a higher resistance.
> 
> In short, it depends on which fans.
> 
> No one seems to have had issues with any PWM fan models other than the ones from Corsair.
> 
> I would expect that you should handle easily 8 to 16 PWM fans, on proper splitters, & as long as they are not Corsairs, form each channel.
> 
> With the newer version, very possibly more.
> 
> Darlene


REP+







Thanks for the info. Might just return the Aquaero then. This is getting complicated, I was thinking the Aquaero would handle multiple fans by itself. Turns out I have to use some other splitter which means more wires.


----------



## Kimir

I think some of you are having trouble with the @Kimir kind of thing.
And a splitter doesn't mean more wire, you actually need a splitter to connect more than one fan per channel.


----------



## WiLd FyeR

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kimir*
> 
> I think some of you are having trouble with the @Kimir kind of thing.
> And a splitter doesn't mean more wire, you actually need a splitter to connect more than one fan per channel.


Now that I think about it, I can use the Mobo to control the splitter box instead of using the Aquaero.


----------



## Ironsmack

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiLd FyeR*
> 
> REP+
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for the info. Might just return the Aquaero then. This is getting complicated, I was thinking the Aquaero would handle multiple fans by itself. Turns out I have to use some other splitter which means more wires.


Well, to be fair - it can. But given the size of the unit and its capabilities, you can only cram so much electronics/sensors/output in its physical size.

If I took the time to understand, read the manual and different reviews of aquaero before I purchased 2 different fan controllers - it would save me a lot of time (and money).

You still need some sort of splitters to control all of the fans you have, but at least the Aquaero has the brains to figure it out and handle all of it.


----------



## Ragpad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Are you referring to the D5S pump, the one referred to as the Strong because it actually has a significant increase in performance when used with 24V, where the other D5 models have no performance boost from 12V to 24V operation.
> 
> If you're talking about that pump, it doesn't like having it's power line PWM'd, I know, I've worked at it.
> 
> I made a PWM 24V source, and couldn't get it to run slower than 3800 rpm.
> 
> Pumps and fans for PC service are usually designed to the Intel standard, which uses 25KHz, although the EK Ascendacy uses 62.5KHz.
> Darlene


@IT Diva:

Darlene:

Thanks for the edification on the PWM frequency for PCs.

Yes, I was referring to the DS5-pumps variants (including Swiftech MCP-655-PWM-Drive).

I am afraid that a little background, as to why I am asking you all these stupid questions, may be necessary. I am actually looking for powerful pumps (I do realize that the word "powerful" is an adjective that connotes "subjective" thinking, but I do not have any good way of "quantifying" - at least, not yet - my needs.) My "proposed" PC (for each one) cooling loop comprises the following: a Watercool MO-RA3 480 radiator with 18 (9 for "push"/9 for "pull") fans; a "cross-flow" plate heat-exchanger; a liquid (water, for now) chiller; CPU liquid-cooling block (Aquacomputer cuplex kryos HF .925 silver edition); 2 GPU (overclocked nVidia GTX, but not "reference" type) liquid-cooling blocks; a cooling block for the AQ6 itself (it appears that it is not necessary, but I have already bought them!); an Aqualis XT reservoir; and lastly the pumps (the type and brand are what I am trying to decide). Each PC's cooling setup (except, of course, for the water-blocks) is mounted within a separate case entriely. (I am not into case-modding - just using the computers at their maximum, at all times; and I am not into breaking records; and my needs are strictly "utilitarian.") With all the "twists and turns" and the attendant "restrictions" on the 1/2" tubing, I felt that I should have at least two "powerful" pumps. (I like having a backup pump, in any event.) By the way, the liquid-chiller is on a separate circuit and is used to cool the the liquid-cooling setups - yes, "setups," because that liquid - which is an aquarium type, because they are the most cost-effective, and it is 1HP/12,000 BTU/hour-rated - chiller is used for "exchanging" heat with multiple CPU-cooling setups _via_ the plate heat-exchanger. (Basically, I am using the liquid-chiller as sort of a central, process-temperature control system.) That pretty much sums it up for my "proposed" setup. As always, ideas are welcome, and help is greatly appreciated.

Lastly, but definitely not the least, thanks for reading my rather lengthy drivel!


----------



## VSG

Mcp35x2, or the new mcp50x depending on how it works. I have a similar setup.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiLd FyeR*
> 
> Now that I think about it, I can use the Mobo to control the splitter box instead of using the Aquaero.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ironsmack*
> 
> Well, to be fair - it can. But given the size of the unit and its capabilities, you can only cram so much electronics/sensors/output in its physical size.
> 
> If I took the time to understand, read the manual and different reviews of aquaero before I purchased 2 different fan controllers - it would save me a lot of time (and money).
> 
> You still need some sort of splitters to control all of the fans you have, but at least the Aquaero has the brains to figure it out and handle all of it.


^^ this

there are several pwm splitters with molex or sata external power like this http://www.frozencpu.com/products/10350/cab-183/Akasa_PWM_Splitter_-_Smart_Fan_Cable_AK-CB002.html#blank . Usually a fan controller will have only 3 to 6 (sometimes 8) separate channels. If you need to run more fans well you need splitters... The aquaero have a lot more capabilities that any other fan controllers (including PWM on 4 channels) and a lot more in terms of control/monitor features (pump, temperature, flow, pressure etc). It is up to you to known if you need those features or not.


----------



## Wolfsbora

I have a few questions regarding accessories and more specifically cables for a 6 XT. I purchased 2 Poweradjust cables for my 2 DDC pumps (single loop), an Aquacomputer temperature sensor, the black heatsink, black faceplate (thanks @Shoggy, for setting me up with a replacement!) and a used MPS 400 that came with no cables. The 6 XT came with the RPM signal cable to plug into the mobo and the USB cable, plus some ambient temperature sensors.

Since the MPS didn't come with cables, what additional cables will I need to plug it into the 6 XT to get temperature and flow rate? *Please correct me if I'm wrong, I believe I found a response that Shoggy had posted on another forum stating that the Aquabus cable would take care of this.*

I also plan on connecting 3 sets of non-PWM fans (4, 2, and 2. Each set on a different rad). I currently have a 4 way splitter and 2 - 2 way splitters. Will this be sufficient for the fans?

And last but not least, this is probably a simple question to answer, where do both of the DDC pumps plug into on the 6 XT?

Thank you all!!


----------



## WiLd FyeR

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ironsmack*
> 
> Well, to be fair - it can. But given the size of the unit and its capabilities, you can only cram so much electronics/sensors/output in its physical size.
> 
> If I took the time to understand, read the manual and different reviews of aquaero before I purchased 2 different fan controllers - it would save me a lot of time (and money).
> 
> You still need some sort of splitters to control all of the fans you have, but at least the Aquaero has the brains to figure it out and handle all of it.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> ^^ this
> 
> there are several pwm splitters with molex or sata external power like this http://www.frozencpu.com/products/10350/cab-183/Akasa_PWM_Splitter_-_Smart_Fan_Cable_AK-CB002.html#blank . Usually a fan controller will have only 3 to 6 (sometimes 8) separate channels. If you need to run more fans well you need splitters... The aquaero have a lot more capabilities that any other fan controllers (including PWM on 4 channels) and a lot more in terms of control/monitor features (pump, temperature, flow, pressure etc). It is up to you to known if you need those features or not.


Thanks guys.. was kinda disappointed but I'll stick it out with the Aquaero. REP+







Other fan controllers might not be as good.


----------



## Ragpad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Mcp35x2, or the new mcp50x depending on how it works. I have a similar setup.


@geggeg:

Thanks for the response, pal!









I think that I will go with the Swiftech MCP35X2 pumps (with the Swiftech housing, as that seems to be the only one available for that configuration, unless there are other "tops," for which I have not "properly" searched). By the way, per your suggestion, I did contact @BrainSLI1 of Swiftech, who said that the MCP 50 would be released in about 4-6 weeks and that there is (currently, anyway) no plan to releaseX2 version; however, he declined to give me specifications on the MCP50. (Just to let you know that I appreciate your kind suggestions.)

I just looked at your setup (Prometheus - nice name!). I have a question for you: How important - in your _personal_ view - are cooling blocks for motherboard components (PCH, VRM, _etc_.)? Have you incorporated a chiller into your cooling setup, also? As far as I can, it is only the CPUs that are experiencing wild temperature "excursions," but wanted to get your thoughts on it.

Thanks!


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ragpad*
> 
> @geggeg:
> 
> Thanks for the response, pal!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I think that I will go with the Swiftech MCP35X2 pumps (with the Swiftech housing, as that seems to be the only one available for that configuration, unless there are other "tops," for which I have not "properly" searched). By the way, per your suggestion, I did contact @BrainSLI1 of Swiftech, who said that the MCP 50 would be released in about 4-6 weeks and that there is (currently, anyway) no plan to releaseX2 version; however, he declined to give me specifications on the MCP50. (Just to let you know that I appreciate your kind suggestions.)
> 
> I just looked at your setup (Prometheus - nice name!). I have a question for you: How important - in your _personal_ view - are cooling blocks for motherboard components (PCH, VRM, _etc_.)? Have you incorporated a chiller into your cooling setup, also? As far as I can, it is only the CPUs that are experiencing wild temperature "excursions," but wanted to get your thoughts on it.
> 
> Thanks!


this one too mate:

http://shop.aquacomputer.de/product_info.php?products_id=2359

is a dual top for ddc.


----------



## Ragpad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> this one too mate:
> 
> http://shop.aquacomputer.de/product_info.php?products_id=2359
> 
> is a dual top for ddc.


@Gabrielzm:

Why, thank you, Sir!







(By the way, are you Australian? I am just curious, because you say "Mate"; perhaps, "G'day," too; I do not know.) See, all I had to do was ask!

Is this what you have in your setup? What is your opinion - pros and cons?

Thanks!


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ragpad*
> 
> @Gabrielzm:
> 
> Why, thank you, Sir!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (By the way, are you Australian? I am just curious, because you say "Mate"; perhaps, "G'day," too; I do not know.) See, all I had to do was ask!
> 
> Is this what you have in your setup? What is your opinion - pros and cons?
> 
> Thanks!


Nope, Brazilian.







I use d5 pumps (ek tops) never used ddc. I just found those aquacomputer tops beautiful







There are XSPC dual ddc tops too but heard stories of the acrylic cracking with use so... In any case think about decoupling whatever pump/top you choose.


----------



## Ragpad

@
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Nope, Brazilian.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I use d5 pumps (ek tops) never used ddc. I just found those aquacomputer tops beautiful
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There are XSPC dual ddc tops too but heard stories of the acrylic cracking with use so... In any case think about decoupling whatever pump/top you choose.


@Gabrielzm:

Ah, Brazilian! Brasilia - great place to live in, is it not? (I wish I could say something smart in Portugese, but sadly cannot, because (1) I do not speak Portugese, and (2) I am not smart. My wife does a little bit, though!)

Yes, they are beautiful. It appears that they are compatible with MCP350/355; there was no mention of MPC35X. What do you think of EK Dual DDC3.2 PWM X-Top? Are they "PWM-compatible" with AQ6?

Yes, I do intend to get the "decouplers," which I take to mean vibration dampers. It appears that @Shoggy has his own brand of decouplers!

Thanks!


----------



## Shoggy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Newtocooling*
> 
> Hey guys I may end up with two Aquaero 6xt's if this happens, I may use one Aquaero per loop in my system. Will I need to do anything special to get the second one working wiht Aquasuite?


No problem at all. You can connect as many aquaeros and other USB devices from us as you want. They will all get its own tab inside the aquasuite so you can easily switch back and forth through all devices.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wolfsbora*
> 
> Since the MPS didn't come with cables, what additional cables will I need to plug it into the 6 XT to get temperature and flow rate? *Please correct me if I'm wrong, I believe I found a response that Shoggy had posted on another forum stating that the Aquabus cable would take care of this.*
> 
> And last but not least, this is probably a simple question to answer, where do both of the DDC pumps plug into on the 6 XT?


The aqubus cable and rpm cable are the same but in your case I recommend to get a 4-pin aquabus cable so the sensor will get its power from the aquaero. You can also use a 3-pin cable but in this case USB must be also connected because otherwise the sensor will get no power.

You have to use one fan channel per pump. It does not matter which one you use.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ragpad*
> 
> It appears that @Shoggy has his own brand of decouplers!


Oh yes. Prepare yourself for one of the hottest links in that topic. I already feel ashamed for posting this but we all were young and needed the money









*It's time for the Shoggy Sandwich!*


----------



## riesscar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ragpad*
> 
> I have a question for you: How important - in your _personal_ view - are cooling blocks for motherboard components (PCH, VRM, _etc_.)? Have you incorporated a chiller into your cooling setup, also? As far as I can, it is only the CPUs that are experiencing wild temperature "excursions," but wanted to get your thoughts on it.
> 
> Thanks!


- I read conflicting views on how necessary motherboard cooling is, with some saying that it can help achieve higher overclocks and others pointing out that these components are built to withstand heat that is higher than they will get. I ended up getting full board blocks because of the aesthetics, but I noticed when I installed them a huge drop in temps (from ~46C to ~26C). Now, does this mean that it is helping my system? I'm not really sure. I achieve the same overclocks, but perhaps if I had a better CPU bin I would notice a difference.

In addition to cpu blocks, GPU blocks are very effective and are commonly used: you will see a drastic drop in temps and noise.

Outside of this, some put RAM blocks on, but it is pretty much universally agreed that these are superfluous.

I looked into water chillers, but I outs advise against them for two reasons: firstly, they are expensive. The cheapest I saw was around 500$. Secondly -- and more importantly -- they chill the water below the ambient temperature in the chassis, which produces condensation. If you get a drip onto a component while the system is running... well, I think you know







.

-Carson


----------



## Ragpad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> No problem at all. You can connect as many aquaeros and other USB devices from us as you want. They will all get its own tab inside the aquasuite so you can easily switch back and forth through all devices.
> The aqubus cable and rpm cable are the same but in your case I recommend to get a 4-pin aquabus cable so the sensor will get its power from the aquaero. You can also use a 3-pin cable but in this case USB must be also connected because otherwise the sensor will get no power.
> 
> You have to use one fan channel per pump. It does not matter which one you use.
> Oh yes. Prepare yourself for one of the hottest links in that topic. I already feel ashamed for posting this but we all were young and needed the money
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *It's time for the Shoggy Sandwich!*


@Shoggy

Do you really mean a link hotter than Aquaero owners' club itself? That cannot be!







Self-promotion is the best way to make money! Your YouTube video has to wait for me to finish work in the evening, unfortunately. If it is any consolation to you, I am old, and I *still* need money!


----------



## Ragpad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *riesscar*
> 
> - I read conflicting views on how necessary motherboard cooling is, with some saying that it can help achieve higher overclocks and others pointing out that these components are built to withstand heat that is higher than they will get. I ended up getting full board blocks because of the aesthetics, but I noticed when I installed them a huge drop in temps (from ~46C to ~26C). Now, does this mean that it is helping my system? I'm not really sure. I achieve the same overclocks, but perhaps if I had a better CPU bin I would notice a difference.
> 
> In addition to cpu blocks, GPU blocks are very effective and are commonly used: you will see a drastic drop in temps and noise.
> 
> Outside of this, some put RAM blocks on, but it is pretty much universally agreed that these are superfluous.
> 
> I looked into water chillers, but I outs advise against them for two reasons: firstly, they are expensive. The cheapest I saw was around 500$. Secondly -- and more importantly -- they chill the water below the ambient temperature in the chassis, which produces condensation. If you get a drip onto a component while the system is running... well, I think you know
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> 
> -Carson


@riesscar

Carson:

Thanks for sharing your experience with me. I think that I should not try to do anything with the graphics cards (because they are not that expensive, and they do not get really that hot for the things that we do here, anyway); however, VRM and the PCH may be a different matter, because CPU overclocking does involve opening up the VRM voltage, power range, and the loadline (at least on the Asus motherboards that I have). I think that I should get those blocks.









On the chillers, yes, I was afraid of that dreaded condensation problem; however, I was able to get around it, to a large extent, by not directly using the "chilled" water in the CPU cooling circuit - in addition to using the neoprene sheets. So far, it has worked well. I am still experimenting with it. I may run into unexpected issues once I modify the circuit. I am just keeping my fingers crossed and my eyes peeled. We shall see!

Thanks!


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ragpad*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *riesscar*
> 
> - I read conflicting views on how necessary motherboard cooling is, with some saying that it can help achieve higher overclocks and others pointing out that these components are built to withstand heat that is higher than they will get. I ended up getting full board blocks because of the aesthetics, but I noticed when I installed them a huge drop in temps (from ~46C to ~26C). Now, does this mean that it is helping my system? I'm not really sure. I achieve the same overclocks, but perhaps if I had a better CPU bin I would notice a difference.
> 
> In addition to cpu blocks, GPU blocks are very effective and are commonly used: you will see a drastic drop in temps and noise.
> 
> Outside of this, some put RAM blocks on, but it is pretty much universally agreed that these are superfluous.
> 
> I looked into water chillers, but I outs advise against them for two reasons: firstly, they are expensive. The cheapest I saw was around 500$. Secondly -- and more importantly -- they chill the water below the ambient temperature in the chassis, which produces condensation. If you get a drip onto a component while the system is running... well, I think you know
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> 
> -Carson
> 
> 
> 
> @riesscar
> 
> Carson:
> 
> Thanks for sharing your experience with me. I think that I should not try to do anything with the graphics cards (because they are not that expensive, and they do not get really that hot for the things that we do here, anyway); however, VRM and the PCH may be a different matter, because CPU overclocking does involve opening up the VRM voltage, power range, and the loadline (at least on the Asus motherboards that I have). I think that I should get those blocks.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On the chillers, yes, I was afraid of that dreaded condensation problem; however, I was able to get around it, to a large extent, by not directly using the "chilled" water in the CPU cooling circuit - in addition to using the neoprene sheets. So far, it has worked well. I am still experimenting with it. I may run into unexpected issues once I modify the circuit. I am just keeping my fingers crossed and my eyes peeled. We shall see!
> 
> Thanks!
Click to expand...

If you're not cooling big GPU's, then it's not much effort to have enough rad space to build a 1 to 2C delta capable loop . . . . . Why bother with the expense and hassles of the chillers for virtually no gain if you're not running sub ambient?

If you already have the chiller(s), I guess you could look at running slightly sub ambient, where the condensation can be evaporated before it becomes visible as liquid and drips . .

Put the rad After the chiller, use the A6 to set up a virtual temp sensor between inside the case ambient and water exiting the rad, and use the relay on the A6 to control a larger relay to start and stop the chiller, thus keeping the coolant at a controlled level below ambient. That should be a pretty low maintenance setup for long term use.

D.


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ragpad*
> 
> @geggeg:
> 
> Thanks for the response, pal!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I think that I will go with the Swiftech MCP35X2 pumps (with the Swiftech housing, as that seems to be the only one available for that configuration, unless there are other "tops," for which I have not "properly" searched). By the way, per your suggestion, I did contact @BrainSLI1 of Swiftech, who said that the MCP 50 would be released in about 4-6 weeks and that there is (currently, anyway) no plan to releaseX2 version; however, he declined to give me specifications on the MCP50. (Just to let you know that I appreciate your kind suggestions.)
> 
> I just looked at your setup (Prometheus - nice name!). I have a question for you: How important - in your _personal_ view - are cooling blocks for motherboard components (PCH, VRM, _etc_.)? Have you incorporated a chiller into your cooling setup, also? As far as I can, it is only the CPUs that are experiencing wild temperature "excursions," but wanted to get your thoughts on it.
> 
> Thanks!


The mcp50x should be out in a couple of weeks hopefully. Since it was their in house design, they probably wanted to keep things secret till launch.

That setup in my signature is half of my build, it says side 1 for a reason. Check out my build log (also in my sig) for more details.

PCH cooling does next to nothing to be honest, and if I was to do this again I wouldn't have bought the EK motherboard blocks. The Asus M6F has an inbuilt MOSFET block which does help slightly to stabilize CPU overclocking at voltages > 1.35V. So that's one block that does make some sense if you desire.

Chillers are great if you can handle the condensation, extra power draw and noise. In my case, the cards draw over 1300W themselves without including the rest of the components so a typical US electrical circuit can't handle a chiller on top of this.


----------



## Ragpad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> If you're not cooling big GPU's, then it's not much effort to have enough rad space to build a 1 to 2C delta capable loop . . . . . Why bother with the expense and hassles of the chillers for virtually no gain if you're not running sub ambient?
> 
> If you already have the chiller(s), I guess you could look at running slightly sub ambient, where the condensation can be evaporated before it becomes visible as liquid and drips . .
> 
> Put the rad After the chiller, use the A6 to set up a virtual temp sensor between inside the case ambient and water exiting the rad, and use the relay on the A6 to control a larger relay to start and stop the chiller, thus keeping the coolant at a controlled level below ambient. That should be a pretty low maintenance setup for long term use.
> 
> D.


@IT Diva:

Darlene:

Thanks for the great ideas, and I am definitely going to try those. (I will, of course, give you the credit for those ideas!














) Perhaps, you could help me set up the "virtual temperature sensors" on the AQ6? I have never "used" the AQ6. In fact, I debated with myself whether to get the AQ6, or some other controller systems (say, BigNG, MiniNG, or Heatmaster); the biggest reason, in my own feeble mind, why I went with AQ6 was that it was PWM-enabled. Koolance does have a small chiller that has an external thermocouple (Type K - chromel-alumel) to let users control the chiller operation. However, it was not cheap (at $1,300), and the capacity was much too small (in my opinion) for me to expand the technique to all of my systems.

I already have the chiller and everything else. I did use a relay switch to start the chiller, along with the test system, but eventually I may have to run it 24/7 so that other systems could access the chilled-water loop, if need be. As I mentioned in my earlier post, I was able to use the chiller setup without the radiator (but with the cross-flow plate heat-exchanger - the chilled water never entered the PC cooling loop) without any drastic, untoward consequences, primarily because of the 10mm-thick neoprene insulation and the plate heat-exchanger setup. The temperature was actually well below ambient at 15 degrees Celsius. (I do not have a solid reason grounded in experience to select that temperature; I just happened to pick that number!) I did get immense help from our company's HVAC engineer (with a degree in engineering thermodynamics), who guided me "hands on" through a lot of these "chilling" stuff. Currently, I have disassembled the system to see if I can extend that technique to my other computers, using the very same chiller. I am waiting for the AQ6 Pro to arrive from Aquatuning in Germany (along with such other sundry items as the Kryos CPU block, generic neoprene sheets, and Armaflex tube "wrappers." The Armaflex tube wrapper is currently out of stock. So, I am twiddling my thumbs, so to speak.

I am trying to use the radiator for two reasons: (1) as a backup to the "refrigerated" liquid loop, just in case it becomes "uncontrollable," and (2) to "regulate" the temperature within the CPU-cooling circuit, a little better (just like you said).

What set me off on this "chilling" path was that I was using the "stock" cooler kits - _e. g._, Antec, Corsair, _etc._ (which are totally useless in my opinion), and when I overclocked to about 35-45% above the processors' maximum "turbo" [ _see_ "Edit," _infra_ ] frequencies, they started throttling (that was after I opened up the VRM, loadline, _etc._; and before that "expansion," the system would just crash). My favorite whipping boy of the processors is the i7-3770K on an Asus Maximus V Extreme motherboard loaded to the gills with 32GB RAM (but with only 2 NVidia 3GB overclocked cards on SLI) (overclocked to 4.7-4.9 GHz); so, I am using that as a baseline for my next step. The temperatures instantaneously shot up to 95-105 degrees Celsius and throttled on Prime 95 stress-testing. While continuing to use the stock coolers (Antec 920, in this instance), I even tried the Indigo XS, to no avail. (As an aside, I am not sure that Indigo XS actually lives up to its lofty claims.) Then, I unloaded that Antec 920 and tried bigger stock radiator kits. That did not help, either. (Candidly, I might have screwed up on overclocking; or it was just a bad processor for those frequencies; I do not know, for sure. I have to look into that someday. And, I have been wrong before - many times!)

At bottom, I am just trying to see how best I could extend the utility of these processors for daily use. (It goes without saying that these attempts, sadly, are expensive; but I try to say to myself that I am learning a lot!)

As an aside, to prevent condensation issues, without the added bulk of the neoprene insulation, _etc._, someday, I would like to look into CPU (and other) blocks made with vacuum-insulated double walls. I have used those in furnaces and other extreme-temperature (both ultralow and ultrahigh) applications at work, but they are not cheap.









Edit: Sorry, the overclocking frequencies were actually 35-45% over their maximum "base" - and *not* "turbo" (as I had mistakenly shot my mouth, er... my fingers, off) - frequencies. I really did not know what the heck I was typing!


----------



## Ragpad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> The mcp50x should be out in a couple of weeks hopefully. Since it was their in house design, they probably wanted to keep things secret till launch.
> 
> That setup in my signature is half of my build, it says side 1 for a reason. Check out my build log (also in my sig) for more details.
> 
> PCH cooling does next to nothing to be honest, and if I was to do this again I wouldn't have bought the EK motherboard blocks. The Asus M6F has an inbuilt MOSFET block which does help slightly to stabilize CPU overclocking at voltages > 1.35V. So that's one block that does make some sense if you desire.
> 
> Chillers are great if you can handle the condensation, extra power draw and noise. In my case, the cards draw over 1300W themselves without including the rest of the components so a typical US electrical circuit can't handle a chiller on top of this.


@geggeg:

Thanks for the reply with suggestions, pal. Yes, I will look at your build log. I am very sure that I am going to learn quite a few things from it. Yes, the i3770K at 4.7-4.9 GHz (at least that processor that I have) does requires about 1.35V (I am not certain, because I have disassembled that system, but I do recall that number, and I see that number in my handwritten notes) - on an Asus Maximus V Extreme motherboard - with voltage transients going up to 1.41V. I was not really paying attention to the VRM/MOSFET _temperatures_ that closely (perhaps, I should have); but now I know that I should, thanks to you and Carson (@riesscar). I see exactly what you are saying about the household circuit limitations. In fact, I have the chiller downstairs on an entirely different 20A circuit. (That was the best that I could do, given the limitations.) You have a *big* video card, so that may be an issue, as you said.

P. S. Do you think that I should wait for MCP50s, instead of going with MCP35X2? Thanks!


----------



## VSG

Go for an Mcp35x2 if you can't wait for the new pumps. There is no guarantee of a dual mcp50x right now. Either way, they are all PWM pumps so will be able to be controlled by the Aquaero. Swiftech was one of the first to realize that some PWM implementations aren't standard so I would like to believe they will have it right with the new pump.


----------



## hamed599

I have a question.Which temperature sensors that work well with aquaero xt 5 and Where can I buy them? thank you


----------



## Wolfsbora

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> The aqubus cable and rpm cable are the same but in your case I recommend to get a 4-pin aquabus cable so the sensor will get its power from the aquaero. You can also use a 3-pin cable but in this case USB must be also connected because otherwise the sensor will get no power.
> 
> You have to use one fan channel per pump. It does not matter which one you use.


You are the man, Shoggy! Since there are only 4 fan channels I will be using 3 for the 3 sets of fans. This would only leave 1 additional fan channel and I would need 2 for the pumps. Any suggestions for how to do that?


----------



## Ragpad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Go for an Mcp35x2 if you can't wait for the new pumps. There is no guarantee of a dual mcp50x right now. Either way, they are all PWM pumps so will be able to be controlled by the Aquaero. Swiftech was one of the first to realize that some PWM implementations aren't standard so I would like to believe they will have it right with the new pump.


@geggeg:

Got it, buddy! Thanks!


----------



## Shoggy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wolfsbora*
> 
> You are the man, Shoggy! Since there are only 4 fan channels I will be using 3 for the 3 sets of fans. This would only leave 1 additional fan channel and I would need 2 for the pumps. Any suggestions for how to do that?


You can add a poweradjust 3 standard controller via aquabus. In this case it will act a fan channel #5.


----------



## madcratebuilder

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hamed599*
> 
> I have a question.Which temperature sensors that work well with aquaero xt 5 and Where can I buy them? thank you


Most 10Kohm temp sensors work.

http://www.aquatuning.us/water-cooling/monitoring/thermo-sensor/15941/phobya-temperature-sensor-single-80-cm-black-sleeved?c=6605

The Koolance sensors have a different plastic connector that would need to be changed.

In-line sensors for h2o temp.

http://www.aquatuning.us/water-cooling/monitoring/thermo-sensor/15937/phobya-temperature-sensor-in-line-2x-g1/4-inner-thread-matte-black?c=6605


----------



## Wolfsbora

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> You can add a poweradjust 3 standard controller via aquabus. In this case it will act a fan channel #5.


Man, this Aquaero may end up costing more than my PC!!


----------



## riesscar

I have a quick question:

I own the AQ6 Pro, and I have just completed my D5 pump mod. I am now planning to use the AQ6 to control both pumps (a D5 PWM (just mentioned) and a 35x), and two different sets of rad fans. I was using my MB CPU header to control my D5, but now that I am not, I wondered if I might be able to connect the RPM cable from the AQ6 to the MB CPU header in order to avoid the CPU fan error. I know that I can disable this error/warning in the ASUS RIVE-BE BIOS, but I'd rather not have to do this any time I update the BIOS or clear the CMOS (not that I intend to do that a whole lot







.

I could be way off-base with regard to how this cable functions, so if anyone could advise me on this I'd appreciate it greatly,

Carson


----------



## VSG

What I did in my previous build was hook up exhaust fans to that header. They were located too far for the AQ6 in the 900D and will be even further away in my current case, so I will likely carry out the same thing again.

I am pretty sure you can use the RPM cable as you intended above, but will let others who have tried it to confirm.


----------



## riesscar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> What I did in my previous build was hook up exhaust fans to that header. They were located too far for the AQ6 in the 900D and will be even further away in my current case, so I will likely carry out the same thing again.
> 
> I am pretty sure you can use the RPM cable as you intended above, but will let others who have tried it to confirm.


Thanks for the reply. I considered doing this very thing, but it'll be tough for me to run a fan extension that is long enough to run behind my 900D, which has a backplate, all the way around to the top and back down to my CPU header... although I guess I'll have two extra fan extension cables now that my D5 no longer needs them







.

Thanks again,

Carson


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *riesscar*
> 
> I have a quick question:
> 
> I own the AQ6 Pro, and I have just completed my D5 pump mod. I am now planning to use the AQ6 to control both pumps (a D5 PWM (just mentioned) and a 35x), and two different sets of rad fans. I was using my MB CPU header to control my D5, but now that I am not, I wondered if I might be able to connect the RPM cable from the AQ6 to the MB CPU header in order to avoid the CPU fan error. I know that I can disable this error/warning in the ASUS RIVE-BE BIOS, but I'd rather not have to do this any time I update the BIOS or clear the CMOS (not that I intend to do that a whole lot
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> 
> I could be way off-base with regard to how this cable functions, so if anyone could advise me on this I'd appreciate it greatly,
> 
> Carson


yep you can use the rpm to connect to the cpu_fan header.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wolfsbora*
> 
> You are the man, Shoggy! Since there are only 4 fan channels I will be using 3 for the 3 sets of fans. This would only leave 1 additional fan channel and I would need 2 for the pumps. Any suggestions for how to do that?


You leave the channel 1 (if I recall correctly) for the pumps and use the other 3 channels for the fans (with splitters). However, since you are mixing (if I understood correctly) two different types of pumps perhaps you should use separate channels for each pump which will leave for the fans 2 channels. Still plenty to run a lot of fans...


----------



## riesscar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> yep you can use the rpm to connect to the cpu_fan header.


Excellent! Thanks for the response.

Carson


----------



## Wolfsbora

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> You leave the channel 1 (if I recall correctly) for the pumps and use the other 3 channels for the fans (with splitters). However, since you are mixing (if I understood correctly) two different types of pumps perhaps you should use separate channels for each pump which will leave for the fans 2 channels. Still plenty to run a lot of fans...


The pumps are the same. They are the ones that come pre-installed in the EK 5.25" reservoir/pump combo (non-PWM). Being that they are the same would I use a splitter on the Poweradjust adapter cables to the single fan channel? Or would I have to do as Shoggy said and get the Poweradjust 3? I'd really like to avoid that seeing as how I've already spent over $100 on the accessories.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wolfsbora*
> 
> The pumps are the same. They are the ones that come pre-installed in the EK 5.25" reservoir/pump combo (non-PWM). Being that they are the same would I use a splitter on the Poweradjust adapter cables to the single fan channel? Or would I have to do as Shoggy said and get the Poweradjust 3? I'd really like to avoid that seeing as how I've already spent over $100 on the accessories.


Is this model:

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/21020/ex-pmp-249/EK_Single_525_Bay_Reservoir_w_Dual_Serial_DDC_325_Pumps_Installed_EK-BAY_RES_Dual_DDC_325_Serial_incl_pump.html?tl=g57c595s1938

?

I suppose they come with a molex to power up the pumps correct? If so I think you can easily use the splitter just to regulate the rpm using the Aquaero since the power will come from the molex. If not well then you will be getting above the specs for the channel (30 w) since the ddc is rated at 20 w...


----------



## hamed599

i have 4 this temp sensor It works with aquaero 5xt ?
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/13163/ex-tub-891/Phobya_G14_Inline_Temp_Sensor_Coupler_-_2-Pin_71170.html?tl=g30c229s579


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hamed599*
> 
> i have 4 this temp sensor It works with aquaero 5xt ?
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/13163/ex-tub-891/Phobya_G14_Inline_Temp_Sensor_Coupler_-_2-Pin_71170.html?tl=g30c229s579


it should. Can´t find the specs for this model but others phobya temp sensors are 10KOhm which is the aquacomputer spec too.


----------



## Kimir

It should and it does, I use two of them in my rig, working fine.


----------



## Wolfsbora

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Is this model:
> 
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/21020/ex-pmp-249/EK_Single_525_Bay_Reservoir_w_Dual_Serial_DDC_325_Pumps_Installed_EK-BAY_RES_Dual_DDC_325_Serial_incl_pump.html?tl=g57c595s1938
> 
> ?
> 
> I suppose they come with a molex to power up the pumps correct? If so I think you can easily use the splitter just to regulate the rpm using the Aquaero since the power will come from the molex. If not well then you will be getting above the specs for the channel (30 w) since the ddc is rated at 20 w...


That is the model. I also bought 2 of these Aquacomputer Pump Connection Cable for Poweradjust 2 and Aquaero Series.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Well then I think you are ok. The pump will get the power from the molex and the rpm control from the aquaero channel.


----------



## Jakusonfire

If they aren't PWM pumps then they need two channels.


----------



## Wolfsbora

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> If they aren't PWM pumps then they need two channels.


Unfortunately, they are not PWM. I guess I can put 2 sets of fans on 1 channel. That would be 4 fans (1 rad) on 1 channel and another 4 fans (2 rads in push) on a second.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> If they aren't PWM pumps then they need two channels.


Using the "Aquacomputer Pump Connection Cable for Poweradjust 2 and Aquaero Series" would not the power come from the molex and the rpm be controlled by the 3 pin (actually 1 pin) connector? With such cable (2x + a splitter) is not possible to connect two ddc pumps to one channel? I am asking to learn not beacuse I contesting what you said...
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wolfsbora*
> 
> Unfortunately, they are not PWM. I guess I can put 2 sets of fans on 1 channel. That would be 4 fans (1 rad) on 1 channel and another 4 fans (2 rads in push) on a second.


Yes if what Jacskonfire said above is correct (and he have a lot more experience than I do) that would be ok. Plenty of power on both channels to run 8 fans. I have 8 GT ap-15 in one channel right now. Sorry if I was pointing you in the wrong direction above but it made sense to me that if the pump was powered by the molex and only one wire went in to the 3 pin header (the rpm wire) you would be ok with both pumps in one channel...


----------



## Wolfsbora

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> If they aren't PWM pumps then they need two channels.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Using the "Aquacomputer Pump Connection Cable for Poweradjust 2 and Aquaero Series" would not the power come from the molex and the rpm be controlled by the 3 pin (actually 1 pin) connector? With such cable (2x + a splitter) is not possible to connect two ddc pumps to one channel? I am asking to learn not beacuse I contesting what you said...
> Yes if what Jacskonfire said above is correct (and he have a lot more experience than I do) that would be ok. Plenty of power on both channels to run 8 fans. I have 8 GT ap-15 in one channel right now. Sorry if I was pointing you in the wrong direction above but it made sense to me that if the pump was powered by the molex and only one wire went in to the 3 pin header (the rpm wire) you would be ok with both pumps in one channel...


2 Chainz, I mean, 2 channels it is!









Is there any reason that I would want all of the rads on separate channels? I'm assuming it would be if there were a temp sensor installed on each rad then you could have the Aquaero push more power to the fans that are attached to the hotter rad. Btw, you both deserve a +1 from your help!


----------



## Blackspots

Anyone want to help? I'm not sure which I should get. Should I save some money and get the Aquaero 5 LT, or just get the Aquaero 6 Pro?

My system when complete will have 7 fans (e-Loop B12-4 - two will be connected to the motherboard for front and rear fans in a CaseLabs Mercury S8 case), a D5 pump and EK Reservoir combo.

One radiator will have 3 fans, the other rad will have two fans. I will use a ModMyToys 3-Pin Power Distribution PCB - 3-Way Block for both. (two of them)


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blackspots*
> 
> Anyone want to help? I'm not sure which I should get. Should I save some money and get the Aquaero 5 LT, or just get the Aquaero 6 Pro?
> 
> My system when complete will have 7 fans (e-Loop B12-4 - two will be connected to the motherboard for front and rear fans in a CaseLabs Mercury S8 case), a D5 pump and EK Reservoir combo.
> 
> One radiator will have 3 fans, the other rad will have two fans. I will use a ModMyToys 3-Pin Power Distribution PCB - 3-Way Block for both. (two of them)


seems to me you would be just fine with the 5 lt which is a lot of controller for the money. Just mine 2 cents


----------



## Mega Man

sweet just found this club, i have 6x AQ6 xts and 3x multiswitch ( 2 full one lt )

here is a pic of one, ill try to get a pic of the rest soon !


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!












Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Blackspots*
> 
> Anyone want to help? I'm not sure which I should get. Should I save some money and get the Aquaero 5 LT, or just get the Aquaero 6 Pro?
> 
> My system when complete will have 7 fans (e-Loop B12-4 - two will be connected to the motherboard for front and rear fans in a CaseLabs Mercury S8 case), a D5 pump and EK Reservoir combo.
> 
> One radiator will have 3 fans, the other rad will have two fans. I will use a ModMyToys 3-Pin Power Distribution PCB - 3-Way Block for both. (two of them)
> 
> 
> 
> seems to me you would be just fine with the 5 lt which is a lot of controller for the money. Just mine 2 cents
Click to expand...

agreed but just use the aq for all fans ( unless you desperately want a lcd/keyboard/mouse or 4 channel PWM)

1 channel per rad
and you can either use the remaining 2 for pump and other fans yuou can control them from case ambient ( the fans for rear and front )


----------



## RDKing2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wolfsbora*
> 
> The pumps are the same. They are the ones that come pre-installed in the EK 5.25" reservoir/pump combo (non-PWM). Being that they are the same would I use a splitter on the Poweradjust adapter cables to the single fan channel? Or would I have to do as Shoggy said and get the Poweradjust 3? I'd really like to avoid that seeing as how I've already spent over $100 on the accessories.


You can not regulate anything, fan, or pump by the rpm cable. It just sends an rpm reading. If the power is coming from the molex and it is not pwm regulated the device will run at full speed. If you are using the PA adapter cable to put the pumps molex and rpm cable back into a standard fan type 3 pin and use a splitter you would leave one of the rpm cables from a pump disconnected from the splitter (if splitter cable does not do it) and make sure wattage of the two pumps together do not exceed the fan header rating. If wattage is ok you will be fine.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RDKing2*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Wolfsbora*
> 
> The pumps are the same. They are the ones that come pre-installed in the EK 5.25" reservoir/pump combo (non-PWM). Being that they are the same would I use a splitter on the Poweradjust adapter cables to the single fan channel? Or would I have to do as Shoggy said and get the Poweradjust 3? I'd really like to avoid that seeing as how I've already spent over $100 on the accessories.
> 
> 
> 
> You can not regulate anything, fan, or pump by the rpm cable. It just sends an rpm reading. If the power is coming from the molex and it is not pwm regulated the device will run at full speed. If you are using the PA adapter cable to put the pumps molex and rpm cable back into a standard fan type 3 pin and use a splitter you would leave one of the rpm cables from a pump disconnected from the splitter (if splitter cable does not do it) and make sure wattage of the two pumps together do not exceed the fan header rating. If wattage is ok you will be fine.
Click to expand...

rpm cables CAN NOT modulate speed. they just send a rpm signal that is it


----------



## TATH

It was a great idee to start a tread about the Aquero But i miss one thing.

Because whe often asking the same questions mayby IT Diva can make a index with a few links in the first post so people can find specific information:

- installing
- cables
- resistors
etc

I think this way whe can help each other quicker.

Shi..... fu..... Did dum mist the updated first page.

Great work Darlene


----------



## Mega Man

or... you can and she can quote you !


----------



## Buzz247

Figure this is the best place to ask AQ questions (right??







) but this one involves AQ 5 and a Multiswitch. Wanting to use the multiswitch to control my landing lights blazing beam light setup lol. But looking for sugg on how to connect so I don't blow anything up.
Using lighting parts:
12x Blue 3mm LEDs for XSPC blocks - no resistor since Multiswitch has built in capability (if I read right)
4x 5ft sections Blue 3014SMD 78mA/ft
6x 1ft sections Natural White 3014SMD 89mA/ft internal lighting
6x 1ft sections UV 3014SMD 72mA/ft - acrylic panel edge lighting

I want all to be controlled for independent color flooding - hit switch(es) blue turns on, switches for white, switches for UV, not always all on together but sometimes in different combinations, or all off even. was thinking the MS has the capability for the LED 3014 strips, and can divide them accordingly on the 8 screw terminal connections. If I have done my math right, that should not be an issue.

However, the LEDs for the blocks are a different story. The MS has 8 LED connections, but not sure if they can handle 2 bulbs on some of the connections. would be a parallel wiring since series, I would have to rely on forward voltage, which I don't think would work out.

Suggestions on wiring - or even making use of AQ5 connections too for this? (such as maybe the PWM output? dunno about that too much)


----------



## mandrix

You can control the lighting off any type of controller that regulates voltage, although it might not be the ideal way. Just don't overload anything.
As far as the pwm headers on the AQ5, they are good for 1A each.
Here's a handy site to help figure out led wiring/resistances:
http://ledcalc.com/


----------



## Buzz247

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mandrix*
> 
> You can control the lighting off any type of controller that regulates voltage, although it might not be the ideal way. Just don't overload anything.
> As far as the pwm headers on the AQ5, they are good for 1A each.
> Here's a handy site to help figure out led wiring/resistances:
> http://ledcalc.com/


Ty for the site - controlling I know I can do - just don't know if the LED lead can handle the 2 LEDs draw on it. Manual suggests 1 LED per connection. Puched the numbers into the site and got this:
5v supply
3.3 forward
30mA (went with higher value due to being a "megabrite" listing
Exact calculated resistance 56.67OHMS
Nearest higher rated resistor 68 OHMS

Wattage recommendation for the resistor 1/8 Watts
Circuit's total current consumption 50mA
Actual Single LED Current 25 mA
Power dissipated by the LED 23 mW
Power dissipated by the Resistor 43mW

Great information - but doesn't tell me about what the MS unit can handle - which is what I need to make sense of this lol


----------



## mandrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Buzz247*
> 
> Ty for the site - controlling I know I can do - just don't know if the LED lead can handle the 2 LEDs draw on it. Manual suggests 1 LED per connection. Puched the numbers into the site and got this:
> 5v supply
> 3.3 forward
> 30mA (went with higher value due to being a "megabrite" listing
> Exact calculated resistance 56.67OHMS
> Nearest higher rated resistor 68 OHMS
> 
> Wattage recommendation for the resistor 1/8 Watts
> Circuit's total current consumption 50mA
> Actual Single LED Current 25 mA
> Power dissipated by the LED 23 mW
> Power dissipated by the Resistor 43mW
> 
> Great information - but doesn't tell me about what the MS unit can handle - which is what I need to make sense of this lol


Can't help you there...I've never even seen a multiswitch. I'm sure Shoggy can give you whatever specs you need to know...just PM him or email [email protected]


----------



## Shoggy

The regular outputs on the multiswitch provide up to 10W while the overall power of channels should not exceed 40W. The LED channels are designed to be used with one LED. LEDs with 3V and 20mA can be used directly without any additional resistors.


----------



## mbreslin

Can someone expand more on the Corsair SP120 PWMs? "more than 5 or 6" is pretty vague. Does that mean for sure 5 per channel works?

My build will have 2x mcp50x (hoping pwm on the aq6 works fine on these as it does on the mcp35x) , 18 fans, 1 temp sensor, 1 flow sensor. Any chance I can get by with 1 AQ6XT?

I'm willing to slave a aq5lt if I have to.

Thanks.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Oh silly me....Where is the hole so I can hide in there...







Thks Rdking and Megaman for chiming in.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Buzz247*
> 
> Figure this is the best place to ask AQ questions (right??
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ) but this one involves AQ 5 and a Multiswitch. Wanting to use the multiswitch to control my landing lights blazing beam light setup lol. But looking for sugg on how to connect so I don't blow anything up.
> Using lighting parts:
> 12x Blue 3mm LEDs for XSPC blocks - no resistor since Multiswitch has built in capability (if I read right)
> 4x 5ft sections Blue 3014SMD 78mA/ft
> 6x 1ft sections Natural White 3014SMD 89mA/ft internal lighting
> 6x 1ft sections UV 3014SMD 72mA/ft - acrylic panel edge lighting
> 
> I want all to be controlled for independent color flooding - hit switch(es) blue turns on, switches for white, switches for UV, not always all on together but sometimes in different combinations, or all off even. was thinking the MS has the capability for the LED 3014 strips, and can divide them accordingly on the 8 screw terminal connections. If I have done my math right, that should not be an issue.
> 
> However, the LEDs for the blocks are a different story. The MS has 8 LED connections, but not sure if they can handle 2 bulbs on some of the connections. would be a parallel wiring since series, I would have to rely on forward voltage, which I don't think would work out.
> 
> Suggestions on wiring - or even making use of AQ5 connections too for this? (such as maybe the PWM output? dunno about that too much)


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> The regular outputs on the multiswitch provide up to 10W while the overall power of channels should not exceed 40W. The LED channels are designed to be used with one LED. LEDs with 3V and 20mA can be used directly without any additional resistors.


there is your specs, but the MS is EOL and GL finding one you can also use the relay or other relays to make it work !
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mbreslin*
> 
> Can someone expand more on the Corsair SP120 PWMs? "more than 5 or 6" is pretty vague. Does that mean for sure 5 per channel works?
> 
> My build will have 2x mcp50x (hoping pwm on the aq6 works fine on these as it does on the mcp35x) , 18 fans, 1 temp sensor, 1 flow sensor. Any chance I can get by with 1 AQ6XT?
> 
> I'm willing to slave a aq5lt if I have to.
> 
> Thanks.


you should be fine, i push all 4 mcp35xs 22 fans without issue on one of my aq 6s ( xt or pro wont matter ) and similar specs on my other one

i use the swiftech pwm splitter ( not the 8 way the 2 way ) because i like to read the rpm of the pumps ( mobo headers are useful for this ) but soon i will be making my own custom cables that do the same thing aka they pass through the pwm and 12v/ground but they separate the rpm signal to different headers
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Oh silly me....Where is the hole so I can hide in there...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thks Rdking and Megaman for chiming in.


np any time


----------



## mbreslin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> you should be fine, i push all 4 mcp35xs 22 fans without issue on one of my aq 6s ( xt or pro wont matter ) and similar specs on my other one
> 
> i use the swiftech pwm splitter ( not the 8 way the 2 way ) because i like to read the rpm of the pumps ( mobo headers are useful for this ) but soon i will be making my own custom cables that do the same thing aka they pass through the pwm and 12v/ground but they separate the rpm signal to different headers
> np any time


Thanks! I planned to only pass the pwm line to the aq and power everything I can from the psu, will that work?

(I will definitely not be watercooling the aq, I will grab the heatsink though)


----------



## WiLd FyeR

How do I update the firmware on the 6XT?


----------



## hiarc

Through the Aquasuite software: Aquaero tab -> System -> Firmware update/Factory defaults.


----------



## WiLd FyeR

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hiarc*
> 
> Through the Aquasuite software: Aquaero tab -> System -> Firmware update/Factory defaults.


Thanks REP+







I also need to connect the USB correct?


----------



## hiarc

I believe so, I have always had mine connected via USB and it makes sense too. xD


----------



## Gabrielzm

Yep, otherwise you will not be able to update the firmware that comes from the web and pass through the USB to the Aquaero.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mbreslin*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> you should be fine, i push all 4 mcp35xs 22 fans without issue on one of my aq 6s ( xt or pro wont matter ) and similar specs on my other one
> 
> i use the swiftech pwm splitter ( not the 8 way the 2 way ) because i like to read the rpm of the pumps ( mobo headers are useful for this ) but soon i will be making my own custom cables that do the same thing aka they pass through the pwm and 12v/ground but they separate the rpm signal to different headers
> np any time
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks! I planned to only pass the pwm line to the aq and power everything I can from the psu, will that work?
> 
> (I will definitely not be watercooling the aq, I will grab the heatsink though)
Click to expand...

Yes that is what I do unless you want to. I prefer my pumps to draw directly from psu.

Pretty sure pumps pull to many amps though
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiLd FyeR*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *hiarc*
> 
> Through the Aquasuite software: Aquaero tab -> System -> Firmware update/Factory defaults.
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks REP+
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I also need to connect the USB correct?
Click to expand...

correct


----------



## aaroc

A question for the Aquaero 6 users with the waterblock. Did you use TIM or the thermal pads between the waterblock and the passive heatsink? I read namrons review and he says Shoggy told him that he could use TIM or pads. Is there something to gain filling with pads the part where the middle screw of the water block is located, that part is recessed and dont make contact with the heatsink. Thanks!


----------



## mbreslin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> Yes that is what I do unless you want to. I prefer my pumps to draw directly from psu.
> 
> Pretty sure pumps pull to many amps though


Can you restate this? (no offense intended)


----------



## WiLd FyeR

Thanks REP+ Megaman


----------



## psycho84

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *aaroc*
> 
> A question for the Aquaero 6 users with the waterblock. Did you use TIM or the thermal pads between the waterblock and the passive heatsink? I read namrons review and he says Shoggy told him that he could use TIM or pads. Is there something to gain filling with pads the part where the middle screw of the water block is located, that part is recessed and dont make contact with the heatsink. Thanks!


I use the Thermal Pads who are deliviered with the Heatsink...


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *aaroc*
> 
> A question for the Aquaero 6 users with the waterblock. Did you use TIM or the thermal pads between the waterblock and the passive heatsink? I read namrons review and he says Shoggy told him that he could use TIM or pads. Is there something to gain filling with pads the part where the middle screw of the water block is located, that part is recessed and dont make contact with the heatsink. Thanks!


Either or. The water block is more for lookss than anything since they redesigned the aq5 ( the aq6 )
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mbreslin*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> Yes that is what I do unless you want to. I prefer my pumps to draw directly from psu.
> 
> Pretty sure pumps pull to many amps though
> 
> 
> 
> Can you restate this? (no offense intended)
Click to expand...

Np! yay auto correct on phone
Yes connect the pumps to the PSU .

You could mood them to pull power from the aquaero however I believe they need to many amps to do that (you would damage the aquaero )


----------



## mbreslin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> Np! yay auto correct on phone
> Yes connect the pumps to the PSU .
> 
> You could mood them to pull power from the aquaero however I believe they need to many amps to do that (you would damage the aquaero )


Great, thanks a lot!


----------



## RDKing2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mbreslin*
> 
> Can someone expand more on the Corsair SP120 PWMs? "more than 5 or 6" is pretty vague. Does that mean for sure 5 per channel works?
> 
> My build will have 2x mcp50x (hoping pwm on the aq6 works fine on these as it does on the mcp35x) , 18 fans, 1 temp sensor, 1 flow sensor. Any chance I can get by with 1 AQ6XT?
> 
> I'm willing to slave a aq5lt if I have to.
> 
> Thanks.


IIRC the original AQ6 crapped out (fans went full speed) when the fourth or fifth Corsair fan was connected via splitter. That is why the guesstimate is at least five or six with the new revision. Do not believe there have been any posts confirming the max amount of fans with the newer AQ6. Unfortunately slaving an AQ5 will not do you any good as the only PWM channel is voltage control only when slaved.


----------



## Mega Man

first you can use 2 aq and not slave them.

second the pwm is a known issue of corsair fans and not PWM fans


----------



## mbreslin

I will start with the fans and the AQ6 and make a harness and see where I stand. Thanks a lot for your responses MM.


----------



## Mega Man

just to note if you use 2 and not slave them they are 2 separate devices.

other then that let me know if you have any more qs !


----------



## Nichismo

does anyone have a good article or tutorial that thoroughly explains how to setup and use all of the XT 6?

im really having trouble even attempting to take advantage of some of the most basic functions. Im sort of overwhelmed with the amount of accessories and such too.

I have alot of questions (admittedly, some pretty stupid ones at that).

1. Do I need PWM fans in order to have control over them, or will anything work?

2. I have two MCP35x pumps that I constantly tweak, do I need a couple Poweradjusts? These are somewhat more confusing than other DDC pumps because they have a 4 pin cable and also a 4 pin Molex.

3. If I want to be able to power my PC on and off with the remote, do I need some sort of cable or adapter?

4. what are the differences in the RGB vs IR led ports? the PWM ones too?

5. which header do I plug the other end of the RPM cable to?

6. and possibly my stupidest question yet, which row of pins do I plug the motherboard end of the USB cable into? Im assuming ive got it wrong because my Aquaero doesnt seem to be registering what its hooked up to.


----------



## riesscar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mbreslin*
> 
> Can someone expand more on the Corsair SP120 PWMs? "more than 5 or 6" is pretty vague. Does that mean for sure 5 per channel works?
> 
> Thanks.


I have 8 sp120's running in my loop. When I split mine in order to stack them on fan channels on my AQ6. Given that the fans had auxiliary power via molex, and only pwm wires are in the fan housing, we can deduce that it is a pwm related issue; however the inability to control all fans was also present when attached to my MB CPU header. Do the issue lies not with the AQ6'z ability to handle stacked PWM fans, but with SP120s' not following the correct PWM implementation.

I was unable to control more than 5, but some (not many) have reported being able to control 6. That is why there is no definitive number. I would err on the side of caution and just assume that 5 is where you'll max out.

Remember, I can only attest to fans that are split by an auxiliary powered splitter (i.e. Molex/SATA).

-Carson


----------



## Shoggy

1.) The aquaero offers PWM and voltage control on all four channels so you can connect everything there.

2.) You need no poweradjusts as long as you are willing to use two of the channels for the pumps. In this case you need this adapter cable.

3.) In theory you would not need anything in addition if your mainboard supports a wake up on keyboard command correctly. The aquaero can send keyboard commands so it would start the PC without any additional accessory. Otherwise or to be on the safe side you will need a 3-pin plug for the relay where you would connect the power button of the case in parallel. This way the aquaero can "push" this button. It can be also used to shutdown the system in a hard way if a keyboard command does not work because of a program that hung up and blocks the shutdown sequence.

4.) The RGB port is for this LED. It allows you to visualize temperatures or alarms with different colors. The IR port can not be used yet. In the future it will allow you to control IR-enabled stuff like your TV or a HiFi system etc. The 2-pin PWM ports provide a pulsed 12V signal which can be used for LED stripes for example. To be able to connect something there you need a 2-pin plug.

5.) It is not necessary to use this cable at all. When connected to the tacho port on the aquaero you would connect the other end to the CPU fan header of the mainboard for example. It can be used to fake a fan and the signal can be also interrupted if a temperature is too high for example. This way the mainboard would think the CPU fan stopped working and depending on your BIOS configuration there could be an alarm or maybe the PC can be turned off.

6.) Normally the mainboard has a few sockets with two rows for USB. You only have to look for the missing pin to get the correct orientation. The side with the missing pin is always ground (black):


----------



## Buzz247

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> The regular outputs on the multiswitch provide up to 10W while the overall power of channels should not exceed 40W. The LED channels are designed to be used with one LED. LEDs with 3V and 20mA can be used directly without any additional resistors.


Ty - yes - I gathered as much from the quote from the manual. I might not have been clear as to my question. I am asking if there is any mod that can be done to allow 12 LEDs to be used and not harm the multiswitch. Usually, someone pipes in with "you could wire it like 'x' with 'x' resistor..." etc. So am I to gather that 8 LEDs is limit and nothing else can be done? is there a way to use the PWM ports on the AQ5 (read as mod wiring) to fire off and still control dual LED?

the purpose of this all is 4 LEDs on cpu block, 4 on ram block, and 2 on each of the 2 gpu blocks = total 12 leds. If answers to above are no, I will have to settle for 8LEDs but, would like to use all available if possible

Question not just for shoggy - open to others for wiring ideas too (he has to maintain company liability protocol so may not give me "hey try this" answers lol)


----------



## Shoggy

Using 12 LEDs on a regular channel (not LED channel) is no problem. You can connect them with a parallel setup for example:










The resistor type that you have to use will depend a bit on the LEDs that you want to use.

The PWM ports on the work pretty much the same way but you can not use them with a dual LED.


----------



## Buzz247

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> Using 12 LEDs on a regular channel (not LED channel) is no problem. You can connect them with a parallel setup for example:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The resistor type that you have to use will depend a bit on the LEDs that you want to use.
> 
> The PWM ports on the work pretty much the same way but you can not use them with a dual LED.


Ty - that actually just gave me an idea - and if I reworked the math right, I can fit all LED strips onto 7 channels and still maintain color switching independence, while using the 8th channel for all 12 LEDs on a parallel run. Just gotta recheck my math, an if it holds, get 4x 120ohm 1/8w resistors and I should be able to pull this off all on the reg channels not using LED channels


----------



## Nichismo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> 1.) The aquaero offers PWM and voltage control on all four channels so you can connect everything there.
> 
> 2.) You need no poweradjusts as long as you are willing to use two of the channels for the pumps. In this case you need this adapter cable.
> 
> 3.) In theory you would not need anything in addition if your mainboard supports a wake up on keyboard command correctly. The aquaero can send keyboard commands so it would start the PC without any additional accessory. Otherwise or to be on the safe side you will need a 3-pin plug for the relay where you would connect the power button of the case in parallel. This way the aquaero can "push" this button. It can be also used to shutdown the system in a hard way if a keyboard command does not work because of a program that hung up and blocks the shutdown sequence.
> 
> 4.) The RGB port is for this LED. It allows you to visualize temperatures or alarms with different colors. The IR port can not be used yet. In the future it will allow you to control IR-enabled stuff like your TV or a HiFi system etc. The 2-pin PWM ports provide a pulsed 12V signal which can be used for LED stripes for example. To be able to connect something there you need a 2-pin plug.
> 
> 5.) It is not necessary to use this cable at all. When connected to the tacho port on the aquaero you would connect the other end to the CPU fan header of the mainboard for example. It can be used to fake a fan and the signal can be also interrupted if a temperature is too high for example. This way the mainboard would think the CPU fan stopped working and depending on your BIOS configuration there could be an alarm or maybe the PC can be turned off.
> 
> 6.) Normally the mainboard has a few sockets with two rows for USB. You only have to look for the missing pin to get the correct orientation. The side with the missing pin is always ground (black):


wow, I never expect to post as many questions as I did on my favorite forum, and then suddenly have a hardware representative from that actual company that produces the item im discussing! especially as swiftly as you did!

thank you very much

also, how do I use the software? after installing it, I just seem to get blank windows, so to speak.


----------



## Shoggy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Buzz247*
> 
> Ty - that actually just gave me an idea - and if I reworked the math right, I can fit all LED strips onto 7 channels and still maintain color switching independence, while using the 8th channel for all 12 LEDs on a parallel run. Just gotta recheck my math, an if it holds, get 4x 120ohm 1/8w resistors and I should be able to pull this off all on the reg channels not using LED channels


I am not sure about the color switching thing that you mention here. If you are talking about a stripe that has for wires then it will not work this way. Most RGB stripes use three wires for the ground and only one for power which you can not handle with the multiswitch.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Buzz247*
> 
> also, how do I use the software? after installing it, I just seem to get blank windows, so to speak.


You will find a basic guide here.


----------



## mbreslin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *riesscar*
> 
> I have 8 sp120's running in my loop. When I split mine in order to stack them on fan channels on my AQ6. Given that the fans had auxiliary power via molex, and only pwm wires are in the fan housing, we can deduce that it is a pwm related issue; however the inability to control all fans was also present when attached to my MB CPU header. Do the issue lies not with the AQ6'z ability to handle stacked PWM fans, but with SP120s' not following the correct PWM implementation.
> 
> I was unable to control more than 5, but some (not many) have reported being able to control 6. That is why there is no definitive number. I would err on the side of caution and just assume that 5 is where you'll max out.
> 
> Remember, I can only attest to fans that are split by an auxiliary powered splitter (i.e. Molex/SATA).
> 
> -Carson


Thanks! I will make a test harness and see how many I can control per channel before I make the more permanent harnesses.


----------



## Buzz247

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> I am not sure about the color switching thing that you mention here. If you are talking about a stripe that has for wires then it will not work this way. Most RGB stripes use three wires for the ground and only one for power which you can not handle with the multiswitch.
> You will find a basic guide here.


Oh sorry - by color switching was referring to using 3014SMD UV, Blue, and White single color, not RGB, strips on separate regular channels for separate switching by the multiswitch, and same with LEDs

That question was not posted by me, but in @Nichismo's post for that guide link mentioned


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nichismo*
> 
> does anyone have a good article or tutorial that thoroughly explains how to setup and use all of the XT 6?
> 
> im really having trouble even attempting to take advantage of some of the most basic functions. Im sort of overwhelmed with the amount of accessories and such too.
> 
> I have alot of questions (admittedly, some pretty stupid ones at that).
> 
> 1. Do I need PWM fans in order to have control over them, or will anything work?
> 
> 2. I have two MCP35x pumps that I constantly tweak, do I need a couple Poweradjusts? These are somewhat more confusing than other DDC pumps because they have a 4 pin cable and also a 4 pin Molex.
> 
> 3. If I want to be able to power my PC on and off with the remote, do I need some sort of cable or adapter?
> 
> 4. what are the differences in the RGB vs IR led ports? the PWM ones too?
> 
> 5. which header do I plug the other end of the RPM cable to?
> 
> 6. and possibly my stupidest question yet, which row of pins do I plug the motherboard end of the USB cable into? Im assuming ive got it wrong because my Aquaero doesnt seem to be registering what its hooked up to.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> 1.) The aquaero offers PWM and voltage control on all four channels so you can connect everything there.
> 
> 2.) You need no poweradjusts as long as you are willing to use two of the channels for the pumps. In this case you need this adapter cable.
> 
> 3.) In theory you would not need anything in addition if your mainboard supports a wake up on keyboard command correctly. The aquaero can send keyboard commands so it would start the PC without any additional accessory. Otherwise or to be on the safe side you will need a 3-pin plug for the relay where you would connect the power button of the case in parallel. This way the aquaero can "push" this button. It can be also used to shutdown the system in a hard way if a keyboard command does not work because of a program that hung up and blocks the shutdown sequence.
> 
> 4.) The RGB port is for this LED. It allows you to visualize temperatures or alarms with different colors. The IR port can not be used yet. In the future it will allow you to control IR-enabled stuff like your TV or a HiFi system etc. The 2-pin PWM ports provide a pulsed 12V signal which can be used for LED stripes for example. To be able to connect something there you need a 2-pin plug.
> 
> 5.) It is not necessary to use this cable at all. When connected to the tacho port on the aquaero you would connect the other end to the CPU fan header of the mainboard for example. It can be used to fake a fan and the signal can be also interrupted if a temperature is too high for example. This way the mainboard would think the CPU fan stopped working and depending on your BIOS configuration there could be an alarm or maybe the PC can be turned off.
> 
> 6.) Normally the mainboard has a few sockets with two rows for USB. You only have to look for the missing pin to get the correct orientation. The side with the missing pin is always ground (black):


As usual he is right

Expect for #2

You do not need that cable.

You can run your pumps off 2 headers without any additional cabling.

If you want to run them off of one swiftech sells either a one to 2 pwm splitter (the plus to this is you can monitor both pumps rpm independently while controlling them from one pwm. I use this and run the rpm output to my Mobo ) or a 8 way splitter ( only reports rpm from one channel )

I will try to find a few pages I used to learn about it when I get home for you.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Buzz247*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> The regular outputs on the multiswitch provide up to 10W while the overall power of channels should not exceed 40W. The LED channels are designed to be used with one LED. LEDs with 3V and 20mA can be used directly without any additional resistors.
> 
> 
> 
> Ty - yes - I gathered as much from the quote from the manual. I might not have been clear as to my question. I am asking if there is any mod that can be done to allow 12 LEDs to be used and not harm the multiswitch. Usually, someone pipes in with "you could wire it like 'x' with 'x' resistor..." etc. So am I to gather that 8 LEDs is limit and nothing else can be done? is there a way to use the PWM ports on the AQ5 (read as mod wiring) to fire off and still control dual LED?
> 
> the purpose of this all is 4 LEDs on cpu block, 4 on ram block, and 2 on each of the 2 gpu blocks = total 12 leds. If answers to above are no, I will have to settle for 8LEDs but, would like to use all available if possible
> 
> Question not just for shoggy - open to others for wiring ideas too (he has to maintain company liability protocol so may not give me "hey try this" answers lol)
Click to expand...

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Buzz247*
> 
> Ty - that actually just gave me an idea - and if I reworked the math right, I can fit all LED strips onto 7 channels and still maintain color switching independence, while using the 8th channel for all 12 LEDs on a parallel run. Just gotta recheck my math, an if it holds, get 4x 120ohm 1/8w resistors and I should be able to pull this off all on the reg channels not using LED channels
> 
> 
> 
> I am not sure about the color switching thing that you mention here. If you are talking about a stripe that has for wires then it will not work this way. Most RGB stripes use three wires for the ground and only one for power which you can not handle with the multiswitch.
Click to expand...

I can get anyone a link to where to buy something ( not for the multi switch but the aquaero ) for controlling RGB when I get home if anyone wants it

As to using leds.
I did give you a diff option you did not hear it.

You can use a relay . Let me know and I can guide you as to how to use. On mobile and can't edit any more it is driving me nuts


----------



## Buzz247

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> As to using leds.
> I did give you a diff option you did not hear it.
> 
> You can use a relay . Let me know and I can guide you as to how to use. On mobile and can't edit any more it is driving me nuts


Sorry - ya I did miss that part. That is a very possible option and would be interested in it. I assume it would be a relay triggered by the LED connection voltage? Depending on how detailed your reply is, feel free to shoot me a PM with details and what parts I would need


----------



## Mega Man

the easiest to use is this one

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Temperature-Controller-3-32VDC-5-110VDC-JGX-40A-AC-AC-Solid-State-Relay-/321058606317?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item4ac0958ced

conect the power from the 2 wires ( from tthe aq ) to it, and then wire the power from your psu through the other side to the led ( 4 wires )

much cheaper version

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Relay-Module-for-Micro-Controllers-Arduino-5v-3-3V-125V-Switch-Large-Loads-/231123851368?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item35d00e1868

http://www.ebay.com/itm/4-Channel-Optic-Isolated-Relay-Module-Low-Trigger-3-3V-5V-Arduino-Raspberry-PI-/221393795940?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_2&hash=item338c193b64

http://www.ebay.com/itm/8-Channel-5V-Relay-Module-Board-Shield-for-Arduino-PIC-AVR-MCU-DSP-ARM-US-Stock-/360717697832?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item53fc734328

as you can see the sky is the limit ( the big rectangle things are the relays in these links you get 1,4,8 respectively

however i struggle with them as i never use them and always forget how to wire them, fear not only takes a little research to find out,

( power in on one pin, ground another, and the third {assuming one relay board} either gets power or goes to ground depending on which you use, you would need a datasheet on it you want the one that gets power on the third pin, ) ill try to look it up tonight to give you a def answer ! )


----------



## Buzz247

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> the easiest to use is this one
> 
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/4-Channel-Optic-Isolated-Relay-Module-Low-Trigger-3-3V-5V-Arduino-Raspberry-PI-/221393795940?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_2&hash=item338c193b64
> 
> ( power in on one pin, ground another, and the third {assuming one relay board} either gets power or goes to ground depending on which you use, you would need a datasheet on it you want the one that gets power on the third pin, ) ill try to look it up tonight to give you a def answer ! )


So using the one in link above, would go something like this I think:

Correct me if I messed up something of course.
This would then allow:

using 82ohm 1/8w as resistors

This should allow to stay within wattage of MS output limits with strips and relays, and 1 switch each controlling 4 LED for cpu block, 4LED for RAM block, 2x2 LED for GPU blocks. Miss anything?

My other option Shoggy made me think of, using only reg channels
Ch1 5ft Blue 3014SMD = 390mA
Ch2 5ft Blue 3014SMD = 390mA
Ch3 5ft Blue 3014SMD = 390mA
Ch4 5ft Blue 3014SMD = 390mA
Ch5 6ft UV 3014SMD = 432mA
Ch6 5ft Nat White 3014 = 445mA
Ch7 3ft Blue 3014SMD = 234mA
Ch8 12x 3mmLED 120Ohm= 70mA
total = 2741mA - or 32.9W


----------



## TATH

Yes i admit "i am guilty" i do love the Aquero's









So i decide to spent more money at AquaComputer so the boys can go on holliday .







"ha ha o yes and i am nod going \ joking".



So i think Darlene you can at two more Aquero's at my account ( 2 x Aquero's 6 XT) .

Ill be back


----------



## Newtocooling

I finally have a picture to show my Aquaero sorry for the quality!

I

Is it ok to join the club?

On Nam's guide when he changes the faceplate he mentions clear washers seperating the screen, he was using a 5 I have the 6xt and I had no washers is that a problem?


----------



## siffonen

Is it possible to connect two led with resistor directly to aquaero 6?
Manual says that it is possible to connect leds without resistors, but i only have led with allready soldered resistors


----------



## aaroc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Newtocooling*
> 
> On Nam's guide when he changes the faceplate he mentions clear washers seperating the screen, he was using a 5 I have the 6xt and I had no washers is that a problem?


I changed black plate two days ago and mine didnt come with the plastic spacers.


----------



## Newtocooling

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *aaroc*
> 
> I changed black plate two days ago and mine didnt come with the plastic spacers.


Thanks that makes me feel better I didn't think I could loose all four!


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Buzz247*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> the easiest to use is this one
> 
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/4-Channel-Optic-Isolated-Relay-Module-Low-Trigger-3-3V-5V-Arduino-Raspberry-PI-/221393795940?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_2&hash=item338c193b64
> 
> ( power in on one pin, ground another, and the third {assuming one relay board} either gets power or goes to ground depending on which you use, you would need a datasheet on it you want the one that gets power on the third pin, ) ill try to look it up tonight to give you a def answer ! )
> 
> 
> 
> So using the one in link above, would go something like this I think:
> 
> Correct me if I messed up something of course.
> This would then allow:
> 
> using 82ohm 1/8w as resistors
> 
> This should allow to stay within wattage of MS output limits with strips and relays, and 1 switch each controlling 4 LED for cpu block, 4LED for RAM block, 2x2 LED for GPU blocks. Miss anything?
> 
> My other option Shoggy made me think of, using only reg channels
> Ch1 5ft Blue 3014SMD = 390mA
> Ch2 5ft Blue 3014SMD = 390mA
> Ch3 5ft Blue 3014SMD = 390mA
> Ch4 5ft Blue 3014SMD = 390mA
> Ch5 6ft UV 3014SMD = 432mA
> Ch6 5ft Nat White 3014 = 445mA
> Ch7 3ft Blue 3014SMD = 234mA
> Ch8 12x 3mmLED 120Ohm= 70mA
> total = 2741mA - or 32.9W
Click to expand...

I can't see the wiring well. But why use resisters at all? Assuming you ate running through a relay just supply 3.3v rather then 12V if your sata wires from your psu had 5 word it would be really easy. Watts won't matter and there is no reason you could not run all of them from it. Would take alot of leds to over power either your psu or your relay
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Newtocooling*
> 
> I finally have a picture to show my Aquaero sorry for the quality!
> 
> I
> 
> Is it ok to join the club?
> 
> On Nam's guide when he changes the faceplate he mentions clear washers seperating the screen, he was using a 5 I have the 6xt and I had no washers is that a problem?


Mine didn't either ( all 3 of mine)


----------



## Nornam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Newtocooling*
> 
> I finally have a picture to show my Aquaero sorry for the quality!
> 
> I
> 
> Is it ok to join the club?
> 
> On Nam's guide when he changes the faceplate he mentions clear washers seperating the screen, he was using a 5 I have the 6xt and I had no washers is that a problem?


The washers were/are only in the older 5 Aquaero's... Sorry for not updating the guide yet (unfortunately real life issues have rather taken up my time)







...... I'll update the guide now to point this out







...

Nam..


----------



## Newtocooling

Thanks Mega Man and Norman! Don't worry about it Norman the guide was such a tremendous help to me the first time I setup my Aquaero. Aquacomputer should be sending you some cash for all the great work you've done for them!!


----------



## Nornam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Newtocooling*
> 
> Thanks Mega Man and Norman! Don't worry about it Norman the guide was such a tremendous help to me the first time I setup my Aquaero. Aquacomputer should be sending you some cash for all the great work you've done for them!!


Great that you've found the guides helpful & thanks for the feedback I appreciate it greatly







...

Unfortunately most the AC gear I've had to get myself (probably 75% The very good people at ST have provided the other 20%) for the guides hence why it takes so long to get some of the guides up as I have to save up my beer tokens to get the gear to do them but not had anything from AC themselves at all for the guides e.t.c







... But then it was me who choose to do the guides I suppose so can't expect AC to just hand stuff over... As nice as that would have been had they mind







& would have meant I could have got more done..

Thanks again

Nam..


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nornam*
> 
> Great that you've found the guides helpful & thanks for the feedback I appreciate it greatly
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ...
> 
> Unfortunately most the AC gear I've had to get myself (probably 75% The very good people at ST have provided the other 20%) for the guides hence why it takes so long to get some of the guides up as I have to save up my beer tokens to get the gear to do them but not had anything from AC themselves at all for the guides e.t.c
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ... But then it was me who choose to do the guides I suppose so can't expect AC to just hand stuff over... As nice as that would have been had they mind
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> & would have meant I could have got more done..
> 
> Thanks again
> 
> Nam..


The guides are really good Norman and I have been recommending to those starting with the Aquaero (like me) around here. Thks a lot for the time and effort


----------



## IT Diva

Let me offer a really short, but hopefully helpful, bit of info on LED's.

Leds are Not like bulbs, which have some internal resistance so that when you apply a specified voltage, they light up just fine.

Leds are like an avalanche, . . . . . up to some level of applied voltage, and they don't allow any current, ie: electrons, to flow.

As soon as you reach the forward voltage threshold, they allow electrons to flow, virtually without restriction. Look at it as no internal resistance above the Vf.

To keep the flow of electrons controlled, so that the Led doesn't self destruct, at the least, a resistor is placed in series with it. . . or for large numbers of Leds, some more sophisticated electronic current control circuitry could be employed

The range of voltage that you could possibly use an led without a resistor, is only around a couple tenths, if that, above the Vf level.

The threshold, or forward voltage, Vf, level for Leds is a function of its doping and tends to have a close range for each color.

White has the highest Vf, at around 3.4 to 3.6V

Blue is next in the 3.2 to 3.4V range

Green around 2.7V

Yellow around 2.3V

Red is the lowest at ~1.7V

When you see Leds advertised for use with some voltage, that means that they have appropriate resistors or circuitry to limit the current to safe levels at that voltage.

If you have i*dentical* Leds in parallel, you can use just a single resistor in series with the parallel string.

If you were to have different colors in parallel, and used a single resistor . . . then only the one(s) with the lowest Vf would light up

If you want to have different colors in parallel, you'd need a resistor for each one.

If you want to better understand Leds, you might want to get some in different colors from Radio Shack, along with a 9V battery and some 1/4W resistors in 330 ohm, 470 ohm, 680 ohm and 1K ohm values.

Set up the different color Leds with different resistors and use a multi-meter to measure the voltage across the Led itself.

No matter which resistor you use, the voltage across each led will stay the same, and be different for each color.

You'll also see that as you increase the resistor value for each color, which increasingly limits the electron or current flow, it will be progressively less bright

You could also verify that if you put, for example, a green and a white Led in parallel . . that only the green one will light up.

If you found this interesting and want a bit more on resistor sizing and such, let me know.

Darlene


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Let me offer a really short, but hopefully helpful, bit of info on LED's.
> 
> Leds are Not like bulbs, which have some internal resistance so that when you apply a specified voltage, they light up just fine.
> 
> Leds are like an avalanche, . . . . . up to some level of applied voltage, and they don't allow any current, ie: electrons, to flow.
> 
> As soon as you reach the forward voltage threshold, they allow electrons to flow, virtually without restriction. Look at it as no internal resistance above the Vf.
> 
> To keep the flow of electrons controlled, so that the Led doesn't self destruct, at the least, a resistor is placed in series with it. . . or for large numbers of Leds, some more sophisticated electronic current control circuitry could be employed
> 
> The range of voltage that you could possibly use an led without a resistor, is only around a couple tenths, if that, above the Vf level.
> 
> The threshold, or forward voltage, Vf, level for Leds is a function of its doping and tends to have a close range for each color.
> 
> White has the highest Vf, at around 3.4 to 3.6V
> 
> Blue is next in the 3.2 to 3.4V range
> 
> Green around 2.7V
> 
> Yellow around 2.3V
> 
> Red is the lowest at ~1.7V
> 
> When you see Leds advertised for use with some voltage, that means that they have appropriate resistors or circuitry to limit the current to safe levels at that voltage.
> 
> If you have i*dentical* Leds in parallel, you can use just a single resistor in series with the parallel string.
> 
> If you were to have different colors in parallel, and used a single resistor . . . then only the one(s) with the lowest Vf would light up
> 
> If you want to have different colors in parallel, you'd need a resistor for each one.
> 
> If you want to better understand Leds, you might want to get some in different colors from Radio Shack, along with a 9V battery and some 1/4W resistors in 330 ohm, 470 ohm, 680 ohm and 1K ohm values.
> 
> Set up the different color Leds with different resistors and use a multi-meter to measure the voltage across the Led itself.
> 
> No matter which resistor you use, the voltage across each led will stay the same, and be different for each color.
> 
> You'll also see that as you increase the resistor value for each color, which increasingly limits the electron or current flow, it will be progressively less bright
> 
> You could also verify that if you put, for example, a green and a white Led in parallel . . that only the green one will light up.
> 
> _*
> If you found this interesting and want a bit more on resistor sizing and such, let me know.
> *_
> Darlene


yes please, maybe dues a sticky in the op too !

this kind of electronics are the newest to me, and i guess i was wrong , sorry !


----------



## Blackspots

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Let me offer a really short, but hopefully helpful, bit of info on LED's.
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Leds are Not like bulbs, which have some internal resistance so that when you apply a specified voltage, they light up just fine.
> 
> Leds are like an avalanche, . . . . . up to some level of applied voltage, and they don't allow any current, ie: electrons, to flow.
> 
> As soon as you reach the forward voltage threshold, they allow electrons to flow, virtually without restriction. Look at it as no internal resistance above the Vf.
> 
> To keep the flow of electrons controlled, so that the Led doesn't self destruct, at the least, a resistor is placed in series with it. . . or for large numbers of Leds, some more sophisticated electronic current control circuitry could be employed
> 
> The range of voltage that you could possibly use an led without a resistor, is only around a couple tenths, if that, above the Vf level.
> 
> The threshold, or forward voltage, Vf, level for Leds is a function of its doping and tends to have a close range for each color.
> 
> White has the highest Vf, at around 3.4 to 3.6V
> 
> Blue is next in the 3.2 to 3.4V range
> 
> Green around 2.7V
> 
> Yellow around 2.3V
> 
> Red is the lowest at ~1.7V
> 
> When you see Leds advertised for use with some voltage, that means that they have appropriate resistors or circuitry to limit the current to safe levels at that voltage.
> 
> If you have i*dentical* Leds in parallel, you can use just a single resistor in series with the parallel string.
> 
> If you were to have different colors in parallel, and used a single resistor . . . then only the one(s) with the lowest Vf would light up
> 
> If you want to have different colors in parallel, you'd need a resistor for each one.
> 
> If you want to better understand Leds, you might want to get some in different colors from Radio Shack, along with a 9V battery and some 1/4W resistors in 330 ohm, 470 ohm, 680 ohm and 1K ohm values.
> 
> Set up the different color Leds with different resistors and use a multi-meter to measure the voltage across the Led itself.
> 
> No matter which resistor you use, the voltage across each led will stay the same, and be different for each color.
> 
> You'll also see that as you increase the resistor value for each color, which increasingly limits the electron or current flow, it will be progressively less bright
> 
> You could also verify that if you put, for example, a green and a white Led in parallel . . that only the green one will light up.
> 
> 
> 
> If you found this interesting and want a bit more on resistor sizing and such, let me know.
> 
> Darlene


When you refer to a white LED, are you referring to an RGB white LED or a white LED that's actually a blue LED with phosphors that convert the light to a specific K white color (like 2700, 3400, 4100, 5000 or 6000K)?


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blackspots*
> 
> When you refer to a white LED, are you referring to an RGB white LED or a white LED that's actually a blue LED with phosphors that convert the light to a specific K white color (like 2700, 3400, 4100, 5000 or 6000K)?


Pretty sure Darlene was talking about something like these:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/50-pcs-WHITE-LED-3mm-/111308540284
http://www.ebay.com/itm/300pcs-3mm-5mm-LED-Light-White-Yellow-Red-Green-Blue-Assorted-Kit-DIY-LEDs-Set-/121335651801


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blackspots*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Let me offer a really short, but hopefully helpful, bit of info on LED's.
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Leds are Not like bulbs, which have some internal resistance so that when you apply a specified voltage, they light up just fine.
> 
> Leds are like an avalanche, . . . . . up to some level of applied voltage, and they don't allow any current, ie: electrons, to flow.
> 
> As soon as you reach the forward voltage threshold, they allow electrons to flow, virtually without restriction. Look at it as no internal resistance above the Vf.
> 
> To keep the flow of electrons controlled, so that the Led doesn't self destruct, at the least, a resistor is placed in series with it. . . or for large numbers of Leds, some more sophisticated electronic current control circuitry could be employed
> 
> The range of voltage that you could possibly use an led without a resistor, is only around a couple tenths, if that, above the Vf level.
> 
> The threshold, or forward voltage, Vf, level for Leds is a function of its doping and tends to have a close range for each color.
> 
> White has the highest Vf, at around 3.4 to 3.6V
> 
> Blue is next in the 3.2 to 3.4V range
> 
> Green around 2.7V
> 
> Yellow around 2.3V
> 
> Red is the lowest at ~1.7V
> 
> When you see Leds advertised for use with some voltage, that means that they have appropriate resistors or circuitry to limit the current to safe levels at that voltage.
> 
> If you have i*dentical* Leds in parallel, you can use just a single resistor in series with the parallel string.
> 
> If you were to have different colors in parallel, and used a single resistor . . . then only the one(s) with the lowest Vf would light up
> 
> If you want to have different colors in parallel, you'd need a resistor for each one.
> 
> If you want to better understand Leds, you might want to get some in different colors from Radio Shack, along with a 9V battery and some 1/4W resistors in 330 ohm, 470 ohm, 680 ohm and 1K ohm values.
> 
> Set up the different color Leds with different resistors and use a multi-meter to measure the voltage across the Led itself.
> 
> No matter which resistor you use, the voltage across each led will stay the same, and be different for each color.
> 
> You'll also see that as you increase the resistor value for each color, which increasingly limits the electron or current flow, it will be progressively less bright
> 
> You could also verify that if you put, for example, a green and a white Led in parallel . . that only the green one will light up.
> 
> 
> 
> If you found this interesting and want a bit more on resistor sizing and such, let me know.
> 
> Darlene
> 
> 
> 
> When you refer to a white LED, are you referring to an RGB white LED or a white LED that's actually a blue LED with phosphors that convert the light to a specific K white color (like 2700, 3400, 4100, 5000 or 6000K)?
Click to expand...

The two wire white ones that only have white as a possible color...

The RGB Leds are truly 3 separate diode junctions physically in very close proximity, each requiring its own current limiting scheme, with a different Vf for each one.

When you look at RGB Led strips, you'll see either 3 small surface mount resistors near each Led, (one for each color) or in other cases, there are 3 resistors per each cuttable increment of the strip with each of the same color junctions in parallel.

The issue with using a single resistor for junctions in parallel, is that if one of the junctions fails, then each of the others gets the current that the failed one used to get, distributed amongst them. . . . and if multiple junctions fail, then the others get too much current and self destruct. . . . but with much fewer resistors and solder points they can be made cheaper.

Really, the hardest thing for most people to comprehend when working with LEDs, is the avalanche concept, and therefor the need to limit the current flow thru them, . . . . that if you take a white or blue LED, for example, and use a AA battery it won't light at all, even dimly, and if you try with 2 AA batteries, as long as they are not still like new with over 1.6V, it still won't light up at all, and that if you add a 3rd battery, it'll light very brightly for a moment and self destruct.

D.


----------



## Buzz247

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Pretty sure Darlene was talking about something like these:
> 
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/50-pcs-WHITE-LED-3mm-/111308540284
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/300pcs-3mm-5mm-LED-Light-White-Yellow-Red-Green-Blue-Assorted-Kit-DIY-LEDs-Set-/121335651801
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


There is a difference between what is shown in your links and what Darlene was describing. In that link/photo, those are all "white" LEDs with colored "bulbs on them to create a color output. All of those LEDs would have same vF. If you see a colored bulb, it is a good likelihood and indication they all have the same vF and can be used without variance in a parallel run.

LEDs that are clear "bulbs", but internally produce coloration is where you run into what Darlene was describing with varying vF, such as in THIS link. This is where you would have to do a little math, or use a site like www.ledcalc.com, to match resistance and bulbs for proper flow and function.

edit: I should add, regardless of what type of above LED you use, if they are for example, rated as 3v LED, and you want to feed them off of a 12v wire, you would have to use a resistor, or a few, to drop voltage to safe levels if it is not specifically indicated by the manufacturer that they have internal circuitry to prevent overvolting Please see below correction by ITDiva for proper explanation. A phrase such as "Add a 470 Ohm Resistor for use with 12V or a 100 Ohm resistor for use with 5V sources" found on THIS item would mean it does not have internal circuitry for use unassisted with anything but 3v. Due to vF resistance, sometimes it is advantageous to use a higher voltage like 12v, step it down with resistors, to power many LEDs. If you have a bunch of 3v LED with 3.3vF you want to power, running off of a 3.3v line would not be enough to power more than just a few in parallel.

I know enough to make me dangerous lol - TY Darlene for the write up explanation in detail


----------



## MrPT

Hej guys, just got my aq 5 pro, and i have a 1 problem. After pc shutdown aq is still working. There is info about shutdown on aq screen, but aq is till working until i plug of usb cable. I guess this isn't normal but have no idea where to start looking for solution of this.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Buzz247*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Pretty sure Darlene was talking about something like these:
> 
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/50-pcs-WHITE-LED-3mm-/111308540284
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/300pcs-3mm-5mm-LED-Light-White-Yellow-Red-Green-Blue-Assorted-Kit-DIY-LEDs-Set-/121335651801
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There is a difference between what is shown in your links and what Darlene was describing. In that link/photo, those are all "white" LEDs with colored "bulbs on them to create a color output. All of those LEDs would have same vF. If you see a colored bulb, it is a good likelihood and indication they all have the same vF and can be used without variance in a parallel run.
> 
> LEDs that are clear "bulbs", but internally produce coloration is where you run into what Darlene was describing with varying vF, such as in THIS link. This is where you would have to do a little math, or use a site like www.ledcalc.com, to match resistance and bulbs for proper flow and function.
> 
> edit: I should add, regardless of what type of above LED you use, *if they are for example, rated as 3v LED, and you want to feed them off of a 12v wire, you would have to use a resistor, or a few, to drop voltage to safe levels* if it is not specifically indicated by the manufacturer that they have internal circuitry to prevent overvolting. A phrase such as "Add a 470 Ohm Resistor for use with 12V or a 100 Ohm resistor for use with 5V sources" found on THIS item would mean it does not have internal circuitry for use unassisted with anything but 3v. Due to vF resistance, sometimes it is advantageous to use a higher voltage like 12v, step it down with resistors, to power many LEDs. If you have a bunch of 3v LED with 3.3vF you want to power, running off of a 3.3v line would not be enough to power more than just a few in parallel.
> 
> I know enough to make me dangerous lol - TY Darlene for the write up explanation in detail
Click to expand...

This is the misunderstanding that I'm trying to correct, that using resistors in series with the led is used to drop voltage . . . . . That's not what they do, although it may sort of seem that way . . .

They control the current by being the actual load to the supply voltage with the led being rather incidentally in series with it.

If they directly dropped the voltage, then different resistor values would show up as different voltages at the LED pin connected to it.

That doesn't happen.

Use a 330 ohm resistor on a white Led, (Vf at a nominal 3.6V) on the 12V supply, and you'll get 25ma of current thru the resistor and led.

The voltage measured from the led/resistor junction to ground will be Vf, or ~3.6V. . . . the voltage across the resistor will be 8.4V

If you substitute a 1K ohm resistor for the 330 ohm in the above example, you'll now get 8.4 ma of current, and a much dimmer led, but you'll still have the same voltages as before.

Darlene


----------



## Buzz247

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> This is the misunderstanding that I'm trying to correct, that using resistors in series with the led is used to drop voltage . . . . . That's not what they do, although it may sort of seem that way . . .
> 
> Darlene


There we go - right idea with wrong wording of concept lol thank you for the correction. See? Know enough to be dangerous! LOLz

The relation of voltage to amperage I was fumbling at, but missed the boat a bit.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrPT*
> 
> Hej guys, just got my aq 5 pro, and i have a 1 problem. After pc shutdown aq is still working. There is info about shutdown on aq screen, but aq is till working until i plug of usb cable. I guess this isn't normal but have no idea where to start looking for solution of this.


this is normal, and intended, usb has standby power


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrPT*
> 
> Hej guys, just got my aq 5 pro, and i have a 1 problem. After pc shutdown aq is still working. There is info about shutdown on aq screen, but aq is till working until i plug of usb cable. I guess this isn't normal but have no idea where to start looking for solution of this.


This is normal. Your motherboard supplies 5V to USB connections even when the PC is 'switched off'.


----------



## mbreslin

I can control fans with the aq without the software yes? It will likely take some time to choose the best looking x99 mb but I'd like to do as much wiring as I can in the mean time.

Thanks.


----------



## MrPT

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> This is normal. Your motherboard supplies 5V to USB connections even when the PC is 'switched off'.


Thanks, I was worried because AQ4 that I used before switch off with computer. Just figured i can set stand by screen and now have fancy clock inside pc


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mbreslin*
> 
> I can control fans with the aq without the software yes? It will likely take some time to choose the best looking x99 mb but I'd like to do as much wiring as I can in the mean time.
> 
> Thanks.


The Aquaero works entirely independent of the software. Aquasuite is mostly there to make it easier to configure than fiddling with the buttons on the front screen.


----------



## mbreslin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> The Aquaero works entirely independent of the software. Aquasuite is mostly there to make it easier to configure than fiddling with the buttons on the front screen.


Great thanks!


----------



## Daggi

Hi
I have a small question about my Aquaero 6 Pro. When I set the upper display limit to 10.0 liters / minute, so it appears only 0.1 liters / minute in the display. But when I put the upper display limit of 600.0 it will appear as 10.0 liters / minute. Is there a bug in my Aquaero or is it Aquasuite causing the problem? I use Aquasuite version 2014 to 2.3. to set all settings. It has no importance to my part, but I'm curious of what it might be. I do not have this problem on my Aquaero 5 Pro


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Daggi*
> 
> Hi
> I have a small question about my Aquaero 6 Pro. When I set the upper display limit to 10.0 liters / minute, so it appears only 0.1 liters / minute in the display. But when I put the upper display limit of 600.0 it will appear as 10.0 liters / minute. Is there a bug in my Aquaero or is it Aquasuite causing the problem? I use Aquasuite version 2014 to 2.3. to set all settings. It has no importance to my part, but I'm curious of what it might be. I do not have this problem on my Aquaero 5 Pro


I can't help but notice that 600 is 60 times what you want . . .

Could it be you have to set upper limit in L/H so the current display is L/m?

I'm in the GPM part of the world, but the proportion just jumped out.

D.


----------



## Daggi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> I can't help but notice that 600 is 60 times what you want . . .
> 
> Could it be you have to set upper limit in L/H so the current display is L/m?
> 
> I'm in the GPM part of the world, but the proportion just jumped out.
> 
> D.


All settings are set to liters / minute, so I'm kind of lost what it could be. But I think it could be an Aquasuite related problem.


----------



## MeanBruce

Has anyone linked an AquaComputer Aquabus USB D5 to an Aquaero 6 via Aquabus?

Getting ready to right now, hoping for additional functionality and the pump controls will select under Aquaero in the software instead of MPS, not sure about that last part.

http://s1177.photobucket.com/user/MeanBruce/media/IMG_8716_zpsfe97b914.jpg.html

There's no reason to maintain Aquabus and USB connections for the AquaComputer D5 is there?


----------



## valvehead

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MeanBruce*
> 
> Has anyone linked an AquaComputer Aqubus USB D5 to an Aquaero 6 via Aquabus?
> 
> Getting ready to right now, hoping for additional functionality and the pump controls will select under Aquaero in the software instead of MPS, not sure about that last part.


I do.

Just set the Aquabus address and priority on the System tab for the pump. The pump must be connected to USB in order to access it directly via Aqausuite. Then just hit the save button (the floppy disk symbol).



It's been a while since I applied that setting, but I think I had to shutdown the computer completely (including the PSU) in order for the AQ6 to recognize the pump.

AFAIK, the only thing missing from using the Aquabus connection is the ability to monitor the actual pump speed in RPM. My pump is still connected via USB, so I can still see the pump RPM on my Overview Page in Aquasuite.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MeanBruce*
> 
> Has anyone linked an AquaComputer Aquabus USB D5 to an Aquaero 6 via Aquabus?
> 
> Getting ready to right now, hoping for additional functionality and the pump controls will select under Aquaero in the software instead of MPS, not sure about that last part.
> 
> http://s1177.photobucket.com/user/MeanBruce/media/IMG_8716_zpsfe97b914.jpg.html
> 
> There's no reason to maintain Aquabus and USB connections for the AquaComputer D5 is there?


No additional capability linking the pump via aquabus x usb. In fact you loose the capability of reading rpm (true rpm not %) from the USB. No problem maintaining both connections USB and aquabus if you want. Hope it helps.


----------



## MeanBruce

Thanks +rep, the Aquaero recognized the D5 leaving both USB and Aquabus connections intact. I did notice with the D5 connected only to the motherboard the minimal adjustable power is 25% or 3volts.

Connecting to the Aquaero 6 opens up the 0% to 25% range.

I can't find D5 rpms anywhere, trying to create a pump thermal profile and an information page, time to open the manual.









I love this AquaComputer D5 pump so much, it's so quiet, its inaudible, a tweaker's dream pump.









Thanks Shoggy


----------



## Mega Man

now you just need to watercool that GPU


----------



## Ironsmack

Ok, so finally got my AQ5 and PA5 working and set up.

My current setup are:

AQ5:

(7) AP15's top rad - fan 1
(8) AP15's bottom rad - fan 2
(2) Gelid HD cage - fan 3

PA5 ultra

(3) AP29's (front and back exhaust)

Now, when I set up Aquaero suite, both set of AP15's get their data from CPU and GPU temp by Open Hardware monitor respectively.

Currently, (7 AP15's) monitors CPU temp and (8 AP15's) monitors GPU temp.

Can I set them up as each set of AP15's monitor both the GPU and CPU temp, but not seperately?


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MeanBruce*
> 
> Thanks +rep, the Aquaero recognized the D5 leaving both USB and Aquabus connections intact. I did notice with the D5 connected only to the motherboard the minimal adjustable power is 25% or 3volts.
> 
> Connecting to the Aquaero 6 opens up the 0% to 25% range.
> 
> I can't find D5 rpms anywhere, trying to create a pump thermal profile and an information page, time to open the manual.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I love this AquaComputer D5 pump so much, it's so quiet, its inaudible, a tweaker's dream pump.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks Shoggy


the rpm can be seen under the alarm configuration of the usb (mps) connection. Glad it helped


----------



## MeanBruce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> now you just need to watercool that GPU


Hehe yea, unfortunately no one makes a water block for this GTX760, knew that going in, even EK's universal block won't fit, but that's ok it's a placeholder until Maxwell launches, barely above $200 with an Asus rebate and full version of Watch Dogs thrown in, pretty good deal played Bioshock this morning runs at 57C 2560x1440 with GeForce Experience software game optimization.

Its a good little card, but could use a backplate, oh well next time.









Back to reading the A6 manual. Love this Aquaero more and more.


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MeanBruce*
> 
> Thanks +rep, the Aquaero recognized the D5 leaving both USB and Aquabus connections intact. I did notice with the D5 connected only to the motherboard the minimal adjustable power is 25% or 3volts.
> 
> Connecting to the Aquaero 6 opens up the 0% to 25% range.
> 
> I can't find D5 rpms anywhere, trying to create a pump thermal profile and an information page, time to open the manual.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I love this AquaComputer D5 pump so much, it's so quiet, its inaudible, a tweaker's dream pump.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks Shoggy


That isn't really what is happening there. The minimum speed the pump will run at is 25% / 1800RPM, the same as any other D5 vario and its not voltage related at all. The pump can't be stopped, only adjusted from min to max speed.

Connecting via aquabus just allows the Aquaero to actively vary the speed. Because of the way that Aquasuite controllers work it might look like you can set a 0% pump speed but its really just 0% of that same 1800 - 4800RPM speed range.
To have actual pump RPM's displayed on an overview page the USB must remain connected. Via aquabus it is only a pump speed percentage, and only based on what the pump is being told to run at, not actually measured. The pump can be stopped but still show as running on the pumps tab.


----------



## WiLd FyeR

Any instructions on how to install the face plate?


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ironsmack*
> 
> Ok, so finally got my AQ5 and PA5 working and set up.
> 
> My current setup are:
> 
> AQ5:
> 
> (7) AP15's top rad - fan 1
> (8) AP15's bottom rad - fan 2
> (2) Gelid HD cage - fan 3
> 
> PA5 ultra
> 
> (3) AP29's (front and back exhaust)
> 
> Now, when I set up Aquaero suite, both set of AP15's get their data from CPU and GPU temp by Open Hardware monitor respectively.
> 
> Currently, (7 AP15's) monitors CPU temp and (8 AP15's) monitors GPU temp.
> 
> Can I set them up as each set of AP15's monitor both the GPU and CPU temp, but not seperately?


yes you have to use a virtual temp sensor ( check the sensor tabs ) and either hwinfo/hwmonitor (software sensors )

you can have it go off of min/ max / average /ect


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiLd FyeR*
> 
> Any instructions on how to install the face plate?


go slowly and take the original faceplate gently with a razor or small knife. Take your time don't force it. There a little bit of glue on the faceplate but it will come off easily.


----------



## WiLd FyeR

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> go slowly and take the original faceplate gently with a razor or small knife. Take your time don't force it. There a little bit of glue on the faceplate but it will come off easily.


Thanks for the tip, figured out why the torque screw wasn't going in when I was trying to add the face plate. The screen was off a few MM's because the glue wasn't doing the job holding the screen on in place. So when I tried to screw in the face plate, the screen was in the way and the torque screw wasn't long enough to grab the thread.

I just had to peel off the screen and put it back in place lol..


----------



## PuffinMyLye

Where can I get the Aquaero 6 in black? I don't see it anywhere or are people just modding them themselves?

*EDIT:* Nvmd, found the faceplate







.


----------



## VSG

Unfortunately it comes standard with a silver faceplate. You will need to buy the black one separately.


----------



## PuffinMyLye

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Unfortunately it comes standard with a silver faceplate. You will need to buy the black one separately.


Thanks I just noticed that. Is it worth getting one if I'm only controlling non-PWM (GT AP-15's) fans?


----------



## Mega Man

personal pref. imo yes


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PuffinMyLye*
> 
> Thanks I just noticed that. Is it worth getting one if I'm only controlling non-PWM (GT AP-15's) fans?


If that's all, then possibly no. But once you start watercooling, this thing becomes so useful!


----------



## PuffinMyLye

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> If that's all, then possibly no. But once you start watercooling, this thing becomes so useful!


Well I've got two water temperature sensors in my loop and a D5.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PuffinMyLye*
> 
> Well I've got two water temperature sensors in my loop and a D5.


You can set up custom curve controller based on your water temp sensors for the fans to ramp up or down. Depending on your d5 model you can control it too through the aquaero. So, yes I think is worth. If you don't need the lcd and the capability of reading and controlling stuff with the system down then the Aquaero LT is half the price (but only give you one channel with the possibility of pwm).

Just mine 2 cents.

cheers


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *PuffinMyLye*
> 
> Well I've got two water temperature sensors in my loop and a D5.
> 
> 
> 
> You can set up custom curve controller based on your water temp sensors for the fans to ramp up or down. Depending on your d5 model you can control it too through the aquaero. So, yes I think is worth. If you don't need the lcd and the capability of reading and controlling stuff with the system down then the Aquaero LT is half the price (but only give you one channel with the possibility of pwm).
> 
> Just mine 2 cents.
> 
> cheers
Click to expand...

esp for voltage controled, if you get a aq 5 anything you need a water block


----------



## PuffinMyLye

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> You can set up custom curve controller based on your water temp sensors for the fans to ramp up or down. Depending on your d5 model you can control it too through the aquaero. So, yes I think is worth. If you don't need the lcd and the capability of reading and controlling stuff with the system down then the Aquaero LT is half the price (but only give you one channel with the possibility of pwm).
> 
> Just mine 2 cents.
> 
> cheers


Unfortunately my D5 is the manual vario speed version. With the LT I'd only be able to control everything through software within Windows correct? I'd like to be able to control things from the controller itself.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> esp for voltage controled, if you get a aq 5 anything you need a water block


I'm not quite sure what you were getting at here.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PuffinMyLye*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> You can set up custom curve controller based on your water temp sensors for the fans to ramp up or down. Depending on your d5 model you can control it too through the aquaero. So, yes I think is worth. If you don't need the lcd and the capability of reading and controlling stuff with the system down then the Aquaero LT is half the price (but only give you one channel with the possibility of pwm).
> 
> Just mine 2 cents.
> 
> cheers
> 
> 
> 
> Unfortunately my D5 is the manual vario speed version. With the LT I'd only be able to control everything through software within Windows correct? I'd like to be able to control things from the controller itself.
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> esp for voltage controled, if you get a aq 5 anything you need a water block
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> I'm not quite sure what you were getting at here.
Click to expand...

if you buy a aq5 get the water block. not needed for AQ6

yes and no. you set it up in windows, however all aqs have their own cpu, and once they are set up they run... just run .


----------



## PuffinMyLye

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> esp for voltage controled, if you get a aq 5 anything you need a water block


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> if you buy a aq5 get the water block. not needed for AQ6
> 
> yes and no. you set it up in windows, however all aqs have their own cpu, and once they are set up they run... just run .


Ahhh I got you. I didn't realize they would get that hot. But why would anyone get the 5 when the 6 is the same price anyways?


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PuffinMyLye*
> 
> Ahhh I got you. I didn't realize they would get that hot. But why would anyone get the 5 when the 6 is the same price anyways?


Because the Lt model only exists in the 5 series and is half the price of the Aquaero 6. But if you want the lcd by all means go for the Aquaero 6 xt.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *PuffinMyLye*
> 
> Ahhh I got you. I didn't realize they would get that hot. But why would anyone get the 5 when the 6 is the same price anyways?
> 
> 
> 
> Because the Lt model only exists in the 5 series and is half the price of the Aquaero 6. But if you want the lcd by all means go for the Aquaero 6 xt.
Click to expand...

/pro


----------



## PuffinMyLye

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Because the Lt model only exists in the 5 series and is half the price of the Aquaero 6. But if you want the lcd by all means go for the Aquaero 6 xt.


Thanks. I think if I were to decide against the AQ 6 XT then I'd just keep my current Scythe Ultra Kaze Master Pro. It's actually quite pleasing to the eye (IMO) with it's simplicity. So for me it's just about whether or not I'm actually going to use the features that make the AQ 6 worth it or not. I may just use my current controller to finish my build initially and see if it leaves me wanting more.


----------



## Gabrielzm

yeah, go with whatever model appeal more to you aesthetically. The difference in price between the xt or pro is down to nothing....One have touchscreen buttons the other have more traditional buttons.

Edit - true about the controller. You can always swap latter. I started my build with the Lamptron cw611 and latter changed for the Aquaero 6 which allows other features not available in most controllers like pwm, integrated flow and level meters (if you are using Aquacomputer sensors) and other interesting software capabilities.


----------



## aaroc

What is the advantage of using PWM fans instead of voltage controlled fans apart from not generating heat on the fan controller when running slow?The fan controller needs fewer/less complex parts?
I read about PWM and found (please correct me if im wrong) that there are two types, one that send the pulse on the 4th pin and other that turns the fan on and off very fast to reduce speed. the later is bad for the fan and produces a tickling noise.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *aaroc*
> 
> What is the advantage of using PWM fans instead of voltage controlled fans apart from not generating heat on the fan controller when running slow?The fan controller needs fewer/less complex parts?
> I read about PWM and found (please correct me if im wrong) that there are two types, one that send the pulse on the 4th pin and other that turns the fan on and off very fast to reduce speed. the later is bad for the fan and produces a tickling noise.


with fans and or pumps they only use the 4th wire, but it is still a pulse,

only the cheap fan controllers use the second method you are talking about. same signal just too lazy to send it via the 4th wire


----------



## Shoggy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Daggi*
> 
> Hi
> I have a small question about my Aquaero 6 Pro. When I set the upper display limit to 10.0 liters / minute, so it appears only 0.1 liters / minute in the display. But when I put the upper display limit of 600.0 it will appear as 10.0 liters / minute. Is there a bug in my Aquaero or is it Aquasuite causing the problem? I use Aquasuite version 2014 to 2.3. to set all settings. It has no importance to my part, but I'm curious of what it might be. I do not have this problem on my Aquaero 5 Pro


The setting in the aquasuite software is always per hour so when you set it to 10 it means 10 l/h which is 0,167 l/min - a value that the aquaero can not work with so it gets rounded to the next smaller value. 600 l/h is 10 l/min so everything is OK if you look at it this way.

Hard to believe that your aquaero 5 would behave different when configured the same way. Both series use the same firmware.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *aaroc*
> 
> I read about PWM and found (please correct me if im wrong) that there are two types, one that send the pulse on the 4th pin and other that turns the fan on and off very fast to reduce speed. the later is bad for the fan and produces a tickling noise.


The second PWM thing hat nothing to do with the other one. PWM stands for pulse width modulation. It is a signal that is turned on and off in a rapid way. A 4-pin fan just uses this kind of signal to adjust the speed. The width of this signal tells the electronic inside the fan how fast it should spin.

The other method is not used as a speed controlling signal but provides the power for the fan itself. While a 4-pin PWM fan gets 12V permanently and the PWM signal only adjusts the speed, a PWM signal that provides the 12V power will turn on and off the fan in a rapid way. Just imagine a non-motorized carousel where you constantly have to push off yourself to hold a specific speed. Several fans do not like this way of power supply and might come up with an annoying humming noise.


----------



## WiLd FyeR

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> go slowly and take the original faceplate gently with a razor or small knife. Take your time don't force it. There a little bit of glue on the faceplate but it will come off easily.


Really, is that the real way to install a face plate?


----------



## Shoggy

Yes, the faceplate is glued to the touch controller so some force is necessary to remove it.


----------



## Nornam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> The guides are really good Norman and I have been recommending to those starting with the Aquaero (like me) around here. Thks a lot for the time and effort


Cheers Gabrielzm







.. Appreciate you passing the guides on e.t.c & to all of you that do









N.


----------



## IT Diva

@Nornam,

If you have links to the guides, I can add them to the first post for everyone's convenience.

D.


----------



## Nornam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> @Nornam,
> 
> If you have links to the guides, I can add them to the first post for everyone's convenience.
> 
> D.


You already have them there Darlene thanks







: There the first two you have up under the names of Nams on Specialtech forum & the Serif one is me also







...

Norman...(Alias Nornam & Namron







)...


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiLd FyeR*
> 
> Really, is that the real way to install a face plate?


Was giving you the instructions I got from Shoggy mate when I got my Aquaero a couple of months ago...


----------



## The Colonel

Hi Shoggy,

I'm in the middle of the biggest build I've never do, this:

http://www.overclock.net/t/1496783/project-900d-xtreme-power

As you can see in the presentation immage and in the description I have in my plans to use the aquero 6 xt.

But when I say big build I mean really big build, that mean a total of 62 fans, 4 pumps, 4 temperature sensor and 2 flow sensor, that i want to connect to aquero

In this configuration according to my calculations, I will need 2 Aquero 6 xt.

Is that correct?

How many 140mm fans I can group in one channel of Aquaero?


----------



## Blackspots

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> Yes, the faceplate is glued to the touch controller so some force is necessary to remove it.


Wouldn't it have been simpler to just have it screwed onto the frame of the controller (I thought that's how it was done)?


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *The Colonel*
> 
> Hi Shoggy,
> 
> I'm in the middle of the biggest build I've never do, this:
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1496783/project-900d-xtreme-power
> 
> As you can see in the presentation immage and in the description I have in my plans to use the aquero 6 xt.
> 
> But when I say big build I mean really big build, that mean a total of 62 fans, 4 pumps, 4 temperature sensor and 2 flow sensor, that i want to connect to aquero
> 
> In this configuration according to my calculations, I will need 2 Aquero 6 xt.
> 
> Is that correct?
> 
> How many 140mm fans I can group in one channel of Aquaero?


imo 2 aq 6xts are overkill.

other wise you may look into aq6pro or aq5lt and slave it ( with the waterblock ! )

really it depends how how they are controlled ( IE PWM vs voltage ) but being the fact that can do 20 fans per channel if 4 channel is enough then you could easily do it from one, depending if you had pumps ect, and depending on amp pull of the fans !


----------



## reklaw75

Hi guys,

Am the proud owner of a shiny new AQ6 XT (with optional black faceplate







) Thanks to Shoggy for answering
my queries in this thread.

Now i have this awesome piece of hardware, was wondering how you guys generally performed fan control for
your loops? At the moment I just have 2 x software sensors setup (CPU, GPU) read in from AIDA64 and have a
curve controller for the fans on GPU loop (custom WC loop with SP120 PWM fans) and CPU loop (well H100i
really... with SP120 PWM fans)

Ive seen a lot of talk on inlet and outlet temps, water temps and ambient air temps etc and am a bit
confused. How / what should i be measuring (happy to look at extra hardware such as flow sensors / water
temp sensors etc, and to use air temp sensors that came with AQ 6) and that would help me to best control
the temp of my GPU's and CPU's via the fan control of the AQ6 (i.e. with good noise / performance mix).

Any thoughts / ideas / solutions much appreciated.

Bruce


----------



## valvehead

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *reklaw75*
> 
> Hi guys,
> 
> Am the proud owner of a shiny new AQ6 XT (with optional black faceplate
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ) Thanks to Shoggy for answering
> my queries in this thread.
> 
> Now i have this awesome piece of hardware, was wondering how you guys generally performed fan control for
> your loops? At the moment I just have 2 x software sensors setup (CPU, GPU) read in from AIDA64 and have a
> curve controller for the fans on GPU loop (custom WC loop with SP120 PWM fans) and CPU loop (well H100i
> really... with SP120 PWM fans)
> 
> Ive seen a lot of talk on inlet and outlet temps, water temps and ambient air temps etc and am a bit
> confused. How / what should i be measuring (happy to look at extra hardware such as flow sensors / water
> temp sensors etc, and to use air temp sensors that came with AQ 6) and that would help me to best control
> the temp of my GPU's and CPU's via the fan control of the AQ6 (i.e. with good noise / performance mix).
> 
> Any thoughts / ideas / solutions much appreciated.
> 
> Bruce


Welcome to the club!









Personally I use water-to-air delta to control my fans. I set up a virtual temp sensor using the difference between water temp and intake air temp. My reasoning is that there is no point in cranking up the fans until there is actually significant heat in the water that needs to be removed. Another good reason to do it that way is that the water and ambient air temps are slow to change, so the fans slowly ramp up and down. I find fan noise far less annoying when it isn't constantly and rapidly changing.

Using more than one water temp sensor doesn't really benefit much. The water temp doesn't differ much between different points in the loop. Two water temps sensors (before and after the rad) together with a flow meter can be used to measure power dissipation, but it's not very accurate from what I hear.


----------



## WiLd FyeR

Is there a preset button on the remote to select for fan presets instead of going through the menu?


----------



## riesscar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *valvehead*
> 
> Welcome to the club!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Personally I use water-to-air delta to control my fans. I set up a virtual temp sensor using the difference between water temp and intake air temp. My reasoning is that there is no point in cranking up the fans until there is actually significant heat in the water that needs to be removed. Another good reason to do it that way is that the water and ambient air temps are slow to change, so the fans slowly ramp up and down. I find fan noise far less annoying when it isn't constantly and rapidly changing.
> 
> Using more than one water temp sensor doesn't really benefit much. The water temp doesn't differ much between different points in the loop. Two water temps sensors (before and after the rad) together with a flow meter can be used to measure power dissipation, but it's not very accurate from what I hear.


Man, that's a really good idea on the virtual temp sensor setup. I've been basing my fan control on water temp (which has worked well), but there are those situations when the air in the room is a little hotter than usual. I have often thought how pointless it is to blow the same temperature air at a faster rate... water-to-air delta, thanks for the tip







.

On the water temp issue, I have an inline temp sensor before my rad at the (theoretically) hottest point, as well as a plug fitting temp sensor on my res, and I can attest to the fact that there is never more than 0.5 C difference... well within the margin of error given that one is an inline sensor. On the power dissipation issue, I'll just bow out.

-Carson


----------



## reklaw75

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *valvehead*
> 
> Welcome to the club!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Personally I use water-to-air delta to control my fans. I set up a virtual temp sensor using the difference between water temp and intake air temp. My reasoning is that there is no point in cranking up the fans until there is actually significant heat in the water that needs to be removed. Another good reason to do it that way is that the water and ambient air temps are slow to change, so the fans slowly ramp up and down. I find fan noise far less annoying when it isn't constantly and rapidly changing.
> 
> Using more than one water temp sensor doesn't really benefit much. The water temp doesn't differ much between different points in the loop. Two water temps sensors (before and after the rad) together with a flow meter can be used to measure power dissipation, but it's not very accurate from what I hear.


Hi Valvehead, thanks for that, sounds a really good way to do things.

Couple of quick questions on how to set that up (from the hardware side).

What would you recommend (brand/part) to get for the water sensor? Where in the loop should it be placed (reading your mail it doesnt seem to matter right?)

The other question is around the air temp. Can i just use one of the included temp sensors from the aquero? If so where is a good place to position this (FYI 2 of my 3 rads are external to the case).

Ta for your help,

Bruce


----------



## reklaw75

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *riesscar*
> 
> Man, that's a really good idea on the virtual temp sensor setup. I've been basing my fan control on water temp (which has worked well), but there are those situations when the air in the room is a little hotter than usual. I have often thought how pointless it is to blow the same temperature air at a faster rate... water-to-air delta, thanks for the tip
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> 
> On the water temp issue, I have an inline temp sensor before my rad at the (theoretically) hottest point, as well as a plug fitting temp sensor on my res, and I can attest to the fact that there is never more than 0.5 C difference... well within the margin of error given that one is an inline sensor. On the power dissipation issue, I'll just bow out.
> 
> -Carson


Hi Carson,

Thanks for the info on the temp sensor placement as well, much appreciated. Any ideas on a good / reliable water temp sensor?

Ta,

Bruce


----------



## Rugburn

I have an Aquaero 5 Pro.. Will post a pic tomorrow.


----------



## riesscar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *reklaw75*
> 
> Hi Carson,
> 
> Thanks for the info on the temp sensor placement as well, much appreciated. Any ideas on a good / reliable water temp sensor?
> 
> Ta,
> 
> Bruce


I use a Monsoon fitting sensor and an Aquacomputer inline sensor. I find the inline sensor to be more accurate (in that it gives readings up to the tenths ... ie 25.4 C). Inline temp sensors may add restriction, although I haven't noticed any. A link to the sensor is here:

http://www.aquatuning.us/water-cooling/monitoring/thermo-sensor/6650/aquacomputer-temperature-sensor-inline-g1/4-for-aquaero-aquastream-xt-and-aquaduct

-Carson


----------



## The Colonel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> imo 2 aq 6xts are overkill.
> 
> other wise you may look into aq6pro or aq5lt and slave it ( with the waterblock ! )
> 
> really it depends how how they are controlled ( IE PWM vs voltage ) but being the fact that can do 20 fans per channel if 4 channel is enough then you could easily do it from one, depending if you had pumps ect, and depending on amp pull of the fans !


Hi Mega Man.

the idea is to connect to each AQ 2 pums, 2 T sensors, 2 Flow sensors and 31 fans ( the fans can be Enermax Apollish 140mm and rhe new Corsair PW 140mm LED).

I think to use a total of 4 pumps

what do you think about it







?


----------



## PuffinMyLye

Are there any specific accessories one recommends to go along with the AQ 6 XT? I've already got 2 water temperature sensors and 2 air temperature sensors. Flow rate sensors seem to be really expensive and probably unneeded but is there anything else I'm missing?


----------



## VSG

I got a flow meter so I could control the pump using flow rate instead of RPM, that's about it.


----------



## PuffinMyLye

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> I got a flow meter so I could control the pump using flow rate instead of RPM, that's about it.


You need a PWM pump for that right?


----------



## WiLd FyeR

When is this needed?


----------



## PuffinMyLye

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiLd FyeR*
> 
> When is this needed?


Hah I was just going to ask the same thing







.


----------



## VSG

Oops ya, I have that too. It's mostly for when the VRM/MOSFETs get hot either from low PWM signals or lots of voltage being supplied per channel. The waterblock takes it further but not really needed with the AQ6.

The flowmeter just gives flow, don't see why it is PWM pump only. Note that you need the accessory cable as well, it doesn't come with the meter for whatever reason.

I also have temperature sensors - in line and stop plug type - and also an RGB led for the heck of it. The black faceplate is another extra I got.


----------



## PuffinMyLye

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Oops ya, I have that too. It's mostly for when the VRM/MOSFETs get hot either from low PWM signals or lots of voltage being supplied per channel. The waterblock takes it further but not really needed with the AQ6.
> 
> The flowmeter just gives flow, don't see why it is PWM pump only. Note that you need the accessory cable as well, it doesn't come with the meter for whatever reason.
> 
> I also have temperature sensors - in line and stop plug type - and also an RGB led for the heck of it. The black faceplate is another extra I got.


Which flowmeter are you referring to? And if I have a D5 vario (manual speed dial) the AQ6 can control the pump's speed through voltage offset?


----------



## VSG

I have the high flow non USB variant for now, will need another one at least. If your D5 can run off a 3 pin cable then it should be fine. I don't know if the manual dial will interfere with it though so please wait for someone to confirm or deny.


----------



## ForNever

Just ordered one of these from frozencpu. I'm really looking forward to playing with it this weekend.

Anyone know if it will be possible to use this as a controller for a TEC chiller setup? I would like to set controller to raise/lower fan speeds on hot side's rad fans based on chilled water temps. Basically, I'd like to keep chilled loop at about 15C. Is there a way to program this sucker to adjust fan speeds automatically to hold a certain temperature?


----------



## PuffinMyLye

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> I have the high flow non USB variant for now, will need another one at least. If your D5 can run off a 3 pin cable then it should be fine. I don't know if the manual dial will interfere with it though so please wait for someone to confirm or deny.


My D5 is powered by a 2 pin molex power connector.


----------



## VSG

Then all the flowmeter will tell you is flow rate at each setting, nothing else. Not worth it unless you need to know it for some reason.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *The Colonel*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> imo 2 aq 6xts are overkill.
> 
> other wise you may look into aq6pro or aq5lt and slave it ( with the waterblock ! )
> 
> really it depends how how they are controlled ( IE PWM vs voltage ) but being the fact that can do 20 fans per channel if 4 channel is enough then you could easily do it from one, depending if you had pumps ect, and depending on amp pull of the fans !
> 
> 
> 
> Hi Mega Man.
> 
> the idea is to connect to each AQ 2 pums, 2 T sensors, 2 Flow sensors and 31 fans ( the fans can be Enermax Apollish 140mm and rhe new Corsair PW 140mm LED).
> 
> I think to use a total of 4 pumps
> 
> what do you think about it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ?
Click to expand...

Are you using the usb/aqua bus pumps ?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiLd FyeR*
> 
> When is this needed?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ForNever*
> 
> Just ordered one of these from frozencpu. I'm really looking forward to playing with it this weekend.
> 
> Anyone know if it will be possible to use this as a controller for a TEC chiller setup? I would like to set controller to raise/lower fan speeds on hot side's rad fans based on chilled water temps. Basically, I'd like to keep chilled loop at about 15C. Is there a way to program this sucker to adjust fan speeds automatically to hold a certain temperature?


Yes you could. ( you would make your own fan curve. As to actually controlling tecs is it possible yes. Again assuming you make a fan curve for it ( and control them via voltage. )
Is it recommended probably not (controlling tec chiller not the fans)


----------



## riesscar

Hello,

I have Aquasuite 2014 installed on my PC running Windows 8.1 Pro. One of the features that I like about this revision is that it allows for the software to start automatically with Windows, which it was doing until just recently. When I was browsing the options within the software, I noticed a warning saying that Aquasuite was not being run with administrative privileges. I therefore closed the program, went to the .exe file in the installation folder and changed it to 'run this program as an administrator' under the compatibility settings tab within the properties of the .exe file.

Since I performed the above mentioned steps, the software no longer starts with Windows. Instead, I am back to having to manually launch the software. There are no other issues, just the inability to start with the OS. I did check the startup programs, and Aquasuite is not listed. The checkbox within the software indicating that Aquasuite should start with windows is checked, so I have no idea why it has suddenly stopped launching.

Any help is greatly appreciated,

Carson


----------



## Ironsmack

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *riesscar*
> 
> Hello,
> 
> I have Aquasuite 2014 installed on my PC running Windows 8.1 Pro. One of the features that I like about this revision is that it allows for the software to start automatically with Windows, which it was doing until just recently. When I was browsing the options within the software, I noticed a warning saying that Aquasuite was not being run with administrative privileges. I therefore closed the program, went to the .exe file in the installation folder and changed it to 'run this program as an administrator' under the compatibility settings tab within the properties of the .exe file.
> 
> Since I performed the above mentioned steps, the software no longer starts with Windows. Instead, I am back to having to manually launch the software. There are no other issues, just the inability to start with the OS. I did check the startup programs, and Aquasuite is not listed. The checkbox within the software indicating that Aquasuite should start with windows _is_ checked, so I have no idea why it has suddenly stopped launching.
> 
> Any help is greatly appreciated,
> 
> Carson


Well, what happens when you undo what you did?


----------



## riesscar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ironsmack*
> 
> Well, what happens when you undo what you did?


Still doesn't startup. I'm just going to do a fresh install. No big deal.

Carson


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *WiLd FyeR*
> 
> When is this needed?
Click to expand...

woops was on mobile. i ment to say. it really isnt .... but i like it for looks, now that they have the black one out ...... i would go that route... when i bought them they only had red


----------



## PuffinMyLye

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> woops was on mobile. i ment to say. it really isnt .... but i like it for looks, now that they have the black one out ...... i would go that route... when i bought them they only had red


Only WCers buy components strictly for the looks that will never be seen. With that said, I bought it in black







.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PuffinMyLye*
> 
> Only WCers buy components strictly for the looks that will never be seen. With that said, I bought it in black
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


Which is why we take pics and post them to forums like this one so they _will_ be seen afterall. I'm also prone to opening the case up and showing friends/family stuff they never would have seen/known about otherwise.

newer friend: "Wow, that's a nice computer."
older friend: "Oh no, don't get him started."

.... 30 minutes later I still have the side panel opened up & I'm still talking / pointing.


----------



## Costas

You forgot one more comment:

Usually from the spouse: _"What a waste of money...."_


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Costas*
> 
> You forgot one more comment:
> 
> Usually from the spouse: _"What a waste of money...."_


Mine never says anything like that. She conveys that message perfectly well without using any words at all. Just a look.


----------



## PuffinMyLye

All I have to do is open my girl's closet and say "when was the last time you wore any of these shoes? I rest my case."


----------



## aaroc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> I have the high flow non USB variant for now, will need another one at least. If your D5 can run off a 3 pin cable then it should be fine. I don't know if the manual dial will interfere with it though so please wait for someone to confirm or deny.


Why a second flow meter?


----------



## fast_fate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Mine never says anything like that. She conveys that message perfectly well without using any words at all. Just a look.


One of the joys of being _happily divorced_









is NOT getting _those_ looks


----------



## riesscar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PuffinMyLye*
> 
> All I have to do is open my girl's closet and say "when was the last time you wore any of these shoes? I rest my case."


LOL ... too true!


----------



## Kipsofthemud

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PuffinMyLye*
> 
> All I have to do is open my girl's closet and say "when was the last time you wore any of these shoes? I rest my case."


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Mine never says anything like that. She conveys that message perfectly well without using any words at all. Just a look.


Ahahahaha so familiar:grouphug:


----------



## Kipsofthemud

Alright I'd like to be in the Club too







I got my Aqauero 6 XT in the mail yesterday and did a small unboxing because I didn't see any on youtube. Sorry for my accent, I'm Dutch









http://youtu.be/5xgAmlpEaiA?list=UUq7lmoadMoz3_xiyH39O8bg


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *aaroc*
> 
> Why a second flow meter?


For a second loop. I will have at least 3 loops in my ongoing build (linked in the sig below).


----------



## WiLd FyeR

Played with the AQ 6XT while reinstalling Win7, couldn't figure out how to control a single fan channel. I was able to set the presets for all channels.

How do I go about setting the fan speed for each channel? How do I know which Preset 1,2,3,4 you are currently on?


----------



## RDKing2

You need to add the device to the controller. You can add multiple devices to one controller or set up one for each device. Once added you can set the % on the controller. If you want you can add controllers to profiles for quick switching.


----------



## WiLd FyeR

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RDKing2*
> 
> You need to add the device to the controller. You can add multiple devices to one controller or set up one for each device. Once added you can set the % on the controller. If you want you can add controllers to profiles for quick switching.


Ok thanks







REP+ So the controller is in the menu I take it. Once I get home, I will look for the controller option.


----------



## MrStrat007

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *The Colonel*
> 
> Hi Mega Man.
> 
> the idea is to connect to each AQ 2 pums, 2 T sensors, 2 Flow sensors and 31 fans ( the fans can be Enermax Apollish 140mm and rhe new Corsair PW 140mm LED).
> 
> I think to use a total of 4 pumps
> 
> what do you think about it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ?


If you meant Corsair PWM fans, be warned that they are a Pain to use with a controller because they do not follow a standard pwm implementation. If the fans are voltage controlled and not PWM then you can disregard this.


----------



## The Colonel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrStrat007*
> 
> If you meant Corsair PWM fans, be warned that they are a Pain to use with a controller because they do not follow a standard pwm implementation. If the fans are voltage controlled and not PWM then you can disregard this.


Sorry,

I mean the Air Series SP140 LED High Static Pressure, that are presented in new led colour


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *The Colonel*
> 
> Sorry,
> 
> I mean the Air Series SP140 LED High Static Pressure, that are presented in new led colour


Not to rain on your parade but why those 140mm fans? While tech specs without proper testing and p-q curve on a rad don't tell much I am not very impressed with the specs in regard to noise. Is because of aesthetic reasons? You might consider Phanteks 140 mm fans (specially the new ones) that are great for rads.

just mine two cents

BTW I think one AQ6 can handle all that but depends on your pump model.


----------



## WiLd FyeR

Would like to download the software to help control AQ 6XT. At the site, what do I download?

http://aquacomputer.de/software.html


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiLd FyeR*
> 
> Would like to download the software to help control AQ 6XT. At the site, what do I download?
> 
> http://aquacomputer.de/software.html


the first one. Aquasuite.


----------



## MrStrat007

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *The Colonel*
> 
> Sorry,
> 
> I mean the Air Series SP140 LED High Static Pressure, that are presented in new led colour


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Not to rain on your parade but why those 140mm fans? While tech specs without proper testing and p-q curve on a rad don't tell much I am not very impressed with the specs in regard to noise. Is because of aesthetic reasons? You might consider Phanteks 140 mm fans (specially the new ones) that are great for rads.
> 
> just mine two cents
> 
> BTW I think one AQ6 can handle all that but depends on your pump model.


I've heard great things about the cougar 140mm fans too! One AQ6 should be enough, dependent on where your pump draws it's power from, as Gabrielzm pointed out


----------



## WiLd FyeR

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> the first one. Aquasuite.


Thanks REP+ So, have the program up and running and AIDA64 so it can read temps. For some reason Aquasuite can only get core #1 and core #3. Is it because I only have a trial version of AIDA64?

I made sure I checked off 1 through 4 on AIDA64


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiLd FyeR*
> 
> Thanks REP+ So, have the program up and running and AIDA64 so it can read temps. For some reason Aquasuite can only get core #1 and core #3. Is it because I only have a trial version of AIDA64?
> 
> I made sure I checked off 1 through 4 on AIDA64


mmm not sure don't use AIDA64 i use HWINFO64... Which BTW I highly recommend.


----------



## riesscar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiLd FyeR*
> 
> Thanks REP+ So, have the program up and running and AIDA64 so it can read temps. For some reason Aquasuite can only get core #1 and core #3. Is it because I only have a trial version of AIDA64?
> 
> I made sure I checked off 1 through 4 on AIDA64


You may have mentioned it in a prior post, but what cpu are you using? I ask because some processors don't give individual core temps (AMD APU's for example); rather, they report only the headroom between delta t and the current temp. Could be an issue with trial version, but I don't think it's likely... why those two cores only. Get back to me with your specs, as I am pretty familiar with AIDA64.

Carson


----------



## riesscar

@WiLd FyeR

I just checked your specs on your profile... duh. If your using the 3770K, then how are you attempting to get the core temps to display? Which option under preferences?

Carson


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrStrat007*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *The Colonel*
> 
> Hi Mega Man.
> 
> the idea is to connect to each AQ 2 pums, 2 T sensors, 2 Flow sensors and 31 fans ( the fans can be Enermax Apollish 140mm and rhe new Corsair PW 140mm LED).
> 
> I think to use a total of 4 pumps
> 
> what do you think about it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ?
> 
> 
> 
> If you meant Corsair PWM fans, be warned that they are a Pain to use with a controller because they do not follow a standard pwm implementation. If the fans are voltage controlled and not PWM then you can disregard this.
Click to expand...

only if splitting 5-6+
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *The Colonel*
> 
> Sorry,
> 
> I mean the Air Series SP140 LED High Static Pressure, that are presented in new led colour
> 
> 
> 
> Not to rain on your parade but why those 140mm fans? While tech specs without proper testing and p-q curve on a rad don't tell much I am not very impressed with the specs in regard to noise. Is because of aesthetic reasons? You might consider Phanteks 140 mm fans (specially the new ones) that are great for rads.
> 
> just mine two cents
> 
> BTW I think one AQ6 can handle all that but depends on your pump model.
Click to expand...

agreed 120 fan ftw !!!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *WiLd FyeR*
> 
> Thanks REP+ So, have the program up and running and AIDA64 so it can read temps. For some reason Aquasuite can only get core #1 and core #3. Is it because I only have a trial version of AIDA64?
> 
> I made sure I checked off 1 through 4 on AIDA64
> 
> 
> 
> mmm not sure don't use AIDA64 i use HWINFO64... Which BTW I highly recommend.
Click to expand...

agreed if not using paid version ( i have paid and still use hwinfos )


----------



## WiLd FyeR

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *riesscar*
> 
> @WiLd FyeR
> 
> I just checked your specs on your profile... duh. If your using the 3770K, then how are you attempting to get the core temps to display? Which option under preferences?
> 
> Carson


Here's a screenshot on where I went. Sorry,, the build is old, still need to update. I'm now on the 4970k


----------



## ForNever

I've been messing with this thing for a couple of hours. WOW. This has been hands down the best money I've spent on my rig. It's going to take some time to get used to not having to constantly fiddle with any knobs and check temps every 10 minutes or so while gaming. Incredible.


----------



## Mega Man

agreed, i bought one and been buying since.... have 6 now


----------



## riesscar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiLd FyeR*
> 
> Here's a screenshot on where I went. Sorry,, the build is old, still need to update. I'm now on the 4970k


Ok, so you are trying to get core temp readouts to Aquasuite, such that you may set a fan curve based in individual core temps? Or do you want to use the Aquasuite software to give a visual of several stats, core temps being among them? I was under the impression that you were just trying to get AIDA64 to report core temps... I'm not sure at the moment whether core temp data can be integrated into Aquasuite, although it probably can. First see if you can get AIDA64 to display each core temp within its own features natively... in other words, use the OSD or desktop gadget and make sure that AIDA can provide this data (it should be able to). Once you've verified this, we'll take a look at Aquasuite and see if this data is something that can be imported by it. You did say that Aquasuite can read core temps 1 & 3, right?

Carson

BTW: my system is down for maintenance right now, so I can't access my Aquasuite for a day or so.


----------



## WiLd FyeR

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *riesscar*
> 
> Ok, so you are trying to get core temp readouts to Aquasuite, such that you may set a fan curve based in individual core temps? Or do you want to use the Aquasuite software to give a visual of several stats, core temps being among them? I was under the impression that you were just trying to get AIDA64 to report core temps... I'm not sure at the moment whether core temp data can be integrated into Aquasuite, although it probably can. First see if you can get AIDA64 to display each core temp within its own features natively... in other words, use the OSD or desktop gadget and make sure that AIDA can provide this data (it should be able to). Once you've verified this, we'll take a look at Aquasuite and see if this data is something that can be imported by it. You did say that Aquasuite can read core temps 1 & 3, right?
> 
> Carson
> 
> BTW: my system is down for maintenance right now, so I can't access my Aquasuite for a day or so.


I'm still learning the AQ software so I can't really say on what I want to do. Just looking at the capabilities of AquaSuite software. I may try HWmonitor if that works.

REP+ for trying to help out.


----------



## Nornam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiLd FyeR*
> 
> I'm still learning the AQ software so I can't really say on what I want to do. Just looking at the capabilities of AquaSuite software. I may try HWmonitor if that works.
> 
> REP+ for trying to help out.


There is a guide I've done on post 1 that IT Diva posted that goes through how to set up the third party monitoring software for Aquasuite HERE

Not sure if that's what your after or not sorry but thought I'd mention it just in case you missed it & it may help... Also if using AIDA64 you need the paid version, or that's what you needed at time of me writing the guide & I'm not sure if that's changed or not.. probably not, so you'll need the paid version I suspect









Again sorry if I've got the wrong end of stick here









N.


----------



## WiLd FyeR

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nornam*
> 
> There is a guide I've done on post 1 that IT Diva posted that goes through how to set up the third party monitoring software for Aquasuite HERE
> 
> Not sure if that's what your after or not sorry but thought I'd mention it just in case you missed it & it may help... Also if using AIDA64 you need the paid version, or that's what you needed at time of me writing the guide & I'm not sure if that's changed or not.. probably not, so you'll need the paid version I suspect
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Again sorry if I've got the wrong end of stick here
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> N.


Thank you for the information REP+







, but yes, CPU temp is what I'm trying to get. I think having the CPU temp will be very helpful running a Curve Control and having the data on Aquasuite. I will check it out once I get home.

BTW: I know someone mentioned here that the AQ 6 stays on if connected to the USB because USB power always stays on. But I know that my other USB gadgets turn off.


----------



## Gabrielzm

It does stay on. It is normal. You can also use the water temp as you target temp for custom curves. You can also use the intake temp - water temp as your target temp to set up the controller on all 4 fan channels. Mine is like this based on water temp right now:


----------



## WiLd FyeR

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> It does stay on. It is normal. You can also use the water temp as you target temp for custom curves. You can also use the intake temp - water temp as your target temp to set up the controller on all 4 fan channels. Mine is like this based on water temp right now:


REP+







Nice.. I didn't get to that point yet on setting up the Aquaero. Thank you for the tip on using the water temp, should be more accurate and less erratic on the fan speed. What temp sensor is compatible with the Aquaero?


----------



## Newtocooling

Yes you can use up to 8 temp sensors and air or water are compatible, but your best to get one like this example or an in line flow works too, but mine leaked soI switched to the ones I linked. I have two of these on my alphacool UT 60's on the ends one going in and one going out the rad to diplay temp delta on the rad.

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/10373/ex-tub-620/Bitspower_G_14_Temperature_Sensor_Stop_Fitting_-_Matte_Black_BP-MBWP-CT.html?id=2psULcyz&mv_pc=6443


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiLd FyeR*
> 
> REP+
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Nice.. I didn't get to that point yet on setting up the Aquaero. Thank you for the tip on using the water temp, should be more accurate and less erratic on the fan speed. What temp sensor is compatible with the Aquaero?


Most temp probes (air and water) should work. The spec you should pay attention is that they are 10k ohm

http://shop.aquacomputer.de/product_info.php?products_id=2291

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/19451/koo-356/Koolance_Coolant_Inline_Temperature_Sensor_10K_Ohm_-_Black_SEN-TPL010K.html

or the one Newtocooling posted (that I used too).


----------



## WiLd FyeR

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Most temp probes (air and water) should work. The spec you should pay attention is that they are 10k ohm
> 
> http://shop.aquacomputer.de/product_info.php?products_id=2291
> 
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/19451/koo-356/Koolance_Coolant_Inline_Temperature_Sensor_10K_Ohm_-_Black_SEN-TPL010K.html
> 
> or the one Newtocooling posted (that I used too).


Thank you.. I'm going to check out Bitspowers temp sensor so it can match the aesthetics.


----------



## Newtocooling

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Most temp probes (air and water) should work. The spec you should pay attention is that they are 10k ohm
> 
> http://shop.aquacomputer.de/product_info.php?products_id=2291
> 
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/19451/koo-356/Koolance_Coolant_Inline_Temperature_Sensor_10K_Ohm_-_Black_SEN-TPL010K.html
> 
> or the one Newtocooling posted (that I used too).


I bought four of those Aquacomputer temp probes all 4 leaked the o-ring is terrible in them the groove for the o-ring to sit in is very shallow. Personally I would stick with either the Koolance or bits power ones but if you want to use the temp sensor pins on the Aquaero becareful of the two pin connector side as the eight inputs are very close together so you need a very thin profile two pin connector. Look at the ones on the Koolance are much thicker than either the Aquacomputer or bits power pins. My mistakes did cost me money so, try not to make the same ones I did.


----------



## aaroc

The AquaStream XT pump (post reservoir alone) and the High Flow USB MPS meter (pre reservoir right next to PSU) have Temp sensors usable in Aquasuite. I see a 1-1.5C difference between them, I think this is because the MPS meter is right on the side of the PSU. I have a Monsoon G1/4 plug temp sensor, but I didnt installed it this time. The temp sensors included in Aquaero look the same to the ones that I bought on Ebay as Asus motherboard Temp sensors to use on a CHFZ.


----------



## MeanBruce

Can the Aquaero 6 power a single 8.0 Amp fan on a designated channel?

Without water cooling the heatsink or overheating?


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MeanBruce*
> 
> Can the Aquaero 6 power a single 8.0 Amp fan on a designated channel?
> 
> Without water cooling the heatsink or overheating?


Nope. Maximum amp per channel is 2.5 A. Above 3 A the output will be disable. Check manual page 9. But are you sure the fan is 8 A?? Would not be 0.8 A?


----------



## MeanBruce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Nope. Maximum amp per channel is 2.5 A. Above 3 A the output will be disable. Check manual page 9. But are you sure the fan is 8 A?? Would not be 0.8 A?


I thought 8amps was high also for two 120mm fans in a long housing, but here's the white paper. (scratching head)

Am I reading something wrong? 8Amps can't be right that's 8000mA, wow.

https://db.sanyodenki.co.jp/product_db_e/coolingfan/dcfan/dc_fan_detail.php?master_id=2606

...


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MeanBruce*
> 
> I thought 8amps was high also for two 120mm fans in a long housing, but here's the white paper. (scratching head)
> 
> Am I reading something wrong? 8Amps is 800mA, wow.
> 
> https://db.sanyodenki.co.jp/product_db_e/coolingfan/dcfan/dc_fan_detail.php?master_id=2606


the model with 300 cfm is rated at 7.2 A. I have seen some deltas rated at 4 A but that one beat it. Do you want to build a bloody plane? 70 db









No, the aquaero will not handle one of those....Good for you I think







the aquaero is so good that is preventing you from this aggravation


----------



## MeanBruce

The Aquaero 6 can run one of the two fans at 1.1Amps. Don't plan on using it while working just a novelty when friends and family stop over, will look amazing mounted in the lower right bay within a CaseLabs S8, all I have to mount in that compartment is 2SSDs so this will look awesome. 6200 rpm, that might damage something on the motherboard, or suck the water tubing off the fittings.









I'll just run the slower fan off a separate A6 channel OR a Poweradjust module.

Sweet looking


----------



## MeanBruce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> the model with 300 cfm is rated at 7.2 A. I have seen some deltas rated at 4 A but that one beat it. Do you want to build a bloody plane? 70 db
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> No, the aquaero will not handle one of those....Good for you I think
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> the aquaero is so good that is preventing you from this aggravation


Think I'll go ahead and get one, for some reason thought it would cost $150 or more, found it at Mouser for $64. Simply sleeving and mounting it will look nice.

http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Sanyo-Denki/9CR1212P0G03/?qs=t9Lg9qrXjEzaIskuv0a4hg==

Hooking up two thermal probes right now to the Aquaero 6 water temp in and water temp out from two supplemental ports on the radiator, believing there must be an ideal pump rpm for greatest Radiator Delta T. For a radiator you want a high Delta T, right?

Plan is to tune the ideal pump rpm for maximum radiator Delta T, leaving that setting stable, then optimizing the three fans the same way to the ideal fan rpm for highest Delta T.

Should work just fine.


----------



## WiLd FyeR

Instead of getting a temp sensor, is it possible to get the temp reading from MSI Afterburner?


----------



## ozzy1925

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiLd FyeR*
> 
> Instead of getting a temp sensor, is it possible to get the temp reading from MSI Afterburner?


depends on what, you can cpu gpu with AB


----------



## WiLd FyeR

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ozzy1925*
> 
> depends on what, you can cpu gpu with AB


Oops.. I meant, can the AquaSuite get the GPU Temp from MSI AB?

One less wire if AquaSuite is able to do this. If not, will try HWINFO64 since AIDA64 trial version isn't playing nice with Aquasuite.


----------



## Newtocooling

My Aida 64 paid version gives me both my CPU and GPU temps. I bet HW monitor also has these temps available to Aquasuite, but I only use Aida at the moment. I base my fan curves off of these two temps as I have a dual loop in my system one for CPU and one for GPU. I also put a Darkside led strip on the splitter PCB that my GPU fans are going through so I get a visual as well when my GPU temps go up, fans kick in and led lights up. It's really a great device steep learning curve but once you get it down, it's really awesome!


----------



## Newtocooling

I don't think Afterburned will talk with Aquasuite, but I'm not totaly sure as I've never really tried.


----------



## WiLd FyeR

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Newtocooling*
> 
> My Aida 64 paid version gives me both my CPU and GPU temps. I bet HW monitor also has these temps available to Aquasuite, but I only use Aida at the moment. I base my fan curves off of these two temps as I have a dual loop in my system one for CPU and one for GPU. I also put a Darkside led strip on the splitter PCB that my GPU fans are going through so I get a visual as well when my GPU temps go up, fans kick in and led lights up. It's really a great device steep learning curve but once you get it down, it's really awesome!


REP+







Good idea on how to use the Aquasuite software and LED strip.

So how do I use the the curve control. Do I have to put the fans at 100% for it to work?


----------



## mantrius

As a soon to be new owner of an Aquaero 6xt, I have a question on what I would use the MPS 1000 pressure sensor for. All the other MPS pressure sensors have two inlets to measure differential pressure across two points, but the MPS 1000 only has one. In the documentation I've been able to find it seems the MPS 1000 measures the pressure differential between it's inlet and the ambient air pressure. What exactly is the point of this and of what use in a watercool into loop is this sensor?


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MeanBruce*
> 
> Think I'll go ahead and get one, for some reason thought it would cost $150 or more, found it at Mouser for $64. Simply sleeving and mounting it will look nice.
> 
> http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Sanyo-Denki/9CR1212P0G03/?qs=t9Lg9qrXjEzaIskuv0a4hg==
> 
> Hooking up two thermal probes right now to the Aquaero 6 water temp in and water temp out from two supplemental ports on the radiator, believing there must be an ideal pump rpm for greatest Radiator Delta T. For a radiator you want a high Delta T, right?
> 
> Plan is to tune the ideal pump rpm for maximum radiator Delta T, leaving that setting stable, then optimizing the three fans the same way to the ideal fan rpm for highest Delta T.
> 
> Should work just fine.


The maximum radiator delta will simply occur at the lowest flow rate.
But no, that isn't what you really want. The greatest effectiveness of rads occurs with the highest water flow rate. Its simple physics, If the water enters the rad 10C above ambient and exits at 5C above then the last half of the rad is only dissapating half the wattage of the first half. If the flow rate is high enough that the water doesn't have time to change temp significantly then it is dissipating maximum wattage. It might seem odd but you actually want the rad to be as hot as possible.

Radiator delta 's are really not that interesting because they are just a product of flow rate and fan speed. If flow rate and fan speed stay steady and system load changes they don't change significantly. That is in contrast to say an air / water delta.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mantrius*
> 
> As a soon to be new owner of an Aquaero 6xt, I have a question on what I would use the MPS 1000 pressure sensor for. All the other MPS pressure sensors have two inlets to measure differential pressure across two points, but the MPS 1000 only has one. In the documentation I've been able to find it seems the MPS 1000 measures the pressure differential between it's inlet and the ambient air pressure. What exactly is the point of this and of what use in a watercool into loop is this sensor?


there are 2 versions. one with 2 holes and one with one.

2 holes are used to measure pressure drop

http://shop.aquacomputer.de/product_info.php?language=en&products_id=3160 ( can be used in res )

1 hole is for measuring stuff like res level. your res needs a air vent to use this one
cant find link for one port @ aquacomputer

http://www.aquatuning.no/vannkjling/styringssentral/pressure-sensor/13771/aquacomputer-pressure-sensor-mps-pressure-1000


----------



## WiLd FyeR

Does Aquasuite need to be open for the fan curve settings to work?

And why isn't my Sensor 1 working, I have it setup on the GPU temp. I see the temp reading when I set it up.


----------



## Mega Man

sometimes you have to resync the sensor ( reselect it under software sensor )


----------



## ForNever

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiLd FyeR*
> 
> Does Aquasuite need to be open for the fan curve settings to work?
> 
> And why isn't my Sensor 1 working, I have it setup on the GPU temp. I see the temp reading when I set it up.


NO. That's what I was impressed with. Any settings are actually saved to the unit itself, not in the pc software! Sorry, not sure on the sens1 not working issue...


----------



## Mega Man

i forgot he is correct, you do need the aq service running but not the software


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiLd FyeR*
> 
> Does Aquasuite need to be open for the fan curve settings to work?
> 
> And why isn't my Sensor 1 working, I have it setup on the GPU temp. I see the temp reading when I set it up.


Sensor 1 is the first physical sensor. GPU temp is a software sensor.

If you want to change a sensor in an overview page right click on it and select 'change data source' ... then select the software sensor you have setup.

All this sort of stuff is in the Manual and Normans guides.


----------



## Mega Man

Also you can rename them


----------



## TATH

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MeanBruce*
> 
> I thought 8amps was high also for two 120mm fans in a long housing, but here's the white paper. (scratching head)
> 
> Am I reading something wrong? 8Amps can't be right that's 8000mA, wow.
> 
> https://db.sanyodenki.co.jp/product_db_e/coolingfan/dcfan/dc_fan_detail.php?master_id=2606
> 
> ...


6200 rpm and a noise factor of 51 to 70 dba. Wel i can asure you you dont want those fans. You nead ear plugs when you stand beside those fans.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MeanBruce*
> 
> Can the Aquaero 6 power a single 8.0 Amp fan on a designated channel?
> 
> Without water cooling the heatsink or overheating?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *MeanBruce*
> 
> Can the Aquaero 6 power a single 8.0 Amp fan on a designated channel?
> 
> Without water cooling the heatsink or overheating?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Nope. Maximum amp per channel is 2.5 A. Above 3 A the output will be disable. Check manual page 9. But are you sure the fan is 8 A?? Would not be 0.8 A?
Click to expand...

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MeanBruce*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Nope. Maximum amp per channel is 2.5 A. Above 3 A the output will be disable. Check manual page 9. But are you sure the fan is 8 A?? Would not be 0.8 A?
> 
> 
> 
> I thought 8amps was high also for two 120mm fans in a long housing, but here's the white paper. (scratching head)
> 
> Am I reading something wrong? 8Amps can't be right that's 8000mA, wow.
> 
> https://db.sanyodenki.co.jp/product_db_e/coolingfan/dcfan/dc_fan_detail.php?master_id=2606
> 
> ...
Click to expand...

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *MeanBruce*
> 
> I thought 8amps was high also for two 120mm fans in a long housing, but here's the white paper. (scratching head)
> 
> Am I reading something wrong? 8Amps is 800mA, wow.
> 
> https://db.sanyodenki.co.jp/product_db_e/coolingfan/dcfan/dc_fan_detail.php?master_id=2606
> 
> 
> 
> the model with 300 cfm is rated at 7.2 A. I have seen some deltas rated at 4 A but that one beat it. Do you want to build a bloody plane? 70 db
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> No, the aquaero will not handle one of those....Good for you I think
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> the aquaero is so good that is preventing you from this aggravation
Click to expand...

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MeanBruce*
> 
> The Aquaero 6 can run one of the two fans at 1.1Amps. Don't plan on using it while working just a novelty when friends and family stop over, will look amazing mounted in the lower right bay within a CaseLabs S8, all I have to mount in that compartment is 2SSDs so this will look awesome. 6200 rpm, that might damage something on the motherboard, or suck the water tubing off the fittings.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'll just run the slower fan off a separate A6 channel OR a Poweradjust module.
> 
> Sweet looking


That the A6 won't handle that kind of current is correct, but from a subsequent post it shows that that particular fan is PWM controlled, so as long as you power it from the PSU, you can easily control it and monitor the rpm with the A6.

You could split the PWM line and use just the push side tach signal, on a single channel, or use 2 channels, one for the push side and one for the pull side.

Darlene


----------



## Shoggy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiLd FyeR*
> 
> Instead of getting a temp sensor, is it possible to get the temp reading from MSI Afterburner?


No, the aquasuite only supports these three programs:

- HWiNFO (highly recommend!)
- Open Hardware Montior
- AIDA64 Extreme Edition

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiLd FyeR*
> 
> So how do I use the the curve control. Do I have to put the fans at 100% for it to work?


The LED works like a fan output. So for example you could setup a curve where with a rising temperature of an assigned sensor the LED will turn brighter. If you add a new controller with the plus icon you would select the curve controller, assign a temperature sensor on the left, assign one or more LEDs on the right and then do your settings in the middle. Of course tat also works with any other controller type.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mantrius*
> 
> As a soon to be new owner of an Aquaero 6xt, I have a question on what I would use the MPS 1000 pressure sensor for. All the other MPS pressure sensors have two inlets to measure differential pressure across two points, but the MPS 1000 only has one. In the documentation I've been able to find it seems the MPS 1000 measures the pressure differential between it's inlet and the ambient air pressure. What exactly is the point of this and of what use in a watercool into loop is this sensor?


The current version of the mps pressure 1000 has two threads. Anyway, do not buy this one. I do not understand why some people always buy that one for a regular loop. It seems that larger numbers automatically imply that it must be the better product -> NO!







This number describes the maximum pressure in mBar that the sensor can read. So if used as fill level sensor (what most customers do) the mps pressure 40 will be enough for most of them. It can be easily converted to a maximum fill level of 40 cm that this variant will be able to detect.

You could also use the mps pressure 1000 here but the resolution will be bad. Just an example. Let us say this sensor is able to differ between 100 steps. With the variant 40 it means that every step is 0.4 cm while with the 1000 variant it is 10 cm. So while the small sensor can tell the fill level in an accurate way the larger one needs incredible large changes before it recognizes that the fill level has gone up or down. As said it is only a fictitious example. The real resolution is much higher but the problems with the much larger steps stays exactly the same.

If you use it to measure the pressure drop it will depend which variant makes more sense. For example the maximum pressure that our aquastream XT is able to do is 420mbar so the mps pressure 500 would be already fine. If you only want to check the pressure drop of a specific block even much less would do the job.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiLd FyeR*
> 
> Does Aquasuite need to be open for the fan curve settings to work?


As mentioned before the aquaero does ALL the processing. The aquasuite is only a graphical user interface with some extras.


----------



## mantrius

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> The current version of the mps pressure 1000 has two threads. Anyway, do not buy this one. I do not understand why some people always buy that one for a regular loop. It seems that larger numbers automatically imply that it must be the better product -> NO!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This number describes the maximum pressure in mBar that the sensor can read. So if used as fill level sensor (what most customers do) the mps pressure 40 will be enough for most of them. It can be easily converted to a maximum fill level of 40 cm that this variant will be able to detect.
> 
> You could also use the mps pressure 1000 here but the resolution will be bad. Just an example. Let us say this sensor is able to differ between 100 steps. With the variant 40 it means that every step is 0.4 cm while with the 1000 variant it is 10 cm. So while the small sensor can tell the fill level in an accurate way the larger one needs incredible large changes before it recognizes that the fill level has gone up or down. As said it is only a fictitious example. The real resolution is much higher but the problems with the much larger steps stays exactly the same.
> 
> If you use it to measure the pressure drop it will depend which variant makes more sense. For example the maximum pressure that our aquastream XT is able to do is 420mbar so the mps pressure 500 would be already fine. If you only want to check the pressure drop of a specific block even much less would do the job.
> As mentioned before the aquaero does ALL the processing. The aquasuite is only a graphical user interface with some extras.


Thanks for the clarification Shoggy! I ended up going with an Aqualis XT reservoir with the integrated fill sensor instead of tacking a fill sensor onto my old res, but I was just curious as to the usage of the MPS 1000 when I was seeing it with only one thread.


----------



## WiLd FyeR

Thanks for the clarification Shoggy.









Now I just need to see why the GPU temp isn't showing on the display screen. GPU temp does show in Aquasuite but I'm not sure why the temp isn't showing in the Display on Sensor 1.

Also, any instructions on how to get HWINFO64 to provide information to Aquasuite?

FYI - AIDA64 Trail version only provides limited information to Aquasuite


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiLd FyeR*
> 
> Thanks for the clarification Shoggy.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I just need to see why the GPU temp isn't showing on the display screen. GPU temp does show in Aquasuite but I'm not sure why the temp isn't showing in the Display on Sensor 1.
> 
> Also, any instructions on how to get HWINFO64 to provide information to Aquasuite?
> 
> FYI - AIDA64 Trail version only provides limited information to Aquasuite


right click on the sensor 1 tab (you need to unlock it first) and then select the gpu temp. If it is reading from HWINFO or AIDA you need to have the software running too. If it is a physical sensor re-associate it to the sensor in the Aquaero.


----------



## WiLd FyeR

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> right click on the sensor 1 tab (you need to unlock it first) and then select the gpu temp. If it is reading from HWINFO or AIDA you need to have the software running too. If it is a physical sensor re-associate it to the sensor in the Aquaero.


Sorry the confusion, I meant was that the GPU temp shows in Aquasuite but not on the Aquaero Display screen.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiLd FyeR*
> 
> Sorry the confusion, I meant was that the GPU temp shows in Aquasuite but not on the Aquaero Display screen.


It is a physical sensor that you place it on the gpu? Or is it a software sensor like hwinfo or aida? If it is a software reading I am not sure you would be able to display on the Aquaero lcd...


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiLd FyeR*
> 
> Sorry the confusion, I meant was that the GPU temp shows in Aquasuite but not on the Aquaero Display screen.


Go to the 'information pages' tab and add software sensor 1 or whatever software sensor number you are using for GPU temp. Just drag and drop from the left side list of pages to the right side.

Again, Sensor 1 is a physical sensor.


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiLd FyeR*
> 
> Oops.. I meant, can the AquaSuite get the GPU Temp from MSI AB?
> 
> One less wire if AquaSuite is able to do this. If not, will try HWINFO64 since AIDA64 trial version isn't playing nice with Aquasuite.


Although it might seem like one less wire is advantageous, allowing the Aquaero to use the water temperature means two things: 1) no software services running needed, so Aquaero will keep cooling properly even if something crashes; 2) water temp tells you exactly how much extra heat is being produced by _both_ CPU and GPU. Therefore all fan controls can simply be based on 1 delta reading, rather than multiple settings dependent on arbitrary temperature curves for CPU and GPU.

For example, set fans how you like them. I chose here between 600rpm and 1400rpm



Make a virtual sensor that measures the difference between water temperature and ambient air temperature (= how much heat components are producing)



Tell Aquaero to keep water temperature no more than 10 degrees higher than ambient. Aquaero then does the calculations for fan speed, according to heat being produced.


----------



## WiLd FyeR

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> Although it might seem like one less wire is advantageous, allowing the Aquaero to use the water temperature means two things: 1) no software services running needed, so Aquaero will keep cooling properly even if something crashes; 2) water temp tells you exactly how much extra heat is being produced by _both_ CPU and GPU. Therefore all fan controls can simply be based on 1 delta reading, rather than multiple settings dependent on arbitrary temperature curves for CPU and GPU.
> 
> For example, set fans how you like them. I chose here between 600rpm and 1400rpm
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Make a virtual sensor that measures the difference between water temperature and ambient air temperature (= how much heat components are producing)
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tell Aquaero to keep water temperature no more than 10 degrees higher than ambient. Aquaero then does the calculations for fan speed, according to heat being produced.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> [/SPOILER]
> [URL=http://www.overclock.net/content/type/61/id/1690270/width/350/height/700]http://www.overclock.net/content/type/61/id/1690270/width/350/height/700[/URL][/QUOTE]
> 
> REP+ [IMG alt="thumb.gif"]https://www.overclock.net/images/smilies/thumb.gif Good point you made there using a software temp vs actual temp. Also great tip on how it can be used, the Aquaero is very versatile on how it can be used. Glad I made the decision to buy it, almost returned it LOL..


----------



## ForNever

Is it possible to stop the display from scrolling through stuff I don't care about? Maximum page time is 600 secs. I was really hoping I could set to a page on the display and make it stay there


----------



## WiLd FyeR

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ForNever*
> 
> Is it possible to stop the display from scrolling through stuff I don't care about? Maximum page time is 600 secs. I was really hoping I could set to a page on the display and make it stay there


You sure can in AquaSuite, just go to the information tab and click the X on the display you don't want to see.


----------



## Shoggy

In the same menu you can also check the box to show the page permanently. This way the aquaero will stop the automatic scrolling at this page until you press manually up or down on the device or the remote control. And when it comes back to this page it will stop again. This way you can still have some other pages in your setup that you want to keep but that you do not want to see all the time.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> That the A6 won't handle that kind of current is correct, but from a subsequent post it shows that that particular fan is PWM controlled, so as long as you power it from the PSU, you can easily control it and monitor the rpm with the A6.
> 
> You could split the PWM line and use just the push side tach signal, on a single channel, or use 2 channels, one for the push side and one for the pull side.
> 
> Darlene


Thks ITDiva I did not realize that particular fan was PWM and was assuming was voltage controlled.


----------



## ForNever

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiLd FyeR*
> 
> You sure can in AquaSuite, just go to the information tab and click the X on the display you don't want to see.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> In the same menu you can also check the box to show the page permanently. This way the aquaero will stop the automatic scrolling at this page until you press manually up or down on the device or the remote control. And when it comes back to this page it will stop again. This way you can still have some other pages in your setup that you want to keep but that you do not want to see all the time.


Thank you gentlemen!!!!


----------



## WiLd FyeR

Still can't get the software sensor to show up on the Aquaero display screen.


----------



## Mega Man




----------



## WiLd FyeR

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*


Sorry, didn't provide details. The information display shows but no Temp just a "- - -"

The temp shows in AquaSuite, just not on the Aquaero Display.


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiLd FyeR*
> 
> Sorry, didn't provide details. The information display shows but no Temp just a "- - -"
> 
> The temp shows in AquaSuite, just not on the Aquaero Display.


Double check that the Aquaero service is running.


----------



## Shoggy

The service is running for sure because otherwise he would not see any software sensor values.

The problem lays one page back where he was told to assign another sensor in the overview page. That does not create a "real" software sensor. It is just a sensor value and you can have hundreds of them in the overview page. To have a software sensor that can be processed by the aquaero it must be set up in the sensor tab -> software temperature sensor -> mode: sensor enabled -> check to use the sensor with the Aqua Computer service and select the data source.


----------



## Daggi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> The setting in the aquasuite software is always per hour so when you set it to 10 it means 10 l/h which is 0,167 l/min - a value that the aquaero can not work with so it gets rounded to the next smaller value. 600 l/h is 10 l/min so everything is OK if you look at it this way.
> 
> Hard to believe that your aquaero 5 would behave different when configured the same way. Both series use the same firmware.


You are absolutely right. Checked all my devices, and AQ 5 and AQ 6 are identical. Was just that I had set my AQ5 manually on the device








It's a bit confusing when you put all settings to l / m in the settings for the flow meter, aq user interface and aquasuite settings. Then you expect it is the same on the upper display limit on the Aquaero. If You understand what I mean. But anyways now i know how it works. It's all about learning something new


----------



## WiLd FyeR

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> The service is running for sure because otherwise he would not see any software sensor values.
> 
> The problem lays one page back where he was told to assign another sensor in the overview page. That does not create a "real" software sensor. It is just a sensor value and you can have hundreds of them in the overview page. To have a software sensor that can be processed by the aquaero it must be set up in the sensor tab -> software temperature sensor -> mode: sensor enabled -> check to use the sensor with the Aqua Computer service and select the data source.


That's what I did so I can have the fan curve set to the GPU temp. I can tell the Aquaero is reading the temp because it's reacting to the GPU temp. Just not showing up on the Aquaero Display screen.


----------



## Shoggy

Mhh, does not make much sense. Could you please have a look directly at the aquaero: main menu -> sensors -> temperature sensors -> software sensor 1 (or whatever it is named) -> offset. Is the correct temperature visible on tehr right side of this screen? Here is an example how it should look:


----------



## WiLd FyeR

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> Mhh, does not make much sense. Could you please have a look directly at the aquaero: main menu -> sensors -> temperature sensors -> software sensor 1 (or whatever it is named) -> offset. Is the correct temperature visible on tehr right side of this screen? Here is an example how it should look:


I'm stumped myself, been trying to get the temp sensor to show a reading since Friday lol.. Fan RPM and power show on the display screen fortuneately. Will check it out once I do my time in the office.

Just to mention, I've tried HWINFO64 and still the same issue.


----------



## Nichismo

sup guys, loving my XT


----------



## mbreslin

Since the D5 pwm versions aren't controllable via pwm on the aq6 can it undervolt one (or two) of the plain jane d5s or will cause too much heat?

It would be 18 fans, a flow meter, a water temp sensor and 2 D5s, room for this on an aq6 xt/pro?

Thanks.


----------



## WiLd FyeR

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> Mhh, does not make much sense. Could you please have a look directly at the aquaero: main menu -> sensors -> temperature sensors -> software sensor 1 (or whatever it is named) -> offset. Is the correct temperature visible on tehr right side of this screen? Here is an example how it should look:


Okay, up and running on the display screen. Sorry you guys were right, selected the wrong information display lol.. REP+ Mega Man


----------



## Kimir

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nichismo*
> 
> sup guys, loving my XT


Neat!








Mind sharing that logo? I want to use it!


----------



## RDKing2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mbreslin*
> 
> Since the D5 pwm versions aren't controllable via pwm on the aq6 can it undervolt one (or two) of the plain jane d5s or will cause too much heat?
> 
> It would be 18 fans, a flow meter, a water temp sensor and 2 D5s, room for this on an aq6 xt/pro?
> 
> Thanks.


If you want to control D5 pumps just use the Aquacomputer D5's and hook up via aquabus

These http://www.frozencpu.com/products/17488/ex-pmp-211/Aquacomputer_D5_Pump_Motor_w_USB_and_Aquabus_Interface_41093.html?tl=g30c107s1802


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mbreslin*
> 
> Since the D5 pwm versions aren't controllable via pwm on the aq6 can it undervolt one (or two) of the plain jane d5s or will cause too much heat?
> 
> It would be 18 fans, a flow meter, a water temp sensor and 2 D5s, room for this on an aq6 xt/pro?
> 
> Thanks.


how are pwm pumps not controllable with it? you can easily control pwm pumps
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiLd FyeR*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> Mhh, does not make much sense. Could you please have a look directly at the aquaero: main menu -> sensors -> temperature sensors -> software sensor 1 (or whatever it is named) -> offset. Is the correct temperature visible on tehr right side of this screen? Here is an example how it should look:
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Okay, up and running on the display screen. Sorry you guys were right, selected the wrong information display lol.. REP+ Mega Man
Click to expand...

glad you got it sorted out !


----------



## mbreslin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> how are pwm pumps not controllable with it? you can easily control pwm pumps


According to the information in the first post there is some issue with pwm D5s and the aq6.


----------



## Mega Man

huh, i didnt know that, good thing i use MCP35xs, may be switching to the new MCP350x


----------



## mbreslin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> huh, i didnt know that, good thing i use MCP35xs, may be switching to the new MCP350x


I planned to use two 50Xs but I'm not sure if I have the patience to wait for a 50x2 top. (aesthetics are important to me







)


----------



## Mega Man

agreed i will be very sad if swiftech does not put out a x2 top, but i will be ecstatic if they put out a x4 top !


----------



## WiLd FyeR

Any way for the Aquero to not start the fans at full blast when computer is turned on?


----------



## Mega Man

several depends on many things, but yea start boost may be set to 100%


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiLd FyeR*
> 
> Any way for the Aquero to not start the fans at full blast when computer is turned on?


I showed in my last picture to you








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> several depends on many things, but yea start boost may be set to 100%


Indeed


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mbreslin*
> 
> Since the D5 pwm versions aren't controllable via pwm on the aq6 can it undervolt one (or two) of the plain jane d5s or will cause too much heat?
> 
> It would be 18 fans, a flow meter, a water temp sensor and 2 D5s, room for this on an aq6 xt/pro?
> 
> Thanks.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RDKing2*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *mbreslin*
> 
> Since the D5 pwm versions aren't controllable via pwm on the aq6 can it undervolt one (or two) of the plain jane d5s or will cause too much heat?
> 
> It would be 18 fans, a flow meter, a water temp sensor and 2 D5s, room for this on an aq6 xt/pro?
> 
> Thanks.
> 
> 
> 
> If you want to control D5 pumps just use the Aquacomputer D5's and hook up via aquabus
> 
> These http://www.frozencpu.com/products/17488/ex-pmp-211/Aquacomputer_D5_Pump_Motor_w_USB_and_Aquabus_Interface_41093.html?tl=g30c107s1802
Click to expand...

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mbreslin*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> how are pwm pumps not controllable with it? you can easily control pwm pumps
> 
> 
> 
> According to the information in the first post there is some issue with pwm D5s and the aq6.
Click to expand...

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> huh, i didnt know that, good thing i use MCP35xs, may be switching to the new MCP350x


Guys, . . . . .

While the A6 doesn't control the PWM version of the D5 natively . . . . .

A perfectly workable mod is so simple that you should not be dismissing the PWM D5.

PWM control allows for operation all the way down to the 800 rpm range, with full controllability throughout the lower range, around 900 to 2000 rpm, that you can't even get with voltage control.

For a single pump the mod looks like this on the connector to the A6:



If you want to run a dual D5 setup, then do the mod on a short extension, and plug your dual PWM splitter into the extension.



Darlene


----------



## WiLd FyeR

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> several depends on many things, but yea start boost may be set to 100%


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> I showed in my last picture to you
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Indeed
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Thank you REP+









Will be receiving this today, any instructions on how to install?


----------



## mbreslin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Guys, . . . . .
> 
> While the A6 doesn't control the PWM version of the D5 natively . . . . .
> 
> A perfectly workable mod is so simple that you should not be dismissing the PWM D5.
> 
> PWM control allows for operation all the way down to the 800 rpm range, with full controllability throughout the lower range, around 900 to 2000 rpm, that you can't even get with voltage control.
> 
> For a single pump the mod looks like this on the connector to the A6:
> 
> 
> 
> If you want to run a dual D5 setup, then do the mod on a short extension, and plug your dual PWM splitter into the extension.
> 
> 
> 
> Darlene


+rep Do you have a diagram for this or link to one? I was really hoping there might be some mod. I would like wait for a good black dual top for the mcp50x but I don't know how long that might take.

Thanks.


----------



## mbreslin

Any chance those 3 red LEDs on the XT can be turned off?

Thanks.


----------



## Shoggy

You can adjust pretty much everything of these LEDs in the user interface tab.


----------



## mbreslin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> You can adjust pretty much everything of these LEDs in the user interface tab.


Great thanks! Ordered!


----------



## Wolfsbora

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiLd FyeR*
> 
> [/SPOILER]
> 
> Thank you REP+
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Will be receiving this today, any instructions on how to install?


Quite simple actually. Remove the sticker off the back of your Aquaero, unscrew the brackets, follow the instructions on installing the thermal pads, install the heat sink and then use the longer screws to reattach the brackets. All done!


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiLd FyeR*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> several depends on many things, but yea start boost may be set to 100%
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> I showed in my last picture to you
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Indeed
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Thank you REP+
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Will be receiving this today, any instructions on how to install?
Click to expand...

unscrew. .. rescrew
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wolfsbora*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *WiLd FyeR*
> 
> [/SPOILER]
> 
> Thank you REP+
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Will be receiving this today, any instructions on how to install?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quite simple actually. Remove the sticker off the back of your Aquaero, unscrew the brackets, follow the instructions on installing the thermal pads, install the heat sink and then use the longer screws to reattach the brackets. All done!
Click to expand...

I did not even remove the sticker.

Iirc make sure you install the correct thermal pads. There are 2 sizes.

That is my only complaint. I am site they did it for a reason. But I wish they would of just used one size


----------



## Wolfsbora

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> Iirc make sure you install the correct thermal pads. There are 2 sizes.
> 
> That is my only complaint. I am site they did it for a reason. But I wish they would of just used one size


I made the mistake of using only the one size. I didn't even notice a difference. Is the difference in the thickness? If so, what thickness are they?


----------



## Mega Man

I did too.

I won't be able to check till I get home


----------



## Wolfsbora

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> I did too.
> 
> I won't be able to check till I get home


No worries. I haven't installed my Aquaero yet. If the thickness is around .5 for either sizes then I may use my Fujipoly to replace them. Go all out on it.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mbreslin*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Guys, . . . . .
> 
> While the A6 doesn't control the PWM version of the D5 natively . . . . .
> 
> A perfectly workable mod is so simple that you should not be dismissing the PWM D5.
> 
> PWM control allows for operation all the way down to the 800 rpm range, with full controllability throughout the lower range, around 900 to 2000 rpm, that you can't even get with voltage control.
> 
> For a single pump the mod looks like this on the connector to the A6:
> 
> 
> 
> If you want to run a dual D5 setup, then do the mod on a short extension, and plug your dual PWM splitter into the extension.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Darlene
> 
> 
> 
> +rep Do you have a diagram for this or link to one? I was really hoping there might be some mod. I would like wait for a good black dual top for the mcp50x but I don't know how long that might take.
> 
> Thanks.
Click to expand...

Here's a link to the earlier post where a good bit of relevant info starts:

Read thru the next several pages and you'll be up to speed.

All the parts cost only a couple bucks from RadioShack.

http://www.overclock.net/t/1474470/ocn-aquaero-owners-club/50#post_21956203

Darlene


----------



## pathfindercod

Hey everyone - I am nearing the completion of my build. Well probably 70-75% done. But I am starting to work on wiring and fans to my 6xt. So I made the mistake and bought these pwm sp120 fans. I hurt can't sink $300-400 more into fans right now. I have bought some modmytoys 8 way pwm splitters and have the swiftech pwm splitter also. I like the swiftech as it will use port from the psu and not the aquaero but I think from readying I Judy's won't be able to control 8 fans on one header?..?.. Not sure about the modmytoys solution yet. So my next question is if I'm ass out on pwm control then I could get a 8-way splitter (3-pin) and use them as DC control? If so how many fans would be safe to run per header? Or should I eat romen noodles and ride my bicycle to work for a month to buy different fans? As always thank you all for the help!


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pathfindercod*
> 
> Hey everyone - I am nearing the completion of my build. Well probably 70-75% done. But I am starting to work on wiring and fans to my 6xt. So I made the mistake and bought these pwm sp120 fans. I hurt can't sink $300-400 more into fans right now. I have bought some modmytoys 8 way pwm splitters and have the swiftech pwm splitter also. I like the swiftech as it will use port from the psu and not the aquaero but I think from readying I Judy's won't be able to control 8 fans on one header?..?.. Not sure about the modmytoys solution yet. So my next question is if I'm ass out on pwm control then I could get a 8-way splitter (3-pin) and use them as DC control? If so how many fans would be safe to run per header? Or should I eat romen noodles and ride my bicycle to work for a month to buy different fans? As always thank you all for the help!


Use the Swiftech splitters, and see how many of the fans you can actually control decently to the minimum speed you want to be able to control them to.

If it's a newer A6, with the 47 ohm resistors instead of the 100 ohm ones, .you should be able to handle at least 8, or 1 full splitter, per channel.

Test first, then work out a plan B if you find the need for it.

Darlene


----------



## pathfindercod

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Use the Swiftech splitters, and see how many of the fans you can actually control decently to the minimum speed you want to be able to control them to.
> 
> If it's a newer A6, with the 47 ohm resistors instead of the 100 ohm ones, .you should be able to handle at least 8, or 1 full splitter, per channel.
> 
> Test first, then work out a plan B if you find the need for it.
> 
> Darlene


Thank you, Darlene. I believe it's a new one. I forgot to look at the pcb before putting the thermal pads and heatsink on. I haven't mounted it in the case yet. I might pull it off at check. I got it 2 weeks ago in the latest shipment refresh performance-pcs got in (U.S.) so I hope it is a newer model. I'll just plug it all up externally with a psu and start testing to see how many. I did decide to drop from my original 24 fans to 13 fans all together.


----------



## mbreslin

I'm in the same boat pathfinder, I ordered an aq6xt, 12 sp120 pwm, and the 8 way swiftech splitter today. Please come back and mention how many you can control with aq6, I will do the same.


----------



## WiLd FyeR

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wolfsbora*
> 
> I made the mistake of using only the one size. I didn't even notice a difference. Is the difference in the thickness? If so, what thickness are they?


Just installed it. Really...?????????? Wow.. the instructions didn't even mention the thickness of the 2 thermal pads.


----------



## Wolfsbora

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiLd FyeR*
> 
> Just installed it. Really...?????????? Wow.. the instructions didn't even mention the thickness of the 2 thermal pads.


I didn't notice either. Other than that, everything worked out?


----------



## VSG

Guys just be aware of random gore spammers on the loose. There was some in this thread just 5 minutes ago.


----------



## Wolfsbora

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Guys just be aware of random gore spammers on the loose. There was some in this thread just 5 minutes ago.


Yeah, hit a different thread I was on too. Pretty nasty. First time I had to report a post.


----------



## VSG

If you see a PM with no preview message in the inbox, don't open it. Click on the user and see if he is new and spamming in many threads. It started in the evening with other guys and not yet stopped I guess.


----------



## Mega Man

update, i said it wrong ! the HS is one size the WB is not !


----------



## Wolfsbora

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> If you see a PM with no preview message in the inbox, don't open it. Click on the user and see if he is new and spamming in many threads. It started in the evening with other guys and not yet stopped I guess.


Spammers always ruin the fun.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> update, i said it wrong ! the HS is one size the WB is not !


Did you notice a big difference adding a WB? +1 for looking into the thermal pads.


----------



## Mega Man

not really the 6 really does not need it


----------



## WiLd FyeR

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wolfsbora*
> 
> I didn't notice either. Other than that, everything worked out?


Yes, it was a straight forward install for the heatsink. Easier than the face plate.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> not really the 6 really does not need it


ohh okay, that's a good thing then.


----------



## Nichismo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kimir*
> 
> Neat!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Mind sharing that logo? I want to use it!


no problem











its already in the proper 256x64 res


----------



## Shoggy

The aquaero *6* block uses only 0.5mm pads while the aquaero *5* block uses 0.5 and 1.0mm pads.


----------



## riesscar

Hey guys,

I am having some trouble getting my custom LCD screen to show up in my information pages. I have created a monochrome .png within photoshop, and I used the text tool just to enter the name of my build. I saved it with the correct dimensions, but when I attempt to upload it nothing happens. When this failed, I attempted to edit the "User LCD" info page from within the aquasuite program files --> screens folder. I just blacked out the white text (probably an image actually) and then used the text tool from within microsoft paint to enter the build name... I did this by choosing white as my primary color, given that the backdrop is black. I then saved (which I could do because I closed aquasuite before editing the file. When I opened up Aquasuite, I saw my screen in the 'information pages' section, and it looked exactly as I intended; however, after adding it and looking at the LCD of my AQ6, only a blank screen shows up instead.

Can someone explain to me in laymen's terms how to go about creating a custom info screen for the LCD? I just want it to contain the name of my build -- preferably in a font of my choosing, but I'll settle for any at this point.

Thanks for any info on this,

Carson


----------



## Kimir

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nichismo*
> 
> no problem
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> its already in the proper 256x64 res


Thanks, silly me, I didn't even think of taking the header to do so.


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *riesscar*
> 
> Hey guys,
> 
> I am having some trouble getting my custom LCD screen to show up in my information pages. I have created a monochrome .png within photoshop, and I used the text tool just to enter the name of my build. I saved it with the correct dimensions, but when I attempt to upload it nothing happens. When this failed, I attempted to edit the "User LCD" info page from within the aquasuite program files --> screens folder. I just blacked out the white text (probably an image actually) and then used the text tool from within microsoft paint to enter the build name... I did this by choosing white as my primary color, given that the backdrop is black. I then saved (which I could do because I closed aquasuite before editing the file. When I opened up Aquasuite, I saw my screen in the 'information pages' section, and it looked exactly as I intended; however, after adding it and looking at the LCD of my AQ6, only a blank screen shows up instead.
> 
> Can someone explain to me in laymen's terms how to go about creating a custom info screen for the LCD? I just want it to contain the name of my build -- preferably in a font of my choosing, but I'll settle for any at this point.
> 
> Thanks for any info on this,
> 
> Carson


Black text on white background produces the opposite on the Aquaero.

PNG created in paint


Screenshot


The pages inside the Aquasuite install files are the wrong size though. You need 256 x 64


----------



## Shoggy

When the file is saved it is important to limit the color palette to only two colors: black (#000000) and white (#FFFFFF).


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *riesscar*
> 
> Hey guys,
> 
> I am having some trouble getting my custom LCD screen to show up in my information pages. I have created a monochrome .png within photoshop, and I used the text tool just to enter the name of my build. I saved it with the correct dimensions, but when I attempt to upload it nothing happens. When this failed, I attempted to edit the "User LCD" info page from within the aquasuite program files --> screens folder. I just blacked out the white text (probably an image actually) and then used the text tool from within microsoft paint to enter the build name... I did this by choosing white as my primary color, given that the backdrop is black. I then saved (which I could do because I closed aquasuite before editing the file. When I opened up Aquasuite, I saw my screen in the 'information pages' section, and it looked exactly as I intended; however, after adding it and looking at the LCD of my AQ6, only a blank screen shows up instead.
> 
> Can someone explain to me in laymen's terms how to go about creating a custom info screen for the LCD? I just want it to contain the name of my build -- preferably in a font of my choosing, but I'll settle for any at this point.
> 
> Thanks for any info on this,
> 
> Carson


i have used color pngs i have to admit it converts the files with ease ! ( but they were just black and white ! )


----------



## ForNever

WOW. I had no idea you could stick custom images for it to display. This thing is just incredible, can't wait to try this out tonight!


----------



## skupples

last time I looked into using a custom design it was a major pain in the ass which required teaching yourself some form of programming. Has that changed by any chance? It would be nice if it emulator/ converter existed that could convert a standard PNG or other image file into your new image for the display.

it seems I may have been misinformed when I originally researched a custom image for the screenif people are simply using Photoshop to convert to black and white uploading it somewhere


----------



## Shoggy

What?! That never required any kind of programming. You only had to import an image from the beginning. The only thing that is important it must be a PNG file with a resolution of 256 x 64 pixel and the color palette must be limited to black and white and this is also important when you save the file. Just using only black and white but saving it with the full color palette will not work.


----------



## riesscar

@Jakusonfire,

Thanks so much for the info. I'll try switching the colors when I get off work.

@Shoggy

Thanks for the response. I believe that photoshop automatically chooses these two tones when a monochrome image, but I'll check the color codes. After I select a .png to upload, will it be automatically added to the 'miscellaneous' info screen list?

@Mega Man

Thanks for the response. I assume that color pngs is software, so I'll look that up.

Thanks again guys,

Carson


----------



## ozzy1925

we11w2
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> The aquaero *6* block uses only 0.5mm pads while the aquaero *5* block uses 0.5 and 1.0mm pads.


i didnt notice there are 2 different size pads andi dont remember now what size pad i used with my 6xt .What should i do?remove the heatsink and measure the thickness?


----------



## Shoggy

The heatsink for the aquaero 6 does not even come with a 1.0mm pad so why should you check that?


----------



## ozzy1925

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> The heatsink for the aquaero 6 does not even come with a 1.0mm pad so why should you check that?


ah, i tought that heatsink fits both 5 and 6 ,going back to bed


----------



## WiLd FyeR

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ozzy1925*
> 
> we11w2
> i didnt notice there are 2 different size pads andi dont remember now what size pad i used with my 6xt .What should i do?remove the heatsink and measure the thickness?


Your okay if you say you have the 6XT. Shoggy said only the 5 have different size thermal pads.


----------



## Nilsom

Hello everyone

I have aquaero 6, but I can not make it work on windows,
I connected the USB cable, but not shown to work,
I'm finding this very complicated controller
can someone give me a hand.

thank you all


----------



## Ironsmack

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nilsom*
> 
> Hello everyone
> 
> I have aquaero 6, but I can not make it work on windows,
> I connected the USB cable, but not shown to work,
> I'm finding this very complicated controller
> can someone give me a hand.
> 
> thank you all


Did you install the aquasuite?

Make sure the USB cable is orientated properly from the USB header to the unit itself.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Will these work?


----------



## Wolfsbora

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> The aquaero *6* block uses only 0.5mm pads while the aquaero *5* block uses 0.5 and 1.0mm pads.


Thanks, Shoggy! Apparently Fujipoly's Ultra Extreme pads work really well. I have .5 for my EK blocks. I'm curious if it would make a difference. I'd test it but I don't feel like disconnecting it later to install the Fujipoly since it hasn't been installed yet.


----------



## Nilsom

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ironsmack*
> 
> Did you install the aquasuite?
> 
> Make sure the USB cable is orientated properly from the USB header to the unit itself.


yes this friend,
I move n AquaSuite, makes a beep, but I do not see anything working on AquaSuite,
honestly is very complicated for me aquaero


----------



## pathfindercod

I put 8 corsair pwm sp120 fans on one swiftech 8 way controller and 5 one a second. Put one on fan1 and the other on fan 2 of the 6xt. I set them to pwm control and was able to slow all the fans down and speed them up. Only weird thing is they slow down to barley turning all the way to 1%. When I hit 0% the shoot back up to full speed. I guess that's fine because I don't think if ever want them to stop completely.

Just for my curiosity is this the issue of corsair fans or am I missing another setting somewhere in the aquaero?

This controller is sick BTW, simply amazing what you can do with it..


----------



## Costas

Question for those that utilise 'profiles' within the Aquaero unit...

I note that the unit always seems to select profile #1 whenever booting the unit from cold [ie a full power off condition].

Is there any way to select one of the other profiles as the default profile when cold booting...?


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ForNever*
> 
> WOW. I had no idea you could stick custom images for it to display. This thing is just incredible, can't wait to try this out tonight!


just one at a time
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> last time I looked into using a custom design it was a major pain in the ass which required teaching yourself some form of programming. Has that changed by any chance? It would be nice if it emulator/ converter existed that could convert a standard PNG or other image file into your new image for the display.
> 
> it seems I may have been misinformed when I originally researched a custom image for the screenif people are simply using Photoshop to convert to black and white uploading it somewhere


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> What?! That never required any kind of programming. You only had to import an image from the beginning. The only thing that is important it must be a PNG file with a resolution of 256 x 64 pixel and the color palette must be limited to black and white and this is also important when you save the file. Just using only black and white but saving it with the full color palette will not work.


this but the mega man in mine was color, the aq converted it without issue ( aquasuite or w.e. )
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nilsom*
> 
> Hello everyone
> 
> I have aquaero 6, but I can not make it work on windows,
> I connected the USB cable, but not shown to work,
> I'm finding this very complicated controller
> can someone give me a hand.
> 
> thank you all


it is complicated, but once you learn it it is very easy
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pathfindercod*
> 
> I put 8 corsair pwm sp120 fans on one swiftech 8 way controller and 5 one a second. Put one on fan1 and the other on fan 2 of the 6xt. I set them to pwm control and was able to slow all the fans down and speed them up. Only weird thing is they slow down to barley turning all the way to 1%. When I hit 0% the shoot back up to full speed. I guess that's fine because I don't think if ever want them to stop completely.
> 
> Just for my curiosity is this the issue of corsair fans or am I missing another setting somewhere in the aquaero?
> 
> This controller is sick BTW, simply amazing what you can do with it..


my pumps do that too at times i just limit it to 1% not 0
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Costas*
> 
> Question for those that utilise 'profiles' within the Aquaero unit...
> 
> I note that the unit always seems to select profile #1 whenever booting the unit from cold [ie a full power off condition].
> 
> Is there any way to select one of the other profiles as the default profile when cold booting...?


umm, idr off the top of my head but pretty sure you can


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> What?! That never required any kind of programming. You only had to import an image from the beginning. The only thing that is important it must be a PNG file with a resolution of 256 x 64 pixel and the color palette must be limited to black and white and this is also important when you save the file. Just using only black and white but saving it with the full color palette will not work.


sigh... I even have the thread bookmarked on my main PC.... Now i'm going to have to find it & post it.. next time i'm at home. Someone provided it in the original thread on the 6XT, the news thread I believe.

thx for clarification.


----------



## Jakusonfire

I assume you are thinking of the jaLCD's software that allows the use of the Aquaero screen for other information in custom screen designs. Not just the adding of a static logo.


----------



## Mega Man

yea, gl with that ..


----------



## Shoggy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nilsom*
> 
> I move n AquaSuite, *makes a beep*, but I do not see anything working on AquaSuite


Which aquaero version is that? If it only peeps one time and does not show anything on its display it means that only the boot loader has been programmed to its CPU but the the firmware is missing. Unfortunately that can not be fixed by yourself and the device must be exchanged.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wolfsbora*
> 
> Thanks, Shoggy! Apparently Fujipoly's Ultra Extreme pads work really well. I have .5 for my EK blocks. I'm curious if it would make a difference. I'd test it but I don't feel like disconnecting it later to install the Fujipoly since it hasn't been installed yet.


If you own an aquaero 6 it would be a waste of time since the passive block in general is pretty unnecessary here.


----------



## SScrogg

Hey guys, I'm looking at purchasing an Aquaero 6 Pro and was wondering if there is any way to change the color of the LCD Display to another color other than Blue w/White. Thanks


----------



## Wolfsbora

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SScrogg*
> 
> Hey guys, I'm looking at purchasing an Aquaero 6 Pro and was wondering if there is any way to change the color of the LCD Display to another color other than Blue w/White. Thanks


If I'm not mistaken, you can buy film like overlays that give it the appearance of having a different color. I'll try to find them in a bit.


----------



## SScrogg

Thanks so much....only thing I could find was an awesome mod by mnpctech (Bill)....http://themodzoo.com/forum/index.php?/topic/243-mnpctech-project-rebel-alliance/page-14


----------



## WiLd FyeR

Need help setting up AquaSuite, want to start PC without having the fans at full power. The set the "start boost" at 0% and still the fans are at full power when PC is turned on.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiLd FyeR*
> 
> Need help setting up AquaSuite, want to start PC without having the fans at full power. The set the "start boost" at 0% and still the fans are at full power when PC is turned on.


don't put at 0%. Set to 50% for example and should be fine and silent. Btw why use start boost? It is used if you set your fans too low and have dozens of it in each channel so when the computer starts fans might not spin and overcome inertia so start boost was designed for that from my understanding.


----------



## WiLd FyeR

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> don't put at 0%. Set to 50% for example and should be fine and silent. Btw why use start boost? It is used if you set your fans too low and have dozens of it in each channel so when the computer starts fans might not spin and overcome inertia so start boost was designed for that from my understanding.


Okay, I uncheck start boost and set it to 50%, fans are still are at full power when PC is turned on. Is it because I have it set up on the controller for a curve and it's over riding it?


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiLd FyeR*
> 
> Okay, I uncheck start boost and set it to 50%, fans are still are at full power when PC is turned on. Is it because I have it set up on the controller for a curve and it's over riding it?


Just tested here. My is set to start boost 50% and cold boot it does goes to 100% fan, restart it stays nice and silent...


----------



## WiSK

What kind of fans are they? Maybe they are PWM fans? Then you need to select PWM. Or some non-PWM fans need a certain amount of volts to start. Try 7V with duration 2 seconds. Always check start boost IMO, no big reason not to.


----------



## WiLd FyeR

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Just tested here. My is set to start boost 50% and cold boot it does goes to 100% fan, restart it stays nice and silent...


Restart is fine here, it stays at the controller settings. Just cold start is still full power.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> What kind of fans are they? Maybe they are PWM fans? Then you need to select PWM. Or some non-PWM fans need a certain amount of volts to start. Try 7V with duration 2 seconds. Always check start boost IMO, no big reason not to.


They are PWM fans, will try that setting.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiLd FyeR*
> 
> Restart is fine here, it stays at the controller settings. Just cold start is still full power.
> They are PWM fans, will try that setting.


If they are PWM you should select the PWM controlled in that option you picture before. Mine are volt controlled so I have "power controlled" selected.


----------



## WiLd FyeR

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> If they are PWM you should select the PWM controlled in that option you picture before. Mine are volt controlled so I have "power controlled" selected.


Selected PWM, the fans are now quieter. Thanks REP+







Gabrielzm & WiSK. But still at full power at cold start even though i have it at 50%.


----------



## WiSK

How long are they fast? Like one or two seconds, or longer?


----------



## WiLd FyeR

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> How long are they fast? Like one or two seconds, or longer?


Fast for a good 10 seconds, will slow down once windows is up.


----------



## WiSK

And if you set start boost to 1 second, what happens then?


----------



## valvehead

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiLd FyeR*
> 
> Fast for a good 10 seconds, will slow down once windows is up.


Did you click the Save button (the floppy disk icon on the left) in Aquasuite? It will save the settings in Aquasuite to the Aquaero so that the settings will be loaded at bootup.


----------



## WiLd FyeR

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> And if you set start boost to 1 second, what happens then?


Great i think that worked. Rep+


----------



## Nilsom

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> Which aquaero version is that? If it only peeps one time and does not show anything on its display it means that only the boot loader has been programmed to its CPU but the the firmware is missing. Unfortunately that can not be fixed by yourself and the device must be exchanged.
> If you own an aquaero 6 it would be a waste of time since the passive block in general is pretty unnecessary here.


Thank you, friend

that is all appears here,
I do not know what else to do,
how can I update the firmware?

thank you


----------



## Shoggy

Your screenshot clearly shows that the device is not detected by the PC and you can not flash the firmware yourself if the device beeps only one time at startup. In this case your device is in a so called flash mode and awaits its first initial programming which can be only done in our company since it requires a special device. As said your aquaero must be exchanged.


----------



## Nilsom

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> Your screenshot clearly shows that the device is not detected by the PC and you can not flash the firmware yourself if the device beeps only one time at startup. In this case your device is in a so called flash mode and awaits its first initial programming which can be only done in our company since it requires a special device. As said your aquaero must be exchanged.


Have I done something wrong link?
Any guide on how to make the link and configurations,
ativarl have to something in order to recognize aquaero desktop
send to Germany, the value of the shipment would be high for me
because I live in Portugal

thank you


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nilsom*
> 
> Have I done something wrong link?
> Any guide on how to make the link and configurations,
> ativarl have to something in order to recognize aquaero desktop
> send to Germany, the value of the shipment would be high for me
> because I live in Portugal
> 
> thank you


Where did you buy the product? In Portugal or direct from Aquacomputer?


----------



## Gabrielzm

Nilsom, glad it solved your problem mate. Here are a link for the Namron (Norman) guides:

http://www.specialtechforums.co.uk/showthread.php?3393-NAMS-NEW-BASIC-GUIDE-to-the-AQUAERO-5

you can find other links at the start of the Thread under "Aquasuite Guides and Tutorials:"


----------



## Nilsom

thank you all

had the usb cable in aquaero reversed, and now everything's working beautifully,
I only have the fans connected to it, now I have to learn how to configure.

thanks again to all

yes friend, bought in Portugal, but I'm having a problem to send to germany!


----------



## Nilsom

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Nilsom, glad it solved your problem mate. Here are a link for the Namron (Norman) guides:
> 
> http://www.specialtechforums.co.uk/showthread.php?3393-NAMS-NEW-BASIC-GUIDE-to-the-AQUAERO-5
> 
> you can find other links at the start of the Thread under "Aquasuite Guides and Tutorials:"


thank you my friend!


----------



## Shoggy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nilsom*
> 
> had the usb cable in aquaero reversed


There is even a sticker on the device with a color code for the cable









Anyway, good to hear that it works now


----------



## fast_fate

Spoiler: Had some time with an MPS 400 on the test bench.!



The MPS 400 ID was set, and I was getting flow readings in Aquasuite and on the Aquaero with no problems.



I found that the Aquaero and Aquasuite were giving different readings for the same flow rate (as set with the tap and read on the King Flow Meter)
I don't know why - but guess that each had their own calibration conversion table that they create the flow rate with from the unscaled value acquired from the MPS sensor ??
I would have thought that Aquasuite was just relaying info from the Aquaero, but I could be wrong.
A table below shows that the Aquaero readings were closer to the readings from the King fm.

Here's my screen shot of Aquasuite MPS Flow settings before any calibration was attempt was done.



I set up a data log to record the flow rates from the beginning - but unfortunately I accidentally deleted the 800 + log points instead of just clearing the chart









Somewhere I had read that the scale on the calibration curve chart was incorrect and was to be addressed in a firmware update.
I didn't take long to work out what the bug is, and if there is a fix I couldn't find it.
That being the _scaled value_ on the chart is displayed on screen as US Gal/min
By some trial and error I found that is actually US Gal/hour.
It would be nice in the fix if we could choose our input unit for the scaled value, but a fix of any sort would be less confusing









To do the calibration I had the MPS Sensor configuration page open and noted the *current unscaled value* in the lower left corner.
The flow was adjusted with the valve on the res outlet in 0.2 gpm increments starting from 0.4 gpm up until the current unscaled value stopped rising.
NOTE - you should not use these setting for your own MPS 400 calibration - unless you are using Bitspower 1/2 x 3/4 fittings, and even then no guarantees








I have included the data table for information purposes as it does show us a few things...

the level of inaccuracy the stock calibration offers
the different readings that Aquaero and Aquasuite give at the same flow rate
and the cut off point the MPS 400 sensor provides unscaled values at, that being magic number 766.



After collecting the data point information I added my calibration points onto the calibration curve.

Before hitting the magic sauce button (calculate calibration data)



and with the magic sauce mixed in....



I did another run through the flow range after calibration and created the flow comparison table again...
Here we can see that the calibration values enter converted into a reasonably accurate flow reading by both the Aquaero and Aquasuite.
I say both, because they still are offering different readings when the calibration starts to fail at the upper end of the flow rate range the sensor is able to detect - max 2.0 gpm
Me thinks that somehow Aquaero and Aquasuite have their own recipe of magic sauce











Before starting my calibration I saved the stock MPS 400 Calibration file in the XML format offered by Aquasuite.
and on the right is the saved XML file after calibration.
The MPS 400 sensor's extended flow range can clearly seen by comparing the *raw values* of the two files.
I'm not even going to try and guess what has happened in the top half - scaled values, but I have no doubt the *magic sauce* mentioned earlier is at work









 












Is there something I am missing in regards to the following ??

Somewhere I had read that the scale on the calibration curve chart was incorrect and was to be addressed in a firmware update.
I didn't take long to work out what the bug is, and if there is a fix I couldn't find it.
That being the _scaled value_ on the chart is displayed on screen as US Gal/min
By some trial and error I found that is actually US Gal/hour.
It would be nice in the fix if we could choose our input unit for the scaled value, but a fix of any sort would be less confusing


----------



## fast_fate

Sorry for double post, but I have another unrelated query








When using the power slider in Aquasuite for the D5 USB pump....
how is the power reduction handled.
90 %, 80 % or whatever doesn't seem to to equate to a same percentage reduction in amps, or anything else power related.
I've posted the results I collected, but I would like to understand what it is the slider is adjusting if anybody could explain.
I would guess that adjusting the maximum power level on the Aquaero does the same thing ? but haven't checked that (yet)


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fast_fate*
> 
> Sorry for double post, but I have another unrelated query
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When using the power slider in Aquasuite for the D5 USB pump....
> how is the power reduction handled.
> 90 %, 80 % or whatever doesn't seem to to equate to a same percentage reduction in amps, or anything else power related.
> I've posted the results I collected, but I would like to understand what it is the slider is adjusting if anybody could explain.
> I would guess that adjusting the maximum power level on the Aquaero does the same thing ? but haven't checked that (yet)


The USB pump is just a normal D5 vario but the potentiometer has been replaced by a digital version so the power settings are just the same as turning the manual dial. So, same as a normal vario the dial doesn't relate to volts or power, just rpm's
I think that is what you mean at least?


----------



## fast_fate

argh ha - *rpm*








that is probably what I was missing.
I'm hooked up to a laptop and don't have Aquaero running.
Cheers


----------



## Jakusonfire

Rpm's are only available when the pump is connected via USB and only in aqua suite. I'm pretty sure the aquaero won't display actual speed because it isn't sent via aquabus.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fast_fate*
> 
> argh ha - *rpm*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> that is probably what I was missing.
> I'm hooked up to a laptop and don't have Aquaero running.
> Cheers


And to find the rpm you need to go to the alarm part of the configuration in Aquasuite when the d5 is connected via usb.


----------



## RDKing2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiLd FyeR*
> 
> Restart is fine here, it stays at the controller settings. Just cold start is still full power.
> They are PWM fans, will try that setting.


Does the Aquaero fully shut down? If so the fans will always ramp up till the AQ starts up. To prevent this make sure the USB port that the Aquaero is plugged into does not turn off at shut down. Usually a setting in the bios for the motherboard. I keep my usb ports "hot" all the time for charging my mouse, headset, phone etc. while the pc is off.


----------



## RDKing2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fast_fate*
> 
> Sorry for double post, but I have another unrelated query
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When using the power slider in Aquasuite for the D5 USB pump....
> how is the power reduction handled.
> 90 %, 80 % or whatever doesn't seem to to equate to a same percentage reduction in amps, or anything else power related.
> I've posted the results I collected, but I would like to understand what it is the slider is adjusting if anybody could explain.
> I would guess that adjusting the maximum power level on the Aquaero does the same thing ? but haven't checked that (yet)


Regardless of setting % of rpm or voltage the amperage will never be a direct linear relationship. While not a great example- say your car gets 20mpg at 60mph, will you get 40mpg at 30mph?


----------



## Buzz247

suggestions - multiswitch issues not being recognized in windows and therefore not in aquasuite. Have checked for jumper setting to allow USB control, have checked USB cable, windows states cannot install/not recognized/unknown device. Unplug USB and replug and states cannot find driver. Shouldn't that be handled by the aquaero 5? I am running 2014 v2.3.

I assume also that under Aquaero controllers is where I should find PA2 info right? Seem to have an rpm read issue, but can control thru the fan page by percentage ok. Which leads to the next ...

The aquastream xt pumps have internal temp sensors. the way I have my loop built I wanted to use those readings for pre block and post block temps, and correlate into a fan curve with post rad temp sensor. I can't seem to get those sensors to be utilized. Clicking on the tabs they do have readings (on the pumps and off the flow meter temps - flow is avg 218.6 L/h







) but when i go to build a curve, I only have fan amp and aquaero cpu temps available. How do I make those readings available? Everything is connected via USB not aquabus.


----------



## reklaw75

Hi guys,

I have the Koolance FM18 Stainless Steel flow meter and the ADT FM03 flow meter frequency adapter that can output flow rate in mL/min as RPM's on a 3 pin fan header.

Wanted to check the best way to hook this up to my Aquero 6 XT. I'm assuming this 3 pin fan plug should just be plugged into a FAN plug on the Aquero (e.g. FAN 4).

The part I'm worried about is the instructions that came with the Koolance flow meter and adapter specifically said something like: "Make sure you don't power the adapter from fan header". The fan cable that goes from the adapter to the Aquero would be a 3 pin and it has 2 pins wired up.

Is it safe to just plug in to FAN 4, or should i setup the Aquero to never send any power through FAN 4 (i.e. maximum power to 0%) first?

If anyone has any experience connecting these flow meters / adapters to the Aquero or advice around this would be much appreciated.

Thanks guys,

Bruce


----------



## Mega Man

you could just use the flow port, without that adapter,

however we would need to rewire it, makes it more trouble then it is worth

however that flow meter adapter is not wired for +12v so you should be fine.

with that said what i would do is just install it on my mobo on a fan header , and import it to aq using a software sensor
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Buzz247*
> 
> suggestions - multiswitch issues not being recognized in windows and therefore not in aquasuite. Have checked for jumper setting to allow USB control, have checked USB cable, windows states cannot install/not recognized/unknown device. Unplug USB and replug and states cannot find driver. Shouldn't that be handled by the aquaero 5? I am running 2014 v2.3.
> 
> I assume also that under Aquaero controllers is where I should find PA2 info right? Seem to have an rpm read issue, but can control thru the fan page by percentage ok. Which leads to the next ...
> 
> The aquastream xt pumps have internal temp sensors. the way I have my loop built I wanted to use those readings for pre block and post block temps, and correlate into a fan curve with post rad temp sensor. I can't seem to get those sensors to be utilized. Clicking on the tabs they do have readings (on the pumps and off the flow meter temps - flow is avg 218.6 L/h
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ) but when i go to build a curve, I only have fan amp and aquaero cpu temps available. How do I make those readings available? Everything is connected via USB not aquabus.


@Buzz247

you can not use the newer aquasuites with the multi switch, you will have to attach it to the aquabus and use it that way,

however there is no PWM output capability

otherwise you can use the old version of it, that is compatible. ( see the multiswitch instructions )


----------



## reklaw75

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> you could just use the flow port, without that adapter,
> 
> however we would need to rewire it, makes it more trouble then it is worth
> 
> however that flow meter adapter is not wired for +12v so you should be fine.
> 
> with that said what i would do is just install it on my mobo on a fan header , and import it to aq using a software sensor
> @Buzz247
> 
> you can not use the newer aquasuites with the multi switch, you will have to attach it to the aquabus and use it that way,
> 
> however there is no PWM output capability
> 
> otherwise you can use the old version of it, that is compatible. ( see the multiswitch instructions )


Hi Mega Man,

I actually have a spare FAN output that i don't use on the AQ6. Reason i wanted to use a header on the AQ6 was in the case flow stopped when the OS wasn't loaded (and therefore an imported software sensor wouldn't have any values as AIDA64 and AQservice wouldn't be running). If i set FAN 4 output to 0% power and used that to plug in the ADT FM03 3 pin cable into, would that work (i.e. not fry the ADT FM03 and read in the RPM)?

Thanks in advance,

Bruce


----------



## Mega Man

should

also again 12v is not wired on the connector that i can see


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *reklaw75*
> 
> Hi guys,
> 
> I have the Koolance FM18 Stainless Steel flow meter and the ADT FM03 flow meter frequency adapter that can output flow rate in mL/min as RPM's on a 3 pin fan header.
> 
> Wanted to check the best way to hook this up to my Aquero 6 XT. I'm assuming this 3 pin fan plug should just be plugged into a FAN plug on the Aquero (e.g. FAN 4).
> 
> The part I'm worried about is the instructions that came with the Koolance flow meter and adapter specifically said something like: "Make sure you don't power the adapter from fan header". The fan cable that goes from the adapter to the Aquero would be a 3 pin and it has 2 pins wired up.
> 
> Is it safe to just plug in to FAN 4, or should i setup the Aquero to never send any power through FAN 4 (i.e. maximum power to 0%) first?
> 
> If anyone has any experience connecting these flow meters / adapters to the Aquero or advice around this would be much appreciated.
> 
> Thanks guys,
> 
> Bruce


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *reklaw75*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> you could just use the flow port, without that adapter,
> 
> however we would need to rewire it, makes it more trouble then it is worth
> 
> however that flow meter adapter is not wired for +12v so you should be fine.
> 
> with that said what i would do is just install it on my mobo on a fan header , and import it to aq using a software sensor
> @Buzz247
> 
> you can not use the newer aquasuites with the multi switch, you will have to attach it to the aquabus and use it that way,
> 
> however there is no PWM output capability
> 
> otherwise you can use the old version of it, that is compatible. ( see the multiswitch instructions )
> 
> 
> 
> Hi Mega Man,
> 
> I actually have a spare FAN output that i don't use on the AQ6. Reason i wanted to use a header on the AQ6 was in the case flow stopped when the OS wasn't loaded (and therefore an imported software sensor wouldn't have any values as AIDA64 and AQservice wouldn't be running). If i set FAN 4 output to 0% power and used that to plug in the ADT FM03 3 pin cable into, would that work (i.e. not fry the ADT FM03 and read in the RPM)?
> 
> Thanks in advance,
> 
> Bruce
Click to expand...

You can plug the 3 pin plug with the 2 wires, blue and black, from the frequency adapter to any of the A6 fan ports, and the rpm displayed will be flow in ml/m.

Just be sure that the other 2 wires, black and yellow, are connected to a 12V source.

The flow meters work best in a vertical orientation with flow going upwards, but also work OK horizontally if the flow has a rise after the meter to be sure it always stays completely full.

A horizontal setup that dumps into the top of a res is the least viable setup.

Darlene


----------



## mbreslin

Look who just made it in to the club! AQ6XT and faceplate/heatsink.



Anyone have a quick link to the specific post that shows how to tell if it's the newer version? I'll start looking for it in the mean time.

Thanks.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mbreslin*
> 
> Look who just made it in to the club! AQ6XT and faceplate/heatsink.
> 
> 
> 
> Anyone have a quick link to the specific post that shows how to tell if it's the newer version? I'll start looking for it in the mean time.
> 
> Thanks.


congrats. here we go:

http://www.overclock.net/t/1474470/ocn-aquaero-owners-club/620#post_22271863


----------



## mbreslin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> congrats. here we go:
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1474470/ocn-aquaero-owners-club/620#post_22271863


Thanks so much, I have the 47s, a bit of a relief being I'm going with all sp120 pwm fans.

+rep


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mbreslin*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> congrats. here we go:
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1474470/ocn-aquaero-owners-club/620#post_22271863
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks so much, I have the 47s, a bit of a relief being I'm going with all sp120 pwm fans.
> 
> +rep
Click to expand...

Where did you order it from . . .

Nice to know where they have the new version in stock now.

D.


----------



## mbreslin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Where did you order it from . . .
> 
> Nice to know where they have the new version in stock now.
> 
> D.


Frozencpu. I ordered last Tuesday.


----------



## invaoman

Has anybody had any success with modding the three red leds on the front panel of the 5/6 xt? I'm planing on adding an 6xt to my build but I can't have red lights ruining my blue/green colour scheme...









Any help would be greatly appreciated!


----------



## mbreslin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *invaoman*
> 
> Has anybody had any success with modding the three red leds on the front panel of the 5/6 xt? I'm planing on adding an 6xt to my build but I can't have red lights ruining my blue/green colour scheme...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Any help would be greatly appreciated!


I asked specifically about these LEDs and was told they could be turned off, I very much hope this is true because like you I do not want any red leds. It actually was the final hurdle for me to actually purchase the controller.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mbreslin*
> 
> Any chance those 3 red LEDs on the XT can be turned off?
> 
> Thanks.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> You can adjust pretty much everything of these LEDs in the user interface tab.


Unfortunately I can't really work on my build during the day so it will be another eight hours or so before I can check.


----------



## invaoman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mbreslin*
> 
> I asked specifically about these LEDs and was told they could be turned off, I very much hope this is true because like you I do not want any red leds. It actually was the final hurdle for me to actually purchase the controller.
> 
> Unfortunately I can't really work on my build during the day so it will be another eight hours or so before I can check.


Yes please do let me know, that would be great! It is indeed the final hurdle for me as well. No idea why they just didn't use white leds to make it more neutral... if I can turn them off then that would be ok too I guess.


----------



## valvehead

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mbreslin*
> 
> I asked specifically about these LEDs and was told they could be turned off, I very much hope this is true because like you I do not want any red leds. It actually was the final hurdle for me to actually purchase the controller.


I can almost guarantee that you can turn then off completely. I've got mine set to turn off when idle, and I'm pretty sure that you can turn them off for active mode too.

I'm not at home to confirm, but I think the settings are only available directly on the Aquaero and not in Aquasuite.


----------



## mbreslin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *invaoman*
> 
> Yes please do let me know, that would be great! It is indeed the final hurdle for me as well. No idea why they just didn't use white leds to make it more neutral... if I can turn them off then that would be ok too I guess.


I was just able to check and you can have them off at idle and active, and several levels of brightness as well.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *valvehead*
> 
> I can almost guarantee that you can turn then off completely. I've got mine set to turn off when idle, and I'm pretty sure that you can turn them off for active mode too.
> 
> I'm not at home to confirm, but I think the settings are only available directly on the Aquaero and not in Aquasuite.


Yup, thank you.

I've had two of these on the front of my case for about almost 5 years and I'm ready to not have any lights whatsoever.


----------



## invaoman

Perfect - thank you ! Well then I guess there's nothing standing between me and minus €170!


----------



## mbreslin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *invaoman*
> 
> Perfect - thank you ! Well then I guess there's nothing standing between me and minus €170!


Yeah I mean it seems good so far, unfortunately it will be going in a completely new x99 build so I won't get to play with the software for quite awhile.

I did forget to mention earlier I put 8x sp120 pwm fans on a pwm splitter and was able to control them all.


----------



## invaoman

That was my plan too - it's going into a new x99 build for me as well... but you know, you can never start planing too early!


----------



## reklaw75

Hey guys,

Thanks IT Diva and Others for the advice on flow meters however the Koolance flow meter and adapter I got appear DOA (I don't know whether it's the flow meter or the adapter or both). I'll be returning these for a refund.

I've decided to get a Aqua Computer Flow Meter instead and hook it into the AQ6 XT. Had some questions for you guys before i put an order in with frozen CPU (shipping from US of A to Aus!)

Question 1: Is this the right model to get for my estimated flow of ~120 Gallons Per Hour / 453 Liters Per Hour.
Link: http://www.frozencpu.com/products/16789/bus-316/Aquacomputer_G14_Flow_Meter_Sensor_Block_USB_Version-Aquaero_SeriesPoweradjustFan-O-Matic_ProAlphacool_Heatmaster53129.html

Question 2: Is all I need this additional Aquabus cable to link it into the AQ6?
Link: http://www.frozencpu.com/products/19438/bus-344/Aquacomputer_Aquabus_4-Pin_Connection_Cable_53122.html

I already have the 24pin ATX break cable listed below-
Link: http://www.frozencpu.com/products/23105/bus-374/Aquacomputer_Aquaero_Power_Connect_-_24_pin_ATX_Standby_Power_ATX_Break.html
I want to hook this in so the Aquero can power off the system in the event that flow stops / gets too low. I believe i also need this adapter:
Link: http://www.frozencpu.com/products/23856/bus-387/Aquacomputer_Relay_Connector_Plug_-_3_Contact_Aquaero_5_and_6_53080.html

Question 3: I'm not an electronics expert (i.e. not experienced in soldering and circuit boards) is there a HOWTO guide on how this needs wired into the connector- i don't want to fry the AQ6 or PSU etc.

Question 4: If i wanted to control my two D5 Vario pumps (the ones with Molex 12V power and the single RPM output cable) what cable would i need to control this via the AQ6 (power controlled?)

Thanks,

Bruce


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *reklaw75*
> 
> Hey guys,
> 
> Thanks IT Diva and Others for the advice on flow meters however the Koolance flow meter and adapter I got appear DOA (I don't know whether it's the flow meter or the adapter or both). I'll be returning these for a refund.
> 
> I've decided to get a Aqua Computer Flow Meter instead and hook it into the AQ6 XT. Had some questions for you guys before i put an order in with frozen CPU (shipping from US of A to Aus!)
> 
> Question 1: Is this the right model to get for my estimated flow of ~120 Gallons Per Hour / 453 Liters Per Hour.
> Link: http://www.frozencpu.com/products/16789/bus-316/Aquacomputer_G14_Flow_Meter_Sensor_Block_USB_Version-Aquaero_SeriesPoweradjustFan-O-Matic_ProAlphacool_Heatmaster53129.html
> 
> *This model have a broad range of flow*
> 
> Question 2: Is all I need this additional Aquabus cable to link it into the AQ6?
> Link: http://www.frozencpu.com/products/19438/bus-344/Aquacomputer_Aquabus_4-Pin_Connection_Cable_53122.html
> 
> *I think the usb model comes with the aquabus cable so no need to order separately but check the "included in the box" in FZCPU or Aquacomputer shop*
> 
> I already have the 24pin ATX break cable listed below-
> Link: http://www.frozencpu.com/products/23105/bus-374/Aquacomputer_Aquaero_Power_Connect_-_24_pin_ATX_Standby_Power_ATX_Break.html
> I want to hook this in so the Aquero can power off the system in the event that flow stops / gets too low. I believe i also need this adapter:
> Link: http://www.frozencpu.com/products/23856/bus-387/Aquacomputer_Relay_Connector_Plug_-_3_Contact_Aquaero_5_and_6_53080.html
> 
> Question 3: I'm not an electronics expert (i.e. not experienced in soldering and circuit boards) is there a HOWTO guide on how this needs wired into the connector- i don't want to fry the AQ6 or PSU etc.
> 
> *Never did that but remember to have read it here in this thread.*
> 
> Question 4: If i wanted to control my two D5 Vario pumps (the ones with Molex 12V power and the single RPM output cable) what cable would i need to control this via the AQ6 (power controlled?)
> 
> *Not sure you would be able to control the vario. The single rpm cable is just to report the rpm not to actually control the pump voltage...You need a different model for that as far as I understand.*
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Bruce


Hope it helps. Reply in bold above.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *reklaw75*
> 
> Hey guys,
> 
> Thanks IT Diva and Others for the advice on flow meters however the Koolance flow meter and adapter I got appear DOA (I don't know whether it's the flow meter or the adapter or both). I'll be returning these for a refund.
> 
> I've decided to get a Aqua Computer Flow Meter instead and hook it into the AQ6 XT. Had some questions for you guys before i put an order in with frozen CPU (shipping from US of A to Aus!)
> 
> Question 1: Is this the right model to get for my estimated flow of ~120 Gallons Per Hour / 453 Liters Per Hour.
> Link: http://www.frozencpu.com/products/16789/bus-316/Aquacomputer_G14_Flow_Meter_Sensor_Block_USB_Version-Aquaero_SeriesPoweradjustFan-O-Matic_ProAlphacool_Heatmaster53129.html
> 
> Question 2: Is all I need this additional Aquabus cable to link it into the AQ6?
> Link: http://www.frozencpu.com/products/19438/bus-344/Aquacomputer_Aquabus_4-Pin_Connection_Cable_53122.html
> 
> I already have the 24pin ATX break cable listed below-
> Link: http://www.frozencpu.com/products/23105/bus-374/Aquacomputer_Aquaero_Power_Connect_-_24_pin_ATX_Standby_Power_ATX_Break.html
> I want to hook this in so the Aquero can power off the system in the event that flow stops / gets too low. I believe i also need this adapter:
> Link: http://www.frozencpu.com/products/23856/bus-387/Aquacomputer_Relay_Connector_Plug_-_3_Contact_Aquaero_5_and_6_53080.html
> 
> Question 3: I'm not an electronics expert (i.e. not experienced in soldering and circuit boards) is there a HOWTO guide on how this needs wired into the connector- i don't want to fry the AQ6 or PSU etc.
> 
> Question 4: If i wanted to control my two D5 Vario pumps (the ones with Molex 12V power and the single RPM output cable) what cable would i need to control this via the AQ6 (power controlled?)
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Bruce


I can show you how to wire it but it is easy I'll make pics when I get home.

Just don't do like I did last night and plug the fan header into the flow ( ment to put it into the rpm ..... bad night)

However it comes with both a usb and a rpm/Aquabus cable. So you don't need to buy a cable


----------



## reklaw75

Thanks Gabrielzm and Megaman,

Gabrielzm- ta for the responses. I'm not overly worried about controlling the pumps to be honest as they are inaudible for me anyway and i'm happy to run them on full









Megaman- the pictures would be much appreciated- thanks in advance







 Can I ask what happened when you plugged the fan header into the flow plug? Did it burn out anything? Hope your AQ is
alright









Bruce


----------



## mbreslin

I take it the AQ6 issue with controlling pwm d5 pumps exists in all the other pwm variants as well, such as this one?

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/24894/ex-pmp-325/Alphacool_VPP655_PWM_Pump_-_Single_Edition_13169.html#blank

Thanks.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mbreslin*
> 
> I take it the AQ6 issue with controlling pwm d5 pumps exists in all the other pwm variants as well, such as this one?
> 
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/24894/ex-pmp-325/Alphacool_VPP655_PWM_Pump_-_Single_Edition_13169.html#blank
> 
> Thanks.


I would say almost 100% sure unless Alphacool ask Laing to do a different implementation of PWM which I believe is highly unlikely. All d5 pumps are made by Laing. Swiftech was the first (I think) to come out with a PWM model but these days we have XSPC, EK and Alphacool. All of these are made by Laing and re-branded.


----------



## Mega Man

i have no problem controlling all 4 of my pumps with aq6xts

i use the swiftech pwm splitter, not the 8 way the 2 way and daisy chain them ( i will be making my own in winter, when business dies down ) i just put the other 3 to mobo headers ( to monitor rpm of pumps )

http://www.swiftech.com/PWMsplittercable.aspx


----------



## mbreslin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> i have no problem controlling all 4 of my pumps with aq6xts
> 
> i use the swiftech pwm splitter, not the 8 way the 2 way and daisy chain them ( i will be making my own in winter, when business dies down ) i just put the other 3 to mobo headers ( to monitor rpm of pumps )
> 
> http://www.swiftech.com/PWMsplittercable.aspx


Which pumps do you have exactly?

Thanks.


----------



## Mega Man

MCP35x2s

( two of them )

http://www.swiftech.com/MCP35x2PUMP.aspx

( two of these in a special housing )

http://www.swiftech.com/mcp35x12vdcpump.aspx

run 4 in 2 rigs ( total of 8 pumps ) both with AQ6xts,
and my H220 from one as well in another rig


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> MCP35x2s
> 
> ( two of them )
> 
> http://www.swiftech.com/MCP35x2PUMP.aspx
> 
> ( two of these in a special housing )
> 
> http://www.swiftech.com/mcp35x12vdcpump.aspx
> 
> run 4 in 2 rigs ( total of 8 pumps ) both with AQ6xts,
> and my H220 from one as well in another rig


the problem does not apply to laing ddc variants but specifically to D5 PWM.


----------



## mbreslin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> the problem does not apply to laing ddc variants but specifically to D5 PWM.


Right. MM got me excited thinking he had some D5 pwm variant that worked. Oh well. I will continue to wait for a dual 50x pump top and if that takes too long I'll get 2 D5s and do the mod.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> the problem does not apply to laing ddc variants but specifically to D5 PWM.


i am sorry i missread that
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *mbreslin*
> 
> Since the D5 pwm versions aren't controllable via pwm on the aq6 can it undervolt one (or two) of the plain jane d5s or will cause too much heat?
> 
> It would be 18 fans, a flow meter, a water temp sensor and 2 D5s, room for this on an aq6 xt/pro?
> 
> Thanks.
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *RDKing2*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *mbreslin*
> 
> Since the D5 pwm versions aren't controllable via pwm on the aq6 can it undervolt one (or two) of the plain jane d5s or will cause too much heat?
> 
> It would be 18 fans, a flow meter, a water temp sensor and 2 D5s, room for this on an aq6 xt/pro?
> 
> Thanks.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> If you want to control D5 pumps just use the Aquacomputer D5's and hook up via aquabus
> 
> These http://www.frozencpu.com/products/17488/ex-pmp-211/Aquacomputer_D5_Pump_Motor_w_USB_and_Aquabus_Interface_41093.html?tl=g30c107s1802
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *mbreslin*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> how are pwm pumps not controllable with it? you can easily control pwm pumps
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> According to the information in the first post there is some issue with pwm D5s and the aq6.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> huh, i didnt know that, good thing i use MCP35xs, may be switching to the new MCP350x
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Guys, . . . . .
> 
> While the A6 doesn't control the PWM version of the D5 natively . . . . .
> 
> A perfectly workable mod is so simple that you should not be dismissing the PWM D5.
> 
> PWM control allows for operation all the way down to the 800 rpm range, with full controllability throughout the lower range, around 900 to 2000 rpm, that you can't even get with voltage control.
> 
> For a single pump the mod looks like this on the connector to the A6:
> 
> 
> 
> If you want to run a dual D5 setup, then do the mod on a short extension, and plug your dual PWM splitter into the extension.
> 
> 
> 
> Darlene
Click to expand...


----------



## 4WDBenio

Roumer Mill: AC7 will ship as standard with black face plate, blue LEDs, and a built in Diva Reader.


----------



## fast_fate

Ported an MPS 200 flow sensor today into an MPS 400+.
We knew we could already though right








I also noted how "unusual" (to keep it polite) I think it is, the way in which Aquaero changes it's increments of flow readings of the MPS flow sensors.
I find it odd anyways


----------



## WHIMington

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fast_fate*
> 
> Ported an MPS 200 flow sensor today into an MPS 400+.
> We knew we could already though right
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I also noted how "unusual" (to keep it polite) I think it is, the way in which Aquaero changes it's increments of flow readings of the MPS flow sensors.
> I find it odd anyways


Good job sir, since I have both the MPS 200 and high flow as well, I might just mod it this way! One question though, what is the simplest way to do the flow senser calibration?


----------



## fast_fate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WHIMington*
> 
> Good job sir, since I have both the MPS 200 and high flow as well, I might just mod it this way! One question though, *what is the simplest way to do the flow sensor calibration*?


Thanks








Don't go bigger than 7mm and don't wiggle the drill bit around.
I think 7mm bore must be very close to being the point where the sensor can't tell the pressure difference on either side of the DP mid-plate.
Using a 17/64 size drill bit might end up exactly at the MPS 400 bore.
Where as the 7mm I used resulted in the 400+ version









For the MPS flow sensors you need to take the unscaled value readings and pair them with *a know reliable flow rate.*
Unscaled value is a mystery formula number of Aqua Computer's algorithm, but can be found on the lower left screen of the MPS device configuration page to use for calibration.
Once you have a list of unscaled values and flow rates you need to "add" them in to make the basis of your calibration curve (red is stock, green is my plot points)
When you click "calculate calibration data" it merges your data with the curve for the sensor type and tubing size you have selected.
Kind of annoying that it merges instead of creating new chart, but anyways.
Instead of the merging, you can choose to just alter the stock curve with the fine tuning box's under the chart.
The scaled value is GPH even though it states it is GPM.
The minimum and maximum flow is in LPH and based from the sensor type (MPS 100,200 or 400) stock calibration data.
After your curve is created you'll need to run up and down the flow range and massage the plot points with the fine tuning for best accuracy.



So what is a know reliable flow rate.
That's the question as everything else it done based on this.
It's a trust thing I suppose, paying a premium price for something and expecting that what it does it does well.
So an quality panel flow meter is the best option, but not everyone will have one of these (or be getting one)

For you, having an AC high flow meter as well is a great advantage.
I used Martin's rpm calibration meathod on one of these with great success (with 1/2 x 3/4 fittings)
I briefly described it here a few weeks.
I can't see any reason why the rpm meathod won't work on any size fittings/tubing.
To check that though, today I am going to try it with 3/8 x/5/8 fittings as I'm putting that size fittings on for another small project -







Gabz
After you calibrate the "high flow" you could then use it as a know reliable flow rate to calibrate the MPS device.


----------



## Buzz247

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> you could just use the flow port, without that adapter,
> 
> @Buzz247
> 
> you can not use the newer aquasuites with the multi switch, you will have to attach it to the aquabus and use it that way,
> 
> however there is no PWM output capability
> 
> otherwise you can use the old version of it, that is compatible. ( see the multiswitch instructions )


TY - the instructions do not cover compatibility of hardware or software issues. There were some other questions I had in my original post that I have had to sort and test for - with some success.

I downloaded the old aquasuite version and was able to access the multiswitch that way (but it wouldnt see the aquaero oddly). Once I had the firmware updated and aquabus ID assigned, I went back to the 2014v2.3 software and an aquabus connection. Don't see it showing on any tab, so still trying to figure out how to get it to show there.

Also, the issue with unrecognized device etc etc - turns out it is because of a daisy chain I made for the USB on the PA2s. Apparently, they each need a separate connection and cannot be chained from one connector to the next. So will have to construct new independent USB cables to allow this.

Brings up a separate question - can aquabus connections be chained from one connector to another? I believe so, but would rather check before I waste time and material like I did on the USB chain. I assume the assigned IDs should allow it correct?

I have asked prior, and have been told there is no advantage to connecting both USB and aquabus - that is not completely true. aquastream pump internal sensors require aquabus to read sensor data into curve controllers. same for the PA2s. You cannot access the sensor data for actual use without both being connected. USB connection allows detailed control of device. So unless you want that, just aquabus would be fine - but for fine tuning AND sensor use you need both. really wish I would have gotten a complete answer the first time around.

Tried this image for static page - it is saved .png 256x64 monochrome and still no luck. suggestions? Solved - I'm a dork

attaching file for anyone that wants to pull it up and view it as well

OmegaAQ.png 0k .png file


----------



## fast_fate

The Aquaero on the test bench decided to have a hissy fit today.

The display stopped working which effectively caused the whole unit to stop functioning.

The USB connection was lost and no screen.
Only number 2 fan outlet had any sort of power - flicking on very briefly every couple of seconds.
This was tied in to the screen doing a very faint flicker at the same time.

I always turn off PSU and disconnect power from wall when plugging in cables or removing them.
I do best I can with the USB from laptop - but only way is to pull the USB plug out after shut down, as even with power cable out it still draws 5v from laptop battery from the USB port.

I removed the front fascia and the screen module - leaving the Aquaero now looking like at LT version.

I hooked the power back up, and a familiar blinking LED was flashing.
I tried all the fan outputs - all now working.
Next the USB, and was recognized in Aquasuite.
In the system page the Aquaero was now recognized as an LT though - great - maybe have hope yet.
Tried the Flow port next and that is reporting RPM from the Flow Sensor High flow which is in the loop.
The D5 Pump is reporting as a connected AquaBus device in the Aquasuite settings page.

Took apart again and refitted the screen module and front fascia - nothing, same as before.
The screen module must have died - which is causing the Aquaero itself to not function.

I'm scared to try a screen module from another Aquaero - for fear of that screen failing if it is a fault with the Aquaero side of the screen module.
Along the same train of thought I am scared to fit that bad screen module to a different Aquaero in case it does something bad to a good Aquaero.

@Shoggy - anything I should be looking for on the screen module or it's connection on the Aquaero ??
Any way of doing a warranty RMA with just the serial number - has less than 17 days total up time on the unit









Here I have it set up and testing the functions.


----------



## Nornam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Buzz247*
> 
> Tried this image for static page - it is saved .png 256x64 monochrome and still no luck. suggestions?
> 
> attaching file for anyone that wants to pull it up and view it as well
> 
> OmegaAQ.png 0k .png file


The image worked for me Buzz & had it on my screen when I replaced my own image...

So not sure what your doing wrong I saved it to paint & then just imported it to the Aquasuite custom logo pages...... Are you making sure that you taking the "User defined logo" tab from the "Miscellaneous" drop down menu in the "Available screens" drop down menu's Tab??? & then sliding that across to the "Displayed screens" section to the right of the Available screens Tab??...

Nam..


----------



## Buzz247

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nornam*
> 
> The image worked for me Buzz & had it on my screen when I replaced my own image...
> 
> So not sure what your doing wrong I saved it to paint & then just imported it to the Aquasuite custom logo pages...... Are you making sure that you taking the "User defined logo" tab from the "Miscellaneous" drop down menu in the "Available screens" drop down menu's Tab??? & then sliding that across to the "Displayed screens" section to the right of the Available screens Tab??...
> 
> Nam..


Got it - was moving USB LCD tab, not user defined logo


----------



## Nornam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Buzz247*
> 
> Got it - was moving USB LCD tab, not user defined logo


Hehe... yep does help if you move the correct panel over like lol..... Easy mistake to make though







..... Glad you got it sussed in the end









Nam...


----------



## bern43

Looks like my MPS 400 Flow Sensor just randomly stopped working. Had an alarm trigger and freaked out thinking that my pumps stopped. Any troubleshooting tips? I'm hoping it isn't dead, but reading around it seems like these things are not the most reliable.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Buzz247*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> you could just use the flow port, without that adapter,
> 
> @Buzz247
> 
> you can not use the newer aquasuites with the multi switch, you will have to attach it to the aquabus and use it that way,
> 
> however there is no PWM output capability
> 
> otherwise you can use the old version of it, that is compatible. ( see the multiswitch instructions )
> 
> 
> 
> *1*TY - the instructions do not cover compatibility of hardware or software issues. There were some other questions I had in my original post that I have had to sort and test for - with some success.
> 
> *2*I downloaded the old aquasuite version and was able to access the multiswitch that way (but it wouldnt see the aquaero oddly). Once I had the firmware updated and aquabus ID assigned, I went back to the 2014v2.3 software and an aquabus connection. Don't see it showing on any tab, so still trying to figure out how to get it to show there.
> 
> *3*Also, the issue with unrecognized device etc etc - turns out it is because of a daisy chain I made for the USB on the PA2s. Apparently, they each need a separate connection and cannot be chained from one connector to the next. So will have to construct new independent USB cables to allow this.
> 
> *4*Brings up a separate question - can aquabus connections be chained from one connector to another? I believe so, but would rather check before I waste time and material like I did on the USB chain. I assume the assigned IDs should allow it correct?
> 
> _*5*_I have asked prior, and have been told there is no advantage to connecting both USB and aquabus - that is not completely true. aquastream pump internal sensors require aquabus to read sensor data into curve controllers. same for the PA2s. You cannot access the sensor data for actual use without both being connected. USB connection allows detailed control of device. So unless you want that, just aquabus would be fine - but for fine tuning AND sensor use you need both. really wish I would have gotten a complete answer the first time around.
> 
> Tried this image for static page - it is saved .png 256x64 monochrome and still no luck. suggestions? Solved - I'm a dork
> 
> attaching file for anyone that wants to pull it up and view it as well
> 
> OmegaAQ.png 0k .png file
Click to expand...

1
they do say so very largely in the instructions .
2
it does not show up as a device, they do show up under outputs(iirc ) IE like a relay on or off. again you can not use PWM , i dont have it hooked up atm or i would show you
i am assuming you changed the jumper config and it is configured properly
3
yes you CAN NOT daisy chain usb, it can actually damage the controller. sadly moddiy and people who source parts from them sell cables that do it.
you have to have something that tells the controller it is a hub, and as a hub it will share bandwidth
i use and LOVE this
http://www.nzxt.com/product/detail/99-iu01-usb-expansion-case-accessory
i have Bluetooth modules for them as well, however i do not ever want to use usb wifi, i like onboard/pcie, never had good luck with it, the other internal usb port ( not header ) i use for the logitech unifying receiver ( i use the touchpad )
4
yes that is how they are designed, AC recommends using their splitter, i ( as it sounds like you ) will be making my own cables,
5
the negative here is that is you connect high speed aquabus with usb you can/will damage the unit, high speed adds 5v line (iirc it may be 12v)
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fast_fate*
> 
> The Aquaero on the test bench decided to have a hissy fit today.
> 
> The display stopped working which effectively caused the whole unit to stop functioning.
> 
> The USB connection was lost and no screen.
> Only number 2 fan outlet had any sort of power - flicking on very briefly every couple of seconds.
> This was tied in to the screen doing a very faint flicker at the same time.
> 
> I always turn off PSU and disconnect power from wall when plugging in cables or removing them.
> I do best I can with the USB from laptop - but only way is to pull the USB plug out after shut down, as even with power cable out it still draws 5v from laptop battery from the USB port.
> 
> I removed the front fascia and the screen module - leaving the Aquaero now looking like at LT version.
> 
> I hooked the power back up, and a familiar blinking LED was flashing.
> I tried all the fan outputs - all now working.
> Next the USB, and was recognized in Aquasuite.
> In the system page the Aquaero was now recognized as an LT though - great - maybe have hope yet.
> Tried the Flow port next and that is reporting RPM from the Flow Sensor High flow which is in the loop.
> The D5 Pump is reporting as a connected AquaBus device in the Aquasuite settings page.
> 
> Took apart again and refitted the screen module and front fascia - nothing, same as before.
> The screen module must have died - which is causing the Aquaero itself to not function.
> 
> I'm scared to try a screen module from another Aquaero - for fear of that screen failing if it is a fault with the Aquaero side of the screen module.
> Along the same train of thought I am scared to fit that bad screen module to a different Aquaero in case it does something bad to a good Aquaero.
> 
> @Shoggy - anything I should be looking for on the screen module or it's connection on the Aquaero ??
> Any way of doing a warranty RMA with just the serial number - has less than 17 days total up time on the unit
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here I have it set up and testing the functions.


yea without screen it becomes a LT which i like, cause you can use a aq6 as slave, already been told this by shoggy
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Buzz247*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Nornam*
> 
> The image worked for me Buzz & had it on my screen when I replaced my own image...
> 
> So not sure what your doing wrong I saved it to paint & then just imported it to the Aquasuite custom logo pages...... Are you making sure that you taking the "User defined logo" tab from the "Miscellaneous" drop down menu in the "Available screens" drop down menu's Tab??? & then sliding that across to the "Displayed screens" section to the right of the Available screens Tab??...
> 
> Nam..
> 
> 
> 
> Got it - was moving USB LCD tab, not user defined logo
Click to expand...

i wont tell you how long it took me to figure out how to make it work ....


----------



## fast_fate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> yea without screen it becomes a LT which i like, cause you can use a aq6 as slave, already been told this by shoggy


That's great isn't it - if you wanted to remove the screen to use as a slave device








Not so good that I found this out because the screen is no longer is working


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fast_fate*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> yea without screen it becomes a LT which i like, cause you can use a aq6 as slave, already been told this by shoggy
> 
> 
> 
> That's great isn't it - if you wanted to remove the screen to use as a slave device
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Not so good that I found this out because the screen is no longer is working
Click to expand...

Ermmmmm, . . . now that you're the first one of us to have a 6LT, can you see if it looses its PWM capability as a slave like the 5LT does when set as a slave. . .

Or, . . maybe Shoggy can just tell us









Darlene


----------



## fast_fate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Ermmmmm, . . . now that you're the first one of us to have a 6LT, can you see if it looses its PWM capability as a slave like the 5LT does when set as a slave. . .
> 
> Or, . . maybe Shoggy can just tell us
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Darlene


Sorry Darlene,
I can't help








It began life as a 5 Pro


----------



## Mega Man

it does VOLTAGE only

but you dont have the heat issue

also asked shoggy about this


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fast_fate*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Ermmmmm, . . . now that you're the first one of us to have a 6LT, can you see if it looses its PWM capability as a slave like the 5LT does when set as a slave. . .
> 
> Or, . . maybe Shoggy can just tell us
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Darlene
> 
> 
> 
> Sorry Darlene,
> I can't help
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It began life as a 5 Pro
Click to expand...

My bad, thought it was a 6 . . .

D.


----------



## kgtuning

Might be a silly question but could someone tell me the thickness of the 6 is? From the LCD screen to the PCB on the back. Thanks in advance.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kgtuning*
> 
> Might be a silly question but could someone tell me the thickness of the 6 is? From the LCD screen to the PCB on the back. Thanks in advance.


about 20-21 mm not counting the headers.


----------



## kgtuning

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> about 20-21 mm not counting the headers.


Wow that was fast! Thanks!


----------



## Buzz247

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> 1
> they do say so very largely in the instructions .
> 2
> it does not show up as a device, they do show up under outputs(iirc ) IE like a relay on or off. again you can not use PWM , i dont have it hooked up atm or i would show you
> i am assuming you changed the jumper config and it is configured properly
> 3
> yes you CAN NOT daisy chain usb, it can actually damage the controller. sadly moddiy and people who source parts from them sell cables that do it.
> you have to have something that tells the controller it is a hub, and as a hub it will share bandwidth
> i use and LOVE this
> http://www.nzxt.com/product/detail/99-iu01-usb-expansion-case-accessory
> i have Bluetooth modules for them as well, however i do not ever want to use usb wifi, i like onboard/pcie, never had good luck with it, the other internal usb port ( not header ) i use for the logitech unifying receiver ( i use the touchpad )
> 4
> yes that is how they are designed, AC recommends using their splitter, i ( as it sounds like you ) will be making my own cables,
> 5
> the negative here is that is you connect high speed aquabus with usb you can/will damage the unit, high speed adds 5v line (iirc it may be 12v)
> i wont tell you how long it took me to figure out how to make it work ....


1-Hrm.... must have missed it - ONLY reference I saw to compatibility was in regards to aquastream connections.
2-Finally got it to show using Aquabus 1, and it shows, as you said, under power output pull downs. I can set preset controller functions for it, but can't do single button macros or any such as you could with the old software. Might be able to do something once I figure out how to set profiles, or maybe even using a timer event. The front panel lights are brilliant, and don't always want them active lol
3-Live n learn on the USB thing. Thankfully, I didn't damage any controllers as everything still recognizes fine when connected independently. Just have to build more cables, and yes, connect them into the internal hub. I have 2 of those NZXTs for that purpose. Holy spaghetti though once you get this bugger all wired!
4- TY for confirmation - got enough spitter running already - this will probably be a single wire with tails for each connection I need.
5-I would like confirmation on using USB and Aquabus though. My understanding is they are independent isolated circuits, and therefore should not be damaged by using both connections. With exception of situations like this: Aquastream pump USB connected, and has 3pin for aquabus/flow connection. You have to connect via USB first to set the output, addressing, and priority or you may damage units. That connection can either be an aquabus/signal output (water temp, electronic temp, rpm tach), or aquabus/ flow sensor signal. Aside from that detail, I have not read anything saying you cannot use both. In fact Shoggy has mentioned you can, but no need to run both. (which for my purposes of my loop and information and control i need, turns out I actually need both)
6 - and ty for letting me I am not alone in the facepalm department on that custom screen lol


----------



## mantrius

Does anyone know what the molex part number or pin pitch is for the female connector on the three pin cable (part number 53027) used to connect the non-usb flow meter (part number 53068) to an Aquaero? Just to be clear I'm not asking about the fan connector side but the larger 3 pin connector.


----------



## Ironsmack

BTW, how do you add yourself to the owners list? A pic of the actual unit?

If not - @IT Diva, can you add me to the list? 5 LT


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ironsmack*
> 
> BTW, how do you add yourself to the owners list? A pic of the actual unit?
> 
> If not - @IT Diva, can you add me to the list? 5 LT


Done


----------



## mantrius

Could you add me as well, IT Diva? I've got a 6xt


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mantrius*
> 
> Could you add me as well, IT Diva? I've got a 6xt


Welcome aboard . . .









D.


----------



## WiLd FyeR

Still can't figure out how to keep the fans from starting at 100% from a cold start.


----------



## VSG

Maybe the fans you are using have a duty cycle that maxes out around 50% power? I haven't seen any fan like that but that's one possibility. Does it ramp down after start up? If so, forget that as a plausible reason.


----------



## WiLd FyeR

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Maybe the fans you are using have a duty cycle that maxes out around 50% power? I haven't seen any fan like that but that's one possibility. Does it ramp down after start up? If so, forget that as a plausible reason.


Will try to lower down the power percentage and work from there.


----------



## RDKing2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiLd FyeR*
> 
> Still can't figure out how to keep the fans from starting at 100% from a cold start.


Did not see a comment from you on my earlier post so not sure if you checked this. Is the AQ6 totally powering down? Meaning display is off. If so the the unit must boot up and the fans will go to 100% untill the AQ6 is up and running. To prevent the AQ6 from totally shutting down make sure the USB ports do not shut down when powering off the computer. Usually a setting in the MB bios.


----------



## WiLd FyeR

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RDKing2*
> 
> Did not see a comment from you on my earlier post so not sure if you checked this. Is the AQ6 totally powering down? Meaning display is off. If so the the unit must boot up and the fans will go to 100% untill the AQ6 is up and running. To prevent the AQ6 from totally shutting down make sure the USB ports do not shut down when powering off the computer. Usually a setting in the MB bios.


The AQ6 isn't powering down, its dim when i power down the PC.


----------



## RDKing2

Ok. How low are you running the fans? I run my PWM fans at 25-30% and do not need to use the start boost. Have you tried with it off?


----------



## WiLd FyeR

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RDKing2*
> 
> Ok. How low are you running the fans? I run my PWM fans at 25-30% and do not need to use the start boost. Have you tried with it off?


I have it at "5 S" on 30%, will try unchecking start boost.


----------



## Jakusonfire

Start boost automatically starts fans at 100%. It is mostly for using pumps at lower voltages to ensure they start up. There's no real need for it with fans.


----------



## WiLd FyeR

Unchecking "start boost" didn't work. Still at 100% at cold start.


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiLd FyeR*
> 
> Unchecking "start boost" didn't work. Still at 100% at cold start.


OK, just noticed you had startboost set at 30% anyway. I can only think it may be something to do with the PWM on the particular fans you are using?

On a side note;

Whatever happened to the Aquaero 5 supposedly being made cheaper than the 6 so it fit into a product range from 5LT to 6XT. Seems like the 5 XT is still more exe than the 6 pro at most places. Why would anyone buy a 5 when they are the same price as a 6


----------



## RDKing2

What type of controller are you using for the fans? A curve, preset? Are the fans properly assigned to the controller? If using a curve controller is there a proper data source? I have 14 140mm Akasa Vipers and 2 140mm Prolima fans and they all start at my various curves lowest setpoint. As previously mentioned it may be something with the fans?


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> Start boost automatically starts fans at 100%. It is mostly for using pumps at lower voltages to ensure they start up. There's no real need for it with fans.


no it doesnt if you set it not to
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *WiLd FyeR*
> 
> Unchecking "start boost" didn't work. Still at 100% at cold start.
> 
> 
> 
> OK, just noticed you had startboost set at 30% anyway. I can only think it may be something to do with the PWM on the particular fans you are using?
> 
> On a side note;
> 
> Whatever happened to the Aquaero 5 supposedly being made cheaper than the 6 so it fit into a product range from 5LT to 6XT. Seems like the 5 XT is still more exe than the 6 pro at most places. Why would anyone buy a 5 when they are the same price as a 6
Click to expand...

AC cant control what people charge


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> no it doesnt if you set it not to


Yes, That is what the, "Just noticed it was set to 30%" bit was about.


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiLd FyeR*
> 
> Still can't figure out how to keep the fans from starting at 100% from a cold start.


Deja vu. Two weeks ago you seemed to be happy with this solution:
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> And if you set start boost to 1 second, what happens then?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiLd FyeR*
> 
> Great i think that worked. Rep+


Why did you set the start boost duration back to 10 seconds? Does it make a difference what PWM percentage you set?

What kind of settings are the fans running at normally? Is your tacho wire connected correctly to the Aquaero for that fan? Do you have multiple fans on that header?


----------



## WiLd FyeR

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> Deja vu. Two weeks ago you seemed to be happy with this solution:
> 
> Why did you set the start boost duration back to 10 seconds? Does it make a difference what PWM percentage you set?
> 
> What kind of settings are the fans running at normally? Is your tacho wire connected correctly to the Aquaero for that fan? Do you have multiple fans on that header?


It was a Deja vu, I was in a hurry at that time so didn't really test it.

1-10 seconds didn't work so went on trying different timings. No difference with the PWM percentage.

Fans are ran on the control curve based on the GPU temp. I'm probably guessing that's why the start boost isn't working.


----------



## Wolfsbora

Hi all, will I need any other cable to connect to my MPS 400 other than the aquabus? Does the aquabus handle all power and data transferring?

Edit: Terribly written the first time.


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiLd FyeR*
> 
> It was a Deja vu, I was in a hurry at that time so didn't really test it.
> 
> 1-10 seconds didn't work so went on trying different timings. No difference with the PWM percentage.
> 
> Fans are ran on the control curve based on the GPU temp. I'm probably guessing that's why the start boost isn't working.


Ah right. GPU temp is only available when in Windows, so the Aquaero defaults to max speed until it sees the software sensor. Can you show the settings for the GPU curve controller?

(I also now have a deja vu about recommending you get a proper water sensor...)

But anyway, start boost should still work. Can you confirm whether there is one or more fans connected to that channel? And if it's multiple fans, how have you done the wiring? Is it some kind of splitter? If so, which type?


----------



## Jakusonfire

Yep that sounds right. A way around it is if you go into software sensors, the GPU sensor, there is a setting to set the default temp if Aquasuite can't access the GPU temp. By default it is 50C. So the system might think it is running hot til windows loads the GPU temp software. If you lower the default temp to something more like a normal temp it shouldn't speed up so much. Wisk is right that using hardware sensors for control curves works better. That way the Aquaero works independently of the system.


----------



## WiLd FyeR

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> Ah right. GPU temp is only available when in Windows, so the Aquaero defaults to max speed until it sees the software sensor. Can you show the settings for the GPU curve controller?
> 
> (I also now have a deja vu about recommending you get a proper water sensor...)
> 
> But anyway, start boost should still work. Can you confirm whether there is one or more fans connected to that channel? And if it's multiple fans, how have you done the wiring? Is it some kind of splitter? If so, which type?


ahahah.. I might eventually add a water sensor once I make another order. Or when I get a waterblock for the 8 or 9 series GPU.

I'm using 1 to 2 splitter for each channel Fan splitter. I'm using is the Noctua splitters that came with the PWM NF-12 fans.

REP+







for trying to help out.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> Yep that sounds right. A way around it is if you go into software sensors, the GPU sensor, there is a setting to set the default temp if Aquasuite can't access the GPU temp. By default it is 50C. So the system might think it is running hot til windows loads the GPU temp software. If you lower the default temp to something more like a normal temp it shouldn't speed up so much. Wisk is right that using hardware sensors for control curves works better. That way the Aquaero works independently of the system.


REP+







Thanks for the info, will check that out.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> Yep that sounds right. A way around it is if you go into software sensors, the GPU sensor, there is a setting to set the default temp if Aquasuite can't access the GPU temp. By default it is 50C. So the system might think it is running hot til windows loads the GPU temp software. If you lower the default temp to something more like a normal temp it shouldn't speed up so much. Wisk is right that using hardware sensors for control curves works better. That way the Aquaero works independently of the system.


yep i have mine set to ~ 75%


----------



## WiLd FyeR

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> Yep that sounds right. A way around it is if you go into software sensors, the GPU sensor, there is a setting to set the default temp if Aquasuite can't access the GPU temp. By default it is 50C. So the system might think it is running hot til windows loads the GPU temp software. If you lower the default temp to something more like a normal temp it shouldn't speed up so much. Wisk is right that using hardware sensors for control curves works better. That way the Aquaero works independently of the system.


Okay, got it to work. You were right. Had to go to the GPU temp software to change the default temp.

REP+


----------



## MeanBruce

Outstanding Red Harbinger Cross Desk Aquaero 6 XT build but why doesn't he just mount the Aquaero 6 mid chassis mounted viewing up thru the glass? How difficult is that? What owner of these desks is going to bend over while working just to gaze sideways far to the right for system information? Position the Aquaero 6 directly below you in front of your keyboard under the glass and use the remote or AquaSuite 2014.

All parts are from Performance PCs, Da best.









https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WHQvaej5SKA&list=UUXajVL9igC2Enc4lC41WlbA

.


----------



## RDKing2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiLd FyeR*
> 
> Okay, got it to work. You were right. Had to go to the GPU temp software to change the default temp.
> 
> REP+


Great you got it taken care of







Was thinking it had something to do with what was controlling the fans.


----------



## Malpractis

Hey Diva can you add me to the list too please. Just ordered an Aquaero 6 XT from Aquacomputer, no idea how long it will be till they get more ready though









Also just finished reading through the thread, thanks to everyone for all the info and creative workarounds


----------



## ozzy1925

i think @Shoggy is on vacation havent seen him lately


----------



## Buzz247

i recall seeing a bit in the thread about getting HWMon to play nice with AQsuite. Be danged if I can find it. AQ5 is not reading the HWMon info - suggestions? Or is AIDA64 the only option?


----------



## WiLd FyeR

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Buzz247*
> 
> i recall seeing a bit in the thread about getting HWMon to play nice with AQsuite. Be danged if I can find it. AQ5 is not reading the HWMon info - suggestions? Or is AIDA64 the only option?


What temp you trying to get? Can you provide a screen shot of the screen you set up the temp on.


----------



## Buzz247

on my build pc and not linked to network atm. On the AQ sensor page, under software sensors. Software sensor 1, change to enabled, check 'use sensor with Aquacomputer service', click button for 'select data source' and no sources are listed. Trying to get cores and package temp readings to use on page layout


----------



## WiLd FyeR

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Buzz247*
> 
> on my build pc and not linked to network atm. On the AQ sensor page, under software sensors. Software sensor 1, change to enabled, check 'use sensor with Aquacomputer service', click button for 'select data source' and no sources are listed. Trying to get cores and package temp readings to use on page layout


Try using Open Hardware Monitor. http://openhardwaremonitor.org/


----------



## M3TAl

I realize this is the Aquaero club but this is likely the easiest place to find people with on hands experience with the 'High Flow' Flow Sensore (the cheaper 3 pin version).

Does anyone know if the 3 pin version (assuming this is the same as a motherboard fan header?) of the flow sensor will output a value when connected to a motherboard header, viewable in a monitoring program such as HWiNFO? The raw pulse rate?

So lets say in theory my flow was 1 LPM, would the monitoring software show a value of 169 RPM (their specs state 169 pulses per liter) or will it not show anything? Does the meter only work with various controllers/displays and not on a motherboard header?

If no one knows and someone is using one of these flow sensors could you please, please hook it up to a mobo header and see what happens?


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> I realize this is the Aquaero club but this is likely the easiest place to find people with on hands experience with the 'High Flow' Flow Sensore (the cheaper 3 pin version).
> 
> Does anyone know if the 3 pin version (assuming this is the same as a motherboard fan header?) of the flow sensor will output a value when connected to a motherboard header, viewable in a monitoring program such as HWiNFO? The raw pulse rate?
> 
> So lets say in theory my flow was 1 LPM, would the monitoring software show a value of 169 RPM (their specs state 169 pulses per liter) or will it not show anything? Does the meter only work with various controllers/displays and not on a motherboard header?
> 
> If no one knows and someone is using one of these flow sensors could you please, please hook it up to a mobo header and see what happens?


here we go:

http://martinsliquidlab.org/2012/01/21/aquacomputer-water-high-flow-sensor-meter/6/

the short answer is yes.


----------



## M3TAl

Thank you! Hadn't yet seen Martin's testing, duh should of checked there. This makes life easy!

I asked maybe 3-4 days ago for a feature request on the HWiNFO forums and the author already posted a beta with the feature! In the latest HWiNFO beta you can now in real time modify sensor values and change units. This means you can automatically convert the RPM reading to GPM or LPM and display it in the OSD. Probably set warning alarms if flow reaches below a certain point too.

Edit: Just for a proof of concept for what I probably explained very poorly... Here is my rad fan RPM's (usually ~800 RPM) using Martin's RPM to GPM conversion for the Aquacomputer High Flow Sensor. Now flow can be viewed while in game with OSD







.


----------



## fast_fate

That is flow-tastic








Going slightly off topic, But for Koolance flow meter owners, this is now a way to alter calibration values.
and have an onscreen display of flow reading of your choice LPM, GPH, what-ever.
There may have been a way before that I wasn't aware of.
I just renamed mine to flow meter and set to display LPM








I think this is








Great work M3TAl








+1


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> Thank you! Hadn't yet seen Martin's testing, duh should of checked there. This makes life easy!
> 
> I asked maybe 3-4 days ago for a feature request on the HWiNFO forums and the author already posted a beta with the feature! In the latest HWiNFO beta you can now in real time modify sensor values and change units. This means you can automatically convert the RPM reading to GPM or LPM and display it in the OSD. Probably set warning alarms if flow reaches below a certain point too.
> 
> Edit: Just for a proof of concept for what I probably explained very poorly... Here is my rad fan RPM's (usually ~800 RPM) using Martin's RPM to GPM conversion for the Aquacomputer High Flow Sensor. Now flow can be viewed while in game with OSD
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fast_fate*
> 
> That is flow-tastic
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Going slightly off topic, But for Koolance flow meter owners, this is now a way to alter calibration values.
> and have an onscreen display of flow reading of your choice LPM, GPH, what-ever.
> There may have been a way before that I wasn't aware of.
> I just renamed mine to flow meter and set to display LPM
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I think this is
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Great work M3TAl
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> +1


Never mind, another cup of coffee and I understood what you were showing.

2.66GPM had me going for a moment.

Interesting look at the math though . . . . 800 rpm means that there were 26.6 pulses per second created by the fan on the tach line.

Darlene


----------



## IT Diva

On another note, having had a cup of coffee, does anyone have a link to the latest and greatest version of Aquasuite?

I'mma derp this morning . . .







Link is on the first page.

Anyway,

My new A6 for my chiller build just came in from PPCs, and it is indeed a newer version with the 47 ohm resistors.

Looks like the main US E-tailers have depleted their old stock and we're all getting the new version now.

I need to put the latest Aquasuite on the little test rig I have set up for the Ascendacy so I can determine just how many of the Corsair fans the new A6 version can handle natively, now that I have one to test with.

It will be nice to have some definitive answer to that question.

Thanks in advance,

Darlene


----------



## Gabrielzm

Great Metal. Well done mate. This change in HWINfo is really interesting and useful. It is an easy way to convert and display rpm values from any flow sensor I think in flow measurement to be displayed by hwinfo and even incorporated in the Aquasuite if you want.

+1


----------



## M3TAl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Great Metal. Well done mate. This change in HWINfo is really interesting and useful. It is an easy way to convert and display rpm values from any flow sensor I think in flow measurement to be displayed by hwinfo and even incorporated in the Aquasuite if you want.
> 
> +1


If there is any other cool things you want HWiNFO to do just ask for it on their forum. 2-day turn around







. Asked on the 12th, beta on the 14th.


----------



## IT Diva

So I spent most of the day dickin' with my little testbed machine, getting updates and getting Aquasuite running . . . . .

I tested the new A6 with the corsair fans, and it is much better than before.

Here's what I got;

You need to set min power at 1% and tick the "hold min power" check box, or the fans run fast by default if they have a 0% PWM signal

1 fan will run at a min speed of ~740 rpm

Up to 11 fans could be slowed down to ~860 rpm, . . . . 10 fans was a bit more responsive to percentage changes and I would consider that the real limit.

As soon as I added a 12th fan, the low speed control totally went away, and the lowest they would run was ~1500+ rpm

13 fans, and they all ran close to max

It looks like the most you could possibly run relatively reliably, would be a 360 and a 240 rad in P-P on 1 channel.

It's still not as capable as the Diva 'Dapter PCB mod, but at least it's acceptable.

I'd give it a thumbs up for a P-P fan setup on anything up to a 480 sized rad.

Darlene


----------



## VSG

Nice! Where did you get the new version from? I am considering getting another but old or new is irrelevant to me now thanks to you


----------



## Buzz247

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiLd FyeR*
> 
> Try using Open Hardware Monitor. http://openhardwaremonitor.org/


worked much better than HWMon - ty, forgot about this lovely linux based one


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Nice! Where did you get the new version from? I am considering getting another but old or new is irrelevant to me now thanks to you


PPC's.

Nothing beats the Diva 'Dapter, but at least this version is acceptable.

I'll make up a couple of of Swiftech splitter cables, like come with the dual 35X pump, with the D5 mod and see if does an adequate job compared to how spoiled I've become to the 'Dapter pcb.

With plans to run 2 of the dual D2 pump setups in the chiller build, I want to see how well it does without the extra work of stashing the extra pcb in somewhere.

Darlene


----------



## VSG

I am going to closely follow your chiller project, that is exactly what I have been thinking of myself for stage 2 of my build log.


----------



## Kimir

And I'm gonna follow you two with chiller project as I'm very interested in that before going extreme.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Buzz247*
> 
> i recall seeing a bit in the thread about getting HWMon to play nice with AQsuite. Be danged if I can find it. AQ5 is not reading the HWMon info - suggestions? Or is AIDA64 the only option?


mine works fine


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> I am going to closely follow your chiller project, that is exactly what I have been thinking of myself for stage 2 of my build log.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kimir*
> 
> And I'm gonna follow you two with chiller project as I'm very interested in that before going extreme.


I'll start a build log tomorrow, as I spent most of today, after the A6/Corsair fan testing, pulling apart the rig that's going to be the base for the chiller build, and putting the blocks on the mobo.



Darlene


----------



## ngzb

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> So I spent most of the day dickin' with my little testbed machine, getting updates and getting Aquasuite running . . . . .
> 
> I tested the new A6 with the corsair fans, and it is much better than before.
> 
> Here's what I got;
> 
> You need to set min power at 1% and tick the "hold min power" check box, or the fans run fast by default if they have a 0% PWM signal
> 
> 1 fan will run at a min speed of ~740 rpm
> 
> Up to 11 fans could be slowed down to ~860 rpm, . . . . 10 fans was a bit more responsive to percentage changes and I would consider that the real limit.
> 
> As soon as I added a 12th fan, the low speed control totally went away, and the lowest they would run was ~1500+ rpm
> 
> 13 fans, and they all ran close to max
> 
> It looks like the most you could possibly run relatively reliably, would be a 360 and a 240 rad in P-P on 1 channel.
> 
> It's still not as capable as the Diva 'Dapter PCB mod, but at least it's acceptable.
> 
> I'd give it a thumbs up for a P-P fan setup on anything up to a 480 sized rad.
> 
> Darlene


Darlene those 10 fans limit are per channel ?? or all 10 fans together divided by the 4 channels ?

Can i use 8 corsairs per channel ?


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ngzb*
> 
> Darlene those 10 fans limit are per channel ?? or all 10 fans together divided by the 4 channels ?


She's talking about testing done on one channel of the newer revised AQ6's. Hence why she says "_It looks like the most you could possibly run relatively reliably, would be a 360 and a 240 rad in P-P_ [ie:10 fans] _on 1 channel._" With the earlier AQ6's you could only reliably control 4-5 Corsair PWM SP120s on a single channel.


----------



## ngzb

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> She's talking about testing done on one channel of the newer revised AQ6's. Hence why she says "_It looks like the most you could possibly run relatively reliably, would be a 360 and a 240 rad in P-P_ [ie:10 fans] _on 1 channel._" With the earlier AQ6's you could only reliably control 4-5 Corsair PWM SP120s on a single channel.










i missed the part of 1 channel









Thanks m8


----------



## reklaw75

Hi guys,

I just got my Aquaero 6 passive heatsink and wanted to make sure I wasn't incorrectly installing it.
I have put the supplied thermal tape over the areas indicated in the instructions, however with the screws (the 4 to secure heatsink to aq6) is it just a matter of removing the existing 4 screws (that connect the back PCB to the rest of the AQ6) and then using the 4 new ones? It's not immediately clear what to do.

Any help much appreciated.

Bruce


----------



## VSG

Pretty much: http://forums.overclockers.co.uk/showpost.php?p=26752811&postcount=32


----------



## Raul-7

I was debating about purchasing this for my upcoming build. Can I control the DDC pump through the unit directly or must I still use the poweradjust 3?


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *reklaw75*
> 
> Hi guys,
> 
> I just got my Aquaero 6 passive heatsink and wanted to make sure I wasn't incorrectly installing it.
> I have put the supplied thermal tape over the areas indicated in the instructions, however with the screws (the 4 to secure heatsink to aq6) is it just a matter of removing the existing 4 screws (that connect the back PCB to the rest of the AQ6) and then using the 4 new ones? It's not immediately clear what to do.
> 
> Any help much appreciated.
> 
> Bruce


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Pretty much: http://forums.overclockers.co.uk/showpost.php?p=26752811&postcount=32


One thing to watch out for, is that some of the PCB's are coming with the little brown, three leg, component on the side edge, below the molex, sticking up a bit too high.

There was a post some pages back where the guy had damaged that component slightly when he tightened down the heatsink.

Link to that post:
http://www.overclock.net/t/1474470/ocn-aquaero-owners-club/1190#post_22555146

The heatsink has a notched out area on the end for clearance, but you have to test fit the heatsink before you add the thermal pads, and verify that it fits properly . . . . ie: that the heatsink mates with the pcb on that end without any gap at the mating surfaces where the screws go thru.

Mine was hanging up on the little brown component, and would not come flush to the pcb at that end. If I had just tightened the screws, it would have put great pressure on top of that component, and probably cracked / broken its ceramic shell.

To prevent any possible damage, I had to dremel the relief in the heatsink a little, to allow for the extra height of the component, to be sure there was adequate clearance.

Darlene

Here's a pic, . . . . look at the left end center . . . you can see the little brown component I'm referring to, and the added relief to the heatsink.


----------



## Nichismo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Raul-7*
> 
> I was debating about purchasing this for my upcoming build. Can I control the DDC pump through the unit directly or must I still use the poweradjust 3?


It sort of depends on which DDC you have. Im pretty sure that its not mandatory to use a Poweradjust, however its a nice item in relation. The important thing is if you are using a MCP35X or any DDC with a 4 pin molex for power and a 3/4 pin fan RPM header, you need to purchase one of these:

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/15752/bus-310/Aquacomputer_Pump_Connection_Cable_for_Poweradjust_2_and_Aquaero_Series_53053.html?tl=c229s882b200


----------



## VSG

I must have missed that post because I didn't have any issues like this. Does Shoggy know?


----------



## WHIMington

Shoggy said the damage done shouldn't be too much of a problem, even if it fail the unit will at best won't boot up and there "should" not be any further damaged, and will be easily repairable with basic soldiering skill(as long as you can get the correct part, which is a problem for me), so finger crossed, I was quite busy for the pass few months and I do not have time to test the unit for serviceability, but we'll see


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> I must have missed that post because I didn't have any issues like this. Does Shoggy know?


I'm sure he knew about that particular situation, because he told the OP that it shouldn't have caused a problem and that it was OK to go ahead and use it as is.

I'm not so sure about whether it's a common issue, or if it just occurs once in a while.

Either way, if they change the relief on the heatsink so it's relieved for the full thickness of the aluminum, instead of only about 2/3 of the thickness, as I did, it would allow enough clearance in every instance.

The thickness of the thermal pads, even uncompressed just sitting in place, was not quite enough extra room for the little brown component to be safe from contact.

Darlene


----------



## Newtocooling

Does anyone know why my two 6xt work fine on my Asus Formula VI, and then on a random boot both have the Red X going through the usb on Aquasuite? I also have an extra Aquaero showing up that I do not have. I shut down and have to power off my power supply to cut usb power to the two of them, reboot and they then show up. Any suggestions would be appreciated, I don't want to put fan curves and new labels in Aquasuite until I can fix this problem.


----------



## ozzy1925

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> I'm sure he knew about that particular situation, because he told the OP that it shouldn't have caused a problem and that it was OK to go ahead and use it as is.
> 
> I'm not so sure about whether it's a common issue, or if it just occurs once in a while.
> 
> Either way, if they change the relief on the heatsink so it's relieved for the full thickness of the aluminum, instead of only about 2/3 of the thickness, as I did, it would allow enough clearance in every instance.
> 
> The thickness of the thermal pads, even uncompressed just sitting in place, was not quite enough extra room for the little brown component to be safe from contact.
> 
> Darlene


i can only see this brown thing under the heatsink, is that it?


----------



## Ragpad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> I'm sure he knew about that particular situation, because he told the OP that it shouldn't have caused a problem and that it was OK to go ahead and use it as is.
> 
> I'm not so sure about whether it's a common issue, or if it just occurs once in a while.
> 
> Either way, if they change the relief on the heatsink so it's relieved for the full thickness of the aluminum, instead of only about 2/3 of the thickness, as I did, it would allow enough clearance in every instance.
> 
> The thickness of the thermal pads, even uncompressed just sitting in place, was not quite enough extra room for the little brown component to be safe from contact.
> 
> Darlene


Folks:

It is utterly shameful that a German - known for its design excellence, fastidiousness, and obsession with quality - company is relegating its responsibility for a bad design to its users (many of whom are indeed novices and do throw good money at these components).







If I were running Aquacomputer, then I would fix the problem forthwith, rather than saying that it is nothing and that users should run it anyway (after installing all the other liquid-cooling hardware pieces that go along with its installation) and can simply resolder it, if need be. Give me a break!

Thanks to Darlene and other posters - who are much more tolerant of this unmitigated stupidity than I am - I undid my halfway-completed hardware installation (yes, my time is indeed very precious - and I am hard-pressed to find any spare time with all my commitments - perhaps not to Aquacomputer) and noticed that the "three-legged" component appeared to be _just barely_ okay and that the outside legs had basically crumpled toward the center.

At the very least, Aquacomputer should make the buyers aware of this issue - in an "addendum" to the installation instructions - and caution them to slightly bend the outside "legs" (which appears to have fortuitously happened in my case) before the heatsink installation. I just hope that the powers that be at Aquacomputer are reading these posts. What a shame!

Darlene:

What are those aluminum fins that you have atop the heatsink in your picture? Are you using those instead of the waterblock?


----------



## Ragpad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ozzy1925*
> 
> i can only see this brown thing under the heatsink, is that it?


@ozzy1925:

Yes; that is exactly what mine also looks like!


----------



## WiLd FyeR

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ozzy1925*
> 
> i can only see this brown thing under the heatsink, is that it?


Same thing happened to me. WOW!!.. If only I saw this picture before I installed the heat sink.


----------



## ozzy1925

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ragpad*
> 
> @ozzy1925:
> 
> Yes; that is exactly what mine also looks like!


i didnt notice that should the legs stay straight?


----------



## Ragpad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ozzy1925*
> 
> i didnt notice that should the legs stay straight?


@ozzy1925:

Yes; I would suppose that they should stay straight (Darlene and other experienced guys could tell you better than I possibly could), but thankfully, in your case and mine, the legs appeared to have "collapsed" to the center, without fracturing. I wonder why Aquacomputer could not even shorten these legs, as there appears to be more than sufficient length between the component and the PCB?!


----------



## ozzy1925

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ragpad*
> 
> @ozzy1925:
> 
> Yes; I would suppose that they should stay straight (Darlene and other experienced guys could tell you better than I possibly could), but thankfully, in your case and mine, the legs appeared to have "collapsed" to the center, without fracturing. I wonder why Aquacomputer could not even shorten these legs, as there appears to be more than sufficient length between the component and the PCB?!


well, we are lucky then


----------



## Ragpad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ozzy1925*
> 
> well, we are lucky then


@ozzy1925:

Yes, it _appears_ so, at least in my case; I have not started mine up, yet; and I have a long way to go before I reinstall all those components after the chiller installation and this Aquaero!


----------



## WiLd FyeR

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ozzy1925*
> 
> well, we are lucky then


Ohh man.. I agree. $200+ for a paper weight lol.. Well unless you know how to solder.


----------



## Ragpad

Folks:

I have a "stupid" question: Is it possible to set up all the necessary Aquaero parameters (other than the CPU temperature, _etc_.) on say, a laptop, and transfer all those settings to the intended PC? (The intended, final PC is constantly being used for me to muck around with! And, my "bosses" at home will simply slaughter me if I screw up anything on their compters!







) Is there an INI file, or the like, that I should copy and transfer? Thanks in advance!


----------



## hiarc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ragpad*
> 
> Folks:
> 
> I have a "stupid" question: Is it possible to set up all the necessary Aquaero parameters (other than the CPU temperature, _etc_.) on say, a laptop, and transfer all those settings to the intended PC? (The intended, final PC is constantly being used for me to muck around with! And, my "bosses" at home will simply slaughter me if I screw up anything on their compters!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ) Is there an INI file, or the like, that I should copy and transfer? Thanks in advance!


Stuff like fan curves, settings on each fan channel, basically anything under the Aquaero tab is all saved on the Aquaero so you don't even need to transfer any settings as Aquasuite will read off the Aquaero and show the same stuff as it did on your laptop. However you can export the settings (Aquaero tab -> System -> Settings -> Export/Import). I believe this export/import is basically the same thing saved on the Aquaero.

As for the actual settings in Aquasuite (i.e. overview pages, displaying flow in GPM/LPM/etc. in the overview pages), I don't know.


----------



## IT Diva

That is indeed the little brown component that I was referring to.

The outer legs by design, have a little "crimp" in them . . . it lets the robotic parts placement machines put them into the PCBs at a consistent depth, and that they stay there until soldered.

That pic is a bit fuzzy, but the outer leg's crimps look a bit crushed, and the middle leg looks kinda zig-zagged, as though the top of the component has been mashed down by the heatsink pushing on it.

I don't recall this issue with the first A6's that I got when I put the red heatsinks on them.

The aluminum finned bit is the passive heatsink for the A5 series, it is in place of a water block, which isn't really needed on the 6 series. It may offer only a slight advantage, but it can't hurt . . . so I use them.

Darlene


----------



## Ragpad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> 
> 
> That is indeed the little brown component that I was referring to.
> 
> The outer legs by design, have a little "crimp" in them . . . it lets the robotic parts placement machines put them into the PCBs at a consistent depth, and that they stay there until soldered.
> 
> That pic is a bit fuzzy, but the outer leg's crimps look a bit crushed, and the middle leg looks kinda zig-zagged, as though the top of the component has been mashed down by the heatsink pushing on it.
> 
> I don't recall this issue with the first A6's that I got when I put the red heatsinks on them.
> 
> The aluminum finned bit is the passive heatsink for the A5 series, it is in place of a water block, which isn't really needed on the 6 series. It may offer only a slight advantage, but it can't hurt . . . so I use them.
> 
> Darlene


Darlene:

Got it! Thanks!


----------



## Ragpad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hiarc*
> 
> Stuff like fan curves, settings on each fan channel, basically anything under the Aquaero tab is all saved on the Aquaero so you don't even need to transfer any settings as Aquasuite will read off the Aquaero and show the same stuff as it did on your laptop. However you can export the settings (Aquaero tab -> System -> Settings -> Export/Import). I believe this export/import is basically the same thing saved on the Aquaero.
> 
> As for the actual settings in Aquasuite (i.e. overview pages, displaying flow in GPM/LPM/etc. in the overview pages), I don't know.


@hiarc:

Thanks, pal. However, I vaguely recall that once you connect the Aquaero to the PC using the USB, all the settings stored right on the Aquaero panel would be overwritten by the settings written through the Aquasuite 2014 software installed on the PC. Perhaps, I am confused?

What are those "exported" settings saved as? Would you know? If yes, where are the files located?


----------



## hiarc

Unless you change stuff around in Aquasuite, it will not overwrite settings saved on the Aquaero.

As for the exported settings, when you hit export you can choose where to save the file.


----------



## reklaw75

hi IT Diva and Gegegg,

Thanks for the good links and explanations.

IT Diva- Unfortunately I did read your post AFTER i had attached the heatsink and I can see the Brown ceramic is hard up against the heatsink. Do you think it worth detaching and checking for damage on the top of it? The Unit does still work fine (i have turned it on and tested).

Next question for you all and this one may be a little more tricky. I purchased a number of new items to feed my growing Aquero addiction including the discontinued Tubemeter. This SHOULD be a relatively easy item to install however there is a PROBLEM









I want to connect the Tubemeter to the AQ6 via the Aquabus (Low) port as per the manual. I have the 5 pin to 3 pin Aquabus cable. The 5 pin side plugs into the Tubemeter. The problem is that the Tubemeter is supposed to be labeled somewhere on the PCB as to which is Pin 1 (so that i dont put 5v down the Ground...) but isn't! So basically my current belief is that if i plug it in wrong i could damage the tubemeter / the aquero or both. Does anyone have a picture with the same 5 pin Aquabus cable and which way around they plugged it into the Tubemeter? Any help much appreciated.

Bruce


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *reklaw75*
> 
> hi IT Diva and Gegegg,
> 
> Thanks for the good links and explanations.
> 
> IT Diva- Unfortunately I did read your post AFTER i had attached the heatsink and I can see the Brown ceramic is hard up against the heatsink. *Do you think it worth detaching and checking for damage on the top of it? The Unit does still work fine (i have turned it on and tested).
> 
> *Next question for you all and this one may be a little more tricky. I purchased a number of new items to feed my growing Aquero addiction including the discontinued Tubemeter. This SHOULD be a relatively easy item to install however there is a PROBLEM
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I want to connect the Tubemeter to the AQ6 via the Aquabus (Low) port as per the manual. I have the 5 pin to 3 pin Aquabus cable. The 5 pin side plugs into the Tubemeter. The problem is that the Tubemeter is supposed to be labeled somewhere on the PCB as to which is Pin 1 (so that i dont put 5v down the Ground...) but isn't! So basically my current belief is that if i plug it in wrong i could damage the tubemeter / the aquero or both. Does anyone have a picture with the same 5 pin Aquabus cable and which way around they plugged it into the Tubemeter? Any help much appreciated.
> 
> Bruce


Can't help you on the tubemeter question, but I fix stuff now, that has the potential to bite me on the azz later, whenever possible.

That's why I dremelled the heatsink for more clearance and posted about the issue.

Now that's just me, and you may never have any trouble if you leave it alone, but imagine how you'd feel if next month, or next year, it pops. fizzles, and smokes . . . . and you remember this post . .

Darlene


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *reklaw75*
> 
> hi IT Diva and Gegegg,
> 
> Thanks for the good links and explanations.
> 
> IT Diva- Unfortunately I did read your post AFTER i had attached the heatsink and I can see the Brown ceramic is hard up against the heatsink. Do you think it worth detaching and checking for damage on the top of it? The Unit does still work fine (i have turned it on and tested).
> 
> Next question for you all and this one may be a little more tricky. I purchased a number of new items to feed my growing Aquero addiction including the discontinued Tubemeter. This SHOULD be a relatively easy item to install however there is a PROBLEM
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I want to connect the Tubemeter to the AQ6 via the Aquabus (Low) port as per the manual. I have the 5 pin to 3 pin Aquabus cable. The 5 pin side plugs into the Tubemeter. The problem is that the Tubemeter is supposed to be labeled somewhere on the PCB as to which is Pin 1 (so that i dont put 5v down the Ground...) but isn't! So basically my current belief is that if i plug it in wrong i could damage the tubemeter / the aquero or both. Does anyone have a picture with the same 5 pin Aquabus cable and which way around they plugged it into the Tubemeter? Any help much appreciated.
> 
> Bruce


I did use the tubemeter and have some pictures in my old build log (signature below). Let's see here if I can find....Ok could not find the pictures I have but you will notice that the pcb is not uniform below the 5 pins on the head of the tubemeter. Pin 1 is marked on the picture below from Aquacomputer forum:

http://forum.aquacomputer.de/weitere-foren/english-forum/872-aquaero-and-tubemeter-problem/


----------



## Ragpad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hiarc*
> 
> Unless you change stuff around in Aquasuite, it will not overwrite settings saved on the Aquaero.
> 
> As for the exported settings, when you hit export you can choose where to save the file.


@hiarc:

Thanks, pal!


----------



## WiLd FyeR

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Can't help you on the tubemeter question, but I fix stuff now, that has the potential to bite me on the azz later, whenever possible.
> 
> That's why I dremelled the heatsink for more clearance and posted about the issue.
> 
> Now that's just me, and you may never have any trouble if you leave it alone, but imagine how you'd feel if next month, or next year, it pops. fizzles, and smokes . . . . and you remember this post . .
> 
> Darlene


If only I would of known I would of dremelled it down too.. Ahh shucks.. One day it's going to smoke.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ozzy1925*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ragpad*
> 
> @ozzy1925:
> 
> Yes; that is exactly what mine also looks like!
> 
> 
> 
> i didnt notice that should the legs stay straight?
Click to expand...

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ragpad*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> I'm sure he knew about that particular situation, because he told the OP that it shouldn't have caused a problem and that it was OK to go ahead and use it as is.
> 
> I'm not so sure about whether it's a common issue, or if it just occurs once in a while.
> 
> Either way, if they change the relief on the heatsink so it's relieved for the full thickness of the aluminum, instead of only about 2/3 of the thickness, as I did, it would allow enough clearance in every instance.
> 
> The thickness of the thermal pads, even uncompressed just sitting in place, was not quite enough extra room for the little brown component to be safe from contact.
> 
> Darlene
> 
> 
> 
> Folks:
> 
> It is utterly shameful that a German - known for its design excellence, fastidiousness, and obsession with quality - company is relegating its responsibility for a bad design to its users (many of whom are indeed novices and do throw good money at these components).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If I were running Aquacomputer, then I would fix the problem forthwith, rather than saying that it is nothing and that users should run it anyway (after installing all the other liquid-cooling hardware pieces that go along with its installation) and can simply resolder it, if need be. Give me a break!
> 
> Thanks to Darlene and other posters - who are much more tolerant of this unmitigated stupidity than I am - I undid my halfway-completed hardware installation (yes, my time is indeed very precious - and I am hard-pressed to find any spare time with all my commitments - perhaps not to Aquacomputer) and noticed that the "three-legged" component appeared to be _just barely_ okay and that the outside legs had basically crumpled toward the center.
> 
> At the very least, Aquacomputer should make the buyers aware of this issue - in an "addendum" to the installation instructions - and caution them to slightly bend the outside "legs" (which appears to have fortuitously happened in my case) before the heatsink installation. I just hope that the powers that be at Aquacomputer are reading these posts. What a shame!
> 
> Darlene:
> 
> What are those aluminum fins that you have atop the heatsink in your picture? Are you using those instead of the waterblock?
Click to expand...

personally i think you are overreacting. life happens, i am sure they will fix it

as to legs bending it should be fine assuming they dont touch anything


----------



## Ragpad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> personally i think you are overreacting. life happens, i am sure they will fix it
> 
> as to legs bending it should be fine assuming they dont touch anything


@Mega Man:

You may be right; and yes, "it" happens, but it is Aquacomputer's lackadaisical attitude that galls me.


----------



## WiLd FyeR

Just need to add a disclaimer when installing the heat sink, it will bend the "ORANGE THINGY" if installed.


----------



## WHIMington

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ragpad*
> 
> @Mega Man:
> 
> You may be right; and yes, "it" happens, but it is Aquacomputer's lackadaisical attitude that galls me.


Its quite Hyper reacting to call that lackadaisical attitude, because if it is, Boeing, Airbus and almost all aircraft manufacturer is lackadaisical because yeah, ****s happens.


----------



## Ragpad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WHIMington*
> 
> Its quite Hyper reacting to call that lackadaisical attitude, because if it is, Boeing, Airbus and almost all aircraft manufacturer is lackadaisical because yeah, ****s happens.


@WHIMington: (Sorry, I screwed up the handle before the edit.)

I am afraid that you have misunderstood what I said. It is _not_ that "it" happens, but that the "lackadaisical attitude" with which this issue is being handled. _Verbum sapienti_ (meant for Aquacomputer)!


----------



## Ragpad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiLd FyeR*
> 
> Just need to add a disclaimer when installing the heat sink, it will bend the "ORANGE THINGY" if installed.


@WiLd FyeR:

Yes, that will be a good start.


----------



## CasualCat

Please add me to the list for a 5LT

Also is this still a known issue: "PWM Version of the D5 not controllable with the A6" and are there details? Thanks.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CasualCat*
> 
> Please add me to the list for a 5LT
> 
> Also is this still a known issue: "PWM Version of the D5 not controllable with the A6" and are there details? Thanks.


It is a issue and is true for all versions of the Aquaero. Plenty of details try to search the thread for posts regarding pwm in d5 by itdiva and shoggy.


----------



## CasualCat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> It is a issue and is true for all versions of the Aquaero. Plenty of details try to search the thread for posts regarding pwm in d5 by itdiva and shoggy.


I've got one working with a 5LT with zero mods. I can change/adjust it and see changes in the flow rate. I'll have to search then.

ETA: Just double checked it too. Dropped it to 20% and it even triggered my flow alarm event.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CasualCat*
> 
> I've got one working with a 5LT with zero mods. I can change/adjust it and see changes in the flow rate. I'll have to search then.
> 
> ETA: Just double checked it too. Dropped it to 20% and it even triggered my flow alarm event.


Here we go mate:

http://www.overclock.net/t/1423333/aquacomputer-aquaero-6/1900#post_21946385

and here:

http://www.overclock.net/t/1474470/ocn-aquaero-owners-club/60#post_21956489

Have this is my email due to a conversation with Shoggy. Yeah, I would be surprised if you manage to control the d5 properly using the 5 lt...


----------



## WiLd FyeR

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WHIMington*
> 
> Guys I ran into a big problem, I just received my red heat sink and black front panel from PPCS today, the panel is very slightly bent but can be straighten carefully, no big deal, however when I install the heat sink, I wasn't paying too much attention when tightening the screws, and then I heard a cracking noise, I removed the heat sinks for an inspections and find that the left hand side what I believed to be a bright brown capacitor have chipped
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It seems that the capacitor is being soldered too high and the cutouts of the heat sink did not clear the capacitor enough. Is the unit still operational?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Edit: Both the mounting plate and the capacitor itself is already slightly bent outwards to clear of the heat sink when it comes, but clearly the angle is far from enough


I guess this post on 07/14/14 was kinda over looked. I even missed it, darn..


----------



## CasualCat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Here we go mate:
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1423333/aquacomputer-aquaero-6/1900#post_21946385
> 
> and here:
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1474470/ocn-aquaero-owners-club/60#post_21956489
> 
> Have this is my email due to a conversation with Shoggy. Yeah, I would be surprised if you manage to control the d5 properly using the 5 lt...


Well that is interesting; if I'm reading that correctly I should need to add 5V to get the pump to work? It is clearly working though, but I'm not even remotely technical enough to know why:


----------



## Gabrielzm

@CasualCat My own experience with the d5 PWM and Aquaero 6 is yes you can control for a while (let's say around one minute) but then suddenly all went nuts and you loose the capability of control the pump. Can you confirm that if you leave the pump at say 30 or 25% the pump stay there without going crazy? If so I have no idea why you are able to control it...Is the d5 PWM new? Would it be possible that Swiftech have worked silently to work around the PWM problem with Laing? Is the problem only in the AQ 6? I always thought applies to all Aquaero versions...


----------



## CasualCat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> @CasualCat My own experience with the d5 PWM and Aquaero 6 is yes you can control for a while (let's say around one minute) but then suddenly all went nuts and you loose the capability of control the pump. Can you confirm that if you leave the pump at say 30 or 25% the pump stay there without going crazy? If so I have no idea why you are able to control it...Is the d5 PWM new? Would it be possible that Swiftech have worked silently to work around the PWM problem with Laing? Is the problem only in the AQ 6? I always thought applies to all Aquaero versions...


I'd rather not run it at that low of a percentage for extended time because it cuts my flow too low and because the alarm makes the dog go nuts (though I supposed I could adjust the alarm). How long is long enough and is ~40% acceptable?

The D5 was purchased earlier this year, but the housing appears to have a mfr date of 20130627.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CasualCat*
> 
> I'd rather not run it at that low of a percentage for extended time because it cuts my flow too low and because the alarm makes the dog go nuts (though I supposed I could adjust the alarm). How long is long enough and is ~40% acceptable?
> 
> The D5 was purchased earlier this year, but the housing appears to have a mfr date of 20130627.


yep I think 40% or 50% would do it. There goes the hopeful theory that the D5 PWM was re-worked....


----------



## CasualCat

Did 4mins @ 40%. It held stable the entire time.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Well I am starting to suspect I am wrong and the PWM d5 problem only applies to the aq6 then. Can anyone confirm this? Is the 5 lt capable of controlling the d5 pwm?


----------



## Raul-7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nichismo*
> 
> It sort of depends on which DDC you have. Im pretty sure that its not mandatory to use a Poweradjust, however its a nice item in relation. The important thing is if you are using a MCP35X or any DDC with a 4 pin molex for power and a 3/4 pin fan RPM header, you need to purchase one of these:
> 
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/15752/bus-310/Aquacomputer_Pump_Connection_Cable_for_Poweradjust_2_and_Aquaero_Series_53053.html?tl=c229s882b200


So all I need is that cable to control the pump, even though my DDC has no PWM wire?


----------



## CasualCat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Well I am starting to suspect I am wrong and the PWM d5 problem only applies to the aq6 then. Can anyone confirm this? Is the 5 lt capable of controlling the d5 pwm?


I think my follow up question would then be why can't the aq6 if it is supposed to be a problem with the pump itself?


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CasualCat*
> 
> I think my follow up question would then be why can't the aq6 if it is supposed to be a problem with the pump itself?


That is exactly why I told you previously that this applies to all Aquaero models good sir and you are the one that are showing some evidence otherwise...It does not make sense does it? Let's wait some others to chime in here (like @IT Diva) since now I am lost...


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Well I am starting to suspect I am wrong and the PWM d5 problem only applies to the aq6 then. Can anyone confirm this? Is the 5 lt capable of controlling the d5 pwm?


The 5LT may be a bit unique, . . . we'll need Shoogy to tell us for sure.

When you set it to be a slave, it looses its PWM capability all together, . . . . it may for some reason have been made with an internal pull up, where the 5 and 6, Pro and XT do not.

Darlene


----------



## CasualCat

@IT Diva Can I also be added to the owners club please? Thanks.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Thanks IT Diva. Well I think is time to call



@shoggy.

Can you clarify to us about the 5 lt been able or not to control the d5 pwm?


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CasualCat*
> 
> @IT Diva Can I also be added to the owners club please? Thanks.


Done


----------



## mandrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Well I am starting to suspect I am wrong and the PWM d5 problem only applies to the aq6 then. Can anyone confirm this? Is the 5 lt capable of controlling the d5 pwm?


Yes, any of the AQ5's can control pwm pumps on the #4 fan header. I currently run 2xD5 pwm pumps on a AQ5 Pro. There is no difference in basic functions on any of the AQ5 series controllers. That is, if the LT is used independently and not as a slave, I don't know about that.


----------



## CasualCat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Done


Woohoo Thanks!


----------



## Mega Man

@WHIMington

yea that is not comparing apples to oranges









lets see the difference in cost/markup on a airplane/or anything else any one of the companies makes vs the AQ.

it really should be ~ 500 and i dont mind taking care of a few minor flaws esp considering how much DIY and at your own risk you are when watercooling

one your life depends on , the other only monies.

i would be willing to say if you even think comparing the 2 is relevant you need to rethink your priorities

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Raul-7*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Nichismo*
> 
> It sort of depends on which DDC you have. Im pretty sure that its not mandatory to use a Poweradjust, however its a nice item in relation. The important thing is if you are using a MCP35X or any DDC with a 4 pin molex for power and a 3/4 pin fan RPM header, you need to purchase one of these:
> 
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/15752/bus-310/Aquacomputer_Pump_Connection_Cable_for_Poweradjust_2_and_Aquaero_Series_53053.html?tl=c229s882b200
> 
> 
> 
> So all I need is that cable to control the pump, even though my DDC has no PWM wire?
Click to expand...

that 3rd wire is just to report rpm but yes
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Well I am starting to suspect I am wrong and the PWM d5 problem only applies to the aq6 then. Can anyone confirm this? Is the 5 lt capable of controlling the d5 pwm?
> 
> 
> 
> The 5LT may be a bit unique, . . . we'll need Shoogy to tell us for sure.
> 
> When you set it to be a slave, it looses its PWM capability all together, . . . . it may for some reason have been made with an internal pull up, where the 5 and 6, Pro and XT do not.
> 
> Darlene
Click to expand...

no they are all the same board, you can acctually turn a 5lt into pro/xp, just by adding the screen. and updating the firmware.


----------



## Nichismo

how many of you guys actually use the keyboard and mouse on the remote?

Mine dont seem to be working properly, More specifically the mousepad


----------



## Mega Man

One tap moves it a few pixels. You can customize how much.

I have used it and will use it for my htpc


----------



## Nichismo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> One tap moves it a few pixels. You can customize how much.
> 
> I have used it and will use it for my htpc


really? how? I must have missed it


----------



## chino1974

Hey guys just picked up a new Aquaero 6 XT last night!!! It took a bit of wheeling and dealing to get a trade going with a friend and have him order it for me. Plus a 3 hour drive to his house to pick it up because of performance-pcs not allowing you to pay with a credit card and have items shipped to a different address. But that is understandable they have to protect themselves as well. Anyways I have a quick question. I just opened the box this morning and found the screen cover fell off the controller in shipping. I just grabbed it and stuck it back in place. The glue it comes with is holding in place just fine now. My question is would that effect the touch controls at all? I would hope to know before I install it just to save some time installing if I have to send it back. Thanks in advance to anyone who can help me with this question.

P.S. ITDiva can you please add me to the group now? Pics will be coming in as soon as I verify the controller is ok and install it into my rig.

P.S.S. I am coming from a Lamptron CW611. Is there anyone here that has uused both the CW611 and Aquaero 6 XT the can tell me if the upgrade was really a good one? Or did I just satisfy my spoiled side ? Lol!!


----------



## WHIMington

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> @WHIMington
> 
> yea that is not comparing apples to oranges
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> lets see the difference in cost/markup on a airplane/or anything else any one of the companies makes vs the AQ.
> 
> it really should be ~ 500 and i dont mind taking care of a few minor flaws esp considering how much DIY and at your own risk you are when watercooling
> 
> one your life depends on , the other only monies.
> 
> i would be willing to say if you even think comparing the 2 is relevant you need to rethink your priorities


True, it not a comparison, it is just a fact that even billion dollars jets have design flaws and problems that engineers designed the rust buckets have not foreseen and ended up either damaging key component or having compatibility problems, this kinds of heck ups happens all the time, and from a user point of view it surely sucks(remember, I am the one who were affected), but thats why customer service exists, and calling it lackadaisical? You may have problem understand how engineering works.


----------



## Kimir

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nichismo*
> 
> really? how? I must have missed it


Same here, slow as hell. I'm interested in how to speed it up as well!


----------



## pathfindercod

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chino1974*
> 
> Hey guys just picked up a new Aquaero 6 XT last night!!! It took a bit of wheeling and dealing to get a trade going with a friend and have him order it for me. Plus a 3 hour drive to his house to pick it up because of performance-pcs not allowing you to pay with a credit card and have items shipped to a different address. But that is understandable they have to protect themselves as well. Anyways I have a quick question. I just opened the box this morning and found the screen cover fell off the controller in shipping. I just grabbed it and stuck it back in place. The glue it comes with is holding in place just fine now. My question is would that effect the touch controls at all? I would hope to know before I install it just to save some time installing if I have to send it back. Thanks in advance to anyone who can help me with this question.
> 
> P.S. ITDiva can you please add me to the group now? Pics will be coming in as soon as I verify the controller is ok and install it into my rig.
> 
> P.S.S. I am coming from a Lamptron CW611. Is there anyone here that has uused both the CW611 and Aquaero 6 XT the can tell me if the upgrade was really a good one? Or did I just satisfy my spoiled side ? Lol!!


I order most of my stuff from PPCS. I use my home addy for billing but ship to my office all the time. Never have had a issue.


----------



## Nichismo

hey guys, would this work with connecting an MCP35x to a poweradjust?

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/19352/cab-1481/Akasa_3-pin_to_4-pin_Adapter_w_RPM_Monitoring_C-CABLE-ADPT.html

I was going to buy the Aquacomputer branded one, but Frozencpu doesnt offer a sleeving option for that one as they do with this.


----------



## WiLd FyeR

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chino1974*
> 
> Hey guys just picked up a new Aquaero 6 XT last night!!! It took a bit of wheeling and dealing to get a trade going with a friend and have him order it for me. Plus a 3 hour drive to his house to pick it up because of performance-pcs not allowing you to pay with a credit card and have items shipped to a different address. But that is understandable they have to protect themselves as well. Anyways I have a quick question. I just opened the box this morning and found the screen cover fell off the controller in shipping. I just grabbed it and stuck it back in place. The glue it comes with is holding in place just fine now. My question is would that effect the touch controls at all? I would hope to know before I install it just to save some time installing if I have to send it back. Thanks in advance to anyone who can help me with this question.
> 
> P.S. ITDiva can you please add me to the group now? Pics will be coming in as soon as I verify the controller is ok and install it into my rig.
> 
> P.S.S. I am coming from a Lamptron CW611. Is there anyone here that has uused both the CW611 and Aquaero 6 XT the can tell me if the upgrade was really a good one? Or did I just satisfy my spoiled side ? Lol!!


touch screen will be fine, I had the same issue.


----------



## ozzy1925

the corsair fan issue is only with sp120 pwm ?Af fans work flawless with 6xt?


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mandrix*
> 
> Yes, any of the AQ5's can control pwm pumps on the #4 fan header. I currently run 2xD5 pwm pumps on a AQ5 Pro. There is no difference in basic functions on any of the AQ5 series controllers. That is, if the LT is used independently and not as a slave, I don't know about that.


Ok mate, but then the question is why Aquacomputer change the PWM on the AQ6?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chino1974*
> 
> Hey guys just picked up a new Aquaero 6 XT last night!!! It took a bit of wheeling and dealing to get a trade going with a friend and have him order it for me. Plus a 3 hour drive to his house to pick it up because of performance-pcs not allowing you to pay with a credit card and have items shipped to a different address. But that is understandable they have to protect themselves as well. Anyways I have a quick question. I just opened the box this morning and found the screen cover fell off the controller in shipping. I just grabbed it and stuck it back in place. The glue it comes with is holding in place just fine now. My question is would that effect the touch controls at all? I would hope to know before I install it just to save some time installing if I have to send it back. Thanks in advance to anyone who can help me with this question.
> 
> P.S. ITDiva can you please add me to the group now? Pics will be coming in as soon as I verify the controller is ok and install it into my rig.
> 
> P.S.S. I am coming from a Lamptron CW611. Is there anyone here that has uused both the CW611 and Aquaero 6 XT the can tell me if the upgrade was really a good one? Or did I just satisfy my spoiled side ? Lol!!


came from the same path and believe me: worth every penny.


----------



## mandrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Ok mate, but then the question is why Aquacomputer change the PWM on the AQ6?
> came from the same path and believe me: worth every penny.


There have been posts by Shoggy about the PWM functions, but I don't know specifically what they changed. I don't have any AQ6 devices, just 3 AQ5's, all of which the pwm functions work.


----------



## Barefooter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chino1974*
> 
> Hey guys just picked up a new Aquaero 6 XT last night!!! It took a bit of wheeling and dealing to get a trade going with a friend and have him order it for me. Plus a 3 hour drive to his house to pick it up because of performance-pcs not allowing you to pay with a credit card and have items shipped to a different address. But that is understandable they have to protect themselves as well. Anyways I have a quick question. I just opened the box this morning and found the screen cover fell off the controller in shipping. I just grabbed it and stuck it back in place. The glue it comes with is holding in place just fine now. My question is would that effect the touch controls at all? I would hope to know before I install it just to save some time installing if I have to send it back. Thanks in advance to anyone who can help me with this question.
> 
> P.S. ITDiva can you please add me to the group now? Pics will be coming in as soon as I verify the controller is ok and install it into my rig.
> 
> P.S.S. I am coming from a Lamptron CW611. Is there anyone here that has uused both the CW611 and Aquaero 6 XT the can tell me if the upgrade was really a good one? Or did I just satisfy my spoiled side ? Lol!!


I had the same issue with them not wanting to ship to my work address. I called my credit card company and added my work address, now I can just order on the web and they ship to my work address no problem.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chino1974*
> 
> Hey guys just picked up a new Aquaero 6 XT last night!!! It took a bit of wheeling and dealing to get a trade going with a friend and have him order it for me. Plus a 3 hour drive to his house to pick it up because of performance-pcs not allowing you to pay with a credit card and have items shipped to a different address. But that is understandable they have to protect themselves as well. Anyways I have a quick question. I just opened the box this morning and found the screen cover fell off the controller in shipping. I just grabbed it and stuck it back in place. The glue it comes with is holding in place just fine now. My question is would that effect the touch controls at all? I would hope to know before I install it just to save some time installing if I have to send it back. Thanks in advance to anyone who can help me with this question.
> 
> P.S*. ITDiva can you please add me to the group now? Pics will be coming in as soon as I verify the controller is ok and install it into my rig.
> *
> P.S.S. I am coming from a Lamptron CW611. Is there anyone here that has uused both the CW611 and Aquaero 6 XT the can tell me if the upgrade was really a good one? Or did I just satisfy my spoiled side ? Lol!!


I dunno Angel, . . . . we got at least a few minimum standards for club members









Nah, you're added . . .

Welcome aboard.

Darlene


----------



## chino1974

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pathfindercod*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *chino1974*
> 
> Hey guys just picked up a new Aquaero 6 XT last night!!! It took a bit of wheeling and dealing to get a trade going with a friend and have him order it for me. Plus a 3 hour drive to his house to pick it up because of performance-pcs not allowing you to pay with a credit card and have items shipped to a different address. But that is understandable they have to protect themselves as well. Anyways I have a quick question. I just opened the box this morning and found the screen cover fell off the controller in shipping. I just grabbed it and stuck it back in place. The glue it comes with is holding in place just fine now. My question is would that effect the touch controls at all? I would hope to know before I install it just to save some time installing if I have to send it back. Thanks in advance to anyone who can help me with this question.
> 
> P.S. ITDiva can you please add me to the group now? Pics will be coming in as soon as I verify the controller is ok and install it into my rig.
> 
> P.S.S. I am coming from a Lamptron CW611. Is there anyone here that has uused both the CW611 and Aquaero 6 XT the can tell me if the upgrade was really a good one? Or did I just satisfy my spoiled side ? Lol!!
> 
> 
> 
> I order most of my stuff from PPCS. I use my home addy for billing but ship to my office all the time. Never have had a issue.
Click to expand...

I think the difference is you order with a credit card in your name. So the name on both the card paying and shipping address are the same. My issue was my friend ordered it and paid with his card. He tried shipping it to my address with my name of course. I guess for safety reasons the names have to be the same to be able to do that. I have had tons of stuff ordered by other people from frozencpu and shipped to me with no issues. But when I think of it I think those time paypal was used which might also be why they let it go. Either way I was able to get it which is fine. I fully understand a company having to protect their end.

ITDiva thank you very much. Maybe I can back into the swing of things around again. I'm sure there's alot for me to learn again from you.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kimir*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Nichismo*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> One tap moves it a few pixels. You can customize how much.
> 
> I have used it and will use it for my htpc
> 
> 
> 
> really? how? I must have missed it
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Same here, slow as hell. I'm interested in how to speed it up as well!
Click to expand...

idr atm my screen is dead ( my fault ) but iirc it is done on the aq

second thought looks like i am wrong, did you put it into the PC keyboard mode

http://aquacomputer.de/handbuecher.html?file=tl_files/aquacomputer/downloads/manuals/aquaero_5_6_en_2014_04_14.pdf

page 15, 20-21, maybe further i stopped reading








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WHIMington*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> @WHIMington
> 
> yea that is not comparing apples to oranges
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> lets see the difference in cost/markup on a airplane/or anything else any one of the companies makes vs the AQ.
> 
> it really should be ~ 500 and i dont mind taking care of a few minor flaws esp considering how much DIY and at your own risk you are when watercooling
> 
> one your life depends on , the other only monies.
> 
> i would be willing to say if you even think comparing the 2 is relevant you need to rethink your priorities
> 
> 
> 
> True, it not a comparison, it is just a fact that even billion dollars jets have design flaws and problems that engineers designed the rust buckets have not foreseen and ended up either damaging key component or having compatibility problems, this kinds of heck ups happens all the time, and from a user point of view it surely sucks(remember, I am the one who were affected), but thats why customer service exists, and calling it lackadaisical? You may have problem understand how engineering works.
Click to expand...

no i dont, but you seem to forget that his native language is not English and how much can get lost in the translation, what i have seen also is aqs performance over the last several years ( been lurking a long time over an aq4/5 ) and i have seen the changes, have you even thought to not approach shoggy but post in the aq forums ?


----------



## WHIMington

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> no i dont, but you seem to forget that his native language is not English and how much can get lost in the translation, what i have seen also is aqs performance over the last several years ( been lurking a long time over an aq4/5 ) and i have seen the changes, have you even thought to not approach shoggy but post in the aq forums ?


He already responded to my problem, If the unit still fail(not sure at this point because I am still finding proper way to seal the damaged part on the brown thing so that even if it explode it will not be a total loss) I will contact Shoggy to send me replacement parts to do the repair myself.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WHIMington*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> no i dont, but you seem to forget that his native language is not English and how much can get lost in the translation, what i have seen also is aqs performance over the last several years ( been lurking a long time over an aq4/5 ) and i have seen the changes, have you even thought to not approach shoggy but post in the aq forums ?
> 
> 
> 
> He already responded to my problem, If the unit still fail(not sure at this point because I am still finding proper way to seal the damaged part on the brown thing so that even if it explode it will not be a total loss) I will contact Shoggy to send me replacement parts to do the repair myself.
Click to expand...

Just put a dab of clear nail polish on the chipped areas it to keep out any moisture and keep it sealed from the atmosphere. Maybe give the area a once over with a fine nail file of very fine sandpaper to promote good adhesion.

Worst case scenario, if it blows up because it internally shorted, it won't really hurt anything else, as the heatsink segregates it from the rest of the components.

I'd dremel the relief on the heatsink though, so it has plenty of clearance.

Darlene


----------



## XEKong

Hello,

I purchased my Aquaero 6 Pro about 6 months ago. Everything has been working great so far except non PWM fans.

If I connect a 3 pin fan to one of the 4 pin headers, should it run at full speed until I select voltage control?

I have tried 4 different brands of 3 pin fans on my Aquaero 6 Pro and it will not spin them up. I have even set it for voltage control and 100% minimum speed along with a 100% start boost and can not get it spin up the fan.

I have 6 Corsair fans on splitter blocks, and moved the headers they were connected too and they still ran just fine. Those blocks are powered, so that may be the difference.

Any ideas?


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *XEKong*
> 
> Hello,
> 
> I purchased my Aquaero 6 Pro about 6 months ago. Everything has been working great so far except non PWM fans.
> 
> If I connect a 3 pin fan to one of the 4 pin headers, should it run at full speed until I select voltage control?
> 
> I have tried 4 different brands of 3 pin fans on my Aquaero 6 Pro and it will not spin them up. I have even set it for voltage control and 100% minimum speed along with a 100% start boost and can not get it spin up the fan.
> 
> I have 6 Corsair fans on splitter blocks, and moved the headers they were connected too and they still ran just fine. Those blocks are powered, so that may be the difference.
> 
> Any ideas?


I am not sure what you are describing XEKong. What is the problem exactly? If you connect a 3 pin fan to the aquaero and the Aquaero header is selected to voltage control you should be able to control it by changing the voltage supplied to the fan. Is that the problem?


----------



## XEKong

I connected it, and I did select voltage control, but the fan will not run. I set both min and max to 100% with no luck.


----------



## valvehead

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *XEKong*
> 
> I connected it, and I did select voltage control, but the fan will not run. I set both min and max to 100% with no luck.


That sets the range of control of the fans. You also need to assign the fans to a controller (along with a data source):



For a quick check, you could assign the fans to a "Preset value" controller to verify that your fans are working.

In addition to the max and min settings on the Fan tab, you should also consider setting two other options:


"Hold minimum power" will keep the fans running even if the controller drops below the minimum. Otherwise the fans will shut off if the data source for the controller drops below the minimum setting.
"Use start boost" can be used to set a startup power/voltage and duration when turning on the fans. Some fans need considerably more voltage to start than to run, so this setting helps to ensure that the fans will start spinning.



I'm using PWM, but the same principle applies to voltage-controlled fans.

Let us know if you have any further questions. The Aqauero has a bit of a steep learning curve.


----------



## Party3an

Hi IT Diva,

Im in the club?









Aquaero 6 PRO unboxing, Front Face plate change, passive cooling plate installation and Real Time clock module installation guide.

Best Regards


----------



## CaliLife17

Hey Guys, I am starting to piece together a new X99 WC build (Just starting out on it) I plan on getting an Aquaero 6 XT from PPCS to control 16 fans in Push/Pull on 2 60mm 480 Rads (UT60 or XSPC V3). I originally was going to get Noiseblocker PLPS PWM fans (run 8 fans per channel using a swiftech PWM splitter Molex powered), but now it seems that Aquaero has solved the problem with the SP120 PWM fans to allow more than 4-5 per channel.
Just wanted to confirm that i should have no problem Running 8 SP120 PWM QE fans per channel using the swiftech splitter and the Aquaero 6 XT. I will probably be running these in the lower RPM area most of the time so want to make sure they will work.

Also how would I be able to confirm that the Aquaero 6 XT that i do get, is the newer version?

Thanks


----------



## mbreslin

I purchased mine from frozencpu and it was the newer version. Using that swiftech 8-way splitter I was able to control 8 sp120 high performance editions with no problems.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CaliLife17*
> 
> Hey Guys, I am starting to piece together a new X99 WC build (Just starting out on it) I plan on getting an Aquaero 6 XT from PPCS to control 16 fans in Push/Pull on 2 60mm 480 Rads (UT60 or XSPC V3). I originally was going to get Noiseblocker PLPS PWM fans (run 8 fans per channel using a swiftech PWM splitter Molex powered), but now it seems that Aquaero has solved the problem with the SP120 PWM fans to allow more than 4-5 per channel.
> Just wanted to confirm that i should have no problem Running 8 SP120 PWM QE fans per channel using the swiftech splitter and the Aquaero 6 XT. I will probably be running these in the lower RPM area most of the time so want to make sure they will work.
> 
> Also how would I be able to confirm that the Aquaero 6 XT that i do get, is the newer version?
> 
> Thanks


Here's from a previous post where I tested my new version A6 with the Corsair fans:

I tested the new A6 with the corsair fans, and it is much better than before.

Here's what I got;

You need to set min power at 1% and tick the "hold min power" check box, or the fans run fast by default if they have a 0% PWM signal

1 fan will run at a min speed of ~740 rpm

Up to 11 fans could be slowed down to ~860 rpm, . . . . 10 fans was a bit more responsive to percentage changes and I would consider that the real limit.

As soon as I added a 12th fan, the low speed control totally went away, and the lowest they would run was ~1500+ rpm

13 fans, and they all ran close to max

It looks like the most you could possibly run relatively reliably, would be a 360 and a 240 rad in P-P on 1 channel.

It's still not as capable as the Diva 'Dapter PCB mod, but at least it's acceptable.

I'd give it a thumbs up for a P-P fan setup on anything up to a 480 sized rad.

Darlene


----------



## CaliLife17

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Here's from a previous post where I tested my new version A6 with the Corsair fans:
> 
> I tested the new A6 with the corsair fans, and it is much better than before.
> 
> Here's what I got;
> 
> You need to set min power at 1% and tick the "hold min power" check box, or the fans run fast by default if they have a 0% PWM signal
> 
> 1 fan will run at a min speed of ~740 rpm
> 
> Up to 11 fans could be slowed down to ~860 rpm, . . . . 10 fans was a bit more responsive to percentage changes and I would consider that the real limit.
> 
> As soon as I added a 12th fan, the low speed control totally went away, and the lowest they would run was ~1500+ rpm
> 
> 13 fans, and they all ran close to max
> 
> It looks like the most you could possibly run relatively reliably, would be a 360 and a 240 rad in P-P on 1 channel.
> 
> It's still not as capable as the Diva 'Dapter PCB mod, but at least it's acceptable.
> 
> I'd give it a thumbs up for a P-P fan setup on anything up to a 480 sized rad.
> 
> Darlene






Awesome, thanks IT Diva. Will instead go with the SP120 PWM QE fans instead of the Noiseblocker PLPS Fans. save me about 100 bucks, which i will just put to better Ram









Is there any way to confirm when i get the Aquero 6 XT that is indeed the new version vs the old version? any Model # difference. I will be ordering from PPCS and it seems they should have the new version, but like to be able to confirm.

Im thinking i will prob run the fans at 800-1k RPM range, since im doing push/pull dont need to rum them in high RPM.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CaliLife17*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Here's from a previous post where I tested my new version A6 with the Corsair fans:
> 
> I tested the new A6 with the corsair fans, and it is much better than before.
> 
> Here's what I got;
> 
> You need to set min power at 1% and tick the "hold min power" check box, or the fans run fast by default if they have a 0% PWM signal
> 
> 1 fan will run at a min speed of ~740 rpm
> 
> Up to 11 fans could be slowed down to ~860 rpm, . . . . 10 fans was a bit more responsive to percentage changes and I would consider that the real limit.
> 
> As soon as I added a 12th fan, the low speed control totally went away, and the lowest they would run was ~1500+ rpm
> 
> 13 fans, and they all ran close to max
> 
> It looks like the most you could possibly run relatively reliably, would be a 360 and a 240 rad in P-P on 1 channel.
> 
> It's still not as capable as the Diva 'Dapter PCB mod, but at least it's acceptable.
> 
> I'd give it a thumbs up for a P-P fan setup on anything up to a 480 sized rad.
> 
> Darlene
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Awesome, thanks IT Diva. Will instead go with the SP120 PWM QE fans instead of the Noiseblocker PLPS Fans. save me about 100 bucks, which i will just put to better Ram
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Is there any way to confirm when i get the Aquero 6 XT that is indeed the new version vs the old version? any Model # difference. I will be ordering from PPCS and it seems they should have the new version, but like to be able to confirm.
> 
> Im thinking i will prob run the fans at 800-1k RPM range, since im doing push/pull dont need to rum them in high RPM.
Click to expand...

The only way to confirm the version is to physically have it in your hand and check the value markings on the 4 tiny surface mount resistors that are about mid-PCB.

The first version use 100 ohm resistors, the second version uses 47 ohm resistors.

The 100 ohm are marked 100, while the 47 ohm are usually marked 470.

The marking convention is a bit inconsistent, but that's what we're seeing.

There's a good pic in one of the posts that has close ups and shows you exactly what to look for.

I don't have it bookmarked, hopefully some one else who does, will post it for you.

Several of us have got new A6 XT's from PPC in the last couple months, and all have been the newer version.

iirc, some one also got theirs from FCPU, and it was a new one also, but it looks like all PPC's current 6 XT stock is new.

Don't know about the PRO being new stock or old, not too many guys getting that one, at least that have reported about the resistors here.

Darlene


----------



## Costas

Here you go CaliLife17 - this is the post Darlene is referring to regarding the identification of the revised SMD resistors. The later units come fitted with 47 ohm resistors.

http://www.overclock.net/t/1474470/ocn-aquaero-owners-club/620#post_22271863


----------



## Party3an

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Several of us have got new A6 XT's from PPC in the last couple months, and all have been the newer version.
> Darlene


Hi Diva, Add me to the club please









I purchased Aquaero 6 PRO on 13.08.2014 from Aquatuning.de. An as I understand I have new resistors?

BEst Regards


----------



## IT Diva

You have the newer version.

Aquatuning had the new ones first, iirc from what Shoggy told us.

Darlene


----------



## XEKong

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *valvehead*
> 
> That sets the _range_ of control of the fans. You also need to assign the fans to a controller (along with a data source):
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For a quick check, you could assign the fans to a "Preset value" controller to verify that your fans are working.
> 
> In addition to the max and min settings on the Fan tab, you should also consider setting two other options:
> 
> "Hold minimum power" will keep the fans running even if the controller drops below the minimum. Otherwise the fans will shut off if the data source for the controller drops below the minimum setting.
> "Use start boost" can be used to set a startup power/voltage and duration when turning on the fans. Some fans need considerably more voltage to start than to run, so this setting helps to ensure that the fans will start spinning.
> 
> 
> 
> I'm using PWM, but the same principle applies to voltage-controlled fans.
> 
> 
> 
> Let us know if you have any further questions. The Aqauero has a bit of a steep learning curve.


I have a controller setup up on the Corsair fans setup on the splitter block and they work just fine. I even moved where that block is plugged in, and the fans ran up to 100% as expected. It's only when I hook up a single 3 pin fan, they won't spin at all. I even tried setting the minimum speed to 100%, with no luck. I tried 3 different brands of 3 pin fans to make sure it was not just the first one I tried. The fans run on the mobo header just fine.

I am running the latest version of Aquasuite.

Unfortunately, I don't have another PWM fan to test hooking it up by itself to see if that runs.


----------



## Malpractis

Hey all

I've got a Aquaero 6XT with the Real Time Clock expansion on the way, and I'm just deciding on my pump/res/fans. I'm aware of the PWM pullup issues. Just wanted to check if this would work, or if I need a poweradjust or 2.

I've got 4 360 Rads in P/P, what I was thinking of doing was attaching the 6 Rad fans to 1 of the Swiftech 8-way PWM Sata splitters (for each rad) then making/buying a 2-1 PWM cable to join the 2 swiftech into 1, so that would use 2 of the Aquaero fan channels for the 4 rads. From what I understand this shouldn't be an issue. I'm using NB e-loops on 2 of the rads definitely, and possibly on the other 2 also (just waiting for my case to arrive to see if I can fit a shroud to alleviate the issues with those fans in pull or not).

I'm thinking of getting the EK Dual X-Top pump top and running 2x of the Aquacomputer D5 pumps with USB interface. So I believe that because of the RTC expansion I have 2 Aquabus available for the pumps there.

And finally, I'm looking at getting a aqualis XT 450ml, which I believe I would connect to the Aquabus 'low' connection?

Just wondering if all this sounds way off base or not.

Thanks


----------



## Mega Man

either way you can just daisy chain the aquabus together

low vs high speed all the difference is the high speed supplies 5v iirc


----------



## Ragpad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Malpractis*
> 
> Hey all
> 
> I've got a Aquaero 6XT with the Real Time Clock expansion on the way, and I'm just deciding on my pump/res/fans. I'm aware of the PWM pullup issues. Just wanted to check if this would work, or if I need a poweradjust or 2.
> 
> I've got 4 360 Rads in P/P, what I was thinking of doing was attaching the 6 Rad fans to 1 of the Swiftech 8-way PWM Sata splitters (for each rad) then making/buying a 2-1 PWM cable to join the 2 swiftech into 1, so that would use 2 of the Aquaero fan channels for the 4 rads. From what I understand this shouldn't be an issue. I'm using NB e-loops on 2 of the rads definitely, and possibly on the other 2 also (just waiting for my case to arrive to see if I can fit a shroud to alleviate the issues with those fans in pull or not).
> 
> I'm thinking of getting the EK Dual X-Top pump top and running 2x of the Aquacomputer D5 pumps with USB interface. So I believe that because of the RTC expansion I have 2 Aquabus available for the pumps there.
> 
> And finally, I'm looking at getting a aqualis XT 450ml, which I believe I would connect to the Aquabus 'low' connection?
> 
> Just wondering if all this sounds way off base or not.
> 
> Thanks


@Malpractis

Aquaero manual states (on page 10) that the Aqualis XT series reservoirs should be connected to the "high-speed" aquabus port. (The Aqualis XT series have the MPS "flow" sensors (actually, from what I understand, they are all "differential" pressure sensors) for a variety of measurements.

As regards hooking up the radiator fans through the Swiftech 8-way PWM splitter, you should be able to "daisy-chain" the Swiftech splitters, as long as you are not connecting more than one fan to the Channel 1 of all of the Swiftech 8-way PWM splitters that you are using in your chain - _i. e_., connect _*only one*_ fan to *only one* of the Channel 1 on *one* Swiftech 8-way PWM splitter (which will be connected directly to your Aquaero PWM - fan - channel) and leave the rest of the Swiftech 8-way PWM splitters' Channel 1s unused. (I have not tried this yet, but the foregoing is my knee-jerk response.) This way, I would also think that you can get away with using only one "fan" (PWM) channel on the Aquaero for all of your fans.

*[Begin edit]*

On reviewing the Swiftech's 8-way PWM splitter "schematic," I believe that you can daisy-chain the splitters by connecting each splitter's "motherboard CPU_Fan header" to the next Swiftech 8-wat PWM splitter's Channel 1; and connect the last splitter's "motherboard CPU_Fan header" to the Aquaero's PWM (fan) header.

The "reference" fan will then be the one that is connected to the very first Swiftech's Channel 1 header,

Perhaps, this is what @Unicr0nhunter meant? If so, then I previously misunderstood what he had said. _Mea culpa!_

*[End edit]*

Perhaps, other far more experienced folks here can assist you better.


----------



## Malpractis

@Ragpad and Megaman

Cheers guys appreciate the info


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ragpad*
> 
> @Malpractis
> 
> Aquaero manual states (on page 10) that the Aqualis XT series reservoirs should be connected to the "high-speed" aquabus port. (The Aqualis XT series have the MPS "flow" sensors (actually, from what I understand, they are all "differential" pressure sensors) for a variety of measurements.
> 
> As regards hooking up the radiator fans through the Swiftech 8-way PWM splitter, you should be able to "daisy-chain" the Swiftech splitters, as long as you are not connecting more than one fan to the Channel 1 of all of the Swiftech 8-way PWM splitters that you are using in your chain - _i. e_., connect _only one_ fan to _only one_ of the Channel 1 on _one_ Swiftech 8-way PWM splitter (which will be connected directly to your Aquaero PWM - fan - channel) and *leave the rest of the Swiftech 8-way PWM splitters' Channel 1s unused*. (I have not tried this yet, but the foregoing is my knee-jerk response.) This way, I would also think that you can get away with using only one "fan" (PWM) channel on the Aquaero for all of your fans.
> 
> Perhaps, other far more experienced folks here can assist you better.


Actually, the part I bolded is unnecessary. Only the ch - 1 header of the Swiftech splitter has a live tach signal wire. All 7 of the other headers will not, so any subsequent pwm splitter daisy chained into any of those other 7 ports you can then have fans plugged into any of the 8 of the ports on it/them. The CH-1 header on subsequent splitters can't report the tach signal through a header on the first splitter where it wasn't active to begin with. You only need to make sure you have a single fan plugged into the CH-1 header on the first pwm splitter. After that it doesn't matter. Hope that made sense.


----------



## Mega Man

correct unless he home makes a wye ("Y") connection in which case he only takes a single RPM wire back to the source


----------



## Ragpad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Actually, the part I bolded is unnecessary. Only the ch - 1 header of the Swiftech splitter has a live tach signal wire. All 7 of the other headers will not, so any subsequent pwm splitter daisy chained into any of those other 7 ports you can then have fans plugged into any of the 8 of the ports on it/them. The CH-1 header on subsequent splitters can't report the tach signal through a header on the first splitter where it wasn't active to begin with. You only need to make sure you have a single fan plugged into the CH-1 header on the first pwm splitter. After that it doesn't matter. Hope that made sense.


@Unicr0nhunter:

Yes, it does indeed make sense, and that is what I also actually meant; needless to say, you said it better!







Thanks!


----------



## Ragpad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Malpractis*
> 
> @Ragpad and Megaman
> 
> Cheers guys appreciate the info


@Malpractis:

Anytime; it is nice to try to be of assistance, although I refrain from assisting, lest I screw up. (Thankfully, there are others here to catch my mistakes and fix my mistakes.







)


----------



## Malpractis

@Unicr0nhunter
Yeah it does make sense.


----------



## Ragpad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Malpractis*
> 
> Hey all
> So I believe that because of the RTC expansion I have 2 Aquabus available for the pumps there.
> 
> Thanks


@Malpractis:

I have a question for you (and others, too): Will the Aquaero RTC expansion module/card work with the passive heat-sink and the water-block on the Aquaero 6XT? (I posed this question to Aquatuning and was told that it would get back to me with an answer directly from Aquacomputer.) Thanks!


----------



## Malpractis

I'm
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ragpad*
> 
> @Malpractis:
> 
> I have a question for you (and others, too): Will the Aquaero RTC expansion module/card work with the passive heat-sink and the water-block on the Aquaero 6XT? (I posed this question to Aquatuning and was told that it would get back to me with an answer directly from Aquacomputer.) Thanks!


I'm 95% sure it works with the heatsink, as one of the pics I was looking at had a heatsink installed with the RTC sitting on top. Not sure about the water-block though sorry. But from what I've read there is no need for the water block in 90% of cases with the 6XT as they've improved the thermals immensely, even the heatsink isn't required I just like the look of it


----------



## Mega Man

they say it will


----------



## Ragpad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Malpractis*
> 
> I'm
> I'm 95% sure it works with the heatsink, as one of the pics I was looking at had a heatsink installed with the RTC sitting on top. Not sure about the water-block though sorry. But from what I've read there is no need for the water block in 90% of cases with the 6XT as they've improved the thermals immensely, even the heatsink isn't required I just like the look of it


@Malpractis:

Thanks for the information; that certainly helps. So, from what you are telling me, the screws provided with the RTC module/card and the standoffs should be able to go through both the RTC module/card and the heat-sink? Actually, come to think of it, the water-block is set so far away from the RTC module/card that should not be an issue.


----------



## Ragpad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> they say it will


@Mega Man:

Thanks, pal! (I take it that "they" means Aquacomputer.)


----------



## Party3an

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ragpad*
> 
> @Malpractis:
> 
> Thanks for the information; that certainly helps. So, from what you are telling me, the screws provided with the RTC module/card and the standoffs should be able to go through both the RTC module/card and the heat-sink? Actually, come to think of it, the water-block is set so far away from the RTC module/card that should not be an issue.


@Ragpad

Take a look here: Aquaero 6 Pro link
I think you will find an answer.
You will have to use 2 standoffs for RTC provided with heat-sink package and 2 long screws from RTC module package

About water-block.
If you would like to install water- block you have to mount it, on a heat-sink before heat-sink install. With 2 small screws provided with heat-sink. And not plastic ones from water block package.

Took pictures from here.

As you can see there is plenty of place for RTC module









Best Regards


----------



## Ragpad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Party3an*
> 
> @Ragpad
> 
> Take a look here: Aquaero 6 Pro link
> I think you will find an answer.
> You will have to use 2 standoffs for RTC provided with heat-sink package and 2 long screws from RTC module package
> 
> About water-block.
> If you would like to install water- block you have to mount it, on a heat-sink before heat-sink install. With 2 small screws provided with heat-sink. And not plastic ones from water block package.
> 
> Took pictures from here.
> 
> As you can see there is plenty of place for RTC module
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Best Regards


@Part3an:

That does help; and many thanks, pal! Now, I have to find the standoffs that came with the passive heatsink. (I cannot recall if I ever received one!







)


----------



## Party3an

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ragpad*
> 
> @Part3an:
> 
> That does help; and many thanks, pal! Now, I have to find the standoffs that came with the passive heatsink. (I cannot recall if I ever received one!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )


@Ragpad
I hope, you not throw them away. Otherwise just cut long ones provided with RTC.

Best Regards


----------



## Ragpad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Party3an*
> 
> @Ragpad
> I hope, you not throw them away. Otherwise just cut long ones provided with RTC.
> 
> Best Regards


@Part3an:

I never throw away any of the parts, but finding them (when needed) in my sky-high junk pile is an entirely different saga; we shall see. Thanks!


----------



## Mega Man

HAHA sounds like me


----------



## Party3an

Same situation







) I even have box corner in my room. Even from build that is no longer by me.


----------



## Ragpad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> HAHA sounds like me


@Mega Man:

It is certainly heartening to see that I have company!


----------



## Ragpad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Party3an*
> 
> Same situation
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ) I even have box corner in my room. Even from build that is no longer by me.


@Party3an:

Might you also be suffering from OCD, as I am?!


----------



## electro2u

I have an Aquaero 6 XT and an AC "High Flow" sensor. http://martinsliquidlab.org/2012/01/21/aquacomputer-water-high-flow-sensor-meter/. The sensor seems dead. Is that possible? I wasn't sure how to install it so the first thing I tried was plugging it into the "Flow" port on the AQ6,
Nothing under either flow sensor 1 or 2.
Then I switched the Flow sensor cable (yes the Aquacomputer one that is a separate product) to the "High" Aquabus port. No idea why I did that but it didn't work either.
Then I got smart and switched the system to the Fan 1 = Flow 2 option. I plugged the Flow meter into FAN1. Still nothing. Is the thing dead? Did I kill it? Should I toss it? RMA it? Talk sweetly to it?

Thanks!


----------



## Party3an

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ragpad*
> 
> @Party3an:
> 
> Might you also be suffering from OCD, as I am?!


@Rafpad

Not too much. But sometimes yes


----------



## Party3an

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> I have an Aquaero 6 XT and an AC "High Flow" sensor. http://martinsliquidlab.org/2012/01/21/aquacomputer-water-high-flow-sensor-meter/. The sensor seems dead. Is that possible? I wasn't sure how to install it so the first thing I tried was plugging it into the "Flow" port on the AQ6,
> Nothing under either flow sensor 1 or 2.
> Then I switched the Flow sensor cable (yes the Aquacomputer one that is a separate product) to the "High" Aquabus port. No idea why I did that but it didn't work either.
> Then I got smart and switched the system to the Fan 1 = Flow 2 option. I plugged the Flow meter into FAN1. Still nothing. Is the thing dead? Did I kill it? Should I toss it? RMA it? Talk sweetly to it?
> Thanks!


I think you need something like this. Aquacomputer flow meter cable 3-pin
Have to buy separate or make it your self.

Best Regards


----------



## electro2u

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Party3an*
> 
> I think you need something like this. Aquacomputer flow meter cable 3-pin
> Have to buy separate or make it your self.
> 
> Best Regards


Thanks for the reply. If you read what you quoted you'll see it says I'm using the correct cable.


----------



## mantrius

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Party3an*
> 
> I think you need something like this. Aquacomputer flow meter cable 3-pin
> Have to buy separate or make it your self.
> 
> Best Regards


I ended up buying one since I could never get an answer on what molex part number is used for the connector to the actual flow meter itself.


----------



## Mega Man

Just a 3 pin fan Conector fyi


----------



## electro2u

Try plugging a 3 pin fan connector into the aquacomputer flow meter. It's a different plug type on that end.


----------



## Mega Man

sorry i thought you ment on the AQ


----------



## Currency Lad

Hey all! Great thread.

Planning a chiller box setup separate from the PC, housing: dedicated PSU, pumps, fans (for box ventilation), temp & flow sensors etc. all to be controlled by an Aquaero 6 XT.

Would like to keep this as portable (and reusable) as possible, so I am endeavouring build the unit self-contained. For example the loops between PC and chiller box will be connected by bulkhead QDCs.

Which throws up the following 2 questions:

1. For communication between the Aquaero and PC by USB will this work?:

a) connect Aquaero's USB cable to a USB header on a NZXT IU01 internal USB expansion board (and likewise for any Aquacomputer USB connected accessories such as the High Flow sensor)
b) connect 9-pin side connector of NZXT IU01 (which would normally connect via their supplied cable to a 9-pin USB header on the motherboard) to an external USB PCI bracket
c) connect external USB bracket to PC with a USB data link cable

Any minimum current requirements I should be aware of? For instance, many USB data link cables can carry 200mA only.

2. For the emergency shutoff capabilities of the Aquaero:

Use Aquacomputer's ATX Break adapter on both the PC's and the chiller box's PSU (1 on each) and somehow wire the lines for the relay switch in parallel? Or am I completely off track here?

Will appreciate any advice and keep up the great work and informative posts. Don't think I could contemplate this build if the Aquaero didn't exist.


----------



## Mega Man

i think you should ask NZXT

i know there is a max length USB can be, but i dont know what it is


----------



## Wolfsbora

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> i think you should ask NZXT
> 
> i know there is a max length USB can be, but i dont know what it is


5 meters is typically the maximum length.


----------



## Mega Man

also to note you could just use 2 of the usb to header cables too


----------



## Currency Lad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> i think you should ask NZXT/quote]
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Wolfsbora*
> 
> 5 meters is typically the maximum length.
> 
> 
> 
> Fair enough. I'll shoot them an email. The longest USB data cable I've seen so far is 72" (1.83m) which is more than sufficient for my needs - well under the 5m limit.
> 
> (This isn't the thread to bore you with the details, but the chiller etc. will be housed in a purpose built soundproofed, ventilated wooden cabinet. This will sit next to the desk where the PC resides and act as a return on which to site printers and such. I live in a shoebox apartment, so I don't have the luxury of housing the chiller in a basement for example.)
> 
> I guess I'm really just asking if the Aquaero needs any specific power requirements from the USB header (USB 2.0 can supply up to 500mA) or just the data connection. Since it can operate standalone (without Aquasuite) I'm guessing no, but would like confirmation.
> 
> I'd also like to know if I can power off both PSUs with the Aquaero's relay switch.
> 
> Pretty specific questions, I know, but I thought perhaps IT Diva or Shoggy could point me in the right direction.
> 
> I'll wait for others to chime in. Thanks heaps for your help though. Appreciated ?.
Click to expand...


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Currency Lad*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> i think you should ask NZXT
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Wolfsbora*
> 
> 5 meters is typically the maximum length.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Fair enough. I'll shoot them an email. The longest USB data cable I've seen so far is 72" (1.83m) which is more than sufficient for my needs - well under the 5m limit.
> 
> (This isn't the thread to bore you with the details, but the chiller etc. will be housed in a purpose built soundproofed, ventilated wooden cabinet. This will sit next to the desk where the PC resides and act as a return on which to site printers and such. I live in a shoebox apartment, so I don't have the luxury of housing the chiller in a basement for example.)
> 
> I guess I'm really just asking if the Aquaero needs any specific power requirements from the USB header (USB 2.0 can supply up to 500mA) or just the data connection. Since it can operate standalone (without Aquasuite) I'm guessing no, but would like confirmation.
> 
> I'd also like to know if I can power off both PSUs with the Aquaero's relay switch.
> 
> Pretty specific questions, I know, but I thought perhaps IT Diva or Shoggy could point me in the right direction.
> 
> I'll wait for others to chime in. Thanks heaps for your help though. Appreciated ?.
Click to expand...

If you want to use the A6's relay to power off 2 PSU's, you'd need to use an auxiliary relay, one with 2 sets of contacts, one set for each PSU, and then have the A6's relay control that relay.

You'll want to use a 5V relay, so that it can be powered from the +5V Standby power so you have more configuration options.

The A6 does indeed make use of the USB connection when the system is powered down, it lets you use the user interface buttons etc. to check settings and do whatever you might need onscreen.

If I recall / reason correctly, it also powers the relay, so that if you have a shutdown set up with the relay, you'll need the USB connection.

Hopefully Shoggy will chime in on this.

It's probably only on the order of a few milliamps, but it uses the standby power from the PSU via the USB connection.

If you have the A6 programmed via Aquasuite, and subsequently disconnect the USB cable, all the settings programmed in should execute fine without the USB connection, IF . . . . . . You have all the programming that requires sensor data, to use sensors that connect to the A6. . . . temp sensors for example

If you have sensor data from AID64 or HWMonitor, like CPU temp for example, or anything else, that runs with the PC, being used by the A6 to control something, . . . . then it will Not work without the USB cable.

I'm also working on a chiller build, with the plan to let a pair of chillers take the place of a lot of rad & fan space to maintain a low delta t here in a very hot climate.

I'm using the A6's / Aquasuite's, virtual sensor capability to create a delta t sensor, so it can progressively turn on/off the chillers as the delta t rises above a preset level.

My A6 will be in the PC case, as it needs to be connected to a lot of loop temp sensors and such, since it controls the speed on the rad fans, monitors the flow and pump rpm, as well as control the chillers.





Keep us posted on your chiller build.

Darlene


----------



## Currency Lad

Awesome! Thanks for replying Darlene.

I do intend to keep the USB permanently connected, with the Aquaero getting standby power via the USB cable. Is that why the separate standby connector on the 5 was dropped on the 6?

But if you refer to my earlier post #1840 (the one where I didn't stuff up using Tapatalk's quote function) I was trying to see if I could do this externally. If I can, hopefully the 200mA supplied by the USB data link cable (which can connect 2 hosts Male A to Male A) should be sufficient.

The info on the auxiliary relay was exactly what I was looking for. But I don't have your electrical skills. Since I'll also be using an AC pump for the chiller (on a separate loop going into a common tank) and possibly an AC fan for the back of the housing, I think I'll get someone a bit more skilled to wire it all up together. I have access to technicians (I work in the semiconductor industry) and my uncle's an electrician so I'm covered. Kind of legally mandatory for this sort of thing here in Oz anyway.

And yes, I saw from your earlier posts that either you or Geggeg was going to pip me to the post with incorporating the Aquaero into a chiller build. Actually been planning this for a while but life and work got in the way - you know the drill.

Is that 2 Hailea 500s I see in that photo? That's some serious cooling power. Incidentally, the chiller gurus over at XtremeSystems reckon you shouldn't combine chillers and rads into the same system - they work against each other.

One final question. (For now that is. No doubt I'll have more when I finally get all the parts.):

When I first looked into using the Aquaero they wetted my appetite by talking about an upcoming dew point sensor that could be connected to the Aquabus. I emailed Aquacomputer about this ages ago, only to have Sven reply that they dropped the idea. Bummer ?. Any thoughts on an alternative method?


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Currency Lad*
> 
> Awesome! Thanks for replying Darlene.
> 
> I do intend to keep the USB permanently connected, with the Aquaero getting standby power via the USB cable. Is that why the separate standby connector on the 5 was dropped on the 6?
> 
> But if you refer to my earlier post #1840 (the one where I didn't stuff up using Tapatalk's quote function) I was trying to see if I could do this externally. If I can, hopefully the 200mA supplied by the USB data link cable (which can connect 2 hosts Male A to Male A) should be sufficient.
> 
> The info on the auxiliary relay was exactly what I was looking for. But I don't have your electrical skills. Since I'll also be using an AC pump for the chiller (on a separate loop going into a common tank) and possibly an AC fan for the back of the housing, I think I'll get someone a bit more skilled to wire it all up together. I have access to technicians (I work in the semiconductor industry) and my uncle's an electrician so I'm covered. Kind of legally mandatory for this sort of thing here in Oz anyway.
> 
> And yes, I saw from your earlier posts that either you or Geggeg was going to pip me to the post with incorporating the Aquaero into a chiller build. Actually been planning this for a while but life and work got in the way - you know the drill.
> 
> *Is that 2 Hailea 500s I see in that photo? That's some serious cooling power. Incidentally, the chiller gurus over at XtremeSystems reckon you shouldn't combine chillers and rads into the same system - they work against each other.*
> 
> One final question. (For now that is. No doubt I'll have more when I finally get all the parts.):
> 
> When I first looked into using the Aquaero they wetted my appetite by talking about an upcoming dew point sensor that could be connected to the Aquabus. I emailed Aquacomputer about this ages ago, only to have Sven reply that they dropped the idea. Bummer ?. Any thoughts on an alternative method?


That is indeed 2 Hailea 500's, the 1/2HP model.

The issue with incorporating rads or not, has to do with the temp you plan to run the system at, and its basic purpose.

When the plan is to be able to run coolant below ambient or perhaps even below dewpoint, having a rad does indeed work "against" what you're trying to do by warming the chilled coolant up.

When you get to where you're looking at a sub-ambient system, you really have to guard against condensation and the problems that come with it, and the ugliness that that trying to insulate things creates.

The guys on Xtreme are virtually all looking at well below dewpoint systems, so that's where their "no rads" philosophy comes from.

They are also likely running the main loop thru the chillers to get it as cold as possible.

The design goal of my build is to let the chillers take the place of a lot of rad space and fans that would otherwise be required to maintain a Delta t <5 C with ambients in the mid 30's C range.

I'm also running 2 loops, one main loop and one cold loop.

The cold / chiller loop cools the main loop thru a pair of plate type heat exchangers, so the main loop coolant stays between a little below to slightly above ambient if I use enough hysteresis in the chiller controller.

Essentially, I'm looking at being able to get the same coolant temps that you expect with a decent water cooled system where the ambients are at least 10C less than mine, without having to have six 480 rads and 50 fans and still not be able to do it.

By having 2 loops and a rad in the main loop, the chillers never have to run while doing common tasks like surfing or emails etc. . . . . The chillers only come on when the system comes under load like video editing or gaming.

Most chiller builds that I've seen are purposed for cold operation to allow more voltage and higher clocks, . . . Usually for benching

Obviously, my build plan is quite different.

Darlene


----------



## electro2u

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Most chiller builds that I've seen are purposed for cold operation to allow more voltage and higher clocks, . . . Usually for benching
> 
> Obviously, my build plan is quite different.


Wow. That's neat. +1


----------



## Currency Lad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> That is indeed 2 Hailea 500's, the 1/2HP model.
> 
> The issue with incorporating rads or not, has to do with the temp you plan to run the system at, and its basic purpose.
> 
> When the plan is to be able to run coolant below ambient or perhaps even below dewpoint, having a rad does indeed work "against" what you're trying to do by warming the chilled coolant up.
> 
> When you get to where you're looking at a sub-ambient system, you really have to guard against condensation and the problems that come with it, and the ugliness that that trying to insulate things creates.
> 
> The guys on Xtreme are virtually all looking at well below dewpoint systems, so that's where their "no rads" philosophy comes from.
> 
> They are also likely running the main loop thru the chillers to get it as cold as possible.
> 
> The design goal of my build is to let the chillers take the place of a lot of rad space and fans that would otherwise be required to maintain a Delta t <5 C with ambients in the mid 30's C range.
> 
> I'm also running 2 loops, one main loop and one cold loop.
> 
> The cold / chiller loop cools the main loop thru a pair of plate type heat exchangers, so the main loop coolant stays between a little below to slightly above ambient if I use enough hysteresis in the chiller controller.
> 
> Essentially, I'm looking at being able to get the same coolant temps that you expect with a decent water cooled system where the ambients are at least 10C less than mine, without having to have six 480 rads and 50 fans and still not be able to do it.
> 
> By having 2 loops and a rad in the main loop, the chillers never have to run while doing common tasks like surfing or emails etc. . . . . The chillers only come on when the system comes under load like video editing or gaming.
> 
> Most chiller builds that I've seen are purposed for cold operation to allow more voltage and higher clocks, . . . Usually for benching
> 
> Obviously, my build plan is quite different.
> 
> Darlene
> 
> 
> 
> Point taken about the folks over at XtremeSystems being, well ... Xtreme!
> 
> Actually, our goals and build plans aren't [bold]that[/bold] different, just variations on a theme. Let me explain.
> 
> I too want a rig for use 24/7 and wish to avoid being at or falling below dew point and having to insulate everything with Armaflex, Neoprene and even Vasoline on the MB! Yikes ?! I do want to overclock, though.
> 
> But there is a window between ambient and dew point, although it gets exponentially narrower as relative humidity rises. As a practical example, in summer here temperatures can average 35 Celsius and RH 75% yielding a dew point of 30 Celsius (5 degree window). In winter temperatures can average 17 Celsius and RH 50% yielding a dew point of 7 Celsius (10 degree window).
> 
> So there's always some room to move below ambient but stay above the condensation point. But granted, if you're manually controlling the chiller temp, you'd want to keep a close eye on it and probably maintain an offset of 3-5 degrees above to play safe. Which is why I'd love to have a dew point sensor (a common item in industry) linked to the Aquaero to control it all automatically.
> 
> As for the build:
> 
> The Hailea will be fed by an AC Eheim pump, pass through a Koolance plate heat exchanger then through stainless steel bulkheads into a 45L ice box (the tank) and back to the Eheim.
> 
> The motherboard loop (which comprises anodised aluminium) will pass through the other chamber (?) of the heat exchanger (stainless steel) powered by a MCP35X dialed down via PWM by the Aquaero. All other fittings will be stainless steel.
> 
> The CPU/GPU loop, also powered by an Aquaero linked MCP35X, will feed directly from the tank which is cooled by the return from the chiller. So the more common copper/nickel/brass fittings/blocks for this loop won't corrode the aluminium motherboard block since their coolants never mix.
> 
> The key is giving the chiller a load of at least 30L so the compressor isn't cycling on and off every 5 minutes, shortening its life and driving you nuts. This way it should cycle on for a few minutes roughly every half hour (more like a refrigerator would). Maybe a bit more often under sustained load. Goodbye rads!
> 
> At least, that's the plan. It has been done before. But not with the Aquaero thrown into the mix. Hope this gives you a better idea of what I am trying to achieve.
> 
> By the way, are you using the Aquaero to cycle the chiller(s) from a relay to the power source or are you delving directly into the Hailea's electronics? I only ask because a lot of users replace the Hailea's temp sensor which apparently can be a bit inaccurate.
Click to expand...


----------



## IT Diva

Have a look at my Tropical Frost build log . . . link below in my signature.

It goes into a lot of detail regarding the build plan and the controller specifics.

Darlene


----------



## Currency Lad

OK. Will do. Thanks.


----------



## Wolfsbora

Hi everyone, should I be concerned that my MPS 400 is only reporting back 3 to 10 l/h to my 6XT?


----------



## supermiguel

So im building a pretty big system basically about 80 fans, 10 radiators, etc, ill post a link to build log if you want to see it..

But here is my question

1- i will be using 2 d5 pumps with this top: http://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-d5-dual-top-g1-4-csq-black-acetal.html, the pumps that i ordered were the regular Aqua Computer D5 pump motor with speed signal but im wondering since ill be using the Aquaero 6 if i should exchange them for the Aqua Computer D5 pump motor with USB and aquabus interface, i dont think ill be messing much with the speed so i didnt see a point, i asked if they had an internal water temperature sensor but answer was no.. So not sure whats the advantage beside speed control

2- So what else should i buy, to add to the aquaero? i want to buy a water block but cant find them, i want temp sensors and flow sensors but not sure which ones to buy









edit: so by reading this forums, someone mentioned that the Aquaero 6 can detect if the pump stopped working, generate an alarm and shut the system down?

edit2: btw this is my build log http://www.overclock.net/t/1508183/build-log-super-monster


----------



## electro2u

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *supermiguel*
> 
> Im wondering since ill be using the Aquaero 6 if i should exchange them for the Aqua Computer D5 pump motor with USB and aquabus interface, i dont think ill be messing much with the speed so i didnt see a point, i asked if they had an internal water temperature sensor but answer was no.. So not sure whats the advantage beside speed control
> 
> 2- So what else should i buy, to add to the aquaero? i want to buy a water block but cant find them, i want temp sensors and flow sensors but not sure which ones to buy
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> edit: so by reading this forums, someone mentioned that the Aquaero 6 can detect if the pump stopped working, generate an alarm and shut the system down?
> 
> edit2: btw this is my build log http://www.overclock.net/t/1508183/build-log-super-monster


Hiya. I have a 2 pump system and I'm running 1 of the pumps off my AQ6 directly, using one of the fan channels. The other runs off my power supply and sends an RPM signal to my motherboard. Both my pumps are just vario pumps with molex power connectors.

80 fans is pretty much the maximum number of fans a single Aquaero can run on its own (~20 per channel). If you want to run both the pumps on the same unit as those 80 fans at the same time, you'll need the Aquabus pumps, which don't require a fan channel and get powered off the PSU while being controlled by the AQ. I find it unnecessary to have pwm control for my pumps, but for some setups it is certainly more ideal. Also, the Aquacomputer Aquabus D5s do have temperature sensor inputs. Personally, the $50 extra per fan AC wants for these pumps is too much, but for others it would be silly not to use them.

The waterblock isnt an exact fit... I'm not sure about that. I know for a fact you need to mount it on the separate heatsink AC sells, though. The heatsink is awesome, very stylish and functional.

As for other accessories--You might want to look at flow meters, I have a single AC 'high flow" meter that seems to work very well, although it doesn't come with the cable needed to make it work... must purchase separate or make yourself.
They have a nice single RGB LED lighting module that is extremely bright that can be set to change color based on user settings like AQ CPU temp, but unfortunately the controller only supports one of these.
More than likely you may be interested in more fan channels, which can be provided by the "Power adjust" add on modules.
The relay output is for shutting off the system during alarm conditions, and requires a relay plug and a 24-pin ATX break cable, but this can also be accomplished using the software and USB connection, though it is a much slower effective process.
If you aren't going to be connecting the AQ to the system with USB, you might also be interested in the Real-Time clock module.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *supermiguel*
> 
> So im building a pretty big system basically about 80 fans, 10 radiators, etc, ill post a link to build log if you want to see it..
> 
> But here is my question
> 
> 1- i will be using 2 d5 pumps with this top: http://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-d5-dual-top-g1-4-csq-black-acetal.html, the pumps that i ordered were the regular Aqua Computer D5 pump motor with speed signal but im wondering since ill be using the Aquaero 6 if i should exchange them for the Aqua Computer D5 pump motor with USB and aquabus interface, i dont think ill be messing much with the speed so i didnt see a point, i asked if they had an internal water temperature sensor but answer was no.. So not sure whats the advantage beside speed control
> 
> 2- So what else should i buy, to add to the aquaero? i want to buy a water block but cant find them, i want temp sensors and flow sensors but not sure which ones to buy
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> edit: so by reading this forums, someone mentioned that the Aquaero 6 can detect if the pump stopped working, generate an alarm and shut the system down?
> 
> edit2: btw this is my build log http://www.overclock.net/t/1508183/build-log-super-monster


I'm thinking that you need to do a lot more planning than just wondering what else to buy for your A6.

Since you have the space for Ten 480 rads, why not break that down into at least 2 loops . . . . Mobo & 1 GPU with 4 rads on 1 loop and the other 3 GPUs and 6 rads on the second loop, . . . .

Use a dual D5 pump setup for each loop . . . . Both loops are going to have a fair amount of restriction with so many rads and interconnecting fittings.

You could also break it down into 3 loops, with the mobo/CPU on one loop with 2 rads, and then pairs of GPUs with 4 rads per pair on each of 2 additional loops. . . . . .

Use a dual D5 pump setup for each loop.

Once you find the sweet spot for pump rpm, you won't need to be changing it much, but it's nice to be able to adjust it so you can find the sweet spot. . . . . . .

And since you can never seem to be able to get to the little red adjuster on the D5 vario models, so either the AC-USB model or the PWM version, (requires a small mod on the cable) would be my suggestions.

I use the Koolance flow meters and have no issues.

Lots smaller and easier to plumb in than the AC ones. . . . . . You can get them with built in temp probe as well, and the frequency adapters come with integral display, or without.

http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=40228

http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=31012

http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=36035

http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=28876

The waterblock doesn't really do that much for the A6, like it did for the 5 series, and it adds another thing in the loop to plumb in.

You can use the A6 passive heatsink with the additional finned passive heatsink for the 5 series a lot more easily.

And I guess I missed it, but are you planning to control all those fans from the A6, or just let them run full speed from the PSU?

At only 1.32W per fan, (disregarding any start-up inrush), you could put 20 per channel, but adding a 5LT as a slave would give you 4 more channels to work with to better organize your control group plan.

Darlene


----------



## reklaw75

Hi guys,

Another couple of questions as I slowly work through adding in some new shiny input devices to my AQ6 system.

I have added in two water temperature sensors and the Aquacomputer High Flow USB flow rate sensor to my single loop which is currently
undergoing an extended leak test.

Question 1. As ultimately I will be connecting the Flow sensor via Aquabus cable (to the AQ6 High port), should I configure the unit first via USB before plugging it into the AQ6?
The manual says something about that but not in much detail. Any help on the best way to setup the Flow sensor would be much appreciated (I have all the cables to run it in Aquabus or USB mode so whatever works best).

Question 2. Determining heat output from the water temperature sensors. Just to double check I have the correct placement of the water temp sensors (for the purposes of calculating the heat output with 2 x water sensor and 1 x air temp sensor) in my loop. I have the first water temp sensor just in front of the first rad AFTER the hot part of the loop (hot side) and the other water temp sensor AFTER the final rad, i.e. the cool side.

Thanks all for your help.

Bruce


----------



## Jakusonfire

For using the heat output / power measurement function you need two water sensors. One before what is being measured and one after. That is then compared to the flow rate and a wattage figured us calculated.
You could set it up as you describe with one at the coolest post the loo and at the warmest for a whole system measurement but you still need the flow sensor, not ambient temp.

Comparing ambient to loop temp is the air/water delta temp. That can be trickier than it sounds at first because getting a good ambient measurement requires careful placing the air sensor so it can be affected be air from the system. I have found the best way is to preferably use a couple of sensors that are compared. Then you need to test it by running the system up to full load and charting the ambient temp. If it goes up with load it is being corrupted by exhaust air.


----------



## WHIMington

I was planning to use to radiator inlet temperature as an alternative to pure ambient for fan speed control purpose.
I happens to have enough sensors in my loop that can fill up all the ports on the AQ6, my 360 and 240 have inlet/outlet temperature and another 120 have outlet temperature, all rads have a lip sensor(that was came with the AQ6) at air inlet side for the purpose above, is there any idea on how to set it up in aquasuite?

P.S. I know it was un-necessary and over killing, but I just wants to know how much can I do with AQ6.


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WHIMington*
> 
> I was planning to use to radiator inlet temperature as an alternative to pure ambient for fan speed control purpose.
> I happens to have enough sensors in my loop that can fill up all the ports on the AQ6, my 360 and 240 have inlet/outlet temperature and another 120 have outlet temperature, all rads have a lip sensor(that was came with the AQ6) at air inlet side for the purpose above, is there any idea on how to set it up in aquasuite?
> 
> P.S. I know it was un-necessary and over killing, but I just wants to know how much can I do with AQ6.


If you mean radiator inlet water temp for fan speed control rather than radiator inlet air temp ... On a system this size, It's not a good idea.

Instead of just being affected by system load like air/water delta it's much more affected by ambient. If you mean inlet/outlet water delta it is affected much more by fan speed than system load .... So it becomes controlling fan speed based on fan speed.


----------



## WHIMington

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> If you mean radiator inlet water temp for fan speed control rather than radiator inlet air temp ... On a system this size, It's not a good idea.
> 
> Instead of just being affected by system load like air/water delta it's much more affected by ambient. If you mean inlet/outlet water delta it is affected much more by fan speed than system load .... So it becomes controlling fan speed based on fan speed.


When I say "radiator inlet air temp", I mean exactly that


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WHIMington*
> 
> When I say "radiator inlet air temp", I mean exactly that


Yes, I'm sure, but you said "radiator inlet temperature" which can mean two things. I didn't want to assume.

A large chunk of my post above disappeared because I was working from a mobile device which is why it doesn't make a lot of sense.

Rad air inlet temp is great to use, you just have to be careful with sensor placement because it is very easy for them to be corrupted by exhaust air and radiant heat. I found in my system the best way was to use at least two air sensors and compare them into one. Then it needs to be tested by running the system up to load while charting the inlet temp. If it climbs with load it is being corrupted and needs attention.


----------



## Ragpad

Guys:

As you all know, I am a newbie, mucking my way around many things around here. Thanks to you guys here, I am learning (or more aptly, so I hope!), despite my thick skull. Anyway, I have a couple of questions:

_Question #1_:

I vaguely recall that the Aquaero 6XT relay pinout was mislabeled and that @Shoggy (or someone else) posted the "correct" pinout for that relay somewhere. Unfortunately, I am unable to locate that particular post. Am I imagining that the AQ6 relay is mislabeled somewhere (heatsink, the self-adhesive label, _etc_.). If I am not smoking dope, then could you please provide me the correct pinout schematic for the AQ6 relay? If I am indeed hallucinating, then please tell me so.







. (I have also PM'ed @Shoggy on this just a few minutes ago, and I would ask on this forum, also.)

_Question #2_:

Is it possible to bookmark a specific post on this forum, for it will save a lot of time on search for the specifics?

Thanks very much in advance for all your help!


----------



## Mega Man

#1 to my knowledge it isnt mislabeled at all

#2 idk


----------



## mbreslin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ragpad*
> 
> Guys:
> 
> As you all know, I am a newbie, mucking my way around many things around here. Thanks to you guys here, I am learning (or more aptly, so I hope!), despite my thick skull. Anyway, I have a couple of questions:
> 
> _Question #1_:
> 
> I vaguely recall that the Aquaero 6XT relay pinout was mislabeled and that @Shoggy (or someone else) posted the "correct" pinout for that relay somewhere. Unfortunately, I am unable to locate that particular post. Am I imagining that the AQ6 relay is mislabeled somewhere (heatsink, the self-adhesive label, _etc_.). If I am not smoking dope, then could you please provide me the correct pinout schematic for the AQ6 relay? If I am indeed hallucinating, then please tell me so.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . (I have also PM'ed @Shoggy on this just a few minutes ago, and I would ask on this forum, also.)
> 
> _Question #2_:
> 
> Is it possible to bookmark a specific post on this forum, for it will save a lot of time on search for the specifics?
> 
> Thanks very much in advance for all your help!


#2 Sure the post # in the top right of the post is a direct link to the specific post.


----------



## Ragpad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mbreslin*
> 
> #2 Sure the post # in the top right of the post is a direct link to the specific post.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> #1 to my knowledge it isnt mislabeled at all
> 
> #2 idk


@mbreslin and @Mega Man:

Danke schoen; much appreciated!


----------



## Ragpad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> #1 to my knowledge it isnt mislabeled at all
> 
> #2 idk


@Mega Man:

So, are the AQ5 and AQ6 relay pinouts different, after all?


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mbreslin*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ragpad*
> 
> Guys:
> 
> As you all know, I am a newbie, mucking my way around many things around here. Thanks to you guys here, I am learning (or more aptly, so I hope!), despite my thick skull. Anyway, I have a couple of questions:
> 
> _Question #1_:
> 
> I vaguely recall that the Aquaero 6XT relay pinout was mislabeled and that @Shoggy (or someone else) posted the "correct" pinout for that relay somewhere. Unfortunately, I am unable to locate that particular post. Am I imagining that the AQ6 relay is mislabeled somewhere (heatsink, the self-adhesive label, _etc_.). If I am not smoking dope, then could you please provide me the correct pinout schematic for the AQ6 relay? If I am indeed hallucinating, then please tell me so.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . (I have also PM'ed @Shoggy on this just a few minutes ago, and I would ask on this forum, also.)
> 
> _Question #2_:
> 
> Is it possible to bookmark a specific post on this forum, for it will save a lot of time on search for the specifics?
> 
> Thanks very much in advance for all your help!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> #2 Sure the post # in the top right of the post is a direct link to the specific post.
Click to expand...

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ragpad*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> #1 to my knowledge it isnt mislabeled at all
> 
> #2 idk
> 
> 
> 
> @Mega Man:
> 
> So, are the AQ5 and AQ6 relay pinouts different, after all?
Click to expand...

i think you are right now that you mention it but i cant find it,

yes they are different as they are backwards,


----------



## Ragpad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> i think you are right now that you mention it but i cant find it,
> 
> yes they are different as they are backwards,


@Mega Man:

Thanks again for replying. Now, I am a little slow on the uptake; so, am I right about the AQ6 relay pinout, or the difference in pinouts between AQ6 and AQ5?


----------



## Mega Man

i think unless we will have to wait for shoggy to see if the manual is misprinted, but you are right about the layout being different from the aq5 according to the manual


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ragpad*
> 
> Guys:
> 
> As you all know, I am a newbie, mucking my way around many things around here. Thanks to you guys here, I am learning (or more aptly, so I hope!), despite my thick skull. Anyway, I have a couple of questions:
> 
> _Question #1_:
> 
> I vaguely recall that the Aquaero 6XT relay pinout was mislabeled and that @Shoggy (or someone else) posted the "correct" pinout for that relay somewhere. Unfortunately, I am unable to locate that particular post. Am I imagining that the AQ6 relay is mislabeled somewhere (heatsink, the self-adhesive label, _etc_.). If I am not smoking dope, then could you please provide me the correct pinout schematic for the AQ6 relay? If I am indeed hallucinating, then please tell me so.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . (I have also PM'ed @Shoggy on this just a few minutes ago, and I would ask on this forum, also.)
> 
> _Question #2_:
> 
> Is it possible to bookmark a specific post on this forum, for it will save a lot of time on search for the specifics?
> 
> Thanks very much in advance for all your help!


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> #1 to my knowledge it isnt mislabeled at all
> 
> #2 idk


I believe it is the A6 stick on label and the red heatsink that have the NO and NC contact position markings reversed.

They sorted it out with the black heatsink.

I just checked with a meter on my new one with the black heatsink, and the markings are correct, but compared to the red heatsink pictured in post 1824, the NC and NO positions are reversed.

Also just looked at my first A6's with the red heatsinks, and they have the center relay connection marked NC, where the black heatsink has it marked NO

Darlene


----------



## Jpmboy

does owning a 720XT Mk III count as having an aquaero?


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jpmboy*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> does owning a 720XT Mk III count as having an aquaero?


I don't see why not . . . . do they still have the 8mm tubing or is it all G1/4 now?

Darlene


----------



## Ragpad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> i think unless we will have to wait for shoggy to see if the manual is misprinted, but you are right about the layout being different from the aq5 according to the manual


@Mega Man:

Thank you!








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> I believe it is the A6 stick on label and the red heatsink that have the NO and NC contact position markings reversed.
> 
> They sorted it out with the black heatsink.
> 
> I just checked with a meter on my new one with the black heatsink, and the markings are correct, but compared to the red heatsink pictured in post 1824, the NC and NO positions are reversed.
> 
> Also just looked at my first A6's with the red heatsinks, and they have the center relay connection marked NC, where the black heatsink has it marked NO
> 
> Darlene


@IT Diva:

Darlene:

I thank you; I, for some reason, figured that you would use (if nothing else) your multimeter to ascertain the correct positions.
















So, on AQ6, Pin #1 is "Common," Pin #2 is "Normally Open," and Pin #3 is "Normally Closed." Have I got that correctly?


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ragpad*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> i think unless we will have to wait for shoggy to see if the manual is misprinted, but you are right about the layout being different from the aq5 according to the manual
> 
> 
> 
> @Mega Man:
> 
> Thank you!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> I believe it is the A6 stick on label and the red heatsink that have the NO and NC contact position markings reversed.
> 
> They sorted it out with the black heatsink.
> 
> I just checked with a meter on my new one with the black heatsink, and the markings are correct, but compared to the red heatsink pictured in post 1824, the NC and NO positions are reversed.
> 
> Also just looked at my first A6's with the red heatsinks, and they have the center relay connection marked NC, where the black heatsink has it marked NO
> 
> Darlene
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> @IT Diva:
> 
> Darlene:
> 
> I thank you; I, for some reason, figured that you would use (if nothing else) your multimeter to ascertain the correct positions.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So, on AQ6, Pin #1 is "Common," Pin #2 is "Normally Open," and Pin #3 is "Normally Closed." Have I got that correctly?
Click to expand...

Sort of depends on which way you go . . . L to R or R to L

A6 usually seems to go Left to Right, looking at the rear . . .

So #1 is NC, . . . #2 is NO, . . . #3 is COM


----------



## Ragpad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Sort of depends on which way you go . . . L to R or R to L
> 
> A6 usually seems to go Left to Right, looking at the rear . . .
> 
> So #1 is NC, . . . #2 is NO, . . . #3 is COM


Darlene:

Got it! You are the best; thanks, as always!














(It appears that the PDF manual is correct.)


----------



## Jpmboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> I don't see why not . . . . do they still have the 8mm tubing or is it all G1/4 now?
> 
> Darlene


Cool. Connectors are G1/4, push-to-connect fittings are 8mm/6mm. I added a Liang 3.25-1T boost pump since the 1st block is 1m above the eheim pump... does ~ 90L/h now. It's been running solid for 2 years (or is it longer? lol).


----------



## jtom320

I'm going to be receiving two Aquacomputer D5's and Aquero 6 XT pretty soon here.

Just wanted to ask if the XT will voltage control fans on the PWM pins? I have a bunch of Gentle Typhoons I'd like to control via voltage if possible.

I got a really good deal on this so I'll likely go through with it regardless but voltage control would make it that much better.


----------



## Ragpad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> Hiya. I have a 2 pump system and I'm running 1 of the pumps off my AQ6 directly, using one of the fan channels. The other runs off my power supply and sends an RPM signal to my motherboard. Both my pumps are just vario pumps with molex power connectors.
> 
> 80 fans is pretty much the maximum number of fans a single Aquaero can run on its own (~20 per channel). If you want to run both the pumps on the same unit as those 80 fans at the same time, you'll need the Aquabus pumps, which don't require a fan channel and get powered off the PSU while being controlled by the AQ. I find it unnecessary to have pwm control for my pumps, but for some setups it is certainly more ideal. Also, the Aquacomputer Aquabus D5s do have temperature sensor inputs. Personally, the $50 extra per fan AC wants for these pumps is too much, but for others it would be silly not to use them.
> 
> The waterblock isnt an exact fit... I'm not sure about that. I know for a fact you need to mount it on the separate heatsink AC sells, though. The heatsink is awesome, very stylish and functional.
> 
> As for other accessories--You might want to look at flow meters, I have a single AC 'high flow" meter that seems to work very well, _*although it doesn't come with the cable needed to make it work... must purchase separate or make yourself*_.
> They have a nice single RGB LED lighting module that is extremely bright that can be set to change color based on user settings like AQ CPU temp, but unfortunately the controller only supports one of these.
> More than likely you may be interested in more fan channels, which can be provided by the "Power adjust" add on modules.
> The relay output is for shutting off the system during alarm conditions, and requires a relay plug and a 24-pin ATX break cable, but this can also be accomplished using the software and USB connection, though it is a much slower effective process.
> If you aren't going to be connecting the AQ to the system with USB, you might also be interested in the Real-Time clock module.


@electr2u:

I am a little confused! The Aquacomputer "high-flow USB" flow-rate sensor does appear to come with the necessary cables. The "scope of delivery," according to Aquatuning is:
Extent of delivery:
One flow rate sensor
One internal USB connection cable
One aquabus / rpm signal cable (3-Pin)

Am I missing something here? Perhaps, you did not get the cables? If so, you might want to contact your vendor.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jtom320*
> 
> I'm going to be receiving two Aquacomputer D5's and Aquero 6 XT pretty soon here.
> 
> Just wanted to ask if the XT will voltage control fans on the PWM pins? I have a bunch of Gentle Typhoons I'd like to control via voltage if possible.
> 
> I got a really good deal on this so I'll likely go through with it regardless but voltage control would make it that much better.


sure thing. You just need to select what type of fan header do you want under advance settings in the Aquasuite/aquaero: power controlled, speed controlled or PWM.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ragpad*
> 
> @electr2u:
> 
> I am a little confused! The Aquacomputer "high-flow USB" flow-rate sensor does appear to come with the necessary cables. The "scope of delivery," according to Aquatuning is:
> Extent of delivery:
> One flow rate sensor
> One internal USB connection cable
> One aquabus / rpm signal cable (3-Pin)
> 
> Am I missing something here? Perhaps, you did not get the cables? If so, you might want to contact your vendor.


The usb version come with the cables the non-usb version does not come and it is a special 3 pin header in one end.

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/13694/bus-270/Aquacomputer_G14_Flow_Meter_Sensor_Block_-_Aquaero_Series_Poweradjust_Fan-O-Matic_Pro_Alphacool_Heatmaster_53068.html?id=iiXS2Mzb&mv_pc=1492


----------



## Ragpad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> sure thing. You just need to select what type of fan header do you want under advance settings in the Aquasuite/aquaero: power controlled, speed controlled or PWM.
> The usb version come with the cables the non-usb version does not come and it is a special 3 pin header in one end.
> 
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/13694/bus-270/Aquacomputer_G14_Flow_Meter_Sensor_Block_-_Aquaero_Series_Poweradjust_Fan-O-Matic_Pro_Alphacool_Heatmaster_53068.html?id=iiXS2Mzb&mv_pc=1492


@Gabrielzm:

Got it; thanks, mate!


----------



## Mega Man

if i woulda gone to my van today i woulda used my DMM
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jtom320*
> 
> I'm going to be receiving two Aquacomputer D5's and Aquero 6 XT pretty soon here.
> 
> Just wanted to ask if the XT will voltage control fans on the PWM pins? I have a bunch of Gentle Typhoons I'd like to control via voltage if possible.
> 
> I got a really good deal on this so I'll likely go through with it regardless but voltage control would make it that much better.


yes it will control both pwm, voltage or a mixture of both


----------



## Party3an

Hi guys. Can someone recommend me. A flow sensor from aquacomputer for my Aquaero 6 Pro?

I can't decide. Aquacomputer flow rate sensor "high flow USB" or not USB? Or maybe Aquacomputer flow rate sensor mps flow 400?

Best Regards


----------



## WHIMington

In order to avoid the same mistake I did a slight modification to the heatsink.












File it down using a round steel file, then sand it down with 300 and 600 CW sand paper. Add a thin coat of red spray paint which makes it look as good as new


----------



## Party3an

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WHIMington*
> 
> In order to avoid the same mistake I did a slight modification to the heatsink.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> File it down using a round steel file, then sand it down with 300 and 600 CW sand paper. Add a thin coat of red spray paint which makes it look as good as new


I had same problem some orange cap was standing out. Before tighten the screw i saw it already. I just slightly bent it with my finger to the left. And no problem.


----------



## Ragpad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ragpad*
> 
> Guys:
> 
> As you all know, I am a newbie, mucking my way around many things around here. Thanks to you guys here, I am learning (or more aptly, so I hope!), despite my thick skull. Anyway, I have a couple of questions:
> 
> _Question #1_:
> 
> I vaguely recall that the Aquaero 6XT relay pinout was mislabeled and that @Shoggy (or someone else) posted the "correct" pinout for that relay somewhere. Unfortunately, I am unable to locate that particular post. Am I imagining that the AQ6 relay is mislabeled somewhere (heatsink, the self-adhesive label, _etc_.). If I am not smoking dope, then could you please provide me the correct pinout schematic for the AQ6 relay? If I am indeed hallucinating, then please tell me so.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . (I have also PM'ed @Shoggy on this just a few minutes ago, and I would ask on this forum, also.)
> 
> _Question #2_:
> 
> Is it possible to bookmark a specific post on this forum, for it will save a lot of time on search for the specifics?
> 
> Thanks very much in advance for all your help!


Guys:

I have an update from @Shoggy on the correct pinout for the AQ6 relay. Here it is, which confirms @IT Diva's (Darlene) answer:

Hello,

have a look at this photo:



NC = normally connected
NO = normally open
COM = common connector


----------



## Mega Man

then my red HS and the manual is accurate


----------



## supermiguel

So how do you do the initial setup of a aquaero 5 LT? if you dont have windows yet? like brand new system? it just runs everything at max speed?


----------



## Mega Man

yep


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *supermiguel*
> 
> So how do you do the initial setup of a aquaero 5 LT? if you dont have windows yet? like brand new system? it just runs everything at max speed?


Or plug it into another working PC and do a basic setup. You don't need the actual hardware to change settings. You can set the min-max of each fan, and make a simple set point controller based on the delta of temp probes 1 and 2.

Oh, and if your pump is PWM with power directly from PSU, then you can set PWM model on channel 4 already to stop it running at 100%. Then, when you are building and leak testing, and you do want 100% pump, just disconnect the control wire


----------



## supermiguel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> Or plug it into another working PC and do a basic setup.


----------



## MeanBruce

Anyone tried using the A6 RGB LED inputs to power some monotone LEDs?

Could I power two 3mm white LEDs wired in parallel using just 3pins of the RGB 4pin connector, and adjust brightness from Aquasuite?

Thank you, any positive input is very welcomed.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *supermiguel*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> Or plug it into another working PC and do a basic setup.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
Click to expand...

then you are using the wrong fan controller nothing about the aq is quick,j although i can set mine up for basic use in ~ 5 min
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MeanBruce*
> 
> Anyone tried using the A6 RGB LED inputs to power some monotone LEDs?
> 
> Could I power two 3mm white LEDs wired in parallel using just 3pins of the RGB 4pin connector, and adjust brightness from Aquasuite?
> 
> Thank you, any positive input is very welcomed.


this is what the 2 pwm outputs are for ( the 2 2-pin )


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MeanBruce*
> 
> Anyone tried using the A6 RGB LED inputs to power some monotone LEDs?
> 
> Could I power two 3mm white LEDs wired in parallel using just 3pins of the RGB 4pin connector, and adjust brightness from Aquasuite?
> 
> Thank you, any positive input is very welcomed.


Yes, you could. Its in the manual.

4.11. Connector „RGB LED"
Connector for up to three LEDs or one two-color or RGB illumination module
(not included in delivery). High brightness LEDs (3-4 V, 20 mA) may be connected
without series resistor, a series resistor is built into the aquaero.

As MegaMan says the PWM outputs would be better for that though.


----------



## WHIMington

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> Yes, I'm sure, but you said "radiator inlet temperature" which can mean two things. I didn't want to assume.
> 
> A large chunk of my post above disappeared because I was working from a mobile device which is why it doesn't make a lot of sense.
> 
> Rad air inlet temp is great to use, you just have to be careful with sensor placement because it is very easy for them to be corrupted by exhaust air and radiant heat. I found in my system the best way was to use at least two air sensors and compare them into one. Then it needs to be tested by running the system up to load while charting the inlet temp. If it climbs with load it is being corrupted and needs attention.


I think of this a bit and figured out what might be my setup, both 240 and 360 rad will have sensor at water inlet and outlet to monitor delta T of the rads while 140 at the rear only have water inlet temperature because the outlet is directly connected to 360 water inlet, the top 360 will have 3 lip senser right underneath the fans and above the rads to get air inlet temperatures and the average of these 3 will be used to creat fan speed curves against the water temperatures, since both my top 360 and rear 140 only have push fans and the bottom have p/p, I will have the the push only fans as well as a front case fan on a single channel and the bottom p/p on another channel, then I will use the top 360 and bottom 240 water outlet temperature and the air intake temperature to port the fan speed curves for each chennels.

Would that make sense?

edit: New question just comes in mind, I have the High flow USB flow sensor, the one that was not direct RPM feed and have the MPS circuit board, my questions is

a) is the internal mechanical parts same as the non USB high flows?

b) if so, can I read direct RPM from the sensor?


----------



## MeanBruce

The two 2pin PWM ports with the 16k pulse wave are the best way to control 3mm LEDs?

The LEDs are just simple DC, not certain why they need a PWM signal.

Performance PCs is asking if I want the LEDs with a 2-pin or 3-pin connector.

Thanks guys...


----------



## Nichismo

Man I love my Aquaero, but I seriously am overwhelmed with the amount of features, I cant even possibly be using even a quarter of its full capabilities. Its somewhat difficult for me to get head on detail for certain issues. So many of these inputs are completely foreign to me

_-like what is the RGB vs IR LED mean?

-is the relay supposed to be something that I can hook up to in order to have control of it through the Aquaero? I have been meaning to order a PC remote start kit from frozenCPU, but I am not sure if the Aquaero already has something for that.

-I currently have one Poweradjust 3 ultra thats powering both of my MCP35Xs. Is it mandatory that I hook it up to the aquabus header? and what is the high and low for? Is there any way to have these displayed in the "pumps" section rather than another fan?

-what is the overrite outputs directly option for?

-What are all the immense options for the PC on and off actions? i mean obviously i get an idea judging by their titles, but still, I have no idea where to begin.

-What are the virtual and software sensors?

-What are the curve, set and two point controllers?

-NO and NC COM?_

Im sure some (or most, if not ALL) of these questions are pretty bone-headed, but if anyone could provide me any help or direction, I would really appreciate it. I especially enjoy the fact that the Aquaero has infrared and the remote capabilties, my rig serves as a media center very often, and I control it away from my desk alot. So any features associated with that that I may potentially be unaware of, please let me know









thanks so much


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WHIMington*
> 
> I think of this a bit and figured out what might be my setup, both 240 and 360 rad will have sensor at water inlet and outlet to monitor delta T of the rads while 140 at the rear only have water inlet temperature because the outlet is directly connected to 360 water inlet, the top 360 will have 3 lip senser right underneath the fans and above the rads to get air inlet temperatures and the average of these 3 will be used to creat fan speed curves against the water temperatures, since both my top 360 and rear 140 only have push fans and the bottom have p/p, I will have the the push only fans as well as a front case fan on a single channel and the bottom p/p on another channel, then I will use the top 360 and bottom 240 water outlet temperature and the air intake temperature to port the fan speed curves for each chennels.
> 
> Would that make sense?
> 
> edit: New question just comes in mind, I have the High flow USB flow sensor, the one that was not direct RPM feed and have the MPS circuit board, my questions is
> 
> a) is the internal mechanical parts same as the non USB high flows?
> 
> b) if so, can I read direct RPM from the sensor?


Yep that should work fine. Just be sure to test it to see if the air inlet temp is affected by the radiant heat of the rads seeing as the sensors will be so close, under the fans like that. You may find that the sensor needs to be farther from the rad ... especially at low RPM's.
If that happens its possible that the system and water keep slowly rising but the fans don't speed up.
The other thing to watch out for is gaps or holes in the case around where the rad is located. Even a small hole can mean air is blown in through the rad and sucked straight back out again to go through the rad again. Throwing the sensors off and reducing rad effectiveness.

The High flow USB meter uses the same mechanical parts as the non USB but its RPM signal is connected to the MPS board ... the same way the USB D5 pumps have their RPM connected. You could rewire it but it would just sort of defeat the purpose of buying the USB version.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MeanBruce*
> 
> The two 2pin PWM ports with the 16k pulse wave are the best way to control 3mm LEDs?
> 
> The LEDs are just simple DC, not certain why they need a PWM signal.
> 
> Performance PCs is asking if I want the LEDs with a 2-pin or 3-pin connector.
> 
> Thanks guys...


The twin PWM headers are good for controlling multiple LED's or strips just because they have a much higher power output ... up to 1 amp. Whereas the RGB header will only run a single or pair of LED's. That's all.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nichismo*
> 
> Man I love my Aquaero, but I seriously am overwhelmed with the amount of features, I cant even possibly be using even a quarter of its full capabilities. Its somewhat difficult for me to get head on detail for certain issues. So many of these inputs are completely foreign to me
> 
> _-like what is the RGB vs IR LED mean?
> 
> -is the relay supposed to be something that I can hook up to in order to have control of it through the Aquaero? I have been meaning to order a PC remote start kit from frozenCPU, but I am not sure if the Aquaero already has something for that.
> 
> -I currently have one Poweradjust 3 ultra thats powering both of my MCP35Xs. Is it mandatory that I hook it up to the aquabus header? and what is the high and low for? Is there any way to have these displayed in the "pumps" section rather than another fan?_
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> _-what is the overrite outputs directly option for?
> 
> -What are all the immense options for the PC on and off actions? i mean obviously i get an idea judging by their titles, but still, I have no idea where to begin.
> 
> -What are the virtual and software sensors?
> 
> -What are the curve, set and two point controllers?
> 
> -NO and NC COM?_
> 
> 
> 
> Im sure some (or most, if not ALL) of these questions are pretty bone-headed, but if anyone could provide me any help or direction, I would really appreciate it. I especially enjoy the fact that the Aquaero has infrared and the remote capabilties, my rig serves as a media center very often, and I control it away from my desk alot. So any features associated with that that I may potentially be unaware of, please let me know
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> thanks so much


The RGB header is for controlling a single RGB variable colour LED using a special controller type in Aquasuite that can vary the colour based on temps or some other input.
The IR LED is for connecting an Infrared LED that can be used for forwarding remote control signals from the Aquaero to other devices like a home theater setup.

You really shouldn't have a poweradjust powering your 35X pumps. Swiftech has said the voltage controlling a PWM pump can potentially be bad for its motor because its electronics are designed to recieve a steady 12V ... Plus you would surely be giving up some of the controllability that PWM versions of the DDC give over the DC voltage types. It must be very close to the maximum power for a single PA3 too.

Virtual sensors are a sensor that you create using two or more physical sensors. For example; My fans run based on a virtual sensor called Air/water delta. The Air intake temp is sensed with one physical sensor and water temp with a second. The Delta sensor is the difference between those sensors.
There are several ways to compare sensors to create a virtual sensor including the average, difference, whichever is highest and so on.

Software sensors are values imported from other software such as open hardware monitor ... so for example the core temp of your CPU.
They rely on the PC to be running though so aren't the best choice for reliable controls.

The rest you will figure out by reading the manual carefully as you play around with the software. When I got mine the manual was practically non existent and we had to teach ourselves by trial and error. It is better these days.

Virtual sensors and Curve controllers are your main friends in my opinion when it comes to controlling fans.


----------



## MeanBruce

Thanks man +rep, I'm only trying to illuminate an EK plexi CPU block with two small LEDs so I'll use the RGB LED port, and save the 2 PWM ports for LED light strips.

Found the pin diagram in the manual.

Maybe I can find some 3mm RGB LEDs and set to indicate a CPU thermal threshold or maybe a set of thresholds.

I love the Aquaero 6 XT and the AquaComputer Aquabus D5.









.


----------



## pathfindercod

Finally pictures of my Aquaero 6xt in my case labs s8.. Extremely close to completion of this build. Maybe I can join the club now with pictures finally.

http://s363.photobucket.com/user/pathfindercod/media/_DSC0060_zpse771742a.jpg.html

http://s363.photobucket.com/user/pathfindercod/media/_DSC0079_zpsafd959bd.jpg.html

http://s363.photobucket.com/user/pathfindercod/media/_DSC0073_zps1d1b365f.jpg.html

A link to the build with other pics for anyone interested.
http://www.overclock.net/t/1496953/build-log-case-labs-mercury-s8-triple-threat/100


----------



## WHIMington

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> The High flow USB meter uses the same mechanical parts as the non USB but its RPM signal is connected to the MPS board ... the same way the USB D5 pumps have their RPM connected. You could rewire it but it would just sort of defeat the purpose of buying the USB version.


In that case, I want to use the flow sensor to calibrate a mps flow200/400. If the RPM can be read directly and the internal mechanisms is the same I will already have a good flow calibration unit at hand.


----------



## failwheeldrive

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pathfindercod*
> 
> Finally pictures of my Aquaero 6xt in my case labs s8.. Extremely close to completion of this build. Maybe I can join the club now with pictures finally.
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> http://s363.photobucket.com/user/pathfindercod/media/_DSC0060_zpse771742a.jpg.html
> 
> http://s363.photobucket.com/user/pathfindercod/media/_DSC0079_zpsafd959bd.jpg.html
> 
> http://s363.photobucket.com/user/pathfindercod/media/_DSC0073_zps1d1b365f.jpg.html
> 
> 
> A link to the build with other pics for anyone interested.
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1496953/build-log-case-labs-mercury-s8-triple-threat/100


Beautiful pics


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nichismo*
> 
> Man I love my Aquaero, but I seriously am overwhelmed with the amount of features, I cant even possibly be using even a quarter of its full capabilities. Its somewhat difficult for me to get head on detail for certain issues. So many of these inputs are completely foreign to me
> 
> _-like what is the RGB vs IR LED mean?
> 
> -is the relay supposed to be something that I can hook up to in order to have control of it through the Aquaero? I have been meaning to order a PC remote start kit from frozenCPU, but I am not sure if the Aquaero already has something for that.
> 
> -I currently have one Poweradjust 3 ultra thats powering both of my MCP35Xs. Is it mandatory that I hook it up to the aquabus header? and what is the high and low for? Is there any way to have these displayed in the "pumps" section rather than another fan?
> 
> -what is the overrite outputs directly option for?
> 
> -What are all the immense options for the PC on and off actions? i mean obviously i get an idea judging by their titles, but still, I have no idea where to begin.
> 
> -What are the virtual and software sensors?
> 
> -What are the curve, set and two point controllers?
> 
> -NO and NC COM?_
> 
> Im sure some (or most, if not ALL) of these questions are pretty bone-headed, but if anyone could provide me any help or direction, I would really appreciate it. I especially enjoy the fact that the Aquaero has infrared and the remote capabilties, my rig serves as a media center very often, and I control it away from my desk alot. So any features associated with that that I may potentially be unaware of, please let me know
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> thanks so much


i will break this down i was on mobile and it is a pain now that i am home i will
the guy who replied is right but i think i can help too so i will
Quote:


> like what is the RGB vs IR LED mean?


RGB is a RGB LED output very very very weak (can not power many) IIRC ~ 30-40ma

IR LED is infrared for remote forwarding this is more toward HTPCs you can use the aq to control tvs, vcrs, dvds ect but the accessory although highly anticipated is not out yet
Quote:


> -is the relay supposed to be something that I can hook up to in order to have control of it through the Aquaero? I have been meaning to order a PC remote start kit from frozenCPU, but I am not sure if the Aquaero already has something for that.


it is already in the board, you either need a connector for it
http://shop.aquacomputer.de/product_info.php?products_id=1629 ( i dont recommend this one as the 3 pin is not much more )
http://shop.aquacomputer.de/product_info.php?products_id=2665
or i have seen people use wire terminals and just wire them in

you can control it with buttons if you program it to or have the aq do it automatically when needed ( many many ways to do it alarms, temps ect )
you dont need that kit you can just interrupt the green wire in the 24pin connector ( if not colored ( all black wires ) you can google 24pin looks at a diagram and find PSon

if you want to be able to turn the pc on you will also need to interupt a black wire and i can help you with wiring.

with that said you may not want to mod the OEM wiring ( meaning cut it ) on your psu so that kit is the best option

personally the aq5 had a 2 pin connector like your mobo for the power switch, i am really bummed that was removed from the aq6, idk if they did it due to lack of use or space, but i am disappointed frankly although it is a great controller with tons of features, i cant believe they would remove that one although i would understand if they did it as there was no room for the traces
Quote:


> -I currently have one Poweradjust 3 ultra thats powering both of my MCP35Xs. Is it mandatory that I hook it up to the aquabus header? and what is the high and low for? Is there any way to have these displayed in the "pumps" section rather than another fan?


to answer your question directly you will need to hook it up to the aquabus if you want the aq to control it, you can hook it up via usb if you want to control it separately.

you wont be able to use any of the temp sensors ( hardware ) on the aq to control the poweradj ( i believe i dont use this so i could be wrong )
high and low are 2 different aquabus, basically the high adds 5v to it but the low is outdated and from what i have seen you wont use it, if you need to you would know, it is used for the multiswitch and the tubemeter both of which are discontinued there may be more accessories that use it but i dont believe there are

no you may not display them on the pump section. you would have to buy usb pumps from aqua computer for this to happen and plug them into the aquabus ( which can be daisy chained btw )

but as already stated you should not run them from the power adj.

what i do as i want my pumps ( 4 ) to run all the same rpm is use this cable
http://www.swiftech.com/PWMsplittercable.aspx ( or one i have made myself and run the RPM of the 2nd/3rd/4th to mobo headers for monitoring ( and set alarms if any fail ) ) { hey the mobo headers need to serve some function right ? all i use mine for is RPM monitoring }
you can also use this ( and you wouldnt need to power it as the pumps provide power independently ( or used to if you modded it ) ) or the fat 4 pin version would work as well
http://www.swiftech.com/8-WayPWMsplitter-sata.aspx
http://www.swiftech.com/8-WayPWMsplitter.aspx
but you can not independently monitor the RPMS of each pump only the one plugged into the red port
Quote:


> -what is the overrite outputs directly option for?


not well versed in this but it is so other programs can write to the output ( open or closed ) to my understanding, but i could be very wrong
Quote:


> -What are all the immense options for the PC on and off actions? i mean obviously i get an idea judging by their titles, but still, I have no idea where to begin.


you can turn the pc off /sleep ect by pressing a keyboard button ( it uses the usb to send to the pc a keyboard button in usb speak )
the other way to do this is by relay but it is a bit more complicated, again i can help if you are interested and it involves the relay unless you have the aq 5
-What are the virtual and software sensors?
as stated software are sensors read by a program and the data is sent to the aq ( HWmonitor, aida64, hwinfo )

virtual sensors are fake sensors that are used to make new readings, you can use hardware sensors ( the temp sensors you plug into the AQ), sensors on the aq itself ( click the sensor tab, all the sensors in the "temperature sensor tab ) or software sensors (*see above explanation ) .

with these you can take up to 3 sensors and use highest value, lowest value, average value, temp difference or absolute temp diff, from those 2-3 temp sensors you chose ( hardware or software )
Quote:


> -What are the curve, set and two point controllers?


see the manual but
cure is just a custom fan cure you can program ( if you need i can go into further detail )
setpoint is it will turn on to what ever percent ( on or off ( at the preset speed/percent ) depending on what you are controlling ) at that setpoint
two point controller you have 2 setpoints that you can control from one data source ( on AND off at these settings )
Quote:


> -NO and NC COM?


Normally open, normally connected ( known mostly as Normally closed ) or common for the relay
( see http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Relay pole and throw ) feel free to ask me any questions, on this if you dont understand )
Quote:


> Im sure some (or most, if not ALL) of these questions are pretty bone-headed, but if anyone could provide me any help or direction, I would really appreciate it. I especially enjoy the fact that the Aquaero has infrared and the remote capabilties, my rig serves as a media center very often, and I control it away from my desk alot. So any features associated with that that I may potentially be unaware of, please let me know


not at all ! the only stupid question is the one not asked! ( other great question related quotes in sig )

you know the remote can be used as mouse/keyboard right ?

this helped me alot, after the aquaero part is the aquasuite manual
http://aquacomputer.de/handbuecher.html?file=tl_files/aquacomputer/downloads/manuals/aquaero_5_6_en_2014_04_14.pdf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MeanBruce*
> 
> Thanks man +rep, I'm only trying to illuminate an EK plexi CPU block with two small LEDs so I'll use the RGB LED port, and save the 2 PWM ports for LED light strips.
> 
> Found the pin diagram in the manual.
> 
> Maybe I can find some 3mm RGB LEDs and set to indicate a CPU thermal threshold or maybe a set of thresholds.
> 
> I love the Aquaero 6 XT and the AquaComputer Aquabus D5.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


be careful there are ways to make it control a led strip too *(rgb i mean ) make sure to get the right one ( anode or cathode )

anyway they sell a acc for that actually

http://shop.aquacomputer.de/product_info.php?products_id=2664


----------



## electro2u

I was skeptical about the AC RGB module but it is very powerful LED. Much brighter than any other single led I have. I ordered another and I'm going to try to run them both off the aq6 in the two fill ports on the top of my bay res.


----------



## Nichismo

thank you so much Mega, i really appreciate your help!

If you dont mind, id like to contact you soon in regards to the relay and such about setup

and I really enjoy using the keyboard on the remote, however Im having issues with the mousepad

I have the Aq 6 XT btw


----------



## pathfindercod

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *failwheeldrive*
> 
> Beautiful pics


Thank you!


----------



## iBored

I'm a little confused. Do I connect my pump pwm to rpm on the bottom right corner, or as a fan on the aq6?


----------



## Party3an

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iBored*
> 
> I'm a little confused. Do I connect my pump pwm to rpm on the bottom right corner, or as a fan on the aq6?


To a fan if it is not AC d5 usb.
If it is not pwm you will just monitor rpm.
It will be like a fan in aquasuite.


----------



## iBored

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Party3an*
> 
> To a fan if it is not AC d5 usb.
> If it is not pwm you will just monitor rpm.
> It will be like a fan in aquasuite.


Thanks for the reply, but I don't get what you mean.
It might have helped if I told you I'm running the aqc d5 pump. Just a Molex connector and a pwm fan header.
Appreciate the help!


----------



## electro2u

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iBored*
> 
> Thanks for the reply, but I don't get what you mean.
> It might have helped if I told you I'm running the aqc d5 pump. Just a Molex connector and a pwm fan header.
> Appreciate the help!


Hiya. Connect the molex to your psu or to a molex to 3-pin fan adapter and plug it in to a fan channel on the AQ6. Run the rpm wire to your motherboard CPU fan header. If you want to control the pump with the aquaero you have to use a molex to fan connector adapter or redo the wiring.


----------



## iBored

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> Hiya. Connect the molex to your psu or to a molex to 3-pin fan adapter and plug it in to a fan channel on the AQ6. Run the rpm wire to your motherboard CPU fan header. If you want to control the pump with the aquaero you have to use a molex to fan connector adapter or redo the wiring.


Thanks for the answer!
But dang. I've gotta redo the cables.. what a bummer.

What if I set the speed to 2, and only wanted to monitor the rpm?
And also, I'm having trouble turning the speed knob. Haha


----------



## electro2u

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iBored*
> 
> Thanks for the answer!
> But dang. I've gotta redo the cables.. what a bummer.
> 
> What if I set the speed to 2, and only wanted to monitor the rpm?
> And also, I'm having trouble turning the speed knob. Haha


Yep that's a good solution too. I haven't found a way to monitor the pump rpm using the aquaero on pumps like you and I have. Plugging the rpm wire to your CPU fan header (or any mobo fan header) will allow you to monitor the pump though. Then you can set the software to shut down the system if that rpm signal is lost.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nichismo*
> 
> thank you so much Mega, i really appreciate your help!
> 
> If you dont mind, id like to contact you soon in regards to the relay and such about setup
> 
> and I really enjoy using the keyboard on the remote, however Im having issues with the mousepad
> 
> I have the Aq 6 XT btw


np any time, the mouse takes some getting used to you have to hold it down for it to move or tap..... allot
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iBored*
> 
> I'm a little confused. Do I connect my pump pwm to rpm on the bottom right corner, or as a fan on the aq6?


you can plug in the fat 4 pin
and then run the 3pin/4pin fan plug to the aq to a fan header
if you plug it in to the RPM you may damage the rpm header i would need to look at the pinouts
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Party3an*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *iBored*
> 
> I'm a little confused. Do I connect my pump pwm to rpm on the bottom right corner, or as a fan on the aq6?
> 
> 
> 
> To a fan if it is not AC d5 usb.
> If it is not pwm you will just monitor rpm.
> It will be like a fan in aquasuite.
Click to expand...

you can plug in the fat 4 pin
and then run the 3pin/4pin fan plug to the aq to a fan header
or to your mobo
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *iBored*
> 
> Thanks for the answer!
> But dang. I've gotta redo the cables.. what a bummer.
> 
> What if I set the speed to 2, and only wanted to monitor the rpm?
> And also, I'm having trouble turning the speed knob. Haha
> 
> 
> 
> Yep that's a good solution too. I haven't found a way to monitor the pump rpm using the aquaero on pumps like you and I have. Plugging the rpm wire to your CPU fan header (or any mobo fan header) will allow you to monitor the pump though. Then you can set the software to shut down the system if that rpm signal is lost.
Click to expand...

this is what i would recommend or an aq slave


----------



## Malpractis

Look what just showed up







6XT

Diva could you please add me to the list?


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Malpractis*
> 
> 
> 
> Look what just showed up
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 6XT
> 
> Diva could you please add me to the list?


Added . . .


----------



## badkarma3059

I just realized that I never asked to be added to this list











here is my 900D wearing a 6XT


----------



## supermiguel

With a passive heatsink will the 6 support more than 30w per channel? Need 32


----------



## VSG

Seeing how the stock controller is at 10w/channel, there is no way the heatsink automatically triples it.


----------



## supermiguel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Seeing how the stock controller is at 10w/channel, there is no way the heatsink automatically triples it.


That cant be right im pretty sure is 30w per channel

Look http://www.frozencpu.com/products/13215/bus-259/Aquacomputer_Aquaero_6_XT_USB_Fan_Controller_Touch_Screen_Graphic_LCD_Liquid_System_Controller_w_Remote_53146.html says 30w per channel


----------



## VSG

Ugh you are right, it can do 30 W/channel by itself.


----------



## supermiguel

So should be fine 32-34 with heatsink?


----------



## VSG

How did you arrive at that number? Did you account for some extra wattage for start up boost if valid for your devices?


----------



## supermiguel

Not really but im sure the chip supports the spike. I got to that number each of my fans uses 1.32w and need 24 in the same channel thats 31.68w


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *supermiguel*
> 
> Not really but im sure the chip supports the spike. I got to that number each of my fans uses 1.32w and need 24 in the same channel thats 31.68w


I'm thinking that Shoggy said if you use the water block, you can go to 36W per channel . . . but that's a crapload of work to go to . . .

I'd try adding the finned passive heatsink for the 5 series to the 6 series passive heatsink first and see if it works OK.

That would be a lot easier all around.

It would look like this . . . be sure to use appropriate TIM:



Darlene


----------



## supermiguel

Also im guessing the 1.32watts per fan is at full speed? Lower speeds means less voltage = less watts


----------



## badkarma3059

You could always run two aquaeros


----------



## supermiguel

Ok just connected all the fans to a power supply, 24 of them are pulling about ~2.466 so thats 29.59 watts and it keeps dropping


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *supermiguel*
> 
> With a passive heatsink will the 6 support more than 30w per channel? Need 32


http://forum.aquacomputer.de/weitere-foren/english-forum/103573-new-aquaero-6/
Quote:


> The maximum current per channel is 2,5A (30W at 12V) without any special cooling. The aquaero 6 does not even have a passive heatsink! Anyway, we will also offer a waterblock for the aquaero 6 since it will allow to go a bit further with a maximum of 3A (36W at 12V). Of course the voltage regulators also handle short peaks above this rating to make sure that fans and pumps will spin up












That said, I personally wouldn't load that much up each channel. You might want to consider adding a PowerAdjust 3 for another 30W channel (36W with available heatsink).


----------



## WHIMington

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *supermiguel*
> 
> Ok just connected all the fans to a power supply, 24 of them are pulling about ~2.466 so thats 29.59 watts and it keeps dropping


Just wants to know, what is your setups? Having to load 24 fans at each channel is a very extreme setup.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Looks like supermiguel's trying to fill up a TX10-V w/ ten 480 Monstas:

[Sponsored] Super Monster
http://www.overclock.net/t/1508183/sponsored-super-monster/


----------



## badkarma3059

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Looks like supermiguel's trying to fill up a TX10-V w/ ten 480 Monstas:
> 
> [Sponsored] Super Monster
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1508183/sponsored-super-monster/


yeah, been following that. He has a lot of planning that needs to be done and even more work. Not to mention a forklift rental


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Looks like supermiguel's trying to fill up a TX10-V w/ ten 480 Monstas:
> 
> [Sponsored] Super Monster
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1508183/sponsored-super-monster/


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *badkarma3059*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Looks like supermiguel's trying to fill up a TX10-V w/ ten 480 Monstas:
> 
> [Sponsored] Super Monster
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1508183/sponsored-super-monster/
> 
> 
> 
> yeah, been following that. He has a lot of planning that needs to be done and even more work. Not to mention a forklift rental
Click to expand...

Yea, He's embarked on an incredibly ambitious project, and it appears as if relevant large scale experience is in short supply . . . . .

Further, he's got a lot of goooogly eyed newbies following, and their feedback can be counterproductive, so he needs to make use of the experience level that a lot of us here have gained.

@Miguel, we're here to help man.

A lot of us are serious nerds or engineers who can offer well reasoned input.

Darlene


----------



## Mega Man

o i needed that laugh thanks IT Diva as usual epic !


----------



## WHIMington

That builds of his......I am in equal awe and fear at the same time, but since I think he is using flexible tubes, that actually takes out a lots of problems(my acrylic rigid tubing built is 80% towards finish and man did it takes a lots of trial and errors, even for someone who have experience with CRS and aluminium tubes its like a new world for me), I do have doubts with the pump of choose though.

Then again, if it is worth doing, it is worth overdoing.


----------



## siffonen

Is it normal that when i set my fans to 100% aquaero shows voltage being 11.6V? Slight voltage drop is normal, but is 0.4V?


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *siffonen*
> 
> Is it normal that when i set my fans to 100% aquaero shows voltage being 11.6V? Slight voltage drop is normal, but is 0.4V?


I think this previous discussion might apply to your question as well ....
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *nyck*
> 
> In the aquasuite softwere in the fan output I can decrese the value (11,8v, 11,6v 11,4v, ecc) but i can not pass 12V.
> 
> 
> 
> You have to expect a little bit of voltage drop when using any controller, typically about a half a volt to 0.7V, below the PSU output voltage because of the internal loss in the silicon.
> 
> You'll always get a little more voltage / RPM when connected directly to the PSU.
> 
> 500 RPM seems like rather a lot though . . . might want to check the cables for poor contact / crimps or too small a wire gage.
> 
> You could be getting some V drop there too.
> 
> Darlene
Click to expand...


----------



## supermiguel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *badkarma3059*
> 
> yeah, been following that. He has a lot of planning that needs to be done and even more work. Not to mention a forklift rental


im closer than u think









im moving on November 1st so that forklift rental is closer than u think


----------



## badkarma3059

Hopefully you are not too close. I would hate to see you race through the build just for the sake of completing it.remember this is obsessive compulsive.net. with a build like yours, its the attention to detail that makes it shine.


----------



## VSG

Oh yes! I had a bunch of updates in the first few weeks of my TX10 build and now pacing things to make sure I got everything planned out. Sponsorships are a dual edged sword- you want to make sure the parts/services obtained are properly used; especially if you need to review them as well.


----------



## supermiguel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *badkarma3059*
> 
> Hopefully you are not too close. I would hate to see you race through the build just for the sake of completing it.remember this is obsessive compulsive.net. with a build like yours, its the attention to detail that makes it shine.


closer to the forklift rental not finishing the build







i think i still have a bit to go


----------



## WHIMington

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *badkarma3059*
> 
> Hopefully you are not too close. I would hate to see you race through the build just for the sake of completing it.remember this is obsessive compulsive.net. with a build like yours, its the attention to detail that makes it shine.


Wait, I always though it was over-engineered complication.net


----------



## rolldog

Question regarding the Aquaero XT:

I'm currently in the process of installing my first water cooling system, and I've been looking at every controller on the market. After talking with people and explaining what I want, everyone's answer has been to get an Aquaero controller. So, save myself some time, I thought I would come here to get a final answer and to find out exactly what accessories I need for the Aquaero 6 XT.

Like I said, this is my first custom watercooling system I've built, so I want to make sure I get everything right and have everything I need before hooking it up. This is my work computer that I've recently upgraded, and I travel a good bit. When I'm on the road, I need to be able to access information on my computer from wherever I am, which requires my computer to be running 24/7, but one of my concerns is I don't want something to go wrong with my watercooling system if I'm out of town. If something does go wrong, like a water leak or evaporation (I'm not sure how common this is), the water flow drops, the temperature rises, etc, I want my computer to be able to recognize this itself and shut itself down to avoid further damage if I'm not going to be back home for another week.

Looking at the Aquaero 6 XT and some of its features and add ons, like the flow sensors, temperature sensors, etc., what would you guys recommend I get?

Money isn't really an issue, I want to know if this controller will do this for me, and if so, what additional accessories do I need for it, to hook into my loop, so it can monitor everything and shut itself down if something isn't working right? I would hate to come home to a burned up computer. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

Sent from my SM-T800 using Tapatalk


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rolldog*
> 
> Question regarding the Aquaero XT:
> 
> I'm currently in the process of installing my first water cooling system, and I've been looking at every controller on the market. After talking with people and explaining what I want, everyone's answer has been to get an Aquaero controller. So, save myself some time, I thought I would come here to get a final answer and to find out exactly what accessories I need for the Aquaero 6 XT.
> 
> Like I said, this is my first custom watercooling system I've built, so I want to make sure I get everything right and have everything I need before hooking it up. This is my work computer that I've recently upgraded, and I travel a good bit. When I'm on the road, I need to be able to access information on my computer from wherever I am, which requires my computer to be running 24/7, but one of my concerns is I don't want something to go wrong with my watercooling system if I'm out of town. If something does go wrong, like a water leak or evaporation (I'm not sure how common this is), the water flow drops, the temperature rises, etc, I want my computer to be able to recognize this itself and shut itself down to avoid further damage if I'm not going to be back home for another week.
> 
> Looking at the Aquaero 6 XT and some of its features and add ons, like the flow sensors, temperature sensors, etc., what would you guys recommend I get?
> 
> Money isn't really an issue, I want to know if this controller will do this for me, and if so, what additional accessories do I need for it, to hook into my loop, so it can monitor everything and shut itself down if something isn't working right? I would hate to come home to a burned up computer. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
> 
> Sent from my SM-T800 using Tapatalk


The aquaero and aquacomputer acessories have an option to shut down in case of leak. There are a couple of possibilities here but probably the most accurate would be to use a pressure sensor to recognize the fill level on the reservoir. Some Aquacomputer reservoirs have a fill level already on it. Then you can use the aquaero/aquasuite to program a shut down but I never did that myself. Will involve a little bit of planning and digging the info.

EDIT- BTW, fill level is your best bet to detect anything wrong in the loop remotely. A small leak will not affect liquid flow or temperature much but will affect the fill level in the reservoir.


----------



## LostParticle

Hello, nice to meet you









I have an Aquaero 5 LT

Can you please add me ?

Thanks


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rolldog*
> 
> Question regarding the Aquaero XT:
> 
> I'm currently in the process of installing my first water cooling system, and I've been looking at every controller on the market. After talking with people and explaining what I want, everyone's answer has been to get an Aquaero controller. So, save myself some time, I thought I would come here to get a final answer and to find out exactly what accessories I need for the Aquaero 6 XT.
> 
> Like I said, this is my first custom watercooling system I've built, so I want to make sure I get everything right and have everything I need before hooking it up. This is my work computer that I've recently upgraded, and I travel a good bit. When I'm on the road, I need to be able to access information on my computer from wherever I am, which requires my computer to be running 24/7, but one of my concerns is I don't want something to go wrong with my watercooling system if I'm out of town. If something does go wrong, like a water leak or evaporation (I'm not sure how common this is), the water flow drops, the temperature rises, etc, I want my computer to be able to recognize this itself and shut itself down to avoid further damage if I'm not going to be back home for another week.
> 
> Looking at the Aquaero 6 XT and some of its features and add ons, like the flow sensors, temperature sensors, etc., what would you guys recommend I get?
> 
> Money isn't really an issue, I want to know if this controller will do this for me, and if so, what additional accessories do I need for it, to hook into my loop, so it can monitor everything and shut itself down if something isn't working right? I would hate to come home to a burned up computer. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
> 
> Sent from my SM-T800 using Tapatalk


there is only one really crappy leak detector on the market

so no good way for this, if your smart though you wont have any issues, watercooling is more of a hobby then air, more time involved in maint. you dont just blow out the rads ( heatsinks ) you have to top off every few months to 2 years depending on size/type of tubing and size of the loops clean the loop every now and then ect

larger loops like mine evap quick as there is more ( much more in my case ) to evap from

thicker tubes longer you go. acylic does not have this issue but take a long time to run and you still have evap just not from the tubes.

i have been running water for well over 5 years not including when i first got into it.

not once have i had a leak that killed something when the pc was running. i did loose a mobo while leak testing but only as the water shorted the bios battery and when you run quadfire you can not remove said battery but even then i bought ins for that board so no loss. ( also was a small leak and i didnt find it for hours so the lower portion of the board did have a great bath )

be smart leack check and no issues 99% of the time

as to flow ect yes this controller rocks, when/if you set up let me know and i can help you


----------



## WHIMington

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rolldog*
> 
> Question regarding the Aquaero XT:
> 
> I'm currently in the process of installing my first water cooling system, and I've been looking at every controller on the market. After talking with people and explaining what I want, everyone's answer has been to get an Aquaero controller. So, save myself some time, I thought I would come here to get a final answer and to find out exactly what accessories I need for the Aquaero 6 XT.
> 
> Like I said, this is my first custom watercooling system I've built, so I want to make sure I get everything right and have everything I need before hooking it up. This is my work computer that I've recently upgraded, and I travel a good bit. When I'm on the road, I need to be able to access information on my computer from wherever I am, which requires my computer to be running 24/7, but one of my concerns is I don't want something to go wrong with my watercooling system if I'm out of town. If something does go wrong, like a water leak or evaporation (I'm not sure how common this is), the water flow drops, the temperature rises, etc, I want my computer to be able to recognize this itself and shut itself down to avoid further damage if I'm not going to be back home for another week.
> 
> Looking at the Aquaero 6 XT and some of its features and add ons, like the flow sensors, temperature sensors, etc., what would you guys recommend I get?
> 
> Money isn't really an issue, I want to know if this controller will do this for me, and if so, what additional accessories do I need for it, to hook into my loop, so it can monitor everything and shut itself down if something isn't working right? I would hate to come home to a burned up computer. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
> 
> Sent from my SM-T800 using Tapatalk


If hard disk data is the only thing you need to access then I suggest you simply use one of those stand alone cloud server, less points of failure IMO, but if you really wants a care free 24/7 custom loop system, make sure you have extended leak test, use flexible thick wall tubings with barb fittings and good quality hose clamps (or if you when nuts, full copper pipes), use a dual pump single loop system(prefer D5 for better reliability) for simplicity and redundancy, fill level senser helps, but nothing really beats proper extensive leak testing, flow senser is a must because you cannot trust the pump RPM feed 100%.
Aquaero 6 have a special programmable relay that you can use to switch off the system, there should be some instructions on how to wire it somewhere in this thread.


----------



## Wolfsbora

I posted this question quite a while ago but it fell through the cracks. Is there a reason that my MPS 400 is only reading 20l/h? It is connected via aquabus to my Aquaero 6 XT. I believe I connected it into the High Flow jack, should I have connected it to the other one? Or is there a setting I need to adjust? Thanks!


----------



## WiLd FyeR

Help! Installed new fans, can't get it to start running. Only time I can get it to start running is when I check the hold minimum power box. Fan setting is on PWM since it's 4 pin.

The other fans are working on the curve except for one.

Nevermind, was buggy, had to mess around with the temp sensors.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wolfsbora*
> 
> I posted this question quite a while ago but it fell through the cracks. Is there a reason that my MPS 400 is only reading 20l/h? It is connected via aquabus to my Aquaero 6 XT. I believe I connected it into the High Flow jack, should I have connected it to the other one? Or is there a setting I need to adjust? Thanks!


most likely units are been displayed wrong. Have you tried to connect via usb? Have you tried to change the units displayed in the Aquasuite?


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wolfsbora*
> 
> I posted this question quite a while ago but it fell through the cracks. Is there a reason that my MPS 400 is only reading 20l/h? It is connected via aquabus to my Aquaero 6 XT. I believe I connected it into the High Flow jack, should I have connected it to the other one? Or is there a setting I need to adjust? Thanks!


Its not configured correctly


----------



## Wolfsbora

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> most likely units are been displayed wrong. Have you tried to connect via usb? Have you tried to change the units displayed in the Aquasuite?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> Its not configured correctly


This is my current configuration:


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wolfsbora*
> 
> This is my current configuration:


That isn't the config page. It needs to be connected via USB to be configured.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wolfsbora*
> 
> This is my current configuration:





Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> That isn't the config page. It needs to be connected via USB to be configured.





Also why is the page you post showing high flow (53068) along with the number 169? Isn't that the aquacomputer high flow device? I am a little bit confused now.

is this one that you have:

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/16788/ex-res-407/AquaComputer_G14_MPS_Flow_Sensor_-_400_21-106_GallonHour_53132.html?tl=g30c229s2257&id=L2aUFv5G&mv_pc=625

or this one:

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/13694/bus-270/Aquacomputer_G14_Flow_Meter_Sensor_Block_-_Aquaero_Series_Poweradjust_Fan-O-Matic_Pro_Alphacool_Heatmaster_53068.html?tl=g30c229s2257&id=L2aUFv5G&mv_pc=621


----------



## Jakusonfire

It just shows that for all flow meters, but it doesn't do anything except for the High flow meter.


----------



## Shoggy

As some already realized I was on holiday, then I had to fight my way through everything that way lying around and the last days were also _fun_.

Well, no chance to go through all the pages from this time and also most questions were already answered by others so it makes not much sense for me. So if there is still something specific that needs to be answered just point me to it


----------



## iBored

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> As some already realized I was on holiday, then I had to fight my way through everything that way lying around and the last days were also _fun_.
> 
> Well, no chance to go through all the pages from this time and also most questions were already answered by others so it makes not much sense for me. So if there is still something specific that needs to be answered just point me to it


I have one question. Why does this flow sensor not come with the cable?
Its so misleading cos I thought it was a 3pin fan header.
Now I've gotta make another order and its making me want to order more stuff!
Wait a minute...


----------



## Shoggy

In my personal opinion I also think it is a bit stupid that it is not included but I am not the one who has to decide this. I have mentioned that a few times over the last years but the management wants to keep it as separate accessory.


----------



## Mega Man

personally i think they feel you can use the RPM cable if you want it, if you want both.... you gotta pay [email protected]


----------



## LostParticle

Hi









First of all, thanks for adding me (to the list of owners)!

I don't know if I am off topic, apologies if I do, but I would like to ask your opinion on something...

- What is the best way to represent the various values on the Overview pages, according to your opinion?









So, let's say I want to represent Core temperature. I can use text, a bar graph, a chart and a gauge. What is the most appropriate way for representing temperatures?

What about voltages and fan speeds?

Finally, I haven't gone through all the pages of this thread but could you post some screenshots of how you have designed your Overview page(s)?









And one last question/request : - How can I show my system's Date and Time in an Overview page in Aquasuite? Do I have to use this programming language - I do not recall its name?

Thank you very much, my apologies if I am being off topic.


----------



## Jakusonfire

The default pages are a good basis to start from but everyone has different requirements for what is important or useful to show.
The type of element used will depend if you want an easy to read instantaneous view of say pump speed in a guage, or say a chart that shows how water temps have risen and fallen over time with load.

Mine changes regularly


I have other pages for pumps and charts


----------



## Shoggy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LostParticle*
> 
> And one last question/request : - How can I show my system's Date and Time in an Overview page in Aquasuite? Do I have to use this programming language - I do not recall its name?
> 
> Thank you very much, my apologies if I am being off topic.


If you go to an overview page and unlock it so it can be edited, then rightclick and add new item. Select custom control and change to the tab display. Select empty item and load the preset. Just copy and paste this example into the textbox:

Code:



Code:


<UserControl
    xmlns:sys="clr-namespace:System;assembly=mscorlib"
    x:Name="this"
    xmlns="http://schemas.microsoft.com/winfx/2006/xaml/presentation"
    xmlns:x="http://schemas.microsoft.com/winfx/2006/xaml"
    xmlns:mc="http://schemas.openxmlformats.org/markup-compatibility/2006" 
    xmlns:d="http://schemas.microsoft.com/expression/blend/2008" 
    mc:Ignorable="d" d:DesignHeight="300" d:DesignWidth="300">
    <Grid>
        <TextBlock  Name="tbArrivalDateTime" 
            Text="{Binding Source={x:Static sys:DateTime.Now},
                   StringFormat='{}{0:dd-MMM-yyyy hh:mm:ss}'}" 
                   VerticalAlignment="Center"
                   Grid.Row="3"
                   Grid.Column="1"
                   Margin="10,0,0,0"
                   HorizontalAlignment="Left"/>        
    </Grid>
</UserControl>

Click OK and the new element will show you the date and time.

The code language is XAML. If you require some other stuff or formats you can easily Google it.


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LostParticle*
> 
> I haven't gone through all the pages of this thread but could you post some screenshots of how you have designed your Overview page(s)?


----------



## LostParticle

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> If you go to an overview page and unlock it so it can be edited, then rightclick and add new item. Select custom control and change to the tab display. Select empty item and load the preset. Just copy and paste this example into the textbox:
> 
> Code:
> 
> 
> 
> Code:
> 
> 
> <UserControl
> xmlns:sys="clr-namespace:System;assembly=mscorlib"
> x:Name="this"
> xmlns="http://schemas.microsoft.com/winfx/2006/xaml/presentation"
> xmlns:x="http://schemas.microsoft.com/winfx/2006/xaml"
> xmlns:mc="http://schemas.openxmlformats.org/markup-compatibility/2006"
> xmlns:d="http://schemas.microsoft.com/expression/blend/2008"
> mc:Ignorable="d" d:DesignHeight="300" d:DesignWidth="300">
> <Grid>
> <TextBlock  Name="tbArrivalDateTime"
> Text="{Binding Source={x:Static sys:DateTime.Now},
> StringFormat='{}{0:dd-MMM-yyyy hh:mm:ss}'}"
> VerticalAlignment="Center"
> Grid.Row="3"
> Grid.Column="1"
> Margin="10,0,0,0"
> HorizontalAlignment="Left"/>
> </Grid>
> </UserControl>
> 
> Click OK and the new element will show you the date and time.
> 
> The code language is XAML. If you require some other stuff or formats you can easily Google it.


Wow, thank you very much for this! But... the time does not change.. I mean, the seconds stay the same...

@Jakusonfire, @WiSK, thank you guys! Wisk, beautiful representation!









I have just an Aquaero 5 LT, haha, which serves me superbly! My AIO is directly connected to CPU+OPT fan headers of my motherboard, I prefer it that way, yeah







The Aquaero controls just the six fans of my chassis (see rig)


----------



## Shoggy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LostParticle*
> 
> Wow, thank you very much for this! But... the time does not change.. I mean, the seconds stay the same...


Yes, that is right. It can not be updated in real time with a simple code snippet. That would use a different code base which is way too complicated and hard to include.


----------



## LostParticle

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> Yes, that is right. It can not be updated in real time with a simple code snippet. That would use a different code base which is way too complicated and hard to include.


Ah, I see...

Okay, no problem, will just the date update then?

If you know any other way to include date and time, updating in real-time of course, in an overview page, I'd be much obliged!









AIDA64 offers system's date and time in its External Applications' sensors but these values cannot be passed to Aquasuite.







They do not show up in the overview pages. By the way, after HWiNFO's latest builds, still in pre-release, I will stop using AIDA.

HWiNFO64 is offering everything I need now!


----------



## Shoggy

The date will also not update itself with my example.

So far I do not know an easy solution to get the date and time in a self-updating into an overview page.


----------



## VSG

Shoggy, I know this has been brought up before in various bits and pieces but I am considering getting one of your pressure sensors to measure pressure drop due to a component, say a block or radiator. Could you help me pick out what parts I would need please?


----------



## Shoggy

Based on our part numbers:

1x 53134 (as example)
2x 90120
2x 90121
1x 61033 (or more)

In addition you will require a t-connector where you can use the fittings for the small tube. Or you drop them and work with other adapters etc. You have to get a parallel connection to the spots before and after the component that you want to test.


----------



## VSG

Thanks a lot! Looks like my options in the US are Frozen CPU who have the Delta 100/500/1000 pressure sensor with 2x M5 thread fittings or Aquatuning who just have the pressure sensors but nothing else. I know at least what I need now, +1

Say I go for the 53135- does the large range mean having to calibrate first to make sure it is accurate?


----------



## Shoggy

I think the mps pressure 500 will be too much. That will only make sense if you test component with a really huge pressure drop. I think for most stuff even the small 40 variant will be enough so with the suggested 100 variant you should have a good mix of accuracy and pressure range for testing. Using the 500 variant will also do the job but it resolution for the measurement will be worse.


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> I think the mps pressure 500 will be too much. That will only make sense if you test component with a really huge pressure drop. I think for most stuff even the small 40 variant will be enough so with the suggested 100 variant you should have a good mix of accuracy and pressure range for testing. Using the 500 variant will also do the job but it resolution for the measurement will be worse.


The only thing I am potentially concerned that may go above the range of the mps 100 is the Mo.Ra 3 140.9, everything else should be well within the 100 mbar range. I agree accuracy is just as important as range.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> I think the mps pressure 500 will be too much. That will only make sense if you test component with a really huge pressure drop. I think for most stuff even the small 40 variant will be enough so with the suggested 100 variant you should have a good mix of accuracy and pressure range for testing. Using the 500 variant will also do the job but it resolution for the measurement will be worse.
> 
> 
> 
> The only thing I am potentially concerned that may go above the range of the mps 100 is the Mo.Ra 3 140.9, everything else should be well within the 100 mbar range. I agree accuracy is just as important as range.
Click to expand...

100mbar is about 1.5 psi for us imperial folks, it's not outside of reason to expect a lot of blocks, or even rads to exceed that with significant flow rates.


----------



## mantrius

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> In my personal opinion I also think it is a bit stupid that it is not included but I am not the one who has to decide this. I have mentioned that a few times over the last years but the management wants to keep it as separate accessory.


Is there any chance you can tell us what the molex part number is for the female connector on the side that connects to the high flow sensor? I'm trying to make my cables and need to find the same connector in black. If not the part number could you let us know what the pin pitch is?


----------



## Wolfsbora

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> That isn't the config page. It needs to be connected via USB to be configured.


I did not receive a USB cable with it since I bought the MPS 400 used, I only have the one that came with the Aquaero that I bought new. Is there anyway around this?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Also why is the page you post showing high flow (53068) along with the number 169? Isn't that the aquacomputer high flow device? I am a little bit confused now.
> 
> is this one that you have:
> 
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/16788/ex-res-407/AquaComputer_G14_MPS_Flow_Sensor_-_400_21-106_GallonHour_53132.html?tl=g30c229s2257&id=L2aUFv5G&mv_pc=625
> 
> or this one:
> 
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/13694/bus-270/Aquacomputer_G14_Flow_Meter_Sensor_Block_-_Aquaero_Series_Poweradjust_Fan-O-Matic_Pro_Alphacool_Heatmaster_53068.html?tl=g30c229s2257&id=L2aUFv5G&mv_pc=621


I disconnected it from the aquabus High port and connected it to the aquabus Low port. Now it doesn't recognize the device.

Edit: I own the MPS 400.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wolfsbora*
> 
> I did not receive a USB cable with it since I bought the MPS 400 used, I only have the one that came with the Aquaero that I bought new. Is there anyway around this?
> I disconnected it from the aquabus High port and connected it to the aquabus Low port. Now it doesn't recognize the device.
> 
> Edit: I own the MPS 400.


yep, jackusonfire clarify the picture of the aquasuite you post before to me. The only thing I could think is that the device is configured in a wrong way. What tube/compression are you using? If you are using 3/8 x 5/8 Fast_fate did a custom calibration for the mps 400 for that tube and with bitspower fittings. I do have the file and the description is in the OCN water gear testing thread. I remember he notice something odd in the default configuration of the mps 400 where the wrong units were been displayed in the aquasuite. My guess is you problem have something to do with that.


----------



## Wolfsbora

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> yep, jackusonfire clarify the picture of the aquasuite you post before to me. The only thing I could think is that the device is configured in a wrong way. What tube/compression are you using? If you are using 3/8 x 5/8 Fast_fate did a custom calibration for the mps 400 for that tube and with bitspower fittings. I do have the file and the description is in the OCN water gear testing thread. I remember he notice something odd in the default configuration of the mps 400 where the wrong units were been displayed in the aquasuite. My guess is you problem have something to do with that.


I am using 1/2" OD acrylic with RocketScience fittings.There are definitely some issues going on.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wolfsbora*
> 
> I am using 1/2" OD acrylic with RocketScience fittings.There are definitely some issues going on.


Here we go mate. Was looking for this when you reply. Bug...The file will not help you then. But take a look on the thread nevertheless because I recall fast_fate talking about something odd in the units displayed by the mps 400

http://www.overclock.net/t/1501978/ocn-community-water-cooling-test-thread/150#post_22685682


----------



## Wolfsbora

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Here we go mate. Was looking for this when you reply. Bug...The file will not help you then. But take a look on the thread nevertheless because I recall fast_fate talking about something odd in the units displayed by the mps 400
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1501978/ocn-community-water-cooling-test-thread/150#post_22685682


Thanks for the research!! Rep+ I wonder what will be the best possible way to get this functioning more accurately.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wolfsbora*
> 
> Thanks for the research!! Rep+ I wonder what will be the best possible way to get this functioning more accurately.


I am pretty sure @fast_fate have rocketscience fitting of the same size and chances are he have a mps400 calibration file for that particular tube diameter. You can head there to the testing thread and ask him or just MP.










EDIT- So you see, old age is crap...I didn't even recall I experienced the same problem you are having with the default mp400 calibration.. Re-reading the link I sent you refresh my memory...I guess is the tiredness that follow been a father to a 2.5 years baby girl...But it definitely looks like wrong units/calibration. Let's see here there is another file for 1/2 tubes in the mps400 review I saw from @stren...Check here:

http://www.xtremerigs.net/2013/04/30/aquacomputer-mps-400-flow-sensor/3/


----------



## Wolfsbora

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> I am pretty sure @fast_fate have rocketscience fitting of the same size and chances are he have a mps400 calibration file for that particular tube diameter. You can head there to the testing thread and ask him or just MP.


He is a really good dude. He is how I got connected with Matt over at RocketScience because of a post that he had in the OCN Watercooling Club. Those Australians are really friendly.









I'll definitely hit him up. Thanks for the suggestion!


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wolfsbora*
> 
> He is a really good dude. He is how I got connected with Matt over at RocketScience because of a post that he had in the OCN Watercooling Club. Those Australians are really friendly.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'll definitely hit him up. Thanks for the suggestion!


check my edit in my previous post. Was looking at Stren review of the mps400 and in a quick reading I didn't found the tube he was using but he mention you would need a custom calibration if using 1/2 tubes...I would do it for you but I don't have fittings for that diameter...


----------



## Wolfsbora

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> check my edit in my previous post. Was looking at Stren review of the mps400 and in a quick reading I didn't found the tube he was using but he mention you would need a custom calibration if using 1/2 tubes...I would do it for you but I don't have fittings for that diameter...


I'll definitely read up on that when my faculties are more in order. I know how ya feel being a parent to a youngin'. My son is 10 months, plus I've been putting in 10 hour days at work. Starting to scramble whatever brains I have left!!


----------



## Shoggy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mantrius*
> 
> Is there any chance you can tell us what the molex part number is for the female connector on the side that connects to the high flow sensor? I'm trying to make my cables and need to find the same connector in black. If not the part number could you let us know what the pin pitch is?


Unfortunately I have no idea what kind of connector that is. We purchase that whole cable since several years from the same company and I have no details about that in our system. I guess our purchasing has the details but they will not tell me for sure to prevent copies etc.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wolfsbora*
> 
> I did not receive a USB cable with it since I bought the MPS 400 used, I only have the one that came with the Aquaero that I bought new. Is there anyway around this?
> I disconnected it from the aquabus High port and connected it to the aquabus Low port. Now it doesn't recognize the device.


You have to get a USB cable because there is no way to configure the sensor via aquabus. When using the aquabus only, you also have to use a 4-pin aquabus cable because otherwise the sensor will get no power.

Check that topic to make sure that you are not affected by this problem.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mantrius*
> 
> Is there any chance you can tell us what the molex part number is for the female connector on the side that connects to the high flow sensor? I'm trying to make my cables and need to find the same connector in black. If not the part number could you let us know what the pin pitch is?


Well, this may or may not be helpful, but Martin has these pics on his site (I'm assuming this is the flow sensor you are asking about):




Which a bit of googling led me here: http://www.digmesa.com/en/classicline-products/flow-sensor-fhksc/

That has a PDF link which i think says it's a "PANCON - Mas-Con" connector. Sooo, another bit of googling landed me here:

http://www.newark.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/Search?catalogId=15003&langId=-1&storeId=10194&categoryId=800000006602&mf=108945&pageSize=25&beginIndex=2&showResults=true

And there, just going by the product images looking at their 3 pin headers this looks to be it, maybe?

http://www.newark.com/pancon-connectors/mlss156-3-d/board-board-connector-header-3pos/dp/48F5026

I dunno. Even if I got lost in the weeds along the way and that's not it perhaps something I linked above will put you or someone else here on the right track to finding a suitable female connecter for it. Just thought I'd toss it out there.


----------



## electro2u

http://www.alibaba.com/product-detail/HRB-3-96mm-0-156-pitch_395084234.html?s=p&from=wap

Alibaba is really annoying dunno why link won't work.


----------



## fast_fate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wolfsbora*
> 
> I did not receive a USB cable with it since I bought the MPS 400 used, I only have the one that came with the Aquaero that I bought new. Is there anyway around this?
> I disconnected it from the aquabus High port and connected it to the aquabus Low port. Now it doesn't recognize the device.


As Shoggy and Jak have advised - you NEED a USB cable to connect to motherboard (or any of your case's external USB port) to configure the MPS device.
Note - remember *NOT* to connect to the Aquareo during the configuration stage.
You may find (as I did) that getting a USB hub/port splitter comes in quite handy such as the NZXT IU01 USB Expansion


Spoiler: NZXT IU01 USB Expansion






After correct configuration, your flow will change to a more "expected" flow rate range with the default calibration value.
If you poked around the pages Gabz linked you to in the test thread you will see that with calibration the MPS flow sensors can be extremely accurate after calibration.
Before calibration you should expect a rough "ball park figure" which will be fine for most users.
Also may be worth looking into the links for the other MPS flow sensors I tested, as the info on them might also prove useful to you - here's the index link
I would help with a custom file - BUT

test bench is down atm - pumps stolen for *S*_alive_*8*
I don't have a stock MPS 400 to use for calibration any more - only my custom MPS 400+
I think you'ld be OK with stock cal file, maybe it's just me who's so @[email protected] about accuracy ??


----------



## mantrius

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Well, this may or may not be helpful, but Martin has these pics on his site (I'm assuming this is the flow sensor you are asking about):
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Which a bit of googling led me here: http://www.digmesa.com/en/classicline-products/flow-sensor-fhksc/
> 
> That has a PDF link which i think says it's a "PANCON - Mas-Con" connector. Sooo, another bit of googling landed me here:
> 
> http://www.newark.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/Search?catalogId=15003&langId=-1&storeId=10194&categoryId=800000006602&mf=108945&pageSize=25&beginIndex=2&showResults=true
> 
> And there, just going by the product images looking at their 3 pin headers this looks to be it, maybe?
> 
> http://www.newark.com/pancon-connectors/mlss156-3-d/board-board-connector-header-3pos/dp/48F5026
> 
> I dunno. Even if I got lost in the weeds along the way and that's not it perhaps something I linked above will put you or someone else here on the right track to finding a suitable female connecter for it. Just thought I'd toss it out there.


Damn I should have checked Martin's. Thanks very much Unicr0n hunter and electro2u! That's got me on exactly the track I needed!

*edit*. Found the exact molex part number and at $.29 each from Mouser with more than 5,000 I can finally finish the custom cable!


----------



## Wolfsbora

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fast_fate*
> 
> As Shoggy and Jak have advised - you NEED a USB cable to connect to motherboard (or any of your case's external USB port) to configure the MPS device.
> Note - remember *NOT* to connect to the Aquareo during the configuration stage.
> You may find (as I did) that getting a USB hub/port splitter comes in quite handy such as the NZXT IU01 USB Expansion
> 
> 
> Spoiler: NZXT IU01 USB Expansion
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After correct configuration, your flow will change to a more "expected" flow rate range with the default calibration value.
> If you poked around the pages Gabz linked you to in the test thread you will see that with calibration the MPS flow sensors can be extremely accurate after calibration.
> Before calibration you should expect a rough "ball park figure" which will be fine for most users.
> Also may be worth looking into the links for the other MPS flow sensors I tested, as the info on them might also prove useful to you - here's the index link
> I would help with a custom file - BUT
> 
> test bench is down atm - pumps stolen for *S*_alive_*8*
> I don't have a stock MPS 400 to use for calibration any more - only my custom MPS 400+
> I think you'ld be OK with stock cal file, maybe it's just me *who's so @[email protected] about accuracy* ??


The line in bold made me chuckle. I had asked on here a couple of months ago if I would need a USB cable for it but I don't think it ever went answered. That is no problem though, I will try to hunt one down. Maybe @Shoggy can point me in the right direction for one. My goal is to configure Aquasuite to function the way it is supposed. 100% accurate readings aren't necessary in this instant, I just hate seeing that I'm getting 3 liters of water moving per hour. Not quite reassuring. Thanks for the advice! I'll do some more reading up on it when I get the USB cable. Rep+


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wolfsbora*
> 
> The line in bold made me chuckle. I had asked on here a couple of months ago if I would need a USB cable for it but I don't think it ever went answered. That is no problem though, I will try to hunt one down. Maybe @Shoggy can point me in the right direction for one. My goal is to configure Aquasuite to function the way it is supposed. 100% accurate readings aren't necessary in this instant, I just hate seeing that I'm getting 3 liters of water moving per hour. Not quite reassuring. Thanks for the advice! I'll do some more reading up on it when I get the USB cable. Rep+


Here we go mate:

http://shop.aquacomputer.de/product_info.php?products_id=2573

But I guess any USB internal cable (female - female) would work.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mantrius*
> 
> Damn I should have checked Martin's. Thanks very much Unicr0n hunter and electro2u! That's got me on exactly the track I needed!
> 
> *edit*. Found the exact molex part number and at $.29 each from Mouser with more than 5,000 I can finally finish the custom cable!


Wait! What part #? Can you share a link to it?


----------



## electro2u

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Wait! What part #? Can you share a link to it?


Well, I was bored and wanted to see if I could find one stateside from Molex or another company. The confusing part about the molex website is just that the connectors are all shown with say, 7 circuits (pins) and you just pick the number of pins you need. If you dig really deep you can find PDF 3D images of the terminals, however!









Molex PN: 09-50-3031
Molex links:
PDF 3D image- http://www.molex.com/pdm_docs/adobe3D/09-50-3031.pdf
Part Datasheet-http://www.molex.com/molex/products/datasheet.jsp?part=active/0009503031_CRIMP_HOUSINGS.xml
Correct Part Kit including pins: http://www.molexkits.com/76650-0095

Sorry Shoggy... I think this cat's out of the bag. Martin is very thorough. It seems to me the newer Aquacomputer products are more and more user friendly, and include more and more accessories. eg. the AQ6 XT remote comes with batteries. The Aquacomputer mechanical "high flow" meter is already cheaper than the AMS units, and the cable is not very expensive. I wish they had included it in the box, but it's certainly not worth missing out on all the good stuff Aquacomputer makes.

BTW guys, if you ever need something specific worked out for an Aquacomputer part and your question has slipped through the cracks PM Shoggy and he will help you if he can. I think it's easier that way than expecting him to read this thread from start to finish, and then we can post any info he gives if it seems relevant to the thread. These units are so popular now that the community can do much of the troubleshooting ourselves.


----------



## Wolfsbora

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Here we go mate:
> 
> http://shop.aquacomputer.de/product_info.php?products_id=2573
> 
> But I guess any USB internal cable (female - female) would work.


Thanks again! I was really hoping that I had one laying around the house. Is it safe to assume that this cable on Amazon would work well too? It is prime so I think the $6.99+tax would be cheaper than the international shipping costs from Aquacomputer.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wolfsbora*
> 
> Thanks again! I was really hoping that I had one laying around the house. Is it safe to assume that this cable on Amazon would work well too? It is prime so I think the $6.99+tax would be cheaper than the international shipping costs from Aquacomputer.


It looks correct to me. Any chance of finding local at your city?


----------



## Wolfsbora

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> It looks correct to me. Any chance of finding local at your city?


Pittsburgh is lacking in all computer related items. The only local retailer here that carries PC parts is Best Buy and their selection was basically cut in half in favor of the new store layout. I need a Microcenter here, the closest one is over 3 hours away. I pulled the trigger on the one in the link and it should be here on Tuesday. Then I'll follow the advice that you folks have given me to configure the MPS 400. Once that is done, will I need the USB cable for anything else? Also, how do I get the MPS to give me temps? Can that be done through the aquabus cable?


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wolfsbora*
> 
> Pittsburgh is lacking in all computer related items. The only local retailer here that carries PC parts is Best Buy and their selection was basically cut in half in favor of the new store layout. I need a Microcenter here, the closest one is over 3 hours away. I pulled the trigger on the one in the link and it should be here on Tuesday. Then I'll follow the advice that you folks have given me to configure the MPS 400. Once that is done, will I need the USB cable for anything else? Also, how do I get the MPS to give me temps? Can that be done through the aquabus cable?


I don't think the MPS can give you internal water temp, but correct me if I am wrong folks. The high flow usb give you internal temp but not the mps. You can hook up a external temp sensor to the MPS and it would give you the temp via that sensor. Of course, the Aquaero does that too and have 10 temp header there. Also, you can buy an internal (pass through or cap) temp sensor to get the water temp.

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/10373/ex-tub-620/Bitspower_G_14_Temperature_Sensor_Stop_Fitting_-_Matte_Black_BP-MBWP-CT.html?tl=g30c229s579


----------



## Wolfsbora

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> I don't think the MPS can give you internal water temp, but correct me if I am wrong folks. The high flow usb give you internal temp but not the mps. You can hook up a external temp sensor to the MPS and it would give you the temp via that sensor. Of course, the Aquaero does that too and have 10 temp header there. Also, you can buy an internal (pass through or cap) temp sensor to get the water temp.
> 
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/10373/ex-tub-620/Bitspower_G_14_Temperature_Sensor_Stop_Fitting_-_Matte_Black_BP-MBWP-CT.html?tl=g30c229s579


I have the pass through temp sensor but after noticing that it didn't have the O ring and my dumb @$$ installed it that way, I decided not to use it. Now it sits in a box. The reason I wanted the MPS 400 was for the flow meter AND the included temp sensor. Here is an article explaining its features:
Quote:


> In addition the flow sensor also includes an internal temperature sensor.


I'd like to mention that I really appreciate your assistance as well as fast_fate's and everyone else on here. The Aquaero can be quite intimidating.


----------



## mantrius

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Wait! What part #? Can you share a link to it?


This should be the right part, Molex part number 09-93-0300 (old part number 3069-G03)

http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Molex/09-93-0300/?qs=%2fha2pyFadugkKTrljU%252bmh20UXceQpBKLvqjaeXXSwLE%3d

*edit*. This is the black version of the part electro2u posted.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wolfsbora*
> 
> I have the pass through temp sensor but after noticing that it didn't have the O ring and my dumb @$$ installed it that way, I decided not to use it. Now it sits in a box. The reason I wanted the MPS 400 was for the flow meter AND the included temp sensor. Here is an article explaining its features:
> I'd like to mention that I really appreciate your assistance as well as fast_fate's and everyone else on here. The Aquaero can be quite intimidating.


Yeah, I read that review and didn't notice the mention to the internal temp. I didn't find mine so I guess I should look in Aquasuite again for it...


----------



## Jakusonfire

The Internal temp readings from the MPS meters are so wildly inaccurate they they are almost useless. Unless you only want the vaguest notion of the real water temp.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mantrius*
> 
> This should be the right part, Molex part number 09-93-0300 (old part number 3069-G03)
> 
> http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Molex/09-93-0300/?qs=%2fha2pyFadugkKTrljU%252bmh20UXceQpBKLvqjaeXXSwLE%3d
> 
> *edit*. This is the black version of the part electro2u posted.


Thank you! Rep+
I try to make all my own sleeved custom length cables for everything, and black connectors are a must.


----------



## electro2u

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wolfsbora*
> 
> I have the pass through temp sensor but after noticing that it didn't have the O ring and my dumb @$$ installed it that way, I decided not to use it. Now it sits in a box. The reason I wanted the MPS 400 was for the flow meter AND the included temp sensor. Here is an article explaining its features:
> I'd like to mention that I really appreciate your assistance as well as fast_fate's and everyone else on here. The Aquaero can be quite intimidating.


I too had a stubbornly leaky Aquacomputer pass through temp sensor. I replaced the orings but it refused to stop leaking. I use Koolance accessories like the tiny pass through flow meter+temp sensor in one for 25$ instead. Well that was Darlene's suggestion.


----------



## WHIMington

It is ALIVE! It is alive!









I can now offically join the club









Been playing with aquasuite now, to my surprise the MPS High flow USB do not have any calibration values, maybe it is already calibrated at factory?


----------



## Newtocooling

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> I too had a stubbornly leaky Aquacomputer pass through temp sensor. I replaced the orings but it refused to stop leaking. I use Koolance accessories like the tiny pass through flow meter+temp sensor in one for 25$ instead. Well that was Darlene's suggestion.


I had four of the aquacomputer temp sensors, and all four leaked attempted multiple times to move and change the o-ring and still had leaks. Stay away from these temp sensors and save yourself money and headaches.


----------



## badkarma3059

Glad I went the phobya route for temp sensors. Zero problems


----------



## Jakusonfire

I have had the exact opposite experience. My aquacomp sensors have been easy and leak free but I got rid of three phobya inlines because they just refused to not leak from their own orings.

Also, using a brass fitting to measure water temp is not as accurate and more laggy than just taping a sensor to the copper parts of a radiator.


----------



## bern43

I'm using an MCP35X2 with the supplied splitter from Swiftech. This means that Fan 3 is reading rpm and Fan 4 is supplying PWM control to both pumps and providing a separate rpm reading. I've selected PWM control under the advanced menu for Fan 4. When I set up a curve control the voltage is showing as dropping for Fan 3 though when I lower the power percentage in the curve control. Is this normal? I thought the voltage would remain the same when I'm using PWM to control the pumps?


----------



## Jakusonfire

If fan 3 is included in a controller it will drop voltage. It shouldn't be powering anything though so there is no reason to include it in the controller with fan 4.


----------



## bern43

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> If fan 3 is included in a controller it will drop voltage. It shouldn't be powering anything though so there is no reason to include it in the controller with fan 4.


That makes sense. One more question. I'm setting the controller output to 35% for the pump in the curve, but it's showing as 58 % on the fan tab. Why the difference?


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> I have had the exact opposite experience. My aquacomp sensors have been easy and leak free but I got rid of three phobya inlines because they just refused to not leak from their own orings.
> 
> Also, using a brass fitting to measure water temp is not as accurate and more laggy than just taping a sensor to the copper parts of a radiator.


FWIW I've had 2 Aquacomputer and 4 Phobya inline temp sensors in different loops for a little over a year now and not had any problems with any of them.

Prior to getting that first Phobya fitting though I was using an air temp sensor that came with a Lamptron CW611 foil taped to the rad and found it to be a lot more laggy and less acurate than the inline temp sensors. All of my inline senors read w/in 1C of each other and agree with what I see when I dip a thermometer in my res. No matter where I tape the air sensor on the end tank of a rad I always get a couple degrees difference - usually ~3C colder and slower to change. Maybe it's because I didn't scrape away the paint on the rad to get it to the bare copper? If so I'm not willing to do that.


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bern43*
> 
> That makes sense. One more question. I'm setting the controller output to 35% for the pump in the curve, but it's showing as 58 % on the fan tab. Why the difference?


The controller output is a percentage of your your pre set maximum and minimum. So, if your preset is min 0 and max 50 then 50% controller output is 25%
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> FWIW I've had 2 Aquacomputer and 4 Phobya inline temp sensors in different loops for a little over a year now and not had any problems with any of them.
> 
> Prior to getting that first Phobya fitting though I was using an air temp sensor that came with a Lamptron CW611 foil taped to the rad and found it to be a lot more laggy and less acurate than the inline temp sensors. All of my inline senors read w/in 1C of each other and agree with what I see when I dip a thermometer in my res. No matter where I tape the air sensor on the end tank of a rad I always get a couple degrees difference - usually ~3C colder and slower to change. Maybe it's because I didn't scrape away the paint on the rad to get it to the bare copper? If so I'm not willing to do that.


I dunno, that sounds like an implementation problem really. Maybe the foil tape itself because a difference in whole degrees is huge. I have not seen more than 0.3c difference at the extreme end, and most the time they are the dead same if it's a steady load. It's just simple physics that the copper and larger surface area of the rad should work best.

Edit: Just as an example;
Water 1 is a stop fitting sensor in the res
water 2 is an inline filter entering the first rad
water 3 is an inline sensor exiting the rad
water 4 is a flat sensor taped to the headtank on the outlet of the radiator


----------



## Newtocooling

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> FWIW I've had 2 Aquacomputer and 4 Phobya inline temp sensors in different loops for a little over a year now and not had any problems with any of them.
> 
> Prior to getting that first Phobya fitting though I was using an air temp sensor that came with a Lamptron CW611 foil taped to the rad and found it to be a lot more laggy and less acurate than the inline temp sensors. All of my inline senors read w/in 1C of each other and agree with what I see when I dip a thermometer in my res. No matter where I tape the air sensor on the end tank of a rad I always get a couple degrees difference - usually ~3C colder and slower to change. Maybe it's because I didn't scrape away the paint on the rad to get it to the bare copper? If so I'm not willing to do that.


Was the o-ring loose on the aquacomputer temp sensors? My leaks seemed to be from the o-ring not lining up correctly.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Newtocooling*
> 
> Was the o-ring loose on the aquacomputer temp sensors? My leaks seemed to be from the o-ring not lining up correctly.


I don't recall them being loose. I do now always take off all my fitting o-rings and give them a smear with a tiny amount of silicone o-ring grease though. I'm not positive whether I started doing that before or after I installed those AQ temp sensors though so not sure if that made any difference or not. Without doing that I've found that sometimes o-rings will grab in spots and twist when tightening. I started using the silicone grease on all my o-rings on a recommendation from B Negative after I destroyed a D5 o-ring just trying to put the top back on a pump.


----------



## Shoggy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WHIMington*
> 
> Been playing with aquasuite now, to my surprise the MPS High flow USB do not have any calibration values, maybe it is already calibrated at factory?


The USB variant of the high flow sensor does not have any calibration features because its fixed value is 169 impulses per liter.


----------



## bern43

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> The controller output is a percentage of your your pre set maximum and minimum. So, if your preset is min 0 and max 50 then 50% controller output is 25%


My pre-set maximum and minimum are at the default though (35% min. and 100% max.), which is why I the difference seems strange. With these settings shouldn't the percentage on the controller show up exactly the same as on the tabs for the pumps (fan 2 and 4)?

Edit: Figured this out. All I need to do is lower the min.


----------



## WHIMington

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> The USB variant of the high flow sensor does not have any calibration features because its fixed value is 169 impulses per liter.


Ok that make sense


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bern43*
> 
> My pre-set maximum and minimum are at the default though (35% min. and 100% max.), which is why I the difference seems strange. With these settings shouldn't the percentage on the controller show up exactly the same as on the tabs for the pumps (fan 2 and 4)?
> 
> Edit: Figured this out. All I need to do is lower the min.


Exactly, 35 percent of the range from your min (35) and max (100), a 65 range, is what the controller outputs ... 58 percent.


----------



## Newtocooling

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> I don't recall them being loose. I do now always take off all my fitting o-rings and give them a smear with a tiny amount of silicone o-ring grease though. I'm not positive whether I started doing that before or after I installed those AQ temp sensors though so not sure if that made any difference or not. Without doing that I've found that sometimes o-rings will grab in spots and twist when tightening. I started using the silicone grease on all my o-rings on a recommendation from B Negative after I destroyed a D5 o-ring just trying to put the top back on a pump.


Is this the stuff I should get?

http://www.amazon.com/Silicone-Grease-2-0-oz-Jar/dp/B0000DCVZL/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1410805695&sr=8-1&keywords=silicon+grease

I just noticed a bitpower male to male fitting o-ring doesn't look right on a new DDC 3.2 pump and EK pump top connection I'm using, and it looks like I got a small leak while checking it after putting a heat sink on the pump.


----------



## WiSK

Anyone know how to quickly switch off or silence the alarms using just the front panel? I'm not currently in a position to hook the thing up to a PC with USB and not got a remote.

It's driving me nuts


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> Anyone know how to quickly switch off or silence the alarms using just the front panel? I'm not currently in a position to hook the thing up to a PC with USB and not got a remote.
> 
> It's driving me nuts


if you go to the alarm function right on top there is a option to suppress the alarm after power on. You can change the amount of time there and other options too. Is right on the IR logo menu option.


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> if you go to the alarm function right on top there is a option to suppress the alarm after power on. You can change the amount of time there and other options too. Is right on the IR logo menu option.


Thanks I'll have a try at that









Was hoping for something simple like "press all 3 keys at once"


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> Thanks I'll have a try at that
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Was hoping for something simple like "press all 3 keys at once"










I think it is 3 buttons but in sequence...


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I think it is 3 buttons but in sequence...


Ha!

I managed to set it to 180 seconds, which was enough to spare my sanity. Thanks again


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> Ha!
> 
> I managed to set it to 180 seconds, which was enough to spare my sanity. Thanks again


Welcome mate, glad it helped!







You and other folks around taught me a lot since I joined OCN and been able to give it back is good


----------



## supermiguel

can i use this to configure my aquaero from my laptop???

http://www.xsfans.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=200


----------



## fast_fate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *supermiguel*
> 
> can i use this to configure my aquaero from my laptop???
> 
> http://www.xsfans.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=200


You could - but you would still need a male / male cable to go inbetween the laptop port and the female plug that you linked.

Really one like this would be better...
Female USB header to male USB type A plug


----------



## Shoggy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> Anyone know how to quickly switch off or silence the alarms using just the front panel? I'm not currently in a position to hook the thing up to a PC with USB and not got a remote.
> 
> It's driving me nuts


To confirm and stop the alarm you only have to go to the main menu screen with the icons and select the second one with the warning sign. This brings you to the even log and also stops the alarm.

If you get your hands on an aquaremote you only have to press the upper right key with the four rows. It takes you directly to the even log.


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> To confirm and stop the alarm you only have to go to the main menu screen with the icons and select the second one with the warning sign. This brings you to the even log and also stops the alarm.
> 
> If you get your hands on an aquaremote you only have to press the upper right key with the four rows. It takes you directly to the even log.


Thanks for the info Shoggy - add it to the manual


----------



## LostParticle

Hi

I have an Aquaero 5 LT which controls all of my chassis' fans. My Corsair H110 (and its fans) is controlled by the motherboard.

Here is what is happening:

I set a curve controller and select two of my chassis fans to get controlled by it. Then I delete this controller. After that all of my chassis fans, those two chassis fans are shut down! They stop working! When I go to the "Fans" tab and try to set them to 100%, for example, they simply do not react! I have to reset the Aquaero to its factory defaults for the case's fans to start spinning again!

Is this a normal behavior?! What am I doing wrong?

I have the latest Aquasuite and the latest firmware.

Thank you.

EDIT: Okay, I found the solution. You have to add those fans back in the Fans' tab on the right, in the Controller's Tab.

Still though, is this normal behavior?


----------



## Shoggy

The fan tab only allows to set the general parameters for the fans and does not allow to control them - this is done in the controller tab.

If a fan channel is not assigned to a controller the aquaero will disable it because it is not in use.


----------



## LostParticle

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> The fan tab only allows to set the general parameters for the fans and does not allow to control them - this is done in the controller tab.
> 
> If a fan channel is not assigned to a controller the aquaero will disable it because it is not in use.


Good to see you here because I really need your help!

If I will delete a controller all my system's (chassis) fans will stop working. Is this normal?
When I first run the Aquasuite, no controller is set. The fans work at 100% and I can also control them manually, if I wish.

Why are they stopping when I delete the controller?!

Sorry, I haven't really used these features yet so I don't know


----------



## supermiguel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fast_fate*
> 
> You could - but you would still need a male / male cable to go inbetween the laptop port and the female plug that you linked.
> 
> Really one like this would be better...
> Female USB header to male USB type A plug


Where can i buy this? link?

edit: http://www.frontx.com/store/order_a.html


----------



## Shoggy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LostParticle*
> 
> If I will delete a controller all my system's (chassis) fans will stop working. Is this normal?
> When I first run the Aquasuite, no controller is set. The fans work at 100% and I can also control them manually, if I wish.
> 
> Why are they stopping when I delete the controller?!(


As said, if a fan channel is not assigned to any of the available controllers, then it will not do anything. You do not use it, so the aquaero disables it.

An example:



In this example the fan channel 3 is disabled because it is not assigned to one of the two controllers. If you add it to one of them (plus icon on the right) it will work again.

If you click the red X next to a fan channel it will be removed from the controller and will be disabled. If you click the red X for the whole controller all assigned fan channels in it will be disabled because they are not assigned anymore.

If you add a new controller and add a fan to it which is already used by another controller, then it will be added to the new controller and removed from the old controller. If we take the example and you would add fan channel 4 to the first controller, it will be added there but removed from the second controller.


----------



## LostParticle

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> The fan tab only allows to set the general parameters for the fans and does not allow to control them - this is done in the controller tab.
> 
> If a fan channel is not assigned to a controller the aquaero will disable it because it is not in use.


Okay, now I got it!

Simply said, there has to be a Controller there all the time, otherwise the fans are disabled. My mistake was that I have accidentally deleted the default Controller which controlled all the fans in the first place. In case a new controller will be created and, let's say, two of the system's fans will be added to it, after you delete it, you have to add those fans back in the Default controller to start them spinning again.

At least, this is how I understand it.


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Thank GOD my CPU cooler is controlled by the motherboard!!!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> As said, if a fan channel is not assigned to any of the available controllers, then it will not do anything. You do not use it, so the aquaero disables it.
> 
> An example:
> 
> 
> 
> In this example the fan channel 3 is disabled because it is not assigned to one of the two controllers. If you add it to one of them (plus icon on the right) it will work again.
> 
> If you click the red X next to a fan channel it will be removed from the controller and will be disabled. If you click the red X for the whole controller all assigned fan channels in it will be disabled because they are not assigned anymore.
> 
> If you add a new controller and add a fan to it which is already used by another controller, then it will be added to the new controller and removed from the old controller. If we take the example and you would add fan channel 4 to the first controller, it will be added there but removed from the second controller.


Yeah, thanks, now I understand: a controller there all the time!


----------



## LostParticle

Hi again!









_As you've probably realized today only I've started dealing with the Aquasuite so I'm going to have a few questions..._

I've dealt a bit with the Alarm Actions and the Alarm configuration. One of the Alarm actions is "Load profile 1, 2, 3, 4".

Can someone please explain exactly what is this? Does it refer in loading certain settings, and how can this be done, if so?

Actually, the MOST important thing that interests me is this: is there a way to set the Aquasuite to terminate (kill) a program (like Prime95) if a certain temperature value will get exceeded? Through HWiNFO64 I do this with a simple TaskKill command. Can it be done via the Aquasuite, as well?

Thank you.

ps: I've used the Alarm actions to shut down my computer successfully and also to put it to Sleep, this one was not so successful.


----------



## WiSK

The purpose of loading another profile might be, if things are getting too hot, to switch to e.g. more aggressive settings.

Aquasuite can't shut down anything in Windows. For the simple reason that Aquasuite is only a user interface, a way to make settings on your Aquaero. The Aquaero itself is a hardware controller, it works independently of the operating system. If you can do what you want with HWiNFO64, then continue doing it that way


----------



## electro2u

It definitely can shut down the system. It uses the Windows keyboard function to do it, which is weird but works great. Have 24-pin break cable available but I find it unnecessary. Accidentally shut my pump off the other day and the CPU shut down the system for me...


----------



## LostParticle

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> The purpose of loading another profile might be, if things are getting too hot, to switch to e.g. more aggressive settings.
> 
> Aquasuite can't shut down anything in Windows. For the simple reason that Aquasuite is only a user interface, a way to make settings on your Aquaero. The Aquaero itself is a hardware controller, it works independently of the operating system. If you can do what you want with HWiNFO64, then continue doing it that way


Thank you for your reply









Indeed, the Aquasuite can shut down the computer and also put it to sleep, as I already mention on my previous message above.

I do not mind at all using HWiNFO64 to kill Prime95, or any other Stability stress tester, whenever I test my o/c attempts. Since it's latest beta, HWiNFO is the PERFECT monitoring tool for my motherboard!! No reason to use AIDA64, anymore.

So these other profiles, this switching, do you happen to know how can it be done?

Thank you









ps: when I've set the Alarm action to put my computer to sleep when my VCORE-1 temp would exceed 55C - for testing purposes- it was putting my computer to sleep continuously. The moment I was waking it up, it was putting it back to sleep again! This continued to take place even after I left it in the S3 state for more than 15 minutes. I had to Hard Reset it. This is why I said that shut down was successful but sleep not so much...


----------



## Gabrielzm

@Shoggy, can you clarify to us the d5 pwm control on the aquaero lt. While you were away one user reported that he/she was able to control the d5 pwm using the aquaero 5. Is that correct? The problem only applies to the aquaero 6?

Let's see if I can locate the post:

http://www.overclock.net/t/1474470/ocn-aquaero-owners-club/1770#post_22736083


----------



## iBored

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> @Shoggy, can you clarify to us the d5 pwm control on the aquaero lt. While you were away one user reported that he/she was able to control the d5 pwm using the aquaero 5. Is that correct? The problem only applies to the aquaero 6?
> 
> Let's see if I can locate the post:
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1474470/ocn-aquaero-owners-club/1770#post_22736083


The AQ6 is able to control the D5 pumps on its fan headers _via voltage control_.
However, you will be required to have this connector. It joins the molex power connector with the pwm connector into a regular fan connector.


Here are some posts from @Shoggy you can look at.
POST 1
POST 2


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iBored*
> 
> The AQ6 is able to control the D5 pumps on its fan headers.
> However, you will be required to have this connector. It joins the molex power connector with the pwm connector into a regular fan connector.
> 
> 
> Here are some posts from @Shoggy you can look at.
> POST 1
> POST 2


nope you are mistaken. D5 pwm can not be controlled by the aq6. check the first page of the thread and here:

http://www.overclock.net/t/1474470/ocn-aquaero-owners-club/1540#post_22637637


----------



## Shoggy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> @Shoggy, can you clarify to us the d5 pwm control on the aquaero lt. While you were away one user reported that he/she was able to control the d5 pwm using the aquaero 5. Is that correct? The problem only applies to the aquaero 6?


The aquaero 5 has a slightly different PWM implementation with a simple pull-up but if it works with the D5 pump or other stuff is more a 50/50 thing.

If you need an official answer: it will not work.


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LostParticle*
> 
> Thank you for your reply
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Indeed, the Aquasuite can shut down the computer and also put it to sleep, as I already mention on my previous message above.
> 
> I do not mind at all using HWiNFO64 to kill Prime95, or any other Stability stress tester, whenever I test my o/c attempts. Since it's latest beta, HWiNFO is the PERFECT monitoring tool for my motherboard!! No reason to use AIDA64, anymore.
> 
> So these other profiles, this switching, do you happen to know how can it be done?
> 
> Thank you
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ps: when I've set the Alarm action to put my computer to sleep when my VCORE-1 temp would exceed 55C - for testing purposes- it was putting my computer to sleep continuously. The moment I was waking it up, it was putting it back to sleep again! This continued to take place even after I left it in the S3 state for more than 15 minutes. I had to Hard Reset it. This is why I said that shut down was successful but sleep not so much...


Profiles are only available with an Aquaero Pro or XT. Profiles are created using the LCD screen controls and activated with alarm functions.

Also, as has been mentioned, Aquasuite does not shut anything down or put anything to sleep. The Aquaero performs the sleep and shutdown via USB or hard relay connection and it will work whether or not Aquasuite is even installed on the PC.


----------



## LostParticle

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> Profiles are only available with an Aquaero Pro or XT. Profiles are created using the LCD screen controls and activated with alarm functions.
> 
> Also, as has been mentioned, Aquasuite does not shut anything down or put anything to sleep. The Aquaero performs the sleep and shutdown via USB or hard relay connection and it will work whether or not Aquasuite is even installed on the PC.


Ah, okay, I see! Thank you for clarifying this









When it comes to shutting down and/or putting the PC to Sleep, I'd like to add my own experience: I have just an LT and I use HWiNFO64 for the readings in Aquasuite. When I set an Alarm it works as long as HWiNFO is running, independently from if the Aquasuite is running or not. When HWiNFO is not running -and I use AIDA64 to check the temperatures, for example- the Alarm actions do not work, nothing sleeps or shuts down. I just write my personal experience









I have one question, I hope I am not off topic, IF it is something relatively easy, please answer :

- How can I change the background color of a Data Binding object, in Aquasuite?

thank you


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iBored*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> @Shoggy, can you clarify to us the d5 pwm control on the aquaero lt. While you were away one user reported that he/she was able to control the d5 pwm using the aquaero 5. Is that correct? The problem only applies to the aquaero 6?
> 
> Let's see if I can locate the post:
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1474470/ocn-aquaero-owners-club/1770#post_22736083
> 
> 
> 
> The AQ6 is able to control the D5 pumps on its fan headers _via voltage control_.
> However, you will be required to have this connector. It joins the molex power connector with the pwm connector into a regular fan connector.
> 
> 
> Here are some posts from @Shoggy you can look at.
> POST 1
> POST 2
Click to expand...

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *iBored*
> 
> The AQ6 is able to control the D5 pumps on its fan headers.
> However, you will be required to have this connector. It joins the molex power connector with the pwm connector into a regular fan connector.
> 
> 
> Here are some posts from @Shoggy you can look at.
> POST 1
> POST 2
> 
> 
> 
> nope you are mistaken. D5 pwm can not be controlled by the aq6. check the first page of the thread and here:
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1474470/ocn-aquaero-owners-club/1540#post_22637637
Click to expand...

When we talk about the 6 series not being able to control D5 pumps, we are talking about the PWM series pumps, and about controlling them via the A6 PWM line.

Controlling devices designed to be PWM controlled via voltage control is never a good idea, and shortens their life and reliability spans. . . . . This is directly from the manufacturer's reps.

Experienced, knowledgeable, builders avoid doing that.

If you want to voltage control a D5, you get the plain jane version.

Now that Shoggy has let us know what we all expected, that there is a bit of difference in the PWM implementation between the 5 and 6 series, . . . . there's no reason to stick with the 5 series over the 6 series for PWM D5 control when an effective work-around for the 6 series is so cheap, effective, and easy to make.

About a $1 's worth of parts and a Swiftech PWM splitter cable with the power wires removed, is all you need to use the 6 series with PWM D5's.

If you have a single D5, clip off the slaved portion of the splitter cable.

Here's the one I made for my chiller build, only need one channel for the D5's, so no need for anything fancy;

The larger resistor is a 560 ohm 1/2W, but 1/4 W is OK

The smaller resistor is 2.2K for Dual D5's, 3.3K or 4.7K is fine for a single D5

The diode is a 5.1V Zener diode

Darlene


----------



## electro2u

Even if my nuts were brains I don't think I'd be able to figure that out...








But I can blindly follow your suggestions!
For now I'm using a vario pump set to 12V off my AQ6 XT. It isn't a good solution,, though... I'm not convinced I can harm the vario pump by reducing the voltage it gets, but at about 60% voltage it just turns off, so there's not much range with it at all, I have to set it to a low level and just leave it, so I'm not really controlling it with the AQ at all.


----------



## ppkstat

I am seriously consider buying an aquaero and I am trying to find out wthat sensors I am going to need.

What is the consensus on the best way (input) to control fan speeds in a loop in a long-term (set it and forget it) basis? Bear in mind that where I live ambient temps can vary greatly between seasons even by 15 or more deg celcius. Water/air delta seems to be a bit problematic in this scenario or do I get something wrong? Wouldn't just water temp be a better input?


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> Even if my nuts were brains I don't think I'd be able to figure that out...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But I can blindly follow your suggestions!
> For now I'm using a vario pump set to 12V off my AQ6 XT. It isn't a good solution,, though... I'm not convinced I can harm the vario pump by reducing the voltage it gets, but at about 60% voltage it just turns off, so there's not much range with it at all, I have to set it to a low level and just leave it, so I'm not really controlling it with the AQ at all.


The vario responds much much better to the little red adjustment for speed, than it does to leaving it set on 5, and then varying the supply voltage.

The AC version of the D5 is basically a vario with the internal control potentiometer replaced by a digitally controllable one so it's controllable from software.

If you have your speed set via the red adjustment and the A6 set at 12V out, you're kinda wasting a channel, but not harming anything if you don't need it otherwise.

D.


----------



## Mega Man

@IT Diva can i ask why does the PWM mod work ? i have basic knowledge about electrical components ( like diodes/resistors ect ) do i dont need an in depth explanation. just a quickie is fine ( meaning i wouldnt understand an in depth explanation )


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> @IT Diva can i ask why does the PWM mod work ? i have basic knowledge about electrical components ( like diodes/resistors ect ) do i dont need an in depth explanation. just a quickie is fine ( meaning i wouldnt understand an in depth explanation )


It very simply uses a resistor and a 5.1V zener diode on the 12V supply pins to create a 5.1V voltage source.

That 5.1V source then has a resistor to the PWM pin to "pull it up" to 5.1V.

When an A6 channel is in PWM mode, it puts 12V at the power pins of the fan header, which makes for a handy place to derive the 5V pullup source.

Normally, by Intel Standard, PWM devices have the PWM line "pulled up" via a resistor to a nominally 5V source internally.

The PWM D5 doesn't have that internal pullup, (a design compromise that allows the pump run at 60% instead of 100% with no PWM connection) so you have to add it externally to control it with the A6, since the A6 doesn't have it built in.

Some mobos have the 5V pullup built in, although they are not mandated to by the Intel standard, so that's why sometimes PWM D5's seem to work fine from mobo CPU fan control.

Overall, the issue is unique to the PWM D5, because the other common PWM pump, the 35X, *does have* the internal pullup you'd expect it to. (it also runs at max speed with no PWM connection just like PWM fans do)

Darlene


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ppkstat*
> 
> I am seriously consider buying an aquaero and I am trying to find out wthat sensors I am going to need.
> 
> What is the consensus on the best way (input) to control fan speeds in a loop in a long-term (set it and forget it) basis? Bear in mind that where I live ambient temps can vary greatly between seasons even by 15 or more deg celcius. Water/air delta seems to be a bit problematic in this scenario or do I get something wrong? Wouldn't just water temp be a better input?


Water--air delta is generally more forgiving of wildly varying ambient temperatures, precisely because it is a function of air temp, rather than a curve based on absolute CPU temps. It's also easiest to fix if you do start to fall out of the assumed operating range. I have a set point controller for 12C delta and in the Summer, I might change it to 15C delta if the fans are being too noisy.

I don't think there is a consensus what is best. Many people are just used to CPU temp = fan speed because this is how your motherboard BIOS always does it. However, it's hard to include GPU into that curve in a consistent way. Furthermore, it relies on AIDA/OHM/etc and the software sensor Windows service, so it seems to be missing the point about having an autonomous fan controller.

2c


----------



## ppkstat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> Water--air delta is generally more forgiving of wildly varying ambient temperatures, precisely because it is a function of air temp, rather than a curve based on absolute CPU temps. It's also easiest to fix if you do start to fall out of the assumed operating range. I have a set point controller for 12C delta and in the Summer, I might change it to 15C delta if the fans are being too noisy.
> 
> I don't think there is a consensus what is best. Many people are just used to CPU temp = fan speed because this is how your motherboard BIOS always does it. However, it's hard to include GPU into that curve in a consistent way. Furthermore, it relies on AIDA/OHM/etc and the software sensor Windows service, so it seems to be missing the point about having an autonomous fan controller.
> 
> 2c


Thanks for your reply!

I am not arguing that cpu temp as an input is a better method for controlling fans in comparison to water/air delta. I am sure the delta is much better. If you see my post I never even mentioned CPU temps.

What I am not getting, possibly because I am missing something is why water/air delta is better as an input compared to the absolute water temperature alone.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

I've never really understood why a water--air delta would be preferable to a loop temp target for controlling fans either. It's not for me. If the room temp gets hotter that's when I want my fans working even harder to keep temps down, not let the loop get hotter also.


----------



## Jakusonfire

Because the water temp is directly tied to ambient temp. An absolute water temp can be impossible to achieve in summer so fans just run faster than needed or it can be higher than what is easily achievable in winter.
An air water delta will always provide the best possible balance of temperate and noise.


----------



## VSG

Having it bound to absolute temperature also will result in fans/pumps ramping up and down a lot depending on how you set it. I personally do set it to absolute temperature as well but with a smoother curve than most people because of a nearly constant ambient room temperature throughout the year.


----------



## electro2u

I have a LOT to learn...


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> The aquaero 5 has a slightly different PWM implementation with a simple pull-up but if it works with the D5 pump or other stuff is more a 50/50 thing.
> 
> If you need an official answer: it will not work.


Thks mate. I just got the Aq 5 LT. Bought this one for a second PC and I did test the pwm functionality with the d5. I can attest that I can control my d5 pwm on the full range from 800 rpm to ~4800 without problems. You mention there is a 50/50 chance of been able to control it or not. Can you clarify to me why? There is actually two versions of the 5 lt or something like that?


----------



## LostParticle

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LostParticle*
> 
> I have one question, I hope I am not off topic, IF it is something relatively easy, please answer :
> 
> - How can I change the background color of a Data Binding object, in Aquasuite?
> 
> thank you


Some good people from another, great, forum have helped me! I will leave their answer here, in case someone wishes to know:


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



To change the default background color in a Data binding object -at least in this one I was interested to try- you do the following:
1. Put the following line in a comment, like this:

Code:



Code:


<!-- <Rectangle Grid.Row="0" Grid.RowSpan="2" Style="{StaticResource GadgetBackgroundStyle}"/> -->

2. Enter this below:

Code:



Code:


<Rectangle Grid.Row="0" Grid.RowSpan="2" Fill="#FF138B13" />

Of course, #FF138B13 is just an example, you can use whatever color you like.

Another one of my problems was that some values were brought -from HWiNFO64- into the Aquasuite having 3 decimal digits! For example, the current DownLoad rate!

IF you wish to control the number of decimals in any value, in a Data Binding object, enter the following command in the Label of the respective value:

Code:



Code:


ContentStringFormat="{}{0:Ν2} kB/s"

N2 means 2 decimals and kB/s is from my own example. You can replace those with what will suit you.

I hope those who look for this kind of info will be helped


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> @IT Diva can i ask why does the PWM mod work ? i have basic knowledge about electrical components ( like diodes/resistors ect ) do i dont need an in depth explanation. just a quickie is fine ( meaning i wouldnt understand an in depth explanation )
> 
> 
> 
> It very simply uses a resistor and a 5.1V zener diode on the 12V supply pins to create a 5.1V voltage source.
> 
> That 5.1V source then has a resistor to the PWM pin to "pull it up" to 5.1V.
> 
> When an A6 channel is in PWM mode, it puts 12V at the power pins of the fan header, which makes for a handy place to derive the 5V pullup source.
> 
> Normally, by Intel Standard, PWM devices have the PWM line "pulled up" via a resistor to a nominally 5V source internally.
> 
> The PWM D5 doesn't have that internal pullup, (a design compromise that allows the pump run at 60% instead of 100% with no PWM connection) so you have to add it externally to control it with the A6, since the A6 doesn't have it built in.
> 
> Some mobos have the 5V pullup built in, although they are not mandated to by the Intel standard, so that's why sometimes PWM D5's seem to work fine from mobo CPU fan control.
> 
> Overall, the issue is unique to the PWM D5, because the other common PWM pump, the 35X, *does have* the internal pullup you'd expect it to. (it also runs at max speed with no PWM connection just like PWM fans do)
> 
> Darlene
Click to expand...

thanks so much now it makes since


----------



## Shoggy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Thks mate. I just got the Aq 5 LT. Bought this one for a second PC and I did test the pwm functionality with the d5. I can attest that I can control my d5 pwm on the full range from 800 rpm to ~4800 without problems. You mention there is a 50/50 chance of been able to control it or not. Can you clarify to me why? There is actually two versions of the 5 lt or something like that?


It is what I have been told by our electronic technician. It seems to have something to do with the signal levels - no idea...

There exist several different revisions of the aquaero 5 boards but none of them had ever changes on the PWM part of the 4th fan channel.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Thks mate. I just got the Aq 5 LT. Bought this one for a second PC and I did test the pwm functionality with the d5. I can attest that I can control my d5 pwm on the full range from 800 rpm to ~4800 without problems. You mention there is a 50/50 chance of been able to control it or not. Can you clarify to me why? There is actually two versions of the 5 lt or something like that?
> 
> 
> 
> It is what I have been told by our electronic technician. It seems to have something to do with the signal levels - no idea...
> 
> There exist several different revisions of the aquaero 5 boards but none of them had ever changes on the PWM part of the 4th fan channel.
Click to expand...

If you'd like to send me one, or some, of the 5 series, to look at with the scope and put up some definitive values and analyze loading effect variables, relative particularly to the PWM aspects, I'd be happy to accept . . . . .

Darlene


----------



## Shoggy

I will not be able to help you with such a device.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> I will not be able to help you with such a device.


I'd have been remiss in my investigative duties not to have asked, lol . . . . .

D.


----------



## side37

I've been having trouble with my MPS 400 flow meter in the last month or so where the flow rate reading will out of the blue gradually start dropping to the point it sets off my flow alarms but the actual flow rate hasn't really changed.

I inserted my old Koolance flow meter back into the loop to check the flow rate and the Koolance reports a solid 184l/h while the MPS tends to bounce around 175-195l/h on a good day. I don't know if this amount of variation is normal for the MPS but it hasn't really bothered me hugely until recently. A few times now the flow rate has dropped below 120l/h which triggers the flow alarm and it's even gone below 80l/h which is the threshold to shutdown my system, during this time the Koolance flow meter is still reporting a solid 184l/h!

I have noticed the MPS flow meter is also sensitive to tightening/loosening my reservoir cap, for example sometimes when its giving really low readings I can undo the cap and the reported flow rate jumps back to normal but then gradually starts dropping again. Leaving the cap loose doesn't seem to help it give stable readings.


Does anyone know what's going on here? Is my MPS defective? Do you need to install the MPS a certain way to run reliably? Could there be buildup/gunk from my loop inside the MPS causing bad readings?

I like the MPS as it's truly silent (no moving parts) and adds no restriction to the loop. I don't need high accuracy but these massive variations in reported flow rate are making it useless when it's falsely setting off my flow rate alarms.


----------



## Jakusonfire

Hmmm, that's no good is it. It seems the meter is being affected by pressure changes in the loop rather than there being anything wrong with it physically. I have not observed anything like this with mine. Could we get a picture of the loop?


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *side37*
> 
> I've been having trouble with my MPS 400 flow meter in the last month or so where the flow rate reading will out of the blue gradually start dropping to the point it sets off my flow alarms but the actual flow rate hasn't really changed.
> 
> I inserted my old Koolance flow meter back into the loop to check the flow rate and the Koolance reports a solid 184l/h while the MPS tends to bounce around 175-195l/h on a good day. I don't know if this amount of variation is normal for the MPS but it hasn't really bothered me hugely until recently. A few times now the flow rate has dropped below 120l/h which triggers the flow alarm and it's even gone below 80l/h which is the threshold to shutdown my system, during this time the Koolance flow meter is still reporting a solid 184l/h!
> 
> I have noticed the MPS flow meter is also sensitive to tightening/loosening my reservoir cap, for example sometimes when its giving really low readings I can undo the cap and the reported flow rate jumps back to normal but then gradually starts dropping again. Leaving the cap loose doesn't seem to help it give stable readings.
> 
> 
> Does anyone know what's going on here? Is my MPS defective? Do you need to install the MPS a certain way to run reliably? Could there be buildup/gunk from my loop inside the MPS causing bad readings?
> 
> I like the MPS as it's truly silent (no moving parts) and adds no restriction to the loop. I don't need high accuracy but these massive variations in reported flow rate are making it useless when it's falsely setting off my flow rate alarms.


Would n´t a pressure membrane cap on the reservoir sort this thing out?

like this:

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/16784/ex-tub-1363/Aquacomputer_Pressure_Equalization_Membrane_G14_Thread_-_Tall_Version_53138.html?tl=c229s1382b200&id=tnIoGedz&mv_pc=420


----------



## Jakusonfire

The membranes just stop pressure build up the same as if the top of the Res is left off and he said he tried that.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> The membranes just stop pressure build up the same as if the top of the Res is left off and he said he tried that.


True, I missed that part in his post where he mention it did n´t solve the problem left open the cap.


----------



## DanielCoffey

I am setting up my first Aquaero 6 and I have a question about using the Curve Controller that I have not been able to find with a search of the thread. Let me describe the setup...

The PC is a single 4770K at 4.5GHz, single 780ti at 1274 gpu / 7800 mem. There are two 360 rads with 6 Noctua NF-F12 PWM fans grouped as Push and 6 more as Pull. Three NF-S12 PWM fans are on the Case. At the moment there is a single water temperature sensor connected. My air ambient temperatures are relatively stable and northern temperate.

When the PC is relatively idle, I want the Push group and Case group to be on a gentle curve from 20C / 35% up to 40C / 100% and the Pull group to be off. When I am gaming, I want the Pull group to come on and assist so I have set up a Curve from 30C / 35% to 40C / 100% with a start temperature of 31C.

This works fine when I first tested it but when I stopped gaming and the temperature dropped below 30C, the Pull group stayed on. I waited till the temperature settled down to around 26C and Pull were still on.

Do I have to select the first point on the Pull curve and drop it to 0% to force the Pull fans to stop when the temp drops below 30C?

On the subject of temperatures, I have no idea if the probe is calibrated but even when the PC is first turned on and ambient is around 16C, the probe reports about 22C. When idle the temperature climbs and settles to about 24C. When gaming (ETS2 or Skyrim) the probe climbs past 31C and the Pull group comes on. The temperature then peaks at 34C until gaming stops. In your opinion, are these water temperatures tolerable?


----------



## side37

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> Hmmm, that's no good is it. It seems the meter is being affected by pressure changes in the loop rather than there being anything wrong with it physically. I have not observed anything like this with mine. Could we get a picture of the loop?


Does your flow reading move at all or is it solid? My problem is quite intermittent in that it will work fine for weeks giving a reading that's in the rough ballpark (170-200l/h) of what the Koolance meter shows (184l/h) but then one day it just drops down into alarm territory then later return to normal (although I think I may be seeing a pattern that it comes good AFTER a power cycle - usually I leave my system on 24/7).

My loop is quite large volume wise (over 3 litres). The layout is: Photon res/D5 -> Koolance D5 -> EK serial terminal (2xGPUs) -> XT45 360 rad -> MORA3 420 rad -> Koolance 380i CPU block -> UT60 240 rad -> MPS flow 400 -> ST30 240 rad -> Photon res.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Would n´t a pressure membrane cap on the reservoir sort this thing out?


Yeah I'm planning to get one of them anyway but I don't think it'll fix the problem as it still occurs with the cap loose so I think there's more going on.


----------



## side37

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DanielCoffey*
> 
> This works fine when I first tested it but when I stopped gaming and the temperature dropped below 30C, the Pull group stayed on. I waited till the temperature settled down to around 26C and Pull were still on.
> 
> Do I have to select the first point on the Pull curve and drop it to 0% to force the Pull fans to stop when the temp drops below 30C?


I would check the fan channel settings as they affect how it reacts to the curve controls. What is the minimum power set to? Maybe you have 'hold minimum power' enabled on the pull fan channel?


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *side37*
> 
> I've been having trouble with my MPS 400 flow meter in the last month or so where the flow rate reading will out of the blue gradually start dropping to the point it sets off my flow alarms but the actual flow rate hasn't really changed.
> 
> I inserted my old Koolance flow meter back into the loop to check the flow rate and the Koolance reports a solid 184l/h while the MPS tends to bounce around 175-195l/h on a good day. I don't know if this amount of variation is normal for the MPS but it hasn't really bothered me hugely until recently. A few times now the flow rate has dropped below 120l/h which triggers the flow alarm and it's even gone below 80l/h which is the threshold to shutdown my system, during this time the Koolance flow meter is still reporting a solid 184l/h!
> 
> I have noticed the MPS flow meter is also sensitive to tightening/loosening my reservoir cap, for example sometimes when its giving really low readings I can undo the cap and the reported flow rate jumps back to normal but then gradually starts dropping again. Leaving the cap loose doesn't seem to help it give stable readings.
> 
> 
> Does anyone know what's going on here? Is my MPS defective? Do you need to install the MPS a certain way to run reliably? Could there be buildup/gunk from my loop inside the MPS causing bad readings?
> 
> I like the MPS as it's truly silent (no moving parts) and adds no restriction to the loop. I don't need high accuracy but these massive variations in reported flow rate are making it useless when it's falsely setting off my flow rate alarms.


Track your flow meter performance issues against level in the res.

Could be that the res level has dropped a bit over time, and now you're getting entrained air in the system sometimes.

You could top off the res and see it that helps, if you haven't tried that already.

You might also try tipping the PC when the flow drops, like you would to dislodge an air bubble when you bleed, and see if the flow picks back up.

Darlene


----------



## DanielCoffey

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *side37*
> 
> I would check the fan channel settings as they affect how it reacts to the curve controls. What is the minimum power set to? Maybe you have 'hold minimum power' enabled on the pull fan channel?


As far as I can remember it was set to 0-100 with no hold but I will check. I can always use a two-point controller and drop the maximum down to about 40% but I will check the Curve when I get home later.


----------



## DanielCoffey

Right - I have had another look at this and it seems that the Curve Controller latches on when the start-up temperature is exceeded for the first time and never stops when the temperature subsequently falls below the minimum temperature for the curve.

Here is the Fan screen for the Pull fan group...



And here is the Curve Controller showing the Sensor temperature has fallen below the Minimum temperature for the curve but the fans are still running...



With Skyrim running, the water temperature settled between 33-34C. The Push and Case groups were at about 50% and the Pull group was about 35-40%. Once I exited the game the temps fell back over a few minutes to about 27C and the Pull group was still running.


----------



## Gabrielzm

[q


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



uote name="DanielCoffey" url="/t/1474470/ocn-aquaero-owners-club/2070#post_22877810"]Right - I have had another look at this and it seems that the Curve Controller latches on when the start-up temperature is exceeded for the first time and never stops when the temperature subsequently falls below the minimum temperature for the curve.

Here is the Fan screen for the Pull fan group...



And here is the Curve Controller showing the Sensor temperature has fallen below the Minimum temperature for the curve but the fans are still running...



With Skyrim running, the water temperature settled between 33-34C. The Push and Case groups were at about 50% and the Pull group was about 35-40%. Once I exited the game the temps fell back over a few minutes to about 27C and the Pull group was still running.[/quo


te]

Perhaps try to put manually those two points before the threshold to zero on the pull controller?


----------



## DanielCoffey

That does seem to work.

I set the first point at 30C, 0% and then set the next one at 30.1C, 35%. The fans kicked in as expected once they hit the trigger temp then ramped up as expected as heat increased. Once gaming was over they drifted down to the 30.1C point then collapsed to zero gracefully over a couple of seconds as the PWM fell too low to keep the fan spinning.

The next thing I did was to add one of the temperature sensors that came with the AQ6 to monitor the air intake so that I could set up a Water / Air delta virtual sensor. I adjusted the curves to read that sensor and set the Push group to run from 4 to 15C, hitting 50% at 10C delta. I told the Pull group to run from 8 to 15C, hitting 50% at 12C. When idle I have a 4C delta and when gaming I have a 9-11C delta depending on how hard the GPU is pushed. That gives me the Push fans at 50% and the Pull fans at about 35-40% and keeps everything under control.

Thanks for the comments, folks - I think I am sorted now.


----------



## Gabrielzm

good, glad that did the tricky


----------



## 7akata

Just finished my build and had a quick question. My Aquaero 6XT tested good, but now that I've connected the USB header to the MB, it appears to no longer be working. My fans are all still running off the device, but the LCD screen doesn't light up at all anymore, it's not recognized by the computer, and it doesn't respond to the remote. Any thoughts on this? Thank you!


----------



## Mega Man

are you sure you connected the usb correctly ? i had a similar issue when ( with lack of sleep ) i messed up rpm with flow

that AQ died :/


----------



## 7akata

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> are you sure you connected the usb correctly ? i had a similar issue when ( with lack of sleep ) i messed up rpm with flow
> 
> that AQ died :/


At first I plugged the USB in wrong (bsckwsrds) but it was in the correct slot. Could it be something as simple as that killed a $200 devicd? Its still powering my fans though.


----------



## electro2u

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *7akata*
> 
> At first I plugged the USB in wrong (bsckwsrds) but it was in the correct slot. Could it be something as simple as that killed a $200 devicd? Its still powering my fans though.


Thought I killed mine during setup and turned out one of my molex connections was shorting out. It wouldn't do anything at all.


----------



## 7akata

[/quote]
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> Thought I killed mine during setup and turned out one of my molex connections was shorting out. It wouldn't do anything at all.


Did it by chance still run the fans?


----------



## electro2u

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *7akata*
> url="/t/1474470/ocn-aquaero-owners-club/2070#post_22881679"
> Did it by chance still run the fans?


Nope. Sort of opposite. No fans but the display worked and it was being detected by the OS. Simplify the molex connection to the aquaero to test?


----------



## 7akata

Will test the Molex in the morning and post results. Thanks for the help so far!


----------



## 7akata

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> Nope. Sort of opposite. No fans but the display worked and it was being detected by the OS. Simplify the molex connection to the aquaero to test?


No joy with different Molex cable. Fans are still going strong but no response or power coming from the Aquaero itself. Kind of at a loss, since I would assume the unit is getting power because the fans are being driven off of it.

Edit: Probably dumb, but there's not some hidden on/off switch is there?


----------



## electro2u

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *7akata*
> 
> No joy with different Molex cable. Fans are still going strong but no response or power coming from the Aquaero itself. Kind of at a loss, since I would assume the unit is getting power because the fans are being driven off of it.
> 
> Edit: Probably dumb, but there's not some hidden on/off switch is there?


No. No hidden switch. There's a factory reset procedure but I don't remember it. You've tried other usb ports on the motherboard?


----------



## 7akata

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> No. No hidden switch. There's a factory reset procedure but I don't remember it. You've tried other usb ports on the motherboard?


There are three on the R4BE, and I've tried 2 of them, I'll give the third a try. It's just weird that it was working before though, when I didn't even have the USB connected.


----------



## WHIMington

The plastic acrylic panel keep popping out, is there anything that could hold them in place? I was thinking of using double side tapes, but that makese removing the tape almost impossible.


----------



## Shoggy

@7akata you could try a full reset:

1.) Turn off the PC and remove all connections with exception of power and USB.

2.) Place four jumpers on the temperature sensor connectors 5 to 8.

3.) Power on the system and after a short moment you should see a recovery mode screen in the aquaero display and the device should also beep two times.

4.) Turn the PC off and remove the jumpers from the aquaero.

5.) Start the PC and use the latest aquasuite 2014 software to flash the firmware onto the aquaero.

6.) Turn off the PC, connect all sensors etc. again and start the PC.

If it does not help I assume the device is faulty and must be returned.

@WHIMington: We even used double sided tape ourself for the first batches and later glue that we apply via screen printing method. Using some super glue should also to the job but of course it could be hard to remove if necessary.

If nothing helps you need a new front and should contact us for an exchange.


----------



## WHIMington

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> @WHIMington: We even used double sided tape ourself for the first batches and later glue that we apply via screen printing method. Using some super glue should also to the job but of course it could be hard to remove if necessary.
> 
> If nothing helps you need a new front and should contact us for an exchange.


I think its the glue on the touch panel that are the problem(too much dust stick onto it), I think I will just stick with double side tape


----------



## massimo40mq

Hi all I have a problem I think with one of the 3 I have a Poweradjust aquareo 6 XT can not seem to connect them in parallel with each other to see them in aquasuite, I see only one and when I try to connect the other I do not see anything .. Among the top I think the problem is that windows does not recognize the usb, I always mistake with one of them and I think it's a failure. Can someone please make me an outline of how these components are to be connected?
2 Poweradjust 3 connected to Aquareo 6 xt via Aquabus and alternative usb .. Thanks to all.


----------



## yesdoitmorelike

can anyone tell me which of these is the right diode to use with the pwm extension cable to make the swiftech pwm d5 (single) controllable via the aquaro 6? Also will the diode need soldering or do i just push the ends into the pins? tx,

http://www.amazon.co.uk/s/ref=nb_sb_noss?url=search-alias%3Daps&field-keywords=5.1V%20Zener%20diode


----------



## SinatraFan

Does the clock only keep time if I add that clock module? Or is there a setting or alternative that I'm unaware of. I have to say that for the money you pay for this, you would think it would remember time.


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SinatraFan*
> 
> Does the clock only keep time if I add that clock module? Or is there a setting or alternative that I'm unaware of. I have to say that for the money you pay for this, you would think it would remember time.


It "remembers" time as long as it has power. It can use standby power for this. This is enough functionality for most people. It only affects the logging and data analysis/display functionality.

But if you turn your PC off at the wall, then the Aquaero will "forget" and will only get the correct time again when you start Windows and the AQ data service is loaded.

So the RTC upgrade module is a solution for this. It has a battery so can keep time independently of the PC.

To recap the clock module is only for people who: a) turn their PC off at the wall; *and* b) actually care about having the correct timestamps for data that was gathered when the computer was switched off or running Linux.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yesdoitmorelike*
> 
> can anyone tell me which of these is the right diode to use with the pwm extension cable to make the swiftech pwm d5 (single) controllable via the aquaro 6? Also will the diode need soldering or do i just push the ends into the pins? tx,
> 
> http://www.amazon.co.uk/s/ref=nb_sb_noss?url=search-alias%3Daps&field-keywords=5.1V%20Zener%20diode


I'd pick this one for its 1.3W rating and more durable DO41 form factor. It seems cheap, since that's the price for 10, if I read the page correctly . . . . so I'd be sure to test for 5V on the PWM line before connecting the pump :

http://www.amazon.co.uk/Bzx85C5V1-Diode-Zener-Single-X10Pcs/dp/B00LX6JVLE/ref=sr_1_109?ie=UTF8&qid=1411731737&sr=8-109&keywords=5.1V+Zener+diode

You'll need to order some pins and solder the connections for reliability.

If the Zener diode to gnd pin connection failed, it would put 12 to the PWM pin and very possibly damage the pump or Aquaero.

Here's a close up of the MOD, if you look carefully, you can see 2 green wires in the PWM pin with a 2.2K resistor since this adapter was to test with a dual D5 setup.

For a single pump, you can use a 3.3K or 4,7K resistor in place of the 2,2K.



Darlene


----------



## Mega Man

might i suggest putting it in the op ??


----------



## Shoggy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SinatraFan*
> 
> Does the clock only keep time if I add that clock module? Or is there a setting or alternative that I'm unaware of. I have to say that for the money you pay for this, you would think it would remember time.


I hope you already installed the aquasuite software because it also installs a Windows service that syncs the date and time. As WiSK already mentioned the aquaero keeps these settings as long as you do not turn of the power completely. The USB standby power is enough to keep it alive.


----------



## SinatraFan

i have not installed yet. is there a download link for it?


----------



## Shoggy

Taa taa


----------



## Captaincaveman

Hi all,
I have an 8 core cpu and 3 gfx cards. I would like to see them all in AquaSuite, but there are only 8 software sensors which comes up short.
Any way around that?

Nevermind, figured it out








On the overview page (which is where I wanted them available) I can add readings from AIDA64 without adding them first as software monitors.

2 more question, I have the mps flow 400. I has an internal temperature sensor. Does it read the temperature of the water going through the flow meter, or that of some chip or other component within?
If it's water temp, how can I use it to control radiator fans? I don't see it anywhere under sensors and can't find it as a source for software sensor.


----------



## Shoggy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Captaincaveman*
> 
> Hi all,
> I have an 8 core cpu and 3 gfx cards. I would like to see them all in AquaSuite, but there are only 8 software sensors which comes up short.
> Any way around that?


The aquaero can only handle eight software sensors as maximum but in the aquasuite you can add as many sensors as you want into an overview page:



Create a new page or unlock an existing one and add new items through a right click.


----------



## Captaincaveman

Thanks for the answer, didn't refresh the page before editing so I missed it.
I'll paste the additional questions added to my previous post:

I have the mps flow 400. I has an internal temperature sensor. Does it read the temperature of the water going through the flow meter, or that of some chip or other component within?
If it's water temp, how can I use it to control radiator fans? I don't see it anywhere under sensors and can't find it as a source for software sensor.


----------



## Shoggy

It reads the water temperature and it MUST be listed in the sensor tab if you have also connected the sensor with an aquabus cable to the aquaero.


----------



## Captaincaveman

Sorry, should have mentioned that I have it connected to the motherboard via usb cable.
Is there a way to get it working when it's connected via usb?


----------



## Mega Man

news update, i have a new AQ6XT otw for my s3 build, although it is not a new mod i am going to separate the PCB from the display as there is not enough room behind the rad ports,


----------



## Shoggy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Captaincaveman*
> 
> Sorry, should have mentioned that I have it connected to the motherboard via usb cable.
> Is there a way to get it working when it's connected via usb?


No, this requires an aquabus connection.


----------



## Captaincaveman

Thanks for the help!

Is there a way to select which monitor AquaSuite is using when showing a page on the desktop?


----------



## Shoggy

The aquasuite takes the entire available space for the desktop mode so you only have to move your stuff more to the right for example. Watch out for the scroll bar


----------



## yesdoitmorelike

is 4 the maximum number of virtual sensors? i have 4 and cant see any way to create another. tx.


----------



## Shoggy

It is the maximum.


----------



## massimo40mq

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> It is the maximum.


Hi all I have a problem I think with one of the 3 I have a Poweradjust aquareo 6 XT can not seem to connect them in parallel with each other to see them in aquasuite, I see only one and when I try to connect the other I do not see anything .. Among the top I think the problem is that windows does not recognize the usb, I always mistake with one of them and I think it's a failure. Can someone please make me an outline of how these components are to be connected?
2 Poweradjust 3 connected to Aquareo 6 xt via Aquabus and alternative usb .. Thanks to all.


----------



## Shoggy

You have to assign different aquabus ID numbers to the poweradjust controllers. That can be done in the system tab of the poweradjust when it is connected via USB.

It does not matter how you connect the poweradjust to the aquabus as long as it is connected in some way. It is a real bus system.


----------



## massimo40mq

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> You have to assign different aquabus ID numbers to the poweradjust controllers. That can be done in the system tab of the poweradjust when it is connected via USB.
> 
> It does not matter how you connect the poweradjust to the aquabus as long as it is connected in some way. It is a real bus system.


The problem 'that the pa3 fails to recognize usb windows so I do not understand if and' fault or not. The output fan works but if I try to link them together should not be more than anything. because if I connect usb windows do not riconose while the other pa3 and 'ok?


----------



## Captaincaveman

Thanks! I got it to show on my right hand side monitor








Now to order an aquabus cable


----------



## Blackspots

Am I right in saying that the only real difference between the 5 LT and the 6 Pro/XT is the LCD screen the Pro and XT have (and the remote of the XT)?


----------



## Mega Man

also the 4 full channels are pwm compatible vs the 1 on the 5lt/pro/xt

the 5 needs at least a hs due to the VRM heat where as the 6 does not


----------



## electro2u

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blackspots*
> 
> Am I right in saying that the only real difference between the 5 LT and the 6 Pro/XT is the LCD screen the Pro and XT have (and the remote of the XT)?


I'm told you can't control 12v plain old d5 pumps with any of the previous models. I wish I had realized I could just go that route instead of the vario which is either loud and strong or weak and quiet in my setup (setting 2 vs setting 3 makes a big difference on my bay res, which I am kinda attached to even though it's a bit noisy)

I've compared vrm temps on my 6 xt (with heatsink) and a buddies 5 pro and its a major difference. Major. They worked some magic on the 6th gem aquaero.


----------



## nyck

hello my " conpaesano" you must connect the poweradjust one at time only with the usb cable and then you must assign a different ID number es. 51,52, 53, etc.
when you have do this you can connect by aquabus cable


----------



## Shoggy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *massimo40mq*
> 
> The problem 'that the pa3 fails to recognize usb windows so I do not understand if and' fault or not. The output fan works but if I try to link them together should not be more than anything. because if I connect usb windows do not riconose while the other pa3 and 'ok?


So none of your poweradjust is being recognized via USB? - That is hard to believe and I guess you are doing something wrong or there is a major issue with your system. Make sure that you have the correct orientation for the USB cable. If you have a second PC you maybe should try one of them there.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blackspots*
> 
> Am I right in saying that the only real difference between the 5 LT and the 6 Pro/XT is the LCD screen the Pro and XT have (and the remote of the XT)?


The major difference between the aquaero 5 and 6 are the voltage regulators. The aquaero 5 uses a classical analog control which generates a lot of heat - especially when you slow down the fans or a pump. The aquaero 6 uses digital switching controllers with a very high efficiency which can take higher loads in general and also other than the aquaero 5 it generates not much heat. When you slow down the fans or a pump it works completely in the other direction and the temperature will fall.

The downside of this are the much higher production costs. When we designed the aquaero 5 we already had this stuff in mind but had to forget it pretty fast because a few years ago the necessary parts where much larger and the costs were way too high to end up with a reasonable price.


----------



## massimo40mq

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> So none of your poweradjust is being recognized via USB? - That is hard to believe and I guess you are doing something wrong or there is a major issue with your system. Make sure that you have the correct orientation for the USB cable. If you have a second PC you maybe should try one of them there.
> The major difference between the aquaero 5 and 6 are the voltage regulators. The aquaero 5 uses a classical analog control which generates a lot of heat - especially when you slow down the fans or a pump. The aquaero 6 uses digital switching controllers with a very high efficiency which can take higher loads in general and also other than the aquaero 5 it generates not much heat. When you slow down the fans or a pump it works completely in the other direction and the temperature will fall.
> 
> The downside of this are the much higher production costs. When we designed the aquaero 5 we already had this stuff in mind but had to forget it pretty fast because a few years ago the necessary parts where much larger and the costs were way too high to end up with a reasonable price.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> So none of your poweradjust is being recognized via USB? - That is hard to believe and I guess you are doing something wrong or there is a major issue with your system. Make sure that you have the correct orientation for the USB cable. If you have a second PC you maybe should try one of them there.
> The major difference between the aquaero 5 and 6 are the voltage regulators. The aquaero 5 uses a classical analog control which generates a lot of heat - especially when you slow down the fans or a pump. The aquaero 6 uses digital switching controllers with a very high efficiency which can take higher loads in general and also other than the aquaero 5 it generates not much heat. When you slow down the fans or a pump it works completely in the other direction and the temperature will fall.
> 
> The downside of this are the much higher production costs. When we designed the aquaero 5 we already had this stuff in mind but had to forget it pretty fast because a few years ago the necessary parts where much larger and the costs were way too high to end up with a reasonable price.


No shoggy only one is not recognized by Windows. L I also tried by booting with a different system but Windows does not recognize anything. The strange thing is that in aquareo sees him as a fan and it works but if I put it in parallel with other pa not good so as to be connected in USB! What can be the problem? Thanks for your help .. shoggy


----------



## Blackspots

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> The major difference between the aquaero 5 and 6 are the voltage regulators. The aquaero 5 uses a classical analog control which generates a lot of heat - especially when you slow down the fans or a pump. The aquaero 6 uses digital switching controllers with a very high efficiency which can take higher loads in general and also other than the aquaero 5 it generates not much heat. When you slow down the fans or a pump it works completely in the other direction and the temperature will fall.
> 
> The downside of this are the much higher production costs. When we designed the aquaero 5 we already had this stuff in mind but had to forget it pretty fast because a few years ago the necessary parts where much larger and the costs were way too high to end up with a reasonable price.


Hmm... so no plans on making an Aquaero 6 LT version? (Though, I do like the display on the 6 XT/Pro because you can show things like a clock on it)


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blackspots*
> 
> Hmm... so no plans on making an Aquaero 6 LT version? (Though, I do like the display on the 6 XT/Pro because you can show things like a clock on it)


Buy the AQ6 Pro and remove the part with the screen on it


----------



## Blackspots

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> Buy the AQ6 Pro and remove the part with the screen on it


LOL, that's just wasting $200 if you do that. Better to keep the screen (as that's one reason for buying it)


----------



## gdubc

How did the 6lt from *Super Monsta* come about?


----------



## VSG

By having Aquacomputer sponsor the build


----------



## gdubc

Anyone know if it's coming for all?


----------



## VSG

Probably not for retail based on what Shoggy said.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blackspots*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> Buy the AQ6 Pro and remove the part with the screen on it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> LOL, that's just wasting $200 if you do that. Better to keep the screen (as that's one reason for buying it)
Click to expand...

not if you need a AQ6 then it is what you have to do


----------



## ppkstat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> The aquaero 5 uses a classical analog control which generates a lot of heat - especially when you slow down the fans or a pump. The aquaero 6 uses digital switching controllers with a very high efficiency which can take higher loads in general and also other than the aquaero 5 it generates not much heat. When you slow down the fans or a pump it works completely in the other direction and the temperature will fall.


I'm a bit confused...does that mean that the aq6 does not provide true analog output? Are there any issues with clicking sounds when controlling 3-pin fans with aq6?


----------



## Blackspots

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ppkstat*
> 
> I'm a bit confused...does that mean that the aq6 does not provide true analog output? Are there any issues with clicking sounds when controlling 3-pin fans with aq6?


No, and apparently the digital output switches fast enough to simulate being analog.


----------



## Wolfsbora

I just upgraded to Windows 8.1 (I had received the key from school as part of the Dreamworks program) so that I'll be ready for Windows 9. With that said, Aquasuite will recognize AIDA64 and will allow me to select what I want for the Software Sensor, but after it is selected it is showing as 'ohm' and not AIDA 64 under the 'Use sensor with Aqua Computer Service'. Thus not allowing me to pull in the temperature. Any suggestions on how to fix this? AIDA 64 has been configured correctly to allow for external apps to utilize its temps.


----------



## Shoggy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *massimo40mq*
> 
> The strange thing is that in aquareo sees him as a fan and it works but if I put it in parallel with other pa not good so as to be connected in USB! What can be the problem?


If you use two poweradjust with the aquaero you have to make sure that they use different aquabus ID numbers. This value can be only changed when the controller is connected via USB. It should be enough the change the ID of the correctly working controller since the faulty one should still use its default ID number. I have no idea why one controller does not work via USB - maybe it is damaged.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blackspots*
> 
> Hmm... so no plans on making an Aquaero 6 LT version?


There are currently no plans to offer an aquaero 6 LT.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gdubc*
> 
> How did the 6lt from *Super Monsta* come about?


As the big sticker on his box says: "Sonderanfertigung" means it is a custom-made product and not a regular one. An no, not anyone can order it like that. It was just made this way because of his mod.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ppkstat*
> 
> I'm a bit confused...does that mean that the aq6 does not provide true analog output? Are there any issues with clicking sounds when controlling 3-pin fans with aq6?


No, it has no effect on the fans or a pump. The aquaero 6 has nothing but advantage over all its predecessor.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wolfsbora*
> 
> I just upgraded to Windows 8.1 (I had received the key from school as part of the Dreamworks program) so that I'll be ready for Windows 9. With that said, Aquasuite will recognize AIDA64 and will allow me to select what I want for the Software Sensor, but after it is selected it is showing as 'ohm' and not AIDA 64 under the 'Use sensor with Aqua Computer Service'. Thus not allowing me to pull in the temperature. Any suggestions on how to fix this? AIDA 64 has been configured correctly to allow for external apps to utilize its temps.


We are not aware of any problems here. Do you also use Open Hardware Monitor at the same time? Maybe you should install the aquasuite again and select a to perform a new installation so the config and database files will be reset. You can also do the manually by deleting the folder C:\ProgramData\aquasuite-data.


----------



## massimo40mq

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> If you use two poweradjust with the aquaero you have to make sure that they use different aquabus ID numbers. This value can be only changed when the controller is connected via USB. It should be enough the change the ID of the correctly working controller since the faulty one should still use its default ID number. I have no idea why one controller does not work via USB - maybe it is damaged.
> There are currently no plans to offer an aquaero 6 LT.
> As the big sticker on his box says: "Sonderanfertigung" means it is a custom-made product and not a regular one. An no, not anyone can order it like that. It was just made this way because of his mod.
> No, it has no effect on the fans or a pump. The aquaero 6 has nothing but advantage over all its predecessor.
> We are not aware of any problems here. Do you also use Open Hardware Monitor at the same time? Maybe you should install the aquasuite again and select a to perform a new installation so the config and database files will be reset. You can also do the manually by deleting the folder C:\ProgramData\aquasuite-data.


I'm trying to change the id number Aquabus via the controller 6 aquareo but I can not find in the menu 'aq6. Could you indicate in which section menu can I find? Thanks.


----------



## Shoggy

You have to change this setting in the poweradjust menu; not in the aquaero menu:



This menu is only visible when the poweradjust is connected via USB and has power from the power supply unit.


----------



## massimo40mq

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> You have to change this setting in the poweradjust menu; not in the aquaero menu:
> 
> 
> 
> This menu is only visible when the poweradjust is connected via USB and has power from the power supply unit.


That's why I thought it was not







. Thanks anyway but already know how to usb does not recognize it and then I'll need a signature for this pa3 .. Thank you very much for your help, Have a nice day.


----------



## Captaincaveman

I cannot seem to be able to setup a curve controller for my dual mcp-655 pumps.
Pumps get their power from molex and are connected to fan header number 4 of the AQ6 with a splitter (4 pin all the way). I have RPM reading on that fan header.
In aquasuite I got to Fans, select Fan 4, click advanced setting and select PWM controlled.
Then I go to controllers, click the big plus sign at the top to add another one and select curve as its type.
I select one of the sensors as data source for the controller and fan 4 as output.
If minimum power (in fans) for fan 4 is set to anything below 100, the pumps stop completely.

Any tips?


----------



## VSG

Isn't the MCP655 just a D5 Vario? It is controlled via the knob on the back, not by changing PWM signal.

Does anyone know if it is possible to mute the AQ6 touch screen, especially the Up and Down buttons?


----------



## Mega Man

Yes you can but I am not at home to tell you how


----------



## VSG

Thanks for the tease


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Isn't the MCP655 just a D5 Vario? It is controlled via the knob on the back, not by changing PWM signal.


Swiftech definitely sells a PWM version of the MCP655.
https://www.google.com/search?q=Swiftech+MCP655-PWM
Not sure if that's what Captaincaveman has or not, but if it came with a 4-pin fan connector and a 4-pin molex then that's what it sounds like.


----------



## VSG

Looks to be a FCPU/Swiftech exclusive, but good to know. I was aware of PWM D5s but wasn't aware of the MCP655 variant of it


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Looks to be a FCPU/Swiftech exclusive, but good to know. I was aware of PWM D5s but wasn't aware of the MCP655 variant of it


XSPC, EK, Alphacool all of them offer now the D5 PWM variant:

http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalogsearch/result/?q=d5+pwm

btw I should known about the mute thing since I did that....Let's see if I can recall. Ok, go to user interface, keys, keys tone and then "off".


----------



## Mega Man

swiftech was the first for pwm d5s though iirc


----------



## VSG

Thanks a lot, I don't have aquasuite to use since this is all on a test loop but I got the gist. +1 for the replies!


----------



## WHIMington

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Captaincaveman*
> 
> I cannot seem to be able to setup a curve controller for my dual mcp-655 pumps.
> Pumps get their power from molex and are connected to fan header number 4 of the AQ6 with a splitter (4 pin all the way). I have RPM reading on that fan header.
> In aquasuite I got to Fans, select Fan 4, click advanced setting and select PWM controlled.
> Then I go to controllers, click the big plus sign at the top to add another one and select curve as its type.
> I select one of the sensors as data source for the controller and fan 4 as output.
> If minimum power (in fans) for fan 4 is set to anything below 100, the pumps stop completely.
> 
> Any tips?


Every PWM D5 pump on the market required a pullup mod to function normally

Check Darlene's post for details of the mod
http://www.overclock.net/t/1474470/ocn-aquaero-owners-club/50#post_21956203


----------



## Shoggy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Thanks a lot, I don't have aquasuite to use since this is all on a test loop but I got the gist. +1 for the replies!


Can be also done directly at the device. Main menu tree -> user interface -> keys -> key tone.


----------



## Captaincaveman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WHIMington*
> 
> Every PWM D5 pump on the market required a pullup mod to function normally
> 
> Check Darlene's post for details of the mod
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1474470/ocn-aquaero-owners-club/50#post_21956203


Doh... don't really have the equipment or skills to do that.
Is there any pre-made cabe/pcb I can buy?


----------



## yesdoitmorelike

i would like one too, i asked darlene if she would do one for me and charge me but she said the post was more than the parts and passed.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Thanks a lot, I don't have aquasuite to use since this is all on a test loop but I got the gist. +1 for the replies!


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Thanks a lot, I don't have aquasuite to use since this is all on a test loop but I got the gist. +1 for the replies!
> 
> 
> 
> Can be also done directly at the device. Main menu tree -> user interface -> keys -> key tone.
Click to expand...


----------



## Captaincaveman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yesdoitmorelike*
> 
> i would like one too, i asked darlene if she would do one for me and charge me but she said the post was more than the parts and passed.


That's too bad


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Captaincaveman*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *yesdoitmorelike*
> 
> i would like one too, i asked darlene if she would do one for me and charge me but she said the post was more than the parts and passed.
> 
> 
> 
> That's too bad
Click to expand...

Maybe if there's enough of you guys that need these, you could persuade Swiftech to make them available . . . it would certainly help them sell more pumps as well, so it should be a win / win for everyone.

For them, they'd have the economy of scale, in place production facilities, and so on . . .

For me, I'd have to order wire, a number of components, pay the Priority Mail shipping, make each one individually, and then package it and ship it out Priority Mail,

There'd be about $15 in postage, $5 in parts and wire, $10 labor at min wage, per unit . . . .

If I made them here, I'd have to sell what should be a $5 to $8 cable for $35+, just to break even . . . and I didn't figure in time and gas to pick up stuff at the post office or drop it off to ship it out. . . . . not to mention sleeving . . . .

You can see why we don't have much manufacturing in the Virgin Islands, well except for Rum.

Darlene

Edit to add . . .

If I do pictorial step by step . . . . do you think it would help . . .

I can give a parts list for Jameco Electronics that sells in smaller quantities to hobbyists for wire and components.

I'll have to check if they have the connector pins and shells . . . . would be nice to source everything from one supplier . . . maybe I'll have to check Digikey.

Maybe you guys in major cities like Houston, with electronics schools like ITT, could approach the school and get a skilled student to make a bunch of these things up affordably?


----------



## pathfindercod

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Thanks a lot, I don't have aquasuite to use since this is all on a test loop but I got the gist. +1 for the replies!


I bought one of these to hook my 6xt up to my laptop to test and play with aquasuite. It also helped me get everything tested and pre-setup and make sure it all worked before finalizing my wire management and tie downs. So I didn't run the risk of having to tear it all back down afterwards for fans not working right, flow meter or temp probes etc.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000V6WD8A/ref=redir_mdp_mobile?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00


----------



## WHIMington

The pullup mod is easy enough with some basic tools TBH, basic skills like soldiering is not hard to learn as well.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Captaincaveman*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *yesdoitmorelike*
> 
> i would like one too, i asked darlene if she would do one for me and charge me but she said the post was more than the parts and passed.
> 
> 
> 
> That's too bad
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Maybe if there's enough of you guys that need these, you could persuade Swiftech to make them available . . . it would certainly help them sell more pumps as well, so it should be a win / win for everyone.
> 
> For them, they'd have the economy of scale, in place production facilities, and so on . . .
> 
> For me, I'd have to order wire, a number of components, pay the Priority Mail shipping, make each one individually, and then package it and ship it out Priority Mail,
> 
> There'd be about $15 in postage, $5 in parts and wire, $10 labor at min wage, per unit . . . .
> 
> If I made them here, I'd have to sell what should be a $5 to $8 cable for $35+, just to break even . . . and I didn't figure in time and gas to pick up stuff at the post office or drop it off to ship it out. . . . . not to mention sleeving . . . .
> 
> You can see why we don't have much manufacturing in the Virgin Islands, well except for Rum.
> 
> Darlene
> 
> Edit to add . . .
> 
> If I do pictorial step by step . . . . do you think it would help . . .
> 
> I can give a parts list for Jameco Electronics that sells in smaller quantities to hobbyists for wire and components.
> 
> I'll have to check if they have the connector pins and shells . . . . would be nice to source everything from one supplier . . . maybe I'll have to check Digikey.
> 
> Maybe you guys in major cities like Houston, with electronics schools like ITT, could approach the school and get a skilled student to make a bunch of these things up affordably?
Click to expand...

not to mention i dont believe min wage is a fair wage to pay for this i think you did alot already by making the list for the mod, but i am extremely grateful for it !
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WHIMington*
> 
> The pullup mod is easy enough with some basic tools TBH, basic skills like soldiering is not hard to learn as well.


i agree


----------



## Captaincaveman

Darlene, thank you for all the info and effort! A step by step for dummies would be great


----------



## electro2u

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Captaincaveman*
> 
> Darlene, thank you for all the info and effort! A step by step for dummies would be great


iirc, there is a much more detailed post somewhere in this thread not terribly far back about which resistors to use , how to connect everything and some photos of the cable. I would look it up and post a link but I'm about to tear down my rig. She did make it sound doable to me and I'm a dummy for sure


----------



## Party3an

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Captaincaveman*
> 
> Darlene, thank you for all the info and effort! A step by step for dummies would be great


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> iirc, there is a much more detailed post somewhere in this thread not terribly far back about which resistors to use , how to connect everything and some photos of the cable. I would look it up and post a link but I'm about to tear down my rig. She did make it sound doable to me and I'm a dummy for sure


I think it was this link?

Check Darlene's post for details of the mod
http://www.overclock.net/t/1474470/ocn-aquaero-owners-club/50#post_21956203

Guys really. I don't have RadioShack here. I'm foreigner in Thailand. I don't read or speak Thai. But even I found how to get this items here by ordering per internet.

ITEM NAME ITEM DESCRIPTION QUANTITY PRICE AMOUNT
R560R12W 560ohm 1/2W 5% Carbon Film Resistor (pack of 10 pcs.) 4.80 Bht 4.80
R0033K14W 3.3kohm 1/4W 5% Carbon Film Resistor (pack of 10 pcs.) 3.20 Bht 3.20
BZX79-C5V1 BZX79 5.1V 500mW Zener Diodes 1.60 Bht 4.80
Subtotal: 12.80
Thai Post: 100.00
Total price: Bht. 112.80

Delivery 10 times more expensive then material.









1 dollar is around 33 Baht.

I understand why Darlene don't want to do this wires and sell them. Because you can't for sail 25 cent item for 5 dollars, with 50 dollars delivery costs and make everyone happy.

Best Regards


----------



## yesdoitmorelike

a dummie step by step sure would be appreciated by me. Darlene mentioned i need to get some pins along with the parts, even that i did not understand







i thought i could tell from the pic what goes in where and what to buy but the pins? So when some of us say dummies, we really means dummies


----------



## Party3an

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yesdoitmorelike*
> 
> a dummie step by step sure would be appreciated by me. Darlene mentioned i need to get some pins along with the parts, even that i did not understand
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> i thought i could tell from the pic what goes in where and what to buy but the pins? So when some of us say dummies, we really means dummies


What exactly you not understand?

Ok I will try to explain









Normal fan connector is 3 pin. and PWM fan connector is 4 pin. Pin is an metal contact that is inside connector holes.

PIN FUNCTION COLOR
1 Ground Black
2 +12 V Yellow
3 Sense (tach.) Signal Green ( on 3 pin fan is Tachometric Signal Yellow)
4 Control (PWM) Blue



For one D5 you will need.

1 X 5.1V Zener diode,
1 X 1/2 W 560 Ohm Resistor (sometimes is called 1/2W 560E Resistor),
1 X 1/4W 3.3K (3300 Ohm) Resistor



Pin removal manual.

This photo shows how it works very clearly. The little blue arrow shows the "tang" or "barb" that holds the pin in place in the connector housing. You gently press down the tang with the end of a paperclip while simultaneously pulling on the wire and the wire will slide out. Do it gently so you don't crush the tang! When you push the pin back into the housing, the tang will pop into place and hold the wire in place, a lot like a fish hook.



Best Regards


----------



## electro2u

Wow. Good guide.


----------



## Nichismo

Hey guys

Im not sure whats wrong, but one of my channels wont seem to work. They only spin when I power up the above fans (they are radiator fans), and im not sure if this is simply because the upper fans are moving the lower ones through the pull of the air, or if theres a voltage issue...

I was intending on purchasing a few of these ModMyToys multi-fan PCB ports.

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/14661/ele-987/3-Pin_Power_Distribution_PCB_3xWay_Block_MMT-PCB-3WAY.html?tl=c121s424b214

That one has a male 3 pin power input, and I was curious if these would work on the Aquaero if I connect it with a female-to-female cable to 1 of the 4 channels??

If so, would it perhaps be better to purchase one of those that have the 4 pin male molex power input instead? and use a female molex to female 3 pin cable to connect to the aquaero?

thanks


----------



## Captaincaveman

I'm using 4 of these:
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/20885/bus-352/NZXT_GRID_10_Channel_Multi_Fan_Hub_AC-GRID-10-M1.html
2 of them with about 16 120mm fans on one channel.
2 of them with 8 140mm and 1-2 120mm fans each on a separate channel.
The AQ6 has no problem with that, although I got no RPM signal.
When I tried to connect the ones with the 140mm fans to the same channel I got the over current warning and the fans wouldn't spin.
Bottom line, shouln't be a problem running 3-4 fans per channel as far as I can tell.
My AQ is watercooled so the fan controllers are ~ 30c even when running the fans at much lower voltage.


----------



## Nichismo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Captaincaveman*
> 
> I'm using 4 of these:
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/20885/bus-352/NZXT_GRID_10_Channel_Multi_Fan_Hub_AC-GRID-10-M1.html
> 2 of them with about 16 120mm fans on one channel.
> 2 of them with 8 140mm and 1-2 120mm fans each on a separate channel.
> The AQ6 has no problem with that, although I got no RPM signal.
> When I tried to connect the ones with the 140mm fans to the same channel I got the over current warning and the fans wouldn't spin.
> Bottom line, shouln't be a problem running 3-4 fans per channel as far as I can tell.
> My AQ is watercooled so the fan controllers are ~ 30c even when running the fans at much lower voltage.


I actually have one of those too and ive used it before, just not with my Aquaero.

But I want to have control over my fans as they have a pretty large spectrum of noise and performance. If I cant control them then its a no-go for me.

I dont understand why im suddenly having this problem, this never was a problem in the past. I have 9 fans and I use 3 per channel through a triple splitter. It seems to be the certain 3 fans in specific because i changed channels and the same fans still dont work

EDIT: Actually now I forget that im purchasing a new power supply, as mine currently is not enough power. I had to disable my SLI because my 2nd GPU wasnt recieving enough power. However according to GPU-Z its still recieving some from the PSU still


----------



## Nichismo

hmmm, after researching a little bit, I think its worth mentioning that im using Noiseblocker NB-eLoop B12. Some people seem to be reporting problems of a very similar nature to that of mine.... And this problem began when I recently changed fans....

Wow, and these were really expensive.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nichismo*
> 
> hmmm, after researching a little bit, I think its worth mentioning that im using Noiseblocker NB-eLoop B12. Some people seem to be reporting problems of a very similar nature to that of mine.... And this problem began when I recently changed fans....
> 
> Wow, and these were really expensive.


Are those fans in push or pull? Are they used directly in contact with the rad? Some people report the Nb eloop hit the rad in pull and this might be physically hindering the fans to spin? A quick solve would be to use a shroud or rubber pads or something to decouple a little bit he fans.


----------



## Nichismo

I still used the rubber inserts on both sides of the fans, but aside from those, they are directly mounted. The top ones however, are not. They are mounted on drop-in rad plate.

I have 6 in push and pull on my Airplex, mounted on the ceiling of my case. The ones on top have always worked fine, but the ones on the bottom have been sporadic. Sometimes 1-2 will suddenly stop spinning, or even just spin at a lower RPM than the others, and such. But once I hit a certain voltage on the top fans, the bottom ones instantly start spinning. Im not sure if its because of the air flow of the upper fans, but it seems rather quick and aggressive in their speed up to be from the above air flow.'

Im considering just removing the bottom 3 fans, and replacing them with the BlackSilentPro 1400rpm fans. and then using those 3 Eloops for the front and back intakes of my case, as I dont have any right now.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nichismo*
> 
> I still used the rubber inserts on both sides of the fans, but aside from those, they are directly mounted. The top ones however, are not. They are mounted on drop-in rad plate.
> 
> I have 6 in push and pull on my Airplex, mounted on the ceiling of my case. The ones on top have always worked fine, but the ones on the bottom have been sporadic. Sometimes 1-2 will suddenly stop spinning, or even just spin at a lower RPM than the others, and such. But once I hit a certain voltage on the top fans, the bottom ones instantly start spinning. Im not sure if its because of the air flow of the upper fans, but it seems rather quick and aggressive in their speed up to be from the above air flow.'
> 
> Im considering just removing the bottom 3 fans, and replacing them with the BlackSilentPro 1400rpm fans. and then using those 3 Eloops for the front and back intakes of my case, as I dont have any right now.


mmm.. Did you test them individually to see how they behave? Plug just one of the bottom ones to the Aq channel and see how it goes.


----------



## Captaincaveman

Are you sure you are not getting the over current warning?


----------



## Nichismo

yes im sure, it only 3 fans, and besides, im using the exact same 3 fans in the next channel and its fine.

Perhaps ill try each fan individually, but its gonna be a pain to get to plug each one after doing all my cable management.

I have been wanting new fans for a little while anyway. Im going to buy 3 today


----------



## Mega Man

i just bought and received one more 6xt for my s3 !

will be moving the screen farther from the pcb
should do a build log soon ( almost finished, all i need is the custom res and then to pipe it )


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> i just bought and received one more 6xt for my s3 !
> 
> *will be moving the screen farther from the pcb*
> should do a build log soon ( almost finished, all i need is the custom res and then to pipe it )


This ought to be interesting. I believe it was tried already in this thread without any success.

edit: Looks like it was @kpoeticg that gave it a go, but iirc was unable to pull it off. Here's one post discussing it with shoggy...
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> Just a reminder that what i'm trying to do is split the main pcb from the lcd by connecting them with a ribbon cable instead of plugging them right into each other
> 
> 
> 
> That does not really work since even a short cable can already bring up so much communication errors on the line that the display will not work any more. In the airplex GIGANT we also have to split the display and main controller and only use a shielded cable with about 20 cm. I have no idea which length you need but every centimeter in addition will raise the risk that it does not work anymore.
Click to expand...


----------



## josetortola

After reading this forum for so many time, I'm "new" here.

But I had same issues with this:
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nichismo*
> 
> I still used the rubber inserts on both sides of the fans, but aside from those, they are directly mounted. The top ones however, are not. They are mounted on drop-in rad plate.
> 
> I have 6 in push and pull on my Airplex, mounted on the ceiling of my case. The ones on top have always worked fine, but the ones on the bottom have been sporadic. Sometimes 1-2 will suddenly stop spinning, or even just spin at a lower RPM than the others, and such. But once I hit a certain voltage on the top fans, the bottom ones instantly start spinning. Im not sure if its because of the air flow of the upper fans, but it seems rather quick and aggressive in their speed up to be from the above air flow.'
> 
> Im considering just removing the bottom 3 fans, and replacing them with the BlackSilentPro 1400rpm fans. and then using those 3 Eloops for the front and back intakes of my case, as I dont have any right now.


In the official page of NB eLoops, their FAQs say that those fans are not the ones to be used in pull configurations because they make a loud noise. You need to use a shroud if you want to use them in pull.

Nothing to do with using them with Aquaero or other rehobus, just aerodinamics. I suposse that incorrect air flow through the fans makes them more difficult to be controled. I solved that using NB eLoops for push and NB Multiframe for pull, and both are working fine in my AQ6.


----------



## iBored

Noob question.
The D5 vario fan header with the tach signal, can I simply connect it to a AQ6 fan header for a readout?
Will still use the molex for power and speed dial for control.

If it's a yes, I'm probably doing something wrong. Cos there's no reading on my AQ6 on that fan header.
If it's a no, how do you guys connect your d5's then?


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nichismo*
> 
> I still used the rubber inserts on both sides of the fans, but aside from those, they are directly mounted. The top ones however, are not. They are mounted on drop-in rad plate.
> 
> I have 6 in push and pull on my Airplex, mounted on the ceiling of my case. The ones on top have always worked fine, but the ones on the bottom have been sporadic. Sometimes 1-2 will suddenly stop spinning, or even just spin at a lower RPM than the others, and such. But once I hit a certain voltage on the top fans, the bottom ones instantly start spinning. Im not sure if its because of the air flow of the upper fans, but it seems rather quick and aggressive in their speed up to be from the above air flow.'
> 
> Im considering just removing the bottom 3 fans, and replacing them with the BlackSilentPro 1400rpm fans. and then using those 3 Eloops for the front and back intakes of my case, as I dont have any right now.


Are you sure the fans actually stop spinning? or do they just stop reporting RPM's? Because I had that very problem with B12-3's. At anything under 7V they would just suddenly stop reporting any RPM at all or would report a crazy high number. There was nothing I could do to fix them and ended up sending them back and swapping them for B12-PS models. It was not very impressive for a 'premium' fan.
I also started using the Eloops in push and Multiframes or SP120's in pull.

There was someone who added some components to the wiring of the fans and got them to work better with RPM's at lower voltages but I'm not sure if I can find the thread.

Edit; Talked about here but not the thread I was thinking of.
http://www.overclock.net/t/1463913/issue-with-nb-eloop-b12-3-not-displaying-fan-rpm


----------



## VSG

Really? I have been using the eloops (B12-1. B12-2, B12-3, B12-4 and B12-P fans) for a quad rad test all this week without much of an issue even close to 5V. I did get these directly from NB if that matters.


----------



## Shoggy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iBored*
> 
> Noob question.
> The D5 vario fan header with the tach signal, can I simply connect it to a AQ6 fan header for a readout?


Should work this way if you connect the tacho signal to one of the four fan channels.


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Really? I have been using the eloops (B12-1. B12-2, B12-3, B12-4 and B12-P fans) for a quad rad test all this week without much of an issue even close to 5V. I did get these directly from NB if that matters.


Have a look at Martins test video of them, in particular the RPM counter at anything under 6V. The PWM models dont suffer from it because they always have 12V but the -3 and -2 that I had def did. I had 6 samples of each and they all suffered from it to slightly varying degrees.
His -4 seems unaffected, and that has been reported by others who use them too.

I made a couple videos for the place I bought them from showing the problem. At under 1200RPM the counter would just flat line. They gave me my money back and interestingly they didn't try to give me replacements and have since stopped stocking them.


----------



## VSG

Have you guys talked to NB about this? If not, I can talk to the guy I am in correspondence with about this. It's not trivial by any means, especially for the money charged and performance/noise they boast (rightfully so, but still). I will re-check my fans as well, but it was fine all the way and I did hit 5V with some of them too.


----------



## Kimir

Vive the PWM!








Glad I have all my -P and -PS, works wonder with AQ6 indeed (they are not powered by it, tho, power by the PSU via a cable splitter)


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Nichismo*
> 
> I still used the rubber inserts on both sides of the fans, but aside from those, they are directly mounted. The top ones however, are not. They are mounted on drop-in rad plate.
> 
> I have 6 in push and pull on my Airplex, mounted on the ceiling of my case. The ones on top have always worked fine, but the ones on the bottom have been sporadic. Sometimes 1-2 will suddenly stop spinning, or even just spin at a lower RPM than the others, and such. But once I hit a certain voltage on the top fans, the bottom ones instantly start spinning. Im not sure if its because of the air flow of the upper fans, but it seems rather quick and aggressive in their speed up to be from the above air flow.'
> 
> Im considering just removing the bottom 3 fans, and replacing them with the BlackSilentPro 1400rpm fans. and then using those 3 Eloops for the front and back intakes of my case, as I dont have any right now.
> 
> 
> 
> Are you sure the fans actually stop spinning? or do they just stop reporting RPM's? Because I had that very problem with B12-3's. At anything under 7V they would just suddenly stop reporting any RPM at all or would report a crazy high number. There was nothing I could do to fix them and ended up sending them back and swapping them for B12-PS models. It was not very impressive for a 'premium' fan.
> I also started using the Eloops in push and Multiframes or SP120's in pull.
> 
> There was someone who added some components to the wiring of the fans and got them to work better with RPM's at lower voltages but I'm not sure if I can find the thread.
> 
> Edit; Talked about here but not the thread I was thinking of.
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1463913/issue-with-nb-eloop-b12-3-not-displaying-fan-rpm
Click to expand...

When you had the issue with the fans not reporting RPM at lower speeds, was this with an Aquaero, or some other controller . . . .

I ask because the controllers that are positive rail referenced, most Lamptrons, lower the voltage by bringing the negative output more positive, closer to the +12V rail, as opposed to lowering the 12V down closer to ground.

It's like getting 7V by using the +5V and +12V pins of a molex.

The problem is that the counting circuitry looks for the yellow wire to come very close to actual ground, and when the black wire is above ground by a significant amount, as it is at low voltage on a positive rail referenced controller, it can't read any tach signal.

In that situation, it has nothing to do with the fan, and everything to do with the controller.

Darlene


----------



## VSG

In my case it was fine with both the Aquaero and an NZXT Sentry as well, the only things not matching advertized specs (that I could measure anyway) are sound (probably because of a different testing chamber/method) and max RPMs- the actual max RPMs were always about 5-10% lower for the higher speed eloops with both fan controllers even after 2 hours of run time.


----------



## iCrap

Hey guys i have an Aquero 4 USB and it WAS working fine with Aquasuite.. but now the PC won't detect it and aquasuite does nothing... I didn't change anything and it was working fine just 2 days ago.
Did it randomly die? any fixes? is this a known issue?


----------



## Ironsmack

Try a different USB port. Or cable perhaps.

Then try to uninstall and reinstall Aquasuite.

If that doesnt work - most likely you need to send the controller for warranty.


----------



## iCrap

tried all that


----------



## macforth

I have a watercooled system with an Aquaero 6 XT controlling all the rad fans, two MCP35X pumps and my case fans. It took me a while to get to know the Aquaero well, but entries in this thread were more than helpful.

Recently, I purchased an online UPS, and want to know whether the temperature of the UPS as reported in the accompanied software; Winpower, can be imported to the Aquaero. My goal is to quieten two server fans used to cool the UPS which spin at about 4000rpm and generate an unholy din. I have a temperature sensor that I can incorporate and bring that signal across to the PC, but my inquiry is just to save that extra wiring given there is obviously a temperature sensor in the UPS already..clearly seen in Winpower.

I am replacing the two three wired, 92mm server fans with two PWM 140mm fans, and will bring the wiring across to the PC to hook into the Aquaero. I will set the speed of the PWM fans according to the UPS temp in a similar way as all the other fans and pumps are setup.

It would just simplify matters if I could import the Winpower reported UPS temp rather than place a temperature sensor in the UPS which would require two more wires to be brought across to the Aquaero.

Any suggestions?


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> When you had the issue with the fans not reporting RPM at lower speeds, was this with an Aquaero, or some other controller . . . .
> 
> I ask because the controllers that are positive rail referenced, most Lamptrons, lower the voltage by bringing the negative output more positive, closer to the +12V rail, as opposed to lowering the 12V down closer to ground.
> 
> It's like getting 7V by using the +5V and +12V pins of a molex.
> 
> The problem is that the counting circuitry looks for the yellow wire to come very close to actual ground, and when the black wire is above ground by a significant amount, as it is at low voltage on a positive rail referenced controller, it can't read any tach signal.
> 
> In that situation, it has nothing to do with the fan, and everything to do with the controller.
> 
> Darlene


It happened with both my Aquaero 5 and Lamptron CW611. I first noticed it with the Aquaero when I put them in the system but then most of my testing later was done with the 611. I hadn't heard that about the 611 and it frankly sounds awful but then again it certainly hasn't affected any of my other fans. Only the Eloop B12-3's.

If it had only been happening with one controller I would have happily swapped it out because I really wanted the Eloops to be good rad fans but the DC versions were decidedly underwhelming for several reasons.

Martin was using a high quality variable DC power supply for his fan testing and it is evident there so how does that apply?

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Have you guys talked to NB about this? If not, I can talk to the guy I am in correspondence with about this. It's not trivial by any means, especially for the money charged and performance/noise they boast (rightfully so, but still). I will re-check my fans as well, but it was fine all the way and I did hit 5V with some of them too.


Yes I did contact them and send them the videos and links to threads discussing it. I can't remember what the upshot of what it all was now. I think I maybe just gave up when the store took em back and gave me the money back.

Edit:
I found the emails with Black Noise and it seems after I sent them all the info they asked for they just never got back to me.


----------



## VSG

I just tried it out with the B12-3 and B12-4 samples I have here and it was all groovy all the way down to fans shutting down. I am beginning to wonder if there was a big batch with this issue? As far as I know all of mine were made and sent 3 weeks ago straight from NB.


----------



## Jakusonfire

Well I don't know maybe they investigated and fixed it? My Eloops were from some of the first.

There was a guy who fixed them with some resistors or pullups so to me that had to mean it was a problem with the fans. For an expensive fan I would have expected all that type of thing to be well and truly sorted before they go to market. That seems to be less and less true though these days.

If they have been changed it is a bit of a shame because I would probably give them another go but can't now because the retailer doesn't stock them any more.

Edit: Also, when are we gonna see this testing we keep hearing about Geggeg? I'm looking forward to it.

Edit 2 : Found the thread I was thinking of. It was a local! Lots of detail in it about getting them to work and the problem.
http://forums.overclockers.com.au/showthread.php?t=1130994


----------



## VSG

Could be, and that also means the issue was not with the Aquaero, the Lamptrons or any other DC source.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> When you had the issue with the fans not reporting RPM at lower speeds, was this with an Aquaero, or some other controller . . . .
> 
> I ask because the controllers that are positive rail referenced, most Lamptrons, lower the voltage by bringing the negative output more positive, closer to the +12V rail, as opposed to lowering the 12V down closer to ground.
> 
> It's like getting 7V by using the +5V and +12V pins of a molex.
> 
> The problem is that the counting circuitry looks for the yellow wire to come very close to actual ground, and when the black wire is above ground by a significant amount, as it is at low voltage on a positive rail referenced controller, it can't read any tach signal.
> 
> In that situation, it has nothing to do with the fan, and everything to do with the controller.
> 
> Darlene
> 
> 
> 
> It happened with both my Aquaero 5 and Lamptron CW611. I first noticed it with the Aquaero when I put them in the system but then most of my testing later was done with the 611. I hadn't heard that about the 611 and it frankly sounds awful but then again it certainly hasn't affected any of my other fans. Only the Eloop B12-3's.
> 
> If it had only been happening with one controller I would have happily swapped it out because I really wanted the Eloops to be good rad fans but the DC versions were decidedly underwhelming for several reasons.
> 
> Martin was using a high quality variable DC power supply for his fan testing and it is evident there so how does that apply?
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Have you guys talked to NB about this? If not, I can talk to the guy I am in correspondence with about this. It's not trivial by any means, especially for the money charged and performance/noise they boast (rightfully so, but still). I will re-check my fans as well, but it was fine all the way and I did hit 5V with some of them too.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Yes I did contact them and send them the videos and links to threads discussing it. I can't remember what the upshot of what it all was now. I think I maybe just gave up when the store took em back and gave me the money back.
> 
> Edit:
> I found the emails with Black Noise and it seems after I sent them all the info they asked for they just never got back to me.
Click to expand...

I have not looked at the A5 regarding how it varies the DC output for voltage controlled devices . . . . I do not know if it's positive or negative rail referenced . . . . Calling Shoggy

I have looked at the 611, extensively, as I have a couple of them. Their outputs are positive rail referenced.

One thing I did note with the 611, and mentioned in the 611 thread was that using it to monitor RPM of a PWM D5 pump setup, being controlled by one of my controllers, was that if I didn't set the output of the 611 above 28%, it wouldn't read the RPM, but as soon as I bumped up the output 1 more increment to 32% or above, it would read perfectly fine. . . . and this was with just a tach wire connected . . not actually powering anything.

I'm not saying that the issue had to be controller related, but I can tell you conclusively that with some controllers, it can be.

Depending on the switching components in the fan itself, there's room for that aspect to have additional effect as well, so that you loose the tach switching at a voltage above which the fan stops running.

Keep in mind that the tach "signal" from a fan is merely the yellow wire being connected to the black wire twice per revolution and that there can be electrical voltage drop or the magnetic lines of force need to be cut at a minimum velocity for some Hall effect devices to function reliably. . . . or there needs to be a minimum voltage to the Hall effect device for it to switch.

Darlene


----------



## Shoggy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ironsmack*
> 
> If that doesnt work - most likely you need to send the controller for warranty.


He is talking about an aquaero 4. That will be out of warranty for sure









If it also does not work with another PC it is very likely that the USB interface or the specific part of the CPU is damaged which we can not repair anyway.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> I have not looked at the A5 regarding how it varies the DC output for voltage controlled devices . . . . I do not know if it's positive or negative rail referenced . . . . Calling Shoggy


It is high-side controlled. It is like you would use a simple potentiometer.


----------



## IT Diva

Thanks for such a quick reply . . . .
















Darlene


----------



## iCrap

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> He is talking about an aquaero 4. That will be out of warranty for sure
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If it also does not work with another PC it is very likely that the USB interface or the specific part of the CPU is damaged which we can not repair anyway.
> It is high-side controlled. It is like you would use a simple potentiometer.


I haven't tried on another PC yet but is it possible it just randomly died? I mean i was using it fine the day before and now... it just won't work. the PC shows it as "needs troubleshooting".
I'll try another PC and see what happens....
Maybe I should upgrade to a new aquero lol


----------



## Shoggy

Wel, if we assume the device is OK and there is a problem with Windows you could try the following to force the system to detect and rewrite configuration details about the device completely new. Please download this little freeware tool:

http://www.nirsoft.net/utils/usbdeview.zip (32bit)

http://www.nirsoft.net/utils/usbdeview-x64.zip (64bit)

When you run the program it will show you all USB devices that are currently attached and have been attached in the past. There is a column called VendorID. Click on its name to sort the list and look for devices with the ID "0c70". This is the ID for our devices. Delete all entries with this ID by selecting them and clicking on the trash can icon in the upper left corner. Just confirm the request to delete the entry.

Afterwards resart the PC and check the program again. If there are no new entries for "0c70" again, than it means the aquaero has not been detected by the system and there seems to be something seriously wrong with the system or the aquaero is damaged. If you see entries again there is a good chance that it might work now.

If that does not help you could try to connect the device to another PC to make sure that there is no strange compatibility or configuration problem with your current system.


----------



## iCrap

OK, so i did that. This is what I am getting after rebooting. It's there but aquasuite still wont do anything
Already tried to reinstall aquasuite but that didn't do anything.



EDIT: I got it to work! but for how long i do not know....

I clicked Disable + Enable device and then it came up in aquasuite.


----------



## BirdofPrey

Hey here's a crazy question from a prospective buyer. I know the Aquaero can turn your computer OFF, but can it also turn your computer ON?
Also, what's the deal with poweradjust 3 heatsinks, says they can't be used with the faceplate?

On a side note I know I can use a 5LT for more fan channels, but I'd pay money for a 2 channel device that fits the same space as a poweradjust and has a couple PWM channels.


----------



## Jakusonfire

The poweradjust heatsink uses the same mount holes that the bezel uses only from the other side.


----------



## BirdofPrey

Well that doesn't sound like anything that can't be fixed with longer screws.
I thought maybe there was an issue with dimensions (eg. too wide or too tall to fit in the space)


----------



## CaliLife17

So I am starting a Build with 5 Rads, (3x 480 GTX Nemesis, 1x 360, 1x240). Each 480 will be on its own channel on my AQ6XT (8-fans on Swiftech 8-way). For the 4th channel, I will need to be doing 10 fans on the channel. I will be using Corsair SP120 PWM Fans. I was going to do this idea, let me know if it would work.

For the 10 fans (360 P/P + 240 P/P) I was going to use the Swifttech 8-way splitter Molex (SIDE NOTE: Any difference between Molex and SATA powered versions? Which one is better?)

On 2 of the channels (not using Red lead channel) i was going to use a 2-way PWM splitter, Something Like This to give me a total of 10 fans. Probably put all 4 fans of the 240 on the Splitters. (What company makes best cable version of this?)

Would that overload either the 8-way splitter, or the AQ6XT. Reading Darlene's previous posts about the SP120 PWM versions and their funky way of doing PWM, it seems 10 fans is the most I would want to do.

Trying to avoid buying anther AQ6 just for 1 extra channel, so hoping i can get it all done on one.

THANKS!


----------



## VSG

Do you know if your AQ6 is the newer version which can handle the irregular SP120 PWM implementation better? There are also the CPU fan headers for you to use as a last resort.


----------



## CaliLife17

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Do you know if your AQ6 is the newer version which can handle the irregular SP120 PWM implementation better? There are also the CPU fan headers for you to use as a last resort.


Yes, I have verified the version of AQ6XT I have is the newer version that works with the SP120. I am actually using it right now in my 900D with 2 channels plugged into 8-way splitters with 8 fans each. (2x480 in Push/Pull)

There is always the option of the Mobo Headers, but really trying to keep everything on AQ6 for easy use and for a cleaner look. That is why i was hoping i can use those splittlers.

I was not able to find a true native 10-way splitter, so this was my next option.


----------



## VSG

You should be good to go, I had hooked up 16 SP120 PWM fans to one channel (but using Darlene's Double D) and it was fine.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CaliLife17*
> 
> So I am starting a Build with 5 Rads, (3x 480 GTX Nemesis, 1x 360, 1x240). Each 480 will be on its own channel on my AQ6XT (8-fans on Swiftech 8-way). For the 4th channel, I will need to be doing 10 fans on the channel. I will be using Corsair SP120 PWM Fans. I was going to do this idea, let me know if it would work.
> 
> For the 10 fans (360 P/P + 240 P/P) I was going to use the Swifttech 8-way splitter Molex (SIDE NOTE: Any difference between Molex and SATA powered versions? Which one is better?)
> 
> On 2 of the channels (not using Red lead channel) i was going to use a 2-way PWM splitter, Something Like This to give me a total of 10 fans. Probably put all 4 fans of the 240 on the Splitters. (What company makes best cable version of this?)
> 
> Would that overload either the 8-way splitter, or the AQ6XT. Reading Darlene's previous posts about the SP120 PWM versions and their funky way of doing PWM, it seems 10 fans is the most I would want to do.
> 
> Trying to avoid buying anther AQ6 just for 1 extra channel, so hoping i can get it all done on one.
> 
> THANKS!


As long as it's a new Aquaero, you should just make it on the 10 fans.

You may not get them to slow down quite as slow as the other channels with less fans, but it should still be acceptable.

The sata or molex splitters are no different electrically, so go with what is easier or what's in stock when you need to buy them.

The Akasa splitter cables with a molex would probably be the easiest . . . get a 4 way for your 240 and you'll have one space open on the 8 way after the other 6 for the 360

Darlene


----------



## CaliLife17

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> As long as it's a new Aquaero, you should just make it on the 10 fans.
> 
> You may not get them to slow down quite as slow as the other channels with less fans, but it should still be acceptable.
> 
> The sata or molex splitters are no different electrically, so go with what is easier or what's in stock when you need to buy them.
> 
> The Akasa splitter cables with a molex would probably be the easiest . . . get a 4 way for your 240 and you'll have one space open on the 8 way after the other 6 for the 360
> 
> Darlene


Thanks Darlene! So even loading 4 fans on 1 header on the 8-way splitter would be okay? I was thinking 2 fans across 2 headers would balance the load better and maybe give me more response, but I have no logical proof of this, just my thought process.

Now if you would start making your DD dapters for sale, I could send you money


----------



## Shoggy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iCrap*
> 
> EDIT: I got it to work! but for how long i do not know....
> 
> I clicked Disable + Enable device and then it came up in aquasuite.


This sounds A LOT like that typical problems that almost every newer mainboard with Intel chipset has. They do not support the old USB 1.1 standard in a correct way and use a way too high report rate which the aquaero 4 can not handle and also does not need to handle since it clearly violates the official USB specifications. You could update your aquaero to the OS 2.04 and firmware 4.23a. The necessary files can be download here. To perform the update you will need the aquasuite 4.72 and have to make sure that your aquaero currently runs OS version 2.03. You can check that in the "display and hardware" tab of the aquasuite.

Please note that the update like any other firmware update bears the small risk that something could go wrong. In this case the device will be dead and must be returned so that we can reprogram the CPU directly. In this case we will charge at least for the shipping costs back to you.

To update the device go to aquaero in the menu bar and click flash firmware. A file selection box will open up where you select the file "aquaero4_os_update_203_204.afd4". The software will ask you to confirm the update before it starts. When the device has been updated, shut down the PC (must be turned off) and start it again. The aquaero will reprogram itself and the next thing in the display should be that it asks for the firmware. Once again start the aquasuite, go to the flash firmware entry and this time select "aquaero4_firmware_423a_os204.afd4". When this file has been flashed shut down the PC again. Other than before press and hold the set button before you switch on the PC again. This will perform a reset of the device. It will be confirmed in the display so you can release the button afterwards.

Well, I can not promise it but this should help to get a much better recognition of the device. For newer boards with Intel Chipset it will not work anymore at all. In this case a PCI(e) USB controller card could help.

For all others reading this and start to panic: I am talking about an aquaero 4. The mentioned problem has nothing to do with the aquaero 5 or 6!

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BirdofPrey*
> 
> Hey here's a crazy question from a prospective buyer. I know the Aquaero can turn your computer OFF, but can it also turn your computer ON?


Yes, of course but that only works if your mainboard supports the wake-up-on-keyboard in a correct manner.


----------



## BirdofPrey

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> Yes, of course but that only works if your mainboard supports the wake-up-on-keyboard in a correct manner.


Was hoping maybe it could send the power on signal through http://shop.aquacomputer.de/product_info.php?products_id=1636


----------



## Shoggy

That will not work. With this adapter you can only switch off the PC. An alternative to the USB keyboard command is to connect the power button of the PC parallel to the relay of the aquaero. This way the aquaero can also "press" the button.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CaliLife17*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> As long as it's a new Aquaero, you should just make it on the 10 fans.
> 
> You may not get them to slow down quite as slow as the other channels with less fans, but it should still be acceptable.
> 
> The sata or molex splitters are no different electrically, so go with what is easier or what's in stock when you need to buy them.
> 
> The Akasa splitter cables with a molex would probably be the easiest . . . get a 4 way for your 240 and you'll have one space open on the 8 way after the other 6 for the 360
> 
> Darlene
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks Darlene! *So even loading 4 fans on 1 header on the 8-way splitter would be okay?* I was thinking 2 fans across 2 headers would balance the load better and maybe give me more response, but I have no logical proof of this, just my thought process.
> 
> Now if you would start making your DD dapters for sale, I could send you money
Click to expand...

It's OK because all the fans PWM and power connections from both the splitter all end up in parallel going back to the PWM controller (power to the Molexs, anyway, so there's not really anything to split the loads across.

With a 4 way splitter on one position of the 8 way, it still all goes back to the same source and only adds 1 more Molex to find a place to plug in.

If you were dealing with something that had serious current levels involved, it might be a different story with regards to how much current the traces could carry, but not the few milliamps of a bunch of PWM fans.

Darlene


----------



## iBored

Help! I dished out my old AP15s and connected them to header 3 and 4 to test, but the fans don't spin up.
Connected them to headers 1 and 2 and they work.
Minimum voltage set on all headers at 12V.

Thanks in advance!

EDIT: I should mention, I tested the headers when I first received my AQ6, all 4 headers were working.

EDIT (AGAIN): Updated firmware now it works.









Edit with new question: Is it possible and how do I connect a D5 aquabus pump and an Aqualis XT both with aquabus connectors on a AQ6?


----------



## chaostheoryPCL

Does A5LT have the ability to control D5 pump with PWM connector? On the first page it says the newer A6 has the problem with it, so i wonder about older version...


----------



## VSG

It should be no different, the issue is not necessarily with the Aquaero but rather the Laing PWM implementation depending on your definition of what a standard implementation is.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chaostheoryPCL*
> 
> Does A5LT have the ability to control D5 pump with PWM connector? On the first page it says the newer A6 has the problem with it, so i wonder about older version...


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> It should be no different, the issue is not necessarily with the Aquaero but rather the Laing PWM implementation depending on your definition of what a standard implementation is.


Actually not correct. The 5lt I have is fully capable of controlling the d5 pwm from 800 rpm to 4800 rpm. However, as Shoggy mentioned a few weeks ago there is a 50% chance the 5lt would not control it. Apparently there are several different versions of the 5lt.


----------



## VSG

So some versions of the 5 have a pull-up on it? That's news to me. I wish AquaC named each variation at 5.1, 5.2 etc but I can see how that won't be helpful for sales.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> So some versions of the 5 have a pull-up on it? That's news to me. I wish AquaC named each variation at 5.1, 5.2 etc but I can see how that won't be helpful for sales.


Yeah me too. Here is the original post:

http://www.overclock.net/t/1474470/ocn-aquaero-owners-club/2050#post_22859656

Darlene mention she was going to get one of the 5lt to check on this. But it definitely have a pull up in my unit since the d5 pwm work just fine. I have a second 5lt I didn't test as yet about the d5 pwm.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Reading Shoggy's reply, the one a few after the one you linked above, he says there were different revisions of the 5LT but none of them had a "pull up" or any changes made to the PWM channel.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Thks mate. I just got the Aq 5 LT. Bought this one for a second PC and I did test the pwm functionality with the d5. I can attest that I can control my d5 pwm on the full range from 800 rpm to ~4800 without problems. You mention there is a 50/50 chance of been able to control it or not. Can you clarify to me why? There is actually two versions of the 5 lt or something like that?
> 
> 
> 
> It is what I have been told by our electronic technician. It seems to have something to do with the signal levels - no idea...
> 
> *There exist several different revisions of the aquaero 5 boards but none of them had ever changes on the PWM part of the 4th fan channel.*
Click to expand...

It sounds like more of a hit or miss whether it will work correctly or not and that Gabrielzm must have just gotten lucky.


----------



## Nikonthenet

Hi folks,

I'm currently finishing my build and have the 5LT to control an Aquastream, 4x PWM Rad fans and 2x case fans on a separate channel, a range of sensors, the RGB Led, and I'll be using one of the PWM relays to control the brightness of a LED strip. I think that all should be within reasonable heat as I reduce the fan speeds and led brightness? -with the ally air cooler attached and located next to a 140 case fan. I'm pretty sure I have most everything figured out and all the right bits good to go...just about!

Question:
The one hole in my knowledge is with the 'Power Connect' optional extra, the description states its used to turn off the computer...? Am I right in thinking I don't need this if the 5LT is connected via the usb(EDIT: and the Aquastream via the Aquabus)? If i got this wrong, would someone mind explaining the power connect to me. I want the PC to turn off if the pump/RPM/flow stops.

I'm also currently digging through the 200+ pages here to see what else I can learn. Thanks for any help you can offer and I should have pics of my build soon


----------



## electro2u

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nikonthenet*
> 
> Hi folks,
> 
> I'm currently finishing my build and have the 5LT to control an Aquastream, 4x PWM Rad fans and 2x case fans on a separate channel, a range of sensors, the RGB Led, and I'll be using one of the PWM relays to control the brightness of a LED strip. I think that all should be within reasonable heat as I reduce the fan speeds and led brightness? -with the ally air cooler attached and located next to a 140 case fan. I'm pretty sure I have most everything figured out and all the right bits good to go...just about!
> 
> Question:
> The one hole in my knowledge is with the 'Power Connect' optional extra, the description states its used to turn off the computer...? Am I right in thinking I don't need this if the 5LT is connected via the usb(EDIT: and the Aquastream via the Aquabus)? If i got this wrong, would someone mind explaining the power connect to me. I want the PC to turn off if the pump/RPM/flow stops.
> 
> I'm also currently digging through the 200+ pages here to see what else I can learn. Thanks for any help you can offer and I should have pics of my build soon


I would recommend adding the optional heatsink for the 5LT because you are using PWM fans, turning the PWM fans down (as I understand it) causes heat to build up in the VRMs, which get quite hot anyway. As I read your post again, perhaps you were already getting the heatsink.

As far as the Power Connect is concerned, I purchased one and then ended up not using it because the USB connection allows the unit to power down the computer based on alarm settings such as those you mentioned wanting. The USB connection isn't as fast as the power connect would be, but splicing in the 24-pin add on is a bit of a chore. As it is, the power down alarm action via the USB connection of the Aquaero shuts my computer down plenty fast enough... and then if it doesn't (I once forgot to connect my pump to power and used my machine in Windows for a few minutes) your overtemperature protection on either GPU or CPU should have you covered.


----------



## Nikonthenet

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> I would recommend adding the optional heatsink for the 5LT because you are using PWM fans, turning the PWM fans down (as I understand it) causes heat to build up in the VRMs, which get quite hot anyway. As I read your post again, perhaps you were already getting the heatsink.
> 
> As far as the Power Connect is concerned, I purchased one and then ended up not using it because the USB connection allows the unit to power down the computer based on alarm settings such as those you mentioned wanting. The USB connection isn't as fast as the power connect would be, but splicing in the 24-pin add on is a bit of a chore. As it is, the power down alarm action via the USB connection of the Aquaero shuts my computer down plenty fast enough... and then if it doesn't (I once forgot to connect my pump to power and used my machine in Windows for a few minutes) your overtemperature protection on either GPU or CPU should have you covered.


I'm on the right track then! Thanks for clearing that up electro2u!


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> I would recommend adding the optional heatsink for the 5LT because you are using PWM fans, turning the PWM fans down (as I understand it) causes heat to build up in the VRMs, which get quite hot anyway. As I read your post again, perhaps you were already getting the heatsink.
> 
> As far as the Power Connect is concerned, I purchased one and then ended up not using it because the USB connection allows the unit to power down the computer based on alarm settings such as those you mentioned wanting. The USB connection isn't as fast as the power connect would be, but splicing in the 24-pin add on is a bit of a chore. As it is, the power down alarm action via the USB connection of the Aquaero shuts my computer down plenty fast enough... and then if it doesn't (I once forgot to connect my pump to power and used my machine in Windows for a few minutes) your overtemperature protection on either GPU or CPU should have you covered.


Why would PWM fans generate heat in the VRM? PWM fans always run at 12 v so no messing around with voltage regulation. Volt controlled fans do generate heat since if you down from 12 v to 7 v the difference is transformed in heat as far as I understand.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Reading Shoggy's reply, the one a few after the one you linked above, he says there were different revisions of the 5LT but none of them had a "pull up" or any changes made to the PWM channel.
> 
> It sounds like more of a hit or miss whether it will work correctly or not and that Gabrielzm must have just gotten lucky.


Well we don't known as yet whether or not the AQ 5lt have a pull up do we mate? Shoggy never told us either they have or not, he only mention will be a 50% chance of been able to control it or not and that have something to do with "signal levels". I would say It most likely have since I (and others report too on AQ 5 pro) are able to control the d5 PWM something that would not be possible if there is no pull up there as far as I understand, but of course, I might be wrong... Someone have to dig in to this to clarify ( @IT Diva







). Hell, I was able to control two d5 pwm on the same channel using a PWM split (with less range on the rpm control however).


----------



## VSG

The power phases/MOSFETs (unless I totally got the parts wrong) can get toasty depending on how much they can handle. Same with how the PWM DDCs can get hot also.


----------



## electro2u

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Why would PWM fans generate heat in the VRM? PWM fans always run at 12 v so no messing around with voltage regulation. Volt controlled fans do generate heat since if you down from 12 v to 7 v the difference is transformed in heat as far as I understand.


I... don't know where I got that idea from.







It never really made any sense to me. I remember reading somewhere about previous versions of the aquaero (like the 5 LT) getting really hot when fans were set to low speed.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> I... don't know where I got that idea from.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It never really made any sense to me. I remember reading somewhere about previous versions of the aquaero (like the 5 LT) getting really hot when fans were set to low speed.


They definitely do but on voltage regulated fans not PWM. PWM generate comparatively low heat on the controller compared to voltage regulated fans. I agree the heatsink is a good idea. I measure 62 C on the vrm area and the heatsink of the AQ5 was very hot to touch with 16 voltage regulated fans at low speed (4.2 v) on the 4 channels.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> The power phases/MOSFETs (unless I totally got the parts wrong) can get toasty depending on how much they can handle. Same with how the PWM DDCs can get hot also.


Yes on voltage regulated fans not pwm. PWM generate a lot less heat since 12 v is kept constant. ddc pump generate heat (as do d5) due to mechanical function not due to PWM control as far as I understand.


----------



## Shoggy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iBored*
> 
> Is it possible and how do I connect a D5 aquabus pump and an Aqualis XT both with aquabus connectors on a AQ6?


You will need a y-cable for the aquabus. Both pumps must be connected to the aquabus highspeed port.

About that PWM thing from the last few posts. It does not matter if these fans are PWM fans because when connected to a 3-pin fan header they will work like any other regular 3-pin fan. Due to the missing PWM signal they will (or at least they should according to Intels PWM specifications) run at full speed and therefore can be adjusted by the voltage. The aquaero 5 LT has only one fan port that can use PWM.


----------



## Captaincaveman

Today I got the aquabus cable, so I disconnected the flow meter from the mobo usb, and connected it to the aquaero using the cable.
I can see the temperature sensor of the flow meter under sensors in aquasuite, but not the flow meter itself. what am I missing here?


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Captaincaveman*
> 
> Today I got the aquabus cable, so I disconnected the flow meter from the mobo usb, and connected it to the aquaero using the cable.
> I can see the temperature sensor of the flow meter under sensors in aquasuite, but not the flow meter itself. what am I missing here?


A screenshot? and what is showing under "currently connected aquabus devices"?

a power cycling of the whole system often helps with aquabus issues. I have had aquabus devices not detected lots of times but it always sorts itself out. Though, I usually configure everything with USB and aquabus connected and then just remove the USB


----------



## Captaincaveman

I've actually managed to find it, I think.
It called itself flow meter 11.
The thing is the reading is now a lot lower than it was when the meter was connected via usb. ~95-100 l/h instead of 160-170 l/h.


----------



## electro2u

Needs calibrating I suppose?


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Captaincaveman*
> 
> I've actually managed to find it, I think.
> It called itself flow meter 11.
> The thing is the reading is now a lot lower than it was when the meter was connected via usb. ~95-100 l/h instead of 160-170 l/h.


You have the Aquacomputer high flow USB version of the flow meter correct? Two things to notice. One it adds quite a bit of restriction to the loop:

http://www.overclock.net/t/1501978/ocn-community-water-cooling-test-thread/210

Second, when connected via Aquabus if memory serves, you can play with the calibration on a tab of the device in Aquasuite. The default number should be 169 but that value can be changed to better represent the tube you are using:

http://martinsliquidlab.org/2012/01/21/aquacomputer-water-high-flow-sensor-meter/

http://www.xtremerigs.net/reviews/accessories/aquacomputer-mps-400-flow-sensor/

hope it helps

-EDIT- Oops...the second link is for the MPS 400 sorry about that...


----------



## Captaincaveman

Thanks! +rep


----------



## Gabrielzm

Here is where to find the calibration. I have a non-usb version via aquabus in my pc right now. the default value is 169. To change it you have to select user defined.










Edit- what fittings/tube are you using?


----------



## Captaincaveman

BP compression fittings ID 3/8" OD 1/2". I have no idea what the value should be, any idea?


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Captaincaveman*
> 
> BP compression fittings ID 3/8" OD 1/2". I have no idea what the value should be, any idea?


Martin discuss that on the last page of his review I linked above. Seems 158 would be a good choice in your case even though your fittings are 9.53 mm ID and not 10-11 as he mentions.


----------



## Shoggy

The highflow USB sensor can not be configured. Its impulse value is internally fixed to 169 and it does not matter what you set in the aquaero menu - it will be ignored since there is no signal at all that the aquaero could count and convert. It already gets the final flow value from the sensor.

You should connect the sensor via USB too and check which value it shows there. Almost impossible that these values are different.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> The highflow USB sensor can not be configured. Its impulse value is internally fixed to 169 and it does not matter what you set in the aquaero menu - it will be ignored since there is no signal at all that the aquaero could count and convert. It already gets the final flow value from the sensor.
> 
> You should connect the sensor via USB too and check which value it shows there. Almost impossible that these values are different.


My bad then. I have both the USB and non-usb version of the flow meter and currently the non-usb connected via aquabus it is under use. I was not sure if the usb version when connected via aquabus would allow the change in the impulse values or not. Sorry @Captaincaveman...


----------



## Shoggy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> and currently the non-usb connected via aquabus












What have you done there? This is not possible.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What have you done there? This is not possible.


? Now I am confused. What you didn't understand? I have this unit:

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/13694/bus-270/Aquacomputer_G14_Flow_Meter_Sensor_Block_-_Aquaero_Series_Poweradjust_Fan-O-Matic_Pro_Alphacool_Heatmaster_53068.html?id=TBfk6xYS&mv_pc=1639

connected to the Aquaero 5 lt via Aquabus. How that can not be possible if is meant to be that way?

The other unit (usb) is off the pc and not on the loop or under use whatsoever.


----------



## VSG

That hooks up to the Flow or High headers on the Aquaero as far as I know. I think he thought you had connected it to the motherboard via USB.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> That hooks up to the Flow or High headers on the Aquaero as far as I know. I think he thought you had connected it to the motherboard via USB.


Right, it is connected to the "flow" header on the Aq 5 lt using this cable:

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/14276/bus-287/Aquacomputer_Aquaero_Flow_Sensor_Connection_Cable_53027.html?tl=g30c229s2257&id=TBfk6xYS&mv_pc=2520

my bad calling Aquabus. I guess the fever is getting the best of me. Should be off to bed to get some rest.


----------



## Shoggy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> That hooks up to the Flow or High headers on the Aquaero as far as I know. I think he thought you had connected it to the motherboard via USB.


This one can be only connected to the dedicated flow port or one fan channel (when configured). There is no way to connect it to the aquabus.

Anyway - he already said he got the name wrong.


----------



## Captaincaveman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> You should connect the sensor via USB too and check which value it shows there. Almost impossible that these values are different.


I'm 10000000% sure it showed a different value. I even have a screenshot of it, I changed nothing in the loop order or connections. I did however add a little water to the res, maybe 2cm higher.


----------



## Shoggy

As said, just connect USB too and compare the value.


----------



## LostParticle

Hi

Just a quick question, before opening up my computer.

I've downloaded and installed the latest Aquasuite from the site. I already had .NET Framework 4.5.1 and I also got Visual C++ 2010 x64 Redistributable - 10.0.40219.

In Aquasuite I cannot see any of my fans. I have the chassis' fans only connected on my Aquaero 5LT. Only the settings button appears and the Data Log and OverView pages.

Any suggestions?

I will open the computer again tomorrow or the day after, to install my new sound card, so I will check everything again then. My chassis' fans work normally now. I need to say that for a period of approx. two weeks I did not have the Aquasuite installed, because I was testing my system. Yesterday when I finished, I have reinstalled (clean) Windows 7. Today when I went to install the Aquasuite, this happened.

Thank you.


----------



## electro2u

@LostParticle
Did you connect the USB cable from the Aquaero to the motherboard? Is the Aquaero being recognized as a USB device in Windows device manager?


----------



## Shoggy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LostParticle*
> 
> Only the settings button appears and the Data Log and OverView pages.


There must be third tab called aquaero. If it is not there it means your problem starts at a lower level: the PC does not recognize your aquaero. Check the USB cable and especially that you plugged it in the right way on both sides.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Besides checking USB connection also don't forget to plug the molex on the Aquaero.


----------



## Shoggy

Right, but not directly necessary to be able to see the aquaero in the software. The power from USB is enough for that.


----------



## LostParticle

Hi, thank you all for your replies









Tomorrow, most probably, I will get my new soundcard so I will open the computer again and check everything. Right now, and all these days, my chassis' fans work normally. My CPU cooler is managed from my motherboard. I'll let you know what happened, thank you


----------



## electro2u

Hey Shoggy! Are these spiffy aquainlet pro and xt reservoirs what you were excited about a bit ago? They look new. They are small right? 50mm diameter is so much easier for me to deal with. I'm strongly considering purchasing one (largely because of the excellent support you provide). Will I be able to use it with my aquacomputer d5? Slightly confused on the compatibility because the pictures I've seen so far all use eihem pumps. Sorry for off topic.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> Hey Shoggy! Are these spiffy aquainlet pro and xt reservoirs what you were excited about a bit ago? They look new. They are small right? 50mm diameter is so much easier for me to deal with. I'm strongly considering purchasing one (largely because of the excellent support you provide). Will I be able to use it with my aquacomputer d5? Slightly confused on the compatibility because the pictures I've seen so far all use eihem pumps. Sorry for off topic.


For the D5 I think you will need this one or one of its variants (fill level sensor, nano coating, etc):

http://shop.aquacomputer.de/product_info.php?products_id=3190
http://shop.aquacomputer.de/product_info.php?products_id=3192

I have the Aqualis XT 150 of the same petit reservoirs family (stand alone) and the build quality is amazing:

http://shop.aquacomputer.de/product_info.php?products_id=3053


----------



## Mega Man

how about the IR extender we have been waiting extremely patiently for !

AC keeps the connector, but never releases it, its like they do this to me


----------



## electro2u

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> For the D5 I think you will need this one or one of its variants (fill level sensor, nano coating, etc):
> 
> http://shop.aquacomputer.de/product_info.php?products_id=3190
> http://shop.aquacomputer.de/product_info.php?products_id=3192
> 
> I have the Aqualis XT 150 of the same petit reservoirs family (stand alone) and the build quality is amazing:
> 
> http://shop.aquacomputer.de/product_info.php?products_id=3053


I wanted one of those originally but I was thinking the reservoir tube itself was 80mm in diameter. Is that not the case? Most reservoirs are 60mm dia and that is about what I have to work with


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> I wanted one of those originally but I was thinking the reservoir tube itself was 80mm in diameter. Is that not the case? Most reservoirs are 60mm dia and that is about what I have to work with


Not at all mate. Those are 50 mm in diameter. Was the perfect choice for my entho Primo build. Let's see if I can find a decent picture of it.




hope it helps









BTW - *Notice that the Aqualis 450 and 880 ml are 80 mm in diameter. The small ones (50 mm diameter) are the 100 and 150 ml variants.*


----------



## electro2u

rep+ thAnks very much for the confirmation. I think some sites are listing the aqualis as 80x80mm and that may be the dimensions of the pump adapter... I'm ordering bunch of stuff including a 150mm aqualis tonight! Joy!


----------



## Shoggy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> Hey Shoggy! Are these spiffy aquainlet pro and xt reservoirs what you were excited about a bit ago?


No, the next big thing is around the corner and maybe I will find some time today to do a nothing saying but interesting looking teaser photo just to torture you a bit more









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> how about the IR extender we have been waiting extremely patiently for !


Well, I have no idea when this will be available because it has no priority at all.


----------



## Mega Man

It should. Or at least two us how to make our own


----------



## electro2u

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> It should. Or at least two us how to make our own


What would it do? Like what is the functionality of this IR output theoretically?


----------



## Shoggy

It would do noting because the firmware does not contain a single line for the IR output yet.

@electro2u: You could control a TV, audio system or whatever with the aquaero.


----------



## Nornam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> No, the next big thing is around the corner and maybe I will find some time today to do a nothing saying but interesting looking teaser photo just to torture you a bit more
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


I know what I'd like too see







...... That is a Amp type board or something similar that would enable us to use more then one RGB LED with the Aquaero







....


----------



## electro2u

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nornam*
> 
> I know what I'd like too see
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ...... That is a Amp type board or something similar that would enable us to use more then one RGB LED with the Aquaero
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ....


I second that. Compared to IR functionality which I'm pretty sure would be a hard sell, the RGB LEDs for the Aquaero are a must-have. I had a plan to just splice in an extra one because I've seen another user post that they've done it successfully. Then I saw the size of the wires and gave up.

Shoggy--thanks again for the terminal replacement. It arrived today which is really fast considering how affordable the part&shipping was.
I think I'm going to wait on a tube reservoir until a bit more information arrives on the new design you have coming.


----------



## Luca T

Excuse me guys, I would like to buy an Aquaero6XT for my new Rig and I would like to install two D5 pumps in series but I read in the first page in the known issue that Aquaero6 cannot drive properly the PWM D5-pump, is it correct?

And what about the Aquacomputer D5 pump with USB and Aquabus interface? Isn't it a kind of Pwm pump?

Can I manage two of that pump with the Aquaero6XT?


----------



## electro2u

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Luca T*
> 
> Excuse me guys, I would like to buy an Aquaero6XT for my new Rig and I would like to install two D5 pumps in series but I read in the first page in the known issue that Aquaero6 cannot drive properly the PWM D5-pump, is it correct?
> 
> And what about the Aquacomputer D5 pump with USB and Aquabus interface? Isn't it a kind of Pwm pump?
> 
> Can I manage two of that pump with the Aquaero6XT?


For the most part this is correct.

You *could* technically just use standard (non-vario non-pwm) d5s but it's best to use the aquabus d5s with the Aquaero because it frees up 2 fan channels.

Edit: And the aquabus d5 is *like* pwm but gets power from the usb connection of the Aquaero.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Luca T*
> 
> Excuse me guys, I would like to buy an Aquaero6XT for my new Rig and I would like to install two D5 pumps in series but I read in the first page in the known issue that Aquaero6 cannot drive properly the PWM D5-pump, is it correct?
> 
> And what about the Aquacomputer D5 pump with USB and Aquabus interface? Isn't it a kind of Pwm pump?
> 
> Can I manage two of that pump with the Aquaero6XT?


You can use two d5 usb pumps on the Aq6 connected via aquabus. I am running this way. You will only need a Y adapter for the Aquabus (Aquacomputer have one of those). The d5 USB is not a PWM d5, it is a d5 with a custom circuitry board designed by Aq that give you two options: connection via USB directly to the mobo or connection via Aquabus to AQ6. A d5 PWM would have to be connected to the fan header (configured to PWM) but that simply does not work in AQ6 unless you do a custom cable mod developed by IT Diva.


----------



## Luca T

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> For the most part this is correct.
> 
> You *could* technically just use standard (non-vario non-pwm) d5s but it's best to use the aquabus d5s with the Aquaero because it frees up 2 fan channels.
> 
> Edit: And the aquabus d5 is *like* pwm but gets power from the usb connection of the Aquaero.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> You can use two d5 usb pumps on the Aq6 connected via aquabus. I am running this way. You will only need a Y adapter for the Aquabus (Aquacomputer have one of those). The d5 USB is not a PWM d5, it is a d5 with a custom circuitry board designed by Aq that give you two options: connection via USB directly to the mobo or connection via Aquabus to AQ6. A d5 PWM would have to be connected to the fan header (configured to PWM) but that simply does not work in AQ6 unless you do a custom cable mod developed by IT Diva.


Thanks guys

So basically the best option is aquacomputer D5 pumps connected both through aquabus to the Aquaero6?

If I connect to the Mobo with USB can I manage them with A6 as well?

What is exactly the aquabus? Has A6got only one Aquabus?


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nornam*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> No, the next big thing is around the corner and maybe I will find some time today to do a nothing saying but interesting looking teaser photo just to torture you a bit more
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> 
> 
> 
> I know what I'd like too see
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ...... That is a Amp type board or something similar that would enable us to use more then one RGB LED with the Aquaero
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ....
Click to expand...

this already exists i can pm you with details if you want, great guy too excellent cust service !
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Nornam*
> 
> I know what I'd like too see
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ...... That is a Amp type board or something similar that would enable us to use more then one RGB LED with the Aquaero
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ....
> 
> 
> 
> I second that. Compared to IR functionality which I'm pretty sure would be a hard sell, the RGB LEDs for the Aquaero are a must-have. I had a plan to just splice in an extra one because I've seen another user post that they've done it successfully. Then I saw the size of the wires and gave up.
> 
> Shoggy--thanks again for the terminal replacement. It arrived today which is really fast considering how affordable the part&shipping was.
> I think I'm going to wait on a tube reservoir until a bit more information arrives on the new design you have coming.
Click to expand...

not really you can read up on it ( and see pics )

http://forum.aquacomputer.de/weitere-foren/english-forum/p1343073-new-aquaero-5/

HTPC

use PC to control vol, tv on ect


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Luca T*
> 
> Thanks guys
> 
> So basically the best option is aquacomputer D5 pumps connected both through aquabus to the Aquaero6?
> 
> If I connect to the Mobo with USB can I manage them with A6 as well?
> 
> What is exactly the aquabus? Has A6got only one Aquabus?


You would use one of these

http://shop.aquacomputer.de/product_info.php?products_id=2847

to connect the two d5 usb to the Aquaero 6 Aquabus header. You can connect the two pumps via usb to the MB. It will not be connected to the AQ6 directly. But you would still be able to control it along with all the stuff in the AQ6 (fans and so on) using Aquasuite software. In fact you can have the pumps connected both USB and Aquabus at the same time since you will establish a priority on Aquasuite to whatever connection you want (eithe the USB or the Aquabus). Aq 6 have two Aquabus ports marked as low and high. Check pictures of it and you will see those.

http://www.specialtechforums.co.uk/showthread.php?4791-Aqua-computer-new-aquaero-6-!!!!


----------



## electro2u

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> this already exists i can pm you with details if you want, great guy too excellent cust service !
> not really you can read up on it ( and see pics )
> 
> http://forum.aquacomputer.de/weitere-foren/english-forum/p1343073-new-aquaero-5/
> 
> HTPC
> 
> use PC to control vol, tv on ect


"Not really"? It's not that I can't grasp the function or need pictures to explain it. It's that I don't watch tv (mindless garbage almost all of it, IMO) and don't have any need to control etc from my pc.

It would be awesome if you would just post the link for whoever is selling RGB splitters/add boards for the Aquaero though.


----------



## Mega Man

think about it,

if you have a HTPC, and your pc can control functions like power on ( tv/amp ) volume, change channels

well that would make your pc into ..... everything you would need

and as my link shows.... it already exists !

_*since you didnt read the link*_ and / or my post, which you quoted and CLEARLY states "HTPC",
Quote:


> Transmit/Receive infrared commands
> You can control other devices in your house with the optional IR transmitter of the aquaero. The aquaero 5 can handle all important IR-protocols so you are able to manage your home theatre components. You won't need the aquasuite software for this management. The aquaero is able to turn on/off your amplifier or you TV after the PC gets started. Furthermore through the aquasuite software the aquaero can analyze, learn and reproduce the signals of other IR-remotes.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> http://forum.aquacomputer.de/berwachung-und-steuerung/102291-jeak-rgb-amp/ (For running RGB Strips off the RGB Header)
> 
> http://forum.aquacomputer.de/berwachung-und-steuerung/101672-mehrere-led-am-aquaero-reprise/ (How to build your own Aquaero RGB Amp)


with the lower one you can build youw own and be able to use the RGB from AQ if you make the correct one, or make one to power your LED strips ( RGB )

the upper one is built and shipped to you, that is the one i own( 4 of )


----------



## Luca T

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> You would use one of these
> 
> http://shop.aquacomputer.de/product_info.php?products_id=2847
> 
> to connect the two d5 usb to the Aquaero 6 Aquabus header. You can connect the two pumps via usb to the MB. It will not be connected to the AQ6 directly. But you would still be able to control it along with all the stuff in the AQ6 (fans and so on) using Aquasuite software. In fact you can have the pumps connected both USB and Aquabus at the same time since you will establish a priority on Aquasuite to whatever connection you want (eithe the USB or the Aquabus). Aq 6 have two Aquabus ports marked as low and high. Check pictures of it and you will see those.
> 
> http://www.specialtechforums.co.uk/showthread.php?4791-Aqua-computer-new-aquaero-6-!!!!


The Aquabus is just a 4pin connector, isn't it?!

Which is the difference between high and low aquabus connection? Can I connect a pump to High-connector and another pump to low-connector? or I need an Y-cable?

Anyway I didn't undestand well the "double" connection usb/aquabus:
1)I can use only usb, and control trough Aquasuite,
or
2)usb+Aquabus and I have to select a priority in Aquasuite but I don't understand which is the point of a double connection?
Or
3)Can I connect only Aquabus? Are pumps powered?


----------



## Shoggy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> Edit: And the aquabus d5 is *like* pwm but gets power from the usb connection of the Aquaero.


Small correction. The aquabus does not power the pump. It will get its power from the PSU. The aquabus is only used for the communication between the devices. Only small things like sensors can be powered through the aquabus.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Luca T*
> 
> The Aquabus is just a 4pin connector, isn't it?!
> 
> Which is the difference between high and low aquabus connection? Can I connect a pump to High-connector and another pump to low-connector? or I need an Y-cable?
> 
> Anyway I didn't undestand well the "double" connection usb/aquabus:
> 1)I can use only usb, and control trough Aquasuite,
> or
> 2)usb+Aquabus and I have to select a priority in Aquasuite but I don't understand which is the point of a double connection?
> Or
> 3)Can I connect only Aquabus? Are pumps powered?


The lowspeed aquabus can be only used for the tubemeter and the multiswitch. Both devices are pretty old and also not on sale anymore. It is not possible to use newer devices like the D5 pump on the lowspeed aquabus. Everything must be connected to the highspeed aquabus.

Using USB provides much more possibilities while using aquabus only allows to control the speed of the pump and to forward a temperature sensor if connected. If you connect both interfaces the priority is important because the aquaero (aquabus) could tell the pump to run with 80% and the software (USB) could tell it to run with 70%. So this creates a nice conflict and the priority tells the pump if it should follow the commands of the aquabus or USB.

As mentioned before. The aquabus alone does not power the pump. It must be connected to the PSU.


----------



## electro2u

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> think about it,
> 
> if you have a HTPC, and your pc can control functions like power on ( tv/amp ) volume, change channels


Sorry. I understand.
Thanks for the link to the RGB amp, I think I'll pick one up.
Was grumpy for unrelated reasons.

Editted for grumpiness


----------



## aaroc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> It should. Or at least two us how to make our own


I want to buy one IR blaster Aquacomputer or 3rd party. In the meantime Im using a RC6 usb receiver (Windows media center Remote) that can connect 2 IR blasters, they work perfect with Linux (XBMC+LIRC) and Windows.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nornam*
> 
> I know what I'd like too see
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ...... That is a Amp type board or something similar that would enable us to use more then one RGB LED with the Aquaero
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ....


I ordered one (Megaman posted the link) and two weeks later it arrived in south america.







I have the official RGB led from AquaComputer, but this is cooler


----------



## IT Diva

Hey guys, . . .

While the subject of the RGB output is at hand, . . does anyone know if there's any intensity/brightness control, or is it just an on-off control for each of the 3 color connections?

I'm thinking about maybe working on an amp board for my "Tropical Frost" chiller build, since it's in a Phantom 820 that has the integrated RGB lighting with the integrated NZXT hue, and I have extra RGB LED modules that I could add.



The internal D5s and the rad fans are PWM and controlled by the A6.

I'm using the same little mod on the Aquaero end of a dual 4 pin extension that I've shown here, and not a hint of a problem.

There's also a custom controller PCB that controls the D5 Strong pumps on the rear cold loop res/pump module and works with the Solid State Relay module to control the chillers, which gets it's control input from the A6

]



Darlene


----------



## Nornam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> this already exists i can pm you with details if you want, great guy too excellent cust service !
> not really you can read up on it ( and see pics )


Cheers Mega man







But I already own 3 of Jeaks AMP boards.. I was just wishing that AC would've come up with one of their own by now...

Your also spot on as regards to Jeak being a great guy to deal with & great cust service, dealt with him several times myself with some quite specific requirements that I wanted & he came up trumps each time with everything very well made & all worked with no issues what so ever









Nam


----------



## Luca T

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> Small correction. The aquabus does not power the pump. It will get its power from the PSU. The aquabus is only used for the communication between the devices. Only small things like sensors can be powered through the aquabus.
> The lowspeed aquabus can be only used for the tubemeter and the multiswitch. Both devices are pretty old and also not on sale anymore. It is not possible to use newer devices like the D5 pump on the lowspeed aquabus. Everything must be connected to the highspeed aquabus.
> 
> Using USB provides much more possibilities while using aquabus only allows to control the speed of the pump and to forward a temperature sensor if connected. If you connect both interfaces the priority is important because the aquaero (aquabus) could tell the pump to run with 80% and the software (USB) could tell it to run with 70%. So this creates a nice conflict and the priority tells the pump if it should follow the commands of the aquabus or USB.
> 
> As mentioned before. The aquabus alone does not power the pump. It must be connected to the PSU.


So to connect two Aquacomputer D5 pumps I have to connect both to Psu as usual, then connect both to the Aquaero6 to the Aquabus with an Y-cable (and as optional I can ad even the connection of both directly to MB with Usb), is it correct?

But On The Aquaero6 I have only one Hi-speed Aquabus, if I connect pumps there what about the other like flow-meter etc?


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Luca T*
> 
> So to connect two Aquacomputer D5 pumps I have to connect both to Psu as usual, then connect both to the Aquaero6 to the Aquabus with an Y-cable (and as optional I can ad even the connection of both directly to MB with Usb), is it correct?
> 
> But On The Aquaero6 I have only one Hi-speed Aquabus, if I connect pumps there what about the other like flow-meter etc?


Use more than one splitter cable, or I like to use these;
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/23519/ele-1299/4-Pin_PWM_Power_Distribution_PCB_4x_Way_Block_MMT-PCB-4P-44P.html?tl=g47c121s424&id=7Wk7qGwv&mv_pc=743

Turns one Aquabus port into 4

When using multiple Aquabus devices they must first be connected via usb and assigned an aquabus address.
Keeping them connected and controlled via usb allows manual speed control through aquasuite
using Aquabus allows the Aquaero to control the pumps
It will make much more sense when actually using them.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Ok Folks reporting back on the AQ5 lt PWM. As Shoggy said before the chance of getting to control a d5 PWM seems to be on 50% x 50%. Right on target. One of my AQ 5 lt is fully capable of controlling the d5 PWM...Alas the other is not....


----------



## Luca T

Can I create an automatic curve-profile based on cpu-temp so the Aquaero can rise pumps' speed on needings?


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Luca T*
> 
> Can I create an automatic curve-profile based on cpu-temp so the Aquaero can rise pumps' speed on needings?


I think you can (never did myself) but I would not do it based on cpu temp and would not do it for pumps speed either. I would rather create a profile for water temp or water-ambient temp (delta) to control the speed of the rad fans. Read Norman guide to the Aquaero.

http://www.specialtechforums.co.uk/showthread.php?4791-Aqua-computer-new-aquaero-6-

You will find plenty of information there. The link is on the first page of this thread. BTW How are you doing @Nornam? Hope doing fine mate


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Ok Folks reporting back on the AQ5 lt PWM. As Shoggy said before the chance of getting to control a d5 PWM seems to be on 50% x 50%. Right on target. One of my AQ 5 lt is fully capable of controlling the d5 PWM...Alas the other is not....


And the longer you play about with them, you may well find the one that works now, stops, and the one that doesn't, starts to . . .

That 50% can be both half the units, or almost all the units, half the time.

Darlene


----------



## Nornam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> BTW How are you doing @Nornam? Hope doing fine mate


Not too bad cheers Gab & thanks for asking Bud







... The treatment I'm having (Chemotherapy) is showing it's doing some good which was great to hear as the Chemo knocks seven bells of Sss****e outta me with each session I have (I can see why some people stop the Chemo treatment







)... But had a bit of bad news also last week as there is another Tumour that has popped up on the bone of my spine in my neck, so I'm hoping the Chemo will begin to work on that one as it has on the others







...

Again thanks for asking mate & I hope all is well with your good self







....

Nam..


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nornam*
> 
> Not too bad cheers Gab & thanks for asking Bud
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ... The treatment I'm having (Chemotherapy) is showing it's doing some good which was great to hear as the Chemo knocks seven bells of Sss****e outta me with each session I have (I can see why some people stop the Chemo treatment
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )... But had a bit of bad news also last week as there is another Tumour that has popped up on the bone of my spine in my neck, so I'm hoping the Chemo will begin to work on that one as it has on the others
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ...
> 
> Again thanks for asking mate & I hope all is well with your good self
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ....
> 
> Nam..


Keep fighting mate, I am sure the chemo will beat this thing down just like before.


----------



## electro2u

Yes. Don't know you at all but thinking of you and sending my Chi your way.


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nornam*
> 
> the Chemo will begin to work on that one as it has on the others
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Keep fighting mate, you will beat it


----------



## VSG

+1, give those buggers what they deserve!


----------



## MeanBruce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> Using USB provides much more possibilities while using aquabus only allows to control the speed of the pump and to forward a temperature sensor if connected. If you connect both interfaces the priority is important because the aquaero (aquabus) could tell the pump to run with 80% and the software (USB) could tell it to run with 70%. So this creates a nice conflict and the priority tells the pump if it should follow the commands of the aquabus or USB.
> 
> As mentioned before. The aquabus alone does not power the pump. It must be connected to the PSU.


The AquaComputer D5 Aquabus cable carries no advantage as an interface connected to the Aquaero 6 XT? It does allow you to select pump speeds from 25% to 0% if needed, whereas the MPS bottoms out at 25%.

Used the Aquaero 6 RPM output today to feed the mobo the PUMP information, what it needs at a shorter distance and smarter cabling opposed to AquaComputer D5 to mobo link...

Thank you AquaComputer for thinking of that in advance.


----------



## Nornam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Keep fighting mate, I am sure the chemo will beat this thing down just like before.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> Yes. Don't know you at all but thinking of you and sending my Chi your way.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> Keep fighting mate, you will beat it


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> +1, give those buggers what they deserve!


Many thanks to you all, I am truly touched & appreciate your support greatly







. I have another session of Chemo today which should start the beat down of the New tumour that has popped up on my spine in my neck as well as continuing to make progress on all the older tomours







..

I'm lucky to have the Reviewing that I do to help keep my mind & body occupied although I have days when I can't do anything because I feel so rough & weak, But I do try & do as much on the reviewing as I can manage & I have the support of Specialtech that have been so patient & continue to give me great support as regards to the reviewing that I am able to do, I have a great deal to thank those guys for & the great support from the Specialtech forum guys as well







...

Sooooo... Once again many thanks for your support chaps I greatly appreciate it









Nam....(still fighting & will continue fighting







)


----------



## FrancisJF

Not sure if this was posted again but does anyone have size dimensions of Aquaero 5 LT USB?


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FrancisJF*
> 
> Not sure if this was posted again but does anyone have size dimensions of Aquaero 5 LT USB?


It's the size of a half-height 5.25 drive bay. 1.625″ high by 5.75″ wide (41.3 mm × 146.1 mm)


----------



## FrancisJF

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> It's the size of a half-height 5.25 drive bay. 1.625″ high by 5.75″ wide (41.3 mm × 146.1 mm)


Many thanks Wisk!


----------



## Jakewat

Add me to the club








http://s1354.photobucket.com/user/J...c-45a4-a95d-5f8ca27e8179_zpsbe751ea2.jpg.html

Can't wait to get using this, completely new to the aquero and bought one without knowing much about them at all. Will be using it in my re-build in the next few months after my exams, so I will be sure to be firing some questions at you guys.


----------



## iBored

Hi, in the aquabus cable, is pin 5 (ground) necessary? Its the ground that wraps around in the insulation.
I'm asking cos sleeving with that insulation is quite a pain. Wouldn't harm to remove that pvc insulation right?


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iBored*
> 
> Hi, in the aquabus cable, is pin 5 (ground) necessary? Its the ground that wraps around in the insulation.
> I'm asking cos sleeving with that insulation is quite a pain. Wouldn't harm to remove that pvc insulation right?


I assume you mean the USB cable. I use Bitfenix USB extension cables with my devices that only use 4 pins and they all work fine. I would guess that the shielding would be needed for very long cables.


----------



## iBored

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> I assume you mean the USB cable. I use Bitfenix USB extension cables with my devices that only use 4 pins and they all work fine. I would guess that the shielding would be needed for very long cables.


Ah yes. Thanks. While we're on this, I gotta ask, isn't the aquabus cable just another female to female fan connector?


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iBored*
> 
> Ah yes. Thanks. While we're on this, I gotta ask, isn't the aquabus cable just another female to female fan connector?


Yes they are. I use these;

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/23519/ele-1299/4-Pin_PWM_Power_Distribution_PCB_4x_Way_Block_MMT-PCB-4P-44P.html?tl=g47c121s424&id=g9wgDa9g&mv_pc=854

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/23516/cab-1947/ModMyToys_4-Pin_PWM_Female_to_4-Pin_PWM_Female_Cable_Adapter_-_24_-_Sleeved_Black_MMT-FC-44-24BKS.html?id=g9wgDa9g&mv_pc=950


----------



## iBored

@Jakusonfire Many thanks mate!


----------



## apw63

Hello,

New Aquaero 6 pro owner here.


I'm having a few issues with my Aquaero. I've been talking with AC. Soon I'll be taking the system down to send the Aquaero, and 2 MPS devices back to AC for troubleshooting, repair or replacement . No matter what I do I can not get the flow sensor or level sensor to report as connected with aquabus. Both work correctly while connected to USB. The mps 400 will report as realtime clock but never as flow sensor.

Another issue I have is the Aquaero does not stay powered up when system is in hibernation. I'm not sure if this is a issue with my motherboard (maximus vii formula) or the Aquaero its self. My OS is win 7 pro. Aquaero is connected to the MB USB 2.0 header.

Other than these issues I am happy with the Aquaero.

Please add me to the owners list

Andy


----------



## B NEGATIVE

New XT6 for LUMO...


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> New XT6 for LUMO...
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


You mean "Pro", not XT? . . . .

or did that sneaky Shoggy slip a change in on me . .

Either way, excellent choice, of course . . .

Darlene


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> New XT6 for LUMO...
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You mean "Pro", not XT? . . . .
> 
> or did that sneaky Shoggy slip a change in on me . .
> 
> Either way, excellent choice, of course . . .
> 
> Darlene
Click to expand...

Im being a div....Pro,not XT...I keep lumping the whole range under XT.....and I just had to edit a lot of logs.....


----------



## Trestles126

New owner received it today for my luxe EK build


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *apw63*
> 
> Hello,
> 
> New Aquaero 6 pro owner here.
> 
> 
> I'm having a few issues with my Aquaero. I've been talking with AC. Soon I'll be taking the system down to send the Aquaero, and 2 MPS devices back to AC for troubleshooting, repair or replacement . No matter what I do I can not get the flow sensor or level sensor to report as connected with aquabus. Both work correctly while connected to USB. The mps 400 will report as realtime clock but never as flow sensor.
> 
> Another issue I have is the Aquaero does not stay powered up when system is in hibernation. I'm not sure if this is a issue with my motherboard (maximus vii formula) or the Aquaero its self. My OS is win 7 pro. Aquaero is connected to the MB USB 2.0 header.
> 
> Other than these issues I am happy with the Aquaero.
> 
> Please add me to the owners list
> 
> Andy


Your mobo had to support stand by power and you have to have your aq plugged into a stand by power usb port


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *apw63*
> 
> Hello,
> 
> New Aquaero 6 pro owner here.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm having a few issues with my Aquaero. I've been talking with AC. Soon I'll be taking the system down to send the Aquaero, and 2 MPS devices back to AC for troubleshooting, repair or replacement . No matter what I do I can not get the flow sensor or level sensor to report as connected with aquabus. Both work correctly while connected to USB. The mps 400 will report as realtime clock but never as flow sensor.
> 
> Another issue I have is the Aquaero does not stay powered up when system is in hibernation. I'm not sure if this is a issue with my motherboard (maximus vii formula) or the Aquaero its self. My OS is win 7 pro. Aquaero is connected to the MB USB 2.0 header.
> 
> Other than these issues I am happy with the Aquaero.
> 
> Please add me to the owners list
> 
> Andy


There is probably nothing wrong with the devices. I have had those exact same problems with Aquabus detection and always got it sorted out with enough patience and restarting.


----------



## apw63

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> Your mobo had to support stand by power and you have to have your aq plugged into a stand by power usb port


Thank you for the reply. I've read through the MB manual and posted over at the ROG forums. The MB back panel USB ports stay hot during sleep.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> There is probably nothing wrong with the devices. I have had those exact same problems with Aquabus detection and always got it sorted out with enough patience and restarting.


Well after 2 months of factory resets and countless restarts. I can only get the flow sensor to report as realtime clock. I don't know what else to do. Only thing I have not tried is hard reset. AC thought that hard reset would be ineffective' hard reset being for corrupt firmware flashes. I don't know what else I can try other than send in, AC suggested I send it all in.

Andy.


----------



## Iox1982

Hi folks,

I've been reading for quite long time. Finally I will start to build my rig and have some questions about Aquaero 6 XT.

I will get x16 Corsair PWM fans and two D5 PWM pumps.

Unfortunately, I guess I will have to get aquacomputer D5 pumps to be controlled as a single unit ( I don't see advantage controlling them individually) linked thru Aquabus Y cable.

Can somebody confirm Corsair PWM works properly with the new version of Aquaero 6? Once I get the new version, is there any way to check I got the new one?

Thanks a lot in advance!


----------



## Trestles126

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Iox1982*
> 
> Hi folks,
> 
> I've been reading for quite long time. Finally I will start to build my rig and have some questions about Aquaero 6 XT.
> 
> I will get x16 Corsair PWM fans and two D5 PWM pumps.
> 
> Unfortunately, I guess I will have to get aquacomputer D5 pumps to be controlled as a single unit ( I don't see advantage controlling them individually) linked thru Aquabus Y cable.
> 
> Can somebody confirm Corsair PWM works properly with the new version of Aquaero 6? Once I get the new version, is there any way to check I got the new one?
> 
> Thanks a lot in advance!


What he said!


----------



## poulk

Hello guys!
Have any one problem like this ?
I have aquero 5 xt with wc block.
I plug to aquero.
1 channel - 9 x 120mm fans phobya
2 channel - 1x ddc pump 10w.
3 channel - 9x 120 mm fans phobya
4 channel - 1x ddc pump 10w
Its work fine long time.
I disassemble my system and some time system don't work.
Today i back all on place and start system again.
But 1 chanel of aquero dont work.
Fans don't spin








I use 1x to 9x splitter for fans (phobya). I check it. looks fine.
But when i plug 1 fan to this channel, it's work fine. Back to 9 fans. Nothing happens








Any thoughts? What i do wrong?
I try to firmware update. It's don't do nothing with problem.
Do this channel die? What i can do with it?


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *poulk*
> 
> Hello guys!
> Have any one problem like this ?
> I have aquero 5 xt with wc block.
> I plug to aquero.
> 1 channel - 9 x 120mm fans phobya
> 2 channel - 1x ddc pump 10w.
> 3 channel - 9x 120 mm fans phobya
> 4 channel - 1x ddc pump 10w
> Its work fine long time.
> I disassemble my system and some time system don't work.
> Today i back all on place and start system again.
> But 1 chanel of aquero dont work.
> Fans don't spin
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I use 1x to 9x splitter for fans (phobya). I check it. looks fine.
> But when i plug 1 fan to this channel, it's work fine. Back to 9 fans. Nothing happens
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Any thoughts? What i do wrong?
> I try to firmware update. It's don't do nothing with problem.
> Do this channel die? What i can do with it?


check the specs of your fan. Most likely you are close to the limit per channel... Or the splitter is to blame... I don't recall from the top of my head the figure but I think was something like 1.65 A er channel in the AQ 5? So check the spec per fan and multiply x9 to get an idea how much you are putting on each channel.


----------



## poulk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> check the specs of your fan. Most likely you are close to the limit per channel... Or the splitter is to blame... I don't recall from the top of my head the figure but I think was something like 1.65 A er channel in the AQ 5? So check the spec per fan and multiply x9 to get an idea how much you are putting on each channel.


This set up work fine more then 1 year. I see this problem only today.
Splitter. I plug it (with all 9 fans) direct to PSU out. Work good.
I try more experiment with this stuff. But any way looks strange.


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *poulk*
> 
> Hello guys!
> Have any one problem like this ?
> I have aquero 5 xt with wc block.
> I plug to aquero.
> 1 channel - 9 x 120mm fans phobya
> 2 channel - 1x ddc pump 10w.
> 3 channel - 9x 120 mm fans phobya
> 4 channel - 1x ddc pump 10w
> Its work fine long time.
> I disassemble my system and some time system don't work.
> Today i back all on place and start system again.
> But 1 chanel of aquero dont work.
> Fans don't spin
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I use 1x to 9x splitter for fans (phobya). I check it. looks fine.
> But when i plug 1 fan to this channel, it's work fine. Back to 9 fans. Nothing happens
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Any thoughts? What i do wrong?
> I try to firmware update. It's don't do nothing with problem.
> Do this channel die? What i can do with it?


Seeing as it works with 1 fan it is pretty clearly a problem with the fan splitter. You need to check all the wiring and the connections.


----------



## electro2u

I'm so confused. My Aquaero is syncing the time correctly but it is 1 hour off. Set at UTC -6 in system, BIOS. Device time and time on the device do not agree with each other by 1 hour... Was fine til I disconnected everything yesterday and set it back up. This is the only issue I have :{


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> I'm so confused. My Aquaero is syncing the time correctly but it is 1 hour off. Set at UTC -6 in system, BIOS. Device time and time on the device do not agree with each other by 1 hour... Was fine til I disconnected everything yesterday and set it back up. This is the only issue I have :{


daylight savings time issue perhaps?


----------



## Kimir

Most definitely, yes.
We changed time yesterday here.


----------



## electro2u

Oh... that's interesting!
In the US we don't change time til next Sunday








I thought I was broken








Thanks folks


----------



## Nikonthenet

Recently got my WC build finished and really impressed with the Aquaero and AQ components in general!

I have a few questions I hope someone won't mind helping me with:

1. I 'often'(but not always) get an alarm on system startup. The pump stops for a second and then immediately starts up again, is this normal?

2. Is there an alarm history? I've been playing with settings to trigger an alarm to see how it works and I've noticed that there appears to be no notification of exactly what has triggered the alarm.

3. I can't for the life of me get Aquasuite to start on windows(8.1) startup, I have to start it manually. I see this option and also that it requires admin rights to change -this I have done, but still no joy...

Any help/pointers would be appreciated!


----------



## capreppy

Looking to step up my game on my sig rig.

12 NB E-Loops. 3 each on ModMyToys 3-Pin Power Distribution PCB - 5-Way Block.
3 XSPC Temp Sensors
1 XSPC D5 Pump

I don't have a flow monitor and not likely to add one

Given what I have above, would the 5XT or the 6XT be recommended? Want to control fan speed and pump speed via a controller. Ideally, I'd like to control some LED lighting as well.


----------



## poulk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> Seeing as it works with 1 fan it is pretty clearly a problem with the fan splitter. You need to check all the wiring and the connections.


nope, splitter is fine







i conect it to second channel and it's fully functional.
most funny i again connect 1 fan to first channel (with problem) and fan work








it's weird. don't know what even think








p.s. how do you think it be no problem if i connect/disconnect fans when pc and aquero on?


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *capreppy*
> 
> Looking to step up my game on my sig rig.
> 
> 12 NB E-Loops. 3 each on ModMyToys 3-Pin Power Distribution PCB - 5-Way Block.
> 3 XSPC Temp Sensors
> 1 XSPC D5 Pump
> 
> I don't have a flow monitor and not likely to add one
> 
> Given what I have above, would the 5XT or the 6XT be recommended? Want to control fan speed and pump speed via a controller. Ideally, I'd like to control some LED lighting as well.


with that pump you will not be able to control it (finely) in the Aquaero (whatever version). That pump is made to be controlled via the red little knob on the back.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nikonthenet*
> 
> Recently got my WC build finished and really impressed with the Aquaero and AQ components in general!
> 
> I have a few questions I hope someone won't mind helping me with:
> 
> 1. I 'often'(but not always) get an alarm on system startup. The pump stops for a second and then immediately starts up again, is this normal?
> 
> 2. Is there an alarm history? I've been playing with settings to trigger an alarm to see how it works and I've noticed that there appears to be no notification of exactly what has triggered the alarm.
> 
> 3. I can't for the life of me get Aquasuite to start on windows(8.1) startup, I have to start it manually. I see this option and also that it requires admin rights to change -this I have done, but still no joy...
> 
> Any help/pointers would be appreciated!


Help us help you. Give us detail of your system, loop and pump. Is your pump one of those Eheim or Aquacomputer?

Is this one by any chance?

http://shop.aquacomputer.de/product_info.php?products_id=1299

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *poulk*
> 
> nope, splitter is fine
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> i conect it to second channel and it's fully functional.
> most funny i again connect 1 fan to first channel (with problem) and fan work
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> it's weird. don't know what even think
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> p.s. how do you think it be no problem if i connect/disconnect fans when pc and aquero on?


Are the channels all configured in the same way in Aquasuite? Try the splitter on channel 1 but with only 5 fans on it. Do they spin? You said one spin so test one in the splitter. Then 2, 3, 4 and so on.

I remember reading somewhere that the Aquaero does not like things getting connected or disconnected while on but don't recall if was a warning for the fan headers too or other Aq devices...


----------



## Nikonthenet

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Help us help you. Give us detail of your system, loop and pump. Is your pump one of those Eheim Aquacomputer?


Sorry about that, was silly of me, and thank you!

Yea, I'm using the Aquastream Advanced connected to Aquaero via Aquabus to the High port, and to the mobo on USB.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nikonthenet*
> 
> Sorry about that, was silly of me, and thank you!
> 
> Yea, I'm using the Aquastream Advanced connected to Aquaero via Aquabus to the High port, and to the mobo on USB.


I might be mistaken (don't have that pump) but I remember reading it was a normal behavior of that pump. Here:

http://martinsliquidlab.org/2011/10/13/aquacomputer-aquastream-xt-ultra/

Hope it helps


----------



## Nikonthenet

Thanks again Gabrielzm! Strange that it doesn't always do it.

Now if only I can get the Aquastream to start with windows!
And work out which alarm is triggered. Seems like an oversight that theres no alarm history, that I can find...


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nikonthenet*
> 
> Thanks again Gabrielzm! Strange that it doesn't always do it.
> 
> Now if only I can get the Aquastream to start with windows!
> And work out which alarm is triggered. Seems like an oversight that theres no alarm history, that I can find...


Sorry I can't help you more. I am fairly certain Shoggy will chime in at some point to help you. Or drop him a PM (He is the in house AQ representative). Read the Martin review but that pump have a smart behavior and self-calibration and Martin mention that from time to time that would lead the pump to turn off and then on again which might be triggering the alarm. That's why I guessed you have that pump in the first place.


----------



## electro2u

Bad picture (only had 1 shot left) but thought I'd show off my Aq6XT and the black countersunk screws I had shipped from Alabama... thank you Fastenal!


----------



## Trestles126

Just about done with my new build. Purchased the aquaero6 to finish it off. I have a few questions about initial set up.

Here are my specs
Z97 asus hero vii
2- 240 rads both with corsair pmw sp120s
3 3pin case fans
Phanteks luxe with pmw hub
1 led strip (non phanteks controlled
Ek/d5 pump

Id like to utilize the a6 to its fullest.
1rad 2 fans on one channel
1 rad 2 fans on the second
1 d5 pump on 3rd
3 case fans on last

I'm kinda overwhelmed at the capabilities of this unit. I guess my question is what should I do beyond running fans n lights? Does the a6 when hooked up via usb display Cpu and gpu temps from mobo? Can you get it to shut down if the pump dies(sees 0 rpms) not to worried about radiator fans adjusting speed as I'll prob just run them full tilt all the time.

Do u need to use heat sensor prongs to get temp readouts? If so where exactly do u install them?

My brains gonna explode as its been 13 years since I've been around a computer and its not like riding a bike... Just been reading a lot and need a abbreviated how to guide with this thing.... IF that exists!


----------



## tCoLL

I see I've stumbled on quite the group here! New AQ 5 LT owner here (in the mail) and I have some basic questions I'm sure will be no problem for you pros.

I've got three Phanteks PH-F140SP, one Phanteks PH-F120SP, and one Phanteks PH-F200SP I'd like to control. The 140s and 120 are on radiators, and the 200mm is an intake in the front. There's a possibility I may add 3x140mm fans in the future. From my reading, heat is a bit of an issue with the 5 LT, and since I'd like to mount mine behind my motherboard tray, I won't have space for the waterblock. I've purchased the heatsink in the hope that will be enough. If it's possible, I also have 4x20in LED strips and a swiftech MCP655 I'd also like to link up. Is this too much for the LT? Can someone recommend cables (I know I'll need fan splitters for sure, what else) to get all this stuff connected? Thanks guys, can't wait to get it in my possession!

edit - Also, what is the lowest/highest RPM I can run these fans at?


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Trestles126*
> 
> Just about done with my new build. Purchased the aquaero6 to finish it off. I have a few questions about initial set up.
> 
> Here are my specs
> Z97 asus hero vii
> 2- 240 rads both with corsair pmw sp120s
> 3 3pin case fans
> Phanteks luxe with pmw hub
> 1 led strip (non phanteks controlled
> Ek/d5 pump
> 
> Id like to utilize the a6 to its fullest.
> 1rad 2 fans on one channel
> 1 rad 2 fans on the second
> 1 d5 pump on 3rd
> 3 case fans on last
> 
> I'm kinda overwhelmed at the capabilities of this unit. I guess my question is what should I do beyond running fans n lights? Does the a6 when hooked up via usb display Cpu and gpu temps from mobo? Can you get it to shut down if the pump dies(sees 0 rpms) not to worried about radiator fans adjusting speed as I'll prob just run them full tilt all the time.
> 
> Do u need to use heat sensor prongs to get temp readouts? If so where exactly do u install them?
> 
> My brains gonna explode as its been 13 years since I've been around a computer and its not like riding a bike... Just been reading a lot and need a abbreviated how to guide with this thing.... IF that exists!


Read Namron guides/review at specialtech. They are linked on the first post of this thread. That would get you most (if not all) of your answers.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tCoLL*
> 
> I see I've stumbled on quite the group here! New AQ 5 LT owner here (in the mail) and I have some basic questions I'm sure will be no problem for you pros.
> 
> I've got three Phanteks PH-F140SP, one Phanteks PH-F120SP, and one Phanteks PH-F200SP I'd like to control. The 140s and 120 are on radiators, and the 200mm is an intake in the front. There's a possibility I may add 3x140mm fans in the future. From my reading, heat is a bit of an issue with the 5 LT, and since I'd like to mount mine behind my motherboard tray, I won't have space for the waterblock. I've purchased the heatsink in the hope that will be enough. If it's possible, I also have 4x20in LED strips and a swiftech MCP655 I'd also like to link up. Is this too much for the LT? Can someone recommend cables (I know I'll need fan splitters for sure, what else) to get all this stuff connected? Thanks guys, can't wait to get it in my possession!
> 
> edit - Also, what is the lowest/highest RPM I can run these fans at?


Same goes. Read Namrom guides. the aq5 lt will handle those fans without problem although it will generate heat. In regard to pump make sure is model you can contol using Aquaero.









http://www.specialtechforums.co.uk/showthread.php?3393-NAMS-NEW-BASIC-GUIDE-to-the-AQUAERO-5

EDIT- with the Phanteks fans I can reach around 400 rpm. I am away from my unit but can give you exact numbers tomorrow.

*edit 2 - tCoLL* have you got the d5 yet or will still buy the pump? Perhaps consider the Aquacomputer USB which is around the same price a regular d5 in PPC


----------



## tCoLL

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Same goes. Read Namrom guides. the aq5 lt will handle those fans without problem although it will generate heat. In regard to pump make sure is model you can contol using Aquaero.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.specialtechforums.co.uk/showthread.php?3393-NAMS-NEW-BASIC-GUIDE-to-the-AQUAERO-5
> 
> EDIT- with the Phanteks fans I can reach around 400 rpm. I am away from my unit but can give you exact numbers tomorrow.


Thanks for the pointers. I added the ATX 24pin Aquaero Power connect to my cart...and now I need some sleeving and heatshrink. It never ends does it! I'm going to hold off on the AC pump and res for now...next build! My pump is the MCP655 vario (molex power) Should I look into getting a PA for the extra wattage?

I'm glad the fans can go down to 400rpm, I have them connected to a pwm hub to my mobo but it won't let me take them below 950rpm!

I already have the mcp655.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tCoLL*
> 
> Thanks for the pointers. I added the ATX 24pin Aquaero Power connect to my cart...and now I need some sleeving and heatshrink. It never ends does it! I'm going to hold off on the AC pump and res for now...next build! My pump is the MCP655 vario (molex power) Should I look into getting a PA for the extra wattage?
> 
> I'm glad the fans can go down to 400rpm, I have them connected to a pwm hub to my mobo but it won't let me take them below 950rpm!
> 
> I already have the mcp655.


No need for extra stuff mate from your description. The Aq 5 lt can handle that number of fans. As to the pump I am not sure you will be able to control the vario with any Aquaero. Never tried the vario but I recall others saying here the range of control will be very limited since the pump itself is meant to be controlled via the red knobs... Search the thread I am sure you will find that info here.


----------



## tCoLL

No problem, the pump speed is pretty minor in my book. I usually keep it at two for silence, I'm sure the fans can do the work







Thanks again for the help, +rep!


----------



## Jeffinslaw

Hey guys, is it possible to use one of the Poweradjust 3 units as a stand alone controller? I don't have the room for a full Aquaero so if I could use one of those, that would be great. Only need to control three fans but it would be much nicer solution.

Thanks guys!

-Jeffinslaw


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jeffinslaw*
> 
> Hey guys, is it possible to use one of the Poweradjust 3 units as a stand alone controller? I don't have the room for a full Aquaero so if I could use one of those, that would be great. Only need to control three fans but it would be much nicer solution.
> 
> Thanks guys!
> 
> -Jeffinslaw


Yep mate but only voltage controlled fans no PWM control.


----------



## Jeffinslaw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Jeffinslaw*
> 
> Hey guys, is it possible to use one of the Poweradjust 3 units as a stand alone controller? I don't have the room for a full Aquaero so if I could use one of those, that would be great. Only need to control three fans but it would be much nicer solution.
> 
> Thanks guys!
> 
> -Jeffinslaw
> 
> 
> 
> Yep mate but only voltage controlled fans no PWM control.
Click to expand...

Totally fine without PWM! Fans are AP15's anyways. Awesome, will have to get one then.


----------



## Jakewat

Do you guys reckon I would need to attach a passive heatsink when using 7 fans on one channel and 4 on another? I may just make one anyway just as a project and increase the longevity of the unit.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jeffinslaw*
> 
> Totally fine without PWM! Fans are AP15's anyways. Awesome, will have to get one then.


Absolutely.I think you can hook a lot more than 3 GTs on that little unit. Rated to 30W. And the USB will allow to connect to the MB and be recognized by the aquasuite.


----------



## Jeffinslaw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Jeffinslaw*
> 
> Totally fine without PWM! Fans are AP15's anyways. Awesome, will have to get one then.
> 
> 
> 
> Absolutely.I think you can hook a lot more than 3 GTs on that little unit. Rated to 30W. And the USB will allow to connect to the MB and be recognized by the aquasuite.
Click to expand...

I have a Compact Splash case so only have 3 fans lol. The motherboard doesn't do a very good job of controlling them so I figured this would be a nice solution if it worked and it sounds like it does! So awesome!


----------



## Iox1982

Hi all,

@IT Diva, thanks for the wiring tutorial for the PWM D5

Just a small question: I saw that you tested two pumps serial config. However, will a single A6 fan channel support what wattage 26W+26W ?

Thanks !!!!!


----------



## tCoLL

What do you guys control your fan speed based on? Water temp, or something else? Where do you put your temp probes in your loop? I want to keep my fans quiet when I'm doing light work but would like them to gear up quickly when things start to get warm. Wouldn't water temps take a while to show that the CPU/GPU is getting hot?


----------



## Captaincaveman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Iox1982*
> 
> Hi all,
> 
> @IT Diva, thanks for the wiring tutorial for the PWM D5
> 
> Just a small question: I saw that you tested two pumps serial config. However, will a single A6 fan channel support what wattage 26W+26W ?
> 
> Thanks !!!!!


I think you're supposed to supply the power directly from the PSU. Only rpm and pwm goes into AQ with my dual pumps


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Captaincaveman*
> 
> I think you're supposed to supply the power directly from the PSU. Only rpm and pwm goes into AQ with my dual pumps


^^

this. The 12 v comes from the molex. The pwm fan in the Aquaero (with IT DIva mod) control the rpm.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tCoLL*
> 
> What do you guys control your fan speed based on? Water temp, or something else? Where do you put your temp probes in your loop? I want to keep my fans quiet when I'm doing light work but would like them to gear up quickly when things start to get warm. Wouldn't water temps take a while to show that the CPU/GPU is getting hot?


I create a custom controller on the Aquasuite based on the delta between the ambient temp (temp probe on air intake) - water temp. Have two water probes temp on the top radiator. I take the average of both water temps. So usually is between 0.7 up to 3 or 4 C delta and fans will ramp up based on that delta. The advantage is that no matter how much the ambient temp is variable the controller will always behave the same on the actual warming of the loop liquid..

hope it helps


----------



## Iox1982

Gosh!







I just realized there are some pics showing the connectors. Exactly what you said Capitaincaveman.

Thanks for the reply!


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Iox1982*
> 
> Gosh!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I just realized there are some pics showing the connectors. Exactly what you said Capitaincaveman.
> 
> Thanks for the reply!


Looks like you got it sorted out there now.

The mod is just for the PWM version of the D5 amd they are powered from the PSU via the Molex.

Only 1 tach line and the 2 PWM wires connect to the modded plug.

D.


----------



## RoverVampire

Aquaero 6 xt questions.
I have two high flow usb, two aquastream pumps and one tubemeter( which I should connect to low flow aquabus)

1. Am I right in the following assumption about the ATX break cable. I should cut the protruding green cable and insert the two ends into relay number 2 and 3, for auto shut down if in case of emergency conditions. The other two pin cable can either go to the second power button or stay free and was used in older aquaero for standby.
2. Should I connect the RPM from aquaero to cpm fan of motherboard?
3. Where do I connect the alarm from pumps and flow meters. Can I join them all with y cable and connect to ?
4. Can I use y cable to connect from aquabus of two high flow meters to the Flow of aquaero 6? And similarly two pumps to high flow.
5. Or can I connect two pumps and two flow meters using y cables from aquabus and attach all to the aquabus high flow of aquaero6.
6. Am I rigt that the two pwm pin connections are currently redundant. If not whar r they for.
7. The temp pins on pump and flow meters are to connect sensors as on the aquaero xt. They do not provide readings to the main unit. Correct?

Thanks in advance.


----------



## poulk

Guys somebody may tell, can i connect and disconnect to the fans aquaero (5 xt) when the computer and aquaero is working ? Or is it better not to do it?


----------



## vegarhed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *poulk*
> 
> Guys somebody may tell, can i connect and disconnect to the fans aquaero (5 xt) when the computer and aquaero is working ? Or is it better not to do it?


For sure safest to shut down computer before fiddling with connections. General rule of thumb for electronics, really. If you're in that much of a hurry to change something that you can't wait for the computer to reboot, then leave it for when you have the time.


----------



## Shoggy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RoverVampire*
> 
> 1. Am I right in the following assumption about the ATX break cable. I should cut the protruding green cable and insert the two ends into relay number 2 and 3, for auto shut down if in case of emergency conditions. The other two pin cable can either go to the second power button or stay free and was used in older aquaero for standby.
> 2. Should I connect the RPM from aquaero to cpm fan of motherboard?
> 3. Where do I connect the alarm from pumps and flow meters. Can I join them all with y cable and connect to ?
> 4. Can I use y cable to connect from aquabus of two high flow meters to the Flow of aquaero 6? And similarly two pumps to high flow.
> 5. Or can I connect two pumps and two flow meters using y cables from aquabus and attach all to the aquabus high flow of aquaero6.
> 6. Am I rigt that the two pwm pin connections are currently redundant. If not whar r they for.
> 7. The temp pins on pump and flow meters are to connect sensors as on the aquaero xt. They do not provide readings to the main unit. Correct?


1.) Cutting the green wire is right but the end must be connected to pin 1 and 3 of the relay because otherwise you will not be able to start the PC. Pin two is normally pen which means the connection will be also open and the PSU can not be started. DO NOT connect the black/purple cable to the power button or anywhere else. Just leave it unused. The aquaero 6 does not need this nor is there a connector for it.

2.) Up to you. It is optional but not really necessary.

3.) The alarm ports also act like the tacho signal port on the aquaero so it is not really necessary to connect them Do not merge them into one cable since this will not work. When these devices are connected to the aquaero the alarm port is also pretty useless since the aquaero already monitors everything.

4. + 5 ) You can merge that however you want. The aquabus is a real bus system so the devices must be only connected in some way. The sensors and pumps must be connected to the highspeed port while the tubemeter must be connected to the lowspeed port. Since you are using two devices of the same type you have to change the aquabus ID numbers of them. This can be done in the system tab of the device when it is connected via USB. Each device must use an unique aquabus ID. Just image it like a network - two PCs with the same IP address means trouble and the same goes for the aquabus.

6.) Not sure what you mean. The 2-pin ports on the aquaero? They are not the same and each channel has its own control. It also has nothing to do with the PWM controlling signal like fans or some pumps use it. These PWM outputs provide a pulsed 12V signal which can be used to control LED stripes for example.

7.) These ports are meant to connect sensors there and not to connect different devices with each other.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *poulk*
> 
> Guys somebody may tell, can i connect and disconnect to the fans aquaero (5 xt) when the computer and aquaero is working ? Or is it better not to do it?


Not recommend! You would not be the first to damage the device by doing this.


----------



## tCoLL

Would I be able to connect LEDs like in this thread and connect them to one of the fan ports and use it as a dimmer? Seems like most of the guys in there are using fan controllers as dimmers.


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tCoLL*
> 
> Would I be able to connect LEDs like in this thread and connect them to one of the fan ports and use it as a dimmer? Seems like most of the guys in there are using fan controllers as dimmers.


As is mentioned in the post above, the two pwm ports are perfect for connecting dimmable led strips to.


----------



## poulk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> Not recommend! You would not be the first to damage the device by doing this.


Thx.
Btw Shoggy i have question directly to you (as AC member







)
As i say before on this pages, i have wierd problem with 5xt.
When i plug 9x fans (12cm phoby g-silent) to 1 chennel of aquero they don't work. But if i plug 1 fan it's all fine. 
Splitter is ok.
i have conected to this aquero.
1 chan- 9 x phobya g- nano fans 1500rpm
2 chan- 1x ddc 10w
3 chan- 9 x phobay e-loop 1600 rpm
4 chan- 1x ddc 10w
aquero with wc block.
Last year this setup work fine. But few days ago i got this problem after rebild of my system.

*vegarhed*
thx


----------



## tCoLL

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> As is mentioned in the post above, the two pwm ports are perfect for connecting dimmable led strips to.


Any idea how many it can power? I'm looking at probably 6 20in strips, planning on daisy chaining them together. They're only 2 pin, how do I connect to PWM 4 pin?


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tCoLL*
> 
> Any idea how many it can power? I'm looking at probably 6 20in strips, planning on daisy chaining them together. They're only 2 pin, how do I connect to PWM 4 pin?


Its in the manual, but they can power up to 1 amp each so it depends how much power the strips use as to how many can be attached. The ones I use, 6 would be easy.
The ports are two pin ... they are not pwm fan ports.


----------



## TheTou

How can I control the relay with AquaComputerCmd.exe? I have tried

Code:



Code:


C:\Program Files\aquasuite>AquaComputerCmd.exe -sn:04921-39263 -relay:0
Set:-relay: to:0

C:\Program Files\aquasuite>AquaComputerCmd.exe -sn:04921-39263 -relay:100
Set:-relay: to:100

but nothing happens.

I have connected some LED-strips to it and I would like to control them via cmd.


----------



## Shoggy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *poulk*
> 
> Thx.
> Btw Shoggy i have question directly to you (as AC member
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )
> As i say before on this pages, i have wierd problem with 5xt.
> When i plug 9x fans (12cm phoby g-silent) to 1 chennel of aquero they don't work. But if i plug 1 fan it's all fine.
> Splitter is ok.
> i have conected to this aquero.
> 1 chan- 9 x phobya g- nano fans 1500rpm
> 2 chan- 1x ddc 10w
> 3 chan- 9 x phobay e-loop 1600 rpm
> 4 chan- 1x ddc 10w
> aquero with wc block.
> Last year this setup work fine. But few days ago i got this problem after rebild of my system.


That is a lot of stuff for an aquaero 5. What happens if you connect only two or three fans?

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheTou*
> 
> How can I control the relay with AquaComputerCmd.exe? I have tried
> 
> Code:
> 
> 
> 
> Code:
> 
> 
> C:\Program Files\aquasuite>AquaComputerCmd.exe -sn:04921-39263 -relay:0
> Set:-relay: to:0
> 
> C:\Program Files\aquasuite>AquaComputerCmd.exe -sn:04921-39263 -relay:100
> Set:-relay: to:100
> 
> but nothing happens.
> 
> I have connected some LED-strips to it and I would like to control them via cmd.















Works without any problems for me. Make sure that you hear the relay tick when it switches. If you can hear this and still nothing happens I assume there is something wrong with your wiring.


----------



## TheTou

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Works without any problems for me. Make sure that you hear the relay tick when it switches. If you can hear this and still nothing happens I assume there is something wrong with your wiring.


I didn't set the option for overwrite, so this would explain it. Thanks for the hint!


----------



## vegarhed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> I create a custom controller on the Aquasuite based on the delta between the ambient temp (temp probe on air intake) - water temp. Have two water probes temp on the top radiator. I take the average of both water temps. So usually is between 0.7 up to 3 or 4 C delta and fans will ramp up based on that delta. The advantage is that no matter how much the ambient temp is variable the controller will always behave the same on the actual warming of the loop liquid..
> 
> hope it helps


I do pretty much the same, only I don't average the water temp in and water temp out of the radiator. I get the delta T between water temp in and external temp.
Do you have a specific reason for averaging the two rad temps? I would imagine the behavior would be the same; delta increases -> fans run faster. Only the fans generally run at a higher rpm along the entire profile due to the delta being higher to begin with.


----------



## Gabrielzm

The difference is so small anyway. I did not have time to test the accuracy of the water temp sensors (both bitspower) on the in and out of the 420 mm rad and decide to get the average but would not matter anyway since the difference between the two are really small.


----------



## tCoLL

My aquaero arrived today. Couple questions - can the power connect be plugged directly into the psu or does it have to be plugged into the motherboard? My psu is the corsair rm 1000 and unfortunately it won't plug into the psu side because the plug is split into two parts. If it has to be plugged into the end of the psu cable and then into the motherboard like an extension, it's ugly as sin. Can anyone recommend someone that would be able to sleeve it for me, and switch out the clear plugs for black instead?


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tCoLL*
> 
> My aquaero arrived today. Couple questions - can the power connect be plugged directly into the psu or does it have to be plugged into the motherboard? My psu is the corsair rm 1000 and unfortunately it won't plug into the psu side because the plug is split into two parts. If it has to be plugged into the end of the psu cable and then into the motherboard like an extension, it's ugly as sin. Can anyone recommend someone that would be able to sleeve it for me, and switch out the clear plugs for black instead?


mmm I think you should have ordered already sleeved and with changed plugs. Since you already have it you would have to send to someone like Lutro or http://www.ensourced.net/ to have it done. Never used that cable but it looks like it connects both to PSU and MB and to the Aquaero (the male in the MB and female in the PSU 24 pin).


----------



## tCoLL

Where can I order one presleeved? Frozen CPU or PPCs doesn't seem to offer it for this cable.

Ideally I would like to plug directly into my psu so it could be hidden by my psu shroud but it can't because the power connect is a single plug and my psu is like this:

http://www.nix66.ru/utils/showimage.php?src=/img/http://www.nix.ru/autocatalog/power_supply_corsair/184954_2241_draft.jpg

So I will deff need to get it sleeved it seems.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tCoLL*
> 
> Where can I order one presleeved? Frozen CPU or PPCs doesn't seem to offer it for this cable.
> 
> Ideally I would like to plug directly into my psu so it could be hidden by my psu shroud but it can't because the power connect is a single plug and my psu is like this:
> 
> http://www.nix66.ru/utils/showimage.php?src=/img/http://www.nix.ru/autocatalog/power_supply_corsair/184954_2241_draft.jpg
> 
> So I will deff need to get it sleeved it seems.


I think in PPC you can order the sleeve job separately under services but you have to ask them. But since you already got it perhaps would be easier to contact ensourced for example?

hope it helps


----------



## electro2u

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tCoLL*
> 
> Where can I order one presleeved? Frozen CPU or PPCs doesn't seem to offer it for this cable.
> 
> Ideally I would like to plug directly into my psu so it could be hidden by my psu shroud but it can't because the power connect is a single plug and my psu is like this:
> 
> http://www.nix66.ru/utils/showimage.php?src=/img/http://www.nix.ru/autocatalog/power_supply_corsair/184954_2241_draft.jpg
> 
> So I will deff need to get it sleeved it seems.


I bought that cable and then decided I seriously didn't need it. Aq already shuts down comp based on alarm functions and then you have overtemp protection on GPU and CPU anyway.


----------



## aaroc

You can use a PSU power cable extension to hide it. I think is ugly as hell too.


----------



## tCoLL

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *aaroc*
> 
> You can use a PSU power cable extension to hide it. I think is ugly as hell too.


Yea that would work...I spent like 100 bucks on the corsair sleeved cables already, I think it's counterintuitive to buy another sleeved extension. I'm going to return it.


----------



## tCoLL

On another note, that you guys so much for all the help! I'm so close to being done.

I've got 3x140mm + 1x120mm on fan header 1

2x140mm on fan header 2

1x200mm on header 3

1x BP water probe at the hottest point in my loop, after gpu and CPU, before it hits the rad

USB to mobo

And I installed the optional heatsink.

Still planning out where I can discreetly put the temp probes that came with the unit...

Is it ok that I'm connecting my aquaero to my psu via a molex splitter? Molex cable from psu to splitter. Aquaero on one of the splits, just 2 LEDs on the other split. It still gets all the power it needs right?

And my final final question is in regards to my led strips. I gather I should be powering these off of the 2 pin pwm ports. I have 6 20 in strips, which should be fine on a single pwm port but I think I'll break them up so there's 4 on one and 2 on the other. I bought 16 ft of led strip today and have watched and practiced soldering. I'm just confused as to what plugs I'll need to daisy chain them together, and then they need to end at the 2 pin pwm. They're single color strips btw, and I'll probably be running them pretty dim. Forgive all the noob questions!


----------



## Squeaks5635

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Iox1982*
> 
> Hi folks,
> 
> I've been reading for quite long time. Finally I will start to build my rig and have some questions about Aquaero 6 XT.
> 
> I will get x16 Corsair PWM fans and two D5 PWM pumps.
> 
> Unfortunately, I guess I will have to get aquacomputer D5 pumps to be controlled as a single unit ( I don't see advantage controlling them individually) linked thru Aquabus Y cable.
> 
> Can somebody confirm Corsair PWM works properly with the new version of Aquaero 6? Once I get the new version, is there any way to check I got the new one?
> 
> Thanks a lot in advance!


I am also very interested in this as I have read several comments about them fixing the issue with Corsair PWM fans. However, I have yet to see anyone confirm that It is actually fixed (Shoggy), or if there is even a "new version of Aquaero 6"

I want to get the aquaero 6 but only if this issue has been resolved.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Squeaks5635*
> 
> I am also very interested in this as I have read several comments about them fixing the issue with Corsair PWM fans. However, I have yet to see anyone confirm that It is actually fixed (Shoggy), or if there is even a "new version of Aquaero 6"
> 
> I want to get the aquaero 6 but only if this issue has been resolved.


Search the thread, there is a description of how to identify if you got the revised or not version. By this time most US vendors should have the new version but I can not guarantee that you will get the new version since there is no external markings on the box or unit. Most likely you will but I don't want you blame on me if you don't...







If you order from Aquacomputer directly then you can be sure it will be the new one. It is fixed now and you can place several corsair PWM on the same channel and control it.


----------



## Squeaks5635

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Search the thread, there is a description of how to identify if you got the revised or not version. By this time most US vendors should have the new version but I can not guarantee that you will get the new version since there is no external markings on the box or unit. Most likely you will but I don't want you blame on me if you don't...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If you order from Aquacomputer directly then you can be sure it will be the new one. It is fixed now and you can place several corsair PWM on the same channel and control it.


Thanks for the information I will continue to search the thread at least now I know its in here somewhere.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Squeaks5635*
> 
> Thanks for the information I will continue to search the thread at least now I know its in here somewhere.


here we go mate:

http://www.overclock.net/t/1474470/ocn-aquaero-owners-club/620#post_22271863

I think this should be place on the OP Darlene since a lot of people ask about this


----------



## tCoLL

Where can I buy 2 pin PWM plugs?


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tCoLL*
> 
> Where can I buy 2 pin PWM plugs?


It's just a 2-pin female fan connector

http://www.frozencpu.com/cat/l3/g51/c395/s1019/list/p1/Connectors-2_Pin_Connectors-2-Pin_Female-Page1.html
http://www.ebay.com/itm/2-Pin-Female-Fan-Connector-Housing-6-Pack-/121176911245?pt=US_Power_Cables_Connectors&hash=item1c36b4ed8d
https://www.google.com/search?q=2-pin+female+fan+connector


----------



## Trestles126

Ok so a few questions

I have only 4 corsair sp120 fans 2 on each radiator. Plan on hooking 2 into one fan header on my aquaero 6 so 4 fans into 2 bays. I also have 3 darkside dimable led sticks can I plug these into the aquaero 6 and use it to adjust the brightness? Just don't want to overload anything on my first startup? I'm sure this is well below the allowable consumption.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Trestles126*
> 
> Ok so a few questions
> 
> I have only 4 corsair sp120 fans 2 on each radiator. Plan on hooking 2 into one fan header on my aquaero 6 so 4 fans into 2 bays. I also have 3 darkside dimable led sticks can I plug these into the aquaero 6 and use it to adjust the brightness? Just don't want to overload anything on my first startup? I'm sure this is well below the allowable consumption.


On the fans side you are very safe, AQ6 can handle a lot more than that. As for the led you probably are safe too but can you link here to specs of it?


----------



## Trestles126

I bought 1 12" and 2 5.5"

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/25140/lit-415/DarkSide_CONNECT_Dimmable_12_Modular_LED_Strip_-_Red_-_Black_Sleeved.html?tl=g6c77s2118


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Trestles126*
> 
> I bought 1 12" and 2 5.5"
> 
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/25140/lit-415/DarkSide_CONNECT_Dimmable_12_Modular_LED_Strip_-_Red_-_Black_Sleeved.html?tl=g6c77s2118


If those are going in to the PWM 1/2 ports you should be safe with two in one port and the other led on the other. Those are 6v-12v led at a maximum of 2.5 w which will give you 0.2 or 0.4 A. PWM 1/2 are rated to 12 v and 1 A so within safe limits. Are they going there or are you connecting in any other way?


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tCoLL*
> 
> Where can I buy 2 pin PWM plugs?


To use the two PWM ports you need specific connectors. They are terminals so bare wires can be inserted and clamped

http://shop.aquacomputer.de/product_info.php?products_id=1629


----------



## Trestles126

Yes sir I'll have 2 pwm fans per port 2 leds on one and the last on the 4th. A air temp gauge on the exhaust fan. A bitspower g1/4 temp gauge on my top radiator and that's all. I have a ek d5 pump but I'm pretty sure from what I've read I can't change rpms via aquaero6 unless it's their pump.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> If those are going in to the PWM 1/2 ports you should be safe with two in one port and the other led on the other. Those are 6v-12v led at a maximum of 2.5 w which will give you 0.2 or 0.4 A. PWM 1/2 are rated to 12 v and 1 A so within safe limits. Are they going there or are you connecting in any other way?


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Trestles126*
> 
> Yes sir I'll have 2 pwm fans per port 2 leds on one and the last on the 4th. A air temp gauge on the exhaust fan. A bitspower g1/4 temp gauge on my top radiator and that's all. I have a ek d5 pump but I'm pretty sure from what I've read I can't change rpms via aquaero6 unless it's their pump.


So you are not using the PWM 1/2 ports? Those 2 before the fans:

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/image/24389/ex-blc-1747_4.jpg/ex-blc-1747/Aquacomputer_Aquaero_6_Pro_XT_Passive_Heatsink_-_Black_53164.html

with 2 pins only?


----------



## Trestles126

I am not should I for the leds? Or my 2 groups of fans? Or the 2 pin pwm ports for leds? This thing has got me way overwhelmed so far I've breezes thru the hole build!


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Trestles126*
> 
> I am not should I for the leds? Or my 2 groups of fans? Or the 2 pin pwm ports for leds? This thing has got me way overwhelmed so far I've breezes thru the hole build!


No mate was just trying to understand which ports would you use. So yu are using the rgb/led led port correct? The manual says up to 3 leds can be connected there so I think you are safe mate


----------



## Trestles126

Thanks for the help that makes sense! Should I be able to hook my blue single wire ek d5 variable pump cable (has the manual dial notch on bottom 1-5) up to the rpm port and adjust speed from the a6?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> No mate was just trying to understand which ports would you use. So yu are using the rgb/led led port correct? The manual says up to 3 leds can be connected there so I think you are safe mate


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Trestles126*
> 
> Thanks for the help that makes sense! Should I be able to hook my blue single wire ek d5 variable pump cable (has the manual dial notch on bottom 1-5) up to the rpm port and adjust speed from the a6?


Most likely not mate. Is a vario pump and if memory serves I recall @IT Diva commented that the range of adjustment on it if you leave on level 5 would be very limited.


----------



## electro2u

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Trestles126*
> 
> Thanks for the help that makes sense! Should I be able to hook my blue single wire ek d5 variable pump cable (has the manual dial notch on bottom 1-5) up to the rpm port and adjust speed from the a6?


The blue wire outputs the pump rpm, control is only via the vario dial.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Trestles126*
> 
> Thanks for the help that makes sense! *Should I be able to hook my blue single wire ek d5 variable pump cable (has the manual dial notch on bottom 1-5) up to the rpm port* and adjust speed from the a6?
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> No mate was just trying to understand which ports would you use. So yu are using the rgb/led led port correct? The manual says up to 3 leds can be connected there so I think you are safe mate
Click to expand...

No . . .

You don't hook the blue wire from the pump to the RPM connector on the A6.

You'd need to hook it to one of the fan channels to monitor the pump's rpm.

The RPM connector is actually an output connector designed to cable to the mobo CPU fan header, to pass on the RPM monitored by an A6 channel to the mobo so that you don't get "CPU Fan Error" issues, or so you can use the mobo fan speed monitoring of the mobo as an emergency/pump-failure alarm or shutdown.

One of the guys here, or Shoggy will need to chime in to tell you exactly how you set which channel the RPM output connector ties to.

As far as controlling the pump's speed, that's what the little red adjuster is for . . . look closely at it, as it's set at 5 by default, not 2.

Many a young padowan has broken it by trying to turn it towards 5, thinking it was on 2.

It is possible to make an adapter cable to connect the pumps molex to a 3 pin fan connector and voltage control it with an A6 channel, but it isn't recommended as it doesn't work very well.

The D5 vario just doesn't have much range of control when you try to vary the supply voltage.

If you need to control the pump speed, other than by the adjuster on the pump, you'd need to use their D5 or a PWM D5 with the cable connector mod.

Darlene


----------



## Trestles126

Thanks you guys lots of help as always
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> No . . .
> 
> You don't hook the blue wire from the pump to the RPM connector on the A6.
> 
> You'd need to hook it to one of the fan channels to monitor the pump's rpm.
> 
> The RPM connector is actually an output connector designed to cable to the mobo CPU fan header, to pass on the RPM monitored by an A6 channel to the mobo so that you don't get "CPU Fan Error" issues, or so you can use the mobo fan speed monitoring of the mobo as an emergency/pump-failure alarm or shutdown.
> 
> One of the guys here, or Shoggy will need to chime in to tell you exactly how you set which channel the RPM output connector ties to.
> 
> As far as controlling the pump's speed, that's what the little red adjuster is for . . . look closely at it, as it's set at 5 by default, not 2.
> 
> Many a young padowan has broken it by trying to turn it towards 5, thinking it was on 2.
> 
> It is possible to make an adapter cable to connect the pumps molex to a 3 pin fan connector and voltage control it with an A6 channel, but it isn't recommended as it doesn't work very well.
> 
> The D5 vario just doesn't have much range of control when you try to vary the supply voltage.
> 
> If you need to control the pump speed, other than by the adjuster on the pump, you'd need to use their D5 or a PWM D5 with the cable connector mod.
> 
> Darlene


bks


----------



## electro2u

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Trestles126*
> 
> I am not should I for the leds? Or my 2 groups of fans? Or the 2 pin pwm ports for leds? This thing has got me way overwhelmed so far I've breezes thru the hole build!


Not sure if this would be useful but on the subject of LEDs:
I have a lot of them (like 8 strips and 7 single LEDs)... so I opted for one of these--
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/12567/bus-252/Bitspower_X-Station_LED_Power_Hub_-_Red_LED_BP-XSLEDPH-RD.html


and hooked it up to one of the Aquaero fan channels with a 4pin fan to 4pin Molex cable.


----------



## Shoggy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> One of the guys here, or Shoggy will need to chime in to tell you exactly how you set which channel the RPM output connector ties to.


The rpm output is just a static signal that can not be configured or bind to any specific real rpm value. It can be disabled in case of an alarm but that is it...


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> One of the guys here, or Shoggy will need to chime in to tell you exactly how you set which channel the RPM output connector ties to.
> 
> 
> 
> The rpm output is just a static signal that can not be configured or bind to any specific real rpm value. It can be disabled in case of an alarm but that is it...
Click to expand...

Shoggy, . . . .

Thanks for the quick reply . . .

Would you please offer a more detailed perspective of the RPM connection, what it is, does, and how to use it properly . . .

I always use dual pumps where one tach line can go to an A6 channel for monitoring, and both can get their PWM control, and the other tach line to the CPU header, so I never have used it.

I have apparently, gotten a rather poor understanding of its operation and purpose, and would like to be able to understand it better.

Thanks in advance,

Darlene


----------



## poulk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> That is a lot of stuff for an aquaero 5. What happens if you connect only two or three fans?


This setup (120x9x2 + 2x ddc 10w) work fine more then 1 year before this. I try conect 3x 120 corsair af. All work fine.


----------



## Shoggy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Would you please offer a more detailed perspective of the RPM connection, what it is, does, and how to use it properly . . .


This port (if active) always sends out a 3.500 rpm signal. The only useful function is to fake a running CPU fan and to disable this signal in case of an alarm so the PC could do something (depends on the possibilities of the BIOS).


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *poulk*
> 
> This setup (120x9x2 + 2x ddc 10w) work fine more then 1 year before this. I try conect 3x 120 corsair af. All work fine.


No idea, maybe a fan and/or pump have changed in their physical condition by time and requires more power now. Also the voltage regulator of the aquaero might be damaged.


----------



## poulk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> No idea, maybe a fan and/or pump have changed in their physical condition by time and requires more power now. Also the voltage regulator of the aquaero might be damaged.


yep me to have no idea that is happening








btw intresting thing. fans on this channel dont spin but aquasiute sho 11.9v on this channel.

if it's voltage reg. can i change it by my self?


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *poulk*
> 
> yep me to have no idea that is happening
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> btw intresting thing. fans on this channel dont spin but aquasiute sho 11.9v on this channel.
> 
> if it's voltage reg. can i change it by my self?


You can change from PWM to voltage regulated on the fan tab under advanced section if that was the question.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *poulk*
> 
> yep me to have no idea that is happening
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> btw intresting thing. fans on this channel dont spin but aquasiute sho 11.9v on this channel.
> 
> if it's voltage reg. can i change it by my self?
> 
> 
> 
> You can change from PWM to voltage regulated on the fan tab under advanced section if that was the question.
Click to expand...

I think he's asking if the problem is one of the voltage regulator IC's gone bad, can he replace it himself . . . .

The answer to which is depends on SMD skills, experience , and having a hot air rework station.

Darlene


----------



## poulk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> You can change from PWM to voltage regulated on the fan tab under advanced section if that was the question.


hehe i have aquero 5 xt about 3 years, so i know how manage it








*IT Diva*
close







lets see that shoggy say.


----------



## The Colonel

Hi Guys,
I think that all these things can like you









So let's see all the little things that I received from *Aqua Computer*, thank *Sven* for participation in my Project, 900D Monster Xtreme



but let's start right away with the big pack

 

and a nice overview

     

But we go straight to the strong piece *Aquero 6XT*

                       

The *Passive heat sink* for aquaero 6

       

and *WBs for Aquero*

        

the *Aluminum Black Frontplate* for aquaero 6 XT

     

n°4 *Aqua Computer D5 pump motor* with USB and aquabus interface

               

*Flow sensor "high flow" *

          

*Temperature sensor inline *for liquid

   

*Temperature sensor *for air



*safety system* shutdown

  

*Y Splitter for Aquabus*

 

some cables for *Aquabus connections*

 

some *fan extension*

  

*Flow Sensors Connection*

 

Let us now something you've already seen, but now we'll look at it in more detail:

the* Aquatube Aluminum Silver*

                      

and *Filter with stainless steel mesh*

             

But unmount it a bit ...

     

A final overview of these filters that I like so much


----------



## Shoggy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *poulk*
> 
> yep me to have no idea that is happening
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> btw intresting thing. fans on this channel dont spin but aquasiute sho 11.9v on this channel.
> 
> if it's voltage reg. can i change it by my self?


The voltage shown there is a real measured value by the aquaero so it means normally this channel should work correctly and the attached stuff is faulty.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *The Colonel*
> 
> Hi Guys,
> 
> I think that all these things can like you
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So let's see all the little things that I received from *Aqua Computer*, thank *Sven* for participation in my Project, 900D Monster Xtreme
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> but let's start right away with the big pack
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and a nice overview
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But we go straight to the strong piece *Aquero 6XT*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The *Passive heat sink* for aquaero 6
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and *WBs for Aquero*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> the *Aluminum Black Frontplate* for aquaero 6 XT
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> n°4 *Aqua Computer D5 pump motor* with USB and aquabus interface
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Flow sensor "high flow" *
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Temperature sensor inline *for liquid
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Temperature sensor *for air
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *safety system* shutdown
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Y Splitter for Aquabus*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> some cables for *Aquabus connections*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> some *fan extension*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Flow Sensors Connection*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Let us now something you've already seen, but now we'll look at it in more detail:
> 
> the* Aquatube Aluminum Silver*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and *Filter with stainless steel mesh*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But unmount it a bit ...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A final overview of these filters that I like so much


That's a lot of participation . . . .

You might want to start thinking about a Caselabs and nix the 900D









They are not as big on the inside as they look from the outside.

Darlene


----------



## The Colonel

Quote:
Originally Posted by *IT Diva* 


> That's a lot of participation . . . .
> 
> You might want to start thinking about a Caselabs and nix the 900D
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> They are not as big on the inside as they look from the outside.
> 
> Darlene


Hi DIVA,

you're absolutely right that's why I'm building a Super 900D









*[SPONSORED]Project: 900D Monster Xtreme*

**

*where to put all these beautiful little things







*



The 900D is the "little" part in the center


----------



## electro2u

Holy Toledo! I love it.
That looks like something Darlene would do!


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> Holy Toledo! I love it.
> That looks like something Darlene would do!


The aesthetics so far leave me totally flat, but the concept and the possibilities for design and fabrication points will have me keeping an eye on it.

Now that there is some room to work in, I'd like to see it add something unique that no one has incorporated in a build yet . . . . maybe a glass side panel between the end pillars on a track that raises vertically by remote control to allow access to the main chassis.

Now that would be something Darlene would do . . .


----------



## VSG

Speaking of things Darlene would do, I am going to get a D5 PWM to complete the Double D test. That way I got a PWM D5, DDC and the Swiftech PWM MCP50X pumps to compare. Once I put the AQ6 in the TX10, I may end up needing another one for all the testing.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Speaking of things Darlene would do, I am going to get a D5 PWM to complete the Double D test. That way I got a PWM D5, DDC and the Swiftech PWM MCP50X pumps to compare. Once I put the AQ6 in the TX10, I may end up needing another one for all the testing.


At least you have the very best bit of kit available to use a new PWM D5 with an A6 . . . . Can you use the Diva 'Dapter PCB, or is it in the build too . .

I have all 3 of my A6's in builds, so I'm sort of needing another if I plan to do more testing.

I have to admit though, when I see some of the things that claim some form of help or sponsorship from AC, it does make my head spin.

But that's a rabbit hole to go down another day.

Darlene


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> At least you have the very best bit of kit available to use a new PWM D5 with an A6 . . . . Can you use the Diva 'Dapter PCB, or is it in the build too . .


Depends on if I end up using the D5 PWM and the Corsair SP120 PWM fans in the build or not. I might be able to get 2 AQ6 Pros for <$200 (1 for testing, 1 for the other rig in the TX10) but nothing worth bragging about given the usual PPC 6-8% discounts that keep popping up.

BTW, Phanteks is sending 1 each of their new radiator optimized 120 and 140mm fans to check out. You should also ask them for a sample if you have the CFM rig set up.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> At least you have the very best bit of kit available to use a new PWM D5 with an A6 . . . . Can you use the Diva 'Dapter PCB, or is it in the build too . .
> 
> 
> 
> Depends on if I end up using the D5 PWM and the Corsair SP120 PWM fans in the build or not. I might be able to get 2 AQ6 Pros for <$200 (1 for testing, 1 for the other rig in the TX10) but nothing worth bragging about given the usual PPC 6-8% discounts that keep popping up.
> 
> BTW, Phanteks is sending 1 each of their new radiator optimized 120 and 140mm fans to check out. You should also ask them for a sample if you have the CFM rig set up.
Click to expand...

I think I've generally been wayyyy to critical for most manufacturers to want to give me anything . . .









I actually would like to get one of the Phanteks PWM to 3 pin hubs though, to see what it's really doing.

D.


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> I think I've generally been wayyyy to critical for most manufacturers to want to give me anything . . .
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I actually would like to get one of the Phanteks PWM to 3 pin hubs though, to see what it's really doing.
> 
> D.


lol I won't argue against that first statement! But do hit them up via the US website contact page and see. I'd like to see how it works also and can't think of many more who have the time/interest and skill.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> I think I've generally been wayyyy to critical for most manufacturers to want to give me anything . . .
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I actually would like to get one of the Phanteks PWM to 3 pin hubs though, to see what it's really doing.
> 
> D.


I could send you my original one from the Enthoo Primo. What about a exchange? I send you the hub and you send me an adapter for 2x d5 PWM?










EDIT- And BTW you were correct...The control over the d5 pwm using the AQ5 LT is not carved in stone...Sometimes you loose it and then regain. So it is a no go too. @Unicr0nhunter I think you might be interested in that info too.


----------



## electro2u

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> I think I've generally been wayyyy to critical for most manufacturers to want to give me anything . . .


That's sad. The Diva Seal of Approval would carry a lot of weight. A lot.


----------



## VSG

lol I still remember getting Darlene into an email conversation with Corsair about their SP120 PWM implementation and a few of her emails later the conversation died completely. They had no satisfactory answer to her questions or had no interest in continuing.


----------



## WhiteWulfe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Speaking of things Darlene would do, I am going to get a D5 PWM to complete the Double D test. That way I got a PWM D5, DDC and the Swiftech PWM MCP50X pumps to compare. Once I put the AQ6 in the TX10, I may end up needing another one for all the testing.


Ooooh, more VSG comparisons! Come to think of it, did you ever get a chance to do the whole MO-RA vs other radiators like you were thinking of?


----------



## VSG

There won't be much else coming from the D5 PWM that isn't already in the MCP50X review, I will put in a PWM response curve and noise vs PWM signal/flowrate.

I also wasn't aware I was doing Mo.Ra vs other rads









I can't see it being a fair comparison unless it is compared to other 9x rads to be honest.


----------



## XEKong

Does anyone have any idea why an MPS 400 would all of a sudden just read 0 flow. My pumps are turning, and my temps are good. When I disconnected the USB cable and powered back up, it showed up as an error, and gave it a red X over it in the menu.

I disconnected power to my system and the Aquaero software is still reading 0 flow. I am getting a temp reading from MPS1.internal.


----------



## WhiteWulfe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> There won't be much else coming from the D5 PWM that isn't already in the MCP50X review, I will put in a PWM response curve and noise vs PWM signal/flowrate.
> 
> I also wasn't aware I was doing Mo.Ra vs other rads
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I can't see it being a fair comparison unless it is compared to other 9x rads to be honest.


Ah, no worries. As for the rads it might have been restriction or maybe I'm just imagining things. Hard to say after a busy day of work!


----------



## The Colonel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> Holy Toledo! I love it.
> That looks like something Darlene would do!


Thanks Bro!

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> The aesthetics so far leave me totally flat, but the concept and the possibilities for design and fabrication points will have me keeping an eye on it.
> 
> Now that there is some room to work in, I'd like to see it add something unique that no one has incorporated in a build yet . . . . maybe a glass side panel between the end pillars on a track that raises vertically by remote control to allow access to the main chassis.
> 
> Now that would be something Darlene would do . . .


Hi Diva,

This photo is a work in progress, are still missing a double layer of plexy panels and painting, I'd love to know your opinion below with work

Thanks


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *The Colonel*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> Holy Toledo! I love it.
> 
> That looks like something Darlene would do!
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks Bro!
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> The aesthetics so far leave me totally flat, but the concept and the possibilities for design and fabrication points will have me keeping an eye on it.
> 
> Now that there is some room to work in, I'd like to see it add something unique that no one has incorporated in a build yet . . . . maybe a glass side panel between the end pillars on a track that raises vertically by remote control to allow access to the main chassis.
> 
> Now that would be something Darlene would do . . .
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Hi Diva,
> 
> This photo is a work in progress, are still missing a double layer of plexy panels and painting, I'd love to know your opinion below with work
> 
> Thanks
Click to expand...

One small picture in the early construction stage and an artist's rendering in a banner, doesn't give much info to form any opinion from other than about the overall shape and concept.

Do you have a build log?

Never mind . . . . Found it

Aesthetics is a totally subjective aspect, but good design principals and construction concepts are much more objective, and worthy of discussion.

I was always taught that the "art" part of engineering was the how you make something that was quite complex or difficult, look deceptively clean and simple to the casual observer.

Looking forward to seeing how your creation evolves,

Darlene

Quick question; Did you intend to overclock to the max, and are you using a single Lepa 1600, or 2 of them?


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *XEKong*
> 
> Does anyone have any idea why an MPS 400 would all of a sudden just read 0 flow. My pumps are turning, and my temps are good. When I disconnected the USB cable and powered back up, it showed up as an error, and gave it a red X over it in the menu.
> 
> I disconnected power to my system and the Aquaero software is still reading 0 flow. I am getting a temp reading from MPS1.internal.


The MPS meters use a sensor that outputs a raw value, converted to an unscaled value and eventually converted again to a scaled value that is the flow rate. Its possible that it has auto configured itself so that the raw value during normal flow has been set as zero flow. It can be fixed by stopping the pump so that flow is zero and pressing the "set current flow as zero" button. This is in the config page so USB must be connected.
Any time the USB is not connected Aquasuite can not talk to the sensor directly so a red x is presented on its config page.


----------



## XEKong

I know, its been working for about 7 months now. It just upped and stopped.


----------



## The Colonel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> One small picture in the early construction stage and an artist's rendering in a banner, doesn't give much info to form any opinion from other than about the overall shape and concept.
> 
> Do you have a build log?
> 
> Never mind . . . . Found it
> 
> Aesthetics is a totally subjective aspect, but good design principals and construction concepts are much more objective, and worthy of discussion.
> 
> I was always taught that the "art" part of engineering was the how you make something that was quite complex or difficult, look deceptively clean and simple to the casual observer.
> 
> Looking forward to seeing how your creation evolves,
> 
> Darlene
> 
> Quick question; Did you intend to overclock to the max, and are you using a single Lepa 1600, or 2 of them?


Thanks Diva,

Certainly I want do some Overclock Test, I'm curious to see how the system reacts to stress by having 5 Monsta 560 for dissipation







, but this is not the main goal.

I'll use 2 LEPA G-1600, to spread the load and because Enermax and Lepa are one of my main sponsors









Follow me

http://www.overclock.net/t/1496783/sponsored-project-900d-monster-xtreme
https://www.facebook.com/hannibal.smith.35977


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *XEKong*
> 
> I know, its been working for about 7 months now. It just upped and stopped.


perhaps try a different usb port on the MB? Turn everything off and plug the PSU of the wall too. Then re-plug everything and turn the system on. If still a no go you might try to conenct via aquabus to see if the device shows up. Other alternative is try in a different pc (just the usb connection) to see if shows up. If still a no go I am afraid you have to contact Aquacomputer.


----------



## Luca T

Hi guys, every component arrived, just few question before assembling:

I have 2 Aquacomputer D5 pumps, which is the best way to connect them to the Aquaero?

Both pumps with Usb and Aquabus?
And what about "alarm" and "temp"?

Thanks guys


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Luca T*
> 
> Hi guys, every component arrived, just few question before assembling:
> 
> I have 2 Aquacomputer D5 pumps, which is the best way to connect them to the Aquaero?
> 
> Both pumps with Usb and Aquabus?
> And what about "alarm" and "temp"?
> 
> Thanks guys


You can even have both connected. USb to MB and aquabus to aquaero. Then once you are on the Aquasuite you can change priority to USB or Aquabus. USB can give you rpm signal while so far as I recall Aquabus do not. But Aquabus will alow a connection direct to Aquaero which can be useful if you want to access info in the lcd without using the Aquasuite.


----------



## XEKong

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> perhaps try a different usb port on the MB? Turn everything off and plug the PSU of the wall too. Then re-plug everything and turn the system on. If still a no go you might try to conenct via aquabus to see if the device shows up. Other alternative is try in a different pc (just the usb connection) to see if shows up. If still a no go I am afraid you have to contact Aquacomputer.


It's a no go. It does show up on the USB, at the temp. It's just reading 0 flow.

I think this weekend, I am going to drain and tear down my loop, and turn my rad around, flush out the D5's, and block. I want to delid my 3770K while I have everything apart. I might not put the flow meter back in-line. I need to take out, 4 of my temp sensors and just leave a single one for fluid temp, and one for an ambient reading and call it a day. I need to uncomplicate my rig, such as all the braided power cable extensions and just get back to basics.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *XEKong*
> 
> It's a no go. It does show up on the USB, at the temp. It's just reading 0 flow.
> 
> I think this weekend, I am going to drain and tear down my loop, and turn my rad around, flush out the D5's, and block. I want to delid my 3770K while I have everything apart. I might not put the flow meter back in-line. I need to take out, 4 of my temp sensors and just leave a single one for fluid temp, and one for an ambient reading and call it a day. I need to uncomplicate my rig, such as all the braided power cable extensions and just get back to basics.


if you do that. Try to test the flow meter outside the pc in a test loop. good luck.


----------



## XEKong

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> if you do that. Try to test the flow meter outside the pc in a test loop. good luck.


Will do.


----------



## Luca T

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> You can even have both connected. USb to MB and aquabus to aquaero. Then once you are on the Aquasuite you can change priority to USB or Aquabus. USB can give you rpm signal while so far as I recall Aquabus do not. But Aquabus will alow a connection direct to Aquaero which can be useful if you want to access info in the lcd without using the Aquasuite.


Thank's,

At present I have only one Aquabus cable, I will use on the first pump waiting for the second cable fo the second pump

And what about the alarm connection and the temp connection on pumps?


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Luca T*
> 
> Thank's,
> 
> At present I have only one Aquabus cable, I will use on the first pump waiting for the second cable fo the second pump
> 
> And what about the alarm connection and the temp connection on pumps?


not only you will need another Aquabus cable but also a Y to connect both pumps to the Aquabus (high port). You can not connect the pump to the Aquabus low. But just so you might take a informed decision: connecting both pumps via USB would work just fine and you could create your own custom control page under Aquasuite that way with devices and fans connected to Aquaero as well as to the USB in the MB.

this Y:

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/19439/bus-345/Aquacomputer_Aquabus_4-Pin_Y_Splitter_Cable_53124.html?id=ouNPFdhZ&mv_pc=842










temps you can connect the 4 provided temp probes in your case. They are "external" in the sense they are not to go under water. There are 6 other ports to temp probes (including if you want water probes). The alarm is better if you read Nanrom guide (see the first post of the thread for a link to it at specialtech) or the manual since I never used that


----------



## Luca T

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> not only you will need another Aquabus cable but also a Y to connect both pumps to the Aquabus (high port). You can not connect the pump to the Aquabus low. But just so you might take a informed decision: connecting both pumps via USB would work just fine and you could create your own custom control page under Aquasuite that way with devices and fans connected to Aquaero as well as to the USB in the MB.
> 
> this Y:
> 
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/19439/bus-345/Aquacomputer_Aquabus_4-Pin_Y_Splitter_Cable_53124.html?id=ouNPFdhZ&mv_pc=842
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> temps you can connect the 4 provided temp probes in your case. They are "external" in the sense they are not to go under water. There are 6 other ports to temp probes (including if you want water probes). The alarm is better if you read Nanrom guide (see the first post of the thread for a link to it at specialtech) or the manual since I never used that


But Do I need to connect Aquaero usb to MB and both pumps usb to MB?

About alam and temp connection I meant on the pump, should i connect that to Aquaero?


----------



## Gabrielzm

Yes, if you are connecting the pumps via usb you will need 1 1/2 USB ports available in the MB. All 3 should be connected via usb. Unless, of course, you connect both pumps to the Aquaero via Aquabus.


----------



## Luca T

I forgot even the aquacomputer reservoir has a fill sensor and has USB, aquabus, alam and temp connection how should I connect them?

I'm sorry of so many questions but there are too many connections


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Luca T*
> 
> I forgot even the aquacomputer reservoir has a fill sensor and has USB, aquabus, alam and temp connection how should I connect them?
> 
> I'm sorry of so many questions but there are too many connections


fill sensor to usb too. the temp is yet another port you can use to temp probes.

edit- so if you go usb route you will need 2 full usb 2 ports available in the MB. One will have aquaero/fill sensor the other 2x usb d5


----------



## Luca T

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> fill sensor to usb too. the temp is yet another port you can use to temp probes.


So I would need of 4 usb connection on the MB









I don't know if The RampageV has so many

About temp connection I thought was to connect direectly to Aquaero not for the probe


----------



## Gabrielzm

^^ see above my edit...The usb cables from the Aquacomputer devices only use half the pins on the usb ports of the MB.


----------



## Luca T

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> ^^ see above my edit...The usb cables from the Aquacomputer devices only use half the pins on the usb ports of the MB.


Ops!









Then it should be perfect









Thank's a lot


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Luca T*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> ^^ see above my edit...The usb cables from the Aquacomputer devices only use half the pins on the usb ports of the MB.
> 
> 
> 
> Ops!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then it should be perfect
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thank's a lot
Click to expand...

You can use one of these to help solve the USB port shortage issues, they make the Aquaero bits connections much easier and handy:

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/10198/usb-07/NZXT_IU01_Internal_USB_Expansion_Power_Supplement_Board.html

Darlene


----------



## Luca T

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> You can use one of these to help solve the USB port shortage issues, they make the Aquaero bits connections much easier and handy:
> 
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/10198/usb-07/NZXT_IU01_Internal_USB_Expansion_Power_Supplement_Board.html
> 
> Darlene


Good thing, but how does it work? Does it split one of the MB internal's Usb?


----------



## Luca T

On Aquacomputer D5 pumps I have a 3pin "alarm", where should I connect it on the Aquaero?


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Luca T*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> You can use one of these to help solve the USB port shortage issues, they make the Aquaero bits connections much easier and handy:
> 
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/10198/usb-07/NZXT_IU01_Internal_USB_Expansion_Power_Supplement_Board.html
> 
> Darlene
> 
> 
> 
> Good thing, but how does it work? Does it split one of the MB internal's Usb?
Click to expand...

Yes,

Think of it as a USB hub that you mount internally.

It has a connection to the PSU for 12V, but it would probably be easier to get the 12V from an unused mobo fan header and save the hassle of another molex.


----------



## aaroc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> You can use one of these to help solve the USB port shortage issues, they make the Aquaero bits connections much easier and handy:
> 
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/10198/usb-07/NZXT_IU01_Internal_USB_Expansion_Power_Supplement_Board.html
> 
> Darlene


Very good recommendation, I use one on my computer. Working solid over a year.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Luca T*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> not only you will need another Aquabus cable but also a Y to connect both pumps to the Aquabus (high port). You can not connect the pump to the Aquabus low. But just so you might take a informed decision: connecting both pumps via USB would work just fine and you could create your own custom control page under Aquasuite that way with devices and fans connected to Aquaero as well as to the USB in the MB.
> 
> this Y:
> 
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/19439/bus-345/Aquacomputer_Aquabus_4-Pin_Y_Splitter_Cable_53124.html?id=ouNPFdhZ&mv_pc=842
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> temps you can connect the 4 provided temp probes in your case. They are "external" in the sense they are not to go under water. There are 6 other ports to temp probes (including if you want water probes). The alarm is better if you read Nanrom guide (see the first post of the thread for a link to it at specialtech) or the manual since I never used that
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But Do I need to connect Aquaero usb to MB and both pumps usb to MB?
> 
> About alam and temp connection I meant on the pump, should i connect that to Aquaero?
Click to expand...

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Yes, if you are connecting the pumps via usb you will need 1 1/2 USB ports available in the MB. All 3 should be connected via usb. Unless, of course, you connect both pumps to the Aquaero via Aquabus.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Luca T*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> ^^ see above my edit...The usb cables from the Aquacomputer devices only use half the pins on the usb ports of the MB.
> 
> 
> 
> Ops!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then it should be perfect
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thank's a lot
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> You can use one of these to help solve the USB port shortage issues, they make the Aquaero bits connections much easier and handy:
> 
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/10198/usb-07/NZXT_IU01_Internal_USB_Expansion_Power_Supplement_Board.html
> 
> Darlene
Click to expand...

yep i was going to recommend it


----------



## electro2u




----------



## Luca T

The Aquabus cable given with devices is a 3-pin cable, but on the Aquaero the Aquabus-plug is a 4-pin!

Should I use that 3-pin cable? Or do I have to buy a 4-pin cable?

Why all Aquabus plug on devices are 4-pin but then there is a 3-pin cable in the box?


----------



## electro2u

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Luca T*
> 
> The Aquabus cable given with devices is a 3-pin cable, but on the Aquaero the Aquabus-plug is a 4-pin!
> 
> Should I use that 3-pin cable? Or do I have to buy a 4-pin cable?
> 
> Why all Aquabus plug on devices are 4-pin but then there is a 3-pin cable in the box?


You can absolutely use the 3-pin cable on the 4-pin Aquabus ports. In fact, the aquabus cable is just a standard 3-pin fan cable.
I could be mistaken but I think the reason there are 4 pins on the aquabus ports is to allow for the ability to run multiple aquabus devices off a single 4-pin Y-splitter cable. Hope this helps.


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Luca T*
> 
> The Aquabus cable given with devices is a 3-pin cable, but on the Aquaero the Aquabus-plug is a 4-pin!
> 
> Should I use that 3-pin cable? Or do I have to buy a 4-pin cable?
> 
> Why all Aquabus plug on devices are 4-pin but then there is a 3-pin cable in the box?


This gets mentioned all the time but, 3 pin aquabus is for using with usb cables at the same time or if the device has it's own power connection. 4 bin aquabus just adds 5v power that you lose when usb is not connected.

Personally I just use 4 pin cables for everything whether I use usb or not just to make everything easier. Apart from on poweradjusts but the 3 pin cables work just fine with the splitters too.

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/23519/ele-1299/4-Pin_PWM_Power_Distribution_PCB_4x_Way_Block_MMT-PCB-4P-44P.html?tl=g47c17s424
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/23516/cab-1947/ModMyToys_4-Pin_PWM_Female_to_4-Pin_PWM_Female_Cable_Adapter_-_24_-_Sleeved_Black_MMT-FC-44-24BKS.html


----------



## supermiguel

For this flow meter: http://www.frozencpu.com/products/13694/bus-270/Aquacomputer_G14_Flow_Meter_Sensor_Block_-_Aquaero_Series_Poweradjust_Fan-O-Matic_Pro_Alphacool_Heatmaster_53068.html?tl=c229s582b200

Where do i set the calibration to 169 pulses per liter ?? whats the default one?


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *supermiguel*
> 
> For this flow meter: http://www.frozencpu.com/products/13694/bus-270/Aquacomputer_G14_Flow_Meter_Sensor_Block_-_Aquaero_Series_Poweradjust_Fan-O-Matic_Pro_Alphacool_Heatmaster_53068.html?tl=c229s582b200
> 
> Where do i set the calibration to 169 pulses per liter ?? whats the default one?


If I recall correctly the default is 169. I am not in front of my pc with it right now but you can go to the config page of the device in Aquasuite and you will see there the number.

you can find that info too here along with a discussion of different value for different tube sizes:

http://martinsliquidlab.org/2012/01/21/aquacomputer-water-high-flow-sensor-meter/


----------



## tCoLL

Really loving my Aquaero, it really is top of the line. I finally ordered the 2 pin PWM plugs today so I can install my LED strips. Going to try to complete my build log this weekend.

One question, my boot time increased dramatically after installing aquasuite and AIDA64. I was booting in 4 secs and that shot up to 34 secs. After eliminating a lot of processes I got it down the 17 secs, but I was spoiled by those initial quick boot times. Any way to reduce? AIDA64 is a very powerful program, but I don't really need all the features it offers. Will disabling the aquasuite desktop monitoring speed things up? It seems to be the last thing to load when my computer boots up.


----------



## supermiguel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> If I recall correctly the default is 169. I am not in front of my pc with it right now but you can go to the config page of the device in Aquasuite and you will see there the number.
> 
> you can find that info too here along with a discussion of different value for different tube sizes:
> 
> http://martinsliquidlab.org/2012/01/21/aquacomputer-water-high-flow-sensor-meter/


So since im using 1/2" i should set it at 158?


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *supermiguel*
> 
> So since im using 1/2" i should set it at 158?


_"I would suggest a calibration somewhere between the two using 158 for 10-11mm ID barbs and 1/2″ ID tubing and 169 for smaller barbs and tubing."_ http://martinsliquidlab.org/2012/01/21/aquacomputer-water-high-flow-sensor-meter/

yep it looks like from the last page. But pay attention to ID. Is your tube ID 1/2? or the OD? Sorry to point this but just to avoid any mistake...


----------



## supermiguel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> _"I would suggest a calibration somewhere between the two using 158 for 10-11mm ID barbs and 1/2″ ID tubing and 169 for smaller barbs and tubing."_ http://martinsliquidlab.org/2012/01/21/aquacomputer-water-high-flow-sensor-meter/
> 
> yep it looks like from the last page. But pay attention to ID. Is your tube ID 1/2? or the OD? Sorry to point this but just to avoid any mistake...


1/2in. ID X 3/4in. OD


----------



## Gabrielzm

Yep, then 158 seems to be the value for your loop according to Martin tests.


----------



## VSG

I have it set at 158 myself but need to see if something like 161-162 would be better given it's not all 1/2" x 3/4" here and there are some extenders/adapters also. Flow rates were very close to rotameter readouts though.


----------



## supermiguel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Yep, then 158 seems to be the value for your loop according to Martin tests.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> I have it set at 158 myself but need to see if something like 161-162 would be better given it's not all 1/2" x 3/4" here and there are some extenders/adapters also. Flow rates were very close to rotameter readouts though.


Thanks guys

geggeg what numbers are you getting flow wise?


----------



## VSG

I am taking my sweet time with the build, pairing up pumps, rads and fans accordingly into 3 separate loops. But I won't have 10 rads in a single loop lol so it won't be too bad.


----------



## supermiguel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> I am taking my sweet time with the build, pairing up pumps, rads and fans accordingly into 3 separate loops. But I won't have 10 rads in a single loop lol so it won't be too bad.


lol


----------



## Party3an

false
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Luca T*
> 
> The Aquabus cable given with devices is a 3-pin cable, but on the Aquaero the Aquabus-plug is a 4-pin!
> 
> Should I use that 3-pin cable? Or do I have to buy a 4-pin cable?
> 
> Why all Aquabus plug on devices are 4-pin but then there is a 3-pin cable in the box?


This is RPM cable. To connect to a CPU fan connector. That gives to your MB info that there is a fan connected and it spinning at 3500 RPM.

This is for an alarm function. You can setup that Aquaero on overheat will disable that rpm signal. And your MB will shut down the PC by thinking there is no spinning CPU fan.

All the aqua buss cables you have to buy separate. Even 3 pin cable for High Flow meter you have to purchase separate.

Best Regards


----------



## tCoLL

Can someone break down PID for me? I'm having a hard time understanding it, I read quite a bit on the aquacomputer forums and the wikipedia article. My Ambient - hot water delta at idle is about 6c and I've created a decent ramp up curve by P=200 I=50. I understand D is not very useful for this function. However this slow ramp up means it also ramps down very slowly. My delta is reaching 4c before the fans go back to idling speeds. I guess what I'm looking for is a slow ramp up, and a quicker ramp down. My fans always hit 100% once my delta is around 10 degrees.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tCoLL*
> 
> Can someone break down PID for me? I'm having a hard time understanding it, I read quite a bit on the aquacomputer forums and the wikipedia article. My Ambient - hot water delta at idle is about 6c and I've created a decent ramp up curve by P=200 I=50. I understand D is not very useful for this function. However this slow ramp up means it also ramps down very slowly. My delta is reaching 4c before the fans go back to idling speeds. I guess what I'm looking for is a slow ramp up, and a quicker ramp down. My fans always hit 100% once my delta is around 10 degrees.


Not sure breaking down PID will help and the wiki article is quite good (and of course that task is beyond my capability so







). But I can show you what I have:





So, you can see that besides the almost straight line up you also have control of noise / rpm defining the limits for your fans on the fan settings tab. That way you can set minimum and maximum values. Don't mind the scale on X. In my case my delta is usually between 1 and 5 degrees. So, despite the controller saying go to 100% since you define your fans maximum at 80% that would be the maximum the controller would attain. Playing with both (controller x fan settings) you can find your sweet spot quite easily. About having different curves to ramp up and down I am not sure you can attain that on the Aquaero (at least not that I am aware of).

hope it helps


----------



## tCoLL

Yea I've been using the minimum power to keep my fans spinning at all times. How much rad space do you have that you maintain 1-5c delta?? I heard PID is the best method of control once it's fine tuned, but it's a little over my head. Guess I'll stick with a curve controller for now. At 85% (max) fan speed I'm able to maintain <12c delta running P95. I feel like my CPU is still too toasty though, hovering at 85c with delta at 10.6c...


----------



## Gabrielzm

Originally I have 420mm, 280mm, and 2x 240 mm for 3 blocks (1 cpu and 2 gpus). Now I have 420+280 just for the cpu. The enthoo primo can pack quite a punch.









Moving my PC to a SMA8 case and the Primo is going to office.


----------



## tCoLL

Oh yea I did a dual xenon build in a primo for a buddy of mine. Pretty solid case. No WC for him though









I'm in a Luxe now, I prefer full towers. Managed to get a 420 and a 120 in it at least, needed some of my drive cages.


----------



## Luca T

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> You can use one of these to help solve the USB port shortage issues, they make the Aquaero bits connections much easier and handy:
> 
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/10198/usb-07/NZXT_IU01_Internal_USB_Expansion_Power_Supplement_Board.html
> 
> Darlene


About this device It gives 3 internal USB is it correct?

I have 2 D5pumps, 1 flow-meter and 1 fill-meter total I need 4usb

The Rampage V has 1 internal USB 2.0 and 2 internal USB 3.0

If I use this device I connect the device to the internal USB 2.0 of the RampageV so I have 3 USB, but needing of 4 should I use two of this devices?


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Luca T*
> 
> About this device It gives 3 internal USB is it correct?
> 
> I have 2 D5pumps, 1 flow-meter and 1 fill-meter total I need 4usb
> 
> The Rampage V has 1 internal USB 2.0 and 2 internal USB 3.0
> 
> If I use this device I connect the device to the internal USB 2.0 of the RampageV so I have 3 USB, but needing of 4 should I use two of this devices?


you will have 3 USB 2 in the end correct. But with 3x USB 2 ports you can connect up to 6 of these aquacomputer gear. As I said already, each one uses only half a USB 2 full port. So you will only need two USB 2 ports from NZXT hub giving you still one full USB 2 port free (besides the 2 external ones on the nzxt).









If you add your aquaero that would make the count 5 Aquacomputer stuff going to USB...You would still have room for one more


----------



## Luca T

Ordered!


----------



## Squeaks5635

Got my AE 6 XT today from FrozenCPU I can confirm it is the updated version with the 470 resistors.

Thanks again for the info.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Squeaks5635*
> 
> Got my AE 6 XT today from FrozenCPU I can confirm it is the updated version with the 470 resistors.
> 
> Thanks again for the info.


great







and welcome to the club


----------



## Luca T

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Squeaks5635*
> 
> Got my AE 6 XT today from FrozenCPU I can confirm it is the updated version with the 470 resistors.
> 
> Thanks again for the info.


What does it means "with 470 resistors"?

How can I verify if mine is the updated version? It arrived two days ago from aquatuning in Europe


----------



## Squeaks5635

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Luca T*
> 
> What does it means "with 470 resistors"?
> 
> How can I verify if mine is the updated version? It arrived two days ago from aquatuning in Europe


Check this out. It is what I used.

http://www.overclock.net/t/1474470/ocn-aquaero-owners-club/620#post_22271863


----------



## Shoggy

Aww man... that resistor thing has already become something like a fairy tale. The "old" devices are not on sale anymore since April and at least our stock has been rotated several times in the meantime.

Funny side note: this forum here is the only place were people even know about the resistor thing and also the only place where this question comes up again and again since people also mention it again and again even though this information is almost outdated. I guess this is the way how myths are born


----------



## electro2u

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> I guess this is the way how myths are born


And how Shoggy became a living LEGEND.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> Aww man... that resistor thing has already become something like a fairy tale. The "old" devices are not on sale anymore since April and at least our stock has been rotated several times in the meantime.
> 
> Funny side note: this forum here is the only place were people even know about the resistor thing and also the only place where this question comes up again and again since people also mention it again and again even though this information is almost outdated. I guess this is the way how myths are born


Not every outlet rotates stock as fast as you guys, and not everyone buys their A6 brand new from a large volume etailer.

There could easily be original versions in the private market place as those who bought early and already had the dreaded Corsair fans bought new versions to handle them.

Generally speaking though, it is, as you say, an issue pretty much put to bed at this point . . . . .

Partially from the "fix", but also in large part, because the warning about the PWM Corsair fans is now so generally known.

Darlene


----------



## Luca T

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Squeaks5635*
> 
> Check this out. It is what I used.
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1474470/ocn-aquaero-owners-club/620#post_22271863


Thanks a lot!

Checked, 470


----------



## Eagle1911

3-pin fans cant be controlled by A6 right? I find my Redux fans (1200) too loud.. are there any workarounds? Otherwise need to get 4-pin fans.


----------



## Luca T

Can I connect the mps temp measurement to the "temp" connection under the Aqualis?
Or Should I connect it directly to the Aquaero?


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Eagle1911*
> 
> 3-pin fans cant be controlled by A6 right? I find my Redux fans (1200) too loud.. are there any workarounds? Otherwise need to get 4-pin fans.


Page one of this thread. The A6 works with 3 pin and PWM devices.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Luca T*
> 
> Can I connect the mps temp measurement to the "temp" connection under the Aqualis?
> Or Should I connect it directly to the Aquaero?


The temp connections on all mps devices are only for attaching sensors to, the same as the 8 on the Aquaero.


----------



## Luca T

Sorry I meant the mps temp sensor to the aqualis


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Eagle1911*
> 
> 3-pin fans cant be controlled by A6 right? I find my Redux fans (1200) too loud.. are there any workarounds? Otherwise need to get 4-pin fans.


Aquaero 6 controlling forty 3-pin fans and 2 D5 pumps ...


----------



## Trestles126

just booted my pc up and installed windows for the first time...first pc in 12 years... suprised shes running like a dream! I have my aquasuite installed and the usb cord hooked up. will the aquaero 6 display cpu temps and gpu temps? i notice the aquaero cpu temp displayed is that my processor temp? pretty elated everything is working.


----------



## ForNever

No, that is the actual Aquaero's CPU temp. You can set it to display virtually any temp you want via hardware sensors, which are actual physical leads, or software sensors from programs like AIDA64, or OpenHardwareMonitor. It'll take some playing with to get your Aquaero doing exactly what you want, but you made a great investment. These things are amazing.


----------



## Eagle1911

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Aquaero 6 controlling forty 3-pin fans and 2 D5 pumps ...


I meant controlling RPM of non-PWM 3-pin fans.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Eagle1911*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Aquaero 6 controlling forty 3-pin fans and 2 D5 pumps ...
> 
> 
> 
> I meant controlling RPM of non-PWM 3-pin fans.
Click to expand...

Umm, yeah. That's what a fan controller is for. If you didn't want to control fan rpm then you could just hook the fans straight up to the power supply.

The Aquaero 6 allows you to select to voltage control 3 pin fan speeds or pwm control 4 pin fan speeds on any of its 4 channels. The Aquaero 5 can voltage control 3 pins fans on it's 4 channels or has the option on one of its channels to instead pwm control 4 pin fans. Either way, voltage or pwm, you can manually set the fan speeds on each channel or set up a channel to automatically adjust fan speeds based on temp sensor readings, etc.


----------



## Trestles126

noticed that even though i have 2 corsair sp120 fans into a y splitter into the first 2 fan ports on my a6 so four fans total only the first group of fans shows rpms? i can still control the voltage but no RPM displayed. I think i remember seeing that this was common for the corsair fans but thought there was a fix


----------



## Trestles126

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ForNever*
> 
> No, that is the actual Aquaero's CPU temp. You can set it to display virtually any temp you want via hardware sensors, which are actual physical leads, or software sensors from programs like AIDA64, or OpenHardwareMonitor. It'll take some playing with to get your Aquaero doing exactly what you want, but you made a great investment. These things are amazing.


also just downloaded aida64 any quick tips to get some virtual readings from this app?


----------



## Luca T

I tried to change the frontplate on the Aquaero6, but the silver frontplate seems to be sticked on, like with some glue or similar!?


----------



## Trestles126

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Luca T*
> 
> I tried to change the frontplate on the Aquaero6, but the silver frontplate seems to be sticked on, like with some glue or similar!?


yes a tad bit of heat like the wifes blow dryer and a thin instrument like a razorblade to get a edge up just be carefull take ur time. i was nervous. then when u put the new one on make sure u press and hold firmly for a bit to make sure it re adhears to the stickiness! because if u dont when u intall it the faceplate will bow up in the middle.


----------



## VSG

That's right, use a sharp surface like an exacto knife to slowly pry it out. The remaining glue should be enough for the black plate also.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Trestles126*
> 
> noticed that even though i have 2 corsair sp120 fans into a y splitter into the first 2 fan ports on my a6 so four fans total only the first group of fans shows rpms? i can still control the voltage but no RPM displayed. I think i remember seeing that this was common for the corsair fans but thought there was a fix


Look at your splitter and check if only one of the terminals have 3 pins. If all terminals have 3 pin then the rpm will not be displayed since all of the fans are sending the signal (the same goes for PWM fans but now instead of 3 there are 4 pins and only one header should have it the full 4).


----------



## Luca T

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Trestles126*
> 
> yes a tad bit of heat like the wifes blow dryer and a thin instrument like a razorblade to get a edge up just be carefull take ur time. i was nervous. then when u put the new one on make sure u press and hold firmly for a bit to make sure it re adhears to the stickiness! because if u dont when u intall it the faceplate will bow up in the middle.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> That's right, use a sharp surface like an exacto knife to slowly pry it out. The remaining glue should be enough for the black plate also.


Thanks guys, I hoped there could be an easier way!


----------



## Trestles126

ok so im trying to get my cpu and gpu read outs from AIDa64 extreme. i read everywhere totally possible but no where shows how to do it really. Ive initated both at start up. ive gone into Aida64s preferences and clicked on enable aquaero 6 from the hardware preferences. nothing i can see changes. im not sure that in the aquasuite i should be able to add a software sensor form the sensors tab. only thing i can see that may be a issue is the settings tab under aquasuite has the yellow box saying restart aquasuite with administrators rights? even though it starts at startup. is this where my problem lies?


----------



## ForNever

Dang, sorry Trest I haven't been keeping up on forums. With the Sensors tab open, click on software sensors and you'll see generic sensors 1 - 8. Highlight Sensor 1, then to the right click "mode" and enable it. You should see the sensor's output now on the window to the left where all the software sensors are. Does this part work, at least?


----------



## Trestles126

Just the fallback temp of 50


----------



## Trestles126

Nothing just the fall back temp of 50 gotta be something I'm doing wrong
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ForNever*
> 
> Dang, sorry Trest I haven't been keeping up on forums. With the Sensors tab open, click on software sensors and you'll see generic sensors 1 - 8. Highlight Sensor 1, then to the right click "mode" and enable it. You should see the sensor's output now on the window to the left where all the software sensors are. Does this part work, at least?


----------



## ForNever

Try OpenHardwareMonitor when you get a chance and see if that one will at least give you a temp. It's what I'm using ATM and I had zero issues getting it going. I've never messed with Aida64 unfortunately.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Trestles126*
> 
> Nothing just the fall back temp of 50 gotta be something I'm doing wrong


Here is a picture of HWinfo enable cpu core on aquaero. It might give you a hint of what is missing. If none then try HWinfo64 is free and work quite well.



don't forget to go select data source and check the box use sensor with aqua computer service".


----------



## Trestles126

Thanks guys I will try those! I get no devices when I go to Select with the aida64
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ForNever*
> 
> Try OpenHardwareMonitor when you get a chance and see if that one will at least give you a temp. It's what I'm using ATM and I had zero issues getting it going. I've never messed with Aida64 unfortunately.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Here is a picture of HWinfo enable cpu core on aquaero. It might give you a hint of what is missing. If none then try HWinfo64 is free and work quite well.
> 
> 
> 
> don't forget to go select data source and check the box use sensor with aqua computer service".


Just the fallback temp of 50


----------



## Trestles126

I mean no data source
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Trestles126*
> 
> Thanks guys I will try those! I get no devices when I go to Select with the aida64
> 
> Just the fallback temp of 50


----------



## Wolfsbora

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Trestles126*
> 
> I mean no data source


You have to enable all of these under preferences in AIDA64.

Preferences > Hardware Monitoring > Check all of the boxes as shown (you probably won't need all of them but it won't hurt anything) > Scroll down to find 'Temperatures' and check all applicable boxes there too.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Trestles126*
> 
> I mean no data source


got you. Are you willing to try HWinfo64? Is a great program. try it and see if something shows up in the data source. I bet is some sort of bug talk between aquasuite and aida...I recall another user having the same problem a couple of months ago.


----------



## Wolfsbora

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> got you. Are you willing to try HWinfo64? Is a great program. try it and see if something shows up in the data source. I bet is some sort of bug talk between aquasuite and aida...I recall another user having the same problem a couple of months ago.


That was probably me... I still haven't resolved it. Shoggy gave me some instructions to try but still haven't done it.


----------



## SylvanicMunk

Subbed.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wolfsbora*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Trestles126*
> 
> I mean no data source
> 
> 
> 
> You have to enable all of these under preferences in AIDA64.
> 
> Preferences > Hardware Monitoring > Check all of the boxes as shown (you probably won't need all of them but it won't hurt anything) > Scroll down to find 'Temperatures' and check all applicable boxes there too.
Click to expand...

Only need to check the ones you want to monitor with the aq.


----------



## tCoLL

Having issues with channel 1 of my fans. Moving the min/max power slider does nothing. I moved the fans to channel 4, and then channel 4 behaved the same, but channel 1 was showing voltage adjustments etc when I moved those sliders (empty) I moved the fans back to channel 1, and I got a brief spin up, and then nothing...it's especially weird because they've been running fine, I noticed today that they weren't spinning. Faulty unit?

edit - I've tried resetting factory defaults, as well as stopping/uninstalling/reinstalling/starting the service. Same issues...channels 2+3 seem to be working just dandy. 4 is unused.

edit 2 - reinstalling firmware seemed to clear things up. But when I reimport my settings, the issue comes up again. Only fix is to reinstall firmware again. Looks like I'll be recreating all my settings tonight







Corrupt settings file or something? Although I wasn't using a saved settings file before this happened, I just backed up my settings before I started resetting everything.


----------



## Luca T

Hi guys, I set all the liquid system and filled it, I connected the two D5 pumps to the Aquaero with Aquabus, Can I set them and reduce the speed without OS installed?

Or to do that Do I have to install OS and Aquasuite?


----------



## Wolfsbora

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Luca T*
> 
> Hi guys, I set all the liquid system and filled it, I connected the two D5 pumps to the Aquaero with Aquabus, Can I set them and reduce the speed without OS installed?
> 
> Or to do that Do I have to install OS and Aquasuite?


If your Aquaero does not have a screen then you will need Aquasuite. However, even if you do have a screen, Aquasuite is much easier to navigate and configure.


----------



## Luca T

I have a screen, it'Aquaero6-XT, what I mean is can I regalate the pumps speed withouth computer and OS?


----------



## Trestles126

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wolfsbora*
> 
> You have to enable all of these under preferences in AIDA64.
> 
> Preferences > Hardware Monitoring > Check all of the boxes as shown (you probably won't need all of them but it won't hurt anything) > Scroll down to find 'Temperatures' and check all applicable boxes there too.


cool thanks man that works but now with aid64 clicked on my aquasuite im getting a temp reading of 10c? hum maybe i will just try openhardware monitor i just want to find my CPU and GPU temp and display them on my A6


----------



## Trestles126

and thats because the fall back temp was 10c


----------



## Trestles126

NM NM NM i got it to work with Openhardware monitor and probaby was the same dumb mistake on AID64 had to click on the lil arrow next to the data souce and scroll through the list of items! sweet now the options are endless thanks for the help!


----------



## valvehead

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Luca T*
> 
> Hi guys, I set all the liquid system and filled it, I connected the two D5 pumps to the Aquaero with Aquabus, Can I set them and reduce the speed without OS installed?
> 
> Or to do that Do I have to install OS and Aquasuite?


I'm pretty sure that both pumps will have the same Aquabus address by default. You will need to change the address of one of the pumps otherwise there will be a conflict. AFAIK the only way to change the address is in Aquasuite.



After you have assigned unique addresses and changed the priority to Aquabus for both pumps, then they can be controlled directly by the Aquaero. You can set up the control in either Aquasuite or directly in the Aquaero.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *valvehead*
> 
> I'm pretty sure that both pumps will have the same Aquabus address by default. You will need to change the address of one of the pumps otherwise there will be a conflict. AFAIK the only way to change the address is in Aquasuite.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After you have assigned unique addresses and changed the priority to Aquabus for both pumps, then they can be controlled directly by the Aquaero. You can set up the control in either Aquasuite or directly in the Aquaero.


Yeah and to do that I believe you have to connect them via USB first. Here's shoggy explaining it:
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> That is OK but make sure that you change the aquabus ID number of one pump so they do not use the same. This can be only done when it is connected via USB. The ID can be changed in the system tab of the pump.


----------



## Luca T

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *valvehead*
> 
> I'm pretty sure that both pumps will have the same Aquabus address by default. You will need to change the address of one of the pumps otherwise there will be a conflict. AFAIK the only way to change the address is in Aquasuite.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After you have assigned unique addresses and changed the priority to Aquabus for both pumps, then they can be controlled directly by the Aquaero. You can set up the control in either Aquasuite or directly in the Aquaero.


Ok, but yo do that way I need Aquasuite so I need OS installed!


----------



## Wolfsbora

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Trestles126*
> 
> NM NM NM i got it to work with Openhardware monitor and probaby was the same dumb mistake on AID64 had to click on the lil arrow next to the data souce and scroll through the list of items! sweet now the options are endless thanks for the help!


Good to hear!


----------



## Trestles126

OH MAN is this thing sweet! getting the hang of it. got curve controllers set up for my cpu temps to get my fans working properly as well as my LEDs get brighter as the temps get hotter! This thing is Saweet!


----------



## Luca T

I installed the internal USB-hub and connected all devices but now it shows the device is not recognized and not installed correctly!


----------



## Trestles126

Sure the wire colors match the MoBo inlet? With the last black on the non prong side of the 4 out of 5 pins 5th being no pin on mobo end
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Luca T*
> 
> I installed the internal USB-hub and connected all devices but now it shows the device is not recognized and not installed correctly!


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Luca T*
> 
> I installed the internal USB-hub and connected all devices but now it shows the device is not recognized and not installed correctly!


Did you make sure the hub has 12V power?


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Luca T*
> 
> I installed the internal USB-hub and connected all devices but now it shows the device is not recognized and not installed correctly!


Have you installed the nzxt properly? Have you connect the correct port from the hub into a proper port on the mb? Did you check pin assignment?


----------



## apw63

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Luca T*
> 
> I installed the internal USB-hub and connected all devices but now it shows the device is not recognized and not installed correctly!


When I installed mine. I had to let windows install the HUB drivers before attaching the Aquaero or other AC divices to it. Once windows installed HUB drivers I could attach devices and Aquasuite would see them.


----------



## Luca T

All port inverted









Sorry guys, Too many things installed at same time!

Now Aquasuite shows Aquaero and 3 mps

But how can I set the two pumps?


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Luca T*
> 
> All port inverted
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sorry guys, Too many things installed at same time!
> 
> Now Aquasuite shows Aquaero and 3 mps
> 
> But how can I set the two pumps?


the pump is a mps device...check in aquasuite which of those mps are.


----------



## Luca T

I thing that I don't understand is:

If I watch the Aquaero demo it shows just temperature and not flow then if I go in the MPS device flow meter it obviously shows flow!

But why if even flow-meter is connected to Aquaero with Aquabus?


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Luca T*
> 
> I thing that I don't understand is:
> 
> If I watch the Aquaero demo it shows just temperature and not flow then if I go in the MPS device flow meter it obviously shows flow!
> 
> But why if even flow-meter is connected to Aquaero with Aquabus?


Because those pages are just that, Demo's. The "flow" in the aquaero demo is set to the 3 pin high flow meter port by default. If you right click on the guage and select change data source you can switch it to the flow reading from the MPS device.

These type of things are covered in Normans guides to setting up your own overview pages.


----------



## Luca T

This Aquaero and Aquasuite are amazing, I just need to relax and not try to do three things at once!









Overclock cpu, flash the vga bios and set the Aquasuite


----------



## Luca T

i created my page with temp sensor, flow sensor, fans and the two pump power!

Next step is Can I create a pumps power's curve that increase the power in accordance with the cpu temp?


----------



## REDEMPTEURE

Sign me up please











I can't ever remember being intimidated by a fan controller, let alone any peice of hardware before...
I'm going to scour this forum for answers!

Heres my original thread if anyone has some insight for me.

http://www.overclock.net/t/1524399/seeking-guidance-initial-setup-wiring-of-double-aquaero-6-pro/0_30

Short form: I'm really nervous about setting this up right. With the dual pumps and all. Should I make a test bench on another system to configure the aquabus channels before I install in my new box?


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *REDEMPTEURE*
> 
> Sign me up please
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I can't ever remember being intimidated by a fan controller, let alone any peice of hardware before...
> I'm going to scour this forum for answers!
> 
> Heres my original thread if anyone has some insight for me.
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1524399/seeking-guidance-initial-setup-wiring-of-double-aquaero-6-pro/0_30
> 
> Short form: I'm really nervous about setting this up right. With the dual pumps and all. Should I make a test bench on another system to configure the aquabus channels before I install in my new box?


that would be wise. Always easier to test all components out of the box.


----------



## Luca T

I'm used to switch the PSU off and unplug it from the wall when I don't use the PC, but in this way the Aquaero lose its setting, is it correct?

And when I start it again it does with pumps at maximum speed and it create a vortex in the reservoir so then I have again a lot of air in the loop









Should I buy the optional lithium-battery for the Aquaero? Or Can I solve in other way?


----------



## Ironsmack

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Luca T*
> 
> I'm used to switch the PSU off and unplug it from the wall when I don't use the PC, but in this way the Aquaero lose its setting, is it correct?
> 
> And when I start it again it does with pumps at maximum speed and it create a vortex in the reservoir so then I have again a lot of air in the loop
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Should I buy the optional lithium-battery for the Aquaero? Or Can I solve in other way?


You will only introduce air if your res isn't filled with coolant properly. Just make sure that your res is half full or at least almost full.


----------



## Luca T

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ironsmack*
> 
> You will only introduce air if your res isn't filled with coolant properly. Just make sure that your res is half full or at least almost full.


I did it, but the problem is the turbulance at pumps FULL speed the air created and introduced in the loop create problems


----------



## electro2u

Yes I'm pretty sure the real time clock module will address the issue. I don't understand why the need for shutting the psu off though. Modern motherboards are designed to be passively powered for charging devices and sending passive power to usb items like the aquaero


----------



## Luca T

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> Yes I'm pretty sure the real time clock module will address the issue. I don't understand why the need for shutting the psu off though. Modern motherboards are designed to be passively powered for charging devices and sending passive power to usb items like the aquaero


It's just a safe attitude to be sure it's not connected if I'm out home and it starts rain and lighting, I took it after a lighting stroke on the building's roof Where I lived and I had to throw in the bin tv, vhs-player etc


----------



## electro2u

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Luca T*
> 
> It's just a safe attitude to be sure it's not connected if I'm out home and it starts rain and lighting, I took it after a lighting stroke on the building's roof Where I lived and I had to throw in the bin tv, vhs-player etc


I do understand this concern. But I suspect you are not disconnecting your Ethernet internet connection as well, so unplugging the power supply is sort of pointless, since a strong power surge will travel through both points of entry. I can't say for sure that a huge power surge like the one that damaged your items previously would not affect a computer that was *powered off*at all. However, using a *surge* protector and changing it out every 2-3 years will absolutely eliminate the danger. Use one that has an in out for the internet cables and you will be much safer and eliminate the need of unplugging everything.

Edit: sure >>> *surge*


----------



## T0B5T3R

I own an aquaero 5 LT


----------



## REDEMPTEURE

so just to be clear:

i should connect my 2x aq d5 to my mb with usb, and my controller to mb via usb for setup on a test bench before i put them in the new box?
aftewards i should be able to connect them via aquabus to the controller. any pros/cons to using a swiftech pwm splitter?


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Luca T*
> 
> I'm used to switch the PSU off and unplug it from the wall when I don't use the PC, but in this way the Aquaero lose its setting, is it correct?
> 
> And when I start it again it does with pumps at maximum speed and it create a vortex in the reservoir so then I have again a lot of air in the loop
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Should I buy the optional lithium-battery for the Aquaero? Or Can I solve in other way?


Shutting the power off does not erase any settings, only a firmware update will do that. The realtime clock thing is just for keeping the time settings accurate on devices that are not connected via usb. When they are connected via usb they just auto update the time everytime the system starts. Its a pretty niche device for use in like test benches.


----------



## FrancisJF

Can a Aquaero 5 LT control a 4 pin fan like this one?:



even my fan cables are 3 pin?


----------



## Luca T

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> I do understand this concern. But I suspect you are not disconnecting your Ethernet internet connection as well, so unplugging the power supply is sort of pointless, since a strong power surge will travel through both points of entry. I can't say for sure that a huge power surge like the one that damaged your items previously would not affect a computer that was *powered off*at all. However, using a sure protector and changing it out every 2-3 years will absolutely eliminate the danger. Use one that has an in out for the internet cables and you will be much safer and eliminate the need of unplugging everything.


I switch off every cable








That time destruction arrived through the Antenna plug


----------



## Luca T

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> Shutting the power off does not erase any settings, only a firmware update will do that. The realtime clock thing is just for keeping the time settings accurate on devices that are not connected via usb. When they are connected via usb they just auto update the time everytime the system starts. Its a pretty niche device for use in like test benches.


So Why did it start without the setting I chose?


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Luca T*
> 
> So Why did it start without the setting I chose?


No idea, you haven't supplied any info, but it has nothing to do with the power. Mine gets unplugged all the time and never needs to be reset.
Also if power loss did affect more than just the time settings I'm sure Aquacomputer would have included a battery as standard. Having to reset everything all the time would be unacceptable.


----------



## Luca T

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> No idea, you haven't supplied any info, but it has nothing to do with the power. Mine gets unplugged all the time and never needs to be reset.
> Also if power loss did affect more than just the time settings I'm sure Aquacomputer would have included a battery as standard. Having to reset everything all the time would be unacceptable.


now all setting remained regularly!

Is it possible it was due to my change in priority? i set Aquabus instead of USB?
Now with USB priority all ok


----------



## electro2u

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Luca T*
> 
> So Why did it start without the setting I chose?


Oh jeez. I think I may know the answer. And you aren't going to like it.

I have had this happen ONCE.

Instead of going way way off topic with this, please read the following thread I recently created:
Seasonic X-1250 12v accessory rail moderately spiking and blowing my LEDs


----------



## MrStrat007

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> Oh jeez. I think I may know the answer. And you aren't going to like it.
> 
> I have had this happen ONCE.
> 
> Instead of going way way off topic with this, please read the following thread I recently created:
> Seasonic X-1250 12v accessory rail moderately spiking and blowing my LEDs


For a device as complex as the aquaero, I doubt this is the culprit. The aquaero almost certainly has some onboard vrm for the electronics which would regulate incoming power to its cpu, etc. and should be unaffected by voltage ripples on the 12v and/or 5v lines. If the voltage ripple/surge was big enough to cause settings to be lost, I imagine the aquaero device itself would also be damaged, which is not the case here.


----------



## electro2u

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrStrat007*
> 
> For a device as complex as the aquaero, I doubt this is the culprit. The aquaero almost certainly has some onboard vrm for the electronics which would regulate incoming power to its cpu, etc. and should be unaffected by voltage ripples on the 12v and/or 5v lines. If the voltage ripple/surge was big enough to cause settings to be lost, I imagine the aquaero device itself would also be damaged, which is not the case here.


It was enough to blow my Monsoon LEDs 3 times. And I have no other explanation for why my Aquaero settings were lost. Also... Luca has a Seasonic P-1000... I'm curious about using the switch on the back of the Seasonic PSU as opposed to simply pulling the plug out.


----------



## MrStrat007

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> It was enough to blow my Monsoon LEDs 3 times. And I have no other explanation for why my Aquaero settings were lost. Also... Luca has a Seasonic P-1000... I'm curious about using the switch on the back of the Seasonic PSU as opposed to simply pulling the plug out.


Led's are quite sensitive to changes in voltage and current because these affect the resistor value used to stabilize power through the led. As for Seasonic, I'm sure there are other users here who also run a Seasonic psu without any issues. If it was caused by ripple at the molex plug, that sounds like a plug that's not fully seated to me. Most Seasonic units have very good voltage regulation. As others have said, the settings are saved onto the aquaero device itself in what I assume is non volatile storage, so even if it loses complete power (pulling the plug) or if there is a significant ripple in the supply voltage, it should retain the settings.

Not saying it's impossible but I do thing that it's quite unlikely. Maybe Shoggy can shed some light on this.


----------



## electro2u

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrStrat007*
> 
> Led's are quite sensitive to changes in voltage and current because these affect the resistor value used to stabilize power through the led. As for Seasonic, I'm sure there are other users here who also run a Seasonic psu without any issues. If it was caused by ripple at the molex plug, that sounds like a plug that's not fully seated to me. Most Seasonic units have very good voltage regulation. As others have said, the settings are saved onto the aquaero device itself in what I assume is non volatile storage, so even if it loses complete power (pulling the plug) or if there is a significant ripple in the supply voltage, it should retain the settings.
> 
> Not saying it's impossible but I do thing that it's quite unlikely. Maybe Shoggy can shed some light on this.


It's not a ripple issue, and Geno from Monsoon thought it was my Backup Battery causing it. I'm by no means saying it is definitely the PSU specifically, but I want to reiterate that this is only happening, same as Luca T, when I completely disconnect power to the PSU and then plug the unit back in after making changes to my loop.


----------



## MrStrat007

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> It's not a ripple issue, and Geno from Monsoon thought it was my Backup Battery causing it. I'm by no means saying it is definitely the PSU specifically, but I want to reiterate that this is only happening, same as Luca T, when I completely disconnect power to the PSU and then plug the unit back in after making changes to my loop.


Ahh it seems I misread your original post (I haven't gotten out of bed yet, still waking up). In that case the only thing I could think of would be that the inrush through the psu isn't being completely damped causing a small spike before stabilizing at the outputs, which is where your led's would be popping from. To my knowledge it still shouldn't affect your aquaero settings though.. But I could be wrong


----------



## valvehead

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Luca T*
> 
> I'm used to switch the PSU off and unplug it from the wall when I don't use the PC, but in this way the Aquaero lose its setting, is it correct?
> 
> And when I start it again it does with pumps at maximum speed and it create a vortex in the reservoir so then I have again a lot of air in the loop
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Should I buy the optional lithium-battery for the Aquaero? Or Can I solve in other way?


First, save the settings in Aquasuite to the Aquaero by clicking the floppy disk icon:



Then on the Aquaero itself, go to Menu -> System -> Profiles and factory defaults -> Profile management. Select Profile 1 (this is the profile that will be loaded when powered on).



Then select Save current device configuration.



Select Yes and hit OK.

You can save up to four different profiles, and you can even give them different names. I have three different profiles for different purposes (normal operation, bleeding the loop, and folding).

The first profile will be loaded at power on, and you can select a different profile by going to Profiles and factory defaults -> Profile selection.



If you have an XT you can even map one of the programmable keys to go to the profile selection page:



Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Go to Menu -> User interface -> Keys -> Programmable keys. Select one of the four keys, and then select Learn key function.



Go back to the profile selection page. Hit the Learn key at the bottom left.



Exit out of the menu. Now the key you programmed will go directly from the profile selection page. You will also need to save the profile again since the key mapping is part of the profile.


----------



## Jakusonfire

I'm pretty sure profiles and settings are stored in the same non volatile memory so if settings were being lost profiles would too.


----------



## Luca T

Ahhh ok, I have just saved on Aquasuite, I didn't do anything directly on Aquaero!

Sorry guys I'm totally new of aquacomputer devics!

But then Can I modify pumps speed directly on Aquaero? Or Do I have to change it in the Aquasuite first?


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Luca T*
> 
> Ahhh ok, I have just saved on Aquasuite, I didn't do anything directly on Aquaero!
> 
> Sorry guys I'm totally new of aquacomputer devics!
> 
> But then Can I modify pumps speed directly on Aquaero? Or Do I have to change it in the Aquasuite first?


I haven't used Aquasuite in ages while the build is ongoing. Everything can be done on the unit itself provided you have the models with a display/control option on them (XT and Pro).


----------



## Luca T

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> I'm pretty profiles and settings are stored in the same non volatile memory so if settings were being lost profiles would too.




I hope it is just problem of my wrong setting


----------



## Luca T

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> I haven't used Aquasuite in ages while the build is ongoing. Everything can be done on the unit itself provided you have the models with a display/control option on them (XT and Pro).


Yep, I have the 6 XT, so I Should be able to do that (if I don't do a mess







)


----------



## valvehead

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Luca T*
> 
> Ahhh ok, I have just saved on Aquasuite, I didn't do anything directly on Aquaero!
> 
> Sorry guys I'm totally new of aquacomputer devics!
> 
> But then Can I modify pumps speed directly on Aquaero? Or Do I have to change it in the Aquasuite first?


The Aquaero is a powerful device. It also has a bit of a steep learning curve. Hang in there and you will be rewarded with the satisfaction that you made a wise purchase!









Yes, you can modify the pump settings directly on the Aquaero. To change the controller settings, go to Menu -> Controllers. Select the type and name of the controller that the pumps were associated with in Aquasuite. There you can change the settings of that controller.

You can also modify the settings of each pump in Menu -> Pumps. Here you can change the min/max speed of each pump as well as the controller (Datasource) that it is assigned to.

Remember to save the profile after making any changes.


----------



## Luca T

Thank's a lot!

I didn't understand well the difference of the priority USB/aquabus in pratical use


----------



## Laine

Just some messing about in Aquasuite.







Anyone got animations working somehow? Scripts?


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Laine*
> 
> Anyone got animations working somehow? Scripts?


There's some explanations in the German part of the Aquacomputer forum about how to program it, but I never bothered to try.

http://forum.aquacomputer.de/berwachung-und-steuerung/p1355338-lcdhype-f-r-das-aquaero-5/#post1355338


----------



## Jakusonfire

Aquacomputers new Aquaero compatible RGB LED controller released. Up to 8A ! of power for LED's or other devices.

http://forum.aquacomputer.de/weitere-foren/english-forum/105464-farbwerk-put-color-in-your-life-new-4x-rgb-led-controller/


----------



## Luca T

even animation?

This Aquaero still doesn't stop to surprise me!


----------



## electro2u

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> Aquacomputers new Aquaero compatible RGB LED controller released. Up to 8A ! of power for LED's or other devices.
> 
> http://forum.aquacomputer.de/weitere-foren/english-forum/105464-farbwerk-put-color-in-your-life-new-4x-rgb-led-controller/
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## MrStrat007

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Laine*
> 
> Just some messing about in Aquasuite.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Anyone got animations working somehow? Scripts?


Looks great!

Off topic: Are those M-audio BX8 Carbons??


----------



## iCrap

I just got an Aquero 6... does anyone know if there is an easy way to toggle the relay via the buttons on the front? or maybe via ir? i want to use it to toggle my lighting on and off.
also how can i set it up / wire it up to turn the PC on via IR if it's currently off?
and any other cool things the Aquero can do? looks like i can set an rgb led in my res to change based on temp, gonna set that up also.


----------



## dseg

I can not find the section were it talks about the defect in the A6 when it originally came out.

Is there a limit to the number of non-PWM fans you can connect to each one of the four PWM fan connections on the A6? Or did this have something to do with Corsair fans?

I am using about 30x Scythe GentleTyphoon AP-15 (120mm 1850 rpm) and trying to figure how many I can put on each channel.


----------



## Shoggy

This is NOT a defect! It was just a design flaw of Corsair with their PWM fans from the SP series and we changed something to get their sh... right.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dseg*
> 
> I can not find the section were it talks about the defect in the A6 when it originally came out.
> 
> Is there a limit to the number of non-PWM fans you can connect to each one of the four PWM fan connections on the A6? Or did this have something to do with Corsair fans?
> 
> I am using about 30x Scythe GentleTyphoon AP-15 (120mm 1850 rpm) and trying to figure how many I can put on each channel.


It wasn't a defect in the original release, rather a resistor value selected to give optimum protection to the PWM pin input.

As it turned out, it also created an issue with being able to control more than a few of the Corsair PWM fans, that many guys had already bought while waiting on the new A6.

It only affected those fans, as they do not follow the Intel PWM standard.

AC was very quick, once the issue was identified, to change the resistor value to where it still provided reasonable protection, but also allowed control of enough of the Corsair PWM fans per channel for a 360 or 480 rad in push pull.

As far as voltage controlled fans, the limit is based on how much current they draw . . . .

Each channel can supply up to 30W, or 2.5A at 12V.

IIRC, the AP15's are just under 0.1A, so I'd consider them as 1.2W each, which would allow for up to 25 on a channel.

More likely you plan to break them down into groups with 4, 6, or 8 on a rad, so you shouldn't have any trouble managing 30 of them.

Darlene


----------



## Squeaks5635

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> This is NOT a defect! It was just a design flaw of Corsair with their PWM fans from the SP series and we changed something to get their sh... right.












I agree with Shoggy it was not a defect

Edit: and Darlene


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> Aquacomputers new Aquaero compatible RGB LED controller released. Up to 8A ! of power for LED's or other devices.
> 
> http://forum.aquacomputer.de/weitere-foren/english-forum/105464-farbwerk-put-color-in-your-life-new-4x-rgb-led-controller/


have to admit i am impressed
but why not both BT and aquabus


----------



## Shoggy

Because the CPU does not have an infinite amount of IOs


----------



## aaroc

The fabwerk will not use the RGB connector of the Aquaero6 ?


----------



## Shoggy

It does not use the connector which is also not necessary because the farbwerk can be controlled via aquabus when connected to an aquaero.


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> It does not use the connector which is also not necessary because the farbwerk can be controlled via aquabus when connected to an aquaero.


Is there a limit on the length of the LED strip that can be controlled, since power seems to be straight from the PSU?


----------



## Shoggy

The length is limited by the load (2.5A per color).


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> The length is limited by the load (2.5A per color).


Got it, thanks


----------



## Luca T

Can I bring lectures of Aida64 on the Aquaero?


----------



## electro2u

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Luca T*
> 
> Can I bring lectures of Aida64 on the Aquaero?


Absolutely. Would be much appreciated.

One curiosity. I've heard running Aida64 and aqua suite can cause some latency in competitive gaming. I'm not into fps stuff but maybe iRacing now and again. Perhaps I'm not good enough to notice the difference.


----------



## aaroc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> It does not use the connector which is also not necessary because the farbwerk can be controlled via aquabus when connected to an aquaero.


Excellent. I bought a RGB light strip controller from a user in the Aquacomputer forum. If I want I can use both simultaneously if I bought the Fabwerk in the future.

Waiting for the IR....


----------



## dseg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> It wasn't a defect in the original release, rather a resistor value selected to give optimum protection to the PWM pin input.
> 
> As it turned out, it also created an issue with being able to control more than a few of the Corsair PWM fans, that many guys had already bought while waiting on the new A6.
> 
> It only affected those fans, as they do not follow the Intel PWM standard.
> 
> AC was very quick, once the issue was identified, to change the resistor value to where it still provided reasonable protection, but also allowed control of enough of the Corsair PWM fans per channel for a 360 or 480 rad in push pull.
> 
> As far as voltage controlled fans, the limit is based on how much current they draw . . . .
> 
> Each channel can supply up to 30W, or 2.5A at 12V.
> 
> IIRC, the AP15's are just under 0.1A, so I'd consider them as 1.2W each, which would allow for up to 25 on a channel.
> 
> More likely you plan to break them down into groups with 4, 6, or 8 on a rad, so you shouldn't have any trouble managing 30 of them.
> 
> Darlene


Awesome, thank you for the reply.
Wouldn't the old Aquaero overheat if you put too many non-PWM fans at 25-50%?
Is this still the case with the A6? Or can I have 10 fans at 25% on a single channel with the A6?
Again, I am using the Gentle Typhoons AP-15s fans.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dseg*
> 
> Awesome, thank you for the reply.
> Wouldn't the old Aquaero overheat if you put too many non-PWM fans at 25-50%?
> Is this still the case with the A6? Or can I have 10 fans at 25% on a single channel with the A6?
> Again, I am using the Gentle Typhoons AP-15s fans.


Aquaero 5 and earlier models are prone to get hot, but won't overheat unless you are close to maxing out each channel. If you're staying well under it's rated 20w for each channel - slightly more if you have the heatsink or waterblock - then you should be fine.

I've been running 8 AP-45s each running 24/7 on two channels of an AQ5 LT on my bench rig for several months now with no issues. AP-45s (0.123amp rated / 0.53amp starting) use ~ 50% more current than AP-15s (0.083amp rated / 0.36amp starting) and I keep the 2150rpm fans humming about ~900rpms most of the time. FWIW I do have the optional heatsink installed on it and it does get a bit of airflow.

The Aquaero 6 is an improved design and doesn't suffer from the same heat related issues. I also have an AQ6 XT sitting here for my next build where I plan on controlling more than 40 AP-45s with it. lol


----------



## Jakusonfire

The Aquaero 6 uses a different method to reduce voltage and the result is the exact opposite of the AQ5. At low voltage less heat is created than at 12V


----------



## Shoggy

The aquaero 5 uses a classical analog voltage control while the aquaero 6 uses digital switching controllers which are very efficient.


----------



## Luca T

Hi Shoggy, I eventually managed to mount all the aquacomputer systems, 2 D5 pumps, flow-meter 400, Aqualis (complete version) and temperature sensor, all connected to the Aquaero6XT with Aquabus and to USB with internal hub!

Could you give me a couple of info please:

- I set the flow meter but it shows just 10 L/h with the two pumps at 50% and 27L/h with pumps at 100% how is it possible? (I even can't keep pumps at 100% because the too much power creates a vortex in the Aqualis)

- how Can I bring Aida64's values on the Aquaero?


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Luca T*
> 
> Hi Shoggy, I eventually managed to mount all the aquacomputer systems, 2 D5 pumps, flow-meter 400, Aqualis (complete version) and temperature sensor, all connected to the Aquaero6XT with Aquabus and to USB with internal hub!
> 
> Could you give me a couple of info please:
> 
> - I set the flow meter but it shows just 10 L/h with the two pumps at 50% and 27L/h with pumps at 100% how is it possible? (I even can't keep pumps at 100% because the too much power creates a vortex in the Aqualis)
> 
> - how Can I bring Aida64's values on the Aquaero?


in regard to the flow meter this is a known issue with the MPS 400. For some reason it comes reporting very odd values from factory (it seems to be in wrong units). What fittings are you using? Are they 3/8 x 5/8 by any chance? If so you can head to http://www.overclock.net/t/1501978/ocn-community-water-cooling-test-thread and download the file fast_fate made for me using bitspower 3/8 x 5/8 fittings. If you can't locate drop me a PM and will send to you. Then you import the file as a custom calibration in the MSP 400 page in Aquasuite.

*edit-*
here:
http://www.overclock.net/t/1501978/ocn-community-water-cooling-test-thread/100#post_22648981

and here:
http://www.overclock.net/t/1501978/ocn-community-water-cooling-test-thread/150#post_22685682

for different tube/fittings

Also keep in mind that the maximum possible reading of flow from the MPS 400 is around 2 GPM.


----------



## Luca T

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> in regard to the flow meter this is a known issue with the MPS 400. For some reason it comes reporting very odd values from factory (it seems to be in the wrong units). What fittings are you using? Are they 3/8 x 5/8 by any chance? If so you can head to http://www.overclock.net/t/1501978/ocn-community-water-cooling-test-thread and download the file fast_fate made for me using bitspower 3/8 x 5/8 fittings. If you can't locate drop me a PM and will send to you. Then you import the file as a custom calibration in the MSP 400 page in Aquasuite.
> 
> *edit-*
> here:
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1501978/ocn-community-water-cooling-test-thread/100#post_22648981
> 
> and here:
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1501978/ocn-community-water-cooling-test-thread/150#post_22685682
> 
> for different tube/fittings
> 
> Also keep in mind that the maximum possible reading of flow from the MPS 400 is around 2 GPM.


Thank's a lot

I used Monsoon 3/8" ID - 1/2" OD for Rigid Tube

But I'm sorry but which should I use for my tube sise?


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Luca T*
> 
> Thank's a lot
> 
> I used Monsoon 3/8" ID - 1/2" OD for Rigid Tube
> 
> But I'm sorry but which should I use for my tube sise?


well your ID is the same like the file fast_fate did for me so I would go that way:

http://www.overclock.net/t/1501978/ocn-community-water-cooling-test-thread/150#post_22685682

just download the file and then import as a calibration file in Aquasuite


----------



## Luca T

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> well your ID is the same like the file fast_fate did for me so I would go that way:
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1501978/ocn-community-water-cooling-test-thread/150#post_22685682
> 
> just download the file and then import as a calibration file in Aquasuite


That's perfectttttt!
rep++++++























Thank you soo much!

At 100% i'm at 400L/h and over at 50% i'm at 198L/h


----------



## Gabrielzm

Plenty enough flow to do whatever you want. Glad it helped


----------



## Shoggy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Luca T*
> 
> - how Can I bring Aida64's values on the Aquaero?


In AIDA you have to got to preferences -> External Applications and then check "Enable shared memory". Afterwards you can access the values as software sensors in the sensor tab of the aquasuite.


----------



## Luca T

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> In AIDA you have to got to preferences -> External Applications and then check "Enable shared memory". Afterwards you can access the values as software sensors in the sensor tab of the aquasuite.


Found and set all! That's perfect! Thank you!








I have all in Aquasuite, but how Can I see them on the Aquaero screen?

Next step try to load animations


----------



## Shoggy

You can just drag and drop the information screens in the tab information pages. The same way you can also rearrange the screens.


----------



## Luca T

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> You can just drag and drop the information screens in the tab information pages. The same way you can also rearrange the screens.


Thanks Shoggy!









This Toy Is amazing!


----------



## Luca T

Hello I faced a random Windows boot issue,

At the beginning I thought it was OC related, then I tried on default and it was still there so I tried to disconnect the NZXt internal USB extender and the issue disappeared and now I started to check every Aquacomputer device connected to the NZXT connecting them directly to the Mainboard one by one!

Have anyone had any issue with Aquaero and RampageV?


----------



## IT Diva

Hi Guys,

I'm starting a new build, and I have some questions for you all that have more experience with Aquasuite than I do . . . .

Question #1

When using two A6's, can the second one "see / control from" the temp sensors plugged into the other one . . . or would I need a duplicate set of temp sensors to plug into the second one?

Question #2

Can you create a "reverse" fan curve that outputs higher with lower temp value, and lower with higher temp value?

Question #3

Can you set the relay output to toggle at a set temp from any of the sensors or virtual sensors?

Question #4

Can you have a virtual sensor that's the average of 2 other virtual sensors? . . . . ie: If I have a Delta t for each of 2 loops, (Dt 1 and Dt 2) can I average those values to a single Delta t value Dt 3

The reason I'm asking, is that I really like how the chiller build worked out, and I find that it only needs 1 of the chillers for the temp range I'm working in. . . . . . (staying just above dew point)

That means I have a chiller that needs a new home . . . . .

I also have a daily driver PC that's a bit long in the tooth . . .

AND

I have my Switch 810 build with a 3930 on an Asus RIVE and trifire Matrix 7970's, just gathering dust . . . .

So

I ordered a new Caselabs TH10A, white, reversed, this week to transplant the 810 guts into and upgrade to a chiller build to be my daily driver.

I'll be setting it up similarly to the first chiller build, where the chiller only comes on once it's needed.

I'll be using 2 plate exchangers again as well, but this time the chilled flow will of course, be common to both, but one will cool the GPU loop and the other will cool the CPU/Mobo loop, since each of those loops gets its own 480 rad up top.

One A6 will control a pair of 35Xs on the CPU/Mobo loop, another pair of 35Xs on the GPU loop, and the fans on the 480 rads for each loop

The second A6 will control the dual PWM D5s on the cold loop, the output channel to set chiller active mode, and a channel to "unlatch" the chiller active mode.

That still leaves me with 1 additional channels for auxiliary use . . . . either for a manual chiller mode or case fans or something.

Should be lotsa fun . . .

Darlene

and also adding flow rate control for the GPU


----------



## Shoggy

*#1:* you have no direct access to the second aquaero but you can read its temperature sensors with the latest Beta of HWiNFO and import these values as software sensor back to the first aquaero. A bit tricky but this works









*#2:* Yes, no problem.

*#3:* There is a a two point controller where you can set a temperature to switch the relay on and off but I am not sure if I got your question right. You can use any temperature sensor (no matter if real, software or virtual) but only one of them. Pretty complicated but also possible is to use the alarm management for this where you could use more than one sensor. The assigned alarm event would be to switch the relay.

*#4:* Yes, you can use virtual sensors within virtual sensors


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Hi Guys,
> 
> I'm starting a new build, and I have some questions for you all that have more experience with Aquasuite than I do . . . .
> 
> Question #1
> 
> When using two A6's, can the second one "see / control from" the temp sensors plugged into the other one . . . or would I need a duplicate set of temp sensors to plug into the second one?
> 
> *If you mean control on aquasuite of sensor of both AQ6 at the same time by all means yes. If you mean control the sensors from the Aq6 unit A using Aq6 unit B without been under the Aquasuite environment then I don't known
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *
> 
> Question #2
> 
> Can you create a "reverse" fan curve that outputs higher with lower temp value, and lower with higher temp value?
> 
> *yes you can, just tested*
> 
> Question #3
> 
> Can you set the relay output to toggle at a set temp from any of the sensors or virtual sensors?
> 
> Question #4
> 
> Can you have a virtual sensor that's the average of 2 other virtual sensors? . . . . ie: If I have a Delta t for each of 2 loops, (Dt 1 and Dt 2) can I average those values to a single Delta t value Dt 3
> 
> *yes you can*
> 
> The reason I'm asking, is that I really like how the chiller build worked out, and I find that it only needs 1 of the chillers for the temp range I'm working in. . . . . . (staying just above dew point)
> 
> That means I have a chiller that needs a new home . . . . .
> 
> I also have a daily driver PC that's a bit long in the tooth . . .
> 
> AND
> 
> I have my Switch 810 build with a 3930 on an Asus RIVE and trifire Matrix 7970's, just gathering dust . . . .
> 
> So
> 
> I ordered a new Caselabs TH10A, white, reversed, this week to transplant the 810 guts into and upgrade to a chiller build to be my daily driver.
> 
> I'll be setting it up similarly to the first chiller build, where the chiller only comes on once it's needed.
> 
> I'll be using 2 plate exchangers again as well, but this time the chilled flow will of course, be common to both, but one will cool the GPU loop and the other will cool the CPU/Mobo loop, since each of those loops gets its own 480 rad up top.
> 
> One A6 will control a pair of 35Xs on the CPU/Mobo loop, another pair of 35Xs on the GPU loop, and a pair of PWM D5's on the chilled coolant loop
> 
> The second A6 will control the two sets of fans, and an output channel to set chiller active mode.
> 
> That still leaves me with 2 additional channels for auxiliary use . . . . 1 for an "unlatch" chiller mode output, and the other for case fans or something.
> 
> Should be lotsa fun . . .
> 
> Darlene
> 
> and also adding flow rate control for the GPU


I reply to those points that I known the answer in bold. Sound like a lot of fun Darlene. keep us posted









edit - Shoggy beat me to it


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> *#1:* you have no direct access to the second aquaero but you can read its temperature sensors with the latest Beta of HWiNFO and import these values as software sensor back to the first aquaero. A bit tricky but this works
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *#2:* Yes, no problem.
> 
> *#3:* There is a a two point controller where you can set a temperature to switch the relay on and off but I am not sure if I got your question right. You can use any temperature sensor (no matter if real, software or virtual) but only one of them. Pretty complicated but also possible is to use the alarm management for this where you could use more than one sensor. The assigned alarm event would be to switch the relay.
> 
> *#4:* Yes, you can use virtual sensors within virtual sensor [SOUND]Inception[/SOUND]


Thanks Shoggy, Gabs, . . awesome . . .

I like the alarm management idea . . that could look at delta t's for the GPU loop and the mobo loop, and trip the relay to enable the chiller-on latching relay and SSR based on either exceeding a preset limit.

Darlene


----------



## VSG

lol that Inception video started autoplaying ramdonly on my phone for some reason and I had no idea what the heck was going on.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter




----------



## Newtocooling

I'm putting one of my 6XT's in a new build I'm doing, and when I used it last night to check the new fans, fan port 4 no longer works. Any suggestions to trouble shoot this?


----------



## Shoggy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Newtocooling*
> 
> I'm putting one of my 6XT's in a new build I'm doing, and when I used it last night to check the new fans, fan port 4 no longer works. Any suggestions to trouble shoot this?


First thing to try: load the factory defaults in the system tab and a connected fan MUST run. If this not happens you can be pretty sure there is something damaged


----------



## Newtocooling

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> First thing to try: load the factory defaults in the system tab and a connected fan MUST run. If this not happens you can be pretty sure there is something damaged


Okay I'll give it a shot when I get home, if I remember right when I had this one in my old build, I was only using the first three channels, and had the curve set up for only those three channels as well.


----------



## GiraffePencils

Hello,
I was planning on getting the Aquaero 6 and wanted to check that it'll do what I'd like.

I'll have 8 fans, 1 temp sensor, 1 pwm Pump and maybe a flow meter in the future.

will it be able to handle this 'off the shelf' or will I need some of it's add-ons?

Would an Aquaero 5 be ok for my needs?


----------



## Shoggy

No problem at all for the aquaero 6. Which pump is your PWM pump? Some of them can not be controlled because of a wrong PWM implementation (in the pump).

aquaero 5 should also do the job.


----------



## Luca T

Shoggy could you please check about my Windows boot block issue when Aquaero6XT Is connected to the USB of the Asus RampageV?


----------



## Squeaks5635

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> No problem at all for the aquaero 6. Which pump is your PWM pump? Some of them can not be controlled because of a wrong PWM implementation (in the pump).


Which pumps have this issue.

I have plans on getting this bay res combo that comes with two pwm pumps.

http://www.ekwb.com/shop/reservoirs-and-acc/res-pump-combo/ek-ddc/ek-sbay-dual-ddc-3-2-pwm-serial-incl-2x-pump.html

Do you know if these pumps will be PWM compatible with my 6 XT. Also would I be able to control them off the same channel if they get their power from a different source. (I believe that two of these is more than the 2.5 A per channel limit)

Thanks,

JT


----------



## Nomadskid

How does the Aquacomputer aquaero 6 pro IR react to a Logitech Harmony remote? Will it function?


----------



## Wolfsbora

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nomadskid*
> 
> How does the Aquacomputer aquaero 6 pro IR react to a Logitech Harmony remote? Will it function?


I have not programmed a Harmony or Universal Remote (the brand) to work with the Aquaero but I'm sure it would work. I've programmed well over a hundred of those remotes with all kinds of crazy commands. If a device has an IR receiver, a Harmony can control it. You may not be able program the remote from Logitech's site but you can use the "learning" function to capture what the Aquaero's remote is emitting.


----------



## GiraffePencils

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> No problem at all for the aquaero 6. Which pump is your PWM pump? Some of them can not be controlled because of a wrong PWM implementation (in the pump).
> 
> aquaero 5 should also do the job.


It's the EK D5 PWM motor :Link


----------



## Nomadskid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wolfsbora*
> 
> I have not programmed a Harmony or Universal Remote (the brand) to work with the Aquaero but I'm sure it would work. I've programmed well over a hundred of those remotes with all kinds of crazy commands. If a device has an IR receiver, a Harmony can control it. You may not be able program the remote from Logitech's site but you can use the "learning" function to capture what the Aquaero's remote is emitting.


Man, you're just solving all of my problems Wolfsbora. Thanks man, +rep, always available to solve problems


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Squeaks5635*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> No problem at all for the aquaero 6. Which pump is your PWM pump? Some of them can not be controlled because of a wrong PWM implementation (in the pump).
> 
> 
> 
> Which pumps have this issue.
> 
> I have plans on getting this bay res combo that comes with two pwm pumps.
> 
> http://www.ekwb.com/shop/reservoirs-and-acc/res-pump-combo/ek-ddc/ek-sbay-dual-ddc-3-2-pwm-serial-incl-2x-pump.html
> 
> Do you know if these pumps will be PWM compatible with my 6 XT. Also would I be able to control them off the same channel if they get their power from a different source. (I believe that two of these is more than the 2.5 A per channel limit)
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> JT
Click to expand...

So far as I know, EK is the only supplier of a PWM version of the Laing DDC pump that is not the 35X model. . . . That said, the 35X works fine with the A6 right out of the box, I've run as many as 4 from a single channel, powered by a molex from the PSU, of course.

That one you linked should probably work the same.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GiraffePencils*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> No problem at all for the aquaero 6. Which pump is your PWM pump? Some of them can not be controlled because of a wrong PWM implementation (in the pump).
> 
> aquaero 5 should also do the job.
> 
> 
> 
> It's the EK D5 PWM motor :Link
Click to expand...

The PWM versions of the D5 from all the other sources, all fail to work properly with the A6 right out of the box.

There's no reason to think that the EK version is going to be the exception.

There is a small mod you can make at the 4 pin connector at the A6, if you're a bit handy with electronics bits, that will allow it to work perfectly.

The PWM D5 doesn't follow precisely the Intel PWM standard, but it is a design trade-off so that the pump only runs at 60% with no PWM signal, instead of 100% which is normal for all other PWM devices.

Darlene


----------



## VSG

Wait, so the EK DDC PWM is different than the Swiftech DDC PWM? How so?


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Wait, so the EK DDC PWM is different than the Swiftech DDC PWM? How so?


I think Darlene was talking about two different situation VSG. The ddc 35x works fine (and so should work the EK version). On the other hand all d5 are Laing made and so far as we known will not be controlled by the Aquaero (either ek, xspc, koolance or Swiftech).


----------



## VSG

I got confused by this: "So far as I know, EK is the only supplier of a PWM version of the Laing DDC pump that is not the 35X model". Wasn't sure what that meant.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Hi Guys,
> 
> I'm starting a new build, and I have some questions for you all that have more experience with Aquasuite than I do . . . .
> 
> Question #1
> 
> When using two A6's, can the second one "see / control from" the temp sensors plugged into the other one . . . or would I need a duplicate set of temp sensors to plug into the second one?
> 
> Question #2
> 
> Can you create a "reverse" fan curve that outputs higher with lower temp value, and lower with higher temp value?
> 
> Question #3
> 
> Can you set the relay output to toggle at a set temp from any of the sensors or virtual sensors?
> 
> Question #4
> 
> Can you have a virtual sensor that's the average of 2 other virtual sensors? . . . . ie: If I have a Delta t for each of 2 loops, (Dt 1 and Dt 2) can I average those values to a single Delta t value Dt 3
> 
> The reason I'm asking, is that I really like how the chiller build worked out, and I find that it only needs 1 of the chillers for the temp range I'm working in. . . . . . (staying just above dew point)
> 
> That means I have a chiller that needs a new home . . . . .
> 
> I also have a daily driver PC that's a bit long in the tooth . . .
> 
> AND
> 
> I have my Switch 810 build with a 3930 on an Asus RIVE and trifire Matrix 7970's, just gathering dust . . . .
> 
> So
> 
> I ordered a new Caselabs TH10A, white, reversed, this week to transplant the 810 guts into and upgrade to a chiller build to be my daily driver.
> 
> I'll be setting it up similarly to the first chiller build, where the chiller only comes on once it's needed.
> 
> I'll be using 2 plate exchangers again as well, but this time the chilled flow will of course, be common to both, but one will cool the GPU loop and the other will cool the CPU/Mobo loop, since each of those loops gets its own 480 rad up top.
> 
> One A6 will control a pair of 35Xs on the CPU/Mobo loop, another pair of 35Xs on the GPU loop, and the fans on the 480 rads for each loop
> 
> The second A6 will control the dual PWM D5s on the cold loop, the output channel to set chiller active mode, and a channel to "unlatch" the chiller active mode.
> 
> That still leaves me with 1 additional channels for auxiliary use . . . . either for a manual chiller mode or case fans or something.
> 
> Should be lotsa fun . . .
> 
> Darlene
> 
> and also adding flow rate control for the GPU


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> *#1:* you have no direct access to the second aquaero but you can read its temperature sensors with the latest Beta of HWiNFO and import these values as software sensor back to the first aquaero. A bit tricky but this works
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *#2:* Yes, no problem.
> 
> *#3:* There is a a two point controller where you can set a temperature to switch the relay on and off but I am not sure if I got your question right. You can use any temperature sensor (no matter if real, software or virtual) but only one of them. Pretty complicated but also possible is to use the alarm management for this where you could use more than one sensor. The assigned alarm event would be to switch the relay.
> 
> *#4:* Yes, you can use virtual sensors within virtual sensors


looks like shoggy got there before me but yes i wanted to say about HWINFO ( q1 )



however it does not see both?!? i need to submit that report but just worth noting, only 1 aq seen
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> I got confused by this: "So far as I know, EK is the only supplier of a PWM version of the Laing DDC pump that is not the 35X model". Wasn't sure what that meant.


swiftech makes the M35X
ek makes the only other PWM variant of ddc


----------



## VSG

Ah that way! I need a break lol


----------



## Jakusonfire

I've seen contradictory evidence that the ek pwm ddc's and the 35x are the same thing, and ek aren't the only other sellers of pwm DDC's.
EK provides the model number of their pump as being the DDC 3.25tppwm4 ... which is the same model as has been described as the 35x in other places.

Maybe EK sell the only other branded pwm DDC but there are OEM laing/xylem models available.
Until the ek DDC and 35x are actually tested side by side there is just too much contradictory information to say for sure.


----------



## Mega Man

meh the power will always be in the pump tops which makes the swiftech MCP35x2 still the best


----------



## Wolfsbora

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nomadskid*
> 
> Man, you're just solving all of my problems Wolfsbora. Thanks man, +rep, always available to solve problems


Thanks for the rep! I'm glad I could help.


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> meh the power will always be in the pump tops which makes the swiftech MCP35x2 still the best


Based on what though? Some old testing that doesn't include the current models? At least as far as specs go Ek claims higher numbers than the 35x. The ek tops and the 35x top look remarkably similar.


----------



## Mega Man

based on me being a swiftech fanboy thats what [email protected]!!!


----------



## Jakewat

So, you can't buy the passive heatsink for the AQ5 here in NZ and why waste the money when you can just make one. It's a little rough at the moment but it should work perfectly with some thermal pads. I tapped the hole with M3 thread so that I can get a nice tight compression. What do you guys think?
http://s1354.photobucket.com/user/Jakewat97/media/temporary_zps64c90e8c.jpg.html
http://s1354.photobucket.com/user/Jakewat97/media/temporary_zpsbb91f775.jpg.html


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> I've seen contradictory evidence that the ek pwm ddc's and the 35x are the same thing, and ek aren't the only other sellers of pwm DDC's.
> EK provides the model number of their pump as being the DDC 3.25tppwm4 ... which is the same model as has been described as the 35x in other places.
> 
> Maybe EK sell the only other branded pwm DDC but there are OEM laing/xylem models available.
> Until the ek DDC and 35x are actually tested side by side there is just too much contradictory information to say for sure.


^^^ Exactly . . .

Whether it is, or is not, the exact same pump as the 35X, . . . The likelihood of it being the same pcb and overall design is high enough to suggest that it will work with the A6 as does the 35X.

The same reasoning equally strongly suggests that the EK PWM D5 is no different than other PWM D5 offerings, and will not work with the A6, at least not without the mod at the connector.

As evidenced by their product line and reputation in the community

EK's strong suit is machining and block design . . . .

We know from the Ascendacy, that electronics is not.

Darlene


----------



## GiraffePencils

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> ^^^ Exactly . . .
> 
> Whether it is, or is not, the exact same pump as the 35X, . . . The likelihood of it being the same pcb and overall design is high enough to suggest that it will work with the A6 as does the 35X.
> 
> The same reasoning equally strongly suggests that the EK PWM D5 is no different than other PWM D5 offerings, and will not work with the A6, at least without the mod at the connector.
> 
> As evidenced by their product line and reputation in the community
> 
> EK's strong suit is machining and block design . . . .
> 
> We know from the Ascendacy, that electronics is not.
> 
> Darlene


So, I will have to have a mod to work the pump,
Is there a thread about the mod?
what is it I'd need to do?


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> ^^^ Exactly . . .
> 
> Whether it is, or is not, the exact same pump as the 35X, . . . The likelihood of it being the same pcb and overall design is high enough to suggest that it will work with the A6 as does the 35X.
> 
> The same reasoning equally strongly suggests that the EK PWM D5 is no different than other PWM D5 offerings, and will not work with the A6, at least not without the mod at the connector.
> 
> As evidenced by their product line and reputation in the community
> 
> EK's strong suit is machining and block design . . . .
> 
> We know from the Ascendacy, that electronics is not.
> 
> Darlene


I'll try to get one for myself and put this guessing game to rest.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GiraffePencils*
> 
> So, I will have to have a mod to work the pump,
> Is there a thread about the mod?
> what is it I'd need to do?


See these posts:

http://www.overclock.net/t/1474470/ocn-aquaero-owners-club/40_40#post_21956203

http://www.overclock.net/t/1474470/ocn-aquaero-owners-club/40_40#post_21956489


----------



## nyck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakewat*
> 
> So, you can't buy the passive heatsink for the AQ5 here in NZ and why waste the money when you can just make one. It's a little rough at the moment but it should work perfectly with some thermal pads. I tapped the hole with M3 thread so that I can get a nice tight compression. What do you guys think?
> http://s1354.photobucket.com/user/Jakewat97/media/temporary_zps64c90e8c.jpg.html
> http://s1354.photobucket.com/user/Jakewat97/media/temporary_zpsbb91f775.jpg.html


yes but you need to use different thicknesses of the thermal pads because the original heatsink have 2 different heights.
I use an heatsink homemade in my aquaero 6 xt in addition to original heatsink, but my job was much easier because both surfaces were flat, for do this i used an old heatsink of an intel pentium III that i cut, drill, and with 2 screw and thermal grease i fit it to the original heatsink. sorry for my english


----------



## jagdtigger

Count me in







:

Aquacomputer aquaero 6 XT


----------



## GiraffePencils

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> See these posts:
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1474470/ocn-aquaero-owners-club/40_40#post_21956203
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1474470/ocn-aquaero-owners-club/40_40#post_21956489


Thanks, I'm assuming this mod will also work on an Aquaero 5?


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GiraffePencils*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> See these posts:
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1474470/ocn-aquaero-owners-club/40_40#post_21956203
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1474470/ocn-aquaero-owners-club/40_40#post_21956489
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks, I'm assuming this mod will also work on an Aquaero 5?
Click to expand...

Keep in mind that the A5 has only 1 PWM capable channel, where the A6 has all 4 PWM capable, and selectable between voltage or PWM control.

That said . . . .

The A5 sorta works sometimes with the PWM D5 pumps as it comes out of the box . . . about a 50 / 50 crap shoot. Might work today but not tomorrow kinda thing.

There's no reason that that mod shouldn't work on the A5 to make it 100% reliable with a PWM D5 on its PWM capable channel.

Darlene


----------



## GiraffePencils

Well I've only got the pump that's pwm, also I won't have the screen on display, so I thought there was little reason to get an A6.
also the savings arent to be shunned


----------



## Jakewat

How could I connect this to my aquero 5? Or do I have to get a custom female to female fan cable made, as they don't tend to exist.
http://s1354.photobucket.com/user/Jakewat97/media/temporary_zpse696c55a.jpg.html


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakewat*
> 
> How could I connect this to my aquero 5? Or do I have to get a custom female to female fan cable made, as they don't tend to exist.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> http://s1354.photobucket.com/user/Jakewat97/media/temporary_zpse696c55a.jpg.html


I would have thought that it would have come with one.
Here:
http://www.performance-pcs.com/modmytoys-4-pin-pwm-female-to-4-pin-female-extension-cable-black-24-sleeved.html
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/23515/cab-1946/ModMyToys_4-Pin_PWM_Female_to_4-Pin_Female_PWM_Cable_Adapter_-_12_-_Sleeved_Black_MMT-FC-44-12BKS.html
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/23516/cab-1947/ModMyToys_4-Pin_PWM_Female_to_4-Pin_PWM_Female_Cable_Adapter_-_24_-_Sleeved_Black_MMT-FC-44-24BKS.html

edit:
Keep in mind that modmytoys PCBs, for whatever the reason, have the tach signal live to all of the headers which means all the fans will reporting the rpm signal which will cause fan speed reporting issues. What you need is only one fan reporting fan speed so that the rpm is actually readable by the aquaero or mobo. Many people will mod the pcb by scratching through the rpm signal trace on the back of the pcb after only one outlet header - not sure if that's easy or even possible with that two column pcb like you had pictured - or by snipping off the tach pin from all but one of the outlet headers, or modifying the fan cables, etc.


----------



## Jakewat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> edit:
> Keep in mind that modmytoys PCBs, for whatever the reason, have the tach signal live to all of the headers which means all the fans will reporting the rpm signal which will cause fan speed reporting issues. What you need is only one fan reporting fan speed so that the rpm is actually readable by the aquaero or mobo. Many people will mod the pcb by scratching through the rpm signal trace on the back of the pcb after only one outlet header - not sure if that's easy or even possible with that two column pcb like you had pictured - or by snipping off the tach pin from all but one of the outlet headers, or modifying the fan cables, etc.


I got bought the aquero off someone and they gave me the fan hub with it, now I know that he forgot to add the cable. Well I found this cable which has a 4pin F at one end then goes; 4pin M, 4pin M, 3pin F. Sort of a weird pwm splitter, but I was thinking could I use this as the power cable and at one of the 4pin male inputs plug in one of the fans then cut the tach line coming in from the hub and just use the rpm readout from the fan plugged into that male input?
bad pic but just for reference


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakewat*
> 
> I got bought the aquero off someone and they gave me the fan hub with it, now I know that he forgot to add the cable. Well I found this cable which has a 4pin F at one end then goes; 4pin M, 4pin M, 3pin F. Sort of a weird pwm splitter, but I was thinking could I use this as the power cable and at one of the 4pin male inputs plug in one of the fans then cut the tach line coming in from the hub and just use the rpm readout from the fan plugged into that male input?
> bad pic but just for reference


That looks like it could be an Aquabus splitter rather than a fan cable. Also the boards like the one above are good for Aquabus and RGB splitting too, and the all 4 connections present is needed for that.


----------



## Trestles126

My a6 does not shut down with the pc. It dims should i be worried about it getting worn out?how do I prevent this?


----------



## Mega Man

most fan splitters ( unless there have been a new rev iirc the grid is ok as it is made poorly { no offense NZXT your a great company }) do not connect the RPM ( yellow ) wire so this would not be practical

the post i was referring too is gone ?!??

@Trestles126 this is normal it draws power from 5v standby


----------



## Squeaks5635

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Trestles126*
> 
> My a6 does not shut down with the pc. It dims should i be worried about it getting worn out?how do I prevent this?


Mine does this too. I believe it has to do with the charging even when the computer is off option that the USB hub has. I think you can turn this feature off in the BIOS not sure if you can turn it off for certain USB hubs or not. I just leave mine on dim since I still want my mouse and keyboard to charge while the computer is off.

I have a gigabyte GA-X79-UD3 and it has this feature. I don't think it should be a problem though.

That's my guess.


----------



## Shoggy

This is normal and the aquaero was also designed this way. The standby activity allows to turn on the PC by timer events or with the remote control.


----------



## dseg

I want to have 2 x Aquacomputer G1/4 Flow Meter Sensor Block
Does the AQ6 support two as I only see one outlet "Flow" on the back.


----------



## jagdtigger

According to the manual its possible to configure the FAN1 connector to be used with a flow sensor.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dseg*
> 
> I want to have 2 x Aquacomputer G1/4 Flow Meter Sensor Block
> Does the AQ6 support two as I only see one outlet "Flow" on the back.


I think you can use a Y-split cable to connect both. But not sure if you can change the bus address of the flow meter in the non-usb version. In any case you can connect one to the flow and the other to the high speed aquabus port?


----------



## Shoggy

Te regular flow sensors have no aquabus and therefor of course also no aquabus ID etc. As stated by jagdtigger the second sensor can be connected to fan port 1 *AFTER* it has been configured as flow sensor port.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> Te regular flow sensors have no aquabus and therefor of course also no aquabus ID etc. As stated by jagdtigger the second sensor can be connected to fan port 1 *AFTER* it has been configured as flow sensor port.


thank you for the clarification. I keep mixing the two versions in one bag since I have both...I always forgot the 3 pin the non-usb version is not a aquabus port. my bad.


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dseg*
> 
> I want to have 2 x Aquacomputer G1/4 Flow Meter Sensor Block
> Does the AQ6 support two as I only see one outlet "Flow" on the back.


For the 3 pin meter you can connect one to the flow port and fan header 1 can be configured as a second flow port. Alternatively each poweradjust adds a flow meter port up to a maximum of 8 off the top of my head.
The USB versions can be connected via Aquabus, but there is a maximum of four MPS devices, which includes flow meters, pumps and pressure sensors. Alternatively the USB versions can be used as standalone devices and effectively an unlimited number can be connected but the USB cable must be connected all the time and the alarm / shutdown functions of the Aquaero are not possible when Aquabus is not used.


----------



## Pierre3400

Hey guys, i am hoping someone can help me with my Aquaero 6 Pro.

I have use to run aquaero 5 LT, without issues, now that i upgraded and re built my system, all hell has broken lose!

Heres how my setup is right now.

I have 2x Alphacool PWM D5 pumps. They have been hooked up to run of the same PWM cable. This means PWM cable is shared between both the pumps, and the RPM is running signal from only one of the pumps.

They are also put together to run off the same Molex. The pumps run, and the Aquaero shows almost 3000rpm on the pumps. I am unable to adjust the pumps down at all, this is the same using the Motherboard PWM or the Aquaero, they will only run 3000rpm???

Now, I have 8 GT AP15s on my bottom Rad and 6x 140mm Phantek fans on my Top rad.

When i plug in the PWM between the Aquareo for both hubs, nothing happens, the Volts show up on in Aquaero suit, but thats about, they are set for PWM, but nothing.

The same setup I ran with my Aquaero 5 LT on the one PWM it had, so i simply cannot understand that the heck is going on!


----------



## MrStrat007

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pierre3400*
> 
> Hey guys, i am hoping someone can help me with my Aquaero 6 Pro.
> 
> I have use to run aquaero 5 LT, without issues, now that i upgraded and re built my system, all hell has broken lose!
> 
> Heres how my setup is right now.
> 
> I have 2x Alphacool PWM D5 pumps. They have been hooked up to run of the same PWM cable. This means PWM cable is shared between both the pumps, and the RPM is running signal from only one of the pumps.
> 
> They are also put together to run off the same Molex. The pumps run, and the Aquaero shows almost 3000rpm on the pumps. I am unable to adjust the pumps down at all, this is the same using the Motherboard PWM or the Aquaero, they will only run 3000rpm???
> 
> Now, I have 8 GT AP15s on my bottom Rad and 6x 140mm Phantek fans on my Top rad.
> 
> When i plug in the PWM between the Aquareo for both hubs, nothing happens, the Volts show up on in Aquaero suit, but thats about, they are set for PWM, but nothing.
> 
> The same setup I ran with my Aquaero 5 LT on the one PWM it had, so i simply cannot understand that the heck is going on!


D5 PWM pumps do not follow the Intel standard and lack a 5volt pullup internally. As such, its a 50/50 "they might/might not work" situation with the Aquaero 5, and they don't work with the Aquaero 6 without a pullup mod on the cable. Doing the pullup mod as detailed in this thread can solve this problem.
About the fans - AP15's are voltage controlled fans, not PWM controlled fans, and as such cannot be controlled via PWM. Set your fan headers (At least for the GT's) to voltage control.


----------



## Pierre3400

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrStrat007*
> 
> D5 PWM pumps do not follow the Intel standard and lack a 5volt pullup internally. As such, its a 50/50 "they might/might not work" situation with the Aquaero 5, and they don't work with the Aquaero 6 without a pullup mod on the cable. Doing the pullup mod as detailed in this thread can solve this problem.
> About the fans - AP15's are voltage controlled fans, not PWM controlled fans, and as such cannot be controlled via PWM. Set your fan headers (At least for the GT's) to voltage control.


Can you direct me to the mod?

And your understanding corrctly with the PWM.

I am well aware that they are not PWM, non of my fans are, but the Hubs are PWM controlled, mening the PWM signal will regulate the voltage on the fans, its worked before, flawlessly, it has to work again.


----------



## MrStrat007

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pierre3400*
> 
> Can you direct me to the mod?
> 
> And your understanding corrctly with the PWM.
> 
> I am well aware that they are not PWM, non of my fans are, but the Hubs are PWM controlled, mening the PWM signal will regulate the voltage on the fans, its worked before, flawlessly, it has to work again.


See Darlene's post Here

What PWM hubs are you using? The ones integrated with the Phanteks cases?


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pierre3400*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *MrStrat007*
> 
> D5 PWM pumps do not follow the Intel standard and lack a 5volt pullup internally. As such, its a 50/50 "they might/might not work" situation with the Aquaero 5, and they don't work with the Aquaero 6 without a pullup mod on the cable. Doing the pullup mod as detailed in this thread can solve this problem.
> About the fans - AP15's are voltage controlled fans, not PWM controlled fans, and as such cannot be controlled via PWM. Set your fan headers (At least for the GT's) to voltage control.
> 
> 
> 
> Can you direct me to the mod?
> 
> And your understanding corrctly with the PWM.
> 
> I am well aware that they are not PWM, non of my fans are, but the Hubs are PWM controlled, mening the PWM signal will regulate the voltage on the fans, its worked before, flawlessly, it has to work again.
Click to expand...

Here's the links to Darlene's D5 pull up mod (edit: ninja'd by MrStrat







)...
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *GiraffePencils*
> 
> So, I will have to have a mod to work the pump,
> Is there a thread about the mod?
> what is it I'd need to do?
> 
> 
> 
> See these posts:
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1474470/ocn-aquaero-owners-club/40_40#post_21956203
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1474470/ocn-aquaero-owners-club/40_40#post_21956489
Click to expand...

But if you are interested in using the mod for the Phanteks hub I don't think it's going to work. The pull up mod works (ar at as I think I understand it thanks to Darlene) is only because Laing's implementation of PWM on the D5 is non-standard in that it does not include a resistor that allows for a 5v (which PWM devices see as a 100% duty cycle) to be pulled from the 12V supply feed in the instance that the PWM signal is disconnected. I hope I have that right or something close to it. If not I suspect Darlene will set me straight.

Anywho, the way the Phanteks hub works (or doesn't) is a bit different and there's reasons why causes issues for some motherboards. The Phanteks Club thread is filled with LOTS of posts from people who found out the hard way the hub doesn't work right for them no matter what they do and even for those who do manage to get it to work there's many complaints about not geting very much range of control or clicking fans and whatnot else. The hub is using the PWM signal from the header to then modulate the 12v from the same header proportional to the pwm duty signal. It works fine for many motherboards and and for others it just does not.

If you are trying to use the Phanteks hub on the Aquaero it shouldn't surprise anyone at all if it doesn't work at all or if it worked on an AQ5 but not on an AQ6 or vice versa as the differences between the Aquaero 5 and Aquaero 6 are not minor.

Honestly that Phanteks hub and how it works is a bit of a hack anyway. Even if the hub did work like it was supposed to I wouldn't use it on any of my fans. Some voltage-controlled fans don't like to be controlled by modulating the current (at least in the way the hub does which I assume is similar to what many cheap fan controllers do, modulating the current without any filters / capacitors or whatever would be needed to smooth the current out so it's not just switching the 12v on and off rapidly) and many fan manufacturers recommend against it. For example Nidec (the manufacturer of almost all of my fans) says that pwm modulation of 12v current to control fan speed can damage &/or shorten the life of a fan.

http://www.swiftech.com/pwmcontrollers.aspx
Quote:


> There is an excellent reference article written by Dave at overclockers.com that explains how PWM works.
> 
> Excerpt from the article:
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> There are PWM controllers and there are PWM fans, but the way in which PWM is implemented in each differs greatly: a standard PWM controller modulates the 12 V supply line of an "ordinary" 12 VDC motor. Conversely a PWM controller for PWM fans - such as the one featured in this article - doesn't modulate the 12V supply line but instead sends a PWM signal along a different supply line (the magic "fourth wire") to a more advanced 12 VDC motor, leaving the 12 V supply line uninterrupted. Designated PWM fans not only have internal circuitry which differs from that of standard fans, but because they are designed with speed control in mind the motors themselves are usually more advanced (and expensive). So, PWM speed control of a standard fan is indeed very different from PWM speed control of a PWM fan&#8230; *Nidec even goes so far as to say that modulating the main supply voltage is not advisable*:
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Pulse-width modulation of DC operating voltage to modify fan speed [edit: in PWM devices] is not recommended. Transients generated by that approach can irreversibly damage motor commutation and control electronics and dramatically shorten the life of a fan.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
Click to expand...


----------



## Pierre3400

The pumps are connected to the Aquaero, the hubs are ONLY for my fans.

But this:

I've tried it on a single and a dual D5 setup and it works satisfactorily with pullups optimized for each case, and it's dead nuts simple, though not exactly elegant.

At issue is that the D5 needs a fairly "strong" pullup, (lower resistance) . . . while the A6 works best with weaker pullups, (higher resistance).

This setup uses the 12V available from the first 2 of the 4 PWM fan pins on each channel of the A6.

The Zener diode and larger resistor form a 5V regulated source that the smaller resistor connects the PWM line to.

The diode is a 5.1V Zener diode, and the larger resistor, the 1/2 W one, is a 560 Ohm, but 470, 680, 820, or 1K will work as well. 1K may be the easiest to find.

Be sure you have the Zener diode polarity connected as in the pic.

The smaller resistor, 1/4 W, is a 2.2K which I'd suggest for a dual D5 setup, but for a single D5, a 3.3K would be fine.

The smaller size, 1/6W or 1/8W are electrically OK, but the smaller physical size makes lead breakage more of an issue, so stay with 1/4W.

Everything shown is available from RadioShack.

Doesnt make a lot of sense for me? What the heck is an A6? Whats pullups? I just dont understand this, it may be simple for him, but not for me.


----------



## Squeaks5635

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pierre3400*
> 
> Doesnt make a lot of sense for me? *What the heck is an A6?* Whats pullups? I just dont understand this, it may be simple for him, but not for me.


Sorry, this was a little funny since this is the Aquaero Owners Club.

A6 ==> Aquaero 6 XT or Aquaero 6 Pro


----------



## Pierre3400

I see that now, but it doesnt make that much sense still.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pierre3400*
> 
> The pumps are connected to the Aquaero, the hubs are ONLY for my fans.
> 
> But this:
> 
> I've tried it on a single and a dual D5 setup and it works satisfactorily with pullups optimized for each case, and it's dead nuts simple, though not exactly elegant.
> 
> At issue is that the D5 needs a fairly "strong" pullup, (lower resistance) . . . while the A6 works best with weaker pullups, (higher resistance).
> 
> This setup uses the 12V available from the first 2 of the 4 PWM fan pins on each channel of the A6.
> 
> The Zener diode and larger resistor form a 5V regulated source that the smaller resistor connects the PWM line to.
> 
> The diode is a 5.1V Zener diode, and the larger resistor, the 1/2 W one, is a 560 Ohm, but 470, 680, 820, or 1K will work as well. 1K may be the easiest to find.
> 
> Be sure you have the Zener diode polarity connected as in the pic.
> 
> The smaller resistor, 1/4 W, is a 2.2K which I'd suggest for a dual D5 setup, but for a single D5, a 3.3K would be fine.
> 
> The smaller size, 1/6W or 1/8W are electrically OK, but the smaller physical size makes lead breakage more of an issue, so stay with 1/4W.
> 
> Everything shown is available from RadioShack.
> 
> Doesnt make a lot of sense for me? What the heck is an A6? Whats pullups? I just dont understand this, it may be simple for him, but not for me.


The A6 is the Aquaero6, as A5 would be an older Aquaero5 . . .just a shorthand way of referring to them.

Pullups are resistors that connect an electrical point in a circuit to a positive voltage level.

Intel developed a PWM standard for PC fans that specifies parameters like frequency, voltage levels, and current maximums etc.

According to that standard, the controlled device, ie the fan or pump, is to have an internal pullup resistor that brings the PWM line to either 3.3V or 5V.

The controlling device, ie the Aquaero or the mobo, only has to connect the PWM line to ground for intervals at the prescribed frequency.

It's actually the pullup voltage on the PWM line supplied by the controlled device that creates the actual presence of pulses.

The PWM D5 pumps do not have that internal pullup, so in order for them to work with some type of PWM controller, the controller itself has to have the pullup, which is outside of the Intel spec.

The Intel spec does not specify that the controller has to have a pullup, since it specifies the pullup to be in the device to be controlled.

It would not surprise me to find out that what, if any, pullups are present in the Phanteks hub.

My guess is none, or a very poor excuse for one.

The way some hubs work with some mobos, is much like how some PWM D5's work with some mobos.

Some mobos have some level of internal pullup for the PWM line, even though the Intel spec does not require it.

It's kind of a might be a helpful thing, and can't really be a harmfully thing, so they go ahead and do it.

The A6, on the other hand, follows the spec, in that it has no internal pullup resistor bringing the PWM pin to 5V.

That's why it doesn't work with the PWM D5, and probably why it doesn't work with the Phanteks hubs, while both may have worked from the mobo CPU header.

This is the pic of the mod that can be made to the D5's 4 pin connector that allows it to work fine with the A6:

This one was actually for a dual D5 setup, so you can see 2 green wires in the PWM pin position, but just 1 blue tach wire in the tach pin position.



Here's a pic of the same mod done on a Swiftec PWM splitter cable with the heatshrink pulled back for visuals . . the power wires are removed and the 3 components are installed as in the pic above.



Darlene


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pierre3400*
> 
> The pumps are connected to the Aquaero, the hubs are ONLY for my fans.
> 
> But this:
> 
> I've tried it on a single and a dual D5 setup and it works satisfactorily with pullups optimized for each case, and it's dead nuts simple, though not exactly elegant.
> 
> At issue is that the D5 needs a fairly "strong" pullup, (lower resistance) . . . while the A6 works best with weaker pullups, (higher resistance).
> 
> This setup uses the 12V available from the first 2 of the 4 PWM fan pins on each channel of the A6.
> 
> The Zener diode and larger resistor form a 5V regulated source that the smaller resistor connects the PWM line to.
> 
> The diode is a 5.1V Zener diode, and the larger resistor, the 1/2 W one, is a 560 Ohm, but 470, 680, 820, or 1K will work as well. 1K may be the easiest to find.
> 
> Be sure you have the Zener diode polarity connected as in the pic.
> 
> The smaller resistor, 1/4 W, is a 2.2K which I'd suggest for a dual D5 setup, but for a single D5, a 3.3K would be fine.
> 
> The smaller size, 1/6W or 1/8W are electrically OK, but the smaller physical size makes lead breakage more of an issue, so stay with 1/4W.
> 
> Everything shown is available from RadioShack.
> 
> Doesnt make a lot of sense for me? What the heck is an A6? Whats pullups? I just dont understand this, it may be simple for him, but not for me.


You have an Aquaero 6, you don't need the junk Phantecs controllers any more. Just use ordinary splitters that get power from the Aquaero like
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/16455/cab-971/ModRight_Black-Out_Series_3-Pin_to_6x_3-Pin_Y_Cable_Splitter_-_39.html?tl=g47c251s274
or even
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/23517/ele-1301/4-Pin_PWM_Power_Distribution_PCB_8x_Way_Block_MMT-PCB-8P-44P.html?tl=g47c121s424


----------



## Mega Man




----------



## natsu2014

Due to Black Friday I bought AQ5 LT and just now I realized that it doesn't come with passive heatsink... My question is - will I be able to run 7 fans on lower rpm without it? 4 of those are Noctua Industrial, as for the rest of them I still have no idea what will I use. There will be cold air blowing from fan to controller if that helps with answering.
Thanks a lot


----------



## Mega Man

the lower the volts you use the more heat is produced with the aq5


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *natsu2014*
> 
> Due to Black Friday I bought AQ5 LT and just now I realized that it doesn't come with passive heatsink... My question is - will I be able to run 7 fans on lower rpm without it? 4 of those are Noctua Industrial, as for the rest of them I still have no idea what will I use. There will be cold air blowing from fan to controller if that helps with answering.
> Thanks a lot


It all depends on how much power the fans use. I have had 4 Corsair SP120 High speed fans at low volts on each channel of an Aquaero 5 pro and it was fine. I'm sure 2 per channel without the heatsink would probably be ok. They are relatively low power draw fans though even for their high speed.
Something like the same number of high speed Noiseblocker fans starts to become too hot even with the air sink.

The Noctua industrial sound high power draw and would need to be run at very low volts for quiet operation. The only way you will know is to try it and see but I would just get the air sink anyway. I think its odd to sell a resistance fan controller without one.


----------



## MrStrat007

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *natsu2014*
> 
> Due to Black Friday I bought AQ5 LT and just now I realized that it doesn't come with passive heatsink... My question is - will I be able to run 7 fans on lower rpm without it? 4 of those are Noctua Industrial, as for the rest of them I still have no idea what will I use. There will be cold air blowing from fan to controller if that helps with answering.
> Thanks a lot


I believe the Noctua industrial fans are all PWM fans no? If this is the case just get a PWM splitter like that from Swiftech and plug them into the PWM Fan channel on the AQ5. Power comes straight from the PSU and only RPM/PWM is directed to/from the A5, respectively.

Edit: if they are the 3-pin model (only 1/4 of the industrial models is this way), they draw 0.1 amps per fan (continuous draw?) according to their website.


----------



## RoverVampire

3 simple question before I boot up for the first time.

Can I connect two 'high flow sensors' to the aquaero's low aquabus with a y cable. Or should they be connected to either 'high aquabus' or 'flow' only? They are also connected via usb so I can afford not to use this connection at all if not compatible.

Can I connect tubemeter to 'flow' or should they be connected to 'low aquabus only?

Can I initiate the boot with both usb and aquabus cables connected for aquaero and other devices?

Please help as I am eagerly waiting before pressing the power button for the first time. Thanks.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RoverVampire*
> 
> 3 simple question before I boot up for the first time.
> 
> Can I connect two 'high flow sensors' to the aquaero's low aquabus with a y cable. Or should they be connected to either 'high aquabus' or 'flow' only? They are also connected via usb so I can afford not to use this connection at all if not compatible.
> 
> Can I connect tubemeter to 'flow' or should they be connected to 'low aquabus only?
> 
> Can I initiate the boot with both usb and aquabus cables connected for aquaero and other devices?
> 
> Please help as I am eagerly waiting before pressing the power button for the first time. Thanks.


which version of the high flow meter do you have? The USB version? If so you can connect both to the high aquabus port using a Y. They are not compatible with the low aquabus. Check the manual of the Aquaero and a list of devices compatible with aquabus is there. The low Aquabus is for old devices like the tubemeter. Tubemeter goes on the low aquabus. Yes, you can begin boot with usb and aquabus cables and then set priority on Aquasuite for whatever you want to use.


----------



## RoverVampire

Thanks and yes. I read the booklet and it guides precisely as you say. But as I had already connected the cables, i was hoping to get away with it. So I assume the answer is no. I will just disconnect the aquabus cables from flow meter usb later and connectthe tubemeter to low aquabus.


----------



## Pierre3400

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> The A6 is the Aquaero6, as A5 would be an older Aquaero5 . . .just a shorthand way of referring to them.
> 
> Pullups are resistors that connect an electrical point in a circuit to a positive voltage level.
> 
> Intel developed a PWM standard for PC fans that specifies parameters like frequency, voltage levels, and current maximums etc.
> 
> According to that standard, the controlled device, ie the fan or pump, is to have an internal pullup resistor that brings the PWM line to either 3.3V or 5V.
> 
> The controlling device, ie the Aquaero or the mobo, only has to connect the PWM line to ground for intervals at the prescribed frequency.
> 
> It's actually the pullup voltage on the PWM line supplied by the controlled device that creates the actual presence of pulses.
> 
> The PWM D5 pumps do not have that internal pullup, so in order for them to work with some type of PWM controller, the controller itself has to have the pullup, which is outside of the Intel spec.
> 
> The Intel spec does not specify that the controller has to have a pullup, since it specifies the pullup to be in the device to be controlled.
> 
> It would not surprise me to find out that what, if any, pullups are present in the Phanteks hub.
> 
> My guess is none, or a very poor excuse for one.
> 
> The way some hubs work with some mobos, is much like how some PWM D5's work with some mobos.
> 
> Some mobos have some level of internal pullup for the PWM line, even though the Intel spec does not require it.
> 
> It's kind of a might be a helpful thing, and can't really be a harmfully thing, so they go ahead and do it.
> 
> The A6, on the other hand, follows the spec, in that it has no internal pullup resistor bringing the PWM pin to 5V.
> 
> That's why it doesn't work with the PWM D5, and probably why it doesn't work with the Phanteks hubs, while both may have worked from the mobo CPU header.
> 
> This is the pic of the mod that can be made to the D5's 4 pin connector that allows it to work fine with the A6:
> 
> This one was actually for a dual D5 setup, so you can see 2 green wires in the PWM pin position, but just 1 blue tach wire in the tach pin position.
> 
> 
> 
> Here's a pic of the same mod done on a Swiftec PWM splitter cable with the heatshrink pulled back for visuals . . the power wires are removed and the 3 components are installed as in the pic above.
> 
> 
> 
> Darlene


Thank you, know it all makes more sense, as to why its not working.

Now, i DONT live in the states, and i dont have access to a Radioshack, When i, as a novice walk into a shop that sells the resisters and that (i know a shop) what do i ask for, so i dont sound like a complete moron!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> You have an Aquaero 6, you don't need the junk Phantecs controllers any more. Just use ordinary splitters that get power from the Aquaero like
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/16455/cab-971/ModRight_Black-Out_Series_3-Pin_to_6x_3-Pin_Y_Cable_Splitter_-_39.html?tl=g47c251s274
> or even
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/23517/ele-1301/4-Pin_PWM_Power_Distribution_PCB_8x_Way_Block_MMT-PCB-8P-44P.html?tl=g47c121s424


Negative!
First of all, theres a limit to how many fans you can connect (3pin) to the Aquaero, theres a reason you can get heasinkts and watercooling for them, im not hooking 8 fans to one output like a moron, I know that the limit on A5 is 3 fans without heatsink, i spoke to Aqua Computers about this, before i bought my A5.

Second, thats just stupid, i didnt spend hours sorting the wires all nice to my hub to start moving them now, just not ever going to happen, i just need to make this PWM mod 3 times over, and all should be solved, and that is the easy way out, redoing 2hours wiring work, resleeving and what not, just aint going to happen.


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pierre3400*
> 
> Negative!
> First of all, theres a limit to how many fans you can connect (3pin) to the Aquaero, theres a reason you can get heasinkts and watercooling for them, im not hooking 8 fans to one output like a moron, I know that the limit on A5 is 3 fans without heatsink, i spoke to Aqua Computers about this, before i bought my A5.
> 
> Second, thats just stupid, i didnt spend hours sorting the wires all nice to my hub to start moving them now, just not ever going to happen, i just need to make this PWM mod 3 times over, and all should be solved, and that is the easy way out, redoing 2hours wiring work, resleeving and what not, just aint going to happen.


So, are we talking about an aquaero 5 or 6. You mentioned a 6 before.
The aquero 6 has no trouble powering many more than 8 fans per header without any cooling at all.
The 5 will have no trouble running 8 gt's and half a dozen phantecs fans as long as the air sink is fitted too.

If we are talking about a 6 then using those dumb phantecs things is just silly. Using an expensive, capable, voltage/pwm controller to supply a pwm signal to cheap controller boards to convert back to voltage control that are designed to get around problems and limitations the aquaero 6 does not have.

As has been said already those type of controllers are noisy and unreliable. Every time there is a post or video about fans that supposedly click or buzz when udervolted it is because they are using a version of that control method.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pierre3400*
> 
> First of all, theres a limit to how many fans you can connect (3pin) to the Aquaero, theres a reason you can get heasinkts and watercooling for them, *im not hooking 8 fans to one output like a moron, I know that the limit on A5 is 3 fans without heatsink*, i spoke to Aqua Computers about this, before i bought my A5.


What?









What kind of fans will 3 of them come anywhere close to the AQ5's 20w per channel rating? Are we talking some kind of Delta high speed fans?

lol, I run 16 Gentle Typhoon AP-45s, split eight fans each on two channels of my Aquaero 5 LT (each channel controls the fans on each of the 480 rads). That rig runs 24/7 and most of the time the fans are idling at ~900rpms. AP-45s are 0.123amp rated so 8 of them comes to 12 watts on each channel of the AQ5 which is rated to 20 watts w/o a heatsink/waterblock, and fwiw I do have the heatsink on it but it doesn't make that much of a difference. The AQ5 handles it no problem.

Just wait, I'm currently working on my next build which will be running 44 AP-15s and AP-45s on an Aquaero 6.


----------



## MrStrat007

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pierre3400*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Snip
> 
> 
> 
> The pumps are connected to the Aquaero, the hubs are ONLY for my fans.
> 
> But this:
> 
> I've tried it on a single and a dual D5 setup and it works satisfactorily with pullups optimized for each case, and it's dead nuts simple, though not exactly elegant.
> 
> At issue is that the D5 needs a fairly "strong" pullup, (lower resistance) . . . while the A6 works best with weaker pullups, (higher resistance).
> 
> This setup uses the 12V available from the first 2 of the 4 PWM fan pins on each channel of the A6.
> 
> 
> 
> The Zener diode and larger resistor form a 5V regulated source that the smaller resistor connects the PWM line to.
> 
> The diode is a *5.1V Zener diode*, and the larger *resistor, the 1/2 W one, is a 560 Ohm*, but *470, 680, 820, or 1K will work as well*. 1K may be the easiest to find.
> 
> Be sure you have the Zener diode polarity connected as in the pic.
> 
> The smaller *resistor, 1/4 W, is a 2.2K* which I'd suggest for a *dual D5* setup, but for a *single D5*, a *3.3K* would be fine.
> 
> The smaller size, 1/6W or 1/8W are electrically OK, but the smaller physical size makes lead breakage more of an issue, so stay with 1/4W.
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Snip!
> 
> 
> 
> Everything shown is available from RadioShack.
> 
> Doesnt make a lot of sense for me? What the heck is an A6? Whats pullups? I just dont understand this, it may be simple for him, but not for me.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pierre3400*
> 
> Thank you, know it all makes more sense, as to why its not working.
> 
> Now, i DONT live in the states, and i dont have access to a Radioshack, When i, as a novice walk into a shop that sells the resisters and that (i know a shop) what do i ask for, so i dont sound like a complete moron!
> 
> Negative!
> *First of all, theres a limit to how many fans you can connect (3pin) to the Aquaero*, theres a reason you can get heasinkts and watercooling for them, *im not hooking 8 fans to one output like a moron*, I know that the *limit on A5 is 3 fans without heatsink*, i spoke to Aqua Computers about this, before i bought my A5.
> 
> Second, *thats just stupid, i didnt spend hours sorting the wires all nice to my hub to start moving them now, just not ever going to happen*, i just need to make this PWM mod 3 times over, and all should be solved, and that is the easy way out, redoing 2hours wiring work, resleeving and what not, just aint going to happen.


As per the product page: *Four fan outputs with up to 30 Watt of power per channel* See here. AP-15's draw 0.083 amps per fan. At 12V, this equates to 1 Watt. Running 8 AP-15's on one header would only draw 8 Watts, less than half the maximum for the AQ5 alone, and barely over 1/4 of the maximum load per channel. Whoever told you a 3-fan limit max, I'm sorry to say, was grossly misinformed. The only way that would be the case is if you were powering 4000 RPM Deltas that draw 0.5 amps each, or 6 Watts per fan.

Secondly. Why buy a top-notch fan controller and run it through a crummy hub that's not working properly anyway? That's like buying a $1000 pair of headphones and powering them with onboard. Or buying a Ferrari engine and connecting it to the transmission in a fiat.







I could go on.

This hobby takes time, like any other. You don't need to resleeve anything, and the PWM mod is not guaranteed to solve your problem with the fan hub anyway, it is EXPRESSLY for the pumps only!


----------



## Shoggy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RoverVampire*
> 
> Can I connect two 'high flow sensors' to the aquaero's low aquabus with a y cable. Or should they be connected to either 'high aquabus' or 'flow' only? They are also connected via usb so I can afford not to use this connection at all if not compatible.
> 
> Can I connect tubemeter to 'flow' or should they be connected to 'low aquabus only?
> 
> Can I initiate the boot with both usb and aquabus cables connected for aquaero and other devices?


For the flow sensors you have to use an aquabus y-adapter and you also have to change the aquabus ID of one of these sensors because otherwise the aquaero will not detect them. The aquabus ID can be changed in the system tab of the software when the sensor is connected via USB.

The tubemeter can be only connected to the aquabus lowspeed port with a special aquabus cable. By the way: the support of the aquabus lowspeed port will end with the firmware 2000 for the aquaero which is around the corner. So maybe use USB for it from the start before you have to rewire everything again.

USB and aquabus on the flow sensors can stay connected at the same time.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> (...) of the AQ5 which is rated to 20 watts w/o a heatsink/waterblock (...)


That is not correct. The 20W limit for the aquaero 5 (no matter which variant) is the absolute maximum which is impossible to reach without additional cooling. 20W will be no problem if you run the connected stuff with 12V since this will cause almost no heat but as soon as you slow it down it will cause a lot of heat. For the aquaero 6 this does not matter since it works very different.


----------



## Jakewat

Quick question: could I use this cable to connect this fan hub to my AQ5, and then have one of the fans on the male header next to the molex in order to view the rpm of that fan? (using 4 GT1450's)
http://s1354.photobucket.com/user/Jakewat97/media/temporary_zpsf4896315.jpg.html


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> (...) of the AQ5 which is rated to 20 watts w/o a heatsink/waterblock (...)
> 
> 
> 
> That is not correct. The 20W limit for the aquaero 5 (no matter which variant) is the absolute maximum which is impossible to reach without additional cooling. 20W will be no problem if you run the connected stuff with 12V since this will cause almost no heat but as soon as you slow it down it will cause a lot of heat. For the aquaero 6 this does not matter since it works very different.
Click to expand...

Hmmm, I'm scratching my head as to what's "not correct" about what I wrote. As far as I can tell we both were saying the exact same thing.


----------



## VSG

20w with no additional cooling needed vs 20w being the max limit with a heatsink and waterblock on?


----------



## Shoggy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Hmmm, I'm scratching my head as to what's "not correct" about what I wrote. As far as I can tell we both were saying the exact same thing.


You wrote 20W per channel which is right as the outer maximum but not true with regard to your statement that this can be reached without additional cooling.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> 20w with no additional cooling needed vs 20w being the max limit with a heatsink and waterblock on?


Well, if that's the case and the max is 20w per channel only with a waterblock or heatsink then all of Aquacomputer's product documentation is incorrect.

The manual that came with my AQ5 LT says it's rated to "19.8 W (1.65 A at 12 V) for each channel" but doesn't say anything about needing an additional heatsink or waterblock to achieve that. However, the heatsink which I purchased separately does say that it "_increases the maximum power output of the fan channels_."





I'm not wrong in thinking the AQ5 is rated to a max of 20w (or 19.8w) per channel without any additional heatsink, and that adding an additional heatsink or waterblock should increase that, and if that's not the case Shoggy ought to be working to amend all of their advertising and product documentation instead of correcting someone in forums for stating what their manuals and advertising on their site says about their products.


----------



## VSG

Yeah I can see where you are coming from as well. The wording leaves it to the user's interpretation.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

I can't see how it could even be open to any other interpretation. That's what it says. If Shoggy's going to say that my repeating it "is not correct", then what he's really saying is their manual for the AQ5 and advertising for the heatsink "is not correct".


----------



## Shoggy

You have not highlighted the important thing about the dynamic limitation which is based on the temperature. As I wrote before you can get the 20W without a heatsink but it is not practical because normally you would run the fans at lower speeds which causes higher temperatures.

If we take this sentence about the temperature from the aquaero manual, the description of the heatsink becomes true: it will increase the power output since it lowers the temperature. This heatsink is an option for the aquaero 5 LT only since the PRO and XT variant are already equipped with it. So a 5 LT user will benefit from a higher power output for sure.

As geggeg said: it depends on how one interprets the whole thing.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> You have not highlighted the important thing about the dynamic limitation which is based on the temperature. *As I wrote before you can get the 20W without a heatsink but it is not practical because normally you would run the fans at lower speeds which causes higher temperatures.*
> 
> If we take this sentence about the temperature from the aquaero manual, the description of the heatsink becomes true: it will increase the power output since it lowers the temperature. This heatsink is an option for the aquaero 5 LT only since the PRO and XT variant are already equipped with it. So a 5 LT user will benefit from a higher power output for sure.
> 
> As geggeg said: it depends on how one interprets the whole thing.


But there's nothing in the sentence saying that "_Maximum power is dynamically limited through temperature monitoring_" that would infer that one shouldn't or wouldn't be able to achieve the rated maximum capacity without the heatsink or waterblock. There's no amount of interpretation that could possibly lead anyone to think such a thing would be the case. If that is true don't you think it should explicitly say so in the manual? And the advertising for the heatsink should say that it will 'allow you to possibly achieve the Aquaero 5's rated maximum of 20 watts per channel' instead of saying that it "_increases the maximum output of the channels_".

No one who bought an AQ5 would have anything to make them think that the "_maximum output of the channels_" the heatsink is supposed to allow them to increase is referring to anything other than the "_Maximum power output 19.8 W_" that the manual that came with their AQ5 says it is.


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakewat*
> 
> Quick question: could I use this cable to connect this fan hub to my AQ5, and then have one of the fans on the male header next to the molex in order to view the rpm of that fan? (using 4 GT1450's)
> http://s1354.photobucket.com/user/Jakewat97/media/temporary_zpsf4896315.jpg.html


Those boards only have the 12v and ground wires connected on the PCB. No rpm connection. Its quite easy to mod it so that two rpm pins are connected though.
But yes, it will work as you suggest, 4pin pwm female connected to aquaero, fan connected to female fan connector, molex to PCB. Then any fans connected to the board will get the same volts as the fan on the male header. Non pwm fans only though of course.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> But there's nothing in the sentence saying that "_Maximum power is dynamically limited through temperature monitoring_" that would infer that one shouldn't or wouldn't be able to achieve the rated maximum capacity without the heatsink or waterblock. There's no amount of interpretation that could possibly lead anyone to think such a thing would be the case. If that is true don't you think it should explicitly say so in the manual? And the advertising for the heatsink should say that it will 'allow you to possibly achieve the Aquaero 5's rated maximum of 20 watts per channel' instead of saying that it "_increases the maximum output of the channels_".
> 
> No one who bought an AQ5 would have anything to make them think that the "_maximum output of the channels_" the heatsink is supposed to allow them to increase is referring to anything other than the "_Maximum power output 19.8 W_" that the manual that came with their AQ5 says it is.


Yeah it is true and not true. This is why I don't understand ever selling a resistance controller without a heat sink. Sure the 5lt can output 20w at 12v but as soon as you want to use less than 12v it starts to heat and the thermal throttling kicks in so the fans will try to run at the lower speed you want then kick back to full speed over and over again.
Even with the heat sink a few high speed eloops on each channel will have the controller speeding up and down. GT's and Sp120 are much better in that they use less power though so you can get more on.


----------



## Jakewat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> Those boards only have the 12v and ground wires connected on the PCB. No rpm connection. Its quite easy to mod it so that two rpm pins are connected though.
> But yes, it will work as you suggest, 4pin pwm female connected to aquaero, fan connected to female fan connector, molex to PCB. Then any fans connected to the board will get the same volts as the fan on the male header. Non pwm fans only though of course.


Thanks for the reply,
Yeah I realised the PCB only has ground and 12v connected, but I was told having the rpm readout for all the fans coming from the fan hub caused readout issues so I don't need the rpm from the PCB anyway. I just needed to make sure It was fine to have one fan coming off the male connecter considering it's in series, and that I would be able to get the rpm from that single fan as a reference for the others.


----------



## jagdtigger

Greetings







.

Can someone explain to me how in the hell can i change the factory front panel to the black one on a6 XT?


----------



## Pierre3400

All i can say is, I contacted AquaCompuers before i bought my A5 LT, and asked what i could do. I said needed to Run GT AP'15s on it, and they replied Maximum 3 without extra cooling.
I wish i had the email saved to show you guys, since apparently im fully wrong on this one.

The point will still remain, that all my wiring IS done, all the wires are sleeved to correct length, and im no changing them unless i get paid to do it.


----------



## Pierre3400

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrStrat007*
> 
> Secondly. Why buy a top-notch fan controller and run it through a crummy hub that's not working properly anyway? That's like buying a $1000 pair of headphones and powering them with onboard. Or buying a Ferrari engine and connecting it to the transmission in a fiat.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I could go on.


Thats just ignorant and wrong.

The reason i have the A6 is because i like the way i can adjust it, make a curve to follow my water temp. Whether i took it all up to the A6 or my Hubs is the same result, identical result. The only difference between my A5 and A6, is the A6 refusng to work with the hubs, but i'm going to try the mod, and if that works, then all i solved.

The way you compare is 100% messed up. Because im not losing anything by using the hubs, im just not stressing my A6, because the power is coming from the molex and not the A6. So you may look at it how you want, but i see it completly different from you, and your logic in my view on the hubs, is just plane wrong.

Using the hub is like sticking upgraded and strengthened con rods into your engine, to make it last longer.


----------



## jagdtigger

"the A6 refusng to work with the hubs"
You dont need them... My 180mm Fans using twice much amps at 12V than yours and the VRM's are under 30 °C (and they running at the bare minimum RPM so the VRM's have work to do). Even if you hook up 10 of them to the same CH thats less than 1A. The max is 2,5 so you would be pretty much in the safe zone.


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pierre3400*
> 
> Thats just ignorant and wrong.
> 
> Using the hub is like sticking upgraded and strengthened con rods into your engine, to make it last longer.


Or like driving around in a Ferrari, but strapped to the back of a crappy old truck so it isn't stressed.









The hubs are not the same thing as using the Aquaero and aren't any sort of upgrade. Instead of nice smooth voltage or proper PWM signal control the fans get a poor mans hybrid of both. 12V turned on and off to approximate the same overall power level as less volts. Switching creates noise and reduces the accuracy and range of speed control.

As has already been said it can either not work properly with fans or can be bad for them and nothing needs to be changed but the hub itself, no re-sleeving involved.


----------



## MrStrat007

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pierre3400*
> 
> Thats just ignorant and wrong.
> 
> The reason i have the A6 is because i like the way i can adjust it, make a curve to follow my water temp. Whether i took it all up to the A6 or my Hubs is the same result, identical result. The only difference between my A5 and A6, is the A6 refusng to work with the hubs, but i'm going to try the mod, and if that works, then all i solved.
> 
> The way you compare is 100% messed up. Because im not losing anything by using the hubs, im just not stressing my A6, because the power is coming from the molex and not the A6. So you may look at it how you want, but i see it completly different from you, and your logic in my view on the hubs, is just plane wrong.
> 
> Using the hub is like sticking upgraded and strengthened con rods into your engine, to make it last longer.


But you are losing something, obviously, since they (hubs) aren't controlling your fans whatsoever







you have the power but have no, or a very poor at best, way of transmitting it, this my analogy is quie correct. if you had actual hubs that worked, then you would be right. The A6 has plenty more power than what your 5 or 7 fans require, you're hardly "stressing it". Not to mention reducing the lifespan of your fans with those hubs as has been shown by numerous people, including Nidec Servo themselves iirc.

"The point will still remain, that all my wiring IS done, all the wires are sleeved to correct length, and im no changing them unless i get paid to do it."

You don't need to resleeve anything! Just get a proper hub(s) that works and isn't a poor hybrid substitute that's causing you more problems.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> Or like driving around in a Ferrari, but strapped to the back of a crappy old truck so it isn't stressed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The hubs are not the same thing as using the Aquaero and aren't any sort of upgrade. Instead of nice smooth voltage or proper PWM signal control the fans get a poor mans hybrid of both. 12V turned on and off to approximate the same overall power level as less volts. Switching creates noise and reduces the accuracy and range of speed control.
> 
> As has already been said it can either not work properly with fans or can be bad for them and nothing needs to be changed but the hub itself, no re-sleeving involved.


This.


----------



## Squeaks5635

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jagdtigger*
> 
> Greetings
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> 
> Can someone explain to me how in the hell can i change the factory front panel to the black one on a6 XT?


Funny you posted this as I was looking for this information when I did the swap yesterday.

Take the 4 screws holding the faceplate off and pull the front display straight off. There are a set of pins on the right side that hold it on after the screws are off and you wouldn't want to break them.

Once the piece is off you can see that it is actually a combination of the metal plate and a sensor board. This is where I had an issue, The plate is glued on to the board and you have to be careful to remove it. I had to use a razor knife to get between the board and the faceplate on the side near the IR receiver. Once I got one edge started it came up easy after that.

Once you get the old one off its easy from there, just put the new one on and bolt it back up.

Side note. I took my faceplate off while the aquaero still had power but the computer was off and when I put it back on the front lights and keypads did not work. I cycled the power supply and when it came back on everything was perfect. Hope this helps, and you got your information before anything may have been broken.

JT


----------



## jagdtigger

Thanks







. I asked google about this but no info on the net(or im just clumsy...) thats why i brought it up here. Its better to be safe than sorry







.

/EDIT
I have a Laing DDC-Pumpe 12V DDC-1Plus and wondering which output can be used to power it(fan vs pwm)?


----------



## Jakewat

So when using one of these with my AQ5, should I scratch out the rpm line here to avoid any rpm readout issues?
http://s1354.photobucket.com/user/J...9-4b32-a00f-7762628fa181_zps3af8360a.jpg.html


----------



## VSG

Or just cut out the RPM tach sensor on all but one of the channels? That's what I did with the NZXT Grid thanks to Unicr0nhunter's tip.


----------



## Jakewat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Or just cut out the RPM tach sensor on all but one of the channels? That's what I did with the NZXT Grid thanks to Unicr0nhunter's tip.


Well I just thought scratching out the line that leads to the rest would be a bit quicker


----------



## Mega Man

it will, it looks like someone scratched out the pwm on one of the fans


----------



## Jakewat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> it will, it looks like someone scratched out the pwm on one of the fans


Haha, that was me just testing how deep I would have to go to get through the channel.

And a quick setup of my mount for the AQ. It's just on a piece of acrylic I really quickly cut and tapped, which will be hidden so I'm not worried.
Also a quick question, which way do temp sensors plug in? there is no coloured wires, so all I can go off is dupont flat side up or down.


----------



## jagdtigger

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakewat*
> 
> Also a quick question, which way do temp sensors plug in? there is no coloured wires, so all I can go off is dupont flat side up or down.


Because its a simple resistor(thermistor/RTD, not shore which one is used...), it has no polarity...


----------



## MrPT

Fullcover for AQ5 from liquidextasy.de


----------



## Mega Man

can we get a link, for me everything but engrish is a bit rusty :/

nice find though


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *MrPT*
> 
> Fullcover for AQ5 from liquidextasy.de
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> can we get a link, for me everything but engrish is a bit rusty :/
> 
> nice find though
Click to expand...

+1

It doesn't appear to be on their site or facebook page. I hopefully will be buying one of these just as soon as I can find out where / how to go about doing so.


----------



## RoverVampire

Has anyone tried the aquasuite with windows 10 enterprise trial? It crashes everytime and many things are not accessible. Will the 2000 version support it?


----------



## Pierre3400

The zener 5.1v diode, has not marked with a W rating, where i can buy them, they have many different ones, which is the correct one to use?

I have Zener diode 5.1 0.5W or 1.3W. Whcih one should i use?


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pierre3400*
> 
> The zener 5.1v diode, has not marked with a W rating, where i can buy them, they have many different ones, which is the correct one to use?
> 
> I have Zener diode 5.1 0.5W or 1.3W. Whcih one should i use?


You can use any of them, as you don't need more than 1/2 W.

The advantage of the 1W or 1.3W or 1.5W may be that they are likely a slightly larger physical package and therefor a bit more robust and less fragile.

Those are 1W in the pics, the 1/2W ones are smaller with rather thin lead wires.

The 1W ones seemed to work well at keeping the bits physically together nicely.

Darlene


----------



## iBored

Need clarification. Does the flow sensor on the Aq6 works with daisy chaining?


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iBored*
> 
> Need clarification. Does the flow sensor on the Aq6 works with daisy chaining?


Which flow sensor mate? model? Aquacomputer high flow USB or the non-usb version?


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iBored*
> 
> Need clarification. Does the flow sensor on the Aq6 works with daisy chaining?


If you are talking about the 3 pin flow header. No. Of talking about aquabus yes. But there is a limit ( on mobile and can't look it up ) to how many of each dev you can daisy chain


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

OK that AQ5 full cover waterblock is up now on liquidextasy.de

http://www.liquidextasy.de/component/content/article/7-news/231-aquaero-5-lt-wasserk%C3%BChler.html

I want one!

Unfortunately I can't figure out how to order one.


----------



## VSG

Here you go: http://www.liquidextasy.de/mb-wasserkuehler/spezialkuehler/wasserk%C3%BChler-aquaero-5-lt-detail.html


----------



## RoverVampire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iBored*
> 
> Need clarification. Does the flow sensor on the Aq6 works with daisy chaining?


I have the same question. As well as can it be daisy chained in 'high aquabus' as well as 'flow' connectors?


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RoverVampire*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *iBored*
> 
> Need clarification. Does the flow sensor on the Aq6 works with daisy chaining?
> 
> 
> 
> I have the same question. As well as can it be daisy chained in 'high aquabus' as well as 'flow' connectors?
Click to expand...

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *iBored*
> 
> Need clarification. Does the flow sensor on the Aq6 works with daisy chaining?
> 
> 
> 
> If you are talking about the 3 pin flow header. No. Of talking about aquabus yes. But there is a limit ( on mobile and can't look it up ) to how many of each dev you can daisy chain
Click to expand...

home now so

http://aquacomputer.de/handbuecher.html?file=tl_files/aquacomputer/downloads/manuals/aquaero_5_6_en_2014_04_14.pdf

page 45


----------



## iBored

So if I had two loops with one of these in each loop, I can't daisy chain them to a single aq6?

http://shop.aquacomputer.de/product_info.php?products_id=2294

Thanks for clearing it up!


----------



## Mega Man

i could be wrong but IIRC fan 1 can be reconfigured to a flow header ( MUST BE DONE BEFORE HOOKING IT UP )

*edit page9

http://aquacomputer.de/handbuecher.html?file=tl_files/aquacomputer/downloads/manuals/aquaero_5_6_en_2014_04_14.pdf


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iBored*
> 
> So if I had two loops with one of these in each loop, I can't daisy chain them to a single aq6?
> 
> http://shop.aquacomputer.de/product_info.php?products_id=2294
> 
> Thanks for clearing it up!


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> i could be wrong but IIRC fan 1 can be reconfigured to a flow header ( MUST BE DONE BEFORE HOOKING IT UP )
> 
> *edit page9
> 
> http://aquacomputer.de/handbuecher.html?file=tl_files/aquacomputer/downloads/manuals/aquaero_5_6_en_2014_04_14.pdf


this ^^. One of those high flow non usb goes to the flow port and the other should go to fan channel 1 configured to be a flow sensor header.


----------



## iBored

Nice! It will work with any flow sensor right?
Even one of these bitspower thingys LINK??


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iBored*
> 
> Nice! It will work with any flow sensor right?
> Even one of these bitspower thingys LINK??


Sort of yes, and no. The standard flow port just counts electrical pulses and it can be adjusted so the the pulses equate to an accurate flow rate. The problem is there is a limit to how far it can be adjusted. The aquacomp meters used a system where every full rotation of the paddle is two pulses. I believe the bitspower ones each turn is a single pulse. The result is a much lower number of pulses per litre and the Aquaero just can't be adjusted that far.

Plus those Bitspower things are prone to leaking and excess noise.


----------



## Pierre3400

I did the mods on my pumps and also both the PWM hubs, and now everything works like a charm.


----------



## iCrap

I wired up an RGB light to my RGB port of the aquero 6 and it does nothing... well only the RED works. any ideas? The connections are all fine..


----------



## iBored

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> Sort of yes, and no. The standard flow port just counts electrical pulses and it can be adjusted so the the pulses equate to an accurate flow rate. The problem is there is a limit to how far it can be adjusted. The aquacomp meters used a system where every full rotation of the paddle is two pulses. I believe the bitspower ones each turn is a single pulse. The result is a much lower number of pulses per litre and the Aquaero just can't be adjusted that far.
> 
> Plus those Bitspower things are prone to leaking and excess noise.


Thanks for the info!


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iCrap*
> 
> I wired up an RGB light to my RGB port of the aquero 6 and it does nothing... well only the RED works. any ideas? The connections are all fine..


Did you use the right type of LED? It is a common cathode type and designed for just the right power. Using a common annode type or different power will cause problems


----------



## iCrap

ah
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> Did you use the right type of LED? It is a common cathode type and designed for just the right power. Using a common annode type or different power will cause problems


Yup ... I bought a common annode. Whoops!

So what do i need to get.. common cathode?
https://www.superbrightleds.com/moreinfo/through-hole/5mm-rgb-clear-tricolor-led-wide-angle/977/


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iCrap*
> 
> ah
> Yup ... I bought a common annode. Whoops!
> 
> So what do i need to get.. common cathode?
> https://www.superbrightleds.com/moreinfo/through-hole/5mm-rgb-clear-tricolor-led-wide-angle/977/


As in the manual common cathode, 3 - 4V, 20mA


----------



## Shoggy

The aquasuite 2015 version 1.0 is available now. This version is also the starting shot for the new farbwerk controllers. Its dispatching will start today.

The current version can be downloaded from our website.

*ATTENTION*
After a firmware update of the aquaero 5 and 6 as well as the aquaduct mk 4 and 5 XT series a downgrade is not possible.
*With the aquaero firmware 2000 the lowspeed aquabus port will not work anymore!* This means a tubemeter or multiswitch can not be connected to the aquaero anymore. If this function is necessary for you, then do not perform an update now or in the future.

*NOTE*
Existing profiles can not be reused because of several changes in the internal structure. For the overview pages the data sources for the fans and outputs must be reassigned.
The rest of this post means the aquaero 5 and 6 when mentioning aquaero and the aquaduct mk 4 and 5 XT when mentioning aquaduct.

*Changelog for the aquasuite software*


New: support for farbwerk controller
New: profiles which are stored in the aquaero or aquaduct can be loaded and managed through the aquasuite software
New: pressure data of corresponding mps devices when connected via aquabus are available for the overview pages now

Change: outputs of an aquaero/aquaduct like PWM, relay, LED, connected pumps etc. have been grouped and unified
Change: new layout for the aquaero and aquaduct demo pages

Bugfix: key tone for the aquaero and aquaduct can be set again
Bugfix: when adding new data to a chart a new axis was generated; data of the same type will be grouped now
Bugfix: in the overview it was not possible to get a screenshot of the desktop when old Windows designs were used
Bugfix: when data of bargraphs or pointer instruments were changing fast there was a memory leak and a lot of RAM has been used
Bugfix: if a D5 pump was connected to an aquaero via aquabus the power was shown with a wrong unit
Bugfix: using fonz size 0 in the overview pages caused the program to crash
Bugfix: the uninstall routine in Windows program management was not working

Aqua Computer Windows Service: values of AIDA64 are read through WMI and shared memory now - depends on which source is available
*Changelog for firmware of the aquaero and aquaduct*


New: support for farbwerk controller
New: all sensors and outputs can be used with individual names
New: the profiles which are stored in the device can be loaded directly through the main menu
New: the PID controller works with a new algorithm and allows a better temperature control
New: up to four revised RGB controller
New: pumps are working in automatic mode by default
New: fan outputs and poweradjust devices that are connected via aquabus will work at 100% power when they are not assigned to a controller
New: the alarm of an aquabus connected D5 pump can be processed by the aquaero
New: an aquabus connected aquastream XT can be used as an output in the controller settings

Change: for pumps the frequency has been exchanged with percent and rotational speed
Change: amount of entries for the timer has been reduced from 32 to 16
Change: amount of entries for the alarm levels have been reduced from eight to four
Change: lowspeed aquabus port disabled

Bugfix: measurements of temperature values above 90°C were partially shown with too high values
Bugfix: uploading an own image to the device was not possible
Bugfix: rendering of the curve controller within the device was messed up when the temperature started with a negative value
Bugfix: when a sensor which was assigned to an alarm has been removed, the corresponding alarm did not work anymore
Besides the listed points there are several other small corrections and changes. The listed points are the main changes.

A lot of code has been changed and although we did tests there is still a chance that something does not work as expected. If you find errors, please let us know and write them down here in the thread or drop us an e-mail.


----------



## IT Diva

Wooooooo Hooooooooo




















































Is the Firmware 2000 part of the Aquasuite 2015 download and could you run us thru the procedure on how to have the latest firmware on a new A6 to work with the AS 2015.

I have 2 new A6's for the next chiller build, and I'd like to have the farbwerk controller as a lighting option.

Can you walk us thru the new firmware/Aquasuite install please?

Thanks in advance,

Darlene


----------



## Shoggy

Just install the aquasuite like any other program and it will force you to perform an update anyway since you can not use an old firmware with a newer aquasuite release and vice versa.


----------



## Jakusonfire

Its working well. Very nice to have Aquabus D5 RPM's instead of just a power setting value that only worked if pump was set to Aquabus priority. Charts are back to making sense again.

The Auto control setting for D5's ... how does that work? It seems to just run the pump at 100% and there is no data source to give it.
The doubling up of the D5 settings in outputs/Pumps and Pumps is a bit confusing ... Changing the minimum speed setting in one tab changes it in the other but if "hold min power" box is checked it does not transfer to the other tab and min power will not be held unless boxes are checked on both tabs


----------



## RoverVampire

Emergency help please. I cannotstart the computer after firmware upgrade of aquaero to 2000. I installed the 2015 version aquasuite and it prompted for firmware upgrade. The display now shows 2000 but the computer wont start. I set the aquaero to factory default. Mother board standy lights are all there. Some issue with relay? Why is aquaero stopping the computer?

I see in the outpit settings after setting to factory default, under the pump it is blank. The fan, flow, relay, rgb all have some output from min to max, but the pump is just blank. Is this how it should be?

My two aquacomputer xt ultra pumps, two high flow usb and the tubemeter are all connected to usb. Apart from tubemeter all derive power via molex directly from psu although they are all daisy chained to aquaero via high aquabus as well. Relay from the power to motherboard (green cable) is connected to 1st and 3rd points. Fan channels 1,2 and 4 are occuoied with multiple fans. 6 temp sensors connected to aquaero and two more to mps each. One sensor appears to be damaged as it shows 40c when all others show 20c. Rgb light and aquaero to mb via usb connected. These setup were working fine upuntil the firmware upgrade.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RoverVampire*
> 
> Emergency help please. I cannotstart the computer after firmware upgrade of aquaero to 2000. I installed the 2015 version aquasuite and it prompted for firmware upgrade. The display now shows 2000 but the computer wont start. I set the aquaero to factory default. Mother board standy lights are all there. Some issue with relay? Why is aquaero stopping the computer?


try disconnecting the relay and see if starts?


----------



## RoverVampire

Yes. Disconnected at the mother board side and connected psu to mb directly. The relay is stillconnected to aquaero. It booted and now stuck ar bios.


----------



## RoverVampire

All fine now. But is this a configuration issue? Y did the relay cause trouble when it worked before and how to reconnect it so that it will work.


----------



## RoverVampire

When the aquacomputer xt ultra pump is connected to the usb and aquabus, the manual mentions that the pump aquabus could be configured to act as a flow sensor in the aquasuite. Could the cable still be connect to high aquabus or should it be connected to either 'flow' or fan1 configured as flow sensors?


----------



## NE0XY

Sorry if this has been answered before but I don't need pwm fans to use this right? Non pwm works aswell? I'm using Noctua NF-A14 iPPC-2000 140/120mm and they're quite loud to have spinning when not gaming etc and I'm getting tired of manually finding the 7.0 volts on my fan controller which is as low as I've been able to get them to go without turning of completely.
Will I be able to get them lower with the aquaero or is 7 volts the magical line?

Thanks =)


----------



## Mega Man

as to PWM

no voltage or PWM both can be done ! ( from different headers AQ5 = 1 pwm/voltage header, 3=voltage only headers, AQ6 all 4 headers PWM OR voltage headers )

as to how low - this is a fan thing not a controller thing- although the controller may help most likely it wont however many fans will start at a higher voltage and be able to undervolt lower once started, ( they have a feature where the fans will be fed "x" volts for "y" seconds


----------



## NE0XY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> as to PWM
> 
> no voltage or PWM both can be done ! ( from different headers AQ5 = 1 pwm/voltage header, 3=voltage only headers, AQ6 all 4 headers PWM OR voltage headers )
> 
> as to how low - this is a fan thing not a controller thing- although the controller may help most likely it wont however many fans will start at a higher voltage and be able to undervolt lower once started, ( they have a feature where the fans will be fed "x" volts for "y" seconds


Thank you =)

When I start the computer the fans all go on max speed for a couple of secs before they go to the setting I've put them on, but if that setting is lower than 7 volt they stop spinning after a while. So migh be that these fans need alot of power?


----------



## Mega Man

correct that will vary with different fans but most fans are ~ 6v min starting voltage


----------



## NE0XY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> correct that will vary with different fans but most fans are ~ 6v min starting voltage


Thanks alot =)
I might upgrade to an aquaero then =)


----------



## Squeaks5635

Does anyone know why the flow indication is not available as a sensor for controller configuration.

I am trying to set up a controller for my pumps on fan channel one to control the speed based on the flow rate. I can't seem to be able to do this.

Also, on a side note The EK DDC pumps do work with the pwm on the A6 but they work a little weird, They are at max speed at 65% output on PWM. any adjustments above 65% have no effect, but below that they control fine, just a little different than the pwm control I have been used to with the fans. Is this normal? it is not causing any issues just wondering.


----------



## VSG

The PWM ddc pumps have a short duty cycle, so maxing out at 65% is perfectly normal.


----------



## fast_fate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Squeaks5635*
> 
> Does anyone know why the flow indication is not available as a sensor for controller configuration.
> 
> I am trying to set up a controller for my pumps on fan channel one to control the speed based on the flow rate. I can't seem to be able to do this.
> *
> Sorry - Can't offer any advice/assistance on the flow sensor*
> 
> Also, on a side note The EK DDC pumps do work with the pwm on the A6 but they work a little weird, They are at max speed at 65% output on PWM. any adjustments above 65% have no effect, but below that they control fine, just a little different than the pwm control I have been used to with the fans. Is this normal? it is not causing any issues just wondering.
> 
> *BUT the EK PWM DDC is of great interest to me.
> I have 2 of the pumps ordered to go into a rig where I will be wanting 100% power.
> How have you got your pump/s wired up ??
> PSU Power, extension or splitters ??
> Can anybody confirm that 65% is max achievable - I hope this is not the case*


----------



## VSG

F_F: Nothing to do with EK necessarily.


----------



## MrStrat007

Fastfate- what they are referring to is 65% pwm, not 65% power. The 35x has a PWM response curve that only registers changes between ~20-65%. Within that range, 65% pwm duty cycle = 100% power on the pump, and 20ish % being minimum power.

I believe IT Diva (Darlene) has documented this pretty well and a few others.

Edit: ninja'd by geggeg


----------



## fast_fate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> F_F: Nothing to do with EK necessarily.


Cool - didn't intend to point any fingers.
Just an alarm bell went off with me.
was just starting to do research on it (which I shoul;d have done before ordering) but you saved me the effort.
Cheers









EDIT - Thanks Strat, info appreciated
I did realize that PWM was being discussed, but didn't realize that around 65% was the duty cycle limit or where no increase was observed.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fast_fate*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Squeaks5635*
> 
> Does anyone know why the flow indication is not available as a sensor for controller configuration.
> 
> I am trying to set up a controller for my pumps on fan channel one to control the speed based on the flow rate. I can't seem to be able to do this.
> *
> Sorry - Can't offer any advice/assistance on the flow sensor*
> 
> Also, on a side note The EK DDC pumps do work with the pwm on the A6 but they work a little weird, They are at max speed at 65% output on PWM. any adjustments above 65% have no effect, but below that they control fine, just a little different than the pwm control I have been used to with the fans. Is this normal? it is not causing any issues just wondering.
> 
> *BUT the EK PWM DDC is of great interest to me.
> I have 2 of the pumps ordered to go into a rig where I will be wanting 100% power.
> How have you got your pump/s wired up ??
> PSU Power, extension or splitters ??
> Can anybody confirm that 65% is max achievable - I hope this is not the case*
Click to expand...

he is not stating it only goes to 65% rpm, he is stating @65% pwn SIGNAL the pump is at 100%rpm


----------



## fast_fate

I am calm again.
Thanks guys


----------



## Squeaks5635

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> he is not stating it only goes to 65% rpm, he is stating @65% pwn SIGNAL the pump is at 100%rpm


This ^

Sorry for the confusion, but glad to see all the responses about this. However, I would really like to see the responses about the flow rate sensor used in a controller for the pumps.


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fast_fate*
> 
> I am calm again.
> Thanks guys


LOL

Not for long though, the first Oz-India test begins next week


----------



## fast_fate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> LOL
> 
> Not for long though, the first Oz-India test begins next week


*RIP Phillip Hughes*

I place my bat out in respect


----------



## VSG

Aye


----------



## fast_fate

I have a quick question about Aq5 and fan channel 4 when set at PWM

Is my tach signal on Aq5 channel 4 not working, OR does it drop out when using PWM ?

I hooked a fan up to check PWM function was working while waiting for the pumps to arrive.
Full range of PWM control available with power from both Aq5 and from PSU.
But no rpm signal with either.
I connected the fan to channel 3 and got rpm signal using both type of power for the fan.
Then I connected the fan back onto channel 4 for PWM control but placed the tach wire onto channel 3 which gave me rpm. (tried both power source for fan with same result.)


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Squeaks5635*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> he is not stating it only goes to 65% rpm, he is stating @65% pwn SIGNAL the pump is at 100%rpm
> 
> 
> 
> This ^
> 
> Sorry for the confusion, but glad to see all the responses about this. However, I would really like to see the responses about the flow rate sensor used in a controller for the pumps.
Click to expand...

Generally speaking, pump speed is a set and forget kinda thing.

Once you have enough flow rate to produce turbulent flow in the blocks and rads, increasing it much more doesn't net increasingly better temps.

The only knee in the curve is when flow rate drops below what's needed for turbulent flow. . . Then the temps take a big jump.

Controlling fan speeds on the rads has a much greater effect so far as maintaining some kind of temp delta setpoint.

I've tried working with pump speed control in a water cooled setup before, and found no useful benefit to it.

That said, I am going to be experimenting with pump speed temp controlagain, this time on the chiller build that I'm getting parts in for now, but that's a much different case, as when the chiller trips on from high delta t, the rad fans all get powered down, so pump speed for the cold loop and the warm loops is what's there to work with to maintain temp right above dew point.

I'm not sure the AC flow meter can work as a controller, but I use the Koolance flow meters that have an output that reads like fan RPM on a display . . . it actually reads ml per minute

One GPM is right about 3800 ml/m so I can set a fan curve based on the ml/m flow rate to control the PWM output to control my pump speeds.

Darlene


----------



## Squeaks5635

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Generally speaking, pump speed is a set and forget kinda thing.
> 
> Once you have enough flow rate to produce turbulent flow in the blocks and rads, increasing it much more doesn't net much better temps.
> 
> *The only knee in the curve is when flow rate drops below what's needed for turbulent flow.*
> 
> Controlling fan speeds on the rads has a much greater effect so far as maintaining some kind of temp delta setpoint.
> 
> I've tried working with pump speed control in a water cooled setup before, and found no useful benefit to it.
> 
> Darlene


Yes this is very true and I understand the point. I am trying to run the pumps as low as possible for noise reasons and would like them to be controlled based on flow because I expect the flow at the given rpms to drop as time goes on especially with the filter I have installed in my loop, and I would prefer to operate at the lower threshold of turbulent flow. Granted, I have no experience with water cooling loops prior to the one I fired up today so I don't really know if this is even going to be a problem after I clean the first few days worth of trash from the rads gets caught on the filter.

Side note I did experience a dip in flow today but it was because a flexible tube in the lower section of the case that is out of sight kinked itself. I guess when it heated up or started flowing. But this would be another instance I would like the pumps to speed up if the flow drops. I will eventually have to notice the pump speed increased (i would probably hear it) but in the meantime flow would hopefully be restored.

You are 100% right with the chiller the pump flow will have an impact, and I would think it to be significant.

Either way I am not sure how difficult it would be for them to enable this sensor to be used with a controller, but hopefully they will add it in the future.

Thanks for the response.


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fast_fate*
> 
> I have a quick question about Aq5 and fan channel 4 when set at PWM
> 
> Is my tach signal on Aq5 channel 4 not working, OR does it drop out when using PWM ?
> 
> I hooked a fan up to check PWM function was working while waiting for the pumps to arrive.
> Full range of PWM control available with power from both Aq5 and from PSU.
> But no rpm signal with either.
> I connected the fan to channel 3 and got rpm signal using both type of power for the fan.
> Then I connected the fan back onto channel 4 for PWM control but placed the tach wire onto channel 3 which gave me rpm. (tried both power source for fan with same result.)


Mine works fine with both ( A5 Pro )

On the flow meter for controller thing aquacomp have said they dont see it as a useful feature.
I agree really. An alarm would really be more useful.


----------



## fast_fate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> Mine works fine with both ( A5 Pro )


Hmm - as suspected then - non-working tach signal on Aq5 fan ch4








Thanks Jak


----------



## iCrap

i updated my Aquasuite, and then it told me to update the firmware. so all my settings are gone








I had an exported settings file from before the upgrade but it dosen't work... so i just have to redo EVERYTHING again?


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iCrap*
> 
> i updated my Aquasuite, and then it told me to update the firmware. so all my settings are gone
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I had an exported settings file from before the upgrade but it dosen't work... so i just have to redo EVERYTHING again?


Yep. Shoggy warned about it in his post when he let us known the new version of Aquasuite is out.


----------



## iCrap

Oh well... I already redid my settings mostly.

I am trying to have different lighting profiles for day and night (enabling different LEDs via the power outputs). Is there an easy way to toggle between different lighting profiles? maybe by system time or something?


----------



## jagdtigger

You can use the timer function to load different profiles at a given time...


----------



## nyck

hello,I want to report a small defect,after that i installing the last firmwere (2000) and i configured the device, when i renamed a programmable key as " EVENT LOG" I noticed that there is a bug in the "G" letter. I don't know if with the old firmwere this small bug was present, because the name don't was this.

I write this...


and the device show this.


----------



## aaroc

With the new firmware the RGB connector is still working? I have the RGB PCB bought from a member of the Aquaero forum and dont want to loose the ability to use it.


----------



## nyck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *aaroc*
> 
> With the new firmware the RGB connector is still working? I have the RGB PCB bought from a member of the Aquaero forum and dont want to loose the ability to use it.


I use one original rgb led connected to my aquaero 6 xt and it works well.Moreover, the range of possible colors is wider.


----------



## Shoggy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> The Auto control setting for D5's ... how does that work? It seems to just run the pump at 100% and there is no data source to give it.
> The doubling up of the D5 settings in outputs/Pumps and Pumps is a bit confusing ... Changing the minimum speed setting in one tab changes it in the other but if "hold min power" box is checked it does not transfer to the other tab and min power will not be held unless boxes are checked on both tabs


Other than the aquastream XT the D5 has no special logic for its speed/frequency so the automatic mode just means 100%. We added this option to get a unified configuration style for everything.

We will look into the problem with the minimum power. It seems that the boxes are not synchronized which would be a bug of course.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RoverVampire*
> 
> When the aquacomputer xt ultra pump is connected to the usb and aquabus, the manual mentions that the pump aquabus could be configured to act as a flow sensor in the aquasuite. Could the cable still be connect to high aquabus or should it be connected to either 'flow' or fan1 configured as flow sensors?


No, how should that work? You have only one port that can act as aquabus OR connector for a flow sensors. I also have the bad feeling you have something stupid in mind when you mention "fan1". You can not connect the aquabus/flow port of the aquastream to fan channel 1 of the aquaero.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Squeaks5635*
> 
> Does anyone know why the flow indication is not available as a sensor for controller configuration.


Only temperature values can act as an input for the controllers.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nyck*
> 
> hello,I want to report a small defect,after that i installing the last firmwere (2000) and i configured the device, when i renamed a programmable key as " EVENT LOG" I noticed that there is a bug in the "G" letter.


We will look into that. Since we have not changed anything on the internal font set it must have been faulty since a few years without anyone noticing it







If the letter really looks that ugly it will be fixed of course.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *aaroc*
> 
> With the new firmware the RGB connector is still working? I have the RGB PCB bought from a member of the Aquaero forum and dont want to loose the ability to use it.


Yes, of course.


----------



## MrPT

Hey, i wonder is there any easy way like ctrl+c/ctrl+v to copy already exists curve controller or i have to make new one point by point same like existed one ?


----------



## Shoggy

No, that is not possible.


----------



## Kounty01

Has anyone tried aquasuite on windows 10 yet? I can get it installed fine but keeps crashing when I select a tab.

For a laugh I should post the "MVP" response on the Microsoft community discussion.


----------



## deeph

Hi there,
Just a quick question, can I run RGB led with Aquaero 5 LT and configure that led to follow the temperature (ie. CPU temp, green is cold, yellow is mild, red is hot) with breathing effect?

deeph


----------



## T0B5T3R

yes u can

http://shop.aquacomputer.de/images/product_images/popup_images/34930.jpg

I also use this module


----------



## deeph

Thanks, I'm looking forward for the 5 LT.


----------



## RoverVampire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kounty01*
> 
> Has anyone tried aquasuite on windows 10 yet? I can get it installed fine but keeps crashing when I select a tab.
> 
> For a laugh I should post the "MVP" response on the Microsoft community discussion.


I tried a lot to make it work with windows 10 as well. Many of my crucial programs would not work. Asus AI suite, Corsair link, Aquaero are a few to name. Installing GTX 980 with old drivers was a headache. After all this, aquaero would not allow certain functions of the aquasuite in windows 10 and any attempt to configure would lead to a crash.


----------



## RoverVampire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> No, how should that work? You have only one port that can act as aquabus OR connector for a flow sensors. I also have the bad feeling you have something stupid in mind when you mention "fan1". You can not connect the aquabus/flow port of the aquastream to fan channel 1 of the aquaero.
> 
> My bad. I interpreted wrongly that the aquabus of the aquacomputer xt ultra pump can be reconfigured as a flow sensor output, where as it can be changed to flow sensor input. Am I right now?
> 
> And the aquaero can receive flow sensor signals (from say high flow usb) through either 'flow' or 'fan 1'.
> Can the 'high flow usb' be connected to 'high' aquabus of aquaero to read the flow signals? and can two of them be daisy chained along with two pumps?


----------



## Kounty01

Thanks for the reply I gave up I have been getting zero support from the microsoft forum or whatever its called and even less from aqua computer they didn't even what to try to help.


----------



## Shoggy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RoverVampire*
> 
> My bad. I interpreted wrongly that the aquabus of the aquacomputer xt ultra pump can be reconfigured as a flow sensor output, where as it can be changed to flow sensor input. Am I right now?
> 
> And the aquaero can receive flow sensor signals (from say high flow usb) through either 'flow' or 'fan 1'.
> Can the 'high flow usb' be connected to 'high' aquabus of aquaero to read the flow signals? and can two of them be daisy chained along with two pumps?


Yes, the port at the aquastream XT can only act as an input for a flow sensor.

If you use the high flow USB sensor it must be connected to the aquabus port on the aquaero and if you use the normal 3-pin variant of this sensor it must be connected to the flow port of the aquaero.

When using the aquabus enabled variant you can connect up to four of them to the aquabus but at first you have to change the aquabus ID numbers of these sensor via USB. Otherwise the aquaero will not be able to differ between them because by default they all use the same ID number.

---

The aquasuite will support Windows 10 when it is officially resealed. We will waste no time into any alpha, beta, prerelease or whatever version.


----------



## bern43

Just updated to the newest software and I'm no longer able to control my rad fans by voltage. Lowering the maximum power has no impact on the voltage. When I try and do a curve control the fans default to zero. No idea why. Any thoughts?


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RoverVampire*
> 
> I tried a lot to make it work with windows 10 as well. Many of my crucial programs would not work. Asus AI suite, Corsair link, Aquaero are a few to name. Installing GTX 980 with old drivers was a headache. After all this, aquaero would not allow certain functions of the aquasuite in windows 10 and any attempt to configure would lead to a crash.


This is why win10 should be kept to VMs or general purpose computers. I use it at work, but only because windows released RSAT and most of my time is spent in AD or RDP/RDS.


----------



## skupples

Uni, to be more specific, the guy is managing share point and web development.


----------



## iCrap

I finally got my RGB led for the res wired up and installed. BUT i can't get it to change color based on temp. It just stays... green. What is color 1 and color 2? how do i make my res change from blue (cold) to red (hot)? And just skip green altogether.


----------



## fast_fate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iCrap*
> 
> I finally got my RGB led for the res wired up and installed. BUT i can't get it to change color based on temp. It just stays... green. What is color 1 and color 2? how do i make my res change from blue (cold) to red (hot)? And just skip green altogether.


Not sure why you would want to set up like that ??
It's going to be warm when running hard and cooler when idling.
setting lights to change on coolant temps would set off false alarm bells.
Not to mention change in coolant temps due to ambient air temp which is "cooling" the fluid.


----------



## iCrap

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fast_fate*
> 
> Not sure why you would want to set up like that ??
> It's going to be warm when running hard and cooler when idling.
> setting lights to change on coolant temps would set off false alarm bells.
> Not to mention change in coolant temps due to ambient air temp which is "cooling" the fluid.


Hmm... how do you mean? I want to have to blue light be on at 33c and fade to red up to 44ishc
See here. no alarms are used.
Before anyone says it YES i know blue and red are mixed on the right side, it's because of my wiring but it ends up being OK since it's reversed in software.


----------



## fast_fate

Sorry, I meant mental alarm, as in - red light on, damn why's my coolant hot.
As to how it is done....
sorry, can't help


----------



## iCrap

Well that's kind of the point though lol. Coolant would be hot when the system is under load. I just think it's kinda cool to have the water color react to it's temperture is all. There should be a way to set this up easily but I can't figure it out.


----------



## mike123

hey all .. ive just spent the last 12 hours reading through both the aqauero 6 threads here on OCN. and my brain is pretty fried. I learned a lot, like how I can enjoy coca cola in moderation, and how darlene rides a harley, and also some stuff about the aquaero 6. However I still have a few Qs and some knowledge gaps. So, perhaps someone can help.

thanks to many of you for your creation of this thread thus far, its a good source of info.

I was gonna get a regular d5 vario, adjust the speed with the red dial and leave it be, but the supplier has made a mistake and sent me the EK pwm version. So, what shall I do?

a) return it and get a vario
b) do the diva dapter mod
c) cant i just plug it into my cpu fan header and control it via the mobo pwm? im getting an evga micro x99 and from what I read, I can control the cpu header via pwm to react to cpu temp etc, or just set a constant value. see this link around page 26/27 -> http://www.evga.com/support/Manuals/files/BIOS/150-HE-E997_BIOS_GUIDE.pdf

but check out this disclaimer from that link to the manual
Quote:


> "ALL FAN HEADERS ON THIS MOTHERBOARD HAVE A
> MAXIMUM POWER LIMIT OF 1 AMP @ 12 VOLTS, OR 12
> WATTS, ANY MORE THAN THIS WILL LIKELY DAMAGE THE
> BOARD AND CAUSE PERMANENT FAILURE OF THE FAN
> HEADER. IF YOU NEED TO RUN A HIGH CAPACITY FAN, OR A
> PUMP THAT PULLS MORE THAN 1 AMP/12 WATTS, PLEASE
> USE A MOLEX CONNECTER FROM YOUR POWER SUPPLY, OR IF
> CONTROLLING THIS DEVICE IS NECESSARY, PLEASE LOOK TO A
> FAN CONTROLLER. "


Does this mean that I cant control a pwm d5 through the board because it cant handle it, making option C out of the question? or does it mean that I can connect the d5 pwm via the cpu header, just so long as it is running powered from the psu?

for measuring flow rate I have the high flow 53068, which is the non-usb 3 pin version (I have ordered the required cable separately also), and this I will plug into the "flow" terminal on the aqauero. I am going to use sythe gt 1850 rpm fans, 6 in total i think (2 pulling on a 240 rad, 3 pulling on a 360 rad, and one case fan). I will probably not be running these at full speed, and controlling them via voltage. I will also use 1 or 2 inline aquacomputer temperature sensors to create the curve from the water temp (and might try to add a virtual temp water/air type affair later once I have everything up and running smoothly).

My question is about how to wire the fans together and in to the aqauero. Should I solder a custom wire that runs them all in parallel, or should I be using some kind of hub, or some kind of splitter wires? I am just no sure how to do this part at all. I would like to sleeve the wires too, if that makes any difference. I am also not sure if I should have all the fans running off one channel, or split them, the 240 rad fans + case fans wired into one channel, and the 360 rad fans wired into another channel. This would allow the rads to be controlled independently of eachother, but is there any benefit to that? what are other people generally doing?

I think I am supposed to be only wiring one fan's rpm wire in also, as if they are all connected it will give incorrect readings?

Perhaps someone could explain how to wire up fans into an aquaero, and to be honest it would really be helpful if someone could take a picture of their setup, or give a simple wiring diagram. A picture of some sort would really help me (and im sure many others) to visualise the setup, because I am having trouble getting a picture in my mind of how it needs to be done. I think it would benefit me of course, but also the whole thread for future readers.

thanks


----------



## fast_fate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mike123*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> hey all .. ive just spent the last 12 hours reading through both the aqauero 6 threads here on OCN. and my brain is pretty fried. I learned a lot, like how I can enjoy coca cola in moderation, and how darlene rides a harley, and also some stuff about the aquaero 6. However I still have a few Qs and some knowledge gaps. So, perhaps someone can help.
> 
> thanks to many of you for your creation of this thread thus far, its a good source of info.
> 
> I was gonna get a regular d5 vario, adjust the speed with the red dial and leave it be, but the supplier has made a mistake and sent me the EK pwm version. So, what shall I do?
> 
> a) return it and get a vario
> b) do the diva dapter mod
> c) cant i just plug it into my cpu fan header and control it via the mobo pwm? im getting an evga micro x99 and from what I read, I can control the cpu header via pwm to react to cpu temp etc, or just set a constant value. see this link around page 26/27 -> http://www.evga.com/support/Manuals/files/BIOS/150-HE-E997_BIOS_GUIDE.pdf
> 
> but check out this disclaimer from that link to the manual
> Does this mean that I cant control a pwm d5 through the board because it cant handle it, making option C out of the question? or does it mean that I can connect the d5 pwm via the cpu header, just so long as it is running powered from the psu?
> 
> for measuring flow rate I have the high flow 53068, which is the non-usb 3 pin version (I have ordered the required cable separately also), and this I will plug into the "flow" terminal on the aqauero. I am going to use sythe gt 1850 rpm fans, 6 in total i think (2 pulling on a 240 rad, 3 pulling on a 360 rad, and one case fan). I will probably not be running these at full speed, and controlling them via voltage. I will also use 1 or 2 inline aquacomputer temperature sensors to create the curve from the water temp (and might try to add a virtual temp water/air type affair later once I have everything up and running smoothly).
> 
> My question is about how to wire the fans together and in to the aqauero. Should I solder a custom wire that runs them all in parallel, or should I be using some kind of hub, or some kind of splitter wires? I am just no sure how to do this part at all. I would like to sleeve the wires too, if that makes any difference. I am also not sure if I should have all the fans running off one channel, or split them, the 240 rad fans + case fans wired into one channel, and the 360 rad fans wired into another channel. This would allow the rads to be controlled independently of eachother, but is there any benefit to that? what are other people generally doing?
> 
> I think I am supposed to be only wiring one fan's rpm wire in also, as if they are all connected it will give incorrect readings?
> 
> Perhaps someone could explain how to wire up fans into an aquaero, and to be honest it would really be helpful if someone could take a picture of their setup, or give a simple wiring diagram. A picture of some sort would really help me (and im sure many others) to visualise the setup, because I am having trouble getting a picture in my mind of how it needs to be done. I think it would benefit me of course, but also the whole thread for future readers.
> 
> thanks


I'll kick off with the easy part









For the pump, should be no problem controlling from the mobo if the pump is powered from the PSU

As your using AP-15's the fan part is relatively easy as no pwm is involved.
The AP-15's are going to use about 1 Watt per fan at full speed which any of the Aquaeros available will handle on one channel.
So up to you if you choose to split different rad's fans over 2 channels or not.
If me I wouldn't bother unless cabling made it much easier.

For you cabling you could make a custom loom and split to each fan from the one line out from the header...



But it would be simpler I think to use a splitter placed somewhere convenient.
You are correct that only one fan rpm signal should arrive at the Aquaero header.
Some splitters have a rpm/tach pin on all the connectors for some unknown reason, so just watch out for that.

I have a soft spot for the NZXT Grid splitters even though they have the extra tach pins which need removing








Each of these Grid's goes to an Aquaero fan channel - output to Aquaero on the bottom.



For a more complex system you might need to draw something up....


----------



## mike123

thanks for your reply, and for the pictures, i will look at them properly tomorrow, im so tired from reading today !

so, if its ok to connect the pwm d5 to the mobo and control their speed this way, why are people modding them with the resistors? is it just to be able to adjust them via the aquaero based upon some temperature or something else?

it says that the pwm through the cpu can be set to static value, or controlled based upon a temperature reading ... what is the benefit of doing the diva resistor mod over just running it through the cpu header?


----------



## fast_fate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mike123*
> 
> thanks for your reply, and for the pictures, i will look at them properly tomorrow, im so tired from reading today !
> 
> so, if its ok to connect the pwm d5 to the mobo and control their speed this way, why are people modding them with the resistors? is it just to be able to adjust them via the aquaero based upon some temperature or something else?
> 
> it says that the pwm through the cpu can be set to static value, or controlled based upon a temperature reading ... what is the benefit of doing the diva resistor mod over just running it through the cpu header?


I'll leave the pwm D5 questions to the experts who I'm sure will get back to you.
BUT I suppose it is hardware/software controllers from the Aquaero.
I'm sure there are good reasons for pump speed control that the people who run there pumps that way will tell









I'm a set and forget pump speed guy, except on the test benches, where the Aqua Computer D5 control is my favorite


----------



## skupples

I have 36 AP 15s broken up over 3 channels on my AQ6, and it barely even notices.









36 fans broken up between channel 1, 3, & 4, with 2 pumps on channel 2.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fast_fate*
> 
> I'll leave the pwm D5 questions to the experts who I'm sure will get back to you.
> BUT I suppose it is hardware/software controllers from the Aquaero.
> I'm sure there are good reasons for pump speed control that the people who run there pumps that way will tell
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm a set and forget pump speed guy, except on the test benches, where the Aqua Computer D5 control is my favorite


you can run the pwm fan from the mobo cpu fan header as long as the pump is connected to the PSU to get the power feed from it. As to why people do the diva dapter thing I suspect there is a number of reasons and will give you two: a) easy to have all things integrated in to one software alone; b) I would prefer to control pwm using the Aquaero/Aquasuite beacuse I found out that the ASUS board software (fanxpert) does not control the pump the way I want making slight variations in speed which in turn my ear can hear it;

as for the fan part will give you incorrect readings only if you use a splitter with all headers with 3 pins while usually a good splitter will have one header with 3 pins and the rest with only two.


----------



## mike123

ok thanks for your replies.

im first going to see if just leaving the pump run on its own will be ok without any form of interference its going to sit at 60% speed ... you never know this might be exactly where i want it!

if this fails to satisfy, then i will try to set its speed through the mobo cpu fan header, and if this still doesnt hit the spot, i will do the pull up mod and connect it to the aquaero.

i like this logical approach


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mike123*
> 
> ok thanks for your replies.
> 
> im first going to see if just leaving the pump run on its own will be ok without any form of interference its going to sit at 60% speed ... you never know this might be exactly where i want it!
> 
> if this fails to satisfy, then i will try to set its speed through the mobo cpu fan header, and if this still doesnt hit the spot, i will do the pull up mod and connect it to the aquaero.
> 
> i like this logical approach


That's a good plan.

The PWM D5 doesn't work with the Aquaero 6 (A6) because the A6 follows the Intel PWM standard exactly, while the D5 has a non standard implementation as a design choice so that it can run at 60% speed with no PWM connection, as opposed to 100% speed like everything else that's PWM that follows the standard does.

Some mobos follow the standard exactly, and the PWM D5 doesn't work with those either.

Most mobos, it seems, have a slightly non-standard implementation that allows the D5 to work with them acceptably on the CPU header(s).

While most fans have a wide range of PWM duty cycle control . . . from about 25% to 100% PWM for min rpm to max rpm, the D5 has a narrower range from about 20% to 70% for min rpm to max rpm.

Sometimes what you use to control the PWM range from the mobo doesn't fit well with the 20% to 70% range, . . so that's something else to watch for and to be aware of once you get it hooked up.

If you find the D5 doesn't work with your mobo, other than the the control range isn't well suited, the little mod at the connector will fix it so it works with either the A6 or the mobo. . . . of course if it works with the A6, there's no reason to run it off the mobo.

Darlene


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> While most fans have a wide range of PWM duty cycle control . . . from about 25% to 100% PWM for min rpm to max rpm, the D5 has a narrower range from about 20% to 70% for min rpm to max rpm.
> 
> Sometimes what you use to control the PWM range from the mobo doesn't fit well with the 20% to 70% range, . . so that's something else to watch for and to be aware of once you get it hooked up.
> 
> If you find the D5 doesn't work with your mobo, other than the the control range isn't well suited, the little mod at the connector will fix it so it works with either the A6 or the mobo. . . . of course if it works with the A6, there's no reason to run it off the mobo.
> 
> Darlene


Is that range what you have seen? Just that is not what EK specifies for the one they sell, it more closely matches Martins testing of the Swiftech that shows a pretty linear RPM response from about 20% to 100% PWM. I thought the very narrow ranges were the preserve of the DDCs.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iCrap*
> 
> Hmm... how do you mean? I want to have to blue light be on at 33c and fade to red up to 44ishc
> See here. no alarms are used.
> Before anyone says it YES i know blue and red are mixed on the right side, it's because of my wiring but it ends up being OK since it's reversed in software.


You only have one colour set. You need to set colour one which is like the start colour and colour 2 which is the end colour. Drag the other little circle that is sitting in the middle of the colour wheel ... it is colour 2
Pretty sure you can't skip green though, seems like its a fixed transition. Maybe the Fabwerk offers more detailed control?


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> While most fans have a wide range of PWM duty cycle control . . . from about 25% to 100% PWM for min rpm to max rpm, the D5 has a narrower range from about 20% to 70% for min rpm to max rpm.
> 
> Sometimes what you use to control the PWM range from the mobo doesn't fit well with the 20% to 70% range, . . so that's something else to watch for and to be aware of once you get it hooked up.
> 
> If you find the D5 doesn't work with your mobo, other than the the control range isn't well suited, the little mod at the connector will fix it so it works with either the A6 or the mobo. . . . of course if it works with the A6, there's no reason to run it off the mobo.
> 
> Darlene
> 
> 
> 
> *Is that range what you have seen? Just that is not what EK specifies for the one they sell, it more closely matches Martins testing of the Swiftech that shows a pretty linear RPM response from about 20% to 100% PWM. I thought the very narrow ranges were the preserve of the DDCs.
> *
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *iCrap*
> 
> Hmm... how do you mean? I want to have to blue light be on at 33c and fade to red up to 44ishc
> See here. no alarms are used.
> Before anyone says it YES i know blue and red are mixed on the right side, it's because of my wiring but it ends up being OK since it's reversed in software.
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> You only have one colour set. You need to set colour one which is like the start colour and colour 2 which is the end colour. Drag the other little circle that is sitting in the middle of the colour wheel ... it is colour 2
> Pretty sure you can't skip green though, seems like its a fixed transition. Maybe the Fabwerk offers more detailed control?
Click to expand...

The range of control from min rpm to max rpm is also somewhat dependent on the voltage levels of the PWM pulse, which is why some guys report a wider range of required pulse widths than others to achieve the min to max rpm span.

My setup can actually deliver a virtual 0V to 5V PWM signal, so I see the narrowest range of pulse widths required to go from min to max rpm.

That tells me about the pump's circuitry itself.

If I use a little less than 5V, it takes a little more width to get max rpm . .

Similarly, if the pulse doesn't drop to very near 0V, it will run faster at lower widths, and require less width to reach max rpm.

Generally, the D5 requires a little wider range than the 35X . . . about 10% more width . . . . but that's with a capable controller.

It also has a slightly lower min rpm than the 35X . . . . . ~1220 for the 35X and ~810 for the D5 . . . though speeds that low are virtually useless

Once you get to running them from a mobo CPU header, for which the PWM implementation varies greatly from board to board, or even an A6 with the connector mod, then there's more variables at play, and at significant magnitudes, than just the basic pump circuitry.

I haven't tested an EK PWM pump to see if it more closely follows the behavior pattern of PWM fans, but I doubt it . . . at least for the D5.

At any rate, all things considered, the D5 and 35X, the most commonly used PWM pumps, have a demonstrably narrower pulse width range required to achieve a min to max rpm range. . . . at least with a decent controller.

Particularly noticeable is the upper portion of the range, where you typically see fans have a wide range of rpm change from ~70% to 100%, while the pumps are always very near max by 65% to 80%.

I've seen D5's need close to 80% or slightly more to reach max rpm, but that was a result of the actual PWM pulse not reaching 5V.

The D5 exhibits a loading effect on the controller as the pulse width increases, likely caused by the design that doesn't have the usual internal pullup circuitry, so depending on what it's being controlled by, it could seem to need ~85% width.

The take away point here, is that for the PWM D5, the range of pulse width required to control from min rpm to max rpm is going to be different for almost each person's setup because of the loading effect of the pump on the controller, but in the majority of instances, the pump will be at max by ~80%, where fans typically have a considerable range of control extending from 80% to 100%.

Darlene


----------



## mike123

well, you can add me to the owners list please !



however, is this dark patch normal?



it is still slightly visible when turned on



the screen looks as it has some slight bends in it towards the sides, its hard to make out, but you can see them just below where i have marked the red dots, these slight creases extend all the way along the screen top and bottom. you can see the curvature running down the unit beneath the red dots.



plus other minor gripes



is this to be expected?

edit, i know i can remove the brown marks with coke!


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mike123*
> 
> well, you can add me to the owners list please !
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> however, is this dark patch normal?
> 
> 
> 
> it is still slightly visible when turned on
> 
> 
> 
> the screen looks as it has some slight bends in it towards the sides, its hard to make out, but you can see them just below where i have marked the red dots, these slight creases extend all the way along the screen top and bottom. you can see the curvature running down the unit beneath the red dots.
> 
> 
> 
> plus other minor gripes
> 
> 
> 
> is this to be expected?
> 
> 
> edit, i know i can remove the brown marks with coke!










I did the same. The plastic cover film is so good that looks like there is not any in there but believe me is there. Just take it out and you will see the screen below is intact; If you still have brown marks after peeling off the film you can clean it with coke as you already said.


----------



## mike123

the pictures are taken with the cover removed, the dark patch and creases are on the screen itself


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mike123*
> 
> the pictures are taken with the cover removed, the dark patch and creases are on the screen itself


Woah... Send @Shoggy a message then because it looks like RMA to me. What you can try is to detach the front panel (the same procedure we use to change the faceplate) and check if the screen is not fully in contact with the board. It looks likely the cause here.


----------



## mike123

well, i hope its not an rma might just be condensation or something, but who knows. not me!

also today i found my graphics card waterblock doesnt fit the card itself, and there isnt a waterblock available for it yet, so i gotta rma the waterblock, and got to wait for EK to release a block for it. not a good day for me and my pc







see my buildlog if u wanna see a pic of it. i didnt realise that some cards were different sizes to the reference ones .... but now i know.


----------



## skupples

That looks allot like fluid stuck between the screen or something.

Have you removed the faceplate? It's pretty easy, the 4 corner screws, and then just pull softly, with the center of pressure on the pins, which you can see @ the top of the unit.


----------



## CaliLife17

So I have a AQ6 XT and want to use dual D5 pumps with it. From the reading I have done, the PWM versions require a mod to be used with the AQ6 because how they implement PWM. But it seems I can use the Aquacomputer D5 pumps with the Aquabus port. LINK

If I want to use 2 how would I go about connecting them to my AQ6? Would I need to buy a PWM splitter? What port on the AQ6?

thanks.


----------



## skupples

if I remember correctly, the AQ6 has actual aquabus ports (white header i think, high and low) and they also sell their own aquabus cables, but i'm not sure if that's required or not. I'm also pretty sure Shoggy told us that Aquabus daisy chains really well, so you should have no issues. I'm going to assume the pumps go on the High Bus, but not positive.

The plugs are the same size as standard 4 pin, but i'm not sure if they use a funky pitch which requires the branded Aquabus cable.










just make sure you double check. Some of their products use this funky 3 pin config where the pins are MUCH larger than your avg 3 pin, they then track back to the head unit w/ standard fan sized terminals.


----------



## EAnushan

Thinking about buying an Aquaero 6XT, but after some research, some questions popped up.


I have 2 x MCP-35X pumps. I'm guessing I can't connect both of these to the same fan header due to wattage limitations? Currently have both of them using a 4 pin y-splitter and hooked up to my motherboard.
Looks around, I'm guessing the Aquaero 6 waterblock hasn't been released yet?
Any recommendations on 3-pin fan splitters? For PWM, a lot of people seem to recommend the swiftech 8 way splitter. I have a bunch of Gentle Typhoon AP-15s. Going to need to group them up and hook them up to one of the fan headers on the back of the aquaero.
Other than that, looks like this'll be a lot of fun. Going to enjoy monitoring my entire machine in a single location.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CaliLife17*
> 
> So I have a AQ6 XT and want to use dual D5 pumps with it. From the reading I have done, the PWM versions require a mod to be used with the AQ6 because how they implement PWM. But it seems I can use the Aquacomputer D5 pumps with the Aquabus port. LINK
> 
> If I want to use 2 how would I go about connecting them to my AQ6? Would I need to buy a PWM splitter? What port on the AQ6?
> 
> thanks.


Aquabus High. Use a Y splitter. Never tried other brand that the Aquacomputer Y so can't tell if other would work. You can also connect the Aquacomputer d5 usb that you linked directly to your MB usb. It will still be visible to Aquasuite along with whatever you hook up to the Aquaero.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EAnushan*
> 
> Thinking about buying an Aquaero 6XT, but after some research, some questions popped up.
> 
> 
> I have 2 x MCP-35X pumps. I'm guessing I can't connect both of these to the same fan header due to wattage limitations? Currently have both of them using a 4 pin y-splitter and hooked up to my motherboard.
> Looks around, I'm guessing the Aquaero 6 waterblock hasn't been released yet?
> Any recommendations on 3-pin fan splitters? For PWM, a lot of people seem to recommend the swiftech 8 way splitter. I have a bunch of Gentle Typhoon AP-15s. Going to need to group them up and hook them up to one of the fan headers on the back of the aquaero.
> Other than that, looks like this'll be a lot of fun. Going to enjoy monitoring my entire machine in a single location.


1) yes you can connect since the molex would provide the power to the pumps correct? then you would use the fan header on the Aquaero just for control PWM the rpm of the pumps.
2) the Aquaero 5 waterblock fits the Aq6.
3) I like the darkside splitters. They come with just one fan header with 3 pins and the rest properly only have 2.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CaliLife17*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> So I have a AQ6 XT and want to use dual D5 pumps with it. From the reading I have done, the PWM versions require a mod to be used with the AQ6 because how they implement PWM. But it seems I can use the Aquacomputer D5 pumps with the Aquabus port. LINK
> 
> If I want to use 2 how would I go about connecting them to my AQ6? Would I need to buy a PWM splitter? What port on the AQ6?
> 
> thanks.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> if I remember correctly, the AQ6 has actual aquabus ports (white header i think, high and low) and they also sell their own aquabus cables, but i'm not sure if that's required or not. I'm also pretty sure Shoggy told us that Aquabus daisy chains really well, so you should have no issues. I'm going to assume the pumps go on the High Bus, but not positive.
> 
> The plugs are the same size as standard 4 pin, but i'm not sure if they use a funky pitch which requires the branded Aquabus cable.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> just make sure you double check. Some of their products use this funky 3 pin config where the pins are MUCH larger than your avg 3 pin, they then track back to the head unit w/ standard fan sized terminals.


he is correct you just need to daisy chain them

you can also make your own cables just make sure the wires goto the same place
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EAnushan*
> 
> Thinking about buying an Aquaero 6XT, but after some research, some questions popped up.
> 
> 
> I have 2 x MCP-35X pumps. I'm guessing I can't connect both of these to the same fan header due to wattage limitations? Currently have both of them using a 4 pin y-splitter and hooked up to my motherboard.
> Looks around, I'm guessing the Aquaero 6 waterblock hasn't been released yet?
> Any recommendations on 3-pin fan splitters? For PWM, a lot of people seem to recommend the swiftech 8 way splitter. I have a bunch of Gentle Typhoon AP-15s. Going to need to group them up and hook them up to one of the fan headers on the back of the aquaero.
> Other than that, looks like this'll be a lot of fun. Going to enjoy monitoring my entire machine in a single location.


1 MCP-35x ( i swear it sounds like we are talking about drugs ) pull power from the psu ( unless you modified the wiring ), i run all 4 of my pumps ( in each of my builds i use 4 pumps ) all which are MCP-35xs off of ch1

i use 3 of swiftechs pwm splitter ( in process of making my own cables/pcbs ) that way i can use mobo fan headers and monitor pump rpm and use the same pwm signal from the aq for control

the aq6 runs them without issue

2 they use the aq6 heatsink then the aq5 wb mounts to it, really it isnt needed and does not help much at all you can also use other blocks that are flat ( heard of at least 1 person doing this but again with a aq6 it just is not needed )

3 i would recommend making your own cables personally


----------



## EAnushan

Thanks for all the replies. I was pretty sure the AQ 5's waterblock worked for the 6, but the site I was buying off of said it wouldn't.

Regarding the 3 pin fan splitter, what if I used Swiftech's 8 way PWM splitter + a molex to 3 pin adapter. This way I should be able to connect 8 fans to the Aquaero 3 pin header directly. I'll just leave the 4 pin PWM connector on the Swiftech splitter without a connection.

Like this one:


----------



## Costas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EAnushan*
> 
> Thanks for all the replies. I was pretty sure the AQ 5's waterblock worked for the 6, but the site I was buying off of said it wouldn't.


Unless you want it for "looks" dont bother with a waterblock for the AQ6. Heat dissipation of the fan controller output stages was a limiting factor in the 5 series and that part of the circuitry was re-designed.

It utilises a completely different circuit design for the fan output driver stages. Basically it does not get hot - even when used at its maximum output rating.

The waterblock is now considered as a superfluous item for the 6 series controller.


----------



## skupples

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EAnushan*
> 
> Thinking about buying an Aquaero 6XT, but after some research, some questions popped up.
> 
> 
> I have 2 x MCP-35X pumps. I'm guessing I can't connect both of these to the same fan header due to wattage limitations? Currently have both of them using a 4 pin y-splitter and hooked up to my motherboard.
> Looks around, I'm guessing the Aquaero 6 waterblock hasn't been released yet?
> Any recommendations on 3-pin fan splitters? For PWM, a lot of people seem to recommend the swiftech 8 way splitter. I have a bunch of Gentle Typhoon AP-15s. Going to need to group them up and hook them up to one of the fan headers on the back of the aquaero.
> Other than that, looks like this'll be a lot of fun. Going to enjoy monitoring my entire machine in a single location.






I've easily ran 3x MCP35x2 @ 100% (60%) from one channel, with the other channels loaded down with 36 fans... the AQ CPU barely went up 3 degrees w/ all of this.

The unit is a work horse. Nothing even comes close, and it will be years before EK can compete on similar footing.

I hope that isn't true, as two entities competing in the high end head unit market would be good for us, but from what we saw, Supremacy is probably a year + from prime time.


----------



## Squeaks5635

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> The unit is a work horse. Nothing even comes close, and it will be years before EK can compete on similar footing.


^Truth


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EAnushan*
> 
> Thanks for all the replies. I was pretty sure the AQ 5's waterblock worked for the 6, but the site I was buying off of said it wouldn't.
> 
> Regarding the 3 pin fan splitter, what if I used Swiftech's 8 way PWM splitter + a molex to 3 pin adapter. This way I should be able to connect 8 fans to the Aquaero 3 pin header directly. I'll just leave the 4 pin PWM connector on the Swiftech splitter without a connection.
> 
> Like this one:


You'd be better off to use something designed to split 3-pin fans, like this or this, though if the latter it would need a simple mod like this. Another option is this (that's what I'm using), that likewise would need a simple mod like this.


----------



## skupples

It's been a PITA getting proper RPM readings out of using those simple PCBs, even with the trace cut.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> It's been a PITA getting proper RPM readings out of using those simple PCBs, even with the trace cut.


Seems odd that would be the case if you properly scratched completely through the trace after the first fan out header. As long as all the connector terminals are making good contact electrically it really should be no different than using any type of fan cable. I've had zero problems using the NZXT Grids w/ my AQ5 after I snipped the rpm pins to all the fan out headers except one.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Seems odd that would be the case if you properly scratched completely through the trace after the first fan out header. As long as all the connector terminals are making good contact electrically it really should be no different than using any type of fan cable. I've had zero problems using the NZXT Grids w/ my AQ5 after I snipped the rpm pins to all the fan out headers except one.


who knows... I didn't take time to further investigate during the last tear down.

Plausible that the fan splitters would cause it since each splitter has one 3 pin header?

I used my dremmel to sever the link.

The ones that do work, fluctuate heavily. Bouncing from 1.3k to 1.6k.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> who knows... I didn't take time to further investigate during the last tear down.
> 
> Plausible that the fan splitters would cause it since each splitter has one 3 pin header?
> 
> I used my dremmel to sever the link.
> 
> The ones that do work, fluctuate heavily. Bouncing from 1.3k to 1.6k.


Fluctuations like that usually happen when more than one fan is reporting rpm. I don't suppose there's any chance you have a fan splitter cable that has all three wires going to each connector (some do, like bitfenix ones, but any good fan splitter cable will only have all three wires going to one of the fan out connectors and just two going to the rest) plugged into the one header you left on the PCB before scratching through the trace?


----------



## EAnushan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Costas*
> 
> Unless you want it for "looks" dont bother with a waterblock for the AQ6. Heat dissipation of the fan controller output stages was a limiting factor in the 5 series and that part of the circuitry was re-designed.
> 
> It utilises a completely different circuit design for the fan output driver stages. Basically it does not get hot - even when used at its maximum output rating.
> 
> The waterblock is now considered as a superfluous item for the 6 series controller.


I see. In that case, I'll just go for the heatsink alone for the looks. Thanks!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> You'd be better off to use something designed to split 3-pin fans, like this or this, though if the latter it would need a simple mod like this. Another option is this (that's what I'm using), that likewise would need a simple mod like this.


I think I've got some 8 way Dark Side splitters laying around, though they are messy. Thanks for the suggestions, I'm looking at something similar (http://www.frozencpu.com/products/23517/ele-1301/4-Pin_PWM_Power_Distribution_PCB_8x_Way_Block_MMT-PCB-8P-44P.html?tl=c121s424b214). This way I can use either PWM (If I ever use PWM fans in the future) or Voltage control.


----------



## BirdofPrey

This Fabwerk thing sounds awesome. I was shying away from plans to have controlled lighting since the multiswitch sounded like it would be a huge pin in the ass to actually get working, but these look nice, and they don't take up tons of space. Now if only I could get something that has 2-3 fan channels that mounts to the poweradjust plate instead of having to flash an aquaero to LT.

Why's the low speed port going away though (just curious, I don't actually need it)?

On the subject of PWM splitters, what's the deal with so many of them not cutting the PWM line past the first fan? That's such a basic thing, you;d think they'd know to do that at the factory


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CaliLife17*
> 
> So I have a AQ6 XT and want to use dual D5 pumps with it. From the reading I have done, the PWM versions require a mod to be used with the AQ6 because how they implement PWM. But it seems I can use the Aquacomputer D5 pumps with the Aquabus port. LINK
> 
> If I want to use 2 how would I go about connecting them to my AQ6? Would I need to buy a PWM splitter? What port on the AQ6?
> 
> thanks.


Any PWM splitters and cables that have all wires connected, ( because many do not )

I like these.
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/23519/ele-1299/4-Pin_PWM_Power_Distribution_PCB_4x_Way_Block_MMT-PCB-4P-44P.html?tl=g47c121s424
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/23517/ele-1301/4-Pin_PWM_Power_Distribution_PCB_8x_Way_Block_MMT-PCB-8P-44P.html?tl=g47c121s424
Because they come in different sizes to suit how many devices you have and they connect all the wires on every header.

Just need to get the female to female cable to go with it.
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/23516/cab-1947/ModMyToys_4-Pin_PWM_Female_to_4-Pin_PWM_Female_Cable_Adapter_-_24_-_Sleeved_Black_MMT-FC-44-24BKS.html
It also works with the 3 pin Aquabus cables if you have a mix of devices. Just be careful when connecting that its positioned correctly.

With the current firmware only Aquabus high ports work and all modern devices connect there.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BirdofPrey*
> 
> This Fabwerk thing sounds awesome. I was shying away from plans to have controlled lighting since the multiswitch sounded like it would be a huge pin in the ass to actually get working, but these look nice, and they don't take up tons of space. Now if only I could get something that has 2-3 fan channels that mounts to the poweradjust plate instead of having to flash an aquaero to LT.
> 
> Why's the low speed port going away though (just curious, I don't actually need it)?
> 
> On the subject of PWM splitters, what's the deal with so many of them not cutting the PWM line past the first fan? That's such a basic thing, you;d think they'd know to do that at the factory


Probably because they can have other uses besides fan splitters. As in above where I use them for Aquabus, and also could be good for RGB lighting splitting.
I assume you mean RPM line.
They are trivial to mod to whichever type you want, either all connected or 3rd pin not connected. I personally keep them all the same and just use custom cables without RPM lines for the fans that don't need to report. That way nothing is permanent, but they are so cheap that changing them is no big deal.


----------



## mike123

Hi again, just wanted to update that my aquaero is OK, and the dark patch was just another plastic film underneath the first one, over the display



so i took that off. i also ran a black pen around where the paint hadnt covered inside the rim, and it cleaned it up really well. but, there was a little bit of glue on the left side, you can see it in the picture i posted before, i grabbed some acetone to clean that up, but it left a mark .. i forgot that acetone clouds up plastics for some reason. its only a small mark at the side, it doesnt bother me much but i might try and clean it up with oil at a later date. it turns out i also bought the wrong black bezel for it, so ill have to get the right one another time when they are back in stock.

on a side note, one of the rads for my build got discontinued, so im gonna rma the other that i already received (everything is going wrong on this build im doing atm aaaaggh). but i have now gotten interested in the aquaero airplex aluminium rads, i think they look amazing. anyone got any experience with them? they look really thick, i wonder if they will fit in an s5 ...?


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Squeaks5635*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> The unit is a work horse. Nothing even comes close, and it will be years before EK can compete on similar footing.
> 
> 
> 
> ^Truth
Click to expand...

by then the aq will still be far ahead
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *EAnushan*
> 
> Thanks for all the replies. I was pretty sure the AQ 5's waterblock worked for the 6, but the site I was buying off of said it wouldn't.
> 
> Regarding the 3 pin fan splitter, what if I used Swiftech's 8 way PWM splitter + a molex to 3 pin adapter. This way I should be able to connect 8 fans to the Aquaero 3 pin header directly. I'll just leave the 4 pin PWM connector on the Swiftech splitter without a connection.
> 
> Like this one:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You'd be better off to use something designed to split 3-pin fans, like this or this, though if the latter it would need a simple mod like this. Another option is this (that's what I'm using), that likewise would need a simple mod like this.
Click to expand...

agreed
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> It's been a PITA getting proper RPM readings out of using those simple PCBs, even with the trace cut.


i have not had any issue with the swiftech
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BirdofPrey*
> 
> This Fabwerk thing sounds awesome. I was shying away from plans to have controlled lighting since the multiswitch sounded like it would be a huge pin in the ass to actually get working, but these look nice, and they don't take up tons of space. Now if only I could get something that has 2-3 fan channels that mounts to the poweradjust plate instead of having to flash an aquaero to LT.
> 
> Why's the low speed port going away though (just curious, I don't actually need it)?
> 
> On the subject of PWM splitters, what's the deal with so many of them not cutting the PWM line past the first fan? That's such a basic thing, you;d think they'd know to do that at the factory


i think you mean rpm line ? cheap engineering

if you want a pwm splitter you want it with the pwm lines connected

also to note multiswitch is no longer supported :/
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mike123*
> 
> Hi again, just wanted to update that my aquaero is OK, and the dark patch was just another plastic film underneath the first one, over the display
> 
> 
> 
> so i took that off. i also ran a black pen around where the paint hadnt covered inside the rim, and it cleaned it up really well. but, there was a little bit of glue on the left side, you can see it in the picture i posted before, i grabbed some acetone to clean that up, but it left a mark .. i forgot that acetone clouds up plastics for some reason. its only a small mark at the side, it doesnt bother me much but i might try and clean it up with oil at a later date. it turns out i also bought the wrong black bezel for it, so ill have to get the right one another time when they are back in stock.
> 
> on a side note, one of the rads for my build got discontinued, so im gonna rma the other that i already received (everything is going wrong on this build im doing atm aaaaggh). but i have now gotten interested in the aquaero airplex aluminium rads, i think they look amazing. anyone got any experience with them? they look really thick, i wonder if they will fit in an s5 ...?


glad to hear


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mike123*
> 
> Hi again, just wanted to update that my aquaero is OK, and the dark patch was just another plastic film underneath the first one, over the display
> 
> 
> 
> so i took that off. i also ran a black pen around where the paint hadnt covered inside the rim, and it cleaned it up really well. but, there was a little bit of glue on the left side, you can see it in the picture i posted before, i grabbed some acetone to clean that up, but it left a mark .. i forgot that acetone clouds up plastics for some reason. its only a small mark at the side, it doesnt bother me much but i might try and clean it up with oil at a later date. it turns out i also bought the wrong black bezel for it, so ill have to get the right one another time when they are back in stock.
> 
> on a side note, one of the rads for my build got discontinued, so im gonna rma the other that i already received (everything is going wrong on this build im doing atm aaaaggh). but i have now gotten interested in the aquaero airplex aluminium rads, i think they look amazing. anyone got any experience with them? they look really thick, i wonder if they will fit in an s5 ...?


I told you it was the plastic but you did said you have removed. I am glad however was just that.


----------



## mike123

yeah sorry, i didnt realise there would be 2 pieces of plastic!


----------



## Shoggy

Qucik and dirty: aquasuite 2015 v2

*Changelog for the aquasuite software 2015 v2*

Bugfix: when fans were rpm controlled it was not possible to turn them off
Bugfix: pump speed was shown with the wrong unit
Bugfix: offset values for the temperatures of mps devices were interchanged
Bugfix: pump settings were not synchronized correctly between the different configuration pages
Bugfix: a restart of the aquasuite software was necessary to use a virtual sensor again within a virtual sensor
Bugfix: alarm levels for pump alarms were not shown correctly
Bugfix: changed behavior when switching a profile; when changing a profile the current profile is saved automatically
Bugfix: with an imported profile the settings between the aquasuite software and the aquaero where not synchronized
Bugfix: the relay is set to the state "off" by default so when updating the firmware it will not turn off the PC afterwards when using the ATX break adapter or power button with the relay


----------



## Mega Man

* bugfix we are bringing out a new multiswitch !


----------



## Shoggy

Nope









I forgot one fix: the letter "G" in the programmable buttons looks better now


----------



## BirdofPrey

Wouldn't the farbwerk be the new multiswitch more or less?

Also holy crap, not even 2015 yet and you're already on version 2 of the 2015 software


----------



## Squeaks5635

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> Qucik and dirty: aquasuite 2015 v2
> 
> *Changelog for the aquasuite software 2015 v2*
> 
> Bugfix: when fans were rpm controlled it was not possible to turn them off
> Bugfix: pump speed was shown with the wrong unit
> Bugfix: offset values for the temperatures of mps devices were interchanged
> Bugfix: pump settings were not synchronized correctly between the different configuration pages
> Bugfix: a restart of the aquasuite software was necessary to use a virtual sensor again within a virtual sensor
> Bugfix: alarm levels for pump alarms were not shown correctly
> Bugfix: changed behavior when switching a profile; when changing a profile the current profile is saved automatically
> Bugfix: with an imported profile the settings between the aquasuite software and the aquaero where not synchronized
> Bugfix: the relay is set to the state "off" by default so when updating the firmware it will not turn off the PC afterwards when using the ATX break adapter or power button with the relay


This requied another firmware update for me . . . . . was that supposed to happen


----------



## Shoggy

If you meant if it is normal that v2 came with another firmware, then the answer is yes.


----------



## Squeaks5635

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If you meant if it is normal that v2 came with another firmware, then the answer is yes.


Yup that's what I meant.

Side note: Hopefully it is just me, but after updating my firmware and setting up my A6 I have run into a problem where I cannot get my software temps to recognize anymore. I can't figure out what I am doing wrong as I am doing everything the same way I have before. I am using HWinfo here is a shot of how I have it set up.



Closed and reopened both programs
tried picking different sensors

Nothing seems to work.

I am sure it must be something simple I am overlooking but I am out of ideas.


----------



## Shoggy

Please reassign the sensors again. If that still does not work you can close the aquasuite and rename the folder C:\ProgramData\aquasuite-data (might be hidden) for a test. It will force the aquasuite to rewrite all configuration files again if the existing files are not available anymore.

At the moment I think it is only a simple configuration conflict since I can not reproduce this problem.


----------



## mosi

The old RGB LED controller had some feature that made the LED pulse the brightness a bit in a couple of patterns. Does that feature still exist somewhere?

On the plus side, renaming the power consumption is a godsend!


----------



## poulk

Hello all
I just begin use new aquasuite. And i see strange thing. Temperature of voltage regulators grow up. Now i can't use aquero as before







Even at small percent of lowering voltage(to 50-75%), temp on it go to 70C. Really strange thing. Before this, max i seen on this regulators was about 60-65C when lowering to 25-40%.
p.s. And bad what i can use old presets


----------



## Jakewat

Got my system running today and my AQ5 LT is all up and working nicely for the most part.
Few things that are not working for me atm:
RPM cable from my pump is plugged into one of the fan headers but it's not showing any rpm readout?
Software sensors are not detecting HWmonitor?
Also, what is the dangerous temperature for the fan amps? I have a custom heatsink installed, and when running all my fans at about %50 they are sitting around 50-55 degrees C, which seems fine.


----------



## siffonen

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakewat*
> 
> Got my system running today and my AQ5 LT is all up and working nicely for the most part.
> Few things that are not working for me atm:
> RPM cable from my pump is plugged into one of the fan headers but it's not showing any rpm readout?
> Software sensors are not detecting HWmonitor?
> Also, what is the dangerous temperature for the fan amps? I have a custom heatsink installed, and when running all my fans at about %50 they are sitting around 50-55 degrees C, which seems fine.


Are you sure that your pumps rpm readout works?
I have same pump, and i have not managed to get rpm readings from it, not with Aquaero 6, mb-connector or a different fan controller.

Open hardware monitor works with me, i`m not sure that is hwmonitor supported.


----------



## jagdtigger

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakewat*
> 
> Software sensors are not detecting HWmonitor?


Try out HWInfo64, it works for me with aquasuite...


----------



## XEKong

What would cause an MPS 400 to correctly read the flow, then over the coarse of an hour slowly drop to zero? The only way to get it going again is to unplug the computer from the wall for twenty minutes. Then it will read correctly and end up at zero again. The temp sensor always works correctly, and my fan curved based on that sensor works 24/7 without issue.


----------



## jagdtigger

Thats interesting, maybe the measurement mechanism is blocked by debris from the loop. Its little bit overkill to drain the whole system because of one sensor but i cant think of another cause. (Or in the worst case the pump is on the verge of death...)


----------



## XEKong

I'm running dual D5's. It's reading correctly 370LPH when it starts. I have my pump RPM's on my AIDA 64 desktop gadget, and I see no change in both pump's speed, and temps remain constant. The loop has been running 24/7 for about 10 months. I'm not seeing any clouding of the tubing, or anything in the res. I only have a kill coil and 2 drops of biocide in distilled water. The coil is in the bottom of my res, so I know it has not gone anywhere.

I changed the settings over to a pressure sensor, and it does the same way. It will read for a while, and just go to zero. I even changed USB ports on my mobo, with no effect.


----------



## dseg

I think I am having a problem with my flow sensor from AquaComputer.
It says I am only getting .5 GPM with my setup below:
2x 360 Black Ice SR1 Rads
1x 480 Black Ice SR1 Rad
1x Koolance Quick Disconnect Pin
2x 780 Hydro Copper
1x Raystorm CPU Block
1x AquaComputer Flow Meter

All powered by two D5 Swiftech pumps in a dual pump top at max speed setting.

Now I can see the pumps are putting out some force in my res but the flow meter only says .5 GPM (my flow max setting is set to 5GPM).
Is there a way to calibrate these things or something?


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dseg*
> 
> I think I am having a problem with my flow sensor from AquaComputer.
> It says I am only getting .5 GPM with my setup below:
> 2x 360 Black Ice SR1 Rads
> 1x 480 Black Ice SR1 Rad
> 1x Koolance Quick Disconnect Pin
> 2x 780 Hydro Copper
> 1x Raystorm CPU Block
> 1x AquaComputer Flow Meter
> 
> All powered by two D5 Swiftech pumps in a dual pump top at max speed setting.
> 
> Now I can see the pumps are putting out some force in my res but the flow meter only says .5 GPM (my flow max setting is set to 5GPM).
> Is there a way to calibrate these things or something?


which flow meter do you have? Is this one?

http://martinsliquidlab.org/2012/01/21/aquacomputer-water-high-flow-sensor-meter/

For what is worth I have previously a very similar setup except for the QD and was getting around 1 GPM at 100% pump power.


----------



## dseg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> which flow meter do you have? Is this one?
> 
> http://martinsliquidlab.org/2012/01/21/aquacomputer-water-high-flow-sensor-meter/
> 
> For what is worth I have previously a very similar setup except for the QD and was getting around 1 GPM at 100% pump power.


Yes, that is the flow meter I have. Do you have one or two pumps?


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dseg*
> 
> Yes, that is the flow meter I have. Do you have one or two pumps?


same overall loop mate. It was two d5 pumps, two ek blocks (titan), 1 cpu block and so on. What tubing are you using? 3/8 x 5/8? check Martin review there is some recommendation there to adjust the value according to tube diameter. In any case in my experience I doubt that would account for 0.4 GPM +- which would be my expectation of flow to your loop. I known QD are highly restrictive but damn would that account for 0.4 GPM???

EDIT- Also you can have a lot of useful information from here:

http://www.overclock.net/t/1501978/ocn-community-water-cooling-test-thread

where we test a bunch of stuff including flow meters and individual components.


----------



## nyck

In my buid i have an ek supreme hf for cpu, an watercool heatkiller gpu-x3 core for the gpu and five Couples of koolance qd3 with my pump (laing ddc 3.2 with aq top) at 4000 rpm (because don't geve mi more) the flow meter show me 0,6-0,7 us gal/min


----------



## XEKong

I guess my 1.63gpm at 3100 RPM's is not so bad lol. I only have a Raystorm cpu block into an AX360.


----------



## Daggi

It seems that my MPS 400 flow meter is broken. The internal temp sensor works but not the flow sensor. Do I need to replace it or is there a way to fix the old one?


----------



## Jakewat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *siffonen*
> 
> Are you sure that your pumps rpm readout works?
> I have same pump, and i have not managed to get rpm readings from it, not with Aquaero 6, mb-connector or a different fan controller.
> 
> Open hardware monitor works with me, i`m not sure that is hwmonitor supported.


I am pretty sure I had it working before with the CPU fan header, but I wasn't able to view the rpm while in windows, speed fan didn't work or anything else I tried But I was able to see an rpm while in bios. But now with the Aquaero it's not showing anything.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jagdtigger*
> 
> Try out HWInfo64, it works for me with aquasuite...


Thanks, this works perfectly.

Also, what are the danger temperatures for the fan amps?


----------



## nyck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *XEKong*
> 
> I guess my 1.63gpm at 3100 RPM's is not so bad lol. I only have a Raystorm cpu block into an AX360.


yes very good, but i think that if i get 0,6-0,7 gal/min with cpu wb, gpu wb, 5 qd3 and 3 radiator in a single loop with one ddc 3.2, dseg with 2 d5 must have very more of 0,6 gal/min


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Daggi*
> 
> It seems that my MPS 400 flow meter is broken. The internal temp sensor works but not the flow sensor. Do I need to replace it or is there a way to fix the old one?


are you sure is connected properly? If you invert the in and out of the MPS 400 you will get zero flow readings. Check the direction of the flow in your loop and if the mps in and out are aligned correctly with the direction of the flow.


----------



## Daggi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> are you sure is connected properly? If you invert the in and out of the MPS 400 you will get zero flow readings. Check the direction of the flow in your loop and if the mps in and out are aligned correctly with the direction of the flow.


Yes I am, and the sensor has been working fine for 6 months, just stopped working after a reboot of the computer


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Daggi*
> 
> Yes I am, and the sensor has been working fine for 6 months, just stopped working after a reboot of the computer


Then the only thing I can think of is to unplug the usb and try a different port on the MB. Alternatively you can try the aquabus connection if you have an Aquaero.


----------



## Nomadskid

I can't wait until my Aquaero 6 pro gets here. I'm so excited. I just wish I knew where it was. lol


----------



## Daggi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Then the only thing I can think of is to unplug the usb and try a different port on the MB. Alternatively you can try the aquabus connection if you have an Aquaero.


Hi thanks for replying. It was connected with the Aquabus, and i tried resetting the sensor from aquasuite, and I have tried different USB headers on the motherboard, Guess I'll have to buy a new one. At least it's Christmas holiday so I got a lot of spare time to fix and clean my computers


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Daggi*
> 
> Hi thanks for replying. It was connected with the Aquabus, and i tried resetting the sensor from aquasuite, and I have tried different USB headers on the motherboard, Guess I'll have to buy a new one. At least it's Christmas holiday so I got a lot of spare time to fix and clean my computers


Sorry to hear that. For how long do you have it? get in contact with Aquacomputer support. They might test it and replace it.


----------



## Daggi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Sorry to hear that. For how long do you have it? get in contact with Aquacomputer support. They might test it and replace it.


I have used it for about 6 months or so.


----------



## jagdtigger

I just started writing a list whats should i order for my cooling and spotted an adapter for my pump, officially its drawing 18W and i dont know if the a6 can handle it... Any thoughts about this?


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jagdtigger*
> 
> I just started writing a list whats should i order for my cooling and spotted an adapter for my pump, officially its drawing 18W and i dont know if the a6 can handle it... Any thoughts about this?


AQ6 can do 30W per channel. No problem


----------



## skupples

Second layer of plastic under the faceplate?! Guess my first gen didn't have that.


----------



## Squeaks5635

Mine didn't have it either but I don't think I have a first gen . . .


----------



## Domiro

I'm looking to run 20 odd EK Vardar (PWM), draw is 1.44W per fan. Would an Aquaero 5 LT suffice for this purpose, or am I looking at an Aquaero 6/Poweradjust?


----------



## VSG

You can power the fans from the PSU directly using a powered PWM splitter/hub and then daisychain them to work off the single PWM header on the Aquaero 5 LT- in theory anyway. I don't know how these fans are built or if the 5 LT can control 20 PWM fans off a single header.

With the Aquaero 6, you get up to 4 PWM headers so that will make life a lot easier- at a higher price.


----------



## Domiro

The intent is to have either 1 or 2 inline water sensors and run 16 fans spit over 2 rads on that. The remaining 4 are extra intake/exhaust. And I must admit I like the looks of the bare 5 LT opposed to the LCD versions. (Blame Lowfat and that Lian-Li build of his)

And although my mind may betray me but didn't you get a sample of the EK Vardar?


----------



## Mega Man

you can remove the LCD fyi


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Domiro*
> 
> The intent is to have either 1 or 2 inline water sensors and run 16 fans spit over 2 rads on that. The remaining 4 are extra intake/exhaust. And I must admit I like the looks of the bare 5 LT opposed to the LCD versions. (Blame Lowfat and that Lian-Li build of his)
> 
> And although my mind may betray me but didn't you get a sample of the EK Vardar?


I have a pre-production sample yes, but that won't help answer if the PWM signal fom the 5 LT is enough for 20 of them.


----------



## Domiro

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> you can remove the LCD fyi


Yeah, but I'd be paying a fair bit extra for something I don't necessarily want.

The Aquaero 6 would then be the answer, seeing as it's got plenty of channels. That, or would voltage controlling part of the fans be an option through the other AQ5 channels?


----------



## Mega Man

it can be yes


----------



## Daggi

Hi all.
I don't know why and how but my MPS 400 flow meter just started working again. I haven't done anything with my computer. I only turned it off for a few hours yesterday. It's gotta be magic


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Daggi*
> 
> Hi all.
> I don't know why and how but my MPS 400 flow meter just started working again. I haven't done anything with my computer. I only turned it off for a few hours yesterday. It's gotta be magic


It's because it's Christmas, and I prayed for you . . . .









Or it's like the guys who ran PWM D5's from the A5 and it would work sometimes, but not other times, or work for a while and then stop working, only to mysteriously start working again . . . for a while.

D.


----------



## Daggi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> It's because it's Christmas, and I prayed for you . . . .
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> D.


your prayers did it


----------



## Domiro

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> it can be yes


And with voltage control I could still exceed the AQ5's power limit by making sure the fans are connected to a powered hub, rather than just daisy chained?


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

A powered fan hub? What's that?


----------



## Domiro

Hub, splitter, whatever you want to call it. Just a splitter with additional power through SATA/Molex rather than just a splitter.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

I don't know of such a thing except for those that will run your fans at 100% if it's connected to the PSU except maybe something like the Bitspower X-Station that splits the power from a molex into 12v, 7v, and 5v 3-pin fan headers, but in any case I'm not aware of a hub that provides 'additional' power from the PSU and allows your fan speeds to be controlled by a fan controller, especially not PWM.

I think you may be thinking of a hub like the modmytoys or the Swiftech PWM hub that provides the 12v and ground from the PSU and the tach and PWM signal from a PWM header (mobo or Aquaero) to PWM fans, which is definitely the type of splitter hub that should be used to connect a bunch of PWM fans to the Aquaero, as was previously mentioned by geggeg / VSG, but just like he said it won't help provide PWM control to more fans than the header is capable of controlling.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> You can power the fans from the PSU directly using a powered PWM splitter/hub and then daisychain them to work off the single PWM header on the Aquaero 5 LT- in theory anyway. I don't know how these fans are built or if the 5 LT can control 20 PWM fans off a single header.
> 
> With the Aquaero 6, you get up to 4 PWM headers so that will make life a lot easier- at a higher price.


I'm not sure anyone knows how many PWM fans you would be able to control from the single PWM header on the AQ5. I'm sure it would vary a bit by the type of fan used, but it's probably a safe bet that 20 fans on one header would be a stretch and that you'd be better off to go with an AQ6 where you can spread them across several headers.


----------



## Domiro

I did mean hubs like the Swiftech indeed. And as you've answered; as a way of powering the fans, the signal still coming from the AQ (Be it one or more channels).

To be fair, my fan choice somewhat depends on interaction with the AQ. If I can find 3 pin fans that will do what I'm after within limits of the AQ5 LT, then that's where I'm headed. I'm perfectly fine with an AQ5 and using voltage control through multiple channels.

The AQ6 just isn't in my budget at this point.

Edit;
Unless I find an AQ6 second hand.


----------



## clayer

hi im about to install and rebuild watercooling loop and will be using the aquaero 6 usb.

i would like some help on controlling my pumps i have purchased a dual pump/res EK-BAY RES Dual DDC 3.25 Serial (incl. pumps)

am i correct in thinking i connect both pumps to psu using molex, and then the pwm leads to 2 of the 4 pin channels on the aquaero. this leaving me 2 channels spare for fan control.

thanks.


----------



## Squeaks5635

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *clayer*
> 
> hi im about to install and rebuild watercooling loop and will be using the aquaero 6 usb.
> 
> i would like some help on controlling my pumps i have purchased a dual pump/res EK-BAY RES Dual DDC 3.25 Serial (incl. pumps)
> 
> am i correct in thinking i connect both pumps to psu using molex, and then the pwm leads to 2 of the 4 pin channels on the aquaero. this leaving me 2 channels spare for fan control.
> 
> thanks.


I have this exact pump res combo.

I hooked up the power to the psu, and then BOTH pumps pwm controll to one channel. I just cut and soldered the wires together to one connector. That way you still have 3 open fan channels.

Edit:
Don't forget to only connect one rpm sensor.


----------



## skupples

i've always wondered about that EK Res, seems like it would cause obscene levels of cycloning even @ 20% duty cycle.


----------



## clayer

ok thanks may have to settle for using 2 channels not into soldering unless i could use a 4pin splitter and just cut 1 rpm cable ?

thanks


----------



## Squeaks5635

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> i've always wondered about that EK Res, seems like it would cause obscene levels of cycloning even @ 20% duty cycle.


I thought the same thing and could't find any info anywhere. But after close inspection it has a black mesh thing and an Acrylic? E just inside the return to the res. No vortex even at 100%.

Edit: also I measured the res and it is 170 ml to the max line, some more info I could not find.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *clayer*
> 
> ok thanks may have to settle for using 2 channels not into soldering unless i could use a 4pin splitter and just cut 1 rpm cable ?
> 
> thanks


That would do the same thing. Just more wire


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *clayer*
> 
> hi im about to install and rebuild watercooling loop and will be using the aquaero 6 usb.
> 
> i would like some help on controlling my pumps i have purchased a dual pump/res EK-BAY RES Dual DDC 3.25 Serial (incl. pumps)
> 
> am i correct in thinking i connect both pumps to psu using molex, and then the pwm leads to 2 of the 4 pin channels on the aquaero. this leaving me 2 channels spare for fan control.
> 
> thanks.


If you got the ddc 3.25 version it isn't pwm controllable. that is the voltage controlled version so you would need to use an adaptor cable to convert the DDC's from getting their power from the PSU, to getting it from the Aquaero.

Vortexing is very much a characteristic of tube reservoirs with a pump mounted directly to them. The bay reservoirs like the EK one and the Koolance before them are more like a pump and seperated res, so the spinning action of the pump is not transfered to the res section.


----------



## Ironsmack

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Domiro*
> 
> I did mean hubs like the Swiftech indeed. And as you've answered; as a way of powering the fans, the signal still coming from the AQ (Be it one or more channels).
> 
> To be fair, my fan choice somewhat depends on interaction with the AQ. If I can find 3 pin fans that will do what I'm after within limits of the AQ5 LT, then that's where I'm headed. I'm perfectly fine with an AQ5 and using voltage control through multiple channels.
> 
> The AQ6 just isn't in my budget at this point.
> 
> Edit;
> Unless I find an AQ6 second hand.


I haven't found my limit yet. I'm running 7 & 8 AP15's on the first two channels, 3 AP45's on one.

Granted i have the water block installed and part of my loop.


----------



## Domiro

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ironsmack*
> 
> I haven't found my limit yet. I'm running 7 & 8 AP15's on the first two channels, 3 AP45's on one.
> 
> Granted i have the water block installed and part of my loop.


My only chance at GTs is through importing them at insane prices. And I doubt the 4th channel alone on the AQ5 supports all of those PWM fans.

Looking for some alternatives, otherwise I'll just need to delay untill I van get an AQ6.

Edit;

By PWM I mean the ones I had in mind.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *clayer*
> 
> hi im about to install and rebuild watercooling loop and will be using the aquaero 6 usb.
> 
> i would like some help on controlling my pumps i have purchased a dual pump/res EK-BAY RES Dual DDC 3.25 Serial (incl. pumps)
> 
> am i correct in thinking i connect both pumps to psu using molex, and then the pwm leads to 2 of the 4 pin channels on the aquaero. this leaving me 2 channels spare for fan control.
> 
> thanks.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *clayer*
> 
> ok thanks may have to settle for using 2 channels not into soldering unless i could use a 4pin splitter and just cut 1 rpm cable ?
> 
> thanks


if you have a 3 pin connector ( one wire in it ) that is RPM
4 pin connector ( 2 wires in it ) that is pwm /rpm

you can use a pwm splitter and not have to cut anything

swiftech has one i love ( for cheap ) for 2 that allows you to monitor rpm on both ~!
http://www.swiftech.com/PWMsplittercable.aspx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Domiro*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ironsmack*
> 
> I haven't found my limit yet. I'm running 7 & 8 AP15's on the first two channels, 3 AP45's on one.
> 
> Granted i have the water block installed and part of my loop.
> 
> 
> 
> My only chance at GTs is through importing them at insane prices. And I doubt the 4th channel alone on the AQ5 supports all of those PWM fans.
> 
> Looking for some alternatives, otherwise I'll just need to delay untill I van get an AQ6.
> 
> Edit;
> 
> By PWM I mean the ones I had in mind.
Click to expand...

your location ?


----------



## Swuell

What is this thing about the A6 and issues with Corsairs SP120 (which I know is due to Corsairs design implementations and flaws and not due to Aquaero) that I've been reading through on the past older threads?? I'm kind of confused and a bit worried since I will be running 1 SP120 PWM Corsair fan off a radiator, would there be any issues with that or is it only when you start racking up to higher numbers that the issues start? :O


----------



## Domiro

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> your location ?


Netherlands. Best I can find are the AP30 or AP12 for 25 euros each. Most premium fans here are in the 15 to 20 euro range.

Not even sure in the quantities I need.


----------



## Squeaks5635

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Swuell*
> 
> What is this thing about the A6 and issues with Corsairs SP120 (which I know is due to Corsairs design implementations and flaws and not due to Aquaero) that I've been reading through on the past older threads?? I'm kind of confused and a bit worried since I will be running 1 SP120 PWM Corsair fan off a radiator, would there be any issues with that or is it only when you start racking up to higher numbers that the issues start? :O


I have 9 PWM SP 120 fans connected to one channel and they still control very well. They cannot go quite as low as if you had fewer fans on the channel but I can still get them down to 425 RPM


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Squeaks5635*
> 
> I thought the same thing and could't find any info anywhere. But after close inspection it has a black mesh thing and an Acrylic? E just inside the return to the res. No vortex even at 100%.
> 
> Edit: also I measured the res and it is 170 ml to the max line, some more info I could not find.
> That would do the same thing. Just more wire


Nice... I ran dual DDC in the Swiftech Maelstrom. It suffered heavily from vortexing, even with it's little air sponge & the res completely full. It looks like Swiftech was forced to redesign it, as they've issued a Rev 2.0 that has more volume and new engineering on water intake area.


----------



## Swuell

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Squeaks5635*
> 
> I have 9 PWM SP 120 fans connected to one channel and they still control very well. They cannot go quite as low as if you had fewer fans on the channel but I can still get them down to 425 RPM


Oh. I was just reading it from the other thread where another poster had done some severe tests which were quite cool...


----------



## psycho84

Some very very good Fans are the Noctua industrial PPC 2000 *PWM* (120mm and 140mm). I have 9 Fans at one Channel on my Aquaero 6 Pro and i can control them between ~180rpm and ~2000rpm ! I've never seen a Fan with such a Controlrange before...

But only the PWM Version is able to get so slow. The non-PWM only goes down to ~500rpm.

Another Point is, the RPM differnce between the slowest and the fastest one are only about 50rpm...

And they are realy quiet !


----------



## Swuell

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *psycho84*
> 
> Some very very good Fans are the Noctua industrial PPC 2000 PWM. I habe 9 at one Channel on my Aquaero 6 Pro and i can control them between ~180rpm and ~2000rpm ! I've never seen a Fan with such a Controlrange before...










I have the Industrial but needed a different one also so I opted for an SP120 HE since I read good things about their performance.


----------



## Malpractis

Hey everyone,

Quick question about the Aquacomputer D5 pumps with Aquabus and AQ6 XT. I'm currently running Blitz Pt 2 through a new system, and all I've got atm is the PSU, and rads/res/pumps and the AQ6. Is it possible to increase the pump speed without aquasuite? I've plugged one of the pumps into the Hi Flo port on the AQ6, it's showing up under pumps, but I'm not sure if the speed is increasing.

I set a preset value of 100%, and set the pump to use that preset value, I just don't think it is increasing.

I also tried just modifying the minimum value, but that didn't seem to do anything either.

Reason I'm trying to increase the speed is because the Pt 2 doesn't seem to be foaming much at all so thought I might need more flow.

Cheers


----------



## skupples

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Malpractis*
> 
> Hey everyone,
> 
> Quick question about the Aquacomputer D5 pumps with Aquabus and AQ6 XT. I'm currently running Blitz Pt 2 through a new system, and all I've got atm is the PSU, and rads/res/pumps and the AQ6. Is it possible to increase the pump speed without aquasuite? I've plugged one of the pumps into the Hi Flo port on the AQ6, it's showing up under pumps, but I'm not sure if the speed is increasing.
> 
> I set a preset value of 100%, and set the pump to use that preset value, I just don't think it is increasing.
> 
> I also tried just modifying the minimum value, but that didn't seem to do anything either.
> 
> Reason I'm trying to increase the speed is because the Pt 2 doesn't seem to be foaming much at all so thought I might need more flow.
> 
> Cheers





you should be able to control the pump from the head unit. I use the remote to bleed my system, as it's easier than bending over to input the values.

just gotta find where in the unit the pump is hooked. my pumps are hooked via Fan Channel #2, so that's where I change it during bleeding.


----------



## Malpractis

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> you should be able to control the pump from the head unit. I use the remote to bleed my system, as it's easier than bending over to input the values.
> 
> just gotta find where in the unit the pump is hooked. my pumps are hooked via Fan Channel #2, so that's where I change it during bleeding.


Ahhh I get you, similar to where in aquasuite you would link it to a controller?

Thanks heaps mate


----------



## Jakusonfire

If it's a brand new system, I think by default the mps pumps are set to usb priority and need to be switched to aquabus priority to take controls from the Aquaero.
If it was already set to aquabus priority it should respond to increasing the minimum speed. The new firmware has changed up a lot of stuff so I'm not totally sure.


----------



## Malpractis

Quote:


> If it's a brand new system, I think by default the mps pumps are set to usb priority and need to be switched to aquabus priority to take controls from the Aquaero.


Yeah you're right. I gave up and jury rigged my current system to be a temporary aquasuite master. Got everything working, except one of the pumps refuses to be detected by aquasuite and won't accept any control. I've triple checked that they both have different bus addresses too, might have to RMA it









*edit*
What I mean by not detected is, it's not detecting the RPM or anything. I've set it to Aquabus priority, it shows up under pumps, but don't get any stats from it.


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Domiro*
> 
> Netherlands. Best I can find are the AP30 or AP12 for 25 euros each. Most premium fans here are in the 15 to 20 euro range.
> 
> Not even sure in the quantities I need.


Coolerguys sell AP-14 and AP-15. Coolerguys have a store at Amazon UK. Amazon UK deliver to the Netherlands.

http://www.amazon.co.uk/s/ref=nb_sb_noss?url=search-alias%3Daps&field-keywords=coolerguys%20gentle%20typhoon
AP-14 http://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B001CSH8ZY
AP-15 http://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B001Q6RUVO

Thanks to @Turbz for leading me on the trail to discover this.


----------



## Domiro

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> Coolerguys sell AP-14 and AP-15. Coolerguys have a store at Amazon UK. Amazon UK deliver to the Netherlands.
> 
> http://www.amazon.co.uk/s/ref=nb_sb_noss?url=search-alias%3Daps&field-keywords=coolerguys%20gentle%20typhoon
> AP-14 http://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B001CSH8ZY
> AP-15 http://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B001Q6RUVO
> 
> Thanks to @Turbz for leading me on the trail to discover this.


Thanks! I'd found their amazon.com store, hadn't thought about checking for a UK variant.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Malpractis*
> 
> Yeah you're right. I gave up and jury rigged my current system to be a temporary aquasuite master. Got everything working, except one of the pumps refuses to be detected by aquasuite and won't accept any control. I've triple checked that they both have different bus addresses too, might have to RMA it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *edit*
> What I mean by not detected is, it's not detecting the RPM or anything. I've set it to Aquabus priority, it shows up under pumps, but don't get any stats from it.


It used to be (if I recall correctly) that the pump (d5) didn't not report rpm when connected via aquabus. Usually you get the rpm under the alarm section in aquasuite if connected via usb. But with the new firmware I am not 100% sure.


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Malpractis*
> 
> Yeah you're right. I gave up and jury rigged my current system to be a temporary aquasuite master. Got everything working, except one of the pumps refuses to be detected by aquasuite and won't accept any control. I've triple checked that they both have different bus addresses too, might have to RMA it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *edit*
> What I mean by not detected is, it's not detecting the RPM or anything. I've set it to Aquabus priority, it shows up under pumps, but don't get any stats from it.


Aquabus is just like a woman, temperamental and impossible to predict. It can clash with itself and do wierd things all the time until it just seemingly randomly decides everything is ok and works as it should.
It has happened to me lots of times and with all different aquabus devices. Even just changing an Aquabus address can set it off.
You just have to be persistant with it. remove all power from the aquaero and and aquabus devices and disconnect and reconnect them, then maybe also restart the system a couple of times. Its always different but I've always gotten there in the end.
I've had pumps that refused to be detected, flow meters that would only show as real time clocks even though none was connected, have three pumps show up instead of two, and plenty of other adventures.


----------



## Malpractis

@Jakusonfire

lol cheers, I'll keep at it. Though I think I'm going to have to drain it and have a fiddle, both pumps are running, but one can't be controlled. But more seriously I cant detect any measurable flow through the loop at all now. At least before I had it plugged into the AQ6 I could see the flow. But now with one pump at 100% and one at 25% can't see any. Think I'll try using a different inlet port on the aqualis see what happens.

Didn't realise RPM shows up in Alarms with USB though, I might plug USB back in and see if I can adjust it from there!


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Malpractis*
> 
> @Jakusonfire
> 
> lol cheers, I'll keep at it. Though I think I'm going to have to drain it and have a fiddle, both pumps are running, but one can't be controlled. But more seriously I cant detect any measurable flow through the loop at all now. At least before I had it plugged into the AQ6 I could see the flow. But now with one pump at 100% and one at 25% can't see any. Think I'll try using a different inlet port on the aqualis see what happens.
> 
> Didn't realise RPM shows up in Alarms with USB though, I might plug USB back in and see if I can adjust it from there!


it used to be unless memory is out of place... But I am checking right now (running new firmware on AQ6 and pumps are connected via USB) and I can't see anymore the rpm there. It might the other way around rpm show in the alarm section when connected via aquabus. In any case just for the record, if you have connected via USB you can add to Aquasuite the rpm reading from the pump directly to your custom page. Like this:


----------



## Squeaks5635

I have been looking around for a while and I can't find where to buy the correct connectors for these ports.



Anyone know where to get them in the US?

I plan on connecting two of these led strips

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/14103/lit-289/Phobya_LED_Flex_Light_36_Count_SMD_LED_Light_Strip_-_30cm_-_White_83122.html


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Squeaks5635*
> 
> I have been looking around for a while and I can't find where to buy the correct connectors for these ports.
> 
> 
> 
> Anyone know where to get them in the US?
> 
> I plan on connecting two of these led strips
> 
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/14103/lit-289/Phobya_LED_Flex_Light_36_Count_SMD_LED_Light_Strip_-_30cm_-_White_83122.html


this one?

http://shop.aquacomputer.de/product_info.php?products_id=1629

http://www.performance-pcs.com/aquacomputer-aquaero-5-6-connector-2pol-for-relay-output.html#Additional-Information


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> this one?
> 
> http://shop.aquacomputer.de/product_info.php?products_id=1629
> 
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/aquacomputer-aquaero-5-6-connector-2pol-for-relay-output.html#Additional-Information


That's the one, I had to get mine from there too.


----------



## Squeaks5635

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> this one?
> 
> http://shop.aquacomputer.de/product_info.php?products_id=1629
> 
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/aquacomputer-aquaero-5-6-connector-2pol-for-relay-output.html#Additional-Information


Perfect. Thanks for the link. I checked frozen and some forums but could not find it.


----------



## Wolfsbora

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> this one?
> 
> http://shop.aquacomputer.de/product_info.php?products_id=1629
> 
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/aquacomputer-aquaero-5-6-connector-2pol-for-relay-output.html#Additional-Information


+1! I needed that guy also. Thanks!


----------



## skupples

what voltage does it apply? would running LEDs via it require resistors?

I think i'll just go the Jive's amp route, or w/e it's called, on my next rebuild.


----------



## Jakusonfire

Its a 12V PWM modulated output. It is good for LED strips and can run a few at once. I use the Darkside dimmable white LED strips on mine and it works great, with a good range of brightness. The Jeak amp has pretty much been made redundant by the new Aquacomp Fabwerk.


----------



## skupples

thanks....

hadn't heard of the Aquacomp Farbwerk until now. Gotta put it on my sticky of things to google during lunch break.


----------



## Swuell

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> Its a 12V PWM modulated output. It is good for LED strips and can run a few at once. I use the Darkside dimmable white LED strips on mine and it works great, with a good range of brightness. The Jeak amp has pretty much been made redundant by the new Aquacomp Fabwerk.


So that's for controlling LED strips then?


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> thanks....
> 
> hadn't heard of the Aquacomp Fabwerk until now. Gotta put it on my sticky of things to google during lunch break.


Yeah I'm gonna get one in if they ever actually start shipping the things. They have had the 21 day lead time thing up on the store ever since they were announced.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> thanks....
> 
> hadn't heard of the Aquacomp Farbwerk until now. Gotta put it on my sticky of things to google during lunch break.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Swuell*
> 
> So that's for controlling LED strips then?


Jakusonfire posted this on this thread ~ month and a half ago ...
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> Aquacomputers new Aquaero compatible RGB LED controller released. Up to 8A ! of power for LED's or other devices.
> 
> http://forum.aquacomputer.de/weitere-foren/english-forum/105464-farbwerk-put-color-in-your-life-new-4x-rgb-led-controller/


----------



## skupples

yeah... that might need to come home with my sooner than later. Specially since the radiator leak damaged all of my ghetto Mod My Toys LED PCBs.


----------



## Swuell

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Jakusonfire posted this on this thread ~ month and a half ago ...


OH MY GOD... I love Germans! :3

By the way I didn't find this thread till about a couple days ago... So yeah.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Squeaks5635*
> 
> I thought the same thing and could't find any info anywhere. But after close inspection it has a black mesh thing and an Acrylic? E just inside the return to the res. No vortex even at 100%.
> 
> Edit: also I measured the res and it is 170 ml to the max line, some more info I could not find.
> That would do the same thing. Just more wire
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Nice... I ran dual DDC in the Swiftech Maelstrom. It suffered heavily from vortexing, even with it's little air sponge & the res completely full. It looks like Swiftech was forced to redesign it, as they've issued a Rev 2.0 that has more volume and new engineering on water intake area.
Click to expand...

you should try it with 4 >.> only time i dont get it is using my fq res
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Swuell*
> 
> What is this thing about the A6 and issues with Corsairs SP120 (which I know is due to Corsairs design implementations and flaws and not due to Aquaero) that I've been reading through on the past older threads?? I'm kind of confused and a bit worried since I will be running 1 SP120 PWM Corsair fan off a radiator, would there be any issues with that or is it only when you start racking up to higher numbers that the issues start? :O


the older aq6s can not control as many as the newer ones, the newer ones have a different resistor , pretty much a non issue by now though if you just bought it you are fine
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> yeah... that might need to come home with my sooner than later. Specially since the radiator leak damaged all of my ghetto Mod My Toys LED PCBs.


>.< oh no !


----------



## Swuell

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> you should try it with 4 >.> only time i dont get it is using my fq res
> the older aq6s can not control as many as the newer ones, the newer ones have a different resistor , pretty much a non issue by now though if you just bought it you are fine
> >.< oh no !


Ohhh ok. Well I just received my unit and upon opening it I noticed the manual was piratically stuck onto the unit itself... So i lifted it as gently as I could but I noticed that there still some sort of glue on at the top of the AQ6 and some sort of little gap between the front panel and the pcb board right behind it along with some minor scratches and what looks like marks and burns--pretty visible marks on the front shield--on the front of the unit itself... Should I be worried? Are the marks and scratches due to unit not coming packaged in plastic or it just how it is? :|


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Swuell*
> 
> Ohhh ok. Well I just received my unit and upon opening it I noticed the manual was piratically stuck onto the unit itself... So i lifted it as gently as I could but I noticed that there still some sort of glue on at the top of the AQ6 and some sort of little gap between the front panel and the pcb board right behind it along with some minor scratches and what looks like marks and burns--pretty visible marks on the front shield--on the front of the unit itself... Should I be worried? Are the marks and scratches due to unit not coming packaged in plastic or it just how it is? :|


There is a plastic film over the unit that needs to be peeled off and it's often really hard to tell the film is even there. What looks like scratches may just be that. As far as the burns go, I think that may be related to the following. Note that the response from Shoggy. He's an Aquacomputer rep here on OCN.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *MeanBruce*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *pennover*
> 
> Thanks
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That black is damn sexy for sure, but I'm gonna spray paint mine white to match my case. Btw. the silver cover plate of my aquaero has some brown markings in the corners, like burn marks. Luckily, it doesn't matter since I'll paint it anyways, but I'm still a bit bummed.
> 
> 
> 
> My stainless stock faceplate also had brown at the exposed edges, on closer inspection it was just oxidation (rust)
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> The brownish marks are mainly caused by the heat of the laser but it is not really burnt there. It is some kind of metallic dust that can be removed with phosphoric acid - sounds pretty dangerous but it can be also found in Coca Cola
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So one can drop it on the affected area, wait about a minute and just rub it dry with a cloth.
Click to expand...


----------



## Swuell

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> There is a plastic film over the unit that needs to be peeled off and it's often really hard to tell the film is even there. What looks like scratches may just be that. As far as the burns go, I think that may be related to the following. Note that the response from Shoggy. He's an Aquacomputer rep here on OCN.


Oh is the plastic film just over the front face plate? And also so as far as phosphoric acid goes--otherwise coke--are you telling me to just pour a drop of coke on it? If so I wonder if I have any coke left... And I've read the manual and I'm still somewhat at loss with this device... :O It's such a mystery lol.. Like could I monitor my temps for my gpu and cpu, does it support that? I'm sure it does but for some reason I'm getting myself confused now XD.

Also I didn't know it only came with 4 fan outputs! >__< Now I need to order an pwm splitter... XD. (It can recognize all the fans even connected via splitter right?)

Thanks for the response.

EDIT: I was also wondering if the 1 fan output would support 2 noctua industrial fans + 2 scythe slipstreams 2000 rpm for a total of 4 fans? Or should I also use a pwm splitter with molex or would a simple pwm splitter do?


----------



## Mega Man

ether or, i run over 40 fans from all 4 channels !

but only if the fans are pwm you are trying to control, if not then you may need a different one depending


----------



## Swuell

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> ether or, i run over 40 fans from all 4 channels !
> 
> but only if the fans are pwm you are trying to control, if not then you may need a different one depending


They're all PWM fans. I'm just wondering if a simple PWM fan splitter would work or do I need to have to get a pwm splitter with molex instead? I only have one fan that's not PWM and that's simply because that's the fan that came with the case and I've yet to replace it.

And it can monitor multiple temps right and so I should pour a drop of coke on it.. to clean it?

And I'm slightly confused on how to even connect my aio pump.. is it through the aquabus that comes with the unit?? :|

I'm like reading through this whole menu and it doesn't really tell me how to connect anything... I'm just soo confused







. Help a noob on this aquaero, anyone? haha.


----------



## Swuell

Also from this guide http://www.specialtechforums.co.uk/showthread.php?3393-NAMS-NEW-BASIC-GUIDE-to-the-AQUAERO-5 apparently we need this http://www.frozencpu.com/products/23105/bus-374/Aquacomputer_Aquaero_Power_Connect_-_24_pin_ATX_Standby_Power_ATX_Break.html#blank for the Aquaero for stand by power and to shut the computer down -- is this necessary?

And if I want to do this whats the other connector that helps to connect the standy power atx to the aquaero? Since on the guide I couldn't see the picture, cuz the picture for some reason wouldn't show up :\.

Thanks.


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Swuell*
> 
> Also from this guide http://www.specialtechforums.co.uk/showthread.php?3393-NAMS-NEW-BASIC-GUIDE-to-the-AQUAERO-5 apparently we need this http://www.frozencpu.com/products/23105/bus-374/Aquacomputer_Aquaero_Power_Connect_-_24_pin_ATX_Standby_Power_ATX_Break.html#blank for the Aquaero for stand by power and to shut the computer down -- is this necessary?
> 
> And if I want to do this whats the other connector that helps to connect the standy power atx to the aquaero? Since on the guide I couldn't see the picture, cuz the picture for some reason wouldn't show up :\.
> 
> Thanks.


The adaptor isn't actually needed, it is just a simple plug and play method. To replicate it all you need to do is wire the standby header to your standard cables. Or you can wire one of the relays to the power switch.
The plug on the ATX power break / standby is just a 2 pin fan connector.

I had a wiring diagram but now I can't find it. Someone will have it.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Swuell*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> ether or, i run over 40 fans from all 4 channels !
> 
> but only if the fans are pwm you are trying to control, if not then you may need a different one depending
> 
> 
> 
> They're all PWM fans. I'm just wondering if a simple PWM fan splitter would work or do I need to have to get a pwm splitter with molex instead? I only have one fan that's not PWM and that's simply because that's the fan that came with the case and I've yet to replace it.
> 
> And it can monitor multiple temps right and so I should pour a drop of coke on it.. to clean it?
> 
> And I'm slightly confused on how to even connect my aio pump.. is it through the aquabus that comes with the unit?? :|
> 
> I'm like reading through this whole menu and it doesn't really tell me how to connect anything... I'm just soo confused
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Help a noob on this aquaero, anyone? haha.
Click to expand...

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Swuell*
> 
> Also from this guide http://www.specialtechforums.co.uk/showthread.php?3393-NAMS-NEW-BASIC-GUIDE-to-the-AQUAERO-5 apparently we need this http://www.frozencpu.com/products/23105/bus-374/Aquacomputer_Aquaero_Power_Connect_-_24_pin_ATX_Standby_Power_ATX_Break.html#blank for the Aquaero for stand by power and to shut the computer down -- is this necessary?
> 
> And if I want to do this whats the other connector that helps to connect the standy power atx to the aquaero? Since on the guide I couldn't see the picture, cuz the picture for some reason wouldn't show up :\.
> 
> Thanks.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Swuell*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> you should try it with 4 >.> only time i dont get it is using my fq res
> the older aq6s can not control as many as the newer ones, the newer ones have a different resistor , pretty much a non issue by now though if you just bought it you are fine
> >.< oh no !
> 
> 
> 
> Ohhh ok. Well I just received my unit and upon opening it I noticed the manual was piratically stuck onto the unit itself... So i lifted it as gently as I could but I noticed that there still some sort of glue on at the top of the AQ6 and some sort of little gap between the front panel and the pcb board right behind it along with some minor scratches and what looks like marks and burns--pretty visible marks on the front shield--on the front of the unit itself... Should I be worried? Are the marks and scratches due to unit not coming packaged in plastic or it just how it is? :|
Click to expand...

The Aquaero is an amazing controller, and it is pretty daunting at first . . . . .

I'd suggest taking a deep breath and exhale slowly . . . take it a step at a time.

Let's work at connecting things up 1 at a time . . . . . Lots less problems that way.

It's pretty unusual for someone to want to control an AIO pump, but since you want to do it, and it can be done . . . . keep in mind that when you do that, you can't plug your PWM fans into the pump any more. . . . . You'll have to use an Aquaero channel to control the fans.

You'll need an adapter cable to allow the pump's molex to connect to the Aquaero's fan output, so a molex to 3 pin adapter is what you're looking for there.

An Aquaero channel can supply plenty of power for just an AIO pump.

Now with the pump connection addressed, you'll need a PWM splitter for the fans. . . . . You'll want a block one like the Swiftech or a cable one like the Akasa that has a molex or sata connector to get power for the fans from the PSU, and then connects its 4 pin fan header to the Aquaero for PWM control of all the fans plugged onto it, and it will report the rpm from 1 fan.

Let's get that part working, and them look at additional things you want to do.

Just getting the basic part you want will help you get familiar with Aquasuite, so other things don't seem quite so mysterious.

Darlene

Edit to Add:

I'd suggest getting your fans set up on the Aquaero first with the pump plugged into the PSU.

You want to get familiar with Aquasuite and hold minimum power and how to set ranges, so that you don't risk setting a curve for the pump that may lower the voltage to where it shuts off accidentally.

You're going to have to do a little experimenting to see how much you can under-volt the pump and still have it be reliable. . . .


----------



## Swuell

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> The adaptor isn't actually needed, it is just a simple plug and play method. To replicate it all you need to do is wire the standby header to your standard cables. Or you can wire one of the relays to the power switch.
> The plug on the ATX power break / standby is just a 2 pin fan connector.
> 
> I had a wiring diagram but now I can't find it. Someone will have it.


So I can use my standard cables is what your saying?? And I hope somebody has it because so far this is beyond me lol... Thanks though!








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> The Aquaero is an amazing controller, and it is pretty daunting at first . . . . .
> 
> I'd suggest taking a deep breath and exhale slowly . . . take it a step at a time.
> 
> Let's work at connecting things up 1 at a time . . . . . Lots less problems that way.
> 
> It's pretty unusual for someone to want to control an AIO pump, but since you want to do it, and it can be done . . . . keep in mind that when you do that, you can't plug your PWM fans into the pump any more. . . . . You'll have to use an Aquaero channel to control the fans.
> 
> You'll need an adapter cable to allow the pump's molex to connect to the Aquaero's fan output, so a molex to 3 pin adapter is what you're looking for there.
> 
> An Aquaero channel can supply plenty of power for just an AIO pump.
> 
> Now with the pump connection addressed, you'll need a PWM splitter for the fans. . . . . You'll want a block one like the Swiftech or a cable one like the Akasa that has a molex or sata connector to get power for the fans from the PSU, and then connects its 4 pin fan header to the Aquaero for PWM control of all the fans plugged onto it, and it will report the rpm from 1 fan.
> 
> Let's get that part working, and them look at additional things you want to do.
> 
> Just getting the basic part you want will help you get familiar with Aquasuite, so other things don't seem quite so mysterious.
> 
> Darlene
> 
> Edit to Add:
> 
> I'd suggest getting your fans set up on the Aquaero first with the pump plugged into the PSU.
> 
> You want to get familiar with Aquasuite and hold minimum power and how to set ranges, so that you don't risk setting a curve for the pump that may lower the voltage to where it shuts off accidentally.
> 
> You're going to have to do a little experimenting to see how much you can under-volt the pump and still have it be reliable. . . .


Yesss haha after having trouble opening the box--I couldn't figure it out...







--I was just so awestruck at the build quality of this controller, especially after looking at the pamphlet (quick start guide) and then looking at the manual; which just made me even more confused lol!

Ah thank you for pointing that fact out--I had sort of figured that out--but I wasn't sure if it was exactly right or the other possibility could be done or not; I just didn't want to try out the other possibility for fear of breaking a $200+ fan controller haha







. But yes I do agree for wanting to control an AIO pump it is quite odd lol... except it was essentially just to maintain some more control is all--I would rather have an actual water cooling pump but due to costs I cannot--so I'm stuck with an AIO hah







.

Ok so I do have an 3 pin splitter with molex cable coming in already, would that also work or do I need to go ahead and get the straight molex to 3pin adapter cable?
And also a question regarding the AIO pump, how many pumps can the aquaero support/read and if I were to hook not only the AIO of the GPU but also the AIO of the CPU the AIO of the CPU would still be able to be maintained by the cpu even though the pump is connected to the aquaero right (keeping check of the cpu temps and stuff), in which I assume this is where I would be using the thermo meters to measure the temperatures, correct?

I have two 4pwm splitter cable with molex coming in already so I'm assuming that will work? And also if you don't mind would you mind telling me why the fans would require the molex if the aquero already supports 30w (or more I forgot how much) per channel? Is it so it doesn't overload it?

I'll definitely do as you say I'm just wondering and asking the necessary questions so I can learn more is all. Sorry if it's a bit troublesome! Please bare with me!!








Yeah I haven't even looked at Aquasuite, I did however notice there were some features exclusive to the software and vice versa haha.

Ohh ok. Though for the undervolting is that only applicable on the variable speed pumps or also on the non variable speed ones? Since the I have both--the Kraken X31 (is a variable speed) and the H100 (is the normal non variable speed)--so I'm not sure which one you could undervolt or if you could undervolt both, for the variable speed what else could I do further with it?

Thank you so much for the response and wealth of information by the way!!







:thumb:
You have definitely made the connecting part seem much easier haha -- I somehow psyched msyelf out!


----------



## tarui04

is there anyway to power off the pc in the event of pump failure? I am keen on either changing the D5 pump to a AQC pump, flow meter or those bay meters or something.


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Swuell*
> 
> So I can use my standard cables is what your saying?? And I hope somebody has it because so far this is beyond me lol... Thanks though!


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tarui04*
> 
> is there anyway to power off the pc in the event of pump failure? I am keen on either changing the D5 pump to a AQC pump, flow meter or those bay meters or something.


There are a few ways to wire it and set it up in the Aquaero



I think this way is probably the easiest because it can be set to simulate either a single push of the power button which shuts the computer down normally or as a long press that kills it.

It can also be wired straight into the PSU cables but that is a hard shutdown no matter what.

I was incorrect when I posted above about wiring the standby to the power cables. That isn't really necessary or even possible with the Aq 6


----------



## Freaxy

I'm thinking of buying the aquaero 6 for my upcoming water cooling build, but I read in the OP that it isn't able to power more then 6 corsair PWM fans per channel (I want to 2 channel to control 8 each).
Is there a way around this, or should I just look for other fans?
Also, is the RGB part able to control the Aqua Computer RGB led strip or is the Farbwerk mandatory for that?

It's pretty hard to find good documentation on this device. Although it's pretty straight forward, things like this I can't find.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Freaxy*
> 
> I'm thinking of buying the aquaero 6 for my upcoming water cooling build, but I read in the OP that it isn't able to power more then 6 corsair PWM fans per channel (I want to 2 channel to control 8 each).
> Is there a way around this, or should I just look for other fans?
> Also, is the RGB part able to control the Aqua Computer RGB led strip or is the Farbwerk mandatory for that?
> 
> It's pretty hard to find good documentation on this device. Although it's pretty straight forward, things like this I can't find.


Only the very first ones had issues to a great extent with the Corsair PWM fans.

AC was quick to respond with a component value change that helped a lot.

You should have no problem at all with 8 per channel. It's only once you get to 10 and up, (on a single channel) do you run into issues.

The RGB strip, I can't help with, but some of these guys are pretty familiar with the lighting control capability, no doubt someone will chime in soon.

Darlene


----------



## Freaxy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Only the very first ones had issues to a great extent with the Corsair PWM fans.
> 
> AC was quick to respond with a component value change that helped a lot.
> 
> You should have no problem at all with 8 per channel. It's only once you get to 10 and up, (on a single channel) do you run into issues.
> 
> The RGB strip, I can't help with, but some of these guys are pretty familiar with the lighting control capability, no doubt someone will chime in soon.
> 
> Darlene


Thanks for the quick answer!
That's great, and also great support from aqua computer's side.
Just looked back a page and basically saw my question answered. I really should search better, sorry for that.

I'll wait for the answer on the led strip question, since I couldn't find that one sadly.


----------



## Mega Man

you can not

most led strips are the wrong type common cathode vs common anode

but yea the new add on is the best for them there are other methods too but imo from what i have seen it is a solid method


----------



## Jakusonfire

Yeah, Megaman is right. The RGB header is designed specifically to run a single 3v led. A whole strip is way too much power, and as mentioned it is a common cathode type.
The new strips are designed for the Fabwerk only.

Some people used a custom amplifier that converted the RGB header to the more common, common annode design and boosted the power to run regular LED strips but the Fabwerk is cheaper and more flexible.


----------



## Swuell

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> There are a few ways to wire it and set it up in the Aquaero
> 
> 
> 
> I think this way is probably the easiest because it can be set to simulate either a single push of the power button which shuts the computer down normally or as a long press that kills it.
> 
> It can also be wired straight into the PSU cables but that is a hard shutdown no matter what.
> 
> I was incorrect when I posted above about wiring the standby to the power cables. That isn't really necessary or even possible with the Aq 6


Thanks for that image! What cable would I get so I could wire it up? Understood now, I just thought the standby was still possible due to the accessory since the power port is still there on the AQ6 is all.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Only the very first ones had issues to a great extent with the Corsair PWM fans.
> 
> AC was quick to respond with a component value change that helped a lot.
> 
> You should have no problem at all with 8 per channel. It's only once you get to 10 and up, (on a single channel) do you run into issues.
> 
> The RGB strip, I can't help with, but some of these guys are pretty familiar with the lighting control capability, no doubt someone will chime in soon.
> 
> Darlene


Just realized I had read what you wrote earlier wrong about the connections between the pump and the aquaero. You said the molex to 3pin, so does that mean the pump's 3pin itself would still be connected to the motherboard while the molex to 3pin adapter connects to the aquaero (since I couldn't find you mentioning anything about the pump's 3pin I wanted to confirm) and would this process be the same for the KrakenX31 that I'm planning on connecting to the GPU? :\ Oh and I just found out apparently the variable speed is controlled by voltage on the 3pin of the Kraken x31.

I'm also currently waiting on getting my molex to 3pin adapter cables in right now.


----------



## Freaxy

Thanks for the answers.
I'll get the farbwerk with it then. It seems like the easiest way out


----------



## Gabrielzm

http://www.overclock.net/t/1510328/asus-x99-motherboard-series-official-support-thread-north-american-users-only/4290#post_23339342

I can confirm I have the same problem with mine Aq6 and Aq5 lt in x99 deluxe. I was not aware intel did change specs of usb in recent boards. @Shoggy, are you aware of this? Any chance of a upcoming firmware fix this?

To all here I wish a wonderful 2015


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Swuell*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> There are a few ways to wire it and set it up in the Aquaero
> 
> 
> 
> I think this way is probably the easiest because it can be set to simulate either a single push of the power button which shuts the computer down normally or as a long press that kills it.
> 
> It can also be wired straight into the PSU cables but that is a hard shutdown no matter what.
> 
> I was incorrect when I posted above about wiring the standby to the power cables. That isn't really necessary or even possible with the Aq 6
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for that image! What cable would I get so I could wire it up? Understood now, I just thought the standby was still possible due to the accessory since the power port is still there on the AQ6 is all.
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Only the very first ones had issues to a great extent with the Corsair PWM fans.
> 
> AC was quick to respond with a component value change that helped a lot.
> 
> You should have no problem at all with 8 per channel. It's only once you get to 10 and up, (on a single channel) do you run into issues.
> 
> The RGB strip, I can't help with, but some of these guys are pretty familiar with the lighting control capability, no doubt someone will chime in soon.
> 
> Darlene
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Just realized I had read what you wrote earlier wrong about the connections between the pump and the aquaero. You said the molex to 3pin, so does that mean the pump's 3pin itself would still be connected to the motherboard while the molex to 3pin adapter connects to the aquaero (since I couldn't find you mentioning anything about the pump's 3pin I wanted to confirm) and would this process be the same for the KrakenX31 that I'm planning on connecting to the GPU? :\ Oh and I just found out apparently the variable speed is controlled by voltage on the 3pin of the Kraken x31.
> 
> I'm also currently waiting on getting my molex to 3pin adapter cables in right now.
Click to expand...

I can't keep up with the AIOs and how they connect . . . . probably would help if you post pics with your questions.

I assumed that your AIO has a molex for power and that the 3 pin connector, if it has one, only has a Gnd and a tach wire, (positions 1 & 3 in the plug) to give the CPU header on the mobo a CPU fan rpm indication, but doesn't get its power from the CPU header on the mobo.

To control the AIO pump speed from the Aquaero, you'll need to actually power the pump from the Aquaero, and when you do that, you shouldn't have the pump then control or power the fans.

The Aquaero has an output that outputs a tach signal if you want to use that for the CPU header tach input.

Please post a link to your AIO(s) and some pics . . . I don't want to give you misleading info and folks who use Aquaeros don't usually have AIOs.

Just did a quick look at the Kraken 31 . . with its software control, I'd leave it as is . . . if your other AIOs are similar with CAM software and USB interface, why would you want to give that up?

Darlene


----------



## skupples

funny stuff.

my LED lighting just took a dump 367 days after first use. Like, one one section of the 4 sides of my case strip is left lit.

OK AC, please get more of those hubs in stock, kthx.


----------



## 47 Knucklehead

Well, add me to the list. I'm a long time Aquaero/Aquacomputer Owner and just noticed there is now a group.

I have the following gear in my current build (with the exception of the Fabwerk controller, which is in transit now):

Aquacomputer Aquaero 6 XT USB fan controller, graphic LCD, touch control, IR remote control.
Aquacomputer Front Faceplate for Aquaero 5/6 XT Aluminium - Black (New Version)
Aquacomputer Passive Heatsink for Aquaero 6 - Black
Aquacomputer Temperature Sensor - Inner/Outer Thread G1/4
2 Aquacomputer D5 pumps with USB and Aquabus interface.
Aquacomputer Aquaero "high flow" G1/4 Flow Sensor.
Farbwerk USB/Aquabus 4-channel RGB LED Controller.

It will be moved to my updated build, which I put on hold for a year until last week, once I finish the acrylic pipe work.

[Build Log] Muzzle Flash II: The Sniper


----------



## Swuell

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> I can't keep up with the AIOs and how they connect . . . . probably would help if you post pics with your questions.
> 
> I assumed that your AIO has a molex for power and that the 3 pin connector, if it has one, only has a Gnd and a tach wire, (positions 1 & 3 in the plug) to give the CPU header on the mobo a CPU fan rpm indication, but doesn't get its power from the CPU header on the mobo.
> 
> To control the AIO pump speed from the Aquaero, you'll need to actually power the pump from the Aquaero, and when you do that, you shouldn't have the pump then control or power the fans.
> 
> The Aquaero has an output that outputs a tach signal if you want to use that for the CPU header tach input.
> 
> Please post a link to your AIO(s) and some pics . . . I don't want to give you misleading info and folks who use Aquaeros don't usually have AIOs.
> 
> Just did a quick look at the Kraken 31 . . with its software control, I'd leave it as is . . . if your other AIOs are similar with CAM software and USB interface, why would you want to give that up?
> 
> Darlene


Yes you are correct for the H100 and the Kraken X31 has a usb interface but apparently the USB interface has some issues--makes the pump have screeching noises verified by several other owners of the Kraken X31 or else I wouldn't--and I wasn't necessarily giving it up I was assuming I would connect it the way you told me to while also connecting the usb interface on the motherboard, unless I'm wrong?

The H100 has just the molex for power and the 3pin for the tach wire and Gnd (I just assumed it was rpm) so I thought going with your instructions for the H100 to connect to the aquaero I would connect it via the molex to 3pin adapter (is it male or female by the way?) and also just leave the 3pin on the H100 on the motherboard or would I plug that 3pin into the aquaero also?

Sorry I will definitely do that, here are some links:

http://www.corsair.com/en-us/hydro-series-h100-extreme-performance-liquid-cpu-cooler (I will upload pics in a bit as soon as my phone turns back on and I know but this is what I have to work with T__T)

The Kraken X31 apparently even with it's voltage controlled variable speed is misleading because apparently within several reviews if you wanted to do voltage control you'd have to do that manually since you wouldn't be able to do that within the CAM software and so far the CAM software is not very useful aside from being a resource hog and just for changing LEDS and to look at the pump's rpm that's why :|. And the H100 isn't like the Kraken x31 it doesn't have a usb interface, the Kraken X31 is the only AIO I have that has a USB interface. So I'm not sure if I'm going to stick with putting the USB interface in or not since I've heard bad things about using it.

I couldn't quite find that specific review that had said it but I did find the posts within the Kraken thread here on Overclock that states you can't change the speed as the advertisement had suggested via CAM so it's useless







.
http://www.overclock.net/t/1487012/official-nzxt-kraken-g10-owners-club/1300

So in order to control the variable speed pump I'd still need to connect the Kraken X31 to a fan controller or motherboard and control it via a fan software apparently. Advertisement lies...









edit: here's a link to the Kraken x31 on nzxt site http://www.nzxt.com/product/detail/150-kraken-x31-120mm-liquid-cooler.html
Not sure how useful it is but I'll post the pics I can later with pictures of my build.

Also Happy New Year!!


----------



## Swuell

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *47 Knucklehead*
> 
> Well, add me to the list. I'm a long time Aquaero/Aquacomputer Owner and just noticed there is now a group.
> 
> I have the following gear in my current build (with the exception of the Fabwerk controller, which is in transit now):
> 
> Aquacomputer Aquaero 6 XT USB fan controller, graphic LCD, touch control, IR remote control.
> Aquacomputer Front Faceplate for Aquaero 5/6 XT Aluminium - Black (New Version)
> Aquacomputer Passive Heatsink for Aquaero 6 - Black
> Aquacomputer Temperature Sensor - Inner/Outer Thread G1/4
> 2 Aquacomputer D5 pumps with USB and Aquabus interface.
> Aquacomputer Aquaero "high flow" G1/4 Flow Sensor.
> Farbwerk USB/Aquabus 4-channel RGB LED Controller.
> 
> It will be moved to my updated build, which I put on hold for a year until last week, once I finish the acrylic pipe work.
> 
> [Build Log] Muzzle Flash II: The Sniper


uh... woah. :O









By the way Happy New Year and happy new year everybody else!


----------



## skupples

i hate to say it, but whey spend $300 on a fan controller, but then go with AIOs? I'm being serious, not talking trash. I'm just curious what the rationale is.


----------



## Swuell

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> i hate to say it, but whey spend $300 on a fan controller, but then go with AIOs? I'm being serious, not talking trash. I'm just curious what the rationale is.


I had the AIO's before... >__> If I could I wouldn't have gotten the fan controller... And the rationale behind the fan controller was because it's the only fan controller that can do what I want it to do which is controlling pumps and pwm fans...







. So yeah. If I could of found something cheaper than that I would of gone with that.

It woudn't have made sense if I bought the fan controller first but I didn't, I bought the H100 already a long time ago and the Kraken X31 for my GPU--for my NZXT Kraken G10 mod--which is why it required another A10 since it'd be really insufficient for me to actually go full on watercooling just for a GPU if I didn't already have a full watercooling kit for my CPU.







I just wish at that time I had more money for a much better watercooling kit lie the Swiftech h200 or at least known about it then it'd be easier to just add that to the GPU.

By the way I love your profile pic haha!









And eeeh what's purchased is purchased, and the unit itself just screams German love... I'm so in love with it despite the price haha. So I don't really regret it lol.


----------



## skupples

I understand that beast.

It's basically Aquareo or nothing when it comes to PWM.









It gives you a great foundation to build off of, as it should last you an eternity.

thanks.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Swuell*
> 
> [..] By the way I love your profile pic haha!


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> I understand that beast.


It's still Miley Cyrus isn't it?


----------



## Swuell

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> I understand that beast.
> 
> It's basically Aquareo or nothing when it comes to PWM.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It gives you a great foundation to build off of, as it should last you an eternity.
> 
> thanks.


Yeaap haha! Apparently those were my options lol, I had the NZXT Sentry 3 but that didn't support true PWM apparently nor a pump so when I had found the Lamptron and that's when I later found out--after ordering it XD--that it was only non PWM fans haha! So in which IT Diva told me about Aquareo!









Yesss it screamsss build quality!







I love it haha! It's so awesome! Just pure german genius! Including the box... I couldn't even open the box when I first got it lol...
And you're welcome!









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> It's still Miley Cyrus isn't it?


hahahhaaa naaawww it's cthulhu!!!







It's noice lol business suit and a christmas hat haha!


----------



## XEKong

I torn down my loop today and wiped out the flow meter hoping maybe I some buildup preventing it from reading. Unfortunately, it's a no go. I get a temp reading from it, but that's about it.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> It's still Miley Cyrus isn't it?












nope, was told to take it down by a junior mod, I petitioned, senior mods ignored me.

I Copy / pasted the TOS & asked where exactly it defines my avatar as innaproprieate, and I guess they didn't have a retort outside of "rule 0 - we can make up and enforce any rule we feel like, whenever we feel like, however we feel like" which is SOP for forums.


----------



## CaliLife17

Hello All,

So I am currently leak testing my new build, which will have 2 Aqua D5s in an EK dual top. Right now I have both D5's connected to my AQ6 XT High Speed Aquabus port, via a Splitter. I also have my AQ 6 XT connected to my Mobo via USB header. From what I was reading, I will also need to connect my D5's (one at a time, as I only have 2 USB 2.0 headers on a R5E) to a USB header on my MOBO once I have windows installed, update the firmware and do something in aquasuite so I can control them via the software and the AQ6, is this correct? Sorry for the vagueness as information I have been reading is a little spotty and doesn't really complete detail what I need to do.


----------



## skupples

sounds correct, sorry for vague response.

for whatever reason, some of the aquabus devices require connection w/ the PC via USB before they can be properly controlled via the head unit, just not positive if the D5 falls into the short list.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CaliLife17*
> 
> Hello All,
> 
> So I am currently leak testing my new build, which will have 2 Aqua D5s in an EK dual top. Right now I have both D5's connected to my AQ6 XT High Speed Aquabus port, via a Splitter. I also have my AQ 6 XT connected to my Mobo via USB header. From what I was reading, I will also need to connect my D5's (one at a time, as I only have 2 USB 2.0 headers on a R5E) to a USB header on my MOBO once I have windows installed, update the firmware and do something in aquasuite so I can control them via the software and the AQ6, is this correct? Sorry for the vagueness as information I have been reading is a little spotty and doesn't really complete detail what I need to do.


you need the usb for the d5 to change their default aquabus address. otherwise both on the same Y will have the same address going in to the auqabus port. In fact you just need to change one adress (1 pump) from 12 to 13 for example.


----------



## CaliLife17

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> you need the usb for the d5 to change their default aquabus address. otherwise both on the same Y will have the same address going in to the auqabus port. In fact you just need to change one adress (1 pump) from 12 to 13 for example.


Ahh makes sense, thanks for the info. So there is no firmware update i need to do for the pumps? I kept seeing something about firmware, but i figured it was just for the AQ6 rather than the D5's.


----------



## Malpractis

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> for whatever reason, some of the aquabus devices require connection w/ the PC via USB before they can be properly controlled via the head unit, just not positive if the D5 falls into the short list.


If you've got 2 D5's then yes you need to plug into USB and change the Aquabus address on one of them from 12 (or 13) to 13 (or 14) just add one to whatever it is. Then you can leave them plugged in via aquabus on a splitter to the hi channel. At least I'm 80% sure this is what you have to do, I have been unsuccessful in getting both of mine to respond to commands via Aquabus (or USB). One is fine, the other seems dead (in terms of being controlled, it works, just can't change speed), think I'll need to get in touch with aquacomputer directly


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Malpractis*
> 
> If you've got 2 D5's then yes you need to plug into USB and change the Aquabus address on one of them from 12 (or 13) to 13 (or 14) just add one to whatever it is. Then you can leave them plugged in via aquabus on a splitter to the hi channel. At least I'm 80% sure this is what you have to do, I have been unsuccessful in getting both of mine to respond to commands via Aquabus (or USB). One is fine, the other seems dead (in terms of being controlled, it works, just can't change speed), think I'll need to get in touch with aquacomputer directly


have you change the address as well as set priority to auqabus on both? Have you tried the one not changing rpm on the USB connection to check if you get control over it using usb?

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CaliLife17*
> 
> Ahh makes sense, thanks for the info. So there is no firmware update i need to do for the pumps? I kept seeing something about firmware, but i figured it was just for the AQ6 rather than the D5's.


the firmware is for the Aquaero to run the latest aquasuite you will need to update the firmware for the Aquaero. Be aware however as you loose the low aquabus port (not a problem for a lot of users but if you are currently using it....).


----------



## skupples

I had 3/4 of my LEDs going, but the final 1/4th has bit the dust... it's so dark in my case


----------



## Malpractis

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> have you change the address as well as set priority to auqabus on both? Have you tried the one not changing rpm on the USB connection to check if you get control over it using usb?


Yeah tried both Gab, also completely disconnected the working one from everything and tried USB and Aquabus priority, and on a different address. Shut down comp and removed power for 30sec between each change too. Thinking I must have gotten a dud


----------



## Gabrielzm

sorry to hear that @Malpractis. before you go on RMA try on a different system if you can. Use the USB of a trust proven plataform like x79 or z77 or z87 and test if the pump show up and you gain control over it. I use to use a small reservoir and fitting and tubes for such out of the box tests. good luck mate


----------



## Malpractis

Ohh yeah I haven't tried it on a different mobo yet! good idea mate







Might use my pedestal loop to test it out


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Malpractis*
> 
> Ohh yeah I haven't tried it on a different mobo yet! good idea mate
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Might use my pedestal loop to test it out


someone might have already asked you, but did you plug the USB cable in the correct way, on the mobo?


----------



## Malpractis

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> someone might have already asked you, but did you plug the USB cable in the correct way, on the mobo?


\

Nah they haven't yet. But it wouldn't show up in Aquasuite at all if it wasn't would it? That was what I was using as the assumption I had it around the right way


----------



## Swuell

Anybody know how would I would connect this to a swiftech h220x to be able to control the pump -- changed my H100 to the swiftech H200X!







Would a y pwm powered splitter work?


----------



## VSG

The H220-X comes with a PWM splitter. If you can spare two PWM headers then use it for the fans on one channel and then the pump on another. If not, hook up all 3 on the splitter and control via a single channel on the Aquaero.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Swuell*
> 
> Anybody know how would I would connect this to a swiftech h220x to be able to control the pump -- changed my H100 to the swiftech H200X!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Would a y pwm powered splitter work?


yes you can use the pwm splitter that comes with the h200x to power the pump and plug the splitter pwm to the aquaero.


----------



## Swuell

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> The H220-X comes with a PWM splitter. If you can spare two PWM headers then use it for the fans on one channel and then the pump on another. If not, hook up all 3 on the splitter and control via a single channel on the Aquaero.


Yeah I know about the two pwm headers but heard if you did it that way the pump would not start right for some reason. Or read it more accurately. And would there be any difference having the pump and fans on one channel vs. having the pump and fans on two different channels?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> yes you can use the pwm splitter that comes with the h200x to power the pump and plug the splitter pwm to the aquaero.


Ok glad to know that the included pwm splitter can power the pump and works with the aquaero! Thanks.


----------



## VSG

If you saw my review, you would see that the pump and fans have a different PWM response profile. So if you control them separately then it would be great. But nothing that will be a deal-breaker.


----------



## Swuell

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> If you saw my review, you would see that the pump and fans have a different PWM response profile. So if you control them separately then it would be great. But nothing that will be a deal-breaker.


Oh no I haven't seen our review of it. I just read that the PWM pump wasn't able to be controlled straight from the aquaero 6 so I thought I needed a splitter is all. If it is able to be controlled straight from the Aquaero 6 than what would I need to do to optimize it? Since the last thing that I read about it a poster had mentioned that when he tried to do it the pump would run at 0%. And I'll do 2 channels. I should have enough channels for that at least.


----------



## deeph

Hi,

I got my Aquaero 5 LT this day and Power Adjust 3 Ultra. But I confused how to connect it to 5 LT. I have read Guide on the first page but still not sure.

Then if I'm not mistake, does the PA 3 just directly connect to Aquabus High connector on 5 LT without change the PA 3 into slave mode?

deeph


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *deeph*
> 
> Hi,
> 
> I got my Aquaero 5 LT this day and Power Adjust 3 Ultra. But I confused how to connect it to 5 LT. I have read Guide on the first page but still not sure.
> 
> Then if I'm not mistake, does the PA 3 just directly connect to Aquabus High connector on 5 LT without change the PA 3 into slave mode?
> 
> deeph


I don't have a poweradjust, but I do have a AQ5 LT and have saved away some tidbits of info I found here and there. Perhaps some of this I have saved will help you, at least in the meantime until one of the Aquaero Club members shows up who actually know what they are talking about ...

First, this:



And then this excerpt from Nam's Aquaero 5 Guide:
http://www.specialtechforums.co.uk/showthread.php?3393-NAMS-NEW-BASIC-GUIDE-to-the-AQUAERO-5
Quote:


> On each PA2 your have:
> 
> • 1 x Molex power socket (the PA draws it's power from here & not the Aquaero unit itself)
> • 1 x 5 pin USB connector
> • 1 x Flow sensor connector
> • 1 x Tacho signal connector
> • 1 x Temperature sensor connector (2 pin)
> • 1 x Power output for Fan or Pump
> • 2 x Aquabus connectors (for linking to the main Unit & another Power Adjust 2 (PA2)
> 
> The Power Output for the Fans or Pump has a maximum current carrying capacity of 12v, 2A (25W total power).
> You can Have the PA's Connected through the USB to the Motherboard (for use as a Stand Alone Controller using the Aquasuite 2012 software) or Connect it through it's Aquabus to the Aquaero 5 Aquabus (to only control it from the Aquasuite software) or Indeed using both methodes at the same time.
> Personally I have mine connected Via the Aquabus to the Aquaero 5 high speed aquabus connector with the supplied "Aquabus/RPM Speed Signal Cable"... So I control each of it's attached Sensors from within the Aquasuite Menu's..... You need to have at the very least a Temperature Sensors attached to the PA for that particular sensor to show up in the Aquasuite...


And lastly, this excerpt below I got from here, a Spanish site and the dialogue has been Google Translated (sorry, or if you know Spanish by all means you can go to that link), but I think even with that in mind you still may be able to find it helpful. I know other parts of it helped me:

Quote:


> The poweradjust modules can be connected directly via an internal USB to the board may dispense with the aquaero or connect to aquaero to better control them.
> 
> If you are interested in connecting the Poweradjust 2 to aquaero, you have to make some preparations:
> 
> 1- I recommend disconnecting the computer Aquaero first of all to avoid trouble and connect one internal USB PA2
> 
> 2-Install AquaSuite this specific version (you may have also installed the new version will not affect at all but you need to have this particular to set the PA2): [Removed Aquasuite link]
> 
> 3-Once installed, you should update the firmware of poweradjust to the latest version:



Quote:


> 4-Now it set the ID of the PA2. Each PA2 by default is configured with ID 50. The problem does not change the ID of the PA2 is that the aquaero not know them apart and then just does not show. To do that, we go to the "Startboost and calibration values" tab and once there, change the adress aquabus as seen in the image. It is important to bear different values between each PA2 to work correctly for example 50 and 51 (in the event that you use only two) ..




Quote:


> Highlight than for you to use pumps without rpm signal as some D5 (mcp 655), have to turn off the option that says "active when no speed signal is Measured" as it is a security system so that when the PA2 no signal detected rpm, max power is made but if your pump does not have the rpm signal, pump will always be at 100% and does not allow you to regulate it
> 
> You must repeat this process with each PA2 and especially assign a different ID for each.
> 
> Depending on the version of aquaero, you can connect up to 6 (Aquaero 5) or 8 (Aquaero 6) poweradjust 2. The way to connect poweradjust 2 is a bit quirky and hard to explain, so a picture is worth a thousand words:




Quote:


> And so are chained the PA2. Emphasize that all necessary cables are included for connection to the PA2 own, so no need to buy anything extra.


----------



## deeph

Wow, Thanks for the info. Really appreciated:thumb:
From the first pic, the Aquabus High connector can be wired with some accessories with 3 pin splitter. Then in my case, set the address of PA? Is it correct?


----------



## deeph

Have another question, my gauge on Overview page for fan speed (RPM) stayed at 100% but it actually fluctuate. How do I fix this?


----------



## Swuell

So quote from Skupples in the other Aquaero 6 thread "you only need one flow meter, you only need one pressure sensor, you don't need the heat sink unless you plan to push it to the extreme limits, The aquaero comes with the USB cable, you only need (not even really) one equalizer membrane, you only need one inline temp sensor. I would be surprised if the reservoir doesn't come with it's own mounting accessories, but as it shows "recommended accessories" i'm not sure."

I was wondering if he was referring to the inline AquaComputer temperature sensor--if so that works with our Aquaero 6 because it's not listed--and also where do we put the included 4 temperature thermometers?

Unic0nhunter thoughts and would I be able to plug in my swiftech h220x into the aquabus for rpm in the rpm line (though that takes that one channel) so is there a way to increase that channel to 2--so I could use it for the flow meter--or could I just plug the rpm line into a 3pin header? :\


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Swuell*
> 
> So quote from Skupples in the other Aquaero 6 thread "you only need one flow meter, you only need one pressure sensor, you don't need the heat sink unless you plan to push it to the extreme limits, The aquaero comes with the USB cable, you only need (not even really) one equalizer membrane, you only need one inline temp sensor. I would be surprised if the reservoir doesn't come with it's own mounting accessories, but as it shows "recommended accessories" i'm not sure."
> 
> I was wondering if he was referring to the inline AquaComputer temperature sensor--if so that works with our Aquaero 6 because it's not listed--and also where do we put the included 4 temperature thermometers?
> 
> Unic0nhunter thoughts and would I be able to plug in my swiftech h220x into the aquabus for rpm in the rpm line (though that takes that one channel) so is there a way to increase that channel to 2--so I could use it for the flow meter--or could I just plug the rpm line into a 3pin header? :\


Why would you want to connect the h220x to the aquabus? Connecting the pump to a pwm fan header would give you the rpm. The flow meter can then go to the aquabus. And yes you can use a y to split the aquabus port and assign different aquabus addresses to your devices.


----------



## Swuell

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Why would you want to connect the h220x to the aquabus? Connecting the pump to a pwm fan header would give you the rpm. The flow meter can then go to the aquabus. And yes you can use a y to split the aquabus port and assign different aquabus addresses to your devices.


I don't necessary want to I just thought it had two of them... I'm not familiar with the H200-X... Sorry. :\ Didn't know the pwm would give off the pwm also. And to stop the motherboard from thinking there's no cooler I'm guessing I'd either have to disable it in BIOS or connect the rpm line from the aquabus correct?

Is there a specific aquabus y splitter or just a generic y splitter will work? I found one that was labeled--and made my aqua computer--but just wondering if others will work if I should get the one from aquacomputer. Still new to this...


----------



## XEKong

What is a good 140mm case fan that will power down and not grind. The stock 900D rear fan is driving me nuts when I slow it down.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Swuell*
> 
> I don't necessary want to I just thought it had two of them... I'm not familiar with the H200-X... Sorry. :\ Didn't know the pwm would give off the pwm also. And to stop the motherboard from thinking there's no cooler I'm guessing I'd either have to disable it in BIOS or connect the rpm line from the aquabus correct?
> 
> Is there a specific aquabus y splitter or just a generic y splitter will work? I found one that was labeled--and made my aqua computer--but just wondering if others will work if I should get the one from aquacomputer. Still new to this...


Aquabus is a connection for the devices listed in the manual (Aquacomputer stuff like pump, flow meters and so on). Furthermore the low aquabus is only for a handful of devices (tubemeter comes to mind) while the high is used for the more modern devices (full list on the manual). The Aquaero have a connection that will send the rpm to the mb if you don't have (or don't want) to disable the rpm alarm on the cpu_fan header of the MB. So, so far as I known you can't connect your AIO to the aquabus port but it certainly can be set up properly with the AQuaero and MB. Hope it helps








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *XEKong*
> 
> What is a good 140mm case fan that will power down and not grind. The stock 900D rear fan is driving me nuts when I slow it down.


That is always a moot/personal choice. I have good experience with Phanteks fans. Akasa viper/apache series are also good ones. Do you want pwm or voltage regulated? do you want any specific color?


----------



## Swuell

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Aquabus is a connection for the devices listed in the manual (Aquacomputer stuff like pump, flow meters and so on). Furthermore the low aquabus is only for a handful of devices (tubemeter comes to mind) while the high is used for the more modern devices (full list on the manual). The Aquaero have a connection that will send the rpm to the mb if you don't have (or don't want) to disable the rpm alarm on the cpu_fan header of the MB. So, so far as I known you can't connect your AIO to the aquabus port but it certainly can be set up properly with the AQuaero and MB. Hope it helps
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That is always a moot/personal choice. I have good experience with Phanteks fans. Akasa viper/apache series are also good ones. Do you want pwm or voltage regulated? do you want any specific color?


Read the manual through and got a little confused... forgot there was a high and low.

Just rechecked and it doesn't tell me whether the aquacomputer inline temperature sensor for the aquaero xt--http://www.sidewindercomputers.com/inteseforaqa.html--is compatible or not... All I know is "Aquainlet XT series and Aqualis XT series are compaible" I'm not sure if that temperature counts as which one..?


----------



## Freaxy

According to aqua computer's site it is compatible:
http://shop.aquacomputer.de/product_info.php?products_id=2291

I checked this myself too since I wanted the same one.


----------



## Swuell

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Freaxy*
> 
> According to aqua computer's site it is compatible:
> http://shop.aquacomputer.de/product_info.php?products_id=2291
> 
> I checked this myself too since I wanted the same one.


Thanks I wasn't able to confirm it! Thank you for confirming it! What exactly does the inline do, does it measure the temperature inside the water and how many would be needed actually?

Also possibly know some good places to put the included temperature sensors? And do you know if theres possibly a splitter that we can get for the sensors...? Seeing as how we can run out of available ports fast lol.


----------



## XEKong

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Aquabus is a connection for the devices listed in the manual (Aquacomputer stuff like pump, flow meters and so on). Furthermore the low aquabus is only for a handful of devices (tubemeter comes to mind) while the high is used for the more modern devices (full list on the manual). The Aquaero have a connection that will send the rpm to the mb if you don't have (or don't want) to disable the rpm alarm on the cpu_fan header of the MB. So, so far as I known you can't connect your AIO to the aquabus port but it certainly can be set up properly with the AQuaero and MB. Hope it helps
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That is always a moot/personal choice. I have good experience with Phanteks fans. Akasa viper/apache series are also good ones. Do you want pwm or voltage regulated? do you want any specific color?


The two I don't like is the Cougar orange and the Noctura brown. I have a Coolermaster 140 fan, but it's very picky on its start up voltage. It takes 100% start boost for it run on boot, and I can't drop it below 60% or it shuts down.

How does the Scythe fans cope with the Aquaero? I have owned several of the 120mm GT versions on my Corsair AIO coolers. I like those despite getting used to their sound.

I did order a new 3 pin fan splitter from Frozen CPU today. I am going to rearange how my case fans are split on my Aquaero. That might fix some of the current fan's clicking problems.


----------



## deeph

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Aquabus is a connection for the devices listed in the manual (Aquacomputer stuff like pump, flow meters and so on). Furthermore the low aquabus is only for a handful of devices (tubemeter comes to mind) while the high is used for the more modern devices (full list on the manual). The Aquaero have a connection that will send the rpm to the mb if you don't have (or don't want) to disable the rpm alarm on the cpu_fan header of the MB. So, so far as I known you can't connect your AIO to the aquabus port but it certainly can be set up properly with the AQuaero and MB. Hope it helps


I either confused with the connection. Regarding Aquabus connection, do I need to update the firmware of the Power Adjust? For your information, I will connect only one Power Adjust.


----------



## Swuell

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *XEKong*
> 
> The two I don't like is the Cougar orange and the Noctura brown. I have a Coolermaster 140 fan, but it's very picky on its start up voltage. It takes 100% start boost for it run on boot, and I can't drop it below 60% or it shuts down.
> 
> How does the Scythe fans cope with the Aquaero? I have owned several of the 120mm GT versions on my Corsair AIO coolers. I like those despite getting used to their sound.
> 
> I did order a new 3 pin fan splitter from Frozen CPU today. I am going to rearange how my case fans are split on my Aquaero. That might fix some of the current fan's clicking problems.


Noctura has a black with dark brown they're the industrial series and goes up higher than 3,000pwm... so I'd check those out. They're pretty sick looking and dust resistant along with some other extras.


----------



## Freaxy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Swuell*
> 
> Thanks I wasn't able to confirm it! Thank you for confirming it! What exactly does the inline do, does it measure the temperature inside the water and how many would be needed actually?
> 
> Also possibly know some good places to put the included temperature sensors? And do you know if theres possibly a splitter that we can get for the sensors...? Seeing as how we can run out of available ports fast lol.


To be honest, I have no idea. It's gonna be my first custom water cooling loop








So basicly I'm in the same boat as you are.
I'm just waiting for EK to release the waterblocks for the Gigabyte GTX 980 Gaming G1 so I can start building it.


----------



## skupples

so...

when are the AC LED modules going to go on sale again? I easily lost 10FPS from my LEDs dying.



































Just like when the double bladed chrome windshield wipers went bad on my lac.

@Shoggy


----------



## Swuell

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Freaxy*
> 
> To be honest, I have no idea. It's gonna be my first custom water cooling loop
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So basicly I'm in the same boat as you are.
> I'm just waiting for EK to release the waterblocks for the Gigabyte GTX 980 Gaming G1 so I can start building it.


WELCOME







haha. We're in this together lol! Show me yours when your done and I'll show you mine lol...








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> so...
> 
> when are the AC LED modules going to go on sale again? I easily lost 10FPS from my LEDs dying.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just like when the double bladed chrome windshield wipers went bad on my lac.
> 
> @Shoggy


@Skupples! Hwelp!!! Optimal sensor placement and what do the temperature sensors that go on the loop do... and how many should you get haha...? I'm trying to get everything so I can press the buy button in one go XD.

Also know what a remote port filling is??? I can't seem to get what that is no matter the amount of searching I do... I understand the concept but to wrap my head around it.. do you just stick a tube on that? If so than what was the point of buying that extra fitting when you could of done it with another... -__-.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Swuell*
> 
> Thanks I wasn't able to confirm it! Thank you for confirming it! What exactly does the inline do, does it measure the temperature inside the water and how many would be needed actually?
> 
> Also possibly know some good places to put the included temperature sensors? And do you know if theres possibly a splitter that we can get for the sensors...? Seeing as how we can run out of available ports fast lol.


Mate, you have 8 headers available in the Aquaero for temperature sensors. That's is plenty. The placement of temp sensors is up to you. Good places are usually an intake for the case, places that can get hot and you want local measure of that (VRM of cards) and so on. The water temp sensor also goes on the 8 headers. You need just one for loop to get an idea of the water temp, especially in regard to the ambient temperature which give you the possibility of calculate the delta between the two.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *deeph*
> 
> I either confused with the connection. Regarding Aquabus connection, do I need to update the firmware of the Power Adjust? For your information, I will connect only one Power Adjust.


never used power adjust mate sorry. But if you want to use the new aquasuite software the Aquaero itself will be updated to the new firmware. If the Power adjust need an update too it will be flagged as such in Aquasuite I suspect.


----------



## skupples

Only need one temp sensor for your water,

and really, as far as air goes, put one on either side of any rad if you want to measure delta.

You can then track one to your mobo VRMs (if your mobo still has those) & stuff like that.

I only have 3 physical temp sensors going right now. Water, & intake/outtake of my front radiator.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Swuell*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Freaxy*
> 
> According to aqua computer's site it is compatible:
> http://shop.aquacomputer.de/product_info.php?products_id=2291
> 
> I checked this myself too since I wanted the same one.
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks I wasn't able to confirm it! Thank you for confirming it! What exactly does the inline do, does it measure the temperature inside the water and how many would be needed actually?
> 
> Also possibly know some good places to put the included temperature sensors? And do you know if theres possibly a splitter that we can get for the sensors...? Seeing as how we can run out of available ports fast lol.
Click to expand...

inline means that it is a round fitting and reads temps from inside, usually shunned as they ( the ac ones ) are highly inaccurate

temps for your loop change very little. generally most people only use 1 sensor placed where ever,

some people use 2 to get a delta temp ( aka a temp change ) and placement is up to you ( inlet of rads and outlet tends to be most common placed.

that is just inside your loop

i have yet to see a temp sensor with the 2 pin connector that is NOT compatible they are just 10k thermistor

as to around your case again put them where ever you want to see a temp, be careful as you can short out things if the yellow tape is punctured however it is unlikely


----------



## skupples

I've been using the BP inline temp sensor, from what I can tell, it's just your normal thermistor stuck inside a brass / plastic fitting, that reads the temp off of the metal contacting the water. That is to say, they're nothing special.


----------



## Freaxy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Swuell*
> 
> WELCOME
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> haha. We're in this together lol! Show me yours when your done and I'll show you mine lol...


I sure will!

Everyone thanks for the tips. I only ordered one temp sensor so it should be fine.
As for the additional temp sensors included with the aquaero they will probably go on intake and outtake.


----------



## Domiro

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> inline means that it is a round fitting and reads temps from inside, usually shunned as they ( the ac ones ) are highly inaccurate


Does this only account for the AC inline sensors or is it a general issue with inline sensors?


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Domiro*
> 
> Does this only account for the AC inline sensors or is it a general issue with inline sensors?


You can always calibrate your temp sensors prior to use outside the box using a cup with a liquid with known temperatures. That been said I am not fully convinced the AC ones are highly inaccurate. Mega Man, did you do any test on it or read this somewhere? From my own testing I too though they were highly inaccurate until I realize I was testing them in a wrong way (all of them inside a cup with other sensor on it). It was made to read from the internal wall and not to be submerged or on air alone. If placed on a test loop with bitspower temp cap sensor I got the same reading (around 0.2 - 0.4 C differences) between the all the temp sensors.

http://www.overclock.net/t/1501978/ocn-community-water-cooling-test-thread/400#post_23121244


----------



## Mega Man

You can calibrate them. But the reason they are inaccurate is they take tool long to change temps as they are buried too deep. In the fitting to change with in reasonable times. I don't have links atm on my phone

On second thought I think I am confusing these online sensors with the built in temp sensors on the mps sensors my bad


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> You can calibrate them. But the reason they are inaccurate is they take tool long to change temps as they are buried too deep. In the fitting to change with in reasonable times. I don't have links atm on my phone
> 
> On second thought I think I am confusing these online sensors with the built in temp sensors on the mps sensors my bad


Yep, those on the MPS devices are always off by 3 or 4 degrees up in my experience


----------



## Swuell

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Mate, you have 8 headers available in the Aquaero for temperature sensors. That's is plenty. The placement of temp sensors is up to you. Good places are usually an intake for the case, places that can get hot and you want local measure of that (VRM of cards) and so on. The water temp sensor also goes on the 8 headers. You need just one for loop to get an idea of the water temp, especially in regard to the ambient temperature which give you the possibility of calculate the delta between the two.
> never used power adjust mate sorry. But if you want to use the new aquasuite software the Aquaero itself will be updated to the new firmware. If the Power adjust need an update too it will be flagged as such in Aquasuite I suspect.


Oh... I thought I needed more than that since I saw some post where some guy had like 16 sensors!! So I wasn't sure how many you actually needed? :\ A bit new to this... I thought the ports themselves were plenty enough till I realized the were together. So for the local measures of say the VRM of cards and cpu temps how and where would you place the sensors? Yeah I had realized the water temp sensor also goes on the 8 headers that's why I thought we'd run out of headers fast haha seeing as how I wanted to measure my radiators too. Oh only one?!! Then why did some guy have like 16??? And where would the best place be to put that inline for the water and why? I also haven't even touched the Aquasuite software yet...

Thanks for the response by the way!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> Only need one temp sensor for your water,
> 
> and really, as far as air goes, put one on either side of any rad if you want to measure delta.
> 
> You can then track one to your mobo VRMs (if your mobo still has those) & stuff like that.
> 
> I only have 3 physical temp sensors going right now. Water, & intake/outtake of my front radiator.


Oh thank you that helps alot! I was wondering why somebody had bought so many inline water temperature sensors... (For you're mobo VRM's how would you check if you're mobo has VRM's) and where and how would you place one for CPU temp?

Oh.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> inline means that it is a round fitting and reads temps from inside, usually shunned as they ( the ac ones ) are highly inaccurate
> 
> temps for your loop change very little. generally most people only use 1 sensor placed where ever,
> 
> some people use 2 to get a delta temp ( aka a temp change ) and placement is up to you ( inlet of rads and outlet tends to be most common placed.
> 
> that is just inside your loop
> 
> i have yet to see a temp sensor with the 2 pin connector that is NOT compatible they are just 10k thermistor
> 
> as to around your case again put them where ever you want to see a temp, be careful as you can short out things if the yellow tape is punctured however it is unlikely


Oh I didn't know they were that inaccurate. (the ac ones?)
If you're using 2 where would you put the second one compared to the first one, oh.

Oh. Thanks!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> I've been using the BP inline temp sensor, from what I can tell, it's just your normal thermistor stuck inside a brass / plastic fitting, that reads the temp off of the metal contacting the water. That is to say, they're nothing special.


Thank you!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Freaxy*
> 
> I sure will!
> 
> Everyone thanks for the tips. I only ordered one temp sensor so it should be fine.
> As for the additional temp sensors included with the aquaero they will probably go on intake and outtake.


Haha can't wait!









Going to get a temp sensor as well lol... now about that mps flow meter XD.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Yep, those on the MPS devices are always off by 3 or 4 degrees up in my experience


I was also wondering which mps sensors would be good to get: the mps 100 or the mps 200? Since I will be linking the 450ml Aqualis with fountain effect to the Swfitech h220-x which makes it to have a total of 700ml I was wondering if the mps 100 would be sufficient enough--since it's a bit cheaper and I'm a little tight on funds--or should I just opt for the mps 200? Also would the swiftech h220-x pump be enough to power the aqualis 450ml with waterfall effect or do i need another pump?


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Swuell*
> 
> Oh... I thought I needed more than that since I saw some post where some guy had like 16 sensors!! So I wasn't sure how many you actually needed? :\ A bit new to this... I thought the ports themselves were plenty enough till I realized the were together. So for the local measures of say the VRM of cards and cpu temps how and where would you place the sensors? Yeah I had realized the water temp sensor also goes on the 8 headers that's why I thought we'd run out of headers fast haha seeing as how I wanted to measure my radiators too. Oh only one?!! Then why did some guy have like 16??? And where would the best place be to put that inline for the water and why? I also haven't even touched the Aquasuite software yet...
> 
> Thanks for the response by the way!
> Oh thank you that helps alot! I was wondering why somebody had bought so many inline water temperature sensors... (For you're mobo VRM's how would you check if you're mobo has VRM's) and where and how would you place one for CPU temp?
> 
> Oh.
> Oh I didn't know they were that inaccurate. (the ac ones?)
> If you're using 2 where would you put the second one compared to the first one, oh.
> 
> Oh. Thanks!
> Thank you!
> Haha can't wait!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Going to get a temp sensor as well lol... now about that mps flow meter XD.
> I was also wondering which mps sensors would be good to get: the mps 100 or the mps 200? Since I will be linking the 450ml Aqualis with fountain effect to the Swfitech h220-x which makes it to have a total of 700ml I was wondering if the mps 100 would be sufficient enough--since it's a bit cheaper and I'm a little tight on funds--or should I just opt for the mps 200? Also would the swiftech h220-x pump be enough to power the aqualis 450ml with waterfall effect or do i need another pump?


go for the mps 400 mate. That would give you readings ranging from 0.3 to 2 GPM. The 100 and 200 would not reach that high. That pump should have enough power. However, that been said, the h220 was a very restrictive kit due to the rad with flow around 0.5 gpm. Not sure how the h220-x perform on the flow side of things. VSG (@geggeg) do you have that data?


----------



## deeph

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> never used power adjust mate sorry. But if you want to use the new aquasuite software the Aquaero itself will be updated to the new firmware. If the Power adjust need an update too it will be flagged as such in Aquasuite I suspect.


I will give it a try


----------



## Mega Man

if cost is an issue dont buy the mps sensor ~


----------



## Squeaks5635

Does anyone know if you can keep certain outputs running after you power off the computer. I would like to keep my led lights running at 1% while the computer is off. The controller I have for that output will keep it there but I have not been able to find a way to keep the A6 on after shutting down the computer.


----------



## Mega Man

problem is is it uses 12v the psus only have 5v stand by

so.... not possible unless you used less then 500ma ( iirc ) 5v dc


----------



## fast_fate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Squeaks5635*
> 
> Does anyone know if you can keep certain outputs running after you power off the computer. I would like to keep my led lights running at 1% while the computer is off. The controller I have for that output will keep it there but I have not been able to find a way to keep the A6 on after shutting down the computer.


Only way is to run a secondary PSU, for accessory devices such as Aqauero, pumps, fans, lighting ect.
There is a detailed how to for the neatest, simplest way to implement a secondary psu in my *Salive8* using a relay.
This is the end result of my experimentation, how it got to this stage is in the previous pages








*EDIT:* starting here


----------



## Swuell

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> go for the mps 400 mate. That would give you readings ranging from 0.3 to 2 GPM. The 100 and 200 would not reach that high. That pump should have enough power. However, that been said, the h220 was a very restrictive kit due to the rad with flow around 0.5 gpm. Not sure how the h220-x perform on the flow side of things. VSG (@geggeg) do you have that data?


Yeah I'd go for the mps 400 but if the readings that the h220-x only go up to 0.5gpm than 400 would be pretty much a waste on a system that I plan to keep for a couple years till I upgrade... And you should the pump should have enough power but the rad is holding it back? So does that mean if I have two more rads added it would help with the gpm, specifically the nemesis ice gtx? If so by how much? And do you know how high the 100 and 200 goes up to?

I don't really see a reason to get the the 400 if I can't even really use it up to that since the h220-x doesn't go all the way up there... :| aside from being on a bit of a budget.

Though I may add another pump later on but the pump itself on the h220-x is powerful enough, as you said yourself. The only thing I can't really do is fix the rad on the h220-x (that I know of) unless I want to lose warranty. Or can I fix the h220-x's rad?

Thanks by the way.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> if cost is an issue dont buy the mps sensor ~


Well I wanted one and could save up for one but that doesn't mean I'm going to go out and buy the most expensive one... I'm still on a budget.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Squeaks5635*
> 
> Does anyone know if you can keep certain outputs running after you power off the computer. I would like to keep my led lights running at 1% while the computer is off. The controller I have for that output will keep it there but I have not been able to find a way to keep the A6 on after shutting down the compute


this company makes a unit that allows a timer on the second PSU so that it stays on for x amount of time, after the main unit kicks off. You can then get a tiny little baby PSU to run all of your peripherals. Just use it to power your lights, fans, & the AQ6.


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> go for the mps 400 mate. That would give you readings ranging from 0.3 to 2 GPM. The 100 and 200 would not reach that high. That pump should have enough power. However, that been said, the h220 was a very restrictive kit due to the rad with flow around 0.5 gpm. Not sure how the h220-x perform on the flow side of things. VSG (@geggeg) do you have that data?


Really good actually. Adding in the flowmeter still resulted in a > 1 GPM flow. Definitely a setup worth expanding upon if desired.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Swuell*
> 
> Yeah I'd go for the mps 400 but if the readings that the h220-x only go up to 0.5gpm than 400 would be pretty much a waste on a system that I plan to keep for a couple years till I upgrade... And you should the pump should have enough power but the rad is holding it back? So does that mean if I have two more rads added it would help with the gpm, specifically the nemesis ice gtx? If so by how much? And do you know how high the 100 and 200 goes up to?
> 
> I don't really see a reason to get the the 400 if I can't even really use it up to that since the h220-x doesn't go all the way up there... :| aside from being on a bit of a budget.
> 
> Though I may add another pump later on but the pump itself on the h220-x is powerful enough, as you said yourself. The only thing I can't really do is fix the rad on the h220-x (that I know of) unless I want to lose warranty. Or can I fix the h220-x's rad?
> 
> Thanks by the way.
> Well I wanted one and could save up for one but that doesn't mean I'm going to go out and buy the most expensive one... I'm still on a budget.


you mistake what I post. I said the h220 went up to 0.5 gpm. The h220-x is a different kit with a different pump, different reservoir and radiator and I don't have that data (that's why I ask VSG to comment on it). Just make the conversion mate. 100 lph will be 0.44 GPM so the mps 100 is not for you either. The 200 will be 0.88 GPM as its top readings. Aren't all 3 models more or less the same price? Why limit your readings? Just mine 2 cents.

edit







due to VSG post: See? the h220-x is up 1 GPM so the mps 200 wouldn't be suitable either due to its upper limit.

edit 2- Just checked aquacomputer shop. All 3 mps models (MPS 100, 200 and 400) cost the same so why are you saying the 400 would cost more?


----------



## skupples

that was my thought, I went with the 400, but didn't realize I had to order the damned jumbo 3 pin separately.

I avg 300LPH, I was maxing out the unit when I Had the 3rd pump running, though I did read slightly over 400, my guess is that it just becomes inaccurate above it's peak.

and it looks like I forgot to plug it back in after the leak. I hope it didn't die









looks like it might be dead, as it's plugged in


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> that was my thought, I went with the 400, but didn't realize I had to order the damned jumbo 3 pin separately.
> 
> I avg 300LPH, I was maxing out the unit when I Had the 3rd pump running, though I did read slightly over 400, my guess is that it just becomes inaccurate above it's peak.
> 
> and it looks like I forgot to plug it back in after the leak. I hope it didn't die


the limit of the mps 400 is around 2 GPM (give or take). Mine would read up to 2.03 GPM. After that no resolution. I will one of these days change the board to make a MPS 400 on steroids as suggested by Jack on the community testing thread.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> the limit of the mps 400 is around 2 GPM (give or take). Mine would read up to 2.03 GPM. After that no resolution. I will one of these days change the board to make a MPS 400 on steroids as suggested by Jack on the community testing thread.


nice.

now I just need to troubleshoot why my 400 is no longer displaying a reading in Aquasuite. It's configured properly, and plugged in properly (flow header) but no output... I don't think I've checked it since the leak, but it didn't really get wet, as it's on an elevated dampener.







I can hear it clicking away when I bend down by it, so I know it's spinning.


----------



## Swuell

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> you mistake what I post. I said the h220 went up to 0.5 gpm. The h220-x is a different kit with a different pump, different reservoir and radiator and I don't have that data (that's why I ask VSG to comment on it). Just make the conversion mate. 100 lph will be 0.44 GPM so the mps 100 is not for you either. The 200 will be 0.88 GPM as its top readings. Aren't all 3 models more or less the same price? Why limit your readings? Just mine 2 cents.
> 
> edit
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> due to VSG post: See? the h220-x is up 1 GPM so the mps 200 wouldn't be suitable either due to its upper limit.
> 
> edit 2- Just checked aquacomputer shop. All 3 mps models (MPS 100, 200 and 400) cost the same so why are you saying the 400 would cost more?


Wait the do???? REALY?! Aquacomputer.us??? Last night they didn't... they cost differently!!!! >__>

And sorry about the mistake I thought you meant the h220-x :|. I don't know how lph the h220-x even runs lol... ah. oh >__< I just saw geggeg post. So I'm guessing adding a pump later would add to the flow/gpm?

EDIT: Ah you went to Aquacomputer.de I went to the Aquatuning.us well they've changed prices now and it's only a few--13 to be exact--cents apart.. So nevermind.


----------



## Swuell

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> that was my thought, I went with the 400, but didn't realize I had to order the damned jumbo 3 pin separately.
> 
> I avg 300LPH, I was maxing out the unit when I Had the 3rd pump running, though I did read slightly over 400, my guess is that it just becomes inaccurate above it's peak.
> 
> and it looks like I forgot to plug it back in after the leak. I hope it didn't die
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> looks like it might be dead, as it's plugged in


The jumbo 3pin is not included?!!! >__< whatt...


----------



## fast_fate

If going to bore out any MPS flow device - carefull you choose a reaming size carefully.
An MPS 400 is probably not worth modding for limited increase in usable range.
The MPS100 or MPS 200 is another story.
Just remember you will have to do a thorough calibration of the unit after the "bore out" mod (as you should with all MPS Flow anyways.)
The unit still needs to have different diameters each size if the center bore to get a differential reading.
I used a 7mm bit to bore out - I would not recommend going any larger than this, slightly smaller would be recommended.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Swuell*
> 
> The jumbo 3pin is not included?!!! >__< whatt...


that's correct!

sigh, pulling out my 400 is going to be a pain in the ass, i'm going to just call it quits for now if re-installing aquasuite, flashing the head unit & shoring up the plugs doesn't resolve the issue.


----------



## Swuell

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> that's correct!
> 
> sigh, pulling out my 400 is going to be a pain in the ass, i'm going to just call it quits for now if re-installing aquasuite, flashing the head unit & shoring up the plugs doesn't resolve the issue.


Thought it was... :|. How much is the 3pin then?

EDIT: This is what's listed

One flow rate sensor
One internal USB connection cable
One aquabus / rpm signal cable (3-Pin)

So what 3 pin is not included??


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Swuell*
> 
> Thought it was... :|. How much is the 3pin then?
> 
> EDIT: This is what's listed
> 
> One flow rate sensor
> One internal USB connection cable
> One aquabus / rpm signal cable (3-Pin)
> 
> So what 3 pin is not included??


you must be looking at a different device,

this is the one I ordered from Aquatuning, and it came without the cable



cable :


----------



## fast_fate

I think there has been some confusion introduced








The MPS sensors should come with everything required to connect and run.

It is the High Flow sensors which need the additional cable



Edit:


----------



## Swuell

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> you must be looking at a different device,
> 
> this is the one I ordered from Aquatuning, and it came without the cable
> 
> 
> 
> cable :


Yeah that's not the MPS.


----------



## Swuell

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fast_fate*
> 
> I think there has been some confusion introduced
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The MPS sensors should come with everything required to connect and run.
> 
> It is the High Flow sensors which need the additional cable
> 
> 
> 
> Edit:


by the way it doesn't come with a 4pin cable, only a 3pin lol... so that's quite inconvenient. Besides the 3pin and 4pin placement and putting it in the RPM/Aquatuning slot that's the only difference correct? Would I have to get the 4pin cable if I plan on using the rpm slot or is there a splitter cable for that or just get the 4pin?


----------



## fast_fate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Swuell*
> 
> by the way it doesn't come with a 4pin cable, only a 3pin lol... so that's quite inconvenient. Besides the 3pin and 4pin placement and putting it in the RPM/Aquatuning slot that's the only difference correct? Would I have to get the 4pin cable if I plan on using the rpm slot or is there a splitter cable for that or just get the 4pin?


For MPS Flow meters, the forth pin on the Aquabus connector is for the device's power from the Aquaero unit.
Any 3+1 four pin cable will do the same job as the AquaComputer one for connecting the device to the Aquaero.
This 3+1 is only needed if you plan to disconnect the USB cable after the initial set up, for which USB connection is required.

The 3 pin connector on the device (labelled - alarm) is intended for setting up shut down - no flow scenario.
There are no moving parts on the MPS flow meters so there is no rpm to forward, but there is a signal which is converted to rpm I think.
EDIT - and this converted signal from the alarm connector can be connected to mobo for shut down via bios - agian I think, never done it myself.


----------



## Swuell

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fast_fate*
> 
> For MPS Flow meters, the forth pin on the Aquabus connector is for the device's power from the Aquaero unit.
> Any 3+1 four pin cable will do the same job as the AquaComputer one for connecting the device to the Aquaero.
> This 3+1 is only needed if you plan to disconnect the USB cable after the initial set up, for which USB connection is required.
> 
> The 3 pin connector on the device (labelled - alarm) is intended for setting up shut down - no flow scenario.
> There are no moving parts on the MPS flow meters so there is no rpm to forward, but there is a signal which is converted to rpm I think.
> EDIT - and this converted signal from the alarm connector can be connected to mobo for shut down via bios - agian I think, never done it myself.


Oh I may need the aquabus cable then... or what 4pin cable--link?--since you said essentially any 4 pin cable would work?

And I don't have any other usb headers since I'm already using one lol...

And I thought the 3pin was connected to the rpm since it said rpm XD. So then where would I read rpm? Through the usb/aquabus I'm guessing? Though if I want to read it off the controller I'd have to get the cable correct?


----------



## fast_fate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Swuell*
> 
> Oh I may need the aquabus cable then... or what 4pin cable--link?--since you said essentially any 4 pin cable would work?
> 
> And I don't have any other usb headers since I'm already using one lol...
> 
> And I thought the 3pin was connected to the rpm since it said rpm XD. So then where would I read rpm? Through the usb/aquabus I'm guessing? Though if I want to read it off the controller I'd have to get the cable correct?


This is the Aquacomputer Aquabus 4-Pin Connection Cable



You will have to connect any MPS device (MPS flow sensors included) via USB for initial set up of the MPS device.
After setting up the device in Aquasuite, the USB cable can be removed and connected to the Aquaero via the high speed Aquabus port with a four pin pwm cable.

The flow reading, is generated by an algorithm within the Aquaero hardware or Aquasuite software.
NOT by an rpm signal, there is nothing turning in the MPS flow sensor, sorry not sure where you're getting the rpm thing form


----------



## Swuell

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fast_fate*
> 
> This is the Aquacomputer Aquabus 4-Pin Connection Cable
> 
> 
> 
> You will have to connect any MPS device (MPS flow sensors included) via USB for initial set up of the MPS device.
> After setting up the device in Aquasuite, the USB cable can be removed and connected to the Aquaero via the high speed Aquabus port with a four pin pwm cable.
> 
> The flow reading, is generated by an algorithm within the Aquaero hardware or Aquasuite software.
> NOT by an rpm signal, there is nothing turning in the MPS flow sensor, sorry not sure where you're getting the rpm thing form


Oh so the dubbed "aquacable" is not exactly needed if a pwm cable works...? How would I know if that pwm cable is highspeed lol? And know what the difference between the Aquacomputer d5 pump and the Aquacomputer XT Ultra is!?! I'm so confused between the $1 price haha.

The RPM line is from the descriptions lol... >__> It's pretty misleading that's why haha.

And so I'm guessing if i do want it to be read straight from the aquaero I'd have to connect it though?


----------



## mike123

hi everyone.

i finally got my case .... while waiting for watercooling stuff, im testing it all on air to check everything works ok. so i have connected the aquaero, i have connected 4 case fans, one each to the aquaero headers, but all the fans are sitting at 0 volts and 0 rpm

can anything help?

i have tried setting up a curve etc, but fans are not moving


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mike123*
> 
> hi everyone.
> 
> i finally got my case .... while waiting for watercooling stuff, im testing it all on air to check everything works ok. so i have connected the aquaero, i have connected 4 case fans, one each to the aquaero headers, but all the fans are sitting at 0 volts and 0 rpm
> 
> can anything help?
> 
> i have tried setting up a curve etc, but fans are not moving


have you connected the usb and the molex to power the Aquaero? Are you with aquasuite installed? Which fans do you have? Are they PWM or volt regulated?


----------



## mike123

molex









it looked like it was on cos it was getting usb power, i didnt think to .... noob error

thanks mate, saved me a headache


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mike123*
> 
> molex
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> it looked like it was on cos it was getting usb power, i didnt think to .... noob error
> 
> thanks mate, saved me a headache


Yep I though so it was missing the molex. Glad was only that and that it helped. Don't worry, I only known this because I did the same when I got mine









cheers


----------



## skupples

welp, pretty damn official. My High Flow is dead Jim









wait wait, I've had these parts for just under a year, wonder if I could warranty the high flow.


----------



## Blowie

got an 5 LT jammed between 2 hdd's


----------



## mike123

is it possible to turn down the red leds on the front panel buttons ?

might be a nice option ..


----------



## deeph

Has anyone tried Aquasuite 2015 v3 yet? How about the Aquabus Low port?

I know that if I update into Aquasuite 2015 V3, it will not be downgrade-able. But if I want to use ie: multiswitch, how do I use it as it also the aquabus low port will be not available or I have to stay at Aquasuite 2014?
I saw on the website that the multiswitch and tubemeter seem not available anymore, EOL?.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *deeph*
> 
> Has anyone tried Aquasuite 2015 v3 yet? How about the Aquabus Low port?
> 
> I know that if I update into Aquasuite 2015 V3, it will not be downgrade-able. But if I want to use ie: multiswitch, how do I use it as it also the aquabus low port will be not available or I have to stay at Aquasuite 2014?
> I saw on the website that the multiswitch and tubemeter seem not available anymore, EOL?.


wait what? You can't revert to AQS14 if you install the new 2015 V3?

this is why I get for not reading patch notes.

I did see that you need to flash firmware to properly use the new suite. I hoped it would bring my flow meter back to life, but no dice.


----------



## deeph

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> wait what? You can't revert to AQS14 if you install the new 2015 V3?
> 
> this is why I get for not reading patch notes.
> 
> I did see that you need to flash firmware to properly use the new suite. I hoped it would bring my flow meter back to life, but no dice.


Yup..If I'm not mistaken Flow Meter is on Aquabus High so it should be fine.


----------



## valvehead

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mike123*
> 
> is it possible to turn down the red leds on the front panel buttons ?
> 
> might be a nice option ..


Yes. Two ways:


In Aquasuite, go to Aquaero -> User Interface -> Key Settings:




Or on the Aquaero, go to Menu -> User Interface -> Keys:


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *deeph*
> 
> Yup..If I'm not mistaken Flow Meter is on Aquabus High so it should be fine.


wait, what really?

Isn't that only the MPS devices?

also, Aquacomputer says the standard "high flow" will do up to 1500L/h

kinda funny that the product description doesn't state which header it goes on, though i'm almost positive my flow sensor goes on the "flow" header.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> wait, what really?
> 
> Isn't that only the MPS devices?
> 
> also, Aquacomputer says the standard "high flow" will do up to 1500L/h
> 
> kinda funny that the product description doesn't state which header it goes on, though i'm almost positive my flow sensor goes on the "flow" header.


if you have the non usb version of the high flow meter it goes to the flow since it does not have an aquabus connection. The other one, the usb version does have an aquabus port:

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/16789/bus-316/Aquacomputer_G14_Flow_Meter_Sensor_Block_USB_Version-Aquaero_SeriesPoweradjustFan-O-Matic_ProAlphacool_Heatmaster53129.html?tl=g30c229s2257

and yes, they both go up to 1500l/h


----------



## deeph

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> wait, what really?
> 
> Isn't that only the MPS devices?
> 
> also, Aquacomputer says the standard "high flow" will do up to 1500L/h
> 
> kinda funny that the product description doesn't state which header it goes on, though i'm almost positive my flow sensor goes on the "flow" header.


I only read the Aquaero manual though. The Flow sensor is the one that used Aquabus High. Not sure about MPS, sorry








Actually I'm new to these Aquaero stuff..


----------



## skupples

had my hopes up that I Had gone done lost my damned mind, & had it jacked into the wrong port since the radiator swap rebuild.


----------



## XEKong

I just emailed my retailer to see if there is any warranty on the MPS 400. It's not even a year old yet, I'll keep my fingers crossed.


----------



## skupples

i'm too lazy to email aquatuning, as getting a replacement would mean draining the loop, taking out the old one, filling the loop, getting the new one a week + later, draining the loop, installing it, filling the loop, and that's just too much work for monitoring flow rates in a long finished build. I know what my avg is, ~300.


----------



## electro2u

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> i'm too lazy to email aquatuning, as getting a replacement would mean draining the loop, taking out the old one, filling the loop, getting the new one a week + later, draining the loop, installing it, filling the loop, and that's just too much work for monitoring flow rates in a long finished build. I know what my avg is, ~300.


Could just be the impeller is stuck. Shoggy told me how to fix mine when it arrived and didn't measure anything, something about whacking it with a hammer. I gave it to someone and they fixed it.


----------



## deeph

I have a problem with Aquasuite 'gauge'. I setup a page with fan speed info in it with gauge style. I saw the rpm reading fluctuate with curve controller otherwise my gauge steady at 100%. Is there some thing I have to adjust or the fans are not compatible with Aquaero?


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *deeph*
> 
> I have a problem with Aquasuite 'gauge'. I setup a page with fan speed info in it with gauge style. I saw the rpm reading fluctuate with curve controller otherwise my gauge steady at 100%. Is there some thing I have to adjust or the fans are not compatible with Aquaero?


If its fan speed then it isn't showing 100% ... its showing 100 RPM. Change the range of the guage display.

Also, when asking questions like these it really helps to provide more than vague detail, and very preferably pictures illustrating the problem.


----------



## deeph

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> If its fan speed then it isn't showing 100% ... its showing 100 RPM. Change the range of the guage display.
> 
> Also, when asking questions like these it really helps to provide more than vague detail, and very preferably pictures illustrating the problem.


Sorry if not much info, but here is the screenshot


My fan max speed at 1600 RPM, but you can see in the pic showing. When 1191 RPM the needle pointing at 100. I have change the range of the gauge but the same result.


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *deeph*
> 
> Sorry if not much info, but here is the screenshot
> 
> 
> My fan max speed at 1600 RPM, but you can see in the pic showing. When 1191 RPM the needle pointing at 100. I have change the range of the gauge but the same result.


You haven't changed the range of the guage or it would show higher than 100. As I said, it is showing 100 RPM because that is as high as the guage goes.

Change the end value of the guage to higher than the fans are actually running at.



To something like this


----------



## deeph

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> You haven't changed the range of the guage or it would show higher than 100. As I said, it is showing 100 RPM because that is as high as the guage goes.
> 
> Change the end value of the guage to higher than the fans are actually running at.


I have change the settings in that Speed window, on the Gauge tab. But maybe I setup the wrong place.
This is where I setup the range,


----------



## deeph

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> You haven't changed the range of the guage or it would show higher than 100. As I said, it is showing 100 RPM because that is as high as the guage goes.
> 
> Change the end value of the guage to higher than the fans are actually running at.
> 
> 
> 
> To something like this


Ahh..got it!, Thanks
I thought it was a percentage though.


----------



## Shoggy

Sorry, that I do not have any time to go through the last pages.

Just a short throw in: if some of you experience lock ups or massive delays while booting the system when the aquaero is connected, please *send me a PM* and answer the following questions in it:

• Which aquaero version do you use?
• Which exact mainboard model do you use incl. current BIOS version?
• Which Windows version do you use?
• Is the boot process only delayed or does the system start when you wait long enough?
• Does the problem occur while the mainboard is booting (BIOS) and/or while Windows is booting?
• Was the problem there right from the start or after a specific event like a BIOS update for example?
• Which USB connectors have been used when the problem is present or gone (USB 2/3, internal, external etc.)?
• If not already tested: does the behavior change in any way when you switch to other USB ports?

The problem seems to be popular with ASUS X99 boards and they say it has to do with changed USB specifications but so far we see no connection here and need further input from affected users.


----------



## Fuzzysham

Hey all, I have a quick question. I discovered the Aquaero a couple days ago and it looks to be exactly what I want. Is the Aquaero a suitable replacement for Corsair Link? I've dealt with Corsair Link for years now but I have had enough with all the bugs and limited functionality.

The primary features I'm looking for are:

- Temperature monitoring using probes and software sensors
- Detailed fan control such as fans ramping up based on GPU or water temp
- Detailed graphs and just overall detailed monitoring
- Better interface than Corsair Link (I know that is subjective)

Does the Aquaero 6 XT support all of that? I think it does but I could be missing something. I have put together a list of what I was planning to buy. Am I missing anything from the following shopping list?

- Aquacomputer Aquaero 6 XT USB Fan Controller / Touch Screen / Graphic LCD / Liquid System Controller w/ Remote (53146)
- Aquacomputer Pump Connection Cable for Poweradjust 2 and Aquaero Series (53053)
- Bitspower G 1/4" Temperature Sensor Stop Fitting - Matte Black (BP-MBWP-CT)
- Aquacomputer Aquaero 5 and 6 PRO Aluminum Faceplate - Black (53091)

There appear to be a lot of optional components and need to ensure I get what is needed. My system is in my profile if you need to know what I'm running.

I appreciate the help!


----------



## Costas

Hey Fuzzy... The Corsair link is not even close to being in the same league as the Aquero 6XT.

6XT will do all the things you have enqired about plus a whole lot more.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fuzzysham*
> 
> Hey all, I have a quick question. I discovered the Aquaero a couple days ago and it looks to be exactly what I want. Is the Aquaero a suitable replacement for Corsair Link? I've dealt with Corsair Link for years now but I have had enough with all the bugs and limited functionality.
> 
> The primary features I'm looking for are:
> 
> - Temperature monitoring using probes and software sensors
> - Detailed fan control such as fans ramping up based on GPU or water temp
> - Detailed graphs and just overall detailed monitoring
> - Better interface than Corsair Link (I know that is subjective)
> 
> Does the Aquaero 6 XT support all of that? I think it does but I could be missing something. I have put together a list of what I was planning to buy. Am I missing anything from the following shopping list?
> 
> - Aquacomputer Aquaero 6 XT USB Fan Controller / Touch Screen / Graphic LCD / Liquid System Controller w/ Remote (53146)
> - Aquacomputer Pump Connection Cable for Poweradjust 2 and Aquaero Series (53053)
> - Bitspower G 1/4" Temperature Sensor Stop Fitting - Matte Black (BP-MBWP-CT)
> - Aquacomputer Aquaero 5 and 6 PRO Aluminum Faceplate - Black (53091)
> 
> There appear to be a lot of optional components and need to ensure I get what is needed. My system is in my profile if you need to know what I'm running.
> 
> I appreciate the help!


Yep, aquaero 6 will do that a lot more. Corsair link is not on the same league as Costas mentioned to you. Notice however that the faceplate you are ordering is not the correct model for the Aquaero 6 xt. This is the correct model:

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/17498/bus-327/Aquacomputer_Aquaero_5_and_6_XT_Aluminum_Faceplate_-_Black_53126_for_newest_revision_53125.html?tl=g30c229s2257

The Aq6 comes with 4 temperature sensors. If you need more just order 4 more since you have 8 available ports on the Aquaero. Do you need the cable? What pump are you using? DDC?


----------



## XEKong

Are we ever going to get a phone app? Instead of buying the remote, we should be able to use our phones


----------



## Fuzzysham

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Costas*
> 
> Hey Fuzzy... The Corsair link is not even close to being in the same league as the Aquero 6XT.
> 
> 6XT will do all the things you have enqired about plus a whole lot more.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Yep, aquaero 6 will do that a lot more. Corsair link is not on the same league as Costas mentioned to you. Notice however that the faceplate you are ordering is not the correct model for the Aquaero 6 xt. This is the correct model:
> 
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/17498/bus-327/Aquacomputer_Aquaero_5_and_6_XT_Aluminum_Faceplate_-_Black_53126_for_newest_revision_53125.html?tl=g30c229s2257
> 
> The Aq6 comes with 4 temperature sensors. If you need more just order 4 more since you have 8 available ports on the Aquaero. Do you need the cable? What pump are you using? DDC?


Thanks for the help. I definitely can tell this is far more advanced than Corsair Link. I have no idea how I have missed this until now. It seems I looked in all the wrong places for alternatives for Corsair Link. It kind of sucks that I ordered like three RGB lighting strips for CL that forces me to still utilize it in some manner.

I actually did notice it was the wrong faceplate. The correct one is out of stock so I guess I will order that at a later date. I ended up adding the 5mm LED, the standby ATX power connector and the passive heat sink. I don't really understand the need for a heat sink on it but better to have it than not. I ordered a bunch or Bitspower connectors too. All said and done it was nearly $400 for the Aquaero and the Bitspower stuff. Ouch.


----------



## skupples

BUT AQ6 won't tell me my PSU power draw









or will it?


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fuzzysham*
> 
> Hey all, I have a quick question. I discovered the Aquaero a couple days ago and it looks to be exactly what I want. Is the Aquaero a suitable replacement for Corsair Link? I've dealt with Corsair Link for years now but I have had enough with all the bugs and limited functionality.
> 
> The primary features I'm looking for are:
> 
> - Temperature monitoring using probes and software sensors
> - Detailed fan control such as fans ramping up based on GPU or water temp
> - Detailed graphs and just overall detailed monitoring
> - Better interface than Corsair Link (I know that is subjective)
> 
> Does the Aquaero 6 XT support all of that? I think it does but I could be missing something. I have put together a list of what I was planning to buy. Am I missing anything from the following shopping list?
> 
> - Aquacomputer Aquaero 6 XT USB Fan Controller / Touch Screen / Graphic LCD / Liquid System Controller w/ Remote (53146)
> - Aquacomputer Pump Connection Cable for Poweradjust 2 and Aquaero Series (53053)
> - Bitspower G 1/4" Temperature Sensor Stop Fitting - Matte Black (BP-MBWP-CT)
> - Aquacomputer Aquaero 5 and 6 PRO Aluminum Faceplate - Black (53091)
> 
> There appear to be a lot of optional components and need to ensure I get what is needed. My system is in my profile if you need to know what I'm running.
> 
> I appreciate the help!


i would recommend you read this ~!
http://aquacomputer.de/handbuecher.html?file=tl_files/aquacomputer/downloads/manuals/aquaero_5_6_en_2014_04_14.pdf

from http://aquacomputer.de/handbuecher.html

although aquasuite has changed it is still more or less the same


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> BUT AQ6 won't tell me my PSU power draw
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> or will it?


If you're really sweet to it, and give it a little tongue kiss in the ear once in a while on special occasions, . . .

It'll tell you anything you want to hear . . . .









D.


----------



## skupples




----------



## Costas

The heatsink is not required. It is a bit of a carry over from the earlier model which utilised a different circuit design in the fan driver stages. The 6XT has a revamped design for the fan driver circuitry and it operates much more efficiently so a heatsink is not required for 99% of users.


----------



## Fuzzysham

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> i would recommend you read this ~!
> http://aquacomputer.de/handbuecher.html?file=tl_files/aquacomputer/downloads/manuals/aquaero_5_6_en_2014_04_14.pdf
> 
> from http://aquacomputer.de/handbuecher.html
> 
> although aquasuite has changed it is still more or less the same


Thanks for this, I am reading it now and is very informative.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Costas*
> 
> The heatsink is not required. It is a bit of a carry over from the earlier model which utilised a different circuit design in the fan driver stages. The 6XT has a revamped design for the fan driver circuitry and it operates much more efficiently so a heatsink is not required for 99% of users.


Whoops. Oh well, guess I will keep it since it isn't worth the trouble of returning it later.


----------



## Squeaks5635

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> BUT AQ6 won't tell me my PSU power draw
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> or will it?


Best you can get is with one temp sensor on the inlet and one on the outlet of your rads assuming they are all connected sequentially with nothing in-between. Then you can use the flow-meter with that delta T to get an idea of the total amount of heat (power in watts) removed from the system through the radiators. I am using this setup in my system and under full load it is around 200 watts low compared to corsair link on my AX1500i, but maybe I can just attribute that to losses in the system. Either way that is the only way to monitor it in the Aquaero.


----------



## Squeaks5635

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fuzzysham*
> 
> Whoops. Oh well, guess I will keep it since it isn't worth the trouble of returning it later.


I still think it is a good buy just to have nice labeling of all the connections and to cover the pcb. Good choice in my opinion even if it does nothing for you as far as cooling is concerned.


----------



## Fuzzysham

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Squeaks5635*
> 
> I still think it is a good buy just to have nice labeling of all the connections and to cover the pcb. Good choice in my opinion even if it does nothing for you as far as cooling is concerned.


That was precisely what I was thinking. Without it things aren't labeled, at least that I could see. I may not have understood the purpose of the heat sink itself but the labeling makes it better for sure.


----------



## Costas

Yes good point about the labelling.... The Red version also goes faster as well......


----------



## Jakusonfire

The pcb is already labled with a sticker.


----------



## Squeaks5635

first thing i did was pull that sticker off. Looked like crap.


----------



## deeph

Does anyone know if FrozenPC and PPC bring Farbwerk in the near future?


----------



## electro2u

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *deeph*
> 
> Does anyone know if FrozenPC and PPC bring Farbwerk in the near future?


PPCs will have the Farbwerk in stock in about 10 days.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> PPCs will have the Farbwerk in stock in about 10 days.












gotta git me sum o dat.


----------



## 47 Knucklehead

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> PPCs will have the Farbwerk in stock in about 10 days.


Figures.

I am still waiting for mine directly from Germany. Paid a pantload in shipping to get it.









Oh well, here is some more Aquaero pr0n for the people.

Got my black heat sink for my AQ6 XT. Pretty simple install. Makes the unit look much better (not to mention runs cooler). I also have the black face place on it.


----------



## ozzy1925

a newbie question :i paperclip my psu to test the aquaero 6xt i wonder is it possible to turn off aquaero 6 without shutting down the psu?


----------



## electro2u

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *47 Knucklehead*
> 
> Got my black heat sink for my AQ6 XT. Pretty simple install. Makes the unit look much better (not to mention runs cooler). I also have the black face place on it.


Looks fab. Does it bother you the silver screws on the faceplate? I ordered a bunch of the proper sized black screws from Fastenal as I could not locate them locally. Here's the link:
http://www.fastenal.com/web/products/flat-socket-cap-screws/_/Navigation?term=m3+.5+5mm&termca=&termpx=&sortby=webrank&sortdir=descending&searchmode=productSearch&filterByVendingMachine=&r=%20~|categoryl1:%22600000%20Fasteners%22|~%20~|categoryl2:%22600039%20Sockets%22|~%20~|categoryl3:%22600042%20Flat%20Socket%20Cap%20Screws%22|~


----------



## Posidon67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *deeph*
> Does anyone know if FrozenPC and PPC bring Farbwerk in the near future?


I sent a note to FrozenCPU last week asking that very question. Unfortunately I still haven't received an answer.


----------



## deeph

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> PPCs will have the Farbwerk in stock in about 10 days.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Posidon67*
> 
> I sent a note to FrozenCPU last week asking that very question. Unfortunately I still haven't received an answer.


Nice info








Noticed at Aquacomputer was also out of stock.


----------



## skupples

WTB pre-order for farb, my case is so dark, that I keep thinking it's off.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> WTB pre-order for farb, my case is so dark, that I keep thinking it's off.


I have a similar problem . . . I have mostly white cases but I'm still off.









D.


----------



## 47 Knucklehead

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> Looks fab. Does it bother you the silver screws on the faceplate? I ordered a bunch of the proper sized black screws from Fastenal as I could not locate them locally. If anyone wants 4 of them I can ship them out for a couple dollars. Not sure why I ordered 40 of them lol


Hehehe, I was just coming here to ask if someone found a source for black screws and what the specs of those screws are.

Do you have a link to the Fastenal part number that you ordered and work?

[Edit]

I just noticed that you said you had extra. Sending you a PM.

Looking good.









[Edit 2]

Anyone know why I keep getting the following error/pop up when I try to subscribe to this (or any other thread)?

Failed to create subscription


----------



## Kimir

When you write in a topic, you automatically subscribe to it, so it gives you an error when trying again manually, maybe?


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> I have a similar problem . . . I have mostly white cases but I'm still off.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> D.










my elcheepo Amazon branded strip bit the dust, one section at a time.


----------



## 47 Knucklehead

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kimir*
> 
> When you write in a topic, you automatically subscribe to it, so it gives you an error when trying again manually, maybe?


Not sure. The error is happening when I manually try to subscribe.

I HAD over 2200 subscriptions, so now I'm manually going through and manually removing all the old and outdated ones. I get a million subscription warnings a day, so it's pretty much a worthless alert the way I have it now.

Maybe when I stumble to where it is subscribed and remove it, it will correct itself. Odd thing is, even when someone posts on here, I don't get a subscription update, which leads me to believe that I'm not automatically subscribed ... which I want to be.

Oh well, back to cleaning house ... 957 more subscriptions to clear.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *47 Knucklehead*
> 
> Not sure. The error is happening when I manually try to subscribe.
> 
> I HAD over 2200 subscriptions, so now I'm manually going through and manually removing all the old and outdated ones. I get a million subscription warnings a day, so it's pretty much a worthless alert the way I have it now.
> 
> Maybe when I stumble to where it is subscribed and remove it, it will correct itself. Odd thing is, even when someone posts on here, I don't get a subscription update, which leads me to believe that I'm not automatically subscribed ... which I want to be.
> 
> Oh well, back to cleaning house ... 957 more subscriptions to clear.


I stopped getting email updates for my subscriptions long ago, w/o actually disabling them. Seems threads auto-default to "site only" now, whereas they used to default to "site and email"


----------



## 47 Knucklehead

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> I stopped getting email updates for my subscriptions long ago, w/o actually disabling them. Seems threads auto-default to "site only" now, whereas they used to default to "site and email"


That's what I'm doing ... "site only", and after manually going in and removing about 2200 subscribed threads by hand (I'm down to just 43 now), and this one isn't one of them, I can't manually add this thread to that list.

So basically I have to search for "aquaero" every time and miss stuff when people post here.









FINALLY! It was something in my user settings that was preventing me from adding new Subs. It's fixed now.


----------



## electro2u

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *47 Knucklehead*
> 
> Hehehe, I was just coming here to ask if someone found a source for black screws and what the specs of those screws are.
> 
> Do you have a link to the Fastenal part number that you ordered and work?
> I just noticed that you said you had extra. Sending you a PM.


Ugh. I have been looking for that package of screws for 2 hours. Reorganized everything and found some 1/2" heatshrink I looked for for 2 hours other day but no screws.

Here's the Fastenal SKU number and a link:
M3-0.50 x 5mm DIN 7991 Class 10.9 Black Oxide Flat Head Socket Cap Screw
Fastenal Part No. (SKU): 40920
http://www.fastenal.com/web/products/flat-socket-cap-screws/_/Navigation?term=m3+.5+5mm&termca=&termpx=&sortby=webrank&sortdir=descending&searchmode=productSearch&filterByVendingMachine=&r=%20~|categoryl1:%22600000%20Fasteners%22|~%20~|categoryl2:%22600039%20Sockets%22|~%20~|categoryl3:%22600042%20Flat%20Socket%20Cap%20Screws%22|~


----------



## 47 Knucklehead

Thanks for trying.

No local store within 150 miles had them in stock. I was going to only order 8 of them, for like $1.50, but when I saw the cheapest shipping was $8.50, I figured I'd order 20 of them at least. So maybe if I don't need them for other things (and M3's are a pretty common size), I can let others have them.


----------



## RoostrC0gburn

is there any literature on the Fabwerk yet? i can find nothing on the AC website - not even auf Deutsch


----------



## electro2u

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RoostrC0gburn*
> 
> is there any literature on the Fabwerk yet? i can find nothing on the AC website - not even auf Deutsch


http://forum.aquacomputer.de/weitere-foren/english-forum/105464-farbwerk-put-color-in-your-life-new-4x-rgb-led-controller/


----------



## RoostrC0gburn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> ThatsThat's what i was thinkingthinking
> http://forum.aquacomputer.de/weitere-foren/english-forum/105464-farbwerk-put-color-in-your-life-new-4x-rgb-led-controller/


I would like to know the rating of those LED pins. It sounds to me like each LED channel is basically 3 separately modulated pins - one per channel.


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RoostrC0gburn*
> 
> I would like to know the rating of those LED pins. It sounds to me like each LED channel is basically 3 separately modulated pins - one per channel.


Yes, that is how rgb works.

The fabwerk has 12 individual channels. 2.5 amp per individual channel up to a max of 8 for the whole board


----------



## 47 Knucklehead

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RoostrC0gburn*
> 
> I would like to know the rating of those LED pins. It sounds to me like each LED channel is basically 3 separately modulated pins - one per channel.


Per the link ...
Quote:


> The farbwerk is designed to control LEDs with a voltage between 0 and 24 V. When installed to a PC system, the power supply will be 12 V so the LEDs or strips must be designed to use this voltage. Outside the PC and with an appropriate power supply unit, it is also possible to use 24 V LEDs. *The farbwerk provides up to 2.5A per single channel/color while the total load can be as much as 8 A (100 W at 12 V).*


----------



## Domiro

Just to double check; On AQ5 LT's 4th channel I'll have 8 EK Vardar 1850 fans @ 1.44 watt each. (11.52 watt in total). 1.44 watt/12 volt = 0.12 ampere per fan for 0.96A in total. Which is all below the given 1.65A/19.8W.

Any oversight, beyond not knowing the startup current required?


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Domiro*
> 
> Just to double check; On AQ5 LT's 4th channel I'll have 8 EK Vardar 1850 fans @ 1.44 watt each. (11.52 watt in total). 1.44 watt/12 volt = 0.12 ampere per fan for 0.96A in total. Which is all below the given 1.65A/19.8W.
> 
> Any oversight, beyond not knowing the startup current required?


no, it looks good to me. Do you have the heatsink on it? I was used to use the aq 6 and when I start using the AQ5 I was surprised by how warm/hot it would get...


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Domiro*
> 
> Just to double check; On AQ5 LT's 4th channel I'll have 8 EK Vardar 1850 fans @ 1.44 watt each. (11.52 watt in total). 1.44 watt/12 volt = 0.12 ampere per fan for 0.96A in total. Which is all below the given 1.65A/19.8W.
> 
> Any oversight, beyond not knowing the startup current required?


Should be fine. It is really undervolting on the first three channels that causes most of the heat. The PWM channel is always 12V so doesn't have the same problem.
Of course you could use a PWM power splitter cable so that power is coming straight from the PSU and in theory at least run as many fans as you wanted on the PWM channel.

Startup current doesn't matter. It is already allowed for as it is in any high quality controller.


----------



## Domiro

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> Should be fine. It is really undervolting on the first three channels that causes most of the heat. The PWM channel is always 12V so doesn't have the same problem.
> Of course you could use a PWM power splitter cable so that power is coming straight from the PSU and in theory at least run as many fans as you wanted on the PWM channel.
> 
> Startup current doesn't matter. It is already allowed for as it is in any high quality controller.


There will be fans on the first two channels but I'm not concerned about the heat. Although I'm not opposed to including the waterblock if needed. Unless I could run 16 of said PWM fans on the one channel but i'm not keen on finding out that I'm wrong and having spent money on it


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Domiro*
> 
> There will be fans on the first two channels but I'm not concerned about the heat. Although I'm not opposed to including the waterblock if needed. Unless I could run 16 of said PWM fans on the one channel but i'm not keen on finding out that I'm wrong and having spent money on it


even the passive one makes a good difference:

http://shop.aquacomputer.de/product_info.php?language=en&products_id=2692

and with something like the PWM swiftech splitter you can daisy chan a lot of fans there since the power will not be provided by the aquaero but instead by the molex/sata power connector. This is what Jakusonfire was suggesting.

cheers


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Domiro*
> 
> There will be fans on the first two channels but I'm not concerned about the heat. Although I'm not opposed to including the waterblock if needed. Unless I could run 16 of said PWM fans on the one channel but i'm not keen on finding out that I'm wrong and having spent money on it


Too much heat and the fans will constantly speed up to full speed and back again as the controller tries to cool itself down. Although each channel is rated for 1.65A, which is OK at 12V but at lower voltages it is far less. For 16 fans you should at least have the airsink fitted. The water block isn't really needed until running quite a few high power fans.

less than 16 high draw fans like NB Eloop B12-4 will have the controller overheating.


----------



## Domiro

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> even the passive one makes a good difference:
> 
> http://shop.aquacomputer.de/product_info.php?language=en&products_id=2692
> 
> and with something like the PWM swiftech splitter you can daisy chan a lot of fans there since the power will not be provided by the aquaero but instead by the molex/sata power connector. This is what Jackson was suggesting.
> 
> cheers


Yeah, I've got one of them already and may use it for the build (And/or make my own wiring harness, I'll see). My concern with using more than 8 or so PWM fans on there is the PWM signal strength. I suspect, from what seems general consensus, that around 8 fans is the maximum and still fully control the fans. The alternatives are to either A) use the other channel(s) with 3 pin fans or B) use the MB's PWM connections.

The former solution I can make work in fashion (Performance, looks, sound, etc) the latter defeats the purpose of using the AQ5.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> Too much heat and the fans will constantly speed up to full speed and back again as the controller tries to cool itself down. Although each channel is rated for 1.65A, which is OK at 12V but at lower voltages it is far less. For 16 fans you should at least have the airsink fitted. The water block isn't really needed until running quite a few high power fans.
> 
> less than 16 high draw fans like NB Eloop B12-4 will have the controller overheating.


I wouldn't mind either solution when/if needed, heatsink or waterblock would do. But as described above, it's the PWM signal that worries me. I've been reading this thread , although I suspect its outside my scope of knowledge









But knowing that the 8 fans should work and the startup current accounted for is good.


----------



## MrPT

Hey guys, i know aquaero 5 is hot, much hotter than aq6. I've just made update to aquasuite 2015 and after I'm really worried about my panels temperatures. Now its look like this



And before update my temps was much lower



Friend of mine has even worst situation, because his panel is hitting 100 degrees and He is using waterblock , I have stock radiator from 5 Pro. Anyone else have a similiar situation after update or maybe there is somehow solution to lower this temps ?


----------



## skupples

have you IR probed it to verify these temps? Or even put your hand over it to feel it radiating that kind of heat?


----------



## MrPT

was trying to touch radiator, but is hot like hell


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrPT*
> 
> was trying to touch radiator, but is hot like hell


might be good info to PM shoggy with.


----------



## side37

Is there a way to upgrade to 2015.3 from 2015.2 without wiping the settings, or can I back them up and restore them somehow? Also if you have a slave AQ5LT do you ever need to bother upgrading the firmware on it again?


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *side37*
> 
> Is there a way to upgrade to 2015.3 from 2015.2 without wiping the settings, or can I back them up and restore them somehow? Also if you have a slave AQ5LT do you ever need to bother upgrading the firmware on it again?


Save settings and pages to somewhere other than the default locations. The defaults get overwritten with an aquasuite re-install.


----------



## side37

How do you control where it saves to? I did try to export the settings before my previous upgrade but it wouldn't let me import them after as it complained the version was different.

Edit: I found C:\ProgramData\aquasuite-data, it looks this is where it saves the settings and pages. Can I just back that up before installing the new Aquasuite and then revert it afterwards or will that do weird things?


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *side37*
> 
> How do you control where it saves to? I did try to export the settings before my previous upgrade but it wouldn't let me import them after as it complained the version was different.
> 
> Edit: I found C:\ProgramData\aquasuite-data, it looks this is where it saves the settings and pages. Can I just back that up before installing the new Aquasuite and then revert it afterwards or will that do weird things?


Use the export settings button. Not all updates are the same. Aquasuite 2015 changed a lot of stuff so settings weren't directly transferable but most times they are.


----------



## valvehead

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *side37*
> 
> Is there a way to upgrade to 2015.3 from 2015.2 without wiping the settings, or can I back them up and restore them somehow? Also if you have a slave AQ5LT do you ever need to bother upgrading the firmware on it again?


I went from 2015.2 to 2015.3 without losing anything. It's only the big jumps that require fresh installs (e.g 2014.x to 2015.x).

AFAIK there is no firmware change from 2015.2 to 2015.3.


----------



## gamerking

im planing on buying the aquaero 5 LT can it handle 6 EK Vardar 2200 fans they are (2.16w each ) 13watts in total. since 6 total is 1.08A . that is under the 1.65A limit that i got from google , will i have a problem if i use a swiftech pwm 8 way splitter molex one to connect them all up to 5 Lt or will the PWM signal be too weak ? if so what do i need just a plain splitter . do i need the heat sink/water block for it will it run too hot or can i run it stock fine? if i cant run them all on the same channel can i get away with splitting some on the 3pin headers?


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gamerking*
> 
> im planing on buying the aquaero 5 LT can it handle 6 EK Vardar 2200 fans they are (2.16w each ) 13watts in total. since 6 total is 1.08A . that is under the 1.65A limit that i got from google , will i have a problem if i use a swiftech pwm 8 way splitter molex one to connect them all up to 5 Lt or will the PWM signal be too weak ? if so what do i need just a plain splitter . do i need the heat sink/water block for it will it run too hot or can i run it stock fine? if i cant run them all on the same channel can i get away with splitting some on the 3pin headers?


only 6? easily. It can easily handle 6 of them per channel.

should spend the extra coin on getting a 6 though.


----------



## gamerking

what makes it better then the 5 since i know it can have more poweradjust controllers and it has a screen. i was just going to put it behind my Optical Drive the 5 LT and hide it


----------



## VSG

If you are using the Swiftech splitter then the fans will be powered by the PSU itself.


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gamerking*
> 
> what makes it better then the 5 since i know it can have more poweradjust controllers and it has a screen. i was just going to put it behind my Optical Drive the 5 LT and hide it


Unless you want to run many more fans or just have more than a single PWM header to split them up amongst different controllers there isn't a lot of benefit. I am still rocking a 5 because the 6, as great as it is, just doesn't offer anything extra I need right now. 3 PWM fans, and 8 voltage fans works great.

I will get a 6 eventually because I think PWM has finally become mainstream and is the future of fans.


----------



## Almost Heathen

Great references. Bookmarked. I'll probably get an Aquaero when I finally go H20 and ditch my god awful Aerocool fan controller .


----------



## gamerking

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> Unless you want to run many more fans or just have more than a single PWM header to split them up amongst different controllers there isn't a lot of benefit. I am still rocking a 5 because the 6, as great as it is, just doesn't offer anything extra I need right now. 3 PWM fans, and 8 voltage fans works great.
> 
> I will get a 6 eventually because I think PWM has finally become mainstream and is the future of fans.


i have 10 fans just on my rads + 3 other case ones my problem is i have to get new fans since having 5 types(sp120's ek's 1600rpm nzxt 1600rpm and some random 4pin 800rpm) i would love to just buy all the same type but i dont want to drop 200$ on 10 fans . ill probly just get the 5 lx then since 70$ compared to 220$ is a hell of a lot more . and all that's going on it are the new fans i get and some sp120 and ek's old fans and a few temp sensors and one inline and a one on my res. never knew getting a dam fan controller was so much work , funny thing nearly 2 weeks ago i emailed both frozencpu and perf pcs to ask some question on the aquaero's and havent heard back from either of them all of you are so helpful


----------



## josetortola

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *valvehead*
> 
> I went from 2015.2 to 2015.3 without losing anything. It's only the big jumps that require fresh installs (e.g 2014.x to 2015.x).
> 
> AFAIK there is no firmware change from 2015.2 to 2015.3.


I had the same experience. When upgrading from 2015.2 to 2015.3 it displayed an option to mantain previous configuration.

2015.3 has a firmware change, but it is only for farbwerk. It updated my farbwerk to firmware 1001, but I can't see what this new farbwerk firmware adds to it...

I'm still waiting for some features as switching on/off the farbwerk RGB channel as it goes below/above the selected input values, speed of fading effect controlled by temperature sensor... Farbwerk is a excellent LED controller, but it still has tons of potential to be upgraded.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *gamerking*
> 
> what makes it better then the 5 since i know it can have more poweradjust controllers and it has a screen. i was just going to put it behind my Optical Drive the 5 LT and hide it
> 
> 
> 
> Unless you want to run many more fans or just have more than a single PWM header to split them up amongst different controllers there isn't a lot of benefit. I am still rocking a 5 because the 6, as great as it is, just doesn't offer anything extra I need right now. 3 PWM fans, and 8 voltage fans works great.
> 
> I will get a 6 eventually because I think PWM has finally become mainstream and is the future of fans.
Click to expand...

this is simply not true, the power delivery has been substantially upgraded. ( less heat )


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> this is simply not true, the power delivery has been substantially upgraded. ( less heat )


Yes, everybody knows that, but what benefit is that to someone running only a few fans.

So what is untrue in the post.

Not everybody needs a $200 fan controller. A 5lt offers 90% of the core functionality of the full fat models for much less and will happily run quite a large system with several fans.


----------



## Mega Man

i seem to of missed the first half of your post >.> my wife calls it selective reading, what i saw was there is NO reason to upgrade, my apologies


----------



## gamerking

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> Yes, everybody knows that, but what benefit is that to someone running only a few fans.
> 
> So what is untrue in the post.
> 
> Not everybody needs a $200 fan controller. A 5lt offers 90% of the core functionality of the full fat models for much less and will happily run quite a large system with several fans.


for the aquaero 5 LT do i need to buy a heatsink for it to work http://www.performance-pcs.com/aquacomputer-passive-cooler-for-aquaero-5-new-version-20mm-high.html since i cant figure out if it has one or not pre-installed


----------



## sinnedone

Quick question for you guys. How exactly does the Aquacomputer Poweradjust 3 USB - Ultra compare to a aquaero 5 LT?

I need to control nine 0.30 amp 3 pin fans. I just want to set up a temperature profile for the fans from a temp sensor in a loop and possibly later add a flow meter. The pump will be off a molex and controlled via motherboard pwm cpu header.

Oh just to make sure, the poweradjust 3 also uses the aquasuite program on its own correct?


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gamerking*
> 
> for the aquaero 5 LT do i need to buy a heatsink for it to work http://www.performance-pcs.com/aquacomputer-passive-cooler-for-aquaero-5-new-version-20mm-high.html since i cant figure out if it has one or not pre-installed


it does not come with the heatsink. You will need if you start packing up fans there. But with only one fan per channel no.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sinnedone*
> 
> Quick question for you guys. How exactly does the Aquacomputer Poweradjust 3 USB - Ultra compare to a aquaero 5 LT?
> 
> I need to control nine 0.30 amp 3 pin fans. I just want to set up a temperature profile for the fans from a temp sensor in a loop and possibly later add a flow meter. The pump will be off a molex and controlled via motherboard pwm cpu header.
> 
> Oh just to make sure, the poweradjust 3 also uses the aquasuite program on its own correct?


You will be able to plug via usb and control via aquasuite as far as I understand this. version 3 seems to be improved in terms of heat I would guess just like the AQ6. It can power up to 30 w (36 w with passive heatsink) which seems to be on the limit of your fans (since they will be drawing 32 w). Only one temp sensor and if I got it right the second fan channel would have to be dedicated to your flow meter (but I might be mistaken). All in all I would go with the aq 5 lt in your case since is only 20 bucks more...


----------



## RoostrC0gburn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fast_fate*
> 
> Only way is to run a secondary PSU, for accessory devices such as Aqauero, pumps, fans, lighting ect.
> There is a detailed how to for the neatest, simplest way to implement a secondary psu in my *Salive8* using a relay.
> This is the end result of my experimentation, how it got to this stage is in the previous pages
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *EDIT:* starting here


Am I understanding this correctly? The Aquaero draws standby power from the 5V on the USB (from the mobo IF supported) - NOT the molex. If this is true, and you are bringing primary power to your Aquaero from a secondary PSU, how do you maintain standby power?


----------



## electro2u

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RoostrC0gburn*
> 
> Am I understanding this correctly? The Aquaero draws standby power from the 5V on the USB (from the mobo IF supported) - NOT the molex. If this is true, and you are bringing primary power to your Aquaero from a secondary PSU, how do you maintain standby power?


Doesn't matter where the primary power comes from. If the USB is connected to the motherboard it will have standby power when the system is off.


----------



## GiraffePencils

Hey,

Just thought I'd ask before I break something
Is there any problem I might encounter when 'daisy-chaining' PWM fans together to be controlled by an A5?

I planned to just solder the wires together. Is there anything more I might need to do?


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GiraffePencils*
> 
> Hey,
> 
> Just thought I'd ask before I break something
> Is there any problem I might encounter when 'daisy-chaining' PWM fans together to be controlled by an A5?
> 
> I planned to just solder the wires together. Is there anything more I might need to do?


You're sort of on the right track . . . . .

But you'll want to connect the all the reds, or +12V wires, together and all the blacks, negative wires, together, and power them from the PSU, and then connect all the PWM wires together . . and connect that to the 4th pin on the PWM capable channel.

The tach is the exception . . . . you only connect the tach wire from one fan to the 3rd or tach pin.

If you were to connect all the tach wires together, the Aquaero would see multiple signals and the display would be very erratic and way high.

Darlene


----------



## natsu2014

Need help. Connected AQ5LT to PC and it is not being detected. USB is connected as shown in here http://www.overclock.net/t/1385615/aquaero-5-pro-usb-cables-correct-polarity, fans are spinning but no device in aquasuite. Any ideas what to do?


----------



## 47 Knucklehead

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> Ugh. I have been looking for that package of screws for 2 hours. Reorganized everything and found some 1/2" heatshrink I looked for for 2 hours other day but no screws.
> 
> Here's the Fastenal SKU number and a link:
> M3-0.50 x 5mm DIN 7991 Class 10.9 Black Oxide Flat Head Socket Cap Screw
> Fastenal Part No. (SKU): 40920
> http://www.fastenal.com/web/products/flat-socket-cap-screws/_/Navigation?term=m3+.5+5mm&termca=&termpx=&sortby=webrank&sortdir=descending&searchmode=productSearch&filterByVendingMachine=&r=%20~|categoryl1:%22600000%20Fasteners%22|~%20~|categoryl2:%22600039%20Sockets%22|~%20~|categoryl3:%22600042%20Flat%20Socket%20Cap%20Screws%22|~


I got my screws in from Fastenal yesterday. They look great (as usual) and work. No more ugly silver screws on my nice black Aquaero faceplate.

My only comment is, if I was ordering them again, I wouldn't go with the M3-0.50 x 5mm screws, I would go with M3-0.50x6mm or even 8mm. The 5mm length ones are just on the hairy edge of being short. I only got about 3/4ths of a turn on them before they max'd out. It's not too big a deal, I used some Loctite to make sure they don't come loose easily and fall out. So something like the 8mm would be better as you could get some more threads on them.

Just a note for future Aquaero owners looking to clean up the look of their black face plate Aquaero.

http://www.fastenal.com/web/products/details/40922


----------



## electro2u

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *47 Knucklehead*
> 
> I got my screws in from Fastenal yesterday. They look great (as usual) and work. No more ugly silver screws on my nice black Aquaero faceplate.
> 
> My only comment is, if I was ordering them again, I wouldn't go with the M3-0.50 x 5mm screws, I would go with M3-0.50x6mm or even 8mm. The 5mm length ones are just on the hairy edge of being short. I only got about 3/4ths of a turn on them before they max'd out. It's not too big a deal, I used some Loctite to make sure they don't come loose easily and fall out. So something like the 8mm would be better as you could get some more threads on them.
> 
> Just a note for future Aquaero owners looking to clean up the look of their black face plate Aquaero.
> 
> http://www.fastenal.com/web/products/details/40922


+1'd. It's true... I did actually find the screws squirreled away a few days ago and they looked pretty tiny which is why I didn't notice them several times while looking. Now that you mentioned it I do remember thinking they wouldn't work when I first got them in, but they did and I forgot all about it. The silver screws are certainly not 5mm so this is excellent advice, as 5mm screws are not going to be useful for much of anything besides this application.


----------



## GiraffePencils

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> You're sort of on the right track . . . . .
> 
> But you'll want to connect the all the reds, or +12V wires, together and all the blacks, negative wires, together, and power them from the PSU, and then connect all the PWM wires together . . and connect that to the 4th pin on the PWM capable channel.
> 
> The tach is the exception . . . . you only connect the tach wire from one fan to the 3rd or tach pin.
> 
> If you were to connect all the tach wires together, the Aquaero would see multiple signals and the display would be very erratic and way high.
> 
> Darlene


Thanks for your response.

So the tach wire is not needed, only from one of the Fans.
everything else gets connected together.
2 wires to a molex connector and PSU. (Red and Black)
2 Wires to a 4Pin header and Aquaero. (Tach from one fan and PWM)


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *47 Knucklehead*
> 
> I got my screws in from Fastenal yesterday. They look great (as usual) and work. No more ugly silver screws on my nice black Aquaero faceplate.
> 
> My only comment is, if I was ordering them again, I wouldn't go with the M3-0.50 x 5mm screws, I would go with M3-0.50x6mm or even 8mm. The 5mm length ones are just on the hairy edge of being short. I only got about 3/4ths of a turn on them before they max'd out. It's not too big a deal, I used some Loctite to make sure they don't come loose easily and fall out. So something like the 8mm would be better as you could get some more threads on them.
> 
> Just a note for future Aquaero owners looking to clean up the look of their black face plate Aquaero.
> 
> http://www.fastenal.com/web/products/details/40922


Those are good for the XT. For the Pro, button heads work well and 5mm is plenty because the XT has a thicker face with the extra touch screen layer.

Changed mine out for black ones as soon as I got it.


----------



## Daggi

HI
I'm having trouble with my MPS 400 flow meter again. It was working fine for a few months, but around the middle of December it started failing . Then it was fine for a little period and now it's not working again. Anyone else having trouble with this sensor? I'm using an aquaero 6 pro and aquabus cable on the sensor


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *natsu2014*
> 
> Need help. Connected AQ5LT to PC and it is not being detected. USB is connected as shown in here http://www.overclock.net/t/1385615/aquaero-5-pro-usb-cables-correct-polarity, fans are spinning but no device in aquasuite. Any ideas what to do?


Check again USB connection to both Aquaero and Motherboard. Check Molex is connected (which should be since fans are spinning). If USB conection to motherboard is properly aligned then change the usb header on the MB.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Daggi*
> 
> HI
> I'm having trouble with my MPS 400 flow meter again. It was working fine for a few months, but around the middle of December it started failing . Then it was fine for a little period and now it's not working again. Anyone else having trouble with this sensor? I'm using an aquaero 6 pro and aquabus cable on the sensor


No problem at all with my 3 units. The only thing I can think of is either cables not inserted all the way down or a damage cable. Do you have a replacement cables?


----------



## fast_fate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RoostrC0gburn*
> 
> Am I understanding this correctly? The Aquaero draws standby power from the 5V on the USB (from the mobo IF supported) - NOT the molex. If this is true, and you are bringing primary power to your Aquaero from a secondary PSU, how do you maintain standby power?




Well - it's a complicated wiring loom this one, and I went overboard I suppose but fun of the challenge right.

The primary power (molex) is delivered to the Aquaero from the secondary PSU which is in the picture above (primary PSU is in the pedestal)
There is a USB hub for all Aquaero devices which is powered from primary PSU - so 5V doesn't go through to mobo from the Aquaero when primary PSU (system) is not running.
The USB is for updates and whatever - all devices have their own power connection also.

The secondary PSU is controlled by the relay pictured pretty much center of the pic.
The relay coil gets it 12V power fom the primary psu.
The secondary powers fans, pumps, Aquaero, Lights ect

It is set up with a switch on/off so when primary psu is turned OFF, the secondary will........

stay on - keeping all connected devices running
turn off - shutting down all connected devices.
If set to stay on - then I can turn turn the secondary PSU off with a switch.
This switch allows for testing and commissioning, leaving pump on while away, lights to stay on ect (as each of the devices have their own switch/s also.
Somewhat useful - but was set up for testing cooling system ability really, so not usuful once operational.

The magic part is that with the relay, even if the secondary psu switch is left off, it will still start up when the system (primary PSU) is started.

The other magic part is that the Aquaero Standyby Relay is hardwired into the primary PSU loom.
So, as long as the seconday psu switch is in off position - turns off when primary psu turns off when system shuts down....
then I can use the Aquaero emergancy shut down system to shut system downdown with both psu's - in case of no flow situation or any other Aquaero alarm set up that would trigger a shut down









not sure if any of that makes sense, but hope so.
The relay and secondary PSU I think is the short answer


----------



## Daggi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Check again USB connection to both Aquaero and Motherboard. Check Molex is connected (which should be since fans are spinning). If USB conection to motherboard is properly aligned then change the usb header on the MB.
> No problem at all with my 3 units. The only thing I can think of is either cables not inserted all the way down or a damage cable. Do you have a replacement cables?


Have tried other cables but it's still the same. I have also tried to clean the sensor, but no luck.


----------



## RoostrC0gburn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> Doesn't matter where the primary power comes from. If the USB is connected to the motherboard it will have standby power when the system is off.


My concern is that the stanby voltage may not reference exactly the same ground, depending on the selection of the two power supplies. Also, I believe this design would work counter to @fast_fate's design.
My thought is that the +5V pin on the USB can be brought directly from the
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fast_fate*
> 
> 
> 
> Well - it's a complicated wiring loom this one, and I went overboard I suppose but fun of the challenge right.
> 
> The primary power (molex) is delivered to the Aquaero from the secondary PSU which is in the picture above (primary PSU is in the pedestal)
> There is a USB hub for all Aquaero devices which is powered from primary PSU - so 5V doesn't go through to mobo from the Aquaero when primary PSU (system) is not running.
> The USB is for updates and whatever - all devices have their own power connection also.
> 
> The secondary PSU is controlled by the relay pictured pretty much center of the pic.
> The relay coil gets it 12V power fom the primary psu.
> The secondary powers fans, pumps, Aquaero, Lights ect
> 
> It is set up with a switch on/off so when primary psu is turned OFF, the secondary will........
> 
> stay on - keeping all connected devices running
> turn off - shutting down all connected devices.
> If set to stay on - then I can turn turn the secondary PSU off with a switch.
> This switch allows for testing and commissioning, leaving pump on while away, lights to stay on ect (as each of the devices have their own switch/s also.
> Somewhat useful - but was set up for testing cooling system ability really, so not usuful once operational.
> 
> The magic part is that with the relay, even if the secondary psu switch is left off, it will still start up when the system (primary PSU) is started.
> 
> The other magic part is that the Aquaero Standyby Relay is hardwired into the primary PSU loom.
> So, as long as the seconday psu switch is in off position - turns off when primary psu turns off when system shuts down....
> then I can use the Aquaero emergancy shut down system to shut system downdown with both psu's - in case of no flow situation or any other Aquaero alarm set up that would trigger a shut down
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> not sure if any of that makes sense, but hope so.
> The relay and secondary PSU I think is the short answer


i did not consider using the Aquaero relay to shut down both PSUs. that does add another dimension to this. Since this is a bit off topic for this thread, I will take this convo to your build log.
thanks


----------



## seross69

A Aquaero Blowout!!! Aquaero LT's, Poweradjust 2 USB's and a Multiswitch

http://www.overclock.net/forum/newestpost/1536384


----------



## XEKong

How much uptime do you have on your information page for your Aquaero? Right now I am at 328d 02h 04m.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

I didn't realize you ran the Show. @IT Diva I have some Aquaero flow meters. Does that Count? Still contemplating getting the 5 since I saved a couple bucks on the 6 Core processor.

The Cautious One


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## skupples

Laa
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *XEKong*
> 
> How much uptime do you have on your information page for your Aquaero? Right now I am at 328d 02h 04m.


last time I looked was 364, which was a week or two ago. I pre ordered from aqua tuning.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> I didn't realize you ran the Show. @IT Diva I have some Aquaero flow meters. Does that Count? Still contemplating getting the 5 since I saved a couple bucks on the 6 Core processor.
> 
> The Cautious One
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


I run the show


----------



## Jakusonfire

742 days here.


----------



## Jpmboy

873 days here... if an Aquaduct 720XT counts...











edit: yo skup!


----------



## Freaxy

As you can see I just finished my first water cooling build








I will take some pictures of it tomorrow.

Oh and wow I love the Aquaero. The things you can control are amazing!


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> 742 days here.


must be a 5.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jpmboy*
> 
> 873 days here... if an Aquaduct 720XT counts...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> edit: yo skup!


----------



## Jakusonfire

This is a bit disappointing. New Aquaero 6 put into a system, just swapped a 5 out for the 6, same cables and fans and sensors and everything. Getting Fan 3 & 4 Overcurrent warnings every time it starts even with no fans connected, and those channels don't work with fans.

That isn't meant to be possible. Left it for the short period of time without power as it says in the manual but nothing seems to fix it. Can't see any obvious damage but I guess it is going back.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> This is a bit disappointing. New Aquaero 6 put into a system, just swapped a 5 out for the 6, same cables and fans and sensors and everything. Getting Fan 3 & 4 Overcurrent warnings every time it starts even with no fans connected, and those channels don't work with fans.
> 
> That isn't meant to be possible. Left it for the short period of time without power as it says in the manual but nothing seems to fix it. Can't see any obvious damage but I guess it is going back.












this might be the first time I've heard of such issues on this forum, though i did tune out for a few months.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> This is a bit disappointing. New Aquaero 6 put into a system, just swapped a 5 out for the 6, same cables and fans and sensors and everything. Getting Fan 3 & 4 Overcurrent warnings every time it starts even with no fans connected, and those channels don't work with fans.
> 
> That isn't meant to be possible. Left it for the short period of time without power as it says in the manual but nothing seems to fix it. Can't see any obvious damage but I guess it is going back.


Did you put the heatsink on it, if so take it out of the case and try it without the heatsink, if it works, put the heatsink on and test again . . .

I put heatsinks on the 2 in Diva's Dementia, and noticed that they still mash the little brown MOV on the end of the PCB if you don't adjust for it.

You might have shorted something

Darlene

Look at the very left edge, and you can see I did a little mod to the black heatsink for that little brown component, so it doesn't get mashed down.

The underside of the heatsink has a recess for it, but it isn't always deep enough.


----------



## Jakusonfire

Nah, no heat sink or mods of any kind, just straight out of the box, tested on the bench first to see everything was fine and update the firmware, then into the system and maybe 24hrs later its dead.

I can't see any logical reason for it. The 5 is back in now and it is working just as it should. Not a major deal really, was just keen to put the new Vardar fans in but I'll have to wait for it to come back.

On a sidenote , I at least got some testing done and eloop b12 PS in push with Vardar F2 in pull move good air. Can't say at these speeds that they are significantly quieter than the SP120 quiets but they are nice. Just wish their pwm response was closer to the eloops.


----------



## Ironsmack

Just wondering... Would i be able to plug in an LT + PA2 on the same USB header? Or do they need their own USB header?


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ironsmack*
> 
> Just wondering... Would i be able to plug in an LT + PA2 on the same USB header? Or do they need their own USB header?


each one will take only half the USB port (internal). So you can plug both on the same reader.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> Laa
> last time I looked was 364, which was a week or two ago. I pre ordered from aqua tuning.
> I run the show


Well Ill Be. Nice info you got going on in here Skup.

The Cautious One.

PS: You gona put a FLower hat on your Guy for Spring? Or you gona keep the Santa Hat?


----------



## 47 Knucklehead

For those interested in what the Aquaero looks like with the optional black faceplate AND the black Fastnal hex screws ....


----------



## natsu2014

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Check again USB connection to both Aquaero and Motherboard. Check Molex is connected (which should be since fans are spinning). If USB conection to motherboard is properly aligned then change the usb header on the MB.


Tried panel on another PC. After plugging usb cable the red light is schowany up but aquasuite still is not detecting the aquaero.


----------



## Freaxy

I finished my first water cooling build and I'm quite happy with the result.








The Phanteks Enthoo Primo is an amazing case for this. Fitted the Alphacool monsta 480 push/pull on the bottom and the UT60 push/pull on the top.
Only thing that I disliked was the reservoir bracket. The cutout for the cards in it was too short in height for the 2 cards/3 slots configuration, so I drilled two holes in the motherboard tray for the EK X3 250 reservoir. However 1 GTX 980 G1 with waterblock would fit with the bracket, or even if it's 2 cards in the first 2 PCI-e slots.

The aquaero is awesome too, I got the pumps pwm signal, flowmeter, temp sensor, top rad fans on one channel, bottom rad fans on another and the case fans on the last. Controlling fan speeds on water temp. Pump set on 50%of it's pwm range for a nice quiet computer. Alarms on the flowmeter.
Then the Farbwerk and LED strip to react on water temp.

The water blocks are EK Supremacy EVO and 2 x EK GTX980 WF3 + backplates.

Here's some pics (sorry for the quality, I have no camera other then my Nexus 5's)






The mess-o-cables


Had great fun building it, but damn sore hands









Oh and the black faceplate for my aquaero is still in backorder.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *natsu2014*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Check again USB connection to both Aquaero and Motherboard. Check Molex is connected (which should be since fans are spinning). If USB conection to motherboard is properly aligned then change the usb header on the MB.
> 
> 
> 
> Tried panel on another PC. After plugging usb cable the red light is schowany up but aquasuite still is not detecting the aquaero.
Click to expand...

You did connect the Molex power connector . . . right . . .

Had to ask, it's been the problem before . .

Darlene


----------



## natsu2014

Yeah I did. Molex and usb, the fans are spinning but no new devices under Windows, aquasuite does not see th panel either. Seems like rma time unless there is something else I could try


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *natsu2014*
> 
> Yeah I did. Molex and usb, the fans are spinning but no new devices under Windows, aquasuite does not see th panel either. Seems like rma time unless there is something else I could try


Any pics of it installed, we've seen the USB cable mis-plugged a few times and Asuite won't see the device.


----------



## natsu2014

It's already in the box but was plugged as shoggy said in this thread http://www.overclock.net/t/1385615/aquaero-5-pro-usb-cables-correct-polarity


----------



## Jakewat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *natsu2014*
> 
> It's already in the box but was plugged as shoggy said in this thread http://www.overclock.net/t/1385615/aquaero-5-pro-usb-cables-correct-polarity


Have you tried detecting it without any fans plugged into the aquaero? When I set mine up I made sure there was nothing plugged into it apart from the molex and USB, was told this had caused problems before.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Well Ill Be. Nice info you got going on in here Skup.
> 
> The Cautious One.
> 
> PS: You gona put a FLower hat on your Guy for Spring? Or you gona keep the Santa Hat?












IT Diva runs the show, or at the very least, is the thread OP.

that's not a bad idea!


----------



## natsu2014

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakewat*
> 
> Have you tried detecting it without any fans plugged into the aquaero? When I set mine up I made sure there was nothing plugged into it apart from the molex and USB, was told this had caused problems before.


I did when plugged the aquaero to second PC


----------



## XEKong

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *47 Knucklehead*
> 
> I got my screws in from Fastenal yesterday. They look great (as usual) and work. No more ugly silver screws on my nice black Aquaero faceplate.
> 
> My only comment is, if I was ordering them again, I wouldn't go with the M3-0.50 x 5mm screws, I would go with M3-0.50x6mm or even 8mm. The 5mm length ones are just on the hairy edge of being short. I only got about 3/4ths of a turn on them before they max'd out. It's not too big a deal, I used some Loctite to make sure they don't come loose easily and fall out. So something like the 8mm would be better as you could get some more threads on them.
> 
> Just a note for future Aquaero owners looking to clean up the look of their black face plate Aquaero.
> 
> http://www.fastenal.com/web/products/details/40922


Does anyone know if anyone makes these in nylon, or another non conductive material, especially in black?


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *XEKong*
> 
> Does anyone know if anyone makes these in nylon, or another non conductive material, especially in black?


probably, would just require exponentially time consuming digging on the familiar suspect's websites.

I've found myself spending HOURS AND HOURS browsing the likes of mcrmastercarr for that one perfect screw... I mean, I don't even have HEX head screws on my radiators!!! I purchased bulk philips from the local hardware store @ $.08 a piece... lifetime supply! Just dust them black & boom, good to go.

and god knows the "branded" companies want obscene amounts per screw, where you're spending damn near $100 to screw up all your radiators, and that's just unacceptable, and those which shall not be named should be ashamed of themselves for selling colored anodized screws for such prices.


----------



## Fuzzysham

So I'm liking my Aquaero a lot more than Corsair Link except for a couple things. The main problem is dust under the front acrylic/plastic where the LCD is. Is this normal? Is there anything I can do about it?

See picture below - and yes, I did remove the film that was on it when I got it. Before I took the picture I wiped it free of any dust that may have accumulated on top of the cover.



Oh, one other question; can people share their Aquasuite configurations? I know you can export your dashboard and there is a demo one that comes with the software. It only seems logical that people can share theirs and tweak to fit your own system. I have not seen any dashboards/configurations shared anywhere yet.


----------



## skupples

I would guess that's because everyone's systems are different. Some run PWM fans, some run RPM adjusted fans, some run voltage adjusted fans, same goes for pumps, lighting, & sensors.


----------



## androidd505

Here is my rig. Love my Aquaero.


----------



## Squeaks5635

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fuzzysham*
> 
> Oh, one other question; can people share their Aquasuite configurations? I know you can export your dashboard and there is a demo one that comes with the software. It only seems logical that people can share theirs and tweak to fit your own system. I have not seen any dashboards/configurations shared anywhere yet.


Here is my configuration, if this is what you are talking about. I do not really use it anymore, that is why it only has the last 5 minutes worth of data, had to wait for it to populate when I opened it up.


----------



## skupples

I think he wanted an export.


----------



## Squeaks5635

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> I think he wanted an export.


hopefully this works

Overview.zip 4k .zip file


----------



## Fuzzysham

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> I would guess that's because everyone's systems are different. Some run PWM fans, some run RPM adjusted fans, some run voltage adjusted fans, same goes for pumps, lighting, & sensors.


I definitely understand that but I figure people could just edit the settings to suit their system, just like the demo configuration.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Squeaks5635*
> 
> hopefully this works
> 
> Overview.zip 4k .zip file


Thanks, an export was what I was looking for. I will give it a try in a bit.

Below is my config, it is basic and jumbled and for some reason only part of it works in the desktop mode. All I did was make a copy of the demo dashboard and then copy/paste the graphs and backgrounds then assign the right sensors. I am not creative when it comes to such things and I know other people do it better.


----------



## Costas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fuzzysham*
> 
> So I'm liking my Aquaero a lot more than Corsair Link except for a couple things. The main problem is dust under the front acrylic/plastic where the LCD is. Is this normal? Is there anything I can do about it?


When I first purchased my 6XT I noted the large gap between the actual LCD and the front plate which to me meant that dust could easily get in which is what you have noticed.

What I did to solve the problem was to remove the front plate and then I ran some soft adhesive foam strip (similar to door and window sealing foam strip) around the perimeter of the LCD. When the front plate is placed back on, it compresses the foam slightly which forms a perfect dust seal. Not sure why they didnt think of that in the first place....!

Mines been in my system for 6 months now with no signs of dust entry between the LCD and front plate.

BTW - What case are you using...? The Aquaero looks like its sitting slightly back from the very front of the case...ie its not sitting flush with the front panels.


----------



## 47 Knucklehead

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *XEKong*
> 
> Does anyone know if anyone makes these in nylon, or another non conductive material, especially in black?


I've fount black nylon in M3-8mm but not beveled ... so it wouldn't be recessed in the hole.


----------



## EAnushan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Costas*
> 
> BTW - What case are you using...? The Aquaero looks like its sitting slightly back from the very front of the case...ie its not sitting flush with the front panels.


Brushed aluminum makes me think one of the Corsair obsidian series. Maybe an 800d or a 900d?


----------



## Costas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EAnushan*
> 
> Brushed aluminum makes me think one of the Corsair obsidian series. Maybe an 800d or a 900d?


That's what I was thinking as well.

I have a 900D myself and I was not impressed on how the Aquaero sits in the drive bays [sunk in slightly due to the 900D's design] so I was going to suggest a small modification so that the unit sits perfectly flush with the front brushed aluminum panels.

Below is a quick pic of mine....


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## Squeaks5635

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Costas*
> 
> Below is a quick pic of mine....
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Is your ambient air temp really 61 degrees F, How do you keep the delta T for water only at 1.8, what kind of setup do you have (rad space, and fan speeds). That seems really good


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Squeaks5635*
> 
> Is your ambient air temp really 61 degrees F, How do you keep the delta T for water only at 1.8, what kind of setup do you have (rad space, and fan speeds). That seems really good


with one 560 mm rad I keep my cpu/ram loop delta below 2 C even under stress (with ambient temps ranging from 18 to almost 28 C). With 480+240 mm xspc rx v3 I keep the dual titan loop delta between 4-6 C. Just to give you an idea.


----------



## Squeaks5635

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> with one 560 mm rad I keep my cpu/ram loop delta below 2 C even under stress (with ambient temps ranging from 18 to almost 28 C). With 480+240 mm xspc rx v3 I keep the dual titan loop delta between 4-6 C. Just to give you an idea.


What fan speeds are you running to keep these temps.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Squeaks5635*
> 
> What fan speeds are you running to keep these temps.


less than 600 rpm to keep the system silent. Both loops are dual d5 pump so I keep both pumps too at 25% to have around 0.44 GPM on both loops.


----------



## Squeaks5635

I have roughly the same flow, and 1080 rad space, currently with comp not under load and an ambient of 23.7 C, fans at 100% (1300 rpm), the lowest mine gets is 2.2 C delta. could be how I measure my liquid temp.

I have a sensor at the inlet and another at the outlet of the three radiators that are connected in series. I am taking the average between the two temps as my liquid temp. Is this normally how it is done? Where are you guys taking your liquid temp readings.

Right now with everything at max and a liquid/air delta of 2.2 my inlet and outlet rad temps differ by 1 deg C I suspect this would be much more if the computer was under load.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Squeaks5635*
> 
> I have roughly the same flow, and 1080 rad space, currently with comp not under load and an ambient of 23.7 C, fans at 100% (1300 rpm), the lowest mine gets is 2.2 C delta. could be how I measure my liquid temp.
> 
> I have a sensor at the inlet and another at the outlet of the three radiators that are connected in series. I am taking the average between the two temps as my liquid temp. Is this normally how it is done? Where are you guys taking your liquid temp readings.
> 
> Right now with everything at max and a liquid/air delta of 2.2 my inlet and outlet rad temps differ by 1 deg C I suspect this would be much more if the computer was under load.


mine are on the inlet of the rads too. I have just one sensor (pre-calibrated) on each loop to get the water. As of the intake there is a lot of variation of amb temp depending on where you place it. I have 4 intakes temp sensor and I get the average of those. However if it is afternoon and the sun is on the pc the top intake will be higher by even 3 or 4 degrees that the water...so, I certainly could see differences in the delta depending on how the setup is done.


----------



## Costas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Squeaks5635*
> 
> Is your ambient air temp really 61 degrees F, How do you keep the delta T for water only at 1.8, what kind of setup do you have (rad space, and fan speeds).


Photo was taken about 6 months ago when it was winter here downunder in Aus. So water temp is in the ballpark for that time of year.

Delta reading may be out as I may have had the pc on for only a few mins. Typically in winter my delta hovers around 4 deg Celcius and approaches 6 to 8 deg C or so when my 780Ti which is overvolted and overclocked is pushed hard.

My system comprises of a 4790K running at 4.8GHz and with its cache tunning @ 4.6GHz. Vcore is set to 1.32v and cpu is delidded.

GFX is a single 780Ti whic is also overclocked and running higher GPU volts.

Overclocking and running extra voltage really dumps a lot of extra heat into the loop.

Cooling system mainly consists of 2x 480 rads fitted with Noiseblocker e loop fans usually running @ 750rpm but ramping up to 1600rpm when under full thermal load etc.

Note that I also run some fine air intake filters (Demci brand) which limits my air intake velocity a fair amount and thus impacts cooling performance, however the tradeoff is that my pc insides are kept quite dust free.


----------



## gamerking

just got my parts from performance pc's . the ek vardar fans are quiet as hell beats my sp120's . so far the aquaero software is mile times better then corsair link . i just have a few questions is there a way to have like 3 temp sensor's middle avg temp control the fan speed . i see Fuzzysham has something like i want in his last post in here ? also what is the power output 1/2 used for since i cant find any of there parts that use it . will have pictures tomorrow


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> i would recommend you read this ~!
> http://aquacomputer.de/handbuecher.html?file=tl_files/aquacomputer/downloads/manuals/aquaero_5_6_en_2014_04_14.pdf
> 
> from http://aquacomputer.de/handbuecher.html
> 
> although aquasuite has changed it is still more or less the same


i would reccomend reading the manual it will answer most of your questions
Quote:


> 11.2. Virtual temperature sensors Mode and up to three data sources (temperature sensors) can be selected for each of the four virtual temperature sensors. The selected mode determines, how the virtual temperature is calculated from the data sources:
> 
> Highest/lowest temperature: The virtual temperature sensor always shows the highest/lowest value of all assigned data sources. ● Average temperature: The virtual temperature sensor always shows the average value of all assigned data sources. ● Temperature difference: The virtual sensor reading equals the deviation of the first assigned temperature sensor from the second assigned temperature sensor as a signed value. Exactly two sensors must be assigned. If only one temperature sensor is assigned, the virtual sensor will not show a result, an addition third assigned temperature sensor will be ignored. ● Absolute temperature difference: The virtual sensor reading equals the deviation of the first assigned temperature sensor from the second assigned temperature sensor as an unsigned value. Exactly two sensors must be assigned. If only one temperature sensor is assigned, the virtual sensor will not show a result, an addition third assigned temperature sensor will be ignored. In the device menu, each data source can be selected from a list of available sensors. In the aquasuite, data sources from the sensor list can be assigned to the corresponding areas labeled "Temperature sensor 1-3" using drag&drop. Existing assignments can be deleted by clicking the red "X" symbol.


----------



## MrPT

Is this possible ? My temps after update, with standard radiator was



After putting LC block on it



I had 2 aquaero 5 pro and both had such high temps with original radiator and now this gain is even possible ?


----------



## skupples

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrPT*
> 
> Is this possible ? My temps after update, with standard radiator was
> 
> 
> 
> After putting LC block on it
> 
> 
> 
> I had 2 aquaero 5 pro and both had such high temps with original radiator and now this gain is even possible ?






You aren't the first person to report a massive spike in temps w/ AQ5 untis.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrPT*
> 
> Is this possible ? My temps after update, with standard radiator was
> 
> 
> 
> After putting LC block on it
> 
> 
> 
> I had 2 aquaero 5 pro and both had such high temps with original radiator and now this gain is even possible ?


yep. Your readings with the LC block should be something between 2-5 C above the water temp (taken from my on aq 5 lt with lc block). Of course that would depend on how much fans you have daisy chained on each channel but as a rule of thumb. Do you have water temp sensor?


----------



## MrPT

Woda and Woda2 is water temp, on chanel 1 i have ddc 18w pump, on 2,3&4 i have 3 nb eloop on each chanel. Well i didn't expect so drastic drop, anyway im happy because after update to new 2015 soft panel was overheating very often


----------



## Mega Man

yea that looks completely normal

VRMs really do not create much heat ( for watercooling )


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> yea that looks completely normal
> 
> VRMs really do not create much heat ( for watercooling )


the issue is people stating the fan amplifier temps doubling when going to the newest software... at least I thought that's what it was...


----------



## Mega Man

before his amps were in the 80s ( air cooled ) after they were in the 30s, even if it is warmer, it is still cooler water to air


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> before his amps were in the 80s ( air cooled ) after they were in the 30s, even if it is warmer, it is still cooler water to air


right, but i'm pretty sure people have reported those temps doubling when upgrading to the new firmware on the 5...

either way, my 6 gets his water temps, passively, w/o sink.


----------



## Costas

My 6XT used to report temps that were too low [below ambient] on the fan amplifiers.

After the update they now read about right...


----------



## apw63

Has anyone put one of the Real Time Clock Expansion Module on a 6 pro with the passive heat sink? I was wondering if the supplied screw that come with the module are long enough? If you had to get other screws what where the length?


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *apw63*
> 
> Has anyone put one of the Real Time Clock Expansion Module on a 6 pro with the passive heat sink? I was wondering if the supplied screw that come with the module are long enough? If you had to get other screws what where the length?


if the answer to your question is not here:

http://www.specialtechforums.co.uk/showthread.php?4791-Aqua-computer-new-aquaero-6-!!!!&highlight=aquaero

then drop @Namron a message.


----------



## 47 Knucklehead

More goodies came in today, can't wait to mess with them when I get home.











The Farbwerk USB controller, RGB LEDs, and interface cables from Aquacomputer direct from Germany. This will tie in with all the other Aquacomputer gear I have in the build and can be controlled and monitored via software on the PC or from the 5.25" bay from the Aquaero 6XT.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *47 Knucklehead*
> 
> More goodies came in today, can't wait to mess with them when I get home.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The Farbwerk USB controller, RGB LEDs, and interface cables from Aquacomputer direct from Germany. This will tie in with all the other Aquacomputer gear I have in the build and can be controlled and monitored via software on the PC or from the 5.25" bay from the Aquaero 6XT.



















I am jealous...Nothing in stock in fzcpu and ppc.


----------



## 47 Knucklehead

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I am jealous...Nothing in stock in fzcpu and ppc.


That's why I went direct to Germany.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *47 Knucklehead*
> 
> That's why I went direct to Germany.


yep, I known. But even there was listed as out of stock until like a week ago. Did you order it even been out of stock and waited for it?


----------



## 47 Knucklehead

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> yep, I known. But even there was listed as out of stock until like a week ago. Did you order it even been out of stock and waited for it?


I don't know if they cared if it was out of stock or not (some sites take your order even if it isn't in stock), I honestly don't remember the site saying it wasn't or not. I ordered it 3 weeks and 1 day ago (December 31st) and I think that things took so long mainly for shipping and because it was a holiday and most companies were shut down until the 5th. Then I'm guessing it took the better part of a week just to get to the US (I didn't pay for expedited shipping).


----------



## apw63

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> if the answer to your question is not here:
> 
> http://www.specialtechforums.co.uk/showthread.php?4791-Aqua-computer-new-aquaero-6-!!!!&highlight=aquaero
> 
> then drop @Namron a message.


Thank you that was what I needed and very helpful. +rep


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *47 Knucklehead*
> 
> More goodies came in today, can't wait to mess with them when I get home.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The Farbwerk USB controller, RGB LEDs, and interface cables from Aquacomputer direct from Germany. This will tie in with all the other Aquacomputer gear I have in the build and can be controlled and monitored via software on the PC or from the 5.25" bay from the Aquaero 6XT.


I have to wait until they come in stock at Frozen or PPCs . . they don't ship here from Germany, or aquatuning US..

But I do have my LEDs ready . . .
This is the base/mid plate for my TH10A chiller build:





Darlene


----------



## TheCautiousOne

You Make me So glossy Eyed.







I need to sell you a Car









The Cautious One


----------



## Freaxy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *47 Knucklehead*
> 
> More goodies came in today, can't wait to mess with them when I get home.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The Farbwerk USB controller, RGB LEDs, and interface cables from Aquacomputer direct from Germany. This will tie in with all the other Aquacomputer gear I have in the build and can be controlled and monitored via software on the PC or from the 5.25" bay from the Aquaero 6XT.


Got the farbwerk as well to control the aquacomputer led strips and it is awesome!
Together with the Aquaero 6XT they can be controlled by any temperature sensor or you can cycle through colors.
Awesome gadget


----------



## 47 Knucklehead

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> I have to wait until they come in stock at Frozen or PPCs . . they don't ship here from Germany, or aquatuning US..
> 
> But I do have my LEDs ready . . .
> This is the base/mid plate for my TH10A chiller build:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Darlene


Awesome. I love the "infinity effect". Is that done with multiple mirrors?


----------



## 47 Knucklehead

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Freaxy*
> 
> Got the farbwerk as well to control the aquacomputer led strips and it is awesome!
> Together with the Aquaero 6XT they can be controlled by any temperature sensor or you can cycle through colors.
> Awesome gadget


Yeah, that is my thought.

I used to have another RGB USB LED controller, from MJS Gadgets. It was pretty wild and did stuff that the Farbwerks doesn't do, like have a tie in to an MP3 player and would change the lights to the beat of the music. But that got old fast, and I think the Aquaero integration will be MUCH more useful.


----------



## Freaxy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *47 Knucklehead*
> 
> Yeah, that is my thought.
> 
> I used to have another RGB USB LED controller, from MJS Gadgets. It was pretty wild and did stuff that the Farbwerks doesn't do, like have a tie in to an MP3 player and would change the lights to the beat of the music. But that got old fast, and I think the Aquaero integration will be MUCH more useful.


That's pretty sweet too. I like EDM music, although for a PC personally I think it is too distracting.
I like to have LED strips in my pc, but it shouldn't be too flashy.
And with the farbwerk I can set it to cycle slowly or even cycle by temperature slowly.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *47 Knucklehead*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> I have to wait until they come in stock at Frozen or PPCs . . they don't ship here from Germany, or aquatuning US..
> 
> But I do have my LEDs ready . . .
> This is the base/mid plate for my TH10A chiller build:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Darlene
> 
> 
> 
> Awesome. I love the "infinity effect". Is that done with multiple mirrors?
Click to expand...

Mirror on the bottom, and a 2-way mirror on top.

Pics of the setup about halfway down page 3 of the buildlog:

http://www.overclock.net/t/1536054/divas-dementia-caselabs-th10a-chiller-3-plate-exchangers-triple-loop-quadfire-all-the-usual-diva-madness/20#post_23426580

Darlene


----------



## Freaxy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Mirror on the bottom, and a 2-way mirror on top.
> 
> Pics of the setup about halfway down page 3 of the buildlog:
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1536054/divas-dementia-caselabs-th10a-chiller-3-plate-exchangers-triple-loop-quadfire-all-the-usual-diva-madness/20#post_23426580
> 
> Darlene


Great effect with the mirrors








Really looks great!


----------



## apw63

My ASUS M7F does not supply 5v standby power to the Aquaero via the internal USB 2.0 header. Would any one see a problem with using one of these USB Type-A Male to USB 4-Pin Female Header Cable to supply standby power via the I/O panel? I would just feed it though one of the external water cooling plugs on my Mercury S8. The I/O panel headers will supply 5v during hibernation for charging phone and such. I'm considering the Real Time Clock module, the cable would be a cheaper alternative.


----------



## Gabrielzm

No problem at all. In fact I am using my AQ 5 lt that way right now.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *apw63*
> 
> My ASUS M7F does not supply 5v standby power to the Aquaero via the internal USB 2.0 header. Would any one see a problem with using one of these USB Type-A Male to USB 4-Pin Female Header Cable to supply standby power via the I/O panel? I would just feed it though one of the external water cooling plugs on my Mercury S8. The I/O panel headers will supply 5v during hibernation for charging phone and such. I'm considering the Real Time Clock module, the cable would be a cheaper alternative.


my M7I does.... why doesnt the formula? have you tried the rog ext usb port ?


----------



## skupples

placed my order for the LED controller, and 4x strips. Decided there was no point in setting it up in my server, so only beast is getting new lighting. Order placed via aquatuning, will see how long it takes. Haven't received any shipping info yet, though I don't expect to until next week, even though I placed the order yesterday.


----------



## ozzy1925

i see 2 different led types for farbwerk whats the difference between RGB-LED-Strip IP67 and the RGB-LED-Strip ?


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> placed my order for the LED controller, and 4x strips. Decided there was no point in setting it up in my server, so only beast is getting new lighting. Order placed via aquatuning, will see how long it takes. Haven't received any shipping info yet, though I don't expect to until next week, even though I placed the order yesterday.


better off putting that money into ram!!


----------



## skupples

ahh, was only $80... WAs going to be less, but Aquatuning gave me this "MUST SPEND $75" alert, which is a giant sack of horse poop, but w/e.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ozzy1925*
> 
> i see 2 different led types for farbwerk whats the difference between RGB-LED-Strip IP67 and the RGB-LED-Strip ?










didn't even notice this, now I need to go look at my order.


----------



## VSG

IP67 certification means safe for operation under exposure to dust and water for at least an hour. Really not necessary for us. I don't know if these are rated for longer though, then you could place them inside reservoirs like the Bitfenix Alchemy aqua LEDs.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ozzy1925*
> 
> i see 2 different led types for farbwerk whats the difference between RGB-LED-Strip IP67 and the RGB-LED-Strip ?


IP67 would be the strip with the silicon covering that allows for some waterproofing.

The other strip would have no covering, just the leds and resistors on the strip.

D.


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> IP67 certification means safe for operation under exposure to dust and water for at least an hour. Really not necessary for us. I don't know if these are rated for longer though, then you could place them inside reservoirs like the Bitfenix Alchemy aqua LEDs.


Ip 67 is exposure like a spray not immersion

Ip 68 is for 3m of water if memory serves me right!!


----------



## skupples

both AC branded strips were wrapped in what is normally considered waterproof housing.

+1 for the learns, VSG.


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> both AC branded strips were wrapped in what is normally considered waterproof housing.
> 
> +1 for the learns, VSG.


If they dont have a ip or nema rating it has not been tested and certified!! Compaines can say anything but if they have paid for this rating be sure it will do what it says! We us these in industry


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> If they dont have a ip or nema rating it has not been tested and certified!! Compaines can say anything but if they have paid for this rating be sure it will do what it says! We us these in industry


gotch'ya... I've never really had the want to submerse LEDs... Have to deal with enough submersed electronics in my marine tank.


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> Ip 67 is exposure like a spray not immersion
> 
> Ip 68 is for 3m of water if memory serves me right!!


Google Fu led me to immersion in 15cm to 1m? Noctua has IPPC IP67 fans which are ok under water also for whatever reason.


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Google Fu led me to immersion in 15cm to 1m? Noctua has IPPC IP67 fans which are ok under water also for whatever reason.


I did not look it up but seemed like at work we use 67 for spray, 68 for under water and 69 for high pressure spray... would have to pull the IP books out to make sure.. like I said it is if i remember right and I have killed a lot of brain cells so maybe not..


----------



## jagdtigger

Greetings.

I have a little problem with the plasticizer from my tubing and i have to blow apart the loop. And while im at it im thinking on upgrading the loop with 3 temp sensor and a flow sensor. But i have trouble deciding which one should be better, the mps flow xxx or this:
http://www.aquatuning.de/wasserkuehlung/ueberwachung/sensor-durchfluss/6146/aquacomputer-durchflusssensor-high-flow-g1/4-fuer-aquaero-aquastream-xt-ultra-und-poweradjust

What do you think about this?


----------



## Nomadskid

Officially an Aquaero 6 Pro owner! Going to do an unboxing video later!


----------



## Squeaks5635

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jagdtigger*
> 
> What do you think about this?


This is the one that I went with, and I have no issues with it. I chose it because I thought it had the greatest range compared to the MPS versions. Do not forget to order the special cord you need to connect it.


----------



## apw63

false
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> my M7I does.... why doesnt the formula? have you tried the rog ext usb port ?


Thank you for the help!







I must have been checking for stand by power after pulling and resetting the main power. I check after plugging the aquaero in to the rog ext usb and I am getting standby power. I'm still having troubles trying to get my mps devices to be recognized by the aquabus. I'm still can only get them to report as real-time clocks. This is very frustrating should not be this difficult to configure. I've lost count on how many resets, re-installs and reboots its become mind numbing.


----------



## ozzy1925

yesterday i wanted to test my pumps but i hear some thin and hum noise coming from both of them ,they are directly connected to psu:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=H4tYH0NMEJE&feature=youtu.be
when i try to move the pumps with my finger hum noise seem to gone but thin noise still there is this normal?


----------



## sinnedone

I have a quick question about a future purchase on an aquaero flow meter.

I am looking at the MPS Flow 100/200/400.

Which of these would be better suited for a mcp35x's flow range?

I am planning on purchasing an aquaero 5 LT at the same time.

Thank you all.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sinnedone*
> 
> I have a quick question about a future purchase on an aquaero flow meter.
> 
> I am looking at the MPS Flow 100/200/400.
> 
> Which of these would be better suited for a mcp35x's flow range?
> 
> I am planning on purchasing an aquaero 5 LT at the same time.
> 
> Thank you all.


the 400 no doubt. But bear in mind that its upper range is 2 GPM. So if for some reason your loop exceed that figure it will not report above that threshold. The 100 and 200 have even lower limits with the 200 at around 1 GPM and the 100 0.5 GPM. Notice however that the accuracy in the MPS400 will depend on the type of tube and fitting you use and if you are able to do a custom calibration. When done properly the accuracy is really good, up to or close to a King flow meter if I recall correctly. Even if not calibrated the maximum error was something like 7% from the top of my head so pretty damn good flow meter if you ask me with the benefit of not been restrictive like the high flow meter series.









Stren review:

http://www.xtremerigs.net/2013/04/30/aquacomputer-mps-400-flow-sensor/

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ozzy1925*
> 
> yesterday i wanted to test my pumps but i hear some thin and hum noise coming from both of them ,they are directly connected to psu:
> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=H4tYH0NMEJE&feature=youtu.be
> when i try to move the pumps with my finger hum noise seem to gone but thin noise still there is this normal?


sounds pretty normal to me specially if the pump was at 100% (default out of the box configuration for that model). You might reduce the even more the noise by decoupling.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *apw63*
> 
> false
> Thank you for the help!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I must have been checking for stand by power after pulling and resetting the main power. I check after plugging the aquaero in to the rog ext usb and I am getting standby power. I'm still having troubles trying to get my mps devices to be recognized by the aquabus. I'm still can only get them to report as real-time clocks. This is very frustrating should not be this difficult to configure. I've lost count on how many resets, re-installs and reboots its become mind numbing.


what MPS device you have? How many? All of them are connected via Aquabus? Did you change the bus address so they do not conflict with one another? Can you take a screenshot of what appear in your Aquasuite?


----------



## Freaxy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sinnedone*
> 
> I have a quick question about a future purchase on an aquaero flow meter.
> 
> I am looking at the MPS Flow 100/200/400.
> 
> Which of these would be better suited for a mcp35x's flow range?
> 
> I am planning on purchasing an aquaero 5 LT at the same time.
> 
> Thank you all.


To give you an idea of the flow from a MCP35X:
Mines running with a 480 monsta rad, a 480 60mm rad, 2 GPU blocks in parallel and a CPU block. The pump at full speed gives about 340 L/h, so you should probably really look at 400 L/h at least.
Personally I got the Highflow variant.


----------



## sinnedone

Thank you both. I don't "plan" on running the pump full tilt so I guess the 400 it is. Not alot of room in my build so I need the smallest possible.


----------



## Freaxy

I don't run it full speed either, but I like the flow meter to at least go up to the max flow the pump can put out


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sinnedone*
> 
> Thank you both. I don't "plan" on running the pump full tilt so I guess the 400 it is. Not alot of room in my build so I need the smallest possible.


More than welcome mate. Unlikely that you will hit the limit. I did hit it while I was testing individual components but not on the actual loop which both tops at 1.5 GPM.







BTW if you are using 3/8 x 5/8 tubes and bitspower fittings fast fate have a custom calibration file for it on the mps400. It is posted on the community thread testing and I have the file too if you want.


----------



## Nomadskid

Can someone help me out? I have the Aquaero 6 powered and plugged into USB however it isn't detected by anything.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nomadskid*
> 
> Can someone help me out? I have the Aquaero 6 powered and plugged into USB however it isn't detected by anything.


check the USB connection mate. The black wires go to the side of the USB connection missing one pin. Most likely is just the USB connection.


----------



## Nomadskid

I have the USB on the art of the controlller with 4 pins and the black is at the missing pin.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nomadskid*
> 
> I have the USB on the art of the controlller with 4 pins and the black is at the missing pin.


Have you installed Aquasuite? It does not show up there? If not then try a different USB port on your MB.


----------



## Nomadskid

Yup, it's installed. I'll try to use a different port.


----------



## Freaxy

Not sure if your motherboard has this, but is the USB header/port enabled in the BIOS?


----------



## ozzy1925

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> sounds pretty normal to me specially if the pump was at 100% (default out of the box configuration for that model). You might reduce the even more the noise by decoupling.


thanks, after watching d5 pump videos it seem normal to me


----------



## Nomadskid

Yup, I changed ports and it is still not working however it is receiving power and outputting power. I have my fans hooked into it right now, but I cannot see it in any software and the screen does not work


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nomadskid*
> 
> Yup, I changed ports and it is still not working however it is receiving power and outputting power. I have my fans hooked into it right now, but I cannot see it in any software and the screen does not work


have you placed any heatsink or block in it? Can you test it without anything hook to it? I mean no fans, sensors nothing. Just molex and usb.


----------



## Nomadskid

No heatsink or block. I can put the fans back on the motherboard.


----------



## Gabrielzm

it is just to test if the aquaero is detected without anything on it. If that does not work out try a different PC/mb if you have access to it. If does not work on a different pc then perhaps is rma time.


----------



## Freaxy

If the screen doesn't work it sounds like it doesn't get power from the molex.


----------



## Nomadskid

I'm not sure what to do. @Shoggy can you help?


----------



## apw63

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> what MPS device you have? How many? All of them are connected via Aquabus? Did you change the bus address so they do not conflict with one another? Can you take a screenshot of what appear in your Aquasuite?


I have the MPS 400 flow meter and aqualis XT REZ with lvl indicator MPS 40.

During the many setups, the MPS devices where only hooked up one at a time to be configure per USB. After configuration and saving, control changed to aquabus controll with unique bus address, ether 12 or 13, configuration saved again, system shut down, power pulled along with usb, aquabus conected to high bus and then to MPS, power re applied, system started, inside aquasuite MPS connected device reports as real-time clock, nothing under flow meter or lvl indicator. I did this multiple times out side of the system with separate PSU. I've tried second computer with different PSU. I've used different cables with only the same results real-time clock. I don't even have the real-time clock module.

Here is the kicker, all of the devices have been sent back to Aquacomputer at my expense. I sent them in on AC request for troubleshooting. AC could not reproduce then issue. AC sent emailed pictures of devices working correctly. So before and after AC still nothing but real-time clock. I have been talking with AC via email. The problem is still unresolved. As it stands now the MPS devices are installed in my system communication via USB. I will hook one up later this afternoon via aquabus and see about getting you some screen shots.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *apw63*
> 
> I have the MPS 400 flow meter and aqualis XT REZ with lvl indicator MPS 40.
> 
> During the many setups, the MPS devices where only hooked up one at a time to be configure per USB. After configuration and saving, control changed to aquabus controll with unique bus address, ether 12 or 13, configuration saved again, system shut down, power pulled along with usb, aquabus conected to high bus and then to MPS, power re applied, system started, inside aquasuite MPS connected device reports as real-time clock, nothing under flow meter or lvl indicator. I did this multiple times out side of the system with separate PSU. I've tried second computer with different PSU. I've used different cables with only the same results real-time clock. I don't even have the real-time clock module.
> 
> Here is the kicker, all of the devices have been sent back to Aquacomputer at my expense. I sent them in on AC request for troubleshooting. AC could not reproduce then issue. AC sent emailed pictures of devices working correctly. So before and after AC still nothing but real-time clock. I have been talking with AC via email. The problem is still unresolved. As it stands now the MPS devices are installed in my system communication via USB. I will hook one up later this afternoon via aquabus and see about getting you some screen shots.


but under USB connection they work fine?


----------



## Domiro

I intend to make my own fan wiring for the AQ 5LT. Eight Of them 3 pin and another eight PWM. Just to double-check whether this is the correct way to hook them up; black negative, red positive, yellow tacho and green PWM.

PWM Fans are 1.44W per fan and the voltage controlled ones 1.09W per fan, so none would need to be powered directly from the PSU


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!







Edit;

And sorry for the paint skills. You'd think I'm still in kindergarden.


----------



## apw63

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> but under USB connection they work fine?


Yes works perfect with USB. I just don't get any of the functionality I would if it was reporting to the aquaero in aquasuite.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *apw63*
> 
> Yes works perfect with USB. I just don't get any of the functionality I would if it was reporting to the aquaero in aquasuite.


No mate. Connecting via USB or Aquabus makes no difference for functionality as far as I known. I have used both the fill level sensor (pressure differential on the reservoirs) as well as high flow USB and MPS 400 and if you have it on USB working fine then you should have all the functions available in Aquasuite even if not connected through the Aquaero Aquabus, unless I am missing something here. You can use a single page in Aquasuite to put everything together working no?

BTW, silly question so bear with me and don't offended. Have you connected all devices to the high speed aquabus corrrect?


----------



## apw63

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> No mate. Connecting via USB or Aquabus makes no difference for functionality as far as I known. I have used both the fill level sensor (pressure differential on the reservoirs) as well as high flow USB and MPS 400 and if you have it on USB working fine then you should have all the functions available in Aquasuite even if not connected through the Aquaero Aquabus, unless I am missing something here. You can use a single page in Aquasuite to put everything together working no?
> 
> BTW, silly question so bear with me and don't offended. Have you connected all devices to the high speed aquabus corrrect?


No I'm not offended need to cover all bases. Yes the devices are connected to the high speed bus

Correct me if I'm wrong but functionality that is not capable with out aquabus communication.

1. Can not calculate power with out flow meter. May not be 100% accurate but still would like to use it.
2. Can not use temp headers in controllers (curves). Not the internal temp sensors but the temp header.
3. Can not use low flow or low lvl to shut down system through relay. This maybe achievable with another cable from 3 pin alarm header. I would prefer not to run another cable.
4. Can not get readout on Aquaero display panel (flow, LVL or temp)

Sure I can configure them in aquasuite to display data. I bought the aquaero with the idea of having some of these functions for safety automation. Without the aquabus the automation is not passable as far as I know.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *apw63*
> 
> No I'm not offended need to cover all bases. Yes the devices are connected to the high speed bus
> 
> Correct me if I'm wrong but functionality that is not capable with out aquabus communication.
> 
> 1. Can not calculate power with out flow meter. May not be 100% accurate but still would like to use it.
> 
> *I think you can since the power feature need the flow, temp in and out from the rad. All that can be done with the mps on the USB for example.*
> 
> 2. Can not use temp headers in controllers (curves). Not the internal temp sensors but the temp header.
> 
> *Yes you can. I am running like this right now. BTW the temp sensor I Use are the 8 available on the Aquaero not the additional port on the MPS dvices.
> *
> 3. Can not use low flow or low lvl to shut down system through relay. This maybe achievable with another cable from 3 pin alarm header. I would prefer not to run another cable.
> 
> *That I don't known.*
> 
> 4. Can not get readout on Aquaero display panel (flow, LVL or temp)
> 
> *Yep, that one I am not aware how to do it and suspect and really not possible.
> *
> Sure I can configure them in aquasuite to display data. I bought the aquaero with the idea of having some of these functions for safety automation. Without the aquabus the automation is not passable as far as I know.


Yep, understand but see above.

cheers


----------



## apw63

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Yep, understand but see above.
> 
> cheers


The power calculation is done inside the aquaero tab in the sensors tab. You have to be able to drop the Flow meter in to sensors tab with 2 temp sensors. Without aquabus communication you can not see the flow meter in the sensors tab, so no power calculation.

Yes I know you can use curves with the 8 aquaero temp headers. I currently have may fans and pump controlled via these headers. If I had aquabus communication I would have 2 more temp headers to use. Making a total of 10 temp headers.

My post has nothing to do with the functionality my aquaero, but is about the added functionality that the aquabus brings to the table. Aquaero works aquabus does not.


----------



## Holynacho

Not sure if this has been posted yet, but PerformancePC has the Farbwerk RGB controllers in stock









http://www.performance-pcs.com/flex-lights/aquacomputer-farbwerk-usb-aquabus-version.html


----------



## Gabrielzm

got it @apw63. Sorry I can not help you more since all the things I could come up you already tried. And yes you are correct about the power measure. Was just checking now and my mps are connected via USB not aquabus and was not able to create the power measurement unless I am missing something here.

Thank you @Holynacho









edit - ordered


----------



## Shoggy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nomadskid*
> 
> I'm not sure what to do. @Shoggy can you help?


Try to get the device into the recovery mode and flash it again. If that does not help you can be sure there is something wrong with it and it must be returned:

1.) Turn off the PC and remove all connections with exception of power and USB.

2.) Place four jumpers on the temperature sensor connectors 5 to 8.

3.) Power on the system and after a short moment you should see a recovery mode screen in the aquaero display and the device should also beep two times.

4.) Turn the PC off and remove the jumpers from the aquaero.

5.) Start the PC and use the latest aquasuite 2015 software to flash the firmware onto the aquaero.

6.) Turn off the PC, connect all sensors etc. again and start the PC.


----------



## natsu2014

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nomadskid*
> 
> Can someone help me out? I have the Aquaero 6 powered and plugged into USB however it isn't detected by anything.


Same issue with my 5LT. Had to RMA it since nothing worked. Same problem on 2pc's, tried to do what shoggy said and even then aquasuite was not detecting the aquaero.


----------



## Nomadskid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> Try to get the device into the recovery mode and flash it again. If that does not help you can be sure there is something wrong with it and it must be returned:
> 
> 1.) Turn off the PC and remove all connections with exception of power and USB.
> 
> 2.) Place four jumpers on the temperature sensor connectors 5 to 8.
> 
> 3.) Power on the system and after a short moment you should see a recovery mode screen in the aquaero display and the device should also beep two times.
> 
> 4.) Turn the PC off and remove the jumpers from the aquaero.
> 
> 5.) Start the PC and use the latest aquasuite 2015 software to flash the firmware onto the aquaero.
> 
> 6.) Turn off the PC, connect all sensors etc. again and start the PC.


By jumpers, can i use the sensors them selves? or what do I need to use. I tried to use the sensors and there was no response from the device.


----------



## Costas

^^^

No, sensors will not work as shorting jumpers. You need to use those two pin shorting jumpers which basically short out the two pins that they are placed across. These are the ones that were all too common on motherboards in years gone by.


----------



## Nomadskid

I jumped all of the plugs and thre was still no response from the aquaero.


----------



## Nomadskid

Just to clarify, the USB goes the the part of the USB plug with four pins, with the red being on the first pin and the last black being in the spot with the missing pin, correct.


----------



## apw63

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nomadskid*
> 
> Just to clarify, the USB goes the the part of the USB plug with four pins, with the red being on the first pin and the last black being in the spot with the missing pin, correct.


Yes that is correct


----------



## Jakusonfire

Got my replacement Aquaero 6 today. pccasegear was good and just shipped it right out rather than making me wait for it to be tested in Germany or anything crazy like that. Here's hoping this one is problem free.

Glad I waited for them to become available locally instead of importing. ..... Although probably never would have had the problem anyway.

Edit: And it works great now. Man, the 6 has renewed my love affair with the Aquaero. Its so nice not to feel a little glowing ember of fan amps heatsink like on the 5, and multiple PWM channels is great. I have finally come around to PWM and will likely swap all my voltage fans. Even on the AQ5 I can run 6 high draw PWM fans on channel 4 at low speed and have lower amp temps than the 2 x 2 low draw fans on chan 1 & 2. Its amazing how much of a difference just running at 12V makes.


----------



## gdubc

Was about to order a farbwerk controller, but that dang shipping! $12 is to steep for a small $36 item. Guess I will wait and hope they still have it when I can afford a couple pumps and make that more worth the cost. I so sad.


----------



## Mega Man

you can email them and most of the time they will work with you on shipping fyi i have done it several times !

i usually just say something like

" really 12$ to drop it in a padded envelope with some bubble wrap-"

or " is there any way you can work with me on this shipping !! "


----------



## gdubc

Thanks, I will try that and see. +rep sir.


----------



## Costas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> Got my replacement Aquaero 6 today. pccasegear was good and just shipped it right out


Good on PCCG to do that for you. I see that PCCG have recently started to handle the Aquaero and some of it's accesoriess.

Just purchased some D5's and a dual D5 pump top and happened to stumble on their Aquaero bits only this morning. So I grabbed a spare hi flow non usb sensor while the price is good. Due to the AUD slipping over the last two months I suspect some of their prices will go up a tad.


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Costas*
> 
> Good on PCCG to do that for you. I see that PCCG have recently started to handle the Aquaero and some of it's accesoriess.
> 
> Just purchased some D5's and a dual D5 pump top and happened to stumble on their Aquaero bits only this morning. So I grabbed a spare hi flow non usb sensor while the price is good. Due to the AUD slipping over the last two months I suspect some of their prices will go up a tad.


Yeah they have really picked up their game in stocking good water gear. I try to tell as many people as possible to use the suggest stocking thing on their site. They went through a chillingly horrible period where they seemed to almost become an Aquatuning franchise with only that type and those brands of gear.

Did they have the flow meter cable when you bought your flow meter?


----------



## Nomadskid

I've tried doing the recovery mode, and I did not get a recovery screen or two beeps from the Aquaero. I've tried two different USB cables. Does anyones Aquaero have a gap where the screen connects to the board I can see the pins going into the screen so I think they may not be making contact?
 edit: sorry about the picture quality I'm really shaky today


----------



## Costas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> Did they have the flow meter cable when you bought your flow meter?


Nah... I did not see it in their list of AquaComputer bits. I make up my own cables and I sourced some of the larger 3 pin connectors that the flow meter uses from a local electronics shop quite some time ago when I was building my rig. If you need any let me know and I can grab some for you and post them over (I'm in Adelaide BTW).


----------



## 4WDBenio

A new addition I see from AC....they have launched a true PWM D5 Pump....ie works with any Intel PWM standard controller...better than the Aqubus interface pump?


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *4WDBenio*
> 
> A new addition I see from AC....they have launched a true PWM D5 Pump....ie works with any Intel PWM standard controller...better than the Aqubus interface pump?


Gotta link?

D.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

http://shop.aquacomputer.de/product_info.php?products_id=3255&XTCsid=t20b40t15kpqfo2d5jdda2db0tececcg
Quote:


> Important: The Aqua Computer D5 pump has an optimized PWM input and can be used with any Intel PWM standard compatible fan controller. This pump can be used with aquaero 5/6 PWM fan outputs without any heat dissipiation at the aquaero. All other currently available (as of January 2015) D5 pumps with PWM input use different hardware that will not work correctly with the PWM outputs of aquaero 5/6 devices. This pump is compatible with nearly any PWM fan controller on the market.


Interesting.


----------



## Mega Man

Translation. They have the it diva mod built in for us


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> http://shop.aquacomputer.de/product_info.php?products_id=3255&XTCsid=t20b40t15kpqfo2d5jdda2db0tececcg
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Important: The Aqua Computer D5 pump has an optimized PWM input and can be used with any Intel PWM standard compatible fan controller. This pump can be used with aquaero 5/6 PWM fan outputs without any heat dissipiation at the aquaero. All other currently available (as of January 2015) D5 pumps with PWM input use different hardware that will not work correctly with the PWM outputs of aquaero 5/6 devices. This pump is compatible with nearly any PWM fan controller on the market.
> 
> 
> 
> Interesting.
Click to expand...

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> Translation. They have the it diva mod built in for us


That'd be my guess as well.

Pretty significant shift in their winds from about a year ago when they pooo - paaaaaad optimizing enough to be PWM D5 compatible, as though it was beneath them.

Darlene


----------



## Shoggy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nomadskid*
> 
> Does anyones Aquaero have a gap where the screen connects to the board I can see the pins going into the screen so I think they may not be making contact?


This is normal and no problem. The pins are more than long enough to make contact.


----------



## IT Diva

@Shoggy . . . Can you run more than 1 version of Aquasuite on a pc?

I'd like to be able to run the 2014 version for Aquaeros with the older firmware, (that I have no need to update) as well as to be able to run the 2015 version to update firmware in some newer aquaeros so they are Farbwerk compatable.

Thanks in advance,

Darlene


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *4WDBenio*
> 
> A new addition I see from AC....they have launched a true PWM D5 Pump....ie works with any Intel PWM standard controller...better than the Aqubus interface pump?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> http://shop.aquacomputer.de/product_info.php?products_id=3255&XTCsid=t20b40t15kpqfo2d5jdda2db0tececcg
> Interesting.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> Translation. They have the it diva mod built in for us


Interesting indeed. About time also. Pity I can't swap my 3 Swiftech PWM d5 for those. Still need the Diva Adapter for those if I ever want to run with the Aquaero. I wish that was launched six months ago. I would have got those instead of the USB version for the Chessboard.


----------



## Nomadskid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> This is normal and no problem. The pins are more than long enough to make contact.


If this is the case, I believe the Unit I received was defective.


----------



## Ironsmack

Hey @ITDiva

Can you add another 5 LT and (2) PA2 on my list. Got a good deal on the LT and PA2


----------



## Ragsters

So the new RGB led controller is out and I want more info. I know this is the fan controller club but the led controller is too new. Anyway maybe someone can point me to the right direction. Also, can the Aquaero controller leds? I guess if it could I would just save up. I wonder if Aqua computer's next iteration will have an rgb xontroller built in.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ragsters*
> 
> So the new RGB led controller is out and I want more info. I know this is the fan controller club but the led controller is too new. Anyway maybe someone can point me to the right direction. Also, can the Aquaero controller leds? I guess if it could I would just save up. I wonder if Aqua computer's next iteration will have an rgb xontroller built in.


I just tested yesterday the AQ 6 rgb port; It does control brightness and color but since I was using this: http://www.kustompcs.co.uk/acatalog/info_9067.html

the effect was not so god since the bulb itself is kind of blue. But it does work. Notice however that the connection to the Aquaero is that 4 pin header similar to a PWM header. I will get my hands on the fabwerk tomorrow if customs allow it.


----------



## Ragsters

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> I just tested yesterday the AQ 6 rgb port; It does control brightness and color but since I was using this: http://www.kustompcs.co.uk/acatalog/info_9067.html
> 
> the effect was not so god since the bulb itself is kind of blue. But it does work. Notice however that the connection to the Aquaero is that 4 pin header similar to a PWM header. I will get my hands on the fabwerk tomorrow if customs allow it.


Sweet! Report back here if you could!


----------



## Ironsmack

How do you guys set the PA2 to control fans based on temps?

Im trying to set up my PA2 on my HTPC but it just turn off when i set it for Temp control.

Correct me if im wrong, but i see Target temp as the temp you want the fans to kick in (whether in full speed or gradually), right?


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ironsmack*
> 
> How do you guys set the PA2 to control fans based on temps?
> 
> Im trying to set up my PA2 on my HTPC but it just turn off when i set it for Temp control.
> 
> Correct me if im wrong, but i see Target temp as the temp you want the fans to kick in (whether in full speed or gradually), right?
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


yep. But since you have not configured the temperature sensor it stays at zero if I am reading your photo correctly; Notice also that you have the option for manual control. Don´t forget also to check the properties of the fans too. So click on the fans tab on the PA2 and see how it is configured there.


----------



## Ironsmack

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> yep. But since you have not configured the temperature sensor it stays at zero if I am reading your photo correctly; Notice also that you have the option for manual control. Don´t forget also to check the properties of the fans too. So click on the fans tab on the PA2 and see how it is configured there.


Okay, from what i understand - i need a separate temp sensor to use instead of the built in sensor from Open Hardware? Or at least software sensor from the mobo.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ironsmack*
> 
> Okay, from what i understand - i need a separate temp sensor to use instead of the built in sensor from Open Hardware? Or at least software sensor from the mobo.


in the mode you selected yes if I understand this correctly. But noticed that on the top you have 3 options: manual fan power, speed controlled and the one you selected. My bet is if you put on manual or speed controlled your fans will start...


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ironsmack*
> 
> Okay, from what i understand - i need a separate temp sensor to use instead of the built in sensor from Open Hardware? Or at least software sensor from the mobo.


I am just about certain you need a temp sensor, not sure if you can use the software sensors to set fan controls.


----------



## Ironsmack

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> in the mode you selected yes if I understand this correctly. But noticed that on the top you have 3 options: manual fan power, speed controlled and the one you selected. My bet is if you put on manual or speed controlled your fans will start...


Yup, they do. But i just choose to do it manual control until i get my new case for the HTPC.

Its only running (3) fans so no biggie.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> I am just about certain you need a temp sensor, not sure if you can use the software sensors to set fan controls.


That's what i figured. There's no option (or at least i can see) to choose software sensors to activate the thermal control.


----------



## WiLd FyeR

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ironsmack*
> 
> Yup, they do. But i just choose to do it manual control until i get my new case for the HTPC.
> 
> Its only running (3) fans so no biggie.
> That's what i figured. There's no option (or at least i can see) to choose software sensors to activate the thermal control.


You can use software sensors for fan control.


----------



## reset1101

Hi all! Sorry if this question has been asked before but I just cant find it.

I own an Aquaero 6. Im about to reinstall Windows. I have exported the Settings into a file (aquaero, System, Settings, Export Settings). My question is if when I reinstall Aquaero and import the settings again, which settings does it save? Fan profiles, pump profile, sensors...? Does this export/import thing work fine or sometimes Aquasuite trolls you and doesnt import properly?

Thanks a lot!


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *reset1101*
> 
> Hi all! Sorry if this question has been asked before but I just cant find it.
> 
> I own an Aquaero 6. Im about to reinstall Windows. I have exported the Settings into a file (aquaero, System, Settings, Export Settings). My question is if when I reinstall Aquaero and import the settings again, which settings does it save? Fan profiles, pump profile, sensors...? Does this export/import thing work fine or sometimes Aquasuite trolls you and doesnt import properly?
> 
> Thanks a lot!


It saves all settings and it works without fail as long as the version of Aquasuite you install is the same as the one that was operating with the Aquaero at the time or not a major new revision.

It is also useful to export any overview pages you have set up. Make sure to save everything to somewhere other than the default directory.
Its useful to do this often anyway just to have backups even though once you have a good understanding of Aquasuite it is not a major problem to re create settings.

Edit: Correction, it saves all settings except the data logging settings and a custom logo uploaded to the Aqauero for the LCD display.


----------



## reset1101

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> It saves all settings and it works without fail as long as the version of Aquasuite you install is the same as the one that was operating with the Aquaero at the time or not a major new revision.
> 
> It is also useful to export any overview pages you have set up. Make sure to save everything to somewhere other than the default directory.
> Its useful to do this often anyway just to have backups even though once you have a good understanding of Aquasuite it is not a major problem to re create settings.
> 
> Edit: Correction, it saves all settings except the data logging settings and a custom logo uploaded to the Aqauero for the LCD display.


Thx a lot for the answer







When you say export any overview pages I have set up, you mean screenshots or there is another way of doing it?


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *reset1101*
> 
> Thx a lot for the answer
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When you say export any overview pages I have set up, you mean screenshots or there is another way of doing it?


If you click on the little gear wheel of any overview page tab there is an import/export section


----------



## reset1101

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> If you click on the little gear wheel of any overview page tab there is an import/export section


I see them, thx a lot


----------



## Ironsmack

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiLd FyeR*
> 
> You can use software sensors for fan control.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


I don't see that using the Power Adjust 2. I only see that option on my 5 LT.


----------



## Gabrielzm

@Shoggy, @IT Diva or whoever have the farbwerk. The device is asking me to update firmware from 1001 but when I click the update nothing happen. I suppose the device should be connected via USB to update correct?


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> @Shoggy, @IT Diva or whoever have the farbwerk. The device is asking me to update firmware from 1001 but when I click the update nothing happen. I suppose the device should be connected via USB to update correct?


I had the Aquasuite 2015 V3 installed on my little test machine and then connected the Farbwerk USB cable, and it didn't ask me to update anything . . . the tab says it has the latest firmware.

If you have an Aquaero in the setup, it'll make you update that firmware.

Shoggy would know if you need to use the USB to update firmware before being able to use just the Aquabus connection after that.

I'll put the new A6's that go to the DD build on the test machine this weekend and see how the firmware update for them goes.

With three A6's and a Farbwerk, I got one of those NZXT internal USB hubs to have enough internal connections.

Darlene


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> I had the Aquasuite 2015 V3 installed on my little test machine and then connected the Farbwerk USB cable, and it didn't ask me to update anything . . . the tab says it has the latest firmware.
> 
> If you have an Aquaero in the setup, it'll make you update that firmware.
> 
> Shoggy would know if you need to use the USB to update firmware before being able to use just the Aquabus connection after that.
> 
> I'll put the new A6's that go to the DD build on the test machine this weekend and see how the firmware update for them goes.
> 
> With three A6's and a Farbwerk, I got one of those NZXT internal USB hubs to have enough internal connections.
> 
> Darlene


Yep. Was running 2015 v2. Just a simple updated and bingo. Thks Darlene.









EDIT- another question. Would something like this be able to be used on the farbwerk to dim the white light?

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/12827/lit-246/BitFenix_Alchemy_Connect_30_LED_Light_Strip_-_600mm_-_White_BFA-ACL-60WK30-RP.html?id=qoZirWg5&mv_pc=875#blank


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> I had the Aquasuite 2015 V3 installed on my little test machine and then connected the Farbwerk USB cable, and it didn't ask me to update anything . . . the tab says it has the latest firmware.
> 
> If you have an Aquaero in the setup, it'll make you update that firmware.
> 
> Shoggy would know if you need to use the USB to update firmware before being able to use just the Aquabus connection after that.
> 
> I'll put the new A6's that go to the DD build on the test machine this weekend and see how the firmware update for them goes.
> 
> With three A6's and a Farbwerk, I got one of those NZXT internal USB hubs to have enough internal connections.
> 
> Darlene
> 
> 
> 
> Yep. Was running 2015 v2. Just a simple updated and bingo. Thks Darlene.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> EDIT- another question. Would something like this be able to be used on the farbwerk to dim the white light?
> 
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/12827/lit-246/BitFenix_Alchemy_Connect_30_LED_Light_Strip_-_600mm_-_White_BFA-ACL-60WK30-RP.html?id=qoZirWg5&mv_pc=875#blank
Click to expand...

Not sure I follow the question . . .

The Farbwerk has a slider to set the brightness for each channel, and if you have that channel set to give white from an RGB strip, you can set that brightness just like for any other color you have a channel set to.

You don't need anything external for controlling the brightness.

As a word of Diva warning, if you buy anything electrical or LED strips from Phobya, Bitfenix, or the usual cheap sources, you'll end up wishing you had slammed your balls in the car door instead . . .

That stuff is such crap, from the non existent QC to the blind monkeys that do the soldering, and the frustration and aggravation it causes is off the charts . . .

On another note;

I plugged up the new A6s for the DD build (one at a time) and the firmware update went without a hitch . . . I open Aquasuite and the Aquaeros and Farbwerk are all there.

Darlene


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Not sure I follow the question . . .
> 
> The Farbwerk has a slider to set the brightness for each channel, and if you have that channel set to give white from an RGB strip, you can set that brightness just like for any other color you have a channel set to.
> 
> You don't need anything external for controlling the brightness.
> 
> As a word of Diva warning, if you buy anything electrical or LED strips from Phobya, Bitfenix, or the usual cheap sources, you'll end up wishing you had slammed your balls in the car door instead . . .
> 
> That stuff is such crap, from the non existent QC to the blind monkeys that do the soldering, and the frustration and aggravation it causes is off the charts . . .
> 
> On another note;
> 
> I plugged up the new A6s for the DD build (one at a time) and the firmware update went without a hitch . . . I open Aquasuite and the Aquaeros and Farbwerk are all there.
> 
> Darlene


Yeah I already got in the trap of Bitfenix...Never again. Just did this. First shot at 60% and second one at 100%:






A little solder with a piece of wire, white leds stripe and a 30 cm fan extension. Hook it up to a Lamptron controller and bingo: Dimmable white led stripe. Should have done that before... My question was doing the same but using the Farbwerk. Got your PM and fully understood.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Not sure I follow the question . . .
> 
> The Farbwerk has a slider to set the brightness for each channel, and if you have that channel set to give white from an RGB strip, you can set that brightness just like for any other color you have a channel set to.
> 
> You don't need anything external for controlling the brightness.
> 
> As a word of Diva warning, if you buy anything electrical or LED strips from Phobya, Bitfenix, or the usual cheap sources, you'll end up wishing you had slammed your balls in the car door instead . . .
> 
> That stuff is such crap, from the non existent QC to the blind monkeys that do the soldering, and the frustration and aggravation it causes is off the charts . . .
> 
> On another note;
> 
> I plugged up the new A6s for the DD build (one at a time) and the firmware update went without a hitch . . . I open Aquasuite and the Aquaeros and Farbwerk are all there.
> 
> Darlene
> 
> 
> 
> Yeah I already got in the trap of Bitfenix...Never again. Just did this. First shot at 60% and second one at 100%:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A little solder with a piece of wire, white leds stripe and an 30 cm fan extension. Hook it up to a Lamptron controller and bingo: Dimmable white led stripe. Should have done that before... My question was doing the same but using the Farbwerk. Got your PM and fully understood.
Click to expand...

Yea, the PM asked it much more understandably, lol

You can do it with the Farby just fine, as long as the current for the strip doesn't exceed the capability of the individual color channel within the RGB channel.

@ Shoggy How much current can each of the color channel of an RGB channel carry?

Edit: Found the answer right there in the user guide







. . . . 2.5A max for any single color channel, but no to exceed 8A total for all 12 combined

Darlene


----------



## electro2u

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> You can do it with the *Farby* just fine, as long as the current for the strip doesn't exceed the capability of the individual color channel within the RGB channel.



Fergie


Furby


FARBY!


----------



## testplsignore

How do you guys like your Aquaero 6s?

PCCG in Australia have recently started to stock the A6 XT, and I'm a sucker for telemetry and automation; so I'm considering buying an A6 instead of using Asus PWM fan control.
The build is a fairly powerful WC setup, 9x120mm with PWM fans.

Is Aquasuite 2015 usable/stable without encountering random German? How easy is it to setup automation based on the difference between two (hot and cold) temp sensors?

Are the temperature/telemetry LCD menus standard? Or are they custom?

How useful is the flow sensor? I already plan to have two temp sensors (one AC and one bitspower)

Can I control molex LED strips with the A6? Or should I look into the new Fabwerk? PCCG currently dont stock the Fabwerk RGB strips.

PCCG only have a small range of AC gear, as of now. So no aquabus pumps or reservoirs yet.

Thanks for your help, I've never looked into Aquaero before as I've never seen it stocked in Aus before.


----------



## electro2u

Love the aq6xt but it's overkill for me. It can control led straps off one of the fan controllers but for RGB you'd want the farbwerk. the lcd pages are all standard but supports custom designs.


----------



## Dagamus NM

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> As a word of Diva warning, if you buy anything electrical or LED strips from Phobya, Bitfenix, or the usual cheap sources, you'll end up wishing you had slammed your balls in the car door instead . . .
> 
> That stuff is such crap, from the non existent QC to the blind monkeys that do the soldering, and the frustration and aggravation it causes
> 
> Darlene


I hear you on this. It is a bummer that phobya seems to be the only company making 200mm x 200/400mm radiators and then having to go bitfenix for fans. One of my builds uses several of these and I always get nervous that these will corrode through even with anti-corrosives.

So the rest of my setup comes in the mail from frozen on Monday. This will take my AQC stuff to two aquaero 6 pros (with passive red heat sinks and the active copper waterblocks), four usb D5's, four usb/aquabus high flow meters, one airplex modularity 420mm copper with the eheim pump, res, and built in flow meter and four poweradjust 3 ultras with red passive heat sinks (three to be mounted in the same mount bezel that the 2's use). I will be ordering four of the Farby's from FCPU when they clear customs this week. (Here is the link for anybody interested http://www.frozencpu.com/products/26371/bus-412/ ) this may seem like a lot but it is split across two computers.

So regardless of having the real time clock I am still limited to four devices addresses on the aquabus right?

So the first build will use four d5's in three loops, two on the gpu loop (quad-sli 780ti's with ek nickel Plexi, one on the CPU, and one for the ram, chipset, and aquaero. This build gets one flow meter per loop, three power adjust 3 ultras, and two Farby's.

This stated, it is my idea that I will install all of this with the four pumps connected via the high speed aquabus. The power adjusts, the Farby's, and the flow meters will all be connected via USB. I have ordered a few of the NZXT USB splitter things to support the need for internal USB 2 headers.

Does this sound right to you? Am I missing anything? Should I connect it differently than using all of my aquabus headers for the pumps?

Also, the new firmware kills the aquabus low setting, is the header dead or can it be used as a three pin connector for aquabus high?


----------



## Costas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *testplsignore*
> 
> How do you guys like your Aquaero 6s?


I love it. Sure it is a tad more expensive than your 50$ - $100 fan controller but when you compare functions and features you realise you are purchasing a product that is at least 10x better than the rest.
Quote:


> Is Aquasuite 2015 usable/stable without encountering random German? How easy is it to setup automation based on the difference between two (hot and cold) temp sensors?


Extremely easy. The unit is supplied with 4 thermistor strip type temp sensors but it can support up to a total of 8 temp sensors. I suggest you purchase 1 or 2 of those thermistor screw in temp sensors which screw in via a G1/4 port - Just grab a Bitspower variant off PCCG or similar they are all pretty much the same. This way you can screw them into a spare port on a radiator etc and monitor your true water temp as well as ambient etc..
Quote:


> Are the temperature/telemetry LCD menus standard? Or are they custom?


Standard - Nothing 'extra' is required as far as the firmware/LCD and Aquasuite software is concerned. You can also make up your own custom Windows desktop interface displays when running the Aquasuite software.
Quote:


> How useful is the flow sensor? I already plan to have two temp sensors (one AC and one bitspower)


I find it very useful as it always allows me to monitor the overall internal health of my loop. If the flow ever changes on its own, then I know to start looking for an issue.

Without any form of flow indication you are running blind somewhat. Its not a necessity to run with a flowmeter but since they are not a huge cost it is a bit of a no brainer to run with one. Having one installed opens up a few extra options when monitoring and controlling your loop.

If you do opt for their Hi Flow - flow meter ensure that you grab a cable for it as it is not supplied with one. Check out a review here: http://martinsliquidlab.org/2012/01/21/aquacomputer-water-high-flow-sensor-meter/
Quote:


> Can I control molex LED strips with the A6? Or should I look into the new Fabwerk? PCCG currently dont stock the Fabwerk RGB strips.


Yes - However be careful whether the strips are common cathode or anode - refer to the Aquaero manual. The new Fabwerk allows for a higher output current to be able to drive more LEDs and has a few extra features as well.
Quote:


> PCCG only have a small range of AC gear, as of now. So no aquabus pumps or reservoirs yet.


You don't necessarily require Aquabus devices. Most PWM pumps will plug straight in - PWM D5's need a slight mod which you may have read about already.
Quote:


> I've never looked into Aquaero before as I've never seen it stocked in Aus before.


Yeh I know how you feel... When I built my latest PC back in July last year, my Aquaero items were pretty much all sourced from Frozen CPU.


----------



## testplsignore

Thanks Costas, I think you've convinced me









I think I'm going to go for an A6, two temps sensors and a flow sensor.

After reading the manual, I only have two more questions:

I'm planning to buy a D5 Vario pump (since the non-AC PWM pumps don't work properly), can I connect the tacho/RPM of the Vario to the flow or fan header of the A6 to read speed?

Also, can you go into more detail about controlling molex LED strips? The manual mentions LED output that can be configured with the alarm, which is exactly what I want to do.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *testplsignore*
> 
> Thanks Costas, I think you've convinced me
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I think I'm going to go for an A6, two temps sensors and a flow sensor.
> 
> After reading the manual, I only have two more questions:
> 
> I'm planning to buy a D5 Vario pump (since the non-AC PWM pumps don't work properly), *can I connect the tacho/RPM of the Vario to the flow or fan header of the A6 to read speed?
> 
> *Also, can you go into more detail about controlling molex LED strips? The manual mentions LED output that can be configured with the alarm, which is exactly what I want to do.


Connect it to a fan header to read the pump rpm . . . .

Though a few posts back, it looks like AC has a PWM version of the D5 that works with the A5 / A6.

Not sure on availability yet though.

On the led strips, I'll leave that to the guys who've got more experience there.

Darlene


----------



## sinnedone

Question just to be sure. Can the 2 pwm headers on the 5LT be used to control leds? I have about 50 single leds that I want to be able to dim/turn off via the software. They should the the normal 3-5v 20-30ma variety. I'd like to put them on one header and use the other header for a couple of led strips if they can be controlled that way. I figure power draw wise they should be well under the 1 amp spec of the pwn headers just never controlled voltage that way so not sure how well it would work with leds.


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sinnedone*
> 
> Question just to be sure. Can the 2 pwm headers on the 5LT be used to control leds? I have about 50 single leds that I want to be able to dim/turn off via the software. They should the the normal 3-5v 20-30ma variety. I'd like to put them on one header and use the other header for a couple of led strips if they can be controlled that way. I figure power draw wise they should be well under the 1 amp spec of the pwn headers just never controlled voltage that way so not sure how well it would work with leds.


The PWM headers put out 12V


----------



## skupples

got my farbwerk in last week
















ordered from aquatuning, just so I could get the gummies.

Kinda sad to see that they now have a minimum order though, which doesn't include tax or shipping.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sinnedone*
> 
> Question just to be sure. Can the 2 pwm headers on the 5LT be used to control leds? I have about 50 single leds that I want to be able to dim/turn off via the software. They should the the normal 3-5v 20-30ma variety. I'd like to put them on one header and use the other header for a couple of led strips if they can be controlled that way. I figure power draw wise they should be well under the 1 amp spec of the pwn headers just never controlled voltage that way so not sure how well it would work with leds.


I am using one channel in the AQ6 to control (via voltage) a led stripe. I described that in the chessboard build log one or two days ago and if you want any additional info or pictures I will gladly send your way


----------



## sinnedone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> The PWM headers put out 12V


So its fixed at that voltage?

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> I am using one channel in the AQ6 to control (via voltage) a led stripe. I described that in the chessboard build log one or two days ago and if you want any additional info or pictures I will gladly send your way


Yeah buddy any help will be appreciated.


----------



## Ragsters

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> got my farbwerk in last week
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ordered from aquatuning, just so I could get the gummies.
> 
> Kinda sad to see that they now have a minimum order though, which doesn't include tax or shipping.


Are you going to do a review of some sort?


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ragsters*
> 
> Are you going to do a review of some sort?


meh

I plugged it in, and it worked.

boom, pay me.


----------



## sinnedone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> meh
> 
> I plugged it in, and it worked.
> 
> boom, pay me.


lol

Best review ever.


----------



## Ragsters

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> meh
> 
> I plugged it in, and it worked.
> 
> boom, pay me.


I'm sorry, I didn't know you worked for Alphacool.


----------



## skupples




----------



## VSG

LOL


----------



## electro2u

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> got my farbwerk in last week
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ordered from aquatuning, just so I could get the gummies.
> 
> Kinda sad to see that they now have a minimum order though, which doesn't include tax or shipping.


I was surprised at the lack of communication from them recently. I'd think twice or 5 times about anything I ordered which I should do anyway.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> I was surprised at the lack of communication from them recently. I'd think twice or 5 times about anything I ordered which I should do anyway.


nothing a chargeback can't fix.


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sinnedone*
> 
> So its fixed at that voltage?


The headers pulse 12v yes. They can dim the leds by reducing the frequency of the pulse.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sinnedone*
> 
> Question just to be sure. Can the 2 pwm headers on the 5LT be used to control leds? I have about 50 single leds that I want to be able to dim/turn off via the software. They should the the normal 3-5v 20-30ma variety. I'd like to put them on one header and use the other header for a couple of led strips if they can be controlled that way. I figure power draw wise they should be well under the 1 amp spec of the pwn headers just never controlled voltage that way so not sure how well it would work with leds.


here we go mate:




I just use a solder to make this led stripe. One wire to the 12 v and the other for the ground. Then the other end goes to a 3 pin fan extension. Just remember that the central pin is the 12 v wire on the fan plug. The other end plug in to the Aquaero or any fan controller. Set the fan header to be voltage regulated and now you can dim the stripe from full (100%) to around 60% in my case. See more details on the Chessboard build


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> got my farbwerk in last week
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ordered from aquatuning, just so I could get the gummies.
> 
> Kinda sad to see that they now have a minimum order though, which doesn't include tax or shipping.


really i did not know that, how much is it ?

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sinnedone*
> 
> Question just to be sure. Can the 2 pwm headers on the 5LT be used to control leds? I have about 50 single leds that I want to be able to dim/turn off via the software. They should the the normal 3-5v 20-30ma variety. I'd like to put them on one header and use the other header for a couple of led strips if they can be controlled that way. I figure power draw wise they should be well under the 1 amp spec of the pwn headers just never controlled voltage that way so not sure how well it would work with leds.





Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *sinnedone*
> 
> Question just to be sure. Can the 2 pwm headers on the 5LT be used to control leds? I have about 50 single leds that I want to be able to dim/turn off via the software. They should the the normal 3-5v 20-30ma variety. I'd like to put them on one header and use the other header for a couple of led strips if they can be controlled that way. I figure power draw wise they should be well under the 1 amp spec of the pwn headers just never controlled voltage that way so not sure how well it would work with leds.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The PWM headers put out 12V
Click to expand...

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *sinnedone*
> 
> Question just to be sure. Can the 2 pwm headers on the 5LT be used to control leds? I have about 50 single leds that I want to be able to dim/turn off via the software. They should the the normal 3-5v 20-30ma variety. I'd like to put them on one header and use the other header for a couple of led strips if they can be controlled that way. I figure power draw wise they should be well under the 1 amp spec of the pwn headers just never controlled voltage that way so not sure how well it would work with leds.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> here we go mate:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I just use a solder to make this led stripe. One wire to the 12 v and the other for the ground. Then the other end goes to a 3 pin fan extension. Just remember that the central pin is the 12 v wire on the fan plug. The other end plug in to the Aquaero or any fan controller. Set the fan header to be voltage regulated and now you can dim the stripe from full (100%) to around 60% in my case. See more details on the Chessboard build
Click to expand...





yes you can but you either need to use 12vdc strips or put the resistor in for the leds !~


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> really i did not know that, how much is it ?
> 
> yes you can but you either need to use 12vdc strips or put the resistor in for the leds !~


for this, it was like $75 or $85.

probably only applies to their middleman services.


----------



## electro2u

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> nothing a chargeback can't fix.


I know you're not attacking me but I'm being attacked!








Seriously didn't know what else to do. My German is about as good as my Swahili and they weren't returning really simple emails.


----------



## sinnedone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> The headers pulse 12v yes. They can dim the leds by reducing the frequency of the pulse.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> here we go mate:
> 
> I just use a solder to make this led stripe. One wire to the 12 v and the other for the ground. Then the other end goes to a 3 pin fan extension. Just remember that the central pin is the 12 v wire on the fan plug. The other end plug in to the Aquaero or any fan controller. Set the fan header to be voltage regulated and now you can dim the stripe from full (100%) to around 60% in my case. See more details on the Chessboard build


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> really i did not know that, how much is it ?
> 
> yes you can but you either need to use 12vdc strips or put the resistor in for the leds !~


Thank all of you for the responses. It'll definitely help when I start experimenting with how to connect everything.


----------



## Dagamus NM

What options are there for leds that work with the farbwerk? Or more specifically, what products are you using or are planning to use with them?

I understand that they should be rated at 12vdc, but aside from that which LEDs are worth paying for?nsirry for the question, I just haven't given any serious thought to LEDs prior to the release of the farbwerk.

I am thinking I would like the kind that come in strips, I also would like to stick some on the little holes in the acrylic waterblocks I have.


----------



## skupples

I made it easy, went with the Aquacomputer LED strips branded w/ Farbwerk


----------



## Freaxy

Got my black faceplate for my A6 XT today. Finally, since it has been backordered since January 1st.
But I have to say, it looks so much better now


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dagamus NM*
> 
> What options are there for leds that work with the farbwerk? Or more specifically, what products are you using or are planning to use with them?
> 
> I understand that they should be rated at 12vdc, but aside from that which LEDs are worth paying for?nsirry for the question, I just haven't given any serious thought to LEDs prior to the release of the farbwerk.
> 
> I am thinking I would like the kind that come in strips, I also would like to stick some on the little holes in the acrylic waterblocks I have.


The new one ( on phone can't spell it ) it's mainly for led a trips

Generally worth led strip you don't have to worries about common anode/cathode add they only come in one kind.

As to regular leds you do have to verify they are the one you want.

Without going to in depth you would also need to locate true rgb round Leds while not impossible are hard to locate.

Assuming you want single color leds then you would need to install a resistor to get the right voltage ( it outputs 12vdc)

There are several easy ways to put the leds in the water blocks though (single color)


----------



## Dagamus NM

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> I made it easy, went with the Aquacomputer LED strips branded w/ Farbwerk


Well now I just feel silly, I will have to ask frozen if they are going to get them at the same time as the farbwerk units. I see Frozen has the 3mm round led's. I am assuming that is what goes in the EK blocks. A shame that the farbwerk cannot output the 3 or 5v needed.

Are there any parts of the aquaero 6 that could control these lower voltage leds? I know there are a couple of programmable outputs. I don't know if they require code to be written to run them, I would suppose for a common item like this would already have code written. Is my understanding correct or am I wrong on this??

So Mega, you state there are several ways to mount the single leds into the blocks. I would be a little hesitant to glue them in for fear of them looking poorly. What methods are there?


----------



## Mega Man

More talking about how to control them with aq.

Easiest way is
http://ledcalc.com/ ( or Google led calculator ) and user single color on the 12vpwm.


----------



## sinnedone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> More talking about how to control them with aq.
> 
> Easiest way is
> http://ledcalc.com/ ( or Google led calculator ) and user single color on the 12vpwm.


That would work on the 2 12v pwm pins on the 5 LT as well correct?


----------



## Mega Man

correct


----------



## electro2u

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dagamus NM*
> 
> Well now I just feel silly, I will have to ask frozen if they are going to get them at the same time as the farbwerk units. I see Frozen has the 3mm round led's. I am assuming that is what goes in the EK blocks. A shame that the farbwerk cannot output the 3 or 5v needed.
> 
> Are there any parts of the aquaero 6 that could control these lower voltage leds? I know there are a couple of programmable outputs. I don't know if they require code to be written to run them, I would suppose for a common item like this would already have code written. Is my understanding correct or am I wrong on this??
> 
> So Mega, you state there are several ways to mount the single leds into the blocks. I would be a little hesitant to glue them in for fear of them looking poorly. What methods are there?


Bitspower x-station led splitter runs a row of 10 5v for single leds and 10 12v for strips.

The single leds slide snugly into the mounting holes, no need for any further modification.


----------



## Dagamus NM

Well it looks like I will be waiting for the AQC strips to come in and I will decide whether or not to go with the bits power unit or figure out cabling to the aquaero.

Another noob question that I have not been able to find an answer for, I got the aquaero 6 xt with the remote a couple months ago, then I went to get a second aquaero for a different computer but only the 6 pro was available. Can I use the remote from the xt on the pro? When I read the listings for the remote it says it works on both the 5 xt and 5 pro. I assume that the listings for the remote were created prior to the release of the 6 models.

I got the pro installed in the computer it goes in, I will clean up wiring and turn it on later, need to go to work. I had been waiting on a way to get more internal usb. I went with the NZXT unit, bought three on Amazon for $17 each. Great invention!!


----------



## Mega Man

I Love the nzxt usb

I have 3-4

As to the remote you are correct.

We Can helpwith wiring too if needed


----------



## Gabrielzm

Folks, anyone else is using x99 plataform along with any Aquaero connected via USB? Anyone else experiencing boot hang up while windows is loading? I am using x99 and it is clear is related to the Aquaero. Went thorough several windows installs and usb ports. Aquacomputer was willing to look at this but since I was the only one to reply they assume was an isolated problem. How many here are using the x99 plataform along with Aquaero? @snef I known yours is not connected via USB but would it be possible for you to make a small test and connect it to USB and boot 4 or 5 times in windows? Usually after a couple of tries the windows boot freezes....


----------



## snef

my Aquaero 5 is connected to USB, I just didn't install Aquasuite (because I saw your issue)
I set it by the remote and front screen if I need it but it keep previous settings from Maximus Vi formula
I use exact same settings


----------



## Romir

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Folks, anyone else is using x99 plataform along with any Aquaero connected via USB? Anyone else experiencing boot hang up while windows is loading? I am using x99 and it is clear is related to the Aquaero. Went thorough several windows installs and usb ports. Aquacomputer was willing to look at this but since I was the only one to reply they assume was an isolated problem. How many here are using the x99 plataform along with Aquaero? @snef I known yours is not connected via USB but would it be possible for you to make a small test and connect it to USB and boot 4 or 5 times in windows? Usually after a couple of tries the windows boot freezes....


I got the PM from Shoggy a month ago but I've been busy and haven't used my gaming pc beyond powering it up to download Grim Fandango and Life is Strange.

I actually came here to see if the Asus X99 Deluxe bios 1305 released on monday fixed my usb issues. I updated today and have restarted/suspended 20+ times without issue. I was using the november 1103 bios before that, I missed the bios release that came out last month. (Prior to updating my system would sometimes get stuck booting before Windows and when waking from suspend my keyboard wouldn't always work.)

Hardware:
aquaero 6 pro, internal usb
asus x99 deluxe
windows 8.1 pro
other usb devices: naga hex, logitech g710+, and 360 wireless adapter


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Romir*
> 
> I got the PM from Shoggy a month ago but I've been busy and haven't used my gaming pc beyond powering it up to download Grim Fandango and Life is Strange.
> 
> I actually came here to see if the Asus X99 Deluxe bios 1305 released on monday fixed my usb issues. I updated today and have restarted/suspended 20+ times without issue. I was using the november 1103 bios before that, I missed the bios release that came out last month. (Prior to updating my system would sometimes get stuck booting before Windows and when waking from suspend my keyboard wouldn't always work.)
> 
> Hardware:
> aquaero 6 pro, internal usb
> asus x99 deluxe
> windows 8.1 pro
> other usb devices: naga hex, logitech g710+, and 360 wireless adapter


Well in my case still have problems. I have one aq 6 and one aq 5 lt on the same system. aq6 xt is running from a USB 3 to USB 2 adapter and aq 5 lt is running from an external usb 2 adapter. That seems to ameliorate the problem but still some hang ups from time to time. Running latest BIOS to no avail and win 7 64 ultimate.


----------



## Piospi

aqua.png 1066k .png file
Hello guys,

I have a problem with my aquaero 6 PRO. Doesn't fit into my case - Obsidian 800D :/

It seems to me that there are handles are very protrude.
Between the handle and the PCB is millimeter break.

I'm disappointed because I didn't expect problems with the installation.

I don't know what to do: /

Epic quality...


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Piospi*
> 
> aqua.png 1066k .png file
> Hello guys,
> 
> I have a problem with my aquaero 6 PRO. Doesn't fit into my case - Obsidian 800D :/
> 
> It seems to me that there are handles are very protrude.
> Between the handle and the PCB is millimeter break.
> 
> I'm disappointed because I didn't expect problems with the installation.
> 
> I don't know what to do: /
> 
> Epic quality...


The same problem exits with some other cases as well. . . . . 6XTs wouldn't fit my Caselabs out of the box

The best solution is to remove the faceplate, which frees up the sides to work on.

Once the sides are off, I found that making the 90 degree bend sharper by putting them in a vise and careful use of a hammer to get them a little more than 90 degrees, and then a screw driver to lever them back a little is the place to start.

Once you have them with a crisp 90 degree bend, then you need to dremel the screw holes so that they are slots.

With sharper bends, and slots to let the sides push in closer to the PCB, you'll be good to go.

The downside, is that it requires tools and some experience, and possibly someone to help translate.

I'd PM Shoggy first to see if they still have some side brackets that are already narrower than stock, if you don't have a dremel.

Darlene


----------



## Piospi

Thank you Darlene for the answer.

Unfortunately I don't have a dremel








With your counsel I wrote to Shoggy and support









Regards


----------



## testplsignore

Question:

Is it ok to run a D5 vario on a fan output of the A6?

I've read that the D5 vario uses about 22W, and the A6 is capable of 30W.

AC also make a cable that they used in the demo video running a D5
http://shop.aquacomputer.de/product_info.php?language=en&products_id=2345

I'm just not sure how the D5 likes being controlled by voltage instead of the vario potentiometer on the back.


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *testplsignore*
> 
> Question:
> 
> Is it ok to run a D5 vario on a fan output of the A6?
> 
> I've read that the D5 vario uses about 22W, and the A6 is capable of 30W.
> 
> AC also make a cable that they used in the demo video running a D5
> http://shop.aquacomputer.de/product_info.php?language=en&products_id=2345
> 
> I'm just not sure how the D5 likes being controlled by voltage instead of the vario potentiometer on the back.


It will but you really dint want to vary speed of pumps!! Causes more noise amd no real benifit!!


----------



## ratzofftoya

Does anyone know if 6XTs and the Poweradjust faceplates still have trouble fitting into Caselabs cases flex bays, particularly the STH10? Do I need the nonconforming short mount?


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ratzofftoya*
> 
> Does anyone know if 6XTs and the Poweradjust faceplates still have trouble fitting into Caselabs cases flex bays, particularly the STH10? Do I need the nonconforming short mount?


Maybe maybe not depends on your luck! I would get a set just in case


----------



## Panther Al

Question for those that might know-

Just ordered an S8 case, and already have a pair of Aquadrive X4's on hand for a new build. Looking at putting a 2U Bay Res/Pump above those, which would leave me one slot left. Question is, With a Rad on the roof, will there be room for an Aquaro?


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Panther Al*
> 
> Question for those that might know-
> 
> Just ordered an S8 case, and already have a pair of Aquadrive X4's on hand for a new build. Looking at putting a 2U Bay Res/Pump above those, which would leave me one slot left. Question is, With a Rad on the roof, will there be room for an Aquaro?


Yes Mate. I use a 480 mm rad on top along with the Aquaero 6 xt. Take a look on the chessboard pictures to have an idea of it.

*Ops. My bad. It is a s8 not a sma8....I should take some rest I guess...







* @fast_fate might known this.


----------



## ratzofftoya

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> Maybe maybe not depends on your luck! I would get a set just in case


How is that possible? Variability in Aquaero manufacturing? Should I then get both the nonconforming and regular mounts? Or is it possible to put it in without mounting hardware?


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ratzofftoya*
> 
> How is that possible? Variability in Aquaero manufacturing? Should I then get both the nonconforming and regular mounts? Or is it possible to put it in without mounting hardware?


The nonconforming mounts will work for regular also and it will make easier to mount them!


----------



## sinnedone

Quick couple of questions for those in the know.









The MPS 400 has a built in temperature sensor correct?

When installed(MPS 400), the Aquabus cable needs to be connected to a 5 LT to both read flow/temp and supply power to the MPS 400? (no need to plug in the usb or temp cable?)

Is the aquabus cable included with the MPS 400?

Just trying to figure some things out to get everything I need. Thanks









OH, Does anyone know if that RGB LED amp board is still available? (when I remember the name I'll edit post)


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Piospi*
> 
> aqua.png 1066k .png file
> Hello guys,
> 
> I have a problem with my aquaero 6 PRO. Doesn't fit into my case - Obsidian 800D :/
> 
> It seems to me that there are handles are very protrude.
> Between the handle and the PCB is millimeter break.
> 
> I'm disappointed because I didn't expect problems with the installation.
> 
> I don't know what to do: /
> 
> Epic quality...


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sinnedone*
> 
> Quick couple of questions for those in the know.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The MPS 400 has a built in temperature sensor correct?
> 
> When installed(MPS 400), the Aquabus cable needs to be connected to a 5 LT to both read flow/temp and supply power to the MPS 400? (no need to plug in the usb or temp cable?)
> 
> Is the aquabus cable included with the MPS 400?
> 
> Just trying to figure some things out to get everything I need. Thanks
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> OH, Does anyone know if that RGB LED amp board is still available? (when I remember the name I'll edit post)


You mean the Jeeks amp board?

With the Farbwerk available, it's pretty obsolete.

D.


----------



## sinnedone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> You mean the Jeeks amp board?
> 
> With the Farbwerk available, it's pretty obsolete.
> 
> D.


Doesn't appear to be available yet though.

Not to mention they're probably going to nickel and dime you for every connection on it and accesories that should come with it but don't as I'm starting to find out.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sinnedone*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> You mean the Jeeks amp board?
> 
> With the Farbwerk available, it's pretty obsolete.
> 
> D.
> 
> 
> 
> Doesn't appear to be available yet though.
> 
> Not to mention they're probably going to nickel and dime you for every connection on it and accesories that should come with it but don't as I'm starting to find out.
Click to expand...

PPCs got 10 of the basic USB/aquabus ones, and 10 of the Bluetooth ones.

The USB ones sold out pretty quick, but some Bluetooth ones are still in stock.

The dumbazzs only got 10 cables for 20 boards . . . should have gotten at least 3 cables per board, since the connector is not a common one.

You can get their LED strips, but they work fine with most common 10mm wide strips, so you can get whatever length you need, or buy a 5m reel and make custom lengths to fit your needs.

Just don't buy LED strips from Phobya or bitfenix, or you'll rue the day you did for sure.

I got the RGB ones for the Diva's Dementia build baseplate from Superbrite LEDs.

https://www.superbrightleds.com/moreinfo/rgb-bars-and-strips/led-light-strips-with-multi-color-leds-led-tape-light-with-18-smdsft-3-chip-rgb-smd-led-5050-with-lc4-connector/1470/





I tried hooking a Farby to several different LED strips for testing and to see how it worked in aquasuite, and I was pretty impressed . . . especially for it being such a little thing. That's 3m of strip on the white light bar, and the Farby doesn't feel even a little warm to the touch, so it has a lot of capability.



I expect it should be back in stock reasonably soon.

Darlene


----------



## Dagamus NM

Hi Darlene, in the last picture you just posted it appears that you have a fan mounted on a flexible arm. Do you know what that flexible thing is called or where you got it from? I need some of those for work.


----------



## sinnedone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> PPCs got 10 of the basic USB/aquabus ones, and 10 of the Bluetooth ones.
> 
> The USB ones sold out pretty quick, but some Bluetooth ones are still in stock.
> 
> The dumbazzs only got 10 cables for 20 boards . . . should have gotten at least 3 cables per board, *since the connector is not a common one*.
> 
> You can get their LED strips, but they work fine with most common 10mm wide strips, so you can get whatever length you need, or buy a 5m reel and make custom lengths to fit your needs.
> 
> Just don't buy LED strips from Phobya or bitfenix, or you'll rue the day you did for sure.
> 
> I got the RGB ones for the Diva's Dementia build baseplate from Superbrite LEDs.
> 
> https://www.superbrightleds.com/moreinfo/rgb-bars-and-strips/led-light-strips-with-multi-color-leds-led-tape-light-with-18-smdsft-3-chip-rgb-smd-led-5050-with-lc4-connector/1470/
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I tried hooking a Farby to several different LED strips for testing and to see how it worked in aquasuite, and I was pretty impressed . . . especially for it being such a little thing. That's 3m of strip on the white light bar, and the Farby doesn't feel even a little warm to the touch, so it has a lot of capability.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I expect it should be back in stock reasonably soon.
> 
> Darlene


Thank you for the info. That non common connector looks like it might be a pain though.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Piospi*
> 
> aqua.png 1066k .png file
> Hello guys,
> 
> I have a problem with my aquaero 6 PRO. Doesn't fit into my case - Obsidian 800D :/
> 
> It seems to me that there are handles are very protrude.
> Between the handle and the PCB is millimeter break.
> 
> I'm disappointed because I didn't expect problems with the installation.
> 
> I don't know what to do: /
> 
> Epic quality...


smeone probably already answered, but it's the case, not the head unit.

look in the drive bays, you will see they have little slips. You need to cut those slips down. I just hit them w/ a razor blade & it was enough to get it to fit.

Seems 800/900D drive bays are just poorly designed, as I had multiple issues with devices. The only thing that fit was my optical drive from 1985.

wait, let me ask you... The face itself doesn't fit? OR it won't go in all the way? You'll likely experience both issues, as most of the drive bay slots have those stupid plastic slips, at least they did on the first gen.


----------



## fast_fate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Panther Al*
> 
> Question for those that might know-
> 
> Just ordered an S8 case, and already have a pair of Aquadrive X4's on hand for a new build. Looking at putting a 2U Bay Res/Pump above those, which would leave me one slot left. Question is, With a Rad on the roof, will there be room for an Aquaro?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Yes Mate. I use a 480 mm rad on top along with the Aquaero 6 xt. Take a look on the chessboard pictures to have an idea of it.
> 
> *Ops. My bad. It is a s8 not a sma8....I should take some rest I guess...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> * @fast_fate might known this.


Hey Panther,
It would very much be dependent on the length on the end tank (non port end) and possibly even the thickness of the rad.
the inlet / outlet ports would have to be at the rear of the case.

It would be a very tight fit for the actual Aquaero unit, but it would squeeze in.
I measure a gap of 45mm from inside of chassis to the tank end of a UT60 (bleeded port end)
I get an approximate measure of 35mm that the Aquaero sticks out when fitted (where all the connections are)

So... that would leave just 10mm for you cables and connection plugs.

It's probably doable, but can't say that with 100% certainty it will be workable
Even though the Aquaero does fit, the cabling would be a challenge.

If it was my only option I would try it, but I wouldn't go as far as to recommend it.
I just think not enough space.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *sinnedone*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> You mean the Jeeks amp board?
> 
> With the Farbwerk available, it's pretty obsolete.
> 
> D.
> 
> 
> 
> Doesn't appear to be available yet though.
> 
> Not to mention they're probably going to nickel and dime you for every connection on it and accesories that should come with it but don't as I'm starting to find out.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> PPCs got 10 of the basic USB/aquabus ones, and 10 of the Bluetooth ones.
> 
> The USB ones sold out pretty quick, but some Bluetooth ones are still in stock.
> 
> The dumbazzs only got 10 cables for 20 boards . . . should have gotten at least 3 cables per board, since the connector is not a common one.
> 
> You can get their LED strips, but they work fine with most common 10mm wide strips, so you can get whatever length you need, or buy a 5m reel and make custom lengths to fit your needs.
> 
> Just don't buy LED strips from Phobya or bitfenix, or you'll rue the day you did for sure.
> 
> I got the RGB ones for the Diva's Dementia build baseplate from Superbrite LEDs.
> 
> https://www.superbrightleds.com/moreinfo/rgb-bars-and-strips/led-light-strips-with-multi-color-leds-led-tape-light-with-18-smdsft-3-chip-rgb-smd-led-5050-with-lc4-connector/1470/
> 
> I tried hooking a Farby to several different LED strips for testing and to see how it worked in aquasuite, and I was pretty impressed . . . especially for it being such a little thing. That's 3m of strip on the white light bar, and the Farby doesn't feel even a little warm to the touch, so it has a lot of capability.
> 
> I expect it should be back in stock reasonably soon.
> 
> Darlene
Click to expand...

i may or may not of got 4 of the 10 >.>


not that i want to take away from acs sales but pretty sure you can get the connectors off of ebay, they look the same although i have not measured them >.>

search RGB connector and led strip connector and other variants

i still like my jeaks though for other reasons


----------



## IT Diva

I was only able to get 2 of the cables, but I also did snag 2 of the Farbys.

The connections on the PCB for the cables are the same as machined pin type IC chip sockets.

The wire gage used in the cables is dreadfully thin . . . I'm betting 30 gage, not bigger than 28 at best.

Probably OK for most things, but inadequate for a couple meters or more of high density strip.

I found that cutting up a machine pin IC socket and soldering the wires into the female side makes the perfect DIY connector for custom cabling. . . . so there is an easy enough way around the AC cables if you have the soldering skills.

If you're already using a Jeaks amp, especially in an existing build, likely running Aquasuite 2014 and firmware 1036 on your Aquaero, it makes sense to keep it as is, if you're happy with it, since you'll loose your setup going to Aquasuite 2015 and the new firmware which you need to do for the Farby.

A major PITA that's probably not worth the effort.

For a new build where you don't already have settings for everything in Aquasuite and on the Aquaero, the Farby makes more sense, since you can just install the newest Aquasuite and upgrade the firmware at the get go.

Darlene


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dagamus NM*
> 
> Hi Darlene, in the last picture you just posted it appears that you have a fan mounted on a flexible arm. Do you know what that flexible thing is called or where you got it from? I need some of those for work.


I believe it's a DimasTech FlexFan mount attached to a DimasTech bench that it came with. I'm not sure if they are sold anywhere separately any more.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Dagamus NM*
> 
> Hi Darlene, in the last picture you just posted it appears that you have a fan mounted on a flexible arm. Do you know what that flexible thing is called or where you got it from? I need some of those for work.
> 
> 
> 
> *I believe it's a DimasTech FlexFan mount attached to a DimasTech bench that it came with*. I'm not sure if they are sold anywhere separately any more.
Click to expand...

That's exactly what it is and I haven't seen them as a stand alone item either.

Maybe see if it's listed as an accessory item available from Dimastech.

Darlene


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Dimastech used to sell them as an accessory but for a long while now they have been listed as 'Out of production'. There is a link where you can 'request information' though.

http://shop.dimastech.it/en/dimastech-flexfan120-black-v10

Perhaps one of their retailers/resellers still has some of them.


----------



## sinnedone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> i may or may not of got 4 of the 10 >.>


LOL lots of things to light up huh.









Hopefully they come back in Stock soon as I really need to finish my current build. Just down to wiring and sleeving.


----------



## Dagamus NM

Thank you all. We use them in radiology to hold a measurement marker close to a patient so that our calibration software can scale the amount of magnification in an image so that we can custom make implants to completely fill bone canals without having to remove bone. My techs are great at breaking these things and I would rather rebuild them than pay the extortion prices on them through our medical vendors.


----------



## GBorrelli

I'm having trouble controlling my EK-DDC 3.2 PWM via the Aquaero 6. I've tried power, speed, and PWM control. None of which work. Currently the pump gets power from a 4-pin molex and only has sensor and PWM connected to the Aquaero. Can I re-qire the DDC's power and ground to the Aquaero via the same 4-pin PWM connector?


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GBorrelli*
> 
> I'm having trouble controlling my EK-DDC 3.2 PWM via the Aquaero 6. I've tried power, speed, and PWM control. None of which work. Currently the pump gets power from a 4-pin molex and only has sensor and PWM connected to the Aquaero. Can I re-qire the DDC's power and ground to the Aquaero via the same 4-pin PWM connector?


You'd be better to try the Diva Mod to the 4 pin connector than to voltage control the pump.

Sounds like the PWM line has no internal pullup resistor.

If you have a multimeter, with the pump running, check for voltage on the PWM wire with it not connected to the A6.

If it's not 5V, then the pump has no internal pullup.

Darlene


----------



## GBorrelli

Is the Diva Mod http://www.overclock.net/t/1473190/pwm-d5-pump/10#post_21971680 ?


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GBorrelli*
> 
> Is the Diva Mod http://www.overclock.net/t/1473190/pwm-d5-pump/10#post_21971680 ?


That's it . . .

But check for 5V on the PWM wire with the pump running and the 4 pin connector not connected to the Aquaero if you can, to verify the lack of internal pullup.

Darlene


----------



## GBorrelli

Will do... once I locate my DMM.


----------



## skupples

I just ordered mine through Aqua Tuning. It only took a few days to show up, the only issue was their minimum charge. I haven't gone back to look, but I would guess that it only applies to their middleman services.

They also shipped it inside a Phobya branded box, was kinda funny. I hope the box doesn't leach bad into my farb.


----------



## josetortola

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GBorrelli*
> 
> I'm having trouble controlling my EK-DDC 3.2 PWM via the Aquaero 6. I've tried power, speed, and PWM control. None of which work. Currently the pump gets power from a 4-pin molex and only has sensor and PWM connected to the Aquaero. Can I re-qire the DDC's power and ground to the Aquaero via the same 4-pin PWM connector?


I have this pump and I can control it with Aquaero 6. PWM and RPM cables connected to Aquaero, power from molex. And it can control it configuring the fan header used for the pump as "PWM controlled".

The only issue is that this PWM pump only responds from 40% to 60% of Aquaero's PWM power output, more or less. I mean that the pump has its minimum at Aquaero's 40% and its maximum at Aquaero's 60%. If try to regulate the pump with the slider below 40% or above 60%, the pump will not respond.

If you can't control that pump, RMA, something must be defective.


----------



## Costas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *josetortola*
> 
> The only issue is that this PWM pump only responds from 40% to 60% of Aquaero's PWM power output, more or less. I mean that the pump has its minimum at Aquaero's 40% and its maximum at Aquaero's 60%. If try to regulate the pump with the slider below 40% or above 60%, the pump will not respond.
> .


This is entirely normal for these pump - Mainly due to the way they have implemented PWM sensing within the pump.
You should actually have control from approx 25% - 30% PWM drive (or thereabouts) for min RPM and up to 60% -70% for max RPM on the pump.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *josetortola*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *GBorrelli*
> 
> I'm having trouble controlling my EK-DDC 3.2 PWM via the Aquaero 6. I've tried power, speed, and PWM control. None of which work. Currently the pump gets power from a 4-pin molex and only has sensor and PWM connected to the Aquaero. Can I re-qire the DDC's power and ground to the Aquaero via the same 4-pin PWM connector?
> 
> 
> 
> I have this pump and I can control it with Aquaero 6. PWM and RPM cables connected to Aquaero, power from molex. And it can control it configuring the fan header used for the pump as "PWM controlled".
> 
> The only issue is that this PWM pump only responds from 40% to 60% of Aquaero's PWM power output, more or less. I mean that the pump has its minimum at Aquaero's 40% and its maximum at Aquaero's 60%. If try to regulate the pump with the slider below 40% or above 60%, the pump will not respond.
> 
> If you can't control that pump, RMA, something must be defective.
Click to expand...

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Costas*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *josetortola*
> 
> The only issue is that this PWM pump only responds from 40% to 60% of Aquaero's PWM power output, more or less. I mean that the pump has its minimum at Aquaero's 40% and its maximum at Aquaero's 60%. If try to regulate the pump with the slider below 40% or above 60%, the pump will not respond.
> .
> 
> 
> 
> This is entirely normal for these pump - Mainly due to the way they have implemented PWM sensing within the pump.
> You should actually have control from approx 25% - 30% PWM drive (or thereabouts) for min RPM and up to 60% -70% for max RPM on the pump.
Click to expand...

Pumps and fans seem to work in significantly different ranges and over different spans of PWM control.

That's actually not terribly far from the range of control for the other PWM pumps, D5 and 35X, though noticeably narrower.

The D5 and 35X seem to like about 15 to 20% for min rpm, and about 65 to 80% for max rpm

To fine tune Auasuite for your pump's characteristics;

Set hold minimum power and set it at the lower end of the pump's effective range, and set the max at the top of the pump's effective range, and then the slider from min to max will control between those settings so the whole span of slider movement controls the pump speed.

D.


----------



## josetortola

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> To fine tune Auasuite for your pump's characteristics;
> 
> Set hold minimum power and set it at the lower end of the pump's effective range, and set the max at the top of the pump's effective range, and then the slider from min to max will control between those settings so the whole span of slider movement controls the pump speed.


That's what I did. And after that, the pump is totally functional with Aquaero 6.

I hope that also works for @GBorrelli. If not, something needs a RMA.


----------



## GBorrelli

I feel stupid now... that worked like a charm. Min RPM is about 28% and max is 70%. Now I just need to figure out how to integrate CPU temp from RealTemp or Hardware Monitor or some other CPU temp software. I'm currently running my controllers from the thermocouples I placed in the rads which gets the job done, but it's less than optimal.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sinnedone*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> i may or may not of got 4 of the 10 >.>
> 
> 
> 
> LOL lots of things to light up huh.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hopefully they come back in Stock soon as I really need to finish my current build. Just down to wiring and sleeving.
Click to expand...

Tbh just several builds


----------



## Roch

I recently purchased an Aquaero LT5 and have some questions as I can't seem to work it out myself. My setup is very simple, I'm using a Corsair H100i for the CPU and three intake and one exhaust fan. I'm controlling the LT5 via AIDA64 and have set up a curve controller for the CPU and another for the GPUs.

The cpu curved controller works great, it's adjusting the 2 Gentle Typhoons i'm running on the H100i just as I want, i'm using a splitter to one of the 3 pin headers on the LT. The GPU curve however, has been more of a head scratcher for me. I used 3 Noiseblocker Multiframe S-Series M12-P Fans (PWM) via an Akasa PWM Splitter for the three intakes and put those on the PWM header on the LT5. when I do this they never change speed via the curve controller? If I select PWM they run full speed, If I lower the voltage they make a hideous chirpy noise. if I select Power or speed control they stay running at 50%. If I take them off the splitter they seem to do the same thing.

At the moment i've swapped them for 2 140mm Noiseblocker PK3s (3 pin) and they work fine although they drone at low rpm and are unbearable at full tilt. Am I doing something wrong here or are the fans just not compatible? If so, could you recommend some reasonably quiet and powerful fans for it? I'm running SLI and am struggling to keep the temps down.


----------



## Squeaks5635

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fast_fate*
> 
> Hey Panther,
> It would very much be dependent on the length on the end tank (non port end) and possibly even the thickness of the rad.
> the inlet / outlet ports would have to be at the rear of the case.
> 
> It would be a very tight fit for the actual Aquaero unit, but it would squeeze in.
> I measure a gap of 45mm from inside of chassis to the tank end of a UT60 (bleeded port end)
> I get an approximate measure of 35mm that the Aquaero sticks out when fitted (where all the connections are)
> 
> So... that would leave just 10mm for you cables and connection plugs.
> 
> It's probably doable, but can't say that with 100% certainty it will be workable
> Even though the Aquaero does fit, the cabling would be a challenge.
> 
> If it was my only option I would try it, but I wouldn't go as far as to recommend it.
> I just think not enough space.


@Panther Al

I have an S8 with the A6 in the top slot with a 360 PE radiator with the inlets and outlets to the rear of the case. It is very tight fit and quite a pain to add cables, The temp sensor section is just about impossible, without taking the A6 out to connect it. It works and it keeps stuff out of the way but it will take extra time, and small hands to get it set up.


----------



## Panther Al

Fast_Fate, Squeaks5635 -

Thanks for the answers!









As soon as my S8 Arrives I will be sorting out the fitment and see what can be done, as for once, I am finding the phrase 'too small' is aplicable to something from CaseLabs. Thanks for you help!


----------



## Dagamus NM

Question regarding the D5 PWM pumps and the aquaero. Sorry if I missed it, but is the need for the Diva mod a function of the brand of D5 pump, motherboard, Aquaero, or random chance? I wouldn't mind having to do the mod, but would like to know what I am getting into as there are so many things to deal with on start-up of a fresh build that it can be overwhelming.

A second question regarding the airplex modularity system. I have a 420 unit with the eheim 600 pump, res, and added the flow meter. I installed the flow meter and am unsure of what to do with the three pin connector.

There are three three-pin headers on the front of the unit, fan, rpm and the flow/aquabus headers. If I connect the flow meter to flow then I cannot connect to the aquaero via aquabus, but usb is still an option.

So if I connect the AMS to the AQ6 via aquabus then what do I do with the flow meter? Connect it to the flow header of the AQ6 too?


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dagamus NM*
> 
> Question regarding the D5 PWM pumps and the aquaero. Sorry if I missed it, but is the need for the Diva mod a function of the brand of D5 pump, motherboard, Aquaero, or random chance? I wouldn't mind having to do the mod, but would like to know what I am getting into as there are so many things to deal with on start-up of a fresh build that it can be overwhelming.
> 
> A second question regarding the airplex modularity system. I have a 420 unit with the eheim 600 pump, res, and added the flow meter. I installed the flow meter and am unsure of what to do with the three pin connector.
> 
> There are three three-pin headers on the front of the unit, fan, rpm and the flow/aquabus headers. If I connect the flow meter to flow then I cannot connect to the aquaero via aquabus, but usb is still an option.
> 
> So if I connect the AMS to the AQ6 via aquabus then what do I do with the flow meter? Connect it to the flow header of the AQ6 too?


Aquacomputer now sells a PWM D5 that is modified to work properly with the Aquaero. For the others, its not a brand thing.

http://shop.aquacomputer.de/product_info.php?products_id=3255


----------



## sinnedone

I have a quick question about the load, fan speed, and temperature relation on the 5LT.

Say I have a .75 amp load (according to aquasuite) on one of the 4 fan headers, and a 1.25amp load on another. Now if I were to run both at say 50% fan speed (so say 6 volts) would the fan header with the higher amperage load run the voltage regulator on the board cooler?


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sinnedone*
> 
> I have a quick question about the load, fan speed, and temperature relation on the 5LT.
> 
> Say I have a .75 amp load (according to aquasuite) on one of the 4 fan headers, and a 1.25amp load on another. Now if I were to run both at say 50% fan speed (so say 6 volts) would the fan header with the higher amperage load run the voltage regulator on the board cooler?


The higher the amperage load the more watts the controller has to get rid of as heat.


----------



## Dagamus NM

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> Aquacomputer now sells a PWM D5 that is modified to work properly with the Aquaero. For the others, its not a brand thing.
> 
> http://shop.aquacomputer.de/product_info.php?products_id=3255


I wonder why the rest of the controls are absent on this new pump?

I saw that these were released just after buying four of these mid January http://www.frozencpu.com/products/17488/ex-pmp-211/Aquacomputer_D5_Pump_Motor_w_USB_and_Aquabus_Interface_41093.html?tl=c107s153b200

So with the pumps I bought, are they then voltage controlled or PWM via the aquabus high and needing the diva mod? Sorry, but now I am perplexed as to how I should move forward.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dagamus NM*
> 
> I wonder why the rest of the controls are absent on this new pump?
> 
> I saw that these were released just after buying four of these mid January http://www.frozencpu.com/products/17488/ex-pmp-211/Aquacomputer_D5_Pump_Motor_w_USB_and_Aquabus_Interface_41093.html?tl=c107s153b200
> 
> So with the pumps I bought, are they then voltage controlled or PWM via the aquabus high and needing the diva mod? Sorry, but now I am perplexed as to how I should move forward.


Those will be controlled via Aquabus or via USB. No need to Diva mode for that model. The diva mode is necessary only to the PWM model (all of those except the new released Aquacomputer PWM model). If you connect via Aquabus you will need the splitter cable and daisy chain it to have 4 available ports (if you are using 4 pumps). Just remember to attribute different bus number to each of them (12, 13, 14, 15 or something like that). If you connect via USB no need to cable or different bus number to each pump.


----------



## Turbz

I bought an NZXT internal USB expander so I can have a single USB cable run to the motherboard, and hopefully hang all USB connections for an Aquaero 6, two AC D5 pumps and an AC flow meter off it.

This is the device, I'm sure most of you are familiar with it:



The USB cables that came with every AC device are half the height of the USB pinouts so my question is can I:

A) Connect two AC USB devices to one set of pins. allowing for up to six AC USB devices to be connected

B) Connect one AC USB device per set of pins, allowing for up to three AC USB devices to be connected.

Hope that makes sense, I can take pictures of the two scenarios if I'm not being clear enough. If the answer is B, I suppose I could find or build adapters to make use of the two external usb sockets.


----------



## Dagamus NM

You can connect six. Half of them will have double ground pins and the others will not. I don't think it matters which devices you connect to which set of pins 4 vs 5


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Turbz*
> 
> I bought an NZXT internal USB expander so I can have a single USB cable run to the motherboard, and hopefully hang all USB connections for an Aquaero 6, two AC D5 pumps and an AC flow meter off it.
> 
> This is the device, I'm sure most of you are familiar with it:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The USB cables that came with every AC device are half the height of the USB pinouts so my question is can I:
> 
> A) Connect two AC USB devices to one set of pins. allowing for up to six AC USB devices to be connected
> 
> B) Connect one AC USB device per set of pins, allowing for up to three AC USB devices to be connected.
> 
> Hope that makes sense, I can take pictures of the two scenarios if I'm not being clear enough. If the answer is B, I suppose I could find or build adapters to make use of the two external usb sockets.


*A*. You can connect 6 Aquacomputer devices to the nzxt hub. I am using that configuration right now with 4 d5 USB and 2 MPS 400 hook to it.


----------



## Turbz

thanks guys, that's great news.


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dagamus NM*
> 
> I wonder why the rest of the controls are absent on this new pump?
> 
> I saw that these were released just after buying four of these mid January http://www.frozencpu.com/products/17488/ex-pmp-211/Aquacomputer_D5_Pump_Motor_w_USB_and_Aquabus_Interface_41093.html?tl=c107s153b200
> 
> So with the pumps I bought, are they then voltage controlled or PWM via the aquabus high and needing the diva mod? Sorry, but now I am perplexed as to how I should move forward.


Its actually neither of those. The USB pump is just a D5 vario with an electronic version of the little dial. So they aren't PWM controlled models and nor is voltage used. All that is happening is the Aquaero or the pump itself is turning the speed dial in a virtual sense.
This subject can get super detailed and confusing due to the way the pump electronics of all D5's work but this is the main difference that matters.


----------



## Panther Al

If I could ask some really noob questions...

Right, have the S8 on the way, and thanks to you all, I know I can use the Aquaero. For the fans, of which I plan 18, do I need to get PWM, or does the Aq. control fan speeds via voltage, which means I can get normal fans? I figured all I need is the Aquaero, since all I will have hooked up to it is the 18 and the D5 pump.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Panther Al*
> 
> If I could ask some really noob questions...
> 
> Right, have the S8 on the way, and thanks to you all, I know I can use the Aquaero. For the fans, of which I plan 18, do I need to get PWM, or does the Aq. control fan speeds via voltage, which means I can get normal fans? I figured all I need is the Aquaero, since all I will have hooked up to it is the 18 and the D5 pump.


both versions (AQ 5 and AQ6) can control pwm and voltage fans. The aq6 have 4 headers capable of pwm. the aq5 have only one. The fan headers can be configured to be either PWM or voltage control capable. Are you with the Aquaero 6? Is fo you can choose the fan you want since you have 4 fan headers capable of both PWM or voltage regulation.


----------



## denman

Hey everyone. I've been looking into a controller like this for a while and need help if one of these models will fit my needs. I'm looking for a controller that will work with two Swiftech D5 vario pumps and six Silent Wings 2 PWM fans. I would like a single controller than can control all eight of these components (two pumps, six fans).


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *denman*
> 
> Hey everyone. I've been looking into a controller like this for a while and need help if one of these models will fit my needs. I'm looking for a controller that will work with two Swiftech D5 vario pumps and six Silent Wings 2 PWM fans. I would like a single controller than can control all eight of these components (two pumps, six fans).


D5 Varios don't respond very well to voltage control. Not a good idea to try to control them with a fan controller of any type. I personally love the Vario because I can set the speed to whatever suits my noise threshold and leave it there, which works very well since changing flow rates have such a tiny impact on temps, unlike changing fan speeds.

If you feel you would rather be able to automatically control pump speeds then you want to either get the Aquacomputer USB Aquabus D5 or a PWM D5, and the latter you'd probably be best off to get the new Aquacomputer PWM D5 that allows for better control of it than previous PWM models.


----------



## denman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> D5 Varios don't respond very well to voltage control. Not a good idea to try to control them with a fan controller of any type. I personally love the Vario because I can set the speed to whatever suits my noise threshold and leave it there, which works very well since changing flow rates have such a tiny impact on temps, unlike changing fan speeds.
> 
> If you feel you would rather be able to automatically control pump speeds then you want to either get the Aquacomputer USB Aquabus D5 or a PWM D5, and the latter you'd probably be best off to get the new Aquacomputer PWM D5 that allows for better control of it than previous PWM models.


These are the two Aquacomputer pumps I could find.

Aquacomputer D5 Pump Mechanics with USB and Aquabus Interface
Aquacomputer D5 Pump Mechanics with RPM Signal

Is the RPM signal the PWM model you were referring to?


----------



## ozzy1925

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *denman*
> 
> These are the two Aquacomputer pumps I could find.
> 
> Aquacomputer D5 Pump Mechanics with USB and Aquabus Interface
> Aquacomputer D5 Pump Mechanics with RPM Signal
> 
> Is the RPM signal the PWM model you were referring to?


this:
http://shop.aquacomputer.de/product_info.php?products_id=3255


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Turbz*
> 
> I bought an NZXT internal USB expander so I can have a single USB cable run to the motherboard, and hopefully hang all USB connections for an Aquaero 6, two AC D5 pumps and an AC flow meter off it.
> 
> This is the device, I'm sure most of you are familiar ( mega man edited too much on phone sorry)
> 
> The USB cables that came with every AC device are half the height of the USB pinouts so my question is can I:
> 
> A) Connect two AC USB devices to one set of pins. allowing for up to six AC USB devices to be connected
> 
> B) Connect one AC USB device per set of pins, allowing for up to three AC USB devices to be connected.
> 
> Hope that makes sense, I can take pictures of the two scenarios if I'm not being clear enough. If the answer is B, I suppose I could find or build adapters to make use of the two external usb sockets.


Basically the usb 9 pin header is 2 usb ports.

The 5th wire on one set but not the other is the shield of the 2 wires which is grounded. But not needed

USB has 4 pins.

So each header can do 2 usb if that makes since. And it works well (that internal usb hub) I wish nzxt made a usb3.0 one
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Panther Al*
> 
> If I could ask some really noob questions...
> 
> Right, have the S8 on the way, and thanks to you all, I know I can use the Aquaero. For the fans, of which I plan 18, do I need to get PWM, or does the Aq. control fan speeds via voltage, which means I can get normal fans? I figured all I need is the Aquaero, since all I will have hooked up to it is the 18 and the D5 pump.


Either or
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *denman*
> 
> Hey everyone. I've been looking into a controller like this for a while and need help if one of these models will fit my needs. I'm looking for a controller that will work with two Swiftech D5 vario pumps and six Silent Wings 2 PWM fans. I would like a single controller than can control all eight of these components (two pumps, six fans).


Not getting into should you control the d5s. The aq can (aq6 not 5) without issue do what you want

If this is not right ( not showing quotes etc I'll fix when I get home


----------



## Anfs

Hi all
I'm looking at purchasing a Aquaero 6 and was wondering if the 4 fan outputs would be enough to control 13 to 14 corsair sp 120 fans or will I need to purchase additional poweradjust controllers.
Also how is the software I'm coming from corsair link and its rubbish how does it compare if anyone has had both.
Thanks in advance


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anfs*
> 
> Hi all
> I'm looking at purchasing a Aquaero 6 and was wondering if the 4 fan outputs would be enough to control 13 to 14 corsair sp 120 fans or will I need to purchase additional poweradjust controllers.
> Also how is the software I'm coming from corsair link and its rubbish how does it compare if anyone has had both.
> Thanks in advance


will handle the 14 sp120 without problem. Never used the Corsair software so can't comment on that but aquasuite is very useful and when you get the hang of how to move around on it is a breeze to config.


----------



## Mega Man

from all accounts i have heard it is much much better, ( software )

as to the fans again look at the amp rating

from what i have found each fan is 0.25 a

each channel should be able to handle ~ 10fans each, at full rpm ( with startup amperage i believe may need to lower to ~ 8fans )
so... yes easily

if you are running them undervolted you will want to lower the max amount of fans per channel ( less volts = more amps ) from above calculation


----------



## Anfs

Thankyou all for the replies
How do you guys have your fans hooked up using y cables straight to the aquaero 6 or a fan hub..
Cheers


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anfs*
> 
> Hi all
> I'm looking at purchasing a Aquaero 6 and was wondering if the 4 fan outputs would be enough to *control 13 to 14 corsair sp 120 fans* or will I need to purchase additional poweradjust controllers.
> Also how is the software *I'm coming from corsair link* and its rubbish how does it compare if anyone has had both.
> Thanks in advance


Before we go out on a limb here with possibly incorrect information . . . .

I have to assume from the bolded items that you have the Corsair PWM fans, not the regular 3 pin fans . . . . . Is that correct.

It makes a difference as the Corsair PWM fans are a somewhat proprietary design to work with the Corsair Link system, and not to be truly compatible with the Intel PWM standard.

If so, the A6 does fine with up to 8 of the Corsair PWM fans on a channel, and usually there's no problem with up to 10.

If you have more than 8 to 10, and can split them up to use no more than 8 per any 1 channel, it'll be fine.

The more Corsair PWM fans past the 8 to 10 range, the progressively less able you are to control them in the lower rpm range.

If they are the 3 pin fans, then it's just a matter of looking at how much current each one takes and not exceeding 2.5A per channel.

Darlene


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Before we go out on a limb here with possibly incorrect information . . . .
> 
> I have to assume from the bolded items that you have the Corsair PWM fans, not the regular 3 pin fans . . . . . Is that correct.
> 
> It makes a difference as the Corsair PWM fans are a somewhat proprietary design to work with the Corsair Link system, and not to be truly compatible with the Intel PWM standard.
> 
> If so, the A6 does fine with up to 8 of the Corsair PWM fans on a channel, and usually there's no problem with up to 10.
> 
> If you have more than 8 to 10, and can split them up to use no more than 8 per any 1 channel, it'll be fine.
> 
> The more Corsair PWM fans past the 8 to 10 range, the progressively less able you are to control them in the lower rpm range.
> 
> If they are the 3 pin fans, then it's just a matter of looking at how much current each one takes and not exceeding 2.5A per channel.
> 
> Darlene


Was thinking for some reason the sp120 he was talking about was volt controlled..Thanks Darlene









And here we go folks. Amazing how fast this got here, so thks Shoggy and Aquacomputer. Only one week and 2 days after I order:



Will be putting to use this week.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Before we go out on a limb here with possibly incorrect information . . . .
> 
> I have to assume from the bolded items that you have the Corsair PWM fans, not the regular 3 pin fans . . . . . Is that correct.
> 
> It makes a difference as the Corsair PWM fans are a somewhat proprietary design to work with the Corsair Link system, and not to be truly compatible with the Intel PWM standard.
> 
> If so, the A6 does fine with up to 8 of the Corsair PWM fans on a channel, and usually there's no problem with up to 10.
> 
> If you have more than 8 to 10, and can split them up to use no more than 8 per any 1 channel, it'll be fine.
> 
> The more Corsair PWM fans past the 8 to 10 range, the progressively less able you are to control them in the lower rpm range.
> 
> If they are the 3 pin fans, then it's just a matter of looking at how much current each one takes and not exceeding 2.5A per channel.
> 
> Darlene
> 
> 
> 
> Was thinking for some reason the sp120 he was talking about was volt controlled..Thanks Darlene
Click to expand...

as was i


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Before we go out on a limb here with possibly incorrect information . . . .
> 
> I have to assume from the bolded items that you have the Corsair PWM fans, not the regular 3 pin fans . . . . . Is that correct.
> 
> It makes a difference as the Corsair PWM fans are a somewhat proprietary design to work with the Corsair Link system, and not to be truly compatible with the Intel PWM standard.
> 
> If so, the A6 does fine with up to 8 of the Corsair PWM fans on a channel, and usually there's no problem with up to 10.
> 
> If you have more than 8 to 10, and can split them up to use no more than 8 per any 1 channel, it'll be fine.
> 
> The more Corsair PWM fans past the 8 to 10 range, the progressively less able you are to control them in the lower rpm range.
> 
> If they are the 3 pin fans, then it's just a matter of looking at how much current each one takes and not exceeding 2.5A per channel.
> 
> Darlene


Was thinking for some reason the sp120 he was talking about was volt controlled..Thanks Darlene









[/quote] as was i[/quote]

Any time I see anything to do with "Corsair Link", this huge red flag goes up in my brain









Darlene


----------



## Anfs

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Was thinking for some reason the sp120 he was talking about was volt controlled..Thanks Darlene


as was i[/quote]

Any time I see anything to do with "Corsair Link", this huge red flag goes up in my brain









Darlene[/quote]

Thankyou Darlene for the info.
Yes the fans that I have are the 3 pin variants so like you said I just have to see how much current each one takes.
Sorry about the confusion
Cheers


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anfs*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Was thinking for some reason the sp120 he was talking about was volt controlled..Thanks Darlene
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> as was i
Click to expand...

Any time I see anything to do with "Corsair Link", this huge red flag goes up in my brain









Darlene[/quote]

Thankyou Darlene for the info.
Yes the fans that I have are the 3 pin variants so like you said I just have to see how much current each one takes.
Sorry about the confusion
Cheers[/quote]

Piece of cake then.
















Thanks for the clarification.

D.


----------



## dodgethis

Hi, guys.

I'm looking at buying an Aquaero but I'm wondering to either get the 6 XT or the 5 LT. I will have three sets of PWM devices (three fan groups) but I am looking into power them through Aquaero but through something like the Swiftech PWM splitter. I know the 6 has four PWM 4-pin headers, compared to the 5's 'three' (one 4-pin header and two 2-pin header).

Would anyone know what the pin assignments are for the 5's 2-pin PWM headers and where I might be able to find converters for them to use on a 4-pin?


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dodgethis*
> 
> Hi, guys.
> 
> I'm looking at buying an Aquaero but I'm wondering to either get the 6 XT or the 5 LT. I will have three sets of PWM devices (three fan groups) but I am looking into power them through Aquaero but through something like the Swiftech PWM splitter. I know the 6 has four PWM 4-pin headers, compared to the 5's 'three' (one 4-pin header and two 2-pin header).
> 
> Would anyone know what the pin assignments are for the 5's 2-pin PWM headers and where I might be able to find converters for them to use on a 4-pin?


There is a little bit of misunderstanding here.
The Aquaero 5 has a single PWM fan output and the Aquaero 6 has four pwm fan outputs.
Both models also have two 12V PWM modulated power outputs. These are different than fan outputs for PWM fans.
The PWM power outputs are really designed for LED's but any 12V device could be connected to it but it is the equivalent of a cheap fan controller with no RPM capability. They do not work with the type of PWM fan splitters you mentioned.

A PWM fan output provides steady 12V power and a 5V switched PWM control signal.
A PWM power output provides a rapidly switching 12V that has the effect of simulating lower voltages.

If you don't mind all of the PWM fans running at the same speed then it may be possible to just put them all on the single PWM fan output. Some fans have a problem with sharing a PWM signal among many devices though, so it may be that the ability to control that many will be reduced or not effective.
If you want to be able to run the different groups of PWM fans at different speeds then you really need a PWM controller with multiple PWM fan outputs.


----------



## Shoggy

That said I also do not recommend to use the 2-pin PWM headers for fans. It would work but many fans tend to generate an annoying humming noise when they are driven by a power source that uses PWM.


----------



## Piospi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Piospi*
> 
> aqua.png 1066k .png file
> Hello guys,
> 
> I have a problem with my aquaero 6 PRO. Doesn't fit into my case - Obsidian 800D :/
> 
> It seems to me that there are handles are very protrude.
> Between the handle and the PCB is millimeter break.
> 
> I'm disappointed because I didn't expect problems with the installation.
> 
> I don't know what to do: /
> 
> Epic quality...


LOL

I got a "new" brackets and still wrong.



I am disappointed and I feel like I wasted a lot of money. In the second week I can not use the panel.

Definitely the first and last product from them.


----------



## dodgethis

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> That said I also do not recommend to use the 2-pin PWM headers for fans. It would work but many fans tend to generate an annoying humming noise when they are driven by a power source that uses PWM.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> There is a little bit of misunderstanding here.
> The Aquaero 5 has a single PWM fan output and the Aquaero 6 has four pwm fan outputs.
> Both models also have two 12V PWM modulated power outputs. These are different than fan outputs for PWM fans.
> The PWM power outputs are really designed for LED's but any 12V device could be connected to it but it is the equivalent of a cheap fan controller with no RPM capability. They do not work with the type of PWM fan splitters you mentioned.
> 
> A PWM fan output provides steady 12V power and a 5V switched PWM control signal.
> A PWM power output provides a rapidly switching 12V that has the effect of simulating lower voltages.
> 
> If you don't mind all of the PWM fans running at the same speed then it may be possible to just put them all on the single PWM fan output. Some fans have a problem with sharing a PWM signal among many devices though, so it may be that the ability to control that many will be reduced or not effective.
> If you want to be able to run the different groups of PWM fans at different speeds then you really need a PWM controller with multiple PWM fan outputs
> 
> 
> .


Thanks for the info, guys! I'm looking at either a 6XT or a 5LT and spare D5 pump in my order. Now to go back and think about it over a cold one. And dang, did the Farbwerk just get a 60 day production lead time recently?


----------



## skupples

Not sure but it only took my Farby a week to show up, via aqua tuning.


----------



## dodgethis

That's what's shown on the AQC store. Selling like hotcakes!


----------



## sinnedone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> Both models also have two 12V PWM modulated power outputs. These are different than fan outputs for PWM fans.
> *The PWM power outputs are really designed for LED's but any 12V device could be connected to it but it is the equivalent of a cheap fan controller with no RPM capability.* They do not work with the type of PWM fan splitters you mentioned.
> 
> A PWM fan output provides steady 12V power and a 5V switched PWM control signal.
> A PWM power output provides a rapidly switching 12V that has the effect of simulating lower voltages.


How would I control these 2 power outputs in the aquasuite software?

I tried looking but nothing really jumped out at me.


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sinnedone*
> 
> How would I control these 2 power outputs in the aquasuite software?
> 
> I tried looking but nothing really jumped out at me.


Add them to a controller in the software the same as you would the fan headers.
They are labled as power outputs 1 and 2


----------



## sinnedone

Thank you.

I'm going to have to get a course or something on the software. Are there any "good" tutorials somewhere that you know of?


----------



## Barefooter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sinnedone*
> 
> Thank you.
> 
> I'm going to have to get a course or something on the software. Are there any "good" tutorials somewhere that you know of?


You should start by reading Nams Guide. It's a little old now but still great info!
http://www.specialtechforums.co.uk/showthread.php?3393-NAMS-NEW-BASIC-GUIDE-to-the-AQUAERO-5

This and a few others are listed on the first page here.


----------



## Mega Man

While I agree it is a epic guide. I would recommend reading the aq manual first. Search this thread for mega man and manual and you should find the link I posted I am on mobile or I wood post it again


----------



## cam135

Could this controller run the pumps on the corsair h100i?


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cam135*
> 
> Could this controller run the pumps on the corsair h100i?


it could but that would be such a waste of equipment to put a Aquaero to controlling something like a h100i...


----------



## Mega Man

agreed

also manmual

http://aquacomputer.de/handbuecher.html?file=tl_files/aquacomputer/downloads/manuals/aquaero_5_6_en_2014_04_14.pdf


----------



## cam135

Yes it would be what about the lamptron cw611 would that work? It's a lot cheaper and not much more than the fc I was planning on buying.


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cam135*
> 
> Yes it would be what about the lamptron cw611 would that work? It's a lot cheaper and not much more than the fc I was planning on buying.


Controlling pumps has little if any impact on temps just creates more noise better to set pumps to one speed and control fans!


----------



## cam135

Awesome great info thanks !! One more quick question completely unrelated to this thread but is it better to run push vs. Pull on a rad.


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cam135*
> 
> Awesome great info thanks !! One more quick question completely unrelated to this thread but is it better to run push vs. Pull on a rad.


depend on who answer question..

as long as you are able to more air through radiator it really don't matter.


----------



## cam135

Perfect what about intaking fresh air or exhausting case air. Common sense says bring cold air over the rad but won't this increase the cases ambient temperature


----------



## Costas

PWM control can be useful where you may have resonance issues at certain RPMs which can amplify pump noise. With PWM you can fine tune the RPM so that it minimises or eliminates this effect.


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cam135*
> 
> Perfect what about intaking fresh air or exhausting case air. Common sense says bring cold air over the rad but won't this increase the cases ambient temperature


tell you what try it and see if one way makes a difference.

this is all fun and about getting the best we can. best way to find this is to experiment!!


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Costas*
> 
> PWM control can be useful where you may have resonance issues at certain RPMs which can amplify pump noise. With PWM you can fine tune the RPM so that it minimises or eliminates this effect.


that is true but still better to find best place and set and forget right??


----------



## cam135

Okay thanks for all your advice!!


----------



## Costas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> that is true but still better to find best place and set and forget right??


True, however with the vario version you are limited to a couple of settings whereas the PWM variants offer more granularity in the set RPM value if required.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Costas*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> that is true but still better to find best place and set and forget right??
> 
> 
> 
> True, however with the vario version you are limited to a couple of settings whereas the PWM variants offer more granularity in the set RPM value if required.
Click to expand...

The Vario is infinitely variable within it's range . . . . it's not like the red adjustment screw "clicks" at specified settings . . . it is a potentiometer.

The big difference use-ability wise is the PWM version can run slower and start reliably at lower speeds than the Vario.

If you don't need really slow speeds, the vario is usually flexible enough if you can mount it so that you can get to the adjuster.

Darlene


----------



## electro2u

Yah... It took me about 9 months to realize my varios didn't need to have the dial set on any of the numbers you can set it anywhere between them too. Can do it while it's running even.


----------



## Costas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> The Vario is infinitely variable within it's range . . . . it's not like the red adjustment screw "clicks" at specified settings . . . it is a potentiometer.


Ok - Thanks Darlene for highlighting that.

I was not aware that it was simply a pot. I have only toyed with the PWM variants and was none the wiser...


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Costas*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> The Vario is infinitely variable within it's range . . . . it's not like the red adjustment screw "clicks" at specified settings . . . it is a potentiometer.
> 
> 
> 
> Ok - Thanks Darlene for highlighting that.
> 
> I was not aware that it was simply a pot. I have only toyed with the PWM variants and was none the wiser...
Click to expand...

When running a single pump, the Vario is usually all you need, especially if you don't have a PWM capable controller, and/or need to reserve the mobo PWM for fans.

When you get to dual pumps, where you can usually get plenty of flow at speeds too slow to trust to a vario being able to start reliably, then PWM is the better way to go.

Darlene


----------



## IT Diva

Looks like PPCs has the USB / Aquabus Farby back in stock . . . . 20 of them when I looked a bit ago . . . .

http://www.performance-pcs.com/aquacomputer-farbwerk-usb-aquabus-version.html

No more of the cables yet, but maybe soon, at least the Farby is there.

Darlene


----------



## sinnedone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Barefooter*
> 
> You should start by reading Nams Guide. It's a little old now but still great info!
> http://www.specialtechforums.co.uk/showthread.php?3393-NAMS-NEW-BASIC-GUIDE-to-the-AQUAERO-5
> 
> This and a few others are listed on the first page here.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> agreed
> 
> also manmual
> 
> http://aquacomputer.de/handbuecher.html?file=tl_files/aquacomputer/downloads/manuals/aquaero_5_6_en_2014_04_14.pdf


Thank you both. Looks like I have some reading to do.


----------



## Mega Man

np if you scroll to the endish it shows the software / how to use it


----------



## Artah

I don't have it yet but got confirmation that Aquatuning USA shipped it so I'm a new owner of A6XT. I might be a new owner of an A6Pro also if FCPU decides to pick back up and start shipping stuff.

I'm sorry if this was already answered but I'll read the hundreds of pages at a later time. I wanted to know if I can use the non PWM/variable version of the MCP655/D5 pump directly plugged into one of the ports or do I have to get some type of mod? Please let me know if you have tested this. Thank you.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Artah*
> 
> I don't have it yet but got confirmation that Aquatuning USA shipped it so I'm a new owner of A6XT. I might be a new owner of an A6Pro also if FCPU decides to pick back up and start shipping stuff.
> 
> I'm sorry if this was already answered but I'll read the hundreds of pages at a later time. I wanted to know if I can use the non PWM/variable version of the MCP655/D5 pump directly plugged into one of the ports or do I have to get some type of mod? Please let me know if you have tested this. Thank you.


Guys have been voltage controlling the D5 for years . . .

It works . . . basically, but not outstandingly . . . The D5 was never designed to be speed controlled via variable voltage.

The range of usable voltage, and with it, the rpm range, is pretty limited compared to the PWM or even the Vario model.

Some have had better experiences than others, but generally, you have a min voltage of ~8V before the pump stops, or won't reliably start, and with it a min rpm of low 3000's. . . . The max at 12V is about ~4600 . . ( plus or minus a couple hundred )

The A6 can supply enough current for a single D5 if you make up an adapter to connect the molex to the 3 pin to plug on the A6.

Darlene


----------



## Artah

Well since this is on the front page "PWM Version of the D5 not controllable with the A6" I'm wondering if there is other options or this does not apply to the XT model? I really want to use a D5 pump, maybe i'll just use a variable version and not mess with controlling it with a controller.


----------



## Mega Man

you can

1 do the diva mod

2 buy the aq pwm d5 with preinstalled diva mod from aq


----------



## Artah

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> you can
> 
> 1 do the diva mod
> 
> 2 buy the aq pwm d5 with preinstalled diva mod from aq


Is it this one? Plugs right into the AQ6XT?

http://www.aquatuning.us/water-cooling/pumps/d5-series/d5-pumps/13775/aquacomputer-d5-pump-mechnics-with-usb-and-aquabus-interface?c=6541


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Artah*
> 
> Is it this one? Plugs right into the AQ6XT?
> 
> http://www.aquatuning.us/water-cooling/pumps/d5-series/d5-pumps/13775/aquacomputer-d5-pump-mechnics-with-usb-and-aquabus-interface?c=6541


this one:

http://shop.aquacomputer.de/product_info.php?products_id=3255

the usb version can be connected to a usb port or to aquabus in aquaero. Other pwm d5 are not compatible with the aquaero.


----------



## Artah

Thanks. Aqua Computer will not ship to the US or at least where i'm at and Aquatuning does not have that one. I'll have to get the USB version.


----------



## Shoggy

We ship to almost every place on this planet.


----------



## Mega Man

perf pcs has them


----------



## Artah

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> We ship to almost every place on this planet.


Shipping

Please select the desired shipping methos for your order.

DHL/Deutsche Post Deutsche Post international shipping
Our shop is currently not configured for dispatch to this country. Please contact our customer support for shipping costs and ordering procedure for your country.

UPS Express United Parcel Service Express
Our shop is currently not configured for express shipping to this country. Please contact our customer support if you would like express shipping to this country.

Myabe my IE browser sucks


----------



## Artah

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> perf pcs has them


I'm only seeing the USB and Variable type in PPCS, can you link please?


----------



## Shoggy

@Artah

May I ask which country you have selected? If it really is USA then there is something wrong with your browser for sure. There are only a few countries that will bring up this message because of restrictions on imports for example. In such a case the order must be processed manually by contacting us so we can check if it is possible.


----------



## Artah

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> @Artah
> 
> May I ask which country you have selected? If it really is USA then there is something wrong with your browser for sure. There are only a few countries that will bring up this message because of restrictions on imports for example. In such a case the order must be processed manually by contacting us so we can check if it is possible.


You sir are a lifesaver. I fixed the issue and ordered but too embarassed to say what it was







Without your comments I would not have checked though!


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> @Artah
> 
> May I ask which country you have selected? If it really is USA then there is something wrong with your browser for sure. There are only a few countries that will bring up this message because of restrictions on imports for example. In such a case the order must be processed manually by contacting us so we can check if it is possible.


i have had that issue as well. with both firefox and IE in the past , but have since been able to order
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Artah*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> perf pcs has them
> 
> 
> 
> I'm only seeing the USB and Variable type in PPCS, can you link please?
Click to expand...

i see the pwm but upon further digging looks to be the old version ( needs diva mod )


----------



## aaroc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> That's exactly what it is and I haven't seen them as a stand alone item either.
> 
> Maybe see if it's listed as an accessory item available from Dimastech.
> 
> Darlene


http://www.dimastechusa.com/accessories-supports-for-fans
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Dimastech used to sell them as an accessory but for a long while now they have been listed as 'Out of production'. There is a link where you can 'request information' though.
> 
> http://shop.dimastech.it/en/dimastech-flexfan120-black-v10
> 
> Perhaps one of their retailers/resellers still has some of them.


I contacted PPC to order some Dimastech bench accessories (bought the bench there) and they told me to order directly from http://www.dimastechusa.com/ a few emails later I had may order ready, very nice email support.
The Flex Fanr consist of two parts the flexible stick and the fan holder. I ordered two bigger fan holder for 140mm fan as my Dimastech EasyXL 3 came with 120mm holders. And a lot of other accessories to cut parts. The Aquaero 6 XT does not fit on the holes of the 3.5" attachment device, so ordered a new one to destroy/mod to fit the Aquaero 6 XT.

Any pictures of the Aquaero 6XT attached to the dimastech *5 1/4" (fixed)* attachment device will be appreciated.


----------



## Dagamus NM

Well that dimastech tech test bench looks pretty sweet, thanks for the links. I am ordering an easy xl 3 with extra 140mm fan things and 2 dual 2.5" SSD brackets. I went with the red, I hope the color is as vibrant in real life. Aaroc, I am confused as to what you are trying to accomplish, wouldn't the aq6 have to go on a 5 1/4" bay? I have no idea how it would mount to a 3.5...Do you mean 5 1/4" or am I missing something here?

Oh, the flexible part is called a flexible gooseneck.


----------



## concept73

Just bought my second Aquaero XT5 whoop whoop!


----------



## aaroc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dagamus NM*
> 
> Well that dimastech tech test bench looks pretty sweet, thanks for the links. I am ordering an easy xl 3 with extra 140mm fan things and 2 dual 2.5" SSD brackets. I went with the red, I hope the color is as vibrant in real life. Aaroc, I am confused as to what you are trying to accomplish, wouldn't the aq6 have to go on a 5 1/4" bay? I have no idea how it would mount to a 3.5...Do you mean 5 1/4" or am I missing something here?
> 
> Oh, the flexible part is called a flexible gooseneck.


English is not my first nor second language, so sometimes I really don't know how something is called outside the Computer Science field








You are right a was sleepy when I posted yesterday. Its the 5 1/4 bay.
The spicy red Easy XL 3 is like Ferrari F1 Red, I have loots of pictures on my signature build log. The screw holes of the AQ6 XT do not align with the ones in the 5 1/4" bay of the bench. If you align them the AQ6 XT will be like 2-3cm outside the front of the bench.I will take a picture later if I can.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *aaroc*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Dagamus NM*
> 
> Well that dimastech tech test bench looks pretty sweet, thanks for the links. I am ordering an easy xl 3 with extra 140mm fan things and 2 dual 2.5" SSD brackets. I went with the red, I hope the color is as vibrant in real life. Aaroc, I am confused as to what you are trying to accomplish, wouldn't the aq6 have to go on a 5 1/4" bay? I have no idea how it would mount to a 3.5...Do you mean 5 1/4" or am I missing something here?
> 
> Oh, the flexible part is called a flexible gooseneck.
> 
> 
> 
> English is not my first nor second language, so sometimes I really don't know how something is called outside the Computer Science field
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You are right a was sleepy when I posted yesterday. Its the 5 1/4 bay.
> The spicy red Easy XL 3 is like Ferrari F1 Red, I have loots of pictures on my signature build log. The screw holes of the AQ6 XT do not align with the ones in the 5 1/4" bay of the bench. If you align them the AQ6 XT will be like 2-3cm outside the front of the bench.I will take a picture later if I can.
Click to expand...

I have an Easy XL, and while it's not an Aquaero in the bays, the controller that is still doesn't push back far enough to be flush at the front either . . . . . Seems it's just designed to have the device extend a bit forward of the front panel's edge.

I'd like to see it sit back, where it's better protected from possible drips and spills, . . . . . but it's not, unless you custom drill some new screw holes.

Darlene


----------



## Artah

Anyone else had issues with the front plate plastic falling off on a AQ6 XT? It goes back in when I press on it but it seems like the glue is like bubblegun







I'm about to use super glue on it.


----------



## Shoggy

You can try it with glue but if it does not work you must exchange the whole front. In this case write an e-mail or contact me directly.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Artah*
> 
> Anyone else had issues with the front plate plastic falling off on a AQ6 XT? It goes back in when I press on it but it seems like the glue is like bubblegun
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm about to use super glue on it.


Two of mine do/did that . . . . seems the plastic is either a tiny fraction too long, or the stainless steel plate cutout is a tiny fraction too short.

Possibly a combination of the two, where the plastic is at the max spec for length, and the faceplate is at the min spec for width of opening. . . .

Super glue won't likely actually solve the problem, and may just make a mess.

I fixed mine by carefully sanding the rounded end of the plastic on the bench belt sander, although you could achieve the same result with a sanding block by hand.

Darlene


----------



## Costas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Artah*
> 
> I'm about to use super glue on it.


Don't use superglue - As Darlene has mention it probably won't adhere anyway and is likely to cause fogging due to the fumes....!

In my case I just used a thin smear of clear silicone sealant [small amount placed in a couple of strategic spots around the perimeter of the plastic] and held it flat with masking tape overnight until the sealant cured - worked well.


----------



## Artah

Thanks for the info guys, is it safe to remove that plastic without losing enough glue to put it back on?


----------



## Keei

Whats the difference with Aquaero 6 pro and xt? Is the price difference between both worthed?


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Keei*
> 
> Whats the difference with Aquaero 6 pro and xt? Is the price difference between both worthed?


An IR remote and touch screen vs physical buttons.


----------



## Mega Man

really up to you

as to functionality no no difference the extra buttons on the faceplate are nice .

i prefer the look of the xt though


----------



## Jakusonfire

So, is anybody else besides me annoyed by the fundamental change in Aquasuite and the Aquaero whereby it used to be that fans not assigned to a controller would not run. Whereas now they run at full speed.

It used to be so easy to stop all fans. Just remove them from the controller and when done it was just as easy to add them back. 1 click for each channel.

Now the only way is to slide all of their max speeds to zero. Even just adding them to a 0% controller does not work if you have minimum speeds set. So to stop all fans you must slide all their max and mins to zero, and when you want them back to running again you must individually adjust all their max and mins again.

It makes the whole process much more fiddly and I can't see an upside to the change?


----------



## Costas

^^^

Is that for PWM & non PWM setups?

Only time I really need to shutdown my fans is when bleeding my loop etc and I simply utilse one of the user profiles for that.


----------



## josetortola

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Costas*
> 
> ^^^
> 
> Is that for PWM & non PWM setups?
> 
> Only time I really need to shutdown my fans is when bleeding my loop etc and I simply utilse one of the user profiles for that.


I think is for every kind of fan connection.

I've just installed an AQ5LT in a new build, upgraded to latest firmware, and when checking it before connecting any fan, Aquasuite displayed 40ºC in the fan current amplifiers, and I realized that AQ5 was powering them even without being associated to any controller. I "shut them off" by adjusting their maximum power to 0% and the amplifiers' temperature go down to 25ºC. And it was the same in the 4 connections, 3 of them set as power/speed controlled and the other one in PWM controlled.

So I think the same as Jakusonfire, it is an issue of the new firmware.


----------



## Shoggy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> It makes the whole process much more fiddly and I can't see an upside to the change?


You have to thank our not so clever customers for this _feature_


----------



## laxboimike

is anyone having trouble with the plastic cover over the touchscreen on the aquaro 6 XT staying on? mine seems to keep falling off and i dont want to add any sort of adhesive incase it messes up the touch screen.


----------



## Shoggy

It was just mentioned a few posts ago. If it does not stay in place you will need a new one by replacing the whole front part. You can e-mail us or send me a PM to get a new one.


----------



## jagdtigger

@Jakusonfire
Just make a profile with all fans set to 0% and one for normal use...


----------



## sinnedone

I was reading a review on the MPS flow sensors and it mentioned that the temperature on the MPS 400 (the one I have) and similar weren't very reliable and to rely on another sensor for accurate readings. Is this correct?


----------



## Artah

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *laxboimike*
> 
> is anyone having trouble with the plastic cover over the touchscreen on the aquaro 6 XT staying on? mine seems to keep falling off and i dont want to add any sort of adhesive incase it messes up the touch screen.


From the responses that I got I did the sand and epoxy glue method. I hope it's dry by the time I get home so that I can mount it and see if mine falls off still. Its very nice to have the option to get a replacement if it does not work out, thanks Shoggy.

Even with this front plate falling off on me I still think that this piece of hardware is very impressive! I love quality items and AQ6 XT is definitely nice.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sinnedone*
> 
> I was reading a review on the MPS flow sensors and it mentioned that the temperature on the MPS 400 (the one I have) and similar weren't very reliable and to rely on another sensor for accurate readings. Is this correct?


yes mate. it is 2 to 4 degrees C off. Example, right now my mps 400 is saying 31.8 C in GPU loop but the correct temp is 29.24 C.


----------



## sinnedone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> yes mate. it is 2 to 4 degrees C off. Example, right now my mps 400 is saying 31.8 C in GPU loop but the correct temp is 29.24 C.


So I'd be better off buying say a bitspower g1/4 temperature plug into one of my rads and connecting to my aquaero for coolant based fan curves?


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sinnedone*
> 
> So I'd be better off buying say a bitspower g1/4 temperature plug into one of my rads and connecting to my aquaero for coolant based fan curves?


oh yeah. That is the way I did.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> It makes the whole process much more fiddly and I can't see an upside to the change?
> 
> 
> 
> You have to thank our not so clever customers for this _feature_
Click to expand...

IE the people who put it in plug in the fans and cant figure out why the fans are not on then want ac to replace all their hardware


----------



## Shoggy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> IE the people who put it in plug in the fans and cant figure out why the fans are not on then want ac to replace all their hardware


Yes, for example. Especially for me it is a nice thing. There are always e-mails or phone calls like my fans do not work and I have no idea why and then you start to discuss the whole configuration with them to figure out if they have done something wrong or the device is faulty. Now I can just ask to remove the controllers associated to the fans and if they start to work I know the device is OK


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sinnedone*
> 
> I was reading a review on the MPS flow sensors and it mentioned that the temperature on the MPS 400 (the one I have) and similar weren't very reliable and to rely on another sensor for accurate readings. Is this correct?


Yes.
Here MPS 4 Internal is located between water 3 and 4 in the loop. It also doesn't, at least in my loop, seem to remain a consistent offset from the other sensors otherwise using the offset slider would be fine.


----------



## testplsignore

Just got my Aquaero 6 XT!!









Perfect fit in the Phanteks Enthoo Primo.

Replacing the faceplate with the black one was a little scary at first, but it fits perfectly.









Working on getting a small power brick so I can test it out.









Quick question,
Can I use a standard 4-pin fan PWM extension to extend the RGB LED? The plug looks like a PWM fan cable.


----------



## Shoggy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *testplsignore*
> 
> Can I use a standard 4-pin fan PWM extension to extend the RGB LED? The plug looks like a PWM fan cable.


Should work.


----------



## iCrap

my aquero 6 has stopped working and the display will not come on.... I don't know what to do. Is there a way to RMA it?


----------



## Artah

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Artah*
> 
> From the responses that I got I did the sand and epoxy glue method. I hope it's dry by the time I get home so that I can mount it and see if mine falls off still. Its very nice to have the option to get a replacement if it does not work out, thanks Shoggy.
> 
> Even with this front plate falling off on me I still think that this piece of hardware is very impressive! I love quality items and AQ6 XT is definitely nice.


Update on this. My AQ6 XT is now happy and keeping its face on. Thank you everyone for the suggestions.


----------



## iCrap

Actually it seems not only my display has stopped, but the entire unit quit working...









The support site is German... I can't figure out how to RMA or contact anyone...
anybody know what to do?


----------



## Mega Man

Shoggy


----------



## IT Diva

I just opened the box on another new A6, and this makes the 3rd of the last 6 that have unacceptable QC issues with the plastic fitment to the stainless front plate . . . .

For something that's obviously a known issue, you'd think they would be watching for it, and would be getting better at not sending them out like this:



This is brand new, right out of the box, and the front plastic is all bowed out like this . . . .

This is by far the worst one I've had, . . . bloody hell man, what's so damn hard about getting this right !

The Aquaero is hands down the best controller available, and I have no issue with the $200 plus that they cost, but come on . . . . let's see this fitment issue resolved once and for all . . .

Getting a little pissed,

Darlene


----------



## sinnedone

Oh they're working on a fix, they're just gonna charge you 50 dollars for the revised/fixed faceplate.


----------



## VSG

Yeah that's pretty ridiculous.

Edit: lol so that statement above works for both the previous posts


----------



## sinnedone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Yeah that's pretty ridiculous.
> 
> Edit: lol so that statement above works for both the previous posts


lol

Imagine my surprise when I find out that the fancy 80 dollar fan controller I just bought (5LT) can't lower the rpms on my fans. Why do you ask... because the onboard electronics get so hot that it automatically bumps the fan back up to 100% to let the electronics cool down. Aquacomputer has a fix for me though... buy this 20 dollar heatsink and now you can turn your fans down and use our product as it was intended, you know a fan controller.

WHAT THE FUNK!

Seriously... something that should be included with the unit itself in order for it to function as intended is a paid accessory.









I know I should have probably dug a little deeper into it just to cover my bases, but that's just unacceptable and is one of the worst cases of nickel and diming I've ever seen. Another thing is the PWM plugs, yeah they're only like 2 bucks each but why aren't they included!

Sorry about the little rant, but my previous statement still stands. I now return you to your regularly scheduled nickel and diming.


----------



## Newtocooling

Can anyone suggest what I may be doing wrong? I have a new DDC PWM controlled pump being powered by the molex connector, and the PWM tach cable going to my Aquaero fan one header. For some reason I can't get an RPM readout on the Aquaero, but I can get the RPM if I plug into the CPU fan header on the motherboard. Is there a setting on the Aquaero that I need to change to show the pump RPM? I would really like to create a curve for my pump once I get my system fully together.


----------



## Mega Man

where are you looking to find said RPM ?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sinnedone*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Yeah that's pretty ridiculous.
> 
> Edit: lol so that statement above works for both the previous posts
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> lol
> 
> Imagine my surprise when I find out that the fancy 80 dollar fan controller I just bought (5LT) can't lower the rpms on my fans. Why do you ask... because the onboard electronics get so hot that it automatically bumps the fan back up to 100% to let the electronics cool down. Aquacomputer has a fix for me though... buy this 20 dollar heatsink and now you can turn your fans down and use our product as it was intended, you know a fan controller.
> 
> WHAT THE FUNK!
> 
> Seriously... something that should be included with the unit itself in order for it to function as intended is a paid accessory.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I know I should have probably dug a little deeper into it just to cover my bases, but that's just unacceptable and is one of the worst cases of nickel and diming I've ever seen. Another thing is the PWM plugs, yeah they're only like 2 bucks each but why aren't they included!
> 
> Sorry about the little rant, but my previous statement still stands. I now return you to your regularly scheduled nickel and diming.
Click to expand...

umm you paid for the cheapest model that aq makes and you got the cheapest they make,

they clearly state what it can handle and what it does

you even have a forum that you can ask things like " what do i need "

and then you complain when it works, and ( i would assume ) you over loaded the recommended amp draw










it sounds like the underlined is true

as to the phase you used "nickel and dime" that they are doing, well they need to make a profit, and they dont make much on the LT ever, that is why they will not make a lt 6

budget components = budget results


----------



## VSG

Aside from the screen, there isn't anything different between the Aquaero 5 models. There was a discussion on the max wattage and heatsink/waterblock a few pages back too- the wording was ambiguous enough for people to have interpreted it differently.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Newtocooling*
> 
> Can anyone suggest what I may be doing wrong? I have a new DDC PWM controlled pump being powered by the molex connector, and the PWM tach cable going to my Aquaero fan one header. For some reason I can't get an RPM readout on the Aquaero, but I can get the RPM if I plug into the CPU fan header on the motherboard. Is there a setting on the Aquaero that I need to change to show the pump RPM? I would really like to create a curve for my pump once I get my system fully together.


are you sure the fan header is set to PWM? Go to the fan tab in the Aquasuite and click advanced settings. Set fan header to PWM mode which by default is not.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Aside from the screen, there isn't anything different between the Aquaero 5 models. There was a discussion on the max wattage and heatsink/waterblock a few pages back too- the wording was ambiguous enough for people to have interpreted it differently.


the pro / xt come with the HS v2


----------



## Domiro

Watercooling requires a fair bit of reading before you attempt it, I don´t see why the same approach doesn´t apply to a controller. In particular one that´s made by a company specialised in watercooling.

Really like my AQ5 LT.


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> the pro / xt come with the HS v2


I went by Daz's video which probably wasn't the best choice lol. You are right, I read a few other reviews that said the Aquaero 5 Pro/XT come with the aluminium heatsink









+1


----------



## Newtocooling

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> are you sure the fan header is set to PWM? Go to the fan tab in the Aquasuite and click advanced settings. Set fan header to PWM mode which by default is not.


Thanks I will check. I only have the Aquaero connected to an external molex power supply while I check hardware for my next build. I think I did try and change the setting for fan one to PWM through the Aquaero settings on the unit itself though.


----------



## Mega Man

would still be able to read RPM i must ask again

where are you looking for the rpm

( Unit LCD, windows/aquasuite, hwinfo )


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sinnedone*
> 
> lol
> 
> Imagine my surprise when I find out that the fancy 80 dollar fan controller I just bought (5LT) can't lower the rpms on my fans. Why do you ask... because the onboard electronics get so hot that it automatically bumps the fan back up to 100% to let the electronics cool down. Aquacomputer has a fix for me though... buy this 20 dollar heatsink and now you can turn your fans down and use our product as it was intended, you know a fan controller.
> 
> WHAT THE FUNK!
> 
> Seriously... something that should be included with the unit itself in order for it to function as intended is a paid accessory.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I know I should have probably dug a little deeper into it just to cover my bases, but that's just unacceptable and is one of the worst cases of nickel and diming I've ever seen. Another thing is the PWM plugs, yeah they're only like 2 bucks each but why aren't they included!
> 
> Sorry about the little rant, but my previous statement still stands. I now return you to your regularly scheduled nickel and diming.


I have a water block for it u could have for a good price!!! Have several actually!!!


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sinnedone*
> 
> lol
> 
> Imagine my surprise when I find out that the fancy 80 dollar fan controller I just bought (5LT) can't lower the rpms on my fans. Why do you ask... because the onboard electronics get so hot that it automatically bumps the fan back up to 100% to let the electronics cool down. Aquacomputer has a fix for me though... buy this 20 dollar heatsink and now you can turn your fans down and use our product as it was intended, you know a fan controller.
> 
> WHAT THE FUNK!
> 
> Seriously... something that should be included with the unit itself in order for it to function as intended is a paid accessory.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I know I should have probably dug a little deeper into it just to cover my bases, but that's just unacceptable and is one of the worst cases of nickel and diming I've ever seen. Another thing is the PWM plugs, yeah they're only like 2 bucks each but why aren't they included!
> 
> Sorry about the little rant, but my previous statement still stands. I now return you to your regularly scheduled nickel and diming.


You just have to get used to these little quirks if you want the Aquacomputer experience. There are several little things like that.
The 5LT controller that doesn't come with a heatsink as standard so that yeah, it'll run fans ... just not slow them down.








That darn silver faceplate as standard ... and 'optional extra' black face plates even though the industry has pretty universally gone black as standard
flow meters that don't come with the unique cable needed to use them

Some of it can be explained like with the heatsink they are keeping costs down as some people may never use the heatsink and go straight to the water block


----------



## EVR009

Hi,

Please check out my build,http://www.overclock.net/t/1541911/project-soa-just-one-of-those-builds-i-never-got-around-to-posting

Here I have two Aquaero 5 Pro controlling two separate loops pumps, fans and RGB Leds. It was quite some work figuring out the wiring but not bad I thought for my first attempt at watercooling.

Thanks,

Roger


----------



## Anfs

Hi all I just received My Aquaero 6 xt and would like to know if there are any good guides to using this thing.
I just hooked it up to an external power supply with 2 fans and couldn't even work out how to lower the speed.
Once I finish the new build I will be installing the software but it would be good to know how to do things from the Aquaero itself.
Cheers


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anfs*
> 
> Hi all I just received My Aquaero 6 xt and would like to know if there are any good guides to using this thing.
> I just hooked it up to an external power supply with 2 fans and couldn't even work out how to lower the speed.
> Once I finish the new build I will be installing the software but it would be good to know how to do things from the Aquaero itself.
> Cheers


The Aquaero is a complex device and as such the built in menus and operating system can seem daunting. I would recommend carefully going through the manual and playing with the interface as you go. Once you understand the logic of it, it becomes much clearer.
The Manual available now is much better than it used to be. When I got my first Aquaero the manual was almost non existant. I just played around with it til it started to make sense.
Nams guide is good but I think it mainly just covers the software side
http://www.specialtechforums.co.uk/showthread.php?3393-NAMS-NEW-BASIC-GUIDE-to-the-AQUAERO-5

A lot of the system can be ignored to begin with. The two key menu areas are 'Controllers' and 'Outputs'
I'll give you a quick rundown of adding a fan header to a controller.

Press the middle key and the menus become available. The top and bottom keys are up and down, the middle is like enter. To go back up a level you scroll down to the back botton

Go to Controllers to set up your first controller

Start with a simple preset constant value

Select one of the presets


And change its value


Once done go to back


Til you get back to the main menu and go to outputs

Pick a Fan


You can change its maximum and minimum values but just leave that alone for now

Go to data source

And find the preset you have already created



That is your first fan output running under a controller you have created. A controller can have many outputs added to it. So you don't have to individually set each output.
Other controller types like the curve controllers are more complex and are much easier to create with the Aquasuite software. It can all be done from the unit itself though and the software never used if you really wanted.

For more basic operation, all fan headers are set to run under a 100% controller as default so going to outputs / fans and lowering its max power provides simple speed control.


----------



## Anfs

Thankyou so much Jakusonfire for that yes it does look a bit daunting but it gives me a chance to play around once I get my build done.
Thanks again


----------



## jagdtigger

I just got my high flow usb flow sensor and i have troubles connecting it via aquabus... Connected first to usb set to use aquabus then plug in aquabus high (with 4 pin cable, then pull out usb) but its not listed under connected aqaubus devices and cant get readings from it. Any ideas what went wrong?


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anfs*
> 
> Hi all I just received My Aquaero 6 xt and would like to know if there are any good guides to using this thing.
> I just hooked it up to an external power supply with 2 fans and couldn't even work out how to lower the speed.
> Once I finish the new build I will be installing the software but it would be good to know how to do things from the Aquaero itself.
> Cheers


I would recommend reading the manual.

Sorry I an on mobile so I had to quote an old post

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> agreed
> 
> also manmual
> 
> http://aquacomputer.de/handbuecher.html?file=tl_files/aquacomputer/downloads/manuals/aquaero_5_6_en_2014_04_14.pdf


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jagdtigger*
> 
> I just got my high flow usb flow sensor and i have troubles connecting it via aquabus... Connected first to usb set to use aquabus then plug in aquabus high (with 4 pin cable, then pull out usb) but its not listed under connected aqaubus devices and cant get readings from it. Any ideas what went wrong?


If you have both USB and Aquabus connected check the priority of the connection. Also do all the connections with the power off the cable from PSU off the outlet. First try connect via USB. Is recognized? Is working ok? If so put priority Aquabus. Turn off. Connect the Aquabus and check if is reading. If you have other devices sharing the Aquabus don´t forget to change the aquabus number otheriwse devices will conflict with each other.


----------



## jagdtigger

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Also do all the connections with the power off the cable from PSU off the outlet.


That was my problem, there was no power down when i switched the connection(physically) to aquabus







. Thanks







.


----------



## sinnedone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> umm you paid for the cheapest model that aq makes and you got the cheapest they make,
> 
> they clearly state what it can handle and what it does
> 
> you even have a forum that you can ask things like " what do i need "
> 
> and then you complain when it works, and ( i would assume ) you over loaded the recommended amp draw
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> it sounds like the underlined is true
> 
> as to the phase you used "nickel and dime" that they are doing, well they need to make a profit, and they don't make much on the LT ever, that is why they will not make a lt 6
> 
> budget components = budget results


lol

I didn't overload it at all. Amp draw is within manufacturer specs and is verified in the software. Eighty dollars is not cheap. Trust me they are making money hence why they're still here, and a 20 cent heatsink isn't going to make a big difference.

I am entitled to my opinion, and I calls em as I sees em.

I have no brand loyalty and simply use products as intended.









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> I have a water block for it u could have for a good price!!! Have several actually!!!


lol Thank you. I'll keep that in mind.









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> You just have to get used to these little quirks if you want the Aquacomputer experience. There are several little things like that.
> The 5LT controller that doesn't come with a heatsink as standard so that yeah, *it'll run fans ... just not slow them down*.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That darn silver faceplate as standard ... and 'optional extra' black face plates even though the industry has pretty universally gone black as standard
> flow meters that don't come with the unique cable needed to use them
> 
> Some of it can be explained like with the heatsink they are keeping costs down as some people may never use the heatsink and go straight to the water block


Thank you for chiming in.







In bold is exactly what I experienced.

Dont get me wrong the software seems to be on point and the expandability and options are good within their product line, it just seems some things get overlooked for the sake of a couple of cents vs good customer experience.


----------



## Mega Man

80 is pennies.

And it had already been said by shoggy they don't have high margins on the lt.

As far as your opinion I completely agree. And no matter how wrong you are I would fight and die for you to have your opinion.

However I am also allowed to have my opinion


----------



## sinnedone

Agreed on the opinion aspect, pennies not so much.


----------



## Ironsmack

What does the "hold minimum power" do?

Does the controller holds the minimum values until it needs to ramp up?

Example:

I have the controller use a curved value to ramp fans from 20% to 90% based on the temp. However, sometimes the temp sensor go below the temp threshold I set it too.

So, what I want for the controller to do is hold the minimum value (20%) regardless if the temp goes below my temp threshold (6.5 to 12C).

However, its not doing that. Did I set it up wrong?


----------



## NE0XY

Hi,
I'm about to invest in one of these and I just have a few questions, the questions have probably been answered before and I apologize if this might be repetitive then, but It's a lot of money and I'd like to be sure before I order it, Thank You.

The model that I'm thinking about is this one "Aquacomputer Aquaero 6 XT USB Fan Controller"

It is possible to control it via software from the PC right? "Aquasuite" or something?
If I want to run more than 4 channels / "fan groups", how do I do that? Is there an extender or something that I buy separately or is it possible to do it without?
Will I be able to correctly change the speeds of non-pwm fans?
Thank you
//NE0XY


----------



## electro2u

It is possible to control it via software from the PC right? "Aquasuite" or something?

*Yes, very nice integration*

If I want to run more than 4 channels / "fan groups", how do I do that? Is there an extender or something that I buy separately or is it possible to do it without?

*Aquacomputer makes a nice single channel addon for the aquaero called the poweradjust. They can be mounted with an optional triple unit faceplate, or hidden away.*

Will I be able to correctly change the speeds of non-pwm fans?

*yep but the setup is complex for the less intelligent owners like myself







*


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ironsmack*
> 
> What does the "hold minimum power" do?
> 
> Does the controller holds the minimum values until it needs to ramp up?
> 
> Example:
> 
> I have the controller use a curved value to ramp fans from 20% to 90% based on the temp. However, sometimes the temp sensor go below the temp threshold I set it too.
> 
> So, what I want for the controller to do is hold the minimum value (20%) regardless if the temp goes below my temp threshold (6.5 to 12C).
> 
> However, its not doing that. Did I set it up wrong?


A good way to do that is to set the min and max fan power to 20% and 90% ... That way a 1% controller output is still 20%

If you do it all with the controllers then if temps drop below the range you have set then controller output will be zero.

The hold min power box ensures that even with a zero% controller output the fan holds min speed. Without it a 0% controller output is zero even if min power is set higher. A 1% controller output will have the fan running at 20%


----------



## NE0XY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> 
> It is possible to control it via software from the PC right? "Aquasuite" or something?
> 
> *Yes, very nice integration*
> 
> If I want to run more than 4 channels / "fan groups", how do I do that? Is there an extender or something that I buy separately or is it possible to do it without?
> 
> *Aquacomputer makes a nice single channel addon for the aquaero called the poweradjust. They can be mounted with an optional triple unit faceplate, or hidden away.*
> 
> Will I be able to correctly change the speeds of non-pwm fans?
> 
> *yep but the setup is complex for the less intelligent owners like myself
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *


Thank you,
So it IS possible?
What if I ad a voltage regulator or w/e, so it can only go to 5 volts and then just let the aquaero turn it off and on? Is that possible? Coz those fans I only want running at 40-50%.
Would this be easier?


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NE0XY*
> 
> Hi,
> I'm about to invest in one of these and I just have a few questions, the questions have probably been answered before and I apologize if this might be repetitive then, but It's a lot of money and I'd like to be sure before I order it, Thank You.
> 
> The model that I'm thinking about is this one "Aquacomputer Aquaero 6 XT USB Fan Controller"
> 
> It is possible to control it via software from the PC right? "Aquasuite" or something?
> If I want to run more than 4 channels / "fan groups", how do I do that? Is there an extender or something that I buy separately or is it possible to do it without?
> Will I be able to correctly change the speeds of non-pwm fans?
> Thank you
> //NE0XY


1- no the unit operates on its own and has its own cpu.

You use the software to configure the unit however.

2 depends on how you want to do that. Non pwm you can. ( aka by using voltage)

Power adjacent mentioned is one way or by making a slave unit. However I have found even with 50ish fans more then 4 groups is seldom needed. ( make it your own I am just relating my experience )

3- easily. However this controller will take set up. And if you don't understand it. It is quite frustrating. A few posts up I link to the manual. I would recommend reading it


----------



## NE0XY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> 1- no the unit operates on its own and has its own cpu.
> 
> You use the software to configure the unit however.
> 
> 2 depends on how you want to do that. Non pwm you can. ( aka by using voltage)
> 
> Power adjacent mentioned is one way or by making a slave unit. However I have found even with 50ish fans more then 4 groups is seldom needed. ( make it your own I am just relating my experience )
> 
> 3- easily. However this controller will take set up. And if you don't understand it. It is quite frustrating. A few posts up I link to the manual. I would recommend reading it


Thank you, What I meant was, once I have plugged everything in etc, do I have to program it via the controller/the unit or is it possible to make these changes via the software? Sorry if I'm confused =P

How does the "poweradjust 3 USB" work? Do I plug it into the Aquaero and then it'll take controll of it?

Edit: I'll have two sets of fan that I want to be able to go up and down in speed depending on temperature, and another two sets of fan that'll only go to a maximum of 50%, these'll only kick in when I have high temperatures, then one more set for the case fans that I also want to be able to go up and down depending on temperature. Is this something that would be possible?


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NE0XY*
> 
> Thank you, What I meant was, once I have plugged everything in etc, do I have to program it via the controller/the unit or is it possible to make these changes via the software? Sorry if I'm confused =P
> 
> How does the "poweradjust 3 USB" work? Do I plug it into the Aquaero and then it'll take controll of it?
> 
> Edit: I'll have two sets of fan that I want to be able to go up and down in speed depending on temperature, and another two sets of fan that'll only go to a maximum of 50%, these'll only kick in when I have high temperatures, then one more set for the case fans that I also want to be able to go up and down depending on temperature. Is this something that would be possible?


You can do everything you want to do but you need to do a lot more reading and see exactly how and what you want to do?


----------



## Mega Man

Very true
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NE0XY*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> 1- no the unit operates on its own and has its own cpu.
> 
> You use the software to configure the unit however.
> 
> 2 depends on how you want to do that. Non pwm you can. ( aka by using voltage)
> 
> Power adjacent mentioned is one way or by making a slave unit. However I have found even with 50ish fans more then 4 groups is seldom needed. ( make it your own I am just relating my experience )
> 
> 3- easily. However this controller will take set up. And if you don't understand it. It is quite frustrating. A few posts up I link to the manual. I would recommend reading it
> 
> 
> 
> Thank you, What I meant was, once I have plugged everything in etc, do I have to program it via the controller/the unit or is it possible to make these changes via the software? Sorry if I'm confused =P
> 
> How does the "poweradjust 3 USB" work? Do I plug it into the Aquaero and then it'll take controll of it?
> 
> Edit: I'll have two sets of fan that I want to be able to go up and down in speed depending on temperature, and another two sets of fan that'll only go to a maximum of 50%, these'll only kick in when I have high temperatures, then one more set for the case fans that I also want to be able to go up and down depending on temperature. Is this something that would be possible?
Click to expand...

Yes. You would need either a aq5lt or a power adj.

Think of the power adj as another channel.

Once you program it you use the Aqua bus ( think of it as the network pet for the Aquaero ) and it will become another fan channel that the Aquaero controls


----------



## Ironsmack

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> A good way to do that is to set the min and max fan power to 20% and 90% ... That way a 1% controller output is still 20%
> 
> If you do it all with the controllers then if temps drop below the range you have set then controller output will be zero.
> 
> The hold min power box ensures that even with a zero% controller output the fan holds min speed. Without it a 0% controller output is zero even if min power is set higher. A 1% controller output will have the fan running at 20%


Thank you sir! Hopefully this works.

I just realize now, the placement of my other thermal probe (which is another port on my GPU) give my Virtual Temp a wonky reading. Hence the temp keeps ramping up every so often.

I'll switch it eventually. Since its late spring/early summer teardown is coming up soon, ill just wait till then.


----------



## BirdofPrey

I still keep hoping they make a 2-3 fan channel controller that fits in the space of a poweradjust.


----------



## denman

Anyone know where I can order some of the Aqua Computer PWM D5 pumps in the US?


----------



## electro2u

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *denman*
> 
> Anyone know where I can order some of the Aqua Computer PWM D5 pumps in the US?


http://www.aquatuning.us/water-cooling/pumps/d5-series/d5-pumps/19181/aquacomputer-d5-pump-motor-with-pwm-input-and-speed-signal

Will ship from Germany but fast


----------



## RoostrC0gburn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> Very true
> Yes. You would need either a aq5lt or a power adj.
> 
> Think of the power adj as another channel.
> 
> Once you program it you use the Aqua bus ( think of it as the network pet for the Aquaero ) and it will become another fan channel that the Aquaero controls


@Shoggy can you please verify this? i have checked all the poweradjust product info on the aquacomp website, and i see nothing that would indicate that adding a poweradjust is like adding another channel. i have been confused about this for a while, so i am happy to see this conversation crop up. it seems to me that all a poweradjust is designed to do is increase the available power for a given channel. please explain


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RoostrC0gburn*
> 
> @Shoggy can you please verify this? i have checked all the poweradjust product info on the aquacomp website, and i see nothing that would indicate that adding a poweradjust is like adding another channel. i have been confused about this for a while, so i am happy to see this conversation crop up. it seems to me that all a poweradjust is designed to do is increase the available power for a given channel. please explain


A power adjust in a way adds channels!! I have a aq6 and 6 pa2's!! So i have a total of 10 channels! 4 PMW and 6 voltage control!


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

PowerAdjust 3 USB is a single channel controller. It can be used in addition to an Aquaero or by itself.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RoostrC0gburn*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> Very true
> Yes. You would need either a aq5lt or a power adj.
> 
> Think of the power adj as another channel.
> 
> Once you program it you use the Aqua bus ( think of it as the network pet for the Aquaero ) and it will become another fan channel that the Aquaero controls
> 
> 
> 
> @Shoggy can you please verify this? i have checked all the poweradjust product info on the aquacomp website, and i see nothing that would indicate that adding a poweradjust is like adding another channel. i have been confused about this for a while, so i am happy to see this conversation crop up. it seems to me that all a poweradjust is designed to do is increase the available power for a given channel. please explain
Click to expand...

sigh my phone likes to translate for me ... sorry ... pet = port
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> PowerAdjust 3 USB is a single channel controller. It can be used in addition to an Aquaero or by itself.


or used as a slave device to the aquaero that allows the aq to control it


----------



## BirdofPrey

Poweradjust adds a fan channel, a flow meter channel and a temp channel. It has a higher power rating to run pumps, but is still usable for fans.

Again, though, it would be great to have a version that replaces the sensors with more fan channels so you can use just one for a couple more fan groups rather than needing multiples or slaving a second AQ


----------



## Mega Man

i am hoping aq is getting how important pwm is and will sell a pwm " power adj "

i would snag one and a normal power adj for my itx builds

( i dont think this would happen )


----------



## Dagamus NM

Why wouldn't it happen? AQ5 went from one PWM channel to four in the AQ6.


----------



## Mega Man

I don't think they will do it


----------



## BirdofPrey

Well for something running a pump, I'm not sure PWM makes all THAT much sense. The whole point of the poweradjust is it can voltage control higher current stuff like pumps, but PWM stuff, including pumps, don't have the same power dissipation problems and waste heat, so I'm not sure a special controller is even needed for a pump if it's PWM. A 2-3 channel controller in the smaller space being PWM would make some sense, though.


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BirdofPrey*
> 
> Well for something running a pump, I'm not sure PWM makes all THAT much sense. The whole point of the poweradjust is it can voltage control higher current stuff like pumps, but PWM stuff, including pumps, don't have the same power dissipation problems and waste heat, so I'm not sure a special controller is even needed for a pump if it's PWM. A 2-3 channel controller in the smaller space being PWM would make some sense, though.


I would totally go for a PWM poweradjust for running MCP35X pumps. In a short loop, you really need the pump down to 1500rpm or less. I usually use the GPU PWM header on SFF builds for size/space reasons, but it's not ideal since the minimum duty is 30% PWM and I would rather control pump speed by coolant temperature instead of GPU core temps.


----------



## jagdtigger

I just finished building the loop and the flow meter shows 156,9 l/h. Is this normal with a Laing DDC pump?








My loop:
Koolance AR290X
Aquacomputer cuplex kryos pro
Watercool MO-RA3 360 LC
Monsoon Series Two DDC Premium Dual 5.25 Reservoir
2 pair qd3 high flow
16/13 acrylic tubing


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jagdtigger*
> 
> I just finished building the loop and the flow meter shows 156,9 l/h. Is this normal with a Laing DDC pump?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My loop:
> Koolance AR290X
> Aquacomputer cuplex kryos pro
> Watercool MO-RA3 360 LC
> Monsoon Series Two DDC Premium Dual 5.25 Reservoir
> 2 pair qd3 high flow
> 16/13 acrylic tubing


that is about 0.69 GPM. At what setting? Maximum rpm in the ddc? Which ddc? dual pump or single?

In any case given that you have several highly restrictive components (Mo-ra, quick disconect, kryos, and to some extent the koolance block) it might as well be that flow is accurate.

edit - ok, from what I got you have only one ddc 3.1 correct? Here is a test from Martin that shows your readings are on par with a highly restrictive system:

http://martinsliquidlab.i4memory.com/DDC31PumpTopTesting.html


----------



## jagdtigger

Ok, i just found the order confirmation e-mail and the pump is a Laing DDC-Pumpe 12V DDC-1Plus, it running at 100% (~4500 RPM). I dont know which version it is...

If im not mistaken this is in my loop:
http://www.aquatuning.de/wasserkuehlung/pumpen/laing-ddc/ddc-pumpen/5080/laing-ddc-pumpe-12v-ddc-1t-plus


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jagdtigger*
> 
> Ok, i just found the order confirmation e-mail and the pump is a Laing DDC-Pumpe 12V DDC-1Plus, it running at 100% (~4500 RPM). I dont know which version it is...


Yeah. In short I think the flow you got is quite normal mate. Martin test was with different types of tops for the pump you have. You can see in his tests with a highly restrictive test loop he was getting around 0.8-0.7 GPM which is close to what you got.

here is another thread with useful tests for you:

http://www.overclock.net/t/1501978/ocn-community-water-cooling-test-thread

you can see that ddc 1 have around 4.3 PSI at around 0.7 GPM while d5 have around 5 PSI and ddc 3.2 around 5.75 psi. If you subtract the blocks and fittings restriction from those values you might reach the theoretical flow of your loop. You would need to dig for p-q curves for each block/rad. but I would risk saying your readings seems quite normal to me.


----------



## jagdtigger

Ok, thanks







.


----------



## blzn57

Hello to the club, Aquaero 6XT should be here Tuesday...so pumped!! I have searched and searched and really never found a great answer to my question so here i am....

I would like to hook up 3 Delta AFB1212SHE-PWM 120x38mm Super High Speed 4-Pin PWM Fans via one PWM fan header on the A6. They run at 12.6watts max so running all 3 will not work without getting the power from the PSU(Seasonic P1200, so power should not be a problem) or a PA but was hoping not to have to go that route.

The only thread i found is this one *here*

which says it is possible but never really go into details if the RPM can then be controlled, same rpm for all 3 fans via A6XT

i would be using these splitters for the PWM fans, Akasa FLEXA FP3S PWM Fan Splitter Cable - 30cm

Also, these are SATA powered, not molex, does that make any difference?

Any help or advice would be greatly appreciated....i would be running this same setup on 2 of the PWM fan channels

Thank you!


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *blzn57*
> 
> Hello to the club, Aquaero 6XT should be here Tuesday...so pumped!! I have searched and searched and really never found a great answer to my question so here i am....
> 
> I would like to hook up 3 Delta AFB1212SHE-PWM 120x38mm Super High Speed 4-Pin PWM Fans via one PWM fan header on the A6. They run at 12.6watts max so running all 3 will not work without getting the power from the PSU(Seasonic P1200, so power should not be a problem) or a PA but was hoping not to have to go that route.
> 
> The only thread i found is this one *here*
> 
> which says it is possible but never really go into details if the RPM can then be controlled, same rpm for all 3 fans via A6XT
> 
> i would be using these splitters for the PWM fans, Akasa FLEXA FP3S PWM Fan Splitter Cable - 30cm
> 
> Also, these are SATA powered, not molex, does that make any difference?
> 
> Any help or advice would be greatly appreciated....i would be running this same setup on 2 of the PWM fan channels
> 
> Thank you!


That should work fine, just as you have it planned.

The splitter will have only one fan connector with a tach wire connected, so be sure to plug a fan into that one first. . . . it should be marked for easy identification

Getting power from the PSU via the SATA connector is no problem

You'll need to make sure you set up in Aquasuite to control the appropriate channels via PWM.

Darlene


----------



## blzn57

Thank you for the quick response Darlene!! With all your different post and that i have read via this forum I am pretty confident in hooking up the A6XT without even having it in my hands yet...that would not be possible without this thread and your awesome advice...thank you!!


----------



## denman

I have a question. I am going to be starting my first loop soon using a A5Pro. I will be using GT AP-15 fans and wanted to control these based on the temps of the loop. What would be a good sensor to use for this (never used sensors like this)?


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *denman*
> 
> I have a question. I am going to be starting my first loop soon using a A5Pro. I will be using GT AP-15 fans and wanted to control these based on the temps of the loop. What would be a good sensor to use for this (never used sensors like this)?


I use a sensor on the rad and another one on the intake of the case to have a delta of the two temperatures. So, if this said delta start to increase so it does my fans. For the air sensor one of the 4 that comes with Aquaero is just fine. For the water temp use either an inline sensor or if you have spare ports a sensor cap like bitspower.


----------



## Mega Man

anyone else having issues getting to nams guide


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> anyone else having issues getting to nams guide


yeah not active. Most likely related to the fact that specialtech is now closed. Hey @nornam any chance of hosting the guides at other place? Perhaps extremerigs will be of help here (@stren)


----------



## Shoggy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RoostrC0gburn*
> 
> @Shoggy can you please verify this? i have checked all the poweradjust product info on the aquacomp website, and i see nothing that would indicate that adding a poweradjust is like adding another channel. i have been confused about this for a while, so i am happy to see this conversation crop up. it seems to me that all a poweradjust is designed to do is increase the available power for a given channel. please explain


When you connect a poweradjust 2/3 to the aquaero via aquabus it will act as a new fan channel. The aquaero will show a 5th, 6th... fan channel which offers the same settings as the regular four fan channels. You can connect up to eight poweradjust controllers. The standard variant will be fine in this case because the ultra variant offer no advantage when used via aquabus.


----------



## Nornam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> anyone else having issues getting to nams guide


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> yeah not active. Most likely related to the fact that specialtech is now closed. Hey @nornam any chance of hosting the guides at other place? Perhaps extremerigs will be of help here (@stren)


Hiya Chaps

Sorry for late reply, Yep your right Gab all my guides went down the shoot with Specialtech I'm afraid







.. I do have back ups of the originals on my home server & I do also have my own site I set up some time ago (Just as a back up really in case anything went wrong e.t.c with me hosting my guides on ST forum).. OK so that's the good news!!!







...

Unfortunately!!!.. The bad news is just recently, about 4 weeks ago or maybe 5 weeks I had a fall, & because of my Cancer & treatment my bones are a wee bit brittle, Anyway, when I had my little stumble & fall I unfortunately Badly broke my left leg near the top by the ball at and of leg (Femure bone) which has meant I've had to have the whole top part of the femure replaced by metal & It also means I am unable to walk at all yet without the aid of a "Go Faster" Zimmer frame & have to spend most my time laid out in bed







..

I've only been home a week after spending nigh on 3 weeks in hospital & so it came as a complete shock when I was informed by one of my friends from the ST forums that they had folded & were now gone.. Now although I have said I do have all my reviews & guides backed up & most are on my own site forum, Unfortunately my site is not totally up to date.... I do plan on going over things, to update the site & then to update my guides e.t.c but it's going to take me time to get to the stage were I'm able to get this all done I'm afraid







...
I need to be able to get to my main Pc which holds all my software & back ups e.t.c, Which I'm guessing will take another 3 or 4 weeks before I'll be able to manage the stairs e.t.c to get to it all...

As I have said, I do want to get my guides back up & running ASAP & upto date & I will do this from my own site, which if people want to check out (as some guides are still up there, they might not all be right up to date) can be found here:- *NAMS GUDES* .. Now please note... This is only a very basic web site I began setting up a while ago now & is my very first foray into doing my own site & as I said it needs a lot of updating which will get done as soon as I can manage it & so those that do go visit are just going to have to put up with what they get until I can begin to change things OK







... So you have been warned







....

All the best

Nam...


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nornam*
> 
> Hiya Chaps
> 
> Sorry for late reply, Yep your right Gab all my guides went down the shoot with Specialtech I'm afraid
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .. I do have back ups of the originals on my home server & I do also have my own site I set up some time ago (Just as a back up really in case anything went wrong e.t.c with me hosting my guides on ST forum).. OK so that's the good news!!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ...
> 
> Unfortunately!!!.. The bad news is just recently, about 4 weeks ago or maybe 5 weeks I had a fall, & because of my Cancer & treatment my bones are a wee bit brittle, Anyway, when I had my little stumble & fall I unfortunately Badly broke my left leg near the top by the ball at and of leg (Femure bone) which has meant I've had to have the whole top part of the femure replaced by metal & It also means I am unable to walk at all yet without the aid of a "Go Faster" Zimmer frame & have to spend most my time laid out in bed
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ..
> 
> I've only been home a week after spending nigh on 3 weeks in hospital & so it came as a complete shock when I was informed by one of my friends from the ST forums that they had folded & were now gone.. Now although I have said I do have all my reviews & guides backed up & most are on my own site forum, Unfortunately my site is not totally up to date.... I do plan on going over things, to update the site & then to update my guides e.t.c but it's going to take me time to get to the stage were I'm able to get this all done I'm afraid
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ...
> I need to be able to get to my main Pc which holds all my software & back ups e.t.c, Which I'm guessing will take another 3 or 4 weeks before I'll be able to manage the stairs e.t.c to get to it all...
> 
> As I have said, I do want to get my guides back up & running ASAP & upto date & I will do this from my own site, which if people want to check out (as some guides are still up there, they might not all be right up to date) can be found here:- *NAMS GUDES* .. Now please note... This is only a very basic web site I began setting up a while ago now & is my very first foray into doing my own site & as I said it needs a lot of updating which will get done as soon as I can manage it & so those that do go visit are just going to have to put up with what they get until I can begin to change things OK
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ... So you have been warned
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ....
> 
> All the best
> 
> Nam...


Nam, first and foremost take your time on the healing and take good care of yourself mate. Yeah, I was sad about specialtech too. In regard to the guides for the Aquaero folk they are there in your site and thank you very much for giving us a heads up.

all the best wishes mate

Gabriel


----------



## RoostrC0gburn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> When you connect a poweradjust 2/3 to the aquaero via aquabus it will act as a new fan channel. The aquaero will show a 5th, 6th... fan channel which offers the same settings as the regular four fan channels. You can connect up to eight poweradjust controllers. The standard variant will be fine in this case because the ultra variant offer no advantage when used via aquabus.


thanks for the response, @Shoggy. there were some previous comments that the additional channels that a power adjust has to offer are _voltage control only_. is this also true? i would like to be able to control 6 pwm channels from one AQ6 Pro without having to slave another AQ. is this possible? or will it be possible in the future?


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Poweradjust is not PWM capable. If you want extra PWM channels you'll have to slave another Aquaero.


----------



## Mega Man

You can easily control 6 fans but even if you slave a aq6. You are limited to voltage control only ( unless something had changed. )

You just won't have 6 different channels ( multiple fans per channels)
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nornam*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> anyone else having issues getting to nams guide
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> yeah not active. Most likely related to the fact that specialtech is now closed. Hey @nornam any chance of hosting the guides at other place? Perhaps extremerigs will be of help here (@stren)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Hiya Chaps
> 
> Sorry for late reply, Yep your right Gab all my guides went down the shoot with Specialtech I'm afraid
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .. I do have back ups of the originals on my home server & I do also have my own site I set up some time ago (Just as a back up really in case anything went wrong e.t.c with me hosting my guides on ST forum).. OK so that's the good news!!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ...
> 
> Unfortunately!!!.. The bad news is just recently, about 4 weeks ago or maybe 5 weeks I had a fall, & because of my Cancer & treatment my bones are a wee bit brittle, Anyway, when I had my little stumble & fall I unfortunately Badly broke my left leg near the top by the ball at and of leg (Femure bone) which has meant I've had to have the whole top part of the femure replaced by metal & It also means I am unable to walk at all yet without the aid of a "Go Faster" Zimmer frame & have to spend most my time laid out in bed
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ..
> 
> I've only been home a week after spending nigh on 3 weeks in hospital & so it came as a complete shock when I was informed by one of my friends from the ST forums that they had folded & were now gone.. Now although I have said I do have all my reviews & guides backed up & most are on my own site forum, Unfortunately my site is not totally up to date.... I do plan on going over things, to update the site & then to update my guides e.t.c but it's going to take me time to get to the stage were I'm able to get this all done I'm afraid
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ...
> I need to be able to get to my main Pc which holds all my software & back ups e.t.c, Which I'm guessing will take another 3 or 4 weeks before I'll be able to manage the stairs e.t.c to get to it all...
> 
> As I have said, I do want to get my guides back up & running ASAP & upto date & I will do this from my own site, which if people want to check out (as some guides are still up there, they might not all be right up to date) can be found here:- *NAMS GUDES* .. Now please note... This is only a very basic web site I began setting up a while ago now & is my very first foray into doing my own site & as I said it needs a lot of updating which will get done as soon as I can manage it & so those that do go visit are just going to have to put up with what they get until I can begin to change things OK
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ... So you have been warned
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ....
> 
> All the best
> 
> Nam...
Click to expand...

Get better

thanks so much for your guides


----------



## Nomadskid

I'm not sure what to do with all of my Temp probes,I have one as ambient, what do you guys recommend?


----------



## Artah

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nomadskid*
> 
> I'm not sure what to do with all of my Temp probes,I have one as ambient, what do you guys recommend?


You could tape one to the GPU water block and another to the CPU block. Or get some water temp sensors. I'm currently watching the GPU, Pump and CPU water exhaust temps for the fun of it. I also taped one to my hard disk.


----------



## Shoggy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Poweradjust is not PWM capable. If you want extra PWM channels you'll have to slave another Aquaero.


...which would also not work because a second aquaero LT - no matter if it is a series 5 or 6 board - as slave device can only do voltage control. To be exact: it just "fakes" four poweradjust controllers which is also the reason why you can add only four of them as soon as you connect another aquaero as slave device.


----------



## Nornam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Nam, first and foremost take your time on the healing and take good care of yourself mate. Yeah, I was sad about specialtech too. In regard to the guides for the Aquaero folk they are there in your site and thank you very much for giving us a heads up.
> 
> all the best wishes mate
> 
> Gabriel


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> Get better
> 
> thanks so much for your guides


Thank you Gab & Mega Man appreciate it muchly







... As I said I do plan on updating things on my site guides for the Aquaero e.t.c, In fact I have already ordered a couple of AQ 6 XT's, 4 x New USB 3's & a couple of the new Faberwerks along with various lengths of RGB leads & also a couple of other things that I can then add to the guides e.t.c as soon as I'm able (& AC get things back in stock, seem to be some long waiting times for certain Items on their web shop







)...

All the best

Nam...


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> ...which would also not work because a second aquaero LT - no matter if it is a series 5 or 6 board - as slave device can only do voltage control. To be exact: it just "fakes" four poweradjust controllers which is also the reason why you can add only four of them as soon as you connect another aquaero as slave device.


Is it possible to connect two Aquaero 6 units to separate USB headers and then have them work independently but yet be controlled using the same temperature sensors on Aquasuite?


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Is it possible to connect two Aquaero 6 units to separate USB headers and then have them work independently but yet be controlled using the same temperature sensors on Aquasuite?


No mate, I am afraid not. I have two aquaeros in chessboard: an AQ 6 xt and an AQ 5 lt. Since the controller is created within the Aquaero tab itself you can not grab a fan channel from A6 6 for example and control it using the controller created on the 5 (or vice versa). For my rig is ok since one handle the cpu loop and the other the gpu loop and a mix water and air sensor in both loops to both aquaeros so I can replicate the controller on both Aquaeros with similar temps deltas. It works but is more costly...Slaving is not an alternative either since you loose the PWM fan header on the slaved aquaero. I wish AQ would do poweradjust with PWM fan header capability....


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> No mate, I am afraid not. I have two aquaeros in chessboard: an AQ 6 xt and an AQ 5 lt. Since the controller is created within the Aquaero tab itself you can not grab a fan channel from A6 6 for example and control it using the controller created on the 5 (or vice versa). For my rig is ok since one handle the cpu loop and the other the gpu loop and a mix water and air sensor in both loops to both aquaeros so I can replicate the controller on both Aquaeros with similar temps deltas. It works but is more costly...Slaving is not an alternative either since you loose the PWM fan header on the slaved aquaero. I wish AQ would do poweradjust with PWM fan header capability....


Thanks man, yeah I might end up having to do the same- one for each loop. Just that with 3 loops in there it is not very conducive


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> No mate, I am afraid not. I have two aquaeros in chessboard: an AQ 6 xt and an AQ 5 lt. Since the controller is created within the Aquaero tab itself you can not grab a fan channel from A6 6 for example and control it using the controller created on the 5 (or vice versa). For my rig is ok since one handle the cpu loop and the other the gpu loop and a mix water and air sensor in both loops to both aquaeros so I can replicate the controller on both Aquaeros with similar temps deltas. It works but is more costly...Slaving is not an alternative either since you loose the PWM fan header on the slaved aquaero. I wish AQ would do poweradjust with PWM fan header capability....
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks man, yeah I might end up having to do the same- one for each loop. Just that with 3 loops in there it is not very conducive
Click to expand...

But they look so at home in a Caselabs, when you have a triple header . . .











Darlene


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> But they look so at home in a Caselabs, when you have a triple header . . .
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Darlene


My measly grad student stipend disagrees


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> But they look so at home in a Caselabs, when you have a triple header . . .
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Darlene
> 
> 
> 
> My measly grad student stipend disagrees
Click to expand...

But you're the one with a Caselabs big enough to sublet an apartment in . . . .









Maybe you can get AC to sponsor you one . .

D.


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> But you're the one with a Caselabs big enough to sublet an apartment in . . . .
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Maybe you can get AC to sponsor you one . .
> 
> D.


Most of that build is composed of items obtained at a great deal or as review items, other than the hardware itself which of course is out of my wallet. As far as AC goes, seeing how my reviewing is taking time out of the build I don't know if it is fair to ask for sponsored build items with no end necessarily in sight.


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Most of that build is composed of items obtained at a great deal or as review items, other than the hardware itself which of course is out of my wallet. As far as AC goes, seeing how my reviewing is taking time out of the build I don't know if it is fair to ask for sponsored build items with no end necessarily in sight.


Tx10 is the hardest case to build in!!! If you want to do some thing show quailty!! Better with this case to just build!!!!

You can do all you want with 2 AQ's and power adjust!! I was going to control 9 channels of fans and a tec chiller!!!


----------



## RoostrC0gburn

apparently not. Anyone have suggestions for 6 PWM channels?
(not 6 fans, 6 separate channels)


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RoostrC0gburn*
> 
> apparently not. Anyone have suggestions for 6 PWM channels?
> (not 6 fans, 6 separate channels)


Two A6's?

How do you actually need to break down the channels . . could the mobo handle two of the channel tasks so just one A6 is needed?

If neither of those ideas would work, being the thread's resident electronics nerd, I'd just build whatever I needed if it was basic enough that a second A6 just couldn't be justified.

Darlene


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Two A6's?
> 
> How do you actually need to break down the channels . . could the mobo handle two of the channel tasks so just one A6 is needed?
> 
> If neither of those ideas would work, being the thread's resident electronics nerd, I'd just build whatever I needed if it was basic enough that a second A6 just couldn't be justified.
> 
> Darlene


Yes it will work just shows as 2 seperate devices in software so have to be carefull what is hooked to each one


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> ...which would also not work because a second aquaero LT - no matter if it is a series 5 or 6 board - as slave device can only do voltage control. To be exact: it just "fakes" four poweradjust controllers which is also the reason why you can add only four of them as soon as you connect another aquaero as slave device.
> 
> 
> 
> Is it possible to connect two Aquaero 6 units to separate USB headers and then have them work independently but yet be controlled using the same temperature sensors on Aquasuite?
Click to expand...

kind of,

it depends, HWinfo will show one of the aqs ( not both ) then you could program that aq to make the temps / have the temp sensors

then use that temp sensor on aq2 as a software sensor,

but imo wouldnt easiest be to run individual sensors to the individual loops and then make a delta temp for both .


----------



## iCrap

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Poweradjust is not PWM capable. If you want extra PWM channels you'll have to slave another Aquaero.


You can slave an Aquero to another Aquero? I didn't even know this.... Can you do a 5 slaved to a 6?


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iCrap*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Poweradjust is not PWM capable. If you want extra PWM channels you'll have to slave another Aquaero.
> 
> 
> 
> You can slave an Aquero to another Aquero? I didn't even know this.... Can you do a 5 slaved to a 6?
Click to expand...

When you slave one Aq to another, it looses the PWM capability of the slaved one.

Slaving a 5LT to a 6 series is pretty common, but you are limited to voltage control only from the 5 LT, it looses the PWM capability on the 1 channel that otherwise has it.

D.


----------



## Mega Man

You can also do a aq6 to aq6.

But iirc you have to remove the screen ( the bonus is the lack of heat production although now the poweradj3 are out it may not be worth it)


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

I'm surprised that a slaved Aquaero loses it's pwm capability. That I obviously did not know. I stand corrected.

What a shame though. Seems like it wouldn't/shouldn't have to be like that. .


----------



## Gabrielzm

I think it should be possible ( it would be nice) on Aquasuite to use all devices in a more unified way. Example in question. Wound not be nice if you have two aquaeros connected via USB (each one individually so not slaved) and then you could create a common controller under Aquasuite main tab which would see all fan header 4 x 2 as one thing? A sort of virtual aquaero. Not sure how easy would that be to implement but seems doable from a purely user perspective.


----------



## supermiguel

@IT Diva what kind of flow are you getting on your big system? (reading from your aquaro 6)


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *supermiguel*
> 
> @IT Diva what kind of flow are you getting on your big system? (reading from your aquaro 6)


I don't use the A6 for flow, at least not with any of the AC flow sensors.

I've been using the Koolance flowmeters, both the turbine sensor and integrated display frequency adapter module for a good while, and can't imagine trading that small footprint turbine sensor for the brick you need from AC.

The freq adapter has a rpm display compatible output as well as the integrated display, so if I have an extra fan channel on an Aquaero, it can display the flow there, directly in ml/m, and then use that variable with a controller if desired.

As far as flow rates, I make sure I have enough pump power designed in to give me a ~1.5gpm minimum at full pump rpm.

Just don't use the Koolance sensor with Aurora.

Darlene


----------



## blzn57

Well it has arrived....Aquaero 6XT!! i cant wait to get some testing going but i do a few questions before I start. Like many others the clear screen is not flush with the face plate...see pic



I know this is common, but first of all will it work as is? Then to fix it do i take off the metal face plate and take a little off that edge to make the screen fit? I thought I saw something about Aquacomputer sending you a new screen or face plate?? What is the easiest best way to go for those who have had to do this.

Part 2....Anybody using koolance pump base with Aquacomputer D5 PWM pump? See pic below... the problem is the back-plate of the pump will not fit because of the aquabus and other connections on the AQ D5. There seems to be a little gap now between the pump and the casing where the back plate would usually fill in. Do i need it on? Seems like i would, as soon as power is applied it seems like it would push it out against the back of the pump casing.



Just wondering if anybody has any thoughts or suggestions, seems like you would run into this with most the aftermarket pump covers and the AQ D5 pump.

Thank you in advance!


----------



## RoostrC0gburn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Two A6's?
> 
> How do you actually need to break down the channels . . could the mobo handle two of the channel tasks so just one A6 is needed?
> 
> If neither of those ideas would work, being the thread's resident electronics nerd, I'd just build whatever I needed if it was basic enough that a second A6 just couldn't be justified.
> 
> Darlene


yeah, the mobo fan headers support pwm, and if I use swiftech pwm splitters there is effectively no use for an aquaero - but what's the fun in that?
hopefully some of this feedback will make it back to Germany soon...


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RoostrC0gburn*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Two A6's?
> 
> How do you actually need to break down the channels . . could the mobo handle two of the channel tasks so just one A6 is needed?
> 
> If neither of those ideas would work, being the thread's resident electronics nerd, I'd just build whatever I needed if it was basic enough that a second A6 just couldn't be justified.
> 
> Darlene
> 
> 
> 
> yeah, the mobo fan headers support pwm, and if I use swiftech pwm splitters there is effectively no use for an aquaero - but what's the fun in that?
> hopefully some of this feedback will make it back to Germany soon...
Click to expand...

I'd use the mobo for that which doesn't need very sophisticated control, so that the A6 is available for the things that do.

D.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *blzn57*
> 
> Well it has arrived....Aquaero 6XT!! i cant wait to get some testing going but i do a few questions before I start. Like many others the clear screen is not flush with the face plate...see pic
> 
> 
> 
> I know this is common, but first of all will it work as is? Then to fix it do i take off the metal face plate and take a little off that edge to make the screen fit? I thought I saw something about Aquacomputer sending you a new screen or face plate?? What is the easiest best way to go for those who have had to do this.
> 
> Part 2....Anybody using koolance pump base with Aquacomputer D5 PWM pump? See pic below... the problem is the back-plate of the pump will not fit because of the aquabus and other connections on the AQ D5. There seems to be a little gap now between the pump and the casing where the back plate would usually fill in. Do i need it on? Seems like i would, as soon as power is applied it seems like it would push it out against the back of the pump casing.
> 
> 
> 
> Just wondering if anybody has any thoughts or suggestions, seems like you would run into this with most the aftermarket pump covers and the AQ D5 pump.
> 
> Thank you in advance!


Yes any casing that would envelop the d5 usb model (not PWM mind you) would have that sort of problem due to the connectors on the back. You don't need that backplate for the koolance top to work. I have the top, mounted the d5 usb on it and tested almost a year ago. It worked just fine but I can not give you any long term reliability on this subject because in the end the ek top made it to my pc. If you are still unsure contact koolance support. BTW you turned the pump on with water in the pump on a test bench correct?


----------



## blzn57

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Yes any casing that would envelop the d5 usb model (not PWM mind you) would have that sort of problem due to the connectors on the back. You don't need that backplate for the koolance top to work. I have the top, mounted the d5 usb on it and tested almost a year ago. It worked just fine but I can not give you any long term reliability on this subject because in the end the ek top made it to my pc. If you are still unsure contact koolance support. BTW you turned the pump on with water in the pump on a test bench correct?


Thanks for the feedback! I have access to a ban saw so i think I an just going to cut out the space for the aquabus connections in the back-plate.

And no, i did not run the D5 dry, actually didn't even get it tested out yet. Hopefully over the next couple days or so. This is my first water cooling build so as much as i thought i was prepared, getting the supplies and laying it all out was a little over whelming so i spent the night going through and making sure i had everything and going over the details before I dive in.

Thanks again!


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *blzn57*
> 
> Thanks for the feedback! I have access to a ban saw so i think I an just going to cut out the space for the aquabus connections in the back-plate.
> 
> And no, i did not run the D5 dry, actually didn't even get it tested out yet. Hopefully over the next couple days or so. This is my first water cooling build so as much as i thought i was prepared, getting the supplies and laying it all out was a little over whelming so i spent the night going through and making sure i had everything and going over the details before I dive in.
> 
> Thanks again!


cutting will be a nice solution. I asked about running the pump because your post give me the impression you already fire up and saw movement of the pump to the back of the casing which I found odd. Re-reading your post now I understood was a concern you have. Be assure that nothing of the sorts will happen since I run that very same pump in that same top on my test bench for a while. The pump is hold in place by the neck on the top (along with the o-ring). But yeah, for the looks will be cool to hack the plate to fit the connector headers on the back.


----------



## Dagamus NM

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *blzn57*
> 
> Thanks for the feedback! I have access to a ban saw so i think I an just going to cut out the space for the aquabus connections in the back-plate.
> 
> And no, i did not run the D5 dry, actually didn't even get it tested out yet. Hopefully over the next couple days or so. This is my first water cooling build so as much as i thought i was prepared, getting the supplies and laying it all out was a little over whelming so i spent the night going through and making sure i had everything and going over the details before I dive in.
> 
> Thanks again!


I don't think a band saw is a good idea here. You would be much better off with a drill press and a vise.


----------



## Shoggy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *blzn57*
> 
> I thought I saw something about Aquacomputer sending you a new screen or face plate??


It is the whole front (touch controller, glass and stainless steel cover). Just send us an e-mail or PM with your address to get a new one.


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *blzn57*
> 
> Part 2....Anybody using koolance pump base with Aquacomputer D5 PWM pump? See pic below... the problem is the back-plate of the pump will not fit because of the aquabus and other connections on the AQ D5. There seems to be a little gap now between the pump and the casing where the back plate would usually fill in. Do i need it on? Seems like i would, as soon as power is applied it seems like it would push it out against the back of the pump casing.
> 
> 
> 
> Just wondering if anybody has any thoughts or suggestions, seems like you would run into this with most the aftermarket pump covers and the AQ D5 pump.
> 
> Thank you in advance!


The pump is held against the pump top by the shoulder on the front of the pump. The rear section doesn't matter.


----------



## RoostrC0gburn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> I'd use the mobo for that which doesn't need very sophisticated control, so that the A6 is available for the things that do.
> 
> D.


without access to the aquacomputer standard for the aquabus protocol, i think it may prove too difficult to prototype a pwm controller that can be fully integrated into aquasuite. however, i think it would be exceedingly interesting to scope the bus and see what's really going on. my guess is that it's similar to i2c. @IT Diva have you tried this yet?


----------



## blzn57

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> The pump is held against the pump top by the ledge on the front of the pump. The rear section doesn't matter.


Ya, after looking at it a little more you are correct it does not need the back plate...I have had it in a bench setup for the last half hour...so far so good!!

Thank you!


----------



## NE0XY

Hi,

Sorry for being so confused but I'm in the final stages of plannig and I don't want to end up not satisfied with my expensive Aquaero.
I'm looking at the Aquaero 6 XT and I have a total of 8 PWM fans that I want going between 40-100% on one channel, then 8 additional fans (3pin) that I want offline for the most time but, should go up to max 50% when temps reach a high enough temperature. and then an additional 3 fans (3pin) that I don't really care about.
Is this something that I can set up being a noob on the aquaero? I'm guessing the 3pin fans are the problem?

Thank you


----------



## Turbz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NE0XY*
> 
> Hi,
> 
> Sorry for being so confused but I'm in the final stages of plannig and I don't want to end up not satisfied with my expensive Aquaero.
> I'm looking at the Aquaero 6 XT and I have a total of 8 PWM fans that I want going between 40-100% on one channel, then 8 additional fans (3pin) that I want offline for the most time but, should go up to max 50% when temps reach a high enough temperature. and then an additional 3 fans (3pin) that I don't really care about.
> Is this something that I can set up being a noob on the aquaero? I'm guessing the 3pin fans are the problem?
> 
> Thank you


The Aquaero 6 is exactly the right controller to do this. You can run either PWM or voltage controlled fans on each channel (but not both on one channel). You can set up fan curves in the Aquasuite software to set your fans to change speed based on any monitored value - temperature, in your case.

The learning curve is steep but once you have your hands on it and spend some time with it and Aquasuite, you'll be able to configure exactly the setup above. The manual is comprehensive.


----------



## NE0XY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Turbz*
> 
> The Aquaero 6 is exactly the right controller to do this. You can run either PWM or voltage controlled fans on each channel (but not both on one channel). You can set up fan curves in the Aquasuite software to set your fans to change speed based on any monitored value - temperature, in your case.
> 
> The learning curve is steep but once you have your hands on it and spend some time with it and Aquasuite, you'll be able to configure exactly the setup above. The manual is comprehensive.


Thank you, I just wanted to know if it was possible =)


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NE0XY*
> 
> Thank you, I just wanted to know if it was possible =)


Yep. As a general guide set up your fans in the AQ6 channels as either PWM or power controlled (fans tab in aquasuite). Notice you have the option here in Aquasuite to define the minimum and maximum value for each fan which is handy. Then go to the controller tab and create a controller (there are several options here but start with a curve controller). On the left side define the temp of the controller (sensor). On the right side add the fan channels you want in that controller. In the curve itself define the type of control you want playing with the curve itself. done. repeat the process for the other type of fan.


----------



## NE0XY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Yep. As a general guide set up your fans in the AQ6 channels as either PWM or power controlled (fans tab in aquasuite). Notice you have the option here in Aquasuite to define the minimum and maximum value for each fan which is handy. Then go to the controller tab and create a controller (there are several options here but start with a curve controller). On the left side define the temp of the controller (sensor). On the right side add the fan channels you want in that controller. In the curve itself define the type of control you want playing with the curve itself. done. repeat the process for the other type of fan.


Thank you very much =D

I'll probably make my order this weekend =)
Is the passive heatsink necessary?


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NE0XY*
> 
> Thank you very much =D
> 
> I'll probably make my order this weekend =)
> Is the passive heatsink necessary?


for the Aquaero 6 no. But if you want will not hurt and looks good. I have the black one with the old aq5 heatsink painted white on top of it just for the looks. The controller temps stays between 35 and 40 C with several fans on each channel.



the aq5 however does need the heatsink or even the waterblock.


----------



## NE0XY

Thanks =)


----------



## Ironsmack

I have a question for anyone using 2 different temp probe (1 measuring the ambient temp outside and your loop temp), how much of difference are you seeing with ambient temp vs loop temp (idle and load)?

My ambient temp is 27.xx C and my loop temp is (idle = 30.xx and load = 35.xx + C).

Is that normal?


----------



## 47 Knucklehead

I have a question on controlling a number of fans (8 on one channel, and 6 on another) via the AQ6. I know that it will work with a simple 9 way 3-pin "Y" cable and as I increase or decrease the voltage via the AQ6, ALL the fans will speed up or slow down, and I even get an RPM reading back.

My question is this, does anyone know if the blocks from ModMyToys will do the exact same thing? I pretty much assume they will allow me to put power to all 6 or 8 3-pin connectors, but I am wondering if the RPM line is brought back too (or can be easily modified)?

I'm looking at a pair of the MMT-PCB-4-83 boards.



Normally you would put a standard 4-pin molex in the one end and it would provide 12V to the 8 3-pin fan connectors. I'm just wondering if there is a way to make a custom cable from the 4-pin Molex to a 3-pin fan connector to plug into the AQ6 and get the RPM signal?

If anyone else has any other suggestions, I'd love to hear.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ironsmack*
> 
> I have a question for anyone using 2 different temp probe (1 measuring the ambient temp outside and your loop temp), how much of difference are you seeing with ambient temp vs loop temp (idle and load)?
> 
> My ambient temp is 27.xx C and my loop temp is (idle = 30.xx and load = 35.xx + C).
> 
> Is that normal?


pretty much mate. Notice too that sometimes the air temp goes up when system is been under load. This is beacuse the heat from the case starts to affect you amb. temps too. Also load can be quite variable. If you play a light game like war thunder I see a 2 or 3 delta under load but if I play dying ligth that can reach 8 C. So, yes, 3 degrees idle and 8 degrees C delta udner load are pretty normal and in fact would say are good deltas.

@47 Knucklehead If I am not mistaken on that particular board you would need to cut the rpm signal pin from all the headers except one.


----------



## Ironsmack

@47 Knucklehead correct me if I'm wrong, but if a 3 pin is connected to a 4 pin molex, wouldn't that run at 12v? Unless there's a resistor in the cable to limit the voltage to the fan.

Personally, I have used the dazmode 3 pin Y (P/P) ext on both my rad's and been working for 1+ years without any glitch.

There might be other y cable for P/P, but dazmode has been the only one that's reliable (and cheaper) than the other ones.

@GabrielzmCool, thank you sir!


----------



## 47 Knucklehead

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ironsmack*
> 
> ^^correct me if I'm wrong, but if a 3 pin is connected to a 4 pin molex, wouldn't that run at 12v? Unless there's a resistor in the cable to limit the voltage to the fan.
> 
> Personally, I have used the dazmode 3 pin Y (P/P) ext on both my rad's and been working for 1+ years without any glitch.
> 
> There might be other y cable for P/P, but dazmode has been the only one that's reliable (and cheaper) than the other ones.


Yes, but I was just looking to use the 4-pin molex to interface to the 3-pin connectors.

For example pin 1 of all 8 of the 3-pin connectors going to pin 1 of the molex. pin 2 of all 8 of the 3-pin connectors going to pin 2 of the molex. pin 3 of all 8 of the 3-pin connectors going to pin 3 of the molex.

Then I could make an adapter cable from the 4-pin molex to the Aquaero and have it control the voltage from 0V to 12V ... but the real question is ... is the RPM ling on those 3-pin connectors brought to the 4-pin molex so I can monitor the RPM of the fans?


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *47 Knucklehead*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ironsmack*
> 
> ^^correct me if I'm wrong, but if a 3 pin is connected to a 4 pin molex, wouldn't that run at 12v? Unless there's a resistor in the cable to limit the voltage to the fan.
> 
> Personally, I have used the dazmode 3 pin Y (P/P) ext on both my rad's and been working for 1+ years without any glitch.
> 
> There might be other y cable for P/P, but dazmode has been the only one that's reliable (and cheaper) than the other ones.
> 
> 
> 
> Yes, but I was just looking to use the 4-pin molex to interface to the 3-pin connectors.
> 
> For example pin 1 of all 8 of the 3-pin connectors going to pin 1 of the molex. pin 2 of all 8 of the 3-pin connectors going to pin 2 of the molex. pin 3 of all 8 of the 3-pin connectors going to pin 3 of the molex.
> 
> Then I could make an adapter cable from the 4-pin molex to the Aquaero and have it control the voltage from 0V to 12V ... *but the real question is ... is the RPM ling on those 3-pin connectors brought to the 4-pin molex so I can monitor the RPM of the fans*?
Click to expand...

I'd bet anything it is not . . . . . to prevent possible damage if a PSU molex connector is plugged into it.

But no reason you couldn't just add a jumper from the tach pin to the 5V pin, or second ground pin if it's unused, and use that to the tach pin on the 3 pin at the A6.

You'll pretty much have to buy one and look at the board traces


----------



## 47 Knucklehead

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> I'd bet anything it is not . . . . . to prevent possible damage if a PSU molex connector is plugged into it.
> 
> But no reason you couldn't just add a jumper from the tach pin to the 5V pin, or second ground pin if it's unused, and use that to the tach pin on the 3 pin at the A6.
> 
> You'll pretty much have to buy one and look at the board traces


Yeah, that is what I was thinking, but I was wondering if someone already saved me the foot work.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *47 Knucklehead*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> I'd bet anything it is not . . . . . to prevent possible damage if a PSU molex connector is plugged into it.
> 
> But no reason you couldn't just add a jumper from the tach pin to the 5V pin, or second ground pin if it's unused, and use that to the tach pin on the 3 pin at the A6.
> 
> You'll pretty much have to buy one and look at the board traces
> 
> 
> 
> Yeah, that is what I was thinking, but I was wondering if someone already saved me the foot work.
Click to expand...

I have a couple of their 4 pin fan to SATA power connector ones, and only the power pins go to the SATA connector, and the tach trace goes to all the pin sets, so you have to segregate just the one you need to use.

D.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NE0XY*
> 
> Hi,
> 
> Sorry for being so confused but I'm in the final stages of plannig and I don't want to end up not satisfied with my expensive Aquaero.
> I'm looking at the Aquaero 6 XT and I have a total of 8 PWM fans that I want going between 40-100% on one channel, then 8 additional fans (3pin) that I want offline for the most time but, should go up to max 50% when temps reach a high enough temperature. and then an additional 3 fans (3pin) that I don't really care about.
> Is this something that I can set up being a noob on the aquaero? I'm guessing the 3pin fans are the problem?
> 
> Thank you


yes yes a thousand times yes

as for the learning curve i would recommend using reading the aquaero manual

towards the end you can see the software which is mostly the same
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *47 Knucklehead*
> 
> I have a question on controlling a number of fans (8 on one channel, and 6 on another) via the AQ6. I know that it will work with a simple 9 way 3-pin "Y" cable and as I increase or decrease the voltage via the AQ6, ALL the fans will speed up or slow down, and I even get an RPM reading back.
> 
> My question is this, does anyone know if the blocks from ModMyToys will do the exact same thing? I pretty much assume they will allow me to put power to all 6 or 8 3-pin connectors, but I am wondering if the RPM line is brought back too (or can be easily modified)?
> 
> I'm looking at a pair of the MMT-PCB-4-83 boards.
> 
> Normally you would put a standard 4-pin molex in the one end and it would provide 12V to the 8 3-pin fan connectors. I'm just wondering if there is a way to make a custom cable from the 4-pin Molex to a 3-pin fan connector to plug into the AQ6 and get the RPM signal?
> 
> If anyone else has any other suggestions, I'd love to hear.


you can easily make an adapter,

but i bet this would work too !!!

with less modding MMT-PCB-8P-44P


----------



## Jakusonfire

Why use a Molex board when the 4 pin fan versions exist.


----------



## Mega Man

thats what i just said


----------



## BirdofPrey

I don't even bother with those splitter boards; it's easy enough to make a wire harness yourself which can be tucked away in the wire management space (since it is just wires).


----------



## Mega Man

some people dont want a wad of wires


----------



## electro2u

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> some people dont want a wad of wires


Aquaero= wad of wires


----------



## 47 Knucklehead

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> some people dont want a wad of wires


This.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> with less modding MMT-PCB-8P-44P


Nice. I'll inquire about that one. All the fans are 3-pin ones, so hopefully that will allow me to do it. It should, as long as all the pins are connected. Thanks!

Have you used it?

WOOT! I found some info on this, from one of our own no less.









http://www.overclock.net/t/1474470/ocn-aquaero-owners-club/1100_50#post_22527313

Unfortunately, the only place I see that sells the MMT-PCB-8P-44P is FrozenCPU ... and well, I won't get into that. Performance PCs only sells the smaller MMT-PCB-4P-44P, which is worthless. Nothing on eBay or Amazon, and ModMyToys doesn't sell direct.


----------



## Mega Man

Ok from that post the nzxt grid would work to.

Otherwise either will need the rpm line modified ( cut )

Call performance pcs

They have been known to order in stuff for me.

I want a few too. Maybe we can convince them to start stocking them


----------



## 47 Knucklehead

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> Ok from that post the nzxt grid would work to.
> 
> Otherwise either will need the rpm line modified ( cut )
> 
> Call performance pcs
> 
> They have been known to order in stuff for me.
> 
> I want a few too. Maybe we can convince them to start stocking them


Aye.

I talked to @Unicr0nhunter and he told me that he uses the NZXT Grid with his Aquaero and he even linked me to a post showing exactly how he did it (although I sort of guessed it was beforehand).

Here is the post he made showing it: How to modify the NZXT Grid.

I'll most likely do the same thing. Snip pin-3 on all but one of the fan ports and just monitor the fan on port 1 for RPM.

Being the insane modder that I am, on one of them I will tear it apart and paint one of them orange to match the build and mount it on the the 60mm thick radiator (which is also orange) and cut the fan wires to length so that it all looks beautiful with custom sleeved wires. Since the whole thing is only 42mm x 56mm x 17mm ... it will fit perfectly at the end of the RX360 radiator, especially with 25mm thick fans on either side (125mm x 58.5+50mm x 410mm).

Performance PC's didn't have either the ModMyToys unit or the NZXT Grid, but Newegg did for $12, so I ordered 3 from them (2 for my build, 1 for "because"). Best thing about Newegg is no tax, free shipping, and they are only 1 UPS day away. Sorry Performance PC ... hard to beat that, even with the OCN55 discount.

Thanks for everyone who helped out, and I hope that it may give other Aquaero users ideas.


----------



## Dagamus NM

If you are custom making the sleeved fan wires why not simply omit the third wire/pins on the cables/connectors from the unit to the fans? Or is that what you mean by snip?


----------



## BirdofPrey

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> some people dont want a wad of wires


You don't make a wad. You make a central bus cable with power sense and ground and solder leads for each fan on at regular intervals


----------



## 47 Knucklehead

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dagamus NM*
> 
> If you are custom making the sleeved fan wires why not simply omit the third wire/pins on the cables/connectors from the unit to the fans? Or is that what you mean by snip?


I could, but I actually like the LOOK of having the 3 wires on the fan shown.

I know that sounds insane, but my builds are often as much about look as they are about performance.

Having the 3 wires just looks better IMO.


----------



## Dagamus NM

Do you run your wires all the way to the splitter without any connections?


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BirdofPrey*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> some people dont want a wad of wires
> 
> 
> 
> You don't make a wad. You make a central bus cable with power sense and ground and solder leads for each fan on at regular intervals
Click to expand...

maybe that is how you do it, or want it, but not everyone does,

I dont


----------



## BirdofPrey

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> maybe that is how you do it, or want it, but not everyone does,
> 
> I dont


I'm just pointing out custom wiring doesn't have to be a wad


----------



## Turbz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *47 Knucklehead*
> 
> I could, but I actually like the LOOK of having the 3 wires on the fan shown.
> 
> I know that sounds insane, but my builds are often as much about look as they are about performance.
> 
> Having the 3 wires just looks better IMO.


You would still have three wires. It's the fan harness that wouldn't.


----------



## dodgethis

Quick question, does any of the AQC Flow sensors do any temperature monitoring of any sort?

Page in question: http://shop.aquacomputer.de/product_info.php?products_id=2900


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dodgethis*
> 
> Quick question, does any of the AQC Flow sensors do any temperature monitoring of any sort?
> 
> Page in question: http://shop.aquacomputer.de/product_info.php?products_id=2900


yes they do. They have an internal temp sensor as well as an external port for another temp probe. However, the internal temp is not reliable, usually much higher that what the temp really is and quite variable which prevents an constant offset to be applied. In short, not reliable as internal temp indicator.


----------



## Mega Man

you can add a temp sensor to it , if that is your question


----------



## LostParticle

Hello

I am having an issue with the Aquasuite ver. 2015-4. I use HWiNFO64 v.4.51-2444, the latest beta that is. So I have it customized (hidden values, renamed + reordered values) according to my preferences. This portable latest beta of HWiNFO64 works great on my system.

Today I have downloaded and installed the latest Aquasuite. I've renamed my fans and then I have tried to set up a Software Temperature Sensor, using HWiNFO64 which was running. It does not work though








I select for example the GPU temperature (from HWiNFO64). It does not see it. Here is what I mean:


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!







It always stays at 50C when my GPU temp right now is 25C.

I have also selected other items (from HWiNFO64) like CPU Socket temp, Motherboard temp etc. It doesn't work







It has worked for one time or two but then, no. I have uninstalled the Aquasuite using Revo Uninstaller Pro. Still, after re-installing it, it doesn't work

In HWiNFO64 settings I have "Shared Memory Support" enabled (it is by default).

Can anyone please help me?

Thank you.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LostParticle*
> 
> Hello
> 
> I am having an issue with the Aquasuite ver. 2015-4. I use HWiNFO64 v.4.51-2444, the latest beta that is. So I have it customized (hidden values, renamed + reordered values) according to my preferences. This portable latest beta of HWiNFO64 works great on my system.
> 
> Today I have downloaded and installed the latest Aquasuite. I've renamed my fans and then I have tried to set up a Software Temperature Sensor, using HWiNFO64 which was running. It does not work though
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I select for example the GPU temperature (from HWiNFO64). It does not see it. Here is what I mean:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It always stays at 50C when my GPU temp right now is 25C.
> 
> I have also selected other items (from HWiNFO64) like CPU Socket temp, Motherboard temp etc. It doesn't work
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It has worked for one time or two but then, no. I have uninstalled the Aquasuite using Revo Uninstaller Pro. Still, after re-installing it, it doesn't work
> 
> In HWiNFO64 settings I have "Shared Memory Support" enabled (it is by default).
> 
> Can anyone please help me?
> 
> Thank you.


mmmm. Just tested here and works just fine for me. I am with aquasuite 2015-3 however and hwinfo64 v4.48 2350. Perhaps reverse to aquasuite 2015-3 just for testing. If everything is working there you can keep that way for a while.


----------



## LostParticle

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> mmmm. Just tested here and works just fine for me. I am with aquasuite 2015-3 however and hwinfo64 v4.48 2350. Perhaps reverse to aquasuite 2015-3 just for testing. If everything is working there you can keep that way for a while.


Well... I wouldn't mind reverting to an older Aquasuite version -even though I've already updated the firmware of my device with this latest one- but I do not wish to revert to an older version of HWiNFO64 because this latest beta offers multi-column support in the Sensor's panel, a function I've waited for long time.

Is it maybe because I am running a portable ver. of HWiNFO and not an installed one? Are you using a portable version?

Thank you.


----------



## dodgethis

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> yes they do. They have an internal temp sensor as well as an external port for another temp probe. However, the internal temp is not reliable, usually much higher that what the temp really is and quite variable which prevents an constant offset to be applied. In short, not reliable as internal temp indicator.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> you can add a temp sensor to it , if that is your question


Okay, I should have been clearer. Sorry, guys.

Can any of the flow sensors monitor the temperature of the coolant flowing through it without having buy or attaching anything else?


----------



## LostParticle

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> mmmm. Just tested here and works just fine for me. I am with *aquasuite 2015-3* however and hwinfo64 v4.48 2350. Perhaps reverse to aquasuite 2015-3 just for testing. If everything is working there you can keep that way for a while.


Do you have a link of this 2015-3 version, please?

Will this work after the firmware update I did with the latest version?

Thank you.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dodgethis*
> 
> Okay, I should have been clearer. Sorry, guys.
> 
> Can any of the flow sensors monitor the temperature of the coolant flowing through it without having buy or attaching anything else?


that is exactly what I reply to you. It can. It have an internal sensor to measure coolant temp. not a good one.

@LostParticle, no mate. Using full version not portable. Also don't have a link for 2015-3...Let's see if I can attach here:

aqua.txt 3541k .txt file


replace .txt with .exe. @Shoggy if this is not allowed or against any rule let me knwon and I will delete it asap.


----------



## dodgethis

Sweet, thanks!


----------



## LostParticle

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> @LostParticle, no mate. Using full version not portable. Also don't have a link for 2015-3...Let's see if I can attach here:
> 
> aqua.txt 3541k .txt file
> 
> 
> replace .txt with .exe. @Shoggy if this is not allowed or against any rule let me knwon and I will delete it asap.


Thank you









I have installed the latest HWiNFO64. This is not the latest beta, it is the regular version. This one works, as it seems:


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!







Unfortunately, I cannot keep this HWiNFO version because the latest one offers multi-column support, it reads and shows the motherboard model and has other updates, too.

I will inform the developer because most probably it has to do with something from HWiNFO's side.

Thank you very much


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LostParticle*
> 
> Thank you
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have installed the latest HWiNFO64. This is not the latest beta, it is the regular version. This one works, as it seems:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Unfortunately, I cannot keep this HWiNFO version because the latest one offers multi-column support, it reads and shows the motherboard model and has other updates, too.
> 
> I will inform the developer because most probably it has to do with something from HWiNFO's side.
> 
> Thank you very much


mmm...not sure mate. I just downloaded the latest hwinfo64 beta (4.51.2444) and I can read and display gpu temp just fine in Aquasuite. The only difference is I am running aquasuite 2015-3


----------



## LostParticle

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> mmm...not sure mate. I just downloaded the latest hwinfo64 beta (4.51.2444) and I can read and display gpu temp just fine in Aquasuite. The only difference is I am running aquasuite 2015-3


I see!

So that portable latest beta HWiNFO64 version works for you?! Okay!

I will try it, too.
But I have downloaded the aqua.txt file you have provided, I have renamed it to aqua.exe, and when I try to run it....Notepad opens with "garbage" characters. How do I turn it into an .exe to install it?


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LostParticle*
> 
> I see!
> 
> So that portable latest beta HWiNFO64 version works for you?! Okay!
> 
> I will try it, too.
> But I have downloaded the aqua.txt file you have provided, I have renamed it to aqua.exe, and when I try to run it....Notepad opens with "garbage" characters. How do I turn it into an .exe to install it?


i used old good dos for that. went to command prompt. Use "rename aqua.txt aqua.exe" without the quotes to reverse my renaming. In regard to the beta I went to the 64 bits version in the middle of the screen and clicked download the latest beta at the bottom. Not the blue tab.


----------



## LostParticle

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> In regard to the beta I went to the 64 bits version in the middle of the screen and clicked download the latest beta at the bottom. Not the blue tab.


Yes, this is how I do it, too. This is the beta (the latest one) I have, too.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> i used old good dos for that. went to command prompt. Use "rename aqua.txt aqua.exe" without the quotes to reverse my renaming.


Okay. I have renamed it. And I have installed it.

It tells me though that my firmware is outdated. However, I have already performed a firmware update with the latest Aquasuite (2015-4), downloaded directly from the official site. So, right now my device has the *2002* firmware. Is this the latest firmware or is it out of date, like Aquasuite 2015-3 claims?

In any case, Aquasuite 2015-3 does not show my fans because it asks for a firmware update. I think I have the latest, though.

Thank you

ps: what a mess.... :S


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LostParticle*
> 
> Yes, this is how I do it, too. This is the beta (the latest one) I have, too.
> Okay. I have renamed it. And I have installed it.
> 
> It tells me though that my firmware is outdated. However, I have already performed a firmware update with the latest Aquasuite (2015-4), downloaded directly from the official site. So, right now my device has the *2002* firmware. Is this the latest firmware or is it out of date, like Aquasuite 2015-3 claims?
> 
> In any case, Aquasuite 2015-3 does not show my fans because it asks for a firmware update. I think I have the latest, though.
> 
> Thank you
> 
> ps: what a mess.... :S


Ha. I am with 2001 firmware. I guess that is because I also did not upgrade to 2015-4.


----------



## LostParticle

Yeah...well...I usually update.

Conclusion:
I will keep Aquasuite 2015-4 because this is the latest official and it has also performed a firmware update on my device, which means that no earlier version works anymore. And of course, I cannot possibly return to the previous firmware / Aquasuite version.

I will wait until @Shoggy or the developer of HWiNFO64 come up with a solution.

ps: I happened to have a portable version of AIDA64 Extreme. It works:


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!







Thank you, I hope soon someone will provide a solution.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LostParticle*
> 
> Yeah...well...I usually update.
> 
> Conclusion:
> I will keep Aquasuite 2015-4 because this is the latest official and it has also performed a firmware update on my device, which means that no earlier version works anymore. And of course, I cannot possibly return to the previous firmware / Aquasuite version.
> 
> I will wait until @Shoggy or the developer of HWiNFO64 come up with a solution.
> 
> ps: I happened to have a portable version of AIDA64 Extreme. It works:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thank you, I hope soon someone will provide a solution.


just for the record. I updated everything (aquasuite and firmware) and I still can see and integrate hwinfo64 sensors and temps on aquasuite. So everything seems to be working here.


----------



## LostParticle

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> just for the record. I updated everything (aquasuite and firmware) and I still can see and integrate hwinfo64 sensors and temps on aquasuite. So everything seems to be working here.


Oh!

Why you don't you post a screenshot in which both Aquasuite's and HWiNFO64 versions will be shown and the Software Sensors working? Like I did. It will be useful.


----------



## Gabrielzm

here we go

notice the gpu temp on both.


----------



## LostParticle

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> here we go
> 
> notice the gpu temp on both.


Hm... Yeap, I see the GPU [#0] temp (28.0 C) in both. Well... I don't know what to say. I have an Aquaero 5 LT, as can be seen in my sig-rig, and this is a 2 days old Windows 7 64bit clean installation. I have installed everything thoroughly and I have also restored HWiNFO64 in its original state by deleting the respective Registry key. Surely, I have tried it both in its original state and after my personal customization. Besides one time I was not able to use HWiNFO's values from inside the Aquasuite. And of course, I was saving the values and I was rebooting.

What is your motherboard? Do you have an ASUS? I use my ASRock Z97 OC Formula, this period. Perhaps it has something to do with its sensors...

note: I meant, a screenshot from the "_Software Temperature Sensors_" panel.


----------



## jagdtigger

I dont think this is HW related. The aquasuite is getting the readings from hwinfo, not directly from the HW itself... If hwinfo reads sensors but its not appearing in aquasuite than its a software issue. Tried out myself and it works flawlessly:


----------



## LostParticle

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jagdtigger*
> 
> I dont think this is HW related. The aquasuite is getting the readings from hwinfo, not directly from the HW itself... If hwinfo reads sensors but its not appearing in aquasuite than its a software issue. Tried out myself and it works flawlessly:


Thank you very much for your response and especially for your screenshot! Would you be so kind to expand HWiNFO64 a bit so that what's shown in the Aquasuite to be seen in HWiNFO, as well?

And you mean that it is not a hardware related issue but either (my) HWiNFO64 or (my) Aquasuite are problematic?

When it comes to the Aquasuite I have downloaded the latest version directly from the official site. It performed the firmware update on my Aquaero 5 LT without any issues, meaning that it completed, made a "beep" and then it restarted. So I think that the firmware update was successful and that the installation of the Aquasuite was too.

When it comes to HWiNFO64 I've been using the latest beta since it came out couple of days ago, without any issues. I have customized it, meaning I've hidden, renamed and reordered the values. Today though I have even deleted its Registry Key, an action which restores the software in its original state. Still, it didn't work. For example, I see my GPU and CPU temps, my SSD(s) temp, in HWiNFO, but when I select to see these same values in the Aquasuite it does not show anything else besides 50C, the initial value.

Is it maybe that I need to set the driver as persistent? (Settings / Driver Management).

All this is very disappointing. And it is the weekend and everybody is absent.


----------



## jagdtigger

Quote:


> Thank you very much for your response and especially for your screenshot! Would you be so kind to expand HWiNFO64 a bit so that what's shown in the Aquasuite to be seen in HWiNFO, as well?


Yes:

Quote:


> And you mean that it is not a hardware related issue but either (my) HWiNFO64 or (my) Aquasuite are problematic?


If hwinfo able to read the values than the hw part is ok i think... Something preventing the suite to get the readings from hwinfo...


----------



## LostParticle

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jagdtigger*
> 
> Yes:
> 
> If hwinfo able to read the values than the hw part is ok i think... Something preventing the suite to get the readings from hwinfo...


Thanks for the new screenshot, but in this one you are running the installed version, I think? This is not the latest beta you've shown in your previous screenshot. Anyway, no problem, I believe you that the latest beta works on your system. In my system the latest beta does not work. The installed version works. The latest beta does not.

I will delete HWiNFO right now, I will download it and run it again. I will also uninstall (again) the Aquasuite, using Revo Uninstaller Pro, I will download it and install it again. I will check if this time will work. I will also make the driver persistent.

If it won't work this time either I don't know what else to do.


----------



## jagdtigger

The first screen shot is taken with the beta, here is the second on with the beta:
https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/1201829/OCN/hwinfo/03.png

If that wont work than im out of options too...


----------



## LostParticle

Okay! Now it worked!!

I went into Safe Mode and I've deleted every registry key of HWiNFO64 I could find. Before that, of course, I backed up my preferences (in a .reg file, on my desktop). I've installed the Aquasuite and run it, closed it, run HWiNFO and opened the Aquasuite. After reassuring it worked I applied my preferences back.



Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!







I sincerely hope it will stay this way.

Thank you very much









*Update*

*No it does not work! It lost it again!*















All the values returned to 50C


----------



## Ganf

*Stuff at Aquacomputer is getting cheap.*

Just thought I would repost this here in case someone was thinking about picking up some accessories or another unit.


----------



## Ironsmack

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ganf*
> 
> *Stuff at Aquacomputer is getting cheap.*
> 
> Just thought I would repost this here in case someone was thinking about picking up some accessories or another unit.


I noticed that too. It's really tempting me to buy those NB eLoops that I wanted in the first place.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ganf*
> 
> *Stuff at Aquacomputer is getting cheap.*
> 
> Just thought I would repost this here in case someone was thinking about picking up some accessories or another unit.


Yep, nice finding. And in fact if you exclude VAT is even cheaper since aquaero 6 pro goes down from 150 to 125 euros.


----------



## Ganf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Yep, nice finding. And in fact if you exclude VAT is even cheaper since aquaero 6 pro goes down from 150 to 125 euros.


Oh I figured that in when posting the original in Online deals. It's the shipping that makes that unnoticeable though at over 33 euros. Really stings when the same box coming from Aquatuning costs 10 bucks to ship and will get here in half the time.


----------



## LostParticle

@Shoggy

I have contacted the developer of HWiNFO regarding the issue I am facing with Aquasuite 2015-4. He provided me a new beta which resolves the issue of some erratic values appearing each time Aquasuite was running, but it did not resolve my main problem.

- Please read my recent posts on this thread but also from post #744 to post #757, in HWiNFO's thread.

Here is what he said to me about this issue (that I cannot see HWiNFO's values in the "Software Temperature sensors" panel) :
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mumak*
> 
> I'm not sure now how well Aquasuite supports SHM from HWiNFO, but it should support SHM v2 interface. I suggest to check with Aquasuite whether they properly support SHM v2.


and
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mumak*
> 
> Well, that looks like an issue with Aquasuite, since there are many other plugins (HWiNFOMonitor, Rainmeter, etc) used by many users and they have no issues. They all access HWiNFO sensor data using SHM (Shared Memory Interface). Version 2 (v2) of this interface is required to be supported. So I suggest to contact Aquaero to discuss your problems. If they need more information about SHM v2, they can contact me anytime.


Please, @Shoggy, help me resolve this issue.

Thank you!

PS: Another screenshot taken a few minutes ago:


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!







PS_1: AIDA64 does not work either!


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## jeanspaulo

Sorry about boring you guys , but I need some help, I just have all the parts to start my build and two of them are a Swiftech MCP655 PWM and a Aquaero 6 , when I bought the Pump I didnt know about the problem with the PWM of it so doing some researching I found this thread about it http://www.overclock.net/t/1474470/ocn-aquaero-owners-club/0_100#post_21956203 but I didnt found any "build log " or something like that for these "extender" to guide me to build my own , do you have some kind of guide of instructions to build it?
I'm a beginner on DIY and electronics and I dont want to mess up with my pump or the A6 rsrs

Could you help me?


----------



## Wolfsbora

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jeanspaulo*
> 
> Sorry about boring you guys , but I need some help, I just have all the parts to start my build and two of them are a Swiftech MCP655 PWM and a Aquaero 6 , when I bought the Pump I didnt know about the problem with the PWM of it so doing some researching I found this thread about it http://www.overclock.net/t/1474470/ocn-aquaero-owners-club/0_100#post_21956203 but I didnt found any "build log " or something like that for these "extender" to guide me to build my own , do you have some kind of guide of instructions to build it?
> I'm a beginner on DIY and electronics and I dont want to mess up with my pump or the A6 rsrs
> 
> Could you help me?


If I'm not mistaken, this is dependent on the version of Aquaero that you have as I believe newer models address this issue. However, I would wait to see what others say on here. Listen to what @Unicr0nhunter says below.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wolfsbora*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *jeanspaulo*
> 
> Sorry about boring you guys , but I need some help, I just have all the parts to start my build and two of them are a Swiftech MCP655 PWM and a Aquaero 6 , when I bought the Pump I didnt know about the problem with the PWM of it so doing some researching I found this thread about it http://www.overclock.net/t/1474470/ocn-aquaero-owners-club/0_100#post_21956203 but I didnt found any "build log " or something like that for these "extender" to guide me to build my own , do you have some kind of guide of instructions to build it?
> I'm a beginner on DIY and electronics and I dont want to mess up with my pump or the A6 rsrs
> 
> Could you help me?
> 
> 
> 
> If I'm not mistaken, this is dependent on the version of Aquaero that you have as I believe newer models address this issue. However, I would wait to see what others say on here.
Click to expand...

The AQ6 revision addressed issues related to Corsair PWM fan limitations. It did not resolve the issues with PWM D5s (all except Aquacomputer has recently come out with their own D5 pump which has corrected the issue). The post by Darlene (IT Diva) that's linked in jeanspaulo's comment (and again here) shows and tells exactly what you would need to fix the PWM D5 issue yourself. That _is_ the guide to help others build their own fix that we typically link people to whenever this issue comes up.


----------



## Wolfsbora

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> The AQ6 revision addressed issues related to Corsair PWM fan limitations. It did not resolve the issues with PWM D5s (all except Aquacomputer has recently come out with their own D5 pump which has corrected the issue). The post by Darlene (IT Diva) that's linked in jeanspaulo's comment (and again here) shows and tells exactly what you would need to fix the PWM D5 issue yourself. That _is_ the guide to help others build their own that we typically link people to whenever this issue comes up.


Thanks! I edited my post. +1


----------



## barracks510

Hey guys,

I'm developing GNU/Linux software for the Aquaero 5 and 6. It would be wonderful if you could contribute some data, especially with the later firmwares (20XX). All you need to do is run a software USB sniffer on the Aquaero device and issue some commands through the Aquasuite program. It would also be incredibly helpful if you could tell me what you clicked to cause a certain action.

Thanks!


----------



## valvehead

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *barracks510*
> 
> Hey guys,
> 
> I'm developing GNU/Linux software for the Aquaero 5 and 6. It would be wonderful if you could contribute some data, especially with the later firmwares (20XX). All you need to do is run a software USB sniffer on the Aquaero device and issue some commands through the Aquasuite program. It would also be incredibly helpful if you could tell me what you clicked to cause a certain action.
> 
> Thanks!


Thanks for taking on this project!

I dual boot my main PC, so I could give you some feedback in both Windows and Linux. I'm a little busy until next week, but I'll gladly look into it then.


----------



## EAnushan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *barracks510*
> 
> Hey guys,
> 
> I'm developing GNU/Linux software for the Aquaero 5 and 6. It would be wonderful if you could contribute some data, especially with the later firmwares (20XX). All you need to do is run a software USB sniffer on the Aquaero device and issue some commands through the Aquasuite program. It would also be incredibly helpful if you could tell me what you clicked to cause a certain action.
> 
> Thanks!


This would be really useful to have! I dual boot as well, but would love it to be able to configure the Aquaero through Linux instead of windows. Thanks for looking into this.


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Yep, nice finding. And in fact if you exclude VAT is even cheaper since aquaero 6 pro goes down from 150 to 125 euros.


Does that actually go down for you? I don't see any change in the price when I go to checkout with a US address.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Does that actually go down for you? I don't see any change in the price when I go to checkout with a US address.


it does mate. But you need to be logged on with your account and address. I got a package from Aquacomputer a month ago and I paid US$ 66 for each USB d5 PWM (around 61 euros).


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> it does mate. But you need to be logged on with your account and address. I got a package from Aquacomputer a month ago and I paid US$ 66 for each USB d5 PWM (around 61 euros).


Ah I was trying Aquatuning where it didn't change no matter what. Their shipping rates are much lower but the item price is much higher lol.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Ah I was trying Aquatuning where it didn't change no matter what. Their shipping rates are much lower but the item price is much higher lol.


Ah. The funny thing is aquatuning is blocked access for me on any other site in the world saving the .br site. I can't access US or UK store fronts for example. In any case I am buying things directly from Aquacomputer and EK for now. I mean a 66 dollar d5? That is a really good deal. and have been using the d5 PWM (two of it) with the Aquaero for a month now and this thing is great.

edit - just checked. An Aq6 xt is at 160 US$ at Aquacomputer shop


----------



## Dagamus NM

What benefit does the PWM d5 offer over the voltage controlled?


----------



## Artah

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dagamus NM*
> 
> What benefit does the PWM d5 offer over the voltage controlled?


I have no idea but I would like to know myself, I should have done the IT Diva mod on a regular D5. I ordered one of these from aqua computer and it was defective. After sending them a video of what the thing was doing I was asked to send it back. Spent $16+ on shipping (UPS slowmail wanted $106 to ship it) it back in Germany and it will take two weeks. So disappointed with the whole deal, I almost threw the thing in the trashcan. I have two D5 variables right now on 2 different rigs and they worked perfectly fine. Anyone else had better luck with the PWM version from aqua computer?


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dagamus NM*
> 
> What benefit does the PWM d5 offer over the voltage controlled?


in performance none, all d5 are the same. In control with the aquaero I want to have a custom controlled curve (in 3 steps) where pumps will raise from 25 % to 70% and then to 100% depending on the coolant - ambient temp. Thus I can set it and forget. Would you be able to do the same with a vario? I don't think so, usually people just set the vario at level 3 , 4 or 5 and forget but I want to control the speed according to the load on the loop (mostly to minimize noise).


----------



## Dagamus NM

Yep, got it. I will probably try those PWM d5's next. I have four of the usb d5's to toy with right now. I finally got my remaining parts to get these builds together ???


----------



## barracks510

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *valvehead*
> 
> Thanks for taking on this project!
> 
> I dual boot my main PC, so I could give you some feedback in both Windows and Linux. I'm a little busy until next week, but I'll gladly look into it then.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EAnushan*
> 
> This would be really useful to have! I dual boot as well, but would love it to be able to configure the Aquaero through Linux instead of windows. Thanks for looking into this.


Ok. Thanks I'll post some instructions on collecting data/ helping out, but I've realized that I'm doing some thread hijacking so I created a new thread here:

Aquaeronix: GNU/LINUX tools for Aquaero 5/6

started on 03/11/15
•

last post 07/15/17 at 12:52pm
•

7 replies
•

1451 views


----------



## electro2u

Will the pwm type d5 fit in a Bitspower upgrade kit cover? Seems like the connection at the back might interfere.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> Will the pwm type d5 fit in a Bitspower upgrade kit cover? Seems like the connection at the back might interfere.


It is just the wires mate. Nothing there. Just the molex and pwm cables, it is not like the d5 usb with 4 different header protruding from the back.


----------



## electro2u

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> It is just the wires mate. Nothing there. Just the molex and pwm cables, it is not like the d5 usb with 4 different header protruding from the back.


Damn. Must have.


----------



## Jakusonfire

The Bitspower pump cover has a removable rear plate anyway


----------



## Artah

The mod comes with a tool so you can remove the molex head for the wire to pass by the back of the cover.


----------



## Ganf

YEP.


----------



## deeph

Does anyone know if I can use farbwerk to blink the leds to following a music (bass maybe?)?


----------



## Shoggy

It can be done but not without additional custom made hardware. The sensor inputs can be also changed to read voltage values between 0 and 3.3V. You would have to convert your audio signal to this voltage range so the LEDs can be controlled this way.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> It can be done but not without additional custom made hardware. The sensor inputs can be also changed to read voltage values between 0 and 3.3V. You would have to convert your audio signal to this voltage range so the LEDs can be controlled this way.


What's the sampling rate on the sensor inputs . . . do they sample fast enough to respond to changes in voltage at audio frequency rates?

Darlene


----------



## Shoggy

The sensor ports are processed every 5 to 10ms (varies a bit).


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> The sensor ports are processed every 5 to 10ms (varies a bit).


Cool, some bandpass filter circuits and some level shifting, and shazaaaaaam,









Darlene


----------



## jeanspaulo

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!






Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Yes, . . . .
> 
> There's a really good way with an add-on PCB, but there's also a quick and easy way that yields acceptable results without having to run wires and plug into a 5V molex pin somewhere.
> 
> Here's copied from the "old" A6 thread with some additional information:
> 
> For the capable DIY'er . . .
> 
> While not as optimal a solution as the active component based solutions, this is a workable solution to the issue of having a PWM D5.
> 
> 
> 
> I've tried it on a single and a dual D5 setup and it works satisfactorily with pullups optimized for each case, and it's dead nuts simple, though not exactly elegant.
> 
> At issue is that the D5 needs a fairly "strong" pullup, (lower resistance) . . . while the A6 works best with weaker pullups, (higher resistance).
> 
> This setup uses the 12V available from the first 2 of the 4 PWM fan pins on each channel of the A6.
> 
> The Zener diode and larger resistor form a 5V regulated source that the smaller resistor connects the PWM line to.
> 
> The diode is a 5.1V Zener diode, and the larger resistor, the 1/2 W one, is a 560 Ohm, but 470, 680, 820, or 1K will work as well. 1K may be the easiest to find.
> 
> Be sure you have the Zener diode polarity connected as in the pic.
> 
> The smaller resistor, 1/4 W, is a 2.2K which I'd suggest for a dual D5 setup, but for a single D5, a 3.3K would be fine.
> 
> The smaller size, 1/6W or 1/8W are electrically OK, but the smaller physical size makes lead breakage more of an issue, so stay with 1/4W.
> 
> Everything shown is available from RadioShack.
> 
> Hope that helps,
> 
> Darlene






Hello, I'll buy the components to build the Adapter cable for pwm pump to A6 I found these specs about the Diode on the store DIODO ZENER 1 WATT 5V1 1N4733A https://www.fairchildsemi.com/datasheets/1N/1N4733A.pdf Do you guys think its ok to use one of theres?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Yes, . . . .
> 
> There's a really good way with an add-on PCB, but there's also a quick and easy way that yields acceptable results without having to run wires and plug into a 5V molex pin somewhere.
> 
> Here's copied from the "old" A6 thread with some additional information:
> 
> For the capable DIY'er . . .
> 
> While not as optimal a solution as the active component based solutions, this is a workable solution to the issue of having a PWM D5.
> 
> 
> 
> I've tried it on a single and a dual D5 setup and it works satisfactorily with pullups optimized for each case, and it's dead nuts simple, though not exactly elegant.
> 
> At issue is that the D5 needs a fairly "strong" pullup, (lower resistance) . . . while the A6 works best with weaker pullups, (higher resistance).
> 
> This setup uses the 12V available from the first 2 of the 4 PWM fan pins on each channel of the A6.
> 
> The Zener diode and larger resistor form a 5V regulated source that the smaller resistor connects the PWM line to.
> 
> The diode is a 5.1V Zener diode, and the larger resistor, the 1/2 W one, is a 560 Ohm, but 470, 680, 820, or 1K will work as well. 1K may be the easiest to find.
> 
> Be sure you have the Zener diode polarity connected as in the pic.
> 
> The smaller resistor, 1/4 W, is a 2.2K which I'd suggest for a dual D5 setup, but for a single D5, a 3.3K would be fine.
> 
> The smaller size, 1/6W or 1/8W are electrically OK, but the smaller physical size makes lead breakage more of an issue, so stay with 1/4W.
> 
> Everything shown is available from RadioShack.
> 
> Hope that helps,
> 
> Darlene






Are there any difference between the brown (carbon film) and the blue (metal film) ones ? I'm searching here on my city to buy the components and for de 1/4w 2.2k or 3.3k I only found the blue ones.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jeanspaulo*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Yes, . . . .
> 
> There's a really good way with an add-on PCB, but there's also a quick and easy way that yields acceptable results without having to run wires and plug into a 5V molex pin somewhere.
> 
> Here's copied from the "old" A6 thread with some additional information:
> 
> For the capable DIY'er . . .
> 
> While not as optimal a solution as the active component based solutions, this is a workable solution to the issue of having a PWM D5.
> 
> 
> 
> I've tried it on a single and a dual D5 setup and it works satisfactorily with pullups optimized for each case, and it's dead nuts simple, though not exactly elegant.
> 
> At issue is that the D5 needs a fairly "strong" pullup, (lower resistance) . . . while the A6 works best with weaker pullups, (higher resistance).
> 
> This setup uses the 12V available from the first 2 of the 4 PWM fan pins on each channel of the A6.
> 
> The Zener diode and larger resistor form a 5V regulated source that the smaller resistor connects the PWM line to.
> 
> The diode is a 5.1V Zener diode, and the larger resistor, the 1/2 W one, is a 560 Ohm, but 470, 680, 820, or 1K will work as well. 1K may be the easiest to find.
> 
> Be sure you have the Zener diode polarity connected as in the pic.
> 
> The smaller resistor, 1/4 W, is a 2.2K which I'd suggest for a dual D5 setup, but for a single D5, a 3.3K would be fine.
> 
> The smaller size, 1/6W or 1/8W are electrically OK, but the smaller physical size makes lead breakage more of an issue, so stay with 1/4W.
> 
> Everything shown is available from RadioShack.
> 
> Hope that helps,
> 
> Darlene
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hello, I'll buy the components to build the Adapter cable for pwm pump to A6 I found these specs about the Diode on the store DIODO ZENER 1 WATT 5V1 1N4733A https://www.fairchildsemi.com/datasheets/1N/1N4733A.pdf Do you guys think its ok to use one of theres?
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Yes, . . . .
> 
> There's a really good way with an add-on PCB, but there's also a quick and easy way that yields acceptable results without having to run wires and plug into a 5V molex pin somewhere.
> 
> Here's copied from the "old" A6 thread with some additional information:
> 
> For the capable DIY'er . . .
> 
> While not as optimal a solution as the active component based solutions, this is a workable solution to the issue of having a PWM D5.
> 
> 
> 
> I've tried it on a single and a dual D5 setup and it works satisfactorily with pullups optimized for each case, and it's dead nuts simple, though not exactly elegant.
> 
> At issue is that the D5 needs a fairly "strong" pullup, (lower resistance) . . . while the A6 works best with weaker pullups, (higher resistance).
> 
> This setup uses the 12V available from the first 2 of the 4 PWM fan pins on each channel of the A6.
> 
> The Zener diode and larger resistor form a 5V regulated source that the smaller resistor connects the PWM line to.
> 
> The diode is a 5.1V Zener diode, and the larger resistor, the 1/2 W one, is a 560 Ohm, but 470, 680, 820, or 1K will work as well. 1K may be the easiest to find.
> 
> Be sure you have the Zener diode polarity connected as in the pic.
> 
> The smaller resistor, 1/4 W, is a 2.2K which I'd suggest for a dual D5 setup, but for a single D5, a 3.3K would be fine.
> 
> The smaller size, 1/6W or 1/8W are electrically OK, but the smaller physical size makes lead breakage more of an issue, so stay with 1/4W.
> 
> Everything shown is available from RadioShack.
> 
> Hope that helps,
> 
> Darlene
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Are there any difference between the brown (carbon film) and the blue (metal film) ones ? I'm searching here on my city to buy the components and for de 1/4w 2.2k or 3.3k I only found the blue ones.
Click to expand...

The 1N4733 is fine, using the metal film resistors is also fine, just cost a few cents more, but work the same.

The resistors are not polarity sensitive, so they can go either direction . . . .

The diode is definitely polarity sensitive for it to work as a voltage regulator.
The end with the black ring is the cathode and thru the 1/2W resistor goes to the +12V pin (number 2)

The non-ringed end goes to ground, (pin 1).

The junction of the ringed end of the diode and the other end of resistor that goes to the +12 pin is where the regulated 5V source is.

You could test that with a multi meter before you add the 2.2K or 3.3K resistor to the PWM pin (4) to be sure you have everything correct.

Darlene


----------



## deeph

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> It can be done but not without additional custom made hardware. The sensor inputs can be also changed to read voltage values between 0 and 3.3V. You would have to convert your audio signal to this voltage range so the LEDs can be controlled this way.


Do you mean like this? http://www.instructables.com/id/Blinking-LEDs-to-Music/
So I have to make another separate circuit?


----------



## LostParticle

Hey guys, just a quick question

I read my "Core Max" temp through HWiNFO64 and have it on screen on a chart:



1) What does Δt mean? I've set it to 60m. Does this mean that what I see on screen represents my "Core Max" temperatures in the course of the last hour?
2) How can I get rid of the white lines behind, on the chart's background?

Thank you!


----------



## gamerking

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LostParticle*
> 
> Hey guys, just a quick question
> 
> I read my "Core Max" temp through HWiNFO64 and have it on screen on a chart:
> 
> 
> 
> 1) What does Δt mean? I've set it to 60m. Does this mean that what I see on screen represents my "Core Max" temperatures in the course of the last hour?
> 2) How can I get rid of the white lines behind, on the chart's background?
> 
> Thank you!


#1 that is the max temp for what you are watching for the last hour thats displayed on the graph
for the second one i have no clue what those white lines are only time ive seen them is with analyze data and clicking around causes lines to appear under one of tabs under the graph


----------



## LostParticle

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gamerking*
> 
> #1 that is the max temp for what you are watching for the last hour thats displayed on the graph
> for the second one i have no clue what those white lines are only time ive seen them is with analyze data and clicking around causes lines to appear under one of tabs under the graph


Thanks for your reply









Regarding the lines, no problem, I will recreate the chart and they might go, if they stay - no problem.

About that Δt though, because I need to understand: so in this example it says that my Max Core temp, in the past 60 minutes, was 47.0 C?
And if I set it to 10 minutes, for example, it will then show me the Core Max of the past 15 minutes? And this is what the chart is showing, as well?

Finally, how can I make it show me a chart for the entire day or for as long as the PC runs?

Thank you.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LostParticle*
> 
> Thanks for your reply
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Regarding the lines, no problem, I will recreate the chart and they might go, if they stay - no problem.
> 
> About that Δt though, because I need to understand: so in this example it says that my Max Core temp, in the past 60 minutes, was 47.0 C?
> And if I set it to 10 minutes, for example, it will then show me the Core Max of the past 15 minutes? And this is what the chart is showing, as well?
> 
> Finally, how can I make it show me a chart for the entire day or for as long as the PC runs?
> 
> Thank you.


delta means a change in the system state (whatever the system is defined). Is a math notation. t stands for time. So, _delta_t means change over a time elapsed.









edit - yep. Those numbers below the chart are the stats. 47 is the big peak and is the maximum value. Not sure for how long you can display but right click on the graph and go to settings.

edit 2 - the maximum value seems to be 60 minutes.


----------



## gamerking

i know just the basics to make my 5 Lt to work i mean the basics someone can answer your questions better then me


----------



## skupples

Using Farbwerk to ambient light my new living room.


----------



## LostParticle

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> delta means a change in the system state (whatever the system is defined). Is a math notation. t stands for time. So, _delta_t means change over a time elapsed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> edit - yep. Those numbers below the chart are the stats. 47 is the big peak and is the maximum value. Not sure for how long you can display but right click on the graph and go to settings.
> 
> edit 2 - the maximum value seems to be 60 minutes.


Okay, thank you









So if I want to log a value for more than 60 minutes I suppose I have to use the "Data Log"...
Do you know how to use this feature to log a value for as long as the computer stays on, or for a predefined amount of time, let's say 5 hours? I will play with it today and post some screenshots, too, if I'll manage to get it working.

By the way...


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Remember that issue I was facing a few days ago, having to do with Aquasuite not reading Software Temperature Sensors from HWiNFO64? I have resolved it by simply connecting my keyboard to a free USB3.0 port in the rear I/O panel of my motherboard. I've tried lots of other things, and @Shoggy has done his best to help, but only this resolved the issue. I don't know if this is specific to my ASRock Z97 OC Formula or my system, in general. After some time, when I will use my other two motherboards, I will check it out again. For now, I'm glad that it works


----------



## electro2u

Anyone have a calibration figure for either the Bitspower flow sensor


or the Koolance flow sensors that are all based on the same design?


Running the Bitspower sensor as if it were the Aquacomputer high flow sensor seems to be a bit too low but it does work.


----------



## Jakusonfire

This has come up a few times, the Bitspower sensor is an rpm sensor so provides a pulse for each turn while the aquacomp flow meters provide two pulses for each turn. That means the Aquaero PPL cannot be calibrated low enough to work properly with it.

There are guides for the koolance sensor on the Aquacomp forum


----------



## LostParticle

Question (@Shoggy, if no one else will answer):

- Which of the following does the Aquasuite 2015-4 require to function properly on Windows 7 64bit?



Thank you.


----------



## electro2u

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> This has come up a few times, the Bitspower sensor is an rpm sensor so provides a pulse for each turn while the aquacomp flow meters provide two pulses for each turn. That means the Aquaero PPL cannot be calibrated low enough to work properly with it.
> 
> There are guides for the koolance sensor on the Aquacomp forum


I have the AC high flow meter so I know what the correct lph figure is, and by adjusting the calibration figure using the bitspower sensor I can make the lph too high or too low. I just don't know the difference in restriction between the two sensors.

Is it really so that no matter what calibration figure I use with the Bitspower meter, when the flow rate changes the reading will be incorrect?


----------



## jeanspaulo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> The 1N4733 is fine, using the metal film resistors is also fine, just cost a few cents more, but work the same.
> 
> The resistors are not polarity sensitive, so they can go either direction . . . .
> 
> The diode is definitely polarity sensitive for it to work as a voltage regulator.
> The end with the black ring is the cathode and thru the 1/2W resistor goes to the +12V pin (number 2)
> 
> The non-ringed end goes to ground, (pin 1).
> 
> The junction of the ringed end of the diode and the other end of resistor that goes to the +12 pin is where the regulated 5V source is.
> 
> You could test that with a multi meter before you add the 2.2K or 3.3K resistor to the PWM pin (4) to be sure you have everything correct.
> 
> Darlene


Thank you Darlene, helped me a lot. Yesterday I got the resistors now I'm waiting the diodes to arrive ( I had to buy it from web ) they'll arrive on Tuesday.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> I have the AC high flow meter so I know what the correct lph figure is, and by adjusting the calibration figure using the bitspower sensor I can make the lph too high or too low. I just don't know the difference in restriction between the two sensors.
> 
> Is it really so that no matter what calibration figure I use with the Bitspower meter, when the flow rate changes the reading will be incorrect?


I think the only way then toa ttain a good calibration is to put both sensors on a bench loop and calibrate the bitsppower one on the same loop as the aq. If you just repalce one for another on the loop the differences in restriction will lead to differences in the readings.


----------



## Shoggy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LostParticle*
> 
> Which of the following does the Aquasuite 2015-4 require to function properly on Windows 7 64bit?


Version 2010 but the aquasuite will also forward you to Microsofts download website for the right package if it is not installed.


----------



## LostParticle

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> Version 2010 but the aquasuite will also forward you to Microsofts download website for the right package if it is not installed.


Thank you

Can you please also tell me, is it the x86 or the x64 version the one required, for Windows 7 64 bit?

The reason I'm asking is because yesterday I've tried, for the 1st time ever, to set the "Data Log" function. I am not sure if it functions the way it's supposed to, because I've never used it before.
Is it possible that the rest of the Visual C++ Redistributables somehow cause a conflict of some kind? I also have Microsoft .NET Framework 4.5.2 installed. System is fully updated.

I'll test it further and I might post a question or two regarding the "Data Log" function, later on.


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LostParticle*
> 
> Thank you
> 
> Can you please also tell me, is it the x86 or the x64 version the one required, for Windows 7 64 bit?
> 
> The reason I'm asking is because yesterday I've tried, for the 1st time ever, to set the "Data Log" function. I am not sure if it functions the way it's supposed to, because I've never used it before.
> Is it possible that the rest of the Visual C++ Redistributables somehow cause a conflict of some kind? I also have Microsoft .NET Framework 4.5.2 installed. System is fully updated.
> 
> I'll test it further and I might post a question or two regarding the "Data Log" function, later on.


If you OS is 64 bit then you need to install the 64 bit one x64 the x86 always means 32 bit


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> I have the AC high flow meter so I know what the correct lph figure is, and by adjusting the calibration figure using the bitspower sensor I can make the lph too high or too low. I just don't know the difference in restriction between the two sensors.
> 
> Is it really so that no matter what calibration figure I use with the Bitspower meter, when the flow rate changes the reading will be incorrect?


The restriction has nothing to do with it. You asked for a calibration figure. If you have both of the meters then put them both in a loop and use one to determine the calibration for the other.

But;
http://forum.aquacomputer.de/weitere-foren/english-forum/p1406186-setting-the-user-define-flow-rate-calibration-lower-than-100-impulses-per-litre/?highlight=bitspower+flow#post1406186


----------



## LostParticle

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> If you OS is 64 bit then you need to install the 64 bit one x64 the x86 always means 32 bit


Thank you for your reply. I am aware that the x64 redistributable is required on 64bit systems, I just asked to be 100% sure that only this and no other is also required. Unfortunately, I did not get an "official" and accurate reply. You know, I am not asking all this without a reason. The latest Aquasuite has not been functioning properly in my system and I am trying to figure out what might be the issue.

@Shoggy or whoever else knows + wishes to help:

- I've managed to set a Log but I have some "issues" with the Chart it creates. Something similar happens also when I try to create a simple chart. Here is what I mean.

I want to see the VCore0 value on my desktop, in a chart. This value is read from HWiNFO64 - latest beta. So, I set it like this:


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!







As you can see, after running MSE antivirus for a few minutes, my VCore0 took a max value of 1.360V. Look how I have set my chart. Why is the Y-axis showing 1,25 when I have set it manually to 1,45? Also, observe up to where the red line is rising. It raised up there when my VCore0 was equal to 1.360V. On the chart however this does not look like "1.360" to me. It looks something like..."1.260" maybe...or "1.270"? So why isn't the Y-axis showing the value as it should?

Something similar is happening in chart of the Log file, too.

Is this the way it "works"? Is it just malfunctioning in my system? Or am I simply setting something wrong?

Thank you.


----------



## Shoggy

Seems OK to me. The chart does not show the lowest and highest values next to the axis but you can still see that the line is drawn correctly. Each segment in your chart is 0.25V so at the top the line is at about the half of the segment which would be 0.125V so when I add this to the last named segment with 1.25V I end up with 1.375V which is close to your measured value.


----------



## LostParticle

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> Seems OK to me. *The chart does not show the lowest and highest values next to the axis* but you can still see that the line is drawn correctly. Each segment in your chart is 0.25V so at the top the line is at about the half of the segment which would be 0.125V so when I add this to the last named segment with 1.25V I end up with 1.375V which is close to your measured value.


Oh! I see! So, the charts in the Aquasuite do not show = they are not designed to show, the minimum and maximum values the user sets manually? IF this is the case, so if it is programmed this way, then I suppose it works fine.

IF it is like this though, please accept a request from me for your future release: set it please so that the Axis will show the user's fixed (manual) min-maxes, when he sets them so.

Thank you.


----------



## Shoggy

We do not display these values because they would overlap with the borders at the base and top which looks ugly as hell









If you set the maximum to 1.55V the value of 1.5V will be rendered next to the axis.


----------



## LostParticle

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> We do not display these values because they would overlap with the borders at the base and top which looks ugly as hell


I agree but what I meant is that it would be convenient if the range interval could be somehow set.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> If you set the maximum to 1.55V the value of 1.5V will be rendered next to the axis.


Yeap, thank you, this way it works.


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!







My personal and subjective opinion though is that it defies the purpose of a chart: at a glance to be able to tell. I will try some other display method.

Thank you.

PS:
I think I have found the most convenient-pleasant display method for "a glance at the VCore(s)"


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



The Gauge - two alternatives and it has *Label Placement Interval*, too!


----------



## electro2u

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> The restriction has nothing to do with it. You asked for a calibration figure. If you have both of the meters then put them both in a loop and use one to determine the calibration for the other.
> 
> But;
> http://forum.aquacomputer.de/weitere-foren/english-forum/p1406186-setting-the-user-define-flow-rate-calibration-lower-than-100-impulses-per-litre/?highlight=bitspower+flow#post1406186


I meant if the two sensors had the same restriction than I would know exactly the flow rate of the system with the Bitspower meter in, since I have a reading from the AC High Flow.
If I set the calibration to 100 PPM with the Bitspower unit then the flow rate is calculated too high, so going lower than 100PPM isn't necessary. It should be closer to 200.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> I meant if the two sensors had the same restriction than I would know exactly the flow rate of the system with the Bitspower meter in, since I have a reading from the AC High Flow.
> If I set the calibration to 100 PPM with the Bitspower unit then the flow rate is calculated too high, so going lower than 100PPM isn't necessary. It should be closer to 200.


they don't have the same restriction for sure. Aquacomputer is a digimesa flow meter adapted with a custom pcb. Bitspower looks quite different from the digimesa flow meter. That's why we recommend it to you to run both on the same loop to calibrate the Bitspower one.


----------



## electro2u

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> they don't have the same restriction for sure. Aquacomputer is a digimesa flow meter adapted with a custom pcb. Bitspower looks quite different from the digimesa flow meter. That's why we recommend it to you to run both on the same loop to calibrate the Bitspower one.


Absolutely, I understand. I am going to switch to the koolance flow sensor I have since it has a temperature sensor bundled and it will allow me to get rid of a T fitting I don't like. Seems there is a reliable calibration figure for the koolance sensor which will save me the trouble of testing with multiple meters. After 2 defective clicking AC flow meters I'm not going that way again.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> Absolutely, I understand. I am going to switch to the koolance flow sensor I have since it has a temperature sensor bundled and it will allow me to get rid of a T fitting I don't like. Seems there is a reliable calibration figure for the koolance sensor which will save me the trouble of testing with multiple meters. After 2 defective clicking AC flow meters I'm not going that way again.


besides in my tests they are quite restrictive. Putting in perspective more restrictive that a mips cpu block. I use the mps 400 for now on.


----------



## Ganf

Is it possible to adjust the upper volt limits on the fan channels? I've got half a dozen GT's on two channels right now and it's just a small portion of what the channels can hold, but the voltage at 100% still droops to 11.6. I'd like to adjust it to get rid of the droop and keep them at a steady 12.1 when they're maxed out.

I looked, but didn't find any settings I could change. Any suggestions or is there something I'm missing?


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ganf*
> 
> Is it possible to adjust the upper volt limits on the fan channels? I've got half a dozen GT's on two channels right now and it's just a small portion of what the channels can hold, but the voltage at 100% still droops to 11.6. I'd like to adjust it to get rid of the droop and keep them at a steady 12.1 when they're maxed out.
> 
> I looked, but didn't find any settings I could change. Any suggestions or is there something I'm missing?


don't think is possible. That is quite normal for a fan controller. if you put several fans on the same channel there will be a drop in the voltage supplied. My GTs fan channel goes to 10.9...


----------



## Ganf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> don't think is possible. That is quite normal for a fan controller. if you put several fans on the same channel there will be a drop in the voltage supplied. My GTs fan channel goes to 10.9...


But I want more....

Think I could reduce it by bridging the splitters to work off of 2 channels each and setting the paired channels with identical settings? They're being voltage controlled instead of PWM, so there shouldn't be any conflicting signals.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ganf*
> 
> But I want more....
> 
> Think I could reduce it by bridging the splitters to work off of 2 channels each and setting the paired channels with identical settings? They're being voltage controlled instead of PWM, so there shouldn't be any conflicting signals.


If you split the number of fans you have in more that one channel the voltage supplied should go up. Do the test. Take all fans from the splitter cable and leave only one. Voltage should go up I would bet.


----------



## Ganf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> If you split the number of fans you have in more that one channel the voltage supplied should go up. Do the test. Take all fans from the splitter cable and leave only one. Voltage should go up I would bet.


Understood, but distributing the fans across all 4 channels means another $50 in splitters, connectors and shipping. Bridging two channels into one of my existing splitters will most likely be free.


----------



## Mega Man

proof of concept



Dowered from my aquaero

also to note it is not dim-able via PWM

( from a 295x2 )


----------



## Dagamus NM

So I know that this really isn't the place, but as this is the thread where I was turned onto the dimastech test bench I figure I would ask if any of you had seen the new case they sell?
http://www.dimastechcooling.it/en/dimastech-computer-case-amc-001--customizable

I am ordering one. Short of aquacomputer making cases which they should totally get into, this case looks to be a wienner!!


----------



## fast_fate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dagamus NM*
> 
> So I know that this really isn't the place, but as this is the thread where I was turned onto the dimastech test bench I figure I would ask if any of you had seen the new case they sell?
> http://www.dimastechcooling.it/en/dimastech-computer-case-amc-001--customizable
> 
> I am ordering one. Short of aquacomputer making cases which they should totally get into, this case looks to be a wienner!!


Hah - I was in the crowd funding program on Indiegogo to try and kick start this model - but didn't have enough supporters to reach the goal - not even close.
I was only in for a t-shirt, but there was one supporter who put out the cash for a case.
Money was refunded and not heard more about since - until now.

projects/amc-advanced-modular-case-by-dimastech-cooling


----------



## Kimir

I looked at it when I ordered my bench table v3 the other day (great stuff btw), but one thing bothers me. Why top and lower chamber rad space limited to 3 slots, duh!
I mean, it could be a nice alternative to caselabs with modularity and all, but need 480/560mm rad space available. My SMA is 670mm depth and it can fit, the AMC case is 650mm, a 480mm rad should fit in there.


----------



## electro2u

The vertical bar in the window kills it for me


----------



## Dagamus NM

I hear you on those issues. For me the 420mm spacing is just right. As far as the bar, if I cannot remove it then it will serve as a mount for my led cable for my farbwerks.

Hopefully I can mess with it this weekend.


----------



## kot0005




----------



## RpeeKooz

Quick question I have a aquaero 6xt. I installed it about a week ago.when I turn my pc off.it stays on..is this normal or do I have to change a setting?


----------



## Costas

^^^

It will remain in standby [powered up but not powering fans/pumps etc] if it is still receiving power via the USB port it is plugged into.

Depending on your bios features for your mobo... you may be able to power down the USB ports when your PC is shutdown - I gather at the moment the USB ports are still powered up even though the PC is shutdown.

If your mobo and power supply support ERP - You can enable this feature in your bios to prevent the PC applying power to the USB ports when it is shutdown.


----------



## RpeeKooz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Costas*
> 
> ^^^
> 
> It will remain in standby [powered up but not powering fans/pumps etc] if it is still receiving power via the USB port it is plugged into.
> 
> Depending on your bios features for your mobo... you may be able to power down the USB ports when your PC is shutdown - I gather at the moment the USB ports are still powered up even though the PC is shutdown.
> 
> If your mobo and power supply support ERP - You can enable this feature in your bios to prevent the PC applying power to the USB ports when it is shutdown.


Thanks.Yeh it is powered by Usb.I'll have a look tomorrow.or can I just leave it in standby. Won't ruin the lifespan of the device?


----------



## Shoggy

It was designed this way because otherwise you could not turn on the PC with the remote or use the timer functions for example.

If you want to have it off when the PC is not running anymore you could remove the pin with the red wire from the USB plug. Make sure to seal it with some tape since it is the +5V line and could cause a short circuit if you let it dangle.


----------



## Trestles126

uploading custom screensavers on your aquaero 6 for one of your pages? how do u do this is their a file base where some standard ones are stored? I've seen one with a overlockers.net black and white screen saver? am i crazy?


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Trestles126*
> 
> uploading custom screensavers on your aquaero 6 for one of your pages? how do u do this is their a file base where some standard ones are stored? I've seen one with a overlockers.net black and white screen saver? am i crazy?


Here are some posts about that from back in this thread that you may find helpful ...
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nichismo*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Kimir*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Nichismo*
> 
> sup guys, loving my XT
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Neat!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Mind sharing that logo? I want to use it!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> no problem
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> its already in the proper 256x64 res
Click to expand...

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *riesscar*
> 
> Hey guys,
> 
> I am having some trouble getting my custom LCD screen to show up in my information pages. I have created a monochrome .png within photoshop, and I used the text tool just to enter the name of my build. I saved it with the correct dimensions, but when I attempt to upload it nothing happens. When this failed, I attempted to edit the "User LCD" info page from within the aquasuite program files --> screens folder. I just blacked out the white text (probably an image actually) and then used the text tool from within microsoft paint to enter the build name... I did this by choosing white as my primary color, given that the backdrop is black. I then saved (which I could do because I closed aquasuite before editing the file. When I opened up Aquasuite, I saw my screen in the 'information pages' section, and it looked exactly as I intended; however, after adding it and looking at the LCD of my AQ6, only a blank screen shows up instead.
> 
> Can someone explain to me in laymen's terms how to go about creating a custom info screen for the LCD? I just want it to contain the name of my build -- preferably in a font of my choosing, but I'll settle for any at this point.
> 
> Thanks for any info on this,
> 
> Carson
> 
> 
> 
> Black text on white background produces the opposite on the Aquaero.
> 
> PNG created in paint
> 
> 
> Screenshot
> 
> 
> The pages inside the Aquasuite install files are the wrong size though. You need 256 x 64
Click to expand...

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> When the file is saved it is important to limit the color palette to only two colors: black (#000000) and white (#FFFFFF).


----------



## Mega Man

it is easy actually
and for me it auto converts ( at least it did for me ! )

to convert it back to original you must reflash the firmware ( maybe if you ask nice @Shoggy will give us one to put in the OP )

i am making a quick guide but i lost the megaman i made :/
ill make another in a min

edit hope this helps


----------



## Trestles126

Thanks u guys gonna try to do a asus ROG one or the overclock is cool thanks a bunch


----------



## Mega Man

fyi i use paint

make sure its a png and resize to 256x64 ( from the top of my head )


----------



## Trestles126

Awesome that sounds fairly easy to make ur own or copy and paste a picture that's 2 tone and cut to size? So glad I bought the aquero 6 puts the final touch on the computer


----------



## timepart

I have an Aquaero 5 xt on order with water block







I plan to run 3 sets of corsair sp120 high performance fans on these (10+ fans). I was wondering if anyone could point out the difference in flow meters, The Mps 200, 400, and G1/4" flow sensor. What is the best to price to performance for these flow meters. Thanks!


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *timepart*
> 
> I have an Aquaero 5 xt on order with water block
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I plan to run 3 sets of corsair sp120 high performance fans on these (10+ fans). I was wondering if anyone could point out the difference in flow meters, The Mps 200, 400, and G1/4" flow sensor. What is the best to price to performance for these flow meters. Thanks!


the maximum flow. Go to the mps400. Maximum flow on it is 2 GPM and you will have all the range from 0.3 gpm to 2 gpm. The usb and high flow aquacomputer meters are much more restrictive. Almost like a MIPS cpu block.


----------



## Laine

Had this problem a few months back. Might want to think twice about getting an Aquaero in the future.



We worked it out after I yanked out one of the drives though.


----------



## electro2u

So much awesome.


----------



## Mega Man

HAHAHAHA

**Disclaimer

he is JOKING


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Laine*
> 
> Had this problem a few months back. Might want to think twice about getting an Aquaero in the future.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> We worked it out after I yanked out one of the drives though.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Lol Laine.


----------



## figgie

I have an aquaero 6 XT which is looking for anew case (not selling. I mean I am getting another case).


----------



## Mega Man

Might I recommend caselabs


----------



## Trestles126

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> Might I recommend caselabs


Second that just ordered my s8 to swap all my parts from my phanteks into it... Unless u wanna buy my luxe


----------



## Ganf

Fed up with my temps spiking by 30c under load, and I cant for the life of me figure out why, so I'm just going to do the usual and make things overly complicated to solve a very simple problem.

I've got a TEC, some thermal pads, and some Gelid Extreme TIM on the way. I'm going to change the TIM on my processor just in case the cheap crap I used was the culprit, but I also want to take the TEC and stick it to the back of my socket and plug it into my Aquaero.

I should be able to drop a temp probe outside the case to sample ambient temps, do a little math, assume 80% humidity and set the Aquaero so that it keeps the TEC above the dew point at all times correct?

My motherboard is waterproof, so I don't care about the occasional drop or two which will happen when the humidity here approaches the official point of living in a steambox, but I don't want to open my case to find a bunch of mildew in the bottom in a few weeks.


----------



## Mega Man

just have to ask, not to be rude, you do know TECs have to be cooled as well correct ??


----------



## Ganf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> just have to ask, not to be rude, you do know TECs have to be cooled as well correct ??


30w over a heatsink isn't going to bother the back side of my case when I have a dozen fans pushing air through it. I considered everything carefully, and then forgot all of the finer details and said to hell with it, it either works or it doesn't. I've spent more than $20 on a science experiment before.


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ganf*
> 
> Fed up with my temps spiking by 30c under load, and I cant for the life of me figure out why, so I'm just going to do the usual and make things overly complicated to solve a very simple problem.
> 
> I've got a TEC, some thermal pads, and some Gelid Extreme TIM on the way. I'm going to change the TIM on my processor just in case the cheap crap I used was the culprit, but I also want to take the TEC and stick it to the back of my socket and plug it into my Aquaero.
> 
> I should be able to drop a temp probe outside the case to sample ambient temps, do a little math, assume 80% humidity and set the Aquaero so that it keeps the TEC above the dew point at all times correct?
> 
> My motherboard is waterproof, so I don't care about the occasional drop or two which will happen when the humidity here approaches the official point of living in a steambox, but I don't want to open my case to find a bunch of mildew in the bottom in a few weeks.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ganf*
> 
> 30w over a heatsink isn't going to bother the back side of my case when I have a dozen fans pushing air through it. I considered everything carefully, and then forgot all of the finer details and said to hell with it, it either works or it doesn't. I've spent more than $20 on a science experiment before.


Sir I do not want to dampen your fun but no TEC that can be powered or controlled by the Aquaero is going cool a cpu. A 30 watt TEC at 100% efficiency will only remove 30 watts of heat!! your CPU is going to be 80 to 140 depending on the CPU before overclock..

Enjoy your experiment and don't burn up your CPU!!!


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> Sir I do not want to dampen your fun but no TEC that can be powered or controlled by the Aquaero is going cool a cpu. A 30 watt TEC at 100% efficiency will only remove 30 watts of heat!! your CPU is going to be 80 to 140 depending on the CPU before overclock..
> 
> Enjoy your experiment and don't burn up your CPU!!!


he is not using as the main cooler of the cpu but as an accessory cooling on the back of the cpu/mb if I understood his intentions correctly.


----------



## Ganf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> Sir I do not want to dampen your fun but no TEC that can be powered or controlled by the Aquaero is going cool a cpu. A 30 watt TEC at 100% efficiency will only remove 30 watts of heat!! your CPU is going to be 80 to 140 depending on the CPU before overclock..
> 
> Enjoy your experiment and don't burn up your CPU!!!


It isn't going to cool my CPU. The custom loop is. The TEC is just going to assist in keeping the temps manageable, because I've got something strange going on.

I don't know if it's some sort of glitch in Asrock's BIOS and I just haven't spotted the crazy voltage setting somewhere, whether I've got an undetectable bubble in my block that's keeping water off of a portion of the fins, or if there's something physically wrong with the chip, but my temperatures instantly spike up 15c higher than they should under a full load, and then instantly drop back to normal when the load is removed.

You don't put a TEC on the *back* of your socket to cool your processor.


----------



## electro2u

These aquaero controllers have 9 lives (or more). I keep accidentally trying to kill my aq6xt but it won't die.

Tonight disassembled loop because one of my gpus decided to die all on its own and I was refilling after removing it (I fill right above where the aquaero is mounted and I just left it in. When I powered on the system the aquaero kept shutting off one of the controllers with overvoltage message. I pulled out the aquaero after restarting it repeatedly and I had dropped some coolant on it. Took off the heatsink and found little bits of chalky stuff. Cleaned it up popped it back in and it's running all 4 channels like nothing happened. I'm sure I got lucky there but still the fact it controlled the short (repeatedly) and kept it from being damaged blows my mind.


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ganf*
> 
> It isn't going to cool my CPU. The custom loop is. The TEC is just going to assist in keeping the temps manageable, because I've got something strange going on.
> 
> I don't know if it's some sort of glitch in Asrock's BIOS and I just haven't spotted the crazy voltage setting somewhere, whether I've got an undetectable bubble in my block that's keeping water off of a portion of the fins, or if there's something physically wrong with the chip, but my temperatures instantly spike up 15c higher than they should under a full load, and then instantly drop back to normal when the load is removed.
> 
> You don't put a TEC on the *back* of your socket to cool your processor.


Sorry missed the back of socket!! Having to use phone!! Good luck and have fun!!!!


----------



## Swuell

Hi guys I was wondering if it was possible using the specific PWM ports on the aquaero that control LED to control a small LED that comes with my block for the H220X, if so I'm guessing I need the specialized connector right? Will it work or would the aquaero not be able to control it -- even though the LED itself is relatively tiny?
Thanks!


----------



## Swuell

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Laine*
> 
> Had this problem a few months back. Might want to think twice about getting an Aquaero in the future.
> 
> 
> 
> We worked it out after I yanked out one of the drives though.


LOL... I didn't know custom graphics was possible... Damn. Now I can upload my artwork on this thing?! Must... :O.


----------



## Artah

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Swuell*
> 
> Hi guys I was wondering if it was possible using the specific PWM ports on the aquaero that control LED to control a small LED that comes with my block for the H220X, if so I'm guessing I need the specialized connector right? Will it work or would the aquaero not be able to control it -- even though the LED itself is relatively tiny?
> Thanks!


Are you trying to turn the LED on and off or dim it? Either way I don't think those channels come with a resistor so if it's maxed out you will need to add a resistor in series so you don't burn your stuff out. At max voltage @12V you will need to add a resistor that is around 470 Ohm 1/2 watt if the LED has a 3.5 voltage drop and a 20ma rating (need to know this info). Here is a calculator http://led.linear1.org/1led.wiz

You can check voltage drop by putting 12v on the LED with a 500 Ohm resistor in series (just to be safe use something higher than 470 Ohm) then measure the voltage between the two LED pins. I don't know how you would measure current accurately but it's usually 20-25ma ( would go with 20ma). Look around someone might have posted specs on the LED but if it's red it may be 2.2 voltage drop and if it's green or blue it's probably 3.5v.

Hope that helps!


----------



## Swuell

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Artah*
> 
> Are you trying to turn the LED on and off or dim it? Either way I don't think those channels come with a resistor so if it's maxed out you will need to add a resistor in series so you don't burn your stuff out. At max voltage @12V you will need to add a resistor that is around 470 Ohm 1/2 watt if the LED has a 3.5 voltage drop and a 20ma rating (need to know this info). Here is a calculator http://led.linear1.org/1led.wiz
> 
> You can check voltage drop by putting 12v on the LED with a 500 Ohm resistor in series (just to be safe use something higher than 470 Ohm) then measure the voltage between the two LED pins. I don't know how you would measure current accurately but it's usually 20-25ma ( would go with 20ma). Look around someone might have posted specs on the LED but if it's red it may be 2.2 voltage drop and if it's green or blue it's probably 3.5v.
> 
> Hope that helps!


Probably dim it? I heard that you could control the LED through it--even using a curve for dimming purposes--though I'm not sure how the curve would be used when dimming and the LED itself on the block is relatively small compared to a full LED strip.

I'm not sure how big the LED is... it's the LED that is attached to the H220X block itself so it shouldn't even max the voltage @12V? How would I check it?? :| The LED is a standard LED I'm sure you change colors by putting a clear plastic piece on the LED on the block.

EDIT: i'm not sure if this helps but the instructions on it state to plug the LED into the AUX port of the motherboard so it should be relatively small. :|


----------



## Swuell

Also if I wanted to control my H220x's pump and read it's tach line would I plug it in into the aquabus--since that's what I was planning on doing--though I was wondering if the Aquabus would just take my H220x's pwm 4 pin or I'd have to buy the aquabus cable? If so is there another cable I can buy that would connect these two together?


----------



## Artah

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Swuell*
> 
> Probably dim it? I heard that you could control the LED through it--even using a curve for dimming purposes--though I'm not sure how the curve would be used when dimming and the LED itself on the block is relatively small compared to a full LED strip.
> 
> I'm not sure how big the LED is... it's the LED that is attached to the H220X block itself so it shouldn't even max the voltage @12V? How would I check it?? :| The LED is a standard LED I'm sure you change colors by putting a clear plastic piece on the LED on the block.
> 
> EDIT: i'm not sure if this helps but the instructions on it state to plug the LED into the AUX port of the motherboard so it should be relatively small. :|


Oh ok so you're supposed to plug it into the extra fan header on the motherboard? Is it white when that fan header is full speed? I'm thinking that you have a white LED? It's going to be tough to dim that LED that is actually Red Blue and Green combined (no such thing as a true white LED) to produce white. Does it have more than 2 wires going to the LED? Controlling an RGB led usually requires PWM variation of 200-300Hz to trick your eyes to produce the dimming effect.

You can try voltage controlling it with a channel but be sure to put that resistor in series unless you know for sure that it does have it somewhere on the wire on near the connector. I'm thinking it may have it since it sounds like it's taking +5v input from the PWM pin (4th) on a fan header. Post a pic of that LED connector and the LED if you can since I can't find close-ups on it on the web. Change the channel on the aquaero so that it's voltage instead of PWM.

We will need to calculate what resistor you will need since it probably has one for a +5v supply vs what the aquaero is going to give it on the pin that supplies the power (this will not be the 4th pin).

An easier solution is possibly to buy that 5mm RGB LED from aquacomputer in place of the one that came with the H220X kit. I don't know if the sizes match but the aquacomputer LED plugs right into the RGB port of the aquaero 6 xt. You don't only have a dimming control with that but you also have color control. Use the clear plastic cover and it's a win.


----------



## Artah

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Swuell*
> 
> Also if I wanted to control my H220x's pump and read it's tach line would I plug it in into the aquabus--since that's what I was planning on doing--though I was wondering if the Aquabus would just take my H220x's pwm 4 pin or I'd have to buy the aquabus cable? If so is there another cable I can buy that would connect these two together?


Front page of this thread is information of issues controlling PWM pumps other than the one specifically hacked for the aquaero. You can definitely feed the signal of your pump into the aquaero though. I actually bought one of these PWM pumps directly from aquacomputer and it was defective. I returned it to them on super slow snail mail and I don't even know if they got it yet.

EDIT: I would feed the RPM signal into one of the fan channels or if anyone else has a better suggestion?


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Swuell*
> 
> Also if I wanted to control my H220x's pump and read it's tach line would I plug it in into the aquabus--since that's what I was planning on doing--though I was wondering if the Aquabus would just take my H220x's pwm 4 pin or I'd have to buy the aquabus cable? If so is there another cable I can buy that would connect these two together?


Not sure I understood your question. The h220x is a pwm pump so you connect it to a fan header in the Aquaero and configure that fan channel to pwm and voila you have control of your pump on the Aquaero. Aquabus is an interface for aquacomputer gear so far as I known, will not work with the h220x pump.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Swuell*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Artah*
> 
> Are you trying to turn the LED on and off or dim it? Either way I don't think those channels come with a resistor so if it's maxed out you will need to add a resistor in series so you don't burn your stuff out. At max voltage @12V you will need to add a resistor that is around 470 Ohm 1/2 watt if the LED has a 3.5 voltage drop and a 20ma rating (need to know this info). Here is a calculator http://led.linear1.org/1led.wiz
> 
> You can check voltage drop by putting 12v on the LED with a 500 Ohm resistor in series (just to be safe use something higher than 470 Ohm) then measure the voltage between the two LED pins. I don't know how you would measure current accurately but it's usually 20-25ma ( would go with 20ma). Look around someone might have posted specs on the LED but if it's red it may be 2.2 voltage drop and if it's green or blue it's probably 3.5v.
> 
> Hope that helps!
> 
> 
> 
> Probably dim it? I heard that you could control the LED through it--even using a curve for dimming purposes--though I'm not sure how the curve would be used when dimming and the LED itself on the block is relatively small compared to a full LED strip.
> 
> I'm not sure how big the LED is... it's the LED that is attached to the H220X block itself so it shouldn't even max the voltage @12V? How would I check it?? :| The LED is a standard LED I'm sure you change colors by putting a clear plastic piece on the LED on the block.
> 
> EDIT: i'm not sure if this helps but the instructions on it state to plug the LED into the AUX port of the motherboard so it should be relatively small. :|
Click to expand...

It is designed to be run at 12v.

You can try 2 things best would be to ask @BramSLI1 to see oh the led is voltage dimmable or pwm compatibility

You can dp this many ways.

plug it in to a fan header on the Aquaero either use voltage control or make a wiring adapter and send it to the pwm output.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Swuell*
> 
> Also if I wanted to control my H220x's pump and read it's tach line would I plug it in into the aquabus--since that's what I was planning on doing--though I was wondering if the Aquabus would just take my H220x's pwm 4 pin or I'd have to buy the aquabus cable? If so is there another cable I can buy that would connect these two together?


No no no

Don't do this you will damage something.

The above is for your block.

Your pump/rad led is a different story. You would have to either modify existing wiring or make custom wiring harness.

The res led shares the 12. With the pump. The pump could be damaged if using pwm. The 2 pwm ports ( Which I talked about above they are 2 pin) are not the same as a fan header ( 4 pin)

If you want to control the pump you will need to use a fan header not the Aquabus. The Aquabus is not compatible! .

You will need to set the fan header as pwm for this

One you ask Bramsli1 about the voltage control dimming vs pwm ( if the led are compatible I can help with custom wiring

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Artah*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Swuell*
> 
> Probably dim it? I heard that you could control the LED through it--even using a curve for dimming purposes--though I'm not sure how the curve would be used when dimming and the LED itself on the block is relatively small compared to a full LED strip.
> 
> I'm not sure how big the LED is... it's the LED that is attached to the H220X block itself so it shouldn't even max the voltage @12V? How would I check it?? :| The LED is a standard LED I'm sure you change colors by putting a clear plastic piece on the LED on the block.
> 
> EDIT: i'm not sure if this helps but the instructions on it state to plug the LED into the AUX port of the motherboard so it should be relatively small. :|
> 
> 
> 
> Oh ok so you're supposed to plug it into the extra fan header on the motherboard? Is it white when that fan header is full speed? I'm thinking that you have a white LED? It's going to be tough to dim that LED that is actually Red Blue and Green combined (no such thing as a true white LED) to produce white. Does it have more than 2 wires going to the LED? Controlling an RGB led usually requires PWM variation of 200-300Hz to trick your eyes to produce the dimming effect.
> 
> You can try voltage controlling it with a channel but be sure to put that resistor in series unless you know for sure that it does have it somewhere on the wire on near the connector. I'm thinking it may have it since it sounds like it's taking +5v input from the PWM pin (4th) on a fan header. Post a pic of that LED connector and the LED if you can since I can't find close-ups on it on the web. Change the channel on the aquaero so that it's voltage instead of PWM.
> 
> We will need to calculate what resistor you will need since it probably has one for a +5v supply vs what the aquaero is going to give it on the pin that supplies the power (this will not be the 4th pin).
> 
> An easier solution is possibly to buy that 5mm RGB LED from aquacomputer in place of the one that came with the H220X kit. I don't know if the sizes match but the aquacomputer LED plugs right into the RGB port of the aquaero 6 xt. You don't only have a dimming control with that but you also have color control. Use the clear plastic cover and it's a win.
Click to expand...

Not arguing but I know how swiftech does this, and usually not this easy unfortunately


----------



## LostParticle

@Shoggy

Is it normal that while the Aquasuite is running the computer does not idle completely, so down to 8x ?

Here is a screenshot showing my minimum Core Ratio after leaving my PC untouched for 15 minutes :


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!







As you can see if you look at the "Minimum" Core # Ratio it went down to only 31x

Here is the Overview Page I have created so far, it is still under construction, and it will occupy my entire second monitor (the Dell in my sig-rig) :


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!







So, when I will finish it and for as long as the Aquasuite will be running my computer will not be able to idle fully - down to 8x ?

[Thank God] The voltages are idling nicely, as you can observe.

Thank you.


----------



## Shoggy

In your case the fan icons are the problem - or at lest if you use the animated variant. Other than the graphs etc. the animations are rendered in software and will cause some CPU load. I recommend to remove the icons for a test. I guess that will solve the problem.


----------



## LostParticle

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> In your case the fan icons are the problem - or at lest if you use the animated variant. Other than the graphs etc. the animations are rendered in software and will cause some CPU load. I recommend to remove the icons for a test. I guess that will solve the problem.


Thank you, that has resolved the problem.

The new screenshot :


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!







Looking at the Averages of Core # Ratio, Total CPU Usage and Max CPU/Thread Usage, for the total of 15 minutes "untouched" that I've monitored it again, would you say that the Aquasuite is functioning 100% correctly/properly on my system? _Just asking to reassure that is it functioning the way it is supposed to.

Thank you._


----------



## Swuell

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Artah*
> 
> Front page of this thread is information of issues controlling PWM pumps other than the one specifically hacked for the aquaero. You can definitely feed the signal of your pump into the aquaero though. I actually bought one of these PWM pumps directly from aquacomputer and it was defective. I returned it to them on super slow snail mail and I don't even know if they got it yet.
> 
> EDIT: I would feed the RPM signal into one of the fan channels or if anyone else has a better suggestion?


I meant the fan header, I re-read the fan header and realized the Aquabus is not what I had originally thought it was ddespite it saying "RPM" : /. So feeding it into th fan header would it have to be by itself or would it work connected with fans -- as in would I be able to reae botb the fans and pump rpm from just one header?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Not sure I understood your question. The h220x is a pwm pump so you connect it to a fan header in the Aquaero and configure that fan channel to pwm and voila you have control of your pump on the Aquaero. Aquabus is an interface for aquacomputer gear so far as I known, will not work with the h220x pump.


Sorry I bad misread the intent of the Aquabus. Thanks.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> It is designed to be run at 12v.
> 
> You can try 2 things best would be to ask @BramSLI1 to see oh the led is voltage dimmable or pwm compatibility
> 
> You can dp this many ways.
> 
> plug it in to a fan header on the Aquaero either use voltage control or make a wiring adapter and send it to the pwm output.


Oh thanks.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> No no no
> 
> Don't do this you will damage something.
> 
> The above is for your block.
> 
> Your pump/rad led is a different story. You would have to either modify existing wiring or make custom wiring harness.
> 
> The res led shares the 12. With the pump. The pump could be damaged if using pwm. The 2 pwm ports ( Which I talked about above they are 2 pin) are not the same as a fan header ( 4 pin)
> 
> If you want to control the pump you will need to use a fan header not the Aquabus. The Aquabus is not compatible! .
> 
> You will need to set the fan header as pwm for this
> 
> One you ask Bramsli1 about the voltage control dimming vs pwm ( if the led are compatible I can help with custom wiring


Yeah sorry I misread the aquabus. Well since everything is controlled via pwm and you said I can out the pump into the fan header--so it wouldn't be desrroyed correct? Than would I have to do the fans and the pump separate or could I do the fans and the pumo together into one fn header and still be be able to read the rpms from both?


----------



## Swuell

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Artah*
> 
> Oh ok so you're supposed to plug it into the extra fan header on the motherboard? Is it white when that fan header is full speed? I'm thinking that you have a white LED? It's going to be tough to dim that LED that is actually Red Blue and Green combined (no such thing as a true white LED) to produce white. Does it have more than 2 wires going to the LED? Controlling an RGB led usually requires PWM variation of 200-300Hz to trick your eyes to produce the dimming effect.
> 
> You can try voltage controlling it with a channel but be sure to put that resistor in series unless you know for sure that it does have it somewhere on the wire on near the connector. I'm thinking it may have it since it sounds like it's taking +5v input from the PWM pin (4th) on a fan header. Post a pic of that LED connector and the LED if you can since I can't find close-ups on it on the web. Change the channel on the aquaero so that it's voltage instead of PWM.
> 
> We will need to calculate what resistor you will need since it probably has one for a +5v supply vs what the aquaero is going to give it on the pin that supplies the power (this will not be the 4th pin).
> 
> An easier solution is possibly to buy that 5mm RGB LED from aquacomputer in place of the one that came with the H220X kit. I don't know if the sizes match but the aquacomputer LED plugs right into the RGB port of the aquaero 6 xt. You don't only have a dimming control with that but you also have color control. Use the clear plastic cover and it's a win.


Not sure about the wiring since it's in the block unless I take it apart but I'm sure it's just the standard minimum and I'm supposed to plug it inti the AUX Header at least that's what it says. The LEDs are actually inside the block. :/


----------



## Shoggy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LostParticle*
> 
> Just asking to reassure that is it functioning the way it is supposed to.


I can not really tell if this is "normal" because the CPU utilization depends a lot on your individual configuration of all the elements. Also the gauge instruments can cause some CPU load.


----------



## LostParticle

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> I can not really tell if this is "normal" because the CPU utilization depends a lot on your individual configuration of all the elements. Also the gauge instruments can cause some CPU load.


All right, thank you, makes sense, anyway I'm planning to run the Aquasuite (overview pages) just when I will feel like it, so not all the time. My main monitoring tool is HWiNFO64. +REP.

IF you have some time, explain please what do you mean with "the CPU utilization depends a lot on your individual configuration of all the elements". Perhaps we will all learn something. The elements I use have been left on their default settings, besides the Gauges which I have customized. Is it possible to configure them differently to obtain even lower CPU Usage? Does it have to do with the Δt? Just asking to improve my Overview page any way I can.

Thank you.


----------



## Shoggy

If for example you add a chart with many different values and also a larger time frame it means that the software has to crunch a lot of data to visualize it. Most of the graphics are processed by the graphics card directly so they cause almost no CPU load but all the calculations in the background do


----------



## LostParticle

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> If for example you add a chart with many different values and also *a larger time frame* it means that the software has to crunch a lot of data to visualize it. Most of the graphics are processed by the graphics card directly so they cause almost no CPU load but all the calculations in the background do


To realize if I understand you correctly:
- Higher Δt (for example, > 15m) means higher CPU load / usage
- Lower Δt (for example, < 5m) would mean lower CPU load / usage?


----------



## Shoggy

I was talking about the CPU load that these elements cause.


----------



## LostParticle

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I was talking about the CPU load that these elements cause.


Yeah, and so what is it with the funny face?! I ask(ed) you what's the connection between Δt and CPU Load, *IF* there's any. So, is it then?

Example: Let's say that I use one element to show me the Core#0 Ratio. At its default Δt, 15m I think, it will cause an X cpu usage. IF I will then set its Δt to 30 min , will this cause less cpu load/usage or more?
I am just trying to understand IF there is a connection between set Δt and CPU usage or not.


----------



## Artah

@Swuell

You can only put one signal into a channel. If you had a fan and the pump feeding it then they would interfere with each other. It is possible to plug in the fan but disconnect the 3rd pin from fan (RPM signal) and feed the pump RPM on there instead. You can still control the fan with the controller but read the pump RPM on that channel.


----------



## Shoggy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LostParticle*
> 
> Example: Let's say that I use one element to show me the Core#0 Ratio. At its default Δt, 15m I think, it will cause an X cpu usage. IF I will then set its Δt to 30 min , will this cause less cpu load/usage or more?


Of course this will generate a _higher_ load since you have more data to process. A longer time means more data points that are used.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Swuell*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Artah*
> 
> Front page of this thread is information of issues controlling PWM pumps other than the one specifically hacked for the aquaero. You can definitely feed the signal of your pump into the aquaero though. I actually bought one of these PWM pumps directly from aquacomputer and it was defective. I returned it to them on super slow snail mail and I don't even know if they got it yet.
> 
> EDIT: I would feed the RPM signal into one of the fan channels or if anyone else has a better suggestion?
> 
> 
> 
> I meant the fan header, I re-read the fan header and realized the Aquabus is not what I had originally thought it was ddespite it saying "RPM" : /. So feeding it into th fan header would it have to be by itself or would it work connected with fans -- as in would I be able to reae botb the fans and pump rpm from just one header?
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Not sure I understood your question. The h220x is a pwm pump so you connect it to a fan header in the Aquaero and configure that fan channel to pwm and voila you have control of your pump on the Aquaero. Aquabus is an interface for aquacomputer gear so far as I known, will not work with the h220x pump.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Sorry I bad misread the intent of the Aquabus. Thanks.
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> It is designed to be run at 12v.
> 
> You can try 2 things best would be to ask @BramSLI1 to see oh the led is voltage dimmable or pwm compatibility
> 
> You can dp this many ways.
> 
> plug it in to a fan header on the Aquaero either use voltage control or make a wiring adapter and send it to the pwm output.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Oh thanks.
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> No no no
> 
> Don't do this you will damage something.
> 
> The above is for your block.
> 
> Your pump/rad led is a different story. You would have to either modify existing wiring or make custom wiring harness.
> 
> The res led shares the 12. With the pump. The pump could be damaged if using pwm. The 2 pwm ports ( Which I talked about above they are 2 pin) are not the same as a fan header ( 4 pin)
> 
> If you want to control the pump you will need to use a fan header not the Aquabus. The Aquabus is not compatible! .
> 
> You will need to set the fan header as pwm for this
> 
> One you ask Bramsli1 about the voltage control dimming vs pwm ( if the led are compatible I can help with custom wiring
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Yeah sorry I misread the aquabus. Well since everything is controlled via pwm and you said I can out the pump into the fan header--so it wouldn't be desrroyed correct? Than would I have to do the fans and the pump separate or could I do the fans and the pumo together into one fn header and still be be able to read the rpms from both?
Click to expand...

There is a way to do this. I can pm you when I get home. Send me a pm when you can to remind me.

On mobile and at work so I can't spend alot of time
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LostParticle*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> I can not really tell if this is "normal" because the CPU utilization depends a lot on your individual configuration of all the elements. Also the gauge instruments can cause some CPU load.
> 
> 
> 
> All right, thank you, makes sense, anyway I'm planning to run the Aquasuite (overview pages) just when I will feel like it, so not all the time. My main monitoring tool is HWiNFO64. +REP.
> 
> IF you have some time, explain please what do you mean with "the CPU utilization depends a lot on your individual configuration of all the elements". Perhaps we will all learn something. The elements I use have been left on their default settings, besides the Gauges which I have customized. Is it possible to configure them differently to obtain even lower CPU Usage? Does it have to do with the Δt? Just asking to improve my Overview page any way I can.
> 
> Thank you.
Click to expand...

He could not tell you that as everyone has different background programs


----------



## LostParticle

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> ...
> 
> He could not tell you that as everyone has different background programs


It's all right, I think I figured it out: a loaded Aquasuite overview page has an average of 3.5% - 5% total CPU usage, whereas the CPU Ratios rarely idle (8x); they usually fluctuate around 30x - something. No problem: an overview page is eye-candy (for me), I have no issue "charging" my system a tad, now and then, to enjoy it.

Thank you.


----------



## Swuell

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Artah*
> 
> @Swuell
> 
> You can only put one signal into a channel. If you had a fan and the pump feeding it then they would interfere with each other. It is possible to plug in the fan but disconnect the 3rd pin from fan (RPM signal) and feed the pump RPM on there instead. You can still control the fan with the controller but read the pump RPM on that channel.


Oh huh so what is everybody doing then with 4 ports only for reading rpms -- that is quite limiting reading rpm wise. :|
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> There is a way to do this. I can pm you when I get home. Send me a pm when you can to remind me.
> 
> On mobile and at work so I can't spend alot of time


Ok thanks!
Just sent you a PM inquiring about this.

EDIT: by the way you're profile pic -- NICE!







I love old school MegaMan/RockMan!


----------



## Ironsmack

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Swuell*
> 
> Oh huh so what is everybody doing then with 4 ports only for reading rpms -- that is quite limiting reading rpm wise.


What he meant was, you need one device (pump, or fan) to report RPM signal to the headers. If you have both devices reporting an RPM signal, then you don't have an accurate way to read the RPM's.

Just have the pump connected to one header. And the fans on another.

You really don't need to read the RPM on all the fans (if they're all the same ones).


----------



## Swuell

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ironsmack*
> 
> What he meant was, you need one device (pump, or fan) to report RPM signal to the headers. If you have both devices reporting an RPM signal, then you don't have an accurate way to read the RPM's.
> 
> Just have the pump connected to one header. And the fans on another.
> 
> You really don't need to read the RPM on all the fans (if they're all the same ones).


Well they're not all the same ones is the problem :|. That's why I wanted a rpm readout. And I understood what he was saying but I was saying what everybody else was doing for the ones that didn't have the same fans and wanted readouts from multiple fans and a pump?


----------



## Shoggy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Swuell*
> 
> I love old school MegaMan/RockMan!


But... but I love him more


----------



## Mega Man




----------



## timepart

Does anyone know where I can get an Aquacomputer water filter? Just looking to have it in place to catch the gunk that could prospectively fall out of the radiator.


----------



## electro2u

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *timepart*
> 
> Does anyone know where I can get an Aquacomputer water filter? Just looking to have it in place to catch the gunk that could prospectively fall out of the radiator.


Performancepcs sells them now


----------



## gdubc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *timepart*
> 
> Does anyone know where I can get an Aquacomputer water filter? Just looking to have it in place to catch the gunk that could prospectively fall out of the radiator.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> Performancepcs sells them now


PPCS is out of stock but they are just under $40 shipped to me in Colorado direct from Aquacomputer's webshop. Pretty cheap to go direct right now. http://shop.aquacomputer.de/product_info.php?products_id=2421

Edit: also would make it more of a value if you needed a couple more things from them, such as the new d5 pwm for around $65 or an aquaero 6xt for around $160.


----------



## timepart

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gdubc*
> 
> PPCS is out of stock but they are just under $40 shipped to me in Colorado direct from Aquacomputer's webshop. Pretty cheap to go direct right now. http://shop.aquacomputer.de/product_info.php?products_id=2421
> 
> Edit: also would make it more of a value if you needed a couple more things from them, such as the new d5 pwm for around $65 or an aquaero 6xt for around $160.


Id go direct if it wasnt a weak dollar conversion as well as shipping from Germany. The d5 pwm is 75 euro and the 6xt is over 220$ from PPC. I have a Aquaero 5 xt with water block







,2 power adjust 2's, 2 in line temp sensors from Aquaero, and finally a 200 series g1/4 flow meter. For over 100 for a pump alone from them it wouldnt be worth it. I am fine with my current Alphacool D5 Vario. I get all my parts soon here and cant wait to put it all together and try it out.


----------



## RedGreenGeek

Hi

I have an aquaero 6 LT in my system.

I want the aquaero to start an additional intake fan, when my PSU spins up, which happens at a psu temp setting, which is unknown to me.

Do you have any advice how to make the to follow each other. Currently I have it starting at a delta setting, but when it starts my delta drops, and it stops again, thus I get a fluctuating delta.

I don't want it to spin all the time, as I am trying to balance my airflow, to avoid resistance.


----------



## gdubc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *timepart*
> 
> Id go direct if it wasnt a weak dollar conversion as well as shipping from Germany. The d5 pwm is 75 euro and the 6xt is over 220$ from PPC. I have a Aquaero 5 xt with water block
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ,2 power adjust 2's, 2 in line temp sensors from Aquaero, and finally a 200 series g1/4 flow meter. For over 100 for a pump alone from them it wouldnt be worth it. I am fine with my current Alphacool D5 Vario. I get all my parts soon here and cant wait to put it all together and try it out.


I wasn't sure where you lived but the dollar is fairly good converted to euro right now, like 1 euro to 1.08 usd. Price I quoted filter at $40 is what I would pay shipped to me all said and done so it was about the same as PPCS at $32.95 before shipping. I ordered last week and paid 151 euro for the 6xt, much better than the $220 PPCS is charging, and the pump was 63 euro, which, if I could even find at a U.S. retailer, would surely be at least $95. Just depends on everyone's personal circumstances I guess.


----------



## Dagamus NM

Right? I have no idea why someone would think the dollar is weak against the euro. It is about as strong as it has been, yes it dropped from 1/1.08 to 1/1.09 but still. Why anybody would think the dollar is weak is beyond me.

I am very tempted to order some more rads from overseas. I need four to six more single circuit 420mm rads, another 36-48 140mm ps-pk fans, and probably a few of those pretty filters.

Hopefully I will be buying four r9 390x blocks and four 980ti blocks before the end of summer.


----------



## timepart

When I went to Germany last, the dollar was up to 1.5/1 and 1/1.6 which made it quite expensive for traveling, but I hadn't really checked prices since those trips.


----------



## Dagamus NM

No idea how long ago that was but they are as close to 1:1 as they have ever been. Greece will take it beyond as long as we don't get into another overseas conflict.


----------



## Ganf

Hey Shoggy,

Can I bridge two channels of the Aquaero 6 without causing any problems with it?

I.E. I want to run 60 watts instead of 30 watts, so I wire together two of the positive lines from different channels.

Would I need to bridge the negatives also to prevent any possible issues? I've done a few stereo bridgings where it wasn't necessary to double up on the negative side, but stereo equipment is much less sensitive than the Aquaero.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

The dollar/euro price break is even better if you get it from Aquatuning instead of Aquacomputer since Aquatuning has much cheaper and super-fast $8 for 2-3 day shipping (or $12 for 1-2 day) compared to Aquatuning's ~14 day Deutsche Post DHL with no tracking that will cost you several times that.


----------



## VSG

Their base price is way higher for me compared to the Aquacomputer shop


----------



## timepart

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> The dollar/euro price break is even better if you get it from Aquatuning instead of Aquacomputer since Aquatuning has much cheaper and super-fast $8 for 2-3 day shipping (or $12 for 1-2 day) compared to Aquatuning's ~14 day Deutsche Post DHL with no tracking that will cost you several times that.


Thanks! I think thats even cheaper than some routes with PPC. A basic shipment from them was 12$ on the cheapest method. Im playing around with using a pond pump (strong one) and flushing the rads out fully. Start with a clean slate. If I do however keep getting Supremacy Evo flakes in my block I will tear down and install the AC filter.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Their base price is way higher for me compared to the Aquacomputer shop


I guess it depends on what you are ordering. Some things there definitely are more expensive,

My most recent order with Aquacomputer was a 232€ ($250) order placed on Mar 20 (an Aquaero and a few related items) and on top of that shipping was 34.90€ ($37.60) plus a 1.7% Fee: 3,96€ ($4.27) and I'm still waiting for it to show up but I have no tracking so it will get here whenever.

My most recent order from Aquatuning was placed on Mar 9 for $275 for a couple rads and some fans and they charged $8 for "Customs fairy USA" and $7.16 for shipping and I received it on Mar 13.

In either case the total cost was much better ordering from Germany than it was from anywhere in the US.


----------



## GetToTheChopaa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> The dollar/euro price break is even better if you get it from Aquatuning instead of Aquacomputer since Aquatuning has much cheaper and super-fast $8 for 2-3 day shipping (or $12 for 1-2 day) compared to Aquatuning's ~14 day Deutsche Post DHL with no tracking that will cost you several times that.


I got some stuff from Aquatuning some couple of weeks ago and the shipping is indeed incredibly fast, faster than any US based store I ordered before. But they didn't subtract VAT for me and I only noticed after I received the order. I contacted them by email and initially they just asked for a VAT ID, Which of course I don't have and no one else I know in the US. Replied with that, only to receive a " we checked your order and VAT was not included in your order", which was in fact not the case ! After sending them a broken down calculation of what the cost of my order should have been, bar shipping, US sales tax that they collect and custom fees, I have not heard from them again...








Apologies if it sounds more like a rant than anything else!








My order consisted of some Aquacomputer "toys" and for whatever reason it didn't occur to me that I could get them from the Aquacomputer shop. Still have a bunch of other AC goodies to get and it will be from the AquaComputer website because they do subtract VAT and although the shipping charge is more, it ends up being ~50$ cheaper compared to Aquatuning.
Is it one of those things and I draw the short straw, or any of you guys had this experience with Aquatuning?


----------



## VSG

Yeah I think I need to get an Aquaero or two and some accessories for the test rig soon, with my build about to resume again and definitely it is better from abroad than the US even with the fairy taking her share lol.


----------



## CaliLife17

Okay so after 6+ Months of building my new (Had a leak, had an issue with a pump, changed GPU's, changed CPU block, changed PSU, etc) I was finally able to turn it on for the first time and install windows. So I am now booted into windows setting everything up.

So I have aquasuite 2015 installed, I have an Aquaero 6 with 2 Aquacomputer d5's attached to high flow aquabus via y splitter. I have already changed the ID on one of the pumps to 14 (13 is a bad #, so choose 14), so the software is reading both of them. My issue is, no matter what I do under pump settings, change to manual preset, change to automatic speed, Change preset % under manual, Pump 1 stays at 4687 RPM/78Hz, and Pump 2 stays at 3128 RPM/52Hz.

I cant get any of them to show any RPM change at all. What am I doing wrong?

Thanks


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CaliLife17*
> 
> Okay so after 6+ Months of building my new (Had a leak, had an issue with a pump, changed GPU's, changed CPU block, changed PSU, etc) I was finally able to turn it on for the first time and install windows. So I am now booted into windows setting everything up.
> 
> So I have aquasuite 2015 installed, I have an Aquaero 6 with 2 Aquacomputer d5's attached to high flow aquabus via y splitter. I have already changed the ID on one of the pumps to 14 (13 is a bad #, so choose 14), so the software is reading both of them. My issue is, no matter what I do under pump settings, change to manual preset, change to automatic speed, Change preset % under manual, Pump 1 stays at 4687 RPM/78Hz, and Pump 2 stays at 3128 RPM/52Hz.
> 
> I cant get any of them to show any RPM change at all. What am I doing wrong?
> 
> Thanks


Have you set priority on both pumps to Aquabus? Do you have the pumps also connected via USB?


----------



## CaliLife17

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Have you set priority on both pumps to Aquabus? Do you have the pumps also connected via USB?


Did not set anything to Aquabus, where would I do that?

Pumps are not longer connected via USB. I only connected 1 via USB to change ID. then shutdown Comp, unplugged USB, and have both plugged into Aquaero 6 XT. The Aquaero is then connected to MB via USB.

Thanks


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CaliLife17*
> 
> Did not set anything to Aquabus, where would I do that?
> 
> Pumps are not longer connected via USB. I only connected 1 via USB to change ID. then shutdown Comp, unplugged USB, and have both plugged into Aquaero 6 XT. The Aquaero is then connected to MB via USB.
> 
> Thanks


Have my usb not connected right now but if I recall correctly you need to have connected via usb to motherboard to be able to change the bus address and priority. It is in the same place you change the address.

Ok just checked here. Just above the address (conencted via USB) you set priority Aquabus. Besides the rpm is reported in the alarm section of the MPS (pump) window. Hope the priority thing solve your control problem


----------



## gdubc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> The dollar/euro price break is even better if you get it from Aquatuning instead of Aquacomputer since Aquatuning has much cheaper and super-fast $8 for 2-3 day shipping (or $12 for 1-2 day) compared to Aquatuning's ~14 day Deutsche Post DHL with no tracking that will cost you several times that.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Their base price is way higher for me compared to the Aquacomputer shop


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GetToTheChopaa*
> 
> I got some stuff from Aquatuning some couple of weeks ago and the shipping is indeed incredibly fast, faster than any US based store I ordered before. But they didn't subtract VAT for me and I only noticed after I received the order. I contacted them by email and initially they just asked for a VAT ID, Which of course I don't have and no one else I know in the US. Replied with that, only to receive a " we checked your order and VAT was not included in your order", which was in fact not the case ! After sending them a broken down calculation of what the cost of my order should have been, bar shipping, US sales tax that they collect and custom fees, I have not heard from them again...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Apologies if it sounds more like a rant than anything else!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My order consisted of some Aquacomputer "toys" and for whatever reason it didn't occur to me that I could get them from the Aquacomputer shop. Still have a bunch of other AC goodies to get and it will be from the AquaComputer website because they do subtract VAT and although the shipping charge is more, it ends up being ~50$ cheaper compared to Aquatuning.
> Is it one of those things and I draw the short straw, or any of you guys had this experience with Aquatuning?


If you order from aquatuning in the US, the prices are much higher on Aquatuning.us than they are on Aquatuning.de.
On aquatuning.us the prices on the item pages say they include vat, but if so, I would guess that as the US has no vat that nothing is actually added. So when you checkout, the final page dies say: "final amount without vat" for the total.

To my door shipped the aquaero 6xt is:

$213.03 (194.22 +7.16 shipping +11.65 customs) from Aquatuning.us

$186.67 (162.70 +23.97 shipping) from Aquatuning.de

$205.45 (164.64 +38.00 shipping +2.80 paypal fee) from Aquacomputer's direct shop.

Basically it pays to shop around. I didn't realize the difference in the aquatuning sites until after I ordered from Aquacomputer. I got an Aquaero 6xt, the pwm d5, 3 blk passive coolers for the aquaero and 2 soggy sandwichs. Unicr0nhunter is correct though, it would have saved me about $15 if I would have noticed that difference sooner and I would probably already have my order I placed on March 16th instead of impatiently finger drumming the table.

I find it funny that Unicr0nhunter is in my phones predictive text, lol


----------



## Mega Man

i think at least android anything on the webpage is in the dict


----------



## Shoggy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ganf*
> 
> Can I bridge two channels of the Aquaero 6 without causing any problems with it?


Not possible.


----------



## Georgey123

Hey guys, anyone here have darkside LED's connected to their Aquaero 6? I'm a tad confused with how to connect them. I believe you need the relay output for them to work. Has anyone got a photo they can upload? Do you just plug the led connector into the relay?

Cheers


----------



## Shoggy

Darkside LEDs? I did not even know that Vader is trading LEDs now









Using them on the two PWM ports with the 2-pin plugs should work fine but you can not plug them just into it. You have to cut the wires or use an adapter piece. You could also connect them directly to a fan channel if you have on left.


----------



## Jakusonfire

I have darkside dimmable strips connected to the 2 pin PWM power ports. You just cut the connector off and the PWM port connectors have screw clamps for bare wires.


----------



## Georgey123

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> Darkside LEDs? I did not even know that Vader is trading LEDs now
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Using them on the two PWM ports with the 2-pin plugs should work fine but you can not plug them just into it. You have to cut the wires or use an adapter piece. You could also connect them directly to a fan channel if you have on left.


Hahahah







. Makes sense then, wasnt sure if they just plugged in or not. So its completely fine to use the pwm channel for the LEDS's? +Rep
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> I have darkside dimmable strips connected to the 2 pin PWM power ports. You just cut the connector off and the PWM port connectors have screw clamps for bare wires.


Got ya, as said above. Was not sure if they just plugged into the relays or not. Cheers







+Rep


----------



## timepart

Confused at what this cable does. I was told it makes a d5 vario into a voltage controlled pump via Power Adjust. Maybe someone can lead me to the real use of this cable.
Thanks!


----------



## Mega Man

you were told correct the first pic you plug into the pump ( fat 4pin to fat 4pin and fan 3pin to fan 3pin ) then the other end you plug into the aquaero


----------



## Dagamus NM

Thank you @shoggy I got my replacement faceplate in the mail today. I guess I hadn't really looked all that close at the back side of these things, a lot more electronics and stuff than just a piece of aluminum and glass.

Anyway, good looking out. Aquacomputer is the best!


----------



## WiLd FyeR

Any other ideas on how to mount the Aquaero instead of the usual bay drive.


----------



## Mega Man

Any way you can think of


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiLd FyeR*
> 
> Any other ideas on how to mount the Aquaero instead of the usual bay drive.


you can always mount it sideways inside the case. Another alternative is in the top of the case if your case stays on the floor.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Don't meant to intrude, and at the risk of coming off rude.
There must be 50 ways to mount your Aquaero.
You can slip in the back, Jack
If it will fit on the floor, Moore
Or on the side, Clyde.
Anywhere that's free, Lee.
Just listen to me.


----------



## timepart

I have a 5 way fan splitter pcb board for 3 pin fans. When I connect it to my aquaero 5 it seems to only run at 100%. Is there some step I am missing? I have my minimum power set to 25% and max power to 90%~ fans still stay at the top end.

http://www.xoxide.com/modmytoys-3pcb-5wayblock.html


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *timepart*
> 
> I have a 5 way fan splitter pcb board for 3 pin fans. When I connect it to my aquaero 5 it seems to only run at 100%. Is there some step I am missing? I have my minimum power set to 25% and max power to 90%~ fans still stay at the top end.


Did you set the ch4 header (the only pwm capable channel on the AQ5) to pwm control?
'Outputs' > 'Fans' > 'Fan 4' > set 'Control mode' to 'PWM control'

If that's not it I'm not sure what's going on.

ooopps, my bad. I thought you were running pwm fans off a pwm splitter. Sorry I completely misread.

If these are 3-pin fans on a 3-pin splitter that's attached to CH4 then similar to my bad advice above you might check to make sure the header has not been set to 'pwm control' which would run voltage control fans at a full 12v all the time.


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *timepart*
> 
> I have a 5 way fan splitter pcb board for 3 pin fans. When I connect it to my aquaero 5 it seems to only run at 100%. Is there some step I am missing? I have my minimum power set to 25% and max power to 90%~ fans still stay at the top end.


Does the board have a separate power input, like a 4 pin molex plug or something? Or are the only connections the fans and the Aquaero?


----------



## timepart

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> Does the board have a separate power input, like a 4 pin molex plug or something? Or are the only connections the fans and the Aquaero?


Sorry I forgot the link! Its 3 pin fan in and then it splits to 3 pin fan x 5. No molex since its not a pwm controller

http://www.xoxide.com/modmytoys-3pcb-5wayblock.html


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *timepart*
> 
> Sorry I forgot the link! Its 3 pin fan in and then it splits to 3 pin fan x 5. No molex since its not a pwm controller
> 
> http://www.xoxide.com/modmytoys-3pcb-5wayblock.html


Ok, cool so we know it must be a settings issue. Have you got the channel(s) the fans are on assigned to a controller? If the channels are unassigned they run at 100% (which is just dumb but thats what we live with now)


----------



## timepart

Here is the setting, I only have one fan pcb set up on this with 2 corsair sp120 quiet edition fans.


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *timepart*
> 
> Here is the setting, I only have one fan pcb set up on this with 2 corsair sp120 quiet edition fans.


That looks like it is working fine. The fan channel is on the preset controller at 80% and its putting out 10V for the fans to spin at 1100ishrpm


----------



## timepart

Is there any way to get the fan speed constant? The current to each fan fluctuates between 0 and .08A, having .08A being the current of each fan in this system. It just goes between 0 and .08 for this 2 fan setup. RPM fluctuates by 300 constantly for this also.

With the above graph taking data from my water temp sensor (at 24 C) shouldn't the fans be operating much slower? I wanted to set the graph up that when water temp hit 40 it would operate at 80% on fans and before that point having them spin much slower.


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *timepart*
> 
> Is there any way to get the fan speed constant? The current to each fan fluctuates between 0 and .08A, having .08A being the current of each fan in this system. It just goes between 0 and .08 for this 2 fan setup. RPM fluctuates by 300 constantly for this also.
> 
> With the above graph taking data from my water temp sensor (at 24 C) shouldn't the fans be operating much slower? I wanted to set the graph up that when water temp hit 40 it would operate at 80% on fans and before that point having them spin much slower.


The curve controller has no fan channels assigned to it. You gotta click the little + on the right hand column and add the fan channel the fans are on.
You can see the curve controller is putting out 11% at that temp but it has no channels to control

Fluctuating fan speeds is probably because you have multiple RPM signals being fed to the controller. You need to modify the wiring so that only a single fans speed signal is fed to the Aquaero


----------



## timepart

I could cut the yellow wire correct, to all but the one fan I want to get speeds from. From what I gather that is the only way to remove the tach from fans and have power still sent to it. I could be wrong though.


----------



## Artah

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *timepart*
> 
> I could cut the yellow wire correct, to all but the one fan I want to get speeds from. From what I gather that is the only way to remove the tach from fans and have power still sent to it. I could be wrong though.


Phobya has a hub that does not have a connection to the fan's tach except for one.

http://www.amazon.com/Phobya-4-Pin-Splitter-Power-Eight/dp/B00OD7MO6E/ref=pd_sim_pc_2?ie=UTF8&refRID=1REK6YRCJCQZG9NP3PTW

I actually modified one board made by ModMyToys so that there is only 1 fan giving signal on one of my rigs.


----------



## timepart

Can you go into how to modify one of those modmytoys boards?! I want to use 3 of these in my next build. Technically you could just cut the one pin on the board right? I have one of those pwm phobia controllers also, but no pwm fans are in my repitoire


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *timepart*
> 
> I could cut the yellow wire correct, to all but the one fan I want to get speeds from. From what I gather that is the only way to remove the tach from fans and have power still sent to it. I could be wrong though.


You could do anything from something as simple as depinning the fans rpm wires from the connector and leave it sitting outside of the connector, to modifying the board by clipping the RPM pins from the connectors of all but one output or cutting the PCB trace for rpms after the first output on the underside of the board.


----------



## Artah

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *timepart*
> 
> Can you go into how to modify one of those modmytoys boards?! I want to use 3 of these in my next build. Technically you could just cut the one pin on the board right? I have one of those pwm phobia controllers also, but no pwm fans are in my repitoire


I'm referring to this one.

http://www.performance-pcs.com/modmytoys-4-pin-pwm-low-profile-power-distribution-pcb-8-way-block.html

The issue with this board is the one that is off to the side by itself is the one that you're supposed to plug into the controller. Well the RPM pin is connected to all the ports. On the back of the board (this board slides out easily by the way) you can trace that 3rd pin so that it is connected to only 1 fan and you cut off the rpm pin connection to the other ports. I think I cut off only 1 or two traces on the board. That's exactly how the Phobya 8 port board is setup so if you get that one then you're good to go without modifying it. Here is the Phobya version. http://www.amazon.com/Phobya-4-Pin-Splitter-Power-Eight/dp/B00OD7MO6E/ref=pd_sim_pc_2?ie=UTF8&refRID=1REK6YRCJCQZG9NP3PTW

I can post a pic of what I did when I get home from work but if you'd rather cut off the wires on your fans then you don't need do to this.

I prefer not to cut off the wires on my fans because it lowers the resale value


----------



## timepart

I also prefer not to cut my fan wires, if you could post up what you did I would appreciate it. Thanks!

Long as it is not for pwm fans and it applies also to "standard" fans without pwm modulation


----------



## Jakusonfire

http://www.overclock.net/t/1474470/ocn-aquaero-owners-club/1100#post_22527313


----------



## timepart

I would then mar the pin path that goes with the ending wire, being in this case the yellow?


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *timepart*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I would then mar the pin path that goes with the ending wire, being in this case the yellow?


the yellow pin the the tacho. There are several things that can be happening on fan channel 3. Try looking at that fan header properties and switching between pwm and the other two types (power and rpm). Also check minimum and maximum signal. Then also check the fan channel assignment to the controler and the properties of that controller.


----------



## Artah

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *timepart*
> 
> I also prefer not to cut my fan wires, if you could post up what you did I would appreciate it. Thanks!
> 
> Long as it is not for pwm fans and it applies also to "standard" fans without pwm modulation


This is the front view. That yellow pin is the RPM and I traced it down to make sure it is still connected to one fan.



This is the PCB, you see the two cuts that I did so that the line with the RPM is disconnected for all other channels except for the main input channel and one of the fan channels.



Here is the rough diagram for my mod and sorry for the fail drawing skills.



Let me know if you need more details but the 8 channel is exactly the same way.


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Artah*
> 
> This is the front view. That yellow pin is the RPM and I traced it down to make sure it is still connected to one fan.
> 
> 
> 
> This is the PCB, you see the two cuts that I did so that the line with the RPM is disconnected for all other channels except for the main input channel and one of the fan channels.
> 
> 
> 
> Here is the rough diagram for my mod and sorry for the fail drawing skills.
> 
> 
> 
> Let me know if you need more details but the 8 channel is exactly the same way.


On that model all you need to do is cut the short wires on the front of the PCB


----------



## Artah

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> On that model all you need to do is cut the short wires on the front of the PCB


That's an option but there is one that you can't cut, the one closest to the input channel. Make sure you have a fan on the channel that does not use a jumper to connect the RPM line with a short wire. It's the one near the sata power connector which I did not use at all for mine.

I chose not to cut those because I didn't want to get my fingers stung one day by those pins.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

That's pretty cool to see how to make the tach mod to that PWM PCB. Artah gets a rep for that from me.









Is it this one?

http://www.performance-pcs.com/modmytoys-4-pin-pwm-power-low-profile-distribution-pcb-6-way-block.html

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> On that model all you need to do is cut the short wires on the front of the PCB


What wires would you cut so only one fan's tach is active? I'm just curious although I generally would think that scratching out the correct trace(s) on the back of the pcb would be preferable aesthetically-speaking at least.



In any case, timepart said he's using the 5-Way 3-Pin PCB (this one) and in that case Jakusonfire already linked to a post showing the easiest way to mod that one so only one fan is reporting rpms to the header/controller.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1474470/ocn-aquaero-owners-club/1100#post_22527313


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> That's pretty cool to see how to make the tach mod to that PWM PCB. Artah gets a rep for that from me.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Is it this one?
> 
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/modmytoys-4-pin-pwm-power-low-profile-distribution-pcb-6-way-block.html
> What wires would you cut so only one fan's tach is active? I'm just curious although I generally would think that scratching out the correct trace(s) on the back of the pcb would be preferable aesthetically-speaking at least.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In any case, timepart said he's using the 5-Way 3-Pin PCB (this one) and in that case Jakusonfire already linked to a post showing the easiest way to mod that one so only one fan is reporting rpms to the header/controller.


On the new low profile models you can see how there are 6 fan headers and only 5 sets of double wires. One header is fully connected without the extra bridging wires so you can cut them all except for the ones next to the input. Its quite easy to trim the short wires right off so it still looks neat but could be easily re-soldered in the future if that was ever wanted.


----------



## iBored

Help! I connect by 2 D5 pumps with a 3 pin splitter to the Aquabus High speed channel. Its not reading the pumps.
My pumps are constantly running at 100%. Its not loud, but it bugs me.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iBored*
> 
> Help! I connect by 2 D5 pumps with a 3 pin splitter to the Aquabus High speed channel. Its not reading the pumps.
> My pumps are constantly running at 100%. Its not loud, but it bugs me.


connect both via usb first. Change the bus address of one of the pumps. Set priority to aquabus on both. See if now you have control over it even without the usb connection. Make sure to connect both to the high aquabus port.


----------



## iBored

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> connect both via usb first. Change the bus address of one of the pumps. Set priority to aquabus on both. See if now you have control over it even without the usb connection. Make sure to connect both to the high aquabus port.


Both pumps worked with the USB connection. Changed pump power to 80% for both, Aquabus priority address 12 and 13. Disconnected and reconnected aquabus cables, then nothing. I'd probably leave it till I redo my pump mounts anyway. Its too much of a hassle to dig under to reach the connectors.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iBored*
> 
> Both pumps worked with the USB connection. Changed pump power to 80% for both, Aquabus priority address 12 and 13. Disconnected and reconnected aquabus cables, then nothing. I'd probably leave it till I redo my pump mounts anyway. Its too much of a hassle to dig under to reach the connectors.


you can leave both cables if you want (usb and aquabus). My guess is the cable Y. Is not the Aquacomputer one is it? If you use the aquacomputer aquabus cable as a simple PWM cable splitter the PWM fans will not work. So I am guessing using a simply Y pwm will not work on the pumps either (the reverse situation)....


----------



## iBored

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> you can leave both cables if you want (usb and aquabus). My guess is the cable Y. Is not the Aquacomputer one is it? If you use the aquacomputer aquabus cable as a simple PWM cable splitter the PWM fans will not work. So I am guessing using a simply Y pwm will not work on the pumps either (the reverse situation)....


Why is that?


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iBored*
> 
> Why is that?


the cable? No clue mate. Just reporting what I found empirically. I tried before to use the Y aquabus cable as a PWM splitter for two pwm fans and did not work out. If you have any pwm fans you can test yourself.


----------



## Ironsmack

Do you guys have any problem with a (-) negative temp reported by the virtual sensors?

Aquaero suite is reporting that my outside temp is (10C+) hotter than my rad temp. Which in reality, my room temp is around 22C. This only happens when i turn the computer off for 8+ hours.

Its not a big deal - i just delete the virtual sensor temp and choose my CPU or GPU temp. Then it kickstart the fans until the delta T goes within the parameters i set.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ironsmack*
> 
> Do you guys have any problem with a (-) negative temp reported by the virtual sensors?
> 
> Aquaero suite is reporting that my outside temp is (10C+) hotter than my rad temp. Which in reality, my room temp is around 22C. This only happens when i turn the computer off for 8+ hours.
> 
> Its not a big deal - i just delete the virtual sensor temp and choose my CPU or GPU temp. Then it kickstart the fans until the delta T goes within the parameters i set.


you can use the absolute difference in the virtual sensor?


----------



## Artah

Apologies if this is a dupe. Does anyone have any experience with this pump using Aquaero 6 XT?

Aquacomputer D5 Pump Mechanics with USB and Aquabus Interface

I bought an Aquaero D5 PWM version directly from Aquacomputer and had issues with it. It wasn't working properly when I got it and I ran it on a loop with a D5 pump/res combo box and I probably caused it to overheat but the product was 100% defective because all it would do is stutter when I put power on it 9 out of 10, I wasn't sure if that was normal at first. I sent it back to them and a month and a half later got blamed for physically damaging a capacitor but I never opened the thing. When I removed the pump from my rig I spilled some liquid on the bottom and I know it got soaked but never turned it on after it was removed. It seems like they were thinking that I was testing it while it was submerged inside my res tube I guess? Not sure but don't want to think about it anymore.

I still want a PWM pump that works with Aquaero 6 XT though so I'm willing to give it another try but this time I want to ask for help from people that's actually actively using it for a while because I'm scared to drop another Benjamin in the trash on products that do not work or sketchy.

Sorry didn't mean to rant but seriously considering the Aquacomputer D5 Pump Mechanics with USB and Aquabus Interface and any info you can provide would be greatly appreciated. Also it says that it's got RPM outputs, it sounds like that acts as a flow meter of sort? If this is the case then I can move my flow meter into another rig.


----------



## Wolfsbora

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Artah*
> 
> Apologies if this is a dupe. Does anyone have any experience with this pump using Aquaero 6 XT?
> 
> Aquacomputer D5 Pump Mechanics with USB and Aquabus Interface
> 
> I bought an Aquaero D5 PWM version directly from Aquacomputer and had issues with it. It wasn't working properly when I got it and I ran it on a loop with a D5 pump/res combo box and I probably caused it to overheat but the product was 100% defective because all it would do is stutter when I put power on it 9 out of 10, I wasn't sure if that was normal at first. I sent it back to them and a month and a half later got blamed for physically damaging a capacitor but I never opened the thing. When I removed the pump from my rig I spilled some liquid on the bottom and I know it got soaked but never turned it on after it was removed. It seems like they were thinking that I was testing it while it was submerged inside my res tube I guess? Not sure but don't want to think about it anymore.
> 
> I still want a PWM pump that works with Aquaero 6 XT though so I'm willing to give it another try but this time I want to ask for help from people that's actually actively using it for a while because I'm scared to drop another Benjamin in the trash on products that do not work or sketchy.
> 
> Sorry didn't mean to rant but seriously considering the Aquacomputer D5 Pump Mechanics with USB and Aquabus Interface and any info you can provide would be greatly appreciated. Also it says that it's got RPM outputs, it sounds like that acts as a flow meter of sort? If this is the case then I can move my flow meter into another rig.


It looks like it was most recently discussed starting at this post: http://www.overclock.net/t/1474470/ocn-aquaero-owners-club/3760#post_23741081


----------



## Artah

Thanks Wolfsbora


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Artah*
> 
> Apologies if this is a dupe. Does anyone have any experience with this pump using Aquaero 6 XT?
> 
> Aquacomputer D5 Pump Mechanics with USB and Aquabus Interface
> 
> I bought an Aquaero D5 PWM version directly from Aquacomputer and had issues with it. It wasn't working properly when I got it and I ran it on a loop with a D5 pump/res combo box and I probably caused it to overheat but the product was 100% defective because all it would do is stutter when I put power on it 9 out of 10, I wasn't sure if that was normal at first. I sent it back to them and a month and a half later got blamed for physically damaging a capacitor but I never opened the thing. When I removed the pump from my rig I spilled some liquid on the bottom and I know it got soaked but never turned it on after it was removed. It seems like they were thinking that I was testing it while it was submerged inside my res tube I guess? Not sure but don't want to think about it anymore.
> 
> I still want a PWM pump that works with Aquaero 6 XT though so I'm willing to give it another try but this time I want to ask for help from people that's actually actively using it for a while because I'm scared to drop another Benjamin in the trash on products that do not work or sketchy.
> 
> Sorry didn't mean to rant but seriously considering the Aquacomputer D5 Pump Mechanics with USB and Aquabus Interface and any info you can provide would be greatly appreciated. Also it says that it's got RPM outputs, it sounds like that acts as a flow meter of sort? If this is the case then I can move my flow meter into another rig.


The d5 usb is not a PWM model. It would allow you to control the speed of the pump via USB or via Aquabus on the aquaero. There is no flow meter on it. It just report the rpm via the alarm section on its configuration page and you can put that rpm on display on the aquasuite. I think you got bad luck with the d5 pwm. I got two of it and are working quite well. The only other option you have is to get any pwm and then do the II Diva mod.


----------



## Artah

So it does not have to be connected to both aquabus and USB at the same time, just either one of them? Does it work like a fan channel when I control it with the aquabus or usb? So the external temperature sensor information is sent to the aquaero 6 xt via usb or aquabus?


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Artah*
> 
> So it does not have to be connected to both aquabus and USB at the same time, just either one of them? Does it work like a fan channel when I control it with the aquabus or usb? So the external temperature sensor information is sent to the aquaero 6 xt via usb or aquabus?


No it does not have to be connected both ways. Usually you connect first via usb to config the pump. The temp sensor within it is unreliable like in most MPS devices, I would not recommend using it. And alas, no, you can't use this pump model to assign to a controller just like a fan header and have automatic control of the pump speed. All you will have is a slider to set manually the pump speed. That is the reason I went with the PWM model.


----------



## gdubc

Got my package today, yay! My second Aquaero 6xt, some black heatsink/backplates, couple shoggy sands and a d5 pwm.


Also, maybe it's been mentioned before but I just noticed that the Aquacomputer webshop has a blue led variant of the xt available.


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Artah*
> 
> So it does not have to be connected to both aquabus and USB at the same time, just either one of them? Does it work like a fan channel when I control it with the aquabus or usb? So the external temperature sensor information is sent to the aquaero 6 xt via usb or aquabus?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> No it does not have to be connected both ways. Usually you connect first via usb to config the pump. The temp sensor within it is unreliable like in most MPS devices, I would not recommend using it. And alas, no, you can't use this pump model to assign to a controller just like a fan header and have automatic control of the pump speed. All you will have is a slider to set manually the pump speed. That is the reason I went with the PWM model.


Sure the pump can be controlled like a fan header. That is the point of it.

While connected only via USB you have a manual slider speed control.


When connected via Aquabus it can be added to a controller just like a fan.


----------



## Artah

Thanks for the info about the aquabus version guys, I just bought another aquacomputer PWM version from aquatuning.us if this one stutters like the other one then I will not have a choice but to do an "Office Space" on it like what they did to the printer.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> Sure the pump can be controlled like a fan header. That is the point of it.
> 
> While connected only via USB you have a manual slider speed control.
> 
> 
> When connected via Aquabus it can be added to a controller just like a fan.


Ha. You live you learn. Thanks mate last time I tried to use it was connected via USB not via Aquabus and I thought would not be possible to assign to a controller like a fan. Another thing learned. +rep.

Edit - @Artah forgive me for giving you incomplete/partially misleading information since that might have weighted on your decision to buy another PWM. In any case is cheaper and I think will do what you want. The chances of getting another dud are really small.


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Ha. You live you learn. Thanks mate last time I tried to use it was connected via USB not via Aquabus and I thought would not be possible to assign to a controller like a fan. Another thing learned. +rep.


Yeah it needs the Aquabus to control it.


----------



## Artah

@Gabrielzm it's all good, I'm happy to be spending less since this pump endeavor is costing me over $200 as it is lol. Only reason I want some type of adjustable is because getting to the bottom of that pump to adjust it is a royal pain and would include me drilling the bottom of my SM8 to make it easier.

You told me what I really needed to hear that some of these aquacomputer modified pumps actually work









My next project is the IT Diva mod for a whopping over $300 endeavor. I'm an electronics engineer major so I think I can solder stuff up pretty well except I have not practiced it in so many years.


----------



## BrettJSr72

Just acquired the Aquero 6XT, may be a bit over my head but a sweet piece of hardware!!! Count me in? Picture proof can be supplied if necessary.


----------



## Ironsmack

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> you can use the absolute difference in the virtual sensor?


That's how its setup. Temp probe outside my case + another temp probe in one of the rads = absolute difference.

So, the fans spins down if the delta T is below its range and ramps up if it's within the temp I set it too.

I just noticed this bug if the comp is off for more than 8+ hours. The outside temp sensor reports its hotter than the rad sensor, so the fans don't spin up because it sees a (-) negative difference.

It could be the sensor that's it faulty and/or something else.


----------



## Artah

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BrettJSr72*
> 
> Just acquired the Aquero 6XT, may be a bit over my head but a sweet piece of hardware!!! Count me in? Picture proof can be supplied if necessary.


Congrats, it's a really nice controller soon as you figure it out.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gdubc*
> 
> Also, maybe it's been mentioned before but I just noticed that the Aquacomputer webshop has a blue led variant of the xt available.


Hmmm, interesting.

aquaero 6 XT blue USB fan controller, graphic LCD, touch control, IR remote control
http://shop.aquacomputer.de/product_info.php?products_id=3267

I really like the blue buttons/keys over the traditional red. Might have to put it on my list of things to get especially once it shows up in stock.
Quote:


> Article is in production
> Estimated lead time 30 days


----------



## 4WDBenio

About time that red was dropped from the AC6 XT display . Red lights should be reserved to Fault Alarms..


----------



## Ganf

I think White would suit the finish of the metal more, personally.


----------



## Mega Man

Best idea. ... rgb


----------



## RpeeKooz

Quick question regarding aquaero 6xt. I have 2 phobya led strips..I plug them in and only one channel works.(I haven't loaded into Windows and aquasuite yet).is there a setting I need to change? Or what can I do to get them both working
Thanks


----------



## Mega Man

more info is needed, pluged them into ???

what settings have you changed ??


----------



## RpeeKooz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> more info is needed, pluged them into ???
> 
> what settings have you changed ??


Plugged them into the aquaero 6.via the 3 pin rgb connection. Haven't changed any settings. I was asking do I need to change any to get the 2 channels working


----------



## Mega Man

First. There are not 2 rgb channels there are 2 pwm (2 pin) channels

Second most rgb strip are opposite the aquaero rgb I am not at home to check which is which and I don't remember off the top of my head ( common cathode vs common anode )


----------



## RpeeKooz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> First. There are not 2 rgb channels there are 2 pwm (2 pin) channels
> 
> Second most rgb strip are opposite the aquaero rgb I am not at home to check which is which and I don't remember off the top of my head ( common cathode vs common anode )


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> First. There are not 2 rgb channels there are 2 pwm (2 pin) channels
> 
> Second most rgb strip are opposite the aquaero rgb I am not at home to check which is which and I don't remember off the top of my head ( common cathode vs common anode )


there is an ir led and Rgb led..I now have them both plugged in the spare fan slots.there both working now..is it safe to leave these on these fan channels?Or is there a better way to run my led strips?


----------



## Mega Man

either that or the pwm ( assuming they are 12v )


----------



## RedGreenGeek

Hi again guys

I hate doing this, but something is wrong when I'm not even given a bad answer.

http://www.overclock.net/t/1474470/ocn-aquaero-owners-club/3750#post_23728385

Extract, how to control fan based on when the psu fan spins up?
Will i need to open up the psu, connect the fan controller to an input on the aq6 with a resistor, then control both psu-fan and intake fan from this?

Hope to hear from you.

RedGreenGeek


----------



## Ironsmack

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RedGreenGeek*
> 
> Hi again guys
> 
> I hate doing this, but something is wrong when I'm not even given a bad answer.
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1474470/ocn-aquaero-owners-club/3750#post_23728385
> 
> Extract, how to control fan based on when the psu fan spins up?
> Will i need to open up the psu, connect the fan controller to an input on the aq6 with a resistor, then control both psu-fan and intake fan from this?
> 
> Hope to hear from you.
> 
> RedGreenGeek


One thing I could think of is, attach a temp probe to the PSU and monitor it that way. Or if you have any of the corsair "I" PSU's, you can probably monitor the temp that way?

Or perhaps monitor the 12V rail (via software) and run it that way?


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RedGreenGeek*
> 
> Hi again guys
> 
> I hate doing this, but something is wrong when I'm not even given a bad answer.
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1474470/ocn-aquaero-owners-club/3750#post_23728385
> 
> Extract, how to control fan based on when the psu fan spins up?
> Will i need to open up the psu, connect the fan controller to an input on the aq6 with a resistor, then control both psu-fan and intake fan from this?
> 
> Hope to hear from you.
> 
> RedGreenGeek


Let's see if I understood what you want. You have a psu fan that is controlled by a thermistor built in the psu and the psu fan profile. You want the aquaero to control the case fan you have following the same behavior/profile of the PSU?


----------



## RedGreenGeek

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Let's see if I understood what you want. You have a psu fan that is controlled by a thermistor built in the psu and the psu fan profile. You want the aquaero to control the case fan you have following the same behavior/profile of the PSU?


that is correct.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ironsmack*
> 
> One thing I could think of is, attach a temp probe to the PSU and monitor it that way. Or if you have any of the corsair "I" PSU's, you can probably monitor the temp that way?
> 
> Or perhaps monitor the 12V rail (via software) and run it that way?


I'll give the 12v a shot, didn't think off that. Temp probe in place does not work well.

Thanks guys


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RedGreenGeek*
> 
> that is correct.
> I'll give the 12v a shot, didn't think off that. Temp probe in place does not work well.
> 
> Thanks guys


If the psu have a thermistor buil in and a software capable of reading it you can perhaps use this to import that temp probe to the aquaero and then use it to make a custom controller for the case fan. That way the psu fan is still under psu control but the case fan will follow it if you adjust the aquaero controller to reproduce PSU behavior. Another alternative is to take the *PSU fan cable* and connect it to the Aquaero along with the fan case on the same fan header. Then use one thermistor of your own to create a fan controller on the aquaero on the way you want. Those are the two possibilities that cross my mind. Hope it helps.









edit in bold


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *RedGreenGeek*
> 
> Hi again guys
> 
> I hate doing this, but something is wrong when I'm not even given a bad answer.
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1474470/ocn-aquaero-owners-club/3750#post_23728385
> 
> Extract, how to control fan based on when the psu fan spins up?
> Will i need to open up the psu, connect the fan controller to an input on the aq6 with a resistor, then control both psu-fan and intake fan from this?
> 
> Hope to hear from you.
> 
> RedGreenGeek
> 
> 
> 
> Let's see if I understood what you want. You have a psu fan that is controlled by a thermistor built in the psu and the psu fan profile. You want the aquaero to control the case fan you have following the same behavior/profile of the PSU?
Click to expand...

That's what I understand him to be asking about . . . .

The best way to do that would be to use a voltage comparator circuit with a little hysteresis that trips a relay when the PSU fan voltage hits a preset amount.

When the comparator output pulls in the relay, it shunts a temp probe on the Aquaero.

That would give a sharp temp transition when the comparator driven relay tripped, and using that sensor to control a fan channel could spin up his case fans.

By adjusting the reference voltage on the comparator, it could be set over a range if the PSU fans spins up gradually based on temp/applied voltage.

If all that sounds like some foreign language to you, . . . then

The low tech way might be to put a temp probe in the PSU and see what temp it starts its fan at, and then use that temp in a controller profile.

Darlene


----------



## RedGreenGeek

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> By adjusting the reference voltage on the comparator, it could be set over a range if the PSU fans spins up gradually based on temp/applied voltage.


How would/could this be done? By using the aq6 fan out voltage through a diode to adjust voltage above 5v?

If it shunts the temp sensor, wouldn't that pretty much give an i/o input for the aq6? arh hysteresis matching a stepping of aq6 fan out.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RedGreenGeek*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> By adjusting the reference voltage on the comparator, it could be set over a range if the PSU fans spins up gradually based on temp/applied voltage.
> 
> 
> 
> How would/could this be done? By using the aq6 fan out voltage through a diode to adjust voltage above 5v?
> 
> If it shunts the temp sensor, wouldn't that pretty much give an i/o input for the aq6? arh hysteresis matching a stepping of aq6 fan out.
Click to expand...

You'd have to be a pretty good electronics tech to do that.

A comparator circuit would be made an op-amp and some resistors.

The reference voltage would come from a voltage divider circuit with a couple resistors and an adjustment pot.

Essentially what it would do is compare the voltage applied to the PSU fan, against a settable reference.

Once the PSU fan's voltage exceeded the reference, it would close a relay.

The relay would shunt (or open) a temp sensor creating an instant rise/fall of that sensors reading.

If you have a fan channel use that sensor to control from, then that channel could spin up a case fan when the psu fan voltage ramped up past the reference voltage.

You could also eliminate the A6 from the scheme and just use the relay from the comparator circuit to power on a case fan.

If you're not actually an electronics nerd, then none of this probably makes a lot of sense, isn't within the options you could realistically employ.

I have a tendency at times to get kind of nerdy, since building unique custom electronic widgets is one of the things my builds are noted for.

Darlene


----------



## electro2u

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> since building unique custom electronic widgets is one of the things my builds are noted for.


And the exhaust pipes (among other things)


----------



## Newtocooling

I'm still having an issue with my 3.2 PWM DDC pump not showing RPM signal on my fan header 3 on the Aquaero 6. I have Fan channel one and two showing the RPM of my fans no problem, but the pump shows just 100% 0 RPM at all times. I have this cable plugged into the Aquaero



And the molex going to the power supply. Any suggestions would be helpful. One more thing if I plug the RPM cable into my MSI Motherboard I can see and control the RPM's no problem. I would rather control through Aquasuite if possible.


----------



## Barefooter

I see the link from Nornam's guide isn't working on the first page. Does anyone know if @Nornam has it posted someplace else now? Hope your health is improving Nornam!


----------



## timepart

Is there any way to have my aquaero to turn off at night when the computer is powered down. Ive looked through many many menus but nothing seems to do this. Removing the usb plug turns it off at power down but my fan speed goes nuts on power up


----------



## Nornam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Barefooter*
> 
> I see the link from Nornam's guide isn't working on the first page. Does anyone know if @Nornam has it posted someplace else now? Hope your health is improving Nornam!


Hiya Barefooter, Because Specailtech has gone down the pan that link on the first page won't work any more I'm afraid







... I do have some of my guides written up on *my own site*, But I need to update my site really badly but haven't been able to get the chance just yet. But it might be worth your while just checking it out as I have most of the AQ 5 guides done on there & most of the AQ 5 guides work for the AQ 6 the same







...

It's only a very basic site I've made I'm afraid as I've never done anything like that before & even though no one seems to sign up to the site there are a few people that do still use it & find it useful. Once I get a bit better I do have plans to give the site a damn good shake up & add some more guides for the Aquaero 6 e.t.c, I just need to get a wee bit more strength back in my broken leg & hip (to get down the stairs to my main Puter







), My health is a little better thanks although it's a case of the hospital chasing the cancer tumours as & where they pop up, Thanks for asking







...

Maybe Darlene could (when she has the time & chance) change that first page link to my guides to my own site link I've put up above







...

Anyway hope the new link above works for you & there is something there that helps you out







...

All the best

Nam...


----------



## Mega Man

I hope you know how much we appreciate what you have done nornam


----------



## hamed599

Hello friends.I have aquaero 5xt .But I do not know the correct way to connect cable aqua computer d5 pump and aquaero to motherboard .Please give me advice
aquabus cable on d5 pump Which is connected to the aquaero


and i have aqua computer flow sensor .How do I connect to aquaero


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hamed599*
> 
> Hello friends.I have aquaero 5xt .But I do not know the correct way to connect cable aqua computer d5 pump and aquaero to motherboard .Please give me advice
> aquabus cable on d5 pump Which is connected to the aquaero
> 
> 
> and i have aqua computer flow sensor .How do I connect to aquaero


If you have a D5 USB and that exact USB flow meter they both connect to the Aquabus high port. You need a 4 pin splitter of some kind for the Aquabus cables
The USB ports on each device connect to USB ports on the motherboard


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nornam*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Barefooter*
> 
> I see the link from Nornam's guide isn't working on the first page. Does anyone know if @Nornam has it posted someplace else now? Hope your health is improving Nornam!
> 
> 
> 
> Hiya Barefooter, Because Specailtech has gone down the pan that link on the first page won't work any more I'm afraid
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ... I do have some of my guides written up on *my own site*, But I need to update my site really badly but haven't been able to get the chance just yet. But it might be worth your while just checking it out as I have most of the AQ 5 guides done on there & most of the AQ 5 guides work for the AQ 6 the same
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ...
> 
> It's only a very basic site I've made I'm afraid as I've never done anything like that before & even though no one seems to sign up to the site there are a few people that do still use it & find it useful. Once I get a bit better I do have plans to give the site a damn good shake up & add some more guides for the Aquaero 6 e.t.c, I just need to get a wee bit more strength back in my broken leg & hip (to get down the stairs to my main Puter
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ), My health is a little better thanks although it's a case of the hospital chasing the cancer tumours as & where they pop up, Thanks for asking
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ...
> 
> *Maybe Darlene could (when she has the time & chance) change that first page link to my guides to my own site link I've put up above
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ...
> *
> Anyway hope the new link above works for you & there is something there that helps you out
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ...
> 
> All the best
> 
> Nam...
Click to expand...

Budda Bing . . .Budda Boom . . . .

Done


----------



## fast_fate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Newtocooling*
> 
> I'm still having an issue with my 3.2 PWM DDC pump not showing RPM signal on my fan header 3 on the Aquaero 6. I have Fan channel one and two showing the RPM of my fans no problem, but the pump shows just 100% 0 RPM at all times. I have this cable plugged into the Aquaero
> 
> 
> 
> And the molex going to the power supply. Any suggestions would be helpful. One more thing if I plug the RPM cable into my MSI Motherboard I can see and control the RPM's no problem. I would rather control through Aquasuite if possible.


Have you tried connecting the pump to fan channel 4 (or 1 & 2)
It is possible that speed signal input channel 3 is not working.
Do you speed signal if you plug a fan into Channel 3 - PWM or voltage ?

I have an Aquaero 5 which refuses to read rpm from a PWM DDC also.
Luckily for me I have nothing else connected to Fan channel 3.....
so I have PWM control of the pump via channel 4 - single green wire(the only PWM channel an Aq5)
and rpm signal reporting on Fan Channel 3 - single Blue wire.


----------



## Nornam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> I hope you know how much we appreciate what you have done nornam


Thanks Mega Man







I surely do realize that some people do really appreciate the work I've put into the guides e.t.c & am well chuffed that they have helped so many







.
Before Specialtech went down there had been well over 50,000 views to the Aquaero guides on there & was very disappointed when the site went down, which is why I intend to carry on doing the guides from my own site for as long as I can







& to Add to them quite considerably hopefully in the not too distant future.

I have recently bought 2 x AQ 6's, 5 x Power Adjust's, 2 x Fabwerk RGB units & 8 x Various strips of their RGB lights along with 2 x D5 Pumps, 1 x USB/Aquabus & 1 x their new PWM pumps, So I really need to get better soonish to get it all fitted into the 2 builds it'll all be going into







... (I'm still waiting for the Fabwerk RGB units & lights to come back in stock, but the orders are in for them)..

Anyway.... Thanks again Mega Man for your post I really appreciate it







.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Budda Bing . . .Budda Boom . . . .
> 
> Done


Many thanks Darlene, Your a real trooper









All the best

Nam...


----------



## Newtocooling

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fast_fate*
> 
> Have you tried connecting the pump to fan channel 4 (or 1 & 2)
> It is possible that speed signal input channel 3 is not working.
> Do you speed signal if you plug a fan into Channel 3 - PWM or voltage ?
> 
> I have an Aquaero 5 which refuses to read rpm from a PWM DDC also.
> Luckily for me I have nothing else connected to Fan channel 3.....
> so I have PWM control of the pump via channel 4 - single green wire(the only PWM channel an Aq5)
> and rpm signal reporting on Fan Channel 3 - single Blue wire.


Thanks I will give the other channels a try when I get home today. Researching the problem further last night I found this conversation on another forum with a link to this cable.

http://www.dazmode.com/_forum/showthread.php?1103-Aquaero-6-Setup

https://www.dazmode.com/store/product/connection_cable_for_laing_ddc_pumps_-_poweradjust_2_aquaero_5/

Maybe I need this cable to make it work?


----------



## fast_fate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Newtocooling*
> 
> Thanks I will give the other channels a try when I get home today. Researching the problem further last night I found this conversation on another forum with a link to this cable.
> 
> http://www.dazmode.com/_forum/showthread.php?1103-Aquaero-6-Setup
> 
> https://www.dazmode.com/store/product/connection_cable_for_laing_ddc_pumps_-_poweradjust_2_aquaero_5/
> 
> Maybe I need this cable to make it work?


No....
That cable would be for a NON-PWM pump and does not relate to your issue at all.
No need for any extra cables.


----------



## Newtocooling

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fast_fate*
> 
> No....
> That cable would be for a NON-PWM pump and does not relate to your issue at all.
> No need for any extra cables.


Thanks Fast Fate you just saved me some cash!







I will just wait till I get home and try the other fan channels. Do I need to change the fan header setting through Aquasuite to show the pump RPM?


----------



## fast_fate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Newtocooling*
> 
> Thanks Fast Fate you just saved me some cash!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I will just wait till I get home and try the other fan channels. Do I need to change the fan header setting through Aquasuite to show the pump RPM?


Shouldn't need to change anyth9ing for rpm readout.
BUT
you would have to change the control type to PWM.
found under the Advanced Settings section of the Fans page


----------



## Newtocooling

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fast_fate*
> 
> Shouldn't need to change anyth9ing for rpm readout.
> BUT
> you would have to change the control type to PWM.
> found under the Advanced Settings section of the Fans page


Great I will work on this tonight!


----------



## timepart

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *timepart*
> 
> Is there any way to have my aquaero to turn off at night when the computer is powered down. Ive looked through many many menus but nothing seems to do this. Removing the usb plug turns it off at power down but my fan speed goes nuts on power up


Can someone help me on this


----------



## RedGreenGeek

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *timepart*
> 
> Can someone help me on this


I know this is pretty weird to ask, but doesn't it turn of with the PSU, when connected with molex?


----------



## timepart

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RedGreenGeek*
> 
> I know this is pretty weird to ask, but doesn't it turn of with the PSU, when connected with molex?


Thats the issue I am having haha. I thought it would just shut off with the power shutdown on the psu molex. I believe it stays on because of the usb connection to the mobo having power even at shut down. I know that if I disconnect the usb header from the aquaero it will shut off at shut down. When I do this though, and re boot, the fan speed is all over the place and doesn't have the same profile as before.


----------



## Newtocooling

If you turn off your PSU on the back switch that will cut the power to your Aquaero, if it's connected by the USB cable.If you truly want no power to the Aquaero that's an easier way than disconnecting the USB cable.


----------



## timepart

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Newtocooling*
> 
> If you turn off your PSU on the back switch that will cut the power to your Aquaero, if it's connected by the USB cable.If you truly want no power to the Aquaero that's an easier way than disconnecting the USB cable.


Does everyone just leave their device powered on always then? There has to be an easier way than flicking my power switch every time I shut down. When the back switch is toggled it goes into a long boot and takes 2x as much time. There has to be an easy and simple way to just turn it off at shut down. I guess the only thing I am worried about is replacing the LCD screen later in in its life from being constantly on.


----------



## Anateus

Okay, I decieded to buy the Aquaero controller, but I have a problem. Which should I get?
5 LT is 1/3 price of 6.
And I've seen people telling others that 5 LT has problem with adjusting fans speed based on temps, and thats what I need for my watercooled rig.
Advice?


----------



## Newtocooling

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *timepart*
> 
> Does everyone just leave their device powered on always then? There has to be an easier way than flicking my power switch every time I shut down. When the back switch is toggled it goes into a long boot and takes 2x as much time. There has to be an easy and simple way to just turn it off at shut down. I guess the only thing I am worried about is replacing the LCD screen later in in its life from being constantly on.


Unfortunately that's the only way I'm able to power it and my Asus Fomula motherboard down completely. If I just put the pc in shutdown mode and leave the PSU power on the lights on motherboard and Aquaero screen remain dimly lit.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *timepart*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Newtocooling*
> 
> If you turn off your PSU on the back switch that will cut the power to your Aquaero, if it's connected by the USB cable.If you truly want no power to the Aquaero that's an easier way than disconnecting the USB cable.
> 
> 
> 
> Does everyone just leave their device powered on always then? There has to be an easier way than flicking my power switch every time I shut down. When the back switch is toggled it goes into a long boot and takes 2x as much time. There has to be an easy and simple way to just turn it off at shut down. I guess the only thing I am worried about is replacing the LCD screen later in in its life from being constantly on.
Click to expand...

Yes. That is how and why. You can connect it to a usb port without standby usb power if your mobo has usb workout standby power.

However without it your fans will spin up to max may be able to use the battery clock accessory. ... Idr the name though.

I bet it bothers 1% of people. I like the fact it stays on
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anateus*
> 
> Okay, I decieded to buy the Aquaero controller, but I have a problem. Which should I get?
> 5 LT is 1/3 price of 6.
> And I've seen people telling others that 5 LT has problem with adjusting fans speed based on temps, and thats what I need for my watercooled rig.
> Advice?


It does not have that issue but you may need some accessories ( either heatsink or water block ) to keep it cool also to know aq5xx ( where xx is model lt-pro-xt ) only has 1 pwm and old vrms which do get hot


----------



## Ganf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anateus*
> 
> Okay, I decieded to buy the Aquaero controller, but I have a problem. Which should I get?
> 5 LT is 1/3 price of 6.
> And I've seen people telling others that 5 LT has problem with adjusting fans speed based on temps, and thats what I need for my watercooled rig.
> Advice?


Aquaero 6 pro, the 6** unit sans the remote and squinty LED's in the face is the gentleman's Aquaero of choice.

Opinion given. No factual statements here.


----------



## Ganf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *timepart*
> 
> Does everyone just leave their device powered on always then? There has to be an easier way than flicking my power switch every time I shut down. When the back switch is toggled it goes into a long boot and takes 2x as much time. There has to be an easy and simple way to just turn it off at shut down. I guess the only thing I am worried about is replacing the LCD screen later in in its life from being constantly on.


Scroll back a few pages in the thread. I believe the rep Shoggy said something about disconnecting a red wire on the USB connector if you really want it to shut down whenever your PC shuts down.

But is it 100% necessary? The simple LED screens like those on the Aquaero typically have lifespans of 50,000+ hours. If Aquacomputer doesn't have a new model out in 6 years to tempt you into a replacement then that'd be an issue.









If I were at home I'd grab the model number off of the screen and google it, there should be a list of specs on the internet. Any volunteers?


----------



## Faster_is_better

Can Aquasuite control additional PWM channels via HWinfo sensors?

So even a lowly Aquero 5 LT could potentially control the motherboard's CPU PWM, and possibly any GPU PWM channels, in addition to the single PWM channel on the board itself.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Faster_is_better*
> 
> Can Aquasuite control additional PWM channels via HWinfo sensors?
> 
> So even a lowly Aquero 5 LT could potentially control the motherboard's CPU PWM, and possibly any GPU PWM channels, in addition to the single PWM channel on the board itself.


No. You can only control the PWM devices connected to the Aquaero. Other devices can report to the aquaero/aquasuite through software (temp, rpm, whatever).


----------



## hamed599

this part of aquaero What be connected.flow


----------



## slippyturtle

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *timepart*
> 
> Does everyone just leave their device powered on always then? There has to be an easier way than flicking my power switch every time I shut down. When the back switch is toggled it goes into a long boot and takes 2x as much time. There has to be an easy and simple way to just turn it off at shut down. I guess the only thing I am worried about is replacing the LCD screen later in in its life from being constantly on.


Check your BIOS settings under Advanced / APM and set it to enabled for S5. That should effectively kill power to your Aquaero (and everything else) while your rig is powered down, without having to toggle your PSU.


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *timepart*
> 
> Does everyone just leave their device powered on always then? There has to be an easier way than flicking my power switch every time I shut down. When the back switch is toggled it goes into a long boot and takes 2x as much time. There has to be an easy and simple way to just turn it off at shut down. I guess the only thing I am worried about is replacing the LCD screen later in in its life from being constantly on.


Let it stay on why does it matter


----------



## Newtocooling

Thanks Fast_Fate I was able to get my pump RPM' s to finally show on fan channel 2, it seems channel three and four will not show the RPM from my pump cable for some reason. Fans work fine on channel 3 and 4 so It all works perfect now!


----------



## Barefooter

Darlene please add me to the club. I've been a long time subscriber to this thread, and now finally actually have one









Here's a picture of my "Aquaero Starter Pack" lol



Now I have to figure out how to use it. Hopefully I won't have to pester everyone here too much.


----------



## Ganf

It's a lot simpler than I thought it would be, personally. They seem like complicated beasts when you read all of the questions about them but unless you're trying to do something complicated in the first place it's all pretty straightforward.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Barefooter*
> 
> Darlene please add me to the club. I've been a long time subscriber to this thread, and now finally actually have one
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's a picture of my "Aquaero Starter Pack" lol
> 
> 
> 
> Now I have to figure out how to use it. Hopefully I won't have to pester everyone here too much.


Done, along with timepart and hamed599 . . .

Anyone I missed?

Darlene


----------



## timepart

One final issue for you guys for a while. I have my Aquero 5 pro, has been working for the last two weeks now. I put it into my new rig after building with an added waterblock. The device has a "lit" screen and it controls fans perfectly. The screen does not display any pages like it did before. I went into user pannel and I have several displays to rotate, but nothing shows on the screen. Is there some reset on the screen of is the lcd toast?? The screen doesn't display any words, but just makes varying shades of grey when I push over on the arrows. I am guessing something is haywire with the lcd portion, but it worked a little bit ago?


----------



## Ganf

There are several things that could cause that honestly. You haven't noticed any physical defects or damage in the screen? Have you tried clearing the memory to give it a full reset?

Where's @Shoggy when you need him.


----------



## timepart

I got it fixed thanks!!!!


----------



## Anateus

Okay, need some final confirmation. Is it really worth to shell more money on Aquaero 6 instead of 5 LT + heatsink? I will be connecting only *6*PWM (4pin) fans through 5x Y splitters. Later on I will upgrade my loop, so I will be looking at *~15 fans*, maybe *20* (no more than 25). Probably Gentle Typhoon AP-15's. Will it handle them? I could buy the waterblock for it when adding more fans.


----------



## Panther Al

Thats something I am wondering as well. The slowest build in the history of ever is slated to have 17 Rad Fans, 1 Exhaust fan, 2 D5 pumps, and I have been looking at a single LED strip along the upper front edge of the S8.

Now, I believe I have room to put the Aquaero in the topmost bay up agianst where the rad is thanks to the help of you all, now just wondering about the wiring plan - or just tucking a AQ5LT behind the cover. Gonna put the block on it as well if there is room, well, for just because.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anateus*
> 
> Okay, need some final confirmation. Is it really worth to shell more money on Aquaero 6 instead of 5 LT + heatsink? I will be connecting only *6*PWM (4pin) fans through 5x Y splitters. Later on I will upgrade my loop, so I will be looking at *~15 fans*, maybe *20* (no more than 25). Probably Gentle Typhoon AP-15's. Will it handle them? I could buy the waterblock for it when adding more fans.


GTs are to some extent low Amperage fans so yeah it will handle but can get very hot. If is too hot it will loose the control until it cools itself. So, a waterblock might be a good idea or at the very least a heatsink there. With 15 gts you will connect them to 3 channels (5 per channel) and the last one will be pwm allowing you 21 fans on the way you are going.


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *timepart*
> 
> I got it fixed thanks!!!!


How????


----------



## timepart

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> GTs are to some extent low Amperage fans so yeah it will handle but can get very hot. If is too hot it will loose the control until it cools itself. So, a waterblock might be a good idea or at the very least a heatsink there. With 15 gts you will connect them to 3 channels (5 per channel) and the last one will be pwm allowing you 21 fans on the way you are going.


Curious what would be considered a hot temp on the voltage portion of the board. I have the water block but hitting 43 C or so on mine.


----------



## electro2u

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *timepart*
> 
> Curious what would be considered a hot temp on the voltage portion of the board. I have the water block but hitting 43 C or so on mine.


Think twice that. I want to say 95c is max.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *timepart*
> 
> Curious what would be considered a hot temp on the voltage portion of the board. I have the water block but hitting 43 C or so on mine.


I have seen temps around 60 to 70 in the aq5 lt just with heatsink on it and a few fans. Don't known the temp it starting throttling but should be something around eletro above give you. That would be too hot....


----------



## timepart

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> How????


I carefully took the face plate off. It was really difficult since I had to do this with a 360 thick rad butting up against it and the waterblock attached. I just took the right hand side off and re seated the pins that correlate to the lcd. It fixed it and all my roommates could hear me yelling in happiness haha


----------



## smicha

Question: I bought Aquaero 6XT and 2xD5 PWM (Aquacomputer) pumps. Shall I remove 4 pin connectors from PWM cables of D5s, join them together and apply a 2pin connector and connect them to a single PWM port in 6XT? What is the most efficient way to controll 2xD5 via PWM (without aquabus)?


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *smicha*
> 
> Question: I bought Aquaero 6XT and 2xD5 PWM (Aquacomputer) pumps. Shall I remove 4 pin connectors from PWM cables of D5s, join them together and apply a 2pin connector and connect them to a single PWM port in 6XT? What is the most efficient way to controll 2xD5 via PWM (without aquabus)?


just get an y splitter cable for pwm and be done. Both pumps go in serial in the same loop correct?


----------



## Artah

You should be able to use a 4 pin fan splitter that have only one rpm connector to one of the D5 pumps. The D5s can be driven by a single PWM signal from a controller channel.


----------



## smicha

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> just get an y splitter cable for pwm and be done. Both pumps go in serial in the same loop correct?


Yes - one loop in serial. But I have to use 2 pin PWM XT6 port - is there any y splitter for this, 2pin->2x4pin? Or shall I make a custom one?


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *smicha*
> 
> Question: I bought Aquaero 6XT and 2xD5 PWM (Aquacomputer) pumps. Shall I remove 4 pin connectors from PWM cables of D5s, join them together and apply a 2pin connector and connect them to a single PWM port in 6XT? What is the most efficient way to controll 2xD5 via PWM (without aquabus)?


DO NOT DO THIS

you will fry the pwm d5s, if not just the pwm, possibly all of it

the 2 pin pwm is 12v pwm on the d5s is 5v,
also the 2 pin pwm supply 12v the pwm circuit on the d5s need to be grounded

you must control this from a FAN HEADER


----------



## Artah

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *smicha*
> 
> Yes - one loop in serial. But I have to use 2 pin PWM XT6 port - is there any y splitter for this, 2pin->2x4pin? Or shall I make a custom one?


You don't have a free fan channel for it?


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *smicha*
> 
> Yes - one loop in serial. But I have to use 2 pin PWM XT6 port - is there any y splitter for this, 2pin->2x4pin? Or shall I make a custom one?


Just this mate or something similar. One fan terminal have 4 pins and another have only 3 so only one pump will report rpm:

http://www.noctua.at/pdf/infosheets/noctua_na_syc1_datasheet_en.pdf


----------



## smicha

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> DO NOT DO THIS
> 
> you will fry the pwm d5s, if not just the pwm, possibly all of it
> 
> the 2 pin pwm is 12v pwm on the d5s is 5v,
> also the 2 pin pwm supply 12v the pwm circuit on the d5s need to be grounded
> 
> you must control this from a FAN HEADER


Thank you Mega Man - this is extremely important information and shall be put in the manual!

Another question: may I connect (join) two PWM cables from 2xD5 and connect them to a single fan header ?

BTW: currently I have set d5 to something around 1600RPMs and the flow is high enough to create cyclone in a reservoir. Is there any topic that covers impact of D5 speed on temps. At this low speed I have 26C on gpus at idle and 40C while rendering, 45C at OC.


----------



## smicha

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Artah*
> 
> You don't have a free fan channel for it?


Nope. But will have to


----------



## smicha

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Just this mate or something similar. One fan terminal have 4 pins and another have only 3 so only one pump will report rpm:
> 
> http://www.noctua.at/pdf/infosheets/noctua_na_syc1_datasheet_en.pdf


Thank you for the link!


----------



## Anateus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> GTs are to some extent low Amperage fans so yeah it will handle but can get very hot. If is too hot it will loose the control until it cools itself. So, a waterblock might be a good idea or at the very least a heatsink there. With 15 gts you will connect them to 3 channels (5 per channel) and the last one will be pwm allowing you 21 fans on the way you are going.


Will it be okay if I use something like Swiftech 6 way PWM splitter which also can be connected to a MOLEX? Will it make Aquaero send only the PWM signal?

Lets say I use this: http://www.amazon.co.uk/Akasa-AK-CBFA03-45-Flexa-Splitter-Cable/dp/B005EKU5CO
Will it lower the Aquaero 5 temps?


----------



## Ganf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anateus*
> 
> Will it be okay if I use something like Swiftech 6 way PWM splitter which also can be connected to a MOLEX? Will it make Aquaero send only the PWM signal?
> 
> Lets say I use this: http://www.amazon.co.uk/Akasa-AK-CBFA03-45-Flexa-Splitter-Cable/dp/B005EKU5CO
> Will it lower the Aquaero 5 temps?


Yep, just make 100% sure you're using PWM fans. As a matter of fact take a look at the *phobya splitters*. They're a little harder to tuck in the case since they're pretty tall but they come with a cable that splits, one split plugging into a 4 pin molex and the other being a pure PWM signal.


----------



## Anateus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ganf*
> 
> Yep, just make 100% sure you're using PWM fans. As a matter of fact take a look at the *phobya splitters*. They're a little harder to tuck in the case since they're pretty tall but they come with a cable that splits, one split plugging into a 4 pin molex and the other being a pure PWM signal.


Thats the only one I can find in my country. So that means there will be no voltage going through Aquaero, only PWM signal? Therefore it will stay cool? I want to run my fans at 30-50%, and thats where AQ5 gets really hot from what I've seen. And will it be problematic to run PWM signal through the splitters for so many (lets say, 20) fans?


----------



## Ganf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anateus*
> 
> Thats the only one I can find in my country. So that means there will be no voltage going through Aquaero, only PWM signal? Therefore it will stay cool? I want to run my fans at 30-50%, and thats where AQ5 gets really hot from what I've seen. And will it be problematic to run PWM signal through the splitters for so many (lets say, 20) fans?


Yep, no voltage going through the aquaero. I picked up the Phobya's and had a problem because I WASN'T pulling voltage through the aquaero with the 4 pin plugged in. My fans are power controlled, I picked up a couple 3 pin female to females to solve the problem.

Just double checked. You were the person that said you were going to use GT ap-15's. They are not PWM controlled, you will need to pull the power from the Aquaero.


----------



## Anateus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ganf*
> 
> Yep, no voltage going through the aquaero. I picked up the Phobya's and had a problem because I WASN'T pulling voltage through the aquaero with the 4 pin plugged in. My fans are power controlled, I picked up a couple 3 pin female to females to solve the problem.
> 
> Just double checked. You were the person that said you were going to use GT ap-15's. They are not PWM controlled, you will need to pull the power from the Aquaero.


Oh wait, I thought they were PWM controllable :[ This changes alot.
So how should I deal with non PWM fans? I guess I can just plug ~5 fans per channel (total of 4 channels, including PWM one) and put a waterblock on it?


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anateus*
> 
> Oh wait, I thought they were PWM controllable :[ This changes alot.
> So how should I deal with non PWM fans? I guess I can just plug ~5 fans per channel (total of 4 channels, including PWM one) and put a waterblock on it?


certainly not. GTs are volt controlled. If you want similar PWM fans use the EK vardars. But if you want PWM fans are you sure the AQ 5 lt is the best choice? Only one PWM channel there.


----------



## Anateus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> certainly not. GTs are volt controlled. If you want similar PWM fans use the EK vardars. But if you want PWM fans are you sure the AQ 5 lt is the best choice? Only one PWM channel there.


Its not that I want PWM fans, I want GT-15's... And I thought they were PWM controlled (guess it would be too good).
I wont be using more than 25 of them in the future. And what are PA2 modules for?


----------



## Wolfsbora

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anateus*
> 
> Its not that I want PWM fans, I want GT-15's... And I thought they were PWM controlled (guess it would be too good).
> I wont be using more than 25 of them in the future. And what are PA2 modules for?


Vardars have nearly the same performance as GTs, just slightly less consistent.


----------



## Anateus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wolfsbora*
> 
> Vardars have nearly the same performance as GTs, just slightly less consistent.


They are way too loud for my taste. Not so close to GTs if you ask me.


----------



## Faster_is_better

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anateus*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> certainly not. GTs are volt controlled. If you want similar PWM fans use the EK vardars. But if you want PWM fans are you sure the AQ 5 lt is the best choice? Only one PWM channel there.
> 
> 
> 
> Its not that I want PWM fans, I want GT-15's... And I thought they were PWM controlled (guess it would be too good).
> I wont be using more than 25 of them in the future. And what are PA2 modules for?
Click to expand...

Voltage controlled fans have a lot more options as far as fan controllers go, PWM not so much. Any Aquaero model has good support for voltage controlled fans. I think the PA modules are used for expanding power output and adding more fans. I'll let someone else expand/correct that though if needed.

Here is the Aquaero 5/6 manual if you want to look through its capabilities.


----------



## Ganf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Faster_is_better*
> 
> Voltage controlled fans have a lot more options as far as fan controllers go, PWM not so much. Any Aquaero model has good support for voltage controlled fans. I think the PA modules are used for expanding power output and adding more fans. I'll let someone else expand/correct that though if needed.
> 
> Here is the Aquaero 5/6 manual if you want to look through its capabilities.


He gets that, he's just worried about controlling that many fans on the 5LT because of the heat on the VRM's. He was looking for ways to keep it cool without the heatsink, waterblock, and all of the fun that involves.


----------



## Anateus

What I need is something between AQ 5LT and AQ 6.
~20GT AP-15s or ~20 vardars will be connected to it, I dont think that watercooling it will be possible (my OCD will tingle alot). I was hoping that a heatsink will be enough to keep it cool with so many low RPM fans.

@Edit:
Just noticed EK Vardar F3-120 are PWM controllable!
So I guess I'll just grab those PWM splitters and power the fans straight from PSU. This way I will avoid the heat issue with 5 LT. Is that a good idea?


----------



## Faster_is_better

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ganf*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Faster_is_better*
> 
> Voltage controlled fans have a lot more options as far as fan controllers go, PWM not so much. Any Aquaero model has good support for voltage controlled fans. I think the PA modules are used for expanding power output and adding more fans. I'll let someone else expand/correct that though if needed.
> 
> Here is the Aquaero 5/6 manual if you want to look through its capabilities.
> 
> 
> 
> He gets that, he's just worried about controlling that many fans on the 5LT because of the heat on the VRM's. He was looking for ways to keep it cool without the heatsink, waterblock, and all of the fun that involves.
Click to expand...

So a heatsink is pretty much required on the 5 models, or just LT?

Also, those 2, 2 pin PWM channels (on the 5LT), are those for LED's or what? Looks like the frequency is to low to be used for controlling PWM fans.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anateus*
> 
> What I need is something between AQ 5LT and AQ 6.
> ~20GT AP-15s or ~20 vardars will be connected to it, I dont think that watercooling it will be possible (my OCD will tingle alot). I was hoping that a heatsink will be enough to keep it cool with so many low RPM fans.
> 
> @Edit:
> Just noticed EK Vardar F3-120 are PWM controllable!
> So I guess I'll just grab those PWM splitters and power the fans straight from PSU. This way I will avoid the heat issue with 5 LT. Is that a good idea?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Faster_is_better*
> 
> So a heatsink is pretty much required on the 5 models, or just LT?
> 
> Also, those 2, 2 pin PWM channels (on the 5LT), are those for LED's or what? Looks like the frequency is to low to be used for controlling PWM fans.


I would say if you want to run lot's of fans on the 5 the heatsink is a must and depending the waterblock might be needed. Aq 6 does not suffer from this heat problem and the simple heatsink is enough. Go for GTs then mate and bit the bullet and pay more for the AQ6. Is around 125 euros right now, not a bad deal if you ask me.

edit - ops, sorry you are in Europe so you pay VAT on top of that...


----------



## Anateus

Yeah, Aq6 is 2,6 times the price of Aq 5. Plus, GT-15's are ~10$ more expensive than same RPM level Vardars here. Unless I buy used, theres no way I can get AQ6 and GTs.


----------



## Ganf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anateus*
> 
> Yeah, Aq6 is 2,6 times the price of Aq 5. Plus, GT-15's are ~10$ more expensive than same RPM level Vardars here. Unless I buy used, theres no way I can get AQ6 and GTs.


Where are you getting the GT's from and for how much?


----------



## Anateus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ganf*
> 
> Where are you getting the GT's from and for how much?


Amazon UK, 20GBP. No other place here that I could get them AFAIK. Unless someone on OCN from EU resells them


----------



## Ganf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anateus*
> 
> Amazon UK, 20GBP. No other place here that I could get them AFAIK. Unless someone on OCN from EU resells them


http://www.coolerguys.com/sgt120.html

Check and see what that would cost you after shipping. And add an extra fan or two just in case one or two get damaged during shipping. The OEM packaging they're shipped in isn't the best for overseas travel.

Edit: Autocorrect is making me and the rest of the internet look illiterate.


----------



## Anateus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ganf*
> 
> http://www.coolerguys.com/sgt120.html
> 
> Check and see what that would cost you after shipping. And add an extra fan or two just in case one or two get damaged during shipping. The OEM packaging they're shipped in isn't the best for overseas travel.
> 
> Edit: Autocorrect is making me and the rest of the internet look illiterate.


Not really into buying those from USA. Shipping cost is at least ~70 USD and then I have to pay all the taxes


----------



## Ganf

Fascinating discovery today. Plugging a TEC into one of the fan headers on an Aquaero immediately trips the fuse, regardless of whether you set the software to stop it at 95% or limit the digital fuse to 1 amp. Any suggestions on how to get them to play nice?

@Anateus Still poking around to see if I can find anything cheaper available to you. There are actually quite a few vendors that sell GT's, just not at reasonable prices.


----------



## Anateus

I might try to pull one trick. My moms fiance has a brother in the USA, and he's a pilot.. Whos often flying to Europe. Wasnt dazmode selling GTs for a quite cheap price?


----------



## Ganf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anateus*
> 
> I might try to pull one trick. My moms fiance has a brother in the USA, and he's a pilot.. Whos often flying to Europe. Wasnt dazmode selling GTs for a quite cheap price?


They've sold their lot and they're getting a new shipment in May, with black blades, of the 2150rpm model. Dazmode is Canada though, so you may be able to do very well on the exchange rate. It might be worth waiting if you've got some get-me-by fans to start putting your rig together now while you wait for a month.

Edit: Oh, and I found out what was happening with the TEC. Being an open circuit it would immediately bounce above 100% load when I plugged it in and trip the safety. Have to set the maximum at 2.25 amps to prevent this.


----------



## Anateus

Prices on his site are CAD, right? If yes, then he has great price for those GTs...


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anateus*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ganf*
> 
> http://www.coolerguys.com/sgt120.html
> 
> Check and see what that would cost you after shipping. And add an extra fan or two just in case one or two get damaged during shipping. The OEM packaging they're shipped in isn't the best for overseas travel.
> 
> Edit: Autocorrect is making me and the rest of the internet look illiterate.
> 
> 
> 
> Not really into buying those from USA. Shipping cost is at least ~70 USD and then I have to pay all the taxes
Click to expand...

Coolerguys also sells on Amazon UK.

http://www.amazon.co.uk/Scythe-Case-Gentle-Typhoon-D1225C12B5AP-15/dp/B001Q6RUVO/

Not sure if they would be able to ship to you and even if so if that might be a cheaper option for you, but just thought it might be worth mentioning.


----------



## Ironsmack

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *timepart*
> 
> Curious what would be considered a hot temp on the voltage portion of the board. I have the water block but hitting 43 C or so on mine.


Oh that's fine. Mine runs around that temp too. And I'm running (7) and (8) GT fans on each channel.


----------



## DewMan

Aquaero 6 Pro has been ordered. I will humbley request club membership when I receive it and get pix.









Quick Questions please?

1) Does the CaseLabs Flex-Bay mount still need the "Short Nonconforming" brackets to mount these?

2) Is there any use installing the Aquaero Suite software before you get the Aquaero? Can you at least poke around in it without any hardware hooked up? I was hoping to get a head start on it's learning curve.

Even after 20 years in I.T. I never knew how complicated water cooling could be.









But then I always liked a challenge.


----------



## Shoggy

The mounting brackets should be no problem anymore since several months now and you can install the software before you get the hardware but it will be pretty useless since you will see no menus beside the regular aquasuite settings.


----------



## DewMan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> The mounting brackets should be no problem anymore since several months now and you can install the software before you get the hardware but it will be pretty useless since you will see no menus beside the regular aquasuite settings.


Thanks for the info Shoggy. Much appreciated.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DewMan*
> 
> Aquaero 6 Pro has been ordered. I will humbley request club membership when I receive it and get pix.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quick Questions please?
> 
> *1) Does the CaseLabs Flex-Bay mount still need the "Short Nonconforming" brackets to mount these?
> 
> *2) Is there any use installing the Aquaero Suite software before you get the Aquaero? Can you at least poke around in it without any hardware hooked up? I was hoping to get a head start on it's learning curve.
> 
> Even after 20 years in I.T. I never knew how complicated water cooling could be.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But then I always liked a challenge.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> *The mounting brackets should be no problem anymore since several months now* and you can install the software before you get the hardware but it will be pretty useless since you will see no menus beside the regular aquasuite settings.


For what it's worth . . . .

I've installed 3 Aquaeros in the last month to 6 weeks, and they do indeed need the non-conforming mounts, or a damn lot of tweaking and elbow grease plus some modding of the Aquaero side rails to get them to fit with standard brackets.

My guess is that it very much still depends on where you buy them from, as to whether they have the new stock with improved side rails or not. . . . All mine came from PPCs.

I'd certainly order the brackets just in case, . . They just aren't that expensive.

Darlene


----------



## Ganf

PPC's did have about 50+ in stock only a month and a half ago. I'd be surprised if they sell their lot orders that quickly. They've probably been working their way to the bottom of that crate since before Christmas.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ganf*
> 
> PPC's did have about 50+ in stock only a month and a half ago. I'd be surprised if they sell their lot orders that quickly. They've probably been working their way to the bottom of that crate since before Christmas.


I recall them being out of stock at least once for a while after new years, so what they have now is certainly more recent than Christmas, lol . .

But since it seems that the Aqua tuning outlets get the new stuff first, that's it's still probably a crap shoot if these are the new improved side rail models or not.

I'd just cover my azz and order the non-conforming mounts for ~$10 to be on the safe side.

D.


----------



## DewMan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> But since it seems that the Aqua tuning outlets get the new stuff first, that's it's still probably a crap shoot if these are the new improved side rail models or not.
> 
> D.


Good thing I ordered mine from aquatuning.us then. I'll chance not getting the unconforming mount yet. This isn't any kind of rush build.

Thanks for the heads up Darlene.


----------



## Ganf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DewMan*
> 
> Good thing I ordered mine from aquatuning.us then. I'll chance not getting the unconforming mount yet. This isn't any kind of rush build.
> 
> Thanks for the heads up Darlene.


Now the problem with that is that if you do have to buy the mount in the future, you're going to pay $10 for the mount and $12 for the shipping, no matter where you get it from.


----------



## DewMan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ganf*
> 
> Now the problem with that is that if you do have to buy the mount in the future, you're going to pay $10 for the mount and $12 for the shipping, no matter where you get it from.


Yep, that's why I'm holding off. I figure once I receive my case I'll figure out some other options I'll need also so I'll group them together and hopefully save a couple $$ on shipping anyway... There's always another something needed from CaseLabs on a TX10-D build....


----------



## timepart

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ironsmack*
> 
> Oh that's fine. Mine runs around that temp too. And I'm running (7) and (8) GT fans on each channel.


I guess is it even worth it for me to have the water block on it. I have someone that wants to buy it anyhow. I only have at most 5 Corsair SP120 Performance fans on each channel and nothing on PWM. I am also going to run 2 Power Adjusts for the other internal fans (exit / intake) I have the power adjusts from a lot deal.


----------



## Mega Man

Sorry idr which you have
If a aq6xx no need.

If aq5xx yes.

(Xx= mn)


----------



## timepart

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> Sorry idr which you have
> If a aq6xx no need.
> 
> If aq5xx yes.
> 
> (Xx= mn)


Aquaero 5 pro. I guess it wont hurt anything to have it and have the possibility of cooling for later fans. Makes it a real pain to wire up when I cant pull the device out really well.


----------



## Ironsmack

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *timepart*
> 
> I guess is it even worth it for me to have the water block on it. I have someone that wants to buy it anyhow. I only have at most 5 Corsair SP120 Performance fans on each channel and nothing on PWM. I am also going to run 2 Power Adjusts for the other internal fans (exit / intake) I have the power adjusts from a lot deal.


Those PA are pretty handy. I bought 2 and realize, i only need one. But i think, im just going to keep both of them. Never know when i need them later on.


----------



## gdubc

So, some more input on the mounting brackets: I just compared my 2 aquaero xts, 1 that I just received direct from the Aquacomputer webshop before the last stock ran out, and 1 that is from when they were first released, and there is no difference whatsoever. My guess is enough people now know to just get the other brackets therefore Shoggy doesn't hear about it any more.


----------



## Dagamus NM

Looking for help with the combo rad res pump airplex modularity system. As this need to sit in a horizontal position I am wondering if there are any known cases that work well with this setup in the 420mm flavor?

I need to find a case other than the dimastech easyXL test bench where I can have this horizontal. I suppose worst case I can use the little legs and have it sit on the top of the case. Not the most secure setup but better than nothing.

This case appears to be close to having what I want. http://www.caselabs-store.com/removable-motherboard-tray-and-tech-station/ But I do not believe that a 420 rad will fit without modification. A 480 or a 360 yes, but I lied the look of the copper rad pump combo and went with the 420 without really thinking about the case much. I know, I know.

The dimastech case I mentioned earlier looks like it may but it still is not listed on the USA site for preorder and shipping from Italy will be a couple hundred dollars.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dagamus NM*
> 
> Looking for help with the combo rad res pump airplex modularity system. As this need to sit in a horizontal position I am wondering if there are any known cases that work well with this setup in the 420mm flavor?
> 
> I need to find a case other than the dimastech easyXL test bench where I can have this horizontal. I suppose worst case I can use the little legs and have it sit on the top of the case. Not the most secure setup but better than nothing.
> 
> This case appears to be close to having what I want. http://www.caselabs-store.com/removable-motherboard-tray-and-tech-station/ But I do not believe that a 420 rad will fit without modification. A 480 or a 360 yes, but I lied the look of the copper rad pump combo and went with the 420 without really thinking about the case much. I know, I know.
> 
> The dimastech case I mentioned earlier looks like it may but it still is not listed on the USA site for preorder and shipping from Italy will be a couple hundred dollars.


I'd take a look at the Caselabs SM8 . . .

One of the nice features of the SM8, is that you can assemble it in either normal ATX or Reverse ATX format, right as it comes out of the box.

Go with the drop in style top chassis panel, and get the 140 X 3 drop in mount.

I'd also go with the 31mm extended top, so you can have the rad mount on the under side of the panel, and the fans on top.

http://www.caselabs-store.com/merlin-sm8-case/





Actually, looking a little more closely at how long that combo rad/pump is, the pump will stick out a little too far to fit into the case . . . .

The work around would be to use the 120mm extended top, mount the rad on top of the mounting plate, then use a hole saw to make a hole in the end of the 120 mm extended top panel for the pump to stick out the rear a little.

That way you don't have to cut the case, just the back end of the 120mm top, and you'd have room for that combo rad and push-pull fans.



Darlene

Edit to add:

I found this pic to give an idea of how much more the D5 combo rad extends on the back end than a more normal 420 rad.

This would be a good way to get a fair idea of how much of the D5 will have to stick out the back end of the 120mm tall top:


----------



## Dagamus NM

Oh, perfect. Thank you so much. I will order today.

So what is the benefit to reverse ATX? I have seen some reverse trays but don't seem to understand the utility.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dagamus NM*
> 
> Oh, perfect. Thank you so much. I will order today.
> 
> So what is the benefit to reverse ATX? I have seen some reverse trays but don't seem to understand the utility.


Some people have their desk or work area set up sort of left handed where the PC is on their left.

If you have a nice build with a lot of eye candy you like to look at, having a reverse setup puts it so the mobo / window side is visible with the pc to your left.

If you have some of those high end acrylic GPU blocks, it also then has them facing up so they are visible, instead of just looking at the backplates.

Darlene


----------



## Dagamus NM

I see. My mom and brother are both left handed. Something to think about when considering building computers for them. Thank you again.

Left handed setups use to drive me nuts, now when I have left handed users I make sure to get a wireless mouse. Reverse buttons don't bother me much, but having to use my left hand due to a corded mouse being on the left side is maddening.

I just finished assembling my first poweradjust bracket with three PA3U's. It reminded me of a mechanical skills test I took for a temp agency when I was 19. Figuring out where each screw/standoff/washer goes was a fun little puzzle. I am glad there are no instructions.

I think I did it right. There are four shorter standoffs and eight longer ones. That took a minute to realize. There are also only eight washers but 36 possible placement locations.

I put the washers between the faceplate and the eight standoffs not touching the side brackets that the securing screws go into the chassis.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dagamus NM*
> 
> I see. My mom and brother are both left handed. Something to think about when considering building computers for them. Thank you again.
> 
> Left handed setups use to drive me nuts, now when I have left handed users I make sure to get a wireless mouse. Reverse buttons don't bother me much, but having to use my left hand due to a corded mouse being on the left side is maddening.
> 
> I just finished assembling my first poweradjust bracket with three PA3U's. It reminded me of a mechanical skills test I took for a temp agency when I was 19. Figuring out where each screw/standoff/washer goes was a fun little puzzle. I am glad there are no instructions.
> 
> I think I did it right. There are four shorter standoffs and eight longer ones. That took a minute to realize. There are also only eight washers but 36 possible placement locations.
> 
> I put the washers between the faceplate and the eight standoffs not touching the side brackets that the securing screws go into the chassis.


Yep, but don't think is a orientation for left hand people only...I am right-handedness but my PC is reverse oriented and seat on the left of my desk:


----------



## Dagamus NM

Thank you again. I opted for the setup with the eheim pump so that it maintains overall length. I have two of them so I will use one with the 3.140 drop in of the Merlin s8. Awesome-o!


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dagamus NM*
> 
> Thank you again. I opted for the setup with the eheim pump so that it maintains overall length. I have two of them so I will use one with the 3.140 drop in of the Merlin s8. Awesome-o!


For some reason I was thinking you had the D5 pump.

At any rate, you have the concept now, and can pick a case you like that has the type of rad mount and top options that will work for you.
















D.


----------



## RoostrC0gburn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Edit to add:
> 
> I found this pic to give an idea of how much more the D5 combo rad extends on the back end than a more normal 420 rad.
> 
> This would be a good way to get a fair idea of how much of the D5 will have to stick out the back end of the 120mm tall top:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


anyone have anymore info on the AC pump/rad combo? this may be perfect for my build, but i cant find any tech specs on the website. plus, my german is a little rusty... this could work perfectly, but i need dimensions. probly pretty tight


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RoostrC0gburn*
> 
> anyone have anymore info on the AC pump/rad combo? this may be perfect for my build, but i cant find any tech specs on the website. plus, my german is a little rusty... this could work perfectly, but i need dimensions. probly pretty tight


_All radiator types have an equal width of 146 mm and fit perfectly into standard 51/4 drive bays. Radiator height (without pump modules) is 63.5 mm, radiator length (without pump modules) can be calculated by adding 44 mm to the specified fan dimensions (for example model 360: 360 mm + 44 mm = 404 mm).
All threads are G1/4 and all fittings from the Aqua Computer web shop are compatible.
_

from here:

http://shop.aquacomputer.de/product_info.php?products_id=2719

now to figure out the pump module length and height....

frozencpu still have the dimensions there for several of the models with and without pump


----------



## RoostrC0gburn

good call, Gabe. saw that info on the AC website also, but the Frozen CPU page gives the footprint as (LxWxH) 345mm x 146mm x 95mm. which would work for me, but the In/Out is on the bottom of the pump. I suppose it could be mounted upside down, but then the issue would be clearance between the rad, fans, and case matching pump height

anyone seen these rad/pump combos in a build?


----------



## Anateus

Is it possible to connect voltage controlled fans to a splitter and somehow control their speed via Aquaero? For an example: 6 Gentle Typhoons connected to 6way splitter that also draws power from the PSU, but is also connected to Aquaero. I dont think this will work (unless the GTs would be PWM), but maybe there is a slight chance?


----------



## jagdtigger

Your guess is correct. That method only works with PWM controlled fans. But if i remember correctly the AQ6 can handle 6 of those fans on the same channel...


----------



## Ganf

Welp, the Peltier on a channel of my Aquaero 6 experiment was a flop. It can't put out enough amps to even cause a measurable difference. Looking for an actual chiller now because obviously this can't be left to end here.


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ganf*
> 
> Welp, the Peltier on a channel of my Aquaero 6 experiment was a flop. It can't put out enough amps to even cause a measurable difference. Looking for an actual chiller now because obviously this can't be left to end here.


Ppc sells some nuce chillers


----------



## Ganf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jagdtigger*
> 
> Your guess is correct. That method only works with PWM controlled fans. But if i remember correctly the AQ6 can handle 6 *15-20* of those fans on the same channel...


Fixed. His issue is that he is looking at the Aquaero 5 LT and is worried about getting the VRM's too hot.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> Ppc sells some nuce chillers


They sell some really expensive chillers. I'm looking at the cheap aquarium chillers because I don't want any more than say 10c below ambient in my water.


----------



## Anateus

Okay guys, thanks for advice! I will save some more money for AQ 6, since I will be attaching over 20 fans to it... Also tons of sensors and other stuff.


----------



## Ganf

You won't be disappointed.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anateus*
> 
> Okay guys, thanks for advice! I will save some more money for AQ 6, since I will be attaching over 20 fans to it... Also tons of sensors and other stuff.


I think you will be better served with the Aq6


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ganf*
> 
> Welp, the Peltier on a channel of my Aquaero 6 experiment was a flop. It can't put out enough amps to even cause a measurable difference. Looking for an actual chiller now because obviously this can't be left to end here.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ganf*
> 
> Welp, the Peltier on a channel of my Aquaero 6 experiment was a flop. It can't put out enough amps to even cause a measurable difference. Looking for an actual chiller now because obviously this can't be left to end here.
> 
> 
> 
> Ppc sells some nice chillers
Click to expand...

The problem is that they are out of stock on the 1/2 HP model, which is by far the most cost effective one they have.

I wouldn't mind picking up another one myself, when they restock it.

Darlene


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ganf*
> 
> Fixed. His issue is that he is looking at the Aquaero 5 LT and is worried about getting the VRM's too hot.
> They sell some really expensive chillers. I'm looking at the cheap aquarium chillers because I don't want any more than say 10c below ambient.


You have to have a chiller that is rated for the heat or wattage of your system! Minumum of 300 watts of cooling. This is just cou and gpu and not overclocked. If it dies not provide more cooling than heat generated then it will not cool the water!!


----------



## Mega Man

correct, it will slow the amount of time it takes to warm up, but not by much

my fav thing is going into these restaurants, where they keep " expanding " their product lines and bring in more fridges/freezers/other refrigeration equip and they go " make itcooler it is always hot back here"

i do a quick heat load calc, they have more heat generation then cooling capacity and they get mad when i tell them that ><.


----------



## Ganf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> You have to have a chiller that is rated for the heat or wattage of your system! Minumum of 300 watts of cooling. This is just cou and gpu and not overclocked. If it dies not provide more cooling than heat generated then it will not cool the water!!


I'm not trying for sub-ambient, I'm just trying to shave some of the heat off of my load temperatures. You only need to exceed the TDP of your machine if you are looking to reduce the water below the ambient temperature by removing more heat from the water than your PC is producing. If I have a PC that puts out 500w and I put a 200w cooler on it, my PC is still 200w cooler than it was before and I don't need to worry about shedding as much heat out of the radiators.

If I was going sub-ambient I'd need close to 1000w worth of a chiller, because if AMD ever plays their hand and shows me what the 390x has I'll finally be able to finish building my rig and put 2 of SOMEONE's GPU's in it. By the time I buy a 1000w chiller that I have to move around with a forklift and wear earplugs to operate I've spent more money than buying a phase change unit and swapping my coolant over to glycol

I've already been looking at used chillers that put out up to 1.2kw on Ebay for $200-500, but I have no intention of building a new addition onto my house for it to live in. If you're going sub-ambient, just use phase change.

Edit: and I just realized that I said -10c below ambient. I should've said that that was the water temps I wanted, not the operating temps. Sorry.


----------



## Mega Man

yes and no, more no then yes, and for what i understand you want you will hurt yourself more then help , assuming you are doing this for long term cooling vs short bursts ( I E BENCHING )

long term, unless you put it into a different room

you will need rads then route into the chiller then to your heat generating components,

if that chiller is in the same room then you will be adding ** SPEAKING GENERICALLY ** ~ 10% more heat then you are removing from your loop

which will far more hurt your ambient then anything else,

there are plenty of ways to counter this, but just food for thought and i highly disagree about ONLY going phase change, there are several reasons why chillers are better, the best being portability and NOISE benefits due to the portability

this is not even getting into the issues with dewpoint, which is a whole other argument

( this is not 100% accurate as all motors have different efficiencies but generic is good enough for this )

** i am not an engineer but i know the basics **


----------



## Ganf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> yes and no, more no then yes, and for what i understand you want you will hurt yourself more then help , assuming you are doing this for long term cooling vs short bursts ( I E BENCHING )
> 
> long term, unless you put it into a different room
> 
> you will need rads then route into the chiller then to your heat generating components,
> 
> if that chiller is in the same room then you will be adding ** SPEAKING GENERICALLY ** ~ 10% more heat then you are removing from your loop
> 
> which will far more hurt your ambient then anything else,
> 
> there are plenty of ways to counter this, but just food for thought and i highly disagree about ONLY going phase change, there are several reasons why chillers are better, the best being portability and NOISE benefits due to the portability
> 
> this is not even getting into the issues with dewpoint, which is a whole other argument
> 
> ( this is not 100% accurate as all motors have different efficiencies but generic is good enough for this )
> 
> ** i am not an engineer but i know the basics **


I get all of that, which is why I'm particularly looking for something I can stick the back side of out the window like a cheap air conditioner.









I've no problems putting it outside either, which may end up happening if I keep looking at these scientific chillers being sold on the cheap. Dewpoint is easy to manage too. I'm in Florida, it's always 80% humidity year round, no guesswork necessary.

And if it goes out back.... I can grab one of the ugly ones and feel no shame....


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> yes and no, more no then yes, and for what i understand you want you will hurt yourself more then help , assuming you are doing this for long term cooling vs short bursts ( I E BENCHING )
> 
> long term, unless you put it into a different room
> 
> you will need rads then route into the chiller then to your heat generating components,
> 
> if that chiller is in the same room then you will be adding ** SPEAKING GENERICALLY ** ~ 10% more heat then you are removing from your loop
> 
> which will far more hurt your ambient then anything else,
> 
> there are plenty of ways to counter this, but just food for thought and i highly disagree about ONLY going phase change, there are several reasons why chillers are better, the best being portability and NOISE benefits due to the portability
> 
> this is not even getting into the issues with dewpoint, which is a whole other argument
> 
> ( this is not 100% accurate as all motors have different efficiencies but generic is good enough for this )
> 
> ** i am not an engineer but i know the basics **


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ganf*
> 
> I get all of that, which is why I'm particularly looking for something I can stick the back side of out the window like a cheap air conditioner.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've no problems putting it outside either, which may end up happening if I keep looking at these scientific chillers being sold on the cheap. Dewpoint is easy to manage too. I'm in Florida, it's always 80% humidity year round, no guesswork necessary.
> 
> And if it goes out back.... I can grab one of the ugly ones and feel no shame....


Sorry i am an engineer and if you are putting 500 watts into a 200 watt chiller the water is only going ti get warmer!! You could reduce the heat load usung rads but flow will also play a big part in this! It is not as easy as you think my friend!! Not trying to rain on your parade but you would be money ahead if trying to do what you want to do if you spend 300 to 400 and get a decent aquaium cooler that is rated for around 400 to 500 watts! But it is your time and money! I design cooling as part of my job so i do have an idea what i am saying!


----------



## Ganf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> Sorry i am an engineer and if you are putting 500 watts into a 200 watt chiller the water is only going ti get warmer!! You could reduce the heat load usung rads but flow will also play a big part in this! It is not as easy as you think my friend!! Not trying to rain on your parade but you would be money ahead if trying to do what you want to do if you spend 300 to 400 and get a decent aquaium cooler that is rated for around 400 to 500 watts! But it is your time and money! I design cooling as part of my job so i do have an idea what i am saying!


I'm not putting 500 watts into a 200 watt cooler. The radiators stay in the loop, meaning that I'm keeping all of the heat dissipation capacity that I had before. The chiller goes in between the pump and the CPU inlet.

I know a little bit about what I'm doing too buddy. The loop already has the capacity to remove all of the heat the computer produces, I'm simply dropping the temperature of the water before it hits the CPU, nothing more and nothing less.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ganf*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> Sorry i am an engineer and if you are putting 500 watts into a 200 watt chiller the water is only going ti get warmer!! You could reduce the heat load usung rads but flow will also play a big part in this! It is not as easy as you think my friend!! Not trying to rain on your parade but you would be money ahead if trying to do what you want to do if you spend 300 to 400 and get a decent aquaium cooler that is rated for around 400 to 500 watts! But it is your time and money! I design cooling as part of my job so i do have an idea what i am saying!
> 
> 
> 
> I'm not putting 500 watts into a 200 watt cooler. *The radiators stay in the loop, meaning that I'm keeping all of the heat dissipation capacity that I had before.* The chiller goes in between the pump and the CPU inlet.
> 
> I know a little bit about what I'm doing too buddy. The loop already has the capacity to remove all of the heat the computer produces, I'm simply dropping the temperature of the water before it hits the CPU, nothing more and nothing less.
Click to expand...

You're sort of missing Scot's point,

The bolded text above is what you haven't thought all the way through . . .

The closer the coolant gets to ambient, (delta t approaches zero) the less heat dissipation capacity the rads have, and the more it falls on the chiller. *With the coolant at ambient, the rads have zero heat dissipation capacity, with the coolant at sub ambient, the rads have a negative dissipation capacity* . . . they heats the coolant.

If you want to keep rads in the loop, you need to have the fans shut down when you're on the chiller, so at least they don't work too much against you, and you have to have enough chiller capacity to completely cool the system because the rads are no longer helping.

I've found that using the Koolance plate exchangers with a separate cold loop works pretty well in a hybrid system with rads and chiller, where the chiller stays off most of the time, and comes on in high load situations when the rads are no longer capable of maintaining an acceptably low delta t, but I still have my fans turn off when the chiller is on so the rads then don't work against the chiller.

Really, the only way a small chiller could be used to any advantage in a system with rads, is if the rad space is so grossly undersized, that the delta t is running at 15C to 20C or more under load.

At least then is would just make up for some of the absent rad space and help get delta t's down into a more acceptable, 5C to 10C range or so.

Darlene


----------



## Ganf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> You're sort of missing Scot's point,
> 
> The bolded text above is what you haven't thought all the way through . . .
> 
> The closer the coolant gets to ambient, (delta t approaches zero) the less heat dissipation capacity the rads have, and the more it falls on the chiller. *With the coolant at ambient, the rads have zero heat dissipation capacity, with the coolant at sub ambient, the rads have a negative dissipation capacity* . . . they heats the coolant.
> 
> If you want to keep rads in the loop, you need to have the fans shut down when you're on the chiller, so at least they don't work too much against you, and you have to have enough chiller capacity to completely cool the system because the rads are no longer helping.
> 
> I've found that using the Koolance plate exchangers with a separate cold loop works pretty well in a hybrid system with rads and chiller, where the chiller stays off most of the time, and comes on in high load situations when the rads are no longer capable of maintaining an acceptably low delta t, but I still have my fans turn off when the chiller is on so the rads then don't work against the chiller.
> 
> Darlene


I get that 100%.

That's what I want. I'm not trying for any spectacular results. I'm not going to maintain low deltas as long as I maintain my current OC. Check around, a haswell-E with 1.3v vcore seems to spike 20-30c no matter what you do short of sub-zero cooling. I'm not trying to lower the delta, I just want to lower the idle so that it peaks around 60c instead of 70c.

If a water chiller that's got literally 10 times the flow rate of your standard loop and intended to chill a 300 gallon tank can't continuously chill 1 or 1.5 gallons of water flowing at 2gpm from ambient to 10c below ambient by all means *just say that*, I'll find something else that will do what I want, but enough with trying to tell me I'm doing something wrong because you're all looking at the wrong goalpost. The objective is that way.


Everyone should be following C, not A. A is clearly going the wrong damn way. And he's being a huge wang. You don't want to follow a phallus do you?


----------



## ozzy1925

I have 2x d5 aquabus pump and1x Flow sensor "high flow" G1/4 for aquaero with the connection cable for flow sensor .I dont want to connect these to my motherboard, just want to control them with aquaero I also have aquabus 2x 4pin y cable but i dont have any 4pin aqubus cable for them.I only have 3x 3pin aquabus rpm signal cable will my set up work?


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ozzy1925*
> 
> I have 2x d5 aquabus pump and1x Flow sensor "high flow" G1/4 for aquaero with the connection cable for flow sensor .I dont want to connect these to my motherboard, just want to control them with aquaero I also have aquabus 2x 4pin y cable but i dont have any 4pin aqubus cable for them.I only have 3x 3pin aquabus rpm signal cable will my set up work?


If I understand you right it should work


----------



## ozzy1925

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> If I understand you right it should work


should i connect the 3pin rpm cable to the 4pin aquabus y cable?


----------



## seross69

Yes 3 pin to pumps to 4 pin y to aquabus high

The 3 pin to aqua bus on pumps


----------



## BrettJSr72

I currently have an AQ6 XT and one Farbwerk. I'll send pictures tonight. Will be adding a 2nd for more LED controls


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ganf*
> 
> I get that 100%.
> 
> That's what I want. I'm not trying for any spectacular results. I'm not going to maintain low deltas as long as I maintain my current OC. Check around, a haswell-E with 1.3v vcore seems to spike 20-30c no matter what you do short of sub-zero cooling. I'm not trying to lower the delta, I just want to lower the idle so that it peaks around 60c instead of 70c.
> 
> If a water chiller that's got literally 10 times the flow rate of your standard loop and intended to chill a 300 gallon tank can't continuously chill 1 or 1.5 gallons of water flowing at 2gpm from ambient to 10c below ambient by all means *just say that*, I'll find something else that will do what I want, but enough with trying to tell me I'm doing something wrong because you're all looking at the wrong goalpost. The objective is that way.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Everyone should be following C, not A. A is clearly going the wrong damn way. And he's being a huge wang. You don't want to follow a phallus do you?


You want something to instantly chill water by 10 degrees. As everyone has been trying to explain. That just isn't possible and isn't how chillers work.
Just as the coolant in the system is not instantly raised in temp by 10C by the CPU and GPU heat.

Flowing at 2GPM would need about 5000+W of cooling power for an instant 10C temp change

If you had a 500W system to cool with rads and a 200W chiller then all the chiller will do is lower your air water delta by a few degrees from like ambient+10 to ambient +6 ... (If the system is cooled by the rads alone to ambient+10 then 10C is 500W dissipated, remove 200W, 10C X 2/5 = 4C)
It will not give you sub ambiant water at all.
It would simply be the equivalent of another radiator or higher fan speeds.


----------



## Gabrielzm

New Aquasuite and new firmware? What is new on this version Shoggy?

Oh boy...Now the MPS 400 show unscaled value but show zero flow...It should be around 1.4 GPM...

Clearly some bug in the new Aquasuite version @Shoggy. I reverted back to version 2015 - 4 and sure the flow reading is there. Problem is I already updated the firmware of both Aq5 lt and AQ 6 xt and now I can go back to 2015 - 4 and the MPS 400 don't work with this new version....


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ganf*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> You're sort of missing Scot's point,
> 
> The bolded text above is what you haven't thought all the way through . . .
> 
> The closer the coolant gets to ambient, (delta t approaches zero) the less heat dissipation capacity the rads have, and the more it falls on the chiller. *With the coolant at ambient, the rads have zero heat dissipation capacity, with the coolant at sub ambient, the rads have a negative dissipation capacity* . . . they heats the coolant.
> 
> If you want to keep rads in the loop, you need to have the fans shut down when you're on the chiller, so at least they don't work too much against you, and you have to have enough chiller capacity to completely cool the system because the rads are no longer helping.
> 
> I've found that using the Koolance plate exchangers with a separate cold loop works pretty well in a hybrid system with rads and chiller, where the chiller stays off most of the time, and comes on in high load situations when the rads are no longer capable of maintaining an acceptably low delta t, but I still have my fans turn off when the chiller is on so the rads then don't work against the chiller.
> 
> Darlene
> 
> 
> 
> I get that 100%.
> 
> That's what I want. I'm not trying for any spectacular results. I'm not going to maintain low deltas as long as I maintain my current OC. Check around, a haswell-E with 1.3v vcore seems to spike 20-30c no matter what you do short of sub-zero cooling. I'm not trying to lower the delta, I just want to lower the idle so that it peaks around 60c instead of 70c.
> 
> If a water chiller that's got literally 10 times the flow rate of your standard loop and intended to chill a 300 gallon tank can't continuously chill 1 or 1.5 gallons of water flowing at 2gpm from ambient to 10c below ambient by all means *just say that*, I'll find something else that will do what I want, but enough with trying to tell me I'm doing something wrong because you're all looking at the wrong goalpost. The objective is that way.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Everyone should be following C, not A. A is clearly going the wrong damn way. And he's being a huge wang. You don't want to follow a phallus do you?
Click to expand...

Insulting people who have the background and relevant experience to actually offer constructive advice and help you is a really great way to make sure that no one bothers to help you in the future.

So just to make sure I hadn't misconstrued what you were looking to do, I went back to your previous posts . . . . .

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ganf*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *jagdtigger*
> 
> Your guess is correct. That method only works with PWM controlled fans. But if i remember correctly the AQ6 can handle 6 *15-20* of those fans on the same channel...
> 
> 
> 
> Fixed. His issue is that he is looking at the Aquaero 5 LT and is worried about getting the VRM's too hot.
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> Ppc sells some nuce chillers
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> They sell some really expensive chillers. *I'm looking at the cheap aquarium chillers because I don't want any more than say 10c below ambient in my water*.
Click to expand...

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ganf*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> You have to have a chiller that is rated for the heat or wattage of your system! Minumum of 300 watts of cooling. This is just cou and gpu and not overclocked. If it dies not provide more cooling than heat generated then it will not cool the water!!
> 
> 
> 
> *I'm not trying for sub-ambient,* I'm just trying to shave some of the heat off of my load temperatures. You only need to exceed the TDP of your machine if you are looking to reduce the water below the ambient temperature by removing more heat from the water than your PC is producing. If I have a PC that puts out 500w and I put a 200w cooler on it, my PC is still 200w cooler than it was before and I don't need to worry about shedding as much heat out of the radiators.
> 
> If I was going sub-ambient I'd need close to 1000w worth of a chiller, because if AMD ever plays their hand and shows me what the 390x has I'll finally be able to finish building my rig and put 2 of SOMEONE's GPU's in it. By the time I buy a 1000w chiller that I have to move around with a forklift and wear earplugs to operate I've spent more money than buying a phase change unit and swapping my coolant over to glycol
> 
> I've already been looking at used chillers that put out up to 1.2kw on Ebay for $200-500, but I have no intention of building a new addition onto my house for it to live in. If you're going sub-ambient, just use phase change.
> 
> *Edit: and I just realized that I said -10c below ambient. I should've said that that was the water temps I wanted, not the operating temps. Sorry*.
Click to expand...

You've made several statements that seem to contradict each other . . . .

If you actually want coolant temps to be at ambient or a little below, you absolutely have to have a chiller that can carry the full heatload of your pc because the closer to ambient the coolant temp gets, the less heatload can be dissipated by the rads . . at ambient, the rads dissipate zero watts of heatload.

If you want a scenario like Jakusonfire talked about, where you have some amount of delta t, (maybe 10C or a little more) and would like to reduce it by a few degrees, then a smaller chiller would do that, as he said.

If you want lower coolant temps at idle, instead of tying the chiller operation to an elevated delta t, then a smaller chiller could do that . . . . But

It just doesn't seem to make a lot of sense to run a chiller with the cost of power on effectively a full time basis, especially when it isn't going to be that much help under load.

But it's your build, and maybe the best way to let children learn not to touch the stove is to let them touch the hot stove . . .

Darlene


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> New Aquasuite and new firmware? What is new on this version Shoggy?
> 
> Oh boy...Now the MPS 400 show unscaled value but show zero flow...It should be around 1.4 GPM...
> 
> Clearly some bug in the new Aquasuite version @Shoggy. I reverted back to version 2015 - 4 and sure the flow reading is there. Problem is I already updated the firmware of both Aq5 lt and AQ 6 xt and now I can go back to 2015 - 4 and the MPS 400 don't work with this new version....


The pitfalls of being a crash test dummy, erm early adopter . . . .

Hopefully they'll get it all sorted out quickly.

D.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> The pitfalls of being a crash test dummy, erm early adopter . . . .
> 
> Hopefully they'll get it all sorted out quickly.
> 
> D.


Yeah, you got that right on the strike out part







At least that is the way I feel now. There is something quite irresistible with that yellow button "update firmware" ....I always push it before remembering would have to redo my page or at least some part of it and sometimes even the controller....I shall resist next time


----------



## Shoggy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Oh boy...Now the MPS 400 show unscaled value but show zero flow...It should be around 1.4 GPM...
> 
> Clearly some bug in the new Aquasuite version @Shoggy. I reverted back to version 2015 - 4 and sure the flow reading is there. Problem is I already updated the firmware of both Aq5 lt and AQ 6 xt and now I can go back to 2015 - 4 and the MPS 400 don't work with this new version....


I am not able to reproduce this problem and I am sure we would have got already many e-mails if that would not work anymore. Where are you reading that value?


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> I am not able to reproduce this problem and I am sure we would have got already many e-mails if that would not work anymore. Where are you reading that value?


On your picture the low left end of the red arrow I could read just fine. It shows the unscaled value which was around 450~. But the upper right end of the arrow just sit at zero. I reverted back to 2015 - 4 and worked just fine. I am on the laptop now and not able to upload the pictures I took...

any way to revert the firmware back to 2002?

Ok Shoggy. Uninstall and clean install wipe out whatever was causing the problem. Back to normal.








_Wait...scratch that. It seems related to the unit. If I keep unist in L/hour it works just fine but if I change it to GPM or LPM it goes to zero...._


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Insulting people who have the background and relevant experience to actually offer constructive advice and help you is a really great way to make sure that no one bothers to help you in the future.
> 
> So just to make sure I hadn't misconstrued what you were looking to do, I went back to your previous posts . . . . .
> 
> You've made several statements that seem to contradict each other . . . .
> 
> If you actually want coolant temps to be at ambient or a little below, you absolutely have to have a chiller that can carry the full heatload of your pc because the closer to ambient the coolant temp gets, the less heatload can be dissipated by the rads . . at ambient, the rads dissipate zero watts of heatload.
> 
> If you want a scenario like Jakusonfire talked about, where you have some amount of delta t, (maybe 10C or a little more) and would like to reduce it by a few degrees, then a smaller chiller would do that, as he said.
> 
> If you want lower coolant temps at idle, instead of tying the chiller operation to an elevated delta t, then a smaller chiller could do that . . . . But
> 
> It just doesn't seem to make a lot of sense to run a chiller with the cost of power on effectively a full time basis, especially when it isn't going to be that much help under load.
> 
> 
> 
> *But it's your build, and maybe the best way to let children learn not to touch the stove is to let them touch the hot stove . . .*
> 
> Darlene


Lol

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> I am not able to reproduce this problem and I am sure we would have got already many e-mails if that would not work anymore. Where are you reading that value?
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


I'm having a similar The same issue after just updating.



Works fine as L/H but not L/m


----------



## Shoggy

OK, the "per minute" setting does the trick. I think I already know where this has its roots. We fixed a problem in the alarm settings with the per hours vs. per minute thing and I guess that has a side effect on the settings tab now. Anyway, we will look into that.


----------



## Jakusonfire

Ooooh, me so Tricky.
It's Tricky is the title, here we go

It's Tricky to rock a rhyme, to rock a rhyme that's right on time
It's Tricky, it's Tricky (Tricky) Tricky (Tricky)
It's Tricky to rock a rhyme, to rock a rhyme that's right on time
It's tricky, tricky (Tricky) tricky .... Tricky !!!!!!

Thanks Shoggy, just switching to L/H for my guages for a little while I guess.


----------



## Shoggy

A new aquasuite where this problem is fixed will be available later today or tomorrow.

edit: new version (2015 V6) is online now.


----------



## josetortola

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> A new aquasuite where this problem is fixed will be available later today or tomorrow.
> 
> edit: new version (2015 V6) is online now.


I've just installed it and my farbwerk and Aquaero 6 PRO have also updated their firmwares.

Now I have a problem. When updating firmwares they have gone back to factory defaults, and when I try to load my saved profiles to the Aquaero via Aquasuite, I'm not allowed to do that and it is displayed a message that says "Data not compatible with this firmware!".

This is really dissapointing.

EDIT: I spent hours calibrating my in-line temp sensors and adjusting my curve controllers in four different profiles to fit all my requeriments. My rig now can not be used untill I take some hours of my very limited free time to adjuts all again. I haven't seen any information about the firmware update making my saved profiles unusable. Really, I don't want this firmware, I want to go back to my old firmware to use my saved profiles, but from what I've read till now, it is not possible, is it?.


----------



## Jakusonfire

It worked fine for me as usual saving the profile and pages before installing. After the firmware update just imported the old profile and everything is as it was.

Got my L/m back now, thanks again Shoggy


----------



## josetortola

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> It worked fine for me as usual saving the profile and pages before installing. After the firmware update just imported the old profile and everything is as it was.


That's what I've tried. And also I had other four previous saved files a couple of weeks ago. None of them work now.

In this PC I have an Aquaero 6 PRO and a Farbwerk USB version. I haven't tried in other PC that has an AQ5LT, Farbwerk USB and Aqualis reservoir with fill level sensor because I do not want to lost that PC's configurations as in this one.


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *josetortola*
> 
> That's what I've tried. And also I had other four previous saved files a couple of weeks ago. None of them work now.
> 
> In this PC I have an Aquaero 6 PRO and a Farbwerk USB version. I haven't tried in other PC that has an AQ5LT, Farbwerk USB and Aqualis reservoir with fill level sensor because I do not want to lost that PC's configurations as in this one.


Were you already using Aquasuite 2015? because I know moving up to it was a big firmware change so profiles wouldn't transfer but this one isn't a big change.

Sucks losing your settings. Once you have enough practice with Aquasuite I find redoing the settings pretty easy and relatively quick. Redoing overview pages takes longer if they have lots of guages and graphs.

I was worried this new firmware had ruined my flow meter calibration and I would have break out my panel meter for a whole new calibration but thankfully there was no need.
What can also be a pain is if you have multiple water and air sensors that need to have offsets retuned. Means turning the system off and powering only the pump and Aquaero while you manually offset the sensors through the Aquaero keys. Thankfully all that was saved just fine.


----------



## BrettJSr72

@Shoggy is there a known issue with the Farbwerk with reference to greens and blues? Mine gives green when I set blue and blue when I set it to green.


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BrettJSr72*
> 
> @Shoggy is there a known issue with the Farbwerk with reference to greens and blues? Mine gives green when I set blue and blue when I set it to green.


That would be quite some known issue. Does it do it on more than one LED strip or output header? It sounds like maybe something was wired incorrectly on the strip.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> A new aquasuite where this problem is fixed will be available later today or tomorrow.
> 
> edit: new version (2015 V6) is online now.


Nice, fixed. Thank you









Like the rhyme Jak







Yep, profiles saved worked just fine for me.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BrettJSr72*
> 
> @Shoggy is there a known issue with the Farbwerk with reference to greens and blues? Mine gives green when I set blue and blue when I set it to green.


I also found that clicking the using default aquacomputer led strip box and un- ticking it in Aquasuite will usually give you better accuracy.


----------



## BrettJSr72

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Nice, fixed. Thank you
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like the rhyme Jak
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I also found that clicking the using default aquacomputer led strip box and un- ticking it in Aquasuite will usually give you better accuracy.


yep, tried that as well with same result, honestly, all that did was make the colors brighter, even on 100% brightness. I actually ordered a 2nd Farbwerk (USB) in attempts of ruling out a bad unit.


----------



## BrettJSr72

Looks like Aquacomputer has more in stock as of yesterday. I'll order a cable or two and LED strips directly from them. The current LED strips/connectors are from Performance PC, in-house brand. Wonder if they are quick connect or is soldering required?


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BrettJSr72*
> 
> @Shoggy is there a known issue with the Farbwerk with reference to greens and blues? Mine gives green when I set blue and blue when I set it to green.


There are some led strips that seem to have the blue and green backwards . . . even though the G R B markings are correct

Some come with controllers that account for it, and so it goes unnoticed until you use that strip with another controller expecting a more standard +, G, R, B ,

The hi-density strip that I got for the midplate for my TH10A build works fine with its controller and the Farby, but the strip I got from Home depot, which works with its included controller, but has the blue and green reversed when connected to the Farby or the other controller.

Darlene


----------



## BrettJSr72

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> There are some led strips that seem to have the blue and green backwards . . . even though the G R B markings are correct
> 
> Some come with controllers that account for it, and so it goes unnoticed until you use that strip with another controller expecting a more standard +, G, R, B ,
> 
> The hi-density strip that I got for the midplate for my TH10A build works fine with its controller and the Farby, but the strip I got from Home depot, which works with its included controller, but has the blue and green reversed when connected to the Farby or the other controller.
> 
> Darlene


And I believe you are correct. Comparing the LED strip I got via Performance PC to the one being displayed on Aquacomputer website, there is a slight difference. Only one way to be certain, I'll have to purchase AQ LED strip to test.


----------



## Mega Man

Why spend money? Just reverse the b and g wires.

If green comes on when you select blue and blue when you select green. It just means they ( the signals) are backwards


----------



## josetortola

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> Were you already using Aquasuite 2015? because I know moving up to it was a big firmware change so profiles wouldn't transfer but this one isn't a big change.
> 
> Sucks losing your settings. Once you have enough practice with Aquasuite I find redoing the settings pretty easy and relatively quick. Redoing overview pages takes longer if they have lots of guages and graphs.
> 
> I was worried this new firmware had ruined my flow meter calibration and I would have break out my panel meter for a whole new calibration but thankfully there was no need.
> What can also be a pain is if you have multiple water and air sensors that need to have offsets retuned. Means turning the system off and powering only the pump and Aquaero while you manually offset the sensors through the Aquaero keys. Thankfully all that was saved just fine.


Yes, I was using Aquasuite 2015 v4 before.

I've found the excel I made with all the measurements of the calibration process and, with some patience, at least one of my profiles is almost complete.

And now I'm thinking of a bad saving of my previous profiles. I've found a profile file saved some time ago and Aquasuite imported it. I've also tried to export the current profile that I'm making now and re-import it, and it worked. So I've compared those files... the new one and the very old one are 28kb files, but my last saved profiles before updating are 56kb files. Could it be some kind of bug of the previous Aquaero firmware or Aquasuite version or just bad luck?.

There is a long way to get the other 3 profiles done... but it seems to me that there is no other way now.


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *josetortola*
> 
> Yes, I was using Aquasuite 2015 v4 before.
> 
> I've found the excel I made with all the measurements of the calibration process and, with some patience, at least one of my profiles is almost complete.
> 
> And now I'm thinking of a bad saving of my previous profiles. I've found a profile file saved some time ago and Aquasuite imported it. I've also tried to export the current profile that I'm making now and re-import it, and it worked. So I've compared those files... the new one and the very old one are 28kb files, but my last saved profiles before updating are 56kb files. Could it be some kind of bug of the previous Aquaero firmware or Aquasuite version or just bad luck?.
> 
> There is a long way to get the other 3 profiles done... but it seems to me that there is no other way now.


A bad save has happened to me once before ... or at least something happened that seemed like that was the problem. At the time I just had to use a slightly older one and make the small changes since again.

No idea what the file sizing thing could mean. All my profiles are 28KB but they are all relatively new.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> you can leave both cables if you want (usb and aquabus). My guess is the cable Y. Is not the Aquacomputer one is it? If you use the aquacomputer aquabus cable as a simple PWM cable splitter the PWM fans will not work. So I am guessing using a simply Y pwm will not work on the pumps either (the reverse situation)....


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iBored*
> 
> Why is that?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> the cable? No clue mate. Just reporting what I found empirically. I tried before to use the Y aquabus cable as a PWM splitter for two pwm fans and did not work out. If you have any pwm fans you can test yourself.


@iBored just tested the Y cable from aquacomputer in two pwm fans and worked just fine (which should right?). So the other way around should work too. Maybe months ago when I tested this the plug was not inserted all the way in, who knows, but I did recall not working. Anyway, sorry to give you previous misleading info.


----------



## Jakusonfire

To work with Aquabus it just needs to have all pins connected. Many PWM splitters do not have all pins connected. Other than that, no difference.

I use these PWM splitter PCB's to turn one Aquabus port into 4, 6 or 8



They are one of the few that has all pins connected.


----------



## jvillaveces

I'm sorry if this question has been asked already. Will the Aquaero 6 Pro work with a Swiftech MCP655 PWM pump? Thanks!


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jvillaveces*
> 
> I'm sorry if this question has been asked already. Will the Aquaero 6 Pro work with a Swiftech MCP655 PWM pump? Thanks!


No not very well!! The pmw is differant from what i have read here


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jvillaveces*
> 
> I'm sorry if this question has been asked already. Will the Aquaero 6 Pro work with a Swiftech MCP655 PWM pump? Thanks!


Its most likely it won't work properly but there is a fairly easy fix.
If you just google "D5 PWM Aquaero" and go to images you will see a picture of a white PWM plug with resistors stuck in it as like the fifth or so result
which leads to this http://www.overclock.net/t/1474470/ocn-aquaero-owners-club/50

Alternatively Aquacomputer is now selling modified PWM D5's that work with Aquaero


----------



## jvillaveces

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> Its most likely it won't work properly but there is a fairly easy fix.
> If you just google "D5 PWM Aquaero" and go to images you will see a picture of a white PWM plug as like the third or so result
> which leads to this http://www.overclock.net/t/1474470/ocn-aquaero-owners-club/50
> 
> Alternatively Aquacomputer is now selling modified PWM D5's that work with Aquaero


Dang! I bought this: http://www.performance-pcs.com/performance-pcs-b-ber-655-b-fully-modded-d5-12-vdc-water-pump-gold.html and I am looking for a controller. The AQ6 Pro looked very attractive, but I don't think I have the knowledge or skills to attempt any mods.


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jvillaveces*
> 
> Dang! I bought this: http://www.performance-pcs.com/performance-pcs-b-ber-655-b-fully-modded-d5-12-vdc-water-pump-gold.html and I am looking for a controller. The AQ6 Pro looked very attractive, but I don't think I have the knowledge or skills to attempt any mods.


Good time to learn some then huh. Seriously this falls into the ages 5 and up category of modding. You could just do it all by jamming the parts into the connector and twisting wire with electrical tape almost.

Why do you want to have control of it though? The motherboard can do the job.


----------



## DewMan

As the proud new owner of a Aquaero 6 Pro (pix when my CL case arrives) I've read the tutorials and manuals and read unknown # of pages of this thread. I've got a good handle on the Aquaero Suite. But, I'm still a little fuzzy on the hardware hook up side of using the Pro 6. I know y'all can clear my fog easily if you take pity on me.









1) If the Fan 1-4 headers are set to PWM mode, do they still output 12V or do I need a splitter block to power the fans via molex/SATA power at that point? At most I'd have 8 fans on a single header and 16 fans total (so far) spread across 3 headers. If I use a splitter block with power and I only need the Fan headers for PWM & tach monitoring do I only want to hook up the PWM/Tach wires to the fan header?

2) If I'm using the AC factory modded (non-aquabus) PWM pumps that are powered via Molex, can I use PWM1-2 to hook up the pumps? If I use a Y cable to put both pumps on PWM 1 header do I treat them as fans and only tach wire one of them? Or does the factory mod negate having to do that?

I'm sure these are "Aquaero 101" questions and I apologize for not being able to find the answer for myself. **hangs head in shame**


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DewMan*
> 
> As the proud new owner of a Aquaero 6 Pro (pix when my CL case arrives) I've read the tutorials and manuals and read unknown # of pages of this thread. I've got a good handle on the Aquaero Suite. But, I'm still a little fuzzy on the hardware hook up side of using the Pro 6. I know y'all can clear my fog easily if you take pity on me.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 1) If the Fan 1-4 headers are set to PWM mode, do they still output 12V or do I need a splitter block to power the fans via molex/SATA power at that point? At most I'd have 8 fans on a single header and 16 fans total (so far) spread across 3 headers. If I use a splitter block with power and I only need the Fan headers for PWM & tach monitoring do I only want to hook up the PWM/Tach wires to the fan header?
> 
> 2) If I'm using the AC factory modded (non-aquabus) PWM pumps that are powered via Molex, can I use PWM1-2 to hook up the pumps? If I use a Y cable to put both pumps on PWM 1 header do I treat them as fans and only tach wire one of them? Or does the factory mod negate having to do that?
> 
> I'm sure these are "Aquaero 101" questions and I apologize for not being able to find the answer for myself. **hangs head in shame**


1) in PWM the voltage supplied is a constant 12 v. Usually you can stack a fair number of PWM fans in one channel, let's say 8 or 10. But at some point the signal might be weaken to much it if you keep stacking them, at least that is my understanding of it other might chime in latter (Diva and Shoggy)

2) if you are using this: http://shop.aquacomputer.de/product_info.php?language=en&products_id=3255 then you can hook two on the same channel using a splitter and having just one reporting rpm. A good y splitter usually will be that way. They are treated as fans and you will notice the pwm cable only have two wires with the power (12 v) and neutral coming from the molex.


----------



## DewMan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> 1) in PWM the voltage supplied is a constant 12 v. Usually you can stack a fair number of PWM fans in one channel, let's say 8 or 10. But at some point the signal might be weaken to much it if you keep stacking them, at least that is my understanding of it other might chime in latter (Diva and Shoggy)
> 
> 2) if you are using this: http://shop.aquacomputer.de/product_info.php?language=en&products_id=3255 then you can hook two on the same channel using a splitter and having just one reporting rpm. A good y splitter usually will be that way. They are treated as fans and you will notice the pwm cable only have two wires with the power (12 v) and neutral coming from the molex.


Thank! Info much appreciated Gabrielzm.

Any insight on how to wire the fans to the Pro 6 if I'm not powering them from the Pro 6? Just two wires (tach/PWM) instead of 4 correct?


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DewMan*
> 
> As the proud new owner of a Aquaero 6 Pro (pix when my CL case arrives) I've read the tutorials and manuals and read unknown # of pages of this thread. I've got a good handle on the Aquaero Suite. But, I'm still a little fuzzy on the hardware hook up side of using the Pro 6. I know y'all can clear my fog easily if you take pity on me.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 1) If the Fan 1-4 headers are set to PWM mode, do they still output 12V or do I need a splitter block to power the fans via molex/SATA power at that point? At most I'd have 8 fans on a single header and 16 fans total (so far) spread across 3 headers. If I use a splitter block with power and I only need the Fan headers for PWM & tach monitoring do I only want to hook up the PWM/Tach wires to the fan header?
> 
> 2) If I'm using the AC factory modded (non-aquabus) PWM pumps that are powered via Molex, can I use PWM1-2 to hook up the pumps? If I use a Y cable to put both pumps on PWM 1 header do I treat them as fans and only tach wire one of them? Or does the factory mod negate having to do that?
> 
> I'm sure these are "Aquaero 101" questions and I apologize for not being able to find the answer for myself. **hangs head in shame**


1 yes, you can easily do 20 fans per channel




2 you may not use the 2 pin pwm channels they output 12v !

pwm fans/pumps are GROUNDING a 5v signal!!!

you must use a pwm fan channel * any * but you may need the diva pump mod depending on which d5 you use

http://www.overclock.net/t/1474470/ocn-aquaero-owners-club/0_100#post_21956489
IT Diva

can we add it to the OP [email protected]~


----------



## DewMan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> 1 yes, you can easily do 20 fans per channel
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 2 you may not use the 2 pin pwm channels they output 12v !
> 
> pwm fans/pumps are GROUNDING a 5v signal!!!
> 
> you must use a pwm fan channel * any * but you may need the diva pump mod depending on which d5 you use
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1474470/ocn-aquaero-owners-club/0_100#post_21956489
> IT Diva
> 
> can we add it to the OP [email protected]~


I've seen that video before but I wasn't sure if the Aquaero 6 was set to PWM or not for that video.

Since I got the Aquacomputer modded (to work with the Aquaero 5/6) PWM Pumps I better not have to mod them further.









Thanks for your response Mega Man I don't want to blow up my pumps with the PWM1-2 ports then.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DewMan*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> 1) in PWM the voltage supplied is a constant 12 v. Usually you can stack a fair number of PWM fans in one channel, let's say 8 or 10. But at some point the signal might be weaken to much it if you keep stacking them, at least that is my understanding of it other might chime in latter (Diva and Shoggy)
> 
> 2) if you are using this: http://shop.aquacomputer.de/product_info.php?language=en&products_id=3255 then you can hook two on the same channel using a splitter and having just one reporting rpm. A good y splitter usually will be that way. They are treated as fans and you will notice the pwm cable only have two wires with the power (12 v) and neutral coming from the molex.
> 
> 
> 
> Thank! Info much appreciated Gabrielzm.
> 
> Any insight on how to wire the fans to the Pro 6 if I'm not powering them from the Pro 6? Just two wires (tach/PWM) instead of 4 correct?
Click to expand...

Yes, just PWM from all the fans, and 1 tach wire from a representative fan.

If you use a splitter that gets power from the PSU, be sure to use one that doesn't connect all the tach pins together, or mod one that does so it doesn't any more.

The Swiftech one is great, and just connects 1 fan to the tach line out, so no mod required.

And to reiterate what MM said, do not connect a pump to the 2 pin PWM channels, they are designed to control LEDs and have a much lower frequency and output a 12V pulse, where the fan channels in PWM mode are designed to sink a 5V source with a max current of <5ma to ground at the Intel standard frequency of 25KHz.

fwiw, . . . .

I asked Shoggy a long time back if they were voltage controlled fans in the video or PWM, he said they were voltage controlled.

Given the low current consumption of the AP-15's, (~83ma) running 40 of them on a single channel would come in at just under 40W, at max rpm, so probably doable, at least for a video.

Other fans take even less.

Darlene


----------



## Mega Man

where as my fans ( ap30s, you cant ... 1.5 a each >..> )


----------



## DewMan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Yes, just PWM from all the fans, and 1 tach wire from a representative fan.
> 
> If you use a splitter that gets power from the PSU, be sure to use one that doesn't connect all the tach pins together, or mod one that does so it doesn't any more.
> 
> The Swiftech one is great, and just connects 1 fan to the tach line out, so no mod required.
> 
> And to reiterate what MM said, do not connect a pump to the 2 pin PWM channels, they are designed to control LEDs and have a much lower frequency and output a 12V pulse, where the fan channels in PWM mode are designed to sink a 5V source with a max current of <5ma to ground at the Intel standard frequency of 25KHz.
> 
> fwiw, . . . .
> 
> I asked Shoggy a long time back if they were voltage controlled fans in the video or PWM, he said they were voltage controlled.
> 
> Given the low current consumption of the AP-15's, (~83ma) running 40 of them on a single channel would come in at just under 40W, at max rpm, so probably doable, at least for a video.
> 
> Other fans take even less.
> 
> Darlene


Thanks Darlene. I feel much more confident now. As soon as I get my case I'll decide where to power the fans from depending on how I want to do cable routing. and I'll make sure to get a proper Y cable for my pumps so I can hook them up on fan 4 header .

Thank you all for your responses.


----------



## IT Diva

Caution, rant about quality control, actually, more specifically the lack of it, follows:

So I ordered 2 more 6XTs to go in the Gray TH10A that I ordered to migrate my X79 RIVE build into.

They got here Friday, and I opened the boxes to start putting the heatsinks on this weekend.

BOTH of them had the plastic faceplates just sitting in the boxes, totally already popped off the front display.

I seem to remember that like 2 of the last 3 I bought before these were the same way, and Shoggy telling us about how all that's been fixed now . . . .

I have 7 of the 6XTs, and all but 2 have had the plastic cut too long from AC to fit flat and without being corrected, and won't stay in place.

This just really sucks big time . . . .

Why is this so hard to get right,

It's not like it hasn't been brought to AC's attention, repeatedly at that, and I can't be the one poor schmuck that somehow gets all the bad ones while everyone else gets good ones.

@Shoggy . . . What's the issue with why this isn't any better after the A6 having been out for going on a year and a half!

I mean 4 out of the last 5,and 5 out of 7 total have faces that bow out and fall off.

For the best, most expensive controller on the market, to continue to suffer such pissy QC issues is really without reasonable excuse.

[/rant]

Both new units as they came out of the boxes:



With the faces put back in place:



And a close up of just how much the faces bulge out:



Really tired of having to fix problems that should no longer exist,

Darlene


----------



## Dagamus NM

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Caution, rant about quality control, actually, more specifically the lack of it, follows:
> 
> BOTH of them had the plastic faceplates just sitting in the boxes, totally already popped off the front display.
> 
> I seem to remember that like 2 of the last 3 I bought before these were the same way, and Shoggy telling us about how all that's been fixed now . . . .
> 
> Darlene


Bummer, sorry to hear. Where did you order them from? Just wonder if you got new old stock. One of my two 6 txt 's was like this and my 6 pro was fine.

Shoggy sent me a replacement and all is good but I agree that zee Germans typically have their tolerances a little less tolerant on machine error so this doesn't jive.

Looking at the pictures you posted it seems that maybe the legs got bent inwards changing the shape of the front causing the lens to pop off. Maybe a packaging change or making the end users attach the legs would fix the problem. I cannot believe that AC would let these leave the factory like this.


----------



## Costas

It would be interesting to check their serial numbers to determine their build date.

I ordered my first 6XT mid last year from FCPU - No issue with front plastic bezel.

I ordered a 2nd 6XT just the other day from a local supplier and the electronic serial number on this unit pre-dates the unit sourced from FCPU so I assume it is an even earlier unit. Anyway the bezel on this 2nd unit is also fine.

So I assume that the ill fitting bezels are from a relatively recent production run which may be 6 months old or so?


----------



## Shoggy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> BOTH of them had the plastic faceplates just sitting in the boxes, totally already popped off the front display.


Just tell me how many new fronts you need and where to ship them.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dagamus NM*
> 
> I cannot believe that AC would let these leave the factory like this.


Of course they do not. When assembled they are in perfect condition but there seems to be an issue with the glue which takes a while to show up. We already switched to another type of glue.


----------



## DNMock

So just picked up a aquaero 6 to play with.

Got the flow rate and temp sensors, any other toys I should grab?

Also, as long as the Aquaero is connected to the motherboard via the USB, can it control fans/pumps connected to the motherboard as well? Like my pump is currently connected to the cpu fan header, do I need to swap it to be directly connected to the Aquaero 6 to control the pump or can I leave it connected to the MB and still control it with the Aquaero?

edit: Also I don't suppose there has been a work-a-round for the Silverstone AP 181 and 182 fans to work properly with the Aquaero? Not opposed to doing some cutting/splicing/soldering to get it to work as long as it's not a complete nightmare to do.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DNMock*
> 
> So just picked up a aquaero 6 to play with.
> 
> Got the flow rate and temp sensors, any other toys I should grab?
> 
> Also, as long as the Aquaero is connected to the motherboard via the USB, can it control fans/pumps connected to the motherboard as well? Like my pump is currently connected to the cpu fan header, do I need to swap it to be directly connected to the Aquaero 6 to control the pump or can I leave it connected to the MB and still control it with the Aquaero?
> 
> edit: Also I don't suppose there has been a work-a-round for the Silverstone AP 181 and 182 fans to work properly with the Aquaero? Not opposed to doing some cutting/splicing/soldering to get it to work as long as it's not a complete nightmare to do.


You need the pump or fans you want to control connected to the Aquaero not to the MB. You can connect the Aquaero to send rpm signal to MB just for alarm purposes. About the AP181 don't known...


----------



## DNMock

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> You need the pump or fans you want to control connected to the Aquaero not to the MB. You can connect the Aquaero to send rpm signal to MB just for alarm purposes. About the AP181 don't known...


Hmm, is there a hub or anything I could use as an in between? If I put the Aquaero near the MB and the pumps it will be about 6-7 ft away from all the fans and rads, and if I put it next to all the rads and fans, 6-7 ft away from the MB and pumps.

Unfortunately normal fan cable extensions daisy chained that distance has some voltage drop issues.

I could fab my own extensions using higher quality wire I suppose, or just rework my loop and move the pumps to the other section... hmmm









Actually this could solve everything, will the Aquaero properly control a swiftech MCP35x2 or are those non-compatible?


----------



## DewMan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DNMock*
> 
> If I put the Aquaero near the MB and the pumps it will be about 6-7 ft away from all the fans and rads, and if I put it next to all the rads and fans, 6-7 ft away from the MB and pumps.


I'm guessing you're using external rads to need cables that long?


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DNMock*
> 
> Hmm, is there a hub or anything I could use as an in between? If I put the Aquaero near the MB and the pumps it will be about 6-7 ft away from all the fans and rads, and if I put it next to all the rads and fans, 6-7 ft away from the MB and pumps.
> 
> Unfortunately normal fan cable extensions daisy chained that distance has some voltage drop issues.
> 
> I could fab my own extensions using higher quality wire I suppose, or just rework my loop and move the pumps to the other section... hmmm
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Actually this could solve everything, will the Aquaero properly control a swiftech MCP35x2 or are those non-compatible?


if you put the aquaero close to pumps and fans you will not have any problems since the only connection required is the USB to the MB. Even that connection can be severed since after you program the Aquaero you don't need the USB unless you want the aquasuite for visual constant inspection side of things but is not necessary since the Aquaero will function on its own after you program it. So in this setup the only long wire would be the USB. You cans et you MB to ingore the cpu rpm = 0. But if you need/want the Aquaero close to the MB then you will need custom wire for pumps and fans...


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DNMock*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> You need the pump or fans you want to control connected to the Aquaero not to the MB. You can connect the Aquaero to send rpm signal to MB just for alarm purposes. About the AP181 don't known...
> 
> 
> 
> Hmm, is there a hub or anything I could use as an in between? If I put the Aquaero near the MB and the pumps it will be about 6-7 ft away from all the fans and rads, and if I put it next to all the rads and fans, 6-7 ft away from the MB and pumps.
> 
> Unfortunately normal fan cable extensions daisy chained that distance has some voltage drop issues.
> 
> I could fab my own extensions using higher quality wire I suppose, or just rework my loop and move the pumps to the other section... hmmm
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Actually this could solve everything, will the Aquaero properly control a swiftech MCP35x2 or are those non-compatible*?
Click to expand...

The A6 likes the 35X pumps
















I've run as many as 4 off a single channel as a test, and had no problems.

Darlene


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> BOTH of them had the plastic faceplates just sitting in the boxes, totally already popped off the front display.
> 
> 
> 
> Just tell me how many new fronts you need and where to ship them.
> 
> A little patience and a few minutes at the belt sander takes care of the plastic being too long, and a tiny film of silicon adhesive seems to have them all under control at the moment.
> 
> If they get dodgy again, I'll take you up on some shiny new ones.
> 
> Don't know if it was the plastic being too long, or the stainless steel faceplate opening being lasered too short, but it was about 0.5mm that I took off the plastics to have them drop right into place.
> 
> No glue in the world is going to hold up to that much mismatch trying to bow the plastic out.
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Dagamus NM*
> 
> I cannot believe that AC would let these leave the factory like this.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Of course they do not. When assembled they are in perfect condition but there seems to be an issue with the glue which takes a while to show up. We already switched to another type of glue.
Click to expand...


----------



## DNMock

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DewMan*
> 
> I'm guessing you're using external rads to need cables that long?


Yeah, problem is it's a desk build and the rads are built into one side and the MB is built into the other so it's a long distance.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> if you put the aquaero close to pumps and fans you will not have any problems since the only connection required is the USB to the MB. Even that connection can be severed since after you program the Aquaero you don't need the USB unless you want the aquasuite for visual constant inspection side of things but is not necessary since the Aquaero will function on its own after you program it. So in this setup the only long wire would be the USB. You cans et you MB to ingore the cpu rpm = 0. But if you need/want the Aquaero close to the MB then you will need custom wire for pumps and fans...


That's good to know, I was thinking the MB connection needed to be maintained at all times, read something in the manual about it being a secondary power source.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> The A6 likes the 35X pumps
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've run as many as 4 off a single channel as a test, and had no problems.
> 
> Darlene


I thought it would work fine, but glad to get it verified.

Actually I've been told you are quite experienced with rather large loops. What method do you use to fill them? Currently I'm having to use a pair of shut off valves inside the loop and a drill pump to get it filled and enough air removed from the loop for the pumps to get it all cycling. It's a rather messy and time consuming approach so I was wondering if you had any tips or suggestions. The set-up is in my sig and I'm gonna be taking it apart to transport it to another room in the house so that would be the opportune time to make any changes (and when I plan on installing the A6).

Thanks for the info all of you btw,


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DNMock*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> You need the pump or fans you want to control connected to the Aquaero not to the MB. You can connect the Aquaero to send rpm signal to MB just for alarm purposes. About the AP181 don't known...
> 
> 
> 
> Hmm, is there a hub or anything I could use as an in between? If I put the Aquaero near the MB and the pumps it will be about 6-7 ft away from all the fans and rads, and if I put it next to all the rads and fans, 6-7 ft away from the MB and pumps.
> 
> Unfortunately normal fan cable extensions daisy chained that distance has some voltage drop issues.
> 
> I could fab my own extensions using higher quality wire I suppose, or just rework my loop and move the pumps to the other section... hmmm
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Actually this could solve everything, will the Aquaero properly control a swiftech MCP35x2 or are those non-compatible?
Click to expand...

Yes I also run a few rigs with 4 mcp35x

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DNMock*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *DewMan*
> 
> I'm guessing you're using external rads to need cables that long?
> 
> 
> 
> Yeah, problem is it's a desk build and the rads are built into one side and the MB is built into the other so it's a long distance.
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> if you put the aquaero close to pumps and fans you will not have any problems since the only connection required is the USB to the MB. Even that connection can be severed since after you program the Aquaero you don't need the USB unless you want the aquasuite for visual constant inspection side of things but is not necessary since the Aquaero will function on its own after you program it. So in this setup the only long wire would be the USB. You cans et you MB to ingore the cpu rpm = 0. But if you need/want the Aquaero close to the MB then you will need custom wire for pumps and fans...
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> That's good to know, I was thinking the MB connection needed to be maintained at all times, read something in the manual about it being a secondary power source.
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> The A6 likes the 35X pumps
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've run as many as 4 off a single channel as a test, and had no problems.
> 
> Darlene
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> I thought it would work fine, but glad to get it verified.
> 
> Actually I've been told you are quite experienced with rather large loops. What method do you use to fill them? Currently I'm having to use a pair of shut off valves inside the loop and a drill pump to get it filled and enough air removed from the loop for the pumps to get it all cycling. It's a rather messy and time consuming approach so I was wondering if you had any tips or suggestions. The set-up is in my sig and I'm gonna be taking it apart to transport it to another room in the house so that would be the opportune time to make any changes (and when I plan on installing the A6).
> 
> Thanks for the info all of you btw,
Click to expand...

My idea is to make a large res ( several gallons ) with a pump on the output then 2 qdcs ( on on the top of the res aka intake as one on the tube from the discharge of the pump

Then wholy prime the main loop with it


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DNMock*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *DewMan*
> 
> I'm guessing you're using external rads to need cables that long?
> 
> 
> 
> Yeah, problem is it's a desk build and the rads are built into one side and the MB is built into the other so it's a long distance.
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> if you put the aquaero close to pumps and fans you will not have any problems since the only connection required is the USB to the MB. Even that connection can be severed since after you program the Aquaero you don't need the USB unless you want the aquasuite for visual constant inspection side of things but is not necessary since the Aquaero will function on its own after you program it. So in this setup the only long wire would be the USB. You cans et you MB to ingore the cpu rpm = 0. But if you need/want the Aquaero close to the MB then you will need custom wire for pumps and fans...
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> That's good to know, I was thinking the MB connection needed to be maintained at all times, read something in the manual about it being a secondary power source.
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> The A6 likes the 35X pumps
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've run as many as 4 off a single channel as a test, and had no problems.
> 
> Darlene
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> I thought it would work fine, but glad to get it verified.
> 
> *Actually I've been told you are quite experienced with rather large loops. What method do you use to fill them?* Currently I'm having to use a pair of shut off valves inside the loop and a drill pump to get it filled and enough air removed from the loop for the pumps to get it all cycling. It's a rather messy and time consuming approach so I was wondering if you had any tips or suggestions. The set-up is in my sig and I'm gonna be taking it apart to transport it to another room in the house so that would be the opportune time to make any changes (and when I plan on installing the A6).
> 
> Thanks for the info all of you btw,
Click to expand...

I use a pressurized system to push coolant up into the system from the bottom thru the drain port.

I use the port caps on the res and a bleed valve at the high point to sort of control the direction of what fills in what order.

You can use other caps, if you have them, and suspect you may be creating an air pocket in that area.

Since it fills from the bottom up, it does a great job of pushing the air out as it fills, since gravity is on my side.

Be sure to watch the fill level as it approaches caps you may have loosened as bleed points.

It makes it a lot easier for an old lady like me, with very limited abilities to physically manhandle a large heavy pc, to help burp out air pockets.

The apparatus is pretty simple, made from a modified water system filter housing.

I fill the canister with coolant, apply a 2 to 3 psi of air with a low pressure regulator, and the coolant is forced out of the canister thru the tube attached to the drain port.

Using very low pressure insures a slow fill with plenty of time for air pockets to be pushed to the top and out your vent points.

There are valves on each side of the canister to isolate it, so I can bleed the air with the Schrader valve to add more coolant to refill the canister. . . . There's a plug on the back side opposite the Schrader valve to allow refilling the canister.

I made it in a pretty modular configuration with QDs, so I can take it apart into smaller bits for easier storage.





Darlene


----------



## DNMock

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> I use a pressurized system to push coolant up into the system from the bottom thru the drain port.
> 
> I use the port caps on the res and a bleed valve at the high point to sort of control the direction of what fills in what order.
> 
> You can use other caps, if you have them, and suspect you may be creating an air pocket in that area.
> 
> Since it fills from the bottom up, it does a great job of pushing the air out as it fills, since gravity is on my side.
> 
> Be sure to watch the fill level as it approaches caps you may have loosened as bleed points.
> 
> It makes it a lot easier for an old lady like me, with very limited abilities to physically manhandle a large heavy pc, to help burp out air pockets.
> 
> The apparatus is pretty simple, made from a modified water system filter housing.
> 
> I fill the canister with coolant, apply a 2 to 3 psi of air with a low pressure regulator, and the coolant is forced out of the canister thru the tube attached to the drain port.
> 
> Using very low pressure insures a slow fill with plenty of time for air pockets to be pushed to the top and out your vent points.
> 
> There are valves on each side of the canister to isolate it, so I can bleed the air with the Schrader valve to add more coolant to refill the canister. . . . There's a plug on the back side opposite the Schrader valve to allow refilling the canister.
> 
> I made it in a pretty modular configuration with QDs, so I can take it apart into smaller bits for easier storage.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Darlene


That is absolutely brilliant!









Apologies for dragging off topic, but that's some pretty fantastic info to have, thank you very much!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> Yes I also run a few rigs with 4 mcp35x
> My idea is to make a large res ( several gallons ) with a pump on the output then 2 qdcs ( on on the top of the res aka intake as one on the tube from the discharge of the pump
> 
> Then wholy prime the main loop with it


I do like the suggestion but, not gonna lie, Darlene's set up looks way more efficient.


----------



## IT Diva

As it turned out, and which really made the assembly sweet and easy, is that the port in the canister head that goes to the outlet side,

is just the right inside diameter to thread it with a 3/8 NPT tap, so that short 3/8 pipe nipple that reduces to the tube to the bottom of the canister

can screw right in.

D.


----------



## Dagamus NM

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DNMock*
> 
> Hmm, is there a hub or anything I could use as an in between? If I put the Aquaero near the MB and the pumps it will be about 6-7 ft away from all the fans and rads, and if I put it next to all the rads and fans, 6-7 ft away from the MB and pumps.
> 
> Unfortunately normal fan cable extensions daisy chained that distance has some voltage drop issues.
> 
> I could fab my own extensions using higher quality wire I suppose, or just rework my loop and move the pumps to the other section... hmmm
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Actually this could solve everything, will the Aquaero properly control a swiftech MCP35x2 or are those non-compatible?


Wouldn't it make sense to run the aquaero near the mb and just have a cable for signal and power to the poweradjust.


----------



## DNMock

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dagamus NM*
> 
> Wouldn't it make sense to run the aquaero near the mb and just have a cable for signal and power to the poweradjust.


Would need 2 of them, but that is a definite possibility.


----------



## Shoggy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DNMock*
> 
> edit: Also I don't suppose there has been a work-a-round for the Silverstone AP 181 and 182 fans to work properly with the Aquaero? Not opposed to doing some cutting/splicing/soldering to get it to work as long as it's not a complete nightmare to do.


I am not aware of any problems with the 181 but the 182 can not be controlled in a useful way at all. Its control is based on the little speed control slot cover which comes with the fan and it seems to use its own kind of signal style. It is not even possible to control the fan by voltage.


----------



## fast_fate

Can anyone confirm if the Watercool D5 PWM is compatible with Aquaero out of the box (no Diva mod required).
Doing a Watercool order next week and will grab a couple to combine shipping if they are known to work.


----------



## VSG

I had sent an email to Watercool about this and nope, it seems to be a standard Laing PWM implementation.


----------



## DNMock

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> I am not aware of any problems with the 181 but the 182 can not be controlled in a useful way at all. Its control is based on the little speed control slot cover which comes with the fan and it seems to use its own kind of signal style. It is not even possible to control the fan by voltage.


Will it monitor the RPM's if connected or is that not possible due to the way the fan is set up? Stupid analog rheobus...


----------



## the_cyberspace

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> And a close up of just how much the faces bulge out:
> 
> 
> 
> Really tired of having to fix problems that should no longer exist,


Same problem over here. Bought the plate and controller at the end off 2014, i fixxed it with some tape by myself.

I also have problems with my flowmeter and the AQ D5 pump. Cannot control the pump speed, and the flowmeter doens`t show up anything. I can see both when i`m plug in the usb cable(`s) but nothing seems te work. and try to set different id,`s (12 for the pump, 13 for the flowmeter but nothing works)


----------



## fast_fate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> I had sent an email to Watercool about this and nope, it seems to be a standard Laing PWM implementation.


Cheers Mate,
+ Rep


----------



## DewMan

I can't be the first to consider this can I?

How to remove what appears to be silk screened(?) markings on the optional black faceplate for 6Pro?

I've got the black faceplate option for the 6Pro. But I'm really not liking the silver labeling on the front. I much prefer the front blank rather than the silver markings. I flipped the plate 180 and it looks awesome but the top border is narrower than the bottom border and the plate doesn't fit 100% and blocks the top edge of the screen when flipped.

I can't tell if the finish of the plate is anodized or not and I don't want to wipe away any of the black by using the wrong chemical to remove the silk screening.

*Has anyone successfully removed the labeling without harming the black finish? If so how?*

Thanks for any insight you may have.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DewMan*
> 
> I can't be the first to consider this can I?
> 
> How to remove what appears to be silk screened(?) markings on the optional black faceplate for 6Pro?
> 
> I've got the black faceplate option for the 6Pro. But I'm really not liking the silver labeling on the front. I much prefer the front blank rather than the silver markings. I flipped the plate 180 and it looks awesome but the top border is narrower than the bottom border and the plate doesn't fit 100% and blocks the top edge of the screen when flipped.
> 
> I can't tell if the finish of the plate is anodized or not and I don't want to wipe away any of the black by using the wrong chemical to remove the silk screening.
> 
> *Has anyone successfully removed the labeling without harming the black finish? If so how?*
> 
> Thanks for any insight you may have.


One simple solution would be just paint all in matte black


----------



## Costas

Do the screws as well while you're at it......


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> One simple solution would be just paint all in matte black


Or a couple of layers from a sharpe would work also!!


----------



## DewMan

Thanks for the responses people. Much appreciated.









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> One simple solution would be just paint all in matte black


If it's actually anodized I'd prefer to keep it as such, but painting it was to be my next option if I can't find a way to remove the markings.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Costas*
> 
> Do the screws as well while you're at it......


I'm kind of liking the screws matching the finish of the buttons. of the Pro

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> Or a couple of layers from a sharpe would work also!!


Sounds a little more ghetto than I want to go but I appreciated the thought.







I was thinking of using a chisel point Sharpie on the brown Noctua dampeners on my iPPC fans though.

Thanks again for the suggestions. I was hoping to hear "I removed the marking with nail polish remover the black finish was unharmed" or something like that. If I don't get a response along those lines I'll see what I can do....worse case I end up having to paint it.


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DewMan*
> 
> Thanks for the responses people. Much appreciated.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If it's actually anodized I'd prefer to keep it as such, but painting it was to be my next option if I can't find a way to remove the markings.
> I'm kind of liking the screws matching the finish of the buttons. of the Pro
> Sounds a little more ghetto than I want to go but I appreciated the thought.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I was thinking of using a chisel point Sharpie on the brown Noctua dampeners on my iPPC fans though.
> 
> Thanks again for the suggestions. I was hoping to hear "I removed the marking with nail polish remover the black finish was unharmed" or something like that. If I don't get a response along those lines I'll see what I can do....worse case I end up having to paint it.


Really try several coats from a sharpe and if you dont like it you will not be any worse off i have used this before with good results


----------



## DewMan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> Really try several coats from a sharpe and if you dont like it you will not be any worse off i have used this before with good results


OK... I trust you.









If I can't get the markings removed safely I'll try a Sharpie before painting.


----------



## DewMan

Hey @Shoggy , Can you tell us if the finish on the Optional black faceplate is anodized or not? If it's not that'll limit my options as to removing the markings cleanly.

Edit:
Ahh! according to PPCS description "using this black anodized aluminum bezel, the aquaero perfectly matches any black PC case." It's anodized. I may be able to cleanly remove the markings yet.


----------



## Shoggy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DewMan*
> 
> How to remove what appears to be silk screened(?) markings on the optional black faceplate for 6Pro?


Not possible since it is a laser engraving and no painting etc.


----------



## Swuell

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> To work with Aquabus it just needs to have all pins connected. Many PWM splitters do not have all pins connected. Other than that, no difference.
> 
> I use these PWM splitter PCB's to turn one Aquabus port into 4, 6 or 8
> 
> 
> 
> They are one of the few that has all pins connected.


Would you mind telling me what controller hub that is and would a separate power be required for that?

Thanks!


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Swuell*
> 
> Would you mind telling me what controller hub that is and would a separate power be required for that?
> 
> Thanks!


That is one of the ModMyToys models
http://www.performance-pcs.com/modmytoys-4-pin-pwm-power-distribution-pcb-8-way-block.html

They are cheap DIY boards so don't come with any cables. If you wanted to use separate power input for fan controlling then you would just need a cable like the ones that come with the Phobya boards. They are 4pin PWM female with two wires leading to a molex plug and the other two to 4pin PWM female.



Otherwise you just use 4pin PWM female to female cables like they list in the link. The Aquaero can easily power the fans itself and makes for less wiring.

I haven't seen the cable you would need available separately so you would need to make your own.
If you can't, or don't want to, do that then these ones have power input but are much larger and more expensive.
http://www.performance-pcs.com/modmytoys-4-pin-pwm-low-profile-power-distribution-pcb-8-way-block.html

For a powered PWM splitter I much prefer the Silverstone model. Its compact, the connections are flat and comes with the cables needed.
http://www.performance-pcs.com/silverstone-cpf04-1-to-8-pwm-fan-fub-black.html


----------



## Shoggy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DNMock*
> 
> Will it monitor the RPM's if connected or is that not possible due to the way the fan is set up?


Reading the speed will work.


----------



## DewMan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> Not possible since it is a laser engraving and no painting etc.


Thanks Shoggy. I was afraid of that.







I'll resort to painting then.


----------



## DNMock

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> Reading the speed will work.


Sweet, so I can just drill a couple holes next to the A6 and put the rheobus controllers on those fans through there to control them. That will work.


----------



## LandonAaron

Hello, I am considering picking up the Aquero 5 LT. I was originally considering just getting the poweradjust 3 as it seems to have many of the same features, except for it only has 1 controllable fan channel instead of 4, and I really only need one channel, but the 5 LT ins't that much more and it will be nice having the option to control other fans if I need to.

I have couple of questions about the device though. I saw on performacne-pcs that they are no longer accepting RMA's for Aquero products, becasue "many users are overloading them and causing them to fail". Is the failure rate really that high on these? Is the Aquero 6 heatsink compatible with the Aquero 5?

Is it possible to turn fans down to a complete stop?

Sorry for all the questions. I am trying to read through the manual, but its loooong, lol, and there are a lot of features which I don't fully understand yet.


----------



## Ironsmack

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LandonAaron*
> 
> Hello, I am considering picking up the Aquero 5 LT. I was originally considering just getting the poweradjust 3 as it seems to have many of the same features, except for it only has 1 controllable fan channel instead of 4, and I really only need one channel, but the 5 LT ins't that much more and it will be nice having the option to control other fans if I need to.
> 
> I have couple of questions about the device though. I saw on performacne-pcs that they are no longer accepting RMA's for Aquero products, becasue "many users are overloading them and causing them to fail". Is the failure rate really that high on these? Is the Aquero 6 heatsink compatible with the Aquero 5?
> 
> Is it possible to turn fans down to a complete stop?
> 
> Sorry for all the questions. I am trying to read through the manual, but its loooong, lol, and there are a lot of features which I don't fully understand yet.


The VRM's on the LT 5 runs hotter compared to the AQ6. However, if you have airflow going through them or purchased the heatsink/WB for it - its no problem.

Im currently running (8) AP15's on 2 channels each and its controlling it very well (my LT has a WB). It also has thermal protection. If the controller exceeds the thermal protection, it'll speed the fans up until they're on their safe temp range and control the fans just as you set them.

You can also manage to stop the fans if you want.

As far as im concerned, the heatsink are not interchangeable.


----------



## Mega Man

With the LT the heatsink or waterblock are a must

and no most people don't overload them. But enough do that hurt their bottom line ( understandable ) so they require you to use the manufacturer so they don't eat the money lost


----------



## Shoggy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LandonAaron*
> 
> I saw on performacne-pcs that they are no longer accepting RMA's for Aquero products, becasue "many users are overloading them and causing them to fail". Is the failure rate really that high on these?


It is definitely not that high. I can not even remember when we had the last RMA where someone overloaded it since it is also not directly possible to do this. Besides a short circuit protection they also all have a current and temperature monitoring that will cut off the power before anything can happen. Of course that is not 100% fail-safe and damages are still possible if you do some weird things.

Anyway, the info at PPCS is a bit misleading here. I assume they do not take any RMAs here since unlike other companies we take every RMA serious and review it into detail till we found the reason of the failure since this is also important to address possible quality issues. Unfortunately it is a matter of fact that about 90%+ of the aquaero RMAs can be clearly traced down to problems or damages caused by the user. Let it be simple things like a messed up configuration (great deal to ship the device back and forth around the globe just to have us reset it to factory defaults...) up to classic things like short circuit or overvoltage (mainly caused through wrong wiring).

I assume they had some bad experience where they just swapped out faulty devices without asking any questions and later got the info that it can not be exchanged since the customer damaged it.


----------



## LandonAaron

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> It is definitely not that high. I can not even remember when we had the last RMA where someone overloaded it since it is also not directly possible to do this. Besides a short circuit protection they also all have a current and temperature monitoring that will cut off the power before anything can happen. Of course that is not 100% fail-safe and damages are still possible if you do some weird things.
> 
> Anyway, the info at PPCS is a bit misleading here. I assume they do not take any RMAs here since unlike other companies we take every RMA serious and review it into detail till we found the reason of the failure since this is also important to address possible quality issues. Unfortunately it is a matter of fact that about 90%+ of the aquaero RMAs can be clearly traced down to problems or damages caused by the user. Let it be simple things like a messed up configuration (great deal to ship the device back and forth around the globe just to have us reset it to factory defaults...) up to classic things like short circuit or overvoltage (mainly caused through wrong wiring).
> 
> I assume they had some bad experience where they just swapped out faulty devices without asking any questions and later got the info that it can not be exchanged since the customer damaged it.


Thanks for the info guys.

I think the short circuit protection only applies to the Aquero 6:



Anyway I wasn't too worried about short circuits anyway, mainly concerned with the over-heating/over-loading. Sounds like if I just get a heatsink I will be fine. However PPC's is currently out of stock on the Aquero 5 heatsink, and I can't find it on the Aquacomputer shop site. I was planning on mounting this in the back panel area behind the motherboard tray, but it sound like it will be better off in the main chamber where it can get some airflow. will probably drill some holes and mount it between the motherboard and the power supply. I have some small aluminum heatsinks I could glue on there with thermal cement.

Is it just these 4 little black squares that need a heatsink?


----------



## Shoggy

The aquaero 5 has no short circuit protection in hardware but as a software feature. It is the programmable fuse which you can also access in the aquasuite. The device interrupts the output if the current jumps above a hard limit (always present) or your programmed limit which can be lower. So it will not protect the device against anything but small mistakes can be covered









The passive heatsink is available here. It can be also shipped with a padded envelope for 5.00 Euro but in this case you have to order by e-mail because the webshop will always charge for a parcel.

The original heatsink covers these areas:



The arrow is only there to make sure that customers will not miss this area because the printed note is much smaller


----------



## LandonAaron

So I was looking at the accessories for the Aquero and I think I am going to get this flow meter:



and this filter to start with.



On the filter though I am a little confused about the mounting mechanism if I want to be able to view the filter from outside my case. Could I cut a hole in my side panel, then mount the silver frame piece to the oustide of the case hiding the edges of the hole, with the filter then on the inside of the case.

So from outside to inside it would go Silver Frame>Side Panel>Filter.

Cutting a hole of approximately this shape and size?


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LandonAaron*
> 
> So I was looking at the accessories for the Aquero and I think I am going to get this flow meter:
> 
> 
> 
> and this filter to start with.
> 
> 
> 
> On the filter though I am a little confused about the mounting mechanism if I want to be able to view the filter from outside my case. Could I cut a hole in my side panel, then mount the silver frame piece to the oustide of the case hiding the edges of the hole, with the filter then on the inside of the case.
> 
> So from outside to inside it would go Silver Frame>Side Panel>Filter.
> 
> Cutting a hole of approximately this shape and size?


That filter looks very restrictive with the 180 in it!!!


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LandonAaron*
> 
> So I was looking at the accessories for the Aquero and I think I am going to get this flow meter:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and this filter to start with.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On the filter though I am a little confused about the mounting mechanism if I want to be able to view the filter from outside my case. Could I cut a hole in my side panel, then mount the silver frame piece to the oustide of the case hiding the edges of the hole, with the filter then on the inside of the case.
> 
> So from outside to inside it would go Silver Frame>Side Panel>Filter.
> 
> Cutting a hole of approximately this shape and size?
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> That filter looks very restrictive with the 180 in it!!!


Not sure the filter is restrictive. Apparently not:

http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/showthread.php?221116-aqua-computer-s-new-mounted-filter

but the flow meter is restrictive. Expect something close to a MIPS cpu water block in terms of restriction by using it. If you want a flow meter with very low restriction go with the MPS 400. You can check those numbers here:

http://www.overclock.net/t/1501978/ocn-community-water-cooling-test-thread

I think the hole should equal the square outline.

http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/showthread.php?269429-The-AquaComputer-Water-Filter-model-34018


----------



## Wolfsbora

The MPS 400 is great for less restriction, just don't use the built in thermometer. It is off by quite a bit according to quite a few reliable sources.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wolfsbora*
> 
> The MPS 400 is great for less restriction, just don't use the built in thermometer. It is off by quite a bit according to quite a few reliable sources.


Oh Yeah...All MPS devices are like that in my experience. The temp feature is simply not reliable. Is not only been off since that could be in theory be corrected by an offset the problem is the variance in it (how it fluctuates). I have fill level sensor in a reservoir, several MPS 400 and D5s that are MPS.... Better off with a simple end plug or pass through style of thermistor. I have good experiences with both aquacomputer and bitspower water temp.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LandonAaron*
> 
> So I was looking at the accessories for the Aquero and I think I am going to get this flow meter:
> 
> 
> 
> and this filter to start with.
> 
> 
> 
> On the filter though I am a little confused about the mounting mechanism if I want to be able to view the filter from outside my case. Could I cut a hole in my side panel, then mount the silver frame piece to the oustide of the case hiding the edges of the hole, with the filter then on the inside of the case.
> 
> So from outside to inside it would go Silver Frame>Side Panel>Filter.
> 
> Cutting a hole of approximately this shape and size?


iirc the center is 40mm fan ( i could be wrong ) the mounting is 80mm fan you can buy a mount for 120mm

http://shop.aquacomputer.de/product_info.php?products_id=2530


----------



## Swuell

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> That is one of the ModMyToys models
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/modmytoys-4-pin-pwm-power-distribution-pcb-8-way-block.html
> 
> They are cheap DIY boards so don't come with any cables. If you wanted to use separate power input for fan controlling then you would just need a cable like the ones that come with the Phobya boards. They are 4pin PWM female with two wires leading to a molex plug and the other two to 4pin PWM female.
> 
> 
> 
> Otherwise you just use 4pin PWM female to female cables like they list in the link. The Aquaero can easily power the fans itself and makes for less wiring.
> 
> I haven't seen the cable you would need available separately so you would need to make your own.
> If you can't, or don't want to, do that then these ones have power input but are much larger and more expensive.
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/modmytoys-4-pin-pwm-low-profile-power-distribution-pcb-8-way-block.html
> 
> For a powered PWM splitter I much prefer the Silverstone model. Its compact, the connections are flat and comes with the cables needed.
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/silverstone-cpf04-1-to-8-pwm-fan-fub-black.html


Ohh thank you so much!


----------



## Costas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> but the flow meter is restrictive.


Its restriction is not really worth worrying about - although many other flowmeters fare much worse.

According to Martin's testing the Aquacomputer Hi Flow flowmeter came out as one of the best flowmeters he has tested. https://martinsliquidlab.wordpress.com/2012/01/21/aquacomputer-water-high-flow-sensor-meter/

Restriction wise it is about 1/4 of a typical cpu block - so not really all that restrictive.

It is also the most accurate flowmeter he tested that does not require any major form of calibration - unlike the MPS series of flowmeters.


----------



## bkvamme

Hi all,

I will be adding a Aquaero 5 LT to my build soon, and just wanted to check if there is something really bad I have overlooked. I have done a fair bit of research, and I am fairly confidident that there is nothing wrong, but it doesn't hurt to be certain.

Shoppinglist:

Aquaero 5 LT
1x AC in-line temperature sensor (http://shop.aquacomputer.de/product_info.php?products_id=2293)
2x AC flat temperature sensor (http://shop.aquacomputer.de/product_info.php?products_id=1621)
1x mps flow 400 (http://shop.aquacomputer.de/product_info.php?products_id=2900)

Current build:
Swiftech MCP350 w/ PWM
3x NB-BlackSilent PRO PL-2 120mm
2x NB-BlackSilent PRO PK-2 140mm
2x Prolimatech Ultra Sleek Vortex 120mm
1x Arctic F8 80mm

I will be running 2x 140mm and 2x 120mm BSPs on one channel (intake) and 1x 120mm BSP and 2x PSUV on another channel (exhaust). The 80mm will run on the third channel

This adds up to:
Intake channel: 5,04W
Exhaust channel: 4,32W
Rear cooling channel: 1,92W

Which, according to the manual should be perfectly fine without the heatsink.

According to the first post, the MCP350 can be controlled from the Fan 4 (PWM) port.
The mps-flow 400 will be connected to the Aquabus port.

Is there any problems with this setup?


----------



## LandonAaron

I would get the passive heatsink just to be safe.


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bkvamme*
> 
> This adds up to:
> ...
> Which, according to the manual should be perfectly fine without the heatsink.
> 
> According to the first post, the MCP350 can be controlled from the Fan 4 (PWM) port.


Whether you need the heatsink is less about wattage and more about how much you want to undervolt your fans. The slower you run them, the hotter the AQ5. Since you mention PL2 and PK2 they are slow anyway. I'm guessing you aren't going to undervolt them much. So it's probably okay without the heatsink.

The first post mentions the MCP35X, which is a PWM pump. The MCP350 is not a PWM pump, so would need voltage control (9-12V). In that case, you can put the Prolimatech USVs on channel 4 instead.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Costas*
> 
> Its restriction is not really worth worrying about - although many other flowmeters fare much worse.
> 
> According to Martin's testing the Aquacomputer Hi Flow flowmeter came out as one of the best flowmeters he has tested. https://martinsliquidlab.wordpress.com/2012/01/21/aquacomputer-water-high-flow-sensor-meter/
> 
> Restriction wise it is about 1/4 of a typical cpu block - so not really all that restrictive.
> 
> It is also the most accurate flowmeter he tested that does not require any major form of calibration - unlike the MPS series of flowmeters.


Did you bother to look at the tests I linked? Did you tested yourself the amount of restriction the hi flow gives? I did and Fast_fate did too. My information was accurate whether or not you think the amount of restriction is worth worrying or not is up to you or to anyone reading the info. Is not 1/4 of the restriction of a modern block mate. When Martin did the test blocks were more restrictive to begin with. Today the hi flow equals in restriction some blocks and in other cases is about 1/2 of the cpu block restriction. I said it have a similar restriction to MIPS block and to me that is simply unacceptable on a flow meter, to restrict your flow to the point of a cpu block (granted that the MIPS block is the king of the hill in terms of smaller restriction). here are the numbers from FF tests. As you can see is even more restrictive that some cpu blocks:

http://www.overclock.net/t/1501978/ocn-community-water-cooling-test-thread#post_22568401




http://www.overclock.net/t/1501978/ocn-community-water-cooling-test-thread/20#post_22581389


----------



## bkvamme

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> Whether you need the heatsink is less about wattage and more about how much you want to undervolt your fans. The slower you run them, the hotter the AQ5. Since you mention PL2 and PK2 they are slow anyway. I'm guessing you aren't going to undervolt them much. So it's probably okay without the heatsink.
> 
> The first post mentions the MCP35X, which is a PWM pump. The MCP350 is not a PWM pump, so would need voltage control (9-12V). In that case, you can put the Prolimatech USVs on channel 4 instead.


Ah, I will most likely run them at full throttle most of the time yes.

You are completely right about the MCP350. The fan header is indeed a tachometer. Annoying that they cannot agree on one color for the cables, blue cables have typically been PWM control for my fans. Can I just crimp the power cables onto fan pins and run the entire thing off the A5LT?

The Prolimatech USVs are supposed to be pretty quiet, but you never know with these slim fans. PWM control is nice in any case.

I will probably go for the heatsink if the pump will be powered from the A5LT. It can be quite hot in my office, so it will definitly be nice to have some headroom.


----------



## gamerking

hello all
i have a some questions im going to be getting a MO-RA3 9x120 , can i just run a pwm fan cable/molex for the fan splitter back to the pc to my aquaero 5 lt or do i move it to my external rad the aquaero. if i have to move the aquaero to my rad is the cable i linked below will that work .

i would be moving it about 3+ feet away from my pc im not 100% about where its going its either attached to my wall or on my floor somewhere but its going to be about 3 feet away . i also have a extra psu laying around if just getting the molex from that is just easier to the rad for voltage reasons.

has anyone ran 8-9 vardars 2200rpm on a swiftech splitter since i know if the pwm signal gets too weak im stuck with max rpm fans.
thanks for any help


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



http://www.performance-pcs.com/pwm-extension-cable-custom-length-sleeved.html
http://www.performance-pcs.com/phobya-4pin-pwm-extension-30cm-black.html
http://www.performance-pcs.com/molex-extension-cable-custom-length-sleeved.html
http://www.performance-pcs.com/aquacomputer-aquabus-cable-4-pin.html


----------



## Costas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> whether or not you think the amount of restriction is worth worrying or not is up to you or to anyone reading the info.


I guess what I was trying to highlight is for the average user the restriction should not really be an issue so were sort of splitting hairs...









As far as flow meter options for users there are not many good ones - if we look at what is commonly utilised by many the hi flow variant compares quite well. If we compare with the MPS variety, restriction is improved but accuracy suffers somewhat unless the user has a means of calibrating the flow meter which most do not.


----------



## bkvamme

So, is there any conclusion on this?

Is the recommeded choice the MPS Flow 400, or a High Flow + a seperate temperature sensor?


----------



## electro2u

If you have space for it get the mps 400. I cannot recomm3nd the hi flow meter as ive had 2 of them that were very noisy (they both clicked constantly).

I dont care much about getting an accurate GPM reading as i do just a simple reference point so i can see if its slowing over time, so i use a bitspower flow meter /w temp sensor since its small. i calibrated it against a hi flow meter and it works fine for me.


----------



## bkvamme

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> If you have space for it get the mps 400. I cannot recomm3nd the hi flow meter as ive had 2 of them that were very noisy (they both clicked constantly).
> 
> I dont care much about getting an accurate GPM reading as i do just a simple reference point so i can see if its slowing over time, so i use a bitspower flow meter /w temp sensor since its small. i calibrated it against a hi flow meter and it works fine for me.


Hi,
I don't have very much space, but I would imagine that the MPS would fit just fine. Clicking noises are far more annoying for me, so I think I'll go for that. The flow meter will be hidden away in any case, so I'd rather go for the MPS.

I'll try out the temp sensor with the normal in line temperature sensor just to calibrate the one in the MPS if it's not accurate. The normal in line AC temp sensor is accurate yes?


----------



## Costas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bkvamme*
> 
> I'll try out the temp sensor with the normal in line temperature sensor just to calibrate the one in the MPS if it's not accurate. The normal in line AC temp sensor is accurate yes?


The MPS built-in temp sensor is slow to respond as the sensor itself is not directly immersed in the coolant. You are better off using one of the more common short stubby G1/4" probe type sensors which basically sit in the coolant. http://www.overclockers.co.uk/popup_image.php?prodid=WC-264-BP


----------



## bkvamme

Okay, excellent. I'll just use a couple of t fittings to do that them, as I don't have any spare ports elsewhere.

Thank you very much for your help!


----------



## Dagamus NM

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Some people have their desk or work area set up sort of left handed where the PC is on their left.
> 
> If you have a nice build with a lot of eye candy you like to look at, having a reverse setup puts it so the mobo / window side is visible with the pc to your left.
> 
> If you have some of those high end acrylic GPU blocks, it also then has them facing up so they are visible, instead of just looking at the backplates.
> 
> Darlene


So after some thought and planning I couldn't make up my mind regarding whether or not to go regular or reverse so I went with one of each. I opted for the pedestals for each and 120mm top with the plate thing that will hold my AC combo setup. That takes care of two of them, the third will be used somewhere and after that I will not use them anymore.

I opened up one of my AQ6 XT's and found that the faceplate had fallen off. I tried putting it back on but it just falls out. Nothing wrong with the fitment, but the adhesive just doesn't hold them on. I put a little crazy glue around the edge to put it back on but the fumes left a residue on the inner surface of the plexiglass or whatever it is. Meh, it will be changed to black anyway.

@IT Diva what paint do you use for your builds? I know House of Kolor is highly recommended but am unsure of a retailer.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dagamus NM*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Some people have their desk or work area set up sort of left handed where the PC is on their left.
> 
> If you have a nice build with a lot of eye candy you like to look at, having a reverse setup puts it so the mobo / window side is visible with the pc to your left.
> 
> If you have some of those high end acrylic GPU blocks, it also then has them facing up so they are visible, instead of just looking at the backplates.
> 
> Darlene
> 
> 
> 
> So after some thought and planning I couldn't make up my mind regarding whether or not to go regular or reverse so I went with one of each. I opted for the pedestals for each and 120mm top with the plate thing that will hold my AC combo setup. That takes care of two of them, the third will be used somewhere and after that I will not use them anymore.
> 
> I opened up one of my AQ6 XT's and found that the faceplate had fallen off. I tried putting it back on but it just falls out. Nothing wrong with the fitment, but the adhesive just doesn't hold them on. I put a little crazy glue around the edge to put it back on but the fumes left a residue on the inner surface of the plexiglass or whatever it is. Meh, it will be changed to black anyway.
> 
> @*IT Diva what paint do you use for your builds?* I know House of Kolor is highly recommended but am unsure of a retailer.
Click to expand...

Whatever matches best , , , , ,









On the serious side, I'm here on a small Caribbean island without a lot of choice or selection compared to most people.

We have one business here that has a pretty good selection of custom automotive finishes and can mix to match a color, but it has to be urethane.

The closest thing I have to a paint both is my front porch, so whenever possible, I try to stay with white cases that I can match with white lacquer, either Rustoleum or Ace's, because it dries so quickly as to effectively preclude air born dust.

Finding a match to Caselabs gunmetal is next on my list, no doubt I'll need to touch up around a hole or paint a rad or something once it gets here and I start working with it.

Darlene


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Whatever matches best , , , , ,
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On the serious side, I'm here on a small Caribbean island without a lot of choice or selection compared to most people.
> 
> We have one business here that has a pretty good selection of custom automotive finishes and can mix to match a color, but it has to be urethane.
> 
> The closest thing I have to a paint both is my front porch, so whenever possible, I try to stay with white cases that I can match with white lacquer, either Rustoleum or Ace's, because it dries so quickly as to effectively preclude air born dust.
> 
> Finding a match to Caselabs gunmetal is next on my list, no doubt I'll need to touch up around a hole or paint a rad or something once it gets here and I start working with it.
> 
> Darlene


Don´t have the case yet Darlene (I ordered a black/gunmetal s5 a month ago) but judging from the cables I do have and are suppose to be a close match to gunmetal a good starting point is to search for a graphite color on can. I do the same. My paint booth is my barbecue place on my backyard...


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Whatever matches best , , , , ,
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On the serious side, I'm here on a small Caribbean island without a lot of choice or selection compared to most people.
> 
> We have one business here that has a pretty good selection of custom automotive finishes and can mix to match a color, but it has to be urethane.
> 
> The closest thing I have to a paint both is my front porch, so whenever possible, I try to stay with white cases that I can match with white lacquer, either Rustoleum or Ace's, because it dries so quickly as to effectively preclude air born dust.
> 
> Finding a match to Caselabs gunmetal is next on my list, no doubt I'll need to touch up around a hole or paint a rad or something once it gets here and I start working with it.
> 
> Darlene
> 
> 
> 
> Don´t have the case yet Darlene (I ordered a black/gunmetal s5 a month ago) but judging from the cables I do have and are suppose to be a close match to gunmetal a good starting point is to search for a graphite color on can. I do the same. My paint booth is my barbecue place on my backyard...
Click to expand...

I ordered a lot of accessory items when I ordered the case, pretty much the same bits as I had for my white TH10A, so that I could do some mix & match to create a complimentary 2 tone pair. . . one reverse, one standard.

The accessories are all here now, so I have a much better idea of what the gunmetal color really looks like.

Some of the pics in the threads made it look a lot lighter than it actually is, so I was really happy to see that it was more of a charcoal than Navy ship gray.

Should be another 4 ish weeks wait on the case









Darlene


----------



## Dagamus NM

4 weeks? I guess they do take awhile. I asked for mine to be in primer gray so maybe they are able to send them out right away if they don't have to paint. My purchaser email me and told me that they had already shipped.


----------



## Newtocooling

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> would still be able to read RPM i must ask again
> 
> where are you looking for the rpm
> 
> ( Unit LCD, windows/aquasuite, hwinfo )


I'm sorry Mega Man I just realized you were trying help me with my RPM problem on my pump. I think I went right to the message that had my quote in it, and totally missed your question to me. I was trying to find the RPM both on the Aquaero display and in Aquasuite. I had to move the pump from fan header 3 to fan header 2 and the RPM finally showed up. Sorry if I seemed to just ignore your question.


----------



## LandonAaron

So I was going to get an Aquero 5 LT, to control my 9 radiator fans on my MO-RA3, but I realized I would have to split up the fans across 3 channels to stay within the Aquero's specs. The Aquero 5 has a maximum output power of 19.8W or 1.65A per channel, and my Aerocool Dead Silence 140mm fans are 4.68W / 0.39A per fan so 42 watts total.

The PowerAdjust 3 on the other hand says it can handle up to 36 Watts with the passive heatsink. How bad of an idea would it be trying to put all 9 of these fans on one power adjust 3 (42 watts)?


----------



## Ironsmack

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LandonAaron*
> 
> So I was going to get an Aquero 5 LT, to control my 9 radiator fans on my MO-RA3, but I realized I would have to split up the fans across 3 channels to stay within the Aquero's specs. The Aquero 5 has a maximum output power of 19.8W or 1.65A per channel, and my Aerocool Dead Silence 140mm fans are 4.68W / 0.39A per fan so 42 watts total.
> 
> The PowerAdjust 3 on the other hand says it can handle up to 36 Watts with the passive heatsink. How bad of an idea would it be trying to put all 9 of these fans on one power adjust 3 (42 watts)?


It wont be. But your limited to the fan splitter you choose. Since the most ive seen is 8 fan splitters.

Also, it depends on the splitters your using whether they're high quality and can safely carry the current.

At the moment, im using Darkside P/P splitters on all my fans and my AP15's are humming along well below 500 RPM's.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LandonAaron*
> 
> So I was going to get an Aquero 5 LT, to control my 9 radiator fans on my MO-RA3, but I realized I would have to split up the fans across 3 channels to stay within the Aquero's specs. The Aquero 5 has a maximum output power of 19.8W or 1.65A per channel, and my Aerocool Dead Silence 140mm fans are 4.68W / 0.39A per fan so 42 watts total.
> 
> The PowerAdjust 3 on the other hand says it can handle up to 36 Watts with the passive heatsink. How bad of an idea would it be trying to put all 9 of these fans on one power adjust 3 (42 watts)?


get 2 poweradjust 3 then. That way you will be within specs. Or kick the bucket and get an Aq6 direct from Aquacomputer. Euro x Dolar and Euro x GBP is kind of favorable right now. You can get an AQ6 for around US$ 150 right now. It used to be US$220.


----------



## Dagamus NM

That or just run three fans through the 5LT and the other six through the PA3


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Newtocooling*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> would still be able to read RPM i must ask again
> 
> where are you looking for the rpm
> 
> ( Unit LCD, windows/aquasuite, hwinfo )
> 
> 
> 
> I'm sorry Mega Man I just realized you were trying help me with my RPM problem on my pump. I think I went right to the message that had my quote in it, and totally missed your question to me. I was trying to find the RPM both on the Aquaero display and in Aquasuite. I had to move the pump from fan header 3 to fan header 2 and the RPM finally showed up. Sorry if I seemed to just ignore your question.
Click to expand...

It is n p just glad you got it taken care of


----------



## Newtocooling

I've went over most of the posts today since Aquacomputer released their version of a D5 PWM pump, and I see some of you have since picked one of these up. I'm not seeing any negative or positve feedback about them though. So I'm wondering if you guys that have them are you happy, or frustrated by your purchase? I just picked up two today from the German Aquatuning Store, and I'm hoping I made the right purchase.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Newtocooling*
> 
> I've went over most of the posts today since Aquacomputer released their version of a D5 PWM pump, and I see some of you have since picked one of these up. I'm not seeing any negative or positve feedback about them though. So I'm wondering if you guys that have them are you happy, or frustrated by your purchase? I just picked up two today from the German Aquatuning Store, and I'm hoping I made the right purchase.


very good pump and works flawless with the Aquaero. It is a particularly attractive model since is one of the cheapest d5 available. Using 4 of it in the Chessboard build.


----------



## Newtocooling

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> very good pump and works flawless with the Aquaero. It i a particularly attractive model since is one of the cheapest d5 available. Using 4 of it in the Chessboard build.


Thanks for the feedback, looks are not that important it will be going in a Bitspower housing with a clear acrylic top.


----------



## DewMan

As I sit here waiting for my new case, still 3 weeks out, I've got a question that came to mind after too much caffeine and not enough sleep.









Since the A6 can control color on the correct type of LEDs, Is there a way to set up the color to morph as the temps change?

I'm thinking it would be functional (and cool







) to have the color of the LEDs change on my bay res as the temps rise from white (room temp) through blue (normal running temps) to red (Danger! Danger Will Robinson!) if the temps got too high or a pump/fan failure event.

My Koolance RP-452X2 Rev 2.0 bay res has holes in the plexi plate for 4 LEDs. If I can figure out how to get the color change LEDs to fit.

I know zero about color change LEDs other than that they exist and I can use the A6 Aquasuite to control them. I'm guessing they're larger than standard LEDs?

I'm guessing I'm not the first have this idea so If anyone know of any resources on this subject I'd be appreciative.

Thanks for your time everyone.


----------



## Newtocooling

I use the Aquacomputer single LED and you can create a controller in Aquasuite for it to change colors for any temp source you have in your system.


----------



## DewMan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Newtocooling*
> 
> I use the Aquacomputer single LED and you can create a controller in Aquasuite for it to change colors for any temp source you have in your system.


Thanks for the response Newtocooling. You've pointed me in the right direction... It's much appreciated.









It appears I need some of these RGB Lighting Modules for that purpose. Does the A6 have enough juice to power 4 of them if I use a splitter? Is there a way to get alternate power for them if not?


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DewMan*
> 
> Thanks for the response Newtocooling. You've pointed me in the right direction... It's much appreciated.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It appears I need some of these RGB Lighting Modules for that purpose. Does the A6 have enough juice to power 4 of them if I use a splitter? Is there a way to get alternate power for them if not?


Need to ask shoggy this!!


----------



## WHIMington

Say, if I mod my PWM spliter to take power directly from my AQ6, will the controler be reading total power consumption only or is there a way to make the controler to calculate the average power consumption of each fan on the same bus?

Also for some reason I cannot get my PWM fan to get the same response curve that they used to have with both Gigabyte SIV program fan calibration and Asus Fan Xpert, anyone have the same experience?


----------



## Swuell

I was wondering what the best way to put the temperature sensors were--with what tape--and where would you put it, cpu, gpu, etc?


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DewMan*
> 
> As I sit here waiting for my new case, still 3 weeks out, I've got a question that came to mind after too much caffeine and not enough sleep.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Since the A6 can control color on the correct type of LEDs, Is there a way to set up the color to morph as the temps change?
> 
> I'm thinking it would be functional (and cool
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ) to have the color of the LEDs change on my bay res as the temps rise from white (room temp) through blue (normal running temps) to red (Danger! Danger Will Robinson!) if the temps got too high or a pump/fan failure event.
> 
> My Koolance RP-452X2 Rev 2.0 bay res has holes in the plexi plate for 4 LEDs. If I can figure out how to get the color change LEDs to fit.
> 
> I know zero about color change LEDs other than that they exist and I can use the A6 Aquasuite to control them. I'm guessing they're larger than standard LEDs?
> 
> I'm guessing I'm not the first have this idea so If anyone know of any resources on this subject I'd be appreciative.
> 
> Thanks for your time everyone.


Yes and no, ... Maybe.

The Aquaero RGB is a 5mm. A controller can be configured to change as temps change with no problem, the only thing is that there is a fixed transition range of colours that must be progressed through in order. I don't have my system in front of me and can't remember if that will fit the colors you mentioned exactly but you will of course be able to do something very similar.
For multiple smaller RGB LED's to put in the front of the res you will need a Fabwerk.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DewMan*
> 
> Thanks for the response Newtocooling. You've pointed me in the right direction... It's much appreciated.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It appears I need some of these RGB Lighting Modules for that purpose. Does the A6 have enough juice to power 4 of them if I use a splitter? Is there a way to get alternate power for them if not?


No, the Aquaero can only power one. Trying to add more could cause permanent damage. This is the reason that Fabwerk was created to allow powering and controlling more.


----------



## DewMan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> Yes and no, ... Maybe.
> 
> The Aquaero RGB is a 5mm. A controller can be configured to change as temps change with no problem, the only thing is that there is a fixed transition range of colours that must be progressed through in order. I don't have my system in front of me and can't remember if that will fit the colors you mentioned exactly but you will of course be able to do something very similar.
> For multiple smaller RGB LED's to put in the front of the res you will need a Fabwerk.
> No, the Aquaero can only power one. Trying to add more could cause permanent damage. This is the reason that Fabwerk was created to allow powering and controlling more.


You Rock Jakusonfire!









After my last post I was researching some more and came across the Farbwerk. I'm now debating on whether I really need more than one LED. I definitely "want" more than one but I'm not sure I want to spend what it would cost to put in more than one. Between the USD$9x4 LEDs, the $19 mount and of course the $33 farbwerk(usb).







I'll start with one and see if it gives enough light.

*But it could be a moot point if I can't figure out how to fit a 5mm RGB LED into the res's 3mm holes.







Anyone know if here's a 3mm alternative to the Aquatuning 5mm RGB LED? I'd rather not enlarge the hole if I don't have to for structural integrity reasons of the panel.

*


----------



## Rick5

Has anyone used this equipment (recently) on a hackintosh? I know the software/monitoring suite won't work....but is the pump/fan controllers still usable? If so...other than the software...what are the drawbacks? Recommendations? THANKS,

RICK5


----------



## Costas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rick5*
> 
> Has anyone used this equipment (recently) on a hackintosh? I know the software/monitoring suite won't work....but is the pump/fan controllers still usable? If so...other than the software...what are the drawbacks? Recommendations? THANKS,
> 
> RICK5


Yes you may use it as a standalone device. In fact the majority of variables are all accessible via the front controls. It is more tedious to program it via the front panel due to having to navigate through various menus and the like but it can be done.

I regularly use a 6XT on my test bench (testing pumps/flowmeters and the like) with no PC - Just apply power and it is ready to roll.

Only two drawbacks that immediately come to mind is that you cannot upgrade the firmware unless you use the Aquasuite software and if you want to use an Aquabus accessories then these need to be setup via the Aquasuite software as well.


----------



## Rick5

Good to know...thanks....one other question. If I had a dual boot system OS X and Windows, could the accessories be set up under the windows system and then still be functional after a reboot into OS X ... or is the software suite required to be running at all times for the accessories to be functional?

TIA

Rick


----------



## Costas

Yeh - Good question.

Once you define an Aquabus ID for the accessory in Windows (Accessory is connected via USB to PC at this stage to assign ID with the Aquasuite sw) you can then move it over to the Aquabus connection on the Aquaero and use it directly from the Aquaero.

Basically an Aquabus device needs to be assigned a unique ID before it is connected to the Aquabus port on the Aquaero and this is done via USB in the first instance.

You do not necessarily need to use Aquabus compatible devices as the majority of pumps etc are not Aquabus capable anyway.


----------



## iCrap

Software question - would it be possible to set the power to a fan output on a timer? I am controller an RGB strip strip with a fan port and want to turn it off and on via a time (night and day..)
Also adding an option for the power output would be nice too.


----------



## Swuell

Could anybody help me with an little issue -- unless it's really not an issue and I'm just reading it wrong (?) -- but I have my swiftech h220x pump hooked directly into the aquaero 6 which seems fine and from what I can tell is reporting RPMS -- also at one point it was reporting the l/h for flow -- but that was before I set the input to PWM in the aquasuite and updated to the latest firmware -- since it was required -- so now I just wanted to know if it is actually working correctly since the PUMP layout section/module on the aquasuite software shows nothing... :|. While the input that I have it connected to still shows the same rpms as fans (which I'm unsure EXACTLY which one I had it plugged but I'm pretty sure 85% I know which one it is) so just wanted to know if this is the correct readout?

Is the pump section of the aquasuite module limited to usb d5 pumps or somethin?


----------



## electro2u

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Swuell*
> 
> Could anybody help me with an little issue -- unless it's really not an issue and I'm just reading it wrong (?) -- but I have my swiftech h220x pump hooked directly into the aquaero 6 which seems fine and from what I can tell is reporting RPMS -- also at one point it was reporting the l/h for flow -- but that was before I set the input to PWM in the aquasuite and updated to the latest firmware -- since it was required -- so now I just wanted to know if it is actually working correctly since the PUMP layout section/module on the aquasuite software shows nothing... :|. While the input that I have it connected to still shows the same rpms as fans (which I'm unsure EXACTLY which one I had it plugged but I'm pretty sure 85% I know which one it is) so just wanted to know if this is the correct readout?
> 
> Is the pump section of the aquasuite module limited to usb d5 pumps or somethin?


only the AC pwm pump and AC aquabus d5 work natively on the aquero And only aquabus d5s work with the pump section. Pwm pumps and 12v pumps have to be controlled via fan channels. Technically you can mod a regular pwm pump to work with the fan channels also.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Swuell*
> 
> Could anybody help me with an little issue -- unless it's really not an issue and I'm just reading it wrong (?) -- but I have my swiftech h220x pump hooked directly into the aquaero 6 which seems fine and from what I can tell is reporting RPMS -- also at one point it was reporting the l/h for flow -- but that was before I set the input to PWM in the aquasuite and updated to the latest firmware -- since it was required -- so now I just wanted to know if it is actually working correctly since the PUMP layout section/module on the aquasuite software shows nothing... :|. While the input that I have it connected to still shows the same rpms as fans (which I'm unsure EXACTLY which one I had it plugged but I'm pretty sure 85% I know which one it is) so just wanted to know if this is the correct readout?
> 
> Is the pump section of the aquasuite module limited to usb d5 pumps or somethin?


pump tab on aquasuite is for devices connected via Aquabus (aka Aquacomputer pumps). If you have a pwm fan connected to one of the fan headers then that is it. if reports rpm and you can adjust rpm via fan controller then that is all to it. It will not be showed on the pumps tab.

eletro beat me to it


----------



## electro2u

I forgot to mention the lph thing... that might have been because an rpm reading was being plugged into the flow port on the aquaero but you wont get an actual meaningful reading unless you have a compatible flow sensor.


----------



## craftyhack

Hi All, I am in need (or in want I guess) of a good temp, fan, pump monitor/controller, and I was pointed this way, and from what I can tell the A5/A6 is more than what I could ever want and then some! My issue is that this is for an NCase M1 build, meaning I have no 5.25 bays at all, therefore I have to go with an internal version. While the 5 LT looks great, after reading about the A6, I would prefer that model, specifically because of its support for up to 4 PWM fans (I have 4 Noctua NF-F12 industrialPPC 3000 PWM fans to control), and given the location where I must put the controller in my case will probably not have great airflow, I am concerned about using the model that uses resistance vs. PWM to control fan speed, even with the heatsink. Plus I really don't want another prodigious heat source in my case if I can help it.

So, I have seen several references to being able to take the screen off of the A6, but I haven't seen anyone actually showing that they have done it. I found the Super Monsta build where Aqua Computer provided an A6 LT, but that doesn't really tell me if an end user could easily do this.

Has anyone successfully taken off the screen off of their A6 Pro/XT? If so, is this reversible, i.e. is anything broken in the process(ribbon cables cut, etc.), or is the screen easy to reinstall afterwards? I am thinking specifically about getting an XT, but if this only works for the Pro, then I would be OK with downgrading.

The reason this matters to me is that I would like to be able to reuse this with the display in the future on another build, I go through builds once a year. It will be pretty hard for me to swallow spending $250 on this and then breaking it when trying to suit it to my needs.

I would install it with the display still attached, but I don't think it would fit, it looks like the 5LT barely fits once power, fan, sensor cables etc. are installed(another NCase M1 build I found where someone used the 5LT). Given the stuff already in my build, I don't have much room left in the M1...

Thanks in advance for any help!


----------



## Mega Man

excessively easy and easily reversed. take off the 4 front screws and then front cover, then take off the stand offs ( same place as the screws were )

you can slave an aq 6 this way pics taken with my phone

will upload in a min


----------



## craftyhack

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> excessively easy and easily reversed. take off the 4 front screws and then front cover, then take off the stand offs ( same place as the screws were )
> 
> you can slave an aq 6 this way pics taken with my phone
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> will upload in a min


Thanks for the answer and pics, repped!

BTW, I just installed these Noctua iPPC 3000's, and without a fan control, these are LOOOUUUD







. I said in my OP I WANTED a fan controller, must restate that now again as NEED







.

Thanks again!


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *craftyhack*
> 
> Thanks for the answer and pics, repped!
> 
> BTW, I just installed these Noctua iPPC 3000's, and without a fan control, these are LOOOUUUD
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . I said in my OP I WANTED a fan controller, must restate that now again as NEED
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> 
> Thanks again!


Here we go. Get it from aquacomputer directly it will cost you 151 euros (without VAT). Way cheaper that in US. The link is for the blue leds version:

http://shop.aquacomputer.de/product_info.php?products_id=3267

As Mega Man pointed just take the screen and flaceplate out. Perhaps you can mod you case to have it facing up top or sideways and then you can keep the screen.


----------



## craftyhack

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Here we go. Get it from aquacomputer directly it will cost you 151 euros (without VAT). Way cheaper that in US. The link is for the blue leds version:
> 
> http://shop.aquacomputer.de/product_info.php?products_id=3267
> 
> As Mega Man pointed just take the screen and flaceplate out. Perhaps you can mod you case to have it facing up top or sideways and then you can keep the screen.


Thanks! Looks like the A6XTs are all out of stock, lead time is 30 days, and then shipping by DHL adds another 14 days. I am the guy that is working on the Titan X that had spaces between EK backplate and the GDDR5 modules, so I ordered $95 worth of some Fujipoly Ultra Extreme pads(which are now on my desk) to replace all of the stock EK pads, and wanted to measure the difference. 45 days is a long time to wait as I am not OCing or gaming until I get this sorted, oh well :/. Also, the DHL shipping adds $40 USD, and DHL international shipping I have read many horror stories about







. They have UPS as an option, for $75USD. They do have the A6Pro model in stock though! Decisions, decisions, I will sort it all out shortly







.

I am indeed looking at if there is a way to mod the side panel and have it fit... it will be tricky though.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *craftyhack*
> 
> Thanks! Looks like the A6XTs are all out of stock, lead time is 30 days, and then shipping by DHL adds another 14 days. I am the guy that is working on the Titan X that had spaces between EK backplate and the GDDR5 modules, so I ordered $95 worth of some Fujipoly Ultra Extreme pads(which are now on my desk) to replace all of the stock EK pads, and wanted to measure the difference. 45 days is a long time to wait as I am not OCing or gaming until I get this sorted, oh well :/. Also, the DHL shipping adds $40 USD, and DHL international shipping I have read many horror stories about
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . They have UPS as an option, for $75USD. They do have the A6Pro model in stock though! Decisions, decisions, I will sort it all out shortly
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> 
> I am indeed looking at if there is a way to mod the side panel and have it fit... it will be tricky though.


Shipping is pretty fast and information on availability on the Aq site is inaccurate. Ask Shoggy the question of whether or not they have the Aq 6 XT (either red or blue leds) in stock for shipping. He will check the inventory for you. Just to give you an idea on two orders now I got the goods (including an Aq 6 xt) on my doorstep here in Brazil just 5 days after ordering....The Aq was listed as out of stock when I order and they did have some in stock actually so...


----------



## craftyhack

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Shipping is pretty fast and information on availability on the Aq site is inaccurate. Ask Shoggy the question of whether or not they have the Aq 6 XT (either red or blue leds) in stock for shipping. He will check the inventory for you. Just to give you an idea on two orders now I got the goods (including an Aq 6 xt) on my doorstep here in Brazil just 5 days after ordering....The Aq was listed as out of stock when I order and they did have some in stock actually so...


Excellent, thanks! Looks like that will be my only option(except for eBay I guess) as the only US distributor I know of is now also out of stock on the XTs.


----------



## craftyhack

Well I agonized for a while, and figured I am already almost "all-in" regarding parts for this build, so why not, I ordered the following from Aqua Computer's store, including stuff I know isn't necessary (flow meter, extra temp sensors, RGB LED, etc.), but I figure if I am paying a flat $40 for shipping, might as well get all of the options that will fit in my little build







. I do indeed hope it isn't 30 day lead time, I didn't msg Shoggy because it really doesn't matter... I was going to order this either way.

1 x aquaero 6 XT blue USB fan controller, graphic LCD, touch control, IR remote control 151,18 EUR
1 x Flow sensor "high flow" G1/4 for aquaero, aquastream XT ultra and poweradjust 31,85 EUR
2 x Temperature sensor internal/external thread G1/4 for aquaero, aquastream XT and aquaduct 15,10 EUR
1 x Connection cable for flow sensor (for aquaero/aquastream XT Ultra/poweradjust) 2,51 EUR
1 x Passive heat sink for aquaero 6, black 12,52 EUR
1 x RGB illumination module for aquaero 5 and 6 6,64 EUR
1 x Illumination-insert G1/4 incl. gasket 4,12 EUR
4 x Temperature sensor 70 cm for aquaero, aquastream XT and aquaduct 16,76 EUR

Now the waiting begins...


----------



## Driftergtr2501

Does anyone have a graphic on the correct way to setup multiple fans on the Aquaero 6. I am running 16 Noctua NF-F12 's in my 900D, and I'm looking to upgrade to the Caselabs STh10 soon which will require up to 25 fans based on some early calculations. According to Noctua the maximum input power of each fan is 0.6 Watts So I'm looking at 15 watts total if my math is correct. All the same I've ordered 3 Power adjusts just in case , since I want to run my D5 pumps as well.
I've ordered the Aquacomputer D5 Pump Motors with PWM Input and Speed Signal, and they shouldn't have any compatibility issues with the Aquaero as far as I know.

TL;DR . Buying a new case and fan's Want to make sure I hook everything up correctly the first time.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Driftergtr2501*
> 
> Does anyone have a graphic on the correct way to setup multiple fans on the Aquaero 6. I am running 16 Noctua NF-F12 's in my 900D, and I'm looking to upgrade to the Caselabs STh10 soon which will require up to 25 fans based on some early calculations. According to Noctua the maximum input power of each fan is 0.6 Watts So I'm looking at 15 watts total if my math is correct. All the same I've ordered 3 Power adjusts just in case , since I want to run my D5 pumps as well.
> I've ordered the Aquacomputer D5 Pump Motors with PWM Input and Speed Signal, and they shouldn't have any compatibility issues with the Aquaero as far as I know.
> 
> TL;DR . Buying a new case and fan's Want to make sure I hook everything up correctly the first time.


you are good to go with Aq 6 in regard to fans. It can handle 2.65 A if memory still serves and you will have something around 1.25 A with 25 of those fans. Yeah d5 pwm pumps from Aquacomputer can be configures as fans on Aq6 channels. You will need splitter cables for the fans and pumps. Buy good ones like dazmode where only one terminal will report the rpm.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Driftergtr2501*
> 
> Does anyone have a graphic on the correct way to setup multiple fans on the Aquaero 6. I am running 16 Noctua NF-F12 's in my 900D, and I'm looking to upgrade to the Caselabs STh10 soon which will require up to 25 fans based on some early calculations. According to Noctua the maximum input power of each fan is 0.6 Watts So I'm looking at 15 watts total if my math is correct. All the same I've ordered 3 Power adjusts just in case , since I want to run my D5 pumps as well.
> I've ordered the Aquacomputer D5 Pump Motors with PWM Input and Speed Signal, and they shouldn't have any compatibility issues with the Aquaero as far as I know.
> 
> TL;DR . Buying a new case and fan's Want to make sure I hook everything up correctly the first time.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Driftergtr2501*
> 
> Does anyone have a graphic on the correct way to setup multiple fans on the Aquaero 6. I am running 16 Noctua NF-F12 's in my 900D, and I'm looking to upgrade to the Caselabs STh10 soon which will require up to 25 fans based on some early calculations. According to Noctua the maximum input power of each fan is 0.6 Watts So I'm looking at 15 watts total if my math is correct. All the same I've ordered 3 Power adjusts just in case , since I want to run my D5 pumps as well.
> I've ordered the Aquacomputer D5 Pump Motors with PWM Input and Speed Signal, and they shouldn't have any compatibility issues with the Aquaero as far as I know.
> 
> TL;DR . Buying a new case and fan's Want to make sure I hook everything up correctly the first time.
> 
> 
> 
> you are good to go with Aq 6 in regard to fans. It can handle 2.65 A if memory still serves and you will have something around 1.25 A with 25 of those fans. Yeah d5 pwm pumps from Aquacomputer can be configures as fans on Aq6 channels. You will need splitter cables for the fans and pumps. Buy good ones like dazmode where only one terminal will report the rpm.
Click to expand...

Are you using the two D5's in a dual top in a single loop, or are you going to be running dual loops, each with one pump?

If it's a single loop with a dual top, then as mentioned, you'll want to use a PWM splitter so they run off the same channel.

The Swiftech one is also a good one.

If you're running dual loops, then you have the option to run the pumps, each off a separate channel if you want.

In that case you wouldn't need the splitter.

On the fans, can you provide a link . . . .

0.6W translates to 0.05A, . . . . That's just really low, even AP15s are 0.083A, and they are among the lowest around.

Let's make sure we're getting the expected load calculated correctly.

Darlene


----------



## Driftergtr2501

Gabriel and Darline
Here is a link to the fans. That another looked low to me as well. It's my first time with the aquaero and Aquarius stuff. And to be honest the manual is super technical as expected of German engineering, but not always overly clear.
As for my build; I will be going with a single pump, dual loop set up.
3-way SLI on one pump and one for the cpu and chipset.If I could figure out a good way to add in a second set of pumps I would prefer to go dual loop with dual pumps. But I'm using my aqualis pump tops, and the radiator configuration doesn't lend itself well to adding a second pump to either loop. Unless I decide to give up on having a drain our someone has an idea that I haven't thought of.

http://www.noctua.at/main.php?show=productview&products_id=42&lng=en


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Are you using the two D5's in a dual top in a single loop, or are you going to be running dual loops, each with one pump?
> 
> If it's a single loop with a dual top, then as mentioned, you'll want to use a PWM splitter so they run off the same channel.
> 
> The Swiftech one is also a good one.
> 
> If you're running dual loops, then you have the option to run the pumps, each off a separate channel if you want.
> 
> In that case you wouldn't need the splitter.
> 
> On the fans, can you provide a link . . . .
> 
> 0.6W translates to 0.05A, . . . . That's just really low, even AP15s are 0.083A, and they are among the lowest around.
> 
> Let's make sure we're getting the expected load calculated correctly.
> 
> Darlene


I was pretty surprised myself. I had measured max operating current for the 4 Noctua fans here and they are all very low in power consumption. I don't know what the start up boost is though, but max operating power was always lower than the advertised starting power.

As far as Noctua link goes: http://www.noctua.at/main.php?show=productview&products_id=42&lng=en&set=1


----------



## Trestles126

How I mounted my filter on my s8

Make the hole big enough for the black raises housing not the acrylic cover. Pretty easy



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LandonAaron*
> 
> So I was looking at the accessories for the Aquero and I think I am going to get this flow meter:
> 
> 
> 
> and this filter to start with.
> 
> 
> 
> On the filter though I am a little confused about the mounting mechanism if I want to be able to view the filter from outside my case. Could I cut a hole in my side panel, then mount the silver frame piece to the oustide of the case hiding the edges of the hole, with the filter then on the inside of the case.
> 
> So from outside to inside it would go Silver Frame>Side Panel>Filter.
> 
> Cutting a hole of approximately this shape and size?


----------



## Trestles126

I have a question I have 3 radiators 2 360s and one 240. So a total of 8 fans. On my old build I think I had 2 fans into each a6 fan port. Should have no problem putting 3 fans into a splitter into a single aquaero 6 port so ( 3 into port 1 3 into port 2, 2 into port 3 and 2 dark side LeDs strips into port 4)? I have the heat sink on the aquaero 6

I then have my phanteks fan splitter for my 2 case fans. Off my mobo


----------



## superericla

I should have an Aquaero 6 XT coming in the mail today. Completely uncharted territory for me, but it should be fun to learn.


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Trestles126*
> 
> I have a question I have 3 radiators 2 360s and one 240. So a total of 8 fans. On my old build I think I had 2 fans into each a6 fan port. Should have no problem putting 3 fans into a splitter into a single aquaero 6 port so ( 3 into port 1 3 into port 2, 2 into port 3 and 2 dark side LeDs strips into port 4)? I have the heat sink on the aquaero 6
> 
> I then have my phanteks fan splitter for my 2 case fans. Off my mobo


I would put the LED strips on the 12V PWM ports rather than waste a fan header on them. The PWM ports are great for LED strips. Depending on the brand, from memory you can put like 4 30cm strips on each port, for 8 total, or more shorter strips.

I have put up to 10 fans on a single header with no problems at all, and many more has been demonstrated.
3 fans per channel is way under the max power draw limit. A heatsink would not be needed or even do very much at these levels. They are good for protecting the PCB though and the labelling of headers is much improved with them.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Driftergtr2501*
> 
> Gabriel and Darline
> Here is a link to the fans. That another looked low to me as well. It's my first time with the aquaero and Aquarius stuff. And to be honest the manual is super technical as expected of German engineering, but not always overly clear.
> As for my build; I will be going with a single pump, dual loop set up.
> 3-way SLI on one pump and one for the cpu and chipset.If I could figure out a good way to add in a second set of pumps I would prefer to go dual loop with dual pumps. But I'm using my aqualis pump tops, and the radiator configuration doesn't lend itself well to adding a second pump to either loop. Unless I decide to give up on having a drain our someone has an idea that I haven't thought of.
> 
> http://www.noctua.at/main.php?show=productview&products_id=42&lng=en


then the load calculations are correct and will have no problem with that. Since the setup involve dual loop you will have 2 fan channels for the fans. No problem. That is the way I have mine. You will just need to put the fans on two channels with splitters.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Driftergtr2501*
> 
> Gabriel and Darline
> Here is a link to the fans. That another looked low to me as well. It's my first time with the aquaero and Aquarius stuff. And to be honest the manual is super technical as expected of German engineering, but not always overly clear.
> As for my build; I will be going with a single pump, dual loop set up.
> 3-way SLI on one pump and one for the cpu and chipset.If I could figure out a good way to add in a second set of pumps I would prefer to go dual loop with dual pumps. But I'm using my aqualis pump tops, and the radiator configuration doesn't lend itself well to adding a second pump to either loop. Unless I decide to give up on having a drain our someone has an idea that I haven't thought of.
> 
> http://www.noctua.at/main.php?show=productview&products_id=42&lng=en


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Driftergtr2501*
> 
> Gabriel and Darline
> Here is a link to the fans. That another looked low to me as well. It's my first time with the aquaero and Aquarius stuff. And to be honest the manual is super technical as expected of German engineering, but not always overly clear.
> As for my build; I will be going with a single pump, dual loop set up.
> 3-way SLI on one pump and one for the cpu and chipset.If I could figure out a good way to add in a second set of pumps I would prefer to go dual loop with dual pumps. But I'm using my aqualis pump tops, and the radiator configuration doesn't lend itself well to adding a second pump to either loop. Unless I decide to give up on having a drain our someone has an idea that I haven't thought of.
> 
> http://www.noctua.at/main.php?show=productview&products_id=42&lng=en
> 
> 
> 
> then the load calculations are correct and will have no problem with that. Since the setup involve dual loop you will have 2 fan channels for the fans. No problem. That is the way I have mine. You will just need to put the fans on two channels with splitters.
Click to expand...

The fans the poster linked are PWM fans, so the power draw isn't a factor anyway, if he uses a powered splitter.

Even if he does power them from the A6, the spec gives a 50ma current draw, so that's OK as well.

D.


----------



## superericla

Looks like I'm having a few issues with my Aquaero. First off, the panel in front of the screen has a tendency to fall off, and putting it back on triggers one of the function buttons constantly. I've tried changing the sensitivity settings for those keys, with no success. Also, I'm unsure how to set up the IR remote?

Edit: I've fixed the issue with the remote. Apparently it just came with some bad batteries. I've disabled the keys on the aquaero to avoid issue with the function buttons.


----------



## craftyhack

Holy Smokes, the order I placed on Sunday, May 3rd @ 20:29 CDT (aka 01:29 GMT, so technically on May 4th from Aqua's perspective), with a A6XT that was listed as "in production-lead time 30 days"(where every shop I checked is also OOS) along with quite a few other items... and my order status says that it shipped yesterday, Monday, May 4th! There is no tracking number yet (I chose DHL), but dang, that was fast, hopefully not too good to be true







.

Order history:
Date of order: Monday, 04. May 2015

04.05.2015 Pending
04.05.2015 Order being processed
04.05.2015 Order shipped DHL Tracking Nummer: 0

After reading several threads on the Aqua forum about shipping delay issues (which may or may not have been related to production backlog), I was a bit nervous, apparently for no reason







. Once I receive my stuff I will sure to update the Aqua forums with my experience to offset some of the negative ones. Seeing those made me nervous(and of course I didn't see many if any positive ones I remember), so perhaps they do other people as well...

This one was pretty scary, not just the OPs story (terrible!), but many of the folks replying that also had orders that took 4-6 weeks to arrive *after* DHL received the packages. I am optimistically assuming that things have changed in the almost 3 years since that thread.


----------



## DNMock

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *craftyhack*
> 
> Holy Smokes, the order I placed on Sunday, May 3rd @ 20:29 CDT (aka 01:29 GMT, so technically on May 4th from Aqua's perspective), with a A6XT that was listed as "in production-lead time 30 days"(where every shop I checked is also OOS) along with quite a few other items... and my order status says that it shipped yesterday, Monday, May 4th! There is no tracking number yet (I chose DHL), but dang, that was fast, hopefully not too good to be true
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> 
> Order history:
> Date of order: Monday, 04. May 2015
> 
> 04.05.2015 Pending
> 04.05.2015 Order being processed
> 04.05.2015 Order shipped DHL Tracking Nummer: 0
> 
> After reading several threads on the Aqua forum about shipping delay issues (which may or may not have been related to production backlog), I was a bit nervous, apparently for no reason
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Once I receive my stuff I will sure to update the Aqua forums with my experience to offset some of the negative ones. Seeing those made me nervous(and of course I didn't see many if any positive ones I remember), so perhaps they do other people as well...
> 
> This one was pretty scary, not just the OPs story (terrible!), but many of the folks replying that also had orders that took 4-6 weeks to arrive *after* DHL received the packages. I am optimistically assuming that things have changed in the almost 3 years since that thread.


My order shipped 15 days ago and still has a 0 for the tracking number. Gonna guess they don't do tracking number for international shipping from the looks of things. Considering the Dock worker strike in Cali and the craziness in Baltimore, I'd imagine there are a few issues getting stuff shipped into the U.S. atm.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DNMock*
> 
> My order shipped 15 days ago and still has a 0 for the tracking number. Gonna guess they don't do tracking number for international shipping from the looks of things. Considering the Dock worker strike in Cali and the craziness in Baltimore, I'd imagine there are a few issues getting stuff shipped into the U.S. atm.


Sometimes they forget to send you the tracking. Just drop a message on the support or PM Shoggy and he will give you the DHL tracking number.


----------



## DNMock

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Sometimes they forget to send you the tracking. Just drop a message on the support or PM Shoggy and he will give you the DHL tracking number.


That's cool, I'll hit them up in a few days if I don't see it on my door step. Not too worried about it so no need to ask them to do extra work on my behalf assuming it shows up fairly soon.


----------



## Swuell

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> only the AC pwm pump and AC aquabus d5 work natively on the aquero And only aquabus d5s work with the pump section. Pwm pumps and 12v pumps have to be controlled via fan channels. Technically you can mod a regular pwm pump to work with the fan channels also.


EDIT: also you mentioned the l/h was reading properly but its of no use unless I get an actual compatible flow meter and hook i up? I was just suprised it read the flow from my pump at all... :/
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> pump tab on aquasuite is for devices connected via Aquabus (aka Aquacomputer pumps). If you have a pwm fan connected to one of the fan headers then that is it. if reports rpm and you can adjust rpm via fan controller then that is all to it. It will not be showed on the pumps tab.
> 
> eletro beat me to it


Thank you guys for answering. So im gjessing my pump is working cprrectly om the fan channel then(?) but is do I need to RMA since one of my fans is reporting 0 rpm when connected to it even though its working (spinning at 100℅) and if I remember correcrly itnwas reading rpms before but stopped and it still shows 100℅ but just does not show rpm. Is there anyway I could remedy this??

And does anybody have a useful guide for the fan curve on the aquasuite? Im a noob lol.

Thanks again!

EDIT: also do they do replacement on cables because the aquabus cable that came with the package broke... I dont even know how but I had it connected to my motherboard and I was unplugging another fan on the opposite end of the case that wasnt connected to the motherboard or the same side as that cable and when I unplugged the fan I heard a snapping sound--though I know my hand barely brushed the case--but come to find out the aquabus cable snapped at the very end where it connects to the header... Has this happened to anyone else?? This just seems like poor quality control -- didnt even get to use it and it broke.


----------



## Jakusonfire

Aquabus cables are just female to female fan cables.
http://www.performance-pcs.com/modmytoys-4-pin-pwm-female-to-4-pin-female-extension-cable-black-24-sleeved.html

I believe Namron's guide covers setting a curve controller. You can find a link on the first page of the this thread


----------



## Shoggy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *superericla*
> 
> Looks like I'm having a few issues with my Aquaero. First off, the panel in front of the screen has a tendency to fall off, and putting it back on triggers one of the function buttons constantly. I've tried changing the sensitivity settings for those keys, with no success.


Just send me a PM with your address so we can send you a new front (cover+glass+touch, fully assembled) since this is the only useful way to fix this. That the glass pops out on your device is also the reason why the touch control acts weird at the moment.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *craftyhack*
> 
> There is no tracking number yet (I chose DHL), but dang, that was fast, hopefully not too good to be true


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DNMock*
> 
> My order shipped 15 days ago and still has a 0 for the tracking number. Gonna guess they don't do tracking number for international shipping from the looks of things.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Sometimes they forget to send you the tracking.


All of our parcels have a tracking number of course and the number is set automatically to the account and a notification e-mail is sent too but for some strange reasons the automatic processing for these numbers often does not work correctly for parcels with a destination outside Europe. If you see a "0" in your account or get an e-mail without a tracking number it will not be updated anymore. In this case you have to contact the support to get the right number.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Swuell*
> 
> also do they do replacement on cables because the aquabus cable that came with the package broke...


If you tell me your address via PM we can send you a new cable with an envelope.


----------



## craftyhack

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> All of our parcels have a tracking number of course and the number is set automatically to the account and a notification e-mail is sent too but for some strange reasons the automatic processing for these numbers often does not work correctly for parcels with a destination outside Europe. If you see a "0" in your account or get an e-mail without a tracking number it will not be updated anymore. In this case you have to contact the support to get the right number.


I sent a request for the tracking number last night to support, got the tracking number back this morning, thanks Shoggy!

Current status: Wed, 06.05.2015 10:00 h IPZ-Ffm, Germany The shipment will be transported to the destination country and, from there, handed over to the delivery organization.

From Googling that message, I am linked to a bunch of other parcels' tracking history, and from what I can see it can take anywhere from a week to a month to get from the above status to the next phase, with an average of two weeks, so the shipping guidance on Aqua's looks correct.


----------



## ozzy1925

@Shoggy
a noob question: sleeving any aquabus cable voids warranty?


----------



## Mega Man

If you ate already a leaving why not Jay make your own cable


----------



## DewMan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> If you ate already a leaving why not Jay make your own cable










huh?

*reaches for Q-Tip*


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DewMan*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> If you ate already a leaving why not Jay make your own cable
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> huh?
> 
> *reaches for Q-Tip*
Click to expand...

I think that was meant to be already _sleeving_, and _just_ make your own cables . . . .

D.


----------



## Mega Man

Yea sorry phone auto correct and I didn't look to verify


----------



## DewMan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> Yea sorry phone auto correct and I didn't look to verify


No Worries!


----------



## Shoggy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ozzy1925*
> 
> @Shoggy
> a noob question: sleeving any aquabus cable voids warranty?


Mhh? The aquabus cable is already sleeved. If you want to change it with another color you can do that. It is just a cable - what should go wrong there? I think you would be the first customer ever returning a cable for a RMA


----------



## ozzy1925

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> Mhh? The aquabus cable is already sleeved. If you want to change it with another color you can do that. It is just a cable - what should go wrong there? I think you would be the first customer ever returning a cable for a RMA


well i couldnt explain myself if anything goes wrong with my aquaero or d5 pumps with aquabus will you blame me for sleeving power molex and aquabus cables? But i got you now


----------



## Shoggy

If you do something wrong there like reconnecting the wires in the wrong order we will find it out anyway since it will cause specific damages on the device. Of course we will then start to ask questions


----------



## ozzy1925

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> If you do something wrong there like reconnecting the wires in the wrong order we will find it out anyway since it will cause specific damages on the device. Of course we will then start to ask questions


I hope you wont bust me because it will be my fist sleeving job


----------



## VSG

I think Shoggy is saying that if the fault doesn't lie with the sleeving job you do, then it should be ok and still viable for RMA. Shoggy, did I misunderstand?


----------



## bkvamme

Hi,
Just got my Aquaero 5LT, and I have some quick (possibly stupid) questions.

1. Is it possible to adjust the brightness of the AquaComputer LED (5mm) using the Aquaero?
2. Is it possible to show the CPU/GPU temperatures reported by the CPU/GPU in AquaSuite, or will I have to resort to HWiNFO (or other compatible sw) to do this?
3. Is there a dedicated manual for AquaSuite, or is the manual for the Aquaero designed for this as well? The Aquaero manual is very good, but there are some features I would like to have a better explanation on how to use 
4. As far as I understand it, the Aquaero is capable of estimating the power usage of the cooled parts based on differential temperatures and flow rate, is this correct? Thermodynamics is fun 

Thanks for your help!


----------



## Shoggy

1.) Yes
2.) Yes, but a monitoring tool must run in the background. Supported tools are HWiNFO (highly recommend), Open Hardware Monitor or AIDA Extreme Edition
3.) The answer depends on which manual you have. The supplied manual is only a quick installation guide. The full manual can be downloaded from the website but it only explains the basic functions of the aquasuite.
4.) Yes


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bkvamme*
> 
> Hi,
> Just got my Aquaero 5LT, and I have some quick (possibly stupid) questions.
> 
> 1. Is it possible to adjust the brightness of the AquaComputer LED (5mm) using the Aquaero?
> 2. Is it possible to show the CPU/GPU temperatures reported by the CPU/GPU in AquaSuite, or will I have to resort to HWiNFO (or other compatible sw) to do this?
> 3. Is there a dedicated manual for AquaSuite, or is the manual for the Aquaero designed for this as well? The Aquaero manual is very good, but there are some features I would like to have a better explanation on how to use
> 4. As far as I understand it, the Aquaero is capable of estimating the power usage of the cooled parts based on differential temperatures and flow rate, is this correct? Thermodynamics is fun
> 
> Thanks for your help!


Shoggy got you covered in all parts. Just an additional info for 4 if you want to do that make sure you calibrate both temp sensors before putting to use. Difference in temp sensors calibration will contribute to noise and obscure the signal of power usage. Example in of rad might be 24.5 and exit migth be 24.8 but calibration difference easily can be in that order of mangitude between the two sensors ....


----------



## bkvamme

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> 1.) Yes
> 2.) Yes, but a monitoring tool must run in the background. Supported tools are HWiNFO (highly recommend), Open Hardware Monitor or AIDA Extreme Edition
> 3.) The answer depends on which manual you have. The supplied manual is only a quick installation guide. The full manual can be downloaded from the website but it only explains the basic functions of the aquasuite.
> 4.) Yes


Okay, thanks! I have the manual from the web site. I guess I'll just tinker around to figure it out. First day using it after all!

Already using HWiNFO, but I assumed that HWiNFO was reading information from the Aquaero through Aquasuite, and not the other way around. Amazing.

Love this, best controller unit/software I have ever had. Only wish I had discovered a couple of years ago before I wasted all that money on other fan controllers.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Shoggy got you covered in all parts. Just an additional info for 4 if you want to do that make sure you calibrate both temp sensors before putting to use. Difference in temp sensors calibration will contribute to noise and obscure the signal of power usage. Example in of rad might be 24.5 and exit migth be 24.8 but calibration difference easily can be in that order of mangitude between the two sensors ....


Yeah, the heat capacity of water is massive. Is there any requirements as to where the temperature sensors should be placed in the loop? I have three radiators, which are connected at different points.
I have planned my loop to be:
Reservoir -> Pump -> 240mm rad -> GPU -> 120mm rad -> CPU -> 280mm rad -> Reservoir

Based on my understanding, the power consumption calculation works by calculating how much heat has been added to the water by the components, which combined with the flow rate gives you the energy over time (wattage). In my case, the 120mm radiator will dissipate heat after the GPU, so I would assume that this may not work for me?

The ideal thing would be to measure the temperature before the water circulates to the components, and after, with no radiator in between, but this will mess up the esthetics of my loop.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bkvamme*
> 
> Okay, thanks! I have the manual from the web site. I guess I'll just tinker around to figure it out. First day using it after all!
> 
> Already using HWiNFO, but I assumed that HWiNFO was reading information from the Aquaero through Aquasuite, and not the other way around. Amazing.
> 
> Love this, best controller unit/software I have ever had. Only wish I had discovered a couple of years ago before I wasted all that money on other fan controllers.
> 
> Yeah, the heat capacity of water is massive. Is there any requirements as to where the temperature sensors should be placed in the loop? I have three radiators, which are connected at different points.
> I have planned my loop to be:
> Reservoir -> Pump -> 240mm rad -> GPU -> 120mm rad -> CPU -> 280mm rad -> Reservoir
> 
> Based on my understanding, the power consumption calculation works by calculating how much heat has been added to the water by the components, which combined with the flow rate gives you the energy over time (wattage). In my case, the 120mm radiator will dissipate heat after the GPU, so I would assume that this may not work for me?
> 
> The ideal thing would be to measure the temperature before the water circulates to the components, and after, with no radiator in between, but this will mess up the esthetics of my loop.


put in the In and Out of one of the rads, either the 240 or the 280. Or both if you have the sensors and multiport rads. But be aware that those measurements are more for fun than anything since they are very inaccurate.


----------



## Shoggy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bkvamme*
> 
> Already using HWiNFO, but I assumed that HWiNFO was reading information from the Aquaero through Aquasuite, and not the other way around. Amazing.


The aquasuite installs a system service which collects the data from the mentioned tools and pushes it directly to the aquaero so the aquasuite is only required to configure which software sensors you want to use but afterwards it can be closed and is not necessary anymore. If the monitoring tool is not running or is closed accidentally or crashes the aquaero will use a fall back value which you can also freely configure.

HWiNFO and AIDA can also read back the values from the aquaero through our system service so for example in HWiNFO it allows to do some crazy stuff like adding several icons that directly show sensor values in the system tray. With Riva Tuner in addition you could even create overlays that are displayed while gaming


----------



## bkvamme

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *bkvamme*
> 
> Already using HWiNFO, but I assumed that HWiNFO was reading information from the Aquaero through Aquasuite, and not the other way around. Amazing.
> 
> 
> 
> The aquasuite installs a system service which collects the data from the mentioned tools and pushes it directly to the aquaero so the aquasuite is only required to configure which software sensors you want to use but afterwards it can be closed and is not necessary anymore. If the monitoring tool is not running or is closed accidentally or crashes the aquaero will use a fall back value which you can also freely configure.
> 
> HWiNFO and AIDA can also read back the values from the aquaero through our system service so for example in HWiNFO it allows to do some crazy stuff like adding several icons that directly show sensor values in the system tray. With Riva Tuner in addition you could even create overlays that are displayed while gaming
Click to expand...

Amazing. Can't wait to play around with it some more. I am already using RivaTuner for temps, would be nice to have water temps and all that good stuff included!


----------



## Swuell

Could somebody tell me why one of the fans connected to my aquaero is not reporting the rpm? And thanks @shoggy, I'll pm you in a bit!


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Swuell*
> 
> Could somebody tell me why one of the fans connected to my aquaero is not reporting the rpm? And thanks @shoggy, I'll pm you in a bit!


are you using a splitter? if so, the splitter most likely have all pins in all headers and this cause a conflict since all fans are trying to report the rpm to the Aquaero.

If not, and you are only using one fan on that channel just make sure the correct setting is selected on the Aquasuite for it (either voltage or pwm). Also check the connections again just to be sure the connectors are all the way in.


----------



## Swuell

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> are you using a splitter? if so, the splitter most likely have all pins in all headers and this cause a conflict since all fans are trying to report the rpm to the Aquaero.
> 
> If not, and you are only using one fan on that channel just make sure the correct setting is selected on the Aquasuite for it (either voltage or pwm). Also check the connections again just to be sure the connectors are all the way in.


I'm using a splitter but the same splitter is working fine on the other fans and before it stopped working on this one it was working initially for a bit and then it just stopped... should I switch the splitter? :|

I checked all the connections.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Swuell*
> 
> I'm using a splitter but the same splitter is working fine on the other fans and before it stopped working on this one it was working initially for a bit and then it just stopped... should I switch the splitter? :|
> 
> I checked all the connections.


What splitter do you have? Does it have 3 pin on all fan headers?

Here an example. This is a pwm splitter done properly. Notice one fan header have all 4 pins the other only have 3. This is to avoid the rpm been reported from both fans. The same thing applies to 3 pin spllitters. Only one fan header should have the rpm signal. The others should have only 2. Just check your splitters if they have all 3 pins. If they do they will report rpm to Aquaero but it will be a hit and miss thing going to zero sometimes and then again showing the rpm:



if this is the case you will either need to cut out the correct pin from all fan headers or just get them out of the way so they don't plug in to the fan header female part. But before getting to the solution first verify they have indeed 3 pins on all fan headers (are you using voltage controlled fans I am assuming)?


----------



## Swuell

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> What splitter do you have? Does it have 3 pin on all fan headers?
> 
> Here an example. This is a pwm splitter done properly. Notice one fan header have all 4 pins the other only have 3. This is to avoid the rpm been reported from both fans. The same thing applies to 3 pin spllitters. Only one fan header should have the rpm signal. The others should have only 2. Just check your splitters if they have all 3 pins. If they do they will report rpm to Aquaero but it will be a hit and miss thing going to zero sometimes and then again showing the rpm:
> 
> 
> 
> if this is the case you will either need to cut out the correct pin from all fan headers or just get them out of the way so they don't plug in to the fan header female part. But before getting to the solution first verify they have indeed 3 pins on all fan headers (are you using voltage controlled fans I am assuming)?


Yeah mine is an evercool splitter I think 4 or 5 way with the proper pins--everything is 3 pins except for one which is 4 pins for rpm readout--and was working properly until recently it just stopped when I was adjusting my fans. :/


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Swuell*
> 
> Yeah mine is an evercool splitter I think 4 or 5 way with the proper pins--everything is 3 pins except for one which is 4 pins for rpm readout--and was working properly until recently it just stopped when I was adjusting my fans. :/


So is this one:

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16812311001

And all connections are good including the molex? And just so I could understand the fans are spinning and you can control them it is just the rpm report to Aquaero that is broke?


----------



## Swuell

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> So is this one:
> 
> http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16812311001
> 
> And all connections are good including the molex? And just so I could understand the fans are spinning and you can control them it is just the rpm report to Aquaero that is broke?


Yeah that's the right one and yes the molex is plugged in right since all the fans are running. The fans are running right--they're spinning--I haven't tried controlling them with a curve but they should be able to be controlled it's just the one fan--my Noctua--that's connected to the 4 pin with rpm is not reporting rpm now to the Aquaero--even though it reports 100% fan to Aquaero but when it comes to RPM it just says 0--and before that the rpm was working if for a few hours... :|


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Swuell*
> 
> Yeah that's the right one and yes the molex is plugged in right since all the fans are running. The fans are running right--they're spinning--I haven't tried controlling them with a curve but they should be able to be controlled it's just the one fan--my Noctua--that's connected to the 4 pin with rpm is not reporting rpm now to the Aquaero--even though it reports 100% fan to Aquaero but when it comes to RPM it just says 0--and before that the rpm was working if for a few hours... :|


I am running out of ideas but here is how I would proceed to troubleshoot your problem. First, I would try taking the splitter out and testing with different fans if they report the rpm to aquasuite. So test a different fan connected to aquaero directly. Does it report rpm? in the advanced settings fan type is correct (either pwm or voltage). You are using pwm fans but have you any voltage controlled? try it too and see if rpm is reported. If nothing of this give you a different behavior I would try a clean install of Aquasuite and see if fix the problem. If still nothing then perhaps is time for a RMA if it is still within the warranty.


----------



## Dagamus NM

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> So is this one:
> 
> http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16812311001
> 
> And all connections are good including the molex? And just so I could understand the fans are spinning and you can control them it is just the rpm report to Aquaero that is broke?


Read the reviews on that item sorting for lowest first. Seems like your problem is not with the aquero, but with the splitter itself. I bought one very similar when I didn't know as much as I do now. I was shocked that newegg peddled such a low quality product. It fell apart right away.

Have you considered one of the splitter boards linked maybe 100-200 posts back?


----------



## bkvamme

Hi,
I am currently sleeving my cables, and noticed that the USB cable used to connect the Aquaero to the motherboard is shielded. I assume that this is for a reason, but I can't imagine that the cable will be that exposed to EM disturbance that this is really required?

Is it safe to remove it to sleeve the cable with paracord, or should I just add more heatshrink to cover up the last part of the rainbow?


----------



## Mega Man

Usb cables are supposed to be shielded why not just sleeve it as one wire


----------



## fast_fate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bkvamme*
> 
> Hi,
> I am currently sleeving my cables, and noticed that the USB cable used to connect the Aquaero to the motherboard is shielded. I assume that this is for a reason, but I can't imagine that the cable will be that exposed to EM disturbance that this is really required?
> 
> Is it safe to remove it to sleeve the cable with paracord, or should I just add more heatshrink to cover up the last part of the rainbow?


Leave the shielding, just strip the end part if you are shortening a cable.



Check this post where I sleeved a USB cable - actually made it from scratch.
Substitute you preferred colour where I used white on the "rainbow" wires as you described them


----------



## bkvamme

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> Usb cables are supposed to be shielded why not just sleeve it as one wire


Hi, I was going to sleeve it as one wire, but the shielding appeared to be joined with the sleeving already used.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fast_fate*
> 
> Leave the shielding, just strip the end part if you are shortening a cable.
> 
> 
> 
> Check this post where I sleeved a USB cable - actually made it from scratch.
> Substitute you preferred colour where I used white on the "rainbow" wires as you described them


Nice job!

Ended up just using a permanent marker to mark the ends of the cable (did not have small enough heatshrink) and using heatshrink to cover the most of it. Turned out good enough for me now. I don't have any dupont female connectors, so the shortening will have to wait.

Thanks for the help!


----------



## Ulti

I have a question (might be stupid) but, I have the Aquareo 6 and cannot seem to get it to show up on my hardware devices no matter what I do.

When first setup, I only had the Aquareo plugged in via USB and had the software installed, didn't work.

Uninstalled software and plugged it in, didn't work.

Thought it could be the USB or I plugged it in wrong, ofc not the issue.

The controller does work and it senses my D5 and flow meter along with all the fans and temp sensors. Just doesn't show up on my computer.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ulti*
> 
> I have a question (might be stupid) but, I have the Aquareo 6 and cannot seem to get it to show up on my hardware devices no matter what I do.
> 
> When first setup, I only had the Aquareo plugged in via USB and had the software installed, didn't work.
> 
> Uninstalled software and plugged it in, didn't work.
> 
> Thought it could be the USB or I plugged it in wrong, ofc not the issue.
> 
> The controller does work and it senses my D5 and flow meter along with all the fans and temp sensors. Just doesn't show up on my computer.


the only possibilities I can think of:

1) the usb cable is damaged somehow, Check if all the wires are connected on both ends
2) Might be your usb port on the MB is not active or damaged?
3) despite double checking you might have the usb connection not set in proper order. Don't be upset, just trying to troubleshoot with you. Triple check that the blacks wires are inserted in the correct position in the Aquaero and also on the MB. The black wires should go on the MB usb part where you have either 5 or 4 pins. So the red wire goes on the part of the usb that have both pins (up and down).

hope it helps....


----------



## Ulti

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> the only possibilities I can think of:
> 
> 1) the usb cable is damaged somehow, Check if all the wires are connected on both ends
> 2) Might be your usb port on the MB is not active or damaged?
> 3) despite double checking you might have the usb connection not set in proper order. Don't be upset, just trying to troubleshoot with you. Triple check that the blacks wires are inserted in the correct position in the Aquaero and also on the MB. The black wires should go on the MB usb part where you have either 5 or 4 pins. So the red wire goes on the part of the usb that have both pins (up and down).
> 
> hope it helps....


I did all that I take no offense to the 3rd suggestion. I did double check to see if I somehow plugged it in wrong and I did had it wrong at some point but it was corrected. Mind you, the controller works when my PC is off and does sense when it's off/on.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ulti*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> the only possibilities I can think of:
> 
> 1) the usb cable is damaged somehow, Check if all the wires are connected on both ends
> 2) Might be your usb port on the MB is not active or damaged?
> 3) despite double checking you might have the usb connection not set in proper order. Don't be upset, just trying to troubleshoot with you. Triple check that the blacks wires are inserted in the correct position in the Aquaero and also on the MB. The black wires should go on the MB usb part where you have either 5 or 4 pins. So the red wire goes on the part of the usb that have both pins (up and down).
> 
> hope it helps....
> 
> 
> 
> I did all that I take no offense to the 3rd suggestion. I did double check to see if I somehow plugged it in wrong and I did had it wrong at some point but it was corrected. Mind you, the controller works when my PC is off and does sense when it's off/on.
Click to expand...

you may of damaged the controller when you reversed the usb cable


----------



## Ulti

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> you may of damaged the controller when you reversed the usb cable


How can I deterime if its damaged? As far as I can tell its working fine besides the sync between MB to controller.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ulti*
> 
> How can I deterime if its damaged? As far as I can tell its working fine besides the sync between MB to controller.


do you have other ports (usb) in the MB? Do you have a second pc where you can hook the Aq to it and see if shows up? red wire have current while black wires does not have. If you insert on the reverse orientation things can go south....that is what Mega Man was referring to...


----------



## Ulti

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> do you have other ports (usb) in the MB? Do you have a second pc where you can hook the Aq to it and see if shows up? red wire have current while black wires does not have. If you insert on the reverse orientation things can go south....that is what Mega Man was referring to...


I understand that but wouldn't that cause the controller to not work at all? I have nothing plugged into the motherboard besides the Aquareo.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ulti*
> 
> I understand that but wouldn't that cause the controller to not work at all? I have nothing plugged into the motherboard besides the Aquareo.


I am not familiar enough with the circuits in the Aquaero and certainly not from a more engineering background like Darlene (@ITDiva) to say in a definite way what effect the usb wrong orientation would have. Perhaps will fry only the USB circuitry and not the rest? Mind you, at this point I am not saying that what happen but it is certainly something you should consider. Try to connect the aquaero to other USB ports on your mob and see if goes live. The idea of a second PC (a friend or family perhpas) is to troubleshoot the problem. It the aquaero does not show up n a different pc it is either the cable or the Aq that is the problem...


----------



## Ulti

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> I am not familiar enough with the circuits in the Aquaero and certainly not from a more engineering background like Darlene (@ITDiva) to say in a definite way what effect the usb wrong orientation would have. Perhaps will fry only the USB circuitry and not the rest? Mind you, at this point I am not saying that what happen but it is certainly something you should consider. Try to connect the aquaero to other USB ports on your mob and see if goes live. The idea of a second PC (a friend or family perhpas) is to troubleshoot the problem. It the aquaero does not show up n a different pc it is either the cable or the Aq that is the problem...


I do have a second PC and will try it plug it in using that.

Before I do, software needs to be installed before I plug it in right? Just checking twice


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ulti*
> 
> I do have a second PC and will try it plug it in using that.
> 
> Before I do, software needs to be installed before I plug it in right? Just checking twice


no need. If you are running win 7 for example the moment the OS starts the desktop you should see a new hardware finding and searching for drivers. But yeah, to acess the Aquaero you will need auqasuite so if does show up install aquasuite to confirm is working fine. Good luck.


----------



## craftyhack

Just wanted to post an update that I received my Aquaero 6 XT (and a bunch of other stuff to go with it) today, May 11th. I purchase on May 4th, so the total time in transit was 7 calendar days using DHL from Germany to Kansas City, Missouri (roughly 2000mi from either coast in the USA). Just a "positive" data point for others in the USA that may want to get one but are afraid to order from aquaero.de direct because of a few negative experiences with shipping posted online (that is the position I was in). I am sure there are many more positive data points than negative, but I am guessing that not many of those with good experiences posted in those "shipping issue" threads I found because they were too busy playing with their new Aquaero







. Speaking of which, back to installing mine now, I was just taking a break after doing some loop planning and testing.


----------



## Nornam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ulti*
> 
> I do have a second PC and will try it plug it in using that.
> 
> Before I do, software needs to be installed before I plug it in right? Just checking twice


Please excuse this post if it seems like I'm stating the obvious!!!... But you do have the Aquaero connected via the MOLEX also don't you?...

I've seen it done before & so is the only reason I'm suggesting it or it has already been suggested. If you do have it connected via the Molex as well & it's still not working....... t's looking like it has been damaged somehow....

Nam....


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bkvamme*
> 
> Hi,
> I am currently sleeving my cables, and noticed that the USB cable used to connect the Aquaero to the motherboard is shielded. I assume that this is for a reason, but I can't imagine that the cable will be that exposed to EM disturbance that this is really required?
> 
> Is it safe to remove it to sleeve the cable with paracord, or should I just add more heatshrink to cover up the last part of the rainbow?


I have shortened the internal USB cables and kept the shielding but it isn't really necessary depending on how long it is and each case may be different. I used Bitfenix USB extensions for a long time that have no fifth pin or shielding and the Aquaero and other devices work just fine with them.


----------



## Ulti

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nornam*
> 
> Please excuse this post if it seems like I'm stating the obvious!!!... But you do have the Aquaero connected via the MOLEX also don't you?...
> 
> I've seen it done before & so is the only reason I'm suggesting it or it has already been suggested. If you do have it connected via the Molex as well & it's still not working....... t's looking like it has been damaged somehow....
> 
> Nam....


Lol yes it is. In fact, it stays on when the PC is off. It wouldn't do that when the USB wasn't plugged in. It also senses/ notifies when it turns on/off


----------



## jvillaveces

Hello again. When I put my loop together a couple of weeks ago I decided not to get the Aquaero because I had already purchased the Performace PCs uber modded pump pwm, aka Swiftech Mcp 655, and I didn't want the hassle of the incompatible pump. Well, my pump was only marginally able to run my loop, plus it was invisible to the mobo anyway, and it just died on me. I drained my loop and could never refill it because the pump wasn't working any more.
Figuring I would take the opportunity to put in dual pumps, I went ahead and got two of the "Aquacomputer D5 Pump Mechanics with USB and Aquabus Interface" and an Aquaero 6 Pro. I have never used any Aquacomputer products before, and I am quite the newbie builder. I was wondering how I should connect the pumps to the Aquaero. BTW, I don't know if this is relevant, but I'm going to put the pumps in a Bitspower dual top with a res adapter. Thanks!


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jvillaveces*
> 
> Hello again. When I put my loop together a couple of weeks ago I decided not to get the Aquaero because I had already purchased the Performace PCs uber modded pump pwm, aka Swiftech Mcp 655, and I didn't want the hassle of the incompatible pump. Well, my pump was only marginally able to run my loop, plus it was invisible to the mobo anyway, and it just died on me. I drained my loop and could never refill it because the pump wasn't working any more.
> Figuring I would take the opportunity to put in dual pumps, I went ahead and got two of the "Aquacomputer D5 Pump Mechanics with USB and Aquabus Interface" and an Aquaero 6 Pro. I have never used any Aquacomputer products before, and I am quite the newbie builder. I was wondering how I should connect the pumps to the Aquaero. BTW, I don't know if this is relevant, but I'm going to put the pumps in a Bitspower dual top with a res adapter. Thanks!


Get a Y 4 pin splitter and connect both pumps to the Aquabus High port on the aquaero. But before you do that connect both pumps to usb on MB, install aquasuite and then attribute a different aquabus address to each pump. The default is 12 if my memory serve so just put 13 for the other. Then put aquabus priority instead of USB. take the power out of the system and the aquaero (take the plug off the wall) and then place both pump on the y splitter on the high aquabus port and you are good to go. I recommend that you read the Aquaero manual as well as some resources on the OP of this thread.


----------



## jvillaveces

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Get a Y 4 pin splitter and connect both pumps to the Aquabus High port on the aquaero. But before you do that connect both pumps to usb on MB


Thanks! So the Aquabus interface is just a 4-pin? I thought I would need special hardware to do this.
Can I use a USB 2.0 splitter to connect the pumps to the mobo for the initial setup? I only have one free USB2.0 header on the mobo.
After initial setup, is it *necessary* to disconnect from USB, or can they live happily connected to both?
Your advice on reading up is pretty good, I have been doing a lot of that while the parts arrive, it's just that the information is a bit confusing, especially without ever having tried it.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jvillaveces*
> 
> Thanks! So the Aquabus interface is just a 4-pin? I thought I would need special hardware to do this.
> Can I use a USB 2.0 splitter to connect the pumps to the mobo for the initial setup? I only have one free USB2.0 header on the mobo.
> After initial setup, is it *necessary* to disconnect from USB, or can they live happily connected to both?
> Your advice on reading up is pretty good, I have been doing a lot of that while the parts arrive, it's just that the information is a bit confusing, especially without ever having tried it.


Yep, in fact the usb on Aquacomputer devices are USB 2 so you are good to go. You can keep both connected at the same time. I would prefer that way actually since you always could change priority and switch between usb and auqabus. No the aquabus is just a 4 pin header. So a PWM splitter will all 4 pins will work out.


----------



## SchmoSalt

I'm really impressed by Aquacomputer's Farbwerk. So much so that I am now considering buying an Aquaero. If I do it will replace my Lamptron FC5V2 which has a failing display. I just have two questions.

1. How much utility would I get out of it for a strictly air cooled build?

2. I noticed that the current version (V6) is about 4 years old. Will there be a new version soon? Should I wait for a V7 to come out?


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SchmoSalt*
> 
> I'm really impressed by Aquacomputer's Farbwerk. So much so that I am now considering buying an Aquaero. If I do it will replace my Lamptron FC5V2 which has a failing display. I just have two questions.
> 
> 1. How much utility would I get out of it for a strictly air cooled build?
> 
> 2. I noticed that the current version (V6) is about 4 years old. Will there be a new version soon? Should I wait for a V7 to come out?


Aquaero 6 is not even 2 years old, It was launched around mid 2013. But good question about v7, one that only can be answered by Shoggy. In regard to its utility to air cooled build...You will have a temperature control central capable of constantly monitoring your rig with up to 8 temp sensors+software temp sensors (gpu and cpu for example) and adjust to your taste your fans speed accordingly. That is it. Some of its functions would not benefit you since water flow, water temp etc will not be useful to you. I still say go for it but ultimately is your decision in regard its potential uses for you.


----------



## SchmoSalt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Aquaero 6 is not even 2 years old, It was launched around mid 2013. But good question about v7, one that only can be answered by Shoggy. In regard to its utility to air cooled build...You will have a temperature control central capable of constantly monitoring your rig with up to 8 temp sensors+software temp sensors (gpu and cpu for example) and adjust to your taste your fans speed accordingly. That is it. Some of its functions would not benefit you since water flow, water temp etc will not be useful to you. I still say go for it but ultimately is your decision in regard its potential uses for you.


I must have been mistaken on the age then. That's good to know, thanks.

Would you happen to know if it would be capable of supporting 3x 16W fans? Also can you just use a standard 3 pin fan cable for the Aquabus (to a Farbwerk) connector?


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SchmoSalt*
> 
> I must have been mistaken on the age then. That's good to know, thanks.
> 
> Would you happen to know if it would be capable of supporting 3x 16W fans? Also can you just use a standard 3 pin fan cable for the Aquabus (to a Farbwerk) connector?


which fans do you have? In any case: The maximum current per channel is 2,5A (30W at 12V) without any special cooling. Directly from Aq.

http://forum.aquacomputer.de/weitere-foren/english-forum/103573-new-aquaero-6/

So I think you are covered. But just to be sure which fans and how many are you using it?

in regard to the aquabus cable:

*Please note: Both aquabus connectors are also compatible with 3 pin
aquabus devices. The additional "pin 4" supplies power to compatible 4 pin
aquabus devices. For example, a poweradjust 2 unit (3 pin) and a mps flow
200 unit (4 pin) can simultaneously be connected using a 4 pin Y adapter
cable (art. 53124).
Pin assignment: Pin 1: GND
Pin 2: SDA
Pin 3: SCL
Pin 4: +5 V*

so if your mps device need the 4 pin cable I think you will need the 4 pin cable to work properly?

edit - not sure about this last part since the MPS 400 ships with a 3 pin cable so...


----------



## SchmoSalt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> which fans do you have? In any case: The maximum current per channel is 2,5A (30W at 12V) without any special cooling. Directly from Aq.
> 
> http://forum.aquacomputer.de/weitere-foren/english-forum/103573-new-aquaero-6/
> 
> So I think you are covered. But just to be sure which fans and how many are you using it?
> 
> in regard to the aquabus cable:
> 
> *Please note: Both aquabus connectors are also compatible with 3 pin
> aquabus devices. The additional "pin 4" supplies power to compatible 4 pin
> aquabus devices. For example, a poweradjust 2 unit (3 pin) and a mps flow
> 200 unit (4 pin) can simultaneously be connected using a 4 pin Y adapter
> cable (art. 53124).
> Pin assignment: Pin 1: GND
> Pin 2: SDA
> Pin 3: SCL
> Pin 4: +5 V*
> 
> so if your mps device need the 4 pin cable I think you will need the 4 pin cable to work properly?


I'm going to try to run 3x Silverstone AP182s from it. From what I read the Aquaero only supports 1300 RPM - 2000 RPM on the AP182. This isn't a problem with the Aquaero but rather the subpar design of the AP182. It's still better than what I have now though. The controller I have now can't control it at all properly. I was just wondering if the Aquaero could run the fans directly or if it needed those Poweradjust units. From what you said it seems that it can run them directly though.

I'm not sure what cable is required to connect the Farbwerk to the Aquaero. The manual isn't too clear on what cable to use. It just gives a list of 3 and 4 pin cables but doesn't specify what type of cable should be used.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SchmoSalt*
> 
> I'm going to try to run 3x Silverstone AP182s from it. From what I read the Aquaero only supports 1300 RPM - 2000 RPM on the AP182. This isn't a problem with the Aquaero but rather the subpar design of the AP182. It's still better than what I have now though. The controller I have now can't control it at all properly. I was just wondering if the Aquaero could run the fans directly or if it needed those Poweradjust units. From what you said it seems that it can run them directly though.
> 
> I'm not sure what cable is required to connect the Farbwerk to the Aquaero. The manual isn't too clear on what cable to use. It just gives a list of 3 and 4 pin cables but doesn't specify what type of cable should be used.


Ok from Silverstone specs at 2000 rpm each fan will be at 1.3 A. Run each fan on its own channel and I believe the Aquaero will handle without problem. In fact one channel might be able to run 2 fans with the heatsink. I never connected the fabwerk to the Aquaero (only to usb) but from the manual any of the following cables (part number from Aq) can be used:

53122/53161/53162/93111

and the cable required is a 3 pin cable


----------



## VSG

Those AP182s don't really follow voltage or PWM control. That's why they come bundled with the knob style controller with each fan. I believe it changes both voltage and current supply to the fan (not sure, but getting this confirmed based on a few emails with Silverstone) to get the entire speed range, and that is likely why you can't get the entire range with voltage control alone from the Aquaero.


----------



## Jakusonfire

I think the AP182 fans use a similar control system to a D5 vario. With the speed control dial you can reduce the speed by a lot but simply reducing the voltage gives nothing like the same range.


----------



## VSG

A straight up potentiometer inside?


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> A straight up potentiometer inside?


Well, sort of. The dial is a pot, but its a pot for a motor speed control IC in both cases. Not just a Rheostat for the 12V power supplied to the fan.


----------



## SchmoSalt

Anything would be better than those knobs. They are effectively Low/High buttons. There are only two actual speed settings on the entire knob arch.

I'd be fine with having a minimum speed of 1300 RPM on the Aquaero. It's a lot better than the 500 RPM or 2000 RPM options I am left with right now. I could try rewiring and bypassing the internal speed controller to give the Aquaero full control as well.


----------



## FrancisJF

Will the aquaero 6 pro able to control 3 pin fans even though the aquaero has 4 pins?


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FrancisJF*
> 
> Will the aquaero 6 pro able to control 3 pin fans even though the aquaero has 4 pins?


Yeah, absolutely. You can configure each fan channel individually to handle either PWM fans (4 pins) or voltage controlled fans (3 pins).


----------



## IT Diva

I have a question about updating firmware I'm hoping @Shoggy can help with,

I have a pair of the original release A6XTs (100 Ohm resistors) and one of them has a 5LT slaved to it.

I want to upgrade the Aquasuite version so it can control a Farby, but I'm not sure what will happen to the slaved 5LT since I know you loose all your settings with a major firmware upgrade.

I don't mind redoing the setups, I just don't want to end up with a bricked 5LT.

Do I need to "unslave" it before the FW upgrade, and does the 5LT firmware upgrade too?

Thanks in advance,

Darlene


----------



## FrancisJF

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Yeah, absolutely. You can configure each fan channel individually to handle either PWM fans (4 pins) or voltage controlled fans (3 pins).


Thanks Gab for the quick reply, I was wondering if passive heatsink is necessary or will it be good the way it is right now? I ordered the aquaero 6 pro yesterday.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FrancisJF*
> 
> Thanks Gab for the quick reply, I was wondering if passive heatsink is necessary or will it be good the way it is right now? I ordered the aquaero 6 pro yesterday.


The Aq 6 runs pretty cool without heatsink. I like the heatsink and I think is a nice add on, one that looks good and help with seen the names for each connector but is not a requirement as it was for Aq 5 that could run pretty hot...


----------



## DewMan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> I like the heatsink and I think is a nice add on, one that looks good and help with seen the names for each connector but is not a requirement as it was for Aq 5 that could run pretty hot...


What he said.

Much better looking and easier to read labeling than factory sticker. To me, it was worth the cost just for that reason. Besides the cooling aspect.


----------



## DewMan

As promised in a previous subject in this thread:

I'm here to report that an Aquaero 6 Pro, that I purchased on April 13th, 2015 from Aquatuning.us, mounts without issue using the CaseLabs' MAC-125 "*Flex-Bay 5.25 Device Mount - Standard*".









I did *not* have to get the nonconforming mount kit for it to fit properly.

It looks like they really have resolved the issue with their brackets.


----------



## electro2u

Anyone have pics of how they cleaned up the wiring to their units? Mine is pretty hectic.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> Anyone have pics of how they cleaned up the wiring to their units? Mine is pretty hectic.


drilled a hole on that plate and put the cables up




in the end it was like this and quite hidden by the rad:


----------



## fast_fate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> Anyone have pics of how they cleaned up the wiring to their units? Mine is pretty hectic.


----------



## Mega Man

showoff ( I R KIDDING )










looks great !~


----------



## electro2u

Yah, those are awesome, thx guys. Hope to see more!


----------



## Trestles126

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> I would put the LED strips on the 12V PWM ports rather than waste a fan header on them. The PWM ports are great for LED strips. Depending on the brand, from memory you can put like 4 30cm strips on each port, for 8 total, or more shorter strips.
> 
> I have put up to 10 fans on a single header with no problems at all, and many more has been demonstrated.
> 3 fans per channel is way under the max power draw limit. A heatsink would not be needed or even do very much at these levels. They are good for protecting the PCB though and the labelling of headers is much improved with them.


Where would I find some y 4 into 1 two pin extensions for my dark side less to plug into the aquero 6 2 pin pwm ports?


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Trestles126*
> 
> Where would I find some y 4 into 1 two pin extensions for my dark side less to plug into the aquero 6 2 pin pwm ports?


Don't they have special splitter cables for the darkside LED's at the same places that sell em?


----------



## Wolfsbora

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> Don't they have special splitter cables for the darkside LED's at the same places that sell em?


Believe it or not they aren't that easy to find. FCPU always had them in stock but since they're now doing the creepy Craigslist thing (unconfirmed







) I haven't been able to find them unless you go through DazMode which can be a bit pricey on the shipping side.


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wolfsbora*
> 
> Believe it or not they aren't that easy to find. FCPU always had them in stock but since they're now doing the creepy Craigslist thing (unconfirmed
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ) I haven't been able to find them unless you go through DazMode which can be a bit pricey on the shipping side.


Yeah I just realised that when I went looking. I thought they were easily available. Mine came with 3 pin fan connectors so it would be easy enough to use an ordinary fan splitter with that type.

FCPU used to have all the good stuff. Too bad about that train wreck and all the strange creeps cheering it on. This has been the only hobby I have been a part of that was not fiercely protective of their niche suppliers. To get my BP carbon black fittings the only option is to pay through the nose buying direct ... Also the only time I have encountered higher prices direct. That's the cost of being pedantic about wanting real matte black rather than satin black named matte black I guess.


----------



## RoostrC0gburn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fast_fate*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> Anyone have pics of how they cleaned up the wiring to their units? Mine is pretty hectic.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
Click to expand...

Dude, are you ever gonna finish that build? seriously one of the best builds i have seen here, just want to see it ALIVE!
saliv8ing --->


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RoostrC0gburn*
> 
> Dude, are you ever gonna finish that build? seriously one of the best builds i have seen here, just want to see it ALIVE!
> saliv8ing --->


FF is spending too much time working on testing and contributing to the advancement of the hobby.
It is probably the best Caselabs build I've seen in a long time. It convinced me to go white if I ever go that way. So perfect with the Eloops


----------



## Trestles126

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wolfsbora*
> 
> Believe it or not they aren't that easy to find. FCPU always had them in stock but since they're now doing the creepy Craigslist thing (unconfirmed
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ) I haven't been able to find them unless you go through DazMode which can be a bit pricey on the shipping side.


Yes all of my adapters from darkside are 3pin femalees into the darkside 2pin style is like to find 2 2 pin into 3 or 4 way split 2 pin if not I have a fan bay still open


----------



## fast_fate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RoostrC0gburn*
> 
> Dude, are you ever gonna finish that build? seriously one of the best builds i have seen here, just want to see it ALIVE!
> saliv8ing --->


Another small project to finish first








then full steam ahead to finish S_alive_8 ...maybe


----------



## Gabrielzm

Anyway of running Aquasuite on linux folks? Or more to the point, if an user is using Linux OS and have a mps400 anyway to constantly monitor flow rate and set up an alarm?


----------



## SchmoSalt

I have one more question before I buy. What is the difference between the XT and the Pro besides the faceplate?

I like the look of the Pro better but I don't want to sacrifice too much functionality. I know the remote isn't included with the Pro but that isn't a big deal because I would just buy the remote separately.

Edit:
I have another question but this is related to the Farbwerk. Is the color of the power LED changeable? If I mount it to the front it would have to be a white LED. If not then I'll just keep it hidden away in my case.


----------



## Jakusonfire

I prefer the pro for it's looks and it can't suffer the over sensitive touch keys of some xt's.

From memory there used to be some very small functionality differences but I don't believe that exists now. The extra keys are just shortcuts.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wolfsbora*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> Don't they have special splitter cables for the darkside LED's at the same places that sell em?
> 
> 
> 
> Believe it or not they aren't that easy to find. FCPU always had them in stock but since they're now doing the creepy Craigslist thing (unconfirmed
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ) I haven't been able to find them unless you go through DazMode which can be a bit pricey on the shipping side.
Click to expand...

daz is looking for a us supplier, ( see the gentle typhoon club ) for many things but he is also selling 2150 gts and soon pwm 2150 gts !~
to my knowledge has not found one
but either oyu could make your own, or maybe show me a pic of what you want ? i know the 2pin you speak of, but whats the other side ?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SchmoSalt*
> 
> I have one more question before I buy. What is the difference between the XT and the Pro besides the faceplate?
> 
> I like the look of the Pro better but I don't want to sacrifice too much functionality. I know the remote isn't included with the Pro but that isn't a big deal because I would just buy the remote separately.
> 
> Edit:
> I have another question but this is related to the Farbwerk. Is the color of the power LED changeable? If I mount it to the front it would have to be a white LED. If not then I'll just keep it hidden away in my case.


just the remote and touch sensitive keys everything else is the same


----------



## bkvamme

Is there a diagram avaliable showing the dimensions of the AquaComputer Farbwerk RGB LED strips? Particularly interested in the spacing between the LEDs and the dimensions of the LED it self. Planning to mill out a gap in some acrylic/polycarbonate rods to use as a diffuser, and need to now how large the gap needs to be.

Also, is it possible to use a splitter to connect multiple strips to the same channel? Since there is no splitter avaliable, I assume not?
If no to the above, is it possible to link the channels together, or will have just have to configure them with the same settings? I will be using 4 strips, and all of them should have the same colour.

EDIT:

Also, how would I proceed to install a physical power switch for the LEDs? Since the Farbwerk controller can draw up to 8.1A, I cannot use the vandal switch to cut the power directly (and this would not be clever in any way). Is it possible to connect my vandal switch to one of the sensor inputs, and add some logic here? According to the manual it is possible to configure the sensor inputs as resistance and voltage. Is it possible to use the resistance mode so that when the circuit is closed (resistance should be a small, non-zero value), the lighting is on, but when the circut is open the lightning would turn off (resistance should -> infinity).

Or, I could connect up the power button so that it recieves 3.3V, and only passes this through to the Farbwerk controller when the circut is closed.

Obviously, I could just do this manually in Aquasuite, but it would be much nicer, and very much easier to just configure it with a physical switch, rather than changing the outputs on each of the channels.

Does anybody have any experience with this?

This is defintely not a dealbreaker, but it would be neat to have it rigged up this way, especially since I already drilled a hole in my case for the button


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bkvamme*
> 
> Is there a diagram avaliable showing the dimensions of the AquaComputer Farbwerk RGB LED strips? Particularly interested in the spacing between the LEDs and the dimensions of the LED it self. Planning to mill out a gap in some acrylic/polycarbonate rods to use as a diffuser, and need to now how large the gap needs to be.
> 
> Also, is it possible to use a splitter to connect multiple strips to the same channel? Since there is no splitter avaliable, I assume not?
> If no to the above, is it possible to link the channels together, or will have just have to configure them with the same settings? I will be using 4 strips, and all of them should have the same colour.
> 
> EDIT:
> 
> Also, how would I proceed to install a physical power switch for the LEDs? Since the Farbwerk controller can draw up to 8.1A, I cannot use the vandal switch to cut the power directly (and this would not be clever in any way). Is it possible to connect my vandal switch to one of the sensor inputs, and add some logic here? According to the manual it is possible to configure the sensor inputs as resistance and voltage. Is it possible to use the resistance mode so that when the circuit is closed (resistance should be a small, non-zero value), the lighting is on, but when the circut is open the lightning would turn off (resistance should -> infinity).
> 
> Or, I could connect up the power button so that it recieves 3.3V, and only passes this through to the Farbwerk controller when the circut is closed.
> 
> Obviously, I could just do this manually in Aquasuite, but it would be much nicer, and very much easier to just configure it with a physical switch, rather than changing the outputs on each of the channels.
> 
> Does anybody have any experience with this?
> 
> This is defintely not a dealbreaker, but it would be neat to have it rigged up this way, especially since I already drilled a hole in my case for the button


Leds are 11 mm apart on the Aquacomputer led strip. Leds are 4 x 4 mm. Use one strip in each channel that would be easier and quite fast to configure.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bkvamme*
> 
> Is there a diagram avaliable showing the dimensions of the AquaComputer Farbwerk RGB LED strips? Particularly interested in the spacing between the LEDs and the dimensions of the LED it self. Planning to mill out a gap in some acrylic/polycarbonate rods to use as a diffuser, and need to now how large the gap needs to be.
> 
> Also, is it possible to use a splitter to connect multiple strips to the same channel? Since there is no splitter avaliable, I assume not?
> If no to the above, is it possible to link the channels together, or will have just have to configure them with the same settings? I will be using 4 strips, and all of them should have the same colour.
> 
> EDIT:
> 
> Also, how would I proceed to install a physical power switch for the LEDs? Since the Farbwerk controller can draw up to 8.1A, I cannot use the vandal switch to cut the power directly (and this would not be clever in any way). Is it possible to connect my vandal switch to one of the sensor inputs, and add some logic here? According to the manual it is possible to configure the sensor inputs as resistance and voltage. Is it possible to use the resistance mode so that when the circuit is closed (resistance should be a small, non-zero value), the lighting is on, but when the circut is open the lightning would turn off (resistance should -> infinity).
> 
> Or, I could connect up the power button so that it recieves 3.3V, and only passes this through to the Farbwerk controller when the circut is closed.
> 
> Obviously, I could just do this manually in Aquasuite, but it would be much nicer, and very much easier to just configure it with a physical switch, rather than changing the outputs on each of the channels.
> 
> Does anybody have any experience with this?
> 
> This is defintely not a dealbreaker, but it would be neat to have it rigged up this way, especially since I already drilled a hole in my case for the button


do you want to cut out all leds, one strip at a time or what there are several ways to do it


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bkvamme*
> 
> Is there a diagram avaliable showing the dimensions of the AquaComputer Farbwerk RGB LED strips? Particularly interested in the spacing between the LEDs and the dimensions of the LED it self. Planning to mill out a gap in some acrylic/polycarbonate rods to use as a diffuser, and need to now how large the gap needs to be.
> 
> Also, is it possible to use a splitter to connect multiple strips to the same channel? Since there is no splitter avaliable, I assume not?
> If no to the above, is it possible to link the channels together, or will have just have to configure them with the same settings? I will be using 4 strips, and all of them should have the same colour.
> 
> EDIT:
> 
> Also, how would I proceed to install a physical power switch for the LEDs? Since the Farbwerk controller can draw up to 8.1A, I cannot use the vandal switch to cut the power directly (and this would not be clever in any way). Is it possible to connect my vandal switch to one of the sensor inputs, and add some logic here? According to the manual it is possible to configure the sensor inputs as resistance and voltage. Is it possible to use the resistance mode so that when the circuit is closed (resistance should be a small, non-zero value), the lighting is on, but when the circut is open the lightning would turn off (resistance should -> infinity).
> 
> Or, I could connect up the power button so that it recieves 3.3V, and only passes this through to the Farbwerk controller when the circut is closed.
> 
> Obviously, I could just do this manually in Aquasuite, but it would be much nicer, and very much easier to just configure it with a physical switch, rather than changing the outputs on each of the channels.
> 
> Does anybody have any experience with this?
> 
> This is defintely not a dealbreaker, but it would be neat to have it rigged up this way, especially since I already drilled a hole in my case for the button


LED's can be split just like anything else electrical. You just need to be sure that each wire is connected properly, so many PWM type splitters will not work because they don't connect all wires. Some custom wiring and connectors would let you use the low cost modmytoys PWM splitters. If you are only using 4 strips then you may as well just use all 4 channels.

The Fabwerk uses controllers, just like the Aquaero, so multiple channels can be assigned to the same controller and run the same settings.


----------



## bkvamme

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> do you want to cut out all leds, one strip at a time or what there are several ways to do it


I want to cut out one LED strip at a time. Essentially to mill a groove for all of the LEDs on one of the long sides of the acrylic stick. I was considering doing it for one LED at a time, but the resistors and everything on the strip might make this more of an hassle.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> LED's can be split just like anything else electrical. You just need to be sure that each wire is connected properly, so many PWM type splitters will not work because they don't connect all wires. Some custom wiring and connectors would let you use the low cost modmytoys PWM splitters. If you are only using 4 strips then you may as well just use all 4 channels.
> 
> The Fabwerk uses controllers, just like the Aquaero, so multiple channels can be assigned to the same controller and run the same settings.


Okay, excellent. I already have a PWM splitter, but this only reports back the RPM signal for one of the connectors, which I would assume would cause some problems. The reason for splitting them was to make cable management easier. Instead of having multiple wires running, I could use one wire and just solder on the LED strips as the wire passed them.


----------



## Newtocooling

Help needed

I just started testing my Aquacomputer D5 PWM pumps and both will not show RPM on my Aquaero 6 Pro on any fan channel even after setting them to PWM instead of power output. I also just tried plugging them into my fan channel on the ROG Gene motherboard and it doesn't show RPM either. It will show the RPM on my DDC PWM pump though. Any help would be appreciated.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Newtocooling*
> 
> Help needed
> 
> I just started testing my Aquacomputer D5 PWM pumps and both will not show RPM on my Aquaero 6 Pro on any fan channel even after setting them to PWM instead of power output. I also just tried plugging them into my fan channel on the ROG Gene motherboard and it doesn't show RPM either. It will show the RPM on my DDC PWM pump though. Any help would be appreciated.


Can you take a picture of the testing loop? Are they already in the final loop or in a bench where you put them to test? Mounted them on a top, put reservoir + tubes and water and power on the pumps via molex correct? Aquaero is connected via USB to MB and also powered by molex correct? Fan channels are configured to PWM correct?

The only thing that occur to me if all this above are correct is that you are using a splitter Y for both pumps and both fan header have all 4 pins on it. Have you tried one pump alone connected directly to the aquaero or MB fan channel?


----------



## Newtocooling

I was actually just testing a new Bitspower D5 clear acrylic top and D5 Mod for the pump body. So I just had a tube going from the res to the inlet pump top and the outlet of the top going back into the res to check for leaks and make sure the pumps were working okay before I began a new build with them. I think I figured out my problem though, I have a DDC 35X PWM in an S5 build and I had the same problem when testing that pump as well no RPM showing on my Aquaero. What I realized is that everytime I was testing a pump setup like this I was using two of these to do the test:



So today I hooked up the pump to a Corsair AX860i and guess what I finally got the RPM to show up if I powered the pump by a real power supply as opposed to this AC to molex power that I use to fill my loop when first starting up. The only other slight problem I see now is the RPM reading was sporadic bouncing all over the place. I'm just happy I think I figured out this problem.


----------



## Jakusonfire

The pump and Aquaero need to be on the same power supply for rpm reporting to work. They need to share the same grounding circuit.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> The pump and Aquaero need to be on the same power supply for rpm reporting to work. *They need to share the same grounding circuit*.


Yep, That they have to have a common ground connection is the operative criteria there.

They can use multiple power sources, the grounds just have to all be connected together for things to work properly, both rpm wise and PWM wise.

D.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Newtocooling*
> 
> I was actually just testing a new Bitspower D5 clear acrylic top and D5 Mod for the pump body. So I just had a tube going from the res to the inlet pump top and the outlet of the top going back into the res to check for leaks and make sure the pumps were working okay before I began a new build with them. I think I figured out my problem though, I have a DDC 35X PWM in an S5 build and I had the same problem when testing that pump as well no RPM showing on my Aquaero. What I realized is that everytime I was testing a pump setup like this I was using two of these to do the test:
> 
> 
> 
> So today I hooked up the pump to a Corsair AX860i and guess what I finally got the RPM to show up if I powered the pump by a real power supply as opposed to this AC to molex power that I use to fill my loop when first starting up. The only other slight problem I see now is the RPM reading was sporadic bouncing all over the place. I'm just happy I think I figured out this problem.


glad was this and you found it. The sporadic rpm issue might be due to both pumps on the same channel. Are you using like this or each pump on its own channel in the Aquaero?


----------



## Newtocooling

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> glad was this and you found it. The sporadic rpm issue might be due to both pumps on the same channel. Are you using like this or each pump on its own channel in the Aquaero?


No each pump will be on it's own channel. I think the sporadic reading is because I'm using another aquaero outside the case for testing and it's powered by an AC adapter as well. It will all be good once everything is in the build and powered by the power supply itself.


----------



## Newtocooling

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> The pump and Aquaero need to be on the same power supply for rpm reporting to work. They need to share the same grounding circuit.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Yep, That they have to have a common ground connection is the operative criteria there.
> 
> They can use multiple power sources, the grounds just have to all be connected together for things to work properly, both rpm wise and PWM wise.
> 
> D.


Thanks guys that is exaclty what I was struggling to understand! Too bad I spent almost 2 hours trying different things to get this working. Oh well this past year has been one huge learning experience.


----------



## electro2u

Curious why the second 12v adapter?

When I'm testing I power my pumps and aquaero off a molex splitter from the same 12v source.


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> Curious why the second 12v adapter?
> 
> When I'm testing I power my pumps and aquaero off a molex splitter from the same 12v source.


I have done the same thing in testing so that the Aquaero stays powered to log data but the pump can be fully stopped.


----------



## jagdtigger

@Shoggy

I just had a crazy idea... Can i separate the display+touch panel together from the main board of the aquaero and connect them with a ribbon cable?


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jagdtigger*
> 
> @Shoggy
> 
> I just had a crazy idea... Can i separate the display+touch panel together from the main board of the aquaero and connect them with a ribbon cable?


iirc, Kpoeticg tried that already, and was never able to get it to work.

Shoggy said it would work only with a very short cable, (few inches at most) if it worked at all.

If you can track down the ends, and use a premium cable, I would expect reasonable success.

Darlene


----------



## jagdtigger

So i need some shielded cabling, cat6 cable would be a good start but i dont know if it can handle the power consumption of the screen...


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jagdtigger*
> 
> So i need some shielded cabling, cat6 cable would be a good start but i dont know if it can handle the power consumption of the screen...


No,

You'd need some good ribbon cable . . I'd look at using the appropriate equivalent to the 80 conductor ribbon cable that was used when they went to 133 MHz on the IDE HDD interface. You'll need to be able to use the correct ends to mate with what's already on the Aquaero.

An LCD screen can run on coin cell power, so no big deal powering it.


----------



## WiSK

I looked into this as well. Wanted to put each half of the Aquaero on either side of a radiator; it'd need about 8 inches. Shoggy said they had trouble finding suitable cable for their Gigant, which needed to traverse a distance much less than that.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *jagdtigger*
> 
> So i need some shielded cabling, cat6 cable would be a good start but i dont know if it can handle the power consumption of the screen...
> 
> 
> 
> No,
> 
> You'd need some good ribbon cable . . I'd look at using the appropriate equivalent to the 80 conductor ribbon cable that was used when they went to 133 MHz on the IDE HDD interface. You'll need to be able to use the correct ends to mate with what's already on the Aquaero.
> 
> An LCD screen can run on coin cell power, so no big deal powering it.
Click to expand...

Is it bad I keep waiting to hear "what's that"


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jagdtigger*
> 
> So i need some shielded cabling, cat6 cable would be a good start but i dont know if it can handle the power consumption of the screen...


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> I looked into this as well. Wanted to put each half of the Aquaero on either side of a radiator; it'd need about 8 inches. Shoggy said they had trouble finding suitable cable for their Gigant, which needed to traverse a distance much less than that.


I remember that discussion. Was like a year ago. Here are some posts relevant to this:

http://www.overclock.net/t/1474470/ocn-aquaero-owners-club/910#post_22430211

http://www.overclock.net/t/1474470/ocn-aquaero-owners-club/920#post_22440227


----------



## jdw101

Hi Can you add me to the club? I have been sitting on these items for a year, daunting and I am a guy that has built his own computer for 25 years now. Selling off my existing workstation and using laptops and my surface while I swallow the 5k to get the rest

Aqualink 6 XT

[img=http://s1.postimg.org/ycw0mf8nj/20150522_211637.jpg]
image uploader

3 PowerAdjust 3's mounted.. why did I buy this /sigh

upload gambar

Two copper all in one rads that have d5's without the aqua computer interfaces which I am going to replace with those versions. One 420 and one 240

posted image


image hosting free

SMA8 case, custom gunmetal I bought for teh build







Full potato sorry


free upload pictures

Going to be reading all 425ish pages. When I bought the aqua rads with reservoir and pumps built in I didn't get the d5's that have the full control board. I am going to replace both pump heads. Honestly I like the Aquacomputer stuff, it's so nicely engineered that I don't really care how much it costs to make it all work because it's just fantastic but I am finding myself buying stuff without much clue.


----------



## jagdtigger

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> No,
> 
> You'd need some good ribbon cable . . I'd look at using the appropriate equivalent to the 80 conductor ribbon cable that was used when they went to 133 MHz on the IDE HDD interface. You'll need to be able to use the correct ends to mate with what's already on the Aquaero.
> 
> An LCD screen can run on coin cell power, so no big deal powering it.


I found one in the bottom of my cabinet...







:

And why the cat6 no good? I can change the pins on both ends to pair up with the aquaeros connectors....


----------



## Costas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jagdtigger*
> 
> And why the cat6 no good?


Cat 6 is no good for this application as it is designed to work differently.

You will find that even using the 80 conductor IDE cable to be a problem in that you really need to utilise every alternate conductor as a ground to shield each individual pin going to and from the LCD display.

The signals to and from the LCD are susceptible to noise and crosstalk therefore extending the length of this connection is problematic if using cables.

Ideally the best way would be to extend the connection with a custom designed PCB using proper shielding techniques but then you are stuck with an extension that is not flexible. Even then the overall length that will allow the LCD to work correctly may still be limited.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Costas*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *jagdtigger*
> 
> And why the cat6 no good?
> 
> 
> 
> Cat 6 is no good for this application as it is designed to work differently.
> 
> You will find that even using the 80 conductor IDE cable to be a problem in that you really need to utilise every alternate conductor as a ground to shield each individual pin going to and from the LCD display.
> 
> The signals to and from the LCD are susceptible to noise and crosstalk therefore extending the length of this connection is problematic if using cables.
> 
> Ideally the best way would be to extend the connection with a custom designed PCB using proper shielding techniques but then you are stuck with an extension that is not flexible. Even then the overall length that will allow the LCD to work correctly may still be limited.
Click to expand...

Flexible pcb material, (think flexible SLi bridge) might be a possibility. . . . . especially if one side was a copper ground plane.

D.


----------



## Costas

Yes...something akin to those standard SLI bridges most people are accustomed to may work ok.


----------



## 47 Knucklehead

The ribbon cable should work, for a short run.

I use them for PC-104 bus connections all the time, and I seriously doubt the controller is pushing more data that an actual computer bus.

http://douglasc.nextmp.net/index.php/fc3a-fc2-pcb-de-104-4.html

I run 800MHz CPU's and connect them to 8-channel RS-232/422 cards.

You could also consider adding an RC Network (Resistor/Capacitor) to help reduce EMI.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/RC_circuit


----------



## jagdtigger

Sure, but in the worst case is 1m cable between the main board and the screen.... Thats why i wanted to use cat6 cable because each pair shielded separately and it has second shielding which covers all 4 pairs...


----------



## 47 Knucklehead

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jagdtigger*
> 
> Sure, but in the worst case is 1m cable between the main board and the screen.... Thats why i wanted to use cat6 cable because each pair shielded separately and it has second shielding which covers all 4 pairs...


1 meter? No way. Sorry.


----------



## Swuell

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> I am running out of ideas but here is how I would proceed to troubleshoot your problem. First, I would try taking the splitter out and testing with different fans if they report the rpm to aquasuite. So test a different fan connected to aquaero directly. Does it report rpm? in the advanced settings fan type is correct (either pwm or voltage). You are using pwm fans but have you any voltage controlled? try it too and see if rpm is reported. If nothing of this give you a different behavior I would try a clean install of Aquasuite and see if fix the problem. If still nothing then perhaps is time for a RMA if it is still within the warranty.


I just got it recently and it's less than a year... :|. The cable had worked before and the fans had reported fine for every other section of the aquaero except for that one fan header and the aquasuite is pwm, also this issue is prevalent even before the installation of the aquasuite. Aquaero itself doesn't report the fan's rpms but reports at 100% not sure how else I'd check fi it even recognizes the fan. I could try some other cable this coming weekend... I'll have to retear my computer apart then. The only thing that changed before I think was the updating of the firmware but it still had worked before and after that for a bit until I reported on the forums. So I'm not sure what the issue is exactly, and the header is set to pwm.


----------



## Swuell

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dagamus NM*
> 
> Read the reviews on that item sorting for lowest first. Seems like your problem is not with the aquero, but with the splitter itself. I bought one very similar when I didn't know as much as I do now. I was shocked that newegg peddled such a low quality product. It fell apart right away.
> 
> Have you considered one of the splitter boards linked maybe 100-200 posts back?


Oh are you serious -- I got this on Amazon! :|... And what splitter boards could you link me and does it require me to solder or anything as I don't have any of the tools necessary. :| I still have the pwm splitter 3x4 or something from the H220x but I'm not sure if that will work though it should right?


----------



## Swuell

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ulti*
> 
> I have a question (might be stupid) but, I have the Aquareo 6 and cannot seem to get it to show up on my hardware devices no matter what I do.
> 
> When first setup, I only had the Aquareo plugged in via USB and had the software installed, didn't work.
> 
> Uninstalled software and plugged it in, didn't work.
> 
> Thought it could be the USB or I plugged it in wrong, ofc not the issue.
> 
> The controller does work and it senses my D5 and flow meter along with all the fans and temp sensors. Just doesn't show up on my computer.


I actually had this issue and I got it to fix somehow I forgot exactly how but it something to do with the way windows is weird about recognizing the aquaero. Since Windows does recognize the aquaero just when you go driver manager you'll see a Device Not listed if not installed correctly. In order to solve it you're going to have to uninstall the aquasuite, uninstall the driver from the device not listed if it's possible. Cold boot down. Unplug ALL USB's that you have linked to your motherboard. restart computer and check your device. You might have to set your boot to usb legacy or to USB legacy @ uefi only if you're uefi booting -- as I did this as part of my step and it eventually worked for me -- and then reshut down after you check your device manager where it shouldn't list anything and everything should be good. Now plug in your USB's back and make sure they're in good enough and boot up your computer and recheck your device manager and it should be alright.


----------



## Swuell

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> drilled a hole on that plate and put the cables up
> 
> 
> 
> 
> in the end it was like this and quite hidden by the rad:


Um... Holy hell am I missing something??! How did you do that... It's so clean... even with me re-routing all my cables it still looks like a mess compared to yours--given I'm using stock cables but still--and trying to put it in the back of the PC is giving me a heart attack as I could barely fit my slide in case back on!


----------



## Mega Man

hey doe the tx10 have that slot too ???!? ( the one Gabrielzm uses in that pic ??!?


----------



## VSG

TX10 has options for you to have the Aquaero above or below the motherboard compartment and route all cables in the 6" gap between the two halves so you would never see the cables at all.


----------



## Mega Man

sigh, i cant wait


----------



## DewMan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> TX10 has options for you to have the Aquaero above or below the motherboard compartment and route all cables in *the 6" gap between the two halve*s so you would never see the cables at all.


It's actually 3.75". But it sure feels like 6"









Makes it so easy to hide almost anything you want. I'm using it for power blocks, cables and hoses.


----------



## NE0XY

Hi, when installing the passive heatsink for the Aquaero 6 XT, do I remove this paper/plastic sticker note thingy?


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NE0XY*
> 
> Hi, when installing the passive heatsink for the Aquaero 6 XT, do I remove this paper/plastic sticker note thingy?


yep. Remove it. And if there is any residue of glue left clean it up with iso alchool or whatever you use to clean cpus









also don't forget the thermal pads before placing the passive heatsink and pay attention to the two different thickness pads and their respective positions.


----------



## Mega Man

it is recommended in the instructions but not needed,

that sticker does not cover ANYTHING that is being cooled IE you dont need to take it off, nor clean up any sticker residue


----------



## Ulti

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Swuell*
> 
> I actually had this issue and I got it to fix somehow I forgot exactly how but it something to do with the way windows is weird about recognizing the aquaero. Since Windows does recognize the aquaero just when you go driver manager you'll see a Device Not listed if not installed correctly. In order to solve it you're going to have to uninstall the aquasuite, uninstall the driver from the device not listed if it's possible. Cold boot down. Unplug ALL USB's that you have linked to your motherboard. restart computer and check your device. You might have to set your boot to usb legacy or to USB legacy @ uefi only if you're uefi booting -- as I did this as part of my step and it eventually worked for me -- and then reshut down after you check your device manager where it shouldn't list anything and everything should be good. Now plug in your USB's back and make sure they're in good enough and boot up your computer and recheck your device manager and it should be alright.


Did that and rebooted and Windows could not install any drivers. Tried to reinstall Aquasuite and nadda.


----------



## kitg90

Hey guys need some advice.

My current setup will be the below:

8 PWM Fans - 8 Way Splitter Swiftech (PWM)
8 PWM Fans - 8 Way Splitter Swiftech (PWM)
8 PWM Fans - 8 Way Splitter Swiftech (PWM)
8 PWM Fans - 8 Way Splitter Swiftech (PWM)
4 PWM Fans - 8 Way Splitter Swiftech (PWM)

2 Darkside LED Strips.

For the above I would like to connect it to the Aquaero 6 XT. I can only see 4 PWM Fan Slots.

Any advice on how I would do this?

Would I need to connect 2 of my 8 way splitters to another splitter and connect that into 1 of the PWM slots?

Thanks guys new to this!


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kitg90*
> 
> Hey guys need some advice.
> 
> My current setup will be the below:
> 
> 8 PWM Fans - 8 Way Splitter Swiftech (PWM)
> 8 PWM Fans - 8 Way Splitter Swiftech (PWM)
> 8 PWM Fans - 8 Way Splitter Swiftech (PWM)
> 8 PWM Fans - 8 Way Splitter Swiftech (PWM)
> 4 PWM Fans - 8 Way Splitter Swiftech (PWM)
> 
> 2 Darkside LED Strips.
> 
> For the above I would like to connect it to the Aquaero 6 XT. I can only see 4 PWM Fan Slots.
> 
> Any advice on how I would do this?
> 
> Would I need to connect 2 of my 8 way splitters to another splitter and connect that into 1 of the PWM slots?
> 
> Thanks guys new to this!


You only need to daisy chain one splitter into another. That would give you 4 channels occupied in the Aquaero all PWM. The led stripes go into the 2 pin headers.


----------



## Mega Man

Fair warning above 8 splits the channel can weaken so try to only use 1 splitter per channel


----------



## kitg90

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> Fair warning above 8 splits the channel can weaken so try to only use 1 splitter per channel


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> You only need to daisy chain one splitter into another. That would give you 4 channels occupied in the Aquaero all PWM. The led stripes go into the 2 pin headers.


Thanks guys if that's the case maybe I can connect 4 of the 8 way splitters to the 4 pwm headers on the aquareo then the last splitter on to the mobo. Wanted to reduce cables flying on the mobo but guess I don't have a choice


----------



## jlakai

Does pwm work when using a unpowered splitter pcb or cables directly into a channel in aq6xt ? Meaning if I make custom splitter cables to control pwm fans.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jlakai*
> 
> Does pwm work when using a unpowered splitter pcb or cables directly into a channel in aq6xt ? Meaning if I make custom splitter cables to control pwm fans.


it does work. However there is a limit of fans you can hook it up to a fan channel both in terms of the 12 v supplied as well as (as Megaman pointed) to the strength of the PWM signal...


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jlakai*
> 
> Does pwm work when using a unpowered splitter pcb or cables directly into a channel in aq6xt ? Meaning if I make custom splitter cables to control pwm fans.


as long as
a) you still connect the 12v/ground
b) the aqauaero can supply enough power ( IE dont power 12 ap30s off the aquaero, most normal. speed fans are fine )


----------



## FrancisJF

I LOVE this controller.










Font used: HACKED


----------



## jlakai

I bought all these pwm fans before I got the aquaero. I came to the conclusion that pwm really does not have a place once using once you have the aquaero managing thermal control. Am I correct in say that ? If that is true then when making a splitter cable I should just do three wires to one fan and just splice two wire into 12/G ?


----------



## kitg90

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FrancisJF*
> 
> I LOVE this controller.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Font used: HACKED


sick.


----------



## jvillaveces

So I finally received my Aquaero 6 Pro, and I've spent the last few days reading up and trying to figure out how to connect it and how to do the wire management -- this thing will introduce a mssive amount of new wiring into my build, as I also got 2 PWM USB pumps and a USB high flow sensor. I think I have it figured out (famous last words), but I am still stumped by the connections for the LEDs: from what I've read, I could run single color LED strips from the 2-pin PWM headers, but I have not been able to find those darn connectors anywhere, or instructions on how to connect them to normal 4-pin led strips. I ended upgetting a bunch of 2-to-3-pin fan adapters from PPCS with the intention of cannibalizing them, but I still need to know how to go from the 2-pin to the LED 4-pin. Any suggestions would be much appreciated!
The alternative would be to get a Farbwerk and use RGB led strips instead. For this route, I also have a few questions:
- The Farbwerk would be connected to AQ6 with a normal 3-pin cable via Aquabus, correct? High or low?
- I already have an RGB strip from my NZXT Hue that I'm taking out to put in the Aquaero. Would this strip be compatible with the Farbwerk or do I need to get a new one?
- I could never get a decent white out of the NZXT Hue. I don't know if this is because of the Hue itself or the strip. Any thoughts?
As always, thanks!


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jlakai*
> 
> I bought all these pwm fans before I got the aquaero. I came to the conclusion that pwm really does not have a place once using once you have the aquaero managing thermal control. Am I correct in say that ? If that is true then when making a splitter cable I should just do three wires to one fan and just splice two wire into 12/G ?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jvillaveces*
> 
> So I finally received my Aquaero 6 Pro, and I've spent the last few days reading up and trying to figure out how to connect it and how to do the wire management -- this thing will introduce a mssive amount of new wiring into my build, as I also got 2 PWM USB pumps and a USB high flow sensor. I think I have it figured out (famous last words), but I am still stumped by the connections for the LEDs: from what I've read, I could run single color LED strips from the 2-pin PWM headers, but I have not been able to find those darn connectors anywhere, or instructions on how to connect them to normal 4-pin led strips. I ended upgetting a bunch of 2-to-3-pin fan adapters from PPCS with the intention of cannibalizing them, but I still need to know how to go from the 2-pin to the LED 4-pin. Any suggestions would be much appreciated!
> The alternative would be to get a Farbwerk and use RGB led strips instead. For this route, I also have a few questions:
> - The Farbwerk would be connected to AQ6 with a normal 3-pin cable via Aquabus, correct? High or low?
> - I already have an RGB strip from my NZXT Hue that I'm taking out to put in the Aquaero. Would this strip be compatible with the Farbwerk or do I need to get a new one?
> - I could never get a decent white out of the NZXT Hue. I don't know if this is because of the Hue itself or the strip. Any thoughts?
> As always, thanks!


1} the 2 pin pwm connector can be bough several locations
http://www.performance-pcs.com/aquacomputer-aquaero-5-6-connector-2pol-for-relay-output.html
http://shop.aquacomputer.de/product_info.php?products_id=1629

you can find it by searching for 53036

2}i have seen 2pin dupont connectors used

All new accessories use the high bus, ( NONE you use or can buy use low speed )

you can use the nzxt strip i think with the Farbwerk - i need to check to be 100% but pretty sure

the white hue is probably the light from the leds


----------



## jvillaveces

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> 1} the 2 pin pwm connector can be bough several locations
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/aquacomputer-aquaero-5-6-connector-2pol-for-relay-output.html
> http://shop.aquacomputer.de/product_info.php?products_id=1629
> 
> you can find it by searching for 53036
> 
> 2}i have seen 2pin dupont connectors used
> 
> All new accessories use the high bus, ( NONE you use or can buy use low speed )
> 
> you can use the nzxt strip i think with the Farbwerk - i need to check to be 100% but pretty sure
> 
> the white hue is probably the light from the leds


Thank you for the quick reply!

Are you sure about the relay connector being compatible with the 2-pin PWM headers? I would have assumed it would be for the "relay" header, which is 3-pin.

Anyway, I found some 2-pin Dupont females here: http://smile.amazon.com/WYPH-2P-Dupont-Housing-Connector/dp/B00R2T002K/ref=sr_1_4?s=audio-video-accessories&ie=UTF8&qid=1432696791&sr=1-4&keywords=2+pin+dupont Is this what you are talking about? They do look like they would fit the headers on the AQ6.

Now, how would I build the wire from either connector to a standard LED 4-pin?

If the culprit for the bluish tint to the "white" on the Hue setup are the strips and not the controller, which strips should I get for the farbwerk to produce true white?


----------



## Mega Man

yes i know those 2 pin sockets that i linked to will work, i have them in mine

the duponts i have just seen people use both 2 pin and 1 pin

light strip hope the ad is correct? or trial and error

as to 2 pin to 4 pin, you cant, the RGB ( 4pin ) is what the Farbwerk is for

the 2 pins are for either LEDS or single color 12vdc light strips,

if you just want white, maybe just buy white LED strips with the color tone you want and use rgb for color, shutting either off when using the other


----------



## kitg90

Just ordered the Aquaero 6 XT!


----------



## jvillaveces

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> yes i know those 2 pin sockets that i linked to will work, i have them in mine
> 
> the duponts i have just seen people use both 2 pin and 1 pin
> 
> light strip hope the ad is correct? or trial and error
> 
> as to 2 pin to 4 pin, you cant, the RGB ( 4pin ) is what the Farbwerk is for
> 
> the 2 pins are for either LEDS or single color 12vdc light strips,
> 
> if you just want white, maybe just buy white LED strips with the color tone you want and use rgb for color, shutting either off when using the other


Thank you for the tip about the relay connectors, I would never have found them on my own! They are already in my cart at PPCS in case I end up going that route. The white strips I had in mind for that alternative were these: http://www.performance-pcs.com/bitfenix-alchemy-connect-15-led-light-strip-300mm-white.html. They use the same 4 pins as RGB strips. So they wouldn't work? Maybe the stuff from Darkside would?

Plan A is white lights that turn red at a certain temperature, which I understand would require the Farbwerk. Plan B is to forgo color change and just do white straight from the AQ6.

If I go with Plan A, how would I connect the Farbwerk to the AQ6? Aquabus?

Thanks a lot for all your help!


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jvillaveces*
> 
> Thank you for the tip about the relay connectors, I would never have found them on my own! They are already in my cart at PPCS in case I end up going that route. The white strips I had in mind for that alternative were these: http://www.performance-pcs.com/bitfenix-alchemy-connect-15-led-light-strip-300mm-white.html. They use the same 4 pins as RGB strips. So they wouldn't work? Maybe the stuff from Darkside would?
> 
> Plan A is white lights that turn red at a certain temperature, which I understand would require the Farbwerk. Plan B is to forgo color change and just do white straight from the AQ6.
> 
> If I go with Plan A, how would I connect the Farbwerk to the AQ6? Aquabus?
> 
> Thanks a lot for all your help!


don't get bitfenix leds mate...just don't. Bad quality. You will waste your money believe I been there...Personally I think white leds are the way to go for a good illumination of the hardware. White produced by true rgb leds is never that white...It always have some tint on it.

darkside leds are considered very good.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jvillaveces*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> yes i know those 2 pin sockets that i linked to will work, i have them in mine
> 
> the duponts i have just seen people use both 2 pin and 1 pin
> 
> light strip hope the ad is correct? or trial and error
> 
> as to 2 pin to 4 pin, you cant, the RGB ( 4pin ) is what the Farbwerk is for
> 
> the 2 pins are for either LEDS or single color 12vdc light strips,
> 
> if you just want white, maybe just buy white LED strips with the color tone you want and use rgb for color, shutting either off when using the other
> 
> 
> 
> Thank you for the tip about the relay connectors, I would never have found them on my own! They are already in my cart at PPCS in case I end up going that route. The white strips I had in mind for that alternative were these: http://www.performance-pcs.com/bitfenix-alchemy-connect-15-led-light-strip-300mm-white.html. They use the same 4 pins as RGB strips. So they wouldn't work? Maybe the stuff from Darkside would?
> 
> Plan A is white lights that turn red at a certain temperature, which I understand would require the Farbwerk. Plan B is to forgo color change and just do white straight from the AQ6.
> 
> If I go with Plan A, how would I connect the Farbwerk to the AQ6? Aquabus?
> 
> Thanks a lot for all your help!
Click to expand...

if you buy rgb you need farberk if you buy single color then you need pwm assuming they are 12vdc ,

rgb you need to check if it is common anode vs common cathode,

http://forum.aquacomputer.de/weitere-foren/english-forum/105464-farbwerk-put-color-in-your-life-new-4x-rgb-led-controller/
please see post 9

http://forum.arduino.cc/index.php?topic=22413.0

you want common anode ( rgb only )

i would recommend buying the roll of led strips from ebay or other trusted source dont pay for any premade strips you will pay some outrageous prices imo

if you cant solder you can also find no solder led strips on ebay


----------



## bkvamme

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> if you buy rgb you need farberk if you buy single color then you need pwm assuming they are 12vdc ,
> 
> rgb you need to check if it is common anode vs common cathode,
> 
> http://forum.aquacomputer.de/weitere-foren/english-forum/105464-farbwerk-put-color-in-your-life-new-4x-rgb-led-controller/
> please see post 9
> 
> http://forum.arduino.cc/index.php?topic=22413.0
> 
> you want common anode ( rgb only )
> 
> i would recommend buying the roll of led strips from ebay or other trusted source dont pay for any premade strips you will pay some outrageous prices imo
> 
> if you cant solder you can also find no solder led strips on ebay


Hi,

As you seem to have some knowledge on the subject.

I am going to use LEDs to light up my case, and will probably purchase a farbwerk controller down the road for some fancy dancy stuff, but for now, white light will suffice. If I order a 5m RGB LED strip off eBay (link), can I power all four connectors (R, G, B and Ground) to obtain white light, or will I have to purchase a white LED strip instead? Similarly, if I only want blue light, I only connect up Blue and Ground? Hoping to do it this way until I scrape up enough money to buy the farbwerk controller (building a new water cooled computer is expensive!).

Will the LED strip I linked to work fine with the farbwerk controller down the road? All of my checkboxes are ticked, but I have very little experience with LEDs. Soldering is not a problem, and I assume that I can just order some 4 pin male connectors (link) when I want to connect it up to the farbwerk controller.


----------



## jeanspaulo

Hello everyone, I'm working on my project and I'm wondering if its possible to make Aquaero 6xt control a Motor. I'm planning to put a little motor on the front door of my cosmos II and I'd like to control it by software so any ideia if its possible to do this?


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jeanspaulo*
> 
> Hello everyone, I'm working on my project and I'm wondering if its possible to make Aquaero 6xt control a Motor. I'm planning to put a little motor on the front door of my cosmos II and I'd like to control it by software so any ideia if its possible to do this?


Yes it would be possible !!! Heck anything is possible with enough time or money!!!!


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bkvamme*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> if you buy rgb you need farberk if you buy single color then you need pwm assuming they are 12vdc ,
> 
> rgb you need to check if it is common anode vs common cathode,
> 
> http://forum.aquacomputer.de/weitere-foren/english-forum/105464-farbwerk-put-color-in-your-life-new-4x-rgb-led-controller/
> please see post 9
> 
> http://forum.arduino.cc/index.php?topic=22413.0
> 
> you want common anode ( rgb only )
> 
> i would recommend buying the roll of led strips from ebay or other trusted source dont pay for any premade strips you will pay some outrageous prices imo
> 
> if you cant solder you can also find no solder led strips on ebay
> 
> 
> 
> Hi,
> 
> As you seem to have some knowledge on the subject.
> 
> I am going to use LEDs to light up my case, and will probably purchase a farbwerk controller down the road for some fancy dancy stuff, but for now, white light will suffice. If I order a 5m RGB LED strip off eBay (link), can I power all four connectors (R, G, B and Ground) to obtain white light, or will I have to purchase a white LED strip instead? Similarly, if I only want blue light, I only connect up Blue and Ground? Hoping to do it this way until I scrape up enough money to buy the farbwerk controller (building a new water cooled computer is expensive!).
> 
> Will the LED strip I linked to work fine with the farbwerk controller down the road? All of my checkboxes are ticked, but I have very little experience with LEDs. Soldering is not a problem, and I assume that I can just order some 4 pin male connectors (link) when I want to connect it up to the farbwerk controller.
Click to expand...

both are correct with the excetion there is not a "ground"

you have +12v then each of the 3 colors is ground for that color in all the LEDS

IE you would connect 12v to "+12v" then connect ground to R,G, and B
you can see it in the image in the link to the strip you posted !~

i would note the " waterproof" leds look less like spotlights and more diffused, either waterproof or not are fine, assuing the ones that are not- are not exposed to water

get the 50/50 imo

http://www.flexfireleds.com/pages/Comparison-between-3528-LEDs-and-5050-LEDs.html

at the bottom ish of the page there are some decentish reads, some not so great -

either way, the place you buy the leds from should be able to provide a amps/meter make sure not to overload what ever you hook it up to * direct to PSU should be no issue but faberwerk is like 1a or so ?!? going from memory but i feel like that answer is wrong ..... wait for shoggy to chime in

you may be interested in these ends too http://www.ebay.com/itm/10mm-4-Pin-Connector-Cable-To-Female-Adapter-RGB-5050-LED-Strip-Light-Solderless-/121321229117?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&var=&hash=item1c3f4f0b3d
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jeanspaulo*
> 
> Hello everyone, I'm working on my project and I'm wondering if its possible to make Aquaero 6xt control a Motor. I'm planning to put a little motor on the front door of my cosmos II and I'd like to control it by software so any ideia if its possible to do this?


depends on what you want, if you just want a simple open close or on off yes, it is

open close you will probably need some end switches on the thing opening/closing on off is easy assuing it is less then 1a just use the relay for either


----------



## jeanspaulo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> both are correct with the excetion there is not a "ground"
> 
> you have +12v then each of the 3 colors is ground for that color in all the LEDS
> 
> IE you would connect 12v to "+12v" then connect ground to R,G, and B
> you can see it in the image in the link to the strip you posted !~
> 
> i would note the " waterproof" leds look less like spotlights and more diffused, either waterproof or not are fine, assuing the ones that are not- are not exposed to water
> 
> get the 50/50 imo
> 
> http://www.flexfireleds.com/pages/Comparison-between-3528-LEDs-and-5050-LEDs.html
> 
> at the bottom ish of the page there are some decentish reads, some not so great -
> 
> either way, the place you buy the leds from should be able to provide a amps/meter make sure not to overload what ever you hook it up to * direct to PSU should be no issue but faberwerk is like 1a or so ?!? going from memory but i feel like that answer is wrong ..... wait for shoggy to chime in
> 
> you may be interested in these ends too http://www.ebay.com/itm/10mm-4-Pin-Connector-Cable-To-Female-Adapter-RGB-5050-LED-Strip-Light-Solderless-/121321229117?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&var=&hash=item1c3f4f0b3d
> depends on what you want, if you just want a simple open close or on off yes, it is
> 
> open close you will probably need some end switches on the thing opening/closing on off is easy assuing it is less then 1a just use the relay for either


Hello Mega Man,
Yes I'm thinking on a simple open/close mechanism with a motor to rotate the engine of the front slid down door of the cosmos II. I'm doing some research on what kind of motor I'll have to get to do this no clue yet.


----------



## Mega Man

12v, talk to it diva !~


----------



## bkvamme

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> both are correct with the excetion there is not a "ground"
> 
> you have +12v then each of the 3 colors is ground for that color in all the LEDS
> 
> IE you would connect 12v to "+12v" then connect ground to R,G, and B
> you can see it in the image in the link to the strip you posted !~
> 
> i would note the " waterproof" leds look less like spotlights and more diffused, either waterproof or not are fine, assuing the ones that are not- are not exposed to water
> 
> get the 50/50 imo
> 
> http://www.flexfireleds.com/pages/Comparison-between-3528-LEDs-and-5050-LEDs.html
> 
> at the bottom ish of the page there are some decentish reads, some not so great -
> 
> either way, the place you buy the leds from should be able to provide a amps/meter make sure not to overload what ever you hook it up to * direct to PSU should be no issue but faberwerk is like 1a or so ?!? going from memory but i feel like that answer is wrong ..... wait for shoggy to chime in
> 
> you may be interested in these ends too http://www.ebay.com/itm/10mm-4-Pin-Connector-Cable-To-Female-Adapter-RGB-5050-LED-Strip-Light-Solderless-/121321229117?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&var=&hash=item1c3f4f0b3d


Thanks a lot!

Yes, I was thinking the same about the water proof strips. I guess I could also use some sanding paper on the plastic to diffuse it further if required.

I'll definitely go for 5050, thanks.

According to the specs, the farbwerk supports 2.5A per channel or up to 8A at the entire controller.

Yeah, saw that type! The problem is that I have to route the cables to the back of my case, so if I go for this solder less solution, I'll have to cut that wire in two and extend it. I'll have to put some thought in it. My case is fairly small, so I have to limit excess wiring wherever possible...

Link to my build log for anybody interested: http://www.overclock.net/t/1555224/build-log-nivlheim-black-blue-theme-jonsbo-cooltek-w2


----------



## Swuell

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ulti*
> 
> Did that and rebooted and Windows could not install any drivers. Tried to reinstall Aquasuite and nadda.


Oh weird it fixed it for me... :|. Did you ever get it resolved?

And concerning my issue so I guess should I try a different cable -- I'm waiitng on a new cable. And I'm sure the Aqauero header itself is working since the header reports the fan's just fine everything 1-4 is @ pwm and reporting 100% usage just the one I was talking about doesn't report the rpm so it has to be the cable--I"m guessing--aside from what one of the others had posted about the cable being spotty.


----------



## VSG

Small update regarding a few Silverstone 180mm fans and the AQ6:

1) FW181 works great, tried a max of 3 per channel so far without issues

2) AP182 has limited control as-is, with average ~1320-2000 RPM before the fans stop at 50% exactly (Sample size 3)

3) FM181 is super weird. Hooked up straight to PSU via Molex or with the shorting adapter and AQ6, it starts off at max speed (~1300 RPM) as you would expect. Ditto with if you have it hooked up to AQ6 and the controller that comes with the fan (but max speed is at Low setting on the knob and slows down as you turn towards H, at least on this one fan here). If connected directly to AQ6 and nothing else, the fan spins at min RPM (300 or so) even at 100%. I have two other FM181s here but has anyone else seen anything like this?


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Small update regarding a few Silverstone 180mm fans and the AQ6:
> 
> 1) FW181 works great, tried a max of 3 per channel so far without issues
> 
> 2) AP182 has limited control as-is, with average ~1320-2000 RPM before the fans stop at 50% exactly (Sample size 3)
> 
> 3) FM181 is super weird. Hooked up straight to PSU via Molex or with the shorting adapter and AQ6, it starts off at max speed (~1300 RPM) as you would expect. Ditto with if you have it hooked up to AQ6 and the controller that comes with the fan (but max speed is at Low setting on the knob and slows down as you turn towards H, at least on this one fan here). If connected directly to AQ6 and nothing else, the fan spins at min RPM (300 or so) even at 100%. I have two other FM181s here but has anyone else seen anything like this?


All the Silverstones with their own speed control that I've played with, (though not the 18X series yet) just don't work with any other speed control attempts.

No doubt it's related to how they implement their own control . . . if they internally control the low side, while an external controller controls the high side, I could see where the low is fast and high is slow puzzle.

They could also be internally PWM controlled, with the little pot adjusting the pulse width.

It might be interesting to try them with one of the Lamptron controllers that controls via the low side, but if the little 80mm Silverstones on the 160 GTX rad on my mini test bench are any indication, that doesn't work very well either.

I ended up just making a little bracket that mounts the speed control pots that come with the fans, and leaving the CW611 channels that they are on at max.

Some one would probably have to sacrifice one, (or more) of the PCBs to reverse engineer it and figure out what would need to be changed wiring wise to be able to bypass its internal speed control circuitry.

D.

If they are internally PWM controlled, it would be easy enough to determine by putting a scope across a sensing resistor in the power line to ground and varying the speed.

Damnnnn, I gotta look into this . . and I have an F121 here to play with.


----------



## VSG

Update 2: All FM181 fans are like that, but with the shorting connector on (or just with the controller connected at highest speed setting) you get full voltage control (280ish RPM to 1300 RPM) with the AQ6









The controller that comes with the AP182 also works with the FM181, and now it works as common sense dictates with L for lowest speed operation and H for highest speed operation. The controller that comes with the FM181 itself has it the other way round. Now I want to try and see if the AP182s can be controlled better with the AQ6 + shorting connector on. Needless to say an email is headed to Silverstone asking about all this.


----------



## DNMock

Quick question, the length of an internal USB cable will function properly the same distance as a basic USB cable correct? Gotta put an extension on the Aquaero to get it to reach the MB.


----------



## bkvamme

Should work just fine. Just make sure that the cable is shielded (five metal pins). An unshielded cable could work aswell, but for extensions I am a bit sceptical.


----------



## DNMock

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bkvamme*
> 
> Should work just fine. Just make sure that the cable is shielded (five metal pins). An unshielded cable could work aswell, but for extensions I am a bit sceptical.


Cool, thought as much. much appreciated


----------



## Costas

I can confirm that it works fine with a longer cable.

I removed a usb cable belonging to an old mouse that I had and placed a 5 way header on the cable so I could connect to my test AQ6XT which I use for testing of water cooled items. This AQ6XT sits on its own on my test bench and I use the modded mouse cable to reach my laptop.

Cable is over 1.8m in length and it works without any issues.


----------



## jvillaveces

My loop is up and running with my new Aquaero 6 Pro, two AC aquabus pumps, a High Flow USB sensor, and a farbwerk. The back of my case (Corsair 760T) is now jam-packed with cables, I had to redo the entire wire management to accommodate all the new cables from the AC stuff, and it took some ingenuity to get the back panel to close again. I still have everything connected by USB (I haven't connected any Aquabus yet). I have a ton of questions!

1. I'm running Corsair AF140 fans. Should they be set up as pwm, speed control or power control?
2. I put in an NZXT USB hub (http://www.performance-pcs.com/nzxt-iu01-usb-2-0-internal-expansion-module.html) and plugged all the AC devices into it. The board is set up with 3 USB 9-pin headers, or 3x5-pin and 3x4-pin. I have AC devices plugged into both types, but AC USB cables are all 5-pin, so the ones going into the 4-pin headers have an unconnected pin. I've read here of other people using this same USB expander so I guess thiss is OK, but I still wonder if I need to get another one so all my devices plug into 5-pin headers (yay, more cables!)
3. I left in place the RGB strip that was already in my case from the NZXT Hue I took out to put in the A6 and connected it to the farbwerk by modding the original Hue cable. The RGBs aren't working. It's very possible that I botched the cable mod, or maybe that strip isn't compatible, but I wanted to ask if there is something I should know, but don't, about getting the farbwerk to work. I did order some AC strips from Aquatuning, so this should sort itself out when they arrive.
4. The farbwerk shows up in Aquasuite as "Farbwerk", buth the pumps and Flow Meter appear as "mps" and are set to device type "High Flow USB". Is this normal? Short of unplugging them all off, and then adding them one by one, is there a way to tell which is which?
5. I installed HWinfo 64, but Aquasuite doesn't see any software sensors. Do I need to do anything in HWinfo or Aquasuite to get them to cooperate?
6. How do I control what goes on the LCD display on the Aquaero? I couldn't find any explnation for the function of the buttons or the rlationship between Aquasuite and the LCD.

Thanks a lot for any advice. I'm very glad I got the Aquaero hardware working, but I am overwhelmed by the software. It's not exactly user-friendly.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jvillaveces*
> 
> My loop is up and running with my new Aquaero 6 Pro, two AC aquabus pumps, a High Flow USB sensor, and a farbwerk. The back of my case (Corsair 760T) is now jam-packed with cables, I had to redo the entire wire management to accommodate all the new cables from the AC stuff, and it took some ingenuity to get the back panel to close again. I still have everything connected by USB (I haven't connected any Aquabus yet). I have a ton of questions!
> 
> 1. I'm running Corsair AF140 fans. Should they be set up as pwm, speed control or power control?
> 2. I put in an NZXT USB hub (http://www.performance-pcs.com/nzxt-iu01-usb-2-0-internal-expansion-module.html) and plugged all the AC devices into it. The board is set up with 3 USB 9-pin headers, or 3x5-pin and 3x4-pin. I have AC devices plugged into both types, but AC USB cables are all 5-pin, so the ones going into the 4-pin headers have an unconnected pin. I've read here of other people using this same USB expander so I guess thiss is OK, but I still wonder if I need to get another one so all my devices plug into 5-pin headers (yay, more cables!)
> 3. I left in place the RGB strip that was already in my case from the NZXT Hue I took out to put in the A6 and connected it to the farbwerk by modding the original Hue cable. The RGBs aren't working. It's very possible that I botched the cable mod, or maybe that strip isn't compatible, but I wanted to ask if there is something I should know, but don't, about getting the farbwerk to work. I did order some AC strips from Aquatuning, so this should sort itself out when they arrive.
> 4. The farbwerk shows up in Aquasuite as "Farbwerk", buth the pumps and Flow Meter appear as "mps" and are set to device type "High Flow USB". Is this normal? Short of unplugging them all off, and then adding them one by one, is there a way to tell which is which?
> 5. I installed HWinfo 64, but Aquasuite doesn't see any software sensors. Do I need to do anything in HWinfo or Aquasuite to get them to cooperate?
> 6. How do I control what goes on the LCD display on the Aquaero? I couldn't find any explnation for the function of the buttons or the rlationship between Aquasuite and the LCD.
> 
> Thanks a lot for any advice. I'm very glad I got the Aquaero hardware working, but I am overwhelmed by the software. It's not exactly user-friendly.


1. Those fans are 3 pin correct? then they are not PWM and you should use either speed control or power control
2. no need. The 5th pin is not required been a second ground (4th pin is the ground)
4. normal all devices appear as MPS. You can rename them. Open the device tab and figure out which is it. Pump tab is different from flow sensor.
5. go to software temp sensor tab (in the sensors tab Aq6) and click use sensor with aquacomputer device. select the datasource.
6. information pages

have you read the manual yet? I recommend it since there is ton of info there.


----------



## jvillaveces

Gabriel, thanks for the quick reply! I have read the manual that came with the Aquaero, which says nothing about Aquasuite. The manual that came with the other devices explains a little bit, but not much. I did find a pdf version of a manual online and I have been studying it like crazy, but the learning curve is pretty steep.
Thanks for the tip about the USB plugs, I really couldn't fit anything else in the back of my case, so I'm glad I won't need another expander.
What is the difference between speed control and power control for the fans?
When I try to select the data source in the software sensor, the list is blank. I rebooted after installing HWinfo, but that didn't make it appear in Aquasuite.
As to device identification, I guess I will just unplug them all and add them one by one so I'm sure not to configure a pump as a flow meter or vice versa. Not looking forward to that...


----------



## Archea47

Hey Aquaero-heads,

I'm looking to join this club. I have a Case Labs S8 and some cooling goodies on the way to transplant my current gaming rig (Icarus Wings) into. I read the manual and would appreciate some insight before into this (I believe worthwhile) investment.

*Parts ordered that I need*(want) *an Aquaero for* (Aquaero as I already bought the $4 CL mounts):

Dual D5 (single loop) (EK) 2X PWM
Rad 1 - 3x PWM
Rad 2 - 3X PWM
Rad 3 - 3X PWM
Rad 4 - 2X PWM
Rad 5 - 2X PWM
Exhaust 1 1X PWM
Exhaust 2 1X PWM
No LEDs or other ancillary devices to power

The radiators have the 3K RPM 120mm Vardars. The exhaust case fans are ~1200-1500RPM but one's a 120mm and the other a 140mm

Channels / *Questions*:

I understand with the EK D5s I won't get the enhanced pump functionality. Since they're identical I believe they _could_ go on the same fan channel, but will there be too much draw? EK's website for a D5 PWM says 23W of power consumption and the Aquaero 6 channels say 30W
Rads 1-5 all have the same fans and I wish to run them at the same speed. It's a group of 13, however, - *how many is appropriate for a single channel?*
Exhaust 1 & 2 I can run off the motherboard if I we use up the other channels, so will only be connected if there's capacity left over
*With those requirements, how many channels and which model of Aquaero would be required?*
Would the 4 channels of a Aquaero 6 be enough to power all rad fans and pump?

Another item I'm looking to clarify is *thermal probes*, flow meters and *approaches to creating curves off temperatures, CPU utilization, etc*.

*What to use as the variable to control fan and pump speed*
In the past I've used manual/dial voltage regulation to change fan and pump speed, so I'm pretty green in this area. I'd like to reduce the noise (3K fans) when not necessary for others around. I also imagine the pump can stay at a more steady rate than the fans regardless of sensor input.

What's the recommended approach for dynamically programming the Aquaero, which inputs and other methods? I use the computer for gaming and reading about computers. I do push the envelope with overclocking to the point that I need to run my fans at 100% currently. But I'm almost tripling my radiator capacity and increasing the average fan speed so they shouldn't have to run full blast all the time anymore.

*Variables to control pump & fans*

CPU Temperature - I see there's an option for a software sensor to create profiles off of CPU temperature. Does this work? Viable and good idea? Reliable? Where does this third party software come from, and is it running on Windows or the controller itself?
Temperature Sensors - the PPCs pages and the manual on the Aquaro 5&6 in Scope of Delivery say it comes with "four temperature sensors, length approx. 70 cm." Are these for air? Water? Can I use them effectively to control my pump and fans? If water temp requires buying another sensor, which are supported and don't leak?
Motherboard PWM - I don't see this in the manual. I suppose if I wanted to go this route I would use PWM splitters.
What else should I be considering/aware of that I'm missing?
Finally, is there a good reason to have a flow meter, and which have the best track record for not leaking?

*Thanks for any help Team!*


----------



## bkvamme

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jvillaveces*
> 
> Gabriel, thanks for the quick reply! I have read the manual that came with the Aquaero, which says nothing about Aquasuite. The manual that came with the other devices explains a little bit, but not much. I did find a pdf version of a manual online and I have been studying it like crazy, but the learning curve is pretty steep.
> Thanks for the tip about the USB plugs, I really couldn't fit anything else in the back of my case, so I'm glad I won't need another expander.
> What is the difference between speed control and power control for the fans?
> When I try to select the data source in the software sensor, the list is blank. I rebooted after installing HWinfo, but that didn't make it appear in Aquasuite.
> As to device identification, I guess I will just unplug them all and add them one by one so I'm sure not to configure a pump as a flow meter or vice versa. Not looking forward to that...


1. Speed Control adjusts the voltage based on selected RPM, while power control operates solely on adjusting the voltage.

2. You need to enable the AquaSuite Service. See the settings at the bottom of the UI list (not under any device sub tree), should be a install service option. After doing that AquaSuite picked up on my HWiNFO sensors and vice versa. Very nice functionally!

3. Did you change the device address before plugging them in? You're supposed to connect them up individually and select a device address before joining multiple devices up.


----------



## jvillaveces

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bkvamme*
> 
> 1. Speed Control adjusts the voltage based on selected RPM, while power control operates solely on adjusting the voltage.


Thank you
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bkvamme*
> 
> 2. You need to enable the AquaSuite Service. See the settings at the bottom of the UI list (not under any device sub tree), should be a install service option. After doing that AquaSuite picked up on my HWiNFO sensors and vice versa. Very nice functionally! .


The settings under the Aquasuite tab show the service is installed and running, but nothing shows up as a possible datasource for software sensors
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bkvamme*
> 
> 3. Did you change the device address before plugging them in? You're supposed to connect them up individually and select a device address before joining multiple devices up.


I haven't connected the Aquabus yet -- all the cables are dangling, nothing is connected to anything else. I didn't realize the one-by-one limitation applied to USB connections as well, and apparently the software can pick them up just fine, but there's no way of telling what's what, so I will have to unplug everything and add them back one by one. I just hope this clarifies things without messing anything up


----------



## bkvamme

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Archea47*
> 
> Channels / *Questions*:
> 
> I understand with the EK D5s I won't get the enhanced pump functionality. Since they're identical I believe they _could_ go on the same fan channel, but will there be too much draw? EK's website for a D5 PWM says 23W of power consumption and the Aquaero 6 channels say 30W
> Rads 1-5 all have the same fans and I wish to run them at the same speed. It's a group of 13, however, - *how many is appropriate for a single channel?*
> Exhaust 1 & 2 I can run off the motherboard if I we use up the other channels, so will only be connected if there's capacity left over
> *With those requirements, how many channels and which model of Aquaero would be required?*
> Would the 4 channels of a Aquaero 6 be enough to power all rad fans and pump?
> 
> Another item I'm looking to clarify is *thermal probes*, flow meters and *approaches to creating curves off temperatures, CPU utilization, etc*.
> 
> *What to use as the variable to control fan and pump speed*
> In the past I've used manual/dial voltage regulation to change fan and pump speed, so I'm pretty green in this area. I'd like to reduce the noise (3K fans) when not necessary for others around. I also imagine the pump can stay at a more steady rate than the fans regardless of sensor input.
> 
> What's the recommended approach for dynamically programming the Aquaero, which inputs and other methods? I use the computer for gaming and reading about computers. I do push the envelope with overclocking to the point that I need to run my fans at 100% currently. But I'm almost tripling my radiator capacity and increasing the average fan speed so they shouldn't have to run full blast all the time anymore.
> 
> *Variables to control pump & fans*
> 
> CPU Temperature - I see there's an option for a software sensor to create profiles off of CPU temperature. Does this work? Viable and good idea? Reliable? Where does this third party software come from, and is it running on Windows or the controller itself?
> Temperature Sensors - the PPCs pages and the manual on the Aquaro 5&6 in Scope of Delivery say it comes with "four temperature sensors, length approx. 70 cm." Are these for air? Water? Can I use them effectively to control my pump and fans? If water temp requires buying another sensor, which are supported and don't leak?
> Motherboard PWM - I don't see this in the manual. I suppose if I wanted to go this route I would use PWM splitters.
> What else should I be considering/aware of that I'm missing?
> Finally, is there a good reason to have a flow meter, and which have the best track record for not leaking?
> 
> *Thanks for any help Team!*


Hi,

1. Key word, PWM Splitters. Get yourself a couple of PWM splitters (Powered if desired, while I haven't tested this one specifically, you get the grisp (link)), and tidy up cable management simultanously.
2. I would set it up so that all radiator fans run of the same channel (daisy chained splitters), both of the pumps from one channel (PWM splitter, possibly externally powered to take that out of the equation), and possibly the exhaust fans on one channel each, as they have different RPM ranges.
3. The four channels of the AQ6 should be enough to be able to control them, as PWM is very much easier when in comes to daisy chaining multiple fans compared to normal voltage regulated fans. 13 fans is definitly doable using PWM.

Controlling:
1. CPU temperatures come from a third party hardware monitor (I use HWiNFO). Seems perfectly stable, but I haven't figured out a way to have HWiNFO to run as a service, so I need to log on for it to pick up temps. Haven't spend much time looking though, should be relatively straight forward. If you want a failsafe, I would try to control everything using onboard sensors as they will (once configured) work independently of any operating system you are running/not running. I would setup both the radiator fans and the pumps to be controlled by a water temperature curve. The curve for the pump could be a bit steeper and run at higher RPMs at default.
2. The included sensors are air temperature sensors. I use one for ambient temp, one for temp at the top of my case, one for temp at the bottom of my case, and one for temps in my secondary compartement (containing PSU/HDDs etc). I would strongly recommend getting a inline temperature sensor, and use this to control both the radiator fans and the pump. For exhaust fans you can use one of the air temp sensors


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Archea47*
> 
> Hey Aquaero-heads,
> 
> I'm looking to join this club. I have a Case Labs S8 and some cooling goodies on the way to transplant my current gaming rig (Icarus Wings) into. I read the manual and would appreciate some insight before into this (I believe worthwhile) investment.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> *Parts ordered that I need*(want) *an Aquaero for* (Aquaero as I already bought the $4 CL mounts):
> 
> Dual D5 (single loop) (EK) 2X PWM
> Rad 1 - 3x PWM
> Rad 2 - 3X PWM
> Rad 3 - 3X PWM
> Rad 4 - 2X PWM
> Rad 5 - 2X PWM
> Exhaust 1 1X PWM
> Exhaust 2 1X PWM
> No LEDs or other ancillary devices to power
> 
> The radiators have the 3K RPM 120mm Vardars. The exhaust case fans are ~1200-1500RPM but one's a 120mm and the other a 140mm
> 
> 
> Channels / *Questions*:
> 
> I understand with the EK D5s I won't get the enhanced pump functionality. Since they're identical I believe they _could_ go on the same fan channel, but will there be too much draw? EK's website for a D5 PWM says 23W of power consumption and the Aquaero 6 channels say 30W
> Rads 1-5 all have the same fans and I wish to run them at the same speed. It's a group of 13, however, - *how many is appropriate for a single channel?*
> Exhaust 1 & 2 I can run off the motherboard if I we use up the other channels, so will only be connected if there's capacity left over
> *With those requirements, how many channels and which model of Aquaero would be required?*
> Would the 4 channels of a Aquaero 6 be enough to power all rad fans and pump?
> 
> Another item I'm looking to clarify is *thermal probes*, flow meters and *approaches to creating curves off temperatures, CPU utilization, etc*.
> 
> *What to use as the variable to control fan and pump speed*
> In the past I've used manual/dial voltage regulation to change fan and pump speed, so I'm pretty green in this area. I'd like to reduce the noise (3K fans) when not necessary for others around. I also imagine the pump can stay at a more steady rate than the fans regardless of sensor input.
> 
> What's the recommended approach for dynamically programming the Aquaero, which inputs and other methods? I use the computer for gaming and reading about computers. I do push the envelope with overclocking to the point that I need to run my fans at 100% currently. But I'm almost tripling my radiator capacity and increasing the average fan speed so they shouldn't have to run full blast all the time anymore.
> 
> *Variables to control pump & fans*
> 
> CPU Temperature - I see there's an option for a software sensor to create profiles off of CPU temperature. Does this work? Viable and good idea? Reliable? Where does this third party software come from, and is it running on Windows or the controller itself?
> Temperature Sensors - the PPCs pages and the manual on the Aquaro 5&6 in Scope of Delivery say it comes with "four temperature sensors, length approx. 70 cm." Are these for air? Water? Can I use them effectively to control my pump and fans? If water temp requires buying another sensor, which are supported and don't leak?
> Motherboard PWM - I don't see this in the manual. I suppose if I wanted to go this route I would use PWM splitters.
> What else should I be considering/aware of that I'm missing?
> Finally, is there a good reason to have a flow meter, and which have the best track record for not leaking?
> 
> *Thanks for any help Team!*


PWM pumps have their own power connection. They don't take power from the Aquaero unless you modified them to do it.

The temp sensors that come with the Aquaero are standard sensors found with many fan controllers. They can be used as surface mount sensors to take the temp of any object or just placed in open air. Water sensors are nothing more than the same things attached to a fitting. Depending on your setup it can be easier to just use the standard sensors instead of buying dedicated water sensors. I just placed a few directly onto radiator tanks and that gives a better water temp than a retail water sensor.


----------



## jvillaveces

After a tedious process of unplugging all MPS devices, adding them back one by one, and configuring their Aquabus addresses properly so that they are not all "12" now, all the while calling myself all sorts of unflattering names, my system is back up. My biggest remaining problem is my inability to configure software sensors. When I try, I pull up a blank box:


The service is started and active in Windows (see below). I installed HWinfo yesterday, so I believe it's the latest version. I'm running Win 8.1 Pro x64. Any ideas?


----------



## bkvamme

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jvillaveces*
> 
> After a tedious process of unplugging all MPS devices, adding them back one by one, and configuring their Aquabus addresses properly so that they are not all "12" now, all the while calling myself all sorts of unflattering names, my system is back up. My biggest remaining problem is my inability to configure software sensors. When I try, I pull up a blank box:
> 
> 
> The service is started and active in Windows (see below). I installed HWinfo yesterday, so I believe it's the latest version. I'm running Win 8.1 Pro x64. Any ideas?


Check in the settings in HWinfo, I believe you have to activate something there. Not entirely sure, and my system is down atm (waiting for fittings...) , so I can't check.


----------



## WHIMington

Does anyone knows how many MPS device I can power up through the using of 4 pin Aquabus? I know the max number for MPS device on Aquabus is 4 (12-15) but I am not sure how many of those I can skip using USB cable after the initial setup is done.

P.S, Also, I was trying to mod my MPS 200 flow sensor into a 400+ like fast_fact did, well, as it turns out, 7mm metric drill is very hard to find here







, and the closest I can find is a 9/32 drill, which is close to 7.15mm, now I don't know what to do...


----------



## jvillaveces

I ran into another weird problem. Per some recommendations in this thread, I created a virtual sensor I called "Ambient-Loop Delta" with the temp difference between ambient (measured with a temp probe above the back fan) and coolant temp (measured with a Monsoon temp probe fitting), and created a curve controller for the fans based on that delta.
I have two rads, and two banks of fans: top and front. On top I have two Corsair AF140 Quiet Edition, in front I have two Corsair SP140 LED. The top fans respond perfectly to the new controller. The front fans, on the other hand, shut down as soon as I created the controller, and I have not been able to get them to spin up again. To try to fix this, I deleted the front fans as an output for the controller, no result. I created a new fixed value controller for them, at 100%, no result. I enabled start boost, no result. I configured their minimum and maximum voltages and maximum rpm per Corsair's specs, no result.
The damn things are just sitting dead! They are led fans and they are not even glowing, so I know they are not getting any current. How do I fix this?


----------



## electro2u

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jvillaveces*
> 
> I ran into another weird problem. Per some recommendations in this thread, I created a virtual sensor I called "Ambient-Loop Delta" with the temp difference between ambient (measured with a temp probe above the back fan) and coolant temp (measured with a Monsoon temp probe fitting), and created a curve controller for the fans based on that delta.
> I have two rads, and two banks of fans: top and front. On top I have two Corsair AF140 Quiet Edition, in front I have two Corsair SP140 LED. The top fans respond perfectly to the new controller. The front fans, on the other hand, shut down as soon as I created the controller, and I have not been able to get them to spin up again. To try to fix this, I deleted the front fans as an output for the controller, no result. I created a new fixed value controller for them, at 100%, no result. I enabled start boost, no result. I configured their minimum and maximum voltages and maximum rpm per Corsair's specs, no result.
> The damn things are just sitting dead! They are led fans and they are not even glowing, so I know they are not getting any current. How do I fix this?
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Need to see how you have the Controller set up, perhaps.

Here's mine:


----------



## jvillaveces

There's nothing wrong with the Aquaero and there's nothing wrong with the fans. As it often happens, the problem is with the user! When I was unplugging and replugging stuff in the back of the PC to get the AC devices correctly set up, I inadvertently disconnected the front fans. Hooking them back up solved the problem instantly. Duh!
Thanks to everyone in this group for your advice, you have been immensely helpful.


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WHIMington*
> 
> Does anyone knows how many MPS device I can power up through the using of 4 pin Aquabus? I know the max number for MPS device on Aquabus is 4 (12-15) but I am not sure how many of those I can skip using USB cable after the initial setup is done.
> 
> P.S, Also, I was trying to mod my MPS 200 flow sensor into a 400+ like fast_fact did, well, as it turns out, 7mm metric drill is very hard to find here
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> , and the closest I can find is a 9/32 drill, which is close to 7.15mm, now I don't know what to do...


You can connect the full maximum of 4 MPS devices with the 4pin aquabus cables (personally tested this). The sensors use 5V but its a tiny, tiny amperage they draw.

To mod the MPS 200 I highly recommend going smaller than 7mm. the 9/32 is way too big to give you nice accurate readings. It'll give you high flow and low restriction for sure but you need that restriction to get accurate results at flow rates that loops actually run at. Use a drill bit that is as close as you can find to 6.5mm and be sure to do the drilling slowly and carefully preferably on a bench press drill, and slowly increasing the size of bit used. The material being drilled is very thin so going straight to the largest size you want to use could cause damage.

I would use a 1/4" or 17/64 at most. That will give you something equivalent to an MPS 300 or 350. Still plenty of range for flow that you could possibly achieve in a loop but higher resolution and accuracy. I have modded a couple this way (but with metric bits) and it works great. In fact I wouldn't buy a 400 again, just 100's and 200's for modding, but I have a very accurate king flow meter to calibrate them with.

Of course any mod (even using metric bits the same size as the standard models) will mean you must create your own calibration config.


----------



## jvillaveces

HWinfo64 integration issue solved: it is necessary to enable auto-logging in HWinfo, then it appears in Aquasuite software sensors. Cool!

Farbwerk issue solved: rgb strip was plugged in backwards. So my cable mod worked! Now I need to get another rgb strip, for the NZXT one doesn't really want to display the colors set by the farbwerk. Has anyone tried the PPCs strips? I like them because you can get them tailed with rgb 4-pin connector -- I am a menace with a soldering iron! Of course the other alternative is Aquacomputer strips, I assume they cooperate nicely with the farbwerk.

I'm still having a hard time configuring the LCD display. According to the manual, it should show only what is actually connected, but mine shows all the temp sensors with "--" after them (I only have one plugged into the AQ6, the coolant sensor is plugged into the flowmeter), as well as all the possible aquabus devices (poweradjusts, tubemeters, etc) that don't exist in my PC. The menu system on that thing is impenetrable and I can't find any information online for this.


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jvillaveces*
> 
> HWinfo64 integration issue solved: it is necessary to enable auto-logging in HWinfo, then it appears in Aquasuite software sensors. Cool!
> 
> Farbwerk issue solved: rgb strip was plugged in backwards. So my cable mod worked! Now I need to get another rgb strip, for the NZXT one doesn't really want to display the colors set by the farbwerk. Has anyone tried the PPCs strips? I like them because you can get them tailed with rgb 4-pin connector -- I am a menace with a soldering iron! Of course the other alternative is Aquacomputer strips, I assume they cooperate nicely with the farbwerk.
> 
> I'm still having a hard time configuring the LCD display. According to the manual, it should show only what is actually connected, but mine shows all the temp sensors with "--" after them (I only have one plugged into the AQ6, the coolant sensor is plugged into the flowmeter), as well as all the possible aquabus devices (poweradjusts, tubemeters, etc) that don't exist in my PC. The menu system on that thing is impenetrable and I can't find any information online for this.


Most RGB strips are different to the Fabwerk aquacomp strips in that they are common annode and most normal strips are common cathode so are not compatible

The LCD display is configured using the 'Information pages" tab on the Aquaero tab. You add and subtract pages from the list of available ones on the left to the ones being used on the right. There is a drop down menu under "available screens" to choose what type of page to add, Temp sensors, Fans, etc


The red X removes a page from the displayed screens list and new pages can be dragged and dropped from available screens


----------



## Mega Man

umm >.>
i d k where you buy your rgb strips, but 99.99 % here in the us, and on ebay ( IE CHINA ) and the ones i imported from china are all common anode NOT common cathode


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> umm >.>
> i d k where you buy your rgb strips, but 99.99 % here in the us, and on ebay ( IE CHINA ) and the ones i imported from china are all common anode NOT common cathode


Edit. Oh that's right the Fabwerk uses common anode. Maybe its just the old single RGB on the Aquaero that uses the unusual type


----------



## Archea47

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bkvamme*
> 
> 1. Key word, PWM Splitters. Get yourself a couple of PWM splitters (Powered if desired, while I haven't tested this one specifically, you get the grisp (link)), and tidy up cable management simultanously.
> 2. I would set it up so that all radiator fans run of the same channel (daisy chained splitters), both of the pumps from one channel (PWM splitter, possibly externally powered to take that out of the equation), and possibly the exhaust fans on one channel each, as they have different RPM ranges.
> [...]
> 2. The included sensors are air temperature sensors. I use one for ambient temp, one for temp at the top of my case, one for temp at the bottom of my case, and one for temps in my secondary compartement (containing PSU/HDDs etc). I would strongly recommend getting a inline temperature sensor, and use this to control both the radiator fans and the pump. For exhaust fans you can use one of the air temp sensors


PWM splitters - got it! I'm thinking I would get 4 powered PWM splitters - a 1x8 (swiftech) for the top two rads, a 1x4 (gelid) for the bottom rad, a 1x4 for the two front rads, and a 1x4 for the pumps. I should then be able to plug the CPU_FAN cable of each splitter into a passive 1x4 PWM splitter cable to a single channel output on the Aquaero. Is this a workable and sensible idea?

For the inline water temperature sensor (love this idea), is there a particular manufacturer to buy or watch out for? Anything to look for to suggest a sensor's Aquaero compatible?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> The temp sensors that come with the Aquaero are standard sensors found with many fan controllers. They can be used as surface mount sensors to take the temp of any object or just placed in open air. Water sensors are nothing more than the same things attached to a fitting. Depending on your setup it can be easier to just use the standard sensors instead of buying dedicated water sensors. I just placed a few directly onto radiator tanks and that gives a better water temp than a retail water sensor.


Do you just sand the paint off the radiator end tank and electrical tape the sensor to it? I don't mind the idea of using the provided sensors.

*Aquaero 5 vs 6*
What are the key differences between the two? With the radiators and pump getting external power via PWM splitters I only have the two lower-draw exhaust fans actually drawing power. I do like the hard key look of the 5 better. But if the 6 is a better choice I'd like to make the informed purchase. Also, any useful functions of the remote that you don't get with the front display?


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Archea47*
> 
> PWM splitters - got it! I'm thinking I would get 4 powered PWM splitters - a 1x8 (swiftech) for the top two rads, a 1x4 (gelid) for the bottom rad, a 1x4 for the two front rads, and a 1x4 for the pumps. I should then be able to plug the CPU_FAN cable of each splitter into a passive 1x4 PWM splitter cable to a single channel output on the Aquaero. Is this a workable and sensible idea?
> 
> For the inline water temperature sensor (love this idea), is there a particular manufacturer to buy or watch out for? Anything to look for to suggest a sensor's Aquaero compatible?
> Do you just sand the paint off the radiator end tank and electrical tape the sensor to it? I don't mind the idea of using the provided sensors.
> 
> *Aquaero 5 vs 6*
> What are the key differences between the two? With the radiators and pump getting external power via PWM splitters I only have the two lower-draw exhaust fans actually drawing power. I do like the hard key look of the 5 better. But if the 6 is a better choice I'd like to make the informed purchase. Also, any useful functions of the remote that you don't get with the front display?


These days any water sensors you buy from a watercooling specialty retailer should be the standard 10K Ohm NTC type that the Aquaero and most other fan controllers use. Koolance made some different ones so just watch out for them.

On my rads the end tanks are not painted so that might be something to test. I use EK PE's and put the sensors under the aluminium panels with the foam padding on top.

There is no visual difference between the Aq 5 and 6. The Pro has hard keys and the XT has touch sensitive keys. I have Pro's because I prefer the look.
The main difference is the 5 has only a single PWM fan output vs 4 on the 6 model, and the way power is handled means the Aq5 gets quite hot when running fans at low volts where the 6 actually gets cooler.
For the small price difference the 6 is well worth it unless you get the 5 LT model.


----------



## Archea47

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> These days any water sensors you buy from a watercooling specialty retailer should be the standard 10K Ohm NTC type that the Aquaero and most other fan controllers use. Koolance made some different ones so just watch out for them.
> 
> On my rads the end tanks are not painted so that might be something to test. I use EK PE's and put the sensors under the aluminium panels with the foam padding on top.
> 
> There is no visual difference between the Aq 5 and 6. The Pro has hard keys and the XT has touch sensitive keys. I have Pro's because I prefer the look.
> The main difference is the 5 has only a single PWM fan output vs 4 on the 6 model, and the way power is handled means the Aq5 gets quite hot when running fans at low volts where the 6 actually gets cooler.
> For the small price difference the 6 is well worth it unless you get the 5 LT model.


Thanks for all the info! I'll go with the Aquaero 6 Pro as I'm all PWM now

Is the heatsink for the 6 on the first post in this thread recommended for my use?

I'm still very curious about this sensor mounted to the rad. Do you have a picture? Have you (or others here?) had an inline sensor for comparison?


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Archea47*
> 
> Thanks for all the info! I'll go with the Aquaero 6 Pro as I'm all PWM now
> 
> Is the heatsink for the 6 on the first post in this thread recommended for my use?
> 
> I'm still very curious about this sensor mounted to the rad. Do you have a picture? Have you (or others here?) had an inline sensor for comparison?


The heatsink is really not needed unless you are drawing a lot of power through it at full 12V. It is good to have though simply because it improves the lableing of headers.

I have sensors mounted to the rads as well as a Bitspower plug sensor and the sensors on the rad are more responsive to change. When I first put sensors on the rads I had Aquacomp and Phobya inline sensors to compare to. The inline sensors are really measuring the temp of the fitting and a small brass fitting changes temp slower than the large surface area of a radiator tank. I do remember now someone saying they had trouble with painted Alphacool rads but I never tested it myself.

This is a mix of rad sensors and plug. Either works just fine so choose whatever is easiest for you to do.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> umm >.>
> i d k where you buy your rgb strips, but 99.99 % here in the us, and on ebay ( IE CHINA ) and the ones i imported from china are all common anode NOT common cathode
> 
> 
> 
> Edit. Oh that's right the Fabwerk uses common anode. Maybe its just the old single RGB on the Aquaero that uses the unusual type
Click to expand...

That is correct


----------



## fast_fate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WHIMington*
> 
> Does anyone knows how many MPS device I can power up through the using of 4 pin Aquabus? I know the max number for MPS device on Aquabus is 4 (12-15) but I am not sure how many of those I can skip using USB cable after the initial setup is done.
> 
> P.S, Also, I was trying to mod my MPS 200 flow sensor into a 400+ like fast_fact did, well, as it turns out, 7mm metric drill is very hard to find here
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> , and the closest I can find is a 9/32 drill, which is close to 7.15mm, now I don't know what to do...


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> You can connect the full maximum of 4 MPS devices with the 4pin aquabus cables (personally tested this). The sensors use 5V but its a tiny, tiny amperage they draw.
> 
> To mod the MPS 200 I highly recommend going smaller than 7mm. the 9/32 is way too big to give you nice accurate readings. It'll give you high flow and low restriction for sure but you need that restriction to get accurate results at flow rates that loops actually run at. Use a drill bit that is as close as you can find to 6.5mm and be sure to do the drilling slowly and carefully preferably on a bench press drill, and slowly increasing the size of bit used. The material being drilled is very thin so going straight to the largest size you want to use could cause damage.
> 
> I would use a 1/4" or 17/64 at most. That will give you something equivalent to an MPS 300 or 350. Still plenty of range for flow that you could possibly achieve in a loop but higher resolution and accuracy. I have modded a couple this way (but with metric bits) and it works great. In fact I wouldn't buy a 400 again, just 100's and 200's for modding, but I have a very accurate king flow meter to calibrate them with.
> 
> Of course any mod (even using metric bits the same size as the standard models) will mean you must create your own calibration config.


Definately no larger than 7mm - that is the maximum size you should consider.
Jaks advice is very good (as usual) and the 6.5mm metric bit size is a safer option.

The 7mm bore on the left (Vs stock 400) is cutting it close to *not* having the differential pressure needed to get any sort of accurate reading.


----------



## bkvamme

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Archea47*
> 
> I'm still very curious about this sensor mounted to the rad. Do you have a picture? Have you (or others here?) had an inline sensor for comparison?


I could very possibly compare the two. I have a inline sensor at the outlet of my 280mm rad, and could attach a air temp sensor to the radiator chamber. Temps should be fairly identical, but it never hurts to test.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> I have sensors mounted to the rads as well as a Bitspower plug sensor and the sensors on the rad are more responsive to change. When I first put sensors on the rads I had Aquacomp and Phobya inline sensors to compare to. The inline sensors are really measuring the temp of the fitting and a small brass fitting changes temp slower than the large surface area of a radiator tank. I do remember now someone saying they had trouble with painted Alphacool rads but I never tested it myself.


The bitspower plug sensor is different from the AC/Phobya sensors right? The bitspower one has a nipple that is submerged in the flow (adding restriction, but should give fairly accurate readings), while the AC sensors do not.


----------



## Archea47

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bkvamme*
> 
> I could very possibly compare the two. I have a inline sensor at the outlet of my 280mm rad, and could attach a air temp sensor to the radiator chamber. Temps should be fairly identical, but it never hurts to test.


It'd be pretty spectacular if you could give it a try







thanks in advance if you get a chance to verify


----------



## bkvamme

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Archea47*
> 
> It'd be pretty spectacular if you could give it a try
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> thanks in advance if you get a chance to verify


No problem. Will report back (hopefully this weekend







)


----------



## Barefooter

I've only had my Aquaero 6 XT for a few months. Last night I walked into my office and found the front touch screen clear plastic piece fell off, and was laying on the floor!

Any tips on securing it in place better?


----------



## 47 Knucklehead

Pop Rivets.









I kid, I kid.

Did just the lens fall off but not the metal bezel?


----------



## Barefooter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *47 Knucklehead*
> 
> Pop Rivets.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I kid, I kid.
> 
> Did just the lens fall off but not the metal bezel?


Yes just the lens part.


----------



## Artah

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Barefooter*
> 
> I've only had my Aquaero 6 XT for a few months. Last night I walked into my office and found the front touch screen clear plastic piece fell off, and was laying on the floor!
> 
> Any tips on securing it in place better?


if you are talking about the plastic that was stuck with some gooey glue that seems to melt at room temperature then same thing happened to mine except for me it was the first day I received it. I used sandpaper on the round edge to make it fit better and added epoxy glue to make sure it stayed on, it's been stuck for a couple of months now thanks to members that suggested it when I first had the issue.

Edit. some spelling error corrections but the grammar errors are intact!


----------



## Archea47

One of my colleagues is telling me to check out the NZXT Sentry

I see the cost is far lower. What are the selling points to justify purchasing an Aquaero over the Sentry? Higher sampling rate?


----------



## Artah

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Archea47*
> 
> One of my colleagues is telling me to check out the NZXT Sentry
> 
> I see the cost is far lower. What are the selling points to justify purchasing an Aquaero over the Sentry? Higher sampling rate?


I have both on 3 different rigs and the sentry with digital display for about 35 bucks pale in comparison to the aquaero 6 xt in terms of functionality. I suggest doing research on both and what you want it to do. I can't speak for other versions of the nzxt though.


----------



## Lukeroge

The sentry is just a generic average fan controller with a pretty looking screen instead of knobs and buttons. It's nothing like an Aquaero


----------



## Archea47

Thanks!

How about technical differentiators (not including proprietary peripherals)?

Just waiting for the 6 to come back in stock ...


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Archea47*
> 
> Thanks!
> 
> How about technical differentiators (not including proprietary peripherals)?
> 
> Just waiting for the 6 to come back in stock ...


aquaero is capable of pwm the sentry is not (unless they released a new version of it I am unaware of). Aquaero+aquasuite allows you flexibility of control to program the fan controller to do the job, so far as I known all sentry series are manual control. Those are two big differences for me.


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Archea47*
> 
> Thanks!
> 
> How about technical differentiators (not including proprietary peripherals)?
> 
> Just waiting for the 6 to come back in stock ...


The Aquaero is full blown programmable cooling computer. Other fan controllers are just fan controllers.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Archea47*
> 
> Thanks!
> 
> How about technical differentiators (not including proprietary peripherals)?
> 
> Just waiting for the 6 to come back in stock ...
> 
> 
> 
> The Aquaero is full blown programmable cooling computer. Other fan controllers are just fan controllers.
Click to expand...

^^^^^^^ This

The A6 has been absolutely a game changer for higher end system integration, and being able to take advantage of the growing number of PWM fans and pumps.

I don't build a system without an A6 or two any more than I'd build one without a CPU.

Darlene


----------



## InfoSeeker

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WHIMington*
> 
> Does anyone knows how many MPS device I can power up through the using of 4 pin Aquabus? I know the max number for MPS device on Aquabus is 4 (12-15) but I am not sure how many of those I can skip using USB cable after the initial setup is done.


The USB connection and the aquabus connection do not duplicate function on an MPS device. The USB connection is used to configure/calibrate the MPS device, while the aquabus connection allows the aquaero/aquasuite to use the output of the MPS device for control and display.

Some folks remove the USB cables after initial calibration to reduce cable clutter. I kept all 4 of my MPS devices connected via both USB & aquabus, in case of a firmware update or if recalibration is necessary. Additionally, according to paragraph 2, section '12.2. Sensor configuration flow sensor mps flow' in the MPS manual, as quoted below, keeping a USB connection for MPS flow sensors is most useful.

Quote:


> For accurate flow measurement, the zero flow value must be calibrated regularly,
> therefore "Automatic calibration of zero flow" is activated by default. If activated,
> the sensor will perform a calibration of the zero flow value when the pump is not
> running, for example if the PC is in standby and the sensor is still powered by USB
> connection. If you decide not to use automatic calibration, you will have to manually
> perform a calibration on a regular basis by clicking "Set current flow to zero"
> when the pump is not running.


----------



## josetortola

I have a (noob) question.

I'm using a couple of PCs with custom liquid coolings and their respectives AQ on them, connected in the same network.

Aquaero is a must-to in my rigs. And I've found Aquasuite as a very usefull and adictive data display.

I allways use HWInfo64 as source for software sensors. And also HWInfo64 reads Aquaero data. So it is possible to have an Aquaero temp as "software sensor" in Aquaero vía HWInfo64. As far as I can see, this is pointless in an single PC.

But... is it possible to pass HWInfo64 readings via network?. Don't know if other third party software allows that. But I was thinking about passing Aquaero data to other computer in the network (directly from Aquaero or Aquasuite I think is impossible, but maybe with some software like HWInfo) so you can display in a single Aquasuite's overview page the data from that PC and other network PCs Aquaeros.

Maybe it is uselles for most users, but as an adiccted to control, I would like to see in a single screen the values of all my watercooled rigs









Thanks in advance for your patience!


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *InfoSeeker*
> 
> The USB connection and the aquabus connection do not duplicate function on an MPS device. The USB connection is used to configure/calibrate the MPS device, while the aquabus connection allows the aquaero/aquasuite to use the output of the MPS device for control and display.
> 
> Some folks remove the USB cables after initial calibration to reduce cable clutter. I kept all 4 of my MPS devices connected via both USB & aquabus, in case of a firmware update or if recalibration is necessary. Additionally, according to paragraph 2, section '12.2. Sensor configuration flow sensor mps flow' in the MPS manual, as quoted below, keeping a USB connection for MPS flow sensors is most useful.


Auto calibration of zero flow does not require a USB connection to be maintained. You just set the MPS flow sensor to do it itself. If you wanted to do it manually, then you would need the USB connection but otherwise it just does it automatically every time the system restarts.

Older firmwares did not pass all the same data along Aquabus as the USB connection, for example to have d5 pump speed used to require the USB connection. The latest firmwares make the USB far less necessary after configuration.
I have changed from maintaining both connections on all devices to just 4 pin Aquabus now.


----------



## WHIMington

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *InfoSeeker*
> 
> The USB connection and the aquabus connection do not duplicate function on an MPS device. The USB connection is used to configure/calibrate the MPS device, while the aquabus connection allows the aquaero/aquasuite to use the output of the MPS device for control and display.
> 
> Some folks remove the USB cables after initial calibration to reduce cable clutter. I kept all 4 of my MPS devices connected via both USB & aquabus, in case of a firmware update or if recalibration is necessary. Additionally, according to paragraph 2, section '12.2. Sensor configuration flow sensor mps flow' in the MPS manual, as quoted below, keeping a USB connection for MPS flow sensors is most useful.


That is clearly what I intented for, the motherboard I use (GIGABYTE Z97x SOC Force)only have 1 internal USB 9pin header and another 2 integrated USB port for easy benching, i need to connect the case front panel IO on the 9pin port which left me the 2 intergrated USB port, each can only support a single device as daisy chain is not allowed, I wanted to add another Mps but I do not have the USB to support it, so the logical thing is to either use a NZXT USB hub (don't want to as that increase cable clutter), or just use aquabus.


----------



## Barefooter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Artah*
> 
> if you are talking about the plastic that was stuck with some gooey glue that seems to melt at room temperature then same thing happened to mine except for me it was the first day I received it. I used sandpaper on the round edge to make it fit better and added epoxy glue to make sure it stayed on, it's been stuck for a couple of months now thanks to members that suggested it when I first had the issue.
> 
> Edit. some spelling error corrections but the grammar errors are intact!


Epoxy glue? Like super glue?


----------



## Artah

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Barefooter*
> 
> Epoxy glue? Like super glue?


Nooo don't use super glue because of the fumes that will melt into the screen. Glad someone reminded me of that. I used the actual mix epoxy glue. No fumes that destroy plastic/surfaces.


----------



## Barefooter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Artah*
> 
> Nooo don't use super glue because of the fumes that will melt into the screen. Glad someone reminded me of that. I used the actual mix epoxy glue. No fumes that destroy plastic/surfaces.


Got it. I think I have some two part epoxy layin' around. Thanks!


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Barefooter*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Artah*
> 
> Nooo don't use super glue because of the fumes that will melt into the screen. Glad someone reminded me of that. I used the actual mix epoxy glue. No fumes that destroy plastic/surfaces.
> 
> 
> 
> Got it. I think I have some two part epoxy layin' around. Thanks!
Click to expand...

I use the GE Premium Silicon glue in clear, since it stays flexible and so far has worked on several units where the plastic face fell off.

Be sure to check that the plastic doesn't need to be sanded on its rounded end a little to fit in properly.

If it's popping out because the fit is too tight, (I swear that's what she said) then no glue in the world will keep it in place permanently.

Darlene


----------



## Barefooter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> I use the GE Premium Silicon glue in clear, since it stays flexible and so far has worked on several units where the plastic face fell off.
> 
> Be sure to check that the plastic doesn't need to be sanded on its rounded end a little to fit in properly.
> 
> If it's popping out because the fit is too tight, (I swear that's what she said) then no glue in the world will keep it in place permanently.
> 
> Darlene


ROFL! Thanks Darlene. I about fell out of my chair from laughing at that last line


----------



## jvillaveces

Since all my fans are connected to the AQ6, I set my BIOS to ignore the CPU fan header. This works, but I'm not happy with things this way. The AQ6 Pro has an "RPM" port, and according to the manual, it can be configured to send an RPM signal, but I haven't been able to figure out how, or if I can hook it up to my CPU fan header. (how) can this be accomplished?
I have two D5 USB+Aquabus pumps, connected by USB and Aquabus, but I'm not using their pwm connections, i.e. they are not in an AQ fan header. Maybe I could just hook up one of these cables to the CPU fan header?


----------



## RoostrC0gburn

so... where is the cheapest place to buy an aquero nowadays? i think it used to be frozencpu, but... anyway, i think i saw some discussion that it may be cheaper to buy direct from germany due to exchange rates? i also don't know much about aquatuning.us. might be a viable option?

second question - benefits of pro vs xt? i have a 6 pro in my main rig, but building a little LAN box and trying to decide. leaning toward another 6 pro. it also looks like they're cheaper on Aquacomputer.de


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RoostrC0gburn*
> 
> so... where is the cheapest place to buy an aquero nowadays? i think it used to be frozencpu, but... anyway, i think i saw some discussion that it may be cheaper to buy direct from germany due to exchange rates? i also don't know much about aquatuning.us. might be a viable option?
> 
> second question - benefits of pro vs xt? i have a 6 pro in my main rig, but building a little LAN box and trying to decide. leaning toward another 6 pro. it also looks like they're cheaper on Aquacomputer.de


I think still is Aq directly due to vat and exchange rate. In regard to pro and xt is a matter of looks/style actually.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *josetortola*
> 
> I have a (noob) question.
> 
> I'm using a couple of PCs with custom liquid coolings and their respectives AQ on them, connected in the same network.
> 
> Aquaero is a must-to in my rigs. And I've found Aquasuite as a very usefull and adictive data display.
> 
> I allways use HWInfo64 as source for software sensors. And also HWInfo64 reads Aquaero data. So it is possible to have an Aquaero temp as "software sensor" in Aquaero vía HWInfo64. As far as I can see, this is pointless in an single PC.
> 
> But... is it possible to pass HWInfo64 readings via network?. Don't know if other third party software allows that. But I was thinking about passing Aquaero data to other computer in the network (directly from Aquaero or Aquasuite I think is impossible, but maybe with some software like HWInfo) so you can display in a single Aquasuite's overview page the data from that PC and other network PCs Aquaeros.
> 
> Maybe it is uselles for most users, but as an adiccted to control, I would like to see in a single screen the values of all my watercooled rigs
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks in advance for your patience!


i would ask hwinfo, from our input in his forums he is the one that was able to get ( in conjunction with aqua computer ) hwinfo to send the info to the aquaero, and then later in conjunction with aqua computer was able to read the aquaero !~ but it didnt happen till someone suggested it !~
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jvillaveces*
> 
> Since all my fans are connected to the AQ6, I set my BIOS to ignore the CPU fan header. This works, but I'm not happy with things this way. The AQ6 Pro has an "RPM" port, and according to the manual, it can be configured to send an RPM signal, but I haven't been able to figure out how, or if I can hook it up to my CPU fan header. (how) can this be accomplished?
> I have two D5 USB+Aquabus pumps, connected by USB and Aquabus, but I'm not using their pwm connections, i.e. they are not in an AQ fan header. Maybe I could just hook up one of these cables to the CPU fan header?


you can or you can use the aq, ( MAKE SURE YOU CONNECT THE AQ CORRECT !!! _ you want a 3 pin * that comes with the aq ) connect it to the RPM ( NOT THE FLOW-- i speak from personal experience ) then the easiest method is this


let me know if you have any questions


----------



## jvillaveces

Thanks MegaMan! I have my Aquasuite set up exactly like that, but the mobo doesn't see it. I did use a fan extension from the AQ, and the 3-pin cable that came with the AQ connected to it, so I could route it the way I wanted it. Do you think the extension is creating a problem?


----------



## Mega Man

it could but you may have to power the aquaero off to get it to work ! ~

you can also do it by hand


----------



## Archea47

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> ^^^^^^^ This
> 
> The A6 has been absolutely a game changer for higher end system integration, and being able to take advantage of the growing number of PWM fans and pumps.
> 
> I don't build a system without an A6 or two any more than I'd build one without a CPU.
> 
> Darlene


Diva I'd offer you a job referral but I'm starting to believe you're already in the biz ;-)


----------



## electro2u

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Archea47*
> 
> Diva I'd offer you a job referral but I'm starting to believe you're already in the biz ;-)


I dont know why but ive found myself speculating on this before. Sometim3s i wonder if she's sort of an Edward Snowden type. Maybe defense work or banking. Something about off shore accounts maybe. Sorry Diva if this is inappropriate.


----------



## Mega Man

i think she makes the missile that blows him up XD


----------



## WHIMington

Some say she drinks rocket fuel as if it is water, and if you know too much about her, Jason Bourne will appear at your door step. But all we know is that this is non of our business.









On a serious note, she did said she is living on an island, maybe she is the only electronics engineer/mechanic on that island and have a business there, we will never know.

P.S. Damn it, I miss Top gear.


----------



## dodgethis

Installing the Aquaero and Farbwerk tonight


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WHIMington*
> 
> Some say she drinks rocket fuel as if it is water, and if you know too much about her, Jason Bourne will appear at your door step. But all we know is that this is non of our business.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On a serious note, she did said she is living on an island, maybe she is the only electronics engineer/mechanic on that island and have a business there, we will never know.
> 
> P.S. Damn it, I miss Top gear.


I drink rocket fuel all the time. Liquid hydrogen dioxide. Just spilt it into liquid hydrogen and oxygen and rockets away!


----------



## josetortola

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> i would ask hwinfo, from our input in his forums he is the one that was able to get ( in conjunction with aqua computer ) hwinfo to send the info to the aquaero, and then later in conjunction with aqua computer was able to read the aquaero !~ but it didnt happen till someone suggested it !


Thank you very much for the idea.

I've asked there about it.


----------



## iBruce

Good morning gents, and the lovely Darlene,

I've got an Aquaero 6 purchased December 2013, the first version or batch that was made available. I'm considering running an EK D5 PWM pump from one of the four channels but have heard early versions have issues.

Is this correct and will purchasing a new Aquaero 6 solve the issue fully or will only partial control of the D5 PWM be restored?

Thank you I appreciate any assistance you can offer.


----------



## Mega Man

If I understand your question correctly.

It isn't the aq that is at fault. It is Lang d5s. They don't have a pull up circuit. You can search diva mod ( sorry I am on mobile and it is a pain) in this thread and you can find what you have to do. Otherwise aquacomputer makes a d5 (and the only pwm d5 that does ) that already has
Has the pull up circuit

The problem you are thinking of is when controlling more then 4 corsair pwm fans


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iBruce*
> 
> Good morning gents, and the lovely Darlene,
> 
> I've got an Aquaero 6 purchased December 2013, the first version or batch that was made available. I'm considering running an EK D5 PWM pump from one of the four channels but have heard early versions have issues.
> 
> Is this correct and will purchasing a new Aquaero 6 solve the issue fully or will only partial control of the D5 PWM be restored?
> 
> Thank you I appreciate any assistance you can offer.


It is somewhat variable as to what results you can expect. Some report it working fine and others get no control.
The first version Aquaero had issues with running multiples of some PWM fans ... corsair in particular, and the later version was changed to work better with them so more could be run at the same time with full range of speed control.
As far as I know both versions normally have trouble running PWM D5's which is why Aquacomputer made their Aquaero friendly version.

Edit: Sniped by Mega Man, My answer is waaaay better though.


----------



## Dagamus NM

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> I drink rocket fuel all the time. Liquid hydrogen dioxide. Just spilt it into liquid hydrogen and oxygen and rockets away!


You drink hydrogen peroxide? Gross, too strong of an oxidizer.

I do believe you drink Dihydrogen monoxide which as we all know is water.


----------



## Shoggy

To my knowledge our D5 PWM variant is the only D5 pump that really sticks to the official PWM specifications which is also the reason why this pump works fine with the aquaero and other D5 pumps do not. The main problem is that these other pumps have no integrated pull-up circuit which is mandatory.

http://www.formfactors.org/developer/specs/4_Wire_PWM_Spec.pdf

Page 9, point 2.1.4: "This signal must be pulled up to a maximum of 5.25V *within the fan.*"

Page 11, point 2.4: "The trace from PWM output to the fan header must not have a pull up or pull down. The pull up is *located in the fan hub.* The presence of a pull up on the motherboard will alter the fan response to the PWM Duty Cycle. In some cases this *may prevent the fan from achieving full speed* even with the Hardware Monitor device issuing a 100% duty cycle."

The other mentioned "problem" has nothing to do with it and is a different story addressed to the way how Corsair has designed their SP PWM series fans. We were so generous to fix that for them our customers


----------



## iBruce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> It is somewhat variable as to what results you can expect. *Some report it working fine* and others get no control.
> The first version Aquaero had issues with running multiples of some PWM fans ... corsair in particular, and the later version was changed to work better with them so more could be run at the same time with full range of speed control.
> As far as I know both versions normally have trouble running PWM D5's which is why Aquacomputer made their Aquaero friendly version.
> 
> Edit: Sniped by Mega Man, My answer is waaaay better though.


Thank you so much, it's an EK D5 pump I had to buy it to get the EK clean pump top they only sell in combination, so I'm trying to use it with my Aquaero 6. Have an AquaComputer D5 USB pump also which I love, works perfectly with my A6. Getting ready to buy another Aquaero 6 this time with the blue LEDs, so if I dedicate one channel on the A6 to PWM and plug in the pump PWM connector it may or may not work?

The EK pump brand Laing D5 is LOWARA, by Xylem water systems Germany, I know that sounds like trouble, but I only got the pump to get the EK clean plexi top.









Thanks Shoggy for the new A6 with Blue LEDs waiting for them to stock at PPCS, blue PWR LEDs are all over my office gear and the CaseLabs front PWR switch so it will blend well.

http://s296.photobucket.com/user/iBruceEVGA/media/IMG_2766_zpsca68tjwy.jpg.html


----------



## InfoSeeker

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RoostrC0gburn*
> 
> second question - benefits of pro vs +xt? i have a 6 pro in my main rig, but building a little LAN box and trying to decide. leaning toward another 6 pro. it also looks like they're cheaper on Aquacomputer.de


The PRO & XT are essentially the same device with the following differences:
a different panel look,
the PRO uses hard buttons for input,
the XT uses soft LED buttons for input (red or blue option),
the XT includes the infrared remote

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RoostrC0gburn*
> 
> so... where is the cheapest place to buy an aquero nowadays? i think it used to be frozencpu, but... anyway, i think i saw some discussion that it may be cheaper to buy direct from germany due to exchange rates? i also don't know much about aquatuning.us. might be a viable option?


If you are in the USA, you can buy direct from aquacomputer, aquatuning or performance PCs.
Performance PCs is out of stock and @ $199.95 the most expensive option.
Aquatuning @ $161.45 + $9.69 customs fee + $8.00 shipping totals to $179.14.
aquacomputer @ 125.97 EUR (xcl vat) + 34.90 EUR shipping totals 160.87 EUR or $181.37 according to Google.


----------



## RoostrC0gburn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *RoostrC0gburn*
> 
> so... where is the cheapest place to buy an aquero nowadays? i think it used to be frozencpu, but... anyway, i think i saw some discussion that it may be cheaper to buy direct from germany due to exchange rates? i also don't know much about aquatuning.us. might be a viable option?
> 
> second question - benefits of pro vs xt? i have a 6 pro in my main rig, but building a little LAN box and trying to decide. leaning toward another 6 pro. it also looks like they're cheaper on Aquacomputer.de
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I think still is Aq directly due to vat and exchange rate. In regard to pro and xt is a matter of looks/style actually.
Click to expand...

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *InfoSeeker*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *RoostrC0gburn*
> 
> second question - benefits of pro vs +xt? i have a 6 pro in my main rig, but building a little LAN box and trying to decide. leaning toward another 6 pro. it also looks like they're cheaper on Aquacomputer.de
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The PRO & XT are essentially the same device with the following differences:
> a different panel look,
> the PRO uses hard buttons for input,
> the XT uses soft LED buttons for input (red or blue option),
> the XT includes the infrared remote
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *RoostrC0gburn*
> 
> so... where is the cheapest place to buy an aquero nowadays? i think it used to be frozencpu, but... anyway, i think i saw some discussion that it may be cheaper to buy direct from germany due to exchange rates? i also don't know much about aquatuning.us. might be a viable option?
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If you are in the USA, you can buy direct from aquacomputer, aquatuning or performance PCs.
> Performance PCs is out of stock and @ $199.95 the most expensive option.
> Aquatuning @ $161.45 + $9.69 customs fee + $8.00 shipping totals to $179.14.
> aquacomputer @ 125.97 EUR (xcl vat) + 34.90 EUR shipping totals 160.87 EUR or $181.37 according to Google.
Click to expand...

thanks, guys! REP you both


----------



## Artah

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RoostrC0gburn*
> 
> thanks, guys! REP you both


The remote is a nice bling but after a few days I never touched it again. I'm most likely going to clean it/repackage and take out the battery for storage to keep it clean until I resell mine (reselling it is likely never going to happen). If anyone's done creative things with the remote, do share.


----------



## jvillaveces

If this has been discussed before I apologize, but a search of this thread didn't bring anything up. Now that Microsoft wants us all to migrate to Windows 10 in a few weeks, do we know if Aquasuite will work in W10? I would hate the surprise that after the upgrade I would lose some or all functionality, and would like to be able to plan accordingly. Is there any information out there about this?


----------



## bkvamme

Hi,

Does anybody know what AWG size I should use for my MCP350 pump? Thinking about using a 3pin fan extension (I have recrimped the 4pin molex to a 3pin fan header). The pump should draw around 1-1.5A under full load, and I am not sure if the AWG22 typically used for fan wires is sufficient..
Thanks!


----------



## Barefooter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bkvamme*
> 
> Hi,
> 
> Does anybody know what AWG size I should use for my MCP350 pump? Thinking about using a 3pin fan extension (I have recrimped the 4pin molex to a 3pin fan header). The pump should draw around 1-1.5A under full load, and I am not sure if the AWG22 typically used for fan wires is sufficient..
> Thanks!


I would use 18 gauge. Check out this chart, 22 gauge is only good up to .92 amps.

http://www.powerstream.com/Wire_Size.htm


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Barefooter*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *bkvamme*
> 
> Hi,
> 
> Does anybody know what AWG size I should use for my MCP350 pump? Thinking about using a 3pin fan extension (I have recrimped the 4pin molex to a 3pin fan header). The pump should draw around 1-1.5A under full load, and I am not sure if the AWG22 typically used for fan wires is sufficient..
> Thanks!
> 
> 
> 
> I would use 18 gauge. Check out this chart, 22 gauge is only good up to .92 amps.
> 
> http://www.powerstream.com/Wire_Size.htm
Click to expand...

18 is monstrous overkill, and won't fit into the connector.

Use the 22 and you'll be fine . . it's rated for 7 amps . .use the chassis wiring column in that spec table.

Darlene


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Artah*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *RoostrC0gburn*
> 
> thanks, guys! REP you both
> 
> 
> 
> The remote is a nice bling but after a few days I never touched it again. I'm most likely going to clean it/repackage and take out the battery for storage to keep it clean until I resell mine (reselling it is likely never going to happen). If anyone's done creative things with the remote, do share.
Click to expand...

My favorite thing (for the remote ) is for htpcs. Keyboard and mouse. For picking movies it is awesome.

Now if only aquacomputer (@shoggy) will release the ir transmitter. One remote for my htpc/tv/ everything....... yes please


----------



## Barefooter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> 18 is monstrous overkill, and won't fit into the connector.
> 
> Use the 22 and you'll be fine . . it's rated for 7 amps . .use the chassis wiring column in that spec table.
> 
> Darlene


Ok listen to Darlene, she's far more experienced than I am. I tend to "overkill" when in doubt lol.


----------



## Anfs

Hi all.
I am putting the finishing touches to my Th10a Build and was hoping someone could help me with a small problem with the aquareo 6.
Where do I connect the d5 Vario pumps 3 pin rpm signal cable .
Does it connect to a fan header ?
Thankyou In advance
Cheers


----------



## Mega Man

Yes. As it is only for rpm imo connect it to a fan header on the mobo and monitor with hwinfo


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> 18 is monstrous overkill, and won't fit into the connector.
> 
> Use the 22 and you'll be fine . . it's rated for 7 amps . .use the chassis wiring column in that spec table.
> 
> Darlene


Darlene i know what you are saying about the chassis wiring but 18 ga will fit into connecteds and i known this for fact!!!! Also these are power supply wires so I do not trust chassis wireing table!!


----------



## bkvamme

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Barefooter*
> 
> I would use 18 gauge. Check out this chart, 22 gauge is only good up to .92 amps.
> 
> http://www.powerstream.com/Wire_Size.htm


Had a look at some tables, and quickly discovered that they were pretty much useless, as most of them only discuss solid cables, not stranded. Also, 18AWG (stranded computer wire atleast) carries a lot more than 0.92A. Just think about it, if 18AWG was only rated for 0.92A, you could bare use 1 pump per cable from the PSU









Anyways, thank you for the reply, it's much appreciated!

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> 18 is monstrous overkill, and won't fit into the connector.
> 
> Use the 22 and you'll be fine . . it's rated for 7 amps . .use the chassis wiring column in that spec table.
> 
> Darlene


Thanks, I knew 18 was to large, but was not sure on whether I had to use 20 gauge. 22 it is then, saves me from finding my crimpers again! Thanks!


----------



## bkvamme

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> Darlene i know what you are saying about the chassis wiring but 18 ga will fit into connecteds and i known this for fact!!!!


18 gauge will fit into the terminals? I assume you fill be able to fit the 18gauge wire into the plastic connector, but after crimping a fan terminal to the 18gauge? The terminal is pretty bulky as is, and the 20gauge I have used for some of my cables was a snug fit.


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bkvamme*
> 
> 18 gauge will fit into the terminals? I assume you fill be able to fit the 18gauge wire into the plastic connector, but after crimping a fan terminal to the 18gauge? The terminal is pretty bulky as is, and the 20gauge I have used for some of my cables was a snug fit.


I have done it and will send pictures tomorrow


----------



## Shoggy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jvillaveces*
> 
> do we know if Aquasuite will work in W10?


It does.


----------



## jvillaveces

Yay! Thank you Shoggy


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dagamus NM*
> 
> You drink hydrogen peroxide? Gross, too strong of an oxidizer.
> 
> I do believe you drink Dihydrogen monoxide which as we all know is water.


Yes that is what I was trying to say. How embarrassing to get the science of your nerd joke wrong. I Knew it not long after I posted it and just cringed.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iBruce*
> 
> Thank you so much, it's an EK D5 pump I had to buy it to get the EK clean pump top they only sell in combination, so I'm trying to use it with my Aquaero 6. Have an AquaComputer D5 USB pump also which I love, works perfectly with my A6. Getting ready to buy another Aquaero 6 this time with the blue LEDs, so if I dedicate one channel on the A6 to PWM and plug in the pump PWM connector it may or may not work?


Ha ha, I know what you mean about the EK pump. I can only get it here by buying a d5 vario that I don't need at all but I am still thinking about getting it.
Even worse is the full clear version of the DDC pump top that is only available by buying a full X kit.

The pump most likely won't work properly but it can be quite easily modified with a couple dollars in parts and it will be fine.

Also, variable pump speed is really only a luxury. During initial setup if you just find a speed that is low vibration but good enough flow then just leaving it at that works just as well, if not better, than actively varying pump speed.
D5 pumps rely on impellers that are carefully balanced at the factory to spin smoothly. The vibration produced varies a lot along the full speed range of the pump such that very often the pump is quieter at full speed than at some mid speeds. So picking a low vibration speed and leaving it there can be much quieter than having a pump moving through it's louder speeds all the time.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> 18 is monstrous overkill, and won't fit into the connector.
> 
> Use the 22 and you'll be fine . . it's rated for 7 amps . .use the chassis wiring column in that spec table.
> 
> Darlene
> 
> 
> 
> Darlene i know what you are saying about the chassis wiring but 18 ga will fit into connecteds and i known this for fact!!!! Also these are power supply wires *so I do not trust chassis wireing table!*!
Click to expand...

You should . . . . this exactly what chassis wiring is. . . . Buss distribution is another thing

If I understood the original question, he's wanting to run his D5 via voltage control, (another discussion entirely) from his A6, so he's looking to make an adapter cable from molex to 3 pin fan.

Depending on the insulation type, 18 gage may or may not, work with 3 pin fan connectors, and since 18 is massive overkill for a <2A pump, plus the stiffness of the wire and the additional stress it puts on the PCB connection pins, it was wise to advise against it.

D.


----------



## bkvamme

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> You should . . . . this exactly what chassis wiring is. . . . Buss distribution is another thing
> 
> If I understood the original question, he's wanting to run his D5 via voltage control, (another discussion entirely) from his A6, so he's looking to make an adapter cable from molex to 3 pin fan.
> 
> Depending on the insulation type, 18 gage may or may not, work with 3 pin fan connectors, and since 18 is massive overkill for a <2A pump, plus the stiffness of the wire and the additional stress it puts on the PCB connection pins, it was wise to advise against it.
> 
> D.


I wish I had a D5! Only a MCP350, which only draws 0,93A according to the label. Checked the AWG table and the AWG26 which is what the Noiseblocker extension cord is, should handle up to 2.2A. Might make a new extension never the less, try to match it with the cable that was already on the pump. It's only 15-20mm too short, so that really sucks.


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iBruce*
> 
> The EK pump brand Laing D5 is LOWARA, by Xylem water systems Germany, I know that sounds like trouble, but I only got the pump to get the EK clean plexi top.


Xylem bought Laing several years ago. Their pumps are branded Laing Thermotech in the US and Lowara in Europe. Since EK is based in Slovenia they source components in Europe. So the name on the sticker makes sense, no trouble


----------



## IT Diva

@Shoggy

I have 4 of the copper fin 420 AMS rads, currently configured as 2 X 840's, single circuit. and 2 of the copper fin 240's configured as a 480 single circuit.

When I bought the 420 rads, 3 were dual circuit, as that was the only stock available.

When I bought the 240 rads, I was able to get both of them as single circuit so that I had an extra set of end caps to make the dual circuit 840 a single circuit 840.

I'd like to repurpose the rads, and need to have them all as single circuit, so I need to get 3 sets of single circuit end caps.

I looked on the website, but can only find the connection block, no end caps . . . .

Would it be possible you could help out a loyal AC customer and find a way to get me 3 sets of single circuit end caps?

Thanks in advance,

Darlene


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> I use the GE Premium Silicon glue in clear, since it stays flexible and so far has worked on several units where the plastic face fell off.
> 
> Be sure to check that the plastic doesn't need to be sanded on its rounded end a little to fit in properly.
> 
> If it's popping out because the fit is too tight, (I swear that's what she said) then no glue in the world will keep it in place permanently.
> 
> Darlene


great. Just changed the faceplate and had to sand down a bit the acrylic to stop popping out. But the faceplate also need a bit of glue. Seems that one would do the trick too now to find something similar locally...


----------



## InfoSeeker

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> @Shoggy
> 
> I have 4 of the copper fin 420 AMS rads, currently configured as 2 X 840's, single circuit. and 2 of the copper fin 240's configured as a 480 single circuit.
> 
> When I bought the 420 rads, 3 were dual circuit, as that was the only stock available.
> 
> When I bought the 240 rads, I was able to get both of them as single circuit so that I had an extra set of end caps to make the dual circuit 840 a single circuit 840.
> 
> I'd like to repurpose the rads, and need to have them all as single circuit, so I need to get 3 sets of single circuit end caps.
> 
> I looked on the website, but can only find the connection block, no end caps . . . .
> 
> Would it be possible you could help out a loyal AC customer and find a way to get me 3 sets of single circuit end caps?
> 
> Thanks in advance,
> 
> Darlene


I believe the best way to get an answer to that question is to email them directly at [email protected] always works for me.


----------



## Archea47

I've done my reading on the Diva mod for my EK D5 PWM pumps. No questions there

Before I purchase a handful of PWM splitters, are there compatibility issues with certain models? These are the two I'm looking at:


Switftech 8-way splitter-box:
http://www.performance-pcs.com/swiftech-8-way-pwm-splitter-box-sata.html

Gelid 4-way splitter cable:
http://www.performance-pcs.com/gelid-pwm-1-to-4-splitter.html#Customer-Reviews

Both have external power (these are for PWM fans) and only pull tach/rpm from one of the connected fans

These guys' listing doesn't look to mention if they only pull one tach signal but it looks nice:

ModMyToys splitter boxes?
http://www.performance-pcs.com/modmytoys-4-pin-pwm-low-profile-power-distribution-pcb-8-way-block.html
And then for my dual D5 pump PWM cable to put the Diva mod resistors&diode onto, simple PWM splitters with single tach:

EK 2 and 3 fan PWM splitters
http://www.performance-pcs.com/ek-cable-y-splitter-2-fan-pwm-10cm.html
The plan is, channel:

9 PWM EK Vardar Furious (3K) RPM fans
6 fans on one 8-fan block (swiftech or modmytoys)
3 fans on one 4-fan powered PWM splitter (gelid)
The two splitters joined with one of the cheap EK pwm splitters to the Aquaero 6 channel
6 PWM EK Vardar Furious (3K) RPM fans
4 fans on one 4-fan powered PWM splitter (gelid)
2 fans on one 4-fan powered PWM splitter (gelid)
The two splitters joined with one of the cheap EK pwm splitters to the Aquaero 6 channel
2 PWM D5 pumps (with Diva mod)
Pumps powered by their separate molex power adapters
PWM and RPM from/to the Aquaero via cheap EK pwm splitters to the Aquaero 6 channel with Diva mod on the aggregation connector
3 PWM case fans
3 fans on one 4-fan powered PWM splitter extended to the Aquaero 6 channel

Is this a compatible config as well, including with the PWM-splitter chaining?

Thanks!


----------



## bern43

Anyone have any recent experience ordering directly from Aquacomputer? I usually place my order with Aquatuning, but they seem to be out of stock at the moment on the 980 ti blocks I'm looking at.


----------



## InfoSeeker

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bern43*
> 
> Anyone have any recent experience ordering directly from Aquacomputer? I usually place my order with Aquatuning, but they seem to be out of stock at the moment on the 980 ti blocks I'm looking at.


Not sure where you are, but about 9 months ago I purchased a Gigant 1680 with aquaero & a dozen bits & pieces for a new build, and delivery to USA presented no problems. I don't remember the exact time span, but a week to 10 days from shipment seems about right. At the time, since many American banks are not set for direct deposit to foreign accounts, my only option for payment was PayPal, and aquacomputer charge the one, or so, percent back to your total.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Archea47*
> 
> I've done my reading on the Diva mod for my EK D5 PWM pumps. No questions there
> 
> Before I purchase a handful of PWM splitters, are there compatibility issues with certain models? These are the two I'm looking at:
> 
> 
> Switftech 8-way splitter-box:
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/swiftech-8-way-pwm-splitter-box-sata.html
> 
> Gelid 4-way splitter cable:
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/gelid-pwm-1-to-4-splitter.html#Customer-Reviews
> 
> Both have external power (these are for PWM fans) and only pull tach/rpm from one of the connected fans
> 
> These guys' listing doesn't look to mention if they only pull one tach signal but it looks nice:
> 
> ModMyToys splitter boxes?
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/modmytoys-4-pin-pwm-low-profile-power-distribution-pcb-8-way-block.html
> And then for my dual D5 pump PWM cable to put the Diva mod resistors&diode onto, simple PWM splitters with single tach:
> 
> EK 2 and 3 fan PWM splitters
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/ek-cable-y-splitter-2-fan-pwm-10cm.html
> The plan is, channel:
> 
> 9 PWM EK Vardar Furious (3K) RPM fans
> 6 fans on one 8-fan block (swiftech or modmytoys)
> 3 fans on one 4-fan powered PWM splitter (gelid)
> The two splitters joined with one of the cheap EK pwm splitters to the Aquaero 6 channel
> 6 PWM EK Vardar Furious (3K) RPM fans
> 4 fans on one 4-fan powered PWM splitter (gelid)
> 2 fans on one 4-fan powered PWM splitter (gelid)
> The two splitters joined with one of the cheap EK pwm splitters to the Aquaero 6 channel
> 2 PWM D5 pumps (with Diva mod)
> Pumps powered by their separate molex power adapters
> PWM and RPM from/to the Aquaero via cheap EK pwm splitters to the Aquaero 6 channel with Diva mod on the aggregation connector
> 3 PWM case fans
> 3 fans on one 4-fan powered PWM splitter extended to the Aquaero 6 channel
> 
> Is this a compatible config as well, including with the PWM-splitter chaining?
> 
> Thanks!


most of the mod my toys pcbs need a trace cut but it is extremely easy


----------



## dodgethis

Got the Aquaero up and running on the rig, with it controlling 4 EK Vardars, 8 Scythe Grand Flex PWMs and two Corsair AF120s LEDs. This is only temporary. I will be cutting the mounting brackets at a later time for the unit. I'm in love with how much the Aquaero and Aquasuite can monitor and control, all in one controller and software!


----------



## Mega Man

and another obsession has started !~


----------



## WHIMington

After a bit of search I finally came across a drill bit set that have metric 7mm drill in it(6.95 +/- 0.02 mm to be exact).

I've just re-bore my MPS 200 flow sensor using that drill, it was a tight hole and the drill still needed some force to pass through it after the drilling so the hole must be smaller then 7mm, I think it is safe to say that I now have MPS 400+ flow sensor.









Still have to clean out some debris and wait for a re-loop (soon™?) to test if the mod is sound, but I think it should work.


----------



## dodgethis

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> and another obsession has started !~


Indeed! The AQ5 LT is screaming out to me to be placed in even in simple builds!


----------



## bern43

Anyone move from an Aquaero 5 to a 6? About to order some blocks and the one time international shipping charge has me contemplating an upgrade. I'm using GT AP-15 fans and the lower heat when running lower rpms is appealing. Probably not worth it in the end. But still....

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Archea47

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> most of the mod my toys pcbs need a trace cut but it is extremely easy


Thanks Mega Man!

Other than RPM signals, it sounds like I don't have to worry about Aquaero 6 inter-op with PWM splitters. Good to hear









Here are the first of those 3K Vardar's I'll be controlling from the 6:


----------



## timepart

I have an aquaero 5 and using 3 modmytoys pcb boards modded to give one rpm signal to control my fans. I have 3 fans on each board. I have respective controllers and specs for the fan power modulation below. My problem is that only my bottom radiator has issues with the fans pulsing every now and then. It just keeps sending pusling speed to the fans and then it will stop after a minute or so. I have the same fans on my rig through with them being Corsair Sp120 Quiet Edition with no silencers attached. Is there some setting I am missing for this problem?



Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!









Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## Ironsmack

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *timepart*
> 
> I have an aquaero 5 and using 3 modmytoys pcb boards modded to give one rpm signal to control my fans. I have 3 fans on each board. I have respective controllers and specs for the fan power modulation below. My problem is that only my bottom radiator has issues with the fans pulsing every now and then. It just keeps sending pusling speed to the fans and then it will stop after a minute or so. I have the same fans on my rig through with them being Corsair Sp120 Quiet Edition with no silencers attached. Is there some setting I am missing for this problem?
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Have you tried the fan by themselves? And how about using a different extension?

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bern43*
> 
> Anyone move from an Aquaero 5 to a 6? About to order some blocks and the one time international shipping charge has me contemplating an upgrade. I'm using GT AP-15 fans and the lower heat when running lower rpms is appealing. Probably not worth it in the end. But still....
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Depends on how many fans/channel and how slow you running them. One channel on my LT is running (4) AP15's (at 400 RPM) and its around 39C. Of course this is with a WB. But im sure (4) AP15's shouldnt even faze the AQ6.

Edit: hate mobile edits


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *timepart*
> 
> I have an aquaero 5 and using 3 modmytoys pcb boards modded to give one rpm signal to control my fans. I have 3 fans on each board. I have respective controllers and specs for the fan power modulation below. My problem is that only my bottom radiator has issues with the fans pulsing every now and then. It just keeps sending pusling speed to the fans and then it will stop after a minute or so. I have the same fans on my rig through with them being Corsair Sp120 Quiet Edition with no silencers attached. Is there some setting I am missing for this problem?
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Have you cut the trace to the rpm signal to all but 1 fan? ...

The mod my toys splitter has all 3 wires hooked to all fans ( the splitters I have seen from them ) wick may be a positive or a negative depending on how you use it. It is a simple fix however you just cut the trace so that it only goes to one fan


----------



## aaroc

Can I cut in half (height) the USB connector of Aquaero6 that connects to the motherboard usb headers? I have a GPU just on top of all the USB headers and if I left the connector inserted it lift the GPU a few mm and the EK waterblock/terminal leaks







currently the AQ6 is with the fans at full speed all the time, i thought it will be more noisy.

Same problem with Aquacomputer usb flow meter, connected to the Aqua Bus but not USB. Does it need the power of the USB connector? I dont see RPM info on the auquaero.


----------



## seross69

Good Price on some Aquaero Accessory's here


----------



## Shoggy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *aaroc*
> 
> Same problem with Aquacomputer usb flow meter, connected to the Aqua Bus but not USB. Does it need the power of the USB connector? I dont see RPM info on the auquaero.


If you do not connect the USB cable, you have to use a 4-pin aquabus cable because otherwise the sensor will get no power.


----------



## Archea47

Just got word from PPCs:

They have 20 Aquaero 6s with the blue LEDs en-route, estimated to be in stock early next week!

I'm looking forward to having all my shopping done as soon as they come in. Then it's time for rad&fan painting (waiting on my Case Labs)


----------



## RoostrC0gburn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Archea47*
> 
> Just got word from PPCs:
> 
> They have 20 Aquaero 6s with the blue LEDs en-route, estimated to be in stock early next week!
> 
> I'm looking forward to having all my shopping done as soon as they come in. Then it's time for rad&fan painting (waiting on my Case Labs)


i assume this is the XT?


----------



## bkvamme

Just as a small heads up!
The Aquaero 5LT is able to deal with the 5V and 12V on the molex plug to be reversed. I followed a pinout picture that had the two reversed. Never trust the Internet! Just really happy that the controller is not fried, which concerned me for a moment when I discovered that the voltages were not correct.


----------



## InfoSeeker

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *aaroc*
> 
> Can I cut in half (height) the USB connector of Aquaero6 that connects to the motherboard usb headers? I have a GPU just on top of all the USB headers and if I left the connector inserted it lift the GPU a few mm and the EK waterblock/terminal leaks
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> currently the AQ6 is with the fans at full speed all the time, i thought it will be more noisy.


Something like this may work?


----------



## InfoSeeker

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RoostrC0gburn*
> 
> i assume this is the XT?


Must be, the PRO has mechanical switches.


----------



## aaroc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *InfoSeeker*
> 
> Something like this may work?


I already bought that adaptor, but is for USB 3.0. I couldnt find any equivalent adaptor for the USB 2.0 motherboard headers.


----------



## Ironsmack

Something like this would work:

http://www.canadacomputers.com/product_info.php?cPath=48_794_795&item_id=039880


----------



## seross69

I hope someone can help me with this!

Is it possible to jump from PA to PA with the aquabus since there is 2 connection on the PA for it or do I have to come off each PA and splice them all together??

@Shoggy


----------



## DewMan

Aquasuite frustration. If someone could point me in the right direction to resolving this issue it'd be greatly appreciated.

All fans and pumps are PWM controlled and the fan headers are set to PWM control. When I configure them with a preset value slider or set up a curve controller choosing an MPS-400 Temp sensor as data source they work as expected:



But if I set them up with curve controller, using the Phobya inline temp probe with 10kOhm resistance(Part# 71226) as data soure, the fans and pumps will only run @ 100%:



Am I missing something in configuring the Phobya probe? the 10kOhm resistance should be compatible with the 6 Pro. The probe's temp readings appear accurate at idle and under load.

Again, Any help would be appreciated.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DewMan*
> 
> Aquasuite frustration. If someone could point me in the right direction to resolving this issue it'd be greatly appreciated.
> 
> All fans and pumps are PWM controlled and the fan headers are set to PWM control. When I configure them with a preset value slider or set up a curve controller choosing an MPS-400 Temp sensor as data source they work as expected:
> 
> 
> 
> But if I set them up with curve controller, using the Phobya inline temp probe with 10kOhm resistance(Part# 71226) as data soure, the fans and pumps will only run @ 100%:
> 
> 
> 
> Am I missing something in configuring the Phobya probe? the 10kOhm resistance should be compatible with the 6 Pro. The probe's temp readings appear accurate at idle and under load.
> 
> Again, Any help would be appreciated.


start over again. Try to create a virtual temp sensor with ambient-water. Then create a new curve controller and use the automatic function see if goes as expected.


----------



## TheLawIX

Anyone interested in making me a PWM extension with the 10k pullup for a D5 on an aquaero 6? Will pay, PM me


----------



## Shoggy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> Is it possible to jump from PA to PA with the aquabus since there is 2 connection on the PA for it or do I have to come off each PA and splice them all together??


Yes, can be done. It is the main purpose for the second port.


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> Yes, can be done. It is the main purpose for the second port.


thanks shoggy that is what I thought


----------



## bern43

Is the Real Time Clock add on useful for the Aquearo 6? Seems like if you have the Aquearo connected via USB there's really not much of a need for it.

Also, can anyone confirm that the Titan X Backplates will work with the 980 ti? Same PCB, so I'm guessing it should.


----------



## EAnushan

Are aquabus cables just regular 4 pin female to female cables?


----------



## bkvamme

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EAnushan*
> 
> Are aquabus cables just regular 4 pin female to female cables?


Yes, normal female to female 4pin fan cables.


----------



## InfoSeeker

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bern43*
> 
> Is the Real Time Clock add on useful for the Aquearo 6? Seems like if you have the Aquearo connected via USB there's really not much of a need for it.


Correct,the clock module is not needed if you maintain a USB connection to the MoBo.

Per product description:
Quote:


> The Real Time Clock expansion module supplements your existing aquaero with a battery buffered real time clock, especially interesting for aquaero controllers that do not have a permanent USB connection to a PC.


----------



## kitg90

Waiting game Aquaero 6 XT still in production







been 2-3 weeks waiting. Asked customer service probably need to wait another 2 weeks but I'm sure it's worth it!

Excited!


----------



## leakydog

Hi guys, I don't want to buy Aquaero 6, because its display so I would like to get Aquaero 5 LT. Only thing I have to know is if it can handle at least three PWM fans. I know there is only one PWM connector, so if I use some splitters, will it works? Thanks.


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *leakydog*
> 
> Hi guys, I don't want to buy Aquaero 6, because its display so I would like to get Aquaero 5 LT. Only thing I have to know is if it can handle at least three PWM fans. I know there is only one PWM connector, so if I use some splitters, will it works? Thanks.


Yes it will work


----------



## gamerking

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *leakydog*
> 
> Hi guys, I don't want to buy Aquaero 6, because its display so I would like to get Aquaero 5 LT. Only thing I have to know is if it can handle at least three PWM fans. I know there is only one PWM connector, so if I use some splitters, will it works? Thanks.


it will no problem i have 5 currently on mine soon going to 9 total on one pwm connector


----------



## leakydog

ok, could I use this one? http://www.arctic.ac/eu_en/pst-cable.html They wrote here that you can't monitor RPM on 3 of 4 PWM fans, but you can still control them all, right?


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *leakydog*
> 
> ok, could I use this one? http://www.arctic.ac/eu_en/pst-cable.html They wrote here that you can't monitor RPM on 3 of 4 PWM fans, but you can still control them all, right?


you can only have 1 fan sending RPM signal or it will not report the correct rpm and will cause controller to be erratic. So you need to cut the RPM signal from all the fans but 1


----------



## tdhall81

im running an Aquaero 5 XT with 3 PA2s. i recently updated the firmware and updated to aquasuite 2015.. after doing all that the fan banks that run on my PA2s channel 5, 6, and 7 on the controller no longer respond to commands from the Aquaero. i can set the power but they stay running at 100% any thoughts as to what might be causing this?

each fan bank only has 1 rpm signal and has worked fine for 3 years i believe before updating

cheers


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tdhall81*
> 
> im running an Aquaero 5 XT with 3 PA2s. i recently updated the firmware and updated to aquasuite 2015.. after doing all that the fan banks that run on my PA2s channel 5, 6, and 7 on the controller no longer respond to commands from the Aquaero. i can set the power but they stay running at 100% any thoughts as to what might be causing this?
> 
> each fan bank only has 1 rpm signal and has worked fine for 3 years i believe before updating
> 
> cheers


Did you update the firmware of the PA's? they might need it too.
Do the PA's show up under currenty connected aquabus devices?


----------



## ratzofftoya

OK, this is I suppose an incredibly embarrassing question to ask, but I can't make heads nor tails of this whole Aquaero thing. All I know is that it looks sweet and I want one. Would really appreciate some help with basic noob questions:

What kind of stuff do I need to pick up in order to be able to control two watercooling loops with a couple rad-fulls of fans each? I'd like to use D5 pumps; does that mean I need to get the Aquaero branded D5s?

What's a poweradjust?

What's the difference between one of the ones with the LCD display and one of the ones that just has a plain black front? Is the latter just controlled through the software?

What's a farbwerk?

Sorry--I promise I'll be a helpful contributor as soon as I get my foot in the door.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ratzofftoya*
> 
> OK, this is I suppose an incredibly embarrassing question to ask, but I can't make heads nor tails of this whole Aquaero thing. All I know is that it looks sweet and I want one. Would really appreciate some help with basic noob questions:
> 
> What kind of stuff do I need to pick up in order to be able to control two watercooling loops with a couple rad-fulls of fans each? I'd like to use D5 pumps; does that mean I need to get the Aquaero branded D5s?
> 
> What's a poweradjust?
> 
> What's the difference between one of the ones with the LCD display and one of the ones that just has a plain black front? Is the latter just controlled through the software?
> 
> What's a farbwerk?
> 
> Sorry--I promise I'll be a helpful contributor as soon as I get my foot in the door.


1) d5 pwm compatible with aquaero from factory only the Aquacomputer one. Good deal actually if you don't have a d5 already because is one of the cheapest available.But if you already have a D5 pwm and want to control it via aquaero you will need a Diva mod (search the thread for this). You will need water temp sensors and ideally a water flow sensor too.

2) poweradjust is a small unit that can help you get more fans controlled via Aquasuite. Not sure what you meant about lcd, post the especific models you are talking about.

3) farbwerk is a unit designed to control leds.


----------



## NE0XY

Uhm so this is embarassing, but I can't figure out what I'm doing wrong.
I've plugged a fan in the Aquaero 6 XT, it has power connected, and also USB. So why doesn't the fan spin? =/
There is a red led blinking what does this mean?

I don't get it =/

Edit: plugged in the second set of fans and those work perfectly =/ And by that I mean they are spinning^^


----------



## ratzofftoya

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> 1) d5 pwm compatible with aquaero from factory only the Aquacomputer one. Good deal actually if you don't have a d5 already because is one of the cheapest available.But if you already have a D5 pwm and want to control it via aquaero you will need a Diva mod (search the thread for this). You will need water temp sensors and ideally a water flow sensor too.
> 
> 2) poweradjust is a small unit that can help you get more fans controlled via Aquasuite. Not sure what you meant about lcd, post the especific models you are talking about.
> 
> 3) farbwerk is a unit designed to control leds.


Cool, thanks! If I have, say 16 fans split among 4 rads, do I need any poweradjusts? Also, can both of my D5 Aquacomputer pumps go on one Aquaero unit?, along with those 16 fans?

Finally, do you recommend using the farbwerk for LEDs, or can I plug them directly into the Aquaero?


----------



## electro2u

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ratzofftoya*
> 
> Cool, thanks! If I have, say 16 fans split among 4 rads, do I need any poweradjusts? Also, can both of my D5 Aquacomputer pumps go on one Aquaero unit?, along with those 16 fans?
> 
> Finally, do you recommend using the farbwerk for LEDs, or can I plug them directly into the Aquaero?


If those AC pumps are the newer pwm versions, you can certainly run one each to a fan channel. If the pumps are aquabus, you can control them both without having to use any fan channels. It's also totally possible to run the 16 fans off the remaining 2 channels and don't need power adjusts at all. The PAs are not pwm capable, either. The Aquaero 6 can do pwm on all 4 channels, but the Aq 5 has only 1 pwm channel.

I don't have farbwerk experience and my feeling is that it's somewhat unnecessary unless you are specifically using RGB lights. If your lights are single color, then you can use the pwm output of the Aquaero to control intensity... but MegaMan or Gabe would have to advise further because I don't understand that capability at all. I don't have as much hardware so I run my lights off a fan channel, which is slightly silly.


----------



## ratzofftoya

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> If those AC pumps are the newer pwm versions, you can certainly run one each to a fan channel. If the pumps are aquabus, you can control them both without having to use any fan channels. It's also totally possible to run the 16 fans off the remaining 2 channels and don't need power adjusts at all. The PAs are not pwm capable, either. The Aquaero 6 can do pwm on all 4 channels, but the Aq 5 has only 1 pwm channel.
> 
> I don't have farbwerk experience and my feeling is that it's somewhat unnecessary unless you are specifically using RGB lights. If your lights are single color, then you can use the pwm output of the Aquaero to control intensity... but MegaMan or Gabe would have to advise further because I don't understand that capability at all. I don't have as much hardware so I run my lights off a fan channel, which is slightly silly.


Would you mind terribly linking me to the versions I should pick up?

Also, if I understand you correctly, there are only four PWM channels on the Aquaero, so that means 2 pumps and 2 fan groupings or something, right? Why does the poster above have 3 poweradjusts? Surely he can't have 60 fans or whatever...

What's an Aquabus?


----------



## electro2u

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ratzofftoya*
> 
> Would you mind terribly linking me to the versions I should pick up?
> 
> Also, if I understand you correctly, there are only four PWM channels on the Aquaero, so that means 2 pumps and 2 fan groupings or something, right? Why does the poster above have 3 poweradjusts? Surely he can't have 60 fans or whatever...
> 
> What's an Aquabus?


This is the PWM D5 that is compatible with the Aquaero:
http://www.performance-pcs.com/aquacomputer-d5-pump-motor-with-pwm-input-and-speed-signal.html

This is the *only* pwm d5 pump that will work natively with the Aquaero. Something about the implementation of pwm in the standard d5 being "irregular". As above is stated you can modify other pwm d5s to work using ITDiva's mod but this one is set up out of the box. This is the pump I would use personally. They werent available when I was in the market and I didnt know what I was doing anyway.

The "Aquabus" d5 pump is this one:
http://www.performance-pcs.com/aquacomputer-d5-pump-mechanics-with-usb-and-aquabus-interface.html

This one has more connections on the back, and can be difficult to fit into pump housings, but is otherwise highly recommended. It will allow you to control the pump speed from the Aquaero's own proprietary "aquabus" connection, thus saving you a fan channel as compared to using the AC pwm d5.

As for people with Power Adjusts, there can be different reasons. Possibly they *do* have 60 fans. Possibly they are controlling multiple pumps from the aquaero unit and needed or wanted more channels for other fans and components (like lights). Some people do it for aesthetics, as 1 to 3 poweradjusts look great and fit wonderfully into the optional PA bezel:

Up to three of the PA units fit perfectly into it, they are very small:


----------



## ratzofftoya

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> The "Aquabus" d5 pump is this one:
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/aquacomputer-d5-pump-mechanics-with-usb-and-aquabus-interface.html
> 
> This one has more connections on the back, and can be difficult to fit into pump housings, but is otherwise highly recommended. It will allow you to control the pump speed from the Aquaero's own proprietary "aquabus" connection, thus saving you a fan channel as compared to using the AC pwm d5.


Thanks, this is super helpful! Any tips on which pumptops work well with that Aquabus D5?


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ratzofftoya*
> 
> Thanks, this is super helpful! Any tips on which pumptops work well with that Aquabus D5?


Just go by what you think looks better!!!


----------



## electro2u

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ratzofftoya*
> 
> Thanks, this is super helpful! Any tips on which pumptops work well with that Aquabus D5?


The tops are all technically compatible, the issue is if you get a housing for the pump (or the top design is integrated with a housing) you may have trouble getting the back pump cover in place because of the extra connections on the aquabus pump:




Edit: I should point out that a pwm splitter cable would allow 2 pumps to be controlled with one fan channel. I just wouldn't want both my pumps ramping up at the same time.


----------



## ratzofftoya

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> The tops are all technically compatible, the issue is if you get a housing for the pump (or the top design is integrated with a housing) you may have trouble getting the back pump cover in place because of the extra connections on the aquabus pump:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Edit: I should point out that a pwm splitter cable would allow 2 pumps to be controlled with one fan channel. I just wouldn't want both my pumps ramping up at the same time.


Got it, thanks! Hopefully I'll pick out something compatible. Frankly the Aqualis ones are nice.

On the topic of flow sensors, it seems that Aquacomptuer makes a few. Are any particularly recommended?


----------



## electro2u

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ratzofftoya*
> 
> Got it, thanks! Hopefully I'll pick out something compatible. Frankly the Aqualis ones are nice.
> 
> On the topic of flow sensors, it seems that Aquacomptuer makes a few. Are any particularly recommended?


For a system with 2 d5s and presumably not a lot of restriction, kinda can't imagine not going for the AC MPS 400
Assuming you will be running at least 80liters per hour (pretty slow) that is the best sensor.

All of the aquabus components can be daisy chained together, too, so you can get as many of these as you want and run them all off the Aquaero and they will still perform independently.

I hate to bring this up but I've had two of the slightly cheaper Aquacomputer "high flow" sensors and they both made rapid clicking noises. Sometimes it would go away, sometimes if you took it apart you could fix it.


----------



## 47 Knucklehead

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> I hate to bring this up but I've had two of the slightly cheaper Aquacomputer "high flow" sensors and they both made rapid clicking noises. Sometimes it would go away, sometimes if you took it apart you could fix it.


Same.


----------



## electro2u

The MPS sensors don't do that. Also... it appears AC has developed a USB/AB "high flow sensor". I wonder if it's the same mechanism as the clicky units.


----------



## ratzofftoya

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> For a system with 2 d5s and presumably not a lot of restriction, kinda can't imagine not going for the AC MPS 400
> Assuming you will be running at least 80liters per hour (pretty slow) that is the best sensor.
> 
> All of the aquabus components can be daisy chained together, too, so you can get as many of these as you want and run them all off the Aquaero and they will still perform independently.
> 
> I hate to bring this up but I've had two of the slightly cheaper Aquacomputer "high flow" sensors and they both made rapid clicking noises. Sometimes it would go away, sometimes if you took it apart you could fix it.


Wow, can't imagine having to take apart a hardline system every once in a while to fix a clicking component. I'll stick with the MPS 400, I reckon.

Is there any reason I would want more than one of these guys?

Also, rather than having to keep exploiting your generosity, is there a good video guide or something available about Aquaero loop setup and best practices?


----------



## electro2u

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ratzofftoya*
> 
> Is there any reason I would want more than one of these guys?


I asked that exact question like a year ago. If you had multiple loops is the only reason.









I haven't had a lot of time to post for a while so I'm enjoying myself and re-familiarizing with the AC product line.

I doubt there is a Aquaero tutorial video. It's such a stout piece of equipment it's kinda hard to fry them. People mostly have to research and ask questions and do some tinkering. To my knowledge, this thread is the best English source for setup advice. The Aquaero manual is very sparse







Aquacomputer has an English forum as well, but it's not nearly as populated. I think if you run the OCN search engine through this thread you can find answers to some specific questions but it's not a very intuitive search function... it's a forum--I tend to just ask if I don't find something pretty quickly on google.

Sven "Shoggy" from Aquacomputer sometimes comes by to answer complex questions and responds to PMs.


----------



## ratzofftoya

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> It's such a stout piece of equipment it's kinda hard to fry them. People mostly have to research and ask questions and do some tinkering. To my knowledge, this thread is the best English source for setup advice.
> 
> Sven "Shoggy" from Aquacomputer sometimes comes by to answer complex questions and responds to PMs.


Yikes. Only thing that gives me pause is reading about having to first plug things into the mobo USB, then unplug them before plugging into the Aquaero to avoid frying, etc.


----------



## Wolfsbora

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The MPS sensors don't do that. Also... it appears AC has developed a USB/AB "high flow sensor". I wonder if it's the same mechanism as the clicky units.


Same here, my MPS is silent. I'll be using the high flow sensor in Sweet Leilani. I'm curious as to whether I'll have this issue or not.


----------



## electro2u

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ratzofftoya*
> 
> Yikes. Only thing that gives me pause is reading about having to first plug things into the mobo USB, then unplug them before plugging into the Aquaero to avoid frying, etc.


That's exactly what I mean, though, the thing is robust. =P

USB and aquabus *can* be connected at the same time. It's just not necessary. The permanent usb connection is between the motherboard and the Aquaero.
You are required to configure each *aquabus* device with the software at initial installation. Aquasuite is the user interface software and it needs to record the USB information of each device. Once that has been accomplished each device that has been configured can then be controlled with only the aquabus connection. This is why people get mad when a firmware update erases all that information.

I'm not aware of any hardware vulnerability from basic miswiring of the Aq. If there was I would have found it with my luck. I dripped coolant on mine once while it was on. I couldn't figure out why two of the fan channels were reporting overvoltage and shutting themselves off and on. I kept rebooting the thing and then realized it was wet. Yah.


----------



## Shoggy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> Up to three of the PA units fit perfectly into it, they are very small:


This photo shows a farbwerk controller, not a poweradjust









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> it appears AC has developed a USB/AB "high flow sensor". I wonder if it's the same mechanism as the clicky units.


It is exactly the same sensor but with a mps controller board in addition.

By the way the clicking noise is no general issue. This sensor variant sells much more than all other variants and the RMA rate is negligible.


----------



## Costas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> I hate to bring this up but I've had two of the slightly cheaper Aquacomputer "high flow" sensors and they both made rapid clicking noises. Sometimes it would go away, sometimes if you took it apart you could fix it.


Reason they click is due to the play that is present between the impeller and the shaft it runs on. If you shake the unit when its not connected to your loop you can hear the same clicking/rattle sound as the impeller moves around on its shaft.

The noise is highly dependent on the flow rate....the faster the flow the louder and faster the clicking becomes. The noise subsides at low flow rates (typ <1.2 GPM) so in many loops people will not notice any clicking. I suspect that it would also be sensitive to how turbulent the flow becomes within the sensor, so tubing routing/fittings before and after the sensor will have an effect as well.

I also noted that it is easy to get an air bubble trapped in the impeller cavity which ends up causing more noise as it allows the impeller to rattle even more.

If you run a higher viscocity coolant (eg coolant with glycol etc) the noise is not as bad due to the fact that the impeller is damped more so in this fluid Vs straight distilled.

There is no fix for this design... It is what it is however it is very accurate when its calibration/pulse value is set correctly with no need to zero the sensor. So it is extremely simple for people to use.

BTW mounting it vertically is the worst option for noise. Best orientation is with the faceplate facing straight up.


----------



## ratzofftoya

Does the poweradjust 3 have an aquabus interface for connecting an Aquacomputer D5 pump? In other words, will I be able to get two poweradjusts, one for each of my loops, such that each loop's pump, flow meter, temp sensors (x2), and fans (x6-x12) are plugged into a poweradjust, and the two poweradjusts are connected to the Aquaero?


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ratzofftoya*
> 
> Does the poweradjust 3 have an aquabus interface for connecting an Aquacomputer D5 pump? In other words, will I be able to get two poweradjusts, one for each of my loops, such that each loop's pump, flow meter, temp sensors (x2), and fans (x6-x12) are plugged into a poweradjust, and the two poweradjusts are connected to the Aquaero?


Aquabus is a bus system with device addresses so as long as each device is connected somehow then it will work. Multi Fan splitters will work if all wires are connected.
The power adjust has twin aquabus ports so an MPS pump could be connected to it's spare port.


----------



## NE0XY

Why can't I see the RPMs of my PWM fans?
I have 8 parvum fans going to a "mod my toys" fan splitter then into the aquaero? =/


----------



## Kimir

Because the Tach signal might be wired on all fan to the source, so it can't read because all the fan signal is send on a single wire.
Cut the trace will do the trick.


----------



## 47 Knucklehead

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kimir*
> 
> Because the Tach signal might be wired on all fan to the source, so it can't read because all the fan signal is send on a single wire.
> Cut the trace will do the trick.


Yup.

You have to do the same with non-PWM fans too.

I'm building up a 240 and a 480 system right now and each radiator and their fans (4 and 8 respectively) have only ONE RPM line running to the splitter. Since I was cutting the fans wires to length, I decided not to cut the trace on the splitter board. Then each radiator goes to a seperate channel on the AC 6XT. So 3 or 7 fans have the yellow RPM wire not connected. The RPM signal on the AC 6XT is smooth as silk. If you connect multiple fans with the RPM line still there, the AC 6XT will be jittery as heck.

http://www.overclock.net/t/1556921/build-log-muzzle-flash-iii-white-death/0_50#post_24009015


----------



## NE0XY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kimir*
> 
> Because the Tach signal might be wired on all fan to the source, so it can't read because all the fan signal is send on a single wire.
> Cut the trace will do the trick.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *47 Knucklehead*
> 
> Yup.
> 
> You have to do the same with non-PWM fans too.
> 
> I'm building up a 240 and a 480 system right now and each radiator and their fans (4 and 8 respectively) have only ONE RPM line running to the splitter. Since I was cutting the fans wires to length, I decided not to cut the trace on the splitter board. Then each radiator goes to a seperate channel on the AC 6XT. So 3 or 7 fans have the yellow RPM wire not connected. The RPM signal on the AC 6XT is smooth as silk. If you connect multiple fans with the RPM line still there, the AC 6XT will be jittery as heck.
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1556921/build-log-muzzle-flash-iii-white-death/0_50#post_24009015
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


What? I don't get it, I have to start cutting in the wires? That seems weird


----------



## bern43

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NE0XY*
> 
> What? I don't get it, I have to start cutting in the wires? That seems weird


Yes, you only want one RPM signal going to the unit. If it has a bunch of RPM signals it doesn't work properly. You can cut the trace. What I did, for my non PWM fans was just cut the RPM wire on each of the cable extensions I had, except for one. Do this for each group of fans going to a fan-header and you should get everything working properly.


----------



## 47 Knucklehead

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NE0XY*
> 
> What? I don't get it, I have to start cutting in the wires? That seems weird


You can either cut the wire -OR- just push the tach/RPM wire back out of the connector (and put some tape or heat shrink on it) -OR- cut a trace on the ModDIY splitter.

What ever is easier for you and gives you the look you want.


----------



## NE0XY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bern43*
> 
> Yes, you only want one RPM signal going to the unit. If it has a bunch of RPM signals it doesn't work properly. You can cut the trace. What I did, for my non PWM fans was just cut the RPM wire on each of the cable extensions I had, except for one. Do this for each group of fans going to a fan-header and you should get everything working properly.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *47 Knucklehead*
> 
> You can either cut the wire -OR- just push the tach/RPM wire back out of the connector (and put some tape or heat shrink on it) -OR- cut a trace on the ModDIY splitter.
> 
> What ever is easier for you and gives you the look you want.


I can see the RPMs of my non pvm fans, is that coz they're only 3-pin?

That's so stupid... Why should I have to bother with this =P The splitter is between two rads so it's really hard to reach...


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NE0XY*
> 
> I can see the RPMs of my non pvm fans, is that coz they're only 3-pin?
> 
> That's so stupid... Why should I have to bother with this =P The splitter is between two rads so it's really hard to reach...


I would bet that the rpm you can see is not accurate if you are feeding in 3 rpm signals!!! It is very simple why you do not want to send more than one rom signal, if 3 people are telling you something at the same time would you understand???


----------



## NE0XY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> I would bet that the rpm you can see is not accurate if you are feeding in 3 rpm signals!!! It is very simple why you do not want to send more than one rom signal, if 3 people are telling you something at the same time would you understand???


On one of the channels there's 8 fans, and I can see the RPM,

I still think it's weird that you have to do it. When you say it like that I understand what you mean, but still. Tbh it should just be plug and spinn. and I should be able to properly controll it. But maybe it's me that haven't figured out the software yet.


----------



## Archea47

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NE0XY*
> 
> I can see the RPMs of my non pvm fans, is that coz they're only 3-pin?
> 
> That's so stupid... Why should I have to bother with this =P The splitter is between two rads so it's really hard to reach...


It's a modmytoys issue more than Aquaero. The swiftech pwm splitters only send RPM up the line from one of the 8 fan channels


----------



## NE0XY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Archea47*
> 
> It's a modmytoys issue more than Aquaero. The swiftech pwm splitters only send RPM up the line from one of the 8 fan channels


So if I had bought one of these instead: http://www.performance-pcs.com/pwm-cables/swiftech-8-way-pwm-splitter-box.html
I wouldn't have had any problems?


----------



## 47 Knucklehead

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NE0XY*
> 
> So if I had bought one of these instead: http://www.performance-pcs.com/pwm-cables/swiftech-8-way-pwm-splitter-box.html
> I wouldn't have had any problems?


Correct.

If you look under the "features" tab, you will see where it talks about how it only sends one RPM signal.
Quote:


> Since only one RPM signal can be read by one motherboard connector, only channel 1 of the PWM splitter carries an RPM signal; thus the motherboard will only read the RPM signal of the PWM device that is connected to channel 1 of the splitter.
> 
> The PWM signal cable has 2 wires: 1 for the PWM signal, and 1 for the RPM signal.
> Power to the PWM splitter is supplied by a separate power cabe that must be connected to the Power supply.


The ModDIY thing just copies all the pins (as does my NZXT Grid), hence why we are saying you will either have to push back the RPM wire on all EXCEPT one fan -OR- cut the RPM wire -OR- cut the track on the ModDIY block.


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NE0XY*
> 
> On one of the channels there's 8 fans, and I can see the RPM,
> 
> I still think it's weird that you have to do it. When you say it like that I understand what you mean, but still. Tbh it should just be plug and spinn. and I should be able to properly controll it. But maybe it's me that haven't figured out the software yet.


There is a lot of variation as to how many RPM signals from fans a controller can cope with. It depends on the fans and the controller. More will of course always be worse in general though.
The modmytoys boards are cheap DIY boards and need to be set up or used correctly by either modding them permanantly before use or other methods the guys have mentioned. They have other applications besides use with fans that require all pins to be fully connected so it is useful that they do come that way. I use them as Aquabus and RGB LED splitters for example as well as PWM fan splitters.


----------



## InfoSeeker

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> All of the aquabus components can be daisy chained together, too, so you can get as many of these as you want and run them all off the Aquaero and they will still perform independently.


There are limitations as to the number of aquabus devices that can be 'daisy chained'... i.e. only 4 MPS devices can be added to the aquabus at one time (addresses 12, 13, 14, 15).

You can see a table in section 25.1. "Compatible aquabus devices" in the aquaero manual. I believe the farbwerk came out after the manual and is not included. Perhaps someone with knowledge/experience can share here.


----------



## ratzofftoya

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *InfoSeeker*
> 
> There are limitations as to the number of aquabus devices that can be 'daisy chained'... i.e. only 4 MPS devices can be added to the aquabus at one time (addresses 12, 13, 14, 15).
> 
> You can see a table in section 25.1. "Compatible aquabus devices" in the aquaero manual. I believe the farbwerk came out after the manual and is not included. Perhaps someone with knowledge/experience can share here.


Oh, nuts. I would want 2 pumps, 2 flow meters, and 1 farbwerk. Might have to ditch the farbwerk. Unless the fact that the pumps are connected to a poweradjust and THEN to the Aquaero matters...


----------



## ratzofftoya

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> There is a lot of variation as to how many RPM signals from fans a controller can cope with. It depends on the fans and the controller. More will of course always be worse in general though.
> The modmytoys boards are cheap DIY boards and need to be set up or used correctly by either modding them permanantly before use or other methods the guys have mentioned. They have other applications besides use with fans that require all pins to be fully connected so it is useful that they do come that way. I use them as Aquabus and RGB LED splitters for example as well as PWM fan splitters.


Would one of these obviate the issue, or is this in fact the actual offending distribution block? It says "pwm," so you'd assume they would have figured this issue out...

http://www.performance-pcs.com/modmytoys-4-pin-pwm-power-distribution-pcb-8-way-block.html#Details


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ratzofftoya*
> 
> Would one of these obviate the issue, or is this in fact the actual offending distribution block? It says "pwm," so you'd assume they would have figured this issue out...
> 
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/modmytoys-4-pin-pwm-power-distribution-pcb-8-way-block.html#Details


They are the ones we are talking about.


----------



## InfoSeeker

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ratzofftoya*
> 
> Oh, nuts. I would want 2 pumps, 2 flow meters, and 1 farbwerk. Might have to ditch the farbwerk. Unless the fact that the pumps are connected to a poweradjust and THEN to the Aquaero matters...


No, the farbwerk is not an MPS device, so you could use it in addition to 4 MPS devices. According to section 11.3. "aquabus configuration (aquabus version only)" of the farbwerk manual, farbwerk uses addresses 20 and 21.

So you are good to go, Just be sure to order the USB version of the farbwerk, not the bluetooth... they are mutually exclusive.

EDIT: whether the pumps go through a PA2 does not matter, they each need their own address.
pump 1 - 12
pump 2 - 13
flow sensor 1 - 14
flow sensor 2 - 15
farbwerk - 20

EDIT: both farbwerk types have USB... the distinction is aquabus/bluetooth. It has either aquabus OR bluetooth, never both.


----------



## electro2u

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *InfoSeeker*
> 
> There are limitations as to the number of aquabus devices that can be 'daisy chained'... i.e. only 4 MPS devices can be added to the aquabus at one time (addresses 12, 13, 14, 15).
> 
> You can see a table in section 25.1. "Compatible aquabus devices" in the aquaero manual. I believe the farbwerk came out after the manual and is not included. Perhaps someone with knowledge/experience can share here.


I don't think I've ever seen that manual before 
[goes and looks]
OK mine isn't as small as I remembered. It's more than a folded sheet of paper and it's a Quick Start Guide copyright 2013 and that manual from 2014 on the website is way better.


----------



## Archea47

Just got word from PPCs - Aquaero 6 models (including new blue-LED XT) expected to be in-stock on Friday


----------



## RoostrC0gburn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Archea47*
> 
> Just got word from PPCs - Aquaero 6 models (including new blue-LED XT) expected to be in-stock on Friday


do you know if that will include any 6 Pros? I'm still pricing them out..


----------



## Archea47

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RoostrC0gburn*
> 
> do you know if that will include any 6 Pros? I'm still pricing them out..


Yep

Still haven't decided myself between the Pro and XT


----------



## RoostrC0gburn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Archea47*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *RoostrC0gburn*
> 
> do you know if that will include any 6 Pros? I'm still pricing them out..
> 
> 
> 
> Yep
> 
> Still haven't decided myself between the Pro and XT
Click to expand...

well, the Pro won't have the fancy blue LEDs


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Archea47*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *NE0XY*
> 
> I can see the RPMs of my non pvm fans, is that coz they're only 3-pin?
> 
> That's so stupid... Why should I have to bother with this =P The splitter is between two rads so it's really hard to reach...
> 
> 
> 
> It's a modmytoys issue more than Aquaero. The swiftech pwm splitters only send RPM up the line from one of the 8 fan channels
Click to expand...

it isnt an issue, imo it is a usage.
mod my toys leaves 4 traces for a reason, IE aquabus splitter, RGB splitter or fan splitter.

you can cut a trace if you need to or keep it if you are not
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *NE0XY*
> 
> On one of the channels there's 8 fans, and I can see the RPM,
> 
> I still think it's weird that you have to do it. When you say it like that I understand what you mean, but still. Tbh it should just be plug and spinn. and I should be able to properly controll it. But maybe it's me that haven't figured out the software yet.
> 
> 
> 
> There is a lot of variation as to how many RPM signals from fans a controller can cope with. It depends on the fans and the controller. More will of course always be worse in general though.
> The modmytoys boards are cheap DIY boards and need to be set up or used correctly by either modding them permanantly before use or other methods the guys have mentioned. They have other applications besides use with fans that require all pins to be fully connected so it is useful that they do come that way. I use them as Aquabus and RGB LED splitters for example as well as PWM fan splitters.
Click to expand...

no there isnt, your fan controler can not understand any more then 1 due to the way it receives the signal

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ratzofftoya*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *InfoSeeker*
> 
> There are limitations as to the number of aquabus devices that can be 'daisy chained'... i.e. only 4 MPS devices can be added to the aquabus at one time (addresses 12, 13, 14, 15).
> 
> You can see a table in section 25.1. "Compatible aquabus devices" in the aquaero manual. I believe the farbwerk came out after the manual and is not included. Perhaps someone with knowledge/experience can share here.
> 
> 
> 
> Oh, nuts. I would want 2 pumps, 2 flow meters, and 1 farbwerk. Might have to ditch the farbwerk. Unless the fact that the pumps are connected to a poweradjust and THEN to the Aquaero matters...
Click to expand...

to add to this discussion also you said you would run your pumps hooked to the pwoer adj not the aquabus right?

you will be fine [email protected]~!

that chart only shows avail aquabus positions / addresses


----------



## InfoSeeker

Quote:


> to add to this discussion also you said you would run your pumps hooked to the pwoer adj not the aquabus right?
> 
> you will be fine [email protected]~!
> 
> that chart only shows avail aquabus positions / addresses


Correct, if the plan is to control/monitor the pumps only via USB, then the aquabus addresses do not come into play.

But if the plan is to control/monitor the pumps with the aquaero, even linked through a poweradjust, I believe aquabus address restrictions remain regarding the number of MPS devices allowed... 4.


----------



## Archea47

Quick PWM question:

Can I have fans of different models and max RPM on the same channel? They don't need to spin at the same RPM, looking for them to run at the same % load

The channel won't be providing power, just a PWM signal to splitters


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Archea47*
> 
> Quick PWM question:
> 
> Can I have fans of different models and max RPM on the same channel? They don't need to spin at the same RPM, looking for them to run at the same % load
> 
> The channel won't be providing power, just a PWM signal to splitters


you can.


----------



## ozzy1925

my 3pin aquabus cables are too short to my aquaero can i add regular 3pin fan extension ?


----------



## 47 Knucklehead

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ozzy1925*
> 
> my 3pin aquabus cables are too short to my aquaero can i add regular 3pin fan extension ?


Yes.


----------



## Archea47

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> you can.


Thanks Gabrielzm







+rep

I ordered my Aquaero 6 Pro today


----------



## DNMock

Will the Aquaero 6 work ok using the Asus Fan hub as a hub?


----------



## electro2u

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DNMock*
> 
> Will the Aquaero 6 work ok using the Asus Fan hub as a hub?


Yup!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pcdiy.asus.com*
> For water cooling enthusiasts and multi fan intakes you can also have it serve a PWM fan splitter interface allowing you to have 1, 2 or 3 fans mirroring the PWM control signal of an internal header.


https://pcdiy.asus.com/2015/05/poll-do-you-want-to-buy-the-asus-fan-extension-hub-module/


----------



## DanBr

edit


----------



## DanBr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *47 Knucklehead*
> 
> Correct.
> 
> If you look under the "features" tab, you will see where it talks about how it only sends one RPM signal.
> The ModDIY thing just copies all the pins (as does my NZXT Grid), hence why we are saying you will either have to push back the RPM wire on all EXCEPT one fan -OR- cut the RPM wire -OR- cut the track on the ModDIY block.


http://www.performance-pcs.com/pwm-cables/swiftech-8-way-pwm-splitter-box.html#Specifications

Why does this need power from the power supply, doesn't the Aquaero give power to the fans?


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DanBr*
> 
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/pwm-cables/swiftech-8-way-pwm-splitter-box.html#Specifications
> 
> Why does this need power from the power supply, doesn't the Aquaero give power to the fans?


Because this is a splitter made by Swiftech and designed that way. Allows you to put 8 fans and control all 8 together. It was a good design choice too. If you daisy chain 8 fans on a simple cpu_fan header capable of only 1 A it is wise to have a molex or sata power coming from the PSU directly.


----------



## TheTou

Hi, I have a problem with controlling the relay via AquaComputerCmd.exe. When I execute the following:

Code:



Code:


AquaComputerCmd.exe -sn:04921-39263 -relay:100

the value for LED blue get's set to 100 instead of the relay. Is this a bug or a feature?

I tried different options, they all seem to be messed up:

-relay controlls blue LED
-ledr controlls relay
-ledg controlls power output 1
-ledb controll power output 2
-pwm1 controlls red LED
-pwm2 controlls green LED

I haven't checked the -fan options though.

I have Aquaero 6 Pro with firmware 2003 and aquasuite 2015-6 on Windows 8.1 x64


----------



## DanBr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Because this is a splitter made by Swiftech and designed that way. Allows you to put 8 fans and control all 8 together. It was a good design choice too. If you daisy chain 8 fans on a simple cpu_fan header capable of only 1 A it is wise to have a molex or sata power coming from the PSU directly.


Ok, good to know, but does the Aquaero 6 need the additional power, It I believe can handle 3 amps per channel (36 watts at 12 votls)
Would it help to use the additional power if I used that splitter with the Aquaero.
Thanks
Dan

you have led me to another question...Do motherboard specs list what each fan header is rated for?


----------



## 47 Knucklehead

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DanBr*
> 
> Ok, good to know, but does the Aquaero 6 need the additional power, It I believe can handle 3 amps per channel (36 watts at 12 votls)
> Would it help to use the additional power if I used that splitter with the Aquaero.
> Thanks
> Dan
> 
> you have led me to another question...Do motherboard specs list what each fan header is rated for?


It doesn't need it. The 36 watts per channel is a TON of power. The Gentle Typhoon AP-15's for example have a start up current of about 0.36A and a nominal current of 0.083A. Depending on what fan you want to run, you can just use a splitter.

You'd have to check the motherboard maker. Most are about 1A per header.


----------



## DanBr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *47 Knucklehead*
> 
> It doesn't need it. The 36 watts per channel is a TON of power. The Gentle Typhoon AP-15's for example have a start up current of about 0.36A and a nominal current of 0.083A. Depending on what fan you want to run, you can just use a splitter.
> 
> You'd have to check the motherboard maker. Most are about 1A per header.


thanks as always
dan


----------



## DanBr

If I understand correctly, using PWM fans to control speed, the fans run at full 12 volts and generate less heat than using 3 wire fans and controlling speed by voltage.

which is the preferred method for the Aquaero 6. and what splitter is the easiest to configure

I think I just had a revelation. On a 3 pin fan does one of the wires actually control RPM? Is that what 47Knucklehead talked about cutting a wire. I thought only 4 wire fans had a RPM wire.

Any one know what fan extension cables are rated for.
lets say, 8 rad fans push/pull on channel 1, .25watts each would come to 2amps and 24 watts
one cable from Aquaero to splitter for each channel


----------



## josetortola

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *josetortola*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> i would ask hwinfo, from our input in his forums he is the one that was able to get ( in conjunction with aqua computer ) hwinfo to send the info to the aquaero, and then later in conjunction with aqua computer was able to read the aquaero !~ but it didnt happen till someone suggested it !~
> 
> 
> 
> Thank you very much for the idea.
> 
> I've asked there about it.
Click to expand...

Sorry for refloating this, but just to let you know that Martin has added support of Remote Sensor Monitoring within local network (Beta stage) in the last HWInfo Beta 4.63-2540 (forum post here)

As soon as I get home I'll try it


----------



## ozzy1925

i plugged my Flow sensor "high flow" to my aquaero but i see 0/0h flow .Should it be calibrated to see some value there ?


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DanBr*
> 
> If I understand correctly, using PWM fans to control speed, the fans run at full 12 volts and generate less heat than using 3 wire fans and controlling speed by voltage.
> 
> which is the preferred method for the Aquaero 6. and what splitter is the easiest to configure
> 
> I think I just had a revelation. On a 3 pin fan does one of the wires actually control RPM? Is that what 47Knucklehead talked about cutting a wire. I thought only 4 wire fans had a RPM wire.
> 
> Any one know what fan extension cables are rated for.
> lets say, 8 rad fans push/pull on channel 1, .25watts each would come to 2amps and 24 watts
> one cable from Aquaero to splitter for each channel


3 pin fans have the pins connected as; ground, Positive power, Tachometer. PWM fans just add an extra wire which is why the connectors look the same but with an extra pin tacked on, and why you can use both types on the same devices

On 3 pin fans the only thing that controls speed is the voltage you put into it. They are voltage controlled

All normal PC fans include an RPM wire to report how fast they are spinning, otherwise they would only need a positive and ground wire. With multiple fans connected you don't really want all those signals going back to the host device or it can become confused and unable to read the speed. So only one fan has its speed signal connected.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ozzy1925*
> 
> i plugged my Flow sensor "high flow" to my aquaero but i see 0/0h flow .Should it be calibrated to see some value there ?


No, if it is connected properly, you are looking in the right place and the pump is running it will show a flow rate.


----------



## ozzy1925

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> 3 pin fans have the pins connected as; ground, Positive power, Tachometer. PWM fans just add an extra wire which is why the connectors look the same but with an extra pin tacked on, and why you can use both types on the same devices
> 
> On 3 pin fans the only thing that controls speed is the voltage you put into it. They are voltage controlled
> 
> All normal PC fans include an RPM wire to report how fast they are spinning, otherwise they would only need a positive and ground wire. With multiple fans connected you don't really want all those signals going back to the host device or it can become confused and unable to read the speed. So only one fan has its speed signal connected.
> No, if it is connected properly, you are looking in the right place and the pump is running it will show a flow rate.


thanks, i found out the yellow pin of the flow sensor is cracked







i wish i had the equipment to fix the wire need to order new cable


----------



## DanBr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> 3 pin fans have the pins connected as; ground, Positive power, Tachometer. PWM fans just add an extra wire which is why the connectors look the same but with an extra pin tacked on, and why you can use both types on the same devices
> 
> On 3 pin fans the only thing that controls speed is the voltage you put into it. They are voltage controlled
> 
> All normal PC fans include an RPM wire to report how fast they are spinning, otherwise they would only need a positive and ground wire. With multiple fans connected you don't really want all those signals going back to the host device or it can become confused and unable to read the speed. So only one fan has its speed signal connected.
> No, if it is connected properly, you are looking in the right place and the pump is running it will show a flow rate.


thanks
Dan


----------



## SchmoSalt

I just got my Aquaero 6 Pro today. As with the Farbwerk what a fantastic piece of hardware this is.

I have a question about using the Farbwerk on the Aquabus. I'm trying to control my LED strips through the Aquasuite with no success. Has anyone successfully done this before? I can't seem to find any information on how to do this through Google.


----------



## Shoggy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheTou*
> 
> Hi, I have a problem with controlling the relay via AquaComputerCmd.exe. When I execute the following:
> 
> Code:
> 
> 
> 
> Code:
> 
> 
> AquaComputerCmd.exe -sn:04921-39263 -relay:100
> 
> the value for LED blue get's set to 100 instead of the relay. Is this a bug or a feature?
> 
> I tried different options, they all seem to be messed up:
> 
> -relay controlls blue LED
> -ledr controlls relay
> -ledg controlls power output 1
> -ledb controll power output 2
> -pwm1 controlls red LED
> -pwm2 controlls green LED
> 
> I haven't checked the -fan options though.
> 
> I have Aquaero 6 Pro with firmware 2003 and aquasuite 2015-6 on Windows 8.1 x64


Thanks, has been noted and we will look into that. Very likely that with changing the internal links a while ago something was messed up.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SchmoSalt*
> 
> I have a question about using the Farbwerk on the Aquabus.


You have to connect the farbwerk at least one time via USB and change the mode of every channel to be controlled by an external source (aquabus).


----------



## josetortola

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *josetortola*
> 
> Sorry for refloating this, but just to let you know that Martin has added support of Remote Sensor Monitoring within local network (Beta stage) in the last HWInfo Beta 4.63-2540 (forum post here)
> 
> As soon as I get home I'll try it


Quoting myself seems such a bad habit... sorry.

I've tried the last HWInfo64 beta and networking functions work really great. But Aquasuite cannot read the remote data shown in HWInfo64 Sensor's page.

Did anybody else tried this?. ( CC @Shoggy )

With this last beta we're very close to be able to have the data of all the Aquaeros in the network shown in the same Aquasuite Overview page


----------



## Shoggy

No idea what you mean. Can you provide some more information (screenshots maybe?).


----------



## josetortola

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> No idea what you mean. Can you provide some more information (screenshots maybe?).


Yes, of course.

With the last Beta, HWInfo 4.63-2540 has added remote sensor monitoring. So if you enable a remote PC in your network with HWInfo installed to act as "server", you will have in your local PC's HWInfo the data from the remote PC.



In this screenshot you can see, after all the displayed data from the local PC (included the data read from Aquaero), HWInfo sensors page shows the data from the remote PC with the label _[PC-SALON]_ in front of it (the name that this remote PC has in the network).

This feature, obviously, allows HWInfo to read the remote PC's Aquaero data also.



I've asked Martin about this feature because, as shown, I have some PCs in the same network with AQs installed, and I thought that could be great to have the data of all them displayed in one overview page, so I can visually control all my watercooled PC status remotely and in only one page.

But when I try to add the remote monitored sensors to the overview pages, the window that let me select the data source for the new items (or change the data source for an existing one) do not display the remote monitored sensors in HWInfo, even they are displayed in HWInfo sensors page.



As you can see, the last data source from HWInfo is the local ethernet adapter, and the remote monitored data sources (the ones that start with the label _[PC-SALON]_ in HWInfo sensors page) don't appear as available data sources in Aquasuite.

I've talked to Martin about this here, and he tolds me that "the remote sensor implementation is universal and allows 3rd party applications to see remote sensors if they are properly using the right interface to HWiNFO".

So I don't know if it could be a problem with the interface that Aquasuite uses to read HWInfo sensors (maybe some kind of problem with the label in front of the remote ones?).

Thanks in advance!


----------



## Jakusonfire

Interesting idea there. I prefer to have the aquaeros set to look after themselves so they don't need monitoring and remote desktops so that network systems can be adjusted instead of just monitored.


----------



## josetortola

Of course, all my AQs are set to look after themselves and work with they own physical sensor's data (temperature, flow, rpm...), as they can operate as stand-alone units once they're configured.

I do not trust in software sensors, services or applications running to make my AQs work. I'm affraid of if I do that and any of this software failing (freezing or something), AQ's can go wild and maybe ruin my PCs with overtemperatures...

But I like to see how AQs are working and the PC general status and temperatures. And Aquasuite Overview Pages are the best tool to have all this data in just a look.

Sometimes you can use one PC to take a heavy load (as renders) while you're using other PC in the network. And maybe I'm adiccted to control, but I thought that would be great to have also that remote monitoring data displayed in an overview page in the local PC that you're using.

And this could be only the begining... so if HWInfo could pass your PC monitoring data through your network, you could also use some app in your smartphone to have it displayed and have alerts on it while you're connected to your local wi-fi network, for example.


----------



## DanBr

What is the best placement for temp sensors in a watercooled system.

Can anyone link to a guide on how to use the software for the Aquaero 6? I must be missing something as I don't see it here or on youtube.
The software is AquaSuite isn't it

thanks
Dan
Want to understand prior to purchase


----------



## SchmoSalt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> You have to connect the farbwerk at least one time via USB and change the mode of every channel to be controlled by an external source (aquabus).


Thanks for the help! This worked perfectly.


----------



## NE0XY

Does the bitspower flowsensor thing work with the Aquaero? =)
Thanks


----------



## InfoSeeker

false
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DanBr*
> 
> What is the best placement for temp sensors in a watercooled system.
> 
> Can anyone link to a guide on how to use the software for the Aquaero 6? I must be missing something as I don't see it here or on youtube.
> The software is AquaSuite isn't it
> 
> thanks
> Dan
> Want to understand prior to purchase


Temp sensor placement depends on what you are interested in monitoring. For myself, I placed one sensor at the radiator inlet and one at the radiator outlet. This way I know the maximum temperature reached in the loop, the temp drop across the rad (efficiency) and the lowest temp attained. I also like to monitor the ambient air temperature to see the delta between it and the water out of the radiator. (another efficiency parameter).

The aquaero manual is probably your best source for the aquaero AND aquasuite.


----------



## DanBr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *InfoSeeker*
> 
> false
> Temp sensor placement depends on what you are interested in monitoring. For myself, I placed one sensor at the radiator inlet and one at the radiator outlet. This way I know the maximum temperature reached in the loop, the temp drop across the rad (efficiency) and the lowest temp attained. I also like to monitor the ambient air temperature to see the delta between it and the water out of the radiator. (another efficiency parameter).
> 
> The aquaero manual is probably your best source for the aquaero AND aquasuite.


So you are using some kind of fitting that the water flows thru with the temp probe in it (other than the ambient air probe)

thanks, I saved the manual and will start reading tonight. This is my first watercooled build and first ever contact with the Aquaero
dan


----------



## InfoSeeker

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DanBr*
> 
> So you are using some kind of fitting that the water flows thru with the temp probe in it (other than the ambient air probe)
> 
> Dan


Yes, I used this aquacomuter inline sensor.


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DanBr*
> 
> What is the best placement for temp sensors in a watercooled system.
> 
> Can anyone link to a guide on how to use the software for the Aquaero 6? I must be missing something as I don't see it here or on youtube.
> The software is AquaSuite isn't it
> 
> thanks
> Dan
> Want to understand prior to purchase


This is a good place to start as well as the latest manuals, this thread and the aquacomp forum.
http://www.namsreviewsandguides.co.uk

Most new user questions get asked and answered regularly so reading back through the thread and forum is a gold mine.

There are many ways to use and set up the Aquaero and aquasuite. My fave, and to me the most logical is using the difference between an intake air sensor and a water sensor as the controlling element for fan speeds but there are lots of different approaches to it


----------



## DanBr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> This is a good place to start as well as the latest manuals, this thread and the aquacomp forum.
> http://www.namsreviewsandguides.co.uk
> 
> Most new user questions get asked and answered regularly so reading back through the thread and forum is a gold mine.
> 
> There are many ways to use and set up the Aquaero and aquasuite. My fave, and to me the most logical is using the difference between an intake air sensor and a water sensor as the controlling element for fan speeds but there are lots of different approaches to it


thanks, I am reading the forums but I need a baseline understanding.
I looked at that Namsreview site and I found it more confusing then helpful. Maybe after I read the manual

Dan


----------



## Archea47

My Aquaero 6 Pro arrived today - along with proposing marriage in less than 24 hours from now it's happy days!









I'm curious to see how and where people are mounting their temperature sensors. I like the idea of ambient vs. Water for fan curves

Also which flow sensors has the club had success with?


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Archea47*
> 
> My Aquaero 6 Pro arrived today - along with proposing marriage in less than 24 hours from now it's happy days!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm curious to see how and where people are mounting their temperature sensors. I like the idea of ambient vs. Water for fan curves
> 
> Also which flow sensors has the club had success with?


That's a bit much isn't it? I mean the Aq 6 is good and all but marrying one? Just dunno about that. How will it respond when you ask it? Short beep for yes and long for no?

There is an art to successfully placing temp sensors, especially for ambient or intake air. I have the sensor directly in front of the front intake fan, but you must ensure that the front of the case is sealed so no exhaust or internal air can reach the sensor. If it can, or if the sensor is too close to a radiant heat source like a rad, then you can watch ambient climb with system load instead of staying steady as it should.
As standard most cases aren't good at that with lots of vent holes in the front, so I personally have the whole front panel sealed around the front rad with neoprene. Ambient stays dead steady even with intensive load.


----------



## Shoggy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *josetortola*
> 
> But when I try to add the remote monitored sensors to the overview pages, the window that let me select the data source for the new items (or change the data source for an existing one) do not display the remote monitored sensors in HWInfo, even they are displayed in HWInfo sensors page.


OK, we will have a look into that.


----------



## josetortola

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> OK, we will have a look into that.


Thank you!


----------



## Archea47

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> That's a bit much isn't it? I mean the Aq 6 is good and all but marrying one? Just dunno about that. How will it respond when you ask it? Short beep for yes and long for no?
> 
> There is an art to successfully placing temp sensors, especially for ambient or intake air. I have the sensor directly in front of the front intake fan, but you must ensure that the front of the case is sealed so no exhaust or internal air can reach the sensor. If it can, or if the sensor is too close to a radiant heat source like a rad, then you can watch ambient climb with system load instead of staying steady as it should.
> As standard most cases aren't good at that with lots of vent holes in the front, so I personally have the whole front panel sealed around the front rad with neoprene. Ambient stays dead steady even with intensive load.


Haha but we are in _Love_!









+rep on the sensor advice. For my S8 I have all solid panels on the front apart from one rad intake with gaskets etc. - might work well.

For affixing to the end tank of a radiator ... I'll sand the paint off to bare metal and then I can just electrical tape the sensor on? I haven't worked with this type of sensor before. Are they pretty fragile?


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Archea47*
> 
> Haha but we are in _Love_!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> +rep on the sensor advice. For my S8 I have all solid panels on the front apart from one rad intake with gaskets etc. - might work well.
> 
> For affixing to the end tank of a radiator ... I'll sand the paint off to bare metal and then I can just electrical tape the sensor on? I haven't worked with this type of sensor before. Are they pretty fragile?


If you are using a S8 you can try to fix the intake sensor on one of the bottom openings, like a 120 fan hole still with the plate on it. That way the sensor will be out of the case and the plate and case frame will fix it in position. As for the water tank (to get the water temp) I don't think you need to scratch the paint off.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Archea47*
> 
> My Aquaero 6 Pro arrived today - along with proposing marriage in less than 24 hours from now it's happy days!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm curious to see how and where people are mounting their temperature sensors. I like the idea of ambient vs. Water for fan curves


Congrats first.

I put my intakes in front of my fans. But I dont need all that insulation as my fans pull in plenty of air to not get interference from other sources.


----------



## InfoSeeker

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Archea47*
> 
> For affixing to the end tank of a radiator ... I'll sand the paint off to bare metal and then I can just electrical tape the sensor on? I haven't worked with this type of sensor before. Are they pretty fragile?


For water temps at the inlet or outlet of the rad, you may want to look at this, that or the other... no taping that will probably come loose.


----------



## elect

Hi guys,

just a question.. is the Aquaero 6 Pro OS independent?

And has anyone tried it with Linux (Ubuntu)?


----------



## Archea47

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> Congrats first.
> 
> I put my intakes in front of my fans. But I dont need all that insulation as my fans pull in plenty of air to not get interference from other sources.


Thanks Mega! She said yes BTW









I'm not sure how far I can turn the fans I have down, I'm expecting 1500 perhaps to be the bottom limit. You used plural for intakes - are you getting any useful data from 2+ over one air intake sensor? Also does high fan speed cause noise on the sensor?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> If you are using a S8 you can try to fix the intake sensor on one of the bottom openings, like a 120 fan hole still with the plate on it. That way the sensor will be out of the case and the plate and case frame will fix it in position. As for the water tank (to get the water temp) I don't think you need to scratch the paint off.


Thanks for the input!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *InfoSeeker*
> 
> For water temps at the inlet or outlet of the rad, you may want to look at this, that or the other... no taping that will probably come loose.


Any problem with these leaking? I would feel most comfortable with the plug type. Maybe I should do both end tank and plug type and share back my results

Leaks etc. was a similar thought I had when I asked about what water flow meters people have been successful with. I read about the AC's rattling. I read earlier in this thread that most of the temp sensors out there will work with AQ6. What about flow sensors?

I'd probably hide it in the pedestal - not searching for something to look at. I'd like to understand if/when my dual d5 setup is running too high


----------



## Mega Man

i use multiple intakes to make multiple water to temp deltas to independently control my rads for best silence ( i can completely shut off fans )


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Archea47*
> 
> Thanks Mega! She said yes BTW
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm not sure how far I can turn the fans I have down, I'm expecting 1500 perhaps to be the bottom limit. You used plural for intakes - are you getting any useful data from 2+ over one air intake sensor? Also does high fan speed cause noise on the sensor?
> Thanks for the input!
> Any problem with these leaking? I would feel most comfortable with the plug type. Maybe I should do both end tank and plug type and share back my results
> 
> Leaks etc. was a similar thought I had when I asked about what water flow meters people have been successful with. I read about the AC's rattling. I read earlier in this thread that most of the temp sensors out there will work with AQ6. What about flow sensors?
> 
> I'd probably hide it in the pedestal - not searching for something to look at. I'd like to understand if/when my dual d5 setup is running too high


As for the flow meter I prefer the mps 400. No moving parts, very low restriction and accurate up to 2 GPM. I have used both the USB high flow and MPS 400. Koolance flow meter is also a good one. As how you would integrate that one in to the Aquaero I am not sure but It Diva and Fast Fate if I recall correctly have done that in the past. I suppose you can read the flow as rpm in the Aquaero and do the coversion to arrive at the flow of your loop. But check with Darlene and FF before going the koolance route
http://koolance.com/coolant-flow-meter-stainless-steel-with-temperature-sensor-sen-fm18t10

as for the temp sensors you can always calibrate it before putting in the loop using the offset on the Aquasuite. Have used the aquacomputer inline as well as bitspower end cap ones and have good experiences with both. In any case is always a good thing to test it before putting in the loop.


----------



## 47 Knucklehead

What's the best way to seal the AQ 6XT so that dust doesn't get in behind the glass? I mean I guess I could use black electrical tape, but I'm not sure that would cause a thermal issue.

The little bits of dust are driving me nuts.


----------



## Newtocooling

I had trouble in the past getting my D5 Aquacomputer pump not showing me RPM on my Aquaero. IT Diva and Fast Fate I think told me that both the pump and Aquaero need to be on the same ground line. So if I'm using a Bitspower X-station as I don't have enough molex cables to cover everything, and the Aquaero is going into the X-station, and the pump is going directly into a molex plug coming from power supply, would this be the reason I cannot see an RPM readout on the Aquaero? I did change the fan channel I'm using for the pump to PWM control. When I plug the pump directly into the motherboard I can get the RPM readout, but not on the Aquaero.


----------



## DNMock

Having some issues getting the Aquasuite t o work properly with my Aquaero 6, tried checking the links in the OP but seems like the ones I need to see aren't that good of links or broken and the manual doesn't help a whole lot either.

Trying to explain to the Aquaero that Fan 1 is actually a pump and to apply the curve controllers to regulate the fan and pump RPMS.

Got the curve I want established, but can't seem to figure out how to get it to apply properly. Anyone know of a link to an active "Aquasuite-For-Dummies" by chance?


----------



## Shoggy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *elect*
> 
> just a question.. is the Aquaero 6 Pro OS independent?
> 
> And has anyone tried it with Linux (Ubuntu)?


The aquaero is an autonomous device and requires no software to run in the background or even a PC to work.

The aquaero should work with any operating system since it works as a HID (Human Interface Device) but you will also need software and we have none for Linux but you can take a look at this tool from a member of this forum.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Newtocooling*
> 
> When I plug the pump directly into the motherboard I can get the RPM readout, but not on the Aquaero.


Have you already tried to connect a fan to this channel on the aquaero just to make sure that it works at all?

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DNMock*
> 
> Trying to explain to the Aquaero that Fan 1 is actually a pump and to apply the curve controllers to regulate the fan and pump RPMS.
> 
> Got the curve I want established, but can't seem to figure out how to get it to apply properly. Anyone know of a link to an active "Aquasuite-For-Dummies" by chance?


I guess a screenshot of your current setup would be helpful


----------



## DNMock

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> Have you already tried to connect a fan to this channel on the aquaero just to make sure that it works at all?
> I guess a screenshot of your current setup would be helpful


Like the components and how they are connected, or of what I got set up in Aquasuite or both?


----------



## LostParticle

@Shoggy

On Windows 10 Technical Preview, build 10147, here is how the Aquasuite displays on my system - which is fully shown in my sig_rig - when I use the Display settings included in the screenshot. My monitors are both set to their native resolutions, I use 100% "zoom", and I just "Change only the text size" to 12.


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## Shoggy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DNMock*
> 
> Like the components and how they are connected, or of what I got set up in Aquasuite or both?


I meant your aquasuite setup but adding a photo of the system might be also helpful.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LostParticle*
> 
> On Windows 10 Technical Preview, build 10147, here is how the Aquasuite displays on my system - which is fully shown in my sig_rig - when I use the Display settings included in the screenshot. My monitors are both set to their native resolutions, I use 100% "zoom", and I just "Change only the text size" to 12.


It is a known problem which also effects many other programs. Unfortunately this will not be fixed. These scaling problems have been with Windows since this function exists


----------



## thekasafist

I am very happy to have found this OCN Aquaero thread as I plan to buy the Aquaero 6 w/ IR remote controller perhaps this fall. One of my questions at the moment is pretty straight forward can it be possible to control LED strips with this fan controller by any chance? Also as far as sound reactive functions for the LED strips through the AQ6 and such things. Such as perhaps some custom macro through the Aquasuite?


----------



## Archea47

PPCs has the new Blue-LED Aquaero 6 XT for a shave less than the Aquaero 6 Pro or the old model XT with the red LEDs


----------



## thekasafist

I already have it on my wishlist on PPCs I have an account. I regularly check it. I am hoping someone has made an attempt to control an RGB LED strip with this fan controller. I figure maybe someone out there has expiremented enough to try it. If not then I may end up being the first not maybe. That won't be for some time though. I do rather like the blue LEDs better just simply biased to the color though no other reason hehe. Anyhow if anybody manages to confirm whether there is some way to actually use an LED strip with the Aquaero 6 XT then please let me know to your earliest convenienve. Thanks in advance!


----------



## Ironsmack

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thekasafist*
> 
> I already have it on my wishlist on PPCs I have an account. I regularly check it. I am hoping someone has made an attempt to control an RGB LED strip with this fan controller. I figure maybe someone out there has expiremented enough to try it. If not then I may end up being the first not maybe. That won't be for some time though. I do rather like the blue LEDs better just simply biased to the color though no other reason hehe. Anyhow if anybody manages to confirm whether there is some way to actually use an LED strip with the Aquaero 6 XT then please let me know to your earliest convenienve. Thanks in advance!


The Farbwerk is an additional addon if you want to control RBG LED's.


----------



## DNMock

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> I meant your aquasuite setup but adding a photo of the system might be also helpful.


Ok, after working on it a while longer, I was able to get the fans to operate with the curve controller, but the pump doesn't seem to care much.

Still can't seem to figure out how to explain the Aquasuite and the Aquaero that what's plugged into the fan 1 header is a pump. It's reporting the RPM's properly, but even by dropping the power to 0, the pump still keeps chugging along at around 4500 rpm. I'll get the images uploaded tonight when I get home from work.

edit: The pump is a swiftech mcp 35x2, and the power control worked just fine when it was plugged into the motherboard and controlled by Asus FanXpert, and since the rpm's are being properly reported (pumps just running at max) I'm fairly certain I'm suffering from a brainfart / user error or am just straight up missing something in Aquasuite.


----------



## thekasafist

Could I kindly ask you to provide me a link to that please!? I would greatly appreciate it!


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DNMock*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> I meant your aquasuite setup but adding a photo of the system might be also helpful.
> 
> 
> 
> Ok, after working on it a while longer, I was able to get the fans to operate with the curve controller, but the pump doesn't seem to care much.
> 
> Still can't seem to figure out how to explain the Aquasuite and the Aquaero that what's plugged into the fan 1 header is a pump. It's reporting the RPM's properly, but even by dropping the power to 0, the pump still keeps chugging along at around 4500 rpm. I'll get the images uploaded tonight when I get home from work.
> 
> edit: The pump is a swiftech mcp 35x2, and the power control worked just fine when it was plugged into the motherboard and controlled by Asus FanXpert, and since the rpm's are being properly reported (pumps just running at max) I'm fairly certain I'm suffering from a brainfart / user error or am just straight up missing something in Aquasuite.
Click to expand...

The 35X2 is PWM controlled and you'll need to use the splitter that comes with it so that the A6 can be sending the PWM signal to both pumps.

The splitter is already set up so that only 1 of the pumps sends an RPM signal back to the A6.

Plug the pumps into the splitter, the splitter to an A6 channel, the pumps' molexes to the PSU

You'll need also to set the control mode for the splitter's channel in Aquasite to PWM.

Those pumps will have their min speed at about 15 to 20 percent, and max out at about 60 to 70 percent, if you're trying to set up a curve.

Overall for pumps, I'd suggest a 2 step controller based on delta t . . . .

Have the pumps at a low speed for very low delta t's, and shift to higher speed at a slightly higher delta t.

Start your fan curve based on delta t to start speeding them up, after you have the pumps at their higher speed.

Darlene


----------



## InfoSeeker

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thekasafist*
> 
> Could I kindly ask you to provide me a link to that please!? I would greatly appreciate it!


You are looking for a link to farbwerk?


----------



## thekasafist

Yes any link to a website that I could buy it from so I can install it to the Aquaero as soon as I have it. I would like to be able to control the RGB LED strip immediately after I purchase the AQ6 XT! I appreciate the help in advance thank you!


----------



## DNMock

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> The 35X2 is PWM controlled and you'll need to use the splitter that comes with it so that the A6 can be sending the PWM signal to both pumps.
> 
> The splitter is already set up so that only 1 of the pumps sends an RPM signal back to the A6.
> 
> Plug the pumps into the splitter, the splitter to an A6 channel, the pumps' molexes to the PSU
> 
> You'll need also to set the control mode for the splitter's channel in Aquasite to PWM.
> 
> Those pumps will have their min speed at about 15 to 20 percent, and max out at about 60 to 70 percent, if you're trying to set up a curve.
> 
> Overall for pumps, I'd suggest a 2 step controller based on delta t . . . .
> 
> Have the pumps at a low speed for very low delta t's, and shift to higher speed at a slightly higher delta t.
> 
> Start your fan curve based on delta t to start speeding them up, after you have the pumps at their higher speed.
> 
> Darlene


Sounds good I'll give that a go this evening


----------



## InfoSeeker

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thekasafist*
> 
> Yes any link to a website that I could buy it from so I can install it to the Aquaero as soon as I have it. I would like to be able to control the RGB LED strip immediately after I purchase the AQ6 XT! I appreciate the help in advance thank you!


Here is a link to the farbwerk manual.

As to where to purchase a farbwerk, that depends a bit on where in the world you live.
In the USA you can go to Performance PCs.
In Europe you can buy from aquacomputer or Aquatuning.
If those don't work for you, Google it.


----------



## Trestles126

just rebuilt my computer added a second gpu my open hardware monitor displays the correct temps, but when I go through aquasuite and select the second gpu under software monitor it has a default temp of 50. even though the open hardware app shows both gpus and two slightly different temps?


----------



## bkvamme

@Shoggy Just some feedback on Aquasuite, it reads the CPU Package Power as percentage, while it should be in Watts. The HWInfo Shared Memory viewer correctly shows the unit as watts, so not sure what's going on here









Here's a picture of it.


----------



## Shoggy

OK, is noted.


----------



## SynchroSCP

Just ordered a 6 XT and accessories from ppcs. Can someone link me to the schematic or instructions for making the mod to get a D5 pwm working with the aquaero.

Thx!


----------



## DanBr

Pre Purchase question (one of many perhaps)
I am going to get the Aquaero 6 and I have no experience with it.
I read the manual, and am following the owners thread

Do I understand that if I have a water temp fitting, and the flow meter that is used with the Aquaero, that parameters can be set that would shut down the PC if
either the temp was too high or the flow was too low ( failing or stopped pump)
If it does shut down the PC, is it a regular windows shut down or is it like you just pulled the plug on the PC

Are these functions in the standalone unit or do you need something like the AquaSuite software.

Thanks
Dan


----------



## Artah

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DanBr*
> 
> Pre Purchase question (one of many perhaps)
> I am going to get the Aquaero 6 and I have no experience with it.
> I read the manual, and am following the owners thread
> 
> Do I understand that if I have a water temp fitting, and the flow meter that is used with the Aquaero, that parameters can be set that would shut down the PC if
> either the temp was too high or the flow was too low ( failing or stopped pump)
> If it does shut down the PC, is it a regular windows shut down or is it like you just pulled the plug on the PC
> 
> Are these functions in the standalone unit or do you need something like the AquaSuite software.
> 
> Thanks
> Dan


You can have it press the power for you so on windows 7/8 it will be a regular shutdown as opposed to cutting power IIRC. I played around with it but I don't leave my computer on 24x7 so no need to keep it that way but I can check when I get home. I think I set it so when the pump shuts down or the water hits 90c I press the power.


----------



## bkvamme

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DanBr*
> 
> Pre Purchase question (one of many perhaps)
> I am going to get the Aquaero 6 and I have no experience with it.
> I read the manual, and am following the owners thread
> 
> Do I understand that if I have a water temp fitting, and the flow meter that is used with the Aquaero, that parameters can be set that would shut down the PC if
> either the temp was too high or the flow was too low ( failing or stopped pump)
> If it does shut down the PC, is it a regular windows shut down or is it like you just pulled the plug on the PC
> 
> Are these functions in the standalone unit or do you need something like the AquaSuite software.
> 
> Thanks
> Dan


Hi,
You need some kind of standalone software. I use HWinfo to do this. Essentially you can set up alarms that do various things, one of which is to send/don't send a RPM signal to the motherboard. I have set it up so that the RPM signal is on during normal operation, and if the pump stops for 10 seconds, it shuts down the computer via the shutdown -s -t 00 command.


----------



## Barefooter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SynchroSCP*
> 
> Just ordered a 6 XT and accessories from ppcs. Can someone link me to the schematic or instructions for making the mod to get a D5 pwm working with the aquaero.
> 
> Thx!


Here's a link to the post http://www.overclock.net/t/1474470/ocn-aquaero-owners-club/50#post_21956203

You can buy everything at radio shack.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Artah*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *DanBr*
> 
> Pre Purchase question (one of many perhaps)
> I am going to get the Aquaero 6 and I have no experience with it.
> I read the manual, and am following the owners thread
> 
> Do I understand that if I have a water temp fitting, and the flow meter that is used with the Aquaero, that parameters can be set that would shut down the PC if
> either the temp was too high or the flow was too low ( failing or stopped pump)
> If it does shut down the PC, is it a regular windows shut down or is it like you just pulled the plug on the PC
> 
> Are these functions in the standalone unit or do you need something like the AquaSuite software.
> 
> Thanks
> Dan
> 
> 
> 
> You can have it press the power for you so on windows 7/8 it will be a regular shutdown as opposed to cutting power IIRC. I played around with it but I don't leave my computer on 24x7 so no need to keep it that way but I can check when I get home. I think I set it so when the pump shuts down or the water hits 90c I press the power.
Click to expand...

Not easily anymore. You can but imo there are better ways.

The 6 removed the 2 pin button that ties into your power switch.

You can wire the relay to do the same thing or just have it open the Pson. Which imo is easier

Other wise it can send a signal through windows to shut down pc.

Just like you do when you tell it to shutdown via start menu. I don't like this because if your pc freezes. You have no way to gaurentee it will shut down. ( I have also seen the pc not shut down via the power switch which is why I prefer to open Pson )
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bkvamme*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *DanBr*
> 
> Pre Purchase question (one of many perhaps)
> I am going to get the Aquaero 6 and I have no experience with it.
> I read the manual, and am following the owners thread
> 
> Do I understand that if I have a water temp fitting, and the flow meter that is used with the Aquaero, that parameters can be set that would shut down the PC if
> either the temp was too high or the flow was too low ( failing or stopped pump)
> If it does shut down the PC, is it a regular windows shut down or is it like you just pulled the plug on the PC
> 
> Are these functions in the standalone unit or do you need something like the AquaSuite software.
> 
> Thanks
> Dan
> 
> 
> 
> Hi,
> You need some kind of standalone software. I use HWinfo to do this. Essentially you can set up alarms that do various things, one of which is to send/don't send a RPM signal to the motherboard. I have set it up so that the RPM signal is on during normal operation, and if the pump stops for 10 seconds, it shuts down the computer via the shutdown -s -t 00 command.
Click to expand...

No you don't need anything external if you don't want to (programs anyway)


----------



## Artah

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DanBr*
> 
> Pre Purchase question (one of many perhaps)
> I am going to get the Aquaero 6 and I have no experience with it.
> I read the manual, and am following the owners thread
> 
> Do I understand that if I have a water temp fitting, and the flow meter that is used with the Aquaero, that parameters can be set that would shut down the PC if
> either the temp was too high or the flow was too low ( failing or stopped pump)
> If it does shut down the PC, is it a regular windows shut down or is it like you just pulled the plug on the PC
> 
> Are these functions in the standalone unit or do you need something like the AquaSuite software.
> 
> Thanks
> Dan


Oh yes, this is what I did. Basically I hooked up the relay normally open contact in parallel to the power switch and had the Aquaero momentarily come on when certain conditions are met. You want to make sure you buy the relay connectors they are cheap unless you want to do a DIY but if you're spending that kind of cash on a controller another few dollars wouldn't set you back that much.

http://www.overclockers.com/forums/showthread.php/740835-Aquaero-6-XT-vs-Aquaero-6-PRO

I ultimately changed the relay function so that it brings my UV light on when the whole system is in full cooling speed. Basically the computer lights up like a Christmas tree when all the fans/pump are full speed. That serves as a warning for me that I am running at high temperatures. When I'm browsing the internet my computer is as quiet as it can be but when I'm gaming it sounds like an exhaust of an F16 after a few hours.


----------



## DanBr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Artah*
> 
> Oh yes, this is what I did. Basically I hooked up the relay normally open contact in parallel to the power switch and had the Aquaero momentarily come on when certain conditions are met. You want to make sure you buy the relay connectors they are cheap unless you want to do a DIY but if you're spending that kind of cash on a controller another few dollars wouldn't set you back that much.
> 
> http://www.overclockers.com/forums/showthread.php/740835-Aquaero-6-XT-vs-Aquaero-6-PRO
> 
> I ultimately changed the relay function so that it brings my UV light on when the whole system is in full cooling speed. Basically the computer lights up like a Christmas tree when all the fans/pump are full speed. That serves as a warning for me that I am running at high temperatures. When I'm browsing the internet my computer is as quiet as it can be but when I'm gaming it sounds like an exhaust of an F16 after a few hours.


thanks for pointing me in the right direction, but you lost me at "normally open contact in parallel to the power switch"








Good to know it can be done, I will keep reading
Dan


----------



## Mega Man

i can help you with wiring either way if you need


----------



## Archea47

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Barefooter*
> 
> Here's a link to the post http://www.overclock.net/t/1474470/ocn-aquaero-owners-club/50#post_21956203
> 
> You can buy everything at radio shack.


I might have an extra couple hundred resistors from doing mine


----------



## Artah

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Archea47*
> 
> I might have an extra couple hundred resistors from doing mine


Lol got a couple of extras did ya?


----------



## Duskspeed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Yes, . . . .
> 
> There's a really good way with an add-on PCB, but there's also a quick and easy way that yields acceptable results without having to run wires and plug into a 5V molex pin somewhere.
> 
> Here's copied from the "old" A6 thread with some additional information:
> 
> For the capable DIY'er . . .
> 
> While not as optimal a solution as the active component based solutions, this is a workable solution to the issue of having a PWM D5.
> 
> 
> 
> I've tried it on a single and a dual D5 setup and it works satisfactorily with pullups optimized for each case, and it's dead nuts simple, though not exactly elegant.
> 
> At issue is that the D5 needs a fairly "strong" pullup, (lower resistance) . . . while the A6 works best with weaker pullups, (higher resistance).
> 
> This setup uses the 12V available from the first 2 of the 4 PWM fan pins on each channel of the A6.
> 
> The Zener diode and larger resistor form a 5V regulated source that the smaller resistor connects the PWM line to.
> 
> The diode is a 5.1V Zener diode, and the larger resistor, the 1/2 W one, is a 560 Ohm, but 470, 680, 820, or 1K will work as well. 1K may be the easiest to find.
> 
> Be sure you have the Zener diode polarity connected as in the pic.
> 
> The smaller resistor, 1/4 W, is a 2.2K which I'd suggest for a dual D5 setup, but for a single D5, a 3.3K would be fine.
> 
> The smaller size, 1/6W or 1/8W are electrically OK, but the smaller physical size makes lead breakage more of an issue, so stay with 1/4W.
> 
> Everything shown is available from RadioShack.
> 
> Hope that helps,
> 
> Darlene


Hey Darlene, this is sorta off topic but would this mod be usable on a mobo connection and not just the aquaero connection using a DDC pump with pwm?


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Duskspeed*
> 
> Hey Darlene, this is sorta off topic but would this mod be usable on a mobo connection and not just the aquaero connection using a DDC pump with pwm?


You don't need that mod for a DDC pump. You don't need that mod for a D5 PWM on Motherboard header. You only need that mod for a D5 pwm (non-aquacomputer) to work as per intel specs on an Aquaero.


----------



## Duskspeed

Hey Gabrielzm, I was just wondering because I just finished a loop and my pumps pwm is not controllable by the motherboards cpu_fan or cpu_opt headers on a rampage IV Extreme but does work on an older gigabyte GA-EX58-UD3R for some reason

Tested through the bios and with speedfan/fan xpert.

I'm just looking on the forums to see if there may be any similar issues and solutions regarding 2 pins not working until I can do some proper testing later this week when I can get back to the pc









Maybe even think about getting an aquaero mmmhh


----------



## Mega Man

are you sure you set it to PWM in the bios ? i have zero issues with over 8 ddcs

i have 2 pcs running atm with 8 ddcs in then ( 4 each ) and another .... 5 in other pcs around


----------



## Gabrielzm

It should work perfectly fine with the board. Are you sure the cpu fan header is in PWM mode? Check bios and manual for pwm option.


----------



## Shoggy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DanBr*
> 
> If it does shut down the PC, is it a regular windows shut down or is it like you just pulled the plug on the PC
> 
> Are these functions in the standalone unit or do you need something like the AquaSuite software.


It depends on your setup. Pretty much everything is possible:


Hard shutdown of the PSU directly through the relay and an adapter cable*
Hard shutdown of the PC with the relay by constantly "pressing" the power button*
If supported by the mainboard BIOS: hard shutdown when no rpm signal is present at the CPU fan header*
Configurable shutdown by normally "pressing" the power button through the relay (depends on your Windows configuration what will happen)*
Sending a keyboard command via USB to shutdown the system
Sending a keyboard command via USB to put the system to standby
None of these actions require to run the aquasuite in the background. The actions marked with an asterisk require additional wiring.


----------



## Duskspeed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> It should work perfectly fine with the board. Are you sure the cpu fan header is in PWM mode? Check bios and manual for pwm option.


Just went through the manual and bios again, the fan header controls from what the manual says point out that all the headers are pwm but from what other threads are saying only the cpu and cpu opt headers are pwm and both of them are linked together (other headers being miss labeled by Asus as voltage controlled not pwm?)

http://www.overclock.net/t/1401311/asus-rampage-extreme-iv-pwm-problem (talks about that^)

The bios controls allow me to change duty cycles for the cpu/opt header but there isn't simply a pwm switch :/and doing so does not change the rpms

Thank you for your help so far guys


----------



## DanBr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> It depends on your setup. Pretty much everything is possible:
> 
> 
> Hard shutdown of the PSU directly through the relay and an adapter cable*
> Hard shutdown of the PC with the relay by constantly "pressing" the power button*
> If supported by the mainboard BIOS: hard shutdown when no rpm signal is present at the CPU fan header*
> Configurable shutdown by normally "pressing" the power button through the relay (depends on your Windows configuration what will happen)*
> Sending a keyboard command via USB to shutdown the system
> Sending a keyboard command via USB to put the system to standby
> None of these actions require to run the aquasuite in the background. The actions marked with an asterisk require additional wiring.


First,
thanks to all the suggestions. At some point in the future I might investigate the ones that require wiring, but at this point I don't feel I could do that. Radio shack is like a foreign land to me
Shoggy,
How is the sending keyboard command via USB configured and can you set parameters on temp or fans or pump

thanks
Dan


----------



## Jakusonfire

The aquaero can be set so that many different parameters like rpms flow rates, temps etc can trigger an alarm. Then there are many different alarm levels, and each alarm level can trigger different actions including USB key presses, audio warnings or relay triggers.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Duskspeed*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> It should work perfectly fine with the board. Are you sure the cpu fan header is in PWM mode? Check bios and manual for pwm option.
> 
> 
> 
> Just went through the manual and bios again, the fan header controls from what the manual says point out that all the headers are pwm but from what other threads are saying only the cpu and cpu opt headers are pwm and both of them are linked together (other headers being miss labeled by Asus as voltage controlled not pwm?)
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1401311/asus-rampage-extreme-iv-pwm-problem (talks about that^)
> 
> The bios controls allow me to change duty cycles for the cpu/opt header but there isn't simply a pwm switch :/and doing so does not change the rpms
> 
> Thank you for your help so far guys
Click to expand...

The manual for RIVE and R4BE shows the PWM pin on all headers except CPU and CPU-Opt as being fixed at +5V.

When boards say "all PWM headers" . . . what they usually mean is that all the headers are compatable with a 4 pin PWM fan, but they are still voltage controlling that PWM fan.

(this is pretty consistent with most other boards as well)

If you were to plug a PWM fan on one of the non-CPU headers, the +5V on the PWM pin tells the fan's internal electronics to run at max speed.

What happens then, is that the 12V supply on the first 2 pins is being voltage controlled, so the fan speed reacts to that . . . . and gives the general appearance of it being PWM controlled, while it's really just voltage controlled.

When you connect a pump, the 12V is coming from the PSU via the Molex connection, and the only connection to the mobo is for the tach signal, and the +5V that's telling the pump to run at full speed.

To make PWM pumps control from a mobo, you generally HAVE TO use the CPU/Opt header.

I also just looked at my R5E manual, and it does show all the headers as PWM, not the +5V as shown in the 4 series manuals . . . . so that may be a change with the X99 boards, though I have not tried it to verify.

Darlene


----------



## Mega Man

Most of the x99 actually got a decent number of pwm headers and I mean real pwm

Not that it matters aquaero baby
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HC1994*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *white owl*
> 
> I don't use any software but Ai Suite is Asus correct?
> If you have an Asus board, go into the bios.
> Go to advanced mode and go to "monitor"
> There should be a Q fan option. Click it and let it run and it will test the min-max range of all your fans.
> Before you do that, the mobo will only let you turn them down so far.
> Hope this helps
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm not sure if Ai Suite will interfere with the bios options.
> 
> 
> 
> I will not be able to get back to my rig until this weekend, but I read through the manual and this is what I've found on the page detailing fan headers. I will try to change the fan settings in BIOS and see if they can use PWM and can let me go down to 20%-30%. Thanks!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> The headers on new X99 boards should be fully PWM ... the voltage headers that masquerade as PWM "compatible" is more a feature of older model boards.
> It is a common limitation though that they have a limited operational range with quite high minimum PWM duty cycles.
> 
> Genuine full range PWM controllers are still a rare thing sadly. There is the Aquaero 6, the Corsair link mini one and maybe soon the EK Ascendacy but that is really it.
> Asus do have the fan control add on board that comes with the X99 deluxe and I think is available for the other boards now but I'm not familiar with it and if it allows full range PWM control.
> 
> There is the option of making your own quite cheaply if you have any electronics and soldering experience.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Thanks!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I will try those options you suggested if things do not work out!
Click to expand...

And then I am proved wrong


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Duskspeed*
> 
> Just went through the manual and bios again, the fan header controls from what the manual says point out that all the headers are pwm but from what other threads are saying only the cpu and cpu opt headers are pwm and both of them are linked together (other headers being miss labeled by Asus as voltage controlled not pwm?)
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1401311/asus-rampage-extreme-iv-pwm-problem (talks about that^)
> 
> The bios controls allow me to change duty cycles for the cpu/opt header but there isn't simply a pwm switch :/and doing so does not change the rpms
> 
> Thank you for your help so far guys


Exactly what others are saying. Until the x99 generation all asus boards have only the cpu_fan header as true PWM. I have your board and is controlling a d5 pwm right now with no problem whatsoever. Maybe disable q-fan on bios but I am puzzled that is not controlling the ddc...


----------



## Duskspeed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Exactly what others are saying. Until the x99 generation all asus boards have only the cpu_fan header as true PWM. I have your board and is controlling a d5 pwm right now with no problem whatsoever. Maybe disable q-fan on bios but I am puzzled that is not controlling the ddc...


Yeah puzzling for me aswell, I have tried disabling q-fan but again no rpm control so it is possible that the boards headers are defective. I sent a ticket to Asus but if it is defective I doubt it will help although the board should still be under warranty so that's a plus


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Duskspeed*
> 
> Yeah puzzling for me aswell, I have tried disabling q-fan but again no rpm control so it is possible that the boards headers are defective. I sent a ticket to Asus but if it is defective I doubt it will help although the board should still be under warranty so that's a plus


can you post a picture of the setup? I mean the pump and its connectors to MB and PSU?


----------



## DanBr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> The aquaero can be set so that many different parameters like rpms flow rates, temps etc can trigger an alarm. Then there are many different alarm levels, and each alarm level can trigger different actions including USB key presses, audio warnings or relay triggers.


thanks, what is a USB key press?
If an alarm is triggered will it execute whatever action you set, without any more intervention by me
Dan


----------



## Duskspeed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> can you post a picture of the setup? I mean the pump and its connectors to MB and PSU?


CPU fan header



Molex power



2 Pin fan connector



This is my other motherboard controlling the PWM with its CPU_fan header


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DanBr*
> 
> thanks, what is a USB key press?
> If an alarm is triggered will it execute whatever action you set, without any more intervention by me
> Dan


The Aquaero can use the HID standard to simulate pressing sleep and power keys on a usb keyboard.

Yes the Aquaero does whatever it is set to do. You can set escalating alarm actions based on multiple conditions.


----------



## DanBr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> The Aquaero can use the HID standard to simulate pressing sleep and power keys on a usb keyboard.
> 
> Yes the Aquaero does whatever it is set to do. You can set escalating alarm actions based on multiple conditions.


thanks, Once I get this new build completed, I might trouble you to find out how to set it up.
Dan


----------



## aaroc

@Megaman PSON == Power Supply ON button?


----------



## Mega Man

pson


----------



## DNMock

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> The 35X2 is PWM controlled and you'll need to use the splitter that comes with it so that the A6 can be sending the PWM signal to both pumps.
> 
> The splitter is already set up so that only 1 of the pumps sends an RPM signal back to the A6.
> 
> Plug the pumps into the splitter, the splitter to an A6 channel, the pumps' molexes to the PSU
> 
> You'll need also to set the control mode for the splitter's channel in Aquasite to PWM.
> 
> Those pumps will have their min speed at about 15 to 20 percent, and max out at about 60 to 70 percent, if you're trying to set up a curve.
> 
> Overall for pumps, I'd suggest a 2 step controller based on delta t . . . .
> 
> Have the pumps at a low speed for very low delta t's, and shift to higher speed at a slightly higher delta t.
> 
> Start your fan curve based on delta t to start speeding them up, after you have the pumps at their higher speed.
> 
> Darlene


Used IT Diva's advice and got it to work properly







Problem though, flow rate drops pretty horribly extremely fast as the dual DDC pumps both at 4500 rpm's barely puts me at 1 gallon per minute while 3000 rpm's put me clear down at 1/2 gallons per minute. Think I need to either add a 3rd pump or just leave it be at max speed.

Noise isn't an issue anyway since I have it enclosed in a sound dampened box (sans intake and exhaust ports for the 80mm fan on the heatsink). So just gonna let it ride at max speed for the time being.

Thanks again for the help

P.S. I used Darlene's loop filling method and it worked amazing







Was smooth as butter. Again Thanks for that, arguably the best piece of advice I've gotten on OCN yet!


----------



## Dagamus NM

where is IT Diva's loop filling method written at? Something described as the best piece of advice a user on OCN has received is something I would like to read.


----------



## josetortola

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> OK, we will have a look into that.


Martin have looked into that also (post here):
Quote:


> I have done some additional testing and it seems the interface to 3rd party applications/plugins (including Aquasuite) will need to be updated to properly handle remote sensors. *I'll have to discuss this with them first and see what option will be the best one*. So for now, remote data will not be available to other tools until this is resolved.


Regards.


----------



## Costas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dagamus NM*
> 
> where is IT Diva's loop filling method written at? Something described as the best piece of advice a user on OCN has received is something I would like to read.


Here you go.....http://www.overclock.net/t/1474470/ocn-aquaero-owners-club/4030#post_23817328


----------



## thekasafist

I want to make sure that I buy the right stuff I am ready to purchase the new Aquaero 6 XT (blue LEDs) and I am considering buying the passive heatsink to go with it. The model number of the new one is Model: AQ-53206. Does this heatsink fit this new model AQ6 XT http://www.performance-pcs.com/aquacomputer-passive-heatsink-for-aquaero-6-black.html I have a reason for asking and trying to make sure. My reason is because the faceplate to the AQ6 (red LEDs) and the new AQ6 (blue LEDs) are different types. PPCS has a new faceplate for the one with blue LEDs so I want to make sure I shouldn't be waiting for a new passive heatsink for this model as well. Upfront to me they look the same just have different face and LED color. Please inform me otherwise? Thank in advance peeps I really appreciate it.

Sorry all can you please also confirm if this RGB LED works for this AQ6 XT as well? Thanks I greatly appreciate it!








http://www.performance-pcs.com/aquacomputer-rgb-led-lighting-module-for-aquaero-5-6.html#You-May-Also-Be-Interested


----------



## Mega Man

yes to all, but the rgb is small and used for min things if you wanna light up your case you need a farbwerk


----------



## thekasafist

So they're all compatible. Ok I just wanted to make sure before I spent the money. Thanks for letting me know about the RGB LED I'll continue to look into the Farbwerk being acquired at PPCS!


----------



## Trestles126

Does anyone have a problem of when the clear screen pops out (glue issue) that it starts scrolling thru the menus sporadically? Anyway to turn the touch screen off I always use aqua suite for any changes not the screen


----------



## DNMock

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dagamus NM*
> 
> where is IT Diva's loop filling method written at? Something described as the best piece of advice a user on OCN has received is something I would like to read.


Someone already linked it I see. I turned my entire desk into the case which means lots of tubing (~25 ft.) and lots of coolant (~5.5 liters) and filling it was a complete nightmare to do. Emulated Darlene's approach on it she kindly shared and it turned a 4 hour long messy fiasco into a 45 minute joy ride.


----------



## SAFX

Hello!

I'm in the market for custom loop, very impressed with Aqua Suite 2015, at least from screenshots.

Got a question: Can I test drive Aqua Suite without Aquaero? Primary interest is custom fan curves. I have AIDA64, so I can pump data to the software, not sure if it will work without AC hardware though.


----------



## bkvamme

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SAFX*
> 
> Hello!
> 
> I'm in the market for custom loop, very impressed with Aqua Suite 2015, at least from screenshots.
> 
> Got a question: Can I test drive Aqua Suite without Aquaero? Primary interest is custom fan curves. I have AIDA64, so I can pump data to the software, not sure if it will work without AC hardware though.


By my experience, no you cannot. The fan curve only shows up if you have an Aquaero installed. It's well worth it though. Once you go Aquaero, you never go back. Even considering buying one for my server!


----------



## SAFX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bkvamme*
> 
> By my experience, no you cannot. The fan curve only shows up if you have an Aquaero installed. It's well worth it though. Once you go Aquaero, you never go back. Even considering buying one for my server!


Yeah, that's what I figured! It's a gorgeous-looking UI, I guess I'l have to wait!

Are you pleased with AC hardware quality? I was looking at XSPC's Razor water block for my 295x2, but I'm also considering AC given its superior backplate for VRM cooling, it kills everything in the market.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SAFX*
> 
> Hello!
> 
> I'm in the market for custom loop, very impressed with Aqua Suite 2015, at least from screenshots.
> 
> Got a question: Can I test drive Aqua Suite without Aquaero? Primary interest is custom fan curves. I have AIDA64, so I can pump data to the software, not sure if it will work without AC hardware though.


as stated no:/


----------



## Archea47

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SAFX*
> 
> Yeah, that's what I figured! It's a gorgeous-looking UI, I guess I'l have to wait!
> 
> Are you pleased with AC hardware quality? I was looking at XSPC's Razor water block for my 295x2, but I'm also considering AC given its superior backplate for VRM cooling, it kills everything in the market.


I haven't used my Aquaero 6 yet, but I have a couple of their 290X blocks


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



The blocks and backplates are beautiful. Perfectly cut and finished. I have the copper with clear window. For my particular oddball "reference" cards I had to mill the blocks to fit and they stood up to it (until my own mistake).

Based on my experiences to date I've bought ... an AQ6 Pro + heatsink, MPS 400 flow sensor two backplates and three of the R9 290X blocks

I didn't go with the ACS backplates but I do have the terminal. It works well and adds stability to the cards but I'm not sure how well it compliments the card blocks (see my sig rig Icarus Wings)



And on that note, I ordered the *MPS 400 flow sensor. I have a few questions* if you could please:

To calibrate the flow, do I have to use the flow zero? Is the calibration saved to the flow sensor or the computer? I was planning to format on first boot and am not sure how I'd calibrate to zero with the sensor installed and also cooling my computer. I could use a different computer if the calibration is saved to the flow device.
What cables are required when operating the MPS with an Aquareo 6? I read I can cable it to the 4-pin 'High' aquabus port. Do I still need USB for power in that case?
I read the review at xtremerigs (http://www.xtremerigs.net/2013/04/30/aquacomputer-mps-400-flow-sensor/5/) - any tips or guides on calibration? I'll be using 8mm ID copper and a bit of 3/8"ID hose. Not sure if the fittings connecting to the sensor will be the 8mm or 3/8 - I imagine just the tubes adjacent to the meter matter (for calibration baseline) and they must be equal?
4 Pin Aquabus cable is same as 4 pin fan extension with same ends?
EDIT: How will the PWM-controlled devices react before the AQ6 is configured? I suppose 100% on the fans and 60% on the pump, so no worries? Hehe except for the 15 3Ks


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Archea47*
> 
> I haven't used my Aquaero 6 yet, but I have a couple of their 290X blocks
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> The blocks and backplates are beautiful. Perfectly cut and finished. I have the copper with clear window. For my particular oddball "reference" cards I had to mill the blocks to fit and they stood up to it (until my own mistake).
> 
> Based on my experiences to date I've bought ... an AQ6 Pro + heatsink, MPS 400 flow sensor two backplates and three of the R9 290X blocks
> 
> I didn't go with the ACS backplates but I do have the terminal. It works well and adds stability to the cards but I'm not sure how well it compliments the card blocks (see my sig rig Icarus Wings)
> 
> 
> 
> And on that note, I ordered the *MPS 400 flow sensor. I have a few questions* if you could please:
> 
> To calibrate the flow, do I have to use the flow zero? Is the calibration saved to the flow sensor or the computer? I was planning to format on first boot and am not sure how I'd calibrate to zero with the sensor installed and also cooling my computer. I could use a different computer if the calibration is saved to the flow device.
> What cables are required when operating the MPS with an Aquareo 6? I read I can cable it to the 4-pin 'High' aquabus port. Do I still need USB for power in that case?
> I read the review at xtremerigs (http://www.xtremerigs.net/2013/04/30/aquacomputer-mps-400-flow-sensor/5/) - any tips or guides on calibration? I'll be using 8mm ID copper and a bit of 3/8"ID hose. Not sure if the fittings connecting to the sensor will be the 8mm or 3/8 - I imagine just the tubes adjacent to the meter matter (for calibration baseline) and they must be equal?
> 4 Pin Aquabus cable is same as 4 pin fan extension with same ends?
> EDIT: How will the PWM-controlled devices react before the AQ6 is configured? I suppose 100% on the fans and 60% on the pump, so no worries? Hehe except for the 15 3Ks


Let get to each point one at time. This is how I would do it.

1) calibrate the sensor on a test loop (outside your pc) and connect it to the aquaero that is running with the Aquasuite. Save the calibration. Then latter you can just import said calibration file to the MPS 400 that is connected via USB.
2) You can connect either via Aquabus or USB. I am using USB for all 3 of mine so not sure any differences in functionality between the two...The cable is just a female-female 4 pin but I think you can use also a 3-pin - 3 pin F-F.
3) If you are using 8 mm ID I think there is a default calibration file for that. Also you can check the watercolling test thread since there is a couple 3 or 4 different calibration files there
4) same as above. F-F cable
5) Depends on the PWM device. In any case you can configure the Aquaero using the screen on it and its buttons and configure the PWM function the way you want even before connecting any device to it.

Finally, this is important. Don't put the MPS 400 just before the pump since that would mess with the readings. Preferably put it between a rad and a block or something like that.


----------



## LostParticle

@Shoggy or anyone else who can contribute :

On the latest Windows 10 TP (build 10162), clean-installed from the official MS ISO, I have created two virtual desktops. I have an Overview page of the Aquasuite starting on Windows startup and I have placed it on my Desktop 2, as Win 10 call it. Each time I reboot the Overview page pops up on my first desktop though (Desktop 1, as Windows 10 call it). It opens right in front of me. How can I make it open on my second virtual desktop ?

Thank you.


----------



## DanBr

Would anyone be able to measure from the front face of the Aquaero 6 to the mounting screw holes. I have gotten myself into another modding corner and I need that info to sort it out before I purchase
thanks
Dan


----------



## Archea47

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DanBr*
> 
> Would anyone be able to measure from the front face of the Aquaero 6 to the mounting screw holes. I have gotten myself into another modding corner and I need that info to sort it out before I purchase
> thanks
> Dan


Looks like 2.030 inches from the front of the front plate to the center of the mounting holes on my AQ6 Pro


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Archea47*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *DanBr*
> 
> Would anyone be able to measure from the front face of the Aquaero 6 to the mounting screw holes. I have gotten myself into another modding corner and I need that info to sort it out before I purchase
> thanks
> Dan
> 
> 
> 
> Looks like 2.030 inches from the front of the front plate to the center of the mounting holes on my AQ6 Pro
Click to expand...

I measure just a slight bit more, but what you need to keep in mind is that you need about 2.25" as a bare minimum, behind the face, so you have some space for connections.

D.


----------



## DanBr

thanks
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> I measure just a slight bit more, but what you need to keep in mind is that you need about 2.25" as a bare minimum, behind the face, so you have some space for connections.
> 
> D.


thanks


----------



## josetortola

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> OK, we will have a look into that.


One more update to this...
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Martin*
> 
> Regarding availability of remote sensors to 3rd party applications, I have posted the required information how to do it to developers. They will need to check for the update and implement it.


----------



## ratzofftoya

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Let get to each point one at time. This is how I would do it.
> 
> 1) calibrate the sensor on a test loop (outside your pc) and connect it to the aquaero that is running with the Aquasuite. Save the calibration. Then latter you can just import said calibration file to the MPS 400 that is connected via USB.
> 2) You can connect either via Aquabus or USB. I am using USB for all 3 of mine so not sure any differences in functionality between the two...The cable is just a female-female 4 pin but I think you can use also a 3-pin - 3 pin F-F.
> 3) If you are using 8 mm ID I think there is a default calibration file for that. Also you can check the watercolling test thread since there is a couple 3 or 4 different calibration files there
> 4) same as above. F-F cable
> 5) Depends on the PWM device. In any case you can configure the Aquaero using the screen on it and its buttons and configure the PWM function the way you want even before connecting any device to it.
> 
> Finally, this is important. Don't put the MPS 400 just before the pump since that would mess with the readings. Preferably put it between a rad and a block or something like that.


Man, the sensors have to be used outside of the build just to calibrate them? Starting to seem like more trouble than its worth...


----------



## Gabrielzm

No it is just easier that way.


----------



## ratzofftoya

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> No it is just easier that way.


What's the hard way?


----------



## electro2u

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ratzofftoya*
> 
> What's the hard way?


Doing it all while blindfolded.

Im not really sure its necessary to calibrate unless you are intent on getting an exact accurate flow rate reading. I really just use my little flow meter to give me a baseline reading to compare iver time so i can easily see if the flow is dropping.


----------



## Nornam

Nope!!!....... Certainly don't bother calibrating mine the hard way that's for sure....... I simply pick one of already calibrated tube size samples that they have that matches the size of my tube near-as-dammit & set it all from there...... I just want to know I got some flow I'm not too worried how much particularly (beyond a certain level obviously  ) Just that I got flow & can tell if it drops beyond a level e.t.c I wasn't happy about...







..

Nam.....


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ratzofftoya*
> 
> What's the hard way?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> Doing it all while blindfolded.
> 
> Im not really sure its necessary to calibrate unless you are intent on getting an exact accurate flow rate reading. I really just use my little flow meter to give me a baseline reading to compare iver time so i can easily see if the flow is dropping.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nornam*
> 
> Nope!!!....... Certainly don't bother calibrating mine the hard way that's for sure....... I simply pick one of already calibrated tube size samples that they have that matches the size of my tube near-as-dammit & set it all from there...... I just want to know I got some flow I'm not too worried how much particularly (beyond a certain level obviously  ) Just that I got flow & can tell if it drops beyond a level e.t.c I wasn't happy about...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ..
> 
> Nam.....


Excatly what Eletro and Nornam said. If you pick one of the pre-calibrated curves to the nearest fitting/tubing you will be good to go. Not dead on accurate but probably within 5% of the true flow. Extremerigs review (aka Stren) mention the accuracy with custom curve and factory pre-calibration curve if you a curious about those results.


----------



## Jakusonfire

Depending on what fittings and tube you use the default calibrations can be quite a way off.
With mine I just put the meter in the loop as normal, then added the panel flow meter on a couple of extra bits of tube to the loop for calibration. Once that was done just removed the extra tube and panel meter, topped up the loop and done.

If you want an accurate meter without having to calibrate it then the mechanical models are better.


----------



## Costas

Agree with Jakusonfire.

Other thing I noticed when testing MPS400's is that the calibration can be affected as to where the sensor is installed in the lopp eg before or after a pump etc.

So you can end up in a situation where the calibration curve can alter substantially as the flow rate changes which is what you don't want if using say two different flow rates in a loop.

If looking for accurate flow rates then ideally you want to calibrate the MPS device while it is installed in your loop as Jakusonfire states otherwise you can only rely on it for a relative measurements only.


----------



## Archea47

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Costas*
> 
> Agree with Jakusonfire.
> 
> Other thing I noticed when testing MPS400's is that the calibration can be affected as to where the sensor is installed in the lopp eg before or after a pump etc.
> 
> So you can end up in a situation where the calibration curve can alter substantially as the flow rate changes which is what you don't want if using say two different flow rates in a loop.
> 
> If looking for accurate flow rates then ideally you want to calibrate the MPS device while it is installed in your loop as Jakusonfire states otherwise you can only rely on it for a relative measurements only.


How do you calibrate it in the loop? I think you would need an already calibrated sensor for reference.

Does setting zero on the calibration make a significant difference? Can I set zero before installing, or do I need to install it in my loop and then use another computer via USB to set zero?


----------



## Costas

You require another known measuring device eg a calibrated rotameter or a mechanical sensor such as the Aqucomputer HiFlow sensor.

The mechanical sensors are tad more plug n play in that you just need to enter a value for the calibration figure rather than a complete curve. This is because, in the case of the Aquacomputer HiFlow sensor it has a very good linear response over its entire operating range whereas the MPS devices do not.

The ZERO calibration set point is important as if it is set incorrectly it will shift the entire calibration curve values up or down depending on how far the zero point is offset from the true zero value.

You generally do not have to worry too much about this as you can set up the MPS sensor so that whenever your PC is shut down (Aquaero still powered up but in standby mode ie receiving power via usb connection only), it will automatically auto zero the zero flow point as your pump(s) is currently off with PC shut down (ie. Zero flow in the loop).


----------



## DanBr

Perfomance Pc seems to list 2 pumps that it says work with the Aquaero 6 software
Which is the correct one

this one says
Important: The Aqua Computer D5 pump has an optimized PWM input and can be used with any Intel PWM standard compatible fan controller. This pump can be used with aquaero 5/6 PWM fan outputs without any heat dissipiation at the aquaero. All other currently available (as of January 2015) D5 pumps with PWM input use different hardware that will not work correctly with the PWM outputs of aquaero 5/6 devices. This pump is compatible with nearly any PWM fan controller on the market.
http://www.performance-pcs.com/aquacomputer-d5-pump-motor-with-pwm-input-and-speed-signal.html#Specifications

and this one says
As the USB version with the Aqua Computer D5 pump mechanics, this pump motor features an integrated controller and monitoring electronics with USB and aquabus interface, a configurable alarm channel as well as an external temperature sensor input.
For monitoring and configuration the software aquasuite is available for download. A 4-pin aquabus interface allows direct connection to an aquaero 5 (not included).
http://www.performance-pcs.com/aquacomputer-d5-pump-mechanics-with-usb-and-aquabus-interface.html

the second one costs $20 more

Thanks


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DanBr*
> 
> Perfomance Pc seems to list 2 pumps that it says work with the Aquaero 6 software
> Which is the correct one
> 
> this one says
> Important: The Aqua Computer D5 pump has an optimized PWM input and can be used with any Intel PWM standard compatible fan controller. This pump can be used with aquaero 5/6 PWM fan outputs without any heat dissipiation at the aquaero. All other currently available (as of January 2015) D5 pumps with PWM input use different hardware that will not work correctly with the PWM outputs of aquaero 5/6 devices. This pump is compatible with nearly any PWM fan controller on the market.
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/aquacomputer-d5-pump-motor-with-pwm-input-and-speed-signal.html#Specifications
> 
> and this one says
> As the USB version with the Aqua Computer D5 pump mechanics, this pump motor features an integrated controller and monitoring electronics with USB and aquabus interface, a configurable alarm channel as well as an external temperature sensor input.
> For monitoring and configuration the software aquasuite is available for download. A 4-pin aquabus interface allows direct connection to an aquaero 5 (not included).
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/aquacomputer-d5-pump-mechanics-with-usb-and-aquabus-interface.html
> 
> the second one costs $20 more
> 
> Thanks


The first one is a newer offering, where they use an actual PWM D5 and essentially do the Diva mod internally in the pump.

It gives you a nice wide range of speed control, with excellent low speed startup capabilities, although with an Aquaero, you have an option to set a few seconds of higher than run speed startup boost.

The second listing is their longer running offering that pre-dates the introduction of the PWM D5.

It is essentially a Vario, (variable speed) model with the little red speed adjusting screw replaced by a software controlled digital potentiometer. That pump can be USB controlled or run off the aquabus, as opposed to the PWM version, which takes one of the four channels.

Darlene


----------



## DanBr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> The first one is a newer offering, where they use an actual PWM D5 and essentially do the Diva mod internally in the pump.
> 
> It gives you a nice wide range of speed control, with excellent low speed startup capabilities, although with an Aquaero, you have an option to set a few seconds of higher than run speed startup boost.
> 
> The second listing is their longer running offering that pre-dates the introduction of the PWM D5.
> 
> It is essentially a Vario, (variable speed) model with the little red speed adjusting screw replaced by a software controlled digital potentiometer. That pump can be USB controlled or run off the aquabus, as opposed to the PWM version, which takes one of the four channels.
> 
> Darlene


questions answered
I would have bought the wrong pump
Thanks


----------



## SynchroSCP

Having an interesting issue with my PC since the Aquaero was installed in that any time I shut it down it starts back up again right away. The only way to get it to shut down is to hold the power button for a few seconds. It didn't do this before and the only thing that has changed is the Aquaero was installed and connected via USB. Is this an issue or is there a setting somewhere I missed? Thx!


----------



## Shoggy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SynchroSCP*
> 
> Having an interesting issue with my PC since the Aquaero was installed in that any time I shut it down it starts back up again right away.


Could have something to do with functions like wake-up on keyboard or mouse in the BIOS. I would disable them for a test since it is pretty much the only way how the aquaero might be able to start the PC. Keep in mind the aquaero registers as keyboard and mouse to the system.

Or if you are using the relay for the emergency shutdown it could be a configuration problem.


----------



## catbuster

Can any1 give me quick answer if *aquaero 5 LT* can control pwm fans? i want to control 3 pwm fans and 1 ddc pwm pump. thank you


----------



## bkvamme

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *catbuster*
> 
> Can any1 give me quick answer if *aquaero 5 LT* can control pwm fans? i want to control 3 pwm fans and 1 ddc pwm pump. thank you


Yes, it can. But you only have one PWM output, so you would have to have the PWM fans and the PWM pump operating at the same speeds.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bkvamme*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *catbuster*
> 
> Can any1 give me quick answer if *aquaero 5 LT* can control pwm fans? i want to control 3 pwm fans and 1 ddc pwm pump. thank you
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yes, it can. But you only have one PWM output, so you would have to have the PWM fans and the PWM pump operating at the same speeds.
Click to expand...

The same pwm % not speeds


----------



## SynchroSCP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> Could have something to do with functions like wake-up on keyboard or mouse in the BIOS. I would disable them for a test since it is pretty much the only way how the aquaero might be able to start the PC. Keep in mind the aquaero registers as keyboard and mouse to the system.
> 
> Or if you are using the relay for the emergency shutdown it could be a configuration problem.


No relay in my setup, has something to do with the USB connection as you said. Unplugged the usb cable to the Aquaero and it shuts down normally, there is a setting to remove USB power when off in the bios of my Asus Z97 mobo, will try that later and see if removing power from the USB when the pc is off fixes it. Not a big deal as I don't rely on the usb connections for anything when the PC is off.


----------



## catbuster

Thanks for responce ! sadly i need 2 pwm channels individualy


----------



## gdubc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *catbuster*
> 
> Thanks for responce ! sadly i need 2 pwm channels individualy


Use the CPU header on your mobo for the pump and use the aquaero lt for the fans. The pump wont need adjusted much once you find the optimal flow rate for your system.


----------



## TheJackal83

Hi everybody,

I have a question I like to ask.
I'm going to buy a AC6 XT and I'mwondering if it is possible to hook up a Collant flow meter ins fm18d

Link http://koolance.com/ins-fm18d-coolant-flow-meter-stainless-steel-with-display

and cut and link the wires to the AC, so that I can see the flowrate as well.
greetz from Holland


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheJackal83*
> 
> Hi everybody,
> 
> I have a question I like to ask.
> I'm going to buy a AC6 XT and I'mwondering if it is possible to hook up a Collant flow meter ins fm18d
> 
> Link http://koolance.com/ins-fm18d-coolant-flow-meter-stainless-steel-with-display
> 
> and cut and link the wires to the AC, so that I can see the flowrate as well.
> greetz from Holland


In a word, . . . . . . . . . No.

That one is a modular unit that works as a stand alone.

If you get one of the other Koolance setups with the flow meter and one of the other frequency converters / displays, they have an additional pulse output that can go to a fan channel and reads out in ml/min so it sort of looks like you're seeing an rpm reading, except it's flow rate.

~3785 ml/min is equivalent to 1 GPM.

Darlene


----------



## thekasafist

Guys help please!!! I ordered the passive heatsink but the diagram for the layout of the Aquaero the instructions show doesn't look anything like the AQ6XT Blue LED I got. I had asked before if perhaps someone could confirm if the passive heatsink I listed Model: AQ-53164 Link: http://www.performance-pcs.com/aquacomputer-passive-heatsink-for-aquaero-6-black.html Fits the AQ6 XT Blue LED Model: AQ-53206 Link: http://www.performance-pcs.com/fan-control/aquacomputer-aquaero-6-xt-blue-usb-fan-controller-graphic-lcd-touch-control-ir-remote-control.html

If they really are compatible could someone possibly have a picture of where to place the thermal padding because it doesn't even remotely match up to what I see. Also I can seem to remove the silver faceplate originally mounted it's like kind of glued on there to the PCB so I mounted the black face plate right over the silver face plate. O_O Let me know if this is correct since removing the silver face plate might actually be more work than I was originally in for LOL?!

Any help at all would be appreciated and I will also try to include images of what I am experiencing and why I have the confusion.

IMG_1237.JPG 2533k .JPG file


IMG_1238.JPG 1320k .JPG file


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thekasafist*
> 
> Guys help please!!! I ordered the passive heatsink but the diagram for the layout of the Aquaero the instructions show doesn't look anything like the AQ6XT Blue LED I got. I had asked before if perhaps someone could confirm if the passive heatsink I listed Model: AQ-53164 Link: http://www.performance-pcs.com/aquacomputer-passive-heatsink-for-aquaero-6-black.html Fits the AQ6 XT Blue LED Model: AQ-53206 Link: http://www.performance-pcs.com/fan-control/aquacomputer-aquaero-6-xt-blue-usb-fan-controller-graphic-lcd-touch-control-ir-remote-control.html
> 
> If they really are compatible could someone possibly have a picture of where to place the thermal padding because it doesn't even remotely match up to what I see. Also I can seem to remove the silver faceplate originally mounted it's like kind of glued on there to the PCB so I mounted the black face plate right over the silver face plate. O_O Let me know if this is correct since removing the silver face plate might actually be more work than I was originally in for LOL?!
> 
> Any help at all would be appreciated and I will also try to include images of what I am experiencing and why I have the confusion.
> 
> IMG_1237.JPG 2533k .JPG file
> 
> 
> IMG_1238.JPG 1320k .JPG file


It is the same thing mate so far as I can tell. Here. On your own picture:



Yes the face plate is glued to the front. It comes off easily with very thin precision blade help.


----------



## Kokin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thekasafist*
> 
> Guys help please!!! I ordered the passive heatsink but the diagram for the layout of the Aquaero the instructions show doesn't look anything like the AQ6XT Blue LED I got. I had asked before if perhaps someone could confirm if the passive heatsink I listed Model: AQ-53164 Link: http://www.performance-pcs.com/aquacomputer-passive-heatsink-for-aquaero-6-black.html Fits the AQ6 XT Blue LED Model: AQ-53206 Link: http://www.performance-pcs.com/fan-control/aquacomputer-aquaero-6-xt-blue-usb-fan-controller-graphic-lcd-touch-control-ir-remote-control.html
> 
> If they really are compatible could someone possibly have a picture of where to place the thermal padding because it doesn't even remotely match up to what I see. Also I can seem to remove the silver faceplate originally mounted it's like kind of glued on there to the PCB so I mounted the black face plate right over the silver face plate. O_O Let me know if this is correct since removing the silver face plate might actually be more work than I was originally in for LOL?!
> 
> Any help at all would be appreciated and I will also try to include images of what I am experiencing and why I have the confusion.
> 
> IMG_1237.JPG 2533k .JPG file
> 
> 
> IMG_1238.JPG 1320k .JPG file


I hope my awesome paint skills aren't too good for you to understand.









Here are the places you have to add the pads to:


----------



## thekasafist

Ok guys one more time I promise but I just like being 100%. I got the two pics and forgot to ask whether the sticker should be removed before placing the passive heat sink or if it should be left on?
Sorry for the noob with 50 questions but it's my first time with all this and the manual is pretty lousy for me I am very detailed orientated and seriously like to know every little dumb thing.
Hope I'm not annoying anyone too much, also if the sticker is to be removed should I also put a piece of thermal pad on the other end as well?

IMG_1239.JPG 2039k .JPG file


IMG_1240.JPG 1315k .JPG file


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thekasafist*
> 
> Ok guys one more time I promise but I just like being 100%. I got the two pics and forgot to ask whether the sticker should be removed before placing the passive heat sink or if it should be left on?
> Sorry for the noob with 50 questions but it's my first time with all this and the manual is pretty lousy for me I am very detailed orientated and seriously like to know every little dumb thing.
> Hope I'm not annoying anyone too much, also if the sticker is to be removed should I also put a piece of thermal pad on the other end as well?
> 
> IMG_1239.JPG 2039k .JPG file
> 
> 
> IMG_1240.JPG 1315k .JPG file


You can leave as it is or remove the sticker. Do as you please since there is nothing there to be cooled. Personally I remove mine since the heat sink already have all the labels there but it is really up to you.


----------



## TheJackal83

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> In a word, . . . . . . . . . No.
> 
> That one is a modular unit that works as a stand alone.
> 
> If you get one of the other Koolance setups with the flow meter and one of the other frequency converters / displays, they have an additional pulse output that can go to a fan channel and reads out in ml/min so it sort of looks like you're seeing an rpm reading, except it's flow rate.
> 
> ~3785 ml/min is equivalent to 1 GPM.
> 
> Darlene


Thanks for the reply from the legendary IT Diva Darlene.








( I'm new around here, still got 200 pages to read about the Aquaero. But I know already that your legendary )


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheJackal83*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> In a word, . . . . . . . . . No.
> 
> That one is a modular unit that works as a stand alone.
> 
> If you get one of the other Koolance setups with the flow meter and one of the other frequency converters / displays, they have an additional pulse output that can go to a fan channel and reads out in ml/min so it sort of looks like you're seeing an rpm reading, except it's flow rate.
> 
> ~3785 ml/min is equivalent to 1 GPM.
> 
> Darlene
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for the reply from the legendary IT Diva Darlene.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ( I'm new around here, still got 200 pages to read about the Aquaero. But I know already that you're legendary )
Click to expand...

Thanks for the compliment, though it's hardly deserved . . .

There's a few folks on the forum here that I look at as being as close to legendary as one may get, but I'm not even on my longest list.

My background and education are electronics and engineering, so I try to add my expertise in areas in which I have it.

Some have suggested that I'm aesthetically challenged, but that I produce the most incredibly engineered ugly, they've ever seen. . . . .









Darlene


----------



## TheJackal83

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Thanks for the compliment, though it's hardly deserved . . .
> 
> There's a few folks on the forum here that I look at as being as close to legendary as one may get, but I'm not even on my longest list.
> 
> My background and education are electronics and engineering, so I try to add my expertise in areas in which I have it.
> 
> Some have suggested that I'm aesthetically challenged, but that I produce the most incredibly engineered ugly, they've ever seen. . . . .
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Darlene


Thanks for helping the one's out who are in need of your expertise.
And I know there are more legendary out here on the forum.
But you're special because you're a woman who know's her stuf.

But enough chitt chatting.
Question nr 2.

Is it possible to connect a D5 pump on two yes 2 PSU ??
( I'm building a special 900D with a i7 3930K and a i7 5960X and I don't want to use a external PSU for my pumps
If one machine boots up on it's own ,...... without the exernal power adapter switched on, I'm screwed. )


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheJackal83*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Thanks for the compliment, though it's hardly deserved . . .
> 
> There's a few folks on the forum here that I look at as being as close to legendary as one may get, but I'm not even on my longest list.
> 
> My background and education are electronics and engineering, so I try to add my expertise in areas in which I have it.
> 
> Some have suggested that I'm aesthetically challenged, but that I produce the most incredibly engineered ugly, they've ever seen. . . . .
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Darlene
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for helping the one's out who are in need of your expertise.
> And I know there are more legendary out here on the forum.
> But you're special because you're a woman who know's her stuf.
> 
> But enough chitt chatting.
> Question nr 2.
> 
> Is it possible to connect a D5 pump on two yes 2 PSU ??
> ( I'm building a special 900D with a i7 3930K and a i7 5960X and I don't want to use a external PSU for my pumps
> If one machine boots up on it's own ,...... without the exernal power adapter switched on, I'm screwed. )
Click to expand...

To be sure I understand the question accurately, . . . . . .

I'm assuming that you want to run the D5 from 24V, and want to use your dual PSU setup in a 900D build to do it.

Two things . . . . . . . .

The only D5 that shows any benefit from running at 24V instead of 12V is the D5 Strong.

At 24V it runs at ~6100 rpm, . .It is a powerhouse.

It's also loud and doesn't speed control particularly well at lower ranges, (below about half speed).

All the rest of the D5's don't give you anything more above 12V, than they give at 12V.

I'd suggest that you use a dual PWM D5 setup. . . . . Plenty of power, redundancy, and can be easily set at whatever you find is the sweet-spot for flowrate versus noise.

If you just have to have a D5 Strong, then use one of these 12V to 24V step-up controllers, . . . (1 per pump):

http://koolance.com/pump-or-fan-speed-controller-ctr-spd1224m

Darlene


----------



## Costas

Sounds like
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> To be sure I understand the question accurately, . . . . . .
> 
> I'm assuming that you want to run the D5 from 24V, and want to use your dual PSU setup in a 900D build to do it.


Sounds like they may be wanting to run the one pump for both systems?

In that case they could wire up the D5 to the two power supplies using two series diodes [one in each positive lead] connected to each of the 12v rails from each supply.

That way no matter which supply is on the D5 will always run.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Costas*
> 
> Sounds like
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> To be sure I understand the question accurately, . . . . . .
> 
> I'm assuming that you want to run the D5 from 24V, and want to use your dual PSU setup in a 900D build to do it.
> 
> 
> 
> *Sounds like they may be wanting to run the one pump for both systems?
> *
> In that case they could wire up the D5 to the two power supplies using two series diodes [one in each positive lead] connected to each of the 12v rails from each supply.
> 
> That way no matter which supply is on the D5 will always run.
Click to expand...

After reading your post, it does indeed seem like that's the question.

2 Systems in a 900D, just didn't even register . . . Not s too sure you could even get both in, much less adequately cool them . . .

And then 2 loops on the same pump ????

But if that's his plan, then yes, you're right about just using a diode from the 12V line of each PSU to the pump +12V connection.

Maybe the poster will give some more details.

Darlene


----------



## SynchroSCP

Diva your D5 pwm mod works fantastically, saved me from having to buy another pump...much appreciated!


----------



## TheJackal83

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Costas*
> 
> Sounds like
> Sounds like they may be wanting to run the one pump for both systems?
> 
> In that case they could wire up the D5 to the two power supplies using two series diodes [one in each positive lead] connected to each of the 12v rails from each supply.
> 
> That way no matter which supply is on the D5 will always run.


That is correct!
I'm going to mod the 900D and extend it with 20cm, pictures will be up real soon.








And yes when I'm using computer 1 I want pump A to be active.
When I use computer 2 I want pump A to be active.
When I'm rendering and moddeling ( 3 D work ) I want computer 1 & 2 to be on and Pump A to be active.
There will be a pump B also. One pump for cooling the cpu's and one pump for the GPU's.

I'm really Really sorry but I'm an electo noob.
Can you please explain what you mean by "using two series diodes"

I have 2 D5 vario PWM, thanks for the pictures of the Diva Mod I will be able to mod it, I'm handy but don't have the knowledge.

Thanks.


----------



## Costas

You will need to connect two diodes (one from each power supply's 12v rail) to the D5 as shown.

Note that the diodes are polarity sensitive and there is a stripe on the body of the diodes which corresponds to the cathode or 'more' negative connection. ie the stripe of each diode should connect to the D5 as shown below.

The other end of each diode (anode - non stripe end) should connect to each supply (+12v rail).

Also note that you will need to common the grounds (negative rails) of both power supplies together so that they share a common ground path.










A D5 draws (max) just under 2 Amps @ 12v so you will need to select diodes which are rated at above this figure. Common 3A diodes are as follows - 1N54001, 1N54002, 1N54003, 1N54004 etc. These are all 3A diodes and only vary in the max voltage they can handle eg: 1N54001 = 100V max, 1N54002 = 200V max etc etc so any of those will be adequate.

Also my quick drawing above does not show the PWM connection - I gather you would also like to run an Aquaero off both supplies?

**PS: I just realised that my component labeling may cause confusion to some ie specifically the D1, D2 & D5 nomenclature. Note D1 & D2 correspond to the diodes and 'D5" to the familiar D5 pump of course...


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheJackal83*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Costas*
> 
> Sounds like
> Sounds like they may be wanting to run the one pump for both systems?
> 
> In that case they could wire up the D5 to the two power supplies using two series diodes [one in each positive lead] connected to each of the 12v rails from each supply.
> 
> That way no matter which supply is on the D5 will always run.
> 
> 
> 
> That is correct!
> I'm going to mod the 900D and extend it with 20cm, pictures will be up real soon.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And yes when I'm using computer 1 I want pump A to be active.
> When I use computer 2 I want pump A to be active.
> When I'm rendering and moddeling ( 3 D work ) I want computer 1 & 2 to be on and Pump A to be active.
> There will be a pump B also. One pump for cooling the cpu's and one pump for the GPU's.
> 
> I'm really Really sorry but I'm an electo noob.
> Can you please explain what you mean by "using two series diodes"
> 
> *I have 2 D5 vario PWM,* thanks for the pictures of the Diva Mod I will be able to mod it, I'm handy but don't have the knowledge.
> 
> Thanks.
Click to expand...

Please clarify a bit . . . .

The D5 Vario is the one with the little red speed adjuster on the bottom and a single blue wire to a 3 fan connector.

The PWM version has no red adjuster screw, and a blue and a green wire to a 4 pin fan connector.

And as Costas has speculated, as well as running the pumps from either PSU, You'll also need the rad fans to run as well, so you'll need a similar setup on both the 5V and 12V lines to the Aquaero.

I'd suggest using 6Amp diodes because of the Inrush current when the motor(s) starts. . . . and depending on how many of what fans, the Aquaero's draw on the 12V line may be well more than that.

This is really starting to look like a situation where the best scenario involves a small dedicated PSU for the pump(s) and Aquaero/fans that turns on via relay with a diode to each of the main system PSU's.

Using the diodes will reduce the 12V supply by nominally 0.7V, so it's a "quick and dirty" way to get what you need, but not a very optimal way.

Darlene


----------



## TheJackal83

Sorry my mistake.
I have mistook the D5 with vario and a cable to the fan header for a PWM version.
Now I'm thinking ,..... is it even possible to hook it up on the Aquaero 6 withe the mod.

I also thought it was the best way to hook the pump and fans on a 90 watt PSU adapter ( like a laptop adapter with molex connection )
but dindn't know where to go from there. Because I like to hook all the 15 fans and 2 pumps on a dedicated PSU and hook Aquaero on the main computer.
I dont need no readouts from the other computer.

So 2 computers 1 Aquaero 2 pumps and 15 fans.

I hoop you can understand what I'm trying to say and accomplish.


----------



## MrStrat007

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheJackal83*
> 
> Sorry my mistake.
> I have mistook the D5 with vario and a cable to the fan header for a PWM version.
> Now I'm thinking ,..... is it even possible to hook it up on the Aquaero 6 withe the mod.
> 
> I also thought it was the best way to hook the pump and fans on a 90 watt PSU adapter ( like a laptop adapter with molex connection )
> but dindn't know where to go from there. Because I like to hook all the 15 fans and 2 pumps on a dedicated PSU and hook Aquaero on the main computer.
> I dont need no readouts from the other computer.
> 
> So 2 computers 1 Aquaero 2 pumps and 15 fans.
> 
> I hoop you can understand what I'm trying to say and accomplish.


Why not save yourself a lot of trouble and just have one pump for computer A (cpu and gpu) and one pump for computer B (cpu and gpu) and wire them both to the Aquaero (as that seems to be your plan currently anyway, just with different tubing routing)???

Then all you would need would be a relay trigger or some such when the computer not connected to aquaero turns on to start the other loop? The way you mention above seems noisy and unnecessary for what you are trying to achieve, unless I'm missing something here.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheJackal83*
> 
> Sorry my mistake.
> I have mistook the D5 with vario and a cable to the fan header for a PWM version.
> Now I'm thinking ,..... is it even possible to hook it up on the Aquaero 6 withe the mod.
> 
> I also thought it was the best way to hook the pump and fans on a 90 watt PSU adapter ( like a laptop adapter with molex connection )
> but dindn't know where to go from there. Because I like to hook all the 15 fans and 2 pumps on a dedicated PSU and hook Aquaero on the main computer.
> I dont need no readouts from the other computer.
> 
> So 2 computers 1 Aquaero 2 pumps and 15 fans.
> 
> I hoop you can understand what I'm trying to say and accomplish.


Are the fans all PWM, and if so, are you using a splitter for them that gets the 12V power from a PSU, or does the control and power have to come from the Aquaero?

Either way, it's sounding more and more like the best way to accomplish what you want is to make the fans and pump(s) a separate but complete, sub-system, that powers up when either of the main system PSUs come on.

The Aquaero needs 5V as well as 12V, so to use a dedicated power source for the pumps, fans, and Aquaero, it will need to source both 5V and 12V.

There are inexpensive supplies that will do that, but you'll have to add a relay to their AC supply that pulls in when either of the other system PSUs come on.

This one would be my choice:

https://www.jameco.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?storeId=10001&productId=323741&CID=DCAT&catalogId=10001&langId=-1&ddkey=https:CookieLogon

Darlene


----------



## TheJackal83

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Are the fans all PWM, and if so, are you using a splitter for them that gets the 12V power from a PSU, or does the control and power have to come from the Aquaero?
> 
> Either way, it's sounding more and more like the best way to accomplish what you want is to make the fans and pump(s) a separate but complete, sub-system, that powers up when either of the main system PSUs come on.
> 
> The Aquaero needs 5V as well as 12V, so to use a dedicated power source for the pumps, fans, and Aquaero, it will need to source both 5V and 12V.
> 
> There are inexpensive supplies that will do that, but you'll have to add a relay to their AC supply that pulls in when either of the other system PSUs come on.
> 
> This one would be my choice:
> 
> https://www.jameco.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?storeId=10001&productId=323741&CID=DCAT&catalogId=10001&langId=-1&ddkey=https:CookieLogon
> 
> Darlene


The system is not assembled yet.
And it seems that the powersupplie you suggested is good enough for my needs, thanks.
The fans I'm going to use are the EK Vardar's non PWM and will be powerd by the PSU not the Aquaero.
But is it possible to mod the D5 vario with fan header? Or do I need the poweradjust for those?

I'm sorry if I'm being annoying with all my quesions, I really appreciate the answers.









Just trying to build a kickass system.


----------



## fast_fate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheJackal83*
> 
> Sorry my mistake.
> I have mistook the D5 with vario and a cable to the fan header for a PWM version.
> Now I'm thinking ,..... is it even possible to hook it up on the Aquaero 6 withe the mod.
> 
> I also thought it was the best way to hook the pump and fans on a 90 watt PSU adapter ( like a laptop adapter with molex connection )
> but dindn't know where to go from there. Because I like to hook all the 15 fans and 2 pumps on a dedicated PSU and hook Aquaero on the main computer.
> I dont need no readouts from the other computer.
> 
> So 2 computers 1 Aquaero 2 pumps and 15 fans.
> 
> I hoop you can understand what I'm trying to say and accomplish.


When the dual PSU questions come up I like to throw the relay option out there for consideration also.

I got this streamlined quite a bit more afterwards - might be of interest to you








Post #182 is where I started piecing it together (but there is some discussion tossing ideas about before that.)


----------



## TheJackal83

Wouw thats a lot to chew on, do you got any schematics?
So that I can figure it out on my own.

Thanks for your input








much appreciated!!


----------



## fast_fate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheJackal83*
> 
> Wouw thats a lot to chew on, do you got any schematics?
> So that I can figure it out on my own.
> 
> Thanks for your input
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> much appreciated!!


Here - *BUT relay should Be SPDT*

Snip
_"When the primary psu is off the relay completes the 1st of the secondary PSU's PS-on circuit and so is powered up - (powering everything connected to it)
A switch is added into that 1st secondary PSU PS_on circuit to be able to turn the secondary PSU on and off.

When the primary PSU is powered on it supplies power to the relay coil and the relay contact opens.
So now the 1st secondary PSU PS_on circuit with the switch is broken.
BUT
The now open relay completes a 2nd PS_on circuit for the secondary PSU."._
This allows the secondary to either power up, or stay running if it was running already. (depending on switch position)

So no matter what - Secondary PSU will always turn on when primary PSU is activated (system turned on) even if Secondary PSU switch is in the off position.



Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## TheJackal83

Thanks,








I will spit through the post and see if I can figure it out.


----------



## Artah

I'm not 100% sure this is what did it but it seems like my aquacomputer flow meter thinks I'm only pushing 18 liters/hour after I upgraded the firmware for my AC6 XT. Any one else experience this?

I'm sure it's not a flow problem because the liquid was flowing normally when I drained/refilled it the other day. I can see it on my reservoir.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Artah*
> 
> I'm not 100% sure this is what did it but it seems like my aquacomputer flow meter thinks I'm only pushing 18 liters/hour after I upgraded the firmware for my AC6 XT. Any one else experience this?
> 
> I'm sure it's not a flow problem because the liquid was flowing normally when I drained/refilled it the other day. I can see it on my reservoir.


what flow meter do you have? Is it a mps 400? If so is a problem in the configuration. It happen to me before and to fast_fate too. Let's see if I found the posts over the testing thread.


----------



## Artah

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> what flow meter do you have? Is it a mps 400? If so is a problem in the configuration. It happen to me before and to fast_fate too. Let's see if I found the posts over the testing thread.


I have this one.

http://www.overclock.net/users/444883/reviews


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Artah*
> 
> I have this one.
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/users/444883/reviews


Ok. Pretty sure is related to the units used in the aquasuite config page. Try to change it to gpm and re-start the software. Also check the high flow meter configuration page and see if there is any option there for the flow units;


----------



## sinnedone

Quick question for you aquaero experts out there.

Using an Aquaero 5 LT and MPS 400 flow meter, connecting only the aquabus cable from the MPS 400 to the aquabus high input on the 5LT give you flow and temp readings? OR must I also connect the alarm output from the MPS 400 to the "Flow" input of the 5LT along with the temp sensor lead of the MPS 400 to the "sensors" input on the 5 LT?

Thanks all, trying to figure out my wiring.

OH also for the MPS 400 flow meter, is it bad to have a 90 degree fitting on one side? Must it have straight fittings leading into each side? If so could I get away with a straight line in feeding the MPS 400 and the outlet going into a rad?


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sinnedone*
> 
> Quick question for you aquaero experts out there.
> 
> Using an Aquaero 5 LT and MPS 400 flow meter, connecting only the aquabus cable from the MPS 400 to the aquabus high input on the 5LT give you flow and temp readings? OR must I also connect the alarm output from the MPS 400 to the "Flow" input of the 5LT along with the temp sensor lead of the MPS 400 to the "sensors" input on the 5 LT?
> 
> Thanks all, trying to figure out my wiring.
> 
> OH also for the MPS 400 flow meter, is it bad to have a 90 degree fitting on one side? Must it have straight fittings leading into each side? If so could I get away with a straight line in feeding the MPS 400 and the outlet going into a rad?


The aquabus should be enough for the MPS 400. You should have both flow and temp readings although I would not trust the temps from the MPS400. You are better off putting a external temp sensor and taping it to the radiator tank or a plug type temp sensor i you have (or a pass through temp sensor).

I would not recommend putting the 90 degrees on one side. The MPS reads the differential pressure form in to out on the sensor and putting a 90 degrees there can potentially mess that up although I might be wrong about it. By the same token avoid putting the mps 400 before the pump. The second option you describe should work just fine.


----------



## Daggi

Does anyone know how the quality of the MPS 400 flow meter is? I'm thinking of buying a another one, but not sure if I should bother. I do have one but it stopped working after a few months or so. Maybe the high flow USB sensor or the regular high flow sensor is a better choice?


----------



## InfoSeeker

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sinnedone*
> 
> Quick question for you aquaero experts out there.
> 
> Using an Aquaero 5 LT and MPS 400 flow meter, connecting only the aquabus cable from the MPS 400 to the aquabus high input on the 5LT give you flow and temp readings? OR must I also connect the alarm output from the MPS 400 to the "Flow" input of the 5LT along with the temp sensor lead of the MPS 400 to the "sensors" input on the 5 LT?
> 
> Thanks all, trying to figure out my wiring.
> 
> OH also for the MPS 400 flow meter, is it bad to have a 90 degree fitting on one side? Must it have straight fittings leading into each side? If so could I get away with a straight line in feeding the MPS 400 and the outlet going into a rad?


Connecting MPS 400:
You need a USB connection to configure (assign address if multiple MPS are used) & calibrate - the USB connection can be removed after that.
Use the 4 pin aquabus wire to connect to the aquaero high aquabus. The 4th pin provides power so the MPS 400 can be zero calibrated when your system is off.
The Alarm port is an output that can be configured to send an alarm to the mobo, it does not connect to the aquaero.
As stated earlier, the temp port is for inputting an external temp sensor.

Integrating the MPS 400 into your loop:
Yes, it is very bad to place angular fittings onto the MPS 400. The quote below is a snippet from the product description;
Quote:


> Installation note:
> For an accurate measurement we recommend to use a straight piece of tubing with a min. length of 5 cm before and after the sensor. The sensor itself should not be equipped with angled fittings.


I suggest reading the MPS manual which has much useful information.


----------



## sinnedone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> The aquabus should be enough for the MPS 400. You should have both flow and temp readings although I would not trust the temps from the MPS400. You are better off putting a external temp sensor and taping it to the radiator tank or a plug type temp sensor i you have (or a pass through temp sensor).
> 
> I would not recommend putting the 90 degrees on one side. The MPS reads the differential pressure form in to out on the sensor and putting a 90 degrees there can potentially mess that up although I might be wrong about it. By the same token avoid putting the mps 400 before the pump. The second option you describe should work just fine.


Thank you for the response.









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *InfoSeeker*
> 
> Connecting MPS 400:
> You need a USB connection to configure (assign address if multiple MPS are used) & calibrate - the USB connection can be removed after that.
> Use the 4 pin aquabus wire to connect to the aquaero high aquabus. The 4th pin provides power so the MPS 400 can be zero calibrated when your system is off.
> The Alarm port is an output that can be configured to send an alarm to the mobo, it does not connect to the aquaero.
> As stated earlier, the temp port is for inputting an external temp sensor.
> 
> Integrating the MPS 400 into your loop:
> Yes, it is very bad to place angular fittings onto the MPS 400. The quote below is a snippet from the product description;
> I suggest reading the MPS manual which has much useful information.


Thank you, especially for that quote from the product page which I did not see in the MPS 400 manual. That certainly helps me figure out its positioning.









I was hoping that the aquabus cable was enough to do all the communication needed and not use other cables like usb/temp/alarm.( that's why I asked was to make sure) Once it is mounted and in place there will be very little room to try and remove any cables since I am working in a very confined space.

I read through the manual before I asked the questions. The manual itself is not written very well and is anything but concise.

Thank you both for the responses and if there any other tips you can think of please post.


----------



## Archea47

Glad to see the MPS400 info here for myself as well

Quick Q: Can I do the initial USB ID-assignment on a different computer, and then install it into the new build (different computer, fresh OS) with only the Aquabus cable?

I'm in a similar boat as sinnedone - the MPS is going to be in my S8's pedestal between a couple rads and it won't be very easy to disconnect the USB cable once the system is online


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Archea47*
> 
> Glad to see the MPS400 info here for myself as well
> 
> Quick Q: Can I do the initial USB ID-assignment on a different computer, and then install it into the new build (different computer, fresh OS) with only the Aquabus cable?
> 
> I'm in a similar boat as sinnedone - the MPS is going to be in my S8's pedestal between a couple rads and it won't be very easy to disconnect the USB cable once the system is online


Yes. After you save to the unit the new bus address it will be within the unit so if you mix different mps devices in the s8 up to 4 of it can have different bus addresses and connected to the high port.


----------



## InfoSeeker

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Archea47*
> 
> Glad to see the MPS400 info here for myself as well
> 
> Quick Q: Can I do the initial USB ID-assignment on a different computer, and then install it into the new build (different computer, fresh OS) with only the Aquabus cable?
> 
> I'm in a similar boat as sinnedone - the MPS is going to be in my S8's pedestal between a couple rads and it won't be very easy to disconnect the USB cable once the system is online


Yes, I believe the configuration and calibration settings are written to a flash type of memory and can be set prior to mounting in the loop.
But I have not tested that procedure.


----------



## Costas

^^^

Yes that is correct and have tested it myself.

The MPS sensor will store its calibration curve on the device itself.


----------



## DanBr

I am ordering the Aquaero 6 today (total rookie with this device)

I am also ordering the D5 pump that has the PWM plug to go to the A6
http://www.performance-pcs.com/aquacomputer-d5-pump-mechanics-with-usb-and-aquabus-interface.html

They say connecting cord not included.
Is it a standard 4pin fan cord from the plug on the pump to the A6 or is it a specific Aqua Computer part?

I will have PWM fans (low wattage) EK Vardar F3 120mm fans.

With the correct fan hub/splitter, like this be correct?
http://www.performance-pcs.com/modmytoys-4-pin-pwm-power-distribution-pcb-4-way-block.html#Features

Will the A6 power all the fans with standard 4 pin fan cable or do they need to be powered from the MB?
I will probably have 4 each on 2 channels PWM and then some 3pin fans on another channel.

Thanks,
Dan


----------



## fast_fate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DanBr*
> 
> I am ordering the Aquaero 6 today (total rookie with this device)
> 
> I am also ordering the D5 pump that has the PWM plug to go to the A6
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/aquacomputer-d5-pump-mechanics-with-usb-and-aquabus-interface.html
> 
> They say connecting cord not included.
> Is it a standard 4pin fan cord from the plug on the pump to the A6 or is it a specific Aqua Computer part?
> 
> I will have PWM fans (low wattage) EK Vardar F3 120mm fans.
> 
> With the correct fan hub/splitter, like this be correct?
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/modmytoys-4-pin-pwm-power-distribution-pcb-4-way-block.html#Features
> 
> Will the A6 power all the fans with standard 4 pin fan cable or do they need to be powered from the MB?
> I will probably have 4 each on 2 channels PWM and then some 3pin fans on another channel.
> 
> Thanks,
> Dan


The AC PWM pump cables are both (power input from PSU & the PWM/Tach to/from Aquaero) around 47 cm long...
so this may be long enough for you without needing extensions.
If the PWM/RPM cable is not long enough for your set-up, then yes any 4pin male to female fan extension cable can be used,

That particular splitter you linked has Power/PWM/RPM on the input/output pins, so powering straight from the Aquaero with a female/female 4 pin PWM cable will be fine.
Just check for 4 fans don't exceed the 2.5 amp per channel limit on the Aqauero and you're good to go.
You will most likely need to cut pins or traces on the splitter you linked on all but one of the RPM signals.
This is a better option in my opinion - but current PPCS is out of stock


----------



## InfoSeeker

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DanBr*
> 
> I am ordering the Aquaero 6 today (total rookie with this device)
> 
> I am also ordering the D5 pump that has the PWM plug to go to the A6
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/aquacomputer-d5-pump-mechanics-with-usb-and-aquabus-interface.html
> 
> They say connecting cord not included.
> Is it a standard 4pin fan cord from the plug on the pump to the A6 or is it a specific Aqua Computer part?
> 
> I will have PWM fans (low wattage) EK Vardar F3 120mm fans.
> 
> With the correct fan hub/splitter, like this be correct?
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/modmytoys-4-pin-pwm-power-distribution-pcb-4-way-block.html#Features
> 
> Will the A6 power all the fans with standard 4 pin fan cable or do they need to be powered from the MB?
> I will probably have 4 each on 2 channels PWM and then some 3pin fans on another channel.
> 
> Thanks,
> Dan


The pump you linked is NOT a PWM pump, it is aquacomputer's USB\aquabus pump.
This is aquacomputer's PWM D5 pump.
I believe all aquacomputer D5 pump motors ship with required cables.

I am not too familiar with PWM, but I understand there are issues with using 4 pin cables on more than 1 fan on a connector... only 1 should have 4 pins, the balance must have 3 pins (rpm reports from 1 fan only).


----------



## fast_fate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *InfoSeeker*
> 
> The pump you linked is NOT a PWM pump, it is aquacomputer's USB\aquabus pump.
> This is aquacomputer's PWM D5 pump.
> I believe all aquacomputer D5 pump motors ship with required cables.
> 
> I am not too familiar with PWM, but I understand there are issues with using 4 pin cables on more than 1 fan on a connector... only 1 should have 4 pins, the balance must have 3 pins (rpm reports from 1 fan only).


Good pick up un the linked USB pump - not PWM
I read his text, but not the link


----------



## DanBr

*The pump you linked is NOT a PWM pump, it is aquacomputer's USB\aquabus pump.
This is aquacomputer's PWM D5 pump.
http://www.performance-pcs.com/aquacomputer-d5-pump-motor-with-pwm-input-and-speed-signal.html
I believe all aquacomputer D5 pump motors ship with required cables.

*

the pump I linked to connects to the Aquaero without taking up one of the fan channels.
http://www.performance-pcs.com/aquacomputer-d5-pump-mechanics-with-usb-and-aquabus-interface.html
it has the 4 pin connection to go to the Aquaero 6. It would be controlled by the Aquaero, I believe the pump you listed could be controlled by the PWM on the Aquaero, but *does* take up one of the fan channels


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DanBr*
> 
> *The pump you linked is NOT a PWM pump, it is aquacomputer's USB\aquabus pump.
> This is aquacomputer's PWM D5 pump.
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/aquacomputer-d5-pump-motor-with-pwm-input-and-speed-signal.html
> I believe all aquacomputer D5 pump motors ship with required cables.
> 
> *
> 
> the pump I linked to connects to the Aquaero without taking up one of the fan channels.
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/aquacomputer-d5-pump-mechanics-with-usb-and-aquabus-interface.html
> it has the 4 pin connection to go to the Aquaero 6. It would be controlled by the Aquaero, I believe the pump you listed could be controlled by the PWM on the Aquaero, but *does* take up one of the fan channels


You confused them when you said you ordered the pump with the PWM plug.

They took that to mean you wanted the PWM pump.

"I am also ordering the D5 pump that has the PWM plug to go to the A6
http://www.performance-pcs.com/aquacomputer-d5-pump-mechanics-with-usb-and-aquabus-interface.html"

From previous conversation, I realized that you wanted the Aqubus pump(s) and that you had just mis-spoke PWM instead of Aquabus . .

Or at least I think that's what you meant . .

Darlene


----------



## InfoSeeker

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DanBr*
> 
> the pump I linked to connects to the Aquaero without taking up one of the fan channels.
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/aquacomputer-d5-pump-mechanics-with-usb-and-aquabus-interface.html
> it has the 4 pin connection to go to the Aquaero 6. It would be controlled by the Aquaero, I believe the pump you listed could be controlled by the PWM on the Aquaero, but *does* take up one of the fan channels


The USB/Aquabus D5 pump you linked to does have a four pin connector that goes to the aquaero high aquabus port, but that is not PWM, it is aquabus. I have two of the USB/aquabus D5 pumps in my loop.

The PWM D5 pump connects to a PWM (fan) port on the aquaero.


----------



## DanBr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> You confused them when you said you ordered the pump with the PWM plug.
> 
> They took that to mean you wanted the PWM pump.
> 
> "I am also ordering the D5 pump that has the PWM plug to go to the A6
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/aquacomputer-d5-pump-mechanics-with-usb-and-aquabus-interface.html"
> 
> From previous conversation, I realized that you wanted the Aqubus pump(s) and that you had just mis-spoke PWM instead of Aquabus . .
> 
> Or at least I think that's what you meant . .
> 
> Darlene


you are correct of course, my understanding of the terms/specs is not precise enough and I get into trouble
Thanks

I thought 4 pin fan = PWM so 4 pin plug on pump =PWM


----------



## DanBr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *InfoSeeker*
> 
> The USB/Aquabus D5 pump you linked to does have a four pin connector that goes to the aquaero high aquabus port, but that is not PWM, it is aquabus. I have two of the USB/aquabus D5 pumps in my loop.
> 
> The PWM D5 pump connects to a PWM (fan) port on the aquaero.


thanks, the Aquaero is very confusing to me and I apologize for mixing up the terms
Dan
I thought 4 pin fan = PWM so 4 pin plug on pump =PWM


----------



## ratzofftoya

What should one consider when determining whether to order the AC PWM pump or the aquabus/USB pump?


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ratzofftoya*
> 
> What should one consider when determining whether to order the AC PWM pump or the aquabus/USB pump?


cost (pwm from Aqua is cheaper that the usb version) and number of fan channels you need for fans since the pwm pump occupy one of the 4 fan headers.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ratzofftoya*
> 
> What should one consider when determining whether to order the AC PWM pump or the aquabus/USB pump?


Do you have a fan channel to dedicate to the pump, is it worth the extra cost for the aquabus pump, and are you using multiple pumps and need to run them particularly slowly.

(PWM does low speeds better, but needs a fan channel)

D.


----------



## ratzofftoya

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Do you have a fan channel to dedicate to the pump, is it worth the extra cost for the aquabus pump, and are you using multiple pumps and need to run them particularly slowly.
> 
> (PWM does low speeds better, but needs a fan channel)
> 
> D.


I'll have two loops:
One with a D5 pump, 8 fans (on two rads), temp sensor(s), and probably flow meter
One with a D5 pump, either 4 or 8 fans (if I decide to do p/p), temp sensor(s), and probably a flow meter.

What do you suggest? For that matter, should I be running poweradjusts, as well?

Oh, and I'll have a farby, too.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ratzofftoya*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Do you have a fan channel to dedicate to the pump, is it worth the extra cost for the aquabus pump, and are you using multiple pumps and need to run them particularly slowly.
> 
> (PWM does low speeds better, but needs a fan channel)
> 
> D.
> 
> 
> 
> I'll have two loops:
> One with a D5 pump, 8 fans (on two rads), temp sensor(s), and probably flow meter
> One with a D5 pump, either 4 or 8 fans (if I decide to do p/p), temp sensor(s), and probably a flow meter.
> 
> What do you suggest? For that matter, should I be running poweradjusts, as well?
> 
> Oh, and I'll have a farby, too.
Click to expand...

No need for power adjusts with the AC aquabus pumps, or the PWM pumps.

You could go either way . . . 2 channels for the pumps and 2 channels for the fans, 8 fans per chan shouldn't be an issue, especially if they are PWM fans. . . . kind of a bare bones setup.

For a little more cost, you could go for the Aquabus pumps that would use the Aquabus connection, and leave you with 2 fan channels for expansion or change of plans down the road.

Having the additional flexibility probably makes a better choice.

D.


----------



## ratzofftoya

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> No need for power adjusts with the AC aquabus pumps, or the PWM pumps.
> 
> You could go either way . . . 2 channels for the pumps and 2 channels for the fans, 8 fans per chan shouldn't be an issue, especially if they are PWM fans. . . . kind of a bare bones setup.
> 
> For a little more cost, you could go for the Aquabus pumps that would use the Aquabus connection, and leave you with 2 fan channels for expansion or change of plans down the road.
> 
> Having the additional flexibility probably makes a better choice.
> 
> D.


Makes sense to me! Will I be able to use both the Aquabus pumps and two flow sensors at the same time?

What would counsel me to use the poweradjusts?


----------



## Jakusonfire

The aquabus pumps and usb flow sensors are all MPS (multi purpose sensor) devices. The max number of mps devices is 4.
So, yep you can run both pumps and sensors but that will max out the system and prevent adding any more.


----------



## RpeeKooz

quick few questions regarding THE AQUA SUITE SOFTWARE...
the time on my aquaero device is always wrong no matter how many times i change it???what am i doing wrong???

on the information pages where you can choose what is displayed on the device i have added the ones i want to see and there times etc..but every time my pc shuts down these pages do no save. i click the little floppy dick and the green tick is there..is this saving it????

i have 4 profiles set up pwm controlled
1 is 40%
2 is 50%
3 is 70%
4 is 90%
these profiles save but the information pages dont...

i have white led fans and and there led isnt bright how do i crank up the lights without cranking the fan speed up ????

thanks


----------



## Shoggy

The time is synchronized by the Aqua Computer Windows service which runs in the background all the time (if installed). If it is not running you should see a notification in the lower left corner of the aquasuite that will tell you that the service is not running which cold cause problems with some functions.

Have you done the screen settings for all four profiles? Each profile will also save individual screen settings.

So far it sounds a lot like your USB communication to the device does not work correctly.

Are other settings still saved correctly when you change them now?


----------



## thekasafist

Would anyone be kind enough to help me find a fan splitter for my AQ6 I have a Little Devil PC-V8 and it will house 14 fans total. I know the AQ6 has 4 fan channels rated at so many ampere's/watts and so on. I need to put certain things on some channels and others on other channels. It will have 2 pumps not just one which I am also looking to control through the fan controller as well. So 6 of these 14 fans will be on radiators and the rest are just to keep running at a nice low speed but there are many so I was looking to simply split them between two channels. Ultimately I was thinking 4 fans on 1 channel, 4 fans on another channel, 6 fans for the rads on another channel and the pumps on their own channel. Any help with this would be appreciated. The pumps I would be considering would be the Aquacomputer pumps that run through the aquabus of course. Ultimately I want the AQ6 to control anything and everything haha! I know upfront you might think the farbwerk might be nice to simply have upfront but at the moment I can't get it and this is my only option! Otherwise I would have simply gone with just 2-way splitters. Thanks in advance!

P.S. What does RSC mean?


----------



## RpeeKooz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> The time is synchronized by the Aqua Computer Windows service which runs in the background all the time (if installed). If it is not running you should see a notification in the lower left corner of the aquasuite that will tell you that the service is not running which cold cause problems with some functions.
> 
> Have you done the screen settings for all four profiles? Each profile will also save individual screen settings.
> 
> So far it sounds a lot like your USB communication to the device does not work correctly.
> 
> Are other settings still saved correctly when you change them now?


the lower left corner has like a wifi icon ??i click it it comes up with download a version of the aquasuite??atm when i open aquasuite at the top is says 2015 - 6 ???this correct???
regarding the 4 profile i thought they changed all the same ill do that now individually//
the usb not working properly how can i fix that or how can i tell its not working properly

thanks


----------



## Shoggy

I was talking about a large flashy notification message which is there all the time. If the service would not run you will not miss that for sure









Version 2015 V6 is the latest.

Each profile is a complete set of ALL settings of the device. So when you change something in profile 1 it has not effect at all for the other three profiles.

A problem with the USB connection can be pretty much everything. There is no specific solution. Could be a faulty cable, problems with other software, interferences caused by other devices etc. If there is USB problem it will be easy to note since your settings will not work as they should because they never made their way to the aquaero.


----------



## RpeeKooz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> I was talking about a large flashy notification message which is there all the time. If the service would not run you will not miss that for sure
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Version 2015 V6 is the latest.
> 
> Each profile is a complete set of ALL settings of the device. So when you change something in profile 1 it has not effect at all for the other three profiles.
> 
> A problem with the USB connection can be pretty much everything. There is no specific solution. Could be a faulty cable, problems with other software, interferences caused by other devices etc. If there is USB problem it will be easy to note since your settings will not work as they should because they never made their way to the aquaero.


ok ive changed all 4 profiles to what i want i will check tomorrow when i start up again..
the time in aquasuite is correct but its way out on the device...should i change cable and usb slot ??


----------



## Shoggy

I tink that will not make any sense. If all other settings work there is no reason why the time/date should be wrong because of the cable. That problem must have some other reasons. Which kind of difference are we talking about? If it is exactly X hours it is very like that the time zone settings are wrong.


----------



## Kimir

If you unplug your psu every day, obviously the time will reset, unless you have the real time clock module.


----------



## thekasafist

Speaking of which I would like a real time clock module but I notice I can't find one for the AQ6. Do you happen to have a link for the appropriate model number for the clock module that's not just for the AQ5?


----------



## Kimir

Aquacomputer specify that the real time clock module is for both Aquaero 5 and 6.
http://shop.aquacomputer.de/product_info.php?language=en&products_id=2892


----------



## thekasafist

Oh hey thanks there was a user on FrozenCPU that said it wasn't actually compatible so I thought maybe that was still the case. I just confirmed PPCS and FrozenCPU have that model of the time clock. Cheaper at PPCS though might stick with them.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thekasafist*
> 
> Oh hey thanks there was a user on FrozenCPU that said it wasn't actually compatible so I thought maybe that was still the case. I just confirmed PPCS and FrozenCPU have that model of the time clock. Cheaper at PPCS though might stick with them.


You known that ForzenCPU is out of business right? It is not a option...


----------



## jeanspaulo

Hello Darlene, can I officially join the club?


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jeanspaulo*
> 
> Hello Darlene, can I officially join the club?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Welcome aboard









Darlene


----------



## DanBr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kimir*
> 
> If you unplug your psu every day, obviously the time will reset, unless you have the real time clock module.


Is there any problem with unplugging the computer?
The"time will reset", but does that cause any functional problems ?


----------



## Kimir

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DanBr*
> 
> Is there any problem with unplugging the computer?
> The"time will reset", but does that cause any functional problems ?


Not at all, never had an issue doing so. It sync with Windows as it's always connected in USB.


----------



## ratzofftoya

So when would I ever want to use a poweradjust?


----------



## ozzy1925

Need help from asus extreme v users with aq 6 i have 2 d5usb pumps and first i need to connect them to the motherboard to give adress from aquaerosoftware but i see there is only one usb 2.0 slot on the board is there any other i cant find my manual


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ozzy1925*
> 
> Need help from asus extreme v users with aq 6 i have 2 d5usb pumps and first i need to connect them to the motherboard to give adress from aquaerosoftware but i see there is only one usb 2.0 slot on the board is there any other i cant find my manual


you can plug both on one usb 2 header if you want. The MPS devices occupy only half the usb port, or putting the other way a single usb 2 header have two usb ports there. 5 pin and 4 pins. The 5 th pin does not make any difference since the missing pin is one of the two grounds. Besides, you only need to change the address of one of the pumps if you don´t have any other mps devices using aquabus interface. Thus pump A will be bus 12 and pump B will be bus address 13 or something like that. 12 is the default if I recall correctly.


----------



## InfoSeeker

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RpeeKooz*
> 
> the lower left corner has like a wifi icon ??i click it it comes up with download a version of the aquasuite??atm when i open aquasuite at the top is says 2015 - 6 ???this correct???
> regarding the 4 profile i thought they changed all the same ill do that now individually//
> the usb not working properly how can i fix that or how can i tell its not working properly
> 
> thanks


Appears there may be two definitions of lower-left... I believe Shoggy meant in the aquasuite>Settings tab:


----------



## wjturner78

If my aq6 is located behind my case door is there any way to use the ir transmitter out put to receive ir signals?


----------



## InfoSeeker

IR is in the light spectrum, so if your door blocks light, then the IR port will not function.

But really, I think the IR device only controls the aq6, which can be done much easier with aquasuite... if you have that installed.


----------



## Ironsmack

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheJackal83*
> 
> The fans I'm going to use are the EK Vardar's non PWM and will be powerd by the PSU not the Aquaero.


The Vardars only come with PWM. Got any link?


----------



## Kimir

Yeah Vardars are only PWM.


----------



## Shoggy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *InfoSeeker*
> 
> Appears there may be two definitions of lower-left... I believe Shoggy meant in the aquasuite>Settings tab


Nope.


----------



## ozzy1925

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> you can plug both on one usb 2 header if you want. The MPS devices occupy only half the usb port, or putting the other way a single usb 2 header have two usb ports there. 5 pin and 4 pins. The 5 th pin does not make any difference since the missing pin is one of the two grounds. Besides, you only need to change the address of one of the pumps if you don´t have any other mps devices using aquabus interface. Thus pump A will be bus 12 and pump B will be bus address 13 or something like that. 12 is the default if I recall correctly.


Thanks i also need 1 more usb 2.0 slot for my psu i and i saw some people used the rog extension as usb 2.0 slot .Do you think that will damage the mobo?


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ozzy1925*
> 
> Thanks i also need 1 more usb 2.0 slot for my psu i and i saw some people used the rog extension as usb 2.0 slot .Do you think that will damage the mobo?


you can always use one of these to increase the number of ports:

http://www.amazon.com/NZXT-IU01-Internal-Expansion-Black/dp/B0031ESKJA

it is a great little unit. Also, some adapter from usb 3 to usb 2 exists (internal) which can be handy. In any case you don´t need to keep the pumps in the usb. Just change the address and save it to the mps board. Set priority to aquabus and done. you can plug the pumps in the high aquabus and disconnect the usb


----------



## RpeeKooz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *InfoSeeker*
> 
> Appears there may be two definitions of lower-left... I believe Shoggy meant in the aquasuite>Settings tab:


mine is exactly the same as this picture..do i have to run as administrator??
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> Nope.


mine is the same as the picture above that info seeker posted..service is installed..service is running...do i need to run as admin ????


----------



## RpeeKooz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> I tink that will not make any sense. If all other settings work there is no reason why the time/date should be wrong because of the cable. That problem must have some other reasons. Which kind of difference are we talking about? If it is exactly X hours it is very like that the time zone settings are wrong.


yeah it had it the wrong time zone..what a dope







it also seems that my information pages have saved correctly..thanks for the help its so confusing with all the features this thing is awesome..still need to figure out this fan curve..my flow threw the ac high flow sensor is about 115L/h and my d5 pump setting is on 2 does that sound right ???

thanks


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ratzofftoya*
> 
> So when would I ever want to use a poweradjust?


1 pumps
2 many fans ( voltage controlled )
3 voltage controlled fans ( I E my nas build ) and only 1 channel ie NO aquaero
-- imo the usb version makes a pretty kick but single channel controller !~
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wjturner78*
> 
> If my aq6 is located behind my case door is there any way to use the ir transmitter out put to receive ir signals?


no--- they wont even release the ir accessory @Shoggy

they also ( they being markets not ac ) make ir repeaters if it is important for about 20 usd and going up in price

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *InfoSeeker*
> 
> IR is in the light spectrum, so if your door blocks light, then the IR port will not function.
> 
> But really, I think the IR device only controls the aq6, which can be done much easier with aquasuite... if you have that installed.


they also relay mouse and keyboard to pc when using remote as keyboard ( i use on my htpc like this )

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ozzy1925*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> you can plug both on one usb 2 header if you want. The MPS devices occupy only half the usb port, or putting the other way a single usb 2 header have two usb ports there. 5 pin and 4 pins. The 5 th pin does not make any difference since the missing pin is one of the two grounds. Besides, you only need to change the address of one of the pumps if you don´t have any other mps devices using aquabus interface. Thus pump A will be bus 12 and pump B will be bus address 13 or something like that. 12 is the default if I recall correctly.
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks i also need 1 more usb 2.0 slot for my psu i and i saw some people used the rog extension as usb 2.0 slot .Do you think that will damage the mobo?
Click to expand...

you can use this
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *ozzy1925*
> 
> Thanks i also need 1 more usb 2.0 slot for my psu i and i saw some people used the rog extension as usb 2.0 slot .Do you think that will damage the mobo?
> 
> 
> 
> you can always use one of these to increase the number of ports:
> 
> http://www.amazon.com/NZXT-IU01-Internal-Expansion-Black/dp/B0031ESKJA
> 
> it is a great little unit. Also, some adapter from usb 3 to usb 2 exists (internal) which can be handy. In any case you don´t need to keep the pumps in the usb. Just change the address and save it to the mps board. Set priority to aquabus and done. you can plug the pumps in the high aquabus and disconnect the usb
Click to expand...

i love these

@ozzy1925

you can see the rog port has one section with 9 pins ( that is a usb port ) and one with 8 ( THIS IS NOT A USB PORT !!!!!!!! )

the rog port does indeed have a usb port you can use for ANY usb if you need it and are not using the oc panel or front panel


----------



## InfoSeeker

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RpeeKooz*
> 
> mine is exactly the same as this picture..do i have to run as administrator??
> 
> mine is the same as the picture above that info seeker posted..service is installed..service is running...do i need to run as admin ????


I believe admin rights only needed to change installed and running status.
If your's is installed & running, leave it alone


----------



## Mega Man

quick question @Shoggy -- is there a chance AC may make a PWM expansion board for the AQ ? either like a power ADJ or a LT model ( IE firmware that allows lts to use pwm - you can buy a pro and delcd it for 8 pwm channels ??!??!?!?1?1??!?!??!?!?!?!?!??!?!?!?!?!? )

i know it wouldn't be used alot, but i would love it for my m8/th10/tx10- that many fans and it would allow me to shut off fans for a quiet rig when i want / need them to


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thekasafist*
> 
> Speaking of which I would like a real time clock module but I notice I can't find one for the AQ6. Do you happen to have a link for the appropriate model number for the clock module that's not just for the AQ5?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DanBr*
> 
> Is there any problem with unplugging the computer?
> The"time will reset", but does that cause any functional problems ?


Unplugging the psu does not interfere with the time settings on the aquaero as long as it is connected via usb ... It synchronises itself on power up.
The real time clock module is a specialized bit of kit that is really only useful for people who run Aquaeros externally without a usb connection ... Like for instance a test bench setup or something like that.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RpeeKooz*
> 
> ..my flow threw the ac high flow sensor is about 115L/h and my d5 pump setting is on 2 does that sound right ???
> 
> thanks


That is right where it should be. Nearly exactly the same as mine at the same speed.


----------



## Shoggy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RpeeKooz*
> 
> mine is the same as the picture above that info seeker posted..service is installed..service is running...do i need to run as admin ????


Everything OK then. My screenshot was only an example how the warning box in the lower left corner would look like if the service is NOT running. Running it with admin rights is only needed to change the settings for the service.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> quick question @Shoggy -- is there a chance AC may make a PWM expansion board for the AQ ?


Very unlikely at the moment.


----------



## RpeeKooz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> That is right where it should be. Nearly exactly the same as mine at the same speed.


ok no worries cheers for that getting round to all the features of this thing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> Everything OK then. My screenshot was only an example how the warning box in the lower left corner would look like if the service is NOT running. Running it with admin rights is only needed to change the settings for the service.
> Very unlikely at the moment.


thanks guys appreciate it


----------



## hisXLNC

if i intend to buy an aquaero 6 xt when stock is available which pump would i need to take full advantage of its features?

Aqua Computer D5 pump motor with PWM input and speed signal
or
Aquacomputer D5 Pump Mechanics with USB and Aquabus Interface

?


----------



## catbuster

Any plans on releasing Aquaero 6 LT ?







really dont need the screen


----------



## bkvamme

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *catbuster*
> 
> Any plans on releasing Aquaero 6 LT ?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> really dont need the screen


Same. Would love to have more PWM channels, but the premium for jumping from the 5LT to the 6 is too much for my pockets...


----------



## Archea47

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hisXLNC*
> 
> if i intend to buy an aquaero 6 xt when stock is available which pump would i need to take full advantage of its features?
> 
> Aqua Computer D5 pump motor with PWM input and speed signal
> or
> Aquacomputer D5 Pump Mechanics with USB and Aquabus Interface
> 
> ?


If you don't mind being tied to the Aquaero I would pursue the Aquabus/USB pump


----------



## Mega Man

You are not tied to the aq. You can run it from only usb

No aq6lt is not happening.

My guess is the pcb ( iirc dual layer ) is too costly to make a LT ( in this thread or another spiffy had stayed they have an excessively low margin on the LT model.

Me I would love to see one even if I have to pay 150-180 I think it would be totally worth it


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> You are not tied to the aq. You can run it from only usb
> 
> No aq6lt is not happening.
> 
> My guess is the pcb ( iirc dual layer ) is too costly to make a LT ( in this thread or another spiffy had stayed they have an excessively low margin on the LT model.
> 
> Me I would love to see one even if I have to pay 150-180 I think it would be totally worth it


Yeah. But a poweradjust PWM version would be doable I guess and a great welcome to the line up. What you think @Shoggy?


----------



## ratzofftoya

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> 1 pumps
> 2 many fans ( voltage controlled )
> 3 voltage controlled fans ( I E my nas build ) and only 1 channel ie NO aquaero


But you can use the Aquabus pumps with the Aquaero too, right? So then you wouldn't need the PAs?


----------



## Mega Man

You miss the point

1 and 2 is in addition to aqs. 3 is completely without.

What should I do with 4 fan channels and my pump ( of which I need four and the aquabus only supports two ) and 60 fans? Voltage control of course and I want 6 separate channels

Enter the PA


----------



## ratzofftoya

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> You miss the point
> 
> 1 and 2 is in addition to aqs. 3 is completely without.
> 
> What should I do with 4 fan channels and my pump ( of which I need four and the aquabus only supports two ) and 60 fans? Voltage control of course and I want 6 separate channels
> 
> Enter the PA


Wow. Well sounds like I'll be find with just the AQ6XT with 2 Aquabus pumps, some flow meters, and 12-16 fans.


----------



## ozzy1925

i need help with adjusting my fan speed , what ever i try my fans are running at full speed i have 2x8 way swiftech pwm splitter and 14x wingsboost 2 fans .I tried aquasuite software and preset value option from aquaero 6xt but nothing seem to work but when i connect my fans directly to aquaero i can control from preset value option


----------



## hisXLNC

anyone can find the aquaero 6 xt in stock anywhere?


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ozzy1925*
> 
> i need help with adjusting my fan speed , what ever i try my fans are running at full speed i have 2x8 way swiftech pwm splitter and 14x wingsboost 2 fans .I tried aquasuite software and preset value option from aquaero 6xt but nothing seem to work but when i connect my fans directly to aquaero i can control from preset value option


Make sure the fan mode selected is pwm for each channel you have pwm fans on it. That is not the default option on the advance setting menu of the fan channel. Besides that add the fan channel to the controller and that should take care of things.


----------



## Mega Man

Your fans are pwm? May have a bad splitter.

If 3 pin then that is why


----------



## hisXLNC

So ive ordered the Aquacomputer D5 Pump Mechanics with USB and Aquabus Interface, waiting to find a unit of the aquaero 6xt in stock some where but im out of luck there (only place that has it is frozencpu and well...you know)

i have 8 fans (1 at the back, 3 top rad, 2 bottom rad, 2 front of case)

what more parts do i need to hook up all the fans?
also do i need any other parts for the other sensors? (flow, etc..?)

thanks


----------



## Mega Man

http://www.performance-pcs.com/accessories-misc/aquacomputer-aquaero-6-pro-usb-fan-controller-grafik-lcd.html

just a fyi it is the same

minus the buttons and accessories, but you can buy the remote


----------



## hisXLNC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/accessories-misc/aquacomputer-aquaero-6-pro-usb-fan-controller-grafik-lcd.html
> 
> just a fyi it is the same
> 
> minus the buttons and accessories, but you can buy the remote


yeah i saw that but im not a fan of the buttons to be honest -.-


----------



## ozzy1925

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Make sure the fan mode selected is pwm for each channel you have pwm fans on it. That is not the default option on the advance setting menu of the fan channel. Besides that add the fan channel to the controller and that should take care of things.


sorry for the noob question but i found the pwm option in the aquasuite but can you show me how to add fan channel to the controller?


----------



## Mega Man

i understand and that is ok, aquatuning and or aquacomputer is a good choice then quick delivery even form outside of us


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ozzy1925*
> 
> sorry for the noob question but i found the pwm option in the aquasuite but can you show me how to add fan channel to the controller?




this is my controller for the fans and pumps (double click for high resolution and from within imgur again click on the image). On the left side you see there is a data source. Select the temp you want to use to control. In my case the difference between water and ambient temps. On the right side you can see a + button that you use to add the fan channel to the controller. Further control can be exercised by setting minimum and maximum speed/power for each fan channel.


----------



## Shoggy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Yeah. But a poweradjust PWM version would be doable I guess and a great welcome to the line up. What you think @Shoggy?


Maybe in the future but not now. If you ask me it would be also a bit stupid because the poweradjust was designed to control stuff like pumps with an analog voltage control. Offering it just for PWM stuff is like buying a high end gaming rig to write some letters in MS Word with it


----------



## thekasafist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> Unplugging the psu does not interfere with the time settings on the aquaero as long as it is connected via usb ... It synchronises itself on power up.
> The real time clock module is a specialized bit of kit that is really only useful for people who run Aquaeros externally without a usb connection ... Like for instance a test bench setup or something like that.
> That is right where it should be. Nearly exactly the same as mine at the same speed.


Wow thanks so much you saved me some money. I thought it was the other way around. I have intention of plugging it in USB so I guess I am good I thought you needed that time clock to keep time but thanks for the heads up. Good to know I got everything I need right now for this beautiful fan controller. Thanks again @Jakusonfire!


----------



## DanBr

What is the difference between the Aquaero 6 Pro
http://www.performance-pcs.com/aquacomputer-aquaero-6-pro-usb-fan-controller-grafik-lcd.html
and the new
Aquacomputer Aquaero 6 XT Blue USB Fan-Controller, Graphic-LCD, Touch Control, IR Remote Control
http://www.performance-pcs.com/aquacomputer-aquaero-6-xt-blue-usb-fan-controller-graphic-lcd-touch-control-ir-remote-control.html#Features
The XT Blue is out of stock, looking at plan "B"

Is it mainly the IR remote control?
Is there a difference in the LCD readout?
Are all the specs, connections etc the same?

Thanks
Dan


----------



## sinnedone

Guy and gals, I have a question about the MPS 400 flow sensor and its diffusor plate.

Looking at the table in the instructions 13/10mm or larger I do not need to use it. Anything less like 10/8mm and 11/8mm and I do need to use it.

Im using monsoon 1/2" hard line fittings that have a hex section that comes in at it's smallest point to be 8.8mm(largest about 9.8mm so figure 9.3mm average) . The acrylic tubing comes to a 9.3mm ish inside diameter. The rest of the fittimgs have about a 9.8mm id.

Going by the table they provide it looks like I should install the diffusor plate.

Am I correct in how I interpreted the table, or am I close enough to 10mm id that the diffusor plate is not needed?


----------



## Dagamus NM

My understanding is that the differences are in the user interface at the hardware level. The xt is touchscreen and has the remote included. The pro has three buttons on the right to work with.

I have both and can't really speak to them one way or another as the pro is the only one I have installed. As my PC is across the room from where I sit I just open aquasuite to check things anyway. I have found the display most useful as a clock but I am not using anywhere near potential, at least not yet.


----------



## Mega Man

Idk but I would assume the pro is also red less on the front of the unit


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sinnedone*
> 
> Guy and gals, I have a question about the MPS 400 flow sensor and its diffusor plate.
> 
> Looking at the table in the instructions 13/10mm or larger I do not need to use it. Anything less like 10/8mm and 11/8mm and I do need to use it.
> 
> Im using monsoon 1/2" hard line fittings that have a hex section that comes in at it's smallest point to be 8.8mm(largest about 9.8mm so figure 9.3mm average) . The acrylic tubing comes to a 9.3mm ish inside diameter. The rest of the fittimgs have about a 9.8mm id.
> 
> Going by the table they provide it looks like I should install the diffusor plate.
> 
> Am I correct in how I interpreted the table, or am I close enough to 10mm id that the diffusor plate is not needed?


Never realized that information about the diffusor plate. My take on this is yes if you want to use factory calibrated curves. I don't use it specially that only 10/13 is available for the MPS400 (at least on aquasuite). I usually either calibrate the sensor outside the pc with a high flow meter in the same loop or use a pre-calibrated curve like fast_fate 5/8 x 3/8 bitspower fittings curve or Jak curve. Both are available at the watercooling testing thread.

for reference:
http://www.overclock.net/t/1501978/ocn-community-water-cooling-test-thread/450#post_23910137
http://www.overclock.net/t/1501978/ocn-community-water-cooling-test-thread/460#post_23914558

The last one is the one I use since I am using c47.


----------



## DanBr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dagamus NM*
> 
> My understanding is that the differences are in the user interface at the hardware level. The xt is touchscreen and has the remote included. The pro has three buttons on the right to work with.
> 
> I have both and can't really speak to them one way or another as the pro is the only one I have installed. As my PC is across the room from where I sit I just open aquasuite to check things anyway. I have found the display most useful as a clock but I am not using anywhere near potential, at least not yet.


thanks,
I might just go with the pro and save a little money
Dan


----------



## Shoggy

The main controller boards are always the same so only the interface at the front is different and the XT also comes with the remote control in addition while for the PRO it can be purchased as optional accessory. Removing the display will also make it a LT version (even if it is officially not available). The firmware checks with every start which additional parts are installed:

No display -> LT
Display -> PRO
Display + touch controller -> XT


----------



## sinnedone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Never realized that information about the diffusor plate. My take on this is yes if you want to use factory calibrated curves. I don't use it specially that only 10/13 is available for the MPS400 (at least on aquasuite). I usually either calibrate the sensor outside the pc with a high flow meter in the same loop or use a pre-calibrated curve like fast_fate 5/8 x 3/8 bitspower fittings curve or Jak curve. Both are available at the watercooling testing thread.
> 
> for reference:
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1501978/ocn-community-water-cooling-test-thread/450#post_23910137
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1501978/ocn-community-water-cooling-test-thread/460#post_23914558
> 
> The last one is the one I use since I am using c47.


Thanks Gabrielzm.

Looks like unless I personally calibrate I'll have to go with either aquacomputer profiles or mayne the second one you posted.

Looks like I'd be better off leaving the diffusor plate off and just using the 10mm id profile or custom one you posted. Neither would be perfect so I would have to accept that fact.

What do you think? Sounds like a plan?


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sinnedone*
> 
> Thanks Gabrielzm.
> 
> Looks like unless I personally calibrate I'll have to go with either aquacomputer profiles or mayne the second you you posted.
> 
> Looks like I'd be better off leaving the diffusor plate off and just using the 10mm id profile or custom one you posted. Neither would be perfect so I would have to accept that fact.
> 
> What do you think? Sounds like a plan?


Yep it does. I personally checked the calibration from Jak on c47 using a spare high flow meter on the same loop and the readings were the same at 100% and at 50% pump power. So I am happy with that calibration. After that I just took the high flow usb out of the loop and call the day off


----------



## sinnedone

Thanks again Gabrielzm. Looks like I might have to invest in a high flow usb somewhere down the line.

Say I installed a high flow usb with soft tubing in place of one of the hardline runs in a fully completed system, would that be good enough to calibrate the MPS 400? Then i could just remove the high flow usb and reinstall the hard line tubing run.

If its at simple as that, I might try that at a later date.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sinnedone*
> 
> Thanks again Gabrielzm. Looks like I might have to invest in a high flow usb somewhere down the line.
> 
> Say I installed a high flow usb with soft tubing in place of one of the hardline runs in a fully completed system, would that be good enough to calibrate the MPS 400? Then i could just remove the high flow usb and reinstall the hard line tubing run.
> 
> If its at simple as that, I might try that at a later date.


I actually used the same hard line tubing on both loops, with and without, the high flow meter. Or bitspower extensions to connect them. Using a wider tube might or not affect the mps 400 readings. Alternatively you might try to put something like this on the loop:



just for the calibration.


----------



## ratzofftoya

Which flow sensors do I want, the MPS Flow 400s or the High Flow USB?


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ratzofftoya*
> 
> Which flow sensors do I want, the MPS Flow 400s or the High Flow USB?


Hmmm let's see:



no, nothing....









Jokes aside you are the only one capable of answering the question you post...How would I known what you want? But if you need to ask specific questions related to functionality and operation of each model we are here to help


----------



## ratzofftoya

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Hmmm let's see:
> 
> 
> 
> no, nothing....
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Jokes aside you are the only one capable of answering the question you post...How would I known what you want? But if you need to ask specific questions related to functionality and operation of each model we are here to help


Hah, got it. I guess I don't really understand the difference between the two, and their relative advantages and disadvantages. I'll be using an Aquaero 6 XT, and will have 2 pumps connected to the aquabus. What should I consider?


----------



## sinnedone

For me the main difference was size. The high flow usb is twice as big as the MPS 400.

The downside to the MPS 400 for me is the whole calibration thing.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ratzofftoya*
> 
> Hah, got it. I guess I don't really understand the difference between the two, and their relative advantages and disadvantages. I'll be using an Aquaero 6 XT, and will have 2 pumps connected to the aquabus. What should I consider?


The high flow is mechanical based on a digimesa flow meter. It have an impeller that rotate and from that rotation at a given time it will give you the flow. The advantages are easy to use, plug and play and accurate. The disvantages (at least in my opinion) is that is larger than the mps 400, can develop a little tickling noise specially at high flows, it have some restriction on it, a restriction that can reach similar values like a MIPS cpu block. The mps 400 is not mechanical it is based on differential pressure and so the advantages are noise free and a very low restriction as well as a very small size. It is accurate too if calibrated but that is also its disadvantage since it need to be calibrated.

just mine







of course.


----------



## headbass

soon to join the Aquaero club....I have ordered the Aquaero 6 Pro on monday. Should be here next week since I have later added a new cpu waterblock to the order, the EK Supermacy EVO nickel acetal and will install it together with my EK 970 TFX GPU waterblocks and another XT45 360 rad (already have one XT45 480 in my Enthoo Primo) that came this week.

I already had two units of Aerocool Touch 2100, the first one came with dead channel 5 so I sent it back and on the second unit one channel went dead after few weeks and one is sometimes losing signal for a brief moment, so I decided to step up the game and go for the aquaero (should have bought it in the first place but I liked the Aerocool looks and wanted to save some cash thinking it would be enough for a while)

Didn't feel like I would use the remote and I prefer the mechanical buttons looks (not that I would be pressing them too often anyway), also with the Pro version you can get the black faceplate (which I got).
Also got the black passive heatsink and a 53080 relay which I've read is needed to implement the pump shutdown failsave.

I have a Alphacool VPP655 Single pump (basically a D5 Vario with 3pin speed sensor) which I've read in most places that it cannot be controlled via Aquaero, but I've read on one forum that when you set it to max then the speed control with Aquaero will work so will have to wait and see. Not that I would really want to change the speed setting anyway. I have the pump in Alphacool bayres and between speed 2 and 3 it makes a pretty loud resonating noise which goes away above speed 3 but at that speed the pump is already becoming a bit noisy and on really high speeds it starts to make air bubbles in my loop even with the bayres filled to top. So I have it on speed 2 before it starts to make any noise and will probably want to keep it that way. I guess my pump is noisy because of the bayres, read that the XSPC bayres was known to be causing that, but it as well could just be a bad unit, kinda have bad luck when it comes to parts ;o[

Also noticed the pump always reports 2500rpm on my Aerocool controller no matter what speed it is set to so I will wait to test it with aquaero and if it still doesn't work I will probably RMA it.

Would it be better to go for the Aqua Computer D5 USB instead? I kinda like that for the filling/bleeding purposes I can set the D5 vario it to low speed without the pc running, guess that would not be possible with the USB version unless I had a power supply that have variable voltage output. Or I guess I could just connect the Aquaero alone and lower the pump speed and then connect the pump through it for the loop filling (with the rest of the pc off).

Also can the Aquaero power/control one D5 alone or do I need the PowerAdjust module?
Also I have Corsair SP120 LED fans, they have 3pin so no PWN therefore I guess no problem running 8 on one channel (push/pull on 480)?
Also I hope there is no minimum limit for the fan speeds? The Aercool controller only went to 50% which on SP120 LED was 800rpm which was a bit loud for idle so I'd like to get them running a bit lower. Does it have a startup voltage when using the voltage fan speed control mode and not PWM mode (to get above the minimal startup voltage of the fans) and then it goes to the desired voltage/speed ?


----------



## ratzofftoya

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *headbass*
> 
> I have a Alphacool VPP655 Single pump (basically a D5 Vario with 3pin speed sensor) which I've read in most places that it cannot be controlled via Aquaero, but I've read on one forum that when you set it to max then the speed control with Aquaero will work so will have to wait and see. Not that I would really want to change the speed setting anyway.


I believe that the "Diva Mod" (search this thread--big ups to our local expert on all things Aquacomputer (and CaseLabs, for that matter)) can allow you to control it via the Aquaero.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *headbass*
> 
> Would it be better to go for the Aqua Computer D5 USB instead? I kinda like that for the filling/bleeding purposes I can set the D5 vario it to low speed without the pc running, guess that would not be possible with the USB version unless I had a power supply that have variable voltage output. Or I guess I could just connect the Aquaero alone and lower the pump speed and then connect the pump through it for the loop filling (with the rest of the pc off).


I believe you have to connect the Aquaero pump via USB first in order to get it an address, then connect via Aquabus, for what it's worth. How would you turn on the Aquaero without the rest of the computer, that sounds interesting.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *headbass*
> 
> Also can the Aquaero power/control one D5 alone or do I need the PowerAdjust module?


From what I understand, you can connect it to the Aquaero without a PA.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *headbass*
> 
> Also I have Corsair SP120 LED fans, they have 3pin so no PWN therefore I guess no problem running 8 on one channel (push/pull on 480)?


I don't think eight of those badboys will pose a problem, though the fact that they are voltage controlled may make it more difficult.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *headbass*
> 
> Also I hope there is no minimum limit for the fan speeds? The Aercool controller only went to 50% which on SP120 LED was 800rpm which was a bit loud for idle so I'd like to get them running a bit lower. Does it have a startup voltage when using the voltage fan speed control mode and not PWM mode (to get above the minimal startup voltage of the fans) and then it goes to the desired voltage/speed ?


Interesting question, excited to hear the answer.


----------



## Gabrielzm

I can not for the life of me upload the custom logo to the Aquaero. It is 256 x 64 pixels monochrome. Even tried some of the customs images avaliable on the thread and could not upload to it. Using paint to save in the correct format. Any ideas folks?


----------



## electro2u

it's tricky... I did it once but went back. I wish I could remember how I got it to work. I think it might be that you need a different program to save the file type correctly.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> it's tricky... I did it once but went back. I wish I could remember how I got it to work. I think it might be that you need a different program to save the file type correctly.


That is my guess at the moment too. For some reason paint is not saving correctly...thks for chiming in.


----------



## InfoSeeker

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *headbass*
> 
> Also I hope there is no minimum limit for the fan speeds? The Aercool controller only went to 50% which on SP120 LED was 800rpm which was a bit loud for idle so I'd like to get them running a bit lower. Does it have a startup voltage when using the voltage fan speed control mode and not PWM mode (to get above the minimal startup voltage of the fans) and then it goes to the desired voltage/speed ?


You can set a minimum speed in the fan tab of the aquaero which will limit the minimum speed of the controller. So if the fan tab has a zero minimum speed set, the controller can take it to zero.

Yes, there is a start-up boost available, with duration and power specifications

.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> I can not for the life of me upload the custom logo to the Aquaero. It is 256 x 64 pixels monochrome. Even tried some of the customs images avaliable on the thread and could not upload to it. Using paint to save in the correct format. Any ideas folks?


did you move it over ?


currently using touch pad LOL ~~ yea i suck

you have to put it either in standby, idle or displayed screens

you have to move it, the easiest way i have found is to remove all displayed screens and move it there

when i say easiest i mean to test !~

also it will always have the AQ logo on aquasuite

i have my megaman logo on it now !~ as you can see in screenshot

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> it's tricky... I did it once but went back. I wish I could remember how I got it to work. I think it might be that you need a different program to save the file type correctly.


i did mine in paint
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ratzofftoya*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *headbass*
> 
> I have a Alphacool VPP655 Single pump (basically a D5 Vario with 3pin speed sensor) which I've read in most places that it cannot be controlled via Aquaero, but I've read on one forum that when you set it to max then the speed control with Aquaero will work so will have to wait and see. Not that I would really want to change the speed setting anyway.
> 
> 
> 
> I believe that the "Diva Mod" (search this thread--big ups to our local expert on all things Aquacomputer (and CaseLabs, for that matter)) can allow you to control it via the Aquaero.
Click to expand...

diva mod works on pwm pumps, it sounds as though his has a knob ( IE NOT PWM )


----------



## Gabrielzm

It simply does not open anything. Those two spaces below the upload button remain without any image...

edit - Using 256 x 64 which is on the file description in Aquasuite...Have tried several different files including the screenshot taken by the aquaero/aquasuite itself and nothing opens....


----------



## Mega Man

i did not have to make it a monochrome i did have to make it the right size, which at this time i dont remember sorry :/


----------



## ozzy1925

@Gabrielzm as you know i hooked my fans to 8 way swiftech splitter then to the aquaero thanks to you i can now control them and today i realized some of the fans are still runing at full speed for these ones I used 4 pin to 3 pin fan extension to some of the fans (these comes with the fans) because their cables are short but i still plugged 4 pin fan connection to the first slot of the splitter this could be the reason? Should i use 4pin to 4pin extension for the fans?


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ozzy1925*
> 
> @Gabrielzm as you know i hooked my fans to 8 way swiftech splitter then to the aquaero thanks to you i can now control them and today i realized some of the fans are still runing at full speed for these ones I used 4 pin to 3 pin fan extension to some of the fans (these comes with the fans) because their cables are short but i still plugged 4 pin fan connection to the first slot of the splitter this could be the reason? Should i use 4pin to 4pin extension for the fans?


For sure mate. PWM control need the 4 pins. The fourth pin is the pwm signal. Otherwise the fans are not getting the signal to pulse and control speed and are been supplied 12v and running full speed. Glad it is working however









Megaman I can import anything. It do not show on the upload slot in Aquasuite. No file ever had appeared there in the image slot, even the aquaero own screenshots...I guess will go back to the manual.


----------



## headbass

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ratzofftoya*
> 
> I believe that the "Diva Mod" (search this thread--big ups to our local expert on all things Aquacomputer (and CaseLabs, for that matter)) can allow you to control it via the Aquaero.


I've read that just turning the speed knob to 5 will do the trick without any modification of the pump electronics.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ratzofftoya*
> 
> I believe you have to connect the Aquaero pump via USB first in order to get it an address, then connect via Aquabus, for what it's worth. How would you turn on the Aquaero without the rest of the computer, that sounds interesting.


from what I've read the aquaero runs independently on OS (once you set it up) so I could just set the pump speed to minimum before taking the loop apart and adding the gpu waterblocks and then for filling the loop just connect the aquaero with pump and leave the rest of the pc off

thx for your answers


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *ozzy1925*
> 
> @Gabrielzm as you know i hooked my fans to 8 way swiftech splitter then to the aquaero thanks to you i can now control them and today i realized some of the fans are still runing at full speed for these ones I used 4 pin to 3 pin fan extension to some of the fans (these comes with the fans) because their cables are short but i still plugged 4 pin fan connection to the first slot of the splitter this could be the reason? Should i use 4pin to 4pin extension for the fans?
> 
> 
> 
> For sure mate. PWM control need the 4 pins. The fourth pin is the pwm signal. Otherwise the fans are not getting the signal to pulse and control speed and are been supplied 12v and running full speed. Glad it is working however
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Megaman I can import anything. It do not show on the upload slot in Aquasuite. No file ever had appeared there in the image slot, even the aquaero own screenshots...I guess will go back to the manual.
Click to expand...

i think i need some screenshots !

because as i said no file EVER appears there( this was really hard for me to do fyi - i had done what i wanted but i had to figure out how to make it show )

please take a pic like i dud ( use "snipping tool" its built into windows )


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> i think i need some screenshots !
> 
> because as i said no file EVER appears there( this was really hard for me to do fyi - i had done what i wanted but i had to figure out how to make it show )
> 
> please take a pic like i dud ( use "snipping tool" its built into windows )


Ah! Got it. Not sure how but one page finally showed up. and you are absolutely right nothing appear there you need to move it there. Thks mate! +rep



so the trick is to get the Aquacomputer user logo on the miscellaneous part of the scroll down menu and place it there.


----------



## ozzy1925

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> For sure mate. PWM control need the 4 pins. The fourth pin is the pwm signal. Otherwise the fans are not getting the signal to pulse and control speed and are been supplied 12v and running full speed. Glad it is working however


do you think using pwm y splitter like this works? http://www.quietpc.com/gel-pwm-cable or should i get straight without y ?


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ozzy1925*
> 
> do you think using pwm y splitter like this works? http://www.quietpc.com/gel-pwm-cable or should i get straight without y ?


that should work. But why Y? You want to put more than 8 fans on the splitter?


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> i think i need some screenshots !
> 
> because as i said no file EVER appears there( this was really hard for me to do fyi - i had done what i wanted but i had to figure out how to make it show )
> 
> please take a pic like i dud ( use "snipping tool" its built into windows )
> 
> 
> 
> Ah! Got it. Not sure how but one page finally showed up. and you are absolutely right nothing appear there you need to move it there. Thks mate! +rep
> 
> 
> 
> so the trick is to get the Aquacomputer user logo on the miscellaneous part of the scroll down menu and place it there.
Click to expand...

i am glad you got it ! looks great


----------



## ozzy1925

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> that should work. But why Y? You want to put more than 8 fans on the splitter?


well there is no reason for y but i couldnt see any other 4pin to 4pin cable


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ozzy1925*
> 
> well there is no reason for y but i couldnt see any other 4pin to 4pin cable


this one should work too:

http://www.quietpc.com/na-pwm-extension-ss


----------



## electro2u

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> 
> 
> so the trick is to get the Aquacomputer user logo on the miscellaneous part of the scroll down menu and place it there.


Looks absolutely smashing, Gabe! Grey Matter is a true master work. the custom page turned out just great.


----------



## sinnedone

What do you guys think about this run for the MPS400 flow sensor?




Good as is or should I get a longer extension towards the acrylic, and shorten that acrylic 90? You guys think that is good enough to equalize the flow on each side? Very limited in space and dont want to put it anywhere else as then it will be visible.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sinnedone*
> 
> What do you guys think about this run for the MPS400 flow sensor?
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Good as is or should I get a longer extension towards the acrylic, and shorten that acrylic 90? You guys think that is good enough to equalize the flow on each side? Very limited in space and dont want to put it anywhere else as then it will be visible.


It seems ok to me. I would say you have about 40 mm on each side before reaching the 90's?

Thks @electro2u







I am happy with the results on Grey Matter.


----------



## sinnedone

Yeah on the fitting only side there's like 45-48mm before the 90 and on the acrylic side theres more like 60mm.


----------



## Jakusonfire

Looks very similar to how mine is installed and it works perfectly for me. To calibrate it i have a king flow meter that i add to the loop by removing the hard-line section from rad to res and using a couple bits of soft tube. Once calibrated i only have to drain that short section and put the hard line back in place.


----------



## hisXLNC

what pwm fan splitter should i get for aquaero 6xt with the following fans:

2 outer case fans = corsair af 140L - 3 pins
3 on top rad = ek vardar = 4 pin
2 on bot rad= ek vardar = 4 pin
1 at back = Scythe "KAZE MARU 2 = 3 pin


----------



## Mega Man

any one you like, the modmytoys will need a trace or two on the pcb cut the swiftech wont but i would personally get one of those two


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hisXLNC*
> 
> what pwm fan splitter should i get for aquaero 6xt with the following fans:
> 
> 2 outer case fans = corsair af 140L - 3 pins
> 3 on top rad = ek vardar = 4 pin
> 2 on bot rad= ek vardar = 4 pin
> 1 at back = Scythe "KAZE MARU 2 = 3 pin


Depends if you want to power the fans direct from the psu or from the aquaero. Obviously for the 3 pin fans you would want a seperate splitter that takes power from the aquero like the low cost modmytoys pwm splitter boards.


----------



## hisXLNC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> Depends if you want to power the fans direct from the psu or from the aquaero. Obviously for the 3 pin fans you would want a seperate splitter that takes power from the aquero like the low cost modmytoys pwm splitter boards.


which would be better to run from psu or aquaero?

if you could possibly link what you recommend that would be great..

edit:

after doing some searching i assume this is the swiftech people are mentioning.

swiftech splitter

would it give the aquaero full control of the 5 fans?

also for my 3 pin fans should i get this

phobya y splitter

or the modmytoys splitter

modymytoys splitter


----------



## jeanspaulo

Hello guys, any one have a workaround to get rid off the annoying noise that the Flow sensor does?


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jeanspaulo*
> 
> Hello guys, any one have a workaround to get rid off the annoying noise that the Flow sensor does?


which flow sensor? the high flow? If so Shoggy can provide you instructions of how to open and check if everything is in place. For warranty purposes is better if you contact him directly.


----------



## Ironsmack

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hisXLNC*
> 
> which would be better to run from psu or aquaero?
> 
> if you could possibly link what you recommend that would be great..
> 
> edit:
> 
> after doing some searching i assume this is the swiftech people are mentioning.
> 
> swiftech splitter
> 
> would it give the aquaero full control of the 5 fans?
> 
> also for my 3 pin fans should i get this
> 
> phobya y splitter
> 
> or the modmytoys splitter
> 
> modymytoys splitter


Your 3 pin fans need a 3 pin extension and its powered from the Aquaero.

Your 4 pin need a 4 pin splitter. That splitter needs a 12v source and its hooked up to the PSU and RPM reading to the Aquaero.


----------



## hisXLNC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ironsmack*
> 
> Your 3 pin fans need a 3 pin extension and its powered from the Aquaero.
> 
> Your 4 pin need a 4 pin splitter. That splitter needs a 12v source and its hooked up to the PSU and RPM reading to the Aquaero.


so this one for the 3 pin

also for my 3 pin fans should i get this

phobya y splitter

and the swiftech for my 4 pin fans that i connect to the psu and the aquaero?


----------



## Ironsmack

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hisXLNC*
> 
> so this one for the 3 pin
> 
> also for my 3 pin fans should i get this
> 
> phobya y splitter


Yes those. I don't use them - this is the one i use. I've had good experience with Darkside cables in general.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hisXLNC*
> 
> and the swiftech for my 4 pin fans that i connect to the psu and the aquaero?


Yup, you got it


----------



## hisXLNC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ironsmack*
> 
> Yes those. I don't use them - this is the one i use. I've had good experience with Darkside cables in general.
> Yup, you got it


arent the aquaero 6xt fan headers 4 pin though?


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hisXLNC*
> 
> so this one for the 3 pin
> 
> also for my 3 pin fans should i get this
> 
> phobya y splitter
> 
> and the swiftech for my 4 pin fans that i connect to the psu and the aquaero?


What to use all comes down to preference and how you want the wiring arranged in the back of the pc. A powered splitter will normally give you slightly higher fan speeds because there isn't the voltage drop you get direct from Aquaero.

For a powered pwm splitter I recommend the Silverstone cpf04 I think it's called. Really compact and flat headers instead of vertical.

For the 3 pin fans you can use the non powered modmytoys pwm splitter boards or the simple wire multi fan splitters. It all works the same.


----------



## hisXLNC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> What to use all comes down to preference and how you want the wiring arranged in the back of the pc. A powered splitter will normally give you slightly higher fan speeds because there isn't the voltage drop you get direct from Aquaero.
> 
> For a powered pwm splitter I recommend the Silverstone cpf04 I think it's called. Really compact and flat headers instead of vertical.
> 
> For the 3 pin fans you can use the non powered modmytoys pwm splitter boards or the simple wire multi fan splitters. It all works the same.


so its fine plugging the 3 pin modmytoys to the 4 pin aquaero fan header? i wont lose functionality?


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hisXLNC*
> 
> so its fine plugging the 3 pin modmytoys to the 4 pin aquaero fan header? i wont lose functionality?


No, i an referring to the pwm boards. The 4 pin ones. They work just the same with 3 pin fans because the power comes from the aquaero.
The 3 pin versions work just the same, i just recon the 4 pin ones are more versatile for the money.

These are my faves

Unpowered ... Good for both pwm and 3 pin fans.
http://www.performance-pcs.com/modmytoys-4-pin-pwm-power-distribution-pcb-8-way-block.html

Powered
http://www.performance-pcs.com/silverstone-cpf04-1-to-8-pwm-fan-fub-black.html


----------



## hisXLNC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> No, i an referring to the pwm boards. The 4 pin ones. They work just the same with 3 pin fans because the power comes from the aquaero.
> The 3 pin versions work just the same, i just recon the 4 pin ones are more versatile for the money.
> 
> These are my faves
> 
> Unpowered ... Good for both pwm and 3 pin fans.
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/modmytoys-4-pin-pwm-power-distribution-pcb-8-way-block.html
> 
> Powered
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/silverstone-cpf04-1-to-8-pwm-fan-fub-black.html


so the silverstone could power my 3 pin fans 4 pin fans without loss of functionality?

i mean i can safely plug the 3 pin fans into the 4 pin slots and itll work fine?


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hisXLNC*
> 
> so the silverstone could power my 3 pin fans 4 pin fans without loss of functionality?
> 
> i mean i can safely plug the 3 pin fans into the 4 pin slots and itll work fine?


No, no. Of course not. Only unpowered boards will work with 3 pin fans because the outer comes from the aquaero so the voltage can be reduced.
Powered splitters get 12v direct from the psu so the aquaero can't reduce the voltage and 3 pin fans will run at full speed.


----------



## hisXLNC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> No, no. Of course not. Only unpowered boards will work with 3 pin fans because the outer comes from the aquaero so the voltage can be reduced.
> Powered splitters get 12v direct from the psu so the aquaero can't reduce the voltage and 3 pin fans will run at full speed.


so i should get 1 of each of the ones you linked and ill be good right?

sorry for asking so many questions on this matter. i dont want to have to pay for shipping twice to my country because i forgot something


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hisXLNC*
> 
> so i should get 1 of each of the ones you linked and ill be good right?
> 
> sorry for asking so many questions on this matter. i dont want to have to pay for shipping twice to my country because i forgot something


Yeah sure, those ones will work.. 3 pin fans on the modmytoys and 4 pin fans on the silverstone.
Be sure to grab a female to female fan cable for the modmytoys board.


----------



## hisXLNC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> Yeah sure, those ones will work.. 3 pin fans on the modmytoys and 4 pin fans on the silverstone.
> Be sure to grab a female to female fan cable for the modmytoys board.


done and done. thanks a lot


----------



## jeanspaulo

Hello guys, any one have a workaround to get rid off the annoying noise that the Flow sensor does?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> which flow sensor? the high flow? If so Shoggy can provide you instructions of how to open and check if everything is in place. For warranty purposes is better if you contact him directly.


Hello Gabrielzm, yes, its the High Flow this one https://martinsliquidlab.files.wordpress.com/2012/01/aquacomputerflowmeter011.jpg. it has a very anoying "ticking" noise. I think its not a warranty case (I hope so kkkk ) .


----------



## Jakusonfire

Mounting it flat sometimes makes a difference.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jeanspaulo*
> 
> Hello guys, any one have a workaround to get rid off the annoying noise that the Flow sensor does?
> Hello Gabrielzm, yes, its the High Flow this one https://martinsliquidlab.files.wordpress.com/2012/01/aquacomputerflowmeter011.jpg. it has a very anoying "ticking" noise. I think its not a warranty case (I hope so kkkk ) .


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> Mounting it flat sometimes makes a difference.


This^^ But is is also a warranty question because I can tell you how to try to fix it, since I experienced the same and SHoggy sent me instructions to open it and see if can be fixed. I could pass along to you but it would be better if you hit him so that he will be aware you would be opening. But first try to mount it with the faceplate/cables up.


----------



## jeanspaulo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> This^^ But is is also a warranty question because I can tell you how to try to fix it, since I experienced the same and SHoggy sent me instructions to open it and see if can be fixed. I could pass along to you but it would be better if you hit him so that he will be aware you would be opening. But first try to mount it with the faceplate/cables up.


I send Shoggy a PM, I'm waiting him to answer. If I have to mount it faceplate somewhere will be a challenge to find the place to put it but to me its less difficult then RMA because I'm from brazil. I hope opening it solve the problem of the noise, I found the problem testing it out side the thread, I'll make a test with it fixed on a flat area but the noise appears to be made by the piece that rotates when the water pass through.
The noise its exactly like this https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sZtORZqgOfY


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jeanspaulo*
> 
> I send Shoggy a PM, I'm waiting him to answer. If I have to mount it faceplate somewhere will be a challenge to find the place to put it but to me its less difficult then RMA because I'm from brazil. I hope opening it solve the problem of the noise, I found the problem testing it out side the thread, I'll make a test with it fixed on a flat area but the noise appears to be made by the piece that rotates when the water pass through.
> The noise its exactly like this https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sZtORZqgOfY


Fala Jean







The noise might go away if you mount like this:



so the silver/aluminun faceplate will be facing up. Yes, the solution is to open it and hammer the impeller on the shaft. But wait until Shoggy reply to you.

Notice how in the video the flow meter is mounted sideways...That usually exacerbate the noise.


----------



## ozzy1925

is 297LPH flow ratio is too low for 2xd5 at full speed ? 1 cpu ,2x gpu, 2x480 ut60 +1x240 ut 60, 20-25 90degree fittings


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ozzy1925*
> 
> is 297LPH flow ratio is too low for 2xd5 at full speed ? 1 cpu ,2x gpu, 2x480 ut60 +1x240 ut 60, 20-25 90degree fittings


sounds about right: 1.31 GPM.


----------



## zerophase

This is for the Aquaero 6 xt.

Anyone know what to plug into the two 2 pin headers labeled pwm, right next to the 4 pin pwm headers?

One of the firmware updates disabled the Aquabus control function, if I remember correctly. So, is the Aquabus low and high headers just regular pwm headers now? I'm trying to figure out how to attach my pwm controlled dual pump, while keeping each pump on a separate header, and using 3 of the 4 fan headers for controlling different groupings of fans. (case fans, and each radiator fan being controlled separately)


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zerophase*
> 
> This is for the Aquaero 6 xt.
> 
> Anyone know what to plug into the two 2 pin headers labeled pwm, right next to the 4 pin pwm headers?
> 
> One of the firmware updates disabled the Aquabus control function, if I remember correctly. So, is the Aquabus low and high headers just regular pwm headers now? I'm trying to figure out how to attach my pwm controlled dual pump, while keeping each pump on a separate header, and using 3 of the 4 fan headers for controlling different groupings of fans. (case fans, and each radiator fan being controlled separately)


Which PWM dual pump is it . . .

If it is PWM, It will need a fan header.

The new firmware does away with the aquabus low, but the Aquabus high is for other compatible devices, NOT a PWM pump

The PWM 2 pin headers are 12V outputs for dimming control of an LED


----------



## zerophase

Thebpump
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Which PWM dual pump is it . . .
> 
> If it is PWM, It will need a fan header.
> 
> The new firmware does away with the aquabus low, but the Aquabus high is for other compatible devices, NOT a PWM pump
> 
> The PWM 2 pin headers are 12V outputs for dimming control of an LED


The pump is a EK-XTOP Dual DDC 3.2 PWM.


----------



## Mega Man

what diva said,

what i would recomend to you is either MAKE a cable like this, or use THIS cable

it allows you to use 1 channel to CONTROL the pump, but you can monitor the rpms using a header on your motherboard


----------



## zerophase

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> what diva said,
> 
> what i would recomend to you is either MAKE a cable like this, or use THIS cable
> 
> it allows you to use 1 channel to CONTROL the pump, but you can monitor the rpms using a header on your motherboard


I'm just worried the signal would be lost, if one pump fails.


----------



## Mega Man

with that cable you can monitor it
one header on your mobo and one header on the aq6, that is how i monitor my pumps ( i use 4 in a build )


----------



## hisXLNC

done and done. thanks a lot








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jeanspaulo*
> 
> I send Shoggy a PM, I'm waiting him to answer. If I have to mount it faceplate somewhere will be a challenge to find the place to put it but to me its less difficult then RMA because I'm from brazil. I hope opening it solve the problem of the noise, I found the problem testing it out side the thread, I'll make a test with it fixed on a flat area but the noise appears to be made by the piece that rotates when the water pass through.
> The noise its exactly like this https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sZtORZqgOfY


last pm i sent shoggy he said he was going on vacation. not sure if he checks his inbox while on vacation. maybe contact their support just in case though


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ozzy1925*
> 
> is 297LPH flow ratio is too low for 2xd5 at full speed ? 1 cpu ,2x gpu, 2x480 ut60 +1x240 ut 60, 20-25 90degree fittings


That is actually quite high. It is very difficult to get much higher than that in a real loop.


----------



## Mega Man

maybe with d5s !










( seriously i have quad ddcs that i bet would push that )


----------



## zerophase

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> with that cable you can monitor it
> one header on your mobo and one header on the aq6, that is how i monitor my pumps ( i use 4 in a build )


I see it now. Both pwm signals cross, with one cable serving as a fall back.


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zerophase*
> 
> I see it now. Both pwm signals cross, with one cable serving as a fall back.


No not quite, you have two separate speed signals from the pumps but only one can be monitored by a single header so one signal goes to the aquaero and the other goes to the motherboard. Both will be the same, is just a way to ensure they are both running. Otherwise, with other splitter cables you choose a pump to be monitored.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> maybe with d5s !
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ( seriously i have quad ddcs that i bet would push that )


Quad pumps would qualify as difficult, but even doubling pump power with 4 pumps will only increase flow by about 50% or about 2gpm


----------



## Mega Man

But still an increase


----------



## DanBr

Brand new owner, first water cooled build.

Aquaero 6 XT
Aquacomputer flow rate sensor mps flow 400
Aquacomputer D5 pump with USB- and aquabus interface
Aquacomputer temperature sensor inline
Farbwerk LED controller

First how to connect.
I have read the manual and much of this forum but *I am still lost.*
To correctly connect these parts to the AQ6 there is something about *assigning different addresses* via USB

How do I power up these to do that prior to installing Windows etc?

Does the Pump and the Flow Sensor connect via a "Y" cable to the (1) aquabus connection on the AQ6

Once I get it correctly connected, I will throw myself on your mercy again to help with simple fan and pump curves

Thanks
Dan


----------



## tCoLL

Aquaero 5 LT owner here. Anyone having issues with running aquasuite at startup? I've tried changing the setting by running the aquasuite as admin, as well as uninstalling/reinstalling. Using windows 8.1.


----------



## InfoSeeker

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DanBr*
> 
> Brand new owner, first water cooled build.
> 
> Aquaero 6 XT
> Aquacomputer flow rate sensor mps flow 400
> Aquacomputer D5 pump with USB- and aquabus interface
> Aquacomputer temperature sensor inline
> Farbwerk LED controller
> 
> First how to connect.
> I have read the manual and much of this forum but *I am still lost.*
> To correctly connect these parts to the AQ6 there is something about *assigning different addresses* via USB
> 
> How do I power up these to do that prior to installing Windows etc?
> 
> Does the Pump and the Flow Sensor connect via a "Y" cable to the (1) aquabus connection on the AQ6
> 
> Once I get it correctly connected, I will throw myself on your mercy again to help with simple fan and pump curves
> 
> Thanks
> Dan


You must have the free aqausuite 2015-6 installed to assign the device bus addresses, even if temporary.
The bus address assignment will survive if the device is disconnected and then reinstalled in the new build.

You also have to connect to the device with a USB connector. If you do not have an internal USB port available on the temporary computer (laptop?), you can use something like this or that.

Then, in aquasuite, navigate to the "System" tabs for the devices for which you want to set the aquabus addresses.


You can use this Y-connector to connect both MPS devices to the AQ6 high aquabus port.


----------



## Ironsmack

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tCoLL*
> 
> Aquaero 5 LT owner here. Anyone having issues with running aquasuite at startup? I've tried changing the setting by running the aquasuite as admin, as well as uninstalling/reinstalling. Using windows 8.1.


Well, what's the problem?


----------



## electro2u

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tCoLL*
> 
> Aquaero 5 LT owner here. Anyone having issues with running aquasuite at startup? I've tried changing the setting by running the aquasuite as admin, as well as uninstalling/reinstalling. Using windows 8.1.


You do definitely have to start as admin to set it to start with windows. There is a check box for the option under settings


----------



## DanBr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *InfoSeeker*
> 
> You must have the free aqausuite 2015-6 installed to assign the device bus addresses, even if temporary.
> The bus address assignment will survive if the device is disconnected and then reinstalled in the new build.
> 
> You also have to connect to the device with a USB connector. If you do not have an internal USB port available on the temporary computer (laptop?), you can use something like this or that.
> 
> Then, in aquasuite, navigate to the "System" tabs for the devices for which you want to set the aquabus addresses.
> 
> 
> You can use this Y-connector to connect both MPS devices to the AQ6 high aquabus port.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *InfoSeeker*
> 
> You must have the free aqausuite 2015-6 installed to assign the device bus addresses, even if temporary.
> The bus address assignment will survive if the device is disconnected and then reinstalled in the new build.
> 
> You also have to connect to the device with a USB connector. If you do not have an internal USB port available on the temporary computer (laptop?), you can use something like this or that.
> 
> Then, in aquasuite, navigate to the "System" tabs for the devices for which you want to set the aquabus addresses.
> 
> 
> You can use this Y-connector to connect both MPS devices to the AQ6 high aquabus port.


Ok, I am assuming the Aquaero 6 needs to have the 12v molex connected and the "y" cable from the (2) devices to the high port
and the pump can be connected *only* with USB and not molex power (because it would start spinning without any water) and I can make the assignments.
Same with the MSP 400, just connect to Aquaero via "Y" and USB to motherboard of host computer

Thanks,
Dan


----------



## InfoSeeker

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DanBr*
> 
> Ok, I am assuming the Aquaero 6 needs to have the 12v molex connected and the "y" cable from the (2) devices to the high port
> and the pump can be connected *only* with USB and not molex power (because it would start spinning without any water) and I can make the assignments.
> Same with the MSP 400, just connect to Aquaero via "Y" and USB to motherboard of host computer
> 
> Thanks,
> Dan


No, you do NOT need to connect the USB pump or the flow meter to the aquaero to set the bus address, just the USB connection to the computer running the aquasuite app.

EDIT:
If you want to configure the pumop to run at a low power for filling at start-up, you can set that also with just the USB connection.

And if you calibrate the flow meter with the USB connection, you will not need to have a USB connection when installing in the system later, for either device.


----------



## DanBr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *InfoSeeker*
> 
> No, you do NOT need to connect the USB pump or the flow meter to the aquaero to set the bus address, just the USB connection to the computer running the aquasuite app.
> 
> EDIT:
> If you want to configure the pumop to run at a low power for filling at start-up, you can set that also with just the USB connection.
> 
> And if you calibrate the flow meter with the USB connection, you will not need to have a USB connection when installing in the system later, for either device.


Thanks again,
I thought the assignments would be saved in the Aquaero, not the devices.
I would like to at some point calibrate the flow meter, but I might just go with the stock calibrations for 10mm id (3/8") rigid tubing, because what I read seemed like I need some other flow meter to calibrate with.

If you could just suggest some basic fan and pump curves, I would appreciate it.
By "filling at startup", what percentage would you recommend and then is the setting held only to that speed until you change it to your pump curve later?
Dan


----------



## tCoLL

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> You do definitely have to start as admin to set it to start with windows. There is a check box for the option under settings


Yes...I've done that. But its not running on startup still.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ironsmack*
> 
> Well, what's the problem?


"Anyone having issues with running aquasuite at startup?"


----------



## InfoSeeker

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DanBr*
> 
> Thanks again,
> I thought the assignments would be saved in the Aquaero, not the devices.
> I would like to at some point calibrate the flow meter, but I might just go with the stock calibrations for 10mm id (3/8") rigid tubing, because what I read seemed like I need some other flow meter to calibrate with.
> 
> If you could just suggest some basic fan and pump curves, I would appreciate it.
> By "filling at startup", what percentage would you recommend and then is the setting held only to that speed until you change it to your pump curve later?
> Dan


The stock calibration is what I meant... it requires a USB connection. You cannot calibrate the flow sensor from the aquaero.

It is simple procedure:
- select the "Configuration" tab under the MPS Flow Sensor
- select the "Device" from the drop-down list
- check "Automatic calibration of zero flow value"
- select the "Flow 400" option from the drop-down and the inner diameter tubing size and click "Import calibration data:
Boom, you're done


EDIT: Don't forget to click the floppy disk icon on the MPS flow sensor tab to save the settings to the device.

My controllers:


I have dual D5 USB/aquabus pump and started them out about 30% power, then I increased the Preset value controller until I hit may target of about 200 l/h. I used a Preset value controller as I do not change the pumps once I attain the target.


----------



## Ironsmack

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tCoLL*
> 
> "Anyone having issues with running aquasuite at startup?"


Oh sorry, i missed that part. Is your user an admin?

How about creating another user admin and see if it runs on that?


----------



## Nornam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DanBr*
> 
> If you could just suggest some basic fan and pump curves, I would appreciate it.
> By "filling at startup", what percentage would you recommend and then is the setting held only to that speed until you change it to your pump curve later?
> Dan


Eh up Dan... Have a look HERE I did a guide a long while back about doing setting up & curve controls e.t.c. Now although these guides are for the Aquaero 5 model most of it still stands for the AQ 6 as well so if you follow my guide you should be able to suss things maybe alittle better & get a hopefully a bit of assistance on setting curve controls e.t.c on this great unit









Go to the Aquaero 5 Post & you'll need to scroll down quite a bit through the review part but later on in the post are a couple of short guides taking you various settings & set-ups..... Hope it helps







...

Nam.....


----------



## DanBr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *InfoSeeker*
> 
> The stock calibration is what I meant... it requires a USB connection. You cannot calibrate the flow sensor from the aquaero.
> 
> It is simple procedure:
> - select the "Configuration" tab under the MPS Flow Sensor
> - select the "Device" from the drop-down list
> - check "Automatic calibration of zero flow value"
> - select the "Flow 400" option from the drop-down and the inner diameter tubing size and click "Import calibration data:
> Boom, you're done
> 
> 
> EDIT: Don't forget to click the floppy disk icon on the MPS flow sensor tab to save the settings to the device.
> 
> My controllers:
> 
> 
> I have dual D5 USB/aquabus pump and started them out about 30% power, then I increased the Preset value controller until I hit may target of about 200 l/h. I used a Preset value controller as I do not change the pumps once I attain the target.


Thanks, I will have to stare at the curves a bit before the fog lifts.
What are the LED's for?
I thought I needed a Farbwerk for LED's?
Are they running strips of LED's in your case?
Dan


----------



## DanBr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nornam*
> 
> Eh up Dan... Have a look HERE I did a guide a long while back about doing setting up & curve controls e.t.c. Now although these guides are for the Aquaero 5 model most of it still stands for the AQ 6 as well so if you follow my guide you should be able to suss things maybe alittle better & get a hopefully a bit of assistance on setting curve controls e.t.c on this great unit
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Nam.....


Thanks a lot
I will read it.
There are a lot of links on your forum, so I think you mean this one.

My Aquaero 5 Review & Guide
&
BASIC HOW TO SET UP GUIDE

Dan


----------



## Nornam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DanBr*
> 
> Thanks a lot
> I will read it.
> There are a lot of links on your forum, so I think you mean this one.
> 
> My Aquaero 5 Review & Guide
> &
> BASIC HOW TO SET UP GUIDE
> 
> Dan


You replied while I was editing my post to tell you to follow my link & then click the AQUAERO 5 post at the top of the forum page, Then scroll through the review bit to reach where I put the curve guides e.t.c later in the same post









Nam...


----------



## InfoSeeker

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DanBr*
> 
> Thanks, I will have to stare at the curves a bit before the fog lifts.
> What are the LED's for?
> I thought I needed a Farbwerk for LED's?
> Are they running strips of LED's in your case?
> Dan


I have a single RGB LED that I have poking out below the AQ6 on my Gigant 1680... it is there to give an indication of the exit water temp of the rad.
No fancy-pants farbwerks yet









For the fan curve controller, just click on automatic, set a fan stop temp (if you stop fans) at the left side, and a temp value when you want the fans at 100% at the right side.
Boom, done









Oh, and you have to select a source for your temperature monitoring and the add the fans you want controlled.


----------



## InfoSeeker

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nornam*
> 
> You replied while I was editing my post to tell you to follow my link & then click the AQUAERO 5 post at the top of the forum page, Then scroll through the review bit to reach where I put the curve guides e.t.c later in the same post
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Nam...


Hey Nam, nice to see you again... all going well I hope?


----------



## Nornam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *InfoSeeker*
> 
> Hey Nam, nice to see you again... all going well I hope?


Yo Info







... You too mate...

Not doing to bad at the moment cheers, Just Started some new Chemotherapy last week as the one I was on earlier didn't agree with me at all & made me very very Ill, But so far so good with this new one although it's only been my second session of this new Chemo I need to take this one every week instead of every 2 or 3 weeks like the other Chemo I was on







...

So... Yeh, I'm Still stanking on & taking the Medicines & so far so good, Gotta hope now that this Chemo will help to ZAP the little nasty that is in my neck on my spine







...

Nam....


----------



## InfoSeeker

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nornam*
> 
> Yo Info
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ... You too mate...
> 
> Not doing to bad at the moment cheers, Just Started some new Chemotherapy last week as the one I was on earlier didn't agree with me at all & made me very very Ill, But so far so good with this new one although it's only been my second session of this new Chemo I need to take this one every week instead of every 2 or 3 weeks like the other Chemo I was on
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ...
> 
> So... Yeh, I'm Still stanking on & taking the Medicines & so far so good, Gotta hope now that this Chemo will help to ZAP the little nasty that is in my neck on my spine
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ...
> 
> Nam....


I know it's a hard fight... thoughts and prayers with you.


----------



## electro2u

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tCoLL*
> 
> Yes...I've done that. But its not running on startup still.
> "Anyone having issues with running aquasuite at startup?"


you might try going to the actual target exe and put start with admin as default in properties


----------



## tCoLL

tried that. Its set to always run as admin


----------



## InfoSeeker

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tCoLL*
> 
> tried that. Its set to always run as admin


Is the Start aquasuite with Windows option checked and it doesn't start, or are you having trouble checking the option?


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DanBr*
> 
> Brand new owner, first water cooled build.
> 
> Aquaero 6 XT
> Aquacomputer flow rate sensor mps flow 400
> Aquacomputer D5 pump with USB- and aquabus interface
> Aquacomputer temperature sensor inline
> Farbwerk LED controller
> 
> First how to connect.
> I have read the manual and much of this forum but *I am still lost.*
> To correctly connect these parts to the AQ6 there is something about *assigning different addresses* via USB
> 
> How do I power up these to do that prior to installing Windows etc?
> 
> Does the Pump and the Flow Sensor connect via a "Y" cable to the (1) aquabus connection on the AQ6
> 
> Once I get it correctly connected, I will throw myself on your mercy again to help with simple fan and pump curves
> 
> Thanks
> Dan


There is no need to. Just build and connect everything and it will run at full speed till you install all the software and make changes.


----------



## DanBr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> There is no need to. Just build and connect everything and it will run at full speed till you install all the software and make changes.


Thank you,
Dan


----------



## DanBr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nornam*
> 
> You replied while I was editing my post to tell you to follow my link & then click the AQUAERO 5 post at the top of the forum page, Then scroll through the review bit to reach where I put the curve guides e.t.c later in the same post
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Nam...


Thanks


----------



## DanBr

May I ask about the temperature probes in the Aq6?
I will be using (1) inline water temp sensor in the loop.

Where do you suggest placing them in and around the Mother board?
How do you attach the probe end to where ever you want it to be?
The "virtual" sensors, what are they reading?
Any other suggestions appreciated.

Dan


----------



## InfoSeeker

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> There is no need to. Just build and connect everything and it will run at full speed till you install all the software and make changes.


That somewhat depends on if he wants to leave the USB cables connected and how difficult it is to add/remove them to the installed components.


----------



## tCoLL

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *InfoSeeker*
> 
> Is the Start aquasuite with Windows option checked and it doesn't start, or are you having trouble checking the option?


The option is checked and doesn't start


----------



## tCoLL

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DanBr*
> 
> May I ask about the temperature probes in the Aq6?
> I will be using (1) inline water temp sensor in the loop.
> 
> Where do you suggest placing them in and around the Mother board?
> How do you attach the probe end to where ever you want it to be?
> The "virtual" sensors, what are they reading?
> Any other suggestions appreciated.
> 
> Dan


an "inline" temperate sensor is one actually touching water http://static.scan.co.uk/images/products/1182457-a.jpg

I think you are referring to the ones that came in the package, which are external temps and aren't that great for getting temps. I use one near my front intake to get an "ambient" temp which I compare with an inline sensor to get my ambient - water delta which is what I use to control my fan speed.

the virtual sensors use input from an external piece of software (I use AIDA64) to gather the onboard temp sensors on your hardware which will be much more accurate than the sensors in the aquaero package.


----------



## InfoSeeker

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tCoLL*
> 
> The option is checked and doesn't start


I don't know why the start at win start is fail, but can make 2 suggestions:

1. contact aquacomputer at [email protected]
2. manually place a link to aquasuite in the windows start folder - tutorial


----------



## DanBr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tCoLL*
> 
> an "inline" temperate sensor is one actually touching water http://static.scan.co.uk/images/products/1182457-a.jpg
> 
> I think you are referring to the ones that came in the package, which are external temps and aren't that great for getting temps. I use one near my front intake to get an "ambient" temp which I compare with an inline sensor to get my ambient - water delta which is what I use to control my fan speed.
> 
> the virtual sensors use input from an external piece of software (I use AIDA64) to gather the onboard temp sensors on your hardware which will be much more accurate than the sensors in the aquaero package.


Yes, you are correct. I understand the the inline will be in the loop and I was wondering about the other sensors that come with the A6. I will probably do as you and get one for ambient air to get the delta. I did not know if folks were putting the others at different places on the MB. I will download the virtual AIDA64 also
Thanks
Dan


----------



## Mega Man

The other sensors work fine for air temps.

It really matters what you want.

I like to know air temp coming into my case and leaving and other key areas.


----------



## zerophase

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> The other sensors work fine for air temps.
> 
> It really matters what you want.
> 
> I like to know air temp coming into my case and leaving and other key areas.


If I tape the sensors that come with the Aquaero to the side of a radiator would it be an alright solution?


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zerophase*
> 
> If I tape the sensors that come with the Aquaero to the side of a radiator would it be an alright solution?


No, not the side. you need the sensor touching metal that is in contact with the internal fluid so the end tanks are the best place, the side panels don't touch fluid. Also it is best to have no paint in the way according to some others who have done it. I use film sensors on the end tanks of my EK rads and it works better than water sensor fittings because it has less temp change inertia.


----------



## stanneveld

Bought myself a nice plexi face plate for my Aquero5 makes it look so mutch nicer when it's flush with the front plate.
All i realy need now is find a way to make the screws flat with the front plate, it looks weird compaired to my poweradjust front plate


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stanneveld*
> 
> Bought myself a nice plexi face plate for my Aquero5 makes it look so mutch nicer when it's flush with the front plate.
> All i realy need now is find a way to make the screws flat with the front plate, it looks weird compaired to my poweradjust front plate


I replaced all the screws on my aquacomp gear with black ones. For the front of the Aq pro I used m3 x 5mms button hex head. It's not quite flat but is much less prominent than the square socket heads. It's a bit easier on the XT in this respect because it uses counter sunk heads. I thought about drilling the pro to take counter sinks but wasn't sure if it was too risky.

I did the same on my flow meters and stuff too. Looks great.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

So where do I hook up the cables for the 400 Flow Sensor?

I am just not understanding this.

TCO


----------



## Wolfsbora

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> So where do I hook up the cables for the 400 Flow Sensor?
> 
> I am just not understanding this.
> 
> TCO


I took this right before I redid my loop so that I could remember how to set it up:

Not sure if it helps you. Basically you have the USB cable that you have to plug in to set it up and then I have the Aquabus cable hooked up to it as well.

Edit: The USB cable is the top cable. Next to it is an external temperature sensor cable. Underneath it is the Aquabus cable. Be sure to plug them in so that the colors are oriented as you seen in the pic.


----------



## sinnedone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> So where do I hook up the cables for the 400 Flow Sensor?
> 
> I am just not understanding this.
> 
> TCO


You just need to hook up the usb and the aquabus cable. The usb goes straight to your motherboard and can be disconnected after first set up. The aquabus stays connected to the aquaero.

Well that is unless you plan to use the flow sensor stand alone. How are you planning to have it used/connected?


----------



## DanBr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> No, not the side. you need the sensor touching metal that is in contact with the internal fluid so the end tanks are the best place, the side panels don't touch fluid. Also it is best to have no paint in the way according to some others who have done it. I use film sensors on the end tanks of my EK rads and it works better than water sensor fittings because it has less temp change inertia.


What do you mean by film sensor?
And are saying that the film sensor works better than one of these?
http://www.performance-pcs.com/aquacomputer-temperature-sensor-inner-outer-thread-g1-4.html
and if so where do you get film sensors?
Thanks
Dan


----------



## Wolfsbora

This is the film sensor he is referring to:

It's used as an external sensor.


----------



## Jakusonfire

Yeah, just the standard sensors. They work better for me because instead of the exact same sensor (that is all water sensors are) in a water sensor fitting measuring the temp of a small brass fitting with a small surface area contacting the coolant, the sensor is measuring the temp of a thin brass plate with a large surface area in contact with coolant.

As water temp changes the sensor on the tank changes faster than the sensor on the small fitting. For steady temps there is no real difference and of course sensor fittings can be placed mostly wherever you want them.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wolfsbora*
> 
> I took this right before I redid my loop so that I could remember how to set it up:
> 
> Not sure if it helps you. Basically you have the USB cable that you have to plug in to set it up and then I have the Aquabus cable hooked up to it as well.
> 
> Edit: The USB cable is the top cable. Next to it is an external temperature sensor cable. Underneath it is the Aquabus cable. Be sure to plug them in so that the colors are oriented as you seen in the pic.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sinnedone*
> 
> You just need to hook up the usb and the aquabus cable. The usb goes straight to your motherboard and can be disconnected after first set up. The aquabus stays connected to the aquaero.
> 
> Well that is unless you plan to use the flow sensor stand alone. How are you planning to have it used/connected?


Pretty much where am I hooking the cables up. That is the question. + Rep to Both Though









TCO


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Pretty much where am I hooking the cables up. That is the question. + Rep to Both Though
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> TCO


Jut pay attention to the orientation. Black is ground red is current in the USB cable. The same on the mb USB. The ground goes on the part of the USB 2 that have 4 pins/5pins (missing pin) while the red goes opposite to the missing pin.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Jut pay attention to the orientation. Black is ground red is current in the USB cable. The same on the mb USB. The ground goes on the part of the USB 2 that have 4 pins/5pins (missing pin) while the red goes opposite to the missing pin.


So the cables usually plug into the bottom of the Motherboard?

TCO


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> So the cables usually plug into the bottom of the Motherboard?
> 
> TCO


whatever USB 2 port you have available. Here on the grey matter. Two MPS (white and black cables) connected to a usb 2 port:


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> whatever USB 2 port you have available. Here on the grey matter. Two MPS (white and black cables) connected to a usb 2 port:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Rep!

TCO


----------



## DanBr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> Yeah, just the standard sensors. They work better for me because instead of the exact same sensor (that is all water sensors are) in a water sensor fitting measuring the temp of a small brass fitting with a small surface area contacting the coolant, the sensor is measuring the temp of a thin brass plate with a large surface area in contact with coolant.
> 
> As water temp changes the sensor on the tank changes faster than the sensor on the small fitting. For steady temps there is no real difference and of course sensor fittings can be placed mostly wherever you want them.


Where do you purchase those sensors?
thanks
Dan


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DanBr*
> 
> Where do you purchase those sensors?
> thanks
> Dan


you get 4 of it on the Aquaero box. Some MB come with it and you can order from almost any computer shop even amazon. Just look for a 10 ohms thermistor.


----------



## tblake

I am having the same problem as tCoLL - completely unable to get aquasuite to launch with Windows. I have tried all options suggested to no avail (option in aquasuite to launch with Windows checked, running .EXE file with administrator rights via Properties window, and including shortcut to .EXE file in Startup folder). I am running Windows 8.1 Pro x64. Additionally, aquasuite is extremely buggy on my system and crashes constantly. Are there any known incompatibilities with aquasuite? At the moment I am only testing my aquaero 6 XT with 1 fan (Corsair SP120 PWM Quiet Ed) and one of the supplied temp sensors. The aquaero 6 XT seems like a great product but I am disillusioned by my experience with the software so far.

Also, does anyone know the Windows 10 compatibility status of aquasuite?

Thanks!

Tom


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tblake*
> 
> I am having the same problem as tCoLL - completely unable to get aquasuite to launch with Windows. I have tried all options suggested to no avail (option in aquasuite to launch with Windows checked, running .EXE file with administrator rights via Properties window, and including shortcut to .EXE file in Startup folder). I am running Windows 8.1 Pro x64. Additionally, aquasuite is extremely buggy on my system and crashes constantly. Are there any known incompatibilities with aquasuite? At the moment I am only testing my aquaero 6 XT with 1 fan (Corsair SP120 PWM Quiet Ed) and one of the supplied temp sensors. The aquaero 6 XT seems like a great product but I am disillusioned by my experience with the software so far.
> 
> Also, does anyone know the Windows 10 compatibility status of aquasuite?
> 
> Thanks!
> 
> Tom


I would try to uninstall and do a clean install of it. I am running on win 8.1 without any problems.


----------



## DanBr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> you get 4 of it on the Aquaero box. Some MB come with it and you can order from almost any computer shop even amazon. Just look for a 10 ohms thermistor.


Thanks, I did not realize they were the sensors that come with the Aq6. I like that idea and I guess I will not get the sensor that has the water running thru it
Dan


----------



## NE0XY

I'm thinking about adding an RGB LED strip to my case, and since I already have the aquaero, why not the Aquacomputer one?

If I want to controll the strip with the Aquaero/Aquasuite software, is the LED strip+connector cable all I need or do I need to purchase the "farbwerk usb aquabus" aswell?

Link: http://www.aquatuning.se/moddning/led-belysning/19336/aquacomputer-rgb-led-strip-ip67-black-lenght-50cm?c=5485

Also, I will be using two LED strips, so please keep this in consideration


----------



## tblake

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> I would try to uninstall and do a clean install of it. I am running on win 8.1 without any problems.


An uninstall helped with overall stability but I still can't get it to load with Windows 8.1 Pro no matter what I do. I'm not going to troubleshoot too much more with Win10 on the horizon and will just launch manually for now.


----------



## stanneveld

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NE0XY*
> 
> I'm thinking about adding an RGB LED strip to my case, and since I already have the aquaero, why not the Aquacomputer one?
> 
> If I want to controll the strip with the Aquaero/Aquasuite software, is the LED strip+connector cable all I need or do I need to purchase the "farbwerk usb aquabus" aswell?
> 
> Link: http://www.aquatuning.se/moddning/led-belysning/19336/aquacomputer-rgb-led-strip-ip67-black-lenght-50cm?c=5485
> 
> Also, I will be using two LED strips, so please keep this in consideration


You need to Farbwer aquabus controller.
The RGB on the Aquero is just for 1 led and it has a different connector., you cant connect led strips to it.


----------



## NE0XY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stanneveld*
> 
> You need to Farbwer aquabus controller.
> The RGB on the Aquero is just for 1 led and it has a different connector., you cant connect led strips to it.


Thank you =)


----------



## zerophase

It looks like Swiftech PWM fan splitter is going to work for me controlling my dual DDC pumps, for now. The fact that one pump is controlled by a 3 pin connector has me worried I'll lose pwm control, if one pump fails. Also from understanding each pump can pull up to 18 watts, and with the heatsink each channel can support 36 watts. I'm not too crazy about being right on the limit, in case the channel max degrades over time. Could that actually be an issue?

I'm aware it's possible to upgrade up to 8 additional fan control channels. Aquaero Poweradjust can add channels, but lacks pwm control. Is there anyway to add extra pwm channels other than slaving an additional unit to the Aquaero 6 xt? How do I go about making a unit a slave, and does it need to be a 6 xt as well?


----------



## stanneveld

Version 6 has 4 PWM channels, one can use 2 for the two DDC's
Then u have 2 channels left for fans does one need more then 4 pwm








(and yes them germans should make a nice poweradjust thingy that has like 2 PWM channels or so)
Its like silly one has to buy another XT version just to get some PWM chanels.
Since they dont make a "light" version as they did with the version 5....



If you have 2 loops in your system the poweradjust u can hook fans on and it has a FLOW meter connector.
Then u have 2 with the Aquero one could use 2 flow meters to see if bot DDC's are working.
One could even use the RPM sensor connector on the poweradjust and see rpm of the dcc.
While just have them liked to echother by PWM.
Dont know how your system set is set up, and what your are trying to connect


----------



## DanBr

Is there any benefit to have the Farbwerk plugged in to the Aquaero 6 with the aqaubus connection?
If I have it just plugged into the MB via USB, can I still control it from the Aquasuite interface?
Thanks,
Dan


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DanBr*
> 
> Is there any benefit to have the Farbwerk plugged in to the Aquaero 6 with the aqaubus connection?
> *If I have it just plugged into the MB via USB, can I still control it from the Aquasuite interface?
> *Thanks,
> Dan


Yes.

I guess there could be a benefit to having the Farby on the Aquabus if you needed it for a Linux box and had previously set up an Aquaero system using a windows machine to set addresses so that you could migrate it as a system, and then have control via the remote.

You can see the Aquasuite interface to the Farby onscreen when I first got one.


----------



## DanBr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Yes.
> 
> I guess there could be a benefit to having the Farby on the Aquabus if you needed it for a Linux box and had previously set up an Aquaero system using a windows machine to set addresses so that you could migrate it as a system, and then have control via the remote.
> 
> You can see the Aquasuite interface to the Farby onscreen when I first got one.


Ok, so yours is not hooked up thru the Aquaero, that will be good enough for me. One less thing to figure
Dan


----------



## zerophase

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stanneveld*
> 
> Version 6 has 4 PWM channels, one can use 2 for the two DDC's
> Then u have 2 channels left for fans does one need more then 4 pwm
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (and yes them germans should make a nice poweradjust thingy that has like 2 PWM channels or so)
> Its like silly one has to buy another XT version just to get some PWM chanels.
> Since they dont make a "light" version as they did with the version 5....
> 
> 
> 
> If you have 2 loops in your system the poweradjust u can hook fans on and it has a FLOW meter connector.
> Then u have 2 with the Aquero one could use 2 flow meters to see if bot DDC's are working.
> One could even use the RPM sensor connector on the poweradjust and see rpm of the dcc.
> While just have them liked to echother by PWM.
> Dont know how your system set is set up, and what your are trying to connect


The fans on my top radiator are controlled separately from the bottom Radiator. Then I keep my case fans on a separate channel, and finally I have my 2 pumps.


----------



## Archea47

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zerophase*
> 
> It looks like Swiftech PWM fan splitter is going to work for me controlling my dual DDC pumps, for now. The fact that one pump is controlled by a 3 pin connector has me worried I'll lose pwm control, if one pump fails. Also from understanding each pump can pull up to 18 watts, and with the heatsink each channel can support 36 watts. I'm not too crazy about being right on the limit, in case the channel max degrades over time. Could that actually be an issue?


I don't believe you would lose PWM control - you still have the 4th (PWM) wire. The PWM fan splitter only takes RPM from one of the headers on the splitter, which means you will only get RPM from one connected device at a time.

Also for power for the pumps - are you looking at powered PWM splitters? That way power comes either from SATA or 4pin Molex connector and only pins 3 (RPM) and 4 (PWM) go to the Aquaero


----------



## zerophase

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Archea47*
> 
> I don't believe you would lose PWM control - you still have the 4th (PWM) wire. The PWM fan splitter only takes RPM from one of the headers on the splitter, which means you will only get RPM from one connected device at a time.
> 
> Also for power for the pumps - are you looking at powered PWM splitters? That way power comes either from SATA or 4pin Molex connector and only pins 3 (RPM) and 4 (PWM) go to the Aquaero


Yeah, I have 4 pin molex on each pump. I had thought the Aquaero would still send a lot of power to run the pumps. I guess I'll be fine having them on 1 header then.

For the swiftech splitter, do I even need to plug the 3 pin header in if the pwm header handles it anyways?


----------



## Archea47

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zerophase*
> 
> Yeah, I have 4 pin molex on each pump. I had thought the Aquaero would still send a lot of power to run the pumps. I guess I'll be fine having them on 1 header then.
> 
> For the swiftech splitter, do I even need to plug the 3 pin header in if the pwm header handles it anyways?


Please link which splitter exactly you're looking at

If it's the one I'm thinking, the extra 3pin connector actually only has one wire, which is for reporting RPM to the motherboard in case you want the mobo to turn off when the pump stops (if connected to CPU_FAN)


----------



## zerophase

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Archea47*
> 
> Please link which splitter exactly you're looking at
> 
> If it's the one I'm thinking, the extra 3pin connector actually only has one wire, which is for reporting RPM to the motherboard in case you want the mobo to turn off when the pump stops (if connected to CPU_FAN)


This is it. http://www.performance-pcs.com/pwm-cables/new-swiftech-pwm-splitter-cable.html


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stanneveld*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *NE0XY*
> 
> I'm thinking about adding an RGB LED strip to my case, and since I already have the aquaero, why not the Aquacomputer one?
> 
> If I want to controll the strip with the Aquaero/Aquasuite software, is the LED strip+connector cable all I need or do I need to purchase the "farbwerk usb aquabus" aswell?
> 
> Link: http://www.aquatuning.se/moddning/led-belysning/19336/aquacomputer-rgb-led-strip-ip67-black-lenght-50cm?c=5485
> 
> Also, I will be using two LED strips, so please keep this in consideration
> 
> 
> 
> You need to Farbwer aquabus controller.
> The RGB on the Aquero is just for 1 led and it has a different connector., you cant connect led strips to it.
Click to expand...

you dont you can also get the jeak controller

or

not have any controller !

that is 2 other options,

also to point out that the rgb on the aquaero is also the wrong type of RGB ( google common anode vs common cathode ) it really depends on what you need !~

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zerophase*
> 
> It looks like Swiftech PWM fan splitter is going to work for me controlling my dual DDC pumps, for now. The fact that one pump is controlled by a 3 pin connector has me worried I'll lose pwm control, if one pump fails. Also from understanding each pump can pull up to 18 watts, and with the heatsink each channel can support 36 watts. I'm not too crazy about being right on the limit, in case the channel max degrades over time. Could that actually be an issue?
> 
> I'm aware it's possible to upgrade up to 8 additional fan control channels. Aquaero Poweradjust can add channels, but lacks pwm control. Is there anyway to add extra pwm channels other than slaving an additional unit to the Aquaero 6 xt? How do I go about making a unit a slave, and does it need to be a 6 xt as well?


1 slaving a unit gives you ZERO more PWM channels as they are just VOLTAGE controlled !~ ( important )
2 how to slave - remove display and front panel - then flash slave firmware !

again this does not give you any more PWM channels !!!!!!!!

3 your pumps still get power from the fat 4pin from your PSU !!! NOT the aquaero - unless you repinned them or had a shop do it for you !
so your pumps DO NOT DRAW POWER from the AQ or MOBO !!!!!!! if left wired as stock !
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DanBr*
> 
> Is there any benefit to have the Farbwerk plugged in to the Aquaero 6 with the aqaubus connection?
> If I have it just plugged into the MB via USB, can I still control it from the Aquasuite interface?
> Thanks,
> Dan


there can be, like you can have the rgb be red when the water temp hits a temp or w.e. but do you need it? personal choice [email protected]


----------



## Gabrielzm

Ok Folks, @Jakusonfire, @IT Diva and @Shoggy

my mps 400 connected via USB out of the blue stop reading anything. Unscaled values are = 0. The usb connection is ok, device is recognized, changed cables and port but still 0 readings. Yes, loop is working and flow on (cpu temp stable at 27 C). This happened with the PC on and suddenly flow was = 0. The only thing I noticed is the absence of one of the membranes:


----------



## Costas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> The only thing I noticed is the absence of one of the membranes:


Those small rubber plugs are nothing to worry about. They simply fill in two holes in the top of the MPS body which are used as access holes to drill the two pressure ports in the flow chamber in the lower part of the body.

The device is fairly simple and utilises the one IC which does the pressure sensing.

If it has simply failed it could just be due to the sensor IC going faulty...or a similar thing could occur if the tiny holes drilled for the sensor have become blocked with foreign debri. The holes are fairly small so they could posiblly become blocked and therefore prevent the device from sensing pressure.

Is it still under warranty? If not you could pull the board out of the housing (bit of a trick to it) and first ensure that the small pressure sensing ports in the acetal body are indeed clear and if that is the case you could apply some pressure directly to one of the sensor ICs ports and see if that gives you a reading or not.

The sensor IC utilised in the MPS400 is a Freescale component - MP3V5004DP

For further detail here is the data sheet: http://cache.freescale.com/files/sensors/doc/data_sheet/MP3V5004G.pdf


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Costas*
> 
> Those small rubber plugs are nothing to worry about. They simply fill in two holes in the top of the MPS body which are used as access holes to drill the two pressure ports in the flow chamber in the lower part of the body.
> 
> The device is fairly simple and utilises the one IC which does the pressure sensing.
> 
> If it has simply failed it could just be due to the sensor IC going faulty...or a similar thing could occur if the tiny holes drilled for the sensor have become blocked with foreign debri. The holes are fairly small so they could posiblly become blocked and therefore prevent the device from sensing pressure.
> 
> Is it still under warranty? If not you could pull the board out of the housing (bit of a trick to it) and first ensure that the small pressure sensing ports in the acetal body are indeed clear and if that is the case you could apply some pressure directly to one of the sensor ICs ports and see if that gives you a reading or not.
> 
> The sensor IC utilised in the MPS400 is a Freescale component - MP3V5004DP
> 
> For further detail here is the data sheet: http://cache.freescale.com/files/sensors/doc/data_sheet/MP3V5004G.pdf


Thank you mate. Yeah still under warranty. Time to send Aquacomputer support a ticket. Took out of the loop and replaced with high flow USB I have as spare. The only good news is that reading from the MPS 400 were right on target.


----------



## Costas

Ah Ok... if under warranty then you know what to do....!

Good old mechanical Hi-Flow still comes in handy then.


----------



## DanBr

My build is not finished yet, but I just received my Aquaero 6 XT. Can I power it up with a extra PSU that I have just to try out the remote and whatever would come up on the screen?
thanks
Dan


----------



## Costas

Dan,

You most certainly can power it up with a standalone supply.

Many of us do this all the time when when using Aquaeros separate from a PC ie when bench testing other water cooling parts etc.


----------



## DanBr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Costas*
> 
> Dan,
> 
> You most certainly can power it up with a standalone supply.
> 
> Many of us do this all the time when when using Aquaeros separate from a PC ie when bench testing other water cooling parts etc.


thanks, I will fire it up


----------



## bern43

I'm upgrading my 5xt to a 6xt, mostly for the lower heat. I'm planning on using the same cabling. Anything that I should be aware of? I'm hoping I can just save and use my existing profile with the new unit and avoid hooking each AQ component (flow meter, res, etc.) up through usb again.


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bern43*
> 
> I'm upgrading my 5xt to a 6xt, mostly for the lower heat. I'm planning on using the same cabling. Anything that I should be aware of? I'm hoping I can just save and use my existing profile with the new unit and avoid hooking each AQ component (flow meter, res, etc.) up through usb again.


You won't need to reset any usb device, they operate independently of the Aquaero. My Aq5 profile worked just fine on the Aq6, might just need to change some fan settings. The Aq6 even uses the same default profile naming,


----------



## DanBr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> Yeah, just the standard sensors. They work better for me because instead of the exact same sensor (that is all water sensors are) in a water sensor fitting measuring the temp of a small brass fitting with a small surface area contacting the coolant, the sensor is measuring the temp of a thin brass plate with a large surface area in contact with coolant.
> 
> As water temp changes the sensor on the tank changes faster than the sensor on the small fitting. For steady temps there is no real difference and of course sensor fittings can be placed mostly wherever you want them.


How do you attach the sensor to the radiator???...Tape
Dan


----------



## DanBr

Aquaero 6 cables???

I bought the "Y" aquabus extension cable to hook up the pump and the MSP400 to the high aquabus port on the aquaero 6
It is a 4 pin cable.
The cables that come with the Aquabus pump and the MSP 400 are 3 pin cables (they say Aquabus RPM signal cable)
Why is that?
Do I need yet another 4 pin cable?

Can I hook up this 3 pin cable to the 4 pin Aqaubus "Y" cable and then to the Aquaero High port.

Dan


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DanBr*
> 
> Aquaero 6 cables???
> 
> I bought the "Y" aquabus extension cable to hook up the pump and the MSP400 to the high aquabus port on the aquaero 6
> It is a 4 pin cable.
> The cables that come with the Aquabus pump and the MSP 400 are 3 pin cables (they say Aquabus RPM signal cable)
> Why is that?
> Do I need yet another 4 pin double female cable?
> 
> Can I hook up this 3 pin cable to the 4 pin Aqaubus "Y" cable and then to the Aquaero High port.
> 
> Dan


Yes. It should work.


----------



## DanBr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Yes. It should work.


thanks


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DanBr*
> 
> Aquaero 6 cables???
> 
> I bought the "Y" aquabus extension cable to hook up the pump and the MSP400 to the high aquabus port on the aquaero 6
> It is a 4 pin cable.
> The cables that come with the Aquabus pump and the MSP 400 are 3 pin cables (they say Aquabus RPM signal cable)
> Why is that?
> Do I need yet another 4 pin double female cable?
> 
> Can I hook up this 3 pin cable to the 4 pin Aqaubus "Y" cable and then to the Aquaero High port.
> 
> Dan


For a quick answer, the guys will fill in details if I leave any out, (or have something wrong) is that one wire of the 4 wire aquabus is a power wire for devices that don't get power from the PSU.

An aquabus pump would get its power from the PSU via molex, so doesn't need power from the A6, and can work with a 3 wire cable.

Other aquabus devices need the 4 wire (4pin) cable to get power from the A6.

If the MPS400 came with a 3 wire cable, and I don't recall that it has a molex connection, then it just has passive circuitry that's self powered from the bus.

Darlene


----------



## fast_fate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DanBr*
> 
> Aquaero 6 cables???
> 
> I bought the "Y" aquabus extension cable to hook up the pump and the MSP400 to the high aquabus port on the aquaero 6
> It is a 4 pin cable.
> The cables that come with the Aquabus pump and the MSP 400 are 3 pin cables (they say Aquabus RPM signal cable)
> Why is that?
> Do I need yet another 4 pin cable?
> 
> Can I hook up this 3 pin cable to the 4 pin Aqaubus "Y" cable and then to the Aquaero High port.
> 
> Dan


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Yes. It should work.


Someone will have to confirm....
coz my memery not 100%








But isn't the 3 pin used when USB is connected.

If USB not connected - then need the 4 pin cable.

That's how I remember it, could be sooo wrong though


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fast_fate*
> 
> Someone will have to confirm....
> coz my memery not 100%
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But isn't the 3 pin used when USB is connected.
> 
> If USB not connected - then need the 4 pin cable.
> 
> That's how I remember it, could be sooo wrong though


for the pump I am sure it works with the 3 pin cable alone. I tested recently for Ozzy with 3 and 4 pin cables and worked with both. For the mps 400 my reasoning was that if came with 3 pin cable it should work but you might be correct. Will try to confirm latter since I took the faulty mps 400 off the loop yesterday and If I manage to reach the high port in the installed aquaero would be easy to test the 3 x 4 pin cables...


----------



## fast_fate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> for the pump I am sure it works with the 3 pin cable alone. I tested recently for Ozzy with 3 and 4 pin cables and worked with both. For the mps 400 my reasoning was that if came with 3 pin cable it should work but you might be correct. Will try to confirm latter since I took the faulty mps 400 off the loop yesterday and If I manage to reach the high port in the installed aquaero would be easy to test the 3 x 4 pin cables...


yeah, I should have been more specific








I was thinking about the MPS 400 while typing


----------



## ozzy1925

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> for the pump I am sure it works with the 3 pin cable alone. I tested recently for Ozzy with 3 and 4 pin cables and worked with both. For the mps 400 my reasoning was that if came with 3 pin cable it should work but you might be correct. Will try to confirm latter since I took the faulty mps 400 off the loop yesterday and If I manage to reach the high port in the installed aquaero would be easy to test the 3 x 4 pin cables...


yea thanks again, the 3pin aquabus works for my d5 usb pumps but not sure if its because pumps are running serial i cant get them below 2000 rpm


----------



## InfoSeeker

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ozzy1925*
> 
> yea thanks again, the 3pin aquabus works for my d5 usb pumps but not sure if its because pumps are running serial i cant get them below 2000 rpm


Do you have a Miminimum power value set in the aquasuite>aquaero>Pumps tab?


----------



## DanBr

MSP 400 question.
It says page 18 of the included manual, that "automatic calibration of zero flow" is activated by default.
It also says "if activated" the sensor will perform a zero flow value when the pump is not running but is on standby USB power
I guess I will have to find out which USB motherboard headers still power a device when the computer is off.
Or does anyone have any other insights to this.
I think for simplicity I would like to go with the automatic zero flow

Then page 19 says " the pump must be turned off during the calibration process. Then start the calibration process by clicking "Calibrate zero value"

How can you do that? If the computer is on, the pump is on.
Hook it up to another PC temporarily?

dan


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DanBr*
> 
> MSP 400 question.
> It says page 18 of the included manual, that "automatic calibration of zero flow" is activated by default.
> It also says "if activated" the sensor will perform a zero flow value when the pump is not running but is on standby USB power
> I guess I will have to find out which USB motherboard headers still power a device when the computer is off.
> Or does anyone have any other insights to this.
> I think for simplicity I would like to go with the automatic zero flow
> 
> Then page 19 says " the pump must be turned off during the calibration process. Then start the calibration process by clicking "Calibrate zero value"
> 
> How can you do that? If the computer is on, the pump is on.
> Hook it up to another PC temporarily?
> 
> dan


yep. Using something like this:

http://www.akasa.com.tw/search.php?seed=EXUSBIE-40

you can connect the mps 400 to another pc (laptop) and do the calibration. But if you run on usb would be simpler. A lot of boards keep power on usb even when the pc is off. Certainly all the x79 and x99 boards I have.


----------



## ozzy1925

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *InfoSeeker*
> 
> Do you have a Miminimum power value set in the aquasuite>aquaero>Pumps tab?


yea tried almost everything minimum value they go is 33 and 34hz


----------



## DanBr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> yep. Using something like this:
> 
> http://www.akasa.com.tw/search.php?seed=EXUSBIE-40
> 
> you can connect the mps 400 to another pc (laptop) and do the calibration. But if you run on usb would be simpler. A lot of boards keep power on usb even when the pc is off. Certainly all the x79 and x99 boards I have.


Ok I will have a X99 board when this build is done.
The confusing part was it said to "click calibrate zero process".
How do you do that if the computer is off (pump off)
Dan

I am going to open up this computer tomorrow and connect it to a USB header and see what I see


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DanBr*
> 
> Aquaero 6 cables???
> 
> I bought the "Y" aquabus extension cable to hook up the pump and the MSP400 to the high aquabus port on the aquaero 6
> It is a 4 pin cable.
> The cables that come with the Aquabus pump and the MSP 400 are 3 pin cables (they say Aquabus RPM signal cable)
> Why is that?
> Do I need yet another 4 pin double female cable?
> 
> Can I hook up this 3 pin cable to the 4 pin Aqaubus "Y" cable and then to the Aquaero High port.
> 
> Dan


For a quick answer, the guys will fill in details
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ozzy1925*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> for the pump I am sure it works with the 3 pin cable alone. I tested recently for Ozzy with 3 and 4 pin cables and worked with both. For the mps 400 my reasoning was that if came with 3 pin cable it should work but you might be correct. Will try to confirm latter since I took the faulty mps 400 off the loop yesterday and If I manage to reach the high port in the installed aquaero would be easy to test the 3 x 4 pin cables...
> 
> 
> 
> yea thanks again, the 3pin aquabus works for my d5 usb pumps but not sure if its because pumps are running serial *i cant get them below 2000 rpm*
Click to expand...

Keep in mind that the AC aquabus D5's are effectively Varios with the red adjuster replaced by a digitally controlled potentiometer, and can't be expected to slow down any more than a Vario does.

They are not PWM D5's, and can't get anywhere near the ~ 820 rpm minimum of the PWM version.

Darlene


----------



## ozzy1925

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> For a quick answer, the guys will fill in details
> Keep in mind that the AC aquabus D5's are effectively Varios with the red adjuster replaced by a digitally controlled potentiometer, and can't be expected to slow down any more than a Vario does.
> 
> They are not PWM D5's, and can't get anywhere near the ~ 820 rpm minimum of the PWM version.
> 
> Darlene


thanks, i also hear some humming noise from one of the pump but only around @3300rpm lowering or increasing rpm fixes the noise can you tell me why?


----------



## InfoSeeker

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DanBr*
> 
> MSP 400 question.
> It says page 18 of the included manual, that "automatic calibration of zero flow" is activated by default.
> It also says "if activated" the sensor will perform a zero flow value when the pump is not running but is on standby USB power
> I guess I will have to find out which USB motherboard headers still power a device when the computer is off.
> Or does anyone have any other insights to this.
> I think for simplicity I would like to go with the automatic zero flow
> 
> Then page 19 says " the pump must be turned off during the calibration process. Then start the calibration process by clicking "Calibrate zero value"
> 
> How can you do that? If the computer is on, the pump is on.
> Hook it up to another PC temporarily?
> 
> dan


It is actually much simpler than that:
- select the "Automatic calibration of zero flow" option
- select "Flow 400" for the "Load flow calibration curve"
- select the ID of your tubing (13/10 mm)
and click "Import calibration data"
You are done... now the above does need a USB connection to configure, but the USB can be removed after configuration.

If you do not keep a USB connection, you DO NEED the 4 pin aquabus cable between the flow sensor and the aquaero (pin 4 carries power)
And obviously. You also need a USB connection from the aquaero and the mobo.

I believe all USB connections keep power unless you have changed that in your windows power configuration

If you look at the aquaero when your computer is off, you will notice the USB connection keeps the the electronics on and the LCD displayed.
And when the system is off, the aquaero supplies the flow 400 with the required power for zero calibration.

In the instructions I believe it also says something about the zero flow value requiring frequent calibration, which should happen every time you turn your system off.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ozzy1925*
> 
> thanks, i also hear some humming noise from one of the pump but only around @3300rpm lowering or increasing rpm fixes the noise can you tell me why?


pretty normal. There is always a sweet spot where the pumps are more quiet. Usually for d5 running them a 100% is a sweet spot. Other sweet spot might be around 25 or 40%


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ozzy1925*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> For a quick answer, the guys will fill in details
> Keep in mind that the AC aquabus D5's are effectively Varios with the red adjuster replaced by a digitally controlled potentiometer, and can't be expected to slow down any more than a Vario does.
> 
> They are not PWM D5's, and can't get anywhere near the ~ 820 rpm minimum of the PWM version.
> 
> Darlene
> 
> 
> 
> thanks, i also hear some humming noise from one of the pump but only around @3300rpm lowering or increasing rpm fixes the noise can you tell me why?
Click to expand...

Too many variables to even hazard a guess . . .

Are you actually sure it's coming specifically from 1 pump, and not a beat frequency that comes from 2 motors at very nearly the same rpm which may seem like more of a pulsing/droning hum?


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DanBr*
> 
> Ok I will have a X99 board when this build is done.
> The confusing part was it said to "click calibrate zero process".
> How do you do that if the computer is off (pump off)
> Dan
> 
> I am going to open up this computer tomorrow and connect it to a USB header and see what I see


You are making it more complicated than it needs to be. When the Auto cal is checked any time the PC restarts the sensor will zero itself. If the system is running and you want zero flow you can just disconnect the pumps power briefly.

The 3 pin cables that come with MPS devices can be used as Aquabus or alarm cables. The full 4 pin Aquabus cables are optional extras. Any MPS device that uses a pressure sensor needs the 4 pin cable to work while not connected with USB because the sensor needs a 5V source. The USB pump does not have the sensor onboard and doesn't need the full 4 pin Aquabus.


----------



## ozzy1925

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> pretty normal. There is always a sweet spot where the pumps are more quiet. Usually for d5 running them a 100% is a sweet spot. Other sweet spot might be around 25 or 40%


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Too many variables to even hazard a guess . . .
> 
> Are you actually sure it's coming specifically from 1 pump, and not a beat frequency that comes from 2 motors at very nearly the same rpm which may seem like more of a pulsing/droning hum?


yea its only one of the two, i tried to get a sound clip but its really hard.Anyways i wont be using 3300 rpm anymore







.Also one more thing for you guys







i know its off topic here but i still cant find a solution for the water going up and down when setting the pump speed and turning on or off the pc :




is this still because of air ?


----------



## gamerking

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ozzy1925*
> 
> yea its only one of the two, i tried to get a sound clip but its really hard.Anyways i wont be using 3300 rpm anymore
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .Also one more thing for you guys
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> i know its off topic here but i still cant find a solution for the water going up and down when setting the pump speed and turning on or off the pc :
> 
> 
> 
> 
> is this still because of air ?


yea its air most likely try tilting the case again and see if it comes lose. i thought my fans were loud you got a jet in there dont you


----------



## ozzy1925

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gamerking*
> 
> yea its air most likely try tilting the case again and see if it comes lose. i thought my fans were loud you got a jet in there dont you


i listened @Gabrielzm advice and run the res cap open for almost 1 hour changing pump speed from max to %50 but it doesnt seem to help


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ozzy1925*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> pretty normal. There is always a sweet spot where the pumps are more quiet. Usually for d5 running them a 100% is a sweet spot. Other sweet spot might be around 25 or 40%
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Too many variables to even hazard a guess . . .
> 
> Are you actually sure it's coming specifically from 1 pump, and not a beat frequency that comes from 2 motors at very nearly the same rpm which may seem like more of a pulsing/droning hum?
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> yea its only one of the two, i tried to get a sound clip but its really hard.Anyways i wont be using 3300 rpm anymore
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .Also one more thing for you guys
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> i know its off topic here but i still cant find a solution for the water going up and down when setting the pump speed and turning on or off the pc :
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *is this still because of air* ?
Click to expand...

If you think about what the coolant level in the res dropping when the pumps come on, and then rising when they turn off indicates, . . . you can draw a valid conclusion.

For the level to go down, it must be that the volume in the loop occupied by the coolant has increased. . . . . or the coolant compressed . . .

The second possibility violates the properties of the fluid, so rule that one out.

That leaves the "loop volume occupied by the coolant has increased" as the only remaining viable possibility.

For the loop volume to increase, there are 2 possibilities . . . .

The tubing is expanding / bulging from pressure . . . . . or

There's an air pocket trapped at the top of a top rad that doesn't have a top bleed fitting, that short of turning the rig upside down, will likely never get displaced is being compressed by the pressure of the coolant flow into a smaller volume, which means a larger volume needs to be filled with coolant from the res.

Since the first option probably contributes only a nearly imperceptible amount, even when the coolant/tubing is at its warmest/softest, the deductive conclusion is that it has to be air.

For the really small amount that you have, I'd stop obsessing over it and get on with enjoying your build.

It isn't going to have any measurable effect.

Darlene


----------



## DanBr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *InfoSeeker*
> 
> It is actually much simpler than that:
> - select the "Automatic calibration of zero flow" option
> - select "Flow 400" for the "Load flow calibration curve"
> - select the ID of your tubing (13/10 mm)
> and click "Import calibration data"
> You are done... now the above does need a USB connection to configure, but the USB can be removed after configuration.
> 
> If you do not keep a USB connection, you DO NEED the 4 pin aquabus cable between the flow sensor and the aquaero (pin 4 carries power)
> And obviously. You also need a USB connection from the aquaero and the mobo.
> 
> I believe all USB connections keep power unless you have changed that in your windows power configuration
> 
> If you look at the aquaero when your computer is off, you will notice the USB connection keeps the the electronics on and the LCD displayed.
> And when the system is off, the aquaero supplies the flow 400 with the required power for zero calibration.
> 
> In the instructions I believe it also says something about the zero flow value requiring frequent calibration, which should happen every time you turn your system off.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> You are making it more complicated than it needs to be. When the Auto cal is checked any time the PC restarts the sensor will zero itself. If the system is running and you want zero flow you can just disconnect the pumps power briefly.
> 
> The 3 pin cables that come with MPS devices can be used as Aquabus or alarm cables. The full 4 pin Aquabus cables are optional extras. Any MPS device that uses a pressure sensor needs the 4 pin cable to work while not connected with USB because the sensor needs a 5V source. The USB pump does not have the sensor onboard and doesn't need the full 4 pin Aquabus.


Thanks again,
I hope I am not driving you guys crazy
Dan

Your point about seeing that the LCD panel of the Aquaero 6 is still lit when the computer is off, would have cleared that up for me, but I don't have the build done so I have never seen that yet.

Reading the manual always gets me in trouble


----------



## ozzy1925

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> If you think about what the coolant level in the res dropping when the pumps come on, and then rising when they turn off indicates, . . . you can draw a valid conclusion.
> 
> For the level to go down, it must be that the volume in the loop occupied by the coolant has increased. . . . . or the coolant compressed . . .
> 
> The second possibility violates the properties of the fluid, so rule that one out.
> 
> That leaves the "loop volume occupied by the coolant has increased" as the only remaining viable possibility.
> 
> For the loop volume to increase, there are 2 possibilities . . . .
> 
> The tubing is expanding / bulging from pressure . . . . . or
> 
> There's an air pocket trapped at the top of a top rad that doesn't have a top bleed fitting, that short of turning the rig upside down, will likely never get displaced is being compressed by the pressure of the coolant flow into a smaller volume, which means a larger volume needs to be filled with coolant from the res.
> 
> Since the first option probably contributes only a nearly imperceptible amount, even when the coolant/tubing is at its warmest/softest, the deductive conclusion is that it has to be air.
> 
> For the really small amount that you have, I'd stop obsessing over it and get on with enjoying your build.
> 
> It isn't going to have any measurable effect.
> 
> Darlene


oky, for the last time i have added some fluid when pumps are runing %100 and leave it as is


----------



## DanBr

Farbwerk question to any users.
What rgb LED's do you recommend?
I was looking at the ones listed on Aquatuning site and
this one...Phobya
http://www.aquatuning.us/modding/flexlights/12012/phobya-led-flexlight-lowdensity-60cm-rgb-18x-smd-leds
shows in the picture that it is 1/3 red, blue, green.
That's not how it really is....is it.

The Farbwerk and make the strip a chosen color but not divide it up into 3 colors...right
Can the Farbwerk rasie or lower the intensity?

Dan


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DanBr*
> 
> Farbwerk question to any users.
> What rgb LED's do you recommend?
> I was looking at the ones listed on Aquatuning site and
> this one...Phobya
> http://www.aquatuning.us/modding/flexlights/12012/phobya-led-flexlight-lowdensity-60cm-rgb-18x-smd-leds
> shows in the picture that it is 1/3 red, blue, green.
> That's not how it really is....is it.
> 
> The Farbwerk and make the strip a chosen color but not divide it up into 3 colors...right
> Can the Farbwerk rasie or lower the intensity?
> 
> Dan


The farb can change the intensity and can mix the colors on the rgb strip to make several different color. I would go with the aqua rgb stripe if the price is not absurd. If not try the PPC one.

On other news Aquacomputer is sending a replacement board for my MPS400. Then I will open up and replaced it.


----------



## InfoSeeker

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DanBr*
> 
> Farbwerk question to any users.
> What rgb LED's do you recommend?
> I was looking at the ones listed on Aquatuning site and
> this one...Phobya
> http://www.aquatuning.us/modding/flexlights/12012/phobya-led-flexlight-lowdensity-60cm-rgb-18x-smd-leds
> shows in the picture that it is 1/3 red, blue, green.
> That's not how it really is....is it.
> 
> The Farbwerk and make the strip a chosen color but not divide it up into 3 colors...right
> Can the Farbwerk rasie or lower the intensity?
> 
> Dan


This clip by aquacomputer is a comprehensive demo of the farbwerk's capabilities.

And here is a link to aquacomputer's introductory post.

EDIT: be aware the aquabus & Bluetooth versions are mutually exclusive - Bluetooth does not have aquabus interface & vice versa.


----------



## electro2u

Finally figured out virtual and software sensors... only took a year and a day. For the year I just treated them like some sort of unexplained phenomenon like ice falling from the sky.


----------



## ozzy1925

i placed the aquaero temperature sensor inline to the drain port of my alphacool rads with a stop plug to see the water temps i wonder if the water really reaching there because i also have temperature probe that comes with the aquaero inside my case attached nowhere to see the case temp when i check the values are very close .Do you think i am getting accurate water reading or false ?


----------



## DanBr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *InfoSeeker*
> 
> This clip by aquacomputer is a comprehensive demo of the farbwerk's capabilities.
> 
> And here is a link to aquacomputer's introductory post.
> 
> EDIT: be aware the aquabus & Bluetooth versions are mutually exclusive - Bluetooth does not have aquabus interface & vice versa.


ok, not looking at bluetooth


----------



## DanBr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ozzy1925*
> 
> i placed the aquaero temperature sensor inline to the drain port of my alphacool rads with a stop plug to see the water temps i wonder if the water really reaching there because i also have temperature probe that comes with the aquaero inside my case attached nowhere to see the case temp when i check the values are very close .Do you think i am getting accurate water reading or false ?


not sure what you mean by with a stop plug but I think water has to constantly flow thru the inline sensor


----------



## InfoSeeker

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tblake*
> 
> Also, does anyone know the Windows 10 compatibility status of aquasuite?
> 
> Thanks!
> 
> Tom


aquasuite/Windows 10 status per aquacomputer support.


----------



## cram501

Open Hardware Monitor no longer works with my installation and Windows 10. I haven't made any attempt to figure it out yet, but none of OHM data is available now in Aquasuite 2015-6 for me.


----------



## Ironsmack

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cram501*
> 
> Open Hardware Monitor no longer works with my installation and Windows 10. I haven't made any attempt to figure it out yet, but none of OHM data is available now in Aquasuite 2015-6 for me.


Save and export your profile and settings. Uninstall the old copy and re-install OHM. Its working right now with my Win 10 + Aquasuite 2015.

You just need to re-do your temp (or virtual temp).


----------



## cram501

I've uninstalled, deleted my old files, re-imported the pages.

The issue I am seeing is no data from open hardware monitor. There is no data to display. It's not listed when I attempt to assign a data source.

If I attempt to assign a data source for a software sensor, it tells me "No external data sources available.".


----------



## Ironsmack

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cram501*
> 
> I've uninstalled, deleted my old files, re-imported the pages.
> 
> The issue I am seeing is no data from open hardware monitor. There is no data to display. It's not listed when I attempt to assign a data source.
> 
> If I attempt to assign a data source for a software sensor, it tells me "No external data sources available.".


Sorry, i thought i was running 2015-6. Im running 2015-3 and OHM 0.7.1 beta

Edit: Ok, so i downloaded 2015-6. It recognized my LT and updated the firmware on it first.

Then i loaded my profile i had from 2015-3. Works great. Just had to rename my fans, but OHM was recognized and loaded up.


----------



## valvehead

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cram501*
> 
> I've uninstalled, deleted my old files, re-imported the pages.
> 
> The issue I am seeing is no data from open hardware monitor. There is no data to display. It's not listed when I attempt to assign a data source.
> 
> If I attempt to assign a data source for a software sensor, it tells me "No external data sources available.".


Did you make sure that the service is installed and running?



Note: The above is on 2015-3 on Windows 7. I assume that the server setting in 2015-6 on Windows 10 would be similar.


----------



## cram501

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *valvehead*
> 
> Did you make sure that the service is installed and running?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Note: The above is on 2015-3 on Windows 7. I assume that the server setting in 2015-6 on Windows 10 would be similar.


The service is installed and running. I also installed/reinstalled the latest VCRedist (http://forum.aquacomputer.de/berwachung-und-steuerung/p1417670-windows-10-preview-link-zu-open-hardware-monitor-klappt-nicht/#post1417670). That has helped some with the same problem.


----------



## Ninhalem

According to one of those posts from Shoggy in the German section, the problem lies with Windows 10, and Aquacomputer will not fix any of the bugs until Microsoft stops changing Windows 10 so quickly. I think we're going to be waiting a while if that is their decision.


----------



## Ironsmack

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ninhalem*
> 
> According to one of those posts from Shoggy in the German section, the problem lies with Windows 10, and Aquacomputer will not fix any of the bugs until Microsoft stops changing Windows 10 so quickly. I think we're going to be waiting a while if that is their decision.


Specifically - what bugs?


----------



## DanBr

I think I would like to have my Aq6, Farbwerk and MSP400 connected to the Motherboard via USB.
My ASUS X-99-A only has (2) USB 2.0 connections on the mothe board.
Are there y cables I could use, or should I not connect the AQ6?
I thought I needed both the AQ6 and the MSP400 connected so the MSP400 would get its zero flow calibration when the pc is powered down
Could it still get that if the Aquaero 6 is not plugged into USB
Thanks
Dan


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DanBr*
> 
> I think I would like to have my Aq6, Farbwerk and MSP400 connected to the Motherboard via USB.
> My ASUS X-99-A only has (2) USB 2.0 connections on the mothe board.
> Are there y cables I could use, or should I not connect the AQ6?
> I thought I needed both the AQ6 and the MSP400 connected so the MSP400 would get its zero flow calibration when the pc is powered down
> Could it still get that if the Aquaero 6 is not plugged into USB
> Thanks
> Dan


Remember I linked this for you a while ago . . . .

http://www.performance-pcs.com/internal-usb-cables/nzxt-iu01-usb-2-0-internal-expansion-module.html

It's an internal USB hub and gets a lot of use just for situations as you have.

It's OOS at PPCs, but you can find it on Amazon easy enough.

They are small and really handy . . I have one installed on each of my tech benches:



D.


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DanBr*
> 
> I think I would like to have my Aq6, Farbwerk and MSP400 connected to the Motherboard via USB.
> My ASUS X-99-A only has (2) USB 2.0 connections on the mothe board.
> Are there y cables I could use, or should I not connect the AQ6?
> I thought I needed both the AQ6 and the MSP400 connected so the MSP400 would get its zero flow calibration when the pc is powered down
> Could it still get that if the Aquaero 6 is not plugged into USB
> Thanks
> Dan


Two usb motherboard headers is enough for 4 devices.

The mps flow meter does not need to be connected via usb for auto zeroing or anything other than changing it's calibration and settings, just 4 pin aquabus.

There is no reason not to have the flow meter connected via usb but honestly, once you have it set properly there is no reason to change any settings. The Aquaero on the other hand really should be connected always.


----------



## Ninhalem

Disregard.


----------



## stanneveld

Works perfectly.
Configured the mps400 with USB in Aquasuite for MPS400 and 10/13 made aquabus "priorety" (donno what that doe) saved, connected it by 4 pins aqua bus cable to the Aquaero.
Works great that mps400 and is way smaller then the high flow i had before. (mine was making a terrible rata rata rata noise so i replaced it)
Just need to make another mounting plate for this thingy, i dont wanna hide it, i want to see it in the window









That USB thingy is great btw i need somthing like that, i need to hook up my Corsair 650RMI to.

Ordered 200$ in Monsoon fittings i think ah hell lets try that mps400 to.. (i realy hate this hobby)


----------



## DanBr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> Two usb motherboard headers is enough for 4 devices.
> 
> The mps flow meter does not need to be connected via usb for auto zeroing or anything other than changing it's calibration and settings, just 4 pin aquabus.
> 
> There is no reason not to have the flow meter connected via usb but honestly, once you have it set properly there is no reason to change any settings. The Aquaero on the other hand really should be connected always.


How is it that the (2) headers can connect (4) devices?
Is it because there are (2) rows of pins on each, (1) 4 pins and (1) five pins?
I believe I have to somehow see which is the hot and ground pin to match up with what is on the Aqua parts via the cable.
So once I figure that out, I would just ignore the 5th pin on one of the connectors and the (2) 4 pin usb cables would plug in identically

dan


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DanBr*
> 
> How is it that the (2) headers can connect (4) devices?
> Is it because there are (2) rows of pins on each, (1) 4 pins and (1) five pins?
> I believe I have to somehow see which is the hot and ground pin to match up with what is on the Aqua parts via the cable.
> So once I figure that out, I would just ignore the 5th pin on one of the connectors and the (2) 4 pin usb cables would plug in identically
> 
> dan


Yes, motherboard headers are twin USB connections. That is why they support two USB ports on a pc case, and why the specs for your board will say USB 2.0, 4 internal or mid board

The USB cables have two ground wires but only one is needed. On the motherboard header the end with the missing 5th pin is the ground.


----------



## DanBr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Remember I linked this for you a while ago . . . .
> 
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/internal-usb-cables/nzxt-iu01-usb-2-0-internal-expansion-module.html
> 
> It's an internal USB hub and gets a lot of use just for situations as you have.
> 
> It's OOS at PPCs, but you can find it on Amazon easy enough.
> 
> They are small and really handy . . I have one installed on each of my tech benches:
> 
> 
> 
> D.


You did, but then I was less sure of what I was going to end up with than now and thought everything would just hook up to the Aq 6, and I lost track of it.
It is a very nice piece, but if I can still get 3 items hooked up to the (2) headers on the MB, perhaps I don't need it. If not I will pick one up.
Can I plug 2 devices into the same header on the motherboard, ignoring the 5th pin on one of the connections
Dan


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DanBr*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Remember I linked this for you a while ago . . . .
> 
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/internal-usb-cables/nzxt-iu01-usb-2-0-internal-expansion-module.html
> 
> It's an internal USB hub and gets a lot of use just for situations as you have.
> 
> It's OOS at PPCs, but you can find it on Amazon easy enough.
> 
> They are small and really handy . . I have one installed on each of my tech benches:
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> D.
> 
> 
> 
> You did, but then I was less sure of what I was going to end up with than now and thought everything would just hook up to the Aq 6, and I lost track of it.
> It is a very nice piece, but if I can still get 3 items hooked up to the (2) headers on the MB, perhaps I don't need it. If not I will pick one up.
> *Can I plug 2 devices into the same header on the motherboard, ignoring the 5th pin on one of the connections*
> Dan
Click to expand...

Yes


----------



## zerophase

I think I'm going to pickup a bunch of addons for my aq 6 xt. Definitely grabbing the water block and high flow sensor. Not sure, what else I need for it. Thinking about picking up the clock, fill sensor, and 2 water temp sensors.

Is there any reason to get the battery backed up clock when connecting by USB?

I really don't know which fill sensor is right for my system I have a 250 ml tube reservoir. I think I'll attach it to the first pump with an extension fitting. I basically plan on using it for killing power to the system if a leak starts. Do I need any other cables or parts for that to work?

For the temp sensors I'll probably get the type you can add to empty ports. Are there any advantages for the other kind? Is placing the sensor by the inlet or outlet port more optimal for temp control?

I might pick up the led strip later once I know the lighting from other parts in the build. Any other addons to consider?


----------



## electro2u

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zerophase*
> 
> I think I'm going to pickup a bunch of addons for my aq 6 xt. Definitely grabbing the water block and high flow sensor. Not sure, what else I need for it. Thinking about picking up the clock, fill sensor, and 2 water temp sensors.
> 
> Is there any reason to get the battery backed up clock when connecting by USB?
> 
> I really don't know which fill sensor is right for my system I have a 250 ml tube reservoir. I think I'll attach it to the first pump with an extension fitting. I basically plan on using it for killing power to the system if a leak starts. Do I need any other cables or parts for that to work?
> 
> For the temp sensors I'll probably get the type you can add to empty ports. Are there any advantages for the other kind? Is placing the sensor by the inlet or outlet port more optimal for temp control?
> 
> I might pick up the led strip later once I know the lighting from other parts in the build. Any other addons to consider?


I'm no expert, I'll just be echoing what I've learned/read on this very thread for the most part:

The waterblock is totally unnecessary for the Aq6. The VRMs just don't get hot, ever. Also the waterblock doesn't fit the stock 6 and requires a little modding to install on it. The heatsink is already more than enough for my 6 even with practically no airflow.

No need for the clock module if using USB.

The fill sensor doesn't work very well. AFAIK Aquacomputer reservoirs are the only component that uses them. They apparently don't even work well in coffee machines.

The Aq can use flow rate or fan speed, other parameters to shut down the computer using the Windows keyboard shortcuts built into Aquasuite. If you want an insta kill switch built in you need to use the relay output and a 24 pin bridge cable (mine has been sitting unused for a year).

Multiple water temp sensors are not really necessary either, just because the water temp in a typical loop doesn't vary in any place more than 1-2c. Anywhere sightly is appropriate imo.Inline sensors are preferable but again, not necessary.

A flow meter is a must from my point of view, and often you can get a flow sensor with an integrated temp sensor. The Aquacomputer MPS400 is the typical recommendation here.

Hope that's helpful, only trying to save money and hassle.


----------



## zerophase

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> I'm no expert, I'll just be echoing what I've learned/read on this very thread for the most part:
> 
> The waterblock is totally unnecessary for the Aq6. The VRMs just don't get hot, ever. Also the waterblock doesn't fit the stock 6 and requires a little modding to install on it. The heatsink is already more than enough for my 6 even with practically no airflow.
> 
> No need for the clock module if using USB.
> 
> The fill sensor doesn't work very well. AFAIK Aquacomputer reservoirs are the only component that uses them. They apparently don't even work well in coffee machines.
> 
> The Aq can use flow rate or fan speed, other parameters to shut down the computer using the Windows keyboard shortcuts built into Aquasuite. If you want an insta kill switch built in you need to use the relay output and a 24 pin bridge cable (mine has been sitting unused for a year).
> 
> Multiple water temp sensors are not really necessary either, just because the water temp in a typical loop doesn't vary in any place more than 1-2c. Anywhere sightly is appropriate imo.Inline sensors are preferable but again, not necessary.
> 
> A flow meter is a must from my point of view, and often you can get a flow sensor with an integrated temp sensor. The Aquacomputer MPS400 is the typical recommendation here.
> 
> Hope that's helpful, only trying to save money and hassle.


Wow, even need to mod the heatsink to install the water block. Looks like I'd need to remove the heatsink to install it, and find the screws again. Guess I'm not picking that up. The isn't even needed when controlling two DDC pumps from one header?

If can't shut the computer down based on a fill sensor I definitely don't think I need that either. Know of any other kill switches in case of a leak?

It sounds like the mps400 works great once calibrated. How much does its impediment to flow compare with the high flow model?

From what I've read it sounds like the temp sensor on it isn't the best. Might pick up an inline sensor anyways. The only thing that turns me off on the high flow meter is the clicking noise it makes.


----------



## InfoSeeker

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DanBr*
> 
> How is it that the (2) headers can connect (4) devices?
> Is it because there are (2) rows of pins on each, (1) 4 pins and (1) five pins?
> I believe I have to somehow see which is the hot and ground pin to match up with what is on the Aqua parts via the cable.
> So once I figure that out, I would just ignore the 5th pin on one of the connectors and the (2) 4 pin usb cables would plug in identically
> 
> dan


I believe the 5th pin is the cable shielding ground.

Click here for internal USB cabling pin-out information.

If you decide to go with the NZXT UI01 (no downside), your best bet may be to buy direct from NZXT. Their price is $19.99 + $4.99 shipping, probably your lowest cost option.

One minor caveat, step 1 of the included instructions say "Connect this USB connector to a spare internet USB connector on the motherboard with the cable provided"... they mean internal USB connector, not internet USB connector.


----------



## fast_fate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zerophase*
> 
> Wow, even need to mod the heatsink to install the water block. Looks like I'd need to remove the heatsink to install it, and find the screws again. Guess I'm not picking that up. The isn't even needed when controlling two DDC pumps from one header?
> 
> If can't shut the computer down based on a fill sensor I definitely don't think I need that either. Know of any other kill switches in case of a leak?
> 
> *It sounds like the mps400 works great once calibrated. How much does its impediment to flow compare with the high flow model?*
> 
> From what I've read it sounds like the temp sensor on it isn't the best. Might pick up an inline sensor anyways. The only thing that turns me off on the high flow meter is the clicking noise it makes.



The MPS 400 is the least restrictive of the available choices.
Looking at the 1.0 GPM average system flow rate the difference is only around 0.25 PSI though


----------



## electro2u

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zerophase*
> 
> Wow, even need to mod the heatsink to install the water block. Looks like I'd need to remove the heatsink to install it, and find the screws again. Guess I'm not picking that up. The isn't even needed when controlling two DDC pumps from one header?
> 
> If can't shut the computer down based on a fill sensor I definitely don't think I need that either. Know of any other kill switches in case of a leak?


I don't think it's advisable to put two non pwm pumps on a single header regardless of vrm temps.

You can configure the aquaero to shutdown system based off the aqualis fill sensor but ive just read the sensor itself isnt very stable (i have no experience with it but a flow sensor is a better guage of loop health unless you cant see the water level in your res for some reason).


----------



## bern43

Anybody else running the passive heatsink with the real time clock. Just curious if it's normal for the plug part of the real time clock that plugs into the aquabus high to not seat fully. I'm using the smaller spacers that came with the heatsink but the plug is still a few mms from being flush.

Also, the front plate of my AQ6XT doesn't seem to fit into my caselabs case very well. It fits, but the plate itself is now warping, which doesn't look too great. I'm guessing I need the non-conforming mount caselabs offers?? My 5XT never had this problem.


----------



## DanBr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *InfoSeeker*
> 
> I believe the 5th pin is the cable shielding ground.
> 
> Click here for internal USB cabling pin-out information.
> 
> If you decide to go with the NZXT UI01 (no downside), your best bet may be to buy direct from NZXT. Their price is $19.99 + $4.99 shipping, probably your lowest cost option.
> 
> One minor caveat, step 1 of the included instructions say "Connect this USB connector to a spare internet USB connector on the motherboard with the cable provided"... they mean internal USB connector, not internet USB connector.


thanks
I am probably going to just use the (2) headers I have for the (3) connections. If I need more in the future I will get the NZXT


----------



## tblake

Sorry if this has been answered before, but didn't want to wade through nearly 500 pages of this thread... How would one go about calibrating an MPS400 to run with 13mm/19mm tubing? It looks like the only menu option is 10mm/13mm tubing. How off will my reading be at that setting? I definitely don't want to have to purchase and integrate an external gauge to calibrate the sensor. Would I be better off with the USB High Flow sensor?

Thanks!

Tom


----------



## fast_fate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tblake*
> 
> Sorry if this has been answered before, but didn't want to wade through nearly 500 pages of this thread... How would one go about calibrating an MPS400 to run with 13mm/19mm tubing? It looks like the only menu option is 10mm/13mm tubing. How off will my reading be at that setting? I definitely don't want to have to purchase and integrate an external gauge to calibrate the sensor. Would I be better off with the USB High Flow sensor?
> 
> Thanks!
> 
> Tom


A few of us have uploaded calibration files in the OCN Community Water Cooling Test Thread

If anyone else has done their custom cals, don't forget to share









Calibrating MPS 400 with 1/2" x 3/4 " Bitspower Compression fittings - fast_fate
Calibrating MPS 400 with 1/2" x 3/4 " Bitspower Compression fittings - Costa's Guide
MPS 400 custom calibration settings for Bitspower C47 fittings and 10mm acrylic - Jakusonfire
Calibrating MPS 400 with 3/8" x 5/8 " Bitspower Compression fittings


----------



## zerophase

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> I don't think it's advisable to put two non pwm pumps on a single header regardless of vrm temps.
> 
> You can configure the aquaero to shutdown system based off the aqualis fill sensor but ive just read the sensor itself isnt very stable (i have no experience with it but a flow sensor is a better guage of loop health unless you cant see the water level in your res for some reason).


They're both pwm controlled according to EK. Don't know if it's true pwm, though.

https://shop.ekwb.com/ek-ddc-3-2-pwm-laing-ddc-3-2-pwm


----------



## tblake

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fast_fate*
> 
> A few of us have uploaded calibration files in the OCN Community Water Cooling Test Thread
> 
> If anyone else has done their custom cals, don't forget to share
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Calibrating MPS 400 with 1/2" x 3/4 " Bitspower Compression fittings - fast_fate
> Calibrating MPS 400 with 1/2" x 3/4 " Bitspower Compression fittings - Costa's Guide
> MPS 400 custom calibration settings for Bitspower C47 fittings and 10mm acrylic - Jakusonfire
> Calibrating MPS 400 with 3/8" x 5/8 " Bitspower Compression fittings


Thanks so much!! So if I just upload to the mps400 one of the XML files for 1/2"ID x 3/4"OD tubing I should have a reasonably accurate calibration without needing actual instrumentation?

Tom


----------



## fast_fate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tblake*
> 
> Thanks so much!! So if I just upload to the mps400 one of the XML files for 1/2"ID x 3/4"OD tubing I should have a reasonably accurate calibration without needing actual instrumentation?
> 
> Tom


It is recommended by AC that we should calibrate for the fittings we are using, which in a way is saying that the stock calibrations are very generic and not precisely accurate.
If you have fittings which are close to the size of one of those files, then you'll be good to go with a "_very close is good enough_" piece of mind


----------



## tblake

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fast_fate*
> 
> It is recommended by AC that we should calibrate for the fittings we are using, which in a way is saying that the stock calibrations are very generic and not precisely accurate.
> If you have fittings which are close to the size of one of those files, then you'll be good to go with a "_very close is good enough_" piece of mind


Awesome - I have a mix of Bitspower and EK 1/2" x 3/4" compression fittings. Your XML files plus the other 1/2" x 3/4" files posted used Bitspower fittings, so I'm not going to sweat it. I avoided the High Flow USB sensor for the additional size and potential noise level. It does look like it is more of a "plug and play" sensor though.

Tom


----------



## stanneveld

Yeah that clicky noise is wy i went for a mps400 to, works perect.
Weird thing is that my highflow never made a sound, it just started making sounds when i put it in my new build.
Ah well it was 4 years old or so.
But the sound is so damn annoying


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stanneveld*
> 
> Yeah that clicky noise is wy i went for a mps400 to, works perect.
> Weird thing is that my highflow never made a sound, it just started making sounds when i put it in my new build.
> Ah well it was 4 years old or so.
> But the sound is so damn annoying


It usually does at high flow and can be minimized putting with the faceplate facing up. If you put it with the faceplate facing sideways usually the noise is more pronounced.


----------



## sinnedone

Guys/Gals quick question.

I plan on taking an aquaero 5LT and MPS400 and installing them in another computer (not installed in loop) just to set up the flow sensor so I do not have to keep the flow sensor plugged into the motherboard.

Can I get some tips on where exactly is this setting in the software to accomplish this?

Thanks you


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sinnedone*
> 
> Guys/Gals quick question.
> 
> I plan on taking an aquaero 5LT and MPS400 and installing them in another computer (not installed in loop) just to set up the flow sensor so I do not have to keep the flow sensor plugged into the motherboard.
> 
> Can I get some tips on where exactly is this setting in the software to accomplish this?
> 
> Thanks you


You mean using it connected to the high aquabus port? I would connect via USB, make all the configurations you want, put aquabus priority (instead of USB priority) and save that to the MPS 400. Then you can connect it via Aquabus and all configs will be there.


----------



## sinnedone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> You mean using it connected to the high aquabus port? I would connect via USB, make all the configurations you want, put aquabus priority (instead of USB priority) and save that to the MPS 400. Then you can connect it via Aquabus and all configs will be there.


Yes use it through the aquabus high port on the 5LT.

Initial configurations should just be in the mps configuration menu select mps400 from the dropdown, select pipe fitting size, upload calibration data, change usb priority to aquabus (channel 12) then save with the little floppy icon correct? I've tried this several times and I must be doing something wrong because it's not saving.

When I boot back up with just the aquabus cable plugged in There's a red x in the MPS section.

I guess I can just leave the USB connected to the motherboard from the MPS with no aquabus cable and all will work correct in aquasuite?


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sinnedone*
> 
> Yes use it through the aquabus high port on the 5LT.
> 
> Initial configurations should just be in the mps configuration menu select mps400 from the dropdown, select pipe fitting size, upload calibration data, change usb priority to aquabus (channel 12) then save with the little floppy icon correct? I've tried this several times and I must be doing something wrong because it's not saving.
> 
> When I boot back up with just the aquabus cable plugged in There's a red x in the MPS section.
> 
> I guess I can just leave the USB connected to the motherboard from the MPS with no aquabus cable and all will work correct in aquasuite?


Ah. Got it. Yeah when is using the Aquabus port will not appear as an indepedent device (like in USB) that is why the *Aquasuite* show the red cross over the MPS 400 via USB. The aquabus is now fully integrated under the Aquaero 5 lt menu. Go there and check under system - currently connected aquabus devices. It should be there and if so you should be able to read the flow under sensors.

but yeah, leaving the usb connection is a no problem too. You can if you want.


----------



## sinnedone

Ah ok Thank you. Yes the flow meter section and temperature still show up so I guess its done correctly.


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sinnedone*
> 
> Guys/Gals quick question.
> 
> I plan on taking an aquaero 5LT and MPS400 and installing them in another computer (not installed in loop) just to set up the flow sensor so I do not have to keep the flow sensor plugged into the motherboard.
> 
> Can I get some tips on where exactly is this setting in the software to accomplish this?
> 
> Thanks you


There is no need to move the Aquaero if you are only setting up the flow sensor. It is a standalone device.


----------



## sinnedone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> There is no need to move the Aquaero if you are only setting up the flow sensor. It is a standalone device.


.

I was looking to set up the flow sensor through the aquaero bus instead of motherboard USB header. It would make wiring a little easier for me.


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sinnedone*
> 
> .
> 
> I was looking to set up the flow sensor through the aquaero bus instead of motherboard USB header. It would make wiring a little easier for me.


You don't need the aquaero to set the flow meter. You change the settings and config with usb and save it. Then when it is connected via aquabus to the aquaero later it puts out the correct flow rate.


----------



## sinnedone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> You don't need the aquaero to set the flow meter. You change the settings and config with usb and save it. Then when it is connected via aquabus to the aquaero later it puts out the correct flow rate.


oh OK Thank you. Did not know that.


----------



## iBruce

My Open Hardware Monitor readings stopped working with the W10 install, I guess the same is true for everyone?

Did someone say Shoggy is announcing an update for AquaSuite or just a rumor?









A rare sighting of an Aquaero 6 LT in the wild, they really do exist.









This one only has 12hours of Uptime Total, still in the testing phase, dropping it into an X99/S8S build.

http://s296.photobucket.com/user/iBruceEVGA/media/IMG_3510_zpsnordp5xp.jpg.html

http://s296.photobucket.com/user/iBruceEVGA/media/IMG_3509_zpsgbywvkfs.jpg.html

http://s296.photobucket.com/user/iBruceEVGA/media/IMG_3507_zpsvcsbzjet.jpg.html


----------



## cram501

Open Hardware Monitor stopped working for me in Win 10 although it sounds like it works for some. hwinfo has been working for me in the meantime.


----------



## Kimir

By OHM stopped working on W10, do you mean the program itself or the possibility to get data from it on Aquasuite?


----------



## bkvamme

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iBruce*
> 
> My Open Hardware Monitor readings stopped working with the W10 install, I guess the same is true for everyone?
> 
> Did someone say Shoggy is announcing an update for AquaSuite or just a rumor?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A rare sighting of an Aquaero 6 LT in the wild, they really do exist.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This one only has 12hours of Uptime Total, still in the testing phase, dropping it into an X99/S8S build.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> http://s296.photobucket.com/user/iBruceEVGA/media/IMG_3510_zpsnordp5xp.jpg.html
> 
> http://s296.photobucket.com/user/iBruceEVGA/media/IMG_3509_zpsgbywvkfs.jpg.html
> 
> http://s296.photobucket.com/user/iBruceEVGA/media/IMG_3507_zpsvcsbzjet.jpg.html


I love it! Hope it will be released not too far in the future


----------



## iBruce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kimir*
> 
> By OHM stopped working on W10, do you mean the program itself or the possibility to get data from it on Aquasuite?


The program works on the W10 desktop yet the graphs I had created in the AquaSuite overview pages stopped working (sending data).


----------



## iBruce

Also, picked up an Aquaero 6 XT Blue LED about 3weeks ago, when they first arrived in the US, such a great idea AquaComputer, the blue/black aesthetic is gorgeous. Is this a sign the A6 will remain current for at least one more year?

Don't come to this thread very often, hope it's ok to throw up some picks.









http://s296.photobucket.com/user/iBruceEVGA/media/IMG_3074_zpsqmfzndht.jpg.html

http://s296.photobucket.com/user/iBruceEVGA/media/IMG_3094_zpsebqauvwg.jpg.html

http://s296.photobucket.com/user/iBruceEVGA/media/IMG_3450_zpssbrjef5w.jpg.html

These AC inline-thermal sensors work extremely well with the Aquaero 6, only used three in a transfer soon to be Z170 build, plan on picking up three more for the X99 build, they also look very nice. Thanks Shoggy.









Thinking of going with the new AquaComputer PWM D5 with the "IT Diva circuitry" inside. Did IT Diva work with the AC engineers in collaboration? So the PWM D5 will need a dedicated A6 channel? If so I'll need to add a PowerAdjust 3 to the build. I've read the PowerAdjust 3 standard vs ultra explanation, and I'm still not certain which one to get. Which would work best with the FarbWerk?

http://www.performance-pcs.com/aquacomputer-temperature-sensor-inner-outer-thread-g1-4.html
http://www.performance-pcs.com/featured-products/aquacomputer-d5-pump-motor-with-pwm-input-and-speed-signal.html


----------



## Ironsmack

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iBruce*
> 
> The program works on the W10 desktop yet the graphs I had created in the AquaSuite overview pages stopped working (sending data).


One thing i had to do when i installed Win 10 was to reconfigure my virtual temps. After that, it worked fine.


----------



## cram501

I tried to reconfigure my temps but there are no temperatures to select. hwinfo works so I'm not sure if the issue is OHM or Aquasuite.


----------



## Ninhalem

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kimir*
> 
> By OHM stopped working on W10, do you mean the program itself or the possibility to get data from it on Aquasuite?


Open Hardware Monitor stopped cold turkey for me when I upgraded to Windows 10. I switched to HWInfo, and Aquasuite has been working perfectly ever since.


----------



## tblake

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ninhalem*
> 
> Open Hardware Monitor stopped cold turkey for me when I upgraded to Windows 10. I switched to HWInfo, and Aquasuite has been working perfectly ever since.


OHM stopped working for me under Win10 also. Aida64 works great with Aquasuite and I have switched to that.

Tom


----------



## iBruce

Yep, I just switched over to HWiNFO64 and reconfigured the software sensors, everything came back, except having AquaSuite freeze ups/crashes anytime EVGA Precision X 16 is operating, not certain if that is new for W10 or if they've never played nice together, only had my EVGA card and Precision X for a few days.

My pump seems to increase the water temp in the loop by about 0.1C, not so much, guessing that's normal.

Also, I need to figure how to create a full feature x and y axis chart for the Aquaero 6 front display, not sure how to transfer the information page. Gotta LOVE these Aquaeros, they continue to surprise and impress.









http://s296.photobucket.com/user/iBruceEVGA/media/AquaSuite W10_zps32gkjojv.jpg.html


----------



## Kimir

Ok, good to know about OHM. I admit I haven't really looked about it, I didn't update my Aquasuite since I don't want to update firmware of my AQ6 and have to re-do all my setting. I'll screenshot everything and see about it when I try W10.
I have aida64 anyway, so if it doesn't work no big deal.


----------



## DanBr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iBruce*
> 
> Also, picked up an Aquaero 6 XT Blue LED about 3weeks ago, when they first arrived in the US, such a great idea AquaComputer, the blue/black aesthetic is gorgeous. Is this a sign the A6 will remain current for at least one more year?
> 
> Don't come to this thread very often, hope it's ok to throw up some picks.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://s296.photobucket.com/user/iBruceEVGA/media/IMG_3074_zpsqmfzndht.jpg.html
> 
> http://s296.photobucket.com/user/iBruceEVGA/media/IMG_3094_zpsebqauvwg.jpg.html
> 
> http://s296.photobucket.com/user/iBruceEVGA/media/IMG_3450_zpssbrjef5w.jpg.html
> 
> These AC inline-thermal sensors work extremely well with the Aquaero 6, only used three in a transfer soon to be Z170 build, plan on picking up three more for the X99 build, they also look very nice. Thanks Shoggy.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thinking of going with the new AquaComputer PWM D5 with the "IT Diva circuitry" inside. Did IT Diva work with the AC engineers in collaboration? So the PWM D5 will need a dedicated A6 channel? If so I'll need to add a PowerAdjust 3 to the build. I've read the PowerAdjust 3 standard vs ultra explanation, and I'm still not certain which one to get. Which would work best with the FarbWerk?
> 
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/aquacomputer-temperature-sensor-inner-outer-thread-g1-4.html
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/featured-products/aquacomputer-d5-pump-motor-with-pwm-input-and-speed-signal.html


Is that the pump discharge that has the AC temp sensor on it?
Or is it the CPU waterblock?


----------



## iBruce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DanBr*
> 
> Is that the pump discharge that has the AC temp sensor on it?
> Or is it the CPU waterblock?


Yes DanBr, that's the AquaComputer USB D5 pump output, the EK clear plexi D5 top has a single input in the center and two outputs, the one with the AquaComputer thermal sensor is the radial flow from the pump (I'm guessing is slightly stronger), the other is perpendicular to the radial flow and covered in that photo by an EK black stop plug and EK logo sticker.

Did I do it wrong?









The AquaComputer USB D5 pump and pump top fittings tubing sensor etc all rest by gravity alone on four Sorbothane 3/4inch hemispheres to decouple and render inaudible at 50% Pump Power and below. It came out pretty nice, but next water change I'm moving to smaller fittings and tubing.


----------



## Ironsmack

Im just curious - when you guys say it stopped working, do you mean it doesn't give you any temp reading from OHM or Aquasuite?

I just did a clean install of Win 10 and 2015-6 and at first i didnt see any temp from Aquasuite. If i click on OHM - i can see the temp readings fine.

I had to do the folllowing:

Go to _Software temp sensors_ -> Click on any of the sensors -> check Use _Sensor with Aqua Computer Service_ -> Select data source and select which temp sensor you want to use



If you guys did that - my apologies. Hopefully someone else might find it useful


----------



## iBruce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ironsmack*
> 
> Im just curious - when you guys say it stopped working, do you mean it doesn't give you any temp reading from OHM or Aquasuite?
> 
> I just did a clean install of Win 10 and 2015-6 and at first i didnt see any temp from Aquasuite. If i click on OHM - i can see the temp readings fine.
> 
> I had to do the folllowing:
> 
> Go to _Software temp sensors_ -> Click on any of the sensors -> check Use _Sensor with Aqua Computer Service_ -> Select data source and select which temp sensor you want to use
> 
> 
> 
> If you guys did that - my apologies. Hopefully someone else might find it useful


I tried that, yet after my W10 install within AquaSuite under software sensors > select data source, there was no longer an OHM option, even though it was running fine on the W10 desktop.

Installed HWiNFO64 and that option was present, so got everything back. But then my W10 install so far is just the overlay, I won't move to a clean install until next week, so that might be the issue I was having. Also going to try AIDA64, and see which of the three works best with the A6.

http://s296.photobucket.com/user/iBruceEVGA/media/IMG_3528_zpsrhnvzmkq.jpg.html


----------



## Ironsmack

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iBruce*
> 
> I tried that, yet after my W10 install within AquaSuite under software sensors > select data source, there was no longer an OHM option, even though it was running fine on the W10 desktop.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Installed HWiNFO64 and that option was present, so got everything back. But then my W10 install so far is just the overlay, I won't move to a clean install until next week, so that might be the issue I was having. Also going to try AIDA64, and see which of the three works best with the A6.
> 
> http://s296.photobucket.com/user/iBruceEVGA/media/IMG_3528_zpsrhnvzmkq.jpg.html


Fair enough. Glad you got yours working


----------



## MrPT

Hi there, is there any option to get spare screen for aquaero ?


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iBruce*
> 
> My Open Hardware Monitor readings stopped working with the W10 install, I guess the same is true for everyone?
> 
> Did someone say Shoggy is announcing an update for AquaSuite or just a rumor?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A rare sighting of an Aquaero 6 LT in the wild, they really do exist.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This one only has 12hours of Uptime Total, still in the testing phase, dropping it into an X99/S8S build.


there was one made to my knowledge for a sponsored build, other then that you can easily make your own by just removing the faceplate and display
Quote:


> All these new features have their price... we understand that not everyone needs that massive amount of power so the aquaero 5 series will stay in our assortment of goods. That means the aquaero 6 will not replace the aquaero 5 - it will extend its possibilities. So if you want to enter the world of aquaeros it still starts with 59.90 Euro for the aquaero 5 LT and will end with the aquaero 6 XT as the top-of-the line model for 179.90 Euro. The aquaero 6 will be also available as a PRO version for 149.90 Euro. _*A LT variant of the aquaero 6 will not be available.
> *_(mentioned prices include 19% VAT)


http://forum.aquacomputer.de/weitere-foren/english-forum/103573-new-aquaero-6/
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bkvamme*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *iBruce*
> 
> My Open Hardware Monitor readings stopped working with the W10 install, I guess the same is true for everyone?
> 
> Did someone say Shoggy is announcing an update for AquaSuite or just a rumor?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A rare sighting of an Aquaero 6 LT in the wild, they really do exist.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This one only has 12hours of Uptime Total, still in the testing phase, dropping it into an X99/S8S build.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> http://s296.photobucket.com/user/iBruceEVGA/media/IMG_3510_zpsnordp5xp.jpg.html
> 
> http://s296.photobucket.com/user/iBruceEVGA/media/IMG_3509_zpsgbywvkfs.jpg.html
> 
> http://s296.photobucket.com/user/iBruceEVGA/media/IMG_3507_zpsvcsbzjet.jpg.html
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I love it! Hope it will be released not too far in the future
Click to expand...

it wont shoggy has already made that clear - he said they have no plans !!~
unless something drastic has changed but you can look back in this thread, ac was pretty adamant about it
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iBruce*
> 
> Also, picked up an Aquaero 6 XT Blue LED about 3weeks ago, when they first arrived in the US, such a great idea AquaComputer, the blue/black aesthetic is gorgeous. Is this a sign the A6 will remain current for at least one more year?
> 
> Don't come to this thread very often, hope it's ok to throw up some picks.


they dont change often, but the blue led units come default with the black faceplate ?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrPT*
> 
> Hi there, is there any option to get spare screen for aquaero ?


contact shoggy

i bought mine for 40 usd


----------



## cram501

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ironsmack*
> 
> Fair enough. Glad you got yours working


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ironsmack*
> 
> Im just curious - when you guys say it stopped working, do you mean it doesn't give you any temp reading from OHM or Aquasuite?
> 
> I just did a clean install of Win 10 and 2015-6 and at first i didnt see any temp from Aquasuite. If i click on OHM - i can see the temp readings fine.
> 
> I had to do the folllowing:
> 
> Go to _Software temp sensors_ -> Click on any of the sensors -> check Use _Sensor with Aqua Computer Service_ -> Select data source and select which temp sensor you want to use
> 
> 
> 
> If you guys did that - my apologies. Hopefully someone else might find it useful


There was no data source available until I installed hwinfo. It's working now although some people have seemed to get it working with OHM.


----------



## Mega Man

thats because ohm sucks -- that program has not worked well since i heard of it, since at least when i started with ocn

hwinfo is one million percent better


----------



## Shoggy

Just on a side note: I was on holiday for the last two weeks so I have no overview what is up right now









The problem with Open Hardware Monitor is no problem of the aquasuite. Open Hardware Monitor has problems with Windows 10. To be able to use it as data source the latest beta version 0.7.1 must to be used! -> http://openhardwaremonitor.org/news/release-version-0-7-1-beta/


----------



## Kimir

I thought everyone was using the latest beta already, I mean, if I don't use that one it doesn't recognize anything on my Haswell-E setup;


----------



## Ninhalem

Yeah I was using the latest beta of OHM and it never showed up as a data source in Aqausuite. When I switched to HWInfo, then there was the ability to pull in system data again.


----------



## iBruce

@Mega Man, ok I better come clean about the Aquaero 6 LT.









Yea, its really an Aquaero 6 XT Blue LED I got at PPCS in June when they first came out about 3days after they hit the US market. I took the blue LED front cover OFF and mounted it on my first older Aquaero 6 XT I got way back in December 2013, am using that A6 that has many Uptime Hours Total in a new CaseLabs all gunmetal S8 test bench and soon to be Z170 build mounted up front in the flexbay as an XT.

The new Aquaero 6 XT without the front blue LEDs will be mounted deep within a CaseLabs tri-tone S8S X99 build without the front display as an LT on the midchassis accessory mounting plate, since I went with a very stealth front panel look for the S8S I didn't want a front mounted A6 or front USB and audio ports.

Also purchased two new AquaComputer passive heatsinks in black, replacing the red heatsink on the older A6 (which now has the Blue front LEDs) and another for the new Aquaero 6 with no display at all, I know it confuses me too.









Two Aquaeros in the house.

Also, congratulations on your adorable new baby, we are trying for one beginning in September, hoping for a girl.









http://s296.photobucket.com/user/iBruceEVGA/media/IMG_3138_zpsygkwf7d7.jpg.html


----------



## cram501

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> Just on a side note: I was on holiday for the last two weeks so I have no overview what is up right now
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The problem with Open Hardware Monitor is no problem of the aquasuite. Open Hardware Monitor has problems with Windows 10. To be able to use it as data source the latest beta version 0.7.1 must to be used! -> http://openhardwaremonitor.org/news/release-version-0-7-1-beta/


That has been the version I've been using for a while. I also installed the latest VC Redistributables (http://forum.aquacomputer.de/berwachung-und-steuerung/p1417670-windows-10-preview-link-zu-open-hardware-monitor-klappt-nicht/#post1417670).

Luckily hwinfo is working with Aquasuite fine.


----------



## Shoggy

When downloading the VC Redistributables, make sure that it is the SP1 version.


----------



## fast_fate

wrong thread - sorry


----------



## iBruce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> Just on a side note: I was on holiday for the last two weeks so I have no overview what is up right now
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The problem with Open Hardware Monitor is no problem of the aquasuite. Open Hardware Monitor has problems with Windows 10. To be able to use it as data source the latest beta version 0.7.1 must to be used! -> http://openhardwaremonitor.org/news/release-version-0-7-1-beta/


Yea, I cannot get the OHW beta 0.7.1 recognized by AquaSuite, nor is AquaSuite finding AIDA64 or HWiNFO64 at this point I've lost all contact data. I've uninstalled and reinstalled each of the three recommended data services restarted AS with administrator rights, everything I know, and no positive results.

Really I need to go ahead with a clean W10 install, instead of frustrating myself.









If anyone is looking for some PWM fans that work extremely well with the Aquaero 6, the brand new EK Vardar all black PWM 2200rpm F4 version come highly rated. I'm running mine on channel 4 set to PWM of course at a very low 463rpms 40% power setting.

Plan on getting a few more and replacing some Sanyo Denki Silent Type S fans, the previous EK Vardars arrived with a black frame gray impeller aesthetic which I didn't care for, these are all black and sleeved to the hub in pure black, they also offer a pure white version.

http://s296.photobucket.com/user/iBruceEVGA/media/IMG_3404_zpsk7bgsm1m.jpg.html


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> thats because ohm sucks -- that program has not worked well since i heard of it, since at least when i started with ocn
> 
> hwinfo is one million percent better


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iBruce*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> Just on a side note: I was on holiday for the last two weeks so I have no overview what is up right now
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The problem with Open Hardware Monitor is no problem of the aquasuite. Open Hardware Monitor has problems with Windows 10. To be able to use it as data source the latest beta version 0.7.1 must to be used! -> http://openhardwaremonitor.org/news/release-version-0-7-1-beta/
> 
> 
> 
> Yea, I cannot get the OHW beta 0.7.1 recognized by AquaSuite, nor is AquaSuite finding AIDA64 or HWiNFO64 at this point I've lost all contact data. I've uninstalled and reinstalled each of the three recommended data services restarted AS with administrator rights, everything I know, and no positive results.
> 
> Really I need to go ahead with a clean W10 install, instead of frustrating myself.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If anyone is looking for some PWM fans that work extremely well with the Aquaero 6, the brand new EK Vardar all black PWM 2200rpm F4 version come highly rated. I'm running mine on channel 4 set to PWM of course at a very low 463rpms 40% power setting.
> 
> Plan on getting a few more and replacing some Sanyo Denki Silent Type S fans, the previous EK Vardars arrived with a black frame gray impeller aesthetic which I didn't care for, these are all black and sleeved to the hub in pure black, they also offer a pure white version.
> 
> http://s296.photobucket.com/user/iBruceEVGA/media/IMG_3404_zpsk7bgsm1m.jpg.html
Click to expand...

please see quote 1 about ohm.

As to the fans. I'll keep my pwm gentle typhoon


----------



## zerophase

Hey, if I'm installing the clock on the aq 6 xt with heatsink does it need the screw spacers?

Is it safe to have the battery in during a leak test? Power is only going to the pump.


----------



## Shoggy

To be able to install the RTC you have to use the cylindrical spacers that came with the heatsink. If the battery is installed or not makes no difference.


----------



## zerophase

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> To be able to install the RTC you have to use the cylindrical spacers that came with the heatsink. If the battery is installed or not makes no difference.


Is this what the heatsink spacer looks like? 

Found what I believe is them.


Just drop them on after the heatsink?

By the way, I noticed the screws that come with the water block fit through the heatsink. I heard I was supposed to use the short screws that came with the heatsink. Would the water block screws cause a short?


----------



## Shoggy

Just stick to the installation manual:

passive_heatsink_aquaero_6.pdf 156k .pdf file


----------



## zerophase

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> Just stick to the installation manual:
> 
> passive_heatsink_aquaero_6.pdf 156k .pdf file


Thanks, looks like I installed it correctly.


----------



## Dagamus NM

At long last my Dimastech EasyXL based calculator is up and running. Aquaero 6XT for the controls. I would post a pic of it running but one of the EK rotary 90's decided it wanted to pee on my motherboard and PCIe slot so I am letting it dry out for the weekend.

Darlene turned me onto the Dimastech test bench. Love it. Their customer service is lacking. They still owe four 140mm fan holders and two vertical pump stands. I have given up on ever seeing those.



Yes it has some cosmetic work remaining. I need two more SSD trays for the six Intel 730 series to be secure. Wires, wires, wires. Runs nice and cool though with the two push/pull Aqua Computer 420mm radiators.


----------



## Mega Man

I would not give up. Pester them


----------



## Archea47

Thank you Diva!


----------



## deeph

Hi,

I have bought 'Pump adapter for D5 pumps for aqualis base with fill level sensor, G1/4' and I saw that there is 'delta 40' inside. Instead of using it as a fill sensor, can I use it as a pressure sensor?

Thanks
deeph


----------



## Dagamus NM

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> I would not give up. Pester them


Well their phones are disconnected in both the U.S. and Italy, they don't respond to emails other than to say we will have to check with the U.S. warehouse.


----------



## zerophase

Hey, will I need the diffusion plate to use the mps 400 with a swiftech vga fitting?

I can vary the the fitting from 11 to 18mm in length. Will the bend before hand effect the accuracy of the mps 400?


----------



## fast_fate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zerophase*
> 
> Hey, will I need the diffusion plate to use the mps 400 with a swiftech vga fitting?
> 
> I can vary the the fitting from 11 to 18mm in length. Will the bend before hand effect the accuracy of the mps 400?
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Don't forget the installation note for MSP 400
"_Installation note_:
_For an accurate measurement we recommend to use a straight piece of tubing with a min. length of 5 cm before and after the sensor. The sensor itself should not be equipped with angled fittings_."

Can't advise on diffusion plate


----------



## zerophase

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fast_fate*
> 
> Don't forget the installation note for MSP 400
> "_Installation note_:
> _For an accurate measurement we recommend to use a straight piece of tubing with a min. length of 5 cm before and after the sensor. The sensor itself should not be equipped with angled fittings_."
> 
> Can't advise on diffusion plate


For the inline temperature sensor does the orientation of inlet and outlet matter? It has a silver and black side.

I just measured the diameter of the fitting. I think its diameter is just below the recommended size for not using the diffusion plate. I'll toss it in just in case. If it turns out I don't actually need the diffusion plate, will it have a negative effect on the accuracy of readings?


----------



## fast_fate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zerophase*
> 
> For the inline temperature sensor does the orientation of inlet and outlet matter? It has a silver and black side.
> 
> I just measured the diameter of the fitting. I think its diameter is just below the recommended size for not using the diffusion plate. I'll toss it in just in case. If it turns out I don't actually need the diffusion plate, will it have a negative effect on the accuracy of readings?


Temp sensor orientation doesn't matter









The diffuser plate (I've not had to use) I imagine is for getting the most accuracy out of the stock calibration.
I guess you have seen the table below then, and your fittings are smaller than 10mm ID ?
If so, then you should put the plate in I suppose.
If fitting ID is 10mm or larger, then don't put the diffuser plate in.


----------



## zerophase

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fast_fate*
> 
> Temp sensor orientation doesn't matter
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The diffuser plate (I've not had to use) I imagine is for getting the most accuracy out of the stock calibration.
> I guess you have seen the table below then, and your fittings are smaller than 10mm ID ?
> If so, then you should put the plate in I suppose.
> If fitting ID is 10mm or larger, then don't put the diffuser plate in.


I'll leave it out. I'm just going to confirm my radiators aren't pierced, and order 50mm fittings with the right id. It's actually kind of hard to get the diffuser plate to screw in.


----------



## Captaincaveman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Archea47*
> 
> Thank you Diva!


did you follow her guide? or did she start selling them?


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Captaincaveman*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Archea47*
> 
> Thank you Diva!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> did you follow her guide? or did she start selling them?
Click to expand...

I didn't make that one, but it looks like I see yellow wires coming from the 12V source, (pin2) not sure if I see black wired from pin 1.

I'd like to know if he's using the A6 to supply power to pumps from that 1 channel,

Pumps should be getting power from the PSU via the Molex, not the Aquaero.

Darlene


----------



## Archea47

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Captaincaveman*
> 
> did you follow her guide? or did she start selling them?


I took the: find Diva's mythical guide, buy hundreds of resistors and diodes, give guide and resistors and Ycable for PWM pumps to EE at work, ... profit, route


----------



## Archea47

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> I didn't make that one, but it looks like I see yellow wires coming from the 12V source, (pin2) not sure if I see black wired from pin 1.
> 
> I'd like to know if he's using the A6 to supply power to pumps from that 1 channel,
> 
> Pumps should be getting power from the PSU via the Molex, not the Aquaero.
> 
> Darlene


Hi Darlene,

Thanks for the input!

This is a Y cable, with the harness you see going to the Aquaero. I believe this is somewhat identical to your guide. The cable connects both PWM D5s but only two wires - separate molex for power as you mentioned.

Can you elaborate on what appears to be wrong with the current pinout?


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Archea47*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> I didn't make that one, but it looks like I see yellow wires coming from the 12V source, (pin2) not sure if I see black wired from pin 1.
> 
> I'd like to know if he's using the A6 to supply power to pumps from that 1 channel,
> 
> Pumps should be getting power from the PSU via the Molex, not the Aquaero.
> 
> Darlene
> 
> 
> 
> Hi Darlene,
> 
> Thanks for the input!
> 
> This is a Y cable, with the harness you see going to the Aquaero. I believe this is somewhat identical to your guide. The cable connects both PWM D5s but only two wires - separate molex for power as you mentioned.
> 
> Can you elaborate on what appears to be wrong with the current pinout?
Click to expand...



The pic is rather fuzzy and not very clear, . . . . there may not be anything "wrong", the other end of the cable isn't in the pic so I can't offer an assessment . . . .

Can you post better pics with both ends, please . . . .

I'm just not understanding why I see yellow wires on the +12V pin, and possibly black wires on the Gnd pin . . . . They don't need to be there, if in fact that's what I see.

For a dual pump setup, you only need 2 PWM wires and 1 tach wire.

I also do not see a tach wire in the pin 3 position, . . .not sure if it's not there, or just not a good enough pic to see it.

Are those yellow wires from the tach pins at the pumps?

Below is one I made for testing with dual pump setups, and this one does have 2 tach wires, so that either pump could be selected to report rpm.

The pump not selected to report rpm, would have to have its tach wire removed from its 4 pin connector.

You can only have 1 pump return the rpm signal, if you have multiple rpm signals, you don't get a stable or accurate reading.


----------



## Archea47

Hi Darlene,

Ok, I think we're in agreement







. Sorry for the poor quality pic, hopefully this one is more descriptive


I do understand that I only need PWM and RPM to the pumps from the AQ6. The pumps only have the RPM and PWM on the fan harness so I didn't think is problematic to leave the extra wires in the cable


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Archea47*
> 
> Hi Darlene,
> 
> Ok, I think we're in agreement
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Sorry for the poor quality pic, hopefully this one is more descriptive
> 
> 
> I do understand that I only need PWM and RPM to the pumps from the AQ6. The pumps only have the RPM and PWM on the fan harness so I didn't think is problematic to leave the extra wires in the cable


Much better . . . .

Looks like you'll be OK.

No problem leaving the yellow and black wires since nothing is connected to them, . . .just that their presence is confusing and makes it hard to see the other connections clearly.

D.


----------



## Archea47

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Much better . . . .
> 
> Looks like you'll be OK.
> 
> No problem leaving the yellow and black wires since nothing is connected to them, . . .just that their presence is confusing and makes it hard to see the other connections clearly.
> 
> D.


Thanks so much Diva

My fiance is under the knife right now for some foot surgery. Going to initialize the Aquaero and MPS while she's bed ridden. Actually there's a mattress in the garage, perhaps she can join me out there too while I'm doing the final painting for Daedalic

Also need to deburr my £10 ebay 10mm copper pipe bender :/


----------



## gdubc

Mattress in the garage...this sounds dirty.


----------



## sinnedone

Quick question about the aquasuite software.

Is there a way to make like a desktop link/widget to quickly turn on/off a switch without having to open up the program?


----------



## Shoggy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sinnedone*
> 
> Quick question about the aquasuite software.
> 
> Is there a way to make like a desktop link/widget to quickly turn on/off a switch without having to open up the program?


Can be done by creating a batch file and using the command line tool.

(Not sure if the current aquasuite already had a bug fixed with this command line tool, otherwise you have to wait for the next version.)


----------



## zerophase

I'm trying to figure out which length of fittings to get to give me 5 cm of length prior to the mps 400. What's the length from port to port on the female threaded inline temperature sensor?


----------



## jeanspaulo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> 
> 
> The pic is rather fuzzy and not very clear, . . . . there may not be anything "wrong", the other end of the cable isn't in the pic so I can't offer an assessment . . . .
> 
> Can you post better pics with both ends, please . . . .
> 
> I'm just not understanding why I see yellow wires on the +12V pin, and possibly black wires on the Gnd pin . . . . They don't need to be there, if in fact that's what I see.
> 
> For a dual pump setup, you only need 2 PWM wires and 1 tach wire.
> 
> I also do not see a tach wire in the pin 3 position, . . .not sure if it's not there, or just not a good enough pic to see it.
> 
> Are those yellow wires from the tach pins at the pumps?
> 
> Below is one I made for testing with dual pump setups, and this one does have 2 tach wires, so that either pump could be selected to report rpm.
> 
> The pump not selected to report rpm, would have to have its tach wire removed from its 4 pin connector.
> 
> You can only have 1 pump return the rpm signal, if you have multiple rpm signals, you don't get a stable or accurate reading.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Archea47*
> 
> Thanks so much Diva
> 
> My fiance is under the knife right now for some foot surgery. Going to initialize the Aquaero and MPS while she's bed ridden. Actually there's a mattress in the garage, perhaps she can join me out there too while I'm doing the final painting for Daedalic
> 
> Also need to deburr my £10 ebay 10mm copper pipe bender :/


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Much better . . . .
> 
> Looks like you'll be OK.
> 
> No problem leaving the yellow and black wires since nothing is connected to them, . . .just that their presence is confusing and makes it hard to see the other connections clearly.
> 
> D.


Hello guys, I'm about to build my own version of this cable. But I'm a total newbie on this so could anyone post a pic of the cable terminals without the housing so I can see the connection of the components (diode and resistors) to each cable and pin?? please, this will help me a lot.

Thanks


----------



## jvillaveces

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> Just on a side note: I was on holiday for the last two weeks so I have no overview what is up right now
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The problem with Open Hardware Monitor is no problem of the aquasuite. Open Hardware Monitor has problems with Windows 10. To be able to use it as data source the latest beta version 0.7.1 must to be used! -> http://openhardwaremonitor.org/news/release-version-0-7-1-beta/


I have been getting a warning from Norton Security every time I try to visit the aquacomputer.de site, saying there is a virus:


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Much better . . . .
> 
> Looks like you'll be OK.
> 
> No problem leaving the yellow and black wires since nothing is connected to them, . . .just that their presence is confusing and makes it hard to see the other connections clearly.
> 
> D.


Hey Diva, I have been wondering if it's possible, or if you have tried, to move these mods into the body of the pump rather than the connector?
Do you think that is what aquacomp did with their version of the d5 pwm?


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jvillaveces*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> Just on a side note: I was on holiday for the last two weeks so I have no overview what is up right now
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The problem with Open Hardware Monitor is no problem of the aquasuite. Open Hardware Monitor has problems with Windows 10. To be able to use it as data source the latest beta version 0.7.1 must to be used! -> http://openhardwaremonitor.org/news/release-version-0-7-1-beta/
> 
> 
> 
> I have been getting a warning from Norton Security every time I try to visit the aquacomputer.de site, saying there is a virus:
Click to expand...

I have not had any pip ups and I am using Nortan atm..

But I aggressively use adblock


----------



## Archea47

Clean bill of health from virustotal and Cisco


----------



## DanBr

I loaded the Aqua suite software, and connected the MPS400 via to the computer with USB. I opened the software and can't find the MPS anywhere. I clicked on the Plus symbol bottom left of page and all I get is a box that says System/Custom Control or Log data chart.. I do not get the MPS drop down that would give me any other choices.
I thought I could set the zero flow setting, but I don't even see it
Dan

From an earlier post I was told
"you can connect the mps 400 to another pc (laptop) and do the calibration. But if you run on usb would be simpler. A lot of boards keep power on usb even when the pc is off. Certainly all the x79 and x99 boards I have."


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DanBr*
> 
> I loaded the Aqua suite software, and connected the MPS400 via to the computer with USB. I opened the software and can't find it anywhere. I clicked on the Plus symbol bottom left of page and all I get is a box that says System/Custom Control or Log data chart.. I do not get the MPS drop down that would give me any other choices.
> I thought I could set the zero flow setting, but I don't even see it
> Dan


Have you connected both ends of the cable in the proper orientation? Black wires go to the inner side of the MPS 400 and red on the external side. Black wires go to the USB 2 port where there is a missing pin (5 top/4 bottom on the USB 2).


----------



## Jakusonfire

If the mps device tab isn't there it likely isn't being detected properly. If you go to devices and printers do you have a device called mps?

Just check connections and maybe restart the system.


----------



## DanBr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> If the mps device tab isn't there it likely isn't being detected properly. If you go to devices and printers do you have a device called mps?
> 
> Just check connections and maybe restart the system.


No I do not have it listed.
I bought one of the Akasa cables, but I have no way of knowing if it is good
I have restarted and tried a second computer

I am hooked up just with the USB cable and only the Aquasuite software, I am not using the Aquaero 6

How can I check if the MPS is not defective.
could I hook up the AQ6 and connect the MPS to the High port on the AQ6?
Would that show it?

If this new cable is bad, I guess the only way to see the MPS would be on the front panel of the Aq6


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Much better . . . .
> 
> Looks like you'll be OK.
> 
> No problem leaving the yellow and black wires since nothing is connected to them, . . .just that their presence is confusing and makes it hard to see the other connections clearly.
> 
> D.
> 
> 
> 
> Hey Diva, I have been wondering if it's possible, or if you have tried, to move these mods into the body of the pump rather than the connector?
> Do you think that is what aquacomp did with their version of the d5 pwm?
Click to expand...

Hard to say what AC did, since I don't have one of their pumps to reverse engineer.

I've also not tried to reverse engineer the other brands of PWM D5 to see what was done to implement them running at 60%, instead of the usual 100% when there is no PWM connection.

Could be AC did the Diva mod, or something like it, and could be they Undid whatever causes the pumps to run at 60% . . . and could be too, that they are a big enough buyer to get Lang to make them to their spec.

I haven't tried putting the bits inside the pump, since it's so easy to put them at a connector, either the pump's connector or an extension cable's connector.


----------



## Gabrielzm

@IT Diva and @Jakusonfire. Just pop open my PWM d5. will take shots and post here but my camera is not here right now. I can see a special thing on the green wire (the pwm wire) with two "resistors" like (both green too) soldered to the pcb.

@DanBr, as I said before most likely the USB cable is not connected properly. Can you take a shot of the usb wire plugged to mps 400 and motherboard?

edit - shots will be here in 5 or 6 hours...


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> @IT Diva and @Jakusonfire. Just pop open my PWM d5. will take shots and post here but my camera is not here right now. I can see a special thing on the green wire (the pwm wire) with two "resistors" like (both green too) soldered to the pcb.
> 
> @DanBr, as I said before most likely the USB cable is not connected properly. Can you take a shot of the usb wire plugged to mps 400 and motherboard?


Ahhh great! good on you, I have been trying to get a shot of the internals for a while now. I have a theory as to why the pumps run at 60% with no signal but I really need to get my hands on a couple of these PWM D5's

Just based on Aquacomp and Laing/Xylem's history with these things I think a truly new or custom design is unlikely but it will be great to get a look.


----------



## DanBr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> @IT Diva and @Jakusonfire. Just pop open my PWM d5. will take shots and post here but my camera is not here right now. I can see a special thing on the green wire (the pwm wire) with two "resistors" like (both green too) soldered to the pcb.
> 
> @DanBr, as I said before most likely the USB cable is not connected properly. Can you take a shot of the usb wire plugged to mps 400 and motherboard?


Here is the cable i purchased
http://www.microcenter.com/product/354628/1575%22_Internal_Male_USB_Header_to_External_Type_A_Connector
It is only 4 wire and I have connected it to the Aqua 5 wire USB cable
I have Red/white/green/black matching the same on the Aqua cable, with 1 black unmatched

That cable is connected per instructions with the Red cable on Pin 1 of the MPS


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DanBr*
> 
> Here is the cable i purchased
> http://www.microcenter.com/product/354628/1575%22_Internal_Male_USB_Header_to_External_Type_A_Connector
> It is only 4 wire and I have connected it to the Aqua 5 wire USB cable
> I have Red/white/green/black matching the same on the Aqua cable, with 1 black unmatched
> 
> That cable is connected per instructions with the Red cable on Pin 1 of the MPS


Well that is quite similar to what I use to connect to my laptop ... except I use a single cable USB to female dupont 5 pin. (Same as yours but female pins on the internal header end of the cable)

The only other thing I can think is you may be running into signal quality issues with two cables making a long length and the shielding not being powered. I have used long cables plenty of times though.
With my little external cable I can even just hotplug the Aquaero and MPS devices into USB ports and they will instantly show in Aquasuite so i can't see why there should be an issue.


----------



## DanBr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> Well that is quite similar to what I use to connect to my laptop ... except I use a single cable USB to female dupont 5 pin. (Same as yours but female pins on the internal header end of the cable)
> 
> The only other thing I can think is you may be running into signal quality issues with two cables making a long length and the shielding not being powered. I have used long cables plenty of times though.
> With my little external cable I can even just hotplug the Aquaero and MPS devices into USB ports and they will instantly show in Aquasuite so i can't see why there should be an issue.


Could the MSP be defective? Do I need the fifth pin in my cable?

Can I try this,
could I hook up power to the AQ6 and connect the MPS to the High port on the AQ6?
Would that show it?
Would I be able to see it on the front panel of the Aq6?


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DanBr*
> 
> Could the MSP be defective? Do I need the fifth pin in my cable?
> 
> Can I try this,
> could I hook up power to the AQ6 and connect the MPS to the High port on the AQ6?
> Would that show it?
> Would I be able to see it on the front panel of the Aq6?


It could be defective that is of course always a possibility. The 5th pin is not vital. I use 4 pin cables and extensions regularly.

You can connect it via aquabus to the aquaero but it will just show up in the aquaero menus and the usb functionality could still be defective. I have a device that works fine on aquabus but not usb. That would mean no ability to change settings.


----------



## DanBr

Cables????
The Aquabus "Y" cable (part number 53124) is a 4 pin cable
The Aquabus RPM signal cable (part number 93111) that came with the MPS 400 is a 3 pin cable

Is the RPM cable the correct cable to connect to the 4 pin "Y" cable that will connect to the High port on the Aq6

The colors do not match up.
On the 4 pin cable it is Black/Green/Yellow from the end
On the 3 pin RPM cable it is Black/red/yellow from the same end

The MPS 400 has a 4 pin male Aquabus connector
WHY DO THEY SHIP IT WITH A 3 PIN CABLE
Should I just us a 4 pin fan cable

Since I can't seem to get the MPS 400 to show up I don't want to hook up anything else wrong


----------



## DanBr

Well I ordered this MPS400 from Aquatuning in Germany. I sent them an email.


----------



## DanBr

I connected the pump via USB and I now see a device listed on the left side of screen MPS, but when I click configure I see a drop down that seems to list
a lot of things that correlate to the flow sensor and (1) D5 pump.

How do I give the pump an unique address? Is it here?


Why does the aquabus address not go below 12?
How do I know that the pump is now 12?

Is the left side supposed to say mps?


Is the only configuration for the pump the power?

Thanks


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DanBr*
> 
> .


yes. 12 is the default. You can raise the address to something else (13 or 14). It does not go below 12. And yes the d5 is a MPS device and so it is the flow meters. About the MPS 400 are you sure the external usb port is alive? Did you plug a pen drive on it to check if its working. Sometimes the MB have the options to disable some ports or we just forget to plug the internal cable that gives the case usb port connectivity.


----------



## DanBr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> yes. 12 is the default. You can raise the address to something else (13 or 14). It does not go below 12. And yes the d5 is a MPS device and so it is the flow meters. About the MPS 400 are you sure the external usb port is alive? Did you plug a pen drive on it to check if its working. Sometimes the MB have the options to disable some ports or we just forget to plug the internal cable that gives the case usb port connectivity.


When I hooked up the Pump, windows said loading drivers for new USB device and then I could see it in the software
I never got that from the flow meter

I am re reading the Nams guides and figuring some of this out.
I hooked up the pump via the same connection on the MB and I see it, but when I go back to the flow meter it is not visible and the usb icon in the Aquasuite has an X on it, like no USB connected

I might have FUBARed this or maybe just got a bad one

I deleted my last post as I was finding the answers to those questions from Nams
thanks again
dan

I opened up this computer and hooked directly to the USB header.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DanBr*
> 
> When I hooked up the Pump, windows said loading drivers for new USB device and then I could see it in the software
> I never got that from the flow meter
> 
> I am re reading the Nams guides and figuring some of this out.
> I hooked up the pump via the same connection on the MB and I see it, but when I go back to the flow meter it is not visible and the usb icon in the Aquasuite has an X on it, like no USB connected
> 
> I might have FUBARed this or maybe just got a bad one
> 
> I deleted my last post as I was finding the answers to those questions from Nams
> thanks again
> dan
> 
> I opened up this computer and hooked directly to the USB header.


when the device is connected for the first time the aquasuite will recognize the mps. So, if you have 3 or 4 different mps devices all of them will be named mps. The one you see with the red cross is the d5 that you manage to connect. You can latter name them differently like "USB d5 pump" or whatever you want.

edit - also, do not delete older posts, specially when people reply to it quoting it. Also avoid double (triple) posts and try to edit a previous post if no one have replied since you last posted


----------



## DanBr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> when the device is connected for the first time the aquasuite will recognize the mps. So, if you have 3 or 4 different mps devices all of them will be named mps. The one you see with the red cross is the d5 that you manage to connect. You can latter name them differently like "USB d5 pump" or whatever you want.
> 
> edit - also, do not delete older posts, specially when people reply to it quoting it. Also avoid double posts and try to edit an previous post if no one have replied since you last posted


But I still think the flow meter is not working as I never saw it in the software and when I connect it, it does not show up in the device menu on windows like the pump did

I was trying to save someone/you from answering something I had figured out. I ask so many questions that I was just trying to give everyone a little break









I found out I could restore that post, thanks for clarifying the forum guidelines

Dan


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DanBr*
> 
> But I still think the flow meter is not working as I never saw it in the software and when I connect it, it does not show up in the device menu on windows like the pump did
> 
> I was trying to save someone/you from answering something I had figured out. I ask so many questions that I was just trying to give everyone a little break
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I found out I could restore that post, thanks for clarifying the forum guidelines
> 
> Dan


So from everything you have mentioned with the pump showing up but not the flow meter it certainly sounds like the flow meters usb interface controller is dead.
It seems like possibly connecting the USB plug around the wing way or one pin over from where it should be can sometimes be enough to kill it. A poweradjust of mine has a dead USB interface and I'm not sure how it happened.

For the aquabus questions ...
Mps addresses can't go below 12 because those addresses are used by other devices. Eg 10 and 11 are used by aquastream pumps.
Don't worry about colours on the aquabus/rpm cables. The 3 pin cable that comes standard can be used as aquabus or alarm/rpm cables. Yes they can connect to the 4 pin splitter cable.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Here we go folks and @Jakusonfire in particular. a shot of the PWM d5 pcb from Aqua:



high resolution clicking on the image on imgur. Notice what seems to be two diodes on the pcb/green wire.


----------



## Shoggy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jvillaveces*
> 
> I have been getting a warning from Norton Security every time I try to visit the aquacomputer.de site, saying there is a virus:


You can ignore that. It is a false alarm.


----------



## DanBr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> So from everything you have mentioned with the pump showing up but not the flow meter it certainly sounds like the flow meters usb interface controller is dead.
> It seems like possibly connecting the USB plug around the wing way or one pin over from where it should be can sometimes be enough to kill it. A poweradjust of mine has a dead USB interface and I'm not sure how it happened.
> 
> For the aquabus questions ...
> Mps addresses can't go below 12 because those addresses are used by other devices. Eg 10 and 11 are used by aquastream pumps.
> Don't worry about colours on the aquabus/rpm cables. The 3 pin cable that comes standard can be used as aquabus or alarm/rpm cables. Yes they can connect to the 4 pin splitter cable.


thanks,
Is there any funtionality of the MPS 400 that would still work if I choose Aquaero priority? (not USB priority)
If not I guess I will have to order another MPS 400.
As I am looking at the Aquasuite software and I see many alarm settings, pressure, flow etc. What actually happens if an alarm setting is reached? Is it an audible alarm?
Does the program pop up over whatever you are doing so you can address it? Does it shut down the computer (without the mods that Diva shows a couple of posts up)
Dan


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DanBr*
> 
> thanks,
> I guess I will have to order another MPS 400.
> As I am looking at the Aquasuite software and I see many alarm settings, pressure, flow etc. What actually happens if an alarm setting is reached? Is it an audible alarm?
> Does the program pop up over whatever you are doing so you can address it? Does it shut down the computer (without the mods that Diva shows a couple of posts up)
> Dan


The alarms are fully configurable. First you set what well trigger an alarm, like flow rate or rpm, then you set what level of alarm is triggered by that variable, then each alarm level can be set to trigger different actions from audible beeps to shutting the system down. So, you can set many individual triggers, many alarm levels and many alarm actions all at once.

It can be as simple or as complicated as you make it.


----------



## DanBr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> The alarms are fully configurable. First you set what well trigger an alarm, like flow rate or rpm, then you set what level of alarm is triggered by that variable, then each alarm level can be set to trigger different actions from audible beeps to shutting the system down. So, you can set many individual triggers, many alarm levels and many alarm actions all at once.
> 
> It can be as simple or as complicated as you make it.


thanks
It all seems pretty complicated so far








Hoping it will get easier as i go along
dan


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DanBr*
> 
> thanks
> It all seems pretty complicated so far
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hoping it will get easier as i go along
> dan


Everyone is intimidated by the complexity at first ... It's totally normal.
After a little while of just playing with it you will see how the system works and everything becomes much easier to understand and use. The core functionality is quite straightforward.

Asking questions is great, ask lots if it helps, but the quickest and best path to Aquaero expertise is to jump in and muck around with it. See what every single thing does when clicked.


----------



## DanBr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> Everyone is intimidated by the complexity at first ... It's totally normal.
> After a little while of just playing with it you will see how the system works and everything becomes much easier to understand and use. The core functionality is quite straightforward.
> 
> Asking questions is great, ask lots if it helps, but the quickest and best path to Aquaero expertise is to jump in and muck around with it. See what every single thing does when clicked.


I will ask as I get this build finished and actually hook everything up.
I am pretty sure I "mucked up" the MPS 400, might have plugged in wrong initially.
Would love to say it was just defective, but not sure that would be the truth
Hurts buying another one, but live and learn
Dan


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DanBr*
> 
> I will ask as I get this build finished and actually hook everything up.
> I am pretty sure I "mucked up" the MPS 400, might have plugged in wrong initially.
> Would love to say it was just defective, but not sure that would be the truth
> Hurts buying another one, but live and learn
> Dan


Contact Aquacomp support man. At the very least they can sell you a new sensor board for lots less than a whole new unit. They are quite easy to replace.
They might even just give you one. It's worth finding out.

One of my MPS meters leaked when I got it and they sent me a new board for nothing, even though I asked to buy it. Took 2 mins to fix. Their support is really quite good if you just get on to them.


----------



## DanBr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> Contact Aquacomp support man. At the very least they can sell you a new sensor board for lots less than a whole new unit. They are quite easy to replace.
> They might even just give you one. It's worth finding out.
> 
> One of my MPS meters leaked when I got it and they sent me a new board for nothing. Took 2 mins to fix. Their support is really quite good if you just get on to them.


Wow, did not know that was even possible. I will ask to purchase a new board and see what they say
Might have to ask you how to install it though








Dan


----------



## DanBr

If I am hooking up the pump and/or the MPS400 with USB to the motherboard, can they be connected to the Aquaero 6 high port at the same time?
Don't want to burn up anything else.
Dan

Post over in Aquatuning thread said this
Since i use a 4 pin cable witch has 5v on it i never connect the USB and the Aquabus at the same time, dono if it does bad things i just dont like it.


----------



## Jakusonfire

I have my devices hooked into usb and 4pin aquabus all the time. It's totally fine.


----------



## headbass

can I use non-temperature sensors to setup controllers for my fans?

I want my fans to spin slower when not gaming and faster when gaming (I don't think I use any cpu intensive programs apart from games)

When I want to setup a controller aquasuite only offers me the aquaero sensors and the software sensors and to create a new software sensor aquasuite only offers me the temperature sensors from both aida and hwinfo

I have CPU+GPU loop so the easiest would be to use the GPU core clock sensor but can't seem to get aquasuite to use it as a software sensor....I am using the gpu clock in graphs in my aquasuite page but can't find a way how to use it to control my fans

my overview page (have the aquaero for a week and a bit and didn't have that much time to create something, takes some time and is still work in progress)

it's friggin hot here, having 30 celsium ambient -went to eat sthg and kept some movie paused so the gpu clock kept at 1100 (on both cards) so it went quite hot on just 400-500rpm (which I want to use as idle)
for gaming I use 1000rpm but I haven't set up the controllers yet

I'd prefer to use something else then temps as the temperatures depend a lot on the ambient....currently we have the hottest days (up to 37 degrees) so once the outside temps drops the temps of my system will go down accordingly, therefore it doesn't make much sense to setup the controllers on temps


----------



## DanBr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> I have my devices hooked into usb and 4pin aquabus all the time. It's totally fine.


thanks
Dan


----------



## fast_fate

Just want to check, even though I'm reasonably certain that I'm OK to go...

When using the Aquaero outside of a PC - does it makes sense to be able use a wall socket USB charger to connect to the Aquaero's USB header for standby power.
or is separate grounds going to create issues in this scanario.
I'm setting up a new testing rig and want to keep the Aquaero settings when I have turn-off the power supply for other necessities.

EDIT - should have noted with diodes in line from both power sources in the above set-up.
Guess my other option is the DTDP relay with 12v for coil from the PSU, and hope that switching time is fast enough to not glitch the Aquaero
















.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DanBr*
> 
> Cables????
> The Aquabus "Y" cable (part number 53124) is a 4 pin cable
> The Aquabus RPM signal cable (part number 93111) that came with the MPS 400 is a 3 pin cable
> 
> Is the RPM cable the correct cable to connect to the 4 pin "Y" cable that will connect to the High port on the Aq6
> 
> The colors do not match up.
> On the 4 pin cable it is Black/Green/Yellow from the end
> On the 3 pin RPM cable it is Black/red/yellow from the same end
> 
> The MPS 400 has a 4 pin male Aquabus connector
> WHY DO THEY SHIP IT WITH A 3 PIN CABLE
> Should I just us a 4 pin fan cable
> 
> Since I can't seem to get the MPS 400 to show up I don't want to hook up anything else wrong


you use the 4pin when you do not plug in usb the 4th pin brings power
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DanBr*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> Everyone is intimidated by the complexity at first ... It's totally normal.
> After a little while of just playing with it you will see how the system works and everything becomes much easier to understand and use. The core functionality is quite straightforward.
> 
> Asking questions is great, ask lots if it helps, but the quickest and best path to Aquaero expertise is to jump in and muck around with it. See what every single thing does when clicked.
> 
> 
> 
> I will ask as I get this build finished and actually hook everything up.
> I am pretty sure I "mucked up" the MPS 400, might have plugged in wrong initially.
> Would love to say it was just defective, but not sure that would be the truth
> Hurts buying another one, but live and learn
> Dan
Click to expand...

yea i figured i have done it as well :/
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *headbass*
> 
> can I use non-temperature sensors to setup controllers for my fans?
> 
> I want my fans to spin slower when not gaming and faster when gaming (I don't think I use any cpu intensive programs apart from games)
> 
> When I want to setup a controller aquasuite only offers me the aquaero sensors and the software sensors and to create a new software sensor aquasuite only offers me the temperature sensors from both aida and hwinfo
> 
> I have CPU+GPU loop so the easiest would be to use the GPU core clock sensor but can't seem to get aquasuite to use it as a software sensor....I am using the gpu clock in graphs in my aquasuite page but can't find a way how to use it to control my fans
> 
> my overview page (have the aquaero for a week and a bit and didn't have that much time to create something, takes some time and is still work in progress)
> it's friggin hot here, having 30 celsium ambient -went to eat sthg and kept some movie paused so the gpu clock kept at 1100 (on both cards) so it went quite hot on just 400-500rpm (which I want to use as idle)
> for gaming I use 1000rpm but I haven't set up the controllers yet
> 
> I'd prefer to use something else then temps as the temperatures depend a lot on the ambient....currently we have the hottest days (up to 37 degrees) so once the outside temps drops the temps of my system will go down accordingly, therefore it doesn't make much sense to setup the controllers on temps


you can make 2 separate profiles and just activate them when you want to switch !~
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fast_fate*
> 
> Just want to check, even though I'm reasonably certain that I'm OK to go...
> 
> When using the Aquaero outside of a PC - does it makes sense to be able use a wall socket USB charger to connect to the Aquaero's USB header for standby power.
> or is separate grounds going to create issues in this scanario.
> I'm setting up a new testing rig and want to keep the Aquaero settings when I have turn-off the power supply for other necessities.
> 
> EDIT - should have noted with diodes in line from both power sources in the above set-up.
> Guess my other option is the DTDP relay with 12v for coil from the PSU, and hope that switching time is fast enough to not glitch the Aquaero
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


i dont know tbh


----------



## headbass

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> you can make 2 separate profiles and just activate them when you want to switch !~


thx for reply, but that didn't really answer my question

anyway I've been digging around the config files and found that the software sensor configuration is stored in
C:\ProgramData\aquasuite-data\service_settings.xml

the setting for one of the entries:

Code:



Code:


<SoftwareSensorConfig>
          <enabled>true</enabled>
          <sensorName>GPU Temperature</sensorName>
          <id>6</id>
          <src>hwinfo</src>
          <sourcePath>gpu_0_nvidia_geforce_gtx_970_/gpu_temperature/16777216_0_0</sourcePath>
          <unit_override>false</unit_override>
          <unit_from>
            <t>Temperature</t>
            <t_value>DegreeCelsius</t_value>
            <accuracy>1</accuracy>
            None
            <range>None</range>
            <range_mode>Manual</range_mode>
          </unit_from>
          <unit_to>
            <t>Temperature</t>
            <t_value>DegreeCelsius</t_value>
            <accuracy>1</accuracy>
            None
            <range>None</range>
            <range_mode>Manual</range_mode>
          </unit_to>
          <unit_offset>0</unit_offset>
          <unit_scale>1</unit_scale>
</SoftwareSensorConfig>

my understanding is that aquasuite is filtering the sensors to only the temperatures when offering you which sensor to add under new software sensor, so in theory if I could change one of the entries in the config to my desired non-temperature item in the hwinfo shared memory it might still work since that data is available to aquasuite

the only problem now is that I have no idea where aquasuite got the sourcePath from, since I cannot see that in the HWiNFOSharedMemoryViewer.exe app when looking at the entries in the shared memory



I also tried searching the registry for the value, looking at other hwinfo config files and looking at processmonitor to see which files/registry entries it is accessing but no luck so far ;o[


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *headbass*
> 
> thx for reply, but that didn't really answer my question
> 
> anyway I've been digging around the config files and found that the software sensor configuration is stored in
> C:\ProgramData\aquasuite-data\service_settings.xml
> 
> the setting for one of the entries:
> 
> Code:
> 
> 
> 
> Code:
> 
> 
> <SoftwareSensorConfig>
> <enabled>true</enabled>
> <sensorName>GPU Temperature</sensorName>
> <id>6</id>
> <src>hwinfo</src>
> <sourcePath>gpu_0_nvidia_geforce_gtx_970_/gpu_temperature/16777216_0_0</sourcePath>
> <unit_override>false</unit_override>
> <unit_from>
> <t>Temperature</t>
> <t_value>DegreeCelsius</t_value>
> <accuracy>1</accuracy>
> None
> <range>None</range>
> <range_mode>Manual</range_mode>
> </unit_from>
> <unit_to>
> <t>Temperature</t>
> <t_value>DegreeCelsius</t_value>
> <accuracy>1</accuracy>
> None
> <range>None</range>
> <range_mode>Manual</range_mode>
> </unit_to>
> <unit_offset>0</unit_offset>
> <unit_scale>1</unit_scale>
> </SoftwareSensorConfig>
> 
> my understanding is that aquasuite is filtering the sensors to only the temperatures when offering you which sensor to add under new software sensor, so in theory if I could change one of the entries in the config to my desired non-temperature item in the hwinfo shared memory it might still work since that data is available to aquasuite
> 
> the only problem now is that I have no idea where aquasuite got the sourcePath from, since I cannot see that in the HWiNFOSharedMemoryViewer.exe app when looking at the entries in the shared memory
> 
> 
> 
> I also tried searching the registry for the value, looking at other hwinfo config files and looking at processmonitor to see which files/registry entries it is accessing but no luck so far ;o[


Why not just use gpu temps as they are going to get hotter while you game?? Just ramp up fans depending on gpu temps as you might not need to go up much to keep them cool?? This is what aquaero is best at. Being a smart controller


----------



## headbass

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> Why not just use gpu temps as they are going to get hotter while you game?? Just ramp up fans depending on gpu temps as you might not need to go up much to keep them cool?? This is what aquaero is best at. Being a smart controller


already said that in my previous post

the reason for that is that the temperatures of my system depend heavily on the ambient - for example during hot summer days my gpu temps are about 10 degrees more then ambient when not gaming and 15 degrees more then ambient when gaming

since my rig is watercooled the temps are affected by ambient a lot more then the idle vs load
idle vs load is about 5 degrees difference but the ambient changes from 20-30 degrees so if I set the fans to 40-45 (during hot summer days) it will no longer work when the hot summer days are over since my system temps will all be 10 degrees less

also day vs night temps are about 5-8 degrees difference so if I set it for daytime when it's hot in my room it will no longer work at night when everything is 5-8 degrees less

therefore I need to set it off some performance sensor like gpu clock or maybe some advanced setting like delta of water temp/gpu temp vs case temp but delta would not work as good since when the ambient goes down the efficiency of the cooling goes up so the idle/load vs ambient delta decreases significantly


----------



## zerophase

I just want to double check, on the usb 2.0 cables provided by aquacomputer the black wires are grounds, right?


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zerophase*
> 
> I just want to double check, on the usb 2.0 cables provided by aquacomputer the black wires are grounds, right?


yes. red is 5 v.


----------



## Barefooter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *headbass*
> 
> already said that in my previous post
> 
> the reason for that is that the temperatures of my system depend heavily on the ambient - for example during hot summer days my gpu temps are about 10 degrees more then ambient when not gaming and 15 degrees more then ambient when gaming
> 
> since my rig is watercooled the temps are affected by ambient a lot more then the idle vs load
> idle vs load is about 5 degrees difference but the ambient changes from 20-30 degrees so if I set the fans to 40-45 (during hot summer days) it will no longer work when the hot summer days are over since my system temps will all be 10 degrees less
> 
> also day vs night temps are about 5-8 degrees difference so if I set it for daytime when it's hot in my room it will no longer work at night when everything is 5-8 degrees less
> 
> therefore I need to set it off some performance sensor like gpu clock or maybe some advanced setting like delta of water temp/gpu temp vs case temp but delta would not work as good since when the ambient goes down the efficiency of the cooling goes up so the idle/load vs ambient delta decreases significantly


Sounds like you need to set up a curve to work on the ambient/water delta. Here are two previous posts that may help you with that.

http://www.overclock.net/t/1474470/ocn-aquaero-owners-club/1500#post_22618041

http://www.overclock.net/t/1474470/ocn-aquaero-owners-club/2330#post_23066827

Good luck!


----------



## Jakusonfire

Yep, that is why we use virtual sensors to measure the coolant to ambient delta, and use that for fan control.

I have a kind of similar situation with high ambient in summer and cool in winter but the controller always keeps the water 8C above ambient under load.
On top of that I also have a summer and winter profile stored. Winter uses a less aggressive fan curve for slightly less noise.


----------



## Jflisk

Signing up for the club just ordered LT5 thru Aquatuning us. Sending the heatmaster 2 out to pasture


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jflisk*
> 
> Signing up for the club just ordered LT5 thru Aquatuning us. Sending the heatmaster 2 out to pasture


you will not regret it


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Here we go folks and @Jakusonfire in particular. a shot of the PWM d5 pcb from Aqua:
> 
> 
> 
> high resolution clicking on the image on imgur. Notice what seems to be two diodes on the pcb/green wire.


Thanks muchly for that. I just wish Aquacomp didn't do their usual drown everything in silicon trick so we could see what is soldered where a bit easier.

To me it looks like they are using the solder pads that normally support the speed dial on the vario version?
Looks like what I expected but at the same time not.

Its also interesting just how few extra components there are on the PCB of the PWM version vs Vario


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *headbass*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> Why not just use gpu temps as they are going to get hotter while you game?? Just ramp up fans depending on gpu temps as you might not need to go up much to keep them cool?? This is what aquaero is best at. Being a smart controller
> 
> 
> 
> already said that in my previous post
> 
> the reason for that is that the temperatures of my system depend heavily on the ambient - for example during hot summer days my gpu temps are about 10 degrees more then ambient when not gaming and 15 degrees more then ambient when gaming
> 
> since my rig is watercooled the temps are affected by ambient a lot more then the idle vs load
> idle vs load is about 5 degrees difference but the ambient changes from 20-30 degrees so if I set the fans to 40-45 (during hot summer days) it will no longer work when the hot summer days are over since my system temps will all be 10 degrees less
> 
> also day vs night temps are about 5-8 degrees difference so if I set it for daytime when it's hot in my room it will no longer work at night when everything is 5-8 degrees less
> 
> therefore I need to set it off some performance sensor like gpu clock or maybe some advanced setting like delta of water temp/gpu temp vs case temp but delta would not work as good since when the ambient goes down the efficiency of the cooling goes up so the idle/load vs ambient delta decreases significantly
Click to expand...

it may not be the answer to your question

but you want to basically have a two point controller on "non temp sensors" which now i see you ment software sensors

but imo this is a mistake

regardless i think a air water delta would be better suited then a two point controller
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zerophase*
> 
> I just want to double check, on the usb 2.0 cables provided by aquacomputer the black wires are grounds, right?


the black on the end ( 5th pin ) is shield and 4th is ground not a large diff. but still a diff


----------



## zerophase

Thanks, for the response. Just noticed I missed the heatsink having the colors labeled

Now,for the temp sensors does the orientation for plugging them in matter?


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zerophase*
> 
> Thanks, for the response. Just noticed I missed the heatsink having the colors labeled
> 
> Now,for the temp sensors does the orientation for plugging them in matter?


no, it does not.


----------



## Mega Man

my fav thing about AC ! no pos and neg to worry about!~

also on the plus of the delta it is more quiet


----------



## JLMS2010

Please add me.


----------



## fast_fate

suppose need to update me also











Spoiler: 1 x 6XT






and


Spoiler: 2 x 5LT (1 still NIB) and one in use


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JLMS2010*
> 
> Please add me.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fast_fate*
> 
> suppose need to update me also
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: 1 x 6XT
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and
> 
> 
> Spoiler: 2 x 5LT (1 still NIB) and one in use


Done, . . . and Done


----------



## Jflisk

The post found here can I use this to shut the computer down in an emergency situation. Also do i need to use the propitiatory connector or does any 3 pin connector fit the relay slot.I have a emergency shut down cable ran to mother board on / off already to a heatmaster 2 just want to move it over to the Aquacomputer. Thanks

http://www.overclock.net/t/1474470/ocn-aquaero-owners-club/2900#post_23341151


----------



## iBruce

1. Seven letters, an autonomous electronic measuring device able to adjust rate of change internally within modern computers specifically to those components capable of managing the hydrodynamic and thermodynamic cooling properties of heat generating silicon processors.

Begins with the letter A.

Hmmm, that's a tough one.









http://s296.photobucket.com/user/iBruceEVGA/media/tuesday-dopeness-14_zps01mi0dg8.jpg.html


----------



## headbass

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Barefooter*
> 
> Sounds like you need to set up a curve to work on the ambient/water delta. Here are two previous posts that may help you with that.
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1474470/ocn-aquaero-owners-club/1500#post_22618041
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1474470/ocn-aquaero-owners-club/2330#post_23066827
> 
> Good luck!


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> Yep, that is why we use virtual sensors to measure the coolant to ambient delta, and use that for fan control.
> 
> I have a kind of similar situation with high ambient in summer and cool in winter but the controller always keeps the water 8C above ambient under load.
> On top of that I also have a summer and winter profile stored. Winter uses a less aggressive fan curve for slightly less noise.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> it may not be the answer to your question
> 
> but you want to basically have a two point controller on "non temp sensors" which now i see you ment software sensors
> 
> but imo this is a mistake
> 
> regardless i think a air water delta would be better suited then a two point controller
> the black on the end ( 5th pin ) is shield and 4th is ground not a large diff. but still a diff


yeah seems like the virtual sensor delta is my only option....hopefully I'll find some settings that will work throughout different ambient temperatures....already playing with it so we'll see....I want to run my 120mm radiator fans between 500 and 1000 rpm and my case 140mm fans between 400 and 800 rpm so it's not like it would really bother me that much to have them at higher speeds all the time, just that I would prefer the pc to be completely silent when idle

I've tried my best to configure the aquasuite to use the non-temperature sensors from hwinfo and didn't make it work even though it seems to me I did everything right.....I found out the sourcePath and even configured the units according to Aquasuite default as in aquasuite.xml so I can't think of anything else that I could fix anymore....aquasuite seems to accepts the settings but no data is coming through and without aquacomputers help I am kinda stuck as I don't know what else I can do

the thread with more details how I configured it is in the aquacomputer forum if anyone more knowledgeable is up for a little challenge cause I am out of ideas...seems like there is some other catch that I am not aware of and the aquacomputrer guys don't really seem to be willing to help in hacking their software the way I want to, but maybe they'll surprise me


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *headbass*
> 
> yeah seems like the virtual sensor delta is my only option....hopefully I'll find some settings that will work throughout different ambient temperatures....already playing with it so we'll see....I want to run my 120mm radiator fans between 500 and 1000 rpm and my case 140mm fans between 400 and 800 rpm so it's not like it would really bother me that much to have them at higher speeds all the time, just that I would prefer the pc to be completely silent when idle
> 
> I've tried my best to configure the aquasuite to use the non-temperature sensors from hwinfo and didn't make it work even though it seems to me I did everything right.....I found out the sourcePath and even configured the units according to Aquasuite default as in aquasuite.xml so I can't think of anything else that I could fix anymore....aquasuite seems to accepts the settings but no data is coming through and without aquacomputers help I am kinda stuck as I don't know what else I can do
> 
> the thread with more details how I configured it is in the aquacomputer forum if anyone more knowledgeable is up for a little challenge cause I am out of ideas...seems like there is some other catch that I am not aware of and the aquacomputrer guys don't really seem to be willing to help in hacking their software the way I want to, but maybe they'll surprise me


Would you like to use like cpu temp from hwinfo64 to control the fans? I personally would go for the delta between air and water but would cpu or gpu temp do the trick for you? If so I just tested here and worked just fine.


----------



## headbass

btw I think my Aquaero 6 PRO has a faulty display....can anyone confirm that?....I really have a bad luck when it comes to pc parts ;o[

I don't really use the display (the unit is behind the case doors) as I use the aquasuite app to monitor everything....also pretty much want it to be set-it-and-forget-it

but still I would like to know....could that been done by changing the faceplate (got the black one)?
it is running the latest firmware version

video of the startup animation
https://youtu.be/mdkeQgizWLc

some more pics (have some text corrupted)









it is only a month old so still in warranty and could have the unit replaced
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Done, . . . and Done


can you please add me as well?

also added some more pictures of my rig with aquaero in my build log thread


----------



## headbass

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Would you like to use like cpu temp from hwinfo64 to control the fans? I personally would go for the delta between air and water but would cpu or gpu temp do the trick for you? If so I just tested here and worked just fine.


I wanted to use gpu clock, but couldn't get it to work via the config files...more in the aquacomputer forum

gpu or cpu temp can be done in aquasuite without any problems (since you can add temperature data from hwinfo as a software sensor)...the challenge was that AS won't let you add anything else then temperatures...so to use gpu clock or gpu voltage you need to use the config xmls to force AS to use that instead

already set up the virtual sensor for water outlets averages/case bottom delta (I don't have a sensor for ambient connected to AQ)
and already configured the ranges for some of my fans to be in the desired min/max and will create a curve, still need to finish two and then I will experiment with the curve settings


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Whoa! Ok So I hooked up the 400mps Last night. It came with an Rpm/Tack Cable and the Usb Cable. I found the USB 2.0 female on the motherboard and hooked it up.

THe Other Cable has white end connectors similar to a 3pin header and has yellow black and red cables. On the Front of the Pamphlet from Aqua Comptuer it shows that same cable in the "Alarm" spot of the 400mps? Am I missing something? Will I be able to get a flow reading with these cables?

TCO


----------



## Dagamus NM

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gdubc*
> 
> Mattress in the garage...this sounds dirty.


Yeah, that was a big WTHeck when I read that. One step above mattress in an alley, but one step below cracked put motel mattress.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Whoa! Ok So I hooked up the 400mps Last night. It came with an Rpm/Tack Cable and the Usb Cable. I found the USB 2.0 female on the motherboard and hooked it up.
> 
> THe Other Cable has white end connectors similar to a 3pin header and has yellow black and red cables. On the Front of the Pamphlet from Aqua Comptuer it shows that same cable in the "Alarm" spot of the 400mps? Am I missing something? Will I be able to get a flow reading with these cables?
> 
> TCO


Just the USB connection is enough to operate the MPS 400. You will read flow and temp but don't trust the temp. Just pay attention to the orientation of the USB cable otherwise you might fry your MPS400.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Just the USB connection is enough to operate the MPS 400. You will read flow and temp but don't trust the temp. Just pay attention to the orientation of the USB cable otherwise you might fry your MPS400.


So I have to leave the USB cable plugged in to see flow rate? And I matched the Power and Ground Cables to the boards + and - specs to make sure of the No Frying Part.

TCO


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> So I have to leave the USB cable plugged in to see flow rate? And I matched the Power and Ground Cables to the boards + and - specs to make sure of the No Frying Part.
> 
> TCO


I am just saying that usb is enough. You don't need the other cable. Unless you want the connection to be via Aquabus. But then you will need the 4 pin aquabus cable or use the 3 pin cable +usb cable.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> I am just saying that usb is enough. You don't need the other cable. Unless you want the connection to be via Aquabus. But then you will need the 4 pin aquabus cable or use the 3 pin cable +usb cable.


So To be clear (It is hard for me to understand sometimes) I have it hooked up with both the 3pin and Usb Right now.

1. I can Hook up both cables (But I don't need the 3pin at all?) Could I set everything up with jsut the USB cable?
2. In Order to have Flow rate shown on screen by the Aqua software I have to KEEP the USB hooked up, Or Could I just leave the 3pin Cable Hooked up instead?

3. Is the 3pin Supposed to be plugged into the "Alarm" slot of the 400 Mps sensor?

TCO


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> So To be clear (It is hard for me to understand sometimes) I have it hooked up with both the 3pin and Usb Right now.
> 
> 1. I can Hook up both cables (But I don't need the 3pin at all?) Could I set everything up with jsut the USB cable?
> 2. In Order to have Flow rate shown on screen by the Aqua software I have to KEEP the USB hooked up, Or Could I just leave the 3pin Cable Hooked up instead?
> 
> 3. Is the 3pin Supposed to be plugged into the "Alarm" slot of the 400 Mps sensor?
> 
> TCO


1. *YES* the usb cable is enough
2. with the 3 pin cable on the aquabus you will need the usb to give power. Or you will need the 4 pin cable auqabus (where the 4 pin is the power source for aquabus devices).


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> 1. *YES* the usb cable is enough
> 2. with the 3 pin cable on the aquabus you will need the usb to give power. Or you will need the 4 pin cable auqabus (where the 4 pin is the power source for aquabus devices).


I am going to read up on This Too!

The Instruction booklet in the Box is kinda vauge.

TCO

EDIT: I have the White Connector in the Right Slot, Not the Left (THis is a start)


----------



## Archea47

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Whoa! Ok So I hooked up the 400mps Last night. It came with an Rpm/Tack Cable and the Usb Cable. I found the USB 2.0 female on the motherboard and hooked it up.
> 
> THe Other Cable has white end connectors similar to a 3pin header and has yellow black and red cables. On the Front of the Pamphlet from Aqua Comptuer it shows that same cable in the "Alarm" spot of the 400mps? Am I missing something? Will I be able to get a flow reading with these cables?
> 
> TCO


Flow reading can come from the USB or Aquabus High ports into Aquasuite and the Aquaero

The Alarm port gives a constant RPM value over the 3-wire cable when pressure is present. When pressure is not present, it will present 0RPM. This can be used in conjunction with motherboard CPU_FAN monitoring so the MPS sends the CPU_FAN header 0RPM upon say pump failure and the motherboard shuts the system down

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dagamus NM*
> 
> Yeah, that was a big WTHeck when I read that. One step above mattress in an alley, but one step below cracked put motel mattress.


Haha we had just gotten a new mattress but brought it home ourselves and were waiting for the junk man so had the mattress out in the garage. I ended up painting on the mattress. It's since been picked up by the junk man!!


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Archea47*
> 
> Flow reading can come from the USB or Aquabus High ports into Aquasuite and the Aquaero


Sounds Like I don't need the Alarm cable and will have to keep the USB plugged in to check flow rate.

TCO


----------



## sinnedone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Sounds Like I don't need the Alarm cable and will have to keep the USB plugged in to check flow rate.
> 
> TCO


You can use either the 4 pin aquabus if you have it or usb. In the end I went only usb since it meant less cable clutter for me. Tried aquabus only and the difference was that the flow and temperature were in the 5LT (for me) menu, and with usb only the MPS had its own settings section.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sinnedone*
> 
> You can use either the 4 pin aquabus if you have it or usb. In the end I went only usb since it meant less cable clutter for me. Tried aquabus only and the difference was that the flow and temperature were in the 5LT (for me) menu, and with usb only the MPS had its own settings section.


Yea Ill take the Final Photos without the Usb and then Keep it hooked up for good so I can have a readout that way. Just remove the 3pin and store it up since it isn't needed.

Good Stuff. Thanks!

TCO

+Rep to you and Gabe and Archea!


----------



## Jflisk

Aquasuite is awesome never knew you can add a background picture of your system and add temp to it. My Aquacomputer should be here tomorrow and the relay connector on Saturday for the shutdown. Added the Aida sensor temps to it already.

DIVAIT can you add me in for a Aquacomputer 5 XT or do I have to wait to show pics. Thanks

I also see people saying to control the fans by ambient and water temp. What happens if the ambient it lower then the water temp do I use a differential on the water temp to control the fans.


----------



## sinnedone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jflisk*
> 
> Aquasuite is awesome never knew you can add a background picture of your system and add temp to it. My Aquacomputer should be here tomorrow and the relay connector on Saturday for the shutdown. Added the Aida sensor temps to it already.
> 
> DIVAIT can you add me in for a Aquacomputer 5 XT or do I have to wait to show pics. Thanks
> 
> I also see people saying to control the fans by ambient and water temp. What happens if the ambient it lower then the water temp do I use a differential on the water temp to control the fans.


It is pretty neat once you start getting the hang of it.

I have all the blue leds in my system powered by one fan header. I then used the ambient temp sensor in my system to control the leds in a pulsating pattern depending on temperature. lol


----------



## JLMS2010

Does anybody know of any issues with the 6 Pro and be quiet! pwm fans? I'm getting some crazy rpm readings from 200 to 1500, it just changes every second to something else. Lol. It's getting late maybe I missed something somewhere?


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JLMS2010*
> 
> Does anybody know of any issues with the 6 Pro and be quiet! pwm fans? I'm getting some crazy rpm readings from 200 to 1500, it just changes every second to something else. Lol. It's getting late maybe I missed something somewhere?


are you using splitter? Or just one fan per channel? If using splitter only one fan header should have the 4 pins the others should miss the 3th tacho wire.


----------



## JLMS2010

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> are you using splitter? Or just one fan per channel? If using splitter only one fan header should have the 4 pins the others should miss the 3th tacho wire.











Oh yeah. That would make sense huh. Thank you! Lol


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> I am going to read up on This Too!
> 
> The Instruction booklet in the Box is kinda vauge.
> 
> TCO
> 
> EDIT: I have the White Connector in the Right Slot, Not the Left (THis is a start)


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> 1. *YES* the usb cable is enough
> 2. with the 3 pin cable on the aquabus you will need the usb to give power. Or you will need the 4 pin cable auqabus (where the 4 pin is the power source for aquabus devices).


The seems to be some slight misconceptions re USB and Aquabus

The USB connection connects the meter to Aquasuite ... it can give you a flow reading in Aquasuite.

The Aquabus connection that you have plugged into the alarm at the moment connects the meter to the Aquaero. It can provide a flow reading to the Aquaero, the Aquaero display and Aquasuite.

The USB connection is for using the meter as a standalone device. Aquabus makes the meter an extension of the Aquaero.
If the meter is to be used with the aquaero then Aquabus really should be used.

For minimal cabling and full function then 4 pin Aquabus is the way to go. USB only will not provide full functionality.
No flow in Aquaero sensors tab, no flow on Aquaero display, no flow based Aquaero alarms or shutdown.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> The seems to be some slight misconceptions re USB and Aquabus
> 
> The USB connection connects the meter to Aquasuite ... it can give you a flow reading in Aquasuite.
> 
> The Aquabus connection that you have plugged into the alarm at the moment connects the meter to the Aquaero. It can provide a flow reading to the Aquaero, the Aquaero display and Aquasuite.
> 
> The USB connection is for using the meter as a standalone device. Aquabus makes the meter an extension of the Aquaero.
> If the meter is to be used with the aquaero then Aquabus really should be used.
> 
> For minimal cabling and full function then 4 pin Aquabus is the way to go. USB only will not provide full functionality.
> No flow in Aquaero sensors tab, no flow on Aquaero display, no flow based Aquaero alarms or shutdown.


All true Jak and thanks for the clarification. TCO was asking about been able to read the flow in Aquasuite that is why I said usb cable was enough.


----------



## InfoSeeker

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jflisk*
> 
> I also see people saying to control the fans by ambient and water temp. What happens if the ambient it lower then the water temp do I use a differential on the water temp to control the fans.


Exactly, make a virtual temp sensor that is the delta between Water-Out-of-Rad Temp & Ambient:


Then control the fans with the Virtual Temperature:


The point being, if your loop is at ambient, the fans serve no function and can be set to zero since the radiator cannot cool below ambient.

This setup allows the loop to float with your ambient, and as the load increases, the corresponding heat raises the water temperature increasing the water/ambient delta, and the fans will ramp up.


----------



## DanBr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *InfoSeeker*
> 
> Exactly, make a virtual temp sensor that is the delta between Water-Out-of-Rad Temp & Ambient:
> 
> 
> Then control the fans with the Virtual Temperature:
> 
> 
> The point being, if your loop is at ambient, the fans serve no function and can be set to zero since the radiator cannot cool below ambient.
> 
> This setup allows the loop to float with your ambient, and as the load increases, the corresponding heat raises the water temperature increasing the water/ambient delta, and the fans will ramp up.


good idea, but do you have to use a virtual sensor?
Could I also use the temp sensors that come with the Aquaero 6?

I could place one for intake air and one one the end of the each radiator?

Also I plan one loop but with the fluid going from pump to cpu to rad 1 then to
GPU to Rad 2 then to res and pump
Could I have 2 ambient water curves, so the fans on CPU rad might work independently from the fans on the GPU Rad.

Hope fully in a week or two I will actually have this up and running and I will ask more specifically on actually setting this up.
Just theory now
dan


----------



## InfoSeeker

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DanBr*
> 
> good idea, but do you have to use a virtual sensor?
> Could I also use the temp sensors that come with the Aquaero 6?
> 
> I could place one for intake air and one one the end of the each radiator?
> 
> Also I plan one loop but with the fluid going from pump to cpu to rad 1 then to
> GPU to Rad 2 then to res and pump
> Could I have 2 ambient water curves, so the fans on CPU rad might work independently from the fans on the GPU Rad.
> 
> Hope fully in a week or two I will actually have this up and running and I will ask more specifically on actually setting this up.
> Just theory now
> dan


Yes, you can use one of the temp sensors that come with the aquaero to read ambient... just place one where it will see the least influence from your machine.

The purpose for a virtual sensor is to get a delta between water and ambient so your virtual sensor reading increases with a load increase which gives you a range to adjust your fan speeds to.

I am not sure what you mean with "the end of each radiator". if you mean the water outlet, that will work, but the sensor at the intake will be influenced by the radiant heat from the radiator itself. If you meant at the exhaust side of the radiator, then I believe you will probably not see much of a delta change regardless of the water temp change.

Yes, you certainly can have two curves, one for each of the fan sets on both radiators, BUT the loop temperature will stabilize and you will not see much of a change at both radiators.


----------



## Shoggy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *headbass*
> 
> btw I think my Aquaero 6 PRO has a faulty display....


It is very likely that this is only a bad contact between the display and the interface on the main controller board. To check this you can remove the four screws at the front so you can pull out the faceplate and the touch controller board (it is plugged into the display). Then you will see four bolts which must be also removed so you can remove the display from the main controller. I recommend to use something flat like a ruler or a knife and to slightly(!) bend the contact pins for the display on the main controller to the side. This way you can make sure that they will have a proper contact in the socket of the display.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> The seems to be some slight misconceptions re USB and Aquabus
> *
> The USB connection connects the meter to Aquasuite ... it can give you a flow reading in Aquasuite.*
> 
> The Aquabus connection that you have plugged into the alarm at the moment connects the meter to the Aquaero. It can provide a flow reading to the Aquaero, the Aquaero display and Aquasuite.
> 
> The USB connection is for using the meter as a standalone device. Aquabus makes the meter an extension of the Aquaero.
> If the meter is to be used with the aquaero then Aquabus really should be used.
> 
> For minimal cabling and full function then 4 pin Aquabus is the way to go. USB only will not provide full functionality.
> No flow in Aquaero sensors tab, no flow on Aquaero display, no flow based Aquaero alarms or shutdown.


This is the main concern. I have the Aquero head unit. Just the Flow Sensor.

TCO


----------



## Jflisk

ITDEVA Please add me Aquacomputer 5 . Thanks


----------



## jeanspaulo

Hello Diva, I have one doubt. How many watts per channel its possible to safe use on each fan header of the Aquaero 6xt ? I'm using a Mod My Toys 4 way pcb splitter and using the CoolerMaster Excalibur cooler that uses 6watts so if I use 4 fans per PCB it will sum 24watts and on the manual of the aquaero its saying that the Maximum output power is 19.8 W.
I'd like to use 4 fans per channel total of 8 excaliburs ( 2 spliters) : http://www.coolermaster.com/cooling/case-fan/excalibur/
and another channel with
1 jeflo : http://www.coolermaster.com/cooling/case-fan/jetflo-120/
and 2 cougar 140mm http://www.cougargaming.com/products/fans/vortex_hdb.html

http://www.performance-pcs.com/modmytoys-4-pin-pwm-power-distribution-pcb-4-way-block.html


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jeanspaulo*
> 
> Hello Diva, I have one doubt. How many watts per channel its possible to safe use on each fan header of the Aquaero 6xt ? I'm using a Mod My Toys 4 way pcb splitter and using the CoolerMaster Excalibur cooler that uses 6watts so if I use 4 fans per PCB it will sum 24watts and on the manual of the aquaero its saying that the Maximum output power is 19.8 W.
> I'd like to use 4 fans per channel total of 8 excaliburs ( 2 spliters) : http://www.coolermaster.com/cooling/case-fan/excalibur/
> and another channel with
> 1 jeflo : http://www.coolermaster.com/cooling/case-fan/jetflo-120/
> and 2 cougar 140mm http://www.cougargaming.com/products/fans/vortex_hdb.html
> 
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/modmytoys-4-pin-pwm-power-distribution-pcb-4-way-block.html


need to read about the 6 not the 5 as you can see from the below copy and paste from manual.
Quote:


> aquaero 6:
> Maximum current is 2.5 A per output independent of output voltage, resulting
> in a maximum power of 30 W at 12 V.


----------



## Archea47

While we're at it Diva can I be added as well? Aquaero 6 Pro (with heatsink and mps400)



Sorry the writing's so blurry. It's my fiance's camera and she was asleep by that point


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jflisk*
> 
> ITDEVA Please add me Aquacomputer 5 . Thanks


Which model is it, . . . . . XT, Pro, or LT
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jeanspaulo*
> 
> Hello Diva, I have one doubt. How many watts per channel its possible to safe use on each fan header of the Aquaero 6xt ? I'm using a Mod My Toys 4 way pcb splitter and using the CoolerMaster Excalibur cooler that uses 6watts so if I use 4 fans per PCB it will sum 24watts and on the manual of the aquaero its saying that the Maximum output power is 19.8 W.
> I'd like to use 4 fans per channel total of 8 excaliburs ( 2 spliters) : http://www.coolermaster.com/cooling/case-fan/excalibur/
> and another channel with
> 1 jeflo : http://www.coolermaster.com/cooling/case-fan/jetflo-120/
> and 2 cougar 140mm http://www.cougargaming.com/products/fans/vortex_hdb.html
> 
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/modmytoys-4-pin-pwm-power-distribution-pcb-4-way-block.html


From what Shoggy has said in the past, the 6 series is capable of 30W per channel with the passive heatsink, and stretches to 36W with the waterblock and liquid cooling.

I think most of us use the anodized aluminum cooler with the finned cooler from the older 5 series installed if we need near max capacity:



The excaliburs are PWM, so I would suggest a PSU powered PWM splitter like the Swiftech, so there's no need for the power to have to come from the Aquaero for those fans.

http://www.performance-pcs.com/pwm-cables/swiftech-8-way-pwm-splitter-box.html

The Cougars and jetflows are 3 pin fans, and the Aquaero will easily handle them as you have it planned.

Darlene


----------



## Jflisk

I have the aqaucomputer 5 LT. Thanks again


----------



## Jflisk

On the fan curve what does the red bar do is that the cut off point. Thanks


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jflisk*
> 
> I have the aqaucomputer 5 LT. Thanks again


I thought it was probably the LT, since I didn't see mounting brackets, but wanted to be sure.









D.


----------



## jeanspaulo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> need to read about the 6 not the 5 as you can see from the below copy and paste from manual.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Which model is it, . . . . . XT, Pro, or LT
> From what Shoggy has said in the past, the 6 series is capable of 30W per channel with the passive heatsink, and stretches to 36W with the waterblock and liquid cooling.
> 
> I think most of us use the anodized aluminum cooler with the finned cooler from the older 5 series installed if we need near max capacity:
> 
> 
> 
> The excaliburs are PWM, so I would suggest a PSU powered PWM splitter like the Swiftech, so there's no need for the power to have to come from the Aquaero for those fans.
> 
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/pwm-cables/swiftech-8-way-pwm-splitter-box.html
> 
> The Cougars and jetflows are 3 pin fans, and the Aquaero will easily handle them as you have it planned.
> 
> Darlene


Thank you so much, seross69 and Diva.
Nice explain, I'm using the heatsink and waterblock on my aquaero 6xt so I'll be fine with 4 per channel. Thanks for the tip about the swiftech spliter but I just had the mod mytoys spliters as you said reaching near 36watts per channel with the waterblock I will be fine using the aquaero to power the fans right? Or I'll get some problem?


----------



## DanBr

Virtual Sensor question.
How does HWINFO get the temp of the water for a virtual sensor to use in an ambient air/water fan curve?
For that matter, how does any virtual sensor get water temps?
Thanks
dan


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DanBr*
> 
> Virtual Sensor question.
> How does HWINFO get the temp of the water for a virtual sensor to use in an ambient air/water fan curve?
> For that matter, how does any virtual sensor get water temps?
> Thanks
> dan


A virtual sensor is a sensor that is derived from two or more other sensors. So A virtual Air water delta sensor uses a physical sensor measuring water temp and another one measuring air temp and from these sensors creates a third value that is the Virtual sensor.
So HWIFO does not have anything to do with water temps. It just provides its values as software sensors. You could use one of those software sensors provided by HWINFO as part of a virtual sensor but its the Aquaero doing it, not HWINFO.


----------



## DanBr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> A virtual sensor is a sensor that is derived from two or more other sensors. So A virtual Air water delta sensor uses a physical sensor measuring water temp and another one measuring air temp and from these sensors creates a third value that is the Virtual sensor.
> So HWIFO does not have anything to do with water temps. It just provides its values as software sensors. You could use one of those software sensors provided by HWINFO as part of a virtual sensor but its the Aquaero doing it, not HWINFO.


Part of my problem is my build is not finished so I can't see this stuff yet. I liked your idea of using the physical temp sensors from Aq6 and placing them on the ends of the radiators.Would that be the way to get the water temp for this air/water curve?
Also how to you attach the temp probes from Aq6 to the radiator. Do they stick on or something?

Just to be clear (which I never seem to be) I use physical sensors to get the ambient air and physical sensors (either an inline water sensor or what you suggested) for water and then both of them to create this virtual fan curve

dan


----------



## Jakusonfire

The sensors are designed to be taped to things to measure their temp so yes it is a way of doing it. Other people have said that they have had trouble getting that to work on painted rads though so that would be something to watch out for. Its not an issue with my current EK rads because they aren't painted underneath the Aluminium shroud.
Most of the water sensor fittings that are available are just the same standard film sensor wrapped around or glued into a fitting so its no different. Just that a sensor on the end tank of a rad has a much higher surface area of thinner metal in contact with the water.

http://www.overclock.net/t/1474470/ocn-aquaero-owners-club/820#post_22408012


----------



## ozzy1925

bad place for the water temps?


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ozzy1925*
> 
> bad place for the water temps?


Typically, you'll always want to have a coolant temp sensor in a location that has a continual flow, or changing of the fluid. . . . Not sure how much coolant movement you'll get in that little pocket. . .

Better idea using the same port would be to use a stop fitting sensor:

http://www.performance-pcs.com/bitspower-g-1-4-silver-shiny-temperature-sensor-stop-fitting.html

D.


----------



## ozzy1925

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Typically, you'll always want to have a coolant temp sensor in a location that has a continual flow, or changing of the fluid. . . . Not sure how much coolant movement you'll get in that little pocket. . .
> 
> Better idea using the same port would be to use a stop fitting sensor:
> 
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/bitspower-g-1-4-silver-shiny-temperature-sensor-stop-fitting.html
> 
> D.


yea, i must have tought that before filling the loop







but i think the bitspower one wont also fit in this port ,because the longest part will touch to the inside of the rad


----------



## Jflisk

So what I did here is I tried the ambient \ water virtual sensor my difference is 8c had the fan shooting off every so often. So right now I am trying water temp against CPU temp virtual sensor. So when the CPU starts getting to far from the water my fans kick in. Anyone see any problems with this.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jflisk*
> 
> So what I did here is I tried the ambient \ water virtual sensor my difference is 8c had the fan shooting off every so often. So right now I am trying water temp against CPU temp virtual sensor. So when the CPU starts getting to far from the water my fans kick in. Anyone see any problems with this.


cpu temps usually spikes a lot. That would make your fans also spike a lot going up and down very quickly. Most of us use the difference between water and ambient (air) temp as the source for the controller. JUst mine


----------



## Archea47

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> cpu temps usually spikes a lot. That would make your fans also spike a lot going up and down very quickly. Most of us use the difference between water and ambient (air) temp as the source for the controller. JUst mine


Agreed - I used to have corsair link scale my fan speed to CPU temp and the fan speed was changing too often for me to tolerate. And I have a high noise tolerance


----------



## InfoSeeker

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jflisk*
> 
> So what I did here is I tried the ambient \ water virtual sensor my difference is 8c had the fan shooting off every so often. So right now I am trying water temp against CPU temp virtual sensor. So when the CPU starts getting to far from the water my fans kick in. Anyone see any problems with this.


What does your controller curve look like?


EDIT: if you use the CPU temp, your fans have probably ramped up and down multiple times before the water passing over the CPU during those load fluctuations even gets to the radiator.


----------



## Jflisk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *InfoSeeker*
> 
> What does your controller curve look like?
> 
> 
> EDIT: if you use the CPU temp, your fans have probably ramped up and down multiple times before the water passing over the CPU during those load fluctuations even gets to the radiator.




Please see above


----------



## DanBr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> The sensors are designed to be taped to things to measure their temp so yes it is a way of doing it. Other people have said that they have had trouble getting that to work on painted rads though so that would be something to watch out for. Its not an issue with my current EK rads because they aren't painted underneath the Aluminium shroud.
> Most of the water sensor fittings that are available are just the same standard film sensor wrapped around or glued into a fitting so its no different. Just that a sensor on the end tank of a rad has a much higher surface area of thinner metal in contact with the water.
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1474470/ocn-aquaero-owners-club/820#post_22408012


As I look closely my EK rads seem to have an additional plate/shroud on the ends so I am not sure the sensor will be getting an accurate temp.
EK Coolstream XE
https://shop.ekwb.com/ek-coolstream-xe-360-triple

What do you think?

I also purchased one of the Aqua G 1/4 inline temp fittings.
Should I place it on the in port of the CPU (this would be directly off the pump) or on the in port of a radiator.
Thanks
Dan


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DanBr*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> The sensors are designed to be taped to things to measure their temp so yes it is a way of doing it. Other people have said that they have had trouble getting that to work on painted rads though so that would be something to watch out for. Its not an issue with my current EK rads because they aren't painted underneath the Aluminium shroud.
> Most of the water sensor fittings that are available are just the same standard film sensor wrapped around or glued into a fitting so its no different. Just that a sensor on the end tank of a rad has a much higher surface area of thinner metal in contact with the water.
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1474470/ocn-aquaero-owners-club/820#post_22408012
> 
> 
> 
> As I look closely my EK rads seem to have an additional plate/shroud on the ends so I am not sure the sensor will be getting an accurate temp.
> EK Coolstream XE
> https://shop.ekwb.com/ek-coolstream-xe-360-triple
> 
> What do you think?
> 
> I also purchased one of the Aqua G 1/4 inline temp fittings.
> Should I place it on the in port of the CPU (this would be directly off the pump) or on the in port of a radiator.
> Thanks
> Dan
Click to expand...

I just use these Bitspower temp fittings in T or Q type fittings at the rads, about as good and reliable as they are easy to use:


----------



## InfoSeeker

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jflisk*
> 
> 
> 
> Please see above


You have only a 1.5° temp swing (8.5° to 10°) on the water/ambient delta from idle to loaded?
If so, the controller is doing what it should by having your fans @ 65% with a 9.2° delta.


----------



## deeph

Hi there,

I recently bought this AC XT 450 reservoir. But I only have tight space in Carbide 540 Air. So if I put the reservoir horizontally, will I ruin sensor reading?

Thanks
Deeph


----------



## Jflisk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *InfoSeeker*
> 
> You have only a 1.5° temp swing (8.5° to 10°) on the water/ambient delta from idle to loaded?
> If so, the controller is doing what it should by having your fans @ 65% with a 9.2° delta.


Yes for some reason 8c is the bottom and 10c is the top. The FX 9590 I have runs extremely hot to say the least and adds a lot of heat into my system. I have to check the top end again but 10C is what I was getting. Thanks


----------



## Jflisk

How about one of these for the temp sensor They make them in all different colors.
http://www.performance-pcs.com/xspc-g1-4-plug-with-10k-sensor-t-fitting-black-chrome.html
http://www.performance-pcs.com/xspc-g1-4-male-to-male-rotary-fitting-chrome-finish.html


----------



## InfoSeeker

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *deeph*
> 
> Hi there,
> 
> I recently bought this AC XT 450 reservoir. But I only have tight space in Carbide 540 Air. So if I put the reservoir horizontally, will I ruin sensor reading?
> 
> Thanks
> Deeph


No, the XT 450 ml should not be mounted on it's side, the pressure sensor must be below the bottom of the reservoir to work correctly. Also, I believe the pressure equalizing membrane installed in the top may leak.


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jflisk*
> 
> How about one of these for the temp sensor They make them in all different colors.
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/xspc-g1-4-plug-with-10k-sensor-t-fitting-black-chrome.html
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/xspc-g1-4-male-to-male-rotary-fitting-chrome-finish.html


Should be fine as they sre 10k but never used si not for sure


----------



## deeph

Thanks
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *InfoSeeker*
> 
> No, the XT 450 ml should not be mounted on it's side, the pressure sensor must be below the bottom of the reservoir to work correctly. Also, I believe the pressure equalizing membrane installed in the top may leak.


Thanks for your reply, I forgot there is a membrane on the top of reservoir. Should find another place in my case then. Maybe at the back near PSU.


----------



## rioja

Does anyone here have Aquacomputer D5 PWM pump and AE6?

What minimal % of duty (and RPM) possible to set for the pump?

Will it work at 10%?


----------



## jaganram

Looking at Aquaero 6 for my new build. I know its bit costly is it really worth it ? I want to control around 15 fans and temps


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jaganram*
> 
> Looking at Aquaero 6 for my new build. I know its bit costly is it really worth it ? I want to control around 15 fans and temps


In short yes


----------



## jaganram

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> In short yes


Looked at many others but really got impressed with Aquaero . Looks like i will be placing order soon then ty


----------



## LuckyFisher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Here we go folks and @Jakusonfire in particular. a shot of the PWM d5 pcb from Aqua:
> 
> 
> 
> high resolution clicking on the image on imgur. Notice what seems to be two diodes on the pcb/green wire.


Hello guys!
I'm currently working on a solution of converting D5 vario and non-vario into a PWM and maybe DC (for Koolance TMS-200) version.
This picture is very interesting and may be very useful if someone could provide additional photos of the PCB. Especially the part where the PWM pin is soldered.
I've been checking my PCB (MCP655 vario) and it has the same version of PCB - D5v1.51. I see that on this picture one additional resistor is present below the PWM pin.
Also I see two resistors and a Zener diode near the PWM cable solder place.
I think that I can make a circuit that allows converting a vario D5 pump into PWM but I need more pictures.
I would appreciate if someone could make more photos of this PCB.
Thanks!


----------



## Jflisk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jaganram*
> 
> Looking at Aquaero 6 for my new build. I know its bit costly is it really worth it ? I want to control around 15 fans and temps


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> In short yes


Could they get away with an aquacomputer 5 with a heat sink for the 15 fans. Not sure if they don't want the display or just control there fans but there's a 90.00 difference between 5lt and 6. Aquatuning.us has the aquacomputer 5 lt available. Me personally I have a LCD to read temps thru aida 64 so I don't need the display.


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LuckyFisher*
> 
> Hello guys!
> I'm currently working on a solution of converting D5 vario and non-vario into a PWM and maybe DC (for Koolance TMS-200) version.
> This picture is very interesting and may be very useful if someone could provide additional photos of the PCB. Especially the part where the PWM pin is soldered.
> I've been checking my PCB (MCP655 vario) and it has the same version of PCB - D5v1.51. I see that on this picture one additional resistor is present below the PWM pin.
> Also I see two resistors and a Zener diode near the PWM cable solder place.
> I think that I can make a circuit that allows converting a vario D5 pump into PWM but I need more pictures.
> I would appreciate if someone could make more photos of this PCB.
> Thanks!


I'm sure some of that is possible but not with any ease. It seems very likely that the PWM controlled version uses the same PWM motor control circuit that the Vario does.

This is a standard D5 PWM ... The PWM lead connects at the large round contact underneath where the Varios Variable resistor is mounted. You can see the extra components mounted there


This is a d5 vario showing the same area ... The three market contacts are where the potentiometer mounts


----------



## DanBr

I received my Farbwerk and connected it CORRECTLY (this time as I messed up the MSP400) via USB and opened Aquasuite and do not see it anywhere.
What am, I doing wrong?
I only had it connected with USB as I was just wanting to see how it showed up in the software
Dan

I used the same USB cable to motherboard that I had used to see the pump.
Do I need to have it in a new header on the motherboard?
The pump still shows up in the software but has an "X" over the USB. It should as it is not hooked up at this time

Should I be able to see it with just USB hooked up, or am I looking in the wrong place?
Thanks


----------



## Jflisk

Aida 64 there software is the bomb . If theres a problem they fix it does it cost oh yea. Is it worth it definitely.


----------



## Z0eff

Hello everybody, thinking of buying an A6 Pro to control somewhere between 8 and 18 fans depending on what exact setup I settle with, an aqua-computer D5 PWM, a bunch of temp sensors and a flow meter.









A few questions - Am planning to use a ModMyToys 8-way PWM fan splitter to connect 8x Vardar F4-120ER to the A6. Would this work? There's also a version that includes a SATA power connector but from what I've read so far the A6 should be more than capable of powering 8 fans on a single channel.

Which flow meter..? There's a whole bunch from aquacomputer to choose from. There's a few with MPS in the product name that have a few different versions for different flow rates and then there's a slightly bulkier one that seems to be capable of handling most of all those flow rates combined.


----------



## LuckyFisher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> I'm sure some of that is possible but not with any ease. It seems very likely that the PWM controlled version uses the same PWM motor control circuit that the Vario does.
> 
> This is a standard D5 PWM ... The PWM lead connects at the large round contact underneath where the Varios Variable resistor is mounted. You can see the extra components mounted there
> 
> 
> This is a d5 vario showing the same area ... The three market contacts are where the potentiometer mounts


Thanks!
The first picture is interesting, not too much components needed, I see two Zener diodes but can't see if there's a resistor to the right of the PWM contact?

And the second picture is D5 PWM from Aquacomputer, they put additional electronics for Aquabus connection and control.


----------



## Shoggy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jflisk*
> 
> On the fan curve what does the red bar do is that the cut off point. Thanks


The red line set the start temperature. Let us say your curve goes from 25 to 40°C and you place this line at 30°C. If the assigned fans are currently not running, you have to pass the 30°C limit before the controller will start to work. As long as it is active it will also respect your curve settings if the temperature falls below the limit which was set with the red line. As soon as you reach a temperature below 25°C the fans will stop. This is important: as soon as they have stopped the red line comes back into the action. Now you have to pass it again before the fans will start.

This function acts like a hysteresis and avoids the problem that if the temperature is near the lowest point of your curve the fans would up- and downturn all the time.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *InfoSeeker*
> 
> Also, I believe the pressure equalizing membrane installed in the top may leak.


No, it will not leak but when the membrane has become wet it will not work anymore (no more pressure equalization) and must be dried.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rioja*
> 
> Does anyone here have Aquacomputer D5 PWM pump and AE6?
> 
> What minimal % of duty (and RPM) possible to set for the pump?
> 
> Will it work at 10%?


You can use the full range from 0 to 100%. This is about 2000 to 4800 rpm but will depend on the pump since they all have some tolerances.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DanBr*
> 
> Should I be able to see it with just USB hooked up, or am I looking in the wrong place?


USB alone is not enough for the farbwerk. You also have to connect the 4-pin molex plug.


----------



## rioja

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> You can use the full range from 0 to 100%. This is about 2000 to 4800 rpm but will depend on the pump since they all have some tolerances.


This is why I am asking that,

EK stated their pump run at 1450 minimum



Swiftech - near 900 RPM at 10%



And Aquacomputer pump is 2000 minimum? Do you have PWM response graph?


----------



## Shoggy

We have no grpah for that pump.


----------



## DanBr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> USB alone is not enough for the farbwerk. You also have to connect the 4-pin molex plug.


Can I use a stand alone power supply for the 4 pin Molex and connect the USB to another computer that has the AquaSuite Software running to see the Farbwerk?

Or should I just wait until the computer that it will be going into is finished
Dan


----------



## rioja

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> We have no grpah for that pump.


Ok, but minimal RPM is 2000? Not less?


----------



## Shoggy

Could be also slightly lower - depends on what the pump is being controlled from. We used the regular D5 speeds as ideal. We could have easily modify the pump to allow a full range from 0 to 4800 which is useless. Even a speed below 2000 is already pretty useless. Of course it seems to be cool to get even lower speeds as fist sight but believe me, you will not use it in real life.


----------



## fast_fate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> Could be also slightly lower - depends on what the pump is being controlled from. We used the regular D5 speeds as ideal. We could have easily modify the pump to allow a full range from 0 to 4800 which is useless.
> *Even a speed below 2000 is already pretty useless. Of course it seems to be cool to get even lower speeds as fist sight but believe me, you will not use it in real life*.


Exactly This
+1


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Jflisk*
> 
> On the fan curve what does the red bar do is that the cut off point. Thanks
> 
> 
> 
> The red line set the start temperature. Let us say your curve goes from 25 to 40°C and you place this line at 30°C. If the assigned fans are currently not running, you have to pass the 30°C limit before the controller will start to work. As long as it is active it will also respect your curve settings if the temperature falls below the limit which was set with the red line. As soon as you reach a temperature below 25°C the fans will stop. This is important: as soon as they have stopped the red line comes back into the action. Now you have to pass it again before the fans will start.
> 
> This function acts like a hysteresis and avoids the problem that if the temperature is near the lowest point of your curve the fans would up- and downturn all the time.
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *InfoSeeker*
> 
> Also, I believe the pressure equalizing membrane installed in the top may leak.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> No, it will not leak but when the membrane has become wet it will not work anymore (no more pressure equalization) and must be dried.
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *rioja*
> 
> Does anyone here have Aquacomputer D5 PWM pump and AE6?
> 
> What minimal % of duty (and RPM) possible to set for the pump?
> 
> Will it work at 10%?
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> *You can use the full range from 0 to 100%. This is about 2000 to 4800 rpm but will depend on the pump since they all have some tolerances.
> 
> *
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *DanBr*
> 
> Should I be able to see it with just USB hooked up, or am I looking in the wrong place?
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> USB alone is not enough for the farbwerk. You also have to connect the 4-pin molex plug.
Click to expand...

I find that very interesting, as it is not what I see with other PWM D5s . . . . It is about what you'd expect with the Vario though . . . .

Disregard for the moment whether you need rpms below 2000,

All the PWM D5's I've worked with will run at a min of 810 to 840 rpm at about 10% duty cycle and below, and the D5 uniquely, will turn off at 0%, (PWM line connected to ground) and not come back on again until about 8%.

I'm almost wondering at this point, if the AC PWM version really is PWM in the same way all the other PWM D5s are, or if it's just integrating the PWM signal into an average DC voltage, and using that like the wiper output from the vario's pot. . . . and that it's just a modified Vario, the same as their USB D5 is essentially a modified Vario . . .

Can you shed some light on this Shoggy?

Darlene

@DanBr To use an external PSU for the Farby, it would have to have both the 12V and 5V outputs.

You'd also need the keep the USB cable to the PC plugged up as there will need to be a connection to keep the ground of the Farby and the PSU powering it, referenced to the PC's PSU ground, which the USB cable would provide.


----------



## rioja

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> I find that very interesting, as it is not what I see with other PWM D5s . . . . It is about what you'd expect with the Vario though . . . .
> 
> Disregard for the moment whether you need rpms below 2000,
> 
> All the PWM D5's I've worked with will run at a min of 810 to 840 rpm at about 10% duty cycle and below, and the D5 uniquely, will turn off at 0%, (PWM line connected to ground) and not come back on again until about 8%.
> 
> I'm almost wondering at this point, if the AC PWM version really is PWM in the same way all the other PWM D5s are, or if it's just integrating the PWM signal into an average DC voltage, and using that like the wiper output from the vario's pot. . . . and that it's just a modified Vario, the same as their USB D5 is essentially a modified Vario . . .


These pumps I need, 800 RPM at 10%. What pumps are these?

Low RPM maybe useful when running two pumps in serial.


----------



## Jflisk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Z0eff*
> 
> Hello everybody, thinking of buying an A6 Pro to control somewhere between 8 and 18 fans depending on what exact setup I settle with, an aqua-computer D5 PWM, a bunch of temp sensors and a flow meter.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A few questions - Am planning to use a ModMyToys 8-way PWM fan splitter to connect 8x Vardar F4-120ER to the A6. Would this work? There's also a version that includes a SATA power connector but from what I've read so far the A6 should be more than capable of powering 8 fans on a single channel.
> 
> Which flow meter..? There's a whole bunch from aquacomputer to choose from. There's a few with MPS in the product name that have a few different versions for different flow rates and then there's a slightly bulkier one that seems to be capable of handling most of all those flow rates combined.


You have to look at the flow of your pumps different pumps different flow . I use a koolance flow sensor (totally different story ) on mine but I would stick with aqua high flow the slightly bulkier one as you put it to cover your bases

http://www.performance-pcs.com/aquacomputer-flow-sensor-high-flow-g1-4-for-aquaero-aquastream-xt-ultra-and-poweradjust.html#Details
or the one you gave . one in the same
http://shop.aquacomputer.de/product_info.php?products_id=2294


----------



## kwomo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rioja*
> 
> These pumps I need, 800 RPM at 10%. What pumps are these?
> 
> Low RPM maybe useful when running two pumps in serial.


The D5's I bought from EK do this.


----------



## Z0eff

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jflisk*
> 
> You have to look at the flow of your pumps different pumps different flow . I use a koolance flow sensor (totally different story ) on mine but I would stick with aqua high flow the slightly bulkier one as you put it to cover your bases
> 
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/aquacomputer-flow-sensor-high-flow-g1-4-for-aquaero-aquastream-xt-ultra-and-poweradjust.html#Details
> or the one you gave . one in the same
> http://shop.aquacomputer.de/product_info.php?products_id=2294


Doesn't the flow in the end depend on the whole loop, not just the pump?

I wonder, what are the advantages of using the aquabus interface over a regular 3 or 4 pin connection? Is that more accurate?


----------



## Jflisk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Z0eff*
> 
> Doesn't the flow in the end depend on the whole loop, not just the pump?
> 
> I wonder, what are the advantages of using the aquabus interface over a regular 3 or 4 pin connection? Is that more accurate?


Yes flow is dependent on the total loop pumps-rads-blocks. I have 2xD5 pumps and low amounts of rads and one block right now. So I would read off the charts on a low flow meter. I use a koolance with flow meter adapter that comes up to the same price as the Aquacomputer high flow meter but I had the Koolance before I had the aquacomputer. I am not sure on the second part of the question. But I would imagine that the flow is the flow no matter where or how its read( in other words it is constant unless you add something to create restriction hence lowering the flow). Mine comes off the Flow header on the Aquacomputer.The best bet on getting an idea of intial flow at least in my situation is take the pump and res connect it directly to the flow meter get the initial read for just the flow meter then add blocks-rads ect. In other words get a baseline then take it from there. The flow meter is good for finding problems and for emergency shut off. If the flow drops to low or the system shuts off indicates a blockage or leak. I think you get the idea. Thanks


----------



## LuckyFisher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Here we go folks and @Jakusonfire in particular. a shot of the PWM d5 pcb from Aqua:
> 
> 
> 
> high resolution clicking on the image on imgur. Notice what seems to be two diodes on the pcb/green wire.


Hello! Can you please take a picture of what is behind the silicone (green wire connection point)?
Thanks!


----------



## Z0eff

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jflisk*
> 
> Yes flow is dependent on the total loop pumps-rads-blocks. I have 2xD5 pumps and low amounts of rads and one block right now. So I would read off the charts on a low flow meter. I use a koolance with flow meter adapter that comes up to the same price as the Aquacomputer high flow meter but I had the Koolance before I had the aquacomputer. I am not sure on the second part of the question. But I would imagine that the flow is the flow no matter where or how its read( in other words it is constant unless you add something to create restriction hence lowering the flow). Mine comes off the Flow header on the Aquacomputer.The best bet on getting an idea of intial flow at least in my situation is take the pump and res connect it directly to the flow meter get the initial read for just the flow meter then add blocks-rads ect. In other words get a baseline then take it from there. The flow meter is good for finding problems and for emergency shut off. If the flow drops to low or the system shuts off indicates a blockage or leak. I think you get the idea. Thanks


Yeah I'm leaning towards using the flow connector over the aquabus, the aquabus interface doesn't seem to give anything in particular while the 3-pin connection seems more universal. Unless anybody else can point me to the benefit of using the aquabus interface?


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> I find that very interesting, as it is not what I see with other PWM D5s . . . . It is about what you'd expect with the Vario though . . . .
> 
> Disregard for the moment whether you need rpms below 2000,
> 
> All the PWM D5's I've worked with will run at a min of 810 to 840 rpm at about 10% duty cycle and below, and the D5 uniquely, will turn off at 0%, (PWM line connected to ground) and not come back on again until about 8%.
> 
> I'm almost wondering at this point, if the AC PWM version really is PWM in the same way all the other PWM D5s are, or if it's just integrating the PWM signal into an average DC voltage, and using that like the wiper output from the vario's pot. . . . and that it's just a modified Vario, the same as their USB D5 is essentially a modified Vario . . .
> 
> Can you shed some light on this Shoggy?
> 
> Darlene
> 
> @DanBr To use an external PSU for the Farby, it would have to have both the 12V and 5V outputs.
> 
> You'd also need the keep the USB cable to the PC plugged up as there will need to be a connection to keep the ground of the Farby and the PSU powering it, referenced to the PC's PSU ground, which the USB cable would provide.


Mine go to 1430 rpm at 1% in the Aquaero Darlene. I can't get any lower than that.. LuckyFisher I can try to take more pictures but I am not willing to take the silicone out to take a better pic of the pcb. Will post latter here some more pics.


----------



## LuckyFisher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Mine go to 1430 rpm at 1% in the Aquaero Darlene. I can't get any lower than that.. LuckyFisher I can try to take more pictures but I am not willing to take the silicone out to take a better pic of the pcb. Will post latter here some more pics.


OK, thank you! Would appreciate any help!


----------



## Jflisk

I got with Aid64 on there forum yesterday. If you use Aida64 and aquasuite \computer Flow rate now shows in Aida64 after today's update.


----------



## LuckyFisher

So I managed to desolder the 10k potentiometer from my D5 Vario and now I'm trying to figure out the following: the pump runs at maximum RPMs when adjustment pin (red circle) is at 0V and at minimum RPMs when this pin is at 5V. Of course it can be driven through an NPN or N-channel transistor to get the PWM function but that's not how it works on true PWM pumps.
Any ideas?


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LuckyFisher*
> 
> So I managed to desolder the 10k potentiometer from my D5 Vario and now I'm trying to figure out the following: the pump runs at maximum RPMs when adjustment pin (red circle) is at 0V and at minimum RPMs when this pin is at 5V. Of course it can be driven through an NPN or N-channel transistor to get the PWM function but that's not how it works on true PWM pumps.
> Any ideas?


It looks a lot like the Vario is being controlled with a P channel mosfet, mostly thru its linear range, and that to control it via PWM, all you'd need is a NPN transistor to 180* phase shift the normal PWM signal so it works properly to just switch the mosfet.

Unfortunately, until we see the underside of the PCB, all we can do is speculate.

Darlene


----------



## rioja

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kwomo*
> 
> The D5's I bought from EK do this.


This is strange because EK site claims it must be 1400 minimum, maybe you have old version or smth?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Mine go to 1430 rpm at 1% in the Aquaero Darlene. I can't get any lower than that.. LuckyFisher I can try to take more pictures but I am not willing to take the silicone out to take a better pic of the pcb. Will post latter here some more pics.


What pump do u have?


----------



## LuckyFisher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> It looks a lot like the Vario is being controlled with a P channel mosfet, mostly thru its linear range, and that to control it via PWM, all you'd need is a NPN transistor to 180* phase shift the normal PWM signal so it works properly to just switch the mosfet.
> 
> Unfortunately, until we see the underside of the PCB, all we can do is speculate.
> 
> Darlene


Yeah, I see this as the only reasonable answer. I soldered a 4.7 kOhm resistor to the contacs where it usually is in PWM pumps. It limits the current from PWM pin to the circuit and also it seems to be a part of an RC filter that makes PWM signal more linear. Unfortunately I don't know the values of Zener diodes that must be soldered at D2 and D3 places, but I guess they are unnecessary if we know that PWM range won't get out of limits.

So I made a test circuit that allows to drive the D5 Vario from an analog voltage of 7.7V for 1st speed to 12.7V for 5th (have TMS-200). If it works then I can be sure that the pump can be driven from 0 to 12 Volts and of course PWM.

Will post more info later.


----------



## Jflisk

Too bad you cant find a used non working D5 online. Just a suggestion -Then you would have everything you need.


----------



## Jflisk

How do I test the emergency shut off in the system. Without having to disconnect the relay connector to get the computer started. Aquacomputer 5 - Any suggestions - Thanks


----------



## LuckyFisher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jflisk*
> 
> Too bad you cant find a used non working D5 online. Just a suggestion -Then you would have everything you need.


Yeah, that would be great but here in Ukraine it's hard to find this equipment. All components I used for my builds were purchase from USA but the shipping costs make even a dead pump not worth a purchase


----------



## Jflisk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LuckyFisher*
> 
> Yeah, that would be great but here in Ukraine it's hard to find this equipment. All components I used for my builds were purchase from USA but the shipping costs make even a dead pump not worth a purchase


I didn't realize where you were located


----------



## LuckyFisher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jflisk*
> 
> I didn't realize where you were located


That's OK







Anyway I like building and constructing something noone did before so it's a little challenge with the pump








And it's always good to have smth configured personally for myself.


----------



## Archea47

Aquaero 6 Heatsink:



Notice the Case Labs short, non-conforming brackets as recommended in the first post of this club







2 of the included (from CL) shims on each side seem to be the right fit:


----------



## Jflisk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Archea47*
> 
> Aquaero 6 Heatsink:
> 
> 
> 
> Notice the Case Labs short, non-conforming brackets as recommended in the first post of this club
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 2 of the included (from CL) shims on each side seem to be the right fit:


That is a nice case and just keeps getting better everytime I see it


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LuckyFisher*
> 
> OK, thank you! Would appreciate any help!


Here we go mate. Shots of the Aq d5 pwm and a regular Laing d5 pwm. If you keep clicking on the photos you will see high resolution of it.









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rioja*
> 
> This is strange because EK site claims it must be 1400 minimum, maybe you have old version or smth?
> What pump do u have?


We were talking about the D5 PWM from Aquacomputer. Minimum rpm around 1430.


----------



## Jflisk

Is that green wire the control wire and what pin is it on the Fan header. I would imagine soldering a green wire to the same contact would give a pwm control to the pump.Is that what I am seeing there. Thanks


----------



## LuckyFisher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Here we go mate. Shots of the Aq d5 pwm and a regular Laing d5 pwm. If you keep clicking on the photos you will see high resolution of it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> We were talking about the D5 PWM from Aquacomputer. Minimum rpm around 1430.


Thank you very much for the pictures!!!
So I see that the difference in these two pumps is only in the resistor divider connected to PWM wire.
The divider is pulling up the PWM line of the pump when the PWM signal is low thus providing some potential on the PWM pin of the pump and that's why people get around 1.4k RPMs with PWM line disconnected. Desoldering that divider and connecting the PWM wire to the AC pin will allow the pump to rotate at lower speed with PWM disconnected.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LuckyFisher*
> 
> Thank you very much for the pictures!!!
> So I see that the difference in these two pumps is only in the resistor divider connected to PWM wire.
> The divider is pulling up the PWM line of the pump when the PWM signal is low thus providing some potential on the PWM pin of the pump and that's why people get around 1.4k RPMs with PWM line disconnected. Desoldering that divider and connecting the PWM wire to the AC pin will allow the pump to rotate at lower speed with PWM disconnected.


Welcome mate. Just to be sure. The regular Laing d5 without the pwm connected run at 60% rpm. The aquacomputer PWM runs at 100% without the pwm cable connected. The 1.4 k rpm was my reporting back of the minimum rpm I can attain with the Aq d5 pwm with the pwm signal at 1% in the Aquaero.


----------



## LuckyFisher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Welcome mate. Just to be sure. The regular Laing d5 without the pwm connected run at 60% rpm. The aquacomputer PWM runs at 100% without the pwm cable connected. The 1.4 k rpm was my reporting back of the minimum rpm I can attain with the Aq d5 pwm with the pwm signal at 1% in the Aquaero.


I didn't yet have an opportunity to measure the RPMs of my pump after I desoldered the potentiometer but I feel like it runs at around 60%-70% without it because the circuit gives around 1.4 V to the regulation pin (don't forget that this pin of my MCP655 works in inverted way and 0 on that pin gives max RPMs).

And with Aquacomputer when you disconnect the PWM pin and the corresponding contact of the pump is floating and not getting grounded the AC pad gets pulled up to 5V via the 10k resistor thus resulting in full speed. And when you run it at 1% the divider works the following way: let's assume the PWM pin is 0% but connected so grounded. If so than the regulation pin will get 5V divided with 10k and 3.3k resistors - around 1.24V - it pretty matches the 1.4K RPMs.


----------



## LuckyFisher

And here are the first results  : https://youtu.be/mfMsJbEUg1U


----------



## Shoggy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jflisk*
> 
> How do I test the emergency shut off in the system. Without having to disconnect the relay connector to get the computer started. Aquacomputer 5 - Any suggestions - Thanks


I assume you also want to use the relay for the shutdown? Di do not understand your note about disconnecting the cable to start the PC. When you connect the green wire to the pins 2 and 3 the default state is that the connection is closed.

For a test I recommend to connect one of these foil sensors and to set ana alrm for it which is a bit above the ambient temperature. Afterwards go into the BIOS so you do not have to "crash" Windows. When you touch the sensor the temperature will rise and if you have done your configuration correctly the PC will turn off.


----------



## Roch

Given up trying to get my 5LT to work properly. It hates any PWM fans I've tried to use on a splitter, used both the akasa and swiftech ones and the fans just spin flat out.gone through several different noiseblocker fans as well. Doesn't help there's no real documentation on setup or a compatibility list, wasted too long on it now, think I might tread on it too release some of the anger it's caused me.


----------



## fast_fate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Roch*
> 
> Given up trying to get my 5LT to work properly. It hates any PWM fans I've tried to use on a splitter, used both the akasa and swiftech ones and the fans just spin flat out.gone through several different noiseblocker fans as well. Doesn't help there's no real documentation on setup or a compatibility list, wasted too long on it now, think I might tread on it too release some of the anger it's caused me.


Had a quick look but couldn't find any posts or a separate thread where you posted about issues you are having with the 5LT.
This thread has heaps of very knowledgeable regulars that will happily assist and try to get that Aquaero operating correctly and to meet your expectations









Would help greatly if you can provide details and if possible some photos.
What do you currently have connected and to what headers.
Voltage or PWM
How is power delivered.
splitter devices - extrra rpm pins/traces cut removed/disabled.
The more info the easier it will be to try asnd pinpoint the cause of the frustration.

Hang in there help is on the way


----------



## Roch

Thanks. I've posted on the aquacomputer's forum and at O-CuK. I can get it to control GT15's and any other 3 pin fans OK but anything pwm and it just seems to run full whack unless I only have one fan connected. I've tried noiseblocker multi frames and pk17's, both do the same thing. I connected two of them with a non powered akasa splitter and it kind of worked but made a whining noise, using three of them on an akasa molex powered one and they don't adjust. I've got a Swiftech 240x and if I use the 8 way splitter it comes with the fans continually cycle between full and low for no apparent reason.


----------



## Jflisk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> I assume you also want to use the relay for the shutdown? Di do not understand your note about disconnecting the cable to start the PC. When you connect the green wire to the pins 2 and 3 the default state is that the connection is closed.
> 
> For a test I recommend to connect one of these foil sensors and to set ana alrm for it which is a bit above the ambient temperature. Afterwards go into the BIOS so you do not have to "crash" Windows. When you touch the sensor the temperature will rise and if you have done your configuration correctly the PC will turn off.


That makes sense for the test. What i was thinking is the relay stays firing as long as there is a alarm.I already have the ambient temperature sensor set up. So use that as the shut off hold the sensor and bring the temperature up to create the switch closed on the relay thru the alarms. So basically 1+3 close the switch like pressing the power button.I don't have the special power connector. I have a power switch shunt cable.


----------



## Shoggy

You have to use pin 2+3 (for aquaero 6 series it is 1+3). When the relay switches it will connect pin 1+3 in your case but it has no purpose for the shutdown.

It is also not really the same as pressing the power button. When you press the power button it will only cause an action in Windows which can be also configured. Normally the PC will go into standby mode or shut down. The green wire with the relay will immediately cut the power so there is no controlled shut down.

The aquaero also allows to do a controlled shutdown since it registers itself to the system as keyboard so it can "press" a shut down or standby key like the ones on multimedia keyboards. You could also do a clever two step shut down here. At first you try to shut down the system in a controlled way with the keyboard command and it the temperatures still goes up a little further you can use the relay to do the hard shut down.

Well, there are many ways how you could solve the shut down thing


----------



## Jflisk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> You have to use pin 2+3 (for aquaero 6 series it is 1+3). When the relay switches it will connect pin 1+3 in your case but it has no purpose for the shutdown.
> 
> It is also not really the same as pressing the power button. When you press the power button it will only cause an action in Windows which can be also configured. Normally the PC will go into standby mode or shut down. The green wire with the relay will immediately cut the power so there is no controlled shut down.
> 
> The aquaero also allows to do a controlled shutdown since it registers itself to the system as keyboard so it can "press" a shut down or standby key like the ones on multimedia keyboards. You could also do a clever two step shut down here. At first you try to shut down the system in a controlled way with the keyboard command and it the temperatures still goes up a little further you can use the relay to do the hard shut down.
> 
> Well, there are many ways how you could solve the shut down thing


Shoggy
This is the way I have it set up are you telling me 2+3 on the relay shuts it down with the 5LT not the 1+3 . I am looking for what the cable I have actuall looks like. Thanks

http://www.overclock.net/t/1474470/ocn-aquaero-owners-club/2900#post_23341151

The basics of the cable I have 2 wire to each source and MB
Power switch - Shut down source to MB header

Just hate when you cant find the information when you need it









Found it this is the cable I am using for the shut down
http://www.performance-pcs.com/accessories-misc/koolance-atx-pass-through-wire.html

Thanks in advance


----------



## Shoggy

I thought you are using this cable? If not, and you want to connect the relay parallel to the power button, you have to use pin 1+3.

Pin 1:normally open
Pin 2: normally closed
Pin 3: common connector (to Pin 1 and 2)

If you think about it, it is pretty easy. If you use the mentioned break adapter you have to use pin 2+3 so the the connection will be closed by default because otherwise you will not be able to start the PC. In case of an alarm the relay will switch and interrupt this connection so the PSU will turn off.

If you use a parallel connection to the power button you have to use pin 1 and 3 because otherwise the mainboard will think you are pressing the button all the time. In case of an alarm the relay can switch shortly so it is like you press the button to start an action or you can switch it for a longer time like you would press the button for a longer time to shut down the PC directly.


----------



## Jflisk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I thought you are using this cable? If not, and you want to connect the relay parallel to the power button, you have to use pin 1+3.
> 
> Pin 1:normally open
> Pin 2: normally closed
> Pin 3: common connector (to Pin 1 and 2)
> 
> If you think about it, it is pretty easy. If you use the mentioned break adapter you have to use pin 2+3 so the the connection will be closed by default because otherwise you will not be able to start the PC. In case of an alarm the relay will switch and interrupt this connection so the PSU will turn off.
> 
> If you use a parallel connection to the power button you have to use pin 1 and 3 because otherwise the mainboard will think you are pressing the button all the time. In case of an alarm the relay can switch shortly so it is like you press the button to start an action or you can switch it for a longer time like you would press the button for a longer time to shut down the PC directly.


Shoggy
Thanks now I under stand . Theres just so much information out there on how to do this it gets confusing. Appreciate the help


----------



## fast_fate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Roch*
> 
> Thanks. I've posted on the aquacomputer's forum and at O-CuK. I can get it to control GT15's and any other 3 pin fans OK but *anything pwm and it just seems to run full whack unless I only have one fan connected*. I've tried noiseblocker multi frames and pk17's, both do the same thing. I connected two of them with a non powered akasa splitter and it kind of worked but made a whining noise, using three of them on an akasa molex powered one and they don't adjust. I've got a Swiftech 240x and if I use the 8 way splitter it comes with the fans continually cycle between full and low for no apparent reason.


Hmmm, well








Using the Swiftech splitter should give you the best chance of success.
At least we know they have all unnecessary tach/rpm pins not enabled.
So I guess it's back to basic checks.
Splitter cable is connected to header 4 on the 5LT (the only PWM channell)
fan for rpm signal is connected to CH1 on the Swiftech splitter
checked for continuation with multimeter on the splitter.

Not much to go on with







, sounds like you have made some pretty decent attempts.
Maybe some of the gurus will have some more options for you to try.

*EDIT:* Hey Gabz - notice I made bold some text above in Roch's post - 1 PWM fan seems to work OK


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Roch*
> 
> Thanks. I've posted on the aquacomputer's forum and at O-CuK. I can get it to control GT15's and any other 3 pin fans OK but anything pwm and it just seems to run full whack unless I only have one fan connected. I've tried noiseblocker multi frames and pk17's, both do the same thing. I connected two of them with a non powered akasa splitter and it kind of worked but made a whining noise, using three of them on an akasa molex powered one and they don't adjust. I've got a Swiftech 240x and if I use the 8 way splitter it comes with the fans continually cycle between full and low for no apparent reason.


Try to troubleshoot using one fan only to remove the splitter variable from the equation. With one PWM fan and the 4th fan header configured to PWM is it working fine? If you add the 4th fan header to the controller can you adjust the fan speed?


----------



## josetortola

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> OK, we will have a look into that.


Has there been any progress on this issue?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *josetortola*
> 
> One more update to this...
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Martin*
> 
> Regarding availability of remote sensors to 3rd party applications, I have posted the required information how to do it to developers. They will need to check for the update and implement it.
Click to expand...

Thanks, once again


----------



## Shoggy

We are on it but I can not tell if it will be inside the next update.

*Update:* brand new HwINFO v5.03-2600 Beta is "our" Beta







The next aquasuite version supports it now. We had a few conversations with Martin today to change some stuff for us.


----------



## DanBr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I thought you are using this cable? If not, and you want to connect the relay parallel to the power button, you have to use pin 1+3.
> 
> Pin 1:normally open
> Pin 2: normally closed
> Pin 3: common connector (to Pin 1 and 2)
> 
> If you think about it, it is pretty easy. If you use the mentioned break adapter you have to use pin 2+3 so the the connection will be closed by default because otherwise you will not be able to start the PC. In case of an alarm the relay will switch and interrupt this connection so the PSU will turn off.
> 
> If you use a parallel connection to the power button you have to use pin 1 and 3 because otherwise the mainboard will think you are pressing the button all the time. In case of an alarm the relay can switch shortly so it is like you press the button to start an action or you can switch it for a longer time like you would press the button for a longer time to shut down the PC directly.


Shoggy,
Is the cable the Jflisk linked to
http://www.performance-pcs.com/accessories-misc/koolance-atx-pass-through-wire.html
the parallel connection you refer to?
To What and to Where do you connect each of the 3 ends on this cable?
How then do you configure it to shut down the PC?
Is it when the pump fails or gets below a certain flow?
Would it be if the flow rate drops( then is it getting info from the MSP 400)?
Thanks
Dan


----------



## Shoggy

You could use this cable but it was not made for this purpose so you will have to find a way to connect the relay to it. You can not plug it in directly to the relay because the size will be different.

Plug 1: mainboard
Plug 2: aquaero relay pin 1+3
Plug 3: power button of the case

You could use this configuration for example:





You can freely configure any kind of alarm in the tab alarm configuration. Can be temperature, flow, rpm etc. Of course you can also use several alarm settings at once to trigger a specific alarm action.


----------



## josetortola

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> We are on it but I can not tell if it will be inside the next update.
> 
> *Update:* brand new HwINFO v5.03-2600 Beta is "our" Beta
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The next aquasuite version supports it now. We had a few conversations with Martin today to change some stuff for us.


It sounds really good









I'm trying it as soon as I can.

Thank you very much!


----------



## iBruce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fast_fate*
> 
> Had a quick look but couldn't find any posts or a separate thread where you posted about issues you are having with the 5LT.
> This thread has heaps of *very knowledgeable regulars* that will happily assist and try to get that Aquaero operating correctly and to meet your expectations
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Would help greatly if you can provide details and if possible some photos.
> What do you currently have connected and to what headers.
> Voltage or PWM
> How is power delivered.
> splitter devices - extrra rpm pins/traces cut removed/disabled.
> The more info the easier it will be to try asnd pinpoint the cause of the frustration.
> 
> Hang in there help is on the way


I'm not one of those.









Getting ready to order a new AquaComputer D5, should I go with the AC USB again or the new PWM? PWM is less expensive yet takes up one channel of the Aquaero 6. Is there any advantage of the PWM D5 over the USB D5 other than cost?

Thank you, all sound advice is much appreciated.

http://s296.photobucket.com/user/iBruceEVGA/media/IMG_3093_zpsnnwqvfar.jpg.html


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iBruce*
> 
> I'm not one of those.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Getting ready to order a new AquaComputer D5, should I go with the AC USB again or the new PWM? PWM is less expensive yet takes up one channel of the Aquaero 6. Is there any advantage of the PWM D5 over the USB D5 other than cost?
> 
> Thank you, all sound advice is much appreciated.
> 
> http://s296.photobucket.com/user/iBruceEVGA/media/IMG_3093_zpsnnwqvfar.jpg.html


The only other advantage is better control but not sure gow much of an advantage that is since you will set it and not be miving speed up and down


----------



## zerophase

I'm having issues getting the Phanteks 3 pin fan to pwm splitter working with the 6 xt. I have 5 fans plugged into it three are 3 pin, and two are pwm with the 3 pins on the key plugged in. Only 1 fan is in header 1.

**update: grabbed my swiftech 8 way pwm splitter, plugged my two pwm fans into it (one is on channel one) and plugged the Phanteks hub into the 8 way. Case fans still aren't spinning.

The 8 way fan splitters on fan channel 1 and 2 work perfectly fine. I'm also pretty sure the pumps are running too. (No pump is showing up an the Aquaero under the pump category when just the Aquaero is receiving power) Both pumps are pwm pumps.

**Update: looks like the pumps are not running. They might be running, can't tell if the vibration is coming from the pump or rad fans; also the rad fans mask the pump's buzz. I just need to perform the mod on the swiftech splitter cable to get them to run with the Aquaero?

I tried going into the Aquaero and switching all fans from power to pwm control,and that didn't work. Any suggestions?

Found this post, which seems to make it sound like they got the hub working, but the translation from German to English doesn't make the most sense.


----------



## iBruce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> The only other advantage is better control but not sure gow much of an advantage that is since you will set it and not be miving speed up and down


Think I'll go with the new AquaComputer PWM D5 seems more interesting than having two of the same AC USB D5s and a PowerAdjust 3 Ultra module also something new and interesting to gain back the fourth channel.

PPCS has been OOS with the black PowerAdjust heat sinks all summer, not sure what that's all about, but more arriving with the next AC shipment.

Found an ideal mounting location for the Aquaero 6 as an LT on the "almost square" accessory mounting plate that comes with all CaseLabs Mercury 8-slot cases, the mounting holes align perfectly just needed longer hardware to thread past the AC nickel spacers, left them in place to support the Aquaero PCB 6-8mm above the powder coat surface. Fastened only the two lower mounts leaving the two upper with the AC threaded nickel mounts also as PCB support above the chassis surface.

Looks nice will put up pics this weekend.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

I can't figure out how to set up the MPS 400 in Aquasuite. It is greek to me.

TCO


----------



## Shoggy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> I can't figure out how to set up the MPS 400 in Aquasuite. It is greek to me.


Not really complicated.



1.) Make sure that mps flow sensor is selected (should be already preset)

2.) Select your type of the sensor (should be already preset)

3.) Select your type of tubing or the next size that fits; 13/10 is fine for everything larger

4.) Import the calibration data and you are ready to go

Maybe you have to shutdown the system and wait a moment so the automatic calibration for zero flow can do its job.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> Not really complicated.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 1.) Make sure that mps flow sensor is selected (should be already preset)
> 
> 2.) Select your type of the sensor (should be already preset)
> 
> 3.) Select your type of tubing or the next size that fits; 13/10 is fine for everything larger
> 
> 4.) Import the calibration data and you are ready to go
> 
> Maybe you have to shutdown the system and wait a moment so the automatic calibration for zero flow can do its job.


Ok this is A good start.



What it looks like right now... but where is the flow? Does anything move in here?

TCO

I don't know where it is showing the acutal Flow though? Example .5gal/min etc... if that is even possible.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Ok this is A good start.
> 
> 
> 
> What it looks like right now... but where is the flow? Does anything move in here?
> 
> TCO
> 
> I don't know where it is showing the acutal Flow though? Example .5gal/min etc... if that is even possible.


in your pic flow is at 0. You have a an unscaled values on the the left below corner and that value is converted to flow showing up after flow calibration. You can also check the flow in alarm configuration. But again, in your pic flow is at zero. Aquasuite is set to show units in GPM? You might need to re-start the aquasuite. Also, if by any chance you place the in and out g1/4 ports of the MPS in the wrong orientation with your loop flow the readings will be zero.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> in your pic flow is at 0. You have a an unscaled values on the the left below corner and that value is converted to flow showing up after flow calibration. You can also check the flow in alarm configuration. But again, in your pic flow is at zero. Aquasuite is set to show units in GPM? You might need to re-start the aquasuite. Also, if by any chance you place the in and out g1/4 ports of the MPS in the wrong orientation with your loop flow the readings will be zero.


Here is another. It keeps going between 3 and 4 at the bottom



TCO

Ok changed 2nd box to what I think is Right.



Should I restart Now? But Save this?


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Here is another. It keeps going between 3 and 4 at the bottom
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> TCO
> 
> Ok changed 2nd box to what I think is Right.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ]
> 
> Should I restart Now? But Save this?


try this calibration TCO:

http://www.overclock.net/t/1501978/ocn-community-water-cooling-test-thread/460#post_23914558

download the file or save it in .xml. Open the import calibration tab and select the file. Voila, should fix your problems I think.

it is the one made by Jak for c47 fittings:

MPS400cal10mmLH.xml 1k .xml file


----------



## iBruce

Just got back from the friendly neighborhood water parts store.

AquaComputer D5 PWM and PowerAdjust 3 Ultra for the new build. Picked up some Thermal Grizzly also to give it a try.









Not certain if the Aquaero 6 with recognize the PWM pump as anything more than a fan, but I'm guessing it wont. That's cool.

http://s296.photobucket.com/user/iBruceEVGA/media/IMG_3667_zpshqh3w2jm.jpg.html

http://s296.photobucket.com/user/iBruceEVGA/media/IMG_3674_zps701wxuih.jpg.html

AH HA! The red LED on the PA Ultra has been replaced with a new blue LED, fresh solder flux.
 








http://s296.photobucket.com/user/iBruceEVGA/media/IMG_3679_zps98ajdhdn.jpg.html


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iBruce*
> 
> Just got back from the friendly neighborhood water parts store.
> 
> AquaComputer D5 PWM and PowerAdjust 3 Ultra for the new build. Picked up some Thermal Grizzly also to give it a try.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Not certain if the Aquaero 6 with recognize the PWM pump as anything more than a fan, but I'm guessing it wont. That's cool.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> http://s296.photobucket.com/user/iBruceEVGA/media/IMG_3667_zpshqh3w2jm.jpg.html
> 
> http://s296.photobucket.com/user/iBruceEVGA/media/IMG_3674_zps701wxuih.jpg.html
> 
> http://s296.photobucket.com/user/iBruceEVGA/media/IMG_3679_zps98ajdhdn.jpg.html


Yes, it will be just like a fan. To avoid constant ups and downs in RPM I set up my curve controller for the d5 pwm pumps like a 3 step curve increments.


----------



## iBruce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Yes, it will be just like a fan. To avoid constant ups and downs in RPM I set up my curve controller for the d5 pwm pumps like a 3 step curve increments.


You mean the pump rpms are constantly changing? What thermal sensor is used to determine the speed? Something inside the pump?

That's weird, thought I could just set it and forget it in AquaSuite, just like a PWM fan.

I was just going to use channel four.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> try this calibration TCO:
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1501978/ocn-community-water-cooling-test-thread/460#post_23914558
> 
> download the file or save it in .xml. Open the import calibration tab and select the file. Voila, should fix your problems I think.
> 
> it is the one made by Jak for c47 fittings:
> 
> MPS400cal10mmLH.xml 1k .xml file


Ok. I downloaded file.

Opening up Aquasuite.

Click on the Left Side where MPS Tab is.

The Drop down shows Config, Alarm Config and System

I Click on Config (First option under MPS)

It Shows This.



Click to Import Xml File at bottom of that Page.



Find File Saved on Cpu that you Linked.



And.... Nothing.



Just stays like this.

TCO


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iBruce*
> 
> You mean the pump rpms are constantly changing? What thermal sensor is used to determine the speed? Something inside the pump?
> 
> That's weird, thought I could just set it and forget it in AquaSuite, just like a PWM fan.
> 
> I was just going to use channel four.


it will behave just like a fan. You can set and forget if you want for sure. Example, minimum and maximum value at 100%, or 75% or whatever flow rate you want. But the point is it will behave just like a fan and adjust speed like your curve controller which is based on whatever temperature indicator you define (mine is the difference between ambient and water temp). If such difference is larger than 3 C then pump speed up to 50%, if larger than 5 C then 100 or something like that.

edit - @TheCautiousOne either you have a faulty unit or the in and out of the mps 400 are set opposite to the flow of your loop. If I remember correctly you have the mps 400 between a rad and gpu. Where is the direction of flow? From rad to GPU?


----------



## iBruce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> it will behave just like a fan. You can set and forget if you want for sure. Example, minimum and maximum value at 100%, or 75% or whatever flow rate you want. But the point is it will behave just like a fan and adjust speed like your curve controller which is based on whatever temperature indicator you define (mine is the difference between ambient and water temp). If such difference is larger than 3 C then pump speed up to 50%, if larger than 5 C then 100 or something like that.
> 
> edit - @TheCautiousOne either you have a faulty unit or the in and out of the mps 400 are set opposite to the flow of your loop.


Thanks, awesome configuration, +rep, I might do just that, will be using three of the AquaComputer inline water thermal sensors, can easily add one for ambient.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> it will behave just like a fan. You can set and forget if you want for sure. Example, minimum and maximum value at 100%, or 75% or whatever flow rate you want. But the point is it will behave just like a fan and adjust speed like your curve controller which is based on whatever temperature indicator you define (mine is the difference between ambient and water temp). If such difference is larger than 3 C then pump speed up to 50%, if larger than 5 C then 100 or something like that.
> 
> edit - @TheCautiousOne either you have a faulty unit or the in and out of the mps 400 are set opposite to the flow of your loop. If I remember correctly you have the mps 400 between a rad and gpu. Where is the direction of flow? From rad to GPU?





So the Loop is as such. The Res/To Pump/To Rad/ To Flow Meter/ To GPU Block/ To Cpu Block/ To Res.

I checked the in and out of the MPS400.

The "In" is right next to the Rad and the "Out" is fluid going out to the GPU block.

Pretty sure I have the Config of the MPS 400 correct.

But Man!!!

TCO


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So the Loop is as such. The Res/To Pump/To Rad/ To Flow Meter/ To GPU Block/ To Cpu Block/ To Res.
> 
> I checked the in and out of the MPS400.
> 
> The "In" is right next to the Rad and the "Out" is fluid going out to the GPU block.
> 
> Pretty sure I have the Config of the MPS 400 correct.
> 
> But Man!!!
> 
> TCO


it is correct... mmm. Two last things that occur to me. MPS 400 is connected via USB only and on the priority tab is set to USB priority correct? Try to set the units in Aquasuite configuration page to Liters per minute or liter per hour. It will ask to re-start. Check flow. If nothing. revert back to GPM. Re-start. Still nothing? if so I run out of ideas and would say you got a bad pcb...

Another possibility is that the aurora blocked the two small holes that measure the pressure difference? In my tests with aurora it did not happen but.... Also, mind you, that the orientation of the USB connection on both MPS 400 and MB is critical, as with many if not all MPS devices. If by any chance you revert the red and blacks wires at some point that might fry the pcb...Final possibility. Check cable (usb) integrity. I have a d5 USB not adjusting speeed because one of the wires on the USB cable at some point became loose. I spend like a month thinking the pump was in need of rma until I noticed the loose wire...


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> it is correct... mmm. Two last things that occur to me. MPS 400 is connected via USB only and on the priority tab is set to USB priority correct? Try to set the units in Aquasuite configuration page to Liters per minute or liter per hour. It will ask to re-start. Check flow. If nothing. revert back to GPM. Re-start. Still nothing? if so I run out of ideas and would say you got a bad pcb...


Something happened. Maybe it had to sit and actually register the Flow?



TCO

I've restarted it with L/Hour and where is says Load Flow Cal Curve I have it Set for 400. Is that Correct?


----------



## bigjdubb

anyone know if there is a way I could e-mail someone with Auqua Computer the details of what I want to do with my system and get recommendations of which products I need to get the job done? I'm a little baffled by the amount of options there are available and what add on pieces for the Aquaero I would need.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Now a Usb Problem?



TCO


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Something happened. Maybe it had to sit and actually register the Flow?
> 
> 
> 
> TCO
> 
> I've restarted it with L/Hour and where is says Load Flow Cal Curve I have it Set for 400. Is that Correct?


Yes. Now set back to GPM if you want. Also hit the save disk icon on the MPS 400 to save your config.

edit - about the usb problem did you connect a usb pen drive or something and re-start the PC? cables got loose or something?


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Yes. Now set back to GPM if you want. Also hit the save disk icon on the MPS 400 to save your config.
> 
> edit - about the usb problem did you connect a usb pen drive or something and re-start the PC? cables got loose or something?


Well I have it on my desk at work. I am about to pop the top of the S3 open and try to push in the MPS400 side of the cable a little harder in. The side connected to the motherboard is solid. I am not getting a reading now after restarting the option of L/Hour to Gal/Hour.









The Cable seems to be not secure all of the way. Which would make sense.

TCO

I pushed the cable as far as I could safely. I keep saving the config and It won't load upon reboot of the program.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Well I have it on my desk at work. I am about to pop the top of the S3 open and try to push in the MPS400 side of the cable a little harder in. The side connected to the motherboard is solid. I am not getting a reading now after restarting the option of L/Hour to Gal/Hour.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The Cable seems to be not secure all of the way. Which would make sense.
> 
> TCO


Just be mindful that depending on the MB a simple external usb port occupied by a pen drive can trigger that behavior. I saw that happen in Grey Matter.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Just be mindful that depending on the MB a simple external usb port occupied by a pen drive can trigger that behavior. I saw that happen in Grey Matter.


No usb drives are hooked up. Just a keyboard and mouse.

TCO

Restarting the Rig won't do anything?


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> No usb drives are hooked up. Just a keyboard and mouse.
> 
> TCO
> 
> Restarting the Rig won't do anything?


It might do. I am just saying that it might happen a conflict between devices if the number of usb 2 ports is limited (which is usually the case in small MB). Have you re-started the rig anytime during this process? the usb red cross appeared out of the blue or did you re-started the PC?


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> It might do. I am just saying that it might happen a conflict between devices if the number of usb 2 ports is limited (which is usually the case in small MB). Have you re-started the rig anytime during this process? the usb red cross appeared out of the blue or did you re-started the PC?


Usb Red cross came out of the Blue. I will Restart Now and See if Re-initializing the motherboard does any good. This is to random right now you know?

TCO

You have to start the Suite in Admin to get results do you?


----------



## TheCautiousOne

I can't get a read... Wow! I've loaded the Data you gave me too. Set up a chart in the Data log for when It works. Trying to mess with the Load Flow Cal Curve to see if I am just not messing with the right settings.









TCO

Tried to restart program. I might have to change the Cable out. This seems to be the problem.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> I can't get a read... Wow! I've loaded the Data you gave me too. Set up a chart in the Data log for when It works. Trying to mess with the Load Flow Cal Curve to see if I am just not messing with the right settings.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> TCO
> 
> Tried to restart program. I might have to change the Cable out. This seems to be the problem.


Don't change the curve mate unless you are calibrating the MPS400 reading using another sensor. The red cross over USB is done I presume? So a re-start fixed it?


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Don't change the curve mate unless you are calibrating the MPS400 reading using another sensor. The red cross over USB is done I presume? So a re-start fixed it?


What do you do to change the Curve?

Do I just Load the XMl file and Leave it? I saw the USB prob again. That's why I am thinking I need to use my other USB cable from the Other flow sensor I own.

Waiting on your Response about This "Curve" you speak of.

TCO

Oh! And + Rep for putting up with my Ignorance.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> What do you do to change the Curve?
> 
> Do I just Load the XMl file and Leave it? I saw the USB prob again. That's why I am thinking I need to use my other USB cable from the Other flow sensor I own.
> 
> Waiting on your Response about This "Curve" you speak of.
> 
> TCO
> 
> Oh! And + Rep for putting up with my Ignorance.


the xml file is a complete calibration curve. So when you import one of those custom files the curve is already adjusted by it. You have others to play with in the link I sent you earlier but Jak c47 is the close to your loop settings. Import the file, save using the disk icon. quit aquasuite. turn off the pc. power on again and check if flow is there in the MPS 400. There is some sort of bug between Aquasuite and units of flow x mps400. Not sure is fixed in the latter versions that is why I asked you to change to LPH or LPM and then back to GPM. But jak file should take care of that too.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> the xml file is a complete calibration curve. So when you import one of those custom files the curve is already adjusted by it. You have others to play with in the link I sent you earlier but Jak c47 is the close to your loop settings. Import the file, save using the disk icon. quit aquasuite. turn off the pc. power on again and check if flow is there in the MPS 400. There is some sort of bug between Aquasuite and units of flow x mps400. Not sure is fixed in the latter versions that is why I asked you to change to LPH or LPM and then back to GPM. But jak file should take care of that too.


Yea I switched to liters and back to gal again. I am still getting no flow right now.

I will load xml file one more time and save and restart.

Upon opening Aquasuite after reboot I will touch noting except the MPS tab to see if there is a readout.

Will Report in a couple.

TCO

I have it open now, Just letting it sit for a sec, unless yall in here are saying the Flow Readout should be instinanious after opening Aquasuite. ?


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Nothing, No Result. 0 Gal/Hour

TCO

The XML. Isn't saving. Nothing saves when I exit Aquasuite

EDIT: Changing Flow Cal Cure to 400 Without Importing Data. A tube isn't selected. Loaded XML profile and left it for a sec. Trying to see how I got a reading earlier.











Set current flow as Zero to "Restart" the Flow, I guess?

Got It! Something I did has changed it to work











So I set the Flow Calibration to the 400 with 13/10mm tube, Took Auto Zero Cal Off. DID NOT PRESS IMPORT CAL FILE DATA.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Nothing, No Result. 0 Gal/Hour
> 
> TCO
> 
> The XML. Isn't saving. Nothing saves when I exit Aquasuite
> 
> EDIT: Changing Flow Cal Cure to 400 Without Importing Data. A tube isn't selected. Loaded XML profile and left it for a sec. Trying to see how I got a reading earlier.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Set current flow as Zero to "Restart" the Flow, I guess?
> 
> Got It! Something I did has changed it to work
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I set the Flow Calibration to the 400 with 13/10mm tube, Took Auto Zero Cal Off


hit the disk icon just by the "MPS" on the left side of the screen. That will save the configuration of the MPS400.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> hit the disk icon just by the "MPS" on the left side of the screen. That will save the configuration of the MPS400.


I really don't feel it does.. That's the Problem. I have saved a ton of times but when I re-enter Aqua.. Everything is Default.

TCO

I seem to be pretty steady at 34.2 gal/hour. Is that Good?

What is that, .05Gal/Min ?


----------



## Jflisk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> I really don't feel it does.. That's the Problem. I have saved a ton of times but when I re-enter Aqua.. Everything is Default.
> 
> TCO
> 
> I seem to be pretty steady at 34.2 gal/hour. Is that Good?
> 
> What is that, .05Gal/Min ?


Math looks right 0.56









do you have more pics of the build it looks good .


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> I really don't feel it does.. That's the Problem. I have saved a ton of times but when I re-enter Aqua.. Everything is Default.
> 
> TCO
> 
> I seem to be pretty steady at 34.2 gal/hour. Is that Good?
> 
> What is that, .05Gal/Min ?


0.57 GPM with pump at full speed? Which pump are you using? At what % is set?


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> 0.57 GPM with pump at full speed? Which pump are you using? At what % is set?


It's 100% Max. It could be because I have the 90 degree coming out of the pump, Straight up. It is an EKWB 3.2 DDC

TCO


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> It's 100% Max. It could be because I have the 90 degree coming out of the pump, Straight up. It is an EKWB 3.2 DDC
> 
> TCO


it seems kind of low flow to me with a simple loop as you have. 1 rad, 1 cpu block and 1 gpu block? If I am not mistaken from here:

http://www.overclock.net/t/1501978/ocn-community-water-cooling-test-thread/80#post_22632371

at 0.5 gpm you would have more than 6 psi to spare on the components. I doubt your blocks+rad use all that which means you would have spare pressure and therefore more flow. It might be the 90 degrees but I doubt that is the problem. Have you taken the blocks out? Have you open the cpu block by any chance?

*edit - ok I see you open the block to polish it. Have you paid attention while assembling on the orientation of the cpu block channels?*


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> it seems kind of low flow to me with a simple loop as you have. 1 rad, 1 cpu block and 1 gpu block? If I am not mistaken from here:
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1501978/ocn-community-water-cooling-test-thread/80#post_22632371
> 
> at 0.5 gpm you would have more than 6 psi to spare on the components. I doubt your blocks+rad use all that which means you would have spare pressure and therefore more flow. It might be the 90 degrees but I doubt that is the problem. Have you taken the blocks out? Have you open the cpu block by any chance?


I have opened it up, yes. Also the GPU block. Anything with the Original CSQ pattern has been opened and polished.

I can see some type of build up in the passage of the GPU fins.

TCO

Quote:


> edit - ok I see you open the block to polish it. Have you paid attention while assembling on the orientation of the cpu block channels?


Correct. I have.



From Internet.



The "In" Is coming from the Gpu, and The "Out" goes to the Res.

TCO

My Flow Chart after an Hour?


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> I have opened it up, yes. Also the GPU block. Anything with the Original CSQ pattern has been opened and polished.
> 
> I can see some type of build up in the passage of the GPU fins.
> 
> TCO
> Correct. I have.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> From Internet.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The "In" Is coming from the Gpu, and The "Out" goes to the Res.
> 
> TCO


ok about "in" and "out" ports but I was not talking about that. I was talking about the orientation of the channels in the block in regard to the jet plate and the in and out. If you switch that it would affect flow. microchannels should be like in the pic you quoted running horizontally to the in and out and perpendicular to the jetplate. Can tell from the pic of your block if is correct or not.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> ok about "in" and "out" ports but I was not talking about that. I was talking about the orientation of the channels in the block in regard to the jet plate and the in and out. If you switch that it would affect flow. microchannels should be like in the pic you quoted running horizontally to the in and out and perpendicular to the jetplate. Can tell from the pic of your block if is correct or not.


I have the Jet plate correct for 1150 socket.

I have the Channels facing the out as in picture I posted first.

TCO


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> I have the Jet plate correct for 1150 socket.
> 
> I have the Channels facing the out as in picture I posted first.
> 
> TCO


TCO not sure about the orientation mate. The only pic from your build log with the block re-assembled is this one:



It is not very informative but kind of look like the microchannels are running perpendicular to the in and out. Do you have any other pics or looking at the block with the red coolant on it can you see the orientation right now? Sorry to insist but just making sure is not this...

another one here:

http://www.overclock.net/t/1561122/build-log-southern-persuasion-caselabs-s3-acrylic-build-full-windowed/150#post_24120942

suggesting the channels are not properly oriented. But with the damn insert inside the evo block is kind of hard to be sure.


----------



## zerophase

Hey, if I set the preset pump percent to zero it should stop pumping right? I'm trying to reflow Indigo xtreme.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zerophase*
> 
> Hey, if I set the preset pump percent to zero it should stop pumping right? I'm trying to reflow Indigo xtreme.


If you have a PWM D5 that's Not the AC branded one, and you set min power to 0, and then the preset value to 0, it should stop . . . .

The AC branded PWM D5, from what's been brought up in various threads does not actually stop with everything set to zero.

You'd have to unplug the molex to stop it.


----------



## zerophase

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> If you have a PWM D5 that's Not the AC branded one, and you set min power to 0, and then the preset value to 0, it should stop . . . .
> 
> The AC branded PWM D5, from what's been brought up in various threads does not actually stop with everything set to zero.
> 
> You'd have to unplug the molex to stop it.


It's a DDC 3.2 pump. So just pull the molex? Couldn't that damage the pump?


----------



## iBruce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> If you have a PWM D5 that's Not the AC branded one, and you set min power to 0, and then the preset value to 0, it should stop . . . .
> 
> The AC branded PWM D5, from what's been brought up in various threads does not actually stop with everything set to zero.
> 
> You'd have to unplug the molex to stop it.


Picked up the AC D5 PWM today, is there a *known minimum rpm*, when %pwr is set to 0? Any other odd characteristics I should look forward to?

I set the AC D5 USB to 100% power once and this is what happened.


----------



## Jflisk

The machine is nice he has a lot of 90 bends they will reduce the flow. I use to worry about the flow too till I grabbed 2 x D5 and you know what with all the stuff in my system I still only got 0.84. As long as the machine stays cool and you are okay with the temps then its fine.


----------



## zerophase

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jflisk*
> 
> The machine is nice he has a lot of 90 bends they will reduce the flow. I use to worry about the flow too till I grabbed 2 x D5 and you know what with all the stuff in my system I still only got 0.84. As long as the machine stays cool and you are okay with the temps then its fine.


Even with a lot of 90s should the system still be able to hit 1 gpm of flow with 2 pumps?


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jflisk*
> 
> The machine is nice he has a lot of 90 bends they will reduce the flow. I use to worry about the flow too till I grabbed 2 x D5 and you know what with all the stuff in my system I still only got 0.84. As long as the machine stays cool and you are okay with the temps then its fine.


the flow is what it is and you right about the practical side of this. I have systems where the maximum flow is 0.7 GPM and I don't bother about it, is not like that. But the flow he had is not normal for a ddc 3.2 with such a simple loop. Restriction caused by 90 it will not cause such a low flow, you are wrong about that. A reversed orientation on the block channels (which seems at this point likely from the pictures I saw) will. So don't try to hide the sun with sieve, so to speak. After all the whole purpose of having a flow meter is to troubleshot you system and to have a long term safe reading of the health of your system.

@iBruce, this particular pump with 0% setting on the aquaero will run at full speed (~4830rpm). At 1% will run at 1430 rpm.


----------



## Jflisk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> the flow is what it is and you right about the practical side of this. I have systems where the maximum flow is 0.7 GPM and I don't bother about it, is not like that. But the flow he had is not normal for a ddc 3.2 with such a simple loop. Restriction caused by 90 it will not cause such a low flow, you are wrong about that. A reversed orientation on the block channels (which seems at this point likely from the pictures I saw) will. So don't try to hide the sun with sieve, so to speak. After all the whole purpose of having a flow meter is to troubleshot you system and to have a long term safe reading of the health of your system.
> 
> @iBruce, this particular pump with 0% setting on the aquaero will run at full speed (~4830rpm). At 1% will run at 1430 rpm.


I was not saying you are wrong if the orientation is off then its off per your picture. Theres no right or wrong to water cooling its what you feel comfortable with within reason.


----------



## thedoo

So I'm looking at getting an Aquaero 6 and putting it in one of the front bays of my Caselabs S8S. Do I still need to get the non-conforming device mount from Caselabs to get it to fit flush?


----------



## Jflisk

So whats the deal with switching max temp on a controller curve and the ugly blue box that covers it.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zerophase*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Jflisk*
> 
> The machine is nice he has a lot of 90 bends they will reduce the flow. I use to worry about the flow too till I grabbed 2 x D5 and you know what with all the stuff in my system I still only got 0.84. As long as the machine stays cool and you are okay with the temps then its fine.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Even with a lot of 90s should the system still be able to hit 1 gpm of flow with 2 pumps?
Click to expand...

martin ( martins liquid lab ) has said that 90s dont make that much of a difference,

too lazy to find the article atm sorry
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thedoo*
> 
> So I'm looking at getting an Aquaero 6 and putting it in one of the front bays of my Caselabs S8S. Do I still need to get the non-conforming device mount from Caselabs to get it to fit flush?


i would


----------



## DanBr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> 
> 
> The "In" Is coming from the Gpu, and The "Out" goes to the Res.
> 
> TCO


The "In" is the fitting on the right in this pic. Somewhat closer to the center of the block


----------



## InfoSeeker

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bigjdubb*
> 
> anyone know if there is a way I could e-mail someone with Auqua Computer the details of what I want to do with my system and get recommendations of which products I need to get the job done? I'm a little baffled by the amount of options there are available and what add on pieces for the Aquaero I would need.


[email protected]


----------



## DanBr

My MPS 400 config is also NOT SAVING after I choose load flow and tubing size.
I hit save and it shows a green check instantly but as soon as I close the Aquasuite and reopen it is back to defaults

I also tried importing the xml file posted and it did not save after close either.

Dan


----------



## NE0XY

I just got my Farbwerk and two RGB strips which I plan to connect to my Aquaero 6 Pro. But I guess I must have misunderstood the description because I don't know how to connect it to the Aquaero, all I got in the box was a usb connector and not the aquabus cable that I'm guessing I need instead?
Also, which port on the Aquaero am I supposed to connect it to? there are two aquabus ports, one that says "low" and one that says "high", or should I connect it to the port that says RGB?

Thank you


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NE0XY*
> 
> I just got my Farbwerk and two RGB strips which I plan to connect to my Aquaero 6 Pro. But I guess I must have misunderstood the description because I don't know how to connect it to the Aquaero, all I got in the box was a usb connector and not the aquabus cable that I'm guessing I need instead?
> Also, which port on the Aquaero am I supposed to connect it to? there are two aquabus ports, one that says "low" and one that says "high", or should I connect it to the port that says RGB?
> 
> Thank you


You'll use the USB to set it up, and if you want to control it directly from the A6, you'll need a 3 pin female to female cable to connect it to the Aquabus high port, and probably have to set its priority to aquabus before you remove the USB cable, if planning bus control exclusively, iirc.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> TCO not sure about the orientation mate. The only pic from your build log with the block re-assembled is this one:
> 
> 
> 
> It is not very informative but kind of look like the microchannels are running perpendicular to the in and out. Do you have any other pics or looking at the block with the red coolant on it can you see the orientation right now? Sorry to insist but just making sure is not this...
> 
> another one here:
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1561122/build-log-southern-persuasion-caselabs-s3-acrylic-build-full-windowed/150#post_24120942
> 
> suggesting the channels are not properly oriented. But with the damn insert inside the evo block is kind of hard to be sure.


Wow, on the second Pic that you Linked. That's how the Block is. That was finished after polish. I am glad you looked into it. You are saying that I would need to switch the insert around so that the curved part of the insert would be opposite?

TCO


----------



## NE0XY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> You'll use the USB to set it up, and if you want to control it directly from the A6, you'll need a 3 pin female to female cable to connect it to the Aquabus high port, and probably have to set its priority to aquabus before you remove the USB cable, if planning bus control exclusively, iirc.


Thank you, guess I'll just control it with the USB and software then.

Thanks =)


----------



## Jflisk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> martin ( martins liquid lab ) has said that 90s dont make that much of a difference,
> 
> too lazy to find the article atm sorry
> i would


Mega - found it
https://martinsliquidlab.wordpress.com/2011/01/30/fittings-and-elbow-impacts/

Somewhere in there it says 30 x 90 degree fittings to make a 1C difference so no real restriction. Martin is the best


----------



## Gabrielzm

Tco the channels are the ones mill to the copper/nickel base. Those channels should be running connecting the in and out port. In other words, they should be perpendicular to the jet plate. Just check how they are now since i can't be sure from the pics. On mobile now otherwise would fins a PIC for you.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Tco the channels are the ones mill to the copper/nickel base. Those channels should be running connecting the in and out port. In other words, they should be perpendicular to the jet plate. Just check how they are now since i can't be sure from the pics. On mobile now otherwise would fins a PIC for you.


Ill take home the Cpu tonight to work on over the weekend. Drain and redo the CPU block.

TCO


----------



## fast_fate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Ill take home the Cpu tonight to work on over the weekend. Drain and redo the CPU block.
> 
> TCO


While it's drained......got a little job for ya










Spoiler: I saw an overhead shot in you build log.







Looks like the short length of acrylic before the GPU is a tad too long ??
which is pushing the MPS run out of alignment.

Build lookin' great btw


----------



## NE0XY

Either something is wrong or I'm doing something wrong, but I can't change the colour of the RGB leds with the Farbwerk+Aquacomputer RGB strips.

I can only change from dark/deep blue and lighter blue, you know what I mean.
I can also increase/decrease the brightness but I can't get any other colours

edit: I can change to more colours but it's definitely not all of them and not accurate at all


----------



## Jflisk

I think this one might be @shoggy question. The flow sensor user defined any way to get the decimal point to move over I am reading 3200.00 LPH should be 320.00 LPH .I have the lovely Koolance flow sensor and using the FLOW sensor adapter. Also I have seen that the flow sensor can be installed minus the adaptor. If so how does that work tried it last night and didn't have any flow. Maybe reversed the leads. The koolance only has 2 leads and I tried it in a 3 pin fan header using the outer pins. 1 +3 ground and signal I believe. If not I can use the adapter but just need to figure out how to move the decimal point. Thanks in advance

TheCatiousOne - nice build now that I have seen more of it.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *InfoSeeker*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *bigjdubb*
> 
> anyone know if there is a way I could e-mail someone with Auqua Computer the details of what I want to do with my system and get recommendations of which products I need to get the job done? I'm a little baffled by the amount of options there are available and what add on pieces for the Aquaero I would need.
> 
> 
> 
> [email protected]
Click to expand...

You can ask here as Well
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NE0XY*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> You'll use the USB to set it up, and if you want to control it directly from the A6, you'll need a 3 pin female to female cable to connect it to the Aquabus high port, and probably have to set its priority to aquabus before you remove the USB cable, if planning bus control exclusively, iirc.
> 
> 
> 
> Thank you, guess I'll just control it with the USB and software then.
> 
> Thanks =)
Click to expand...

The aq does come with a3 pin cable as well if you don't want to make or buy one

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jflisk*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> martin ( martins liquid lab ) has said that 90s dont make that much of a difference,
> 
> too lazy to find the article atm sorry
> i would
> 
> 
> 
> Mega - found it
> https://martinsliquidlab.wordpress.com/2011/01/30/fittings-and-elbow-impacts/
> 
> Somewhere in there it says 30 x 90 degree fittings to make a 1C difference so no real restriction. Martin is the best
Click to expand...

Thanks sorry was up late with the baby and couldn't deal with finding it. Was going to look now but seems I don't have to


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fast_fate*
> 
> While it's drained......got a little job for ya
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: I saw an overhead shot in you build log.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Looks like the short length of acrylic before the *GPU is a tad too long* ??
> which is pushing the MPS run out of alignment.
> 
> Build lookin' great btw


Thanks a ton Mate. That's a good Point too! I could shorten it a hair.

TCO


----------



## jaganram

Just got mine today aquaero 6


----------



## DanBr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> TCO not sure about the orientation mate. The only pic from your build log with the block re-assembled is this one:
> 
> 
> 
> It is not very informative but kind of look like the microchannels are running perpendicular to the in and out. Do you have any other pics or looking at the block with the red coolant on it can you see the orientation right now? Sorry to insist but just making sure is not this...
> 
> another one here:
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1561122/build-log-southern-persuasion-caselabs-s3-acrylic-build-full-windowed/150#post_24120942
> 
> suggesting the channels are not properly oriented. But with the damn insert inside the evo block is kind of hard to be sure.


I believe the port you circled is the outflow on that block
Dan


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DanBr*
> 
> I believe the port you circled is the outflow on that block
> Dan


Dan, you are missing the point mate. We are talking about the channels within the block and not how the flow is setup in regard to the in and out ports,which is correct in tco loop.


----------



## iBruce

This thread only drowns everyone, especially first users.

No one can get a simple answer.

Too many high level sophisticates.


----------



## Jflisk

IBruce the channels inside a waterblock have a direction or orientation



As you can see in the picture above. The metal plate is the jet plate. It has to go back in the right orientation or the flow is effected. This was the inside of my Raystorm before I cleaned it. Thanks


----------



## iBruce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jflisk*
> 
> IBruce the channels inside a waterblock have a direction or orientation
> 
> 
> 
> As you can see in the picture above. The metal plate is the jet plate. It has to go back in the right orientation or the flow is effected. This was the inside of my Raystorm before I cleaned it. Thanks


They do? What the F?









http://s296.photobucket.com/user/iBruceEVGA/media/IMG_3232_zps68qpamh8.png.html


----------



## iBruce

Congratulations jaganram on your new Aquaero 6 Wooooot, although you may need a reserve oxygen supply or at least a snorkel in this thread.









http://s296.photobucket.com/user/iBruceEVGA/media/IMG_3705_zpsn8wd4cko.jpg.html


----------



## zerophase

Trying to figure out if I need to set up a fan curve. Running my rad fans at 600 rpms, and case fans at 900 keeps the a cpu running at 4.6 at 66 c under full load. Maybe, pushing up to 4.7, and adding in sli graphics cards would need it.


----------



## iBruce

geggeg is always watching us all, he's the overseer.


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iBruce*
> 
> geggeg is always watching us all, he's the overseer.


LOL


----------



## iBruce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> LOL


No man, it's not that simple, if OCN isn't paying you then I wonder your motives, it's close to becoming the mayor of crazytown.


----------



## Jflisk

geggeg is close to becoming the admin of crazy town.


----------



## iBruce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jflisk*
> 
> geggeg is close to becoming the admin of crazy town.


certifiable.

I cannot spend 2minutes on OCN without geggeg BEING THERE, right there, he's like an online stalker, it doesn't matter what thread or what topic, he is in EVERYONE of them.

He must spend 20hrs every day at OCN from sun up to sun down and that qualifies as crazytown.

.


----------



## DanBr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Dan, you are missing the point mate. We are talking about the channels within the block and not how the flow is setup in regard to the in and out ports,which is correct in tco loop.


I understand that I just thought from his other thread that he might have had the flow backwards and that would cause him problems.


----------



## jlakai

Does anyone know if it is possible to use non AC D5 PWM, pumps with the two pin pwm headers on AQ6XT ? or are these only for DDC PWM pumps ? or even explain what they are for specifically.


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iBruce*
> 
> certifiable.
> 
> I cannot spend 2minutes on OCN without geggeg BEING THERE, right there, he's like an online stalker, it doesn't matter what thread or what topic, he is in EVERYONE of them.
> 
> He must spend 20hrs every day at OCN from sun up to sun down and that qualifies as crazytown.
> 
> .


Thankfully no, and this is more to do with OCN displaying the list of users in a thread for far longer than the person remains there.


----------



## Anateus

I have two things that require my MOBO USB header, and there is only one of those.
Those things are USB 3.0 hub and Aquaero 6. Can I use some kind of splitter for that? Will it cause any problems? Like, when I connect something to front USB ports, the aquaero will stop controlling fans or smth.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jlakai*
> 
> Does anyone know if it is possible to use non AC D5 PWM, pumps with the two pin pwm headers on AQ6XT ? or are these only for DDC PWM pumps ? or even explain what they are for specifically.


DO NOT connect any pumps to the 2 pin PWM headers . . . .

The PWM spec for fans and pumps is max of 5.25V.

Those 2 pin headers are 12V and were designed for controlling LEDs.

The 12V could damage a pump's or fan's circuitry.

D.


----------



## pcrrocket

I'm thinking of buying the A6 XT but not sure if it will handle my super crazy Watercooling setup

I have two loops setup with 2 X EK-XTOP Dual DDC 3.2 PWM (incl. 2x pump) so (TOTAL 4 pumps DDC 3.2 PWM)

with 19 Corsair AF120's Quite Edition 1,500 rpm .4 A

and 1 Corsair AF140 Quite Edition 1,200 rpm .23A

Any input would be appreciated.


----------



## Ironsmack

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pcrrocket*
> 
> I'm thinking of buying the A6 XT but not sure if it will handle my super crazy Watercooling setup
> 
> I have two loops setup with 2 X EK-XTOP Dual DDC 3.2 PWM (incl. 2x pump) so (TOTAL 4 pumps DDC 3.2 PWM)
> 
> with 19 Corsair AF120's Quite Edition 1,500 rpm .4 A
> 
> and 1 Corsair AF140 Quite Edition 1,200 rpm .23A
> 
> Any input would be appreciated.


Yup.

I have currently running 16 AP-15's in my rig on my 5LT (w/WB) without any problems.

The AQ6 can handle those fans + pump without a sweat.

Just make sure you have quality fan extensions to support your fans.

The SP fans are 3 or 4 pin?


----------



## pcrrocket

they are 3 pin

Still confused how all will be connected.

As the A6 has only 4 fan connector controllers that can handle 2.5 A per each...... so in my case I can use 6 fans only per channel (not even sure I can since seeing on the first page of this forum that using more than 5 or 6 Corsair fan doesn't work on A6)

As regards to my 4 pump system for two loops, lets say I can combine 2 pumps in to one connector (2 X EK-XTOP Dual DDC 3.2 PWM (incl. 2x pump) so (TOTAL 4 pumps DDC 3.2 PWM)............... But that still leaves me with needed 2 plug in ports on A6 somehow or do I just use 2 out of 4 FAN controllers in witch case will only leave me 2 left ( that means only 12 Fan I can have with 2 left over FAN port)


----------



## jvillaveces

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NE0XY*
> 
> Either something is wrong or I'm doing something wrong, but I can't change the colour of the RGB leds with the Farbwerk+Aquacomputer RGB strips.
> 
> I can only change from dark/deep blue and lighter blue, you know what I mean.
> I can also increase/decrease the brightness but I can't get any other colours
> 
> edit: I can change to more colours but it's definitely not all of them and not accurate at all


When I first installed my Farbwerk I had similar problems. They came from a bad connection between the RGB strip and the adapter cable, and they were fixed by making sure the strip was properly seated in the connector. I wish Aquacomputer used the standard 4-pin RGB connectors instead of those stupid compression housings!


----------



## jlakai

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> DO NOT connect any pumps to the 2 pin PWM headers . . . .
> 
> The PWM spec for fans and pumps is max of 5.25V.
> 
> Those 2 pin headers are 12V and were designed for controlling LEDs.
> 
> The 12V could damage a pump's or fan's circuitry.
> 
> D.


Thanks, good looking out. Why would they label the heads PWM if it was not to be used as such.


----------



## supermiguel

Does the 6 have an LED controller in it?


----------



## jaganram

Quick question what all things apart from Aquaero 6 i need to connect around 14 fans to it. 10 EK Vardar fan's + 4 Corsair 120 Fans. I need any extension cables ? Totally new to this


----------



## Anateus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anateus*
> 
> I have two things that require my MOBO USB header, and there is only one of those.
> Those things are USB 3.0 hub and Aquaero 6. Can I use some kind of splitter for that? Will it cause any problems? Like, when I connect something to front USB ports, the aquaero will stop controlling fans or smth.


Bumping my previous question

Also, could anyone tell me what kind of connector should I choose here to connect it to Aquaero 6?
http://mayhems.co.uk/store/darkside-5.5-14cm-darkside-connect-dimmable-rigid-led-strip-white.html


----------



## Mega Man

assuming it uses 12v you can use the 2pin pwm outputs/connectors
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *supermiguel*
> 
> Does the 6 have an LED controller in it?


yes but probably not the one you want
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jaganram*
> 
> Quick question what all things apart from Aquaero 6 i need to connect around 14 fans to it. 10 EK Vardar fan's + 4 Corsair 120 Fans. I need any extension cables ? Totally new to this


umm... you will need a expansion cable


----------



## ozzy1925

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anateus*
> 
> Bumping my previous question
> 
> Also, could anyone tell me what kind of connector should I choose here to connect it to Aquaero 6?
> http://mayhems.co.uk/store/darkside-5.5-14cm-darkside-connect-dimmable-rigid-led-strip-white.html


get type 1


----------



## Anateus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ozzy1925*
> 
> get type 1


What then? Just connect it to that 4pin RGB header? Can I connect two RGB stripes using Y splitter to that?


----------



## jaganram

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> assuming it uses 12v you can use the 2pin pwm outputs/connectors
> yes but probably not the one you want
> umm... you will need a expansion cable


What type of expansion cable can you able to point me towards it? ty


----------



## deeph

I'm using the Fill level item in Overview page, but noticed that at 73% the water in reservoir pic show only (maybe) half of the reservoir. Any how to calibrate the water in the reservoir pic itself?


----------



## ozzy1925

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anateus*
> 
> What then? Just connect it to that 4pin RGB header? Can I connect two RGB stripes using Y splitter to that?


.
if u get the 3pin type you can connect them to led header but you cant dimm so better connect them to any free fan header and voltage control them as i did same: 2 of those to fan header with y cable


----------



## 47 Knucklehead

I have a couple of questions, maybe someone can answer.

1) Is there a way to put the RGB slider on the main page (like the aquaero Demo) for a Farbwerk? I for the life of me can't figure out how. I'd really like to have it under my 4 meters for the fans. The Farbwerks is via USB and I can control it, but I just have to hit the side tab and do it that way.

2) For Aquasuite 2015 - 6, I keep losing my descriptions. I set the title for each Fan, Flow meter, Temperature Sensor, etc. and about every 3rd or 4th time I start up Aquasuite, it loses the title. Everything works, just no description.


----------



## jvillaveces

Last night I upgraded to Windows 10. Apparently everything went well, but I'm still looking about in my system for any "silent" problems.

When I went into Aquasuite after a few hours of the system unattended on BOINC, one of my usual gadgets, which displays data about my second GPU, had all the data replaced by warnings (exclamation marks inside triangles). I thought it had somehow got corrupted, and refreshed the data source. The information came back up again, but made no sense: it said the GPU temperature was 2.5C, the core load was 2.5%, and the respective mins and max's were also 2.5. My software sensors are linked to HWinfo64, so I opened its window next to the corresponding readings in Aquasuite (see picture below). They don't match! Aquasuite is populating the fields it's supposed to read from HWinfo with other information, and not even refreshing it; it's been over an hour, and the data for that CPU still reads 2.5 for every unit.

[I

I still need to do further testing to see if there are other discrepancies between HWinfo sensor data as reported by HWinfo64 and the same data as reported by Aquasuite. Both applications are easy enough to uninstall-reinstall that I'll go ahead and do that anyway, maybe something did get corrupted in the OS migration and that will fix it. OTOH, it is possible that that two just don't play nice together in Win10, in which case others in the community need to be aware.

EDIT: after looking at my original picture it was pretty hard to read, so I replaced it with a cropped version, where the numbers can be read better.


----------



## tblake

Are there any considerations for extending an Aquabus cable? Can I just use a standard 4 pin fan extension cable? The 70 cm Aquabus cable is too short to reach from my pump to my Aquaero 6. Thanks!


----------



## InfoSeeker

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *supermiguel*
> 
> Does the 6 have an LED controller in it?


From the aquaero manual:
Quote:


> 4.11. Connector „RGB LED"
> 
> Connector for up to three LEDs or one two-color or RGB illumination module
> (not included in delivery). High brightness LEDs (3-4 V, 20 mA) may be con-
> nected without series resistor, a series resistor is built into the aquaero.
> 
> Pin assignment:
> Pin 1: VCC LED 1
> Pin 2: VCC LED 2
> Pin 3: GND
> Pin 4: VCC LED 3


If you want to run LED lighting strips you need the farbwerk. (farbwerk manual)


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ozzy1925*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Anateus*
> 
> What then? Just connect it to that 4pin RGB header? Can I connect two RGB stripes using Y splitter to that?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> if u get the 3pin type you can connect them to led header but you cant dimm so better connect them to any free fan header and voltage control them as i did same: 2 of those to fan header with y cable
Click to expand...

>.> no you cant and afaik that output is only rated for 1 led
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jaganram*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> assuming it uses 12v you can use the 2pin pwm outputs/connectors
> yes but probably not the one you want
> umm... you will need a expansion cable
> 
> 
> 
> What type of expansion cable can you able to point me towards it? ty
Click to expand...

depends on the type of fan but you need a "y" cable if you are going to plug in that many fans into 4 connectors
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tblake*
> 
> Are there any considerations for extending an Aquabus cable? Can I just use a standard 4 pin fan extension cable? The 70 cm Aquabus cable is too short to reach from my pump to my Aquaero 6. Thanks!


yes you can


----------



## ozzy1925

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> >.> no you cant and afaik that output is only rated for 1 led


well, it did work for me


----------



## Anateus

Think I'll just get farbwerk for LEDs.
Anyone here using Aquaero LED stripes? I thought about using them (way cheaper than darkside LEDs). Is there an option for nice white colour? I didnt see it in their presentation







I suppose there should be, after all they are RGB and white is mix of all colours...
And can they be cut? I dont need anything longer than 30cm.


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anateus*
> 
> Think I'll just get farbwerk for LEDs.
> Anyone here using Aquaero LED stripes? I thought about using them (way cheaper than darkside LEDs). Is there an option for nice white colour? I didnt see it in their presentation
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I suppose there should be, after all they are RGB and white is mix of all colours...
> And can they be cut? I dont need anything longer than 30cm.


I thinck you can cut them every 3 leds


----------



## DanBr

Can I or should I set my fan speed prior to booting system for first time?
I guess that when I do boot up prior to loading windows and any software the fans will spin at 100%

Can I connect the molex to the aquaero and power up the fans with an extra PSU and set the fans from the front panel?

Is that safe to do, and is it easy?
Dan


----------



## fast_fate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DanBr*
> 
> Can I or should I set my fan speed prior to booting system for first time?
> I guess that when I do boot up prior to loading windows and any software the fans will spin at 100%
> 
> Can I connect the molex to the aquaero and power up the fans with an extra PSU and set the fans from the front panel?
> 
> Is that safe to do, and is it easy?
> Dan


Yes you can power the Aquaero via a secondary PSU and is perfectly safe to do so.
It may pay to disconnect the USB cable while doing so, to prevent the 5 Volt from secondary PSU going back through to the motherboard - and anything else plugged into the mobo's USB headers.
Put cables (power and USB) back "as normal" before booting and save your AquaSuite settings to file before updating Aquasuite software.
Once update is complete you can load your saved settings and not have to start from scratch again (hopefully)


----------



## jaganram

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> >.> no you cant and afaik that output is only rated for 1 led
> depends on the type of fan but you need a "y" cable if you are going to plug in that many fans into 4 connectors
> yes you can


Going to use around 10-12 EK Vardar 120mm fans + 4 Corsair Air series 120mm fans thats it


----------



## DanBr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fast_fate*
> 
> Yes you can power the Aquaero via a secondary PSU and is perfectly safe to do so.
> It may pay to disconnect the USB cable while doing so, to prevent the 5 Volt from secondary PSU going back through to the motherboard - and anything else plugged into the mobo's USB headers.
> Put cables (power and USB) back "as normal" before booting and save your AquaSuite settings to file before updating Aquasuite software.
> Once update is complete you can load your saved settings and not have to start from scratch again (hopefully)


I would not be able to save the settings to a file as only would have the aquaero6 and the fans hooked up to a stand alone powersupply not to a computer.
Would the fan speed/settings be saved in the aquaero?


----------



## jaganram

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> assuming it uses 12v you can use the 2pin pwm outputs/connectors
> yes but probably not the one you want
> umm... you will need a expansion cable


Something like this will work ?

Phobya 3-Pin x 6 Fan Cable Splitter


----------



## InfoSeeker

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anateus*
> 
> Think I'll just get farbwerk for LEDs.
> Anyone here using Aquaero LED stripes? I thought about using them (way cheaper than darkside LEDs). Is there an option for nice white colour? I didnt see it in their presentation
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I suppose there should be, after all they are RGB and white is mix of all colours...
> And can they be cut? I dont need anything longer than 30cm.


Aquacomputer RGB LED strips.

Snipped from the description of one of the strips:
Quote:


> Aqua Computer RGB LED Strip with 60 LEDs per meter, color-coordinated to the farbwerk controller. The strip can be devided every 5 cm / every 3 LEDs.
> To control the color of the strips you need to connect them to a farbwerk controller.


And they are available in various lengths: 25, 50, 100 & 500 cm.

Edit: Farbwerk demo.


----------



## Jflisk

Bump - any ideas greatly appreciated

I think this one might be @shoggy question. The flow sensor user defined any way to get the decimal point to move over I am reading 3200.00 LPH should be 320.00 LPH .I have the lovely Koolance flow sensor and using the FLOW sensor adapter. Also I have seen that the flow sensor can be installed minus the adaptor. If so how does that work tried it last night and didn't have any flow. Maybe reversed the leads. The koolance only has 2 leads and I tried it in a 3 pin fan header using the outer pins. 1 +3 ground and signal I believe. If not I can use the adapter but just need to figure out how to move the decimal point. Thanks in advance


----------



## Anateus

Could anyone tell me if Im missing anything? Buying all of this very soon









Aquaero 6 XT
Farbwerk USB, aquabus version
Aqua Computer LED RGB, black, 25cm
Aquacomputer Connector for RGB LED strips, black, 70 cm
Aqua Computer aquabus cable 4-pin


----------



## fast_fate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DanBr*
> 
> I would not be able to save the settings to a file as only would have the aquaero6 and the fans hooked up to a stand alone powersupply not to a computer.
> Would the fan speed/settings be saved in the aquaero?


Your settings will be saved on the Aquaero, it operates independently








Only for software (Aquasuite) update that need to save to file - and from recent posts, sounds like a few people having issues with the saved files after the update.


----------



## Ironsmack

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anateus*
> 
> Could anyone tell me if Im missing anything? Buying all of this very soon
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Aquaero 6 XT
> Farbwerk USB, aquabus version
> Aqua Computer LED RGB, black, 25cm
> Aquacomputer Connector for RGB LED strips, black, 70 cm
> Aqua Computer aquabus cable 4-pin


The Aquabus cables already comes with the AQ6. Unless this is an extra one?

You already have your fan extensions?


----------



## Anateus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ironsmack*
> 
> The Aquabus cables already comes with the AQ6. Unless this is an extra one?
> 
> You already have your fan extensions?


I wanted to connect farbwerk to aq6 with it, guess I'll skip it if its already bundled.
As for the fans, I will use EK splitter or something similar.


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jflisk*
> 
> Bump - any ideas greatly appreciated
> 
> I think this one might be @shoggy question. The flow sensor user defined any way to get the decimal point to move over I am reading 3200.00 LPH should be 320.00 LPH .I have the lovely Koolance flow sensor and using the FLOW sensor adapter. Also I have seen that the flow sensor can be installed minus the adaptor. If so how does that work tried it last night and didn't have any flow. Maybe reversed the leads. The koolance only has 2 leads and I tried it in a 3 pin fan header using the outer pins. 1 +3 ground and signal I believe. If not I can use the adapter but just need to figure out how to move the decimal point. Thanks in advance


Google is your friend
http://forum.aquacomputer.de/weitere-foren/english-forum/p1292846-aquaero-with-2-wire-flow-meter/?highlight=koolance


----------



## Jflisk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> Google is your friend
> http://forum.aquacomputer.de/weitere-foren/english-forum/p1292846-aquaero-with-2-wire-flow-meter/?highlight=koolance


That's the exact link I was looking at but they are referencing a 3 pin connection when the flow sensor itself has a 2 pin lead that I can turn into a 3 pin lead across pin 1+3 Basically flow and gnd . But I tried it and got no reading . The references to the wiring links are gone also. So I am trying to figure out the ground and flow. Or if they can be reversed if so how do I figure out what one is flow or ground there both black no stripping. Unless I just mess with it and flip them. I have the flow sensor adapter also that does read but It should read 320.00 LPH not 3200.00LPH ( wish it was 3200 lph )Thanks


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jflisk*
> 
> That's the exact link I was looking at but they are referencing a 3 pin connection when the flow sensor itself has a 2 pin lead that I can turn into a 3 pin lead across pin 1+3 Basically flow and gnd . But I tried it and got no reading . The references to the wiring links are gone also. So I am trying to figure out the ground and flow. Or if they can be reversed if so how do I figure out what one is flow or ground there both black no stripping. Unless I just mess with it and flip them. I have the flow sensor adapter also that does read but It should read 320.00 LPH not 3200.00LPH ( wish it was 3200 lph )Thanks


Which model flow sensor is it?


----------



## Jflisk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> Which model flow sensor is it?


This one
http://koolance.com/ins-fm17n-coolant-flow-meter

Frequency adapter
http://koolance.com/adt-fm03-flow-meter-frequency-adapter


----------



## Anateus

Has anyone connected both fans and pump into PWM header on Aquaero 5?
Both fans and pump are powered directly from PSU, so AQ5 would only need to send PWM signal (% would be similar for pump/fans).


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jflisk*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> Which model flow sensor is it?
> 
> 
> 
> This one
> http://koolance.com/ins-fm17n-coolant-flow-meter
> 
> Frequency adapter
> http://koolance.com/adt-fm03-flow-meter-frequency-adapter
Click to expand...

When you use a Koolance flow meter with the frequency adapter, you have to plug the frequency adapter output into a fan channel. That channel will display flow in milliliters per minute, which for 1GPM is about 3785.

I don't know that there is a way to get the Aquaero to read correctly from a non AC flow device when plugged up as a flow meter,

The Koolance system is designed to convert flow to a pulse frequency range that mimics a fan rpm range, so that it will read in ml/min on any common fan controller display device, or on a mobo fan header.

Darlene


----------



## Jflisk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> When you use a Koolance flow meter with the frequency adapter, you have to plug the frequency adapter output into a fan channel. That channel will display flow in milliliters per minute, which for 1GPM is about 3785.
> 
> I don't know that there is a way to get the Aquaero to read correctly from a non AC flow device when plugged up as a flow meter,
> 
> The Koolance system is designed to convert flow to a pulse frequency range that mimics a fan rpm range, so that it will read in ml/min on any common fan controller display device, or on a mobo fan header.
> 
> Darlene


Darlene - I should be getting 5.3 liters per minute(1.4 GPM rough conversion) mine is reading 53.5 - 320.00 LPH reading as 3200.00 LPH. I was hoping even if I have to do a regedit or config edit I could get the readings right.

Thanks
-JD


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jflisk*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> When you use a Koolance flow meter with the frequency adapter, you have to plug the frequency adapter output into a fan channel. That channel will display flow in milliliters per minute, which for 1GPM is about 3785.
> 
> I don't know that there is a way to get the Aquaero to read correctly from a non AC flow device when plugged up as a flow meter,
> 
> The Koolance system is designed to convert flow to a pulse frequency range that mimics a fan rpm range, so that it will read in ml/min on any common fan controller display device, or on a mobo fan header.
> 
> Darlene
> 
> 
> 
> Darlene - I should be getting 5.3 liters per minute(1.4 GPM rough conversion) mine is reading 53.5 - 320.00 LPH reading as 3200.00 LPH. I was hoping even if I have to do a regedit or config edit I could get the readings right.
> 
> Thanks
> -JD
Click to expand...

Sounds like you'd need to make a decade divider, (divide by ten) circuit on the output of the frequency adapter.

Use a simple CD4017 chip would be quick and easy.


----------



## Ironsmack

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anateus*
> 
> Has anyone connected both fans and pump into PWM header on Aquaero 5?
> Both fans and pump are powered directly from PSU, so AQ5 would only need to send PWM signal (% would be similar for pump/fans).


The problem with doing that is the RPM is quite different on the pump and fans.

If i were you - i'd install the fans on the PWM splitter connected to the AQ5/6.

And have your pump controlled by the CPU header if you only have one PWM connections.

Even then - that's how my set up is controlled. I'll let AI suite control the pump and the AQ 5 control all the fans/LED.


----------



## jvillaveces

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anateus*
> 
> Think I'll just get farbwerk for LEDs.
> Anyone here using Aquaero LED stripes? I thought about using them (way cheaper than darkside LEDs). Is there an option for nice white colour? I didnt see it in their presentation
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I suppose there should be, after all they are RGB and white is mix of all colours...
> And can they be cut? I dont need anything longer than 30cm.


I'm using Aquacomputer LED strips. They give a very nice white, unlike others I have tried in the past.
On the downside, they come with the same near-useless 3M double-sided tape as most other strips in the market, so they WILL come unstuck, you will need to get good quality tape to fix them.
Also, instead of coming with 4-pin RGB connectors, they come with a finicky compression connector- They can be cut every third LED.
There's an IP65 (regular) and an IP67 (waterproof) variety. I don't know if the connecting cable uis specialized to each variety, but given that the IP67 are too thick to fit in a regular (non-AQ) connector, I suspect they need to match. I think PPCS offers the option of tailing them with normal 4-pin connectors if you want.


----------



## jvillaveces

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anateus*
> 
> I wanted to connect farbwerk to aq6 with it, guess I'll skip it if its already bundled.
> As for the fans, I will use EK splitter or something similar.


The cables that came with my AQ6 and FW were 3-pin female to female. They WON'T establish an Aquabus connection between the two devices. You need a 4-pin f2f cable for this.


----------



## Jflisk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Sounds like you'd need to make a decade divider, (divide by ten) circuit on the output of the frequency adapter.
> 
> Use a simple CD4017 chip would be quick and easy.


Darlene - what would the circuit look like and what do I need. I can get everything at mouser.

Thanks
-JD


----------



## TheCautiousOne

@Gabrielzm Thanks for Sticking there with me on that one! Doubled the Flow just by your recommendation of the Fins of the Evo Block. This thing is Chugging!!!



85 Gal/Hour or 1.5Gal/Min

TCO


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> @gabrielzm Thanks for Sticking there with me on that one! Doubled the Flow just by your recommendation of the Fins of the Evo Block. This thing is Chugging!!!
> 
> 
> 
> 85 Gal/Hour or 1.5Gal/Min
> 
> TCO


Glad was this mate. 1.44 GPM looks like the expected flow for you loop. Happy for you


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Glad was this mate. 1.44 GPM looks like the expected flow for you loop. Happy for you


+ Rep Gabe Again. So Helpfull Broski!!

Pictures of the Fins


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> + Rep Gabe Again. So Helpfull Broski!!
> 
> Pictures of the Fins


Nice! That is the correct orientation. I was not certain from the pics you have the block was not properly oriented but it did make sense. I am really glad was that simple. Try to flip and move the case a bit to see if the aurora particles get back on the fluid.


----------



## NE0XY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jvillaveces*
> 
> When I first installed my Farbwerk I had similar problems. They came from a bad connection between the RGB strip and the adapter cable, and they were fixed by making sure the strip was properly seated in the connector. I wish Aquacomputer used the standard 4-pin RGB connectors instead of those stupid compression housings!


I also noticed that one of the cables had the internal cables (you know what I mean) in the wrong order. And it looks like the Farbwerk unit is damagad on the back aswell.
Ye the connectors are pretty ****


----------



## Shoggy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jvillaveces*
> 
> The cables that came with my AQ6 and FW were 3-pin female to female. They WON'T establish an Aquabus connection between the two devices. You need a 4-pin f2f cable for this.


It would work. Since the farbwerk is powered directly by the PSU it requires no 4-pin connection nor could it run alone from this connection.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Nice! That is the correct orientation. I was not certain from the pics you have the block was not properly oriented but it did make sense. I am really glad was that simple. Try to flip and move the case a bit to see if the aurora particles get back on the fluid.


There was No Need to flip anything, Lol, Once the Pump was able to run at full speed everything started moving again, like a train baby!

TCO


----------



## Anateus

EDIT: Wrong thread


----------



## 7akata

Had a bad little run with my Aquaero 6XT. It was still powering the fans but the LCD screen stopped working. Paid 30 USD to mail it to Germany, waited three weeks, and got some bad news. They went ahead and repaired the unit, without asking if I wanted to go through with it, and charged me an additional 107USD. USB overvolt was the cause of the screen failure apparently. Well, now i'm out my money and couldn't even ask them to return it unfixed. Might as well buy a brand new one instead of shelling over 140 total USD'd. /sadface

The plus side is they were extremely prompt with all of my questions and concerns, right up until they fixed it without asking if I wanted to pay









Edit: Just got a reply, and it was a language barrier issue, and they haven't actually done the 110USD repair, thank goodness! Once again superb customer service interaction, just not the result I was looking for.


----------



## DanBr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *7akata*
> 
> Had a bad little run with my Aquaero 6XT. It was still powering the fans but the LCD screen stopped working. Paid 30 USD to mail it to Germany, waited three weeks, and got some bad news. They went ahead and repaired the unit, without asking if I wanted to go through with it, and charged me an additional 107USD. USB overvolt was the cause of the screen failure apparently. Well, now i'm out my money and couldn't even ask them to return it unfixed. Might as well buy a brand new one instead of shelling over 140 total USD'd. /sadface
> 
> The plus side is they were extremely prompt with all of my questions and concerns, right up until they fixed it without asking if I wanted to pay
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Edit: Just got a reply, and it was a language barrier issue, and they haven't actually done the 110USD repair, thank goodness! Once again superb customer service interaction, just not the result I was looking for.


what do you think caused the USB overvolt?
Dan


----------



## 7akata

Not a clue, it was working one day and not the next when I turned the computer on. It wasn't completely toast, because it still powered the fans. I asked for someone to explain to me how that would happen in my last email, but haven't gotten a reply. I'm turning down the offer to repair though, as I might as well buy a new one for that price.

Edit: FWIW the unit is almost exactly 12 months old.


----------



## jvillaveces

I can't think of many stupider things than to argue with Shoggy about Aquacomputer stuff, but here I go: My AQ6 Pro refused to acknowledge the presence of any MPS devices or the FW until I changed all the Aquabus connections to 4-pin. Until then, I could see them and control then in Aquasuite as long as I maintained the USB connections, but if I went into the "aquaero" tab to check for connected aquabus devices it remained blank. Each device had its own tab in Aquasuite (they still do), and their sensors were not available to the Aquaero.
A few months ago, when I was setting everything up, I asked in this thread whether I could use the 3-pin cables that came bundled with my devices, or needed to get extra 4-pins. Several people informed me I could use the 3-pin. Well, I couldn't. It may well be user error (in my case it always seems to be), but the only way I could get Aquabus properly set up was to use 4-pin cables for all the device-to-device connections. As soon as I did, everything worked as expected.


----------



## Archea47

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ironsmack*
> 
> The Aquabus cables already comes with the AQ6. Unless this is an extra one?
> 
> You already have your fan extensions?


My AQ6 only came with 3-pin Aquabus - looks like he's ordering the 4-pin
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jvillaveces*
> 
> I can't think of many stupider things than to argue with Shoggy about Aquacomputer stuff, but here I go: My AQ6 Pro refused to acknowledge the presence of any MPS devices or the FW until I changed all the Aquabus connections to 4-pin. Until then, I could see them and control then in Aquasuite as long as I maintained the USB connections, but if I went into the "aquaero" tab to check for connected aquabus devices it remained blank. Each device had its own tab in Aquasuite (they still do), and their sensors were not available to the Aquaero.
> A few months ago, when I was setting everything up, I asked in this thread whether I could use the 3-pin cables that came bundled with my devices, or needed to get extra 4-pins. Several people informed me I could use the 3-pin. Well, I couldn't. It may well be user error (in my case it always seems to be), but the only way I could get Aquabus properly set up was to use 4-pin cables for all the device-to-device connections. As soon as I did, everything worked as expected.


That sounds right. For the MPS (and pump?) power comes from the 4th pin on Aquabus. Here's mine







:


----------



## gftgy

I'm sorry for the questions that have been asked before. I'm looking at getting an Aquaero 6 and I'm wondering what cables are included, and what I need to purchase separately.

I gather that it comes with:
- four temperature sensors, length approx. 70 cm
- one internal USB cable, length approx. 100 cm
- one connection cable for speed signal or aquabus

So to clarify my interpretation, it comes with four 2-pin 70cm probe thermometers to be attached to any of its eight temperature inputs, one 5-pin internal USB cable to connect the aquaero 6 controller to the motherboard which provides computer monitoring and control via Aqua Suite, and one 3-pin "flow, rpm, or aquabus" cable (same as a 3-pin fan cable??) to connect to flow meters or other 3-pin tachometer instruments. Am I correct with everything so far?

This means I would need to purchase separately (assuming I connect these):
- 2-pin PWM cables to control pumps (Where can I find these? I'm assuming these connectors do not provide power? If they do provide power, how much?)
- My own 3 or 4-pin fan cables (I'm assuming these DO provide power?)
- Another 3-pin "flow or rpm" cable (Is this the same as a regular 3-pin fan cable? Does it provide power?)
- 4-pin Aquabus cables (Is this the same as a 4-pin fan cable? Does it provide power?)
- Any 4-pin IR or LED cables
- Whatever this 3-pin NC NO COM Relay thing is.
- 4-pin MOLEX power cable

Some more questions:
What is the NC NO COM Relay connection used for?
Can the 4-pin IR connector also be used to control RGB LEDs? (I believe this is the case for the Aquaero 5.)
What is this cable used for?
What is the difference between Aquabus High and Low?

Thanks for the help!


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gftgy*
> 
> I'm sorry for the questions that have been asked before. I'm looking at getting an Aquaero 6 and I'm wondering what cables are included, and what I need to purchase separately.
> 
> I gather that it comes with:
> - four temperature sensors, length approx. 70 cm
> - one internal USB cable, length approx. 100 cm
> - one connection cable for speed signal or aquabus
> 
> So to clarify my interpretation, it comes with four 2-pin 70cm probe thermometers to be attached to any of its eight temperature inputs, one 5-pin internal USB cable to connect the aquaero 6 controller to the motherboard which provides computer monitoring and control via Aqua Suite, and one 3-pin "flow, rpm, or aquabus" cable (same as a 3-pin fan cable??) to connect to flow meters or other 3-pin tachometer instruments. Am I correct with everything so far?
> 
> This means I would need to purchase separately (assuming I connect these):
> - 2-pin PWM cables to control pumps (Where can I find these? I'm assuming these connectors do not provide power? If they do provide power, how much?)
> - My own 3 or 4-pin fan cables (I'm assuming these DO provide power?)
> - Another 3-pin "flow or rpm" cable (Is this the same as a regular 3-pin fan cable? Does it provide power?)
> - 4-pin Aquabus cables (Is this the same as a 4-pin fan cable? Does it provide power?)
> - Any 4-pin IR or LED cables
> - Whatever this 3-pin NC NO COM Relay thing is.
> - 4-pin MOLEX power cable
> 
> Some more questions:
> What is the NC NO COM Relay connection used for?
> Can the 4-pin IR connector also be used to control RGB LEDs? (I believe this is the case for the Aquaero 5.)
> What is this cable used for?
> What is the difference between Aquabus High and Low?
> 
> Thanks for the help!


1. The 2 pin PWM ports are not for PWM controlled fans and pumps ... it is just a power output for LED's so no cables needed there
2. A spare 3 pin aquabus cable should not be needed as aquabus devices come with one. They are just female to female fan cables
3. 4 pin Aquabus cables are needed if you want to run Aquabus devices without having their USB connected. Again they are just female to female 4 pin fan cables.
4. The IR and LED ports also use the same 4 pin fan cables but IR is not functional and the LED port is designed for a specific Aquacomp single LED device.
5. The relays can be used for switching things on and off.
6. Aquabus only uses the high port now. The Low speed port is disabled in the latest firmware and the devices that used it are EOL
7. That large 24pin adaptor is used for connecting the relay port to the PC's power switch so the Aquaero can shut the system down.

So .... 4 pin female to female fan and ordinary fan extensions are good to have as spares. Everything else is pretty much provided.
I find these work well as Aquabus cables and as an Aquabus central splitter board.
http://www.performance-pcs.com/modmytoys-4-pin-pwm-female-to-4-pin-female-extension-cable-black-24-sleeved.html
http://www.performance-pcs.com/modmytoys-4-pin-pwm-power-distribution-pcb-4-way-block.html


----------



## gftgy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> So .... 4 pin female to female fan and ordinary fan extensions are good to have as spares. Everything else is pretty much provided.


Thanks for the quick reply! That was really helpful, and in conjunction with the user manual helped answer a lot of my questions. It's good to know that the cables are the same, though the pinouts on the connectors are different.

I still have a few more, however:
How can I connect a non-aquabus pump to be controlled via the aquaero? Do I have to use one of the fan connectors?
Is the aquabus-low connector entirely disabled, or can it still be used with 3-pin aquabus devices?
The IR connector doesn't work, still? Didn't they say they were enabling it somewhere around two years ago?
Do I need that large 24-pin connector to have the aquaero shut down the computer in an alarm event, or will the internal USB connection suffice?
Are the 2-pin PWM ports useful for anything besides LEDs? Could they be used to provide control and power to a 2-pin voltage-controlled fan (under 12W and without the tachometer reading)? The connection uses standard 2-pin fan cables, right?


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gftgy*
> 
> Thanks for the quick reply! That was really helpful, and in conjunction with the user manual helped answer a lot of my questions. It's good to know that the cables are the same, though the pinouts on the connectors are different.
> 
> I still have a few more, however:
> How can I connect a non-aquabus pump to be controlled via the aquaero? Do I have to use one of the fan connectors?
> Is the aquabus-low connector entirely disabled, or can it still be used with 3-pin aquabus devices?
> The IR connector doesn't work, still? Didn't they say they were enabling it somewhere around two years ago?
> Do I need that large 24-pin connector to have the aquaero shut down the computer in an alarm event, or will the internal USB connection suffice?
> Are the 2-pin PWM ports useful for anything besides LEDs? Could they be used to provide control and power to a 2-pin voltage-controlled fan (under 12W and without the tachometer reading)? The connection uses standard 2-pin fan cables, right?


To connect a non aquabus pump you use the fan headers.
The Aquabus Low is disabled entirely
They have said the IR is low priority.
The 24 pin adaptor is not strictly needed, its just an ease of installation thing. If you just wire you power switch cabling into or via the relay it does the same thing.
The USB connection can shut the PC down by using the HID standard and simulating a keyboard power button press. That requires the system to be running and stable though, and is kinda slow for an emergency function. The hardware power cutting works independant of the main system and can either shut down normally just as if you pressed the power button or it can do a rapid hard shutdown, just as if you held the power button down.
The 2 pin PWM power ports are PWM modulated 12V outputs. So anything 12V and under 1 Amp you can connect to it. Just no RPM feedback of course. The ports use specific plugs that you attach bare wires to ... its not fan cabling or connectors.


----------



## sinnedone

I was wondering if you can control a pwm fan connected to a motherboard through the aquasuite software? Would like to get rid of a program doing this one job and if I can do it in aquasuite then that would be better.


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sinnedone*
> 
> I was wondering if you can control a pwm fan connected to a motherboard through the aquasuite software? Would like to get rid of a program doing this one job and if I can do it in aquasuite then that would be better.


No, of course not.


----------



## sinnedone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> No, of course not.


lol was hoping.


----------



## gftgy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> The 2 pin PWM power ports are PWM modulated 12V outputs. So anything 12V and under 1 Amp you can connect to it. Just no RPM feedback of course. The ports use specific plugs that you attach bare wires to ... its not fan cabling or connectors.


Thanks again. This seems so very... odd! There's no connector to it? Are people supposed to use a soldering gun??

So would I take a PWM-controlled fan, cut off the pwm and tach wires, and connect the ground and voltage wires to it, or would I take a voltage-controlled fan and cut off the tach wire, connecting the ground and voltage wires.


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gftgy*
> 
> Thanks again. This seems so very... odd! There's no connector to it? Are people supposed to use a soldering gun??
> 
> So would I take a PWM-controlled fan, cut off the pwm and tach wires, and connect the ground and voltage wires to it, or would I take a voltage-controlled fan and cut off the tach wire, connecting the ground and voltage wires.


No the PWM ports use specific 2 pin connectors that they sell and in the connectors are 2 small screws. You insert bare wires and the screws clamp against the wire. The connectors fit into the 2 pin PWM ports on the Aquaero. http://www.performance-pcs.com/aquacomputer-aquaero-5-6-connector-2pol-for-relay-output.html
Same as the relay uses a specific 3 pin plug. The link above is labled relay but is actually for the PWM ports.

PWM control and PWM power supply are very different things.
PWM controlled pumps and fans run off a steady 12V supply and have internal electronics that recieve a PWM signal to set speed.
PWM modulated power supply is a form of voltage control. The 12V supply to the device is switched on and off rapidly with the gap between each switch changed such that for example it is on 50% of the time and off 50% which would then have an effect similar to providing 6V, or on 75% and off 25% being similar to providing 9V.

PWM power rapidly switches the 12V power line. PWM fans use a rapidly switched 5V PWM line as a control signal, but use steady 12V.
So from your example you use the power lines ( + and Gnd ) just as any other voltage controlled device.
This type of control is often used in low cost fan controllers like the Lamptrons. The rapid switching of the power is what causes the buzzing or clicking that people often attribute to fans they are using with the controller.


----------



## gftgy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> PWM power rapidly switches the 12V power line. PWM fans use a rapidly switched 5V PWM line as a control signal, but use steady 12V.
> So from your example you use the power lines ( + and Gnd ) just as any other voltage controlled device.
> This type of control is often used in low cost fan controllers like the Lamptrons. The rapid switching of the power is what causes the buzzing or clicking that people often attribute to fans they are using with the controller.


That's what I was afraid of. Sounds like an idea I shouldn't pursue. Thanks, again!


----------



## BaboonBP

I can't seem to find the information in the manual or anywhere on google, so I'd figure I'd ask here. I already have one Aquaero 6 XT in the box waiting for my Caselabs TH10A to be delivered, and was/am planning on using that and my two motherboard headers that output actual(but unfortunately linked) pwm fan signals. I'll be running 2 pwm pumps and 30+/- pwm fans(4 push/pull rads) using a lot of psu power supplied pwm signal splitters.

I was curious if it was possible to run 2 Aquaero 6 XTs to have all the pwm devices run through Aquasuite so I could control/monitor everything in one place? I have read about being able to run a 5 LT as a slave device, but can't seem to find any info if it is possible to have a 6 Pro or XT run as a slave, or as a fully separate device, but working together with the first in Aquasuite. If both the lcd's work and can output different information that would be even better, but I'd expect there would be conflicts somewhere.

I was unable to find anyone using 2 of them, so is that possible? Thanks in advance.


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BaboonBP*
> 
> I can't seem to find the information in the manual or anywhere on google, so I'd figure I'd ask here. I already have one Aquaero 6 XT in the box waiting for my Caselabs TH10A to be delivered, and was/am planning on using that and my two motherboard headers that output actual(but unfortunately linked) pwm fan signals. I'll be running 2 pwm pumps and 30+/- pwm fans(4 push/pull rads) using a lot of psu power supplied pwm signal splitters.
> 
> I was curious if it was possible to run 2 Aquaero 6 XTs to have all the pwm devices run through Aquasuite so I could control/monitor everything in one place? I have read about being able to run a 5 LT as a slave device, but can't seem to find any info if it is possible to have a 6 Pro or XT run as a slave, or as a fully separate device, but working together with the first in Aquasuite. If both the lcd's work and can output different information that would be even better, but I'd expect there would be conflicts somewhere.
> 
> I was unable to find anyone using 2 of them, so is that possible? Thanks in advance.


There used to be many people that used dual Aquaeros in the Aquacomp forum but the advent of the Aq6 made that much less popular.
It is totally doable to use two Aquaeros in the same system. They just run seperately and can't share info or devices between themselves. They can of course be monitored through the same overview page in aquasuite but they will have separate config menues.
Using another Aquaero as a slave is a more limited option that really just imitates adding 4 poweradjust. You lose PWM ability and most of the extra functions.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *BaboonBP*
> 
> I can't seem to find the information in the manual or anywhere on google, so I'd figure I'd ask here. I already have one Aquaero 6 XT in the box waiting for my Caselabs TH10A to be delivered, and was/am planning on using that and my two motherboard headers that output actual(but unfortunately linked) pwm fan signals. I'll be running 2 pwm pumps and 30+/- pwm fans(4 push/pull rads) using a lot of psu power supplied pwm signal splitters.
> 
> I was curious if it was possible to run 2 Aquaero 6 XTs to have all the pwm devices run through Aquasuite so I could control/monitor everything in one place? I have read about being able to run a 5 LT as a slave device, but can't seem to find any info if it is possible to have a 6 Pro or XT run as a slave, or as a fully separate device, but working together with the first in Aquasuite. If both the lcd's work and can output different information that would be even better, but I'd expect there would be conflicts somewhere.
> 
> I was unable to find anyone using 2 of them, so is that possible? Thanks in advance.
> 
> 
> 
> There used to be many people that used dual Aquaeros in the Aquacomp forum but the advent of the Aq6 made that much less popular.
> It is totally doable to use two Aquaeros in the same system. They just run seperately and can't share info or devices between themselves. They can of course be monitored through the same overview page in aquasuite but they will have separate config menues.
> Using another Aquaero as a slave is a more limited option that really just imitates adding 4 poweradjust. You lose PWM ability and most of the extra functions.
Click to expand...

he is correct, however to expand, you an use a aq pro or xt ( 6 or 5 ) as a slave, you just need to removed the lcd.
as a slave you keep the fan out puts and iirc the temp sensor inputs
and you can also use 2 separately, it seems daunting but it really isnt. it is fairly easy,

If you want no need to relay on software temps, just use a air water delta, you just need 2 air thermisters ( 4 come with each aquaero ) and 2 water temp sensors, you can generally do what you want, they just wont communicate with each other i do so in my th10

also if you run them separately both lcds work and both can output different info

just a fyi for you as it does matter, aquasuite does not control the fans, the aquaero does,
all aquasuite does is give the unit an interface that you can use a keyboard and a mouse to use, and programs the aquaero

this is important as if your pc freezes your fan controller continues to function


----------



## BaboonBP

Thanks for the input. It looks like I'll pick up a second one and run the pumps on one of them since those won't need much adjusting to get them quiet, and all the fans on the other linked to the inline and external temp sensors.


----------



## DanBr

The Aquaero Pump, I am now confused again with all the PWM talk
http://www.aquatuning.us/water-cooling/pumps/d5-series/d5-pumps/13775/aquacomputer-d5-pump-mechnics-with-usb-and-aquabus-interface

I plan to use the USB cable to connect to a USB headder
Molex for power
*It comes with a 3 pin cable,*
What is the best connection for that cable
1. Connect it to the CPU fan header on the Motherboard?
(would that give me immediate unsupervised shut down capability if pump fails)
2. Use this 3pin connection to connect to the Aquaero high port
(what does that give me in terms of control or functionality?)
Thanks
I am 1 day from actually hooking everything up and leak testing, just waiting for the relay mentioned in this forum to get another shut down function.
Dan


----------



## Anateus

Can Aq6 and farbwerk (connected via aquabus) work normally after being disconnected from my motherboards USB header?


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DanBr*
> 
> The Aquaero Pump, I am now confused again with all the PWM talk
> http://www.aquatuning.us/water-cooling/pumps/d5-series/d5-pumps/13775/aquacomputer-d5-pump-mechnics-with-usb-and-aquabus-interface
> 
> I plan to use the USB cable to connect to a USB headder
> Molex for power
> *It comes with a 3 pin cable,*
> What is the best connection for that cable
> 1. Connect it to the CPU fan header on the Motherboard?
> (would that give me immediate unsupervised shut down capability if pump fails)
> 2. Use this 3pin connection to connect to the Aquaero high port
> (what does that give me in terms of control or functionality?)
> Thanks
> I am 1 day from actually hooking everything up and leak testing, just waiting for the relay mentioned in this forum to get another shut down function.
> Dan


If you want the Aquaero to control the pump speed it has to be connected via Aquabus ... otherwise its just manual control.

You can connect the alarm header to the motherboard and set an alarm on pump stoppage to cut RPM signal but most motherboards I have worked with don't actively shut down without an rpm signal. For example on the Sabertooth it just gives you nice alert that CPU fan has stopped and keeps merrily trucking away til the Automatic thermal hard shutdown triggers.


----------



## DanBr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> If you want the Aquaero to control the pump speed it has to be connected via Aquabus ... otherwise its just manual control.
> 
> You can connect the alarm header to the motherboard and set an alarm on pump stoppage to cut RPM signal but most motherboards I have worked with don't actively shut down without an rpm signal.


thanks, I think I will hook it up to the Aquaero. From the Aquasuite would there be a shut down setting if the pump fails?


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DanBr*
> 
> thanks, I think I will hook it up to the Aquaero. From the Aquasuite would there be a shut down setting if the pump fails?


Aquasuite doesn't shut down anything or do anything much really. The Aquaero can shut down the system in a variety of ways based on many different variables if you set it all up right. A Unicorn fart could probably be set to trigger shutdown if you wanted.


----------



## Shoggy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anateus*
> 
> Can Aq6 and farbwerk (connected via aquabus) work normally after being disconnected from my motherboards USB header?


Yes, but the control via aquabus is limited and the setup of the aquaero without the software will be pretty frustrating


----------



## Anateus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> Yes, but the control via aquabus is limited and the setup of the aquaero without the software will be pretty frustrating


I mean, I want to set up everything (lights, RPM curves, etc), and then disconnect AQ6 and connect front USB hub.. unless there is some kind of USB header splitter, I have to disconnect AQ6


----------



## TheCautiousOne

So now the USB won't register at all... I can't get a flow readout from the MPS400 using the USB cable only. I have been for around a week.

Does an Overclock mess with it?

TCO


----------



## DanBr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> So now the USB won't register at all... I can't get a flow readout from the MPS400 using the USB cable only. I have been for around a week.
> 
> Does an Overclock mess with it?
> 
> TCO


does it show up or does it have a red x meaning no USB connection?
If it shows up but no flow I wonder if the fluid you are using is plugging the small holes in the MPS 400


----------



## DanBr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> Aquasuite doesn't shut down anything or do anything much really. The Aquaero can shut down the system in a variety of ways based on many different variables if you set it all up right. A Unicorn fart could probably be set to trigger shutdown if you wanted.


Ok but don't I "view and set" those Aquaero settings from the Aquasuite software?


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DanBr*
> 
> does it show up or does it have a red x meaning no USB connection?
> If it shows up but no flow I wonder if the fluid you are using is plugging the small holes in the MPS 400


Red X. Tried messing with the Cable also.. No Luck.

TCO


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BaboonBP*
> 
> Thanks for the input. It looks like I'll pick up a second one and run the pumps on one of them since those won't need much adjusting to get them quiet, and all the fans on the other linked to the inline and external temp sensors.


Just to not I saw a typo I made I ment to add an if you don't want to rely on software sensors
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *DanBr*
> 
> thanks, I think I will hook it up to the Aquaero. From the Aquasuite would there be a shut down setting if the pump fails?
> 
> 
> 
> Aquasuite doesn't shut down anything or do anything much really. The Aquaero can shut down the system in a variety of ways based on many different variables if you set it all up right. A Unicorn fart could probably be set to trigger shutdown if you wanted.
Click to expand...

Hahaha
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anateus*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> Yes, but the control via aquabus is limited and the setup of the aquaero without the software will be pretty frustrating
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I mean, I want to set up everything (lights, RPM curves, etc), and then disconnect AQ6 and connect front USB hub.. unless there is some kind of USB header splitter, I have to disconnect AQ6
Click to expand...

Not makes one I am on mobile and can't link to it atm
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> So now the USB won't register at all... I can't get a flow readout from the MPS400 using the USB cable only. I have been for around a week.
> 
> Does an Overclock mess with it?
> 
> TCO


Yes it can. But that doesn't mean it did


----------



## jvillaveces

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DanBr*
> 
> The Aquaero Pump, I am now confused again with all the PWM talk
> http://www.aquatuning.us/water-cooling/pumps/d5-series/d5-pumps/13775/aquacomputer-d5-pump-mechnics-with-usb-and-aquabus-interface
> 
> I plan to use the USB cable to connect to a USB headder
> Molex for power
> *It comes with a 3 pin cable,*
> What is the best connection for that cable
> 1. Connect it to the CPU fan header on the Motherboard?
> (would that give me immediate unsupervised shut down capability if pump fails)
> 2. Use this 3pin connection to connect to the Aquaero high port
> (what does that give me in terms of control or functionality?)
> Thanks
> I am 1 day from actually hooking everything up and leak testing, just waiting for the relay mentioned in this forum to get another shut down function.
> Dan


That is my pump too, I run two of them. I think you're going to love it! The 3-pin cable that comes with it is for the "tacho" port, which communicates the RPM signal, so you can connect it to your mobo CPU fan header. The 4-pin port next to it is for Aquabus, and you need a 4.pin f2f cable (not included) to connect to the AQuaero's "high" aquabus port. USB, of course, goes to a USB header, and "temp" is for an optional temperature sensor, also not included.
The pump will run fine with no Aquabus connection, i.e., connected only to USB. In Aquasuite it will have its own tab where you can control it, but neither the pump nor its sensors will show up in the Aquaero tab and they can't be used in its sensors or controllers. If you connect the Aquabus link and set the pump's priority to Aquabus, you can see it and control it through the aquaero tab.


----------



## Anateus

Are there any other options to connect AQ6 to my PC? I really want to have front USB3 hub and AQ6 accesible at the same time









Edit:
Actually.. wait. Maximus VII Impact has USB 3.0 and 2.0 headers.
AQ6 uses 2.0 or 3.0 header?


----------



## jvillaveces

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anateus*
> 
> I mean, I want to set up everything (lights, RPM curves, etc), and then disconnect AQ6 and connect front USB hub.. unless there is some kind of USB header splitter, I have to disconnect AQ6


I use this to keep all my Aquacomputers USB connections all the time: http://www.performance-pcs.com/nzxt-iu01-usb-2-0-internal-expansion-module.html


----------



## Anateus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jvillaveces*
> 
> I use this to keep all my Aquacomputers USB connections all the time: http://www.performance-pcs.com/nzxt-iu01-usb-2-0-internal-expansion-module.html


I actually think I will be fine, Aquaero manual says it uses 5pin header variant, so it should be USB 2.0, right?


----------



## jvillaveces

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anateus*
> 
> I actually think I will be fine, Aquaero manual says it uses 5pin header variant, so it should be USB 2.0, right?


Yes, all the AC devices use USB 2.0


----------



## Anateus

What a relief








Is it possible to change the faceplate when aquaero is already mounted inside drive bay?


----------



## DanBr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jvillaveces*
> 
> Yes, all the AC devices use USB 2.0


If I am connecting the pump to the Aquaero 6 via the Aquabus High Port (using 3 pin rpm wire) Do I need to also connect it via USB to the Motherboard?
thanks
Dan


----------



## Mega Man

Correct


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DanBr*
> 
> If I am connecting the pump to the Aquaero 6 via the Aquabus High Port (using 3 pin rpm wire) Do I need to also connect it via USB to the Motherboard?
> thanks
> Dan


Not once it has been set properly via usb.
The pump does not need the 4 pin aquabus cable if that is what you are asking.


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DanBr*
> 
> Ok but don't I "view and set" those Aquaero settings from the Aquasuite software?


Yep, you got it. Just saying that aquasuite is not needed to be running for the aquaero to do it's thing


----------



## DanBr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> Not once it has been set properly via usb.
> The pump does not need the 4 pin aquabus cable if that is what you are asking.


No I was asking about the 5 pin USB cable in addition to the 3 pin cable that WILL be connected to the high Aquabus port
Dan


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Wow.. Boot up the Computer with same OC as yesterday and the MPS is recognized. This is very strange and inconsistent.

TCO


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Wow.. Boot up the Computer with same OC as yesterday and the MPS is recognized. This is very strange and inconsistent.
> 
> TCO


. . . . . and one of the main reasons why I just use the Koolance flow meters and displays . . .









D.


----------



## DanBr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> . . . . . and one of the main reasons why I just use the Koolance flow meters and displays . . .
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> D.


what displays are you talking about?
Dan


----------



## DanBr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Wow.. Boot up the Computer with same OC as yesterday and the MPS is recognized. This is very strange and inconsistent.
> 
> TCO


What do you mean by OC?
Is it original configuration?


----------



## DanBr

With a strip of RGB and the farbwerk, can an alarm color change be set using Aquasuite?
Could I have it set for one color under normal operation and then have it change if alarm triggers (water temp, etc) are met?
I don't have any other LEDs to connecct to Aquaero or farbwerk at this time.
Dan


----------



## jvillaveces

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DanBr*
> 
> With a strip of RGB and the farbwerk, can an alarm color change be set using Aquasuite?
> Could I have it set for one color under normal operation and then have it change if alarm triggers (water temp, etc) are met?
> I don't have any other LEDs to connecct to Aquaero or farbwerk at this time.
> Dan


Yes, it's easy to set it up like that. Once you start playing with the configurations, you will see other interesting options, like having it pulse or flash certain colors under specific circumstances. If you set up the aquaero to use an ambieent-cooant delta, as suggested repeatedly in this thread, you can use that same virtual sensor to drive the farbwerk.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DanBr*
> 
> What do you mean by OC?
> Is it original configuration?


Overclock.

TCO


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DanBr*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> . . . . . and one of the main reasons why I just use the Koolance flow meters and displays . . .
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> D.
> 
> 
> 
> what displays are you talking about?
> Dan
Click to expand...

This one:



http://www.performance-pcs.com/5-1-4-inch-bay-products/new-koolance-flow-meter-adapter-with-display.html



D.


----------



## Jflisk

This is a variation on the one above

Koolance has them on sale as refurb's . If anyone's interested

http://koolance.com/ins-fm18d-r-coolant-flow-meter-stainless-steel-with-display-refurb

My better question is why my adapter does not look like that one.

Never mind its a newer design then mine


----------



## sinnedone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Wow.. Boot up the Computer with same OC as yesterday and the MPS is recognized. This is very strange and inconsistent.
> 
> TCO


I was having some odd issues with mine, then i went it to MPS menu and reset the mps to factory default and its worked well ever since.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jflisk*
> 
> This is a variation on the one above
> 
> Koolance has them on sale as refurb's . If anyone's interested
> 
> http://koolance.com/ins-fm18d-r-coolant-flow-meter-stainless-steel-with-display-refurb
> 
> My better question is why my adapter does not look like that one.


The one you linked is a stand alone, flow meter/integral display, version which is meant to be completely inside the case, where you can't normally get to it to press buttons to make display unit selections, or select which flow meter it's displaying.

It lacks the flexibility of the one I showed, but on the plus side for some builds, it doesn't take up an optical bay space.

To create sort of a win / win situation so I didn't virtually waste a bay space, I used one like I linked in my Core X9 build, and used the optical bay tray to mount a 5LT that's slaved to the 6XT in the upper bay.



D.


----------



## Jflisk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> The one you linked is a stand alone, flow meter/integral display, version which is meant to be completely inside the case, where you can't normally get to it to press buttons to make display unit selections, or select which flow meter it's displaying.
> 
> It lacks the flexibility of the one I showed, but on the plus side for some builds, it doesn't take up an optical bay space.
> 
> To create sort of a win / win situation so I didn't virtually waste a bay space, I used one like I linked in my Core X9 build, and used the optical bay tray to mount a 5LT that's slaved to the 6XT in the upper bay.
> 
> 
> 
> D.


Wheres the rest of the pictures on this build its nice.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jflisk*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> The one you linked is a stand alone, flow meter/integral display, version which is meant to be completely inside the case, where you can't normally get to it to press buttons to make display unit selections, or select which flow meter it's displaying.
> 
> It lacks the flexibility of the one I showed, but on the plus side for some builds, it doesn't take up an optical bay space.
> 
> To create sort of a win / win situation so I didn't virtually waste a bay space, I used one like I linked in my Core X9 build, and used the optical bay tray to mount a 5LT that's slaved to the 6XT in the upper bay.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> D.
> 
> 
> 
> Wheres the rest of the pictures on this build its nice.
Click to expand...

I've been totally a slacker at keeping up the build log, but I have kept up with the progress, posting in the Thermaltake Core X Owners Club thread.



Some links:

http://www.overclock.net/t/1538271/thermaltake-core-x-case-owners-club-x1-x2-x9-x9-snow-ed/1480#post_24158208

http://www.overclock.net/t/1538271/thermaltake-core-x-case-owners-club-x1-x2-x9-x9-snow-ed/1800#post_24276435

I'm about 85 to 90% done, but I needed a break for a couple weeks, as August in the Caribbean is just too bloody hot to want to work too hard.

Darlene


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> I've been totally a slacker at keeping up the build log, but I have kept up with the progress, posting in the Thermaltake Core X Owners Club thread.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Some links:
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1538271/thermaltake-core-x-case-owners-club-x1-x2-x9-x9-snow-ed/1480#post_24158208
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1538271/thermaltake-core-x-case-owners-club-x1-x2-x9-x9-snow-ed/1800#post_24276435
> 
> 
> 
> I'm about 85 to 90% done, but I needed a break for a couple weeks, *as August in the Caribbean* is just too bloody hot to want to work too hard.
> 
> Darlene












And you don't invite your baby over to Relax and Mingle?









TCO


----------



## Jflisk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> I've been totally a slacker at keeping up the build log, but I have kept up with the progress, posting in the Thermaltake Core X Owners Club thread.
> 
> 
> 
> Some links:
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1538271/thermaltake-core-x-case-owners-club-x1-x2-x9-x9-snow-ed/1480#post_24158208
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1538271/thermaltake-core-x-case-owners-club-x1-x2-x9-x9-snow-ed/1800#post_24276435
> 
> I'm about 85 to 90% done, but I needed a break for a couple weeks, as August in the Caribbean is just too bloody hot to want to work too hard.
> 
> Darlene


Sure that's a computer and not one of them there flux capacitors.

I mean I have seen some nice systems on here. You should put that up for a build to be judged in a contest. The colors and the extras just blend. You have my respect for this one. Thanks for sharing


----------



## DanBr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jvillaveces*
> 
> Yes, it's easy to set it up like that. Once you start playing with the configurations, you will see other interesting options, like having it pulse or flash certain colors under specific circumstances. If you set up the aquaero to use an ambieent-cooant delta, as suggested repeatedly in this thread, you can use that same virtual sensor to drive the farbwerk.


great, my plan is to set up the ambient coolant delta
Thanks


----------



## zerophase

I noticed no matter which preset value I put my two pumps in, aq6 shows 4,500 rpms. How would I go about correctly configuring a fan header for controlling a pwm pump?


----------



## gftgy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> If you want the Aquaero to control the pump speed it has to be connected via Aquabus ... otherwise its just manual control.


Semi-related question:

The manual says:
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aquaero 6 User Manual*
> Both aquabus connectors are also compatible with 3 pin aquabus devices. The additional "pin 4" supplies power to compatible 4 pin aquabus devices. For example, a poweradjust 2 unit (3 pin) and a mps flow 200 unit (4 pin) can simultaneously be connected using a 4 pin Y adapter cable (art. 53124).


Does that mean I can connect the Aquabus D5 pump and an MPS flow sensor onto the same aquabus header via a Y-cable? Would I still have full control of the pump, along with all instrument readings from the pump and the flow sensor? e.g. pump speed control, pump internal flow/speed reading, pump internal temperature reading, thermometer connected to pump temperature input, flow sensor internal flow reading, flow sensor internal temperature reading, thermometer connected to flow sensor input, and internal pressure reading all through one aquabus connection? (Additionally, can the aquaero detect the pressure reading itself, or only the differential pressure for flow?)

What if I swapped out the flow sensor for another Aquabus-controlled D5 pump? How about all three together with another splitter?


----------



## DanBr

The temp sensors that come with the Aquaero...
Does it matter which way they are connected?
On the connector, there is a triangle mark but no indication on the Aquaero which side that would go to


----------



## Mega Man

No it doesn't


----------



## sinnedone

So after setting up fan curves using coolant temperatures, every once in a while I get an up/down of fan speed.

I've seen it mentioned about setting up an ambient vs coolant temperature curve and wanted to know if there was an explanation on how to accomplish this?


----------



## DanBr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> No it doesn't


thanks


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sinnedone*
> 
> So after setting up fan curves using coolant temperatures, every once in a while I get an up/down of fan speed.
> 
> I've seen it mentioned about setting up an ambient vs coolant temperature curve and wanted to know if there was an explanation on how to accomplish this?


Open Aquaero tab on aquasuite. Go to sensors. Then click virtual temp sensor. There are 4 open slots. Click one (you can give it a name). On the right side there are 3 open slots where you can put your temp sensors (water and air). Mode give you the option of choosing what sort of relation you want between the two sensors. In my case I choose absolute difference but could it be too just the temp difference. Bingo you have a delta air-ambient temp now. Now go to controller tab. On the left side add the virtual you just created. on the right side the stuff you want to control (fans or pumps). Then in the middle you choose the type of controller you want and the shape of the controller (example I have a smooth curve controller for fans and a stepwise controller for pumps).


----------



## Shoggy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gftgy*
> 
> Semi-related question:
> 
> The manual says:
> Does that mean I can connect the Aquabus D5 pump and an MPS flow sensor onto the same aquabus header via a Y-cable? Would I still have full control of the pump, along with all instrument readings from the pump and the flow sensor? e.g. pump speed control, pump internal flow/speed reading, pump internal temperature reading, thermometer connected to pump temperature input, flow sensor internal flow reading, flow sensor internal temperature reading, thermometer connected to flow sensor input, and internal pressure reading all through one aquabus connection? (Additionally, can the aquaero detect the pressure reading itself, or only the differential pressure for flow?)
> 
> What if I swapped out the flow sensor for another Aquabus-controlled D5 pump? How about all three together with another splitter?


I think you screw up a lot of stuff here







The D5 aquabus pump has no internal flow sensor and also no internal temperature etc. The flow sensor can not read the pressure in your loop. Even after reading your sentence a few times I have given up to find every mistake inside it









The pump and sensor use the same controller board so by default they also use the same aquabus ID number which you have to change at first for one of them. This can be only done when the device is connected via USB. In the system tab you will find a box where you can change the ID number. It is like an IP number in a network, it must be unique.

The aquabus offers only very limited control and monitoring abilities. For the sensor you have to do all the calibration settings via USB at first because later the aquabus will only read out the flow sensor and temperature values. These is nothing that you can change via aquabus. The pump only allows to change its speed and you can read out the external temperature port if a sensor is connected.


----------



## 47 Knucklehead

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DanBr*
> 
> If I am connecting the pump to the Aquaero 6 via the Aquabus High Port (using 3 pin rpm wire) Do I need to also connect it via USB to the Motherboard?
> thanks
> Dan


In all honesty, if the device has USB and Aquabus, don't bother with Aquabus. Just connect it via USB and be done with it. You can't update the firmware via Aquabus, you have to do that via USB, so just get an internal USB hub, like the one from NZXT, and hook all your Aquacomputer devices up to that. That is how I hook up all my Aquacomputer stuff. I run a single 5-pin USB header to 5-pin USB header from my motherboard to the NZXT IU01, then hook my Aquacomputer devices to the NZXT IU01. Easy as pie.

https://www.nzxt.com/product/detail/99-iu01-usb-expansion-case-accessory.html


----------



## sinnedone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Open Aquaero tab on aquasuite. Go to sensors. Then click virtual temp sensor. There are 4 open slots. Click one (you can give it a name). On the right side there are 3 open slots where you can put your temp sensors (water and air). Mode give you the option of choosing what sort of relation you want between the two sensors. In my case I choose absolute difference but could it be too just the temp difference. Bingo you have a delta air-ambient temp now. Now go to controller tab. On the left side add the virtual you just created. on the right side the stuff you want to control (fans or pumps). Then in the middle you choose the type of controller you want and the shape of the controller (example I have a smooth curve controller for fans and a stepwise controller for pumps).


Thank you Gabriel.







You've been alot of help with my aquaero/aquasuite adventures.


----------



## gftgy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> I think you screw up a lot of stuff here
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The D5 aquabus pump has no internal flow sensor and also no internal temperature etc. The flow sensor can not read the pressure in your loop. Even after reading your sentence a few times I have given up to find every mistake inside it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The pump and sensor use the same controller board so by default they also use the same aquabus ID number which you have to change at first for one of them. This can be only done when the device is connected via USB. In the system tab you will find a box where you can change the ID number. It is like an IP number in a network, it must be unique.
> 
> The aquabus offers only very limited control and monitoring abilities. For the sensor you have to do all the calibration settings via USB at first because later the aquabus will only read out the flow sensor and temperature values. These is nothing that you can change via aquabus. The pump only allows to change its speed and you can read out the external temperature port if a sensor is connected.


Thanks for the reply. So to clarify:

If I want to connect the aquabus D5 pump and an MPS flow sensor to the same aquabus connection via a Y-cable, I will have to connect the MPS flow sensor via USB first. I will then have to change the MPS flow sensor ID number, and calibrate it while it is connected via USB. After it has been calibrated and its ID number changed, I will be able to unplug the USB connection, and control and monitor both the pump and the MPS flow sensor through the aquabus connection split via Y-cable. Correct so far?

This means if I have the D5 pump and MPS flow sensor connected to aquabus via a Y-cable, I will be able to do all of the following through the aquaero:
Control the pump speed (rpm)
Monitor pump rpm
Monitor temperature from temperature probe connected to temperature input on the pump
Monitor flow rate from flow sensor
Monitor temperature from flow sensor
Monitor temperature from temperature probe connected to temperature input on the flow sensor

Is this correct? I will be able to control the pump speed and have five sensor inputs through one aquabus connection? Aside from changing the ID number with a USB connection, how will this be affected by adding another pump?


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *47 Knucklehead*
> 
> In all honesty, if the device has USB and Aquabus, don't bother with Aquabus. Just connect it via USB and be done with it. You can't update the firmware via Aquabus, you have to do that via USB, so just get an internal USB hub, like the one from NZXT, and hook all your Aquacomputer devices up to that. That is how I hook up all my Aquacomputer stuff. I run a single 5-pin USB header to 5-pin USB header from my motherboard to the NZXT IU01, then hook my Aquacomputer devices to the NZXT IU01. Easy as pie.
> 
> https://www.nzxt.com/product/detail/99-iu01-usb-expansion-case-accessory.html


That is true mostly but it doesn't give the aquaero control of the pump.

I used to have all devices conected via usb and it was convenient being able to just flip the priority from manual to aquabus but I have changed to using aquabus only. The wiring is simpler and neater. The usb connection is rarely needed because only seriously major updates will change the firmware of the mps devices and I can't even remember the last one. If the USB is ever needed it can just be connected while the system is running, unlike the Aquabus, and with a single cable you can make changes to the devices one at a time.

It used to be the case that full usb connection provided lots of options, control and feedback that aquabus did not but the newer firmwates changed all that.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Check this Dual MPS Readout, Red Line and No Redline in Aquasuite, I only have one installed.



TCO


----------



## sinnedone

Dat be some funky stuff there bro.









If no one has a fix I would just say reset both the aqauero and mps to factory defaults followed by a complete uninstall and reinstall of the software.


----------



## zerophase

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Check this Dual MPS Readout, Red Line and No Redline in Aquasuite, I only have one installed.
> 
> 
> 
> TCO


That is odd.

For configuring it you just dial in the model, and choose the tube size, right? Finished off my config and have no idea if I did it right or not. Have to figure out how to calculate the zero value for non Aquacomputer parts.


----------



## Mega Man

delete the old one


----------



## Archea47

I have my MPS on 8mm ID/10mm OD hard copper tubing

Dies anyone happen to have a calibration file?


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> delete the old one


This. It just got a different address at some point. Just delete the one with the red cross.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Archea47*
> 
> I have my MPS on 8mm ID/10mm OD hard copper tubing
> 
> Dies anyone happen to have a calibration file?


If I recall correctly Aquacomputer have factory calibration to 8 ID/ 10 OD. Just get from the scroll down rectangle close to "import calibration data".


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> This. It just got a different address at some point. Just delete the one with the red cross.
> :


Deleted!

TCO


----------



## gftgy

Quick question while I wait for Shoggy to answer my last one:

Can you control two pumps via aquabus? (I know you have to change the internal ID with USB, but after that is done, can you control them both via the aquabus connection on the aquaero with a Y-cable?)


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gftgy*
> 
> Quick question while I wait for Shoggy to answer my last one:
> 
> Can you control two pumps via aquabus? (I know you have to change the internal ID with USB, but after that is done, can you control them both via the aquabus connection on the aquaero with a Y-cable?)


yes you can.


----------



## gftgy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> yes you can.


Sorry I didn't specify. Can you control them separately? Such as if I have them in different loops and I would prefer for one to spin at a higher speed than the other?


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gftgy*
> 
> Sorry I didn't specify. Can you control them separately? Such as if I have them in different loops and I would prefer for one to spin at a higher speed than the other?


http://www.serifwebresources.com/phpBB2mt/viewtopic.php?t=7&sid=bc4755543128ab18654907b9d5b449a9&forumid=872280

I strongly recommend that you read this and the manual of the pump and aquaero. Each pump will show under the aquaero pumps menu if connected via aquabus. Since you put different address to it they will be recognized as different devices and accordingly give you control of it individually (so far as I known).


----------



## deeph

I have USB D5 pump, should I keep the flow below 1GPM or I could set the pump speed to follow the temp?

and also my MPS400 reading look like not true, when I give full speed of my pump it only showing 0.7 GPM max. But when I look at the reservoir the flow is heavy. I have followed the steps from previous Shoggy's post to calibrate the MPS.
I'm using,
- 240mm radiator
- 360mm radiator
- CPU wb
- GPU wb
- motherboard wb
- AQ filter
- 10/16mm soft tubing without the membrane in the MPS

I do shut down my pc after I clicked 'Import calibration data' on MPS400.

Oh and my Aquasuite often to freeze, I have to restart the Aquasuite to make run again.

Can someone tell me how to solve those issues?









deeph


----------



## gamerking

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *deeph*
> 
> I have USB D5 pump, should I keep the flow below 1GPM or I could set the pump speed to follow the temp?
> 
> and also my MPS400 reading look like not true, when I give full speed of my pump it only showing 0.7 GPM max. But when I look at the reservoir the flow is heavy. I have followed the steps from previous Shoggy's post to calibrate the MPS.
> I'm using,
> - 240mm radiator
> - 360mm radiator
> - CPU wb
> - GPU wb
> - motherboard wb
> - AQ filter
> - 10/16mm soft tubing without the membrane in the MPS
> 
> I do shut down my pc after I clicked 'Import calibration data' on MPS400.
> 
> Oh and my Aquasuite often to freeze, I have to restart the Aquasuite to make run again.
> 
> Can someone tell me how to solve those issues?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> deeph


for the aqua suite the only fix i was able to come up with was having to do a OS wipe . i tried running it in compatibility mode, having it auto start as admin . once i did a os wipe for another reason its been fine since none of it randomly quitting for no reason


----------



## thedoo

Just got my Aquaero in today and I have a question about the Fan RPM reading. It seems to jump all over the place from 2000 to 800 and everything in between. I have 4 Vardar F4-120 connected to a ModMyToys 4-pin PWM Power Distribution board. Specifically, this one: http://www.performance-pcs.com/modmytoys-4-pin-pwm-power-distribution-pcb-4-way-block.html With a 4pin female to female PWM cable coming from the board to the Aquaero Fan1 header.

Is there something I am doing wrong? How can I get my RPM reading to be stable. If I just plug 1 fan into the board it seems to be fine.


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thedoo*
> 
> Just got my Aquaero in today and I have a question about the Fan RPM reading. It seems to jump all over the place from 2000 to 800 and everything in between. I have 4 Vardar F4-120 connected to a ModMyToys 4-pin PWM Power Distribution board. Specifically, this one: http://www.performance-pcs.com/modmytoys-4-pin-pwm-power-distribution-pcb-4-way-block.html With a 4pin female to female PWM cable coming from the board to the Aquaero Fan1 header.
> 
> Is there something I am doing wrong? How can I get my RPM reading to be stable. If I just plug 1 fan into the board it seems to be fine.


Need to make sure it is only getting one rpm feed


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thedoo*
> 
> Just got my Aquaero in today and I have a question about the Fan RPM reading. It seems to jump all over the place from 2000 to 800 and everything in between. I have 4 Vardar F4-120 connected to a ModMyToys 4-pin PWM Power Distribution board. Specifically, this one: http://www.performance-pcs.com/modmytoys-4-pin-pwm-power-distribution-pcb-4-way-block.html With a 4pin female to female PWM cable coming from the board to the Aquaero Fan1 header.
> 
> Is there something I am doing wrong? How can I get my RPM reading to be stable. If I just plug 1 fan into the board it seems to be fine.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> Need to make sure it is only getting one rpm feed


^^this. If all 4 fans are sending rpm signal back to aquaero it goes crazy and fluctuates the readings. Most likely your spliter have all 4 fans sending the signal. I think you can scratch the pcb on the back to take the signal out of 3 of the 4 fan headers.


----------



## zerophase

The Aquaero 6 xt controls my pump correctly once I put in min and max rpms.


----------



## thedoo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> ^^this. If all 4 fans are sending rpm signal back to aquaero it goes crazy and fluctuates the readings. Most likely your spliter have all 4 fans sending the signal. I think you can scratch the pcb on the back to take the signal out of 3 of the 4 fan headers.


Ok so looking at the back of the PCB: 

I have to scratch the areas in red? And then only the last fan would have its signal transfer out? EDIT: Looking at it, I think it would just have to be the 3rd red box to cut the top 3 headers?

EDIT2: Woops, thats the PWM pin, meant the 2nd stripe, not the 1st.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thedoo*
> 
> Ok so looking at the back of the PCB:
> 
> I have to scratch the areas in red? And then only the last fan would have its signal transfer out? EDIT: Looking at it, I think it would just have to be the 3rd red box to cut the top 3 headers?
> 
> EDIT2: Woops, thats the PWM pin, meant the 2nd stripe, not the 1st.


here we go:

http://www.overclock.net/t/1474470/ocn-aquaero-owners-club/270#post_22048369

http://www.overclock.net/t/1474470/ocn-aquaero-owners-club/1100#post_22527313


----------



## dodgethis

Hey guys.

I'm wondering, does anyone run Aquasuite and an Aquaero, together with a USB audio interface? I noticed that while gaming over a USB audio interface (running both a Tascam US-366 and FiiO E07K, one at a time), I get some crackling audio. Once I turn off Aquasuite, the crackles go away. Also I noticed occurred after I went to Win8.1, from Win7.


----------



## gftgy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dodgethis*
> 
> Hey guys.
> 
> I'm wondering, does anyone run Aquasuite with an Aquaero together with a USB audio interface? I noticed that while gaming over a USB audio interface (running both a Tascam US-366 and FiiO E07K, one at a time), I get some crackling audio. Once I turn off Aquasuite, the crackles go away.


That sounds to me like a motherboard issue. My bet is you have an internal USB header (connected to the aquaero) that shares its connection with an external USB header. Some motherboards do that. So, basic question: Have you tried plugging your audio into a different USB port? Try all of them to see if the problem goes away or remains.

EDIT: Did I understand your question properly, or are you saying that you are having this issue with USB audio, even though the aquarero is not connected over USB?


----------



## thedoo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> here we go:
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1474470/ocn-aquaero-owners-club/270#post_22048369
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1474470/ocn-aquaero-owners-club/1100#post_22527313


OK, thanks for the help, I'll give it a go.


----------



## dodgethis

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gftgy*
> 
> That sounds to me like a motherboard issue. My bet is you have an internal USB header (connected to the aquaero) that shares its connection with an external USB header. Some motherboards do that. So, basic question: Have you tried plugging your audio into a different USB port? Try all of them to see if the problem goes away or remains.
> 
> EDIT: Did I understand your question properly, or are you saying that you are having this issue with USB audio, even though the aquarero is not connected over USB?


Whoops sorry for not being clear. The Aquaero is connected to one of the internal USB2.0 headers while the interfaces are the rear USB ports. I have swapped around the ports between the USB2 and USB3 ports and I am still getting crackling with Aquasuite on. Once it's off, the crackling goes away.


----------



## gftgy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dodgethis*
> 
> Whoops sorry for not being clear. The Aquaero is connected to one of the internal USB2.0 headers while the interfaces are the rear USB ports. I have swapped around the ports between the USB2 and USB3 ports and I am still getting crackling with Aquasuite on. Once it's off, the crackling goes away.


Probably not the internal header interfering with the external header, then. I would try plugging the aquaero into a different internal header just to be sure.
Other possible causes:
- Limited motherboard bandwidth. This is unlikely, but it can be tested relatively easily by plugging in more USB devices that use more bandwidth than the aquaero.
- Faulty sound card/driver. Much more likely. If your sound processing is done by your gpu/add-in sound card/motherboard sound card, try switching from one device to another in device manager. To be sure, you can try the manual route and unplug the gpu and/or add-in sound card as well, if applicable, to make sure the sound processing isn't being done on those. Be sure you update all applicable drivers.
- Other software/hardware issue. This gets a bit more complex. Try the above quick-fix solutions and report back.

EDIT: Try also unplugging the aquaero's USB, and testing whether aquasuite running still causes the USB audio cracking.


----------



## Z0eff

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> here we go:
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1474470/ocn-aquaero-owners-club/270#post_22048369
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1474470/ocn-aquaero-owners-club/1100#post_22527313


Ah, I guess that's why the RPM reads zero for most of the time for me as well.

Some pictures of me modding a variant with 8 fan headers and a SATA power connector:







...yes I have very poor motor skills, but I blame it at least partially on the bluntness of the knife!









The fix worked, it's giving me a proper RPM signal in HWiNFO now.


----------



## Jakusonfire

To modify the large powered ones all you have to do is cut all the short wires on the top of the card except the one beside the single header. No scratching required.


----------



## Z0eff

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> To modify the large powered ones all you have to do is cut all the short wires on the top of the card except the one beside the single header. No scratching required.


Cutting 2 places instead of 7 seemed like far less difficulties.


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Z0eff*
> 
> Cutting 2 places instead of 7 seemed like far less difficulties.


Til you slip and cut the wrong trace


----------



## thedoo

OK, worked great thanks for the help guys.

4 Way PCB: 6 Way PCB:


----------



## electro2u

I much prefer to just remove the pins from the headers


----------



## Shoggy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gftgy*
> 
> If I want to connect the aquabus D5 pump and an MPS flow sensor to the same aquabus connection via a Y-cable, I will have to connect the MPS flow sensor via USB first. I will then have to change the MPS flow sensor ID number, and calibrate it while it is connected via USB. After it has been calibrated and its ID number changed, I will be able to unplug the USB connection, and control and monitor both the pump and the MPS flow sensor through the aquabus connection split via Y-cable. Correct so far?
> 
> This means if I have the D5 pump and MPS flow sensor connected to aquabus via a Y-cable, I will be able to do all of the following through the aquaero:
> Control the pump speed (rpm)
> Monitor pump rpm
> Monitor temperature from temperature probe connected to temperature input on the pump
> Monitor flow rate from flow sensor
> Monitor temperature from flow sensor
> Monitor temperature from temperature probe connected to temperature input on the flow sensor
> 
> Is this correct? I will be able to control the pump speed and have five sensor inputs through one aquabus connection? Aside from changing the ID number with a USB connection, how will this be affected by adding another pump?


Yes, that is correct. For the pump you should also change the communication priority to aqabus. This can be done in the system tab too (USB only).

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Check this Dual MPS Readout, Red Line and No Redline in Aquasuite, I only have one installed.


If you see more than one device it means that at some point it was not detected correctly. The aquasuite will add a new entry per serial number so it seems you have a problem with the USB communication where at some point this information was read out wrong.


----------



## gftgy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> Yes, that is correct. For the pump you should also change the communication priority to aqabus.


Great, thanks! You didn't mention how this would be affected by adding another pump to the aquabus connection, however.


----------



## Shoggy

You can connect a second pump but of course it also must use a different aquabus ID.


----------



## InfoSeeker

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gftgy*
> 
> Great, thanks! You didn't mention how this would be affected by adding another pump to the aquabus connection, however.


I have two D5 USB/aquabus pumps in the same loop, so I want them to run the same speed:


For your case with two loops, you would add a controller and have the second pump controlled by it.
Both pump can then be controlled independently and at different speeds.


----------



## dodgethis

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gftgy*
> 
> Probably not the internal header interfering with the external header, then. I would try plugging the aquaero into a different internal header just to be sure.
> Other possible causes:
> - Limited motherboard bandwidth. This is unlikely, but it can be tested relatively easily by plugging in more USB devices that use more bandwidth than the aquaero.
> - Faulty sound card/driver. Much more likely. If your sound processing is done by your gpu/add-in sound card/motherboard sound card, try switching from one device to another in device manager. To be sure, you can try the manual route and unplug the gpu and/or add-in sound card as well, if applicable, to make sure the sound processing isn't being done on those. Be sure you update all applicable drivers.
> - Other software/hardware issue. This gets a bit more complex. Try the above quick-fix solutions and report back.
> 
> EDIT: Try also unplugging the aquaero's USB, and testing whether aquasuite running still causes the USB audio cracking.


Did the last test

USB in, Aquasuite on - crackle
USB out, Aquasuite on - crackle
USB in, Aquasuite off - no crackle
USB out, Aquasuite off - no crackle


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> If you see more than one device it means that at some point it was not detected correctly. The aquasuite will add a new entry per serial number so it seems you have a problem with the USB communication where at some point this information was read out wrong.


Thanks CatDaddy Shoggy. I will mess around with the cable.

TCO


----------



## ozzy1925

every 2 or 3 days my aquero souınds alarm but when i check everything seems ok.Is this a bug? I am using aquasuite 2015-6


----------



## gftgy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dodgethis*
> 
> Did the last test
> 
> USB in, Aquasuite on - crackle
> USB out, Aquasuite on - crackle
> USB in, Aquasuite off - no crackle
> USB out, Aquasuite off - no crackle


Yeah, it's almost certainly not a USB issue. (At least, not a USB issue pertaining to the aquaero. It doesn't necessarily exclude that there could be a USB issue with your headphones, but I think that's rather unlikely.)

Try the other quickfix I mentioned:

- Faulty sound card/driver. Much more likely. If your sound processing is done by your gpu/add-in sound card/motherboard sound card, try switching from one device to another in device manager. To be sure, you can try the manual route and unplug the gpu and/or add-in sound card as well, if applicable, to make sure the sound processing isn't being done on those. Be sure you update all applicable drivers.

If you have other devices that can use USB audio out as well, it would be a good idea to test those, too, to see if the issue is isolated to your single device or to all devices using USB audio.

Also, thank you Shoggy and InfoSeeker for the help!


----------



## rioja

Do latest versions of D5 PWM (not Aquacomper) pumps work correct with AE6? There are some rumors that those PWM incompatibility was resolved, but no straight evidence though


----------



## Mega Man

All d5s work with aq6. All pwm d5s that are not the new aq d5s work but need the diva mod


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ozzy1925*
> 
> every 2 or 3 days my aquero souınds alarm but when i check everything seems ok.Is this a bug? I am using aquasuite 2015-6


Check the log and see what alarm was triggered.


----------



## ozzy1925

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> Check the log and see what alarm was triggered.


edit:here

can you tell me what happened pumps lost connection?


----------



## Z0eff

Mine finally arrived, ordered online from a dutch store but I think they were out of stock at AC themselves or something.

Add me to the owners list when you have time IT Diva.


----------



## zerophase

Can the aq6 control the Bluetooth version of the Farbwerk? Will high density strips work with the controller?


----------



## Shoggy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zerophase*
> 
> Can the aq6 control the Bluetooth version of the Farbwerk?


No, because the Bluetooth variant has no aquabus interface.


----------



## BrettJSr72

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> No, because the Bluetooth variant has no aquabus interface.


Will there ever be a Bluetooth version for iOS?


----------



## Shoggy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BrettJSr72*
> 
> Will there ever be a Bluetooth version for iOS?


No, and you can thank Apple for this









Using serial communication requires an Apple authentication co-processor on the farbwerk board and you can be sure we will not spend a single penny for this $h!t.


----------



## Mega Man

another example of isuck

just like how apple has to use a different resistor value for the remote on headphones then .... everything else,

the "apple people" say it is to control and give good quality sound, but the truth is that they just dont care , apple just wants more money ( proof, the remote line has ZERO to do with the sound output of the headphones )


----------



## Z0eff

Just finished installing it into my case - Getting a BSOD on boot, or a BSOD when I plug in the USB header after windows loaded.

"BAD_POOL_HEADER"

I made sure it's properly connected on both ends and tried multiple USB headers on my motherboard. No luck. Am sort of out of ideas here...

EDIT: Some more things I've tried. Using an Internal USB hug (NZXT IU01), turning off legacy USB support in UEFI and disconnecting all other USB devices except for the keyboard.

EDIT2: Trying to get help over at AC's own forums but eh... what? It's telling me I have to activate my account but when I try to it says it's already activated.


----------



## pfarrey

Can someone confirm if that mod to make a d5 pwm pump work with aquaero 6 will work if the cable only has the green and blue cable. I have ek d5 pwm pumps and power is provided by separate molex connections.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pfarrey*
> 
> Can someone confirm if that mod to make a d5 pwm pump work with aquaero 6 will work if the cable only has the green and blue cable. I have ek d5 pwm pumps and power is provided by separate molex connections.


yes. All d5 pwm are like that, molex+green and blue cable PWM header.


----------



## pfarrey

The reason I ask is that the guide posted a while back shows a four pin connector with four cables connected. If the mod connects these four cables together then how will it work if you connect it to a connector which only has two of the four cables?


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pfarrey*
> 
> The reason I ask is that the guide posted a while back shows a four pin connector with four cables connected. If the mod connects these four cables together then how will it work if you connect it to a connector which only has two of the four cables?


Nope. There are no four cables on the guide. The header is the standard PWM 4 pin header but there is only 2 cables internally (the blue and green) just like all others d5 PWM. What you see there is diva mod (resistors/diode) on the PWM header not the cables.

http://www.overclock.net/t/1473190/pwm-d5-pump/10#post_21971680

pay special attention to this:

_With the PWM Aquaero, the solution is to add a little mod at the 4 pin plug that creates a 5V source using a resistor and Zener diode, from the Gnd and 12V pins, and then puts a pullup resistor from that 5V point to the PWM line.
_

so you put a resistor and zener diode using the ground and 12 v pins on the header that will connect to the Aquaero but the pump itself is not getting the 12 v and ground from the header but instead from the molex.


----------



## Z0eff

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Z0eff*
> 
> Just finished installing it into my case - Getting a BSOD on boot, or a BSOD when I plug in the USB header after windows loaded.
> 
> "BAD_POOL_HEADER"
> 
> I made sure it's properly connected on both ends and tried multiple USB headers on my motherboard. No luck. Am sort of out of ideas here...
> 
> EDIT: Some more things I've tried. Using an Internal USB hug (NZXT IU01), turning off legacy USB support in UEFI and disconnecting all other USB devices except for the keyboard.
> 
> EDIT2: Trying to get help over at AC's own forums but eh... what? It's telling me I have to activate my account but when I try to it says it's already activated.


Update on this, on a fresh install of windows it worked fine. My first brief glimps of the aquacomputer software. Seems interesting and off the beaten path.

Next I tried safe mode on my existing windows install, no luck. I've tried disabling everything I could and boot into safe mode... nope.









Starting to believe something is corrupted in my windows install. -_-


----------



## pfarrey

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Nope. There are no four cables on the guide. The header is the standard PWM 4 pin header but there is only 2 cables internally (the blue and green) just like all others d5 PWM. What you see there is diva mod (resistors/diode) on the PWM header not the cables.
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1473190/pwm-d5-pump/10#post_21971680
> 
> pay special attention to this:
> 
> _With the PWM Aquaero, the solution is to add a little mod at the 4 pin plug that creates a 5V source using a resistor and Zener diode, from the Gnd and 12V pins, and then puts a pullup resistor from that 5V point to the PWM line.
> _
> 
> so you put a resistor and zener diode using the ground and 12 v pins on the header that will connect to the Aquaero but the pump itself is not getting the 12 v and ground from the header but instead from the molex.


Thanks for your help. It looks like I will go and buy these components from a company called Maplin who stock these items







I am an absolute noob when it comes to electronics but I believe they have what I need;

5.1v zener diode (Maplin UK link
3.3k ohm resistor Maplin UK link
560 owm resistor Maplin UK link

I will report back if I have any further issues.


----------



## DanBr

Now the fun begins.








I finally powered up this new computer and i am so lost in Aquaero

1. I have 2 banks of PWM fans (one bank of 4 for each radiator).
they are set for PWM control but I cannot get bank 2 to slow down no matter what I select/slide etc.

On Fan 1 if i move the maximum power slider the fan rpm slows down but not on fan 2

Found a cable with blue wire broke so that fixed the fan issue

2. My temp sensors are all giving readouts, but the sensor on the inline temp probe is very close to the others which are ambient
Not under any load and I do have a lot of radiator for just a cpu and gpu (2 480's)

Need help setting up fan curves
What is a good LPH for flow. I am getting from 180 to 240 depending on pump speed.

I will add a picture of temp sensors. I am surprised they so close in readout

Dan


----------



## pfarrey

Oh my goodness, I am so frustrated and confused!

So i made the item that is shown in the link below. and still nothing happening in aquasuite or anything changing with the pump. I then realised that on the connector below it shows the green pwm signal cable in the fourth hole. So I swapped the blue and the green around and low and behold aquasuite now shows my d5 pumps RPM, however no amount of tinkering seems to get he pump above 2000rpm when the pump can run at 4850rpm. Is it likely that the pump was wired incorrectly? Or have I done something to make it do this unintentionally?

Now that I have an RPM showing on aquasuite I tried inserting the mod shown below but that makes no difference.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Party3an*
> 
> What exactly you not understand?
> 
> Ok I will try to explain
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Normal fan connector is 3 pin. and PWM fan connector is 4 pin. Pin is an metal contact that is inside connector holes.
> 
> PIN FUNCTION COLOR
> 1 Ground Black
> 2 +12 V Yellow
> 3 Sense (tach.) Signal Green ( on 3 pin fan is Tachometric Signal Yellow)
> 4 Control (PWM) Blue
> 
> 
> 
> For one D5 you will need.
> 
> 1 X 5.1V Zener diode,
> 1 X 1/2 W 560 Ohm Resistor (sometimes is called 1/2W 560E Resistor),
> 1 X 1/4W 3.3K (3300 Ohm) Resistor
> 
> 
> 
> Pin removal manual.
> 
> This photo shows how it works very clearly. The little blue arrow shows the "tang" or "barb" that holds the pin in place in the connector housing. You gently press down the tang with the end of a paperclip while simultaneously pulling on the wire and the wire will slide out. Do it gently so you don't crush the tang! When you push the pin back into the housing, the tang will pop into place and hold the wire in place, a lot like a fish hook.
> 
> 
> 
> Best Regards


----------



## Archea47

Pfarrey, is the divamod side of the cable plugging directly into the aquaero or into the pump? Not sure if that makes a difference but in Diva's example the side with the resistors and diode goes to the aquaero

Hopefully I'll make enough progress on my build to try my Diva-style Ycable this weekend and will report back


----------



## pfarrey

Yes its at the aquaero end


----------



## Mega Man

Have to ask. You did buy a pwm pump and not a vario right?


----------



## ozzy1925

guys i have a problem suddenly my flow rate drops to 205l/h from 300l/h and when i check aquasuite i see pumps rpm are 0 .After i restart i dont see my pumps on the aquasuite pumps list but flow still 205l/h and when i touch the pumps i can feel they are working.What should i do? the pumps are d5 with usb

edit i found out 1 of my pumps extension cable went bad ,chaning to a new cable fixed to issue


----------



## pfarrey

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> Have to ask. You did buy a pwm pump and not a vario right?


100% pwm. At least that's what I thought I bought and is what is on my delivery note. How could I tell the difference between variou and pwm?


----------



## BrettJSr72

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> No, and you can thank Apple for this
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Using serial communication requires an Apple authentication co-processor on the farbwerk board and you can be sure we will not spend a single penny for this $h!t.


Got it. Thanks.


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ozzy1925*
> 
> guys i have a problem suddenly my flow rate drops to 205l/h from 300l/h and when i check aquasuite i see pumps rpm are 0 .After i restart i dont see my pumps on the aquasuite pumps list but flow still 205l/h and when i touch the pumps i can feel they are working.What should i do? the pumps are d5 with usb
> 
> edit i found out 1 of my pumps extension cable went bad ,chaning to a new cable fixed to issue


Nice detective work, and getting it fixed. Sounds like the Aquabus link was failing and the pump reverting to USB priority for speed setting. The loss of aquabus also triggered pump alarm.


----------



## ozzy1925

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> Nice detective work, and getting it fixed. Sounds like the Aquabus link was failing and the pump reverting to USB priority for speed setting. The loss of aquabus also triggered pump alarm.


thanks , i am happy because i was about to tear down all my loop and yes 2 days ago i had alarm sounded as you mentioned.Now i understand thats because 1 pump lost connection for sometime and get back after


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pfarrey*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> Have to ask. You did buy a pwm pump and not a vario right?
> 
> 
> 
> 100% pwm. At least that's what I thought I bought and is what is on my delivery note. How could I tell the difference between variou and pwm?
Click to expand...

3 or 4 pin fan connector


----------



## DanBr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ozzy1925*
> 
> guys i have a problem suddenly my flow rate drops to 205l/h from 300l/h and when i check aquasuite i see pumps rpm are 0 .After i restart i dont see my pumps on the aquasuite pumps list but flow still 205l/h and when i touch the pumps i can feel they are working.What should i do? the pumps are d5 with usb
> 
> edit i found out 1 of my pumps extension cable went bad ,chaning to a new cable fixed to issue


What should I be looking for as a LPH.
I have 200 with the pumps slowed down a bit, but my temps are all about 25c idle
In fact the temp from my inline water fitting and one that is taped to the end of the radiator are less than 1 degree C over ambient

Is that normal?
I do have (2) 480 rads for just the cpu and one Gpu
I am not getting much of a delta change
I have 3 other Aquaero temp probes hooked (ambient)up and they all read about the same.
If i hold one between my fingers the temp goes right up so i think they are working

Fans are running about 1200 rpm
Need help making curves and such
dan


----------



## pfarrey

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> 3 or 4 pin fan connector


four pin


----------



## Mega Man

Its pwm. We need better pics then


----------



## zerophase

Can the Farbwerk control rgbw strips?


----------



## pfarrey

OK. Probably silly question but exactly what pictures would you like to see?


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zerophase*
> 
> Can the Farbwerk control rgbw strips?


Not like a controller designed for rgbw can.

You could use one color channel of one of the 4 channels to control the whites, but it wouldn't be all that good of a work around.

I guess if you had 3 of the channels with rgbw strips, you could use the rgb components of 4th channel for all the whites, but still only a fairly lame workaround.

I had thought about rgbw initially for the light panel in Diva's Dementia, but ultimately went with hi end, hi density rgb strip.

Darlene


----------



## zerophase

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Not like a controller designed for rgbw can.
> 
> You could use one color channel of one of the 4 channels to control the whites, but it wouldn't be all that good of a work around.
> 
> I guess if you had 3 of the channels with rgbw strips, you could use the rgb components of 4th channel for all the whites, but still only a fairly lame workaround.
> 
> I had thought about rgbw initially for the light panel in Diva's Dementia, but ultimately went with hi end, hi density rgb strip.
> 
> Darlene


Thanks so much. Which rgbs do you recommend? Is SIRS-E a good brand? I might still go with a farbwerk depending on what the other options are.


----------



## Mega Man

imo "name brand" led s are a rip, they all buy from china. they really are the same more or less, granted it is harder through the web.

i am lucky i can go into a shop with thousands of rolls of generic RBG LEDs and just touch and buy what i want when i go back to china


----------



## DanBr

I need a little help with the Farbwerk

I have one strip of RGB and I cannot get it to do anything different when a warning is triggered.
I have the box marked flash red, but it continues to just rotate colors as usual

For Normal operation. When I choose color preset for all 4 of the RGB outputs and I am on a blue color for example, the RGB might be greenish. If I rotate within the color wheel, the color does not seem to change.
thanks
dan

Is there a way to turn off the LED in Farwerk without unplugging something?


----------



## jlakai




----------



## Speng

Just got mine in the mail.

http://www.overclock.net/t/1572581/aquacomputer-qc-and-manufacturing-issues


----------



## jlakai

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Speng*
> 
> Just got mine in the mail.
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1572581/aquacomputer-qc-and-manufacturing-issues


Yep that's normal, I had to well chose to buy a replacement front panel because the plastic face plate kept popping out and I'm getting the same issue with the new one. The glue has a extremely low temperature melting point but your faceplate looks like its been pryed at from the top with a screwdriver or something,


----------



## Speng

Normal? Surely you're just being acid.

Also, you *bought* a replacement part to fix something that came broken from the manufacturer?









The whole front panel assembly looks to be a piss poor piece of engineering. The plexi should be held in place by the stainless face plate also and not be a tacked on cut-out like it currently is.


----------



## jlakai

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Speng*
> 
> Normal? Surely you're just being acid.
> 
> Also, you *bought* a replacement part to fix something that came broken from the manufacturer?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The whole front panel assembly looks to be a piss poor piece of engineering. The plexi should be held in place by the stainless face plate also and not be a tacked on cut-out like it currently is.


I'll take your choice of words as something lost in translation. I don't disagree with what you are saying about the faceplate design. I say normal because I had the same issues andI only bought the extra front panel because I thought it was the new one with Blue LEDS (Was listed as "New Design") but turned out not to be the case. GL enjoy the salt.


----------



## Anateus

How do I connect this thing to my Aquaero 6?
http://modmymods.com/media/catalog/product/cache/1/image/308x308/a86a6471cd126c7d06b2a398b3c8a4ae/1/0/1011224.jpg

I cant find any 4pin fem to 4pin fem connectors in europe (except aquatuning, but Im not paying 18 euro just to ship one cable).

Can I make my own with two 4pin female connectors if there is nothing I can buy?


----------



## Z0eff

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anateus*
> 
> How do I connect this thing to my Aquaero 6?
> http://modmymods.com/media/catalog/product/cache/1/image/308x308/a86a6471cd126c7d06b2a398b3c8a4ae/1/0/1011224.jpg
> 
> I cant find any 4pin fem to 4pin fem connectors in europe (except aquatuning, but Im not paying 18 euro just to ship one cable).
> 
> Can I make my own with two 4pin female connectors if there is nothing I can buy?


ModMyToys themselves sell such a cable, the store where you bought that should have it.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Speng*
> 
> Just got mine in the mail.
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1572581/aquacomputer-qc-and-manufacturing-issues


let me get this straight so rather then contact the manufacture for repair you whine on a forum ? sorry no pity here stuff happens give them a chance to fix it

it would of taken about 5 seconds to pm shoggy ...


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Speng*
> 
> Just got mine in the mail.
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1572581/aquacomputer-qc-and-manufacturing-issues
> 
> 
> 
> let me get this straight so rather then contact the manufacture for repair you whine on a forum ? sorry no pity here stuff happens give them a chance to fix it
> 
> it would of taken about 5 seconds to pm shoggy ...
Click to expand...

I have to take issue on this one . . . .

As you well know, I've brought up the same issues multiple times over the last year or two, and we keep getting the same line that it's been resolved, and that's quite obviously a lie at this point in time.

If someone took to whining on the forums a couple years ago, I could be sympathetic to an admonishment to give AC a chance to make it right first . . . . .

But that time has long since passed . . . . .

I'm pretty well convinced that whining on the forums each time someone receives a unit with the plastic popping out is the only possible way to exert any pressure on AC to actually do something to positively improve on that particular QC issue.

As it is, the Aquaero is the only unit of its kind, and so far ahead of anything anyone could bring out to compete with it, is virtually a license to ignore any QC issues, as no matter how nappy it's made, it'll still sell as well as if it was always perfectly made.

It is sad, but it is the reality.

Darlene


----------



## Speng

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> let me get this straight ...


Naw man, you're getting it all crooked assuming out of the blue that this was my first stop to complain and whine and try to make AC look bad. This, my friend, is doing you a favour without you even realizing it.

Well, eventually ... maybe.


----------



## Mega Man

As much as I understand it divas point had Shoggy ever not made it right? With me it had only taken a pm and with in a few days the part is in the mail. And I have not ever had to complain about the replacement.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> As much as I understand it divas point had Shoggy ever not made it right? With me it had only taken a pm and with in a few days the part is in the mail. And I have not ever had to complain about the replacement.


My point isn't about whether they made it right, or even how quickly they did it . . . .

It's about lying to us when they said they fixed the problem over a year ago . . .

Every time they make it right by sending out replacement panels, it raises the price we pay for the next Aquaero we buy.

BTW, did you have to pay for shipping on the replacement bits, or did AC cover that . . . not all of us live where we can be shipped to easily.

Darlene


----------



## Anateus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> My point isn't about whether they made it right, or even how quickly they did it . . . .
> 
> It's about lying to us when they said they fixed the problem over a year ago . . .
> 
> Every time they make it right by sending out replacement panels, it raises the price we pay for the next Aquaero we buy.
> 
> BTW, did you have to pay for shipping on the replacement bits, or did AC cover that . . . not all of us live where we can be shipped to easily.
> 
> Darlene


What if they fixed it, but he got his AQ from a shop that had stock from more than a year ago? Those things dont sell that often.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anateus*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> My point isn't about whether they made it right, or even how quickly they did it . . . .
> 
> It's about lying to us when they said they fixed the problem over a year ago . . .
> 
> Every time they make it right by sending out replacement panels, it raises the price we pay for the next Aquaero we buy.
> 
> BTW, did you have to pay for shipping on the replacement bits, or did AC cover that . . . not all of us live where we can be shipped to easily.
> 
> Darlene
> 
> 
> 
> What if they fixed it, but he got his AQ from a shop that had stock from more than a year ago? Those things dont sell that often.
Click to expand...

They do sell that fast, just look at how fast PPCs and previously FCPU, go thru stock . . . . the probability that he got one that's over a year since manufacture is just absurd.

Add in the fact that we're still seeing guys here with the same issues as well, shows you're reaching for straws that are not there.

D.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> They do sell that fast, just look at how fast PPCs and previously FCPU, go thru stock . . . . the probability that he got one that's over a year since manufacture is just absurd.
> 
> Add in the fact that we're still seeing guys here with the same issues as well, shows you're reaching for straws that are not there.
> 
> D.


Yep. Last one I got directly from Aqua 3 or 4 months ago. Aqua don't keep huge stocks of it and still show the same issues... Have to take out the plastic cover and sand it down myself to fit properly....


----------



## Speng

Conversation held 09062015

me: "Are you guys really on the ball with QC at your manufacturing partner?"

shoggy: "There is no manufacturing partner. We produce these devices on our own. This problem has been addressed several weeks ago by changing the type of glue."

Pertinent for the context might also be that the retailer (HighFlow, NL) had to be contacted since the order didn't ship and they replied back that they were waiting for new stock from AC before they could ship. It took them another week and the order finally shipped.

Oh well, I ll get my replacement part and this will be water under the bridges. The real concern however is AC themselves if they keep this up.


----------



## Jflisk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> I have to take issue on this one . . . .
> 
> As you well know, I've brought up the same issues multiple times over the last year or two, and we keep getting the same line that it's been resolved, and that's quite obviously a lie at this point in time.
> 
> If someone took to whining on the forums a couple years ago, I could be sympathetic to an admonishment to give AC a chance to make it right first . . . . .
> 
> But that time has long since passed . . . . .
> 
> I'm pretty well convinced that whining on the forums each time someone receives a unit with the plastic popping out is the only possible way to exert any pressure on AC to actually do something to positively improve on that particular QC issue.
> 
> As it is, the Aquaero is the only unit of its kind, and so far ahead of anything anyone could bring out to compete with it, is virtually a license to ignore any QC issues, as no matter how nappy it's made, it'll still sell as well as if it was always perfectly made.
> 
> It is sad, but it is the reality.
> 
> Darlene


Darlene
There is a aquatuning rep on here somewhere. Contact them and let them know they are the main outlet over seas for aquacomputer they may be able to help let them know there's a problem if shoggy(hope I spelled that right) does not acknowledge the problem. Thanks









AT-Pascal is the reps name

-JD


----------



## DerComissar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> My point isn't about whether they made it right, or even how quickly they did it . . . .
> 
> It's about lying to us when they said they fixed the problem over a year ago . . .
> 
> Every time they make it right by sending out replacement panels, it raises the price we pay for the next Aquaero we buy.
> 
> BTW, did you have to pay for shipping on the replacement bits, or did AC cover that . . . not all of us live where we can be shipped to easily.
> 
> Darlene


Rep+
Still undecided whether to risk buying an Aquaero, or not.


----------



## electro2u

So I got an MPS400... I can't get it to work over Aquabus! Works fine with USB cable installed.

I've tried it in Aquabus Low and high... I'm using a 3 pin cable is that the problem? That's what it came with 

I don't have a 4pin female to 4pin female but I can make one. I guess I'll try that.

Another thing. Why isn't there an info page for the MPS? I probably just haven't figured it all out yet, but I thought I would be able to display the Flow rate on the unit's screen.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> So I got an MPS400... I can't get it to work over Aquabus! Works fine with USB cable installed.
> 
> I've tried it in Aquabus Low and high... I'm using a 3 pin cable is that the problem? That's what it came with
> 
> I don't have a 4pin female to 4pin female but I can make one. I guess I'll try that.
> 
> Another thing. Why isn't there an info page for the MPS? I probably just haven't figured it all out yet, but I thought I would be able to display the Flow rate on the unit's screen.


connect it using both aquabus and usb cables. Aquabus should be the high port. You should now see a MPS device. Then go to the settings and make priority Aquabus instead of USB. Now you can disconect the USB and it should appear within the Aquaero.

pay attention to the polarity of the usb cable (black is ground and red is current). Also never disconect the cable USB with the unit with power on. Shut down the system and take the power cord out of the PSU.


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> So I got an MPS400... I can't get it to work over Aquabus! Works fine with USB cable installed.
> 
> I've tried it in Aquabus Low and high... I'm using a 3 pin cable is that the problem? That's what it came with
> 
> I don't have a 4pin female to 4pin female but I can make one. I guess I'll try that.
> 
> Another thing. Why isn't there an info page for the MPS? I probably just haven't figured it all out yet, but I thought I would be able to display the Flow rate on the unit's screen.


You have to add a page for the MPS flow meter. By default it uses the mechanical model from memory.


----------



## InfoSeeker

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> So I got an MPS400... I can't get it to work over Aquabus! Works fine with USB cable installed.
> 
> I've tried it in Aquabus Low and high... I'm using a 3 pin cable is that the problem? That's what it came with
> 
> I don't have a 4pin female to 4pin female but I can make one. I guess I'll try that.
> 
> Another thing. Why isn't there an info page for the MPS? I probably just haven't figured it all out yet, but I thought I would be able to display the Flow rate on the unit's screen.


As Gabrielzm said, plus YES, the aquabus cable must be 4 pin for the Flow Sensor. The 4th pin provides power to the MPS.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DerComissar*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> My point isn't about whether they made it right, or even how quickly they did it . . . .
> 
> It's about lying to us when they said they fixed the problem over a year ago . . .
> 
> Every time they make it right by sending out replacement panels, it raises the price we pay for the next Aquaero we buy.
> 
> BTW, did you have to pay for shipping on the replacement bits, or did AC cover that . . . not all of us live where we can be shipped to easily.
> 
> Darlene
> 
> 
> 
> Rep+
> Still undecided whether to risk buying an Aquaero, or not.
Click to expand...

It's still the best of the best you can get . . . . .

While they have an issue with the plastic face panels . . . . the function and software is so far ahead of anything else, don't let the little things dissuade you from purchase.

D.


----------



## jlakai

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> As much as I understand it divas point had Shoggy ever not made it right? With me it had only taken a pm and with in a few days the part is in the mail. And I have not ever had to complain about the replacement.


Here in lies the problem. While Shoggy seems to be on top of things, this issue isn't about the customer service which seems to be excellent. This is about an issue with the product albeit more cosmetic than with functionality, it is just as important being that aesthetics more often than not is the reason for this industry in the first place. Given the number of complaints people have made publicly, it makes you wonder hjow many faceplates were exchanged under the radar ? I personally have problems with two of them, having bought an extra entire front replacement as well as the aluminum frame replacement the issue remains. No I haven't contacted AQ for a replacement, Nor have I complained. @Speng very well might be doing us a favor by bringing up this issue to the forefront hopefully for the benefit to AC and future customers so that this becomes a non-issue.


----------



## Dagamus NM

I think part of the problem with the front plate on the aquaero is that the unit comes assembled. Where the sides mount to the aquaero is with a shared bolt to the front face. If you look at how the aquaero sits in the box it does not have much protection for the side arms. They don't need much force applied as they act as levers to put stress on the front plate.

While it appears that there are still issues with the adhesive, the bending of the face could be averted by either letting the end user assemble it or change the packaging.


----------



## Speng

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jlakai*
> 
> ... This is about an issue with the product albeit more cosmetic than with functionality ...


I would hardly call the front panel display issue with the unit I received cosmetic. A cosmetic damage is everything else that can happen to a unit that wont break it's ability to operate reliably and as intended ... dents, discoloration, scratches etc.

My unit completely lacks a functional display.


----------



## Mega Man

That does not sound like a reoccurring problem though


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *InfoSeeker*
> 
> As Gabrielzm said, plus YES, the aquabus cable must be 4 pin for the Flow Sensor. The 4th pin provides power to the MPS.


^^true. Forgot about that. To use the 3 pin cable that comes in the box for the aquabus you need to use the USB cable too to provide the power to the MPS.


----------



## Dagamus NM

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> That does not sound like a reoccurring problem though


His is an extreme case, but all three of mine have had this issue. I got one replaced quickly by Shoggy earlier this year, some time between February and April. One I didn't bother to ask for replacement as I will replace it with a black faceplate whenever they come into stock. I used some crazy glue to hold it back on until I get the black plate and it looks terrible.

My AQ6 Pro had the clear acrylic from fall off too but it seems to be holding on ok. The replacement Shoggy sent me is perfect but when I was screwing it into the 5.25 bay I noticed that once the screw got tight enough that the front started to flex and the plastic plate started to separate. I backed the screw off a bit and pushed the plastic back in for a second and it has been fine since.

The one the poster is showing has been excessively bent and the adhesive was applied in a rather sloppy manner.

The point on the QC is valid considering the price of the Aquacomputer product line. Top shelf stuff but a bit fragile. I got two expensive rads last week and both had damage that must have happened during assembly. One was completely bent inside a box that was not opened or tampered with and was perfectly intact. I discussed it with Shoggy, I will be able to fix it but for such an expensive rad I shouldn't have to do this. It seems that shipping this stuff across the world is the weak point. The packaging does not appear to be up to be task.

I will assume the rads are isolated as I have several others from Aquacomputer and while all have had a bit of cosmetic damage to the fins, it has all been readily fixable.

The issues with the Aquaeros seems persistent.


----------



## electro2u

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> ^^true. Forgot about that. To use the 3 pin cable that comes in the box for the aquabus you need to use the USB cable too to provide the power to the MPS.


Thanks guys... nothing about this in the instruction manual.


----------



## Ironsmack

Now that I think about it, Aquaero need to work on their packaging. I have 3 LT's that came with some bubble wrap around it, and the cables and manual stuffed in it.

And so does my PA2's. Luckily, haven't had any problems with my units (not even bent pins).

There's no secure packaging. Even the box that came with it, seems very flimsy.

However, just as they improve their product, they need to work on improving packaging their products (at least, the 2 I mentioned)


----------



## jlakai

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dagamus NM*
> 
> The issues with the Aquaeros seems persistent.


I think the word you are looking for is "consistent".


----------



## Dagamus NM

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jlakai*
> 
> I think the word you are looking for is "consistent".


That implies that Aquacomputer has done nothing at all to address this and that what we saw over a year ago is in now way different than what we see today.

I believe that they have tried to figure out what adhesives may alleviate the problems end users are seeing yet the problem continues, or persists if you will.

I do quality management for a living, I understand how difficult it can be to get at the root of a problem such as this.

What percentage of aquaeros sold have this issue? Would it be more inconvenient to the entire customer base to assemble these themselves and still have some twist the front until the plastic pops off or have some get returned/replacement faces sent out? Math I don't have the data to draw conclusions from.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dagamus NM*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *jlakai*
> 
> I think the word you are looking for is "consistent".
> 
> 
> 
> That implies that Aquacomputer has done nothing at all to address this and that what we saw over a year ago is in now way different than what we see today.
> 
> *I believe that they have tried to figure out what adhesives may alleviate the problems end users are seeing yet the problem continues, or persists if you will.
> *
> I do quality management for a living, I understand how difficult it can be to get at the root of a problem such as this.
> 
> What percentage of aquaeros sold have this issue? Would it be more inconvenient to the entire customer base to assemble these themselves and still have some twist the front until the plastic pops off or have some get returned/replacement faces sent out? Math I don't have the data to draw conclusions from.
Click to expand...

They mentioned a long while back that they were going to use a different adhesive . . . .

And I pointed out that the best adhesive they can find won't make up for the fact that all too many units have a plastic that's too long, or a cutout for it that's too short, and as long as they continue to try putting a watermelon up a canary's butt, there's going to be an issue.

The whole issue revolves around the length the plastic is cut, and the length of the cutout in the metal faceplate . . . . half a mm of interference, or even a bit less, and the plastic bows out and pops off.

If it's too difficult to solve that QC issue in a cost effective manner, I'd rather they just come clean and own up to it. . . . . I've gotten really good at sanding the round end of the plastic to where it drops in like it should.

Darlene


----------



## fast_fate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> They mentioned a long while back that they were going to use a different adhesive . . . .
> 
> And I pointed out that the best adhesive they can find won't make up for the fact that all too many units have a plastic that's too long, or a cutout for it that's too short, *and as long as they continue to try putting a watermelon up a canary's butt, there's going to be an issue*.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> The whole issue revolves around the length the plastic is cut, and the length of the cutout in the metal faceplate . . . . half a mm of interference, or even a bit less, and the plastic bows out and pops off.
> 
> If it's too difficult to solve that QC issue in a cost effective manner, I'd rather they just come clean and own up to it. . . . . I've gotten really good at sanding the round end of the plastic to where it drops in like it should.
> 
> 
> 
> Darlene


Another classic quotable from D - hilarious








Thank You









The front screen on my latest XT with blue LEDs is the worst I have had for front panel warpage.
BUT
It got a whole lot worse when I put the black face-plate on.
Haven't attempted to fix it yet, as it is in a testing unit.
If it was purchased for a build, I would definitely be annoyed enough to contact customer support.
I suspect that many, just don't bother with cs and accept the unit it the state that it is, and like me were deprived of the happy moment that comes with unboxing new hardware, and instead are left with disappointment.


----------



## sinnedone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> They mentioned a long while back that they were going to use a different adhesive . . . .
> 
> And I pointed out that the best adhesive they can find won't make up for the fact that all too many units have a plastic that's too long, or a cutout for it that's too short, and a*s long as they continue to try putting a watermelon up a canary's butt*, there's going to be an issue.
> 
> The whole issue revolves around the length the plastic is cut, and the length of the cutout in the metal faceplate . . . . half a mm of interference, or even a bit less, and the plastic bows out and pops off.
> 
> If it's too difficult to solve that QC issue in a cost effective manner, I'd rather they just come clean and own up to it. . . . . I've gotten really good at sanding the round end of the plastic to where it drops in like it should.
> 
> Darlene


I lol'd

Thats a new one for mw to tell people, might have to use it.


----------



## DanBr

I might be reinstalling windows, How do I not loose my Aquasuite settings and fan curves etc.
Is it also saved in the Aquaero 6XT or is it saved on the hard drive
Can't seem to find it.
Thanks
Dan


----------



## InfoSeeker

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DanBr*
> 
> I might be reinstalling windows, How do I not loose my Aquasuite settings and fan curves etc.
> Is it also saved in the Aquaero 6XT or is it saved on the hard drive
> Can't seem to find it.
> Thanks
> Dan


I believe some aquaero info is saved on the aquaero (save to device by clicking the disk icon on the tab).

Other settings, aquasuite & exported/saved display pages, are saved in C:\ProgramData\aquasuite-data\.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fast_fate*
> 
> Another classic quotable from D - hilarious
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thank You
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The front screen on my latest XT with blue LEDs is the worst I have had for front panel warpage.
> BUT
> It got a whole lot worse when I put the black face-plate on.
> Haven't attempted to fix it yet, as it is in a testing unit.
> If it was purchased for a build, I would definitely be annoyed enough to contact customer support.
> I suspect that many, just don't bother with cs and accept the unit it the state that it is, and like me were deprived of the happy moment that comes with unboxing new hardware, and instead are left with disappointment.


Yep...The watermelon just made my day.

But seriously. It would be far better if a little change in design was done where the plastic would be receded in the faceplate and accordingly hold it in place firmly with no need to glue. Tolerances would not be a huge problem then.


----------



## electro2u

Anyone have an MPS 400 calibration for BP 16mm/13mm hardline fittings? Currently using one for 3/4 1/2 inch compression fittings I found. Says I'm getting ~135Lph with 2 D5varios both at setting 1. Should I consider that close enough?


----------



## DanBr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *InfoSeeker*
> 
> I believe some aquaero info is saved on the aquaero (save to device by clicking the disk icon on the tab).
> 
> Other settings, aquasuite & exported/saved display pages, are saved in C:\ProgramData\aquasuite-data\.


Thanks
Dan


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> Anyone have an MPS 400 calibration for BP 16mm/13mm hardline fittings? Currently using one for 3/4 1/2 inch compression fittings I found. Says I'm getting ~135Lph with 2 D5varios both at setting 1. Should I consider that close enough?


I don't have 12mm ID tube to make up a cal for you at the moment, but no one can tell you how accurate your figures are because it depends far more on the loop than the fittings.


----------



## Archea47

First sights of my Aquaero:


----------



## delerious

My Aquaero 6XT just arrived, with passive heatsink and black faceplate.


----------



## Kry0g3nic

Greetings everyone. I was hoping to get a little input from some of the knowledgeable folks here about an issue I'm having. I have an Aquaero 6 Pro with the Passive heat sink and 2 flow sensors. I run 7 Be Quiet Silent wings 120mm fans using 2 5 way PCB splitters. Everything was working great until I changed my pumps and added a few new things (not Aquaero related). Now, I have power on fan header 1 and can even set it to be used as a flow sensor header but the rest are dead. 2 thru 4 will not power anything no matter what I do. I have set them up every way possible and used every controller option and still nothing. Not to mention I get an error in my event log every time I restart the Aquaero that says fan output 2, 3, and 4 has over voltage and yet nothing is plugged in to them. I have did a hard reset and even reflashed the firmware. I am at a loss. I think this may be an RMA issue unless someone has some advice as to what may be causing the issue. Thanks in advance to anyone who replies.


----------



## Mega Man

Is it possible you plugged something in incorrectly? I killed one of mine this way with similar results


----------



## TViper04

Have you tried this from the Aquaero manual?

"If an output current of 3 A is exceeded, the out-put will be permanently disabled. To reactivate the output, the aquaero (or the complete PC) has to be disconnected from power for a short period of time."


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TViper04*
> 
> Have you tried this from the Aquaero manual?
> 
> "If an output current of 3 A is exceeded, the out-put will be permanently disabled. To reactivate the output, the aquaero (or the complete PC) has to be disconnected from power for a short period of time."


The AQ6 has overcurrent protection built in but the Aq5 doesn't

When the system is showing overcurrents with nothing plugged in its RMA time. Mine did the same thing, had to get a new one.


----------



## TViper04

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> The AQ6 has overcurrent protection built in but the Aq5 doesn't
> 
> When the system is showing overcurrents with nothing plugged in its RMA time. Mine did the same thing, had to get a new one.


The AQ6 is what he said he has so I hope thats all he needs to do, RMAs are a pain.


----------



## mandrix

I don't keep up here any more and this may have been brought up.

When installing an OS for the Z170 chipset, it might serve you to keep your Aquaero's USB unplugged until you finish installing the OS. I had a world of problems until I unplugged the USB from my two Aquaero's until Windows was fully installed, updated, etc.
This was with an Asus M8 Hero. After Windows 7 Pro x64 was installed and updated, I was able to plug my Aquaero's back in and restore my settings and all was good again.

HTH someone.


----------



## Shoggy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DanBr*
> 
> I need a little help with the Farbwerk
> 
> I have one strip of RGB and I cannot get it to do anything different when a warning is triggered.
> I have the box marked flash red, but it continues to just rotate colors as usual
> 
> For Normal operation. When I choose color preset for all 4 of the RGB outputs and I am on a blue color for example, the RGB might be greenish. If I rotate within the color wheel, the color does not seem to change.
> thanks
> dan
> 
> Is there a way to turn off the LED in Farwerk without unplugging something?


The alarm option to flash the LED red is not meant for thr RGB LED strips. This setting only affects the RGB LED port of the aquaero where you can connect a single RGB LED. The LED strips can not flash in case of an alarm but you can assign a controller to it where at a specific temperature color X should be shown. It might be even better to copy your current profile and set the LEDs the way you want them for an alarm in the second profile. Then you can simply configure an alarm in the first profile that will switch to the second profile when it is triggered.

For your problem with the color wheel it might be helpful to have some screenshot of your settings. Also the outputs tab from the aquaero is important here - maybe the farbwerk outputs are not assigned correctly.

The LED on the farbwerk controller can not be turned off. You can seal it with tape or unsolder it.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jlakai*
> 
> I had to well chose to buy a replacement front panel


No idea why you have bought one instead of getting in touch with us to receive a free replacement.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Every time they make it right by sending out replacement panels, it raises the price we pay for the next Aquaero we buy.
> 
> BTW, did you have to pay for shipping on the replacement bits, or did AC cover that . . . not all of us live where we can be shipped to easily.


The price of the aquaero has not changed at all so far. The aquaero 5 has become even lower in price by time even though the XT variant uses exactly the same front parts. Also the aquaero 7 (or whatever it will be called) will not become a single penny more expensive because of any problems from the previous series. Seriously , for no product ever we have looked back to the RMA quote and tried to compensate the "loss" by making a successor higher in price. The price is always based on our real costs and how much development effort was put into it.

A replacement cover is always sent free of charge and you also do not have to pay for the shipping costs of course. That thing easily fits into a padded envelope and can be sent around the globe for a small price.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Archea47*
> 
> First sights of my Aquaero:


There is no reason to censor the firmware or bootloader version. It is the same for all of us and also the serial number is useless for someone else









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kry0g3nic*
> 
> Greetings everyone. I was hoping to get a little input from some of the knowledgeable folks here about an issue I'm having. I have an Aquaero 6 Pro with the Passive heat sink and 2 flow sensors. I run 7 Be Quiet Silent wings 120mm fans using 2 5 way PCB splitters. *Everything was working great until I changed* my pumps and added a few new things (*not Aquaero related*). Now, I have power on fan header 1 and can even set it to be used as a flow sensor header but the rest are dead. 2 thru 4 will not power anything no matter what I do. I have set them up every way possible and used every controller option and still nothing. Not to mention I get an error in my event log every time I restart the Aquaero that says fan output 2, 3, and 4 has over voltage and yet nothing is plugged in to them. I have did a hard reset and even reflashed the firmware. I am at a loss. I think this may be an RMA issue unless someone has some advice as to what may be causing the issue. Thanks in advance to anyone who replies.


It worked till I... - the story of most RMAs







The first thing I would try is to remove the passive heatsink. Maybe it makes contact somewhere and causes a short circuit. At least it would also match the error messages. In general I would take a closer look at the board if you can see something strange.

The aquaero features several protection circuits so this message does not come up just for fun - there is a reason. The channels will not work as long as the device detects a short circuit. It is its job to cut the power to these channels in this case. Having three channels showing the same problem could be a damaged monitoring chip that checks the voltage, amperage etc. for all channels.

It will be very likely that you will have to send in the device. The naked board alone in a padded envelope for example would be enough (saves a lot of shipping costs).

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> The AQ6 has overcurrent protection built in but the Aq5 doesn't


The aquaero 5 uses the same basic protection circuits as the aquaero 6. The aquaero 6 series is a bit more advanced here since there are also some features integrated directly into the voltage controllers that can trigger problems also much faster.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mandrix*
> 
> When installing an OS for the Z170 chipset, it might serve you to keep your Aquaero's USB unplugged until you finish installing the OS. I had a world of problems until I unplugged the USB from my two Aquaero's until Windows was fully installed, updated, etc.
> This was with an Asus M8 Hero. After Windows 7 Pro x64 was installed and updated, I was able to plug my Aquaero's back in and restore my settings and all was good again.


Could be a problem with the fact that the aquaero also registers as keyboard and mouse to the system. I have seen it before that for example some BIOS menus do not work correctly when two keyboards or mice are connected. Quite often that was fixed by an BIOS update at some point.


----------



## IT Diva

Thanks Shoggy for all the input . . . .
















Darlene


----------



## ppkstat

Hello,

I just received an aquaero 5 LT, everything good so far. Do you guys have any advice where to place the 'air' sensor when setting up an air/water delta sensor? I thought that the best place would be outside the case through the ventilation holes in the back, but the sensor cables are not long enough.

If at the back of the case is a good spot can't I just cut the wires and solder an extension to them (with a common cable that is)?


----------



## Mega Man

I would put it in intake but it is personal pref. Yes you can extend it


----------



## ppkstat

Thanks for the reply..

Where in intake in particular? Away for the case or in front of the fans? In the second case wouldn't increased airflow from the fans lower the temperature of the sensor? I thought the idea was to have a sensor that records ambient temperature not the temperature of the air when entering the case. I might have it completely wrong though.


----------



## Mega Man

Temp entering a case is (or should be )ambient.

Having wind blow on a surface does not make it cooler wind.

I think You are thinking about wet bulb temp. However 75 deg air blowing on a thermistor is 75 deg temp


----------



## ppkstat

I googled 'wet bulb temp'. I swear I tried but the thermodynamics were too much for me







There is a space in the front of my case between the front intake fans and the case filters. I'll mount it there.


----------



## DanBr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> The alarm option to flash the LED red is not meant for thr RGB LED strips. This setting only affects the RGB LED port of the aquaero where you can connect a single RGB LED. The LED strips can not flash in case of an alarm but you can assign a controller to it where at a specific temperature color X should be shown. It might be even better to copy your current profile and set the LEDs the way you want them for an alarm in the second profile. Then you can simply configure an alarm in the first profile that will switch to the second profile when it is triggered.
> 
> For your problem with the color wheel it might be helpful to have some screenshot of your settings. Also the outputs tab from the aquaero is important here - maybe the farbwerk outputs are not assigned correctly.
> 
> The LED on the farbwerk controller can not be turned off. You can seal it with tape or unsolder it.


Thanks, had not been back for a while.
I did not mean to turn off the LED on the Farbwerk, I meant the whole RGB strip.

Here are two screen shots of my setup. the first is from within the Farbwerk/controller. All 4 are exactly the same as they were when I first booted up.


I tried changing from rotating to color preset and the colors still rotate

Here is the controller page from Aquasuite. I don't know why I only have one color, red enabled here. I don't remember doing anything color related on this page. Should I enable all the rest? And is this where I would change from rotating to any other choice


Thanks
Dan


----------



## 47 Knucklehead

There are two 4-pin connectors on it that say Aquabus on the Farbwerk. Since I'm at work and I haven't checked on it with a meter, does this mean that I can run a 4-pin cable from the Aquaero 6 to one of them and a second 4-pin cable to another Aquabus device (like the D5 pump)? Basically instead of using a 'Y' cable, just use the Ferbwerk as the 'Y'?


----------



## Mega Man

Correct


----------



## 47 Knucklehead

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> Correct


Awesome, thanks.

I guess when I get home tonight, I have 2 new custom cables to make ... since my custom 'Y' cable is acting flaky.


----------



## 47 Knucklehead

With regards to Aquasuite 2015-6, is anyone else noticing any "sluggishness" when moving the mouse around? Everything updates fine, but when I try to make changes, things are "choppy" when the mouse moves. I tried it running the program normal and in Administrator mode. I'm running Windows 10. It never seemed to do it with Windows 8.1


----------



## Shoggy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DanBr*
> 
> I tried changing from rotating to color preset and the colors still rotate


It seems you have not changed the mode for the channels. When you connect the farbwerk via USB you have to change the mode of each channel to be controlled from an external source which is the aquaero in your case. Without this setting the aquaero will be able to detect the farbwerk but will not be able to control it.


----------



## Z0eff

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *47 Knucklehead*
> 
> With regards to Aquasuite 2015-6, is anyone else noticing any "sluggishness" when moving the mouse around? Everything updates fine, but when I try to make changes, things are "choppy" when the mouse moves. I tried it running the program normal and in Administrator mode. I'm running Windows 10. It never seemed to do it with Windows 8.1


I've been experiencing this problem both in 8.1 and 10. It's never been any other way for me...


----------



## DanBr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> It seems you have not changed the mode for the channels. When you connect the farbwerk via USB you have to change the mode of each channel to be controlled from an external source which is the aquaero in your case. Without this setting the aquaero will be able to detect the farbwerk but will not be able to control it.


When I selected RGB Output 3 from the Farbwerk/controller and chose external source it actually turned the RGB strip off.
I tried Get Data from RGB Output 3 but RGB strip was still off
Not sure what to do next

Changing on RGB Outputs 1,2,4 did nothing as I only have one RGB strip plugged in.

On the Aquaero/Controller page it says RGB controller 1. I could change that to RGB 3 by just deleting the 1 and putting in a 3, but not sure if that does anything. There is no drop down to pick # 3

On the Aquaero/Controller page there is a big red X at the right hand lower corner of the LED Controller, if I click on it I am not sure how to get the LED controller back on the Aquaero/Controller page

Dan


----------



## InfoSeeker

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Z0eff*
> 
> I've been experiencing this problem both in 8.1 and 10. It's never been any other way for me...


I am using win10/64 without sluggish mouse syndrome, nor did I see it in win8.1/64.

If you use HWiNFO with 'EC Support' enabled, you may experience sluggishness at times.


----------



## InfoSeeker

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DanBr*
> 
> On the Aquaero/Controller page there is a big red X at the right hand lower corner of the LED Controller, if I click on it I am not sure how to get the LED controller back on the Aquaero/Controller page
> 
> Dan


To add a controller click on the Plus sign in the upper right of the screen, then select 'LED Controller' from the drop-down box.


----------



## Shoggy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DanBr*
> 
> Not sure what to do next


I guess you already did this but just to be sure. Connect the farbwerk via USB and change the mode of the channel that you want to control to be controlled from an external source:



For the next steps the farbwerk must be connected via aquabus to the aquaero. Go to the outputs tab of the aquaero, open the box of the channel that you want to control and tell the aquaero to use it:



In the controllers tab, click the upper right plus icon to add a new controller. Select the LED controller for this example. Assign the colors red (R), green (G) and blue (B) of the farbwerks first channel to the three output boxes by clicking their plus icons. Pick a color and the strip should glow correctly:


----------



## DanBr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> I guess you already did this but just to be sure. Connect the farbwerk via USB and change the mode of the channel that you want to control to be controlled from an external source:
> 
> 
> 
> For the next steps the farbwerk must be connected via aquabus to the aquaero. Go to the outputs tab of the aquaero, open the box of the channel that you want to control and tell the aquaero to use it:
> 
> 
> 
> In the controllers tab, click the upper right plus icon to add a new controller. Select the LED controller for this example. Assign the colors red (R), green (G) and blue (B) of the farbwerks first channel to the three output boxes by clicking their plus icons. Pick a color and the strip should glow correctly:


Let me try those steps, thanks
But while I was waiting I was able to get the Farbwerk to work with color preset. I realized that I only had RGB output 3 and when I changed that to preset I was able to move the color wheel around and get a fixed color.

This is what I see under outputs.


I think I only have it connected via USB, but I am not sure why I then see it under the Aquaero controller page.


I used a "Y" cable and have the pump and MPS connected

When I do switch over to External controller from the RGB Output 3 from the Farbwerk/controller tab it turns the RGB off
is that safe and is that the only way to turn off the RGB if I wanted to.


----------



## Shoggy

Your farbwerk is not connected to the aquaero. The settings in the outputs are just for the outputs of the aquaero itself. The farbwerk would have its own box as you can see in my screenshot.

Of course you can still use a RGB LED controller without having a farbwerk connected to the aquaero. It is only a type of controller that works independent from the assigned outputs. Therefore it is always present. Normally you would use it for the RGB LED header of the aquaero when no farbwerk is connected.


----------



## DanBr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *InfoSeeker*
> 
> To add a controller click on the Plus sign in the upper right of the screen, then select 'LED Controller' from the drop-down box.


I try adding an LED controller and I keep getting RGB controller 1, sometimes 2
But from my Farbwerk tab, the only one that allows me any control is RGB output 3
Should I change the name in the Aquaero controller tab (on the LED controller) to RGB controller 3.
Whatever name it has the red, blue, green values keep changing so it must be doing something

I now have a fixed color from within the Farbwerk controller, but on the Aquaero controller page the values change as if it is rotating and it is not

I think I have control from the Farbwerk tab. I used a template to get my page and it must have had a LED controller on it. I did not add it as i was very wary about doing things as I learn
dan


----------



## DanBr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> Your farbwerk is not connected to the aquaero. The settings in the outputs are just for the outputs of the aquaero itself. The farbwerk would have its own box as you can see in my screenshot.
> 
> Of course you can still use a RGB LED controller without having a farbwerk connected to the aquaero. It is only a type of controller that works independent from the assigned outputs. Therefore it is always present. Normally you would use it for the RGB LED header of the aquaero when no farbwerk is connected.


How about the question of turning off the RGB strip, Is it safe to click on external control (that turns it off) or is there another way.

And finally, if I am not connected to the Aquaero, why do I see rotating color values on the LED controller under the Aquaero/contoller tab

Forget the part about rotating values, I now see that it stops since I correctly assigned color preset under the Farbwerk tab

When you catch your breath, in a day or so I would like to ask about some confusion on the pump tabs









Dan


----------



## 47 Knucklehead

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *InfoSeeker*
> 
> I am using win10/64 without sluggish mouse syndrome, nor did I see it in win8.1/64.
> 
> If you use HWiNFO with 'EC Support' enabled, you may experience sluggishness at times.


Sadly I'm not using HWiNFO at all and still have the lag.


----------



## Shoggy

The first thing you should check is the systems tab with the box that list all connected aquabus devices. As said, it seems that your farbwerk is not even connected to the aquaero. Of course in this case you can not control it.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DanBr*
> 
> How about the question of turning off the RGB strip, Is it safe to click on external control (that turns it off) or is there another way.
> 
> And finally, if I am not connected to the Aquaero, why do I see rotating color values on the LED controller under the Aquaero/contoller tab??


The LED strip will turn off when you allow the external control because so far you have not assigned any action to it. As said, the color wheel has nothing to do with the farbwerk in general. It is always available because the aquaero has also an integrated RGB port which you can control from this setting.

In your screenshot the RGB LED controller IS also assigned to the internal RGB LED output of the aquaero. As long as you do not allow the external control in the farbwerk settings (USB), you will not be able to change these settings and to assign the farbwerk outputs to this color wheel.


----------



## Archea47

A little except from my build log about playing with Aquasuite and my Aquaero last night:


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



So I was setting up the Aquaero last night, set an alarm to cycle the buzzer at 15* delta T (difference between water and air temperature). Then I was creating a rule to shut down the system at 20*C delta T. Well I accidentally put a 2 instead of 20 and as soon as you click off the input field the change takes effect. It was 12:30am with my lady next to me and the kids sleeping in the next rooms - BEEP BEEP BEEP BEEP and I'm trying to fix the setting but the computer is shutting down wheee.giflaughingsmiley.gif


Hehe woops.

Great software, wonderful product - I'm very glad I took this route and members here encouraged me to do so. I do have one question:

My MPS is hooked up over 4-pin Aquabus. I see the 'MPS internal 4' temperature sensor (which reads about 2*C higher than my other water sensor). I don't, however, see the flow. Under flow there are 3 readings, flows 1,2 and 14. Pretty certain the Aquabus address of the MPS is 15 (pre-configured with another computer and saw it in Aquasuite last night). The three flow sensors listed all say 0Gl/h. Where do I find or how do I provision the MPS flow sensor?


----------



## Shoggy

Number 14 is your mps. The numbers are a bit random because of the way how the aquaero assigns the numbers internally - it has noting to do with the aquabus ID. The name is just a preset - you can change it in the settings (same window).

Does the flow sensor work correctly when you use it via USB.


----------



## Archea47

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> Number 14 is your mps. The numbers are a bit random because of the way how the aquaero assigns the numbers internally - it has noting to do with the aquabus ID. The name is just a preset - you can change it in the settings (same window).
> 
> Does the flow sensor work correctly when you use it via USB.


Thanks Shoggy. Unfortunately I never had it in a loop over USB. I'll have to pull the side radiator and hook up over USB to see if it works ... no problem having USB and Aquabus at the same time, just need to power down before plugging in the USB correct?


----------



## DanBr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> The first thing you should check is the systems tab with the box that list all connected aquabus devices. As said, it seems that your farbwerk is not even connected to the aquaero. Of course in this case you can not control it.
> The LED strip will turn off when you allow the external control because so far you have not assigned any action to it. As said, the color wheel has nothing to do with the farbwerk in general. It is always available because the aquaero has also an integrated RGB port which you can control from this setting.
> 
> In your screenshot the RGB LED controller IS also assigned to the internal RGB LED output of the aquaero. As long as you do not allow the external control in the farbwerk settings (USB), you will not be able to change these settings and to assign the farbwerk outputs to this color wheel.


Thanks, there is a color wheel under the Farbwerk controller tab for each of the 4 RGB output connectors on the Farbwerk. I am able to move the pointer around on that (RGB output 3) and see the color change.


----------



## khaosstrife

FNG here to the whole Aquacomputer Aquaero 6XT scene. Been bugging Shoggy for a while and he has been a massive help with answering all my questions thus far. Finally came across this thread and figured I would join in.

I am going to apologize first hand for if I happen to ask questions that have already been answered.

Much like the PowerAdjust units with the heat spreaders installed and allowing you to squeeze more power use out of them, does the Aquaero 6XT follow the same principle with the heatsink and waterblock installed? I am trying to gauge if I need to use external powered PWM splitters/distro boards for attaching 8 fans.

I plan on installing one NF-A14-IPPC30P on one of the PWM ports by itself.

Power usage at 100% is

Max. Input Power 6.6 W
Max. Input Current 0.55 A
Voltage 12 V

I have 7 NF-F12-IPPC30P fans I would like to install spread out across the other 3 PWM ports.

Power usage at 100% each is

Max. Input Power 3.6 W
Max. Input Current 0.3 A
Voltage 12 V

I have some PowerAdjust 2 Ultras as well but I am clueless at this point on how to use or install them.

Thanks in advance.


----------



## khaosstrife

Never mind. I found my answer. I overlooked that.


----------



## Archea47

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> Number 14 is your mps. The numbers are a bit random because of the way how the aquaero assigns the numbers internally - it has noting to do with the aquabus ID. The name is just a preset - you can change it in the settings (same window).
> 
> Does the flow sensor work correctly when you use it via USB.


Hey Shoggy,

Anything I should be changing here or elsewhere to get the MPS reading before I start disassembling to run USB?



EDIT: As an extra data point, the MPS does report RPM through the Alarm port to CPU_FAN. It's a constant 2710-2721RPM


----------



## Shoggy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Archea47*
> 
> Thanks Shoggy. Unfortunately I never had it in a loop over USB. I'll have to pull the side radiator and hook up over USB to see if it works ... no problem having USB and Aquabus at the same time, just need to power down before plugging in the USB correct?


That will be very likely the problem here. When you have not used it via USB before, it means it has not been configured. To turn off the PC before you connect the USB cable is recommend.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DanBr*
> 
> Thanks, there is a color wheel under the Farbwerk controller tab for each of the 4 RGB output connectors on the Farbwerk. I am able to move the pointer around on that (RGB output 3) and see the color change.


The settings in the farbwerk controller tab (left side) are the controls that you access via USB. Changing the colors there will work of course but just the fact that you can change the color through the color wheel already means you have not changed the mode to allow an external control. If you do so, this wheel will not be available.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Archea47*
> 
> Anything I should be changing here or elsewhere to get the MPS reading before I start disassembling to run USB?
> 
> EDIT: As an extra data point, the MPS does report RPM through the Alarm port to CPU_FAN. It's a constant 2710-2721RPM


It does not matter what you set there because it will be ignored for external aquabus sensors. This setting is only relevant when using a 3-pin sensor.
The way how the alarm port works depends on the configuration of the sensor (USB again...).


----------



## Archea47

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> That will be very likely the problem here. When you have not used it via USB before, it means it has not been configured. To turn off the PC before you connect the USB cable is recommend.
> The settings in the farbwerk controller tab (left side) are the controls that you access via USB. Changing the colors there will work of course but just the fact that you can change the color through the color wheel already means you have not changed the mode to allow an external control. If you do so, this wheel will not be available.
> It does not matter what you set there because it will be ignored for external aquabus sensors. This setting is only relevant when using a 3-pin sensor.
> The way how the alarm port works depends on the configuration of the sensor (USB again...).


Hi Shoggy, I did indeed pre-configure the unit over USB. What I meant is at the time it was plugged into USB and pre-configured the computer it was plugged into didn't have a water cooling system and flow to measure. So I don't know if the flow portion of the sensor ever worked because over USB I expected the flow to be zero


----------



## Kry0g3nic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TViper04*
> 
> Have you tried this from the Aquaero manual?
> 
> "If an output current of 3 A is exceeded, the out-put will be permanently disabled. To reactivate the output, the aquaero (or the complete PC) has to be disconnected from power for a short period of time."


Sorry it has taken me so long to respond to any of the comments on here. I've had a death in the family and it's been a mess around my house. Anyway, yes, I have. I printed the big manual out before my unit ever got to me so I could see exactly what I could do with it. I have done everything known to do with it to try and get the outputs back and nothing has helped. I got ahold of Sven over at AQ and he has me set up for an RMA. But I don't feel comfortable sending my unit (even if it is dead atm) back to Germany using some pony express carrier method that may take a month to get there and who knows how long to get back to me. So I used my FedEx account and did a quote to see just how much it would be to send this 2lb package over there and I about fell out of my chair. 101 bucks back to Germany. Wow, I have 160 plus tax in the unit as is so I don't see spending another 100 bucks on postage for an RMA. I also own an 6 XT too and am using it for everything right now but I want to get everything back to being split up between the two to reduce the load on the XT. So, I have a question. I Googled it and didn't really find anything. Will a 6 Pro screen work on an 5 LT? I know the outputs aren't as robust as the 6 but I only really need it to run a few fans which would be plenty. I know the screens for the 6 XT and the 6 Pro will interchange no problem but the splash screen will still display the model the screen came from. I found this out first hand. Anyway, if you know if I can plug the screen into an LT I'd be eager to know. I'm just curious if the pins for the screen connector are even on the LT. As it stands, if I cant find a use for the screen I may just slave it off the XT so I have a side display and a front display given the output power is sufficient to drive dual displays. Thanks in advance for any info. Sorry this is so long winded


----------



## Shoggy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kry0g3nic*
> 
> Will a 6 Pro screen work on an 5 LT?


Yes, that works. The aquaero 5 and 6 series uses the same display and the 5 LT also has the display interface on its board so you can attach one.


----------



## Kry0g3nic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> Yes, that works. The aquaero 5 and 6 series uses the same display and the 5 LT also has the display interface on its board so you can attach one.


Good deal. Thanks Shoggy. I'll be ordering an LT then.

Cheers!


----------



## Mega Man

just plop it in an envelope ( padded ) without the screen

a few bucks worse case it gets lost and you buy a 5lt ! no reason not to get a 6 back if you can

as to the death i am sorry to hear, you have my condolences


----------



## jsutter71

Does anyone know where you can buy the multiswitch USB 1.41 Version LT?


----------



## Mega Man

You can't they ate no longer made nor supported

I bought the last from Shoggy (lt)

And I found 2 (non LT) on ebay

If you want I would be willing to sell one


----------



## jsutter71

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> You can't they ate no longer made nor supported
> 
> I bought the last from Shoggy (lt)
> 
> And I found 2 (non LT) on ebay
> 
> If you want I would be willing to sell one


Why were they discontinued? I just made a big purchase from performance PCS. I received the 6 XT and passive heatsink this morning. The other stuff will be here tomorrow.

Aquacomputer Water Block for Aquaero 5, G1/4
Aquacomputer Flow Sensor 'High Flow' G1/4 for Aquaero 5/6 , Aquastream XT Ultra and Poweradjust
Aquacomputer RGB LED-Lighting Module for Aquaero 5/6
Aquacomputer aquaero 5 LT USB Fan-Controller
Aquacomputer farbwerk USB, aquabus version
Aquacomputer Connector for RGB LED strips, 70 cm


----------



## jvillaveces

Since I installed Windows 10 a few weeks ago, I haven't been able to have BOINC start automatically. I uninstalled/reinstalled it, and refreshed all the computing preferences, but it won't start unless I set it to "run always". No screensaver will ever start either. Since both things depend on there being no mouse or keyboard input for a specified time, I'm suspecting the culprit is my Aquaero 6 Pro sending keyboard inputs. Any ideas on how to troubleshoot this and possibly fix it? I don't like the idea of disconnecting it and seeing if BOINC runs, because it uses all of the CPU and GPUs, so I don't want that much heat in my system with no fans.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jsutter71*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> You can't they ate no longer made nor supported
> 
> I bought the last from Shoggy (lt)
> 
> And I found 2 (non LT) on ebay
> 
> If you want I would be willing to sell one
> 
> 
> 
> Why were they discontinued? I just made a big purchase from performance PCS. I received the 6 XT and passive heatsink this morning. The other stuff will be here tomorrow.
> 
> Aquacomputer Water Block for Aquaero 5, G1/4
> Aquacomputer Flow Sensor 'High Flow' G1/4 for Aquaero 5/6 , Aquastream XT Ultra and Poweradjust
> Aquacomputer RGB LED-Lighting Module for Aquaero 5/6
> Aquacomputer aquaero 5 LT USB Fan-Controller
> Aquacomputer farbwerk USB, aquabus version
> Aquacomputer Connector for RGB LED strips, 70 cm
Click to expand...

i dont speak for AQ at all so no idea why they did

my suspect is the farbwrek

as of 2015 aquasuite they are also no longer supported ( or one of the versions, idk ) as they stopped supporting lowspeed aquabus period ( this includes the fillmeter ) specifically there is a firmware that shuts it off,

let us hope the next generation ( aq7 or w.e. ) not only removed lowspeed aquabus, but installs another 2pin header for shutoff like the aq5 had ( for your powerswitch) !~


----------



## Shoggy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jsutter71*
> 
> Why were they discontinued?


The tubemeter has been replaced with the mps pressure sensors that can be used to measure the fill level. The new senors can be adapted to pretty much any reservoir while the tubemeter was only compatible to the aquatube and aquainlet.

The demand for the multiswitch was almost not existent anymore so it was just logical to discontinue it. The tubemeter was pretty much the same in the end.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> let us hope the next generation ( aq7 or w.e. ) not only removed lowspeed aquabus, but installs another 2pin header for shutoff like the aq5 had ( for your powerswitch) !~


Mh? While the aquaero 5 had only a 2-pin relay the aquaero 6 has even a 3-pin relay? So you can do at least the same stuff with it and even more.


----------



## Mega Man

correct me if i am wrong but the 5 had a 3 pin relay ( big box ) and standby pin ( small box )
yes i want BOTH not one !


----------



## Shoggy

Too many aquaeros...









Yes, you are right. It also has 3 pins. I was thinking of the aquaero 4 series









The standby header is pretty unnecessary since the logic of the aquaero can run from USB power. No idea what you want to do with it.


----------



## siltsunrise

Howdy, I am new to water stuff and have a chance to buy a used system with an aquero 6xt in it. I would never have gotten one myself, but since it's there...
What exactly does this thing do that I could not just do with pwm software controls?
Full disclosure. I am completely new to all that fan business too. My old rig just had voltage controller and my fans had 3 speed switches. Primitive.









Just wondered what it is about, and taking the value into consideration as I haggle over this buy.
Nice caselabs build deluxe!

Thanks!


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> Too many aquaeros...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yes, you are right. It also has 3 pins. I was thinking of the aquaero 4 series
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The standby header is pretty unnecessary since the logic of the aquaero can run from USB power. No idea what you want to do with it.


maybe i am wrong then but i thought the stand by was a power switch ( ie you connected it to the power switch header ) thus freeing up your relay for other things .... if not then make the aq7 have a 2 pin power switch AND a relay please !!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *siltsunrise*
> 
> Howdy, I am new to water stuff and have a chance to buy a used system with an aquero 6xt in it. I would never have gotten one myself, but since it's there...
> What exactly does this thing do that I could not just do with pwm software controls?
> Full disclosure. I am completely new to all that fan business too. My old rig just had voltage controller and my fans had 3 speed switches. Primitive.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just wondered what it is about, and taking the value into consideration as I haggle over this buy.
> Nice caselabs build deluxe!
> 
> Thanks!


it does many things / can do many things,

but think of it like this, if your pc freezes this has its own cpu that keeps your fans running properly


----------



## Shoggy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> maybe i am wrong then but i thought the stand by was a power switch ( ie you connected it to the power switch header ) thus freeing up your relay for other things .... if not then make the aq7 have a 2 pin power switch AND a relay please !!


No, the standby plug only takes the 5V power from the PSU which is always present as long as the PSU is connected to a power socket. It was a compromise since a while back not all mainboards were providing power through USB when the PC has been shut down.

There is no such thing like a power switch. It would be the relay and as you can see the relay and its plug takes a lot of space so you can be sure we will not add a second one.


----------



## Archea47

Controlling fans with curves and virtual vs software sensors ...

*Software sensors*
I have a number of them coming in from HWinfo. If HWinfo crashes or closes, it looks like it takes ~30 seconds for the fans to spin up to 100% ...

Is that wait time configurable? Particularly cornered about a scenario where HWInfo crashes and the temperature spikes within that interval before the fans react
Is the refresh/polling interval configurable?
A feature request is to allow a standby controller for any fan so that say in the case HWinfo fails I can curve off a temperate or virtual sensor (or preset value that isn't 100%)
*Curving off virtual sensors (Delta T / water minus air) vs. software sensors (core)*
Currently I have my fans PWM controlled scaling off of the CPU core temp via software sensor from HWinfo.
The problem with this approach, apart from the points above, is that even though I may be running my fans from 1300-1800 RPM that variation is more annoying to my fiance than just running them at 2200 or even 3000 RPM. It's constantly spinning up and then spinning down. I suspect part of that is the polling interval. HWinfo's is configurable, but with the Aquaero keep up or can it be configured to?

I have a virtual Delta T sensor - with my current fan curve off the core I can do the most demanding tasks in BF4 without passing 39*C on the core and 4.2*C Delta T (couple 290Xs and mobo are in the water system as well). I feel like setting up fan curves off Delta T is going to take tens of hours of experimentation ... I don't at this point understand the relationship between core temps and Delta T, at least not enough to bake a curve off of. Can some fellow users share how they've approached this? I imagine the temperature variations of Delta T are more gradual than core so the fan speed changes shouldn't be as offensive to my lady but of absolute concern is keeping the components always within a stable temperature.

Oh and I'll be taking Daedalic partially apart this weekend to hook USB back up to the MPS400. I pre-configured it over USB on another computer but wasn't able to verify I had flow at that time and don't see any flow over Aquabus now that it's in the water system.


----------



## jvillaveces

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Archea47*
> 
> Controlling fans with curves and virtual vs software sensors ...
> 
> *Software sensors*
> I have a number of them coming in from HWinfo. If HWinfo crashes or closes, it looks like it takes ~30 seconds for the fans to spin up to 100% ...
> 
> Is that wait time configurable? Particularly cornered about a scenario where HWInfo crashes and the temperature spikes within that interval before the fans react
> Is the refresh/polling interval configurable?
> A feature request is to allow a standby controller for any fan so that say in the case HWinfo fails I can curve off a temperate or virtual sensor (or preset value that isn't 100%)
> *Curving off virtual sensors (Delta T / water minus air) vs. software sensors (core)*
> Currently I have my fans PWM controlled scaling off of the CPU core temp via software sensor from HWinfo.
> The problem with this approach, apart from the points above, is that even though I may be running my fans from 1300-1800 RPM that variation is more annoying to my fiance than just running them at 2200 or even 3000 RPM. It's constantly spinning up and then spinning down. I suspect part of that is the polling interval. HWinfo's is configurable, but with the Aquaero keep up or can it be configured to?
> 
> I have a virtual Delta T sensor - with my current fan curve off the core I can do the most demanding tasks in BF4 without passing 39*C on the core and 4.2*C Delta T (couple 290Xs and mobo are in the water system as well). I feel like setting up fan curves off Delta T is going to take tens of hours of experimentation ... I don't at this point understand the relationship between core temps and Delta T, at least not enough to bake a curve off of. Can some fellow users share how they've approached this? I imagine the temperature variations of Delta T are more gradual than core so the fan speed changes shouldn't be as offensive to my lady but of absolute concern is keeping the components always within a stable temperature.
> 
> Oh and I'll be taking Daedalic partially apart this weekend to hook USB back up to the MPS400. I pre-configured it over USB on another computer but wasn't able to verify I had flow at that time and don't see any flow over Aquabus now that it's in the water system.


When I start my system, my deltaT is about 2.5C, When I push the CPU and both GPUs to 100% for over 15 minutes, the delta goes up to 12.5C. I have configured my controller as you can see in the following screenshot:



I hope this helps.


----------



## Archea47

Thanks @jvillaveces! This gives me a good starting point - +rep


----------



## Mega Man

@Archea47

Currently I am on mobile.

Aquasuite already has everything you spoke of in your 3 part of your first point. Check out where you select the software temps source portion of aquasuite

As to delta t.

Delta t does not spike in temp so it is not as intermittently jumping your fans up and down (iirc average loop is 3-5 deg difference *off the top of my head* during normal loads ( not prime or looping benches )

Long story short your cores temp will not raise the water temp alot iirc my average loop temp is between 22-25c.

Even at full load long term.

That is because the air in my house is 72ish.

The water absorbs heat from the cpu. But you have a far greater volume of water then space in the cpu. So what heats the cpu up quickly disapates in the water as you have more.

Another way to look at it is

You take a coffee cup ( normal size not big gulp ) of boiling water and a large pot of cool water.

What will happen if you put that small cup of water in the hot water- you would be lucky to see 1deg c of change

Same idea when your cpu temp spikes. Now if you keep making the big pot larger that small cup of water has even less of an effect.

Same thing happens when you increase the volume of water in your loop. And your temp spikes. It takes longer time of a continual load to effect your loop water temp.

That is the ONLY effect having a larger volume of water does for you. ( did not mention anything about more rads )

Now if you take the large pot and add a continual heat source to it the temps will rise. In pcs as you are not only absorbing heat you are also dissipating heat into the ambient air. Assuming the ambient air is kept at the same temp the loop will heat up to a point where the water won't anymore ( my case around 25c ( please note i am going from memory as I am not home)) at this point the water is saturated (with heat). The saturation temp is dependent on how much rad space you have, the air movement avail ( ie fans- what kind you have ect ) and ambient temp.

Flow does effect all of this but not as much as you might think

These are why air to water delta works well when controlling fans. I hope this helps. I did it on my phone if I would of been home I would of gone into far greater detail. Feel free to ask of you have anymore questions


----------



## HMoneyGrip

Good Day Community....

I recently bought the Aquaero 6XT. I also bought a Koolance INS-FM19 Coolant Flow Meter. Will this flowmeter work with the Aquaero unit? Can you only use Aquaero branded flow meters with this unit?

Thanks in advance!

-Harold


----------



## Mega Man

You can use others but I am not sure how sorry. Others are more familiar with Koolance


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HMoneyGrip*
> 
> Good Day Community....
> 
> I recently bought the Aquaero 6XT. I also bought a Koolance INS-FM19 Coolant Flow Meter. Will this flowmeter work with the Aquaero unit? Can you only use Aquaero branded flow meters with this unit?
> 
> Thanks in advance!
> 
> -Harold


To use that flow meter, you'll have to have one of the Frequency Adapters that's made to go with it, . . . it will not plug in directly to the Aquaero:

http://koolance.com/adt-fm03-flow-meter-frequency-adapter

http://koolance.com/dcb-fm01-flow-meter-adapter-with-display

The first linked adapter will require a dedicated fan channel on the Aquaero, which will then read out in milliliters per minute.

The second linked adapter is orders of magnitude more flexible than the first, whereby it has a display built in and allows you to display in 3 different units, including gallons per minute, which is what we commonly use in the imperial based countries.

Additionally, it can also output to a fan channel of the Aquaero or even a mobo fan header, which will then read out in milliliters per minute.

Darlene


----------



## electro2u

I have one of the koolance flow signal adapters with display sitting unused if anyone wants it. It's really a neat unit-even has a switch for tubing size for more accurate reading.

I really like the MPS 400 sensor, though. I wouldn't recommend any other sensor for an Aquaero owner.


----------



## Z0eff

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> I have one of the koolance flow signal adapters with display sitting unused if anyone wants it. It's really a neat unit-even has a switch for tubing size for more accurate reading.
> 
> I really like the MPS 400 sensor, though. I wouldn't recommend any other sensor for an Aquaero owner.


Why the MPS? I personally went for the older "high flow" sensor just because calibrating a pressure sensor seems overly complicated over a simple impeller. No chance for me to mess up. And it agrees almost exactly with my koolance meter.


----------



## jsutter71

Is the Aquaero 6XT able to control other non Aquaero pumps? Specifically the EK XTOP Dual DDC 3.2 PWM. Would I have more flexibility if I used the Aquaero or to my motherboards CPU header. The EK pump has dual PWM connections. My motherboard is an Asus X99-E WS/ USB 3.1. Also, does the Aquaero 5 LT support the passive heatsink?


----------



## electro2u

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Z0eff*
> 
> just because calibrating a pressure sensor seems overly complicated over *a simple impeller*.


I've had 2 of the high flow sensors that rattled for whatever reason. I have a Koolance meter...but I went to shorten the wiring and lost track of which wires were which and was too lazy to sort it out.








I'd like to hook it up one of these days. To test how far off my calibration is. The main purpose of the meter is to track flow rate over time, though--so I just don't find myself super concerned with accuracy.


----------



## ratzofftoya

Hey all, am I understanding correctly that if the D5 pump is connected via Aquabus, there is no need for a connection to the power supply (via the 4pin molex)?


----------



## Archea47

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> It does not matter what you set there because it will be ignored for external aquabus sensors. This setting is only relevant when using a 3-pin sensor.
> The way how the alarm port works depends on the configuration of the sensor (USB again...).


Hey Shoggy,

I hooked up the MPS400 to the motherboard over USB to troubleshoot my issue of the MPS not reporting Flow over Aquabus

Okay with the MPS400 hooked up over USB I have the extra MPS tab - here's my configuration:


(note I only have 10/13 not 8/10 curve available?)

Over USB just like over Aquabus I have temperature but not flow:


Is it possible there are some configuration changes to make or do I have a failed unit? If failed can I reference you with support?

Thanks Shoggy & Club!


----------



## Shoggy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jsutter71*
> 
> Is the Aquaero 6XT able to control other non Aquaero pumps? Specifically the EK XTOP Dual DDC 3.2 PWM. Would I have more flexibility if I used the Aquaero or to my motherboards CPU header. The EK pump has dual PWM connections. My motherboard is an Asus X99-E WS/ USB 3.1. Also, does the Aquaero 5 LT support the passive heatsink?


You should be able to control both pumps via PWM (y-cable) when you connect it to fan channel four and change its mode to PWM control. Of course the power must be still supplied by the PSU directly so the aquaero will only adjust the speed and read the rpm of one pump (do not connect both rpm signals to the same port).

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ratzofftoya*
> 
> Hey all, am I understanding correctly that if the D5 pump is connected via Aquabus, there is no need for a connection to the power supply (via the 4pin molex)?


You still have to connect the PSU because the aquabus can not power the pump.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Archea47*
> 
> I hooked up the MPS400 to the motherboard over USB to troubleshoot my issue of the MPS not reporting Flow over Aquabus


You unscaled value of 0 below the chart is already suspicious. Maybe a problem with a faulty zero flow calibration. You could try to disable the automatic zero flow calibration, stop the pump and wait a short moment so there is no more movement of the water at all, then set zero flow manually with the button. Afterwards start the pump again. If the unscaled value still shows no reaction there is something faulty with this sensor or your flow rate is below 80 l/h.


----------



## ratzofftoya

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> You still have to connect the PSU because the aquabus can not power the pump.


Ah, the manual mentioned that if the Aquabus is connected, it delivers power, so I was a little confused. Thanks!


----------



## jsutter71

Does the Aquaero 5 LT support the passive heatsink?


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jsutter71*
> 
> Does the Aquaero 5 LT support the passive heatsink?


the short one, yep of course. The Aquaeros use the same PCBs aside from generation changes like 5 to 6 etc.

http://shop.aquacomputer.de/product_info.php?language=en&products_id=2692

Not the large coloured ones.


----------



## Ironsmack

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jsutter71*
> 
> Does the Aquaero 5 LT support the passive heatsink?


Yup.

http://www.performance-pcs.com/aquacomputer-passive-cooler-for-aquaero-5-new-version-20mm-high.html


----------



## jvillaveces

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jvillaveces*
> 
> Since I installed Windows 10 a few weeks ago, I haven't been able to have BOINC start automatically. I uninstalled/reinstalled it, and refreshed all the computing preferences, but it won't start unless I set it to "run always". No screensaver will ever start either. Since both things depend on there being no mouse or keyboard input for a specified time, I'm suspecting the culprit is my Aquaero 6 Pro sending keyboard inputs. Any ideas on how to troubleshoot this and possibly fix it? I don't like the idea of disconnecting it and seeing if BOINC runs, because it uses all of the CPU and GPUs, so I don't want that much heat in my system with no fans.


BUMP. Where can I find out what keyboard inputs the AQ6 is passing? Can this be tweaked or disabled?


----------



## Archea47

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> You unscaled value of 0 below the chart is already suspicious. Maybe a problem with a faulty zero flow calibration. You could try to disable the automatic zero flow calibration, stop the pump and wait a short moment so there is no more movement of the water at all, then set zero flow manually with the button. Afterwards start the pump again. If the unscaled value still shows no reaction there is something faulty with this sensor or your flow rate is below 80 l/h.


Thanks Shoggy!

Unfortunately I went through the process of disabling auto-zero, stopping the pumps (WOW it can idle for a long time with them off!) and setting current flow as zero and still have no flow or pressure reported by the MPS:



Do you think there is any hope for my MPS400? With the two D5s spinning at 4800RPM I still have no flow reported

On a happier note: Diva's D5 mod is working great! Here's some RPM scaling data:
*PWM %* : *RPM*
1: 1096
5: 1189
10: 1321
15: 1461
20: 1601
25: 1742
...
40: 2212
45: 2379
50: 2551
...
75: 3521
80: 3745
85: 3984
90: 4267
95: 4658
100: 4823

This is with 2x EK D5 pumps and the following components:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00LQS8XMC
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008MO6B72
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00B5RABS8
Thanks Diva!


----------



## ratzofftoya

Shoggy,

I ordered the 880 ml coated/waterfall/LED pump-mounted Aqualis from Performance-PCs (after begging them to stock it







) and it came with 3 countersunk 4Ms but one button head 3M. The 3M looks like the ones that come with the pump tops. Anyway, I can't secure my res to the pump top. Help!


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Archea47*
> 
> Thanks Shoggy!
> 
> Unfortunately I went through the process of disabling auto-zero, stopping the pumps (WOW it can idle for a long time with them off!) and setting current flow as zero and still have no flow or pressure reported by the MPS:
> 
> 
> Do you think there is any hope for my MPS400? With the two D5s spinning at 4800RPM I still have no flow reported
> 
> Thanks Diva!


Is it installed the right way round?

I have done that lots of times.


----------



## Shoggy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ratzofftoya*
> 
> Ah, the manual mentioned that if the Aquabus is connected, it delivers power, so I was a little confused. Thanks!


This is only true for USB powered devices like the mps sensors for example. And this also requires a 4-pin aquabus cable.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Archea47*
> 
> Do you think there is any hope for my MPS400?


_It's dead, Jim_









Since it shows no reaction at all I doubt that you can do something yourself. I recommend to return it.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ratzofftoya*
> 
> Anyway, I can't secure my res to the pump top. Help!


Please send me a PM with your address details so we can send you the missing screw. Please also mention the product there since I will already have forgotten what we were talking about when you send it


----------



## jsutter71

Could someone please explain to me the difference between the IP65 and IP67 LED strips, and about the 3rd option which just says RGB?


----------



## Mega Man

I don't know where you are looking. They are the rating of protection against water oil and dust

Some leds are enclosed in a plastic ( or w.e.) coating that allow them to be around water, oil ect. Either way you should not have to worry about it unless you prefer to have coating

http://www.usledsupply.com/shop/skin/frontend/default/usledsupply/images/LED%20Instructions/how-tos/RGB/RGB-cut-strip/21%20Peel%20Waterproof%20Coating%20sm.JPG

https://softsolder.files.wordpress.com/2012/11/img_2635-waterproof-rgb-led-strip-end-view.jpg

( on phone or I would insert them sorry. )

The coating helps to diffuse the light more but atm I can not find a pic of the difference (again on mobile )

If there is no rating then they may not be rated or coated. But I have also seen where people still get coated rgbs. This is why ebay is not a great place for leds if you care you need to use a local company or ask the ebay seller alot of questions.


----------



## 47 Knucklehead

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jsutter71*
> 
> Could someone please explain to me the difference between the IP65 and IP67 LED strips, and about the 3rd option which just says RGB?


https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/IP_Code

In a nutshell, the last is the water rating.

Here is IPx5: Water projected by a nozzle (6.3 mm) against enclosure from any direction shall have no harmful effects.

Here is IPx7: Ingress of water in harmful quantity shall not be possible when the enclosure is immersed in water under defined conditions of pressure and time (up to 1 m of submersion).

Bottom line, unless you plan on using a fish tank with lights in it as a case, then EITHER will work.


----------



## DanBr

Aquaero and data.
I can't make any sense out of the data logs and graphs.
For starters, I would like to get a log of specific temps over a range of time. (water temp, gpu, air water delta, cpu etc.)
What help is this, which is the XML log

Can't make any sense or consistent use of chart configurations either
What ever I do has to be redone each time.
I can get temps over a time range easily with third party apps like Realtemp GT, but it will only give GPU and CPU, I cannot get any water or delta temps


Any other programs that give decent log data?
Thanks
dan


----------



## Archea47

As for other programs with logging, check out HWINFO64 if you haven't already. Should be a pleasant contrast to Realtemp and it's readings can be pulled into the aquaro as software sensors


----------



## jvillaveces

My AQ6 is driving me nuts! I drained my loop, and took the opportunity to connect the Farbwerk to Aquabus, previously it was on USB only, and my only device on Aquabus was the High Flow Sensor USB. To get them both connected, I put a 4-pin y adapter on the AQ6 Aquabus port, and hooked both the Farbwerk and the flow sensor to it. When I restarted the system, Aquasuite reported that the only connected Aquabus device was the farbwerk.

The flow adapter was on the 3-pin leg of the adapter, so I figured that might be the problem and switched them. No luck. So I disconnected the Farbwerk and left only the flow sensor, on the 4-pin leg, no luck. As an experiment, I connected only the Farbwerk, but on the 3-pin leg, and Aquasuite correctly reported it as an Aquabus device. Finally, I thought there might be something wrong with the Aquabus cable to the flow sensor, so I hooked it up to the Farbwer, and it still reported correctly, but when I switched them back, the flow sensor was again invisible to the Aquaero. No matter what I tried, I couldn't get the Aquaero to see the flow sensor as an Aquabus device, which it had been doing just fine until I connected the Farbwerk too.

I know the flow sensor is still there, because its sensors show up normally on the overview page, but they are no longer available to the Aquaero.

On top of this, one of my temperature sensors had disappeared from Aquasuite a few weeks ago for no reason, so I made sure the connection was OK. When it still failed to appear, I moved it to another header and it reporrted just fine. I connected a spare sensor to the port where I used to have the one that disappeared, and that one was invisible too. It seems that the sensor header just died.

I'm wondering if there is something wrong with my AQ6, because I can find no explanation for this erratic behavior. Should I reset the AQ6 to factory settings and start over (shudder)? Send it back to AC? Take it outside and shoot the damn thing to put it out of my misery?,


----------



## Mega Man

I don't know about the temp sensor. But you can not use a pwm fan splitter you need a 4 pin splitter


----------



## DanBr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Archea47*
> 
> As for other programs with logging, check out HWINFO64 if you haven't already. Should be a pleasant contrast to Realtemp and it's readings can be pulled into the aquaro as software sensors


I am using HWINFO64. but I don't see any logging options.
I will look deeper in it, perhaps missed
dan


----------



## InfoSeeker

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DanBr*
> 
> Aquaero and data.
> I can't make any sense out of the data logs and graphs.
> For starters, I would like to get a log of specific temps over a range of time. (water temp, gpu, air water delta, cpu etc.)
> What help is this, which is the XML log
> 
> Can't make any sense or consistent use of chart configurations either
> What ever I do has to be redone each time.
> I can get temps over a time range easily with third party apps like Realtemp GT, but it will only give GPU and CPU, I cannot get any water or delta temps
> 
> 
> Any other programs that give decent log data?
> Thanks
> dan


I believe the aquasuite 'Data log' function will do what you are looking for, plus you can graph the data.
.

There is a learning curve, but get started by reading chapter 10 of the aquaero manual.
Quote:


> 10. Data log (aquasuite)
> Data from all connected Aqua Computer devices can be logged by the
> aquasuite. Logged data can then be analyzed by creating charts or be ex-
> ported to files.


----------



## jvillaveces

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> I don't know about the temp sensor. But you can not use a pwm fan splitter you need a 4 pin splitter


That doesn't explain why it will see the Farbwerk on either leg (3 or 4 pin) or either cable, but will not see the flow sensor on either leg or with either cable.

Anyway, can you point me to non-pwm splitters commercially available?

EDIT: Connecting the flow sensor to the Farbwerk's second Aquabus port (the first is connected to the AQ6) solved my problem but I still don't understand!.


----------



## DanBr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *InfoSeeker*
> 
> I believe the aquasuite 'Data log' function will do what you are looking for, plus you can graph the data.
> .
> 
> There is a learning curve, but get started by reading chapter 10 of the aquaero manual.


You are correct, although I did not see it in the manual
I just kept playing around with it and now it does everything I would need
I will review manual to see if there is more functions I missed

dan


----------



## jvillaveces

OK, after several months of using the Aquaero 6, there are are still several things I haven't been able to figure out. My setup is:
- AQ6 controllling two radiators, each rad on its own fan header
- One RGB led connected to my res top, changing colors on a temp-based curve
- Farbwerk driving two RGB LED strips, connected to USB and Aquabus (20)
- One temp sensor connected to the motherboard and reported through HWInfo
- Two AC temp sensors connectedf to the AQ6 (BTW, one of its sensor headers stopped working)
- One High Flow USB Flow Sensor, connected to USB and to Aquabus (15) through the Farbwek
- Two D5 USB Pump Mechanics connected to USB

So here is my list of unresolved questions:

- How do I get the AQ6 to report a speed signal to the mobo so I don't have to configure the CPU_FAN header to "ignore"? The manuual says something to the effect that the alarm functions need to be configured appropriately, but I haven't been able to figure *** that means

- I could never get the PWM headers to work, despite having bought the appropriate connections. I tried (single color) LED strips from 4 different manufacturers and couldn't get any of them to work. Is this user error or is there an obscure trick to getting these ports to work?

- The Aquabus-low bus was disabled with the latest firmware. Is that port on the AQ6 imply dead or is it available as a second Aquabus-high port?

- What keyboard and mouse inputs is the AQ6 passing to the PC? Can this activity be stopped or paused so it doesn't interfere (on Win 10) with programs such as screensavers or BOINC that activate after a certain time of no keyboard/mouse activity?


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jvillaveces*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> I don't know about the temp sensor. But you can not use a pwm fan splitter you need a 4 pin splitter
> 
> 
> 
> That doesn't explain why it will see the Farbwerk on either leg (3 or 4 pin) or either cable, but will not see the flow sensor on either leg or with either cable.
> 
> Anyway, can you point me to non-pwm splitters commercially available?
> 
> EDIT: Connecting the flow sensor to the Farbwerk's second Aquabus port (the first is connected to the AQ6) solved my problem but I still don't understand!.
Click to expand...

without being there i will not be able to tell you why sorry

afaik though the farbwek gets the power from the fat 4 pin not the aquabus

so it will work without the "4th" pin ( +12vdc" hooked up )
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jvillaveces*
> 
> OK, after several months of using the Aquaero 6, there are are still several things I haven't been able to figure out. My setup is:
> - AQ6 controllling two radiators, each rad on its own fan header
> - One RGB led connected to my res top, changing colors on a temp-based curve
> - Farbwerk driving two RGB LED strips, connected to USB and Aquabus (20)
> - One temp sensor connected to the motherboard and reported through HWInfo
> - Two AC temp sensors connectedf to the AQ6 (BTW, one of its sensor headers stopped working)
> - One High Flow USB Flow Sensor, connected to USB and to Aquabus (15) through the Farbwek
> - Two D5 USB Pump Mechanics connected to USB
> 
> So here is my list of unresolved questions:
> 
> 
> - How do I get the AQ6 to report a speed signal to the mobo so I don't have to configure the CPU_FAN header to "ignore"? The manuual says something to the effect that the alarm functions need to be configured appropriately, but I haven't been able to figure *** that means
> - I could never get the PWM headers to work, despite having bought the appropriate connections. I tried (single color) LED strips from 4 different manufacturers and couldn't get any of them to work. Is this user error or is there an obscure trick to getting these ports to work?
> - The Aquabus-low bus was disabled with the latest firmware. Is that port on the AQ6 imply dead or is it available as a second Aquabus-high port?
> - What keyboard and mouse inputs is the AQ6 passing to the PC? Can this activity be stopped or paused so it doesn't interfere (on Win 10) with programs such as screensavers or BOINC that activate after a certain time of no keyboard/mouse activity?


1- you have a 3 pin port labeled RPM and you receive a 3 pin cable with the aquaero connect that to the mobo DO NOT CONNECT the flow port


2- you are talking about the 2 pin PWM ? did you turn them on in the aquasuite ? did you verify with a multi meter ?

3 its dead for the high port you need a 4th pin ( if i am wrong i am sure shoggy will tell me )

4 dunno looking for this as well


----------



## Anateus

I have unplugged aquaero 6 pro and I am currently leak testing. My d5 is pwm controllable, but runs on lowest RPM. Can I plug AQ6 to power, connect pump to it and use display + buttons to speed up the pump? I cant do a proper leak test without pump running on max.


----------



## InfoSeeker

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DanBr*
> 
> You are correct, although I did not see it in the manual
> I just kept playing around with it and now it does everything I would need
> I will review manual to see if there is more functions I missed
> 
> dan


Here is a little chart that shows the 3 processor loads (1 CPU, 2 GPU) and the impact on the Water/Ambient Delta.
I shut the game down about 15:40 dropping the processing load, and you can follow the resultant temperature delta drop.
I need more fans on my radiator.


----------



## DanBr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *InfoSeeker*
> 
> Here is a little chart that shows the 3 processor loads (1 CPU, 2 GPU) and the impact on the Water/Ambient Delta.
> I shut the game down about 15:40 dropping the processing load, and you can follow the resultant temperature delta drop.
> I need more fans on my radiator.


Is processor load a better indicator than CPU temps?
I will look for that value in HWINFO
Thanks
Dan


----------



## InfoSeeker

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DanBr*
> 
> Is processor load a better indicator than CPU temps?
> I will look for that value in HWINFO
> Thanks
> Dan


No, not better, just what I was interested in monitoring.
I feel the processor temps oscillate even more than the processor load, and the temps will follow the load.

Though, with a 2 second sample rate, it probably makes little difference.


----------



## jvillaveces

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> afaik though the farbwek gets the power from the fat 4 pin not the aquabus so it will work without the "4th" pin ( +12vdc" hooked up )


That is correct, but not directly relevant to how it is seen in Aquabus and whether/how its sensors and controllers appear to the Aquaero

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> 1- you have a 3 pin port labeled RPM and you receive a 3 pin cable with the aquaero connect that to the mobo DO NOT CONNECT the flow port


Thank you for the explanations and the screenshot. Unfortunately, that is exactly the way mine is set up, but my mobo doesn't see a speed signal. I have tried every permutation I could think of in Aquasuite but it doesn't work. I also tried, unsuccessfully, to connect the alarm port of either pump and the flow meter to that header, configuring their respective alarms to the best of my ability, and nothing has worked. In this case I am 100% convinced it's a case of user error, because it's not possible for those many devices to malfunction in the same way at the same time, but I have given up on figuring it out for myself, so I decided to ask here.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> 2- you are talking about the 2 pin PWM ? did you turn them on in the aquasuite ? did you verify with a multi meter ?


Yep, the useless POS 2-pin PWM ports. I did turn them onin Aquasuite (I think) , and tried multiple settings in Aquasuite, and nothing worked. I did NOT check them with a multimeter, I'm not even sure I would know how to do that, even though I have one of them gizmos lying around in a drawer. I didn't try to change the flux capacitor powering the hyperdrive in the ports, either, for I was under the assumption that if you pay beaucoup dalla for a device you can expect it to work, instead of having to verify whether it's properly put together
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> 3 its dead for the high port you need a 4th pin ( if i am wrong i am sure shoggy will tell me )


Yes, the high speed Aquabus needs 4-pin cables (not included with any Aquacomputer devices). My question was about the low speed port, and if I understand your answer correctly, it's simply dead, correct?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> 4 dunno looking for this as well


Yeah I know. I've asked around here a couple of times but it hasn't been answered. @Shoggy?


----------



## Anateus

So I've hooked up my EK D5 PWM to aquaero 6 (fan slot 4), but it doesnt seem to react on anything I do.
In Output menu I changed fan 4 control to RPM and PWM, both wont do anything (coolant flows just like before).
Am I doing anything wrong? I cant sent it up via aquasuite before leak testing.


----------



## MrStrat007

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anateus*
> 
> So I've hooked up my EK D5 PWM to aquaero 6 (fan slot 4), but it doesnt seem to react on anything I do.
> In Output menu I changed fan 4 control to RPM and PWM, both wont do anything (coolant flows just like before).
> Am I doing anything wrong? I cant sent it up via aquasuite before leak testing.


Sounds like you need to do the 'Diva mod found earlier in this thread but maybe others will chime in on this to confirm.


----------



## Anateus

Oh come on, more things to do... if I havent had enough leaks and problems with this new build


----------



## Furious Pcs

I Have a Aquaero 6xt and a EK-DDC 3.2 PWM X-TOP CSQ - Plexi i only get rpm read outs but can't control the pump pretty much did exactly as @Anateus did do i have to do the 'Diva mod ? or is there anyway around that with EK the PWM cable is only two pins on a 4 pin connector if anyone could help who has the same pump and controller would be greatly appreciated..


----------



## Mega Man

Yes you have to do the diva mod

miss read your post sorry, are you sure you put the aquaero into pwm control and not into rpm or voltage control


----------



## fast_fate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Furious Pcs*
> 
> I Have a Aquaero 6xt and a EK-DDC 3.2 PWM X-TOP CSQ - Plexi i only get rpm read outs but can't control the pump pretty much did exactly as @Anateus did do i have to do the 'Diva mod ? or is there anyway around that with EK the PWM cable is only two pins on a 4 pin connector if anyone could help who has the same pump and controller would be greatly appreciated..


Please see the reply below - you need NOT worry about Diva's Mod.
The 2 wire, 4 pin plug id correct - it's for RPM and PWM, the other cable should be plugged directly into a plug from your PSU.
Can you confirm that the fan channel has had control switched to PWM and is not Power controlled which is the default factory setting.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> Yes you have to do the diva mod


This response could get a lot of people confused as it has no quote for which the reply was targeted towards.
I only say this because the last question form FPcs was in rel;ation to a DDC 3.2 pum p for which no Diva Nod is needed.

For the new guys - Diva Mod is only for PWM D5 pumps via Aquaero which are NOT the latest Aqua Computer version which has D5 PWM control built in


----------



## Furious Pcs

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fast_fate*
> 
> Please see the reply below - you need NOT worry about Diva's Mod.
> The 2 wire, 4 pin plug id correct - it's for RPM and PWM, the other cable should be plugged directly into a plug from your PSU.
> Can you confirm that the fan channel has had control switched to PWM and is not Power controlled which is the default factory setting.
> This response could get a lot of people confused as it has no quote for which the reply was targeted towards.
> I only say this because the last question form FPcs was in rel;ation to a DDC 3.2 pum p for which no Diva Nod is needed.
> 
> For the new guys - Diva Mod is only for PWM D5 pumps via Aquaero which are NOT the latest Aqua Computer version which has D5 PWM control built in


Thank you ill try it out


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fast_fate*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Furious Pcs*
> 
> I Have a Aquaero 6xt and a EK-DDC 3.2 PWM X-TOP CSQ - Plexi i only get rpm read outs but can't control the pump pretty much did exactly as @Anateus did do i have to do the 'Diva mod ? or is there anyway around that with EK the PWM cable is only two pins on a 4 pin connector if anyone could help who has the same pump and controller would be greatly appreciated..
> 
> 
> 
> Please see the reply below - you need NOT worry about Diva's Mod.
> The 2 wire, 4 pin plug id correct - it's for RPM and PWM, the other cable should be plugged directly into a plug from your PSU.
> Can you confirm that the fan channel has had control switched to PWM and is not Power controlled which is the default factory setting.
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> Yes you have to do the diva mod
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> This response could get a lot of people confused as it has no quote for which the reply was targeted towards.
> I only say this because the last question form FPcs was in rel;ation to a DDC 3.2 pum p for which no Diva Nod is needed.
> 
> For the new guys - Diva Mod is only for PWM D5 pumps via Aquaero which are NOT the latest Aqua Computer version which has D5 PWM control built in
Click to expand...

whoops your 100% right i read d5 for some reason not DDC, my apology !!!

my new updated response
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> Yes you have to do the diva mod
> 
> miss read your post sorry, are you sure you put the aquaero into pwm control and not into rpm or voltage control


----------



## Furious Pcs

@fast_fate

Thank you so much it worked that little tricky circle you have to switch to for pwm thank god my ears don't have to bleed anymore







first time owning an Aquaero thanks for the Help!

Didn't want to do the mod anyways just wanted to figure this out


----------



## Furious Pcs

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> whoops your 100% right i read d5 for some reason not DDC, my apology !!!
> 
> my new updated response


Yup that was my issue was in power controlled was pissing me off lol around 4500-4600 rpm 12 volts that way to noisy


----------



## RDKing2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jvillaveces*
> 
> So here is my list of unresolved questions:
> 
> - How do I get the AQ6 to report a speed signal to the mobo so I don't have to configure the CPU_FAN header to "ignore"? The manuual says something to the effect that the alarm functions need to be configured appropriately, but I haven't been able to figure *** that means


If still having problems and you have the alarm actions configured. Only thing I can think of is the cable itself or your connection to the MB. You probably have already checked this - Many MB's have two CPU fan connections Typically the #1 fan is used when using only one fan/cable is connected.

Also I believe you must have at least one alarm configuration set up in addition to the alarm action.


----------



## Shoggy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jvillaveces*
> 
> I know the flow sensor is still there, because its sensors show up normally on the overview page, but they are no longer available to the Aquaero.


That makes no sense. If it is working there it must be also accessible in the aquaero. Otherwise it would be like saying my PC is broken but I can still see the desktop on the screen









Maybe you are confusing the USB and aquabus connection with each other? The presence of a sensor filed also does not automatically mean that the sensor is active. If you would disconnect the aquaero from your system you can still access its overview page but of course it will not show you any values in this case.

Quote:


> On top of this, one of my temperature sensors had disappeared from Aquasuite a few weeks ago for no reason, so I made sure the connection was OK. When it still failed to appear, I moved it to another header and it reporrted just fine. I connected a spare sensor to the port where I used to have the one that disappeared, and that one was invisible too. It seems that the sensor header just died.


Very unlikely that the port is damaged since it simply only reads the resistance of the sensor. It works like a simplified multimeter. I think you would be the first customer in our history with a damaged temperature port. In general it might make sense to perform a full reset of your device through the recovery mode:

1.) Turn off the PC and remove all connections with exception of power and USB.

2.) Place four jumpers on the temperature sensor connectors 5 to 8.

3.) Power on the system and after a short moment you should see a recovery mode screen in the aquaero display and the device should also beep 1x long followed by 3x short.

4.) Turn the PC off and remove the jumpers from the aquaero.

5.) Start the PC (aquaero will beep 3x short) and use the latest aquasuite 2015 software to flash the firmware onto the aquaero.

6.) Turn off the PC, connect all sensors etc. again and start the PC.

I recommend that for testing that you do not reuse a profile that you have saved before. Maybe there is something faulty in the profile data.

I'm wondering if there is something wrong with my AQ6, because I can find no explanation for this erratic behavior. Should I reset the AQ6 to factory settings and start over (shudder)? Send it back to AC? Take it outside and shoot the damn thing to put it out of my misery?,[/quote]

Quote:


> So here is my list of unresolved questions:
> 
> - How do I get the AQ6 to report a speed signal to the mobo so I don't have to configure the CPU_FAN header to "ignore"? The manuual says something to the effect that the alarm functions need to be configured appropriately, but I haven't been able to figure *** that means
> 
> - I could never get the PWM headers to work, despite having bought the appropriate connections. I tried (single color) LED strips from 4 different manufacturers and couldn't get any of them to work. Is this user error or is there an obscure trick to getting these ports to work?
> 
> - The Aquabus-low bus was disabled with the latest firmware. Is that port on the AQ6 imply dead or is it available as a second Aquabus-high port?
> 
> - What keyboard and mouse inputs is the AQ6 passing to the PC? Can this activity be stopped or paused so it doesn't interfere (on Win 10) with programs such as screensavers or BOINC that activate after a certain time of no keyboard/mouse activity?


You have to connect the included 3-pin cable to the rpm header on the aquaero and the other end to the fan header of your mainboard. In the tab alarm actions of the aquasuite you have to make sure that alarm level 0 (normal operation) contains the action "speed signal: on".
If it still does not work you can also connect the cable to one of the four fan channel ports instead of the mainboard. The channel that you select must have a speed setting of at least 1% or more because at 0% the aquaero will not monitor the speed signal.

For the PWM ports make sure that in the outputs tab the power output 1 and 2 has a minimum power of 0%, a maximum power of 100% and none of the check boxes for them are active. In the controller tab click on the upper right plus icon, select preset value (as example), set it to 100% and assign power output 1 and 2 on the right side with the plus icon of this controller. If your LEDs do not run they are maybe connected the wrong way or incompatible to PWM. If you own a multimeter you can check the voltage. Since the signal is pulsed the multimeter might act a bit weird with the measured value but as long as you can see a voltage the port should work correctly.

The aquabus low speed port has no function at the moment.

The aquaero only forwards keyboard and mouse actions that you perform yourself with the remote. Besides this the alarm management can send keyboard commands like standby or shutdown but this must be also set in the software or device by yourself. So in normal operation the device will not send anything.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anateus*
> 
> I have unplugged aquaero 6 pro and I am currently leak testing. My d5 is pwm controllable, but runs on lowest RPM. Can I plug AQ6 to power, connect pump to it and use display + buttons to speed up the pump? I cant do a proper leak test without pump running on max.


To make it easy: that will not work for several reasons. You will have to configure it with the software via USB.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anateus*
> 
> So I've hooked up my EK D5 PWM to aquaero 6 (fan slot 4), but it doesnt seem to react on anything I do.
> In Output menu I changed fan 4 control to RPM and PWM, both wont do anything (coolant flows just like before).
> Am I doing anything wrong? I cant sent it up via aquasuite before leak testing.


That does not work because this pump has no pull-up circuit for the PWM signal which is mandatory according to Intels PWM specifications. You can add such a pull-up yourself with this modification.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fast_fate*
> 
> For the new guys - Diva Mod is only for PWM D5 pumps via Aquaero which are NOT the latest Aqua Computer version which has D5 PWM control built in


That sentence is a bit confusing since it could leave the impression there are aquaero with and without a D5 PWM control which is not the case of course. They always work the same and require a pull-up for the PWM signal which is the job of the pump and not the aquaero.


----------



## Anateus

Mehh. Wish I bought vario instead :/


----------



## Archea47

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anateus*
> 
> Mehh. Wish I bought vario instead :/


I was pretty frustrated myself with having to do the Diva Mod for my two EK PWM D5s

But the mod worked!


----------



## Anateus

Guess I'll do it. More skills to learn


----------



## InfoSeeker

I believe the the Flow sensor mps 200 and the Flow sensor mps 400 are physically the same device.
Are the electronics also identical with only a software difference, or are the electronics different between the two?

I guess my question is, is the resolution better with the 200 compared to the 400?


----------



## Speng

Most motherboard CPU fan headers seem to provide a powerful enough PWM signal for this to be a non issue but in a scenario where a PWM splitter is used in conjunction with an Aquaero as PWM controller, you get problems.

Corsair SP120 PWM fans would be an illustrating example. Using a Swiftech 8 way PWM splitter it is only possible to control 4 such fans. Attaching more than that will weaken the PWM signal to the point where the fans electronics won't detect it and instead crank all the fans up to 100%.

Does anyone have any ideas how to remedy this? Maybe a PWM amplifier?

As I am by no stretch of the imagination a DIY kinda person when it comes to electronics, I would very much like to avoid a soldering iron, multi-meter and other electtronic tinkering paraphernalia and gadgets and would prefer a ready made mojang to plop in there and just have it work.

Guess it's just not my lucky day today.


----------



## jvillaveces

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> That makes no sense. If it is working there it must be also accessible in the aquaero. Otherwise it would be like saying my PC is broken but I can still see the desktop on the screen
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Maybe you are confusing the USB and aquabus connection with each other? The presence of a sensor filed also does not automatically mean that the sensor is active. If you would disconnect the aquaero from your system you can still access its overview page but of course it will not show you any values in this case.
> Very unlikely that the port is damaged since it simply only reads the resistance of the sensor. It works like a simplified multimeter. I think you would be the first customer in our history with a damaged temperature port. In general it might make sense to perform a full reset of your device through the recovery mode:


Thank you for the instructions on how to perform a full reset, I will attempt that. I'm assuming that any thin gauge wire can be used as a jumper for this purpose? Before doing this, I will try to connect my Aquabus devices using an Aquacomputer 4-pin y splitter, which I ordered from PPCS. My problem started when I used a regular PWM splitter, so maybe using the right cable will solve them.

I agree that the situation I reported doesn't make sense, that is why I brought it up. That doesn't mean, however, that I posted inaccurate information! I have not confused the USB port and the Aquabus port. The flow sensor field is not just present on the page, it's active, i.e. it contains information and its value changes if I change the pump power, but under "flow sensors" in the Aquaero tab only "Flow 1" and "Flow 2" are visible, and the virtual sensors I had created to make use of the High Flow USB's internal temp sensor now display an exclamation sign instead of a value. So, I reiterate: the High Flow USB sensor is detected by Aquasuite as a USB mps device, but the Aquaero doesn't see it. If this isn't a feature, it's a bug in the software or a defect in the hardware.

EDIT: I connected the High Flow Sensor USB to the second Aquabus port on the Farbwerk and everything is working correctly again, so I won't be using the y splitter after all


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *InfoSeeker*
> 
> I believe the the Flow sensor mps 200 and the Flow sensor mps 400 are physically the same device.
> Are the electronics also identical with only a software difference, or are the electronics different between the two?
> 
> I guess my question is, is the resolution better with the 200 compared to the 400?


The three mps flow sensor models have identical electronics, and identical sensor. Only the diameter of the internal restrictor plate of the housing is different. A 100 & 200 model can be converted to a 400 or even better a custom size. I have a 100 that I converted to the equivalent of a 350


----------



## InfoSeeker

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> The three mps flow sensor models have identical electronics. Only the diameter of the internal restrictor plate of the housing is different. A 100 & 200 model can be converted to a 400 or even better a custom size. I have a 100 that I converted to the equivalent of a 350


Thank you Jakus!

Do you have a guess if the resolution at say 150 l/h is finer on the 200 compared to the 400?
I am assuming so, else why make a 200?


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *InfoSeeker*
> 
> Thank you Jakus!
> 
> Do you have a guess if the resolution at say 150 l/h is finer on the 200 compared to the 400?
> I am assuming so, else why make a 200?


Yes that is exactly right. That is why I made mine a 300-350ish instead of a 400 because it is more accurate across the flow rates that I actually have in the system. I reckon instead of the models they have, 400, 200 & 100 they should have gone 400, 300 & 200 because for lots of people 200 is just a bit too low and a loop that could not exceed 100lph is a really rare one.
The sensor works on a range of pressure. If that pressure range covers a smaller range of flow rate then it of course has finer resolution.

You can read all about them in the community testing thread, and it has the internal diameters of the different models.When I have some time I'll post a calibration for my custom one and the drill size used if anyone wants to copy it.


----------



## InfoSeeker

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Speng*
> 
> Most motherboard CPU fan headers seem to provide a powerful enough PWM signal for this to be a non issue but in a scenario where a PWM splitter is used in conjunction with an Aquaero as PWM controller, you get problems.
> 
> Corsair SP120 PWM fans would be an illustrating example. Using a Swiftech 8 way PWM splitter it is only possible to control 4 such fans. Attaching more than that will weaken the PWM signal to the point where the fans electronics won't detect it and instead crank all the fans up to 100%.
> 
> Does anyone have any ideas how to remedy this? Maybe a PWM amplifier?
> 
> As I am by no stretch of the imagination a DIY kinda person when it comes to electronics, I would very much like to avoid a soldering iron, multi-meter and other electtronic tinkering paraphernalia and gadgets and would prefer a ready made mojang to plop in there and just have it work.
> 
> Guess it's just not my lucky day today.


This topic is of great interest to me also.

I am planing a large external radiator that will run twelve 140mm fans, and i was thinking of going with PWM fans. But from what I see here, that sounds like a no go.

Would voltage control fans be a better solution for a 12 fan radiator as long as total watts stayed below the aquaero per channel threshold?


----------



## Jakusonfire

It depends a lot on the fans themselves. I have run 10 Vardar fans on a single channel without any problems.
The corsair fan issue has been partially addressed with the newer version of the Aquaero and they can generally control more of them now.


----------



## Shoggy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jvillaveces*
> 
> I'm assuming that any thin gauge wire can be used as a jumper for this purpose?


You can use everything that is conductive.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *InfoSeeker*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Speng*
> 
> Most motherboard CPU fan headers seem to provide a powerful enough PWM signal for this to be a non issue but in a scenario where a PWM splitter is used in conjunction with an Aquaero as PWM controller, you get problems.
> 
> Corsair SP120 PWM fans would be an illustrating example. Using a Swiftech 8 way PWM splitter it is only possible to control 4 such fans. Attaching more than that will weaken the PWM signal to the point where the fans electronics won't detect it and instead crank all the fans up to 100%.
> 
> Does anyone have any ideas how to remedy this? Maybe a PWM amplifier?
> 
> As I am by no stretch of the imagination a DIY kinda person when it comes to electronics, I would very much like to avoid a soldering iron, multi-meter and other electtronic tinkering paraphernalia and gadgets and would prefer a ready made mojang to plop in there and just have it work.
> 
> Guess it's just not my lucky day today.
> 
> 
> 
> This topic is of great interest to me also.
> 
> I am planing a large external radiator that will run twelve 140mm fans, and i was thinking of going with PWM fans. But from what I see here, that sounds like a no go.
> 
> Would voltage control fans be a better solution for a 12 fan radiator as long as total watts stayed below the aquaero per channel threshold?
Click to expand...

I've written a lot regarding the Aquaeros, the A6 in particular, regarding their PWM implementation.

The PWM version of the D5 pump, and the PWM Corsair fans have been a bit problematic.

If you do an advanced search with IT Diva as the username and PWM, Corsair as the keywords, (tick the" posts only" box, not "entire site") you'll get 3 pages or so of relevant posts.

If you do an advanced search with my name and PWM, "sink current" as the keywords, you'll get pages about PWM. (tick the "posts only" box)

A quick copy paste from one post explaining briefly how to look at PWM in a PC:

In actuality, a PC PWM controller based on the Intel PWM standard, "pushes" no power at all.

It sinks current to ground.

Each PWM controlled device is responsible for supplying its own 5V level.

Therein lies the problem as you add greater numbers of controlled devices . . . . . the amount of current that the controller has to sink to ground rises, and manipulating Ohm's law, voltage dropped equals I squared R, the drop across the protective resistors on the controller's PWM input raises the logic low voltage level that the controlled devices see above the threshold to where it isn't seen as off-time any more, and you loose progressively more low speed control as you add devices.

It's a much better analogy, and much more accurate to think of it as, "the signal current level of multiple devices overwhelms the controller," than that "the controller signal becomes too weak as more devices are added".

Darlene


----------



## jvillaveces

I still haven't been able to set up my Aquaero 6 so that the CPU_FAN header sees its speed signal. I'm running Windows 10 Pro 64 bit, Asus Deluxe Z97 mobo with the latest BIOS. Here are a couple of screenshots from Aquasuite, showing my overview page and my alarm actions. What should I change to get this to work? Thanks!!





EDIT: This is the alarm configuration page for the High Flow USB, which shows there is no speed signal. I believe this is the problem. How do I activate it? It's selected in the top frame, but it appears to be off.


----------



## jeanspaulo

Hello IT Diva, I need some help with my workaround to the pwm pump mod, I couldn't find an 3.3k resistor only found a 2.2k and I'm using a single MCP655 pump its ok to use the mod with it 5.1 Zener diode, 560ohm resistor and 2.2k ??


----------



## gftgy

Okay, so I bought an Aquaero 6 Pro. Now this may be a silly question, but how do I turn this thing on?

I've connected the four-pin molex power plug to the aquaero at one end, and the SATA connection on the PSU at the other. The PSU is on, and receiving power. What's next?

Apparently my power supply doesn't provide power through the SATA connection until it receives a signal from the motherboard to do so. The Aquaero 6 turned on as soon as it started receiving power from the SATA output on the PSU.

Looks like I'll have to use another power supply if I want to operate this without a computer.


----------



## RDKing2

[quote name="jvillaveces" url="/t/1474470/ocn-aquaero-owners-club/5610#post_24453844"

- How do I get the AQ6 to report a speed signal to the mobo so I don't have to configure the CPU_FAN header to "ignore"? The manuual says something to the effect that the alarm functions need to be configured appropriately, but I haven't been able to figure *** that means

- I could never get the PWM headers to work, despite having bought the appropriate connections. I tried (single color) LED strips from 4 different manufacturers and couldn't get any of them to work. Is this user error or is there an obscure trick to getting these ports to work?

- The Aquabus-low bus was disabled with the latest firmware. Is that port on the AQ6 imply dead or is it available as a second Aquabus-high port?

- What keyboard and mouse inputs is the AQ6 passing to the PC? Can this activity be stopped or paused so it doesn't interfere (on Win 10) with programs such as screensavers or BOINC that activate after a certain time of no keyboard/mouse activity?[/quote]
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jvillaveces*
> 
> I still haven't been able to set up my Aquaero 6 so that the CPU_FAN header sees its speed signal. I'm running Windows 10 Pro 64 bit, Asus Deluxe Z97 mobo with the latest BIOS. Here are a couple of screenshots from Aquasuite, showing my overview page and my alarm actions. What should I change to get this to work? Thanks!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> EDIT: This is the alarm configuration page for the High Flow USB, which shows there is no speed signal. I believe this is the problem. How do I activate it? It's selected in the top frame, but it appears to be off.


One thing that I see is that there is no data source for any of your alarms. Not sure what version of Aquasuite you are running?


----------



## Shoggy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jvillaveces*
> 
> I still haven't been able to set up my Aquaero 6 so that the CPU_FAN header sees its speed signal.


As mentioned before I recommend that you connect the rpm port to a fan header on the aquaero to check if it is working at all. The fan header that you chose must be assigned to a controller that is set to at least 1% of power because 0% means there is no power at all and therefor the aquaero will not check if there is a rpm signal.

The action "speed signal on" for the aquaero is enough. Your alarm settings in the mps have nothing to do with that problem.


----------



## zerophase

Is there a Linux software for the 6 xt? I know aerotools-ng for the 5.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jeanspaulo*
> 
> Hello IT Diva, I need some help with my workaround to the pwm pump mod, I couldn't find an 3.3k resistor only found a 2.2k and I'm using a single MCP655 pump its ok to use the mod with it 5.1 Zener diode, 560ohm resistor and 2.2k ??


That will still work OK.

D.


----------



## Shoggy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zerophase*
> 
> Is there a Linux software for the 6 xt? I know aerotools-ng for the 5.


http://www.overclock.net/t/1545869/aquaeronix-gnu-linux-tools-for-aquaero-5-6


----------



## jeanspaulo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> That will still work OK.
> 
> D.


Thank's Diva


----------



## killswitch73

hi

first time poster and first time watercooler

my kit so far

900D case
MSI godlike mobo
32gb crucial balistix 2400mhz
5960x cpu
1x 1TB sammy SSD
4TB Green
2TB SSHD
2TB Storage
EVGA 1600 Gold

2 x EVGA 980ti SC (ek Titan blocks)

EK EK-Dual DDC 3.2 PWM with top fix adaptor with 40cm res

EK-CoolStream PE 480 (Quad) (for bottom)

*Not Ordered yet*

Phobya G-Changer 480 V.2 - Full Copper (for top rad)

Aquacomputer aquaero 6 XT

8 x Thermaltake Riing 12 none pwm fans (3 pin) (red)

my question

im very confused to what im finding out about the controlling of the fans and the pump i would have in the aquaero 6 XT ,

iv read that i can run the fans fine through voltage means.

but then i read that i cant run the pump .and then somewhere i read that i can control both .

my objective is to set it all up so .

desktop and internet browsing running very quiet and cool and then when i game and it get hot the fans and pump turn up the more the rads and water gets hotter ..

im also confused to how i can run 3 pin fans on 4 pin pwm fan headers .

sorry for all the noob questions and this thread is way to big to read all the way through .


----------



## InfoSeeker

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> Yes that is exactly right. That is why I made mine a 300-350ish instead of a 400 because it is more accurate across the flow rates that I actually have in the system. I reckon instead of the models they have, 400, 200 & 100 they should have gone 400, 300 & 200 because for lots of people 200 is just a bit too low and a loop that could not exceed 100lph is a really rare one.
> The sensor works on a range of pressure. If that pressure range covers a smaller range of flow rate then it of course has finer resolution.
> 
> _You can read all about them in the community testing thread_, and it has the internal diameters of the different models.When I have some time I'll post a calibration for my custom one and the drill size used if anyone wants to copy it.


I have searched for 'community testing' and 'mps flow' but have not found my way to the discussion you referenced.
Can you help a lost soul with more direct navigation instructions? I am very interested.


----------



## jvillaveces

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> As mentioned before I recommend that you connect the rpm port to a fan header on the aquaero to check if it is working at all. The fan header that you chose must be assigned to a controller that is set to at least 1% of power because 0% means there is no power at all and therefor the aquaero will not check if there is a rpm signal.
> 
> The action "speed signal on" for the aquaero is enough. Your alarm settings in the mps have nothing to do with that problem.


I'm sorry, Shoggy, but I don't understand what you mean, The flow sensor has no portls labled "rpm", it's labeled "alarm". Is this what I should hook up to a free fan header on the AQ6, or should I run a cable from the AQ6 rpm port to one of its fan headers?


----------



## jvillaveces

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RDKing2*
> 
> One thing that I see is that there is no data source for any of your alarms. Not sure what version of Aquasuite you are running?


Version 2015-6. Should there be something else on those screens? Could you be kind enough to provide examples?


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *killswitch73*
> 
> hi
> 
> first time poster and first time watercooler
> 
> my kit so far
> 
> 900D case
> MSI godlike mobo
> 32gb crucial balistix 2400mhz
> 5960x cpu
> 1x 1TB sammy SSD
> 4TB Green
> 2TB SSHD
> 2TB Storage
> EVGA 1600 Gold
> 
> 2 x EVGA 980ti SC (ek Titan blocks)
> 
> EK EK-Dual DDC 3.2 PWM with top fix adaptor with 40cm res
> 
> EK-CoolStream PE 480 (Quad) (for bottom)
> 
> *Not Ordered yet*
> 
> Phobya G-Changer 480 V.2 - Full Copper (for top rad)
> 
> Aquacomputer aquaero 6 XT
> 
> 8 x Thermaltake Riing 12 none pwm fans (3 pin) (red)
> 
> my question
> 
> im very confused to what im finding out about the controlling of the fans and the pump i would have in the aquaero 6 XT ,
> 
> iv read that i can run the fans fine through voltage means.
> 
> but then i read that i cant run the pump .and then somewhere i read that i can control both .
> 
> my objective is to set it all up so .
> 
> desktop and internet browsing running very quiet and cool and then when i game and it get hot the fans and pump turn up the more the rads and water gets hotter ..
> 
> im also confused to how i can run 3 pin fans on 4 pin pwm fan headers .
> 
> sorry for all the noob questions and this thread is way to big to read all the way through .


It can control ddcs np either voltage control or pwm. In your case with the pwm ddc you should only use a pwm profile
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jvillaveces*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> As mentioned before I recommend that you connect the rpm port to a fan header on the aquaero to check if it is working at all. The fan header that you chose must be assigned to a controller that is set to at least 1% of power because 0% means there is no power at all and therefor the aquaero will not check if there is a rpm signal.
> 
> The action "speed signal on" for the aquaero is enough. Your alarm settings in the mps have nothing to do with that problem.
> 
> 
> 
> I'm sorry, Shoggy, but I don't understand what you mean, The flow sensor has no portls labled "rpm", it's labeled "alarm". Is this what I should hook up to a free fan header on the AQ6, or should I run a cable from the AQ6 rpm port to one of its fan headers?
Click to expand...

AQ6 rpm to aq6 fan channel


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *InfoSeeker*
> 
> I have searched for 'community testing' and 'mps flow' but have not found my way to the discussion you referenced.
> Can you help a lost soul with more direct navigation instructions? I am very interested.


You can't have searched that hard. If you search community testing thread its like the second result.

http://www.overclock.net/t/1501978/ocn-community-water-cooling-test-thread


----------



## jvillaveces

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> As mentioned before I recommend that you connect the rpm port to a fan header on the aquaero to check if it is working at all. The fan header that you chose must be assigned to a controller that is set to at least 1% of power because 0% means there is no power at all and therefor the aquaero will not check if there is a rpm signal.
> 
> The action "speed signal on" for the aquaero is enough. Your alarm settings in the mps have nothing to do with that problem.


OK, so I connected it to Fan 3, and set it to 100%, It shows the "fan" at 3508 rpm. So I guess the Aquaero is doing its thing, and my problem is either with the mobo header or with the cable I'm using. That should be easy enough to troubleshoot and (hopefully) fix. Thanks Shoggy!



EDIT: I put in an Aquacomputer stock cable and it's working fine, The one I removed had been re-sleeved by me because I didn't like the appearance of the AC cable, I must have done something stupid to it!


----------



## InfoSeeker

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> You can't have searched that hard. If you search community testing thread its like the second result.
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1501978/ocn-community-water-cooling-test-thread


Yes, sorry about that... I think I typo'd 'comunity'.

Lots of interesting information there... I am about 1/4 done reading the thread.

Thank you for link.


----------



## RDKing2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jvillaveces*
> 
> Version 2015-6. Should there be something else on those screens? Could you be kind enough to provide examples?


Looks like you figured it out







Anyway I am running the same version and my alarm configuration page is like this


----------



## zerophase

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1545869/aquaeronix-gnu-linux-tools-for-aquaero-5-6


Hmm, doesn't seem to have that much development.


----------



## Anateus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zerophase*
> 
> Hmm, doesn't seem to have that much development.


Well, true men (on Linux) develop their own software.. go for it


----------



## killswitch73

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> It can control ddcs np either voltage control or pwm. In your case with the pwm ddc you should only use a pwm profile
> AQ6 rpm to aq6 fan channel


so how do i connect the dual pump which has 2 x 2pin and 2 x 2 pin power , both are 4 pin plugs as in 4 pin pwm and 4 pin power molex but only 2 wires in each .

how do i connect these to the 6 XT ? when there is only 4 pin pwm . someone even said i put the pump into fan headers not pwm header .

ive asked the same question on another forum in the UK but getting answers saying i need a Poweradjust 2 cable but i dont know if i need 2 of them and how do i connect it all .

i really am a nooby at this ,i havent bought the XT yet and neither have i bought the fans , reason i want to buy the XT is to control the thermaltake riing 12 fans , all 8 of them , 4 on each 480mm rad .


----------



## Mega Man

Ok the "fat" 4 pin goes to your psu. That provides 12v and ground.

The small 4 pin is a fan header and it goes to one of the 4 fan outputs.

What I would do (and what I do) is use this cable

http://www.swiftech.com/PWMsplittercable.aspx

You can use any "pwm splitter" however I like that cable because I can monitor the rpm of the additional pump (which most pwm splitters do not allow you to do) What I do you take both pumps and plug them in.

The 4 pin goes to your aquaero the 3 pin to your motherboard fan header.

The 3 pin only monitors rpm on your mobo
The 4 pin that is connected to the Aquaero controls both pumps


----------



## jeanspaulo

Hello, sorry if its a newbie question but I coundn't find an explanation on anywhere. Whats the difference of using a Flow sensor on the First PWM port of an Aquaero 6xt or on the "Flow" Connector or on the Flow plug of an Poweradjust 3. Im using the High Flow sensor and I don't know where to plug it.


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jeanspaulo*
> 
> Hello, sorry if its a newbie question but I coundn't find an explanation on anywhere. Whats the difference of using a Flow sensor on the First PWM port of an Aquaero 6xt or on the "Flow" Connector or on the Flow plug of an Poweradjust 3. Im using the High Flow sensor and I don't know where to plug it.


Essentially there is no difference except that using fan header one as a flow port sacrifices a useful fan header.
If you have the high flow meter then plug it into the flow port. Pretty straight forward.
If you have a poweradjust and it would be easier or neater to connect the flow meter to it, instead of the Aquaero then do that. You would then just need to ensure the poweradjust is connected via Aquabus if you want to have the Aquaero monitor that meter for say, a flow alarm


----------



## Mega Man

Plug it into the flow port on the aq6


----------



## InfoSeeker

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> I've written a lot regarding the Aquaeros, the A6 in particular, regarding their PWM implementation.
> 
> The PWM version of the D5 pump, and the PWM Corsair fans have been a bit problematic.
> 
> If you do an advanced search with IT Diva as the username and PWM, Corsair as the keywords, (tick the" posts only" box, not "entire site") you'll get 3 pages or so of relevant posts.
> 
> If you do an advanced search with my name and PWM, "sink current" as the keywords, you'll get pages about PWM. (tick the "posts only" box)
> 
> A quick copy paste from one post explaining briefly how to look at PWM in a PC:
> 
> In actuality, a PC PWM controller based on the Intel PWM standard, "pushes" no power at all.
> 
> It sinks current to ground.
> 
> Each PWM controlled device is responsible for supplying its own 5V level.
> 
> Therein lies the problem as you add greater numbers of controlled devices . . . . . the amount of current that the controller has to sink to ground rises, and manipulating Ohm's law, voltage dropped equals I squared R, the drop across the protective resistors on the controller's PWM input raises the logic low voltage level that the controlled devices see above the threshold to where it isn't seen as off-time any more, and you loose progressively more low speed control as you add devices.
> 
> It's a much better analogy, and much more accurate to think of it as, "the signal current level of multiple devices overwhelms the controller," than that "the controller signal becomes too weak as more devices are added".
> 
> Darlene


Thank you D. for the search direction. I read most of the posts linked and my take-away is that the primary issue was with the Corsair PWM implementation.

The fans I am interested in are NOCTUA NF-A14 industrialPPC-2000 PWM, but they apparently have a proprietary PWM motor controller and I wonder if anyone has experience driving them with the aquaero PWM function?


----------



## fast_fate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *InfoSeeker*
> 
> Thank you D. for the search direction. I read most of the posts linked and my take-away is that the primary issue was with the Corsair PWM implementation.
> 
> The fans I am interested in are NOCTUA NF-A14 industrialPPC-2000 PWM, but they apparently have a proprietary PWM motor controller and I wonder if anyone has experience driving them with the aquaero PWM function?


Currently controlling 6 of these fans from Aquaro 5LT fan channel 4 with PWM
They are set up in 2 sets of 3 for Push/Pull and each set has it's own separate external power source power cables direct from PSU, but all are PWM controlled from Aquaero channel 4.
Full range of rpm available 200rpm - 2000 rpm = PWM from 35% to 100%.
No Problems to report









EDIT - same PSU, but not powered from Aquaero, sorry, what I typed above might have been misleading
and to hitt 2000rpm takes a little bit of over-volting









EDIT 2 - added the plot below - results from single fan only, not multiple fans connected.


----------



## InfoSeeker

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fast_fate*
> 
> Currently controlling 6 of these fans from Aquaro 5LT fan channel 4 with PWM
> They are set up in 2 sets of 3 for Push/Pull and each set has it's own separate external power source power cables direct from PSU, but all are PWM controlled from Aquaero channel 4.
> Full range of rpm available 200rpm - 2000 rpm = PWM from 35% to 100%.
> No Problems to report
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> EDIT - same PSU, but not powered from Aquaero, sorry, what I typed above might have been misleading
> and to hitt 2000rpm takes a little bit of over-volting
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> EDIT 2 - added the plot below - results from single fan only, not multiple fans connected.


Great, thank you, so nice to get real life experiences when it comes to the somewhat touchy PWM implementations.


----------



## jvillaveces

I'm about ready to finish my new build in a Phantom 630 case for my son. It would be done, but I got a leaky UT60 240, so I had to take it out and I'm waiting for the EK XE I'm replacing it with, I'm putting in an AQ6 Pro, and bought/installed an MPS 400 sensor for it. Reading up on it, I'm growing more and more convinced that the 400 won't be appropriate, because I doubt I will get flow between 200 lph and 400 lph at reasonable pump speeds (some day I will learn to do my homework before buying instead of the other way around).

How can I estimate the expected flow rate for the loop, so I can decide on the appropriate MPS flow sensor? My components:

- Aquacomputer D5 PWM (Bitspower mod kit and mod top), with Bitspower dual/single upgrade kit
- 1/2" - 3/4" flex tubing and Monsoon center fittings
- Bitspower Titan X block
- EK Supremacy EVO
- Alphacool XT 45 360 mm
- EK XE 240 mm

I have been reading the extremerigs reports on the subject, but can't seem to find the expected restrictions for these components, and my google-fu skills are proving inadequate, so any help will be much appreciated.


----------



## InfoSeeker

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jvillaveces*
> 
> I'm about ready to finish my new build in a Phantom 630 case for my son. It would be done, but I got a leaky UT60 240, so I had to take it out and I'm waiting for the EK XE I'm replacing it with, I'm putting in an AQ6 Pro, and bought/installed an MPS 400 sensor for it. Reading up on it, I'm growing more and more convinced that the 400 won't be appropriate, because I doubt I will get flow between 200 lph and 400 lph at reasonable pump speeds (some day I will learn to do my homework before buying instead of the other way around).
> 
> How can I estimate the expected flow rate for the loop, so I can decide on the appropriate MPS flow sensor? My components:
> 
> - Aquacomputer D5 PWM (Bitspower mod kit and mod top), with Bitspower dual/single upgrade kit
> - 1/2" - 3/4" flex tubing and Monsoon center fittings
> - Bitspower Titan X block
> - EK Supremacy EVO
> - Alphacool XT 45 360 mm
> - EK XE 240 mm
> 
> I have been reading the extremerigs reports on the subject, but can't seem to find the expected restrictions for these components, and my google-fu skills are proving inadequate, so any help will be much appreciated.


Though this calculator may be dated, it may give some help.

And the MPS Flow 400 is rated from 80 lph to 400 lph, so you may be OK.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jvillaveces*
> 
> I'm about ready to finish my new build in a Phantom 630 case for my son. It would be done, but I got a leaky UT60 240, so I had to take it out and I'm waiting for the EK XE I'm replacing it with, I'm putting in an AQ6 Pro, and bought/installed an MPS 400 sensor for it. Reading up on it, I'm growing more and more convinced that the 400 won't be appropriate, because I doubt I will get flow between 200 lph and 400 lph at reasonable pump speeds (some day I will learn to do my homework before buying instead of the other way around).
> 
> How can I estimate the expected flow rate for the loop, so I can decide on the appropriate MPS flow sensor? My components:
> 
> - Aquacomputer D5 PWM (Bitspower mod kit and mod top), with Bitspower dual/single upgrade kit
> - 1/2" - 3/4" flex tubing and Monsoon center fittings
> - Bitspower Titan X block
> - EK Supremacy EVO
> - Alphacool XT 45 360 mm
> - EK XE 240 mm
> 
> I have been reading the extremerigs reports on the subject, but can't seem to find the expected restrictions for these components, and my google-fu skills are proving inadequate, so any help will be much appreciated.


you need to find the curves for each component and add it up to see how much pressure will be lost at a given flow rate. But in any case don't worry. The mps 400 will be appropriate for your loop. It can read from around 0.3 GPM to up to 2 GPM (~68 lph to 454 lph). If you want to know more about it take a look here:

https://martinsliquidlab.wordpress.com/pump-planning-guide/

need to catch up with 2 weeks and hundreds of posts around ocn...Any breaking news I missed folks?


----------



## gamerking

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> you need to find the curves for each component and add it up to see how much pressure will be lost at a given flow rate. But in any case don't worry. The mps 400 will be appropriate for your loop. It can read from around 0.3 GPM to up to 2 GPM (~68 lph to 454 lph). If you want to know more about it take a look here:
> 
> https://martinsliquidlab.wordpress.com/pump-planning-guide/
> 
> need to catch up with 2 weeks and hundreds of posts around ocn...Any breaking news I missed folks?


B NEGATIVE had a case get broken from shipping damage and loop drained all over everything in it . thing its now needs new panels . not much else really


----------



## jvillaveces

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *InfoSeeker*
> 
> Though this calculator may be dated, it may give some help.
> 
> And the MPS Flow 400 is rated from 80 lph to 400 lph, so you may be OK.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> you need to find the curves for each component and add it up to see how much pressure will be lost at a given flow rate. But in any case don't worry. The mps 400 will be appropriate for your loop. It can read from around 0.3 GPM to up to 2 GPM (~68 lph to 454 lph). If you want to know more about it take a look here:
> 
> https://martinsliquidlab.wordpress.com/pump-planning-guide/
> 
> need to catch up with 2 weeks and hundreds of posts around ocn...Any breaking news I missed folks?


Thanks IS and Gabriel! +rep to both of you. It would seem I am in good shape, sometimes you get lucky!


----------



## Sem

Hi all just a quick question about the Aquaero 5/6

if i setup the fan curves by water temp up in the software can save it to the device and it will still work even if the software isn't running


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sem*
> 
> Hi all just a quick question about the Aquaero 5/6
> 
> if i setup the fan curves by water temp up in the software can save it to the device and it will still work even if the software isn't running


Yes, the software is just a programming and monitoring aide ... it is not required. The Aquaero will do its programmed job even if not connected to any PC


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jvillaveces*
> 
> I'm about ready to finish my new build in a Phantom 630 case for my son. It would be done, but I got a leaky UT60 240, so I had to take it out and I'm waiting for the EK XE I'm replacing it with, I'm putting in an AQ6 Pro, and bought/installed an MPS 400 sensor for it. Reading up on it, I'm growing more and more convinced that the 400 won't be appropriate, because I doubt I will get flow between 200 lph and 400 lph at reasonable pump speeds (some day I will learn to do my homework before buying instead of the other way around).
> 
> How can I estimate the expected flow rate for the loop, so I can decide on the appropriate MPS flow sensor? My components:
> 
> - Aquacomputer D5 PWM (Bitspower mod kit and mod top), with Bitspower dual/single upgrade kit
> - 1/2" - 3/4" flex tubing and Monsoon center fittings
> - Bitspower Titan X block
> - EK Supremacy EVO
> - Alphacool XT 45 360 mm
> - EK XE 240 mm
> 
> I have been reading the extremerigs reports on the subject, but can't seem to find the expected restrictions for these components, and my google-fu skills are proving inadequate, so any help will be much appreciated.


That loop will easily exceed 1GPM ( about 225LPH)

Unless the new Bitspower GPU blocks are suddenly very restrictive then you should be much closer to 300LPH than to 200, and maybe at very minimum speed you might get the meter to hit its minimum but one of my loops has more blocks and narrower tube and struggles to push any less than 90LPH


----------



## Sem

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> Yes, the software is just a programming and monitoring aide ... it is not required. The Aquaero will do its programmed job even if not connected to any PC


wow sounds awesome

will see if my RVE can provide similar functionality if not will pick up a 6 Pro

thanks


----------



## jvillaveces

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> That loop will easily exceed 1GPM ( about 225LPH)
> 
> Unless the new Bitspower GPU blocks are suddenly very restrictive then you should be much closer to 300LPH than to 200, and maybe at very minimum speed you might get the meter to hit its minimum but one of my loops has more blocks and narrower tube and struggles to push any less than 90LPH


Thanks for chiming in Jakus. I hope you are right, because then I would be in the best of both worlds, with both a high-flow loop and an appropriate sensor!


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jvillaveces*
> 
> Thanks for chiming in Jakus. I hope you are right, because then I would be in the best of both worlds, with both a high-flow loop and an appropriate sensor!


It is a rare loop these days that would be better off with a 200 rather than 400.

I never really understood the decision to go with the models they made. A 225lph flow has long been the agreed ideal so a 200 is immediately under that and a flow less than 80lph takes a very weak pump. At the same time very few would come close to maxing out the 400. With modern components I can't imagine a use for any model besides the 400, and would love to see what someone does with a 100.
It's the nature of restriction and water flow that sees flow rates in most water loops falling into a fairly narrow range where the 200 is too low and the 400 unnecessarily high.

My favourite meter is not actually the 400 though. It is my custom model. By taking a 200/100 and boring it's restrictor orifice out to 6.5mm you get a more accurate device with a more useful range. It falls into the gap between the 7mm 400 and 6mm 200. Naturally that means you can't use any of the default calibrations but if you want an accurate meter you need to create your own anyway.


----------



## jvillaveces

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> My favorite meter is not actually the 400 though. It is my custom model. By taking a 200 and boring it's restrictor orifice out to 6.5mm you get a more accurate device with a more useful range. It falls into the gap between the 7mm 400 and 6mm 200. Naturally that means you can't use any of the default calibrations but if you want an accurate meter you need to create your own anyway.


Sounds like a fun project... do you have calibration data for the Jakusmeter?


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jvillaveces*
> 
> Sounds like a fun project... do you have calibration data for the Jakusmeter?


I'm working on it. I can provide a cal for 10mm hard tube and 3/8 soft tube. After that I might grab some 16mm hard tube and fittings too.
The only thing is that it may not transfer super well to other devices because it will depend on how well the hole is drilled. A drill press would be best as even small differences will matter. Even so I am sure it will be better than the standard cals!


----------



## jvillaveces

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> I'm working on it. I can provide a cal for 10mm hard tube and 3/8 soft tube. After that I might grab some 16mm hard tube and fittings too.
> The only thing is that it may not transfer super well to other devices because it will depend on how well the hole is drilled. Even small differences will matter. Even so I am sure it will be better than the standard cals!


Maybe for my next build then







I'm almost done with the current one (waiting for a rad to replace a brand new UT 60 240 mm that leaked like a sieve), but otherwise complete. I used soft tubing though, haven't been brave enough to try hard acrylic yet


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jvillaveces*
> 
> Maybe for my next build then
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm almost done with the current one (waiting for a rad to replace a brand new UT 60 240 mm that leaked like a sieve), but otherwise complete. I used soft tubing though, haven't been brave enough to try hard acrylic yet


Oh man, you are missing out. Give it a go as soon as you can. Maybe even just start with a small section. No need to fully convert all at once though to get all the benefits it is best. Its easy.

It can be a bit expensive depending on how you do it but for the immediate visual improvement the cost is negligible compared to other things. Aesthetics is important to me though more than for many others.


----------



## Archea47

I finally started playing with curving my pumps and fans off Delta T:


Shown is Delta T (water temp from a protruding probe fitting in-path (-) air temp at the front intake fans), Delta T-based curve for the pumps, Delta T-based curve for the fans, the previous curve I was using scaled off package temp, and package temp itself

The graph is 10s resolution, taken while playing Pillars of Eternity. Previously my fiance was complaining of the changes in fan speed waking her up at night. The bold black line is the fan and the green the linear pump curve off Delta T, while the red line is the Package-based curve. I think the behavior toward the beginning of the graph is what she was talking about









Now to get some sleep and test with BF4 tomorrow night









Anyone braving IBT off these curves or just a 100% point controller?


----------



## Anateus

What happens if I want to get rid of that loose wire and foil (im sleeving stuff). I tore it open because I have second one.


----------



## fast_fate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anateus*
> 
> What happens if I want to get rid of that loose wire and foil (im sleeving stuff). I tore it open because I have second one.


I did a little "how I shortened and sleeved my USB cable"
Ideally you would want it looking something like this after cutting and stripping...


----------



## Anateus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fast_fate*
> 
> I did a little "how I shortened and sleeved my USB cable"
> Ideally you would want it looking something like this after cutting and stripping...


Thanks


----------



## Fflewddur

Hello,

My build has been going along slowly. I have recently got to the point where I have been able to plug in and attach the Aquaero 6 into the build.

However I have a question. I have plugged in the wires, but have not yet turned on the system. I have noticed where I plug in the molex connector into the A6 that a part of the molex plug touches the passive heat sink (See Picture below)



What I am wondering is if the heat sink is going to get hot enough that I need to worry about it melting the plastic and then shorting the A6, or if its fine, or I need to get some type of 90 degree molex connector?

Thanks,

Fflewddur


----------



## fast_fate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fflewddur*
> 
> Hello,
> 
> My build has been going along slowly. I have recently got to the point where I have been able to plug in and attach the Aquaero 6 into the build.
> 
> However I have a question. I have plugged in the wires, but have not yet turned on the system. I have noticed where I plug in the molex connector into the A6 that a part of the molex plug touches the passive heat sink (See Picture below)
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What I am wondering is if the heat sink is going to get hot enough that I need to worry about it melting the plastic and then shorting the A6, or if its fine, or I need to get some type of 90 degree molex connector?
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Fflewddur


30 seconds with a file on the connector should alleviate all concerns


----------



## Mega Man

nice snap on !~
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fflewddur*
> 
> Hello,
> 
> My build has been going along slowly. I have recently got to the point where I have been able to plug in and attach the Aquaero 6 into the build.
> 
> However I have a question. I have plugged in the wires, but have not yet turned on the system. I have noticed where I plug in the molex connector into the A6 that a part of the molex plug touches the passive heat sink (See Picture below)
> 
> 
> 
> What I am wondering is if the heat sink is going to get hot enough that I need to worry about it melting the plastic and then shorting the A6, or if its fine, or I need to get some type of 90 degree molex connector?
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Fflewddur


never an issue cool to the touch


----------



## InfoSeeker

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fflewddur*
> 
> Hello,
> 
> My build has been going along slowly. I have recently got to the point where I have been able to plug in and attach the Aquaero 6 into the build.
> 
> However I have a question. I have plugged in the wires, but have not yet turned on the system. I have noticed where I plug in the molex connector into the A6 that a part of the molex plug touches the passive heat sink (See Picture below)
> 
> 
> 
> What I am wondering is if the heat sink is going to get hot enough that I need to worry about it melting the plastic and then shorting the A6, or if its fine, or I need to get some type of 90 degree molex connector?
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Fflewddur


It looks like you doubled-up on heat sinks... you have both the aquaero 6 heatsink and the aquaero 5 heatsink installed.


----------



## Shoggy

New aquasuite 2015-9 is available


----------



## Nornam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> New aquasuite 2015-9 is available


Downloaded & using..... All Is running well with the New Nam Aquasuite install..... Nice One AC









Nam....


----------



## InfoSeeker

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> New aquasuite 2015-9 is available


EDIT: aquacomputer is ahead of me on this - sabastian advised prior to installing the firmware, the aquaero saves a backup to:
"C:\ProgramData\aquasuite-data\profiles\aquaero_profile_2015-10-09__09-03-22_backup.pro.
It appears there is a popup advising you of this but in my excitement I missed it.











Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Be sure to *EXPORT ACTIVE SETTINGS TO FILE IN THE AQUAERO BEFORE UPDATING*.
Once you update t0 2015/9, a firmware update for the aquaero is required before you can use it, and your existing profile will get wiped. If saved, the profile can be reloaded after the firmware upgrade.




For the rest, the upgrade is a great improvement in the UI, and should reduce the learning curve for new users.


----------



## DanBr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *InfoSeeker*
> 
> EDIT: aquacomputer is ahead of me on this - sabastian advised prior to installing the firmware, the aquaero saves a backup to:
> "C:\ProgramData\aquasuite-data\profiles\aquaero_profile_2015-10-09__09-03-22_backup.pro.
> It appears there is a popup advising you of this but in my excitement I missed it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Be sure to *EXPORT ACTIVE SETTINGS TO FILE IN THE AQUAERO BEFORE UPDATING*.
> Once you update t0 2015/9, a firmware update for the aquaero is required before you can use it, and your existing profile will get wiped. If saved, the profile can be reloaded after the firmware upgrade.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For the rest, the upgrade is a great improvement in the UI, and should reduce the learning curve for new users.


So is this a firmware update or a reinstall of the Aqausuite software
I have exported my 2 profiles, is there any thing else I need to save before updating
I think I am running 2015-6, but I just installed it early Sept

Thanks


----------



## Shoggy

Just select that you want to keep your data when updating. The data of the device is saved automatically before you perform the firmware update. You can load it back to the device from the system tab when the update is done.


----------



## DanBr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> Just select that you want to keep your data when updating. The data of the device is saved automatically before you perform the firmware update. You can load it back to the device from the system tab when the update is done.




what is the difference between a "page" file and a "pro" file
Is .pro file a profile
Are the profile pages the only things I need to back up?
I see there is a database backup file that was created when I first installed
How to I make a current backup of the database
Does the profile backups have all my controllers, alarm configs, etc or do I copy the database file back in after upgrading to 2015-9


----------



## DanBr

what is the vertical red line on these controllers for
I can move them but they don't seem to affect anything.
thanks
dan


----------



## Jakusonfire

The red line is startup temp. When the system is powered on the controller will not kick in until the value reaches startup temp. However if while running the temp drops below startup temp it still follows the curve.


----------



## Mega Man

AFAIK that line is just visual for you to see that temp how fast your fan (or w.e.) will run at that temp


----------



## DanBr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> The red line is startup temp. When the system is powered on the controller will not kick in until the value reaches startup temp. However if while running the temp drops below startup temp it still follows the curve.


thanks,
dan


----------



## wa3pnt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DanBr*
> 
> How to I make a current backup of the database
> Does the profile backups have all my controllers, alarm configs, etc or do I copy the database file back in after upgrading to 2015-9


I haven't seen the answer to the question regarding how to create a current backup of the database.

RodeoGeorge


----------



## Ironsmack

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wa3pnt*
> 
> I haven't seen the answer to the question regarding how to create a current backup of the database.
> 
> RodeoGeorge


I go do the following:

-Go to system
-Go Export active settings to file
-And save it to whatever folder you want
-Then uninstall and reinstall new Aquasuite
-Follow the first 3 steps
-Then import settings

Never had any problems doing it this way.


----------



## siltsunrise

Hi, I am figuring out how to use the software.

Can anyone recommend a good set of numbers to use for min/max temps and power % for a curve controller profile?
Also curious about the individual min max power settings best to use in the fan section.

Should I run the pump on a separate profile, and what is a good startup boost setting for it?

I am jjust seeking the quietest basic running state without fans ramping up and down.

I get the feeling my pump and or fans have some kind of min voltage action going on.I just set min temps and power down pretty low all around and fans and pump shut themselves completely off, then suddenly ramp up now and again. Not ideal, to say the least. Can't quite figure out what is going on with this all.

Thanks for any help and insight into how all this stuff clicks. All new to me.


----------



## LostParticle

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wa3pnt*
> 
> I haven't seen the answer to the question regarding how to create a current backup of the database.
> 
> RodeoGeorge


Today, when I have installed the latest Aquasuite and performed the required firmware update my profile was automatically backed up during the update, as a pop-up message in German "informed" me. Then I went to the following screen and loaded it. This is found in Aquaero / System / Settings and Profiles.



@Shoggy , can you please clarify / confirm to us what does that vertical red line inquired in post #5702 do?

*EDIT:*

Yes, it seems Jakusonfire is right










Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!







Thank you.

PS: the new Aquasuite is great!


----------



## InfoSeeker

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *siltsunrise*
> 
> Hi, I just got an aquero 6 xt with a PC I bought, and am struggling to figure the software out. The idiotic company offers no manual or tutorial whatsoever, that I can find anywhere. Hello aquacomputer, if you are reading this, get a clue...
> 
> I am using hwinfo to try to feed the data in yet see no options for using it when I set up a curve controller.
> All I see in the data source options there are a bunch of Software sensor entries 1 - 8, all at 50.0 degrees C, an mps1 internal, and Fan amplifier 1-4, showing real readings.
> What do all these mean?
> 
> I do seem to see good data from hwinfo coming in when I set up a customized overview page.
> 
> Any idea how I get this info to where I can use it setting up curves?
> 
> I am esp. interested in trying to find a minimum setup to prevent the pump and/or fans from constantly cranking up and down, while keeping it as quiet as possible. It is doing that up and down now on desktop use.
> 
> I have a dozen other questions, but will start with that.
> 
> Thanks for any help!


The aquaero/aquasuite manual.

To use HWiNFO sensor data in the aquaero, you must make a 'Software Sensor':
Under the aquaero tab click the Sensors tab,
then on the right panel click on Software temperature sensors,
select one of the temperature sensors and name it appropriately,
select Use sensor with Aqua Computer Service,
click on Select data source,
this will open a box where you can select the desired sensor from HWiNFO


Now that you have a Software sensor from HWiNFO, you need to use it.
Under the aquaero tab click the Controllers tab,
add and select the controller type you want (upper right of panel),
click on the encircled + in the Data source box (left side of controller),
this opens a box with available sources, find the Software sensor you added,
set up the controller (central part)
add the devices you want the controller to control (right side)


Please be aware, the aquaero & aquasuite are very powerful and thus have a fairly steep learning curve.
I suggest you play with the options and see what you can learn... have fun.

EDIT: I see from your location that you are in Germany, so this manual is probably better for you.


----------



## IamSSD

I really want that 5/6 XT, everywhere I look the front plate is silver not black, am I missing something or have I been too lazy looking around online perhaps?

Probably lazy, will dig deeper.









Cool thread by the way, impressive toy/tool


----------



## InfoSeeker

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IamSSD*
> 
> I really want that 5/6 XT, everywhere I look the front plate is silver not black, am I missing something or have I been too lazy looking around online perhaps?
> 
> Probably lazy, will dig deeper.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cool thread by the way, impressive toy/tool


Is THIS what you are looking for? It is an add-on/upgrade.


----------



## jvillaveces

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *siltsunrise*
> 
> Hi, I am figuring out how to use the software.
> 
> 1. Can anyone recommend a good set of numbers to use for min/max temps and power % for a curve controller profile?
> 
> 2. Also curious about the individual min max power settings best to use in the fan section.
> 
> 3. Should I run the pump on a separate profile, and what is a good startup boost setting for it?
> 
> I am jjust seeking the quietest basic running state without fans ramping up and down.
> 
> I get the feeling my pump and or fans have some kind of min voltage action going on.I just set min temps and power down pretty low all around and fans and pump shut themselves completely off, then suddenly ramp up now and again. Not ideal, to say the least. Can't quite figure out what is going on with this all.
> 
> Thanks for any help and insight into how all this stuff clicks. All new to me.


1. For your minimum, select something below your loop-ambient delta at startup. For example, if your l-a delta is 3C, choose 1.5C. For your maximum, choose the a-l at which you want all your fans going full blast, something you would only reach after benchmarking for a while or gaming hard for, say, 30 minutes. Maybe something between 8.5C and 10C? It really depends on your loop. BTW, you want to have an "ambient" temperature sensor measuring air before your system warms it up, and at least one measuring coolant temperature, then create a virtual sensor with the delta between those two. That is the ideal sensor to drive your curve controllers

2. For the minimum and maximum voltage or power settings for your fans, look at the technical information supplied by your manufacturers. That information is usually right on the box (in some cases even on the label), and you can also probably find it online

3. I generally don't see the value of putting your pump on a curve, I would advise you to set it at a value where you have enough flow with tolerable noise, and just leave it there. That setting would be the same in all your profiles, if you end up having more than one.


----------



## siltsunrise

Quoting above. Thanks. I actually wiped out all those questions, and rewrote it. Don't know how you managed to quote the old stuff. ??
I did finally figure out how to choose the data to use. Not very intuitive to me. Had to right click one of those software thingies.

I got it going, now, as I edited my quote to say earlier, am trying to figure good numbers to use on the curve. See above, if interested.


----------



## InfoSeeker

OK, here is my dumb question of the day... referencing the advanced, highly technical drawing below,

Is having part of the return line above the reservoir level an issue?
And, if the first part is not an issue, would the level sensor MPS 40 read the water column in the reservoir or the highest point in the loop?


----------



## DanBr

if I change global settings to Fahrenheit, Aquasuite puts the decimal point in the wrong place so my delta temps ( water temp minus ambient air) is screwed up
for example if the water temp is 73.5 and ambient air is 71.6 the virtual temp sensor shows 19 instead of 1.9.
It is incorrect for all the virtual sensors but the actual sensors show correctly. It just cannot do the subtraction correctly

Maybe tomorrow when I upgrade to 2015-9 that will work


----------



## InfoSeeker

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DanBr*
> 
> if I change global settings to Fahrenheit, Aquasuite puts the decimal point in the wrong place so my delta temps ( water temp minus ambient air) is screwed up
> for example if the water temp is 73.5 and ambient air is 71.6 the virtual temp sensor shows 19 instead of 1.9.
> It is incorrect for all the virtual sensors but the actual sensors show correctly. It just cannot do the subtraction correctly
> 
> Maybe tomorrow when I upgrade to 2015-9 that will work


Don't bring this up in the aquacomputer forum









16 Nov 2012
17 Mar 2014

Only work-around appears to be to switch to Centigrade. Though Kelvin may work, didn't try it.


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *siltsunrise*
> 
> Hi, I am figuring out how to use the software.
> 
> Can anyone recommend a good set of numbers to use for min/max temps and power % for a curve controller profile?
> Also curious about the individual min max power settings best to use in the fan section.
> 
> Should I run the pump on a separate profile, and what is a good startup boost setting for it?
> 
> I am jjust seeking the quietest basic running state without fans ramping up and down.
> 
> I get the feeling my pump and or fans have some kind of min voltage action going on.I just set min temps and power down pretty low all around and fans and pump shut themselves completely off, then suddenly ramp up now and again. Not ideal, to say the least. Can't quite figure out what is going on with this all.
> 
> Thanks for any help and insight into how all this stuff clicks. All new to me.


There is a myriad ways to set up curve controllers but I'll lay out what I find easiest.

First you need to create a sensor that you want to use to base the controller from. A coolant temp, delta temp, etc

Then you want to set the min and max speeds on the fans you will assign to that controller. Adjust the fans to a quiet speed and set that as min, then adjust them to as loud as you want them and set that as max.

With the pc idling and fans at min note the sensor temp and set that as the base of the curve, or 0%.
Then play a game for half an hour or so or use some sort of intensive load for a while with the fans at max speed, note the temp and use that as the top of the curve controller or 100%.
By adjusting the fan min and mix speeds earlier it means we can use a simple 0 to 100% curve controller, without trying to set min & max speeds in the controller itself.

Your done. You can then make small adjustments to min and max speeds of the fans or adjust the curve controller a degree or so either way if you aren't happy with it, but it should smoothly adjust the fan speeds based on how hard the system is working, slowly ramping up to full speed and slowly cooling down to idle speeds.


----------



## Shoggy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DanBr*
> 
> 
> 
> what is the difference between a "page" file and a "pro" file
> Is .pro file a profile
> Are the profile pages the only things I need to back up?
> I see there is a database backup file that was created when I first installed
> How to I make a current backup of the database
> Does the profile backups have all my controllers, alarm configs, etc or do I copy the database file back in after upgrading to 2015-9


.pro = profile settings from the device
.page = an overview page from the aquasuite software

If you do an upgrade installation there is no need to save any of these files. While installation you only have to select that you want to keep your settings. The current aquasuite also performs an automatically backup of your device settings before it does the firmware update.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DanBr*
> 
> 
> what is the vertical red line on these controllers for
> I can move them but they don't seem to affect anything.
> thanks
> dan


The red line is the starting value. If the controller works at the left side from this line it will have no effect on the output power. As soon as it crosses the line, the controller will start to work with an output.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *InfoSeeker*
> 
> OK, here is my dumb question of the day... referencing the advanced, highly technical drawing below,
> 
> Is having part of the return line above the reservoir level an issue?
> And, if the first part is not an issue, would the level sensor MPS 40 read the water column in the reservoir or the highest point in the loop?


That will not work correctly since your bypass sits into a line where the water is pushed through by the pump so it will also affect the pressure sensitive membrane inside the sensor. You should connect it in a "passive" way. Your reservoir also needs a pressure equalization membrane at its top or you have to connect the high port of the sensor to the top of the reservoir.


----------



## InfoSeeker

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> That will not work correctly since your bypass sits into a line where the water is pushed through by the pump so it will also affect the pressure sensitive membrane inside the sensor. You should connect it in a "passive" way..


Thank you Shoggy, that confirms my concern.


----------



## DanBr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *InfoSeeker*
> 
> Don't bring this up in the aquacomputer forum
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 16 Nov 2012
> 17 Mar 2014
> 
> Only work-around appears to be to switch to Centigrade. Though Kelvin may work, didn't try it.


thanks


----------



## Mega Man

Huh I had no idea about the red line. That is awesome


----------



## InfoSeeker

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> Huh I had no idea about the red line. That is awesome


If you click on the "Manual setup" option, you can specify the value precisely.


----------



## InfoSeeker

If I need a short extension for an aquacomputer RGB illumination module, just about any 4 pin PWM extension cable should work, yes?


----------



## Mega Man

Correct


----------



## siltsunrise

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> There is a myriad ways to set up curve controllers but I'll lay out what I find easiest...


Thanks, finally getting the hang of it.

One more question.
My pump seems to cut out at a certain voltage. Is that normal?
What is a general safe minimum speed or voltage to run a pump at?

Thanks again


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *siltsunrise*
> 
> Thanks, finally getting the hang of it.
> 
> One more question.
> My pump seems to cut out at a certain voltage. Is that normal?
> What is a general safe minimum speed or voltage to run a pump at?
> 
> Thanks again


That would depend on the pump, but mostly they have higher start voltages than fans. 6 - 8V is common.


----------



## fat4l

Hello all.
I have a few questions regarding Aquaero 6 XT/Pro.

I'm about to buy one(either XT or Pro) so I was wondering if this controller works with EK-XTOP Dual DDC 3.2 PWM (incl. 2x pump) and which connectors(on aquaero) I have to use for these pumps ? These pumps have 2xmolex + 2x 4 pin pwm(1 pin only each).



Next question is, the maximum wattage per channel is 30W. How much is it with Aqua Computer Passive Cooler for Aquaero 6 - Black ? Does anyone know ?

*I'm using:*
8x Corsair SP120 High Performance Edition - 0.18A
1x Corsair AF140 - 0.1A
2x Corsair SP140 LED - 0.26A
8x Bitfenix Spectre Pro 230mm LED - 0.41A
+
2x DDC pump(mentioned above) - 18W each but powered by molex

How would I plug it ?









Last question is, I can set it to work with Aida64 and make it autoregulate fans/pumps according to temps right ?

Thanks!


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fat4l*
> 
> Hello all.
> I have a few questions regarding Aquaero 6 XT/Pro.
> 
> I'm about to buy one(either XT or Pro) so I was wondering if this controller works with EK-XTOP Dual DDC 3.2 PWM (incl. 2x pump) and which connectors(on aquaero) I have to use for these pumps ? These pumps have 2xmolex + 2x 4 pin pwm(1 pin only each).
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next question is, the maximum wattage per channel is 30W. How much is it with Aqua Computer Passive Cooler for Aquaero 6 - Black ? Does anyone know ?
> 
> *I'm using:*
> 8x Corsair SP120 High Performance Edition - 0.18A
> 1x Corsair AF140 - 0.1A
> 2x Corsair SP140 LED - 0.26A
> 8x Bitfenix Spectre Pro 230mm LED - 0.41A
> +
> 2x DDC pump(mentioned above) - 18W each but powered by molex
> 
> How would I plug it ?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Last question is, I can set it to work with Aida64 and make it autoregulate fans/pumps according to temps right ?
> 
> Thanks!


You'll want to get a splitter cable for the pumps like this one:

http://www.performance-pcs.com/pwm-cables/new-swiftech-pwm-splitter-cable.html

The primary connector, the one with all 4 pins wired at the female end, goes to one of the fan channels on the Aquaero,

You'll need to set that channel for PWM

The 2 male ends connect to the pumps' female connectors,

As far as controlling pump speed based on temps,

Probably the most effective way to do that is to use the same virtual sensor setup that you use to control your fans based on delta t . . .

Have a step controller for the pump that kicks them up from low speed first, then bring up the fan speed progressively with a curve controller.

More likely you'll be fine with a preset controller for the pump which will be a set-and-forget speed setting, and then control the fan speeds based on delta t.

Darlene
The secondary female connector can, optionally, go to the mobo's CPU fan header so you don't need to set it to ignore CPU fan error in bios, and it also gives you a way to monitor the speed of the second pump..


----------



## DanBr

Installed 2015-9 and I notice that I no longer get the green arrow indicator when I click on the "Save icon" that is next to the "system icon" in any of the choices. It does nothing if you click on "Save"


----------



## jsutter71

for people using the RGB illumination module what is the best way to mount this. The Aqua computer site says to purchase the Illumination insert gasket, but please share other options if any.


----------



## Mega Man

You mean the rgb led or farbwerk?

Led is just drill a home and use an appropriate led mount or any other way you want.

Farbwerk is 4 holes either drill them out and mount or iirc you can use the power adjustable 5.25 panel


----------



## wa3pnt

FARBWERK Question

The FARBWERK is a 3 pin Aquabus device.
The daisy chain headers on the FARBWERK are 4 pin connections.
The MPS Devices can utilize the 4 pin Aquabus Cable to supply the required 5V.
My Aquabus cabling will run Aquaero 6XT High Speed header > FARBWERK > MPS400.

Does anyone know if the 4th pin on the FARBWERK is bridged to couple a 5V input to the other header?

RodeoGeorge


----------



## jvillaveces

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> You mean the rgb led or farbwerk?
> 
> Led is just drill a home and use an appropriate led mount or any other way you want.
> 
> Farbwerk is 4 holes either drill them out and mount or iirc you can use the power adjustable 5.25 panel


I ended up mounting my Farbwerk in a frontplate, along with a Power Adjust. Before that, I used 4 small magnets, one under each mounting screw of the Farbwerk, to attach it to my motherboard plate (there was just enough space between the mobo and the PSU) without drilling any holes, and just routed the cables through an appropriate hole. It worked and looked OK until I moved it to its permanent home in the front plate.


----------



## alstorm

Has anyone replaced the little red or blue indicator LEDS on the front of the Poweradjusts or fabwerks devices?

I saw somewhere that Shoggy said they were 2mm (I think) and obviously they are the sort of "top hat" design looking at them.

*But does anyone know the details electrical characteristics needed? Forward voltage, current etc. ??*

I am thinking of replacing mine with white LED's in the current build, and want to ensure I get the right kind of replacement


----------



## Archea47

I noticed/remembered: there's a flashing red light on my Aquaero, somewhere near the Aquabus ports. Is it an alarm, and if so how do I check & cLear it?


----------



## Shoggy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DanBr*
> 
> Installed 2015-9 and I notice that I no longer get the green arrow indicator when I click on the "Save icon" that is next to the "system icon" in any of the choices. It does nothing if you click on "Save"


Yes, that is correct. We removed this since it does not provide any real feedback. The green arrow was only a static animation that was played as soon as you press the button - no matter if the data was stored or not. Since we can not check if the data was transfered successfully we decided to remove this (maybe) misleading arrow.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wa3pnt*
> 
> My Aquabus cabling will run Aquaero 6XT High Speed header > FARBWERK > MPS400.
> 
> Does anyone know if the 4th pin on the FARBWERK is bridged to couple a 5V input to the other header?


The headers just forward the original signal so it will work. But the aquaero will not add any voltage on its own, son in the end it will be always the aquaero that provides the power for the mps 400 sensor.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alstorm*
> 
> But does anyone know the details electrical characteristics needed? Forward voltage, current etc. ??


You can search for Kingbright L-13QBD-D. This is the original LED.


----------



## Mega Man

Tyvm Shoggy for the led mn


----------



## jvillaveces

The upgrade to Aquasuite 2015-9 didn't go that well for me:
- All my software sensors (from HWinfo) were renamed back to "software sensor 1", software sensor 2", etc
- All my virtual sensors disappeared
- My information page spouted three blank objects in random locations
- My fan settings reverted to default, and my curve controller disappeared
- My log data chart became blank

I started fixing these issues, which was annoying but not catastrophic because I knew exactly how to re-create all the lost content. My last step was to fix the log data chart, which still included as data sources the now defunct sensors (I changed them slightly from their previous names), by deleting the "old" sensors and adding the "new" ones. As soon as I hit the save icon, Aquasuite crashed. I attempted to restart it, and it crashed again as soon as the display got to the bottom of my information page, which includes the chart. So, I restarted the computer, Aquasuite loaded automatically with Windows as it is supposed to, and again, the moment the blank chart appeared, Aquasuite crashed.

Even on 2015-6, Aquasuite had a habit of crashing whenever I tried to edit the chart. Upon restarting, the chart would be blank. After a few repetitions, the changes would take hold, but in the meantime Aquasuite would be running, just with a blank chart. This time around, it simply won't run. Fortunately, the Aquaero took the changes before the problem occurred, so my system is functional, but no Aquasuite.

Any suggestions?


----------



## Mega Man

Did you back up your settings?


----------



## jaganram

Completely new to Aquaero. Installed my Aquaero 6 & have some questions.

Can I plug the EK 3.2 Pump directly to the header in Aquaero? Also have around 7 EK Vardar fans connected to a 8 way splitter + 3 Corsair SF fans which I need to connect as well.

Tried Reading the instructions which came with the controller and it confused me even more. I want to control all those Vardar speeds as it's on my rad. Any advise would be great


----------



## Mega Man

you will need a PWM splitter for the fans make sure your not pulling more then 2.5a from them ( look at the sticker for one of the fans and it will have an amp rating IE 1.5a =1.5 amps ect

but you should be fine to connect all fans to one header ( fan )

the pump can also be attached directly to a fan header as well


----------



## jaganram

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> you will need a PWM splitter for the fans make sure your not pulling more then 2.5a from them ( look at the sticker for one of the fans and it will have an amp rating IE 1.5a =1.5 amps ect
> 
> but you should be fine to connect all fans to one header ( fan )
> 
> the pump can also be attached directly to a fan header as well


Ok i will connect the pump to one of the fan header in Aquaero.
3 Corsair fans I can use the EK 3 way splitter though

For the Rad fans i connected 7 of my EK Vardar to a 8 way splitter which is powered by a HDD cable. So I can directly connect that splitter to the Aquaero? Will check about the power draw like you have told me.

How much max power I can draw from a single fan header in Aquaero?

This the 8 way splitter I got http://www.performance-pcs.com/modmytoys-4-pin-pwm-low-profile-power-distribution-pcb-8-way-block.html

Thanks


----------



## Mega Man

if powered externally you dont need to worry about power draw, you are fine , but to answer your question to power them via the aquaero 2.5a max *edit with heatsink !~


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jaganram*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> you will need a PWM splitter for the fans make sure your not pulling more then 2.5a from them ( look at the sticker for one of the fans and it will have an amp rating IE 1.5a =1.5 amps ect
> 
> but you should be fine to connect all fans to one header ( fan )
> 
> the pump can also be attached directly to a fan header as well
> 
> 
> 
> Ok i will connect the pump to one of the fan header in Aquaero.
> 3 Corsair fans I can use the EK 3 way splitter though
> 
> For the Rad fans i connected 7 of my EK Vardar to a 8 way splitter which is powered by a HDD cable. So I can directly connect that splitter to the Aquaero? Will check about the power draw like you have told me.
> 
> How much max power I can draw from a single fan header in Aquaero?
> 
> This the 8 way splitter I got http://www.performance-pcs.com/modmytoys-4-pin-pwm-low-profile-power-distribution-pcb-8-way-block.html
> 
> Thanks
Click to expand...

The modmytoys splitters have to have the PCB tach trace cut after the first port, or the tach pins cut off all but one port since you can only have 1 fan's tach signal coming back the controller.

The Swiftech splitter is better as it has only one port with the tach pin connected back to its line to the controller, so no mod necessary.

http://www.performance-pcs.com/pwm-cables/swiftech-8-way-pwm-splitter-box-sata.html

Darlene


----------



## jaganram

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> The modmytoys splitters have to have the PCB tach trace cut after the first port, or the tach pins cut off all but one port since you can only have 1 fan's tach signal coming back the controller.
> 
> The Swiftech splitter is better as it has only one port with the tach pin connected back to its line to the controller, so no mod necessary.
> 
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/pwm-cables/swiftech-8-way-pwm-splitter-box-sata.html
> 
> Darlene


I need to cut out the PCB itself ? Can you explain me a bit which one i need to do. I have 7 fans which is going through that splitter.

yes the Swiftech splitter is nice i will get it soon and replace these.


----------



## TDEUS

Thought about investing into a Aqua Computer aquaero 5 LT.
My concern is, I have two groups of PWM Fans that I want too Hook up to this thing and a D5 PWM Pump.
Is this controller compatible with PWM
2x Vardar 120 F4 PWM (on EK 240PE Radiator)
2x Noctua NF P14 140mm PWM (on EK 280 CE Radiator)
1x D5 Pump PWM
2x Silent Wings 2 (no PWM)
can the Aqua Computer aquaero 5 LT handle those fans (in these groups)

Cheers
Tdeus


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TDEUS*
> 
> Thought about investing into a Aqua Computer aquaero 5 LT.
> My concern is, I have two groups of PWM Fans that I want too Hook up to this thing and a D5 PWM Pump.
> Is this controller compatible with PWM
> 2x Vardar 120 F4 PWM (on EK 240PE Radiator)
> 2x Noctua NF P14 140mm PWM (on EK 280 CE Radiator)
> 1x D5 Pump PWM
> 2x Silent Wings 2 (no PWM)
> can the Aqua Computer aquaero 5 LT handle those fans (in these groups)
> 
> Cheers
> Tdeus


The Aquaero 5 series only has 1 channel that's PWM capable.

You'll need a 6 series to have all channels PWM capable.

If it's any other PWM D5 than the one specifically from Aqucomputer, you'll need a little mod for it to work with the Aquaeros.

Darlene


----------



## Ninhalem

If you want different speeds on those 2 groups then no the 5 LT can't handle that to my knowledge. There is 1 PWM fan header on the 5 LT. I would recommend you take a look at the 8-Way PWM splitter from Swiftech to combine all the PWM fans into 1 group to be controlled by the 5 LT's single PWM header. You could run the non-PWM fans off the other fan headers on the 5 LT that are not PWM.

Or you could take a look at the Aquaero 6.

Hope this helps.


----------



## Archea47

As Diva and Ninhalem mentioned the 5 only has one PWM output

If you want to run all the fans and pumps at the same PWM duty cycle off the same controller/curve then the 5LT should work. It's OK that the pumps and fans have different speeds (maybe some outlier use case caveats) - you'll be controlling them by % not by speed

Diva's being modest regarding the PWM D5 mod - it works (my two EK D5s running this way off a 2way PWM splitter) and is known around here as the 'Diva Mod'
http://www.overclock.net/t/1474470/ocn-aquaero-owners-club/2640#post_23204480
http://www.overclock.net/t/1474470/ocn-aquaero-owners-club/50#post_21956203


----------



## TDEUS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> The Aquaero 5 series only has 1 channel that's PWM capable.
> 
> You'll need a 6 series to have all channels PWM capable.
> 
> If it's any other PWM D5 than the one specifically from Aqucomputer, you'll need a little mod for it to work with the Aquaeros.
> 
> Darlene


I do not have the space for the A6. Check my build log. I'm in a fractial Node 804 without 5,25" drive bays.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ninhalem*
> 
> If you want different speeds on those 2 groups then no the 5 LT can't handle that to my knowledge. There is 1 PWM fan header on the 5 LT. I would recommend you take a look at the 8-Way PWM splitter from Swiftech to combine all the PWM fans into 1 group to be controlled by the 5 LT's single PWM header. You could run the non-PWM fans off the other fan headers on the 5 LT that are not PWM.
> 
> Or you could take a look at the Aquaero 6.
> 
> Hope this helps.


I want to run the 2 Fan groups separately + Pump. I would't mind putting everything to one groupe if they were all the same Fans and without the pump, but they're not. So I need/want 3 separate channels.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Archea47*
> 
> As Diva and Ninhalem mentioned the 5 only has one PWM output
> 
> If you want to run all the fans and pumps at the same PWM duty cycle off the same controller/curve then the 5LT should work. It's OK that the pumps and fans have different speeds (maybe some outlier use case caveats) - you'll be controlling them by % not by speed
> 
> Diva's being modest regarding the PWM D5 mod - it works (my two EK D5s running this way off a 2way PWM splitter) and is known around here as the 'Diva Mod'
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1474470/ocn-aquaero-owners-club/2640#post_23204480
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1474470/ocn-aquaero-owners-club/50#post_21956203


I could handle that mod, but yea, it doesn't look too easy









FYI: At the moment I'm runnning this setup off my CPU PWM header for the pump, and one GPU fan controller PWM/mod for all the four PWM fans (Via 4-way splitter +molex) But I want to be able to control everything at one place. So is there any kind of fan controller that could handle that. Isn't it possible to run the PWM fans off of voltage regulated headers, without the PWM signal?

EDIT: Just checked with my old Boxed Intel CPU Fan on an old PSU, I can run that one off of 5 volts without having the PWM signal pluged and it works fine, so shouldn't I in theory be able to do the same thing on the A5LT?


----------



## jvillaveces

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> Did you back up your settings?


If I had I wouldn't be in this quandary. I read Shoggy's pust telling someone else to just choose to save the existing settings, and went with that, instead of being careful and methodical -- funny how the corner-cutting approach always yields the same results when it comes to PC stuff.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TDEUS*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> The Aquaero 5 series only has 1 channel that's PWM capable.
> 
> You'll need a 6 series to have all channels PWM capable.
> 
> If it's any other PWM D5 than the one specifically from Aqucomputer, you'll need a little mod for it to work with the Aquaeros.
> 
> Darlene
> 
> 
> 
> *I do not have the space for the A6. Check my build log. I'm in a fractial Node 804 without 5,25" drive bays.
> *
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ninhalem*
> 
> If you want different speeds on those 2 groups then no the 5 LT can't handle that to my knowledge. There is 1 PWM fan header on the 5 LT. I would recommend you take a look at the 8-Way PWM splitter from Swiftech to combine all the PWM fans into 1 group to be controlled by the 5 LT's single PWM header. You could run the non-PWM fans off the other fan headers on the 5 LT that are not PWM.
> 
> Or you could take a look at the Aquaero 6.
> 
> Hope this helps.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> I want to run the 2 Fan groups separately + Pump. I would't mind putting everything to one groupe if they were all the same Fans and without the pump, but they're not. So I need/want 3 separate channels.
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Archea47*
> 
> As Diva and Ninhalem mentioned the 5 only has one PWM output
> 
> If you want to run all the fans and pumps at the same PWM duty cycle off the same controller/curve then the 5LT should work. It's OK that the pumps and fans have different speeds (maybe some outlier use case caveats) - you'll be controlling them by % not by speed
> 
> Diva's being modest regarding the PWM D5 mod - it works (my two EK D5s running this way off a 2way PWM splitter) and is known around here as the 'Diva Mod'
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1474470/ocn-aquaero-owners-club/2640#post_23204480
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1474470/ocn-aquaero-owners-club/50#post_21956203
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> I could handle that mod, but yea, it doesn't look too easy
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> FYI: At the moment I'm runnning this setup off my CPU PWM header for the pump, and one GPU fan controller PWM/mod for all the four PWM fans (Via 4-way splitter +molex) But I want to be able to control everything at one place. So is there any kind of fan controller that could handle that. Isn't it possible to run the PWM fans off of voltage regulated headers, without the PWM signal?
> 
> EDIT: Just checked with my old Boxed Intel CPU Fan on an old PSU, I can run that one off of 5 volts without having the PWM signal pluged and it works fine, so shouldn't I in theory be able to do the same thing on the A5LT?
Click to expand...

You could take the display off the front of an A6 and use it just like a 5LT and mount it anywhere you can squeeze it in.

Expensive solution, but an excellent one.

D.


----------



## electro2u

With my MPS400 it seems like I can't use a custom curve without having USB connected. Is that correct?

With it set up priority to Aquabus I get a reading under the flow sensors tab, but the choices for curves narrow to include only hi-flow disgea etc.


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> With my MPS400 it seems like I can't use a custom curve without having USB connected. Is that correct?
> 
> With it set up priority to Aquabus I get a reading under the flow sensors tab, but the choices for curves narrow to include only hi-flow disgea etc.


No, those settings don't do anything when using a flow sensor other than the mechanical 3 pin model.
The settings for the mps flow meters are applied and saved to the unit itself and it just sends a value to the Aquaero.


----------



## InfoSeeker

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> You could take the display off the front of an A6 and use it just like a 5LT and mount it anywhere you can squeeze it in.
> 
> Expensive solution, but an excellent one.
> 
> D.


This.

You don't have one of the 5.25 bay racks available?.

I have an aquaero 6 pro and I NEVER look at the LCD screen, everything is done via aquasuite.


----------



## TDEUS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *InfoSeeker*
> 
> This.
> 
> You don't have one of the 5.25 bay racks available?.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have an aquaero 6 pro and I NEVER look at the LCD screen, everything is done via aquasuite.


Check out my build Log in the signature, I got a big radiator where those cages were supposed to be. Plus the A6 is like more than double the expences.
Could I not just plug my PWM's into the 3 pin Fan Headers?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TDEUS*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> I do not have the space for the A6. Check my build log. I'm in a fractial Node 804 without 5,25" drive bays.
> I want to run the 2 Fan groups separately + Pump. I would't mind putting everything to one groupe if they were all the same Fans and without the pump, but they're not. So I need/want 3 separate channels.
> I could handle that mod, but yea, it doesn't look too easy
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> FYI: At the moment I'm runnning this setup off my CPU PWM header for the pump, and one GPU fan controller PWM/mod for all the four PWM fans (Via 4-way splitter +molex) But I want to be able to control everything at one place. So is there any kind of fan controller that could handle that. Isn't it possible to run the PWM fans off of voltage regulated headers, without the PWM signal?
> 
> 
> 
> EDIT: Just checked with my old Boxed Intel CPU Fan on an old PSU, I can run that one off of 5 volts without having the PWM signal pluged and it works fine, so shouldn't I in theory be able to do the same thing on the A5LT?


It should work, right???


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TDEUS*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *InfoSeeker*
> 
> This.
> 
> You don't have one of the 5.25 bay racks available?.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have an aquaero 6 pro and I NEVER look at the LCD screen, everything is done via aquasuite.
> 
> 
> 
> Check out my build Log in the signature, I got a big radiator where those cages were supposed to be. Plus the A6 is like more than double the expences.
> Could I not just plug my PWM's into the 3 pin Fan Headers?
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *TDEUS*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> I do not have the space for the A6. Check my build log. I'm in a fractial Node 804 without 5,25" drive bays.
> I want to run the 2 Fan groups separately + Pump. I would't mind putting everything to one groupe if they were all the same Fans and without the pump, but they're not. So I need/want 3 separate channels.
> I could handle that mod, but yea, it doesn't look too easy
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> FYI: At the moment I'm runnning this setup off my CPU PWM header for the pump, and one GPU fan controller PWM/mod for all the four PWM fans (Via 4-way splitter +molex) But I want to be able to control everything at one place. So is there any kind of fan controller that could handle that. Isn't it possible to run the PWM fans off of voltage regulated headers, without the PWM signal?
> 
> 
> 
> EDIT: Just checked with my old Boxed Intel CPU Fan on an old PSU, I can run that one off of 5 volts without having the PWM signal pluged and it works fine, so shouldn't I in theory be able to do the same thing on the A5LT?
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> *It should work, right???*
Click to expand...

You've been given a solution that will suit your needs . .

It's really the only solution you have that doesn't go against PWM fan manufacturer's recommendations that you do not use variable voltage to control their speed.

Do what you want, it's your build . . .

Darlene

Food for thought:

If it was really OK, as in works reliably for extended lengths of time, to use variable voltage to control the speed of PWM fans, then why don't the manufacturers put that in their advertising to boost sales of their usually higher end fans . . . .


----------



## dseg

I am wanting to use Corsair PWM fans, I know you can hook up a lot of fans to the Aquaero with PWM.
I know there was an issue with the first release of the Aquaero were there was a problem with the Corsair fans...

Does anyone know how I can get it fixed for my Aquaero (got it when it first came out) and what the actual problem is?

I have the Aquaero 6 XT


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dseg*
> 
> I am wanting to use Corsair PWM fans, I know you can hook up a lot of fans to the Aquaero with PWM.
> I know there was an issue with the first release of the Aquaero were there was a problem with the Corsair fans...
> 
> Does anyone know how I can get it fixed for my Aquaero (got it when it first came out) and what the actual problem is?
> 
> I have the Aquaero 6 XT


You need to look at your A6 pcb, and see if it has the original 100 ohm protective resistors on the PWM inputs, or the newer 47 ohm ones.

These are the new ones and are good for easily 8 of the Corsair fans, and usually 9 or 10 work acceptably.



If the resistors in those locations have 101 on them, then they were amongst the very, very first Aquaeros released and unless you have someone who can change them out, you're out of luck with more than about 4, maybe 5 of the Corsair PWM fans.

You really just have to try it.

Corsair may have changed the value of its internal pullup resistor so that the newer fans work better.

D.


----------



## RpeeKooz

hi guys quick question
im getting a new motherboard(already ordered)
http://www.pccasegear.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=138_1780&products_id=33142
and im using aq6xt and i noticed it uses a usb cable..do i really need the usb plugged in ???this motherboard does not have any usb connection on it.what do i do ??


----------



## electro2u

Yeah i ordered that board too. Glad i noticed no usb 2 headers before i opened box because the retailer is hardcore about opening cpus mobos and gpus. There is a usb 3 header on the board-youll need a usb 2.0 to 3.0 adapter and possibly a usb hub as well depending on if you have additional usb devices as well. I sent mine back.


----------



## TViper04

Links to the 2 items electro2u mentioned.

http://www.performance-pcs.com/ppcs-9-pin-male-usb-2-0-header-to-20-pin-motherboard-female-usb-3-0-cable-10cm.html

http://www.performance-pcs.com/internal-usb-cables/nzxt-iu01-usb-2-0-internal-expansion-module.html


----------



## RpeeKooz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> Yeah i ordered that board too. Glad i noticed no usb 2 headers before i opened box because the retailer is hardcore about opening cpus mobos and gpus. There is a usb 3 header on the board-youll need a usb 2.0 to 3.0 adapter and possibly a usb hub as well depending on if you have additional usb devices as well. I sent mine back.


ok thanks yeh ive got a usb hub.so that means i need the aquaero plugged in all the time ??
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TViper04*
> 
> Links to the 2 items electro2u mentioned.
> 
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/ppcs-9-pin-male-usb-2-0-header-to-20-pin-motherboard-female-usb-3-0-cable-10cm.html
> 
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/internal-usb-cables/nzxt-iu01-usb-2-0-internal-expansion-module.html


whats that 2nd one i cant find that anywhere in australia ???


----------



## TViper04

The second link is a USB 2 expansion module. Do a Google search on "NZXT IU01".


----------



## Mega Man

No you don't. Unless you want to monitor software temps ( any temp you check inside windows/your os )

You do need it to program the aquaero through aquasuite but you can do everything via the screen that you need but it is harder.

I would use a water to air delta and a cable like this
http://www.frontx.com/cpx505p2.gif
If you don't want to always have it plugged in. You can remove the usb after the unit is programed


----------



## TViper04

NZXTIU01.jpg 135k .jpg file


----------



## Anateus

Quick question:
Do I connect Farbwerk and Aquaero 6 via Aquabus high (right side header on AQ6)? Does it matter which header do I use on Farbwerk?


----------



## jaganram

Really having a hard time with 2 of these http://www.performance-pcs.com/modmytoys-4-pin-pwm-low-profile-power-distribution-pcb-8-way-block.html.

Which i been trying to connect around 5 fans per Splitter to my Aquaero 6. Can anyone explain me in detail which tach trace i need to cut. I mean the exact locations on the PCB itself? Tried searching for more info but i cant find it after searching through this thread.

Already connected EK 3.2 pump to one of the fan headers on Aquaero. Struggling to connect around 12-13 fans to control all in 1 place


----------



## InfoSeeker

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jaganram*
> 
> Really having a hard time with 2 of these http://www.performance-pcs.com/modmytoys-4-pin-pwm-low-profile-power-distribution-pcb-8-way-block.html.
> 
> Which i been trying to connect around 5 fans per Splitter to my Aquaero 6. Can anyone explain me in detail which tach trace i need to cut. I mean the exact locations on the PCB itself? Tried searching for more info but i cant find it after searching through this thread.
> 
> Already connected EK 3.2 pump to one of the fan headers on Aquaero. Struggling to connect around 12-13 fans to control all in 1 place


Be sure to wait for the confirmation before you start snipping the splitter block pins, but I believe the pin furthest from the plug guide is the PWM connection. If so, you could leave one connector alone and snip the pins marked on the picture below. Be sure to cut all the way back so there is not a partial connection to the plug.


EDIT: Totally zoned on this - WRONG - FAIL - DO NOT


----------



## jaganram

Really having a hard time with these

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *InfoSeeker*
> 
> Be sure to wait for the confirmation before you start snipping the splitter block pins, but I believe the pin furthest from the plug guide is the PWM connection. If so, you could leave one connector alone and snip the pins marked on the picture below. Be sure to cut all the way back so there is not a partial connection to the plug.


Yes I been waiting for confirmation from users who have already modded one of these. Need to know exactly which things to cut so I won't waste one of the splitters. Only got one try from this


----------



## rmarudas

Hey guys, a quick question if I may.

I'm making a large radiator box and all of my 4 pin PWM fan headers are full, I have 2 EK D5 PWM pumps that need to be hooked up. Any thoughts on where to plug them in? I'm a noob with the aquaero 6, I would scroll through the thread but close to 600 pages.....


----------



## wa3pnt

I do not believe that you want to clip the PWM pins. You need the PWM signal to be delivered to all connected fans.

What you do not want is the RPM signals from all the fans sent back to the AQ, as it will garble the RPM signal when several are mixed.

The pin next to the PWM signal pin is what should only be connected to ONE fan, allowing one fan to deliver the RPM signal to the AQ.

RodeoGeorge


----------



## InfoSeeker

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wa3pnt*
> 
> I do not believe that you want to clip the PWM pins. You need the PWM signal to be delivered to all connected fans.
> 
> What you do not want is the RPM signals from all the fans sent back to the AQ, as it will garble the RPM signal when several are mixed.
> 
> The pin next to the PWM signal pin is what should only be connected to ONE fan, allowing one fan to deliver the RPM signal to the AQ.
> 
> RodeoGeorge


Thank you for that, saved me having to send a replacement splitter.


----------



## Mega Man

Correct the rpm is the 3rd pin.

However you can just cut the pcb. We would need pics of the bottom of the pcb is you want to be shown where to cut.

Otherwise you can cut the pins
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rmarudas*
> 
> Hey guys, a quick question if I may.
> 
> I'm making a large radiator box and all of my 4 pin PWM fan headers are full, I have 2 EK D5 PWM pumps that need to be hooked up. Any thoughts on where to plug them in? I'm a noob with the aquaero 6, I would scroll through the thread but close to 600 pages.....


1 you will need to do a diva mod ( someone please provide a quote I am on mobile

2 you need a pwm splitter


----------



## rmarudas

So diva mod to free up one 4 pin and use that for the two pumps? Just out of curiosity, what are the 2 pwm 2pins for? Also, could I split the high aquabus 4 pin?


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jaganram*
> 
> Really having a hard time with 2 of these http://www.performance-pcs.com/modmytoys-4-pin-pwm-low-profile-power-distribution-pcb-8-way-block.html.
> 
> Which i been trying to connect around 5 fans per Splitter to my Aquaero 6. Can anyone explain me in detail which tach trace i need to cut. I mean the exact locations on the PCB itself? Tried searching for more info but i cant find it after searching through this thread.
> 
> Already connected EK 3.2 pump to one of the fan headers on Aquaero. Struggling to connect around 12-13 fans to control all in 1 place


http://www.overclock.net/t/1474470/ocn-aquaero-owners-club/5430#post_24358133


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rmarudas*
> 
> So diva mod to free up one 4 pin and use that for the two pumps? Just out of curiosity, what are the 2 pwm 2pins for? Also, could I split the high aquabus 4 pin?


2 pin pwm is 12v generally used for leds. But could be anything that can take 12v pwm you can split the aquabus. But that is not to be used as a fan header. It is used for Com with other Aquacomputer stuff

Pwm splitter is to free up a fan header.

Diva mod is for the d5s to respond to pwm


----------



## rmarudas

Thanks for the response Megaman, Im using 38 delta afc-1212d f00 fans so header space is pretty tight. With the current 8 fans per channel, the fans turn on at 72% while actually spinning at around 50% and scales to 100 from there. Im not sure if I can get away with doubling the fans and still getting a strong enough signal. I'll do more testing when I get off if work later today.

Regardless I'll have to diva mod a 4 pin for the d5 correct?


----------



## Shoggy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jvillaveces*
> 
> Upon restarting, the chart would be blank. After a few repetitions, the changes would take hold, but in the meantime Aquasuite would be running, just with a blank chart. This time around, it simply won't run. Fortunately, the Aquaero took the changes before the problem occurred, so my system is functional, but no Aquasuite.
> 
> Any suggestions?


It would be helpful to provide the error logs from the Windows event viewer. There are two entries per crash; a short and a long one. We only need the longer one:

 

In the meantime you can rename the folder C:\ProgramData\aquasuite-data to something else. It contains all config files and is very likely the reason for your problems. By renaming (or deleting) it, the aquasuite will rewrite all settings with their default values.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anateus*
> 
> Quick question:
> Do I connect Farbwerk and Aquaero 6 via Aquabus high (right side header on AQ6)? Does it matter which header do I use on Farbwerk?


Yes, aquabus high at the aquaero side and on the farbwerk it does not matter. Both aquabus ports are equal. It is like an integrated y-adapter.


----------



## Ninhalem

Has the ability to show the CPU core clocks disappeared from the new version of Aquasuite? I haven't been able to find and select the data source from HWiNFO to do this in Aquasuite since the software upgrade.


----------



## Anateus

So, I have EK d5 and five vardars connected to Aquaero 6
Fan channels are
1: Pump
2: 2x Vardar
3: 2x Vardar
4: 1x Vardar

Im having trouble adjusting fan speeds.
First, which profile should I use for them - Power or RPM?
When they are set to POWER, I cannot lower them beyond 50% in Controller section.
When they are set to PWM, I can go lower, to I think 20%.

Should I change anything with minimum power?

Problem is, when I set my fans to PWM and they are working, I can hear loud creaking/coil whine coming from them







It gets louder with more RPM. Can it be caused by Aquaero 6? I will later do more troubleshooting and will connect them to motherboard headers.


----------



## Shoggy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ninhalem*
> 
> Has the ability to show the CPU core clocks disappeared from the new version of Aquasuite? I haven't been able to find and select the data source from HWiNFO to do this in Aquasuite since the software upgrade.


No problem here. Works fine and we also have not changed this function.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anateus*
> 
> Im having trouble adjusting fan speeds.


Maybe you should provide screenshots of your settings in the fan and controller tab to get an idea what you are currently doing. It is very unlikely that the aquaero causes the fans to be noisy because in PWM mode the supply voltage is 12V while the aquaero only provides a PWM signal that tells the fan how fast it should spin. This adjustment is done by the fan itself.


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anateus*
> 
> So, I have EK d5 and five vardars connected to Aquaero 6
> Fan channels are
> 1: Pump
> 2: 2x Vardar
> 3: 2x Vardar
> 4: 1x Vardar
> 
> Im having trouble adjusting fan speeds.
> First, which profile should I use for them - Power or RPM?
> When they are set to POWER, I cannot lower them beyond 50% in Controller section.
> When they are set to PWM, I can go lower, to I think 20%.
> 
> Should I change anything with minimum power?
> 
> Problem is, when I set my fans to PWM and they are working, I can hear loud creaking/coil whine coming from them
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It gets louder with more RPM. Can it be caused by Aquaero 6? I will later do more troubleshooting and will connect them to motherboard headers.


Some of that behaviour is normal. PWM fans always have a higher start/minimum voltage than voltage control fans. The Vardars should be used with PWM control and any excess noise is not normal.
Changing the minimums in the fan section does not affect anything other than how much range of PWM signal or power is available to the controllers section.


----------



## timepart

Sorry, but a quick question on my rig setup. I want to run 2 flow meters (the 3 pin only ones). I also have 5 power adjusts, and an aquaero 5. How can I connect multiple flow channels for this setup.

Thanks!


----------



## Anateus

How do I control my RGB LED strips using farbwerk? I have them connected to top two connectors in farbwerk, which is connected to Aquaero 6.
No matter what I do in Controllers tab, my LEDs just keep changing colours. There is something for Farbwerk in Outputs tab, but there are no colour options.


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *timepart*
> 
> Sorry, but a quick question on my rig setup. I want to run 2 flow meters (the 3 pin only ones). I also have 5 power adjusts, and an aquaero 5. How can I connect multiple flow channels for this setup.
> 
> Thanks!


Each poweradjust has a flow header so you have 5 extra flow ports. You could use the flow port on the Aquaero and one on a poweradjust or both on poweradjusts


----------



## jaganram

Thanks for all the info on about those 8 way splitter i got. I will try to mod it and see if it works fine.

Another thing i want to ask is about cables. No way i can make all the cables connect to the Aquaero with my SMA8 as its very short looks like i need to buy extension cables. So what cable exactly i need to buy ? Connecting all my Ek Vardars to Modmy 8 splitters all are 4 pins


----------



## Mega Man

Only you can answer your question. If it were me I would mount my splitters as close to the fans they are servicing and run 1 cable to the splitter
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rmarudas*
> 
> Thanks for the response Megaman, Im using 38 delta afc-1212d f00 fans so header space is pretty tight. With the current 8 fans per channel, the fans turn on at 72% while actually spinning at around 50% and scales to 100 from there. Im not sure if I can get away with doubling the fans and still getting a strong enough signal. I'll do more testing when I get off if work later today.
> 
> Regardless I'll have to diva mod a 4 pin for the d5 correct?


most motherboard ( from what I understand ) can control the d5s. But I could be wrong.

As to your current situation. You have some choices to make.

1 get Aquacomputer pumps with aquabus.

2 control the pumps you have with something else ( ie your motherboard )

3 buy another aquaero

4 w.e. I am missing


----------



## iBruce

Hey Shoggy,

Which end plugs or cables do I need to use one of these 12v outputs to power a 15 diode white only single color LED strip?

Thank you

http://s296.photobucket.com/user/iBruceEVGA/media/aquaero 6_zps29zjr91u.png.html


----------



## rmarudas

Yeah that's what I fear. Am I the only one who deeply regrets taking the PWM road?

Thanks you very much for all the info so far.

Im thinking of using a 5 channel 60w 3 pin voltage controller I have for the fans and putting the pumps, flow meter, and temps on the AQ6.

How bad is it to run PWM fans via voltage reg? I've read a good bit on the subject but didnt really come to a conclusion. I bought my fans in bulk so I have plenty extra if need be.


----------



## rmarudas

Also forgot to mention that this is all being put in a stand-alone radiator box. Im reeealy trying to avoid hooking up anything to the mobo despite there being 5 pwm headers...


----------



## Archea47

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rmarudas*
> 
> Yeah that's what I fear. Am I the only one who deeply regrets taking the PWM road?


Not at all. I have 21 PWM devices (19 fans, 2 pumps) hanging off my AQ6 in PWM mode and am very satisfied. The PWM->RPM scaling just takes a little experimentation to document/understand but all in all I found it a shallow learning curve


----------



## iBruce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Archea47*
> 
> Not at all. I have 21 PWM devices (19 fans, 2 pumps) hanging off my AQ6 in PWM mode and am very satisfied. The PWM->RPM scaling just takes a little experimentation to document/understand but all in all I found it a shallow learning curve


Wow I'm only using 10 fans and one pump.

Anyone know the out of the box default %PWR for the AquaComputer D5 PWM pump?

is it high enough to bleed a loop without installing mobo memory CPU etc for software control?

edit:

This might be a strange question, but could I plug in the AC D5 PWM into another working rig's Aquaero 6 XT submerge the pump in a water bath and set the desired %PWR using one of the A6s PWM channels?

Will the new power setting hold in the pump's memory when unplugged and transferred to the new build?

Does the AquaComputer PWM D5 HAVE internal memory like the AquaComputer USB D5?

thank you


----------



## Archea47

Hey iBruce,

You can preprovision the Aquaero through the front panel before you power the pump. That's what I did!


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Archea47*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *rmarudas*
> 
> Yeah that's what I fear. Am I the only one who deeply regrets taking the PWM road?
> 
> 
> 
> Not at all. I have 21 PWM devices (19 fans, 2 pumps) hanging off my AQ6 in PWM mode and am very satisfied. The PWM->RPM scaling just takes a little experimentation to document/understand but all in all I found it a shallow learning curve
Click to expand...

heh my Th10 is pushing near 40 fans ( does not include the 4 pumps ) i love pwm
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Archea47*
> 
> Hey iBruce,
> 
> You can preprovision the Aquaero through the front panel before you power the pump. That's what I did!


this wont help him long term though he needs a long term solution.

one solution that would work is to run the pumps at 100% you would just need to take 5v from the molex and jump it to the 4th pin ( pwm pin ) with that many fans the noise shouldnt be noticeable


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iBruce*
> 
> Hey Shoggy,
> 
> Which end plugs or cables do I need to use one of these 12v outputs to power a 15 diode white only single color LED strip?
> 
> Thank you
> 
> http://s296.photobucket.com/user/iBruceEVGA/media/aquaero 6_zps29zjr91u.png.html


These ones
http://shop.aquacomputer.de/product_info.php?products_id=1629


----------



## Mega Man

tyvm i knew i forgot to answer something, sorry i forgot to answer it :/


----------



## jvillaveces

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> It would be helpful to provide the error logs from the Windows event viewer. There are two entries per crash; a short and a long one. We only need the longer one:
> 
> 
> 
> In the meantime you can rename the folder C:\ProgramData\aquasuite-data to something else. It contains all config files and is very likely the reason for your problems. By renaming (or deleting) it, the aquasuite will rewrite all settings with their default values.


Thanks Shoggy. I just unisnstalled Aquasuite completely, erased all the files, and started over. I had to redo everything, but it went well, and now everything is working as it should. I do wish I knew what the problem was, but I'm happy it's fixed. Following are screenshots of the last two crashes, I hope they are useful. If you want more information, I can post or pm a log of the crashes for a couple of weeks.


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## Archea47

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> this wont help him long term though he needs a long term solution.
> 
> one solution that would work is to run the pumps at 100% you would just need to take 5v from the molex and jump it to the 4th pin ( pwm pin ) with that many fans the noise shouldnt be noticeable


Cool idea, but I'm pretty sure he meant short term









The process would be to use the front buttons to ...
Select a set point controller, put it however fast roughly you want the pump to run (1-100%)
Go to Outputs and select Fan 1. Set it to PWM mode and personally I set the max RPM since it changes some of the default graphs. Then for its controller chose the preset value you earlier configured


----------



## Mega Man

ah. I was thinking that was the guy with all fan ports used on aq. Sorry


----------



## Shoggy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anateus*
> 
> How do I control my RGB LED strips using farbwerk? I have them connected to top two connectors in farbwerk, which is connected to Aquaero 6.
> No matter what I do in Controllers tab, my LEDs just keep changing colours. There is something for Farbwerk in Outputs tab, but there are no colour options.


Connect the farbwerk via USB and switch the mode for the channels so they can be controlled from an external source:



In the outputs tab of the aquaero you have to make sure that the farbwerk channel is enabled:



In the controller tab you can add a RGB LED controller for example and assign the farbwerk channels as outputs:



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iBruce*
> 
> Anyone know the out of the box default %PWR for the AquaComputer D5 PWM pump?
> 
> is it high enough to bleed a loop without installing mobo memory CPU etc for software control?
> 
> edit:
> 
> This might be a strange question, but could I plug in the AC D5 PWM into another working rig's Aquaero 6 XT submerge the pump in a water bath and set the desired %PWR using one of the A6s PWM channels?
> 
> Will the new power setting hold in the pump's memory when unplugged and transferred to the new build?
> 
> Does the AquaComputer PWM D5 HAVE internal memory like the AquaComputer USB D5?
> 
> thank you


If now PWM signal is connected our pump runs with 100% speed. There is no need to connect it to the PC or a fan controller for the initial setup of your loop.

This pump can not be submerged! This pump also has no memory. It requires a constant PWM signal if you want to adjust its speed.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jvillaveces*
> 
> Following are screenshots of the last two crashes, I hope they are useful.


These are only the short summaries. Unfortunately they do not contain any helpful information.


----------



## Ninhalem

So when I ran Aquasuite as administrator this morning, the program immediately ate up 95% of my RAM (see screenshot). Any ideas on why it would do this? I am running Windows 10 Pro 64 bit with 16 GB of memory on a Core i5-3570K.


----------



## NE0XY

I have a question regarding the flow sensor in the aquasuite/aquaero.
I have connected a Bitspower Flow Sensor (http://www.performance-pcs.com/bitspower-flow-sensor-bp-fs-clbksl-clear-black-silver-shining.html) and I wonder if the readings are accurate? Coz I figure that the flow sensor thingy would be "made" for the Aquacomputer flow meter. I'm currently running two D5s at aprox 2000rpm and Aquasuite says that I get a flow of around 43 liters per hour.

Also, I see around 1 degree celsius of difference in temperature between two different parts of the loop, and the coolant temperature seems to increase when I increase the pump speed. Is this normal? =P

Thank you


----------



## Jakusonfire

The Bitspower flew sensor needs a calibration number that is lower than the Aquaero can go to be accurate


----------



## Jflisk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NE0XY*
> 
> I have a question regarding the flow sensor in the aquasuite/aquaero.
> I have connected a Bitspower Flow Sensor (http://www.performance-pcs.com/bitspower-flow-sensor-bp-fs-clbksl-clear-black-silver-shining.html) and I wonder if the readings are accurate? Coz I figure that the flow sensor thingy would be "made" for the Aquacomputer flow meter. I'm currently running two D5s at aprox 2000rpm and Aquasuite says that I get a flow of around 43 liters per hour.
> 
> Also, I see around 1 degree celsius of difference in temperature between two different parts of the loop, and the coolant temperature seems to increase when I increase the pump speed. Is this normal? =P
> 
> Thank you


The temperature increase is normal as the more you turn up the pumps the more heat you put into the loop.The D5s are cooled by the water running in them. I had 2 connected to a cpu block and just a res. The CPU block got extremely warm. My 2 D5 run about 320 lph. I have a Koolance Flow meter and I have to do a conversion from 3200 rpm to LPH =320 . I believe you would have to do the same and someone can correct me on this one. But I believe the bitpower needs to be connected to a fan header to get a good reading then converted to LPH or GPH

Here give this video a watch.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=j5ioikrQCFM


----------



## rmarudas

What do you use to control your pumps Megaman? And what loop are you driving with 4 pumps???

The first bad note in PWM was re-wiring 52 fans......none of the wires were in a logical order. Positive-tachometer-ground-PWM. Who does that!!


----------



## NE0XY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> The Bitspower flew sensor needs a calibration number that is lower than the Aquaero can go to be accurate


Not quite sure what you meant with the calibration thingy but thanks =)

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jflisk*
> 
> The temperature increase is normal as the more you turn up the pumps the more heat you put into the loop.The D5s are cooled by the water running in them. I had 2 connected to a cpu block and just a res. The CPU block got extremely warm. My 2 D5 run about 320 lph. I have a Koolance Flow meter and I have to do a conversion from 3200 rpm to LPH =320 . I believe you would have to do the same and someone can correct me on this one. But I believe the bitpower needs to be connected to a fan header to get a good reading then converted to LPH or GPH
> 
> Here give this video a watch.
> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=j5ioikrQCFM


Would be interesting to see my actual flow but that won't be possible?
I have 5 rads and 5 blocks so would be interesting to see my acutal flow rate.
And also I know this is a hard question but what would an optimal flow rate be?


----------



## Mega Man

I use aquaero. The rest are powered from my psu and controlled via pwm.

As to blocks cpu to 2x295x2 blocks to 5x480 rads.

My system has way to much pump I know that. I like that.

The other system does 5x360s and 4x7970.

Anther system has 4x290xs


----------



## Jflisk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NE0XY*
> 
> Not quite sure what you meant with the calibration thingy but thanks =)
> Would be interesting to see my actual flow but that won't be possible?
> I have 5 rads and 5 blocks so would be interesting to see my acutal flow rate.
> And also I know this is a hard question but what would an optimal flow rate be?


You can see the flow rate just need to convert the rpm to LPH and the optimal flow rate is anywhere from 1 to 1.5 GPM after conversion or if you are happy with the temps then its good. < Loaded question

I would do a google for your flow sensor and see how others have done the conversion. I believe its RPM to LPH then convert to GPH divided by 60 to give GPM.

You might want to ask in this part of the forum. There a lot of experienced water coolers that may have the answer off the top of there heads.
http://www.overclock.net/t/584302/ocn-water-cooling-club-and-picture-gallery/92080


----------



## jaganram

Sorry for this dumb question how do i connect Aquaero 6 to my board ? Yes i found the 5 pin USB cable which i got with my Aquaero. I need to connect it directly to a USB2.0 header in my R5E.

Seen the USB header on the board has completely different pin arrangement. So how do i connect this ?


----------



## NE0XY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jflisk*
> 
> You can see the flow rate just need to convert the rpm to LPH and the optimal flow rate is anywhere from 1 to 1.5 GPM after conversion or if you are happy with the temps then its good. < Loaded question
> 
> I would do a google for your flow sensor and see how others have done the conversion. I believe its RPM to LPH then convert to GPH divided by 60 to give GPM.
> 
> You might want to ask in this part of the forum. There a lot of experienced water coolers that may have the answer off the top of there heads.
> http://www.overclock.net/t/584302/ocn-water-cooling-club-and-picture-gallery/92080


It's already showing liter/h but not just accurate I imagine.

Thank you, I'll look into it =) Just wanted to check if there was a simple solution =)


----------



## Jflisk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NE0XY*
> 
> It's already showing liter/h but not just accurate I imagine.
> 
> Thank you, I'll look into it =) Just wanted to check if there was a simple solution =)


is it showing like 3200.00 or xxxx.xx or whats the full digits it showing.

Read here may need the koolance adapter to read the true rpm. I have all koolance connected to the aquacomputer.

http://www.overclock.net/t/1406385/bitspower-flow-sensor-help


----------



## jvillaveces

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> These are only the short summaries. Unfortunately they do not contain any helpful information.


Where in Windows 10 event log should I get the error reports that you would find useful?


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jaganram*
> 
> Sorry for this dumb question how do i connect Aquaero 6 to my board ? Yes i found the 5 pin USB cable which i got with my Aquaero. I need to connect it directly to a USB2.0 header in my R5E.
> 
> Seen the USB header on the board has completely different pin arrangement. So how do i connect this ?


If you mean a USB 2.0 port it has exactly the same pinout. If you mean usb3.0 I think you would be better spent buying a usb3.0 header to usb2.0 adapter As you are asking and not making your own.

USB 2.0 headers are a standard that is followed. Esp by asus


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NE0XY*
> 
> Not quite sure what you meant with the calibration thingy but thanks =)
> Would be interesting to see my actual flow but that won't be possible?


If you look at the flow meter settings there is a place where you can adjust the number of rotations (pulses actually) per Litre. The standard 3 pin Aquacomp model is around 169 but the Bitspower model is under 100. The Aquaero settings can't be set to under 100 though. So you can't get really accurate but setting it to 100 would be closer than it must be now.
I assume the very large difference in the config numbers is due to the fact that the Aquacomp model produces two pulses per full rotation of its paddle whereas the BP sensor is just reporting RPM so is likely a single pulse per rotation

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jaganram*
> 
> Sorry for this dumb question how do i connect Aquaero 6 to my board ? Yes i found the 5 pin USB cable which i got with my Aquaero. I need to connect it directly to a USB2.0 header in my R5E.
> 
> Seen the USB header on the board has completely different pin arrangement. So how do i connect this ?


The USB 2.0 headers are dual ports, so you can connect two of the 5 pin cables that come with the Aquaero to each usb header.


----------



## NE0XY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jflisk*
> 
> is it showing like 3200.00 or xxxx.xx or whats the full digits it showing.
> 
> Read here may need the koolance adapter to read the true rpm. I have all koolance connected to the aquacomputer.
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1406385/bitspower-flow-sensor-help


The exact number atm is 42,6 L/h.
Thank you.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> If you look at the flow meter settings there is a place where you can adjust the number of rotations (pulses actually) per Litre. The standard 3 pin Aquacomp model is around 169 but the Bitspower model is under 100. The Aquaero settings can't be set to under 100 though. So you can't get really accurate but setting it to 100 would be closer than it must be now.
> I assume the very large difference in the config numbers is due to the fact that the Aquacomp model produces two pulses per full rotation of its paddle whereas the BP sensor is just reporting RPM so is likely a single pulse per rotation


Hmm okay.
I'll just keep it like it is then. I might invest in a "real" aquacomputer one in the future. but this one looks really nice imo =)
Thank you all for you help


----------



## Shoggy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ninhalem*
> 
> So when I ran Aquasuite as administrator this morning, the program immediately ate up 95% of my RAM (see screenshot). Any ideas on why it would do this? I am running Windows 10 Pro 64 bit with 16 GB of memory on a Core i5-3570K.


Does it happen directly after you start the aquasuite or have you done something specific? If you have set the aquasuit to start with an overview page or on the desktop you should disable that. If the RAM looks OK afterwards it is very likely that an element on the overview page is causing the problem. If you have several overview pages you could go one by one through them and always checking when the RAM goes up. When you have identified the page I recommend to export it to a file. Start removing the elements from the page one by one until the RAM consumption stays normal. This way you can identify the element which acts weird. It is likely that it will be a chart because they require a lot of database operations in the background. If there is something messed up it might lead to a loop that quickly eats up all memory.

Sending us the files from C:\ProgramData\aquasuite-data, the exported overview page and mentioning the problematic element might help to trace down the problem.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jaganram*
> 
> Sorry for this dumb question how do i connect Aquaero 6 to my board ? Yes i found the 5 pin USB cable which i got with my Aquaero. I need to connect it directly to a USB2.0 header in my R5E.
> 
> Seen the USB header on the board has completely different pin arrangement. So how do i connect this ?


Pretty much every mainboard uses a two-row USB header. It does not matter if you use the first or second row. The important thing is that the side with the missing pin is the ground (black wire):


----------



## jaganram

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> Does it happen directly after you start the aquasuite or have you done something specific? If you have set the aquasuit to start with an overview page or on the desktop you should disable that. If the RAM looks OK afterwards it is very likely that an element on the overview page is causing the problem. If you have several overview pages you could go one by one through them and always checking when the RAM goes up. When you have identified the page I recommend to export it to a file. Start removing the elements from the page one by one until the RAM consumption stays normal. This way you can identify the element which acts weird. It is likely that it will be a chart because they require a lot of database operations in the background. If there is something messed up it might lead to a loop that quickly eats up all memory.
> 
> Sending us the files from C:\ProgramData\aquasuite-data, the exported overview page and mentioning the problematic element might help to trace down the problem.
> Pretty much every mainboard uses a two-row USB header. It does not matter if you use the first or second row. The important thing is that the side with the missing pin is the ground (black wire):


Thanks for the explanation i understood now


----------



## jaganram

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> If you look at the flow meter settings there is a place where you can adjust the number of rotations (pulses actually) per Litre. The standard 3 pin Aquacomp model is around 169 but the Bitspower model is under 100. The Aquaero settings can't be set to under 100 though. So you can't get really accurate but setting it to 100 would be closer than it must be now.
> I assume the very large difference in the config numbers is due to the fact that the Aquacomp model produces two pulses per full rotation of its paddle whereas the BP sensor is just reporting RPM so is likely a single pulse per rotation
> The USB 2.0 headers are dual ports, so you can connect two of the 5 pin cables that come with the Aquaero to each usb header.


Ok i will try to connect it to the USB2 pin headers


----------



## jaganram

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> If you mean a USB 2.0 port it has exactly the same pinout. If you mean usb3.0 I think you would be better spent buying a usb3.0 header to usb2.0 adapter As you are asking and not making your own.
> 
> USB 2.0 headers are a standard that is followed. Esp by asus


Ok i will use the USB2.0 to connect the Aquaero ty


----------



## Mega Man

Sorry I forgot to mention about the 9 pin being 2 separate headers I was stressed yesterday


----------



## ratzofftoya

I'm going to be installing some Aquacomputer parts for the first time this weekend as I fill up my loop. Aquaero 6 XT, two aquacomputer pumps (USB/Aquabus), a couple filters, some temp sensors (monsoon and aquacomputer), and two of the Hi-Flow meters. And 16 fans running off of two Swiftech PWM splitters.

Anything I should know for first boot? The pumps and flow meters need to go on internal USB first, right? Same with the Aquaero?


----------



## Mega Man

First you need USB I would recommend connecting aqua bus as well


----------



## WiLd FyeR

Using OHM as a software sensor and has worked until today. I get a message that says "No External data sources available".


----------



## ratzofftoya

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> First you need USB I would recommend connecting aqua bus as well


At the same time?


----------



## WiLd FyeR

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiLd FyeR*
> 
> Using OHM as a software sensor and has worked until today. I get a message that says "No External data sources available".


Nevermind, I just had to update OHM.


----------



## JasonMorris

Yes. You can remove the USB connection once you have set it all up. Some people, myself included, leave the USB connected as I can't help tinkering with the settings all of the time.
Go slow and enjoy your new wonder.


----------



## ratzofftoya

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JasonMorris*
> 
> Yes. You can remove the USB connection once you have set it all up. Some people, myself included, leave the USB connected as I can't help tinkering with the settings all of the time.
> Go slow and enjoy your new wonder.


So plug everything (pumps, hi-flow, farbwerk) in both USB and Aquabus on first boot, then remove USB if desired? Assuming i also plug in the power connections, right?


----------



## Shoggy

Everything that has a 4-pin molex plug must be also connected to the PSU. There is no way to power these devices via aquabus. If you have several devices of the same type you have to assign different aquabus ID numbers first. This can be only done via USB in the system tab of each device. Some devices like the fill level sensor for example require an initial setup which is also only possible via USB.

- - - - - - - -

*Me:* Taa taa!










*You:* What the...?!









This will solve the problem with the display glass covers that pop out from time to time. The reason for that behavior was and still is a higher temperature. The effect can be easily reproduced by pointing a hair blower towards the front. The type of plastic that the covers uses will start to expand and since there is not enough space available to the sides it will pop out. With higher temperatures the currently used glue also looses some of its stickiness so there comes one thing to the other...

As of now all touch controller boards will get this precisely cut 3M glue pads that have a much better adhesive. It can not prevent that the glass will start to expand with high temperatures but will keep it in its place. We have done several test here and it is quite unrealistic to get so hot temperatures that it would still pop out. The application is also much easier compared to the current production process. It can be also exchanged which is the reason why all black aquaero 5/6 XT face plates will include such a sticker now so you can easily apply the new cover without fearing that the previously applied glue might not work correctly anymore.


----------



## jaganram

Ok connected the Aquaero 6 using the USB cable to Asus RVE board.

When i boot in to Windows i see a message saying USB Unknown Device

Ok Fixed this connected it to ROG connector on the board instead of USB


----------



## ratzofftoya

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> Everything that has a 4-pin molex plug must be also connected to the PSU. There is no way to power these devices via aquabus. If you have several devices of the same type you have to assign different aquabus ID numbers first. This can be only done via USB in the system tab of each device. Some devices like the fill level sensor for example require an initial setup which is also only possible via USB.


Got it--I'll start by connecting Aquabus and USB for every device, then remove the USB after setup.

Question: I don't think it'll be at all feasible for the Aquabus cables I got to reach all the way from my pumps up to the Aquaero. It needs to be at least three times as long. Can I just make my own cable? Seems pretty simple, and that way I could sleeve it. As an alternative, do you make longer ones? How do people normally deal with this issue?


----------



## Mystriss

How did I not join this club!?

I have a 5LT water blocked right now, and I plan to get one of the new 6 XT's with blue LED's to control my (eventual) 3 pumps on two separate cooling loops (getting 2 Aqua Computer pumps to plug into it.) I've also got flow meters and the RGB controller (very noice.) The AQ software's tied into AIDA64 so I have an onscreen sensor panel and everything runs beautifully


----------



## JLMS2010

Question for all you experts.







I have a 6XT, but decided not to use it and want to only run the Poweradjust 3 Ultra. From my understanding this basically works the same way as the aquaero with aquasuite. I need 2 channels for 2 sets of fans and will need to control some lights. My questions is how many PA 3 will I need and is my understanding of how this PA 3 works correct? Thank you.


----------



## jsutter71

What are the pins on the front of the 5LT used for? As much as I can appreciate the engineering and quality workmanship on Aquaero's products, I find some of the manuals to be either in German or vague. I don't speak German and the downloadable instructions which are in German are in Acrobat format so I can't translate like MS Word can. Example is the Fabwerk. I can't seem to find English instructions for that module. Also, for the 5LT, I purchased drive bay mounts which say that you can use your existing front plate however that doesn't seep possible with any of the ones I have seen which are Silverstone, Lian LI, Corsair, and Coolermaster. And lastly, I would love to see pics on how the people on this forum are mounting their hardware. I have a 6XT, 5LT, and one fabwerk module.


----------



## Mega Man

the pins on the front of the 5lt is for the display, the 5 lt board is the same as the 5 pro/xt just without a displaythe lt mount kit just mounts in a 5.25 bay nothing special [email protected]

manual aquaero
http://aquacomputer.de/tl_files/aquacomputer/downloads/manuals/aquaero_5_6_en_2014_04_14.pdf
farbwerk
http://aquacomputer.de/handbuecher.html?file=tl_files/aquacomputer/downloads/manuals/farbwerk_english_20150107.pdf

JLMS2010 the PAs will work fine for you, they are 1 channel ( VOLTAGE CONTROL ONLY ) each so you would want 2

@ratzofftoya you can make your own cables !~


----------



## ratzofftoya

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> @ratzofftoya you can make your own cables !~


Ooh, sweet! How do I do that? Just four 24-gauge wires?


----------



## jsutter71

I haven't mounted my 6XT yet but noticed something of concern. I made sure not to over tighten any screws but theirs a noticeable bowing on the PCB. I've had this sitting in a box for about a month now face down. It wasn't bowing when I first added the heat sink so I think it has to do with the added weight. Is this something I should be concerned about? Opinions?


----------



## Mega Man

you might of used the wrong size thermal pads iirc there are 2 sizes


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ratzofftoya*
> 
> Got it--I'll start by connecting Aquabus and USB for every device, then remove the USB after setup.
> 
> Question: I don't think it'll be at all feasible for the Aquabus cables I got to reach all the way from my pumps up to the Aquaero. It needs to be at least three times as long. Can I just make my own cable? Seems pretty simple, and that way I could sleeve it. As an alternative, do you make longer ones? How do people normally deal with this issue?


Aquabus uses ordinary 4 pin fan cables. You could use pwm fan extensions, or you can get longer female to female cables from perf PCs etc.


----------



## Mega Man

i want to interject, they are not " ordinary "

PWM splitters may only pass the pwm channel, or the pwm, 12v, ground, but most wont pass the rpm,

the connectors are fan connectors but the wires are far from ordinary


----------



## ratzofftoya

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> i want to interject, they are not " ordinary "
> 
> PWM splitters may only pass the pwm channel, or the pwm, 12v, ground, but most wont pass the rpm,
> 
> the connectors are fan connectors but the wires are far from ordinary


Thanks....so I can't use a pwm extension? so how do I make my own?


----------



## Archea47

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ratzofftoya*
> 
> Thanks....so I can't use a pwm extension? so how do I make my own?


You can absolutely use a PWM extension (assuming it has all 4 wires and pins on each side)

The issue is with PWM splitters because most will only include the 3rd wire for one of the connected 'fans'


----------



## Daggi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Archea47*
> 
> You can absolutely use a PWM extension (assuming it has all 4 wires and pins on each side)
> 
> The issue is with PWM splitters because most will only include the 3rd wire for one of the connected 'fans'


Mod My Toys 4 pin splitters are fully connected on the PCB, those he can use


----------



## jsutter71

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> you might of used the wrong size thermal pads iirc there are 2 sizes


Ok wasn't the thermal pads but same principle. The screws that I used to attach the water block were domed as apposed to flat on the ends. The domed screws were forcing the PCB to bow so after I found and replaced them with flat ones the bowing went away.


----------



## Mega Man

glad you figured it out


----------



## Mads1

With the aquaero 6 xt if i connect darkside led strips to the 12v next to the fan plugs can i control the voltage to allow them to dim independently via the software, ie: i have two strips of light i want one at all times 50% and the other one at 80% ,,,, im i able to do this. Also i notice the fan headers are 3 pin and there is a pwn connector next to them, does that mean only one channel gets the pwm signal, so no matter how many fans i connect they all run the same speed as the ones connected to the pwm header, im new to the aquaero so forgive the nooby questions.


----------



## Mega Man

are you sure you have a 6 and not a 5

6 has 4 4 pin fan headers

5 has 1 4 pin and 3 3pin


----------



## Mads1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> are you sure you have a 6 and not a 5
> 
> 6 has 4 4 pin fan headers
> 
> 5 has 1 4 pin and 3 3pin


No ive not got one yet, i must of been looking at a 5 one then, but yes i want the 6, if its 4 pin thats ok no problem i got confussed for abit. Any idea on the 12v LED strip control via the software.


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ratzofftoya*
> 
> Thanks....so I can't use a pwm extension? so how do I make my own?


Yes you can, as before they are ordinary 4 pin fan cables. Splitters are another matter but that wasn't the question, and there are plenty of splitter cables that will work with aquabus anyway.

Any 4 pin extension will work or these are replacements
http://www.performance-pcs.com/modmytoys-4-pin-pwm-female-to-4-pin-female-extension-cable-black-24-sleeved.html
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mads1*
> 
> No ive not got one yet, i must of been looking at a 5 one then, but yes i want the 6, if its 4 pin thats ok no problem i got confussed for abit. Any idea on the 12v LED strip control via the software.


Yes, each of the 12v pwm outputs, is an individual channel and can be set to whatever you like in a controller, just like the fan headers. You could have a separate controller setting for each single output on the Aquaero if you need to.

The darkside dimmable strips work really well on them with a good range of brightness.


----------



## Mads1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> The darkside dimmable strips work really well on them with a good range of brightness.


Thanks for that yes will be using darkside strips.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mads1*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> are you sure you have a 6 and not a 5
> 
> 6 has 4 4 pin fan headers
> 
> 5 has 1 4 pin and 3 3pin
> 
> 
> 
> No ive not got one yet, i must of been looking at a 5 one then, but yes i want the 6, if its 4 pin thats ok no problem i got confussed for abit. Any idea on the 12v LED strip control via the software.
Click to expand...

i assume you mean using the PWM ? just et up a controller


----------



## Mads1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> i assume you mean using the PWM ? just et up a controller


Yes the 2 pin headers. earlier i was told its ok to control from them so thats all ok thats been answered thanks.


----------



## Mystriss

Soooo... Since I saw the replacement blue led faceplate for the new 6XT I've had the idea absolutely stuck in my head that I can mount just that faceplate in my top case and mount the actual unit else where in my case. Thoughts on this idea as I don't have a 6XT in hand yet?

Long story short, this is the front of my top case; I have no drive bays space as I'm going to have water loop tubes in the front area behind and under that res holder/cover panel.
 

However, I was planning to cut the long tails off the drive bay cover panels and reinstall them, like so:
 

I think there's enough room to install the AQ6 faceplate, but not enough for the AQ w/water block and tubes...


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mystriss*
> 
> Soooo... Since I saw the replacement blue led faceplate for the new 6XT I've had the idea absolutely stuck in my head that I can mount just that faceplate in my top case and mount the actual unit else where in my case. Thoughts on this idea as I don't have a 6XT in hand yet?
> 
> Long story short, this is the front of my top case; I have no drive bays space as I'm going to have water loop tubes in the front area behind and under that res holder/cover panel.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> However, I was planning to cut the long tails off the drive bay cover panels and reinstall them, like so:
> 
> 
> 
> I think there's enough room to install the AQ6 faceplate, but not enough for the AQ w/water block and tubes...


Some time back, there were a couple guys who tried to remote mount the display and connect it via a ribbon cable . . .

As I recall, no one met with success and Shoggy said it couldn't work.

D.


----------



## Mystriss

I wonder if he meant it wasn't possible the way they tried to do it or just as a whole... I don't think it'd be possible with a typical ribbon cable/KK row connector either - I was eyeballing the header on my AQ5LT and pictures of the back of the replacement AQ5/6 XT faceplate, and it looks like they've got 3 or 4 pins that make a "sideways" connection between the first and second row of pins, however I was thinking with individual kk pins and/or a bit of soldering I could replicate that connection exactly.


----------



## Mega Man

He said There is too much interference

Maybe we can hope for a remote screen in aq7.


----------



## JLMS2010

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> the pins on the front of the 5lt is for the display, the 5 lt board is the same as the 5 pro/xt just without a displaythe lt mount kit just mounts in a 5.25 bay nothing special [email protected]
> 
> manual aquaero
> http://aquacomputer.de/tl_files/aquacomputer/downloads/manuals/aquaero_5_6_en_2014_04_14.pdf
> farbwerk
> http://aquacomputer.de/handbuecher.html?file=tl_files/aquacomputer/downloads/manuals/farbwerk_english_20150107.pdf
> 
> JLMS2010 the PAs will work fine for you, they are 1 channel ( VOLTAGE CONTROL ONLY ) each so you would want 2
> 
> @ratzofftoya you can make your own cables !~


Thank you!


----------



## iBruce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Archea47*
> 
> Hey iBruce,
> 
> You can preprovision the Aquaero through the front panel before you power the pump. That's what I did!


That's a very good idea, I can preprovision the A6 LT on a separate rig channel 4 PWM for the AC pump, the setting will hold in memory, thanks, that's GENIUS.









+rep


----------



## Mystriss

More questions heh Would this http://www.performance-pcs.com/koolance-liquid-dual-level-sensor-100mm.html (sends a 3.5-10.5v output if the sensor tip isn't submerged,) work with the Aquaero?


----------



## hk47

I'm now a proud owner of the Aquaero 6 -- haven't connected everything to a computer yet, but been playing with the Aquaero by itself. Quite amazed at its capabilities!

I had a question for Aquaero users -- I know that the Aquaero 6 can handle 2.5A (30W), but can it actually handle more than that for a very short startup period? The reason I ask is I have some 140mm Yate Loons that supposedly draw 0.7A (according to spec sheet). However, from what I can see on the Aquaero, 3 of them are drawing 0.8-0.9A combined -- much less than the 2.1A I would expect. So I'm wondering whether the 0.7A per fan is for startup only (or the specs could just be plain wrong, too). If the Aquaero can handle more than 2.5A on a short burst, I would put 6 of them on 1 channel (for push/pull). Before I tried this though, I wanted to hear what the experienced users of Aquaero think. Thanks!


----------



## Mega Man

I think you will have to wait for shoggy but I am site they can
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mystriss*
> 
> More questions heh Would this http://www.performance-pcs.com/koolance-liquid-dual-level-sensor-100mm.html (sends a 3.5-10.5v output if the sensor tip isn't submerged,) work with the Aquaero?


No it can't no outputs that I know of can read voltage like that


----------



## Mystriss

hmmm so the AQ's can't use standard float meters either then? Alright, so what level sensor works with the AQ? I read about the Tubemeter sensor, but I can't find one anywhere (I think they stopped making them?)


----------



## InfoSeeker

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mystriss*
> 
> hmmm so the AQ's can't use standard float meters either then? Alright, so what level sensor works with the AQ? I read about the Tubemeter sensor, but I can't find one anywhere (I think they stopped making them?)


Correct, the tubemeter has been discontinued and as of 2 or 3 firmware updates ago the Aquaero 6 cannot access it anymore (see red text).

Most people with an aquaero 6 use the Pressure sensor mps pressure Delta 40. Page 7 & 8 of the MPS Manual covers the device.


----------



## Mega Man

Correct


----------



## Mystriss

Well bummer... I'm not sure that'd work with my FrozenQ LF res. I could jerry rig it though if I can make a Monsoon MMRS work the way I'd like









Thanks!


----------



## InfoSeeker

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mystriss*
> 
> Well bummer... I'm not sure that'd work with my FrozenQ LF res. I could jerry rig it though if I can make a Monsoon MMRS work the way I'd like
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks!


Th FrozenQ LF res does not have a G1/4 port available top & bottom for an MPS pressure sensor?


----------



## Mega Man

You only need one. Just at the top put a pressure valve


----------



## InfoSeeker

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> You only need one. Just at the top put a pressure valve


But that requires a port for the Pressure Equalizing Membrane?


----------



## Mystriss

The FrozenQ has a "top" port, but I can't do the pressure fitting because I'm doing a horizontal mount, not that I've got enough room width wise anyway:


----------



## ratzofftoya

Hey guys, couple questions related to the Aquaero:

1.)What are the 2-pin PWM plugs used for?
2.)What is the IR led connector used for?
3.)Can the Aquaero 6XT remote control the farbwerk if it is connected by aquabus (not bluetooth)?
4.)Does the Farbwerk connect via aquabus low or high?

Thanks!


----------



## Mega Man

1 controlling stiff that uses 12v 25hz pwm signal ( ie motors or led ) up to 1a

2 an unreleased epic accessory ( on mobile out I would link to it ) basically an IR repeater do your htpcs remote can control your tv/seriously ect @Shoggy come on an release it already

3 yes

4 only high is used now. Low is disabled ( high vs low is really just high provides voltage iirc )


----------



## ratzofftoya

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> 4 only high is used now. Low is disabled ( high vs low is really just high provides voltage iirc )


Thanks! 5-way PWM splitter here I come


----------



## jaganram

Ok i got the Swiftech 8-Way PWM Splitter like every one recommended here to control all my fans on 2 Rad's. I face a new problem now due to the cable length.

I see splitter has 2 cables one i give the Sata power & the other Cable which says Connect to Motherboard CPU_Fan header. So thats the cable i need to plug to Aquaero ? Or i can put a cable from that Fan 1 which reports the RPM signal to Aquaero?


----------



## ratzofftoya

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jaganram*
> 
> Ok connected the Aquaero 6 using the USB cable to Asus RVE board.
> 
> When i boot in to Windows i see a message saying USB Unknown Device
> 
> Ok Fixed this connected it to ROG connector on the board instead of USB


I was under the impression that the ROG connector can be used for USB 2.0, as well.


----------



## ratzofftoya

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Daggi*
> 
> Mod My Toys 4 pin splitters are fully connected on the PCB, those he can use


Could you point out which ones?


----------



## ratzofftoya

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jaganram*
> 
> Ok i got the Swiftech 8-Way PWM Splitter like every one recommended here to control all my fans on 2 Rad's. I face a new problem now due to the cable length.
> 
> I see splitter has 2 cables one i give the Sata power & the other Cable which says Connect to Motherboard CPU_Fan header. So thats the cable i need to plug to Aquaero ? Or i can put a cable from that Fan 1 which reports the RPM signal to Aquaero?


You plus the cable that's suppose to go to Motherboard CPU_Fan header into one of the Aquaero PWM channels.


----------



## jaganram

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ratzofftoya*
> 
> You plus the cable that's suppose to go to Motherboard CPU_Fan header into one of the Aquaero PWM channels.


Yes thats were my issue is that cable which comes from the splitter box says connect to Motherboard Fan header is very short in length to reach the Aquaero. Is it possible to connect that cable to the cpu fan header on the board & use a cable from splitter to connect it to Aquaero at same time will this work ?


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jaganram*
> 
> Ok i got the Swiftech 8-Way PWM Splitter like every one recommended here to control all my fans on 2 Rad's. I face a new problem now due to the cable length.
> 
> I see splitter has 2 cables one i give the Sata power & the other Cable which says Connect to Motherboard CPU_Fan header. So thats the cable i need to plug to Aquaero ? Or i can put a cable from that Fan 1 which reports the RPM signal to Aquaero?


Fan1 is for a fan. That is the only fan that will report rpm one cable from the splitter is for psu ( fat 4 pin or sata power depending on model ) the other you plug into aquaero fan header


----------



## iCrap

I still really want to turn my LED strip on and off with the IR remote. Is there no way to do this? i have a 6 pro

I love the fact that i can control PC volume tho. one extra level of laziness


----------



## jaganram

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> Fan1 is for a fan. That is the only fan that will report rpm one cable from the splitter is for psu ( fat 4 pin or sata power depending on model ) the other you plug into aquaero fan header


OK splitter came with 2 cables one to give power which i connected it to a sata power cable. And the other cable i need to plug this is to Aquaero fan ports or in the motherboard ?

As i see that cable is very short in length i cant able to reach it so is there anyother way i can make this work ?


----------



## Mega Man

you plug it into the port you are using to control the fans, you need a extension it sounds like ?


----------



## jaganram

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> you plug it into the port you are using to control the fans, you need a extension it sounds like ?


Yes I understood what you have said. I gave power through sata cable & plug that other cable to aquaero. Problem i face is that cable is very short in length I can't reach the aquaero









So I need to mod the cable & extend it?


----------



## Mega Man

or just use a normal pwm extension


----------



## ratzofftoya

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jaganram*
> 
> OK splitter came with 2 cables one to give power which i connected it to a sata power cable. And the other cable i need to plug this is to Aquaero fan ports or in the motherboard ?
> 
> As i see that cable is very short in length i cant able to reach it so is there anyother way i can make this work ?


They make 'em way long!

http://www.amazon.com/Phobya-Extension-Cable-4-Pin-Sleeved/dp/B00E59PXVS


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iCrap*
> 
> I still really want to turn my LED strip on and off with the IR remote. Is there no way to do this? i have a 6 pro
> 
> I love the fact that i can control PC volume tho. one extra level of laziness


i am sure there is but it would take a while ill have too look i dont use it as much as i would like ! i like to be able to have a keyboard and mouse on my htpcs though


----------



## jaganram

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ratzofftoya*
> 
> They make 'em way long!
> 
> http://www.amazon.com/Phobya-Extension-Cable-4-Pin-Sleeved/dp/B00E59PXVS


Thanks for that exactly what i been looking for. Will try to mod a 4 pin cable i got and make it work if possible


----------



## InfoSeeker

I have a couple questions regarding Fan settings in Aquasuite > Aquaero > Fans > Settings:
What does checking the "Hold minimum power" selection box do?
And does selecting Speed controlled in Advanced settings take priority over Fan settings, with Hold minimum power ignored?


EDIT: did what I should have done initially, read the manual (underscoring mine).
Quote:


> 13.1. Minimum and maximum power
> For each fan output, the output range can be limited in both directions
> ("Minimum power"/"Maximum power"). The check box "Hold minimum pow-
> er" determines fan output behavior while the assigned controller output value
> is below the minimum power setting: If the box is not checked, the fan output
> will switched off. If the box is checked, the fan output will be set to the mini-
> mum power value and remain active. Set minimum power to a value at which
> the connected fan or pump reliably starts up.
> 13.2. Power, speed or PWM controlled mode
> In "power controlled" mode, an output value from a controller will be linearly
> converted to the range between minimum and maximum power of the fan
> output and the corresponding voltage will be set.
> In "speed controlled" mode, an output value from a controller will be linearly
> converted to the range between configured minimum and maximum speed of
> the fan output. The aquaero will adjust the output power (voltage) au-
> tonomously within the configured range of minimum and maximum power to
> maintain this fan speed.


----------



## timepart

I have an aquaero 5 and 200 Flow sensor. I have my aquaero connected via USB and my flow sensor via USB to the motherboard and via 3 pin cable to the Aquabus header. I had a flow registering of .6L/min for about 5 minutes, but then this disappeared and now nothing shows up. Cables are new out of the box and the aquaero has been going for years now without any issues. Is there something here I am missing? I realize it isnt a high flow device, but it should at least show some sort of flow. I have 2 D5s in parallel and when changed (when the device was working) the reading was pretty low for this sort of fluid driving power.

Any help would be greatly appreciated


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *timepart*
> 
> I have an aquaero 5 and 200 Flow sensor. I have my aquaero connected via USB and my flow sensor via USB to the motherboard and via 3 pin cable to the Aquabus header. I had a flow registering of .6L/min for about 5 minutes, but then this disappeared and now nothing shows up. Cables are new out of the box and the aquaero has been going for years now without any issues. Is there something here I am missing? I realize it isnt a high flow device, but it should at least show some sort of flow. I have 2 D5s in parallel and when changed (when the device was working) the reading was pretty low for this sort of fluid driving power.


You need to just check everything over. Is it installed in the right direction (I do this every time I put one in it seems), check the wiring connections and then look at the configuration. Pull the power from the pump to stop flow and hit the zero flow button


----------



## timepart

Here is a better pic of the flow meter deal. Aquabus wire I am using is called "Aquabus RPM signal Cable". USB is hooked up to my motherboard just as my Aquaero is.


----------



## InfoSeeker

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *timepart*
> 
> I have an aquaero 5 and 200 Flow sensor. I have my aquaero connected via USB and my flow sensor via USB to the motherboard and via 3 pin cable to the Aquabus header. I had a flow registering of .6L/min for about 5 minutes, but then this disappeared and now nothing shows up. Cables are new out of the box and the aquaero has been going for years now without any issues. Is there something here I am missing? I realize it isnt a high flow device, but it should at least show some sort of flow. I have 2 D5s in parallel and when changed (when the device was working) the reading was pretty low for this sort of fluid driving power.
> 
> Any help would be greatly appreciated


As Jakusonfire said, plus you should use a 4-pin cable for the aquabus connection. Never mind that it's also connected by USB to the mobo. Using a 4-pin cable for aquabus connection does no harm, and it may make problems if you don't.

Do you have any other MPS devices in the loop? (i.e.MPS pressure sensor or MPS D5 pumps)

It would also be useful if you could provide a screenshot of the "Sensor configuration" page.


----------



## timepart

It never came with a 4 pin cable, I thought also that this was needed for hook up.




It was working at one stage and was under "flow 12" which makes sense but now nothing appears. Under my MPS page my flow meter was recognized and it was displaying 777 as the active value for .6L/min. I guess im trying to figure out how to get this graph back after it disappeared.

This is the only MPS device in my loop and I have no pressure sensors either. I have 4 temp sensors that work fine and then this has caused me problems for some time now.


----------



## zerophase

I just got my Farbwerk. I noticed I'm not supposed to let the board touch anything metal. Will the standoffs built into it be enough to prevent it from shorting out components?

Will the Poweradjust mounting plate fit a Farbwerk? It looks like I don't have any predrilled holes that'll fit all of the Farbwerk standoffs.


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *timepart*
> 
> It never came with a 4 pin cable, I thought also that this was needed for hook up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It was working at one stage and was under "flow 12" which makes sense but now nothing appears. Under my MPS page my flow meter was recognized and it was displaying 777 as the active value for .6L/min. I guess im trying to figure out how to get this graph back after it disappeared.
> 
> This is the only MPS device in my loop and I have no pressure sensors either. I have 4 temp sensors that work fine and then this has caused me problems for some time now.


You have the sensor set as the wrong type of device. The Aquaero is also not detecting it through aquabus. That could possibly be because the configuration is wrong or you may just need to pull all the power for a full shutdown and restart of the Aquaero so it will detect the aquabus.


----------



## InfoSeeker

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *timepart*
> 
> It never came with a 4 pin cable, I thought also that this was needed for hook up.
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It was working at one stage and was under "flow 12" which makes sense but now nothing appears. Under my MPS page my flow meter was recognized and it was displaying 777 as the active value for .6L/min. I guess im trying to figure out how to get this graph back after it disappeared.
> 
> This is the only MPS device in my loop and I have no pressure sensors either. I have 4 temp sensors that work fine and then this has caused me problems for some time now.[


The 3-pin cable included in the delivery is intended for the alarm output from the MPS device's RPM port to the mobo CPU fan header. It generates a fan RPM signal that can be used to shut down the motherboard if the BIOS is setup for it. It is more for if the MPS unit is used as a stand-alone device, sans aquaero. The 4-pin cable is a separate purchase. Technically the 3-pin cable can be used if you maintain the USB connection, but I find it simpler to just recommend 4-pin cables for aquabus use. There is no down side.

EDIT: For clarification, the 4th pin on the aquabus provides power which is also provided by the USB connection if it is maintained.

Snippet from the product page:
Quote:


> The mps flow sensors feature an integrated microcontroller with USB and aquabus interface, a programmable alarm output, an integrated water temperature sensor and an external temperature sensor input. For monitoring and configuration, the aquasuite software can be downloaded free of charge. In addition to the USB interface, the 4-pin aquabus interface can be used to directly connect the flow sensor to an aquaero 5 controller (not included in delivery). The alarm output can be configured to be used as a rpm signal to be connected to a fan connector with fault detection (for example motherboard fan headers) or to be used as a switched output for example to connect a LED. Flow signal, water temperature and external temperature sensor input can be configured to raise an alarm.
> 
> Scope of delivery:
> One flow sensor
> One internal USB cable
> One aquabus/rpm signal cable (3 pins)


----------



## timepart

thanks for the awesome infomation! Upon a restart today there is a registration of flow in the MPS page, but nothing seems to come up in the auquacomputer sensor page. Like you said for now the device is connected via 3 pin to aquabus high port, and with USB power to the motherboard. Its weird that nothing pops up on the main page, but MPS is viewable and works


----------



## InfoSeeker

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *timepart*
> 
> thanks for the awesome infomation! Upon a restart today there is a registration of flow in the MPS page, but nothing seems to come up in the auquacomputer sensor page. Like you said for now the device is connected via 3 pin to aquabus high port, and with USB power to the motherboard. Its weird that nothing pops up on the main page, but MPS is viewable and works
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


I believe that means the flow sensor is communicating via USB but it is not communicating with the aquaero via aquabus.
Not sure how important it is, but under the MPS flow sensor > System tab have you set Priority to aquabus?


----------



## timepart

Yes it is under Aquabus. Its weird that is just doesn't want to show up at all. It worked for a little bit yesterday but then just disappeared when I went to go rename it. MPS window seems accurate with a flow of 200 L/hr, topped out, but this is fine for the time being.


----------



## electro2u

Is the MPS showing up under Windows Devices?


----------



## timepart

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> Is the MPS showing up under Windows Devices?


yes it does show up under windows devices.


----------



## InfoSeeker

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *timepart*
> 
> yes it does show up under windows devices.
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


It should show in windows because the USB connection is good.

The problem appears to be that the aquabus connection to the aquaero is fail.


----------



## timepart

I tried a different 3 pin cable, Aquacomputer brand, but still nothing shows for connected Aquabus devices. My aquabus is good on the Aquaero because the Real Time clock connection works and is fine.


----------



## zerophase

Just a quick question is there any reason to get the 4 pin aquabus cable for the Farbwerk? I'm going to plug the Farbwerk in to the aq6 xt with an Aquabus y splitter, and a mps 400 on the other end.


----------



## InfoSeeker

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zerophase*
> 
> Just a quick question is there any reason to get the 4 pin aquabus cable for the Farbwerk? I'm going to plug the Farbwerk in to the aq6 xt with an Aquabus y splitter, and a mps 400 on the other end.


The difference between the 3-pin and 4-pin aquabus cables is that the 4th pin carries power to the device.
It appear there is a 4-pin Molex power cable on the farbwerk that connect to your PSU, so a farbwerk probably does not require the 4-pin aquabus cable.

BUT, there is no down-side to using a 4-pin aquabus cable, so for simplicity I would get both cables as 4-pin. If you buy them from aquacomputer's shop, the 4-pin cable is actually 3 cents cheaper than the 3-pin cable... go figure.


----------



## wa3pnt

There is no reason to run a 4 pin Aquabus Cable to the Farbwerk, unless you do what is described below.

The USB Cable will supply the 5V required for the Farbwerk.

While the 4 pin Aquabus Cable carries 5V on the 4th wire, I'm not sure if the Farbwerk can obtain it's operating voltage from the Aquabus Cable.

Something to consider, which will be determined by the location of your MPS in relation to the Farbwerk, is that if you run a 4 pin Aquabus Cable to the Farbwerk, you can then daisy chain another 4 pin Aquabus Cable from the second header on the Farbwerk to the MPS and eliminate the "Y" splitter.

RodeoGeorge


----------



## zerophase

I might do that eventually. Performance pcs is out of the 4 pin cables for now. I just have to figure out, if the 5.25" Bay mount matches up with a Farbwerk.


----------



## electro2u

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *timepart*
> 
> yes it does show up under windows devices.


Ok try using a 4 pin cable like InfoSeeker has suggested. That should do the trick. Vaguely remember having to make a 4 pin female to female for the mps.


----------



## Daggi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ratzofftoya*
> 
> Could you point out which ones?


Here you go : http://www.performance-pcs.com/modmytoys-4-pin-pwm-power-distribution-pcb-4-way-block.html


----------



## galletabah

Hi guys, what do you recomende me to buy? An aq5 pro or 6pro?
I have 4 ap 15, 3 nlooop a regular d5 with rpm sensor and
2 water temp sensor
I like the LCD but i dont know if the 5pro show the same than the 6pro


----------



## tju76

Hey All I figured i would ask my questions here before sending in a support ticket question to Acquacomputer. I am having some difficulty figuring out exactly what i will need for accessories to hook all my components up to the Acquaero 6 XT.

Components:

2x Acquacomputer D5 Pump with Acquabus
1X Acquacomputer Farbwerk USB, Acquabus version
16-23 EK Vardar PWM Fans

Now from what I have gathered for information so far, I can hook up the fans using the swiftech 8 way PWM splitter without any problems. http://www.swiftech.com/8-WayPWMsplitter.aspx

As for the pumps from what i have gathered they are connected to the highspeed Acquabus port and in addition the farbwerk is also connected to the highspeed port, so how would i go about connecting all these devices if even possible.

Thanks for all the help guys.


----------



## wa3pnt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tju76*
> 
> As for the pumps from what i have gathered they are connected to the highspeed Acquabus port and in addition the farbwerk is also connected to the highspeed port, so how would i go about connecting all these devices if even possible.
> 
> Thanks for all the help guys.


With regards to the Aquabus connections, I would run an Aquabus cable from the Aquaero to the Farbwerk. There is a second Aquabus Header on the Farbwerk you can use to daisy chain the Aquabus cables. I would then use a 3 pin splitter to continue the Aquabus to the two pumps.

You can use the 3 pin, or the 4 pin Aquabus cables. Just use the appropriate splitter.

RodeoGeorge


----------



## InfoSeeker

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *galletabah*
> 
> Hi guys, what do you recomende me to buy? An aq5 pro or 6pro?
> I have 4 ap 15, 3 nlooop a regular d5 with rpm sensor and
> 2 water temp sensor
> I like the LCD but i dont know if the 5pro show the same than the 6pro


aquaero 6 introduction, and yes, I believe the 5pro & 6pro displays are the same.


----------



## Mega Man

They are. If you want more then 1 pwm fan channel get a 6. I'd you don't want to deal with heat and voltage control get a 6


----------



## tju76

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wa3pnt*
> 
> With regards to the Aquabus connections, I would run an Aquabus cable from the Aquaero to the Farbwerk. There is a second Aquabus Header on the Farbwerk you can use to daisy chain the Aquabus cables. I would then use a 3 pin splitter to continue the Aquabus to the two pumps.
> 
> You can use the 3 pin, or the 4 pin Aquabus cables. Just use the appropriate splitter.
> 
> RodeoGeorge


Do the pumps come with a 4 pin or 3 pin aquabus cable i will just get the same splitter.


----------



## wa3pnt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tju76*
> 
> Do the pumps come with a 4 pin or 3 pin aquabus cable i will just get the same splitter.


The Pumps and MPS devices come with the 3 pin Aquabus Cable.

If you obtain a 3pin splitter, ensure that all 3 pins are present on both ends. Some (for fans) drop the third wire to one of the ends.

RodeoGeorge


----------



## jeanspaulo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> Essentially there is no difference except that using fan header one as a flow port sacrifices a useful fan header.
> If you have the high flow meter then plug it into the flow port. Pretty straight forward.
> If you have a poweradjust and it would be easier or neater to connect the flow meter to it, instead of the Aquaero then do that. You would then just need to ensure the poweradjust is connected via Aquabus if you want to have the Aquaero monitor that meter for say, a flow alarm


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> Plug it into the flow port on the aq6


Thank you so much for the clarification.


----------



## InfoSeeker

done


----------



## jeanspaulo

Hello guys, Finally I'm powering up my system and everything looks fine but I have 2 things that I cant figure out how to solve till now, the first one its that my Aquaero 6XT keeps showing random wrong date and time on the display, I tried to synchronize it with the aquasuit option, when I sync it appears correctly but a few seconds later it get wrong again, I also tried to setup using the optins on the aquaero but just after confirm the setup it shows wrong again.
How can I solve this ?

And the another doubt its about the pump, I made the It Diva's DIY cable to use the swiftech pump with the aquaero , I tested the cable and its ok. my doubt it where to plug the pump what aquaero header for now I'm using on the 4 fan header and setup it as PWM. But I saw that on the aquasuit theres some Pump options and I'm not figuring out where is the correct header to plug the pump.

Thanks,


----------



## Mega Man

the clock, i am unsure of, maybe check the time zone ?

the pump i think i understand you - if you have a aqua computer pump you can plug it into the aquabus and you can goto the pump section of aquasuite

otherwise just treat it like a fan


----------



## jeanspaulo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> the clock, i am unsure of, maybe check the time zone ?
> 
> the pump i think i understand you - if you have a aqua computer pump you can plug it into the aquabus and you can goto the pump section of aquasuite
> 
> otherwise just treat it like a fan


Thanks mega, for the pump so Its ok I'm already treating it like a fan.
For the clock its very strange because not only the clock keeps getting wrong but the date too. Some times showing year 2010 or 2014. For the the **** I'm from Brazil I tryed to set time zone but it doesn't work either, after a few seconds before setup the clock and date change itself to a wrong setup again.


----------



## MrPT

Guys Im looking for front template for aquaero 6xt. Is there any chance to get cdr file with it ?


----------



## RoostrC0gburn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mystriss*
> 
> I wonder if he meant it wasn't possible the way they tried to do it or just as a whole... I don't think it'd be possible with a typical ribbon cable/KK row connector either - I was eyeballing the header on my AQ5LT and pictures of the back of the replacement AQ5/6 XT faceplate, and it looks like they've got 3 or 4 pins that make a "sideways" connection between the first and second row of pins, however I was thinking with individual kk pins and/or a bit of soldering I could replicate that connection exactly.


would love to collaborate on this. please post any experimenting you do!


----------



## Nardokor

Honestly somewhat disappointed that the black face wasn't made out of metal, especially for $11, but the unit itself feels great.


----------



## Mega Man

?

it is anodized al
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrPT*
> 
> Guys Im looking for front template for aquaero 6xt. Is there any chance to get cdr file with it ?


speak with @Shoggy

there is one for the old aquaero 5s but not the new style . the ir cutout was made from a circle to an elongated section


----------



## Nardokor

Based on weight and feel I'm pretty sure it's delrin.


----------



## Mega Man

ok
feel free to search through this and other threads, shoggy even talks about getting it anodized in another forum * that i wont be spending time to find *
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DewMan*
> 
> Hey @Shoggy , Can you tell us if the finish on the Optional black faceplate is anodized or not? If it's not that'll limit my options as to removing the markings cleanly.
> 
> Edit:
> Ahh! according to PPCS description "using this black anodized aluminum bezel, the aquaero perfectly matches any black PC case." It's anodized. I may be able to cleanly remove the markings yet.


and shoggys response [email protected]
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *DewMan*
> 
> How to remove what appears to be silk screened(?) markings on the optional black faceplate for 6Pro?
> 
> 
> 
> Not possible since it is a laser engraving and no painting etc.
Click to expand...


----------



## zerophase

On the Farbwerk I plug the pin marked with a white arrow to the arrow on a mod my toys cable?

Which direction do I attach the led wire to the connecting cable? I don't see an indicator for the proper direction on the strip.


----------



## Mystriss

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RoostrC0gburn*
> 
> would love to collaborate on this. please post any experimenting you do!


Well of course I'd be posting it up in here







Unfortunately I don't have an AQ6 yet, I was going to buy one like a week ago but the seller seems to have disappeared so I suppose I'll just have to order one. ~shrug~

This does bring up a question for everyone though, can I test this on the AQ5 LT? I was under the impression that the board is exactly the same for the 5LT as the 5XT, it was just what parts shipped with it right? So like I could buy a 5/6XT replacement faceplate and hook that up to my 5LT or no?


----------



## Mega Man

no

you would need a LCD and faceplate, the pro lcd /faceplate is different from the xt/ the lcd is the same part but the board it is mounted on is different, the pro has physical buttons, the xt has touch


----------



## Mystriss

Ah I was thinking the old 5XT & 6XT were buttoned and now you could upgrade them to the touch ~shrug~


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zerophase*
> 
> On the Farbwerk I plug the pin marked with a white arrow to the arrow on a mod my toys cable?
> 
> Which direction do I attach the led wire to the connecting cable? I don't see an indicator for the proper direction on the strip.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


In my experience with the modmytoys cable, . . . . it's a mess.

The edge of the plug with the index mark is +12V, then mine is wired R, G, B.

Which meant the red came on for green and vice versa. . . until I fixed it by re-soldering

The standard on most LED strips is: +12V, G, R, B . . . . although I have had strips labeled that way that had the G and B reversed

The Farby indicates +12V, B, R, G, but seems to work as +12, G, R, B the same as most strips are labeled.

The modmytoys cables suck, but the one from AC is OK, when you can find it in stock.

Darlene

8


----------



## zerophase

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> In my experience with the modmytoys cable, . . . . it's a mess.
> 
> The edge of the plug with the index mark is +12V, then mine is wired R, G, B.
> 
> Which meant the red came on for green and vice versa. . . until I fixed it by re-soldering
> 
> The standard on most LED strips is: +12V, G, R, B . . . . although I have had strips labeled that way that had the G and B reversed
> 
> The Farby indicates +12V, B, R, G, but seems to work as +12, G, R, B the same as most strips are labeled.
> 
> The modmytoys cables suck, but the one from AC is OK, when you can find it in stock.
> 
> Darlene
> 
> 8


Thanks ffor that very informative post.
Actually, noticed my flex lights have enough length to plug in without the Mod My Toys cable. I just have to pull back the heatshrink to see which direction it goes in. If I do plug them in backwards would it kill a channel?


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zerophase*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> In my experience with the modmytoys cable, . . . . it's a mess.
> 
> The edge of the plug with the index mark is +12V, then mine is wired R, G, B.
> 
> Which meant the red came on for green and vice versa. . . until I fixed it by re-soldering
> 
> The standard on most LED strips is: +12V, G, R, B . . . . although I have had strips labeled that way that had the G and B reversed
> 
> The Farby indicates +12V, B, R, G, but seems to work as +12, G, R, B the same as most strips are labeled.
> 
> The modmytoys cables suck, but the one from AC is OK, when you can find it in stock.
> 
> Darlene
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 8
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks ffor that very informative post.
> Actually, noticed my flex lights have enough length to plug in without the Mod My Toys cable. I just have to pull back the heatshrink to see which direction it goes in. *If I do plug them in backwards would it kill a channel*?
Click to expand...

No, won't hurt anything, they just won't come on . . .

D.


----------



## MrPT

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> ?
> 
> it is anodized al
> speak with @Shoggy
> 
> there is one for the old aquaero 5s but not the new style . the ir cutout was made from a circle to an elongated section


Well i better like old style, do you have it maybe ?


----------



## Mega Man

Ill have to search the Web when I get home


----------



## TViper04

performance-pcs has 4 of them,

Frontplate for aquaero 5 XT Aluminum - Black
http://www.performance-pcs.com/frontplate-for-aquaero-5-xt-aluminum-black.html


----------



## iBruce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nardokor*
> 
> Based on weight and feel I'm pretty sure it's delrin.


AC is making the faceplates out of Delrin now?

The lettering on yours is much brighter than the dull white on my black anodized aluminum faceplate.

Where did you get it?

If this is true, I'll swap out my aluminum for the Delrin, looks nice.

Also can we use the 2-pin PWM pwr output on the Aquaero 6 to run the AquaComputer PWM D5 pump? or must it use one of the fan channels?


----------



## Jakusonfire

If you go back a few pages there are posts with info about the 2 pin pwm headers.
They are 1A max power outlets and not fur use with pwm controlled devices.

PWM controlled devices require a fan header to work as designed.


----------



## Mega Man

Correct. 12v pwm.


----------



## jvillaveces

I just finished my build for my son, which includes an AQ6 and an MPS400 flow sensor. I am using Monsoon Free Center 1/2" -3/4" fittings. The flow rate numbers I'm getting seem a bit low: maximum 0.8 gpm. The pump is an Aquacomputer D5 PWM hooked to the AQ6, and there's only a CPU block (EK Supremacy Evo) and one GPU block (EK FC Titan X), plus two rads: an EK XE 240 and an Alphacool XT45 360.
The closest "stock" calibration option in Aquasuite is for 13 mm-10 mm fittings, so I don't know whether I have some unexpected restriction somewhere in the loop or simply need to use a better calibration curve. Does anyone have an xml file or calibration table for the MPS400 with 1/2"-3/4" fittings?


----------



## zerophase

I'm getting CPU fan error messages from my Rampage V Extreme, during boot. Chino on the Asus forums thinks it's from my fans not turning on fast enough. I have all of my fans connected to the AQ6. I do have the pump being controlled from the AQ6, and monitored on the motherboard. Is there anyway to make the AQ6 start the fans faster? They run at full throttle during boot, for the first 30 seconds.


----------



## Nardokor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iBruce*
> 
> AC is making the faceplates out of Delrin now?


After testing no. I scratched at a back surface to see if i just got more black or aluminum and got to aluminum. It's just a brushed finish that looks nothing like other brushed aluminum surfaces I've seen. Might try my hand at making one out of one of the bay covers that came with my case. Always wanted to try my hand at stealthing.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zerophase*
> 
> I'm getting CPU fan error messages from my Rampage V Extreme, during boot. Chino on the Asus forums thinks it's from my fans not turning on fast enough. I have all of my fans connected to the AQ6. I do have the pump being controlled from the AQ6, and monitored on the motherboard. Is there anyway to make the AQ6 start the fans faster? They run at full throttle during boot, for the first 30 seconds.


if you are using an aquaero then your mobo knows nothing about the fans, what do you have plugged into the motherboard CPU fan header?


----------



## Costas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jvillaveces*
> 
> Does anyone have an xml file or calibration table for the MPS400 with 1/2"-3/4" fittings?


Take a look at the following thread.... http://www.overclock.net/t/1501978/ocn-community-water-cooling-test-thread

Myself and fast_fate have generated calibrated XML files for Bitspower fittings which are more than likely close enough for you to test with.

Have you modified your PWM controlled D5 with a pullup (aka diva mod) so that it operates correctly with the Aquaero?


----------



## zerophase

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> if you are using an aquaero then your mobo knows nothing about the fans, what do you have plugged into the motherboard CPU fan header?


I have a swiftech pwm splitter. Both pumps are plugged into it, one end goes to the aq, and the other goes to the cpu fan header. The aq drives them, and I just monitor them from the cpu header.


----------



## Mega Man

you can not have one goto the aquaero and one to the mobo, not possible

you need to take the 3pin cable that came and plug it into ( with the pc off ) the rpm header on the aquaero and the other into the cpu header,

then you need to configure your aquaero to output a rpm signal !

you have 2 options !~

1 disable cpu fan monitoring then go into aquaero under alarms - under normal operation/power on ( i dont remember exactly what it is called and on my laptop- can not pull up aquasuite ) set to turn on rpm signal then go back into bios and turn back on cpu fan monitoring

2 do it from the aquaero

which again would take you fooling around, sorry i dont have the best memory when it comes to this kind of stuff


----------



## zerophase

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> you can not have one goto the aquaero and one to the mobo, not possible
> 
> you need to take the 3pin cable that came and plug it into ( with the pc off ) the rpm header on the aquaero and the other into the cpu header,
> 
> then you need to configure your aquaero to output a rpm signal !
> 
> you have 2 options !~
> 
> 1 disable cpu fan monitoring then go into aquaero under alarms - under normal operation/power on ( i dont remember exactly what it is called and on my laptop- can not pull up aquasuite ) set to turn on rpm signal then go back into bios and turn back on cpu fan monitoring
> 
> 2 do it from the aquaero
> 
> which again would take you fooling around, sorry i dont have the best memory when it comes to this kind of stuff


This is the cable I'm refering to. I meant the rpm is being monitored, by the mobile while the Aquaero powers the pumps. So, I won't be able to use pwm controls? Would that have a negative effect on the lower range of pump speeds? I think I know where the setting is.

if I keep it on pwm couldn't I just use the Aquaero 24 pin power break to shut down the computer in case of an emergency?


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zerophase*
> 
> This is the cable I'm refering to. I meant the rpm is being monitored, by the mobile while the Aquaero powers the pumps. So, I won't be able to use pwm controls? Would that have a negative effect on the lower range of pump speeds? I think I know where the setting is.
> 
> if I keep it on pwm couldn't I just use the Aquaero 24 pin power break to shut down the computer in case of an emergency?


No, you were correct to begin with. That cable is designed to give you two pumps controlled by one PWM signal (Aquaero in your case) and a second tach signal output for the slaved pump (MB in your case). Only PWM settings on the Aq will work with the pumps so don't change that.

It really should be working. The only things I can think of off the top of my head would be a grounding problem for the MBs tach signal, or maybe the MB won't register an RPM without providing power? I assume you checked the cable and connections.

The fans can't be affecting anything though seeing as it is the pump that is feeding the MB signal so fiddling with the settings for them is not necessary.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jvillaveces*
> 
> I just finished my build for my son, which includes an AQ6 and an MPS400 flow sensor. I am using Monsoon Free Center 1/2" -3/4" fittings. The flow rate numbers I'm getting seem a bit low: maximum 0.8 gpm. The pump is an Aquacomputer D5 PWM hooked to the AQ6, and there's only a CPU block (EK Supremacy Evo) and one GPU block (EK FC Titan X), plus two rads: an EK XE 240 and an Alphacool XT45 360.
> The closest "stock" calibration option in Aquasuite is for 13 mm-10 mm fittings, so I don't know whether I have some unexpected restriction somewhere in the loop or simply need to use a better calibration curve. Does anyone have an xml file or calibration table for the MPS400 with 1/2"-3/4" fittings?


Is that absolutely everything in the loop? No QD fittings or filters or antic cyclone restrictors? You should be getting a fair bit more if it is the lot.
I have a similar loop running but with narrower tube and thinner, more restrictive rads and get 4.6Lpm / 1.2Gpm

What speed is the pump reporting?


----------



## zerophase

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> No, you were correct to begin with. That cable is designed to give you two pumps controlled by one PWM signal (Aquaero in your case) and a second tach signal output for the slaved pump (MB in your case). Only PWM settings on the Aq will work with the pumps so don't change that.
> 
> It really should be working. The only things I can think of off the top of my head would be a grounding problem for the MBs tach signal, or maybe the MB won't register an RPM without providing power? I assume you checked the cable and connections.
> 
> The fans can't be affecting anything though seeing as it is the pump that is feeding the MB signal so fiddling with the settings for them is not necessary.


Yeah, the 3 pin female is plugged in at the key. The left most pin of the 4 for the CPU fan is empty.


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zerophase*
> 
> Yeah, the 3 pin female is plugged in at the key. The left most pin of the 4 for the CPU fan is empty.


I notice you use the Dual DDC pumps. They can sometimes suffer from delayed start. They can also begin to hesitate longer and longer til they just begin to flat out refuse to start.

So keep an eye on how they are working. I assume the fan error warning is just momentary and the pumps do begin to run and provide an RPM signal?


----------



## Origondoo

Hello all,

for my CL S3 build I still try to do something very unique. So I came up with an idea to have an 6-7" LCD in the bay of the pedestal. The main job for this LCD would be to display the Aquasuite data.
And now I have a question: Does the AQ Suite run on Rapsberry Pi? I was thinking to connect the Aquaero to Raspberry Pi via USB and AQ Suite to autostart in windowed mode.

Someone who already did that kind of mod?

That's the sort of display I have in mind


----------



## zerophase

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> I notice you use the Dual DDC pumps. They can sometimes suffer from delayed start. They can also begin to hesitate longer and longer til they just begin to flat out refuse to start.
> 
> So keep an eye on how they are working. I assume the fan error warning is just momentary and the pumps do begin to run and provide an RPM signal?


Yeah, the motherboard detects an rpm signal once I get in the bios. Think I'll just pick up the atx break incase they fail. Would the atx break trip if just one fails?

If only one pump is having issues would it trigger the fan error?

The Aquaero doesn't show pump rpm or flow above 0 until about 2 to 3 seconds after power on. 75% power is shown going to the pump, the second I press power. I went ahead and set a warning if the rpm doesn't raise for 6 seconds.
Is 2 seconds higher than ideal? Should I bump the power up for start?

I can't seem to get the flow alarm working for the mps400. I just see flow 1 listed, while the mps 400 is flow 11. It definitely lists the flow from the mps 400 on the aq display, it just isn't listed in the alarm settings.

I wasn't getting this issu,until I removed the 1 fan header I had plugged into the mobo. It wasn't on the cpu fan header, though.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zerophase*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> you can not have one goto the aquaero and one to the mobo, not possible
> 
> you need to take the 3pin cable that came and plug it into ( with the pc off ) the rpm header on the aquaero and the other into the cpu header,
> 
> then you need to configure your aquaero to output a rpm signal !
> 
> you have 2 options !~
> 
> 1 disable cpu fan monitoring then go into aquaero under alarms - under normal operation/power on ( i dont remember exactly what it is called and on my laptop- can not pull up aquasuite ) set to turn on rpm signal then go back into bios and turn back on cpu fan monitoring
> 
> 2 do it from the aquaero
> 
> which again would take you fooling around, sorry i dont have the best memory when it comes to this kind of stuff
> 
> 
> 
> This is the cable I'm refering to. I meant the rpm is being monitored, by the mobile while the Aquaero powers the pumps. So, I won't be able to use pwm controls? Would that have a negative effect on the lower range of pump speeds? I think I know where the setting is.
> 
> if I keep it on pwm couldn't I just use the Aquaero 24 pin power break to shut down the computer in case of an emergency?
Click to expand...

I am sorry. I thought you needn't the 8 pwm spliter. Jak is probably right. The pump is probably starting later.

An easy fix is to have the aq output a rpm signal as I stated above. Shut it off if either of the pumps fail . Then you don't need the 24 pin. Up to you. Either way both are not plug and play you have to program the aq


----------



## Artah

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zerophase*
> 
> I'm getting CPU fan error messages from my Rampage V Extreme, during boot. Chino on the Asus forums thinks it's from my fans not turning on fast enough. I have all of my fans connected to the AQ6. I do have the pump being controlled from the AQ6, and monitored on the motherboard. Is there anyway to make the AQ6 start the fans faster? They run at full throttle during boot, for the first 30 seconds.


I don't know if someone mentioned it already but for me I'm taking the PWM signal from the AQ6 and feeding it into the motherboard to fool it that the fan is fine.


----------



## SHNS0

Hey guys I'm set about buying one of these in the future.

My problem is that I use some really power-hungry fans, and what I'd like to do is feed them current directly from the power supply while retaining the PWM control through the Aquaero. Anyone has experience with doing this? How many fans can you control with a PWM splitter going into a single 4-pin connector on the unit?


----------



## Mega Man

The more pwm fans you control the more your speed range lowers.

Generally starts happening at about 8 fans.

You can easily pull power from psu and not aq. Several splitters (pcb and wired) do this. Or you can just make the fan have 2 plugs


----------



## zerophase

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Artah*
> 
> I don't know if someone mentioned it already but for me I'm taking the PWM signal from the AQ6 and feeding it into the motherboard to fool it that the fan is fine.


Do you mean you're plugging one of the aq headers directly to the mobo, or using a splitter cable like I have?


----------



## Mega Man

He means the same thing I detailed.

Hopefully when I get home I can have some time indoor of my pc and I can fosse you through the process

Both 1 and 2 are for the same thing. Just different ways to do it
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> you can not have one goto the aquaero and one to the mobo, not possible
> 
> you need to take the 3pin cable that came and plug it into ( with the pc off ) the rpm header on the aquaero and the other into the cpu header,
> 
> then you need to configure your aquaero to output a rpm signal !
> 
> you have 2 options !~
> 
> 1 disable cpu fan monitoring then go into aquaero under alarms - under normal operation/power on ( i dont remember exactly what it is called and on my laptop- can not pull up aquasuite ) set to turn on rpm signal then go back into bios and turn back on cpu fan monitoring
> 
> 2 do it from the aquaero
> 
> which again would take you fooling around, sorry i dont have the best memory when it comes to this kind of stuff


----------



## SHNS0

I won't be running more than 2-3 fans per channel. Thing is, these bastards want 1.65 amps each, so having them get the current from either the motherboard or the Aquaero is a big no-no. I'm re-wiring everything from scratch so making a splitter isn't really a big deal, but I have no experience with doing this on pwm fans.
What type of degradation do you get exactly? Not being able to run the fan at full/min speed?


----------



## Artah

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zerophase*
> 
> Do you mean you're plugging one of the aq headers directly to the mobo, or using a splitter cable like I have?


Not the fan headers. There is actual separate PWM signal outputs from the AQ6 that you can connect to the motherboard.


----------



## Mega Man

The pwm headers are 12v. Don't use them
There is a 3 pin "rpm" port
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SHNS0*
> 
> I won't be running more than 2-3 fans per channel. Thing is, these bastards want 1.65 amps each, so having them get the current from either the motherboard or the Aquaero is a big no-no. I'm re-wiring everything from scratch so making a splitter isn't really a big deal, but I have no experience with doing this on pwm fans.
> What type of degradation do you get exactly? Not being able to run the fan at full/min speed?


They don't slow down as much when you add too many fans


----------



## jvillaveces

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> Is that absolutely everything in the loop? No QD fittings or filters or antic cyclone restrictors? You should be getting a fair bit more if it is the lot.
> I have a similar loop running but with narrower tube and thinner, more restrictive rads and get 4.6Lpm / 1.2Gpm
> 
> What speed is the pump reporting?


Jakus, essentially, yes, that is all. There's a bunch of fittings, but I'd be surprised if they were THAT restrictive overall:
- I have a few 90 deg and 45 deg fittings on different blocks to simplify tubing runs
- there's a drain valve on a q fitting out of the pump (one outlet to loop, one plugged, one to drain)
- the pump is connected to the lower rad with all Bp fittings (one triple rotary 90 deg with one double rotary 90 on each end) and no tubing
- the GPU block is connected via a bridge (included with it), but I think this actually reduces the number of elbows vs what would be needed to link it directly to the rest of the loop

At 100%, the pump is reading 4830 rpm, as expected. Temps are also OK. The only out of place number I'm getting is the flow rate. I know you're a bit of an expert on this, so any advice would be welcome. I mean, I can just leave the rig as is and move on (I may have to anyway or my kid my strangle me in my sleep), but I just can't not deal with a problem, or at least understand it.


----------



## jvillaveces

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Costas*
> 
> Take a look at the following thread.... http://www.overclock.net/t/1501978/ocn-community-water-cooling-test-thread
> 
> Myself and fast_fate have generated calibrated XML files for Bitspower fittings which are more than likely close enough for you to test with.
> 
> Have you modified your PWM controlled D5 with a pullup (aka diva mod) so that it operates correctly with the Aquaero?


No need to mod the pump, it's the Aquacomputer pwm version and it works with the AQ6 out of the box -- that's why I chose it and I'm happy so far.
I found one of fast-fate's tables, from which I easily enough made an xml file and imported it to Aquasuite, but after that post, there are several pages of discussion between f_f and several others, including @Jakusonfire among others, about how to get a better approximation -- something about using more decimals and shorter intervals. Unfortunately, I was not able to find any other xml files or tables. Can you point me to one or pm me?

The difference between the stock Aquasuite calibration and the file I made from fast's post is insgnificant (a few hundredths of gpm) at 100% rpm for my pump. It may be more substantial at other points in the curve, I haven't checked. Since inspecting my loop doesn't offer (me!) a ready explanation for the lower-than-expected flow rate, I am hoping I can call it measurement error, i.e., the calibration is faulty, rather than having to undertake a painstaking process of troubleshooting each component in the loop for actual vs expected restriction, but even if I end up down that road, having a reliable flow measurement will be key.


----------



## Costas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jvillaveces*
> 
> No need to mod the pump, it's the Aquacomputer pwm version


Ah - OK I missed that.

You can also try my MPS400 calibration files (attachments in the post): http://www.overclock.net/t/1501978/ocn-community-water-cooling-test-thread/460#post_23914548

However they may not make make much difference either - as they are similar to fast_fates.

Only other thing I can think of is whether you have zero'ed the sensor correctly - ie at rest, zero flow? Also check whether you have or have not enabled 'auto zero' calibration. This only really works if your Aquaero is kept powered up when the pump(s) is not running..ie PC in standby etc.


----------



## jvillaveces

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Costas*
> 
> Ah - OK I missed that.
> 
> You can also try my MPS400 calibration files (attachments in the post): http://www.overclock.net/t/1501978/ocn-community-water-cooling-test-thread/460#post_23914548
> 
> However they may not make make much difference either - as they are similar to fast_fates.
> 
> Only other thing I can think of is whether you have zero'ed the sensor correctly - ie at rest, zero flow? Also check whether you have or have not enabled 'auto zero' calibration. This only really works if your Aquaero is kept powered up when the pump(s) is not running..ie PC in standby etc.


Thank you for the link, I will try the files. I didn't zero the sensor at all. Am I supposed to unplug the pump and tell Aquasuite that is zero flow? Both the AQ6 and the flow sensor are hooked to USB, and the system is hooked to a UPS, so the AQ6 does run all the time. That might also explain why at 50% rpm I get a reading of "0" gpm flow (unscaled value of 27)?


----------



## jeanspaulo

Hello @Shoggy , I hope You can help me , I think everything but till now I still get problem with the Date Time of my Aquaero 6xt.
I updated it to the latest Firmware, its connected directly with the motherboard to the USB port but the clock and calendar on the display keeps showing random value on the clock and date some times shows some day of some month 2010 or 2011 or 2014 its just random and the clock too.
I'm from Brazil, my motherboard (Asus Maximus 6 Extreme) has the latest bios the Aquasuit its the 2015-9 I downloaded it from the link on the first page on this thread.
My windows its Win 7 Ultimate all updated.
Another thing is that even after I go to aquasuite System options and Time Settings and click on the Synchronize Time when I did it the clock and calendar change to equal the SO but after a few minutes it changes back to randon again just by itself.
On the Time settings I have checked Use Daylight saving time, 24h time format and Day.Month.Year format and on timezone I configured with -3 but I also set it to zero , + 3 , + 2 and a lot more options but it seems not work..








its beem a fight kkkkkk

Thanks


----------



## zerophase

If I use an AQ standby break would I still be able to use the onboard RVE Start buttons, and Safe boot buttons for turning the machine on?


----------



## Mega Man

It depends on how you set it up. But yes you can set it up so that you can


----------



## Costas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jvillaveces*
> 
> Thank you for the link, I will try the files. I didn't zero the sensor at all.


It is important that the sensor is zeroed every so often otherwise the whole calibration curve will shift up or down by the amount the zero value drifts.

It will drift even due to temp changes.

You can do it manually or let the Aquaero fo the zeroing for you automatically.

In the setup for the MPS curves you will see a tick box which enables auto zeroing of the sensor. Make sure this box is ticked.

Once enabled the Aquaero will automatically set the zero point when the unit itself is powered up but with the pumps not running. So when the pc is sitting there switched off and the Aquaero still has power going to it - it will automatically rezero the MPS sensor in this state.


----------



## jvillaveces

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Costas*
> 
> It is important that the sensor is zeroed every so often otherwise the whole calibration curve will shift up or down by the amount the zero value drifts.
> 
> It will drift even due to temp changes.
> 
> You can do it manually or let the Aquaero fo the zeroing for you automatically.
> 
> In the setup for the MPS curves you will see a tick box which enables auto zeroing of the sensor. Make sure this box is ticked.
> 
> Once enabled the Aquaero will automatically set the zero point when the unit itself is powered up but with the pumps not running. So when the pc is sitting there switched off and the Aquaero still has power going to it - it will automatically rezero the MPS sensor in this state.


OK, I disconnected the pump and clicked on "set current flow as zero". It flashed green for a while, and then when I reconnected the pump, set at 50%, the unscaled value went to 42, so I guess it did move the curve, BTW, I'm still using fast_fate's curve. OTOH, at 100%, it still reports only 0.9 gpm. Here's my page from Aquasuite:



Also, here is a picture of the system, where you can see the loop and fittings:


----------



## Costas

Ok I think I see your problem...

Its where you have mounted the MPS400. It really needs approx. 50mm or more of straight line tubing before and after the sensor.

It is not recommended to have bends near the sensor as it can/will upset the supplied calibration values substantially.

Also fast_fate and myself found that mounting it directly adjacent the inlet side of a pump affects the calibration with varying flow rates. Better placing it on the output side if possible.


----------



## zerophase

Is this all I need for the Aquaero to turn the computer on?


----------



## Mega Man

No you would need to wire the power switch to the relay ( com/n.o. ) then program the aq to close the relay when you want to


----------



## jvillaveces

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Costas*
> 
> Ok I think I see your problem...
> 
> Its where you have mounted the MPS400. It really needs approx. 50mm or more of straight line tubing before and after the sensor.
> 
> It is not recommended to have bends near the sensor as it can/will upset the supplied calibration values substantially.
> 
> Also fast_fate and myself found that mounting it directly adjacent the inlet side of a pump affects the calibration with varying flow rates. Better placing it on the output side if possible.


Thank you! +1
I read that thread a couple of times, and still missed the tip to mount it on the outlet side of the pump. I did read in the manual that it shouldn't be placed near bends, but I couldn't find a location in the loop that met that requirement without looking terrible, so I decided to compromise. Of course, when I turned the system on, I totally forgot about this. I guess I will have to live without a reliable flow rate indication, but at least I can rest easy about having to find and fix mysterious restrictions.


----------



## Shoggy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jeanspaulo*
> 
> Another thing is that even after I go to aquasuite System options and Time Settings and click on the Synchronize Time when I did it the clock and calendar change to equal the SO but after a few minutes it changes back to randon again just by itself.


As soon as the time and date is correct you should disconnect the USB cable so you can check if the random values will be caused that way or if it is something that the aquaero does itself. No solution so far but one step forward to tell where the problem might have its root.


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jvillaveces*
> 
> Thank you! +1
> I read that thread a couple of times, and still missed the tip to mount it on the outlet side of the pump. I did read in the manual that it shouldn't be placed near bends, but I couldn't find a location in the loop that met that requirement without looking terrible, so I decided to compromise. Of course, when I turned the system on, I totally forgot about this. I guess I will have to live without a reliable flow rate indication, but at least I can rest easy about having to find and fix mysterious restrictions.


That pic is a bit hard to decipher as to how the meter is actually connected to the loop and its proximity to the pump but it absolutely could be a factor. The other thing I can see is in that Bitspower res it looks like you have an anti vortex fitting? Those things can be very restrictive.

The low unscaled values at 50% does seem to indicate a calibration or measurement problem


----------



## ruffhi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Costas*
> 
> Its where you have mounted the MPS400. It really needs approx. 50mm or more of straight line tubing before and after the sensor.
> 
> It is not recommended to have bends near the sensor as it can/will upset the supplied calibration values substantially.


I am looking at building a water cooled system (CPU block, 1 x GPU block, 2 x 360 rads - overkill from cooling but tons of upside) that will include a aquaero 5 or 6. The flow meeting I am looking at is the 'Aquacomputer Flow Sensor 'High Flow' G1/4 for Aquaero 5/6 , Aquastream XT Ultra and Poweradjust'. Initial plans are to put two in the system, one just after the pump and one just before the reservoir. Your comment re '50mm of straight line tubing before and after' has thrown my initial plans (re the flow sensor after the pump) in the trash.

So ... questions ...

Do I need two flow meetings? Won't the liquid all be travelling at roughly the same speed in the loop?

The way I see it, I really only have two locations with 140mm of straight run ... a) back into the res, b) out of the rad into the CPU block ... any preference re location from those two?

I could 'create' a longer run by taking my tube from the pump to the rad on a detour ... is that worth while or just adding unnessary loop length?


----------



## Costas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ruffhi*
> 
> Do I need two flow meetings? Won't the liquid all be travelling at roughly the same speed in the loop?


Only one flow meter is required. As you state the flow is the same around the loop - only the pressure varies as the fluid traverses through different items.

Note that the MPS400 device measures differential pressure across its internal port whereas the 'Hi-Flow' sensor operates differently in that it has a rotating impeller which the fluid pushes around. The impeller has two magnets on it which are sensed via a Hall Effect device and this device sends out pulses to the Aquaero. The velocity of the fluid then determines the speed of the impeller which gives you the flow.

So the Hi-Flow sensor is not affected by pressure as much as compared to the MPS400.

When we place angle fittings etc near a sensor it introduces a large pressure change (as compared to a straight fitting). The pressure value changes as the flow changes thereby causing all sorts of non linearity issues which plays havoc with calibration values.

Another thing that affects these sensors is how laminar the fluid flow is. Having angle fittings and/or bends close to the sensor results in the fluid flow being turbulent which can affect the readings. This really affects the MPS400 sensor way more than the Hi-Flow simply due to the fact that the MPS400 relies on accurate pressure values to determine flow whereas the Hi-Flow does not.

Small air bubbles will also affect the MPS400 but not so much the Hi-Flow sensor.

With the Hi-Flow, just ensure that you don't fit say a right angle fitting to its body if you can. Preferably you want straight fittings and a short length of straight tubing before and after the inlet/output fittings if you can. This will then achieve the best linearity with the sensor and its fixed calibration value.


----------



## ruffhi

Thx Costas ... some good stuff to think about.


----------



## ruffhi

I'm currently putting together a thought build around a CaseLabs S5. I found a sketchup version of the Aquaero ... how cool is that. Thank you who ever did that. I've also found a OOD and a card-reader that I will add at some point.

You can see the tubing coming out of the pedestal just in the right position to go into the aquaero block and then to head over to the motherboard block.

I'm planning on putting in a Aquero 6 Pro. My cooling set up will be 2 x 120.3 60mm wide radiators with fans in push and pull (12 cooling fans in total). Initial thoughts are to run them in either 4 banks of 3 (push, push, pull, pull) or 2 banks of 6 (push on both rads, pull on both rads) with the pull fans only kicking in when the going gets tough.

Can the Aquaero 6 do this? I am assuming it can. Any cheats that I can use (ie only getting the PWM from 1 fan per fan bank?). Any thing else that I need?

The current pump thought is a Swiftech MCP655-PWM 12v Water D5 Pump Module - PWM (Single Version) - will this unit give me the control that I think I can get from the Aquaero?

I've currently working through the guides on page 1 of this thread (btw - first guide link is broken) and ... so far ... it is only talking about the Aquaero 5 ... any major differences between the two other than cooling requirements?


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ruffhi*
> 
> I'm currently putting together a thought build around a CaseLabs S5. I found a sketchup version of the Aquaero ... how cool is that. Thank you who ever did that. I've also found a OOD and a card-reader that I will add at some point.
> 
> You can see the tubing coming out of the pedestal just in the right position to go into the aquaero block and then to head over to the motherboard block.
> 
> I'm planning on putting in a Aquero 6 Pro. My cooling set up will be 2 x 120.3 60mm wide radiators with fans in push and pull (12 cooling fans in total). Initial thoughts are to run them in either 4 banks of 3 (push, push, pull, pull) or 2 banks of 6 (push on both rads, pull on both rads) with the pull fans only kicking in when the going gets tough.
> 
> Can the Aquaero 6 do this? I am assuming it can. Any cheats that I can use (ie only getting the PWM from 1 fan per fan bank?). Any thing else that I need?
> 
> The current pump thought is a Swiftech MCP655-PWM 12v Water D5 Pump Module - PWM (Single Version) - will this unit give me the control that I think I can get from the Aquaero?
> 
> I've currently working through the guides on page 1 of this thread (btw - first guide link is broken) and ... so far ... it is only talking about the Aquaero 5 ... any major differences between the two other than cooling requirements?
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


The 6 and the 5 are quite similar from an operations perspective, so the guides for the 5 translate over pretty well.

The 6 series is electrically much more advanced than the 5 series.

All 4 fan ports can be configured for either voltage or PWM control, where the 5 series only had port 4 able to be selectable.

Perhaps more importantly, the 6 has much greater load capacity than the 5's.

They also run much cooler, and watercooling a 6 is pretty much a waste of time, effort, and fittings. . . . where the 5 was really helped by watercooling.

For lots of fans, PWM is always a better option . . . for most PWM fans you should have no issues with 10 per channel, as a minimum, before you start to loose the lower range of speed control. . . . Assuming of course, that you using a PSU powered PWM splitter.

For voltage controlled fans, you have a max of 30W per channel.

The Swiftech PWM D5 will need the Diva Mod, if you get the AquaComputer PWM D5 instead, it's already Aquaero compatible.

Hope that helps,

Darlene


----------



## ruffhi

Thx Darlene for the info. Two things for me to research / look into ...
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Assuming of course, that you using a PSU powered PWM splitter.


A what? I'll see if I can google that one.
Quote:


> The Swiftech PWM D5 will need the Diva Mod, if you get the AquaComputer PWM D5 instead, it's already Aquaero compatible.


Noted.


----------



## ruffhi

Here is what I found from google ...

PWN 1-To-4 Fan Splitter Cable (Sleeved)



You'll note that the cables come from the molex are only coming from one side. I am assuming they are only coming from the 12v and GND portions of the molex. They are there to provide power to the fans.



From what I can find, here is the standard 4-pin fan connector wiring ...



That green on grey writing isn't so flash ... I am assuming is says RPM.
____________________________________________________________________________________________

Now, I am planning on having 12 x 120mm PWM fans (Cryorig QF120 Balance) in the pedestal. I can either run them as 4 banks of 3 or 2 banks of 6.


4 Banks of 3 Fans (two per radiator)

2 banks in push mode (one per rad)

2 banks in pull mode (one per rad)

The 'push' banks (or pull ... not sure yet) are on by default with the other only coming on as required (ie water temp too high).


2 Banks of 6

one bank in pull spanning both radiators

one bank in push spanning both radiators

The 'push' bank (or pull ... not sure yet) are on by default with the other only coming on as required (ie water temp too high).


____________________________________________________________________________________________

So ... imagine the pedestal set up a-la 'cpachris' from his BBBB thread with the following fan connectors come from it ...


Spoiler: cpachris' fan power connection to pedestal







... one connector supplying the power to the fans in a bank and the other connector supplying the PWM signal to fans (I am going to call them a 'power connector' and an 'info connector'). One of the fans (per bank) would need to be set up with a RPM connector so that the Aquaero could get that information back.

So ... if I set it up as 2 banks of 6 then I would need 4 fan connectors coming from the pedestal. I run a molex power lead from the PSU, carve out the 12v and GND wires into two fan connectors and plug them into the appropriate 'power' fan connectors for the pedestal. I also need to run two fan (2-wire) cables from the Aquaero to the pedestal connections and plug them into the 'info' fan connectors.

Is that right? If so, I'll have to remember to label them appropriately ... or maybe use a red fan connector for power and a white (or black) connector for info.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ruffhi*
> 
> Here is what I found from google ...
> 
> PWN 1-To-4 Fan Splitter Cable (Sleeved)
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You'll note that the cables come from the molex are only coming from one side. I am assuming they are only coming from the 12v and GND portions of the molex. They are there to provide power to the fans.
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> From what I can find, here is the standard 4-pin fan connector wiring ...
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That green on grey writing isn't so flash ... I am assuming is says RPM.
> ____________________________________________________________________________________________
> 
> Now, I am planning on having 12 x 120mm PWM fans (Cryorig QF120 Balance) in the pedestal. I can either run them as 4 banks of 3 or 2 banks of 6.
> 
> 
> 4 Banks of 3 Fans (two per radiator)
> 
> 2 banks in push mode (one per rad)
> 
> 2 banks in pull mode (one per rad)
> 
> The 'push' banks (or pull ... not sure yet) are on by default with the other only coming on as required (ie water temp too high).
> 
> 
> 2 Banks of 6
> 
> one bank in pull spanning both radiators
> 
> one bank in push spanning both radiators
> 
> The 'push' bank (or pull ... not sure yet) are on by default with the other only coming on as required (ie water temp too high).
> 
> 
> ____________________________________________________________________________________________
> 
> So ... imagine the pedestal set up a-la 'cpachris' from his BBBB thread with the following fan connectors come from it ...
> 
> 
> Spoiler: cpachris' fan power connection to pedestal
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ... one connector supplying the power to the fans in a bank and the other connector supplying the PWM signal to fans (I am going to call them a 'power connector' and an 'info connector'). One of the fans (per bank) would need to be set up with a RPM connector so that the Aquaero could get that information back.
> 
> So ... if I set it up as 2 banks of 6 then I would need 4 fan connectors coming from the pedestal. I run a molex power lead from the PSU, carve out the 12v and GND wires into two fan connectors and plug them into the appropriate 'power' fan connectors for the pedestal. I also need to run two fan (2-wire) cables from the Aquaero to the pedestal connections and plug them into the 'info' fan connectors.
> 
> Is that right? If so, I'll have to remember to label them appropriately ... or maybe use a red fan connector for power and a white (or black) connector for info.


The 3rd wire in a fan connector is the rpm wire.

This is probably the most reliable and popular PWM splitter available . . it's available in either sata, as linked, or molex connection to the PSU.

http://www.performance-pcs.com/pwm-cables/swiftech-8-way-pwm-splitter-box-sata.html

I'd set up as groups of 6 on each rad and forget having a set of fans turn off if not needed . . . PWM has such good low speed capability, that you'll have quieter operation with all the fans running at a lower speed than you'd have with half of them off and the other half doing all the work.

D.


----------



## ruffhi

HA.. $20 is totally worth not having to worry about doing the cabling right and getting the various fan connectors, etc. Thanks heaps for the suggestion. +REP


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ruffhi*
> 
> HA.. $20 is totally worth not having to worry about doing the cabling right and getting the various fan connectors, etc. Thanks heaps for the suggestion. +REP


Not sure what case you have, but the wires from the splitters are pretty short, (about a foot long) so you'll probably need a 4 pin fan extension cable for each splitter to reach back to the Aquaero. . . . or make your own if you have the connectors and pins, since you really only need 2 wires, the rpm and PWM ones.

If you're not up to making your own, here's a couple examples of 4 pin fan extension cables:

http://www.performance-pcs.com/akasa-pwm-fan-extension-cable-30cm.html

http://www.performance-pcs.com/darkside-4-pin-70cm-27-m-f-pwm-fan-sleeved-cable-jet-black.html


----------



## ruffhi

At the moment, I am researching a CaseLabs S5 build to replace my Corsair 550D. I won't have the $ to start this project for ages ... but that just means more time to think, plan and wait for newer stuff to come out







.


----------



## rolldog

Ok, I finally received an email from Caselabs that my case is on its way, I took advantage of the 11 days of white sale and purchased a case in white.

Since placing my order, I've bought a few extra parts/components to fill my case with, and one of the things I bought is an Aquaero 6 XT with the blue LEDs. I've also bought the Swiftech PWM 8 way fan splitter, 3 of them, 2 x Poweradjust 3 USB Ultras, a farbwerk USB Bluetooth version, a passive heatsink for the Aquaero 6, an Acrylic glass display cover (just to see how it would look with the blue LEDs, and I already have some LED strips that I assume will work with the farbwerk controller unless I have to buy the specific LEDs that work with the farbwerk, but from what I can tell they have the same connectors. I have 2 x Koolance inline flow meters with built-in temperature probes, and I have the separate Koolance display units for the flow meters but I intend to plug the temperature sensors into the Aquaero along with a couple of temperature fittings.

I do have a question I'm hoping someone can answer for me. Does anyone know if they make a bezel for the poweradjust 3s and the farbwerk controller in white or is there a way I can mount the poweradjusts and the farbwerk inside of my case somewhere and keep a 5.25" drive Bay open? Lastly, besides not listing the fans, it there any other part/component I left out of my Aquaero setup? This is the first time I'll be using an Aquaero, and I want to make sure when my case arrives this week that I already have everything I need.

I'd appreciate any input if I forgot anything, and also some input on mounting the poweradjusts and farbwerk. If I need to use a bezel or if they can be mounted somewhere inside the case out of site. Thanks!


----------



## wa3pnt

I have one of the poweradjust mounting brackets located BEHIND the Aquaero 6XT pointing into the case.

Consider that as an option, but mounting in a Case Labs case will probably require a long 5.25 mount.

RodeoGeorge


----------



## Hooch31280

Hi guys,

first of all let me tell you I'm for the first time dealing with water cooling so, please, don't hit too hard









The first problem I'm dealing with is...I cannot control my fans through the Aquaero 6 Pro I bought.

Let me give you a bit of insight. Currently I have the following config:

1) In-take: 2 frontal 120 mm fans (A) + 3 120 mm bottom rear fans (B)
2) Exhaust: 1 back 120 mm fan (C) + 3 120 mm bottom front fans (PWM mounted on 360 XSPC rad, D) + 3 120 mm top fans (mounted on 360 XSPC rad, E).

As you can see just D are PWM fans.

Fans are connected (by means of ASAKA splitters) as it follows to the Aquaero:


A + B - Connector 1 on the Aquaero
C + E - Connector 2 on the Aquaero
D - Connector 3 on the Aquaero
All the fans are Air Series SP120 High Performance Edition.

Now....after 1.000 experiments....why can I control just the PWN fans?

I thought it was becasuse the Aquaero and the fans on the first and second connector weren't on the same power line...so I connected everything to just one line coming out from the Power Supply...but no happy ending...









I duly checked that in aquasuite I'm using the "power controlled" option for these fans while I'm using "PWM" for the set "D".

Can anyone help please?

Getting frustrated!


----------



## Mega Man

I can't help till I get home sorry


----------



## Mystriss

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hooch31280*
> 
> Hi guys,
> 
> first of all let me tell you I'm for the first time dealing with water cooling so, please, don't hit too hard
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The first problem I'm dealing with is...I cannot control my fans through the Aquaero 6 Pro I bought.
> 
> ~snip~


@Mega Man has a much better handle on this stuff than I, but I'll try! I'm controlling Corsair SP's with my AQ5LT. The user interface on the Aquasuite program is a bit less than user friendly as it kind of presumes you know what you're doing - I mean I program software and it took me a while to figure it out too. There used to be a nice write up on setting this stuff up but the site went MIA >.<

You should be able to have your fans plugged in the way you did the first time (each bank on different AQ fan headers). But, I think in order for anyone to help we need to know what you're trying to control the fans based on... like... I have a virtual hard-drive temp sensor (via ADIA64 software) controlling the fan in my second HTPC case. ( I had a second virtual temp sensor controlling the fan on my CPU, and a third controlling the push/pull fans on my GPU test loop with a fourth controlling a pump at one point, but I didn't set all that back up last time I pulled everything apart heh - I'm still working on my water cooling loops.)

Anyway, so for my setup, on my sensors page:



In the bottom tab you can see I've got two software sensors set up, one for my HD temp and one for my GPU. I've got "Software sensor 3" selected there so you can see the default, at the bottom there's a little check box to get the software fed temps. As I noted I've got AIDA64 so I've opened that up:



So I select my CPU and that creates a virtual temp sensor, now reflected in Aquasuite here:



*As a note you can also set up "blended" temps through the virtual temps there - like I could combine the temps for 3 of my hard drives (putting them in on the right side) into a single average temp and use that to control my bottom case fan in the next step ( I used to have that set up, but I switched stuff around in my bottom case so I only have one HD that gets warm. )

Next I go to the "Fans" tab in Aquasuite. There's four fans listed at the top, corresponding to the AQ fan plugs 1-4. I only have connector 4 plugged in on the AQ5 at the moment so that's the only one I have a reading on, but you should have fan 1, 2, and 3 plugged in on yours. Also, you can name the fans in the 2015 Aquasuite version which is /really/ helpful.

Anyway, lets hypothetically presume that I'm plugging the CPU fan into Fan 1 on the AQ5 here. So I click on Fan1, name it CPU, and set it up. I also use the "Advanced Settings" part here since it's my CPU fan and I'm using a software based temp reading that won't kick in until my system boots so I want/need to turn on the "Start Boost" feature - I've got an SSD so my boot time is almost instant so I can set it for "Duration" 3 seconds - now the AQ will turn the CPU fan on at 50% power for 3s when I boot up. I'm also using the "Power Controlled" method because my CPU fan is one of the non-pwm Corsair's:



Now I go over to the "Controllers" tab and add (button they hid in the upper right of the screen heh) I want a "curve" controller so I click that and set up my controller thusly (bottom one):



A few things here; on the left side I have to pick my "Data Source," in my case the virtual CPU temp I set up, on the right side I have to pick the "Outputs," in my case the Fan on Fan 1 (which I renamed CPU Fan), finally I have to set up my controller curve in the middle (the second controller in the pic there); I've opened up the "Automatic" bit and put in my min and max temps, then use the slider to adjust the curve, as it's my CPU fan I don't want much temp variance so I put in 30-40 degrees ( my CPU currently has a passive heat sink from SilverStone on it that keeps my FX8350 4.0 at 23c when idle so I don't need my fan to come on unless I'm gaming, which is why my curve is so short.) -- Above the theoretical CPU controller, you can see the controller I use for my hard drives in the bottom HTPC case, I've got a wider temp range on that and a more gradual curve. Then you just have to save your settings to the AQ unit (disc icon on the left by the AQ5LT header).

That's the gist of setting up the fan controllers using software / virtual temps, you can also set up AQ controllers using the 2pin temp sensors plugged directly into the AQ unit (both the water temp and external sensor types, which I plan to do for my bottom case, but I've not actually plugged the external types in yet.) Also the Aquasuite software can do /way/ more fine tuned fan control than the basic stuff I've exampled (and what I've currently got set up on my rig) - when I had my test loop on it I had all the bells and whistles hooked up.

Anyway, so what are you trying to control your fans based on?


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hooch31280*
> 
> Hi guys,
> 
> first of all let me tell you I'm for the first time dealing with water cooling so, please, don't hit too hard
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The first problem I'm dealing with is...I cannot control my fans through the Aquaero 6 Pro I bought.
> 
> Let me give you a bit of insight. Currently I have the following config:
> 
> 1) In-take: 2 frontal 120 mm fans (A) + 3 120 mm bottom rear fans (B)
> 2) Exhaust: 1 back 120 mm fan (C) + 3 120 mm bottom front fans (PWM mounted on 360 XSPC rad, D) + 3 120 mm top fans (mounted on 360 XSPC rad, E).
> 
> As you can see just D are PWM fans.
> 
> Fans are connected (by means of ASAKA splitters) as it follows to the Aquaero:
> 
> 
> A + B - Connector 1 on the Aquaero
> C + E - Connector 2 on the Aquaero
> D - Connector 3 on the Aquaero
> All the fans are Air Series SP120 High Performance Edition.
> 
> Now....after 1.000 experiments....why can I control just the PWN fans?
> 
> I thought it was becasuse the Aquaero and the fans on the first and second connector weren't on the same power line...so I connected everything to just one line coming out from the Power Supply...but no happy ending...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I duly checked that in aquasuite I'm using the "power controlled" option for these fans while I'm using "PWM" for the set "D".
> 
> Can anyone help please?
> 
> Getting frustrated!


Links to the exact splitters being used? They are non powered models one would assume but I haven't seen many Akasa models that aren't.

What exactly is happening when you say you can't control them? Just full speed?


----------



## Hooch31280

Well, first of all...THANKS! This is very explanatory *Mystriss* and I'm going to explore the possibilities of the Aquaero through a step by step approach.

I already created the three sets of fan and named them under Aquasuite



Problem is that fans are running full speed as *Jaku* was guessing and...yes, Jaku, the Asaka are self powered, meaning they have they own molex connector to the PSU. The 2 sets of 3 pins fans are connected on the very same line of the Aquaero.

Just to understand what is not working, let's assume at the moment I just want to switch "with a click" between 2 different profiles:

Quiet: Working, Web browsing and little stuff
Performance: Playing games, overclocking
In the first profile I want all the fans to be on 600 RPM (for example), in the second case I want the fans to run 1440 RPM.

Now, with the Voltage controlled fans, I was under the impression that I just had to regulate the slider of "Maximum Power" under the tab "Fans" and for the specific set of fans I was trying to control, to a lower value to get the result...meaning I could straight get my fans running at the desired speed without rebooting or ticking other options or acting on other sliders:



But, as you can see, the RPMs are still the same:



Where Am I being a lame?


----------



## Jakusonfire

Powered splitters are no good for voltage controlled fans. They supply 12V from the PSU straight to the fans so they naturally run at full speed. In power control mode the Aquaero reduces the voltage to the fans to lower their speed. It can't do that with powered splitters. As you can see in the screen shot the selected fan header is providing zero current but the fans are at 2200RPM

Switch to unpowered splitters and it will work fine.


----------



## ruffhi

I've been following this discussion with interest as I can see myself doing this in the future. Here is what I understand is the 'issue' and cause ... I am para-phrasing to test my knowledge of the situation ...

multiple fans (say 3) with power from PSU but RPM / 'control' back to Aquaero

desire is to control all 3 fans from Aquaero

I am unsure if the fans are 3-pin or 4-pin

if 3-pin, then control via voltage

if 4-pin then control via PWM


situation - unable to control fan RPMs

issue - cannot control voltage via Aquaero if pulling power from PSU (sounds reasonable once you say it)

solution - provide power from Aquaero ... or get 4-pin fans


----------



## Hooch31280

Oh Gosh...Thanks *Jaku*..Got these splitters for nothing then...And I was thinking I was preserving the Aquareo if draining power from the PSU...I cannot find unpowered 1 to 5 splitters though...they all look like old fashioneted "Black-Red-Yellow" cables.

Can I connect more of these ones in series?


----------



## gamerking

this is overkill for your need but its all that i know of that is for unpowered . not the pcb modymytoys one i mean
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004CLJ64Y?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=ox_sc_act_title_7&smid=A1S9W9A986D3KF
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hooch31280*
> 
> Oh Gosh...Thanks *Jaku*..Got these splitters for nothing then...And I was thinking I was preserving the Aquareo if draining power from the PSU...I cannot find unpowered 1 to 5 splitters though...they all look like old fashioneted "Black-Red-Yellow" cables.
> 
> Can I connect more of these ones in series?


----------



## Mystriss

Ah yea, that could be it if the molex takes over power distribution - I made my own 4pin fan splitters. @Hooch if you have the Corsair PWM 4pins the cable above won't work - the male hoods will prevent you from plugging them into it. I found these:

http://www.performance-pcs.com/silverstone-b-cpf02-b-one-to-three-pwm-fan-splitter-cable.html
http://www.performance-pcs.com/ek-cable-y-splitter-3-fan-pwm-10cm.html
http://www.performance-pcs.com/new-silverstone-pwm-fan-splitter-cable.html

But I couldn't find any splitters in the US for 4-5 fans without the molex power (*ticks off another good thing about making her own cables*) I'm not entirely sure if you can daisy chain them or not (like plug the splitter into the other splitter kind of deal)

AquaComputer site shows these, for up to 9 fans, but they are the hooded 3pin male connections too: http://shop.aquacomputer.de/product_info.php?products_id=3254

You could also put 3pin connectors on your fans and tape off the 4th pin wire so you can use the 3pin splitters - the fan connectors are fairly easy to change out, but you'll lose the PWM control on the fans. I skipped the 4th pwm control wire on my fans because most of the headers on the AQ5LT are 3pins rather than the 4pin anyway.

@ruffhi - I believe you almost have it, except the solution part







If you have a powered fan splitter, regardless of if it's 3pin or 4pin, then I suspect the power will come straight from the PSU regardless of what the AQ tells it to do - as the power comes from the PSU rather than through the AQ's regulator because of the wiring. The solution is apparently what I did, make your own splitter







OR buy 3pin non-pwm fans and use a non-powered splitter.



I've never actually looked at the wiring on a powered splitter before, but I believe they could either split in 12v and ground at what would be the MB header side and feed in a power assist /or/ they could run 12v and ground directly from the psu molex, and only pins 3 & 4 go to the MB header. If the wiring is the former of the two, then one /should/ be able to use the splitter on the AQ without the molex power plugged in.

My son has a powered 4 PWM fan splitter on his system (no AQ for him) so I'll see if I can get the AQ to control the fans via PWM on it without the molex plugged in, but I suspect it working or not would be reliant upon the particular splitter cable and how it's wired up. - Fair warning though, I'm in the middle of a fairly major project, but I'm hoping to finish up this week so I should have time to test then.


----------



## Mega Man

Your pic is wrong.

Molex is a company that makes connectors.

They didn't even make that connector. A company called "amp" it is from the "mate n lok" series


----------



## 0x00000000

Are all 4 fan channels on the aquaero 6 XT pwm controlled?


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *0x00000000*
> 
> Are all 4 fan channels on the aquaero 6 XT pwm controlled?


They can be . . . . . . It's all in how you set it up . . .

You can select for each one individually, as to whether you want it PWM or voltage controlled.

You can have them all PWM, all voltage control, or some combination of the two.

D.


----------



## Mads1

With the 6xt is it ok to connect 3 fans to one channel, do i need just a pwm three way splitter or will i need a power board like the modmytoys / swiftech with a molex/sata connection for power.


----------



## Mega Man

Yes you can connect 3 plus fans
As far as power source Depends on the fans my fans Pull 1.5a each so each fan needs a separate power source


----------



## Mads1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> Yes you can connect 3 plus fans
> As far as power source Depends on the fans my fans Pull 1.5a each so each fan needs a separate power source


there Ek vaders they pull 2.16w so should be ok with just a splitter. thanks.


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hooch31280*
> 
> Oh Gosh...Thanks *Jaku*..Got these splitters for nothing then...And I was thinking I was preserving the Aquareo if draining power from the PSU...I cannot find unpowered 1 to 5 splitters though...they all look like old fashioneted "Black-Red-Yellow" cables.
> 
> Can I connect more of these ones in series?


There are lots of links to splitter harnesses and PCB's that can be used with the aquaero in the owners thread but if you just search on PerfPCs for splitters there are ones made up specifically for rads of different sizes.
http://www.performance-pcs.com/new-modright-black-out-series-3-pin-to-6x-3-pin-y-cable-splitter-39.html
http://www.performance-pcs.com/new-modright-black-out-series-3-pin-to-3x-3-pin-y-cable-splitter-30.html
Or in general, but with some rare exceptions it is fine to daisy chain multiple fan splitters and extensions. It just means more connections to check on and that can cause probs. I prefer to have the wiring as neat as possible with PCB's on or next to each rad and a single wire running back to the Aquaero.


----------



## 0x00000000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> Yes you can connect 3 plus fans
> As far as power source Depends on the fans my fans Pull 1.5a each so each fan needs a separate power source


But I saw in a youtube video that up to 80 fans could be connected to a single aquaero 6 xt(https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DPQaMowIrmU) or does the power source need to come from somewhere else?


----------



## Mads1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> There are lots of links to splitter harnesses and PCB's that can be used with the aquaero in the owners thread but if you just search on PerfPCs for splitters there are ones made up specifically for rads of different sizes.
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/new-modright-black-out-series-3-pin-to-6x-3-pin-y-cable-splitter-39.html
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/new-modright-black-out-series-3-pin-to-3x-3-pin-y-cable-splitter-30.html
> Or in general, but with some rare exceptions it is fine to daisy chain multiple fan splitters and extensions. It just means more connections to check on and that can cause probs. I prefer to have the wiring as neat as possible with PCB's on or next to each rad and a single wire running back to the Aquaero.


So whats the best pcb, if im running a 360mm with 3x ek vader f4 pwm, im confused cause im getting mixed info, i was getting the swiftech 8 way splitter but was told the aq 6xt reports different fan speeds to how fans are connect to the swiftech.


----------



## Mystriss

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> Your pic is wrong.
> 
> Molex is a company that makes connectors.
> 
> They didn't even make that connector. A company called "amp" it is from the "mate n lok" series


Which pic? The pin-out? Here's a pin-out from Intel which has the same connections but for the colors (which in the case of Corsair's doesn't matter because the wires are all black) ~ http://www.intel.com/support/motherboards/desktop/sb/cs-012074.htm[/URL] and the latest (1.3) PWM spec's I could find (pin out on page 19) ~ http://formfactors.org/developer/specs/4_Wire_PWM_Spec.pdf[/URL]

In any event, I know for a fact that on all 8 of my Corsair SP120PWM's the ground is pin 1 and power is pin 2, and I get a tach reading from the fans on pin 3, which means 4 is control. IDK what to say other than that, that is the pin out diagram I used to make my splitters (I wanted the tach, but I heard that you can't get a proper reading if you tie all the tach signals together so I just have the first fan in my sets to send a tach signal to the AQ. - I can't use PWM control because I have the AQ5LT which only has one PWM connection, which goes to my pump.)

Anyway, you mean Aqua Computer didn't make the 9fan splitter cable? It says it's from Nanoxia in the listing, here's their listing of them (no 4pin splitters, I already looked) ~ http://nanoxia-world.com/en/products/cables/fan-cables/

Though I actually didn't figure Aqua Computer made /any/ of their cables as most companies hire out that stuff to third parties. Do they make the AQ branded ones? If so that's cool.


----------



## 0x00000000

Does the bitspower flow sensor work with the aquaero 6 xt or must the aquacomputer flow sensor be used?


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mads1*
> 
> So whats the best pcb, if im running a 360mm with 3x ek vader f4 pwm, im confused cause im getting mixed info, i was getting the swiftech 8 way splitter but was told the aq 6xt reports different fan speeds to how fans are connect to the swiftech.


Hooch and I are talking about unpowered splitters for his voltage controlled fans.

For PWM fans it depends on what you want. Powered or unpowered?, low profile?

For unpowered splitters for PWM or voltage controlled fans I like the modmytoys, available in several sizes

http://www.performance-pcs.com/modmytoys-4-pin-pwm-power-distribution-pcb-8-way-block.html
or the Phobya which can be used in multiple ways depending on if you use the cable that comes with it or a different one

http://www.scan.co.uk/products/phobya-pwm-8x-4pin-splitter-box-with-molex-pwm-adapter-y-cable

For powered splitters I like the Silverstone because its compact and low profile with flat headers.

http://silverstonetek.com/product.php?pid=526&area=en
or the powered modmytoys, but its much larger so needs a lot of room

http://www.performance-pcs.com/modmytoys-4-pin-pwm-power-low-profile-distribution-pcb-6-way-block.html

I have no idea what anybody is telling you about the swiftech model but it sounds like nonsense.

I can see splitters are going to need a thread of its own because at least once a week we go through all of this.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *0x00000000*
> 
> Does the bitspower flow sensor work with the aquaero 6 xt or must the aquacomputer flow sensor be used?


Yes and No

It can be connected and will give a reading but to calibrate it accurately requires the Aquaero to be set at a lower number of pulses per litre than is currently possible.


----------



## Mads1

Thanks for that, the modmytoys was the one i was looking at.


----------



## ruffhi

Can I get some clarity on the 'unpowered' and 'powered' comments? Is the following correct?

'powered' - power is provided to the fan from the input fan connection (which gets it from ... say ... the motherboard / fan header)
'unpowered' - power is provided to the fan from an independent cable connected to the PSU

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> ... or the powered modmytoys, but its much larger so needs a lot of room
> 
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/modmytoys-4-pin-pwm-power-low-profile-distribution-pcb-6-way-block.html


Interesting looking splitter ... I am assuming that the power is coming in via a SATA power cable (top of picture) and the PWM control is coming in from the fan header (bottom of picture) with the 6 left and right fan headers being used to drive the 6 fans. Which is the magic fan header that

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> I have no idea what anybody is telling you about the swiftech model but it sounds like nonsense.


I think the swiftech one is this one from PPCS and appears very similar to the pictured one above.


----------



## RnRollie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mystriss*
> 
> Ah yea, that could be it if the molex takes over power distribution - I made my own 4pin fan splitters. @Hooch if you have the Corsair PWM 4pins the cable above won't work - the male
> ---snip
> 
> *But I couldn't find any splitters in the US for 4-5 fans without the molex power* (*ticks off another good thing about making her own cables*) I'm not entirely sure if you can daisy chain them or not (like plug the splitter into the other splitter kind of deal)
> 
> AquaComputer site shows these, for up to 9 fans, but they are the hooded 3pin male connections too: http://shop.aquacomputer.de/product_info.php?products_id=3254
> 
> You could also put 3pin connectors on your fans and tape off the 4th pin wire so you can use the 3pin splitters - the fan connectors are fairly
> 
> ---snip--
> 
> warning though, I'm in the middle of a fairly major project, but I'm hoping to finish up this week so I should have time to test then.


Akasa FP5 (S)

http://www.akasa.com.tw/search.php?seed=AK-CBFA03-45

Not the best ones around, but they do the job


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *0x00000000*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> Yes you can connect 3 plus fans
> As far as power source Depends on the fans my fans Pull 1.5a each so each fan needs a separate power source
> 
> 
> 
> But I saw in a youtube video that up to 80 fans could be connected to a single aquaero 6 xt(https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DPQaMowIrmU) or does the power source need to come from somewhere else?
Click to expand...

They can depending on amp draw. Most fans are not 1.5a. But most fans are not as powerful as these either. You have 2.5a ( off the to of my head) you would need to check the back of your fan for the amp rating ( average fans are .1-.2a )


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ruffhi*
> 
> Can I get some clarity on the 'unpowered' and 'powered' comments? Is the following correct?
> 
> 'powered' - power is provided to the fan from the input fan connection (which gets it from ... say ... the motherboard / fan header)
> 'unpowered' - power is provided to the fan from an independent cable connected to the PSU
> 
> Interesting looking splitter ... I am assuming that the power is coming in via a SATA power cable (top of picture) and the PWM control is coming in from the fan header (bottom of picture) with the 6 left and right fan headers being used to drive the 6 fans. Which is the magic fan header that
> 
> I think the swiftech one is this one from PPCS and appears very similar to the pictured one above.


The other way round. Powered splitters have their own supplemental power input like a sata or molex plug while unpowered ones just have fan headers and take power through the single main fan input.

There is a lot of variation in how the splitters are wired up internally though.


----------



## ratzofftoya

Just making sure...If I have the aqualis res top on an D5 pump housing, and one of the inlets needs to be sealed (because I have the waterfall effect), I can use a regular stop fitting, right? Or is it recessed deeper like an EK pump housing, so that I have to use the included stop fitting?


----------



## Mystriss

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RnRollie*
> 
> Akasa FP5 (S)
> 
> http://www.akasa.com.tw/search.php?seed=AK-CBFA03-45
> 
> Not the best ones around, but they do the job


That one has molex power on it







Was looking for one without the molex power connection.


----------



## Hooch31280

Hey guys, thanks for all your replays.

Just to quick follow up on the matter, I found the splitters I was looking for. It's gonna take some time to get them delivered (cause I'm in Italy and they are not readily available) so I'll have to wait a bit.

As soon as I'll have it I'm gonna tell you about it.

Just another little question. If I want to add a flow meter, say the one from aquacomputer, do I have to buy a specific cable form acquacomputer as well or it's gonna work with any kind of bulk connector? Cause to me it looks like a common 3 pin - 3 pin connector?


----------



## Wam7

Hi guys, I have just become the pround recipient of an Aquaero Pro 6. It replaced my old Lampton Touch controller as I need it to control the pump and 2 Helix fans on my Swiftech H220-X. It also will be controlling the other 5 case fans. 4 of the case fans should be temperature controlled. Any advice on how best to set this up would be handy.


----------



## Costas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hooch31280*
> 
> Just another little question. If I want to add a flow meter, say the one from aquacomputer, do I have to buy a specific cable form acquacomputer as well or it's gonna work with any kind of bulk connector? Cause to me it looks like a common 3 pin - 3 pin connector?


For the Hi-flow sensor... it is not a normal fan header type 3 pin connector...It is actually a larger 3 pin connector which is different. Also the wiring is not straight through pin for pin between both ends.

You will require Aquacomputer cable 53027 to connect the hi-flow sensor to the Aquaero unit.


----------



## ratzofftoya

Could someone help me out regarding whether regular stop fittings are fine to use for the Aquacomputer pumps, given the super long threads in the inlet and outlet?

Also, couple other questions:

1.)If I plug some temp sensors into the motherboard, will aquasuite be able to pull that info in, or do they have to be plugged into the aquaero? What about the built-in CPU and GPU temp sensors?

2.)How have people been affixing the aquacomputer filter to their cases? It doesn't come with a manual and it'd be nice to see what some folks have done.

3.)What about the USB high-flow sensors? Can you just set them somewhere in the case, maybe on some velcro?


----------



## Mega Man

what do you mean by " regular" ? in the us we dont stop g1/4 for anything but pcs, if oyu mean you dont live in the us and are gonna go buy some at the hardware store then it would just depend.

if you mean regular name brand ( PC water cooling name brand ) then yes it should work

1 yes with either hwinfo ( recommended ) adia64 or hwmonitor

2 cut holes ( mod it ) or use one of the fan adapters, it has a80mm fan adapter on it iirc, may be 60 idr

3 generally wheat most people do


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ratzofftoya*
> 
> Could someone help me out regarding whether regular stop fittings are fine to use for the Aquacomputer pumps, given the super long threads in the inlet and outlet?
> 
> Also, couple other questions:
> 
> 1.)If I plug some temp sensors into the motherboard, will aquasuite be able to pull that info in, or do they have to be plugged into the aquaero? What about the built-in CPU and GPU temp sensors?
> 
> 2.)How have people been affixing the aquacomputer filter to their cases? It doesn't come with a manual and it'd be nice to see what some folks have done.
> 
> 3.)What about the USB high-flow sensors? Can you just set them somewhere in the case, maybe on some velcro?


1. Possibly ... If open hardware monitor or similar software can read the temps it should be importable into aquasuite. I don't see the point though. Its just adding a middleman between sensor and Aquaero. Far better to have a direct link so the Aquaero is fully independant of the PC running correctly.

2. Filters are mostly a waste of effort.

3. There are many ways to install and affix a flow meter. Velcro would be fine. I don't mount them at all ... they just attach to the loop like another fitting.


----------



## Mega Man

he is talking about a asus board, it is possible i have done it a bit
the "-88" is one that does not have one on it !


----------



## ratzofftoya

Thanks to you both!

I'm sure the filter doesn't have much utility but I just think it looks sweet.


----------



## DMatthewStewart

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ratzofftoya*
> 
> Could someone help me out regarding whether regular stop fittings are fine to use for the Aquacomputer pumps, given the super long threads in the inlet and outlet?
> 
> Also, couple other questions:
> 
> 1.)If I plug some temp sensors into the motherboard, will aquasuite be able to pull that info in, or do they have to be plugged into the aquaero? What about the built-in CPU and GPU temp sensors?
> 
> 2.)How have people been affixing the aquacomputer filter to their cases? It doesn't come with a manual and it'd be nice to see what some folks have done.
> 
> 3.)What about the USB high-flow sensors? Can you just set them somewhere in the case, maybe on some velcro?


First question about stop fittings I would defer to Shoggy or another AC pro.

Now for your numbered questions

1) Just like JacksonFire said
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> Its just adding a middleman between sensor and Aquaero. Better to have a direct link so the Aquaero is fully independant of the PC running correctly.


Plus, I like the fastest possible startup time. I only open HWiNFO when I need to double check a temp to a physical temp sensor or I need to check a voltage. Ive had great luck with my physical temp sensors plugged into my Aquaero. All my temp curves/fan profiles are set to them. And ive mixed and matched. I have Bitspower temp sensors with inline Aquacomputer ones. Temp sensors are one of the simplest pieces plugged into your system. Another reason not to run it through a second piece of hardware.

2) The Aquacomputer filter used to have a bay mounting kit so the circular window mounted right to the front of your bay drive. I havent seen them around in a while. Some people dont use them. I just started to use a filter and Im not sure if I need it. So far it hasnt caught anything. I use the Koolance one and I have the finer mesh installed. Not sure how I feel about this. I ran my loop for years with no filter.

3) You can put those where ever you like. Mounting with velcro is a good option. Personally I only used flow sensors in complicated loops. One of the last loops had two high vertical tubes and I was concerned that the flow was being hampered. So I set one up at where tubing was totally parallel to the floor and another on the vertical climb. But once I reconfigured that loop I never used one again. Im not sure if I need it. I think if I had reducers that changed tube size or I tried to split the flow I would consider using one again.


----------



## ratzofftoya

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DMatthewStewart*
> 
> First question about stop fittings I would defer to Shoggy or another AC pro.
> 
> Now for your numbered questions
> 
> 1) Just like JacksonFire said
> Plus, I like the fastest possible startup time. I only open HWiNFO when I need to double check a temp to a physical temp sensor or I need to check a voltage. Ive had great luck with my physical temp sensors plugged into my Aquaero. All my temp curves/fan profiles are set to them. And ive mixed and matched. I have Bitspower temp sensors with inline Aquacomputer ones. Temp sensors are one of the simplest pieces plugged into your system. Another reason not to run it through a second piece of hardware.


Got it. I think I mainly want to do this for ease of cable routing (at least some of the probes will be in the bottom of the case, very far away from the Aquaero). But also, do you simply not use the onboard sensors for your CPU and GPUs? How can you get the CPU temperature with a probe?
Quote:


> 2) The Aquacomputer filter used to have a bay mounting kit so the circular window mounted right to the front of your bay drive. I havent seen them around in a while. Some people dont use them. I just started to use a filter and Im not sure if I need it. So far it hasnt caught anything. I use the Koolance one and I have the finer mesh installed. Not sure how I feel about this. I ran my loop for years with no filter.


Yeah, I think I'll put it in the lower bay. As I said--mainly for the looks.
Quote:


> 3) You can put those where ever you like. Mounting with velcro is a good option. Personally I only used flow sensors in complicated loops. One of the last loops had two high vertical tubes and I was concerned that the flow was being hampered. So I set one up at where tubing was totally parallel to the floor and another on the vertical climb. But once I reconfigured that loop I never used one again. Im not sure if I need it. I think if I had reducers that changed tube size or I tried to split the flow I would consider using one again.


I mostly want to use this thing to have it trigger the alarms in the Aquaero if the flow stops.


----------



## Mega Man

to the baymount i think he is talking about the aquatube, i have never seen a bay mount for the filter.

as to the sensors, of course plugging them in is better, but he asked if he could use the mobo, - i assumed there was a good reason. seems like there is

rather then cpu/gpu temp you can use whats called a water to air delta, ( the difference between the water and air )

basically you take the temp of incoming air vs water temp. idea being if water is heating up you can speed up your fans/pumps and you dont get the temp "spike" that cause your fans to rev quickly


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ratzofftoya*
> 
> Got it. I think I mainly want to do this for ease of cable routing (at least some of the probes will be in the bottom of the case, very far away from the Aquaero). But also, do you simply not use the onboard sensors for your CPU and GPUs? How can you get the CPU temperature with a probe?
> Yeah, I think I'll put it in the lower bay. As I said--mainly for the looks.
> I mostly want to use this thing to have it trigger the alarms in the Aquaero if the flow stops.


You would be much better off just extending the sensors.
One of the primary benefits of the Aquaero, and why it costs so much money, is the fact it's an independent computerised cooling system. If there is a problem with the main system the Aquaero is unaffected and still does its job. If the Aquaero is depending on software from the main system to run properly you remove much of that independence so if the main system had a problem the cooling system can too. Trying to base emergency alarms and functions on that is fraught with problems.

I have the CPU and GPU temps showing in the aquasuite homepage but they are just for reference, they are not part of any control. Coolant and inlet air temps is all I use for basing controls on because they are the real important ones. All other temps are determined by those.


----------



## wa3pnt

I definitely agree with Jakuponfire. Utilizing a software temperature sensor value obtained via a third source (aida64, HWM, motherboard, etc.) injects the possibility of erroneous reading, or reading that lag reality.

Personally, I have placed a hardware temperature probe against the CPU die, and use that to control fan speeds. When I compare the "average" temperature of that probe, it is normally within 1/2 degree celsius of the temperature reported by aida64, but does not contain the temperature spikes that aida64 has.

RodeoGeorge


----------



## ratzofftoya

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> You would be much better off just extending the sensors.
> One of the primary benefits of the Aquaero, and why it costs so much money, is the fact it's an independent computerised cooling system. If there is a problem with the main system the Aquaero is unaffected and still does its job. If the Aquaero is depending on software from the main system to run properly you remove much of that independence so if the main system had a problem the cooling system can too. Trying to base emergency alarms and functions on that is fraught with problems.
> 
> I have the CPU and GPU temps showing in the aquasuite homepage but they are just for reference, they are not part of any control. Coolant and inlet air temps is all I use because they are the real important ones. All other temps are determined by those.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wa3pnt*
> 
> I definitely agree with Jakuponfire. Utilizing a software temperature sensor value obtained via a third source (aida64, HWM, motherboard, etc.) injects the possibility of erroneous reading, or reading that lag reality.
> 
> Personally, I have placed a hardware temperature probe against the CPU die, and use that to control fan speeds. When I compare the "average" temperature of that probe, it is normally within 1/2 degree celsius of the temperature reported by aida64, but does not contain the temperature spikes that aida64 has.
> 
> RodeoGeorge


Definitely grateful for both of your help.

How do you measure the inlet air temp? And where do you recommend placing the temp sensor fittings?

Also, can you clarify where exactly you put the temp sensor probe? I'm not clear on what the die of the CPU is.


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ratzofftoya*
> 
> Definitely grateful for both of your help.
> 
> How do you measure the inlet air temp? And where do you recommend placing the temp sensor fittings?
> 
> Also, can you clarify where exactly you put the temp sensor probe? I'm not clear on what the die of the CPU is.


For coolant sensors it does not matter greatly where they are located because normally there will be little variation as compared to the overall difference between coolant and ambient.

Inlet air / ambient can be more tricky. I like to have a pair of sensors in front of the fans that feed the front rad. So you get a measure of the actual air that is feeding the rad.
That is not as straight forward as it may seem though. If the sensor is to close to the rad or there are gaps around the rad that allows internal case air to be drawn instead of purely outside ambient air then it's easy to have readings that are higher than they should be. That can make the difference between coolant and ambient seem lower than it is. Its easy to see at least when it's happening as if you graph coolant temp vs ambient they will climb together instead of the gap increasing.
By using a pair of physical sensors you can create a virtual sensor that gives you either the average or lowest temp so that the temp is more stable and an accurate representation of what the rad is getting.

It's important to have distance so radiant heat is not playing a role plus I like to have a fully sealed front panel so that only ambient air can come in contact with the sensor.

That is sort of the harder way to do it vs just having a sensor physically sticking out of the case but it looks nice and neat being covered or concealed.


----------



## DMatthewStewart

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ratzofftoya*
> 
> Got it. I think I mainly want to do this for ease of cable routing (at least some of the probes will be in the bottom of the case, very far away from the Aquaero). But also, do you simply not use the onboard sensors for your CPU and GPUs? How can you get the CPU temperature with a probe?
> Yeah, I think I'll put it in the lower bay. As I said--mainly for the looks.
> I mostly want to use this thing to have it trigger the alarms in the Aquaero if the flow stops.


Yes sir, cable routing would be much easier going the way of the mobo. However, I love little clips with adhesive backs for small wire routing through the case. I'll find the ones Im talking about online and send you the link. Theyre perfect

Ahh, the cpu and gpu temp with no probe and no HWiNFO...I have an inline temp sensor right after my gpu. It tells me coolant temp as its leaving the cards. My next inline sensor is leaving the cpu. Same idea. I logged the temp data and runs under gpu full load and then Prime 95 loads. Took a look at what those temps were and set my controllers to curves accordingly. So I know when my gpu hitts 50C under load my coolant is a certain temp. On its way up to that temp the fans are steadily increasing in speed









In regards to having alarms there are multiple ways to do this. I dont set alarms, but it looks like there are a ton of options when configuring in the Aquaero. I could be wrong but cant an alarms be set if the pump reaches 0rpm? That would alleviate needing a flow sensor. (I think) When Im doing overnight runs of anything (which I hardly do) I just use a .bat file to shut my computer down if a certain temp is reached through HWiNFO. If you want to use that .bat file there is a catch...you have to give dmfree88 rep because the .bat file is in this post under "Safety First"


----------



## Mega Man

Yes you can it isn't failsafe. But yes you can

I hate doubles idea tape


----------



## ratzofftoya

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DMatthewStewart*
> 
> Ahh, the cpu and gpu temp with no probe and no HWiNFO...I have an inline temp sensor right after my gpu. It tells me coolant temp as its leaving the cards. My next inline sensor is leaving the cpu. Same idea. I logged the temp data and runs under gpu full load and then Prime 95 loads. Took a look at what those temps were and set my controllers to curves accordingly. So I know when my gpu hitts 50C under load my coolant is a certain temp. On its way up to that temp the fans are steadily increasing in speed


Great, thanks! I'd love to learn more about your methodology for what you used to do that--I've never really done any serious benchmarking/stress testing. Thanks again!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> I hate doubles idea tape


Why not double-sided tape? What do you prefer for cable management?


----------



## Mega Man

zip ties or trained wire

i have always hated double sided tape, it needs to disappear from the earth !


----------



## Mystriss

Double stick tape/adhesive pads have their downsides; tends to lose it's adhesion and if you don't place it "just right" the first time, it'll pull the paint off (for those who paint the interior of their cases.) I had the adhesive backed cable clips from ModSmart and they lasted for about 2 days of actual use with my rig before they fell off into a fan - I was all the disappoint :/ But then again, using Scotch uhm... I don't remember the number off the top of my head (I'll try to dig out the package if I can remember where it might be heh) to do the heavy lifting on holding an acrylic window seems to hold fine (though admittedly I had "decorative" bolts through the acrylic and case top so the double stick tape was mostly for sealing purposes.)


----------



## ruffhi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Costas*
> 
> When we place angle fittings etc near a sensor it introduces a large pressure change (as compared to a straight fitting). The pressure value changes as the flow changes thereby causing all sorts of non linearity issues which plays havoc with calibration values.
> 
> Another thing that affects these sensors is how laminar the fluid flow is. Having angle fittings and/or bends close to the sensor results in the fluid flow being turbulent which can affect the readings. This really affects the MPS400 sensor way more than the Hi-Flow simply due to the fact that the MPS400 relies on accurate pressure values to determine flow whereas the Hi-Flow does not.
> 
> Small air bubbles will also affect the MPS400 but not so much the Hi-Flow sensor.
> 
> With the Hi-Flow, just ensure that you don't fit say a right angle fitting to its body if you can. Preferably you want straight fittings and a short length of straight tubing before and after the inlet/output fittings if you can. This will then achieve the best linearity with the sensor and its fixed calibration value.


I'm back but this time I have a sketchup picture of where I am planning on putting my Hi-Flow sensor ... in the middle of the highlighted bit of tubing ...










The tubing set-up is a pump (not shown - in main case behind mid-chassis divide) that drives the water down and into the left radiator ... across into the right radiator (drain port location between the rads) and then back up into the main case. The right sphere will have a temperature sensor in it. The left sphere is an anchor point with the liquid leaving the fitting via the top exit and heading to the CPU & GPU blocks before returning to the pump (that tubing is not shown in this picture).

In light of the _Preferably you want straight fittings and a short length of straight tubing before and after the inlet/output fittings if you can_ statement, I am wondering if 45º fittings that I am thinking of putting on both sides of the flow sensor are 'straight enough'? I could modify the above with a direct tube / sensor / tube run between the spheres but I would prefer to 'hide' this run a little bit more than that. Maybe a compromise of using 2 30º fittings to 'flatten' the bend?


----------



## wa3pnt

I'm not being sarcastic, but "straight" means "straight". Not 45*, not 30*. Straight.

While the flow sensor will work, it's accuracy and reading stability will be impacted by any turbulence created by curves.

RodeoGeorge


----------



## ruffhi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wa3pnt*
> 
> I'm not being sarcastic, but "straight" means "straight". Not 45*, not 30*. Straight.
> 
> While the flow sensor will work, it's accuracy and reading stability will be impacted by any turbulence created by curves.
> 
> RodeoGeorge


HA! Fair enough. I guess I was stressing the '_preferably_' and '_if you can_' portions of the statement.

I'll tinker with my SketchUp and see if I can get it '_straighter_' and acceptable to my 'wishes',


----------



## rolldog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wa3pnt*
> 
> I have one of the poweradjust mounting brackets located BEHIND the Aquaero 6XT pointing into the case.
> 
> Consider that as an option, but mounting in a Case Labs case will probably require a long 5.25 mount.
> 
> RodeoGeorge


So, the Poweradjust 3 Ultras and the Farbwerks controller can be mounted onto the back of the Aquaero or did you just mount them onto the drive Bay behind the Aquaero? I haven't got mine in yet, but just looking at the pictures, it looks like the need some kind of Mount to keep the PCB off the case. If they can be mounted to the case itself, then it seems like it might be easier to mount them on the PSU side of my Caselabs TH10A, out of sight, and then run whatever cable connects them to the Aquaero from one side to the other. I've never used an Aquaero before, but with some help from IT Diva, which I'm very grateful for, she told me what extra parts to get to operate the parts I have. On the Aquaero website
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mystriss*
> 
> Double stick tape/adhesive pads have their downsides; tends to lose it's adhesion and if you don't place it "just right" the first time, it'll pull the paint off (for those who paint the interior of their cases.) I had the adhesive backed cable clips from ModSmart and they lasted for about 2 days of actual use with my rig before they fell off into a fan - I was all the disappoint :/ But then again, using Scotch uhm... I don't remember the number off the top of my head (I'll try to dig out the package if I can remember where it might be heh) to do the heavy lifting on holding an acrylic window seems to hold fine (though admittedly I had "decorative" bolts through the acrylic and case top so the double stick tape was mostly for sealing purposes.)


The only thing decent I've used to mount something down inside of my case, like the fan extender for the Asus MB before buying an Aquaero, was the weird plastic things made by 3M to hang pictures on the wall, but when you want to remove it, you pull on a small plastic tab, and it comes off easily, doesn't remove any paint, and leaves no adhesive. I have no idea what these tings are or how they make them, but 3M and their extensive R&D department with adhesives have really invested some cool things. People take the Post-It for granted. How many things can you stick somewhere and continue to stick it in other places without losing its adhesive properties or leaving adhesive residue?


----------



## wa3pnt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rolldog*
> 
> So, the Poweradjust 3 Ultras and the Farbwerks controller can be mounted onto the back of the Aquaero or did you just mount them onto the drive Bay behind the Aquaero? I haven't got mine in yet, but just looking at the pictures, it looks like the need some kind of Mount to keep the PCB off the case. If they can be mounted to the case itself, then it seems like it might be easier to mount them on the PSU side of my Caselabs TH10A, out of sight, and then run whatever cable connects them to the Aquaero from one side to the other. I've never used an Aquaero before, but with some help from IT Diva, which I'm very grateful for, she told me what extra parts to get to operate the parts I have. On the Aquaero website


I used the Aquacomputer PA Mount (53087) and mounted it to the rear of the 5.25 cage behind the Aquaero facing inward.

I did this in a 900D and a 800D case where there is a full length 5.25 cage.

To do that in a CL case, you might have to use the MAC-212 or MAC-125 mounts.

RodeoGeorge


----------



## DMatthewStewart

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ratzofftoya*
> 
> Great, thanks! I'd love to learn more about your methodology for what you used to do that--I've never really done any serious benchmarking/stress testing. Thanks again!
> Why not double-sided tape? What do you prefer for cable management?


No problem. There is a great logging utility built into the Aquaero software. Its a little weird setting it up at first but it allows you to track and log the info from any sensor. So I start that up, go back and look at the chart I created and adjust fan curves accordingly

When I start I have the temp sensors that I need to monitor ready to go, like below (quick, dirty, and simple/no clutter)



To get to this point you just to go to Data Log and add the devices/sensors

Next, go up to the drop down menu that says "data log" (under "overview")

Go to the "Log Settings" and add the devices (along the way I clear/delete any data in the device memory. Youll see buttons for that) and set your preferences

Next, open up Analyze Data and begin to play around with your chart. Make sure to "Add Data to Chart" with each input you want in the chart. You can see it in the bottom of the pic.

Then, with pretty low fan settings I run some intensive programs and go back and look at what temps my coolant hit. I also keep RivaTuner open as well so I know iif my hottest GPU hits 50C I note the time and go back and look at my time on the chart and see what my coolant temp was. If it was 33C then I know that my fans should be at their maximum efficient speed (may not be 100% depending on fans).

My bottom radiator fans dont even turn on until I hit a certain temp. Something I realized with the chart data was that light gaming doesnt require it. Playing something like Crysis 1 or Battleblock Theater maintains low enough temps that the bottom rad fans can stay off at certain temps. Great for noise reduction and power consumption. My Aquaero 5 LT is very close to being my favorite component (and I havent even done half the things its capable of doing). Im still learning and playing around. Funny thing, I built two computers for friends and told them they needed to have the Aquaero and I hadnt even owned one myself. I just got mine 6-7 months ago









Let me know if you have any other questions. If I cant answer them at least we can try to figure it out.


----------



## apw63

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ruffhi*
> 
> HA! Fair enough. I guess I was stressing the '_preferably_' and '_if you can_' portions of the statement.
> 
> I'll tinker with my SketchUp and see if I can get it '_straighter_' and acceptable to my 'wishes',


I modified your graphic to show where I put my mps 400 flow sensor. I have link in my sig to my build log. There are pics of how I installed my flow sensor and drain. My pedestal setup is very similar to what you are trying to do. Take a look may help you out in your plumbing.


----------



## rolldog

Awesome, thanks for the info. I really didn't want to buy a bezel to take up a drive bay just to mount these things I'll never even touch. I haven't even started adding any parts to my case yet. I'm still waiting on some parts of my case that didn't ship with it. I'm sure I'll have another question or two once I get around to hooking stuff up.


----------



## ruffhi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *apw63*
> 
> I modified your graphic to show where I put my mps 400 flow sensor. I have link in my sig to my build log. There are pics of how I installed my flow sensor and drain. My pedestal setup is very similar to what you are trying to do. Take a look may help you out in your plumbing.


Thx apw63. I am going to C&P this post to my 'thought log' thread. I was looking for something to do tonight ... build log voyeurism it is!


----------



## jeanspaulo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> As soon as the time and date is correct you should disconnect the USB cable so you can check if the random values will be caused that way or if it is something that the aquaero does itself. No solution so far but one step forward to tell where the problem might have its root.


Hello Shoggy, thank you so much for the help. Sorry about the delay to respond, I was making some tests. I did what you ask and the clock remains ok. So I get the Aquasuite re-installed and reconfigured again. After that I Reset the aquaero and now its everything OK working fine, the clock and date stops changing by itself.

But now I have another thing I'm trying to use but till now I didn't realize how to make it work. To use the Aquaero Remote to work as a PC Keyborad and Media Control. For example when I'm using for example PowerDVD I set the controle to Media option but it doesn't control the pc. And as a keyborad also. Are there any setup to this work correctly?


----------



## Shoggy

Are you even sure that the remote is working at all?

Can you control the aquaero with it?

There are no further options available nor should any be required. We use a standard keyboard layout by Windows for the media keys so it should always work.


----------



## ratzofftoya

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DMatthewStewart*
> 
> No problem. There is a great logging utility built into the Aquaero software. Its a little weird setting it up at first but it allows you to track and log the info from any sensor. So I start that up, go back and look at the chart I created and adjust fan curves accordingly
> 
> When I start I have the temp sensors that I need to monitor ready to go, like below (quick, dirty, and simple/no clutter)
> 
> 
> 
> To get to this point you just to go to Data Log and add the devices/sensors
> 
> Next, go up to the drop down menu that says "data log" (under "overview")
> 
> Go to the "Log Settings" and add the devices (along the way I clear/delete any data in the device memory. Youll see buttons for that) and set your preferences
> 
> Next, open up Analyze Data and begin to play around with your chart. Make sure to "Add Data to Chart" with each input you want in the chart. You can see it in the bottom of the pic.
> 
> Then, with pretty low fan settings I run some intensive programs and go back and look at what temps my coolant hit. I also keep RivaTuner open as well so I know iif my hottest GPU hits 50C I note the time and go back and look at my time on the chart and see what my coolant temp was. If it was 33C then I know that my fans should be at their maximum efficient speed (may not be 100% depending on fans).
> 
> My bottom radiator fans dont even turn on until I hit a certain temp. Something I realized with the chart data was that light gaming doesnt require it. Playing something like Crysis 1 or Battleblock Theater maintains low enough temps that the bottom rad fans can stay off at certain temps. Great for noise reduction and power consumption. My Aquaero 5 LT is very close to being my favorite component (and I havent even done half the things its capable of doing). Im still learning and playing around. Funny thing, I built two computers for friends and told them they needed to have the Aquaero and I hadnt even owned one myself. I just got mine 6-7 months ago
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Let me know if you have any other questions. If I cant answer them at least we can try to figure it out.


Awesome! I look forward to implementing this. I have one temp sensor in coming out of the SLI bridge (for the GPU loop) and one right after the RAM block (for the mobo loop). I might put another one as a stop fitting somewhere. And then I'll have one sticking out of the case somewhere to take the ambient temp. Does that sound right?


----------



## DMatthewStewart

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ratzofftoya*
> 
> Awesome! I look forward to implementing this. I have one temp sensor in coming out of the SLI bridge (for the GPU loop) and one right after the RAM block (for the mobo loop). I might put another one as a stop fitting somewhere. And then I'll have one sticking out of the case somewhere to take the ambient temp. Does that sound right?


Thats almost exactly how I have my temp sensors set up. I just dont have an ambient temp sensor because my case (as much as I hate doing this) has stayed open for way too long. I dont think I go a week without changing something around. Two weeks ago I got the RTC for my Aquaero 5 LT. When I installed that I added the clips for the temp sensor wires (that reminds me, the clips --> http://www.performance-pcs.com/mdy-cord-clips-13mm-black.html)

I put those on the temp sensor wire first and thenfind where in the case they go, peel back, stick, done!


----------



## ratzofftoya

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DMatthewStewart*
> 
> Thats almost exactly how I have my temp sensors set up. I just dont have an ambient temp sensor because my case (as much as I hate doing this) has stayed open for way too long. I dont think I go a week without changing something around. Two weeks ago I got the RTC for my Aquaero 5 LT. When I installed that I added the clips for the temp sensor wires (that reminds me, the clips --> http://www.performance-pcs.com/mdy-cord-clips-13mm-black.html)
> 
> I put those on the temp sensor wire first and thenfind where in the case they go, peel back, stick, done!


Why does opening the case so much negate the need for an ambient temp sensor?


----------



## DMatthewStewart

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ratzofftoya*
> 
> Why does opening the case so much negate the need for an ambient temp sensor?


I have both sides off and the computer is in a very cool basement. Its basically an open-air rig. Only time any warm air is even around it is when I have both cards running and cpu decides to roll out of bed and do something.


----------



## ratzofftoya

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DMatthewStewart*
> 
> I have both sides off and the computer is in a very cool basement. Its basically an open-air rig. Only time any warm air is even around it is when I have both cards running and cpu decides to roll out of bed and do something.


Ah, I was thinking of using the air temp probe just to calculate the deltas, as someone else had suggested. Do you recommend that?

By the way, if I keep the case closed, do you think it's necessary to have a case fan pointing in on the motherboard, even though everything that can be watercooled is?


----------



## DMatthewStewart

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ratzofftoya*
> 
> Ah, I was thinking of using the air temp probe just to calculate the deltas, as someone else had suggested. Do you recommend that?
> 
> By the way, if I keep the case closed, do you think it's necessary to have a case fan pointing in on the motherboard, even though everything that can be watercooled is?


Monitoring case temp is always a good idea. Even with watercooling everything you are still pumping warm air from the rads into the case

RE the fan pointing in at the motherboard: That depends on how many components you have watercooled. If you have the mobo+cpu+ram+a block on the south bridge, then you probably dont need a fan pointing right at the mobo. But the best way to know is to stick one of those temp probes on the components. Check it at idle vs load. Then see what others get. Sometimes certain things that seem high are just normal operating temp.

Ive been able to keep good case temps with a single 120mm fan in the front and a single 120mm fan at the rear for exhaust. Here are the components I have everything water cooled except RAM and South Bridge. But my rad space is total overkill too. I have 840mm of rad space. So the air that is coming through my rads isnt as warm as someone who is running half the rad space. It just comes down to playing around, observing, making a mental note, and adjusting accordingly. Two best fans Ive owned both as case fans and radiator fans are the Gentle Typhoons (of course) and the eLoop NB-12 pwm. I used the pwm eloops originally but bailed on pwm when I got my Aquaero. Now all my fans are GT's.


----------



## Mega Man

Only 840? I am pushing 2400 in my th10. Come on you need more rad space !


----------



## Dagamus NM

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> Only 840? I am pushing 2400 in my th10. Come on you need more rad space !


That is babonkadonkolous. I have 1260mm in each of my sm8s and that is more than enough for a 5960X and four 780Ti/980Ti cards. I will get around to adding my memory blocks but we both know those do nothing. I could add another 420mm in the front of my cases and still only have 4/5's what you have.

You still have room for more too. Where could you go to if you wanted? Keeping everything inside that is.


----------



## rolldog

I just got my TH10A a week or so ago. I just got the case assembled, but I'm still doing some painting and sleeving so all I've done is hooked up 2 x 480 rads up top (I'm still waiting for my 120mm top to cover the rads), and I have a 360 rad on the bottom side with the PSU. If I wanted to, the 360 can be swapped for a 480, I could add 2 more 360mm rads (each one mounted to the front, 1 on the right & 1 on the left), and I could add another 480mm rad to the bottom of the MB side. The way I'm setting this up right now will have 2 x 480s and a 360, and all my rads will be separated from my MB.I could actually use 480s instead of 360s,but it would leave me with no drive bays.


----------



## iBruce

So much WHITE!

Blinding if you don't previously prepare.

Grabbing my low light green afusion goggles.









...those EK rads are drenched in fluid white paint.

I feel affixed by thick paint and stuck on a plastered white wall and someone is feeding thick white globs of paint down my throat.

Other than that, I love it.


----------



## rolldog

Yes, but once everything is installed inside my case and the blue coolant is traveling through my acrylic tubing with lighting inside of the tubing, the blue will be much more noticeable.


----------



## zerophase

Is it fine to plug the Farbwerk in by aquabus and usb at the same time?


----------



## InfoSeeker

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zerophase*
> 
> Is it fine to plug the Farbwerk in by aquabus and usb at the same time?


Yes, you can have both communications ports connected simultaneously.

EDIT: from section 5.5 of the manual (highlights mine):
Quote:


> 5.5. aquabus 1/2 (not available in Bluetooth version)
> Connector for communication with other Aqua Computer devices. Use a compatible
> aquabus cable (not included in delivery, article no.
> 53122/53161/53162/93111) to connect the farbwerk controller board to a suitable
> connector of a compatible device, for example an aquaero. _USB and
> aquabus interface *can* be used at the same time._


----------



## rolldog

Regarding the farbwerk, one version is Bluetooth controllable, which doesn't have the aquabus interface, while the other version has the aquabus interface. What functionality are you giving up with the Bluetooth version without the aquabus interface?


----------



## InfoSeeker

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rolldog*
> 
> Regarding the farbwerk, one version is Bluetooth controllable, which doesn't have the aquabus interface, while the other version has the aquabus interface. What functionality are you giving up with the Bluetooth version without the aquabus interface?


Actually, the new farbwerk USB, Bluetooth and aquabus version has it all, you give up nothing... just costs 10 EUR more for the Bluetooth functionality.


----------



## tju76

Hey guys just going over some last minute details of my soon to come build and I am having some questions regarding connecting all my devices using the Acquaero 6xt.

Components being connected

1) 2x aquacomputer d5 pumps with USB and aquabus
2) Acquacomputer Farbwerk LED controller
3) 24+ EK vardar PWM fans

Questions

1) From what I was told i can connect the pumps using the spare aquabus header on the Farbwerk, by using a 3 pin aquabus splitter cable?

2) If this is true my question is in regards to connecting the Farbwerk and the Acquaero 6 together, Do i need to use a 3 pin or 4 pin aquabus cable? Do i need to power the Farbwerk via seperate Molex power connector or will a 4 pin acquabus connector from the Acquaero 6 provide power to the LED strips?

3) I am still confused in regards to using both USB and Acquabus. In regards to the pump from what i have read so far i have to use the USB to set a different device ID in the AC suite so it will differentiate between both pumps. If this is the case do i then disconnect the USB cables or can i leave them connected.

4) I can connect all my fans to swiftech 8 way pwm splitters and then run the PWM cable from the splitter to one of the PWM fan channels on the Acquaero 6

Thanks for all the help.


----------



## jvillaveces

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tju76*
> 
> 1) From what I was told i can connect the pumps using the spare aquabus header on the Farbwerk, by using a 3 pin aquabus splitter cable?


You can connect them to any aquabus header, whether on the Aquaero, the Farbwerk, or a poweradjust, but you need to use 4-pin cables. Yes, you can use one or more splitters to connect multiple aquabus devices to a single header
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tju76*
> 
> 2) If this is true my question is in regards to connecting the Farbwerk and the Acquaero 6 together, Do i need to use a 3 pin or 4 pin aquabus cable? Do i need to power the Farbwerk via seperate Molex power connector or will a 4 pin acquabus connector from the Acquaero 6 provide power to the LED strips?


You need a 4-pin cable. The farbwerk requires its own molex power
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tju76*
> 
> 3) I am still confused in regards to using both USB and Acquabus. In regards to the pump from what i have read so far i have to use the USB to set a different device ID in the AC suite so it will differentiate between both pumps. If this is the case do i then disconnect the USB cables or can i leave them connected.


You need to use the USB connection to set up each pump and give it its unique aquabus address. Once it has it, you can connect the aquabus cable, and will see it under the aquero/pumps section of Aquasuite. At this point, you can either keep or remove the USB connection.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tju76*
> 
> 4) I can connect all my fans to swiftech 8 way pwm splitters and then run the PWM cable from the splitter to one of the PWM fan channels on the Acquaero 6


I don't know if a single fan channel can support 24 Vardars , but I'm sure someone will chime in with the answer to that one. However, even if it can, it's probably better to split your fans, for example by rad, or by loop, so that you can control them independently.


----------



## tju76

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *InfoSeeker*
> 
> Yes, you can have both communications ports connected simultaneously.
> 
> EDIT: from section 5.5 of the manual (highlights mine):


Is it necessary to connect the USB cable to the Farbwerk
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jvillaveces*
> 
> You can connect them to any aquabus header, whether on the Aquaero, the Farbwerk, or a poweradjust, but you need to use 4-pin cables. Yes, you can use one or more splitters to connect multiple aquabus devices to a single header
> You need a 4-pin cable. The farbwerk requires its own molex power
> You need to use the USB connection to set up each pump and give it its unique aquabus address. Once it has it, you can connect the aquabus cable, and will see it under the aquero/pumps section of Aquasuite. At this point, you can either keep or remove the USB connection.
> I don't know if a single fan channel can support 24 Vardars , but I'm sure someone will chime in with the answer to that one. However, even if it can, it's probably better to split your fans, for example by rad, or by loop, so that you can control them independently.


Thank you for the help. Are you sure it needs to be a 4 pin aquabus cable. I was told earlier that a 3 pin cable was fin. the cable that comes with the pump is a 3 pin cable. From my understanding the only difference between the 3 pin and 4 pin is the 4 pin provides 5v power since the pumps are powered by its own molex connections a 3 pin aquabus cable would work fine. I have also seen pictures showing the 3 pin aquabus cable being used obviously i could be mistaken.


----------



## Mega Man

The 4 pin aqua bus is not needed if the unit gets power from the fat 4 pin from the psu.

As to the fans you will need to check the amp draw.


----------



## tju76

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> The 4 pin aqua bus is not needed if the unit gets power from the fat 4 pin from the psu.
> 
> As to the fans you will need to check the amp draw.


Just to clarify you mean that i can use the 3 pin aquabus cables for the pumps since the pumps get power from the PSU?


----------



## wa3pnt

To the best of my knowledge, the only AQ devices that benefits from the 4 pin Aquabus Cable are the MPS devices. The MPS Flow Devices can utilize the 5V power on the 4th wire, and the USB connection (which also provides 5V power) can be removed.

RodeoGeorge


----------



## jvillaveces

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tju76*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> The 4 pin aqua bus is not needed if the unit gets power from the fat 4 pin from the psu.
> 
> As to the fans you will need to check the amp draw.
> 
> 
> 
> Just to clarify you mean that i can use the 3 pin aquabus cables for the pumps since the pumps get power from the PSU?
Click to expand...

I have the exact same setup you describe. I originally connected the pumps to aquabus with 3-pin cables AND THE AQUAERO DIDN'T SEE THEM. When I changed to 4-pin cables everything worked as expected.


----------



## Mega Man

That is why I carefully worded it as those that get the power from the psu.

The pumps may not idk I have not used them. AC needs to make some ddcs with aquabus

Did you try leaving the usb plugged in at the same time as the aquabus? Iirc they made it this way you you didn't damage the unit by plugging in both although I could be wrong


----------



## jvillaveces

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> That is why I carefully worded it as those that get the power from the psu.
> 
> The pumps may not idk I have not used them. AC needs to make some ddcs with aquabus
> 
> Did you try leaving the usb plugged in at the same time as the aquabus? Iirc they made it this way you you didn't damage the unit by plugging in both although I could be wrong


The pumps get their power from the PSU (molex). I have them connected to power, USB and aquabus, and everything works OK.


----------



## jvillaveces

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wa3pnt*
> 
> To the best of my knowledge, the only AQ devices that benefits from the 4 pin Aquabus Cable are the MPS devices. The MPS Flow Devices can utilize the 5V power on the 4th wire, and the USB connection (which also provides 5V power) can be removed.
> 
> RodeoGeorge


The USB pumps are MPS devices. I believe you are correct, if hooked to aquabus the USB connection can be removed. However, if you ever need to reset them, you need to plug it back in, so assuming you have enough USB ports, why bother disconnecting USB?


----------



## tju76

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> That is why I carefully worded it as those that get the power from the psu.
> 
> The pumps may not idk I have not used them. AC needs to make some ddcs with aquabus
> 
> Did you try leaving the usb plugged in at the same time as the aquabus? Iirc they made it this way you you didn't damage the unit by plugging in both although I could be wrong


The pumps get power from the PSU by the molex, so this means i can use 3 pin aquabus connectors?


----------



## rolldog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *InfoSeeker*
> 
> Actually, the new farbwerk USB, Bluetooth and aquabus version has it all, you give up nothing... just costs 10 EUR more for the Bluetooth functionality.


Just like your post just before this, was an excerpt from the manual stating that the Aquabus can't be used with the Bluetooth version. Actually, they cut the pins off the Aquabus connection. 

Are you saying that they've come out with another version, which allows someone to use the aquabus along with the Bluetooth and the USB connection? I haven't had an opportunity to mess around with mine yet since I'm still working on the case and an still waiting on the mounts for the Aquaero. If they recently released a version that's compatible with all interfaces, I guess I should check and see which one I bought.


----------



## InfoSeeker

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rolldog*
> 
> Just like your post just before this, was an excerpt from the manual stating that the Aquabus can't be used with the Bluetooth version. Actually, they cut the pins off the Aquabus connection.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Are you saying that they've come out with another version, which allows someone to use the aquabus along with the Bluetooth and the USB connection? I haven't had an opportunity to mess around with mine yet since I'm still working on the case and an still waiting on the mounts for the Aquaero. If they recently released a version that's compatible with all interfaces, I guess I should check and see which one I bought.


The product page of farbwerk USB, Bluetooth and aquabus version title is "farbwerk USB, Bluetooth and aquabus version", and if you scroll down a bit you will see:
Quote:


> Bluetooth and aquabus version (revision 2):
> The Bluetooth and aquabus version of ther farbwerk can have all outputs controlled via Bluetooth, additionally all sensor inputs are available via Bluetooth. This requires a Bluetooth device as well as an app. Aqua Computer currently supplies a basic Android demo app (compatible with Android 4.4 KitKat or higher) including source code that can be used to set the outputs of the farbwerk. Other mobile operationg systems are not supported! All features of the aquabus version are available as well. As a matter of course, this version can also be used as an USB device without Bluetooth or aquabus connection.


Which makes me believe revision 2 has USB, aquabus and Bluetooth all in one.

You are correct in pointing out the manual linked does not say that. And in looking at the manual, I see the updated English version2 was accidentally incorrectly linked to the older version on aquacomputer's site. The version 2 English manual is not available from the download page.

The Deutsch version appears to be the correct one for version 2, and if you are conversant in Deutsch, it may be helpful.

If you have already purchased a farbwerk, and the aquabus pins are nipped off, then you may have version 1.


----------



## Mega Man

That is pretty cool they made a better version. No Mater what with the new version you are covered. I understand why they have a "beta" android version with so many devices and flavors of android out. I also personally love no support for Apple.

And I understand why they did that as well speaking from the programming side I hear apple is a night made to deal with to get their approval for your app

I wish more companies would take this stand. Maybe apple would learn no one wants there shenanigans. Like the fact they have to use different resistors in their headphones for volunteers up/down next and back. The funniest excuse I heard for Apple doing that was that it improved sound quality. .. but I digress I just hope less people support apple.

So now that you @shoggy are using Bluetooth. Will you please release your ir led for my htpc! And will you start to make a Bluetooth version aquaero?


----------



## Jakusonfire

Huh, that's interesting. When the Fabwerk first came out the guys at Aquacomp said there were two versions, aquabus and Bluetooth, because of hardware IO limitations. They must have upgraded something significant.

As to the aquabus cables ... The USB pumps will work fine with 3 pin aquabus. The devices that need 4 pin are the mps devices that feature a pressure sensor. It is the sensor itself that needs it.
I find its easier to just use 4 pin universally though. No confusion.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> Huh, that's interesting. When the Fabwerk first came out the guys at Aquacomp said there were two versions, aquabus and Bluetooth, because of hardware IO limitations. They must have upgraded something significant.
> 
> As to the aquabus cables ... The USB pumps will work fine with 3 pin aquabus. The devices that need 4 pin are the mps devices that feature a pressure sensor. It is the sensor itself that needs it.
> I find its easier to just use 4 pin universally though. No confusion.


Yea, I'm not sure they're reading it correctly either . . . .

Would be nice if you could have both Aquabus and BT, but the operative phrase in the passage they quoted; " All features of the aquabus version are available as well. As a matter of course, this version can also be used as an USB device without Bluetooth or aquabus connection.",

Says that all _features_ of the Aquabus version are available . . . doesn't say that Aquabus itself is available.

Would be nice to see them both available, but hard to see them doing that much more R&D for such a low cost product.

Darlene


----------



## Jakusonfire

I dunno, the description in the store site has definitely changed significantly. I think they might be right.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> I dunno, the description in the store site has definitely changed significantly. I think they might be right.


That would be nice if it is.


----------



## Shoggy

The newer farbwerk supports everything at the same time.

For example you could control channel 1 by USB, channel 2 by Bluetooth and channel 3 and 4 by aquabus. Of course every other combination is possible too.

The wrong link in the manual section has been fixed.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> The newer farbwerk supports everything at the same time.
> 
> For example you could control channel 1 by USB, channel 2 by Bluetooth and channel 3 and 4 by aquabus. Of course every other combination is possible too.
> 
> The wrong link in the manual section has been fixed.


That's good news . . . .

Are they available from the usual etailers in the states yet, or just aquatuning?

D.


----------



## Dagamus NM

Sweet. Thank you very much.

Any chance of getting Bluetooth working with iOS?


----------



## Shoggy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Are they available from the usual etailers in the states yet, or just aquatuning?


I don't know. The new version has a different product number (53207) so you should check this one in shops.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dagamus NM*
> 
> Any chance of getting Bluetooth working with iOS?


Already answered here.


----------



## [T]yphoon

i have a problem with both of my EK D5 Vario PWM pumps
on the EK website they listed that the pumps have a max speed of 4800rpm
but for some reason both my pumps can't get over 4000rpm, and even my Aquaero 6 PRO says that they are working at 100% speed (12volts)
is this a normal problem or do i have 2 broken pumps?


----------



## Shoggy

The problem is that these pumps do not correlate with Intels PWM specifications. They are missing a pull-up circuit for the PWM signal.

There are tutorials inside this topic to make your pump compatible but I am currently not at work where I have saved a link to a good explanation.

*edit:* found it! -> http://www.overclock.net/t/1474470/ocn-aquaero-owners-club/2150#post_22946282


----------



## rolldog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *InfoSeeker*
> 
> The product page of farbwerk USB, Bluetooth and aquabus version title is "farbwerk USB, Bluetooth and aquabus version", and if you scroll down a bit you will see:
> Which makes me believe revision 2 has USB, aquabus and Bluetooth all in one.
> 
> You are correct in pointing out the manual linked does not say that. And in looking at the manual, I see the updated English version2 was accidentally incorrectly linked to the older version on aquacomputer's site. The version 2 English manual is not available from the download page.
> 
> The Deutsch version appears to be the correct one for version 2, and if you are conversant in Deutsch, it may be helpful.
> 
> If you have already purchased a farbwerk, and the aquabus pins are nipped off, then you may have version 1.


Well, I just opened it to look, since I'm nowhere close to installing it yet, and my farb came with an Aquabus cable and no pins are removed, so I'm guessing I have the newer one.


----------



## Shoggy

Just check the product number on the label: 53207 is the current version.


----------



## [T]yphoon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> The problem is that these pumps do not correlate with Intels PWM specifications. They are missing a pull-up circuit for the PWM signal.
> 
> There are tutorials inside this topic to make your pump compatible but I am currently not at work where I have saved a link to a good explanation.
> 
> *edit:* found it! -> http://www.overclock.net/t/1474470/ocn-aquaero-owners-club/2150#post_22946282


i also have a Poweradjust 3 Ultra (so no pwn option) and i still can't get over 4000rpm with the pump, it also says 100% power @ 11.8volts

EDIT: made a screenshot, fan6 (PA3) has no fan at all but still shows a voltage of 11.8, possible bug?
both pumps are on the AQ6 with only speed control (minimal rpm is 4300rpm)


----------



## Shoggy

That is normal and caused by the way how the PWM control is implemented into the pump. Normally the pump should run at 100% power if no PWM signal is present. That has nothing to do with the aquaero - the pump itself is the problem. If you apply the mentioned mod you can fully control the pump and also reach the maximum speed.

By the way: we also sell a D5 PWM variant and as far as I know it is the only one that is doing it the right way because we modify these pumps after we get them from the manufacturer.


----------



## DMatthewStewart

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> Only 840? I am pushing 2400 in my th10. Come on you need more rad space !


Wuuut?!?!

One day I am going to come to your house and take all your rads and put a single 120mm in your rig

BTW, interested in a Crosshair V Formula-Z with cpu block and full cover motherboard block? Im probably selling mine soon

Im wondering, with the Real Time Clock on my LT, will that save my settings when I swap my motherboard out? Im assuming it will because my settings were saved when I had it briefly unplugged (for about 25 mins) last time. But I have never had the unit unplugged for any longer


----------



## Shoggy

The aquaero saves all settings in its memory. The RTC module is not necessary for that; it only keeps the data and time if no USB connection is present to sync that at system startup.


----------



## InfoSeeker

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> Just check the product number on the label: 53207 is the current version.


@Shoggy: Looking at both farbwerk product pages, with and without Bluetooth, it appears the all-in-one with Bluetooth version has additional chips on the backside. If one no longer has the packaging, can this be used to determine if a farbwerk has bluetooth capability?


----------



## Shoggy

That little green board is a very common standard Bluetooth module. Of course it must be there if you want to use Bluetooth.

Your question almost feels a bit weird


----------



## InfoSeeker

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> That little green board is a very common standard Bluetooth module. Of course it must be there if you want to use Bluetooth.
> 
> Your question almost feels a bit weird


Heh, the intent was to find a way to distinguish between a version 1 and 2 farbwerk if the packaging with the product number is no longer available.


----------



## Shoggy

farbwerk with aquabus only = aquabus ports but no Bluetooth module
farbwerk with Bluetooth only = Bluetooth module but no aquabus ports
farbwerk with Bluetooth and aquabus = Bluetooth module and aquabus ports


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DMatthewStewart*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> Only 840? I am pushing 2400 in my th10. Come on you need more rad space !
> 
> 
> 
> Wuuut?!?!
> 
> One day I am going to come to your house and take all your rads and put a single 120mm in your rig
> 
> BTW, interested in a Crosshair V Formula-Z with cpu block and full cover motherboard block? Im probably selling mine soon
> 
> Im wondering, with the Real Time Clock on my LT, will that save my settings when I swap my motherboard out? Im assuming it will because my settings were saved when I had it briefly unplugged (for about 25 mins) last time. But I have never had the unit unplugged for any longer
Click to expand...

that is just my th10 not my m8 or s3s i have not even started on my tx10 yet, that case though, will be in my heart forever, as of now it is the LARGEST pc case made, and now that it is discontinued, i bet it will hold that title forever. this is without any peds with it !

2400 will look small in comparison !


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *[T]yphoon*
> 
> 
> i also have a Poweradjust 3 Ultra (so no pwn option) and i still can't get over 4000rpm with the pump, it also says 100% power @ 11.8volts
> 
> EDIT: made a screenshot, fan6 (PA3) has no fan at all but still shows a voltage of 11.8, possible bug?
> both pumps are on the AQ6 with only speed control (minimal rpm is 4300rpm)


So you described your pump as a d5 vario pwm, but is it the vario with a speed dial or the pwm model?

If it is the pwm it should be used only with pwm mode.

However from the screenshot it seems the pump is drawing power which should not be the case.

Unless I'm mistaken it looks like you have the pumps connected incorrectly.


----------



## [T]yphoon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> So you described your pump as a d5 vario pwm, but is it the vario with a speed dial or the pwm model?
> 
> If it is the pwm it should be used only with pwm mode.
> 
> However from the screenshot it seems the pump is drawing power which should not be the case.
> 
> Unless I'm mistaken it looks like you have the pumps connected incorrectly.


doesnt matter which mode i use, it doesnt go any faster then 4000rpm
already contacted EKWB about this problem, hopefully (but i doubt) they come with a good solution
it is the one in pwn, so an ek pump with a molex cable and a pwm connector


----------



## Mega Man

1 dont voltage control pwm devices, it causes damage to them

1 even if you use voltage control, unless you pull up the PWM line it WILL NOT run at full speed, some motherboards do it for you, but according to INTEL PWM specs the motor running PWM needs a 5v pull up which the d5s DO NOT ( with the rare exception of the ac pwm one ( HERE )
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> The problem is that these pumps do not correlate with Intels PWM specifications. They are missing a pull-up circuit for the PWM signal.
> 
> There are tutorials inside this topic to make your pump compatible but I am currently not at work where I have saved a link to a good explanation.
> 
> *edit:* found it! -> http://www.overclock.net/t/1474470/ocn-aquaero-owners-club/2150#post_22946282


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *[T]yphoon*
> 
> doesnt matter which mode i use, it doesnt go any faster then 4000rpm
> already contacted EKWB about this problem, hopefully (but i doubt) they come with a good solution
> it is the one in pwn, so an ek pump with a molex cable and a pwm connector


Yeah it was clear it wasn't working as expected but switching it to a mode that can't work won't help is all. Speed control is voltage control.

If only the pwm cable is connected, and its connected properly on the header it should not be showing it as drawing 3 watts of power. The pwm cable doesn't have power wires to draw current.

Showing a voltage is normal because that is the default even when nothing is connected but showing current is not.


----------



## [T]yphoon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> Yeah it was clear it wasn't working as expected but switching it to a mode that can't work won't help is all. Speed control is voltage control.
> 
> If only the pwm cable is connected, and its connected properly on the header it should not be showing it as drawing 3 watts of power. The pwm cable doesn't have power wires to draw current.
> 
> Showing a voltage is normal because that is the default even when nothing is connected but showing current is not.


The pwm cable is connected
Btw, if speed control is voltage control, what is power control then?


----------



## TheGreyWizard

Just came across the Real Time Clock expansion module and wondering if its something I need/want?

Is this just a back up battery, or does it actually giving the AE6 the ability to show the time on it's dispaly? Or does the AE6 show the time without this anyways and it is indeed just a back up battery for the time?

I do plan on having the AE6 powered via the PSU (I assume anyways) so not sure if I really need/want this.

If however it is a module that actually gives the AE6 the ability to have an actually clock on the display, it is probably an add on that I would like to get for it.


----------



## Shoggy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *[T]yphoon*
> 
> Btw, if speed control is voltage control, what is power control then?


It is also voltage control but uses the rpm signal as target. So instead of saying it should run 75% you could say it should run with 3500 rpm and the voltage is adjusted to achieve this speed (does not work for PWM since this uses a different mode).

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheGreyWizard*
> 
> Just came across the Real Time Clock expansion module and wondering if its something I need/want?
> 
> Is this just a back up battery, or does it actually giving the AE6 the ability to show the time on it's dispaly? Or does the AE6 show the time without this anyways and it is indeed just a back up battery for the time?
> 
> I do plan on having the AE6 powered via the PSU (I assume anyways) so not sure if I really need/want this.
> 
> If however it is a module that actually gives the AE6 the ability to have an actually clock on the display, it is probably an add on that I would like to get for it.


The real time clock just stores the time and date when the aquaero is disconnected from the power (main and USB). This module is useful for applications where no PC is involved that would sync these data automatically.


----------



## TheGreyWizard

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> The real time clock just stores the time and date when the aquaero is disconnected from the power (main and USB). This module is useful for applications where no PC is involved that would sync these data automatically.


Is there any reason why someone would not keep a USB connection between their AE6 & their mobo?

I guess I'm confused as to why the real time clock exists, seems it would be a pretty standard thing to keep a usb connection from AE6 to the mobo? Or am I missing something here? When/how would an AE6 be used without a PC?


----------



## fast_fate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheGreyWizard*
> 
> Is there any reason why someone would not keep a USB connection between their AE6 & their mobo?
> 
> I guess I'm confused as to why the real time clock exists, seems it would be a pretty standard thing to keep a usb connection from AE6 to the mobo? Or am I missing something here? When/how would an AE6 be used without a PC?


Having an Aquaero powered from a secondary PSU which operates independently of the primary PSU, I have USB disconnected so the 5V from USB doesn't run back through the motherboard (activating some on-board LEDs) and on to the primary PSU.

I also have an Aquaero in a stand alone power/control pack which is set up for fan testing - PC connection not required, just display and control


----------



## TheGreyWizard

Ahh ok, I don't think I will need the real time clock module then based on those concepts.

Are you able to set the main AE6 display to show the time and inline water temp at all times? I assume you can set multiple read outs to be on the home screen of the AE 6 at all times?


----------



## jlakai

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheGreyWizard*
> 
> Ahh ok, I don't think I will need the real time clock module then based on those concepts.
> 
> Are you able to set the main AE6 display to show the time and inline water temp at all times? I assume you can set multiple read outs to be on the home screen of the AE 6 at all times?


The real benefit to the Realtime Clock Module is that it has two Highspeed ports.


----------



## TheGreyWizard

What additonal devices/modules would need the high speed ports?

I plan on getting an AE6 XT, running 14 fans and 2 D5 pumps off of 3 out of the 4 fan channels. I'm also considering getting a Flow sensor 400, but not totally sold on it since i'm already over building my system with two 360 rads and dual D5 pumps and aquacomputers filter.

Based on that, does anyone think I could still use the flow meter? I plan on having a primochill visual flow indicator as well. Just not sure I can see the benefit of spending the extra on the Flow sensor 400 if I have overbuilt my rad and pump setup and also have the filter.

Anything else I should consider for the aquacomputer setup?


----------



## fast_fate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheGreyWizard*
> 
> What additonal devices/modules would need the high speed ports?
> 
> I plan on getting an AE6 XT, running 14 fans and 2 D5 pumps off of 3 out of the 4 fan channels. I'm also considering getting a Flow sensor 400, but not totally sold on it since i'm already over building my system with two 360 rads and dual D5 pumps and aquacomputers filter.
> 
> Based on that, does anyone think I could still use the flow meter? I plan on having a primochill visual flow indicator as well. Just not sure I can see the benefit of spending the extra on the Flow sensor 400 if I have overbuilt my rad and pump setup and also have the filter.
> 
> Anything else I should consider for the aquacomputer setup?


If you have plans to wire the Aquaero into power system, you can use the flow meter data to set up with an alarm to shut down the system on a "zero flow" event.
By the stage alarm is triggered, coolant would be everywhere already (hopefully in pedestal or basement) but might save some hardware from overheating, and pump might still work afterwards.
MPS flow sensors are silent








I found the PrimoChill flow indicator to make an unbearable ticking noise as it spun around, no matter how I adjust the wheel's washers, so ripped that s#!t out.


----------



## rolldog

I purchased the heatsink for my Aquaero 6 XT, and I saw yesterday that heatsinks are available for the Poweradjusts. I've never used the Aquaero before, but seeing that a waterblock was available for it, I'm assuming it's going to run hot. Plus, the heatsink makes the back of the Aquaero look cleaner. Do the Poweradjusts and/or the Farbwerk normally run hot as well? Would a heatsink for them be beneficial?


----------



## ruffhi

How many pumps do you need for a 2 x 360 res + 3 x blocks? I was planning on 1. Is that enough? What sort of flow should I expect?


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheGreyWizard*
> 
> Ahh ok, I don't think I will need the real time clock module then based on those concepts.
> 
> Are you able to set the main AE6 display to show the time and inline water temp at all times? I assume you can set multiple read outs to be on the home screen of the AE 6 at all times?


Yes you can. You can set it up to do many things with the display. I would read the manual and after you have messed with it ask questions then ( using it really helped me understand )

I have pics on this thread but I am on mobile atm and no access to it sorry
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rolldog*
> 
> I purchased the heatsink for my Aquaero 6 XT, and I saw yesterday that heatsinks are available for the Poweradjusts. I've never used the Aquaero before, but seeing that a waterblock was available for it, I'm assuming it's going to run hot. Plus, the heatsink makes the back of the Aquaero look cleaner. Do the Poweradjusts and/or the Farbwerk normally run hot as well? Would a heatsink for them be beneficial?


The 5s did but the 6s really don't
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ruffhi*
> 
> How many pumps do you need for a 2 x 360 res + 3 x blocks? I was planning on 1. Is that enough? What sort of flow should I expect?


personal pref. Rads don't mater ( unless you are running insane number of feet to external rads even then it is the length not the rad as it has very little resistance ) 3 blocks imo a second helps but is not needed. Which brings us back to personal pref.


----------



## fast_fate

Radiator restriction can actually vary quite a lot depending on the model









You can expect around 4.5 - 5.0 PSI from either a DDC or D5 with a flow rate at 1.0 gpm

Average GPU block restriction at 1.0 gpm - lets say 0.5 psi. x 3 = 1.5 psi (depending on make & model)
Average CPU block restriction at 1.0 gpm - around 0.75 psi = 0.75 psi (depending on make & model)

which leaves approximately 2.25 - 2.75 psi available for radiators and other loop components.

If the total restriction of components is less than pump pressure for your desired GPM then you'll need less pump rpm (voltage or PWM) to achieve the desired flow rate








Would be a safe guess to say 1 pump is enough, but 2 gives you redundancy/back peace of mind and most likely a quieter pump system as each pump is able to run at lower rpm to achieve the desired flow rate.


----------



## Mega Man

Ok. So how many rads (average rad) would need to be added to a normal loop before worrying about adding a second pump ( not for pleasure, but actual need )

After you answer that

so would you say rads need to be included in determining how many pumps to use. ( can't quote Martin's site atm as I am at work)


----------



## fast_fate

Not quite sure where you're going with this as you're a regular and knowledgeable contributor








Restriction info is almost certainly available for the pump & top output you wish to install, so determine the pressure available for your desired flow rate.
Add the restriction levels for all components going into the loop at the desired flow rate and subtract from the pump output.
If you have a positive number then you will achieve your desired flow rate.
Finding restriction data on all the components will be the hardest part


----------



## psychotik2k3

I tottally agree with teh fact that 2 pumps is great, you can make them run at lowest speed and got enough power for multiple rads and blocks.


----------



## psychotik2k3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> Ok. So how many rads (average rad) would need to be added to a normal loop before worrying about adding a second pump ( not for pleasure, but actual need )
> 
> After you answer that
> 
> so would you say rads need to be included in determining how many pumps to use. ( can't quote Martin's site atm as I am at work)


It depends how silent you want your system.

myself i got 2 low flow 360 mm swiftech radiators + a 140mm , cpu block and vga block and i have a good old aquastream xt taht can hold 60 l per hours at silent level.
By adding the mcp35x a lowest speed i'm at 98l per hour.

Honnestly that's enough and when not in game my fans never starts (right now my water is at 26.8°c for a 25.5°c behind my case under the desk )


----------



## ruffhi

Ok, 2 pumps seems like the way to go. Any tricks re controlling them via a Aquaero?

Or suggestions on dual headers?


----------



## Mega Man

what kind of pump ?
ddc/d5/other

then voltage/vario/pwm control ? or.... aquabus


----------



## ruffhi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> what kind of pump ?
> ddc/d5/other
> 
> then voltage/vario/pwm control ? or.... aquabus


I was looking at a 'Aquacomputer D5 Pump Motor with PWM Input and Speed Signal' with control coming from a 'Aquacomputer Aquaero 6 PRO USB Fan-Controller, Grafik-LCD'.

I'm unsure how to set them up in parallel (definitely only want one loop). TBH, also unsure if the above two go together







.


----------



## Mega Man

you need a pwm splitter ( you are doing 2 pumps so at least 2 channels- or make your own ) then you would use 1 fan channel on the aquaero

i would recommend getting a inline temperature sensor of any kind that is just an example and basing famns/pumps off of a air to water delta


----------



## ruffhi

I can work with that ... control both pumps from same fan channel on aquaero. I was thinking of the monsoon temp (your link) but then I saw the EK version that allows you to keep using the port. I was planning on a few temp sensors at various points in the loop (just for fun and info) ... I might just have two, one at the hottest location and one at the coolest. Noted on the air temp sensor and air / water delta setup.

Any suggestions re dual pump headers?


----------



## Mega Man

personally make your own, but this one is great imo you can run the secondary to a mobo header and monitor the pump rpm and know if it fails, without using another port on the aquaero

http://www.swiftech.com/PWMsplittercable.aspx

just a fyi they sell several types of inline temp sensors like you want ( ac phobia ect just so you know )


----------



## ruffhi

@MegaMan ... I think we are talking at cross purposes. I am not talking about cables et al for signal, electricity, power, etc, etc. I am talking about a pump header for water flow.

https://shop.ekwb.com/ek-d5-dual-top-g1-4-csq-black-acetal










It seems I have been using the wrong word ... '_header_' instead of '_top_'. Using _top_ returns a lot more google hits.


----------



## Mega Man

ah, really it is personal preferences pick what you like


----------



## seross69

Yeah not big difference in them


----------



## wa3pnt

I went with two of these Aquacomputer Pumps:

http://www.performance-pcs.com/aquacomputer-d5-pump-mechanics-with-usb-and-aquabus-interface.html

They are out of stock at PPC, but I ordered mine from Aquatuning US. I'd put a link, but their site is down right now.

Solves the cabling issues, as they can be controlled via USB or Aquabus.

RodeoGeorge


----------



## dng25

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wa3pnt*
> 
> I went with two of these Aquacomputer Pumps:
> 
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/aquacomputer-d5-pump-mechanics-with-usb-and-aquabus-interface.html
> 
> They are out of stock at PPC, but I ordered mine from Aquatuning US. I'd put a link, but their site is down right now.
> 
> Solves the cabling issues, as they can be controlled via USB or Aquabus.
> 
> RodeoGeorge


How long does Aquatuning take to ship to US?


----------



## Shoggy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheGreyWizard*
> 
> Is there any reason why someone would not keep a USB connection between their AE6 & their mobo?
> 
> I guess I'm confused as to why the real time clock exists, seems it would be a pretty standard thing to keep a usb connection from AE6 to the mobo? Or am I missing something here? When/how would an AE6 be used without a PC?


The one thing you are missing is that the aquaero is also used for other stuff than the PC, so there is no USB connection available.


----------



## 0x00000000

Can you use the aquaero 6 xt to turn the led lights connected to it on and off?

Suppose you set the settings, in windows, will those settings persist when you boot to linux?


----------



## Shoggy

Of course you can turn everything that is connected to the aquaero on and off.

All settings are stored within the device so after the setup the USB connection is not required anymore for the basic functions. Special stuff like software sensors etc. still require the USB connection and Windows.


----------



## wa3pnt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dng25*
> 
> How long does Aquatuning take to ship to US?


Their shipping is VERY fast, and reasonably priced. They ship via UPS.

I placed a large order on a Thursday, and it arrived the following Monday. I don't know how UPS gets things through customs so fast.

RodeoGeorge
.


----------



## [T]yphoon

great, the only way to fix it (without rma the pumps) is to buy the resistors and a Zener Diode
dont know any shop here in the Netherlands where they can sell the lot


----------



## jsutter71

How sensitive is the sensor on the front of the 6XT? I'm doing a mod to the front of my case with a 9 mm thick piece of smoked plexiglass in the front. If I positioned the 6 XT flush with the back of the plexiglass, would that impede the ability to receive a signal? Here's what the front looks like.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *[T]yphoon*
> 
> great, the only way to fix it (without rma the pumps) is to buy the resistors and a Zener Diode
> dont know any shop here in the Netherlands where they can sell the lot


rmaing wont fix it, it is a design flaw .from lang

do you have ebay with cheap china sellers on it ! ( serious question )
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jsutter71*
> 
> How sensitive is the sensor on the front of the 6XT? I'm doing a mod to the front of my case with a 9 mm thick piece of smoked plexiglass in the front. If I positioned the 6 XT flush with the back of the plexiglass, would that impede the ability to receive a signal? Here's what the front looks like.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


what are you talking about the touch buttons or the IR , the IR remote is just like a tv remote, so put the plastic in front of your tvs receiver and see if you can still control the tv


----------



## Mads1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> That's the one, I had to get mine from there too.


So glad came across this thread, im looking to connect 2 x darkside dimmable to this also, what is the way to wire this up to the pin out.










Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



http://www.overclock.net/t/1474470/ocn-aquaero-owners-club/2880#post_23334444


----------



## [T]yphoon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> rmaing wont fix it, it is a design flaw .from lang
> 
> do you have ebay with cheap china sellers on it ! ( serious question )


i have ebay
but i dont want to buy large numbers


----------



## dng25

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wa3pnt*
> 
> Their shipping is VERY fast, and reasonably priced. They ship via UPS.
> 
> I placed a large order on a Thursday, and it arrived the following Monday. I don't know how UPS gets things through customs so fast.
> 
> RodeoGeorge
> .


They shipped









Faster to ship from Germany to California than it is to ship from Florida to California








I ordered from ppcs first too.


----------



## Mads1

Is it possible if someone can do a diagram how to connect 2 x darkside LED strips to this plug to go in the PWM 12v connection on the aquaero 6xt, thanks..


----------



## AresTheGod

Hi guys, just wanted to know, is the Aquaero realy worth it, cause it's bit expensive and was does he have more than a normal controler?
Thanks!


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mads1*
> 
> Is it possible if someone can do a diagram how to connect 2 x darkside LED strips to this plug to go in the PWM 12v connection on the aquaero 6xt, thanks..


Can you link to which ones you want? ( are you using rgb? )
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AresTheGod*
> 
> Hi guys, just wanted to know, is the Aquaero realy worth it, cause it's bit expensive and was does he have more than a normal controler?
> Thanks!


I'll put it this way. I own 6. Diva has 5 or 6 in one pc alone

To really answer your question I would recommend you read the instructions.

This unit independently monitors temps and adjusts fans accordingly based off of the fan profile you make.

You can use it with no intraction from the pc using all external temp sensors. Or you can use hw monitor,adia64, or hwinfo and stream temps from your pc to the aq.

You can control allot. Doha can open a door on her case with the remote.you can dim less and a myriad of other things with it.


----------



## Mads1

@Mega Man

Thanks for getting back to me, il be connecting 2 x darkside dimmable LED strips ( not rgb ), to the 12v power output pwm connector on the aquaero 6 xt, just want to make sure i get the wiring right, all help greatly appreciated.


----------



## Mega Man

You have a + and a - if they don't work just reverse them. Make sure to use the 2 pin pwm outputs and don't go over 1a output.


----------



## Mads1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> You have a + and a - if they don't work just reverse them. Make sure to use the 2 pin pwm outputs and don't go over 1a output.


I did think that but wasnt sure if id damage the LED thanks. Also with the aquaero output plug as ive not ordered it yet i take it its a matter of twisting the wires together and screwing into plug.


----------



## Mega Man

You should be fine I have yet to damage aled. They don't let current flow backwards


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> You should be fine I have yet to damage aled. They don't let current flow backwards


Thats right because they are light emitting diodes and current only flows one way


----------



## AresTheGod

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> I'll put it this way. I own 6. Diva has 5 or 6 in one pc alone
> 
> To really answer your question I would recommend you read the instructions.
> 
> This unit independently monitors temps and adjusts fans accordingly based off of the fan profile you make.
> 
> You can use it with no intraction from the pc using all external temp sensors. Or you can use hw monitor,adia64, or hwinfo and stream temps from your pc to the aq.
> 
> You can control allot. Doha can open a door on her case with the remote.you can dim less and a myriad of other things with it.


Thanks for the anwser!
I'm gonna read the Nams's guide!


----------



## AresTheGod

Deleted


----------



## LostParticle

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AresTheGod*
> 
> Ups sorry for the double post, how can I delete it?


Delete it and write Deleted.


----------



## bkvamme

Quick question, will shortening the wires for the thermal probes change the temperature readings? I take it that they are thermoistors, so in theory it shouldn't really matter?


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bkvamme*
> 
> Quick question, will shortening the wires for the thermal probes change the temperature readings? I take it that they are thermoistors, so in theory it shouldn't really matter?


You can shorten them or add extensions without affecting their readings.

D.


----------



## ruffhi

but you can't split them.


----------



## Dagamus NM

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AresTheGod*
> 
> Hi guys, just wanted to know, is the Aquaero realy worth it, cause it's bit expensive and was does he have more than a normal controler?
> Thanks!


Yes. It is expensive but as of yet there is nothing on the market like it. I've been reading Nam's guide since he was nice enough to post it and spend all of the energy putting it together. It answered a few questions I didn't know I had. Inspired me to actually dig into my cramped case and tweak a few things.


----------



## [T]yphoon

few days ago got a reply from EKWB:
Quote:


> EKWB Europe [Igor] (EKWB Support)
> 
> Nov 26, 10:41
> Hi
> 
> I would like to say this is a PWM pump, not a Vario. Vario is manual control and PWM is controlled like you are controlling it.
> 
> I would also like to inform you that these pumps max RPM are 4800 (+ - 15%) which is approximately 4080 so the speed of your pump is quite close to the possible native speed.
> However, if this is unacceptable for you, than you can try RMA it with your seller according to the sellers terms of use of course.
> 
> Best regards, Igor


looks like they think 4000rpm is normal, which is not

also i bought the resistors and diodes (25 each







)


----------



## Anateus

One of myAquaero RGB LEDs wont display correct colours when connected to Farbwerk. Setting it to display green makes it display purple.. What am I doing it wrong? Connections are OK (+/+, arrow/arrow).

EDIT: It does same with other LED strip.
Now the strip that was connected to this channel isnt working anymore, or only first three LEDs are lit.


----------



## rolldog

Does anyone know what brands of RGB LED strips work with the Aquaero Farbwerk? On Amazon, eBay, and hundreds of sites all over the Internet, tons of RGB LED strips are available, but I've bought RGB strips before, and if I'm not mistaken, the ones that work with the Farbwerk have a +BRG pinout, instead of +GRB. I can't tell you how many times I've either ordered connectors (extenders or 90 degree connectors) for strips I already owned or vise versa, and I always get the wrong pinout for what I need.

I know tons of brands exist and tons of strips with different descriptions, like 5050 SMD, 3528, which I believe have different amounts of LEDs per meter. Is there an industry standard and/or a description for these strips so if I buy some, I know they'll have the correct pinout to work the the farbwerk?

This might be your problem too. The power line is in the same place, but the RGB wires are in a different order.


----------



## Mega Man

Where the rgb is does not matter. Wire it correctly and it will work. All that Matters is common anode or common cathode

http://electronics.stackexchange.com/questions/106810/why-are-most-rgb-led-strips-common-anode-instead-of-common-cathode

99% of the time with led strips it doesn't matter


----------



## Anateus

So, I did more research.
There are two AquaComputer RGB LED strips connected to Farbwerk.

First, one of the Aquacomputer RGB LED strips isnt working properly. Only first three lights are working, but not 100% properly (they blink/change colour sometimes).
I noticed that it happens on BOTH cables and all channels.
I though I'll just cut first three leds (5cm) and use the rest of the cable, but hey - another issue.

Cable that was normally connected to that faulty strip seems faulty too.
When I connect my working (2nd) strip to working cable, it displays correct colours.
When I connect it to the "faulty" cable, it displays green as purple, cant display white, etc.

What should I do? RMA faulty cable+strip?


----------



## JasonMorris

Hi Anateus,
I had a similar problem and it was down to connections not being quite right. One of my strips wouldn't go red and it was the R connector that wasn't quite inserted correctly.
Double check.


----------



## Anateus

I cant insert one more or less than others, they're always even.
Now my correctly working strip is also not working quite right... It used to display white, now its greenish white -.-


----------



## rolldog

Right, I'm know I can rewire it, but why should I have to? Why would Aquacomputer develop something that must be rewired 99% of the time? Why wouldn't they just manufacture an item that will work as is with what's available in the marketplace? The Farbwerk is a plug and play device with a 4 pin connector, but they've built it to
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> Where the rgb is does not matter. Wire it correctly and it will work. All that Matters is common anode or common cathode
> 
> http://electronics.stackexchange.com/questions/106810/why-are-most-rgb-led-strips-common-anode-instead-of-common-cathode
> 
> 99% of the time with led strips it doesn't matter


Yes, but why would Aquacomputer build the Farbwerk to source current and run common cathode when 99% of the strips available are common anode? Of course it can be rewired, but that defeats the purpose of buying a device with a 4 pin connector to hook up a 4 pin device. They're not making it very easy for anyone, unless of course, you buy their RGB LED strips instead of some make by a different manufacturer.
.


----------



## DMatthewStewart

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> The aquaero saves all settings in its memory. The RTC module is not necessary for that; it only keeps the data and time if no USB connection is present to sync that at system startup.


Shoggy to the rescue!

I was pretty sure it saved all the settings anyway (even without RTC). This is good news because when I swap motherboards later this week I'll know that it will be working correctly while I reinstall OS. The aquaero is my favorite component (actually its tied with my gpu's). Im also secretly hoping my pump dies so I can get an Aquastream. Ive already prepared it to doe with quick release fittings. Or wait, I guess I could just sell it


----------



## Anateus

Okay, I gave up... Im so frustrated, lost nearly 2 hours because of it (mITX build, cable routing takes some time).
I did it all like Shoggy told me to here:
http://www.overclock.net/t/1474470/ocn-aquaero-owners-club/5800#post_24523739

But in the end, I had no control over LEDs. They would remain off. I decieded to keep them on permanently by using preset mode on Farbwerk. And guess what? My last remaining LED strip just did the same thing, that previous did - only first 3 LEDs were working














I cut them off and rest (20cm) is now working properly.

Now my case is barely illuminated, but... well. Happens.


----------



## Mega Man

That sucks. Sounds like the strip or the connector has issues
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rolldog*
> 
> Right, I'm know I can rewire it, but why should I have to? Why would Aquacomputer develop something that must be rewired 99% of the time? Why wouldn't they just manufacture an item that will work as is with what's available in the marketplace? The Farbwerk is a plug and play device with a 4 pin connector, but they've built it to
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> Where the rgb is does not matter. Wire it correctly and it will work. All that Matters is common anode or common cathode
> 
> http://electronics.stackexchange.com/questions/106810/why-are-most-rgb-led-strips-common-anode-instead-of-common-cathode
> 
> 99% of the time with led strips it doesn't matter
> 
> 
> 
> Yes, but why would Aquacomputer build the Farbwerk to source current and run common cathode when 99% of the strips available are common anode? Of course it can be rewired, but that defeats the purpose of buying a device with a 4 pin connector to hook up a 4 pin device. They're not making it very easy for anyone, unless of course, you buy their RGB LED strips instead of some make by a different manufacturer.
> .
Click to expand...

Umm. You don't want to rewire then buy aq strips.

Otherwise if you buy off brand just rewire it. Rgb to rgb no matter what order. No where did aq guarantee compatability ( plug and play ) with off brand strips

My statement about the common anode vs cathode was stating that you generally don't have to worry about it and you can almost always get it to work.


----------



## IT Diva

The Farbwerks use common anode strips.

The white cables from AC work properly.

I've had the crappy black ones from modmytoys come with colors reversed.

I've also had strips, (RGB from Home Depot) that have the G and B reversed, although they are marked on the strip in the "conventional order".

+ G R B is normal.

Be sure if you are using the quick connectors that the strip just slides into and then you close the top, that you have the strip in correctly . . .

If you put the wrong end of the strip in, it won't work, because you'll have the +12 on the strip lined up under the B contact.

The +12V wire is typically the black one, be sure the +12 on the strip is under the black wire's contact.

Also note that you may have to scrape some clear coating off the copper pads at the ends.

Darlene


----------



## rolldog

Common Anode? Great, thanks for clearing that up. There are so many manufacturers making LED strips these days, demand has everyone jumping on the bandwagon with no regard to labeling (like your HD experience). Since pin 1 is +12V, pin 2 is GND Blue, pin 3 is GND Red, and pin 4 is GND Green, as long as you get the power line correct, the strips shouldn't burn up. I guess the worst case would be selecting a color and getting a different color.

Mega Man, that's what I was trying to say. If someone bought the AQ strips, then nothing else should need to be done. The only rewiring that might be needed is if the colors were reversed on a non-AQ strip. Makes me feel better though. It's a lot different than reversing the pins of a MOLEX connector, which are +5V & +12V.

I just want to make sure I don't catch on fire, but if I do, I'll definitely put it in a build log, if I ever start one. I had some strips on order, but they never arrived. UPS said they dropped the package off at the front door, which they did, but after opening it, I noticed a few other things were in the package, but the RGB LED strips were MIA. So, I'm still looking through the vast quantity of RGB LED strips on the market. It's amazing how many people make them now. I even saw some Christmas ones someone was selling. That would make decorating easier. No more using the staple gun to hang lights around the outside of the house and praying that I don't pierce a wire.

FYI, thanks for the info from everyone. I'm glad this forum is here. And for anyone interested in setting up some "outside the box" LED lighting, I ran across this website today, http://www.vozop.com/index.php/
Even though they're in China, they said they use DHL, FedEx, UPS, etc for shipping, which normally goes out the following day after placing an order. That means an order should arrive anywhere within 4-8 days after placing the order. They carry some interesting things, especially the 5M 1200 LED strips.


----------



## Mega Man

there is not as many led as you think, they all come from the same factories in china -- i just buy my leds when i go to china ( last year i spent like 300 on leds, i got plenty ! )


----------



## rolldog

300 Yen or USD?


----------



## Mega Man

Usd


----------



## Dagamus NM

Yen is Japan. 300 yen is not very much money either.

LEDs can get expensive quick. High demand at this time of year. I wish I had four rolls of LEDs so I could use my farbwerk to light up my living room and tree for Christmas.

I have four unused farbwerks, a dozen of the white cables and a bunch of leds from PPCs in 6", 12", 18" and 24" lengths but it would be so much easier to use a couple of large spools. I think I will toy with these for Christmas lighting as I have them and haven't done anything with them since I got them.


----------



## wa3pnt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dagamus NM*
> 
> Yen is Japan. 300 yen is not very much money either.
> 
> LEDs can get expensive quick. High demand at this time of year. I wish I had four rolls of LEDs so I could use my farbwerk to light up my living room and tree for Christmas.
> 
> I have four unused farbwerks, a dozen of the white cables and a bunch of leds from PPCs in 6", 12", 18" and 24" lengths but it would be so much easier to use a couple of large spools. I think I will toy with these for Christmas lighting as I have them and haven't done anything with them since I got them.


Unfortunately you will not be able to power "spools" of RGB LEDs with your Farbwerk. There is a current limitation, and if memory serves me, you can only power about 1-1/2 meter of 5050s per Farbwerk channel.

RodeoGeorge


----------



## Mega Man

But my 1600w psu does not have this issue


----------



## ratzofftoya

For loop testing purposes, if I just plug in the molex of the Aquacomputer D5 USB/Aquabus pumps (and do not plug them into the aquaero at all), will they turn on? I'd like to test the pumps and check for leaks and all that before turning on the mobo and setting up the Aquaero.


----------



## [T]yphoon

remove the 24pin connector cable from the mobo and connect the green wire to a black one (make a bridge with a paperclip or something)


----------



## rolldog

Yes, but I think he wants to know if he'll be able to leak test with the pumps hooked up to the Poweradjusts but without powering up the Aquaero. This is something I'd like to know as well even though I'm not that far along with my build.

As far as using the Farbwerk to power your Christmas lights, I was thinking the same thing last night. Especially having the Bluetooth controllable Farbwerk. I wouldn't even have to leave the couch.


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ratzofftoya*
> 
> For loop testing purposes, if I just plug in the molex of the Aquacomputer D5 USB/Aquabus pumps (and do not plug them into the aquaero at all), will they turn on? I'd like to test the pumps and check for leaks and all that before turning on the mobo and setting up the Aquaero.


D5s always run when they have molex power. If the USB pumps are new they will be set at full speed from the factory. Once used they run at the speed they were last set to by the software.


----------



## Mystriss

Just as a note, LED strips are a massive PITA to sort through, I've bought from /so/ many companies looking for ones that aren't junk; nothing irritates me more than installing a light strip in my case and having it quit working after a week or so. The best ones I've found for all my 5050 projects are by Supernight on Amazon. I've used them with the AQ and everything else. You still have to make sure you get the wiring right, but that's the case with /all/ strips because there's no real standard it seems - in fact, I've often found that the strips themselves are not labeled correctly (like the one marked as Red on the strip is actually Green and so forth.) The ones from Supernight have been by far the best of the lot.

The waterproof white version is here - http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00AQT2G9S?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_search_detailpage
and the Black non-waterproof version here - http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00MJYQ4L4?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00
(That said, I can /only/ recommend their LED strips, their LED strip controllers were absolute trash.)


----------



## rolldog

I bought a few of those before and never had any problems with them, except when a kid stepped all over them during Halloween. I bought one of their WiFi controllers, and considering as much as it's been through, it still works fine. It has about 14 different settings in the app or you can just set the color manually.


----------



## Mystriss

Maybe I just have horrible luck with their controllers, or maybe it's just their sound controllers? I'd bought two of the SuperNight version one sound controllers that were both DOA and gave up on them - then they came out with the version two sound controller which has a way nicer remote so I decided to give them another shot, but after three tries to get one that was correctly sync'ed to the remote (which must be done by the factory apparently) I gave up, got a refund. I went back to TorchStar who's sound controllers have never failed me (I've got three of them and they all work perfectly.)


----------



## ratzofftoya

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> D5s always run when they have molex power. If the USB pumps are new they will be set at full speed from the factory. Once used they run at the speed they were last set to by the software.


Excellent, thanks for the help!

By the way, does anyone know if the same is true of the swiftech PWM splitter boards? Meaning, if the molex power is plugged in but the PWM cable is not, will the fans spin at full speed?


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ratzofftoya*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> D5s always run when they have molex power. If the USB pumps are new they will be set at full speed from the factory. Once used they run at the speed they were last set to by the software.
> 
> 
> 
> Excellent, thanks for the help!
> 
> By the way, does anyone know if the same is true of the swiftech PWM splitter boards? Meaning, if the molex power is plugged in but the PWM cable is not, will the fans spin at full speed?
Click to expand...

Yes


----------



## ratzofftoya

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Yes


Righteous! Thanks.


----------



## rolldog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mystriss*
> 
> Maybe I just have horrible luck with their controllers, or maybe it's just their sound controllers? I'd bought two of the SuperNight version one sound controllers that were both DOA and gave up on them - then they came out with the version two sound controller which has a way nicer remote so I decided to give them another shot, but after three tries to get one that was correctly sync'ed to the remote (which must be done by the factory apparently) I gave up, got a refund. I went back to TorchStar who's sound controllers have never failed me (I've got three of them and they all work perfectly.)


You own a disco place or something? ?

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G925A using Tapatalk


----------



## ruffhi

I really like the look of the new EK dual pump system ... but it comes with its own PWM pumps. Will Aquaero play nice with these pumps?


----------



## jvillaveces

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ruffhi*
> 
> I really like the look of the new EK dual pump system ... but it comes with its own PWM pumps. Will Aquaero play nice with these pumps?


Not unless you do a "Diva mod" on them. The only D5 PWM pumps currently in the market that work with the Aquaero out of the box are the Aquacomputer ones. This is not the Aquaero's fault, but rather a non-standard PWM implementation in all other D5 pumps.


----------



## Mega Man

with the diva mod thy will


----------



## Dagamus NM

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jvillaveces*
> 
> Not unless you do a "Diva mod" on them. The only D5 PWM pumps currently in the market that work with the Aquaero out of the box are the Aquacomputer ones. This is not the Aquaero's fault, but rather a non-standard PWM implementation in all other D5 pumps.


I thought the Aquacomputer USB D5's work out of the box.

We know the new PWM pumps with the greenish blue cable works, I don't hear much about the USB d5's though.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dagamus NM*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *jvillaveces*
> 
> Not unless you do a "Diva mod" on them. The only D5 PWM pumps currently in the market that work with the Aquaero out of the box are the Aquacomputer ones. This is not the Aquaero's fault, but rather a non-standard PWM implementation in all other D5 pumps.
> 
> 
> 
> I thought the Aquacomputer USB D5's work out of the box.
> 
> We know the new PWM pumps with the greenish blue cable works, I don't hear much about the USB d5's though.
Click to expand...

The AC USB D5's do work right out of the box . . . . but they are not PWM pumps, though it may be easy for some to jump to that conclusion.

They are effectively, Vario models with the red adjuster dial on a potentiometer, replaced with electronic control of a digipot.

D.


----------



## Costas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dagamus NM*
> 
> I thought the Aquacomputer USB D5's work out of the box.
> 
> We know the new PWM pumps with the greenish blue cable works, I don't hear much about the USB d5's though.


The Aquacomputer USB D5's will work right out of the box.

Reason being is that they receive their speed signal not via the normal PWM fan header setup but via the hi-speed Aquabus port which works totally differently as compared to the standard PWM fan header control.

Oops Darlene beat me to it....


----------



## rolldog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> The AC USB D5's do work right out of the box . . . . but they are not PWM pumps, though it may be easy for some to jump to that conclusion.
> 
> They are effectively, Vario models with the red adjuster dial on a potentiometer, replaced with electronic control of a digipot.
> 
> D.


Wouldn't someone set the pump potentiometers on level 5, or max, and then control them via a voltage control using a Poweradjust?


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rolldog*
> 
> Wouldn't someone set the pump potentiometers on level 5, or max, and then control them via a voltage control using a Poweradjust?


nope. It does not work that way. You will have limited control in that way and not a full range control.


----------



## Dagamus NM

But you have full range of control with the USB version when connected via aquabus right?

So at the end of the day, what is effectively different about controlling the pump via pwm through the fan/pump header or through the aquabus?

My understanding is that PWM allows the device to be slowed down from maximum output via regulating the width of the pulses sent to the device whereas with 12VDC you have to add resistance to lower the current which generates heat in the controller where it is acting as a variable resistor.

At full speed they look the same.

So does the aquaero do something more complicated that just add resistance within the controller for the d5?


----------



## Jakusonfire

You can do that but its much like controlling PWM fans using voltage. A DC fan or pump is a simple motor and circuit that responds to a wide range of voltage. A PWM fan, or these pumps, have complex speed control circuits that are designed to be fed a steady 12V. If you lower the voltage to a D5 Vario/USB it is still trying to run at its set speed and it will do while it can even as voltage is lowered somewhat. The result is a pump that simply shuts down with less than around 8V and it is still trying to run its set speed. In that limited 12V to 8V range the pump will slow down while under load but you get nothing like the full 1800-4800RPM range using the control circuit. It my also be the case that lowering the voltage is not good for the control circuit, similar to PWM fans.


----------



## jvillaveces

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dagamus NM*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *jvillaveces*
> 
> Not unless you do a "Diva mod" on them. The only D5 PWM pumps currently in the market that work with the Aquaero out of the box are the Aquacomputer ones. This is not the Aquaero's fault, but rather a non-standard PWM implementation in all other D5 pumps.
> 
> 
> 
> I thought the Aquacomputer USB D5's work out of the box.
> 
> We know the new PWM pumps with the greenish blue cable works, I don't hear much about the USB d5's though.
Click to expand...

The AC pumps DO work out of the box. I am not aware of any others that do. This is the point I was trying to make, I'm sorry if I caused confusion!

EDIT: After posting this reply I saw Diva's post, so I thought I should clarify: AC sells both PWM and modified Vario flavors of D5. I have both, in different systems. The PWM works just fine with the Aquaero.


----------



## IT Diva

Here's a quick pic showing the Diva mod to a pair of D5's where they plug into fan positions 1 & 2 on the Aquaero.



D.


----------



## Costas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Here's a quick pic showing the Diva mod


Darlene, have you ever thought of incorporating your mod into the D5's casing?

The back usually pops off easily and there is stacks of room inside for the components.

I have a pair of Alphacool PWM D5's which I intend to mod and will more than likely place the components inside the housing.


----------



## rolldog

I have 2 Alphacool D5s that I'm hoping I can control somewhat with 2 Poweradjusts. Instead of buying new pumps, I thought I would try to control them with a voltage control, even if it's not a full range. It would be better than no control at all. Maybe I should buy the passive heatsinks for the Poweradjusts just in case. I think it would look cleaner anyway.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Costas*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Here's a quick pic showing the Diva mod
> 
> 
> 
> Darlene, have you ever thought of incorporating your mod into the D5's casing?
> 
> The back usually pops off easily and there is stacks of room inside for the components.
> 
> I have a pair of Alphacool PWM D5's which I intend to mod and will more than likely place the components inside the housing.
Click to expand...

It's kind of a 6 of one, half dozen of the other choice.

I never thought about putting it in the housing as putting it on the plug is so easy, and if you have dual pumps on a swiftech splitter, you only need to do 1 mod.

There's plenty of space in the housing though, so you could put it there if you want . . . you'll just have to take the power from the molex wires.


----------



## Costas

I was only thinking about it the other day as I wanted to have a look at the internals of a pair of Aquacomputer USB D5 pumps I purchased the other day.

I pulled the back off one of my existing standard PWM D5's.... (just to see how easy it was to access the internals) and then I noticed how much vacant room was in there.


----------



## 0x00000000

Does the aquaero 6 XT have a waterblock?


----------



## Kimir

Yes, optional.


----------



## 0x00000000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kimir*
> 
> Yes, optional.


It says that the waterblock is only compatible with aquaero 5 and not aquaero 6 XT


----------



## Kimir

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *0x00000000*
> 
> It says that the waterblock is only compatible with aquaero 5 and not aquaero 6 XT


Does it?
"the aquaero 5 water block (art. no. 53093) can be installed on top of the passive heat sink". there there.


----------



## Mega Man

Yes you also need to install the passive heatsink to use the waterblock on the 6 series


----------



## Jflisk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Origondoo*
> 
> Hello all,
> 
> for my CL S3 build I still try to do something very unique. So I came up with an idea to have an 6-7" LCD in the bay of the pedestal. The main job for this LCD would be to display the Aquasuite data.
> And now I have a question: Does the AQ Suite run on Rapsberry Pi? I was thinking to connect the Aquaero to Raspberry Pi via USB and AQ Suite to autostart in windowed mode.
> 
> Someone who already did that kind of mod?
> 
> That's the sort of display I have in mind


Look up Aida64 it has capabilities of sending information to a display from aquasuite . It cost about 30.00 for the program but it will allow what you are looking for. There is also go overlay available on the site below

http://www.goverlay.com/

or ebay

http://www.ebay.com/itm/121106592717?_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

AIDA64
http://www.aida64.com/

I use both I have a display on my desktop and a larger Samsung picture frame that provide me information for aquasuite and aida 64


----------



## InfoSeeker

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> Yes you also need to install the passive heatsink to use the waterblock on the 6 series


I've seen a comment that there may be a slight conflict with the 4-pin PSU Molex which is located differently on the 6.


----------



## 0x00000000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kimir*
> 
> Does it?
> "the aquaero 5 water block (art. no. 53093) can be installed on top of the passive heat sink". there there.


but according to aquacomputer:
Please note: aquaero 5 is not included in delivery! The block is not compatible to the aquaero 6!
http://shop.aquacomputer.de/product_info.php?products_id=2671

and according to frozencpu:
Note:
-Adapter may be needed for larger fittings to be used. (distance between fitting centers 22,7 mm
-Does NOT work with Aquaero 6 XT

https://www.frozencpu.com/products/19440/bus-346/Aquacomputer_Aquaero_5_Series_Waterblock_Aquaero_LT_PRO_XT_53093.html

I'm confused


----------



## Kimir

How can you be confused?
Tous the manufacturer, not the reseller.
You need the backplate/passive heat sink in red or black (the link I gave previously) and the block, which also appear in the Aquacomputer shop under the backplate page since it's an accessory linked to it.


----------



## Shoggy

Tonights special show: making easy things super complicated









The aquaero 5 water block can not be mounted directly to the aquaero 6 because the layouts are completely different. So the note that it is incompatible is correct if we look at it from this point of view. Like others said the passive heat sink is required if you want to use the water block with the aquaero 6.

A quick purchasing guide:

aquaero 6 =








aquaero 6 + passive heat sink =








aquaero 6 + passive heat sink + aquaero 5 water block =








aquaero 6 + aquaero 5 water block =









I hope everything is clear now


----------



## ruffhi

Chipping in from the peanut gallery ... _but do you need the water block with the Aquaero 6 given its better heat management?_

I was planning on using the Aquaero 6 with the passive heat sink and calling it a day.


----------



## Kimir

I've been using mine with the passive heat sink only, cool enough for my use since my fan are not powered by AQ6, but with molex and pwm control with AQ6.


----------



## Shoggy

The passive heat sink is already more than enough. The water block is only necessary if you want to take the aquaero to its outer limits at a constant high load. We are talking about 144W in this case.


----------



## ruffhi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> A quick purchasing guide:
> 
> aquaero 6 =
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> aquaero 6 + passive heat sink =
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> aquaero 6 + passive heat sink + aquaero 5 water block =
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> aquaero 6 + aquaero 5 water block =
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I hope everything is clear now


Yes - thx.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kimir*
> 
> I've been using mine with the passive heat sink only, cool enough for my use since my fan are not powered by AQ6, but with molex and pwm control with AQ6.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> The passive heat sink is already more than enough. The water block is only necessary if you want to take the aquaero to its outer limits at a constant high load. We are talking about 144W in this case.


Next special show: communicating _only_ via icons


----------



## Costas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ruffhi*
> 
> Chipping in from the peanut gallery ... _but do you need the water block with the Aquaero 6 given its better heat management?_
> 
> I was planning on using the Aquaero 6 with the passive heat sink and calling it a day.


Hardly anyone bothers with the water block - it's just not required for 99.9% of users.

The Aquaero 6 has a completely different driver design for the fan outputs which is substantially more efficient - Unless you were going to run all 4 outputs at close to their maximum rated output in a continuous fashion, the water block is simply not required.

Many would not even require the passive heatsink as we simply don't load it up enough with the usual dozen or so fans in a typical build.


----------



## jsutter71

Pretty cool! Working on my new build on my TJ11 using a 9mm piece of smoked plexiglass for the front. Today I tested to see if my 6XT's remote would function properly. Not only did the display look bright but the remote worked flawlessly.


----------



## ratzofftoya

So, are Aquabus cables and PWM cables completely interchangeable?


----------



## Costas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ratzofftoya*
> 
> So, are Aquabus cables and PWM cables completely interchangeable?


Yes they are...You can also use common 4-pin spliiters and the like to common up more than one device etc. Just make sure that any cable/splitter that you use connects all 4 signal lines through and it will work fine.


----------



## Mega Man

Nope


----------



## ratzofftoya

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> Nope


So the previous poster is wrong?


----------



## Jakusonfire

A 4 pin cable is a 4 pin cable. It doesn't do anything but connect things so yes Aquabus is just a 4 pin fan cable.

The difference comes with some PWM splitter cables and boards that do not connect all 4 wires to all splitter outputs so they are no good for Aquabus.

Aquabus ... all 4 connections to all headers at all times.
PWM ... some PWM Splitters only connect the 3rd pin on a single splitter output.

That does not mean that PWM cables are not compatible with Aquabus as many are.

Simple.


----------



## 0x00000000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> Tonights special show: making easy things super complicated
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The aquaero 5 water block can not be mounted directly to the aquaero 6 because the layouts are completely different. So the note that it is incompatible is correct if we look at it from this point of view. Like others said the passive heat sink is required if you want to use the water block with the aquaero 6.
> 
> A quick purchasing guide:
> 
> aquaero 6 =
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> aquaero 6 + passive heat sink =
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> aquaero 6 + passive heat sink + aquaero 5 water block =
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> aquaero 6 + aquaero 5 water block =
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I hope everything is clear now


I see that now, thanks for clearing it up.


----------



## 0x00000000

Any recommendations for fan splitters that can split up to 9 PWM fans or more for the aquaero 6 xt?


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ratzofftoya*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> Nope
> 
> 
> 
> So the previous poster is wrong?
Click to expand...

not all all ! my bad, i posted from aphone and somehow missed a bajillion posts, the "nope" was ment for this post
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *InfoSeeker*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> Yes you also need to install the passive heatsink to use the waterblock on the 6 series
> 
> 
> 
> I've seen a comment that there may be a slight conflict with the 4-pin PSU Molex which is located differently on the 6.
Click to expand...

later i can post a pic if you want
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *0x00000000*
> 
> Any recommendations for fan splitters that can split up to 9 PWM fans or more for the aquaero 6 xt?


you will need more then one , the most i have ever seen is 8, or build your own


----------



## ratzofftoya

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> A 4 pin cable is a 4 pin cable. It doesn't do anything but connect things so yes Aquabus is just a 4 pin fan cable.
> 
> The difference comes with some PWM splitter cables that do not connect all 4 wires to all splitter outputs so they are no good for Aquabus.
> 
> Aquabus ... all 4 connections to all headers at all times.
> PWM ... some PWM Splitters only connect the 3rd pin on a single splitter output.
> 
> That does not mean that PWM cables are not compatible with Aquabus as many are.
> 
> Simple.


Some Aquabus cables are 3 pins though, right?


----------



## wa3pnt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ratzofftoya*
> 
> Some Aquabus cables are 3 pins though, right?


Yes, you can use a 3 pin cable for "most" Aquabus connections.

BUT, be aware that the third wire (RPM on the fan cables) is the one that is normally omitted on all but one of the splitter leads, so that only one RPM signal is sent to the device.

RodeoGeorge


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ratzofftoya*
> 
> Some Aquabus cables are 3 pins though, right?


I guess technically aquabus is 3pin and 4 pin is aquabus + accessories power.


----------



## ratzofftoya

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> I guess technically aquabus is 3pin and 4 pin is aquabus + accessories power.


So does the USB Hi-Flow, for example, need the 4-pin aquabus?


----------



## ratzofftoya

Double post


----------



## rolldog

I have a question about the Poweradjusts. How exactly can I use a Poweradjust 3 to control an Alphacool VPP Single Edition Vario D5 pump, which has a MOLEX connector with 2 pins providing it with its power and an RPM signal cable to read the speed of it? I thought the Poweradjusts could control these pumps via voltage control, but after looking through all the info that came with it, I don't see how it's going to do this. I'm far from hooking it up since I'm not that far along in my build, but I was just curious how the Poweradjust controls this pump? (Please note, I've never used an Aquaero before nor have I seen one working, so excuse me if this is something done via the software since I've never seen that before either)


----------



## Dagamus NM

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rolldog*
> 
> I have a question about the Poweradjusts. How exactly can I use a Poweradjust 3 to control an Alphacool VPP Single Edition Vario D5 pump, which has a MOLEX connector with 2 pins providing it with its power and an RPM signal cable to read the speed of it? I thought the Poweradjusts could control these pumps via voltage control, but after looking through all the info that came with it, I don't see how it's going to do this. I'm far from hooking it up since I'm not that far along in my build, but I was just curious how the Poweradjust controls this pump? (Please note, I've never used an Aquaero before nor have I seen one working, so excuse me if this is something done via the software since I've never seen that before either)


You would need to either change the plug or use an adapter to move everything to a single three pin fan header.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ratzofftoya*
> 
> So does the USB Hi-Flow, for example, need the 4-pin aquabus?


If you do not have it connected via usb then you would need power from the fourth aquabus pin. You can get all of the information in aqua suite via usb as an pm's device. Connecting it through the aquabus will allow you to use it as a data source for setting your fan controls.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rolldog*
> 
> I have a question about the Poweradjusts. How exactly can I use a Poweradjust 3 to control an Alphacool VPP Single Edition Vario D5 pump, which has a MOLEX connector with 2 pins providing it with its power and an RPM signal cable to read the speed of it? I thought the Poweradjusts could control these pumps via voltage control, but after looking through all the info that came with it, I don't see how it's going to do this. I'm far from hooking it up since I'm not that far along in my build, but I was just curious how the Poweradjust controls this pump? (Please note, I've never used an Aquaero before nor have I seen one working, so excuse me if this is something done via the software since I've never seen that before either)


My PA3 came with an adapter cable with a female 3 pin to plug onto the PA, that has both molex and 3 pin male connectors for the pump to plug onto.

Everything you need right in the box to use it with a pump.

D.


----------



## Dagamus NM

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> My PA3 came with an adapter cable with a female 3 pin to plug onto the PA, that has both molex and 3 pin male connectors for the pump to plug onto.
> 
> Everything you need right in the box to use it with a pump.
> 
> D.


When going through my box of cables I often come across those and think to myself, what a weird little cable and move on. That is the adapter I was referring to above.


----------



## rolldog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> My PA3 came with an adapter cable with a female 3 pin to plug onto the PA, that has both molex and 3 pin male connectors for the pump to plug onto.
> 
> Everything you need right in the box to use it with a pump.
> 
> D.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> My PA3 came with an adapter cable with a female 3 pin to plug onto the PA, that has both molex and 3 pin male connectors for the pump to plug onto.
> 
> Everything you need right in the box to use it with a pump.
> 
> D.


Awesome, thanks Diva! Like I said, I'm far from completing this build, especially since I just ordered the reverse conversion kit, but when my Aquacomputer bezel came in, I grabbed my 2 Poweradjusts and a Farbwerk so I could put it together and hook them onto the bezel. I didn't even take anything else out of the box yet, but I guess I'll do that now. Thanks for letting me know.


----------



## rolldog

I finally received my case fans, and they're PWM LED fans, but the LED has its own 2 pin power connector. If someone just wanted the LEDs to always be on, the 2 pin power cable would be swapped out with a 2 pin jumper, which came with the fan. Does anyone know if the LEDs on the fans could all be hooked together and then controlled with the Aquaero?


----------



## hisXLNC

ok guys i really need your help because I have no idea what im doing









new aquaero 6 owner here and im a little confused.

my build is setup as follows

molex to aquaero power on the top left and connected to psu

then i have 3 of these swifttech pwm splitters http://www.swiftech.com/8-WayPWMsplitter.aspx

i have one wire with 3 molexes connected to my psu and to each of the 3 splitters

ive connected the fans on the front to 1 splitter in ch 1-3 and the i connected the 4 pin from the splitter to aquaero *Fan 1* (used pwm extension)

ive connected the fans on my top rad to ch 1-4 on 1 of the splitters, and i connect this to *Fan 2* on the aquaero using a pwm extension cable

ive connected the fans from the bottom rad to ch 1-4 on to 1 of the splitters and i connect this to *fan 3* on the aquaero

my exhaust fan is connected using pwm extension wire direct to *fan 4,* on the aquaero. no splitter is used and this fan doesnt seem to work connected direct to the aquaero.

the aquaero only shows me fan 1 having an rpm of 2000. fans 2-4 on the aquaero show rpm of 0 and are blank. all fans are working at their top speed and it sounds like a helicopter next to me.

How can i fix it so the aquaero can properly adjust the fans and they dont all run at max rpm









also I havent connected anything to the pumps (2 aqua usb pumps), and i have only connected the pumps to the psu via molex. which wires do i need for the pumps and where do i connect it on the aquaero?


----------



## electro2u

so ill take a swing at it but I don't have all the answers.

the pwm splitters you have really arent quite exactly what you would want to use, but I would be pretty sure they will still work just fine. they are very nice splitters

The aquaero will supply all power required for any pwm devices so no PSU connection other than to the AQ unit itself is required.

I'm not really sure why the signals would not be reporting back on channel 2 and 3 of your AQ, but most likely the unit simply isn't configured in Aquasuite yet to properly control the channel output signals.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rolldog*
> 
> I finally received my case fans, and they're PWM LED fans, but the LED has its own 2 pin power connector. If someone just wanted the LEDs to always be on, the 2 pin power cable would be swapped out with a 2 pin jumper, which came with the fan. Does anyone know if the LEDs on the fans could all be hooked together and then controlled with the Aquaero?


depends on which fans. what kind of fans did you get bitfenix ?>


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hisXLNC*
> 
> ok guys i really need your help because I have no idea what im doing
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> new aquaero 6 owner here and im a little confused.
> 
> my build is setup as follows
> 
> molex to aquaero power on the top left and connected to psu
> 
> then i have 3 of these swifttech pwm splitters http://www.swiftech.com/8-WayPWMsplitter.aspx
> 
> i have one wire with 3 molexes connected to my psu and to each of the 3 splitters
> 
> ive connected the fans on the front to 1 splitter in ch 1-3 and the i connected the 4 pin from the splitter to aquaero *Fan 1* (used pwm extension)
> 
> ive connected the fans on my top rad to ch 1-4 on 1 of the splitters, and i connect this to *Fan 2* on the aquaero using a pwm extension cable
> 
> ive connected the fans from the bottom rad to ch 1-4 on to 1 of the splitters and i connect this to *fan 3* on the aquaero
> 
> my exhaust fan is connected using pwm extension wire direct to *fan 4,* on the aquaero. no splitter is used and this fan doesnt seem to work connected direct to the aquaero.
> 
> the aquaero only shows me fan 1 having an rpm of 2000. fans 2-4 on the aquaero show rpm of 0 and are blank. all fans are working at their top speed and it sounds like a helicopter next to me.
> 
> How can i fix it so the aquaero can properly adjust the fans and they dont all run at max rpm
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> also I havent connected anything to the pumps (2 aqua usb pumps), and i have only connected the pumps to the psu via molex. which wires do i need for the pumps and where do i connect it on the aquaero?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> so ill take a swing at it but I don't have all the answers.
> 
> the pwm splitters you have really arent quite exactly what you would want to use, but I would be pretty sure they will still work just fine. they are very nice splitters
> 
> The aquaero will supply all power required for any pwm devices so no PSU connection other than to the AQ unit itself is required.
> 
> I'm not really sure why the signals would not be reporting back on channel 2 and 3 of your AQ, but most likely the unit simply isn't configured in Aquasuite yet to properly control the channel output signals.





as usuall he is correct,

i assume you bought all PWM fans correct ?

what pwm extension did you use ( linky ! please )

please take some pics of aquaero !
specifically the "fans" section ( please take 1 pic per fan - ie select each fan ) and please make sure the advanced settings on the display is open ~!!!~!


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rolldog*
> 
> I finally received my case fans, and they're PWM LED fans, but the LED has its own 2 pin power connector. If someone just wanted the LEDs to always be on, the 2 pin power cable would be swapped out with a 2 pin jumper, which came with the fan. Does anyone know if the LEDs on the fans could all be hooked together and then controlled with the Aquaero?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> depends on which fans. what kind of fans did you get bitfenix ?>


I got the hunch he is talking about Phanteks fans? You might be able to connect to the led port on the aquaero. Here is a post relevant for you rolldog:

http://www.overclock.net/t/1423333/aquacomputer-aquaero-6/1570


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hisXLNC*
> 
> ok guys i really need your help because I have no idea what im doing
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> new aquaero 6 owner here and im a little confused.
> 
> my build is setup as follows
> 
> molex to aquaero power on the top left and connected to psu
> 
> then i have 3 of these swifttech pwm splitters http://www.swiftech.com/8-WayPWMsplitter.aspx
> 
> i have one wire with 3 molexes connected to my psu and to each of the 3 splitters
> 
> ive connected the fans on the front to 1 splitter in ch 1-3 and the i connected the 4 pin from the splitter to aquaero *Fan 1* (used pwm extension)
> 
> ive connected the fans on my top rad to ch 1-4 on 1 of the splitters, and i connect this to *Fan 2* on the aquaero using a pwm extension cable
> 
> ive connected the fans from the bottom rad to ch 1-4 on to 1 of the splitters and i connect this to *fan 3* on the aquaero
> 
> my exhaust fan is connected using pwm extension wire direct to *fan 4,* on the aquaero. no splitter is used and this fan doesnt seem to work connected direct to the aquaero.
> 
> the aquaero only shows me fan 1 having an rpm of 2000. fans 2-4 on the aquaero show rpm of 0 and are blank. all fans are working at their top speed and it sounds like a helicopter next to me.
> 
> How can i fix it so the aquaero can properly adjust the fans and they dont all run at max rpm
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> also I havent connected anything to the pumps (2 aqua usb pumps), and i have only connected the pumps to the psu via molex. which wires do i need for the pumps and where do i connect it on the aquaero?


The fan wiring sounds correct from the description. If it isn't working properly then you need to check all the cables and connections. Double check that each splitter board has a fan connected to the single rpm capable output header.
The usb pumps connect to the aquabus high port. You will need an aquabus splitter to connect them both. If you just want manual control of the pumps then usb is fine but If you want the Aquaero to adjust pump speed then Aquabus must be used.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> so ill take a swing at it but I don't have all the answers.
> 
> the pwm splitters you have really arent quite exactly what you would want to use, but I would be pretty sure they will still work just fine. they are very nice splitters
> 
> The aquaero will supply all power required for any pwm devices so no PSU connection other than to the AQ unit itself is required.
> 
> I'm not really sure why the signals would not be reporting back on channel 2 and 3 of your AQ, but most likely the unit simply isn't configured in Aquasuite yet to properly control the channel output signals.


The splitters need to be connected to their own power just as he describes. Their internal wiring means they can't be powered by the Aquaero without modification.


----------



## hisXLNC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> The fan wiring sounds correct from the description. If it isn't working properly then you need to check all the cables and connections. Double check that each splitter board has a fan connected to the single rpm capable output header.
> The usb pumps connect to the aquabus high port. You will need an aquabus splitter to connect them both. If you just want manual control of the pumps then usb is fine but If you want the Aquaero to adjust pump speed then Aquabus must be used.
> The splitters need to be connected to their own power just as he describes. Their internal wiring means they can't be powered by the Aquaero without modification.


after changing the molex wire to the psu all 4 fans now report to the aquaero. they all display rpms of 2000.

ive gone into outputs> fan 1, 2, 3, 4 and tried rpm, pwm, power control mode and lowering them and nothing seems to work.

fan 1 lowered, but after i resetted the aquaero settings and tried again, now it refuses to lower.

i feel like theres something im doing wrong? maybe they all need their own seperate psu and molex connections? but then why doesnt fan 4 which is connected direct to the aquaero work?

the fans are all ek vardars extended range pwm fans


----------



## RDKing2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hisXLNC*
> 
> after changing the molex wire to the psu all 4 fans now report to the aquaero. they all display rpms of 2000.
> 
> ive gone into outputs> fan 1, 2, 3, 4 and tried rpm, pwm, power control mode and lowering them and nothing seems to work.
> 
> fan 1 lowered, but after i resetted the aquaero settings and tried again, now it refuses to lower.
> 
> i feel like theres something im doing wrong? maybe they all need their own seperate psu and molex connections? but then why doesnt fan 4 which is connected direct to the aquaero work?
> 
> the fans are all ek vardars extended range pwm fans


Set to PWM is correct. Do you have the fans configured to a controller in Aquasuite? If you just want to control them manually a preset value controller will work. Once you set it up attach the fans you want to control to it. Then you can move the slider up and down to adjust fan speed.

Edit- I just assumed that PWM fans were being used. Went back through the thread and did not see type of fans. Also just an FYI, I am using those splitters with my Aquaero 6 and PWM fans and they work fine (with 8 fans connected). If hooked up as intended rpm is reported correctly from one fan but the load will not be indicated. The wires from the molex can be wired back into the fan connector and load will be indicated.


----------



## Mystriss

We had a discussion about powered fan splitters a while back









http://www.overclock.net/t/1474470/ocn-aquaero-owners-club/5990#post_24592083


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hisXLNC*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> The fan wiring sounds correct from the description. If it isn't working properly then you need to check all the cables and connections. Double check that each splitter board has a fan connected to the single rpm capable output header.
> The usb pumps connect to the aquabus high port. You will need an aquabus splitter to connect them both. If you just want manual control of the pumps then usb is fine but If you want the Aquaero to adjust pump speed then Aquabus must be used.
> The splitters need to be connected to their own power just as he describes. Their internal wiring means they can't be powered by the Aquaero without modification.
> 
> 
> 
> after changing the molex wire to the psu all 4 fans now report to the aquaero. they all display rpms of 2000.
> 
> ive gone into outputs> fan 1, 2, 3, 4 and tried rpm, pwm, power control mode and lowering them and nothing seems to work.
> 
> fan 1 lowered, but after i resetted the aquaero settings and tried again, now it refuses to lower.
> 
> i feel like theres something im doing wrong? maybe they all need their own seperate psu and molex connections? but then why doesnt fan 4 which is connected direct to the aquaero work?
> 
> the fans are all ek vardars extended range pwm fans
Click to expand...

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *rolldog*
> 
> I finally received my case fans, and they're PWM LED fans, but the LED has its own 2 pin power connector. If someone just wanted the LEDs to always be on, the 2 pin power cable would be swapped out with a 2 pin jumper, which came with the fan. Does anyone know if the LEDs on the fans could all be hooked together and then controlled with the Aquaero?
> 
> 
> 
> depends on which fans. what kind of fans did you get bitfenix ?>
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *hisXLNC*
> 
> ok guys i really need your help because I have no idea what im doing
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> new aquaero 6 owner here and im a little confused.
> 
> my build is setup as follows
> 
> molex to aquaero power on the top left and connected to psu
> 
> then i have 3 of these swifttech pwm splitters http://www.swiftech.com/8-WayPWMsplitter.aspx
> 
> i have one wire with 3 molexes connected to my psu and to each of the 3 splitters
> 
> ive connected the fans on the front to 1 splitter in ch 1-3 and the i connected the 4 pin from the splitter to aquaero *Fan 1* (used pwm extension)
> 
> ive connected the fans on my top rad to ch 1-4 on 1 of the splitters, and i connect this to *Fan 2* on the aquaero using a pwm extension cable
> 
> ive connected the fans from the bottom rad to ch 1-4 on to 1 of the splitters and i connect this to *fan 3* on the aquaero
> 
> my exhaust fan is connected using pwm extension wire direct to *fan 4,* on the aquaero. no splitter is used and this fan doesnt seem to work connected direct to the aquaero.
> 
> the aquaero only shows me fan 1 having an rpm of 2000. fans 2-4 on the aquaero show rpm of 0 and are blank. all fans are working at their top speed and it sounds like a helicopter next to me.
> 
> How can i fix it so the aquaero can properly adjust the fans and they dont all run at max rpm
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> also I havent connected anything to the pumps (2 aqua usb pumps), and i have only connected the pumps to the psu via molex. which wires do i need for the pumps and where do i connect it on the aquaero?
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> so ill take a swing at it but I don't have all the answers.
> 
> the pwm splitters you have really arent quite exactly what you would want to use, but I would be pretty sure they will still work just fine. they are very nice splitters
> 
> The aquaero will supply all power required for any pwm devices so no PSU connection other than to the AQ unit itself is required.
> 
> I'm not really sure why the signals would not be reporting back on channel 2 and 3 of your AQ, but most likely the unit simply isn't configured in Aquasuite yet to properly control the channel output signals.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> as usuall he is correct,
> 
> i assume you bought all PWM fans correct ?
> 
> what pwm extension did you use ( linky ! please )
> 
> please take some pics of aquaero !
> specifically the "fans" section ( please take 1 pic per fan - ie select each fan ) and please make sure the advanced settings on the display is open ~!!!~!
Click to expand...









( same questions )


----------



## Archea47

I'm considering another Aquaero for the Girl's box. It has 6x voltage controlled fans, 1 PWM fan and a PWM pump.

Don't need a screen and the 5LT should suit my needs. Can it be mounted as a bay device, and if so does that require additional hardware? Is there a plate to cover the side the screen mounts to?

Right now it has a dial-type bay mounted voltage controller. I want to keep the build only as loud as it needs to be (will curve off DeltaT from directly attached temp probes) and get away from controlling the PWM pump with voltage. Also don't want the kids turning the knobs and overheating


----------



## Mega Man

You would need the lt mounting kit. You would use your cases oem 5.25 cover. And at least the heatsink for the aquaero if not the waterblock ( assuming a normal fan I think your would be fine with a heatsink and some airflow across it)


----------



## ratzofftoya

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ( same questions )


I'm also curious about @hisXLNC's fate, as I have the same splitters, fans, and Aquaero.


----------



## Mega Man

I ment we need the same info from you


----------



## ratzofftoya

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> I ment we need the same info from you


From me? Why?


----------



## Mega Man

Hahaha. I am blind and dumb. Nvm. Sorry


----------



## Archea47

I'm considering another Aquae
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> You would need the lt mounting kit. You would use your cases oem 5.25 cover. And at least the heatsink for the aquaero if not the waterblock ( assuming a normal fan I think your would be fine with a heatsink and some airflow across it)


Thanks Mega!


----------



## Mega Man

now i am not on mobile
LT mounting kit

heatsink

waterblock

sorry for the delay just got home hope these help !


----------



## Mystriss

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Archea47*
> 
> I'm considering another Aquaero for the Girl's box. It has 6x voltage controlled fans, 1 PWM fan and a PWM pump.
> 
> Don't need a screen and the 5LT should suit my needs. Can it be mounted as a bay device, and if so does that require additional hardware? Is there a plate to cover the side the screen mounts to?
> 
> Right now it has a dial-type bay mounted voltage controller. I want to keep the build only as loud as it needs to be (will curve off DeltaT from directly attached temp probes) and get away from controlling the PWM pump with voltage. Also don't want the kids turning the knobs and overheating


The mounting kit includes two metal "tabs" that screw onto either end of the Aquaero and "pegs" that lines up with a 5.25" drive bay screw slots. I'm afraid mine are still in the package but hopefully the picture helps a little:



My testing showed that the mount kit brought the Aquaero flush with the exterior of the case though so I'm not sure that's what you want to get. If you have a bay cover like this one:



you could get a few small L brackets and mount the Aquaero behind the cover so it'd be completely hidden and un-accessible.

If you have the snap in type of bay cover's (the ones that don't have "legs") I think you'd have to worry about weight if you were water cooling the aquaero, but you could drill through the cover to mount it, but you'd have some screws/bolts visible on the cover plate - basically like the power adjust mount's bay cover here (except with less bolts/screws visible on the cover : http://aquacomputer.de/poweradjust-2.html pictures at bottom of page there)


----------



## RoostrC0gburn

i have encountered a problem. after a recent windows update, i can no longer see HWInfo sensors. this happen with anybody else?

I am running Windows 7 Ultimate 64bit SP1. HWInfo64 5.10-2700, and just forced Aquasuite firmware update

Edit: fixed it. somehow shared memory support got turned off on the HWInfo settings. weird.


----------



## MikeMK

Quick question everyone!

I've got my fan curves working well, and linked to Aida 64 software sensors. However, the fans linked to my CPU tend to rev up really high for a second, and then back down again because the CPU temp occasionally spikes up and back down. This can get pretty irritating.

Is there a way to delay the fan response to the temperature change by 2 or 3 seconds, so that the fans only increase if the temperature increase is sustained for my than just a short spike?


----------



## Sorphius

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MikeMK*
> 
> Quick question everyone!
> 
> I've got my fan curves working well, and linked to Aida 64 software sensors. However, the fans linked to my CPU tend to rev up really high for a second, and then back down again because the CPU temp occasionally spikes up and back down. This can get pretty irritating.
> 
> Is there a way to delay the fan response to the temperature change by 2 or 3 seconds, so that the fans only increase if the temperature increase is sustained for my than just a short spike?


You should be able to set a higher hysteresis.


----------



## MikeMK

Cool... I knew there was a name for it









Which section is that in in aquasuite. Can't see it as an option in the fan curve controller screen?


----------



## electro2u

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MikeMK*
> 
> Quick question everyone!
> 
> I've got my fan curves working well, and linked to Aida 64 software sensors. However, the fans linked to my CPU tend to rev up really high for a second, and then back down again because the CPU temp occasionally spikes up and back down. This can get pretty irritating.
> 
> Is there a way to delay the fan response to the temperature change by 2 or 3 seconds, so that the fans only increase if the temperature increase is sustained for my than just a short spike?


The typical way people do it is by running fan curves based off the water temp, which doesnt shift so quickly.


----------



## Archea47

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MikeMK*
> 
> Quick question everyone!
> 
> I've got my fan curves working well, and linked to Aida 64 software sensors. However, the fans linked to my CPU tend to rev up really high for a second, and then back down again because the CPU temp occasionally spikes up and back down. This can get pretty irritating.
> 
> Is there a way to delay the fan response to the temperature change by 2 or 3 seconds, so that the fans only increase if the temperature increase is sustained for my than just a short spike?


I think eventually you should and will want to consider using sensors directly available to the Aquaero to curve from

The Aquaero can only curve off Aida and other sources while those sources are healthy and available. Which is not the case, for example, during boot until you log into Windows or while reinstalling your operating system.

After curving off CPU software temperature and having your same issue, along with the two I mentioned above, I decided to curve my pumps and fans off the difference between physical water and intake air temperature sensors. Now it's (safely) whisper quiet during boot and scales gradually (and effectively) while gaming and even stressing


----------



## RoostrC0gburn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Archea47*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *MikeMK*
> 
> Quick question everyone!
> 
> I've got my fan curves working well, and linked to Aida 64 software sensors. However, the fans linked to my CPU tend to rev up really high for a second, and then back down again because the CPU temp occasionally spikes up and back down. This can get pretty irritating.
> 
> Is there a way to delay the fan response to the temperature change by 2 or 3 seconds, so that the fans only increase if the temperature increase is sustained for my than just a short spike?
> 
> 
> 
> I think eventually you should and will want to consider using sensors directly available to the Aquaero to curve from
> 
> The Aquaero can only curve off Aida and other sources while those sources are healthy and available. Which is not the case, for example, during boot until you log into Windows or while reinstalling your operating system.
> 
> After curving off CPU software temperature and having your same issue, along with the two I mentioned above, I decided to curve my pumps and fans off the difference between physical water and intake air temperature sensors. Now it's (safely) whisper quiet during boot and scales gradually (and effectively) while gaming and even stressing
Click to expand...

i am also curious to learn about hysteresis settings in aquero.

while i agree that hardwiring sensors is the best design, it is not always practical, and in some cases, impossible. consider an air-cooler rig where water temps are not available.

settings which are saved in the aquero will continue to operate separate from the OS. i would suggest setting a fallback temp on the software sensors such that the fans will still operate in a range that will not allow the system to overheat. the default 50 degrees is usually fine. this way, when the aquero loses software sensors, the controllers just operate at the fallback temperature. if your controller curve is set 30-60 degrees, for example, the aquero will still run those fans at around 85-90% power (depending on how your curve is adjusted)

Mike, is this a power boost issue during startup? or are we talking normal operation?
i would suggest adjusting your curve shape +3 to +5, and maybe widening it to include higher and lower temps. also, check your startup temperature (under manual setup). it may be that it is set high on your curve, and the fans do not kick on until the sensor hits that number

maybe a screenshot of your curves would help?


----------



## Jakusonfire

Hysteresis settings only apply with set point controllers. Curve controllers just do that, follow the curve. A CPU core based curve controller will always bounce around because that is the nature of CPU core temps.


----------



## ratzofftoya

As I set the Aquaero up, what kinds of deltas should I be looking for? Any ideas on optimal curve plots when using hard sensors?


----------



## Sorphius

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ratzofftoya*
> 
> As I set the Aquaero up, what kinds of deltas should I be looking for? Any ideas on optimal curve plots when using hard sensors?


It's tough to generalize with so many variables: ambient temp, radiator space, fan rpm range, noise tolerance, etc. When I usually start out by determining my personal noise tolerance -- how high can I crank them up before they drive me insane. Once I find that threshold, I set the fans as low as they'll go to start, fire up a benchmark loop, and play with the speeds until I find the proverbial sweet spot. You can then set your curve from that.


----------



## Sorphius

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> Hysteresis settings only apply with set point controllers. Curve controllers just do that, follow the curve. A CPU core based curve controller will always bounce around because that is the nature of CPU core temps.


I haven't used Aquasuite yet so please pardon my ignorance... but when I've used Speedfan in the past to set up curves, there's an option to tie the curve to multiple values, and within that menu to link it to either the MAX value, or the SUM of the values.

I've gotten around that problem in Speedfan by tying my CPU fans, for example, to the SUM of the four core temps. So while one of my four cores may be 60C compared to 40C on the others, the value that the curve is linked to only rises by 10% instead of 50%... if that makes sense.


----------



## ratzofftoya

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sorphius*
> 
> It's tough to generalize with so many variables: ambient temp, radiator space, fan rpm range, noise tolerance, etc. When I usually start out by determining my personal noise tolerance -- how high can I crank them up before they drive me insane. Once I find that threshold, I set the fans as low as they'll go to start, fire up a benchmark loop, and play with the speeds until I find the proverbial sweet spot. You can then set your curve from that.


Cool, thanks, that's quite helpful. What are your preferred benchmarks for CPU and GPU? Also, what sorts of temps are you trying to maintain when you kick up the fan speeds?


----------



## Sorphius

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ratzofftoya*
> 
> Cool, thanks, that's quite helpful. What are your preferred benchmarks for CPU and GPU? Also, what sorts of temps are you trying to maintain when you kick up the fan speeds?


I run Heaven to stress the GPU and usually favor Aida64 for the CPU. As far as temps go, I shoot to keep the GPUs under 50 and the CPU under 65 while stress testing. I'm curious to see what kinds of temps I can get with my current build once I have it up and running.


----------



## InfoSeeker

If you are running an air-cooled system, you can probably leave the mobo to control your fans.

For a water cooled loop with an aquaero, set up a virtual sensor that reflects the delta between the water and ambient air temperatures.


Then make a curve controller that accelerates the fans as the delta rises (the upper temp should reflect your system's particulars).


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sorphius*
> 
> I haven't used Aquasuite yet so please pardon my ignorance... but when I've used Speedfan in the past to set up curves, there's an option to tie the curve to multiple values, and within that menu to link it to either the MAX value, or the SUM of the values.
> 
> I've gotten around that problem in Speedfan by tying my CPU fans, for example, to the SUM of the four core temps. So while one of my four cores may be 60C compared to 40C on the others, the value that the curve is linked to only rises by 10% instead of 50%... if that makes sense.


You can do something similar by creating virtual sensors in aquasuite that determine for example the average, or lowest of multiple sources. Then use that virtual sensor value to apply to the curve controller.

It's useful when using the Aquaero to remember that the fans being controlled are actually cooling the coolant rather than the cores themselves directly. Coolant changes temp slowly and adjusting fan speed with every variation of core temp achieves nothing.


----------



## LO3 is Me

Hi guys, a quick question. Can anyone ID the connector from the 6XT board to the display? I have two XTs I've been running as LTs because I was more interested in the space than the display but I'm going to try a ribbon cable to connect the lead XT to a display. Any idea what the designation is on this 12 pin connector?

Thanks!


----------



## GTXJackBauer

Anyone know where I can get these matching black screws for the front black plate I have purchased separately for the AQ 6 XT?


----------



## alstorm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LO3 is Me*
> 
> Hi guys, a quick question. Can anyone ID the connector from the 6XT board to the display? I have two XTs I've been running as LTs because I was more interested in the space than the display but I'm going to try a ribbon cable to connect the lead XT to a display. Any idea what the designation is on this 12 pin connector?
> 
> Thanks!


I recall this question being asked before - maybe on the old thread? If I remember correctly using a ribbon cable (certainly a long one) does not work due to some electrical characteristics of the display - It may be worth searching around the forums for something more definitive on the subject - unless one of the experts or shoggy can confirm
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GTXJackBauer*
> 
> Anyone know where I can get these matching black screws for the front black plate I have purchased separately for the AQ 6 XT?


It depends on where you are based of course - in the UK both E22 and Accuscrews would work to source these, but its worth just searching for "Black countersunk M3" and going with something local - bear in mind this is the sort of part that maybe used in other hobbies like RC cars etc.

I have just done this mod on my AC6 (build log in my sig) and can confirm that anything between 4mm and 8mm screws would work (6mm would be perfect IMO) the 4mm ones I have go in and bite about a turn and a half only.


----------



## MikeMK

Hadn't checked back here for a couple of days and just seen all the posts regarding hysteresis and curves.Some great advice there! I'm gonna try switch it to a delta curve set up between an air and water sensor as infoseeker recommended.

OT - not been a member of this forum for that long, but have to say I think OCN is one of the most helpful forums around atm!


----------



## rolldog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> I got the hunch he is talking about Phanteks fans? You might be able to connect to the led port on the aquaero. Here is a post relevant for you rolldog:
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1423333/aquacomputer-aquaero-6/1570


So, after getting my Caselabs TH10A reversal kit in, taking everything apart, and getting everything back in, I'm not looking into controlling these LEDs on my Bitfenix Spectre PWM LED fans. From what I've gathered, some from their website some common sense, to run the LEDs 24/7, a jumper is applied, which means that the LEDs probably get their power from the PWM connector. Installing the jumper allows the current to flow through, lighting the LED. I got this of their website :

"2) The 2 pin cable has an attached cable loop. This cable is to turn on/off your LED's at your convenience. Do not plug it into a power source as there will be an electrical short and will burn your fan and cables. You can also attach this loop to our Hydra Pro fan controller for on-the-fly LED on/off."

This makes me think their Hydra Pro fan controller doesn't do anything except complete the circuit for the LED. So, do you think if I hooked all the 2 pin LED extensions into a hub, and then ran a 2 pin connector to a basic switch, it should power all the LEDs. Plugging them into an Aquaero would be a bad idea.

I also got an RGB LED strip for my Farbwerk. The first 2 orders were cancelled by the seller, but I finally got a strip. Bad thing is (I believe we've covered this once a month or so ago), but my RGB LED strip pinout is +12V, G, R, B instead of the pinout needed for the Farbwerk, which is +12V, B, R, G. Didn't someone say the green and the blue lines can be switched and then the Farbwerk will be able to produce accurate colors? I have some of the cheap no-solder connectors, but I also have other cables that will allow me to solder the blue line to the green and vise versa, so on the 4 pin header the wiring will match up with the wiring on the Farbwerk. Will this work or do I need to order another set of RGB LED strips with the correct wiring?


----------



## Sorphius

I'm trying to finalize what I hope will be my final order for my current build and want to try to gain some clarity on the Aquaero and various addons before I either over-order or under-order various accessories.

I have already purchased an *Aquaero 6 Pro* with passive heatsink, so that is set. What I'm trying to work out now is just how much else I need to purchase in order to use the Aquasuite software to control my pumps, LEDs, and fans.

So if someone would humor me, I have a few questions:

I would prefer to completely hide the Aquaero either behind or underneath the main compartment in order to preserve the "clean" front panel. I've seen people say you can just remove the LED display and use the Aquaero 6 Pro like a 5LT... to do that, do I need any special mounting hardware? Or will adhesive velcro strips work?
Pumps. I bought the EK Revo Dual D5 PWM setup. I've seen a lot of posts saying that the Aquaero's pump header can only fully control Aquacomputer D5 PWM pumps. Is this true? And if so, will swapping the EK pumps out for a pair of these fix the problem? In either case, will a simple PWM Y-splitter suffice to control both pumps off the header (they're serial so will run at matching speeds).
Is this flow rate sensor compatible with the Aquaero 6? If not, can you point me to one that is?
For LED control, I know the Aquaero 6 has a singly RGB LED header. I'm assuming that it will only power a single strip, so I'm planning to get a Farbwerk to run the four strips I'm planning to use (top, bottom, front, back). Is this a correct assumption?
I'm going to use a mix of 3-pin and 4-pin fans. Will daisychaining splitters off the four fan headers suffice to power them (provided I don't go over the 30W/channel maximum)? Or should I get PCB splitters? Or does it really matter?
Thanks in advance...

*Edit: forgot the flow rate sensor question


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sorphius*
> 
> I'm trying to finalize what I hope will be my final order for my current build and want to try to gain some clarity on the Aquaero and various addons before I either over-order or under-order various accessories.
> 
> I have already purchased an *Aquaero 6 Pro* with passive heatsink, so that is set. What I'm trying to work out now is just how much else I need to purchase in order to use the Aquasuite software to control my pumps, LEDs, and fans.
> 
> So if someone would humor me, I have a few questions:
> 
> I would prefer to completely hide the Aquaero either behind or underneath the main compartment in order to preserve the "clean" front panel. I've seen people say you can just remove the LED display and use the Aquaero 6 Pro like a 5LT... to do that, do I need any special mounting hardware? Or will adhesive velcro strips work?
> Pumps. I bought the EK Revo Dual D5 PWM setup. I've seen a lot of posts saying that the Aquaero's pump header can only fully control Aquacomputer D5 PWM pumps. Is this true? And if so, will swapping the EK pumps out for a pair of these fix the problem? In either case, will a simple PWM Y-splitter suffice to control both pumps off the header (they're serial so will run at matching speeds).
> Is this flow rate sensor compatible with the Aquaero 6? If not, can you point me to one that is?
> For LED control, I know the Aquaero 6 has a singly RGB LED header. I'm assuming that it will only power a single strip, so I'm planning to get a Farbwerk to run the four strips I'm planning to use (top, bottom, front, back). Is this a correct assumption?
> I'm going to use a mix of 3-pin and 4-pin fans. Will daisychaining splitters off the four fan headers suffice to power them (provided I don't go over the 30W/channel maximum)? Or should I get PCB splitters? Or does it really matter?
> Thanks in advance...
> 
> *Edit: forgot the flow rate sensor question


1 you can or you can leave it on. Your choice.
2 you can still use them check the first or second post of this thread for the diva mod (on mobile can't link it sorry )
3 yes
4 no you can not use the rgb port for a rgb strip. It is for a led.

You will need Farbwerk
5 you can't mix fans on the same channel bit you can on different channel ( Chan 1 and 2 pwm 3 and 4 voltage ) you generally will be fine


----------



## ruffhi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sorphius*
> 
> I'm trying to finalize what I hope will be my final order for my current build and want to try to gain some clarity on the Aquaero and various addons before I either over-order or under-order various accessories.


It would appear your setup will be an almost duplicate of what I am planning. Firstly, I haven't used any of this hardware yet, but I have done lots of reading and research ... so take these comments in light of that.


I too am planning on putting my Aquaero 6 in the body of the build. I was planning on using the same approach I used for my fan controller in my NAS - basically a short flex-bay bracket secured to the bottom of the case with my fan controller / Aquaero at a slight angle. See this post for further details.



I was looking at that pump header combo too ... but having to swap out the pumps seems like too much hard work. I will try to order the header sans pump when I get to the purchasing stage of my build

See mega's response. However, as I understand it, this is a mechanical flow meter and and can be thrown off (more than others) by loop layout. I was going to go with one of these.

No idea. I am unsure what I am doing re LEDs (if anything) I shall watch your build with interest









I was planning on all PWM fans with these to provide the power (from the PSU) and the PWM signal (from the Aquaero).


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ruffhi*
> 
> It would appear your setup will be an almost duplicate of what I am planning. Firstly, I haven't used any of this hardware yet, but I have done lots of reading and research ... so take these comments in light of that.
> 
> 
> I too am planning on putting my Aquaero 6 in the body of the build. I was planning on using the same approach I used for my fan controller in my NAS - basically a short flex-bay bracket secured to the bottom of the case with my fan controller / Aquaero at a slight angle. See this post for further details.
> 
> I was looking at that pump header combo too ... but having to swap out the pumps seems like too much hard work. I will try to order the header sans pump when I get to the purchasing stage of my build
> 
> See mega's response. However, as I understand it, this is a mechanical flow meter and and can be thrown off (more than others) by loop layout. I was going to go with one of these.
> 
> No idea. I am unsure what I am doing re LEDs (if anything) I shall watch your build with interest
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I was planning on all PWM fans with these to provide the power (from the PSU) and the PWM signal (from the Aquaero).


You just got the flow meter details backwards. The Highflow re mechanical and the MPS models are pressure sensor based with no moving parts. The Highflow are best for beginners and take no setup to be accurate. The MPS models are superior but need proper calibration with another flow meter to be accurate.

It is certainly possible to use powered splitters on the 4 Aq channels but I prefer to use simpler unpowered splitter boards because it allows better control. The fans can then be fully stopped instead of just running at full speed if the Aq is set to zero %, The Aq can power many fans itself without any problems and the wiring is neater.
The unpowered modmytoys PWM splitters are also great to use as Aquabus splitters.

For powered splitters I much prefer the Silverstone over any others and especially over the powered modmytoys ones. The modmytoys are much larger than they appear and take up a lot of space, the silverstone is less than third the size while till having flat headers instead of sticking up like others that can make wiring awkward.


----------



## ratzofftoya

Hi there! Thanks for the help so far! Now that I finally have my computer up and running and installed Aquasuite, I have a questions.

1.)I have two fan banks, each connected to a Swiftech PWM splitter. (The first one only has four fans, but one is definitely connected to the "red" 4-pin on the Swiftech). The splitters are powered by molex and connected to PWM fan connectors 1 and 2 on the Aquaero. At first, I saw both banks. I then created a curve for the GPU fan bank (the one with 8 fans). That worked well, although I'm not presently sure how reactive the curve is. Anyway, as soon as I did that, the other fan bank disappeared. When I go to the "fans" section in Aquasuite, it doesn't show up--only fan banks 2 (the one that I renamed and made the curve for), 3, and 4 do. 1 isn't even there. When I look on the Aquaero unit, it shows 4 fan banks, but each one of them except for the GPU loop (the one for which I created the control curve) show 0 RPM. What gives?

2.)I have 4 MPS devices--2 pumps and 2 flow meters. Each is connected to USB and to Aquabus. When I go into aquasuite, it shows 4 MPS devices, two labeled as pumps by default, and 2 as flow meters. However, when I go to the "pumps" section, it's empty. Also, it looks like only one of the flow meters is reporting under sensors, though both showed up there. Also, when I go to "all aquabus connected devices," only the farbwerk (see below) is shown. How can I make it so that these devices show up in the aquero and no longer have to be plugged in via usb?

3.)I can't seem to take control of the Farbwerk. When I create an output for the farbwerk 1 and 2 channels under "controls," they just keep cycling random colors. Please help. Thanks!


----------



## Barefooter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rolldog*
> 
> So, after getting my Caselabs TH10A reversal kit in, taking everything apart, and getting everything back in, I'm not looking into controlling these LEDs on my Bitfenix Spectre PWM LED fans. From what I've gathered, some from their website some common sense, to run the LEDs 24/7, a jumper is applied, which means that the LEDs probably get their power from the PWM connector. Installing the jumper allows the current to flow through, lighting the LED. I got this of their website :
> 
> "2) The 2 pin cable has an attached cable loop. This cable is to turn on/off your LED's at your convenience. Do not plug it into a power source as there will be an electrical short and will burn your fan and cables. You can also attach this loop to our Hydra Pro fan controller for on-the-fly LED on/off."
> 
> This makes me think their Hydra Pro fan controller doesn't do anything except complete the circuit for the LED. So, do you think if I hooked all the 2 pin LED extensions into a hub, and then ran a 2 pin connector to a basic switch, it should power all the LEDs. Plugging them into an Aquaero would be a bad idea.
> 
> I also got an RGB LED strip for my Farbwerk. The first 2 orders were cancelled by the seller, but I finally got a strip. Bad thing is (I believe we've covered this once a month or so ago), but *my RGB LED strip pinout is +12V, G, R, B instead of the pinout needed for the Farbwerk, which is +12V, B, R, G. Didn't someone say the green and the blue lines can be switched and then the Farbwerk will be able to produce accurate colors? I have some of the cheap no-solder connectors, but I also have other cables that will allow me to solder the blue line to the green and vise versa, so on the 4 pin header the wiring will match up with the wiring on the Farbwerk. Will this work or do I need to order another set of RGB LED strips with the correct wiring?*


Yes I need to know this as well. I bought some of the cables that plug directly into the Farbwerk, but I want to cut the end off and solder them up to some dark side RGB strips.


----------



## apw63

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ratzofftoya*
> 
> Hi there! Thanks for the help so far! Now that I finally have my computer up and running and installed Aquasuite, I have a questions.
> 
> 1.)I have two fan banks, each connected to a Swiftech PWM splitter. (The first one only has four fans, but one is definitely connected to the "red" 4-pin on the Swiftech). The splitters are powered by molex and connected to PWM fan connectors 1 and 2 on the Aquaero. At first, I saw both banks. I then created a curve for the GPU fan bank (the one with 8 fans). That worked well, although I'm not presently sure how reactive the curve is. Anyway, as soon as I did that, the other fan bank disappeared. When I go to the "fans" section in Aquasuite, it doesn't show up--only fan banks 2 (the one that I renamed and made the curve for), 3, and 4 do. 1 isn't even there. When I look on the Aquaero unit, it shows 4 fan banks, but each one of them except for the GPU loop (the one for which I created the control curve) show 0 RPM. What gives?
> 
> 2.)I have 4 MPS devices--2 pumps and 2 flow meters. Each is connected to USB and to Aquabus. When I go into aquasuite, it shows 4 MPS devices, two labeled as pumps by default, and 2 as flow meters. However, when I go to the "pumps" section, it's empty. Also, it looks like only one of the flow meters is reporting under sensors, though both showed up there. Also, when I go to "all aquabus connected devices," only the farbwerk (see below) is shown. How can I make it so that these devices show up in the aquero and no longer have to be plugged in via usb?
> 
> 3.)I can't seem to take control of the Farbwerk. When I create an output for the farbwerk 1 and 2 channels under "controls," they just keep cycling random colors. Please help. Thanks!


For question #1. When this has happened to me, it has been either a loose wire on a fan or splitter. All my fans on that bank had stopped working. Are your fans on that bank spinning?

For question #2. Does each MPS device has a separate address 12, 13, or 14. Are the MPS devices set to aquabus control in aquasuite?

I do not have a Farbwerk so no help


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ratzofftoya*
> 
> Hi there! Thanks for the help so far! Now that I finally have my computer up and running and installed Aquasuite, I have a questions.
> 
> 1.)I have two fan banks, each connected to a Swiftech PWM splitter. (The first one only has four fans, but one is definitely connected to the "red" 4-pin on the Swiftech). The splitters are powered by molex and connected to PWM fan connectors 1 and 2 on the Aquaero. At first, I saw both banks. I then created a curve for the GPU fan bank (the one with 8 fans). That worked well, although I'm not presently sure how reactive the curve is. Anyway, as soon as I did that, the other fan bank disappeared. When I go to the "fans" section in Aquasuite, it doesn't show up--only fan banks 2 (the one that I renamed and made the curve for), 3, and 4 do. 1 isn't even there. When I look on the Aquaero unit, it shows 4 fan banks, but each one of them except for the GPU loop (the one for which I created the control curve) show 0 RPM. What gives?
> 
> 2.)I have 4 MPS devices--2 pumps and 2 flow meters. Each is connected to USB and to Aquabus. When I go into aquasuite, it shows 4 MPS devices, two labeled as pumps by default, and 2 as flow meters. However, when I go to the "pumps" section, it's empty. Also, it looks like only one of the flow meters is reporting under sensors, though both showed up there. Also, when I go to "all aquabus connected devices," only the farbwerk (see below) is shown. How can I make it so that these devices show up in the aquero and no longer have to be plugged in via usb?
> !


Aquabus can be tricky to initilise. You need to remove power from everything and restart. The Aquaero only adds new Aquabus on cold boot. When they all show up under currently connected you will know its done. It my take a couple goes.

For the fans it sounds like connection checking time.


----------



## ratzofftoya

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *apw63*
> 
> For question #1. When this has happened to me, it has been either a loose wire on a fan or splitter. All my fans on that bank had stopped working. Are your fans on that bank spinning?
> 
> For question #2. Does each MPS device has a separate address 12, 13, or 14. Are the MPS devices set to aquabus control in aquasuite?
> 
> I do not have a Farbwerk so no help


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> Aquabus can be tricky to initilise. You need to remove power from everything and restart. The Aquaero only adds new Aquabus on cold boot. When they all show up under currently connected you will know its done. It my take a couple goes.
> 
> For the fans it sounds like connection checking time.


Thanks for the advice regarding Aquabus. Yes, they each have different addresses, and yes, I set them all to "Aquabus priority." By "remove power from everything," do you mean unplug the PSU and all that?

Regarding the splitter, the fans are spinning totally fine--but they would be even if they weren't connected to the Aquaero at all, since they're all getting MOLEX power.


----------



## apw63

Ok PSU powered, how about the tac or the PWM wire?

Jacksonfire is referring to pulling the main power to the PSU. Totally power down the main system. If you have a switch on the back of your PSU flip it and wait a 30 sec for total power down.


----------



## ratzofftoya

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *apw63*
> 
> Ok PSU powered, how about the tac or the PWM wire?


Yep, PWM wire is connected...Guess I could try a different one.


----------



## GTXJackBauer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alstorm*
> 
> I have just done this mod on my AC6 (build log in my sig) and can confirm that anything between 4mm and 8mm screws would work (6mm would be perfect IMO) the 4mm ones I have go in and bite about a turn and a half only.


Thank you for this. I just ordered 8 E22 Black M3 x 8mm Countersunk Screws from PCS since the 6mm were out of stock as they seem to have the same look as the original ones which I aiming for. Hope the 8mms aren't too long if 6 fits perfectly.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rolldog*
> 
> I also got an RGB LED strip for my Farbwerk. The first 2 orders were cancelled by the seller, but I finally got a strip. Bad thing is (I believe we've covered this once a month or so ago), but my RGB LED strip pinout is +12V, G, R, B instead of the pinout needed for the Farbwerk, which is +12V, B, R, G. Didn't someone say the green and the blue lines can be switched and then the Farbwerk will be able to produce accurate colors? I have some of the cheap no-solder connectors, but I also have other cables that will allow me to solder the blue line to the green and vise versa, so on the 4 pin header the wiring will match up with the wiring on the Farbwerk. Will this work or do I need to order another set of RGB LED strips with the correct wiring?


AFAIK and since reading up the posts in the OCN Farbwerk thread and talking to Aqua in Germany over the phone, they advise on purchasing Aquacomputer RGB strips and solderless connectors because there have been issues in the past. Not all cables and strips come with the same combination. If you don't want to run into issues, I'd suggest making sure its all aqua certified.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ratzofftoya*
> 
> Hi there! Thanks for the help so far! Now that I finally have my computer up and running and installed Aquasuite, I have a questions.
> 
> 1.)I have two fan banks, each connected to a Swiftech PWM splitter. (The first one only has four fans, but one is definitely connected to the "red" 4-pin on the Swiftech). The splitters are powered by molex and connected to PWM fan connectors 1 and 2 on the Aquaero. At first, I saw both banks. I then created a curve for the GPU fan bank (the one with 8 fans). That worked well, although I'm not presently sure how reactive the curve is. Anyway, as soon as I did that, the other fan bank disappeared. When I go to the "fans" section in Aquasuite, it doesn't show up--only fan banks 2 (the one that I renamed and made the curve for), 3, and 4 do. 1 isn't even there. When I look on the Aquaero unit, it shows 4 fan banks, but each one of them except for the GPU loop (the one for which I created the control curve) show 0 RPM. What gives?
> 
> 2.)I have 4 MPS devices--2 pumps and 2 flow meters. Each is connected to USB and to Aquabus. When I go into aquasuite, it shows 4 MPS devices, two labeled as pumps by default, and 2 as flow meters. However, when I go to the "pumps" section, it's empty. Also, it looks like only one of the flow meters is reporting under sensors, though both showed up there. Also, when I go to "all aquabus connected devices," only the farbwerk (see below) is shown. How can I make it so that these devices show up in the aquero and no longer have to be plugged in via usb?
> 
> 3.)I can't seem to take control of the Farbwerk. When I create an output for the farbwerk 1 and 2 channels under "controls," they just keep cycling random colors. Please help. Thanks!


1. You might lose control of the fans because if you split the PWM signal too much, you will weaken it. I believe I have done that to one of my PWM splitters on my 2nd CPU fan header on my MB. I'm plugging straight to the AQ6. Keep it short and simple as best as you can.

2. You need to specify a specific address for each controller connected to the aquabus whether it be pumps or farbwerk, AFAIK and have been told by AQ reps. Think of it as a IP address for each computer. That was one metaphor used to better explain it.

3. Read answer #2


----------



## rolldog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> I got the hunch he is talking about Phanteks fans? You might be able to connect to the led port on the aquaero. Here is a post relevant for you rolldog:
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1423333/aquacomputer-aquaero-6/1570


So, I sill haven't had much time to look into controlling my fan LEDs since I decided to order the reverse chassis upgrade, disassemble, and then reassemble everything. Now I've finally got some rads installed, some fans, some wire sleeving, etc, so I thought I would come back to this post since not knowing if I can control the LEDs on these Bitfenix Spectre PWM LED fans or not makes a big difference on how I'm going to run the cables.

I talked to a couple of other people, but they work for the retail distributors, not someone who's advice I would confide in 100%. After researching this a little more, it seems like the LEDs on the fans get their power from the PWM signal, also on the fan. Hence, attaching a jumper between the 2 wires run the LEDs full time. Then I ran across this on the Bitfenix website:
"2) The 2 pin cable has an attached cable loop. This cable is to turn on/off your LED's at your convenience. Do not plug it into a power source as there will be an electrical short and will burn your fan and cables. You can also attach this loop to our Hydra Pro fan controller for on-the-fly LED on/off."
So, according to this info, it sounds like if all the 2 pin power connectors for the LEDs were run to a non-powered hub, and then a 2 pin connector is run to a basic switch, just to complete the circuit, then controlling these LEDs shouldn't be a problem, but definitely not control them via the Aquaero. Am I reading this correctly?

Also, I finally got a 5M roll of RGB LEDs to use with my Farbwerk, after 2 orders being cancelled without prior notice.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GTXJackBauer*
> 
> Thank you for this. I just ordered 8 E22 Black M3 x 8mm Countersunk Screws from PCS since the 6mm were out of stock as they seem to have the same look as the original ones which I aiming for. Hope the 8mms aren't too long if 6 fits perfectly.
> AFAIK and since reading up the posts in the OCN Farbwerk thread and talking to Aqua in Germany over the phone, they advise on purchasing Aquacomputer RGB strips and solderless connectors because there have been issues in the past. Not all cables and strips come with the same combination. If you don't want to run into issues, I'd suggest making sure its all aqua certified.


Thanks for the info. I didn't realize the Farbwerk had its own thread. Regarding the M3 x 8mm screws, I've run into this a few times on my build since the newer EK rads now take 6/32 screws instead of M3s. All of my rads have 25mm fans on them, but some have fan grills and some also have to go through the case. So, I ordered 1.25" or 35mm length screws and then used my dremel to cut some length off, depending on where they were going.

Regarding the Farbwerk, I mentioned that in an earlier post about having to use the Aqua RGB lights because it makes more business sense for them to make them this way. I've ordered these RGB LED strips in the past, and some have the same pinout an the Farbwerk, or common anode, and some arrive and they're common cathode, so buying a 3rd party strip is just luck if you get the ones that work. None of the 8000 people who sell these now tell you what the pinout is. The ones I just received had the same pinout when you zoom into the pic, but when they arrive, they're different.

One thing I did notice though is most RGB LED strips come with a white transformer, which has an IR receiver if they're remote control, which most are, but on the top of the box it shows the pinout. I have a couple different ones from strips I've bought in the past. I hooked my LED strip up to one, hooked it into the AC/DC converter I have, pressed a color on the remote, and got a different color. I saw where one of the boxes I have had the same pinout on top of the box as the Farbwerk. I plugged in the strip, pressed a color, and everything worked exactly how it should. This makes me wonder if they'll work, but I'd rather figure this out before I start mounting strips inside my case. Best way to be certain, I guess, would be to order the Aqua strips.


----------



## ratzofftoya

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GTXJackBauer*
> 
> 1. You might lose control of the fans because if you split the PWM signal too much, you will weaken it. I believe I have done that to one of my PWM splitters on my 2nd CPU fan header on my MB. I'm plugging straight to the AQ6. Keep it short and simple as best as you can.
> 
> 2. You need to specify a specific address for each controller connected to the aquabus whether it be pumps or farbwerk, AFAIK and have been told by AQ reps. Think of it as a IP address for each computer. That was one metaphor used to better explain it.
> 
> 3. Read answer #2


It's only split to four fans...Plus I'm not sure why then it would have it at first, then lose it.

As for the Aquabus address, yes I went into the settings for each MPS device, made sure each was set to a different number, and set controlling to Aquabus preference. Still nothing. As for the Farbwerk, as I mentioned, that DOES show up as an Aquabus device.


----------



## wa3pnt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rolldog*
> 
> So, according to this info, it sounds like if all the 2 pin power connectors for the LEDs were run to a non-powered hub, and then a 2 pin connector is run to a basic switch, just to complete the circuit, then controlling these LEDs shouldn't be a problem, but definitely not control them via the Aquaero. Am I reading this correctly?


Look at page 12 of the Aquaero Manual.

There is a Relay in the Aquaero that can handle up to 1A on the contacts.

Both Normally Open and Normally Closed contacts are available.

You could use this relay to control your LEDs with the Aquaero.

RodeoGeorge


----------



## NE0XY

Does anyone know how well the Thermaltake "RIing 14 LED RGB 256 Colors High Static Pressure LED Radiator Fan" work with the aquaero?

I'm asking because in order to control the LED ring the fans needs to be connected to one of their controller things, which in turn would be connected to mobo or in my case, an Aquaero.
I'm assuming that this should work?
I just like to be certain before I buy something =P

Thanks

Edit: Link to product: http://www.thermaltakeusa.com/Cooler/Case_Fan_/Riing/C_00002742/Riing_14_LED_RGB_256_Colors_Fan_Single_Fan_Pack_/Design.htm


----------



## electro2u

Friends don't let friends Thermaltake.


----------



## toolmaker03

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> Friends don't let friends Thermaltake.


+1

please do not get anything thermaltake


----------



## NE0XY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> Friends don't let friends Thermaltake.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *toolmaker03*
> 
> +1
> 
> please do not get anything thermaltake


I know I know, I dislike most of their very similar design to other companies's but I do like the fans =P And also the P5 case, which is totally their own as far as I know.


----------



## electro2u

From a purely dispassionate point of view, as James Hunt would say--the fan design is patented and if you like it you will probably have to use it or do without. The controller appears to be standalone and just receives power from a fan connection so there should be no issues as far as connectivity. The drawback of course is that the controller appears to be pretty limited in terms of utility.

I would go farbwerk for RGB/aquaero control and skip the lights inside the fans because it has become or always was tacky (in my dispassionate opinion).


----------



## ratzofftoya

So, I've fixed my fan control issue. Not sure how, but I plugged a different fan from the same bank into the "red" 4-pin connection of the swiftech splitter, and now all the fans work and seem to be responsive to the Aquaero.

Still have no idea how to control the Farbwerks, though. Would really appreciate some help on that...


----------



## InfoSeeker

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ratzofftoya*
> 
> So, I've fixed my fan control issue. Not sure how, but I plugged a different fan from the same bank into the "red" 4-pin connection of the swiftech splitter, and now all the fans work and seem to be responsive to the Aquaero.
> 
> Still have no idea how to control the Farbwerks, though. Would really appreciate some help on that...


Have you viewed the introductory video? It has some hints in it.


----------



## rolldog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Barefooter*
> 
> [/B]
> 
> Yes I need to know this as well. I bought some of the cables that plug directly into the Farbwerk, but I want to cut the end off and solder them up to some dark side RGB strips.


I too have some of the Darkside RGB LED strips that I got from Daz a couple years ago when they first came out. At the time, only 1 strip could be connected to the controller box. The 3 to 1 splitters weren't available yet, and I really didn't want to try hiding 3 of those white boxes in my case. So, I used a PWM fan splitter, cut the notch off the bottom for a clean connection, and after that they worked great.

Since I can't get a definite answer regarding 2 of the color ground wires being switched, I guess the only way to find out is to plug them in myself and see what happens. I've seen some people who bought the Supernight RGB LED strips off Amazon (the ones that return a thousand different types when searching for RGB LED strips) and they worked fine with the Farbwerk. My problem is, I'd like to make sure the RGB LED strips are working perfectly with the Farbwerk beforehand because I'll have some lighting between my MB and the MB tray, and I'll also have some inside an infinity mirror mounted to the chassis divider inside my case with 2 x reservoirs mounted to it. It'll be easier to find out if they're working before installing them, but if they don't, I guess I could use an extension cable for the LEDs and swap the wires in it.


----------



## Barefooter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rolldog*
> 
> I too have some of the Darkside RGB LED strips that I got from Daz a couple years ago when they first came out. At the time, only 1 strip could be connected to the controller box. The 3 to 1 splitters weren't available yet, and I really didn't want to try hiding 3 of those white boxes in my case. So, I used a PWM fan splitter, cut the notch off the bottom for a clean connection, and after that they worked great.
> 
> Since I can't get a definite answer regarding 2 of the color ground wires being switched, I guess the only way to find out is to plug them in myself and see what happens. I've seen some people who bought the Supernight RGB LED strips off Amazon (the ones that return a thousand different types when searching for RGB LED strips) and they worked fine with the Farbwerk. My problem is, I'd like to make sure the RGB LED strips are working perfectly with the Farbwerk beforehand because I'll have some lighting between my MB and the MB tray, and I'll also have some inside an infinity mirror mounted to the chassis divider inside my case with 2 x reservoirs mounted to it. It'll be easier to find out if they're working before installing them, but if they don't, I guess I could use an extension cable for the LEDs and swap the wires in it.


Yes I'm getting ready to tear my rig apart for some upgrades and want to put a few RGB strips up top. Please post back when you get the wiring order figured out.


----------



## jsutter71

I have a quest regarding the Flow sensor "high flow" G1/4 for aquaero, aquastream XT ultra and poweradjust. I have seen a lot of people complaining that this sensor makes a loud ticking noise. I have one of these sensors that I was about to use i'm my loop but I won't if it's to noisy. I would appreciate feedback from people who have been using this sensor.
Thank you


----------



## dng25

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jsutter71*
> 
> I have a quest regarding the Flow sensor "high flow" G1/4 for aquaero, aquastream XT ultra and poweradjust. I have seen a lot of people complaining that this sensor makes a loud ticking noise. I have one of these sensors that I was about to use i'm my loop but I won't if it's to noisy. I would appreciate feedback from people who have been using this sensor.
> Thank you


I believe this flow sensor have no mechanical moving parts which will reduce the noise.

http://www.performance-pcs.com/aquacomputer-flow-rate-sensor-mps-flow-400-g1-4.html


----------



## jsutter71

I was just looking at that one. To bad I purchased the other one 3 months ago so I can't return it.


----------



## Costas

Just give it a try.... Some are quiet and some rattle.

At relatively high flowrates such as 400 LPH mine ticks a fair amount but at lower flowrates such as around 225 LPH it is totally silent.


----------



## electro2u

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jsutter71*
> 
> I was just looking at that one. To bad I purchased the other one 3 months ago so I can't return it.


test it first by setting up a small loop outside the case.

give you a chance to make sure the pump and reservoir work ok anyways.

you can fix a ticking high flow sensor with a hammer and nail, iirc.


----------



## jsutter71

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> test it first by setting up a small loop outside the case.
> 
> give you a chance to make sure the pump and reservoir work ok anyways.
> 
> you can fix a ticking high flow sensor with a hammer and nail, iirc.


Hammer and nail?


----------



## Mega Man

Or with this









Cause









Fixes all


----------



## electro2u

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jsutter71*
> 
> Hammer and nail?


I don't remember how Shoggy said to do it. You have to open up the housing and smack the impeller or something.


----------



## hk47

My experience with this sensor is the same as Costas -- it ticks quite a bit at high flow rates, but I can barely hear it at 200 L/h. Just bought it from modmymods a month ago.


----------



## Barefooter

I'm getting ready to do a Diva Mod on my new EK PWN pump.

Should I solder the diode and resistor to the terminals? Or just stick the pins down into the connector?

@IT Diva what should I do?


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Barefooter*
> 
> I'm getting ready to do a Diva Mod on my new EK PWN pump.
> 
> Should I solder the diode and resistor to the terminals? Or just stick the pins down into the connector?
> 
> @IT Diva what should I do?


You really need to do it the right way that guarantees reliable contact, . . . . you can potentially damage the pump's control circuitry if it gets 12V instead of 5V on the PWM line.

If the Zener diode doesn't connect to the first pin (#1) which is Gnd, you'll have 12V instead of 5V going to the PWM pin.

You'll want to get some new pins to use for the pump's 4 pin fan connector:

http://www.performance-pcs.com/fan-power-connector-pins-female-set-of-3.html

Solder the 560 ohm resistor and 5.1V Zener diode to 2 new pins.

You can solder the second resistor, the 2.2K to 4.7K one, either to the PWM wire already crimped in a pin, or cut that pin off and put the wire and the second resistor in a new pin.

If you go with cutting the PWM wire's pin off to attach a new one with the resistor, cut the tach wire's pin off as well and put on a new one. . . . Reason being that you want to keep the wires at the same length so there's no extra stress on one that's shorter.

Darlene


----------



## Barefooter

Wonderful detailed explanation Diva! Thank you!


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Barefooter*
> 
> Wonderful detailed explanation Diva! Thank you!


No problemo


----------



## Nichismo

Guys, I think I fried my Aquaero 6 ...... really bummed out.

Somehow I accidently plugged in my 3 way spllitter PCB to the LED header as I plan to just run the fans at 100% all the time.... but I unknowingly plugged in the connector incorrectly (1 pin too far over) and upon starting up my rig, a little bit of smoke came off the Aquaero from that area.... so I immediately shut off the system.

And well the Aquaero screen isnt coming on, if I have fans plugged into it, they spin at 100% when molex is powered, but thats it.......

is that pretty much it?


----------



## Mega Man

that sucks - very possible you did ; ; i have done it once too.... mine was the RPM was pluged into the FLOW


----------



## GTXJackBauer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> that sucks - very possible you did ; ; i have done it once too.... mine was the RPM was pluged into the FLOW


Please explain. I'm planning on plugging my Koolance Flow adapter to the Flow Header of the AQ 6 XT. Am I going to create an issue in doing so? Just want to get w/e readings it gives me since my other PWM channels will all be occupied.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GTXJackBauer*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> that sucks - very possible you did ; ; i have done it once too.... mine was the RPM was pluged into the FLOW
> 
> 
> 
> Please explain. I'm planning on plugging my Koolance Flow adapter to the Flow Header of the AQ 6 XT. Am I going to create an issue in doing so? Just want to get w/e readings it gives me since my other PWM channels will all be occupied.
Click to expand...

I would not do that and expect it to work.

The Koolance frequency adapter is designed to plug into a fan position. It outputs a pulse stream so that a normal fan RPM display reads it as milliliters per minute.

If all 4 chans on the A6 are in use, you could use a mobo fan header and with something like HWInfo or Aida64, you might still be able to get the data into Aquasuite


----------



## GTXJackBauer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> I would not do that and expect it to work.
> 
> The Koolance frequency adapter is designed to plug into a fan position. It outputs a pulse stream so that a normal fan RPM display reads it as milliliters per minute.
> 
> If all 4 chans on the A6 are in use, you could use a mobo fan header and with something like HWInfo or Aida64, you might still be able to get the data into Aquasuite


So, the Flow header on the AQ 6 XT doesn't work like a regular fan channel to get your typical reading like a fan? Will either unit get damaged if connected? Regardless, I was hoping to at least combine the koolance flow readings to the AQ6/AQsuite. I'm keeping the adapter and display just under the AQ 6 in my 900D since we're so limited in bay space on such a massive tower. The bottom two slots are taken up by a dual reservoir/pump combo.

Dammit IT Diva, you're a freakin genius. I totally forgot about that. So I can basically take the software sensor, rename it to "flow meter" and add that to my AQsuite. I actually thought about that prior to reading your post but lost my train of thought.

My other question is, since the AQ6 is a standalone unit, any AQSuite software inputs and changes I do will automatically be sync'd to the standalone unit and still have all the data existing in its standalone form or do I need to do changes to both individually? I'm guessing it will sync but I want to be 100% sure.

And my last question for the time being







, I have AQSuite installed atm, latest version and I'm not even seeing any software sensors to it while having HWiNFO64 installed and running in the background. Mind you, I have nothing connected to the software atm. Just wanted to play around and get used to it but I have nothing to do on it. As far as picking a overview page, I see no AQ 6 and only a default AQ5. Not sure if this is a demo thing or not.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *GTXJackBauer*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> that sucks - very possible you did ; ; i have done it once too.... mine was the RPM was pluged into the FLOW
> 
> 
> 
> Please explain. I'm planning on plugging my Koolance Flow adapter to the Flow Header of the AQ 6 XT. Am I going to create an issue in doing so? Just want to get w/e readings it gives me since my other PWM channels will all be occupied.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> I would not do that and expect it to work.
> 
> The Koolance frequency adapter is designed to plug into a fan position. It outputs a pulse stream so that a normal fan RPM display reads it as milliliters per minute.
> 
> If all 4 chans on the A6 are in use, you could use a mobo fan header and with something like HWInfo or Aida64, you might still be able to get the data into Aquasuite
Click to expand...

The wire I wanted to be plugged into "rpm" from mobo cpu header I plugged into the flow port


----------



## GTXJackBauer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> The wire I wanted to be plugged into "rpm" from mobo cpu header I plugged into the flow port


Are you implying that it worked?


----------



## n3cr0n9

I have a quick question.

I'm putting together a water loop for the first time.
I have the Aquaero 6 XT.
I just want to make sure I get the correct d5 pump.
I'm looking at the AC D5 Pump with PWM input and speed signal.
Thanks for any help.


----------



## Archea47

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *n3cr0n9*
> 
> I have a quick question.
> 
> I'm putting together a water loop for the first time.
> I have the Aquaero 6 XT.
> I'd like to use a D5 pump, but do I need to get one specifically from Aqua Computer or will any PWM based D5 Pump work?
> What are the advantages to using one from AC?
> 
> Thanks for any info, I appreciate it very much!


The benefit of using one from AC is that you don't have to order resistors, a diode and do some soldering to make it work properly

Otherwise with other vendors you need the 'Diva Mod." You can find the specifics searching this thread. Here's mine on a PWM splitter to control two EK D5s:


----------



## n3cr0n9

Ah, ok
Thank you for the info.
I have seen this popping up on the forum but wasn't exactly sure what it was applied to, now I know.









Would it be better, in the long run, to order the AC D5 pump with the PWM input and speed signal then?

Thanks again for your help.


----------



## Archea47

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *n3cr0n9*
> 
> Ah, ok
> Thank you for the info.
> I have seen this popping up on the forum but wasn't exactly sure what it was applied to, now I know.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Would it be better, in the long run, to order the AC D5 pump with the PWM input and speed signal then?
> 
> Thanks again for your help.


If the price is ~the same and you want to use it with an Aquaero, absolutely


----------



## n3cr0n9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Archea47*
> 
> If the price is ~the same and you want to use it with an Aquaero, absolutely


Awesome.
Thank you for your help. I appreciate it.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GTXJackBauer*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> The wire I wanted to be plugged into "rpm" from mobo cpu header I plugged into the flow port
> 
> 
> 
> Are you implying that it worked?
Click to expand...

if by worked you mean killed my aquaero, then yes


----------



## Odaik

Not sure if this is the best place to ask, but does anyone know if the Aquaero 5 LT units actually require an input from the 5V line that gets connected to the molex plug on the PCB?

I am trying to build an external water cooling enclosure with the Aquaero unit fixed in it - the only issue I have at the moment is getting power to the whole thing.

It everything (fans, pumps, controller) used 12V DC, it would be pretty simple. However, if I have to worry about getting 5V power to the enclosure as well (which is what molex normally is - 12V and 5V lines), it complicates things. So I'm kind of hoping that maybe the 5V pin on the molex connector on the Aquaero is just a dummy pin that isn't actually soldered to anything on the board.

Any chance anyone from Aquacomputer could confirm?


----------



## Jakusonfire

Custom MPS flow meters anyone?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Odaik*
> 
> Not sure if this is the best place to ask, but does anyone know if the Aquaero 5 LT units actually require an input from the 5V line that gets connected to the molex plug on the PCB?
> 
> I am trying to build an external water cooling enclosure with the Aquaero unit fixed in it - the only issue I have at the moment is getting power to the whole thing.
> 
> It everything (fans, pumps, controller) used 12V DC, it would be pretty simple. However, if I have to worry about getting 5V power to the enclosure as well (which is what molex normally is - 12V and 5V lines), it complicates things. So I'm kind of hoping that maybe the 5V pin on the molex connector on the Aquaero is just a dummy pin that isn't actually soldered to anything on the board.
> 
> Any chance anyone from Aquacomputer could confirm?


It uses all the pins.


----------



## Odaik

Bugger. Thanks for letting me know.









Any idea what kind of current the aquaero unit itself draws as well (ie, without any fans connected)?


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Odaik*
> 
> Not sure if this is the best place to ask, but does anyone know if the Aquaero 5 LT units actually require an input from the 5V line that gets connected to the molex plug on the PCB?
> 
> I am trying to build an external water cooling enclosure with the Aquaero unit fixed in it - the only issue I have at the moment is getting power to the whole thing.
> 
> It everything (fans, pumps, controller) used 12V DC, it would be pretty simple. However, if I have to worry about getting 5V power to the enclosure as well (which is what molex normally is - 12V and 5V lines), it complicates things. So I'm kind of hoping that maybe the 5V pin on the molex connector on the Aquaero is just a dummy pin that isn't actually soldered to anything on the board.
> 
> Any chance anyone from Aquacomputer could confirm?


not alot it does indeed use 5v however


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Odaik*
> 
> Bugger. Thanks for letting me know.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Any idea what kind of current the aquaero unit itself draws as well (ie, without any fans connected)?


Mine uses about 0.02A on the +12V but that is a 6 Pro with screen operating and lit.


----------



## Odaik

Thanks again for your response man.

That's a lot less than I was expecting - any chance you know what the current draw is on the 5V line aswell?

Out of curiosity also, how are you managing to measure that?


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Odaik*
> 
> Thanks again for your response man.
> 
> That's a lot less than I was expecting - any chance you know what the current draw is on the 5V line aswell?
> 
> Out of curiosity also, how are you managing to measure that?


I measured directly with a multimeter a while ago but never did the 5V

Power that it does draw is transferred almost directly to fans


----------



## chas1723

Just ordered an aquaero 6 pro. I will be running a D5 PWM pump, 5 eloop PWMs, 3 phantek 140mm fans that came with my primo case, and a in line temp sensor.

Will this be ok to run on the aquaero?

Sent from my VS986 using Tapatalk


----------



## rolldog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> I would not do that and expect it to work.
> 
> The Koolance frequency adapter is designed to plug into a fan position. It outputs a pulse stream so that a normal fan RPM display reads it as milliliters per minute.
> 
> If all 4 chans on the A6 are in use, you could use a mobo fan header and with something like HWInfo or Aida64, you might still be able to get the data into Aquasuite


Regarding the Koolance Flow Meter, I'm hoping someone can answer this question for me. I has 2 of the Koolance Flow meters in my previous build, along with the flow meter adapter and display, and in this build, I replaced the Koolance Flow meters with the Koolance Flow Meters with the temp sensors (SEN-FM18T10). The new ones, with the temp sensors, have 2 sets of 2 pin wires but none are labeled and no info came with the flow meter. Does anyone use this Koolance Flow Meter with the temp sensor and can tell me which two pin wires are the temp sensor and which are the flow meter? One set of wires has blue heatshrink around the base of the wires, but it doesn't specify if that's the temp sensor or the flow meter. I'm trying the sleeve these wires and would like to know which is which.

I'd really appreciate the advice!


----------



## electro2u

I have one of these also and it's just sitting here because I had the same question and never got around to finding out since I cut the wires before I realized I didn't know which was which and subsequently lost the little connectors. Should be able to test it without hurting anything and see which gives a proper flow reading with the adapter. I have asked their customer service just now and we will see how long it takes them to answer. Their phone went to voicemail.


----------



## rolldog

Let's say I have 1 roll of LED strips to hook up to my Farbwerk. I plug the 4 pin connector in, run it where I want it, and then cut it off in the appropriate place. What kind of connector could I then use to connect the 4 pin header to the Farbwerk and then to the rest of my LED strips? All the ones I can find are either solderless with no 4 pin connectors or just the 4 pin connectors by themselves. What do I need to rig up to use the rest of an LED strip?


----------



## rolldog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> I have one of these also and it's just sitting here because I had the same question and never got around to finding out since I cut the wires before I realized I didn't know which was which and subsequently lost the little connectors. Should be able to test it without hurting anything and see which gives a proper flow reading with the adapter. I have asked their customer service just now and we will see how long it takes them to answer. Their phone went to voicemail.


Cool, please post back once you find out the answer. I'm still sleeving cables, so I'm far from being able to hook it up and test it. I just want to sleeve all 4 wires together and need to know how much room I need between the connectors so I can run the temp sensor to the Aquaero and the flow meter to the Koolance frequency display based on where I plan to install them. I would rather have all 4 of those wires in a white sleeve, which matches the color of my case, instead of trying to hide all of them around the sides and corners of my case.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rolldog*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> I would not do that and expect it to work.
> 
> The Koolance frequency adapter is designed to plug into a fan position. It outputs a pulse stream so that a normal fan RPM display reads it as milliliters per minute.
> 
> If all 4 chans on the A6 are in use, you could use a mobo fan header and with something like HWInfo or Aida64, you might still be able to get the data into Aquasuite
> 
> 
> 
> Regarding the Koolance Flow Meter, I'm hoping someone can answer this question for me. I has 2 of the Koolance Flow meters in my previous build, along with the flow meter adapter and display, and in this build, I replaced the Koolance Flow meters with the Koolance Flow Meters with the temp sensors (SEN-FM18T10). The new ones, with the temp sensors, have 2 sets of 2 pin wires but none are labeled and no info came with the flow meter. Does anyone use this Koolance Flow Meter with the temp sensor and can tell me which two pin wires are the temp sensor and which are the flow meter? One set of wires has blue heatshrink around the base of the wires, but it doesn't specify if that's the temp sensor or the flow meter. I'm trying the sleeve these wires and would like to know which is which.
> 
> I'd really appreciate the advice!
Click to expand...

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> I have one of these also and it's just sitting here because I had the same question and never got around to finding out since I cut the wires before I realized I didn't know which was which and subsequently lost the little connectors. Should be able to test it without hurting anything and see which gives a proper flow reading with the adapter. I have asked their customer service just now and we will see how long it takes them to answer. Their phone went to voicemail.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rolldog*
> 
> Let's say I have 1 roll of LED strips to hook up to my Farbwerk. I plug the 4 pin connector in, run it where I want it, and then cut it off in the appropriate place. What kind of connector could I then use to connect the 4 pin header to the Farbwerk and then to the rest of my LED strips? All the ones I can find are either solderless with no 4 pin connectors or just the 4 pin connectors by themselves. What do I need to rig up to use the rest of an LED strip?


It's really pretty simple . . . .

The Koolance flow meter with the integrated temp sensor has 2 slightly different connector types on each of the wires that come from it.

Also, one wire pair is a slightly lighter wire gage than the other, if you've cut the connectors off already.

The temp sensor has the usual 2 pin flat connector that virtually every other temp sensor for PC use has and is the slightly heavier wire gage pair.

Correction:
The temp sensor is the slightly smaller wire gage pair with blue heatshrink and a white 2 pin connector without a locking clip.

The flow meter output has a similar small white, but locking clip connector that only can plug into the display unit's keyed 2 pin receptacle and a slightly heavier wire gage pair.

If you want to go by the blue heat shrink, it's on the slightly smaller wire gage wire pair, that's the flow meter part.

Correction:
The blue heatshrink, as mentioned above, is on the temp sensor, not the flow meter.

As far as the led strips, if you get the AC pigtails, they have the 4 pin connector that fits the Farby, and the 4 internal conductors are properly color coded.

They also have a connector at the other end that the strip slips into, just be sure to put it on the correct way so that the black is on the 12V marking on the strip, and then the G R B will all fall into place.

(I've found the modmytoys connectors to be miswired on occasion, and no longer use them.)

I'm not a big fan of the solderless connector on the led strips end of the AC cables though, since it's bulky and severely limits how well you can manage your cabling.

If you cut it off and choose to solder the wires directly to the led strip, just use the 12V G R B markings on the strip matched to the wire colors, (black wire is 12V) after checking that the markings on the strip are indeed correct . . . I have seen the G and B marked in the proper order, but reversed electrically on the strip.

I've gone thru a couple rolls of AC led strip, which I've found to be decent and cost effective, and it's marked in the standard order and is electrically correct.

If you need to check your led strip, just get a battery holder for 8 X AA batteries from Radio Shack so you have a quick easy 12V source


----------



## rolldog

Cool! Thanks, as always! I figured you would respond since you have all of the answers.







I bought a AC/DC converter a while back that plugs into the little white transformer box that the LED strips connect to and are controlled by if not in a PC. I have another one, but I rigged it to control 4 fans mounted in my dresser using a push/pull config (intake fans behind lower shelf and outflow fans behind upper shelf) since my dresser has a large square section in the middle of it with a shelf and door that opens and shuts. I cut out a rectangle for 2 x 120mm fan mounts above the shelf and below the shelf so I can hide my DIRECT receiver, DIRECTV Wireless Genie, Sony 4K media player, Nvidia Shield, etc, but now I can keep the door shut without having to worry about everything overheating. The adapter running the fans comes in handy sometimes since it allows me to test other things more easily than making a PSU jumper.

I ordered a couple of small sets of the AC LED strips, and I also have some of the generic strips. My AC strips haven't come in yet, but I was testing to see if some of the LEDs I have work and found one of the white controller box that has the same pinout on the top of it that the Farb has. One strips works well with it, but another gives me different colors. They also have different remotes even though it's the same box. The LED industry needs some sort of standard when making their RGB LED strips. With all the growth the LED industry has seen over the last 5 years, I'm surprised someone hasn't come out with some sort of standard to follow, but since it's not as much money as the entertainment industry and their HDCP 2.2 and HDMI 2.0 standard, I guess it's not really worth anyone's time.

Thanks for the info Diva!


----------



## RDKing2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *n3cr0n9*
> 
> I have a quick question.
> 
> I'm putting together a water loop for the first time.
> I have the Aquaero 6 XT.
> I just want to make sure I get the correct d5 pump.
> I'm looking at the AC D5 Pump with PWM input and speed signal.
> Thanks for any help.


If you are planning to use them with the aquaero 6 get the aquabus version. That way you do not tie up fan channels with the pumps. Granted they are a bit more in cost.


----------



## JasonMorris

Chas1723,
You'll be fine with that number of fans. I have 24, 2 pumps, MPS sensor.


----------



## electro2u

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> It's really pretty simple . . . .
> 
> The Koolance flow meter with the integrated temp sensor has 2 different connector types on each of the wires that come from it.
> 
> Also, one wire pair is a slightly lighter wire gage than the other, if you've cut the connectors off already.
> 
> The temp sensor has the usual 2 pin flat connector that virtually every other temp sensor for PC use has and is the slightly heavier wire gage pair.
> 
> The flow meter output has the same smaller connector that only can plug into the display unit's keyed 2 pin receptacle.
> 
> If you want to go by the blue heat shrink, it's on the slightly smaller wire gage wire pair that's the flow meter part.


Interestingly the response I got from Koolance was:
"The wires with the blue heat shrink are the temperature sensor and the ones without heatshrink are the flow meter."

Guess who I trust? Diva.

I wonder what I did with those connectors.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> It's really pretty simple . . . .
> 
> The Koolance flow meter with the integrated temp sensor has 2 different connector types on each of the wires that come from it.
> 
> Also, one wire pair is a slightly lighter wire gage than the other, if you've cut the connectors off already.
> 
> The temp sensor has the usual 2 pin flat connector that virtually every other temp sensor for PC use has and is the slightly heavier wire gage pair.
> 
> The flow meter output has the same smaller connector that only can plug into the display unit's keyed 2 pin receptacle.
> 
> If you want to go by the blue heat shrink, it's on the slightly smaller wire gage wire pair that's the flow meter part.
> 
> 
> 
> Interestingly the response I got from Koolance was:
> "The wires with the blue heat shrink are the temperature sensor and the ones without heatshrink are the flow meter."
> 
> Guess who I trust? Diva.
> 
> I wonder what I did with those connectors.
Click to expand...

*Thanks for the confidence, . . but trust Koolance on this one.

I just opened another new in box one, and took it out of the plastic wrap, low and behold, Koolance is right . . .*

My bad and many apologies for being tired and not having my high powered glasses on when I looked, and failing to open the plastic baggie and unwind the wires completely.

The blue heatshrink is on the smaller gage wire pair, (as said) and this one has a white 2 pin connector, different from the usual black 2 pin connector you usually see on most temp sensors, But Not the 2 pin connector with a lock clip that fits the frequency adapter/display module.

The slightly heavier wire gage pair has no heatshrink and is indeed the flow meter pair, also with a small white 2 pin connector, but does have the locking clip that fits the freq adapter/display module receptacle.

To actually connect the temp sensor wires to anything other than the very end most set of pins, you'll need to change the little white connector to a more standard flat 2 pin that you usually see on temp sensors.

Shouldn't have hurt anything to connect them backwards, but neither would have worked.

Again, my apologies for getting it backwards









Darlene

+1 for the heads up,

Let me go back and edit the previous post before it causes any confusion.


----------



## electro2u

I'm actually embarrassed. I think I speak for everyone when I say please don't apologize as we're lucky to have your input on things.

If anyone would like one of these Koolance flow meters with the signal adapter (flow signal and temp sensor wire do not come with connectors as I am a klutz--but the cables to the signal adapter I did a pretty good job of sleeving) just let me know and I'll send it out as a Holiday gift in Diva's honor.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> I'm actually embarrassed. I think I speak for everyone when I say please don't apologize as we're lucky to have your input on things.
> 
> If anyone would like one of these Koolance flow meters with the signal adapter (flow signal and temp sensor wire do not come with connectors as I am a klutz--but the cables to the signal adapter I did a pretty good job of sleeving) just let me know and I'll send it out as a Holiday gift in Diva's honor.


You might want to hang onto it for when EK finally releases the Signalkuppe, (the successor to the Ascendacy).

You'll be able to plug it right up without the need of a frequency adapter.

Getting a replacement connector with the standard 0,100" pin spacing is no problem at all.

D.


----------



## Jakusonfire

Some really interesting new Aquaero compatible gear guys.

https://forum.aquacomputer.de/weitere-foren/english-forum/106533-new-aquastream-ultimate/




An Aquastream that is finally fully controllable. If I was into Aquastream pumps I would be all over this for sure. The abilities it has without needing an Aq is impressive. I would really like to see the electronics available without the pump.
Edit: So it looks like an upgrade kit is available for older pumps. I wonder if that could be basically used with other pumps and/or as a sort of upgraded poweradjust. I suspect other pumps probably not given the unique way the AS pumps work. Still, some very interesting gear that opens some new options.
Could it over power my love of D5's?

Will be fascinated to see how the Virtual Flow sensor works exactly and how good a job it does.


----------



## Costas

Looks like a well thought out pump - if you use them independently of an Aquaero etc.

Lots of features etc however they are a relatively large device and you would want to mount it somewhere with the LCD and controls being easily accessible/visible which may limit mounting options.

Looks pretty cool though and I am sure many will put it to good use.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> Could it over power my love of D5's?


Don't throw out your D5's and DDC's as yet.

I gather the pump is based in the Eheim range - I used to use one back in the early 90's for PC water cooling - they are indeed extremely quiet however their output is not in the same league as a D5/DDC for their given footprint.


----------



## toolmaker03

+1 Costas
man you have been doing this a long time, I too have a Eheim pump that I got years ago for a smaller build good pump, quite, but not a D5, I still have it and use it for test builds, I also have like 4 D5 pumps.


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Costas*
> 
> Looks like a well thought out pump - if you use them independently of an Aquaero etc.
> 
> Lots of features etc however they are a relatively large device and you would want to mount it somewhere with the LCD and controls being easily accessible/visible which may limit mounting options.
> 
> Looks pretty cool though and I am sure many will put it to good use.
> Don't throw out your D5's and DDC's as yet.
> 
> I gather the pump is based in the Eheim range - I used to use one back in the early 90's for PC water cooling - they are indeed extremely quiet however their output is not in the same league as a D5/DDC for their given footprint.


Yeah I have one of the the smaller eheim. The XT are just too big for their output for sure.

I'm actually surprised they have updated the XT Ultra seeing as it doesn't seem to make many appearances on these forums any more.

Actually when I see the yellow Ultras now I instantly think of threads on the Aussie forums where people start them like, I'm gonna get all Aquacomp gear cause its the best / German quality etc, then they either ;
get the pumps and they still look big in Caselabs builds so they end up replaced with D5's
or the build log starts strong but just trails off without finishing cause the stuff is pricy and hard to even find.


----------



## Dagamus NM

I like my eheim pumps. I don't have the xt units but rather the compact units at the bottom of the 420mm AMS rad/res/pump system. The most recent one I received came with a little jumper for deaeration. I tried it on my reverse SM8 build to get the air trapped at in the RVE monoblock. In a normal setup the block is designed with the air bubbles to go out the top. When reversed the bubbles stay trapped in the bottom that has been reoriented to be the top.

Too big to flip around and get out bubbles without introducing more to the loop. After several months of just living with the bubbles, two days on deaeration mode and they are all gone. Pump is silent. Temps are good at given flow. When I plumb in the other two rads and d5's flow will go up but so will noise.


----------



## GTXJackBauer

I got my AQ6 XT up and running. Took me almost 3 days, 6 hrs avg. per day. I played with the software for another 3+hrs and got the gist of it.

Its much simpler to use than I thought but only because I've done some extensive research. If I didn't, it'd be a different story.

I will say, I wish we had more effects and that the farbwerk didn't need to be connected to USB so the AQ can communicate and take control of the LEDs.

Another thing would have been nice was a colored OLED screen but meh, I still like it.

Figured out how to add a logo to the screen thanks to some easy explanations on the webs.

My temps 3 air and 2 water temp probes seem to be within margin of error and as they are fairly close to each other so that's a plus.

Overall, I'm very pleased to hear my fans not at full blast and my pumps happy.

Hope there are more tweaks done to the software and added features.


----------



## rolldog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> *Thanks for the confidence, . . but trust Koolance on this one.
> 
> I just opened another new in box one, and took it out of the plastic wrap, low and behold, Koolance is right . . .*
> 
> My bad and many apologies for being tired and not having my high powered glasses on when I looked, and failing to open the plastic baggie and unwind the wires completely.
> 
> The blue heatshrink is on the smaller gage wire pair, (as said) and this one has a white 2 pin connector, different from the usual black 2 pin connector you usually see on most temp sensors, But Not the 2 pin connector with a lock clip that fits the frequency adapter/display module.
> 
> The slightly heavier wire gage pair has no heatshrink and is indeed the flow meter pair, also with a small white 2 pin connector, but does have the locking clip that fits the freq adapter/display module receptacle.
> 
> To actually connect the temp sensor wires to anything other than the very end most set of pins, you'll need to change the little white connector to a more standard flat 2 pin that you usually see on temp sensors.
> 
> Shouldn't have hurt anything to connect them backwards, but neither would have worked.
> 
> Again, my apologies for getting it backwards
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Darlene
> 
> +1 for the heads up,
> 
> Let me go back and edit the previous post before it causes any confusion.


It wasn't until I looked closer that I realized the connectors are different, so I'm sure once I hooked them up I would have figured it out. However, it didn't help when I decided to put all 4 wires into 1 sleeve to make it look cleaner, but when the wires came out the other side of the sleeve, the marker I used to label where each cable went got rubbed off. Now I'm using some of my daughter's small tape rolls. Each roll of tape is different, so I wrap each wire in the colored tape and then wrap them all together in blue painter's tape so I don't have as much nasty adhesive to deal with after removing all of it. I didn't realize how much longer one set of wires is than the other until I shoved those wires through a sleeve like putting a mini skirt on a fat chick.

By the way, I was sleeving the RPM wire from my pump and the pin broke off. It seems like a regular fan pin, but I can't find anywhere to buy some except China. Anyone have any ideas?

And just to get an idea, do most of you running the Aquaero along with all of its sensors, cables, pins, etc, did you take apart all the cables that are used for the Aquaero and sleeve them? I was thinking about doing it for cosmetic reasons, but then I though about waiting until I actually start hooking everything up, see which wires go where, and buy different sized sleeves to fit as many cables as I could into 1 sleeve. Some of my fans are the same way and they look like a total mess, but since I have 3 Swiftech 8 way PWM splitters, I was considering trying to shove them all in a sleeve, or as many as I can. I wish they made a sleeve than opened along the side so I could wrap them up and melt the sleeve back together. This is the last time I decide to do this crap myself.


----------



## rolldog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> You might want to hang onto it for when EK finally releases the Signalkuppe, (the successor to the Ascendacy).
> 
> You'll be able to plug it right up without the need of a frequency adapter.
> 
> Getting a replacement connector with the standard 0,100" pin spacing is no problem at all.
> 
> D.


Seriously? They're coming out with something so I can get rid of my frequency adapters? I haven't heard of this. What else does it monitor and can it be used for more than 1 flow meter?


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rolldog*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> You might want to hang onto it for when EK finally releases the Signalkuppe, (the successor to the Ascendacy).
> 
> You'll be able to plug it right up without the need of a frequency adapter.
> 
> Getting a replacement connector with the standard 0,100" pin spacing is no problem at all.
> 
> D.
> 
> 
> 
> Seriously? They're coming out with something so I can get rid of my frequency adapters? I haven't heard of this. What else does it monitor and can it be used for more than 1 flow meter?
Click to expand...

If it follows on from the Ascendacy, it will be for just 1 flow meter.

The functions usually selected on the adapter for tube size and such will be handled by a user entered calibration factor in the software.

There's been drips and drabs and a few pics posted by the EK reps in a couple threads, with a promise from the EK main guy to do a write up, but so far he hasn't gotten to it.

I'd like to start a thread like this one for it, "EK Signalkuppe, Future Owners Club and Discussion Thread", so all the information can be in one place from the very beginning, instead of starting out as a hardware announcement thread that then eventually morphs or leads to an Owners Club thread, . . . . after already being talked about in a half dozen other threads.

But I'd want an OK from EK before doing that.

D.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> Some really interesting new Aquaero compatible gear guys.
> 
> https://forum.aquacomputer.de/weitere-foren/english-forum/106533-new-aquastream-ultimate/
> 
> 
> 
> 
> An Aquastream that is finally fully controllable. If I was into Aquastream pumps I would be all over this for sure. The abilities it has without needing an Aq is impressive. I would really like to see the electronics available without the pump.
> Edit: So it looks like an upgrade kit is available for older pumps. I wonder if that could be basically used with other pumps and/or as a sort of upgraded poweradjust. I suspect other pumps probably not given the unique way the AS pumps work. Still, some very interesting gear that opens some new options.
> Could it over power my love of D5's?
> 
> Will be fascinated to see how the Virtual Flow sensor works exactly and how good a job it does.


So they now added a lcd to the pump? Come on. Give us some ddcs love

Afaik the last xt was fully controllable


----------



## Costas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *toolmaker03*
> 
> +1 Costas
> man you have been doing this a long time,


Yeh, tell me about it....









From memory my Eheim was the 1048 model - still have it in the shed somewhere sitting with some very early Innovatek blocks in a box.


----------



## Kimir

It's like a mini aquaero on the pump, I like the idea. I'd love to see that on DDC/D5 design.


----------



## jsutter71

I have a question regarding the aquabus cable. Instead of using splitters from each device that requires this connection, is their a way to connect the primary device to a hub which will allow my primary unit being a 6XT to have the same level of control.. Then from the hub connect to the other devices. Right now I have 3 devices that i intend on connecting to my 6XT. Using a splitter from each additional device seems messy to me. The additional devices are a 5LT, farbwerk, and Flow sensor mps flow 400.


----------



## GTXJackBauer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jsutter71*
> 
> I have a question regarding the aquabus cable. Instead of using splitters from each device that requires this connection, is their a way to connect the primary device to a hub which will allow my primary unit being a 6XT to have the same level of control.. Then from the hub connect to the other devices. Right now I have 3 devices that i intend on connecting to my 6XT. Using a splitter from each additional device seems messy to me. The additional devices are a 5LT, farbwerk, and Flow sensor mps flow 400.


IIRC, since the Farbwerk has two Aquabus connectors, you could use it to chain from one device to another.


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> So they now added a lcd to the pump? Come on. Give us some ddcs love
> 
> Afaik the last xt was fully controllable


Well either manually or their auto mode but not like other pumps are controlled from the Aq ... As far as I understood anyway.

But also just externally controllable

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jsutter71*
> 
> I have a question regarding the aquabus cable. Instead of using splitters from each device that requires this connection, is their a way to connect the primary device to a hub which will allow my primary unit being a 6XT to have the same level of control.. Then from the hub connect to the other devices. Right now I have 3 devices that i intend on connecting to my 6XT. Using a splitter from each additional device seems messy to me. The additional devices are a 5LT, farbwerk, and Flow sensor mps flow 400.


This is a bit confusing. A splitter from each device isn't how it works, but yes, some PWM splitter boards can be used as Aquabus splitters. It doesn't matter how they are connected as long as they are connected.
http://www.performance-pcs.com/modmytoys-4-pin-pwm-power-distribution-pcb-4-way-block.html


----------



## Dagamus NM

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jsutter71*
> 
> I have a question regarding the aquabus cable. Instead of using splitters from each device that requires this connection, is their a way to connect the primary device to a hub which will allow my primary unit being a 6XT to have the same level of control.. Then from the hub connect to the other devices. Right now I have 3 devices that i intend on connecting to my 6XT. Using a splitter from each additional device seems messy to me. The additional devices are a 5LT, farbwerk, and Flow sensor mps flow 400.


You don't have to connect them all with splitters. You can connect them by usb and run them independently in aqua suite. Another option is to get the real time clock with the two headers for two separate chains. Use USB for the farbwerk and put the others on each side of the real time clock.


----------



## thedoo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> Some really interesting new Aquaero compatible gear guys.
> 
> https://forum.aquacomputer.de/weitere-foren/english-forum/106533-new-aquastream-ultimate/
> 
> 
> 
> 
> An Aquastream that is finally fully controllable. If I was into Aquastream pumps I would be all over this for sure. The abilities it has without needing an Aq is impressive. I would really like to see the electronics available without the pump.
> Edit: So it looks like an upgrade kit is available for older pumps. I wonder if that could be basically used with other pumps and/or as a sort of upgraded poweradjust. I suspect other pumps probably not given the unique way the AS pumps work. Still, some very interesting gear that opens some new options.
> Could it over power my love of D5's?
> 
> Will be fascinated to see how the Virtual Flow sensor works exactly and how good a job it does.


Oh man, SATA power







. Now if only the Aquaero would get rid of its Molex power I could finally rid myself of that connector.


----------



## jsutter71

I need an extension cable for the 2 pin power supply on cable for the aquaero power connect. Aside from making my own cable does anyone know where I may find one?


----------



## jsutter71

Also in reference to my earlier question regarding a hub for the aquabus cable, will this work?
http://www.aquatuning.us/cables/fan-cables-und-adptors/19453/phobya-4pin-pwm-auf-4x-4pin-splitter


----------



## Dagamus NM

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jsutter71*
> 
> Also in reference to my earlier question regarding a hub for the aquabus cable, will this work?
> http://www.aquatuning.us/cables/fan-cables-und-adptors/19453/phobya-4pin-pwm-auf-4x-4pin-splitter


No, only one carries the speed signal back. Aquabus splitters have all four wires throughout, something you don't want with fans.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jsutter71*
> 
> I need an extension cable for the 2 pin power supply on cable for the aquaero power connect. Aside from making my own cable does anyone know where I may find one?


Are you talking about the 24 pin extension with the green wire spliced in? If so you don't need that with the aquero 6. That was something for the aq5, I believe software/ hardware integration does that with the aq6. I believe the aq6 can turn your computer on/off via usb as long as your bios on your motherboard is configured for it.


----------



## jsutter71

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dagamus NM*
> 
> No, only one carries the speed signal back. Aquabus splitters have all four wires throughout, something you don't want with fans.


I found one cable that does have the dual 4 pin connector other than the Aquabus splitter so If nothing else I'm in search of a 3 way or better yet a 4 way splitter that has all 4 pins.
http://www.startech.com/Cables/Computer-Power/Internal/12in-4-Pin-PWM-Fan-Extension-Power-Y-Cable-Female-to-Male~FAN4SPLIT12

Also since the USB version Farbwerk has 2 Aquabus connections can you use it to daisy chain Aquabus connections? BTW, Note to Aquacomputer. PLEASE PLEASE PLEASE either design a Aquabus hub or better yet in the next Aquaero version allow more then one working Aquabus connection. My motherboard only has two 9 pin USB 2.0 headers. One is used for the chassis and the other will be used for my Aquaero 6 XT and my 5LT. That leaves me with no USB connection options for my Farbwerk and Flow sensor. Pretty messed up that I have to spend another $20 to add more internal USB headers for a $500 motherboard.

Also I'm really digging the Aquastream ULTIMATE. If I hadn't already spent $200 for my EK EK-XTOP Dual DDC then I'd consider purchasing it. When I purchased my Aquaero, it was after I had already purchased most of my watercooling equipment from EK. The biggest let down will be not being able to control the dual pump from the controller, unless modded. For me that was one of the selling points of the Aquaero.


----------



## GTXJackBauer

If your devices have Aquabus, you only need to hook up to the USB to change the device to be used with the Aquaero via Aquasuite. That's what I was told by AQ and had to do with my Farbwerk. Works just fine.

From what I recall with my conversation, you can daisy chain as many as you want on the High Bus only as the Low bus is pretty much used for only a few products and the updated firmware pretty much makes it useless. Also IIRC, the AQ shop has a Aquabus splitter cable as well.


----------



## Dagamus NM

Just get the real time clock. The farbwerk has two aqua us headers if I am not mistaken. All of mine are Bluetooth but have two cut down headers where the aqua us in and out would go.

You can make your own dual female four pin cables or use the short ones from aqua computer and then add standard four pin extensions to whatever length you need.

Run one cable from the real time clock to your slaved 5LT and the other to your farbwerk and then to your flow meter.

The clock greatly simplifies things. If not you should either make your own cables or get the ones from aqua computer designed to do what your want them to do? No point in spending a bunch of money on top end gear and cheating out on connecting it together. Honestly, the prices of the aqua computer cables aren't that bad. Under $5 each. What did you pay for your aquero 6 and 5LT? Another 80-90 for your farbwerk and flow meter?


----------



## jsutter71

Well the Farbwerk doesn't specify a high and low bus. It just has 2 Aquabus connections. I understand that the 6XT limits usage to the high bus connection, but can you use both connections on the Farbwerk? Since it does not specify a high and low bus.


----------



## Dagamus NM

Farbwerk does not have a low bus. Low bus is for tube meters and some other rarely used thing. The AB are in and out. I have no idea whether or not which one you use matters, doubt it.

Both headers are high bus.

You should order the backplate heat sink thing for your aq6, real time clock and a couple of aquabus cables then sit back and enjoy.


----------



## GTXJackBauer

Buying the clock is a waste of money unless you want the right date and time if the AQ6 were to be turned off. What I mean by that is the data logs stored won't have the correct times is what I was told by AQ. So I took that off my cart and as far as the two aquabus connectors on the farbwerk is concerned, either or can be used so that to me makes me believe they are both high bus compatible. You can chain them with other devices as the high bus on the AQ6 can handle multiple devices connected to it and a aqua bus splitter cable can be used if needed. Just make sure which devices need the 4-pin or 3-pin aqua bus cable. The farbwerk only needs the 3-pin because it gets its power from the molex connection where as something like the flow meters need a 4-pin AQ cable for power.

I should have stated, I actually purchased the Farbwerk from Germany and took about 1 1/2 weeks to get here since they made a revision 2. All the revision 2 does is enabled both Bluetooth and the Aquabus connectors.


----------



## rolldog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thedoo*
> 
> Oh man, SATA power
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Now if only the Aquaero would get rid of its Molex power I could finally rid myself of that connector.


Geez, then I wouldn't have any reason to say MOLEX anymore.


----------



## electro2u

I prefer Molex to SATA. SATA power cables are a pain in the butt to sleeve/make imo.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rolldog*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *thedoo*
> 
> Oh man, SATA power
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Now if only the Aquaero would get rid of its Molex power I could finally rid myself of that connector.
> 
> 
> 
> Geez, then I wouldn't have any reason to say MOLEX anymore.
Click to expand...

Don't then. It isn't a molex connector. It is a mate n lok connector
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> I prefer MolexMate N Lok to SATA. SATA power cables are a pain in the butt to sleeve/make imo.


I prefer then because they don't break as easy


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jsutter71*
> 
> I found one cable that does have the dual 4 pin connector other than the Aquabus splitter so If nothing else I'm in search of a 3 way or better yet a 4 way splitter that has all 4 pins.
> http://www.startech.com/Cables/Computer-Power/Internal/12in-4-Pin-PWM-Fan-Extension-Power-Y-Cable-Female-to-Male~FAN4SPLIT12
> 
> Also since the USB version Farbwerk has 2 Aquabus connections can you use it to daisy chain Aquabus connections? BTW, Note to Aquacomputer. PLEASE PLEASE PLEASE either design a Aquabus hub or better yet in the next Aquaero version allow more then one working Aquabus connection. My motherboard only has two 9 pin USB 2.0 headers. One is used for the chassis and the other will be used for my Aquaero 6 XT and my 5LT. That leaves me with no USB connection options for my Farbwerk and Flow sensor. Pretty messed up that I have to spend another $20 to add more internal USB headers for a $500 motherboard


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jsutter71*
> 
> I have a question regarding the aquabus cable. Instead of using splitters from each device that requires this connection, is their a way to connect the primary device to a hub which will allow my primary unit being a 6XT to have the same level of control.. Then from the hub connect to the other devices. Right now I have 3 devices that i intend on connecting to my 6XT. Using a splitter from each additional device seems messy to me. The additional devices are a 5LT, farbwerk, and Flow sensor mps flow 400.


Yes the dual Aquabus means you can just string them together.

The phobia splitter you linked earlier won't work with Aquabus as standard but it will be a very simple mod to connect the other 3 rpm pins together with a bit of solder or wire.
Modmytoys already sells ones that are fully compatible.


----------



## chas1723

Am I reading correctly that my swiftec PWM D5 will not work with the aquero 6 pro? What will happen if I try to use it?

Sent from my VS986 using Tapatalk


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chas1723*
> 
> Am I reading correctly that my swiftec PWM D5 will not work with the aquero 6 pro? What will happen if I try to use it?
> 
> Sent from my VS986 using Tapatalk


It might work, but mostly they don't. The pump will run, You just won't have proper control of the speed. It might run at its default speed of about 40% pressure.


----------



## 10Wredny

Hello guys, i've a small problem with my Aquacomputer devices. I wanna plug in Aquacomputer D5 pump (USB version) to Aquaero 5 LT, and I wanna control it by Aquasuite.

I've connected Aquaero and pump by Aquabus (high and low), with RPM cable and nothing... in Aquasuite i can see that pump on Aquabus 1 port, but i cant control it (change power etc).

How can I connect AC pump to Aquaero?


----------



## electro2u

Need to connect it by usb to the motherboard while connected by aquabus to AQ at the same time to set it up first. After that, usb connection can be removed.


----------



## 10Wredny

In Aquaero i can see that pump:



But in "Pump" section i cant change power...


----------



## RDKing2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *10Wredny*
> 
> Hello guys, i've a small problem with my Aquacomputer devices. I wanna plug in Aquacomputer D5 pump (USB version) to Aquaero 5 LT, and I wanna control it by Aquasuite.
> 
> I've connected Aquaero and pump by Aquabus (high and low), with RPM cable and nothing... in Aquasuite i can see that pump on Aquabus 1 port, but i cant control it (change power etc).
> 
> How can I connect AC pump to Aquaero?


Do you have the power cable connected as well? In my experience you only need to connect USB if you are running more than one of each device. ie- If running two pumps the second would need to be connected to USB to re-address. Same goes for multiple poweradjust, flow sensor, etc.


----------



## 10Wredny

Yes, I've got power cable in Aquaero and pump. My Aquabus adress for pump is 12, everything is OK but... I cant control my pump


----------



## RDKing2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *10Wredny*
> 
> In Aquaero i can see that pump:
> 
> 
> 
> But in "Pump" section i cant change power...


Did you set up a controller for it and assign?


----------



## 10Wredny

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RDKing2*
> 
> Did you set up a controller for it and assign?


I dont understand?







How can I do that?


----------



## RDKing2

Go to controller's in the aquaero software. Select new at upper corner. For now select preset value. Configure and add the device to it (pump) You will need to set up a controller for fans as well.


----------



## 10Wredny

Okay, I made preset value, added pump output and now? I cant control power again.

Why Range is only 76-79%?


----------



## RDKing2

Sorry your picture is to small for me to see. It can be hard to explain how to set the aquaero up. You know what to do now, I suggest playing with it some more. I do not have any aguabus pumps, the two pumps I have are controlled by poweradjust 2's on aquabus. They show up as fan controllers. You pump will be listed in the pump section I believe.


----------



## 10Wredny

I dont know what to do at this moment, i've added preset value and pump output to it...

LINK to image:

http://i.imgur.com/51M42Rc.png


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *10Wredny*
> 
> Okay, I made preset value, added pump output and now? I cant control power again.
> 
> Why Range is only 76-79%?


Because that is what you have the min and max speed set to.

For the Aquaero to control the pump it must be connected via Aquabus and have the control priority set to Aquabus.


Then In the pumps section you set the min / max speed and "set by controller" for Aquaero control. Manual preset is the speed set under USB control and Auto is full speed.


----------



## 10Wredny

Can I do it with only one 5pin USB cable? now I'm not able to connect pump and aquaero at the same time


----------



## RDKing2

Thanks jackusonfire. I knew I was missing something. Under the weather right now and not think real straight. 10wredny- go to the pump section and make the changes. You should not need to set the usb/aquabus priority unless the device has been previously hooked up with USB. Anyway give it a look.


----------



## dng25

Was sleeving the molex connector on the Aquacomputer D5 Pump With USB & Aquabus but forgot which pin the red cable goes to. Pin 1 or Pin 4?


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dng25*
> 
> Was sleeving the molex connector on the Aquacomputer D5 Pump With USB & Aquabus but forgot which pin the red cable goes to. Pin 1 or Pin 4?


Red goes to number 4.

Best bet is to google PC power supply pinouts to be sure we're calling the same pin #4


----------



## dng25

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Red goes to number 4.
> 
> Best bet is to google PC power supply pinouts to be sure we're calling the same pin #4


So it's the +5V pin


----------



## seross69

Really color does not matteras long as the wires go to the same place on the connectors


----------



## Daggi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dng25*
> 
> So it's the +5V pin


No it's the 12 V


----------



## LCRava

Hi guys, quick question.

I have 2 (two) Aquacomputer D5 PWM pumps (without USB) and one Farbwerk Aquabus Edition to connect to an Aquaero 6. I plan on connecting both pumps via PWM using an Aquacomputer Y splitter.

Which connectors should I use on the Aquaero 6 to connect the pumps and the Farbwerk?

Thanks and happy holidays!


----------



## GTXJackBauer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LCRava*
> 
> Hi guys, quick question.
> 
> I have 2 (two) Aquacomputer D5 PWM pumps (without USB) and one Farbwerk Aquabus Edition to connect to an Aquaero 6. I plan on connecting both pumps via PWM using an Aquacomputer Y splitter.
> 
> Which connectors should I use on the Aquaero 6 to connect the pumps and the Farbwerk?
> 
> Thanks and happy holidays!


You need to connect all of those to the "High Aquabus" on the back of the AQ6.


----------



## LCRava

Thanks for the reply.

Is it possible to connect the pumps or the farbwerk to one of the 4 PWM outputs in the Aquaero?

Wouldn't the farbwerk interfere with the PWM signal to the pumps if they are all connected to the "high" output with Y splitters?


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GTXJackBauer*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *LCRava*
> 
> Hi guys, quick question.
> 
> I have 2 (two) Aquacomputer D5 PWM pumps (without USB) and one Farbwerk Aquabus Edition to connect to an Aquaero 6. I plan on connecting both pumps via PWM using an Aquacomputer Y splitter.
> 
> Which connectors should I use on the Aquaero 6 to connect the pumps and the Farbwerk?
> 
> Thanks and happy holidays!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *You need to connect all of those to the "High Aquabus" on the back of the AQ6*.
Click to expand...

*This is absolutely wrong . . . . .*

PWM pumps, whether D5 or DDC (ie: 35X) all need to connect to one of the fan channels.

Keep in mind that the AC pumps with USB and Aquabus are NOT PWM.

They are essentially the Vario model with the red speed adjustment control potentiometer, replaced by a digitally controlled electronic potentiometer, that is then controlled via USB or Aquabus.

The OP explicitly says he has PWM pumps, not the ones with USB/Aquabus.

As far as the Farby, you can use USB and or Aquabus high.

The Aquabus low has been non functional since the first release of firmware that supports the Farbwerk.

Please be careful advising others when you're not sure based on your own experience, or at least clarify that you "Think" something from reading, but can't personally confirm the accuracy.

You surely wouldn't want to damage an expensive A6 because someone gave you wrong information, so be careful not to be on the other end of the stick.

Darlene


----------



## GTXJackBauer

My apologies for the mix up. Still feeling Xmas day's festivities.

As Diva corrected me, she is right.,


----------



## LCRava

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> *This is absolutely wrong . . . . .*
> 
> PWM pumps, whether D5 or DDC (ie: 35X) all need to connect to one of the fan channels.
> 
> Keep in mind that the AC pumps with USB and Aquabus are NOT PWM.
> 
> They are essentially the Vario model with the red speed adjustment control potentiometer, replaced by a digitally controlled electronic potentiometer, that is then controlled via USB or Aquabus.
> 
> The OP explicitly says he has PWM pumps, not the ones with USB/Aquabus.
> 
> As far as the Farby, you can use USB and or Aquabus high.
> 
> The Aquabus low has been non functional since the first release of firmware that supports the Farbwerk.
> 
> Please be careful advising others when you're not sure based on your own experience, or at least clarify that you "Think" something from reading, but can't personally confirm the accuracy.
> 
> You surely wouldn't want to damage an expensive A6 because someone gave you wrong information, so be careful not to be on the other end of the stick.
> 
> Darlene


Thanks Darlene. You rock







(Gave you some much deserved REP too







)


----------



## chas1723

Really liking my Aquaero 6 Pro. Just wish I would have thought about getting a compatible pump when I bought this Swiftec PWM model.

Sent from my VS986 using Tapatalk


----------



## Dagamus NM

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chas1723*
> 
> Really liking my Aquaero 6 Pro. Just wish I would have thought about getting a compatible pump when I bought this Swiftec PWM model.
> 
> Sent from my VS986 using Tapatalk


You live and you learn. When you get a proper pump you should be able to sell your swiftech for a decent amount. That or just live with what you have. I have two PWM swiftech pumps on one loop hooked to an aq6, they run fine but not as well as they could. Next time I take that loop apart I will replace with a couple of d5's of either the PWM or USB flavor.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dagamus NM*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *chas1723*
> 
> Really liking my Aquaero 6 Pro. Just wish I would have thought about getting a compatible pump when I bought this Swiftec PWM model.
> 
> Sent from my VS986 using Tapatalk
> 
> 
> 
> You live and you learn. When you get a proper pump you should be able to sell your swiftech for a decent amount. That or just live with what you have. *I have two PWM swiftech pumps on one loop hooked to an aq6, they run fine but not as well as they could.* Next time I take that loop apart I will replace with a couple of d5's of either the PWM or USB flavor.
Click to expand...

Have you done the Diva mod . . . . . .

What do you expect that they should be doing that they don't. . . .

The Diva mod will allow any of the non-AC D5's to be fully controllable via the A6.

Darlene


----------



## Dagamus NM

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> The Diva mod will allow any of the non-AC D5's to be fully controllable via the A6.
> 
> Darlene


Have you done the Diva mod . . . . . . No, while I appreciate your pioneering efforts, the time it would take would be the same as swapping the pumps with ones designed to work with this device and I have some on the shelf.

What do you expect that they should be doing that they don't. . . . Be fully controllable via the aq6. I have plenty of flow, it is not loud and ramps are good so it is more of an annoyance.


----------



## chas1723

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Dagamus NM*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *chas1723*
> 
> Really liking my Aquaero 6 Pro. Just wish I would have thought about getting a compatible pump when I bought this Swiftec PWM model.
> 
> Sent from my VS986 using Tapatalk
> 
> 
> 
> You live and you learn. When you get a proper pump you should be able to sell your swiftech for a decent amount. That or just live with what you have. *I have two PWM swiftech pumps on one loop hooked to an aq6, they run fine but not as well as they could.* Next time I take that loop apart I will replace with a couple of d5's of either the PWM or USB flavor.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Have you done the Diva mod . . . . . .
> 
> What do you expect that they should be doing that they don't. . . .
> 
> The Diva mod will allow any of the non-AC D5's to be fully controllable via the A6.
> 
> Darlene
Click to expand...

I don't have the skills or equipment necessary to do the diva mod

Sent from my VS986 using Tapatalk


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chas1723*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Dagamus NM*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *chas1723*
> 
> Really liking my Aquaero 6 Pro. Just wish I would have thought about getting a compatible pump when I bought this Swiftec PWM model.
> 
> Sent from my VS986 using Tapatalk
> 
> 
> 
> You live and you learn. When you get a proper pump you should be able to sell your swiftech for a decent amount. That or just live with what you have. *I have two PWM swiftech pumps on one loop hooked to an aq6, they run fine but not as well as they could.* Next time I take that loop apart I will replace with a couple of d5's of either the PWM or USB flavor.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Have you done the Diva mod . . . . . .
> 
> What do you expect that they should be doing that they don't. . . .
> 
> The Diva mod will allow any of the non-AC D5's to be fully controllable via the A6.
> 
> Darlene
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> I don't have the skills or equipment necessary to do the diva mod
> 
> Sent from my VS986 using Tapatalk
Click to expand...

It's really not that hard . . . about a difficulty level 1.5

All the parts can be bought at Radio Shack for a few bucks and the extra fan connector pins from PPCs.

If you don't have a soldering iron, do you have a technical school or TV repair shop nearby, you might be able to easily find someone there who'd be able to help out.

If not,

Even an el-cheapo soldering iron and "helping hand" at Radio Shack isn't very much $, and learning a new skill is always rewarding in itself.

If you have the skills to assemble a PC, it's a good bet you can learn to solder, at least a little bit.

https://www.radioshack.com/products/radioshack-helping-hands-with-magnifier?variant=5717834693

https://www.radioshack.com/products/5-piece-basic-soldering-set?variant=5717865349

Darlene


----------



## deeph

Hi, I just changed my water the other night. I used AC filter on my loop. After 6 months I noticed my AC filter blocking the water to circulate.
I have disassembled the filter, cleaned and checked everything. All looks fine. Attached my filter on my loop again water still wouldn't passed the filter.
It sucked up the water and stopped on the filter mesh, there is no water out from filter outlet. But if I run my loop without the filter it runs just fine.

Any fix for my filter?

deeph


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *deeph*
> 
> Hi, I just changed my water the other night. I used AC filter on my loop. After 6 months I noticed my AC filter blocking the water to circulate.
> I have disassembled the filter, cleaned and checked everything. All looks fine. Attached my filter on my loop again water still wouldn't passed the filter.
> It sucked up the water and stopped on the filter mesh, there is no water out from filter outlet. But if I run my loop without the filter it runs just fine.
> 
> Any fix for my filter?
> 
> deeph


I dont think you need it and it is adding restrictions that you dont need


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> It's really not that hard . . . about a difficulty level 1.5
> 
> All the parts can be bought at Radio Shack for a few bucks and the extra fan connector pins from PPCs.
> 
> If you don't have a soldering iron, do you have a technical school or TV repair shop nearby, you might be able to easily find someone there who'd be able to help out.
> 
> If not,
> 
> Even an el-cheapo soldering iron and "helping hand" at Radio Shack isn't very much $, and learning a new skill is always rewarding in itself.
> 
> If you have the skills to assemble a PC, it's a good bet you can learn to solder, at least a little bit.
> 
> https://www.radioshack.com/products/radioshack-helping-hands-with-magnifier?variant=5717834693
> 
> https://www.radioshack.com/products/5-piece-basic-soldering-set?variant=5717865349
> 
> Darlene


100% right. Soldering should be a core subject of geek 101. If you wanna be an enthusiast it's definitely something you should learn and this is a great excuse.
Just like every man should know how to weld, basic electrical / automotive skills and building / how to mix a decent batch of cement.


----------



## deadspeedv

What or where abouts is this diva mod?


----------



## Dagamus NM

In thinking about the diva mod, the swiftech pump I have has two molex size adapters for the 12v and two four pin fan headers for the rpm and PWM signal. For the diva mod to work I would need to switch everything to the fan header to the aquaero right?

Then solder in the zener diode and add a resistor or something along those lines?


----------



## rolldog

Diva,

Since some of us aren't totally familiar with how to assemble the Diva Mod, could you please list the additional components necessary and just explain what goes where? I think something like a recipe would be helpful, may even be something worth a sticky. I know I've seen this question asked at least 5-6 times over the last few months, and even for myself, as often as I've seen it explained, I haven't really seen a breakdown of materials and what to do with them. Most people already knew about the Diva Mod, but just needed a little assistance along the way. I know I would like to see this written out. This way, anyone who wants to attempt it knows what to do, and if someone wants it done but doesn't feel comfortable soldering, they could at least pickup the parts and bring everything, including your instructions, to someone locally who can solder.

Just a thought, but I think it would be helpful, plus, it'll prevent you from having to repeat yourself.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dagamus NM*
> 
> In thinking about the diva mod, the swiftech pump I have has two molex size adapters for the 12v and two four pin fan headers for the rpm and PWM signal. For the diva mod to work I would need to switch everything to the fan header to the aquaero right?
> 
> Then solder in the zener diode and add a resistor or something along those lines?


The 12V power for the pump(s) always comes from the Molex(s) to the PSU.
If you're running a dual PWM D5 setup, then both Molexes go to the PSU.

If you have dual pumps that are for the same loop, and you want them to control together, be at the same speed, then you want the same PWM signal to go to both pumps, so you can run the 2 of them from a single A6 fan channel.

If it's 2 pumps and 2 loops, then likely you may want to control them individually, so you need to use 2 of the A6 fan channels.

From your description, I assume you have a dual pump setup and want them to run at the same speeds.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rolldog*
> 
> Diva,
> 
> Since some of us aren't totally familiar with how to assemble the Diva Mod, could you please list the additional components necessary and just explain what goes where? I think something like a recipe would be helpful, may even be something worth a sticky. I know I've seen this question asked at least 5-6 times over the last few months, and even for myself, as often as I've seen it explained, I haven't really seen a breakdown of materials and what to do with them. Most people already knew about the Diva Mod, but just needed a little assistance along the way. I know I would like to see this written out. This way, anyone who wants to attempt it knows what to do, and if someone wants it done but doesn't feel comfortable soldering, they could at least pickup the parts and bring everything, including your instructions, to someone locally who can solder.
> 
> Just a thought, but I think it would be helpful, plus, it'll prevent you from having to repeat yourself.


Good idea, as it's been a while since I've done that and there are a lot of new faces here since.

I'll make a separate post for it.

Darlene


----------



## IT Diva

Here's a bit of a breakdown on the Diva Mod:

Before I detail the mod, let me explain what it does and why, and a little about PWM.

All the PWM D5 pumps, with the exception of the one from AquaComputer, come exactly the way Lang made them with no reseller / distributor mod.

They are designed to run at 60% when there is no PWM signal.

This is a variation from the Intel standard for PC PWM, whereby every PWM fan you'll find will run at max when no PWM signal is provided.

Based on the Intel standard, each PWM device is supposed to have its PWM line pulled up to 5V thru a resistor internally.

When the PWM line is at 5V, the device runs at max speed because its internal control circuitry applies 12V to the motor..

When you add a controller of some type that connects the PWM line to ground for short intervals at a time, then the internal control circuitry doesn't provide any power to the motor during those intervals.

To put in the real numbers, PC PWM is standardized at 25KHz.

The interval for each possible pulse is 40 microseconds.

The "on time" percentage, or the percentage of the time the motor gets 12V, is called Duty Cycle".

If we have a setup and we have the PWM line at 5V for 8 microseconds, followed by 32 microseconds of 0V, then that would be a 20% duty cycle.

If the PWM line's 5V time was 30 microseconds, followed by 10 microseconds of 0V, that would be 75% duty cycle.

The issue with all the PWM D5s except the one from AC, is that since it's designed to run at 60% with no PWM signal, that precludes having the expected internal resistor circuit that pulls the PWM line up to 5V.

The A6 controller adheres to the Intel standard, and expects a 5V level on the PWM line. . . . Without it, there's no control.

The purpose of the Diva Mod, is to provide that 5V pullup on the PWM line so that the PWM D5 can react electrically the same as standard PWM fans, and you can have full range control via the A6.

There are 3 components in the Diva Mod,

2 resistors and a 5.1V Zener diode.

Zener diodes have a unique electrical characteristic that allows them to act as a voltage regulator with only an additional resistor in series.

The 5.1V Zener diode in series with a 560 ohm to 1K ohm resistor between pins 1 and 2 on a 4 pin fan connector creates a 5V source where they connect together, from the 12V present between pins 1 and 2.

The second resistor, a 2.2K ohm for a dual pump to a 4.7K ohm for a single pump, connects from the 5V source to the PWM line, pulling it up to 5V

With the PWM line pulled up to 5V thru the resistor, the A6 will control it from 0% to 100%.

The D5 typically runs at min speed of about 800rpm below about 15% duty cycle, and maxes out at about 4800rpm at about 70% duty cycle.

It's a significantly different range of speed versus pulse width from what you see with PWM fans.

When you look at pics of the diva Mod, you can see the Zener diode with its anode end connected to pin 1, which is the Gnd pin.

You also see the physically larger resistor, (the 560 ohm to 1K ohm 1/2W one) connected to pin 2, which is the +12V pin and the cathode (banded) end of the Zener diode.

Zener diodes install backwards from what you may already know about diode polarity.

At that junction, you'd measure 5.1V to gnd if you put a multi-meter on it.

The physically smaller, but higher value resistor connects the 5.1V junction to the PWM pin, which is pin 4.

Without getting too technical, if you want to run 2 pumps together, you can do it with a single Diva Mod, just be sure they both have their PWM wires connected together so they both share the 5V pullup.

With a dual pump, a 2.2K ohm resistor is the sweet spot, while if it's a single pump, 3.3K or 4.7K ohms is good.

For a dual pump setup, one of the easiest ways to implement the mod is to do it to a Swiftech PWM splitter cable that has had all the power wires removed, since you don't need them.

That gives you a convenient way to run 2 pumps together on a single channel, with one of them reporting it's rpm to the A6, while the other can report its rpm to the mobo CPU fan header so you don't have a CPU fan error issue.

If you have just a single pump, or two pumps for 2 loops, then you can do the mod right on the 4 pin connector from the pump(s).

Darlene

Here's some pics of the Diva Mod on a Swiftech PWM splitter: . . . Hope the explanation and pics help it all make more sense now.

Complete and ready to install . . . the mod is on the 4 pin female connector at the upper right that connects to the A6.



A close up of the mod with heatshrink to keep it tidy.



With the heatshrink pulled back . . you can see that it's a 2.2K ohm resistor, (red/red/red) since it's for a dual pump



Here's a close-up that you'll see posted in several threads and posts here on OCN . . this was also for a dual pump setup, but on a scratch made splitter cable. This was one of my first mods when the A6 first came out and turned out not to work with PWM D5's as it came out of the box.


----------



## iBruce

She is pure raw talent that woman, I love watching her mind at work.









2 resistors and a 5.1V Zener diode.


----------



## zenworm

Hey everyone! I'm having some issues with the Aquaero 6 and the Silverstone fan hub (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00VNW556I/ref=ask_ql_qh_dp_hza).

If I don't plug in the fan hub's SATA power, the fans don't seem to be getting power no matter what I do with the Aquaero.

If I plug in the SATA power for the hub, the fans only run at 100% no matter what I do to the voltage, RPM, etc.

I've tried searching the forums and can't find anything on this... any help would be appreciated!

Thanks in advance.


----------



## Dagamus NM

So maybe it was the swiftech splitter in the images that I have seen before that was confusing me. So this only applies to D5s right?

For the swiftech mcp35x2 it should work fine without the mod right?


----------



## Costas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dagamus NM*
> 
> For the swiftech mcp35x2 it should work fine without the mod right?


Yeh the MCP35x2 will work correctly without any mods required - currently using a MCP35x2 with a 6XT myself.

It's primarily the PWM D5's that have the issue of PWM drive compatibilty.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *deeph*
> 
> Hi, I just changed my water the other night. I used AC filter on my loop. After 6 months I noticed my AC filter blocking the water to circulate.
> I have disassembled the filter, cleaned and checked everything. All looks fine. Attached my filter on my loop again water still wouldn't passed the filter.
> It sucked up the water and stopped on the filter mesh, there is no water out from filter outlet. But if I run my loop without the filter it runs just fine.
> 
> Any fix for my filter?
> 
> deeph


did you open the ball valves ?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zenworm*
> 
> Hey everyone! I'm having some issues with the Aquaero 6 and the Silverstone fan hub (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00VNW556I/ref=ask_ql_qh_dp_hza).
> 
> If I don't plug in the fan hub's SATA power, the fans don't seem to be getting power no matter what I do with the Aquaero.
> 
> If I plug in the SATA power for the hub, the fans only run at 100% no matter what I do to the voltage, RPM, etc.
> 
> I've tried searching the forums and can't find anything on this... any help would be appreciated!
> 
> Thanks in advance.


that hub takes power from psu and splits the pwm signal, ( i assume the rpm signal only goes to 1 fan header, but it may goto all - which is a problem if it does that will need addressed. )

you can mod it to take power from the pwm plug,. but unless you mod it, it is not designed to take power form the pwm ( in this case the aq6) so if you are trying to control voltage fans ( 3 pin ) it shouldnt matter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dagamus NM*
> 
> So maybe it was the swiftech splitter in the images that I have seen before that was confusing me. So this only applies to D5s right?
> 
> For the swiftech mcp35x2 it should work fine without the mod right?


correct


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dagamus NM*
> 
> So maybe it was the swiftech splitter in the images that I have seen before that was confusing me. So this only applies to D5s right?
> 
> *For the swiftech mcp35x2 it should work fine without the mod right*?


YES,

The mod is Only for the PWM D5's. (Excluding the one now available from AquaComputer already modded internally to work with the A6)

The 35Xs Do Not need the mod, as they have the internal pullup to 5V on the PWM line that follows the Intel standard.

They also run at max with no PWM connected.

If you have the Swiftech dual 35X pump, it would have come with the splitter cable, which you can just plug right up to a fan channel on the A6. . . be sure to set for PWM control and such.

I've tested the A6 with four of the 35Xs on a single channel and it was fine.

Darlene


----------



## DerComissar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Here's a bit of a breakdown on the Diva Mod:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Before I detail the mod, let me explain what it does and why, and a little about PWM.
> 
> All the PWM D5 pumps, with the exception of the one from AquaComputer, come exactly the way Lang made them with no reseller / distributor mod.
> 
> They are designed to run at 60% when there is no PWM signal.
> 
> This is a variation from the Intel standard for PC PWM, whereby every PWM fan you'll find will run at max when no PWM signal is provided.
> 
> Based on the Intel standard, each PWM device is supposed to have its PWM line pulled up to 5V thru a resistor internally.
> 
> When the PWM line is at 5V, the device runs at max speed because its internal control circuitry applies 12V to the motor..
> 
> When you add a controller of some type that connects the PWM line to ground for short intervals at a time, then the internal control circuitry doesn't provide any power to the motor during those intervals.
> 
> To put in the real numbers, PC PWM is standardized at 25KHz.
> 
> The interval for each possible pulse is 40 microseconds.
> 
> The "on time" percentage, or the percentage of the time the motor gets 12V, is called Duty Cycle".
> 
> If we have a setup and we have the PWM line at 5V for 8 microseconds, followed by 32 microseconds of 0V, then that would be a 20% duty cycle.
> 
> If the PWM line's 5V time was 30 microseconds, followed by 10 microseconds of 0V, that would be 75% duty cycle.
> 
> The issue with all the PWM D5s except the one from AC, is that since it's designed to run at 60% with no PWM signal, that precludes having the expected internal resistor circuit that pulls the PWM line up to 5V.
> 
> The A6 controller adheres to the Intel standard, and expects a 5V level on the PWM line. . . . Without it, there's no control.
> 
> The purpose of the Diva Mod, is to provide that 5V pullup on the PWM line so that the PWM D5 can react electrically the same as standard PWM fans, and you can have full range control via the A6.
> 
> There are 3 components in the Diva Mod,
> 
> 2 resistors and a 5.1V Zener diode.
> 
> Zener diodes have a unique electrical characteristic that allows them to act as a voltage regulator with only an additional resistor in series.
> 
> The 5.1V Zener diode in series with a 560 ohm to 1K ohm resistor between pins 1 and 2 on a 4 pin fan connector creates a 5V source where they connect together, from the 12V present between pins 1 and 2.
> 
> The second resistor, a 2.2K ohm for a dual pump to a 4.7K ohm for a single pump, connects from the 5V source to the PWM line, pulling it up to 5V
> 
> With the PWM line pulled up to 5V thru the resistor, the A6 will control it from 0% to 100%.
> 
> The D5 typically runs at min speed of about 800rpm below about 15% duty cycle, and maxes out at about 4800rpm at about 70% duty cycle.
> 
> It's a significantly different range of speed versus pulse width from what you see with PWM fans.
> 
> When you look at pics of the diva Mod, you can see the Zener diode with its anode end connected to pin 1, which is the Gnd pin.
> 
> You also see the physically larger resistor, (the 560 ohm to 1K ohm 1/2W one) connected to pin 2, which is the +12V pin and the cathode (banded) end of the Zener diode.
> 
> Zener diodes install backwards from what you may already know about diode polarity.
> 
> At that junction, you'd measure 5.1V to gnd if you put a multi-meter on it.
> 
> The physically smaller, but higher value resistor connects the 5.1V junction to the PWM pin, which is pin 4.
> 
> Without getting too technical, if you want to run 2 pumps together, you can do it with a single Diva Mod, just be sure they both have their PWM wires connected together so they both share the 5V pullup.
> 
> With a dual pump, a 2.2K ohm resistor is the sweet spot, while if it's a single pump, 3.3K or 4.7K ohms is good.
> 
> For a dual pump setup, one of the easiest ways to implement the mod is to do it to a Swiftech PWM splitter cable that has had all the power wires removed, since you don't need them.
> 
> That gives you a convenient way to run 2 pumps together on a single channel, with one of them reporting it's rpm to the A6, while the other can report its rpm to the mobo CPU fan header so you don't have a CPU fan error issue.
> 
> If you have just a single pump, or two pumps for 2 loops, then you can do the mod right on the 4 pin connector from the pump(s).
> 
> Darlene
> 
> Here's some pics of the Diva Mod on a Swiftech PWM splitter: . . . Hope the explanation and pics help it all make more sense now.
> 
> Complete and ready to install . . . the mod is on the 4 pin female connector at the upper right that connects to the A6.
> 
> 
> A close up of the mod with heatshrink to keep it tidy.
> 
> 
> 
> With the heatshrink pulled back . . you can see that it's a 2.2K ohm resistor, (red/red/red) since it's for a dual pump
> 
> 
> 
> Here's a close-up that you'll see posted in several threads and posts here on OCN . . this was also for a dual pump setup, but on a scratch made splitter cable. This was one of my first mods when the A6 first came out and turned out not to work with PWM D5's as it came out of the box.


Excellent guide, and photos.
Rep+









But, I'm still having trouble justifying the $350+ CAD$ cost of an Aquaero 6 here, less any accessories.
It's a great controller, but the cost of admission is very high.

And I'd have to replace my D5's with pwm versions to utilize this mod.


----------



## Mega Man

350? surely the cad isnt that far below usd by my calculations it should be around 250 ( used to be normal price in america for xt ) unless your ta is that high... yikes


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zenworm*
> 
> Hey everyone! I'm having some issues with the Aquaero 6 and the Silverstone fan hub (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00VNW556I/ref=ask_ql_qh_dp_hza).
> 
> If I don't plug in the fan hub's SATA power, the fans don't seem to be getting power no matter what I do with the Aquaero.
> 
> If I plug in the SATA power for the hub, the fans only run at 100% no matter what I do to the voltage, RPM, etc.
> 
> I've tried searching the forums and can't find anything on this... any help would be appreciated!
> 
> Thanks in advance.


The SATA cable is the only source of power for the splitter. That is why the fan cable only had two wires. So the Aquaero cannot directly power anything using this splitter, just like many others.

The fans connected will run at 100% unless they get a pwm signal. The Aquaero fan output connected to it must be set to pwm ... Voltage or any other setting cannot do anything.


----------



## DerComissar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> 350? surely the cad isnt that far below usd by my calculations it should be around 250 ( used to be normal price in america for xt ) unless your ta is that high... yikes


Yeah, the dollar is currently very low here, compared to the US dollar.
Nonetheless, I'm still considering taking the plunge.


----------



## GTXJackBauer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DerComissar*
> 
> And I'd have to replace my D5's with pwm versions to utilize this mod.


Don't need the mod if you replace the pumps. All you have to do is replace them with the AQ compatible versions and sell off the ones you have now.


----------



## DerComissar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GTXJackBauer*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *DerComissar*
> 
> And I'd have to replace my D5's with pwm versions to utilize this mod.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Don't need the mod if you replace the pumps. All you have to do is replace them with the AQ compatible versions and sell off the ones you have now.
Click to expand...

True, and a good point.


----------



## Dagamus NM

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> YES,
> 
> The mod is Only for the PWM D5's. (Excluding the one now available from AquaComputer already modded internally to work with the A6)
> 
> The 35Xs Do Not need the mod, as they have the internal pullup to 5V on the PWM line that follows the Intel standard.
> 
> They also run at max with no PWM connected.
> 
> If you have the Swiftech dual 35X pump, it would have come with the splitter cable, which you can just plug right up to a fan channel on the A6. . . be sure to set for PWM control and such.
> 
> I've tested the A6 with four of the 35Xs on a single channel and it was fine.
> 
> Darlene


Thank you Darlene, et al. I had linked the Swiftech pumps in my mind to the need to do this from seeing the Swiftech splitter involved. Next time I am at that computer I will change the pump settings to PWM pumps.

I do need to pick up a few more pumps at some point. Besides the Swiftech pumps, I have a three Eheim pumps from Aquacomputer connected to AMS rad/res/pump combos, two D5 varios ad two D5 USBs.

From what you guys have told me in the past, it is my understanding that the USB variant is basically a vario with a software controlled potentiometer instead of the little red manual one at the bottom of the regular vario.

If you were to get a pair of D5s, would you prefer the USB/Aquabus version or the proper PWM?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DerComissar*
> 
> Yeah, the dollar is currently very low here, compared to the US dollar.
> Nonetheless, I'm still considering taking the plunge.


Your build isn't complete without it.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dagamus NM*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> YES,
> 
> The mod is Only for the PWM D5's. (Excluding the one now available from AquaComputer already modded internally to work with the A6)
> 
> The 35Xs Do Not need the mod, as they have the internal pullup to 5V on the PWM line that follows the Intel standard.
> 
> They also run at max with no PWM connected.
> 
> If you have the Swiftech dual 35X pump, it would have come with the splitter cable, which you can just plug right up to a fan channel on the A6. . . be sure to set for PWM control and such.
> 
> I've tested the A6 with four of the 35Xs on a single channel and it was fine.
> 
> Darlene
> 
> 
> 
> Thank you Darlene, et al. I had linked the Swiftech pumps in my mind to the need to do this from seeing the Swiftech splitter involved. Next time I am at that computer I will change the pump settings to PWM pumps.
> 
> I do need to pick up a few more pumps at some point. Besides the Swiftech pumps, I have a three Eheim pumps from Aquacomputer connected to AMS rad/res/pump combos, two D5 varios ad two D5 USBs.
> 
> From what you guys have told me in the past, it is my understanding that the USB variant is basically a vario with a software controlled potentiometer instead of the little red manual one at the bottom of the regular vario.
> 
> *If you were to get a pair of D5s, would you prefer the USB/Aquabus version or the proper PWM?
> *
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *DerComissar*
> 
> Yeah, the dollar is currently very low here, compared to the US dollar.
> Nonetheless, I'm still considering taking the plunge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Your build isn't complete without it.
Click to expand...

I'd base that choice on if I had fan channels available on the A6 for the pumps.

I would choose PWM versions anytime possible for their wider range of control and more reliable startup if starting from low speed and it costs significantly less. (although start boost on the A6 solves that when using an A6) . . . .But . . .

For each PWM pump, or pair of pumps that you want to control, you need a dedicated fan channel which you may not have available if it's a bigger build with a lot of fans.

With the USB model, you have Aquabus and/or USB to control with, so no fan channels are usurped, so that can be an advantage, but the USB model is pretty pricey.

Darlene


----------



## Dagamus NM

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> I'd base that choice on if I had fan channels available on the A6 for the pumps.
> 
> I would choose PWM versions anytime possible for their wider range of control and more reliable startup if starting from low speed and it costs significantly less. (although start boost on the A6 solves that when using an A6) . . . .But . . .
> 
> For each PWM pump, or pair of pumps that you want to control, you need a dedicated fan channel which you may not have available if it's a bigger build with a lot of fans.
> 
> With the USB model, you have Aquabus and/or USB to control with, so no fan channels are usurped, so that can be an advantage, but the USB model is pretty pricey.
> 
> Darlene


That makes sense. Somehow I don't think PWM channels will be in short supply for me. Somehow there was a mix up when I last ordered fans and I ended up with 54 PK-3s instead of PS-PKs. Looks like I will be able to put some of my power adjust 3s to use after all.

Thank you again.


----------



## chas1723

I am getting what sounds like coil whine off of channel 4 of my Aquaero 6 Pro. That channel is running 3 140mm Phanteks case fans by voltage control. They are 3 pin fans and came with my Primo case. If I unhook those 3 from the 6 Pro it becomes quiet. It starts making a noise from about 35% to 95%. Outside of that it is fine. What could be causing this?


----------



## GTXJackBauer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chas1723*
> 
> I am getting what sounds like coil whine off of channel 4 of my Aquaero 6 Pro. That channel is running 3 140mm Phanteks case fans by voltage control. They are 3 pin fans and came with my Primo case. If I unhook those 3 from the 6 Pro it becomes quiet. It starts making a noise from about 35% to 95%. Outside of that it is fine. What could be causing this?


Have you tested to see each individual fan in case that is the one making the noise?


----------



## chas1723

It sounds like it is coming from the Aquaero itself.


----------



## Methodical

Where can I buy one of these fan controllers? I checked the regular places (newegg, amazon, micro center), but no luck.

Thanks


----------



## GTXJackBauer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Methodical*
> 
> Where can I buy one of these fan controllers? I checked the regular places (newegg, amazon, micro center), but no luck.
> 
> Thanks


Performance-pcs, aquatuning and the manufacturers themselves in Germany, Aquacomputer.


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Methodical*
> 
> Where can I buy one of these fan controllers? I checked the regular places (newegg, amazon, micro center), but no luck.
> 
> Thanks


Those are not really regular places to buy mod equipment and water cooling gear. Although Microcenter has a lot more now. Best place to get one will be ppc or aquacomputer web site or aquatuning


----------



## Methodical

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GTXJackBauer*
> 
> Performance-pcs, aquatuning and the manufacturers themselves in Germany, Aquacomputer.


Thanks


----------



## Methodical

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MeanBruce*
> 
> So amazing, I'll dig into the Aquaero manual and set that up, the Aquaero just keeps on giving.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The AquaComputer Aquabus D5, well this one at least says "Alarm" in green instead of TACHO, hope its not an older revision. The sleeving is so well done by PPCS, thanks guys you so rock, only Darlene could possibly do a finer job.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> edit: the sleeving is Bitspower Ultra-Black, really happy with the results.
> 
> http://s1177.photobucket.com/user/MeanBruce/media/IMG_6961_zpsb4d18665.jpg.html


Is this the best pump to work with the Aquaero 6 Pro fan controller giving you maximum control of the pump, without modification?

Thanks


----------



## Dagamus NM

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Methodical*
> 
> Is this the best pump to work with the Aquaero 6 Pro fan controller giving you maximum control of the pump, without modification?
> 
> Thanks


This was discussed just a few posts ago. The pump you posted is referred to as the USB pump. The other option is the PWM pump from aqua computer with the turquoise colored cable.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> I'd base that choice on if I had fan channels available on the A6 for the pumps.
> 
> I would choose PWM versions anytime possible for their wider range of control and more reliable startup if starting from low speed and it costs significantly less. (although start boost on the A6 solves that when using an A6) . . . .But . . .
> 
> For each PWM pump, or pair of pumps that you want to control, you need a dedicated fan channel which you may not have available if it's a bigger build with a lot of fans.
> 
> With the USB model, you have Aquabus and/or USB to control with, so no fan channels are usurped, so that can be an advantage, but the USB model is pretty pricey.
> 
> Darlene


----------



## Methodical

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dagamus NM*
> 
> This was discussed just a few posts ago. The pump you posted is referred to as the USB pump. The other option is the PWM pump from aqua computer with the turquoise colored cable.


I just started reading this thread and hadn't got anywhere near the last 2 pages (got to page 13). I was on page 11 when I found the post that I quoted. The last 2 pages do sum up the questions I would've had about pumps and provides good reasoning for choosing either of the 2 the types of pumps. For my situation, it would be the USB pump, so that I can keep all fan channels available for my 2 water loop setup, plus case fans.

Thanks for the reply.


----------



## chas1723

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GTXJackBauer*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *chas1723*
> 
> I am getting what sounds like coil whine off of channel 4 of my Aquaero 6 Pro. That channel is running 3 140mm Phanteks case fans by voltage control. They are 3 pin fans and came with my Primo case. If I unhook those 3 from the 6 Pro it becomes quiet. It starts making a noise from about 35% to 95%. Outside of that it is fine. What could be causing this?
> 
> 
> 
> Have you tested to see each individual fan in case that is the one making the noise?
Click to expand...

It is most definitely the aquaero. Unplugging any one of the 3 fans lowers the sound. Unplugging 2 makes it go away completely.

Sent from my VS986 using Tapatalk


----------



## Methodical

1st Question. The only difference between the AQ6 Pro and AQ6 XT is the XT comes with a remote control, correct? Is there a great benefit to having the remote control?

2nd Question. Does this controller come in black? I've only seen the silver unit on the sites.

Thanks


----------



## RDKing2

Believe only the pro has 4 quick access buttons on the front as well. The AQ6 does not come in black, the bezel is purchased separately.


----------



## Mega Man

1 the differences are the remote controller ( great for HTPC and you can buy separately ) and would be even better if they would release the darn IR LED !!!!!!!!!!! ( @Shoggy ! )

and touch screen with 4 additional touch buttons ( pro has mechanical buttons only 3 vs the xts 7 buttons )

2 you can buy a black faceplate


----------



## Methodical

Thanks^^^^^. Now must decide which is best for me.


----------



## InfoSeeker

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Methodical*
> 
> Thanks^^^^^. Now must decide which is best for me.


One more choice, the xt also comes with Red or Blue LED touch buttons.


----------



## harlock328

I just purchased Aq6xt and noticed the screen looks damaged (bottom right corner). Screen works fine so could be manufacturing defect. Anyone else seen this before? wanted to ask before I contacted AQ. Attached is pic. The screen also bows out when I installed it in Caselabs SMA8. I loosen up the screws to the mount to decrease the bowing but its still there







Not a big fan on AQ's mounting adapters because it flexes the screen when pressure is applied to the mounts.


----------



## Mega Man

You need the non conforming mounting kit from caselabs

Also I don't see anything in the pic to worry over. You also have the plastic cover on the screen you need to remove fyi


----------



## GTXJackBauer

It also looks to me like it has the plastic film over the screen which could give you that "scratch" look. Remove it and see if it's gone.

As for the faceplate, its never solid on because its on via glue and the 2 screws to each side. It shouldn't warp out so bad where its noticeable in the front of the case.


----------



## harlock328

Thanks for information about the mount. There was protective film on the plastic cover that I removed earlier.
took closer look at the right counter and it's PCB that's has damage/cut; so the glue is on the screen instead the pcb flush with it (from the looks of it)

IMG_0056.JPG 997k .JPG file


----------



## Dagamus NM

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> You need the non conforming mounting kit from caselabs
> 
> Also I don't see anything in the pic to worry over. You also have the plastic cover on the screen you need to remove fyi


Non-conforming mount kit? Link?


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dagamus NM*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> You need the non conforming mounting kit from caselabs
> 
> Also I don't see anything in the pic to worry over. You also have the plastic cover on the screen you need to remove fyi
> 
> 
> 
> Non-conforming mount kit? Link?
Click to expand...

http://www.caselabs-store.com/flex-bay-5-25-device-mount-short-nonconforming/


----------



## Dagamus NM

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> http://www.caselabs-store.com/flex-bay-5-25-device-mount-short-nonconforming/


Well ain't that clever. Thank you for sharing. I have a ton of 5.25' mounts in both short and long but none of these. Considering that the aquaero is basically the only 5.25" device that I want to install I should pick some up.

You wouldn't happen to know of an option for mounting a 5.25" device sideways in a case so that I can view it through the window? I don't have any space in the front of my cases to mount my aquaero. I have the case turned sideways so having it on the front is somewhat counterproductive as far as the display goes.


----------



## harlock328

Going to request new screen; found thread on their forum with user with same problem. https://forum.aquacomputer.de/weitere-foren/english-forum/106224-holy-lack-of-quality-control-aquaero-6-xt-blue/

Now I have to figure out how to connect everything 3 powerajust3 ultra's, AQC d5 usb, farbwerk, 12 fans(4 are PWMs) AQC res with AQC d5top and two AQC RGBs in it, two mps 400 flow meters, 4 temp inline temp sensors and finally AQC RGB LED strip (cut into two pieces)









Thanks everyone for the replies/help


----------



## ruffhi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dagamus NM*
> 
> You wouldn't happen to know of an option for mounting a 5.25" device sideways in a case so that I can view it through the window? I don't have any space in the front of my cases to mount my aquaero. I have the case turned sideways so having it on the front is somewhat counterproductive as far as the display goes.


It is possible with some measurements and a few new screw holes (pic from 'Set and Forget' build log in sig) ...


----------



## chas1723

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chas1723*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *GTXJackBauer*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *chas1723*
> 
> I am getting what sounds like coil whine off of channel 4 of my Aquaero 6 Pro. That channel is running 3 140mm Phanteks case fans by voltage control. They are 3 pin fans and came with my Primo case. If I unhook those 3 from the 6 Pro it becomes quiet. It starts making a noise from about 35% to 95%. Outside of that it is fine. What could be causing this?
> 
> 
> 
> Have you tested to see each individual fan in case that is the one making the noise?
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> It is most definitely the aquaero. Unplugging any one of the 3 fans lowers the sound. Unplugging 2 makes it go away completely.
> 
> Sent from my VS986 using Tapatalk
Click to expand...

Plugging in PWM fans instead of voltage controlled fans also makes the coil whine go away. Got 3 140 mm PWM fans on order. Guess I'm the only one who has been having issues like this.

Sent from my VS986 using Tapatalk


----------



## Dagamus NM

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ruffhi*
> 
> It is possible with some measurements and a few new screw holes (pic from 'Set and Forget' build log in sig) ...


That looks like a good method. Thank you for the suggestion. I will drill some holes in the fan hole cover plates on the bottom of my case.


----------



## alstorm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dagamus NM*
> 
> That looks like a good method. Thank you for the suggestion. I will drill some holes in the fan hole cover plates on the bottom of my case.


other possible options could also be caselab mounts or something like mecaano


----------



## ruffhi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dagamus NM*
> 
> That looks like a good method. Thank you for the suggestion. I will drill some holes in the fan hole cover plates on the bottom of my case.


Note that the holes you see are through the fan cover ... but the holes at the other end are through the case.


----------



## NE0XY

Hi,

I finally got around to try and install the Farbwek + 2 Aquacomputer RGB strips but the strips don't light up. I can see the Farbwerk in the aquasuite menu. But nothing is happening when I try to change the settings etc.

The Farbwerks blue LED is lighting up though.

I think I might not have pushed the connector onto the LEDs far enough? Anyone know how far I should push them? I'm afraid they'll break.

Thanks


----------



## GTXJackBauer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NE0XY*
> 
> Hi,
> 
> I finally got around to try and install the Farbwek + 2 Aquacomputer RGB strips but the strips don't light up. I can see the Farbwerk in the aquasuite menu. But nothing is happening when I try to change the settings etc.
> 
> The Farbwerks blue LED is lighting up though.
> 
> I think I might not have pushed the connector onto the LEDs far enough? Anyone know how far I should push them? I'm afraid they'll break.
> 
> Thanks


How long is each strip per channel?

Are the connectors matched up with the cable to the farbwerk?

Have you checked to see if the connectors have gone through?

Best way I have done it is use the bottom of the strip to puncture through than from the top.


----------



## NE0XY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GTXJackBauer*
> 
> How long is each strip per channel?
> 
> Are the connectors matched up with the cable to the farbwerk?
> 
> Have you checked to see if the connectors have gone through?
> 
> Best way I have done it is use the bottom of the strip to puncture through than from the top.


The LED strips are 50cm long.

I'm not sure what you mean with the rest of the questions though, but thank you for the response.

This is the strip that I'm using: http://www.aquatuning.co.uk/modding/leds/19344/aquacomputer-rgb-led-strip-weiss-laenge-50cm


----------



## GTXJackBauer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NE0XY*
> 
> The LED strips are 50cm long.
> 
> I'm not sure what you mean with the rest of the questions though, but thank you for the response.
> 
> This is the strip that I'm using: http://www.aquatuning.co.uk/modding/leds/19344/aquacomputer-rgb-led-strip-weiss-laenge-50cm


Alright, so you're good on each channel.

Now the question is, if the wires are properly connected to the LED strips and match the connectors to the Farbwerk. You know Power, Red, Blue, Green, etc. Make sure the cable's teeth are making contact with the LED strips.


----------



## Methodical

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> http://www.caselabs-store.com/flex-bay-5-25-device-mount-short-nonconforming/


Thanks for this. My question was answered before asked.


----------



## sinnedone

Quick question about the aquasuite software. I am currently using the 2014 version 2.3, any reason to upgrade to the latest version?

Last time I checked the current version it said it would flash a firmware update to my 5LT and reset settings so I never upgraded. Just want to know if I am missing something?


----------



## JasonMorris

You can save your settings before flashing it and reload afterwards. Generally always best to be on latest version.


----------



## InfoSeeker

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JasonMorris*
> 
> You can save your settings before flashing it and reload afterwards. Generally always best to be on latest version.


Here is the introductory post for version 2015-9.

For me, one of the best changes was adding the ability to save/backup the aquaero settings to disk.

As to undoing a firmware update, I don't believe that is available.


----------



## CookieSayWhat

Having a some what minor issue. I have an Aquero 6 and I'm running 3 D5's and a USB high flow sensor off the Aquabus system (all work fine). When I try to run my farbwerk and 2 power adjusts off of the aquabus system they don't show up. I assigned them unique aquabus ID's but they only work with the USB connection. The "preferred aquabus connection" switch isn't there and I don't know if it's supposed to be. Any help would be appreciated.


----------



## iCrap

Is it at all possible to switch the two power outputs on and off via IR? I am using those two outputs for LED strips and really want to be able to toggle them on and off with my remote









I can't find any option like that at all, any possibility of it being added as a feature?


----------



## rolldog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GTXJackBauer*
> 
> Performance-pcs, aquatuning and the manufacturers themselves in Germany, Aquacomputer.


ModMyMods also carries the complete Aqua Computer line.


----------



## GTXJackBauer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rolldog*
> 
> ModMyMods also carries the complete Aqua Computer line.


+1 Thank you for that. Almost forgot!


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rolldog*
> 
> ModMyMods also carries the complete Aqua Computer line.


I will have to check out their prices as I have never bought anything from them.


----------



## Methodical

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ruffhi*
> 
> It is possible with some measurements and a few new screw holes (pic from 'Set and Forget' build log in sig) ...


Do you happen to have a full size photo of your case and the fan controller? I'd like to see how it's installed/looks.

Thanks


----------



## WhiteWulfe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Methodical*
> 
> Do you happen to have a full size photo of your case and the fan controller? I'd like to see how it's installed/looks.
> 
> Thanks


It looks like some sort of CaseLabs case with repurposed short mounting brackets that have an extra hole tapped into them, and holes for rivets were drilled into the floor plate.

I'm also curious about what the whole rig looks like!


----------



## Dagamus NM

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WhiteWulfe*
> 
> It looks like some sort of CaseLabs case with repurposed short mounting brackets that have an extra hole tapped into them, and holes for rivets were drilled into the floor plate.
> 
> I'm also curious about what the whole rig looks like!


He posted a link to that build a couple of pages back. I will be doing that but with the long mounts to bring the aquaero up to where I can see it through the side window of the sm8.


----------



## ruffhi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Methodical*
> 
> Do you happen to have a full size photo of your case and the fan controller? I'd like to see how it's installed/looks.
> 
> Thanks


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WhiteWulfe*
> 
> It looks like some sort of CaseLabs case with repurposed short mounting brackets that have an extra hole tapped into them, and holes for rivets were drilled into the floor plate.
> 
> I'm also curious about what the whole rig looks like!


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dagamus NM*
> 
> He posted a link to that build a couple of pages back.


The fan controller is in my NAS (Set & Forget - see link in my sig). I turned all of the fans down to 700RPM (from 1000) and the temps jumped noticiable (2°C on the mobo and about the same delta on the CPUs, HDDs). I want to keep the HDDs under 30°C (which they are at the moment) so it looks like I might be running different fan speeds during winter and summer. Or ... I might find that I am too lazy to adjust and just put them all back to 1000RPM.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dagamus NM*
> 
> I will be doing that but with the long mounts to bring the aquaero up to where I can see it through the side window of the sm8.


I'm planning an S5 build and trying to work out if the Aquaero will end up in the pedestal, case flex-bay or jury-rigged as per my above fan controller. Please post info when you have positioned your Aquaero.


----------



## rolldog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> I will have to check out their prices as I have never bought anything from them.


They're great. I just recently found out that it was started by Joe, who used to work for FrozenCPU and is very knowledgable but unfortunately was working for an idiot. He's trying to start something of his own now. We spoke the other day, and he said they're gradually increasing their product line. They carry the Darkside product line too, so if you live in the US, it's much cheaper shipping than buying directly from Daz.


----------



## seross69

What are the 4 pin distribution boards that do not have the PMW line broke so that I can use it for the aquabus?? want to have 4 wire distribution..


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> What are the 4 pin distribution boards that do not have the PMW line broke so that I can use it for the aquabus?? want to have 4 wire distribution..


All the modmytoys ones have all 4 lines run for each header.

It's actually the tach line that would be run to only 1 header for most of the usual PWM splitters.

D.


----------



## CookieSayWhat

I've used the ModMyToy's 4way PWM splitter for all of my aquabus extra's. Works perfect.


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CookieSayWhat*
> 
> I've used the ModMyToy's 4way PWM splitter for all of my aquabus extra's. Works perfect.


Yep, they're great. Very flexible in the applications they suit either stock or after very simple mod. As Darlene says, its the RPM line that is cut normally.

I use a simple six way model for my Aquabus. Its great having a single point and makes cable org super easy.


----------



## seross69

Thanks everyone I thought it was the modmytoys that was like this!! I guess i had a brain fart with saying the pmw line!!!! ?


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> All the modmytoys ones have all 4 lines run for each header.
> 
> It's actually the tach line that would be run to only 1 header for most of the usual PWM splitters.
> 
> D.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CookieSayWhat*
> 
> I've used the ModMyToy's 4way PWM splitter for all of my aquabus extra's. Works perfect.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> Yep, they're great. Very flexible in the applications they suit either stock or after very simple mod. As Darlene says, its the RPM line that is cut normally.
> 
> I use a simple six way model for my Aquabus. Its great having a single point and makes cable org super easy.


Thanks everyone I thought it was the modmytoys that was like this!! I guess i had a brain fart with saying the pmw line!!!! ?


----------



## 10Wredny

Hi guys, actually i've plugged AC D5 Pump into Aquaero 5 LT by Aquabus. How can i connect more Aquabus devices to Aquaero? there are no Aquabus ports on AQ...


----------



## CookieSayWhat

You need to get a splitter of sorts. You can either buy one from aquacomputer or you can get a pwm splitter, like the ones from ModMyToys and then the hiport on the Aquaero to that and then run your D5 and other extra's off of that.


----------



## 10Wredny

Can you show me that splitter?


----------



## CookieSayWhat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *10Wredny*
> 
> Can you show me that splitter?


http://www.performance-pcs.com/electrical-case-accessories/modmytoys-4-pin-pwm-power-distribution-pcb-6-way-block.html#Details

This is the six way splitter but they have a 4 and 8 way splitter too.


----------



## 10Wredny

So its normal 4pin PWM splitter? nothing special?


----------



## ruffhi

does someone have the dimensions on these 6-way low profile power distribution blocks?

I'm trying to decide if I wnat to use these or the Silverstonetek ones [Dimension: 54mm (W) x 19mm (H) x 40mm (D)].

I prefer the modmytoys version as I only have 6 fans to run, I need to provide the cables (ie I have control over the cable length) but I don't want it to be 'huge'.


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ruffhi*
> 
> does someone have the dimensions on these 6-way low profile power distribution blocks?
> 
> I'm trying to decide if I wnat to use these or the Silverstonetek ones [Dimension: 54mm (W) x 19mm (H) x 40mm (D)].
> 
> I prefer the modmytoys version as I only have 6 fans to run, I need to provide the cables (ie I have control over the cable length) but I don't want it to be 'huge'.


Trust me, you want the Silverstone. The low profile modmytoys models work great but they have really spaced out the ports and the PCB takes up tripple the surface area of the CPF04. They look even bigger behind motherboard tray trying to find room for them.


----------



## ruffhi

@Jakusonfire - thanks for the pic (+1 REP). I d/l it and loaded it up in GIMP and then tried to calculate the 6-fan version's length ...



The green line is 229 pixels long = 54mm
The red line is 80 pixels long
The pink line is 510 pixels lone

So ... a 6-fan version would be 430 pixels long or ... 101mm long. It looks a little wider than the silverstonetek one ... say 45mm ... but it doesn't look as high. I think I have the room to spare given that I am planning on throwing these on the top (or bottom) of a 60mm wide radiator.

It looks like you have snipped the shorter non-fan connection wire on the non-controller connection - what is that all about?


----------



## Jakusonfire

The snipped connections are the extra RPM lines. Its best to just have one connected or the control device gets confused by multiple overlapping signals. The lines are on the top like that to form a basic multi layer PCB because the lines have to cross over each other to get the fan headers arranged like they are. The longer wire is the PWM wire and the power circuits are on the underside.

There was some perspective distortion in the other pic



Sitting on top, edge to edge.



With fan connectors and SATA power attached the modmytoys is just barely lower.


----------



## ruffhi

What a sec ... where are the cables for the silverstone? I guess I could snip and shorten those ... then the other one loses one of its +pluses.


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ruffhi*
> 
> What a sec ... where are the cables for the silverstone? I guess I could snip and shorten those ... then the other one loses one of its +pluses.


That is just the shell of the CPF04 to show the size. I don't follow what you are saying in the rest of it?

Edit: Never mind I misread.


----------



## InfoSeeker

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ruffhi*
> 
> does someone have the dimensions on these 6-way low profile power distribution blocks?
> 
> I'm trying to decide if I wnat to use these or the Silverstonetek ones [Dimension: 54mm (W) x 19mm (H) x 40mm (D)].
> 
> I prefer the modmytoys version as I only have 6 fans to run, I need to provide the cables (ie I have control over the cable length) but I don't want it to be 'huge'.


Also look at the Phanteks PWM Fan Hub.
Dimensions: 38mm x 17.5mm x 46mm (WxHxD)
for 6 fans
only Fan-1 reports RPM
accepts SATA plug for external fan power direct from PSU
cost $15 + ~$6 shipping (to Texas, USA)
manual


----------



## ruffhi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *InfoSeeker*
> 
> Also look at the Phanteks PWM Fan Hub.
> Dimensions: 38mm x 17.5mm x 46mm (WxHxD)
> for 6 fans
> only Fan-1 reports RPM
> accepts SATA plug for external fan power direct from PSU
> cost $15 + ~$6 shipping (to Texas, USA)
> manual


Am I reading this correctly ... is this a controller for 3-pin fans that converts the PWM signal from the 4-pin input (source either mobo or something like an Aquaero) to voltage control for the fans with the power coming from the PSU?


----------



## InfoSeeker

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ruffhi*
> 
> Am I reading this correctly ... is this a controller for 3-pin fans that converts the PWM signal from the 4-pin input (source either mobo or something like an Aquaero) to voltage control for the fans with the power coming from the PSU?


The way I read it, it is a 4-pin PWM hub.

The manual says to not use the SATA power connector IF the 4-pin PWM control plug is attached to a non-PWM, voltage controlled terminal on the mobo, since the fans will run at 100% with the full 12 volts applied.


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ruffhi*
> 
> Am I reading this correctly ... is this a controller for 3-pin fans that converts the PWM signal from the 4-pin input (source either mobo or something like an Aquaero) to voltage control for the fans with the power coming from the PSU?


Yes, that is how it works. It isn't a PWM hub in the normal sense.


----------



## InfoSeeker

false
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> Yes, that is how it works. It isn't a PWM hub in the normal sense.


I think the manual is poorly written and needs revision to clarify what it says.
But I see two options depending on the fan control source to the hub.

Using the mobo CPU_FAN terminal:
Quote:


> Connecting the 4-pin to CPU_FAN
> For full PWM functionality, Phanteks' PWM hub requires users to connect the 4-pin connector to the "CPU_Fan"
> connector of the motherboard, because all motherboard manufacturers implements a PWM signal modulation
> on this connector. Connect the SATA 12V power to power the PWM hub. Not all motherboards have their CPU_
> Fan connector set on PWM signal modulation by default. Please consult your motherboard documentation for
> this matter.


OR using a mobo fan terminals that is voltage controlled:
Quote:


> Connecting the 4-pin to other 4-pin header (besides the CPU_Fan)
> Other 4-pin connectors can be found on modern motherboards besides the "CPU_Fan" connector (e.g. "CPU_
> Fan2", "CHA_Fan", "OPT_Fan"), however not all motherboard manufacturers implement a true PWM signal modulation
> onto these connectors. These type of 4-pin connectors modulate the RPM by voltage, which has a smaller
> control range compared to modulation by true PWM signal.
> The 12V SATA power cable can not be used to power the PWM hub if connecting to these types of 4-pin connectors,
> due to the interference with the RPM regulation by voltage (resulting in the fans running on full RPM). The
> PWM hub will draw its power from the 4-pin connector, which is limited to a total device consuming 30W in total.


----------



## Mads1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> Yes, that is how it works. It isn't a PWM hub in the normal sense.


So would i not need the power from sata connector if i connect 3 pwm fans to this then the pwm cable to aquaero 6 xt


----------



## InfoSeeker

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mads1*
> 
> So would i not need the power from sata connector if i connect 3 pwm fans to this then the pwm cable to aquaero 6 xt


Correct, the SATA power is optional with PWM modulated fans.

The SATA power should NOT be used with voltage regulated fans.


----------



## Mads1

So the modmytoys should work for me then.


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mads1*
> 
> So would i not need the power from sata connector if i connect 3 pwm fans to this then the pwm cable to aquaero 6 xt


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *InfoSeeker*
> 
> Correct, the SATA power is optional with PWM modulated fans.
> 
> The SATA power should NOT be used with voltage regulated fans.


You re misunderstanding slightly. The Phantecs hub is not a normal PWM fan hub because it does not support PWM fans ... only voltage controlled fans.

When the Sata power is connected it takes a PWM signal and converts it to a type of basic voltage control, whereby the PWM signal is used to rapidly switch the 12V power on and off. Just like really cheap high wattage fan controllers that people complain makes their fans buzz. It is called PWM modulation. It is like the 2 pin power outputs on the Aquaero.

Without the Sata power it is just a normal 3 pin fan splitter.

A PWM hub takes a PWM signal and splits it to many PWM fans.


----------



## InfoSeeker

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> You re misunderstanding slightly. The Phantecs hub is not a normal PWM fan hub because it does not support PWM fans ... only voltage controlled fans.
> 
> When the Sata power is connected it takes a PWM signal and converts it to a type of basic voltage control, whereby the PWM signal is used to rapidly switch the 12V power on and off. Just like really cheap high wattage fan controllers that people complain makes their fans buzz. It is called PWM modulation. It is like the 2 pin power outputs on the Aquaero.
> 
> Without the Sata power it is just a normal 3 pin fan splitter.
> 
> A PWM hub takes a PWM signal and splits it to many PWM fans.


I do not do this lightly, but I am going to disagree with you Jakus... I did not misunderstand slightly, I completely misunderstood... no sugar coating.
If I had just looked at the device closer I would have seen that the fan output terminals have only 3 pins, so yea, it is not full PWM.

Glad I brought it up and got corrected, it was on my parts list.

Thank you all.


----------



## CookieSayWhat

Probably a silly question but can you connect two aq6 to the same computer without making one a slave unit?


----------



## Mega Man

Yes, but they would operate independently and would have minimal ability to talk to each other (hwinfo can show certain aq status )


----------



## CookieSayWhat

Thank you for the help.

I can't really get HWMonitor or Open HW to talk to aquasuite, and a very limited amount of communication with A64. Don't know what that's about.


----------



## iBruce

Finally back in stock the AquaComputer 2-pole pwm power connectors for Aquaero.

Thanks PPCS









http://s296.photobucket.com/user/iBruceEVGA/media/IMG_4807_zpss3s2qmea.jpg.html


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CookieSayWhat*
> 
> Thank you for the help.
> 
> I can't really get HWMonitor or Open HW to talk to aquasuite, and a very limited amount of communication with A64. Don't know what that's about.


both of those programs are IMO junk, try hwinfo !


----------



## iBruce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> both of those programs are IMO junk, try hwinfo !


http://www.hwinfo.com/download.php


----------



## CookieSayWhat

Thank you for the program! Wow works wonders now!!!


----------



## Mega Man

Aida is normally good ( I missed that and read Aquasuite ) but you have to pay for it iirc

And I still prefer hwinfo


----------



## Mystriss

I love AIDA64 it lets me do this fully customized onscreen monitor with all my AQ info's:

 

(I don't have a loop hooked up for various lazy reasons, but I had it all displaying on a test loop a while back and it's beautiful







)


----------



## iBruce

Why doesn't AquaComputer produce it's own Hardware Monitoring Software that feeds the Aquaero 6?

...and the PowerAdjust 3s?

Why do we need to rely on 3rd parties?























http://s296.photobucket.com/user/iBruceEVGA/media/IMG_4045_zps58e90nym.jpg.html


----------



## InfoSeeker

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iBruce*
> 
> Why doesn't AquaComputer produce it's own Hardware Monitoring Software that feeds the Aquaero 6?
> 
> ...and the PowerAdjust 3s?
> 
> Why do we need to rely on 3rd parties?


Aquacomputer specializes in water cooling.

I am seriously impressed that aquasuite is designed to interface with 3rd party software, to not only control the aquaero, but also to drive aquasuite's beautiful display gauges, bar graphs, and custom objects.


----------



## iBruce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *InfoSeeker*
> 
> Aquacomputer specializes in water cooling.
> 
> I am seriously impressed that aquasuite is designed to interface with 3rd party software, to not only control the aquaero, but also to drive aquasuite's beautiful display gauges, bar graphs, and custom objects.


Also very impressed.

But why can't they hire Dr. VSG to create AquaCode and some first person sensing software, so we don't have to rely on these other groups waiting to figure out which one works with the new OS?

It would be a nice alternative.


----------



## Mega Man

just use hwinfo, it always works


----------



## GTXJackBauer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> just use hwinfo, it always works


+1 I have been using this since day one.

Only technical issue I have is finding a way to post my CPU Fan header readings of my Koolance Flow meter. All I get is temp data from HWinfo on AQ suite.


----------



## Jflisk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GTXJackBauer*
> 
> +1 I have been using this since day one.
> 
> Only technical issue I have is finding a way to post my CPU Fan header readings of my Koolance Flow meter. All I get is temp data from HWinfo on AQ suite.


You mean this
http://koolance.com/adt-fm03-flow-meter-frequency-adapter

Changes flowmeter pulses to readable fan signals. Plug it into the flow sensor port on the aquacompter . Conversion is say 3200.00 is 320 lph


----------



## iBruce

But "AquaCode Sensing" sounds so cool.

Shoggy, please make it so.









remember when we used to call him Shawgdawg?


----------



## GTXJackBauer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jflisk*
> 
> You mean this
> http://koolance.com/adt-fm03-flow-meter-frequency-adapter
> 
> Changes flowmeter pulses to readable fan signals. Plug it into the flow sensor port on the aquacompter . Conversion is say 3200.00 is 320 lph


I actually use this one. I was told not to connect that flow meter's 3-pin to AQ 6's flow header if I wanted to keep my AQ 6 around. So I took the advise and didn't connect to it. I took the 3-pin fan header (Tach) from the Koolance and plugged it into my CPU Fan Header on my MB. I can't get anything more than temps on the HWinfo when I import readings for the AQ suite.


----------



## Jflisk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GTXJackBauer*
> 
> I actually use this one. I was told not to connect that flow meter's 3-pin to AQ 6's flow header if I wanted to keep my AQ 6 around. So I took the advise and didn't connect to it. I took the 3-pin fan header (Tach) from the Koolance and plugged it into my CPU Fan Header on my MB. I can't get anything more than temps on the HWinfo when I import readings for the AQ suite.


I have Koolance flowmeter to adapter > to flow sensor port on aquacomputer 5 . I have my readings with no problems or actually it reads 3200.00 that translates to 320 LPH . There is a calibration value I set it at 197.

You can reference here for using the Koolance flow sensor by itself with just 2 wires( the 2 wires have to be split to the 1st and 3rd pin) have not tried it and I am sure you will need to figure out the polarity but uses pin 1 and 3 1=gnd 3 =signal 197 is the calibration value.

http://forum.aquacomputer.de/weitere-foren/english-forum/p1292846-aquaero-with-2-wire-flow-meter/?highlight=koolance#post1292846

@Jakusonfire may be able to help you . Here is a post he did
http://www.overclock.net/t/1417899/koolance-flow-rate-meter-with-aquaero-5


----------



## Ironsmack

Hey all,

Managed to find my other G 1/4 temp probe and plumbed it in my loop.

Now, i did some test (IBT, Valley, etc) and played games and found out that my water temp varies from 8C to 9.5C the most. This is from idle to load.

Now my problem is, the Aquaero suite seems to have a minimum of 15C temp delta. If i set my temp delta anything less than 15C difference, then save it - It reverts back to a 15C temp delta.

Is this the default settings or am i doing something wrong?

Here's how i set it up:

*Controller(s)*:

_Min temp: 7.5C
Max temp 9.0C
Min power: 13%
Max power: 100%_

*Fans:*

_Min power: 16%
Max power: 89%_

Im using an Aquaero 5LT with 2004 F/W.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ironsmack*
> 
> Hey all,
> 
> Managed to find my other G 1/4 temp probe and plumbed it in my loop.
> 
> Now, i did some test (IBT, Valley, etc) and played games and found out that my water temp varies from 8C to 9.5C the most. This is from idle to load.
> 
> Now my problem is, the Aquaero suite seems to have a minimum of 15C temp delta. If i set my temp delta anything less than 15C difference, then save it - It reverts back to a 15C temp delta.
> 
> Is this the default settings or am i doing something wrong?
> 
> Here's how i set it up:
> 
> *Controller(s)*:
> 
> _Min temp: 7.5C
> Max temp 9.0C
> Min power: 13%
> Max power: 100%_
> 
> *Fans:*
> 
> _Min power: 16%
> Max power: 89%_
> 
> Im using an Aquaero 5LT with 2004 F/W.


If you're wanting to control fan speed based on Delta t, you have to have at least one ambient air temp sensor, and then create a virtual sensor, Delta t, by subtracting the ambient from the water temp, and then use the new virtual sensor as the control variable for the fan curve.


----------



## hisXLNC

Ok guys, need your help here. I have this rgb strip

Aqua_Computer_Webshop_-_Aqua_Computer_RGB_LED_stri_2016-01-1.png 370k .png file


and this connector

connecter.png 405k .png file


so ive attached the strip inside the white end. cant figure out how to attach the black end to the aquaero and make it work


----------



## Daggi

Hi
It would be awesome to have a passive heat sink for the Farbwerk. I know it's not needed but it would look much better







Like the Poweradjust 3 with the heat sink


----------



## Barefooter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hisXLNC*
> 
> Ok guys, need your help here. I have this rgb strip
> 
> Aqua_Computer_Webshop_-_Aqua_Computer_RGB_LED_stri_2016-01-1.png 370k .png file
> 
> 
> and this connector
> 
> connecter.png 405k .png file
> 
> 
> so ive attached the strip inside the white end. cant figure out how to attach the black end to the aquaero and make it work


You need a Farbwerk to hook that RGB strip to.


----------



## hisXLNC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Barefooter*
> 
> You need a Farbwerk to hook that RGB strip to.


is there a way to connect the rgb strips straight to the aquaero 6, or does it not handle rgb?


----------



## GTXJackBauer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hisXLNC*
> 
> is there a way to connect the rgb strips straight to the aquaero 6, or does it not handle rgb?


The AQ 6 only works with this. You need a Farbwerk to control those LEDs as already said.


----------



## harlock328

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *harlock328*
> 
> Going to request new screen; found thread on their forum with user with same problem. https://forum.aquacomputer.de/weitere-foren/english-forum/106224-holy-lack-of-quality-control-aquaero-6-xt-blue/
> 
> Now I have to figure out how to connect everything 3 powerajust3 ultra's, AQC d5 usb, farbwerk, 12 fans(4 are PWMs) AQC res with AQC d5top and two AQC RGBs in it, two mps 400 flow meters, 4 temp inline temp sensors and finally AQC RGB LED strip (cut into two pieces)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks everyone for the replies/help


follow-up on screen issue. Contacted AQC and they quickly shipped out a new screen. This one has no damage







Excellent support from AQC.


----------



## harlock328

Since AQ only has one RGB input; can I use a y-adapter/splitter to connect other RGBs then connect the cable to the AQ?


----------



## Ironsmack

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> If you're wanting to control fan speed based on Delta t, you have to have at least one ambient air temp sensor, and then create a virtual sensor, Delta t, by subtracting the ambient from the water temp, and then use the new virtual sensor as the control variable for the fan curve.


Forgot to mention, i do have an ambient sensor and a threaded sensor.

Created the virtual sensor and it works well.

However, there's only a 1.5C difference between idle and load and for some reason, i can't go less than that.

Does the Aquaero have a 1.5C minimum temp difference?


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *harlock328*
> 
> Since AQ only has one RGB input; can I use a y-adapter/splitter to connect other RGBs then connect the cable to the AQ?


Not generally recommended. The rgb out put has very low power output, and is only good for like ONE [1] led


----------



## InfoSeeker

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ironsmack*
> 
> Forgot to mention, i do have an ambient sensor and a threaded sensor.
> 
> Created the virtual sensor and it works well.
> 
> However, there's only a 1.5C difference between idle and load and for some reason, i can't go less than that.
> 
> Does the Aquaero have a 1.5C minimum temp difference?


No minimum temperature difference... it can go negative.
Make sure your virtual temperature sensor mode is set to 'temperature difference' or 'Absolute temperature difference', not 'average'.


----------



## Ironsmack

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *InfoSeeker*
> 
> No minimum temperature difference... it can go negative.
> Make sure your virtual temperature sensor mode is set to 'temperature difference' or 'Absolute temperature difference', not 'average'.


Yup, virtual sensor is set to Absolute temp difference.

It doesnt matter if i set it to temp difference, or Absolute temp difference - its still the same outcome. I can't go below 1.5C temp difference.

I even tried it on my HTPC (which uses a threaded and ambient temp sensor) and the same outcome. I can't go below 1.5C temp difference.

Here's a screenshot of my gaming rig:


----------



## Edge0fsanity

anyone know if its possible to shut off a pump with the aquaero at idle and have it turn on once water temps hit a certain temp? I just installed 2x ac d5 pumps in series which are controlled by an aquaero 6 pro via aquabus. Would like to turn one off to cut down on noise at idle.


----------



## InfoSeeker

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ironsmack*
> 
> Hey all,
> 
> Managed to find my other G 1/4 temp probe and plumbed it in my loop.
> 
> Now, i did some test (IBT, Valley, etc) and played games and found out that my water temp varies from 8C to 9.5C the most. This is from idle to load.
> 
> Now my problem is, the Aquaero suite seems to have a minimum of 15C temp delta. If i set my temp delta anything less than 15C difference, then save it - It reverts back to a 15C temp delta.
> 
> Is this the default settings or am i doing something wrong?
> 
> Here's how i set it up:
> 
> *Controller(s)*:
> 
> _Min temp: 7.5C
> Max temp 9.0C
> Min power: 13%
> Max power: 100%_
> 
> *Fans:*
> 
> _Min power: 16%
> Max power: 89%_
> 
> Im using an Aquaero 5LT with 2004 F/W.


Ok, your virtual sensor is good.,

Are you talking about setting up a curve controller?
Under your *Controller(s)* comment, what do the _min/max power_ settings refer to?

Where are you seeing the 15C temp delta barrier you cannot break?


----------



## InfoSeeker

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Edge0fsanity*
> 
> anyone know if its possible to shut off a pump with the aquaero at idle and have it turn on once water temps hit a certain temp? I just installed 2x ac d5 pumps in series which are controlled by an aquaero 6 pro via aquabus. Would like to turn one off to cut down on noise at idle.


Depends on the d5 pump:
If it is the D5 pump motor with speed signal you can only turn it down to the lowest setting.
The D5 pump motor with USB and aquabus interface or the D5 pump motor with PWM input and speed signal may go to zero with an aquasuite controller, though I have never tried that.

It would be much better to keep both pumps running, and slow them both down equally until you reach your desired flow rate. If you have just one of the two running, you will add considerable restriction and the remaining pump will have to run faster to overcome it.


----------



## Edge0fsanity

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *InfoSeeker*
> 
> Depends on the d5 pump:
> If it is the D5 pump motor with speed signal you can only turn it down to the lowest setting.
> The D5 pump motor with USB and aquabus interface or the D5 pump motor with PWM input and speed signal may go to zero with an aquasuite controller, though I have never tried that.
> 
> It would be much better to keep both pumps running, and slow them both down equally until you reach your desired flow rate. If you have just one of the two running, you will add considerable restriction and the remaining pump will have to run faster to overcome it.


they're both d5 pumps with usb and aquabus interface. I have them set on a curve based on water temp atm. Both pumps set at 0% will run ~1900rpm. Still audible over my fans at idle speeds. I did pretty extensive testing last night and this morning to get load speeds dialed in correctly. Its possible that shutting one pump off may cause enough restriction to cause temp issues at idle but i'd still like to test it and find out if its possible.


----------



## Jakusonfire

No you can't turn the pumps off. They work like all other d5 varios and always run between 1800 and 4800rpm.
If the pumps are noisy at min speed you need to look at mounting them better to stop vibration causing other things to rattle because the pumps themselves are actually very quiet.


----------



## Edge0fsanity

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> No you can't turn the pumps off. They work like all other d5 varios and always run between 1800 and 4800rpm.
> If the pumps are noisy at min speed you need to look at mounting them better to do vibration causing other things to rattle because the pumps themselves are actually very quiet.


Its not that they're very loud, i'm just being very picky about noise. I'm using ek revo d5 pump bodies with their anti vibration mounting system. Pumps are both mounted onto the chassis. There is no rattling or vibration. Just standard pump whine. I could turn my fans up from 700 to 900 rpm and completely drown out of the noise. If its not a feature of the aquaero to turn one off i'll just live with it.


----------



## rolldog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hisXLNC*
> 
> Ok guys, need your help here. I have this rgb strip
> 
> Aqua_Computer_Webshop_-_Aqua_Computer_RGB_LED_stri_2016-01-1.png 370k .png file
> 
> 
> and this connector
> 
> connecter.png 405k .png file
> 
> 
> so ive attached the strip inside the white end. cant figure out how to attach the black end to the aquaero and make it work


You need to hook it to a Farbwerk controller, not the Aquaero.


----------



## Ironsmack

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *InfoSeeker*
> 
> Ok, your virtual sensor is good.,
> 
> Are you talking about setting up a curve controller?
> Under your *Controller(s)* comment, what do the _min/max power_ settings refer to?
> 
> Where are you seeing the 15C temp delta barrier you cannot break?


Under the *curve controller*, min/max is my settings for power.

Im missing a decimal point - 15C . Supposed to be _1.5C_ temp delta barrier.

So under the curve controller, my target temp is between 8C to 9C. However, when i set it as that - Aquaero reverts it back to _8C to 9.5C_. All the time.

It doesn't matter what temp i set it too, its always a minimum of 1.5C delta. I set the same target temp on my HTPC and its always 1.5C delta temp. No matter what.


----------



## InfoSeeker

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ironsmack*
> 
> Under the *curve controller*, min/max is my settings for power.
> 
> Im missing a decimal point - 15C . Supposed to be _1.5C_ temp delta barrier.
> 
> So under the curve controller, my target temp is between 8C to 9C. However, when i set it as that - Aquaero reverts it back to _8C to 9.5C_. All the time.
> 
> It doesn't matter what temp i set it too, its always a minimum of 1.5C delta. I set the same target temp on my HTPC and its always 1.5C delta temp. No matter what.


I made a test controller, and had the same result... it appears there is a minimum temperature delta of 1.5° built in.
It probably has to do with the resolution capabilities of the controller/aquaero.


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ironsmack*
> 
> Under the *curve controller*, min/max is my settings for power.
> 
> Im missing a decimal point - 15C . Supposed to be _1.5C_ temp delta barrier.
> 
> So under the curve controller, my target temp is between 8C to 9C. However, when i set it as that - Aquaero reverts it back to _8C to 9.5C_. All the time.
> 
> It doesn't matter what temp i set it too, its always a minimum of 1.5C delta. I set the same target temp on my HTPC and its always 1.5C delta temp. No matter what.


If you only have a 1.5 temp difference I would be suspicious that maybe something isn't measuring correctly. Ambient sensors can be easily affected by being too close to heat sources and corrupted by radiant heat or warmed airflow. The ambient sensor should not change its value notably between idle and load.

With that small a difference one of the other controller types would probably make more sense.


----------



## rolldog

I was starting to sleeve some of my cables that came with the Aquaero, Poweradjusts, Farbwerk, etc, but after snipping away the heatshrink on one of the USB cables I noticed it was shielded. I'm assuming it's shielded for a reason, but can any of the cables for the Aquaero be sleeved or am I going to run into this with all of them?


----------



## Ironsmack

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *InfoSeeker*
> 
> I made a test controller, and had the same result... it appears there is a minimum temperature delta of 1.5° built in.
> It probably has to do with the resolution capabilities of the controller/aquaero.


Ahhh, well thanks for confirming it









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> If you only have a 1.5 temp difference I would be suspicious that maybe something isn't measuring correctly. Ambient sensors can be easily affected by being too close to heat sources and corrupted by radiant heat or warmed airflow. The ambient sensor should not change its value notably between idle and load.
> 
> With that small a difference one of the other controller types would probably make more sense.


The Ambient sensor is located underneath my case, just close to the intake fans of the bottom rad. So it'll never be subjected to the heat coming out of the rad.

What do you mean other controller type?


----------



## jsutter71

I have a couple requests from Aquacomputer regarding the RGB illumination module. The sleeving is to short and have discovered how easy it is to break the LED from the cable during routing. I extended the sleeving to cover up the pins in my situation. Secondly I think the cable is to short. The USB and Aqua cables are ridiculously to long but this cable is only 50cm. I have to use and extension cable for routing. Also It would be nice if I didn't have to go to an outside vendor for a acrylic plug in order to mount it. I do realize that Aquacomputer does sell them but impossible to find in the US. Aquacomputer overcharges for shipping to the US. I finally purchased a plug from performance.pcs. I used silicone to secure the LED inside the cap.


----------



## InfoSeeker

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jsutter71*
> 
> I have a couple requests from Aquacomputer regarding the RGB illumination module. The sleeving is to short and have discovered how easy it is to break the LED from the cable during routing. I extended the sleeving to cover up the pins in my situation. Secondly I think the cable is to short. The USB and Aqua cables are ridiculously to long but this cable is only 50cm. I have to use and extension cable for routing. Also It would be nice if I didn't have to go to an outside vendor for a acrylic plug in order to mount it. I do realize that Aquacomputer does sell them but impossible to find in the US. Aquacomputer overcharges for shipping to the US. I finally purchased a plug from performance.pcs. I used silicone to secure the LED inside the cap.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


It looks to me like you came in on the wrong side of that acrylic stop plug with the LED.
Is it intended to light up the coolant in the tubing or reservoir?


----------



## rolldog

I got my Aquaero installed along with the bezel with my 2 Poweradjusts and Farbwerk controller, but I have a little more work to do before I can actually use anything. I can see the light at the end of the tunnel. Plus, I have my 2 Koolance frequency adapters installed.

I have an extra Farbwerk. I was wondering if I should mount it somewhere inside my case so I can run another 4 sets of RGB LEDs. Not quite sure where I'd run them, but I don't know what I would do with the extra Farbwerk anyway.


----------



## GTXJackBauer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *InfoSeeker*
> 
> It looks to me like you came in on the wrong side of that acrylic stop plug with the LED.
> Is it intended to light up the coolant in the tubing or reservoir?


+1


----------



## rolldog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GTXJackBauer*
> 
> +1


Yep


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rolldog*
> 
> 
> I got my Aquaero installed along with the bezel with my 2 Poweradjusts and Farbwerk controller, but I have a little more work to do before I can actually use anything. I can see the light at the end of the tunnel. Plus, I have my 2 Koolance frequency adapters installed.
> 
> I have an extra Farbwerk. I was wondering if I should mount it somewhere inside my case so I can run another 4 sets of RGB LEDs. Not quite sure where I'd run them, but I don't know what I would do with the extra Farbwerk anyway.


Looking good . . . . but

Have you checked that your extended top fits with that tube above the fan . . . .

May need to change that routing to go beside the fan, or put the bottom fans on the inside of the case, not on top.

Darlene


----------



## rolldog

Yea, I checked it. Well, I set the top on over everything, but I didn't push it down to see if there was enough room. If the top hits those fittings, I think you're right. I'll have to put the fans on the underside of my case. That will make it the 3rd time I would have had to take it apart and put it back together. First time I realized the fans were the wrong way, and the second time in when I realized I couldn't keep the rads facing the same direction (when I had the tubing going straight from one rad to the other). Since they don't have ports on either side, I wouldn't have been able to run my loop from my GPUs straight up into the rad.

Those are Monsoon fittings with an LED plug on each end of the tube. When I realized that these EK rads didn't have ports on both sides at each end of the rad, I had to figure something out to run from one rad to another. I don't like the idea of having to run tubing like that, but I didn't have a choice. Since I had to, I might as well make it look different, so I used their 90 degree rotary fittings with LED plugs in each end. Being under the 120mm top, I don't think they'll be seen much anyway, assuming that it does fit. I need to put the top back on and push it down to secure it. Then I'll know for sure if it'll fit.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rolldog*
> 
> Yea, I checked it. Well, I set the top on over everything, but I didn't push it down to see if there was enough room. If the top hits those fittings, I think you're right. I'll have to put the fans on the underside of my case. That will make it the 3rd time I would have had to take it apart and put it back together. First time I realized the fans were the wrong way, and the second time in when I realized I couldn't keep the rads facing the same direction (when I had the tubing going straight from one rad to the other). Since they don't have ports on either side, I wouldn't have been able to run my loop from my GPUs straight up into the rad.
> 
> Those are Monsoon fittings with an LED plug on each end of the tube. When I realized that these EK rads didn't have ports on both sides at each end of the rad, I had to figure something out to run from one rad to another. I don't like the idea of having to run tubing like that, but I didn't have a choice. Since I had to, I might as well make it look different, so I used their 90 degree rotary fittings with LED plugs in each end. Being under the 120mm top, I don't think they'll be seen much anyway, assuming that it does fit. I need to put the top back on and push it down to secure it. Then I'll know for sure if it'll fit.


I'd suggest some Bitspower "Q Plus" fittings at the end of the rads, and run the tubes from the side ports of the Q's and have the top facing ports to fill and bleed thru. since that's the highest point of the loop.

Take some pieces of soft clear tubing with barbs to screw into the top ports for filling and allowing air to bleed out.

You'll need to open the vents on the res's as well to get the level up to where you want it, but ultimately, the only way to get the top rads full is to vent / fill via the top ports.

I just went thru this on my little S8 build, and it worked out very well.


----------



## Costas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> I'd suggest some Bitspower "Q Plus" fittings at the end of the rads


You can also utilise Bitspower's 'T' fittings - Similar to their Q-Blocks but with 3 ports instead of 5. http://www.performance-pcs.com/bitspower-silver-shiny-t-fitting-180-degree-water-cooling-accessory.html

Handy where you do not require the extra 2 ports as it still allows for the one side and top entry but with no need for extra end stops/caps...!


----------



## rolldog

I have both fittings, but if you take a look here, my fill ports are going to connect to my reservoirs. 

I was thinking about buying 2 of these, one for each rad, and replace a stop fitting on each rad. Would that help bleed the line when filling up my loops? http://www.performance-pcs.com/miscellaneous-case-accessories/bitspower-g1-4-silver-shining-air-exhaust-fitting.html


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Costas*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> I'd suggest some Bitspower "Q Plus" fittings at the end of the rads
> 
> 
> 
> You can also utilise Bitspower's 'T' fittings - Similar to their Q-Blocks but with 3 ports instead of 5. http://www.performance-pcs.com/bitspower-silver-shiny-t-fitting-180-degree-water-cooling-accessory.html
> 
> Handy where you do not require the extra 2 ports as it still allows for the one side and top entry but with no need for extra end stops/caps...!
Click to expand...

The "T" fittings might work too, but by the time you buy a couple male to male rotaries, which the "Q" effectively has already built in, (but not as tall) cost wise it's pretty much a wash, and the "Q" won't stick up as high as a "T" on a m-m rotary. . . . Which for my S8 was a critical consideration.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rolldog*
> 
> I have both fittings, but if you take a look here, my fill ports are going to connect to my reservoirs.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I was thinking about buying 2 of these, one for each rad, and replace a stop fitting on each rad. Would that help bleed the line when filling up my loops? http://www.performance-pcs.com/miscellaneous-case-accessories/bitspower-g1-4-silver-shining-air-exhaust-fitting.html


If you fill / bleed thru the rad(s), it will be orders of magnitude easier to get all the air out of the rads and have them full of coolant.

Just leave an inch or so of air space at the top of the res(s) and plug the rad.

If you just have to have air exhaust fittings, they typically want go at the highest point . . . . which would be the top ports of the Q (or T) fittings you're going to put on the top rads.


----------



## Costas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> The "T" fittings might work too, but by the time you buy a couple male to male rotaries, which the "Q" effectively has already built in,


You can also purchase the 'T' blocks with an in-built rotary to save on height... basically the same as the Q-Rotary sans the extra two ports.

Only reason I know about these is that I happened to stumble on some and will be requiring at least one in my current build.

Not all that commonly used by people [could not seem to locate them on PPCS website] but I actually will be using one in my build due to a space constraint... Here is a pic http://www.watercoolinguk.co.uk/p/Bitspower-TII-Adapter-14-to-3-x-Female-14-inch-Rotating-Shiny-Silver_32005.html


----------



## Maxxamillion

Looking at the D5 Diva Mod.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> With a dual pump, a 2.2K ohm resistor is the sweet spot, while if it's a single pump, 3.3K or 4.7K ohms is good.


Is this resistor a 1/2 watt or 1/4 watt resistor and is there a difference between a 3.3K and a 4.7K resistor running a single pump? Thanks in advance.


----------



## ruffhi

Or you could go to the source and search for Q-Rotary or Q-Block. Other options include

L-Rotary
L-Block
Q Plus-Rotary
TII-Rotary
etc


----------



## jsutter71

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *InfoSeeker*
> 
> It looks to me like you came in on the wrong side of that acrylic stop plug with the LED.
> Is it intended to light up the coolant in the tubing or reservoir?


Yes. I've had to improvise for what I needed to do. I realize that the plug is being used differently from it's intended purpose. I has to drill the hole in front of the case bigger in order to fit the LED. I actually used a G1/4 pass through plug to hold the acrylic plug. This is the final result.


----------



## rolldog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> The "T" fittings might work too, but by the time you buy a couple male to male rotaries, which the "Q" effectively has already built in, (but not as tall) cost wise it's pretty much a wash, and the "Q" won't stick up as high as a "T" on a m-m rotary. . . . Which for my S8 was a critical consideration.
> If you fill / bleed thru the rad(s), it will be orders of magnitude easier to get all the air out of the rads and have them full of coolant.
> 
> Just leave an inch or so of air space at the top of the res(s) and plug the rad.
> 
> If you just have to have air exhaust fittings, they typically want go at the highest point . . . . which would be the top ports of the Q (or T) fittings you're going to put on the top rads.


Ok. Will adding one of those air exhaust fittings help bleed air out of my top rad? I've never used one before, that's why I'm asking. Also, should I add an air bleed port to both rads or would adding one to the first rad in the loop help bleed air from the loop?

Also, you mentioned leaving an inch of so of air space at the top of the res, but my fill ports leads directly to a port on top of my reservoirs which each have an Aqua tube installed. Are you suggesting that I leave air space in my reservoirs beneath the Aqua tube or do I fill them high enough to cover the opening of the Aqua tube?


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Maxxamillion*
> 
> Looking at the D5 Diva Mod.
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> With a dual pump, a 2.2K ohm resistor is the sweet spot, while if it's a single pump, 3.3K or 4.7K ohms is good.
> 
> 
> 
> Is this resistor a 1/2 watt or 1/4 watt resistor and is there a difference between a 3.3K and a 4.7K resistor running a single pump? Thanks in advance.
Click to expand...

The quarter watt is fine for the higher value resistor, the smaller leads make it easier to solder it onto the PWM wire's pin and slip it back in the connector.

I like to stay at 1/2W for the 560 ohm to 1K ohm one, as the leads are more robust, and makes for a more solid assembly.

For a single pump, either 3.3K of 4.7K is fine, whichever is easier to source . . . sometimes 4.7K is just easier to find locally than 3.3K, but it's not a particularly critical value, so select based on expediency.

You'd need a scope to see the difference, . . . it affects the pullup voltage at the pump by a tenth of a volt or two.

Darlene


----------



## InfoSeeker

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jsutter71*
> 
> Yes. I've had to improvise for what I needed to do. I realize that the plug is being used differently from it's intended purpose. I has to drill the hole in front of the case bigger in order to fit the LED. I actually used a G1/4 pass through plug to hold the acrylic plug. This is the final result.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


I see, you wanted a diffuser... Looks great.









I guess this could be an option if one were looking to make a statement.


----------



## seross69

I do not remember but can the poweradjust 3 USB, ultra version be used as a stand along product? or do I need to get a aquaero 5 as I will not be controlling but 5 fans?

I want to program it with my lap top and put it in a server so that it does not have to be hooked to the server and can run as a stand alone device and control my fans for me??

@Shoggy can you help with this?


----------



## Philwong

Noticed this peculiar behavior with my AQ5 Pro.

The actual fan power output is always higher than the response curve I programmed under the controller section.

Will upload a photo to illustrate what I'm trying to say later.

Phil


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Philwong*
> 
> Noticed this peculiar behavior with my AQ5 Pro.
> 
> The actual fan power output is always higher than the response curve I programmed under the controller section.
> 
> Will upload a photo to illustrate what I'm trying to say later.
> 
> Phil


If you have the fan output minimum settings above zero, say 25% for example, then 0% controller output will be 25% actual output.

So, if your min and max are 25 and 80% then the controller output will be 0 to 100% of that 25-80.


----------



## Chunky_Chimp

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> I do not remember but can the poweradjust 3 USB, ultra version be used as a stand along product? or do I need to get a aquaero 5 as I will not be controlling but 5 fans?
> 
> I want to program it with my lap top and put it in a server so that it does not have to be hooked to the server and can run as a stand alone device and control my fans for me??
> 
> @Shoggy can you help with this?


Any Aquacomputer control unit of any kind with a USB interface can be used as a stand-alone unit, yes.


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> I do not remember but can the poweradjust 3 USB, ultra version be used as a stand along product? or do I need to get a aquaero 5 as I will not be controlling but 5 fans?
> 
> I want to program it with my lap top and put it in a server so that it does not have to be hooked to the server and can run as a stand alone device and control my fans for me??
> 
> @Shoggy can you help with this?


That is the difference between the standard and advanced versions. The advanced can be used standalone while the standard is designed to only be an extension of the Aquaero.


----------



## Philwong

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> If you have the fan output minimum settings above zero, say 25% for example, then 0% controller output will be 25% actual output.
> 
> So, if your min and max are 25 and 80% then the controller output will be 0 to 100% of that 25-80.


That makes sense! Thanks.

Phil


----------



## Shoggy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> That is the difference between the standard and advanced versions. The advanced can be used standalone while the standard is designed to only be an extension of the Aquaero.


That is wrong!

Like Chunky_Chimp said: any USB device from us can be used as stand alone of course. Why else should we add a USB port to it?









The only difference between the standard and ultra variant of the poweradjust is that the ultra variant is able to adjust the output power automatically by the temperature. The standard variant offers only a manual control.

When combined with an aquaero this does not matter any more because the aquaero will control the device so using the standard version is enough.


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> That is wrong!
> 
> Like Chunky_Chimp said: any USB device from us can be used as stand alone of course. Why else should we add a USB port to it?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The only difference between the standard and ultra variant of the poweradjust is that the ultra variant is able to adjust the output power automatically by the temperature. The standard variant offers only a manual control.
> 
> When combined with an aquaero this does not matter any more because the aquaero will control the device so using the standard version is enough.


Yeah that is great and all, but the standard will not control fan speeds itself will it, which was the question.

If it is wrong are you saying the standard is not designed to be used with the Aquaero? Never said it couldn't be used standalone mind. You keep correcting this like as if you intend that people are using it standalone which is a pretty lame device. A manual controller that you have to open up software to adjust.


----------



## Shoggy

You wrote "the standard is designed to only be an extension of the Aquaero." which sounds like the poweradjust must be used with an aquaero to do anything but you can also use it without an aquaero of course.


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> You wrote "the standard is designed to only be an extension of the Aquaero." which sounds like the poweradjust must be used with an aquaero to do anything but you can also use it without an aquaero of course.


Can you program a poweradjust and nit have it connected to the pc's usb?? I am wanting to program ine put it in my server and have it control the fans completely independant of the server?!


----------



## Shoggy

It can run autonomous with its stored settings but you have to do the initial setup via USB first. Afterwards the USB connection is not required anymore.


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> It can run autonomous with its stored settings but you have to do the initial setup via USB first. Afterwards the USB connection is not required anymore.


Sorry to bother you, i just want to make sure i am right.
So i could use my laptop to set it up and then it will run?? And i can use poweradjust or aquearo? Right?


----------



## Shoggy

Yes, you can do the initial setup with a laptop for example. In this case you will need an adapter cable because the device only comes with a cable for the internal USB ports of a mainboard.

I do not understand your "or aquaero" question. The aquaero can be configured the same way.


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> Yes, you can do the initial setup with a laptop for example. In this case you will need an adapter cable because the device only comes with a cable for the internal USB ports of a mainboard.
> 
> I do not understand your "or aquaero" question. The aquaero can be configured the same way.


Thank you so much for confirming this for me! Sorry to have been such a bother!!


----------



## ruffhi

Firstly, apologies if this has been asked before.
I know it has as I found some of the discussion.

I wanted to ask which of the three Aquacomputer D5 Pumps is the better one ...

Aquacomputer D5 Pump Motor with PWM Input and Speed Signal AQ-41105

Aquacomputer D5 Pump Mechanics with RPM Signal AQ-41091

Aquacomputer D5 Pump Mechanics with USB and Aquabus Interface AQ-41093

I say it has been asked before ... here ... and ... here.

But ... let me rephrase the question ...

Which is the better Aquacomputer D5 Pump *for me*?

I am planning on the following ...
- CaseLabs S5
- 2 x 120.3 60mm rads in push / pull config
- CPU = i7
- GPU = 980
- CPU and GPU blocks

From my reading, fan speed seems to have a much bigger impact on heat dissipation than flow rate. As such, I am thinking that I will set the pump speed and not vary it. I will, however, vary the fan speed based on water and air temp.

So - which pump should I get? I am thinking of getting the AQ-41091 and just setting the little red dial to a level to generate a reasonable flow rate. Thoughts?

Also - while you are answering this question ... should I get a flow meeting? Is so, which one?


Aquacomputer Flow Rate Sensor MPS Flow 100 (AQ-53130), 200 (AQ-53131) or 400 (AQ-53132)

Aquacomputer Flow Rate Sensor "High Flow USB" (AQ-53129)

Aquacomputer Flow Sensor 'High Flow' G1/4 for Aquaero 5/6 , Aquastream XT Ultra and Poweradjust (AQ-53068)

I would prefer one that doesn't click (ie is a sensor and not mechanical). I also saw that you need (minimum) of 50mm straight flow into and out of the flow meter. Is this the same for all of these flow meters?


----------



## Costas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ruffhi*
> 
> I wanted to ask which of the three Aquacomputer D5 Pumps is the better one


D5 pump with red speed dial - handy and fairly foolproof for most people. Only thing to be aware of is in some applications you may not be able to reach the red dial to adjust its speed once it is installed in situ. So it effectively is set to the one speed which may become a hindrance when trying to bleed.

D5 pump PWM variant - Can adjust speed of this pump remotely through your Aquaero. Note that you may need to perform the DIVA mod to have it function properly with the Aquaero as the standard D5 PWM variants do not quite meet the Intel PWM spec. Aquacomputer's latest version of this pump that does work 100% with the Aquaero... http://shop.aquacomputer.de/product_info.php?products_id=3255 This is the only D5 PWM variant that works out of the box with the Aquaero when using the PWM fan headers for control.

Note that the D5 USB variant below does not have the same issue as its driven off the Aquabus port [completely different protocol when compared to PWM drive].

D5 USB variant - Basically you can hook this guy up to the Aquaeror's Aquabus port instead of the FAN headers which means it does not tie up any of the fan header ports - the other pumps above require that they plug into the fan header ports thereby reserving them up for pump use - May or may not be an issue for you depending on how many fans you have and how you want them configured.
Another thing to be aware of is that the USB variant will show up correctly as a 'PUMP' in the Aquaero's menu and LCD system whereas the other variants will not show up at all as they are controlled by whichever fan channel they are connected to. They are simply just another fan as far as the Aquaero is concerned.

Now your wondering why have an adjustable speed pump... here are the two main reasons:

1.... Allows for much easier bleeding (trapped bubbles etc) when you can ramp up or down the speed of the pump.

2.... D5's will cause vibrations - In many cases you can set a speed where resonance due to vibrations is eliminated/reduced. Or it may simply be a noise issue which may necessitate reducing the speed etc.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ruffhi*
> 
> should I get a flow meeting? Is so, which one?


Up to you really, the're certainly not a necessity - However I like them as it allows me to monitor the internal health of my loop over time. If my flow ever reduces/changes from when first setup, I then know something is up....!

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ruffhi*
> 
> I also saw that you need (minimum) of 50mm straight flow into and out of the flow meter. Is this the same for all of these flow meters?


Pretty much so although it mainly applies to flowmeters which use pressure measuring techniques for measurement [ie. MPS series].... this allows for non turbulent flow to enter and exit the flow meter and thereby preserve its linearity. If you have turbulence it can play havoc with pressure before and after the sensor which affects its accuracy and more importantly its linearity.

Note that the mechanical flow sensors you linked to work well, however at high-ish flow rates (300+ LPH) they tend to have a ticking sound which can be annoying.

The mechanical variants are pretty much set and forget whereas the MPS series require some form of calibration. You can download some calibration curves that myself and a few others like Jakusonfire and fastfate have generated for a number of fitting combinations. The type of fitting screwed onto the MPS sensor will affect its accuracy - that is how sensitive they are to pressure changes....!

If wanting an MPS sensor then you probably want to opt for an MPS400 as this one covers the typical flow rate ranges seen with our loops.

Further info here for you here - Scroll down to the flowmeter links: http://www.overclock.net/t/1501978/ocn-community-water-cooling-test-thread


----------



## Jakusonfire

+1 to all of the above. Well written and accurate.

I personally think if you spend the cash on an Aquaero the USB pumps are def the way to go with them. In the end they are all the same pump but the added convenience of the USB and its proper integration into the system is worth it.


----------



## ruffhi

Thx for the info guys. I see that the USB pin port is only 5 pins (ie more like USB 2 than USB3). So ... say I go with the USB version (for future proofing) ... but my build is planning on using two pumps in series. Is that two USB pumps with a USB splitter?

Re the splitter - sort of like this one but in reverse (two females and one male). I might even try and make my own (then I only need max 5 wires). Any special adjustments (a la 4-pin fan splitters) that I need to consider?


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ruffhi*
> 
> Thx for the info guys. I see that the USB pin port is only 5 pins (ie more like USB 2 than USB3). So ... say I go with the USB version (for future proofing) ... but my build is planning on using two pumps in series. Is that two USB pumps with a USB splitter?
> 
> Re the splitter - sort of like this one but in reverse (two females and one male). I might even try and make my own (then I only need max 5 wires). Any special adjustments (a la 4-pin fan splitters) that I need to consider?


No, no. You can't do that with USB headers/cables.

Each ten pin port on a motherboard is two USB headers. That's why one plug from your case wiring will support two USB ports. Each port on your motherboard will support two Aquacomp USB devices.

To actually split USB ports you need a USB hub with an active controller chip in it.

The good news is that to run twin USB pumps you don't need to have them connected via USB. They can both be connected to the Aquabus high speed port via simple cable or PCB splitters. The USB connection is only really needed for initial setup but that can be done one device at a time if low on ports.
I know some boards come with limited USB 2.0 ports these days but we should be able to use the USB 3 ports with simple adaptor cables too if really needed.


----------



## fast_fate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ruffhi*
> 
> Thx for the info guys. I see that the USB pin port is only 5 pins (ie more like USB 2 than USB3). So ... say I go with the USB version (for future proofing) ... but my build is planning on using two pumps in series. Is that two USB pumps with a USB splitter?
> 
> Re the splitter - sort of like this one but in reverse (two females and one male). I might even try and make my own (then I only need max 5 wires). Any special adjustments (a la 4-pin fan splitters) that I need to consider?


If you are short on motherboard USB 2.0 headers, the go to expansion board is the NZXT IU01 Internal expansion board.
"_Expand the internal USBs inside your PC with three internal ports and two external ports to allow for more connections to connect the latest AIO liquid coolers, fan controllers, and USB devices. The IU01 internal USB hub also provides enough current to power devices from its various types of USB headers._"



The other option is to connect each pump one by one to a USB header to set up it's Aquabus ID with the Aquaero, then split and control both from Aquabus.

D5 USB is ultra convenient for systems without an Aquaero unit, but with an Aquaero installed why not go with Aquabus control - then USB connection only required for initial set up.

EDIT:







by Jak while I was getting the NZXT link


----------



## Maxxamillion

Is it possible to get the aquasuite 2015 software temperature sensors to work off of afterburner/rivatuner?


----------



## Shoggy

No, the currently supported tools are

- HWiNFO
- AIDA64 Extreme Edition
- Open Hardware Monitor


----------



## jsutter71

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fast_fate*
> 
> If you are short on motherboard USB 2.0 headers, the go to expansion board is the NZXT IU01 Internal expansion board.
> "_Expand the internal USBs inside your PC with three internal ports and two external ports to allow for more connections to connect the latest AIO liquid coolers, fan controllers, and USB devices. The IU01 internal USB hub also provides enough current to power devices from its various types of USB headers._"
> 
> 
> 
> The other option is to connect each pump one by one to a USB header to set up it's Aquabus ID with the Aquaero, then split and control both from Aquabus.
> 
> D5 USB is ultra convenient for systems without an Aquaero unit, but with an Aquaero installed why not go with Aquabus control - then USB connection only required for initial set up.
> 
> EDIT:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> by Jak while I was getting the NZXT link


I just purchased one of these for my build along with a couple Modmytoys 4-Pin PWM Power Distribution PCB's. I'm using the Modmytoys device to distribute the aquabus connections.Something I noticed that bugs me is the NZXT USB hub uses padded velcro directly connected to the back of the PCB. The soldering on the back of the pcb prevents the velcro from remaining flush and makes it weak.In comparison the Modmytoys version also uses velcro, but the PCB slides into a mount which protects the back of the PCB. Much better design. Their are reviews where some people stated that the NZXT device shorted out and fried their motherboards. For me this is disconcerting so I've applied a layer of silicone on the back of the PCB.


----------



## Daggi

Hey all
I have a mps 400 flow meter and a fill level sensor om my Aqualis res connected with a 4 pin aquabus cable to my Aquaero 6. I have a power adjust 3 ultra that i want to control with my Aquaero 6, but how do I connect the poweradjust since it only has a 3 pin aquabus cable? Can i just hook it up to my 4 pin slitter i use for the other components?


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Daggi*
> 
> Hey all
> I have a mps 400 flow meter and a fill level sensor om my Aqualis res connected with a 4 pin aquabus cable to my Aquaero 6. I have a power adjust 3 ultra that i want to control with my Aquaero 6, but how do I connect the poweradjust since it only has a 3 pin aquabus cable? Can i just hook it up to my 4 pin slitter i use for the other components?


Yes


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *ruffhi*
> 
> Thx for the info guys. I see that the USB pin port is only 5 pins (ie more like USB 2 than USB3). So ... say I go with the USB version (for future proofing) ... but my build is planning on using two pumps in series. Is that two USB pumps with a USB splitter?
> 
> Re the splitter - sort of like this one but in reverse (two females and one male). I might even try and make my own (then I only need max 5 wires). Any special adjustments (a la 4-pin fan splitters) that I need to consider?
> 
> 
> 
> No, no. You can't do that with USB headers/cables.
> 
> Each ten pin port on a motherboard is two USB headers. That's why one plug from your case wiring will support two USB ports. Each port on your motherboard will support two Aquacomp USB devices.
> 
> To actually split USB ports you need a USB hub with an active controller chip in it.
> 
> The good news is that to run twin USB pumps you don't need to have them connected via USB. They can both be connected to the Aquabus high speed port via simple cable or PCB splitters. The USB connection is only really needed for initial setup but that can be done one device at a time if low on ports.
> I know some boards come with limited USB 2.0 ports these days but we should be able to use the USB 3 ports with simple adaptor cables too if really needed.
Click to expand...

Please note this you can damage your mobo if connected improperly
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fast_fate*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *ruffhi*
> 
> Thx for the info guys. I see that the USB pin port is only 5 pins (ie more like USB 2 than USB3). So ... say I go with the USB version (for future proofing) ... but my build is planning on using two pumps in series. Is that two USB pumps with a USB splitter?
> 
> Re the splitter - sort of like this one but in reverse (two females and one male). I might even try and make my own (then I only need max 5 wires). Any special adjustments (a la 4-pin fan splitters) that I need to consider?
> 
> 
> 
> If you are short on motherboard USB 2.0 headers, the go to expansion board is the NZXT IU01 Internal expansion board.
> "_Expand the internal USBs inside your PC with three internal ports and two external ports to allow for more connections to connect the latest AIO liquid coolers, fan controllers, and USB devices. The IU01 internal USB hub also provides enough current to power devices from its various types of USB headers._"
> 
> 
> 
> The other option is to connect each pump one by one to a USB header to set up it's Aquabus ID with the Aquaero, then split and control both from Aquabus.
> 
> D5 USB is ultra convenient for systems without an Aquaero unit, but with an Aquaero installed why not go with Aquabus control - then USB connection only required for initial set up.
> 
> EDIT:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> by Jak while I was getting the NZXT link
Click to expand...

I love this, hoping they make one for usb as I can see usb2 is dieing
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Daggi*
> 
> Hey all
> I have a mps 400 flow meter and a fill level sensor om my Aqualis res connected with a 4 pin aquabus cable to my Aquaero 6. I have a power adjust 3 ultra that i want to control with my Aquaero 6, but how do I connect the poweradjust since it only has a 3 pin aquabus cable? Can i just hook it up to my 4 pin slitter i use for the other components?


Yes, the 4th pin just adds voltage, just make sure like everything with the aq, you connect it properly,


----------



## Daggi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> Yes


Great







Thanks


----------



## wa3pnt

Darlene,

You might have answered this, but I have not been able to find a post regarding the question.

Migrating a 900D build into a S8.

Plan to replace the temperamental MPS-400 with a Koolance FM-18 and FM-01 Display.

My question is whether the output of the Display can be connected to the AQ-6XT "FLOW" input to read the flow into the AQ-6XT, and thus avoid having to use a Fan channel?

Thanks for your input.

RodeoGeorge


----------



## Mega Man

No it can not it has to use a fan channel


----------



## wa3pnt

Bummer.

Then I will probably go with the AQ-53129, and hope that I do not wind up with the "ticking" noise.

http://www.performance-pcs.com/accessories-misc/aquacomputer-flow-rate-sensor-high-flow-usb-g1-4.html

RodeoGeorge


----------



## NE0XY

Hi,
Quick question to ensure I don't buy the wrong thing.
I have an Aquaero 6XT and I want to add a flow sensor thingy, but I just want want to make sure I buy the correct one.
Is it this one: http://www.aquatuning.se/vattenkylning/oevervakning/floedesindikator/6146/aquacomputer-durchflusssensor-high-flow-g1/4-fuer-aquaero-aquastream-xt-ultra-und-poweradjust
Or this one: http://www.aquatuning.se/vattenkylning/oevervakning/floedesindikator/13769/aquacomputer-durchflusssensor-high-flow-usb-g1/4

I'm pretty sure It's the first one but I want to make sure. Also, on the compatible devices list the Aquaero 6 isn't listed, but it works anyway?


----------



## fast_fate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NE0XY*
> 
> Hi,
> Quick question to ensure I don't buy the wrong thing.
> I have an Aquaero 6XT and I want to add a flow sensor thingy, but I just want want to make sure I buy the correct one.
> Is it this one: http://www.aquatuning.se/vattenkylning/oevervakning/floedesindikator/6146/aquacomputer-durchflusssensor-high-flow-g1/4-fuer-aquaero-aquastream-xt-ultra-und-poweradjust
> Or this one: http://www.aquatuning.se/vattenkylning/oevervakning/floedesindikator/13769/aquacomputer-durchflusssensor-high-flow-usb-g1/4
> 
> I'm pretty sure It's the first one but I want to make sure. Also, on the compatible devices list the Aquaero 6 isn't listed, but it works anyway?


Firstly, both those flow meters you linked are compatible with Aquaero 6 controllers









The "High Flow" unit can only be used (intended use) in conjunction with another Aqua Computer product (such as those listed) and connects via the "FLOW" header on the device you connect it to. It has a special connector plug which won't plug into anything else.

The "High Flow USB" (and Aquabus) can be used as a stand lone flow meter if connected to a USB headere on your motherboard and use the Aquasuite software to monitor flow rate.
If connecting to an Aqua Computer product such as an Aquaero controller, it must be connected to the "Aquabus High" header (or a splitter from it)
It also has an rpm output, handy for connecting to a mobo fan header to configure a system shutdown from a no flow situation (no rpm signal) such as pump failure/no pump power.
In addition it has a temp sensor input which may come in handy to plug a coolant temp sensor into rather than routing the wiring back to the Aquaero.

The NON USB is handy if you already have 4 Aquabus devices ( 4 is maximum) connected to the Aquaero and performs identically to the USB version.

The USB version offers more flexibility but at a $$ cost. Wiring can be easier as you can run it's connection cable to a splitter for Aquabus devices.The rpm and temp connection are extra tempters which may come in handy but not absolutely essential


----------



## Costas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NE0XY*
> 
> Hi,
> Quick question to ensure I don't buy the wrong thing.


Also - just to add to fast_fate's comments - the first flow sensor (non USB) must be used with a special cable that is NOT included with the flow sensor. It must be purchased separately.

Aquacomputer flow meter cable 53027

http://www.aquatuning.se/vattenkylning/oevervakning/floedesindikator/2763/aquacomputer-durchflusssensorkabel-3-polig


----------



## RDKing2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fast_fate*
> 
> Edit-
> 
> The NON USB is handy if you already have 4 Aquabus devices ( 4 is maximum) connected to the Aquaero and performs identically to the USB version.


Note that aquastream pumps and poweradjust do not count towards the four device maximum.
Not sure if this list has changed with the current firmware.

In maximum configuration, the following devices can be connected to an aquaero 6 simultaneously:

Two aquastream XT pumps
Eight poweradjust 2/3 controllers
Four mps-based devices (flow sensor, pressure/fill level sensor and D5 pump with aquabus)
One tubemeter
Two multiswitches


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RDKing2*
> 
> Note that aquastream pumps and poweradjust do not count towards the four device maximum.
> Not sure if this list has changed with the current firmware.
> 
> In maximum configuration, the following devices can be connected to an aquaero 6 simultaneously:
> 
> Two aquastream XT pumps
> Eight poweradjust 2/3 controllers
> Four mps-based devices (flow sensor, pressure/fill level sensor and D5 pump with aquabus)
> One tubemeter
> Two multiswitches


As far as I recall low aquabus port have been disable by recent firmware updates...So tubemeter and any other low aquabus device are no longer compatible via aquabus.


----------



## Shoggy

Currently possible at the same time:


8x poweradjust 2/3 (only 4x when aquaero 5/6 LT is connected as slave)
4x mps based devices (flow/fill/pressure sensors, D5 pump)
2x aquastream XT/ULTIMATE or compact 600 pump module
2x farbwerk
1x real time clock module
1x aquaero 5/6 LT as slave
The tubemeter and multiswitch were low speed aquabus devices and as already mentioned this interface is not working anymore since firmware version 2000 and above.


----------



## alstorm

Should the temperature sensors on a fabwerk appear under "Temperature Sensors" in the Aqausuite sensors page?

Maybe I didn't have something connected or configured correctly - but when I tried earlier today it seemed like the temp sensor inputs didn't appear in the senors tab like they would do for a power adjust 3.


----------



## Chunky_Chimp

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> The tubemeter and multiswitch were low speed aquabus devices and as already mentioned this interface is not working anymore since firmware version 2000 and above.


Why is that?

Also, on that subject, while I did ask a couple years ago and you replied it likely wouldn't happen, I might try again; is there a new Multiswitch-ish device being planned so a large bank of LEDs and fans can be tied to just one Aquaero slave device?


----------



## Dagamus NM

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chunky_Chimp*
> 
> Why is that?
> 
> Also, on that subject, while I did ask a couple years ago and you replied it likely wouldn't happen, I might try again; is there a new Multiswitch-ish device being planned so a large bank of LEDs and fans can be tied to just one Aquaero slave device?


The newer bios closes off use of the aqua bus low, maybe because it wasn't deemed necessary but much more likely an issue of the electronics between the busses and PWM headers. I'm sure somebody else can give a more technical explanation.

The farbwerk is the LED controller though it does not have any fan ports, for that you could run them from your aquaero or a power adjust module but as of now there is nothing combining the properties of the farbwerk and power adjust as you ask for. Furthermore, if you need PWM fan headers then the power adjust will not work for you.


----------



## Shoggy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chunky_Chimp*
> 
> Why is that?
> 
> Also, on that subject, while I did ask a couple years ago and you replied it likely wouldn't happen, I might try again; is there a new Multiswitch-ish device being planned so a large bank of LEDs and fans can be tied to just one Aquaero slave device?


There was almost no demand for the multiswitch lately so we were happy when all were gone and we will not produce such a device again of course.

The lowspeed aquabus has been disabled because the multiswitch and tubemeter are pretty old and we doubt that there are many customers using this combination. The lowpseed protocol was an albatross around the neck. Removing it made things easier for us and also freed up some memory for other things in the future.


----------



## Chunky_Chimp

Interesting, I see. In fairness I suppose the Multiswitch and Tubemeter were never all that popular, especially since the Tubemeter only worked in the Aquatube (at least, IIRC). What about a simple slave module for additional fans so users don't have to buy more than one Aquaero if they're running, say, multiple large rads with push+pull fan configurations?


----------



## Mega Man

All I want is nothing for LEDs as the Farbwerk is perfect. I want a bank of relays (say 10) that I can use, for various reasons, ( motors, turning fans on and off, ect. ) Now the 1 a relays are fine. As I can make that open/close higher rates relays. But I want to control it with Aquasuite

For the love of htpcs please release the ir led!


----------



## Dagamus NM

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chunky_Chimp*
> 
> Interesting, I see. In fairness I suppose the Multiswitch and Tubemeter were never all that popular, especially since the Tubemeter only worked in the Aquatube (at least, IIRC). What about a simple slave module for additional fans so users don't have to buy more than one Aquaero if they're running, say, multiple large rads with push+pull fan configurations?


That is called power adjust 2 or power adjust 3.


----------



## Shoggy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chunky_Chimp*
> 
> What about a simple slave module for additional fans so users don't have to buy more than one Aquaero if they're running, say, multiple large rads with push+pull fan configurations?


That is on a imaginary list since a while now but I guess nothing that will happen anytime soon since there are way too many other things that are more important.


----------



## Chunky_Chimp

Interesting, I guess I wasn't alone in that idea.







Thanks, anyway.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dagamus NM*
> 
> That is called power adjust 2 or power adjust 3.


I wouldn't say so. The Poweradjusts are more for single high-powered fans or pumps. I mean something perhaps the size of a Poweradjust* stuffed completely full of fan-only connections, one that could mount to the same faceplate as a Poweradjust so you could have all of your cooling connections split between just 2 external bays (Aquaero in the first, Farbwerk + Poweradjust 3 + block of fan headers in the second).

*Perhaps an XT version could be done, as well, the size of 2 Poweradjusts with an even larger block of fan headers.


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chunky_Chimp*
> 
> Interesting, I guess I wasn't alone in that idea.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks, anyway.
> I wouldn't say so. The Poweradjusts are more for single high-powered fans or pumps. I mean something perhaps the size of a Poweradjust* stuffed completely full of fan-only connections, one that could mount to the same faceplate as a Poweradjust so you could have all of your cooling connections split between just 2 external bays (Aquaero in the first, Farbwerk + Poweradjust 3 + block of fan headers in the second).
> 
> *Perhaps an XT version could be done, as well, the size of 2 Poweradjusts with an even larger block of fan headers.


Chip I have 8 koolance fans FAN-12025HBK hooked to a poweradjust that is connected to my Aquaero. I just made a splitter to hook all the fans to then have one 3 wire cable going from the splitter to the power adjust. I am able to control these fans water air delta.


----------



## Chunky_Chimp

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> Chip I have 8 koolance fans FAN-12025HBK hooked to a poweradjust that is connected to my Aquaero. I just made a splitter to hook all the fans to then have one 3 wire cable going from the splitter to the power adjust. I am able to control these fans water air delta.


Splitters are great, yeah, but I mean something for someone that wants to control every fan individually rather than just assign a curve to each channel/device. OCD people need to be thrown a bone every so often, you know.


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chunky_Chimp*
> 
> Splitters are great, yeah, but I mean something for someone that wants to control every fan individually rather than just assign a curve to each channel/device. OCD people need to be thrown a bone every so often, you know.


I can understand about the OCD but what I don't under stand is why on a rad you would want to control the fans separate? Does not make sense to me but I am not very smart so I am sure there is a good reason??


----------



## Chunky_Chimp

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> I can understand about the OCD but what I don't under stand is why on a rad you would want to control the fans separate? Does not make sense to me but I am not very smart so I am sure there is a good reason??


Only reason I can come up with off-hand is if you're using multiple different fans on the same rad, I guess. It's not a sensible thing to do, I know, but you could do it. I'm just saying you could have the option.


----------



## iBruce

Are you guys suggesting a PowerAdjust 3 Ultra version is launching later this year with PWM ports?









(or am I reading too much into it?)

PowerAdjust 4 PWM?

The one I picked up last year had its red LED swapped out to blue, fresh solder marks on the PCB, the only change for 2015 that I know of.

Prefer the blue LED over the red.









http://s296.photobucket.com/user/iBruceEVGA/media/IMG_4042_zpsbhyncbk5.jpg.html


----------



## Edge0fsanity

I'm having an issue with my new farbwerk led controller when connected to my aquaero 6 pro via aquabus. When i have the farbwerk connected through a usb header on the mobo everything works great. I can control the leds in aquasuite like i should. However, when i disconnect the usb cable so that i can control it through aquabus i can no longer change anything with the led strips.

My aquaero sees the farbwerk controller and it has a aquabus address of 20


I have the outputs configured like this


I have the controller setup like this


I'm sure its something i'm doing wrong with the setup but i can't figure out what it is. Anyone know whats going on with this?


----------



## Shoggy

When connected via USB: have you changed the mode of the channels to be controlled by an external source? The external source will be the aquaero in this case.


----------



## Edge0fsanity

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> When connected via USB: have you changed the mode of the channels to be controlled by an external source? The external source will be the aquaero in this case.


if you're talking about in they system menu in aquasuite for the aquaero checking the "overwrite outputs directly" yes i tried that. If thats not it then i can't find what you're talking about in any of the menus.


----------



## Shoggy

No, the tab of the farbwerk when it is connected via USB. You have to allow in the configuration tab that the channels can be controlled by an external source. This is done by changing the mode of each channel.


----------



## Edge0fsanity

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> No, the tab of the farbwerk when it is connected via USB. You have to allow in the configuration tab that the channels can be controlled by an external source. This is done by changing the mode of each channel.


That fixed it, just wasn't in a place where i was expecting it to be. Thanks so much.


----------



## RDKing2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iBruce*
> 
> Are you guys suggesting a PowerAdjust 3 Ultra version is launching later this year with PWM ports?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (or am I reading too much into it?)
> 
> PowerAdjust 4 PWM?
> 
> snip


http://www.overclock.net/t/1501306/aquacomputer-new-power-adjuster-3-serie/20#post_24816858


----------



## seross69

If anyone wants some cheap pumps like iBruce has then look here 2 Aquacomputer D5 Pump Mechanics with USB and Aquabus Interface


----------



## Vipercat

Hey&#8230;

I hive the "Aquaero 6 XT blue USB fan controller, graphic LCD, touch control, IR remote control" to control pump and fan. My fans working fine.

My problem is with the ""EK-XTOP Revo D5 PWM - Plexi (incl. pump ""
The EK-D5 ( PWM Response ) 1450 to 4800 PWM

Right now I'm using the CPU1 header on msi godlike MB to control the pump.

When I use CPU1 header to control the pump, it doesn't keep any setting that apply. It return back to default, using MSI Command center even when save a profile setting. Also try the setting in the bios. But everytime I boot the system it reset back default. 40c @ 45% which the pump will running @ 1450 to 1850 RMP.. I did had it working before I update the bios. As the temp rise, the pump will speed up the flow.

So try use the Aquaero 6 xt to control the pump, but doesn't work. I no that it's not a Aquaero Pump. But D5 PWM pump do work. And hive tested the pump in difference speed. So its working fine."

On any fan header that are PWM control that I use, The max speed I get 2010 PWM, no matter what configuration I set to, it stay at 2000 PWM. I so have a powerjusted 3 ultra, but doesn't hive PWM to control the pump. Only speed senor. The EK-XTOP Revo D5 PWM has fore wire's power 12v and one yellow and one blue.

The blue wire = speed control
The yellow wire = speed senor

Can anyone please shed some light on this matter?

How to setup this stupid pump... with software / hardware.

Its working fine with CPU1 or CPU2 header and MSI command center`
BUT I hive to go in there manually to just the temp/speed. Every time boot the system.









PS. I was toll that mod can fix this. (As for the D5 pump with the Aquaero, it is a well known issue. You need to modify the PWM connector, have a look in the Aquaero thread here on the forums. Search for Diva mod.)

looking for link on this information.

Thanks


----------



## Costas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Vipercat*
> 
> PS. I was toll that mod can fix this. (As for the D5 pump with the Aquaero, it is a well known issue. You need to modify the PWM connector, have a look in the Aquaero thread here on the forums. Search for Diva mod.)
> 
> looking for link on this information.
> 
> Thanks


Here is the info on the 'Diva Mod' for the D5 pumps.

http://www.overclock.net/t/1474470/ocn-aquaero-owners-club/6410#post_24748004


----------



## Mads1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> Yep, they're great. Very flexible in the applications they suit either stock or after very simple mod. As Darlene says, its the RPM line that is cut normally.
> 
> I use a simple six way model for my Aquabus. Its great having a single point and makes cable org super easy.


what do you mean by the rpm line that is cut normally, i dont need to mod this do i, i thought i can just connect the fans to the MMT Pcb then the one header to the AQ, or have i misunderstood.


----------



## Vipercat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Costas*
> 
> Here is the info on the 'Diva Mod' for the D5 pumps.
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1474470/ocn-aquaero-owners-club/6410#post_24748004


Excellent..

Two Questions

1) this mod cable, is it to connect to CPU1 fan heater on MB. OR to the aquaero 6 xt fans header 1 to 4

2) Any idea of instruction on how to connect this cables because, See tow different cable that split for two motor.

Sorry asking..


----------



## Costas

1: It is predominately to connect it to the Aquaero's fan headers although it will also function correctly on a mobo PWM header as well. The Aquaero's fan headers comply to Intel's PWM fan header specs so providing the mobo's header is also Intel PWM compliant it will work fine on the CPU fan header.

2: You can use two separate cables each with their own Diva Mod components fitted to control two pumps. Or, as shown in the Diva Mod link you can also utilise a Swiftech splitter cable to connect two pumps to the one PWM header. This just requires one set of components (note that one resistor should be reduced to 2.2K) as noted in the mod.

The splitter cable simply splits the PWM line so that both pumps receive and are driven off the one/same PWM signal. It also disconnects one RPM wire from one of the leads as you only want one pump reporting RPM back to the Aquaero/Mobo header. If you have both pump's RPM leads connected to the same header it will not work as the RPM readings will interfere with each other and play havoc with the RPM readings.


----------



## Vipercat

thank you

i wiil do the project tonight


----------



## Mega Man

just to clarify

lang did not follow intel pwm specs, this brings pwm specs to the d5, this IS fully safe to use on ANY pwm connector even motherboards, and it will make it function properly ( no pwm header it will run at 100% ) and on the mobos that did not control well the d5s it will fix that as well


----------



## Mads1

All this talk of intel PWM and what can work and not, has got me confused now, i want a D5 or DDC that i can connect to my motherboard but also to be able to connect it to the AQ 6xt without problems and mods, not sure what one to get now.


----------



## fat4l

subbed.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mads1*
> 
> All this talk of intel PWM and what can work and not, has got me confused now, i want a D5 or DDC that i can connect to my motherboard but also to be able to connect it to the AQ 6xt without problems and mods, not sure what one to get now.


The only PWM and NO MOD needed D5 pump on the market ( MUST BE Aquacomputer BRAND !!!! )

http://shop.aquacomputer.de/product_info.php?products_id=3255

HOWEVER this uses a fan channel

the ONLY alternative is this pump

http://shop.aquacomputer.de/product_info.php?products_id=2901

it IS NOT pwm but essentially a vario that is controlled electronically , however it DOES NOT take a FAN CHANNEL !

it is either connected via USB or aquabus so do you need 4 fan channels or is 3 enough for you ? ( again aquacomputer brand ONLY )


----------



## seross69

IMHO pumps you set and forget! A pump speeding up and slowing down makes more noise than a loud fan!


----------



## Mads1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> The only PWM and NO MOD needed pump on the market ( MUST BE Aquacomputer BRAND !!!! )
> 
> http://shop.aquacomputer.de/product_info.php?products_id=3255
> 
> HOWEVER this uses a fan channel
> 
> the ONLY alternative is this pump
> 
> http://shop.aquacomputer.de/product_info.php?products_id=2901
> 
> it IS NOT pwm but essentially a vario that is controlled electronically , however it DOES NOT take a FAN CHANNEL !
> 
> it is either connected via USB or aquabus so do you need 4 fan channels or is 3 enough for you ? ( again aquacomputer brand ONLY )


Ok thanks, so if i got a laing (EK DDC pwm), i can only connect to my M/B ( unless modded for AQ ) but i can still control it via AQ software.


----------



## Costas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> IMHO pumps you set and forget! A pump speeding up and slowing down makes more noise than a loud fan!


It can be handy to be able to vary the speed. Not so much for cooling performance but more so to have the ability to tune out any odd harmonic vibrations you may experience or when bleeding - It is quite handy to have the ability to easily go from full speed to low etc as it can aid in bleeding stubborn bubbles etc.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mads1*
> 
> Ok thanks, so if i got a laing (EK DDC pwm), i can only connect to my M/B ( unless modded for AQ ) but i can still control it via AQ software.


All *PWM DDC pumps work 100% as is* - they do not require any modifications to work correctly off your motherboard or Aquaero's headers. So - yes you can control it from the Aquaero's software etc as is.

The problem is only with the Laing PWM D5 pumps.

Aquacomputer have introduced a PWM D5 which is modified for you and this is currently the only known PWM D5 that will work out of the box... http://shop.aquacomputer.de/product_info.php?products_id=3255

All the other PWM D5's currently on the market will require the Diva Mod.


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Costas*
> 
> It can be handy to be able to vary the speed. Not so much for cooling performance but more so to have the ability to tune out any odd harmonic vibrations you may experience or when bleeding - It is quite handy to have the ability to easily go from full speed to low etc as it can aid in bleeding stubborn bubbles etc.


Yes this is true but this is the reason I said set it and forget it as once that is done you do not need to vary the speed. But the great thing about this is we are all right.. But one thing I do not agree with is setting a pump curve based on temps..


----------



## jvillaveces

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> IMHO pumps you set and forget! A pump speeding up and slowing down makes more noise than a loud fan!


When bleeding the loop, the ability to vary speeds is very valuable. It's also useful when you want to maximize cooling ability regardless of noise for a period of time


----------



## Costas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mads1*
> 
> But one thing I do not agree with is setting a pump curve based on temps..


Yep - that will not benefit anyone really.


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jvillaveces*
> 
> When bleeding the loop, the ability to vary speeds is very valuable. It's also useful when you want to maximize cooling ability regardless of noise for a period of time


great thing about this hobby is we are all right in most things. I usually leave the pumps at full speed all the time as I can not hear it, the type of noise it makes does not bother me.. Also remember I said set it up then forget it so this is after all the bleeding and getting the air out.


----------



## Mads1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Costas*
> 
> It can be handy to be able to vary the speed. Not so much for cooling performance but more so to have the ability to tune out any odd harmonic vibrations you may experience or when bleeding - It is quite handy to have the ability to easily go from full speed to low etc as it can aid in bleeding stubborn bubbles etc.
> All *PWM DDC pumps work 100% as is* - they do not require any modifications to work correctly off your motherboard or Aquaero's headers. So - yes you can control it from the Aquaero's software etc as is.
> 
> The problem is only with the Laing PWM D5 pumps.
> 
> Aquacomputer have introduced a PWM D5 which is modified for you and this is currently the only known PWM D5 that will work out of the box... http://shop.aquacomputer.de/product_info.php?products_id=3255
> 
> All the other PWM D5's currently on the market will require the Diva Mod.


Gotcha, DDC it is then as i need the head pressure, i was just looking at the D5 as i was worried that the DDC may be abit loud but im sure i can turn it down to a level where i can then forget about it.


----------



## Shoggy

Behold, new *aquasuite 2016* in da house


















*Changelog for aquasuite 2015-9 to 2016-1*

Bugfix: Wrong processing of decimal point in the shared memory data from AIDA64
Bugfix: Some glitches in the graphics
Bugfix: Ut is no longer possible to move the entire aquasuite window outside the desktop area
Bugfix: Wrong behavior of the RPM settings in the configuration page of the aquastream XT pump

New: New overview pages for all devices
New: Support for the aquastream ULTIMATE
New: The Aqua Computer D5 USB pump is integrated to the aquaeros on-screen menu now
*Firmware 2005 for aquaero and aquaduct*

Bugfix: Some values were not displayed correctly
Bugfix: Problems with the integration of external fan channels
Bugfix: Stability improvements
Bugfix: Problem with the accuracy of the real time clock module

New: Improved filter algorithm for temperature measurements


----------



## LostParticle

@Shoggy, hello, I have just updated my Aquasuite - downloading it directly from the link you give above - and performed the necessary firmware update, however even though I opted to keep my current settings, all my fans' naming as well as a simple controller I had created, are gone and now I have to manually rename everything again. In my simple setup (see sig_rig) it is not a big deal, especially since I keep my fans' names in HWiNFO64 already. Is this how it was supposed to happen, though?

Danke schön.

*EDIT*: Oopss! Perhaps I should go to System / Settings and Profiles / Select backup and Restore the selected backup? I suppose so, but I have already renamed my setup so no big deal / no worries


----------



## Shoggy

Right, before the software performs the firmware update, it saves your settings to a profile file which you have to load into the device again after the update.

By the way: if the current settings would be no longer compatible to an update, the software will tell you this. But this would only happen for larger jumps when you try to go from a very old version to a new one.


----------



## fat4l

Hi guys,
I have a question regarding flow meter.

I'm about to buy Aquaero 6 XT.

Which flowmeter is the best to buy or the most recommended for aquaero 6 xt ?
What compenents do I need to buy to make the flowmeter work ? Cables etc...

Choose from this link pls: http://www.aquatuning.co.uk/search?sSearch=aquacomputer+flowmeter

Also, what is aquabus for ? What is the purpose?

Thx


----------



## LostParticle

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> Right, before the software performs the firmware update, it saves your settings to a profile file which you have to load into the device again after the update.
> 
> By the way: if the current settings would be no longer compatible to an update, *the software will tell you this*. But this would only happen for larger jumps when you try to go from a very old version to a new one.


Yeap, so thanks a lot for the new Aquasuite, looks great! One thing only, if you guys would like to take it in consideration: two pop-up windows appeared in this update, for example, both of which were in German. I did not understand anything, besides the path of the backup file which appeared on the second one, I think. In any case, no problem for me.


----------



## GTXJackBauer

After the Software and firmware update to 2005, my Device information thinks its a Aquaero 6 PRO now while I have a XT.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Costas*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> IMHO pumps you set and forget! A pump speeding up and slowing down makes more noise than a loud fan!
> 
> 
> 
> It can be handy to be able to vary the speed. Not so much for cooling performance but more so to have the ability to tune out any odd harmonic vibrations you may experience or when bleeding - It is quite handy to have the ability to easily go from full speed to low etc as it can aid in bleeding stubborn bubbles etc.
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mads1*
> 
> Ok thanks, so if i got a laing (EK DDC pwm), i can only connect to my M/B ( unless modded for AQ ) but i can still control it via AQ software.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> All *PWM DDC pumps work 100% as is* - they do not require any modifications to work correctly off your motherboard or Aquaero's headers. So - yes you can control it from the Aquaero's software etc as is.
> 
> The problem is only with the Laing PWM D5 pumps.
> 
> Aquacomputer have introduced a PWM D5 which is modified for you and this is currently the only known PWM D5 that will work out of the box... http://shop.aquacomputer.de/product_info.php?products_id=3255
> 
> All the other PWM D5's currently on the market will require the Diva Mod.
Click to expand...

correct, my phone didn't like "d5" which is now fixed, sorry for the miss information


----------



## RoostrC0gburn

took ya long enough... its already January 28th! (just kidding) thanks, Shoggs.

as usual, I will not update. Instead, I will lurk this sub and wait for other people to find all the bugs


----------



## Gabrielzm

So Far so good Shoggy. I like the new layout/appearance. The only thing so far I notice that I missed is not been able to give a custom name for things using the settings option (right-click mouse).


----------



## fat4l

ok another question.
what are the dimensions of the custom made heatsink, in cm ?
Has anyone done such modification ?


Also, when I want this Flow sensor "high flow" G1/4 for aquaero to work with aquaero 6, I need to buy Connection cable for flow sensor, length 70 cm right ?
Then, I will just connect it to "flow" connector right ?
Is there any need for calibration with the said flow meter?

Also, when changing to black front panel, which screws should I buy, if I want them to be black?
What type/shape are they ? Any pics?

What I'm planning to do is to connect my 2x ek DDC pwm pumps to one header using EK-Cable Y-Splitter 2-Fan PWM. The power connector will be plugged directly to the PSU.
Then, I will be using loads of Thermaltake Riing 12 Red and some Thermaltake Riing 14 Red fans connected to aquaero via these splitters.

Makes sense right ?


----------



## Shoggy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LostParticle*
> 
> One thing only, if you guys would like to take it in consideration: two pop-up windows appeared in this update, for example, both of which were in German. I did not understand anything, besides the path of the backup file which appeared on the second one, I think. In any case, no problem for me.


I tested that and found only one box to be in German - the one with the path were the profile is saved. The other ones - also the one that tell you the data is not compatible - were displayed correctly in English.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GTXJackBauer*
> 
> After the Software and firmware update to 2005, my Device information thinks its a Aquaero 6 PRO now while I have a XT.


No bug of the new version for sure. This is a problem with the interface connections between the main controller, the display and the touch controller. Likely that you have not noticed it so far and that it was already like this before you performed the update. You should unfasten the screws at the front so that you can pull off the cover incl. the touch control. I recommend that you also remove the distance pieces underneath so you can also pull off the display. The main controller and display use pins to male contact to the removed parts. Get a flat a sturdy thing and slightly bend those pins to the side so that they will make a proper contact for sure when you assemble everything again.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> So Far so good Shoggy. I like the new layout/appearance. The only thing so far I notice that I missed is not been able to give a custom name for things using the settings option (right-click mouse).


Nothing new but this time the overview pages also have multi-language support and will change with the language setting of the aquasuite. To change the text you would have to edit the XAML code of object in question. Right click -> settings -> display (tab) -> change the name here:


----------



## GTXJackBauer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> No bug of the new version for sure. This is a problem with the interface connections between the main controller, the display and the touch controller. Likely that you have not noticed it so far and that it was already like this before you performed the update. You should unfasten the screws at the front so that you can pull off the cover incl. the touch control. I recommend that you also remove the distance pieces underneath so you can also pull off the display. The main controller and display use pins to male contact to the removed parts. Get a flat a sturdy thing and slightly bend those pins to the side so that they will make a proper contact for sure when you assemble everything again.


I've had issues with the faceplate so that explains why its saying this than. I've spoken to sebastian and he advised me on reconnecting the front panel. I did and the issues still exist. I will have to call you guys again and see how to process a RMA for either the whole unit or just the faceplate. I also have a black plate that has one of the holes out of spec. The screw doesn't sit well with one of the holes.

After RMAing what looked to me to be a used Aquaero 6 XT from Performance-PCS back in late November of last year, I got a new a couple weeks later with what seems to be a faulty one with a out of spec black faceplate. I had to pay for shipping to ship to them and on the way back since they added the AQ with a small purchase I had. So this thing cost me way more than it should have. (Gasp) And the never ending broken record is still playing in the background. Hopefully I can get all of this resolved soon for once and for all.


----------



## Barefooter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fat4l*
> 
> ok another question.
> what are the dimensions of the custom made heatsink, in cm ?
> Has anyone done such modification ?
> 
> 
> Also, when I want this Flow sensor "high flow" G1/4 for aquaero to work with aquaero 6, I need to buy Connection cable for flow sensor, length 70 cm right ?
> Then, I will just connect it to "flow" connector right ?
> Is there any need for calibration with the said flow meter?
> 
> *Also, when changing to black front panel, which screws should I buy, if I want them to be black?*
> What type/shape are they ? Any pics?
> 
> What I'm planning to do is to connect my 2x ek DDC pwm pumps to one header using EK-Cable Y-Splitter 2-Fan PWM. The power connector will be plugged directly to the PSU.
> Then, I will be using loads of Thermaltake Riing 12 Red and some Thermaltake Riing 14 Red fans connected to aquaero via these splitters.
> 
> Makes sense right ?


The screws are M3x.5 5mm length, flat head.


----------



## fat4l

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Barefooter*
> 
> The screws are M3x.5 5mm length, flat head.


thanks man.
I also saw something like..."countersunk". Any idea whats that ?
+rep


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fat4l*
> 
> ok another question.
> what are the dimensions of the custom made heatsink, in cm ?
> Has anyone done such modification ?
> 
> 
> Also, when I want this Flow sensor "high flow" G1/4 for aquaero to work with aquaero 6, I need to buy Connection cable for flow sensor, length 70 cm right ?
> Then, I will just connect it to "flow" connector right ?
> Is there any need for calibration with the said flow meter?
> 
> Also, when changing to black front panel, which screws should I buy, if I want them to be black?
> What type/shape are they ? Any pics?
> 
> What I'm planning to do is to connect my 2x ek DDC pwm pumps to one header using EK-Cable Y-Splitter 2-Fan PWM. The power connector will be plugged directly to the PSU.
> Then, I will be using loads of Thermaltake Riing 12 Red and some Thermaltake Riing 14 Red fans connected to aquaero via these splitters.
> 
> Makes sense right ?


Yes for the flow sensor and cable. Those are the correct links. No need for calibration with that type of flow meter. About the panel you will need to heat up a bit the original faceplate just enough to make the glue more fluid and use a small knife or blade to separate from the aquaero (very carefully). After that place the black faceplate on it and the glue there should hold the faceplate in place. You can either buy the same screws in black or you can just paint the original one if you have a matte black paint can laying around. If you are using a 2x ddc pumps just make sure the splitter have one full pinout (4 pins) while the other does not have the rpm report signal pin. Otherwise both pumps will send rpm signal to Aquaero and will create a weird variation on the report rpm. The ek splitter is done right so no problem there. About the fan splitter you need to make sure all of them are made the way I described (only one fan head with full pinout).
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> Nothing new but this time the overview pages also have multi-language support and will change with the language setting of the aquasuite. To change the text you would have to edit the XAML code of object in question. Right click -> settings -> display (tab) -> change the name here:


If I right click on the object (let's say the graph of water temp) I can see the old "user defined" title in the display tab. But changing that does not change the title of the graph that seems to be treated now as a different object. That object does not have the option "user defined" title on the display tab, only the text alignment option is there:




about editing the XAML code I did not known the option/shortcut key for it...f12 did not work.


----------



## fat4l

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Yes for the flow sensor and cable. Those are the correct links. No need for calibration with that type of flow meter. About the panel you will need to heat up a bit the original faceplate just enough to make the glue more fluid and use a small knife or blade to separate from the aquaero (very carefully). After that place the black faceplate on it and the glue there should hold the faceplate in place. You can either buy the same screws in black or you can just paint the original one if you have a matte black paint can laying around. If you are using a 2x ddc pumps just make sure the splitter have one full pinout (4 pins) while the other does not have the rpm report signal pin. Otherwise both pumps will send rpm signal to Aquaero and will create a weird variation on the report rpm. The ek splitter is done right so no problem there. About the fan splitter you need to make sure all of them are made the way I described (only one fan head with full pinout).


thx !!
+rep


----------



## Barefooter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fat4l*
> 
> thanks man.
> I also saw something like..."countersunk". Any idea whats that ?
> +rep


A flat head has a tapered or "countersunk" head. Here's a picture http://www.ebay.com/itm/100-PCS-M3-Allen-Bolt-Hex-Socket-Flat-Head-Screw-Alloy-Bolts-Screws-Black-/281791542029?var=580788364043&hash=item419c15b30d:m:mjBmuJVDpTv9ejMeCMQRxyg


----------



## fat4l

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Barefooter*
> 
> A flat head has a tapered or "countersunk" head. Here's a picture http://www.ebay.com/itm/100-PCS-M3-Allen-Bolt-Hex-Socket-Flat-Head-Screw-Alloy-Bolts-Screws-Black-/281791542029?var=580788364043&hash=item419c15b30d:m:mjBmuJVDpTv9ejMeCMQRxyg


Nice. So these will work right ?
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/M3-x-6mm-3-x-6-Black-Inner-Hex-Flat-Socket-Countersunk-Screw-10-Metric-Thread-/400939668453?hash=item5d59ddd3e5:g:YZIAAOSwyQtVgW85


----------



## jvillaveces

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *fat4l*
> 
> ok another question.
> what are the dimensions of the custom made heatsink, in cm ?
> Has anyone done such modification ?
> 
> 
> Also, when I want this Flow sensor "high flow" G1/4 for aquaero to work with aquaero 6, I need to buy Connection cable for flow sensor, length 70 cm right ?
> Then, I will just connect it to "flow" connector right ?
> Is there any need for calibration with the said flow meter?
> 
> Also, when changing to black front panel, which screws should I buy, if I want them to be black?
> What type/shape are they ? Any pics?
> 
> What I'm planning to do is to connect my 2x ek DDC pwm pumps to one header using EK-Cable Y-Splitter 2-Fan PWM. The power connector will be plugged directly to the PSU.
> Then, I will be using loads of Thermaltake Riing 12 Red and some Thermaltake Riing 14 Red fans connected to aquaero via these splitters.
> 
> Makes sense right ?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yes for the flow sensor and cable. Those are the correct links. No need for calibration with that type of flow meter. About the panel you will need to heat up a bit the original faceplate just enough to make the glue more fluid and use a small knife or blade to separate from the aquaero (very carefully). After that place the black faceplate on it and the glue there should hold the faceplate in place. You can either buy the same screws in black or you can just paint the original one if you have a matte black paint can laying around. If you are using a 2x ddc pumps just make sure the splitter have one full pinout (4 pins) while the other does not have the rpm report signal pin. Otherwise both pumps will send rpm signal to Aquaero and will create a weird variation on the report rpm. The ek splitter is done right so no problem there. About the fan splitter you need to make sure all of them are made the way I described (only one fan head with full pinout).
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> Nothing new but this time the overview pages also have multi-language support and will change with the language setting of the aquasuite. To change the text you would have to edit the XAML code of object in question. Right click -> settings -> display (tab) -> change the name here:
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> If I right click on the object (let's say the graph of water temp) I can see the old "user defined" title in the display tab. But changing that does not change the title of the graph that seems to be treated now as a different object. That object does not have the option "user defined" title on the display tab, only the text alignment option is there:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> about editing the XAML code I did not known the option/shortcut key for it...f12 did not work.
Click to expand...

If you double click on the object, you will see a window with a "Display" tab on it. Select that tab, and you get the xaml code. Just look for the test string currently displayed and change it to whatever you want.


----------



## Barefooter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fat4l*
> 
> Nice. So these will work right ?
> http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/M3-x-6mm-3-x-6-Black-Inner-Hex-Flat-Socket-Countersunk-Screw-10-Metric-Thread-/400939668453?hash=item5d59ddd3e5:g:YZIAAOSwyQtVgW85


The ones you linked are 6mm long, might be too long. I know the 5mm ones work.


----------



## Shoggy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> If I right click on the object (let's say the graph of water temp) I can see the old "user defined" title in the display tab. But changing that does not change the title of the graph that seems to be treated now as a different object.


It is no regular text object. It is bound to the name of the sensor which is the reason why you can not edit it on the overview page. If you want to use a custom text there you have to remove the current one and add your own. To make the difference a bit clearer:


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jvillaveces*
> 
> If you double click on the object, you will see a window with a "Display" tab on it. Select that tab, and you get the xaml code. Just look for the test string currently displayed and change it to whatever you want.


no you don't. that is exactly my post (look at picture one). Not for the text object that now is separate from the rest. I got the code for other objects but not for the title thing which now is a separate object.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> It is no regular text object. It is bound to the name of the sensor which is the reason why you can not edit it on the overview page. If you want to use a custom text there you have to remove the current one and add your own. To make the difference a bit clearer:


Thks Shoggy I did understood that. In other words to change the object name (say the temp sensor in Aquaero 6) I need to go there (temp sensor tab in the Aquaero) and change its name and it will appear so in real time in the aquasuite display. My point was that in the old software the display tab gave you the option to use a "user defined title". That is fine, no big deal just different from what I used to use the aquasuite. The old way however gave a bit more flexibility because if you have lets say two flow sensors I could rename they to be GPU flow rate and CPU flow rate instead of having two "flow rate" displayed....


----------



## Shoggy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> My point was in the old software the display tab gave you the option to use a "user defined title".


And this option is still there when you select a different preset object. Add a new item, select a sensor and click its name with the chart symbol next to it, change to display tab and there you can enable the option for a user defined text and edit it.

The new overview pages do not use these objects anymore since they do not allow to get the current style. The new stuff uses a lot of custom objects while the old pages mainly used presets.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> And this option is still there when you select a different preset object. Add a new item, select a sensor and click its name with the chart symbol next to it, change to display tab and there you can enable the option for a user defined text and edit it.
> 
> The new overview pages do not use these objects anymore since they do not allow to get the current style. The new stuff uses a lot of custom objects while the old pages mainly used presets.


got it thks. But I solved renaming the default sensor names in the Aquaero even if my two mps are usb connected. I like the new visual more so here is an example of adding the new object or using the presets:


----------



## ratzofftoya

If I just sorta...snip off the LED on the Farbwerk (I really hate the blue color), will it still work? Or do I need to desolder and attach a different LED? Or cover w/ electrical tape?

Thanks!


----------



## Mega Man

It will be fine but no warranty


----------



## ozzy1925

am i missing something or set by controller option removed for the fan settings with the new aquasuite?


----------



## Shoggy

Not sure what you are missing here. Seems you must come from a veeeeeeeeery old version. You can use the fan channels directly in the controllers tab without any changes.


----------



## ozzy1925

i found out i forgot to add the data source when selecting the curve controller


----------



## fat4l

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Barefooter*
> 
> The ones you linked are 6mm long, might be too long. I know the 5mm ones work.


Well its hard to find 5mm ones here in the UK. If needed I will just dremmel them








Thanks!

@Shoggy, can you tell us if aquaero 7 is coming this year?
I'm about to buy 6 XT, but I would rather wait for a new version if it's coming any time soon.


----------



## Shoggy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fat4l*
> 
> @Shoggy, can you tell us if aquaero 7 is coming this year?


Even if one would be released on next Monday, you would not hear a single piece of information of it from me.


----------



## fat4l

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> Even if one would be released on next Monday, you would not hear a single piece of information of it from me.


That's understandable


----------



## InfoSeeker

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> So Far so good Shoggy. I like the new layout/appearance. The only thing so far I notice that I missed is not been able to give a custom name for things using the settings option (right-click mouse).
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Where does one obtain the "new layout"? I only see the old, boring layout.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *InfoSeeker*
> 
> [/SPOILER]
> Where does one obtain the "new layout"? I only see the old, boring layout.


create a new page or import the aquaero 5-6 demo from the files after installing the 2016 version


----------



## LostParticle

Is there, somewhere, inside the Aquasuite a "Check for Updates" feature?


----------



## LostParticle

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> create a new page or import the aquaero 5-6 demo from the files after installing the 2016 version


Yeah, what do you mean with the "New Layout"? I just created a simple Overview Page and it looks similar to the one I created last time I used it, like a year or so ago.


----------



## InfoSeeker

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> create a new page or import the aquaero 5-6 demo from the files after installing the 2016 version


Got it... or, I see said the blind man, err, blind person (pc ftw).
So the new demo page just takes advantage of some new options with the object creation tools... nice, very nice.

EDIT: Unfortunately the "Log Data Chart" option does not appear to have any tweaks available to it. Hopefully I am missing something.


----------



## Costas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LostParticle*
> 
> Yeah, what do you mean with the "New Layout"? I just created a simple Overview Page and it looks similar to the one I created last time I used it, like a year or so ago.


Create a new layout then select 'import'.

Now navigate to the installed aquasuite directory and take a look in the 'content' then 'page' directory. Now import the aquaero_5_6.page file...


----------



## InfoSeeker

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LostParticle*
> 
> Is there, somewhere, inside the Aquasuite a "Check for Updates" feature?


According to the aquaero manual, page 20, the news feed in the lower left corner of aquasuite is an option.


But Shoggy has also stated that the news feed does not get updated until the software is passed the initial bug-eradication stage.


----------



## LostParticle

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Costas*
> 
> Create a new layout then select 'import'.
> 
> Now navigate to the installed aquasuite directory and take a look in the 'content' then 'page' directory. Now import the aquaero_5_6.page file...


Ah, okay, got it now, thank you!








Why, though, isn't this new page there by default?


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!







Quote:


> Originally Posted by *InfoSeeker*
> 
> According to the aquaero manual, page 20, the news feed in the lower left corner of aquasuite is an option.
> 
> 
> But Shoggy has also stated that the news feed does not get updated until the software is passed the initial bug-eradication stage.


Okay, I see, yeah right, well... I have seen the News Feed once or twice - I do not think it appears each time I open the Aquasuite - but anyway, each time I look at it, it always states something outdated so I've stopped looking at it. I do not mind that the Aquasuite does not have a real "New Update available" notification or a "Check for Updates" feature, however let me tell you why I asked: couple of days ago when Shoggy announced it, I too have updated to the latest Aquasuite 2016 - 1. Then I returned to this thread and, by luck - by accident, I clicked on your screenshot at post #6675, and only this way I discovered there is a new Aquasuite - 1.1, downloaded it and installed it! IF I wouldn't have maximized your screenshot and glance at the version I would not have known that there is a newer version already!
And by the way, in this latest version, as well, the pop-up window informing about the location (the path) of the user_settings.bak file, is still in German, tsiki-tsiki-boom German!... All other messages are in English.

No problem, just describing what happened to me.


----------



## Mega Man

aquasuite is outdated means you need to update ...


----------



## LostParticle

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> aquasuite is outdated means you need to update ...


Hi there, [I'm] not sure if you're referring to my post, and I apologize in advance if you were not, here is what I see though when I click on the "News Feed", today:


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!







The screenshot speaks for itself: no hint / clue that even a beta is available.

Now, I realize that version 1-1 might not be the final version yet but still I believe that the News Feed is not the most appropriate way of informing the user that a new update is available. Nothing of a big deal for me, as I already said, and definitely not in the mood to "play with words" in a foreign language (English).

Thank you.


----------



## bfedorov11

Any idea why I cannot get rpm readings on 2 channels? Channels 1 is bunch of ap15 fans, 0 rpm reading. Channel 2 works, 3 pwm 2k rpm fans. Channel 3 rpm fluctuate. It is 6 pwm 1850 rpm case fans. They're connected to fan splitter blocks. They're not missing pins so they should be passing signal back. I am using a 6 pro.


----------



## Mega Man

Are you sure ONLY 1 fan is sending back rpm info?


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bfedorov11*
> 
> Any idea why I cannot get rpm readings on 2 channels? Channels 1 is bunch of ap15 fans, 0 rpm reading. Channel 2 works, 3 pwm 2k rpm fans. Channel 3 rpm fluctuate. It is 6 pwm 1850 rpm case fans. They're connected to fan splitter blocks. They're not missing pins so they should be passing signal back. I am using a 6 pro.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> Are you sure ONLY 1 fan is sending back rpm info?


exactly this. Sounds like your splitter have all pins in all fan headers. Ergo all are reporting the rpm and getting the Aquaero mixing things up. Test with only one fan connected.


----------



## ratzofftoya

So, one of my Aquabus cables from my Aquacomputer pump was not working, and controlling through USB was a pain and created some cable management woes, so I think I've basically just decided to leave my pumps at 100% with only the power cable pugged in. They are basically inaudible, and I can't imagine the power draw is too killer. Am I making a mistake?


----------



## ruffhi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zenworm*
> 
> Hey everyone! I'm having some issues with the Aquaero 6 and the Silverstone fan hub (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00VNW556I/ref=ask_ql_qh_dp_hza).
> 
> If I don't plug in the fan hub's SATA power, the fans don't seem to be getting power no matter what I do with the Aquaero.
> 
> If I plug in the SATA power for the hub, the fans only run at 100% no matter what I do to the voltage, RPM, etc.
> 
> I've tried searching the forums and can't find anything on this... any help would be appreciated!
> 
> Thanks in advance.


I have a question about the Silverstonetek fan hub.
It has outlet to run 8 fans off one sata power cable.
I can plug multiple sata power cables into one cable that connects to a PSU side sata plug.

So ... how many of these Silverstonetek hubs can I connect to a single 6-pin outlet on a PSU?
Or ... how many fans can I run from a single 6-pin outlet on a PSU?

Oh - and is there an easy formula to work this out?


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ruffhi*
> 
> I have a question about the Silverstonetek fan hub.
> It has outlet to run 8 fans off one sata power cable.
> I can plug multiple sata power cables into one cable that connects to a PSU side sata plug.
> 
> So ... how many of these Silverstonetek hubs can I connect to a single 6-pin outlet on a PSU?
> Or ... how many fans can I run from a single 6-pin outlet on a PSU?
> 
> Oh - and is there an easy formula to work this out?


Certainly more than you could realistically connect.


----------



## RDKing2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> Certainly more than you could realistically connect.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ruffhi*
> 
> I have a question about the Silverstonetek fan hub.
> It has outlet to run 8 fans off one sata power cable.
> I can plug multiple sata power cables into one cable that connects to a PSU side sata plug.
> 
> So ... how many of these Silverstonetek hubs can I connect to a single 6-pin outlet on a PSU?
> Or ... how many fans can I run from a single 6-pin outlet on a PSU?
> 
> Oh - and is there an easy formula to work this out?


What Jakusonfire said. Depending on the fan, a single 6 pin would handle about 40-50 fans.


----------



## ruffhi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> Certainly more than you could realistically connect.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RDKing2*
> 
> What Jakusonfire said. Depending on the fan, a single 6 pin would handle about 40-50 fans.


Thx guys. I will probably end up with 14 Cryorig Performance QF120 fans in the pedestal (6 per radiator, 1 at the front, 1 at the back) controlled off 2 of the silverstonetek hubs. I'm planning on replacing the sata connection with a red 3-pin fan connector and plumb that straight into a 6-pin PSU 'port' ... but I will have to see how that turns out.


----------



## CookieSayWhat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ratzofftoya*
> 
> So, one of my Aquabus cables from my Aquacomputer pump was not working, and controlling through USB was a pain and created some cable management woes, so I think I've basically just decided to leave my pumps at 100% with only the power cable pugged in. They are basically inaudible, and I can't imagine the power draw is too killer. Am I making a mistake?


If the sound doesn't bother you the only things you're potentially missing out on are the temp sensor on the pump and the ability to have the pump set up to an alarm incase of failure.

Or if you just enjoy tinkering a whole lot, you'll miss out on changing the RPM's for kicks.


----------



## apw63

If I rest my aquareo 6 to default setting, will I need to reestablish aquabus communication by attaching usb cables to the MPS devices?


----------



## wa3pnt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *apw63*
> 
> If I rest my aquareo 6 to default setting, will I need to reestablish aquabus communication by attaching usb cables to the MPS devices?


Don't take this as gospel, but I do not think you will have to reinstall the USB cables.

Things such as Aquabus address, and USB/Aquabus priority for items like the MPS devices, Pumps, etc. are stored in those devices. Hence once set through the Aquasuite program should not be affected by an "Aquaero" reset.

If, from within Aquasuite, you reset a particular device (such as a MPS Flow Sensor) then that Aquabus address would be reset to factory default and might need to be changed, and would require a USB connection.

RodeoGeorge


----------



## hyp36rmax

What fan splitter hubs do you recommend for the 6XT?


----------



## Jflisk

Anyone have any ideas on hooking up a buzzer for alarm to the Aquaero 5 . What hardware works or what would I need to install a alarm buzzer. Thanks in advance.


----------



## Mega Man

5v or 12v buzzer

Personally 5v would be better (all dc) then imo wire it to 5v standby so the buzzer will work if your pc is on or off.

Hook 5vsb to plus on buzzer and negative on buzzer to ground, break the line between 5v and the buzzer using com and n.o. then set up the aquaero to close the relay when you have said alarm
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hyp36rmax*
> 
> What fan splitter hubs do you recommend for the 6XT?


For what kind of fans

Do you mind minor modification of the hubs


----------



## Jflisk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> 5v or 12v buzzer
> 
> Personally 5v would be better (all dc) then imo wire it to 5v standby so the buzzer will work if your pc is on or off.
> 
> Hook 5vsb to plus on buzzer and negative on buzzer to ground, break the line between 5v and the buzzer using com and n.o. then set up the aquaero to close the relay when you have said alarm
> For what kind of fans
> 
> Do you mind minor modification of the hubs


Mega any other ideas . The one above is great but I am using the relay to turn the computer off. Thanks


----------



## hyp36rmax

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> 5v or 12v buzzer
> 
> Personally 5v would be better (all dc) then imo wire it to 5v standby so the buzzer will work if your pc is on or off.
> 
> Hook 5vsb to plus on buzzer and negative on buzzer to ground, break the line between 5v and the buzzer using com and n.o. then set up the aquaero to close the relay when you have said alarm
> For what kind of fans
> 
> Do you mind minor modification of the hubs


 Gentle Typhoons. AP30's and PWM nidec servos 2150's


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jflisk*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> 5v or 12v buzzer
> 
> Personally 5v would be better (all dc) then imo wire it to 5v standby so the buzzer will work if your pc is on or off.
> 
> Hook 5vsb to plus on buzzer and negative on buzzer to ground, break the line between 5v and the buzzer using com and n.o. then set up the aquaero to close the relay when you have said alarm
> For what kind of fans
> 
> Do you mind minor modification of the hubs
> 
> 
> 
> Mega any other ideas . The one above is great but I am using the relay to turn the computer off. Thanks
Click to expand...

Assuming the fan channels are full use a 12v buzzer and write then to the 12v pwm channel (2 pin) make sure the buzzer is less then 1a ( should be but never know ) or use the pwm (2 pin) to close a relay.

Just to verify you do know the aq has a built in buzzer? Unless your wiring is going to another room it should be ok to use that one
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hyp36rmax*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> 5v or 12v buzzer
> 
> Personally 5v would be better (all dc) then imo wire it to 5v standby so the buzzer will work if your pc is on or off.
> 
> Hook 5vsb to plus on buzzer and negative on buzzer to ground, break the line between 5v and the buzzer using com and n.o. then set up the aquaero to close the relay when you have said alarm
> 
> For what kind of fans
> 
> Do you mind minor modification of the hubs
> 
> 
> 
> Gentle Typhoons. AP30's and PWM nidec servos 2150's
Click to expand...

So pwm only?

No modifications swiftech 8 way splitter ( on edge (2g) in china will have to Google it yourself, sorry )

If you don't mind cutting the rpm trace/pin (its easy) then the modmytoys works well

For voltage the modmytoys as well. But iirc you have to cut the rpm trace again


----------



## hyp36rmax

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> Assuming the fan channels are full use a 12v buzzer and write then to the 12v pwm channel (2 pin) make sure the buzzer is less then 1a ( should be but never know ) or use the pwm (2 pin) to close a relay.
> 
> Just to verify you do know the aq has a built in buzzer? Unless your wiring is going to another room it should be ok to use that one
> *So pwm only?
> 
> No modifications swiftech 8 way splitter ( on edge (2g) in china will have to Google it yourself, sorry )
> 
> If you don't mind cutting the rpm trace/pin (its easy) then the modmytoys works well
> 
> For voltage the modmytoys as well. But iirc you have to cut the rpm trace again*


Awesome! No worries. Thanks!!


----------



## Jflisk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> 5v or 12v buzzer
> 
> Personally 5v would be better (all dc) then imo wire it to 5v standby so the buzzer will work if your pc is on or off.
> 
> Hook 5vsb to plus on buzzer and negative on buzzer to ground, break the line between 5v and the buzzer using com and n.o. then set up the aquaero to close the relay when you have said alarm
> For what kind of fans
> 
> Do you mind minor modification of the hubs


Mega -I did not know there was a buzzer on the board . Just looked at the picture of it online (mines tucked in there) sure enough Its there -Thanks


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *apw63*
> 
> If I rest my aquareo 6 to default setting, will I need to reestablish aquabus communication by attaching usb cables to the MPS devices?


Nope, once usb devices are configured they are configured. You only need to attach usb again to change any of those settings


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jflisk*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> 5v or 12v buzzer
> 
> Personally 5v would be better (all dc) then imo wire it to 5v standby so the buzzer will work if your pc is on or off.
> 
> Hook 5vsb to plus on buzzer and negative on buzzer to ground, break the line between 5v and the buzzer using com and n.o. then set up the aquaero to close the relay when you have said alarm
> For what kind of fans
> 
> Do you mind minor modification of the hubs
> 
> 
> 
> Mega -I did not know there was a buzzer on the board . Just looked at the picture of it online (mines tucked in there) sure enough Its there -Thanks
Click to expand...

sorry i assumed you did


----------



## Jflisk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> sorry i assumed you did


Totally missed the buzzer pod on the board .


----------



## apw63

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wa3pnt*
> 
> Don't take this as gospel, but I do not think you will have to reinstall the USB cables.
> 
> Things such as Aquabus address, and USB/Aquabus priority for items like the MPS devices, Pumps, etc. are stored in those devices. Hence once set through the Aquasuite program should not be affected by an "Aquaero" reset.
> 
> If, from within Aquasuite, you reset a particular device (such as a MPS Flow Sensor) then that Aquabus address would be reset to factory default and might need to be changed, and would require a USB connection.
> 
> RodeoGeorge


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> Nope, once usb devices are configured they are configured. You only need to attach usb again to change any of those settings


Thank you both, this will make my rebuild/replumb a lot easier


----------



## Jflisk

I figured I would give this one a try since the best of the best pass thru here every so often. Koolance flow sensor minus the adapter . Can It be directly connected to the flow port of the Aquaero . I have seen a couple of references to this being possible. But the information is few and far in between. Somebody had a diagram of how this works but it is so old the link is dead. I already have the adapter but was thinking I can get rid of it and go direct anyone with any information on this one. Thanks in advance


----------



## Wam7

I've started to delve into my 'new' Aquaero 6 Pro but it seems that the Fan4 controller is not working with any fan I try in it. Whatever I set the Max RPM to it is not changed. Is this common? What to do?


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wam7*
> 
> I've started to delve into my 'new' Aquaero 6 Pro but it seems that the Fan4 controller is not working with any fan I try in it. Whatever I set the Max RPM to it is not changed. Is this common? What to do?


Two possibilities. Add the fan to a controller in Aquasuite. The set the rpm and see if changes. Another possibility the fan channel is configured to be pwm regulated and your fans are volt regulated.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jflisk*
> 
> I figured I would give this one a try since the best of the best pass thru here every so often. Koolance flow sensor minus the adapter . Can It be directly connected to the flow port of the Aquaero . I have seen a couple of references to this being possible. But the information is few and far in between. Somebody had a diagram of how this works but it is so old the link is dead. I already have the adapter but was thinking I can get rid of it and go direct anyone with any information on this one. Thanks in advance


short answer, no, long answer no, afaik even itdiva uses the adapter and if she cant do it, i am convinced no one can
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Wam7*
> 
> I've started to delve into my 'new' Aquaero 6 Pro but it seems that the Fan4 controller is not working with any fan I try in it. Whatever I set the Max RPM to it is not changed. Is this common? What to do?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Two possibilities. Add the fan to a controller in Aquasuite. The set the rpm and see if changes. Another possibility the fan channel is configured to be pwm regulated and your fans are volt regulated.
Click to expand...

he is correct very good possibility, and i am in china i would need to be in front of one to help you if you are not using aquasuite and instead just using the controller !


----------



## Jflisk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> short answer, no, long answer no, afaik even itdiva uses the adapter and if she cant do it, i am convinced no noe can
> he is correct very good possibility, and i am in china i would need to be in front of one to help you if you are not using aquasuite and instead just using the controller !


Mega got it like I said old post on old forums . So Staying with adapter it is then. Thanks again


----------



## GTXJackBauer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jflisk*
> 
> Mega got it like I said old post on old forums . So Staying with adapter it is then. Thanks again


Yup, I've been looking everywhere and spoke to a few here about it as its been brought up quite a few times. Just wish it was universally compatible.


----------



## Cozmo85

How accurate are the pictures of the screen. Is it a poor quality LCD with a bluish backlight?

Also can this control my ek pwm ddc pump and fans using my regular old water temp sensor?


----------



## Mega Man

Yes you can, I would recommend water to air delta ( the aq comes with 4 air sensors )

You will need to do the itdiva mod search this thread iirc 2nd or 3rd post in this thread

Imo the screen is awesome. Not talking tv or monitor quality but I mean are you really expecting that you can but the 5LT but if you need better voltage control ( cooler vrms ) or more then 1 pwm channel then you can just but the 6pro and remove the display if it bothers you that much


----------



## Cozmo85

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> Yes you can, I would recommend water to air delta ( the aq comes with 4 air sensors )
> 
> You will need to do the itdiva mod search this thread iirc 2nd or 3rd post in this thread
> 
> Imo the screen is awesome. Not talking tv or monitor quality but I mean are you really expecting that you can but the 5LT but if you need better voltage control ( cooler vrms ) or more then 1 pwm channel then you can just but the 6pro and remove the display if it bothers you that much


The DDC pwm pumps need a mod as well?

I was just trying to get an idea of how the screen actually looks. Thanks


----------



## Costas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cozmo85*
> 
> The DDC pwm pumps need a mod as well?


No, they will work as is with an Aquaero.


----------



## Mega Man

No ddcs are fine, Lang did not follow intel pwm specs when they made the d5, however Aquacomputer has a d5 that does not need the mod


----------



## wa3pnt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jflisk*
> 
> I figured I would give this one a try since the best of the best pass thru here every so often. Koolance flow sensor minus the adapter . Can It be directly connected to the flow port of the Aquaero . I have seen a couple of references to this being possible. But the information is few and far in between. Somebody had a diagram of how this works but it is so old the link is dead. I already have the adapter but was thinking I can get rid of it and go direct anyone with any information on this one. Thanks in advance


It seems like everyone is stating that the Koolance INS-FM17N Flow Meter cannot be used with the Aquaero (on the "FLOW" input).

I knew that I had read differently, and finally found the post I have been seeking on the subject.

Please check Post # 6 in this thread on the Aquacomputer Forum. And note that a calibration factor of 197 is required.

http://forum.aquacomputer.de/weitere-foren/english-forum/p1292846-aquaero-with-2-wire-flow-meter/?highlight=koolance#post1292846

RodeoGeorge


----------



## GTXJackBauer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wa3pnt*
> 
> It seems like everyone is stating that the Koolance INS-FM17N Flow Meter cannot be used with the Aquaero (on the "FLOW" input).
> 
> I knew that I had read differently, and finally found the post I have been seeking on the subject.
> 
> Please check Post # 6 in this thread on the Aquacomputer Forum. And note that a calibration factor of 197 is required.
> 
> http://forum.aquacomputer.de/weitere-foren/english-forum/p1292846-aquaero-with-2-wire-flow-meter/?highlight=koolance#post1292846
> 
> RodeoGeorge


There's more detailed information on this but unfortunately, those links are dead.


----------



## Cozmo85

Do the mounts on these work fine with caselabs cases now? I was reading that there had been a spacing problem or something.


----------



## wa3pnt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cozmo85*
> 
> Do the mounts on these work fine with caselabs cases now? I was reading that there had been a spacing problem or something.


You need to order the Short Non-Conforming Flex Bay Mount for the Aquaero.

It is the MAC-508.

RodeoGeorge


----------



## Cozmo85

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wa3pnt*
> 
> You need to order the Short Non-Conforming Flex Bay Mount for the Aquaero.
> 
> It is the MAC-508.
> 
> RodeoGeorge


Thanks, was confused as it seems some people said it was revised and some people didn't


----------



## Jflisk

@ITDeva - Have you used Koolance flow sensors what does your Aquaero read . I am trying to figure out if its a fixed number or does it vary and how is the math done. Thanks in advance just trying to figure this thing out. Think I may have a bad Flow sensor.


----------



## Cozmo85

Thanks for all the help guys. Aquaero 6 pro, caselabs goofy brackets, black faceplate, and silverstone 8 way pwm splitter on the way!


----------



## Mega Man

hahaha glad it helped !


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jflisk*
> 
> @ITDeva - Have you used Koolance flow sensors what does your Aquaero read . I am trying to figure out if its a fixed number or does it vary and how is the math done. Thanks in advance just trying to figure this thing out. Think I may have a bad Flow sensor.


Any mechanical sensor that is connected to the dedicated flow port on the Aquaero can only be configured by adjusting the PPL number or pulse per liter to a fixed value. This means that there is slight error. You can choose a value that is right on at min flow but it will be off at Max. The same is true in the reverse. So what is normally done is to use a value that is accurate at mid flow so it will only be slightly off at min and Max.


----------



## Jflisk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> Any mechanical sensor that is connected to the dedicated flow port on the Aquaero can only be configured by adjusting the PPL number or pulse per liter to a fixed value. This means that there is slight error. You can choose a value that is right on at min flow but it will be off at Max. The same is true in the reverse. So what is normally done is to use a value that is accurate at mid flow so it will only be slightly off at min and Max.


Jackson - Thanks for the quick answer the PPL is 196 for the Koolance sensors but we are talking my numbers went from 3200.0 to 337 - 556 LPM if I am doing the calculations right. Just need a base line for what the flow should read and if it varies or should be one solid number. Like I said think my sensor went bad both of my pumps are running at 4800 RPM in small loop 2 x 240 RADs and CPU block did away with my GPU blocks. When I installed the Fury X s and stuck with their AIO for now.


----------



## Flam3h

Hi,

Can anyone who has done the Diva D5 PWM mod confirm that the RPMs correctly show on the Aquaero 6?. Little confused as it looks like (after reading about the mod earlier in this thread) one or two had issues with RPM not being shown on the LCD screen after doing this mod. TIA


----------



## Methodical

Need some help. Does anyone have the measurement for the Aqua 6 Pro and Aqua 6 XT? I need them so that I can measure to ensure I can fit the controller in the STH10 with a 480mm radiator (top chamber). I want to make sure it won't interfere with the radiator and fan. I've search and can't find the measurements on these units.

Thanks

http://www.performance-pcs.com/black-ice-nemesis-480gtx-ultra-stealth-dual-core-xtreme-profile-radiator.html


----------



## Mads1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Methodical*
> 
> Need some help. Does anyone have the measurement for the Aqua 6 Pro and Aqua 6 XT? I need them so that I can measure to ensure I can fit the controller in the STH10 with a 480mm radiator (top chamber). I want to make sure it won't interfere with the radiator and fan. I've search and can't find the measurements on these units.
> 
> Thanks
> 
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/black-ice-nemesis-480gtx-ultra-stealth-dual-core-xtreme-profile-radiator.html


Dimensions W x H x D: 148 mm x 43 mm x 59 mm (aquaero 5/6 XT/PRO)


----------



## Methodical

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mads1*
> 
> Dimensions W x H x D: 148 mm x 43 mm x 59 mm (aquaero 5/6 XT/PRO)


Thanks, much appreciated.


----------



## RpeeKooz

HI GUYS
just finished my recent build..and im using aquaero 6xt to control 11 fans via 2 pwm board splitter type thing...they are cooler master jetflo 120mm..so they are pwm fans i have set up my for profiles.1 being 50 percent..the problem is they all run at 50 % except 1 on my top rad...its 100% all the time and i dont know why????..
why is this ???


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RpeeKooz*
> 
> HI GUYS
> just finished my recent build..and im using aquaero 6xt to control 11 fans via 2 pwm board splitter type thing...they are cooler master jetflo 120mm..so they are pwm fans i have set up my for profiles.1 being 50 percent..the problem is they all run at 50 % except 1 on my top rad...its 100% all the time and i dont know why????..
> why is this ???


Which splitters did you use?

Once you have the right hardware, and make the tach signal trace mod where needed, it's almost always a matter of setup in Aquasuite if you haven't made connection errors.

Easiest way to get things working is to use a preset value controller mode and test with each fan to see that they all work at least individually.

Then connect a splitter and see that each fan works as you add them to the splitter

Start at the most basic configuration, and then expand out . . . .

When it stops working right, that's what you have wrong

Darlene


----------



## Costas

Many PWM fans will run at 100% when they do not see any PWM signal so you may want to double check that the fan is connected correctly.

You also need to confirm that the actual header/board that the fan lead is plugged into is actually passing on the PWM signal from the Aquaero.

*** Looks like IT Diva just beat me to it...


----------



## Wam7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> short answer, no, long answer no, afaik even itdiva uses the adapter and if she cant do it, i am convinced no one can
> he is correct very good possibility, and i am in china i would need to be in front of one to help you if you are not using aquasuite and instead just using the controller !


China, cool what are you doing out there? (Must PM you for some pictures)







I did actually connect the USB lead but somehow it took out my bottom PCI-E slot and the USB motherboard connector that it was plugged into. At first I thought I'd got the orientation wrong but I've double checked it and got other verification and appears it was connected properly so who knows what happened. Either way I'll have to try it in an old motherboard I've got lying around as that one was my X58 with X5670 and at first I thought it has gone as the GPU that was plugged into the bottom slot stopped working so no display. Thankfully I've got another 2 PCI-E slots so not as bad as initially feared.

I've picked up another Aquaero 5 pro as well so will test them both out trying them with AquaSuite and report back..


----------



## Mega Man

That sucks.... the pcie shouldn't even share voltage, one is 12v other is 5v

As to china no pic this trip, my wife's mother is not doing so well


----------



## RpeeKooz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Which splitters did you use?
> 
> Once you have the right hardware, and make the tach signal trace mod where needed, it's almost always a matter of setup in Aquasuite if you haven't made connection errors.
> 
> Easiest way to get things working is to use a preset value controller mode and test with each fan to see that they all work at least individually.
> 
> Then connect a splitter and see that each fan works as you add them to the splitter
> 
> Start at the most basic configuration, and then expand out . . . .
> 
> When it stops working right, that's what you have wrong
> 
> Darlene


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Costas*
> 
> Many PWM fans will run at 100% when they do not see any PWM signal so you may want to double check that the fan is connected correctly.
> 
> You also need to confirm that the actual header/board that the fan lead is plugged into is actually passing on the PWM signal from the Aquaero.
> 
> *** Looks like IT Diva just beat me to it...


thanks guys fixed it...all i did was swap a fan cable extender around and now they all work properly..must of been a dodgy extender


----------



## InfoSeeker

Is anyone familiar with this modDIY "4-Pin PWM Power Distribution PCB 4-Way Block Fan Hub Power Splitter"?

Thinking it may be a petite collector for 4 MPS/aquabus devices if RPM pin is connected on all 4 male connectors


----------



## Cyber Locc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *InfoSeeker*
> 
> Is anyone familiar with this modDIY "4-Pin PWM Power Distribution PCB 4-Way Block Fan Hub Power Splitter"?
> 
> Thinking it may be a petite collector for 4 MPS/aquabus devices if RPM pin is connected on all 4 male connectors


I likey that thing, let me know how that works out







.


----------



## Dagamus NM

How would the aquaero know what to do with the different inputs from such a thing? Just because it has the pins doesn't mean that all four devices send information back on the speed sense wire otherwise it would be a jumbled mess. The CPU fan operates and sends the signal back through the cable, the three fan headers just get the 12V and PWM signals. It would not work for aqua bus.


----------



## Mega Man

That is why he is asking he wants to know if the rpm line is cut


----------



## Dagamus NM

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> That is why he is asking he wants to know if the rpm line is cut


"Thinking it may be a petite collector for 4 MPS/aquabus devices if RPM pin is connected on all 4 male connectors"

I took this as he is thinking he can connect four aqua bus components on this, but it wouldn't make sense in its intended purpose to have all four intact.

Stranger things have happened and it would indeed be nice to clean up wiring but I really doubt all four lines are intact on all four headers as it is designed for fans which wouldn't work well.


----------



## Mega Man

It is on several other fan hubs, just afyi


----------



## InfoSeeker

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dagamus NM*
> 
> "Thinking it may be a petite collector for 4 MPS/aquabus devices if RPM pin is connected on all 4 male connectors"
> 
> I took this as he is thinking he can connect four aqua bus components on this, but it wouldn't make sense in its intended purpose to have all four intact.
> 
> Stranger things have happened and it would indeed be nice to clean up wiring but I really doubt all four lines are intact on all four headers as it is designed for fans which wouldn't work well.


I have sent a query to the manufacturer, will see what they say.

If it is like a ModMyToys 4-Pin PWM Power Distribution PCB - 4-Way Block. then it will by a nice aquabus splitter.

If not, it will be a nice PWM splitter. There is also a 5 terminal version, though 6 terminals would be more useful.


----------



## Mega Man

If you need 6 modmytoys makes one I would not trust any answer from then, nor most companies, imo most responders are clueless I would just buy one and test it


----------



## InfoSeeker

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> If you need 6 modmytoys makes one I would not trust any answer from then, nor most companies, imo most responders are clueless I would just buy one and test it


With the ports on the PCB being marked CPU and then Fan 1, 2, 3, I expect the RPM pins to be clipped as a PWM splitter should be, but I will wait for an answer initially. If more research is needed, I will purchase one... their shipping is not outrages.

But actually, I see you are in China, maybe you could drop by modDIY in Hong Kong and chat them up?


----------



## Mega Man

haha sorry wont be anywhere near there, in beijing


----------



## iczerjones

Finished up my build with an Aquaero 6 Pro 2 weeks ago and couldn't be happier. Thanks to everyone in this thread for all the great info - you preemptively answered all of my questions before I even had a chance to post. I ended up with the Aquaero 6 Pro running:

Fan1: 4x Thermaltake Riing 140 (bottom rad P/P)
Fan2: 3x Swiftech Helix 140 (bottom of top rad, push)
Fan3: 3x Swiftech Helix 140 (top of top rad, pull)
Fan4: 1x Noctua NF-B9-1600 (RAID cage cooling)
Relay: Triggers 60W Meanwell PSU for dual D5 pumps
Sensors 0-5 in use for air/water temps
Aquabus (high): MPS400 flow meter sensors
RPM out: Feeds BS signal to my RAID cage to allow non-enterprise cooling control w/o the stupid alarm
Flow: MPS400 flow
LED out: Controls the light strip in my Enthoo Primo for status (replaced white with RGB)

Very much appreciated, everyone!


----------



## Cozmo85

Is there a way to mark one of the PWM headers as pump so it shows up in the pump section?


----------



## Mega Man

Yep, I believe it is in the fan section but again I am in china and can't verify


----------



## Mads1

This has probably been answered many times but can someone link me a 5/6 fan pwm splitter that works straight off the bat without cutting wires or tracers for use with the 6xt , thanks.


----------



## Cozmo85

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mads1*
> 
> This has probably been answered many times but can someone link me a 5/6 fan pwm splitter that works straight off the bat without cutting wires or tracers for use with the 6xt , thanks.


http://www.amazon.com/SilverStone-Technology-All-Black-CPF04/dp/B00VNW556I/ref=sr_1_fkmr0_3?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1455422077&sr=1-3-fkmr0&keywords=Silverstone+8+splitter


----------



## GTXJackBauer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iczerjones*
> 
> Finished up my build with an Aquaero 6 Pro 2 weeks ago and couldn't be happier. Thanks to everyone in this thread for all the great info - you preemptively answered all of my questions before I even had a chance to post. I ended up with the Aquaero 6 Pro running:
> 
> Fan1: 4x Thermaltake Riing 140 (bottom rad P/P)
> Fan2: 3x Swiftech Helix 140 (bottom of top rad, push)
> Fan3: 3x Swiftech Helix 140 (top of top rad, pull)
> Fan4: 1x Noctua NF-B9-1600 (RAID cage cooling)
> Relay: Triggers 60W Meanwell PSU for dual D5 pumps
> Sensors 0-5 in use for air/water temps
> Aquabus (high): MPS400 flow meter sensors
> RPM out: Feeds BS signal to my RAID cage to allow non-enterprise cooling control w/o the stupid alarm
> Flow: MPS400 flow
> LED out: Controls the light strip in my Enthoo Primo for status (replaced white with RGB)
> 
> Very much appreciated, everyone!


Very nice!

I can't help it but to ask, what product is that under the AQ 6 Pro. I know its a storage drive but can't find the exact one.


----------



## iczerjones

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GTXJackBauer*
> 
> Very nice!
> 
> I can't help it but to ask, what product is that under the AQ 6 Pro. I know its a storage drive but can't find the exact one.


Thanks! It is basically an older version of the Supermicro CSE-M35TQ, but with 4x 3.5", fatter drive rails, and an optical bay. The data connection is provided by a SFF-8484 SAS connector. (I'm running a SFF-8087 to SFF-8484 from my controller to the drive cage) Currently populated with a quartet of Seagate Constellation CS 4TB drives. (the crappy 'cloud' version of the enterprise drives)


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cozmo85*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mads1*
> 
> This has probably been answered many times but can someone link me a 5/6 fan pwm splitter that works straight off the bat without cutting wires or tracers for use with the 6xt , thanks.
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.amazon.com/SilverStone-Technology-All-Black-CPF04/dp/B00VNW556I/ref=sr_1_fkmr0_3?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1455422077&sr=1-3-fkmr0&keywords=Silverstone+8+splitter
Click to expand...

or the Swiftech 8 fan splitter


----------



## Mads1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> or the Swiftech 8 fan splitter


If connected to the AQ i dont need to attach a power source to the splitter do i , as it will draw from the AQ is this right.


----------



## Mega Man

No the Swiftech needs to be plugged into a sata power source,


----------



## Mads1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> No the Swiftech needs to be plugged into a sata power source,


Oh ok, is there one that dont.


----------



## Mega Man

Not that I know of, the only one I can think of needs to be modified


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mads1*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> No the Swiftech needs to be plugged into a sata power source,
> 
> 
> 
> Oh ok, is there one that dont.
Click to expand...

Not really,

That's what PWM is really all about . . .

Supply a full 12V to the device, either fan or pump, and then the PWM signal instructs the device to chop the full 12V supply into short bursts so that you can get a reduced speed without reducing the torque so much as with variable voltage control.

Having the splitter with a single 12V connection to the PSU, which it then distributes to the normal power pins of each fan headers, simplifies the wiring greatly, and means much less power has to go thru the main circuit board of the Aquaero.

Darlene


----------



## ruffhi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Supply a full 12V to the device, either fan or pump, and then the PWM signal instructs the device to chop the full 12V supply into short bursts so that you can get a reduced speed without reducing the torque so much as with variable voltage control.
> 
> Having the splitter with a single 12V connection to the PSU, which it then distributes to the normal power pins of each fan headers, simplifies the wiring greatly, and means much less power has to go thru the main circuit board of the Aquaero.
> 
> Darlene


I may have asked this question before ... but how many fans can a 12V connection power? I think the answer I previously got was something like _'lots'_.


----------



## Mega Man

it depends on the amp rating of the fan i wanna say 7.5a ( but i could be wrong on this as i am going from memory ) for sata and 10a for fat 4 pin


----------



## ruffhi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> it depends on the amp rating of the fan i wanna say 7.5a ( but i could be wrong on this as i am going from memory ) for sata and 10a for fat 4 pin


I've ordered 14 QF120 Cryorig Balanced fans. I can't see an amp rating on their web site but one of the reviews (thermalbench) contains the following passage ...
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Thermal Bench QF120 Review*
> 
> _There's no real info on the back of the hub here. I am used to seeing model numbers, manufacture date, fan name, current draw rating, power draw rating or any combination of these. But aside from the max advertised RPM and the company name, there's nothing else here. The product box has a 2014 date on it but that may be just for the packaging itself. The thing that I am missing most though is the power rating. I would really encourage Cryorig to publish max start up current/power draw and max operating current/power draw. While I can't measure the start up current itself, *I did measure a max operating current draw of 0.263 A on average across these fans*. This corresponds to ~3.2 W each on the 12 V rail. Given that most modern motherboards have standard 1 A fan headers and can accommodate a decent level of start up boost, you should be able to power 3 of these off a single header- in theory anyway. Alternatively, you can also power them from provided Molex adapter or use a powered PWM splitter. If using this as a case fan or as a heatsink fan where having 1-2 fans together is the norm rather than the exception, then you should be good with a standard motherboard PWM header itself._


Excellent - thanks for the info ... if only I knew how many 0.263 A fans a 12V rail could carry. Is there a formula to cover this?


----------



## Mega Man

sure, look at your psu to see the size of your 12v rail,

i would worry more about the amp rating of whatever they are plugged in to - going from memory ( which again may be wrong ) the swiftech splitter is rated for 5a i know fat 4 pin connectors are 10a


----------



## ruffhi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> sure, look at your psu to see the size of your 12v rail.


I haven't settled on a PSU yet. The one I am looking at has ...
Quote:


> OUTPUT
> [email protected], [email protected], [email protected], [email protected], [email protected]


... so using some of those amps for 14 fans doesn't seem to be a problem.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> i would worry more about the amp rating of whatever they are plugged in to - going from memory ( which again may be wrong ) the swiftech splitter is rated for 5a i know fat 4 pin connectors are 10a


Re the splitter ... I have already purchased two SilverstoneTek (CPF04) 8 PWM fan splitters. It has a capacitor in it that shows the following (16V in case you can't see the image) ...


----------



## Mega Man

Yea you would need to email them


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ruffhi*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> sure, look at your psu to see the size of your 12v rail.
> 
> 
> 
> I haven't settled on a PSU yet. The one I am looking at has ...
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> OUTPUT
> [email protected], [email protected], [email protected], [email protected], [email protected]
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> ... so using some of those amps for 14 fans doesn't seem to be a problem.
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> i would worry more about the amp rating of whatever they are plugged in to - going from memory ( which again may be wrong ) the swiftech splitter is rated for 5a i know fat 4 pin connectors are 10a
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Re the splitter ... I have already purchased two SilverstoneTek (CPF04) 8 PWM fan splitters. It has a capacitor in it that shows the following (16V in case you can't see the image) ...
Click to expand...

You'll have no issues running 20 to 25 of those fans from a single Molex or SATA power plug, . . .

The wire gage from the splitter to the plug is more the limiting factor to minimize vdroop, . . . so I'd stay at 20 fans or less, off a single splitter power connection.

If you're using more than 1 splitter so you can have your fans grouped to multiple fan channels on the A6, then that's even better.

Darlene


----------



## ruffhi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> Yea you would need to email them


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> You'll have no issues running 20 to 25 of those fans from a single Molex or SATA power plug


Thanks guys. The plan is ...

6-pin plug from PSU from peripheral SATA

molex splitter to feed the two Silverstone fan controller

per Silverstone fan controller I will have 6 rad fans + 1 fan (either front fan or rear exhaust) .. so 7 fans per controller
The silverstone takes a SATA power input ... but I will be swapping that to MOLEX

The PWM feed will be from motherboard
_wait ... what am I saying ... this is an Aquaero thread ..._
... will be from an A6 with each rad having its own channel

It seems I am good to go.


----------



## Cozmo85

What benefit is there to buy the aquacomputer d5 with aquabus vs any standard pwm d5? Does it give any info other than RPM that i could get off any d5?


----------



## Mega Man

yes, it does not use up a fan header if you are using aquaero, , if you rae not using aquaero it does not use a fan header, now is that a plus for you or do you not care, that i cant help, that is a personal choice/opinion


----------



## Cozmo85

Im using an aquaero but dont need all 4 so there ya go. Answers that question. Just making sure it didn't have any other benefit.


----------



## GTXJackBauer

You're better off with a AQ D5 pump so you don't get stuck with a 3rd party D5 PWM pump because you'll have to modify it to get it to work properly with the Aquaero.


----------



## Cozmo85

Any idea why one of my fan channels is doing the wave?










The other channel running on the same controller is rock steady.

edit: must be something with my splitter. Setting them to power controlled is rock solid.


----------



## DMatthewStewart

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cozmo85*
> 
> Any idea why one of my fan channels is doing the wave?
> 
> The other channel running on the same controller is rock steady.
> 
> edit: must be something with my splitter. Setting them to power controlled is rock solid.


Is it a pump or a fan?

My pwm pump fluctuates like that. But IM in the process of getting a new pump. Maybe try setting it to "power controlled" and see what happens


----------



## DMatthewStewart

*Since people here know more than I do about the Aquaero and the AC components that plug into it. I was wondering if anyone knew anything about the newest Aquastream pump, certain configurations, etc.* I posted this thread. Maybe someone here can take a look and if they can help out that would be awesome. Since my questions were more pump related I didnt want to hijack the Aquaero thread

Id really like to take my Swiftech pump out and use it as my backup pump. Or even put it into a smaller build Im going to be starting

Post here:

http://www.overclock.net/t/1591444/aquacomputer-aquastream-ultimate-questions/0_30

Thanks in advance.


----------



## Cozmo85

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DMatthewStewart*
> 
> Is it a pump or a fan?
> 
> My pwm pump fluctuates like that. But IM in the process of getting a new pump. Maybe try setting it to "power controlled" and see what happens


A fan, on speed control i think it was adjusting to try to hit an rpm and was overshooting, and then would come down and undershoot. Put it on power control and its much better. Id use PWM but i can get down into the 300 range on these vardars with dc.


----------



## DMatthewStewart

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cozmo85*
> 
> A fan, on speed control i think it was adjusting to try to hit an rpm and was overshooting, and then would come down and undershoot. Put it on power control and its much better. Id use PWM but i can get down into the 300 range on these vardars with dc.


Ok, so the vardars are 4-pin pwm, right? If they are set to pwm on the aquaero and not responding correctly then something is up. How any fans are on that plug and how are they split? I had this happen before and sometimes rearranging the fans, changing how their split, etc can get it to register and respond correctly. I'll wait on your response to the questions before creating the Great Wall of text.


----------



## Sorphius

Sorry if this has already been posted somewhere; I can't be bothered to do a search right now. Do I need a special splitter to connect two D5 PWM pumps off my Aquaero 6's header? Or is a standard PWM Y-splitter sufficient?


----------



## nyck

hello,i recently upgraded my sistem with new case, new motherboard, new cpu,new radiators ecc.
i have an aquaero 6 an aquaero 5lt slave mode, one fill level sensor, one flow sensor"high flow" (vga loop) , one flow sensor"high flow usb" (cpu loop) , and a farbwerk ,after I reassembled it all I realized that a fan channel of my aq5 was not working more, i try with another fan and i try to do the hard reset and reinstalling the firmwere but this fan channel don't want work.
In the fan setting of aquasuite softwere i see that when the fan is connected at 100% of power i have 0,9V
and 1,92A and if i disconnect the fan i see 9,0V and 1,92A , and after restarting the system without fan the aquasuite softwere show me 12V and 0,74A.
I think he burned a channel,someone else any ideas?


----------



## RDKing2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sorphius*
> 
> Sorry if this has already been posted somewhere; I can't be bothered to do a search right now. Do I need a special splitter to connect two D5 PWM pumps off my Aquaero 6's header? Or is a standard PWM Y-splitter sufficient?


Assuming you are splitting just the PWM signal and power is provided to pumps by molex/sata a standard splitter is fine. Depending on the version of D5 pump you have some do not work with the Aquaero pwm signal. Search for Diva Mod in this thread.


----------



## Sorphius

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RDKing2*
> 
> Assuming you are splitting just the PWM signal and power is provided to pumps by molex/sata a standard splitter is fine. Depending on the version of D5 pump you have some do not work with the Aquaero pwm signal. Search for Diva Mod in this thread.


Thanks. I'm using Aquacomputer pumps, so was just looking for confirmation on how to split the PWM signal.


----------



## RDKing2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sorphius*
> 
> Sorry if this has already been posted somewhere; I can't be bothered to do a search right now. Do I need a special splitter to connect two D5 PWM pumps off my Aquaero 6's header? Or is a standard PWM Y-splitter sufficient?


Another thing, some pwm splitters have all four wires split. You will want the rpm reported from only one pump.


----------



## InfoSeeker

modDIYpwm.pdf 174k .pdf file

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *InfoSeeker*
> 
> Is anyone familiar with this modDIY "4-Pin PWM Power Distribution PCB 4-Way Block Fan Hub Power Splitter"?
> 
> Thinking it may be a petite collector for 4 MPS/aquabus devices if RPM pin is connected on all 4 male connectors


Receivedt a reply from modDIY - the device is a true 4 or 5 port PWM splitter with only one (1) RPM signal being passed on.

modDIY_PWMsplitter.pdf 180k .pdf file


----------



## tgass

Need some help clarifying some thing and choosing between two product.

I was thinking about getting a Aquaero, not sure which one of them, although I would love to get version 6 XT, it is quite expansive for me as the dollars is really high back here in Brazil. As it is, I actually considering buying the version 5 LT.

But I just saw that Aquacomputer just launched the Aquastream - Ultimate Version, which might or might no satisfy all of my needs as knowing the water temp and the "virtual flow". Problem is I already have a pump in my loop, a MCP50X from Swiftech and I guess that would kill the virtual flow feature.

Now I am confused and don't know what to do. Also there is this rumor that Aquacomputer might have a new version of the Aquaero on the oven for a release in 2016, adding even more to the turmoil of choosing...


----------



## jsutter71

I'm considering purchasing a the Aquastream Ultimate Version but I have a few questions. My configuration consists of two EK XE 480mm rads, two EK XE 360mm rads, three 980Ti's, and a Intel Core i7 5930K CPU. I'm using hard tubing and my case is a Caselabs STH10 Case. The two 480mm rads are in the top of the case and the two 360mm rads are in the center section. The pump will be located in the bottom section. My concern is that a single pump won't be enough for this much hardware. My current pump is a EK-XTOP Dual DDC 3.2 PWM. I have an Aquaero 6XT with a 5LT slave.

Will a single Aquastream Ultimate be enough to cool my system? And other then the control features, would it be a downgrade from my EK pump?
Thanks.


----------



## RDKing2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jsutter71*
> 
> I'm considering purchasing a the Aquastream Ultimate Version but I have a few questions. My configuration consists of two EK XE 480mm rads, two EK XE 360mm rads, three 980Ti's, and a Intel Core i7 5930K CPU. I'm using hard tubing and my case is a Caselabs STH10 Case. The two 480mm rads are in the top of the case and the two 360mm rads are in the center section. The pump will be located in the bottom section. My concern is that a single pump won't be enough for this much hardware. My current pump is a EK-XTOP Dual DDC 3.2 PWM. I have an Aquaero 6XT with a 5LT slave.
> 
> Will a single Aquastream Ultimate be enough to cool my system? And other then the control features, would it be a downgrade from my EK pump?
> Thanks.


Myself. I cannot recommend the aquastream pump. I have an XT ultra you can have real cheap if you want and then can upgrade to the ultimate version. Had it in my loop consisting of 1-560 80mm, 1-280 80mm and a 60mm 280 all alphacool, Two Titan Hydrocoppers and an EK supremacy cpu block. With the onboard VRM cooler attached flow was barely over .5 gpm. Removed the vrm cooler and flow was just over .6 gpm. While it worked imo the pump does not deal with restriction well and having two in series accomplishes nothing due the control implemented in the pump. For reference at this time after upgrading to an X99 system with the same components and two D5's in series I am getting 1.4-1.5 gpm.


----------



## RDKing2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tgass*
> 
> Need some help clarifying some thing and choosing between two product.
> 
> I was thinking about getting a Aquaero, not sure which one of them, although I would love to get version 6 XT, it is quite expansive for me as the dollars is really high back here in Brazil. As it is, I actually considering buying the version 5 LT.
> 
> But I just saw that Aquacomputer just launched the Aquastream - Ultimate Version, which might or might no satisfy all of my needs as knowing the water temp and the "virtual flow". Problem is I already have a pump in my loop, a MCP50X from Swiftech and I guess that would kill the virtual flow feature.
> 
> Now I am confused and don't know what to do. Also there is this rumor that Aquacomputer might have a new version of the Aquaero on the oven for a release in 2016, adding even more to the turmoil of choosing...


Only real reason to get the 6 over the 5 is if you need more PWM control options. The 5 only has 1 PWM connector. As far as the Aquastream pump see my other post. Regarding a new release Aquaero, If you are questioning spending more on the 6 versus the 5 I would say you most likely have no need for the new version.


----------



## Mega Man

And the vrms run much much cooler on the 6 if you control fans with voltage


----------



## DMatthewStewart

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tgass*
> 
> Need some help clarifying some thing and choosing between two product.
> 
> I was thinking about getting a Aquaero, not sure which one of them, although I would love to get version 6 XT, it is quite expansive for me as the dollars is really high back here in Brazil. As it is, I actually considering buying the version 5 LT.
> 
> But I just saw that Aquacomputer just launched the Aquastream - Ultimate Version, which might or might no satisfy all of my needs as knowing the water temp and the "virtual flow". Problem is I already have a pump in my loop, a MCP50X from Swiftech and I guess that would kill the virtual flow feature.
> 
> Now I am confused and don't know what to do. Also there is this rumor that Aquacomputer might have a new version of the Aquaero on the oven for a release in 2016, adding even more to the turmoil of choosing...


How many radiators and blocks do you have? I am using the same pump and I love that pump. I am also debating getting the Aquastream Ultimate but I may not need it. This little pump does a great job.

I am asking about how many blocks and radiators because I am using an Aquaero 5 LT with the same pump that you have. Its small, its strong, and its quiet. And it works very nicely with the Aquaero 5 LT.


----------



## jsutter71

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RDKing2*
> 
> Myself. I cannot recommend the aquastream pump. I have an XT ultra you can have real cheap if you want and then can upgrade to the ultimate version. Had it in my loop consisting of 1-560 80mm, 1-280 80mm and a 60mm 280 all alphacool, Two Titan Hydrocoppers and an EK supremacy cpu block. With the onboard VRM cooler attached flow was barely over .5 gpm. Removed the vrm cooler and flow was just over .6 gpm. While it worked imo the pump does not deal with restriction well and having two in series accomplishes nothing due the control implemented in the pump. For reference at this time after upgrading to an X99 system with the same components and two D5's in series I am getting 1.4-1.5 gpm.


That's to bad but your response confirms by suspicions. First off you get what you pay for and my EK pump cost twice the mount of the Aquastream Ultimate. My second concern was the comparison of the specs. The max flow rate for example 300l/h for the Aquacomputer compared to the EK which is 1000L/h per pump. And the Head pressure. 4.2 for the Aquastream vs 5.2 per pump on the EK. I understand that vendors aren't always accurate when they post there specs, but I wanted to hear from personal experience before I made my decision.


----------



## RDKing2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jsutter71*
> 
> That's to bad but your response confirms by suspicions. First off you get what you pay for and my EK pump cost twice the mount of the Aquastream Ultimate. My second concern was the comparison of the specs. The max flow rate for example 300l/h for the Aquacomputer compared to the EK which is 1000L/h per pump. And the Head pressure. 4.2 for the Aquastream vs 5.2 per pump on the EK. I understand that vendors aren't always accurate when they post there specs, but I wanted to hear from personal experience before I made my decision.


To be fair, the pump is fine for a simple loop. Bought this at my first try in water cooling. I wanted to use all Aquacomputer parts (a bit of a silly newbie approach). With one gpu, the cpu and two 280 rads i was getting near .8 gpm. Added the second gpu (in paralell) lost .1. Another rad and I was getting closer to the 1/2 gpm mark. My understanding is a sensor in the pump regulates rpm to pressure. So even setting the RPM higher in the software does not mean it will maintain that. With my current loop turning off one of my D5's with it still in the loop gpm stays right at 1.


----------



## hyp36rmax

Will the Silverstone SST-CPF04 PWM fan hub work with the Aquaero XT 6?


----------



## tgass

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RDKing2*
> 
> Only real reason to get the 6 over the 5 is if you need more PWM control options. The 5 only has 1 PWM connector. As far as the Aquastream pump see my other post. Regarding a new release Aquaero, If you are questioning spending more on the 6 versus the 5 I would say you most likely have no need for the new version.


Hey RDKing2, thank you for the response. Guess you are right about a new version of the Aquaero, but it would be nice if they brought back a cheaper pack like the LT, that they killed a version a go.








One can dream.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jsutter71*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *RDKing2*
> 
> Myself. I cannot recommend the aquastream pump. I have an XT ultra you can have real cheap if you want and then can upgrade to the ultimate version. Had it in my loop consisting of 1-560 80mm, 1-280 80mm and a 60mm 280 all alphacool, Two Titan Hydrocoppers and an EK supremacy cpu block. With the onboard VRM cooler attached flow was barely over .5 gpm. Removed the vrm cooler and flow was just over .6 gpm. While it worked imo the pump does not deal with restriction well and having two in series accomplishes nothing due the control implemented in the pump. For reference at this time after upgrading to an X99 system with the same components and two D5's in series I am getting 1.4-1.5 gpm.
> 
> 
> 
> That's to bad but your response confirms by suspicions. First off you get what you pay for and my EK pump cost twice the mount of the Aquastream Ultimate. My second concern was the comparison of the specs. The max flow rate for example 300l/h for the Aquacomputer compared to the EK which is 1000L/h per pump. And the Head pressure. 4.2 for the Aquastream vs 5.2 per pump on the EK. I understand that vendors aren't always accurate when they post there specs, but I wanted to hear from personal experience before I made my decision.
Click to expand...

This is far from true.

He went from ONE pump to 2.

And right tools for the right job.

Others like itdiva are welcome to tell me I am wrong but iirc that pump was one of the early models used, and the big selling point for it as I understand it isn't power, but silence.

3 blocks (1 cpu and 2 gpu ) are imo ( only my opinion - I know others won't agree with this ) you should have 2 pumps for. ...

Vrm and rads for the most part don't need to be worried about when it comes to restriction.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tgass*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *RDKing2*
> 
> Only real reason to get the 6 over the 5 is if you need more PWM control options. The 5 only has 1 PWM connector. As far as the Aquastream pump see my other post. Regarding a new release Aquaero, If you are questioning spending more on the 6 versus the 5 I would say you most likely have no need for the new version.
> 
> 
> 
> Hey RDKing2, thank you for the response. Guess you are right about a new version of the Aquaero, but it would be nice if they brought back a cheaper pack like the LT, that they killed a version a go.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> One can dream.
Click to expand...

there is no plan ( and iirc from shoggy never will be ) a 6 lt, afaik you can still get the 5lt, but the 6 can not be done and make a profit. You might say they don't need to, or that's not true, but that is what shoggy explained a while ago. But they need to make their money just like you do, so they can keep existing and making awesome products for us.


----------



## tgass

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DMatthewStewart*
> 
> How many radiators and blocks do you have? I am using the same pump and I love that pump. I am also debating getting the Aquastream Ultimate but I may not need it. This little pump does a great job.
> 
> I am asking about how many blocks and radiators because I am using an Aquaero 5 LT with the same pump that you have. Its small, its strong, and its quiet. And it works very nicely with the Aquaero 5 LT.


I got two rads, a Phobya Nova Xtreme 1080 and a Swiftech 240 that came with the H220-X. The original pump started rattling so I bought the MCP50X as a replacement and it's awesome.
I have two GPU block from Watercool, the HEATKILLER for GTX 970, and the Apogee XL that also came with the kit. But as I expanded the H220X+MCP50X with the GPU blocks and the huge rad the pump started to get a little loud, for my liking, to get the temps at full load in the GPUs even. That's why the second pump.

I did use the one from the H220X (a MCP30) and it made the temps more stable at lower pump RPMs, but the rattling from the MCP30 is driving me crazy.
Anyway, I know the Apogee XL is a bit on the restrictive side, so I have a Heatkiller IV Pro on the way, maybe it will make the work for the MCP50X easier and I can forget about adding a second pump.


----------



## tgass

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> there is no plan ( and iirc from shoggy never will be ) a 6 lt, afaik you can still get the 5lt, but the 6 can not be done and make a profit. You might say they don't need to, or that's not true, but that is what shoggy explained a while ago. But they need to make their money just like you do, so they can keep existing and making awesome products for us.


I completely understand, that's why I was also considering adding the Aquastream Ultra as a second pump to my loop - 2 GPU blocks and a CPU block... as you can see on my last post - instead of the Aquaero.


----------



## RDKing2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tgass*
> 
> Hey RDKing2, thank you for the response. Guess you are right about a new version of the Aquaero, but it would be nice if they brought back a cheaper pack like the LT, that they killed a version a go.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> One can dream.


A power adjust will accomplish many of the same things, fan control, temperature monitoring and flow input. Though there there is only one of each connector on a single PA. I might say that 4 PA is almost an LT. Though 4 PA would cost more than an Aquaero 6


----------



## tgass

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RDKing2*
> 
> A power adjust will accomplish many of the same things, fan control, temperature monitoring and flow input. Though there there is only one of each connector on a single PA. I might say that 4 PA is almost an LT. Though 4 PA would cost more than an Aquaero 6


Now that is something I didn't know about the PAs. Well, didn't really look at them either.


----------



## Master Chicken

Is there a minimum percentage or floor to the PWM output on an A6 or A6XT? My understanding is that many PWM fans won't run below 20% (or that D5's won't run well below 25%) and I'm curious if the A6 enforces a limit like this in software or allows the PWM to range freely down to zero? Perhaps there's some per channel lower limit or flag to enforce a lower limit or not?

I'm hoping there is a way to tell it to use the full range all of the way down to zero.


----------



## RDKing2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> This is far from true.
> 
> He went from ONE pump to 2.
> 
> And right tools for the right job.
> 
> Others like itdiva are welcome to tell me I am wrong but iirc that pump was one of the early models used, and the big selling point for it as I understand it isn't power, but silence.
> 
> 3 blocks (1 cpu and 2 gpu ) are imo ( only my opinion - I know others won't agree with this ) you should have 2 pumps for. ...
> 
> Vrm and rads for the most part don't need to be worried about when it comes to restriction.
> there is no plan ( and iirc from shoggy never will be ) a 6 lt, afaik you can still get the 5lt, but the 6 can not be done and make a profit. You might say they don't need to, or that's not true, but that is what shoggy explained a while ago. But they need to make their money just like you do, so they can keep existing and making awesome products for us.


Hey Mega Man, You can see in my other post I said a little more about the use. AFAIK the pump itself is pretty much unchanged for some time now. An upgrade kit is sold for the pump I have to make it an ultimate. I believe the only difference would be the added LCD and a virtual flow sensor. FWIW my two D5's with Alphacool high flow tops are simply mounted on a couple layers of 3M VHB tape. Both are on setting 5 and I cannot hear them unless I am very close. Yes you are correct in saying the emphasis on the Aquastream pumps by the manufacturer is quietness.


----------



## RDKing2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tgass*
> 
> I completely understand, that's why I was also considering adding the Aquastream Ultra as a second pump to my loop - 2 GPU blocks and a CPU block... as you can see on my last post - instead of the Aquaero.


As I mentioned the Aquastream pumps do not respond well in series. Due to the software monitoring you will see almost zero increase in flow.


----------



## funfordcobra

Can you control pwm d5s now?


----------



## RDKing2

The Aquacomputer branded PWM pumps have always been controllable by the PWM outputs. With the Dvia mod other non compatable as well.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Master Chicken*
> 
> Is there a minimum percentage or floor to the PWM output on an A6 or A6XT? My understanding is that many PWM fans won't run below 20% (or that D5's won't run well below 25%) and I'm curious if the A6 enforces a limit like this in software or allows the PWM to range freely down to zero? Perhaps there's some per channel lower limit or flag to enforce a lower limit or not?
> 
> I'm hoping there is a way to tell it to use the full range all of the way down to zero.


You can set the A6 for any min and max limits that you want to, including 0 . . . . tick the "hold minimum power" box so the controller output will not drop below the min setting, if it's not 0, when you don't want it to ever go to 0.

The 0 to 100% controller span then controls between the limits with the hmp ticked, and will be 0 when set for 0% and then jump to the min setting when at 1% if the hmp is not ticked.

Fans respond with changing speed over a wide range, from about 25% to 100%.

Most PWM Pumps, on the other hand, have their whole range of speed variation between about 15% and 70%. . . . So you'll want to optimize different settings for pump channel(s) than for fan channels

There's so little flow at the lowest possible rpms, that a more practical lower limit is 20 to 25% when you have plenty of pump capability, (very simple loop or dual pumps) and 45% or more, if you have less relative pump power and more relative loop restriction.

D.


----------



## Mega Man

also to add, iirc @0% the aq shuts off the 12v, however without a pwm signal if you have them plugged into a splitter and not directly to the aq your fans will run at 100% ! so i always leave mine at 1% min


----------



## bbragg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> You can set the A6 for any min and max limits that you want to, including 0 . . . . tick the "hold minimum power" box so the controller output will not drop below the min setting, if it's not 0, when you don't want it to ever go to 0.
> 
> The 0 to 100% controller span then controls between the limits with the hmp ticked, and will be 0 when set for 0% and then jump to the min setting when at 1% if the hmp is not ticked.
> 
> Fans respond with changing speed over a wide range, from about 25% to 100%.
> 
> Most PWM Pumps, on the other hand, have their whole range of speed variation between about 15% and 70%. . . . So you'll want to optimize different settings for pump channel(s) than for fan channels
> 
> There's so little flow at the lowest possible rpms, that a more practical lower limit is 20 to 25% when you have plenty of pump capability, (very simple loop or dual pumps) and 45% or more, if you have less relative pump power and more relative loop restriction.


Thanks. That's exactly what I was after. Quite a versatile device it seems. I'm going to try to work one into my next build.


----------



## mamun1024

Hi everyone. I am a confused newb who decided to use AQ products in my current build. I have the following components and am trying to figure out how to connect everything together.

aquaero 6 XT +Passive heat sink

poweradjust 3 USB, ultra version +Passive heat sink
poweradjust 3 USB, ultra version +Passive heat sink (don't have yet but was planning to buy)

farbwerk USB, aquabus version

D5 pump motor with USB and aquabus interface
D5 pump motor with USB and aquabus interface

RGB LED strip, black, lenght 50 cm
RGB LED strip, black, lenght 50 cm

I thought about connecting this way:

1. aquaero 6 <--> farbwerk using one of the aquabus
2. farbwerk 2nd aquabus <--> both poweradjust3 aquabus using a Y cable
3. connect each D5 pump to each poweradjust3 aquabus
4. Connect LED Strips to farbwerk

The Aquaero6 4 Pin PWM interfaces will have PWM fans from the 4 radiators.

The aquaero6, farbwerk, and the D5 pumps have 4pin aquabus interfaces.
The poweradjust 3's have 3pin aquabus interfaces. How do I do this?
Do I also need to connect everything to the PC with the USB interface?
Is this the best way of connecting the components or should I be doing something different? Thank you for your help.


----------



## CookieSayWhat

You're going to want to get a splitter or sorts, such as the ModMyToy's PMW splitter, to split the signal from the AQ6 to the devices.

AQ6 4 Pin connections high bus connections --> Splitter

Splitter ---> 4 pin or 3 pin to each pump
Splitter ----> 3 pin to PA3 and then daisy chain it to the other PA3.

Then finally you can run another line off the splitter to the farbwerk or just daisy chain it into the PA3's. (That's what I did)

Just a heads up on the Farbwerk, though, there is an aquabus in and out on it. The PA3's connections go either way.


----------



## mamun1024

Thank you. So if I use a splitter to to connect to AQ6 and connect everything else to the splitter, I don't really need the PA3's.. correct?


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mamun1024*
> 
> Hi everyone. I am a confused newb who decided to use AQ products in my current build. I have the following components and am trying to figure out how to connect everything together.
> 
> aquaero 6 XT +Passive heat sink
> 
> poweradjust 3 USB, ultra version +Passive heat sink
> poweradjust 3 USB, ultra version +Passive heat sink (don't have yet but was planning to buy)
> 
> farbwerk USB, aquabus version
> 
> D5 pump motor with USB and aquabus interface
> D5 pump motor with USB and aquabus interface
> 
> RGB LED strip, black, lenght 50 cm
> RGB LED strip, black, lenght 50 cm
> 
> I thought about connecting this way:
> 
> 1. aquaero 6 <--> farbwerk using one of the aquabus
> 2. farbwerk 2nd aquabus <--> both poweradjust3 aquabus using a Y cable
> 3. connect each D5 pump to each poweradjust3 aquabus
> 4. Connect LED Strips to farbwerk
> 
> The Aquaero6 4 Pin PWM interfaces will have PWM fans from the 4 radiators.
> 
> The aquaero6, farbwerk, and the D5 pumps have 4pin aquabus interfaces.
> The poweradjust 3's have 3pin aquabus interfaces. How do I do this?
> Do I also need to connect everything to the PC with the USB interface?
> Is this the best way of connecting the components or should I be doing something different? Thank you for your help.


you can, as shown below use a splitter if that would be better for you with the aquabus, also you dont need the ultrra version of the power adj if you are using it with your aquaero !

please note the HS is just for looks in your set up, not that that is bad. just dont want you to waste money you dont need to waste

as to he 3pin vs 4 pin aquabus dont worry about it, use the 4 pin cable, it is keyed like a fan cable so you cant install it wrong without breaking it, the 4th pin just carries voltage, which anything with the 3 pin ( fast ) aquabus DOES NOT NEED, it will get it from the PSU connection on it

as to usb yes you can or most you can also unplug [email protected] from the usb header ( you can use this if you need more usb headers )
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mamun1024*
> 
> Thank you. So if I use a splitter to to connect to AQ6 and connect everything else to the splitter, I don't really need the PA3's.. correct?


this is a personal pref [email protected]

YOU DO NOT NEED a 1 to 1 for the aquabus,

YOU CAN use splitters.

if you were not going to use them for anything but aquabus then NO DO NOT BUY them that would be a LARGE waste of monies !!!!


----------



## RDKing2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mamun1024*
> 
> Thank you. So if I use a splitter to to connect to AQ6 and connect everything else to the splitter, I don't really need the PA3's.. correct?


A PA would be used for voltage controlled fans or pump. They also provide a temp and flow input. No need to use one just for a splitter. Note if using multiple pumps or PA you will need to connect one each by USB initially to change the address or the Aquaero will see only one. Up to 2 pumps and 8 PA can be connected at the same time. As a note you do not really need the ultra version of the PA when used with the Aquaero, the added features in the ultra are mainly provided for stand alone use. The standard version can be upgraded later if you need the features.


----------



## CookieSayWhat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RDKing2*
> 
> A PA would be used for voltage controlled fans or pump. They also provide a temp and flow input. No need to use one just for a splitter. Note if using multiple pumps or PA you will need to connect one each by USB initially to change the address or the Aquaero will see only one. Up to 2 pumps and 8 PA can be connected at the same time. As a note you do not really need the ultra version of the PA when used with the Aquaero, the added features in the ultra are mainly provided for stand alone use. The standard version can be upgraded later if you need the features.


You can connect 4 pumps actually.

Well 4 MPS devices (Pumps, USB flow meter, etc.)


----------



## ShortBtwnHdset

Hi all!

General newb here, been lurking this thread for a while and slowly acquiring parts for a computer build.

Here's what I have so far for water-cooling loop.

Radiators: 240 mm alphacool 80 mm thick Monsta, 4-120 mm fans push/pull,
240 mm alphacool 60 mm thick , 4-120 mm fans push/pull,
140 mm alphacool 60 mm thick, 2-140 mm fans push/pull,

Reservoir: Aquabox pro single bay

Pump: aquastream xt regular (un-upgraded firmware),

Other fans: 4 60mm fans for RAM/VRM/motherboard cooling (pull out top of case).
up to 3 other various 120 or 140 fans.

Intending to purchase: Aquaero 6 Pro or XT controller,
EK CPU waterblock for X79 CPU

The intent is to start with just watercooling CPU for now, and when Pascall comes out, add SLI mid ranged GPU's to loop. I might get waterblock for single GTX 970 and add sometime in the interim.

Going with Aquaero 6 because you can configure up to 6 channels of PWM control.

So,first off, does PWM work well for pumps? Especially the XT?

The XT is expensive, but I've already committed myself to it. What pump could I add to it in series once GPU's are added to loop? Prefer small sized, reliable, and PWM controlled.

The various other fans will likely be controlled by Motherboard. Would rather not get a Poweradjust 3 and save on system/wiring complexity. That leaves 1 PWM channel for each rad (push/pull fans)-total 3 channels, 1 PWM channel for 60mm fans, 2 pwm channels left for 2 pumps. By my calcs, I shouldn't be maxing the amps per channel, and by running all channels PWM, heat shouldn't be a problem for the Aquaero 6.

Am I missing something, does this sound right?

Thanks for any help!


----------



## jvillaveces

I'm getting ready to give my rig its first major maintenance. I'm about to drain it, dismantle it, clean everything up, and get it ready for another year of service. Since I installed my Aquaero, 9 or 10 months ago, I have been bugged by the odd rpm readings I get from my fans. I just took a screenshot when I was about to post, and this is how they look all the time: no matter if they are full speed or not, they seem to fluctuate randomly. I have tried both voltage and power control in the past, with no impact on this. Now, since I'm fixing stuff, I'm wondering if I should change fans, change connections, or just chalk it up to a bug in the Aquaero or Aquasuite. FWIW, the fans are all Corsair, "top" are SP140, "front" are SP140 LED. Each rad is connected to a y splitter, and that to an AQ6 fan channel. 
"Back", which runs off the mobo, not the AQ6, is also an SP140 LED, but doesn't seem to fluctuate like its "front" brethren, Any ideas?


----------



## ShortBtwnHdset

Hi jvillaveces!

I'm no expert, but I had an thought. You say your back fan is run off motherboard, right? Wouldn't that mean that there is some polling interval for it, along with a transmission delay before aqueros gets it? Now run that thru your USB aquasuite, with yet another polling interval and processing delay, both the interval and delay from motherboard to aquasuite would have been cumulative, smoothing out your graph?

Just a thought!









By the way, forgive the terminology I use on the fly. Memory ain't what it used to be!


----------



## RDKing2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CookieSayWhat*
> 
> You can connect 4 pumps actually.
> 
> Well 4 MPS devices (Pumps, USB flow meter, etc.)


Yes and no. I forgot the aquabus D5's are just MPS devices. You can only connect 2 Aquastreams. I guess if you ran them on two small loops they would be okay. Still I would choose the D5's I just use voltage controlled D5's hooked up with PA's. Always leave them at full voltage. Had the PA's so i threw them in so I could monitor pumps.


----------



## ShortBtwnHdset

So, looking at Aquaero manual, you are likely using Open Hardware Monitor or AIDA64 to import those readings for back fan from motherboard. The other fans report directly to the Aquero, but OHM has to have a delay, as it has to be processed by OHM, sent thru USB buss, and finally processed by Aquero.

Doesn't OHM or AIDA have a GUI window with graphs as well? Look to see if any difference between it and your Aquaero graph. I imagine the OHM graph for back fan will look far more like your other fans in Aquero display.


----------



## jvillaveces

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ShortBtwnHdset*
> 
> So, looking at Aquaero manual, you are likely using Open Hardware Monitor or AIDA64 to import those readings for back fan from motherboard. The other fans report directly to the Aquero, but OHM has to have a delay, as it has to be processed by OHM, sent thru USB buss, and finally processed by Aquero.
> 
> Doesn't OHM or AIDA have a GUI window with graphs as well? Look to see if any difference between it and your Aquaero graph. I imagine the OHM graph for back fan will look far more like your other fans in Aquero display.


I use HWInfo64. AFAIK it has no graphs, only data. OTOH, you can change the polling frequency, and I have reduced it to .250 sec. So, you think the fans are all running just as smoothly (or just as jittery depending on your point of view), the only difference being the different measurment strategies between AQ6 and HWInfo?

EDIT: whenever people post Aquasuite screenshots on this forum I try to peek at their fan graphs, and I usually don't see the fluctuations apparent on mine, so I doubt the problem is with Aquasuite or Aquaero in general, it looks like something with my particular implementation. Corsair fans? Y extenders?


----------



## ShortBtwnHdset

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jvillaveces*
> 
> I use HWInfo64. AFAIK it has no graphs, only data. OTOH, you can change the polling frequency, and I have reduced it to .250 sec. So, you think the fans are all running just as smoothly (or just as jittery depending on your point of view), the only difference being the different measurment strategies between AQ6 and HWInfo?
> 
> EDIT: whenever people post Aquasuite screenshots on this forum I try to peek at their fan graphs, and I usually don't see the fluctuations apparent on mine, so I doubt the problem is with Aquasuite or Aquaero in general, it looks like something with my particular implementation. Corsair fans? Y extenders?


I haven't run Aquasuite, nor these monitoring/graphing apps yet, so I can only go by what I see from your image, and what I've seen in Speedfan on my comp. For me, speedfan shows just as much variance on fan speeds, once configured for graphing. That's why I think transmission delays and other cumulative effects are averaging out your rear fan actual speeds.

EDIT: currently, my pump and radiator fans are run thru a fan buss, and the rpm's run to motherboard fan headers. No software control, just monitoring thru Speedfan, and I see this much variance.


----------



## saintruski

Probably a super dumb question, seems to obvious but i want to be sure and prepare for the delivery. I bought the aquaero 6 XT, and own the EKWB d5 PWM. Theres no reason why it wouldn't work with this thing if i just connected the pump to the molex connector from my PSU for power like usual, then plugged the PWM cable from the pump into one of the 4 fan controller slots on the back of the aquaero 6 XT right? Or is this like a super locked down system where you need to buy into their ecosystem and own all their products, because i wasnt/am not really rich enough to buy a new pump right now. Will it still be read by the controller and software or at least one of them?


----------



## GTXJackBauer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *saintruski*
> 
> Probably a super dumb question, seems to obvious but i want to be sure and prepare for the delivery. I bought the aquaero 6 XT, and own the EKWB d5 PWM. Theres no reason why it wouldn't work with this thing if i just connected the pump to the molex connector from my PSU for power like usual, then plugged the PWM cable from the pump into one of the 4 fan controller slots on the back of the aquaero 6 XT right? Or is this like a super locked down system where you need to buy into their ecosystem and own all their products, because i wasnt/am not really rich enough to buy a new pump right now. Will it still be read by the controller and software or at least one of them?


It's not that its a lock down system as it works with many pumps but since Laing D5 PWM pumps weren't spec'd into the intel standard, either a "Diva Mod" needs to be done which is explained in this thread or a purchase of a AQ D5 PWM pump is the only way possible.


----------



## saintruski

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GTXJackBauer*
> 
> It's not that its a lock down system as it works with many pumps but since Laing D5 PWM pumps weren't spec'd into the intel standard, either a "Diva Mod" needs to be done which is explained in this thread or a purchase of a AQ D5 PWM pump is the only way possible.


thank you very much for pointing me in the direction of the diva mod, ill be checking it out. I bought it without ever looking into it because i got it at a price i couldnt turn down, so now i might have to be doing this mod or sit on it. Im really in no rush i guess.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *chimaychanga*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> The green and blue wires are the PWM and tach wire for the D5 connector.
> 
> That mod goes right on the D5's 4 pin connector that plugs onto the A6.
> 
> The easiest way to do it might actually be to make up a short extension cable with the mod on the extension cable's plug.
> 
> Google Zener Diode, and you'll see how they work so they can create a 5V source from the 12V that's present on the power pins of the A6 fan connectors.
> 
> Darlene
> 
> 
> 
> But why do you have 2 of each wire ?? and did you solder the diode and resistors on to the fan terminals?
> 
> EDIT:
> I see now.. you have 2 D5 pump cables underneath your sleeving
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> right ?
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Yes, that cable was made as a Y cable for a dual D5 setup, but could seem confusing with the extra wires.
> 
> The diode and large resistor are each soldered to a terminal.
> 
> Here's the easiest way to implement the mod, . . . . as a short, 2 wire extension for the PWM and tach signals
> :
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Darlene
> 
> Update:
> 
> Here's the little modded extension cable installed, note that the pullup resistor is a 3.3K, basically a workable compromise for either single or dual D5's, but really better suited to a single:
> 
> 
> 
> Here's the scope with only 1 of the D5's PWM line connected, notice that the pulse voltage is right about 3.4V max, and very near 0V min.
> 
> Ideally, the max should be right at 5V, but the D5's electronics load the circuit down some.
> 
> 
> 
> Now here's the scope with both D5's PWM line connected, notice it's now loaded down to about 2.5V.
> 
> The lower max pulse voltage can be accounted for with slightly higher percentage settings in Aquasuite.
> 
> 
> 
> Note also that max voltage for both single and dual setups does go up a little as the pulse width is increased.
> 
> What's really important in both cases, is that the pulse's "off time" voltage stays very close to 0V.
> 
> If the pullup resistor is lowered to 1k or so, the max voltage comes up very close to 5V, but the "off time" voltage climbs up closer to .8V or so, and then the pump doesn't see it as off time any more , and runs full speed with no regards to the pulse width.
> 
> That's why if you have a dual D5, use a 2.2K when you make your cable, and a 3.3K if you have a single D5.
> 
> Darlene
Click to expand...

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *chimaychanga*
> 
> Subbed § Can I join please
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A6 XT
> 
> Btw Darlene.. any solution yet to controlling the PWM D5 on A6 ? doh I didnt read your topic
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yes, . . . .
> 
> There's a really good way with an add-on PCB, but there's also a quick and easy way that yields acceptable results without having to run wires and plug into a 5V molex pin somewhere.
> 
> Here's copied from the "old" A6 thread with some additional information:
> 
> For the capable DIY'er . . .
> 
> While not as optimal a solution as the active component based solutions, this is a workable solution to the issue of having a PWM D5.
> 
> 
> 
> I've tried it on a single and a dual D5 setup and it works satisfactorily with pullups optimized for each case, and it's dead nuts simple, though not exactly elegant.
> 
> At issue is that the D5 needs a fairly "strong" pullup, (lower resistance) . . . while the A6 works best with weaker pullups, (higher resistance).
> 
> This setup uses the 12V available from the first 2 of the 4 PWM fan pins on each channel of the A6.
> 
> The Zener diode and larger resistor form a 5V regulated source that the smaller resistor connects the PWM line to.
> 
> The diode is a 5.1V Zener diode, and the larger resistor, the 1/2 W one, is a 560 Ohm, but 470, 680, 820, or 1K will work as well. 1K may be the easiest to find.
> 
> Be sure you have the Zener diode polarity connected as in the pic.
> 
> The smaller resistor, 1/4 W, is a 2.2K which I'd suggest for a dual D5 setup, but for a single D5, a 3.3K would be fine.
> 
> The smaller size, 1/6W or 1/8W are electrically OK, but the smaller physical size makes lead breakage more of an issue, so stay with 1/4W.
> 
> Everything shown is available from RadioShack.
> 
> Hope that helps,
> 
> Darlene
Click to expand...


----------



## Methodical

I need clarification about these controllers as I am about to hit the purchase button.

Can I control the pump and fans separately with this fan controller?

*What I want:*

I am building a system with 2x separate water loops - one for gpu and one for cpu. I want to independently control both loops separately from each other and further control the fans and pumps separately from each other. Am I asking too much of this fan controller? If it helps any, I am planning to purchase the Aquacomputer D5 Pumps with USB and Aquabus Interface.

*What I don't want:*

My current build is one loop with cpu and gpu with all 4 fans and pump connected to a swiftech pwm splitter and running based on the cpu temp. I do not want this for my new build. As I stated above, I want to independently run both loops and run the fans separate from the pump.

Thanks for any insight.


----------



## Jflisk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Methodical*
> 
> I need clarification about these controllers as I am about to hit the purchase button.
> 
> Can I control the pump and fans separately with this fan controller?
> 
> *What I want:*
> 
> I am building a system with 2x separate water loops - one for gpu and one for cpu. I want to independently control both loops separately from each other and further control the fans and pumps separately from each other. Am I asking too much of this fan controller? If it helps any, I am planning to purchase the Aquacomputer D5 Pumps with USB and Aquabus Interface.
> 
> *What I don't want:*
> 
> My current build is one loop with cpu and gpu with all 4 fans and pump connected to a swiftech pwm splitter and running based on the cpu temp. I do not want this for my new build. As I stated above, I want to independently run both loops and run the fans separate from the pump.
> 
> Thanks for any insight.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Methodical*
> 
> I need clarification about these controllers as I am about to hit the purchase button.
> 
> Can I control the pump and fans separately with this fan controller?
> 
> *What I want:*
> 
> I am building a system with 2x separate water loops - one for gpu and one for cpu. I want to independently control both loops separately from each other and further control the fans and pumps separately from each other. Am I asking too much of this fan controller? If it helps any, I am planning to purchase the Aquacomputer D5 Pumps with USB and Aquabus Interface.
> 
> *What I don't want:*
> 
> My current build is one loop with cpu and gpu with all 4 fans and pump connected to a swiftech pwm splitter and running based on the cpu temp. I do not want this for my new build. As I stated above, I want to independently run both loops and run the fans separate from the pump.
> 
> Thanks for any insight.


You may need one or two of these to extend (link below) the base model but yes. You can have independent control of fans on individual temperatures. This is one of the most advanced controller out their and worth every penny
http://shop.aquacomputer.de/product_info.php?products_id=3197

The controller works perfectly in most situations.


----------



## ShortBtwnHdset

Hi All!

I really need some experienced Aquero/watercooling advice. Doing a series loop, 3 rads, 1 cpu block and eventually 1 or 2 GPU blocks. Have the aquastream xt pump, but looking for a smaller pump for redundancy and extra pressure/flow once GPU loop added. Don't want to use another aquastream xt (expense and large mounting size). Can ya'll recommend another pump?

Less concerned with extra functions like the aquastream, and I realize there will be some flow adjustments needed to match pumps to a similar flow-rate.

How would you do this, or what would you do different? Have already bought the aquastream xt, so I'm already committed unless I scrap it. Space/compatability/and price are primary considerations.

With all the series flow resistance from all these series devices, I may have screwed up going the aquastream for pump.


----------



## GTXJackBauer

Yup, you shouldn't have problems doing what you want to do. It really is a one of a kind controller out there. Haven't seen anything come close to it. I personally think its worth it.


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ShortBtwnHdset*
> 
> Hi All!
> 
> I really need some experienced Aquero/watercooling advice. Doing a series loop, 3 rads, 1 cpu block and eventually 1 or 2 GPU blocks. Have the aquastream xt pump, but looking for a smaller pump for redundancy and extra pressure once GPU loop added. Dont want to use another aquastream xt (expense and large mounting size). Can ya'll recommend another pump?
> 
> Less concerned with extra functions like the aquastream, and I realize there will be some flow adjustments needed to match aquastream. How would you do this? Have already bought the aquastream xt, so I'm already partially committed.


You can add any sort of pump you like. A D5 vario would be a great choice because you can just set it to a quiet speed and use the Aquastream to adjust flow rate if you are interested in that ability.
There is no need to match anything, not that that is actually possible anyway. The D5 will just add to the overall pump pressure and/or lower the restriction that the aquastream has to deal with, and the result is higher flow rate. They can run at very different speeds with no problem at all.


----------



## ShortBtwnHdset

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> You can add any sort of pump you like. A D5 vario would be a great choice because you can just set it to a quiet speed and use the Aquastream to adjust flow rate if you are interested in that ability.
> There is no need to match anything, not that that is actually possible anyway. The D5 will just add to the overall pump pressure and/or lower the restriction that the aquastream has to deal with, and the result is higher flow rate. They can run at very different speeds with no problem at all.


Thanks for the response, Jakusonfire!

So If I got the little 600 pump,
http://shop.aquacomputer.de/product_info.php?products_id=2929
it would support the flow rate of the XT? Would it be better to get one from Aqua Comp with Aqueros functionality? I know everyone loves the D5 pumps, but I'm really trying to go smaller in size.


----------



## ShortBtwnHdset

What are space requirements for a d5? They look huge in terms of cubic inches, but I have no experience with one and that may be an illusion from the pics.


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ShortBtwnHdset*
> 
> Thanks for the response, Jakusonfire!
> 
> So If I got the little 600 pump,
> http://shop.aquacomputer.de/product_info.php?products_id=2929
> it would support the flow rate of the XT? Would it be better to get one from Aqua Comp with Aqueros functionality? I know everyone loves the D5 pumps, but I'm really trying to go smaller in size.


The 600 is a compact little pump but once you add the pump top its not really much smaller than a d5 and probably slightly bigger than a DDC. It will still work fine with the Aquastream but because its flow rate is significantly lower it will probably need to be running at around mid speed to add any pressure to the system.
For something really small a Jingway pump does not need any accessories to add it to the loop. http://www.performance-pcs.com/phobya-dc12-400-pwm-12volt-pump.html
Though I would always prefer a Laing. A DDC is as about as small as they come;
http://www.performance-pcs.com/alphacool-laing-ddc310-complete-edition-black-acetal.html
http://www.performance-pcs.com/ek-xtop-ddc-3-2-pwm-elite-acetal-incl-pump.html
Or the Swiftech thing;
http://www.swiftech.com/MCP50X.aspx

If you go to the trouble of adding a pump I figure it should be something that can contribute a significant power increase and the 600 isn't really that.
The Aquaero can work with just about any pump but if you mean actual built in compatibility then the list isn't long. Its Aquastream or D5.


----------



## ShortBtwnHdset

MCP50x may be the best solution in terms of size. Frozen CPU reviews seem to say better reliability than MCP35X types (without all the extra tops/heatsinks), but I don't know how much stock to put into that.

Wow, nice price on that DDC 310! That's a nice alternative! How reliable?


----------



## ShortBtwnHdset

Sorry, another question for ya. Can the aquasuite monitor amps in PWM mode (as in per channel)?


----------



## Mega Man

All ddcs are made by Lang
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Methodical*
> 
> I need clarification about these controllers as I am about to hit the purchase button.
> 
> Can I control the pump and fans separately with this fan controller?
> 
> *What I want:*
> 
> I am building a system with 2x separate water loops - one for gpu and one for cpu. I want to independently control both loops separately from each other and further control the fans and pumps separately from each other. Am I asking too much of this fan controller? If it helps any, I am planning to purchase the Aquacomputer D5 Pumps with USB and Aquabus Interface.
> 
> *What I don't want:*
> 
> My current build is one loop with cpu and gpu with all 4 fans and pump connected to a swiftech pwm splitter and running based on the cpu temp. I do not want this for my new build. As I stated above, I want to independently run both loops and run the fans separate from the pump.


Yes you easily can, assuming you want 2 pumps channels and 2 fan channels (total of 4)


----------



## RDKing2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Methodical*
> 
> I need clarification about these controllers as I am about to hit the purchase button.
> 
> Can I control the pump and fans separately with this fan controller?
> 
> *What I want:*
> 
> I am building a system with 2x separate water loops - one for gpu and one for cpu. I want to independently control both loops separately from each other and further control the fans and pumps separately from each other. Am I asking too much of this fan controller? If it helps any, I am planning to purchase the Aquacomputer D5 Pumps with USB and Aquabus Interface.
> 
> *What I don't want:*
> 
> My current build is one loop with cpu and gpu with all 4 fans and pump connected to a swiftech pwm splitter and running based on the cpu temp. I do not want this for my new build. As I stated above, I want to independently run both loops and run the fans separate from the pump.
> 
> Thanks for any insight.


One of the nice things about the Aquaero is that with the multiple temp sensors you can easily set up a virtual temp between the water and ambient. You can set up a fan curve based on the delta. It actually is the water that is being cooled not the components. I have a couple of different curves set up as profiles. An aggressive curve for benching, gaming etc. and a mild curve for everyday use to keep my rig as quiet as possible. A separate controller (curve, fixed, etc) can be set up for each device/output or the same controller can be used for multiple devices.
Connecting the pumps via USB or aquabus will leave all 4 of the fan outputs available.


----------



## ShortBtwnHdset

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RDKing2*
> 
> One of the nice things about the Aquaero is that with the multiple temp sensors you can easily set up a virtual temp between the water and ambient. You can set up a fan curve based on the delta. It actually is the water that is being cooled not the components. I have a couple of different curves set up as profiles. An aggressive curve for benching, gaming etc. and a mild curve for everyday use to keep my rig as quiet as possible. A separate controller (curve, fixed, etc) can be set up for each device/output or the same controller can be used for multiple devices.
> Connecting the pumps via USB or aquabus will leave all 4 of the fan outputs available.


Hey RDKing2!

Looking at differences in aquero manual, a big difference seems to be higher wattage per channel (voltage control) on AQ6, and AQ6 can be set up on 4 channels for either voltage control or PWM, plus 2 extra PWM only channels. AQ5 seems to be only voltage control on 4 channels, plus the 2 extra PWM channels. Am I reading that right?

I'm looking for 6 PWM channels.


----------



## saintruski

Edit: didnt mean to quote

Just got mine, must say not impressed with build quality. all the stamping for the wording is worn like it was used, thats aesthetic. however on the backside all the connectors look like they were poorly soldered on, all the soldering looked great expect one looked almost bridged...i had to sponge it up and fix it myself. but the seating looks shoddy if you look at pwm 1 and 2, fans 3 and 4, and the NC NO COM Relay area and flow areas.







Hopefully it makes up for it


----------



## apw63

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ShortBtwnHdset*
> 
> Hey RDKing2!
> 
> Looking at differences in aquero manual, a big difference seems to be higher wattage per channel (voltage control) on AQ6, and AQ6 can be set up on 4 channels for either voltage control or PWM, plus 2 extra PWM only channels. AQ5 seems to be only voltage control on 4 channels, plus the 2 extra PWM channels. Am I reading that right?
> 
> I'm looking for 6 PWM channels.


Your reading that wrong, AQ6 only 4 PWM fan channels, AQ5 only 1 PWM fan channel. the other 2 PWM channels are not for fan control


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ShortBtwnHdset*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *RDKing2*
> 
> One of the nice things about the Aquaero is that with the multiple temp sensors you can easily set up a virtual temp between the water and ambient. You can set up a fan curve based on the delta. It actually is the water that is being cooled not the components. I have a couple of different curves set up as profiles. An aggressive curve for benching, gaming etc. and a mild curve for everyday use to keep my rig as quiet as possible. A separate controller (curve, fixed, etc) can be set up for each device/output or the same controller can be used for multiple devices.
> Connecting the pumps via USB or aquabus will leave all 4 of the fan outputs available.
> 
> 
> 
> Hey RDKing2!
> 
> Looking at differences in aquero manual, a big difference seems to be higher wattage per channel (voltage control) on AQ6, and AQ6 can be set up on 4 channels for either voltage control or PWM, plus 2 extra PWM only channels. AQ5 seems to be only voltage control on 4 channels, plus the 2 extra PWM channels. Am I reading that right?
> 
> I'm looking for 6 PWM channels.
Click to expand...

The AQ6 has 4 channels that are individually configurable as either voltage or PWM control for fans and pumps.

The other 2 PWM chans are actually a pulsed 12V output for LEDs, so they can be dimmed via the PWM of the supplied 12V.

Those 2 PWM chans can not be used to control fans or pumps.

D.


----------



## ShortBtwnHdset

Ohhhhh! So I would have to get 2 poweradjusts, or run 2 pumps off of one (if possible). Dang, cost and complexity just went up...


----------



## saintruski

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *saintruski*
> 
> Edit: didnt mean to quote
> 
> Just got mine, must say not impressed with build quality. all the stamping for the wording is worn like it was used, thats aesthetic. however on the backside all the connectors look like they were poorly soldered on, all the soldering looked great expect one looked almost bridged...i had to sponge it up and fix it myself. but the seating looks shoddy if you look at pwm 1 and 2, fans 3 and 4, and the NC NO COM Relay area and flow areas.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hopefully it makes up for it


Just want to ask quickly, is http://www.aquatuning.us/ a trusted place to buy stuff or is this possibly why my product came why it did?


----------



## ShortBtwnHdset

Although, I could probably run 6 fans (2 rads to cool CPU) off of one channel. Should be well under the 30 watt max per channel. That would still leave me with 1 poweradjust to get.


----------



## apw63

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ShortBtwnHdset*
> 
> Ohhhhh! So I would have to get 2 poweradjusts, or run 2 pumps off of one (if possible). Dang, cost and complexity just went up...


I run both my swiftech mpc35x DCC on one channel via a PWM splitter. I have 8 noiseblocker 120mm fans on one channel no problem at all for AQ6. I have the fans for my 3 RADs all on the one channel, case fans (4) on one channel and pedestal exhaust fans (3) on the last. I don't know about 2 fans on one channel of the poweradjust.


----------



## Jetskyer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ShortBtwnHdset*
> 
> Although, I could probably run 6 fans (2 rads to cool CPU) off of one channel. Should be well under the 30 watt max per channel. That would still leave me with 1 poweradjust to get.


If you get the Aquabus D5's they don't use up a PWM header. You can just connect them through the aquabus to your Aquaero and then you're set!
Even if you have two separate loops, I doubt you would need more than 3 channels anyways (1 output per loop and the third for your case-fans)

There's one thing you should check with Shoggy though, I'm not sure if you can actually use a sensor input to evevn control aquabus D5's. If I'm not mistaken Shoggy told me a while back that it was not possible. Íf you want to control the pump-speed by a sensor value you probably need to put two PWM versions on a PWM header, since those for sure can be controlled by sensor input.

If my two D5 varios ever die, I probably will change them out for PWM versions myself.
I normally run my D5's at setting one (sub 2000rpm) and the temperature difference on the GPU is only 3 degrees between both at max, nor are my radiators more effective at higher pump-speeds.
Only thing really affected by the flow is my MIPS Iceforce, which gives a temperature drop of 8 degrees when both pumps are at setting 5.
Quite a lot and when using two PWM pumps I could either keep the deltaT over the loop constant or just use the temperature of the CPU to control the pumps.


----------



## ShortBtwnHdset

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jetskyer*
> 
> If you get the Aquabus D5's they don't use up a PWM header. You can just connect them through the aquabus to your Aquaero and then you're set!
> Even if you have two separate loops, I doubt you would need more than 3 channels anyways (1 output per loop and the third for your case-fans)
> 
> There's one thing you should check with Shoggy though, I'm not sure if you can actually use a sensor input to evevn control aquabus D5's. If I'm not mistaken Shoggy told me a while back that it was not possible. Íf you want to control the pump-speed by a sensor value you probably need to put two PWM versions on a PWM header, since those for sure can be controlled by sensor input.
> 
> If my two D5 varios ever die, I probably will change them out for PWM versions myself.
> I normally run my D5's at setting one (sub 2000rpm) and the temperature difference on the GPU is only 3 degrees between both at max, nor are my radiators more effective at higher pump-speeds.
> Only thing really affected by the flow is my MIPS Iceforce, which gives a temperature drop of 8 degrees when both pumps are at setting 5.
> Quite a lot and when using two PWM pumps I could either keep the deltaT over the loop constant or just use the temperature of the CPU to control the pumps.


I'm sorry, I'm a little confused. What's an Aquabus? Did you mean Poweradjust? Or is that a model of the D5 done by a particular manufacturer?

Ooooh, Duh! You mean a D5 with aquacomputer hardware/software.


----------



## Jetskyer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ShortBtwnHdset*
> 
> I'm sorry, I'm a little confused. What's an Aquabus? Did you mean Poweradjust? Or is that a model of the D5 done by a particular manufacturer?
> 
> Ooooh, Duh! You mean a D5 with aquacomputer hardware/software.


It's indeed a version of the D5 produced by aquacomputer. It's an aquabus/usb pump, very nice little pump.









PMW versions are not made by aquacpmputer if I'm not mistaken.

How exactly are you planning your setup? If you give us the details and your requirements then we'll be able to help you get the best solution


----------



## ShortBtwnHdset

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jetskyer*
> 
> It's indeed a version of the D5 produced by aquacomputer. It's an aquabus/usb pump, very nice little pump.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> PMW versions are not made by aquacpmputer if I'm not mistaken.
> 
> How exactly are you planning your setup? If you give us the details and your requirements then we'll be able to help you get the best solution


Ok, kind of crazy build. X79 on a budget, if you can use those terms in the same sentence. Have an old custom watercooled setup(AMD 955BE, I believe), but getting dated. Everything has changed so much that I won't be able to reuse any of it.

Asus Sabertooth motherboard (bought used from friend) along with his 4820K. 32Gig ram. Want overclocking, but not likely extreme with this motherboard.

Serial Loop - Aquabox pro single bay reservoir-->aquastream XT pump (no firmware upgrades)-->alphacool Monsta 240mm rad (used off e-bay $65)-->eventual GPU leg of circuit (have an aircooled GTX970, but waiting for Pascal)-->2nd pump to be purchased-->Alphacool 140mm 60mm thick rad (new)-->Alphacool 240mm 60mm thick (used off ebay $60.00)-->EK EVO CPU block to be purchased--> back to reservoir.

All rads are push/pull, Noctua industrial series fans. Case is a Fractal ARC XL. 240 MM Monsta rad front inlet, 140mm rad back outlet external, 240mm rad top outlet.

I've still have to purchase the AQ6. Last thing to mention is beside the top rad, mounting 4-60mm fans for VRM/RAM/Motherboard cooling, all on one channel or circuit.

So, I have 1 channel for front rad (4 fans), one channel for back and top rad (6 fans), one channel for XT pump, one channel for 60mm fans. There will be several motherboard connected fans for more inlet air, not likely monitored in AquaSuite. Problem is the second pump isn't going to be duplicate XT, because of size and cost constraints. Budget is a big consideration (taken me 4 months to get this far), so I have to get a component at a time.


----------



## RDKing2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ShortBtwnHdset*
> 
> Ohhhhh! So I would have to get 2 poweradjusts, or run 2 pumps off of one (if possible). Dang, cost and complexity just went up...


Can get a little confusing. It was already stated about the PWM channels so hopefully you got that. The pumps you listed are aquabus/USB versions. Someone went into that as well, they do not hook up to the PWM header. As said there are limited functions when hooked up via aquabus. I believe you might be only able to use a fixed value controller and have monitoring. Someone can correct me if wrong but if hooked up via USB you can use all functions with any controller. So each pump would hook up to power supply and need a USB header for full control. I think a lot here would agree that there is no real advantage to be gained in a loop by having the pump vary in speed while in use. So the aquabus connection should be fine for most. You can purchase Aquacomputer PWM D5 pumps as well. For separate control obviously each pump would need one of PWM header leaving you only two for fans. Another option is to get standard voltage controlled D5's and use fan headers or get a poweradjust for each pump. Lots of options.

As far as #of fans on each header. There is a video by Aquacomputer showing 20 fans each on two headers and a pump each on the other two. You can always use powered fan splitters on each header to take to fan load off of the Aquaero. I ended up using two of the Swiftech 8 fan splitters. One for my push/pull 560 and the other for two 280 rads.

IMO the XT pumps would only be okay in a very basic loop. I have one with very low hours. PM for a screamin deal. You are better off with the D5


----------



## ShortBtwnHdset

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RDKing2*
> 
> Can get a little confusing. It was already stated about the PWM channels so hopefully you got that. The pumps you listed are aquabus/USB versions. Someone went into that as well, they do not hook up to the PWM header. As said there are limited functions when hooked up via aquabus. I believe you might be only able to use a fixed value controller and have monitoring. Someone can correct me if wrong but if hooked up via USB you can use all functions with any controller. So each pump would hook up to power supply and need a USB header for full control. I think a lot here would agree that there is no real advantage to be gained in a loop by having the pump vary in speed while in use. So the aquabus connection should be fine for most. You can purchase Aquacomputer PWM D5 pumps as well. For separate control obviously each pump would need one of PWM header leaving you only two for fans. Another option is to get standard voltage controlled D5's and use fan headers or get a poweradjust for each pump. Lots of options.
> 
> As far as #of fans on each header. There is a video by Aquacomputer showing 20 fans each on two headers and a pump each on the other two. You can always use powered fan splitters on each header to take to fan load off of the Aquaero. I ended up using two of the Swiftech 8 fan splitters. One for my push/pull 560 and the other for two 280 rads.
> 
> IMO the XT pumps would only be okay in a very basic loop. I have one with very low hours. PM for a screamin deal. You are better off with the D5


Ok, so can I use more than 1 USB connection? Motherboard header to AQ6, motherboard header to XT? Have several USB 2.0 headers I could use off motherboard, and still connect 2 USB3.0 to case front (ARC XL only has 2)?

If that's the case, that frees up one more PWM channel.


----------



## RDKing2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ShortBtwnHdset*
> 
> Ok, so can I use more than 1 USB connection? Motherboard header to AQ6, motherboard header to XT? Have several USB 2.0 headers I could use off motherboard, and still connect 2 USB3.0 to case front (ARC XL only has 2)?
> 
> If that's the case, that frees up one more PWM channel.


Any of the devices that have Aquabus/USB can be hooked up either way. I believe certain devices are more limited with aquabus connection. I posted this before, aquastream pumps do not respond well to series (or parallel) use with any pump including another aquastream. The only benefit will be redundancy, flow increase will be next to nothing due to control software built into the pump.


----------



## ShortBtwnHdset

Funny thing is, I've looked thru PDF manuals for both the AQ6 and the XT several times, still was confused about PWM channels and how they hook up.DENSE!!!!


----------



## ShortBtwnHdset

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RDKing2*
> 
> Any of the devices that have Aquabus/USB can be hooked up either way. I believe certain devices are more limited with aquabus connection. I posted this before, aquastream pumps do not respond well to series (or parallel) use with any pump including another aquastream. The only benefit will be redundancy, flow increase will be next to nothing due to control software built into the pump.


Not really looking for flow increase, just redundancy and needed average flow. It looks like I'll have to use a 90 degree bend or two to fit it all.

Sigh... worst case scenario would be to scrap the XT, but means I have to buy two pumps instead of one, stalling build at least a couple of weeks. Reason that I'm planning GPU loop now is I'm at the stage of cutting/modding case. Don't want to have to disassemble entire computer to bare metal case just add GPU's in loop.


----------



## RDKing2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ShortBtwnHdset*
> 
> Funny thing is, I've looked thru PDF manuals for both the AQ6 and the XT several times, still was confused about PWM channels and how they hook up.DENSE!!!!


The Aquaero has a bit of a learning curve. But worth it in the end. I ended up with extra accessories because of it. Seriously, if you do not have the pump yet consider something else other than the XT. Or at least take mine for half. A basic loop will not even get 1 GPM with the XT.


----------



## ShortBtwnHdset

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RDKing2*
> 
> The Aquaero has a bit of a learning curve. But worth it in the end. I ended up with extra accessories because of it. Seriously, if you do not have the pump yet consider something else other than the XT. Or at least take mine for half. A basic loop will not even get 1 GPM with the XT.


I doubt I could fit dual XT's, already have bought 1 of them (could take a loss on ebay, I guess). Put's me off a further month from finishing this computer, though (have to buy pumps one at a time, hell, haven't bought the AQ nor the CPU block yet).

I really had no idea how expensive this could be!!!


----------



## Chunky_Chimp

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RDKing2*
> 
> Any of the devices that have Aquabus/USB can be hooked up either way. I believe certain devices are more limited with aquabus connection. I posted this before, aquastream pumps do not respond well to series (or parallel) use with any pump including another aquastream. The only benefit will be redundancy, flow increase will be next to nothing due to control software built into the pump.


If I remember properly you need to connect each Aquacomputer device via USB, THEN set them up in the Aquasuite, then you can control/chain them via the Aquabus.


----------



## RDKing2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ShortBtwnHdset*
> 
> I doubt I could fit dual XT's, already have bought 1 of them (could take a loss on ebay, I guess). Put's me off a further month from finishing this computer, though (have to buy pumps one at a time, hell, haven't bought the AQ nor the CPU block yet).
> 
> I really had no idea how expensive this could be!!!


No worries. The pump will work okay for you. Might want to look into adding a flow meter to add to the cost







Wish I could help you out. I have an Alphacool block still mounted on my delidded 3770k not sure if it is compatible for you. I can check. Don't bother with the additional pump unless you are running two separate loops (are you?). The XT rpm is regulated by pressure. If it see's less pressure like adding a second pump it can slow down.
What chunky chimp is referring to is that if you are going to have two or more of the same device connected on the aquabus, one of the additional devices must be connected by itself first by USB to change the address. If they are to stay on USB all is good.


----------



## ShortBtwnHdset

Weird, I had no idea it was self regulating. Wonder if there is a way to fool it into thinking higher pressure, and speeding up?Better yet, I could volt mod it!!!









Socket 2011 for the CPU, but I don't want to jury rig anything.

Single series loop, man, I need to do some thinkin...

Have a great night!


----------



## Jetskyer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ShortBtwnHdset*
> 
> Weird, I had no idea it was self regulating. Wonder if there is a way to fool it into thinking higher pressure, and speeding up?Better yet, I could volt mod it!!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Socket 2011 for the CPU, but I don't want to jury rig anything.
> 
> Single series loop, man, I need to do some thinkin...
> 
> Have a great night!


If you're really on a tight budget you might just build in the 'redundancy' by adding a flow meter. Then you can just shut off your PC when the pump dies. Probably better would be a single D5, those pumps are awesome.
Also look into the option of the Aquaero 5 LT, saves you quite a bit of cash. Unless of course you really want the fancyness of the display.

By the way, when you mentioned your rads, you said you were planning on one rad as intake and two as outtake.
However, especially with a monsta as intake, the rads you have as outtake will barely contribute to the performance since they breathe out air that is as hot as the water.
Better would be to ditch the rear radiator, put a fan there as outtake and throw both radiators as intake.

You might want to make your own thread btw, we're derailing this thread quite a bit now


----------



## Mega Man

Umm... that's what this thread is for. .. and the 5 has several disadvantages that count it out, it sounds like only has 1 pwm channel all his fans are pwm and the 5


----------



## ShortBtwnHdset

Thanks for the responses, gang!

Any of ya'll have extensive experience with PowerAdjust 3? With the extra heatsink, how close to that 36 watt limit can I get, voltage control mode. Specifically concerned with pump start up current.

My thinking is this...scrap XT pump for the build, get the Koolance PMP-500 pump.I think If I'm using all/near-all channels on the AQ6, load would be to high at pump start up, so use separate PA3 for that pump. Disadvantage would be having to sell the XT pump (probably take a loss), extra expense of PA3 + HS, & no pump redundancy. Advantages would be single pump mounting, high head pressure, and 4 pwm channels + 1 voltage control channel.

I have already thought about fans/rads (inlet vs outlet sq mm), but that's for another thread. Quick breakdown , though, is this:

Inlet 2X120(rad)+1X140+1X200=88400 sq mm
Outlet 2X120(rad)+1X140(rad)+4X60=62800 sq mm

the 140 and 200 mm inlet fans are to mix cool air back into airstream after the 240 Monsta rad.

Yeah, overly complicated!!!


----------



## Jetskyer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> Umm... that's what this thread is for. .. and the 5 has several disadvantages that count it out, it sounds like only has 1 pwm channel all his fans are pwm and the 5


Yea, true. Missed the thing about his fans being PWM, that definitely rules the 5 LT out yea


----------



## ShortBtwnHdset

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jetskyer*
> 
> Yea, true. Missed the thing about his fans being PWM, that definitely rules the 5 LT out yea


Hey, no probems! Just trying to work out what I need to get to best utilize the functionality of Aquasuite. I will make a seperate build thread once I'm closer to having everything. I've already spent $300+ on fans alone!


----------



## Methodical

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jflisk*
> 
> You may need one or two of these to extend (link below) the base model but yes. You can have independent control of fans on individual temperatures. This is one of the most advanced controller out their and worth every penny
> http://shop.aquacomputer.de/product_info.php?products_id=3197
> 
> The controller works perfectly in most situations.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> All ddcs are made by Lang
> Yes you easily can, assuming you want 2 pumps channels and 2 fan channels (total of 4)


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RDKing2*
> 
> One of the nice things about the Aquaero is that with the multiple temp sensors you can easily set up a virtual temp between the water and ambient. You can set up a fan curve based on the delta. It actually is the water that is being cooled not the components. I have a couple of different curves set up as profiles. An aggressive curve for benching, gaming etc. and a mild curve for everyday use to keep my rig as quiet as possible. A separate controller (curve, fixed, etc) can be set up for each device/output or the same controller can be used for multiple devices.
> Connecting the pumps via USB or aquabus will leave all 4 of the fan outputs available.


Thanks for the input. I have something to think about.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ShortBtwnHdset*
> 
> Thanks for the responses, gang!
> 
> Any of ya'll have extensive experience with PowerAdjust 3? With the extra heatsink, how close to that 36 watt limit can I get, voltage control mode. Specifically concerned with pump start up current.
> 
> My thinking is this...scrap XT pump for the build, get the Koolance PMP-500 pump.I think If I'm using all/near-all channels on the AQ6, load would be to high at pump start up, so use separate PA3 for that pump. Disadvantage would be having to sell the XT pump (probably take a loss), extra expense of PA3 + HS, & no pump redundancy. Advantages would be single pump mounting, high head pressure, and 4 pwm channels + 1 voltage control channel.
> 
> I have already thought about fans/rads (inlet vs outlet sq mm), but that's for another thread. Quick breakdown , though, is this:
> 
> Inlet 2X120(rad)+1X140+1X200=88400 sq mm
> Outlet 2X120(rad)+1X140(rad)+4X60=62800 sq mm
> 
> the 140 and 200 mm inlet fans are to mix cool air back into airstream after the 240 Monsta rad.
> 
> Yeah, overly complicated!!!


I would recommend getting one of the 2 main pumps ddc or d5


----------



## ShortBtwnHdset

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> I would recommend getting one of the 2 main pumps ddc or d5


Hi Mega!

From what RDKing2 was saying, XT pump doesn't play well with other pumps in series or parallel, so if it's a choice between scrapping XT and buying one pump or two, I'd rather buy one. D5 looks to be a great pump, lots of testimonials, but gets pricey, especially if considering two. I might be able to use just 1, at least in interim.


----------



## seross69

One D5 will be enough for your loop. if I remember right it is just 2 rads, cpu and maybe gpu. a single D5 can handle this for sure.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ShortBtwnHdset*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> I would recommend getting one of the 2 main pumps ddc or d5
> 
> 
> 
> Hi Mega!
> 
> From what RDKing2 was saying, XT pump doesn't play well with other pumps in series or parallel, so if it's a choice between scrapping XT and buying one pump or two, I'd rather buy one. D5 looks to be a great pump, lots of testimonials, but gets pricey, especially if considering two. I might be able to use just 1, at least in interim.
Click to expand...

not what i ment

i would recommend getting one of the 2 main pumps either a DDC or D5- NOT a koolance pmp-500

there are a few other good pumps, but going from memory pmp-500 isnt one of them

that is not saying that is is a bad pump, but i am _NOT_ saying it is a _GOOD_ pump either


----------



## ShortBtwnHdset

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> not what i ment
> 
> i would recommend getting one of the 2 main pumps either a DDC or D5- NOT a koolance pmp-500
> 
> there are a few other good pumps, but going from memory pmp-500 isnt one of them
> 
> that is not saying that is is a bad pump, but i am _NOT_ saying it is a _GOOD_ pump either


Hmmm..., review I read was great, and he directly compared to a D5 and a DDC.

https://martinsliquidlab.wordpress.com/2012/12/13/koolance-pmp-500-pump/

Ahhh, I don't know. In any case will need at least 1 new pump.

Edit: Sorry, he compared to Koolance equivalent, PMP-450.


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> not what i ment
> 
> i would recommend getting one of the 2 main pumps either a DDC or D5- NOT a koolance pmp-500
> 
> there are a few other good pumps, but going from memory pmp-500 isnt one of them
> 
> that is not saying that is is a bad pump, but i am _NOT_ saying it is a _GOOD_ pump either


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ShortBtwnHdset*
> 
> Hmmm..., review I read was great, and he directly compared to a D5 and a DDC.
> 
> https://martinsliquidlab.wordpress.com/2012/12/13/koolance-pmp-500-pump/
> 
> Ahhh, I don't know. In any case will need at least 1 new pump.


pmp-500 is a good strong pump but is loud... for what you are doing I think 1 Pump a D5 would be fine..


----------



## RDKing2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ShortBtwnHdset*
> 
> Thanks for the responses, gang!
> 
> Any of ya'll have extensive experience with PowerAdjust 3? With the extra heatsink, how close to that 36 watt limit can I get, voltage control mode. Specifically concerned with pump start up current.
> 
> My thinking is this...scrap XT pump for the build, get the Koolance PMP-500 pump.I think If I'm using all/near-all channels on the AQ6, load would be to high at pump start up, so use separate PA3 for that pump. Disadvantage would be having to sell the XT pump (probably take a loss), extra expense of PA3 + HS, & no pump redundancy. Advantages would be single pump mounting, high head pressure, and 4 pwm channels + 1 voltage control channel.
> 
> I have already thought about fans/rads (inlet vs outlet sq mm), but that's for another thread. Quick breakdown , though, is this:
> 
> Inlet 2X120(rad)+1X140+1X200=88400 sq mm
> Outlet 2X120(rad)+1X140(rad)+4X60=62800 sq mm
> 
> the 140 and 200 mm inlet fans are to mix cool air back into airstream after the 240 Monsta rad.
> 
> Yeah, overly complicated!!!


What seross69 and mega man said. I would just get one of these http://www.performance-pcs.com/aquacomputer-d5-pump-mechanics-with-usb-and-aquabus-interface.html#Additional-Information with the pump top of your choice. Will leave all your fan headers free and can still be used stand alone with the Aquasuite software if you do not use the Aquaero.
Frozen used to have this pump with the high flow Alphacool top. Do not recommend using them though.


----------



## ShortBtwnHdset

Ok, got it. Your saying get the Aqua version of the D5.Connect thru Aquabuss to Aqueros or thru USB, Aquasuite should allow for control of pump.

OK, I'll bite, whats a decent top without getting into heavy money?


----------



## NeeqOne

Hi all, I will like to know if the Aquaero will work with either the XSPC G1/4in. Plug with 10k Sensor or the Bitspower G 1/4in. Shining Silver Temperature Sensor Stop Fitting. Thanks


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ShortBtwnHdset*
> 
> Ok, got it. Your saying get the Aqua version of the D5.Connect thru Aquabuss to Aqueros or thru USB, Aquasuite should allow for control of pump.
> 
> OK, I'll bite, whats a decent top without getting into heavy money?


I don't do D5's sorry I don't know
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NeeqOne*
> 
> Hi all, I will like to know if the Aquaero will work with either the XSPC G1/4in. Plug with 10k Sensor or the Bitspower G 1/4in. Shining Silver Temperature Sensor Stop Fitting. Thanks


Yes they will


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NeeqOne*
> 
> Hi all, I will like to know if the Aquaero will work with either the XSPC G1/4in. Plug with 10k Sensor or the Bitspower G 1/4in. Shining Silver Temperature Sensor Stop Fitting. Thanks


you need to ask shoggy about this as their is something a little differant about the sensors the AQ uses I know the monsoon and Phobya units will work but I am not sure about those 2.


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ShortBtwnHdset*
> 
> Ok, got it. Your saying get the Aqua version of the D5.Connect thru Aquabuss to Aqueros or thru USB, Aquasuite should allow for control of pump.
> 
> OK, I'll bite, whats a decent top without getting into heavy money?


not really a large difference in them find one that fits your wallet and you like the way it looks.


----------



## NeeqOne

Thanks for the info.


----------



## RDKing2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ShortBtwnHdset*
> 
> Ok, got it. Your saying get the Aqua version of the D5.Connect thru Aquabuss to Aqueros or thru USB, Aquasuite should allow for control of pump.
> 
> OK, I'll bite, whats a decent top without getting into heavy money?


I use the clear version of this top on my two D5's http://www.performance-pcs.com/alphacool-hf-d5-top-black-acetal-g1-4-vpp655-tpp644-mcp655-v-2.html For me- this or the EK Both of these tops outperformed a standard Laing pump top in a test I read.
I used a separate res inline with an in/out. Many mount a res right on the side inlet with the pump motor facing down. With the inlet and discharge lines hooked to the top. IMO bleeding is harder because the air tends to go through the pump and not get caught in the res.


----------



## Methodical

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *saintruski*
> 
> Edit: didnt mean to quote
> 
> Just got mine, must say not impressed with build quality. all the stamping for the wording is worn like it was used, thats aesthetic. however on the backside all the connectors look like they were poorly soldered on, all the soldering looked great expect one looked almost bridged...i had to sponge it up and fix it myself. but the seating looks shoddy if you look at pwm 1 and 2, fans 3 and 4, and the NC NO COM Relay area and flow areas.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hopefully it makes up for it


Seems this issue has gotten glossed over. Can Shoggy or anyone address this?

Thanks


----------



## Cozmo85

On my A6 the aluminum front panel was in really rough shape as well. The black replacement i ordered at the same time was perfect. Maybe I should contact them about a replacement silver panel.


----------



## DerComissar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Methodical*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *saintruski*
> 
> Edit: didnt mean to quote
> 
> Just got mine, must say not impressed with build quality. all the stamping for the wording is worn like it was used, thats aesthetic. however on the backside all the connectors look like they were poorly soldered on, all the soldering looked great expect one looked almost bridged...i had to sponge it up and fix it myself. but the seating looks shoddy if you look at pwm 1 and 2, fans 3 and 4, and the NC NO COM Relay area and flow areas.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hopefully it makes up for it
> 
> 
> 
> Seems this issue has gotten glossed over. Can Shoggy or anyone address this?
> 
> Thanks
Click to expand...

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cozmo85*
> 
> On my A6 the aluminum front panel was in really rough shape as well. The black replacement i ordered at the same time was perfect. Maybe I should contact them about a replacement silver panel.


This is getting ridiculous, does Aquacomputer have any kind of quality control standards?
The propaganda from Shoggy over the past few years hasn't rectified anything yet either.
Still non-conforming mounts, faceplates poorly glued on, and this nonsense.

Yeah, every company has the odd issue, but for a controller this expensive, and not a high-volume item, there is no excuse.

Do I still want to buy one? Of course.
But seeing these issues is keeping me from doing so.


----------



## saintruski

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DerComissar*
> 
> This is getting ridiculous, does Aquacomputer have any kind of quality control standards?
> The propaganda from Shoggy over the past few years hasn't rectified anything yet either.
> Still non-conforming mounts, faceplates poorly glued on, and this nonsense.
> 
> Yeah, every company has the odd issue, but for a controller this expensive, and not a high-volume item, there is no excuse.
> 
> Do I still want to buy one? Of course.
> But seeing these issues is keeping me from doing so.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Methodical*
> 
> Seems this issue has gotten glossed over. Can Shoggy or anyone address this?
> 
> Thanks


Ive been in contact with aquatuning (place of purchase) for the last couple of days about my issues, my last contact was this morning. They contacted aquacomputer, they say the seating was all case by case basis. the translation was hard, my guess is they are saying every one is not going to be perfect im guessing they are not soldered in an automated factory line and done by hand or something so they assured me the product was fine (obvious just the build quality was meh, if you have guys hand soldering it you would think they have them using template block/frames to have them soldering it on there as straight as possible every time) . The worn stamping, scratched metal, scratched screen they had no explanation how it happened, again my guess everything is totally done by hand and someone had an off day on my unit, they are sending me a new face plate. as far as the bridged connection went I am fairly good at soldering and already fixed it and there was nothing they could do about that anyways no that its fixed.

All in all good customer service from Aquatuning and Aquacomputer, and someone must have had a bad day there at the manufacturing plant by my estimation.

Edit: they said aquacomputer is sending me a new face plate ill guess i update when i get it...if i get it "You get the replacments in the following days." no tracking, fingers crossed.


----------



## Cozmo85

Other than that mine has been perfect. The screen was perfect as well.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Methodical*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *saintruski*
> 
> Edit: didnt mean to quote
> 
> Just got mine, must say not impressed with build quality. all the stamping for the wording is worn like it was used, thats aesthetic. however on the backside all the connectors look like they were poorly soldered on, all the soldering looked great expect one looked almost bridged...i had to sponge it up and fix it myself. but the seating looks shoddy if you look at pwm 1 and 2, fans 3 and 4, and the NC NO COM Relay area and flow areas.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hopefully it makes up for it
> 
> 
> 
> Seems this issue has gotten glossed over. Can Shoggy or anyone address this?
> 
> Thanks
Click to expand...

I'll agree with the paint on the front being an issue, as far as I am concerned the stuff sitting at an angle may look more professional if it were straight, but imo a non issue as it does not affect anything, as to the solder, you don't have any pics for me to comment on


----------



## Cozmo85

I just got my D5 with aquabus and it came with a 3 pin cable and a usb cable. I also have an aquaero 6. Do i need the 3 pin plugged into High and the usb cable hooked up? I thought I only needed the 3 pin. Or do i have to buy a 4 pin cable?


----------



## Mega Man

you dont need a 4 pin, 4th pin just supplies voltage which the pump gets from the fat 4pin connection to the psu


----------



## Cozmo85

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> you dont need a 4 pin, 4th pin just supplies voltage which the pump gets from the fat 4pin connection to the psu


I figured it out. When i first connected it via usb to set it up. i never clicked the floppy disk icon to save it to the device so it was still looking for usb control.


----------



## Willius

Just ordered a AQ 6 XT. I want to connect 2 DDC pumps to it, each on a separate channel. An EK 3.2 DDC and an EK 3.1 DDC.
Now I read somewhere that I can supply the pumps with voltage through the AQ 6 instead of molex. More so to reduce cable clutter.
I also will be installing the passive heat sink to be save.
I can't find any information anywhere on how to do this mod.

Also, the other 2 fan channels will be hooked up to 2 modmytoys PWM PCB splitters each with 4 EK Vardars 120 ER. Now I know I need to get rid of the RPM signal of 3 fans on the splitter.
Would this be as easy as just cutting the pins for the RPM signal off of 3 out of 4 fan connectors on the PCB.

Any help would be much appreciated


----------



## apw63

Fitting the Aquaero 6 XT with Aquacomputer Passive Cooler. http://forums.bit-tech.net/showthread.php?t=280849

I run both of my ddc pumps off one header with out issue.

Yes you can remove 1 pin from 3 of the headers or see if the splitter has those leads defeated


----------



## ShortBtwnHdset

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RDKing2*
> 
> I use the clear version of this top on my two D5's http://www.performance-pcs.com/alphacool-hf-d5-top-black-acetal-g1-4-vpp655-tpp644-mcp655-v-2.html For me- this or the EK Both of these tops outperformed a standard Laing pump top in a test I read.
> I used a separate res inline with an in/out. Many mount a res right on the side inlet with the pump motor facing down. With the inlet and discharge lines hooked to the top. IMO bleeding is harder because the air tends to go through the pump and not get caught in the res.


Thanks for the recommendations, gang! Will order today.

As to the front faceplate print, it's sounding like saintruski getting it resolved thru both vendor and maufacturer. However, as Cosmo chimed in, this may not be an isolated issue. I guess when I get mine I'll have to inspect and, if needed, get support immediately. I do wish they had an option for buying AQ w/black faceplate, and not an extra charge for a worthless silver one that will be scrapped. Same goes for the reservoir.


----------



## Willius

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *apw63*
> 
> Fitting the Aquaero 6 XT with Aquacomputer Passive Cooler. http://forums.bit-tech.net/showthread.php?t=280849
> 
> I run both of my ddc pumps off one header with out issue.
> 
> Yes you can remove 1 pin from 3 of the headers or see if the splitter has those leads defeated


I actually meant powering the DDC's through the aquaero. So without extra Molex from the pump straight to the PSU.


----------



## Cyber Locc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Willius*
> 
> I actually meant powering the DDC's through the aquaero. So without extra Molex from the pump straight to the PSU.


I would advise against that. A DDC uses 21ws of power so each would needs its own channel. Also not sure how well the wires would hold up to that kind of load, It has a molex connector for a reason. If it was a good idea to run DDCs in that way I would think they would have a version made in that way.


----------



## apw63

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cyber Locc*
> 
> I would advise against that. A DDC uses 21ws of power so each would needs its own channel. Also not sure how well the wires would hold up to that kind of load, It has a molex connector for a reason. If it was a good idea to run DDCs in that way I would think they would have a version made in that way.


I have run the pumps completely from a single channel and now 2 on one channel via a splitter. I rewired the pumps to 4 pin PWM fan connectors. I will get the power usage, temp of fan header tonight after work. My pumps only run between 47-58% power. I only try to maintain 1 gal,min flow. By memory typical temp of the fan channel reported by the QA6 below 30c. The QA can handle the pumps with out a issue.


----------



## ShortBtwnHdset

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Willius*
> 
> Just ordered a AQ 6 XT. I want to connect 2 DDC pumps to it, each on a separate channel. An EK 3.2 DDC and an EK 3.1 DDC.
> Now I read somewhere that I can supply the pumps with voltage through the AQ 6 instead of molex. More so to reduce cable clutter.
> I also will be installing the passive heat sink to be save.
> I can't find any information anywhere on how to do this mod.
> 
> Also, the other 2 fan channels will be hooked up to 2 modmytoys PWM PCB splitters each with 4 EK Vardars 120 ER. Now I know I need to get rid of the RPM signal of 3 fans on the splitter.
> Would this be as easy as just cutting the pins for the RPM signal off of 3 out of 4 fan connectors on the PCB.
> 
> Any help would be much appreciated


If I understand you right, of the 4 channels on the AQ, 1 channel each for pumps, 2 channels for fan groups - each fan group connected to a PWM splitter. I think these are the splitters your talking about. http://www.modmytoys.com/pcb.html Description is too vague for me to know, but all outputs to fans seem to be 3 pin. Aren't standard 3 pin fan connections + , -, and RPM? Sounds like you might have to change pin-outs on fan plugs, but I'm sure you can figure it out.

You shouldn't need extra power to the splitter from molex or Sata, each fan group should uses less than 10 watts (by the EK specs). General specs on the EK pumps seem to be around 18 watts, round up to 20 for good measure. Sounds like your in Spec for channel limits and thermal protection for the AQ6, especially with HS installed. Hope others pipe in, but sounds like your good to go.









Edit: APW's got direct experience with this. Look at rig in his sig, I'd trust that!


----------



## Cyber Locc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *apw63*
> 
> I have run the pumps completely from a single channel and now 2 on one channel via a splitter. I rewired the pumps to 4 pin PWM fan connectors. I will get the power usage, temp of fan header tonight after work. My pumps only run between 47-58% power. I only try to maintain 1 gal,min flow. By memory typical temp of the fan channel reported by the QA6 below 30c. The QA can handle the pumps with out a issue.


Well each at 50% is only 20ws ish together however both full speed I am not sure about that, the AQ6 can do 30ws per channel right? well that would be 40ws.


----------



## ShortBtwnHdset

I forgot to ask, do pumps work better on PWM power? Or is it better to have voltage control?


----------



## Willius

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ShortBtwnHdset*
> 
> If I understand you right, of the 4 channels on the AQ, 1 channel each for pumps, 2 channels for fan groups - each fan group connected to a PWM splitter. I think these are the splitters your talking about. http://www.modmytoys.com/pcb.html Description is too vague for me to know, but all outputs to fans seem to be 3 pin. Aren't standard 3 pin fan connections + , -, and RPM? Sounds like you might have to change pin-outs on fan plugs, but I'm sure you can figure it out.
> 
> You shouldn't need extra power to the splitter from molex or Sata, each fan group should uses less than 10 watts (by the EK specs). General specs on the EK pumps seem to be around 18 watts, round up to 20 for good measure. Sounds like your in Spec for channel limits and thermal protection for the AQ6, especially with HS installed. Hope others pipe in, but sounds like your good to go.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Edit: APW's got direct experience with this. Look at rig in his sig, I'd trust that!


i got these:

http://www.highflow.nl/fans/fans-ventilator-toebehoren/modmytoys-4-pin-pwm-power-distribution-pcb-4x-way-block-mmt-pcb-4p-44p.html?sl=EN

@apw63 Is the mod you did to your DDC's in your buildlog?


----------



## Willius

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cyber Locc*
> 
> Well each at 50% is only 20ws ish together however both full speed I am not sure about that, the AQ6 can do 30ws per channel right? well that would be 40ws.


I'm certainly running both the pumps on each their own fan header. More control









Now to figure out how i get 2 pumps cranked in my Mercury S3 main chamber


----------



## Cyber Locc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Willius*
> 
> i got these:
> 
> http://www.highflow.nl/fans/fans-ventilator-toebehoren/modmytoys-4-pin-pwm-power-distribution-pcb-4x-way-block-mmt-pcb-4p-44p.html?sl=EN
> 
> @apw63 Is the mod you did to your DDC's in your buildlog?


To do what you are wanting you simply need to get fan connector pins and a crimper. Take the 12v and the Ground from the molex and wire them to the Fan pins, and pop them in there respective places.


----------



## Willius

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cyber Locc*
> 
> To do what you are wanting you simply need to get fan connector pins and a crimper. Take the 12v and the Ground from the molex and wire them to the Fan pins, and pop them in there respective places.


Awesome! +Rep


----------



## apw63

This is a guide I made for another forum. (Crimping guide) How to make a PWM fan splitter. http://forums.extremeoverclocking.com/showthread.php?t=360468


----------



## ShortBtwnHdset

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Willius*
> 
> i got these:
> 
> http://www.highflow.nl/fans/fans-ventilator-toebehoren/modmytoys-4-pin-pwm-power-distribution-pcb-4x-way-block-mmt-pcb-4p-44p.html?sl=EN
> 
> @apw63 Is the mod you did to your DDC's in your buildlog?


Ha...looks like ModMyToys needs to update their website! FrozenCPU reviews of those splitters seem to suggest some are hit or miss, in terms of RPM's being reported. Worst case scenario, pop RPM pin out of a fan plug and run wire straight to AQ6 fan channel.


----------



## Cyber Locc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ShortBtwnHdset*
> 
> Ha...looks like ModMyToys needs to update their website! FrozenCPU reviews of those splitters seem to suggest some are hit or miss, in terms of RPM's being reported. Worst case scenario, pop RPM pin out of a fan plug and run wire straight to AQ6 fan channel.


They are honestly hit or miss whether they even work at all, I had some of them before and they stopped working with in a month. Mine were also just molex to 3 pin no adjustments. MMTs stuff really isnt very good honestly.


----------



## ShortBtwnHdset

Off topic, it's funny how many ppl here I recognize by their avatars from ExtremeSystems!


----------



## RDKing2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ShortBtwnHdset*
> 
> Ha...looks like ModMyToys needs to update their website! FrozenCPU reviews of those splitters seem to suggest some are hit or miss, in terms of RPM's being reported. Worst case scenario, pop RPM pin out of a fan plug and run wire straight to AQ6 fan channel.


The problem with the MMT splitter is that all 4 off the rpm pins are connected. Need to pull off bottom and sever three of the traces or simply snip the rpm pin on three of the fan ports. Bonus with these is that they can be used for a 4 pin aquabus distribution block.


----------



## apw63

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Willius*
> 
> I actually meant powering the DDC's through the aquaero. So without extra Molex from the pump straight to the PSU.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cyber Locc*
> 
> Well each at 50% is only 20ws ish together however both full speed I am not sure about that, the AQ6 can do 30ws per channel right? well that would be 40ws.


Here is a screen shot of both my pumps running 100% on one header. Both pumps powered from the AQ6. The pumps peaked at 28.9 W and temp peaked at 35c. I would say there is no problem running 2 DDC pumps off one header. I have the passive heat sink on the AQ6.


----------



## Cyber Locc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *apw63*
> 
> Here is a screen shot of both my pumps running 100% on one header. Both pumps powered from the AQ6. The pumps peaked at 28.9 W and temp peaked at 35c. I would say there is no problem running 2 DDC pumps off one header. I have the passive heat sink on the AQ6.


Not sure exactly how that is working out, as those pumps have been tested and proven by martin and others many times over to use 21 watts each. Also how are you measuring your temps? I assume you have sinks on those mcp35xs, because without one they hit in the 70s with ease.

Here is martins test, however I have seen others with better MMs like Flukes and they seen 19.5-20, sorry that Aquaero is wrong, 14ws is no where near, Your Aquaero is also reading the input at 11v not 12 for some reason, however the amperage calculation would still yield, 17ish.


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ShortBtwnHdset*
> 
> I forgot to ask, do pumps work better on PWM power? Or is it better to have voltage control?


Better to set pumps and forget them the pumps speeding up and down make a lot more noise than high speed fans.. IMHO

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cyber Locc*
> 
> Not sure exactly how that is working out, as those pumps have been tested and proven by martin and others many times over to use 21 watts each. Also how are you measuring your temps? I assume you have sinks on those mcp35xs, because without one they hit in the 70s with ease.


Those these by Martin were done how long ago?? And it is possible to build motors more efficient.. Martin is a great source of information and I do have a lot of respect for him but a lot of the reviews you find of his are very old


----------



## apw63

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cyber Locc*
> 
> Not sure exactly how that is working out, as those pumps have been tested and proven by martin and others many times over to use 21 watts each. Also how are you measuring your temps? I assume you have sinks on those mcp35xs, because without one they hit in the 70s with ease.


The temps are not the pumps. The temp is the QA6 fan header amplifier temp. Are you sure the 21 watts is continuous output or start up oitput. Running wattage maybe considerably less, I'm not 100% sure about running wattage, but 28.9 is what AQ6 is reporting.


----------



## Cyber Locc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> Better to set pumps and forget them the pumps speeding up and down make a lot more noise than high speed fans.. IMHO
> Those these by Martin were done how long ago?? And it is possible to build motors more efficient.. Martin is a great source of information and I do have a lot of respect for him but a lot of the reviews you find of his are very old


No laing did not start using a better or different motor lol, Laing pumps we use have been being made for over 15 years they didn't just up and change them lol. Also Laing and the 3rd party distributors claim the wattage is 18, if the motor change they would lower the number.

The Aquaero is wrong, and thats not saying anything bad about it, it does a lot of functions and does them well, but you cant have everything in 1 setup. If it comes down to Aquaero vs multi meter for current results I am trusting the MM.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *apw63*
> 
> The temps are not the pumps. The temp is the QA6 fan header amplifier temp. Are you sure the 21 watts is continuous output or start up oitput. Running wattage maybe considerably less, I'm not 100% sure about running wattage, but 28.9 is what AQ6 is reporting.


Ya its 21 (by martins testing) running other tests were done with Flukes showed more like 19-20 so his are a little off I feel, (he doesn't have the best meter). The startup voltage is more like 25ws. However Like I said the AQ6 is most likely just off in its calculation, if it is running at 11vs that could lower it to like 17ish maybe so that would be what you are seeing 1-12% off which is totally a good allowance for the AQ6s MM capabilities as I am sure that was an after thought.

You could hook a multi meter to the fan leads and test it yourself and also see if its 11v as it should be at 12.


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cyber Locc*
> 
> No laing did not start using a better or different motor lol, Laing pumps we use have been being made for over 15 years they didn't just up and change them lol. Also Laing and the 3rd party distributors claim the wattage is 18, if the motor change they would lower the number.
> 
> The Aquaero is wrong, and thats not saying anything bad about it, it does a lot of functions and does them well, but you cant have everything in 1 setup. If it comes down to Aquaero vs multi meter for current results I am trusting the MM.


true about a multimeter this is for sure and did not say that the motors had changed but I do know that the motors do not have to change for them to be more efficient better pumps can do this. Also how do you get a wattage measurement using a multi-meter??


----------



## Cyber Locc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> true about a multimeter this is for sure and did not say that the motors had changed but I do know that the motors do not have to change for them to be more efficient better pumps can do this. Also how do you get a wattage measurement using a multi-meter??


Take the leads on your multi and touch them to the respective pins, best to use needle pins with a fan lead. Red to 12v and black to ground just like you would anything else, that would be the easy way







it would be better to test at the board but that would be a little harder to do.

And just so no one gets offended I am not dissing the AQ6 by its readings being off, there is a lot of tech in that little thing its hard to do everything perfect. Its most likely more accurate than motherboards







.

This is for testing a bad fan but it gives you an idea how to do it







https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CmYE5Qtda2k

You could also build a custom 4 extension wire that hooks directly to a MM, this would make it easier for constant testing and a little easier with like an AQ.


----------



## apw63

I will get my fluke out this weekend and check the fan header volts. Swifteck rates these MCP 35X at max power 18w.


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cyber Locc*
> 
> Take the leads on your multi and touch them to the respective pins, best to use needle pins with a fan lead. Red to 12v and black to ground just like you would anything else, that would be the easy way
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> it would be better to test at the board but that would be a little harder to do.
> 
> And just so know gets offended I am not dissing the AQ6 by its readings being off, there is a lot of tech in that little thing its hard to do everything perfect
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Its most likely more accurate than motherboards
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


sorry but that will not work to get a wattage reading you can get a voltage reading like this but not a wattage reading.. I have ran 2 DDC PMW pumps and measure it using the correct meters and it will really surprise you what you will get for a total wattage. I do not have access to the filers I saved on this but it was 30 watts give or take a watt or so.. and want to say lower but memory is something I lost with age..

not offending me at all just want to make sure everyone gets and has right info..


----------



## Cyber Locc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *apw63*
> 
> I will get my fluke out this weekend and check the fan header volts. Swifteck rates these MCP 35X at 18w.


Awesome be sure to let us know







. I am curious if seross is right and something has changed, it is possible







.


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *apw63*
> 
> I will get my fluke out this weekend and check the fan header volts. Swifteck rates these MCP 35X at max power 18w.


need more than a flute multimeter as power or wattage is volts X current

you will actually need a clamp on amp probe and a multimeter


----------



## Cyber Locc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> need more than a flute multimeter as power or wattage is volts X current
> 
> you will actually need a clamp on amp probe and a multimeter


Not if he is just trying to get the full speed, if he wanted to test the wattage at different PWM ranges then yes he would need an oscilloscope. The fluke can give him the Current and the Voltage and he can do the calculation.

Which actually brings up another issue with AQ6s readings, PWM current is not easy to measure and to get a true measure you need a oscilloscope. Which is a very large very expensive device needless to say the AQ6 doesn't have that functionality, so its PWM readings are most likely a bad judge all together, (full speed aside). However there again its claiming 11v, I could be wrong but should it be 12v at all times? and varying pulses of 12vs to control the PWM. If you have a leads of some kind you should compare the AQ reading with a direct 12v line like a molex.


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cyber Locc*
> 
> Not if he is just trying to get the full speed, if he wanted to test the wattage at different PWM ranges then yes he would need an oscilloscope. The fluke can give him the Current and the Voltage and he can do the calculation.
> 
> Which actually brings up another issue with AQ6s readings, PWM current is not easy to measure and to get a true measure you need a oscilloscope. Which is a very large very expensive device needless to say the AQ6 doesn't have that functionality, so its PWM readings are most likely a bad judge all together, (full speed aside). However there again its claiming 11v, I could be wrong but should it be 12v at all times? and varying pulses of 12vs to control the PWM. If you have a leads of some kind you should compare the AQ reading with a direct 12v line like a molex.


a True RMS amp probe and multimeter is going to give you the best measurements to get wattage from. because they take the root mean square of the signals. You could get the amp reading with a O-scope but I would be real hesitant to put that kind of potential through a 0-scope some are rated for 1 or more amps but most are just for milliamps.

all you measure is the pulse width of the signal the PMW does not carry current it just turns on the motor for a time depending on the width of the pulse or turns it off. you will measure voltage from GND to +12 and will measure the current either on the + signal or sometimes the ground is the current carrying line.

You can get a O-scope that uses USB that will fit in your pocket for under 100 dollars that will measure the PMW signal and show it to you..

you have to have currant and voltage to calculate watts, kw or hp and all 3 are the same..

I do these calculations and work on this equipment on a much larger scale for a living. I have held several engineering positions on drilling rigs around the world. So I do have a idea what I am talking about.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cyber Locc*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Willius*
> 
> I actually meant powering the DDC's through the aquaero. So without extra Molex from the pump straight to the PSU.
> 
> 
> 
> I would advise against that. A DDC uses 21ws of power so each would needs its own channel. Also not sure how well the wires would hold up to that kind of load, It has a molex connector for a reason. If it was a good idea to run DDCs in that way I would think they would have a version made in that way.
Click to expand...

imo a properly cooled aq would have no issues powering 2 pumps, but ill leave that to shoggy to answer

the wires on the other hand are fine, MOST when they do the mod, just reuse the same wires but all you have to do is look at the awg and the length, and a little googling and you will find the amps are fine for that wire size ( iirc 22ga but i may be wrong as i am going off the top of my head )

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ShortBtwnHdset*
> 
> I forgot to ask, do pumps work better on PWM power? Or is it better to have voltage control?


all pump controls are personal pref, vario, pwm, or voltage

pwm does have the adv of more power at lower rpms, iirc

and vario doesnt take up any channels
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cyber Locc*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> true about a multimeter this is for sure and did not say that the motors had changed but I do know that the motors do not have to change for them to be more efficient better pumps can do this. Also how do you get a wattage measurement using a multi-meter??
> 
> 
> 
> Take the leads on your multi and touch them to the respective pins, best to use needle pins with a fan lead. Red to 12v and black to ground just like you would anything else, that would be the easy way
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> it would be better to test at the board but that would be a little harder to do.
> 
> And just so no one gets offended I am not dissing the AQ6 by its readings being off, there is a lot of tech in that little thing its hard to do everything perfect. Its most likely more accurate than motherboards
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> 
> This is for testing a bad fan but it gives you an idea how to do it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CmYE5Qtda2k
> 
> You could also build a custom 4 extension wire that hooks directly to a MM, this would make it easier for constant testing and a little easier with like an AQ.
Click to expand...

there are a few ways to test, but yes they make clamp meters, but they also have meters that need to be connected in series with the load to read amps \ ( dc voltage ) this is what i assume the aquaero uses

i want to add that motors ONLY use as much energy as needed. it is rated at a MAX current ( may or may not include starting currents ) but a max is not the same as what it DOES pull

the harder the pump has to work the more amps it will pull, so if instead of water ( 100% ) you replace it with a glycol mix you will use more amps to provide the same speed, the motor has to work harder to do the same work, as the glycol mix is thicker then water

which is why the DDC spec sheet from xylem inc laing thermotech the manufacture says the rating is a MAX rating,


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> imo a properly cooled aq would have no issues powering 2 pumps, but ill leave that to shoggy to answer
> 
> the wires on the other hand are fine, MOST when they do the mod, just reuse the same wires but all you have to do is look at the awg and the length, and a little googling and you will find the amps are fine for that wire size ( iirc 22ga but i may be wrong as i am going off the top of my head )
> all pump controls are personal pref, vario, pwm, or voltage
> 
> pwm does have the adv of more power at lower rpms, iirc
> 
> and vario doesnt take up any channels
> there are a few ways to test, but yes they make clamp meters, but they also have meters that need to be connected in series with the load to read amps \ ( dc voltage ) this is what i assume the aquaero uses
> 
> i want to add that motors ONLY use as much energy as needed. it is rated at a MAX current ( may or may not include starting currents ) but a max is not the same as what it DOES pull
> 
> the harder the pump has to work the more amps it will pull, so if instead of water ( 100% ) you replace it with a glycol mix you will use more amps to provide the same speed, the motor has to work harder to do the same work, as the glycol mix is thicker then water
> 
> which is why the DDC spec sheet from xylem inc laing thermotech the manufacture says the rating is a MAX rating,


Actually if you want to be more specific this is the Max rating passive cooled, change the heat sink or use forced air cooling and the max rating goes up.. we use a lot of GE 752 DC traction motors and the difference between a 900hp, 1050hp or 1500hp rating is the size of the blower that is cooling the motor!!


----------



## Mega Man

or use a different voltage as well .....

also to add that that the aquaero is USUALLY very accurate they may have a one off, but i own 6 personally. and they are very close to accurate --they may be a bit off, maybe 2-4% but meh, and i do have flukes and field pieces, and other equip


----------



## Cyber Locc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> i want to add that motors ONLY use as much energy as needed. it is rated at a MAX current ( may or may not include starting currents ) but a max is not the same as what it DOES pull
> 
> the harder the pump has to work the more amps it will pull, so if instead of water ( 100% ) you replace it with a glycol mix you will use more amps to provide the same speed, the motor has to work harder to do the same work, as the glycol mix is thicker then water


I agree with this 100%, However all of our testing is with water. The pumps have been tested by many people in our industry and there "18W" max is wrong with water all results I have seen are around 20. I am not saying the AQ is inaccurate, I am sure its 5-10% accurate probably closer to 5-7%, however if it is providing only 11 volts, and doing so within a 5% accuracy than the actual 18-19 could be perceived as 14ws.

Also a lot of tests show that a DDC at 75%+ is at full speed, so what they extra power gives you I am not sure, it may be for more PSI/Thicker liquid. So if he has a low flow based loop, at 70% (or 11vs in this case) it may be running at full speed however with more restriction it would take more wattage to run at the rated speed. That or the PWM range on the Pump just sucks either one is possible and the former kind of goes hand and hand with what you are saying.

I am very curious however as to why the AQ6 is providing 11vs instead of 12, maybe the AQ is protecting itself by lowering the voltage to stay under the 30 watts?. As the actual wattage should be more so around 38-40 from everything that I have seen.

We could test the latter, he hooks up 1 of his pumps to each channel and see if it then runs at 12vs instead of 11.

AFAIK, the PAs have a 30w max per channel, I am not sure if the AQ6 does or not. If it does then it protecting itself somehow by limiting the pumps 30ws would explain why its under 30 and why the voltage is at 11. And with his low restriction setup at 11vs it runs max rpm.

Also in case of the Max wattage, I think it would be restriction based not thicker liquid. Laing does not rate the pump for use with Glycol or thick liquids it is a water only pump. They do make pumps that can and are made to handle Glycol the DDC is not one of them however.

Also as to the max wattage, I think that may be the Motors max wattage only not the entire device the board ect may be using another 1-2 watts which is why we see 19-20 with flukes.


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cyber Locc*
> 
> I agree with this 100%, However all of our testing is with water. The pumps have been tested by many people in our industry and there "18W" max is wrong with water all results I have seen are around 20. I am not saying the AQ is inaccurate, I am sure its 5-10% accurate probably closer to 5-7%, however if it is providing only 11 volts, and doing so within a 5% accuracy than the actual 18-19 could be perceived as 14ws.
> 
> Also a lot of tests show that a DDC at 75%+ is at full speed, so what they extra power gives you I am not sure, it may be for more PSI/Thicker liquid. So if he has a low flow based loop, at 70% (or 11vs in this case) it may be running at full speed however with more restriction it would take more wattage to run at the rated speed. That or the PWM range on the Pump just sucks either one is possible and the former kind of goes hand and hand with what you are saying.
> 
> I am very curious however as to why the AQ6 is providing 11vs instead of 12, maybe the AQ is protecting itself by lowering the voltage to stay under the 30 watts?. As the actual wattage should be more so around 38-40 from everything that I have seen.
> 
> We could test the latter, he hooks up 1 of his pumps to each channel and see if it then runs at 12vs instead of 11.
> 
> AFAIK, the PAs have a 30w max per channel, I am not sure if the AQ6 does or not. If it does then it protecting itself somehow by limiting the pumps 30ws would explain why its under 30 and why the voltage is at 11. And with his low restriction setup at 11vs it runs max rpm.
> 
> Also in case of the Max wattage, I think it would be restriction based not thicker liquid. Laing does not rate the pump for use with Glycol or thick liquids it is a water only pump. They do make pumps that can and are made to handle Glycol the DDC is not one of them however.
> 
> Also as to the max wattage, I think that may be the Motors max wattage only not the entire device the board ect may be using another 1-2 watts which is why we see 19-20 with flukes.


OMG you need help and need to study more if you think lowing volts will lower the watts. if a motor needs 12 watts to run it is going to pull out of the device 12 watts does not matter if it is at 12, 6, 2 volts.. you will pull more amps if you lower the volts so you do not do this to protect controllers as it is the amps that will kill it not volts!!!

the wattage of the motor has nothing to do with the small amount of waste power the board consumes!! OMG


----------



## Cyber Locc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> OMG you need help and need to study more if you think lowing volts will lower the watts. if a motor needs 12 watts to run it is going to pull out of the device 12 watts does not matter if it is at 12, 6, 2 volts.. you will pull more amps if you lower the volts so you do not do this to protect controllers as it is the amps that will kill it not volts!!!
> 
> the wattage of the motor has nothing to do with the small amount of waste power the board consumes!! OMG


Ya okay so I forgot when you run a fan at 10vs instead of 12v the amperage goes up and the fan spins at the same speed......

Reread what you just said and then realize that in the case of motors its wrong.

Just like a PWM fan can be RPM controlled so can a pump, you drop the voltage you drop the RPMs of the motor, period. Reducing the RPMs of the motor also reduce the wattage.

Said simply "Well, the basic idea is that, a DC fan's rotation speed depends -among other characteristics- on the voltage that the fan is powered. Lower voltage will cause the fan to draw less current ( I = U / R ). Less current generates weaker magnetic field. Weaker magnetic field produces less torque on the shaft. Less torque on the shaft means simply less rpm!"

http://www.pcbheaven.com/circuitpages/A_Simple_Way_To_Reduce_A_DC_Fan_Speed/

Now substitute fan for the pump motor and you have the same result. A ddc ran at 12vs is not the same a ddc ran at 11vs.

I also did not say that the waste of the baord has anything to do with the Motors Wattage, I said there "18w" claim is most likely that of the motor and does not include that of the boards waste wattage. The AQ6 which is what we are talking about does however factor in this waste wattage.


----------



## Mega Man

Actually it is pretty well known, less volts is more amps, that is why the aq5 when overheating brings the fans to max speed, even at less rpms they still pull more amps, again dc voltage


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cyber Locc*
> 
> Ya okay so I forgot when you run a fan at 10vs instead of 12v the amperage goes up and the fan spins at the same speed......
> 
> Reread what you just said and then realize that in the case of motors its wrong.
> 
> Just like a PWM fan can be RPM controlled so can a pump, you drop the voltage you drop the RPMs of the motor, period. Reducing the RPMs of the motor also reduce the wattage.


Quote:


> Reread what you just said and then realize that in the case of motors its wrong


.

it is and it is not.. depends on how complicated you want to make it!! for the purpose of these pumps yes reducing the RPM or speed you are reducing the work being done... easiest way for people to understand is using the rule of thumb I stated.. if you are figuring the max watts... their is a curve to every pump and this determines the wattage of the motor.. so you get a laring pump and put a differant top on it and the characteristics change...

the only way to figure the wattage of a motor is by using a voltmeter and a clamp on amp meter...


----------



## Cyber Locc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> Actually it is pretty well known, less volts is more amps, that is why the aq5 when overheating brings the fans to max speed, even at less rpms they still pull more amps


Okay but that is not possible as it defys the laws of how a motor works, as I just illustrated.

It is pretty well known that at a certain point the motor is not able to spin, at this point the amperage does shoot up and this will cause issues with the fan and the AQ most likely.


----------



## seross69

this has gotten so funny and so off topic I am gone!!!


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cyber Locc*
> 
> Okay but that is not possible as it defys the laws of how a motor works, as I just illustrated.
> 
> It is pretty well known that at a certain point the motor is not able to spin, at this point the amperage does shoot up and this will cause issues with the fan and the AQ most likely.


all I am going to say is you are absolutely wrong and have no idea what you talking about!! when you say this about a motor!!! when I figure pump and power rates for a lot bigger things than this for a living you are going to tell me it defies the laws of how a motor works... lol

Some people,,, I am gone!!! Not worth the time and it is so funny I can not stop laughing!!


----------



## pennover

Question: these new cablemod RGB LEDs, I guess there's no reason why you couldn't hook them up to the RGB connector on the Aquaero 6 XT, right?


----------



## Mega Man

http://www.overclock.net/t/1372263/aquaero-question

https://martinsliquidlab.wordpress.com/2011/12/20/ac-aquaero-5-review-guide-wip/9/

i will not attempt this further then this post, so you are welcome to argue with me, but you are wrong, and i am too lazy to care to show you why, past this post

you like to come in with ohms law, but you DO NOT understand motors- this is going to be a VERY BASIC explanation, nothing more, as you always argue with me i wont waste too much time on it

at 12v or at 6v the motor attempts to do the same work, 12v has more power, same work takes less amps.

6volts has less power, takes alot more amps to do the same work,

now again this IS NOT a perfect example, it is not ment to, it is ment ot be a VERY BASIC idea to HELP you understand why, not explain everything, obviously it is not 100% accurate but hopefully it helps you to understand a basic "why"
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pennover*
> 
> Question: these new cablemod RGB LEDs, I guess there's no reason why you couldn't hook them up to the RGB connector on the Aquaero 6 XT, right?


you CAN NOT, you need either zeaks amp ( aftermarket add on )

OR a farbwerk

the rgb header only is rated for like 1 led, and is common cathode where are most led strips is common anode ( if you dont understand please google this, if you still dont feel free to ask !~ )


----------



## Cyber Locc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> all I am going to say is you are absolutely wrong and have no idea what you talking about!! when you say this about a motor!!! when I figure pump and power rates for a lot bigger things than this for a living you are going to tell me it defies the laws of how a motor works... lol
> 
> Some people,,, I am gone!!! Not worth the time and it is so funny I can not stop laughing!!


Dude I literally just linked you the proof you have linked??? nothing, no evidence of your claim at all. Google how a DC motor works and it will show you exactly what I just did. If I am wrong fine, I will accept that when you show me fact. You work with big motors all day, Oh so not DC motors and ones that have absolutely no bearing to our discussion?

I am fully able to admit when I am wrong, and have zero issue with doing so. So show me facts please and thank you, otherwise goodbye I guess.

Fact, the Speed of a DC motor is determined by its current and voltage, more current = more torque, more voltage = more RPM, if you reduce either of these then it affects the motor. So your argument is wrong and makes zero since as if it was correct then fan controllers wouldn't exist as they wouldn't do anything.

Anyway in the case at hand lets get AP back and he can show us the AQ says for wattage at 50% load he usually runs and I guarantee that the answer is not 28ws. Is that not what this is all about as last I checked it was.


----------



## Cyber Locc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1372263/aquaero-question
> 
> https://martinsliquidlab.wordpress.com/2011/12/20/ac-aquaero-5-review-guide-wip/9/
> 
> i will not attempt this further then this post, so you are welcome to argue with me, but you are wrong, and i am too lazy to care to show you why, past this post
> 
> you like to come in with ohms law, but you DO NOT understand motors- this is going to be a VERY BASIC explanation, nothing more, as you always argue with me i wont waste too much time on it
> 
> at 12v or at 6v the motor attempts to do the same work, 12v has more power, same work takes less amps.
> 
> 6volts has less power, takes alot more amps to do the same work,
> 
> now again this IS NOT a perfect example, it is not ment to, it is ment ot be a VERY BASIC idea to HELP you understand why, not explain everything, obviously it is not 100% accurate but hopefully it helps you to understand a basic "why"
> you CAN NOT, you need either zeaks amp ( aftermarket add on )
> 
> OR a farbwerk
> 
> the rgb header only is rated for like 1 led, and is common cathode where are most led strips is common anode ( if you dont understand please google this, if you still dont feel free to ask !~ )


Dude that proves my point 100%.

The argument going on is I said when you decrease the voltage the wattage also goes down. Now go and look at what you just posted, here is martins numbers....

11.70v, is 1.064a = 12.44w
5.92v, .388a = 2.29w

So thanks for that, if you decrease the voltage on a fan the amperage does not increase nor does the wattage thats what was said that I was disputing, and martin just showed you the same exact thing......

The Disspating wattage inside of the AQ/Fan is not what we were talking about and is irrelevant to the convo, and I am not refuting it. So me and you were talking about differing things and thats how that happened.

He said the pump will require the same amount of Wattage at 11v as it will at 12v will that is wrong.

Martins pics in question for easy reference,


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!







https://martinsliquidlab.wordpress.com/2011/12/20/ac-aquaero-5-review-guide-wip/9/


----------



## Costas

All you need to measure the total power drawn (Watts) by the pump is to simply measure the DC current with a suitable multimeter.

There is no real need to use an oscilloscope or clamp meter etc...

Our pumps convert the DC to a pulsed waveform which actually drives the internal motor - technically the motor itself is not a DC motor as our pump motors consist of a number of discrete windings which are pulsed in sequence to make the rotor turn. However the whole assembly runs off DC. Meausure the total DC current and that will give you the total power drawn.

If we reduce the voltage to a DDC or D5 pump it will draw LESS current as we are not changing the impeadance of the internal motor windings - It is impossible for our pumps to draw more power when we reduce the incoming supply voltage.

With a reduced input voltage, less voltage is applied across the motor coils of our pumps and because the windings are a fixed impeadance LESS power is dissipated.


----------



## Cyber Locc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Costas*
> 
> All you need to measure the total power drawn (Watts) by the pump is to simply measure the DC current with a suitable multimeter.
> 
> There is no real need to use an oscilloscope or clamp meter etc...
> 
> Our pumps convert the DC to a pulsed waveform which actually drives the internal motor - technically the motor itself is not a DC motor as our pump motors consist of a number of discrete windings which are pulsed in sequence to make the rotor turn. However the whole assembly runs off DC. Meausure the total DC current and that will give you the total power drawn.
> 
> If we reduce the voltage to a DDC or D5 pump it will draw LESS current as we are not changing the impeadance of the internal motor windings - It is impossible for our pumps to draw more power when we reduce the incoming supply voltage.
> 
> With a reduced input voltage, less voltage is applied across the motor coils of our pumps and because the windings are a fixed impeadance LESS power is dissipated.


Thank you


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cyber Locc*
> 
> Dude I literally just linked you the proof you have linked??? nothing, no evidence of your claim at all. Google how a DC motor works and it will show you exactly what I just did. If I am wrong fine, I will accept that when you show me fact. You work with big motors all day, Oh so not DC motors and ones that have absolutely no bearing to our discussion?


Sorry but I work with and design uses for DC motors and pumps from 6 watts to 1500 hp.. SCR controlled!! So yes have bearing on our discussion...
Quote:


> I am fully able to admit when I am wrong, and have zero issue with doing so. So show me facts please and thank you, otherwise goodbye I guess.
> 
> Fact, the Speed of a DC motor is determined by its current and voltage, more voltage = more torque, more current = more RPM, if you reduce either of these then it affects the motor. So your argument is wrong and makes zero since as if it was correct then fan controllers wouldn't exist as they wouldn't do anything.


Where ever you got these facts they are completely wrong. not going to link you to anything because it is so laughable read what you said.

voltage = Torque!! Complete wrong statement
more current = more RPM complete wrong statement!!!

not feeding the trolls anymore


----------



## Cyber Locc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> Sorry but I work with and design uses for DC motors and pumps from 6 watts to 1500 hp.. SCR controlled!! So yes have bearing on our discussion...
> 
> Where ever you got these facts they are completely wrong. not going to link you to anything because it is so laughable read what you said.
> 
> voltage = Torque!! Complete wrong statement
> more current = more RPM complete wrong statement!!!
> 
> not feeding the trolls anymore


I am not a troll, I have now linked you 2 sources showing you are wrong, Costas showed you you are wrong. I am done, if you want to link factual evidence as I have then I will listen and read it, if you want to keep referencing what you do for a living well that honestly means little.

"The torque produced by the rotor is directly proportional to the current in the armature "

I suggest you read this, http://www.micromo.com/technical-library/dc-motor-tutorials/motor-calculations


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Costas*
> 
> All you need to measure the total power drawn (Watts) by the pump is to simply measure the DC current with a suitable multimeter.
> 
> There is no real need to use an oscilloscope or clamp meter etc...
> 
> Our pumps convert the DC to a pulsed waveform which actually drives the internal motor - technically the motor itself is not a DC motor as our pump motors consist of a number of discrete windings which are pulsed in sequence to make the rotor turn. However the whole assembly runs off DC. Meausure the total DC current and that will give you the total power drawn.
> 
> If we reduce the voltage to a DDC or D5 pump it will draw LESS current as we are not changing the impeadance of the internal motor windings - It is impossible for our pumps to draw more power when we reduce the incoming supply voltage.
> 
> With a reduced input voltage, less voltage is applied across the motor coils of our pumps and because the windings are a fixed impeadance LESS power is dissipated.


most multi-meters are rated to read milliamps not amps. and to use it to read the amps how would you do this?? my 87 will go to 10 amps so how would I get the amp reading??


----------



## Cyber Locc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> most multi-meters are rated to read milliamps not amps. and to use it to read the amps how would you do this?? my 87 will go to 10 amps so how would I get the amp reading??


Um no most multi meters are rated for Amps not milliamps, I think is what you are meaning to say.

And that is true most of the cheap junk is not reliable with MA, however there is lots of nice flukes that read MA accurately.


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cyber Locc*
> 
> I am not a troll, I have now linked you 2 sources showing you are wrong, Costas showed you you are wrong. I am done, if you want to link factual evidence as I have then I will listen and read it, if you want to keep referencing what you do for a living well that honestly means little.
> 
> "The torque produced by the rotor is directly proportional to the current in the armature "
> 
> I suggest you read this, http://www.micromo.com/technical-library/dc-motor-tutorials/motor-calculations


sorry but if you read what you quoted you proved your self wrong!!!!!!!!

























































Quote:


> The torque produced by the rotor is directly proportional to the current in the armature


you said this
Quote:


> voltage = Torque


so what is right and what is wrong??


----------



## ShortBtwnHdset

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pennover*
> 
> Question: these new cablemod RGB LEDs, I guess there's no reason why you couldn't hook them up to the RGB connector on the Aquaero 6 XT, right?


Looking at AQ manual, and link to your LED strip, you ought to be good! You can get RGB led tape for cheaper though, if you have soldering skills.


----------



## Cyber Locc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> sorry but if you read what you quoted you proved your self wrong!!!!!!!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> you said this
> so what is right and what is wrong??


Its Current = Torque, that is what I meant to say I wrote it backwards in the heat of the argument, as you did with MA and Amp







So I think you can understand.

Fixed it







Sorry about that, didn't realize I wrote them backwards.


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cyber Locc*
> 
> Um no most multi meters are rated for Amps not milliamps, I think is what you are meaning to say.
> 
> And that is true most of the cheap junk is not reliable with MA, however there is lots of nice flukes that read MA accurately.


show me!!!!!

a very basic multimeter

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Klein-Tools-Digital-Multimeter-MM1000/202521270

can be used to 10 amps but anyone that knows anything about electricity would not go this high and would use a clamp on meter

tell me where I would put the red and black leads from the meter is I wanted to measure amps?????


----------



## seross69

false
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cyber Locc*
> 
> Its Current = Torque, that is what I meant to say I wrote it backwards in the heat of the argument, as you did with MA and Amp
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I think you can understand.
> 
> Fixed it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sorry about that, didn't realize I wrote them backwards.


no when I said MA i meant MA when I said amps I meant amps..


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cyber Locc*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> most multi-meters are rated to read milliamps not amps. and to use it to read the amps how would you do this?? my 87 will go to 10 amps so how would I get the amp reading??
> 
> 
> 
> Um no most multi meters are rated for Amps not milliamps, I think is what you are meaning to say.
> 
> And that is true most of the cheap junk is not reliable with MA, however there is lots of nice flukes that read MA accurately.
Click to expand...

i think you will want to google "fluke 87" aka the 87, not sure which generation he has however, it is known by "87" by people who use it
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ShortBtwnHdset*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *pennover*
> 
> Question: these new cablemod RGB LEDs, I guess there's no reason why you couldn't hook them up to the RGB connector on the Aquaero 6 XT, right?
> 
> 
> 
> Looking at AQ manual, and link to your LED strip, you ought to be good! You can get RGB led tape for cheaper though, if you have soldering skills.
Click to expand...

as i explained above, no,just no .
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *pennover*
> 
> Question: these new cablemod RGB LEDs, I guess there's no reason why you couldn't hook them up to the RGB connector on the Aquaero 6 XT, right?
> 
> 
> 
> you CAN NOT, you need either zeaks amp ( aftermarket add on )
> 
> OR a farbwerk
> 
> the rgb header only is rated for like 1 led, and is common cathode where are most led strips is common anode ( if you dont understand please google this, if you still dont feel free to ask !~ )
Click to expand...


----------



## Cyber Locc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> false
> no when I said MA i meant MA when I said amps I meant amps..


Well then I have no clue what you are on about, as I have never seen a DC fan go over 10 amps that is just insane. We are talking about ma 2 amps at the most. Most of those cheap meters do not read very well at MA.

What exactly is your point? What MM can read a fan that uses 2 amps tops? well as you just said any of them so what is the question here.


----------



## Mega Man

there are dc motors that goto THOUSANDS of amps.


----------



## Cyber Locc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> there are dc motors that goto THOUSANDS of amps.


Oh I know, but not in a PC there isnt, so how does that have absolutely anything with what we are talking about in any way?

His statement that he is referring started with how does he measure the PC pump. Well the PC pump isnt using 1000s of AMPs.


----------



## Mega Man

....your right, we are talking about dc motors, they have nothing to do with dc motors....


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cyber Locc*
> 
> Well then I have no clue what you are on about, as I have never seen a DC fan go over 10 amps that is just insane. We are talking about ma 2 amps at the most. Most of those cheap meters do not read very well at MA.
> 
> What exactly is your point? What MM can read a fan that uses 2 amps tops? well as you just said any of them so what is the question here.


I still want you to teach me how to read amps or ma using a multimeter..

where do I put the red and black leads???


----------



## Cyber Locc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> ....your right, we are talking about dc motors, they have nothing to do with dc motors....


We are talking about DC motors in the context of our pumps and fans, so how a 1000 amp dc motor works is irrelevant and how to read one with a MM is even more irrelevant.


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cyber Locc*
> 
> Well then I have no clue what you are on about, as I have never seen a DC fan go over 10 amps that is just insane. We are talking about ma 2 amps at the most. Most of those cheap meters do not read very well at MA.
> 
> What exactly is your point? What MM can read a fan that uses 2 amps tops? well as you just said any of them so what is the question here.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cyber Locc*
> 
> Oh I know, but not in a PC there isnt, so how does that have absolutely anything with what we are talking about in any way?
> 
> His statement that he is referring started with how does he measure the PC pump. Well the PC pump isnt using 1000s of AMPs.


because the theory is all the same and they way they work and are controlled are all the same....


----------



## Costas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> most multi-meters are rated to read milliamps not amps. and to use it to read the amps how would you do this?? my 87 will go to 10 amps so how would I get the amp reading??


If you have a Fluke 87 then that will read the current fine.

Our typical pumps DDC/D5s etc only draw around 2A amps max so well under the capabilities of your Fluke.

You can even use the peak hold function to check for any peak current surges at startup etc.


----------



## Cyber Locc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> because the theory is all the same and they way they work and are controlled are all the same....


I understand that, however what does that have to do with our PC pumps? Why do we need a MM that reads more than 10 amps? we dont.

And you hook it inline to measure the amperage. Or you could use a clamp meter either way is fine.

Anyways I am done, I look forward to your results ACP,

And waiting on the evidence that a DC motors current increases as voltage decreases. Seross.


----------



## Costas

Here is one of my fancy clamp meters - Tektronix current probe...(It's designed to be used with an oscilloscope to look at the output).

It's measuring some peak transient pulse currents on my model RC helicopter. The servos which control the flight surfaces on the heli can draw 10's of amps peak...!


Here was a sample output from the above setup on one of my CRO's. Each vertical division represents 5 Amps as measured by the probe - So peak was around 25 amps in this particular measurement.


----------



## pennover

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ShortBtwnHdset*
> 
> Looking at AQ manual, and link to your LED strip, you ought to be good! You can get RGB led tape for cheaper though, if you have soldering skills.


Thanks! No soldering skill, unfortunately, but I anyway want the Cablemod LEDs for their magnetic mount solution.


----------



## Mega Man

@pennover

Again, please don't use the rgb output on the aquaero for rgb light strips. You WILL damage it


----------



## pennover

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> @pennover
> 
> Again, please don't use the rgb output on the aquaero for rgb light strips. You WILL damage it


Uh oh, thanks for the warning! So what can I plug in it then?


----------



## Mega Man

http://www.overclock.net/t/1474470/ocn-aquaero-owners-club/6930#post_24934630

You can plug in a SINGLE led (rgb common cathode) like the aquaero rgb from aqua computer

( most led strips are common anode )

For led strips look into the Farbwerk


----------



## pennover

Nice, thanks for the info


----------



## ShortBtwnHdset

Sorry about that Pennover, Mega's right, had no idea there were different configs of LED tape, and didn't think about an LED driver for the amperage.


----------



## Mega Man

Np


----------



## zerophase

Hey, I just want to check if the Mayhems Blitz Prois safe to run through the Aquaero 6 xt Waterblock connected to EK parts.


----------



## IT Diva

Well Shazaaaaaaam Batman . . . . . .

Go to sleep and wake up to pages of electronics arguments, most either irrelevant to brushless motors or just generally wrong, . . Either way, not worth going back thru each to try to correct.

A couple of take-aways,

Almost all DMMs measure current up to 200ma without replugging the leads, and most have a 10A range that requires replugging the + lead into a dedicated hole.

Internally, the 10A range measures the voltage dropped internally across a short, but fairly heavy gage wire between the 10A plug hole and the Com lead

Don't expect more than half an amp accuracy on the 10A range though.

To measure current with a DMM, put the red + lead on the + source and the black - lead on the wire to the load that would normally connect to the source +.

To measure current, the meter must be in series with the load, where with voltage measurement, you just measure in parallel with the load.

Costas has a point about needing a scope and a sensing device to be able to quantify accurately, what is actually going on.

A clamp meter, or even a DMM is going to basically average what transpires every half or quarter second or so.

If you think logically, a PWM pump at 50% duty cycle is going to have a low level draw on the 12V supply all the time to run the electronic circuitry, and then additionally, a significant draw for 20 microseconds at a time, while the motor is powered on.

You'd never see that without a sensing element and a scope

TRUE RMS meters are for sine wave measurements, not pulsed DC, and are accurate at best to ~1KHz, so mention of them was irrelevant to the argument.


----------



## apw63

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Well Shazaaaaaaam Batman . . . . . .
> 
> Go to sleep and wake up to pages of electronics arguments, most either irrelevant to brushless motors or just generally wrong, . . Either way, not worth going back thru each to try to correct.
> 
> A couple of take-aways,
> 
> Almost all DMMs measure current up to 200ma without replugging the leads, and most have a 10A range that requires replugging the + lead into a dedicated hole.
> 
> Internally, the 10A range measures the voltage dropped internally across a short, but fairly heavy gage wire between the 10A plug hole and the Com lead
> 
> Don't expect more than half an amp accuracy on the 10A range though.
> 
> To measure current with a DMM, put the red + lead on the + source and the black - lead on the wire to the load that would normally connect to the source +.
> 
> To measure current, the meter must be in series with the load, where with voltage measurement, you just measure in parallel with the load.
> 
> Costas has a point about needing a scope and a sensing device to be able to quantify accurately, what is actually going on.
> 
> A clamp meter, or even a DMM is going to basically average what transpires every half or quarter second or so.
> 
> If you think logically, a PWM pump at 50% duty cycle is going to have a low level draw on the 12V supply all the time to run the electronic circuitry, and then additionally, a significant draw for 20 microseconds at a time, while the motor is powered on.
> 
> You'd never see that without a sensing element and a scope
> 
> TRUE RMS meters are for sine wave measurements, not pulsed DC, and are accurate at best to ~1KHz, so mention of them was irrelevant to the argument.


Great explanation Thank you!

I started all of this by stating. I run both of my DDC pump off one header with out issue.

So am I being reckless by powering 2 swiftech MPC X35 pumps from one fan header on my AQ6? The pumps typically run around 50% duty cycle. The pumps do run for 1 second at 100% during system startup. Maybe @soggy can step in and offer some aquacomputer rep stand point. I still do not think this is a big issue to run both. I could be wrong and will trust recognized people with much more experience opinions.

47% power


----------



## correzzana

Hi to everyone Overclockers and Watercoolers

I'm in the final steps of perfecting my last huge watercooling build (which I hope to show soon in a buildlog), and it has a lot of Aquacomputer stuff: an Aquaero 6XT, D5, High Flow Sensor, a PowerAdjust 3 and a Farbwerk.
So far, so good on everything but I have just one last doubt on those last 2 components: is there anyway to adjust or to change the brightness of the PA3 and Farbwerks modules front led?
I got to know the Aquaero very well (wonderful machine), and I know the 3 "touch leds" are adjustable and that's really nice. The only thing is that those other 2 LEDs are really *disturbing bright*... They dont' look that well with the Aquaero too!! At least everything's blue
I searched a bit around the web and the AC forum too but really found any other thread or someone talking about this. I just know it's a 2mm led which is 99% probably removable...
Anyone tried experimented on their poweradjust / farbwerks ??I also thought as a very last solution to remove them both, but that defeats the whole purpose of the thing.
Maybe play around with some lower voltages led bulbs ? I'm sure I'm not the first one which was arguing about this... And this is sure the right place to ask.

Ok, I'll stop talking and attach a picture that shows what I'm talking about. Sorry for the exposure/light of the pic, but that lets you also understand how bright and annoying those things look. No more need for any lighting in my room while computing at night











I originally opened another thread in the WC forum, but as also others suggested the best idea is also to post something here.

LINK: http://www.overclock.net/t/1592520/aquacomputer-farbwerk-and-pa3-front-leds-dimmable-interchangeable#post_24935334


----------



## Cyber Locc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *apw63*
> 
> Great explanation Thank you!
> 
> I started all of this by stating. I run both of my DDC pump off one header with out issue.
> 
> So am I being reckless by powering 2 swiftech MPC X35 pumps from one fan header on my AQ6? The pumps typically run around 50% duty cycle. The pumps do run for 1 second at 100% during system startup. Maybe @soggy can step in and offer some aquacomputer rep stand point. I still do not think this is a big issue to run both. I could be wrong and will trust recognized people with much more experience opinions.
> 
> 47% power


I do not feel that running them as you do is an issue, I meant I would not advise running them at full power on 1 channel, as at 1 channel its more like 36-40ws (and I think an AQ6 isn't suppose to have more than 30ws). I think the AQ, has a high burst wattage, to a lot for the fact that when turned on they pull 24w each so 48, but the AQ is made to handle that.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Costas has a point about needing a scope and a sensing device to be able to quantify accurately, what is actually going on.
> 
> A clamp meter, or even a DMM is going to basically average what transpires every half or quarter second or so.
> 
> If you think logically, a PWM pump at 50% duty cycle is going to have a low level draw on the 12V supply all the time to run the electronic circuitry, and then additionally, a significant draw for 20 microseconds at a time, while the motor is powered on.
> 
> You'd never see that without a sensing element and a scope
> 
> TRUE RMS meters are for sine wave measurements, not pulsed DC, and are accurate at best to ~1KHz, so mention of them was irrelevant to the argument.


I was the one to suggest a scope at first, however the convo was about the entire 12v load, the scope was only brought in as a way to measure load with PWM speed changes (honestly really wasn't relevant either







). What we are looking for is the wattage of the pumps at 100% so PWM shouldn't have ever even came into the convo. It did due to me saying the AQ6s wattage reading is most likely wrong as it cannot accurately read the PWM (although that shouldn't matter at 100%)

It was more so we wanted to know for sure how much wattage at 12v flat not rated down. As his AQ6 is showing 28ws for 2 mcp35xs at full speed (which the AQ is powering at 11v so I think that may be a factor). As everything that I have seen says 20ws each.

Thanks for your input







, now that your here, have you ever measured a DDC at full load? is it 14ws as the AQ is reading or is it 20ws that every other test I have ever seen says. Also why is the AQ running the pumps at 11v instead of 12v. Oh and +rep for the chime in great post


----------



## fast_fate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cyber Locc*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> I do not feel that running them as you do is an issue, I meant I would not advise running them at full power on 1 channel, as at 1 channel its more like 36-40ws (and I think an AQ6 isn't suppose to have more than 30ws). I think the AQ, has a high burst wattage, to a lot for the fact that when turned on they pull 24w each so 48, but the AQ is made to handle that.
> I was the one to suggest a scope at first, however the convo was about the entire 12v load, the scope was only brought in as a way to measure load with PWM speed changes (honestly really wasn't relevant either
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ). What we are looking for is the wattage of the pumps at 100% so PWM shouldn't have ever even came into the convo. It did due to me saying the AQ6s wattage reading is most likely wrong as it cannot accurately read the PWM (although that shouldn't matter at 100%)
> 
> 
> 
> It was more so we wanted to know for sure how much wattage at 12v flat not rated down. As his AQ6 is showing 28ws for 2 mcp35xs at full speed (which the AQ is powering at 11v so I think that may be a factor). As everything that I have seen says 20ws each.
> 
> Thanks for your input
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> , now that your here, have you ever measured a DDC at full load? is it 14ws as the AQ is reading or is it 20ws that every other test I have ever seen says. Also why is the AQ running the pumps at 11v instead of 12v. Oh and +rep for the chime in great post


Depends on which model DDC


----------



## Cyber Locc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fast_fate*
> 
> Depends on which model DDC


Ya I agree depends on the model







, but I said what model mcp35xs which are DDC 3.25s with a custom top. Also yep your pic is in line with what I have seen 20ws







, well his AQ6 is claiming 14 so something isn't right. However it is also running at 11v at full speed for some reason so maybe that is the issue, as running it at 11vs will lower the wattage how much well I do not think 6ws, but I guess its possible?

Thanks for the Pic


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cyber Locc*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *fast_fate*
> 
> Depends on which model DDC
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ya I agree depends on the model
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> , but I said what model mcp35xs which are DDC 3.25s with a custom top. Also yep your pic is in line with what I have seen 20ws
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> , well his AQ6 is claiming 14 so something isn't right. However it is also running at 11v at full speed for some reason so maybe that is the issue, as running it at 11vs will lower the wattage how much well I do not think 6ws, but I guess its possible?
> 
> Thanks for the Pic
Click to expand...

Let's not fail to keep in mind that for the A6 to be able to voltage control its output, that the 12V coming in must go thru at least some circuitry before it shows up on the power pins of the fan headers.

That means there's at least some loss even when the circuitry is putting as much voltage as possible to the fan header, as it would in PWM mode, or in max power mode.

Therein lies the ~11V output to the pump.

That's one issue that you don't have to contend with when you use the pump's molex to the PSU.

As for wattage, let's look at the math . . . .

11V out of 12V is about 92%

If the pump is 20W at 12V, that would be 1.67A

92% of 1.67A is ~1.54A

1.54A times 11V equals 16.9W

That puts it within a reasonable margin of error for the way the A6 measures power, and puts having 2 pumps on a single header at about 34W, which is not likely to hurt the A6, especially if the other channels are lightly loaded and don't add to the cooling burden.

Remember that Shoggy has told us that the A6 could handle 36W per channel with the water block, though that much trouble to gain so little extra capacity doesn't make practical sense.

It still shows that as long as you manage the temps, the 30W limit is not a hard limit.

Running the pumps at less than 100% would put the load well within the load limits of the A6.

Darlene


----------



## Cyber Locc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Let's not fail to keep in mind that for the A6 to be able to voltage control its output, that the 12V coming in must go thru at least some circuitry before it shows up on the power pins of the fan headers.
> 
> That means there's at least some loss even when the circuitry is putting as much voltage as possible to the fan header, as it would in PWM mode, or in max power mode.
> 
> Therein lies the ~11V output to the pump.
> 
> That's one issue that you don't have to contend with when you use the pump's molex to the PSU.
> 
> As for wattage, let's look at the math . . . .
> 
> 11V out of 12V is about 92%
> 
> If the pump is 20W at 12V, that would be 1.67A
> 
> 92% of 1.67A is ~1.54A
> 
> 1.54A times 11V equals 16.9W
> 
> That puts it within a reasonable margin of error for the way the A6 measures power, and puts having 2 pumps on a single header at about 34W, which is not likely to kill the A6, especially if the other channels are lightly loaded and don't add to the cooling burden.
> 
> Running the pumps at less than 100% would put the load well within the load limits of the A6.
> 
> Darlene


That's exactly what I thought was going on, so the AQ6 is safe to be ran at over 30ws? That was kinda the underlying question







, So the AQ6 has a higher load drop with the more voltage running through it then? As he is seeing 11.4 at 47% and 11 at 100%, gosh wish you were here last night...

However that also brings a new question, as I am with you 100% that the reading should be in the 34ish range, however his AQ6 is claiming 28w so that is way off, that is about a 15-20% off in the measurement of power. That is kinda how this all started I wasn't sure if a AQ6 was happy with over 30 or not, and ACP didn't think it was using over 30ws, I was positive it was.

However then we could get into the fact that it may not need that much wattage. I looked more into this morning and I had it backwards, it does have to do with restriction. However the more flow a DDC has the more wattage it uses (which sounds backwards but ya, that is what I found from peoples testing). I looked at ACPs loop and he has a lot of very restrictive stuff in there so I guess that could reduce his wattage? So what is the AQ6s power measurement capabilities? I mean 5%, 10%, 20%?


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cyber Locc*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Let's not fail to keep in mind that for the A6 to be able to voltage control its output, that the 12V coming in must go thru at least some circuitry before it shows up on the power pins of the fan headers.
> 
> That means there's at least some loss even when the circuitry is putting as much voltage as possible to the fan header, as it would in PWM mode, or in max power mode.
> 
> Therein lies the ~11V output to the pump.
> 
> That's one issue that you don't have to contend with when you use the pump's molex to the PSU.
> 
> As for wattage, let's look at the math . . . .
> 
> 11V out of 12V is about 92%
> 
> If the pump is 20W at 12V, that would be 1.67A
> 
> 92% of 1.67A is ~1.54A
> 
> 1.54A times 11V equals 16.9W
> 
> That puts it within a reasonable margin of error for the way the A6 measures power, and puts having 2 pumps on a single header at about 34W, which is not likely to kill the A6, especially if the other channels are lightly loaded and don't add to the cooling burden.
> 
> Running the pumps at less than 100% would put the load well within the load limits of the A6.
> 
> Darlene
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That's exactly what I thought was going on, so the AQ6 is safe to be ran at over 30ws? That was kinda the underlying question
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> , *So the AQ6 has a higher load drop with the more voltage running through it then? As he is seeing 11.4 at 47% and 11 at 100%*, gosh wish you were here last night...
> 
> However that also brings a new question, as I am with you 100% that the reading should be in the 34ish range, however his AQ6 is claiming 28w so that is way off, that is about a 15-20% off in the measurement of power. That is kinda how this all started I wasn't sure if a AQ6 was happy with over 30 or not, and ACP didn't think it was using over 30ws, I was positive it was.
> 
> However then we could get into the fact that it may not need that much wattage. I looked more into this morning and I had it backwards, it does have to do with restriction. However the more flow a DDC has the more wattage it uses (which sounds backwards but ya, that is what I found from peoples testing). I looked at ACPs loop and he has a lot of very restrictive stuff in there so I guess that could reduce his wattage? So what is the AQ6s power measurement capabilities? I mean 5%, 10%, 20%?
Click to expand...

There is more voltage drop from the 12V supply to what is seen at the power pins of the fan headers as more _CURRENT_ is drawn by the load.

Another quirky thing to remember with PWM pumps, is that they all tend to hit max rpm at around 70% PWM in most testing . . . . it could be that with very high loads, (lots of restriction) that that number goes up, it could also be that 70% or so on the PWM line doesn't exactly translate to only 70% duty cycle on the motor's coils.

You'd have to set up a lab with the coils, the PWM signal, and line current sensors, all on a scope, and then have variable restriction control, and look at how everything interacts.

Even I'm not that much of a nerd.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> There is more voltage drop from the 12V supply to what is seen at the power pins of the fan headers as more _CURRENT_ is drawn by the load.
> 
> Another quirky thing to remember with PWM pumps, is that they all tend to hit max rpm at around 70% PWM in most testing . . . . it could be that with very high loads, (lots of restriction) that that number goes up, it could also be that 70% or so on the PWM line doesn't exactly translate to only 70% duty cycle on the motor's coils.
> 
> 
> 
> You'd have to set up a lab with the coils, the PWM signal, and line current sensors, all on a scope, and then have variable restriction control, and look at how everything interacts.
> 
> *Even I'm not that much of a nerd*.










mmmm not so sure about that part
















Missed you D. Awesome job on those self opening/closing doors by the way. I would like to see more pics of the automated system


----------



## Wam7

How did I get my Aquaero 5 Pro to keep the fan settings after a shutdown AND power disconnection from the socket? They always revert to another setting which doesn't seem standard so Fan 1-60% , Fan 2-50%, Fan 3-20% and Fan 4-70%. Whereas I want 70%, 70%, 45%, 45%.
They are controlled by power.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wam7*
> 
> How did I get my Aquaero 5 Pro to keep the fan settings after a shutdown AND power disconnection from the socket? They always revert to another setting which doesn't seem standard so Fan 1-60% , Fan 2-50%, Fan 3-20% and Fan 4-70%. Whereas I want 70%, 70%, 45%, 45%.
> They are controlled by power.


hit the save button (the disk icon) in aquasuite to save the profile to the Aquaero. You can also create a backup file on the systems tab for such cases.


----------



## ShortBtwnHdset

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *correzzana*
> 
> Hi to everyone Overclockers and Watercoolers
> "...I originally opened another thread in the WC forum, but as also others suggested the best idea is also to post something here."
> 
> Hi Correzzana! Did some thinking about your problem, explanation I gave in other post was oversimplified.
> 
> First, link I'm including is for Mouser, LED search, filters: blue in color, thru hole mount, clear lens (you said they were bright), 3 or 3.1mm mounting hole.
> http://www.mouser.com/Optoelectronics/LED-Lighting/LED-Emitters/Standard-LEDs-Through-Hole/_/N-b1bc8?P=1z0yt3kZ1z0yrm8Z1z0vpj4Z1ypwqqj
> 
> When specs are listed, they all seem to be 20mA current, but Aquacomputer is a German company, and their standards may be different. There is such a thing as an ultrabright LED that takes 50 mA of current. Only way to tell for sure is to ask, or (worst case scenario), lift one leg of the led from circuit board and put an ammeter in circuit to measure it.
> 
> 2nd thing is we really don't have a schematic (I'm no engineer, just know some basic electronics *And Often get it Wrong* (see my handle)). We don't know what's up/down stream in that circuit path. An LED is a diode, meant to pass current one way and block current in the other, but we don't know what the circuit function is, other than a visible indicator of power to the board. Is there protection circuitry inline with this, or some added purpose to the circuit other than that indication?
> 
> For us to dim the LED brightness , we would need to add some resistance in series with it, to lower the current thru it. Ideally, we would still need to keep the current and voltage drop the same as it is across that section (LED), so we would need to make an electrically equivalent circuit. The LED series component becomes a parallel circuit with the same voltage and current across the replaced section(LED). I did the math, but hope someone will check my work. This is assuming we are passing current in only one direction.
> 
> 
> 
> I'm hoping the jpeg can be read, this is from TinyCAD, free program for basic circuit drawing. Text should explain the methodology.
> 
> I just don't know that you want to void warranty on PowerAdjust, or go thru hassle of this. SMD boards are tricky, it's easy to lift a trace, and SMD components are a ***** to solder. Anyways, that's my thoughts.


----------



## ShortBtwnHdset

See if this is clearer.


----------



## ShortBtwnHdset

One thing, there is another assumption here, and that's that the effective resistance of the diode doesn't change as the current changes thru it. Maybe someone else can confirm that, or straighten me out.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ShortBtwnHdset*
> 
> *See if this is clearer.*


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ShortBtwnHdset*
> 
> One thing, there is another assumption here, and that's that the effective resistance of the diode doesn't change as the current changes thru it. Maybe someone else can confirm that, or straighten me out.


It's about as clear as my cataracts . . . .

It even has me confused, . . . and I know this stuff.

LEDs, while diodes in that they conduct in only one direction, are not used in the same way as other diodes.

They really are specifically designed for illumination, or to leverage their illumination capability, from the ir range to the low uv range.

The easiest way to think of an LED is to think of it as a dam . . . .

With a dam, you have no flow over the top until the water behind it reaches a certain depth, once that depth is reached, all additional water pours over the top so that you never get a water level behind the dam much more than a very small amount greater than the height of the dam.

LEDs need s minimal voltage level before the current starts flowing thru them called Vf or forward voltage. . . like the height of the dam

Vf varies by the LEDs color and chemical components.

Red is usually the lowest Vf at about 1.7V, then yellow, green around 2.5V and finally blue and white at around 3.6V

Once you exceed the Vf by a tenth of a volt or two, like the dam, they just let all the current pour thru, leading to self destruction.

Once an LED is conducting, it effectively has NO internal resistance, that's usually the hardest concept to grasp in using LEDs.

An LEDs brightness is a function of the average current passing thru it, and most LEDs that we use for PC illumination give the best brightness to lifespan ratio at 0.020A, or 20 ma.

To use LEDs simply, you just need to know how large a resistor you need to place in series with the LED so that it's current is properly limited.

To do that, you subtract the Vf value of the LED from the supply voltage, and then divide that that number by the current you want to flow thru your LED.

As an example, let's use a white LED, which is nominally ~3.6V for Vf, with a 12V supply, and we want it as bright as reasonably possible, so we want to have 20ma of current.

12V minus 3.6V equals 8.4V

8.4V divided by 0.020A equals 420, so ideally we're looking for a 420 ohm resistor.

The closest standard values are 390 ohms and 470 ohms.

The 390 ohm resistor would be a bit over 20ma and not be a good long term choice.

The 470 ohm resistor would be only slightly less than the 20ma we wanted, and provide a bit more buffer zone if our LED is a tad below spec on the Vf.

The secondary consideration for using individual LEDs is the power rating of the resistor.

In the example above, the resistor is going to have 8.4V dropped across it and 20ma of current going thru it, that comes out to 168 mW, so a standard 1/4W resistor would be fine.

If it was a red LED, with a Vf of about 1.7V, then we have to divide 10.3V by .020A to get that resistor value . . . . which would give us, ideally, 515 ohms.

The next standard value that would keep us below 20ma rather than over 20ma, is 560 ohms. . . . and as before, a 1/4W resistor is OK.

There you go, analog use of LEDs 101.

Darlene


----------



## goofyhsk

Just received my first Aquaero (6 Pro) to use basically the same as LongRoadTrips' MonsterITX build;

Is it ok to rotate the black wire and plastic of the Aqua computer temperature sensor (53067) Inline -M-F on its fitting? IE, do the fitting up onto rad then rotate black bit to align wires..

Thanks


----------



## Willius

Considering my question about modding my DDC's to a single 4 pin connection to hook them up to my Aquaero 6. Which will be done shortly. I have another question. Would it be bad if I shorten the cables from the DDC pumps to about 5cm? The Aquaero will be mounted in my S3 in the lowest 5.25 inch slot. En both my pumps are located directly behind it. So having the standard length of wires is kinda (read way to long) over the top.

I will post a picture when I get home to show how I imagine'd it.


----------



## Mega Man

Not at all. Lengthening is the only worry, and even then you may just need to make the wires a thicker gauge


----------



## Willius

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> Not at all. Lengthening is the only worry, and even then you may just need to make the wires a thicker gauge


Thanks alot! I thought I could shorten them without worry, but better be save than sorry! Potentially Frying 2 pumps because i did not double check isn't something I would be happy about hehe.

+Rep!


----------



## Methodical

Question/clarification. I know the A6 controllers can control 3 and 4 pin fans. Can it control both types at the same time or is it an either or type deal. Can I have a set of pwm fans on one and 3 pin fans on another at the same time?

Thanks


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Methodical*
> 
> Question/clarification. I know the A6 controllers can control 3 and 4 pin fans. Can it control both types at the same time or is it an either or type deal. *Can I have a set of pwm fans on one and 3 pin fans on another at the same time?
> *
> Thanks


Yes,

Each of the 4 fan channels can be independently set to either PWM of voltage control regardless of what you have any other channel set for..


----------



## GTXJackBauer

Quick question. Anyone own a Corsair PSU, specifically a AX1200i or other ones with a Aquaero 6 XT and have no touchscreen issues?


----------



## Master Chicken

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ShortBtwnHdset*
> 
> One thing, there is another assumption here, and that's that the effective resistance of the diode doesn't change as the current changes thru it. Maybe someone else can confirm that, or straighten me out.


The forward voltage of an LED will change as a function of the forward current though often not substantially for the range of currents for which they are most often operated. There will likely be a Vf / If curve in the datasheet for the LED in question. For example, a particular LED may have a Vf of 1.4v at 20ma, but 1.28v at 10ma. The output / intensity is lower at the lower current ... obviously. But the LED's operating life is extended at that lower operating point.


----------



## Master Chicken

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> ...
> Therein lies the ~11V output to the pump.
> ...


Exactly. Most voltage controlled fan ports like this are using a buck topology switch-mode regulator to set a voltage below the normal supply level ... 12v in this case. And most buck regulators have a fixed off-time in their operating loop ... which translates to a maximum duty cycle. Often this maximum is 92 - 93% which would obviously limit the output voltage to just over 11v.

Some more recent regulators have higher duty cycle capabilities and some have a "bypass" mode or 100% duty cycle mode where they will pass the supply voltage directly through by leaving the P-FET on.

Do you know the regulator being used by the 6XT? It will probably be a NatSemi or TI part ... these very popular.


----------



## Mystriss

This is a bit off-topic, but ya'll were talking about lengthening wires so I was wondering. I've got RGB LED music controller's that I've decoupled the microphone's off the PCB's so I can drive LED strips off specific audio channels. I'd used 22 awg on the sub microphone which is only like 5' away from the controller and that works great. However, I'm intending to run shielded in-wall rated wire to the right, left, and rear speaker microphone's and I'm looking at around 20' between the controller's and their mic's. Should I think about jumping the gauge up on those?


----------



## Costas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GTXJackBauer*
> 
> Quick question. Anyone own a Corsair PSU, specifically a AX1200i or other ones with a Aquaero 6 XT and have no touchscreen issues?


Yes - I run mine off an AX1200i - No issues to report with the touch screen.

What is the exact nature of your problem with the touchscreen. There has been the odd one or two people complain of touchscreen issues in the past but not all that many.


----------



## GTXJackBauer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Costas*
> 
> Yes - I run mine off an AX1200i - No issues to report with the touch screen.
> 
> What is the exact nature of your problem with the touchscreen. There has been the odd one or two people complain of touchscreen issues in the past but not all that many.


I already got an RMA replacement in but they sent me the wrong LED colors. After working with what I have, I still get a semi functioning touchscreen. After talking with Sven today from AC, he told me it can possibly be my PSU because a lot of folks who had issues with their touchscreen, had a Corsair PSU. I was hoping I would find someone with the same PSU that had a working AQ 6 XT and I did, thanks to you.









Here's a video I took earlier today of the issues.





I bought this AQ 6 XT in Nov. of 2015 and still haven't gotten a perfectly working AQ 6 XT. Still working on it though.


----------



## Mega Man

i see the problem

it IS NOT a touch screen !

it has the 3 buttons on the right and 4 buttons on the bottom where you can see f1,f2,f3,f4 ( exit menu back )

also looks like you still have the plastic on the screen btw!


----------



## GTXJackBauer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> i see the problem
> 
> it IS NOT a touch screen !
> 
> it has the 3 buttons on the right and 4 buttons on the bottom where you can see f1,f2,f3,f4 ( exit menu back )
> 
> also looks like you still have the plastic on the screen btw!


That is a touchscreen and the plastic was removed weeks ago. You're thinking of the AQ 6 Pro that isn't a touchscreen controller.


----------



## Mega Man

no the XT is NOT a touch screen, the pro has 3 *mechanical buttons*, the xt has 3 *touch buttons* on the right side and 4 *touch buttons* along the bottom ( TOUCH BUTTONS not touch screen ) for a total of 7 buttons on the xt ( i have 6 xts )


----------



## GTXJackBauer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> no the XT is NOT a touch screen, the pro has 3 *mechanical buttons*, the xt has 3 *touch buttons* on the right side and 4 *touch buttons* along the bottom ( TOUCH BUTTONS not touch screen ) for a total of 7 buttons on the xt ( i have 6 xts )


Well, the bottom buttons don't work either and after a few hours or a few days being on, the right side or any of the touch buttons don't work at all.


----------



## Mega Man

the bottom ones take a few to figure out IMO they run along the bottom of the screen itself the side buttons i never have had issues with, i would look into key sensitivity settings, i run an old version of aquasuite however it is under aquaero >>user interface>>key settings>> key sensitivities


----------



## RDKing2

I see the face plate was changed. Is it seated correctly? Is the front screen and connectors fully seated? I have noticed if the screws are over tightened it can cause the screen to bow which can cause problems with the touch buttons.


----------



## GTXJackBauer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> the bottom ones take a few to figure out IMO they run along the bottom of the screen itself the side buttons i never have had issues with, i would look into key sensitivity settings, i run an old version of aquasuite however it is under aquaero >>user interface>>key settings>> key sensitivities


+1 Rep

Thank you sir. You saved the day! I needed to increase the sensitivity. Granted it got locked up a few times but after a few hard resets via PSU switch while the PC was off, it worked!









Now I just need them to send me the right LEDs. I purchased blue but they accidently sent me red.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RDKing2*
> 
> I see the face plate was changed. Is it seated correctly? Is the front screen and connectors fully seated? I have noticed if the screws are over tightened it can cause the screen to bow which can cause problems with the touch buttons.


Yes. My original faceplate/screen had a mind of its own. It would scroll and none of the touch buttons worked. They told me it could be the cause of the glue they used. The glue had dried up on the screen so the CQ wasn't so great on that one. They aren't using that method anymore they told me and are using strong adhesive tape. They sent me a black faceplate already installed with that adhesive tape. All I had to do was screw it in and because of Mega's advise, it is working as intended. I feel like jumping for joy.

Thanks again!

P.S. - Keeping fingers crossed it would still work after long hours of being on.


----------



## Mega Man

glad it helped !~! tyvm for my 4th flame !~


----------



## Costas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GTXJackBauer*
> 
> +1 Rep
> 
> Thank you sir. You saved the day! I needed to increase the sensitivity. Granted it got locked up a few times but after a few hard resets via PSU switch while the PC was off, it worked!


Glad its all sorted...!

When you adjust the sensitivity - if you ramp up the value too high (from memory mine can only go to a value of high 40's or thereabouts before they play up) the circuitry keeps outputting a key press as if the key is constantly being held down. It will just stop responding as the key is being continually being held down (although it physically isn't) and only way out of it is to reboot etc as you found out...


----------



## Methodical

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Yes,
> 
> Each of the 4 fan channels can be independently set to either PWM of voltage control regardless of what you have any other channel set for..


Cool. Thanks


----------



## GTXJackBauer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Costas*
> 
> Glad its all sorted...!
> 
> When you adjust the sensitivity - if you ramp up the value too high (from memory mine can only go to a value of high 40's or thereabouts before they play up) the circuitry keeps outputting a key press as if the key is constantly being held down. It will just stop responding as the key is being continually being held down (although it physically isn't) and only way out of it is to reboot etc as you found out...


That is exactly what is happening. I have the sensitivity set to 60 and it gets stuck as if someone is spam clicking it, which than needs a hard reset. When I have it in the 40s, the bottom buttons are almost non-existent.

Glad you told me this because I still thought I still had a bad AQ 6 XT. I will be calling AC in the next few hours and explaining this whole thing. Hopefully I'm able to get the Blue LEDs back, this time around.

Thanks again Costas!


----------



## RDKing2

I am curious. Did you physically check the screen for bowing? Over tightening the outer screws on the face may cause the bowing which in turn can cause a button press or change the tolerance for the button press.


----------



## GTXJackBauer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RDKing2*
> 
> I am curious. Did you physically check the screen for bowing? Over tightening the outer screws on the face may cause the bowing which in turn can cause a button press or change the tolerance for the button press.


Yes I have. There was no such effect visible. The only time I saw issues was with my first RMA. The faceplate that came with the AQ 6 XT was glued but it weren't the case in some spots and so you had a disconnect.


----------



## Edge0fsanity

So in an effort to clean up the wiring mess that sits behind my aquaero 6 pro i recently purchased several of these 4 pin pcb splitter blocks for my corsair sp120 HPE pwm fans.



Do i need to clip the rpm pin on all but one of the connections in order to get it to work correctly or will it be fine as is?


----------



## Mega Man

or the PCB cut the traces,

i wish they would add dip switches to remove all but 1 fan or leave all 4 pins hooked up !

but yes all but 1 !


----------



## GTXJackBauer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> or the PCB cut the traces,
> 
> i wish they would add dip switches to remove all but 1 fan or leave all 4 pins hooked up !
> 
> but yes all but 1 !


That's a freakin great idea. A switch to disable all the RPM wires except "Channel 1" if you will on its way out and still have the option for the others. Don't need no power? No, problem!


----------



## RDKing2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Edge0fsanity*
> 
> SNIP
> Do i need to clip the rpm pin on all but one of the connections in order to get it to work correctly or will it be fine as is?


Not sure what board that is. You can simply try it or use a DMM / continuity meter to check if all pins are connected.


----------



## Edge0fsanity

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RDKing2*
> 
> Not sure what board that is. You can simply try it or use a DMM / continuity meter to check if all pins are connected.


its a ModMyToys 4-Pin PWM Power Distribution PCB - 6-Way Block
http://www.performance-pcs.com/modmytoys-4-pin-pwm-power-distribution-pcb-6-way-block.html

doesn't seem like they'd have 4 pins on all of them just for the hell of it. Can't test it with a meter right now. Vast majority of my tools are in storage right now unfortunately and i won't have access to them again until august. I guess i'll just clip the rpm pins so i don't have to worry about it.


----------



## RDKing2

Have not used the MMT's blocks. From what I have read most of their blocks have all the pins connected. As mega said about the pcb traces, might want to check them out. Either way if you cut the pins or traces it is pretty much a permanent mod. Only thing about cutting before checking operation is that if it was designed with only one connected and you happen to cut the wrong one. Pain to correct the error.


----------



## Edge0fsanity

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RDKing2*
> 
> Have not used the MMT's blocks. From what I have read most of their blocks have all the pins connected. As mega said about the pcb traces, might want to check them out. Either way if you cut the pins or traces it is pretty much a permanent mod. Only thing about cutting before checking operation is that if it was designed with only one connected and you happen to cut the wrong one. Pain to correct the error.


good point, i'll test one of the blocks before i start cutting pins


----------



## JasonMorris

I have several of the MMT's boards and I just bend the pin down far enough that the fan connector will sit on it. No need to cut it. If you ever need it again just bend it up.


----------



## Mads1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JasonMorris*
> 
> I have several of the MMT's boards and I just bend the pin down far enough that the fan connector will sit on it. No need to cut it. If you ever need it again just bend it up.


Handy to know, have you a pic of this.


----------



## JasonMorris

I don't without opening up my case







but I just use a flat headed screw driver and push gently. Just look up the pin config for PWM and it's easy to work out.


----------



## Cozmo85

Right now i have my fans ramp up based on water temp. Can i do it based on delta?


----------



## GTXJackBauer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cozmo85*
> 
> Right now i have my fans ramp up based on water temp. Can i do it based on delta?


Yes you can.


----------



## iczerjones

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cozmo85*
> 
> Right now i have my fans ramp up based on water temp. Can i do it based on delta?


As GTXJackBauer said, you sure can. Go into the Aquaero sensors page and select virtual sensors. You can set up a calculated virtual sensor there. For my setup, I created a 'loop average' virtual temp, then used that to compare to an ambient sensor. (see pics)

Loop average:



Delta T:


----------



## NeeqOne

I plan creating a custom USB cable for my aquaero. Will the Hilitchi 515 Pcs 40 Pin 2.54mm Pitch Single Row Pin Headers be okay for this? Thanks.


----------



## Daggi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NeeqOne*
> 
> I plan creating a custom USB cable for my aquaero. Will the Hilitchi 515 Pcs 40 Pin 2.54mm Pitch Single Row Pin Headers be okay for this? Thanks.


Yes You are good to go with that connector kit


----------



## NeeqOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Daggi*
> 
> Yes You are good to go with that connector kit


Thanks.


----------



## CookieSayWhat

Hey all,

Hoping everyone can help me with a problem I'm having here.

I have 4 AQ D5 USB pumps. All of them were working when I tested them in my pedestal. They had water so I didn't fry them. I emptied the water out and let it sit for 2 weeks. When I powered it back up again to test it only one pump will power up.

Any suggestions? All the cables are exactly the same and so is the PSU.

I'm at a complete loss here as to what happened unless they seized up or something...but the one didn't. Even then it's pushing water through all of them and I can see them rotating. Just no power.


----------



## GTXJackBauer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CookieSayWhat*
> 
> Hey all,
> 
> Hoping everyone can help me with a problem I'm having here.
> 
> I have 4 AQ D5 USB pumps. All of them were working when I tested them in my pedestal. They had water so I didn't fry them. I emptied the water out and let it sit for 2 weeks. When I powered it back up again to test it only one pump will power up.
> 
> Any suggestions? All the cables are exactly the same and so is the PSU.
> 
> I'm at a complete loss here as to what happened unless they seized up or something...but the one didn't. Even then it's pushing water through all of them and I can see them rotating. Just no power.


Are you hearing any pumps struggling other than the one that is working? Could be trapped air, etc.


----------



## Mega Man

Check your wires, pumps usually don't just fail


----------



## CookieSayWhat

Well they're all in series and the one that works has definitely cleared all the air out of the system. There is no vibration, no hum or anything just complete silence.

The wiring is all stock (at least the pumps). The extension was one I made, but I tested all the lines with a volt meter and as well as other 4 pin devices, works as it's supposed to.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CookieSayWhat*
> 
> Well they're all in series and the one that works has definitely cleared all the air out of the system. There is no vibration, no hum or anything just complete silence.
> 
> The wiring is all stock (at least the pumps). The extension was one I made, but I tested all the lines with a volt meter and as well as other 4 pin devices, works as it's supposed to.


Look for pins in the pump's molexes to have a pin pushed back up inside too far so that it isn't engaging the supply pin properly.

If the one that runs is making the other impellers rotate from the flow, then it isn't an issue where something has frozen them up.

If all the pins are making proper connections, and a voltmeter is showing 12V at the pump's side of the Molex, is there any possible way that they got wet inside, and after sitting, the damage is now manifesting?

D.


----------



## CookieSayWhat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Look for pins in the pump's molexes to have a pin pushed back up inside too far so that it isn't engaging the supply pin properly.
> 
> If the one that runs is making the other impellers rotate from the flow, then it isn't an issue where something has frozen them up.
> 
> If all the pins are making proper connections, and a voltmeter is showing 12V at the pump's side of the Molex, is there any possible way that they got wet inside, and after sitting, the damage is now manifesting?
> 
> D.


I didn't really look hard at the pump's pins, but I'll give it a look when I get home from work. They didn't seem like they were back to far and I got a nice firm connection with the PSU molex.

I really don't think they got wet. There was zero leaks as far as I could tell. They're in EK pump mounts with the EK Rev top.

The only thing I think could have happened is was I had them connected via aquabus to an AQ6. I didn't plug the pumps in via their 12 Volt but left their aquabus connections hooked up to a splitter while I was testing two PA 3's and a fabwerk (connected to a AQ6 and those were all powered up). I noticed that the PAs and fabwerk wouldn't connect via the aquabus system when the pumps were hooked up to the splitter....

I'm hoping I didn't fry the internals doing that. Still weird that the one pump is unaffected.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CookieSayWhat*
> 
> I didn't really look hard at the pump's pins, but I'll give it a look when I get home from work. They didn't seem like they were back to far and I got a nice firm connection with the PSU molex.
> 
> I really don't think they got wet. There was zero leaks as far as I could tell. They're in EK pump mounts with the EK Rev top.
> 
> The only thing I think could have happened is was I had them connected via aquabus to an AQ6. I didn't plug the pumps in via their 12 Volt but left their aquabus connections hooked up to a splitter while I was testing two PA 3's and a fabwerk (connected to a AQ6 and those were all powered up). I noticed that the PAs and fabwerk wouldn't connect via the aquabus system when the pumps were hooked up to the splitter....
> 
> I'm hoping I didn't fry the internals doing that. Still weird that the one pump is unaffected.


I would say the most likely cause is "pushed back" molex pins. It is quite easy to one (or both) of the pins in the pump plug been pushed far back that does not make proper contact with the psu molex. Also to check if the pump is working keep you hand on the body of it and you will feel the pump coming live when you turn the psu on.


----------



## GTXJackBauer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CookieSayWhat*
> 
> The only thing I think could have happened is was I had them connected via aquabus to an AQ6. I didn't plug the pumps in via their 12 Volt but left their aquabus connections hooked up to a splitter while I was testing two PA 3's and a fabwerk (connected to a AQ6 and those were all powered up). I noticed that the PAs and fabwerk wouldn't connect via the aquabus system when the pumps were hooked up to the splitter.....


Not sure if it matters but check and see your settings if you're able to run off of one pump.


----------



## CookieSayWhat

Thanks for the info guys.

First thing I'm going to do is check the pins, because that's the easiest.

If that is the case I'll feel like the world's biggest moron I swear.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CookieSayWhat*
> 
> Thanks for the info guys.
> 
> First thing I'm going to do is check the pins, because that's the easiest.
> 
> If that is the case I'll feel like the world's biggest moron I swear.


don´t feel like that and let´s hope is that the case. We only known that and suggested that because we already been there and had the same problem before


----------



## jvillaveces

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CookieSayWhat*
> 
> Hey all,
> 
> Hoping everyone can help me with a problem I'm having here.
> 
> I have 4 AQ D5 USB pumps. All of them were working when I tested them in my pedestal. They had water so I didn't fry them. I emptied the water out and let it sit for 2 weeks. When I powered it back up again to test it only one pump will power up.
> 
> Any suggestions? All the cables are exactly the same and so is the PSU.
> 
> I'm at a complete loss here as to what happened unless they seized up or something...but the one didn't. Even then it's pushing water through all of them and I can see them rotating. Just no power.


I had two perfectly good PWM D5s die on me after I sleeved the cables. The problem turned out to be I re-connected the molex wrong, so I was feeding them from the 5V wire instead of the 12V. Just moving the pins to the correct slots fixed it...


----------



## Barefooter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jvillaveces*
> 
> I had two perfectly good PWM D5s die on me after I sleeved the cables. The problem turned out to be I re-connected the molex wrong, so I was feeding them from the 5V wire instead of the 12V. Just moving the pins to the correct slots fixed it...


Pin #1 is always 12 volts. If you look carefully the connector body should have a #1 imprinted on it. That's how I always remember


----------



## jvillaveces

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Barefooter*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *jvillaveces*
> 
> I had two perfectly good PWM D5s die on me after I sleeved the cables. The problem turned out to be I re-connected the molex wrong, so I was feeding them from the 5V wire instead of the 12V. Just moving the pins to the correct slots fixed it...
> 
> 
> 
> Pin #1 is always 12 volts. If you look carefully the connector body should have a #1 imprinted on it. That's how I always remember
Click to expand...

Out of the infinite catalog of possible mistakes, and despite my amazing creativity at making them all, I'm sure that is one I will never fall for again!


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *CookieSayWhat*
> 
> Thanks for the info guys.
> 
> First thing I'm going to do is check the pins, because that's the easiest.
> 
> If that is the case I'll feel like the world's biggest moron I swear.
> 
> 
> 
> don´t feel like that and let´s hope is that the case. We only known that and suggested that because we already been there and had the same problem before
Click to expand...

if i told you the many ways i have " let out the magic smoke" you would laugh, some rookie mistakes, but really everyone does it !~
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jvillaveces*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Barefooter*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *jvillaveces*
> 
> I had two perfectly good PWM D5s die on me after I sleeved the cables. The problem turned out to be I re-connected the molex wrong, so I was feeding them from the 5V wire instead of the 12V. Just moving the pins to the correct slots fixed it...
> 
> 
> 
> Pin #1 is always 12 volts. If you look carefully the connector body should have a #1 imprinted on it. That's how I always remember
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Out of the infinite catalog of possible mistakes, and despite my amazing creativity at making them all, I'm sure that is one I will never fall for again!
Click to expand...

haha


----------



## CookieSayWhat

Well I checked the pins. They're all the way in there. They're pinned out correctly. 12V pin 1 and ground pin 2.

Any other suggestions?

EDIT: WELL if things couldn't get any weirder. Plugging it in to the USB has powered one of them up and it is now fully working...

Edit: So they only work with the USB plugged in. As soon as the USB is removed they stop working... Also, none of them will communicate with the aquabus and the second I plug the aquabus that is connected into any of the pumps all the PA's and Fabwerks stop showing up on the AQ6

Edit: Well the last one powered up when connected to USB but won't communicate with aquasuite. None of them will communicate with the AQ6 via the aquabus.


----------



## iczerjones

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CookieSayWhat*
> 
> Well I checked the pins. They're all the way in there. They're pinned out correctly. 12V pin 1 and ground pin 2.
> 
> Any other suggestions?
> 
> EDIT: WELL if things couldn't get any weirder. Plugging it in to the USB has powered one of them up and it is now fully working...
> 
> Edit: So they only work with the USB plugged in. As soon as the USB is removed they stop working... Also, none of them will communicate with the aquabus and the second I plug the aquabus that is connected into any of the pumps all the PA's and Fabwerks stop showing up on the AQ6
> 
> Edit: Well the last one powered up when connected to USB but won't communicate with aquasuite. None of them will communicate with the AQ6 via the aquabus.


I haven't used the AQ D5's, but like the flow meters, is there a chance that the device ID was reset and they all have the same ID now, causing issues? (specifically with Aquabus) It working via USB kind of nudged my thinking in that direction. Perhaps connect one up and set a new ID, then move to Aquabus, then the next pump to USB, and so on.

(disregard if the D5's don't use IDs, I honestly have no experience with them, only flow meters)

Edit: Guess they do, see below.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CookieSayWhat*
> 
> Well I checked the pins. They're all the way in there. They're pinned out correctly. 12V pin 1 and ground pin 2.
> 
> Any other suggestions?
> 
> EDIT: WELL if things couldn't get any weirder. Plugging it in to the USB has powered one of them up and it is now fully working...
> 
> Edit: So they only work with the USB plugged in. As soon as the USB is removed they stop working... Also, none of them will communicate with the aquabus and the second I plug the aquabus that is connected into any of the pumps all the PA's and Fabwerks stop showing up on the AQ6
> 
> Edit: Well the last one powered up when connected to USB but won't communicate with aquasuite. None of them will communicate with the AQ6 via the aquabus.


You may have to connect them to USB one at a time after the other in sequence and set each one to the next address. If more than one thing has the same address, they won't be able to communicate.


----------



## GTXJackBauer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GTXJackBauer*
> 
> Not sure if it matters but check and see your settings if you're able to run off of one pump.


----------



## CookieSayWhat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> You may have to connect them to USB one at a time after the other in sequence and set each one to the next address. If more than one thing has the same address, they won't be able to communicate.


They all have unique addresses except the last one. Since it won't talk to aqua suite I have no idea what it's doing. But I didn't do them one at a time. I'll try that as well


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CookieSayWhat*
> 
> They all have unique addresses except the last one. Since it won't talk to aqua suite I have no idea what it's doing. But I didn't do them one at a time. I'll try that as well


Besides the change in the aquabus id for each pump (12, 13, 14, 15) don't forget to set priority aquabus to every one of them. Them do a hard re-set (power off and take the PSU cable off the outlet for a few seconds). Then turn it in. It should work.


----------



## CookieSayWhat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Besides the change in the aquabus id for each pump (12, 13, 14, 15) don't forget to set priority aquabus to every one of them. Them do a hard re-set (power off and take the PSU cable off the outlet for a few seconds). Then turn it in. It should work.


Made sure they all had unique address, with priority set. Did the hard reset and they still won't communicate with the AQ6. I tired connecting one direct to the AQ6 with an aquacomputer cable and it still didn't work.

Not entirely sure what's going on :/


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CookieSayWhat*
> 
> Made sure they all had unique address, with priority set. Did the hard reset and they still won't communicate with the AQ6. I tired connecting one direct to the AQ6 with an aquacomputer cable and it still didn't work.
> 
> Not entirely sure what's going on :/


you mentioned you are using others aquabus devices (flow meter) if I recall correctly? If memory still serves you have a limited number of aquabus devices you can connect to (4 I think but I might be wrong other might chime in and correct me). Try connect each pump alone to aquabus high without any other devices and see if communicates with the Aquaero...


----------



## CookieSayWhat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> you mentioned you are using others aquabus devices (flow meter) if I recall correctly? If memory still serves you have a limited number of aquabus devices you can connect to (4 I think but I might be wrong other might chime in and correct me). Try connect each pump alone to aquabus high without any other devices and see if communicates with the Aquaero...


I have 2 Poweradjust 3's and a Fabwerk which all aren't considered MPS devices and have their own Aquabus adresses.

I tired connecting a pump directly the AQ6 with an aquacomputer cable, that I know works. And it still wouldn't communicate.
The really crazy part is I had this all working just perfectly on an aquabus set up already. I just don't know what happened over those 2 weeks.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *CookieSayWhat*
> 
> Made sure they all had unique address, with priority set. Did the hard reset and they still won't communicate with the AQ6. I tired connecting one direct to the AQ6 with an aquacomputer cable and it still didn't work.
> 
> Not entirely sure what's going on :/
> 
> 
> 
> you mentioned you are using others aquabus devices (flow meter) if I recall correctly? If memory still serves you have a limited number of aquabus devices you can connect to (4 I think but I might be wrong other might chime in and correct me). Try connect each pump alone to aquabus high without any other devices and see if communicates with the Aquaero...
Click to expand...

Iirc 4mps devices but that isn't all the aquabus allows


----------



## CookieSayWhat

Well I sent a pm to shoggy. Hopefully he'll have more insight into the issues


----------



## CookieSayWhat

Here's what Shoggy had to say about the issue:

"the pump that only work when USB is connected two, will have a damage diode on its controller board for sure. This diode is used to manage the 5V power supply which can come in through USB/aquabus or directly from the 4-pin Molex plug.

It is likely that at some point in your test setup there was a problem with the voltage or maybe the ground level that can cause spikes in the voltage. The chances are quite good that this damage can be repaired but we would need the pump here or at least its controller board.

A workaround is to connect the 5V and ground from the main power supply to the USB port of the pump. No further connections (like the data lines) to the USB port are allowed in this case since it can cause a short circuit!

Since you said this pump can be also not controlled anymore, it is also likely that more than only this diode got damaged. In this case a repair will be almost impossible that the controller board must be exchanged. Maybe the better option. If you have some basic soldering skills you can also do that yourself without returning the pump.

A new board cost 14.90 Euro and can be dispatched in a padded envelope for 5.00 Euro.

If this pump has a faulty communication interface it will crash the whole aquabus communication as soon as you attach it.

A general problem with the aquabus are different signal levels if you power the pumps and other devices from different lines of the PSU. Their ground level can be slightly different which is enough to alter the waveform of the aquabus communication in a way that the aquaero can not trigger the signal correctly anymore."

So it sounds like I fried something in the pumps, just have to figure out how now.


----------



## DerComissar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DerComissar*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Methodical*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *saintruski*
> 
> Edit: didnt mean to quote
> 
> Just got mine, must say not impressed with build quality. all the stamping for the wording is worn like it was used, thats aesthetic. however on the backside all the connectors look like they were poorly soldered on, all the soldering looked great expect one looked almost bridged...i had to sponge it up and fix it myself. but the seating looks shoddy if you look at pwm 1 and 2, fans 3 and 4, and the NC NO COM Relay area and flow areas.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hopefully it makes up for it
> 
> 
> 
> Seems this issue has gotten glossed over. Can Shoggy or anyone address this?
> 
> Thanks
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Cozmo85*
> 
> On my A6 the aluminum front panel was in really rough shape as well. The black replacement i ordered at the same time was perfect. Maybe I should contact them about a replacement silver panel.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> This is getting ridiculous, does Aquacomputer have any kind of quality control standards?
> The propaganda from Shoggy over the past few years hasn't rectified anything yet either.
> Still non-conforming mounts, faceplates poorly glued on, and this nonsense.
> 
> Yeah, every company has the odd issue, but for a controller this expensive, and not a high-volume item, there is no excuse.
> 
> Do I still want to buy one? Of course.
> But seeing these issues is keeping me from doing so.
Click to expand...

After posting my QC rant, I figured I'd roll the dice and finally buy one of these suckers.
Managed to source one from Dazmode, that kept my cost lower than it would have been from PPC, ModMyMods, or AquaTuning due to the higher shipping costs.

Still cost me just shy of $400 Cad, for an Aquaero 6 XT, passive heatsink, and temp. sensor.
But that's no fault of Aquacomputer or any of the dealers. Our dollar is tanked right now.
I actually think that the sub-$200 USD price is a fair deal for an Aquaero, for those lucky US customers.

Mine looks to be in good shape, the screen seems to be well glued on, or whatever they use to adhere it now:


I have the non-conforming flex-bay mount (S8 case) coming in from Case Labs as well, as it seems it is still needed for the AQ6.
I look forward to playing with this controller, my 16 Nidec fans should benefit from it, as will my hearing.


----------



## Mystriss

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CookieSayWhat*
> 
> Here's what Shoggy had to say about the issue:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> "the pump that only work when USB is connected two, will have a damage diode on its controller board for sure. This diode is used to manage the 5V power supply which can come in through USB/aquabus or directly from the 4-pin Molex plug.
> 
> It is likely that at some point in your test setup there was a problem with the voltage or maybe the ground level that can cause spikes in the voltage. The chances are quite good that this damage can be repaired but we would need the pump here or at least its controller board.
> 
> A workaround is to connect the 5V and ground from the main power supply to the USB port of the pump. No further connections (like the data lines) to the USB port are allowed in this case since it can cause a short circuit!
> 
> Since you said this pump can be also not controlled anymore, it is also likely that more than only this diode got damaged. In this case a repair will be almost impossible that the controller board must be exchanged. Maybe the better option. If you have some basic soldering skills you can also do that yourself without returning the pump.
> 
> A new board cost 14.90 Euro and can be dispatched in a padded envelope for 5.00 Euro.
> 
> If this pump has a faulty communication interface it will crash the whole aquabus communication as soon as you attach it.
> 
> 
> 
> A general problem with the aquabus are different signal levels if you power the pumps and other devices from different lines of the PSU. Their ground level can be slightly different which is enough to alter the waveform of the aquabus communication in a way that the aquaero can not trigger the signal correctly anymore."
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> So it sounds like I fried something in the pumps, just have to figure out how now.


Does this mean that we should be putting all our pumps on the same PSU cable, or can anyone clarify?


----------



## alnsnk

Hey guys,

I have a few questions about connecting dual pumps to an AQ6. Is it possible to connect 2 pumps to one fan header on the AQ6? Or does each pump need it's own channel? The pumps I currently have are Swiftech MCP655-B will these work or will I need to get different ones, if so which ones would work? My current pumps have a 4 pin molex and 3 pin fan connector with a blue signal wire, can I convert the 4 pin molex to 3 pin fan or should I just buy one that's already made like: https://www.dazmode.com/store/product/connection_cable_for_laing_ddc_pumps_-_poweradjust_2_aquaero_5/

Thank you in advance for your help and patience.


----------



## Revan654

Just finished install mine today.



Water Temps:


PC Temps


RPM Speed:



It's a bit Warmer in the room due to sudden burst of warm temperatures outside. Temps are a bit higher then usually.

1. I have the 6 XT. I still haven't gotten a chance to play around with the software. How do you go about saving the data to the device. It seems it keeps resetting my fan speeds and date/time everytime I boot-up

2. Is their a way to add CPU & GPU temps to the Software?


----------



## iczerjones

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> Just finished install mine today.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Water Temps:
> 
> 
> PC Temps
> 
> 
> RPM Speed:
> 
> 
> 
> It's a bit Warmer in the room due to sudden burst of warm temperatures outside. Temps are a bit higher then usually.
> 
> 
> 
> 1. I have the 6 XT. I still haven't gotten a chance to play around with the software. How do you go about saving the data to the device. It seems it keeps resetting my fan speeds and date/time everytime I boot-up
> 
> 2. Is their a way to add CPU & GPU temps to the Software?


1. Yep, just go into the Aquaero tab, then the bottom item (settings, I believe) and save as a profile. If you have wildly different fan curve profiles for testing or whatnot, this is a good spot to save/load them as well.

2. Sure is. It will require running some 3rd party tool such as OpenHardwareMonitor or AIDA64 in the background, then go into Aquaero > Sensors > Software Sensors and set up a software sensor using a value from the 3rd party software. (remember to save to profile afterward!)


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alnsnk*
> 
> Hey guys,
> 
> I have a few questions about connecting dual pumps to an AQ6. Is it possible to connect 2 pumps to one fan header on the AQ6? Or does each pump need it's own channel? The pumps I currently have are Swiftech MCP655-B will these work or will I need to get different ones, if so which ones would work? My current pumps have a 4 pin molex and 3 pin fan connector with a blue signal wire, can I convert the 4 pin molex to 3 pin fan or should I just buy one that's already made like: https://www.dazmode.com/store/product/connection_cable_for_laing_ddc_pumps_-_poweradjust_2_aquaero_5/
> 
> Thank you in advance for your help and patience.


Assuming you want voltage control you can hook them up to 1 channel but imoit is too close to the amp limit, you are welcome to try but I would verify you have the electronic fuse in place ( it will shut off the channel though so you may need to quickly shut down your pc. ) imo better to use 2
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> Just finished install mine today.
> 
> 
> 
> Water Temps:
> 
> 
> PC Temps
> 
> 
> RPM Speed:
> 
> 
> 
> It's a bit Warmer in the room due to sudden burst of warm temperatures outside. Temps are a bit higher then usually.
> 
> 1. I have the 6 XT. I still haven't gotten a chance to play around with the software. How do you go about saving the data to the device. It seems it keeps resetting my fan speeds and date/time everytime I boot-up
> 
> 2. Is their a way to add CPU & GPU temps to the Software?


1-i don't understand it only saves to the Aquaero. If you use Suu like cpu and gpu temps he info and the aqua suite service has to load ( sub w.e. monitoring program you use for how info) before it can.

2) yes using he info, aida64 and iirc hw monitor


----------



## seth1969

Just bought a aq6 pro and some ek vardar 120 er fans, installed items yesterday and for the life in me cannot controll the fans with the pwm.
Manual says, Outputs-fans-fan 1-4 then controll mode pwm controll.
Tried this lots of times and fans dont speed you or down.


----------



## iczerjones

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seth1969*
> 
> Just bought a aq6 pro and some ek vardar 120 er fans, installed items yesterday and for the life in me cannot controll the fans with the pwm.
> Manual says, Outputs-fans-fan 1-4 then controll mode pwm controll.
> Tried this lots of times and fans dont speed you or down.


Did you go into aquasuite and change the fan header mode to PWM? I believe they ship in voltage control mode. (3-pin) Just open the Aquaero tab on the side, select fans, then Advanced settings, and set 'PWM Controlled'.


----------



## seth1969

Just trying to do it off the aq6 without the software, i think its to complicated for me lol


----------



## vietrice89

Could you guys help me pick out parts I would need.

I'd like to get the Aquacomputer Aquaero 6 XT to help control my pump, fans and whatever else I can.

I plan to have 9 Phanteks PH-F120MP. Do I need a addon or something to control all of these or is the unit enough?
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835709037
(You guys recommend something else?)

Aquacomputer D5 Pump?
http://www.aquatuning.us/water-cooling/pumps/d5-series/d5-pumps/13775/aquacomputer-d5-pumpenmechanik-mit-usb-und-aquabus-schnittstelle

It has a bunch of sensors on it. Which ones do you guys feel is a must have?

If I left something out just let me know.


----------



## iczerjones

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seth1969*
> 
> Just trying to do it off the aq6 without the software, i think its to complicated for me lol


I'm sure it is perfectly doable via the controller itself. I'll double check when I get home and post some steps/screens.


----------



## GTXJackBauer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seth1969*
> 
> Just trying to do it off the aq6 without the software, i think its to complicated for me lol


Yes you can as I have originally before installing the software.


----------



## Speng

If I disconnect an MPS device from my system entirely, will it indefinitely "remember" what Aquabus ID it was assigned previously or will it "forget" it after x amount of time?


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seth1969*
> 
> Just trying to do it off the aq6 without the software, i think its to complicated for me lol


It is hard but doable
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Speng*
> 
> If I disconnect an MPS device from my system entirely, will it indefinitely "remember" what Aquabus ID it was assigned previously or will it "forget" it after x amount of time?


AFAIK it will remember it


----------



## GTXJackBauer

Shoggy posted this in the AC forums.
Quote:


> The ID number is saved to the memory of the device and will stay there forever


----------



## iczerjones

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seth1969*
> 
> Just trying to do it off the aq6 without the software, i think its to complicated for me lol


From the LCD:

Menu -> Outputs -> Fans -> fan_name -> Control mode -> select your favorite mode. (PWM in this case)


----------



## Mega Man

you then still have to program the speed be it fixed or curve ect, like i said complicated


----------



## iczerjones

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> you then still have to program the speed be it fixed or curve ect, like i said complicated


I just gave that a try too. Not difficult, but yes, a total PITA for sure! It does work though. I went ahead and edited one of my existing fan curves and it worked well, but not nearly as fast and easy as using the Aquasuite interface.


----------



## Methodical

Question. I downloaded the manual and read through it, however, it doesn't really give a detailed breakdown on how this controller works; it seems that you have to have the unit in hand and do a lot of trial and error to figure things out - perhaps I'm missing something.

I'm at a point in my build that I am trying to piece together a parts list for my build, such as the number of power adjusts needed etc, but I have yet to find a single source for this data (i.e. what's needed to do this or that). Is there no white paper on this unit; there seems to be tons of things it can do? Where do you find this type of information (i.e. what you need for what?). I am ready to order, but I don't know all that is needed to do what I want as the manual is not quite detailed in that category. If there's a source, please direct me to it.

Thanks for any help.


----------



## Mega Man

there is, power adj i think it was... 30a? without HS i mean, but it all depends on the number of fans you have and their amp rating then you have to stay below 30a -

you may not need any, esp with the aquaero 6


----------



## iczerjones

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Methodical*
> 
> Question. I downloaded the manual and read through it, however, it doesn't really give a detailed breakdown on how this controller works; it seems that you have to have the unit in hand and do a lot of trial and error to figure things out - perhaps I'm missing something.
> 
> I'm at a point in my build that I am trying to piece together a parts list for my build, such as the number of power adjusts needed etc, but I have yet to find a single source for this data (i.e. what's needed to do this or that). Is there no white paper on this unit; there seems to be tons of things it can do? Where do you find this type of information (i.e. what you need for what?). I am ready to order, but I don't know all that is needed to do what I want as the manual is not quite detailed in that category. If there's a source, please direct me to it.
> 
> Thanks for any help.


The Aquaero can seem overwhelming at first and it is definitely an outrageously capable device. One of the issues I've seen with having any kind of central, all on one 'guide' to all things Aquaero is that it can do so much that it is substantially easier to cover individual tasks or goals. Could you describe some of the goals you have that you are having a hard time finding information on?

In the meantime, the manual is actually pretty useful, though more as a reference. This guide is also pretty great. Though it is for the Aquaero 5, much of the same concepts apply. There is also a substantial amount of information in IT Diva's first post in this thread. Dig around and see if it fills in the gaps.


----------



## zerophase

I managed to damage the screen of the aq 6 xt. The system won't be up and running for a few days, but I believe the rest of the aq is still running fine. Is there anyway to buy a replacement screen?


----------



## Mystriss

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zerophase*
> 
> I managed to damage the screen of the aq 6 xt. The system won't be up and running for a few days, but I believe the rest of the aq is still running fine. Is there anyway to buy a replacement screen?


There is indeed!

http://www.performance-pcs.com/aquacomputer-replacement-front-in-new-design-for-aquaero-5-and-6-xt-blue-leds.html
http://www.performance-pcs.com/aquacomputer-replacement-front-in-new-design-for-aquaero-5-and-6-xt.html (stock color leds)


----------



## Mega Man

direct from shoggy

That isn't the lcd


----------



## Methodical

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iczerjones*
> 
> The Aquaero can seem overwhelming at first and it is definitely an outrageously capable device. One of the issues I've seen with having any kind of central, all on one 'guide' to all things Aquaero is that it can do so much that it is substantially easier to cover individual tasks or goals. Could you describe some of the goals you have that you are having a hard time finding information on?
> 
> In the meantime, the manual is actually pretty useful, though more as a reference. This guide is also pretty great. Though it is for the Aquaero 5, much of the same concepts apply. There is also a substantial amount of information in IT Diva's first post in this thread. Dig around and see if it fills in the gaps.


Thanks for the taking the time to respond.

I did check some of the links that folks posted on that 1st page, although some no longer works, but I found a This Guide that actually tied back to one of the links on the 1st page that is pretty helpful. I will revisit some of the others, too.

Just so you know, I am not too concerned with the actual software settings, such as fan/temp curves etc. at this time. I am trying to decipher what components I need to get what I want out the system. I am building a dual loop system where I want to control both loops independently of each other. The pumps will be housed in the bottom chamber of the STH10. It's my understanding that this is possible, but I need 2x Poweradjust (PA). With that understanding, below is what I think I need and what I understand about the system. Below are my thoughts/questions, but please correct me if I am heading down the wrong road. Along with the PA, I should get:

1. Either the Aquacomputer D5 with rpm signal or Laing DDC pumps. Which is the preferred of the 2?
2. Can I get by with 1 PA for one pump and let the Aquaero control the other?
3. Or as an alternative, should I go with the Aquacomputer D5 pump with USB/aquabus interface with the PA for this setup?
4. Aquacomputer mounting plate for PA3.

Questions:

1. Can I adjust the D5 rpms via the Aquaero software?
2. What is the benefit of the Aquacomputer USB/aquabus pump vs. the D5 with rpm pump?
3. If I were to use the Aquacomputer USB/aquabus pump, how do I hook up 2 pumps to the main controller since it only has 1x aquabus high connection?

Again thanks. I am going visit the link above which has some good information.


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Methodical*
> 
> Thanks for the taking the time to respond.
> 
> I did check some of the links that folks posted on that 1st page, although some no longer works, but I found a This Guide that actually tied back to one of the links on the 1st page that is pretty helpful. I will revisit some of the others, too.
> 
> Just so you know, I am not too concerned with the actual software settings, such as fan/temp curves etc. at this time. I am trying to decipher what components I need to get what I want out the system. I am building a dual loop system where I want to control both loops independently of each other. The pumps will be housed in the bottom chamber of the STH10. It's my understanding that this is possible, but I need 2x Poweradjust (PA). With that understanding, below is what I think I need and what I understand about the system. Below are my thoughts/questions, but please correct me if I am heading down the wrong road. Along with the PA, I should get:
> 
> 1. Either the Aquacomputer D5 with rpm signal or Laing DDC pumps. Which is the preferred of the 2? personal choice
> 2. Can I get by with 1 PA for one pump and let the Aquaero control the other? you could do this
> 3. Or as an alternative, should I go with the Aquacomputer D5 pump with USB/aquabus interface with the PA for this setup? if you use the USB/Aquabus pumps you will get power from the PSU so dont need a PA then.
> 4. Aquacomputer mounting plate for PA3. this is nice to have if you have and are going to use PA's. or you can use stand offs and mount them any where up to you..
> 
> Questions:
> 
> 1. Can I adjust the D5 rpms via the Aquaero software? Yes you can
> 2. What is the benefit of the Aquacomputer USB/aquabus pump vs. the D5 with rpm pump? With the USB/Aquabus you can control the speed of the pump with out using a Fan Header or a PA.
> 3. If I were to use the Aquacomputer USB/aquabus pump, how do I hook up 2 pumps to the main controller since it only has 1x aquabus high connection? You an hook up 4 MIPS devices and you would just use a splitter or something like this to join the aquabus signal and assign each one with the USB a address.
> 
> Again thanks. I am going visit the link above which has some good information.


See answers above in Green...

Why do you want to control the speed of the pumps? to me the pump speeding up and slowing down creates more noise than fans IMHO better to set pumps and forget them...


----------



## seross69

what color is the back light in the standard 6 Pro?? is it red??


----------



## Mega Man

I think they are white, the leds on the front are red, I don't think they made a blue version of the pro


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> I think they are white, the leds on the front are red, I don't think they made a blue version of the pro


Thanks I have 2 and can not remember what color they are. hope it is red..


----------



## iczerjones

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> See answers above in Green...
> 
> Why do you want to control the speed of the pumps? to me the pump speeding up and slowing down creates more noise than fans IMHO better to set pumps and forget them...


Thanks for answering those. To OP, I tend to agree with seross69 about setting the pump and forgetting it, but if you desire a software controllable pump, go for the Aquacomputer D5. The standard PWM pumps will require a modification to work with Aquaero. (look here)


----------



## Methodical

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> See answers above in Green...
> 
> Why do you want to control the speed of the pumps? to me the pump speeding up and slowing down creates more noise than fans IMHO better to set pumps and forget them...


Thanks for the enlightenment. Actually, I don't want to have the pump moving as the temps change. That's what I am trying to get away from as my current system, fan and pump, are pwm controlled and moves with the temperature, which I don't like. I was inquiring about making rpm adjustments because I plan to have the pumps at the bottom chamber of the case and would not have easy access to the speed control (if I go with the rpm version), if I desired to change them as I tune the system.

So for me the pwm controlled pump is out. I will have to decided on either the Aquacomputer USB/aquabus pump or the D5 with rpm pump?

Question. In one of your response, you stated to use a splitter to connect 2x Aquacomputer USB/aquabus pump to the controller, if I do that don't I lose the ability to control each pump individually?

Again thanks


----------



## Mega Man

You can force pwm pumps to stay at a specific speed, you need to connect the aquabus USB pumps some how, either USB or aquabus.


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Methodical*
> 
> Thanks for the enlightenment. Actually, I don't want to have the pump moving as the temps change. That's what I am trying to get away from as my current system, fan and pump, are pwm controlled and moves with the temperature, which I don't like. I was inquiring about making rpm adjustments because I plan to have the pumps at the bottom chamber of the case and would not have easy access to the speed control (if I go with the rpm version), if I desired to change them as I tune the system.
> 
> So for me the pwm controlled pump is out. I will have to decided on either the Aquacomputer USB/aquabus pump or the D5 with rpm pump?
> 
> Question. In one of your response, you stated to use a splitter to connect 2x Aquacomputer USB/aquabus pump to the controller, if I do that don't I lose the ability to control each pump individually?
> 
> Again thanks


No the aquabus is what you can use a splitter for and each item has a unique address.. I had 6 PA's and 4 pumps hooked to the aqua bus using a splitter and no problems with getting info and giving commands to each item.

best way to descripe it is it is like a network and sends and receives info from each address and the others just ignore it unless it has the correct address.


----------



## elderan

When I go in my aquasuite and I try and import my external sensor I am not seeing AIDA64 as a option. I see Open Hardware Monitor though. I am using 2016-2.

Any ideas?


----------



## iczerjones

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *elderan*
> 
> When I go in my aquasuite and I try and import my external sensor I am not seeing AIDA64 as a option. I see Open Hardware Monitor though. I am using 2016-2.
> 
> Any ideas?


Did you set up the 'external applications' sensor selection in AIDA64? Once that is done, you should be able to 'see' the selected sensors in Aquasuite. (available for selection as a software sensor source)


----------



## elderan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iczerjones*
> 
> Did you set up the 'external applications' sensor selection in AIDA64? Once that is done, you should be able to 'see' the selected sensors in Aquasuite. (available for selection as a software sensor source)


That was it, thanks!


----------



## ruffhi

I have a question about my pumps. I will be putting two pumps in series and I wanted to isolate them from the case. I've got a CaseLabs 120.2 Accessory Mount as well as two Alphacool Decoupling Kits, a single 120 mount for one of the pumps (the one on the left below) and some 20mm stand-offs.

I'll be setting up my pumps to face each other (see picture). This picture shows the pump headers (no pumps yet) connected via a fixed Barrow fitting. That connection could also be via soft tubing. The outlet port (right) is offset 20mm up and to the right of the inlet port ... so the pump on the left is raised 20mm.










As I see it, I have two options to isolate them.

*Option A*

The 120.2 accessory mount (pink box) is fixed to the case. The pump on the left uses the decouplers (red box) and is isolated (all by itself). The pump on the right also has some decouplers but they are attached to the 120.1 plate that is sitting on the 20mm stand-offs (green box). Again, the pump on the right is isolated (all by itself).










*Option B*

In this option, the 120.2 accessory mount (pink box) is attached to the case by both sets of decouplers (red) with the pump on the right fixed to it and the pump on the left attached to the 120.2 via the stand-offs (green). The pumps are isolated from the balance of the case (and other goodies) but they are _not_ isolated from each other.










Which is better? Option A or B? Should I isolate the pumps from each other ... or does it not matter? I think that is the fundamental question.


----------



## Methodical

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iczerjones*
> 
> Thanks for answering those. To OP, I tend to agree with seross69 about setting the pump and forgetting it, but if you desire a software controllable pump, go for the Aquacomputer D5. The standard PWM pumps will require a modification to work with Aquaero. (look here)


We are on the same page. I want to set the pump and forget about it.


----------



## Methodical

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ruffhi*
> 
> I have a question about my pumps. I will be putting two pumps in series and I wanted to isolate them from the case. I've got a CaseLabs 120.2 Accessory Mount as well as two Alphacool Decoupling Kits, a single 120 mount for one of the pumps (the one on the left below) and some 20mm stand-offs...


Those plates are a grand idea, just what I may need myself. Here are some Grommets that may help reduce some vibration between the case and the plates or other areas.


----------



## iBruce

@ruffhi

answering a D5 isolation question in the Aquaero thread, ok.









What energy absorption material to use will depend if you want to reduce the vibration noise to a certain degree or eliminate it completely, two very different approaches.

Small rubber grommets will do little to isolate the noise energy created by dual D5s, even at 25%-35% power they will produce a low frequency rumble.

If you want the grass growing outside to be louder at your normal sitting distance than your dual-pump assembly running at 40%, then I can help you do that. It's not very expensive.

Maybe we can discuss it in your build thread instead of here.

Some links to get you started. Of course there's always the black Shoggy sandwich you could get two of those and some scissors if you want an easy solution, but the material below works 100% better and looks much nicer than a black kitchen sponge inside your rig, but that's an aesthetic thing for you to decide yourself.

http://www.sorbothane.com/

http://www.isolateit.com/

This is the D5 isolation I'm working on currently. It will be inaudible up to 50% power guaranteed, but it's only a single pump, two D5s raises the bar more than slightly.

http://s296.photobucket.com/user/iBruceEVGA/media/IMG_5335_zpssvqwxnmq.jpg.html

http://s296.photobucket.com/user/iBruceEVGA/media/IMG_5341_zpsuyaamrwv.jpg.html


----------



## ruffhi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iBruce*
> 
> @ruffhi
> 
> answering a D5 isolation question in the Aquaero thread, ok.


These guys in here are crazy (in a good way) about their pumps and I was pretty confident some would have an opinion.

I am currently leaning towards the Aquacomputer D5 Pump Mechanics with RPM Signal ... the one with the little red dial that you use to control the pump speed. I will end up in the 'set the speed and forget it' camp with the future Aquaero controlling the fan speed to adjust the temps.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iBruce*
> Some links to get you started. Of course there's always the black Shoggy sandwich you could get two of those and some scissors if you want an easy solution, but the material below works 100% better and looks much nicer than a black kitchen sponge inside your rig, but that's an aesthetic thing for you to decide yourself.
> 
> http://www.sorbothane.com/
> http://www.isolateit.com/


Thanks for the links. I'll read up on this.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iBruce*
> Maybe we can discuss it in your build thread instead of here.


I will be summarizing this discussion in my thread. But I get more initial traction he more focused threads.


----------



## iBruce

^^^^

If a set and forget D5 is what you want that's fine, what I have found is each assembly produces an individual noise character or fingerprint, varies from build to build, sometimes 30% pwr is louder than 35% pwr and sometimes 37% is the real silent sweetspot, so if you want to be able to "dial in" the most comfortable noise characteristic or complete inaudibility, I would go with an AquaComputer D5 with the ability to vary the rotational speed, via software or motherboard control.

The slightly more expensive AquaComputer USB controlled D5 can run from the AquaSuite software as a stand-alone (connects directly to your motherboard), you don't need an Aquaero 6 in order to vary the speed.

And the AquaComputer D5 PWM pretty sure you can vary the rpms with a mobo header or a cheap $5 PWM controller, Zalman makes one.

The PWM variant is slightly cheaper, you can save 4cents, (links below).









Just saying, I know so many enthusiasts who go with the D5-Vario and later find it very difficult to access the little red rheostat dial since they have it mounted so close to their chassis floor and cannot get to it.

I'd think about at least the PWM variant, I have both the AC USB and PWM, and I like fiddling with pump speeds.









http://www.performance-pcs.com/aquacomputer-d5-pump-motor-with-pwm-input-and-speed-signal.html

http://www.performance-pcs.com/aquacomputer-d5-pump-mechanics-with-rpm-signal.html


----------



## Methodical

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> No the aquabus is what you can use a splitter for and each item has a unique address.. I had 6 PA's and 4 pumps hooked to the aqua bus using a splitter and no problems with getting info and giving commands to each item.
> 
> best way to descripe it is it is like a network and sends and receives info from each address and the others just ignore it unless it has the correct address.


Ahh ok. I need to do some deeper reading on the 2 pumps that I am considering.


----------



## Methodical

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iBruce*
> 
> ^^^^
> 
> If a set and forget D5 is what you want that's fine, what I have found is each assembly produces an individual noise character or fingerprint, varies from build to build, sometimes 30% pwr is louder than 35% pwr and sometimes 37% is the real silent sweetspot, so if you want to be able to "dial in" the most comfortable noise characteristic or complete inaudibility, I would go with an AquaComputer D5 with the ability to vary the rotational speed, via software or motherboard control.
> 
> Is this the D5 pump you're referring to or is it the PWM version?
> 
> The slightly more expensive AquaComputer USB controlled D5 can run from the AquaSuite software as a stand-alone (connects directly to your motherboard), you don't need an Aquaero 6 in order to vary the speed.
> 
> Good to know. I do need the AQ6 for other things I want to control, such as the pwm fans and possibly some other things, too.
> 
> And the AquaComputer D5 PWM pretty sure you can vary the rpms with a mobo header or a cheap $5 PWM controller, Zalman makes one.
> 
> The PWM variant is slightly cheaper, you can save 4cents, (links below).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just saying, I know so many enthusiasts who go with the D5-Vario and later find it very difficult to access the little red rheostat dial since they have it mounted so close to their chassis floor and cannot get to it.
> 
> This is exactly why I wanted to know if I can change this pump's rpm speed via the software because the plan is to mount the pumps at the bottom of the case where I can't access it.
> 
> I'd think about at least the PWM variant, I have both the AC USB and PWM, and I like fiddling with pump speeds.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I do have those pumps in my wishlist, just trying to figure out which will be best for my build - getting there
> 
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/aquacomputer-d5-pump-motor-with-pwm-input-and-speed-signal.html
> 
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/aquacomputer-d5-pump-mechanics-with-rpm-signal.html


Thanks for your input, much obliged.


----------



## iBruce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Methodical*
> 
> Thanks for your input, much obliged.


Sorry for the confusion this pump listed below I would NOT recommend if you want to fine tune or "dial in" the best possible D5 sonics, (they will vary from build to build) or the lowest noise, or are trying to achieve inaudibility with your rig. Access to the small red rheostat can be difficult and fine incremental tuning ie 30%pwr to 32%pwr is difficult to impossible.

http://www.performance-pcs.com/aquacomputer-d5-pump-mechanics-with-rpm-signal.html

I would choose either the AC D5 PWM and use and Aquaero 6 (for software control) or a PWM header or a separate PWM single channel controller Zalman makes one for around five dollars or eight dollars if you're on a budget. The AC D5 PWM is basically the same cost as the D5 Vario above, only a few cents difference.

OR use the AquaComputer D5 USB it connects directly to your mobo via USB and you can vary the rpms with the AquaSuite software with (or without) and Aquaero.

Both these D5s below I highly recommend for a silent to inaudible build.

http://www.performance-pcs.com/aquacomputer-d5-pump-motor-with-pwm-input-and-speed-signal.html

http://www.performance-pcs.com/aquacomputer-d5-pump-mechanics-with-usb-and-aquabus-interface.html


----------



## RDKing2

The first and second pumps you listed are really identical except the first has the rheostat. From the description on the first pump "Speed and hence flow rate can be set via a turning knob or via the *input voltage*. A speed signal for monitoring of the pump's functionality is also available for your needs" I have two of the ones with the rheostat hooked up to PA2's. Just set the dial at the highest position and voltage control them. I leave them at full speed all the time anyways, the PA mainly is for monitoring and leaving the A6 fan headers available. If doing it again I would just use the USB/aquabus version.


----------



## iczerjones

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iBruce*
> 
> ^^^^
> 
> If a set and forget D5 is what you want that's fine, what I have found is each assembly produces an individual noise character or fingerprint, varies from build to build, sometimes 30% pwr is louder than 35% pwr and sometimes 37% is the real silent sweetspot, so if you want to be able to "dial in" the most comfortable noise characteristic or complete inaudibility, I would go with an AquaComputer D5 with the ability to vary the rotational speed, via software or motherboard control.


^^^^^
Soooo much this! Of my pair of D5 Varios (one 8 year old Swiftech MCP655 and one EK (Lowra) purchased about 6 months ago), one is near silent across the entire speed range except for ~15% speed, while the other is a banshee at 60-65% speed, but silent above and below that. I end up running them a little imbalanced with one at speed 4 and the other at speed 3.5-ish to achieve my flow goals while staying silent.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Methodical*
> 
> We are on the same page. I want to set the pump and forget about it.


If so, consider some Varios. Usually saves a few bucks and takes them completely out of the equation for your Aquaero setup. (though nothing wrong with having some PWM models and just setting them either - at least then you have the option to adjust without breaking out a flathead)


----------



## iBruce

OH MY!

I just now discovered the newest version of AquaSuite, guess I'm late to the party.









This screenshot is my older Aquaero 6 XT from 2013, using in the test bench with only 3 banks of fans.

Channel 1: Three Sanyo Denki 9S1212M4011s Silent Type S 120mm superfans for the 360mm radiator
Channel 2: One Sanyo Denki same as above as rear exhaust
Channel 3: not hooked up at the moment was using that channel for testing new fan banks ie the two eLoop 140mm PWMs, but normaly I have three Vardar 120 ER PWMs on that channel pushing slow cold air over the M5E mobo VRM, it just looks so darn cool.

I want to import the pump information onto this page for a custom page, tried three times and all the elements from the pump page overlap as individual elements and cannot pick them apart. Is there a keyboard function I need to drag the entire page once imported??? I'm lost, but love the new update.

SignalKuppfe Hmmmmpf, I'm staying with AquaComputer for system control, anyone that picks out all their components from a single brand (or tries to) is not having all the fun, if you ask me.









I Love Aquaero 6. I do have a 2nd Aquaero 6 for the new rig using internally as an LT mounted in the midchassis bay.

So if this page looks rough and incomplete, that's because it is, I'm trying to figure out how to select entire groups of information within pages and move without the dreaded overlapping of individual elements, which is a bit frustrating...

http://s296.photobucket.com/user/iBruceEVGA/media/aquasuite_zpso5gzvbcs.jpg.html

This is the bank of Vardar 120ERs I normally run on channel 3, mounted on an external 360mm rad mount they just look so darn cool.









Notice the very old mobo M5E and memory Dominator GT from 2012, still going strong as a 2ndary rig, running an Aquaero 6 XT from 2012 with updated blue led front panel, AquaComputer D5 USB pump, and three AquaComputer inline thermal sensors, below (second pic) one of the sensors at the pump output port.

I'm not certain why some enthusiasts try to build custom water with only one brand, simplicity? When you do that you miss out on the real greatness each brand has to offer. just my humble opinion.









AquaComputer parts and EK parts play very nicely with one another, has been my experience.


----------



## Methodical

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iBruce*
> 
> Sorry for the confusion this pump listed below I would NOT recommend if you want to fine tune or "dial in" the best possible D5 sonics, (they will vary from build to build) or the lowest noise, or are trying to achieve inaudibility with your rig. Access to the small red rheostat can be difficult and fine incremental tuning ie 30%pwr to 32%pwr is difficult to impossible.
> 
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/aquacomputer-d5-pump-mechanics-with-rpm-signal.html
> 
> I would choose either the AC D5 PWM and use and Aquaero 6 (for software control) or a PWM header or a separate PWM single channel controller Zalman makes one for around five dollars or eight dollars if you're on a budget. The AC D5 PWM is basically the same cost as the D5 Vario above, only a few cents difference.
> 
> OR use the AquaComputer D5 USB it connects directly to your mobo via USB and you can vary the rpms with the AquaSuite software with (or without) and Aquaero.
> 
> Both these D5s below I highly recommend for a silent to inaudible build.
> 
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/aquacomputer-d5-pump-motor-with-pwm-input-and-speed-signal.html
> 
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/aquacomputer-d5-pump-mechanics-with-usb-and-aquabus-interface.html
> 
> Thanks. I understand now. I really don't want to have to fool around with the speed switch under the pump because I most likely won't have access to them.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RDKing2*
> 
> The first and second pumps you listed are really identical except the first has the rheostat. From the description on the first pump "Speed and hence flow rate can be set via a turning knob or via the *input voltage*. A speed signal for monitoring of the pump's functionality is also available for your needs" I have two of the ones with the rheostat hooked up to PA2's. Just set the dial at the highest position and voltage control them. I leave them at full speed all the time anyways, the PA mainly is for monitoring and leaving the A6 fan headers available. If doing it again I would just use the USB/aquabus version.
> 
> Interesting. So, if I use the PWM pumps, I'd have to use 2 of the fan headers on the AQ6 to control the pumps, correct? However, If I use the Aquabus/usb versions, I can use either the usb on the MB or the Aquabus connector on the AQ6 to control them and free up my fan controllers, correct? If I use the D5 with rpm, I will need a PA to free up the fan headers on the AQ6 and for monitoring, but I can use the fan headers on the AQ6 to run this pump if choose too, correct ( assume monitoring will be via AQ6)? Here's the missing piece of the puzzle for me. How would you control the input voltage on the D5 with rpm pump? Is it via the AQ6 controller or some other means? I need to have at least 2 fan headers to control the pwm fans on the radiators, so it seems either setup would allow this.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iczerjones*
> 
> ^^^^^
> Soooo much this! Of my pair of D5 Varios (one 8 year old Swiftech MCP655 and one EK (Lowra) purchased about 6 months ago), one is near silent across the entire speed range except for ~15% speed, while the other is a banshee at 60-65% speed, but silent above and below that. I end up running them a little imbalanced with one at speed 4 and the other at speed 3.5-ish to achieve my flow goals while staying silent.
> If so, consider some Varios. Usually saves a few bucks and takes them completely out of the equation for your Aquaero setup. (though nothing wrong with having some PWM models and just setting them either - at least then you have the option to adjust without breaking out a flathead)
> 
> I most likely won't have access to the pump adjustments, which is limiting my choices. Also, D5 with rpm and pwm pumps are the same price at PCP, so if the pwm would make like easier, I would have to move that direction.


Now that I am better educated on how all this works, I am in a better position to make an informed decision on which pump will be best for my setup, with exception to the "missing piece of the puzzle" question I have about "voltage control" of the D5 with rpm pump above. My decision on a pump will come down to the most efficient controlling capabilities (i.e easiest way to control the pumps).

Thanks again everyone for enlightening me. I truly appreciate it...Al


----------



## iBruce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Methodical*
> 
> Now that I am better educated on how all this works, I am in a better position to make an informed decision on which pump will be best for my setup, with exception to the "missing piece of the puzzle" question I have about "voltage control" of the D5 with rpm pump above. My decision on a pump will come down to the most efficient controlling capabilities (i.e easiest way to control the pumps).
> 
> Thanks again everyone for enlightening me. I truly appreciate it...Al












PM me if you need some help walking you through D5 isolation deciding on parts or have any extra questions.









The AC D5 Vario and D5 PWM are the same price, so if low noise (or no noise) is important I'd always go with the PWM variant.

Not certain why enthusiasts buy the D5 Varios here in 2016 (with or without an Aquaero), if set and forget is their argument, you can just as easily set and forget the AquaComputer PWM D5 pump.

.


----------



## iBruce

My new AquaComputer gear for the new 6700K/M8E inaudible rig, guess I'm a very happy and extremely satisfied AquaComputer repeat customer.









...sorry for the double post, forgot I responded to Methodical while constructing this post in the background. D'OH









http://www.performance-pcs.com/aquacomputer-aquaero-6-xt-blue-usb-fan-controller-graphic-lcd-touch-control-ir-remote-control.html

http://www.performance-pcs.com/aquacomputer-passive-heatsink-for-aquaero-6-black.html

http://www.performance-pcs.com/aquacomputer-poweradjust-3-usb-ultra-series.html

http://www.performance-pcs.com/aquacomputer-passive-heat-sink-for-poweradjust-3-black.html

http://www.performance-pcs.com/aquacomputer-d5-pump-motor-with-pwm-input-and-speed-signal.html



http://s296.photobucket.com/user/iBruceEVGA/media/IMG_4040_zps2kf1gghn.jpg.html


----------



## RDKing2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iBruce*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> PM me if you need some help walking you through D5 isolation deciding on parts or have any extra questions.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The AC D5 Vario and D5 PWM are the same price, so if low noise (or no noise) is important I'd always go with the PWM variant.
> 
> Not certain why enthusiasts buy the D5 Varios here in 2016 (with or without an Aquaero), if set and forget is their argument, you can just as easily set and forget the AquaComputer PWM D5 pump.
> 
> .


I did not want to use a fan header on the A6 for my pump(s) I saw that some pumps default to about 60% speed when not supplied with a pwm signal. The pump dos not need to be adjusted very much but for bleeding, testing, etc control is nice. You could always get a vario and hook it straight to the powe supply. Again monitoring via Aquasuite was my main purpose for using the PA2's. You can have all the control ever needed with the usb/aquabus version with or without the A6 and it uses no fan headers, I would use them if doing it again.


----------



## iBruce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RDKing2*
> 
> I did not want to use a fan header on the A6 for my pump(s) I saw that some pumps default to about 60% speed when not supplied with a pwm signal. The pump dos not need to be adjusted very much but for bleeding, testing, etc control is nice. You could always get a vario and hook it straight to the powe supply. Again monitoring via Aquasuite was my main purpose for using the PA2's. You can have all the control ever needed with the usb/aquabus version with or without the A6 and it uses no fan headers, I would use them if doing it again.


Ok, very good point.

You can also pre-configure an Aquaero 6's PWM channel output to PWM D5 on a separate working rig to set up an ideal PWM signal for bleeding a new rig, new pump, and override the pumps PWM default speed.

you heard 60%pwr on some PWM D5s? I heard some were as low as 20%pwr, way too low for bleeding I would think.

I set up the new A6 at channel 4 PWM 40% to bleed the new loop, 40% seems ideal for bleeding a short loop, in short bursts.

.


----------



## Methodical

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iBruce*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> PM me if you need some help walking you through D5 isolation deciding on parts or have any extra questions.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks. Will do.
> 
> The AC D5 Vario and D5 PWM are the same price, so if low noise (or no noise) is important I'd always go with the PWM variant.
> 
> Not certain why enthusiasts buy the D5 Varios here in 2016 (with or without an Aquaero), if set and forget is their argument, you can just as easily set and forget the AquaComputer PWM D5 pump.
> 
> I was thinking just as you said - the pwm seems to be the better of the 2.
> 
> .


Thanks for the offer. I am at the stage of my build where I need to start procuring all the water cooling parts and the AQ6 setup was stumping me.


----------



## Methodical

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RDKing2*
> 
> ...You can have all the control ever needed with the usb/aquabus version with or without the A6 and it uses no fan headers, I would use them if doing it again.


Based on what you'll have told me, this is why I am leaning toward this pump. I may need all of those fan headers on the AQ6. Also, I won't need to get any PAs, mounting plate or need any additional power supply, so the cost will be lower and so will the wiring requirements.


----------



## RDKing2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iBruce*
> 
> Ok, very good point.
> 
> You can also pre-configure an Aquaero 6's PWM channel output to PWM D5 on a separate working rig to set up an ideal PWM signal for bleeding a new rig, new pump, and override the pumps PWM default speed.
> 
> you heard 60%pwr on some PWM D5s? I heard some were as low as 20%pwr, way too low for bleeding I would think.
> 
> I set up the new A6 at channel 4 PWM 40% to bleed the new loop, 40% seems ideal for bleeding a short loop, in short bursts.
> 
> .


May be lower I do not have any personal experience with the pwm pumps. With a Monsta 560 in P/P, monsta 280 in P/P and a 280x60mm in push + case fans all headers are in use. Will be adding two more Monsta 480's in P/P with my re-vamp. Will swap it all to a CaseLabs tower when the Pascal Titans are out. I definitely need all the pwm headers for fans. The pwm signal from each header can get weak with to many devices on it. Really hoping for a pwm PA to be released. But Shoggy had said no plans in the near future.


----------



## InfoSeeker

aquasuite 2016-3 goes live


----------



## iBruce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RDKing2*
> 
> May be lower I do not have any personal experience with the pwm pumps. With a Monsta 560 in P/P, monsta 280 in P/P and a 280x60mm in push + case fans all headers are in use. Will be adding two more Monsta 480's in P/P with my re-vamp. Will swap it all to a CaseLabs tower when the Pascal Titans are out. I definitely need all the pwm headers for fans. The pwm signal from each header can get weak with to many devices on it. Really hoping for a pwm PA to be released. But Shoggy had said no plans in the near future.


I'll be first in line for that PA3U PWM module.









What was wrong with AquaSuite 2015-2? Only installed it yesterday, looks amazing...


----------



## jsutter71

I realize that this question has been previously answered on this forum so I apologize for asking again. On my 6XT the glass cover became lose while I was cleaning, What is the best way to reattach. Also this is a two part question. What is the best way to replace the bezel. I'm going from silver to black. I was to afraid to break the glass so I just removed the front screws, placed the black bezel over the silver, and then screwed back in. Is their a better option?
Thank you.


----------



## Costas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jsutter71*
> 
> I realize that this question has been previously answered on this forum so I apologize for asking again. On my 6XT the glass cover became lose while I was cleaning, What is the best way to reattach. Also this is a two part question. What is the best way to replace the bezel. I'm going from silver to black. I was to afraid to break the glass so I just removed the front screws, placed the black bezel over the silver, and then screwed back in. Is their a better option?
> Thank you.


To replace the silver bezel/frame you need to undo the 4 front screws and then carefully separate/pry the bezel away from the display board. It is actually glued onto the display board with a weak adhesive.

As far as the front window is concerned, I have used a small amount of clear silicone sealant (neutral cure) around the very edge of the plastic window. Just need a few spots of sealant here and there to keep it in place ie. you don't need to run a complete bead around the full perimeter of the window - I mainly use one or two spots near the centre and another one or two at the 1/3 & 2/3 distances. Use some tape to hold the window down while the sealant cures.


----------



## vietrice89

I got the aquareo 6xt. It say each fan channel has 30v. Does that mean I can put a 3 way fan splitter on it to 3 12v fans and it will out put max 10v to each? They're NB eloop 12-2.

I have a total of 9 nb eloops 12-2 and 1 phantech 200mm what would be the best way to set this up?


----------



## iczerjones

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vietrice89*
> 
> I got the aquareo 6xt. It say each fan channel has 30v. Does that mean I can put a 3 way fan splitter on it to 3 12v fans and it will out put max 10v to each? They're NB eloop 12-2.
> 
> I have a total of 9 nb eloops 12-2 and 1 phantech 200mm what would be the best way to set this up?


That would be 30W, (watts) not V (volts). Each header supplies 2.5A @ 12V, giving you a total of 30W of available power for fans or devices. If you look at the spec for the fans you are looking to use you can see the maximum power draw, then just be sure to stay under that. All connected fans will have access to the same 12V voltage and the PWM signal, or if you choose, a voltage value of your choice using direct DC voltage control in lieu of PWM.

In the case of your B12-2 eLoops, the maximum power draw is 0.85W per fan. (datasheet) Therefore, you could easily run all 9 of them on a single channel as that would only use, at most, 7.65W of the 30W max for the channel.


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vietrice89*
> 
> I got the aquareo 6xt. It say each fan channel has 30v. Does that mean I can put a 3 way fan splitter on it to 3 12v fans and it will out put max 10v to each? They're NB eloop 12-2.
> 
> I have a total of 9 nb eloops 12-2 and 1 phantech 200mm what would be the best way to set this up?


I think you read wrong as each channel has 12v and 30 watts. You could run the 9 eloops off one channel and the 200 mm off another!!


----------



## vietrice89

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> I think you read wrong as each channel has 12v and 30 watts. You could run the 9 eloops off one channel and the 200 mm off another!!


do they even make 9 way splitters?

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iczerjones*
> 
> That would be 30W, (watts) not V (volts). Each header supplies 2.5A @ 12V, giving you a total of 30W of available power for fans or devices. If you look at the spec for the fans you are looking to use you can see the maximum power draw, then just be sure to stay under that. All connected fans will have access to the same 12V voltage and the PWM signal, or if you choose, a voltage value of your choice using direct DC voltage control in lieu of PWM.
> 
> In the case of your B12-2 eLoops, the maximum power draw is 0.85W per fan. (datasheet) Therefore, you could easily run all 9 of them on a single channel as that would only use, at most, 7.65W of the 30W max for the channel.


Oh man that's for correcting me! Embarassing LOL


----------



## iczerjones

No worries - the Aquaero has a crazy pile of specs, easy to overlook.

As for the 9-way splitters, sure. Take a look over at modmymods or your favorite store. Plenty out there to fit your needs. I personally just build my own either from a bare breadboard or even a terminal block for easy upgrades and replacements.


----------



## vietrice89

What other things would you guys recommend getting accessories wise. I got 2-3 temperature sensors so far. Have left over money in the budget but im not sure whats good.


----------



## GTXJackBauer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vietrice89*
> 
> What other things would you guys recommend getting accessories wise. I got 2-3 temperature sensors so far. Have left over money in the budget but im not sure whats good.


Make sure if you do purchase the D5 PWM pumps, you go with one of theirs. DDCs you could purchase 3rd party but not the D5s PWM version. I would advise going with the USB/Aquabus versions leaving you with open fan headers but that is up to you on how you want to go on with this.


----------



## Artah

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vietrice89*
> 
> What other things would you guys recommend getting accessories wise. I got 2-3 temperature sensors so far. Have left over money in the budget but im not sure whats good.


If you didn't get an RGB single LED it's kind of nice to have it change colors based on temperature. The relay/pwm signal connectors are nice if you want to control something inside your case like a fluorescent light or something like that. The real time clock is cool if you want to have the thing act as a clock for you. I always buy the passive heat sink just in case I want to put something heavy on the controller but so far I have been using PWM devices including pump that doesn't draw much power from the controller.


----------



## Artah

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GTXJackBauer*
> 
> Make sure if you do purchase the D5 PWM pumps, you go with one of theirs. DDCs you could purchase 3rd party but not the D5s PWM version. I would advise going with the USB/Aquabus versions leaving you with open fan headers but that is up to you on how you want to go on with this.


If you do get their d5 PWM pump try not to buy it directly, instead find one that will take returns if the thing is defective. I have had a really bad experience with this. Basically I bought a pump, it was clearly defective since a new one I bought acted very differently and worked perfectly and still does for many months now. So the first pump I bought would not always spin even with at full speed settings, no it was not an air lock issue at all. I had to send the pump back to Germany and when they got it, they blamed me for physically crushing the capacitor inside the pump since they found traces of the liquid that leaked into the pump, no I did not try a submerged operation. I would never buy directly from them ever again but I still love the AQ controllers, still one of the best out there imho.

Basically I paid 10% of my sanity, almost $100 for the pump, about $20 for returning it to Germany which took way over a month and at the end I had to tell them to keep the pump when I told them that I didn't want it back.


----------



## GTXJackBauer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Artah*
> 
> If you do get their d5 PWM pump try not to buy it directly, instead find one that will take returns if the thing is defective. I have had a really bad experience with this. Basically I bought a pump, it was clearly defective since a new one I bought acted very differently and worked perfectly and still does for many months now. So the first pump I bought would not always spin even with at full speed settings, no it was not an air lock issue at all. I had to send the pump back to Germany and when they got it, they blamed me for physically crushing the capacitor inside the pump since they found traces of the liquid that leaked into the pump, no I did not try a submerged operation. I would never buy directly from them ever again but I still love the AQ controllers, still one of the best out there imho.
> 
> Basically I paid 10% of my sanity, almost $100 for the pump, about $20 for returning it to Germany which took way over a month and at the end I had to tell them to keep the pump when I told them that I didn't want it back.


I've talked to them countless times so I can say from personal experiences and having issues with my AQ 6, they went beyond to fix my issues. It doesn't seem like they would pull the rug under you just like that. They are smart guys and will do anything for their customers. It is possible you had a leak and either won't admit to it or never saw it before it dried up. Idk, I wasn't there but I have to defend them because they've helped me out graciously and I'm sure many others.


----------



## vietrice89

I got the USB/Aquabus versions and the passive heatsink. Guess for me that waterblock addon would be for looks huh? What about the flow sensors and what not? Those any good?


----------



## Artah

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GTXJackBauer*
> 
> I've talked to them countless times so I can say from personal experiences and having issues with my AQ 6, they went beyond to fix my issues. It doesn't seem like they would pull the rug under you just like that. They are smart guys and will do anything for their customers. It is possible you had a leak and either won't admit to it or never saw it before it dried up. Idk, I wasn't there but I have to defend them because they've helped me out graciously and I'm sure many others.


I'm glad that you had good experience with them and I'm sure majority of the people have had good experiences with them but the pump was acting exactly the same the whole time including the time when I dry tested it for a few seconds when I got it. You tell me how I got a leak doing that. I eventually installed it on a bay/res combo unit that I had to test it with water because I thought it required it. It acted exactly the same and when I would shake it lightly the pump would start. That pump and a new one that I got acted extremely different and I'm actually happy with the 2nd one that I didn't buy directly from them.

I have not been that upset for many years but I'm over it and still like their products and would definitely recommend it. Just wanted to caution people so they can at least expect it as a possibility because I was definitely blind sided with my experience and was upset enough to a point where my imagination was hovering over taking my first AQ6XT controller and smashing it with a hammer. Course I didn't do it, that would be stupidity. It was just about $120, I spend many thousands on computer hardware every year but it was the principle that was eating me alive.


----------



## Artah

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vietrice89*
> 
> I got the USB/Aquabus versions and the passive heatsink. Guess for me that waterblock addon would be for looks huh? What about the flow sensors and what not? Those any good?


I use the aquacomputer flow sensor, I love it but some think it's slightly noisy. I don't even hear it at all inside my CaseLabs Merlin SM8.


----------



## iczerjones

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vietrice89*
> 
> I got the USB/Aquabus versions and the passive heatsink. Guess for me that waterblock addon would be for looks huh? What about the flow sensors and what not? Those any good?


I agree with Artah, I also use a flow sensor (MPS400) and it works great. I can't imagine it actually adds any noise to the system given the design. Very nice tool to have and it has a temp sensor you can expose in Aquasuite as well.

Depending on what connections you need, you might want to pick up the 2-pin PWM output connectors and the 3-pin relay connector. They are like $1.50 and are useful should you need something beyond the fan, aquabus, and LED headers. I personally use one of the 2-pin PWM outputs to drive a relay and the relay to perform an emergency shutdown for my system. Very useful connections should you have the need.


----------



## Artah

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iczerjones*
> 
> I agree with Artah, I also use a flow sensor (MPS400) and it works great. I can't imagine it actually adds any noise to the system given the design. Very nice tool to have and it has a temp sensor you can expose in Aquasuite as well.
> 
> Depending on what connections you need, you might want to pick up the 2-pin PWM output connectors and the 3-pin relay connector. They are like $1.50 and are useful should you need something beyond the fan, aquabus, and LED headers. I personally use one of the 2-pin PWM outputs to drive a relay and the relay to perform an emergency shutdown for my system. Very useful connections should you have the need.


+Rep for some good additional info. I personally use the 2-pin PWM output to feed it to my motherboard since I don't use any of the motherboard fan headers, I didn't bother looking for a way to turn off the sensor on my Sabertooth X99 motherboard.


----------



## GTXJackBauer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iczerjones*
> 
> I personally use one of the 2-pin PWM outputs to drive a relay and the relay to perform an emergency shutdown for my system. Very useful connections should you have the need.


Could you explain how all that works. Is there any guides to setup this relay for emergency shutdown. Never really understood it all and don't have any electrical background so if its simple, great, if not, I'll just keep it the way it is.


----------



## iczerjones

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GTXJackBauer*
> 
> Could you explain how all that works. Is there any guides to setup this relay for emergency shutdown. Never really understood it all and don't have any electrical background so if its simple, great, if not, I'll just keep it the way it is.


It is reasonably simple. There are a few ways you can go about it, but the method I use is to have the the relay, when active, bridge the PS_ON pin to ground for a few seconds on alarm. This induces a shutdown of the system. You'll just need to set the alarm condition to provide a set active time on the relay so that the system doesn't just stay locked in the off state. You'll also want to ensure your power button can still also provide this same condition so your system works as normal. There are plenty of guides on how to accomplish this as well as ATX harnesses that can be used to easily gain access to said pins without cutting/soldering/modifying anything. If you'd like a more detailed breakdown, I'd be happy to supply it later tonight. (I have to head out to a customer meeting in a sec)


----------



## Artah

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GTXJackBauer*
> 
> Could you explain how all that works. Is there any guides to setup this relay for emergency shutdown. Never really understood it all and don't have any electrical background so if its simple, great, if not, I'll just keep it the way it is.


I tied the shutdown to when the flow meter detects very low flow instead of temperature so that way my computer doesn't shutdown when I'm messing with the GPU/CPU OC cause one time that's exactly what happened to one of my rigs







.

I used a 2pin modified Y-Cable and it was wired in parallel, I can draw it for you if you want.

1. Power switch (two pin)
2. Motherboard power switch pins (two pin)
3. Aquaero relay that's N.O. (Normally Open contact pair).

from there I just programmed the Aquaero so that the relay would be energized for 7 seconds IIRC. That would be the same thing as a hard power off incase the software is hung and the software/OS shutdown not possible.

Since there is many possibilities on how to cause the relay to get energized it would really depend on which path you choose to give you details.


----------



## Sorphius

Please pardon the noob question, but I'm having a small frustration setting up my Aquaero 6 Pro with the Aquasuite. I've managed the sensors and whatnot okay thus far, but no matter what I do, I can't find a way to control my pumps. I have two Aquacomputer D5 PWM pumps connected to the "Aquabus High" port on the Aquaero via a PWM splitter. They power up okay, but I can't find them anywhere in the Aquasuite to turn them down so they aren't running at 100% all the time.

Any suggestions?


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sorphius*
> 
> Please pardon the noob question, but I'm having a small frustration setting up my Aquaero 6 Pro with the Aquasuite. I've managed the sensors and whatnot okay thus far, but no matter what I do, I can't find a way to control my pumps. I have two Aquacomputer D5 PWM pumps connected to the "Aquabus High" port on the Aquaero via a PWM splitter. They power up okay, but I can't find them anywhere in the Aquasuite to turn them down so they aren't running at 100% all the time.
> 
> Any suggestions?


if you have the d5 pwm version from Aquacomputer them you need to connect them to a fan header not the aquabus port. Set that fan header to PWM control in aquasuite.


----------



## Sorphius

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> if you have the d5 pwm version from Aquacomputer them you need to connect them to a fan header not the aquabus port. Set that fan header to PWM control in aquasuite.


Oh. Derp. Okay, thanks. The manual for the Aquaero says that the Aquabus High is for an Aquacomputer D5, but I guess that's referring to their standalone pumps. Thanks.


----------



## zerophase

I just updated to the latest aquasuite firmware 2007, and one of my fan groups is always showing an rpm of 0, despite all fans spinning. Just a few minutes ago while running on 2006 that fan group was showing a rpm of about 600.

I have two fan groups on my radiator fan curve controller. Don't think that's the issue since the rpm still shows as 0 when I remove the group from the controller. Is there a known firmware bug for this?


----------



## Mega Man

Hopefully nothing is damaged.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Artah*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *GTXJackBauer*
> 
> I've talked to them countless times so I can say from personal experiences and having issues with my AQ 6, they went beyond to fix my issues. It doesn't seem like they would pull the rug under you just like that. They are smart guys and will do anything for their customers. It is possible you had a leak and either won't admit to it or never saw it before it dried up. Idk, I wasn't there but I have to defend them because they've helped me out graciously and I'm sure many others.
> 
> 
> 
> I'm glad that you had good experience with them and I'm sure majority of the people have had good experiences with them but the pump was acting exactly the same the whole time including *the time when I dry tested it for a few seconds when I got it. You tell me how I got a leak doing that*. I eventually installed it on a bay/res combo unit that I had to test it with water because I thought it required it. It acted exactly the same and when I would shake it lightly the pump would start. That pump and a new one that I got acted extremely different and I'm actually happy with the 2nd one that I didn't buy directly from them.
> 
> I have not been that upset for many years but I'm over it and still like their products and would definitely recommend it. Just wanted to caution people so they can at least expect it as a possibility because I was definitely blind sided with my experience and was upset enough to a point where my imagination was hovering over taking my first AQ6XT controller and smashing it with a hammer. Course I didn't do it, that would be stupidity. It was just about $120, I spend many thousands on computer hardware every year but it was the principle that was eating me alive.
Click to expand...

You already (EDIT) SHOULD OF (/EDIT) voided your warranty, FYI

And that right there could of caused a slow leak, you *NEVER* dry test a pump...... *NEVER* I would be amazed of that was not in the pump literature(EDIT) consider me amazed it says you shouldn't run it dry for long periods of time... either way I would not do it as explained here (/EDIT). They have a ceramic bearing that breaks when you do this, does it do it all the time? No but you have a very very high chance of doing it.

Even in the aq6 "demo" video shoggy didn't do it, he oiled the bearing but imo you should not do that. When I rebuild industrial pumps I only use dawn soap on the bearing as it washes away

You don't dry test pumps for 1 day, 1 min, 1sec, 0.1sec, you don't do it

*EVER*
You also don't want to spin them by hand for the same reason
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GTXJackBauer*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *iczerjones*
> 
> I personally use one of the 2-pin PWM outputs to drive a relay and the relay to perform an emergency shutdown for my system. Very useful connections should you have the need.
> 
> 
> 
> Could you explain how all that works. Is there any guides to setup this relay for emergency shutdown. Never really understood it all and don't have any electrical background so if its simple, great, if not, I'll just keep it the way it is.
Click to expand...

It would be best if you describe what you want done but we can easily help. Do you want to use the relay or power a relay via the 12vpwm port ?


----------



## Artah

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> Hopefully nothing is damaged.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You already (EDIT) SHOULD OF (/EDIT) voided your warranty, FYI
> 
> And that right there could of caused a slow leak, you *NEVER* dry test a pump...... *NEVER* I would be amazed of that was not in the pump literature(EDIT) consider me amazed it says you shouldn't run it dry for long periods of time... either way I would not do it as explained here (/EDIT). They have a ceramic bearing that breaks when you do this, does it do it all the time? No but you have a very very high chance of doing it.
> 
> Even in the aq6 "demo" video shoggy didn't do it, he oiled the bearing but imo you should not do that. When I rebuild industrial pumps I only use dawn soap on the bearing as it washes away
> 
> You don't dry test pumps for 1 day, 1 min, 1sec, 0.1sec, you don't do it
> 
> *EVER*
> You also don't want to spin them by hand for the same reason
> It would be best if you describe what you want done but we can easily help. Do you want to use the relay or power a relay via the 12vpwm port ?


Well I don't know how I burned a pump that didn't spin in the first place.


----------



## Mega Man

i know i come off abrasive, but really i am just blunt, i am not trying to bully you or anyone, but i want you to know what is not good on these pumps. and others too, who come here for info, i found OCN due to google. and because they had accurate info vs other forums i found a home, which i enjoy, i dont post things like that to insult, but to educate and like that one, i edited where i was wrong, but i want to get the point across dry running pumps will kill them, please forgive me if you took it any other way it was not intended

also i am not saying you cause the cap to fail, they fail. they just do


----------



## Artah

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> i know i come off abrasive, but really i am just blunt, i am not trying to bully you or anyone, but i want you to know what is not good on these pumps. and others too, who come here for info, i found OCN due to google. and because they had accurate info vs other forums i found a home, which i enjoy, i dont post things like that to insult, but to educate and like that one, i edited where i was wrong, but i want to get the point across dry running pumps will kill them, please forgive me if you took it any other way it was not intended
> 
> also i am not saying you cause the cap to fail, they fail. they just do


You're good, I like blunt and didn't take it the wrong way at all. I know that running a pump dry is a big Nono even before I hooked up power on that thing. I actually consider you one of the most prominent posters on here.


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Artah*
> 
> You're good, I like blunt and didn't take it the wrong way at all. I know that running a pump dry is a big Nono even before I hooked up power on that thing. I actually consider you one of the most prominent posters on here.


most prominent or biggest loudest mouth?????

































































just playing.


----------



## Methodical

Question. Is the Heatkiller pump top compatible with the Aquacomputer D5 Aquabus/usb pump? The description states that it's compatible with D5 and D5 pwm pump, but doesn't mention the aquabus/usb pump. I will be ordering the AQ stuff today and trying to narrow down the pump top. Note: The pump will not be mounted with the reservoir if that helps.

Thanks...Al


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Methodical*
> 
> Question. Is the Heatkiller pump top compatible with the Aquacomputer D5 Aquabus/usb pump? The description states that it's compatible with D5 and D5 pwm pump, but doesn't mention the aquabus/usb pump. I will be ordering the AQ stuff today and trying to narrow down the pump top. Note: The pump will not be mounted with the reservoir if that helps.
> 
> Thanks...Al


All the pumps are the same just boards inside them different.. So of course any D5 will work with this pump top specifically the AQ USD/Aquabus will!!


----------



## Mega Man

The only time I have seen issues is with pump sleeves/covers which are not tops and are purely for aesthetics.


----------



## Methodical

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> All the pumps are the same just boards inside them different.. So of course any D5 will work with this pump top specifically the AQ USD/Aquabus will!!


Great thanks for the info.

Question. Is a pump to just a pump top? I'm sure is probably no, but I ask because I see the price ranges from $40-$100 or more.

Thanks


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Methodical*
> 
> Great thanks for the info.
> 
> Question. Is a pump to just a pump top? I'm sure is probably no, but I ask because I see the price ranges from $40-$100 or more.
> 
> I am also looking at this Aquacomputer pump top I really just need a pump top that I can mount at the bottom of the case.
> 
> Thanks


not sure I under stand your questions but if you are asking if a D5 pump needs a top then the answer is yes.. you can buy bare D5 pumps from anywhere from 60 to more than a 100 dollars and they are basically the same thing..

tops you can pay from 30 to over a 100 dollars and all basically same thing just depends on what you want!!


----------



## Methodical

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> not sure I under stand your questions but if you are asking if a D5 pump needs a top then the answer is yes.. you can buy bare D5 pumps from anywhere from 60 to more than a 100 dollars and they are basically the same thing..
> 
> tops you can pay from 30 to over a 100 dollars and all basically same thing just depends on what you want!!


You understood my question perfectly. I left the P off of top, which made it confusing.

I decided to go with the Watercool Heatkiller pump tops. Now, I am investigating the Shoggy Sandwich. Man, so much to consider.

Thanks again...Al


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Methodical*
> 
> You understood my question perfectly. I left the P off of top, which made it confusing.
> 
> I decided to go with the Watercool Heatkiller pump tops. Now, I am investigating the Shoggy Sandwich. Man, so much to consider.
> 
> Thanks again...Al


some tops come with the pump included and that's is why some cost around US100. Usually the top alone will cost between 30-60ish. Shoggy sandwich is effective in decoupling the pump but there are other materials out there that can be used. One thing I wanna try next time is Sorbothane Bumpers (thks to iBruce) or a piece of it I can cut to insert the pump back to keep it facing up.

here is something I did to mount mine facing up using shoggy sandwich:


----------



## jvillaveces

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Methodical*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> All the pumps are the same just boards inside them different.. So of course any D5 will work with this pump top specifically the AQ USD/Aquabus will!!
> 
> 
> 
> Great thanks for the info.
> 
> Question. Is a pump to just a pump top? I'm sure is probably no, but I ask because I see the price ranges from $40-$100 or more.
> 
> Thanks
Click to expand...

There are noticeable pressure and flow differences between different pump tops. Bitspower, for example, performs worse than the stock Laing top at higher flow rates. Extremerig.nets has several thorough reviews of some of the most popular models if you're interested


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jvillaveces*
> 
> There are noticeable pressure and flow differences between different pump tops. Bitspower, for example, performs worse than the stock Laing top at higher flow rates. Extremerig.nets has several thorough reviews of some of the most popular models if you're interested


yes their are differences but not enough to really notice in a loop. A lot of variables here also. best thing is to get the one you think looks the best or has best price as you will not see but maybe 1 to 3 degrees difference...


----------



## DMatthewStewart

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hyp36rmax*
> 
> Will the Silverstone SST-CPF04 PWM fan hub work with the Aquaero XT 6?


I dont see why it wouldnt. Youre just splitting the signal. However...I have plugged multiple hubs into the many fan controllers and some work and some dont. So far, I havent found a hub that did not work with my Aquaero 5LT. But I havent used the Silverstone PWM because I switched to GT's and only needed three pin connections. I used the ModMyToys 8 way splitter when I waas running the e-Loop Noiseblockers. I know for a fact that that one worked


----------



## Methodical

Thanks everyone for the input^^^^^. I put in my order today so that I get the 10% discount from Performance.


----------



## GTXJackBauer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Methodical*
> 
> Thanks everyone for the input^^^^^. I put in my order today so that I get the 10% discount from Performance.










Got to love those discount codes.


----------



## Methodical

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GTXJackBauer*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Got to love those discount codes.


Yep. I just hate that they forced me to pay for insurance and signature to protect them - haha!


----------



## Artah

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Methodical*
> 
> Thanks everyone for the input^^^^^. I put in my order today so that I get the 10% discount from Performance.


Make sure you check the different ways to ship it from PPC, it could save you some cash. I know some carriers play Frisbee with your package though so you might have a preference


----------



## Methodical

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Artah*
> 
> Make sure you check the different ways to ship it from PPC, it could save you some cash. I know some carriers play Frisbee with your package though so you might have a preference


I do and Fedex has been the cheapest lately, plus with home shipping I can get it on a Saturday. Speaking of frisbee, the USPS dude tossed my packaged onto the porch the other day, even my wife was like ***. He rung the bell, too, so he probably didn't care. Fortunately, it was only a radiator gasket. He was not the normal driver either.


----------



## Artah

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Methodical*
> 
> I do and Fedex has been the cheapest lately, plus with home shipping I can get it on a Saturday. Speaking of frisbee, the USPS dude tossed my packaged onto the porch the other day, even my wife was like ***. He rung the bell, too, so he probably didn't care. Fortunately, it was only a radiator gasket. He was not the normal driver either.


Lol and I thought we were the only victims of the USPS quality service. One time they threw sas hard drives on the porch. The wife was pissed.


----------



## Mystriss

All my packages get chucked on the porch, regardless of who drops them off - then they sit, often for most of the day, in twenty below (F) temps. I have a winter ritual where all packages sit inside for 4 hours minimum to "de-thaw" before I can open them, else the plastic tends to crack heh


----------



## LostParticle

Thank you for the new Aquasuite 2016-3









Everything upgraded smoothly and this time all the pop-up windows were in English. The New's Feed seems updated and reliable, as well. I like also that the new Demo Page now offers the "modern" layout (and so we don't have to ask, look for and load it)

Thanks!


----------



## Artah

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LostParticle*
> 
> Thank you for the new Aquasuite 2016-3
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Everything upgraded smoothly and this time all the pop-up windows were in English. The New's Feed seems updated and reliable, as well. I like also that the new Demo Page now offers the "modern" layout (and so we don't have to ask, look for and load it)
> 
> Thanks!


Your old configs stuck and working fine? I have a ton of things I have done to tune my system and would hate to start over with the new 2016-3 but I normally like upgrades.


----------



## InfoSeeker

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Artah*
> 
> Your old configs stuck and working fine? I have a ton of things I have done to tune my system and would hate to start over with the new 2016-3 but I normally like upgrades.


There is a firmware update required for the aquaero, so you will need to reload your profile.
The update automatically saves a copy of the current aquaero profile prior to installation.
After the firmware update, go to the aquaero > system tab, and import the last saved profile.


----------



## Domiro

It's not clear from the manual but do I set up a farbwerk (through USB) on its own and then connect it to my AQ5 LT, or can I connect it through aquabus directly to my AQ5 and go from there?

That, and does it take the 3-pin or 4-pin cable?


----------



## GTXJackBauer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Domiro*
> 
> It's not clear from the manual but do I set up a farbwerk (through USB) on its own and then connect it to my AQ5 LT, or can I connect it through aquabus directly to my AQ5 and go from there?
> 
> That, and does it take the 3-pin or 4-pin cable?


You set it up via USB first to set its own device ID and than can disconnect it from the USB and connect it to the Aquabus high via 3-pin cable since it gets its power from its own molex.


----------



## Domiro

Checked the manual and it notes 4 partnumbers refering to cables. Consisting of two 3-pin and two 4-pin cables. I had a for 4-pin lying around and so the farbwerk is recognised in Aquasuite. I can change settings (under output and controllers) but they just don't apply. The led strip rotates between all colours every few seconds. 5050 LEDs from AC.


----------



## Killa Cam

Just ordered me a aquaero 6 xt with blue leds. Now i have to read through this thread :|


----------



## DerComissar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Killa Cam*
> 
> Just ordered me a aquaero 6 xt with blue leds. Now i have to read through this thread :|


Same here.
I've got a lot to learn.


----------



## RDKing2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GTXJackBauer*
> 
> You set it up via USB first to set its own device ID and than can disconnect it from the USB and connect it to the Aquabus high via 3-pin cable since it gets its power from its own molex.


Each type of device already has it's own ID. You do no have to change the device ID unless there is more than one of each. Please do not confuse people.


----------



## Mega Man

.... he was talking aquabus address and he was right you have to change it if you have more then 1, or have multiple of the same type ( for further clarification I would reconnect reading the manual if you (the reader, not the person who posted above this post ) don't understand what I mean )


----------



## jvillaveces

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RDKing2*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *GTXJackBauer*
> 
> You set it up via USB first to set its own device ID and than can disconnect it from the USB and connect it to the Aquabus high via 3-pin cable since it gets its power from its own molex.
> 
> 
> 
> Each type of device already has it's own ID. You do no have to change the device ID unless there is more than one of each. Please do not confuse people.
Click to expand...

You do have to assign a unique aquabus address to each device. You do that by unplugging the system from the mains, connecting the device via USB, and giving it a unique aquabus address in Aquasuite, After that, you can unplug the USB connection or leave it on.


----------



## RDKing2

That is news to me. I have multiple devices connected to the A6 and the only one that has been connected via usb is one of the PA2's. It was the only device that was not seen by the A6. I changed the device address on it and it was seen. Now that I think about it, may be because all the devices I have used have unique ID's. The AS pumps and PA have their own set of ID's and are not bunched together as standard MPS devices like the D5 pumps and aquabus flowmeters. Think the Farbwerk may have its own ID as well.


----------



## Mega Man

Again you may want to read the manual it explains it perfectly


----------



## RDKing2

I apologize, have read the A5/6 manual a few times and just went through it again. The only section I see about USB connection is referring to the Aquaero itself (section 5.2) Not trying to be argumentative. I do not have that experience. The only time an add on device should need to be connected via USB is if there is a device address conflict. From what I just read up to two farbwerk's can be connected at the same time. Believe the farbwerk is not an MPS device so the same would apply to it as the PA.

This is directly from the PA2 manual:
Before connecting poweradjust 2 devices to an aquaero 5 controller, each poweradjust
2 device has to be configured to an individual aquabus address. *You may
skip this step if only one poweradjust 2 device is connected to an aquaero 5*. Addresses
50 through 57 are available for poweradjust 2 devices.

This is directly from the farbwerk manual;
Before connecting farbwerk devices to an aquaero 5/6 controller, each farbwerk
device has to be configured to an individual aquabus address. *You may skip this
step if only one farbwerk device is connected.* Addresses 20 and 21 are available
for farbwerk devices.

Edit- More information from the manuals

From MPS configuration manual:
Before connecting devices of the mps family to an aquaero 5/6 controller, each
mps device has to be configured to an individual aquabus address. *You may skip
this step if only one mps device is connected to an aquaero 5/6.* Addresses 12,
13, 14 and 15 are available for mps devices.
The next setting determines which interface (USB/aquabus) of the mps device is to
be precessed with higher priority. This setting is only effective for the D5 pump motor
and will only be processed if both USB and aquabus interface are connected at
the same time.

From Aquastream pump manual:
If the connector is configured as aquabus interface, the aquabus address of the
aquastream XT controller can be selected. Each aquabus device has to be configured
to a unique aquabus address. *If a single aquastream XT pump is used, this
step may be skipped.* Addresses 10 and 11 are available for aquastream XT
pumps.

Poweradjust 3 manual:
Before connecting poweradjust devices to an aquaero 5/6 controller, each poweradjust
device has to be configured to an individual aquabus address. *You may
skip this step if only one poweradjust device is connected.* Addresses 50 through
57 are available for poweradjust devices.


----------



## Methodical

Curious. Why doesn't the Aquacomputer D5 usb/aquabus pump include the aquabus cable; it includes the usb and rpm cables? That just makes no sense.


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Methodical*
> 
> Curious. Why doesn't the Aquacomputer D5 usb/aquabus pump include the aquabus cable; it includes the usb and rpm cables? That just makes no sense.


that is true but any 3 or 4 pin fan cable will work..


----------



## Methodical

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> that is true but any 3 or 4 pin fan cable will work..


Thanks for the heads up. I have plenty of those cables. Which is best/recommended 3 or 4 pin?


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Methodical*
> 
> Thanks for the heads up. I have plenty of those cables. Which is best/recommended 3 or 4 pin?


nothing best but you do not need the 4 pin as the pump is powered separately. so just use 3 pin.


----------



## Methodical

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> nothing best but you do not need the 4 pin as the pump is powered separately. so just use 3 pin.


Thanks. You saved me some headaches, time and $.

Oh forgot. To confirm, the rpm cable is just a standard 3 pin cable, too, correct? At least that's what I see. Just need to be sure, so that I don't short anything, plus I will need longer cables that what was provided.


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Methodical*
> 
> Thanks. You saved me some headaches, time and $.
> 
> Oh forgot. To confirm, the rpm cable is just a standard 3 pin cable, too, correct? At least that's what I see. Just need to be sure, so that I don't short anything, plus I will need longer cables that what was provided.


I think if you are using the aquabus then this will give you a RPM reading from the pump. I am at work and do not have notes in front of me so you might need to read to double check this...


----------



## willemdoom

He guys, question from a beginner here. If I get a Aqauero 5lt can i just hook up a ddc pump to it or do I need an add-on or something? Thanks for the help


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *willemdoom*
> 
> He guys, question from a beginner here. If I get a Aqauero 5lt can i just hook up a ddc pump to it or do I need an add-on or something? Thanks for the help


quick and easy answer is yes! b ut need to read more to see your options


----------



## willemdoom

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> quick and easy answer is yes! b ut need to read more to see your options


Thanks, ill probably print out the manual and read through it when I get the time


----------



## InfoSeeker

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> I think if you are using the aquabus then this will give you a RPM reading from the pump. I am at work and do not have notes in front of me so you might need to read to double check this...


Correct.

The RPM output from the pump is the same as the RPM output from the aquaero... it is an alarm signal.

The RPM outputs a fake FAN RPM that you would connect to the mobo processor fan header. If the pump or aquaero sees an alarm as configured by the user, it can turn off the fake RPM to the mobo fan header, and if your BIOS is setup, the mobo will shut the system down.


----------



## Methodical

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> I think if you are using the aquabus then this will give you a RPM reading from the pump. I am at work and do not have notes in front of me so you might need to read to double check this...


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *InfoSeeker*
> 
> Correct.
> 
> The RPM output from the pump is the same as the RPM output from the aquaero... it is an alarm signal.
> 
> The RPM outputs a fake FAN RPM that you would connect to the mobo processor fan header. If the pump or aquaero sees an alarm as configured by the user, it can turn off the fake RPM to the mobo fan header, and if your BIOS is setup, the mobo will shut the system down.


This is all good to know. Thanks fellas.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *InfoSeeker*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> I think if you are using the aquabus then this will give you a RPM reading from the pump. I am at work and do not have notes in front of me so you might need to read to double check this...
> 
> 
> 
> Correct.
> 
> The RPM output from the pump is the same as the RPM output from the aquaero... it is an alarm signal.
> 
> The RPM outputs a fake FAN RPM that you would connect to the mobo processor fan header. If the pump or aquaero sees an alarm as configured by the user, it can turn off the fake RPM to the mobo fan header, and if your BIOS is setup, the mobo will shut the system down.
Click to expand...

If capable


----------



## Shoggy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *willemdoom*
> 
> He guys, question from a beginner here. If I get a Aqauero 5lt can i just hook up a ddc pump to it or do I need an add-on or something? Thanks for the help


The passive heatsink is highly recommend and an adapter cable might be useful.


----------



## Killa Cam

So, whats the best pwm splitter to pair with the aquaero 6xt? Also, has anyone have any experience with the switech mcp50x pump and 6xt?


----------



## Shoggy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Killa Cam*
> 
> So, whats the best pwm splitter to pair with the aquaero 6xt


We will have a neat solution soon


----------



## gdubc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Killa Cam*
> 
> So, whats the best pwm splitter to pair with the aquaero 6xt? Also, has anyone have any experience with the switech mcp50x pump and 6xt?


Swiftech makes 8 way splitters in sata or molex power connectors that are fairly inexpensive, Ten bucks at PPCS as well as Sidewinder. You can buy from Sidewinder through Amazon for $12.50 shipped.

One thing to keep in mind is that if your fans are Corsair pwm they differ from the pwm standard the aquaero was based on. I think you can add 3 to one channel with typical full control, but with the 4th and up the range of control gets smaller and smaller.


----------



## GTXJackBauer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> We will have a neat solution soon


PWM PAs?









Any news on a colored LCD LED (RGB?) AQ? :


----------



## Mega Man

Random question since the new pwm standard is 5v or 3.3v if you use one from 5v and one from 3.3v on a splitter will it damage the fan that uses 3.3v?


----------



## RnRollie

good question... i assume not , unless it is a really poorly made fan (missing a diode on the pwm control line) which is not able to "split off" 5v from its 12v input.

But i do imagine that the fan that splits off 3.3 V while the controller is expecting 5v will just not be able to "communicate" with the controller


----------



## pixelrocket

I just picked up a Aquaero 6 XT. How "soon" are we talking about on a release date for the splitter solution? I was just about to pull the trigger on some ModMyToys 8 way blocks.


----------



## Killa Cam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> We will have a neat solution soon


Sweet. I still have to order a flow meter and some farbwerk items. Ill just wait until then.


----------



## Methodical

My research shows that I need to use the Caselab nonconforming 5.25 flex bay mount to install the Aquaero 6 controller in the Caselab 5.25 flex bay. However, I spoke with Caselab and they were not able to absolutely confirm this since they believe that whatever mounting issues existed (believe the controller was smaller than 5.25) with their cases and the controllers were resolved about 1 year ago. I need a shorter mount to install the controller because the standard mount is too long and makes contact with the radiator mount (installing controller in upper chamber). If anyone can confirm that this is the correct mount, I'd appreciate it.

I also found This short mount and This short mount.

Which mount do I need?

Thanks...Al


----------



## Costas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Methodical*
> 
> Which mount do I need?


Grab the Short - Non Conforming mount as this mount will provide you with the best option when it comes to installing your Aquaero. http://www.caselabs-store.com/flex-bay-5-25-device-mount-short-nonconforming/

The brackets on the Aquaero were supposedly modified some time ago - however there are still stocks of the Aquaero which have the brackets that don't quite fit correctly.

By purchasing the short non-conforming mounting kit you can mount any of the Aquaero's perfectly.


----------



## Methodical

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Costas*
> 
> Grab the Short - Non Conforming mount as this mount will provide you with the best option when it comes to installing your Aquaero. http://www.caselabs-store.com/flex-bay-5-25-device-mount-short-nonconforming/
> 
> The brackets on the Aquaero were supposedly modified some time ago - however there are still stocks of the Aquaero which have the brackets that don't quite fit correctly.
> 
> By purchasing the short non-conforming mounting kit you can mount any of the Aquaero's perfectly.


Thank you.


----------



## DerComissar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Costas*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Methodical*
> 
> Which mount do I need?
> 
> 
> 
> Grab the Short - Non Conforming mount as this mount will provide you with the best option when it comes to installing your Aquaero. http://www.caselabs-store.com/flex-bay-5-25-device-mount-short-nonconforming/
> 
> The brackets on the Aquaero were *supposedly* modified some time ago - however there are still stocks of the Aquaero which have the brackets that don't quite fit correctly.
> 
> By purchasing the short non-conforming mounting kit you can mount any of the Aquaero's perfectly.
Click to expand...

Yeah, I had to buy the short non-conforming mount, for a just-purchased AQ6 XT, for my S8.
I seriously doubt that AC has changed the brackets, or if they ever will.


----------



## Methodical

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DerComissar*
> 
> Yeah, I had to buy the short non-conforming mount, for a just-purchased AQ6 XT, for my S8.
> I seriously doubt that AC has changed the brackets, or if they ever will.


Cool. Thanks for the confirmation. I am about to place an order with Caselab and did not want to get the wrong item.


----------



## Killa Cam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Methodical*
> 
> Cool. Thanks for the confirmation. I am about to place an order with Caselab and did not want to get the wrong item.


Well then, welcome to the cl family









Dont forget to drop a pic at the cl owners club when your case arrives. We got a some amazing supportive peeps up in there.

So what amazing cl case have u chosen?


----------



## Methodical

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Killa Cam*
> 
> Well then, welcome to the cl family
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Dont forget to drop a pic at the cl owners club when your case arrives. We got a some amazing supportive peeps up in there.
> 
> So what amazing cl case have u chosen?


Sorry for the confusion. I already have the case. I meant that I was putting in an order for a few accessories from Caselab. The build is in progress (about 75-80% done)


----------



## Iceman2733

Welp I have resisted as long as I could I have decided to pick up an Aquaero 6. Going to be running 14 fans on it and letting it monitor my two D5 pumps RPM. Maybe later on down the road I will add a temp sensor and flow meter. Question Can you guys show me them mounted in some SMA8 cases. I want to mount my in the lower chamber and just want to see pics of it down there if anyone has one like that.


----------



## goofyhsk

Normal short bracket here on my S3 + 6Pro, seems fine.


----------



## Shoggy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GTXJackBauer*
> 
> PWM PAs?


No, we are talking about a splitter.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pixelrocket*
> 
> How "soon" are we talking about on a release date for the splitter solution?


A few weeks.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DerComissar*
> 
> I seriously doubt that AC has changed the brackets, or if they ever will.


They were slightly modified a long time ago. It already starts to become a bit ridiculous that I only read such problems from Caselabs users. So what are the other thousands of customers doing?


----------



## Killa Cam

Hey, shoggy. What is the difference between the two high flow meters? Is the more expensive one have a built in temp sensor?


----------



## Methodical

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DerComissar*
> 
> Yeah, I had to buy the short non-conforming mount, for a just-purchased AQ6 XT, for my S8.
> I seriously doubt that AC has changed the brackets, or if they ever will.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *goofyhsk*
> 
> Normal short bracket here on my S3 + 6Pro, seems fine.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> No, we are talking about a splitter.
> A few weeks.
> They were slightly modified a long time ago. It already starts to become a bit ridiculous that I only read such problems from Caselabs users. So what are the other thousands of customers doing?


Since there was some conflicting information here, I removed the upper radiator and installed the standard brackets and found that the controller fits perfectly within the standard brackets. So, the standard short bracket will work with my controller. Maybe there are some older inventory out there that has the older brackets - who knows. I purchased from Performance which I'm sure their inventory turns over quite often. DerComissar, where and when did you buy your controller?

I'm going with the adjustable short mount. It's a few dollars cheaper, too.

Thanks again everyone.


----------



## Costas

A lot of us have had to use the shims to space out the width for the Aquaero for that perfect fit (not just the depth) so we had to use the non conforming variant.

There probably is a large variance in the units.


----------



## DerComissar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Costas*
> 
> A lot of us have had to use the shims to space out the width for the Aquaero for that perfect fit (not just the depth) so we had to use the non conforming variant.
> 
> There probably is a large variance in the units.


That could very well be.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Methodical*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *DerComissar*
> 
> Yeah, I had to buy the short non-conforming mount, for a just-purchased AQ6 XT, for my S8.
> I seriously doubt that AC has changed the brackets, or if they ever will.
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *goofyhsk*
> 
> Normal short bracket here on my S3 + 6Pro, seems fine.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Since there was some conflicting information here, I removed the upper radiator and installed the standard brackets and found that the controller fits perfectly within the standard brackets. So, the standard short bracket will work with my controller. Maybe there are some older inventory out there that has the older brackets - who knows. I purchased from Performance which I'm sure their inventory turns over quite often. DerComissar, where and when did you buy your controller?
> 
> I'm going with the adjustable short mount. It's a few dollars cheaper, too.
> 
> Thanks again everyone.
Click to expand...

Good that the short mount worked for you.








I bought my AQ6XT at Dazmode a few weeks ago. He had just gotten some in.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *DerComissar*
> 
> I seriously doubt that AC has changed the brackets, or if they ever will.
> 
> 
> 
> They were slightly modified a long time ago. It already starts to become a bit ridiculous that I only read such problems from Caselabs users. So what are the other thousands of customers doing?
Click to expand...

That may very well be the issue Shoggy, idk.
Anyway, with the n/c mount it's fine, so all is good.


----------



## RDKing2

This is what I did. Made my own mounts from a single space blank. Did not want the ears of any mount extending back into the pedestal. Made hooking up/changing connections much easier on the back side once installed

The nice thing about CaseLabs is you can mod, cut and chop parts to do what ever you want and always get replacements if needed.
Does not hurt that they are a 15 minute drive from me either


----------



## Mystriss

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> We will have a neat solution soon


\o/ ~Squee~


----------



## Chunky_Chimp

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GTXJackBauer*
> 
> PWM PAs?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Any news on a colored LCD LED (RGB?) AQ? :


I'd kinda rather they bring back the premium option from the Aquaero 4 where it had a VFD with color filter inserts you could use to change the display color. I doubt that'll happen, though.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RDKing2*
> 
> Does not hurt that they are a 15 minute drive from me either


i

hate

you


----------



## DerComissar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *RDKing2*
> 
> Does not hurt that they are a 15 minute drive from me either
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> i
> 
> hate
> 
> you
Click to expand...

Lol!


----------



## jsutter71

I bought the nonconforming brackets for my Case Labs case to mount my AQ6XT and discovered they weren't needed. Mine lined up perfectly with the regular Short device mounts. I had a extra set of brackets that I bought for my AQ5LT that I didn't end up using and I had them off to the side. When I took the brackets off my AQ6XT to put on the black bezel, I threw them in the same pile as the other brackets. So I did a quick comparison and one of the bracket sets was a few millimeters wider, so that was the set I used for my 6XT. So either Aquaero fixed the issue with the brackets on the 6XT or the ones I bought were the solution.


----------



## RDKing2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> i
> 
> hate
> 
> you


With that, I am beginning to develop a slight dislike for you








They do will call. No shipping


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jsutter71*
> 
> I bought the nonconforming brackets for my Case Labs case to mount my AQ6XT and discovered they weren't needed. Mine lined up perfectly with the regular Short device mounts. I had a extra set of brackets that I bought for my AQ5LT that I didn't end up using and I had them off to the side. When I took the brackets off my AQ6XT to put on the black bezel, I threw them in the same pile as the other brackets. So I did a quick comparison and one of the bracket sets was a few millimeters wider, so that was the set I used for my 6XT. So either Aquaero fixed the issue with the brackets on the 6XT or the ones I bought were the solution.


Good, first post I have seen that didn't need them
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RDKing2*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> i
> 
> hate
> 
> you
> 
> 
> 
> With that, I am beginning to develop a slight dislike for you
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> They do will call. No shipping
Click to expand...

...... they just need to move to co....


----------



## RDKing2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> ...... they just need to move to co....


Might be good for them, California is no help to small businesses.


----------



## DMatthewStewart

Anyone know if a regular 4-pin fan splitter will work for the RGB LED on the 5 LT? Basically I want to get two LED's off the main plug for my Aquabox.


----------



## Mega Man

It depends a real fan splitter wool not connect all 4 wires, it will bypass the slave fans RPM wire

There are some 4 pin splitters that will work like the mod my mods splitters


----------



## InfoSeeker

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DMatthewStewart*
> 
> Anyone know if a regular 4-pin fan splitter will work for the RGB LED on the 5 LT? Basically I want to get two LED's off the main plug for my Aquabox.


I believe the RGB output on the aquaero is only sufficient for one LED.


----------



## Mega Man

you can **Barely** get 2


----------



## DMatthewStewart

Ok, so worst case I get a farbwerk and have fun playing with colors. I figured a regular 4-pin splitter wouldn't work but I didn't know if anyone had tried it or not. I was hoping the one wire missing was a ground.


----------



## Methodical

Hey everyone. Any suggestions on the better 4 pin fan splitter to use with the AQ6? I've looked at Silversone, swiftech and modmytoys and they all have psu power connections. I realized they come with psu power connection because they are designed to be connected to the MB cpu fan connector. Does anyone sell fan distribution blocks without the psu power connection? I was hoping to find one that doesn't have those connection since the fan controller can handle the load?

Thanks


----------



## Jetskyer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> you can **Barely** get 2


On what is this based?

I have my 5LT running 1 RBG led most of the time, but it has ran 4 extra for days straight as well without a hitch..


----------



## smicha

Gry phobya pwm splitter for 8 fans


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Methodical*
> 
> Hey everyone. Any suggestions on the better 4 pin fan splitter to use with the AQ6? I've looked at Silversone, swiftech and modmytoys and they all have psu power connections. I realized they come with psu power connection because they are designed to be connected to the MB cpu fan connector. Does anyone sell fan distribution blocks without the psu power connection? I was hoping to find one that doesn't have those connection since the fan controller can handle the load?
> 
> Thanks


I still power my fans with the psu and only get pmw signal from AQ and send it the rpm signal! But i make my own psu cables so easier to make look neat!!


----------



## JasonMorris

ModmyToys do them without power. all 4 pin connectors.


----------



## Jokesterwild

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JasonMorris*
> 
> ModmyToys do them without power. all 4 pin connectors.


You want one with power input... motherboard fan plug can't support too many fans.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jetskyer*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> you can **Barely** get 2
> 
> 
> 
> On what is this based?
> 
> I have my 5LT running 1 RBG led most of the time, but it has ran 4 extra for days straight as well without a hitch..
Click to expand...

first i should of said "iirc" so i am sorry

second from the manual
page 11
Quote:


> 4.11. Connector „RGB LED" Connector for up to three LEDs or one two-color or RGB illumination module (not included in delivery). High brightness LEDs (3-4 V, 20 mA) may be connected without series resistor, a series resistor is built into the aquaero. Pin assignmentin 1: VCC LED 1 Pin 2: VCC LED 2 Pin 3: GND


3 normal leds, one hooked up to each channel ( 3 channels on a rgb led ) or ONE 2 color / rgb led

going further from here

https://forum.aquacomputer.de/weitere-foren/english-forum/102241-rgb-illumination-module-for-aquaero-5-more-leds/

leads to this

http://forum.aquacomputer.de/weitere-foren/english-forum/101669-rgb-led/

[quote}
No, only on of the RGB modul is allowed. You can try more a your own risk.
{/quote}

so unless something has changed...

also i dont remember the specs off hand, but once in my searches ( before the farbwerk, and before i had found the jeak amp ) i actually found the ratings but i am not looking that in depth for this question


----------



## Methodical

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *smicha*
> 
> Gry phobya pwm splitter for 8 fans


Thanks. I will take a look at those.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> I still power my fans with the psu and only get pmw signal from AQ and send it the rpm signal! But i make my own psu cables so easier to make look neat!!


I considered doing this myself, but with the Swiftech splitter, but I'd like to keep the psu cables at a minimum when possible. If this happens to be the best option for a distribution block, I may reconsider.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JasonMorris*
> 
> ModmyToys do them without power. all 4 pin connectors.


I will go to their website, perhaps they list more than what I've found so far.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jokesterwild*
> 
> You want one with power input... motherboard fan plug can't support too many fans.


The fans will not be connected to the MB; they will be connected to a fan controller.

Thanks everyone.


----------



## Jetskyer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> first i should of said "iirc" so i am sorry
> 
> second from the manual
> page 11
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> 4.11. Connector „RGB LED" Connector for up to three LEDs or one two-color or RGB illumination module (not included in delivery). *High brightness LEDs (3-4 V, 20 mA) may be connected without series resistor, a series resistor is built into the aquaero.* Pin assignmentin 1: VCC LED 1 Pin 2: VCC LED 2 Pin 3: GND
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> going further from here
> 
> https://forum.aquacomputer.de/weitere-foren/english-forum/102241-rgb-illumination-module-for-aquaero-5-more-leds/
> 
> leads to this
> 
> http://forum.aquacomputer.de/weitere-foren/english-forum/101669-rgb-led/
> 
> [quote}
> No, only on of the RGB modul is allowed. You can try more a your own risk.
> {/quote}
> 
> so unless something has changed...
> 
> also i dont remember the specs off hand, but once in my searches ( before the farbwerk, and before i had found the jeak amp ) i actually found the ratings but i am not looking that in depth for this question
Click to expand...

That might explain why it works.. I did add resistors according to the specs of the LED manufacturer even though it wouldn't be necessary with the aquaero.
The power draw therefore will be lower and apparently low enough for the aquaero not to blow it's circuitry.

It's a shame they didn't beef it up just a little, one RGB is not really.. much.


----------



## Trestles126

So I added a mp400 aquero flow meter to my loop. To get it to read just the flow do I just hook up the pmw cable and that's it? And establish a connection via aqua suite?


----------



## Mega Man

Usb first, update the firmware (if needed ) set up aquabus as priority then plug in aquabus,

What i don't remember is can I leave usb and aquabus connected at the same time? And If I do it can only get voltage from one or the other correct?


----------



## Costas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> What i don't remember is can I leave usb and aquabus connected at the same time? And If I do it can only get voltage from one or the other correct?


Yes you can leave both connected - This way you can access all the features as not all are available from just the MPS connection.

The MPS device can have both connections MPS/USB connected without power being an issue so no need to worry about disconnecting any power lines etc.

Do note that If one is only using a 3-pin fan type cable (instead of 4-pin) for the MPS connection then power needs to be routed to the MPS device for it to work. If a USB connection is made - then it can source +5v power from that.


----------



## Mega Man

tyvm


----------



## Mega Man

@Shoggy

why didnt AC ever make a aquabus DDC ?


----------



## Costas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> @Shoggy
> 
> why didnt AC ever make a aquabus DDC ?


Probably as their is virtually no room to fit a daughter board to the existing DDC PCB. Unlike the D5 case which is half empty.


----------



## GTXJackBauer

Not sure what happened if it was a limited production or not. Would have been nice to see those and a dual top in series. I sure would have jumped on one with possibly their tube reservoirs or if there was a dualbay version for two pumps.



Source


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Costas*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> @Shoggy
> 
> why didnt AC ever make a aquabus DDC ?
> 
> 
> 
> Probably as their is virtually no room to fit a daughter board to the existing DDC PCB. Unlike the D5 case which is half empty.
Click to expand...

But, couldn't they make a new one? Wouldn't be hard.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GTXJackBauer*
> 
> Not sure what happened if it was a limited production or not. Would have been nice to see those and a dual top in series. I sure would have jumped on one with possibly their tube reservoirs or if there was a dualbay version for two pumps.
> 
> 
> 
> Source


That's just the pump top not the pump afaik


----------



## GTXJackBauer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> That's just the pump top not the pump afaik


I mean they did make a DDC aquabus via top was my example.







But I do see with what you're saying.


----------



## DMatthewStewart

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Costas*
> 
> Yes you can leave both connected - This way you can access all the features as not all are available from just the MPS connection.
> 
> The MPS device can have both connections MPS/USB connected without power being an issue so no need to worry about disconnecting any power lines etc.
> 
> Do note that If one is only using a 3-pin fan type cable (instead of 4-pin) for the MPS connection then power needs to be routed to the MPS device for it to work. If a USB connection is made - then it can source +5v power from that.


So realistically the best way to connect this would be to connect USB to motherboard and then plug the 3-pin into the Aquaero. That would retain all the features and also take care of power, right? Because Im thinking about getting one of these as well. I guestimate my flow but Id like to know definitively what it is. I still havent used half of the potential of my Aquaero, and that bothers me. I really want to use as many functions of this little thing as possible.


----------



## InfoSeeker

3-pin, 4-pin aquabus cable... aargh.

ALWAYS use a 4-pin aquabus cables and you can't go wrong.
Hell, they are a pence cheaper on the AC web-store anyway.

Will never understand why AC introduced the 3-pin cable.


----------



## Costas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DMatthewStewart*
> 
> So realistically the best way to connect this would be to connect USB to motherboard and then plug the 3-pin into the Aquaero. That would retain all the features and also take care of power, right? Because Im thinking about getting one of these as well. I guestimate my flow but Id like to know definitively what it is. I still havent used half of the potential of my Aquaero, and that bothers me. I really want to use as many functions of this little thing as possible.


You require a USB connection to configure the MPS device - Then you require an Aquabus Bus connection if you want to access the device directly from the Aquaero main unit instead of through the Aquauite software

So in effect there are two ways of accessing/controlling the MPS flow meters. Not all functions/features are available with any one connection so using both USB & Aquabus allows the user to access all features at any point in time.

Do note though that it is not imperative to leave the USB connection in place after the MPS device is configured as most of the USB connected features are generally mostly related to configuration.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *InfoSeeker*
> 
> 3-pin, 4-pin aquabus cable... aargh.
> 
> ALWAYS use a 4-pin aquabus cables and you can't go wrong.
> Hell, they are a pence cheaper on the AC web-store anyway.
> 
> Will never understand why AC introduced the 3-pin cable.


they used to get damaged with Both connections (due to power on both pins. )


----------



## jsutter71

I have a question regarding the Aqualis base for pump adapters 880 ml with fountain effect and nano coating. The instructions say that in order to get the fountain affect, you need to connect the return line to the central connector of the reservoir. Is this what the instructions meant? And by return line their referring to the output?


----------



## golfleep

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jsutter71*
> 
> I have a question regarding the Aqualis base for pump adapters 880 ml with fountain effect and nano coating. The instructions say that in order to get the fountain affect, you need to connect the return line to the central connector of the reservoir. Is this what the instructions meant? And by return line their referring to the output?


You are correct, in order to get the fountain effect you need to connect the return line from your blocks or rads to the port you have the arrow pointing to. The coolant travels into that port and up the central pipe and out the multiple outlets in the top to give the fountain effect.


----------



## jsutter71

Ok. So I would have that center point as the inlet instead of the port labeled in? then I wound use the port labeled out for the coolant to exit the reservoir? Is the fountain affect noisy? Or worth the trouble?


----------



## seross69

If anyone wants a good price on Aquacomputer Poweradjust 2 USB - Standard-Series see the below classified on here.

http://www.overclock.net/t/1596175/aquacomputer-poweradjust-2-usb-standard-series


----------



## InfoSeeker

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jsutter71*
> 
> Ok. So I would have that center point as the inlet instead of the port labeled in? then I wound use the port labeled out for the coolant to exit the reservoir? Is the fountain affect noisy? Or worth the trouble?


You decide









https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Zpt9vtAib2w
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=V_zz1k9-G0g
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MQ2Ci6yxNCk


----------



## JamesHeaney

Hi everyone, I'm new here and ai actually joined this forum just to answer this question, so I hope someone has an answer for me.

I have 3 Noctua fans on my top radiator, all hooked up using extensions and Y splitters. I have another 4 Noctua fans on my bottom radiator, all hooked up using extensions and Y splitters.

I have an Aquaero 6XT, (I'm a new owner if you can't tell) and when I hook these fans up to the aquaero, I don't have a clue in the world of how to actually control them. When I hook them up, they run at 100%.

Can someone answer my very noobie question of how to control fans using aquaero or aquasuite? I'm so lost.

Thanks in advance.


----------



## apw63

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JamesHeaney*
> 
> Hi everyone, I'm new here and ai actually joined this forum just to answer this question, so I hope someone has an answer for me.
> 
> I have 3 Noctua fans on my top radiator, all hooked up using extensions and Y splitters. I have another 4 Noctua fans on my bottom radiator, all hooked up using extensions and Y splitters.
> 
> I have an Aquaero 6XT, (I'm a new owner if you can't tell) and when I hook these fans up to the aquaero, I don't have a clue in the world of how to actually control them. When I hook them up, they run at 100%.
> 
> Can someone answer my very noobie question of how to control fans using aquaero or aquasuite? I'm so lost.
> 
> Thanks in advance.


Welcome,

Look on the very first page of this thread. There are links to guides and tutorials. The aquearo is quite intimidating at first. Once you use it for a short period of time if becomes very intuitive. If the guides don't help come back an ask for more help. The more you play with it the easier it becomes to understand the functions.


----------



## JamesHeaney

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *apw63*
> 
> Welcome,
> 
> Look on the very first page of this thread. There are links to guides and tutorials. The aquearo is quite intimidating at first. Once you use it for a short period of time if becomes very intuitive. If the guides don't help come back an ask for more help. The more you play with it the easier it becomes to understand the functions.


Thank you! I will check out the guides!


----------



## DarthBaggins

Finally got my PA 2 Ultra USB hooked up and running, loving Aquasuite. This little thing has surprised the crap out of me, Big Bang for such a small package. But I do still want to snag an Aquero as well


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JamesHeaney*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *apw63*
> 
> Welcome,
> 
> Look on the very first page of this thread. There are links to guides and tutorials. The aquearo is quite intimidating at first. Once you use it for a short period of time if becomes very intuitive. If the guides don't help come back an ask for more help. The more you play with it the easier it becomes to understand the functions.
> 
> 
> 
> Thank you! I will check out the guides!
Click to expand...

imo the best place to start is to read the manual. very very helpful

https://aquacomputer.de/handbuecher.html?file=tl_files/aquacomputer/downloads/manuals/aquaero_5_6_en_2014_04_14.pdf

short form

goto fans -[- verify you are controlling properly PWM,RPM,VOLTAGE

goto controlers, press the "+" in the upper right section of screen,

i assume you want a curve? pick what kind of controller you want

pick a datasource ( hit the plus "+" in the section) set up the controller the way you want, ( set point, 2 setpoint, curve ect ) then select which fans you want controlled, ( right section "+" ) rinse and repeat for which ever fans you want to control however


----------



## Iceman2733

Question isn't the waterfall something you don't want in a loop? I have always heard u don't want water pouring it causes air to induce in the system. I always see/read about people running those tubes inside the res to push the return water way down to stop this. Which is how I did mine after all this info

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## DarthBaggins

In certain reservoirs yes, the Aqualis doesn't flow out hard enough to cause air to circulate into the loop. I've had one running for over a year with zero issues


----------



## Mega Man

it is personal pref, if you are going for pure silence??? no you dont

some like them

iirc there is a thread on OCN about this or one like it


----------



## Jidonsu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JamesHeaney*
> 
> Hi everyone, I'm new here and ai actually joined this forum just to answer this question, so I hope someone has an answer for me.
> 
> I have 3 Noctua fans on my top radiator, all hooked up using extensions and Y splitters. I have another 4 Noctua fans on my bottom radiator, all hooked up using extensions and Y splitters.
> 
> I have an Aquaero 6XT, (I'm a new owner if you can't tell) and when I hook these fans up to the aquaero, I don't have a clue in the world of how to actually control them. When I hook them up, they run at 100%.
> 
> Can someone answer my very noobie question of how to control fans using aquaero or aquasuite? I'm so lost.
> 
> Thanks in advance.


I answered this in your thread on Linustechtips a few days ago. Did you plug in the USB and run the software?


----------



## hwellen

Cozmo85, not sure exactly what you mean by marking the PWM header to show "Pump"

If you mean a physical marking, it should be no problem to add a tag.

If you mean to change the software to show Pump on the Aquasuite, that is pretty easy.

1. Open Aquasuite

2. Open Aquaero tab

3. Open Fans tab

4. Click on Settings

5. Click on the fan (at the top) that will be you fan controller.

6. You can change the name to anything you want.


----------



## Methodical

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Methodical*
> 
> My research shows that I need to use the Caselab nonconforming 5.25 flex bay mount to install the Aquaero 6 controller in the Caselab 5.25 flex bay. However, I spoke with Caselab and they were not able to absolutely confirm this since they believe that whatever mounting issues existed (believe the controller was smaller than 5.25) with their cases and the controllers were resolved about 1 year ago. I need a shorter mount to install the controller because the standard mount is too long and makes contact with the radiator mount (installing controller in upper chamber). If anyone can confirm that this is the correct mount, I'd appreciate it.
> 
> I also found This short mount and This short mount.
> 
> Which mount do I need?
> 
> Thanks...Al


Update: I thought I'd provide a followup to my AQ6 mounting questions and show that the normal Caselab 5.25 flex bay mounts do work perfectly when installing the controller in their cases. I used the Caselab short adjustable mount and the controller sits flush and even. You *Do Not* need to use the non conforming mounts as in the past anymore.

Note: I just purchased my controller less than 2 weeks ago, so the newer units should most likely be ok. The older units from what I hear still needs the non conforming mount.


----------



## Mega Man

Well I would bit say that just yet, although I hope you are right, 1 good one does not mean all are good


----------



## jsutter71

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Methodical*
> 
> Update: I thought I'd provide a followup to my AQ6 mounting questions and show that the normal Caselab 5.25 flex bay mounts do work perfectly when installing the controller in their cases. I used the Caselab short adjustable mount and the controller sits flush and even. You *Do Not* need to use the non conforming mounts as in the past anymore.


Could you take a picture from the front. I noticed that with mine their is a about a 1 1/2 millimeter gap between the face of the Aquaero and the case on one side. I think this has to do with the wider brackets on the Aquaero to make it fit properly. Instead of adjusting both brackets to make the Aquaero center, I think they saved a few bucks and altered only one of the brackets. I don't really have any issues other then the brackets being silver and my case being black. Easy fix with some paint though.


----------



## Methodical

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> Well I would bit say that just yet, although I hope you are right, 1 good one does not mean all are good


I should've qualified my statement with the fact that I just purchased my controller less than 2 weeks ago. So, the newer ones should most likely not have fitting issues as in the past. I recall Shoggy chiming in on this topic, too, when posed the fitment question - can't remember if it were here or in the Caselab thread.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jsutter71*
> 
> Could you take a picture from the front. I noticed that with mine their is a about a 1 1/2 millimeter gap between the face of the Aquaero and the case on one side. I think this has to do with the wider brackets on the Aquaero to make it fit properly. Instead of adjusting both brackets to make the Aquaero center, I think they saved a few bucks and altered only one of the brackets. I don't really have any issues other then the brackets being silver and my case being black. Easy fix with some paint though.


I will get a photo of the front shortly.


----------



## Mega Man

Hang on, I just need to consult something and I'll tell you


----------



## Costas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jsutter71*
> 
> Could you take a picture from the front. I noticed that with mine their is a about a 1 1/2 millimeter gap between the face of the Aquaero and the case on one side.


Mine was similar - I had to space out one side more than the other using the spacers which are supplied with the non conforming mount so that the unit was centered correctly.

My unit was fine as far as depth was concerned - It was predominately the uneven side clearances that were the issue.

At least with the non conforming mount kit you are able to easily adjust the unit for any mounting issues that may crop up.

Quick rough shot viewed directly from front......









Only current photo I have which shows the Aquaero from a side on view.... Open & zoom in on the original for a closer look at the Aquaero itself.


----------



## IT Diva

Hey guys,

Need some input from you all with experience with the AC D5 pumps with USB and Aquabus . . . .

Can I control and monitor their RPM with Aquasuite from just a USB connection without actually having to have an Aquaero?

If so, do they just run at the last speed setting on startup, until windows loads and you can go to Aquasuite and change the speed if you want . . .

Or do they just run at max until windows loads?

Thanks in advance,

Darlene


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Hey guys,
> 
> Need some input from you all with experience with the AC D5 pumps with USB and Aquabus . . . .
> 
> Can I control and monitor their RPM with Aquasuite from just a USB connection without actually having to have an Aquaero?
> 
> If so, do they just run at the last speed setting on startup, until windows loads and you can go to Aquasuite and change the speed if you want . . .
> 
> Or do they just run at max until windows loads?
> 
> Thanks in advance,
> 
> Darlene


From what I recall Darlene you can control and monitor the speed using aquasuite via USB. The missing feature will be the ability to create a controller for it if my memory still serves (and sometimes I think that is the case). After you set a speed via usb it will save to the pump board and it will run at that speed not matter what until you change again in aquasuite.


----------



## Methodical

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jsutter71*
> 
> Could you take a picture from the front. I noticed that with mine their is a about a 1 1/2 millimeter gap between the face of the Aquaero and the case on one side. I think this has to do with the wider brackets on the Aquaero to make it fit properly. Instead of adjusting both brackets to make the Aquaero center, I think they saved a few bucks and altered only one of the brackets. I don't really have any issues other then the brackets being silver and my case being black. Easy fix with some paint though.


Attached are several photos. I tried to give you as many angles as possible. The controller sits centered side to side (no shims) with the Caselab flex bay plates opening and flushed (front to back) with the plates (when looking from the sides or down from the top); some of the photos may look as if the controller is not flushed but it is. Photo 2 shows just how flushed it sits.

Note: I just purchased my AQ6 less than 2 weeks ago if that makes a difference.


----------



## InfoSeeker

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Hey guys,
> 
> Need some input from you all with experience with the AC D5 pumps with USB and Aquabus . . . .
> 
> Can I control and monitor their RPM with Aquasuite from just a USB connection without actually having to have an Aquaero?
> 
> If so, do they just run at the last speed setting on startup, until windows loads and you can go to Aquasuite and change the speed if you want . . .
> 
> Or do they just run at max until windows loads?
> 
> Thanks in advance,
> 
> Darlene


As Gabrielzm said, you can adjust the pump's power, and see the pump's RPM on the Pump's USB tab in aquasuite.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Hey guys,
> 
> Need some input from you all with experience with the AC D5 pumps with USB and Aquabus . . . .
> 
> Can I control and monitor their RPM with Aquasuite from just a USB connection without actually having to have an Aquaero?
> 
> If so, do they just run at the last speed setting on startup, until windows loads and you can go to Aquasuite and change the speed if you want . . .
> 
> Or do they just run at max until windows loads?
> 
> Thanks in advance,
> 
> Darlene
> 
> 
> 
> From what I recall Darlene you can control and monitor the speed using aquasuite via USB. The missing feature will be the ability to create a controller for it if my memory still serves (and sometimes I think that is the case). After you set a speed via usb it will save to the pump board and it will run at that speed not matter what until you change again in aquasuite.
Click to expand...

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *InfoSeeker*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Hey guys,
> 
> Need some input from you all with experience with the AC D5 pumps with USB and Aquabus . . . .
> 
> Can I control and monitor their RPM with Aquasuite from just a USB connection without actually having to have an Aquaero?
> 
> If so, do they just run at the last speed setting on startup, until windows loads and you can go to Aquasuite and change the speed if you want . . .
> 
> Or do they just run at max until windows loads?
> 
> Thanks in advance,
> 
> Darlene
> 
> 
> 
> As Gabrielzm said, you can adjust the pump's power, and see the pump's RPM on the Pump's USB tab in aquasuite.
Click to expand...

Thanks guys,

I was thinking along that line, but wanted to know for sure. . . .

I'm back to wanting to do something to spruce up my daily driver, but can't justify too much outlay for an older socket 775, Q9650 rig, so I'm trying to use a Lamptron CW611 that I already have, rather than buy another A6.

Darlene


----------



## jsutter71

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Methodical*
> 
> Attached are several photos. I tried to give you as many angles as possible. The controller sits centered side to side (no shims) with the Caselab flex bay plates opening and flushed (front to back) with the plates (when looking from the sides or down from the top); some of the photos may look as if the controller is not flushed but it is. Photo 2 shows just how flushed it sits.
> 
> Note: I just purchased my AQ6 less than 2 weeks ago if that makes a difference.


Yours is better centered then mine. I'm gonna pick up another set of brackets from PPCS and see if they are any better.


----------



## jsutter71

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Thanks guys,
> 
> I was thinking along that line, but wanted to know for sure. . . .
> 
> I'm back to wanting to do something to spruce up my daily driver, but can't justify too much outlay for an older socket 775, Q9650 rig, so I'm trying to use a Lamptron CW611 that I already have, rather than buy another A6.
> 
> Darlene


So with regards to this pump, your able to take advantage of most of the features with the USB and Aquabus connection. What is the added benefit of using the 3 pin connection? and where are the Aquaero 6XT would you plug that into if you chose to do so?


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jsutter71*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Thanks guys,
> 
> I was thinking along that line, but wanted to know for sure. . . .
> 
> I'm back to wanting to do something to spruce up my daily driver, but can't justify too much outlay for an older socket 775, Q9650 rig, so I'm trying to use a Lamptron CW611 that I already have, rather than buy another A6.
> 
> Darlene
> 
> 
> 
> So with regards to this pump, your able to take advantage of most of the features with the USB and Aquabus connection. What is the added benefit of using the 3 pin connection? and where are the Aquaero 6XT would you plug that into if you chose to do so?
Click to expand...

With an Aquaero, you'd plug it into the Aquabus High header.

The plus to having an Aquaero is that you could use the temp sensor inputs to the Aquaero and set up a speed controller based on temp if you wanted to.

With just Aquasuite and USB, it's all kinda manual, but for pumps, which are pretty much set-and-forget, once you have the system bleed, that's really all I need.

I just want to be able to slow the pumps down for quietness, and I won't be able to get to where the red adjuster is on a Vario model.

Darlene


----------



## InfoSeeker

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jsutter71*
> 
> So with regards to this pump, your able to take advantage of most of the features with the USB and Aquabus connection. What is the added benefit of using the 3 pin connection? and where are the Aquaero 6XT would you plug that into if you chose to do so?


The 3-pin (4-pin works fine also) connector IS the aquabus port.


----------



## jsutter71

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *InfoSeeker*
> 
> The 3-pin (4-pin works fine also) connector IS the aquabus port.


So for the pump itself you don't really need to use both the 3 and 4 pin connections simultaneously.


----------



## Methodical

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jsutter71*
> 
> Yours is better centered then mine. I'm gonna pick up another set of brackets from PPCS and see if they are any better.


When did you purchase your controller and which bracket are you using?


----------



## InfoSeeker

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jsutter71*
> 
> So for the pump itself you don't really need to use both the 3 and 4 pin connections simultaneously.


I think we are talking apples and bananas here.

The aquabus port is a 4-pin port, and is labeled "AQUABUS" on the pump..
According the the aquaero 5/6 manual, the pin-out for the aquabus is...
Pin 1: GND
Pin 2: SDA
Pin 3: SCL
Pin 4: +5 V

Not all aquabus devices require the +5V, and can use a 3-pin aquabus cable.
But you will never go wrong by always using 4-pin aquabus cables.

The 3-pin "TACHO" port is NOT an aquabus port. It is a fake, generated fan RPM signal that can be set to go to zero using the alarm controlling module. Then if connected to the motherboard CPU fan header, and BIOS is set to shut-down on fan failure, allows you to shut the system down under certain alarm conditions.



EDIT: added link to aquaero 5/6 manual.


----------



## Costas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *InfoSeeker*
> 
> the pin-out for the aquabus is...
> Pin 1: GND
> Pin 2: SDA
> Pin 3: SCL
> Pin 4: +5 V
> 
> Not all aquabus devices require the +5V, and can use a 3-pin aquabus cable.
> But you will never go wrong by always using 4-pin aquabus cables.


The only time you can substitute a 3-Pin cable for the 4-Pin is if you have also connected the USB connection. The MPS device can then source +5v via the USB cable.

Ideally you would want to use a 4-Pin cable however if you have lots of spare 3-Pin fan cables and are using the USB connection at the same time - Then that is an option available to the user.


----------



## InfoSeeker

aqausuite 2016-4 goes live...

https://forum.aquacomputer.de/wasserk-hlung/106654-neu-aquasuite-2016-4/


----------



## jsutter71

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Methodical*
> 
> When did you purchase your controller and which bracket are you using?


I bought my Aquaero last October. Here's a link to the brackets I was referring to.
http://www.performance-pcs.com/aquacomputer-aquaero-5-lt-drive-bay-installation-kit.html


----------



## seross69

I know this question has been answered but could not find it doing quick search!! Does aqua suite work under windows 10??


----------



## jsutter71

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *InfoSeeker*
> 
> I think we are talking apples and bananas here.
> 
> The aquabus port is a 4-pin port, and is labeled "AQUABUS" on the pump..
> According the the aquaero 5/6 manual, the pin-out for the aquabus is...
> Pin 1: GND
> Pin 2: SDA
> Pin 3: SCL
> Pin 4: +5 V
> 
> Not all aquabus devices require the +5V, and can use a 3-pin aquabus cable.
> But you will never go wrong by always using 4-pin aquabus cables.
> 
> The 3-pin "TACHO" port is NOT an aquabus port. It is a fake, generated fan RPM signal that can be set to go to zero using the alarm controlling module. Then if connected to the motherboard CPU fan header, and BIOS is set to shut-down on fan failure, allows you to shut the system down under certain alarm conditions.
> 
> 
> 
> EDIT: added link to aquaero 5/6 manual.


The alarm controlling module is in the Aquasuite software? Couldn't yon just set the software to do that anyways in the event of a failure without having to use the TACHO connection? Sounds redundant.


----------



## ozzy1925

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> I know this question has been answered but could not find it doing quick search!! Does aqua suite work under windows 10??


it does


----------



## InfoSeeker

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jsutter71*
> 
> The alarm controlling module is in the Aquasuite software? Couldn't yon just set the software to do that anyways in the event of a failure without having to use the TACHO connection? Sounds redundant.


The D5 USB pump is designed to function without an aquaero, hence the TACHO port. If one also has an aquaero, then yes, there is redundancy for the TACHO port.


----------



## Methodical

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jsutter71*
> 
> I bought my Aquaero last October. Here's a link to the brackets I was referring to.
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/aquacomputer-aquaero-5-lt-drive-bay-installation-kit.html


Are you going to get the Caselab short bracket to mount it in you STH10?


----------



## InfoSeeker

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> I know this question has been answered but could not find it doing quick search!! Does aqua suite work under windows 10??


As ozzy said, but in a picture








\


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ozzy1925*
> 
> it does


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *InfoSeeker*
> 
> As ozzy said, but in a picture
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> \


Thanks a lot guys!!!!!!


----------



## DarthBaggins

That's what I have it running in too btw


----------



## MR-e

Guys I'd like your opinion regarding fan and pump control.

I'm expecting to be using 10 fans, 8 on rads and 2 as air flow within a CaseLabs S8S. My preference would be to find the best noise/performance range and just set it and forget it for all 10 fans and the pump. I currently have a Lamptron FC Touch from previous builds & I think I'll just get regular 3 pin fans and connect them to the Lamptron. I read IT Diva's inquiry a few pages back about the D5 USB and using Aquasuite to control it. Sounds good, but I was wondering, is there an RPM signal I can send the CPU Fan port on the mobo to monitor it and shut the computer down in case of pump failure?

Alternatively, I've been looking into an Aquaero 6 and getting PWM everyting (Pump + Fans) and connecting them the Aquaero. But tbh, it seems a little bit daunting with so many available options and control variables. I'd just like to bleed the system and set everything and forget it without fans and pumps ramping up and down depending on temps. I like a solid, continuous noise compared to constant fluctuations.

Thanks for your opinion everyone


----------



## Barefooter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sexpot*
> 
> Guys I'd like your opinion regarding fan and pump control.
> 
> I'm expecting to be using 10 fans, 8 on rads and 2 as air flow within a CaseLabs S8S. My preference would be to find the best noise/performance range and just set it and forget it for all 10 fans and the pump. I currently have a Lamptron FC Touch from previous builds & I think I'll just get regular 3 pin fans and connect them to the Lamptron. I read IT Diva's inquiry a few pages back about the D5 USB and using Aquasuite to control it. Sounds good, but I was wondering, is there an RPM signal I can send the CPU Fan port on the mobo to monitor it and shut the computer down in case of pump failure?
> 
> Alternatively, I've been looking into an Aquaero 6 and getting PWM everyting (Pump + Fans) and connecting them the Aquaero. But tbh, it seems a little bit daunting with so many available options and control variables. I'd just like to bleed the system and set everything and forget it without fans and pumps ramping up and down depending on temps. I like a solid, continuous noise compared to constant fluctuations.
> 
> Thanks for your opinion everyone


There is a "RPM" plug next to the aquabus high port on the back of the Aquaero, Just plug a cable from there to your motherboard, and it will send a "fake" rpm signal to the motherboard.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sexpot*
> 
> Guys I'd like your opinion regarding fan and pump control.
> 
> I'm expecting to be using 10 fans, 8 on rads and 2 as air flow within a CaseLabs S8S. My preference would be to find the best noise/performance range and just set it and forget it for all 10 fans and the pump. I currently have a Lamptron FC Touch from previous builds & I think I'll just get regular 3 pin fans and connect them to the Lamptron. I read IT Diva's inquiry a few pages back about the D5 USB and using Aquasuite to control it. Sounds good, but I was wondering, is there an RPM signal I can send the CPU Fan port on the mobo to monitor it and shut the computer down in case of pump failure?
> 
> Alternatively, I've been looking into an Aquaero 6 and getting PWM everyting (Pump + Fans) and connecting them the Aquaero. But tbh, it seems a little bit daunting with so many available options and control variables. I'd just like to bleed the system and set everything and forget it without fans and pumps ramping up and down depending on temps. I like a solid, continuous noise compared to constant fluctuations.
> 
> Thanks for your opinion everyone


As stated above, yes.

Also avail with aquaero. Also don't be scared to get the aq6, well worth it!!


----------



## MR-e

Thanks for the update guys! The AQ6 is a definite *want* but it comes as an added expense which I'm currently teetering back and forth with


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sexpot*
> 
> Thanks for the update guys! The AQ6 is a definite *want* but it comes as an added expense which I'm currently teetering back and forth with


There's a TACHO connection on the pump as well, that should satisfy your mobo's CPU fan header requirement and allow shutdown if the pump fails.

No reason not to re-use your FC Touch and maybe go to an Aquaero down the road when funds permit.

D.


----------



## jsutter71

I have a two part question. Based on my setup, consisting of two 480mm Rads in the top chamber, one 360mm in the middle, and one more 360mm in the lower chamber, while using one Aqua Computer D5 pump motor with USB and aquabus interface. Realistically, what type of pressure should I expect to see? And question number two. Aside from redundancy, would their be any additional cooling benefits by adding a second pump same model into the same loop?


----------



## Mega Man

as to flow, no idea,

as to why it is personal pref.

IMO ( emphasis on opinion ) anything more then ~ 2gpus and 1 cpu needs 2 pumps ( not including mobo blocks and ram blocks ect, DO NOT include those as 99% of those do not have high restrictions to worry about


----------



## jsutter71

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> as to flow, no idea,
> 
> as to why it is personal pref.
> 
> IMO ( emphasis on opinion ) anything more then ~ 2gpus and 1 cpu needs 2 pumps ( not including mobo blocks and ram blocks ect, DO NOT include those as 99% of those do not have high restrictions to worry about


Could you clarify why? The reason why I chose this particular pump over, say the Aquastream ultimate for example, was because it's max flow was greater then triple that pump 1500l/h vs <500l/h. The pump I was going to use before I changed my mind was the EK-XTOP Dual DDC 3.2 PWM. That one for example runs at 1000l/h per pump max. I realize the differences between those two and their abilities. Basically I was looking for a logical reason as to why I might need a second pump.


----------



## Mega Man

Well simply put in theory you only need one, but my expertise says I want 2.

Again it is an opinion.

With that said you can not use max flows for anything, Max flows assume zero resistance in loops, you have too look at your loop resistance and the pump curve. Look at pumps on Martin's liquid lab for more info ( heading to work atm or I would do it, sorry )


----------



## Jidonsu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jsutter71*
> 
> Could you clarify why? The reason why I chose this particular pump over, say the Aquastream ultimate for example, was because it's max flow was greater then triple that pump 1500l/h vs <500l/h. The pump I was going to use before I changed my mind was the EK-XTOP Dual DDC 3.2 PWM. That one for example runs at 1000l/h per pump max. I realize the differences between those two and their abilities. Basically I was looking for a logical reason as to why I might need a second pump.


Adding up the restriction of your components, which are two XE 480s, two XE 360s, one EK Supremacy Evo, and three EK full cover blocks, I'm getting roughly 4.8 psi of restriction at 1GPM of flow. Judging from the pressure/flow rate curves, even with the D5 @100%, you're not going to be getting 1GPM. Two pumps will serve you better.


----------



## DMatthewStewart

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jsutter71*
> 
> I have a two part question. Based on my setup, consisting of two 480mm Rads in the top chamber, one 360mm in the middle, and one more 360mm in the lower chamber, while using one Aqua Computer D5 pump motor with USB and aquabus interface. Realistically, what type of pressure should I expect to see? And question number two. Aside from redundancy, would their be any additional cooling benefits by adding a second pump same model into the same loop?


Soooo, youre right on the threshold of needing a second pump. Its a tough call with the 3 gpu blocks and the cpu block.

Let me address your second question first. Two ways to add a second pump. You can have two pumps in one loop or you can have two separate loops (one pump each). Sorry for stating the obvious, just bear with me. Your setup is tough. If I had your set up I would add RAM blocks and mobo clocks. Then I would create two loops. One for GPUs and one for the CPU, RAM, and Mobo blocks (and of course their respective radiators.

However, I am going to assume that you arent adding those extra blocks. So there are two schools of thought for using two pumps. Getting a pump top for housing two pumps or you can do what I have done before...which is: Having a pump at your tube res and then having another identical pump at the point where your flow has the largest vertical climb/lift. What this will do is ensure that the [head] pressure and gpm/lpm your pump(s) are spec'ed to push will stay consistent. Or as close to the specs as possible. Sometimes running two pumps is a little tricky that way. Just make sure to get alphacool one-way check valves (I use two on the second inline pump-one on inlet and one on outlet).

Now, when using hard line tubing there is a little trick that can get you better flow and consistent pressure. And you can really, really push how many rads and blocks you can use with one little pump. Simple trick: 45 degree bends and fittings. I ran my Swiftech MCP50x (one pump) with 3 rads, 2 gpu blocks, cpu, and full cover mobo block no problem. When I had all 90 degree bends and fittings it needed two pumps. With correct fittings and bends I ran a single pump at 40% power. It makes a difference. Especially when there are 90 degrees right outside the pump outlet and especially if you have a high, straight vertical tube that is more than half way through the loop. In fluid dynamics the equation to find fluid head pressure can be derived using the Darcy-Wesbein equation. Unless your using a ton of dye we can safely assume its almost the weight of water. So, height and friction are our biggest enemies. (They always will be). If you want me to elaborate more on this I will. But Ive already created a wall of text here.

My suggestion is this: First, your tubing looks great. But you may want to measure your longest/highest tubes where the fluid is lifted straight up. This is going to be the biggest killer of head pressure. Then check the pumps specs. It will tell you how high it can lift/push water vertically. If you come within 70% of that figure then I would suggest getting a second pump. We have to guesstimate the friction from other smaller lift points and friction from many small bends. And of course there may be friction we arent accounting for from the blocks. Its why I throw the 70% figure out. I should state that the figure that I use is lower. The other option is to hook it all up and run it. That option is always more fun because it gets parts moving, things light up, etc. But before doing that you can install a flow meter and reverse calculate the amount of pressure your getting. This can be a little tough and deceptive at times but its a feasible option


----------



## Mega Man

Using one way check valves on what we do is rarely, if ever, a good suggestion not needed, They are excessively high restriction and in 99% of set ups useless.

The ONLY time I can even comprehend you would want one is to run pumps in parallel. Which almost no one does, for various reasons. Run your pumps in series and you don't need them, and it gives you redundancy


----------



## Costas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DMatthewStewart*
> 
> Having a pump at your tube res and then having another identical pump at the point where your flow has the largest vertical climb/lift. What this will do is ensure that the [head] pressure and gpm/lpm your pump(s) are spec'ed to push will stay consistent.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DMatthewStewart*
> 
> longest/highest tubes where the fluid is lifted straight up. This is going to be the biggest killer of head pressure.


This is only true in an open loop system.

For our closed loop systems the height/climb is totally irrelevant - It is pretty much just the friction losses the fluid needs to overcome.

Same goes for pump placement ie. it does not really matter where its placed in the loop.


----------



## GTXJackBauer

Agree and the sweet spot for water cooling flow is 1.0 - 1.5 GPM no matter how complex the loop is. I prefer single loops as two loops won't don't anything substantial unless you're counting every little penny of a degree difference.

As for jsutter71, I would recommend two pumps in serial. Yes, one pump can run a complex loop like yours but two should get you in that range and add redundancy on a premium rig like yours. Won't know for sure what you're pushing regardless, unless you add a flow meter.

When it comes to the added MB and RAM blocks, it won't do much other than added costs and more restriction to a loop unless its all for looks.


----------



## jsutter71

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GTXJackBauer*
> 
> Agree and the sweet spot for water cooling flow is 1.0 - 1.5 GPM no matter how complex the loop is. I prefer single loops as two loops won't don't anything substantial unless you're counting every little penny of a degree difference.
> 
> As for jsutter71, I would recommend two pumps in serial. Yes, one pump can run a complex loop like yours but two should get you in that range and add redundancy on a premium rig like yours. Won't know for sure what you're pushing regardless, unless you add a flow meter.
> 
> When it comes to the added MB and RAM blocks, it won't do much other than added costs and more restriction to a loop unless its all for looks.


At this point I won't be adding any additional blocks to my system. Also, I'm perfectly fine with 3 980Ti's so I'll leave that alone. I was thinking about all my options, and after reading the responses I think I'll add a second Aqua computer D5. Same version as the one I have now. I do have a couple flow meters which I'll also be incorporating into the loop. As far as bends and turns, I have no 90 degree angles in my loop. Almost all my bends that I have made are in the tubing itself. the With the exception of the top compartment, I have used no angled fittings. Throughout this build, I have almost mastered the ability to make proper angles within the tubing itself. Anyways, here is a picture of the top compartment with the angled fittings. I have some more tubing arriving tomorrow, so I'll likely replace that one as well.


----------



## wa3pnt

You really have me baffled on this post.

You state you have used no 90 degree fittings, and then show the picture of two 90 degree rotaries from the radiator to what appears to be the midplate.

RodeoGeorge


----------



## Mega Man

https://martinsliquidlab.wordpress.com/2011/01/30/fittings-and-elbow-impacts/

I'll leave this here about fittings, I feel it is very informative. Although I will note it was before hard tubing.

One thing we have in air-conditioning is long radius 90s I wish we had them in water cooling, the closest we have is triple rotories

With that said 2×45s is 1×90.. in terms of restriction


----------



## MR-e

Thanks everyone for answering my question regarding the D5 USB. Now onto the next question...









With the AQ6, if I connect 8~10 PWM fans to it and the AQ D5 PWM, I take it I can configure the AQ6 to relay the D5 rpm to the mobo head by itself? Is it possible to control the PWM fans independently of the D5 PWM pump?


----------



## Mega Man

You have 4 different pwm channels.

You can program all 4 channels to be independent or the same or any mixture there in.

Your aquaero has a port labeled RPM that will send out a pseudo RPM signal (not the pump, but it *the aquaero* will see the pump rpm)

You can then program levels of alarms and what said alarm does. Including killing the pseudo RPM signal to the mobo if the pump dies


----------



## InfoSeeker

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sexpot*
> 
> Thanks everyone for answering my question regarding the D5 USB. Now onto the next question...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With the AQ6, if I connect 8~10 PWM fans to it and the AQ D5 PWM, I take it I can configure the AQ6 to relay the D5 rpm to the mobo head by itself? Is it possible to control the PWM fans independently of the D5 PWM pump?


Kinda no, but yes and yes.

You cannot relay the actual D5 RPM to the mobo fan header, but you can connect the TACHO port to the mobo fan header, which generates a faux RPM that can be set to zero with the alarm module.

And yes, you can control the pump separately from the fans. There are 4 fan ports available, all of which can be set to PWM control. One would be connected to the pump and the other 3 ports can be split between the fans.

EDIT: ninja'd


----------



## MR-e

Thanks Mega Man! The pseudo RPM channel being sent to the mobo can be configured as such that if the pump dies, the mobo will recognize it and shut down?

Edit - Oh dear, oh dear, oh dearrrr... the more I read, the more AQ stuff I add to the basket


----------



## Mega Man

Yes, I hit reply before I was done you might refresh and check again my reply as there is a bit more info


----------



## jsutter71

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wa3pnt*
> 
> You really have me baffled on this post.
> 
> You state you have used no 90 degree fittings, and then show the picture of two 90 degree rotaries from the radiator to what appears to be the midplate.
> 
> RodeoGeorge


This is what a 90 degree fitting is


What I am showing is two 2X45 degree fittings.


----------



## Mega Man

And yet as shown in the link from martins liquid lab, 2x45s IS equal to 1x90 restriction wise


----------



## Costas

[/quote]
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> And yet as shown in the link from martins liquid lab, 2x45s IS equal to 1x90 restriction wise


1st grade Maths 45 + 45 = 90 .....


----------



## jsutter71

I just purchased a second D5 pump motor with USB and aquabus interface from PPCS. I'm going to incorporate it into the existing loop. Now for the next question. Where to mount it? I would appreciate any suggestions. I will be using the same pump top minus the reservoir. I'm thinking about moving the existing pump over and mounting the second pump next to the first one. I also purchased a Delta 1000 pressure sensor. I finished up the plumbing in the top chamber, and fixed a couple sections in the main compartment.


----------



## jsutter71

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Costas*


1st grade Maths 45 + 45 = 90 .....







[/quote]

Obviously. The issue at hand is the degree of the angle. A 90 degree fitting has a sharp angle compared to using two 45 degree angles which don't. Now You can't really tell in the picture I posted but the fittings I'm using are twisted so their not angled directly at 90 degrees. Also, my current flow will be traveling at a downward angle through those fittings.


----------



## Mega Man

FYI, up or down does not matter in a loop

For every bit it drops it Also must go up, open loops are a bit different


----------



## jsutter71

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> FYI, up or down does not matter in a loop
> 
> For every bit it drops it Also must go up, open loops are a bit different


I read the post that you linked. Good information. After reading it, I feel confident in my design. I'm only using two angled fittings in my entire loop. On a side note, I've realized that fittings make your loop seem less stable. In my last build I used a lot of extenders and angled fittings which enabled movement between the blocks and Rads. That might be ok with soft tubing, but it's not something I wanted with hard tubing. With my current build, I have zero movement. It feels much more stable.


----------



## jsutter71

Question. If you used a splitter cable like the Aquabus splitter, wold it be possible to connect two Aquacomputer RGB lighting modules to the Aquaero 6XT's RGB connector?


----------



## Shoggy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jsutter71*
> 
> Question. If you used a splitter cable like the Aquabus splitter, wold it be possible to connect two Aquacomputer RGB lighting modules to the Aquaero 6XT's RGB connector?


No, this port is designed to be used with *one* LED. More will overload it.


----------



## hyp36rmax

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> No, this port is designed to be used with *one* LED. More will overload it.


It can be connected to the Farbwerk thought right?


----------



## apw63

I installed 2016-4 over 2016-3 and kept my setting. Now when system reboots 2016-3 loads, if I close it and open by desktop icon 2016-4 loads. Should I have not kept setting during install, then imported save back in? Would a reinstall with is method solve my reboot 2016-3 reboot issue?


----------



## DarthBaggins

I would do an export of your settings, uninstall Aquasuite, then do a fresh install of 2016-4


----------



## Jflisk

Is the new firmware for the Aquarero supposed to be 2008 . I have the 2016-4 loaded but firmware is still showing 2007 with no update. Thanks

Never mind just got my answer. The firmware is for another device not the aqua computer itself.


----------



## RDKing2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hyp36rmax*
> 
> It can be connected to the Farbwerk thought right?


The farbwek will control multiple led's or strips. It is connected via usb or aquabus though.


----------



## InfoSeeker

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *apw63*
> 
> I installed 2016-4 over 2016-3 and kept my setting. Now when system reboots 2016-3 loads, if I close it and open by desktop icon 2016-4 loads. Should I have not kept setting during install, then imported save back in? Would a reinstall with is method solve my reboot 2016-3 reboot issue?


Yes, you did right keeping the settings.

Perhaps your 2016-3 version did not install to the same folder as your 2016-4.

Right click on the desktop icon that starts the 2014-4 2016-4 version and see what the path is to "aqausuite.exe".
Then open the Task Scheduler and make sure the "aquasuite autostart" tab action tab has the same path, or change it if not.


Edit: corrected version number


----------



## Shoggy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hyp36rmax*
> 
> It can be connected to the Farbwerk thought right?


Not this LED. The RGB LED for the aquaero works with a common cathode while the farbwerk requires a common anode.


----------



## hyp36rmax

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> Not this LED. The RGB LED for the aquaero works with a common cathode while the farbwerk requires a common anode.


What i meant was can the Farbwerk connect to the Aquaero 6 XT? How does that work?


----------



## electro2u

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> And yet as shown in the link from martins liquid lab, 2x45s IS equal to 1x90 restriction wise


Heya MM,

Just curious you guys, looks like that particular BP 90 would create a lot more turbulance than the dual 45 example. I don't know if this would equal more restriction but my instinct is yes.

The reasoning behind is that the overall angle may be 90 but the ARC is much different. gentle sloping should equal greater flow.


----------



## GTXJackBauer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hyp36rmax*
> 
> What i meant was can the Farbwerk connect to the Aquaero 6 XT? How does that work?


You can purchase a farbwerk that is either USB/Aquabus (to the AQ) or Bluetooth or both, obviously picking only one of the two connections. I can't think of the specs to the farbwerk but it surely can handle a good amount of strips to it and you can always purchase more farbs and chain them via aquabus if needed.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> Heya MM,
> 
> Just curious you guys, looks like that particular BP 90 would create a lot more turbulance than the dual 45 example. I don't know if this would equal more restriction but my instinct is yes.
> 
> The reasoning behind is that the overall angle may be 90 but the ARC is much different. gentle sloping should equal greater flow.


As long as you have single or dual premium pumps, depending how complex the loop is, shouldn't have an issue. Whatever it takes to get to 1.0-1.5 GPM is what is needed to be focused on.

For example, I use 6 90s and a mix of 45s and 60s at a total of 3 and the rest are straights with a mix of extenders. I run two MCP-35Xs in serial, straight from the reservoir. I achieve 1.0 GPM at 40% PWM in a 900D case with a CPU, 2 GPUs and 120.9/1080m of total rad. Of course a flow meter helps having one to let you know where your flow stands.


----------



## RDKing2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hyp36rmax*
> 
> What i meant was can the Farbwerk connect to the Aquaero 6 XT? How does that work?


There is a USB/bluetooth version and a USB/Aquabus version last I saw. To connect to the Aquaero you would use the aquabus. Up to two farbwerk devices can be connected via aquabus. Once connected to the computer via USB or aquabus it can be controlled with the aquasuite software. The bluetooth version allows control by an app as well.


----------



## MR-e

Hey guys, kind of off topic but, would I be ordering the right part if I want to mount an Aqualis PRO res to a rad with the mounting set for aqualis D5/DDC?

Aqualis Pro


----------



## hyp36rmax

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GTXJackBauer*
> 
> *You can purchase a farbwerk that is either USB or Aquabus (to the AQ) or both, obviously picking only one of the two connections. I can't think of the specs to the farbwerk but it surely can handle a good amount of strips to it and you can always purchase more farbs and chain them via aquabus if needed.*
> As long as you have single or dual premium pumps, depending how complex the loop is, shouldn't have an issue. Whatever it takes to get to 1.0-1.5 GPM is what is needed to be focused on.
> 
> For example, I use 6 90s and a mix of 45s and 60s at a total of 3 and the rest are straights with a mix of extenders. I run two MCP-35Xs in serial, straight from the reservoir. I achieve 1.0 GPM at 40% PWM in a 900D case with a CPU, 2 GPUs and 120.9/1080m of total rad. Of course a flow meter helps having one to let you know where your flow stands.


I purchased a USB/Bluetooth Farbwerk last summer. Been using it for a while actually. Not really a big deal, but i would need the Aquabus version to connect it directly to the 6XT right?


----------



## RDKing2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hyp36rmax*
> 
> I purchased a USB/Bluetooth Farbwerk last summer. Been using it for a while actually. Not really a big deal, but i would need the Aquabus version to connect it directly to the 6XT right?


Yes, but you would lose bluetooth and gain no more control of it through aquasuite. Not sure on the farbwerk but some devices have less control through aquabus than with usb. What aquabus allows is control directly through the aquaero with no software running.


----------



## hyp36rmax

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RDKing2*
> 
> Yes, but you would lose bluetooth and gain no more control of it through aquasuite. Not sure on the farbwerk but some devices have less control through aquabus than with usb. What aquabus allows is control directly through the aquaero with no software running.


Got it! Thanks!


----------



## InfoSeeker

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RDKing2*
> 
> Yes, but you would lose bluetooth and gain no more control of it through aquasuite. Not sure on the farbwerk but some devices have less control through aquabus than with usb. What aquabus allows is control directly through the aquaero with no software running.


The farbwerk USB, Bluetooth and aquabus model has all 3 communication channels.


----------



## seross69

If you are worried about fittings and restructions then just get a bigger pump!!


----------



## GTXJackBauer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hyp36rmax*
> 
> I purchased a USB/Bluetooth Farbwerk last summer. Been using it for a while actually. Not really a big deal, but i would need the Aquabus version to connect it directly to the 6XT right?


I should have been more specific. There's a Aquabus/USB version and a bluetooth version as already stated by a member. They have a newer "revision 2" where both are enabled on the Farbwerk that can be used that I purchased straight from Germany. Remember that the wireless bluetooth app is compatible with Android devices only.

You use the Aquabus 3-pin cable that is included with the AQ 6 to connect it to. IIRC, I first connected it via USB and changed the settings in aqua suite, under the Farbwerk tab for the AQ 6 to take control of it. Can't recall exactly word for word but its pretty simple. I than disconnected the USB and connected the Farbwerk via 3-pin cable to the AQ 6 aquabus high and wallah.


----------



## RDKing2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *InfoSeeker*
> 
> The farbwerk USB, Bluetooth and aquabus model has all 3 communication channels.


Guess I should have looked at the current offerings. Looks like the revision 2 bluetooth model added the aquabus as well. Obviously if hyp36rmax has the rev2 he can simply hook the aquabus up as well.


----------



## DarthBaggins

Anyone know of any versions of Aquasuite that run in Linux (preferably Debian Distros)? Trying not to have to use Wine/PlayOnLinux


----------



## Vipercat

hey.

Question?

I hive the aquastream ultimate/USB pump and aquaero 6 XT USB fan controller, graphic LCD, touch control, IR remote control

software 2016-4. when i run aquasuite, i can see aquastream ultimate. In the menu for aquastream ultimate dose no way to create profile setting. Only in aquaero 6-XT.

How to create profile to save my setting for aquastream ultimate/USB.

thanks



IN WIN 909 black


----------



## RDKing2

Have not used my Aquastream pump for a long time. Have it on ebay right now, did not work out for me as my loop expanded. Anyway if profiles are available they will be under the system tab for the device. I would wager only one profile is available if any. If you are using an AQ6 the profiles you create there will contain all the settings you set for connected devices.


----------



## Lynkdev

Currently own an XT usb with remote and have a couple questions.

Whats the latest FW for this device? mine is showing 2006?

Also, i have 33 noise blocker NB Eloop PWM B12-P fans connected to splitters and to the 4 headers. The readout says all fans are at 100%, but my comp is pretty quiet. These fans get up to 28 dcb and i'm starting to think the readout is wrong as these are in push pull.

http://www.amazon.com/Noiseblocker-NB-eLoop-120mmx25mm-Silent-Bionic/dp/B008RO6640

I have the latest software and wondering if i could grab pre made profiles from somewhere to load?


----------



## iBruce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lynkdev*
> 
> Currently own an XT usb with remote and have a couple questions.
> 
> Whats the latest FW for this device? mine is showing 2006?
> 
> Also, i have 33 noise blocker NB Eloop PWM B12-P fans connected to splitters and to the 4 headers. The readout says all fans are at 100%, but my comp is pretty quiet. These fans get up to 28 dcb and i'm starting to think the readout is wrong as these are in push pull.
> 
> http://www.amazon.com/Noiseblocker-NB-eLoop-120mmx25mm-Silent-Bionic/dp/B008RO6640
> 
> I have the latest software and wondering if i could grab pre made profiles from somewhere to load?


I have FW 2007.

on my XT and my LT.


----------



## GTXJackBauer

Quote:


> Changelog for aquasuite software 2016-3 to 2016-4
> Bugfix: sporadic crash of the Aqua Computer service
> Bugfix: aquasuite crash with wrong chart configurations
> Bugfix: several problems with AIDA64 Plugin
> 
> Firmware 2008 for aquaduct
> Bugfix: Touch controller does not work corretly (fix for firmware 2007)


Source

For the AQ 6 Pro/XT, the latest Aquasuite software is 2016-4 with Firmware 2007. Firmware 2008 is only for aquaduct.


----------



## Lynkdev

copy thanks.

I noticed under my fans that they only run at 10.4 volts but rated at 12v. Im using a AX 1200i. Could this be why they dont sound as loud? how would i get them up to 12v or is that just because i have 4 headers split between 33 fans?


----------



## GTXJackBauer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lynkdev*
> 
> copy thanks.
> 
> I noticed under my fans that they only run at 10.4 volts but rated at 12v. Im using a AX 1200i. Could this be why they dont sound as loud? how would i get them up to 12v or is that just because i have 4 headers split between 33 fans?


Could be a number of things.

Are each channels being demanded within spec?

Have you checked the channel temp to be within spec as well? They have a pretty high tolerance.

Too many splitters and extenders can weaken the PWM signal which would leave the gear running at 100% by default. Make sure that isn't happening. Test it out with half of it and see where it goes. If you get complete control, that should answer your issue.


----------



## Lynkdev

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GTXJackBauer*
> 
> Could be a number of things.
> 
> Are each channels being demanded within spec?
> 
> Have you checked the channel temp to be within spec as well? They have a pretty high tolerance.
> 
> Too many splitters and extenders can weaken the PWM signal which would leave the gear running at 100% by default. Make sure that isn't happening. Test it out with half of it and see where it goes. If you get complete control, that should answer your issue.


How do i know if each channel is being demanded within spec?

channel temps on amps are under 44c each.

I'm using 4 splitters each with 8 headers.

I have the passive heat sink installed as well.

my power consumption tab shows 0 for some reason.

If i bring down the control on splitters 1 and 2 to 0 that should be the same as disconnecting right?


----------



## Willius

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cyber Locc*
> 
> To do what you are wanting you simply need to get fan connector pins and a crimper. Take the 12v and the Ground from the molex and wire them to the Fan pins, and pop them in there respective places.


So I performed this mod a few days ago, everything went well. Was very easy.

But! Left me wondering. How would I go about and fill the loop without using the molex? Maybe I should dig into the AQ6 XT manual to see if there is something that makes me wiser. Of course I want to leak test etc without powering the mobo. But I guess I can control the pump speed without aqua suite?


----------



## iBruce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lynkdev*
> 
> copy thanks.
> 
> I noticed under my fans that they only run at 10.4 volts but rated at 12v. Im using a AX 1200i. Could this be why they dont sound as loud? *how would i get them up to 12v or is that just because i have 4 headers split between 33 fans?*


The eLoops are very airflow sensitive fans, honestly you can place a Demciflex filter in front of them and they fall on their face, rpms drop about 150rpms, and more importantly airflow drops to almost nothing.

RPMs and airflow do not scale in a linear fashion with my eLoop 140mm PWMs, they work extremely well in *unobstructed PUSH configuration*, that's how I'm using my (2), but in PULL ONLY or PUSH/PULL the PULL side does little or nothing at all. (except look extremely nice)

I love the fans, would not use anything else with my Hardware Labs Multiport 280 (low FPI of 9) in PUSH ONLY, they are most likely the best choice for an inaudible low fan rotation rig, but you must be aware of their severe restrictions.

As far as how many you can run from a single A6 channel and maintain maximum RPMs and voltage to each fan, I would refer that question to the great IT DIVA.

Give us some awesome photos of your eLoops in action, please.









Mine tested inaudible up to 75%PWR at normal sitting distance, using a single Aquaero 6 LT channel.


----------



## Killa Cam

bout see what dat thang do


----------



## DerComissar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Killa Cam*
> 
> 
> 
> bout see what dat thang do


----------



## Cozmo85

A few months after buying my aquaero. I just love it so much. One of the best purchases ever.


----------



## DMatthewStewart

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Costas*
> 
> This is only true in an open loop system.
> 
> For our closed loop systems the height/climb is totally irrelevant - It is pretty much just the friction losses the fluid needs to overcome.
> 
> Same goes for pump placement ie. it does not really matter where its placed in the loop.


Uh, what? If height doesnt matter then why does every manufacture list it as a restriction? Are you saying that friction does not matter in our systems? That means that we have magically learned how to suspend:

1) Laws of gravity

2) Laws of thermal dynamics

3) Laws of fluid dynamics

Also, what is an "open loop system"? As far as I know, an "open" loop is just a garden hose

If anything you said is right then we can also disregard the tests and results from Martin's Liquid Lab. Im sorry, but you are 100% wrong in your above statement and challenge you to prove it. Stop giving people false information.

Almost everyone on this forum knows it (except for you) And you obviously didnt even check OCN before making such a blatantly ignorant comment

http://www.overclock.net/t/1395198/do-90-degree-bends-in-loops-actually-affect-cooling/0_30 <--BTW, Martin's link is in there (I saved you from having to google it)


----------



## DMatthewStewart

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cozmo85*
> 
> A few months after buying my aquaero. I just love it so much. One of the best purchases ever.


Me too. I love it as much as my cpu and my gpu's. I never thought I could like something like a fan controller so much!


----------



## RDKing2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DMatthewStewart*
> 
> Uh, what? If height doesnt matter then why does every manufacture list it as a restriction? Are you saying that friction does not matter in our systems? That means that we have magically learned how to suspend:
> 
> 1) Laws of gravity
> 
> 2) Laws of thermal dynamics
> 
> 3) Laws of fluid dynamics
> 
> Also, what is an "open loop system"? As far as I know, an "open" loop is just a garden hose
> 
> If anything you said is right then we can also disregard the tests and results from Martin's Liquid Lab. Im sorry, but you are 100% wrong in your above statement and challenge you to prove it. Stop giving people false information.
> 
> Almost everyone on this forum knows it (except for you) And you obviously didnt even check OCN before making such a blatantly ignorant comment
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1395198/do-90-degree-bends-in-loops-actually-affect-cooling/0_30 <--BTW, Martin's link is in there (I saved you from having to google it)


Not sure what the link to how 90 degree bends applies to what Costas said? Of course a 90 degree bend is more resrtictive than a straight section. You are not understanding the loop physics. The loop is not an open garden hose into a bucket. Do you see air in any of the loop pipes or hoses? No, at least there should not be. So.....the downhill sections essentially cancel out the uphill sections. The only thing the pump has to overcome is restriction by components. The lift height is a standard rating for pumps is why most manufacturers list it as a spec.


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DMatthewStewart*
> 
> Uh, what? If height doesnt matter then why does every manufacture list it as a restriction? Are you saying that friction does not matter in our systems? That means that we have magically learned how to suspend:
> 
> 1) Laws of gravity
> 
> 2) Laws of thermal dynamics
> 
> 3) Laws of fluid dynamics
> 
> Also, what is an "open loop system"? As far as I know, an "open" loop is just a garden hose
> 
> If anything you said is right then we can also disregard the tests and results from Martin's Liquid Lab. Im sorry, but you are 100% wrong in your above statement and challenge you to prove it. Stop giving people false information.
> 
> Almost everyone on this forum knows it (except for you) And you obviously didnt even check OCN before making such a blatantly ignorant comment
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1395198/do-90-degree-bends-in-loops-actually-affect-cooling/0_30 <--BTW, Martin's link is in there (I saved you from having to google it)


Think you need to do some more reading and research.

you need to look up the difference between a open loop and a closed loop. there are a lot of open loops being used and they are quiet common.

A filter system on a pool is a type of open loop.. The cooling system on your car is a open loop.. you use closed loops to prevent contamination of the system!!

a Garden hose really is not a loop it is a discharge from a closed loop. I am afraid you are not understanding correctly what you are reading!


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DMatthewStewart*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Costas*
> 
> This is only true in an open loop system.
> 
> For our closed loop systems the height/climb is totally irrelevant - It is pretty much just the friction losses the fluid needs to overcome.
> 
> Same goes for pump placement ie. it does not really matter where its placed in the loop.
> 
> 
> 
> Uh, what? If height doesnt matter then why does every manufacture list it as a restriction? Are you saying that friction does not matter in our systems? That means that we have magically learned how to suspend:
> 
> 1) Laws of gravity
> 
> 2) Laws of thermal dynamics
> 
> 3) Laws of fluid dynamics
> 
> Also, what is an "open loop system"? As far as I know, an "open" loop is just a garden hose
> 
> If anything you said is right then we can also disregard the tests and results from Martin's Liquid Lab. Im sorry, but you are 100% wrong in your above statement and challenge you to prove it. Stop giving people false information.
> 
> Almost everyone on this forum knows it (except for you) And you obviously didnt even check OCN before making such a blatantly ignorant comment
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1395198/do-90-degree-bends-in-loops-actually-affect-cooling/0_30 <--BTW, Martin's link is in there (I saved you from having to google it)
Click to expand...

Well, time for you to take your own advice, you are flat out wrong.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *DMatthewStewart*
> 
> Uh, what? If height doesnt matter then why does every manufacture list it as a restriction? Are you saying that friction does not matter in our systems? That means that we have magically learned how to suspend:
> 
> 1) Laws of gravity
> 
> 2) Laws of thermal dynamics
> 
> 3) Laws of fluid dynamics
> 
> Also, what is an "open loop system"? As far as I know, an "open" loop is just a garden hose
> 
> If anything you said is right then we can also disregard the tests and results from Martin's Liquid Lab. Im sorry, but you are 100% wrong in your above statement and challenge you to prove it. Stop giving people false information.
> 
> Almost everyone on this forum knows it (except for you) And you obviously didnt even check OCN before making such a blatantly ignorant comment
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1395198/do-90-degree-bends-in-loops-actually-affect-cooling/0_30 <--BTW, Martin's link is in there (I saved you from having to google it)
> 
> 
> 
> Think you need to do some more reading and research.
> 
> you need to look up the difference between a open loop and a closed loop. there are a lot of open loops being used and they are quiet common.
> 
> A filter system on a pool is a type of open loop.. The cooling system on your car is a open loop.. you use closed loops to prevent contamination of the system!!
> 
> a Garden hose really is not a loop it is a discharge from a closed loop. I am afraid you are not understanding correctly what you are reading!
Click to expand...

Again he is correct (seross)


----------



## ruffhi

@DMatthewStewart ... ever used a siphon hose? You drain liquid from one container to a lower container using a hose. The hose can go up so that it is much, much higher than both contains ... and it will still drain. Providing the hose is completely full of liquid (ie closed).

From the wikipedia quoted above ..._There are two leading theories about how siphons cause liquid to flow uphill, against gravity, without being pumped, and powered only by gravity ..._


----------



## MR-e

Hey guys, when using a Dual (series) D5 setup, what's the best AQ D5 to be used with an AQ6? Do I get two D5 PWM's and connect each to one of the 4 headers? Or can I do a PWM splitter to one header and connect both pumps to it?

For example, I'm thinking of getting the EK-XTOP Revo Dual D5 and replacing the EK Pumps with AQ and connecting both to an AQ6. What's the best means of controlling them?

Thanks!!


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sexpot*
> 
> Hey guys, when using a Dual (series) D5 setup, what's the best AQ D5 to be used with an AQ6? Do I get two D5 PWM's and connect each to one of the 4 headers? Or can I do a PWM splitter to one header and connect both pumps to it?
> 
> For example, I'm thinking of getting the EK-XTOP Revo Dual D5 and replacing the EK Pumps with AQ and connecting both to an AQ6. What's the best means of controlling them?
> 
> Thanks!!


Personally I would get the USB/ Aquabus pumps..


----------



## MR-e

How does the connections go for installing 2x AQ D5 USB to the Aquaero?


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sexpot*
> 
> How does the connections go for installing 2x AQ D5 USB to the Aquaero?


Use a y cable and join them to the aquabus on the aquaero


----------



## Mega Man

I agree with seross


----------



## InfoSeeker

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sexpot*
> 
> Hey guys, when using a Dual (series) D5 setup, what's the best AQ D5 to be used with an AQ6? Do I get two D5 PWM's and connect each to one of the 4 headers? Or can I do a PWM splitter to one header and connect both pumps to it?
> 
> For example, I'm thinking of getting the EK-XTOP Revo Dual D5 and replacing the EK Pumps with AQ and connecting both to an AQ6. What's the best means of controlling them?
> 
> Thanks!!


As serros and Mega Man said.
And in my humble opinion, pumps should be set and forgotten. Find you sweet spot and leave em.

[rant]PWM controlled pumps are a POOR selection, and waste a PWM control port.
All the more reason the EK policy of bundling PWM pumps with their dual tops is dumb.[/rant]


----------



## willemdoom

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *InfoSeeker*
> 
> As serros and Mega Man said.
> And in my humble opinion, pumps should be set and forgotten. Find you sweet spot and leave em.
> 
> [rant]PWM controlled pumps are a POOR selection, and waste a PWM control port.
> All the more reason the EK policy of bundling PWM pumps with their dual tops is dumb.[/rant]


So which D5 would you suggest using?


----------



## Costas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DMatthewStewart*
> 
> If anything you said is right then we can also disregard the tests and results from Martin's Liquid Lab. Im sorry, but you are 100% wrong in your above statement and challenge you to prove it. Stop giving people false information.
> 
> Almost everyone on this forum knows it (except for you) And you obviously didnt even check OCN before making such a blatantly ignorant comment


Sigh...

Another noob at PC watercooling...

I guess all the other posters who posted above also have no idea....









Sounds like you are simply confusing pump specs which are given for a system that is not much different to when a hose is simply connected to the pump and its asked to pump the fluid up vertically to an open end. This is NOT how our PC loops operate!

Vs

A closed loop whereby the hose is brought back down again and connected to the input of the pump. Here the internal fluid forces due to gravity cancel each other out so the pump is not actually pushing water just uphill so to speak. This IS how our PC loops operate!

As I stated before if we ignore internal friction losses for the moment - Height becomes irrelevant unless it is an open loop system...!

BTW - If you still don't believe me or the other posters above this post - check this thread out where a couple of guys actually performed this very same test out using a long length of hose and a pump.... http://forums.overclockers.com.au/showthread.php?t=1188897


----------



## InfoSeeker

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *willemdoom*
> 
> So which D5 would you suggest using?


As serros and Mega Man, I personally prefer the aquacomputer D5 USB/aquabus version for the ability to set the pump without opening your computer. But if cost were a concern, I would go with a D5 Vario from whomever had the best price.


----------



## Costas

Damn USB D5's.....

I have 2 brand new D5 USB pumps.

I just filled my new build yesterday and proceeded to check for leaks and put the rig through some tests. However after running sweet for a few hours one of my D5 USB pumps has now developed a fault with its USB/Aquabus interface and I can no longer 'talk' to it via USB or Aquabus. The other one is still doing fine. The pump itself is still working but its fixed at some default speed which is not 100% (assume its 60% like other D5's).

Probably a question for Shoggy, but can we source the internal D5 USB/Aquabus interface board direct from Aquqcomputer and replace it ourselves? Really not worth sending the whole pump back and forth to Aquacomputer in Germany.


----------



## jsutter71

Questions about the Molex power connectors on the Aquaero D5 pumps. Has anyone ever modded their pumps Molex power connectors from M to F? I am using a Bitspower X-station with M connectors for all my Aquearo devices. Instead of using F to F adapter plugs, I would like to Mod the power cables from M to F for the pumps, and the power cables I'm using for the other Aquaero devices from M to F to F to F. Since I'm new to cable modding, I'd like to hear if anyone else has done this before I make the change. Any issues?


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jsutter71*
> 
> Questions about the Molex power connectors on the Aquaero D5 pumps. Has anyone ever modded their pumps Molex power connectors from M to F? I am using a Bitspower X-station with M connectors for all my Aquearo devices. Instead of using F to F adapter plugs, I would like to Mod the power cables from M to F for the pumps, and the power cables I'm using for the other Aquaero devices from M to F to F to F. Since I'm new to cable modding, I'd like to hear if anyone else has done this before I make the change. Any issues?


Have not done that exact thing but have changed molex pins from m to f and other as needed!!


----------



## jsutter71

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> Have not done that exact thing but have changed molex pins from m to f and other as needed!!


I just went and did a test mod with a spare cable I had laying around. I've fried to many PC parts in the past using Molex connectors.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jsutter71*
> 
> Questions about the Molex power connectors on the Aquaero D5 pumps. Has anyone ever modded their pumps Molex power connectors from M to F? I am using a Bitspower X-station with M connectors for all my Aquearo devices. Instead of using F to F adapter plugs, I would like to Mod the power cables from M to F for the pumps, and the power cables I'm using for the other Aquaero devices from M to F to F to F. Since I'm new to cable modding, I'd like to hear if anyone else has done this before I make the change. Any issues?


No and it can not really cause issues.

Worst case you plug something that needs power to it. ... and nothing happens (you can't take power from something that does not have it) assuming you wire it correctly

And just for the rants sake....

It is not a "molex connector"

Molex is a company that makes and designs connectors and pins and whatnot. Not a connector,

Furthermore the connector on question was not even designed nor worked on by molex, it was a different company AMP and the connector series is a Mate N Lok


----------



## jsutter71

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> No and it can not really cause issues.
> 
> Worst case you plug something that needs power to it. ... and nothing happens (you can't take power from something that does not have it) assuming you wire it correctly
> 
> And just for the rants sake....
> 
> It is not a "molex connector"
> 
> Molex is a company that makes and designs connectors and pins and whatnot. Not a connector,
> 
> Furthermore the connector on question was not even designed nor worked on by molex, it was a different company AMP and the connector series is a Mate N Lok


Yes I'm aware that Molex is a the companies name, but everyone knows what your talking about if you say Molex connector instead of 4 pin or 2 pin power connector. Regardless. I realize that for the power supply it's only 2 connections. 5 volt power and ground, but for the other Aquaero products that use all 4 wires it does make a difference. Probably not a good idea to switch the 5 volt with the 12 volt connector. I noticed that the orientation of the connector is opposite for M to F then it is for F to F.

When it comes to wiring my home, I'm fairly competent using Romex wire and performing electrical work. Saved a ton of money not having to hire electricians . When it comes to PC power cable modifications however. That's a different story. Thankfully I've learned a lot from youtube videos. Also, I keep a spare power supply handy to test my work.


----------



## Willius

If I recall correctly, I thought I read something about a PCB fan splitter made by Aquacomputer. Is there any ETA on it?

I have Modmytoys fan splitters currently. But I would like something that has better quality.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jsutter71*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> No and it can not really cause issues.
> 
> Worst case you plug something that needs power to it. ... and nothing happens (you can't take power from something that does not have it) assuming you wire it correctly
> 
> And just for the rants sake....
> 
> It is not a "molex connector"
> 
> Molex is a company that makes and designs connectors and pins and whatnot. Not a connector,
> 
> Furthermore the connector on question was not even designed nor worked on by molex, it was a different company AMP and the connector series is a Mate N Lok
> 
> 
> 
> Yes I'm aware that Molex is a the companies name, but everyone knows what your talking about if you say Molex connector instead of 4 pin or 2 pin power connector. Regardless. I realize that for the power supply it's only 2 connections. 5 volt power and ground, but for the other Aquaero products that use all 4 wires it does make a difference. Probably not a good idea to switch the 5 volt with the 12 volt connector. I noticed that the orientation of the connector is opposite for M to F then it is for F to F.
> 
> When it comes to wiring my home, I'm fairly competent using Romex wire and performing electrical work. Saved a ton of money not having to hire electricians . When it comes to PC power cable modifications however. That's a different story. Thankfully I've learned a lot from youtube videos. Also, I keep a spare power supply handy to test my work.
Click to expand...

You don't need you tube, just use pics of the adapters, most are color coded.

Imo easiest way is to rewire it and verify off of something else with digital multi meter
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Willius*
> 
> If I recall correctly, I thought I read something about a PCB fan splitter made by Aquacomputer. Is there any ETA on it?
> 
> I have Modmytoys fan splitters currently. But I would like something that has better quality.


AFAIK none are in existence or being made


----------



## willemdoom

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> AFAIK none are in existence or being made


They aqua computer rep said they will be coming with a splitter in the coming months, its somewhere in this thread


----------



## Mystriss

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jsutter71*
> 
> Questions about the Molex power connectors on the Aquaero D5 pumps. Has anyone ever modded their pumps Molex power connectors from M to F? I am using a Bitspower X-station with M connectors for all my Aquearo devices. Instead of using F to F adapter plugs, I would like to Mod the power cables from M to F for the pumps, and the power cables I'm using for the other Aquaero devices from M to F to F to F. Since I'm new to cable modding, I'd like to hear if anyone else has done this before I make the change. Any issues?


I recall how concerning it was to change out my first connector







Changing from male to female is just fine, all you have to do is make sure you get the wires in the right spots and four pin Molex's are the easiest to start with too; the de-pining is far easier and there's actually only 3 "lines" to remember on the connection!

A 4 pin molex has a 12 volt line, a 5 volt line, and two ground (or GND) lines; often these are color-coded (12v yellow, 5v red, grounds black) however they are not always colored, nor are the colors themselves necessarily the same from one connector to another (For example, 5v is often an orange wire, not red, etc.) Thus, the best practice if you're replacing /any/ connector is not to rely on colors, instead one should rely on the pin positions themselves. To figure out the pin positions, let us have a look at these two images:

 

Notice the direction of the male connectors angled edges in the first picture, they're facing right yea? Pin one on the top is the 12v line, pin 4 on the bottom is the 5v line, and the two center pins are grounds. This is the pin-out on both your x-station's male connectors /and/ your pump's stock male connector.

Now look at the second picture, the male connector's angled edges are facing down here, and the female's angled edges are facing up; they're opposite. Imagine plugging the female connector to the male connector in the second picture; notice the relationship of the wires; the yellow 12v on the male would be connected to the yellow 12v on the female, right? Same is true for the red 5v and the two black ground wires.

My suggestion is to align your x-station's male connector so the angled edges are facing right (as in image 1 above). Now align the male connector on your pump so that the angled edges are also facing right (as in image one, and now also as your x-station's male connector.) Once you've done this, then you know that the top wire is the 12v line on both your "power source" (the x-station) and the "device" (your pump.) Now if you loosely plug your new replacement female connector into your x-station, then you will also know that the top pin on the female connector is the 12v line, your 5v line is the bottom pin, and the two center pins are your ground lines. One simply needs to change the pin style (male pin vs female pin) on the "device's" (your pump's) connector.









----

Analogy: If wires are the "tubes" of a water-cooling setup, the flow of power/ground/data signal is the "water," and the "loop" itself is the circuit. Your "source" (where the power/ground/data signal comes from; PSU, or in your case the x-station) would be the "reservoir". Your destination (where the power/ground/data signal needs to go; in your case a pump) would be like an "inlet" port on a block. Using this analogy a 4pin connector would have four separate "loops" [one for each pin.]

Now, let us tint the water in these reservoirs yellow, red, and black and imagine you want yellow water going to your CPU block, red going to your GPU block, and black going hard drive block's. Each "block" in this analogy is a pin on your connector, and the color of the water is your voltage/ground/data signal value. (And yes, in this particular case your hard drive block reservoirs of black water [ground lines] would be interchangeable.)


----------



## jsutter71

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mystriss*
> 
> I recall how concerning it was to change out my first connector
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Changing from male to female is just fine, all you have to do is make sure you get the wires in the right spots and four pin Molex's are the easiest to start with too; the de-pining is far easier and there's actually only 3 "lines" to remember on the connection!
> 
> A 4 pin molex has a 12 volt line, a 5 volt line, and two ground (or GND) lines; often these are color-coded (12v yellow, 5v red, grounds black) however they are not always colored, nor are the colors themselves necessarily the same from one connector to another (For example, 5v is often an orange wire, not red, etc.) Thus, the best practice if you're replacing /any/ connector is not to rely on colors, instead one should rely on the pin positions themselves. To figure out the pin positions, let us have a look at these two images:
> 
> 
> 
> Notice the direction of the male connectors angled edges in the first picture, they're facing right yea? Pin one on the top is the 12v line, pin 4 on the bottom is the 5v line, and the two center pins are grounds. This is the pin-out on both your x-station's male connectors /and/ your pump's stock male connector.
> 
> Now look at the second picture, the male connector's angled edges are facing down here, and the female's angled edges are facing up; they're opposite. Imagine plugging the female connector to the male connector in the second picture; notice the relationship of the wires; the yellow 12v on the male would be connected to the yellow 12v on the female, right? Same is true for the red 5v and the two black ground wires.
> 
> My suggestion is to align your x-station's male connector so the angled edges are facing right (as in image 1 above). Now align the male connector on your pump so that the angled edges are also facing right (as in image one, and now also as your x-station's male connector.) Once you've done this, then you know that the top wire is the 12v line on both your "power source" (the x-station) and the "device" (your pump.) Now if you loosely plug your new replacement female connector into your x-station, then you will also know that the top pin on the female connector is the 12v line, your 5v line is the bottom pin, and the two center pins are your ground lines. One simply needs to change the pin style (male pin vs female pin) on the "device's" (your pump's) connector.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ----
> 
> Analogy: If wires are the "tubes" of a water-cooling setup, the flow of power/ground/data signal is the "water," and the "loop" itself is the circuit. Your "source" (where the power/ground/data signal comes from; PSU, or in your case the x-station) would be the "reservoir". Your destination (where the power/ground/data signal needs to go; in your case a pump) would be like an "inlet" port on a block. Using this analogy a 4pin connector would have four separate "loops" [one for each pin.]
> 
> Now, let us tint the water in these reservoirs yellow, red, and black and imagine you want yellow water going to your CPU block, red going to your GPU block, and black going hard drive block's. Each "block" in this analogy is a pin on your connector, and the color of the water is your voltage/ground/data signal value. (And yes, in this particular case your hard drive block reservoirs of black water [ground lines] would be interchangeable.)


This is what is messing me up. See the attached pics. By the way. Great explanation. If red is the 5 volt and yellow the 12 volt, then I'm not sure if that's the case for the Aquaero or the cord that's attached. A quick stare and compare of some of my other cables seems to indicate that Aquaero is using a red cable for their 12 volt. So when I switch the genders on the Aquaero cable then they should be using the other 2 pin connectors in the pic. Just to simplify things, in the pic I've posted the red wire on the Aquaero is lined up with the yellow wire on the other cord, and when I make the switch, the colors should still be misaligned. So is the Aquaero's pump power wire a 5 or 12 colt? I need to invest in a multimeter.


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jsutter71*
> 
> This is what is messing me up. See the attached pics. By the way. Great explanation. If red is the 5 volt and yellow the 12 volt, then I'm not sure if that's the case for the Aquaero or the cord that's attached. A quick stare and compare of some of my other cables seems to indicate that Aquaero is using a red cable for their 12 volt. So when I switch the genders on the Aquaero cable then they should be using the other 2 pin connectors in the pic. Just to simplify things, in the pic I've posted the red wire on the Aquaero is lined up with the yellow wire on the other cord, and when I make the switch, the colors should still be misaligned. So is the Aquaero's pump power wire a 5 or 12 colt? I need to invest in a multimeter.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Every company does not use a standard color code for these for some reason.. the pump is 12 volts. it is always better to use the diagram that shows the purpose of the pins on the connector. I have seen every color used for the 12 volt line. especially when you are dealing with items from the EU.. different standards and color codes.


----------



## seross69

Could someone link me to instructions on how to change the faceplate on a AQ 6 pro. I have done it before and had the instructions but can not find them and did not here after a short search?


----------



## Mystriss

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jsutter71*
> 
> This is what is messing me up. See the attached pics. By the way. Great explanation. If red is the 5 volt and yellow the 12 volt, then I'm not sure if that's the case for the Aquaero or the cord that's attached. A quick stare and compare of some of my other cables seems to indicate that Aquaero is using a red cable for their 12 volt. So when I switch the genders on the Aquaero cable then they should be using the other 2 pin connectors in the pic. Just to simplify things, in the pic I've posted the red wire on the Aquaero is lined up with the yellow wire on the other cord, and when I make the switch, the colors should still be misaligned. So is the Aquaero's pump power wire a 5 or 12 colt? I need to invest in a multimeter.


This is exactly why you shouldn't go off colors! Ignore the color of the wire entirely and go off the pin location's because the /pin/ location is /always/ the same









When you look at the male side of the male connection off your /power source/, with the angled sides facing right the top pin will /always/ be a 12v line from the PSU and the bottom pin will /always/ be a 5v line from the PSU and the center two will /always/ be grounds from the PSU. The PSU is the absolute /start/ point for /all/ connections - it dictates the value of that wire in every case.

This is a male 4pin off my PSU and the connector has the angles facing right:

 

Notice that the bottom pin is 5v and the top pin is 12v - I have put a tape flag on the 12v line so you can see the relationship when plugged into your pump

Devices require different amounts of power to run (in computers these are 12v, 5v, and 3.3v) This is exactly the same concept as using different batteries for different things (AA's, D's, C's, AAA's, 9volts, etc.)

The PSU provides a specific amount of voltage through the wires themselves, the connector simply "connect" a specific voltage amount from the PSU into your device. Therefore the pin-out on any 4pin molex device is going to be aligned to the voltage that device requires to operate.

Picture's of my AQ-D5 pump connector (white) plugged into the PSU connector (black) *NOTE: NEVER RUN A PUMP DRY!!! (The black connector is no longer connected to my psu) and note the location of the flag I had put on the 12v line.



The AQ D5 pump's connector dictates that it requires 12v's from the PSU plus a single ground connection.

Now, when changing the sex of a connector you just need to remember the positioning of pin one, and with a 4pin molex connector pin 1 is always 12v, pin 2 and 3 are always ground, and pin 4 is always 5v.

A cheat for ya: on most 4pin molex connectors they usually, but not always, make finding pin one pretty easy. Here I have both a black male and a white female 4pin connector, notice that ridge on the left side of the black (much easier to see in your second picture of a male connector) and right side of the white?



Those ridge's designate pin one (or 12v) /regardless/ of the connectors sex. In a lot of cases your connector is even numbered for ya, it's just hard to see unless you get the light/shadow just right; its on the end of the connector that the wires come out of. Now, I'm afraid I can't photograph the numbers well, but all of the connectors in your pictures appear (best I can tell) to have both the ridge designating pin one, as well as pin numbers on them.

The only reason I didn't mention this far easier way to find pin 1 on your connector(s) is because I thought you said you were plugging into an x-station, which doesn't have the ridges on it's connector receptacles as far as I can tell, so you have to go off of the angles on the connector. Like this, just has the female slot?


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> Could someone link me to instructions on how to change the faceplate on a AQ 6 pro. I have done it before and had the instructions but can not find them and did not here after a short search?


Use a scalpel or any thin blade to gentle separate the faceplate from the aquaero. It is glued. Then place the black one in place. Sometimes you might need to put some glue on it but often the leftovers are enough to get a good mount of the new faceplate. Also test the screen to see if fits well with the new faceplate. Sometimes you need to sand a bit specially the small area with a hairpin shape.


----------



## DMatthewStewart

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ruffhi*
> 
> @DMatthewStewart ... ever used a siphon hose? You drain liquid from one container to a lower container using a hose. The hose can go up so that it is much, much higher than both contains ... and it will still drain. Providing the hose is completely full of liquid (ie closed).
> 
> From the wikipedia quoted above ..._There are two leading theories about how siphons cause liquid to flow uphill, against gravity, without being pumped, and powered only by gravity ..._


Yes. Ive used a siphon hose before. Suction and pressure (created by the user at some point) start the flow. Your point? Even getting a siphon to go upwards doesnt requiring "leading theories" according to whomever thinks they understand fluid dynamics. Simple calculations will tell you how long it can last, what the pressure head and velocity head are. Ive included the links below. Furthermore, whether it is gravity, or initial pressure created from an outside source that creates a temporary vaccuum (like a siphon done by pump or human mouth), there is a way and reason to create initial pressure. Totally irrelevant to a contained system with a mechanical pump. The latter has less variables to determine pressure and head velocity. Furthermore, your quote about gravity moving a liquid and having it flow uphill says nothing about friction. Friction is one of the enemies in our systems. Again, just send an email to Martin's Liquid Lab and tell him that his findings are irrelevant because you know a siphon is possible. He'll laugh and say "So what?".

Why dont we all just start our loops with a siphon hose. Heck we can do that with our mouths. Then we wont need a pump at all, right? Heck, according to your logic it should flow uphill, against gravity (and for some reason everyone, not you particularly) are thinking that friction doesnt matter. We Dont Need Pumps at all...We can all save a lot of money. Try it.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> Think you need to do some more reading and research.
> 
> you need to look up the difference between a open loop and a closed loop. there are a lot of open loops being used and they are quiet common.
> 
> A filter system on a pool is a type of open loop.. The cooling system on your car is a open loop.. you use closed loops to prevent contamination of the system!!
> 
> a Garden hose really is not a loop it is a discharge from a closed loop. I am afraid you are not understanding correctly what you are reading!


Hold on a minute...Show me a computer system that is drawing from as large open pool. Youre comparing apples and oranges here. And before you continue, please read, and understand the Darcy Weisbach equation. Its very basic, college freshman material

http://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/darcy-weisbach-equation-d_646.html

And the obvious, most simple measurements for Pressure Head:

http://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/static-pressure-head-d_610.html

Next, please provide an open loop example. I can think of one that uses our types of pumps: Fish tanks. How many hard 90 degree bends are being used in those? Because if there are too many, and the lift is too high, guess what? Youre going to lose Velocity Head, Pressure Head, etc.

BTW, heres a handy little chart of pressure and flow loss in CPVC and Copper tubing (since people are using copper tubing and CPVC is pretty similar to creating the same friction as our soft tubing). Weird, they list loss of heigh too just like our pump manufacturers do on their pumps? Why? Dont they know siphons exist and none of this matters? Anyways:

http://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/cts-cpvc-tube-friction-loss-d_1666.html

And just for kicks, here is the table for approximating pipe length (taking friction, gravity into consideration) But, what a waste of time! Obviously these engineers are just bored (and prob wrong). Or this just doesnt apply to our systems

http://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/equivalent-pipe-length-method-d_804.html

My original response included all the necessary links, a full explanation of pressure head, loss of pressure, maintaining velocity, et al. I went back and took it out because it was a very long block of text and figured it was getting too technical. Now we want to get technical? Lets do it. You can use those calculations (like I do) and get your own volume of fluid being pumped along with knowing what youre true velocity and head pressure are. Thats how I figure mine out without a flow-meter.

What do I need to read more on seross69?? Ive understood fluid dynamics for a long time. No one here seems to think its relevant for our systems because

a) a siphon is possible and exists (irrelevant and different topic entirely) and

b) because there is such thing as an open loop.

So what? It doesnt change the fact that friction affects us. It doesnt change that bends create additional friction. Itdoesnt change that we have a finite amount of power to push out fluid. None of that changes. No one has addressed that. When I did my fist hardline system I had a ton of 90 degree bends. One pump couldnt cut it. When I ran the calculations for 45 degree bends and using more straight (level) lines and a shorter vertical (aided by a 45 degree) I realized that one pump could handle a differently designed loop. And it works prefectly. Ive been using one pump ever since. If I go back to a bunch of 90 degree bends I need a second pump. *< That was the entire point.* From the original question. A poster asked if he needed two pumps. I said he was right on the cuff of needing two but could definitely use one comfortably and without worry if it was set up slightly differently.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> Well, time for you to take your own advice, you are flat out wrong.
> Again he is correct (seross)


@seross69

^^Hes right about what? I said an open loop is a garden hose. So does Wikipedia. (see first response)

Since we are lowering ourselves to Wikipedia lets see what they say about an open loop

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Open-loop_controller

Oh, under examples of an "open loop" they list a soil irrigation system. Like I said...a garden hose

What am I flat out wrong about? *List the points I am wrong on*. Who is using an open loop? (by the way, an "open" loop isnt a loop at all) A swimming pool being an open loop? So what? We arent using a large open pool to pull from. Pools have pretty srong pumps. Ever see the size of those? They are relevant in size (actually scaled perfectly) to the amount of fluid being moved. If our systems had that much fluid our pumps would 4 feet high and 3 feet wide too! He diudnt make a single valid point. He instead tried to change the argument to something it isnt, wasnt, and wont be. Let me ask you this (since you seem to follow his logic)

1) Why do pump manufacturers list the maximum vertical lift height?

2) Why does that matter?

3) Is friction an important variable in moving fluid? If not, why not?

4) If the answer to #3 is "No" than how do you explain the results from Martin's? Realistically, he shouldve been able to find no different results. Instead, he sees a reduction in flow and pressure head because, like I said, we arent suspending laws of fluid dynamics or gravity in our systems. Those laws arent bent, broken, or ignored.

5) Why do block and radiator manufacturers always advertise and being "less restrictive"? If velocity, pressure, lift height, et al dont matter and are irrelevant then why bother engineering the product at all? Why bother doing a single calculation

6) Instead of a pump in our system why dont we just start our loop with a siphon? It will run forever uphill against gravity, right? (Hint: Answer is "No". But why?)

*To all:* I am looking forward to everyones response on how our systems are somehow not affected by basics physics. Also, why dont we just put a large pot on top of our computer (an open pool) and just start it with a siphon. If fluid can move uphill against gravity, surely a pot on top of our computer, manually started with a hand pump, should just flow forever. Of course unless friction catches up with it. Or if the force of gravity gradually wears away pressure; which eventually makes it lose lift height. But thats ok. It will run for a long time, right?

Heck, why dont we just hook our computers up to our pool. Who cares if its a long way away. Fluid moves without any restrictions, right?


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Costas*
> 
> Damn USB D5's.....
> 
> I have 2 brand new D5 USB pumps.
> 
> I just filled my new build yesterday and proceeded to check for leaks and put the rig through some tests. However after running sweet for a few hours one of my D5 USB pumps has now developed a fault with its USB/Aquabus interface and I can no longer 'talk' to it via USB or Aquabus. The other one is still doing fine. The pump itself is still working but its fixed at some default speed which is not 100% (assume its 60% like other D5's).
> 
> Probably a question for Shoggy, but can we source the internal D5 USB/Aquabus interface board direct from Aquqcomputer and replace it ourselves? Really not worth sending the whole pump back and forth to Aquacomputer in Germany.


I known this might be obvious but it happen to me before so I thought I would share with you Costas. Had the same thing happen to me before with a d5 usb and was ready to send it back to Shoggy (RMA) when I notice one end of the USB cable was faulty (one wire loose). So, double check the usb cable or replace it with another to test.


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DMatthewStewart*
> 
> Yes. Ive used a siphon hose before. Suction and pressure (created by the user at some point) start the flow. Your point? Even getting a siphon to go upwards doesnt requiring "leading theories" according to whomever thinks they understand fluid dynamics. Simple calculations will tell you how long it can last, what the pressure head and velocity head are. Ive included the links below. Furthermore, whether it is gravity, or initial pressure created from an outside source that creates a temporary vaccuum (like a siphon done by pump or human mouth), there is a way and reason to create initial pressure. Totally irrelevant to a contained system with a mechanical pump. The latter has less variables to determine pressure and head velocity. Furthermore, your quote about gravity moving a liquid and having it flow uphill says nothing about friction. Friction is one of the enemies in our systems. Again, just send an email to Martin's Liquid Lab and tell him that his findings are irrelevant because you know a siphon is possible. He'll laugh and say "So what?".
> 
> Why dont we all just start our loops with a siphon hose. Heck we can do that with our mouths. Then we wont need a pump at all, right? Heck, according to your logic it should flow uphill, against gravity (and for some reason everyone, not you particularly) are thinking that friction doesnt matter. We Dont Need Pumps at all...We can all save a lot of money. Try it.
> Hold on a minute...Show me a computer system that is drawing from as large open pool. Youre comparing apples and oranges here. And before you continue, please read, and understand the Darcy Weisbach equation. Its very basic, college freshman material
> 
> http://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/darcy-weisbach-equation-d_646.html
> 
> And the obvious, most simple measurements for Pressure Head:
> 
> http://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/static-pressure-head-d_610.html
> 
> Next, please provide an open loop example. I can think of one that uses our types of pumps: Fish tanks. How many hard 90 degree bends are being used in those? Because if there are too many, and the lift is too high, guess what? Youre going to lose Velocity Head, Pressure Head, etc.
> 
> BTW, heres a handy little chart of pressure and flow loss in CPVC and Copper tubing (since people are using copper tubing and CPVC is pretty similar to creating the same friction as our soft tubing). Weird, they list loss of heigh too just like our pump manufacturers do on their pumps? Why? Dont they know siphons exist and none of this matters? Anyways:
> 
> http://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/cts-cpvc-tube-friction-loss-d_1666.html
> 
> And just for kicks, here is the table for approximating pipe length (taking friction, gravity into consideration) But, what a waste of time! Obviously these engineers are just bored (and prob wrong). Or this just doesnt apply to our systems
> 
> http://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/equivalent-pipe-length-method-d_804.html
> 
> My original response included all the necessary links, a full explanation of pressure head, loss of pressure, maintaining velocity, et al. I went back and took it out because it was a very long block of text and figured it was getting too technical. Now we want to get technical? Lets do it. You can use those calculations (like I do) and get your own volume of fluid being pumped along with knowing what youre true velocity and head pressure are. Thats how I figure mine out without a flow-meter.
> 
> What do I need to read more on seross69?? Ive understood fluid dynamics for a long time. No one here seems to think its relevant for our systems because
> 
> a) a siphon is possible and exists (irrelevant and different topic entirely) and
> 
> b) because there is such thing as an open loop.
> 
> So what? It doesnt change the fact that friction affects us. It doesnt change that bends create additional friction. Itdoesnt change that we have a finite amount of power to push out fluid. None of that changes. No one has addressed that. When I did my fist hardline system I had a ton of 90 degree bends. One pump couldnt cut it. When I ran the calculations for 45 degree bends and using more straight (level) lines and a shorter vertical (aided by a 45 degree) I realized that one pump could handle a differently designed loop. And it works prefectly. Ive been using one pump ever since. If I go back to a bunch of 90 degree bends I need a second pump. *< That was the entire point.* From the original question. A poster asked if he needed two pumps. I said he was right on the cuff of needing two but could definitely use one comfortably and without worry if it was set up slightly differently.
> @seross69
> 
> ^^Hes right about what? I said an open loop is a garden hose. So does Wikipedia. (see first response)
> 
> Since we are lowering ourselves to Wikipedia lets see what they say about an open loop
> 
> https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Open-loop_controller
> 
> Oh, under examples of an "open loop" they list a soil irrigation system. Like I said...a garden hose
> 
> What am I flat out wrong about? *List the points I am wrong on*. Who is using an open loop? (by the way, an "open" loop isnt a loop at all) A swimming pool being an open loop? So what? We arent using a large open pool to pull from. Pools have pretty srong pumps. Ever see the size of those? They are relevant in size (actually scaled perfectly) to the amount of fluid being moved. If our systems had that much fluid our pumps would 4 feet high and 3 feet wide too! He diudnt make a single valid point. He instead tried to change the argument to something it isnt, wasnt, and wont be. Let me ask you this (since you seem to follow his logic)
> 
> 1) Why do pump manufacturers list the maximum vertical lift height?
> 
> 2) Why does that matter?
> 
> 3) Is friction an important variable in moving fluid? If not, why not?
> 
> 4) If the answer to #3 is "No" than how do you explain the results from Martin's? Realistically, he shouldve been able to find no different results. Instead, he sees a reduction in flow and pressure head because, like I said, we arent suspending laws of fluid dynamics or gravity in our systems. Those laws arent bent, broken, or ignored.
> 
> 5) Why do block and radiator manufacturers always advertise and being "less restrictive"? If velocity, pressure, lift height, et al dont matter and are irrelevant then why bother engineering the product at all? Why bother doing a single calculation
> 
> 6) Instead of a pump in our system why dont we just start our loop with a siphon? It will run forever uphill against gravity, right? (Hint: Answer is "No". But why?)
> 
> *To all:* I am looking forward to everyones response on how our systems are somehow not affected by basics physics. Also, why dont we just put a large pot on top of our computer (an open pool) and just start it with a siphon. If fluid can move uphill against gravity, surely a pot on top of our computer, manually started with a hand pump, should just flow forever. Of course unless friction catches up with it. Or if the force of gravity gradually wears away pressure; which eventually makes it lose lift height. But thats ok. It will run for a long time, right?
> 
> Heck, why dont we just hook our computers up to our pool. Who cares if its a long way away. Fluid moves without any restrictions, right?


like I stated before the cooling system in your car is a open loop... How am I comparing apples and oranges a fluid loop is a fluid loop no matter how big it is. I have also seen cooling systems built for computers that used a large pool of water that was a open loop. they were using air to cool the water instead of a radiator and it was very efficient but had a problem with biological growth. large cooling loops are for the most part open and may have several pumps share the same pool of water but they are maintenance intensive and if we used open loops in a pc would would have to take it apart and clean it often. I do not see how someone who is a fluid engineer does not know the difference between open and closed loops. I did a net search since you could not find any instances of a open loop and found lots of pages on them and the differences.

But I can see you are right and we are all wrong so I will not respond anymore to you as I do not want to disturb a genius.

I also never said friction or resistance does not affect the flow it does...

Also you said
Quote:


> Yes. Ive used a siphon hose before. Suction and pressure (created by the user at some point) start the flow. Your point? Even getting a siphon to go upwards doesnt requiring "leading theories" according to whomever thinks they understand fluid dynamics. Simple calculations will tell you how long it can last,


the siphon will last until it runs out of water. I have drained a in-ground pool using a simple 3/4" garden hose, it took a lot of time but it did it.

again sorry to have insulted your genius. good luck with your builds and have fun.


----------



## jsutter71

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mystriss*
> 
> This is exactly why you shouldn't go off colors! Ignore the color of the wire entirely and go off the pin location's because the /pin/ location is /always/ the same
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When you look at the male side of the male connection off your /power source/, with the angled sides facing right the top pin will /always/ be a 12v line from the PSU and the bottom pin will /always/ be a 5v line from the PSU and the center two will /always/ be grounds from the PSU. The PSU is the absolute /start/ point for /all/ connections - it dictates the value of that wire in every case.
> 
> This is a male 4pin off my PSU and the connector has the angles facing right:
> 
> 
> 
> Notice that the bottom pin is 5v and the top pin is 12v - I have put a tape flag on the 12v line so you can see the relationship when plugged into your pump
> 
> Devices require different amounts of power to run (in computers these are 12v, 5v, and 3.3v) This is exactly the same concept as using different batteries for different things (AA's, D's, C's, AAA's, 9volts, etc.)
> 
> The PSU provides a specific amount of voltage through the wires themselves, the connector simply "connect" a specific voltage amount from the PSU into your device. Therefore the pin-out on any 4pin molex device is going to be aligned to the voltage that device requires to operate.
> 
> Picture's of my AQ-D5 pump connector (white) plugged into the PSU connector (black) *NOTE: NEVER RUN A PUMP DRY!!! (The black connector is no longer connected to my psu) and note the location of the flag I had put on the 12v line.
> 
> 
> 
> The AQ D5 pump's connector dictates that it requires 12v's from the PSU plus a single ground connection.
> 
> Now, when changing the sex of a connector you just need to remember the positioning of pin one, and with a 4pin molex connector pin 1 is always 12v, pin 2 and 3 are always ground, and pin 4 is always 5v.
> 
> A cheat for ya: on most 4pin molex connectors they usually, but not always, make finding pin one pretty easy. Here I have both a black male and a white female 4pin connector, notice that ridge on the left side of the black (much easier to see in your second picture of a male connector) and right side of the white?
> 
> 
> 
> Those ridge's designate pin one (or 12v) /regardless/ of the connectors sex. In a lot of cases your connector is even numbered for ya, it's just hard to see unless you get the light/shadow just right; its on the end of the connector that the wires come out of. Now, I'm afraid I can't photograph the numbers well, but all of the connectors in your pictures appear (best I can tell) to have both the ridge designating pin one, as well as pin numbers on them.
> 
> The only reason I didn't mention this far easier way to find pin 1 on your connector(s) is because I thought you said you were plugging into an x-station, which doesn't have the ridges on it's connector receptacles as far as I can tell, so you have to go off of the angles on the connector. Like this, just has the female slot?


Thank you very much Mystriss!!!! You really know your wiring. Are you an electrician? By the way. Nice Multimeter in the pics. I just went and bought myself a Fluke on Amazon. Better to be safe. In the mean time I'll be referring to your post a lot. Also, I saw what you said about the tiny numbering on the connectors. That made a big difference. Also Just to check my work I plugged my other pumps m connector into my my modded pumps now F connector.


----------



## Costas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> I known this might be obvious but it happen to me before so I thought I would share with you Costas. Had the same thing happen to me before with a d5 usb and was ready to send it back to Shoggy (RMA) when I notice one end of the USB cable was faulty (one wire loose). So, double check the usb cable or replace it with another to test.


Yeh that was the very first thing I checked etc... Unfortunately I have also lost 4-wire MPS connectivity to the pump as well.

Anyway - Shoggy from Aquacomputer has promptly come through to the rescue via PM....









I have ordered a replacement controller board for the pump so it should be a cheap fix for me.

Great support from Aquacomputer...!


----------



## Mega Man

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!






Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *DMatthewStewart*
> 
> Yes. Ive used a siphon hose before. Suction and pressure (created by the user at some point) start the flow. Your point? Even getting a siphon to go upwards doesnt requiring "leading theories" according to whomever thinks they understand fluid dynamics. Simple calculations will tell you how long it can last, what the pressure head and velocity head are. Ive included the links below. Furthermore, whether it is gravity, or initial pressure created from an outside source that creates a temporary vaccuum (like a siphon done by pump or human mouth), there is a way and reason to create initial pressure. Totally irrelevant to a contained system with a mechanical pump. The latter has less variables to determine pressure and head velocity. Furthermore, your quote about gravity moving a liquid and having it flow uphill says nothing about friction. Friction is one of the enemies in our systems. Again, just send an email to Martin's Liquid Lab and tell him that his findings are irrelevant because you know a siphon is possible. He'll laugh and say "So what?".
> 
> Why dont we all just start our loops with a siphon hose. Heck we can do that with our mouths. Then we wont need a pump at all, right? Heck, according to your logic it should flow uphill, against gravity (and for some reason everyone, not you particularly) are thinking that friction doesnt matter. We Dont Need Pumps at all...We can all save a lot of money. Try it.
> Hold on a minute...Show me a computer system that is drawing from as large open pool. Youre comparing apples and oranges here. And before you continue, please read, and understand the Darcy Weisbach equation. Its very basic, college freshman material
> 
> http://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/darcy-weisbach-equation-d_646.html
> 
> And the obvious, most simple measurements for Pressure Head:
> 
> http://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/static-pressure-head-d_610.html
> 
> Next, please provide an open loop example. I can think of one that uses our types of pumps: Fish tanks. How many hard 90 degree bends are being used in those? Because if there are too many, and the lift is too high, guess what? Youre going to lose Velocity Head, Pressure Head, etc.
> 
> BTW, heres a handy little chart of pressure and flow loss in CPVC and Copper tubing (since people are using copper tubing and CPVC is pretty similar to creating the same friction as our soft tubing). Weird, they list loss of heigh too just like our pump manufacturers do on their pumps? Why? Dont they know siphons exist and none of this matters? Anyways:
> 
> http://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/cts-cpvc-tube-friction-loss-d_1666.html
> 
> And just for kicks, here is the table for approximating pipe length (taking friction, gravity into consideration) But, what a waste of time! Obviously these engineers are just bored (and prob wrong). Or this just doesnt apply to our systems
> 
> http://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/equivalent-pipe-length-method-d_804.html
> 
> My original response included all the necessary links, a full explanation of pressure head, loss of pressure, maintaining velocity, et al. I went back and took it out because it was a very long block of text and figured it was getting too technical. Now we want to get technical? Lets do it. You can use those calculations (like I do) and get your own volume of fluid being pumped along with knowing what youre true velocity and head pressure are. Thats how I figure mine out without a flow-meter.
> 
> What do I need to read more on seross69?? Ive understood fluid dynamics for a long time. No one here seems to think its relevant for our systems because
> 
> a) a siphon is possible and exists (irrelevant and different topic entirely) and
> 
> b) because there is such thing as an open loop.
> 
> So what? It doesnt change the fact that friction affects us. It doesnt change that bends create additional friction. Itdoesnt change that we have a finite amount of power to push out fluid. None of that changes. No one has addressed that. When I did my fist hardline system I had a ton of 90 degree bends. One pump couldnt cut it. When I ran the calculations for 45 degree bends and using more straight (level) lines and a shorter vertical (aided by a 45 degree) I realized that one pump could handle a differently designed loop. And it works prefectly. Ive been using one pump ever since. If I go back to a bunch of 90 degree bends I need a second pump. *< That was the entire point.* From the original question. A poster asked if he needed two pumps. I said he was right on the cuff of needing two but could definitely use one comfortably and without worry if it was set up slightly differently.
> @seross69
> 
> ^^Hes right about what? I said an open loop is a garden hose. So does Wikipedia. (see first response)
> 
> Since we are lowering ourselves to Wikipedia lets see what they say about an open loop
> 
> https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Open-loop_controller
> 
> Oh, under examples of an "open loop" they list a soil irrigation system. Like I said...a garden hose
> 
> What am I flat out wrong about? *List the points I am wrong on*. Who is using an open loop? (by the way, an "open" loop isnt a loop at all) A swimming pool being an open loop? So what? We arent using a large open pool to pull from. Pools have pretty srong pumps. Ever see the size of those? They are relevant in size (actually scaled perfectly) to the amount of fluid being moved. If our systems had that much fluid our pumps would 4 feet high and 3 feet wide too! He diudnt make a single valid point. He instead tried to change the argument to something it isnt, wasnt, and wont be. Let me ask you this (since you seem to follow his logic)
> 
> 1) Why do pump manufacturers list the maximum vertical lift height?
> 
> 2) Why does that matter?
> 
> 3) Is friction an important variable in moving fluid? If not, why not?
> 
> 4) If the answer to #3 is "No" than how do you explain the results from Martin's? Realistically, he shouldve been able to find no different results. Instead, he sees a reduction in flow and pressure head because, like I said, we arent suspending laws of fluid dynamics or gravity in our systems. Those laws arent bent, broken, or ignored.
> 
> 5) Why do block and radiator manufacturers always advertise and being "less restrictive"? If velocity, pressure, lift height, et al dont matter and are irrelevant then why bother engineering the product at all? Why bother doing a single calculation
> 
> 6) Instead of a pump in our system why dont we just start our loop with a siphon? It will run forever uphill against gravity, right? (Hint: Answer is "No". But why?)
> 
> *To all:* I am looking forward to everyones response on how our systems are somehow not affected by basics physics. Also, why dont we just put a large pot on top of our computer (an open pool) and just start it with a siphon. If fluid can move uphill against gravity, surely a pot on top of our computer, manually started with a hand pump, should just flow forever. Of course unless friction catches up with it. Or if the force of gravity gradually wears away pressure; which eventually makes it lose lift height. But thats ok. It will run for a long time, right?
> 
> Heck, why dont we just hook our computers up to our pool. Who cares if its a long way away. Fluid moves without any restrictions, right?
> 
> 
> 
> like I stated before the cooling system in your car is a open loop... How am I comparing apples and oranges a fluid loop is a fluid loop no matter how big it is. I have also seen cooling systems built for computers that used a large pool of water that was a open loop. they were using air to cool the water instead of a radiator and it was very efficient but had a problem with biological growth. large cooling loops are for the most part open and may have several pumps share the same pool of water but they are maintenance intensive and if we used open loops in a pc would would have to take it apart and clean it often. I do not see how someone who is a fluid engineer does not know the difference between open and closed loops. I did a net search since you could not find any instances of a open loop and found lots of pages on them and the differences.
> 
> But I can see you are right and we are all wrong so I will not respond anymore to you as I do not want to disturb a genius.
> 
> I also never said friction or resistance does not affect the flow it does...
> 
> Also you said
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Yes. Ive used a siphon hose before. Suction and pressure (created by the user at some point) start the flow. Your point? Even getting a siphon to go upwards doesnt requiring "leading theories" according to whomever thinks they understand fluid dynamics. Simple calculations will tell you how long it can last,
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> the siphon will last until it runs out of water. I have drained a in-ground pool using a simple 3/4" garden hose, it took a lot of time but it did it.
> 
> again sorry to have insulted your genius. good luck with your builds and have fun.
Click to expand...





i will answer one time. once. no more.

i love when people try to make things complicated, it reminds me of when someone ( foolishly ) tried to tell me i was wrong, when i was trying to show people a BASIC way to find watts, whats a basic 101 method?

volts x amps. { IIRC we were sizing a psu or simalar, maybe fans for the fan controller, idr, either way, poor guys just needed a BASIC number }

someone then butted it nope you must know resistance and ohms law.... i was so "wrong" they needed to go buy a DMM to figure out a simple rating for ( again either sizing a psu or fan controller.... w.e.)

we deal with watercooling, i will start with a simple demonstration you @DMatthewStewart keep trying to bring in friction, while it does exist it does not need to be brought up in ANY relevant conversation in todays watercooling ( talking basic loops )

here is why,

next to NO ONE is using 1/4 or 1/8 " tubing are they ?

most everyone is using 3/8 or 1/2?

ok now again surely you will agree 20feet or 10 feet is more then the average loop has in it?
take said 10 or 20 feet or 3/8" or 1/2" ID tubing put it in a bucket of water and fill it, below or above you i bet you can BLOW with your lungs through it

look at all that friction and HOW HARD it is to blow in it... o wait, it isnt ? you can still blow??? hmm

friction is not something we need to worry about when planing such SMALL loops with these pumps.

i have only seen a handful of loops where it would play a factor, specifically GEOTHERMAL pc loops

now does that mean it does not exist ? no, of course it does, but to try and portray that we need to care, is frankly a straw argument .

we are not dealing with MULTIPLE story buildings with HUNDREDS or supply /returns in the loop running in parrallel

most are dealing with 1 large serial loop or possibly at most 4 parallel gpu runs !

now that the mundane and simple is out of the way

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DMatthewStewart*
> 
> Yes. Ive used a siphon hose before. Suction and pressure (created by the user at some point) start the flow. Your point? Even getting a siphon to go upwards doesnt requiring "leading theories" according to whomever thinks they understand fluid dynamics. Simple calculations will tell you how long it can last, what the pressure head and velocity head are. Ive included the links below. Furthermore, whether it is gravity, or initial pressure created from an outside source that creates a temporary vaccuum (like a siphon done by pump or human mouth), there is a way and reason to create initial pressure. Totally irrelevant to a contained system with a mechanical pump. The latter has less variables to determine pressure and head velocity. Furthermore, your quote about gravity moving a liquid and having it flow uphill says nothing about friction. Friction is one of the enemies in our systems.


wow, way to twist words, he stated the pump has to PUMP both going up and back down, thereby CANCELING each other out ( the cost and the benefit ) he also mentioned some stuff about a siphon and why it works is because you can OVER COME gravity because the COUNTERING FORCES CANCEL EACH OTHER OUT however you are taking parts from a argument , and parts from b argument and then recombining them to make a "valid" counter argument
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DMatthewStewart*
> 
> Again, just send an email to Martin's Liquid Lab and tell him that his findings are irrelevant because you know a siphon is possible. He'll laugh and say "So what?".
> 
> Why dont we all just start our loops with a siphon hose. Heck we can do that with our mouths. Then we wont need a pump at all, right? Heck, according to your logic it should flow uphill, against gravity (and for some reason everyone, not you particularly) are thinking that friction doesnt matter. We Dont Need Pumps at all...We can all save a lot of money. Try it.


really >? more twisting words?? can you show me wherre he even remotely hinted pcs DO NOT NEED PUMPS ?

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DMatthewStewart*
> 
> Hold on a minute...Show me a computer system that is drawing from as large open pool. Youre comparing apples and oranges here. And before you continue, please read, and understand the Darcy Weisbach equation. Its very basic, college freshman material


TL;dr and dont care NO NEED to do this for again a BASIC LOOP ......

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DMatthewStewart*
> 
> http://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/darcy-weisbach-equation-d_646.html
> 
> And the obvious, most simple measurements for Pressure Head:
> 
> http://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/static-pressure-head-d_610.html
> 
> Next, please provide an open loop example. I can think of one that uses our types of pumps: Fish tanks. How many hard 90 degree bends are being used in those? Because if there are too many, and the lift is too high, guess what? Youre going to lose Velocity Head, Pressure Head, etc.


wow more useless info, good job obfuscating a fish pump is comparing apples and oranges, we have a loop, loop, again LOOP here is a picture for reference

 great now we have a pic of a loop, no beginning, no ending, just a basic loop

fish pond pump this was the ONLY basic one that was already made that i found in my short time to waste to do this for you ... sorry



you can see 2 intakes on the right and 4 discharges. and how it is OPEN to the atmosphere which makes it IRRELEVANT to our conversation !

that pumps has to do alot more work,. because it isnt a loop,

in a LOOP the suction has a vacuum on the SAME pipe the discharge PUSHES on on a fishtank the pump has to SUCK the water in then force it out somewhere else, one does NOT help the other

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DMatthewStewart*
> 
> BTW, heres a handy little chart of pressure and flow loss in CPVC and Copper tubing (since people are using copper tubing and CPVC is pretty similar to creating the same friction as our soft tubing). Weird, they list loss of heigh too just like our pump manufacturers do on their pumps? Why? Dont they know siphons exist and none of this matters? Anyways:
> 
> http://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/cts-cpvc-tube-friction-loss-d_1666.html
> 
> And just for kicks, here is the table for approximating pipe length (taking friction, gravity into consideration) But, what a waste of time! Obviously these engineers are just bored (and prob wrong). Or this just doesnt apply to our systems
> http://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/equivalent-pipe-length-method-d_804.html


again your comparing an OPEN LOOP to a CLOSED LOOP and trying to bridge them together........ you cant, BOTH have pertinence but again NOT WITH such a SIMPLE loop as we use, you are trying to make this take a engineer to make a simple loop

it is called OVER ENGINEERING now is anything i said NEGATING resistance/friction, no, it exists .... but we dont need to deal with it IN ORDER to design a loop
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DMatthewStewart*
> 
> My original response included all the necessary links, a full explanation of pressure head, loss of pressure, maintaining velocity, et al. I went back and took it out because it was a very long block of text and figured it was getting too technical. Now we want to get technical? Lets do it. You can use those calculations (like I do) and get your own volume of fluid being pumped along with knowing what youre true velocity and head pressure are. Thats how I figure mine out without a flow-meter.
> 
> What do I need to read more on seross69?? Ive understood fluid dynamics for a long time. No one here seems to think its relevant for our systems because


again great for you..... i always seem to notice i bump into a whole lot of engineers on the world lied wide web
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DMatthewStewart*
> 
> a) a siphon is possible and exists (irrelevant and different topic entirely) and


you just said this is irrelevant great ignoring and moving on
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DMatthewStewart*
> 
> b) because there is such thing as an open loop.


huh?


there is 3 visual pics from just googling "whats the difference between an open water loop and a closed water loop "
here is a link using the same search once again referencing CLOSED CIRCUIT cooling towers
which ironically uses an OPEN LOOP on the outside of the closed loop......

more obfuscation
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DMatthewStewart*
> 
> So what? It doesnt change the fact that friction affects us. It doesnt change that bends create additional friction. Itdoesnt change that we have a finite amount of power to push out fluid. None of that changes. No one has addressed that. When I did my fist hardline system I had a ton of 90 degree bends. One pump couldnt cut it. When I ran the calculations for 45 degree bends and using more straight (level) lines and a shorter vertical (aided by a 45 degree) I realized that one pump could handle a differently designed loop. And it works perfectly. Ive been using one pump ever since. If I go back to a bunch of 90 degree bends I need a second pump. *< That was the entire point.* From the original question. A poster asked if he needed two pumps. I said he was right on the cuff of needing two but could definitely use one comfortably and without worry if it was set up slightly differently.


huh? who said that, we measure it in RESISTANCE which again is what you need to measure, as again a SIMPLE LOOP has at MOST 4 ish angle fittings and 2 blocks ?? NOT RELEVANT ....even if you get higher blocks {3+ gpu and 1 cpu } do i need to do any calculations ??? NO i can just add another pump while your method would definitely give you a finite number to grasp, yet we both come to the same conclusion that we need 2 pumps, does that make your way right and mine wrong?? no , mine is less scientific surely but just as right as you
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DMatthewStewart*
> 
> @seross69
> 
> ^^Hes right about what? I said an open loop is a garden hose. So does Wikipedia. (see first response)
> 
> Since we are lowering ourselves to Wikipedia lets see what they say about an open loop
> 
> https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Open-loop_controller
> 
> Oh, under examples of an "open loop" they list a soil irrigation system. Like I said...a garden hose
> 
> What am I flat out wrong about? *List the points I am wrong on*. Who is using an open loop? (by the way, an "open" loop isnt a loop at all) A swimming pool being an open loop? So what? We arent using a large open pool to pull from. Pools have pretty srong pumps.


"strong pumps?? what NOW you dont need your science ?>?!?? say it isnt so ! they list all the same specs on a pool pump as a normal pump .......
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DMatthewStewart*
> 
> Ever see the size of those? They are relevant in size (actually scaled perfectly) to the amount of fluid being moved. If our systems had that much fluid our pumps would 4 feet high and 3 feet wide too! He diudnt make a single valid point. He instead tried to change the argument to something it isnt, wasnt, and wont be. Let me ask you this (since you seem to follow his logic)


more obfuscation
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DMatthewStewart*
> 
> 1) Why do pump manufacturers list the maximum vertical lift height?
> 
> 2) Why does that matter?
> 
> 3) Is friction an important variable in moving fluid? If not, why not?
> 
> 4) If the answer to #3 is "No" than how do you explain the results from Martin's? Realistically, he shouldve been able to find no different results. Instead, he sees a reduction in flow and pressure head because, like I said, we arent suspending laws of fluid dynamics or gravity in our systems. Those laws arent bent, broken, or ignored.
> 
> 5) Why do block and radiator manufacturers always advertise and being "less restrictive"? If velocity, pressure, lift height, et al dont matter and are irrelevant then why bother engineering the product at all? Why bother doing a single calculation
> 
> 6) Instead of a pump in our system why dont we just start our loop with a siphon? It will run forever uphill against gravity, right? (Hint: Answer is "No". But why?)
> 
> *To all:* I am looking forward to everyones response on how our systems are somehow not affected by basics physics. Also, why dont we just put a large pot on top of our computer (an open pool) and just start it with a siphon. If fluid can move uphill against gravity, surely a pot on top of our computer, manually started with a hand pump, should just flow forever. Of course unless friction catches up with it. Or if the force of gravity gradually wears away pressure; which eventually makes it lose lift height. But thats ok. It will run for a long time, right?
> 
> Heck, why dont we just hook our computers up to our pool. Who cares if its a long way away. Fluid moves without any restrictions, right?


i have already answer most if not all of these, while you are trying to make everything difficult, arguing about 2 different systems and trying to show you are right, you are clearly smart, but holding on to over complcations for something we are trying to DUMB DOWN to make EASIER for the new people

now to where you are wrong which you have been 100% avoiding
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Costas*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *DMatthewStewart*
> 
> Having a pump at your tube res and then having another identical pump at the point where your flow has the largest vertical climb/lift. What this will do is ensure that the [head] pressure and gpm/lpm your pump(s) are spec'ed to push will stay consistent.
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *DMatthewStewart*
> 
> longest/highest tubes where the fluid is lifted straight up. This is going to be the biggest killer of head pressure.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> This is only true in an open loop system.
> 
> For our closed loop systems the height/climb is totally irrelevant - It is pretty much just the friction losses the fluid needs to overcome.
> 
> Same goes for pump placement ie. it does not really matter where its placed in the loop.
Click to expand...

here...

THIS IS WHERE you are wrong

again you have a SIMPLE loop ( aka a closed loop ) , not a open loop
Quote:


> For our closed loop systems the height/climb is totally irrelevant - It is pretty much just the friction losses the fluid needs to overcome.


the height/ climb is IRRELEVANT because in our loop for every inch/cm up we have to have the SAME inch/cm DOWN thus canceling each other out !
It is pretty much just the friction losses the fluid needs to overcome --- which is so MINIMAL it is not even required to be measured

so now, i have gone through your argument, wasted far too much of my life tearing it down, proving it as wrong as needed and semi agreeing with you as you attempt to OVER COMPLICATE the issue to prove yourself right,

now this is important i am running off of 3 hours sleep and have PROBABLY massively misspelled stuff, and i am PROBABLY not making any sense on a few things I DO NOT CARE and will not answer another post,

i once again brought your argument back to the ORIGIN and VERIFIED that is correct,

i attempted to do so on the rest, but frankly i am tired and dont care, if you want to continue to tell us how right you are, i hope others will join, in not responding


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *DMatthewStewart*
> 
> Yes. Ive used a siphon hose before. Suction and pressure (created by the user at some point) start the flow. Your point? Even getting a siphon to go upwards doesnt requiring "leading theories" according to whomever thinks they understand fluid dynamics. Simple calculations will tell you how long it can last, what the pressure head and velocity head are. Ive included the links below. Furthermore, whether it is gravity, or initial pressure created from an outside source that creates a temporary vaccuum (like a siphon done by pump or human mouth), there is a way and reason to create initial pressure. Totally irrelevant to a contained system with a mechanical pump. The latter has less variables to determine pressure and head velocity. Furthermore, your quote about gravity moving a liquid and having it flow uphill says nothing about friction. Friction is one of the enemies in our systems. Again, just send an email to Martin's Liquid Lab and tell him that his findings are irrelevant because you know a siphon is possible. He'll laugh and say "So what?".
> 
> Why dont we all just start our loops with a siphon hose. Heck we can do that with our mouths. Then we wont need a pump at all, right? Heck, according to your logic it should flow uphill, against gravity (and for some reason everyone, not you particularly) are thinking that friction doesnt matter. We Dont Need Pumps at all...We can all save a lot of money. Try it.
> Hold on a minute...Show me a computer system that is drawing from as large open pool. Youre comparing apples and oranges here. And before you continue, please read, and understand the Darcy Weisbach equation. Its very basic, college freshman material
> 
> http://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/darcy-weisbach-equation-d_646.html
> 
> And the obvious, most simple measurements for Pressure Head:
> 
> http://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/static-pressure-head-d_610.html
> 
> Next, please provide an open loop example. I can think of one that uses our types of pumps: Fish tanks. How many hard 90 degree bends are being used in those? Because if there are too many, and the lift is too high, guess what? Youre going to lose Velocity Head, Pressure Head, etc.
> 
> BTW, heres a handy little chart of pressure and flow loss in CPVC and Copper tubing (since people are using copper tubing and CPVC is pretty similar to creating the same friction as our soft tubing). Weird, they list loss of heigh too just like our pump manufacturers do on their pumps? Why? Dont they know siphons exist and none of this matters? Anyways:
> 
> http://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/cts-cpvc-tube-friction-loss-d_1666.html
> 
> And just for kicks, here is the table for approximating pipe length (taking friction, gravity into consideration) But, what a waste of time! Obviously these engineers are just bored (and prob wrong). Or this just doesnt apply to our systems
> 
> http://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/equivalent-pipe-length-method-d_804.html
> 
> My original response included all the necessary links, a full explanation of pressure head, loss of pressure, maintaining velocity, et al. I went back and took it out because it was a very long block of text and figured it was getting too technical. Now we want to get technical? Lets do it. You can use those calculations (like I do) and get your own volume of fluid being pumped along with knowing what youre true velocity and head pressure are. Thats how I figure mine out without a flow-meter.
> 
> What do I need to read more on seross69?? Ive understood fluid dynamics for a long time. No one here seems to think its relevant for our systems because
> 
> a) a siphon is possible and exists (irrelevant and different topic entirely) and
> 
> b) because there is such thing as an open loop.
> 
> So what? It doesnt change the fact that friction affects us. It doesnt change that bends create additional friction. Itdoesnt change that we have a finite amount of power to push out fluid. None of that changes. No one has addressed that. When I did my fist hardline system I had a ton of 90 degree bends. One pump couldnt cut it. When I ran the calculations for 45 degree bends and using more straight (level) lines and a shorter vertical (aided by a 45 degree) I realized that one pump could handle a differently designed loop. And it works prefectly. Ive been using one pump ever since. If I go back to a bunch of 90 degree bends I need a second pump. *< That was the entire point.* From the original question. A poster asked if he needed two pumps. I said he was right on the cuff of needing two but could definitely use one comfortably and without worry if it was set up slightly differently.
> @seross69
> 
> ^^Hes right about what? I said an open loop is a garden hose. So does Wikipedia. (see first response)
> 
> Since we are lowering ourselves to Wikipedia lets see what they say about an open loop
> 
> https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Open-loop_controller
> 
> Oh, under examples of an "open loop" they list a soil irrigation system. Like I said...a garden hose
> 
> What am I flat out wrong about? *List the points I am wrong on*. Who is using an open loop? (by the way, an "open" loop isnt a loop at all) A swimming pool being an open loop? So what? We arent using a large open pool to pull from. Pools have pretty srong pumps. Ever see the size of those? They are relevant in size (actually scaled perfectly) to the amount of fluid being moved. If our systems had that much fluid our pumps would 4 feet high and 3 feet wide too! He diudnt make a single valid point. He instead tried to change the argument to something it isnt, wasnt, and wont be. Let me ask you this (since you seem to follow his logic)
> 
> 1) Why do pump manufacturers list the maximum vertical lift height?
> 
> 2) Why does that matter?
> 
> 3) Is friction an important variable in moving fluid? If not, why not?
> 
> 4) If the answer to #3 is "No" than how do you explain the results from Martin's? Realistically, he shouldve been able to find no different results. Instead, he sees a reduction in flow and pressure head because, like I said, we arent suspending laws of fluid dynamics or gravity in our systems. Those laws arent bent, broken, or ignored.
> 
> 5) Why do block and radiator manufacturers always advertise and being "less restrictive"? If velocity, pressure, lift height, et al dont matter and are irrelevant then why bother engineering the product at all? Why bother doing a single calculation
> 
> 6) Instead of a pump in our system why dont we just start our loop with a siphon? It will run forever uphill against gravity, right? (Hint: Answer is "No". But why?)
> 
> *To all:* I am looking forward to everyones response on how our systems are somehow not affected by basics physics. Also, why dont we just put a large pot on top of our computer (an open pool) and just start it with a siphon. If fluid can move uphill against gravity, surely a pot on top of our computer, manually started with a hand pump, should just flow forever. Of course unless friction catches up with it. Or if the force of gravity gradually wears away pressure; which eventually makes it lose lift height. But thats ok. It will run for a long time, right?
> 
> Heck, why dont we just hook our computers up to our pool. Who cares if its a long way away. Fluid moves without any restrictions, right?
> 
> 
> 
> like I stated before the cooling system in your car is a open loop... How am I comparing apples and oranges a fluid loop is a fluid loop no matter how big it is. I have also seen cooling systems built for computers that used a large pool of water that was a open loop. they were using air to cool the water instead of a radiator and it was very efficient but had a problem with biological growth. large cooling loops are for the most part open and may have several pumps share the same pool of water but they are maintenance intensive and if we used open loops in a pc would would have to take it apart and clean it often. I do not see how someone who is a fluid engineer does not know the difference between open and closed loops. I did a net search since you could not find any instances of a open loop and found lots of pages on them and the differences.
> 
> But I can see you are right and we are all wrong so I will not respond anymore to you as I do not want to disturb a genius.
> 
> I also never said friction or resistance does not affect the flow it does...
> 
> Also you said
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Yes. Ive used a siphon hose before. Suction and pressure (created by the user at some point) start the flow. Your point? Even getting a siphon to go upwards doesnt requiring "leading theories" according to whomever thinks they understand fluid dynamics. Simple calculations will tell you how long it can last,
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> the siphon will last until it runs out of water. I have drained a in-ground pool using a simple 3/4" garden hose, it took a lot of time but it did it.
> 
> again sorry to have insulted your genius. good luck with your builds and have fun.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> i will answer one time. once. no more.
> 
> i love when people try to make things complicated, it reminds me of when someone ( foolishly ) tried to tell me i was wrong, when i was trying to show people a BASIC way to find watts, whats a basic 101 method?
> 
> volts x amps. { IIRC we were sizing a psu or simalar, maybe fans for the fan controller, idr, either way, poor guys just needed a BASIC number }
> 
> someone then butted it nope you must know resistance and ohms law.... i was so "wrong" they needed to go buy a DMM to figure out a simple rating for ( again either sizing a psu or fan controller.... w.e.)
> 
> we deal with watercooling, i will start with a simple demonstration you @DMatthewStewart keep trying to bring in friction, while it does exist it does not need to be brought up in ANY relevant conversation in todays watercooling ( talking basic loops )
> 
> here is why,
> 
> next to NO ONE is using 1/4 or 1/8 " tubing are they ?
> 
> most everyone is using 3/8 or 1/2?
> 
> ok now again surely you will agree 20feet or 10 feet is more then the average loop has in it?
> take said 10 or 20 feet or 3/8" or 1/2" ID tubing put it in a bucket of water and fill it, below or above you i bet you can BLOW with your lungs through it
> 
> look at all that friction and HOW HARD it is to blow in it... o wait, it isnt ? you can still blow??? hmm
> 
> friction is not something we need to worry about when planing such SMALL loops with these pumps.
> 
> i have only seen a handful of loops where it would play a factor, specifically GEOTHERMAL pc loops
> 
> now does that mean it does not exist ? no, of course it does, but to try and portray that we need to care, is frankly a straw argument .
> 
> we are not dealing with MULTIPLE story buildings with HUNDREDS or supply /returns in the loop running in parrallel
> 
> most are dealing with 1 large serial loop or possibly at most 4 parallel gpu runs !
> 
> now that the mundane and simple is out of the way
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *DMatthewStewart*
> 
> Yes. Ive used a siphon hose before. Suction and pressure (created by the user at some point) start the flow. Your point? Even getting a siphon to go upwards doesnt requiring "leading theories" according to whomever thinks they understand fluid dynamics. Simple calculations will tell you how long it can last, what the pressure head and velocity head are. Ive included the links below. Furthermore, whether it is gravity, or initial pressure created from an outside source that creates a temporary vaccuum (like a siphon done by pump or human mouth), there is a way and reason to create initial pressure. Totally irrelevant to a contained system with a mechanical pump. The latter has less variables to determine pressure and head velocity. Furthermore, your quote about gravity moving a liquid and having it flow uphill says nothing about friction. Friction is one of the enemies in our systems.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> wow, way to twist words, he stated the pump has to PUMP both going up and back down, thereby CANCELING each other out ( the cost and the benefit ) he also mentioned some stuff about a siphon and why it works is because you can OVER COME gravity because the COUNTERING FORCES CANCEL EACH OTHER OUT however you are taking parts from a argument , and parts from b argument and then recombining them to make a "valid" counter argument
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *DMatthewStewart*
> 
> Again, just send an email to Martin's Liquid Lab and tell him that his findings are irrelevant because you know a siphon is possible. He'll laugh and say "So what?".
> 
> Why dont we all just start our loops with a siphon hose. Heck we can do that with our mouths. Then we wont need a pump at all, right? Heck, according to your logic it should flow uphill, against gravity (and for some reason everyone, not you particularly) are thinking that friction doesnt matter. We Dont Need Pumps at all...We can all save a lot of money. Try it.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> really >? more twisting words?? can you show me wherre he even remotely hinted pcs DO NOT NEED PUMPS ?
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *DMatthewStewart*
> 
> Hold on a minute...Show me a computer system that is drawing from as large open pool. Youre comparing apples and oranges here. And before you continue, please read, and understand the Darcy Weisbach equation. Its very basic, college freshman material
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> TL;dr and dont care NO NEED to do this for again a BASIC LOOP ......
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *DMatthewStewart*
> 
> http://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/darcy-weisbach-equation-d_646.html
> 
> And the obvious, most simple measurements for Pressure Head:
> 
> http://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/static-pressure-head-d_610.html
> 
> Next, please provide an open loop example. I can think of one that uses our types of pumps: Fish tanks. How many hard 90 degree bends are being used in those? Because if there are too many, and the lift is too high, guess what? Youre going to lose Velocity Head, Pressure Head, etc.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> wow more useless info, good job obfuscating a fish pump is comparing apples and oranges, we have a loop, loop, again LOOP here is a picture for reference
> 
> great now we have a pic of a loop, no beginning, no ending, just a basic loop
> 
> fish pond pump this was the ONLY basic one that was already made that i found in my short time to waste to do this for you ... sorry
> 
> 
> 
> you can see 2 intakes on the right and 4 discharges. and how it is OPEN to the atmosphere which makes it IRRELEVANT to our conversation !
> 
> that pumps has to do alot more work,. because it isnt a loop,
> 
> in a LOOP the suction has a vacuum on the SAME pipe the discharge PUSHES on on a fishtank the pump has to SUCK the water in then force it out somewhere else, one does NOT help the other
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *DMatthewStewart*
> 
> BTW, heres a handy little chart of pressure and flow loss in CPVC and Copper tubing (since people are using copper tubing and CPVC is pretty similar to creating the same friction as our soft tubing). Weird, they list loss of heigh too just like our pump manufacturers do on their pumps? Why? Dont they know siphons exist and none of this matters? Anyways:
> 
> http://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/cts-cpvc-tube-friction-loss-d_1666.html
> 
> And just for kicks, here is the table for approximating pipe length (taking friction, gravity into consideration) But, what a waste of time! Obviously these engineers are just bored (and prob wrong). Or this just doesnt apply to our systems
> http://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/equivalent-pipe-length-method-d_804.html
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> again your comparing an OPEN LOOP to a CLOSED LOOP and trying to bridge them together........ you cant, BOTH have pertinence but again NOT WITH such a SIMPLE loop as we use, you are trying to make this take a engineer to make a simple loop
> 
> it is called OVER ENGINEERING now is anything i said NEGATING resistance/friction, no, it exists .... but we dont need to deal with it IN ORDER to design a loop
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *DMatthewStewart*
> 
> My original response included all the necessary links, a full explanation of pressure head, loss of pressure, maintaining velocity, et al. I went back and took it out because it was a very long block of text and figured it was getting too technical. Now we want to get technical? Lets do it. You can use those calculations (like I do) and get your own volume of fluid being pumped along with knowing what youre true velocity and head pressure are. Thats how I figure mine out without a flow-meter.
> 
> What do I need to read more on seross69?? Ive understood fluid dynamics for a long time. No one here seems to think its relevant for our systems because
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> again great for you..... i always seem to notice i bump into a whole lot of engineers on the world lied wide web
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *DMatthewStewart*
> 
> a) a siphon is possible and exists (irrelevant and different topic entirely) and
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> you just said this is irrelevant great ignoring and moving on
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *DMatthewStewart*
> 
> b) because there is such thing as an open loop.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> huh?
> 
> 
> there is 3 visual pics from just googling "whats the difference between an open water loop and a closed water loop "
> here is a link using the same search once again referencing CLOSED CIRCUIT cooling towers
> which ironically uses an OPEN LOOP on the outside of the closed loop......
> 
> more obfuscation
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *DMatthewStewart*
> 
> So what? It doesnt change the fact that friction affects us. It doesnt change that bends create additional friction. Itdoesnt change that we have a finite amount of power to push out fluid. None of that changes. No one has addressed that. When I did my fist hardline system I had a ton of 90 degree bends. One pump couldnt cut it. When I ran the calculations for 45 degree bends and using more straight (level) lines and a shorter vertical (aided by a 45 degree) I realized that one pump could handle a differently designed loop. And it works perfectly. Ive been using one pump ever since. If I go back to a bunch of 90 degree bends I need a second pump. *< That was the entire point.* From the original question. A poster asked if he needed two pumps. I said he was right on the cuff of needing two but could definitely use one comfortably and without worry if it was set up slightly differently.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> huh? who said that, we measure it in RESISTANCE which again is what you need to measure, as again a SIMPLE LOOP has at MOST 4 ish angle fittings and 2 blocks ?? NOT RELEVANT ....even if you get higher blocks {3+ gpu and 1 cpu } do i need to do any calculations ??? NO i can just add another pump while your method would definitely give you a finite number to grasp, yet we both come to the same conclusion that we need 2 pumps, does that make your way right and mine wrong?? no , mine is less scientific surely but just as right as you
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *DMatthewStewart*
> 
> @seross69
> 
> ^^Hes right about what? I said an open loop is a garden hose. So does Wikipedia. (see first response)
> 
> Since we are lowering ourselves to Wikipedia lets see what they say about an open loop
> 
> https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Open-loop_controller
> 
> Oh, under examples of an "open loop" they list a soil irrigation system. Like I said...a garden hose
> 
> What am I flat out wrong about? *List the points I am wrong on*. Who is using an open loop? (by the way, an "open" loop isnt a loop at all) A swimming pool being an open loop? So what? We arent using a large open pool to pull from. Pools have pretty srong pumps.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> "strong pumps?? what NOW you dont need your science ?>?!?? say it isnt so ! they list all the same specs on a pool pump as a normal pump .......
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *DMatthewStewart*
> 
> Ever see the size of those? They are relevant in size (actually scaled perfectly) to the amount of fluid being moved. If our systems had that much fluid our pumps would 4 feet high and 3 feet wide too! He diudnt make a single valid point. He instead tried to change the argument to something it isnt, wasnt, and wont be. Let me ask you this (since you seem to follow his logic)
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> more obfuscation
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *DMatthewStewart*
> 
> 1) Why do pump manufacturers list the maximum vertical lift height?
> 
> 2) Why does that matter?
> 
> 3) Is friction an important variable in moving fluid? If not, why not?
> 
> 4) If the answer to #3 is "No" than how do you explain the results from Martin's? Realistically, he shouldve been able to find no different results. Instead, he sees a reduction in flow and pressure head because, like I said, we arent suspending laws of fluid dynamics or gravity in our systems. Those laws arent bent, broken, or ignored.
> 
> 5) Why do block and radiator manufacturers always advertise and being "less restrictive"? If velocity, pressure, lift height, et al dont matter and are irrelevant then why bother engineering the product at all? Why bother doing a single calculation
> 
> 6) Instead of a pump in our system why dont we just start our loop with a siphon? It will run forever uphill against gravity, right? (Hint: Answer is "No". But why?)
> 
> *To all:* I am looking forward to everyones response on how our systems are somehow not affected by basics physics. Also, why dont we just put a large pot on top of our computer (an open pool) and just start it with a siphon. If fluid can move uphill against gravity, surely a pot on top of our computer, manually started with a hand pump, should just flow forever. Of course unless friction catches up with it. Or if the force of gravity gradually wears away pressure; which eventually makes it lose lift height. But thats ok. It will run for a long time, right?
> 
> Heck, why dont we just hook our computers up to our pool. Who cares if its a long way away. Fluid moves without any restrictions, right?
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> i have already answer most if not all of these, while you are trying to make everything difficult, arguing about 2 different systems and trying to show you are right, you are clearly smart, but holding on to over complcations for something we are trying to DUMB DOWN to make EASIER for the new people
> 
> now to where you are wrong which you have been 100% avoiding
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Costas*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *DMatthewStewart*
> 
> Having a pump at your tube res and then having another identical pump at the point where your flow has the largest vertical climb/lift. What this will do is ensure that the [head] pressure and gpm/lpm your pump(s) are spec'ed to push will stay consistent.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *DMatthewStewart*
> 
> longest/highest tubes where the fluid is lifted straight up. This is going to be the biggest killer of head pressure.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> This is only true in an open loop system.
> 
> For our closed loop systems the height/climb is totally irrelevant - It is pretty much just the friction losses the fluid needs to overcome.
> 
> Same goes for pump placement ie. it does not really matter where its placed in the loop.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> here...
> 
> THIS IS WHERE you are wrong
> 
> again you have a SIMPLE loop ( aka a closed loop ) , not a open loop
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> For our closed loop systems the height/climb is totally irrelevant - It is pretty much just the friction losses the fluid needs to overcome.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> the height/ climb is IRRELEVANT because in our loop for every inch/cm up we have to have the SAME inch/cm DOWN thus canceling each other out !
> It is pretty much just the friction losses the fluid needs to overcome --- which is so MINIMAL it is not even required to be measured
> 
> so now, i have gone through your argument, wasted far too much of my life tearing it down, proving it as wrong as needed and semi agreeing with you as you attempt to OVER COMPLICATE the issue to prove yourself right,
> 
> now this is important i am running off of 3 hours sleep and have PROBABLY massively misspelled stuff, and i am PROBABLY not making any sense on a few things I DO NOT CARE and will not answer another post,
> 
> i once again brought your argument back to the ORIGIN and VERIFIED that is correct,
> 
> i attempted to do so on the rest, but frankly i am tired and dont care, if you want to continue to tell us how right you are, i hope others will join, in not responding
Click to expand...

I dunno @Mega Man . . . . . .

I bet when he fills a "U" tube manometer, he has to fill both sides, because unlike everyone else's manometer, his doesn't equalize as the side being filled pushes up the other side.

Sometimes it's like tryin to teach evolution and archaeology to a creationist who thinks the pyramids are grain storage silos.









D.


----------



## Mystriss

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jsutter71*
> 
> Thank you very much Mystriss!!!! You really know your wiring. Are you an electrician? By the way. Nice Multimeter in the pics. I just went and bought myself a Fluke on Amazon. Better to be safe. In the mean time I'll be referring to your post a lot. Also, I saw what you said about the tiny numbering on the connectors. That made a big difference. Also Just to check my work I plugged my other pumps m connector into my my modded pumps now F connector.


Yay \o/

Naw, not an electrician, know some electronics (making PCBs,) but I've actually just made a lot of custom cables and done a bunch of custom wiring for my rigs over the years:



Spoiler: Pictures



                 



Multimeter's kinda my husband's, hes an RV tech, or well... he hit a moose and broke his neck so now he's a service writer and I got all his stuff. heh I use that fluke cause it does continuity, but my go to is actually a Snap-On probe (I just couldn't fit it in the pictures for ya well







):



Anyway, well worth having one even if it's just for peace of mind.









If you need any help with other cable stuff come on down to this forum http://www.overclock.net/f/17973/cables-and-sleeving All kinds of more knowledgeable cable peeps down there


----------



## smicha

Guys - short question: may I connect a D5 pump to a regular psu molex cable (as I have it now) and control D5 PWM signal by connecting its green/blue PWM cable to Aquaero fan (currently I have it connected to a mobo fan connector and control via bios settings). Any advice?


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *smicha*
> 
> Guys - short question: may I connect a D5 pump to a regular psu molex cable (as I have it now) and control D5 PWM signal by connecting its green/blue PWM cable to Aquaero fan (currently I have it connected to a mobo fan connector and control via bios settings). Any advice?


Short answer yes


----------



## smicha

Which fan connector? Any?


----------



## GTXJackBauer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *smicha*
> 
> Guys - short question: may I connect a D5 pump to a regular psu molex cable (as I have it now) and control D5 PWM signal by connecting its green/blue PWM cable to Aquaero fan (currently I have it connected to a mobo fan connector and control via bios settings). Any advice?


Any non-Aquacomputer D5 PWM pump needs to be modified to be controlled by the Aquaero because its not within intel spec.


----------



## smicha

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GTXJackBauer*
> 
> Any non-Aquacomputer D5 PWM pump needs to be modified to be controlled by the Aquaero because its not within intel spec.


What? Could you be more precise? What modification are you talking about? I am just asking about PWM cable connected to aqauero fan controller.


----------



## Willius

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *smicha*
> 
> What? Could you be more precise? What modification are you talking about? I am just asking about PWM cable connected to aqauero fan controller.


Search the thread for something like this: D5 Diva Mod. Can't do it for you since I'm on mobile. (Maybe it's on the OP too, don't know for sure)


----------



## jsutter71

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mystriss*
> 
> Yay \o/
> 
> Naw, not an electrician, know some electronics (making PCBs,) but I've actually just made a lot of custom cables and done a bunch of custom wiring for my rigs over the years:
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Pictures
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Multimeter's kinda my husband's, hes an RV tech, or well... he hit a moose and broke his neck so now he's a service writer and I got all his stuff. heh I use that fluke cause it does continuity, but my go to is actually a Snap-On probe (I just couldn't fit it in the pictures for ya well
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ):
> 
> 
> 
> Anyway, well worth having one even if it's just for peace of mind.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If you need any help with other cable stuff come on down to this forum http://www.overclock.net/f/17973/cables-and-sleeving All kinds of more knowledgeable cable peeps down there


Very nice. I'm just starting to get comfortable with my wiring skills. I just received a new Thermaltake Dr power power supply tester yesterday. It was able to identify a faulty power supply I had on hand right away. Yesterday when I was on Amazon I was going to settle and buy a low end multimeter, but then my wife who works from home, informed me that she needed me to buy her a UPS for her PC. I took that ball and ran with it and told her that I was going to also get a Multimeter. Over the years I've realized that a big purchase for her gives me a green light for me to get stuff, so I decided to splurge and get a much nicer Fluke meter.


----------



## DarthBaggins

Wish I had a Fluke, just stuck with my trusty Snap-On multi-meter (do like that testlight/meter combo though)


----------



## Mega Man

Look into field piece great meters, a few of the engineers from fluke broke off and made that company, the story goes when fluke would not listen to their ideas,
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mystriss*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *jsutter71*
> 
> Thank you very much Mystriss!!!! You really know your wiring. Are you an electrician? By the way. Nice Multimeter in the pics. I just went and bought myself a Fluke on Amazon. Better to be safe. In the mean time I'll be referring to your post a lot. Also, I saw what you said about the tiny numbering on the connectors. That made a big difference. Also Just to check my work I plugged my other pumps m connector into my my modded pumps now F connector.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yay \o/
> 
> Naw, not an electrician, know some electronics (making PCBs,) but I've actually just made a lot of custom cables and done a bunch of custom wiring for my rigs over the years:
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Pictures
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Multimeter's kinda my husband's, hes an RV tech, or well... he hit a moose and broke his neck so now he's a service writer and I got all his stuff. heh I use that fluke cause it does continuity, but my go to is actually a Snap-On probe (I just couldn't fit it in the pictures for ya well
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ):
> 
> 
> 
> Anyway, well worth having one even if it's just for peace of mind.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If you need any help with other cable stuff come on down to this forum http://www.overclock.net/f/17973/cables-and-sleeving All kinds of more knowledgeable cable peeps down there
Click to expand...

So sorry to hear about your husband :/


----------



## jsutter71

This is the fluke I went with
http://www.amazon.com/Fluke-117-Electricians-True-Multimeter/dp/B000O3LUEI


----------



## ruffhi

Well, this is fun. And I have had way more than 3 hrs sleep.

Firstly, I admit it ... I may have read more into your initial post that you put in it.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DMatthewStewart*
> 
> Uh, what? If height doesnt matter then why does every manufacture list it as a restriction? Are you saying that friction does not matter in our systems? That means that we have magically learned how to suspend:
> 
> 1) Laws of gravity
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 2) Laws of thermal dynamics
> 
> 3) Laws of fluid dynamics
> 
> Also, what is an "open loop system"? As far as I know, an "open" loop is just a garden hose
> 
> If anything you said is right then we can also disregard the tests and results from Martin's Liquid Lab. Im sorry, but you are 100% wrong in your above statement and challenge you to prove it. Stop giving people false information.
> 
> Almost everyone on this forum knows it (except for you) And you obviously didnt even check OCN before making such a blatantly ignorant comment
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1395198/do-90-degree-bends-in-loops-actually-affect-cooling/0_30 <--BTW, Martin's link is in there (I saved you from having to google it)


One of my take aways from the above comment was that you were saying that water cannot run up hill. I admit it (twice now) that you didn't actually say that. You said that we have 'magically learned how to suspend ... the laws os gravity' and I read that to mean water cannot run up hill. Are they the same ... probably not ... ok, No (thrice) they aren't.

Anyway, my comment was more a response to me reading that you said 'water cannot run up hill' (even though you didn't explicitly say that - four times).

Hence my syphon comment where water does run up hill.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ruffhi*
> 
> @DMatthewStewart ... ever used a siphon hose? You drain liquid from one container to a lower container using a hose. The hose can go up so that it is much, much higher than both contains ... and it will still drain. Providing the hose is completely full of liquid (ie closed).
> 
> From the wikipedia quoted above ..._There are two leading theories about how siphons cause liquid to flow uphill, against gravity, without being pumped, and powered only by gravity ..._


Now it is my turn to re-read my comment. I'm looking for where I say we should use a syphon in a water cooling loop (either open or closed). Nope ... cannot see it in my comment. Wait ... I will look again. Nope, not there.

Thus ... what the heck was this about?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DMatthewStewart*
> 
> Yes. Ive used a siphon hose before. Suction and pressure (created by the user at some point) start the flow. Your point? Even getting a siphon to go upwards doesnt requiring "leading theories" according to whomever thinks they understand fluid dynamics. Simple calculations will tell you how long it can last, what the pressure head and velocity head are. Ive included the links below. Furthermore, whether it is gravity, or initial pressure created from an outside source that creates a temporary vaccuum (like a siphon done by pump or human mouth), there is a way and reason to create initial pressure. Totally irrelevant to a contained system with a mechanical pump. The latter has less variables to determine pressure and head velocity. Furthermore, your quote about gravity moving a liquid and having it flow uphill says nothing about friction. Friction is one of the enemies in our systems. Again, just send an email to Martin's Liquid Lab and tell him that his findings are irrelevant because you know a siphon is possible. He'll laugh and say "So what?".
> 
> Why dont we all just start our loops with a siphon hose. Heck we can do that with our mouths. Then we wont need a pump at all, right? Heck, according to your logic it should flow uphill, against gravity (and for some reason everyone, not you particularly) are thinking that friction doesnt matter. We Dont Need Pumps at all...We can all save a lot of money. Try it.


I'm going to put it down to a good ol' rant. It is actually pretty good (on the scale of rants).


----------



## Mystriss

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jsutter71*
> 
> Very nice. I'm just starting to get comfortable with my wiring skills. I just received a new Thermaltake Dr power power supply tester yesterday. It was able to identify a faulty power supply I had on hand right away. Yesterday when I was on Amazon I was going to settle and buy a low end multimeter, but then my wife who works from home, informed me that she needed me to buy her a UPS for her PC. I took that ball and ran with it and told her that I was going to also get a Multimeter. Over the years I've realized that a big purchase for her gives me a green light for me to get stuff, so I decided to splurge and get a much nicer Fluke meter.


hahaha my husband and I have separate bank accounts and a "don't ask, don't tell" policy with purchases. I have a feeling he'd **** kittens if he saw my Amazon charges and I'd probably do the same if I saw his Snap-On account









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> Look into field piece great meters, a few of the engineers from fluke broke off and made that company, the story goes when fluke would not listen to their ideas,
> So sorry to hear about your husband :/


Naw he's fine, he actually came out of it surprisingly fine - went back to work (by choice) in 3 days; worst issue for him was that he lost a 3x2" strip of scalp to the roof metal and the stretching to fill the gap drove him absolutely nuts for a couple months. My car, and do note that I said MY car here, on the other hand... not so much recovery. for the ol' girl:


Spoiler: Pics



  



(Suppose I'll spoiler em kind OT heh)


----------



## seross69

I am selling a Aquacomputer D5 Pump Mechanics with USB and Aquabus Interface if anyone needs or wants one of these for a good price!!

http://www.overclock.net/t/1597362/aquacomputer-d5-pump-mechanics-with-usb-and-aquabus-interface


----------



## Costas

Just a short post to formally praise Aqucomputer (in particular Sven aka 'Shoggy') for their exemplary customer service.

Noted a fault with one of my D5 USB pumps in my current build just the other day.

Shoggy was on to it promptly and organised for me to purchase a replacement control board for the pump (works out much cheaper than me trying to return the pump to Aquacomputer as I'm on the other side of the globe).

So all 'done and dusted' within just a few hours of making contact with them....


----------



## jsutter71

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> I am selling a Aquacomputer D5 Pump Mechanics with USB and Aquabus Interface if anyone needs or wants one of these for a good price!!
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1597362/aquacomputer-d5-pump-mechanics-with-usb-and-aquabus-interface


May I ask why your selling it?


----------



## Mega Man

He always has extra stuffs, but he is very reputable and had been doing it for a long time,


----------



## Willius

Windows doesn't recognize my 6 XT. It says it malfunctions and exceeds the usb power limits.
Using a Asus Impact VII. Any suggestions?
I've got it all working on the hardware side of things, fans pumps temp sensors etc work fine.


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jsutter71*
> 
> May I ask why your selling it?


Changing build and going to use a bigger pump.. A Iwaki 24v pump!!


----------



## jsutter71

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> Changing build and going to use a bigger pump.. A Iwaki 24v pump!!


Is that a a 24volt d5? Do you only use 1 pump in your system. And if so, why just not add another D5? I have a brand new never used EK-XTOP Dual DDC 3.2 PWM with EK-XTOP Dual DDC XRES Upgrade, and 250mm reservoir with a multiport top that I need to sell. Also have a brand new never used Aquaero 5LT that I don't need.


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jsutter71*
> 
> Is that a a 24volt d5? Do you only use 1 pump in your system. And if so, why just not add another D5? I have a brand new never used EK-XTOP Dual DDC 3.2 PWM with EK-XTOP Dual DDC XRES Upgrade, and 250mm reservoir with a multiport top that I need to sell. Also have a brand new never used Aquaero 5LT that I don't need.


no the Iwaki is not a D5 and it is more powerful than 2 or even 4 D5's.. This is plenty of pumping power!!


----------



## Jidonsu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> no the Iwaki is not a D5 and it is more powerful than 2 or even 4 D5's.. This is plenty of pumping power!!


It's 24V, right? What's your plan for powering it? I just read Martin's test on it. Looks like a beast.


----------



## jsutter71

Are you adding a second power supply for that? Are you concerned about the noise? Why would you need a pump that powerful? If you don't mind me asking?


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jidonsu*
> 
> It's 24V, right? What's your plan for powering it? I just read Martin's test on it. Looks like a beast.


I have a convertor board so I will power it from my PSU..

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jsutter71*
> 
> Are you adding a second power supply for that? Are you concerned about the noise? Why would you need a pump that powerful? If you don't mind me asking?


No do not need 2nd PSU, it does not make that much noise, Dont need this pump but I want it!!


----------



## MR-e

"Don't need, but want" - words of wisdom right there


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sexpot*
> 
> "Don't need, but want" - words of wisdom right there


Already have the pump and used it in last build along with 6 D5 pumps!!! I like having a high flow rate!!!


----------



## Mega Man

Man after my own heart right there,

Everyone always asks me "why do you need 4 pumps, is your flow that poor/ high restriction"

My answer, "why DON'T I need 4 pumps/ if you have to ask you won't understand"


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> Man after my own heart right there,
> 
> Everyone always asks me "why do you need 4 pumps, is your flow that poor/ high restriction"
> 
> My answer, "why DON'T I need 4 pumps/ if you have to ask you won't understand"


I'm pretty sure you can't have too many pumps . . . .











D.


----------



## Mega Man

See, more crazy peeps like me, yayz!


----------



## electro2u

I know this is the AQ thread but i have one so heres my question. Is a quiet d5 like a lottery thing or is it more or less the same given a proper mounting solution.

Ive been battling with d5 hummmmm that seems amplified by my flimsy 750D's harmonic nature. Im on the brink of a re build but very unsure about config, going to just 1 d5 from 2 cases... atx or matx... help.


----------



## Mystriss

hmmm I think "in general" it depends what brand of pump. I've not listened to my AQD5 (though I expect it to be quiet enough as I'll be adjusting it through Aquaero), but my other pump, a Swiftech MPC655-PWM, itself is pretty quiet even at full power.

It would however hum if I like put it directly on my desktop, but a small piece of foam under the pump mount resolves that completely. The one I had was called a soggy sandwich (Bitspower maybe? I don't recall) My PSU causes a similar vibration induced resonance hum if my HTPC case is pushed tight against it as well, just have to decouple the case from the desk and it goes away. IIRC the testing method is that if like putting your hand around your pump casing causes a change in hums pitch then it is vibration induced resonance and you just need to decouple it, I think you could also test by placing your hand against the mounting spot on your chassis and listening for a pitch change.

I believe not only can the pump itself have a mechanical hum inherent to its design (usually they spec this dB level so consumers are aware of it), as well as that resonance hum in certain after-market mounting practices, but also the pump top or any pump cover we might put on it could create one as well so you'll have to narrow down the cause of it.

This can be more tricky than you might suspect, like with my PSU's hum it took me a while to figure out that it was actually the case "tapping" against the desk because it was intermittent - at first I thought it was the PSU's eco setting and it was a mechanical hum when the fan came on, but then I noticed that the fan was on and no hum... I was/am constantly pulling out my case for modding, sometimes when I was putting it in tight against the desk, sometimes not heh (I've since resolved the issue completely with a layer of cork against my desk so the chassis is always decoupled heh)


----------



## Jidonsu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> I know this is the AQ thread but i have one so heres my question. Is a quiet d5 like a lottery thing or is it more or less the same given a proper mounting solution.
> 
> Ive been battling with d5 hummmmm that seems amplified by my flimsy 750D's harmonic nature. Im on the brink of a re build but very unsure about config, going to just 1 d5 from 2 cases... atx or matx... help.


How do you have the pump mounted to the case? It helps if you have them soft mounted. For example, I'm have soft rubber washers between all mounting surfaces and screws. It helps to cut down the transfer of vibration. You can also try getting some Sorbothane pads.

Some D5s are indeed louder than others. It's likely due to unbalanced impellers.


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> I know this is the AQ thread but i have one so heres my question. Is a quiet d5 like a lottery thing or is it more or less the same given a proper mounting solution.
> 
> Ive been battling with d5 hummmmm that seems amplified by my flimsy 750D's harmonic nature. Im on the brink of a re build but very unsure about config, going to just 1 d5 from 2 cases... atx or matx... help.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jidonsu*
> 
> How do you have the pump mounted to the case? It helps if you have them soft mounted. For example, I'm have soft rubber washers between all mounting surfaces and screws. It helps to cut down the transfer of vibration. You can also try getting some Sorbothane pads.
> 
> Some D5s are indeed louder than others. It's likely due to unbalanced impellers.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mystriss*
> 
> hmmm I think "in general" it depends what brand of pump. I've not listened to my AQD5 (though I expect it to be quiet enough as I'll be adjusting it through Aquaero), but my other pump, a Swiftech MPC655-PWM, itself is pretty quiet even at full power.
> 
> It would however hum if I like put it directly on my desktop, but a small piece of foam under the pump mount resolves that completely. The one I had was called a soggy sandwich (Bitspower maybe? I don't recall) My PSU causes a similar vibration induced resonance hum if my HTPC case is pushed tight against it as well, just have to decouple the case from the desk and it goes away. IIRC the testing method is that if like putting your hand around your pump casing causes a change in hums pitch then it is vibration induced resonance and you just need to decouple it, I think you could also test by placing your hand against the mounting spot on your chassis and listening for a pitch change.
> 
> I believe not only can the pump itself have a mechanical hum inherent to its design (usually they spec this dB level so consumers are aware of it), as well as that resonance hum in certain after-market mounting practices, but also the pump top or any pump cover we might put on it could create one as well so you'll have to narrow down the cause of it.
> 
> This can be more tricky than you might suspect, like with my PSU's hum it took me a while to figure out that it was actually the case "tapping" against the desk because it was intermittent - at first I thought it was the PSU's eco setting and it was a mechanical hum when the fan came on, but then I noticed that the fan was on and no hum... I was/am constantly pulling out my case for modding, sometimes when I was putting it in tight against the desk, sometimes not heh (I've since resolved the issue completely with a layer of cork against my desk so the chassis is always decoupled heh)


I 2nd the Sorbothane pads these help a lot. The case you have is not made that well (not saying anything bad about it just facts) so you will have noise from all the case. I have found that if you decouple or isolate a pump correctly they are all quieter than fans. EXample is my Iwaki RD-30 at 1200 l/hr is as quiet as a D% or a DDC as long as I have it properly decoupled!!


----------



## electro2u

I have it mounted with aquacomputer ugly yellow rubber washer/bolt things. Its kind of just hanging off the back panel of the case (which flexes with a sheet metal clunk when you push on it with a pinky finger) with two of those holding it up and the tubing holding it in position.









But it looks clean!


I run my fans at like 600rpm. The pump hum is a lot louder. Interestingly, if I let the window side panel thumbscrews loose a little instead of all the way tight the hum goes down a good bit quieter, so it's pretty clear the case itself is amplifying whatever I did wrong.









I'm just screwed with case options. There is literally nothing on the market, period, regardless of money, that fits what I want. I have literally looked at every case that is for sale anywhere in quantity on the planet. The 750D/760T are pretty much it... except they are junk--the parts rattle and hum, the 5.25 cage doesn't fit anything correctly. I would buy an SM5 in a heartbeat but they stopped making them.

Honestly the Nova is pretty much what I want... except it doesn't have a nice external spot for the Aquaero. And it's mITX which blows. Why case manufacturers WHY? everything is a little too short or has a PSU cover you can't remove or just murphy's law for cases. it's ridiculous. I ordered a Nova and then cancelled it. If CaseLabs didn't require waiting 2 months I would have had one a long time ago. Zero patience.

I have about a week to wait until my replacement 980 Ti comes in and then I want to move everything to a different case. Something solid.

Edit: I ordered an Ethereal billet reservoir mount from Singularity Computers. I hope that will help.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jidonsu*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> I know this is the AQ thread but i have one so heres my question. Is a quiet d5 like a lottery thing or is it more or less the same given a proper mounting solution.
> 
> Ive been battling with d5 hummmmm that seems amplified by my flimsy 750D's harmonic nature. Im on the brink of a re build but very unsure about config, going to just 1 d5 from 2 cases... atx or matx... help.
> 
> 
> 
> How do you have the pump mounted to the case? It helps if you have them soft mounted. For example, I'm have soft rubber washers between all mounting surfaces and screws. It helps to cut down the transfer of vibration. You can also try getting some Sorbothane pads.
> 
> *Some D5s are indeed louder than others. It's likely due to unbalanced impellers*.
Click to expand...

Actually, it's a lot more likely caused by having sharp 90* fittings too close to the inlet, and to a lesser degree, outlet of the pump.

Anything that disturbs the column of water feeding and exiting the pump is going to make noise.

Decoupling the pump/case helps mask it, but doesn't do much to resolve the root of the problem.

Even just using the triple rotary 90's with their even sweeping curve, makes a big flow difference at a pump's inlet.

D


----------



## RnRollie

well... in that "case"..... you'll have to build something custom yourself... or design it and have protocase (for example) build the panels for you http://www.protocase.com/

actually... since these cases like the Nova always remind me of VCRs.... why not chase up an old Betamax VCR and convert it to a PC case?









I mean like...am i the only one who thinks of these when seeign the cases/enclosures?:
1990's rack mount UPS:


toaster


VCR


Marantz Amp/Equaliser


.


----------



## jsutter71

I need to make some Aquabus cables. What gauge wire should I use?


----------



## electro2u

This is why i came to this thread. Two posts and that's pretty much "case closed".
If you look at the way i have my pump top flowing out it hits a "t" with a ball valve on the end. So it's shooting out of the pump into a tiny dead end with an escape hatch out the side window.

I have been told this before but guess I didn't want to hear it at the time. I think that definitely is part of the issue.

I did have a good look at Protocase... neat. Very interesting. I think CAD work is out of my range. Do they do acrylic inserts and stuff? Probably.

I think the Silverstone TJ08-PRO looks interesting, if they will ever release it, and I don't have to mod a bigger window into it. I'm just not up for modding right now, no work space (divorced, tiny apartment).


----------



## RnRollie

protocase has their own online web cad/builder thingie.. you can spend hrs there.. and then ask for a quote... and then it stops... becuz if it becomes really "custom" work, the quote will be....eh... not cheap
They exist more for enclosures, not full-fledged PC-cases... but if you need a "simple box" and do the rest yourself, they could be an option compared to buying a PC case and ripping it apart


----------



## electro2u

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RnRollie*
> 
> protocase has their own online web cad/builder thingie.. you can spend hrs there.. and then ask for a quote... and then it stops... becuz if it becomes really "custom" work, the quote will be....eh... not cheap
> They exist more for enclosures, not full-fledged PC-cases... but if you need a "simple box" and do the rest yourself, they could be an option compared to buying a PC case and ripping it apart


Gotcha. Yeah they look expensive. Like CaseLabs be cheap range. I've had 2 760s and a 750D, one of the 760s I took a lot of metal out of and made it worse than it already was in terms of "flimsy".

And I will bring the topic back around to the Aquaero: I have to be able to look and touch the thing. I love it; it's one of the main things about the system for me. Even just having the clock there to look at, which is what it idles on. So every single case on the market that has no mounting solution for bay devices is out. And most of the newer good looking "enthusiast" cases are bayless/use a flip door/and/or have massive issues. Take the Phanteks Evolve ATX for example. It's basically closed off. Intake volume is strangled by the design.


----------



## MR-e

Guys is there an Aquaero 6 LT in existence? Bruce showed me a pic of his but I can't find it online at any retailers.


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sexpot*
> 
> Guys is there an Aquaero 6 LT in existence? Bruce showed me a pic of his but I can't find it online at any retailers.


you can make any of them a LT, just remove the screen and it is a LT!!

they dont make one and bruce did this to get the one he has!!


----------



## MR-e

Ah~ makes sense, I was hoping for a retail LT sku as it's a lot cheaper than the Pro/XT models. In that case, the cheapest solution would be to purchase an Aquaero 6 Pro and remove the LCD, thus losing all physical control of the module? I'm planning to mount it internally and just use Aquasuite to control the whole thing. Am I doing it right?


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sexpot*
> 
> Ah~ makes sense, I was hoping for a retail LT sku as it's a lot cheaper than the Pro/XT models. In that case, the cheapest solution would be to purchase an Aquaero 6 Pro and remove the LCD, thus losing all physical control of the module? I'm planning to mount it internally and just use Aquasuite to control the whole thing. Am I doing it right?


that would work and if you have room you dont even have to remove the screen can keep it together and still mount it internally


----------



## MR-e

S8S is very cramped, I'm not planning on using the flex bay so I'll need to mount it somewhere hidden. Thanks very much for the quick responses!


----------



## Mystriss

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jsutter71*
> 
> I need to make some Aquabus cables. What gauge wire should I use?


Aquabus cables use 22 gauge. They're 4pin PWM fan cables/connectors


----------



## MR-e

Hey guys, just ordered an AQ6 Pro and USB D5... I want to add moar! How do I calculate which flow sensor is required for my loop? I see there's a few models and I will have the following config:

1x EK Supremacy Evo x99 full nickel
1x EK Titan X Nickel/Acetal
1x EK 140 XRES Revo Glass /w AQ D5 USB
1x HWLabs GTS 240
2x HWLabs GTS 360
Acrylic 16mm Tubes

Which flow sensor do I pick? I think the Flow Sensor MPS Flow 200 is the way to go?


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sexpot*
> 
> Hey guys, just ordered an AQ6 Pro and USB D5... I want to add moar! How do I calculate which flow sensor is required for my loop? I see there's a few models and I will have the following config:
> 
> 1x EK Supremacy Evo x99 full nickel
> 1x EK Titan X Nickel/Acetal
> 1x EK 140 XRES Revo Glass /w AQ D5 USB
> 1x HWLabs GTS 240
> 2x HWLabs GTS 360
> Acrylic 16mm Tubes
> 
> Which flow sensor do I pick?


Any will work, i like the mechanical usb high flow sensor! Easier to set up but really depends on what you like!!


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sexpot*
> 
> Hey guys, just ordered an AQ6 Pro and USB D5... I want to add moar! How do I calculate which flow sensor is required for my loop? I see there's a few models and I will have the following config:
> 
> 1x EK Supremacy Evo x99 full nickel
> 1x EK Titan X Nickel/Acetal
> 1x EK 140 XRES Revo Glass /w AQ D5 USB
> 1x HWLabs GTS 240
> 2x HWLabs GTS 360
> Acrylic 16mm Tubes
> 
> Which flow sensor do I pick? I think the Flow Sensor MPS Flow 200 is the way to go?


nope. Get either the mps400 or the usb high flow. The mps200 is limited to 200 liter per hour which will be around 0.88 GPM. You might have a larger flow than that in your loop and will not be able to read 0.9 gpm from 1.2 gpm. 400 is almost up to 2 GPM which is good for most loops. MPS400 have the advantage of been noiseless, really high flow (with low restriction added) and small. High flow usb add a bit more restriction to the loop, is a bit larger and can produce some noise specially at high flow and if is not oriented with the faceplate up. All that been said I had two mps 400 units failing on me within a 1 year period while the 3 high flow units I have never failed... So there you go. My two cents. While I tend to favor the mps 400 in the past I would probably go with the usb high flow these days because in my experience they have been more reliable.


----------



## MR-e

Wow that's a great review, thanks for your advice! i really like the concept of the mps400 with the integrated temp sensor and not having to be oriented upwards to be noiseless. I'll take a gamble on the MPS400 and hopefully have one that doesn't croak


----------



## jsutter71

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sexpot*
> 
> Wow that's a great review, thanks for your advice! i really like the concept of the mps400 with the integrated temp sensor and not having to be oriented upwards to be noiseless. I'll take a gamble on the MPS400 and hopefully have one that doesn't croak


Why not the Aquacomputer MPS Pressure Sensor Delta 1000?


----------



## Mega Man

it is not designed for flow, that is a different tool for a different job


----------



## golfleep

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sexpot*
> 
> Wow that's a great review, thanks for your advice! i really like the concept of the mps400 with the integrated temp sensor and not having to be oriented upwards to be noiseless. I'll take a gamble on the MPS400 and hopefully have one that doesn't croak


I'm planning to use the mps400 sensor in an upcoming build as well. About the integrated temp sensor, apparently it's very laggy in it's responsiveness. Stren goes into more detail in his review of the mps400:

http://www.xtremerigs.net/2013/04/30/aquacomputer-mps-400-flow-sensor/


----------



## jsutter71

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *golfleep*
> 
> I'm planning to use the mps400 sensor in an upcoming build as well. About the integrated temp sensor, apparently it's very laggy in it's responsiveness. Stren goes into more detail in his review of the mps400:
> 
> http://www.xtremerigs.net/2013/04/30/aquacomputer-mps-400-flow-sensor/


I'm almost finished my build so I'll let you know.


----------



## MR-e

Nice, looking forward to the finished build!


----------



## jsutter71

Thank you...just need to finish plumbing the bottom compartment but have everything installed including the second pump. I also need to mod a few cables and that should be it.


----------



## Costas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *golfleep*
> 
> I'm planning to use the mps400 sensor in an upcoming build as well. About the integrated temp sensor, apparently it's very laggy in it's responsiveness. Stren goes into more detail in his review of the mps400:


Yeh the internal temp sensor on these is really a waste of time as the actual sensor is not immersed in the liquid as such like most other coolant sensors.

Note that you really need to also be able to calibrate these MPS flow sensors if you want a reasonably accurate flow reading. Their readings will vary substantially depending on whet fittings are screwed into them and if they are mounted in close proximity to bends. Aquacomputer advise a minimum of 50mm straight tubing run in and out of these sensors before hitting any bends.


----------



## MR-e

Hmm, without the know how on calibrating the MPS400, would the High Flow USB be a better plug and play flow sensor in regards to accuracy? I see the internal water temp is meh on the MPS400 so I'll skip that then.


----------



## Costas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sexpot*
> 
> Hmm, without the know how on calibrating the MPS400, would the High Flow USB be a better plug and play flow sensor in regards to accuracy?


Head over to the following thread as you will find some calibration curves for the MPS series of flow meters with different fittings attached. AFAIK no one has posted any cal curves for hardline tubing and fittings. Now that my current build is nearing completion I may get time to generate some calibration curves for the MPS 400 + 200 sensors for 16MM hardline and fittings (as that is what I have lying around).

http://www.overclock.net/t/1501978/ocn-community-water-cooling-test-thread

The USB HiFLow is OK or even the non USB variant. I have used these and I still have one in my current rig. They are easy to setup as no calibration is required however as mentioned earlier they emit a ticking sound when flowing at high rates eg 1.5GPM plus. At lower rates such as <1.0GPM they are essentially totally quiet.

Hi Flow sensor ticking examples:


----------



## MR-e

Hmm, if my main tubing is 16mm Acrylic, and my bottom rad compartment is using 5/8 x 7/16 ek zmt tubing, will that play a factor of the flow in general? How about when factoring in a flow sensor in the bottom rad with the zmt tubing? Will the two different sizes throw everything off? Or should I have ordered the 3/4 x 1/2 zmt tube?


----------



## ForNever

Anyone know if it's possible to use an Aquaero 6 XT as a temp controlled switch? For instance, if temp sensor 4 > 30C close contact in order to turn something on? Zero voltage going through it, just closing a ground connection.


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ForNever*
> 
> Anyone know if it's possible to use an Aquaero 6 XT as a temp controlled switch? For instance, if temp sensor 4 > 30C close contact in order to turn something on? Zero voltage going through it, just closing a ground connection.


Short answer yes it is you have to plug one of the relays in


----------



## Costas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sexpot*
> 
> Hmm, if my main tubing is 16mm Acrylic, and my bottom rad compartment is using 5/8 x 7/16 ek zmt tubing, will that play a factor in the flow in general? How about when factoring in a flow sensor in the bottom rad with the zmt tubing? Will the two different sizes throw everything off? Or should I have ordered the 3/4 x 1/2 zmt tube?


The tubing will not make too much difference - its really the fitting that screws onto the flowmeter which will affect it the most.


----------



## gyik

does anyone know why I can not control my pwm EK D5 pump with Aquaero 6 XT? it is running only on 2000rpm, I did not found any way to change it, if I changed from 100% to 99%, or to any, the pump stops, 0 rpm.
any idea?


----------



## Mega Man

See below
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *chimaychanga*
> 
> Subbed § Can I join please
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A6 XT
> 
> Btw Darlene.. any solution yet to controlling the PWM D5 on A6 ? doh I didnt read your topic
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yes, . . . .
> 
> There's a really good way with an add-on PCB, but there's also a quick and easy way that yields acceptable results without having to run wires and plug into a 5V molex pin somewhere.
> 
> Here's copied from the "old" A6 thread with some additional information:
> 
> For the capable DIY'er . . .
> 
> While not as optimal a solution as the active component based solutions, this is a workable solution to the issue of having a PWM D5.
> 
> 
> 
> I've tried it on a single and a dual D5 setup and it works satisfactorily with pullups optimized for each case, and it's dead nuts simple, though not exactly elegant.
> 
> At issue is that the D5 needs a fairly "strong" pullup, (lower resistance) . . . while the A6 works best with weaker pullups, (higher resistance).
> 
> This setup uses the 12V available from the first 2 of the 4 PWM fan pins on each channel of the A6.
> 
> The Zener diode and larger resistor form a 5V regulated source that the smaller resistor connects the PWM line to.
> 
> The diode is a 5.1V Zener diode, and the larger resistor, the 1/2 W one, is a 560 Ohm, but 470, 680, 820, or 1K will work as well. 1K may be the easiest to find.
> 
> Be sure you have the Zener diode polarity connected as in the pic.
> 
> The smaller resistor, 1/4 W, is a 2.2K which I'd suggest for a dual D5 setup, but for a single D5, a 3.3K would be fine.
> 
> The smaller size, 1/6W or 1/8W are electrically OK, but the smaller physical size makes lead breakage more of an issue, so stay with 1/4W.
> 
> Everything shown is available from RadioShack.
> 
> Hope that helps,
> 
> Darlene
Click to expand...

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *chimaychanga*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> The green and blue wires are the PWM and tach wire for the D5 connector.
> 
> That mod goes right on the D5's 4 pin connector that plugs onto the A6.
> 
> The easiest way to do it might actually be to make up a short extension cable with the mod on the extension cable's plug.
> 
> Google Zener Diode, and you'll see how they work so they can create a 5V source from the 12V that's present on the power pins of the A6 fan connectors.
> 
> Darlene
> 
> 
> 
> But why do you have 2 of each wire ?? and did you solder the diode and resistors on to the fan terminals?
> 
> EDIT:
> I see now.. you have 2 D5 pump cables underneath your sleeving
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> right ?
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Yes, that cable was made as a Y cable for a dual D5 setup, but could seem confusing with the extra wires.
> 
> The diode and large resistor are each soldered to a terminal.
> 
> Here's the easiest way to implement the mod, . . . . as a short, 2 wire extension for the PWM and tach signals
> :
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Darlene
> 
> Update:
> 
> Here's the little modded extension cable installed, note that the pullup resistor is a 3.3K, basically a workable compromise for either single or dual D5's, but really better suited to a single:
> 
> 
> 
> Here's the scope with only 1 of the D5's PWM line connected, notice that the pulse voltage is right about 3.4V max, and very near 0V min.
> 
> Ideally, the max should be right at 5V, but the D5's electronics load the circuit down some.
> 
> 
> 
> Now here's the scope with both D5's PWM line connected, notice it's now loaded down to about 2.5V.
> 
> The lower max pulse voltage can be accounted for with slightly higher percentage settings in Aquasuite.
> 
> 
> 
> Note also that max voltage for both single and dual setups does go up a little as the pulse width is increased.
> 
> What's really important in both cases, is that the pulse's "off time" voltage stays very close to 0V.
> 
> If the pullup resistor is lowered to 1k or so, the max voltage comes up very close to 5V, but the "off time" voltage climbs up closer to .8V or so, and then the pump doesn't see it as off time any more , and runs full speed with no regards to the pulse width.
> 
> That's why if you have a dual D5, use a 2.2K when you make your cable, and a 3.3K if you have a single D5.
> 
> Darlene
Click to expand...


----------



## smicha

What is you controller page?


----------



## Biggu

hello guys, I cannot help but feel like I have the wrong product for my need.

I have an Aquacomputer aquaero 5 LT, and im looking to run 2 PWM fans (goes into a fan splitter where each PWM will run 8 fans) and I want to have the aquaaero run PWM signals from my EK d5 PWM pumps. Is this something that could be accomplished with the aquaero 6?


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Biggu*
> 
> hello guys, I cannot help but feel like I have the wrong product for my need.
> 
> I have an Aquacomputer aquaero 5 LT, and im looking to run 2 PWM fans (goes into a fan splitter where each PWM will run 8 fans) and I want to have the aquaaero run PWM signals from my EK d5 PWM pumps. Is this something that could be accomplished with the aquaero 6?


you will not be able to control your EK pwm pump with the aquaero. d5 pwm implementation does not follow intel specs. The only d5 pwm following intel specs is the Aquacomputer model which was modified to it. You will need the IT Diva mod (see mega man post above) to control your d5 pwm. That been said yes the aq 5 lt is a bit short on pwm fan headers (only 1). so you would need to run pump (with diva mod) and all fans from that same channel. Aq 6 give you 4 fan headers with pwm capability.


----------



## Biggu

thanks, looks like this 5 lt is up for sale then.


----------



## iBruce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Biggu*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> thanks, looks like this 5 lt is up for sale then.


Grab a new Aquaero 6 XT or Pro, (4) PWM channels, you will LOVE it.









REMOVE the front panels and they become A6 LTs.

http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalogsearch/result/?q=aquaero+6


----------



## deeph

Hi,

Recently I update my Aquasuite but after updated my HWiNFO not detected in Aquasuite. Before, it showed up in Aquasuite. What is the solution?


----------



## InfoSeeker

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *deeph*
> 
> Hi,
> 
> Recently I update my Aquasuite but after updated my HWiNFO not detected in Aquasuite. Before, it showed up in Aquasuite. What is the solution?


When I updated to aquasuite 2016-4, it did so with Windows Services disabled.
So let's start at the most basic level... are Windows Services enabled in aquasuite & HWiNFO?


----------



## deeph

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *InfoSeeker*
> 
> When I updated to aquasuite 2016-4, it did so with Windows Services disabled.
> So let's start at the most basic level... are Windows Services enabled in aquasuite & HWiNFO?


Yes, both the same like you pointed in the pic.


----------



## InfoSeeker

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *deeph*
> 
> Yes, both the same like you pointed in the pic.


I'll assume you have re-booted the system, and I don't have any other thoughts as to why HWiNFO does not show available in aquasuite.
I also updated to 2016-4 and I can see both HWiFO & AIDA64.

Perhaps some of the more clever folks here will have some additional thoughts.


----------



## deeph

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *InfoSeeker*
> 
> I'll assume you have re-booted the system, and I don't have any other thoughts as to why HWiNFO does not show available in aquasuite.
> I also updated to 2016-4 and I can see both HWiFO & AIDA64.
> 
> Perhaps some of the more clever folks here will have some additional thoughts.


Yes, I also have rebooted the system. Also tried turn off the PC for a few minutes.


----------



## deeph

Well, just uninstalled then installed again from freshly downloaded HWiNFO 5.22 and now detected in Aquasuite








Problem solved!


----------



## Panther Al

Have a question for you all -

Looking at adding a flow meter to my build, and trying to figure out which of the ones Aquacomputer makes would be best suited for things.

AQ6 controller, running through a circuit that has 3 rads cooling a three way system with a pair of D5 pumps. Two are probably overkill, but I like redundancy.

Any suggestions, or pointers to information I can poke through to figure it out?


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Panther Al*
> 
> Have a question for you all -
> 
> Looking at adding a flow meter to my build, and trying to figure out which of the ones Aquacomputer makes would be best suited for things.
> 
> AQ6 controller, running through a circuit that has 3 rads cooling a three way system with a pair of D5 pumps. Two are probably overkill, but I like redundancy.
> 
> Any suggestions, or pointers to information I can poke through to figure it out?


To me best one is the usb high flow meter, dont really have to calibrate and easy to use, a little bigger than the others but i like them!!!!


----------



## jsutter71

Questions regarding Pressure sensor 1000

I have incorporated the flow 400 which is plugged into the flow port on my Aquaero. I have obtained a pressure sensor 1000 that I would also like to add. Other then the USB and Aquabus cables, what connectors would plug into the High and low ports on the bottom of the device? Also, since the flow 400 is plugged into the flow port on my Aquaero, could I use a splitter for both devices? Or would that be redundant or not needed since I'm going to be using the USB and Aquabus connections?


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jsutter71*
> 
> Questions regarding Pressure sensor 1000
> 
> I have incorporated the flow 400 which is plugged into the flow port on my Aquaero. I have obtained a pressure sensor 1000 that I would also like to add. Other then the USB and Aquabus cables, what connectors would plug into the High and low ports on the bottom of the device? Also, since the flow 400 is plugged into the flow port on my Aquaero, could I use a splitter for both devices? Or would that be redundant or not needed since I'm going to be using the USB and Aquabus connections?


the list of compatible devices for high and low ports can be found in the aquaero manual. If memory still serves you can put at least 4 different aquabus devices sharing the same port as long as you config each individually to have a different bus address.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *jsutter71*
> 
> Questions regarding Pressure sensor 1000
> 
> I have incorporated the flow 400 which is plugged into the flow port on my Aquaero. I have obtained a pressure sensor 1000 that I would also like to add. Other then the USB and Aquabus cables, what connectors would plug into the High and low ports on the bottom of the device? Also, since the flow 400 is plugged into the flow port on my Aquaero, could I use a splitter for both devices? Or would that be redundant or not needed since I'm going to be using the USB and Aquabus connections?
> 
> 
> 
> the list of compatible devices for high and low ports can be found in the aquaero manual. If memory still serves you can put at least 4 different aquabus devices sharing the same port as long as you config each individually to have a different bus address.
Click to expand...

Don't forget that the Aquabus low has been disabled now for quite some time . . . at least a year's worth of Aquasuite upgrades and firmware updates.

D.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Don't forget that the Aquabus low has been disabled now for quite some time . . . at least a year's worth of Aquasuite upgrades and firmware updates.
> 
> D.


yep. And was only compatible with tubemeter and multiswitch anyway...


----------



## jsutter71

I was actually referring to the high and low ports on the pressure sensor 1000.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jsutter71*
> 
> Questions regarding Pressure sensor 1000
> 
> I have incorporated the flow 400 which is plugged into the flow port on my Aquaero. I have obtained a pressure sensor 1000 that I would also like to add. Other then the USB and Aquabus cables, what connectors would plug into the High and low ports on the bottom of the device? Also, since the flow 400 is plugged into the flow port on my Aquaero, could I use a splitter for both devices? Or would that be redundant or not needed since I'm going to be using the USB and Aquabus connections?


That refers to high and low pressure ie ( going from memory which is dangerous ) the high would be placed at the bottom of your res ( in contact with the water, only need like 1/4 tubing for this fyi )the low can be left open to atmosphere IF you have a pressure equalizer membrane on the top of your res, otherwise it would go to the top of your res (again 1/4 tubing is fine ) it will measure the pressure difference and can tell you if the water gets low in your res,

Another possible use is to tell if your filters are clogged you would put ( again from the top of my head ) high before the filters and low after and ones the pressure drop becomes too little your alarm can say " need to clean filters"

Again this is just a few ways to use them


----------



## jsutter71

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> That refers to high and low pressure ie ( going from memory which is dangerous ) the high would be placed at the bottom of your res ( in contact with the water, only need like 1/4 tubing for this fyi )the low can be left open to atmosphere IF you have a pressure equalizer membrane on the top of your res, otherwise it would go to the top of your res (again 1/4 tubing is fine ) it will measure the pressure difference and can tell you if the water gets low in your res,
> 
> Another possible use is to tell if your filters are clogged you would put ( again from the top of my head ) high before the filters and low after and ones the pressure drop becomes too little your alarm can say " need to clean filters"
> 
> Again this is just a few ways to use them


Well the inputs are to small for normal size fittings so I'm not sure what type of fittings could be used for this.


----------



## Mega Man

iirc g1/8 fittings

edit wrong

http://aquacomputer.de/handbuecher.html?file=tl_files/aquacomputer/downloads/manuals/mps_english_20150323.pdf

pg 21 M5 thread fittings

also noted here

http://shop.aquacomputer.de/product_info.php?language=en&products_id=2902

?? @Shoggy does aquacomputer sell m5 to g1/4 adapters ?


----------



## jsutter71

Ok I need to check if this configuration is possible. From My Aquaero 6XT I have one farbwerk daisy chained via Aquabus cable to another Farbwerk, also daisy chained to a poweradjust 3 ultra. Then the Poweradjust is connected via Aquabus cable to a aquabus cable splitter. The splitter will have two Aquacomputer USB d5 pumps, one flowmeter 400, and lastly the pressure sensor 1000. Lastly all these devices will be connected trough USB.


----------



## Mega Man

idk if the farbwerk is a mips device another @Shoggy question, i know you can control 2

but the rest should be ok i think , pumps are not mips device, and your limited to 2 pumps

the rest of the mips ( you have3 ) are fine ( max four )


----------



## RDKing2

I was confused about the pumps at first. Only the Aquastream pumps have their own addresses. The D5 aquabus is part of the mps family. The Farbwerk now uses the old multiswitch addresses.

Shoggy can correct this if wrong but it should be current:
2 Aquastream pumps- address 10-11 2 ea
mps devices- mps flow, mps pressure, D5 address 12-15 4 ea
Farbwerk- address 20-21 2 ea
PowerAdjust 1, 2, 3- address 50-57 8 ea


----------



## Mega Man

your right, and imo the d5s being mps is stupid :/

even the compact pumps are " pump" addressed not mps...

however that means you can have 4 usb d5s >.>


----------



## RDKing2

I agree the D5's should be able to use the Aquastream addresses. @jsutter71 you still are fine. Just maxed out on the MPS devices. I am not totally sure if the address limitation is still imposed when using USB only connections.


----------



## Mega Man

no aquabus only


----------



## RDKing2

So why do people use both aquabus and USB at the same time? Makes more sense to use one or the other.


----------



## Mega Man

easier to do firmware updates when needed then reattaching your usb every time


----------



## Costas

Not only for firmware update ease but also handy in that some devices have additional programming/confguration options which are only accessible via the USB connection and not via Aquabus.

Sometimes a user may wish to alter one of these options and it can be a pain in having to plug in a USB cable to do this, especially if the device is not easily accessible buried deep in your case somewhere.


----------



## RDKing2

I did read that more options are available on some devices with USB and also see the benefit of firmware update on devices that may need it. I can see using a combination of USB or Aquabus on different devices. I just do not see the need to use both connections on all devices. Initailly it just confused things more (at least for me). Have to set priority on the connection and if I recall the device shows up twice in Aquasuite. After changing the address on my second PA by USB I connected via Aquabus and deleted the USB entry. So what is the benefit of connecting Aquabus as well if you are going to use USB anyway?


----------



## Mega Man

If only connected by usb it's it's own device that is 100% separate and can only use its own temp sensors ect

Via aquabus it is now controlled via aquaero and can share sensors with it.

Getting tired, hope that makes sense


----------



## Costas

With just a USB connection the device only appears in the Aquasuite software.

With an Aquabus connection it appears in the actual Aquaero's LCD menu structure and it can therefore be controlled directly from the Aquaero itself without requiring a running PC. This makes your cooling system totally independent of the PC - An important feature for many of us.

Full time connection of USB is certainly not required... it's just handy for some to have that option.


----------



## Mega Man

They all can be run without a pc, although some would be useless ...


----------



## Costas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> They all can be run without a pc, although some would be useless ...


Yes due to no comms between all the devices..


----------



## Shoggy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jsutter71*
> 
> I have obtained a pressure sensor 1000 that I would also like to add. (...) Also, since the flow 400 is plugged into the flow port on my Aquaero, could I use a splitter for both devices?


The mps pressure 1000 makes not much sense for most system. It would be able to to measure reservoirs with a height of 10 meter or to detect a differential pressure of 1 bar for components which might make sense for special tests but not regular usage. The problem here is that all pressure sensors have the same basic resolution so with a 1000 variant the steps between measured values become quite large. Just a fictitious example, let us say the resolution is 100 steps.

mps pressure 40 / 100 -> a step every 0.4 cm
mps pressure 100 / 100 -> a step every 1.0 cm
mps pressure 500 / 100 -> a step every 5.0 cm
mps pressure 1000 / 100 -> a step every 10.0 cm

So with this example the 1000 variant and a reservoir that has 30 cm you could just say it is empty, half full or full. I do not know the real resolution. It is much higher but the problem stays the same.

The more important thing: this sensor does not belong to the flow port of the aquaero! It can damage the sensor if you connect it there. You can only connect it to the aquabus port (aquabus <-> aquabus).

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> ?? @Shoggy does aquacomputer sell m5 to g1/4 adapters ?


No, would be also useless since you can not put two of them next to each other.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> idk if the farbwerk is a mips device another @Shoggy question, i know you can control 2


The farbwerk has its own range since it is also a completely different device of its own kind.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RDKing2*
> 
> Shoggy can correct this if wrong but it should be current:
> 2 Aquastream pumps- address 10-11 2 ea
> mps devices- mps flow, mps pressure, D5 address 12-15 4 ea
> Farbwerk- address 20-21 2 ea
> PowerAdjust 1, 2, 3- address 50-57 8 ea


The full list is

2x aquastream XT or ULTIMATE
8x poweradjust 2/3
1x aquaero 5/6 LT (in this case only 4x poweradjust 2/3)
4x mps-based devices (D5 USB, flow and pressure sensors)
2x farbwerk
1x real time clock module

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> your right, and imo the d5s being mps is stupid :/
> 
> even the compact pumps are " pump" addressed not mps...


It is not like we say this device will be X now. It depends on the hardware they use and the compact pump uses an aquastream XT controller while the D5 pump uses an mps controller - the same which is used in the sensor. It is exactly the same board but only equipped a bit different.


----------



## jsutter71

Thanks all. Great information. So after reading your description Shoggy I think that pressure sensor 1000 wouldn't be any benefit for my system. I mean who uses a 10 meter reservoir? What pressures sensor is recommended if any for a system like mine with a 880ml reservoir? The reason I got the 1000 was because I misunderstood its capabilities.


----------



## Mega Man

My wheels are turning for my geothermal build.....


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> My wheels are turning for my geothermal build.....


Depending on location real easy to do i have all the figures some where!! Just need to rent a hole auger go down about 5 to 6 feet , coil copper around something so you have this in hole and fill with sand and loose packed dirt do this maybe 2 times and you got it!!! In colorado like i think you are this will be hard but very effective as i am sure ground temp low!!???


----------



## Mega Man

I'll post a link later .... hint you need to think bigger....


----------



## Shoggy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jsutter71*
> 
> Thanks all. Great information. So after reading your description Shoggy I think that pressure sensor 1000 wouldn't be any benefit for my system. I mean who uses a 10 meter reservoir? What pressures sensor is recommended if any for a system like mine with a 880ml reservoir? The reason I got the 1000 was because I misunderstood its capabilities.


The mps pressure 40 will be fine. It is enough for almost every regular PC system. The other types are more interesting to measure larger pressure differences or for industrial stuff.


----------



## hyp36rmax

Whats the best practice to monitor system temps on the A6? How do I connect the included temp probes? Can I link HWINFO64 with the Aquasuite to the A6 screen? Do I need a direct connection to my motherboard USB to achieve this?


----------



## jsutter71

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> The mps pressure 40 will be fine. It is enough for almost every regular PC system. The other types are more interesting to measure larger pressure differences or for industrial stuff.


Thank you Shoggy. Now what to do with the 1000 I have on hand. After this build is complete, which will be this week, I'm going to be selling some never used equipment that I purchased in the last 6 months for this build, but decided not to use. Sensors, controllers, pumps, reservoirs, and LOTS of EK fittings.


----------



## jsutter71

Ok..Shoggy or anyone else who can answer my question. Using the pressure sensor 40, I'm assuming you can connect it to my reservoir port that Is available in the picture below. My question is, that by using the M5 push in connector that is listed at the Aquacomputer webshop to connect to the Delta 40, what fitting could I use to connect that to the reservoir? Also, I'm a little uncomfortable using push in fittings. Is their a compression fitting alternative?


----------



## ForNever

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hyp36rmax*
> 
> Whats the best practice to monitor system temps on the A6? How do I connect the included temp probes? Can I link HWINFO64 with the Aquasuite to the A6 screen? Do I need a direct connection to my motherboard USB to achieve this?


I use OpenHardwareMonitor. You can utilize the software sensors from it in AS. I use gaffers tape for the temp probes, but most medical tape works quite well if you can't find it. I prefer these two, because the adhesive, while strong, isn't going to wind up a sticky mess when ever you remove it some time down the road.

Yes, you will need a usb connection to get a software temp to read out on the A6. First setup which ever temp you want to monitor in Aquasuite. Click on sensors, software sensors, click on software sensor 1 and name it what ever you want, then select the source from hwinfo64. Now go to your information pages and drag the software sensor you want over to the right pane.


----------



## Mega Man

fyi openhardwaremonitor tends to be glitchy in my experience, HWINFO imo is far better and far more polished, totally your guys choice, both do the same thing


----------



## GTXJackBauer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> fyi openhardwaremonitor tends to be glitchy in my experience, HWINFO imo is far better and far more polished, totally your guys choice, both do the same thing


Agree. HWiNFO works great. Not one single issue for me personally.


----------



## Shoggy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jsutter71*
> 
> Using the pressure sensor 40, I'm assuming you can connect it to my reservoir port that Is available in the picture below. My question is, that by using the M5 push in connector that is listed at the Aquacomputer webshop to connect to the Delta 40, what fitting could I use to connect that to the reservoir? Also, I'm a little uncomfortable using push in fittings. Is their a compression fitting alternative?


You could connect it there but I am not sure if it will work correctly. Ideally it should be connected to a port where the water remains without movement while at this port I assume the pump could cause some differences in the pressure and alter the readings.

A compatible G1/4 fittings is this one. We do not have this size available as compression fitting.


----------



## inoran81

Hi guys... Since we are sort of in this topic of mps pressure sensor... Can I ask which port should I place the pressure equalisation membrane G1/4 on my aquatube on the bay mount since there ain't no top port available to work as the fill level?

Alternative I was thinking of using a 90d extender fitting to connect to the 'highest' port and attach the pressure equalisation membrane - but I was afraid of the coolant over flowing out via that - anyone done this config before?


----------



## jsutter71

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> You could connect it there but I am not sure if it will work correctly. Ideally it should be connected to a port where the water remains without movement while at this port I assume the pump could cause some differences in the pressure and alter the readings.
> 
> A compatible G1/4 fittings is this one. We do not have this size available as compression fitting.


Thank you. I put in a order with Aquacomputer last night for the MPS 40 last night with the appropriate fittings


----------



## jsutter71

I'm having an issue with the LED strips. Has anyone else had issues with the adhesive on the back of the strips. I purchased two 500 cm IP65 strips from PPCS because I like the quality better. Last night after spending much time making them look like the pictures below, I woke up this morning to discover the higher strips hanging like curtains. Those strips ARE NOT cheap. Just those two 500 cm strips cost me $75.90. My wife would flip out if I told her. So, I looked at 2 sided tape for LED strips, but if anyone has any better suggestions I'm all ears.

Before they fell


----------



## Mystriss

http://mnpctech.com/case-mods-gaming-pc-liquid-modding-custom-computer-mnpctech-overclock-cooling-fan-grills/3m-4010-tape.html probably your best bet


----------



## hyp36rmax

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jsutter71*
> 
> I'm having an issue with the LED strips. Has anyone else had issues with the adhesive on the back of the strips. I purchased two 500 cm IP65 strips from PPCS because I like the quality better. Last night after spending much time making them look like the pictures below, I woke up this morning to discover the higher strips hanging like curtains. Those strips ARE NOT cheap. Just those two 500 cm strips cost me $75.90. My wife would flip out if I told her. So, I looked at 2 sided tape for LED strips, but if anyone has any better suggestions I'm all ears.
> 
> Before they fell


This can happen. Did you make sure to thoroughly clean the surface with alcohol or similar cleaner before applying the strips?


----------



## jsutter71

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hyp36rmax*
> 
> This can happen. Did you make sure to thoroughly clean the surface with alcohol or similar cleaner before applying the strips?


To be truthful. No, but this is a new case. I think the LED strips might be old stock. The reason I say this is because when I was pulling of the adhesive cover of the back of the strips, I noticed that part of the strip's adhesive began separating from the strip itself. I lost about two feet of strip before I realized what was happening. Also, not sure where PPCS has it's warehouses, but the company is based out of Florida. Florida has terrible humidity. Humidity and tape equals bad performance.


----------



## hyp36rmax

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jsutter71*
> 
> To be truthful. No, but this is a new case. I think the LED strips might be old stock. The reason I say this is because when I was pulling of the adhesive cover of the back of the strips, I noticed that part of the strip's adhesive began separating from the strip itself. I lost about two feet of strip before I realized what was happening. Also, not sure where PPCS has it's warehouses, but the company is based out of Florida. Florida has terrible humidity. Humidity and tape equals bad performance.


I hear you on that. I'm anticipating a couple strips of ip67 LEDs from ppcs for my farbwerk as well. Damn that humidity.


----------



## Gabrielzm

USe 3M double side tape. Most pre-made led stripes comes with crap tape.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jsutter71*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *hyp36rmax*
> 
> This can happen. Did you make sure to thoroughly clean the surface with alcohol or similar cleaner before applying the strips?
> 
> 
> 
> To be truthful. No, but this is a new case. I think the LED strips might be old stock. The reason I say this is because when I was pulling of the adhesive cover of the back of the strips, I noticed that part of the strip's adhesive began separating from the strip itself. I lost about two feet of strip before I realized what was happening. Also, not sure where PPCS has it's warehouses, but the company is based out of Florida. Florida has terrible humidity. Humidity and tape equals bad performance.
Click to expand...

I use the 3M VHB tapes for stuff that has to gotta stick for damn sure scenarios . . .

4905 is the .020" thick version, while 4910 is the .040" version.

Both are clear so you don't notice them there, and for regular metal surfaces, the 4905 works wonders.

For more irregular surfaces, the thicker version can have some advantages.

McMaster has it in various widths, I get the 1/2" wide.

http://www.mcmaster.com/#3m-vhb-tape/=122yta8

Darlene


----------



## jsutter71

Not wanting to take any chances I got these three things
http://www.amazon.com/LCDGlue-Adhesive-Backing-Branded-Microfiber/dp/B01C6JIGEY?ie=UTF8&psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00

http://www.amazon.com/Rextin-Meters-Double-Adhesive-Lights/dp/B00N7D62HC?ie=UTF8&psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00

http://www.amazon.com/Rextin-Brand-Doubled-Adhesive-Repair/dp/B00EORHKKI?ie=UTF8&psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00


----------



## jsutter71

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> I use the 3M VHB tapes for stuff that has to gotta stick for damn sure scenarios . . .
> 
> 4905 is the .020" thick version, while 4910 is the .040" version.
> 
> Both are clear so you don't notice them there, and for regular metal surfaces, the 4905 works wonders.
> 
> For more irregular surfaces, the thicker version can have some advantages.
> 
> McMaster has it in various widths, I get the 1/2" wide.
> 
> http://www.mcmaster.com/#3m-vhb-tape/=122yta8
> 
> Darlene


Ok...Amazon had it also in several sizes. I went ahead and got the 9.5mm 4910 version.


----------



## jsutter71

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> USe 3M double side tape. Most pre-made led stripes comes with crap tape.


My experience as well. Another thing is with 2 sided Velcro. I'm using Modmytoys spliters a lot in my build, and I've had to replace their velcro with industrial strength that I got from Lowes. Oh for anyone using the NZXT USB hub, I have a suggestion. The NZXT hub and the Modmytoys splitters are almost the exact same width. The difference is that the Modmytoys splitters uses a nice slide in mount for the PCB. The NZXT hub just uses a piece of velcro attached to the back of the PCB. I quick and easy mod, was to purchase an extra Modmytoys hub like the one in the link below, and cut it to fit the length of the NZXT hub. That way, the NZXT hub has air circulating behind it's PCB, and it attaches much better. I think their was a tiny, about 1.5mm width difference, but a little silicone secured it in place.
http://www.amazon.com/8-Pin-Power-Distribution-PCB-ModTek/dp/B00OU6TXDU?ie=UTF8&keywords=modmytoys&qid=1461273356&ref_=sr_1_3&sr=8-3


----------



## mechanic2

I have done geothermal or ground source heat pump installations. In Colorado 5 or 6 feet won't be deep enough. You need to be at least 5 or 6 feet below the maximum frost depth. I don't know what it is in the part of CO that you are in but if you are at an elevation above about 3000 feet you will need to go pretty deep. Also you want the cooling lines and loops to lie on a bed of soil and then have soil put in until the loops are covered in at least one foot of soil. Sand won't work as it is a very poor conductor of heat. It also doesn't store much energy. As you put the soil in wet it down as you get a foot or soil in.
Continue doing this until the loops are completely buried. This will insure maximum contact and heat conduction between the loops and the soil. It is also very important to make sure that there are no rocks of any kind in the soil. One rock laying against the the tubing will rub a hole in it and then the tubing will have to be dug up and repaired. Very time consuming and expensive.
The wells need to be at least 30 inches in diameter and 36 is better. The tops of the loops must be at least 5 feet below the frost line. If you have the space a better and less expensive way is to dig 36 inch deep drenches that are at least 5 feet below the maximum frost line. These drenches should be 36 inches across. You lay the tubing in in over lapping loops on a one foot deep bed of soil. The drenches should be long enough to accommodate all of the tubing that comes in one bundle. Again add soil and wet it down as you go until you have at least a foot of soil completely covering the loops.
Go talk to the suppliers of ground source heat pump equipment. The good companies will be more than glad to help you. After everything is all hooked up the loops have to be purged of all air. If the loop is not completely free of air it will quickly destroy the circulation pumps. If they come to fill it late on a Friday, ask them to please come back on Monday. Trust me in that this is best. Well I do hope that this helps.
Thanks,
rich
Newbie to liquid cooling.
rich!


----------



## Mystriss

On the Trans-Alaska Pipeline we had to add thermosyphons to prevent the permafrost from melting and eroding the foundation of the pipeline supports. They use liquid ammonia in the syphons up here to transfer heat out in the winter, in the summer they do nothing as the soil is a natural cooler for the permafrost layer.)

I wonder if something similar could be devised for an underground liquid cooling system.


----------



## Lynkdev

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iBruce*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Lynkdev*
> 
> copy thanks.
> 
> I noticed under my fans that they only run at 10.4 volts but rated at 12v. Im using a AX 1200i. Could this be why they dont sound as loud? *how would i get them up to 12v or is that just because i have 4 headers split between 33 fans?*
> 
> 
> 
> The eLoops are very airflow sensitive fans, honestly you can place a Demciflex filter in front of them and they fall on their face, rpms drop about 150rpms, and more importantly airflow drops to almost nothing.
> 
> RPMs and airflow do not scale in a linear fashion with my eLoop 140mm PWMs, they work extremely well in *unobstructed PUSH configuration*, that's how I'm using my (2), but in PULL ONLY or PUSH/PULL the PULL side does little or nothing at all. (except look extremely nice)
> 
> I love the fans, would not use anything else with my Hardware Labs Multiport 280 (low FPI of 9) in PUSH ONLY, they are most likely the best choice for an inaudible low fan rotation rig, but you must be aware of their severe restrictions.
> 
> As far as how many you can run from a single A6 channel and maintain maximum RPMs and voltage to each fan, I would refer that question to the great IT DIVA.
> 
> Give us some awesome photos of your eLoops in action, please.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Mine tested inaudible up to 75%PWR at normal sitting distance, using a single Aquaero 6 LT channel.
Click to expand...

Forgot to upload some pics, will do so tonight!

Sent from my SM-N920V using Tapatalk


----------



## mechanic2

Hello all,
I have an Aquaero 6XT and eventually I will be getting a 5LT. Here are some pictures of my build.

At this point I only have the first case. This is a Thermaltake Core X-9 case. I will be getting a second case. I have installed the motherboard and I am working on the wiring. The CPUs are installed but I don't have the coolers for them at this point. They are on the way. This case comes with 4 USB 3 ports but the MB only has one USB connection. I will be adding a USB expansion card to accommodate those ports.


Here is a front view of the case. I won't be retaining the 200mm fan, I am going to replace it with two 120mm PWM fans. I have two of the 200mm fans if anyone should need them. The computer that you see sitting on the floor is my print server and audio center.


This is a view of my HDD bays. Each bay can hold three drives, I will eventually remove these bays and use an entirely different setup. That is a 120mm fan and I will be replacing it with a 140mm PWM blue LED fan. The connection at the rear of the MB is the front Audio connections.


Here is a view of my MB and CPUs. That is a FirePro W5000 graphics card with 2 GB of ram on board. It will be replaced by two GeForce GTX980 cards with 4 GB each. You can see where I am working on installing two external USB 2 ports.


We are up and running. The TV card is mounted in the last slot. You can see the USB 3 card in the next slot. You can also see the blue LED fans under the hard drives and at the back of the case.


I don't remember what I was doing in the register editor. Something probably did not install correctly and I am in the process of completely removing it.


I am working on various configurations. I now have the second case. The MB and drives are in the bottom case but in the final configuration I will put them in the upper case. I didn't physically remove them. I just put the upper case underneath the lower case.


There is the second 200mm fan which I will be removing and replacing with 2 140mm fans. You can see the DVD reader/writer drive and the PlusDeck Cassette player.


I am going to modify that bracket with the two oblong cutouts. My SSD will be mounted on it and I will drill holes in it so that I can mount several SSDs on it. The large Cube computer is my work station with XP Pro 32bit installed on it. It has a Tyan MB with dual Opetron 280 dual core 2.1 GHz processors and 4 GB of ram on board. The system that I am building has an AsRock EP2C612WS MB. There are dual Intel i7 1.6GHz 2603 6 core processors and 32 GB of Ram on board. Eventually there will be 128 GB of ram. I am running Win8.1 Pro 64 bit and this system is at least ten times faster than my XP machine.


These brackets are set up as side radiator mounts. They can also be set up under the HDD cages. You then mount fans on them and they install into the bottom of the case. The cages mount on top. I haven't removed the protective plastic from the side cover.


I am waiting for my liquid cooling parts. You can see my backup tapes. Yes, that is a turntable. It is a lower end Pioneer but it works well and sounds good. There are my albums behind it. That is a Pentium system that is used to control a model railroad. And there is an APC UPS sitting on the floor. You can also see my Panasonic KX-P1124i dot matrix and the HP LJ 1100 printers in the background. There is one of the 5.1 channel speakers.


Here is the front view showing the DVD drive and the PlusDeck. I am still using the 200mm fans right now. If you look closely you can see the out line in dust on the front of the case.


The upper radiator mounts come in two pieces. I am designing and building a single piece radiator mount. Here you can see the layout and where I have started cutting the fan holes. I am building this to mount 120mm fans and 480mm radiators. It will be much easier to handle by doing it this way. I can do the radiator interconnect and the fan wiring with it removed from the case.


Here is the finished mount ready to go to be powder coated.


Here is that bracket with the SSD mounted on it. This drive will become my boot drive. Yes, it is large enough as I only install the OS and what demands to be installed on the C drive. I have separate drives for my application programs and my games. You can also see the holes for mounting a second SSD and you can see holes in the other leg of the bracket for mounting additional SSDs.


Here is one of those brackets with fans installed in it. This bracket will go in the bottom of the upper case and then a HDD cage will be mounted on top of it.


Yeah, my liquid cooling parts are here. It is an early Christmas.










I am in the process of sorting and inventorying the parts. In the background are my instruments that I use in designing and testing electronics.


I have assembled the D-5 pump, Aqualis pump lid, and the 880ml fountain reservoir. I have also installed the passive heat sink and the liquid block on to the Aquaero 6XT.


Here is a good picture of the PlusDeck. You can see the AquaCool 240mm Monsta radiator behind the two 120mm PWM fans. I haven't installed the isolation mounts as of yet.


I am installing the Aquaero and the PA3 into a drive bay. You can see the passive heat sink installed on the PA3. I will eventually drill additional holes to be able to mount more PAs or even an AE5LT.


I have the complete system torn down. I am modifying the cases. I have to drill holes in the upper case to install a couple of bulkhead connectors to bring the tubing from the lower case to the upper case. I also will be cutting holes in the bottom of the case to take the tubing through for a drain system. There will be a hole underneath the D-5 to give me access to the connectors on the bottom of the pump. You can see the two 200mm fans sitting on the floor. The cup has a soapy water solution in it.


I am experimenting with how to layout the new HDD configuration.


Ah, it is starting to come back together. That is not the final configuration for the upper drive bays, Eventually it will be the DVD drive, PlusDeck, and the AE6. I don't have everything that I need to finish this part of the build. I can't hook up to the processors so the air coolers will stay on for now. You can see how I will eventually be mounting the HDDs. Also all of the wiring is temporary as I have not done any sleeving on it. That small PS in the background was being used as a plug.


The new mount is back from being powder coated. What do you think?


Here the mount is in place. I am waiting on two more filter assemblies. Yes, the system is up and running and my camera is fast enough to stop the blades.


The radiator and pump-reservoir assemblies are installed. The upper case is laying upside down behind the lower case. I am also working on the pump wiring.


That is a SilverStone Strider ST-1500 in the background. It blew up two weeks ago and I have to send it back to SS. The supply that is in front is a ST-850. The 1500 will used to power the MB, CPUs, Expansion cards, and the HDDs. The 850 will power the GPUs, the pumps, an expansion MB that I am going to install in the lower case. The 850 is now operating in place of the 1500 until I get it back and the 750 that was in my XP machine has taken the place of the 850 for now.


The drain system is installed and the tubing running up to the processors is in place. I have started working on the layout of the tubing going to the radiator and the wiring to the Aqualis and the pump. There is a problem here. Can anyone spot it.


My helper cat Stripes. My other cat Spider is someplace close by. I love them dearly but fur is a constant problem.


This is the final layout for the DVD drive and the AE6. The PlusDeck goes in the middle. Most of the time I don't have to remove the AE to work on it. I can just remove the drive and PD to gain access.


I am working on the layout for the tubing going to the AE and the fan wiring. I am waiting on some parts to finish the tubing hook up. I am using 16/12 tubing for the major components and 12/8 for minor components such as the AE and the HDDs.


This is a sample of the sleeving that I am doing. I have been underestimating how much sleeving is needed by almost two to one. I finally figured out that since the sleeving is being expanded by the wire that it is being put on it is also shrinking up. I have 14 more wires to do in the main harness. I also still have wires to sleeve that go to the drives and other equipment. This sleeving is black in color. When I install the GTX cards I will be sleeving the PCIe wiring in the same blue sleeving that I have used on the CPU and MB wires.


This is my other cat Spider. She likes to lay on top of the system. There are eight fans up there pulling air into the system. I actually got her to pose for me.


----------



## Costas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mechanic2*
> 
> This is my other cat Spider. She likes to lay on top of the system. There are eight fans up there pulling air into the system. I actually got her to pose for me.


I hope you have some good intake filters on your intakes...


----------



## mechanic2

Costas,
Oh, yes. In the pictures you can see the filters on the fans and there are additional filter screens located under the covers.
Thanks,
rich!


----------



## Costas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mechanic2*
> 
> filters on the fans and there are additional filter screens located under the covers.


Good to see you are using filters - Otherwise I would have suggested something along the lines of these....


----------



## DerComissar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Costas*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *mechanic2*
> 
> filters on the fans and there are additional filter screens located under the covers.
> 
> 
> 
> Good to see you are using filters - Otherwise I would have suggested something along the lines of these....
Click to expand...

LOL!







Rep+








I have to deal with that all the time.


----------



## Costas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DerComissar*
> 
> I have to deal with that all the time.


Is that the cat talking about you? - sure looks like it from your cat's expression in the photo.

I use to have 2 indoor cats years ago, so I am all too familiar with vacuuming fur.

Haven't had any cats around for the last few years but my 6yr old daughter is bugging me for a cat or two...


----------



## mechanic2

Hello all,
I never could warm up to them. I like my cats with fur on them. I used to have a long hair. Wow. She was a sweet heart and a character but the ex made me get rid of her before she got rid of me. Oh, well.
rich!


----------



## DerComissar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Costas*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *DerComissar*
> 
> I have to deal with that all the time.
> 
> 
> 
> Is that the cat talking about you? - sure looks like it from your cat's expression in the photo.
> 
> I use to have 2 indoor cats years ago, so I am all too familiar with vacuuming fur.
> 
> Haven't had any cats around for the last few years but my 6yr old daughter is bugging me for a cat or two...
Click to expand...

She lets me know when she wants something, lol.
We got her for my son when he was 10, I'm sure your daughter will be delighted to get a cat.









And yeah, the fur is a pita, as well as keeping her bloody scratch marks off the top of the case, lol!


----------



## Costas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DerComissar*
> 
> keeping her bloody scratch marks off the top of the case, lol!


Oh.. yes forgot about that issue as well...


----------



## mechanic2

Hello all,
Yeah, the fur. You brush, clean, vacuum, and pick up. You can train your cat to not scratch on the furniture using a couple of techniques. One put scratching poles or other such devices in a multitude of locations. The next is you put some spray bottles in various locations. Right after you set up the scratching spots take your cat around and introduce her to them. Take her front paws and gently scratch each item. You want the her to be able to scratch without having to look for a spot. The spray bottles are for you. You don't want to have to look for a bottle when your cat is scratching on the furniture. When she starts scratching in the wrong place give her a squirt of water and tell her bad cat, bad cat in a not unkind tone of voice. Then pick her up and use her front paws to scratch one of scratching spots. These spots don't need to be poles. A stack of magazines or an old chair that you don't care about. It won't take long for her to understand where she can scratch and where she can't.
Tanks,
rich!


----------



## Mega Man

@Shoggy I think I found a bug.

When adj key sensitivity on the aquaero randomly the aquaero will start clicking like I am pushing a button and become unresponsive. One it did it with the enter button (when I was adj the enter button) and it moved the test icon like it was supposed to. The other 4 time it was with other buttons never at the same sensitivity (Even on the same button).

to fix i i have to remove power
Hope this may help


----------



## GTXJackBauer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> @Shoggy I think I found a bug.
> 
> When adj key sensitivity on the aquaero randomly the aquaero will start clicking like I am pushing a button and become unresponsive. One it did it with the enter button (when I was adj the enter button) and it miffed the test icon like it was supposed to. The other 4 time it was with other buttons never at the same sensitivity (Even on the same button).
> 
> Hope this may help


I've been going through this same issue since day one. The front has been RMA'd 3 times now. One of the three was being sent the wrong colored LEDs but the 3rd time the right one was sent. I still have the existing issue. I've increased the sensitivity but still get no action. It works off of a cold boot no problem but after a few hours, no bueno. Even the LEDs decide to shut themselves down on certain cold boots. As we speak, I need to shut off the PC via PSU switch and restart her up again to get the LEDs displaying again.


----------



## NeeqOne

I don't know if my Aqua Computer Flow Sensor MPS 400 is faulty or I am doing something wrong. It reads 0gals/m when the USB pump is below 60%. Even at 100%, the flow sensor only reads 0.9gals/m. Any help on how to fix this will be very much appreciated.


----------



## jsutter71

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mechanic2*
> 
> Hello all,
> I never could warm up to them. I like my cats with fur on them. I used to have a long hair. Wow. She was a sweet heart and a character but the ex made me get
> rid of her before she got rid of me. Oh, well.
> rich!


I like my cats with fur also. I went ahead and got the Demciflex filters because of my two Siameese cats


----------



## jsutter71

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> I use the 3M VHB tapes for stuff that has to gotta stick for damn sure scenarios . . .
> 
> 4905 is the .020" thick version, while 4910 is the .040" version.
> 
> Both are clear so you don't notice them there, and for regular metal surfaces, the 4905 works wonders.
> 
> For more irregular surfaces, the thicker version can have some advantages.
> 
> McMaster has it in various widths, I get the 1/2" wide.
> 
> http://www.mcmaster.com/#3m-vhb-tape/=122yta8
> 
> Darlene


Quick update on the 2 sided tape. I received the 10mm 4910 yesterday. It was supposed to arrive tomorrow, but It arrived a day earlier. Their is a Amazon warehouse just south of San Antonio where I live. Anyways about the tape. This stuff is AWESOME!!!! I could have saved so much money on LED strips if I knew about it sooner. The 4910 sticks very well on my Caslabs case. I didn't need to clean or prepare the surface in order for it to work. The 4910 seems very thin. It applies easy to the strips, then I just removed the peeling from the tape as I applied to the case. The glue adhesive allows you to smooth out the tape on the strips during application. To sum up, it's sticky enough to allow the thicker IP65 LED strips to stay attached but not so sticky where it's messy or difficult to correct. The older adhesive is very unforgiving if you make a mistake, peel back and straighten out, reapply, but the 3M4910 has no problems with corrections. I applied yesterday, and today when I checked, the strips STAYED where I wanted them to.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NeeqOne*
> 
> I don't know if my Aqua Computer Flow Sensor MPS 400 is faulty or I am doing something wrong. It reads 0gals/m when the USB pump is below 60%. Even at 100%, the flow sensor only reads 0.9gals/m. Any help on how to fix this will be very much appreciated.


update the firmware, has to be connected via usb, goto that device and update the firmware


----------



## NeeqOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> update the firmware, has to be connected via usb, goto that device and update the firmware


Thanks for the info. Updating the firmware fixed the issue with the flow sensor reading 0gal/min at 50% power for the pump. At the moment, the flow sensor reads 0.5gal/min at 55% power and 0.9gal/min at 100%. I believe this is too low.

My loop connection is as follows: Monsoon MMRS with PUMP > Flow Sensor > Radiator (SR2) > GPU > CPU. This is a temporary set up as I am waiting for a couple of components from PPCs. I do not know if this is calibration issue or problem with my loop or faulty sensor.


----------



## mechanic2

I am a Siamese cat fan. I grew up with them. Is there anyone here who can help me with configuring my AquaSuite?
Thanks,
rich!


----------



## aquacomkev45

I own an aquaero 6 XT # 53206 I'd like to be added


----------



## hyp36rmax

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jsutter71*
> 
> Quick update on the 2 sided tape. I received the 10mm 4910 yesterday. It was supposed to arrive tomorrow, but It arrived a day earlier. Their is a Amazon warehouse just south of San Antonio where I live. Anyways about the tape. This stuff is AWESOME!!!! I could have saved so much money on LED strips if I knew about it sooner. The 4910 sticks very well on my Caslabs case. I didn't need to clean or prepare the surface in order for it to work. The 4910 seems very thin. It applies easy to the strips, then I just removed the peeling from the tape as I applied to the case. The glue adhesive allows you to smooth out the tape on the strips during application. To sum up, it's sticky enough to allow the thicker IP65 LED strips to stay attached but not so sticky where it's messy or difficult to correct. The older adhesive is very unforgiving if you make a mistake, peel back and straighten out, reapply, but the 3M4910 has no problems with corrections. I applied yesterday, and today when I checked, the strips STAYED where I wanted them to.


Awesome glad to hear it's working out for you. I added a couple IP76 LED's with the clear shroud and it actually a lot easier to use since the sticky tape is on the shroud and not on the LED itself. You can actually pull the LED from it for maintenance without distrupting the actual tape if you really wanted to.


----------



## Mystriss

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jsutter71*
> 
> Quick update on the 2 sided tape. I received the 10mm 4910 yesterday. It was supposed to arrive tomorrow, but It arrived a day earlier. Their is a Amazon warehouse just south of San Antonio where I live. Anyways about the tape. This stuff is AWESOME!!!! I could have saved so much money on LED strips if I knew about it sooner. The 4910 sticks very well on my Caslabs case. I didn't need to clean or prepare the surface in order for it to work. The 4910 seems very thin. It applies easy to the strips, then I just removed the peeling from the tape as I applied to the case. The glue adhesive allows you to smooth out the tape on the strips during application. To sum up, it's sticky enough to allow the thicker IP65 LED strips to stay attached but not so sticky where it's messy or difficult to correct. The older adhesive is very unforgiving if you make a mistake, peel back and straighten out, reapply, but the 3M4910 has no problems with corrections. I applied yesterday, and today when I checked, the strips STAYED where I wanted them to.


Hey thanks for the update/review on the tape, I may have to buy a roll based upon your experience when I secure LED accent lighting


----------



## GTXJackBauer

I also have an issue with my AC LEDs hanging as we speak. Purchased a "TapeCase 0.375 in Width x 5 yd Length, Converted from 3M VHB Tape 4905" in hopes that will do the trick. I hope they can easily be removed down the road should it arise.

Originally, I had purchased a 3M double sided tape but its obvious wasn't strong enough. It was a 3M Core Series XQ (Black). Don't know exact model on it.


----------



## Costas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NeeqOne*
> 
> Thanks for the info. Updating the firmware fixed the issue with the flow sensor reading 0gal/min at 50% power for the pump. At the moment, the flow sensor reads 0.5gal/min at 55% power and 0.9gal/min at 100%. I believe this is too low.
> 
> My loop connection is as follows: Monsoon MMRS with PUMP > Flow Sensor > Radiator (SR2) > GPU > CPU. This is a temporary set up as I am waiting for a couple of components from PPCs. I do not know if this is calibration issue or problem with my loop or faulty sensor.


What calibration run have you loaded into the sensor?

Can you show a closeup pic of it in your rig? It could be that the fittings you have chosen affect its calibration or it may even be the in/out tubing run configuration.

The sensors are fairly sensitive to flow disruption/turbulence as the coolant enters the sensor.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NeeqOne*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> update the firmware, has to be connected via usb, goto that device and update the firmware
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for the info. Updating the firmware fixed the issue with the flow sensor reading 0gal/min at 50% power for the pump. At the moment, the flow sensor reads 0.5gal/min at 55% power and 0.9gal/min at 100%. I believe this is too low.
> 
> My loop connection is as follows: Monsoon MMRS with PUMP > Flow Sensor > Radiator (SR2) > GPU > CPU. This is a temporary set up as I am waiting for a couple of components from PPCs. I do not know if this is calibration issue or problem with my loop or faulty sensor.
Click to expand...

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Costas*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *NeeqOne*
> 
> Thanks for the info. Updating the firmware fixed the issue with the flow sensor reading 0gal/min at 50% power for the pump. At the moment, the flow sensor reads 0.5gal/min at 55% power and 0.9gal/min at 100%. I believe this is too low.
> 
> My loop connection is as follows: Monsoon MMRS with PUMP > Flow Sensor > Radiator (SR2) > GPU > CPU. This is a temporary set up as I am waiting for a couple of components from PPCs. I do not know if this is calibration issue or problem with my loop or faulty sensor.
> 
> 
> 
> What calibration run have you loaded into the sensor?
> 
> Can you show a closeup pic of it in your rig? It could be that the fittings you have chosen affect its calibration or it may even be the in/out tubing run configuration.
> 
> The sensors are fairly sensitive to flow disruption/turbulence as the coolant enters the sensor.
Click to expand...

also some pics of the device in aquausuite please


----------



## NeeqOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> also some pics of the device in aquausuite please


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Costas*
> 
> What calibration run have you loaded into the sensor?
> 
> Can you show a closeup pic of it in your rig? It could be that the fittings you have chosen affect its calibration or it may even be the in/out tubing run configuration.
> 
> The sensors are fairly sensitive to flow disruption/turbulence as the coolant enters the sensor.


This is my ghetto setup at the moment. I have also attached the screen of the Flow sensor. Thanks


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## Mega Man

have to ask the easy stuff

did you import the correct calibration curve ?


----------



## NeeqOne

This is the one I imported: http://www.overclock.net/t/1501978/ocn-community-water-cooling-test-thread/140_20#post_22685682


----------



## Willius

I cannot get my 6XT connected through USB. Windows doesn't recognize it. When it sees its connected it shuts down the connection because the device is "faulty"Any ideas?

I'm using a Asus z97 Impact


----------



## NeeqOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Willius*
> 
> I cannot get my 6XT connected through USB. Windows doesn't recognize it. When it sees its connected it shuts down the connection because the device is "faulty"Any ideas?
> 
> I'm using a Asus z97 Impact


Have you checked the orientation of the USB at both the aquaero and MB? You might be connecting it wrongly.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NeeqOne*
> 
> This is the one I imported: http://www.overclock.net/t/1501978/ocn-community-water-cooling-test-thread/140_20#post_22685682


i would start with the stock profile ! closest to your ID of tubing


----------



## Willius

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NeeqOne*
> 
> Have you checked the orientation of the USB at both the aquaero and MB? You might be connecting it wrongly.


Tried different orientations. Sadly the usb 2 header shares some functions with an Asus feature. So the manual is very unclear about it.


----------



## Mega Man

ah i know the port which you speak,

if you plugged in the usb in the wrong direction you may of damaged the aquaero

any pics of which side you are using ( one side of the port will have 22 sets of 4 pins, the other will have *1 set of 5 pins and 1set of 4 pins* the bold is the usb port, the side with the "extra" pin is the ground aka the black wires


----------



## NeeqOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> i would start with the stock profile ! closest to your ID of tubing


I am using the stock profile for the MPS 400 as my fittings are 3/8" ID x 5/8" OD. However, I am getting the same reading.


----------



## Willius

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> ah i know the port which you speak,
> 
> if you plugged in the usb in the wrong direction you may of damaged the aquaero
> 
> any pics of which side you are using ( one side of the port will have 22 sets of 4 pins, the other will have *1 set of 5 pins and 1set of 4 pins* the bold is the usb port, the side with the "extra" pin is the ground aka the black wires


The Aquaero works fine, but the USB just does not connect.

Currently not home, but as far as I can remember I have it plugged on the five pins, with black on the extra pin. The black wire is plugged in pin 1 on the Aquaero unit. But I will have to double check that. Could I have killed my Aquaero by having it connected wrong? (On a digital side of things) since I can control my pumps/fans just fine with the remote etc.


----------



## Mega Man

If you look at the aquaero. At the back there is a pin out. The 2 colored in squares are the black wires

The black wires should face the temp sensors


----------



## Willius

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> If you look at the aquaero. At the back there is a pin out. The 2 colored in squares are the black wires


Yeah I just checked it on some fotos on the Internet. I think I mixed up, having checked the foto I'm quite sure I've connected it correctly on the controller.

I Will double check the Aquaero side and USB header, and see what happens. Not being able to use the USB features kinda sucks, if it doesn't it feels like I payed a lot of money for a simple fan controller









So I hope its get going. So I can add a flow meter and other goodies later









Also, thanks for the help Mega Man, +Rep!


----------



## Mega Man

Anytime. Hopefully your aquaero is ok


----------



## Shoggy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> @Shoggy I think I found a bug.
> 
> When adj key sensitivity on the aquaero randomly the aquaero will start clicking like I am pushing a button and become unresponsive. One it did it with the enter button (when I was adj the enter button) and it moved the test icon like it was supposed to. The other 4 time it was with other buttons never at the same sensitivity (Even on the same button).
> 
> to fix i i have to remove power
> Hope this may help


This is not a bug. Ghost typing comes from disturbances in the capacitive field that each button represents. It is often caused by the environment around the device. The power source of the device and also its ground play an important role here since it can heavily alter the measurements.

When the touch controller chips is constantly "bombed" with inputs it can crash at some pojnt and will not respond anymore till you restart the device. I recommend to lower the sensitivity through the software or use the remote control. As long as the sensitivity is too high you could always run into the problem that while changing it directly on the device it will turn mad


----------



## vietrice89

Does aquasuite lagging for anyone else? When i click into it my mouse just starts skipping around.


----------



## galletabah

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vietrice89*
> 
> Does aquasuite lagging for anyone else? When i click into it my mouse just starts skipping around.


yes, with win10 pro


----------



## Mega Man

No issues here on win 10


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NeeqOne*
> 
> I don't know if my Aqua Computer Flow Sensor MPS 400 is faulty or I am doing something wrong. It reads 0gals/m when the USB pump is below 60%. Even at 100%, the flow sensor only reads 0.9gals/m. Any help on how to fix this will be very much appreciated.


not sure you "solved" this but be aware that when the flow drops below something around 0.35 GPM (not exact figure but roughly at this point) the MPS 400 will not return a flow value. So, it is quite possible that is what is happening.

Also play with the measurement unit too and try a custom curve. I remember that in the old days there was something off in the mps 400 cross talk with aquaero in regard to measurement unit that was only solved by using a custom curve. It is described there in the community thread where you got the custom 3/8 x 5/8 custom curve fast fate did for me.


----------



## Willius

Ok so i checked both ends of the cable, both correctly plugged in. But now i get
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> Anytime. Hopefully your aquaero is ok


It lives!









Aquasuite works like a charm now! Had it the wrong way round on the Mobo and corrupted the driver with it. Repositioned the USB, removed the driver. Plugged it in and it worked! Thanks once again.


----------



## NeeqOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> not sure you "solved" this but be aware that when the flow drops below something around 0.35 GPM (not exact figure but roughly at this point) the MPS 400 will not return a flow value. So, it is quite possible that is what is happening.
> 
> Also play with the measurement unit too and try a custom curve. I remember that in the old days there was something off in the mps 400 cross talk with aquaero in regard to measurement unit that was only solved by using a custom curve. It is described there in the community thread where you got the custom 3/8 x 5/8 custom curve fast fate did for me.


Thanks for your suggestion. I will go through that thread again and learn how to create the custom curve. I have tried changing the measurement units but the issue still persist.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NeeqOne*
> 
> Thanks for your suggestion. I will go through that thread again and learn how to create the custom curve. I have tried changing the measurement units but the issue still persist.


you don't need to create the curve. Import some of the ones there and see if changes anything. But the most important thing is that 0.9 GPM at full 100% pump power does not seem wrong to me and might as well be the correct flow rate of your loop (all depends on the components). If you drop the pump power and flow is below ~0.3ish GPM then that explains the 0 flow reading in the mps 400.


----------



## NeeqOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> you don't need to create the curve. Import some of the ones there and see if changes anything. But the most important thing is that 0.9 GPM at full 100% pump power does not seem wrong to me and might as well be the correct flow rate of your loop (all depends on the components). If you drop the pump power and flow is below ~0.3ish GPM then that explains the 0 flow reading in the mps 400.


I will drain the loop and take the flow sensor out to do some testing. I will connect it directly to the reservoir and pump combo and see how it reads.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NeeqOne*
> 
> I will drain the loop and take the flow sensor out to do some testing. I will connect it directly to the reservoir and pump combo and see how it reads.


ok, put it on the out flow of the pump and not on in, otherwise the suck in flow of the pump can mess with the mps 400.


----------



## Shoggy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vietrice89*
> 
> Does aquasuite lagging for anyone else? When i click into it my mouse just starts skipping around.


It is a known NVIDIA driver bug. Seems to have something to do with their G-SYNC stuff which can cause problem with the MS .NET Framework. Some customers reported changing to a different driver version fixed the issue while others played around with the driver settings (disable G-SYNC for Window-Mode).


----------



## NeeqOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> you don't need to create the curve. Import some of the ones there and see if changes anything. But the most important thing is that 0.9 GPM at full 100% pump power does not seem wrong to me and might as well be the correct flow rate of your loop (all depends on the components). If you drop the pump power and flow is below ~0.3ish GPM then that explains the 0 flow reading in the mps 400.


I think the Flow sensor is faulty. I took it out of the loop and connected it as shown below. It is still reading 1gal/min with the pump at 100%.


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Willius*
> 
> Ok so i checked both ends of the cable, both correctly plugged in. But now i get
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> Anytime. Hopefully your aquaero is ok
> 
> 
> 
> It lives!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Aquasuite works like a charm now! Had it the wrong way round on the Mobo and corrupted the driver with it. Repositioned the USB, removed the driver. Plugged it in and it worked! Thanks once again.
Click to expand...

I am glad you figured out the problem
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *NeeqOne*
> 
> Thanks for your suggestion. I will go through that thread again and learn how to create the custom curve. I have tried changing the measurement units but the issue still persist.
> 
> 
> 
> you don't need to create the curve. Import some of the ones there and see if changes anything. But the most important thing is that 0.9 GPM at full 100% pump power does not seem wrong to me and might as well be the correct flow rate of your loop (all depends on the components). If you drop the pump power and flow is below ~0.3ish GPM then that explains the 0 flow reading in the mps 400.
Click to expand...

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NeeqOne*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> you don't need to create the curve. Import some of the ones there and see if changes anything. But the most important thing is that 0.9 GPM at full 100% pump power does not seem wrong to me and might as well be the correct flow rate of your loop (all depends on the components). If you drop the pump power and flow is below ~0.3ish GPM then that explains the 0 flow reading in the mps 400.
> 
> 
> 
> I think the Flow sensor is faulty. I took it out of the loop and connected it as shown below. It is still reading 1gal/min with the pump at 100%.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
Click to expand...

I think I know the problem.

That looks about right. (1gp*m* = 227lp*h* converted by engineering toolbox )

I think one prob we are running into is you are using PER MINUTE not per Hour.


----------



## NeeqOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> I am glad you figured out the problem
> 
> I think I know the problem.
> 
> That looks about right. (1gp*m* = 227lp*h* converted by engineering toolbox )
> 
> I think one prob we are running into is you are using PER MINUTE not per Hour.


I am a bit lost here, but shouldn't the flow sensor be reading higher than 1gal/min with no component in the loop and pump at 100%? Is there any material or post I can refer to? Thanks


----------



## Mega Man

maybe, i just got home, and i double checked - i always read the chart in /hour for w.e. reason ( EBKAC ! )

may be 100% wrong, sorry :/

have you zeroed the MPS ?


----------



## NeeqOne

Yes. I did. That was the first thing I did before powering the pump.


----------



## Mega Man

:/ i dunno sorry ;/


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NeeqOne*
> 
> I think the Flow sensor is faulty. I took it out of the loop and connected it as shown below. It is still reading 1gal/min with the pump at 100%.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


in your pic the unscaled value is 33 and flow is at 0.4 GPM. When at 1 GPM how much is the unscaled value (below the graph)?

btw at 38 unscaled I am reading around 0.4 GPM too. If your unscaled value is going around 300 for 1 GPM seems about right (mine read 1.2 GPM at 300 unscaled value so I guess you will get a 250-300ish for the 1 GPM figure).


----------



## NeeqOne

It fluctuates between 147 and 152.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NeeqOne*
> 
> It fluctuates between 147 and 152.


just matched your 150 unscaled here for comparison and I read 0.88 GPM. Seems about right mate. Now why that simple loop is giving you this tops reading is beyond me...


----------



## Costas

Only other thing that I can think of is that one of the small orifices which connects to the actual pressure sensor itself is blocked with some debris.

You would need to pull the unit apart to check this. Its reasonable easy to do... Do a search for MPS400 on Google and I recall one of the reviews shows one being disassembled by fast_fate - Xtremerigs review IIRC.


----------



## NeeqOne

I will do as you have suggested. I read that review and saw the unit being dismantled. Also, I will contact Aquacomputer support.


----------



## vietrice89

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> It is a known NVIDIA driver bug. Seems to have something to do with their G-SYNC stuff which can cause problem with the MS .NET Framework. Some customers reported changing to a different driver version fixed the issue while others played around with the driver settings (disable G-SYNC for Window-Mode).


Do you happen to have info on the driver version used or the driver settings that need to be changed?


----------



## Shoggy

http://nvidia.custhelp.com/app/answers/detail/a_id/3832/~/geforce-hotfix-driver-361.60 (pretty old now)

No idea about the settings. The already mentioned window-mode seems to play a role.


----------



## NeeqOne

@Shoogy can you please check your PM and help to resolve the issue with my flow sensor. I have sent a mail to support but no reply yet.


----------



## Costas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NeeqOne*
> 
> @Shoogy can you please check your PM and help to resolve the issue with my flow sensor. I have sent a mail to support but no reply yet.


Give them some time to respond...









I recently had an issue with an Aquacomputer product and Shoggy (plus their support system) took care of it....









So just be a little patient.


----------



## inoran81

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *inoran81*
> 
> Hi guys... Since we are sort of in this topic of mps pressure sensor... Can I ask which port should I place the pressure equalisation membrane G1/4 on my aquatube on the bay mount since there ain't no top port available to work as the fill level?
> 
> Alternative I was thinking of using a 90d extender fitting to connect to the 'highest' port and attach the pressure equalisation membrane - but I was afraid of the coolant over flowing out via that - anyone done this config before?


Sorry guys... Need to bump this - not sure if anyone saw my enquiry. Thanks in advance...


----------



## InfoSeeker

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *inoran81*
> 
> Sorry guys... Need to bump this - not sure if anyone saw my enquiry. Thanks in advance...


The pressure equalization membrane should be at the top of the reservoir so it will remain dry and allow air to pass for inner/outer pressure equalization.
The best way, for a horizontally mounted aquatube, is to rotate the reservoir so the two "side" ports face up and connect the membrane to one of those ports.


----------



## Newtocooling

I have a quick question about using my Aquaero 6XT with these fans Noctua A14 PWM, and a Swiftech or Silverstone PWM splitter. These splitters use Sata PSU power to power the fans, and a pwm signal cable that will go to the Aquaero. My question is will I still be able to control RPM fan speed with Aquasuite Curve Controllers if the PSU is now powering the fans?


----------



## GTXJackBauer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Newtocooling*
> 
> I have a quick question about using my Aquaero 6XT with these fans Noctua A14 PWM, and a Swiftech or Silverstone PWM splitter. These splitters use Sata PSU power to power the fans, and a pwm signal cable that will go to the Aquaero. My question is will I still be able to control RPM fan speed with Aquasuite Curve Controllers if the PSU is now powering the fans?


Yes because the curve will be based on the PWM signal and not on voltage control which you would get with 3-pin components.

Just make sure to switch to PWM for any PWM device used by the AQ 6.


----------



## Newtocooling

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GTXJackBauer*
> 
> Yes because the curve will be based on the PWM signal and not on voltage control which you would get with 3-pin components.
> 
> Just make sure to switch to PWM for any PWM device used by the AQ 6.


Thanks that makes me feel better about my fan upgrade.


----------



## GTXJackBauer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Newtocooling*
> 
> Thanks that makes me feel better about my fan upgrade.










Great thing about this controller is, it's compatible with either PWM or voltage controlled.


----------



## inoran81

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *InfoSeeker*
> 
> The pressure equalization membrane should be at the top of the reservoir so it will remain dry and allow air to pass for inner/outer pressure equalization.
> The best way, for a horizontally mounted aquatube, is to rotate the reservoir so the two "side" ports face up and connect the membrane to one of those ports.


Thanks for your reply. However if u mount the aquatube on the bay, there is actually a groove that if I would to align it, the ports at the side wouldn't all line up on top (even the ports at the end didn't line up as well). Thus I'm wondering if I use a 90deg male to female fitting and extend the pressure equalisation membrane higher than the aquatube, will that do the trick?


----------



## apw63

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *InfoSeeker*
> 
> The pressure equalization membrane should be at the top of the reservoir so it will remain dry and allow air to pass for inner/outer pressure equalization.
> The best way, for a horizontally mounted aquatube, is to rotate the reservoir so the two "side" ports face up and connect the membrane to one of those ports.


I do not believe any air passed in and out of the membrane. The membrane expanse and contracts to maintain the equal pressure on both sides of the level indicator mps.


----------



## InfoSeeker

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *inoran81*
> 
> Thanks for your reply. However if u mount the aquatube on the bay, there is actually a groove that if I would to align it, the ports at the side wouldn't all line up on top (even the ports at the end didn't line up as well). Thus I'm wondering if I use a 90deg male to female fitting and extend the pressure equalisation membrane higher than the aquatube, will that do the trick?


I have an aquatube, but I am not mounting it "horizontally" and do not have the aquabay AT (installation bay for aquatube) Rev. 1.5, so I am not aware of the "groove" you mention.

If I run the German product description through Google translate, the bottom paragraph says...
"Note: when using a tubemeter is the direct mounting of aquatube so that a shaft or place only aquatube with G1 / 8 "thread possible With G1 / 4." Variants must be rotated due to the necessary adapter piece, below the aquabay available have to be. The recess of the aqua tubes for easier removal of the cover is then covered in the case of the aquabay bezel."

Which tends to make me believe there is the possibility to rotate the device in the mount.

If you cannot rotate the device, one option would be to drill & tap a G1/4 port on the top side.

You could use a 90 & turn up as you mentioned, but then the water level would need to stay below the point of entry of the side port, otherwise the weight of the water column in the fitting would effect the pressure in the reservoir.

For my installation I plan to implement a 90 as you proposed, but I am mounting it vertically and will keep the water level below the port.


----------



## InfoSeeker

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *apw63*
> 
> I do not believe any air passed in and out of the membrane. The membrane expanse and contracts to maintain the equal pressure on both sides of the level indicator mps.


Quoting from a Shoggy thread that introduced the device...

"*mps - also reads the fill level and pressure*
Many of your use tubes or other larger reservoirs and our tubemeter can not be used with them or only with some downsides. The new mps controller can not only read the flow, with another housing it is also able to measure the fill level or the pressure.

There are two different ways how to connect this sensor to a reservoir.

1: You connect two tubes to the sensor. The first goes into one of the lower threads on your reservoir and the second must be connected on a thread at the top (for example a filling cap).

2: You connect only one tube to the sensor and connect it to a thread on the bottom of the reservoir like in the first method. The counterpart will be another new product: a pressure equalization membrane. It will be installed at the top of the reservoir. _*The membrane allows gases to pass and thereby continuously equalizes the internal pressure*_ of the water cooling loop and the ambient pressure. This way the sensor can also detect the correct fill level."

If memory serves, I also saw a comment by Shoggy stating that getting the membrane wet causes it to cease function... air will not pass until it dries.

EDIT: I should have just looked at the product description:
"Pressure equalisation membrane to be installed in a top port of a reservoir. _*The membrane allows gases to pass and thereby continously equalizes the internal pressure*_ of the water cooling loop and the ambient pressure. The membrane has to be installed in direct contact to the air bubble inside the reservoir!"


----------



## NeeqOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Costas*
> 
> Give them some time to respond...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I recently had an issue with an Aquacomputer product and Shoggy (plus their support system) took care of it....
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So just be a little patient.


Shoggy has replied and given me the steps to follow to calibrate the flow sensor. I will do that and see how it goes. In calibrating your sensor, what did you use as a reference for measuring the flow rate at the different unscaled values?


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NeeqOne*
> 
> Shoggy has replied and given me the steps to follow to calibrate the flow sensor. I will do that and see how it goes. In calibrating your sensor, what did you use as a reference for measuring the flow rate at the different unscaled values?


Costas and others have something like this:



that allow to create custom curves for the mps 400.

edit - LOL I beat you fast


----------



## fast_fate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NeeqOne*
> 
> Shoggy has replied and given me the steps to follow to calibrate the flow sensor. I will do that and see how it goes. In calibrating your sensor, what did you use as a reference for measuring the flow rate at the different unscaled values?


A reliable rotometer (flow meter) is required to perform the calibration.
usable scale up to 3.5 GPM is what I normally have connected for testing, although 0 - 2.0 GPM is probably best for the flow meters.


----------



## NeeqOne

I found this on ebay. Is it reliable?


----------



## fast_fate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NeeqOne*
> 
> I found this on ebay. Is it reliable?


It would be better to find one with 1/4" inlet outlet ports, rather than have to adapt down from the 1/2" which the linked meters have.

For the purpose of calibrating our flow meters, a generic branded rotometer is perfectly fine


----------



## NeeqOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fast_fate*
> 
> It would be better to find one with 1/4" inlet outlet ports, rather than have to adapt down from the 1/2" which the linked meters have.
> 
> For the purpose of calibrating our flow meters, a generic branded rotometer is perfectly fine


Can you please recommend one? Thanks


----------



## fast_fate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NeeqOne*
> 
> Can you please recommend one? Thanks


Here's one from the Dwyer Visi-Float range which I think would be perfect for you









VFB-85-SSV


----------



## NeeqOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fast_fate*
> 
> Here's one from the Dwyer Visi-Float range which I think would be perfect for you
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> VFB-85-SSV


+Rep. Thanks for the help.


----------



## Costas

You can also grab some relatively cheap models off ebay.

Just for something different - I actually mounted one into my PC...









The model I utilised was a 'LZT' brand 0 - 2 GPM unit - this would me more than adequate for the job. - I purchased it off ebay - off one of the many Chinese re-sellers. Simply search for 2GPM flow meter etc... It comes with 1/4" ports so all you need to do is to screw in your required fitting and away you go.

Comparing it against one of my larger King Instrument flow meters shows that it is quite accurate and more than good enough for your requirement.



Calibrating MPS flowmeters...


----------



## NeeqOne

I am jealous of your test setup.









Can you share the particular model or link? Thanks


----------



## fast_fate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NeeqOne*
> 
> I am jealous of your test setup.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Can you share the particular model or link? Thanks


Costa's flow meter in the test set-up picture is a King Instruments 7530-2-1-1-7C02


----------



## apw63

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *InfoSeeker*
> 
> Quoting from a Shoggy thread that introduced the device...
> 
> "*mps - also reads the fill level and pressure*
> Many of your use tubes or other larger reservoirs and our tubemeter can not be used with them or only with some downsides. The new mps controller can not only read the flow, with another housing it is also able to measure the fill level or the pressure.
> 
> There are two different ways how to connect this sensor to a reservoir.
> 
> 1: You connect two tubes to the sensor. The first goes into one of the lower threads on your reservoir and the second must be connected on a thread at the top (for example a filling cap).
> 
> 2: You connect only one tube to the sensor and connect it to a thread on the bottom of the reservoir like in the first method. The counterpart will be another new product: a pressure equalization membrane. It will be installed at the top of the reservoir. _*The membrane allows gases to pass and thereby continuously equalizes the internal pressure*_ of the water cooling loop and the ambient pressure. This way the sensor can also detect the correct fill level."
> 
> If memory serves, I also saw a comment by Shoggy stating that getting the membrane wet causes it to cease function... air will not pass until it dries.
> 
> EDIT: I should have just looked at the product description:
> "Pressure equalisation membrane to be installed in a top port of a reservoir. _*The membrane allows gases to pass and thereby continously equalizes the internal pressure*_ of the water cooling loop and the ambient pressure. The membrane has to be installed in direct contact to the air bubble inside the reservoir!"






Thank you for refreshing my memory


----------



## NeeqOne

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fast_fate*
> 
> Costs flow meter in the test set-up picture is a King Instruments 7530-2-1-1-7C02






Thanks.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fast_fate*
> 
> Here's one from the Dwyer Visi-Float range which I think would be perfect for you
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> VFB-85-SSV


this one comes with g 1/4 fast?


----------



## Costas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> this one comes with g 1/4 fast?


I know for certain that these LZT branded units do come with 1/2" external and 1/4" internally threaded ports.

They are available with/without a flow adjustment valve.


----------



## fast_fate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> this one comes with g 1/4 fast?


Hey Gabz,

Yes - If specifications page is to be trusted









"_*VFB ranges 85 and 86 have 1/4" NPT back connections*_ or 3/8" NPT end connections."


----------



## InfoSeeker

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> this one comes with g 1/4 fast?


None of the rotameters will have a G1/4 port, but Koolance comes to the rescue with a series of thread adapters that adapt from 1/8, 1/4 or 3/8 NPT to G1/4.


----------



## fast_fate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *InfoSeeker*
> 
> None of the rotameters will have a G1/4 port, but Koolance comes to the rescue with a series of thread adapters that adapt from 1/8, 1/4 or 3/8 NPT to G1/4.


G 1/4 fittings mate fine with a 1/4" NPT, I have 2 x King Instruments meters and at least one other which I have done so on without issue.


----------



## NeeqOne

Anyone with Aquaero 6 LCD they want to get rid of? I am interested.


----------



## InfoSeeker

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fast_fate*
> 
> G 1/4 fittings mate fine with a 1/4" NPT, I have 2 x King Instruments meters and at least one other which I have done so on without issue.


Interesting that... I never tried... guess that reveals my anal quality









But it makes sense, since the G1/4 parallel thread is only 5mm deep, there is not much opportunity for the 1/4 NPT taper to cause a problem, as long as the o-ring seats on the NPT shoulder.


----------



## mechanic2

Infoseeker,
I found a company here in the States that sells G1/4 taps and the drill bit. The drill bit is 11.2 mm which is .0875 inches larger than a 7/16 drill bit.
Thanks,
rich!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *InfoSeeker*
> 
> Interesting that... I never tried... guess that reveals my anal quality
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But it makes sense, since the G1/4 parallel thread is only 5mm deep, there is not much opportunity for the 1/4 NPT taper to cause a problem, as long as the o-ring seats on the NPT shoulder.


----------



## Mega Man

who here owns/ uses a usb d5 ?

how do you get the "flow" to work ?

apparently they have a "flow" value ?


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> who here owns/ uses a usb d5 ?
> 
> how do you get the "flow" to work ?
> 
> apparently they have a "flow" value ?


mine showed when ever it was hooked up with the USB cant remember about the aquabus for sure!!


----------



## NeeqOne

I am using the D5 USB and I don't get any flow value from it.


----------



## fast_fate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *InfoSeeker*
> 
> Interesting that... I never tried... guess that reveals my anal quality
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But it makes sense, since the G1/4 parallel thread is only 5mm deep, there is not much opportunity for the 1/4 NPT taper to cause a problem, as long as the o-ring seats on the NPT shoulder.


good reasoning









There's likely more chance of the adapter fitting leaking if reducing down from 3/8" or 1/2" ports








I recall the Koolance adapters getting some nasty feedback - possible in the How to correctly leak test your loop......101 thread.
A wrap or 2 of Teflon tape on 50 cent plastic fittings from reticulation shop worked perfect for me when needed to reduce down on the larger meters.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fast_fate*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *InfoSeeker*
> 
> Interesting that... I never tried... guess that reveals my anal quality
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But it makes sense, since the G1/4 parallel thread is only 5mm deep, there is not much opportunity for the 1/4 NPT taper to cause a problem, as long as the o-ring seats on the NPT shoulder.
> 
> 
> 
> good reasoning
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There's likely more chance of the adapter fitting leaking if reducing down from 3/8" or 1/2" ports
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I recall the Koolance adapters getting some nasty feedback - possible in the How to correctly leak test your loop......101 thread.
> A wrap or 2 of Teflon tape on 50 cent plastic fittings from reticulation shop worked perfect for me when needed to reduce down on the larger meters.
Click to expand...

The Koolance G1/4 to 1/4 NPT adapters were notoriously horse patootie . . . .

The issue was that the NPT female thread was fairly short, while its taper diameters were more matched to the larger portion of a long 1/4 NPT tapered male . . . .

Hence the NPT side bottomed out in the fitting before the threads engaged enough to reliably seal.

Took about 2 rolls, (not 2 turns) of Teflon tape to make them almost seal . . .

Or you could cut the first 2 threads off the NPT male so it fit like it went in farther.

Darlene


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> The Koolance G1/4 to 1/4 NPT adapters were notoriously horse patootie . . . .
> 
> The issue was that the NPT female thread was fairly short, while its taper diameters were more matched to the larger portion of a long 1/4 NPT tapered male . . . .
> 
> Hence the NPT side bottomed out in the fitting before the threads engaged enough to reliably seal.
> 
> Took about 2 rolls, (not 2 turns) of Teflon tape to make them almost seal . . .
> 
> Or you could cut the first 2 threads off the NPT male so it fit like it went in farther.
> 
> Darlene


Nooooo! They are great:


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> The Koolance G1/4 to 1/4 NPT adapters were notoriously horse patootie . . . .
> 
> The issue was that the NPT female thread was fairly short, while its taper diameters were more matched to the larger portion of a long 1/4 NPT tapered male . . . .
> 
> Hence the NPT side bottomed out in the fitting before the threads engaged enough to reliably seal.
> 
> Took about 2 rolls, (not 2 turns) of Teflon tape to make them almost seal . . .
> 
> Or you could cut the first 2 threads off the NPT male so it fit like it went in farther.
> 
> Darlene
> 
> 
> 
> Nooooo! They are great:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
Click to expand...

I see you spent the extra $$ for the deluxe model . . .









D.


----------



## InfoSeeker

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> The Koolance G1/4 to 1/4 NPT adapters were notoriously horse patootie . . . .
> 
> The issue was that the NPT female thread was fairly short, while its taper diameters were more matched to the larger portion of a long 1/4 NPT tapered male . . . .
> 
> Hence the NPT side bottomed out in the fitting before the threads engaged enough to reliably seal.
> 
> Took about 2 rolls, (not 2 turns) of Teflon tape to make them almost seal . . .
> 
> Or you could cut the first 2 threads off the NPT male so it fit like it went in farther.
> 
> Darlene


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Nooooo! They are great:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> I see you spent the extra $$ for the deluxe model . . .
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> D.


mhmmm... I need an NPT 3/8 Male to G 1/4 Female in stainless, and all I found is the Koolance Threading Adapter, NPT 3/8 Male to G 1/4 Female, Stainless Steel.
Hopefully it circumvents the two problems exposed above... the NPT part is male, which should make insufficient female depth a non-issue, and being stainless steel, hopefully won't twist-apart as did the nickel plated brass version pictured.

I'll let you know, and thanks to all for the information... I was considering the nickel plated brass version.


----------



## jvillaveces

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> who here owns/ uses a usb d5 ?
> 
> how do you get the "flow" to work ?
> 
> apparently they have a "flow" value ?


I have two of them running right now. The alarm configuration page shows a lot of fields with no values, flow being one of them. It also shows inner and outer temp sensors, pressure, and fill level. It looks like it's a common page for all mps devices, with each device displaying only the data pertinent to it and leaving the other fields blank. Look:


----------



## Mega Man

so then the d5 is NOT designed to show flow ?


----------



## Costas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> so then the d5 is NOT designed to show flow ?


It has no inbuilt circuitry or mechanism to be able to measure flow.... so in short 'no" it can never actually measure flow.


----------



## mechanic2

Costa,
It has the programming to be able to estimate flow. It use the RPM of the pump to do so. Of course it isn't anywhere near as accurate as physical flow sensor.
Thanks,
rich!


----------



## fast_fate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mechanic2*
> 
> Costa,
> It has the programming to be able to estimate flow. It use the RPM of the pump to do so. Of course it isn't anywhere near as accurate as physical flow sensor.
> Thanks,
> rich!


Mind sharing how you do this ?

If I have the pump running at full power (Full RPM) in both the following scenarios will I have the same flow rate, of course not, we know that's a crazy question.

CPU Block and only one radiator
CPU block, 3 GPU Blocks, VRM, Chipset & RAM Blocks, 4 x Radiators ect ect
So I'm failing to see how RPM can even estimate the flow rate when pump RPM is the same for both loops.
Need a flow meter of some kind.

AQ D5 USB mounted on an EK Revo Top - have fun with the numbers








Watts on the 40% power looks to be beeped


----------



## NeeqOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mechanic2*
> 
> Costa,
> It has the programming to be able to estimate flow. It use the RPM of the pump to do so. Of course it isn't anywhere near as accurate as physical flow sensor.
> Thanks,
> rich!


What pump are you using? D5 USB?


----------



## mechanic2

NeeqOne and et al,
I am using the AC D-5 pump with USB and AquaBus. I have been told that it has programming that will give you a very rough estimate of the flow. I thought that it was based on RPM. Maybe it was that it is based on Voltage and RPM. If I am wrong in this and my ears weren't working correctly on that day, which is highly likely, then I will admit that I was wrong and take my lumps like a good boy. I know that I need a real flow sensor and I plan on getting one when the funds become available. One step at a time.
Thanks,
rich!


----------



## Costas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fast_fate*
> 
> Mind sharing how you do this ?


Yeh I'd like to know too....









Voltage and rpm won't work as other variables come into play as fast_fate has highlighted.


----------



## mechanic2

Costas and et al,
Do what? Without a quote or a reference to what you would like to know I don't what you are asking. Something like this: How do you do 'such and such'.? The 'such and such' is the reference. So what were you asking about? I am doing several different things at one time. I.E. I am multitasking.
Thanks,
rich!


----------



## mechanic2

Hello everyone,
I was wrong. The D-5 can not give a flow reading. My ears weren't working correctly on that day. I am going to have to get a real flow sensor. I am sorry!








rich!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Costas*
> 
> Yeh I'd like to know too....
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Voltage and rpm won't work as other variables come into play as fast_fate has highlighted.


----------



## Costas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mechanic2*
> 
> Hello everyone,
> I was wrong. The D-5 can not give a flow reading. My ears weren't working correctly on that day. I am going to have to get a real flow sensor. I am sorry!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> rich!


No problem...









Just in case you are new to the scene here are two old but good links to sites that have some great info that you may find useful...:

http://skinneelabs.com/
https://martinsliquidlab.wordpress.com/

Also - another link to a more modern source re: testing and reviews of water cooling hardware: Apparently if you search closely on xtremerigs you will find fast_fate hiding somewhere under a rock or something....










http://www.xtremerigs.net/


----------



## mechanic2

Costa,
I went and looked at all of these sites. Very helpful. Especially the last site. I made the right choice of an AquaCool Monsta 240 radiator. I also learned that it performs best with a push-pull fan setup. So now I am going to go and move some fans around.
Thanks,
rich!

BTW: I received a bunch of RGB LEDs today. I am going to be down well into tomorrow. I'll let you know when I am back up and running. Also Sven hasn't gotten back to me about the USB and AB.
Thanks,
rich!


----------



## Costas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mechanic2*
> 
> Costa,
> I went and looked at all of these sites. Very helpful. Especially the last site. I made the right choice of an AquaCool Monsta 240 radiator. I also learned that it performs best with a push-pull fan setup. So now I am going to go and move some fans around.
> Thanks,
> rich!


No problem - We are all here to help where we can...


----------



## mechanic2

Costas,
Well I removed the two 120 mm fans that were being used to push air into the case. I installed these fans on the inside of my radiator in a push-pull configuration. The radiator temp dropped by 2 degrees F. The fans are only turning at a little over 800 RPM. I put one of the 200 mm fans in place of the 120 mm fans. One of the to do things is to buy more fans. Ah, so much to do. So little money.
Thanks,
rich!

P.S. Here are some more pictures.

These first four pictures are different views of the liquid cooling components while the system is running.





In the next five pictures I am working on shortening and reinstalling the wiring going to the control panel. I shortened the Front Panel Audio wires and the wiring going to the Reset-Power Buttons and the Power On Light and HDD Activity Light. I left the USB 3 cables alone.






This is a different view of the cooling lines.


The last three pictures are shots of Stripes..




Thanks,
rich!

BTW: I received a bunch of RGB LEDs today. I am going to be down well into tomorrow. I'll let you know when I am back up and running.
Thanks,
rich!

Hello all,
What an adventure that I have had. The LEDs work. I miss placed one of the o-rings for my reservoir. I could not find it anywhere. So I decided to remove the CPU liquid blocks and reinstall the air coolers. I picked most everything up and I was going to quit until I could get another o-ring. I was just about to put the covers on. I reached for the top cover and the o-ring was laying there. It was laying right in front of where I store the covers. I went ahead and booted the system up with the air coolers on. I wanted to check my e-mail and see was what was going on. I am going to pull the system down so that I can hook the liquid cooling system back up. I probably won't be back up until late tomorrow.
Here are three more pictures of what I did get done. I built and install some more wiring. Except for sleeving I believe that I now have almost all the wiring in place.
Thanks,
rich!

These two pictures are of the RGB LED installation.



This picture shows the wiring going to my AE6.


rich!


----------



## ForNever

The chiller I've had for a few years has been great, but reaches saturation around 4.7 ghz @ 1.3 volts on current CPU, which means I was limited overclocking wise. I installed a second peltier chiller in series with the one I already have. Wired the pelts to a 30 amp automotive relay, and used the AQ6 low power relay to control it. Now when chilled water temps go over 20C the stage 2 chiller kicks on and keeps temps in line. I still need to create a fan profile to be loaded when stage 2 is activated, but in preliminary testing last night it did awesome, and I was SO HAPPY after a week of work and a PC torn to pieces. It was well worth it.

This damn thing (Aquaero 6) is INCREDIBLE, and completely worth every penny. I can't believe all the crazy mods you can do with it.

Unfortunately another 25 lb. custom copper heat exchanger has now made it impossible for me to move my PC by my self though. PC has to weigh somewhere around 150 lbs now =/

At some point, when I'm really bored, I'll redo all the loops/wiring so it's cleaner. I was in far too big of a hurry to test it this time and it's a complete mess lol.

Tried uploading some pics, but it just keeps failing. I'll try again when I get home tho. Anyway, it was a fun project. LOVE my AQ6.


Relay Testing


Heat exchanger/Pelt assembly




Leak test of stage 2 chiller good


Stage 2 installed on the right (just baaaaarely enough room). Hiding these ugly monstrosities in the empty 5.25 bays hehe.


First fire up and all seems well. Stage 2 isn't set to activate until chilled water temps reach 68F

Start up p95 small FFT's, give it a few minutes aaaaaand....


Boom.


Less than a minute later we are in comfortable temp territory once again ;D



Yeah, yeah, I know. I need to clean this tubing/cable mess up badly lol. Three loops, running out of room!


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ForNever*
> 
> The chiller I've had for a few years has been great, but reaches saturation around 4.7 ghz @ 1.3 volts on current CPU, which means I was limited overclocking wise. I installed a second peltier chiller in series with the one I already have. Wired the pelts to a 30 amp automotive relay, and used the AQ6 low power relay to control it. Now when chilled water temps go over 20C the stage 2 chiller kicks on and keeps temps in line. I still need to create a fan profile to be loaded when stage 2 is activated, but in preliminary testing last night it did awesome, and I was SO HAPPY after a week of work and a PC torn to pieces. It was well worth it.
> 
> This damn thing (Aquaero 6) is INCREDIBLE, and completely worth every penny. I can't believe all the crazy mods you can do with it.
> 
> Unfortunately another 25 lb. custom copper heat exchanger has now made it impossible for me to move my PC by my self though. PC has to weigh somewhere around 150 lbs now =/
> 
> At some point, when I'm really bored, I'll redo all the loops/wiring so it's cleaner. I was in far too big of a hurry to test it this time and it's a complete mess lol.
> 
> Tried uploading some pics, but it just keeps failing. I'll try again when I get home tho. Anyway, it was a fun project. LOVE my AQ6.


my tx10 weighs in at 100 lbs ish and it is all al( according to shipping, i really need to weigh it ) ! i know your pain !

the aq is amazing, but i wish they included more 12v outputs ( hell even the 5v vcc like the Arduino so we could use their Relay Board, ) i understand they needed to remove the aging tubemeter and multi switch. ( 12 v to use relays ! )

but come on. release the aq7 with that !~ and PLEASE release the irled, since the 5 they have had it ( the ir header) they have the proof of concept.

now they just need to sell it ! then take my monies !!!!!!


----------



## NeeqOne

@Costas, I just received my Rotameter and the fittings fit without any issue. Thanks


----------



## Newtocooling

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NeeqOne*
> 
> @Costas, I just received my Rotameter and the fittings fit without any issue. Thanks


Which model did you get? Do you have a link?


----------



## NeeqOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Newtocooling*
> 
> Which model did you get? Do you have a link?


Water Flow Measuring 1-7LPM 2.0 GPM Glass Panel Flowmeter


----------



## Costas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NeeqOne*
> 
> I just received my Rotameter and the fittings fit without any issue. Thanks


Awesome...should work well.


----------



## mechanic2

NeeqOne,
Cool meter and it is inexpensive. Looks like a good value to me.
Thanks,
rich!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NeeqOne*
> 
> @Costas, I just received my Rotameter and the fittings fit without any issue. Thanks


----------



## SteezyTN

Just wondering if anyone can help me. I know this thread is for the Aquaero, but do you mind helping me out with the Aquacomputer MPS 400?

I few month ago I ordered a Koolance FM18D, and it appears to be giving me inaccurate readings. Someone else is using a koolance flow meter, and their results aren't what they expected as well. Has anyone ever used a koolance flow meter before and later switched to an Aquacomputer meter?

I previously had 3 pumps installed in my loop, and the max flow I could achieve was 1.21 GPM. This was with 4 radiators (560, 480, 360, 240). Now I only have two pumps, and only using the 560, 480, and 240 (I dropped the 360). My max flow according to the FM18D is only 0.98 GPM. This seems incredibly low for the fact of having 2 pumps.

I'm really interested into switching to the MPS 400 because apparently it's very accurate, and the fact that there aren't any moving parts. I completely regret the FM18D, because of two reasons; possible inaccuracy of flow, and the sound as if someone is shaking a hand bell.


----------



## Newtocooling

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteezyTN*
> 
> Just wondering if anyone can help me. I know this thread is for the Aquaero, but do you mind helping me out with the Aquacomputer MPS 400?
> 
> I few month ago I ordered a Koolance FM18D, and it appears to be giving me inaccurate readings. Someone else is using a koolance flow meter, and their results aren't what they expected as well. Has anyone ever used a koolance flow meter before and later switched to an Aquacomputer meter?
> 
> I previously had 3 pumps installed in my loop, and the max flow I could achieve was 1.21 GPM. This was with 4 radiators (560, 480, 360, 240). Now I only have two pumps, and only using the 560, 480, and 240 (I dropped the 360). My max flow according to the FM18D is only 0.98 GPM. This seems incredibly low for the fact of having 2 pumps.
> 
> I'm really interested into switching to the MPS 400 because apparently it's very accurate, and the fact that there aren't any moving parts. I completely regret the FM18D, because of two reasons; possible inaccuracy of flow, and the sound as if someone is shaking a hand bell.


I used that flow meter to test parts for restriction outside my case, and it seemed fine. I was also using an Aquacomputer hi flow meter not the 400 for comparison and they both read the same numbers.I only use the koolance for testing outside my case because of the built in display. What CPU block are you using? The reason I ask is I upgraded mine to the heatkiller IV and the block is excellent but pretty restrictive. The channels get blocked up pretty easily. Even with lower flow the block performs awesome though!!


----------



## wa3pnt

I've had MPS400s in my last three builds. I have to say that they are temperamental, and unpredictable.

The one in this computer stopped indicating the flow about two weeks ago. No raw reading.

Today I turned the computer on, and it's working. Same relative temperature in the shop. Nothing changed or moved. ?????

I have both a Koolance and a AQ Flow sensor for the new build. I'll report my findings when I get to that point in the build.

RodeoGeorge


----------



## MR-e

Hi guys, back with some more questions! I'm trying to compartmentalize my rads/fans to control them from my AQ6. Is there a hub/splitter I can use to connect 6 pwm fans (2x 360 rads top s8s) and feed one pwm line to an open port on the AQ6? I'm looking for something that doesn't require a power source and use the AQ1 PWM header for power only. Is this possible?

Next question, I have 1x AQ USB D5, 1x MPS400 Flow Sensor, 1x AQ Temp Sensor and the AQ6 itself. How do I connect up all the parts? I think the AQ6 gets the USB connection directly to the mobo, and the Temp Sensor gets one of the 2pin temp channels. That leaves the D5 and MPS400 Flow Sensor, how do I rig those guys up? At work right now so I'm just posting to kill time while I try to mentally put together my rig









Thank you

Edit - Would this splitter be what I'm looking for? Also, how many eLoops (120mm PWM) can I connect to a single AQ6 Channel? I have the Passive Heatsink on it so it won't overload.


----------



## electro2u

That splitter is what a lot of us use. You will want to remove the rpm pin on the headers though, only leaving the rpm pin on the first fan header. That way you'll get a proper rpm reading instead of random numbers.

Theres a similar trick with USB and aquabus connections. You can use that same splitter for aquabus cables. There is a limit to the number of mps devices but all yours can be Daisy chained.

There's a nice USB splitter made by nzxt if you want to keep everything wired up so you can use all functions.


----------



## thekasafist

Hi All,
I just wanted to ask just to be certain. Has anyone confirmed if this Aquacomputer D5 Pump Mechanics w/ USB and Aquabus Interface Model: AQ-41093 works with this Aquacomputer Aquaero 6 XT Blue Model: AQ-53206? If it does not could someone please share the appropriate model number for the Aquacomputer D5 Pump w/ USB and Aquabus Interface that belongs to the Aquacomputer Aquaero 6 XT Blue Model: AQ-53206? There are so many models and versions of stuff out there and it's hard to trust the translation on the actual site too that I simply just want to be certain I get the right item. I would greatly appreciate it!


----------



## Newtocooling

I have a few questions regarding PWM fans. First can you have PWM fans on two channels, and voltage control fans on the other two channels on the 6XT? I just put my 8 Notua NF-A14 iPPC-3000 IP67 24V on a Swiftech 8W-PWM-SPL-ST 8 Way PWM Splitter-Sata and plugged them into Channel one on my 6XT and my Darkside GT's on the other 2 channels stopped reporting RPM.

One more thing I had all 8 Notua's going through the Swiftech 8W PWM splitter and at 100% power they were only showing 1661 RPM, they are supposed to be able to go up to 3000. Would that be because they are on a 12V sata rail? Or is the 8W in the Swiftech model mean they are only getting 8 watts on this splitter?


----------



## mechanic2

Kasa.
Here is the D-5 pump that I am using with my AE 6XT. AquaComputer #41093 D-5 pump core with AquaBus Interface. Now to the nitty gritty. All AC accessories with USB and/or AquaBus (AB) will work with either the AE5 or AE6 models.Other words if you have an AC AE 5 Pro, XT, or LT, or an AE 6 Pro or XT they work with all AC components. I hope that this helps.
Thanks,
rich!
PS. The polite thing to do is to write your posts as if you are writing a letter to someone.
Thanks,
rich!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thekasafist*
> 
> Hi All,
> I just wanted to ask just to be certain. Has anyone confirmed if this Aquacomputer D5 Pump Mechanics w/ USB and Aquabus Interface Model: AQ-41093 works with this Aquacomputer Aquaero 6 XT Blue Model: AQ-53206? If it does not could someone please share the appropriate model number for the Aquacomputer D5 Pump w/ USB and Aquabus Interface that belongs to the Aquacomputer Aquaero 6 XT Blue Model: AQ-53206? There are so many models and versions of stuff out there and it's hard to trust the translation on the actual site too that I simply just want to be certain I get the right item. I would greatly appreciate it!


----------



## mechanic2

Hello new,
The AE can run either PWM fans or Volyage controlled fans on any of the four fan channels. It can also run any combination of PWM fans and Voltage controlled on any of the channels. I don't know what happened to the RPM reporting on your GT fans. Someone else should be able to help you with that. Your Notua's are running at correct RPM on 12 Volts since they are rated at 300 RPM at 24 volts. I hope that this helps.
Thanks,
rich!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Newtocooling*
> 
> I have a few questions regarding PWM fans. First can you have PWM fans on two channels, and voltage control fans on the other two channels on the 6XT? I just put my 8 Notua NF-A14 iPPC-3000 IP67 24V on a Swiftech 8W-PWM-SPL-ST 8 Way PWM Splitter-Sata and plugged them into Channel one on my 6XT and my Darkside GT's on the other 2 channels stopped reporting RPM.
> 
> One more thing I had all 8 Notua's going through the Swiftech 8W PWM splitter and at 100% power they were only showing 1661 RPM, they are supposed to be able to go up to 3000. Would that be because they are on a 12V sata rail? Or is the 8W in the Swiftech model mean they are only getting 8 watts on this splitter?


----------



## MR-e

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> That splitter is what a lot of us use. You will want to remove the rpm pin on the headers though, only leaving the rpm pin on the first fan header. That way you'll get a proper rpm reading instead of random numbers.
> 
> Theres a similar trick with USB and aquabus connections. You can use that same splitter for aquabus cables. There is a limit to the number of mps devices but all yours can be Daisy chained.
> 
> There's a nice USB splitter made by nzxt if you want to keep everything wired up so you can use all functions.


Sorry, I'm not sure I understand. Do I get a pair of cutters and snip the RPM pin on these headers, and connect the 4 pin to an AQ6 PWM header?


----------



## jvillaveces

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thekasafist*
> 
> Hi All,
> I just wanted to ask just to be certain. Has anyone confirmed if this Aquacomputer D5 Pump Mechanics w/ USB and Aquabus Interface Model: AQ-41093 works with this Aquacomputer Aquaero 6 XT Blue Model: AQ-53206? If it does not could someone please share the appropriate model number for the Aquacomputer D5 Pump w/ USB and Aquabus Interface that belongs to the Aquacomputer Aquaero 6 XT Blue Model: AQ-53206? There are so many models and versions of stuff out there and it's hard to trust the translation on the actual site too that I simply just want to be certain I get the right item. I would greatly appreciate it!


Any Aquacomputer PWM D5 pump, including the one you mention, works with any AQ5 or AQ6 without modification.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Newtocooling*
> 
> I have a few questions regarding PWM fans. First can you have PWM fans on two channels, and voltage control fans on the other two channels on the 6XT? I just put my 8 Notua NF-A14 iPPC-3000 IP67 24V on a Swiftech 8W-PWM-SPL-ST 8 Way PWM Splitter-Sata and plugged them into Channel one on my 6XT and my Darkside GT's on the other 2 channels stopped reporting RPM.
> 
> One more thing I had all 8 Notua's going through the Swiftech 8W PWM splitter and at 100% power they were only showing 1661 RPM, they are supposed to be able to go up to 3000. Would that be because they are on a 12V sata rail? Or is the 8W in the Swiftech model mean they are only getting 8 watts on this splitter?


at 12v those Noctuas are rated at 1800 rpm. Since you have 8 on a splitter some drop is expected so 1661 rpm sound about right at 100% PWM from the Aquaero. In regard to the GTs channels check if they are set to voltage regulated channels or if for some reason they are not set to pwm. Also, do you have more than one GT per Aquaero channel? If so which splitter are you using?


----------



## mechanic2

Hello all,
Now it is my turn to ask for help. My LED controller is acting really weird. Sometimes it will turn the LEDs on and sometimes it won't At other times it turns on the wrong LEDs. I even tried switching the wires around to see if I hooked the LED to the wrong pin. But because the controller is acting erratically I can't really preform any testing. Could someone please help out?
Thanks,
rich!

Hello all,
I found the problem. Either my green and red LEDs have burned out or my connections have come loose. Drats, foiled again. I have it on rotating colors and the blue goes up and down. I tested the red and green ones and they are not working. They worked fine when I put it together. The blue LEDs do require more currrent. I thought that the AEs have current limiting resistors built in. Oh, well. I'm not going to take things apart right now. I will just live with one color until I need to take things apart to do other upgrades. When I install some more HDD blocks I'll do it then. It is going to be a while.
Thanks,
rich!


----------



## RDKing2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mechanic2*
> 
> Hello all,
> Now it is my turn to ask for help. My LED controller is acting really weird. Sometimes it will turn the LEDs on and sometimes it won't At other times it turns on the wrong LEDs. I even tried switching the wires around to see if I hooked the LED to the wrong pin. But because the controller is acting erratically I can't really preform any testing. Could someone please help out?
> Thanks,
> rich!


Are you using the farbwerk? The LED controller built into the AQ6 is meant to control only one led, not multiple LEDs or strips.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sexpot*
> 
> Hi guys, back with some more questions! I'm trying to compartmentalize my rads/fans to control them from my AQ6. Is there a hub/splitter I can use to connect 6 pwm fans (2x 360 rads top s8s) and feed one pwm line to an open port on the AQ6? I'm looking for something that doesn't require a power source and use the AQ1 PWM header for power only. Is this possible?
> 
> Next question, I have 1x AQ USB D5, 1x MPS400 Flow Sensor, 1x AQ Temp Sensor and the AQ6 itself. How do I connect up all the parts? I think the AQ6 gets the USB connection directly to the mobo, and the Temp Sensor gets one of the 2pin temp channels. That leaves the D5 and MPS400 Flow Sensor, how do I rig those guys up? At work right now so I'm just posting to kill time while I try to mentally put together my rig
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thank you
> 
> Edit - Would this splitter be what I'm looking for? Also, how many eLoops (120mm PWM) can I connect to a single AQ6 Channel? I have the Passive Heatsink on it so it won't overload.


just to clarify you can not use the PWM ( 2 pin ) port you HAVE to use a fan header !!!!
you can connect everything by making a cable, byuing a aquabus "y" cable or another one of the splitters you linked above ( the modmytoy splitters )
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sexpot*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> That splitter is what a lot of us use. You will want to remove the rpm pin on the headers though, only leaving the rpm pin on the first fan header. That way you'll get a proper rpm reading instead of random numbers.
> 
> Theres a similar trick with USB and aquabus connections. You can use that same splitter for aquabus cables. There is a limit to the number of mps devices but all yours can be Daisy chained.
> 
> There's a nice USB splitter made by nzxt if you want to keep everything wired up so you can use all functions.
> 
> 
> 
> Sorry, I'm not sure I understand. Do I get a pair of cutters and snip the RPM pin on these headers, and connect the 4 pin to an AQ6 PWM header?
Click to expand...

you can either cut all but 1 of the rpm pins or cut the traces ... your choice, you will need to use a DIFFERENT splitter for the aquabus not the same one you are controlling fans with ( just to clarify )
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mechanic2*
> 
> Hello all,
> Now it is my turn to ask for help. My LED controller is acting really weird. Sometimes it will turn the LEDs on and sometimes it won't At other times it turns on the wrong LEDs. I even tried switching the wires around to see if I hooked the LED to the wrong pin. But because the controller is acting erratically I can't really preform any testing. Could someone please help out?
> Thanks,
> rich!


which led controler, the one built into the aq or farbwerk ?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RDKing2*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *mechanic2*
> 
> Hello all,
> Now it is my turn to ask for help. My LED controller is acting really weird. Sometimes it will turn the LEDs on and sometimes it won't At other times it turns on the wrong LEDs. I even tried switching the wires around to see if I hooked the LED to the wrong pin. But because the controller is acting erratically I can't really preform any testing. Could someone please help out?
> Thanks,
> rich!
> 
> 
> 
> Are you using the farbwerk? The LED controller built into the AQ6 is meant to control only one led, not multiple LEDs or strips.
Click to expand...

and most are common anode iirc and the aq is common anode ( or the other way around )
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mechanic2*
> 
> Kasa.
> Here is the D-5 pump that I am using with my AE 6XT. AquaComputer #41093 D-5 pump core with AquaBus Interface. Now to the nitty gritty. All AC accessories with USB and/or AquaBus (AB) will work with either the AE5 or AE6 models.Other words if you have an AC AE 5 Pro, XT, or LT, or an AE 6 Pro or XT they work with all AC components. I hope that this helps.
> Thanks,
> rich!
> PS. The polite thing to do is to write your posts as if you are writing a letter to someone.
> Thanks,
> rich!
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *thekasafist*
> 
> Hi All,
> I just wanted to ask just to be certain. Has anyone confirmed if this Aquacomputer D5 Pump Mechanics w/ USB and Aquabus Interface Model: AQ-41093 works with this Aquacomputer Aquaero 6 XT Blue Model: AQ-53206? If it does not could someone please share the appropriate model number for the Aquacomputer D5 Pump w/ USB and Aquabus Interface that belongs to the Aquacomputer Aquaero 6 XT Blue Model: AQ-53206? There are so many models and versions of stuff out there and it's hard to trust the translation on the actual site too that I simply just want to be certain I get the right item. I would greatly appreciate it!
Click to expand...

with the exception of the tubemeter and multiswitch !


----------



## mechanic2

Hello all,
Here is what I use.

It is made by Phobya and the part number is 81136. ModMyMods carries them. You don't have to modify anything as the RPM signal is only connected through the first fan connector. It comes with a power connector that you connect to a hard drive power connector. This supplies 12 Volts to all of the fans. You can plug in PWM and Voltage Controlled fans. I have been using one for a couple of months now. I have had no issues with it. After using this one I brought a second one. I will be using that one with the Radiator Fans for my second loop.
Well when I put my system back together this time I found that I had very little flow to the CPU blocks. I had a pretty good idea about what was wrong. Fortunately I didn't have to drain any coolant to be able to remove the blocks. When I turn the system off the coolant in the lines going to the CPU blocks drains back into the reservoir. So I removed the blocks and opened them up. Sure enough the first block was almost completely plugged up with fuss. Here are a couple of pictures of the blocks and the fuss.


You can really see the blob of fuss that I took out of the block. It looks like the first block filtered the junk out and it never made it to the second block. There was a small amount in the second block but it was just a fraction of what was in the first block. This was my fault. What caused this is that I have been capturing the coolant when I have to drain system. No matter how careful I am there is always a small amount of stuff in the old coolant. I know, I know always use fresh coolant but sometimes you just don't have any choice.
I could use Automotive coolant but I wanted the clear coolant. I can buy a gallon of coolant for about $15.00. Volvo makes an outstanding coolant that is a beautiful blue color. This is the color that I plan on dyeing my coolant. This works out to 9 or 10 liters for less than $20 dollars when you consider the distilled water that will be needed to mix with it. The coolant that I am using is AC Double Protect Ultra Clear. It is about $50 for 5 liters. So you would have almost twice as much coolant for less than half the price.
Thanks,
rich!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sexpot*
> 
> Sorry, I'm not sure I understand. Do I get a pair of cutters and snip the RPM pin on these headers, and connect the 4 pin to an AQ6 PWM header?


----------



## mechanic2

Hello all,
The fans have to be connected to the fans headers on the AE 5 or 6. I haven't found a use for the 2 pin PWM connectors. The AE 5 only has one PW channel and the PAs don't have any PWM channels. Even though the PWM fans are being supplied by a separate 12 volt supply when you some type of adapter there is a limit to how many PWM fans that you can connect to any one AE 5 or 6 PWM Fan channel. Each PWM fan that you connect degrades the PWM signal a little bit. At a certain point the signal has degraded enough that the fans will not recognize the signal and you will lose control of them. Most PWM fans will default to full speed when the signal is bad or missing. There is no way to say how many fans that you can connect for different fans degrade the signal in different ways. If you have a scope you can monitor the wave form and be able to see when the signal is starting to go bad, You can also just hook up different numbers of fans and watch for when you lose control of them.

The Multiswitch will work on an AE 6 but it is no longer being produced.
Thanks,
rich!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> just to clarify you can not use the PWM ( 2 pin ) port you HAVE to use a fan header !!!!
> you can connect everything by making a cable, byuing a aquabus "y" cable or another one of the splitters you linked above ( the modmytoy splitters )
> 
> you can either cut all but 1 of the rpm pins or cut the traces ... your choice, you will need to use a DIFFERENT splitter for the aquabus not the same one you are controlling fans with ( just to clarify )
> which led controler, the one built into the aq or farbwerk ?
> and most are common anode iirc and the aq is common anode ( or the other way around )
> with the exception of the tubemeter and multiswitch !


----------



## RDKing2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mechanic2*
> 
> The Multiswitch will work on an AE 6 but it is no longer being produced.
> Thanks,
> rich!


It is no longer supported. For the last few firmware upgrades. The farbwerk now uses those addreses.

The two pin pwm can be used for LED.


----------



## mechanic2

Hello all I am using the one in the AE 6. Yes, I do know that the LEDs need to be common anode. If they weren't the LEDs wouldn't come on at all. Actually the AE 6 can control 3 different LEDs. The RGB connector has 4 pins. When looking at the back of the AE 6 the pins are numbered 4 to 1 going from left to right. The pin assignments also going from left to right are VCC LED 3, Ground, VCC LED 2, and VCC LED 1.
You will find the control area under the Controller tab under the Aquaero listing. You should be able to turn the different LEDs on and off from there. Also you should be able to vary the brightness and the mixing of the various LEDs. I Installed six LED s in my reservoir. 2 each of Blue, Red, and Green. The Greens are hooked up in parallel as are the other two colors. Sometimes I can turn the different colors on but at other times nothing will happen. I changed the color setting to blue and those LEDs came on. Now I can't do anything else with the settings. They aren't working right.
which led controler, the one built into the aq or farbwerk ?
and most are common anode iirc and the aq is common anode ( or the other way around )
with the exception of the tubemeter and multiswitch ![/quote]


----------



## mechanic2

Jvilla,
The D-5 USB pump like the one you have which is the same one that I have can be controlled from either the USB connection and/or the AquaBus connection. You do have to connect the pump with the USB first so that you can setup the pumps ID and whether or not it will use the AquaBus. If you are only going to use the USB connection you just plug that in and go. As soon as you plug the USB connection in the pump will show up in the main listing panel. That is all there is to it. You can run both busses at the same time and just change the priority to which ever buss that you want to use.
If you have more than one MPS device you will have to change the ID of one of them to be able to use both devices on the AquaBus at the same time. I have the pump which shows up as a MPS and I also have an AquaLis pump adapter and it also shows up as a MPS device. If I was only going to use the USB connection then I wouldn't have to do anything. I am using the AB so I had to change the address of one of the devices. I left the pump as ID 12 and I changed the AL to ID 13. I changed the name of my pump to 'CPU and Motherboard D-5 Pump ID-12' and I renamed the AL to 'CPU and Motherboard Aqualis ID-13'. This way I can tell at just a glance what is being used where and what the address is.
I am planning on adding another loop with another pump and Aqualis. They will use up ID- 14 and 15. If I decide to add another loop I will have to get an AE 5 LT to handle the other devices. MPS only have four IDs allocated to them. I wish that they had either allocated more IDs or they had given the pumps their on set of IDs. An AE 6 LT would also be nice. Oh well. You work through it. I hope that this helps.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jvillaveces*
> 
> Any Aquacomputer PWM D5 pump, including the one you mention, works with any AQ5 or AQ6 without modification.


----------



## mechanic2

Hello all,
I didn't know that. Yep, I remember that but I haven't found a use for them at this time.I appreciate the info.
Thanks,
rich!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RDKing2*
> 
> It is no longer supported. For the last few firmware upgrades. The farbwerk now uses those addreses.
> 
> The two pin pwm can be used for LED.


----------



## RDKing2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mechanic2*
> 
> Hello all I am using the one in the AE 6. Yes, I do know that the LEDs need to be common anode. If they weren't the LEDs wouldn't come on at all. Actually the AE 6 can control 3 different LEDs. The RGB connector has 4 pins. When looking at the back of the AE 6 the pins are numbered 4 to 1 going from left to right. The pin assignments also going from left to right are VCC LED 3, Ground, VCC LED 2, and VCC LED 1.
> You will find the control area under the Controller tab under the Aquaero listing. You should be able to turn the different LEDs on and off from there. Also you should be able to vary the brightness and the mixing of the various LEDs. I Installed six LED s in my reservoir. 2 each of Blue, Red, and Green. The Greens are hooked up in parallel as are the other two colors. Sometimes I can turn the different colors on but at other times nothing will happen. I changed the color setting to blue and those LEDs came on. Now I can't do anything else with the settings. They aren't working right.
> which led controler, the one built into the aq or farbwerk ?
> and most are common anode iirc and the aq is common anode ( or the other way around )
> with the exception of the tubemeter and multiswitch !


[/quote]

While using separate LEDS might work for each color you can only use one LED per channel. You are most likely overloading the circuit with two LEDs per channel.


----------



## jsutter71

In regards to the mod my toys splitter, technically you don't really need to remove the 4th pin as long as all the fans are identical. In my build I'm using 5 of these splitters. One per radiator and one for my aquabus cables. During my power tests I've been able to control the fans as a group. Now Ive only done this through the AQ6 interface so I can't comment about the software interface.


----------



## Mega Man

You may of damaged your aquaero. It specifically stated (iirc) on the forums or maybe on the instructions that it is designed for one rgb led or 3 leds (one per channel) any more is at your own risk.
My only other statement would be to get A rbg led and test that or test it with a volt meter.

Your leds could be dieing ect....

Those led's would be a great thing to put on the 2 pin pwm outputs


----------



## Newtocooling

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> at 12v those Noctuas are rated at 1800 rpm. Since you have 8 on a splitter some drop is expected so 1661 rpm sound about right at 100% PWM from the Aquaero. In regard to the GTs channels check if they are set to voltage regulated channels or if for some reason they are not set to pwm. Also, do you have more than one GT per Aquaero channel? If so which splitter are you using?


Gab I have 8 GT's per channel one on a Darkside 8way splitter, and 8 more GT's on another ModmyMods 8 way splitter. Both channels are set to voltage control, they are not PWM fans though. Only the 8 Notuas are PWM. I just wasn't sure if you can mix PWM on one channel, and voltage control on another. I know that I need to go into advanced on Aquasuite and change my settings for each channel depending on what control I need on that particular channel. I just wasn't sure if it was okay to mix them.


----------



## Mega Man

No you can't. Unless you want to control then with voltage control. Which is discouraged because it can damage the PWM circuit


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Newtocooling*
> 
> Gab I have 8 GT's per channel one on a Darkside 8way splitter, and 8 more GT's on another ModmyMods 8 way splitter. Both channels are set to voltage control, they are not PWM fans though. Only the 8 Notuas are PWM. I just wasn't sure if you can mix PWM on one channel, and voltage control on another. I know that I need to go into advanced on Aquasuite and change my settings for each channel depending on what control I need on that particular channel. I just wasn't sure if it was okay to mix them.


if you put 8 pwm fans on channel 1 aquaero set to PWM and 8 GTs volt regulated (non-pwm model) on channel 2 set to volt regulated there is no problem at all Aquaero can handle it. In regard to the rpm reporting the only think I can think of is that all fans are reporting the rpm signal. The darkside splitter if I recall correctly is set right with only one terminal with all 3 pins and the rest with only 2. Check if you do have a fan set to the one fan header with all 3 pins. The modmytoys I don't known but if memory still serves I think it have all the tracers on it to all fan header and since all try to report rpm that might explain the lack of reading....The other thing I can think of it is the same psu 12 v lane feeding all these stuff (fans of all types and aquaero). Make a small experiment and feed the 12 v PWM fans with a different lane. Also try switching to PWm and then back to V to see what happen.


----------



## Mega Man

He is right. I reread your answer. Sorry for reason I thought you wanted to Miu pwm and voltage on one splitter... either way I was wrong.

You can mix up to 4 channels pwm or voltage controlled as you need.


----------



## MR-e

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jsutter71*
> 
> In regards to the mod my toys splitter, technically you don't really need to remove the 4th pin as long as all the fans are identical. In my build I'm using 5 of these splitters. One per radiator and one for my aquabus cables. During my power tests I've been able to control the fans as a group. Now Ive only done this through the AQ6 interface so I can't comment about the software interface.


Interesting, all my fans are the same so I guess the rpm variation wouldn't be such a big deal.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sexpot*
> 
> Interesting, all my fans are the same so I guess the rpm variation wouldn't be such a big deal.


you can certainly control all of them. The problem is in the report rpm function that will have mix signals from all fans confusing the Aquaero and making the readings erratic.


----------



## thekasafist

Hi Rich,
Thanks for the information that helps a bunch!

Regards,
T.K.


----------



## thekasafist

Hi jvillaveces,
Thank you as well for the insight every bit of info helps. I just want to feel safe with getting the right things instead of just grabbing anything and doing the noob thing.

Regards,
T.K.


----------



## jsutter71

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> you can certainly control all of them. The problem is in the report rpm function that will have mix signals from all fans confusing the Aquaero and making the readings erratic.


Why is that if they are the same type of fan?


----------



## Newtocooling

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> if you put 8 pwm fans on channel 1 aquaero set to PWM and 8 GTs volt regulated (non-pwm model) on channel 2 set to volt regulated there is no problem at all Aquaero can handle it. In regard to the rpm reporting the only think I can think of is that all fans are reporting the rpm signal. The darkside splitter if I recall correctly is set right with only one terminal with all 3 pins and the rest with only 2. Check if you do have a fan set to the one fan header with all 3 pins. The modmytoys I don't known but if memory still serves I think it have all the tracers on it to all fan header and since all try to report rpm that might explain the lack of reading....The other thing I can think of it is the same psu 12 v lane feeding all these stuff (fans of all types and aquaero). Make a small experiment and feed the 12 v PWM fans with a different lane. Also try switching to PWm and then back to V to see what happen.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> He is right. I reread your answer. Sorry for reason I thought you wanted to Miu pwm and voltage on one splitter... either way I was wrong.
> 
> You can mix up to 4 channels pwm or voltage controlled as you need.


Thanks for the help guys. I will be mixing one set of 8 GT's, and one set of Noctua PWM's when I get my pedestal next week, nice to know I won't have a problem.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jsutter71*
> 
> Why is that if they are the same type of fan?


because all fans will be reporting their rpm signal back to aquaero which will confuse the device. Each fan will report its rpm via internal tachometer. Since each fan will send an electrical pulse to the sense pin you can figure what will happen with several of it sending the pulses through the same wire in the splitter.


----------



## jsutter71

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> because all fans will be reporting their rpm signal back to aquaero which will confuse the device. Each fan will report its rpm via internal tachometer. Since each fan will send an electrical pulse to the sense pin you can figure what will happen with several of it sending the pulses through the same wire in the splitter.


So the best option is either modding that splitter or purchasing one like this.
http://www.thermaltake.com/products-model.aspx?id=C_00002702

Or, I was wondering if you could keep using the modmytoys splitter and just change the fan profile settings in the software.


----------



## jsutter71

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> No, we are talking about a splitter.
> A few weeks.
> They were slightly modified a long time ago. It already starts to become a bit ridiculous that I only read such problems from Caselabs users. So what are the other thousands of customers doing?


Any updates on that splitter?


----------



## mechanic2

JSutter,
I am using these:
http://www.silverstonetek.com/product.php?pid=526&area=en and
a Phobya 8 way splitter but I can't find it on the Phobya website. ModMyMods carries it. Here is a picture of it.


You don't have to remember to disconnect the RPM signal from the other fans with these as only one RPM signal is connected inside these two splitters. I am also using splitter cables that are designed for running multiple fans at one time. They also have only one RPM line connected. They come in 2, 3, 4, 5, and 8 configurations as far as I know. I have also built my own cables from scratch.
Thanks,
rich!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jsutter71*
> 
> Any updates on that splitter?


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jsutter71*
> 
> So the best option is either modding that splitter or purchasing one like this.
> http://www.thermaltake.com/products-model.aspx?id=C_00002702
> 
> Or, I was wondering if you could keep using the modmytoys splitter and just change the fan profile settings in the software.


swiftech and silverstone have good pwm splitters made it right. That thermaltake I can not guarantee never used.

http://www.silverstonetek.com/product.php?pid=526&area=en


----------



## jsutter71

I have a Silverstone splitter which I tried a long time ago on a different project. I couldn't get it to work properly at the time so I just tossed it aside.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jsutter71*
> 
> I have a Silverstone splitter which I tried a long time ago on a different project. I couldn't get it to work properly at the time so I just tossed it aside.


maybe try again with the aquearo because people use it and seems to work just fine. I personally have the swiftech (3 of them) and works well.


----------



## mechanic2

Megaman,
I did some more checking. The LEDs and my wiring is fine. It looks like it is the AE6. I'll contact Sven on Monday. Right now Germany is having a holiday and he isn't available. Oops. I appreciate the help everyone!
Thanks, rich!
Here are a some of pictures of the reservoir mounting and the piping. As you can see I still have some work to do on how I have the reservoir mounted.



Thanks,
rich!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> You may of damaged your aquaero. It specifically stated (iirc) on the forums or maybe on the instructions that it is designed for one rgb led or 3 leds (one per channel) any more is at your own risk.
> My only other statement would be to get A rbg led and test that or test it with a volt meter.
> 
> Your leds could be dieing ect....
> 
> Those led's would be a great thing to put on the 2 pin pwm outputs


----------



## mechanic2

JSutter,
My Silverstone splitter works like a charm.
rich!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jsutter71*
> 
> I have a Silverstone splitter which I tried a long time ago on a different project. I couldn't get it to work properly at the time so I just tossed it aside.


----------



## MR-e

Hey guys, random question! For heatshrink, what size should I get to cover 4 pin PWM fan connectors? The eLoops have a very short cable run and I want to cover up the color cables with heatshrink and the PWM connector as well. I was thinking of getting something big enough to just slide over the entire cable/connector and just heat it up!

Thanks!


----------



## jsutter71

So all this talk about fan splitters. So it's been established that the Modmytoys splitters which I currently have five of. ! per rad and 1 for my Aquabus connections. Do work except, will cause erratic fan readings in the Aquaero. So, will I run into issues using this splitter for my Aquabus connections.


----------



## mechanic2

JSutter,
I don't think so. The AC AB splitters do connect all four lines together. The wiring of the AB in this order is Black, Ground; Green, SDA-Data Line; White, SCL-Clock Line;, Red, +5Volts. The RED wire is not needed and it is not on some devices.This is looking at the back of the AE with Pin 1 on your left. I hope that this helps.
Thanks,
rich!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jsutter71*
> 
> So all this talk about fan splitters. So it's been established that the Modmytoys splitters which I currently have five of. ! per rad and 1 for my Aquabus connections. Do work except, will cause erratic fan readings in the Aquaero. So, will I run into issues using this splitter for my Aquabus connections.


----------



## mechanic2

Hello all,
This is the hottest that my bedroom has been this season. The Ambient Temperature is about 92 F, The Front Radiator Temperature is about 94 F, the CPUs are running at about 115 F, the HDDs that are liquid cooled are running at about 93 F. these are labeled Record Drives 1 and 2, the other HDDs are running from 97 to 106 F: these are air cooled, and the AE amps are running from 103 to 110 degrees F. This works out in this order as about 33 C, 34 C, 46 C, 34 C, 36 to 41 C, and 39 to 43 C. I didn't list anything else because they aren't liquid cooled at this point. The Firepro graphics card is going to be replaced by two EVGA GeForce GTX 980 graphics cards and these will be liquid cooled. Also I will be adding ram blocks and a block on the 612 chip which functions as both the NB and SB and the MB VRMs. And all of my HDD drives will be liquid cooled. Here are a couple of screen shots:


Does anyone know why you can upload pictures sometimes and not at other times?
Thanks,
rich!


----------



## Mega Man

Your pics may be too large.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jsutter71*
> 
> So all this talk about fan splitters. So it's been established that the Modmytoys splitters which I currently have five of. ! per rad and 1 for my Aquabus connections. Do work except, will cause erratic fan readings in the Aquaero. So, will I run into issues using this splitter for my Aquabus connections.


You can snip a RPM pin or cut a trace if you need a fan splitter. If you flip them over and take a pic we can show you which trace to cut if you want


----------



## ezzdwag

Hey can anyone tell me how to get the silver face plate off the pcb of the 6xt seems glued


----------



## mechanic2

Ezzdwag,
After you remove the 4 screws in the front from the AE you should be able to pull it straight out and have it come loose. There is multi pin connector that the LCD is plugged in to. also watch out for four plastic washers that are at each corner. Don't lose them. The mounting brackets will come loose. Those washers are important. It is best that you do this on a work surface. That connector is difficult to unplug.
Thanks,
rich!


----------



## GTXJackBauer

I used a little heat from a blow dryer, as recommended from others including AC to remove and change the face plate with ease.


----------



## mechanic2

Jack,
Ah, learn something new.
Thanks,
rich!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GTXJackBauer*
> 
> I used a little heat from a blow dryer, as recommended from others including AC to remove and change the face plate with ease.


----------



## fast_fate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sexpot*
> 
> Hey guys, random question! For heatshrink, what size should I get to cover 4 pin PWM fan connectors? The eLoops have a very short cable run and I want to cover up the color cables with heatshrink and the PWM connector as well. I was thinking of getting something big enough to just slide over the entire cable/connector and just heat it up!
> 
> Thanks!


You might find some of the info here handy for your eLoops


----------



## Newtocooling

Sorry to bring up another splitter question, but if I use a PWM splitter like the Silverstone, or Swiftech with voltage controlled fans like my Darkside GT's, I know the power will come from the sata cable, but how will I control the fan speed on the Aquaero? There will be a four pin going from the splitter to the Aquaero, and power from the sata connection, so I think that the Aquaero cannot voltage control the speed of these fans since they are not PWM right?

I know I can get the Modmytoys 3 pin splitter, but I hate messing with cutting the pins, or scratching the RPM feed for the other fans. I was hoping there might be a way to switch to a PWM splitter, even though the fans are voltage controlled. The Swiftech and Silverstone are the only two 8 way splitters that I know that only takes the RPM reading from the first fan header.


----------



## mechanic2

NewToCooling,
The Phoyba splitter that I pointed you to and showed you a picture of also only has one RPM connection. I rewired the Silverstone splitter so that it now has all four connections going to the AE. Now it gets the power for the fans from the AE and voltage control will work properly.
Thanks,
rich!


----------



## Newtocooling

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mechanic2*
> 
> NewToCooling,
> The Phoyba splitter that I pointed you to and showed you a picture of also only has one RPM connection. I rewired the Silverstone splitter so that it now has all four connections going to the AE. Now it gets the power for the fans from the AE and voltage control will work properly.
> Thanks,
> rich!


Thanks mechanic2, I looked at the Phoyba Splitter I thought it needed molex power on that one? How did you rewire the Silverstone to work with the AE with voltage controlled fans?


----------



## mechanic2

NewToCooling,
I removed the Molex power connector and added the appropriate pins so that I could put the voltage supply wire into the connector that plugs in to the AE. You'll need to get the fan pins and a crimping tool.
Thanks,
rich!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Newtocooling*
> 
> Thanks mechanic2, I looked at the Phoyba Splitter I thought it needed molex power on that one? How did you rewire the Silverstone to work with the AE with voltage controlled fans?


----------



## Newtocooling

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mechanic2*
> 
> NewToCooling,
> I removed the Molex power connector and added the appropriate pins so that I could put the voltage supply wire into the connector that plugs in to the AE. You'll need to get the fan pins and a crimping tool.
> Thanks,
> rich!


I really don't want to mess with the electrical components of something I'll be plugging into my Aquaero as I don't really want to brick it. It doesn't take much electrically to kill an Aquaero, I made a female to femalel molex connector once two years ago and checked and rechecked voltage rating on it, and still killed an Aquaero with it.


----------



## NeeqOne

Has anyone ever had the error code 43 with the Aquacomputer D5 USB?


----------



## TheDude26

Hello All,

I am planning to redo my loop and I am planning to move to an Aquaero 6.

My pump - MCP35x2

I have 4 x 480 radiators that I will be using. I am planning to hook up 8 fans per radiator per PWM channel on the Aquaero 6. So each PWM channel on the AQ6 will control 8 fans each. (thanks IT Diva)

I also have 2 x 240 radiators and I am planning to pick up 2 Poweradjust 3s, one for each radiator fan setup. So I will be running 4 fans off of each Poweradjust 3, or at least that is my plan.

I am planning to use the Swiftech PWM splitter for each group of fans and run the PWM cable back to the AQ6 with the power coming off the PSU via sata connection.

For the 240 radiator fans, I am planning to use 3 pin fans and set them up via voltage control using the power adjust 3s.

I am planning to use the following fans: http://www.newegg.com/Product/ProductList.aspx?Submit=ENE&DEPA=0&Order=BESTMATCH&Description=CF-V12HPB&N=-1&isNodeId=1

My questions are,

1. Is this doable?
2. Could I use Corsair SP120 PWM fans instead? I read that this is not possible due to Corsairs PWM conflict with Swiftech splitters.
3. Once I hook up the 4 480 radiator fan groups (8 fans per AQ6 PWM channel) to the AQ6, is there still enough juice to hook up my pump to the AQ6?
4. Can I hook up 4 fans per PowerAdjust 3? Could I do 8 fans per poweradjust 3?

Thanks for the assistance.


----------



## RDKing2

Are you using the other fans channels on the Aquaero for something else? Not sure why you need the PA? You can use separate channels for pwm or voltage control. I have controlled up to 12 Akasa 140mm vipers on one pwm channel (all I had in hand) you may be able to do more. The corsairs are limited to to about 5 or 6 fans due to their construction, do not know why. Not really that great of a fan for the money IMO anyway. Their is no reason (other than loss of pwm control) you cannot put more than one rad on each channel unless you need separate control or monitoring. You can probably connect more fans than is feasible to each fan channel or power adjust.


----------



## TheDude26

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RDKing2*
> 
> Are you using the other fans channels on the Aquaero for something else? Not sure why you need the PA? You can use separate channels for pwm or voltage control. I have controlled up to 12 Akasa 140mm vipers on one pwm channel (all I had in hand) you may be able to do more. The corsairs are limited to to about 5 or 6 fans due to their construction, do not know why. Not really that great of a fan for the money IMO anyway. Their is no reason (other than loss of pwm control) you cannot put more than one rad on each channel unless you need separate control or monitoring. You can probably connect more fans than is feasible to each fan channel or power adjust.


Ill skip the Corsairs and stick with the Cougars, they seem like better fans that will allow more than 5/6 PWM controlled.

So I could PWM control the following:

AQ6 CH 1 - 16 fans PWM (combining 2 x 480 radiators)
AQ6 CH 2 - 16 fans PWM (combining 2 x 480 radiators)
AQ6 CH 3 - 8 fans PWM (combing 2 240 radiators)
AQ6 CH 4 - 4 fans PWM (case fans)

If I do this, can I daisy chain the Swifttech PWM splitters?

Plus still have room for my pump on the AQ6?


----------



## RDKing2

Should be no problem daisy chaining the splitters. I would pick up 16 of your fans and try them with the splitters first to make sure the pwm signal is still strong enough before fully committing. If hooking the fans up as you stated above and you already have a standard D5 pump a PA would be needed for control through the aquabus. If you do not have the D5 yet get the Aquacomputer USB/Aquabus version and it can be controlled through the aquabus without the need of a PA. Recommend staying away from the PWM pumps. Not needed.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheDude26*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *RDKing2*
> 
> Are you using the other fans channels on the Aquaero for something else? Not sure why you need the PA? You can use separate channels for pwm or voltage control. I have controlled up to 12 Akasa 140mm vipers on one pwm channel (all I had in hand) you may be able to do more. The corsairs are limited to to about 5 or 6 fans due to their construction, do not know why. Not really that great of a fan for the money IMO anyway. Their is no reason (other than loss of pwm control) you cannot put more than one rad on each channel unless you need separate control or monitoring. You can probably connect more fans than is feasible to each fan channel or power adjust.
> 
> 
> 
> Ill skip the Corsairs and stick with the Cougars, they seem like better fans that will allow more than 5/6 PWM controlled.
> 
> So I could PWM control the following:
> 
> AQ6 CH 1 - 16 fans PWM (combining 2 x 480 radiators)
> AQ6 CH 2 - 16 fans PWM (combining 2 x 480 radiators)
> AQ6 CH 3 - 8 fans PWM (combing 2 240 radiators)
> AQ6 CH 4 - 4 fans PWM (case fans)
> 
> If I do this, can I daisy chain the Swifttech PWM splitters?
> 
> Plus still have room for my pump on the AQ6?
Click to expand...

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RDKing2*
> 
> Should be no problem daisy chaining the splitters. I would pick up 16 of your fans and try them with the splitters first to make sure the pwm signal is still strong enough before fully committing. If hooking the fans up as you stated above and you already have a standard D5 pump a PA would be needed for control through the aquabus. If you do not have the D5 yet get the Aquacomputer USB/Aquabus version and it can be controlled through the aquabus without the need of a PA. Recommend staying away from the PWM pumps. Not needed.


He said he has the 35X2 pumps, so he needs a channel for them

Back when I tested the Corsair PWM 120's, as long as it was not the very original A6 with the 100 Ohm protective resistors, (they went to 47 ohm within a month or two of release) you were pretty much OK with up to about 10 fans on a channel.

Started going to crap at 11, but staying at 8 for a 480 rad always maintained full control.

For the Cougars, you'll want to test first if you want to try for 16 on a single channel. . . . That may be a bit ambitious . . .

Keep in mind also that when you daisy chain the splitters, be sure to plug the second one into any position except #1, (so you don't have 2 fans reporting rpm) and you'll have 15 fan ports cuz the second splitter used up one on the first splitter


----------



## RDKing2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> He said he has the 35X2 pumps, so he needs a channel for them
> 
> Back when I tested the Corsair PWM 120's, as long as it was not the very original A6 with the 100 Ohm protective resistors, (they went to 47 ohm within a month or two of release) you were pretty much OK with up to about 10 fans on a channel.
> 
> Started going to crap at 11, but staying at 8 for a 480 rad always maintained full control.
> 
> For the Cougars, you'll want to test first if you want to try for 16 on a single channel. . . . That may be a bit ambitious . . .
> 
> Keep in mind also that when you daisy chain the splitters, be sure to plug the second one into any position except #1, (so you don't have 2 fans reporting rpm) and you'll have 15 fan ports cuz the second splitter used up one on the first splitter


I agree to test it out first. As stated I only tried 12 of the Akasa fans I am using.
Unless I am not thinking straight it should not matter on the port used for the second splitter. Even if the second splitter is plugged into the active rpm port on the first splitter, the only rpm reported would be from the active rpm port on the second splitter. A "Y" cable could be used on any of the ports to gain back the lost port.

Sorry did not read the other post about the 35x2. Unfortunately at this time there is no way to gain additional PWM channels. Even if an AQ5 is slaved the single PWM port function is lost.

Where are the PWM PA's Aquacomputer?


----------



## mechanic2

NewToCooling,
I know of a way that you can do this and not have to do any rewiring. Get the Phoyba splitter and either the 4 wire or 3 wire AquaBus cable. Connect the AB cable to a fan connector on the AE and connect the other end to the Phoyba splitter in place of the cable that was supplied by Phoyba. It works great. This is exactly what I have done to hook up the 8 upper fans to the AE.
Thanks,
rich!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Newtocooling*
> 
> I really don't want to mess with the electrical components of something I'll be plugging into my Aquaero as I don't really want to brick it. It doesn't take much electrically to kill an Aquaero, I made a female to femalel molex connector once two years ago and checked and rechecked voltage rating on it, and still killed an Aquaero with it.


----------



## mechanic2

Darlene,
First off I am going to ask for your permission to reply to each of these posts separately. Please? I want to be able to quote them so that everything stays straight and I can't do that by replying to only one post with everything in that one post.
Yep, if he uses those pumps he either has to hook both pumps to one channel with a splitter or splitter cable. In this case the pumps can only be controlled as one. This also uses up a channel on the AE6 and that leaves him three channels for fans. If he wants to control each pump individually he will need two channels. Now he only has two channels for fans.
He could use PAs but they only have voltage control. He could add a 5LT, don't slave it, it will show up in its own tab, but this only adds one PWM channel. Another option is to get another AE6. I would get the Pro version. Now there are two options with it. You could mount it in another bay or you could remove the display and convert it into a LT version and then mount it anywhere you want to in the case. Now you have 6 to 8 PWM channels. You could also use voltage controlled fans on the PAs and the 5LT. If he uses D-5 USB/AB pumps then he doesn't have to use any of the fan channels on the AE to control the pumps. That is what I have done and I am going to run out of fan channels. I prefer PWM control. I can then use a separate 12 Volt connection to the fans. The amplifiers in the AE drop about 0.6 volts, so only about 11.4 volts is available for the fans. This isn't a real big deal unless you need the extra speed or if you want to use a voltage converter so that you can use 24 volts than you have to use a separate PS connection to a 24 volt rated fan.
Yep, you are limited to how many PWM devices that can be used on one channel. What happens is that each PW device degrades the PW signal a little bit. When the signal has degraded to a certain point the fans or any PWM device will no longer recognize it. Most fans will revert to full speed. I don't know what the MCP35 pumps will do. My understanding is that the Corsair fans draw more current from the PWM signal and that causes them to degrade at a faster rate,
When you daisy chain splitters you lose two fan connections. You lose one on the first splitter as you have to use one of the fan connections for the next splitter. You also lose one on the second splitter as you can use the first connection as you don't want any additional RPM signal to be put on to the bus. So each additional splitter only adds 6 more fans. Two splitters will give you 14 fans. Three gives you 20 fans. There is a way to gain those fan connections back. I just thought of it. If you daisy chain the splitters though the fan connector that forwards the RPM signal and then connect a fan to the first fan position on the last splitter you will now only have one RPM signal and you gain back one fan connection on each splitter. So one splitter gives you 8 fans, two splitters give you 15 fans, three give you 22 fans, and so forth.
I really like the Phoyba fan splitter, It works like it is supposed to, it is flexible, it supports voltage control or PWM control, it is able to mount in some reasonably small areas, and the price is reasonable.
Thanks,
rich!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> He said he has the 35X2 pumps, so he needs a channel for them
> 
> Back when I tested the Corsair PWM 120's, as long as it was not the very original A6 with the 100 Ohm protective resistors, (they went to 47 ohm within a month or two of release) you were pretty much OK with up to about 10 fans on a channel.
> 
> Started going to crap at 11, but staying at 8 for a 480 rad always maintained full control.
> 
> For the Cougars, you'll want to test first if you want to try for 16 on a single channel. . . . That may be a bit ambitious . . .
> 
> Keep in mind also that when you daisy chain the splitters, be sure to plug the second one into any position except #1, (so you don't have 2 fans reporting rpm) and you'll have 15 fan ports cuz the second splitter used up one on the first splitter


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mechanic2*
> 
> Darlene,
> First off I am going to ask for your permission to reply to each of these posts separately. Please? I want to be able to quote them so that everything stays straight and I can't do that by replying to only one post with everything in that one post.
> Yep, if he uses those pumps he either has to hook both pumps to one channel with a splitter or splitter cable. In this case the pumps can only be controlled as one. This also uses up a channel on the AE6 and that leaves him three channels for fans. If he wants to control each pump individually he will need two channels. Now he only has two channels for fans.
> He could use PAs but they only have voltage control. He could add a 5LT, don't slave it, it will show up in its own tab, but this only adds one PWM channel. Another option is to get another AE6. I would get the Pro version. Now there are two options with it. You could mount it in another bay or you could remove the display and convert it into a LT version and then mount it anywhere you want to in the case. Now you have 6 to 8 PWM channels. You could also use voltage controlled fans on the PAs and the 5LT. If he uses D-5 USB/AB pumps then he doesn't have to use any of the fan channels on the AE to control the pumps. That is what I have done and I am going to run out of fan channels. I prefer PWM control. I can then use a separate 12 Volt connection to the fans. The amplifiers in the AE drop about 0.6 volts, so only about 11.4 volts is available for the fans. This isn't a real big deal unless you need the extra speed or if you want to use a voltage converter so that you can use 24 volts than you have to use a separate PS connection to a 24 volt rated fan.
> *Yep, you are limited to how many PWM devices that can be used on one channel. What happens is that each PW device degrades the PW signal a little bit. When the signal has degraded to a certain point the fans or any PWM device will no longer recognize it. Most fans will revert to full speed. I don't know what the MCP35 pumps will do. My understanding is that the Corsair fans draw more current from the PWM signal and that causes them to degrade at a faster rate,
> * When you daisy chain splitters you lose two fan connections. You lose one on the first splitter as you have to use one of the fan connections for the next splitter. You also lose one on the second splitter as you can use the first connection as you don't want any additional RPM signal to be put on to the bus. So each additional splitter only adds 6 more fans. Two splitters will give you 14 fans. Three gives you 20 fans. There is a way to gain those fan connections back. I just thought of it. If you daisy chain the splitters though the fan connector that forwards the RPM signal and then connect a fan to the first fan position on the last splitter you will now only have one RPM signal and you gain back one fan connection on each splitter. So one splitter gives you 8 fans, two splitters give you 15 fans, three give you 22 fans, and so forth.
> I really like the Phoyba fan splitter, It works like it is supposed to, it is flexible, it supports voltage control or PWM control, it is able to mount in some reasonably small areas, and the price is reasonable.
> Thanks,
> rich!
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> He said he has the 35X2 pumps, so he needs a channel for them
> 
> Back when I tested the Corsair PWM 120's, as long as it was not the very original A6 with the 100 Ohm protective resistors, (they went to 47 ohm within a month or two of release) you were pretty much OK with up to about 10 fans on a channel.
> 
> Started going to crap at 11, but staying at 8 for a 480 rad always maintained full control.
> 
> For the Cougars, you'll want to test first if you want to try for 16 on a single channel. . . . That may be a bit ambitious . . .
> 
> Keep in mind also that when you daisy chain the splitters, be sure to plug the second one into any position except #1, (so you don't have 2 fans reporting rpm) and you'll have 15 fan ports cuz the second splitter used up one on the first splitter
Click to expand...

Seems no matter how many times I explain PWM as it relates to PCs and the Intel standard that was developed, essentially for CPU fan control . . . .

The more I end up having to do it all over again . . .









Rich, I know you want to be helpful, and have a lot of varied experiences and areas of knowledge . . .

But you just have to learn to communicate it more effectively than in a massive wall of text . . . . . Which almost no one then reads with any understanding, if they read more than a few lines at all.

Keep things to bullet points, or like soundbites, leave a space, like a pause, to let the text register. . . . some extra punctuation helps sometimes to keep people from reading to fast and conflating lines of information . . . .

That said, . .

Let's get back to PWM;

There's no such thing as drawing too much current from the PWM signal . .

The PWM controlling device, be it an A6 or any other Intel standard PWM controller sources NOTHING . . . .

It is either High Z, (effectively open circuit) or connected to ground, with a small value series resistor to prevent excessive current from flowing thru the transistor in the event of an improper connection on the PWM pin.

The controlled device, fans or pumps, have the onus on them to have their PWM line pulled up to 5V thru a resistor that limits the max possible current, with the PWM line grounded, to 5ma.

The concept of a PWM "signal" only makes sense in a sort of analogous manner.

Without the controller switching the already pulled high PWM line to ground for some amount of microseconds greater than zero and less then 40, nothing creates or sends any information to anywhere.

If the controller transistor (mosfet) stays in its Hi-Z state, the controlled device continues to run at max.

If the controller transistor stays in its "on" state, conducting to ground, the controlled device will either stop, or run at a preset minimum speed.

To back up just slightly, where I mentioned a timeframe of more than 0 microseconds and less than 40 microseconds, that comes from the nominal frequency of the Intel standard of 25KHz.

In other words, if the controller transistor is Hi-Z for 10 microseconds and conducting to ground for 30us, then the PWM line is at 5V for those first 10 us, and at nominally 0V for the next 30 us.

That would be a 25% duty cycle, and the pump or fan would run quite slowly.

Now in truth, you'll never see conduction thru an electronic semiconductor component so perfect that it can have no voltage drop, and don't forget that I mentioned protective resistors in series with the transistor (mosfet)

The nominally 0V when the transistor is conducting is going to be the key here . . .

OK, . . . . Now that you sort of understand what PWM actually is, and how it comes to be in a real PC hardware setup . . .

Here's what happens as you add more and more devices to a controller transistor, or channel.

If we use the max limit of the Intel standard for max allowed current in the PWM line of 5ma, and being pulled up to 5V, then the resistor in the controlled device has to be 1000 ohms.

With one device, that 1000 ohm resistor is in series with the 100 ohm resistor that's there to protect the controller transistor from excessive current.

That's a 10 to 1 ratio voltage divider, so the actual nominally 0V signal that the controlled device sees to adjust its speed is not 0V but 0.45V

If we add three more of the same devices, then the four 1000 ohm internal resistors in parallel are effectively 250 ohms in series with the 100 ohm protective resistor . . .

We now have a 2.5 to 1 voltage divider so that when the transistor is conducting, the 4 devices see 1.43V instead of nominally 0V

To take a realistic number of fans for a system, say 10, then that's 10 1k resistors in parallel for 100 ohms total, . . . .in series with a 100 ohm protective resistor and shazammm . .

Instead of nominally 0V, all 10 device see 2.5V and run happily on at about full speed regardless of the controller's PWM duty cycle setting . . .

Now . . .

The way the electronic switching works in a PWM controlled device, is that as long as the PWM line voltage is below about 0.8V, it stays turned off and no power goes to the motor.

Once the PWM line voltage stops going below the 0.8V cutoff threshold during the nominally "off" times on each cycle, the motor continues to get some amount of power.

That's why you lose progressively more control of the low speed range as you add more devices after a certain number that keeps the off time voltage level rising above the 0.8V threshold.

OK . . . So now how do we fix the problem . . .

There's 2 ways to come at it . . .

One is to reduce the value of the protective resistors.

The A6 originally had 100 ohm resistors, that's why I used it in my example above.

They lowered that 100 ohms to 47ohms,and it makes a big difference, . . . go back and re-run the examples with 47 ohms instead of 100 ohms, and you'll see.

The other aspect, is how much max current to you allow on the PWM line, as far as deciding on the value of the internal pullup resistor. . . .

Now this is up to the manufacturer, but if they size the resistor to allow a max of only 1ma, so that would be a 5K resistor, instead of a 1K resistor, in the above example . . . .

And it seems that for the most part, they've done this . . . the 5ma max was from decades back when even the biggest air coolers had no more than 2 fans, and most builds had a basic Intel stock cooler. . .

Electronics technology has progressed massively in the last 25 years to where less than 1ma is well more than enough for a max current level for a PWM line. (but I digress)

And if we combine that change with the 47 ohm in place of the 100 ohm resistors, and we are 10 times better off than we were before.

To take the example with 10 devices . . .

Ten 5K resistors in parallel is 500 ohms, and that's in series with the 47, (call it 50 for convenient math) ohm protective resistor, and we're back to having a 10 to 1 voltage divider ratio again, so now all 10 devices see 0.45V during the "off time" portion of the cycle . . . . .

Which is safely below the ~0.8V threshold where they start to loose control, and all of them work exactly as expected . . . .









Hope that helps everyone understand PWM for your PC . . .

now someone please bookmark this post

Darlene

Now just to be clear, remember that I mentioned that there was no perfect semiconductor switch, and that there would always be some amount of voltage drop across the device itself, but I left that out in the above examples because for mosfets, it's so low that trying to include it in the examples would have made them laborious and confusing.

Realistically, it probably accounts for maybe 0.05 to 0.1V or so, depending on the current.


----------



## vietrice89

Am I suppose to the Aquaero directly to my motherboard somehow to get it to read on aquasuite? Is there any other beginner guides or is the one on the front page it?


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vietrice89*
> 
> Am I suppose to the Aquaero directly to my motherboard somehow to get it to read on aquasuite? Is there any other beginner guides or is the one on the front page it?


You need to connect it via the USB cable that came with it . . . be careful to not reverse the connectors.

On the A6 end, the colors are labeled on the device, and the black wires on the mobo end go to the end of the socket with the 1 pin removed key.

Be sure the power connector has all 4 wires, so it has both 12V and 5V from the PSU.

Sometimes extensions are only the 12V wires


----------



## vietrice89

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> You need to connect it via the USB cable that came with it . . . be careful to not reverse the connectors.
> 
> On the A6 end, the colors are labeled on the device, and the black wires on the mobo end go to the end of the socket with the 1 pin removed key.
> 
> Be sure the power connector has all 4 wires, so it has both 12V and 5V from the PSU.
> 
> Sometimes extensions are only the 12V wires


so do i connect the pump to the Aquaero? or to the motherboard?


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vietrice89*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> You need to connect it via the USB cable that came with it . . . be careful to not reverse the connectors.
> 
> On the A6 end, the colors are labeled on the device, and the black wires on the mobo end go to the end of the socket with the 1 pin removed key.
> 
> Be sure the power connector has all 4 wires, so it has both 12V and 5V from the PSU.
> 
> Sometimes extensions are only the 12V wires
> 
> 
> 
> so do i connect the pump to the Aquaero? or to the motherboard?
Click to expand...

What pump are you using ?

If it's one of the AC USB D5s, it needs to be connected to the Mobo via USB initially as well.

If it's something else, I can't tell you without knowing what it is.


----------



## vietrice89

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> What pump are you using ?
> 
> If it's one of the AC USB D5s, it needs to be connected to the Mobo via USB initially as well.
> 
> If it's something else, I can't tell you without knowing what it is.


Connected it. Everything is showing up now.


----------



## MR-e

Hello Everyone,

May I ask a "how to" setup & configure type of question? I currently have the following equipment:

1x Aquaero 6 Pro
1x AC D5 USB
1x MPS400 Flow Sensor

My question would be, how do I install and configure all this?! I think I would first need to connect both the AQ6 and D5 USB via USB to my two mobo usb 2.0 headers. Then I'm completely lost on what to do next. Can you please explain the setup procedure?

My next question would be, how do I connect the D5 and Flow Sensor to the AQ6 directly? I read something about Aquabus Ports and splitting them?

Thank you!


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sexpot*
> 
> Hello Everyone,
> 
> May I ask a "how to" setup & configure type of question? I currently have the following equipment:
> 
> 1x Aquaero 6 Pro
> 1x AC D5 USB
> 1x MPS400 Flow Sensor
> 
> My question would be, how do I install and configure all this?! I think I would first need to connect both the AQ6 and D5 USB via USB to my two mobo usb 2.0 headers. Then I'm completely lost on what to do next. Can you please explain the setup procedure?
> 
> My next question would be, how do I connect the D5 and Flow Sensor to the AQ6 directly? I read something about Aquabus Ports and splitting them?
> 
> Thank you!


If you want to use the d5 and mps400 via Aquabus you need a splitter for both. However you will need to connect both via USB first and change the aquabus address of one of the devices (from 12 to 13 for example). Then you need to set priority aquabus for both devices in theirs settings page in Aquasuite. In any case you can run all 3 of them from the usb in the MB if you want. The choice is yours. If you set up as USB you will have different "pages" for each device that will appear as MPS devices on Aquasuite. If you put both on Aquabus both pump and flow meter will appear under the Aquaero tab.


----------



## Mystriss

Speaking of USB connections...

TLDR version: Has anyone done D5 pumps and/or flow sensor's direct wired to USB Type A to 5pin connector cables (a la https://modmymods.com/aquacomputer-usb-cable-a-plug-to-5-pin-female-connector-200-cm-53210.html ) off a USB hub?

My build has two separate loops (CPU+AquaEro block, and two GPUs) so I'm looking to connect two AquaComputer D5 aquabus/usb pumps, two of the aquabus/usb high flow meters (w/inline temp probes connected), and possibly a backup Swifttech MPC655-PWM pump as backup on the GPU loop. Which obviously isn't all going to fit on an Aquaero 5 LT aquabus. One 120mm push/pull rad and one 240mm push/pull rad, plus two "other" cooling fans [grand total of eight fans)

I'm feeling very meh on buying an Aquaero 6 XT lately as I have no need of, nor place to put, the display, which means pulling that (essentially making an AQ6 LT) at which point, as I understand it, the AQ5 LT becomes meaningless. It just feels like such a waste of $200 to slave the AQ5, so I'm kind of not wanting to buy AQ6 and just going with direct USB for the pumps or flow sensors that won't fit on the AQ5, however, I don't have enough onboard USB headers, nor do i have enough free USB type A's so I'd have to hub it.


----------



## fast_fate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mystriss*
> 
> Speaking of USB connections...
> 
> TLDR version: Has anyone done D5 pumps and/or flow sensor's direct wired to USB Type A to 5pin connector cables (a la https://modmymods.com/aquacomputer-usb-cable-a-plug-to-5-pin-female-connector-200-cm-53210.html ) off a USB hub?
> 
> My build has two separate loops (CPU+AquaEro block, and two GPUs) so I'm looking to connect two AquaComputer D5 aquabus/usb pumps, two of the aquabus/usb high flow meters (w/inline temp probes connected), and possibly a backup Swifttech MPC655-PWM pump as backup on the GPU loop. Which obviously isn't all going to fit on an Aquaero 5 LT aquabus. One 120mm push/pull rad and one 240mm push/pull rad, plus two "other" cooling fans [grand total of eight fans)
> 
> I'm feeling very meh on buying an Aquaero 6 XT lately as I have no need of, nor place to put, the display, which means pulling that (essentially making an AQ6 LT) at which point, as I understand it, the AQ5 LT becomes meaningless. It just feels like such a waste of $200 to slave the AQ5, so I'm kind of not wanting to buy AQ6 and just going with direct USB for the pumps or flow sensors that won't fit on the AQ5, however, I don't have enough onboard USB headers, nor do i have enough free USB type A's so I'd have to hub it.


Have had both pump and flow meter plugged directly into laptop ports no problem using home mode cables as per your link.
additionally...
On our radiator thermal test rig there are 2 x Aquaero's and a CrystalFontz head unit connect to a laptop via a USB hub, plus a mouse.

You'll have no probemos


----------



## Mystriss

I guess I'm just under the impression that USB hubs are not the same as "directly plugged" into the system. I know a lot of USB devices advise a direct connection, but I'm not entirely clear if that is due to power needs or data... "corruption" or w/e.


----------



## MR-e

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> If you want to use the d5 and mps400 via Aquabus you need a splitter for both. However you will need to connect both via USB first and change the aquabus address of one of the devices (from 12 to 13 for example). Then you need to set priority aquabus for both devices in theirs settings page in Aquasuite. In any case you can run all 3 of them from the usb in the MB if you want. The choice is yours. If you set up as USB you will have different "pages" for each device that will appear as MPS devices on Aquasuite. If you put both on Aquabus both pump and flow meter will appear under the Aquaero tab.


Thanks Gabriel, so from your instructions I would:


Connect each device via USB first, assign an Aquabus ID# in AquaSuite > Restart & Repeat until both D5 and MPS400 have their unique Aquabus ID #
Connect to Splitter as pictured in diagram below? (These are just regular 4 Pin PWM cables right?)


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sexpot*
> 
> Thanks Gabriel, so from your instructions I would:
> 
> 
> Connect each device via USB first, assign an Aquabus ID# in AquaSuite > Restart & Repeat until both D5 and MPS400 have their unique Aquabus ID #
> Connect to Splitter as pictured in diagram below? (These are just regular 4 Pin PWM cables right?)


it should work if that splitter is fully wired ( I mean all fan headers with wires to the master). Sometimes you need a cold re-start of the aquaero to get the Aquabus connection to work. By that I mean to unplug the PSU from the outlet since the Aquaero keeps getting some current from the usb conenction even if psu is off.


----------



## MR-e

From what I understand, that Phobya splitter I linked does not connect the RPM pins to the main 4 pin header going to the Aquaero.

Should I change to one that connects all 4 pins, for example, a modmytoys splitter?


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sexpot*
> 
> From what I understand, that Phobya splitter I linked does not connect the RPM pins to the main 4 pin header going to the Aquaero.
> 
> Should I change to one that connects all 4 pins, for example, a modmytoys splitter?


I think so or just get the Aquacomputer splitter cable:

https://modmymods.com/aquacomputer-aquabus-y-cable-4-pin.html


----------



## MR-e

That's brilliant, I didn't even know such cable existed! Thank you Gabriel, +1 !!


----------



## mechanic2

Mystriss,
. . . . I'm using two NZXT internal USB 2 hubs. Be careful as the prices are all over the place. I found that buying directly from NZXT is a good buy and they pretty much have the best price.
Thanks,
rich!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mystriss*
> 
> Speaking of USB connections...
> 
> TLDR version: Has anyone done D5 pumps and/or flow sensor's direct wired to USB Type A to 5pin connector cables (a la https://modmymods.com/aquacomputer-usb-cable-a-plug-to-5-pin-female-connector-200-cm-53210.html ) off a USB hub?
> 
> My build has two separate loops (CPU+AquaEro block, and two GPUs) so I'm looking to connect two AquaComputer D5 aquabus/usb pumps, two of the aquabus/usb high flow meters (w/inline temp probes connected), and possibly a backup Swifttech MPC655-PWM pump as backup on the GPU loop. Which obviously isn't all going to fit on an Aquaero 5 LT aquabus. One 120mm push/pull rad and one 240mm push/pull rad, plus two "other" cooling fans [grand total of eight fans)
> 
> I'm feeling very meh on buying an Aquaero 6 XT lately as I have no need of, nor place to put, the display, which means pulling that (essentially making an AQ6 LT) at which point, as I understand it, the AQ5 LT becomes meaningless. It just feels like such a waste of $200 to slave the AQ5, so I'm kind of not wanting to buy AQ6 and just going with direct USB for the pumps or flow sensors that won't fit on the AQ5, however, I don't have enough onboard USB headers, nor do i have enough free USB type A's so I'd have to hub it.


----------



## mechanic2

Sexpot,
. . . . It sounds to me like the ModMyToys splitter is good for expanding the AquaBus and the Phoyba and the SilverStone splitters are good for fans. I know that I use the last two for fans and they work fine. I have tried the ModMyToys splitter. I use the AquaBus splitter cables from ModMyMods for expanding my AB. I also build custom fan and AB cables as needed.
Thanks,
rich!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sexpot*
> 
> From what I understand, that Phobya splitter I linked does not connect the RPM pins to the main 4 pin header going to the Aquaero.
> 
> Should I change to one that connects all 4 pins, for example, a modmytoys splitter?


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mystriss*
> 
> Speaking of USB connections...
> 
> TLDR version: Has anyone done D5 pumps and/or flow sensor's direct wired to USB Type A to 5pin connector cables (a la https://modmymods.com/aquacomputer-usb-cable-a-plug-to-5-pin-female-connector-200-cm-53210.html ) off a USB hub?
> 
> My build has two separate loops (CPU+AquaEro block, and two GPUs) so I'm looking to connect two AquaComputer D5 aquabus/usb pumps, two of the aquabus/usb high flow meters (w/inline temp probes connected), and possibly a backup Swifttech MPC655-PWM pump as backup on the GPU loop. Which obviously isn't all going to fit on an Aquaero 5 LT aquabus. One 120mm push/pull rad and one 240mm push/pull rad, plus two "other" cooling fans [grand total of eight fans)
> 
> I'm feeling very meh on buying an Aquaero 6 XT lately as I have no need of, nor place to put, the display, which means pulling that (essentially making an AQ6 LT) at which point, as I understand it, the AQ5 LT becomes meaningless. It just feels like such a waste of $200 to slave the AQ5, so I'm kind of not wanting to buy AQ6 and just going with direct USB for the pumps or flow sensors that won't fit on the AQ5, however, I don't have enough onboard USB headers, nor do i have enough free USB type A's so I'd have to hub it.


hubs shouldnt matter

hubs interfere in 2 ways

1 you take 1 port and share the bandwidth between everything connected to the hub

2 power - not all hubs are powered, i bet these are the ones that you have the most issues with - sometimes usb devices want more power then the port can give or the combination of usb devices do, or the hub does not supply enough power ( amperage )

all of the above ( in 2 ) is device specific and hub specific

now that said some really crappy hubs have all sorts of issues and are the " exception " to this rule

basically, all a hub does is say " i am a hub, you will have more then 1 device here " that said this is a blatant over simplification so ... please understand that


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mechanic2*
> 
> Mystriss,
> . . . . I'm using two NZXT internal USB 2 hubs. Be careful as the prices are all over the place. I found that buying directly from NZXT is a good buy and they pretty much have the best price.
> Thanks,
> rich!
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mystriss*
> 
> Speaking of USB connections...
> 
> TLDR version: Has anyone done D5 pumps and/or flow sensor's direct wired to USB Type A to 5pin connector cables (a la https://modmymods.com/aquacomputer-usb-cable-a-plug-to-5-pin-female-connector-200-cm-53210.html ) off a USB hub?
> 
> My build has two separate loops (CPU+AquaEro block, and two GPUs) so I'm looking to connect two AquaComputer D5 aquabus/usb pumps, two of the aquabus/usb high flow meters (w/inline temp probes connected), and possibly a backup Swifttech MPC655-PWM pump as backup on the GPU loop. Which obviously isn't all going to fit on an Aquaero 5 LT aquabus. One 120mm push/pull rad and one 240mm push/pull rad, plus two "other" cooling fans [grand total of eight fans)
> 
> I'm feeling very meh on buying an Aquaero 6 XT lately as I have no need of, nor place to put, the display, which means pulling that (essentially making an AQ6 LT) at which point, as I understand it, the AQ5 LT becomes meaningless. It just feels like such a waste of $200 to slave the AQ5, so I'm kind of not wanting to buy AQ6 and just going with direct USB for the pumps or flow sensors that won't fit on the AQ5, however, I don't have enough onboard USB headers, nor do i have enough free USB type A's so I'd have to hub it.
Click to expand...





the above is an AMAZING splitter !!!!!

however all that said.

you should not have any issue hooking up 2 pumps and 2 mps devices to the aquabus !!! ( total of 4 mps devices )

that has not changed and is true aq 5 or 6, lt, pro or xt !

if you do connect the pwm pump to channel 1 and the fans to 2-4, with proper cooling on the aquaero vrms you wont have any issues !!!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sexpot*
> 
> That's brilliant, I didn't even know such cable existed! Thank you Gabriel, +1 !!


yep, or you can make your own if you are able ( fan connectors )


----------



## mechanic2

Megaman,
. . . . These are true smart hubs. They have their own USB driver chip on board to insure that there are no conflicts. So they are a lot more than just a USB splitter. They use the latest 2.x protocols. I am very happy with them. I only had two internal USB 2 ports. I daisy chained one hub to the first hub and I then connected the first hub to my MB. I have a third hub that I may use when I add my second pump and reservoir.
Thanks,
rich!


----------



## Mega Man

i know, i have *5* of them, i love them and that is why i also recommended them


----------



## GTXJackBauer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> i know, i have *5* of them, i love them and that is why i also recommended them


You guys talking about the NZXT USB extender and what would be the best fan splitter that can register the right RPMs? I use different splitter cables for each rad in its own channel and while using all the same fans and having them set at the same PWM %, each channel registers a different RPM.

I also have x3 Swiftech 8-way splitters on the side. Wondering if those would be ok to use instead or will I need to purchase another PWM hub?


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mechanic2*
> 
> Megaman,
> . . . . These are true smart hubs. They have their own USB driver chip on board to insure that there are no conflicts. So they are a lot more than just a USB splitter. They use the latest 2.x protocols. I am very happy with them. I only had two internal USB 2 ports. I daisy chained one hub to the first hub and I then connected the first hub to my MB. I have a third hub that I may use when I add my second pump and reservoir.
> Thanks,
> rich!


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> i know, i have *5* of them, i love them and that is why i also recommended them


Ditto on the














for the NZXT USB port hubs . .

I lost count of how many overall, but have at least 1 on each of the 3 test benches, not to mention the ones in builds:



There's also a very rare Signalkuppe in this pic . . can you spot it?


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GTXJackBauer*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> i know, i have *5* of them, i love them and that is why i also recommended them
> 
> 
> 
> You guys talking about the NZXT USB extender and what would be the best fan splitter that can register the right RPMs? I use different splitter cables for each rad in its own channel and while using all the same fans and having them set at the same PWM %, each channel registers a different RPM.
> 
> I also have x3 Swiftech 8-way splitters on the side. Wondering if those would be ok to use instead or will I need to purchase another PWM hub?
Click to expand...

yes we are talking about the nzxt usb splitter

the swiftech splitter is fine, you will *NOT* get all 3 at the same rpm ! you will get them roughly close in most cases,

fans are rated at an rpm, but it is + or - ( generally ) 10%
so never will fans all read the exact same rpm, but they will be close ( generally )
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *mechanic2*
> 
> Megaman,
> . . . . These are true smart hubs. They have their own USB driver chip on board to insure that there are no conflicts. So they are a lot more than just a USB splitter. They use the latest 2.x protocols. I am very happy with them. I only had two internal USB 2 ports. I daisy chained one hub to the first hub and I then connected the first hub to my MB. I have a third hub that I may use when I add my second pump and reservoir.
> Thanks,
> rich!
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> i know, i have *5* of them, i love them and that is why i also recommended them
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Ditto on the
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> for the NZXT USB port hubs . .
> 
> I lost count of how many overall, but have at least 1 on each of the 3 test benches, not to mention the ones in builds:
> 
> There's also a very rare Signalkuppe in this pic . . can you spot it?
Click to expand...

yep i can


----------



## mechanic2

Jack,
. . . . I am using a SilverStone and a Phoyba. These are both 8 port splitters and the first fan connection provides the RPM signal. None of the RPM pins on the other connectors are connected. I like both of them. I have a second Phoyba that I will be using when I add another radiator. The way you can tell if only one RPM signal is connected is to look to see if one fan connector is marked differently from the other connectors. On the SilverStone the first fan connector has a raised area on the case that denotes that this is the only connector with an RPM signal. The Phoyba actually has a label that states that the RPM signal goes here. I hope that this helps.
Thanks,
rich!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GTXJackBauer*
> 
> You guys talking about the NZXT USB extender and what would be the best fan splitter that can register the right RPMs? I use different splitter cables for each rad in its own channel and while using all the same fans and having them set at the same PWM %, each channel registers a different RPM.
> 
> I also have x3 Swiftech 8-way splitters on the side. Wondering if those would be ok to use instead or will I need to purchase another PWM hub?


----------



## Costas

Love my NZXT USB2 Hub.... Works a treat...!

Pretty much a standard accessory for the Aquaero series of gear...


----------



## Mystriss

Oh awesome, I think I have one already even! It's... somewhere in the mod boxes. I'll have to go digging.


----------



## Mega Man

my biggest complaint --- NZXT does not make usb3 header hubs ! @xD3aDPooLx @NZXT_Dood


----------



## xD3aDPooLx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> my biggest complaint --- NZXT does not make usb3 header hubs ! @xD3aDPooLx @NZXT_Dood


I will pass the information along to the right team


----------



## Costas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> my biggest complaint --- NZXT does not make usb3 header hubs ! @xD3aDPooLx @NZXT_Dood


I wouldn't have thought that there is a large need for internal USB3 ports by ancillary devices as yet..?


----------



## Mega Man

Key word. Yet.

Either way. Plenty of mobos that dont have 2 usb 3 headers.... and more over. Epic customer service. When will nzxt get into the water cooling industry?


----------



## Mystriss

MB's absolutely do not cater to gadget hounds I can tell you that for sure. My MB has a good amount of USB ports; 3 onboard headers, 8 standard type A's, 4 USB 3's (2 front, 2 rear). Yet, I'm pretty much full - Mouse, Keyboard, Microscope, Microphone, external sound card, a dual purpose cable for my camera's and cellphone (Geomadic's TipExchange system, basically uses a 3.5mm jack to swap the various connectors for devices - beautiful,) webcam, then I have my Arduino's (2 uno's and a mega though I typically only need two ports at a time.) That is just the stuff I /leave/ plugged in, I have so many gadgets that I had to put in shelves behind my monitors to stow it all; bar code readers, ePens, drawing tablets, scales, a full size scientific microscope, my g-tar/violin amp connection, piano, etc, etc...

The Aquaero uses up one of my onboard headers, so I could /technically/ get away with two of my four devices (pumps and flow meters) on the Aquaero and two on the MB, but then I have no on board headers left and I kind of wanted to plug in the front USB's from my second case - which would leave me a header short. Coincidentally, that's why I'd bought the internal USB thing









Now that I've finally got my rig back together and I'm almost done putting my OS back together (upgraded to Windows 10) I'll have to dig the USB hub out


----------



## Gabrielzm

Guys and Gals

I just notice this:

https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-d5-pwm-g2-motor-12v-dc-pwm-pump-motor

identical PWM response to DDC and when PWM is not connected 100% duty cycle. Would that means this pump is now in corform with intel specs and will also work with the Aquaero just like the Aquacomputer PWM. Anyone have this new EK model and can confirm?


----------



## Costas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> when PWM is not connected 100% duty cycle. Would that means this pump is now in corform with intel specs and will also work with the Aquaero just like the Aquacomputer PWM.


Certainly does sound like it should work with the Aquaero especially since they state that it will work directly off motherboard PWM signals.

Probably just an upgraded 'Intel Spec' PWM variant like Aquacomputer's model.


----------



## Mega Man

In the EK thread they covered this they Diva modded it


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> In the EK thread they covered this they Diva modded it


Nice. That was my take, that would work with the aquaero, but I want to confirm (It certainly sound it like it). The aqua one seems to be a little be less expensive specially if vat is excluded directly in shop. But it is nice to known we have another option.


----------



## Mega Man

And their new fan controler..... if they ever released it (at this point imo Yea right )


----------



## Costas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> In the EK thread they covered this they Diva modded it


I hope she is receiving royalties...









I have a couple of older Alphacool D5's where I simply added DIVA's mod inside the D5 housing - so basically I end up with the same device.

Handy if you can solder etc but not so handy for those that cannot - The availability of these Intel/Aquaero compatible D5's is about time...


----------



## Mega Man

The non moded d5s have some bonuses


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> The non moded d5s have some bonuses


Would you mind expanding that thought a bit . . . .


----------



## Mega Man

When at (less then 8% iirc )0% pwm they shut off with out need of a relay


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> When at (less then 8% iirc )0% pwm they shut off with out need of a relay


'Ahhh, . .OK . .

Not much bonus for PC use, but a big one for some industrial / intrinsically safe requirements.

I was limiting my thought range to water cooling and was thinking maybe some would see the more expanded control range as an advantage.


----------



## jsutter71

Question about Aqua computer connectors for IP65 LED strips.
I am using IP65 LED lighting for my system. it looks like Aqua Computer does not sell these connectors under 70cm. I'm tired of using wire wraps to bundle up excessive cable. Has anyone ever modded or know anyone who's modded these types of cables? Or for that matter know of an alternative company which makes compatible connectors.


----------



## Mega Man

Are you talking connectors or led strips


----------



## jsutter71

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> Are you talking connectors or led strips


Yes the connectors for the LED strips
http://shop.aquacomputer.de/product_info.php?products_id=3276


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jsutter71*
> 
> Question about Aqua computer connectors for IP65 LED strips.
> I am using IP65 LED lighting for my system. it looks like Aqua Computer does not sell these connectors under 70cm. I'm tired of using wire wraps to bundle up excessive cable. Has anyone ever modded or know anyone who's modded these types of cables? Or for that matter know of an alternative company which makes compatible connectors.


Just cut the cable to the length you want . . . keep the 4 pin Farbwerk end and then solder the wires directly to the LED strip.

The connector that the strip slides into and clamps onto, is bulky and a pain to deal with, not to mention soldering the exact length you need is so much cleaner looking


----------



## pet1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> To use that flow meter, you'll have to have one of the Frequency Adapters that's made to go with it, . . . it will not plug in directly to the Aquaero:


I know it is a long time ago, but as far as I can see the flow input on the aqauero 5 looks like a 3 pin, so is it because of the input type that it ain't possible or?


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pet1*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> To use that flow meter, you'll have to have one of the Frequency Adapters that's made to go with it, . . . it will not plug in directly to the Aquaero:
> 
> 
> 
> I know it is a long time ago, but as far as I can see the flow input on the aqauero 5 looks like a 3 pin, so is it because of the input type that it ain't possible or?
Click to expand...

The frequency adapter is designed so that it converts the output pulse rate of the flow meter to a pulse rate that displays directly as milliliters per minute on a display that was designed to display fan rpm.

That way you actually have some kind of useful information based on established references.

You are free of course, to experiment and try anything you like.

The fact of asking in a manner that indicates an unwillingness to get the additional part, suggests that you probably aren't going to pay much attention anyway.

D.


----------



## MR-e

Hey guys, is it possible to connect my USB D5 and MPS400 to the Aquaero 6 via usb connection to assign the Aquabus ID without being connected to the main loop & powered on?


----------



## jsutter71

Question about this particular fan splitter, Since I have 29 fans being controlled by my Aquaero. 28 for rads, and 1 case fan, I am having a difficult time choosing a good splitter. I'm more than a little annoyed that few companies outside of Modmytoys makes anything that controls more then 8 fans. In my top compartment I'm using 16 fans alone. One option is this Thermaltake splitter which controls 10 fans. It would be nice if I could find a splitter that could control 16 fans, but unless I make one, I don't think that's going to happen. Anyways, has anyone ever used this one? It appears to run the same way as the Swiftech splitter where only one channel is receiving the RPM signal.

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811999340&nm_mc=KNC-GoogleAdwords-PC&cm_mmc=KNC-GoogleAdwords-PC-_-pla-_-Accessories+-+Case+%2F+Rackmount-_-N82E16811999340&gclid=Cj0KEQjw09C5BRDy972s6q2y4egBEiQA5_guv3Kfp5JgO2zN4RC9OJQss7IThkB0FaBFYmbNlJqJvH4aAsN78P8HAQ&gclsrc=aw.ds


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jsutter71*
> 
> Question about this particular fan splitter, Since I have 29 fans being controlled by my Aquaero. 28 for rads, and 1 case fan, I am having a difficult time choosing a good splitter. I'm more than a little annoyed that few companies outside of Modmytoys makes anything that controls more then 8 fans. In my top compartment I'm using 16 fans alone. One option is this Thermaltake splitter which controls 10 fans. It would be nice if I could find a splitter that could control 16 fans, but unless I make one, I don't think that's going to happen. Anyways, has anyone ever used this one? It appears to run the same way as the Swiftech splitter where only one channel is receiving the RPM signal.
> 
> http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811999340&nm_mc=KNC-GoogleAdwords-PC&cm_mmc=KNC-GoogleAdwords-PC-_-pla-_-Accessories+-+Case+%2F+Rackmount-_-N82E16811999340&gclid=Cj0KEQjw09C5BRDy972s6q2y4egBEiQA5_guv3Kfp5JgO2zN4RC9OJQss7IThkB0FaBFYmbNlJqJvH4aAsN78P8HAQ&gclsrc=aw.ds


you could just join any of them together to have the number you need.


----------



## Mega Man

tbh i dont ythink you will ever find many more then 8 ( past that 10 fan one ) .

people like us are rare ( with this many fans )


----------



## jsutter71

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> tbh i dont ythink you will ever find many more then 8 ( past that 10 fan one ) .
> 
> people like us are rare ( with this many fans )


Ok. Fine I'll try a different approach. Using this splitter, which pins would I need to snip in order to gain the desired results. Might as well MOD it to get what you need. I'm very impressed with the craftsmanship of these spiltters. The way they secure the PCB into a nice little mount speaks volumes. Most other companies just attach a piece of 2 sided velcro on the back of the PCB itself. I'M TALKING ABOUT YOU NZXT!!!!!


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> tbh i dont ythink you will ever find many more then 8 ( past that 10 fan one ) .
> 
> people like us are rare ( with this many fans )


not really that rare but this is not hard to do or a big deal really!!


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jsutter71*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> tbh i dont ythink you will ever find many more then 8 ( past that 10 fan one ) .
> 
> people like us are rare ( with this many fans )
> 
> 
> 
> Ok. Fine I'll try a different approach. Using this splitter, which pins would I need to snip in order to gain the desired results. Might as well MOD it to get what you need. I'm very impressed with the craftsmanship of these spiltters. The way they secure the PCB into a nice little mount speaks volumes. Most other companies just attach a piece of 2 sided velcro on the back of the PCB itself. I'M TALKING ABOUT YOU NZXT!!!!!
Click to expand...

all but 1 rpm pin, OR you can bend it out of the way OR you can cut the trace ( show us a pic and we can show you )


sense means senses the rpms !

i think the 2 jumpers are probably something you can snip to do the same thing, but i can not get him to send me any info on them ( the 2 wires next to every header ) iu would need a pic of the back to verify


----------



## jsutter71

Awesome...OH BTW..for anyone interested, one of my favorite places to spend money modDIY is offering free worldwide shipping to the next 1000 customers with coupon code FREE1000 Timne for me to order more cables!

http://www.moddiy.com/?utm_source=modDIY+Newsletter&utm_campaign=ea08a2aafb-1000_Free_Worldwide_Shipping_Giveaway&utm_medium=email&utm_term=0_3cbcd3220e-ea08a2aafb-351314209&mc_cid=ea08a2aafb&mc_eid=27c982afb5


----------



## jsutter71

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> all but 1 rpm pin, OR you can bend it out of the way OR you can cut the trace ( show us a pic and we can show you )
> 
> 
> sense means senses the rpms !
> 
> i think the 2 jumpers are probably something you can snip to do the same thing, but i can not get him to send me any info on them ( the 2 wires next to every header ) iu would need a pic of the back to verify


I need to take my front rad out to get mine out. Royal PITA since my system is fully wired and plumbed. But I think I'll take the lazy way out and just snip the pins. Couple questions. If I was to mod this thing to be like the other splitters that wouldn't need to be modded, would I leave the first channel as is? The channel that according to the other splitters would connect to the CPU cooler. Even though for me it would just be another rad fan. Also, the connector going to the Aquaero. Should I remove the power pins like the other splitters or just leave them alone? to allow it to receive power from the Aquaero.


----------



## Mega Man

you snip all but the connection to the aquaero and one fan ( any fan ) for a total of 2 ports not snipped

as far as power, you should def leave the ground alone, the 12v i dunno how they have it set up underneath ( aka the traces ) but it SHOULD NOT damage the aquaero i would wait till diva speaks up


----------



## jsutter71

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> you snip all but the connection to the aquaero and one fan ( any fan ) for a total of 2 ports not snipped
> 
> as far as power, you should def leave the ground alone, the 12v i dunno how they have it set up underneath ( aka the traces ) but it SHOULD NOT damage the aquaero i would wait till diva speaks up


Ok..to easy. Also if anyone is interested in another USB hub that looks pretty sexy to me, AND uses SATA power as apposed to the NZXT hub, then check this out. It looks like the Bitspower station on the back with the clear acrylic. Expensive though.



http://www.moddiy.com/products/Premium-All%252din%252d1-USB-%7B47%7D-SATA-%7B47%7D-Fan-Internal-Hub-Power-Splitter-PCB-Board.html

Yes. Had to get one for myself!!!! Free shipping and all.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jsutter71*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> tbh i dont ythink you will ever find many more then 8 ( past that 10 fan one ) .
> 
> people like us are rare ( with this many fans )
> 
> 
> 
> Ok. Fine I'll try a different approach. Using this splitter, which pins would I need to snip in order to gain the desired results. Might as well MOD it to get what you need. I'm very impressed with the craftsmanship of these spiltters. The way they secure the PCB into a nice little mount speaks volumes. Most other companies just attach a piece of 2 sided velcro on the back of the PCB itself. I'M TALKING ABOUT YOU NZXT!!!!!
Click to expand...

That splitter board is the easiest to make the cleanest mod to so it works just like the swiftech, and only has tach from fan 1.

And it can go back to the original config just as quick . . . .

You need to remove, or clip 2 small jumpers, and then connect one of the points from each one together.


----------



## Mega Man

I thought it might. But I bawdy could get them to send me wiring


----------



## jsutter71

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> That splitter board is the easiest to make the cleanest mod to so it works just like the swiftech, and only has tach from fan 1.
> 
> And it can go back to the original config just as quick . . . .
> 
> You need to remove, or clip 2 small jumpers, and then connect one of the points from each one together.


So If I understand you correctly I should remove the two pins I pointed to, and then solder together the other point I arrowed. What are you using to connect the two point is the picture? BTW my solder skills suck. I have tremors in my hands. Is their another alternative?


----------



## Mega Man

The silver is part of the board only the left most arrow


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jsutter71*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> That splitter board is the easiest to make the cleanest mod to so it works just like the swiftech, and only has tach from fan 1.
> 
> And it can go back to the original config just as quick . . . .
> 
> You need to remove, or clip 2 small jumpers, and then connect one of the points from each one together.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So If I understand you correctly I should remove the two pins I pointed to, and then solder together the other point I arrowed. What are you using to connect the two point is the picture? BTW my solder skills suck. I have tremors in my hands. Is their another alternative?
Click to expand...

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> The silver is part of the board only the left most arrow


To make it foolproof, . . . .

The white lines are the original short jumper positions where you need to remove the jumpers from, or clip them so they are no longer connecting the 2 holes they go thru.

The red circled part is a jumper that connects one hole from one of the original jumper positions to one hole of the other original jumper position.

Takes like 1 minute total with a soldering iron


----------



## ruffhi

I just purchased 2 x Aquacomputer D5 pump motor with PWM input and speed signal and I am looking for some input in what other things I should get.

I read with interest your comments re the NZXT USB hub as I had one of those that I ended up not being able to use. I still might not be able to use it as my pumps don't use USB.

Anyway, this is what I am thinking of getting ...

Aquacomputer aquaero 6 PRO USB fan-controller, graphic-LCD

Aquacomputer Passive heat sink for aquaero 6, black

Aquacomputer Temperatursensor inner/outer thread G1/4

Aquacomputer flow rate sensor mps flow 400, G1/4

Aquacomputer faceplate for aquaero 5 and 6 PRO Aluminium black

I'm not sure about the faceplate as I may end up running mine headless ... or not. Aqua tuning has free shipping for orders over $250. The above comes to $251.51.

My noob thoughts ...

I need to provide power to the pumps and the aquaero ... I can mod up a molex connector for that. Any issue running Aquaero + 2 x pumps off one output connector (from the PSU)?

I need to get the pumps talking to the aquaero (fan style connector?). I need to get the flow rate sensor talking to the aquaero (not exactly sure here ... so help? suggestions?).

I am thinking of putting one temp sensor right after my pumps and right before my 2 radiators (this should be the hottest water I have). The other sensor will go right after my 2 radiators and before it flows into any CPU / GPU blocks (should be the coolest water I have).

Is there anything else that I am missing?

Now ... I have a question about this ...

I am thinking that you need to a) power the pump, b) send PWM info to the pump to control the speed ... and that is about it.

Below we have two connections to each pump - one via a fan connector (left hub) and one via a USB2 connector (right hub). Am I right in thinking that the left connector is power only and the PWM stuff is organized via the right connector? Couldn't the fan connector do the PWM too?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Costas*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## Mega Man

the left hub is for aquabus not fan headers ( think of it as the aquaeros network )

imo assuming you want 2 pumps in the same loop ?

i would either use a cable like this or make one http://www.swiftech.com/PWMsplittercable.aspx

and connect the pumps to one header, that allows both pumps to be controlled from same header, if you want to monitor the second pump speed then you can from another header or a mobo fan header as the second plug just monitors speed

as to the flow sensor, you have a few easy options

http://shop.aquacomputer.de/product_info.php?language=en&products_id=2900

it comes with a 3 pin cable and a usb cable, plug the usb into the usb on your mobo ( use the same header the aquaero is on ) and the 3 pin from aquabus on the flow sensor to aquabus on the aquaero

any more questions ?

with what you have you will need 1usb header on your mobo imo ( unless you want it ) you dont need the usb hub !


----------



## ruffhi

Thx Mega Man.

Re left hub ... I'm saying fan connector because I expect it uses fan connections (but no fans are actually used). You mentioned 'network' so that implies data flow and now power flow?

My 2 pumps will be in series, same loop with output from pump #1 going straight into input for pump #2.

I have 2 radiators with push fans and I am fine with running them both from the same aquaera header (or different). I know that I have four (4) aquaero side headers to play with so it could be ...

#1 fan / rad #1
#2 fan / rad #2
#3 pump #1
#4 pump #2

... or ...

#1 fan / rad #1 & #2
#2 pump #1 & #2
#3 & #4 spare


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ruffhi*
> 
> I just purchased 2 x Aquacomputer D5 pump motor with PWM input and speed signal and I am looking for some input in what other things I should get.
> 
> I read with interest your comments re the NZXT USB hub as I had one of those that I ended up not being able to use. I still might not be able to use it as my pumps don't use USB.
> 
> Anyway, this is what I am thinking of getting ...
> 
> Aquacomputer aquaero 6 PRO USB fan-controller, graphic-LCD
> 
> Aquacomputer Passive heat sink for aquaero 6, black
> 
> Aquacomputer Temperatursensor inner/outer thread G1/4
> 
> Aquacomputer flow rate sensor mps flow 400, G1/4
> 
> Aquacomputer faceplate for aquaero 5 and 6 PRO Aluminium black
> 
> I'm not sure about the faceplate as I may end up running mine headless ... or not. Aqua tuning has free shipping for orders over $250. The above comes to $251.51.
> 
> My noob thoughts ...
> 
> I need to provide power to the pumps and the aquaero ... I can mod up a molex connector for that. Any issue running Aquaero + 2 x pumps off one output connector (from the PSU)?
> 
> *No problem.*
> 
> I need to get the pumps talking to the aquaero (fan style connector?). I need to get the flow rate sensor talking to the aquaero (not exactly sure here ... so help? suggestions?).
> 
> *The PWM model you got is connect to the Aquaero via fan header set to PWM mode in Aquaero yes. As Megaman said usb and aquabus connected to the Aquaero. Set priority to Aquabus after the MPS show up on Aquaero/Aquasuite*
> 
> I am thinking of putting one temp sensor right after my pumps and right before my 2 radiators (this should be the hottest water I have). The other sensor will go right after my 2 radiators and before it flows into any CPU / GPU blocks (should be the coolest water I have).
> 
> *Water is flowing so fast that the whole loop would stabilize in temperature. In fact, with the accuracy of these temp sensors we have available you will not be able to make head or tails from your readings since where you expect the coolest water temp (after the rad) might as well be the hottest due to differences in calibration. Hell, I even put in the in and out of a rad one time and the in temp was cooler that the out temp. You might (and should) calibrate the temp sensor first using the Aquasuite offset function for each sensor.*
> 
> Is there anything else that I am missing?
> 
> *No but just for your info, any of these water temp sensors should work (Aquacomputer, Bits, Barrow, XSPC and so on)*
> 
> Now ... I have a question about this ...
> 
> I am thinking that you need to a) power the pump, b) send PWM info to the pump to control the speed ... and that is about it.
> 
> Below we have two connections to each pump - one via a fan connector (left hub) and one via a USB2 connector (right hub). Am I right in thinking that the left connector is power only and the PWM stuff is organized via the right connector? Couldn't the fan connector do the PWM too?


replying in bold above your points.


----------



## Costas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ruffhi*
> 
> Thx Mega Man.
> 
> Re left hub ... I'm saying fan connector because I expect it uses fan connections (but no fans are actually used). You mentioned 'network' so that implies data flow and now power flow?


Yeh that left 4 pin hub is simply a 4 pin PWM fan header board from Mod my Toys.

The Aquaero uses a 4 wire data bus for its Aquabus connection which allows you to common up 4 MPS devices all on the same bus. This is how they can all talk to the Aquaero unit directly (not via Aquasuite software). It uses the same connectors as your typical 4 pin fan does however it is important to note that they are not interchangeable as the Aquaero's Aquabus pinout has nothing in common with PWM fans except that it uses 4 wires and the same connectors.

So while you can use 4 pin style header boards as I have done - don't go plugging in any fans into it...









Power for my pumps is via Molex style power connector which is not shown in the pic.

The NZXT USB hub is not really a necessity but for me more so a handy feature in that I can modify some variables which are not available via the 4 Pin MPS/Aquabus connection.


----------



## Dagamus NM

Apologies up front, I searched but getting the info needed is proving difficult.

What is the preferred pwm splitter for 6 headers? I don't need 8, but want one splitter per 420mm radiator. I need to pick up a dozen of these.


----------



## ruffhi

Thx Gabrielzm, Costas for your posts ... very useful and informative.

Just so I test my new knowledge ... if I got a (say) ModMyToys 4-Pin PWM Power Distribution PCB - 6-Way Block then I could plug my 2 pumps, 2 flow meters and 2 sets of fans from 2 radiators into this and plug the other end into 1 Aquaero header as long as I put them (pumps, flow meters, fans) all on different channels ... is that right?

@Costas ... so ... two data hubs with the USB one being able to do more than the fan connector based version. And you could, if you wanted to, run everything from the USB hub and not actually have the fan connector version at all. Right?


----------



## mechanic2

JSutter,
. . . . Why don't you just daisy chain these Hubs together. That is what they are is fan Hubs. Yes, we also call them splitters. When you are looking at this Hub with the end that has the single four pin connector facing you you will see a connector on the left side that has a flat and smooth surface on the case. That is the fan connector that has a RPM signal connected. The other seven do not. The four pin connector on the end will go to the AE. The second hub will go from this four pin connector to the connection on the first Hub that has the RPM signal. Connect a fan to the connector with the RPM signal to the second Hub. Now you can connect the rest of the fans to which ever Hub that you want to. No cutting and no soldering. I hope that this helps. This will give a total of up to 19 fans on control port.
Thanks,
rich!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jsutter71*
> 
> Question about this particular fan splitter, Since I have 29 fans being controlled by my Aquaero. 28 for rads, and 1 case fan, I am having a difficult time choosing a good splitter. I'm more than a little annoyed that few companies outside of Modmytoys makes anything that controls more then 8 fans. In my top compartment I'm using 16 fans alone. One option is this Thermaltake splitter which controls 10 fans. It would be nice if I could find a splitter that could control 16 fans, but unless I make one, I don't think that's going to happen. Anyways, has anyone ever used this one? It appears to run the same way as the Swiftech splitter where only one channel is receiving the RPM signal.
> 
> http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811999340&nm_mc=KNC-GoogleAdwords-PC&cm_mmc=KNC-GoogleAdwords-PC-_-pla-_-Accessories+-+Case+%2F+Rackmount-_-N82E16811999340&gclid=Cj0KEQjw09C5BRDy972s6q2y4egBEiQA5_guv3Kfp5JgO2zN4RC9OJQss7IThkB0FaBFYmbNlJqJvH4aAsN78P8HAQ&gclsrc=aw.ds


----------



## jsutter71

Ok...Now I get it.....I did a quick test mod on a spare Modmytoys splitter. For simplicity I just went and snipped the third pin. When I tested it in Aquasuite, prior to the mod I was able to control the fan speed with no issues.I almost thought I should just leave it alone. If I can control the fan speed, and all the fans react the same when I tweak the power then that should be good enough. Right? Well not so fast. When I ran the test the second time in Aquasuite WITH the mod, I was able to not only control the fan speed in the same manor as before, but I was also able to see the rotation speed. For me, that is the issue. So, to break it down Barney style. With the mod, ABLE to get RPM readout. No mod, NOT ABLE to get RPM readout.

OK, now for a completely different issue.... I'm just full of issues today

This was the first time I installed the Aquasuite software and connected a USB to the Aquaero. I went ahead and flashed to newest firmware. No issues. Then I did the same thing to my Poweradjust 3. This time the software stated that their was no firmware upgrade needed. Then, As I did before, I connected the Farbwerk through USB, but nothing. I'm not seeing it in Aquasuite the same way I am seeing the poweradjust. I tried it with my second Farbwerk, and again I'm not seeing that one either. SO, at that point I went ahead and connected the farbwerks, and the poweradjust through Aquabus connections. Still not seeing the Farbwerk. Now, when I power up my PC the Farbwerks have no problems lighting their LED strips, so I know they are working. So, Can anyone shed some please shed some light on what is happening here.


----------



## mechanic2

JSutter,
. . . . I'm glad that you got the splitter issues sorted out. With the Farbwerk, I am wondering if you have either connected the USB cable backwards or if the connector is off by one pin. That is what will give you the problem that you are seeing. Also you will have to get into the Farbwerk by way of USB and set it up to be used by the AB. If you connect more than one FW to the AB you will have to change the Address of the additional FWs by way of the USB before you can use them on the AB. I hope that this helps. One more thing that is important is to only connect them with the system turned off.
Thanks,
rich!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jsutter71*
> 
> Ok..
> 
> This was the first time I installed the Aquasuite software and connected a USB to the Aquaero. I went ahead and flashed to newest firmware. No issues. Then I did the same thing to my Poweradjust 3. This time the software stated that their was no firmware upgrade needed. Then, As I did before, I connected the Farbwerk through USB, but nothing. I'm not seeing it in Aquasuite the same way I am seeing the poweradjust. I tried it with my second Farbwerk, and again I'm not seeing that one either. SO, at that point I went ahead and connected the farbwerks, and the poweradjust through Aquabus connections. Still not seeing the Farbwerk. Now, when I power up my PC the Farbwerks have no problems lighting their LED strips, so I know they are working. So, Can anyone shed some please shed some light on what is happening here.


----------



## Mega Man

i need more info, you should just connect them all to usb and aquabus if possible

when you connect them via usb nothing shows up ?

you have verified you connected it properly correct ?
you will have to set the farbwerk to aquabus priority before that will work via aquabus,

what version of aqusuite are you running ?


----------



## mechanic2

Megaman and et al,
. . . . I have a few questions about overclocking. How do I find out if my E5-2603s can be overclocked? Also what about how much can I over clock them? What about my FirePro W5000? Same questions. Ah, another senior moment. I had some more questions but I can't remember them right now. Darlene, do you have these moments? I just remembered one of them. Oops, it is gone again. Argh! Oh well, it will come back.









GOD Bless,
rich!


----------



## Mega Man

I an 99 percent sure no they can not be (you can oc via Blk but you won't get far )


----------



## mechanic2

Megaman,
. . . . I have never done any over clocking. How do I get help with my AsRock EP2C612WS MB and the E5-2603s? What does Blk mean? I have never heard that term before. Remember my cat, Stripes? I wanted to tell everyone about her Blue and Green eyes. If there was Red in there we could say that she has RGB eyes.







She has also learned that if she hears music coming from the bathroom it is play time. She comes a running and wants to play while I am busy.
GOD Bless,
rich!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> I an 99 percent sure no they can not be (you can oc via Blk but you won't get far )


----------



## Mega Man

the multiplier is locked on ALL xeons but 3 iirc ( on socket 2011 ) and NO e5s afaik !

blk - too complicated for me to describe here i think you will have to google it "blk overclocking"


----------



## mechanic2

Megaman,
. . . . I found it but it is bclk. The base clock which controls everything else. I also googled using AsRock EP2C612WS. That really confuses me. Could you please look in to this for me and let me know what you think?
Thanks,
rich!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> the multiplier is locked on ALL xeons but 3 iirc ( on socket 2011 ) and NO e5s afaik !
> 
> blk - too complicated for me to describe here i think you will have to google it "blk overclocking"


----------



## Costas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ruffhi*
> 
> Thx Gabrielzm, Costas for your posts ... very useful and informative.
> 
> Just so I test my new knowledge ... if I got a (say) ModMyToys 4-Pin PWM Power Distribution PCB - 6-Way Block then I could plug my 2 pumps, 2 flow meters and 2 sets of fans from 2 radiators into this and plug the other end into 1 Aquaero header as long as I put them (pumps, flow meters, fans) all on different channels ... is that right?


No No No...









You cannot combine fans and the MPS devices [Pumps & flowmeters] onto the one splitter board...! The MPS devices use Aquabus protocol/signalling as their communication to the Aquaero which has nothing to do with your typical PWM fan power + control signals.

You can common up to 4 Aquabus devices onto the same splitter board and *then run the one 4 wire cable back to the Aquabus Hi-Speed port*. Then the Aquaero can talk to those devices all along that one connection if that makes sense. These devices DO NOT connect to any of the fan headers on the Aquaero they must be connected to the Aquabus Hi-Speed port.

Your fans must be connected totally separately via their own splitters etc you cannot connect them with your MPS devices on the Aquabus connection as they operate totally differently.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ruffhi*
> 
> @Costas ... so ... two data hubs with the USB one being able to do more than the fan connector based version. And you could, if you wanted to, run everything from the USB hub and not actually have the fan connector version at all. Right?


The USB connection is really only handy for initial setup of each MPS device's unique address (can only do this via USB connection) however once their address is set you do not necessarily require a USB connection - As most features are available from the Aquabus 4 wire connection.

The USB connection is also handy if playing around with some calibration parameters of their flowmeters as this can only be carried out over the USB connection and not Aquabus. This is why I use both types of connection USB & 4 Wire-Aquabus in my PC.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mechanic2*
> 
> Megaman,
> . . . . I found it but it is bclk. The base clock which controls everything else. I also googled using AsRock EP2C612WS. That really confuses me. Could you please look in to this for me and let me know what you think?
> Thanks,
> rich!
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> the multiplier is locked on ALL xeons but 3 iirc ( on socket 2011 ) and NO e5s afaik !
> 
> blk - too complicated for me to describe here i think you will have to google it "blk overclocking"
Click to expand...

i really wouldnt know where to start, all i hear about these gen cpus is NOT to blk oc
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Costas*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *ruffhi*
> 
> Thx Gabrielzm, Costas for your posts ... very useful and informative.
> 
> Just so I test my new knowledge ... if I got a (say) ModMyToys 4-Pin PWM Power Distribution PCB - 6-Way Block then I could plug my 2 pumps, 2 flow meters and 2 sets of fans from 2 radiators into this and plug the other end into 1 Aquaero header as long as I put them (pumps, flow meters, fans) all on different channels ... is that right?
> 
> 
> 
> No No No...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You cannot combine fans and the MPS devices [Pumps & flowmeters] onto the one splitter board...! The MPS devices use Aquabus protocol/signalling as their communication to the Aquaero which has nothing to do with your typical PWM fan power + control signals.
> 
> You can common up to 4 Aquabus devices onto the same splitter board and *then run the one 4 wire cable back to the Aquabus Hi-Speed port*. Then the Aquaero can talk to those devices all along that one connection if that makes sense. These devices DO NOT connect to any of the fan headers on the Aquaero they must be connected to the Aquabus Hi-Speed port.
> 
> Your fans must be connected totally separately via their own splitters etc you cannot connect them with your MPS devices on the Aquabus connection as they operate totally differently.
Click to expand...

huh? i never heard of a 4 device max on any aquabus stuffs any linkys ?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Costas*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *ruffhi*
> 
> @Costas ... so ... two data hubs with the USB one being able to do more than the fan connector based version. And you could, if you wanted to, run everything from the USB hub and not actually have the fan connector version at all. Right?
> 
> 
> 
> The USB connection is really only handy for initial setup of each MPS device's unique address (can only do this via USB connection) however once their address is set you do not necessarily require a USB connection - As most features are available from the Aquabus 4 wire connection.
> 
> The USB connection is also handy if playing around with some calibration parameters of their flowmeters as this can only be carried out over the USB connection and not Aquabus. This is why I use both types of connection USB & 4 Wire-Aquabus in my PC.
Click to expand...

i prefer it ( as i am excessively lazy ! ) to update firmwares as needed


----------



## Costas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> huh? i never heard of a 4 device max on any aquabus stuffs any linkys ?


You are limited to only 4 Aquabus addresses (12, 13, 14 and 15) for their pumps and flowmeters - effectively meaning only 4 of those devices can be used with unique addresses.


----------



## ruffhi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Costas*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *ruffhi*
> 
> Just so I test my new knowledge ... if I got a (say) ModMyToys 4-Pin PWM Power Distribution PCB - 6-Way Block then I could plug my 2 pumps, 2 flow meters and 2 sets of fans from 2 radiators into this and plug the other end into 1 Aquaero header as long as I put them (pumps, flow meters, fans) all on different channels ... is that right?
> 
> 
> 
> No No No...
Click to expand...

Duh







Of course ... only MPS devices. Got ya.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Costas*
> The USB connection is really only handy for initial setup of each MPS device's unique address (can only do this via USB connection) however once their address is set you do not necessarily require a USB connection - As most features are available from the Aquabus 4 wire connection.


Thanks for this info. I didn't get the USB pumps. I got 2 with the PWM input.

So, am I right in thinking that my choices with these in-series pumps are one of the following ...

run one off a aquaero 6 header and slave the other pump to the first pump

run each off a separate aquaero 6 header

run one of a aquaero 6 header and one off the info from the Aquabus Hi-Speed port (but using the default Aquabus address)

Further ... if I want to report on the individual RPM of the pumps (not necessarily to know their speed, but to know that they both running), then I can't use the 'slave' method.

Also, the last option will involve connecting my flow sensor (mps flow 400) via USB and changing its address to something else ... then connecting it and the 'other' / '2nd' pump to the hi-speed port.

Fans get their own aquaero header.

What I will probably end up doing is using a header each for the pumps and a header for the pedistal fans and attaching the flow meter to the hi-speed port.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ruffhi*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Costas*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *ruffhi*
> 
> Just so I test my new knowledge ... if I got a (say) ModMyToys 4-Pin PWM Power Distribution PCB - 6-Way Block then I could plug my 2 pumps, 2 flow meters and 2 sets of fans from 2 radiators into this and plug the other end into 1 Aquaero header as long as I put them (pumps, flow meters, fans) all on different channels ... is that right?
> 
> 
> 
> No No No...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Duh
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Of course ... only MPS devices. Got ya.
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Costas*
> The USB connection is really only handy for initial setup of each MPS device's unique address (can only do this via USB connection) however once their address is set you do not necessarily require a USB connection - As most features are available from the Aquabus 4 wire connection.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Thanks for this info. I didn't get the USB pumps. I got 2 with the PWM input.
> 
> So, am I right in thinking that my choices with these in-series pumps are one of the following ...
> 
> run one off a aquaero 6 header and slave the other pump to the first pump
> 
> run each off a separate aquaero 6 header
> 
> run one of a aquaero 6 header and *one off the info from the Aquabus Hi-Speed port (but using the default Aquabus address)
> *
> 
> *This is exactly what you can NOT do with your PWM pump. . . It's Not an MPS device . . .
> 
> You can't run a PWM pump from the Aquabus port* . . . . Only their USB / Aquabus pump can connect to the Aquabus port.
> 
> Your first option of splitting the PWM wire from 1 fan channel to go to both pumps is the one to go with, as it insures both pumps run at the same, or as close as reasonably expectable, speed,.
> 
> Have one of the pumps report its rpm to that fan channel, and have the other pump's tach wire to the mobo CPU header so the mobo has a CPU fan input, which you could use as a safety alarm / shutdown if you wanted.
> 
> Further ... if I want to report on the individual RPM of the pumps (not necessarily to know their speed, but to know that they both running), then I can't use the 'slave' method.
> 
> Yes you can, with one pump to the control header's tach input, and the other pump to the mobo CPU fan header, you'll know the rpm of both pumps.
> 
> Also, the last option will involve connecting my flow sensor (mps flow 400) via USB and changing its address to something else ... then connecting it and the 'other' / '2nd' pump to the hi-speed port.
> 
> Fans get their own aquaero header.
> 
> What I will probably end up doing is using a header each for the pumps and a header for the pedistal fans and attaching the flow meter to the hi-speed port.
Click to expand...


----------



## InfoSeeker

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> huh? i never heard of a 4 device max on any aquabus stuffs any linkys ?
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Costas*
> 
> You are limited to only 4 Aquabus addresses (12, 13, 14 and 15) for their pumps and flowmeters - effectively meaning only 4 of those devices can be used with unique addresses.
Click to expand...

This table in section 25 of the aquaero manual lists the available aquabus addresses, with four (12, 13, 14, 15) reserved for MPS devices, hence the four MPS devices limit.


----------



## newb here

I was thinking of getting an Aquaero 6 for my next build and I've been trying to research over the past few days if the setup that i want would work but its been a little difficult to find what im looking for so im sorry if this has been answered before, for the life of me i couldn't find it.

I plan on doing a duel pump system with 3 Rad(25 fans total) and flow and temp sensors on each loop.

I'd like to have each Rad(3 groups of fans), and 5 case fans(Grouped together) using all four of the fan outputs on the Aquaero 6.

I also plan on connecting the PWM pumps to MoBo as I found out Aquaero only likes there pumps on the Aquaero 6, and having the MoBo monitor the pump just in case on dies it will shut down the PC.

My question is can i connect two Aquacomputer Flow Meter Sensor (53129) to the Aquaero 6 while using all the fan slots for Rad and Case fan control.

Also if there is a better way of connecting everything that i want I'm all ears

Thanks.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *newb here*
> 
> I was thinking of getting an Aquaero 6 for my next build and I've been trying to research over the past few days if the setup that i want would work but its been a little difficult to find what im looking for so im sorry if this has been answered before, for the life of me i couldn't find it.
> 
> I plan on doing a duel pump system with 3 Rad(25 fans total) and flow and temp sensors on each loop.
> 
> I'd like to have each Rad(3 groups of fans), and 5 case fans(Grouped together) using all four of the fan outputs on the Aquaero 6.
> 
> I also plan on connecting the PWM pumps to MoBo as I found out Aquaero only likes there pumps on the Aquaero 6, and having the MoBo monitor the pump just in case on dies it will shut down the PC.
> 
> My question is can i connect two Aquacomputer Flow Meter Sensor (53129) to the Aquaero 6 while using all the fan slots for Rad and Case fan control.
> 
> Also if there is a better way of connecting everything that i want I'm all ears
> 
> Thanks.


Use the AC USB / Aquabus pumps, and be able to control and monitor everything thru the A6 / Aquasuite.

With that many fans, you'll want to go with PWM ones, unless they have very low current draw. Sounds like you're going to be using 480s/560s with 8 fans each.


----------



## newb here

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Use the AC USB / Aquabus pumps, and be able to control and monitor everything thru the A6 / Aquasuite.
> 
> With that many fans, you'll want to go with PWM ones, unless they have very low current draw. Sounds like you're going to be using 480s/560s with 8 fans each.


Yes i will be getting all PWM fans with the swiftech 8 Way PWM Splitter.

Is there a guide to see how that all connects to the Aquaero 6? I've looked at the manual but maybe it wasn't clear to me on how to connect two pumps and two flow/temp sensors.

But if you say it will all work together then i trust you, I figure things out a lot better when i have them in my hand and i can actually mess around with them vs looking them up on paper.


----------



## Newtocooling

If I use voltage controlled Darkside GT's on a powered Swiftech Splitter, how does the 6XT control these fans if voltage is being supplied by sata power? Do I set that fan channel to voltage control or RPM control?


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Newtocooling*
> 
> If I use voltage controlled Darkside GT's on a powered Swiftech Splitter, how does the 6XT control these fans if voltage is being supplied by sata power? Do I set that fan channel to voltage control or RPM control?


You can't control the speed of voltage controlled fans when they are powered from a swiftech PWM splitter, unless you make a custom cable that powers the splitter from the fan channel on the A6 instead of having it powered from the PSU.

The swiftech splitter says it's for PWM fans, not 3 pin.

Easier than making a custom cable, would be to just get the right 3 pin style splitter with a female to female cable to connect it to an A6 fan channel.

D.


----------



## Newtocooling

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> You can't control the speed of voltage controlled fans when they are powered from a swiftech PWM splitter, unless you make a custom cable that powers the splitter from the fan channel on the A6 instead of having it powered from the PSU.
> 
> The swiftech splitter says it's for PWM fans, not 3 pin.
> 
> Easier than making a custom cable, would be to just get the right 3 pin style splitter with a female to female cable to connect it to an A6 fan channel.
> 
> D.


Okay I'll just go back to the modmytoys version then, and clip the pins. I may switch to the Darkside PWM versions, it just seems like I won't benefit much from the non PWM versions.


----------



## Newtocooling

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> To make it foolproof, . . . .
> 
> The white lines are the original short jumper positions where you need to remove the jumpers from, or clip them so they are no longer connecting the 2 holes they go thru.
> 
> The red circled part is a jumper that connects one hole from one of the original jumper positions to one hole of the other original jumper position.
> 
> Takes like 1 minute total with a soldering iron


If I don't have a soldering iron, can I just snip the wires with the white lines, to get an accurate RPM signal on 3 pin fans?


----------



## newb here

I just want to be 100% sure before i buy the Aquaero 6 with all the bells a whistles.

I would able to connect:

2x AC pumps with an aquabus Y-connector 4 pins to the high aquabus connector and be able to control both pump?

Have 4 different PWM fan Channels using all four fan connectors.

2x Aqua Computer Flow sensor high flow USB one to each PWM connector.

All at the same time?

Sorry if this is a redundant question, like i said i just wanna be certain and its not cheap to do this but from what I've seen and heard its worth it.

Thanks.


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *newb here*
> 
> I just want to be 100% sure before i buy the Aquaero 6 with all the bells a whistles.
> 
> I would able to connect:
> 
> 2x AC pumps with an aquabus Y-connector 4 pins to the high aquabus connector and be able to control both pump?
> 
> Have 4 different PWM fan Channels using all four fan connectors.
> 
> 2x Aqua Computer Flow sensor high flow USB one to each PWM connector.
> 
> All at the same time?
> 
> Sorry if this is a redundant question, like i said i just wanna be certain and its not cheap to do this but from what I've seen and heard its worth it.
> 
> Thanks.


you would not hook the Aqua Computer Flow sensor high flow USB to the PMW connector they can be hooked up either USB or Aquabus.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *newb here*
> 
> I just want to be 100% sure before i buy the Aquaero 6 with all the bells a whistles.
> 
> I would able to connect:
> 
> 2x AC pumps with an aquabus Y-connector 4 pins to the high aquabus connector and be able to control both pump?
> 
> Have 4 different PWM fan Channels using all four fan connectors.
> 
> 2x Aqua Computer Flow sensor high flow USB one to each PWM connector.
> 
> All at the same time?
> 
> Sorry if this is a redundant question, like i said i just wanna be certain and its not cheap to do this but from what I've seen and heard its worth it.
> 
> Thanks.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *newb here*
> 
> I just want to be 100% sure before i buy the Aquaero 6 with all the bells a whistles.
> 
> I would able to connect:
> 
> 2x AC pumps with an aquabus Y-connector 4 pins to the high aquabus connector and be able to control both pump?
> 
> Have 4 different PWM fan Channels using all four fan connectors.
> 
> *2x Aqua Computer Flow sensor high flow USB one to each PWM connector.*
> 
> All at the same time?
> 
> Sorry if this is a redundant question, like i said i just wanna be certain and its not cheap to do this but from what I've seen and heard its worth it.
> 
> Thanks.
> 
> 
> 
> you would not hook the Aqua Computer Flow sensor high flow USB to the PMW connector they can be hooked up either USB or Aquabus.
Click to expand...

Having those 2 headers next to the fan headers and labeled PWM is confusing the bloody hell out of everyone new to the Aquaero . . . Wish they had better named them . .

Anyway, . . .

Those headers are PWM modulated 12V outputs for controlling the intensity of a connected led strip for example.

And as Scott said, you don't connect your flow sensor there.

They play no part in any connection to any of the usual AquaComputer devices like pumps, flow meters, power-adjust modules or Farbwerks, which are all able to use the Aquabus High header.

To put your 4 devices on the Aquabus header, you'll need a 4-way 4-pin (PWM fan type) splitter with all 4 lines connected to all the headers so you can plug up each device to one of the splitter headers, with a 4 pin female to female cable from the splitter to the A6.

The Modmytoys splitters work perfectly for this purpose, right out of the box.

The A6 will do what you're asking, no problem . . . .

Just that the setup and learning curve can be a serious pain in the a$$ bit of a challenge.

Darlene


----------



## jsutter71

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> i need more info, you should just connect them all to usb and aquabus if possible
> 
> when you connect them via usb nothing shows up ?
> 
> you have verified you connected it properly correct ?
> you will have to set the farbwerk to aquabus priority before that will work via aquabus,
> 
> what version of aqusuite are you running ?


Sorry to took so long to respond. I've been pulled away by the family so I haven't had the chance to double check my work. Hopefully today or tomorrow I'll be able to double check my connections. It's possible the USB connections were not properly connected.


----------



## mechanic2

Hello all,
. . . . Yes, the MPS devices only have 4 AB addresses but you are not limited to just 4 devices on the AB. The PAs have their own addresses as do the Farbwerks. Here is a cool way to get around the AB address limitations. Use up the addresses on the AE AB. Then connect your devices so as to use the USB bus. You could also add an AE5LT but don't slave it. It will show up in the AS as its own device. Now you have a complete set of new AB addresses. If you need additional PW channels you could get an AE6Pro and remove the display. You now have an AE6LT. Where the AE5 only has one PWM 4 pin channel and the other channels are voltage controlled. The 6 will give you the additional 4 pin channels. I have learned all of this in the last two months. I hope that it helps.
Thanks,
rich!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *InfoSeeker*
> 
> This table in section 25 of the aquaero manual lists the available aquabus addresses, with four (12, 13, 14, 15) reserved for MPS devices, hence the four MPS devices limit.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Costas*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> huh? i never heard of a 4 device max on any aquabus stuffs any linkys ?
> 
> 
> 
> You are limited to only 4 Aquabus addresses (12, 13, 14 and 15) for their pumps and flowmeters - effectively meaning only 4 of those devices can be used with unique addresses.
Click to expand...

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *InfoSeeker*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> huh? i never heard of a 4 device max on any aquabus stuffs any linkys ?
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Costas*
> 
> You are limited to only 4 Aquabus addresses (12, 13, 14 and 15) for their pumps and flowmeters - effectively meaning only 4 of those devices can be used with unique addresses.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> This table in section 25 of the aquaero manual lists the available aquabus addresses, with four (12, 13, 14, 15) reserved for MPS devices, hence the four MPS devices limit.
Click to expand...

Ok now I seer the miscommunication. And for new people just to verify

You can connect an unlimited amount of aquabus stuff together with the limit of the above linked document

MPS devices are limited to 4
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *newb here*
> 
> I was thinking of getting an Aquaero 6 for my next build and I've been trying to research over the past few days if the setup that i want would work but its been a little difficult to find what im looking for so im sorry if this has been answered before, for the life of me i couldn't find it.
> 
> I plan on doing a duel pump system with 3 Rad(25 fans total) and flow and temp sensors on each loop.
> 
> I'd like to have each Rad(3 groups of fans), and 5 case fans(Grouped together) using all four of the fan outputs on the Aquaero 6.
> 
> I also plan on connecting the PWM pumps to MoBo as I found out Aquaero only likes there pumps on the Aquaero 6, and having the MoBo monitor the pump just in case on dies it will shut down the PC.
> 
> My question is can i connect two Aquacomputer Flow Meter Sensor (53129) to the Aquaero 6 while using all the fan slots for Rad and Case fan control.
> 
> Also if there is a better way of connecting everything that i want I'm all ears
> 
> Thanks.
> 
> 
> 
> Use the AC USB / Aquabus pumps, and be able to control and monitor everything thru the A6 / Aquasuite.
> 
> With that many fans, you'll want to go with PWM ones, unless they have very low current draw. Sounds like you're going to be using 480s/560s with 8 fans each.
Click to expand...

Just to add any pwm d5 will work. It has nothing to do with aquacomputer d5s laing the OEMs for d5s did not follow Intel pwm specs. Simple fix is the diva mod i can link it if you want, but imo best option is the USB pumps
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jsutter71*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> i need more info, you should just connect them all to usb and aquabus if possible
> 
> when you connect them via usb nothing shows up ?
> 
> you have verified you connected it properly correct ?
> you will have to set the farbwerk to aquabus priority before that will work via aquabus,
> 
> what version of aqusuite are you running ?
> 
> 
> 
> Sorry to took so long to respond. I've been pulled away by the family so I haven't had the chance to double check my work. Hopefully today or tomorrow I'll be able to double check my connections. It's possible the USB connections were not properly connected.
Click to expand...

take your time life is more important

@Ruffhi if you use the PWM splitter cable I linked you you can monitor rpms of both pumps using that splitter cable from swiftech (or making one just like it) and the second pump while being controlled by aquaero can have the RPMs monitored by the mobo!


----------



## RDKing2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> you would not hook the Aqua Computer Flow sensor high flow USB to the PMW connector they can be hooked up either USB or Aquabus.


The mechanical high flow usb connects to usb or the flow terminal. It has no aquabus connection. The A6 has only one flow terminal. Another device such as a PA with a flow terminal would be needed if usb is not used for one. Guess the newer versions have aquabus. Mine does not. Hard to keep up with the changes.


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RDKing2*
> 
> The mechanical high flow usb connects to usb or the flow terminal. It has no aquabus connection. The A6 has only one flow terminal. Another device such as a PA with a flow terminal would be needed if usb is not used for one. Guess the newer versions have aquabus. Mine does not. Hard to keep up with the changes.


sorry but the USB does have a aquabus connection as you can see from the picture I also own 4 of them so I know!!!!!


----------



## ruffhi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *ruffhi*
> 
> I got 2 [pumps] with the PWM input.
> 
> So, am I right in thinking that my choices with these in-series pumps are one of the following ...
> 
> run one off a aquaero 6 header and slave the other pump to the first pump
> 
> run each off a separate aquaero 6 header
> 
> run one of a aquaero 6 header and *one off the info from the Aquabus Hi-Speed port (but using the default Aquabus address)
> *
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *This is exactly what you can NOT do with your PWM pump. . . It's Not an MPS device . . .
> 
> You can't run a PWM pump from the Aquabus port* . . . . Only their USB / Aquabus pump can connect to the Aquabus port.
> 
> Your first option of splitting the PWM wire from 1 fan channel to go to both pumps is the one to go with, as it insures both pumps run at the same, or as close as reasonably expectable, speed,.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the input Diva. Noted re PWM pump not being an MPS device. You also make an excellent point of slaving the pumps so that they run at the same speed.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> Have one of the pumps report its rpm to that fan channel, and have the other pump's tach wire to the mobo CPU header so the mobo has a CPU fan input, which you could use as a safety alarm / shutdown if you wanted.


I do want a shutdown option but I was assuming that would come from / via the Aquaero 6. I'll google some and see if I can find out how to do this.

If I do need to use the mobo, I am assuming that the PWM single for both pumps should come from the Aquaero 6, one of the tach should go back to the Aquaero 6 and the other should go to the mobo. I might draw up a wiring diagram so that I can get it right.


----------



## Daggi

Hey








I'm having trouble with my MPS 400 flow meter. It has started to fail the same way as my previous MPS 400 after 5-6 months.
So I'm curious, is the MPS flow meters just a piece of crap?


----------



## Costas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Daggi*
> 
> Hey
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm having trouble with my MPS 400 flow meter. It has started to fail the same way as my previous MPS 400 after 5-6 months.
> So I'm curious, is the MPS flow meters just a piece of crap?


Maybe you have been unlucky..?

There have been the odd one or two that have failed in the past that people have reported but I think you are the first person I have heard of have two go down...

How are yours behaving as they go faulty?


----------



## Daggi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Costas*
> 
> Maybe you have been unlucky..?
> 
> There have been the odd one or two that have failed in the past that people have reported but I think you are the first person I have heard of have two go down...
> 
> How are yours behaving as they go faulty?


Mine has started with showing lower and lower flow rates, then they just stop working, but on both i still have the internal temp. I also have a high flow meter so i know that flow is stable around 5 liters pr minute


----------



## Costas

Just on the off chance - Have you pulled one apart to see if any of the pressure measuring holes/tubes are blocked etc?


----------



## Daggi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Costas*
> 
> Just on the off chance - Have you pulled one apart to see if any of the pressure measuring holes/tubes are blocked etc?


Yes I have done that but they are clean and open.


----------



## Costas

Maybe the pressure measuring IC is cactus - there is not much too them.

They are about $10 USD - If you can solder/de-solder SMD components it would be interesting to see if replacing the sensor IC fixes it.

http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/freescale-semiconductor-nxp/MP3V5004DP/MP3V5004DP-ND/2186178


----------



## Daggi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Costas*
> 
> Maybe the pressure measuring IC is cactus - there is not much too them.
> 
> They are about $10 USD - If you can solder/de-solder SMD components it would be interesting to see if replacing the sensor IC fixes it.
> 
> http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/freescale-semiconductor-nxp/MP3V5004DP/MP3V5004DP-ND/2186178


That's a good idea, I'll take a closer look at it and see what I can figure out. Thanks for the link


----------



## Newtocooling

Does anyone know if I can find a shorter version of the side mounting panels for the Aquaero? I want to put two in a pedestal with two 560 rads, but they won't fit due to the lenghth of the sides.


----------



## Mega Man

DIY
I tried to get close to make them that just bolt on to the faceplate.... they refuse


----------



## Newtocooling

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> DIY
> I tried to get close to make them that just bolt on to the faceplate.... they refuse


So.......A no go then. Ok I'll just keep them in the flex bay area.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Newtocooling*
> 
> Does anyone know if I can find a shorter version of the side mounting panels for the Aquaero? I want to put two in a pedestal with two 560 rads, but they won't fit due to the lenghth of the sides.


Had do to cut mine for Grey Matter and make new holes on it.

In regard to the MPS 400 I had two different units failing on me on two different systems. The only common thing is that both systems were running Pastel. So, that is something to keep in mind. One I did not bother yet to take out to see if the tubes are blocked. The other I took out and the tubes were not blocked, it was a board failure.


----------



## mechanic2

Daqqi,
. . . . How old are your Flow Sensors? They might be covered under warranty. You should contact AC Tech support and see what they have to say.
Thanks,
rich!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Daggi*
> 
> That's a good idea, I'll take a closer look at it and see what I can figure out. Thanks for the link


----------



## ruffhi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ruffhi*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Have one of the pumps report its rpm to that fan channel, and have the other pump's tach wire to the mobo CPU header so the mobo has a CPU fan input, which you could use as a safety alarm / shutdown if you wanted.
> 
> 
> 
> I do want a shutdown option but I was assuming that would come from / via the Aquaero 6. I'll google some and see if I can find out how to do this.
> 
> If I do need to use the mobo, I am assuming that the PWM single for both pumps should come from the Aquaero 6, one of the tach should go back to the Aquaero 6 and the other should go to the mobo. I might draw up a wiring diagram so that I can get it right.
Click to expand...

I've been thinking about this a bit this afternoon. I have 2 x PWM pumps. Each has a molex connector (2 wires) and a fan connector (2 wires). The fan connectors are the 4 pin style and the wires coming from the pump are green and blue.

According to this pic, the green is 'sense' (or RPMs, tach or similar) and the blue is 'control' (or PWM signal). I'll confirm that based on pin placement.

*Edit:* My pumps did use blue and green wires ... but the greenwire was the control / pwm single and the blue wire was the sense / RPM info.



Spoiler: 4-pin fan pinout







Diva suggested that I slave the two pumps together and have them both controlled by the aquaero. She also suggested that I shunt one of the tach readings to the motherboard.

I've decided that I don't want to hack into the pump wiring so I am planning on putting together some fan connections with the following layout ...


----------



## Mega Man

Perfect.

Again you can use (or make) a wire like this if you want to read rpms from second pump (I use a spare mobo header) all it does (for pump 2) is take the PWM signal from the aquaero and use that to control and then send the RPM to the second header
http://www.swiftech.com/PWMsplittercable.aspx


----------



## galletabah

hi guys!
I have an aquaero 5xt
I need to downsize it

Can i remove the LCD and use it how aquaero 5lt?

Thanks!


----------



## Mega Man

Yes you can


----------



## galletabah

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> Yes you can


Thanks!


----------



## Mega Man

anytime let us know if you have any other questions


----------



## jsutter71

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> i need more info, you should just connect them all to usb and aquabus if possible
> 
> when you connect them via usb nothing shows up ?
> 
> you have verified you connected it properly correct ?
> you will have to set the farbwerk to aquabus priority before that will work via aquabus,
> 
> what version of aqusuite are you running ?


I've finally had the opportunity to address this issue and it looks like I have made a mistake with my USB connections. . I was able to see both my farbwerks in the Aquasuite software. I'm running the latest version 2016-4. I have my farbwerks mounted directly underneath my Aquaero, and in order to properly connect everything requires some maneuvering.


----------



## Mega Man

NICE ! glad you got it sorted !


----------



## mechanic2

Megaman,
. . . . ModMyMods has some nice 3 connector, 4 pin cable splitters that will do exactly what Ruffhi wants to do. He would have to do any rewiring at all. Just plug everything in. Only one tach signal is connected in these splitter cables. Here is a link to the page:

https://modmymods.com/phobya-y-cable-4pin-pwm-to-3x-4pin-pwm-30cm-black.html

. . . . I hope that this helps.
Thanks,
rich!


----------



## ruffhi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mechanic2*
> 
> Megaman,
> . . . . ModMyMods has some nice 3 connector, 4 pin cable splitters that will do exactly what Ruffhi wants to do. He would have to do any rewiring at all. Just plug everything in. Only one tach signal is connected in these splitter cables. Here is a link to the page:
> 
> https://modmymods.com/phobya-y-cable-4pin-pwm-to-3x-4pin-pwm-30cm-black.html
> 
> . . . . I hope that this helps.
> Thanks,
> rich!


Hmm ... interesting & thanks. But too late







. I have already constructed my (much shorter!) thingo. I also shortened and sleeved my pump cables ... I'll try and take some pictures tonight.


----------



## jsutter71

Regarding fan splitters, I decided to follow Mega man's advice and just remove the 3rd pins on all but 2 of the connections. The splitters are cheap and I have a bunch of them I'm not using. Afterwards I tested with Aquasuite. The fans function as they should, and the software shows the RPM correctly. I have 29 fans attached to the splitters and I can barely hear them when I lower the RPM to 800.


----------



## ruffhi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ruffhi*
> 
> Hmm ... interesting & thanks. But too late
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . I have already constructed my (much shorter!) thingo. I also shortened and sleeved my pump cables ... I'll try and take some pictures tonight.


Here you go ... my little wiring contraption. The hoods on the left attach to the pump 'fan' connectors and the connectors on the right go to the Aquaero (bottom right) and the motherboard (top right ... single wire carrying the RPM info).


----------



## inoran81

Anyone trying out this new water block solution from AQC



























Just listed in their webstore...hehe

"PCIe 4x adapter for M.2/M-Key NGFF PCIe SSD. Compatible with form factors 2280, 2260 and 2242.
The water block ensures maximum performance of high speed SSDs."

Still waiting for Sven update on their official splitters...


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *inoran81*
> 
> Anyone trying out this new water block solution from AQC
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just listed in their webstore...hehe
> 
> "PCIe 4x adapter for M.2/M-Key NGFF PCIe SSD. Compatible with form factors 2280, 2260 and 2242.
> The water block ensures maximum performance of high speed SSDs."
> 
> Still waiting for Sven update on their official splitters...


Glad to see this and it looks very interesting but I already have a water block for my intel 750 and no slots left to add another card


----------



## inoran81

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> Glad to see this and it looks very interesting but I already have a water block for my intel 750 and no slots left to add another card


Time to start another rig then.....


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *inoran81*
> 
> Anyone trying out this new water block solution from AQC
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just listed in their webstore...hehe
> 
> "PCIe 4x adapter for M.2/M-Key NGFF PCIe SSD. Compatible with form factors 2280, 2260 and 2242.
> The water block ensures maximum performance of high speed SSDs."
> 
> Still waiting for Sven update on their official splitters...


wow, i like it, thanks @Shoggy !!

is the adapter real 4 lanes or 4 lane slot cut down to 2 lanes

IMO you should sell a BLACK PCIE cover as an additional accessory


----------



## inoran81

Now.... If water block is not for everyone...

Passive heatsink?


----------



## Mega Man

loving it ! more and more. i wanna do a bh7 all air soon ....


----------



## MR-e

Does anyone get coil whine with their Aquero? I powered mine on to test and the thing is driving me nuts! I tried taking the heatsink off and just running the Aquaero alone and not mounted to the computer, still coil whine.









Need to turn your volume up, not sure why the video is so quiet, but this coil whine is louder than 6 fans


----------



## Mega Man

There is nothing really that should make any whine.


----------



## MR-e

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> There is nothing really that should make any whine.


I found the source of the coil whine, it's that circular choke thingy.

@Shoggy - Any suggestions on how to get that guy to pipe down? I turned it on and pressed my finger on the component and the sound almost disappears - lessens considerably.

This is the guy causing all the noise!


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sexpot*
> 
> I found the source of the coil whine, it's that circular choke thingy.
> 
> @Shoggy - Any suggestions on how to get that guy to pipe down? I turned it on and pressed my finger on the component and the sound almost disappears - lessens considerably.
> 
> This is the guy causing all the noise!


that is an little buzzer for a alarm alarm need to check the aquasuite and turn it off!!


----------



## MR-e

Thanks seross! That makes sense, will check up on that once my build is complete!


----------



## Costas

Yeh that is a piezo speaker/sound transducer.

It should only be making a sound if an alarm is going off (it will beep) or if pressing any soft keys on the touch panel (clicks).

Otherwise it should be totally quiet with no buzzing etc.

If you are hearing coil whine type noise from the Aquaero then it may be another issue...

Have you tried powering it up from another power supply?


----------



## GTXJackBauer

That surely is a whine and not a beep coming from that speaker. Its somewhere else.


----------



## Mega Man

Yep that is a speaker.


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Costas*
> 
> Yeh that is a piezo speaker/sound transducer.
> 
> It should only be making a sound if an alarm is going off (it will beep) or if pressing any soft keys on the touch panel (clicks).
> 
> Otherwise it should be totally quiet with no buzzing etc.
> 
> If you are hearing coil whine type noise from the Aquaero then it may be another issue...
> 
> Have you tried powering it up from another power supply?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GTXJackBauer*
> 
> That surely is a whine and not a beep coming from that speaker. Its somewhere else.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> Yep that is a speaker.


I have seen these piezo sounders (what I I like to call them) make a low whining noise and sound like a loaded transformer or something like this. not saying this is what it is but he said the sound seemed to be coming from there.


----------



## MR-e

Guys it's 100% that speaker thing. If I press my thumb over the top, the noise is significantly dampened. I PM'd shoggy and he it may be caused by a transistor on the back of the PCB soldered near the speaker. His advice was to desolder it, not sure how I feel about that


----------



## DerComissar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sexpot*
> 
> Guys it's 100% that speaker thing. If I press my thumb over the top, the noise is significantly dampened. I PM'd shoggy and he it may be caused by a transistor on the back of the PCB soldered near the speaker. His advice was to desolder it, not sure how I feel about that


Not sure how I'd feel about that either.

I guess Shoggy was trying to offer a solution to the issue, without having to send it back for rma.

But is the transistor you'd have to desolder needed for anything else?

And do you really want to have to go through the trouble of desoldering it?

Stay tuned, for the next episode, of "As The Aquaero Turns."


----------



## MR-e

Right you are, all those questions ran through my mind as well. I'm awaiting shoggy's response as the next steps.

I think this is the resistor he was talking about, by default, not all Aquaeros come with them.



Here was his initial response, just in case anyone else has this issue:

"Hello,

it is very likely a problem that a small voltage is present all the time. If you check the backside of the board you will very likely find a small SMD resistor near the soldering points of the buzzer. If this is true for your aquaero (not all have them), then you can remove it if you want to fix the problem yourself. You can unsolder it or use a sharp(!) side-cutting pliers and cut it off.

kind regards
Sven"


----------



## Mega Man

He knows his stuff, and I trust him


----------



## electro2u

He had me hit a clicking flow meter with a hammer once. It fixed it.


----------



## DerComissar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sexpot*
> 
> Right you are, all those questions ran through my mind as well. I'm awaiting shoggy's response as the next steps.
> 
> I think this is the resistor he was talking about, by default, not all Aquaeros come with them.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here was his initial response, just in case anyone else has this issue:
> 
> "Hello,
> 
> it is very likely a problem that a small voltage is present all the time. If you check the backside of the board you will very likely find a small SMD resistor near the soldering points of the buzzer. If this is true for your aquaero (not all have them), then you can remove it if you want to fix the problem yourself. You can unsolder it or use a sharp(!) side-cutting pliers and cut it off.
> 
> kind regards
> Sven"


The photo and quote from Sven helps to explain it better.
I have that resistor on mine as well, no issues with it so far.

I certainly trust what he says, but I'd still be leery about messing with that resistor myself.

As far as neutering it yourself, it would be nice for someone who is experienced with such things, such as the Diva, to chime in with her opinion, methinks.


----------



## MR-e

As per Shoggy, it's definitely that resister. If anyone suffers from whine, you can safely remove it yourself and it will not affect warranty. I asked about advanced rma, but no bueno









"Hello,

yes, I meant this part. This resistor was added manually especially to fix a possible problem with the buzzer not working correctly (mainly being too silent). In you case it causes just the opposite: the speaker can be slightly heard all the time.

You can also send in the device but we have no option to exchange that in advance so you would have to return it to Germany and we would do nothing else as suggest: the resistor will be removed and the problem will be gone.

Of course it will not void the warranty if you remove it. If you are unsure about it you could also ask a friend who has experience with soldering - will be child's play for him/her









kind regards
Sven"


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sexpot*
> 
> As per Shoggy, it's definitely that resister. If anyone suffers from whine, you can safely remove it yourself and it will not affect warranty. I asked about advanced rma, but no bueno
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> "Hello,
> 
> yes, I meant this part. This resistor was added manually especially to fix a possible problem with the buzzer not working correctly (mainly being too silent). In you case it causes just the opposite: the speaker can be slightly heard all the time.
> 
> You can also send in the device but we have no option to exchange that in advance so you would have to return it to Germany and we would do nothing else as suggest: the resistor will be removed and the problem will be gone.
> 
> Of course it will not void the warranty if you remove it. If you are unsure about it you could also ask a friend who has experience with soldering - will be child's play for him/her
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> kind regards
> Sven"


Sounds good to me. I would do it for you if I was nearby (unless you live in Sao Paulo, Brazil) but it really should not be difficult for anyone with a solder.


----------



## GTXJackBauer

Get mentally lubed up by watching some basic youtube videos on soldering. I believe that's what I would do if I was in the same position.


----------



## MR-e

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GTXJackBauer*
> 
> Get mentally lubed up by watching some basic youtube videos on soldering. I believe that's what I would do if I was in the same position.


Haha, I got'r done boys, and girls! My AQ6 is now silent without any whine/buzz


----------



## GTXJackBauer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sexpot*
> 
> Haha, I got'r done boys, and girls! My AQ6 is now silent without any whine/buzz


lol Awesome. Glad it all worked out.


----------



## DerComissar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GTXJackBauer*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *sexpot*
> 
> Haha, I got'r done boys, and girls! My AQ6 is now silent without any whine/buzz
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> lol Awesome. Glad it all worked out.
Click to expand...

Good job!









Edit:
@sexpot:
A well-deserved Rep+


----------



## 44TZL

Hi everyone! This little board + aquasuite is awesome! Just installed it in my new build / mod.


----------



## Shoggy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sexpot*
> 
> Haha, I got'r done boys, and girls! My AQ6 is now silent without any whine/buzz


----------



## MR-e

Thanks Shoggy for the guidance, and everyone for the encouragement


----------



## DerComissar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *sexpot*
> 
> Haha, I got'r done boys, and girls! My AQ6 is now silent without any whine/buzz
Click to expand...

Shoggy deserves a Rep+ for this solution.
Rep+


----------



## Speng

Tried to use the phobya pwm splitter board, the x6 and the x8 variants, both for controlling multiple MPS devices and for multiple fan control. It seems doesnt work well for either purpose.

When using a phobya x6 pwm splitter as aquabus multiplier, it can't successfully pass through signal for all attached devices simultaneously, only intermittently one at a time it seems.I ended up purcahsing aquacomputers own dedicated aquabus 4-pin y-splitters and only then all devices were successfully detected. However, with these cable y-splitters, the inside of the case turns into a an epic cable mess.

When using phobyas x8 pwm splitter to control radiator fans, it turns out it cant properly power all 8 fans from either Fan1 or Fan2 channel on the aquaero. It's always one of the fans that wont spin up or spin extremely slow. Havent triued regular cable y splitters yet tho as I m dreading the cable mess it will create as I have x2 480 radiators with 8 fans each.

In what way should you wire up this many fans to your aquaero and have them all properly controlled and powered and avoiding a crap ton of pwm y-spliters per radiator?


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Speng*
> 
> Tried to use the phobya pwm splitter board, the x6 and the x8 variants, both for controlling multiple MPS devices and for multiple fan control. It seems doesnt work well for either purpose.
> 
> When using a phobya x6 pwm splitter as aquabus multiplier, it can't successfully pass through signal for all attached devices simultaneously, only intermittently one at a time it seems.I ended up purcahsing aquacomputers own dedicated aquabus 4-pin y-splitters and only then all devices were successfully detected. However, with these cable y-splitters, the inside of the case turns into a an epic cable mess.
> 
> When using phobyas x8 pwm splitter to control radiator fans, it turns out it cant properly power all 8 fans from either Fan1 or Fan2 channel on the aquaero. It's always one of the fans that wont spin up or spin extremely slow. Havent triued regular cable y splitters yet tho as I m dreading the cable mess it will create as I have x2 480 radiators with 8 fans each.
> 
> In what way should you wire up this many fans to your aquaero and have them all properly controlled and powered and avoiding a crap ton of pwm y-spliters per radiator?


You could always make your own cables so that you will have exactly what you want. Just need to soldier...


----------



## Mega Man

I am shortening them ( the fan cables ) and running one cable to all fans ( piggy backing one to the next


----------



## DerComissar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> I am shortening them ( the fan cables ) and running one cable to all fans ( piggy backing one to the next


How many fans total are you connecting together?
I'll be doing 16 AP-15's (non-pwm) on mine, but so far have them split into 3 separate connections.


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DerComissar*
> 
> How many fans total are you connecting together?
> I'll be doing 16 AP-15's (non-pwm) on mine, but so far have them split into 3 separate connections.


I have done 18 fans like this before!!


----------



## DerComissar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *DerComissar*
> 
> How many fans total are you connecting together?
> I'll be doing 16 AP-15's (non-pwm) on mine, but so far have them split into 3 separate connections.
> 
> 
> 
> I have done 18 fans like this before!!
Click to expand...

I think you've done everything, with the big honkin' CaseLabs case you had for your Insanity build, lol.









Yeah, it should be no problem on one fan connector on the AQ6, I shouldn't need to use up three of them with my pending setup, may have to re-think the wiring a bit, lol.


----------



## Artah

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Speng*
> 
> Tried to use the phobya pwm splitter board, the x6 and the x8 variants, both for controlling multiple MPS devices and for multiple fan control. It seems doesnt work well for either purpose.
> 
> When using a phobya x6 pwm splitter as aquabus multiplier, it can't successfully pass through signal for all attached devices simultaneously, only intermittently one at a time it seems.I ended up purcahsing aquacomputers own dedicated aquabus 4-pin y-splitters and only then all devices were successfully detected. However, with these cable y-splitters, the inside of the case turns into a an epic cable mess.
> 
> When using phobyas x8 pwm splitter to control radiator fans, it turns out it cant properly power all 8 fans from either Fan1 or Fan2 channel on the aquaero. It's always one of the fans that wont spin up or spin extremely slow. Havent triued regular cable y splitters yet tho as I m dreading the cable mess it will create as I have x2 480 radiators with 8 fans each.
> 
> In what way should you wire up this many fans to your aquaero and have them all properly controlled and powered and avoiding a crap ton of pwm y-spliters per radiator?


I modified the X8 so that I'm only taking in signal from 1 fan and all others spin properly for me.


----------



## Speng

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Artah*
> 
> modified the X8 so that I'm only taking in signal from 1 fan and all others spin properly for me.


Which pwm splitter board is that?

DIY is not on the map due to no tools and no eye sight to manage it. I am amzed there are no proper off the shelf products for this to go along with the Aquaero. Sure, the Aquaero is an enthusiast device but you cant expect people to be prepared to hack 3rd party products to get the thing up and running properly.

As I understand it, the Aquaero is able to power a large number of fans directly off of it s fan headers but all these pwm splitter boards comes with PSU external power wired into them. Does this interfere with using a controller that is meant to supply all the power via the PWM connector directly instead of via PSU?

This has almost turned into a show stopper for me.


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Speng*
> 
> Which pwm splitter board is that?
> 
> As I understand it, the Aquaero is able to power a large number of fans directly off of it s fan headers but all these pwm splitter boards comes with PSU external power wired into them. Does this interfere with using a controller that is meant to supply all the power via the PWM connector directly instead of via PSU?
> 
> This has almost turned into a show stopper for me.


No it does not interfere with the Aquaero and it is actually prefered to take the power from the PSU on PMW Fans!! And Actually the Aquaero Can provide power but does not need to as long as you supply the PMW signal you get control and in doing this you can control more fans than you could if hte Aquaero was providing power!

No matter what you do not want but one RPM signal going to each header on the Aquaero otherwise it will get real erratic control and readings. this is sort of like having 8 people tell you to do something all at the same time!!


----------



## Newtocooling

On an Aquaero 6XT what doest it mean when I get a Fan 2 Overvoltage message, and there are no fans plugged into channel 2?


----------



## Newtocooling

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Speng*
> 
> Which pwm splitter board is that?
> 
> DIY is not on the map due to no tools and no eye sight to manage it. I am amzed there are no proper off the shelf products for this to go along with the Aquaero. Sure, the Aquaero is an enthusiast device but you cant expect people to be prepared to hack 3rd party products to get the thing up and running properly.
> 
> As I understand it, the Aquaero is able to power a large number of fans directly off of it s fan headers but all these pwm splitter boards comes with PSU external power wired into them. Does this interfere with using a controller that is meant to supply all the power via the PWM connector directly instead of via PSU?
> 
> This has almost turned into a show stopper for me.


The splitter board Artah modified is this one:

http://www.performance-pcs.com/modmytoys-4-pin-pwm-power-low-profile-distribution-pcb-6-way-block.html

If you want one that does not need any modification, and only gives RPM from one fan then get either of these for the job:

http://www.performance-pcs.com/swiftech-8-way-pwm-splitter-box-sata.html

http://www.performance-pcs.com/silverstone-cpf04-1-to-8-pwm-fan-hub-black.html

Both of these are available on Amazon as well. I think the Silverstone is a little better built and the fan headers point to the side on that one as well for a lower profile.


----------



## Artah

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Speng*
> 
> Which pwm splitter board is that?
> 
> DIY is not on the map due to no tools and no eye sight to manage it. I am amzed there are no proper off the shelf products for this to go along with the Aquaero. Sure, the Aquaero is an enthusiast device but you cant expect people to be prepared to hack 3rd party products to get the thing up and running properly.
> 
> As I understand it, the Aquaero is able to power a large number of fans directly off of it s fan headers but all these pwm splitter boards comes with PSU external power wired into them. Does this interfere with using a controller that is meant to supply all the power via the PWM connector directly instead of via PSU?
> 
> This has almost turned into a show stopper for me.


Make sure you setup the controller to PWM mode and the fans are 4 PIN PWM. It works beautifully and the mod is extremely easy that a caveman like me can do it


----------



## newb here

So i think i may have goofed in getting the swiftech 8-way PWM fan splitter, from what I've been reading its either 100% or nothing, is there any way to mod it so have have full control over the 8 fans on each splitter and have full control through the Aquaero 6?


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *newb here*
> 
> So i think i may have goofed in getting the swiftech 8-way PWM fan splitter, from what I've been reading its either 100% or nothing, is there any way to mod it so have have full control over the 8 fans on each splitter and have full control through the Aquaero 6?


Only if the fans are voltage controlled. Are you using pwm or voltage?


----------



## newb here

PWM


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *newb here*
> 
> PWM


you can control all fans in the swiftech splitter together from whatever minimum value they spin, say 10%, up to 100%. If by control you mean every single fan on the splitter with different values (say one at 10%, other at 20%, a third at 40% and so on) then no, you can not. Is not a problem of the splitter is just what splitters do: they split the signal or current from one channel to several. You have 4 channels in the aquaero and you can daisy chain dozens of fans on each to control every set of those dozens separately from the others.


----------



## Newtocooling

Sorry for the double post, but does a fan overvoltage message mean that I have fried a fan channel?Now when I plug a set of fans into the channel they start up and immediately stop working.


----------



## Mega Man

it could :/
talk to shoggy
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *newb here*
> 
> PWM


you need to make sure you switch the fans to PWM mode in aquasuite

in aquasuite select
aquaero > fans> ( pick fan channel ) > advanced settings > pwm controlled


----------



## Newtocooling

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> it could :/
> talk to shoggy
> 
> you need to make sure you switch the fans to PWM mode in aquasuite
> 
> in aquasuite select
> aquaero > fans> ( pick fan channel ) > advanced settings > pwm controlled


That's ok I don't want to bug Shoggy, as it was my fault. I thought I had unplugged the PSU, and pulled the flow meter, and RGB connectors then realized I had not cut full power.







My own stupidity. I can live without one channel for now anyway.


----------



## newb here

Quote:


> you need to make sure you switch the fans to PWM mode in aquasuite
> 
> in aquasuite select
> aquaero > fans> ( pick fan channel ) > advanced settings > pwm controlled


Quote:


> you can control all fans in the swiftech splitter together from whatever minimum value they spin, say 10%, up to 100%. If by control you mean every single fan on the splitter with different values (say one at 10%, other at 20%, a third at 40% and so on) then no, you can not. Is not a problem of the splitter is just what splitters do: they split the signal or current from one channel to several. You have 4 channels in the aquaero and you can daisy chain dozens of fans on each to control every set of those dozens separately from the others.


Yea i knew that you could only control them as a group, but i saw somewhere that someone had used a swiftech fan spitter and could only get that fans to run full speed or nothing. Could that be because they didn't set it up right in aquasuite? I thought it was because the power went straight to to PSU and only two wire went into the Aquaero 6.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Newtocooling*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> it could :/
> talk to shoggy
> 
> you need to make sure you switch the fans to PWM mode in aquasuite
> 
> in aquasuite select
> aquaero > fans> ( pick fan channel ) > advanced settings > pwm controlled
> 
> 
> 
> That's ok I don't want to bug Shoggy, as it was my fault. I thought I had unplugged the PSU, and pulled the flow meter, and RGB connectors then realized I had not cut full power.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My own stupidity. I can live without one channel for now anyway.
Click to expand...

if all you did is remove wires, imo you should be fine . have you checked the programmable fuse ( aquaero > fans> ( pick fan channel ) > advanced settings > programable fuse ) max setting should not exceed 2.5a for most people
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *newb here*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> you need to make sure you switch the fans to PWM mode in aquasuite
> 
> in aquasuite select
> aquaero > fans> ( pick fan channel ) > advanced settings > pwm controlled
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> you can control all fans in the swiftech splitter together from whatever minimum value they spin, say 10%, up to 100%. If by control you mean every single fan on the splitter with different values (say one at 10%, other at 20%, a third at 40% and so on) then no, you can not. Is not a problem of the splitter is just what splitters do: they split the signal or current from one channel to several. You have 4 channels in the aquaero and you can daisy chain dozens of fans on each to control every set of those dozens separately from the others.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> i would assume they didnt set it up properly
> 
> pwm fans you can get he power from somewhere else and pwm signal from another place
> 
> Yea i knew that you could only control them as a group, but i saw somewhere that someone had used a swiftech fan spitter and could only get that fans to run full speed or nothing. Could that be because they didn't set it up right in aquasuite? I thought it was because the power went straight to to PSU and only two wire went into the Aquaero 6.
Click to expand...


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *newb here*
> 
> Yea i knew that you could only control them as a group, but i saw somewhere that someone had used a swiftech fan spitter and could only get that fans to run full speed or nothing. Could that be because they didn't set it up right in aquasuite? I thought it was because the power went straight to to PSU and only two wire went into the Aquaero 6.


swiftech pwm splitter works flawless. Most likely whoever got a problem set up the fan channel in Aquaero to be volt regulated and not pwm regulated. Fault is on the user not the splitter. I am using right now with Aquaero 6 and 8 PWM fans on a channel.


----------



## newb here

Quote:


> swiftech pwm splitter works flawless. Most likely whoever got a problem set up the fan channel in Aquaero to be volt regulated and not pwm regulated. Fault is on the user not the splitter. I am using right now with Aquaero 6 and 8 PWM fans on a channel.


Awesome!! thank you.


----------



## NeeqOne

If anyone is interested in selling an aquacomputer d5 pump mechanics with usb- and aquabus interface, please let me know. I am looking for one to run a dual pump config. Thanks


----------



## Kojaqe

New member here and new owner of Aquaero 6XT


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jmaybush*
> 
> New member here and new owner of Aquaero 6XT


Welcome!!!


----------



## GTXJackBauer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jmaybush*
> 
> New member here and new owner of Aquaero 6XT


Congrats and welcome as well.


----------



## wa3pnt

Need help with Farbwerk programming.

Involved components:
Aquaero 6XT
Aquasuite 2016-4
Farbwerk USB/Aquabus Version (connected to the Aquaero with both USB and Aquabus)
CPU Temperature Probe (connected to Temp #1 on Aquaero)
RGB LED Strip

Goal:
To have the RGB LED output of the Farbwerk change colors based on the wired Temperature #1 input of the Aquaero.

Issue:
I cannot find out how to use the Aquaero Temperature #1 input to control the Farbwerk output.

I find that the Aquaero Software Temperature Sensors can be used, but not the wired Temperature Sensors.
I know that the Farbwerk itself has wired Temperature Sensor inputs, but I need the CPU Temperature Sensor connected to the Aquaero for the Fan Speed Controller.

I can monitor and export the wired Temperature Sensor with aida64, and then utilize the aida64 export as a Software Temperature Sensor for the Farbwerk, however when the computer is turned on this temperature reading is not available until aida64 and Aquasuite load.

I attempted to select "External controller source (aquabus, bluetooth, USB)" as the Farbwerk Controller input, but find no way of using the Aquasuite/Aquaero LED Controller as an input to the Farbwerk.

If anyone has successfully used an Aquaero wired Temperature Sensor as in input to the Farbwerk Controller, I'd like to know how you did it.

Thanks for any help.

RodeoGeorge


----------



## Mega Man

do you have the farbwerk connected via aquabus ?


----------



## wa3pnt

Yes, as noted in line 6 of the OP, the Farbwerk is connected by both USB and Aquabus.

RodeoGeorge


----------



## Mega Man

Just going through the basics, please don't get mad. I have seen people say they sid something. And they didnt.

Did you you set priority to aquabus?


----------



## GTXJackBauer

I use a water temp sensor off the AQ to control my LEDs through the Farbwerk via Aquabus. It's the same thing in your case but with a air temp sensor.

-Make sure you find the sensor first under the sensor's tab and rename it to w/e you'd like.

- Then under the Controller's tab, ADD a LED controller.

-Under that LED controller, to the right you will see a RED, GREEN and BLUE sections. Add the LED strips you just installed to their colors accordingly.

-Once that is set, the top left area of your LED controller, there should be a "Data Source" box. This is where you will look for your sensor from the AQ 6.

-Once that is set, you set up the temp and color range.

Presto!

To the veterans, if I've missed a step, please chime in.


----------



## wa3pnt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> Just going through the basics, please don't get mad. I have seen people say they sid something. And they didnt.
> 
> Did you you set priority to aquabus?


Mega, definitely not mad. That would be dumb to get mad at anyone trying to help.

Yes, set to Aquabus priority, although I've tried both.

Thanks, and I see a post following yours that might hold the key.

RodeoGeorge


----------



## wa3pnt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GTXJackBauer*
> 
> I use a water temp sensor off the AQ to control my LEDs through the Farbwerk via Aquabus. It's the same thing in your case but with a air temp sensor.
> 
> -Make sure you find the sensor first under the sensor's tab and rename it to w/e you'd like.
> 
> - Then under the Controller's tab, ADD a LED controller.
> 
> -Under that LED controller, to the right you will see a RED, GREEN and BLUE sections. Add the LED strips you just installed to their colors accordingly.
> 
> -Once that is set, the top left area of your LED controller, there should be a "Data Source" box. This is where you will look for your sensor from the AQ 6.
> 
> -Once that is set, you set up the temp and color range.
> 
> Presto!
> 
> To the veterans, if I've missed a step, please chime in.


Thanks Jack.

I'm trying to follow what you've posted, but before I get into that, let me add that I have a RGB LED in the Reservoir that is connected to the Aquaero LED Output. That LED operates correctly through an Aquaero LED Controller.

Now to your post.

1. In the Aquaero > Sensors >Temperature sensors section of Aquasuite I have a Temperature Sensor that I've named CPU1.

2. In the Farbwerk > Sensors > Temperature Sensors section of Aquasuite the only inputs available are the sensors connected to the Farbwerk, and I have no temperature sensors attached to the Farbwerk.

3. When you say "Under the controller TAB" do you mean the Aquaero Controller TAB or the Farbwerk Controller TAB?

4. I went to the Aquaero Controller TAB and added a second LED Controller (The first one is for the Reservoir LED)

5. When you say "Under that LED controller, to the right you will see a RED, GREEN and BLUE sections. Add the LED strips you just installed to their colors accordingly." I see the RED, GREEN and BLUE sections, however when I use the Circled + to select the output the only LED items that appear are the three LEDs associated with the Aquaero LED Output. I do not see the LED Strips attached to the Farbwerk.

6. So basically following the instructions I merely create another LED Controller for the AQUAERO LED Output, and not the Farbwerk LEDs.

What am I missing?

RodeoGeorge

(I'm going to post my original post on the Aquacomputer Forum and see what those users have to say)


----------



## GTXJackBauer

I'm not even sure if you have it configured properly. Mega was right, you'll need to make sure your priority is set up right.

Also, how many LEDs are there? The single LED for the Aquaero is the res LED? How about the Farbwerk? How many channels are occupied? Are you with in the limits? Connectors connected properly and have you set the priority on the Farbwerk?

Here's an example of my setup with some of the other controllers not visible as I couldn't fit it all on my screen. Mind you, I'm connected via Aquabus High only and nothing else. Of course I had to use USB in the beginning to send off the controls to the Aquaero.


----------



## wa3pnt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GTXJackBauer*
> 
> I'm not even sure if you have it configured properly. Mega was right, you'll need to make sure your priority is set up right.
> 
> Also, how many LEDs are there? I have 2 LED Strips connected to the Farbwerk Channels 1 & 2 The single LED for the Aquaero is the res LED? I have a single RGB LED (in the Reservoir) connected to the LED Output of the Aquaero] How about the Farbwerk? How many channels are occupied? The LED Strips are the Farbwerk Channels 1 & 2, and they operate correctly (rotate colors when that funcion is selected in the Farbwerk Controller Are you with in the limits? I am using the CPU Temperature as the input to the Aquaero LED Controller. It's value is 28, and the gradient is set to 27 - 30 Connectors connected properly and have you set the priority on the Farbwerk? There is no option to set the Priority of the Farbwerk in the Farbwerk>System Tab, like there is for the other devices such as the Pumps, Reservoir, and Hi FLow
> 
> Here's an example of my setup with some of the other controllers not visible as I couldn't fit it all on my screen. Mind you, I'm connected via Aquabus High only and nothing else. Of course I had to use USB in the beginning to send off the controls to the Aquaero. As you can see from my snapshot, my Aquasuite LED Controller does not have all the outputs that yours has. I will try disconnecting the USB cable, and leaving only the Aquabus cable.


----------



## wa3pnt

ISSUE SOLVED

Jack, the screenshot you provided of the output of your Aquaero LED Controller caused me to find out why I did not have the Farbwerk LEDs available.

In the Aquaero>Outputs screen, there are Farbwerk Outputs that needed to be set to "Use outputs from device"

Once I did that, I could select the Farbwerk LEDs as outputs from the Aquaero LED Controller.

Thanks for pointing me to the right direction.

RodeoGeorge


----------



## GTXJackBauer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wa3pnt*
> 
> ISSUE SOLVED
> 
> Jack, the screenshot you provided of the output of your Aquaero LED Controller caused me to find out why I did not have the Farbwerk LEDs available.
> 
> In the Aquaero>Outputs screen, there are Farbwerk Outputs that needed to be set to "Use outputs from device"
> 
> Once I did that, I could select the Farbwerk LEDs as outputs from the Aquaero LED Controller.
> 
> Thanks for pointing me to the right direction.
> 
> RodeoGeorge


That is what we were trying to tell you. You need to give full control or the keys to the car to the Aquaero for a take over, if you will. That same rule applies to anything connected to the Aquaero via Aquabus.

You did that and all is fine now. Glad it all worked out.


----------



## stefxyz

Hi guys,

Got a setup question for my newly arrived Aquaero 6 Pro:

I have a Dual EK D5 PWM Pump. Can I connect and control pump speed with the Aquaero?

I also use 2 560mm Radiators in push pull. I bought 3 of of these PWM splitter (2*8 Noctua NF-A14 PWM and 4 Silent WIngs 2 PWM; Case fans):

https://www.amazon.de/gp/product/B00OD7MO6E/ref=s9_simh_co_p147_d0_i1?pf_rd_m=A3JWKAKR8XB7XF&pf_rd_s=typ-top-left-1&pf_rd_r=WAP10JVD50R40GPTD3EW&pf_rd_t=3201&pf_rd_p=517832467&pf_rd_i=typ01

Can I just connect the 3 PWM from the splitter and the Aquero handles the power of the 20 fans or should I connect the 3 Molex connector from these splitters too?

Thanks for the help guys and I am happy to join the club.


----------



## Mega Man

you can use the pumps but they may need a diva mod, they may not depending on when you bought them .

as to the fans it depends on the fans. you would need to look at what they are rated ( amp draw ) and know the start up amp draw will exceed that


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stefxyz*
> 
> Hi guys,
> 
> Got a setup question for my newly arrived Aquaero 6 Pro:
> 
> I have a Dual EK D5 PWM Pump. Can I connect and control pump speed with the Aquaero?
> 
> I also use 2 560mm Radiators in push pull. I bought 3 of of these PWM splitter (2*8 Noctua NF-A14 PWM and 4 Silent WIngs 2 PWM; Case fans):
> 
> https://www.amazon.de/gp/product/B00OD7MO6E/ref=s9_simh_co_p147_d0_i1?pf_rd_m=A3JWKAKR8XB7XF&pf_rd_s=typ-top-left-1&pf_rd_r=WAP10JVD50R40GPTD3EW&pf_rd_t=3201&pf_rd_p=517832467&pf_rd_i=typ01
> 
> Can I just connect the 3 PWM from the splitter and the Aquero handles the power of the 20 fans or should I connect the 3 Molex connector from these splitters too?
> 
> Thanks for the help guys and I am happy to join the club.


As far as the fans go, put 8 each on a splitter, and use the 4pin connector with only 2 wires in it to the Aquaero for tach ans PWM control, and the 4 pin molex to the PSU to power them.

Easily put one 560 rad with its 8 fans on a channel.

You would have a channel then for the case fans on their own splitter, and a channel for the pumps, just get a 1 into 2 Swiftech PWM splitter designed for their dual 35X pump setup.

Can you link the EK PWM pumps you bought . . . .

The ones they've had for a couple years now needed the Diva Mod to work with the Aquaero, but they are moving to the GEN-2 D5's, that work OK right out of the box with the Aquaero, so we'd need to know which you have to answer your question.

Darlene


----------



## ToxM82

Hello all,
I just recently got my Aquaero 6 Pro in from PPCS, I had also ordered a Bitspower X station. I want to confirm, will this work for controlling my 8 Thermaltake RGB PWM Fans? or what is recommended? Thank you!


----------



## stefxyz

Many thanks Darlene and Mega Man. Looks like I have to buy some Sata to Molex adapter as I will have 3 Molex conector for the 3 PwM 8 switches and 1 for each pump. They dint sell swittech here in germany unfortunately would any adapter work?

I bought this one:

https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-xtop-revo-dual-d5-pwm-serial-incl-pump

Do you think i will need an adapter?

Cheers,

Stefan


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stefxyz*
> 
> Many thanks Darlene and Mega Man. Looks like I have to buy some Sata to Molex adapter as I will have 3 Molex conector for the 3 PwM 8 switches and 1 for each pump. They dint sell swittech here in germany unfortunately would any adapter work?
> 
> I bought this one:
> 
> https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-xtop-revo-dual-d5-pwm-serial-incl-pump
> 
> Do you think i will need an adapter?
> 
> Cheers,
> 
> Stefan


That one doesn't say anything about being a Gen2,

So you'll need to do the Diva mod to the splitter cable end that connects the 2 pumps back to the Aquaero for the PWM control to work properly.


----------



## stefxyz

Okay. Where can I find the DIVA Mod? Worst case I could connect the 2 PWM connectors to the 2 to 1 adapter and to the Pump connector on my Asus Z170 deluxe board I guess.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *chimaychanga*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> The green and blue wires are the PWM and tach wire for the D5 connector.
> 
> That mod goes right on the D5's 4 pin connector that plugs onto the A6.
> 
> The easiest way to do it might actually be to make up a short extension cable with the mod on the extension cable's plug.
> 
> Google Zener Diode, and you'll see how they work so they can create a 5V source from the 12V that's present on the power pins of the A6 fan connectors.
> 
> Darlene
> 
> 
> 
> But why do you have 2 of each wire ?? and did you solder the diode and resistors on to the fan terminals?
> 
> EDIT:
> I see now.. you have 2 D5 pump cables underneath your sleeving
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> right ?
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Yes, that cable was made as a Y cable for a dual D5 setup, but could seem confusing with the extra wires.
> 
> The diode and large resistor are each soldered to a terminal.
> 
> Here's the easiest way to implement the mod, . . . . as a short, 2 wire extension for the PWM and tach signals
> :
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Darlene
> 
> Update:
> 
> Here's the little modded extension cable installed, note that the pullup resistor is a 3.3K, basically a workable compromise for either single or dual D5's, but really better suited to a single:
> 
> 
> 
> Here's the scope with only 1 of the D5's PWM line connected, notice that the pulse voltage is right about 3.4V max, and very near 0V min.
> 
> Ideally, the max should be right at 5V, but the D5's electronics load the circuit down some.
> 
> 
> 
> Now here's the scope with both D5's PWM line connected, notice it's now loaded down to about 2.5V.
> 
> The lower max pulse voltage can be accounted for with slightly higher percentage settings in Aquasuite.
> 
> 
> 
> Note also that max voltage for both single and dual setups does go up a little as the pulse width is increased.
> 
> What's really important in both cases, is that the pulse's "off time" voltage stays very close to 0V.
> 
> If the pullup resistor is lowered to 1k or so, the max voltage comes up very close to 5V, but the "off time" voltage climbs up closer to .8V or so, and then the pump doesn't see it as off time any more , and runs full speed with no regards to the pulse width.
> 
> That's why if you have a dual D5, use a 2.2K when you make your cable, and a 3.3K if you have a single D5.
> 
> Darlene
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *chimaychanga*
> 
> Subbed § Can I join please
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A6 XT
> 
> Btw Darlene.. any solution yet to controlling the PWM D5 on A6 ? doh I didnt read your topic
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Yes, . . . .
> 
> There's a really good way with an add-on PCB, but there's also a quick and easy way that yields acceptable results without having to run wires and plug into a 5V molex pin somewhere.
> 
> Here's copied from the "old" A6 thread with some additional information:
> 
> For the capable DIY'er . . .
> 
> While not as optimal a solution as the active component based solutions, this is a workable solution to the issue of having a PWM D5.
> 
> 
> 
> I've tried it on a single and a dual D5 setup and it works satisfactorily with pullups optimized for each case, and it's dead nuts simple, though not exactly elegant.
> 
> At issue is that the D5 needs a fairly "strong" pullup, (lower resistance) . . . while the A6 works best with weaker pullups, (higher resistance).
> 
> This setup uses the 12V available from the first 2 of the 4 PWM fan pins on each channel of the A6.
> 
> The Zener diode and larger resistor form a 5V regulated source that the smaller resistor connects the PWM line to.
> 
> The diode is a 5.1V Zener diode, and the larger resistor, the 1/2 W one, is a 560 Ohm, but 470, 680, 820, or 1K will work as well. 1K may be the easiest to find.
> 
> Be sure you have the Zener diode polarity connected as in the pic.
> 
> The smaller resistor, 1/4 W, is a 2.2K which I'd suggest for a dual D5 setup, but for a single D5, a 3.3K would be fine.
> 
> The smaller size, 1/6W or 1/8W are electrically OK, but the smaller physical size makes lead breakage more of an issue, so stay with 1/4W.
> 
> Everything shown is available from RadioShack.
> 
> Hope that helps,
> 
> Darlene
> 
> Click to expand...
Click to expand...


----------



## stefxyz

K that looks way out of my the range of my abilities... I will just connect the pumps to the motherboard for now.


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stefxyz*
> 
> K that looks way out of my the range of my abilities... I will just connect the pumps to the motherboard for now.


I am sure you can do it as it is not as hard as it looks...


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stefxyz*
> 
> K that looks way out of my the range of my abilities... I will just connect the pumps to the motherboard for now.


Using the mobo will be fine . .

You'll loose having the pump info in the Aquasuite overview etc., but pumps are pretty much a set and forget thing once you get the system bled.

Find a sweet spot where faster doesn't get lower temps and the noise level is comfortably acceptable and just leave it there.


----------



## stefxyz

I really appreciate your helpful replies! I have the flow meter and temp sensor for the Aquacomputer which lets me validate flow and i can set the pump speed in the bios. Thats good enough for me. May be i will post a build log in this forum to show how its possible to fail badly







. Somehow i still order cable and stuff everyday as my planning changes whenever some parts come in and its easy tomunderestimate the amount of fittings necessary... ( ordered 14 and i will be at least3 short...).


----------



## rolldog

Ok, so it's been a REALLY long time since I've been on this forum. I started building my new PC in 2015, a ton of stuff came up making me put everything on the backburner, but I've started working on it again a couple weeks ago and am just about finished.

I do need a little advice here. At the time, I knew this backwards and forwards, but after sleeving some of my Aquaero cables and having them sit in a box for months, I forgot which cable goes where, so I'm hoping someone can lend a hand so I can finally get this finished.

First, I'm using an Aquaero 6XT, 2 x Poweradjust 3 Ultras, and 2 x Farbwerk Bluetooth modules. I have everything mounted up, but I need some help remembering where these cables go. I'm running 2 x D5 pumps (I don't intend to do the Diva Mod, I just want to finish this project now), I also have the PWM banks on the Aquaero filled. Right now, the only thing hooked up to my Aquaero, Poweradjusts, and Farbwerks are the power supplies and the fans for the Aquaero. I'm running a leak check, so no other components inside my computer are powered on either. I know one of the following pictures is a Y adapter for the aquabus, I think the blue 3 pin cables are RPM cables that I sleeved, but what are these cables with a 3 pin connector on one end and a MOLEX plus this other small cable on the other end? The MOLEX only has 2 wires in it, the smaller cable, which looks like a fan would hook to it if it had more than 1 wire, looks like it supplies power to the 3 pin connector. The 2 wire from the MOLEX connector are black and yellow, but I have no idea where these hook up. I have 2 of them. I also have a handful of USB cables, the aquabus cables, so I'm hoping someone can familiarize ,myself with this again so my project can finally be completed. I've attached pictures of the cables I'm referring to.


----------



## stefxyz

Hi guys,

Quick question: I have the Flow Sensor for my Aquaero and a dual D5 pump so I expect to be able to turn down pump speed quite significantly in my 1 GPU 1 CPU 1 Res 1 FLOW Sensor 2 560mm Radiator configuration.

What is the ideal flow rate i should strive for?

Cheers,

Stefan


----------



## Mega Man

1gpm


----------



## stefxyz

So 3.8 Liter per minute. Thanks a lot. Will try to go for that.


----------



## Mega Man

Np the general idea is 1gpm-1.5gpm you can read up more on martins liquid lab if you want


----------



## Artah

Quick question here, is it possible to add more channels to aq6 or link two of them together somehow? I need to control more fan channels and 3 with the pump as the 4th is not enough. Sorry if this have been asked before.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Artah*
> 
> Quick question here, is it possible to add more channels to aq6 or link two of them together somehow? I need to control more fan channels and 3 with the pump as the 4th is not enough. Sorry if this have been asked before.


depends on your pump and fans. Are the pump and fan PWM or volt regulated? You can add a poweradjust which will give you one more channel (volt regulated).


----------



## Artah

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> depends on your pump and fans. Are the pump and fan PWM or volt regulated? You can add a poweradjust which will give you one more channel (volt regulated).


I avoid voltage controlled fans so I would want it to be 100% pwm. wow power adjust gives you a single channel only? that sucks. how about connecting two aq6 together and run the 2nd one as a slave?


----------



## Stringer-Bell

Finally got my Aquaero up and running in my new build and am currently sinking time into getting my Aquasuite page all setup after the firmware update (takes way longer than I'd like, but the customization level is top notch).

Anyway, I have a question that seems to have been brought up here in a couple threads, but for the life of me I couldn't find an answer to.

geggeg said this in another thread...

Quote:


> The unit is fully operational without any software control, it just needs the software to save the settings the first time. *There was just a constant blinking red light above the "high" aquabus channel which I am not sure what the cause was. Any idea?*


I've also got that annoying flashing light that I can't seem to disable!

Currently my alarm actions have "LED blinks red while level is active" unchecked for all options, but maybe I'm missing something?

Thanks in advance.


----------



## 44TZL

Is there any way to have a curve controller, then add a controller that will kick in based on another trigger temperature?

I'm currently cooling on watertemp over ambient curve nearly completely targeted for quietness (500-600rpm EK 140mm F1s, D5 at 2000-2100rpm)... but I wondered wether I could kick in a higher fan speed when benchmarking based on high CPU or GPU temps?


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Artah*
> 
> Quick question here, is it possible to add more channels to aq6 or link two of them together somehow? I need to control more fan channels and 3 with the pump as the 4th is not enough. Sorry if this have been asked before.
> 
> 
> 
> depends on your pump and fans. Are the pump and fan PWM or volt regulated? You can add a poweradjust which will give you one more channel (volt regulated).
Click to expand...

You can add up to 8 channels. Each power adj adds 1 channel each. And you can slave another AQ ( has to be lt but you can just remove LCD and make it Lt) and it adds 4 channels each. Iirc you can slave up to 2 but I would need to check the manual to be sure. The temp channels also work on the slaved units.

I wish the relays worked to but they don't (on slaved units)

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Stringer-Bell*
> 
> Finally got my Aquaero up and running in my new build and am currently sinking time into getting my Aquasuite page all setup after the firmware update (takes way longer than I'd like, but the customization level is top notch).
> 
> Anyway, I have a question that seems to have been brought up here in a couple threads, but for the life of me I couldn't find an answer to.
> 
> geggeg said this in another thread...
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> The unit is fully operational without any software control, it just needs the software to save the settings the first time. *There was just a constant blinking red light above the "high" aquabus channel which I am not sure what the cause was. Any idea?*
> 
> 
> 
> I've also got that annoying flashing light that I can't seem to disable!
> 
> Currently my alarm actions have "LED blinks red while level is active" unchecked for all options, but maybe I'm missing something?
> 
> Thanks in advance.
Click to expand...

AFAIK that is just a "heart beat" and you can not shut it off- you can remove it however I would talk to shoggy
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *44TZL*
> 
> Is there any way to have a curve controller, then add a controller that will kick in based on another trigger temperature?
> 
> I'm currently cooling on watertemp over ambient curve nearly completely targeted for quietness (500-600rpm EK 140mm F1s, D5 at 2000-2100rpm)... but I wondered wether I could kick in a higher fan speed when benchmarking based on high CPU or GPU temps?


I would have to check but I think you would have to use alarms and have them switch profiles.


----------



## 44TZL

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> I would have to check but I think you would have to use alarms and have them switch profiles.


Thank you. I've got it working now using the following 2 things:
- action warning level on exceeding 70C >> loads profile 4
- action on normal level >> load profile 3 (back to normal profile)

.


----------



## Mega Man

i am glad ! sorry i was not aat home when i said it to help further :/


----------



## 44TZL

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> i am glad ! sorry i was not aat home when i said it to help further :/


No worries. You nudged me in the right direction (with alarms) so was easy to figure it out from there.

I'm really impressed with the aquaero & aqua suite.


----------



## jsutter71

So what happened to that fan splitter that Shoggy mentioned??????


----------



## InfoSeeker

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Stringer-Bell*
> 
> Finally got my Aquaero up and running in my new build and am currently sinking time into getting my Aquasuite page all setup after the firmware update (takes way longer than I'd like, but the customization level is top notch).
> 
> Anyway, I have a question that seems to have been brought up here in a couple threads, but for the life of me I couldn't find an answer to.
> 
> geggeg said this in another thread...
> I've also got that annoying flashing light that I can't seem to disable!
> 
> Currently my alarm actions have "LED blinks red while level is active" unchecked for all options, but maybe I'm missing something?
> 
> Thanks in advance.


One option would be to add a Passive heat sink for aquaero 6... covers the light and looks better imho.


----------



## Artah

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> You can add up to 8 channels. Each power adj adds 1 channel each. And you can slave another AQ ( has to be lt but you can just remove LCD and make it Lt) and it adds 4 channels each. Iirc you can slave up to 2 but I would need to check the manual to be sure. The temp channels also work on the slaved units.
> 
> I wish the relays worked to but they don't (on slaved units)


The USB connector is not permanently needed? I don't want to add a USB card just so that I can add more channels. When you add a 2nd controller how does the AQ software know which one is master/slave? Thanks for this info, I heard there is a detailed 90 page manual somewhere that I never downloaded since I do not speak/read German.


----------



## 44TZL

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Artah*
> 
> The USB connector is not permanently needed? I don't want to add a USB card just so that I can add more channels. When you add a 2nd controller how does the AQ software know which one is master/slave? Thanks for this info, I heard there is a detailed 90 page manual somewhere that I never downloaded since I do not speak/read German.


FYI The nzxt ui01 is cheap & easy way to get 4 or so extra usb headers internally from a single USB2 header


----------



## rolldog

I have 2 Poweradjusts hooked up to run 2 of my D5 Vario pumps. It won't give you full control like a PWM pump will, but at least I didn't have to go buy new pumps. Just keep the speed control on 5, you can then lower and raise the speed using volt control, and I have all the connectors on my Aquaero 6XT available for fans. I have 8 hooked up to each channel.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Artah*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> You can add up to 8 channels. Each power adj adds 1 channel each. And you can slave another AQ ( has to be lt but you can just remove LCD and make it Lt) and it adds 4 channels each. Iirc you can slave up to 2 but I would need to check the manual to be sure. The temp channels also work on the slaved units.
> 
> I wish the relays worked to but they don't (on slaved units)
> 
> 
> 
> The USB connector is not permanently needed? I don't want to add a USB card just so that I can add more channels. When you add a 2nd controller how does the AQ software know which one is master/slave? Thanks for this info, I heard there is a detailed 90 page manual somewhere that I never downloaded since I do not speak/read German.
Click to expand...

No they are not needed but I do hook up all mine

They make a English manual.

The slave is flashed with slave firmware


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Artah*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> You can add up to 8 channels. Each power adj adds 1 channel each. And you can slave another AQ ( has to be lt but you can just remove LCD and make it Lt) and it adds 4 channels each. Iirc you can slave up to 2 but I would need to check the manual to be sure. The temp channels also work on the slaved units.
> 
> I wish the relays worked to but they don't (on slaved units)
> 
> 
> 
> The USB connector is not permanently needed? I don't want to add a USB card just so that I can add more channels. When you add a 2nd controller how does the AQ software know which one is master/slave? Thanks for this info, I heard there is a detailed 90 page manual somewhere that I never downloaded since I do not speak/read German.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> No they are not needed but I do hook up all mine
> 
> They make a English manual.
> 
> *The slave is flashed with slave firmware*
Click to expand...

With the 5 LT in slave mode, you loose the 1 PWM channel that it otherwise has . . . .

Does anyone know what happens in that regard if you slave a 6 series Aquaero to another 6 series . . . .

Do you loose being able to have PWM on the slaved unit . . .

In builds with multiple Aquaeros, I've always just left them independent of each other controlling individual loops based on delta t for fear of once slaved you don't get it back to normal very easily if it doesn't work out so well.

Darlene


----------



## RDKing2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> With the 5 LT in slave mode, you loose the 1 PWM channel that it otherwise has . . . .
> 
> Does anyone know what happens in that regard if you slave a 6 series Aquaero to another 6 series . . . .
> 
> Do you loose being able to have PWM on the slaved unit . . .
> 
> In builds with multiple Aquaeros, I've always just left them independent of each other controlling individual loops based on delta t for fear of once slaved you don't get it back to normal very easily if it doesn't work out so well.
> 
> Darlene


IIRC the A6 is not officially supported as a slave unit. I remember reading something about installing A5 firmware on the A6 to make it possible. Seeing as that just turns it into an A5, might as well get an A5 as it is cheaper.
What about that voltage controlled pwm circuit you came up with? Could a basic version of that be added to a PA for another pwm channel?


----------



## Mega Man

shoggy has stated it works fine slaved but you do loose all pwm capability - hopefylly they fix this later

either way using delta t is quick and easy way too


----------



## Artah

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> shoggy has stated it works fine slaved but you do loose all pwm capability - hopefylly they fix this later
> 
> either way using delta t is quick and easy way too


looks like I'm better off buying a poweradjust then because I only use pwm fans or hook it up like Darlene does with independent to each other. Thanks.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Artah*
> 
> looks like I'm better off buying a poweradjust then because I only use pwm fans or hook it up like Darlene does with independent to each other. Thanks.


Poweradjust don´t have pwm capability. only volt regulated.


----------



## Artah

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Poweradjust don´t have pwm capability. only volt regulated.


ugh well that sucks. Y connectors it is with 24 fans and PWM pump.


----------



## GTXJackBauer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Artah*
> 
> ugh well that sucks. Y connectors it is with 24 fans and PWM pump.


Just grab a few self powered PWM hubs from the likes of Swiftech or Silverstone iirc.


----------



## Bear907

Greetings folks. I just ordered up an Aquaero 6 Pro. Finally jumping ship from manual FC's!

I've tried to poke thru this huge thread, but I'm left with a few questions that I'm hoping someone can assist with. Please forgive the "new guy" status as these products are brand new for me.

I've read a lot that said the Aquaeros could not control a PWM D5 pump out of the box at one point. I see that Aquacomputer now makes a PWM D5 pump themselves. So is this issue resolved or no? I picked up a new EK PWM D5 for this project and trying to figure out if this will work or if I have to do something else.

Probably a dumb question, but if a part says it's compatible with Aquaero 5, is it safe to assume it will work with the 6 series also? Specifically looking at this: http://www.performance-pcs.com/aquacomputer-flow-rate-sensor-mps-flow-200-g1-4.html#Features

Thanks for the assist!


----------



## willemdoom

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bear907*
> 
> Greetings folks. I just ordered up an Aquaero 6 Pro. Finally jumping ship from manual FC's!
> 
> I've tried to poke thru this huge thread, but I'm left with a few questions that I'm hoping someone can assist with. Please forgive the "new guy" status as these products are brand new for me.
> 
> I've read a lot that said the Aquaeros could not control a PWM D5 pump out of the box at one point. I see that Aquacomputer now makes a PWM D5 pump themselves. So is this issue resolved or no? I picked up a new EK PWM D5 for this project and trying to figure out if this will work or if I have to do something else.
> 
> Probably a dumb question, but if a part says it's compatible with Aquaero 5, is it safe to assume it will work with the 6 series also? Specifically looking at this: http://www.performance-pcs.com/aquacomputer-flow-rate-sensor-mps-flow-200-g1-4.html#Features
> 
> Thanks for the assist!


Both the aquacomputer d5 and the new revision of EK´s d5 are out of the box compatible with Aquaeros


----------



## Bear907

Thank you for the reply. I won't change my build plans for now then, and will test it out here in a week or so. Cheers!


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bear907*
> 
> Greetings folks. I just ordered up an Aquaero 6 Pro. Finally jumping ship from manual FC's!
> 
> I've tried to poke thru this huge thread, but I'm left with a few questions that I'm hoping someone can assist with. Please forgive the "new guy" status as these products are brand new for me.
> 
> I've read a lot that said the Aquaeros could not control a PWM D5 pump out of the box at one point. I see that Aquacomputer now makes a PWM D5 pump themselves. So is this issue resolved or no? I picked up a new EK PWM D5 for this project and trying to figure out if this will work or if I have to do something else.
> 
> Probably a dumb question, but if a part says it's compatible with Aquaero 5, is it safe to assume it will work with the 6 series also? Specifically looking at this: http://www.performance-pcs.com/aquacomputer-flow-rate-sensor-mps-flow-200-g1-4.html#Features
> 
> Thanks for the assist!


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *willemdoom*
> 
> Both the aquacomputer d5 and the new revision of EK´s d5 are out of the box compatible with Aquaeros


Willemdoom is correct for the the new EK D5 pwm model but for old ek (and others re-brands) no it would not be compatible out of the box. Do you have the pump already? If you are just buying the d5 now then the Aquacomputer one (PWM) is compatible and the new EK is also compatible as Will said. MPS400 or 200 will be compatible with Aquaero. However consider getting the mps 400 since the 200 can be a bit on the lower limit to our loops set up. MPS400 is good up to ~2 GPM


----------



## Bear907

The pump arrived last week from Performance PPS - EK-PWM-D5 motor only so I should be good then. After doing some more looking around at reviews, I think I'm leaning more towards the AC high flow meter now. Both will a challenge to fit in the new BH7 cases though. A flow meter isn't 100% necessary of course, but may as well jump into the Aquaero feature set with both feet right?


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bear907*
> 
> The pump arrived last week from Performance PPS - EK-PWM-D5 motor only so I should be good then. After doing some more looking around at reviews, I think I'm leaning more towards the AC high flow meter now. Both will a challenge to fit in the new BH7 cases though. A flow meter isn't 100% necessary of course, but may as well jump into the Aquaero feature set with both feet right?


If an EK PWM D5 is not Specifically Identified as GEN2, it IS NOT "Out of the Box" compatible with the Aquaeros and will need the Diva Mod to work with the A5 or A6.

If you can return it for the AquaComputer branded one, since it's brand new, it would be the easiest thing to do.

EK claims to be transitioning to having GEN 2 only, but they have a lot of existing stock to unload first . . . Probably the same for their down-line sellers.

Darlene


----------



## Bear907

Ok, good to know. I'll have to check it later tonite. Thank you


----------



## 44TZL

Sorry just picked up on this compatibility thing.. I got an EK D5 pump combo couple of weeks ago (straight from EK), and just plugged the PWM cables into the PWM outlet of the 5LT.. and it's working totally fine. Or am I missing something?


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *44TZL*
> 
> Sorry just picked up on this compatibility thing.. I got an EK D5 pump combo couple of weeks ago (straight from EK), and just plugged the PWM cables into the PWM outlet of the 5LT.. and it's working totally fine. Or am I missing something?


The 5 series was electrically much different from the newer 6 series, and using it with the PWM D5's is kind of a crap shoot.

Sometimes it works fine, and other times it doesn't, even for the same user in the same system.

Working fine today doesn't guarantee working fine tomorrow.

As long as yours is doing OK, count your blessings . . .

If it acts up, the Diva mod works with the 5 series too.

Darlene


----------



## 44TZL

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> The 5 series was electrically much different from the newer 6 series, and using it with the PWM D5's is kind of a crap shoot.
> 
> Sometimes it works fine, and other times it doesn't, even for the same user in the same system.
> 
> Working fine today doesn't guarantee working fine tomorrow.
> 
> As long as yours is doing OK, count your blessings . . .
> 
> If it acts up, the Diva mod works with the 5 series too.
> 
> Darlene


Ic. Found your post with the Diva Mod.. too easy and thank you.
So I guess the effect would be without it, and probably at low duty cycles, you'd loose pwm control and the pump spins up to 60%?


----------



## SynchroSCP

Interesting...so is the Aquacomputer D5 PWM the only one that will play nice with my 6 XT?


----------



## fast_fate

To the best of my knowledge.....

The latest EK PWM Gen2 D5 pumps are EK branded and are reported to be working with Aquaero straight out of the box.



The previous generation (from EK) had Lowara branding and required the Diva mod to work correctly with Aquaero.


----------



## Bear907

Got busy at work last night so I couldn't check, but I'll look tonite and see what the labels show. The part listing and the invoice from performance-pcs doesn't say anything about gen 1 or gen 2.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fast_fate*
> 
> To the best of my knowledge.....
> 
> The latest EK PWM Gen2 D5 pumps are EK branded and are reported to be working with Aquaero straight out of the box.
> 
> 
> 
> The previous generation (from EK) had Lowara branding and required the Diva mod to work correctly with Aquaero.


exactly this.


----------



## Newtocooling

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*





exactly this.

Damn I have to go home and check mine now. I just ordered one that was on special at PPCS only 69.99


----------



## Newtocooling

Well I checked when I got home last night and I do have the older version Lowara brand. If you"re looking for a D5 that works out of the box with your Aquaero...... don't get the PPCS one that is on sale right now 22% off.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Newtocooling*
> 
> Well I checked when I got home last night and I do have the older version Lowara brand. If you"re looking for a D5 that works out of the box with your Aquaero...... don't get the PPCS one that is on sale right now 22% off.


Looks like they are trying to move out old stock to make way before offering the GEN2 . . . otherwise they'd never get rid of it, if the GEN 2 was available concurrently.

I've bought a few of the on-sale D5s to take advantage of the savings, since I already have plenty of Diva Mod parts . . .









Darlene


----------



## Newtocooling

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Looks like they are trying to move out old stock to make way before offering the GEN2 . . . otherwise they'd never get rid of it, if the GEN 2 was available concurrently.
> 
> I've bought a few of the on-sale D5s to take advantage of the savings, since I already have plenty of Diva Mod parts . . .
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Darlene


Lucky you...... I don't have your electrical skill.







I'm more likely to cause a house fire...So I'll just plug this one into the Asus Pump Header, and control it that way.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Newtocooling*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Looks like they are trying to move out old stock to make way before offering the GEN2 . . . otherwise they'd never get rid of it, if the GEN 2 was available concurrently.
> 
> I've bought a few of the on-sale D5s to take advantage of the savings, since I already have plenty of Diva Mod parts . . .
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Darlene
> 
> 
> 
> Lucky you...... I don't have your electrical skill.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm more likely to cause a house fire...So I'll just plug this one into the Asus Pump Header, and control it that way.
Click to expand...

That'll be just fine . . . .

Pump speed is pretty much a set and forget thing, once you get the system bled anyway.


----------



## Bear907

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Looks like they are trying to move out old stock to make way before offering the GEN2 . . . otherwise they'd never get rid of it, if the GEN 2 was available concurrently.
> 
> I've bought a few of the on-sale D5s to take advantage of the savings, since I already have plenty of Diva Mod parts . . .
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Darlene


It must be luck of the draw. I got the one that was on sale over Memorial Day weekend, and looks like I got a Gen 2 from the pics. Here's mine.


----------



## bfedorov11

I have an aquaero 6 pro tucked into a small matx case so I cannot use the remote. What is the IR led port? Can I hook something up so I can use the remote without it hitting the front of the case? I've seached the main site and retailers and nothing shows up for IR.


----------



## 44TZL

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bear907*
> 
> It must be luck of the draw. I got the one that was on sale over Memorial Day weekend, and looks like I got a Gen 2 from the pics. Here's mine.


Nice sleeving! That's what I need to do..


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bfedorov11*
> 
> I have an aquaero 6 pro tucked into a small matx case so I cannot use the remote. What is the IR led port? Can I hook something up so I can use the remote without it hitting the front of the case? I've seached the main site and retailers and nothing shows up for IR.


more or less it is for an ir passthrough that @Shoggy wont release...for stuff like htpc ( although i have been hounding him about it for well over a year, and they have had it since aq 5. i wish they would either make it, or get rid of the header......... would be epic for htpcs though .......)

so no you cant do what you want, it is for output only afaik


----------



## galletabah

hi guys, i have a little question.
What can i connect in the rgb led conector?

Can i connect a leds strips?
four white 3mm leds for waterblock (3.4 V, 20mA)?

I want leave the molex for the leds

Thanks guys!


----------



## GTXJackBauer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *galletabah*
> 
> hi guys, i have a little question.
> What can i connect in the rgb led conector?
> 
> Can i connect a leds strips?
> four white 3mm leds for waterblock (3.4 V, 20mA)?
> 
> I want leave the molex for the leds
> 
> Thanks guys!


This little guy plugs into that.

As for LED strips, that would be the Farbwerk.


----------



## galletabah

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GTXJackBauer*
> 
> This little guy plugs into that.
> 
> As for LED strips, that would be the Farbwerk.


I have no more room for the farbwerk :V
I think I will use only leds strip and no 3mm led
Thanks!


----------



## GTXJackBauer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *galletabah*
> 
> I have no more room for the farbwerk :V
> I think I will use only leds strip and no 3mm led
> Thanks!


Than purchase another Farbwerk.









I wouldn't go plugging in strips on that header as it can only handle a certain amount. That LED I linked you was designed for that header.


----------



## Mega Man

The rgb is 3 led channels. But iirc like .6a? Going from memory I would recheck if I were to use it.

However I would use the PWM ports as they are not rgb leds and the port is higher rating (1a)


----------



## jsutter71

What is the maximum length for a Aqua bus cable. Is 42" to long?


----------



## Mega Man

It would be pretty long as you can iirc connect via aquabus to their external rads


----------



## LotusOmega

Shoggy posed this in the Aquacomputer forum, back in Aug. 2012:

_The maximum length will depend on many things and will also vary from system to system. Keep that as short as possible.

2.5m already sounds very critical to me._

Don't know if it's still relevant...


----------



## jsutter71

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LotusOmega*
> 
> Shoggy posed this in the Aquacomputer forum, back in Aug. 2012:
> 
> _The maximum length will depend on many things and will also vary from system to system. Keep that as short as possible.
> 
> 2.5m already sounds very critical to me._
> 
> Don't know if it's still relevant...


Well for my situation, 42 inches is roughly 1.07 meters so I should be fine. This is for me MPS 400 in the bottom compartment of my STH10 to the Aquaero 6XT in the top drive bay. After I made the cable, It tested fine sending power and control to my PWM fans, but I wasn't sure about other types of data signals such as the ones used by the Aquaero.


----------



## inoran81

And here it comes....









Pretty neat stuffs from aqc, Sven!


----------



## Ninhalem

So what is that a PWM Splitter and something to do with USB power?


----------



## inoran81

Two different products bro. Only is 3/pwm/aquabus splitter. Another is a USB 2 hub powered by SATA

The splitter concept is quite clever as it has a jumper to set it to either aquabus or 3/pwm splitter. I wish they will have one that switch this mode for every 3-4 connectors instead of all 9 connectors.


----------



## Shoggy

Unfortunately I had no time so far to translate the announcement for our English forum.

Just as clarification: The S-ATA plug on the hub is not necessary to make it work. It can provide a bit more additional power for hungry stuff but USB only is enough to connect our USB devices like an aquaero, a pump and some sensors for example.


----------



## Bear907

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bear907*
> 
> It must be luck of the draw. I got the one that was on sale over Memorial Day weekend, and looks like I got a Gen 2 from the pics. Here's mine.


Looks like I did get lucky getting that Gen 2 for the sale price. Performance PCS is now selling the EK D5 Gen 2 for full price 89.99.

http://www.performance-pcs.com/ek-d5-pwm-g2-motor-12v-dc-pwm-pump-motor.html


----------



## Newtocooling

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *inoran81*
> 
> And here it comes....
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Pretty neat stuffs from aqc, Sven!
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Does the splitter have only one rpm reporting fan channel, so it has no trouble with accurate rpm on the Aquaero?


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Newtocooling*
> 
> [/SPOILER]
> 
> Does the splitter have only one rpm reporting fan channel, so it has no trouble with accurate rpm on the Aquaero?


That is what has been said!! Plus you can see a jumper on it so should be able to select how you want it


----------



## Newtocooling

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> That is what has been said!! Plus you can see a jumper on it so should be able to select how you want it


Okay sorry I missed earlier post on the splitter. I'm just happy to see another splitter option that doesn't need modding.


----------



## Vindicare

Hey guys, just setup my WC system, just a 360 rad and cpu block (plan to get my gfxs in the future also if all goes well).

anyway i bought a 6 XT and i have one of the new EK pumps and it's working flawlessly.

do you guys have any tips on how i should configure my curve?

i have a default one with starting temprature at 25ºC i have the fans and the pump on this curve PWM controlled as spec from 20 to 100% speed.


----------



## Vindicare

ok got off my lazy bum and installed a second temprature probe in front of the fans in the outside of the case.

this reads the ambient temprature, so then i made a new virtual temprature probe that reads the delta from ambient to the water temprature.

i then setup this virtual sensor has the curve source and reprogrammed the curve to go from 2 to 15ºC is this ok?

i read somewhere that a diffrence from 5 to 10 degrees celcius is best


----------



## GTXJackBauer

I just use a water temp sensor on the OUT of one of the rads. I set the water temp range starting from 30c and ending with 35c being the max. Of course I'm not running the pumps at max but just enough to get me to 1.0 GPM and the audibles aren't so loud. Same with fans. But this time I bump the fans to 100% since they're only in push configuration and see the most change in temps otherwise the water temps get too warm for my liking, about 38c-40c.

Debating if I should change all my Helix120 PWM fans (x9) for GTs PWM but that would cost me $250+ unfortunately just to change 9 fans but I've heard the Helix120s aren't so far off the audibles and performance from GTs.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Vindicare*
> 
> Hey guys, just setup my WC system, just a 360 rad and cpu block (plan to get my gfxs in the future also if all goes well).
> 
> anyway i bought a 6 XT and i have one of the new EK pumps and it's working flawlessly.
> 
> do you guys have any tips on how i should configure my curve?
> 
> i have a default one with starting temprature at 25ºC i have the fans and the pump on this curve PWM controlled as spec from 20 to 100% speed.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Vindicare*
> 
> ok got off my lazy bum and installed a second temprature probe in front of the fans in the outside of the case.
> 
> this reads the ambient temprature, so then i made a new virtual temprature probe that reads the delta from ambient to the water temprature.
> 
> i then setup this virtual sensor has the curve source and reprogrammed the curve to go from 2 to 15ºC is this ok?
> 
> i read somewhere that a diffrence from 5 to 10 degrees celcius is best


Pumps are really a set and forget item when it comes to speed control . . .

Once you have the system bled, you really don't need to change the pup's speed.

As long as you have a sufficient minimum flow rate to have turbulent flow thru all the rads, much additional flow rate does little to nothing for additional cooling.

Fan speed has orders of magnitude more effect on temps than additional pump speed.

Put the pump on its own channel, and start out at max while running some benchmark or Aida64 stress test . . .

then after it stabilizes after 30 to 45 minutes, start slowing the pump down in roughly 600 to 800 rpm increments, and let stabilize again..

At some point, you should find that the temps went up by a significant amount, not just a degree or two that could be the margin of error for the test.

When you find the point where the temps went back up, set the pump back up 500 to 600 rpm and you found the golden spot.

If you for some reason you run into a noisy range from resonance or something, just stay a bit above.

The only time you might have reason to have a curve for the pump, would be if you have something like a HTPC where it often runs with hardly any load and you want it very quiet . . . .

You could have the pump on a step curve, where at very minimal temps or delta t, it would be at a very minimal speed, and as temps came up a little, it went to a higher speed

You'd have the fan curve so that once the pump speed stepped up, or slightly before, you'd have the fans start ramping up as well.

That way you could have very minimal noise, as long as the PC was at minimal load.

Darlene


----------



## jsutter71

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *inoran81*
> 
> And here it comes....
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Pretty neat stuffs from aqc, Sven!


I purchased the fan/ Aquabus splitter last week and I'm waiting delivery from DHL. I currently have all my Aquabus connections connected to a modmytoys splitter.

*I have a question.*
I am using both USB and Aquabus connections for all my Aqua computer devices. The USB connections are all centralized through a USB hub. With the Aquasuite software, I am able to control all my devices through USB with no issues. When I disconnect the USB to all the devices except for the Aquaero, I am no longer able to see the other devices even though the devices are still connected through Aquabus. Is this normal?


----------



## GTXJackBauer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jsutter71*
> 
> I am using both USB and Aquabus connections for all my Aqua computer devices. The USB connections are all centralized through a USB hub. With the Aquasuite software, I am able to control all my devices through USB with no issues. When I disconnect the USB to all the devices except for the Aquaero, I am no longer able to see the other devices even though the devices are still connected through Aquabus. Is this normal?


You need to switch the devices to the Aquaero via Aquabus for control through the Aquasuite software before you disconnect the USB connections to them.


----------



## jsutter71

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GTXJackBauer*
> 
> You need to switch the devices to the Aquaero via Aquabus for control through the Aquasuite software before you disconnect the USB connections to them.


Thee devices are connected by both Aquabus and USB at the same time. It is when I disconnect the USB that I am unable to see the devices. Maybe my splitter is not working properly.


----------



## RDKing2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jsutter71*
> 
> Thee devices are connected by both Aquabus and USB at the same time. It is when I disconnect the USB that I am unable to see the devices. Maybe my splitter is not working properly.


Did not notice what devices you have connected. When connected one at a time can you see them? If all are mps devices you must change the address on two devices to see them all at the same time. There are four mps address available. The address can be changed when you have it connected via usb. There are eight power adjust address available, two for farbwerk.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jsutter71*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *GTXJackBauer*
> 
> You need to switch the devices to the Aquaero via Aquabus for control through the Aquasuite software before you disconnect the USB connections to them.
> 
> 
> 
> Thee devices are connected by both Aquabus and USB at the same time. It is when I disconnect the USB that I am unable to see the devices. Maybe my splitter is not working properly.
Click to expand...

As he just told you you need to verify You set both the aquabus addresses and aquabus priority and changes them if needed.

Also generally speaking they are not in the same location in Aquasuite when set to aquabus


----------



## ruffhi

I ordered these ...

Aquacomputer aquaero 6 PRO USB

Aquacomputer Passive heat sink for aquaero 6, black

Aquacomputer faceplate for aquaero 5 and 6 PRO Aluminium black

Aquacomputer flow rate sensor "high flow USB" G1/4

They are currently enjoying the weekend in Philly ... UPS should attempt to deliver it on Tuesday (needs a signature







).


----------



## DerComissar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ruffhi*
> 
> I ordered these ...
> 
> Aquacomputer aquaero 6 PRO USB
> 
> Aquacomputer Passive heat sink for aquaero 6, black
> 
> Aquacomputer faceplate for aquaero 5 and 6 PRO Aluminium black
> 
> Aquacomputer flow rate sensor "high flow USB" G1/4
> 
> They are currently enjoying the weekend in Philly ... UPS should attempt to deliver it on Tuesday (needs a signature
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ).



Sorry Diva, the devil made me do it, lol.

That is going to be one fine shipment, ruffhi.


----------



## Vindicare

ok weird problem.

when my controller says its sending 0% power the fans get at full rpm .... ??

ím using an externally powered fan hub might it be because of that?

should i run the fans directly from the aquaero? i dont have any kind of heatsink so im afraif of it getting too hot, will 6 120mm fans tax the aquaero a lot?


----------



## jsutter71

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DerComissar*
> 
> 
> Sorry Diva, the devil made me do it, lol.
> 
> That is going to be one fine shipment, ruffhi.


Ok That one is funny!!!! But, I've been to Philly and I never saw a UPS worker that looked like her.


----------



## Dagamus NM

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Vindicare*
> 
> ok weird problem.
> 
> when my controller says its sending 0% power the fans get at full rpm .... ??
> 
> ím using an externally powered fan hub might it be because of that?
> 
> should i run the fans directly from the aquaero? i dont have any kind of heatsink so im afraif of it getting too hot, will 6 120mm fans tax the aquaero a lot?


Well it depends on the amperage of the fans, but even the highest draw fans out there the aquaero should be able to run at least a couple off of each header. You will be totally fine.


----------



## DerComissar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jsutter71*
> 
> Ok That one is funny!!!! But, I've been to Philly and I never saw a UPS worker that looked like her.


No?
She's my regular driver, keeps me ordering lots of stuff.

Ok, would you believe a grouchy overweight guy, who throws the package at my house?
That's what I get, lol.!

Aquaero related tale:
I had my AQ6 delivered by our equivalent of USPS, and it got here in great shape, delivered by a responsible lady.
But not the one in the photo though, lol.


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DerComissar*
> 
> 
> Sorry Diva, the devil made me do it, lol.
> 
> That is going to be one fine shipment, ruffhi.


Where did you get the picture of my wife?? And she does work for ups but if i catch her dressing like that outside the house they will be hell to pay


----------



## DerComissar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *DerComissar*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sorry Diva, the devil made me do it, lol.
> 
> That is going to be one fine shipment, ruffhi.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Where did you get the picture of my wife?? And she does work for ups but if i catch her dressing like that outside the house they will be hell to pay
Click to expand...

Sorry seross69, I didn't realize that was your wife, you sly guy!


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DerComissar*
> 
> Sorry seross69, I didn't realize that was your wife, you sly guy!


????


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Vindicare*
> 
> ok weird problem.
> 
> when my controller says its sending 0% power the fans get at full rpm .... ??
> 
> ím using an externally powered fan hub might it be because of that?
> 
> should i run the fans directly from the aquaero? i dont have any kind of heatsink so im afraif of it getting too hot, will 6 120mm fans tax the aquaero a lot?


Yea set out to 1% and you will be fine
When the aq sets pwm to 0% it sends nothing on the PWM line and shuts off the 12v.

Since yours are powered externally

They get nothing on pwm line and voltage on power line. Hence full speed
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dagamus NM*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Vindicare*
> 
> ok weird problem.
> 
> when my controller says its sending 0% power the fans get at full rpm .... ??
> 
> ím using an externally powered fan hub might it be because of that?
> 
> should i run the fans directly from the aquaero? i dont have any kind of heatsink so im afraif of it getting too hot, will 6 120mm fans tax the aquaero a lot?
> 
> 
> 
> Well it depends on the amperage of the fans, but even the highest draw fans out there the aquaero should be able to run at least a couple off of each header. You will be totally fine.
Click to expand...

My fans will seriously damage it


----------



## Artah

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> Where did you get the picture of my wife?? And she does work for ups but if i catch her dressing like that outside the house they will be hell to pay


I encourage my wife to dress like that when we go out.... Looks like that box is not heavy at all though the way she's holding it.


----------



## Dagamus NM

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> Yea set out to 1% and you will be fine
> When the aq sets pwm to 0% it sends nothing on the PWM line and shuts off the 12v.
> 
> Since yours are powered externally
> 
> They get nothing on pwm line and voltage on power line. Hence full speed
> My fans will seriously damage it


You have some specialty fans mega.


----------



## GTXJackBauer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Artah*
> 
> Looks like that box is not heavy at all though the way she's holding it.


For all we know it could be an Aquaero 6 in that box with some accessories.


----------



## DerComissar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GTXJackBauer*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Artah*
> 
> Looks like that box is not heavy at all though the way she's holding it.
> 
> 
> 
> For all we know it could be an Aquaero 6 in that box with some accessories.
Click to expand...

Well of course it is!


----------



## Vindicare

ok so i put my fans directly into the aquaero











do you think this curve is ok?

does it make sense?

source is a delta from water temprature minus ambient temprature.

goes from 0 to 15 degrees celcius.


----------



## Dagamus NM

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Vindicare*
> 
> ok so i put my fans directly into the aquaero
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> do you think this curve is ok?
> 
> does it make sense?
> 
> source is a delta from water temprature minus ambient temprature.
> 
> goes from 0 to 15 degrees celcius.


Not bad. Run it and see if you can keep your loop at proper temp without having your fans at 100% all of the time.


----------



## jsutter71

*Reservoir is failing my leak test!!!!*

OK This is the deal. My Aqualis base with fountain and LED is failing the my leak test. It's a big one to. As soon I pour the water in the reservoir, The water flow's out the entrance point where the LED wires go through. I took it apart to determine if everything is sealed properly and ensured that their was a gasket between the plastic cover covering the LED's and the LED holes themselves. Does anyone have any suggestions?????





Also, what's up with this extra hole???Is this a mistake in the manufacture process????


----------



## Shoggy

As already written in the e-mail I am pretty sure that your pump adapter is not configured the right way. You have to insert a sealing screw (included) into the outer thread because otherwise you will have an open hole between the base and the adapter. Of course the water will easily run out there as soon as you fill some in.

The hole in the half-moon Plexiglas part has no usage for this product variant. The aqualis XT variants (stand alone) use this hole to move water into a side channel for the fill level sensor.


----------



## Vindicare

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dagamus NM*
> 
> Not bad. Run it and see if you can keep your loop at proper temp without having your fans at 100% all of the time.


I have increased the max temprature to 20ºc, delta temprature during normal load is something like 8ºc and fans are at below 50%.

i just dont know what the correct numbers should be, i read that equal or below 10ºc delta temprature is good.


----------



## GTXJackBauer

Here's a nice Delta-T chart I grabbed a while back from Swiftech.



Have you increased your fans to see the temp differences? Play around with that and get comfortable with what you want and make sure your pump flow is in the 1.0-1.5 GPM sweet spot.


----------



## ruffhi

What is the solution to this issue with the thingo and the passive heat sink?










I've emailed AquaTuning USA and will see what they say. That little thingo is stopping the passive heat sink from bedding down. I am pretty sure I saw this reported somewhere else.


----------



## Ironsmack

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Vindicare*
> 
> I have increased the max temprature to 20ºc, delta temprature during normal load is something like 8ºc and fans are at below 50%.
> 
> i just dont know what the correct numbers should be, i read that equal or below 10ºc delta temprature is good.


There's no correct numbers. I view the below 10C delta a guideline and according to your preference. If it falls within that delta, you're good man







.

My delta with my computer is between 6C (no load) to 8.5ish C (with load), with my fans running (below 1500 RPM).

I set my loop up based on my temp preference and noise tolerance.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ruffhi*
> 
> What is the solution to this issue with the thingo and the passive heat sink?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've emailed AquaTuning USA and will see what they say. That little thingo is stopping the passive heat sink from bedding down. I am pretty sure I saw this reported somewhere else.


If I recall correctly you can push it sideways a bit to make room for the heatsink and will end up been between the side panel and the heatsink. Send a message to Shoggy.


----------



## ruffhi

Thx Gabrielzm ... PM away. I tried pushing it out of the way but it still caught on the heatsink and squished the connectors.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ruffhi*
> 
> Thx Gabrielzm ... PM away. I tried pushing it out of the way but it still caught on the heatsink and squished the connectors.


mmmm. Found an earlier discussion about it:

http://www.overclock.net/t/1474470/ocn-aquaero-owners-club/3110#post_23420130


----------



## ruffhi

Thx Gabrielzm. (+REP). I thought I had seen something earlier (like in about the last 8 months) and (IIRC) the general suggestion was to desolder the brown thing and resolder it so it isn't so tall / proud. Unfortunately, I don't have those sort of solder skills.


----------



## jsutter71

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> As already written in the e-mail I am pretty sure that your pump adapter is not configured the right way. You have to insert a sealing screw (included) into the outer thread because otherwise you will have an open hole between the base and the adapter. Of course the water will easily run out there as soon as you fill some in.
> 
> The hole in the half-moon Plexiglas part has no usage for this product variant. The aqualis XT variants (stand alone) use this hole to move water into a side channel for the fill level sensor.


You are the MAN Shoggy

[


----------



## DerComissar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ruffhi*
> 
> Thx Gabrielzm. (+REP). I thought I had seen something earlier (like in about the last 8 months) and (IIRC) the general suggestion was to desolder the brown thing and resolder it so it isn't so tall / proud. Unfortunately, I don't have those sort of solder skills.


Holy moly.

Looks like the Diva ground, filed, dremelled, whatever, the notch in the heatsink a bit more, to clear it.
Imo, I'd rather do that, than desoldering/resoldering that part.

I just recently bought my AQ6, and the heatsink, so I'll take a look at it tonite to see if it has that issue as well.


----------



## Dagamus NM

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Vindicare*
> 
> I have increased the max temprature to 20ºc, delta temprature during normal load is something like 8ºc and fans are at below 50%.
> 
> i just dont know what the correct numbers should be, i read that equal or below 10ºc delta temprature is good.


That is a nice delta. Just tune it so that you maintain the delta you want with an acceptable fan noise level. There is no single delta you need to maintain, if you load your cpu and gpu and still keep it low then you have a sweet spot and don't need more fan.


----------



## jsutter71

Just arrived in the mail. It's much smaller then I thought it would be. Build quality is outstanding as usual.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ruffhi*
> 
> What is the solution to this issue with the thingo and the passive heat sink?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've emailed AquaTuning USA and will see what they say. That little thingo is stopping the passive heat sink from bedding down. I am pretty sure I saw this reported somewhere else.


It's one of those little things that's supposedly been fixed . . . . .

But we keep seeing it.

Best advice I can think of is get out the dremel tool and a little carbide cutter.

I just routinely do it to every passive heatsink before I even try to put it on, and then I know I'm good to go.

D.


----------



## ruffhi

Darlene ... it turns out that I do have a Carbine tool in my dremel kit. So ... backup plan available. I'll wait and see what Aquatuning have to say.

Thanks for the post.


----------



## DerComissar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *ruffhi*
> 
> What is the solution to this issue with the thingo and the passive heat sink?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've emailed AquaTuning USA and will see what they say. That little thingo is stopping the passive heat sink from bedding down. I am pretty sure I saw this reported somewhere else.
> 
> 
> 
> It's one of those little things that's supposedly been fixed . . . . .
> 
> But we keep seeing it.
> 
> Best advice I can think of is get out the dremel tool and a little carbide cutter.
> 
> I just routinely do it to every passive heatsink before I even try to put it on, and then I know I'm good to go.
> 
> D.
Click to expand...

Just checked mine, same deal.

At first glance, the heastsink appears to fit fine. But looking at the posts on the bottom of the heatsink, they don't make contact with the pcb, and have quite a gap, from the sink pressing against that piece.

Time to bust out the Dremel.

Sigh.
Aquacomputer, I am disappoint.


Rep+'s, for making me aware of this, and preventing me from mashing that thingy, lol.


----------



## GTXJackBauer

I also had some issues fitting mine but after a few attempts, I checked the thermal pads which showed signs of contact and made sure the heatsink looked leveled with the PCB. Have been fine ever since.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dagamus NM*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Vindicare*
> 
> I have increased the max temprature to 20ºc, delta temprature during normal load is something like 8ºc and fans are at below 50%.
> 
> i just dont know what the correct numbers should be, i read that equal or below 10ºc delta temprature is good.
> 
> 
> 
> That is a nice delta. Just tune it so that you maintain the delta you want with an acceptable fan noise level. There is no single delta you need to maintain, if you load your cpu and gpu and still keep it low then you have a sweet spot and don't need more fan.
Click to expand...

Ha ha ha I must keep my delta below 5c (my OC thing). I sit right around 2c always...even with 3/4s of my fans off....


----------



## Vindicare

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> Ha ha ha I must keep my delta below 5c (my OC thing). I sit right around 2c always...even with 3/4s of my fans off....


2º Celcius?!

how many rads you have?

for now i have the cpu block and a 360, i´m planning on adding 2 vga blocks and another 360 rad it's more then enough right?


----------



## ruffhi

D
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ruffhi*
> 
> What is the solution to this issue with the thingo and the passive heat sink?
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've emailed AquaTuning USA and will see what they say. That little thingo is stopping the passive heat sink from bedding down. I am pretty sure I saw this reported somewhere else.


I PM'd shoggy and he got back to me asking if I had an old heatsink (I don't think I do). He mentioned bending the brown thing out of the way or letting the heatsink push down on it ... as long as the little legs don't touch.

I'm going to dremel the top off that cutout so the brown thing can poke out the top.

*Edit*: Done. Dremelling complete. And the heat sink actually got hot from the dremel action. Heat sink installed, Aquaero installed. Now to start running a bunch of cables to it. I've got my Aquaero in the top slot ... furthest away from the cables ... but I think it will look better there (in the end).


----------



## rioja

Are they going to present AE7 in nearest future?


----------



## GTXJackBauer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rioja*
> 
> Are they going to present AE7 in nearest future?


I'm sure something's in the works but they won't tell us. I told them to give us a color LED screen next time around.







I think we're in the range of something coming out. I think they come out with a AQ upgrade every 5 years?


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Vindicare*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> Ha ha ha I must keep my delta below 5c (my OC thing). I sit right around 2c always...even with 3/4s of my fans off....
> 
> 
> 
> 2º Celcius?!
> 
> how many rads you have?
> 
> for now i have the cpu block and a 360, i´m planning on adding 2 vga blocks and another 360 rad it's more then enough right?
Click to expand...

one has 5 480s other 5 360s


----------



## Vindicare

Holy!?

is that 2 systems or 2 loops?

5 480!? what case you have!?

thats WC heaven!


----------



## Mega Man

2 systems. 360s is a m8 with ped (all are monstas could use a 6th but I want the space for other things.

480s th10. 3 monstas 1*ut60 1*xt45 iirc or 30mm ...

My tx10 will be far larger per system (case holds a minimum of 2 systems) but I am waiting atm for funds and frankly a system worth upgrading to


----------



## Zaca

Hi guys.

I have a litle problem with my aquaero 6 XT.

I connect a Thermaltake Riing 14 LED RGB 256 Colors - 140mm Fan PWM - Triple Pack to the channel 3 and I can get any reading rpm.

I connect the 4-pin cable directly from the distributer of fans to aquero like this photo.



Does anyone can give me a help to solve this problem?


----------



## psycho84

Cable for my 2 MoRa's


----------



## ruffhi

I've just installed my Aquaero and I am starting to run power cables, fan cables, pump cables, temperature cables, cable cables, etc. I can see why people want / need to label these cables.

Anyway, my first temperature cable is a liquid sensor and I have attached it to temp sensor #1. I have also put a small white dot on the 2 pin plug. My second temperature cable is coming from one in front of the fans that push air through radiator #1.

My questions are ... is this too close? To far away? Might it be sucked into the fans?

I am going to secure it in place with a little sphere of blue tac.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zaca*
> 
> Hi guys.
> 
> I have a litle problem with my aquaero 6 XT.
> 
> I connect a Thermaltake Riing 14 LED RGB 256 Colors - 140mm Fan PWM - Triple Pack to the channel 3 and I can get any reading rpm.
> 
> I connect the 4-pin cable directly from the distributer of fans to aquero like this photo.
> 
> 
> 
> Does anyone can give me a help to solve this problem?


Don't known that fan splitter but the pic suggests all channels are reporting the rpm to aquaero which might explain the readings rpm problem. If all 3 fan talk with the aquaero at the same time he can not listen...

@ruffhi I would try to secure just the edge of the sensor on the fan screw.


----------



## ruffhi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> @ruffhi I would try to secure just the edge of the sensor on the fan screw.


Thx Gabrielzm ... I can do that. However, the first time I read your post I was a little concerned as I read it as ...

_I would try to secure just the edge of the sensor on the fan blade_


----------



## Ironsmack

@ruffhi I got both of my ambient temp sensor in front of the fan and rad (where there's airflow flowing through them).


----------



## Artah

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zaca*
> 
> Hi guys.
> 
> I have a litle problem with my aquaero 6 XT.
> 
> I connect a Thermaltake Riing 14 LED RGB 256 Colors - 140mm Fan PWM - Triple Pack to the channel 3 and I can get any reading rpm.
> 
> I connect the 4-pin cable directly from the distributer of fans to aquero like this photo.
> 
> 
> 
> Does anyone can give me a help to solve this problem?


Are you connecting the 4PIN port from the RIING control box to the AQ6, what I mean is that you didn't plug in the 4PIN extension cable to a 5PIN port on the control box accidentally? It should work but be sure to have a RIING fan connected to the port with a white dot that's how it picks up the RPM signal. If it does not work, switch a different fan in because maybe the fan signal on the one you have plugged in there does not work.


----------



## SloppyDingo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Artah*
> 
> Are you connecting the 4PIN port from the RIING control box to the AQ6, what I mean is that you didn't plug in the 4PIN extension cable to a 5PIN port on the control box accidentally? It should work but be sure to have a RIING fan connected to the port with a white dot that's how it picks up the RPM signal. If it does not work, switch a different fan in because maybe the fan signal on the one you have plugged in there does not work.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zaca*
> 
> Hi guys.
> 
> I have a litle problem with my aquaero 6 XT.
> 
> I connect a Thermaltake Riing 14 LED RGB 256 Colors - 140mm Fan PWM - Triple Pack to the channel 3 and I can get any reading rpm.
> 
> I connect the 4-pin cable directly from the distributer of fans to aquero like this photo.
> 
> 
> 
> Does anyone can give me a help to solve this problem?


I looked into getting these fans but wanted to be able to control them directly with the Aquero. From my research (and some speculation) I know for sure the RGB LEDs in the fan are standard, run of the mill LEDs with a lead for each red, green and blue diode with a fourth for ground. I THINK the actual color control happens inside of the control box then just outputs the correct PWM Frequency values to the individual leds to create a certain color, blink pattern etc. IF this is true, you SHOULD be able to control the LEDs directly with the Aquaero without the control box via PWM. As for fan speed, that leaves two wires. A ground that is shared with the LEDs and a + voltage wire. My guess is the controller manages fan RPM via a change in voltage or current and the RPM value is calculated inside the controller and outputted via PWM? It would be cool if we could do away with the controller all together and just use the Aquaero. Anyway, I'm rambling and not answering the question... Make sure you have one of the fans plugged into the output port that has a dot on it. That's the one that reports RPM back to whatever the PWM cable is plugged into. Also, make sure you are plugging the Aquaero into the four pin input port, not the five pin input port that's next to it. Aside from that, I googled your problem and found several similar posts on the thermaltake forum, all of which ended with one of Thermaltakes forum reps saying to send a PM. Do the fans report RPM when you plug them directly into a PWM header on your motherboard?? Are you able to control the fans RPM from the Aquaero?

Hope this helps...

**Edit** I'm an idiot, I totally forgot that Artah already brought up the white dot and five pin connector... Sorry


----------



## Artah

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SloppyDingo*
> 
> I looked into getting these fans but wanted to be able to control them directly with the Aquero. From my research (and some speculation) I know for sure the RGB LEDs in the fan are standard, run of the mill LEDs with a lead for each red, green and blue diode with a fourth for ground. I THINK the actual color control happens inside of the control box then just outputs the correct PWM Frequency values to the individual leds to create a certain color, blink pattern etc. IF this is true, you SHOULD be able to control the LEDs directly with the Aquaero without the control box via PWM. As for fan speed, that leaves two wires. A ground that is shared with the LEDs and a + voltage wire. My guess is the controller manages fan RPM via a change in voltage or current and the RPM value is calculated inside the controller and outputted via PWM? It would be cool if we could do away with the controller all together and just use the Aquaero. Anyway, I'm rambling and not answering the question... Make sure you have one of the fans plugged into the output port that has a dot on it. That's the one that reports RPM back to whatever the PWM cable is plugged into. Also, make sure you are plugging the Aquaero into the four pin input port, not the five pin input port that's next to it. Aside from that, I googled your problem and found several similar posts on the thermaltake forum, all of which ended with one of Thermaltakes forum reps saying to send a PM. Do the fans report RPM when you plug them directly into a PWM header on your motherboard?? Are you able to control the fans RPM from the Aquaero?
> 
> Hope this helps...
> 
> **Edit** I'm an idiot, I totally forgot that Artah already brought up the white dot and five pin connector... Sorry


Not sure it's a good idea to plug that fan directly because it has to be wired weird due to the fact that it takes multiple connections to control RGB and it has to be muxed in somehow along with the regular 4wire PWM fan. One thing I can tell you for sure is do not mix this with other fans like Noctua. I'm talking about using a y splitter to run the PWM lead of the TT module with another PWM fan in the same AQ6 channel because your AQ6 will not get a PWM reading because I have tried this myself today. One thing that will work is you can use a Y splitter for two PWM leads that goes to the TT modules. Again no other types of fans mixed with it.


----------



## SloppyDingo

Quote:


> Not sure it's a good idea to plug that fan directly because it has to be wired weird due to the fact that it takes multiple connections to control RGB and it has to be muxed in somehow along with the regular 4wire PWM fan. One thing I can tell you for sure is do not mix this with other fans like Noctua. I'm talking about using a y splitter to run the PWM lead of the TT module with another PWM fan in the same AQ6 channel because your AQ6 will not get a PWM reading because I have tried this myself today. One thing that will work is you can use a Y splitter for two PWM leads that goes to the TT modules. Again no other types of fans mixed with it.
> Edited by Artah - Today at 3:27 am


All RGB LEDs that I am aware of, regardless of if they are 5050 SMD, 3mm, 5mm etc. operate on the same basic principal. The faster the PWM frequency, the brighter the light. In most cases, this is scaled from 0 to 255. In reality, they are flashing, just at a much higher rate than our brains can "see". The slower the frequency, the dimmer the light appears is only because the blink rate is slower with more darkness between the pulses.

As for the potential of damaging the LEDs I find it highly unlikely. PWM signal is 3.3-5V, regardless if its for a LED or the speed signal into or out of a fan. So even if one of the three RGB signals are somehow muxed with the fans speed signal it wouldn't negatively affect the LEDs operation. You would probably just see some odd behavior from one of the colors in the LEDs.

I'm on a trip for my company right now. When I return home in a few weeks, I intend on purchasing one of these and one of the new Corsair LED fans to experiment with. My goal is to make the fan speed, telemetry as well as the RGB control independent and controllable from the RGB header and PWM header on the Aquaero... My current thought is that you should be able to just figure out what pins are for RGB and plug those wires directly into the RGB header of the Aquaero then possibly use the "fan control" as just a PWM splitter for the fan speed control and telemetry.

I am of course not suggesting anyone try anything they aren't comfortable with, just that in my professional experience I don't see much potential for damaging the LEDs or the fan by doing what I have explained. As I kinda said this is all gleaned from personal experience and what I have seen in pictures of the fan being taken apart. I will of course use a meter and my scope to determine what pins are what before I go hooking anything up.

Good article on RGB LED operation...
https://developer.mbed.org/users/4180_1/notebook/rgb-leds/


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SloppyDingo*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Not sure it's a good idea to plug that fan directly because it has to be wired weird due to the fact that it takes multiple connections to control RGB and it has to be muxed in somehow along with the regular 4wire PWM fan. One thing I can tell you for sure is do not mix this with other fans like Noctua. I'm talking about using a y splitter to run the PWM lead of the TT module with another PWM fan in the same AQ6 channel because your AQ6 will not get a PWM reading because I have tried this myself today. One thing that will work is you can use a Y splitter for two PWM leads that goes to the TT modules. Again no other types of fans mixed with it.
> Edited by Artah - Today at 3:27 am
> 
> 
> 
> *All RGB LEDs that I am aware of, regardless of if they are 5050 SMD, 3mm, 5mm etc. operate on the same basic principal. The faster the PWM frequency, the brighter the light. In most cases, this is scaled from 0 to 255.* In reality, they are flashing, just at a much higher rate than our brains can "see". The slower the frequency, the dimmer the light appears is only because the blink rate is slower with more darkness between the pulses.
> 
> As for the potential of damaging the LEDs I find it highly unlikely. PWM signal is 3.3-5V, regardless if its for a LED or the speed signal into or out of a fan. So even if one of the three RGB signals are somehow muxed with the fans speed signal it wouldn't negatively affect the LEDs operation. You would probably just see some odd behavior from one of the colors in the LEDs.
> 
> I'm on a trip for my company right now. When I return home in a few weeks, I intend on purchasing one of these and one of the new Corsair LED fans to experiment with. My goal is to make the fan speed, telemetry as well as the RGB control independent and controllable from the RGB header and PWM header on the Aquaero... My current thought is that you should be able to just figure out what pins are for RGB and plug those wires directly into the RGB header of the Aquaero then possibly use the "fan control" as just a PWM splitter for the fan speed control and telemetry.
> 
> I am of course not suggesting anyone try anything they aren't comfortable with, just that in my professional experience I don't see much potential for damaging the LEDs or the fan by doing what I have explained. As I kinda said this is all gleaned from personal experience and what I have seen in pictures of the fan being taken apart. I will of course use a meter and my scope to determine what pins are what before I go hooking anything up.
> 
> Good article on RGB LED operation...
> https://developer.mbed.org/users/4180_1/notebook/rgb-leds/
Click to expand...

Glad to see we have another expert EE on the panel, now I can retire . . .









[/sarcasm]

You might want to think about how LED strips like these work with just 3 wires then . . . . .





Along with the rest of how you think PWM and fan rpm works.


----------



## Trestles126

i have had my aquearo 6 running software temp sensors for 2 years now i recently updated 8.1 to windows 10 and i believe the unit was reading temps. but now they are at the fall back temp of 50 for everyone. when i go into software temp settings and go to select data source it says nothing is available. even though openhardwaremonitor is running in my task bar and works fine. any experience with this?


----------



## GTXJackBauer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Trestles126*
> 
> i have had my aquearo 6 running software temp sensors for 2 years now i recently updated 8.1 to windows 10 and i believe the unit was reading temps. but now they are at the fall back temp of 50 for everyone. when i go into software temp settings and go to select data source it says nothing is available. even though openhardwaremonitor is running in my task bar and works fine. any experience with this?


I lost my sensors too but after a restart, they came back. Others just reinstalled the AQ software and fixed the issue. Make sure you are using the most updated software (AQ 2016-4) as well.


----------



## SloppyDingo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Glad to see we have another expert EE on the panel, now I can retire . . .
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> [/sarcasm]
> 
> You might want to think about how LED strips like these work with just 3 wires then . . . . .
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Along with the rest of how you think PWM and fan rpm works.


Here we go....

If you look closely at the video, you will see small, black squares between each set of LEDs. These are ICs. Most likely WS2801 as they are very popular with this type of LED strips. They use data in, in the form of some type of serial communication and a clock signal. This way, color data for many different lights can be sent over a single pair of wires. Being that these these chips are addressable, you can have many ICs, controlling many different lights with the ICs wired in series with a single pair of wires, traces, whatever.... NOW on the output side, I'll give you three guesses as to what these chips use to control the LEds. And the first two don't count... Three channels (R, G and B!!!!) outputting PWM!! The three input wires are going to be be ground, clock and data. Often there is a fourth for a 12 volt source when driving alrge numbers of LEDs. I'm willing to bet money there is a chip similar to this inside the controller of the Riing lights driving PWM to the three fans attached to it. If you bypass this controller and plug the lights directly into the LED port on another LED controller that uses PWM you should be able to control the colors of the lights as it's simply outputting the PWM data on three of the four pins with the fourth being ground.

WS2801 Data Sheet ---->https://cdn-shop.adafruit.com/datasheets/WS2801.pdf

If we can make it past the LED thing, I'll explain how a PWM fan works.


----------



## ruffhi

I'm in the process of connecting my new Aquaero (first time owner) and I was trying to research how to turn the PC off if the pump RPM dropped to zero. I have the ability to run a tac signal to the motherboard and it looks like I can put an alert into the bios (fan drops to zero). Is that a solution? Is it the best solution? Are there other solutions? If so, are they better?

I did some searching in this thread and found some references but not any thing definitive.


----------



## DerComissar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *SloppyDingo*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Not sure it's a good idea to plug that fan directly because it has to be wired weird due to the fact that it takes multiple connections to control RGB and it has to be muxed in somehow along with the regular 4wire PWM fan. One thing I can tell you for sure is do not mix this with other fans like Noctua. I'm talking about using a y splitter to run the PWM lead of the TT module with another PWM fan in the same AQ6 channel because your AQ6 will not get a PWM reading because I have tried this myself today. One thing that will work is you can use a Y splitter for two PWM leads that goes to the TT modules. Again no other types of fans mixed with it.
> Edited by Artah - Today at 3:27 am
> 
> 
> 
> *All RGB LEDs that I am aware of, regardless of if they are 5050 SMD, 3mm, 5mm etc. operate on the same basic principal. The faster the PWM frequency, the brighter the light. In most cases, this is scaled from 0 to 255.* In reality, they are flashing, just at a much higher rate than our brains can "see". The slower the frequency, the dimmer the light appears is only because the blink rate is slower with more darkness between the pulses.
> 
> As for the potential of damaging the LEDs I find it highly unlikely. PWM signal is 3.3-5V, regardless if its for a LED or the speed signal into or out of a fan. So even if one of the three RGB signals are somehow muxed with the fans speed signal it wouldn't negatively affect the LEDs operation. You would probably just see some odd behavior from one of the colors in the LEDs.
> 
> I'm on a trip for my company right now. When I return home in a few weeks, I intend on purchasing one of these and one of the new Corsair LED fans to experiment with. My goal is to make the fan speed, telemetry as well as the RGB control independent and controllable from the RGB header and PWM header on the Aquaero... My current thought is that you should be able to just figure out what pins are for RGB and plug those wires directly into the RGB header of the Aquaero then possibly use the "fan control" as just a PWM splitter for the fan speed control and telemetry.
> 
> I am of course not suggesting anyone try anything they aren't comfortable with, just that in my professional experience I don't see much potential for damaging the LEDs or the fan by doing what I have explained. As I kinda said this is all gleaned from personal experience and what I have seen in pictures of the fan being taken apart. I will of course use a meter and my scope to determine what pins are what before I go hooking anything up.
> 
> Good article on RGB LED operation...
> https://developer.mbed.org/users/4180_1/notebook/rgb-leds/
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Glad to see we have another expert EE on the panel, now I can retire . . .
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> [/sarcasm]
> 
> You might want to think about how LED strips like these work with just 3 wires then . . . . .
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Along with the rest of how you think PWM and fan rpm works.
Click to expand...

No, you mustn't retire.
You've got to continue with these gorgeous, imaginative builds, and allow us to benefit from your knowledge here.
Aquaeros, leds, pumps, acrylic panels and powered doors, oh my!









Besides, you hinted that there may be a nice S5 build eventually!


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SloppyDingo*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Glad to see we have another expert EE on the panel, now I can retire . . .
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> [/sarcasm]
> 
> You might want to think about how LED strips like these work with just 3 wires then . . . . .
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Along with the rest of how you think PWM and fan rpm works.
> 
> 
> 
> Here we go....
> 
> If you look closely at the video, you will see small, black squares between each set of LEDs. These are ICs. Most likely WS2801 as they are very popular with this type of LED strips. They use data in, in the form of some type of serial communication and a clock signal. This way, color data for many different lights can be sent over a single pair of wires. Being that these these chips are addressable, you can have many ICs, controlling many different lights with the ICs wired in series with a single pair of wires, traces, whatever.... NOW on the output side, I'll give you three guesses as to what these chips use to control the LEds. And the first two don't count... Three channels (R, G and B!!!!) outputting PWM!! The three input wires are going to be be ground, clock and data. Often there is a fourth for a 12 volt source when driving alrge numbers of LEDs. I'm willing to bet money there is a chip similar to this inside the controller of the Riing lights driving PWM to the three fans attached to it. If you bypass this controller and plug the lights directly into the LED port on another LED controller that uses PWM you should be able to control the colors of the lights as it's simply outputting the PWM data on three of the four pins with the fourth being ground.
> 
> WS2801 Data Sheet ---->https://cdn-shop.adafruit.com/datasheets/WS2801.pdf
> 
> If we can make it past the LED thing, *I'll explain how a PWM fan works*.
Click to expand...

I'm eager to learn, and don't forget to explain how a fan tach circuit works, the pwm part . . .

Thanks in advance,


----------



## Artah

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> I'm eager to learn, and don't forget to explain how a fan tach circuit works, the pwm part . . .
> 
> Thanks in advance,


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SloppyDingo*
> 
> All RGB LEDs that I am aware of, regardless of if they are 5050 SMD, 3mm, 5mm etc. operate on the same basic principal. The faster the PWM frequency, the brighter the light. In most cases, this is scaled from 0 to 255. In reality, they are flashing, just at a much higher rate than our brains can "see". The slower the frequency, the dimmer the light appears is only because the blink rate is slower with more darkness between the pulses.
> 
> As for the potential of damaging the LEDs I find it highly unlikely. PWM signal is 3.3-5V, regardless if its for a LED or the speed signal into or out of a fan. So even if one of the three RGB signals are somehow muxed with the fans speed signal it wouldn't negatively affect the LEDs operation. You would probably just see some odd behavior from one of the colors in the LEDs.
> 
> I'm on a trip for my company right now. When I return home in a few weeks, I intend on purchasing one of these and one of the new Corsair LED fans to experiment with. My goal is to make the fan speed, telemetry as well as the RGB control independent and controllable from the RGB header and PWM header on the Aquaero... My current thought is that you should be able to just figure out what pins are for RGB and plug those wires directly into the RGB header of the Aquaero then possibly use the "fan control" as just a PWM splitter for the fan speed control and telemetry.
> 
> I am of course not suggesting anyone try anything they aren't comfortable with, just that in my professional experience I don't see much potential for damaging the LEDs or the fan by doing what I have explained. As I kinda said this is all gleaned from personal experience and what I have seen in pictures of the fan being taken apart. I will of course use a meter and my scope to determine what pins are what before I go hooking anything up.
> 
> Good article on RGB LED operation...
> https://developer.mbed.org/users/4180_1/notebook/rgb-leds/


No Darlene you can't quit on us!!! You were my first contact with OCN when you helped me with that voltage divider/amplifier circuit and at the end told me to buy an AQ6 and call it a day, been happier since then!

Anyway I'm a non practicing EE but I had to figure that the LED signals were muxed into the 5 wires. From my short tests I was able to determine that pins 1 and 3 have frequencies muxed into them and they both changed as the colors changed. I know about the dimmer frequencies on LEDs that make them appear as a different colors to the naked eye when mixed with the basic colors of red/green/blue. I stand by my point not to plug in the 5 pin fans into a conventional 4 pin PWM controller somehow. You could damage stuff...

Darlene, in another topic but related to this. Do you know what would cause the PWM signal fed to this thing would drown out the signal that is fed to other types of hub/fans? Here is what I tried.

Noctua PWM fan is not receiving enough power on the PWM pin to drive it and will not even spin. I used a Silverstone active hub as well as a pheobya passive hub. None would work. Is it possible to drop the pwm voltage enough to non conventional PWM levels so the TT fans still get enough signal and the rest of the fans don't get enough? Maybe they did this on purpose so that you just don't mix this with other fans? Writing this I thought I'd measure the voltage difference on the TT controller PWM input and on a regular fan actually to help try to figure this out.

Editing this to add my little test result.
PWM signal from AQ6 around 2.2v RMS
PWM signal after you plug in the TT fan module around 600mv RMS.

I'm not too sure if I want to keep those things in my rig now but it's too late to return them. They do look nice though but thinking back I should have stuck to my TT boycott. If those controllers fry my AQ6 I'll forever never buy anything from TT ever again no matter how shiny it is but I'm sure it will be fine. Anyone have any comforting words about this test let me know...


----------



## Mega Man

Wow. This will be a fun chat won't it.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Trestles126*
> 
> i have had my aquearo 6 running software temp sensors for 2 years now i recently updated 8.1 to windows 10 and i believe the unit was reading temps. but now they are at the fall back temp of 50 for everyone. when i go into software temp settings and go to select data source it says nothing is available. even though openhardwaremonitor is running in my task bar and works fine. any experience with this?


FYI open hardware monitor imo sucks. A ton of glitches imo try out hwinfo64 (or 32 if using 32 bit *shudder*

Also yes you may need to reinstall aqusuite or the monitoring program
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ruffhi*
> 
> I'm in the process of connecting my new Aquaero (first time owner) and I was trying to research how to turn the PC off if the pump RPM dropped to zero. I have the ability to run a tac signal to the motherboard and it looks like I can put an alert into the bios (fan drops to zero). Is that a solution? Is it the best solution? Are there other solutions? If so, are they better?
> 
> I did some searching in this thread and found some references but not any thing definitive.


Congrats and welcome

I am a bit lost are you asking about a rpm signal?

1 use the 3 pin write that came with aquaero or make your own (iirc female to female).

2 plug into cpu fan header and RPM/tachometer.

DO NOT PLUG IT INTO FLOW IT WILL DAMAGE YOUR UNIT or aquabus ect.

Check check and double check

3 iirc in Aquasuite go to alarms. And then normal operation switch to send rpm signal (not at pc atm but you should be able to figure it out from here )

As to cutting power.

You will use a relay and either the 3 pole relay plug (may be able to use a 2 pole idr) some have used single dupont 2.54mm pins as well

You would cut the "ps-on" wire of the 24 pinand put one side to come (aka common) and the other to NC (normally closed)

Then in alarms you would set which ever alarm result to open relay for ... (where "..." is the amount of time) then set up an alarm where if your flow/ or pump RPM failed it would trigger that alarm level.

Hope this helps and is what you wanted


----------



## Artah

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> Wow. This will be a fun chat won't it.
> FYI open hardware monitor imo sucks. A ton of glitches imo try out hwinfo64 (or 32 if using 32 bit *shudder*
> 
> Also yes you may need to reinstall aqusuite or the monitoring program
> Congrats and welcome
> 
> I am a bit lost are you asking about a rpm signal?
> 
> 1 use the 3 pin write that came with aquaero or make your own (iirc female to female).
> 
> 2 plug into cpu fan header and RPM/tachometer.
> 
> DO NOT PLUG IT INTO FLOW IT WILL DAMAGE YOUR UNIT or aquabus ect.
> 
> Check check and double check
> 
> 3 iirc in Aquasuite go to alarms. And then normal operation switch to send rpm signal (not at pc atm but you should be able to figure it out from here )
> 
> As to cutting power.
> 
> You will use a relay and either the 3 pole relay plug (may be able to use a 2 pole idr) some have used single dupont 2.54mm pins as well
> 
> You would cut the "ps-on" wire of the 24 pinand put one side to come (aka common) and the other to NC (normally closed)
> 
> Then in alarms you would set which ever alarm result to open relay for ... (where "..." is the amount of time) then set up an alarm where if your flow/ or pump RPM failed it would trigger that alarm level.
> 
> Hope this helps and is what you wanted


Mega, can you make a quick summary of what needs to be done so that I can monitor the CPU temp using AQ6 with hwinfo64 if it's even possible? Thanks in advance.


----------



## wa3pnt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Artah*
> 
> Mega, can you make a quick summary of what needs to be done so that I can monitor the CPU temp using AQ6 with hwinfo64 if it's even possible? Thanks in advance.


I have found two things with using hwinfo64 or aida64 as the source for the CPU temperature.

1. A reading is not obtained until the system finishes booting and loads the program.

2. The temperature swings with these programs can be very wide and rapid. Using them as in input to a controller for fans or pumps causes the fans to ramp up and down quickly in some situations.

I have found that inserting a temperature probe next to the CPU die provides a very stable, reliable source for the CPU temperature, and under stable conditions tracks the aida64 or hwinfo64 temperatures within about .5 degrees C*

This temperature responds to the CPU temperature changes more gradually, preventing the rapid fan ramping.

The temperature reading is also immediately available when the system starts, since there is no program loading needed.

RodeoGeorge


----------



## Artah

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wa3pnt*
> 
> I have found two things with using hwinfo64 or aida64 as the source for the CPU temperature.
> 
> 1. A reading is not obtained until the system finishes booting and loads the program.
> 
> 2. The temperature swings with these programs can be very wide and rapid. Using them as in input to a controller for fans or pumps causes the fans to ramp up and down quickly in some situations.
> 
> I have found that inserting a temperature probe next to the CPU die provides a very stable, reliable source for the CPU temperature, and under stable conditions tracks the aida64 or hwinfo64 temperatures within about .5 degrees C*
> 
> This temperature responds to the CPU temperature changes more gradually, preventing the rapid fan ramping.
> 
> The temperature reading is also immediately available when the system starts, since there is no program loading needed.
> 
> RodeoGeorge


That's some good info/observation. I think I'll do the same but will have to wait until I can pull water block out when I replace the 5930k with the 6950x. Any particular favorite spot where you put it next to the die on the ILM area?


----------



## ruffhi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *ruffhi*
> 
> I'm in the process of connecting my new Aquaero (first time owner) and I was trying to research how to turn the PC off if the pump RPM dropped to zero. I have the ability to run a tac signal to the motherboard and it looks like I can put an alert into the bios (fan drops to zero). Is that a solution? Is it the best solution? Are there other solutions? If so, are they better?
> 
> I did some searching in this thread and found some references but not any thing definitive.
> 
> 
> 
> Congrats and welcome
> 
> I am a bit lost are you asking about a rpm signal?
Click to expand...

Mega Man ... I mention RPM because I have a free signal that I can report the RPM of one of the pumps to the motherboard. My motherboard manual (ASUS X99-M) contains the following ...



... and, (I guess), I am just spitballing that I can use this motherboard alarm to turn the PC off. I could be way off board.

Edit: I did find this post ... http://www.overclock.net/t/1474470/ocn-aquaero-owners-club/2900_100#post_23341151
https://forum.aquacomputer.de/weitere-foren/english-forum/912-aquaero-mulitswitch-and-aquastream-connections/
http://www.aquatuning.us/air-cooling/controllers-accessories/2405/aquacomputer-aquaero-power-connect-24-pin-atx-standby-power-/-atx-break


----------



## SloppyDingo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Artah*
> 
> No Darlene you can't quit on us!!! You were my first contact with OCN when you helped me with that voltage divider/amplifier circuit and at the end told me to buy an AQ6 and call it a day, been happier since then!
> 
> Anyway I'm a non practicing EE but I had to figure that the LED signals were muxed into the 5 wires. From my short tests I was able to determine that pins 1 and 3 have frequencies muxed into them and they both changed as the colors changed. I know about the dimmer frequencies on LEDs that make them appear as a different colors to the naked eye when mixed with the basic colors of red/green/blue. I stand by my point not to plug in the 5 pin fans into a conventional 4 pin PWM controller somehow. You could damage stuff...


Muxed PWM Signals... wouldn't that then be PPM? I think you are thinking I was referring to the four pin fan headers... Absolutely not, this would definitely fry your LEDs Unless they were rated for 12 volts... I was referring to the four pin RGB LED header on the back of the Aquaero 6 or one of the four pin headers on the farbwerk LED controller. Sorry for any confusion there. I have seen the insides of these fans and there is nothing special about these LEDs.

So in your testing, how were you able to tell there was any muxing going on and what was being muxed together? If this were the case, why didnt the just combine all the PWM signals into one wire? what test equipment did you use? Also, what was going on with pins 2, 4 and 5?

IDK, just trying to come up with a solution. These fans would be a lot cooler if you could controll them with one of the Aquacomputer devices. Never intended to down anyone. Major levels of pasive agressiveness in here. Peace, man...


----------



## wa3pnt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Artah*
> 
> That's some good info/observation. I think I'll do the same but will have to wait until I can pull water block out when I replace the 5930k with the 6950x. Any particular favorite spot where you put it next to the die on the ILM area?


I have installed the probe both ways, before the water block installation, and after the water block installation.

When installing before the water block installation, I use one of the flat temp probes and place it on the side of the CPU die, making sure that it is below the surface of the die and won't interfere with the water block installation. I've held it in place with a dab of silicone. I also route and secure the probe wire so that any strain/movement of the wire does not disturb the probe location.

When installing after the water block is in place, I slide a flat Temp Probe in next to the CPU die from the hinged end of the CPU retainer. From here, it becomes a trial and error situation to move it around until it reads the same value (or very close) as that provided by aida64 or hwinfo64. Again, secure the Temp Probe wire so that it remains where placed.

As I mentioned earlier, I have been able to obtain reading that are very close to the aida64 reading. Right now I am looking at a Temp Probe reading of 27.6* C, and an aida64 reading of 28.0* C. Though the aida64 reading will jump around at times, when it is stable, they are very close.

Under a stress test, such as Prime95, the aida64 CPU reading will very quickly rise, and the Temp Probe reading will also rise at a slower rate. Normally within 2 minutes maximum the Temp Probe reading is very close to the aida64 reading. Also, when the Prime95 test is terminated, the aida64 CPU reading will quickly return to a much lower value, whereas the Temp Probe reading will slowly drop to the idle state reading. In my case, the radiator fans track the Temp Probe reading through an Aquaero 6XT Controller.

I have dual 360 radiators in push/pull in the top of a CL S8 case. The bottom 6 fans (in a push configuration) are on a curve that ramps them up when the CPU temperature rises above 28.0* C, with the 100% setting being 32.0* C on the Aquaero controller. The top 6 fans (in a pull configuration) run at an idle speed of 500 RPM until the CPU temperature rises above 29.5* C, at which time they also ramp up. I use the same 32.0* C setting on the top fans for 100% output.

The ambient temperature in my shop (where the computer is located) is normally around 23* C (73.4* F) in the Arizona summer heat.

RodeoGeorge


----------



## Artah

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SloppyDingo*
> 
> Muxed PWM Signals... wouldn't that then be PPM? I think you are thinking I was referring to the four pin fan headers... Absolutely not, this would definitely fry your LEDs Unless they were rated for 12 volts... I was referring to the four pin RGB LED header on the back of the Aquaero 6 or one of the four pin headers on the farbwerk LED controller. Sorry for any confusion there. I have seen the insides of these fans and there is nothing special about these LEDs.
> 
> So in your testing, how were you able to tell there was any muxing going on and what was being muxed together? If this were the case, why didnt the just combine all the PWM signals into one wire? what test equipment did you use? Also, what was going on with pins 2, 4 and 5?
> 
> IDK, just trying to come up with a solution. These fans would be a lot cooler if you could controll them with one of the Aquacomputer devices. Never intended to down anyone. Major levels of pasive agressiveness in here. Peace, man...


I'm not downed at all no worries. I know you were just trying to help with your own curiosity. I didn't do an extensive test, I was just looking for anything that was producing some type of frequency in reference to ground on any of the leads and those two were the only ones that recorded something and they definitely do not match the conventional pins of ground, vcc, rpm and pwm on the first 4 pins. It is possible that 1 pin with a signal is used to control the RGB LED and the other is PWM. I should have tested incoming PWM to compare it to what's coming out to see if one of the frequencies match. I don't know if there is another circuit that controls how the red/green/blue LEDs on the fans would be powered but I don't want to take one apart







If you do more testing than I have please do share your results because I'm interested in modifying mine to lose that big ugly control box from TT.


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SloppyDingo*
> 
> Here we go....
> 
> If you look closely at the video, you will see small, black squares between each set of LEDs. These are ICs. Most likely WS2801 as they are very popular with this type of LED strips. They use data in, in the form of some type of serial communication and a clock signal. This way, color data for many different lights can be sent over a single pair of wires. Being that these these chips are addressable, you can have many ICs, controlling many different lights with the ICs wired in series with a single pair of wires, traces, whatever.... NOW on the output side, I'll give you three guesses as to what these chips use to control the LEds. And the first two don't count... Three channels (R, G and B!!!!) outputting PWM!! The three input wires are going to be be ground, clock and data. Often there is a fourth for a 12 volt source when driving alrge numbers of LEDs. I'm willing to bet money there is a chip similar to this inside the controller of the Riing lights driving PWM to the three fans attached to it. If you bypass this controller and plug the lights directly into the LED port on another LED controller that uses PWM you should be able to control the colors of the lights as it's simply outputting the PWM data on three of the four pins with the fourth being ground.
> 
> WS2801 Data Sheet ---->https://cdn-shop.adafruit.com/datasheets/WS2801.pdf
> 
> If we can make it past the LED thing, I'll explain how a PWM fan works.


I also would like to learn and am waiting with anticipation!!


----------



## flemsnopes

Pedantry, patronization, and condescension. You're flashing faster than my brain cans "see".
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SloppyDingo*
> 
> Here we go....
> 
> If you look closely at the video, you will see small, black squares between each set of LEDs. These are ICs. Most likely WS2801 as they are very popular with this type of LED strips. They use data in, in the form of some type of serial communication and a clock signal. This way, color data for many different lights can be sent over a single pair of wires. Being that these these chips are addressable, you can have many ICs, controlling many different lights with the ICs wired in series with a single pair of wires, traces, whatever.... NOW on the output side, I'll give you three guesses as to what these chips use to control the LEds. And the first two don't count... Three channels (R, G and B!!!!) outputting PWM!! The three input wires are going to be be ground, clock and data. Often there is a fourth for a 12 volt source when driving alrge numbers of LEDs. I'm willing to bet money there is a chip similar to this inside the controller of the Riing lights driving PWM to the three fans attached to it. If you bypass this controller and plug the lights directly into the LED port on another LED controller that uses PWM you should be able to control the colors of the lights as it's simply outputting the PWM data on three of the four pins with the fourth being ground.
> 
> WS2801 Data Sheet ---->https://cdn-shop.adafruit.com/datasheets/WS2801.pdf
> 
> If we can make it past the LED thing, I'll explain how a PWM fan works.


Pedantry, patronization, and condescension. You're flashing faster than my brain can "see".


----------



## Ninhalem

I don't see any of those in that post. He was very informative and succinct in that explanation.


----------



## flemsnopes

I agree with you on his technical explanations, but he was being condescending to Darlene. Does she really need for him to explain to her how pwm fans work? Actually, I'm sure he knows he doesn't. I was reacting , not to what he posted technically, but to his tone and manner. Perhaps I was a little harsh.

No matter, I'm just a lurker who has no credibility here (and rightfully so). I'll return to occasionally lurking.

Cheers


----------



## DanBr

Pump RPM range??
I have this pump
http://www.performance-pcs.com/aquacomputer-d5-pump-motor-with-pwm-input-and-speed-signal.html
and I don't remember what the RPM range is.
I just looked at Aquasuite and see that the RPM's are 3600 and the controller says that is 56%. I am pumping 180 L/hr at that.
Does that seem correct.
thanks
dan


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *flemsnopes*
> 
> I agree with you on his technical explanations, but he was being condescending to Darlene. Does she really need for him to explain to her how pwm fans work? Actually, I'm sure he knows he doesn't. I was reacting , not to what he posted technically, but to his tone and manner. Perhaps I was a little harsh.
> 
> No matter, I'm just a lurker who has no credibility here (and rightfully so). I'll return to occasionally lurking.
> 
> Cheers


Speak up when you have a mind to . . .

I did beg the question a bit . . . .

It's always fun when guys "know" more about one of my builds than I do, or haven't been on OCN long enough to have followed my postings over the years.

In years past, I probably would have bought a pack of riing fans, just to reverse engineer them and post how to use them with non-Tt controllers, or whatever else I could glean from dissecting them, but my real job is just really pressing, to where I hardly manage to get work done on my "in progress" builds.

Darlene


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DanBr*
> 
> Pump RPM range??
> I have this pump
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/aquacomputer-d5-pump-motor-with-pwm-input-and-speed-signal.html
> and I don't remember what the RPM range is.
> I just looked at Aquasuite and see that the RPM's are 3600 and the controller says that is 56%. I am pumping 180 L/hr at that.
> Does that seem correct.
> thanks
> dan


The slowest I've seen for a PWM D5 is a bit over 800 rpm.

They top out at ~4800, maybe slightly less with some load.

3600 at ~56% seems about right, which at 180 L/hr which is 3L/min, or a bit under 1GPM to us imperial folks, and for a moderate loop, is about expected for a D5 at that speed.

D.


----------



## Vindicare

OK so this is curious, i have my new D5 EK pump conected to my Aquaero by PWM.

i have had it on a curve but now it's just on a preset value, im running it so that i have around 255 liters per hour 3900 rpm or so.

now the curious thing is that controlling it by PWM from 1% to something like 96% it stays on low rpm, 800 or so, from 96% to 100% it ramps up to the max rpm that is 4800....

so .... have any of you come across this? it should ramp up from 20% or so...


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Vindicare*
> 
> OK so this is curious, i have my new D5 EK pump conected to my Aquaero by PWM.
> 
> i have had it on a curve but now it's just on a preset value, im running it so that i have around 255 liters per hour 3900 rpm or so.
> 
> now the curious thing is that controlling it by PWM from 1% to something like 96% it stays on low rpm, 800 or so, from 96% to 100% it ramps up to the max rpm that is 4800....
> 
> so .... have any of you come across this? it should ramp up from 20% or so...


If you have the pump in a "controller" the controller might be responsible for the behavior you are observing. Take the pump out of any controller and use the min and max values on the fan channel where the pump is to test the rpm - pwm signal response.

also, be aware. Old EK d5 models are not per intel pwm specs and therefore are not fully compatible with the Aquaero. Are you sure you have the new model (ek is calling g2 I think)?


----------



## Vindicare

yhea thats what i did to check out min and max range of rpm, i observed that it ramps up from 95% or so to 100%.

so i configured that channel to go from 95 to 100%

then i put it on a preset value controller and applied 81% power and its giving me 3900 rpm.

Its a brand new EK D5 Pump bought from EK.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Vindicare*
> 
> yhea thats what i did to check out min and max range of rpm, i observed that it ramps up from 95% or so to 100%.
> 
> so i configured that channel to go from 95 to 100%
> 
> then i put it on a preset value controller and applied 81% power and its giving me 3900 rpm.
> 
> Its a brand new EK D5 Pump bought from EK.


Can you post a link, and a picture of the label on the pump, please.

Except for the new GEN2 PWM D5's from EK, all the ones they've had previously were not compatible with the A6 as they came out of the box.

The new GEN2 is compatible, and has a different label on the pump.

If you have your A6 set up properly, the GEN 2 will work fine, while the older ones will not control well below about 60% rpm, . . but may go above it.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Vindicare*
> 
> yhea thats what i did to check out min and max range of rpm, i observed that it ramps up from 95% or so to 100%.
> 
> so i configured that channel to go from 95 to 100%
> 
> then i put it on a preset value controller and applied 81% power and its giving me 3900 rpm.
> 
> Its a brand new EK D5 Pump bought from EK.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Can you post a link, and a picture of the label on the pump, please.
> 
> Except for the new GEN2 PWM D5's from EK, all the ones they've had previously were not compatible with the A6 as they came out of the box.
> 
> The new GEN2 is compatible, and has a different label on the pump.
> 
> If you have your A6 set up properly, the GEN 2 will work fine, while the older ones will not control well below about 60% rpm, . . but may go above it.


That sort of behavior (erratic control) is typical of the default old d5 PWM pumps. As Diva said please post a pic of the back of the pump so we can check if it is indeed the new model.


----------



## Mega Man

Good news of it is the old model an easy diva mod is all you need


----------



## cltitus

It's been a long time since I cam on the forums. College, Marriage, and kid takes up a lot of time. I finally started work after graduating college and finally going to be building a new sabertooth x99 platform. Got tired of using fan controllers and pump controllers and well my pocket book went empty for the funds. Today just got a 6 Pro w/ HS & WB, Aquastream Ultimate, farbwerk, poweradjust w/HS(for current build), and a few sensors. Finally biting the bullet for automation of cooling since my house is prety much siri turn off lights but my pc cant ramp up fan speeds to cool while gaming without me manually doing it. Working on a TJ07 build waiting on a few emails before I finish buying up all my other rad/hardware. Going to have to say once i get used to this I will finally wonder why people never went back.


----------



## Mega Man

Welcome!


----------



## GTXJackBauer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> but my real job is just really pressing, to where I hardly manage to get work done on my "in progress" builds.
> 
> Darlene


Hope DARPA is treating you well.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GTXJackBauer*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> but my real job is just really pressing, to where I hardly manage to get work done on my "in progress" builds.
> 
> Darlene
> 
> 
> 
> Hope DARPA is treating you well.
Click to expand...

DARPA ??

You gotta explain the new lingo to us old folks . . .

D.


----------



## willemdoom

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> DARPA ??
> 
> You gotta explain the new lingo to us old folks . . .
> 
> D.


Probably a reference to your amazing technical skills, seeing as DARPA is the Defense Advanced Research Projects Agency, one of the top research centers in the USA


----------



## DanBr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> The slowest I've seen for a PWM D5 is a bit over 800 rpm.
> 
> They top out at ~4800, maybe slightly less with some load.
> 
> 3600 at ~56% seems about right, which at 180 L/hr which is 3L/min, or a bit under 1GPM to us imperial folks, and for a moderate loop, is about expected for a D5 at that speed.
> 
> D.


thanks as always
When I first built this last fall, I was looking at Aquasuite constantly to see/learn. Now it justs works so well in the background I hardly ever look and forgot what the initial values were
dan


----------



## GTXJackBauer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> DARPA ??
> 
> You gotta explain the new lingo to us old folks . . .
> 
> D.


From the looks of your profile pic, you don't look that old Diva.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *willemdoom*
> 
> Probably a reference to your amazing technical skills, seeing as DARPA is the Defense Advanced Research Projects Agency, one of the top research centers in the USA


BINGO!


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *willemdoom*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> DARPA ??
> 
> You gotta explain the new lingo to us old folks . . .
> 
> D.
> 
> 
> 
> Probably a reference to your amazing technical skills, seeing as DARPA is the Defense Advanced Research Projects Agency, one of the top research centers in the USA
Click to expand...

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GTXJackBauer*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> DARPA ??
> 
> You gotta explain the new lingo to us old folks . . .
> 
> D.
> 
> 
> 
> From the looks of your profile pic, you don't look that old Diva.
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *willemdoom*
> 
> Probably a reference to your amazing technical skills, seeing as DARPA is the Defense Advanced Research Projects Agency, one of the top research centers in the USA
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> BINGO!
Click to expand...

Sounds like one of those places that if I admitted to working there, they'd have to kill me right after they downloaded my brain . . . .


----------



## GTXJackBauer

DARPA was also involved in the creation of the internet. They basically take something impossible and make it possible. Whether its for the gov. or the military. Robotic soldiers, lasers weapons, etc you ask? They've been working on it all. Its the agency where all the crazy genius scientists go to and walk out saying they don't know nothing and didn't see nothing.


----------



## DerComissar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *willemdoom*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> DARPA ??
> 
> You gotta explain the new lingo to us old folks . . .
> 
> D.
> 
> 
> 
> Probably a reference to your amazing technical skills, seeing as DARPA is the Defense Advanced Research Projects Agency, one of the top research centers in the USA
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *GTXJackBauer*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> DARPA ??
> 
> You gotta explain the new lingo to us old folks . . .
> 
> D.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> From the looks of your profile pic, you don't look that old Diva.
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *willemdoom*
> 
> Probably a reference to your amazing technical skills, seeing as DARPA is the Defense Advanced Research Projects Agency, one of the top research centers in the USA
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> BINGO!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Sounds like one of those places that if I admitted to working there, they'd have to kill me right after they downloaded my brain . . . .
Click to expand...

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GTXJackBauer*
> 
> DARPA was also involved in the creation of the internet. They basically take something impossible and make it possible. Whether its for the gov. or the military. Robotic soldiers, lasers weapons, etc you ask? They've been working on it all. Its the agency where all the crazy genius scientists go to and walk out saying they don't know nothing and didn't see nothing.


----------



## fred88

Hi guys seeking a help mod pump Revo D5 PWM LOWARA. What resistors should I use to just one pump?


----------



## SloppyDingo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Speak up when you have a mind to . . .
> 
> I did beg the question a bit . . . .
> 
> It's always fun when guys "know" more about one of my builds than I do, or haven't been on OCN long enough to have followed my postings over the years.
> 
> In years past, I probably would have bought a pack of riing fans, just to reverse engineer them and post how to use them with non-Tt controllers, or whatever else I could glean from dissecting them, but my real job is just really pressing, to where I hardly manage to get work done on my "in progress" builds.
> 
> Darlene


I never meant to imply that I know more than you about anything... builds or other. Originally, I was only trying to open a dialog about how the riing fans work as I'm considering modding them to work with something other than the crappy thermaltake controler. With my job, I'm out of the country for about six months a year (away from my projects) so my only option is to google, plan, speculate and look forward to getting back home to play with my toys. Admittedly, I was being a bit sarcastic in my post regarding RGB LED functionality, though I felt as if I was being attacked a little. At any rate, I apologize if I offended anyone here.

I have a stack of Amazon boxes waiting for me for when I return home in a couple of weeks. I'll be starting a new build... and attempting to reverse engineer a Riing fan. I'll post my findings here if anyone is interested.


----------



## Artah

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SloppyDingo*
> 
> I never meant to imply that I know more than you about anything... builds or other. Originally, I was only trying to open a dialog about how the riing fans work as I'm considering modding them to work with something other than the crappy thermaltake controler. With my job, I'm out of the country for about six months a year (away from my projects) so my only option is to google, plan, speculate and look forward to getting back home to play with my toys. Admittedly, I was being a bit sarcastic in my post regarding RGB LED functionality, though I felt as if I was being attacked a little. At any rate, I apologize if I offended anyone here.
> 
> I have a stack of Amazon boxes waiting for me for when I return home in a couple of weeks. I'll be starting a new build... and attempting to reverse engineer a Riing fan. I'll post my findings here if anyone is interested.


I am definitely interested in your finding because I greatly dislike that TT controller (Actually I dislike TT in general) that you have to have 1 for every 3 fans and linking them with a non existing connector is lame, the kits should have come with them. The only sole reason why I got these fans is because I was looking for a reliable blue 140mm fan that have a decent CFM. I have seen a few for sale but couldn't find one that I was happy with.

I'm actually going to reverse engineer these fans myself if I get time before you get a chance to run your experiments. All I want is to turn on the blue LED and use it like a regular PWM 4 PIN fan. I might have to destroy at least 1 fan to do it.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Artah*
> 
> I am definitely interested in your finding because I greatly dislike that TT controller (Actually I dislike TT in general) that you have to have 1 for every 3 fans and linking them with a non existing connector is lame, the kits should have come with them. The only sole reason why I got these fans is because I was looking for a reliable blue 140mm fan that have a decent CFM. I have seen a few for sale but couldn't find one that I was happy with.
> 
> I'm actually going to reverse engineer these fans myself if I get time before you get a chance to run your experiments. All I want is to turn on the blue LED and use it like a regular PWM 4 PIN fan. I might have to destroy at least 1 fan to do it.


Now it seems you have another option:

http://www.corsair.com/en-us/ml140-pro-led-blue-140mm-premium-magnetic-levitation-fan

http://thermalbench.com/2016/07/12/corsair-ml120-pro-120-mm-fan/


----------



## Artah

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Now it seems you have another option:
> 
> http://www.corsair.com/en-us/ml140-pro-led-blue-140mm-premium-magnetic-levitation-fan
> 
> http://thermalbench.com/2016/07/12/corsair-ml120-pro-120-mm-fan/


Finally light at the end of the tunnel!. I can't preorder the blue ones from amazon yet but I can do the non LED ones which will be on the hidden portions of my build so there's half of it. I'll be replacing those RIING fans with these soon as I can and probably give those TT fans away or sell them dirt cheap. I am that irritated with TT's practices.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Artah*
> 
> Finally light at the end of the tunnel!. I can't preorder the blue ones from amazon yet but I can do the non LED ones which will be on the hidden portions of my build so there's half of it. I'll be replacing those RIING fans with these soon as I can and probably give those TT fans away or sell them dirt cheap. I am that irritated with TT's practices.


see if you can get directly from corsair shop (in US). If you are in Europe OCUK might have it. Seems a pretty decent fan at a premium price from VSG tests.


----------



## Artah

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> see if you can get directly from corsair shop (in US). If you are in Europe OCUK might have it. Seems a pretty decent fan at a premium price from VSG tests.


already tried it's out of stock and probably not have any for a while but it's ok.


----------



## flemsnopes

I think I overreacted a bit there SD. All's well that ends well, and safe home.


----------



## 0ldChicken

@Artah http://www.performance-pcs.com/latest/brand--corsair/
I thought I saw some in stock there last week


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## Artah

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *0ldChicken*
> 
> @Artah http://www.performance-pcs.com/latest/brand--corsair/
> I thought I saw some in stock there last week
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


thanks, course they won't have 140mm for months


----------



## ruffhi

I hooked everything up (power to Aquaero 6), installed the fans and pump (3 different fan headers), added some temp sensors and turned on the PSU ... nothing from Aquaero. Is there a secret to turning it on?


----------



## SloppyDingo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *flemsnopes*
> 
> I think I overreacted a bit there SD. All's well that ends well, and safe home.


No worries...


----------



## SloppyDingo

Quote:


> Quote:
> Originally Posted by Artah View Post
> 
> Finally light at the end of the tunnel!. I can't preorder the blue ones from amazon yet but I can do the non LED ones which will be on the hidden portions of my build so there's half of it. I'll be replacing those RIING fans with these soon as I can and probably give those TT fans away or sell them dirt cheap. I am that irritated with TT's practices.
> 
> see if you can get directly from corsair shop (in US). If you are in Europe OCUK might have it. Seems a pretty decent fan at a premium price from VSG tests.


The new fans Corsair is putting out are very cool with regard to LED lighting.., Unfortunately they are $$$ and also require a proprietary controller, although it does seem a bit better than the TT controller in my opinion...

The SP120s look SWEEET! Corsair Reinvents their Cooling Fans.. With RGB!!

The ML series fans seem pretty nice, but none come with the RGB option, just static colors. I have seen them for sale on Performance but the price, ouch, 33.00 USD for a single 140mm with static color!


----------



## flemsnopes

The standard molex connected to the AQ 6 supplies the +12v and +5v needed to power it up. Disconnect the molex from the AQ, power up the PSU and measure the voltages on the AQ molex cable and ensure it is wired correctly. Also, be sure it is seated well when plugging it into the AQ molex. If it still doesn't power up, remove the fan and sensor connectors and try again. If this all fails then the AQ 6 may be defective. The AQ will power up with nothing connected but the standard molex when the PSU powers up.


----------



## ruffhi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *flemsnopes*
> 
> The standard molex connected to the AQ 6 supplies the +12v and +5v needed to power it up. Disconnect the molex from the AQ, power up the PSU and measure the voltages on the AQ molex cable and ensure it is wired correctly. Also, be sure it is seated well when plugging it into the AQ molex. If it still doesn't power up, remove the fan and sensor connectors and try again. If this all fails then the AQ 6 may be defective. The AQ will power up with nothing connected but the standard molex when the PSU powers up.


Thanks. I have pulled it all apart (had to drill a hole in the front panel) and the AQ6 is just sitting there. I have checked the wiring on the molex (all good) but I can attach the AQ6 to a different PSU and power that up. I'm assuming I will see something on the screen when it turns on.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *flemsnopes*
> 
> The standard molex connected to the AQ 6 supplies the +12v and +5v needed to power it up. Disconnect the molex from the AQ, power up the PSU and measure the voltages on the AQ molex cable and ensure it is wired correctly. Also, be sure it is seated well when plugging it into the AQ molex. If it still doesn't power up, remove the fan and sensor connectors and try again. If this all fails then the AQ 6 may be defective. The AQ will power up with nothing connected but the standard molex when the PSU powers up.


Molex is a company. Not a connector.

I think you mean the 4 pin mate n Lok which was made by a company called amp


----------



## flemsnopes

Are you able to measure the voltages on the molex? If not, and it's a modular PSU try one of the standard molex cables that came with the PSU.


----------



## ruffhi

I just pulled out my non-modular spare PSU ($30 ... everyone should have one), plugged in the molex connector (or the 4-pin power connector with the funny cut-offs ... keep up the _Not Molex campaign_ Mega-Man!) and powered it up ... she lives!

I'll check again with the PSU, power cable, etc in the main build and see what happens.


----------



## flemsnopes

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> Molex is a company. Not a connector.
> 
> I think you mean the 4 pin mate n Lok which was made by a company called amp


You're right, but I call all facial tissues "Kleenex" and in Texas all soda pops are "Coke". When instant decaf coffee was becoming de-facto "Sanka" , Sanka began using the term "Sanka brand" in an effort to keep the name from officially being declared generic. "Aspirin" is still trademarked by Bayer and "escalator" by The Otis Elevator comp[any. On it goes.

"In October 1963 AMP (now a division of Tyco International) introduced the MATE-N-LOK connector.[3] The AMP connector was similar to the patented Molex connectors but not interchangeable. Both were widely used in the computer industry and the term "Molex Connector" is often used to refer to all nylon plugs and receptacles."

All that said, you are correct in implying that it would require some diligence in those cases where AMP and molex connectors are interspersed, though I think that would be rare.


----------



## jsutter71

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *flemsnopes*
> 
> You're right, but I call all facial tissues "Kleenex" and in Texas all soda pops are "Coke". When instant decaf coffee was becoming de-facto "Sanka" , Sanka began using the term "Sanka brand" in an effort to keep the name from officially being declared generic. "Aspirin" is still trademarked by Bayer and "escalator" by The Otis Elevator comp[any. On it goes.
> 
> "In October 1963 AMP (now a division of Tyco International) introduced the MATE-N-LOK connector.[3] The AMP connector was similar to the patented Molex connectors but not interchangeable. Both were widely used in the computer industry and the term "Molex Connector" is often used to refer to all nylon plugs and receptacles."
> 
> All that said, you are correct in implying that it would require some diligence in those cases where AMP and molex connectors are interspersed, though I think that would be rare.


I like to cover my bases from the Verbiage Nazi's. No Offense Mega Man, but when referring to a terminal, connector or tool, I'll just say a MOLEX branded whatever. And you sound like you may be in the Houston area regarding your reference of soda as coke. I'm from Houston but live in San Antonio. Personally I'm more of a medium sweet tea drinker.


----------



## flemsnopes

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jsutter71*
> 
> I like to cover my bases from the Verbiage Nazi's. No Offense Mega Man, but when referring to a terminal, connector or tool, I'll just say a MOLEX branded whatever. And you sound like you may be in the Houston area regarding your reference of soda as coke. I'm from Houston but live in San Antonio. Personally I'm more of a medium sweet tea drinker.


I was born in Texarkana but moved to Austin in 1952 when I was 8 and spent my childhood there . Lived in Houston for 4 years and Dallas for 4 years but have been away from Texas for quite some time.

Language, despite any efforts to preserve it's present codification, is democratic and fluid. Despite all efforts to "freeze" it's codification, people will "vote" on usage despite all efforts of language bureaucrats to thwart that. If that weren't true we would all still be speaking Elizabethan English. The fluidity occurs when people aren't isolated from one another and the democracy of language is in full force. On Tangiers Island off the coast of Virginia, the community was so isolated that they all still speak a form of Elizabethan English though over the past few years I think that has begun to erode.

In the crowd of old electronics people I hang out with, they would look at me askance if I referred to this connector as an AMP Mate-N-Lock. On the other hand if I found myself amongst the people Mega Man hangs out with, AMP Connector might be the standard or it least it would be appropriate to differentiate rather than using the generic "molex". No right and wrong here really - it's analogous to congressional districts. My district is an aging populace. Most of the world pronounce router "rooter" and Americans usually pronounce it "rowter" though in the very early days of computers we usually said "rooter" also. Democracy took over.


----------



## Mega Man

True. But doing something because everyone seems does it does not mean it is right.

A great example is freon.

Most hvac guys hate "freon" when used for refrigerants as it is dupont name brand for r22

Adlai feel free to google molex crimping tool to find the correct crimping tool.... you won't


----------



## flemsnopes

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> True. But doing something because everyone seems does it does not mean it is right.
> 
> A great example is freon.
> 
> Most hvac guys hate "freon" when used for refrigerants as it is dupont name brand for r22
> 
> Adlai feel free to google molex crimping tool to find the correct crimping tool.... you won't


It depends on the "committee" that arbitrarily sets he rules for "right" and "wrong" in language. Freon is another example of a generic word. The "committee" your HVAC guy sits on is less than influential with the larger populace and his dislike of people using Freon generically is hardly apt to change anything. It's not as specific as r22, but the larger populace doesn't care. When they are told their air conditioner needs Freon it's unambiguous Lack of ambiguity is the real test for right and wrong.. Do you really say facial tissue rather than Kleenex? Or do you go to a drugstore and ask where you find the acetylsalicylic acid rather than where's the aspirin? I doubt it. Aspirin and Kleenex are trademarked names just like Freon. I fail to see the issue of right and wrong here. It's whether you accept the concept of "generic usage". If you don't you are still free to form your own "usage committee" and try to influence the English speaking world at large. Good luck in that.


----------



## ruffhi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ruffhi*
> 
> I just pulled out my non-modular spare PSU ($30 ... everyone should have one), plugged in the molex connector (or the 4-pin power connector with the funny cut-offs ... keep up the _Not Molex campaign_ Mega-Man!) and powered it up ... she lives!
> 
> I'll check again with the PSU, power cable, etc in the main build and see what happens.


Ok ... I found out why my Aquaero wasn't powering on using the installed PSU and the wire I made for it ... yep ... user error ... I wired the molex (aka 4 pin mate n Lok) cable into the 6-pin PCI-e connector incorrectly. I've now depinned the 6-pin connector ... but now I don't know which black wire is which (I sleeved it). I had put dots on each wire (1, 2, 3, 4) but some of them have rubbed off







.

I could desleeve and then trace the wires individually ... or ... can I use a volt meter to determine which wire is which?

I keep telling people that this build isn't about the build ... it is about learning new stuff. So far, I have experimented with soldering, sleeving, crimping, drilling, design, depinning ... now I get to stray into the world of electronics.


----------



## flemsnopes

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ruffhi*
> 
> Ok ... I found out why my Aquaero wasn't powering on using the installed PSU and the wire I made for it ... yep ... user error ... I wired the molex (aka 4 pin mate n Lok) cable into the 6-pin PCI-e connector incorrectly. I've now depinned the 6-pin connector ... but now I don't know which black wire is which (I sleeved it). I had put dots on each wire (1, 2, 3, 4) but some of them have rubbed off
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> 
> I could desleeve and then trace the wires individually ... or ... can I use a volt meter to determine which wire is which?
> 
> I keep telling people that this build isn't about the build ... it is about learning new stuff. So far, I have experimented with soldering, sleeving, crimping, drilling, design, depinning ... now I get to stray into the world of electronics.


Sort of like being a Rennaissance man isn't? Glad you solved it

https://www.google.com/search?q=standard+molex+pinout&biw=1920&bih=1036&tbm=isch&imgil=nhDjb8Eq1fhorM%253A%253BXHFSBaEhcP_eqM%253Bhttp%25253A%25252F%25252Fwww.smpspowersupply.com%25252Fconnectors-pinouts.html&source=iu&pf=m&fir=nhDjb8Eq1fhorM%253A%252CXHFSBaEhcP_eqM%252C_&usg=__WMoTcN_3v1cu1OAAS7IP9hUComA%3D&ved=0ahUKEwiEieukzfjNAhVI2T4KHaLzD0YQyjcITQ&ei=m3uKV8TPI8iy-wGi57-wBA#imgrc=nhDjb8Eq1fhorM%3A

You can find the pin-out here somewhere.


----------



## ruffhi

Thx ... I have an existing molex to 6-pin that tells me exactly where molex pin #1 should go ... but ... looking at the PCI-e end of my sleeved 4-wire cable (all wires are black) ... I can't tell which wire is plugged into molex pin #1.

Do I need to desleeve and trace individually ... or is this something that a volt meter (or similar) can tell me?


----------



## jsutter71

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ruffhi*
> 
> Thx ... I have an existing molex to 6-pin that tells me exactly where molex pin #1 should go ... but ... looking at the PCI-e end of my sleeved 4-wire cable (all wires are black) ... I can't tell which wire is plugged into molex pin #1.
> 
> Do I need to desleeve and trace individually ... or is this something that a volt meter (or similar) can tell me?


I'm right their with you. I spent a fortune on cables before I realized how to crimp and sleeve. Crimp terminals and wire are a hell of a lot less expensive. I HIGHLY recommend using a volt meter and using a pin out diagram. I customized almost every cable in my current build with the exception of the SATA data and USB 3.0 cables. Be careful because it's easy to fry a power supply or component with a incorrect pin out. I also recommend getting a power supply cable tester. I use Thermaltake Dr. Power II. Anyways to answer your question, the 12 volt connection goes into pin 1.

Here's a good link to get you started.
https://tipidpc.com/viewtopic.php?tid=182400&page=1


----------



## ruffhi

Thanks everyone for your posts ... all good comments and suggestions. I have a PSU cable tester that I thought I had used on this new cable ... maybe I didn't.

Anyway ... pin outs, which is cable #1, etc, etc is not the issue.

I have an existing cable that tells me exactly what goes where. The yellow cable is cable #1 and goes to port #1 on the molex connector. It carries the 12v.










I know which is cable #1 on my made cable (see white mark on molex connector) ... that is port #1 at the molex end ... but I cannot tell which is cable #1 at the other end of the cable. Is the cable that is plugged into port #1 on the molex connect cable A ... or B ... or C ... or D.

How do I tell? That is my question. I can desleeve and trace ... but is there another way?










As I mentioned above ... I did mark each cable before sleeving and thought I had pinned it out correctly (I hadn't). The marks that use to be on the cables have rubbed off.


----------



## rolldog

I have 4 x Swiftech 8 PWM fan splitters I'm using, and they seem to work great. They're powered from a SATA power connector. Since the splitters are all black, I painted mine white to blend in with my case. Of course, I left the small plastic covers over the pins whenever I painted them.


----------



## flemsnopes

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ruffhi*
> 
> Thx ... I have an existing molex to 6-pin that tells me exactly where molex pin #1 should go ... but ... looking at the PCI-e end of my sleeved 4-wire cable (all wires are black) ... I can't tell which wire is plugged into molex pin #1.
> 
> Do I need to desleeve and trace individually ... or is this something that a volt meter (or similar) can tell me?


I second jsutter's recommendation on the Thermaltake Dr. power II. It will tell you if something crucial is mis-wired though not how it's mis-wired. The first step after constructing a cable is to use the connector pinout diagrams and an ohm meter then use a psu checker to double check. If you're young and have a razor sharp mind you may be able to eliminate the PSU checker..I use a PSU checker since I strike out on both the previous counts.


----------



## rolldog

That's why we all love you Darlene... How are things down in the islands? I sure wish I was there. However, I'm still recovering from 26 1/2 hours of flying back home from Thailand, where I've been the last 2 weeks.


----------



## jsutter71

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ruffhi*
> 
> Thanks everyone for your posts ... all good comments and suggestions. I have a PSU cable tester that I thought I had used on this new cable ... maybe I didn't.
> 
> Anyway ... pin outs, which is cable #1, etc, etc is not the issue.
> 
> I have an existing cable that tells me exactly what goes where. The yellow cable is cable #1 and goes to port #1 on the molex connector. It carries the 12v.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I know which is cable #1 on my made cable (see white mark on molex connector) ... that is port #1 at the molex end ... but I cannot tell which is cable #1 at the other end of the cable. Is the cable that is plugged into port #1 on the molex connect cable A ... or B ... or C ... or D.
> 
> How do I tell? That is my question. I can desleeve and trace ... but is there another way?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As I mentioned above ... I did mark each cable before sleeving and thought I had pinned it out correctly (I hadn't). The marks that use to be on the cables have rubbed off.


Ok the quick easy path would be to take an old four pin power cable your not using and remove sleeving if needed, then copy. I recabled my entire power supply that way.


----------



## jsutter71

This is a cable I made and the pinout. I am using a EVGA power supply but the pinout should be the same.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ruffhi*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *ruffhi*
> 
> I just pulled out my non-modular spare PSU ($30 ... everyone should have one), plugged in the molex connector (or the 4-pin power connector with the funny cut-offs ... keep up the _Not Molex campaign_ Mega-Man!) and powered it up ... she lives!
> 
> I'll check again with the PSU, power cable, etc in the main build and see what happens.
> 
> 
> 
> Ok ... I found out why my Aquaero wasn't powering on using the installed PSU and the wire I made for it ... yep ... user error ... I wired the molex (aka 4 pin mate n Lok) cable into the 6-pin PCI-e connector incorrectly. I've now depinned the 6-pin connector ... but now I don't know which black wire is which (I sleeved it). I had put dots on each wire (1, 2, 3, 4) but some of them have rubbed off
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> 
> I could desleeve and then trace the wires individually ... or ... can I use a volt meter to determine which wire is which?
> 
> I keep telling people that this build isn't about the build ... it is about learning new stuff. So far, I have experimented with soldering, sleeving, crimping, drilling, design, depinning ... now I get to stray into the world of electronics.
Click to expand...

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ruffhi*
> 
> Thanks everyone for your posts ... all good comments and suggestions. I have a PSU cable tester that I thought I had used on this new cable ... maybe I didn't.
> 
> Anyway ... pin outs, which is cable #1, etc, etc is not the issue.
> 
> I have an existing cable that tells me exactly what goes where. The yellow cable is cable #1 and goes to port #1 on the molex connector. It carries the 12v.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I know which is cable #1 on my made cable (see white mark on molex connector) ... that is port #1 at the molex end ... but I cannot tell which is cable #1 at the other end of the cable. Is the cable that is plugged into port #1 on the molex connect cable A ... or B ... or C ... or D.
> 
> How do I tell? That is my question. I can desleeve and trace ... but is there another way?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As I mentioned above ... I did mark each cable before sleeving and thought I had pinned it out correctly (I hadn't). The marks that use to be on the cables have rubbed off.


WHOAAAAAA THERE . . . .

The 4 pin connector at the Aquaero needs to have: 5V, gnd, gnd, 12V which is standard for a 4 pin Molex. or whatever you want to call it . . .

6 PCIe connectors have 3X 12V and 3X gnd, but no 5V.

8 pin PCIe connectors have 3X 12V and 5X gnd, but no 5V

*If you try to connect a PCIe connector to a molex, it can't work, and if you put 12V to where it's supposed to have 5V, it's fry the Aquaero*


----------



## jsutter71

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> WHOAAAAAA THERE . . . .
> 
> The 4 pin connector at the Aquaero needs to have: 5V, gnd, gnd, 12V which is standard for a 4 pin Molex. or whatever you want to call it . . .
> 
> 6 PCIe connectors have 3X 12V and 3X gnd, but no 5V.
> 
> 8 pin PCIe connectors have 3X 12V and 5X gnd, but no 5V
> 
> *If you try to connect a PCIe connector to a molex, it can't work, and if you put 12V to where it's supposed to have 5V, it's fry the Aquaero*


Ahh ok..I understand the confusion. Instead of a PCIe 6 pin to 4 pin molex converter cable he should be using a SATA/peripheral power cable. The 6 pin connectors are identical put the terminal pin outs are different. As I indicated in my example, as long as he only connects the 4 wires in the cable and he uses the SATA power plugs on his power supply he will be ok. I'm using the cable in my pic with my Aquaero with no issues. *To be on the safe side you should double check your specific power supplies pin configuration. The pin outs will always be the same on the peripheral end, but that may not necessarily be the same on the power supply itself*
I should have clarified that in my posting.



*THIS pinout is for my EVGA T2 supernova*


----------



## Mega Man

if you dont want to buy a dmm you can make a continuity tester.

light battery and wire .


----------



## ruffhi

Thx Mega Man ... I think you finally understood the question I have been trying to ask. Maybe everyone did and couldn't believe that I was asking such a basic question. It happens. If you want another example of a basic question that is very difficult to find an answer to ...

_Which way does the female power pin_ (see pic in jsutter71 EVGA pin out) _go into the connectors_?

There is 1 right way and 3 wrong ways. And you cannot find out which from google, watching youtube sleeving videos (everyone just says '_... and you insert the pin_') ... it must be so obvious that no one thinks to provide the answer.

Anyway, I googled your simple '_light battery and wire_' comment and found this image ...










... which answered my question. The answer ... grab my multi-meter, connect one probe to pin #1 on the sata end and connect the other probe to any of the wires A, B, C or D ... the correct one will beep.

It also gave me other stuff about a multi-meter that I am sure I will find useful as I read up about them.

The question ... which wire in the molex connects to wire A?


Spoiler: Wiring Question Picture















In the end, I cut the sleeving off and traced each wire. Then it was really easy to put the pins in the correct slots as I already knew where pin #1, #2, #3 and #4 should go (I just didn't know which wire was pin #1, etc).

Thanks all for your comments ... and ... yes ... this is a 6-pin sata out from my PSU. I plugged my newly resleeved cable into the PSU and my Aquaero came to life. Now I just need to find a manual that has a complete run down on all of the 7k menu options.


----------



## rolldog

Since I'm using a Poweradjust 3 Ultra to run each of my D5 pumps, does anything need to be plugged into the RPM header on my Aquaero 6XT? I have Koolance frequency adapters for each of my flow meters, so will this header just remain empty? I'm just want to make sure I'm not missing something.


----------



## MR-e

Hey guys, are temp sensors pin specific on the aquaero? Just wondering if I can fry it by plugging it in wrong or not


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rolldog*
> 
> Since I'm using a Poweradjust 3 Ultra to run each of my D5 pumps, does anything need to be plugged into the RPM header on my Aquaero 6XT? I have Koolance frequency adapters for each of my flow meters, so will this header just remain empty? I'm just want to make sure I'm not missing something.


The RPM header on the Aquaero is an Output . . .

It can be used to send a faux signal to the CPU fan header on the mobo if you can't disable low CPU rpm warning/shutdown in bios, or don't want to.


----------



## Artah

Having some issues with one of my temperature sensors. It just completely dropped out of the list when I go to the sensors tab. I can still see it on my overview page. I'm using AQ6 XT firmware 2004. Anyone ever seen that before? Thanks.


----------



## Costas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sexpot*
> 
> Hey guys, are temp sensors pin specific on the aquaero? Just wondering if I can fry it by plugging it in wrong or not


Nah...they don't matter which way they are orientated. They are really just a fancy resistor so they are not polarised in any way.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ruffhi*
> 
> Thx Mega Man ... I think you finally understood the question I have been trying to ask. Maybe everyone did and couldn't believe that I was asking such a basic question. It happens. If you want another example of a basic question that is very difficult to find an answer to ...
> 
> _Which way does the female power pin_ (see pic in jsutter71 EVGA pin out) _go into the connectors_?
> 
> There is 1 right way and 3 wrong ways. And you cannot find out which from google, watching youtube sleeving videos (everyone just says '_... and you insert the pin_') ... it must be so obvious that no one thinks to provide the answer.
> 
> Anyway, I googled your simple '_light battery and wire_' comment and found this image ...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ... which answered my question. The answer ... grab my multi-meter, connect one probe to pin #1 on the sata end and connect the other probe to any of the wires A, B, C or D ... the correct one will beep.
> 
> It also gave me other stuff about a multi-meter that I am sure I will find useful as I read up about them.
> 
> The question ... which wire in the molex connects to wire A?
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Wiring Question Picture
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In the end, I cut the sleeving off and traced each wire. Then it was really easy to put the pins in the correct slots as I already knew where pin #1, #2, #3 and #4 should go (I just didn't know which wire was pin #1, etc).
> 
> Thanks all for your comments ... and ... yes ... this is a 6-pin sata out from my PSU. I plugged my newly resleeved cable into the PSU and my Aquaero came to life. Now I just need to find a manual that has a complete run down on all of the 7k menu options.


That sucks now I know you have a dmm I could a told you how to find out without cutting the sleeving. Next time you use a setting (ohms or continuity) and you can find out which wire is which sorry you had to go through that


----------



## rolldog

Great, thanks!


----------



## rolldog

Continuity testers really come in handy when sleeving anything.


----------



## ruffhi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> That sucks now I know you have a dmm I could a told you how to find out without cutting the sleeving. Next time you use a setting (ohms or continuity) and you can find out which wire is which sorry you had to go through that


No worries ... took all of 5 minutes. I am really getting this sleeving thing down. Even crimping fan pins is getting better ... I typically now have a 40% failure rate :lol:.

BTW ... the 4-pin cable that Aqua makes for the Aquaero ... there isn't anything special about it ... no risk of making your own 4-pin cable?

Finally, what is a 'dmm'? I read it as an abbreviation for a PSU tester ... but now I an't sure.


----------



## flemsnopes

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ruffhi*
> 
> No worries ... took all of 5 minutes. I am really getting this sleeving thing down. Even crimping fan pins is getting better ... I typically now have a 40% failure rate :lol:.
> 
> BTW ... the 4-pin cable that Aqua makes for the Aquaero ... there isn't anything special about it ... no risk of making your own 4-pin cable?
> 
> Finally, what is a 'dmm'? I read it as an abbreviation for a PSU tester ... but now I an't sure.


digital multi meter. Measures voltage (AC & DC), resistance, and current Some, in addition, can measure temperature


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ruffhi*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> That sucks now I know you have a dmm I could a told you how to find out without cutting the sleeving. Next time you use a setting (ohms or continuity) and you can find out which wire is which sorry you had to go through that
> 
> 
> 
> No worries ... took all of 5 minutes. I am really getting this sleeving thing down. Even crimping fan pins is getting better ... I typically now have a 40% failure rate :lol:.
> 
> BTW ... the 4-pin cable that Aqua makes for the Aquaero ... there isn't anything special about it ... no risk of making your own 4-pin cable?
> 
> Finally, what is a 'dmm'? I read it as an abbreviation for a PSU tester ... but now I an't sure.
Click to expand...

He is correct about the dmm.

As to the 4 pin. No nothing special just need to make one with all 4 pins connected


----------



## MR-e

Hey guys, I just got my loop up and leak tested okay! No leaks







However, it seems my pump is running in granny mode. Does the AC D5 USB default to 100%? I don't have anything powered on right now except for the pump via external PSU. The water seems to be trickling and not enough flow to bleed the loop









Help please on any suggestions?


----------



## ruffhi

I just had that on my loop. I rocked the PC to 45° back and forth, left and right and turned the pump on. Had to add some more water to the loop as the pump cobbled more from the reservoir ... but the flow picked up noticeable.


----------



## ruffhi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *flemsnopes*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *ruffhi*
> 
> what is a 'dmm'?
> 
> 
> 
> digital multi meter. Measures voltage (AC & DC), resistance, and current Some, in addition, can measure temperature
Click to expand...

Thanks. I just got a cheapo one from Amazon.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *ruffhi*
> 
> the 4-pin cable that Aqua makes for the Aquaero ... there isn't anything special about it ... no risk of making your own 4-pin cable?
> 
> 
> 
> As to the 4 pin. No nothing special just need to make one with all 4 pins connected
Click to expand...

And connected in the correct way. I have white and black wire ... I might branch out and get yellow and green. I sleeved them all together into a single strand ... in pink so that I know which is the magic 4-wire Aquaero cable.


----------



## jsutter71

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sexpot*
> 
> Hey guys, I just got my loop up and leak tested okay! No leaks
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> However, it seems my pump is running in granny mode. Does the AC D5 USB default to 100%? I don't have anything powered on right now except for the pump via external PSU. The water seems to be trickling and not enough flow to bleed the loop
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Help please on any suggestions?


Yep I had the same issue. Their was no way I could get 1 AC D5 to power my loop in my STH10. Even with two pumps after working out the bubbles I maxed out at 4.5 LPM. I was only able to properly bleed my loop with both pumps running. That was with both pumps running at 100 percent. The first time I powered them Aquasuite showed then at 50% power.


----------



## MR-e

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ruffhi*
> 
> I just had that on my loop. I rocked the PC to 45° back and forth, left and right and turned the pump on. Had to add some more water to the loop as the pump cobbled more from the reservoir ... but the flow picked up noticeable.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jsutter71*
> 
> Yep I had the same issue. Their was no way I could get 1 AC D5 to power my loop in my STH10. Even with two pumps after working out the bubbles I maxed out at 4.5 LPM. I was only able to properly bleed my loop with both pumps running. That was with both pumps running at 100 percent. The first time I powered them Aquasuite showed then at 50% power.


Thanks guys, it was my external PSU that was the problem. For some reason it didn't give the pump enough juice. I man'd up and just powered on the PC via my 850 P2 and it sent the water pushin'! Everything is good and the bleed process was surprisingly fast!


----------



## GTXJackBauer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sexpot*
> 
> Hey guys, I just got my loop up and leak tested okay! No leaks
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> However, it seems my pump is running in granny mode. Does the AC D5 USB default to 100%? I don't have anything powered on right now except for the pump via external PSU. The water seems to be trickling and not enough flow to bleed the loop
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Help please on any suggestions?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sexpot*
> 
> Thanks guys, it was my external PSU that was the problem. For some reason it didn't give the pump enough juice. I man'd up and just powered on the PC via my 850 P2 and it sent the water pushin'! Everything is good and the bleed process was surprisingly fast!


Was your process of leak testing done from a trickle of flow? I wouldn't call that a complete leak test as I would run that sucker half power at the least through the whole process to build that pressure as it bleeds and I surely wouldn't have powered up the PC after that but hey, that's just my over cautious, paranoid self.


----------



## seross69

If you need some Parts look at the below classifieds, have AQ 6 pro, leds, farbwerk, poweradjust, cables, flow meters etc!! just look in the market place!!

http://www.overclock.net/t/1606266/aquacomputer-cables-and-leds/0_50
http://www.overclock.net/t/1606264/aquacomputer-d5-pump-mechanics-with-usb-and-aquabus/0_50
http://www.overclock.net/t/1606263/aquacomputer-poweradjust-2-usb-ultra-series/0_50
http://www.overclock.net/t/1606262/aquacomputer-aquaero-6-pro-usb-fan-controller/0_50
http://www.overclock.net/t/1606260/aquacomputer-flow-meters/0_50
http://www.overclock.net/t/1606259/bnib-aquacomputer-farbwerk-usb-aquabus-version/0_50


----------



## MR-e

Hey guys, is there a way to edit a flow graph? Mine is min maxed way out of scope! I'd like to lower it from 0 ~ 2.5 gpm


----------



## Costas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sexpot*
> 
> Hey guys, is there a way to edit a flow graph?


Yes...

Just ensure that the padlock symbol is unlocked and then you can edit the various items simply by right clicking on them.


----------



## MR-e

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Costas*
> 
> Yes...
> 
> Just ensure that the padlock symbol is unlocked and then you can edit the various items simply by right clicking on them.


Thanks Costas, I got the graph fixed. Some how, I deleted the numerical value though where it shows the gpm in the title. Will fiddle with it later today when I'm back from work.

Red circle used to show the value:


----------



## jsutter71

Hello all, I know this issue has been discussed at length on a bunch of different threads, but I have a questions about flow rates. With my two AC D5's running in series configuration single loop, I am getting about 4.5 LPM give or take. That's with 4 radiators, 1 CPU block, and 3 GPU's with a EK-FC bridge running in parallel flow. My case is a Caselabs STH10. My pumps are running at about 100% but they are fairly quiet. I read, flow rates higher then 1.5-2.0 LPM won't contribute much to cooling. I would like some opinions based on personal experience. My options are adding a third pump to my loop, and if so I am considering a EK-XTOP, or just another pump side by side. Or just stay with my current configuration. Any thoughts or suggestions?


----------



## GTXJackBauer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jsutter71*
> 
> Hello all, I know this issue has been discussed at length on a bunch of different threads, but I have a questions about flow rates. With my two AC D5's running in series configuration single loop, I am getting about 4.5 LPM give or take. That's with 4 radiators, 1 CPU block, and 3 GPU's with a EK-FC bridge running in parallel flow. My case is a Caselabs STH10. My pumps are running at about 100% but they are fairly quiet. I read, flow rates higher then 1.5-2.0 LPM won't contribute much to cooling. I would like some opinions based on personal experience. My options are adding a third pump to my loop, and if so I am considering a EK-XTOP, or just another pump side by side. Or just stay with my current configuration. Any thoughts or suggestions?


Not sure if I would go with 3 D5s as you should be ok. .The actual sweet spot is 1.0-1.5 GPM for an efficient running loop. Those numbers were tested from Martin'sliquidlab.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jsutter71*
> 
> Hello all, I know this issue has been discussed at length on a bunch of different threads, but I have a questions about flow rates. With my two AC D5's running in series configuration single loop, I am getting about 4.5 LPM give or take. That's with 4 radiators, 1 CPU block, and 3 GPU's with a EK-FC bridge running in parallel flow. My case is a Caselabs STH10. My pumps are running at about 100% but they are fairly quiet. I read, flow rates higher then 1.5-2.0 LPM won't contribute much to cooling. I would like some opinions based on personal experience. My options are adding a third pump to my loop, and if so I am considering a EK-XTOP, or just another pump side by side. Or just stay with my current configuration. Any thoughts or suggestions?


Why are you not happy with that? That is about ~1.2 GPM which is perfectly fine. You can even drop the flow down to 0.5 GPM and you would still most likely be fine with your components. What is your goal? To reach even higher flow for..?.. or to cool efficiently and with the less noise?


----------



## jsutter71

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Why are you not happy with that? That is about ~1.2 GPM which is perfectly fine. You can even drop the flow down to 0.5 GPM and you would still most likely be fine with your components. What is your goal? To reach even higher flow for..?.. or to cool efficiently and with the less noise?


I am not happy or unhappy with my current flow. I was mostly looking for comparisons from other people to determine whether or not I should add another pump. As far as my goal is concerned, I want to be able to have flexibility with my pumps. Given the choice and budget, I would rather have three pumps running at 50% to obtain the same results as two running at full power.


----------



## Costas

Only real advantage running 3 pumps will be the reduced noise due to the lower pump drive requirement.

Overall it just boils down to how fussy you are wrt noise being generated by the pumps.

As stated by others, flows in excess of 1.5 GPM have very little effect.

When testing my DejaVu build, I found that even running down at 0.8 GPM flow rates, it had very minor impacts on temps.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jsutter71*
> 
> I am not happy or unhappy with my current flow. I was mostly looking for comparisons from other people to determine whether or not I should add another pump. As far as my goal is concerned, I want to be able to have flexibility with my pumps. Given the choice and budget, I would rather have three pumps running at 50% to obtain the same results as two running at full power.


Here we go. These are approximate figures for you restriction curve but you will get the point. The curves for the D5 numbers (1x, 2x, 3x pumps) are exact (save minor differences in adding pump in series). the traced line is your flow with 2x D5 running at 100% (around 1.2 GPM). You can clearly see that even if you run your 3 pumps at 100% you will gain very little in total flow (the point where the blue line cross the 3x pump pressure drop curve) because restriction increase exponentially with flow.

You can do the same calculation for 3x d5 running at let's say 40% if you want (just need to put both of yours d5 running now at 40% to check the flow and approximate the exponential curve using the new traced line).



so bottom line here: you would probably not gain much adding a third pump and to known how much would you gain by been able to run the 3 pumps at lower rpm you would need to estimate the restriction with pumps running at lets say 40 or 60%

numbers came from here:

https://martinsliquidlab.wordpress.com/2012/12/25/swiftech-mcp-655-pwm-drive-pump-review/4/

and a useful reading (which you might already have):

https://martinsliquidlab.wordpress.com/pump-planning-guide/


----------



## GTXJackBauer

Also, if your loop is complex and fairly restrictive, DDC 35Xs or 50X pumps would have been ideal for you since they have more pressure than D5s but are noisier and run warmer. Its the tradeoff between the two really. I'd probably stick with the dual D5s in series you have there since they're still quieter at 100% than DDCs.

I use the MCP35X2s as they can get noisy once they cross the 40%-50% mark. I can't test them too high because of the bad design of the reservoir I have here (Maelstrom) as they'll end up sucking in air which so happens everytime I start up the PC and the AQ 6 since by default, the pumps get 100% power for a few seconds before the profile settings kick in. I got used to the screams of air being sucked in by now.


----------



## rolldog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ruffhi*
> 
> Thanks. I just got a cheapo one from Amazon.
> And connected in the correct way. I have white and black wire ... I might branch out and get yellow and green. I sleeved them all together into a single strand ... in pink so that I know which is the magic 4-wire Aquaero cable.


Good! I was just thinking about cutting all the extra wire hanging around my Aquaero 6XT and 2 Poweradjusts. Now I can make them just long enough to run from one to another and get rid of this cable clutter.


----------



## dseg

Is an Aquaero 7 in the works?

I am interested in buying the 6 XT - this is the best one currently, correct? Buy I can wait a few months if an Aquaero 7 is coming out.
Where is a reputable place to buy these from? I see there is about a $15-$20 price difference between PerformancePC and AquaTuning.


----------



## Mega Man

There is no "best" one. Choose the one that meets your needs.

Both are reputable.

One will come from Europe the other from usa


----------



## badrobit

Hi All,

New to the forums and looking to get an Aquaero to control the fans and pump in my new water cooling build I was wondering if anyone has any idea of either of these temperature sensors would work with the Auqaero:

http://www.aliexpress.com/store/product/G1-4-10K-black-temperature-water-stop-sealing-plug-water-cooling-PC-Application-Accessories/431286_1701567170.html

http://www.aliexpress.com/store/product/G1-4-10K-SILVER-temperature-water-stop-sealing-plug-water-cooling-PC-Application-Accessories/431286_1701619456.html

Thanks in advance for your help!


----------



## Mega Man

Yes. Without looking they will. The aq uses 10kohm sensors. Worst case you would need to replace pins connectors to 2 pin Dupont connectors


----------



## Barefooter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dseg*
> 
> Is an Aquaero 7 in the works?
> 
> I am interested in buying the 6 XT - this is the best one currently, correct? Buy I can wait a few months if an Aquaero 7 is coming out.
> Where is a reputable place to buy these from? I see there is about a $15-$20 price difference between PerformancePC and AquaTuning.


No word on any Aquaero 7. I wouldn't wait, just get the Aquaero 6 XT, you'll love it!


----------



## Bear907

Got mine recently from PPCS. I picked up the pro. Only difference between pro and XT is the remove, and I can live without that.


----------



## Barefooter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bear907*
> 
> Got mine recently from PPCS. I picked up the pro. Only difference between pro and XT is the remove, and I can live without that.


Yeah, I really wanted the remote too. Funny thing is I never use it.


----------



## Mega Man

I love them on ht pcs. If ac will ever release the ir module it will be epic for ht pcs.

Also there are 4 more "touch" buttons on the bottom of the screan on the XT vs pro


----------



## InfoSeeker

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sexpot*
> 
> Hey guys, is there a way to edit a flow graph? Mine is min maxed way out of scope! I'd like to lower it from 0 ~ 2.5 gpm


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sexpot*
> 
> Thanks Costas, I got the graph fixed. Some how, I deleted the numerical value though where it shows the gpm in the title. Will fiddle with it later today when I'm back from work.
> 
> Red circle used to show the value:


Not sure if you have dealt with this already, but the numeric sensor value display is probably a separate object that is now hidden behind the chart.
Make the page editable, right click on the chart and select "send to background". Hopefully it pops up for you.


----------



## ruffhi

Is there any trick to connecting pumps to Aquaero?

I have both case fans plugged into FAN1. I have my 6 pedestal fans plugged into FAN2. I can control both of these sets of fans via PWM (yet to set up a curve).

I have my pump plugged into FAN3 ... but aquasuite is not reporting any rpm and it doesn't appear I can control the pump speed. My pump is a Aquacomputer D5 Pump Mechanics with RPM Signal. I've connected my flow meter and I am getting 1.5 gpm (1 pump, no CPU or GPU block).

Under aquasuite, the pump tab is empty ... but the fan tab is showing 4 sets of fans (1 and 2 reporting real numbers, 3 and 4 showing zero rpm).


----------



## Mega Man

No trick. Something may be wrong surg wiring (Pin pushed out ect ) or pump RPM signal failed


----------



## ruffhi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> No trick. Something may be wrong surg wiring (Pin pushed out ect ) or pump RPM signal failed


Yeah ... I will look into my cables, crimps, etc.

Stupid user error ... again. I used a non-Ruff made 4-pin extension cable and the rpm and Aquaero dialed right up to 4800 or so.

I need to do more QA on my cables.


----------



## MR-e

Still better than me ruffbro, I have to buy my cables


----------



## Mega Man

Meh it happens all the time to everyone


----------



## saintruski

So I'm looking at getting a new case that has no 5.25 inch bay. Is it possible for my aquaero 6 XT to work with the faceplate/touchscreen removed, mount it inside connect everything to it, connect it to the USB header and use the aquasuite to control it? Will it work this way and with the touch screen removed essentially making it an aquaero 5 LT with more outputs.


----------



## InfoSeeker

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *saintruski*
> 
> So I'm looking at getting a new case that has no 5.25 inch bay. Is it possible for my aquaero 6 XT to work with the faceplate/touchscreen removed, mount it inside connect everything to it, connect it to the USB header and use the aquasuite to control it? Will it work this way and with the touch screen removed essentially making it an aquaero 5 LT with more outputs.


Yes, you can remove the face-plate without detriment to the aquaero's function, other than manual input and display loss.
And yes, you will have full control of the aquaero using aquasuite. Very, very few use the face-plate to control the device.

But no, it will not be like an aquaero 5 LT... it will be an aquaero 6 LT


----------



## saintruski

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *InfoSeeker*
> 
> Yes, you can remove the face-plate without detriment to the aquaero's function, other than manual input and display loss.
> And yes, you will have full control of the aquaero using aquasuite. Very, very few use the face-plate to control the device.
> 
> But no, it will not be like an aquaero 5 LT... it will be an aquaero 6 LT


Thank you so much this was exactly the answer I was hoping for!


----------



## MR-e

^Yep! You can do exactly as described, here's how I made my 6 Pro to an LT model


----------



## saintruski

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sexpot*
> 
> ^Yep! You can do exactly as described, here's how I made my 6 Pro to an LT model


Thanks again for further verification. Makes the Parvum L1.0 a much easier purchase now.


----------



## Artah

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *saintruski*
> 
> So I'm looking at getting a new case that has no 5.25 inch bay. Is it possible for my aquaero 6 XT to work with the faceplate/touchscreen removed, mount it inside connect everything to it, connect it to the USB header and use the aquasuite to control it? Will it work this way and with the touch screen removed essentially making it an aquaero 5 LT with more outputs.


are you getting a DG-87 from evga?


----------



## saintruski

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Artah*
> 
> are you getting a DG-87 from evga?


Parvum L1.0


----------



## badrobit

I am looking at possibly picking up one of the Aquaero systems and I am only looking to run my fans (between 8-12 of them) and possibly monitor temperatures in my water cooling loop. I don't need an LCD display and so I am wondering what benefit I could see for picking the Aquaero 6 over the Aquaero 5 LT?


----------



## Mega Man

3 more pwm channels and better (less heat) vrms if using voltage to control fans


----------



## badrobit

Would I see any benefits if I am only using PWM to control the fans?


----------



## Mega Man

Do you want only 1 channel (All fans and pumps ramp up and down at same )pwm or 4 separate channels


----------



## badrobit

I would prefer to have the ability to control 4 "zones":


Front (360mm rad) push/pull
Top 240mm rad push
Bottom 2x120mm intake
Back 1x120mm out
and all the fans in each of these zones can respond the same.


----------



## GTXJackBauer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *badrobit*
> 
> I would prefer to have the ability to control 4 "zones":
> 
> 
> Front (360mm rad) push/pull
> Top 240mm rad push
> Bottom 2x120mm intake
> Back 1x120mm out
> and all the fans in each of these zones can respond the same.


Then the AQ 6 is your best bet.


----------



## Mega Man

You can also just get the aq6 pro. /hen take off the display if you want a lt


----------



## badrobit

Yeah I was thinking about doing that but its a pretty big jump up in price from the 5 without a screen to a 6 with a screen just to toss the screen. Why don't they ship a 6 without a screen?


----------



## MR-e

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *badrobit*
> 
> Why don't they ship a 6 without a screen?


I spent many nights wondering the same thing... then I just closed my eyes and hit the order submit button. Never looked back since and am very pleased with the Aquaero 6 _LT_


----------



## Mega Man

Shoggy stated they only do the 5lt so they have something in that price range. They would lose money if they did the 6 that low (i am paraphrasing)


----------



## ToxM82

Hello everyone,

There is so much in this thread it is rather hard to find a direct answer so hopefully someone can either point me to a page if they know about it or just help me in general. I am 90% done with my wiring on my new rig and I just mounted my AQ6 Pro lastnight, I want to verify a few things with some knowledged users.

Looking at the back bottom of the AQ6 the first two plugs are "PWM" followed by 1-4 Fan heads. Currently, I am running x8 Thermaltake LED ring fans plugged into a single 8way PWM Fan splitter, I wanted to verify where I should connect the cord coming from the 8way splitter. The splitter actually came with a standard 4pin PWM plug on it, so right now I have it plugged into Fan1. It appears only 2 cables are actually wired which I am assuming is the PWM cables, since the splitter has direct power via a "4pin Molex".

1. Will Fan 1 header on the AQ6 be efficient enough to control my fans? - (I am ok with them all being at the same RPM but I am looking to utilize temp sensors to speed/slow them down).

2. I am using a Aquacomputer D5 pump with PWM input/speed signal, which header on the AQ6 should it go into?

3. May be a dumb question but I just want to be sure, the USB plug at the top goes directly to my MB for software control?

Other then that, everything else seems self explanatory. - Thank you in advanced!


----------



## apw63

aquaero 6 Performance Demonstration This should answer question 1

Question 3 yes


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ToxM82*
> 
> Hello everyone,
> 
> There is so much in this thread it is rather hard to find a direct answer so hopefully someone can either point me to a page if they know about it or just help me in general. I am 90% done with my wiring on my new rig and I just mounted my AQ6 Pro lastnight, I want to verify a few things with some knowledged users.
> 
> Looking at the back bottom of the AQ6 the first two plugs are "PWM" followed by 1-4 Fan heads. Currently, I am running x8 Thermaltake LED ring fans plugged into a single 8way PWM Fan splitter, I wanted to verify where I should connect the cord coming from the 8way splitter. The splitter actually came with a standard 4pin PWM plug on it, so right now I have it plugged into Fan1. It appears only 2 cables are actually wired which I am assuming is the PWM cables, since the splitter has direct power via a "4pin Molex".
> 
> 1. Will Fan 1 header on the AQ6 be efficient enough to control my fans? - (I am ok with them all being at the same RPM but I am looking to utilize temp sensors to speed/slow them down).
> 
> 2. I am using a Aquacomputer D5 pump with PWM input/speed signal, which header on the AQ6 should it go into?
> 
> 3. May be a dumb question but I just want to be sure, the USB plug at the top goes directly to my MB for software control?
> 
> Other then that, everything else seems self explanatory. - Thank you in advanced!


1. yes. set the channel to pwm control. Yes, you can control all fans setting a controller based on you temp sensor in the Aquaero

2. connect to one of the other 3 fan channels in the aquaero and set the channel to pwm control too.

3. yes. be careful with the polarity. The blacks wires are ground and the red is 12 5v. check you MB manual and orientation of the usb 2 port on the MB.

edit - thks Shoggy.


----------



## dseg

If I order another Aquaero 6 XT for another computer, can I just swap units between the two without problems?

My current computer has the red LEDs in the front. Now we can order it with blue LEDs, can I swap the red unit for the blues and not have any problems with the software?
Should just be plug and play - correct?


----------



## Mega Man

You would need to back up settings and then import them.

They won't transfer settings automatically (some people use multiple aquaeros imagine how bad that would be)

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *ToxM82*
> 
> Hello everyone,
> 
> There is so much in this thread it is rather hard to find a direct answer so hopefully someone can either point me to a page if they know about it or just help me in general. I am 90% done with my wiring on my new rig and I just mounted my AQ6 Pro lastnight, I want to verify a few things with some knowledged users.
> 
> Looking at the back bottom of the AQ6 the first two plugs are "PWM" followed by 1-4 Fan heads. Currently, I am running x8 Thermaltake LED ring fans plugged into a single 8way PWM Fan splitter, I wanted to verify where I should connect the cord coming from the 8way splitter. The splitter actually came with a standard 4pin PWM plug on it, so right now I have it plugged into Fan1. It appears only 2 cables are actually wired which I am assuming is the PWM cables, since the splitter has direct power via a "4pin Molex".
> 
> 1. Will Fan 1 header on the AQ6 be efficient enough to control my fans? - (I am ok with them all being at the same RPM but I am looking to utilize temp sensors to speed/slow them down).
> 
> 2. I am using a Aquacomputer D5 pump with PWM input/speed signal, which header on the AQ6 should it go into?
> 
> 3. May be a dumb question but I just want to be sure, the USB plug at the top goes directly to my MB for software control?
> 
> Other then that, everything else seems self explanatory. - Thank you in advanced!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 1. yes. set the channel to pwm control. Yes, you can control all fans setting a controller based on you temp sensor in the Aquaero
> 
> 2. connect to one of the other 3 fan channels in the aquaero and set the channel to pwm control too.
> 
> 3. yes. be careful with the polarity. The blacks wires are ground and the red is 12 v. check you MB manual and orientation of the usb 2 port on the MB.
Click to expand...

To add to the above the 2 channels labeled pwm are NOT for fans EVER!

They are pwm 12v ports. (1a), they are to be used with 12v PWM motors (like actuators ect and leds ie anything else 12v that are able to take pwn


----------



## jsutter71

Hello all, I have two questions.
*1* Would it be redundant to connect my flow 400 alarm to the flow connection on my Aquaero if I already have it connected through USB and aquaport?

*2* If yes to the first question, is their a difference if I connect either the alarm connection on my flow 400, or connect the RPM/Tacho to the CPU fan header on my motherboard? Even though I have my motherboard set up to ignore the error during bootup, it still shows the alarm and I think it may be slowing my boot process.


----------



## Shoggy

The only port where you can connect the mps flow sensor is the aqbaus port and nothing else. It is useful to be able to use its sensor values for alarm actions that are performed by the aquaero.

The rpm signal of the flow sensor can only tell if everything is OK or not while the aquabus connection also transfers the precise data to use different levels like warning and alarm.

@Gabrielzm - red wire of USB is 5V, not 12V


----------



## jsutter71

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> The only port where you can connect the mps flow sensor is the aqbaus port and nothing else. It is useful to be able to use its sensor values for alarm actions that are performed by the aquaero.
> 
> The rpm signal of the flow sensor can only tell if everything is OK or not while the aquabus connection also transfers the precise data to use different levels like warning and alarm.
> 
> @Gabrielzm - red wire of USB is 5V, not 12V


Well my primary issue was getting rid of of the CPU fan error during bootup. I connected the alarm port on my flow 400 to the CPU header on my motherboard and that fixed it.


----------



## Barefooter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jsutter71*
> 
> Well my primary issue was getting rid of of the CPU fan error during bootup. I connected the alarm port on my flow 400 to the CPU header on my motherboard and that fixed it.


The RPM port on the Aquaero is there to send a signal to the motherboard. That's how I have mine hooked up.


----------



## GTXJackBauer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Barefooter*
> 
> The RPM port on the Aquaero is there to send a signal to the motherboard. That's how I have mine hooked up.


So the RPM header on the AQ 6 is used to send a signal to the CPU fan header on the MB to help with shutdowns in case of a emergency you're saying? What signal is sent to the CPU fan header and can the same thing be done with the Flow header on the AQ 6 or is that strictly for flow sensors IIRC.


----------



## Barefooter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GTXJackBauer*
> 
> So the RPM header on the AQ 6 is used to send a signal to the CPU fan header on the MB to help with shutdowns in case of a emergency you're saying? What signal is sent to the CPU fan header and can the same thing be done with the Flow header on the AQ 6 or is that strictly for flow sensors IIRC.


Yes the RPM header on the Aquaero sends a generic signal to the CPU fan header. I'm sure you could set up some kind of alarm, however I've never done that so not sure how. The flow header is just for flow meters.


----------



## jsutter71

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GTXJackBauer*
> 
> So the RPM header on the AQ 6 is used to send a signal to the CPU fan header on the MB to help with shutdowns in case of a emergency you're saying? What signal is sent to the CPU fan header and can the same thing be done with the Flow header on the AQ 6 or is that strictly for flow sensors IIRC.


*
Straight from the MPS manual*

Connector „alarm"
Depending on configuration, this header can either be used as a generic speed signal or as a "open collector" switching signal.The speed signal or the switching signal can be configured to be deactivated or activated in case of an alarm condition for monitoring purposes. For example, a speed signal cable (art. 93111) can be used to connect this header to the CPU fan header of your motherboard.Depending on on the type of motherboard and BIOS settings, emergency shutdown of the PC upon alarm condition or an acoustic alarm may be initiated. Please refer to the motherboard manual for details on functionality and BIOS settings.

I would also like to add that when I made this connection, it ended my CPU fan error during the boot process. It looks like you can do the same thing with your Aquaero pumps with the USB feature. the manual states you can connect the RPM/Tacho connection on the pump to your CPU fan header.


----------



## Mega Man

has anyone figured out the connector number pin # for the flow meter from aquaero ( high flow nonusb ) ?

@IT Diva?


----------



## dseg

Does anyone know how to pull in motherboard fan RPMs to be used as an alarm in the Aquaero software?

I want to say, if my RPMs of fans go below 1000 RPM, do something. But I am not able to pull over the motherboard fan headers.
I am using AIDA64 but still doesn't pull fan RPMs over.

FYI - my pump tacho is on the motherboard fan RPMs.


----------



## GTXJackBauer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dseg*
> 
> Does anyone know how to pull in motherboard fan RPMs to be used as an alarm in the Aquaero software?
> 
> I want to say, if my RPMs of fans go below 1000 RPM, do something. But I am not able to pull over the motherboard fan headers.
> I am using AIDA64 but still doesn't pull fan RPMs over.
> 
> FYI - my pump tacho is on the motherboard fan RPMs.


If you don't have any room left on the AQ and what your asking is just for a signal, your best bet and a pricey one would be to purchase a poweradjust.


----------



## Mega Man

Imo it would be better to use a aq5lt for rpm monitoring.

But really just goo the pump into the cpu fan header and if it stops your mobo will shut off ( most brands do this anyway)


----------



## rolldog

I'm not sure if this is the right forum to ask this or not, but I know Diva uses these.

Is it possible to hook up the Koolance Flow meters on a straight line of acrylic tubing or should they be hooked
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> You would need to back up settings and then import them.
> 
> They won't transfer settings automatically (some people use multiple aquaeros imagine how bad that would be)
> To add to the above the 2 channels labeled pwm are NOT for fans EVER!
> 
> They are pwm 12v ports. (1a), they are to be used with 12v PWM motors (like actuators ect and leds ie anything else 12v that are able to take pwn


Your answer about the PWM connectors on the Aquaero has me thinking. I'm installing some Darkside LEDs and LED strips, which are 12V and have 3 pin connectors. I was told to hook them up to the MB headers, this way, the Darkside LEDs are powered by the 12V connector, but I should be able to control the brightness, similar to how I could change the speed of the fans if they were connected instead. Do you know if these Darkside LEDs can be hooked up to the PWM header on the Aquaero so the Aquaero can power the LEDs, and I can dim/brighten them through the Aquaero instead of using the MB headers?


----------



## Mega Man

You should be able to use the 2 pin pwm headers np. Most leds I have seen are dim able with pwm.

If you don't have the 2 pin connector iirc a 2 1 pin 2.54dupont connectors


----------



## rolldog

These Darkside CONNECT LEDs have specific wiring, and they have 3 pins. They accept a 12V power source, but if connected to a MB header of a voltage controlled header on the Aquaero, then I could use the software to brighten/dim the LEDs. Unfortunately, all 4 of my PWM fans channels are being used, both of my Poweradjust Ultras will be used to voltage control each D5, so are all the headers that could run these 3 pin voltage controlled LEDs used up? If I add a slave Aquaero, would this solve my problem? Would I be able to hook up all these Darkside CONNECT LEDs to the slave and then be able to voltage control the lights through the slave?

Sorry, this is my first Aquaero, so I'm not totally familiar with it yet. Actually, I haven't even been able to turn it on yet.


----------



## Ironsmack

Are these RGB LED's?

If so, cant you just use 1 or 2 farbwerks?

If they're regular LED's... A PA2 can be used the regulate to voltage as well. Unless you're connecting a handful of them, then an LT as a slave is much more economical to do it.


----------



## Mega Man

I would need to see the wiring which atm I don't have time if they are just 12v all you need to do would be to use the 12v pwm 2pin connections


----------



## rolldog

The LEDs I'm installing are Darkside CONNECT LEDs made by Daz. He came up with multiple ways to power these single stranded LEDs and rigid LED strips that run off of a 12V power source. He has wires/extentions to convert them to 3 pin and can be dimmed using voltage control, he has some wires/extentions to convert them to a 4 pin PWM connector, he has some that connect the LEDs to a standard 4 pin MOLEX connector, and all of them are available with pass through options.

https://www.dazmode.com/store/category/connect-g2-cable-options/

I have the extentions that convert all the LEDs to a 3 pin connector and can be connected to MB headers, instead of connecting fans, this way they can still be controlled, but I thought it might be easier to have everything running through my Aquaero 6XT so I can control everything through 1 piece of software. All 4 of my PWM connectors on my Aquaero have 8 fans connected to each one. I also have 2 x Poweradjust Ultras to control both of my D5 pumps. If I wanted to power and be able to dim these LEDs, and instead of using the MB headers and another piece of software, would my best option be to connect them to a slave Aquaero?

This is my first build that I've installed an Aquaero in, so I'm still trying to get familiar with the devices, the connectors, and which devices can be controlled from which connectors. The 2 pin PWM connector has me confused since it has a ground and a 12V PWM signal with a max load of 1 A. Since I already bought a handful of extention cables that also convert the 2 pin LED connector to a 3 pin voltage controlled connector, I don't think a 2 pin PWM connector will work.

I'm not familiar with running a slave Aquaero, but reading about others using one, it seems like that should be able to control 12 to 14 12V LEDs. Adding a third Poweradjust Ultra, I'm assuming, would work since the power output with a heatsink would be 12V, 3.0A, 36 Watts. I would just need to be able to connect every LED together using multiple cables/splitters and get them all on the same 3 pin power connector. Am I correct?


----------



## Chunky_Chimp

I'm surprised these things haven't been talked about yet:

https://modmymods.com/aquacomputer-hubby7-internal-usb-2-0-hub-53230.html

https://modmymods.com/aquacomputer-splitty9-splitter-53231.html

The power setup for the USB hub is a bit strange, IMO, but should work okay for most people.

That fan/Aquabus splitter is _mildly_ disappointing for 2 reasons, first being max output is 5 amps, though if you're only connecting one fan to each connector, unless they're juice-hungry Deltas or something, then it should be more than enough. Second, I was expecting the Aquabus input to be separate so that the Aquasuite can properly differentiate the speed of every fan connected when used as a fan splitter, unless it actually does do that somehow with that specific device and doesn't say so.

A question for Shoggy about using that, now that I'm looking at it closer, when used as an Aquabus splitter, is it for ALL Aquabus devices still supported by the Aquasuite, or only those normally supported by the "high speed" port on the AE5/6? Or have I remembered it wrong and everything still supported by the Aquasuite is in turn supported by the "high speed" port, and therefore supported by the splitter? I'm a bit turned around on this, just trying to clear it up for if/when other people ask.


----------



## Mega Man

There is a jumper that let's you choose between fan or aquabus. Basically the Jumper disables all but one if the rpm signals

5 a is more then plenty

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rolldog*
> 
> The LEDs I'm installing are Darkside CONNECT LEDs made by Daz. He came up with multiple ways to power these single stranded LEDs and rigid LED strips that run off of a 12V power source. He has wires/extentions to convert them to 3 pin and can be dimmed using voltage control, he has some wires/extentions to convert them to a 4 pin PWM connector, he has some that connect the LEDs to a standard 4 pin MOLEX connector, and all of them are available with pass through options.
> 
> https://www.dazmode.com/store/category/connect-g2-cable-options/
> 
> I have the extentions that convert all the LEDs to a 3 pin connector and can be connected to MB headers, instead of connecting fans, this way they can still be controlled, but I thought it might be easier to have everything running through my Aquaero 6XT so I can control everything through 1 piece of software. All 4 of my PWM connectors on my Aquaero have 8 fans connected to each one. I also have 2 x Poweradjust Ultras to control both of my D5 pumps. If I wanted to power and be able to dim these LEDs, and instead of using the MB headers and another piece of software, would my best option be to connect them to a slave Aquaero?
> 
> This is my first build that I've installed an Aquaero in, so I'm still trying to get familiar with the devices, the connectors, and which devices can be controlled from which connectors. The 2 pin PWM connector has me confused since it has a ground and a 12V PWM signal with a max load of 1 A. Since I already bought a handful of extention cables that also convert the 2 pin LED connector to a 3 pin voltage controlled connector, I don't think a 2 pin PWM connector will work.
> 
> I'm not familiar with running a slave Aquaero, but reading about others using one, it seems like that should be able to control 12 to 14 12V LEDs. Adding a third Poweradjust Ultra, I'm assuming, would work since the power output with a heatsink would be 12V, 3.0A, 36 Watts. I would just need to be able to connect every LED together using multiple cables/splitters and get them all on the same 3 pin power connector. Am I correct?


Again you are able to power it with what you have (mostly) the 2pin pwm connector is like $1.20 (so 2.40 total) i doubt any of those led's darks side pull 1 a

A aq5lt at best is only 70. Take one of the ends cut it and test it. Right way ( + to + and - to - ) =light wrong way they don't light up you achieved your goal and saved 68$

(You will need to enable the output in aqua suite too)


----------



## silentLightning

Got a aquaero 6 pro was wondering could I just connect the 3 pin fans to the 4 pin headers?


----------



## Mega Man

Yes assuming you mean the 4 pin fav headers just make sure to set up the headers for voltage control. Iirc they ate at 100% by default


----------



## silentLightning

O
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> Yes assuming you mean the 4 pin fav headers just make sure to set up the headers for voltage control. Iirc they ate at 100% by default[/quote
> 
> Ok, I should set it to voltage control before plugging them in? My first build still working on it, literally didn't know a thing.


----------



## jsutter71

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chunky_Chimp*
> 
> I'm surprised these things haven't been talked about yet:
> 
> https://modmymods.com/aquacomputer-hubby7-internal-usb-2-0-hub-53230.html
> 
> https://modmymods.com/aquacomputer-splitty9-splitter-53231.html
> 
> The power setup for the USB hub is a bit strange, IMO, but should work okay for most people.
> 
> That fan/Aquabus splitter is _mildly_ disappointing for 2 reasons, first being max output is 5 amps, though if you're only connecting one fan to each connector, unless they're juice-hungry Deltas or something, then it should be more than enough. Second, I was expecting the Aquabus input to be separate so that the Aquasuite can properly differentiate the speed of every fan connected when used as a fan splitter, unless it actually does do that somehow with that specific device and doesn't say so.
> 
> A question for Shoggy about using that, now that I'm looking at it closer, when used as an Aquabus splitter, is it for ALL Aquabus devices still supported by the Aquasuite, or only those normally supported by the "high speed" port on the AE5/6? Or have I remembered it wrong and everything still supported by the Aquasuite is in turn supported by the "high speed" port, and therefore supported by the splitter? I'm a bit turned around on this, just trying to clear it up for if/when other people ask.


I'm using the fan/Aquabus splitter set AS a Aquabus splitter. I have all my Aqua computer devices connected through both USB and the the Aquabus port. In addition to my Aquaero 6XT, my devices include two farbwerk, three D5 pumps with USB feature, one flow 400, and one poweradjust 3 ultra version. As the expression goes, Aqua computer saw me coming







Anyways, I have yet to understand the usefulness of connecting everything up through Aquabus port through a splitter as far as the ability, or inability as the case happens to be to control features on the Aquasuite software. Granted YES, I see all my devices in the software as connected, with the splitter, and YES, they all have their own unique bus address, but can I control them individually through the software if for some reason the USB stopped working? The answer to that question is a *BIG FAT NO!!!* So what's the point of using the Aquabus port if you are already connected through USB?

Now my initial perception of the device, the SPLITTY9. The build quality is outstanding. Like my wife's 2015 Mercedes C300 luxury class. Which I'd like to add has already been in the shop twice for some minor electrical issues. Damn Germans.







It's much smaller then the modmytoys splitters I WAS using. The tape and velcro SUCK!!! And not in a good way. Both had to be replaced already with 3M 4646 tape because I have the device mounted about a centimeter above my Aquaero, and as the device warmed up, the stickiness behind the velcro and the tape which holds the PCB onto the portion where the velcro is attached came completely off. Again Damn Germans.







BTW.. My ancestry is about 80% German on both my mother and fathers side. Now back to my gripes and concerns. Other then the tape/velcro issues, and the limitations regarding the ability to control the before mentioned devices connected though it with Aquasuite, I think the device is as equal, or better because of the build quality, then my previous option, which was the modmytoys splitter. I'll give it a solid *B+* No A for Aqua computer Shoggy because of my stickiness issues.









I would also like to add , as a side note, the merits of using 3M 4646 tape. I bought it in 8mm wide and 1 inch wide version from amazon. I used it to replace the adhesive behind my Aqua computer LED strips, and the SPLITTY9, and also my USB hubs. This stuff is incredibly strong, does not come lose even when the case temps heat up, and if I do need to remove it for some reason, does not leave a permanent sticky residue like other tapes. I can not praise it enough. Now that one definitely deserves an *A++*


----------



## Chunky_Chimp

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jsutter71*
> 
> I'm using the fan/Aquabus splitter set AS a Aquabus splitter. I have all my Aqua computer devices connected through both USB and the the Aquabus port. In addition to my Aquaero 6XT, my devices include two farbwerk, three D5 pumps with USB feature, one flow 400, and one poweradjust 3 ultra version. As the expression goes, Aqua computer saw me coming
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Anyways, I have yet to understand the usefulness of connecting everything up through Aquabus port through a splitter as far as the ability, or inability as the case happens to be to control features on the Aquasuite software. Granted YES, I see all my devices in the software as connected, with the splitter, and YES, they all have their own unique bus address, but can I control them individually through the software if for some reason the USB stopped working? The answer to that question is a *BIG FAT NO!!!* So what's the point of using the Aquabus port if you are already connected through USB?
> 
> Now my initial perception of the device, the SPLITTY9. The build quality is outstanding. Like my wife's 2015 Mercedes C300 luxury class. Which I'd like to add has already been in the shop twice for some minor electrical issues. Damn Germans.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's much smaller then the modmytoys splitters I WAS using. The tape and velcro SUCK!!! And not in a good way. Both had to be replaced already with 3M 4646 tape because I have the device mounted about a centimeter above my Aquaero, and as the device warmed up, the stickiness behind the velcro and the tape which holds the PCB onto the portion where the velcro is attached came completely off. Again Damn Germans.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> BTW.. My ancestry is about 80% German on both my mother and fathers side. Now back to my gripes and concerns. Other then the tape/velcro issues, and the limitations regarding the ability to control the before mentioned devices connected though it with Aquasuite, I think the device is as equal, or better because of the build quality, then my previous option, which was the modmytoys splitter. I'll give it a solid *B+* No A for Aqua computer Shoggy because of my stickiness issues.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I would also like to add , as a side note, the merits of using 3M 4646 tape. I bought it in 8mm wide and 1 inch wide version from amazon. I used it to replace the adhesive behind my Aqua computer LED strips, and the SPLITTY9, and also my USB hubs. This stuff is incredibly strong, does not come lose even when the case temps heat up, and if I do need to remove it for some reason, does not leave a permanent sticky residue like other tapes. I can not praise it enough. Now that one definitely deserves an *A++*


You can take it down a notch, I get it.







I didn't think anyone was already using it, but nice to see your input on it. My question still hasn't been answered, though, it's specifically for Shoggy as I'm not seeing anything about compatibility on the pages beyond what can be physically connected.


----------



## jsutter71

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chunky_Chimp*
> 
> You can take it down a notch, I get it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I didn't think anyone was already using it, but nice to see your input on it. My question still hasn't been answered, though, it's specifically for Shoggy as I'm not seeing anything about compatibility on the pages beyond what can be physically connected.


Sometimes my attempt at humor does not translate well through my writing. Anyways, I saw that your question was personally directed towards him, so I did not want to sound like a, subject matter expert. My post was more of a response towards your previous comment, about being surprised that nobody has had much to say about the products.


----------



## Chunky_Chimp

Ah, I see. You'll still be helping others with your input either way.


----------



## jsutter71

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chunky_Chimp*
> 
> Ah, I see. You'll still be helping others with your input either way.


Ok. Well in that case, I can take a stab at it. As far as I know, you would need to use two separate splitters if you still had devices that used the Aquabus low port on the Aquaero 6. I can't speak for the older models as I have not used them. Meaning one splitter for the high and one for the low. But from what I understand, the current firmware deactivated the low port so it should be a non issue. Correct me if I'm wrong Shoogy.


----------



## Mega Man

Correct low speed aqua bus is Eol
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jsutter71*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Chunky_Chimp*
> 
> I'm surprised these things haven't been talked about yet:
> 
> https://modmymods.com/aquacomputer-hubby7-internal-usb-2-0-hub-53230.html
> 
> https://modmymods.com/aquacomputer-splitty9-splitter-53231.html
> 
> The power setup for the USB hub is a bit strange, IMO, but should work okay for most people.
> 
> That fan/Aquabus splitter is _mildly_ disappointing for 2 reasons, first being max output is 5 amps, though if you're only connecting one fan to each connector, unless they're juice-hungry Deltas or something, then it should be more than enough. Second, I was expecting the Aquabus input to be separate so that the Aquasuite can properly differentiate the speed of every fan connected when used as a fan splitter, unless it actually does do that somehow with that specific device and doesn't say so.
> 
> A question for Shoggy about using that, now that I'm looking at it closer, when used as an Aquabus splitter, is it for ALL Aquabus devices still supported by the Aquasuite, or only those normally supported by the "high speed" port on the AE5/6? Or have I remembered it wrong and everything still supported by the Aquasuite is in turn supported by the "high speed" port, and therefore supported by the splitter? I'm a bit turned around on this, just trying to clear it up for if/when other people ask.
> 
> 
> 
> I'm using the fan/Aquabus splitter set AS a Aquabus splitter. I have all my Aqua computer devices connected through both USB and the the Aquabus port. In addition to my Aquaero 6XT, my devices include two farbwerk, three D5 pumps with USB feature, one flow 400, and one poweradjust 3 ultra version. As the expression goes, Aqua computer saw me coming
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Anyways, I have yet to understand the usefulness of connecting everything up through Aquabus port through a splitter as far as the ability, or inability as the case happens to be to control features on the Aquasuite software. Granted YES, I see all my devices in the software as connected, with the splitter, and YES, they all have their own unique bus address, but can I control them individually through the software if for some reason the USB stopped working? The answer to that question is a *BIG FAT NO!!!* So what's the point of using the Aquabus port if you are already connected through USB?
> 
> Now my initial perception of the device, the SPLITTY9. The build quality is outstanding. Like my wife's 2015 Mercedes C300 luxury class. Which I'd like to add has already been in the shop twice for some minor electrical issues. Damn Germans.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's much smaller then the modmytoys splitters I WAS using. The tape and velcro SUCK!!! And not in a good way. Both had to be replaced already with 3M 4646 tape because I have the device mounted about a centimeter above my Aquaero, and as the device warmed up, the stickiness behind the velcro and the tape which holds the PCB onto the portion where the velcro is attached came completely off. Again Damn Germans.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> BTW.. My ancestry is about 80% German on both my mother and fathers side. Now back to my gripes and concerns. Other then the tape/velcro issues, and the limitations regarding the ability to control the before mentioned devices connected though it with Aquasuite, I think the device is as equal, or better because of the build quality, then my previous option, which was the modmytoys splitter. I'll give it a solid *B+* No A for Aqua computer Shoggy because of my stickiness issues.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I would also like to add , as a side note, the merits of using 3M 4646 tape. I bought it in 8mm wide and 1 inch wide version from amazon. I used it to replace the adhesive behind my Aqua computer LED strips, and the SPLITTY9, and also my USB hubs. This stuff is incredibly strong, does not come lose even when the case temps heat up, and if I do need to remove it for some reason, does not leave a permanent sticky residue like other tapes. I can not praise it enough. Now that one definitely deserves an *A++*
Click to expand...

the point of the Aquabus isnt as a backup.

usb control ( how the are set up in aqausuite ) = the device controls itself, some times it just provides info to the pc the aquabus however , when the device is set to aquabus control. allows the unit to be controlled or read by the aquaero

IE the pump is controlled by the aquaero and all the extra ports and sensors are seen and can be used by the aquaero


----------



## faxfan2002

Hi All,

I've been running an aquaero 6 XT for sometime now and just building a new box and I'm expanding my use of the Aqua computer devices.

So I've purchased -

Aqua Computer Aquastream XT USB 12V Pump - Ultra Version
Aqua Computer Aquainlet XT 150ml
Aqua Computer Flow Sensor MPS

So... looking through the non to helpful manuals, my understanding is this -

1. They all need connecting (carefully - line up the arrows as per cable and aqua device?) via usb first to assign an "id / number"
2. Connect the Aquastream XT aqua bus to ??? on the Aquaero 6 XT
3. Connect the flow sensor MPS aqua bus to "flow" on the Aquaero 6 XT
4. Connect the Aquainlet aqua bus (??) to ??? on Aquaero 6 XT

Question the temp connectors on the devices, are these designed to connect to a temp sensor or do they output a temp? I assume you connect a temp sensor and that is then read via the aqua bus on the aquaero?

Also are the aquabus cables just standard 3 pin cables?

Any hints / advice tips would be greatly appreciated!


----------



## rolldog

These Darkside CONNECT LEDs have 2 pins, but I have extensions to convert them to 3 pin 12V, which can then be voltage controlled. They also have cables to convert them to 4 pin PWM connectors instead of 3 pin. All my fan headers on my Aquaero 6XT are being used along with each 3 pin connector on 2 x Poweradjust Ultras. So, given the fact that I'll be using 12-14 LEDs, could I run them all us
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sexpot*
> 
> Still better than me ruffbro, I have to buy my cables


Where do you buy your cables from? I've done some myself, but it's not my favorite thing to do, and I've bought custom cables from probably 5 different places. Originally, modDIY.com, I think, made the best cables, but now, whenever I need custom cables, I usually buy them from Dave at Mainframe Mods. He does an awesome job.


----------



## rolldog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chunky_Chimp*
> 
> I'm surprised these things haven't been talked about yet:
> 
> https://modmymods.com/aquacomputer-hubby7-internal-usb-2-0-hub-53230.html
> 
> https://modmymods.com/aquacomputer-splitty9-splitter-53231.html
> 
> The power setup for the USB hub is a bit strange, IMO, but should work okay for most people.
> 
> That fan/Aquabus splitter is _mildly_ disappointing for 2 reasons, first being max output is 5 amps, though if you're only connecting one fan to each connector, unless they're juice-hungry Deltas or something, then it should be more than enough. Second, I was expecting the Aquabus input to be separate so that the Aquasuite can properly differentiate the speed of every fan connected when used as a fan splitter, unless it actually does do that somehow with that specific device and doesn't say so.
> 
> A question for Shoggy about using that, now that I'm looking at it closer, when used as an Aquabus splitter, is it for ALL Aquabus devices still supported by the Aquasuite, or only those normally supported by the "high speed" port on the AE5/6? Or have I remembered it wrong and everything still supported by the Aquasuite is in turn supported by the "high speed" port, and therefore supported by the splitter? I'm a bit turned around on this, just trying to clear it up for if/when other people ask.


I've already talked with Joe about these, and they just recently came out. I was thinking about buying one of the USB hubs that mounts to the MB, but the USB hub I'm using right now can be stuck to the case anywhere using the velcro. I like to have it as close to the Aquaero as I can get (out of sight) so I don't have to run so many wires so far. Helps with cable management having the USB hub out of sight 6 inches away.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *faxfan2002*
> 
> Hi All,
> 
> I've been running an aquaero 6 XT for sometime now and just building a new box and I'm expanding my use of the Aqua computer devices.
> 
> So I've purchased -
> 
> Aqua Computer Aquastream XT USB 12V Pump - Ultra Version
> Aqua Computer Aquainlet XT 150ml
> Aqua Computer Flow Sensor MPS
> 
> So... looking through the non to helpful manuals, my understanding is this -
> 
> 1. They all need connecting (carefully - line up the arrows as per cable and aqua device?) via usb first to assign an "id / number"
> 2. Connect the Aquastream XT aqua bus to ??? on the Aquaero 6 XT
> 3. Connect the flow sensor MPS aqua bus to "flow" on the Aquaero 6 XT
> 4. Connect the Aquainlet aqua bus (??) to ??? on Aquaero 6 XT
> 
> Question the temp connectors on the devices, are these designed to connect to a temp sensor or do they output a temp? I assume you connect a temp sensor and that is then read via the aqua bus on the aquaero?
> 
> Any hints / advice tips would be greatly appreciated!


1 you need to connect both USB and aquabus. Make sure you put the cables in the correct orientation or you can damage the aquaero (and right port) and yes first set aquabus to priority then if need change address to unique address ( please more you can only use one of a few addresses please see aquaero manual for more info (on mobile can anyone link to it please)

2-4 you will need a 4 pin splitter viewer you have to make sure it passes all 4 pins moist only pass 3 pounds and the 4th is only passed to 1 other fan.
You can use the modmytoys or is it mod my mods idr atm or the aquacomputer splitter

Even the flow sensor! You got the usb version of the flow sensor not the region version

Un numbered question
Yes they connect to am additional sensor


----------



## rolldog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> There is a jumper that let's you choose between fan or aquabus. Basically the Jumper disables all but one if the rpm signals
> 
> 5 a is more then plenty
> Again you are able to power it with what you have (mostly) the 2pin pwm connector is like $1.20 (so 2.40 total) i doubt any of those led's darks side pull 1 a
> 
> A aq5lt at best is only 70. Take one of the ends cut it and test it. Right way ( + to + and - to - ) =light wrong way they don't light up you achieved your goal and saved 68$
> 
> (You will need to enable the output in aqua suite too)


From what I was told, each single LED pulls 30mA. If they're connected using the 2 pin connector on the end of the LED cable, the LED is powered off a 5V rail. If you use one of their CONNECT cables as a splitter, so I can hook up more than one LED per connector, you have an option to buy a splitter with either a 3 pin connector or a 4 pin PWM connector on the base of the splitter, which then switches all the LEDs to run off the 12V rail and allows you to dim them or run them at their brightest setting using a 12V power source. Right now, I have approx 12-14 single LEDs, but I'm probably going to add some of their rigid strips, which come in single colors wired like the single LEDs or some rigid RGB strips, which still run off the white controller box, or you can use a splitter to run 2 RGB strips off one power source, and he also makes a cable to run his rigid RGB strip off of a Farbwerk controller, which I have 2 of. I might do as Ironsmack suggested and run a slave off my Aquaero 6XT because I have a lot of single LEDs, which are glued into my nickel-acylic waterblocks, so I'd like them to be as bright as possible, or have the option to dim some of them if they're too bright, but that means they'll need to be connected to more than one connector.

And I'm far from using Aquasuite. I had to tear down my entire rig to replace my faulty EK radiators after running a leak test, so I'm in the process of putting everything back together with new rads, upgraded CPU, upgraded MB, and upgraded memory, so if anyone wants to by an i7-5960X or 32GB of Kingston HyperX Predator 2400Mhz DDR4 CL12 memory, let me know.


----------



## faxfan2002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> 1 you need to connect both USB and aquabus. Make sure you put the cables in the correct orientation or you can damage the aquaero (and right port) and yes first set aquabus to priority then if need change address to unique address ( please more you can only use one of a few addresses please see aquaero manual for more info (on mobile can anyone link to it please)
> 
> 2-4 you will need a 4 pin splitter viewer you have to make sure it passes all 4 pins moist only pass 3 pounds and the 4th is only passed to 1 other fan.
> You can use the modmytoys or is it mod my mods idr atm or the aquacomputer splitter
> 
> Even the flow sensor! You got the usb version of the flow sensor not the region version
> 
> Un numbered question
> Yes they connect to am additional sensor


Thanks for getting back to me, though I suspect mobile auto correct maybe playing a part here.

So my questions 2 - 4 -

2. Connect the Aquastream XT aqua bus to ??? on the Aquaero 6 XT
3. Connect the flow sensor MPS aqua bus to "flow" on the Aquaero 6 XT
4. Connect the Aquainlet aqua bus (??) to ??? on Aquaero 6 XT

4 pin splitter - make sure all 4 pins are passed, most pass 3 - but where do I connect each device to? or do they all connect to a single connect on the aquaero 6 xt?

reference to the manual would be most helpful.

I am taking my time with the build and getting right so reply when you land near a computer


----------



## rolldog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jsutter71*
> 
> I'm using the fan/Aquabus splitter set AS a Aquabus splitter. I have all my Aqua computer devices connected through both USB and the the Aquabus port. In addition to my Aquaero 6XT, my devices include two farbwerk, three D5 pumps with USB feature, one flow 400, and one poweradjust 3 ultra version. As the expression goes, Aqua computer saw me coming
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Anyways, I have yet to understand the usefulness of connecting everything up through Aquabus port through a splitter as far as the ability, or inability as the case happens to be to control features on the Aquasuite software. Granted YES, I see all my devices in the software as connected, with the splitter, and YES, they all have their own unique bus address, but can I control them individually through the software if for some reason the USB stopped working? The answer to that question is a *BIG FAT NO!!!* So what's the point of using the Aquabus port if you are already connected through USB?
> 
> Now my initial perception of the device, the SPLITTY9. The build quality is outstanding. Like my wife's 2015 Mercedes C300 luxury class. Which I'd like to add has already been in the shop twice for some minor electrical issues. Damn Germans.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's much smaller then the modmytoys splitters I WAS using. The tape and velcro SUCK!!! And not in a good way. Both had to be replaced already with 3M 4646 tape because I have the device mounted about a centimeter above my Aquaero, and as the device warmed up, the stickiness behind the velcro and the tape which holds the PCB onto the portion where the velcro is attached came completely off. Again Damn Germans.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> BTW.. My ancestry is about 80% German on both my mother and fathers side. Now back to my gripes and concerns. Other then the tape/velcro issues, and the limitations regarding the ability to control the before mentioned devices connected though it with Aquasuite, I think the device is as equal, or better because of the build quality, then my previous option, which was the modmytoys splitter. I'll give it a solid *B+* No A for Aqua computer Shoggy because of my stickiness issues.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I would also like to add , as a side note, the merits of using 3M 4646 tape. I bought it in 8mm wide and 1 inch wide version from amazon. I used it to replace the adhesive behind my Aqua computer LED strips, and the SPLITTY9, and also my USB hubs. This stuff is incredibly strong, does not come lose even when the case temps heat up, and if I do need to remove it for some reason, does not leave a permanent sticky residue like other tapes. I can not praise it enough. Now that one definitely deserves an *A++*


This is excellent to know! That's one of my complaints with using double stick tape/velcro. The LED strips always come off first followed by my USB hub. I've tried many different kinds of double stick products, but nothing ever seems to stay in place longer than a week. I'm going to order some of this tape right now.


----------



## rolldog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *faxfan2002*
> 
> Hi All,
> 
> I've been running an aquaero 6 XT for sometime now and just building a new box and I'm expanding my use of the Aqua computer devices.
> 
> So I've purchased -
> 
> Aqua Computer Aquastream XT USB 12V Pump - Ultra Version
> Aqua Computer Aquainlet XT 150ml
> Aqua Computer Flow Sensor MPS
> 
> So... looking through the non to helpful manuals, my understanding is this -
> 
> 1. They all need connecting (carefully - line up the arrows as per cable and aqua device?) via usb first to assign an "id / number"
> 2. Connect the Aquastream XT aqua bus to ??? on the Aquaero 6 XT
> 3. Connect the flow sensor MPS aqua bus to "flow" on the Aquaero 6 XT
> 4. Connect the Aquainlet aqua bus (??) to ??? on Aquaero 6 XT
> 
> Question the temp connectors on the devices, are these designed to connect to a temp sensor or do they output a temp? I assume you connect a temp sensor and that is then read via the aqua bus on the aquaero?
> 
> Also are the aquabus cables just standard 3 pin cables?
> 
> Any hints / advice tips would be greatly appreciated!


From what I can tell, they're regular 3 pin cables. I cut all of mine shorter, and sleeved them, so I didn't have so much excess cable hanging behind my Aquaero, Poweradjusts, and Farbwerk when running the Aquabus cable from one device to another. Once I removed the sleeving that came on the cables, they were standard 3 pin cables. However, I'm still working on my build a and haven't had an opportunity to to turn my PC on yet and use the Aquaero, but after taking the Aquabus cable apart, that's all it seems to be, nothing special, no crossed lines, etc.


----------



## rolldog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> 1 you need to connect both USB and aquabus. Make sure you put the cables in the correct orientation or you can damage the aquaero (and right port) and yes first set aquabus to priority then if need change address to unique address ( please more you can only use one of a few addresses please see aquaero manual for more info (on mobile can anyone link to it please)
> 
> 2-4 you will need a 4 pin splitter viewer you have to make sure it passes all 4 pins moist only pass 3 pounds and the 4th is only passed to 1 other fan.
> You can use the modmytoys or is it mod my mods idr atm or the aquacomputer splitter
> 
> Even the flow sensor! You got the usb version of the flow sensor not the region version
> 
> Un numbered question
> Yes they connect to am additional sensor


It's Modmytoys


----------



## Mega Man

I coils googled it but meh was busy
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rolldog*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> There is a jumper that let's you choose between fan or aquabus. Basically the Jumper disables all but one if the rpm signals
> 
> 5 a is more then plenty
> Again you are able to power it with what you have (mostly) the 2pin pwm connector is like $1.20 (so 2.40 total) i doubt any of those led's darks side pull 1 a
> 
> A aq5lt at best is only 70. Take one of the ends cut it and test it. Right way ( + to + and - to - ) =light wrong way they don't light up you achieved your goal and saved 68$
> 
> (You will need to enable the output in aqua suite too)
> 
> 
> 
> From what I was told, each single LED pulls 30mA. If they're connected using the 2 pin connector on the end of the LED cable, the LED is powered off a 5V rail. If you use one of their CONNECT cables as a splitter, so I can hook up more than one LED per connector, you have an option to buy a splitter with either a 3 pin connector or a 4 pin PWM connector on the base of the splitter, which then switches all the LEDs to run off the 12V rail and allows you to dim them or run them at their brightest setting using a 12V power source. Right now, I have approx 12-14 single LEDs, but I'm probably going to add some of their rigid strips, which come in single colors wired like the single LEDs or some rigid RGB strips, which still run off the white controller box, or you can use a splitter to run 2 RGB strips off one power source, and he also makes a cable to run his rigid RGB strip off of a Farbwerk controller, which I have 2 of. I might do as Ironsmack suggested and run a slave off my Aquaero 6XT because I have a lot of single LEDs, which are glued into my nickel-acylic waterblocks, so I'd like them to be as bright as possible, or have the option to dim some of them if they're too bright, but that means they'll need to be connected to more than one connector.
> 
> And I'm far from using Aquasuite. I had to tear down my entire rig to replace my faulty EK radiators after running a leak test, so I'm in the process of putting everything back together with new rads, upgraded CPU, upgraded MB, and upgraded memory, so if anyone wants to by an i7-5960X or 32GB of Kingston HyperX Predator 2400Mhz DDR4 CL12 memory, let me know.
Click to expand...

Again it does not matter. if the extension (with the 3 pin fan header) is used they will get 12v.

If you take the same cable cut off the fan header, wire it into the 2 pin connector for the 12v pwm for a total of less then 3$ plus shipping you can light up your leds. Which is what I keep telling you
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *faxfan2002*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> 1 you need to connect both USB and aquabus. Make sure you put the cables in the correct orientation or you can damage the aquaero (and right port) and yes first set aquabus to priority then if need change address to unique address ( please more you can only use one of a few addresses please see aquaero manual for more info (on mobile can anyone link to it please)
> 
> 2-4 you will need a 4 pin splitter viewer you have to make sure it passes all 4 pins moist only pass 3 pounds and the 4th is only passed to 1 other fan.
> You can use the modmytoys or is it mod my mods idr atm or the aquacomputer splitter
> 
> Even the flow sensor! You got the usb version of the flow sensor not the region version
> 
> Un numbered question
> Yes they connect to am additional sensor
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for getting back to me, though I suspect mobile auto correct maybe playing a part here.
> 
> So my questions 2 - 4 -
> 
> 2. Connect the Aquastream XT aqua bus to ??? on the Aquaero 6 XT
> 3. Connect the flow sensor MPS aqua bus to "flow" on the Aquaero 6 XT
> 4. Connect the Aquainlet aqua bus (??) to ??? on Aquaero 6 XT
> 
> 4 pin splitter - make sure all 4 pins are passed, most pass 3 - but where do I connect each device to? or do they all connect to a single connect on the aquaero 6 xt?
> 
> reference to the manual would be most helpful.
> 
> I am taking my time with the build and getting right so reply when you land near a computer
Click to expand...

you can daisy chain the aquabus port. All the ports must connect to the Aquaero aquabus port


----------



## rolldog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> I coils googled it but meh was busy
> Again it does not matter. if the extension (with the 3 pin fan header) is used they will get 12v.
> 
> If you take the same cable cut off the fan header, wire it into the 2 pin connector for the 12v pwm for a total of less then 3$ plus shipping you can light up your leds. Which is what I keep telling you
> you can daisy chain the aquabus port. All the ports must connect to the Aquaero aquabus port


I hear what you're saying, but if I keep the 2 pin connector on a single LED wire, then the LED only powers off of a 5V power source and isn't dimmable. After you use one of the 15 different extensions offered, the extensions that convert the 2 pin connector to a 3 pin connector, the LED becomes a voltage controlled dimmable LED running off a 12V rail. Same goes with the extender that converts the 2 pin LED connector to a 4 pin PWM connector, it then runs off a 12V rail and is dimmable.

Are you saying I should just keep the LEDs as is, keep the 2 pin connectors on the LEDs, and they should still work off the 12V rail and be dimmable using the 2 pin PWM headers on the back of the Aquaero?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> I coils googled it but meh was busy
> Again it does not matter. if the extension (with the 3 pin fan header) is used they will get 12v.
> 
> If you take the same cable cut off the fan header, wire it into the 2 pin connector for the 12v pwm for a total of less then 3$ plus shipping you can light up your leds. Which is what I keep telling you
> you can daisy chain the aquabus port. All the ports must connect to the Aquaero aquabus port


I guess there's only one way to find out for sure, but I won't be able to try it until my build is finished. The LEDs come with a 2 pin connector on them. Thee extennsions/splitters that are available either extend the 2 pin, convert to to a 3 pin for voltage control, convert it to a 4 pin PWM, a 4 pin MOLEX, or do one of those plus add 1, 2, 3, or 4 more splitters. Since the LED can b run from a 5V-12V power source, is it possible to to control the brightness of them plugged into the 2 pin PWM header? As I mentioned, this is my first Aquaero setup, and I've never seen a 2 pin PWM header. Can the Aquaero use the 12v rail on the 2 pin PWM to send thee PWM signal instead of using pin 4, like most other PWM connectors? The manual isn't too helpful, but if I had to guess, the Aquaero should be able to able control the brightness on the 2 pin PWM.

One other question I have, unrelated to this, when I was shortening and sleeving my Aquabus wires yesterday, to reduce the nest of wires behind my Aquaero 6XT, 2 PAs, and as Farbwerk, I noticed that I had a short Y connector that had the same kind of sleeving on it that all the other Aquabus wires come with, but the Y connector was 4 pins instead of 3. I found the same Y connector on the Aqua Computer website, and it said it's an Aquabus Y connector. First, I thought all the Aquabus connectors were 3 pin, second, since all Aquabus components can be daisychained, why would someone need a Y connector? I've been shortening all my Aquabus wires to remove some clutter, but a Y connector just seems like it would add an unnecessary wire since everything can be daisychained, unless I'm missing something.

Thanks for all your help. I just want to make sure all my wiring is correct before I finish my build. I would hate to fry one of these components.


----------



## ToxM82

Hello all, I have two questions.

When I boot my rig up from a cold start, say I got up in the AM and go to power it on. I noticed my FANS/Pump stay at 100% for almost 5 full minutes, then my profile finally kicks in and it starts reading the temp sensors "Direct to the AQ Pro6" and starts curving them as intended.

Is there away to ensure they don't start full blast like this at boot?

Also I currently have my pump on a curve chart as Iv been thinking about it, I feel as if this is not best practice... I would think the slower the water the longer the RAD has time to cool it? what is recommended?


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ToxM82*
> 
> Hello all, I have two questions.
> 
> When I boot my rig up from a cold start, say I got up in the AM and go to power it on. I noticed my FANS/Pump stay at 100% for almost 5 full minutes, then my profile finally kicks in and it starts reading the temp sensors "Direct to the AQ Pro6" and starts curving them as intended.
> 
> Is there away to ensure they don't start full blast like this at boot?
> 
> Also I currently have my pump on a curve chart as Iv been thinking about it, I feel as if this is not best practice... I would think the slower the water the longer the RAD has time to cool it? what is recommended?


Pumps ahould be set and forget not enough gain from ramping them up and down! And a lot more noise


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rolldog*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> I coils googled it but meh was busy
> Again it does not matter. if the extension (with the 3 pin fan header) is used they will get 12v.
> 
> If you take the same cable cut off the fan header, wire it into the 2 pin connector for the 12v pwm for a total of less then 3$ plus shipping you can light up your leds. Which is what I keep telling you
> you can daisy chain the aquabus port. All the ports must connect to the Aquaero aquabus port
> 
> 
> 
> I hear what you're saying, but if I keep the 2 pin connector on a single LED wire, then the LED only powers off of a 5V power source and isn't dimmable. After you use one of the 15 different extensions offered, the extensions that convert the 2 pin connector to a 3 pin connector, the LED becomes a voltage controlled dimmable LED running off a 12V rail. Same goes with the extender that converts the 2 pin LED connector to a 4 pin PWM connector, it then runs off a 12V rail and is dimmable.
> 
> Are you saying I should just keep the LEDs as is, keep the 2 pin connectors on the LEDs, and they should still work off the 12V rail and be dimmable using the 2 pin PWM headers on the back of the Aquaero?
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> I coils googled it but meh was busy
> Again it does not matter. if the extension (with the 3 pin fan header) is used they will get 12v.
> 
> If you take the same cable cut off the fan header, wire it into the 2 pin connector for the 12v pwm for a total of less then 3$ plus shipping you can light up your leds. Which is what I keep telling you
> you can daisy chain the aquabus port. All the ports must connect to the Aquaero aquabus port
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> I guess there's only one way to find out for sure, but I won't be able to try it until my build is finished. The LEDs come with a 2 pin connector on them. Thee extennsions/splitters that are available either extend the 2 pin, convert to to a 3 pin for voltage control, convert it to a 4 pin PWM, a 4 pin MOLEX, or do one of those plus add 1, 2, 3, or 4 more splitters. Since the LED can b run from a 5V-12V power source, is it possible to to control the brightness of them plugged into the 2 pin PWM header? As I mentioned, this is my first Aquaero setup, and I've never seen a 2 pin PWM header. Can the Aquaero use the 12v rail on the 2 pin PWM to send thee PWM signal instead of using pin 4, like most other PWM connectors? The manual isn't too helpful, but if I had to guess, the Aquaero should be able to able control the brightness on the 2 pin PWM.
> 
> One other question I have, unrelated to this, when I was shortening and sleeving my Aquabus wires yesterday, to reduce the nest of wires behind my Aquaero 6XT, 2 PAs, and as Farbwerk, I noticed that I had a short Y connector that had the same kind of sleeving on it that all the other Aquabus wires come with, but the Y connector was 4 pins instead of 3. I found the same Y connector on the Aqua Computer website, and it said it's an Aquabus Y connector. First, I thought all the Aquabus connectors were 3 pin, second, since all Aquabus components can be daisychained, why would someone need a Y connector? I've been shortening all my Aquabus wires to remove some clutter, but a Y connector just seems like it would add an unnecessary wire since everything can be daisychained, unless I'm missing something.
> 
> Thanks for all your help. I just want to make sure all my wiring is correct before I finish my build. I would hate to fry one of these components.
Click to expand...

Again. Do not do anything to the 2 pin dupont connector.

Use the fan extension which uses 12v. Cut off the FAN connector and wire it to the 2 pin 12vdc pwm connector.

It should work. Most leds I see are dimmable from pwm. Some are not but the are hardly used it seems

The 4th wire in the aquabus carries 5vdc.

Stuff with a4 pin fat power connector (usually improperly called a "molex connector" ) does not beef or so you can use the 3 pin wire stuff for
Without that power (ie the flow sensors,pump tops ect. Need it to power the MPS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *ToxM82*
> 
> Hello all, I have two questions.
> 
> When I boot my rig up from a cold start, say I got up in the AM and go to power it on. I noticed my FANS/Pump stay at 100% for almost 5 full minutes, then my profile finally kicks in and it starts reading the temp sensors "Direct to the AQ Pro6" and starts curving them as intended.
> 
> Is there away to ensure they don't start full blast like this at boot?
> 
> Also I currently have my pump on a curve chart as Iv been thinking about it, I feel as if this is not best practice... I would think the slower the water the longer the RAD has time to cool it? what is recommended?
> 
> 
> 
> Pumps ahould be set and forget not enough gain from ramping them up and down! And a lot more noise
Click to expand...

It won't hurt the pump however.

How are you controlling your fans. What temp sensor? Is it a software temp sensor. Or one that is connected directly to the aquaero


----------



## GTXJackBauer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ToxM82*
> 
> Hello all, I have two questions.
> 
> When I boot my rig up from a cold start, say I got up in the AM and go to power it on. I noticed my FANS/Pump stay at 100% for almost 5 full minutes, then my profile finally kicks in and it starts reading the temp sensors "Direct to the AQ Pro6" and starts curving them as intended.
> 
> Is there away to ensure they don't start full blast like this at boot?
> 
> Also I currently have my pump on a curve chart as Iv been thinking about it, I feel as if this is not best practice... I would think the slower the water the longer the RAD has time to cool it? what is recommended?


The same thing happens to me but not for 5 mins. More like 5 secs at the most as the AQ's profile I've set from AQ software kicks in and idles it all down. I'm not sure if there is a workaround that. Only way that can stop is if your AQ is constantly being fed power via USB during shutdown which I did originally had and disabled that feature since I didn't like the LEDs being on.


----------



## Mega Man

Sure there is but I need my question answered before I can help. Mine NEVER ramp up


----------



## rolldog

I've been shortening all my wires that connect all my Aquabus devices together, and I noticed the Aquabus connectors on the Poweradjust Ultra 3s are 3 pin instead of 4 pin. some of them are 4 pin and some are 3 pin. The Aquabus header on the Aquaero 6XT and the Farbwerk are 4 pin, but the Poweradjust Ultra 3s have a 3 pin Aquabus header. Right now I have my Aquaero 6XT, a Farbwerk controller, and 2 Poweradjust Ultra 3s. I thought that all the Aqua Computer devices were daisychained together using the Aquabus channel, but with a 3 pin Aquabus connector on the Poweradjusts, how are they supposed to hook up?

Also, do these devices need to be hooked up in any particular order? I found a 4 pin Aquabus Y connector in my pile of Aquacomputer stuff, but if these need to be daisychained, what's the use of a Y connector? Since the PA 3s have 3 pin Aquabus connectors, do they not connect directly to the Aquaero 6XT Aquabus connector or are they more of a standalone device that the Aquasuite software picks up via the USB connector?


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rolldog*
> 
> I've been shortening all my wires that connect all my Aquabus devices together, and I noticed the Aquabus connectors on the Poweradjust Ultra 3s are 3 pin instead of 4 pin. some of them are 4 pin and some are 3 pin. The Aquabus header on the Aquaero 6XT and the Farbwerk are 4 pin, but the Poweradjust Ultra 3s have a 3 pin Aquabus header. Right now I have my Aquaero 6XT, a Farbwerk controller, and 2 Poweradjust Ultra 3s. I thought that all the Aqua Computer devices were daisychained together using the Aquabus channel, but with a 3 pin Aquabus connector on the Poweradjusts, how are they supposed to hook up?
> 
> Also, do these devices need to be hooked up in any particular order? I found a 4 pin Aquabus Y connector in my pile of Aquacomputer stuff, but if these need to be daisychained, what's the use of a Y connector? Since the PA 3s have 3 pin Aquabus connectors, do they not connect directly to the Aquaero 6XT Aquabus connector or are they more of a standalone device that the Aquasuite software picks up via the USB connector?


The devices that use 4 pin get thier power from the AQ the 3 pin have thier own power source.. All the same but why you are better using a 4 pin spliter


----------



## electro2u

Put in an order from aquatuning last night and oh gracious I had to have these when I saw them:

Ordered 2.
Picked up a MPS 200 sensor, too. My 400 wasn't working out anymore once I downgraded to a single d5 and turned it way down to eliminate any noise.
Aquacomputer... why must you make all these cute things?


----------



## rolldog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> The devices that use 4 pin get thier power from the AQ the 3 pin have thier own power source.. All the same but why you are better using a 4 pin spliter


When I purchased all of my Aquaero stuff, I spoke with someone, explained what I was installing, and they sent me the Aquaero 6XT, 2 x Poweradjust Ultras, and 2 x Farbwerk controllers. I was under the impression that these devices are daisychained through the Aquabus header on the 6XT. I would run one Aquabus cable to one device, then use the Aquabus out connector to run to the next device, etc. The Aquabus headers, like on the 6XT, are 4 pin. The Aquabus header on these Farbwerk controllers are 4 pin, but the Aquabus headers on the PA3 Ultras are 3 pin. How am I supposed to connect them?

Since I'm using the PA3 Ultras to run my D5 pumps, I'm using the power cable included with the PA3 Ultras. This cable hooks onto the 4 pin MOLEX connector from the pump and the RPM connector from the pump and connects to a single 3 pin connector on the PA3 Ultra to power the pump and allow me to voltage control the speed of the pump (I'm assuming that's how it works). But what do I connect the 3 pin Aquabus header to? I have 2 PA3 Ultras, which I'm assuming are hooked together using the 3 pin Aquabus in/out connectors, but how does the 3 pin Aquabus connector on the PAs connect to the Aquaero? Does the 3 pin Aquabus header on the PA3 not connect to the Aquaero, and the Aquaero picks it up through the USB connector or am I missing a 4 pin to 3 pin Aquabus cable?

I just want to make sure everything is connected correctly from the beginning, so if someone can answer this for me, I would really appreciate it.


----------



## dseg

I have two pumps I want to monitor the RPMs with. But I have all 4 of my fan outlets used.
Where can plug them in for RPM monitoring? The fan (pump) connector only has the tacho pin - I am thinking I can use the RPM outlet as one?


----------



## ruffhi

It is my understanding that the PWM is for sending information OUT of the Aquaero ... not INTO the Aquaero. I have seen references to using it to report information to the motherboard.


----------



## InfoSeeker

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dseg*
> 
> I have two pumps I want to monitor the RPMs with. But I have all 4 of my fan outlets used.
> Where can plug them in for RPM monitoring? The fan (pump) connector only has the tacho pin - I am thinking I can use the RPM outlet as one?


Which pumps do you have (make & model)?
And no, RPM port will not help you.


----------



## dseg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *InfoSeeker*
> 
> Which pumps do you have (make & model)?
> And no, RPM port will not help you.


I have a D5 pump with tacho
Why would the RPM not work? That seems like all I need for at least one pump.


----------



## InfoSeeker

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dseg*
> 
> I have a D5 pump with tacho
> Why would the RPM not work? That seems like all I need for at least one pump.


From your description "D5 pump with tacho", I will assume you have the Aqua Computer D5 pump motor with USB and aquabus interface, as it is the only pump they have with a "tacho" port on the back.

If so, you are in a sweet place, and you can monitor all pump parameters, inclusive rpm, via the aquabus.

If not, provide the make (manufacturer) & manufacturer model for your pumps.

The rpm port on the aquaero and the tacho port on the back of aquacomputer pump both generate and output a fictitious RPM signal that you can connect to the mobo processor fan port. The rpm/tacho outputs can then be turned off with the alarm module, which could automatically shut down the mobo if the bios is set to do so. Neither port has anyhing to do with actual pump or fan rpm.


----------



## dseg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *InfoSeeker*
> 
> From your description "D5 pump with tacho", I will assume you have the Aqua Computer D5 pump motor with USB and aquabus interface, as it is the only pump they have with a "tacho" port on the back.
> 
> If so, you are in a sweet place, and you can monitor all pump parameters, inclusive rpm, via the aquabus.
> 
> If not, provide the make (manufacturer) & manufacturer model for your pumps.
> 
> The rpm port on the aquaero and the tacho port on the back of aquacomputer pump both generate and output a fictitious RPM signal that you can connect to the mobo processor fan port. The rpm/tacho outputs can then be turned off with the alarm module, which could automatically shut down the mobo if the bios is set to do so. Neither port has anyhing to do with actual pump or fan rpm.


I have this:
https://www.amazon.com/Alphacool-49092-VPP655-Single-Edition/dp/B004CLDMQM/ref=sr_1_fkmr1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1470247486&sr=8-2-fkmr1&keywords=d5+pump+alpha


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dseg*
> 
> I have two pumps I want to monitor the RPMs with. But I have all 4 of my fan outlets used.
> Where can plug them in for RPM monitoring? The fan (pump) connector only has the tacho pin - I am thinking I can use the RPM outlet as one?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dseg*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *InfoSeeker*
> 
> From your description "D5 pump with tacho", I will assume you have the Aqua Computer D5 pump motor with USB and aquabus interface, as it is the only pump they have with a "tacho" port on the back.
> 
> If so, you are in a sweet place, and you can monitor all pump parameters, inclusive rpm, via the aquabus.
> 
> If not, provide the make (manufacturer) & manufacturer model for your pumps.
> 
> The rpm port on the aquaero and the tacho port on the back of aquacomputer pump both generate and output a fictitious RPM signal that you can connect to the mobo processor fan port. The rpm/tacho outputs can then be turned off with the alarm module, which could automatically shut down the mobo if the bios is set to do so. Neither port has anyhing to do with actual pump or fan rpm.
> 
> 
> 
> I have this:
> https://www.amazon.com/Alphacool-49092-VPP655-Single-Edition/dp/B004CLDMQM/ref=sr_1_fkmr1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1470247486&sr=8-2-fkmr1&keywords=d5+pump+alpha
Click to expand...

Since you already have the 4 fan channels in use, you won't be able to monitor the pump's rpm with the Aquaero . .

You could plug it them to unused fan headers on your mobo, at least it would let you see the rpm


----------



## dseg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Since you already have the 4 fan channels in use, you won't be able to monitor the pump's rpm with the Aquaero . .
> 
> You could plug it them to unused fan headers on your mobo, at least it would let you see the rpm


That's what I was doing but I was not able to get the Aquaero software to pull in the RPM readings from AIDA64 so I could set alarms based on the pump speeds.

What about the Aquabus HIGH? Says this could read a flow meter, shouldn't it be able to read a fan tacho?


----------



## Shoggy

The aquabus is a communication port and can not read out any analog signals. It would be like trying to connect a headphone to the network port









As IT Diva said: there is no port left where you can connect the rpm signal of the pump.


----------



## InfoSeeker

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dseg*
> 
> That's what I was doing but I was not able to get the Aquaero software to pull in the RPM readings from AIDA64 so I could set alarms based on the pump speeds.
> 
> What about the Aquabus HIGH? Says this could read a flow meter, shouldn't it be able to read a fan tacho?


If you can see the pump rpm in Aida64 by reading it from the particular mobo fan header it is connected to, you should be able to import that value into aquasuite using a software sensor.
EDIT 2: my bad, I think software sensors are only available for temperatures, but you CAN display the value in the aquasuite monitor page.

As to the aquabus HIGH port, that will only read flow sensors with an aquabus port.

From a safety point of view, it is probably more important to monitor water flow instead of pump rpm.
If there is a leak, the pump may keep spinning, but without water your system will fry.
If water flow goes too low, set the alarm module to cut the RPM output and let the bios shut your system down.

EDIT: ninja'd by Shoggy


----------



## dseg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *InfoSeeker*
> 
> If you can see the pump rpm in Aida64 by reading it from the particular mobo fan header it is connected to, you should be able to import that value into aquasuite using a software sensor.
> EDIT 2: my bad, I think software sensors are only available for temperatures, but you CAN display the value in the aquasuite monitor page.
> 
> As to the aquabus HIGH port, that will only read flow sensors with an aquabus port.
> 
> From a safety point of view, it is probably more important to monitor water flow instead of pump rpm.
> If there is a leak, the pump may keep spinning, but without water your system will fry.
> If water flow goes too low, set the alarm module to cut the RPM output and let the bios shut your system down.
> 
> EDIT: ninja'd by Shoggy


Your right, just temperature sensors come in Aida64. So I wasn't able to sent up an alarm for them.
I have a flow meter and alarm also. I recently had a problem with my pump and was making A LOT of noise and getting really hot.
But the flow was still going, the RPMs were really high though... So I am trying to setup an alarm for the RPM sensor on the pump now for double safety.


----------



## InfoSeeker

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dseg*
> 
> Your right, just temperature sensors come in Aida64. So I wasn't able to sent up an alarm for them.
> I have a flow meter and alarm also. I recently had a problem with my pump and was making A LOT of noise and getting really hot.
> But the flow was still going, the RPMs were really high though... So I am trying to setup an alarm for the RPM sensor on the pump now for double safety.


The only thing I can think of is a "notice alarm" on the aquasuite display page, if you use that.
Make a bar chart the shows the fan header from the mobo you have the pump rpm reporting to, and set it to a red color if it exceeds your rpm limit. It won't shut anything down, but should make you aware.


----------



## Cozmo85

Can i just grab any 12v single color led strips off amazon, wire them to a 2 pin female connector and plug them into one of the pwm ports on the aquaero?

How many led's are safe to run off each pwm port?


----------



## Mega Man

Generally yes most are compatable with pwm. You would need to check amp draw. Up to 1a


----------



## Cozmo85

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> Generally yes most are compatable with pwm. You would need to check amp draw. Up to 1a


Is it 1a per pwm header or 1a total.

Also any way to determine if they are pwm. Looking at these and similar

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00ARYTBFY/ref=s9_simh_gw_p263_d0_i1?ie=UTF8&fpl=fresh&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_s=desktop-1&pf_rd_r=CKYXB5C89WYWDHFTSPRG&pf_rd_t=36701&pf_rd_p=439659db-41fa-4a3b-8e0f-31b9d08e4568&pf_rd_i=desktop


----------



## Chunky_Chimp

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jsutter71*
> 
> Ok. Well in that case, I can take a stab at it. As far as I know, you would need to use two separate splitters if you still had devices that used the Aquabus low port on the Aquaero 6. I can't speak for the older models as I have not used them. Meaning one splitter for the high and one for the low. But from what I understand, the current firmware deactivated the low port so it should be a non issue. Correct me if I'm wrong Shoogy.


I know that, but you guys are missing what I'm trying to ask, and why I'm specifically asking Shoggy. What I want to know is if the old devices that WERE supported on the "low" port would or could be supported on the splitter, since the device support changes applied to the Aquaero on the firmware level rather in the Aquasuite (unless I'm remembering that wrong).


----------



## rolldog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dseg*
> 
> That's what I was doing but I was not able to get the Aquaero software to pull in the RPM readings from AIDA64 so I could set alarms based on the pump speeds.
> 
> What about the Aquabus HIGH? Says this could read a flow meter, shouldn't it be able to read a fan tacho?


You could buy a Poweradjust and hook the pump to it.


----------



## rolldog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cozmo85*
> 
> Can i just grab any 12v single color led strips off amazon, wire them to a 2 pin female connector and plug them into one of the pwm ports on the aquaero?
> 
> How many led's are safe to run off each pwm port?


I was asking the same thing a few days ago, and the Darkside LEDs use 30mA each, so you could run a lot of them.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cozmo85*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> Generally yes most are compatable with pwm. You would need to check amp draw. Up to 1a
> 
> 
> 
> Is it 1a per pwm header or 1a total.
> 
> Also any way to determine if they are pwm. Looking at these and similar
> 
> https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00ARYTBFY/ref=s9_simh_gw_p263_d0_i1?ie=UTF8&fpl=fresh&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_s=desktop-1&pf_rd_r=CKYXB5C89WYWDHFTSPRG&pf_rd_t=36701&pf_rd_p=439659db-41fa-4a3b-8e0f-31b9d08e4568&pf_rd_i=desktop
Click to expand...

1a per channel afaik

And you would need to pull the spec sheet on the LED. Most leds now are pwm able
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chunky_Chimp*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *jsutter71*
> 
> Ok. Well in that case, I can take a stab at it. As far as I know, you would need to use two separate splitters if you still had devices that used the Aquabus low port on the Aquaero 6. I can't speak for the older models as I have not used them. Meaning one splitter for the high and one for the low. But from what I understand, the current firmware deactivated the low port so it should be a non issue. Correct me if I'm wrong Shoogy.
> 
> 
> 
> I know that, but you guys are missing what I'm trying to ask, and why I'm specifically asking Shoggy. What I want to know is if the old devices that WERE supported on the "low" port would or could be supported on the splitter, since the device support changes applied to the Aquaero on the firmware level rather in the Aquasuite (unless I'm remembering that wrong).
Click to expand...

No. Low speed devices are Eol and no longer supported as of one of the firmware updates we were warned when we upgraded and there are no down grades


----------



## Cozmo85

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rolldog*
> 
> I was asking the same thing a few days ago, and the Darkside LEDs use 30mA each, so you could run a lot of them.


Was looking at the darkside, But $20 for 12" is so much compared to ones that you put ends on yourself.

Looks like these

https://www.amazon.com/Flexible-Strip-Lights-Pieces-White/dp/B00ARYTBFY/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1470284961&sr=8-1&keywords=12v+white+led

are 300ma per strip so that should do nicely.


----------



## Shoggy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chunky_Chimp*
> 
> I know that, but you guys are missing what I'm trying to ask, and why I'm specifically asking Shoggy. What I want to know is if the old devices that WERE supported on the "low" port would or could be supported on the splitter, since the device support changes applied to the Aquaero on the firmware level rather in the Aquasuite (unless I'm remembering that wrong).


Not sure what you want to know. If your aquaero has firmware version 2000 or newer it has its aquabus low speed port disabled. The splitter has nothing to do with that.


----------



## faxfan2002

Hi All,

Finally got my rig up and running and couple of problems with the "high flow sensor mps" and Aquainlet XT.

Neither appear to be showing up as USB devices.

Currently there is no aquabus connection and everything is connected via USB, I can see the Aquaero 6 XT and Aquastream XT in the aquasuite software but not he flow sensor or res. I've swapped cables and ports and not matter what I do I can't see either of them.

Any pointers?


----------



## Shoggy

Are you sure that the USB cables are connected the right way? Sounds a bit strange that two devices will not show up.


----------



## faxfan2002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> Are you sure that the USB cables are connected the right way? Sounds a bit strange that two devices will not show up.


Connected in exactly the same way as the pump and the controller, I don't want to change the orientation in case things go bang?

Interestingly I connect the res via aquabus and it's appeared on the bus as "mps" but I'm not seeing any fill level sensors or other information - I guess that may take some hunting.


----------



## Shoggy

Have you used a 3-pin or 4-pin aquabus cable? If it was a 3-pin cable the USB cable must be connected the right way because otherwise the sensor would get no power. If it was a 4-pin cable it does not matter since the sensor will be powered directly through the aquaero in this case.

The fill level sensor will not work correctly until you have done the initial calibration which is only possible via USB. The sensor value will be listed in the sensors tab as fill level sensor. The sensor has no own menu via aquabus. This menu is only visible via USB.


----------



## faxfan2002

I've managed to get the USB working, the res and flow sensor are both wired in exactly the opposite way to the controller and pump!

I have a quick question on the flow sensor - I have "Flow sensor MPS high flow USB" part no. 53129 but when I connect it and set the device to "Flow sensor high flow usb" I just get a blank screen (setting to "flow sensor mps flow" I get a calibration screen) to and can't find the flow sensor data. The manual isn't over helpful - any pointers for me?


----------



## NeeqOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *faxfan2002*
> 
> I've managed to get the USB working, the res and flow sensor are both wired in exactly the opposite way to the controller and pump!
> 
> I have a quick question on the flow sensor - I have "Flow sensor MPS high flow USB" part no. 53129 but when I connect it and set the device to "Flow sensor high flow usb" I just get a blank screen (setting to "flow sensor mps flow" I get a calibration screen) to and can't find the flow sensor data. The manual isn't over helpful - any pointers for me?


Is the Flow sensor detected by your system. As in, can you see it in the aquasuite software? If not then check your USB connection.

Edit: I just carefully read your post again. Have you tried importing the default calibration values for the fittings you are using?


----------



## faxfan2002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NeeqOne*
> 
> Is the Flow sensor detected by your system. As in, can you see it in the aquasuite software? If not then check your USB connection.
> 
> Edit: I just carefully read your post again. Have you tried importing the default calibration values for the fittings you are using?


For the flow sensor when set to device type "Flow sensor high flow USB" (which it defaults to) there is no option to import anything or calibrate anything. Changing device type to "flow sensor mps flow" I have the sensor calibration options available.

Which should I use or does it not matter?

Where is the default calibration data?


----------



## NeeqOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *faxfan2002*
> 
> For the flow sensor when set to device type "Flow sensor high flow USB" (which it defaults to) there is no option to import anything or calibrate anything. Changing device type to "flow sensor mps flow" I have the sensor calibration options available.
> 
> Which should I use or does it not matter?
> 
> Where is the default calibration data?


How is your flow sensor connected? USB or Aquabus?

Can you post a screenshot of your aquasuite?


----------



## faxfan2002

Connected via USB

The default view -



Selecting another device type -


----------



## rolldog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> Have you used a 3-pin or 4-pin aquabus cable? If it was a 3-pin cable the USB cable must be connected the right way because otherwise the sensor would get no power. If it was a 4-pin cable it does not matter since the sensor will be powered directly through the aquaero in this case.
> 
> The fill level sensor will not work correctly until you have done the initial calibration which is only possible via USB. The sensor value will be listed in the sensors tab as fill level sensor. The sensor has no own menu via aquabus. This menu is only visible via USB.


Since you brought this up, if I have both 3 pin and 4 pin Aquabus devices in my system and if I daisychain all them together, I'm assuming that the 3 pin Aquabus devices would be connected last or is there any specific order they should be installed?


----------



## faxfan2002

Anyone help with flow sensor calibration -

I have a Aquastream XT where I've set the speed to 3000rpm (lowest it will go) and on the Aqua MPS flow sensor I have a unscaled value of 745.

How do I tally the two up?

scratch that the unscaled value doesn't change even when I +2000 rpm to the pump! lol


----------



## InfoSeeker

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rolldog*
> 
> Since you brought this up, if I have both 3 pin and 4 pin Aquabus devices in my system and if I daisychain all them together, I'm assuming that the 3 pin Aquabus devices would be connected last or is there any specific order they should be installed?


I suspect you are correct with the assumption that 3-pin cabling should be used beyond 4-pin cabling, as the power feed will be lost after a 3-pin cable. Shoggy will confirm.

But as long as you have a question whether to use 3-pin or 4-pin cabling for aquabus, always use 4-pin cabling.
All aquabus devices will work with 4-pin aquabus cabling, not all aquabus devices will work with 3-pin aquabus cabling.


----------



## faxfan2002

The default view -



Selecting another device type -

[/quote]

Couple of things I tried, changing the device type to the non USB (2nd picture) even though it is a USB one, I did see a non-calibrated sensor reading of 745, this did not change at all increasing / decreasing the pump speed. I then powered of the computer, connect the flow sensor to another computer to reset the flow to zero as a calibration, again this made no difference.

I then connected it via Aquabus where it does appear as "flow 14" but with no data at all.


----------



## Chunky_Chimp

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> Not sure what you want to know. If your aquaero has firmware version 2000 or newer it has its aquabus low speed port disabled. The splitter has nothing to do with that.


Right. I suppose what I'm actually getting at here is if the splitter itself supports the old "low speed" devices that were EOL'd by newer firmware/Aquasuite versions, so that you could connect the splitter to the high speed port, then the devices that used to connect to the low speed port can run from the splitter. I'm not expecting a positive answer, just clarification.


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chunky_Chimp*
> 
> Right. I suppose what I'm actually getting at here is if the splitter itself supports the old "low speed" devices that were EOL'd by newer firmware/Aquasuite versions, so that you could connect the splitter to the high speed port, then the devices that used to connect to the low speed port can run from the splitter. I'm not expecting a positive answer, just clarification.


No if the firmware has not be updated then they need to be hook to the low speed bus the spliter is no different than any other but the quality is better it is just a splittet or combiner if the firmware has been updated then the low speed devices will not work this is what shoggy has said several times


----------



## Chunky_Chimp

I'm not talking about connecting the splitter to the low speed port. I'm talking about connecting low speed devices to the splitter, then connecting the splitter to the high speed port. I don't want an answer to a question I didn't ask, and I'm not asking about the low speed port, only devices.


----------



## Costas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chunky_Chimp*
> 
> I'm talking about connecting low speed devices to the splitter, then connecting the splitter to the high speed port.


That won't work as low speed devices are not compatible with the high speed port. Once you lose the low speed port functionality you also lose the ability to connect any low speed devices to the Aquaero - Splitters have no impact on this.

So when you lose the low speed port on the Aquaero all low speed devices now become defunct.

From memory there is a warning when you attempt to flash the firmware indicating that if you have any low speed devices to stay with the older firmware.

With the last few firmware updates... IIRC the low speed port functionality was dropped to make room for other features in their coding.

Hopefully that makes more sense...


----------



## Chunky_Chimp

It does, thanks, that sounds like the answer I was expecting from Shoggy (and he's viewing now so I'll see what he says later). Will leave a rep.


----------



## Shoggy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *faxfan2002*
> 
> Connected via USB
> 
> The default view -
> 
> (...)
> 
> Selecting another device type -
> 
> (...)


If you own the high flow sensor with USB (part no. 53129) you have to select "flow sensor high flow USB". This will not give you any configuration options since there is nothing to configure. The other device type scan be selected since the controller board is the same in all of them but it will not work of course. When set to the correct device type and you still got no signal you should remove the sensor from the loop and check if its impeller spins easily when you blow some air into it. If not, then you should open it to check if something is blocking the impeller.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rolldog*
> 
> Since you brought this up, if I have both 3 pin and 4 pin Aquabus devices in my system and if I daisychain all them together, I'm assuming that the 3 pin Aquabus devices would be connected last or is there any specific order they should be installed?


There is no specific order in general but devices that you want to use via a 4-pin connection (powered through aquaero) must have a direct connection of course. You can not go from a 4-pin cable to a 3-pin cable which goes into another 4-pin cable. For the data communication it will be fine but since you cut the 4th line there will be no more power for the devices that come behind it.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *faxfan2002*
> 
> Anyone help with flow sensor calibration -
> 
> I have a Aquastream XT where I've set the speed to 3000rpm (lowest it will go) and on the Aqua MPS flow sensor I have a unscaled value of 745.
> 
> How do I tally the two up?
> 
> scratch that the unscaled value doesn't change even when I +2000 rpm to the pump! lol


As said above, you have to select the correct sensor type. If you are using an mps flow 100/200/400 sensor you will have to select "flow sensor mps flow". In the sensor calibration the calibration curve must be set to the variant of your sensor (100/200/400) and next to it you have to select the tubing size. If your tubing size is larger than what you get from the drop down menu, than use the largest one available. Afterwards click import calibration data. As said: makes only sense if you have such an sensor - for a high flow sensor with an impeller it will not make not any difference.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chunky_Chimp*
> 
> Right. I suppose what I'm actually getting at here is if the splitter itself supports the old "low speed" devices that were EOL'd by newer firmware/Aquasuite versions, so that you could connect the splitter to the high speed port, then the devices that used to connect to the low speed port can run from the splitter. I'm not expecting a positive answer, just clarification.


Well, it seems you have a completely wrong understanding of the aquabus here. Like many others already tried to tell you it is not possible to use lowspeed devices (do you even own one?!) with an aquaero anymore. I think we can ignore that firmware thing completely here because it is hard to believe that someone would use such an old firmware till today.

Using lowspeed devices on the highspeed port would also not work even if your aquaero still has the older firmware with the lowspeed support.

- update -

OK, seems that your misunderstanding is based on the impression that the splitter is an aquabus device. No, it is just a "stupid" splitter with no electronic that could manange anything on its own.


----------



## Chunky_Chimp

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> OK, seems that your misunderstanding is based on the impression that the splitter is an aquabus device. No, it is just a "stupid" splitter with no electronic that could manange anything on its own.


I see, that wraps it up, thanks.


----------



## Domiro

The fan amps on my AQ5 are getting pretty hot, 70C with heatsink installed. Most likely because I'm drawing close to the limit on watts/amps.

Would powering the 8 fans per hub (2 hubs) off of a molex alleviate this problem?


----------



## Mega Man

If you want them to run fullspeed


----------



## Domiro

No, that's not the intention.


----------



## electro2u

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Domiro*
> 
> The fan amps on my AQ5 are getting pretty hot, 70C with heatsink installed. Most likely because I'm drawing close to the limit on watts/amps.
> 
> Would powering the 8 fans per hub (2 hubs) off of a molex alleviate this problem?


As I understand things, this is not abnormal or worrisome.


----------



## Mega Man

Iirc 90c is

70c is normal operating procedure


----------



## Domiro

Fair enough.

In hindsight, I swapped from PWM to 3-pin fans. They were connected to the AQ only through the PWM and RPM signal and the power came off of a molex connector. The amps ran much cooler, some 30 to 40 degrees.

Maybe i'll fashion a mount of some sort with room for a smaller fan to blow cool air over it.


----------



## pclausen

Hey guys, new member here. Apologies in advance for this rather lengthy first post!

I'm considering a single 6 PRO (too bad they don't make a 6 LT as I'll probably be removing the display portion) to control the fans in my primary and backup media servers.

The primary server consists of a single SuperMicro 846 4U 24 disk chassis loaded with 12 6TB drives and 12 4 TB drives.

The backup server consists of 3 of the same 846 chassis' loaded with 60 2TB drives. The first chassis contains the motherboard and chassis' 2 and 3 only contains disks (and a power controller).

Each chassis contain 3 midplane fans that control the front to back airflow. Here are a couple of shots of the primary server to give you an idea of the layout:



















The fans are all 4 pin PWM units, namely these 80mm ones:










And here's a shot of one of the chassis with just drives in them and a power controller:










The problem I have is that the neither the Supermicro motherboards (X10-SLR-F) not the power controller boards, allows fine tuning of fan speed and it is not related to chassis temp at all. I pretty much only have a choice of 4 fixed speeds as seen in the IPMI screenshot below:










So at the moment, all 12 fans are running at a very high speed, consumes a lot of power, and make a lot of noise. The hard drives all idle down when not in use, but the fans keep screaming along. So, I was thinking that a single 6 Pro, with its 4 PWM channels, could control the fan speed in all 4 chassis. I would of course need to mount a temp probe in each chassis, which would then control the speed of the fans to whatever set point I choose. My goal is to keep the hard drives in each chassis from going above 40C, so whatever probe temp that translates to, is what I need configure the probe in each chassis for. I'm sure the set points will be different in each chassis as the the drives have different heat signatures and how much heat they generate is very dependent on the load on the server, and during scrubs, they will generate the most heat, and next to nothing when idled down.

In a prefect world, I would poll the drives via SMART to determine which hard disk was hottest, and then adjust the fan speed accordingly, but as far as I know the Aquaero software doesn't support that. I wrote a little script that goes out and polls the drives. Here's what it spits out for the main chassis:










If I can somehow feed those drive temps into the controller software, awesome, but if not, playing around with the probe temp settings and fan curves will get me there I think.

I figured I'd pick up 4 of the SilverStone CPF04 PWM 8 way Fan Hubs (wish they made a 4 way) and install one in each chassis. Since the fans are rather beefy at 1.1A a pop, that would be safer I would think, than trying to run 3.3A worth of fans directly of each channel on the 6 PRO.

The 4 chassis are all install in a rack in the basement, flush with a wall. Here's what it looks like:










And I have plenty of access around back and have the ability to pull out each chassis for service as needed:










Closer look at the back side of the 846 stack:










I'm thinking I would mount the 6 PRO inside one of the disk only chassis (this is why I wish they made a 6 LT), and then run 4 pin cables for the fans and 2 pin cables for the probes, to the other 3 chassis.

So does this sound like a job the 6 PRO would be capable of? I have close to $20k invested in this stack of 4 chassis, and they live and die by the fans operating as they should, so I need to make sure that this solution will be reliable.


----------



## rolldog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> There is no specific order in general but devices that you want to use via a 4-pin connection (powered through aquaero) must have a direct connection of course. You can not go from a 4-pin cable to a 3-pin cable which goes into another 4-pin cable. For the data communication it will be fine but since you cut the 4th line there will be no more power for the devices that come behind it.


Thanks for the info. I was just thinking about my wiring between the devices, which include some Poweradjusts to run my D5 pumps. Also, I just ordered one of your new SPLITTY9s. Looks like a great product.


----------



## Mega Man

@pclausen

Yes I think it would work fine. You may think of an intake to exhaust delta to control everything. Idk if that is able to achieve what you want but I think it would . (2 two sensors per chassis )

Another idea would be 1 aq per chassis. You could then mount multiple temp sensors in all chassis to help average temps.. (at minimum 8 temp sensors per chassis )

Imo this is one area where water cooling shines water cooling allows for even temps through outknow if you have any further questions


----------



## pclausen

@Mega Man,

Yeah, I would like to have 2 probes per chassis, but the primary source of heat are the 24 hard drives in the very front of each chassis. I can't really put a probe in front of them except to put it in the room itself, which I suppose could be an option. Here's a pic showing the front loading nature of the drives:



So I could have a single "room temp probe" and then a probe in each chassis either in the small open area right behind the drives, or in the larger open area aft of the midplane with the 3 fans.

Again, the goal is the keep the fans in each chassis spinning just fast enough to keep the drive temps from going above 40C. Right now they are all in the mid to upper 20s, so the fans can be slowed down a lot and temps still won't climb into the 40s. All 3 fans are currently spinning at between 5,800 and 6,100 RPM.

I'll probably go ahead and pick up one 6 PRO and do just the production chassis first, and go from there.

I was thinking about pickup up a 2U face panel and punch out a 5.25" opening in it so that the display would be visible in the front of the rack. I looked around to see if anyone made such a thing, but I haven't found one yet. I hate metal work.


----------



## Mega Man

That is very true and a great idea Idk why I didn't think of it 1 ambient sensor


----------



## BelowAverageIQ

Disregard, worked it out. I am an idiot.


----------



## zumppjr96

My concerns/questions may have some answers buried in the midst of replies, so I apologize if I missed it while searching. I will explain my situation. I have an Aquaero 5 LT. The fan controller will be populated as such, 1 3pin fan handling rear exhaust, 1 3 pin handling LED strips from Darkside, and 1 3pin handling a D5 Pump. I will be running 6 EKWB Vardar 140mm PWM fans (all exactly the same) and plan to run them at the same speed through the PWM fan port. They have an amp rating of .35amps per fan which brings the total amps to roughly 2 amps. That should be too much for the PWM fan port to handle on the Aquaero. Based on many mixed messages among forums that I've scanned, supplemental power to the fans should help to alleviate the issue and allow me to run all the fans on the PWM port. I have seen a few options for this, 4pin PWM fan splitters that include a molex connection for power, PWM hubs with a power source, etc. I would like to make sure that I am on the right track, and I have a couple solutions that are appealing.

http://www.performance-pcs.com/modmytoys-4-pin-pwm-power-low-profile-distribution-pcb-6-way-block.html

^I have worked with Modmytoys hubs before and they have worked well, at least for my 3 pin devices in other computers. This one looks to have a SATA power connection, 6 PWM fan connections, and 1 output PWM connection. The details about these hubs are pretty vague, any input about the operation would be appreciated.

https://modmymods.com/aquacomputer-splitty9-splitter-53231.html & https://modmymods.com/phobya-y-cable-for-pwm-splitter-4-pin-pwm-to-4-pin-pwm-4pin-molex-50cm-black-1012263.html

^This seems to match well with the Aquaero as far as being mountable and I would bet the build quality is great. The cable would power the hub while also allowing it to be controlled by the Aquaero's PWM fan port. I may misunderstand the layout of the splitter, please correct me if I am wrong.

Any help is greatly appreciated.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zumppjr96*
> 
> My concerns/questions may have some answers buried in the midst of replies, so I apologize if I missed it while searching. I will explain my situation. I have an Aquaero 5 LT. The fan controller will be populated as such, 1 3pin fan handling rear exhaust, 1 3 pin handling LED strips from Darkside*, and 1 3pin handling a D5 Pump*. I will be running 6 EKWB Vardar 140mm PWM fans (all exactly the same) and plan to run them at the same speed through the PWM fan port. They have an amp rating of .35amps per fan which brings the total amps to roughly 2 amps. *That should be too much for the PWM fan port to handle on the Aquaero*. Based on many mixed messages among forums that I've scanned, supplemental power to the fans should help to alleviate the issue and allow me to run all the fans on the PWM port. I have seen a few options for this, 4pin PWM fan splitters that include a molex connection for power, PWM hubs with a power source, etc. I would like to make sure that I am on the right track, and I have a couple solutions that are appealing.
> 
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/modmytoys-4-pin-pwm-power-low-profile-distribution-pcb-6-way-block.html
> 
> ^I have worked with Modmytoys hubs before and they have worked well, at least for my 3 pin devices in other computers. This one looks to have a SATA power connection, 6 PWM fan connections, and 1 output PWM connection. The details about these hubs are pretty vague, any input about the operation would be appreciated.
> 
> https://modmymods.com/aquacomputer-splitty9-splitter-53231.html & https://modmymods.com/phobya-y-cable-for-pwm-splitter-4-pin-pwm-to-4-pin-pwm-4pin-molex-50cm-black-1012263.html
> 
> ^This seems to match well with the Aquaero as far as being mountable and I would bet the build quality is great. The cable would power the hub while also allowing it to be controlled by the Aquaero's PWM fan port. I may misunderstand the layout of the splitter, please correct me if I am wrong.
> 
> Any help is greatly appreciated.


The D5 takes about 2A, so it's also too much of a load for the A5 on a 3 pin channel.

You could use the Aquabus port and a Power Adjust 3 for it though instead.

The varders will be OK on the single PWM channel if you use a powered splitter as you envision.

The new one from AC looks quite nice.


----------



## zumppjr96

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> The D5 takes about 2A, so it's also too much of a load for the A5 on a 3 pin channel.
> 
> You could use the Aquabus port and a Power Adjust 3 for it though instead.
> 
> The varders will be OK on the single PWM channel if you use a powered splitter as you envision.
> 
> The new one from AC looks quite nice.


Thanks for the input IT Diva. I did forget to mention that the D5 pump is a purchase for the near future, and right now I am leaning towards the AC w/ Aquabus or a Vario version with molex and 3 pin connections. Based on that I should be set as far as avoiding overloading the channels.

P.S. Love all the builds btw.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zumppjr96*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> The D5 takes about 2A, so it's also too much of a load for the A5 on a 3 pin channel.
> 
> You could use the Aquabus port and a Power Adjust 3 for it though instead.
> 
> The varders will be OK on the single PWM channel if you use a powered splitter as you envision.
> 
> The new one from AC looks quite nice.
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for the input IT Diva. I did forget to mention that the D5 pump is a purchase for the near future, and right now I am leaning towards the AC w/ Aquabus or a Vario version with molex and 3 pin connections. Based on that I should be set as far as avoiding overloading the channels.
> 
> P.S. Love all the builds btw.
Click to expand...

The Aquabus/USB one from AC is a bit more expensive, but would hands down, give you the best level of integration, since it would be well covered in Aquasuite for control and monitoring.


----------



## Mads1

I was just going to use a swiftech 8-way pwm splitter, to connect my 6 x vardars to the AQ 6XT i might just use 2 x fans on a 2-way splitter now and to one channel and the other4 x fans on the swfitech to another channel, i think i can do that. although i may change to the new corsair ml120 pro but still do the same thing as mentioned. then the EK D5 pwm pump gen2 to one of the other channels.


----------



## ruffhi

I've been playing around with Aquasuite ... experimenting with different page layouts, looks, etc. Once I have put together the info I want, I plan to slap it on my desk top so that it is nearly always available.

There are some good suggestions and ideas floating around (google images) ... but one thing that I haven't seen is a chart that shows multiple items. All the charts just show one item (temp, flow, RPMs, etc). Can you put together a chart that shows ...

- ambient temp
- water temp
- cpu temp


----------



## apw63

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ruffhi*
> 
> I've been playing around with Aquasuite ... experimenting with different page layouts, looks, etc. Once I have put together the info I want, I plan to slap it on my desk top so that it is nearly always available.
> 
> There are some good suggestions and ideas floating around (google images) ... but one thing that I haven't seen is a chart that shows multiple items. All the charts just show one item (temp, flow, RPMs, etc). Can you put together a chart that shows ...
> 
> - ambient temp
> - water temp
> - cpu temp


I make a graph of what I want. I make the background of the graph transparent. Set the graph up the way I want it and assign a source. After that I just copy and paste the graph. change the graph to the next source and drop it right on top of the original graph. It works best if all of the temp scales are the same. There maybe an easier way to do it, this is just how I do it.

I attached an image of an old control panel. You can see the different graph I created using this process.


----------



## ruffhi

@apw63 ... excellent. Thanks for the reply.

+REP


----------



## InfoSeeker

You can also use the aquasuite logging function... it allows multiple variables to be charted, and/but each variable will show it's associated Y axis.

I had one set to show the output power from my PSU vs. the loop's temperature... interesting correlation








Unfortunately my system is down atm and I cannot post a screen shot.


----------



## pclausen

So I got my Aquaro 6 yesterday and have been playing around with it having 4 PWM fans directly connected to it. Works great.

So today I put the Silverstone SST-CPF04 on fan channel 1 and connected a bunch of PWM fans to the hub. They are all running at full RPM and no RPM is being reported back to aquasuite, and I'm unable to control their speed.

I was under the impression this particular hub was compatible. This one:



Fans connected:



And the 2 wire cable going to the controller for RPM and PWM signals (or so I thought).



All 4 fan channels are already set to PWM and everything was working great with the fans connected directly to the controller.

Defective Silverstone, or?


----------



## pclausen

Moved to fan channel #2 and I can control the speed, but still no RPM being reported back. Blew away the curve I had configured on fan channel #1 and switched back to it. Can control speed there now as well, but no RPM being reported.


----------



## willemdoom

If I recall correctly the problem with the Silverstone hub is that all rpm wirers are reporting which makes for a big mess inside the controller, essentially you should cut off all but one of the rpm reporting pins. But dont quote me on all this.

EDIt: nevermind, this was with the nzxt grid hub, but maybe it also goes for this one


----------



## ruffhi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pclausen*
> 
> So I got my Aquaro 6 yesterday and have been playing around with it having 4 PWM fans directly connected to it. Works great.
> 
> So today I put the Silverstone SST-CPF04 on fan channel 1 and connected a bunch of PWM fans to the hub. They are all running at full RPM and no RPM is being reported back to aquasuite, and I'm unable to control their speed.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


I have that exact fan hub ... and I can see exactly what the issue is.

In the above picture, you have 7 fans connected to an 8 fan hub. You managed not to use the outlet that is the most critical. See the top right outlet ... see how it looks a little different than the rest? That is the one outlet that reports RPMs.


----------



## GTXJackBauer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ruffhi*
> 
> I have that exact fan hub ... and I can see exactly what the issue is.
> 
> In the above picture, you have 7 fans connected to an 8 fan hub. You managed not to use the outlet that is the most critical. See the top right outlet ... see how it looks a little different than the rest? That is the one outlet that reports RPMs.


Good eye captain!










I was scratching my head with this one earlier thinking he might have not set the channel to PWM but he had stated that he did that already.


----------



## Iceman2733

I am looking to buy a 6xt this weekend, can u guys point me in the direction of where I can get a 3 pin fan hub that can support at least 7 fans. Also I want to verify from what I have read I think this is correct but this controller can control 3pin fans correct non pwm? I have quite a few corsair AF fans in my sma8, I want to control my two loops separate and than the case fans separate. Pretty much 7-140mm fans for gpu, 4-120mm. Fans for cpu and than 4-120 case fans. What would be the best way with hubs to do this?

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## pclausen

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ruffhi*
> 
> I have that exact fan hub ... and I can see exactly what the issue is.
> 
> In the above picture, you have 7 fans connected to an 8 fan hub. You managed not to use the outlet that is the most critical. See the top right outlet ... see how it looks a little different than the rest? That is the one outlet that reports RPMs.


That fixed it. What are the odds..... Too funny. I just randomly plugged in those 7 fans not noticing that one port having a slightly raised glossy cover on it compared to the rest. That is probably what threw my custom curve for a loop and decided to just run the fans at max to be safe.

Thanks!


----------



## Mads1

Was it reported that corsair fans on pwm dont work with a AQ6xt if that was the case, what about the new corsair ML120 pro, i might be wrong but im sure some people had previous problems with the old AF and SP fans, just want to make sure before a go and buy a bunch of the new ML120 fans.


----------



## BelowAverageIQ

Hi Crew,

Can you connect a Corsair AX1200i to the Aquaero 6XT to monitor power??


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Iceman2733*
> 
> I am looking to buy a 6xt this weekend, can u guys point me in the direction of where I can get a 3 pin fan hub that can support at least 7 fans. Also I want to verify from what I have read I think this is correct but this controller can control 3pin fans correct non pwm? I have quite a few corsair AF fans in my sma8, I want to control my two loops separate and than the case fans separate. Pretty much 7-140mm fans for gpu, 4-120mm. Fans for cpu and than 4-120 case fans. What would be the best way with hubs to do this?
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


You can control both voltage and pwm fans yes I would buy either the aquacomputer hub or the mod my mods hub
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BelowAverageIQ*
> 
> Hi Crew,
> 
> Can you connect a Corsair AX1200i to the Aquaero 6XT to monitor power??


What do you mean? Monitor the 12v? All the volts ? Amp draws?


----------



## InfoSeeker

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BelowAverageIQ*
> 
> Hi Crew,
> 
> Can you connect a Corsair AX1200i to the Aquaero 6XT to monitor power??


No, you cannot use the aquaero, but you can use aquasuite.

You must have the AX1200i Link channel connected to the motherboard, BUT the Link software must NOT be running (conflicts).
Then either HWiNFO or AIDA64 can pickup the power-out as reported by the PSU.
With that you can bring it into aquasuite and display it on the overview page as you wish.


----------



## BelowAverageIQ

InfoSeeker and Megaman thankyou both for the replies and information. Cheers.

InfoSeeker, that is what I plan to do. Awesome.


----------



## rolldog

I'm have a Corsair AX1200i as well, and I just bought some Corsair Dominator memory, which looks like it also has a connector for the Corsair Link software to monitor it. Are you saying not to install the Corsair Link software because it's incompatible with the Aquasuite software, but the Aquasuite software can monitor the PSU and the memory like the Corsair Link software does? I have no idea what it monitors on the memory since my rig isn't up and running right now, but I assume Temps of the memory since the voltages and everything are set in the BIOS.


----------



## InfoSeeker

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rolldog*
> 
> I'm have a Corsair AX1200i as well, and I just bought some Corsair Dominator memory, which looks like it also has a connector for the Corsair Link software to monitor it. Are you saying not to install the Corsair Link software because it's incompatible with the Aquasuite software, but the Aquasuite software can monitor the PSU and the memory like the Corsair Link software does? I have no idea what it monitors on the memory since my rig isn't up and running right now, but I assume Temps of the memory since the voltages and everything are set in the BIOS.


The problem is between the Link software and both HWiNFO and AIDA64, not aquasuite.
I believe Corsair uses some non-slandered protocols or something.

There is one clarification I forgot about... the Link software should not be installed, but the Link driver should be installed.

Click HERE to view an HWiNFO forum thread discussing the issue.


----------



## rolldog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *InfoSeeker*
> 
> The problem is between the Link software and both HWiNFO and AIDA64, not aquasuite.
> I believe Corsair uses some non-slandered protocols or something.
> 
> There is one clarification I forgot about... the Link software should not be installed, but the Link driver should be installed.
> 
> Click HERE to view an HWiNFO forum thread discussing the issue.


Awesome, thanks for the info. I'll check out this thread.


----------



## ruffhi

Speaking of delta ... I have AIDA64 installed and, via that software, I can see the temps for my 6 cores as well a some other temps that have CPU in their name. In the aquasuite, I can't see all 6 cores ... sometimes I can see 3, now 4.

What is going on?

Also, is there an AIDA64 temperature setting that is the average of the 6 cores? Or do I construct one? Or do I just select one of the cores and use that in my delta calculation? What is the difference between CPU temp, CPU package temp, etc?

Finally ... do I run the delta between ambient air temp and water temp ... or ambient air temp and 'cpu' temp? I can see the first being less reactive as the water temp will reflect the CPU temp that is (effectively) run through a moving average calculation. Not as volatile, slower to react, etc, etc.

On the flip side ... I don't really care about the water temp, I care about the cpu temp.









Note: screenshots were not taken at the same time.


----------



## apw63

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ruffhi*
> 
> Speaking of delta ... I have AIDA64 installed and, via that software, I can see the temps for my 6 cores as well a some other temps that have CPU in their name. In the aquasuite, I can't see all 6 cores ... sometimes I can see 3, now 4.
> 
> What is going on?
> 
> Also, is there an AIDA64 temperature setting that is the average of the 6 cores? Or do I construct one? Or do I just select one of the cores and use that in my delta calculation? What is the difference between CPU temp, CPU package temp, etc?
> 
> Finally ... do I run the delta between ambient air temp and water temp ... or ambient air temp and 'cpu' temp? I can see the first being less reactive as the water temp will reflect the CPU temp that is (effectively) run through a moving average calculation. Not as volatile, slower to react, etc, etc.
> 
> On the flip side ... I don't really care about the water temp, I care about the cpu temp.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Note: screenshots were not taken at the same time.


I use the inline temp sensor on my last RAD out. and the ambient temp for my delta. I have all 3 of my RADs in series. Most all water coolers evaluate their systems cooling eff using this method.

Core temps are the distance to tjmax. CPU temp is the temp from the temp probe on the cpu chip. People have a lot of emotion when it comes to what is the best temp to use, or what is the most valid temp to use. core temps or CPU temp. Ill let you make your own decision.


----------



## GTXJackBauer

You'll want to use the air and water temp for deltas.

A healthy and happy loop will always take care of the rest, i.e. CPU, GPU, etc.


----------



## roamin

hello everyone, i have not had time to search as im at work sorry but is there anyone here who can tell me what size the threads are on the front of the aquaero 6 that hold the faceplate on. the 4 front countersunk screws with a hex head. i need to know the thread pitch and diameter as i have machined out the front of a caselabs panel to direct fit the aquaero 6 for a friend, i need to get 4 button head screws for him too so i can send him the panel and screws for fitment into his s8

thank you


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *roamin*
> 
> hello everyone, i have not had time to search as im at work sorry but is there anyone here who can tell me what size the threads are on the front of the aquaero 6 that hold the faceplate on. the 4 front countersunk screws with a hex head. i need to know the thread pitch and diameter as i have machined out the front of a caselabs panel to direct fit the aquaero 6 for a friend, i need to get 4 button head screws for him too so i can send him the panel and screws for fitment into his s8
> 
> thank you


m3 countersunk. get a 8 mm length.


----------



## roamin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> m3 countersunk. get a 8 mm length.


Thank you for the info.

Ps: the adverts on this site are terrible. 5 goes at trying to reply to this without an advert taking over my phone screen


----------



## InfoSeeker

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *roamin*
> 
> Thank you for the info.
> 
> Ps: the adverts on this site are terrible. 5 goes at trying to reply to this without an advert taking over my phone screen


mhmm, I don't access this site using a mobile device, but on my PC I see absolutely no adds. Hacked?


----------



## roamin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *InfoSeeker*
> 
> mhmm, I don't access this site using a mobile device, but on my PC I see absolutely no adds. Hacked?


Nah its just adverts they use. I have adblock on my main rig and its not unusual to block 5-10 adverts per refresh in chrome.

we have a winner, refreshed this page on my laptop and adblock stopped 17 adverts. yep 17


----------



## apw63

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *roamin*
> 
> Nah its just adverts they use. I have adblock on my main rig and its not unusual to block 5-10 adverts per refresh in chrome.
> 
> we have a winner, refreshed this page on my laptop and adblock stopped 17 adverts. yep 17


Sounds like some form of malware. I get no adverts on my iphone, ipad or PC.


----------



## roamin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *apw63*
> 
> Sounds like some form of malware. I get no adverts on my iphone, ipad or PC.


i know of others who use this site with adblock who have the same thing. this site has more then enough adverts, thats for sure.
this is the only site with this issue too.
its all good, thats why things like adblock are invented. to stop this stuff.

back on topic and sorry for the side shoot off topic


----------



## GTXJackBauer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *roamin*
> 
> hello everyone, i have not had time to search as im at work sorry but is there anyone here who can tell me what size the threads are on the front of the aquaero 6 that hold the faceplate on. the 4 front countersunk screws with a hex head. i need to know the thread pitch and diameter as i have machined out the front of a caselabs panel to direct fit the aquaero 6 for a friend, i need to get 4 button head screws for him too so i can send him the panel and screws for fitment into his s8
> 
> thank you


These are the exact screws that fit perfectly. I tried the 8mm and were too long.


----------



## roamin

M3 is the right thread but unfortunately 8mm in length was also wrong for me. 5mm would be a much better option. I bought m3x8 today.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *roamin*
> 
> M3 is the right thread but unfortunately 8mm in length was also wrong for me. 5mm would be a much better option. I bought m3x8 today.


That is the length I used to do exactly the same thing you are doing:




5 mm is the default screw size that comes with the aquaero. But if you are using on to integrate on the case front and a tad more length would be required. I am afraid 5 mm will be too short but it might work....In any case is easy to cut 1-2 mm out of the 8 mm if it is too long for you case.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GTXJackBauer*
> 
> These are the exact screws that fit perfectly. I tried the 8mm and were too long.


did you integrate on the case or did you just used to replace the frontplate? For normal use with the frontplate 6 mm is just perfect and better than the 5 mm. But if you are incorporating on the case between 6-8 would be better depending on the thickness of the case and the amount of countersunk you are doing on the case.


----------



## roamin

I intend to remove the front face plate. It looks like you have kept your faceplate on your aquaero. Thats where the difference will be in length im guessing.


----------



## Barefooter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mads1*
> 
> Was it reported that corsair fans on pwm dont work with a AQ6xt if that was the case, what about the new corsair ML120 pro, i might be wrong but im sure some people had previous problems with the old AF and SP fans, just want to make sure before a go and buy a bunch of the new ML120 fans.


The Corsair fans will work but the more fans you have per channel the less range of PWM control you will have. You won't be able to get the RPMs as low as with one or two fans.

Unfortunately the new Corsair fans use the same protocol as the old fans. This review discusses it:
http://thermalbench.com/2016/07/29/corsair-ml140-pro-140-mm-fan/


----------



## GTXJackBauer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> did you integrate on the case or did you just used to replace the frontplate? For normal use with the frontplate 6 mm is just perfect and better than the 5 mm. But if you are incorporating on the case between 6-8 would be better depending on the thickness of the case and the amount of countersunk you are doing on the case.


It was just a replacement to a black faceplate.


----------



## Mads1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Barefooter*
> 
> The Corsair fans will work but the more fans you have per channel the less range of PWM control you will have. You won't be able to get the RPMs as low as with one or two fans.
> 
> Unfortunately the new Corsair fans use the same protocol as the old fans. This review discusses it:
> http://thermalbench.com/2016/07/29/corsair-ml140-pro-140-mm-fan/


I will be using a Swiftech powered PWM Splitter, so im not sure the same applies.


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mads1*
> 
> I will be using a Swiftech powered PWM Splitter, so im not sure the same applies.


It still applies as the priblem is how corsair did not follow the specs for pmw fans


----------



## roamin

hey everyone, just needing some help deciding what im doing.

i currently run a aquaero 5 xt and want to run 10 fans, 3 on 3 rads, one rear exhaust 140mm on a new build im doing. all corsair sp120 except for 1 140mm sp140.

will i be able to run these over all the different headers on the 5 xt or do i need to switch over to aquaero 6?

will be running the aquacomputer d5 with aquabus, aqualis 450ml res with fill level sensor, farbwerk and so on all via aquabus!


----------



## bkvamme

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *roamin*
> 
> hey everyone, just needing some help deciding what im doing.
> 
> i currently run a aquaero 5 xt and want to run 10 fans, 3 on 3 rads, one rear exhaust 140mm on a new build im doing. all corsair sp120 except for 1 140mm sp140.
> 
> will i be able to run these over all the different headers on the 5 xt or do i need to switch over to aquaero 6?
> 
> will be running the aquacomputer d5 with aquabus, aqualis 450ml res with fill level sensor, farbwerk and so on all via aquabus!


You should be just fine, as long as you are not intending to control the fans over PWM. If you want four channels with PWM, you need to go to the Aquaero 6's. Each channel on the Aq5 can handle upto 1.6A, and three fans will not be a problem. See the screenshot from the manual:


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> It still applies as the priblem is how corsair did not follow the specs for pmw fans


They did, it's just not very forgiving specs. Intel PWM spec 1.3 is designed with 1 device/header in mind.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> It still applies as the priblem is how corsair did not follow the specs for pmw fans
> 
> 
> 
> They did, it's just not very forgiving specs. Intel PWM spec 1.3 is designed with 1 device/header in mind.
Click to expand...

Bet you could run a crapton of them on the Diva' Dapter, probably better control than just 1 on a regular header . . .









D.


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Bet you could run a crapton of them on the Diva' Dapter, probably better control than just 1 on a regular header . . .
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> D.


You know it! The newer ML fans aren't as bad but I only had 4 of each to be fair. Diva 'Dapter worked great here too.


----------



## ruffhi

I've decided to draw a line under my build. Some items remain on the wish list ... and I will get around to those as and when I can.

I have my fans and pumps controlled by a Aquaero. Pump is running at 60% (there is a teeth cracking resonance at 70%) and flow is a 0.9 gpm. Fans are set at minimum. Build is silent. I am waiting to see if I need to put in a fan curve depending on temps. I think I am close to what I want to see via Aquasuite.

Q1: Can I get the time showing on Aquasuite? I have it on the front panel of the Aquaero.










CaseLabs S5 with Pedestal
Motherboard: ASUS X99-M WS
CPU: Intel Core i7-5820K 3.3GHz
RAM: G.SKILL TridentZ Series 64GB (4 x 16GB) DDR4 3200
Liquid cooled with 2 x 360 rads, Monsoon reservoir, heatkiller IV CPU block, Cryorig fans up the wazoo

More pictures in my build log.


----------



## GTXJackBauer

Ok so can someone explain to me if this flow meter will work the same as this flow meter? Will either or both show up properly on the AQ 6 itself and the software? Anyone have any sample shots of the two to see any differences?

Looking to purchase the first one because I've seen many complaints of the USB/Aquabus version breaking down a lot or not even lasting long, let alone the pain in the butt calibration. As long as the other one isn't too noisy or similar to the Koolance mechanical flow meters, I'm fine by that.


----------



## BelowAverageIQ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GTXJackBauer*
> 
> Ok so can someone explain to me if this flow meter will work the same as this flow meter? Will either or both show up properly on the AQ 6 itself and the software? Anyone have any sample shots of the two to see any differences?
> 
> Looking to purchase the first one because I've seen many complaints of the USB/Aquabus version breaking down a lot or not even lasting long, let alone the pain in the butt calibration. As long as the other one isn't too noisy or similar to the Koolance mechanical flow meters, I'm fine by that.


I have the second (USB) flow meter. Works well, when you locate it and get it to show up on both the AQ6 and software. Mine was showing as #11..............

If you are going to connect it to the AQ6 only, from my limited reading you only need the first. I simply purchased the wrong one. If I need to, will get the first one you posted.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GTXJackBauer*
> 
> Ok so can someone explain to me if this flow meter will work the same as this flow meter? Will either or both show up properly on the AQ 6 itself and the software? Anyone have any sample shots of the two to see any differences?
> 
> Looking to purchase the first one because I've seen many complaints of the USB/Aquabus version breaking down a lot or not even lasting long, let alone the pain in the butt calibration. As long as the other one isn't too noisy or similar to the Koolance mechanical flow meters, I'm fine by that.


Nether have the issue you are talking about. The other flow meters have that "issue" (i am sure if there were that many issues they would stop selling them)

The ones toy ate talking about are the flow sensor MPS 400/200/and iirc 100

The ones you linked are the exact same but one has a MPS board (iirc) and other one is connected direct to the flow input on the Aquaero. The big plus is you don't take amps unit (you only can have 4) if you need it.

The one with USB input iirc has a temp sensor but it is notoriously inaccurate


----------



## GTXJackBauer

I just grabbed the first choice with the 3-pin flow meter cable for the AQ. I just like seeing it as a flow meter in the AQ hardware/software and not some RPM numbers like you would with a Koolance w/out the display.

Now I'm wondering on how to install it. If it needs distance or no angles near its ports like I've read on some of the other meters.


----------



## Mega Man

Doesn't matter. This one is mechanical. Doesn't need anything due to this. The other ones (the others I mentioned) use a pressure difference to determine flow due to the mechanical nature of this one. It does not have that issue

I have heard to minimize noise to install it face up (pins up)


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Its with a heavy heart I would like to inform everybody that Namron,the guy that did the man on the street guide to the Aquaero, has sadly passed away after an extensive fight with cancer.

Namron,I miss you already,love you man.


----------



## Newtocooling

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Its with a heavy heart I would like to inform everybody that Namron,the guy that did the man on the street guide to the Aquaero, has sadly passed away after an extensive fight with cancer.
> 
> Namron,I miss you already,love you man.


That's very sad news, his guide helped me a lot. He was a really nice guy!!


----------



## Barefooter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Its with a heavy heart I would like to inform everybody that Namron,the guy that did the man on the street guide to the Aquaero, has sadly passed away after an extensive fight with cancer.
> 
> Namron,I miss you already,love you man.


Very sad. His guide is still the best info on Aquaeros I have ever seen. RIP Namron.


----------



## Barefooter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GTXJackBauer*
> 
> I just grabbed the first choice with the 3-pin flow meter cable for the AQ. I just like seeing it as a flow meter in the AQ hardware/software and not some RPM numbers like you would with a Koolance w/out the display.
> 
> Now I'm wondering on how to install it. If it needs distance or no angles near its ports like I've read on some of the other meters.


The instructions state to have no 90 degree fittings directly on the flow meter and to have a straight length of tubing before and after the meter. I think it said 50 mm minimum before any bends for the most accurate readings.


----------



## GTXJackBauer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Barefooter*
> 
> The instructions state to have no 90 degree fittings directly on the flow meter and to have a straight length of tubing before and after the meter. I think it said 50 mm minimum before any bends for the most accurate readings.


Ok, thank you for that. Looks like I'll have to reroute my loop or position the meter else where from my existing location of my koolance meter. To make things easier, I could position it just after the pumps but I figured its best to have it right before it reenters the reservoir, the last part before returning to the pumps. Whats your take on this?


----------



## Barefooter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GTXJackBauer*
> 
> Ok, thank you for that. Looks like I'll have to reroute my loop or position the meter else where from my existing location of my koolance meter. To make things easier, I could position it just after the pumps but I figured its best to have it right before it reenters the reservoir, the last part before returning to the pumps. Whats your take on this?


If you have your choice of either location, I'd put it right before it goes into the reservoir. If you put it right after the pumps, it may pick up some turbulence.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Its with a heavy heart I would like to inform everybody that Namron,the guy that did the man on the street guide to the Aquaero, has sadly passed away after an extensive fight with cancer.
> 
> Namron,I miss you already,love you man.


First thanks so much for letting us know.

Second to your family nim my best wishes. I hope you are in a better place and far more peaceful life ahead...

Ironically I refused to pay that much for this controller. His guide (which b took me forever to find) is what convinced me to buy one and I Longed for it for a beer long time

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Barefooter*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *GTXJackBauer*
> 
> I just grabbed the first choice with the 3-pin flow meter cable for the AQ. I just like seeing it as a flow meter in the AQ hardware/software and not some RPM numbers like you would with a Koolance w/out the display.
> 
> Now I'm wondering on how to install it. If it needs distance or no angles near its ports like I've read on some of the other meters.
> 
> 
> 
> The instructions state to have no 90 degree fittings directly on the flow meter and to have a straight length of tubing before and after the meter. I think it said 50 mm minimum before any bends for the most accurate readings.
Click to expand...

AFAIK That is only the MPS version but I could be wrong I don't have time to check atm


----------



## DrFreeman35

Anyone with an SMA8 + Aquaero, what 5.25 bracket did you use in the flex bays? Have seen several, and not sure what would be best option. Not wanting to interfere with 3x120mm fans. Thanks


----------



## iCrap

My latest project... i CNCed a new aquero panel to combine it with my on/reset switches on my case.










Also, does anyone know if its possible to control and set outputs based on time? or easily with the IR remote? I REALLY want to set different lighting profiles depending on the time of day. Bright LED on during the day, the UV LED or dim white LED on at night. Can't figure out ANY way to do it with this thing.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iCrap*
> 
> My latest project... i CNCed a new aquero panel to combine it with my on/reset switches on my case.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also, does anyone know if its possible to control and set outputs based on time? or easily with the IR remote? I REALLY want to set different lighting profiles depending on the time of day. Bright LED on during the day, the UV LED or dim white LED on at night. Can't figure out ANY way to do it with this thing.


i hate you atm, i am starting to save up for a cnc, till i get one however i hate everyone with one !!!!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DrFreeman35*
> 
> Anyone with an SMA8 + Aquaero, what 5.25 bracket did you use in the flex bays? Have seen several, and not sure what would be best option. Not wanting to interfere with 3x120mm fans. Thanks


you should use the nonconformism bracket, will work no matter what, if you chose not to you can try the brackets that come with your case, then if they dont work buy a non conforming bracket


----------



## DrFreeman35

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> i hate you atm, i am starting to save up for a cnc, till i get one however i hate everyone with one !!!!
> you should use the nonconformism bracket, will work no matter what, if you chose not to you can try the brackets that come with your case, then if they dont work buy a non conforming bracket


Ok thanks, I'll check that out.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DrFreeman35*
> 
> Anyone with an SMA8 + Aquaero, what 5.25 bracket did you use in the flex bays? Have seen several, and not sure what would be best option. Not wanting to interfere with 3x120mm fans. Thanks


As Mega Man said, go with the Non-Conforming brackets.

These were made precisely to work with the Aquaeros. . . . which history has shown to generally be an overly tight fit in Caselabs cases

AquaComputer has told us they fixed the issue of the side brackets being too wide to fit properly in the Caselabs flex bays, but they also told us they fixed the front plastic bulging out and falling off . . . .

Some people have reported that regular brackets worked just fine for them, but most of us found the non-conforming brackets were the way to guarantee that you'd be able to mount your Aquaero properly with no hassles.

The slight extra expense for the guaranteed no-hassle fitment, is totally worth it. . . Just order the brackets with the case and be prepared

Darlene


----------



## DrFreeman35

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> As Mega Man said, go with the Non-Conforming brackets.
> 
> These were made precisely to work with the Aquaeros. . . . which history has shown to generally be an overly tight fit in Caselabs cases
> 
> AquaComputer has told us they fixed the issue of the side brackets being too wide to fit properly in the Caselabs flex bays, but they also told us they fixed the front plastic bulging out and falling off . . . .
> 
> Some people have reported that regular brackets worked just fine for them, but most of us found the non-conforming brackets were the way to guarantee that you'd be able to mount your Aquaero properly with no hassles.
> 
> The slight extra expense for the guaranteed no-hassle fitment, is totally worth it. . . Just order the brackets with the case and be prepared
> 
> Darlene


Ok thanks a bunch, and I will check those brackets out. Glad to have some input from people in the know.


----------



## rolldog

Ahhhh, now I see why I was having difficulty mounting my 2nd Aquaero in my case. I started this build so long ago, and I had to put it on the back burner for so long (my obsession to finish my build was conflicting with my work) I forgot that I used the non-conforming bracket to mount the first one. Actually, the Aquaero 6XT I received last week fits perfectly into the drive bay with the standard bracket. The coverplate and mounting assembly for the Poweradjusts/Farbwerks is still too short to fit into a drive bay. I need to find my extra spacers from the non-conforming bracket I used for the first one.

It's really sad when you've been working on a build for so long that you forget exactly what you used to mount some of your components. Hopefully I won't have any issues when leak testing like I did with faulty rads, or maybe I made them faulty, which made me tear everything apart that I had been working on for months and start all over again. Maybe I just like working on it, changing things around all the time, and it'll never be finished?







Hope not, I'm ready to see how my new i7-6950X performs.


----------



## rolldog

By the way, I just got my Aqua Computer Hubby and Splitty from Joe at Modmymods.com, and these things are very well made. They both help extremely well with cable management. Instead of mounting the Hubby on the MB and having 6 or 7 USB cables running across my case, I think I'm going to mount it close to the Aquaero, on the opposite side of my chassis divider. I was also able to fit 4 or 5 USB cables through some SATA sleeving, which also keeps everything looking cleaner than having a rat's nest sitting behind my Aquaero and Poweradjusts. The Splitty is great too. It can be used as a fan splitter, for 9 fans, or you can move a jumper on it and use it as an Aquabus splitter, which both 3 & 4 pin Aquabus devices can plug into at the same time.

I wasn't sure how long it was going to take for these to come in so I've made some extremely short sleeved Aquabus cables to daisy chain from one device to another, so I'm not sur how I'm going to use it yet. Both pieces are set on a piece of black acrylic, which can either be mounted anywhere in your case with screws or you can use the double stick velcro that comes with them. Both of them look extremely well made. NZXT should be worried because they're about to lose a lot of business, but in reality, losing marketshare on a $10-$15 component won't be a deal breaker. I just wanted to say how pleased I am with these things, and I haven't even hooked them up yet.


----------



## iCrap

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> i hate you atm, i am starting to save up for a cnc, till i get one however i hate everyone with one !!!!
> you should use the nonconformism bracket, will work no matter what, if you chose not to you can try the brackets that come with your case, then if they dont work buy a non conforming bracket


lol, yeah it's an awesome tool to have. I can make so many custom parts now.


----------



## DerComissar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rolldog*
> 
> By the way, I just got my Aqua Computer Hubby and Splitty from Joe at Modmymods.com, and these things are very well made. They both help extremely well with cable management. Instead of mounting the Hubby on the MB and having 6 or 7 USB cables running across my case, I think I'm going to mount it close to the Aquaero, on the opposite side of my chassis divider. I was also able to fit 4 or 5 USB cables through some SATA sleeving, which also keeps everything looking cleaner than having a rat's nest sitting behind my Aquaero and Poweradjusts. The Splitty is great too. It can be used as a fan splitter, for 9 fans, or you can move a jumper on it and use it as an Aquabus splitter, which both 3 & 4 pin Aquabus devices can plug into at the same time.
> 
> I wasn't sure how long it was going to take for these to come in so I've made some extremely short sleeved Aquabus cables to daisy chain from one device to another, so I'm not sur how I'm going to use it yet. Both pieces are set on a piece of black acrylic, which can either be mounted anywhere in your case with screws or you can use the double stick velcro that comes with them. Both of them look extremely well made. NZXT should be worried because they're about to lose a lot of business, but in reality, losing marketshare on a $10-$15 component won't be a deal breaker. I just wanted to say how pleased I am with these things, and I haven't even hooked them up yet.


Glad to hear that, I have one of each incoming.

Thanks for the suggestions as well, not completely sure how I'll utilize mine with the AQ6 yet.
That's a good idea, not mounting the Hubby onto the motherboard, but installing it close to the AQ6 instead.
Rep+









Can the Splitty 9 take more than one fan per connection if they're daisy-chained together with 3-pin splitter cables?
Specifically, I'm looking at connecting 16 older Scythe GT's (AP-15, non-pwm) if I go push-pull on my rads, through the Splitty 9 to the AQ6.
That would be for two 360's, and one 240 rad.

I was just going to daisy-chain them directly to the AQ6, using all of the fan ports, but decided to see if a Splitty 9 would be a more practical way to connect them.


----------



## GTXJackBauer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DerComissar*
> 
> Glad to hear that, I have one of each incoming.
> 
> Thanks for the suggestions as well, not completely sure how I'll utilize mine with the AQ6 yet.
> That's a good idea, not mounting the Hubby onto the motherboard, but installing it close to the AQ6 instead.
> Rep+
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Can the Splitty 9 take more than one fan per connection if they're daisy-chained together with 3-pin splitter cables?
> Specifically, I'm looking at connecting 16 older Scythe GT's (AP-15, non-pwm) if I go push-pull on my rads, through the Splitty 9 to the AQ6.
> That would be for two 360's, and one 240 rad.
> 
> I was just going to daisy-chain them directly to the AQ6, using all of the fan ports, but decided to see if a Splitty 9 would be a more practical way to connect them.


I also ordered one of those and the USB counterpart.

The SPLITTY9 splitter can handle a max of 5 Amps. Each channel on the AQ6 can handle a max of 2.5 Amps which equates to the 30w per channel. So just make sure you're with in spec.


----------



## DerComissar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GTXJackBauer*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *DerComissar*
> 
> Glad to hear that, I have one of each incoming.
> 
> Thanks for the suggestions as well, not completely sure how I'll utilize mine with the AQ6 yet.
> That's a good idea, not mounting the Hubby onto the motherboard, but installing it close to the AQ6 instead.
> Rep+
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Can the Splitty 9 take more than one fan per connection if they're daisy-chained together with 3-pin splitter cables?
> Specifically, I'm looking at connecting 16 older Scythe GT's (AP-15, non-pwm) if I go push-pull on my rads, through the Splitty 9 to the AQ6.
> That would be for two 360's, and one 240 rad.
> 
> I was just going to daisy-chain them directly to the AQ6, using all of the fan ports, but decided to see if a Splitty 9 would be a more practical way to connect them.
> 
> 
> 
> I also ordered one of those and the USB counterpart.
> 
> The SPLITTY9 splitter can handle a max of 5 Amps. Each channel on the AQ6 can handle a max of 2.5 Amps which equates to the 30w per channel. So just make sure you're with in spec.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the reply Jack.
Rep+









I just found the pdf files for the manuals on the splitty and hubby, and saw the 5 Amp limit on the splitty 9 channels as well.
The manuals are on their support page, I couldn't find an english support page, but the english manuals are there, after scrolling well down the page.
http://www.aquacomputer.de/handbuecher.html


----------



## GTXJackBauer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DerComissar*
> 
> Thanks for the reply Jack.
> Rep+
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I just found the pdf files for the manuals on the splitty and hubby, and saw the 5 Amp limit on the splitty 9 channels as well.
> The manuals are on their support page, I couldn't find an english support page, but the english manuals are there, after scrolling well down the page.
> http://www.aquacomputer.de/handbuecher.html


No problem.









Its posted on their product page as well. Just make sure to switch it to english on the top right corner of the site.


----------



## InfoSeeker

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iCrap*
> 
> lol, yeah it's an awesome tool to have. I can make so many custom parts now.


Handheld CNC router, only $1,500.00 on pre-order.


----------



## Mega Man

There are far better ones for cheaper


----------



## InfoSeeker

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> There are far better ones for cheaper


Well be a sweetie and link to one that you prefer.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *InfoSeeker*
> 
> Well be a sweetie and link to one that you prefer.


Shapeoko 3 for a start....

Those handheld concept tools cant cut alu either.


----------



## iCrap

Shapeoko 3 Is the one i have^

Very happy with it.


----------



## rolldog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GTXJackBauer*
> 
> I also ordered one of those and the USB counterpart.
> 
> The SPLITTY9 splitter can handle a max of 5 Amps. Each channel on the AQ6 can handle a max of 2.5 Amps which equates to the 30w per channel. So just make sure you're with in spec.


Since you're using 3 pin fans, If you use a Poweradjust Ultra with a heatsink installed, it's supposed to be able to handle 35 watts, I think. I'm sure someone here will correct me if I'm wrong.

Just installed my Hubby, and I used up all 7 USB ports, and that's only from the Aquacomputer stuff.


----------



## GTXJackBauer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rolldog*
> 
> Since you're using 3 pin fans, If you use a Poweradjust Ultra with a heatsink installed, it's supposed to be able to handle 35 watts, I think. I'm sure someone here will correct me if I'm wrong.
> 
> Just installed my Hubby, and I used up all 7 USB ports, and that's only from the Aquacomputer stuff.


I technically didn't need either splitter but since I have the old version of the NZXT which I hear can become catastrophic and might reconfigure my PWM fans while knowing the fact that the splitter's build quality will be solid, I said hell why not.

Will be transitioning from distilled water and kill coil to premade AC clear fluids since I'm sick of the oxidization of my CPU blocks and because I will be doing this, I will be rerouting and upgrading a few things during that time frame.


----------



## Mega Man

What do you mean catastrophic?


----------



## GTXJackBauer

Not sure if I read this here or in another forums that version 1.1 can fry some peoples components versus their newer 2.0 revision which fixes any issues that might arise.


----------



## Mega Man

I call shenanigans. (Not your fault) these have been used for a long time without issue


----------



## GTXJackBauer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> I call shenanigans. (Not your fault) these have been used for a long time without issue


I'm still using version 1.1 and prior to having a blowout almost 2 years ago but suspected it had to do with the old firmware PSU I was using at the time.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *InfoSeeker*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> There are far better ones for cheaper
> 
> 
> 
> Well be a sweetie and link to one that you prefer.
Click to expand...

as mentioned shapeoko 3 and the xcarve come to mind first


----------



## AllGamer

Question for you guys.

I'm planning to pick up a *Aquacomputer Flow Rate Sensor MPS Flow 100*
but I wanted to confirm a few things.

I only need to measure flow and temperature, I don't need the fancy feature of the Aquacomputer 6
*This unit can work stand alone without the need for an Aquacomputer 6 right?*

Also this model comes in 100, 200, and 400
I'm not really sure which of the 3 flow options to choose from.

*Does anyone know how to find out which model will suit my needs better?*

5x 360mm EK radiators
1x 240mm EK radiator
2x EK D5 pumps
2x reservoir (in / out)
2x Aquacomputer Flow Rate Sensor MPS Flow 100 / 200 / 400 (one to measure in, one to measure out)

cooling:
- SLI GTX1080
- CPU
- VRM

not sure if any of that matter on the flow 100 / 200 / 400 selection.

in the description it says:
mps flow 100: Measuring range approx. 20 - 100 liters per hour
mps flow 200: Measuring range approx. 40 - 200 liters per hour
mps flow 400: Measuring range approx. 80 - 400 liters per hour

Does that mean the speed of the pump? and how much water it can pump per hour?

According to EK their D5 pumps
- Maximum flow: 1500L/h

but I'm not going to be using it at Max, maybe 50% so that's aprox 750 L/h

Does that mean I need the Flow 400 model?


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AllGamer*
> 
> Question for you guys.
> 
> I'm planning to pick up a *Aquacomputer Flow Rate Sensor MPS Flow 100*
> but I wanted to confirm a few things.
> 
> I only need to measure flow and temperature, I don't need the fancy feature of the Aquacomputer 6
> *This unit can work stand alone without the need for an Aquacomputer 6 right?*
> 
> Also this model comes in 100, 200, and 400
> I'm not really sure which of the 3 flow options to choose from.
> 
> *Does anyone know how to find out which model will suit my needs better?*
> 
> 5x 360mm EK radiators
> 1x 240mm EK radiator
> 2x pumps
> 2x reservoir (in / out)
> 2x Aquacomputer Flow Rate Sensor MPS Flow 100 / 200 / 400 (one to measure in, one to measure out)
> 
> cooling:
> - SLI GTX1080
> - CPU
> - VRM
> 
> not sure if any of that matter on the flow 100 / 200 / 400 selection.
> 
> Thanks


the easiest would be Aquacomputer Flow Rate Sensor "High Flow USB" you dont have to calibrate it and you can use it as a stand alone device!!


----------



## AllGamer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> the easiest would be Aquacomputer Flow Rate Sensor "High Flow USB" you dont have to calibrate it and you can use it as a stand alone device!!


Thanks I'll check that out

--- EDIT ---

Awesome found it!

That's exactly what I needed



Compatibility list external temperatue sensor input:
Temperature sensor inline G1/4 (art. 53066)
Temperature sensor inner/outer thread G1/4 (art. 53067)
Temperature sensor G1/4 (art. 53147)
Temperature sensor plug&cool (art. 53025)
Temperature sensor 70 cm (art. 53026)

Scope of delivery:
One flow sensor
One internal USB cable
One aquabus/rpm signal cable (3 pins)

Technical details:
Dimensions without fittings and without cables: approx. 53 x 50 x 43 mm
Connection threads G 1/4, fittings not included!
Mounting threads: 4x M3, rectangularly arranged at intervals 35 x 44 mm

and the most important part... The aquasuite software charts !


----------



## Costas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AllGamer*
> 
> *This unit can work stand alone without the need for an Aquacomputer 6 right?*


Yes - You can simply use the Aquasuite software to configure and monitor the flowmeter.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AllGamer*
> 
> Also this model comes in 100, 200, and 400
> I'm not really sure which of the 3 flow options to choose from.


You will want either the MPS400 or possibly the MPS200. The MPS100 can only measure fairly low flow rates.

The litres per hour measurement is your flow rate. Typically, small loops with a strong pump can exceed 300 to 400 litres per hour at max flow rates - So the MPS400 is usually chosen for many builds.

Most builds will aim for around 1GPM to 1.5 GPM as an ideal figure for flow rate. This equates to around 227 to 350 Litres per hour of flow.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AllGamer*
> 
> 2x Aquacomputer Flow Rate Sensor MPS Flow 100 / 200 / 400 (one to measure in, one to measure out)


Is this a dual loop system? If it is a single loop then only ONE flowmeter is required as the flow is the same anywhere within the loop.

** Just be aware that the mechanical Hi-Flow USB flow meter pictured in your post above can sometimes generate 'ticking' sounds at moderate to high flow rates which can be annoying to some - especially if you are aiming for a quiet build.

Here is a great thread to refer to in regards to flow meters... http://www.overclock.net/t/1501978/ocn-community-water-cooling-test-thread


----------



## AllGamer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Costas*
> 
> Is this a dual loop system? If it is a single loop then only ONE flowmeter is required as the flow is the same anywhere within the loop.


Yes, it's designed as a dual loop, but I'm making a manual valve option to interchange it between Dual to Single, depending how I flip the valve









So, 2 flow meter to monitor the separate reservoirs output, when it's working separately, and when working as a single loop, it'll become 1 in, and 1 out (mainly to measure the temp difference before and after going through the Radiators)


----------



## AllGamer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Costas*
> 
> ** Just be aware that the mechanical Hi-Flow USB flow meter pictured in your post above can sometimes generate 'ticking' sounds at moderate to high flow rates which can be annoying to some - especially if you are aiming for a quiet build.
> 
> Here is a great thread to refer to in regards to flow meters... http://www.overclock.net/t/1501978/ocn-community-water-cooling-test-thread


darn it!... yes I do aim for a quiet rig, that's why I got water instead of air.

I hope it's not too loud, if it's louder than the fans, then it should be fine.

I consider quiet anything quieter than 1800 rpm fans.

So if the ticking sound is not too louder than a 1800 rpm fan then it should be "ok" to me

I'll also have the flow sensors hidden inside the S8 pedestal among the 12 fans running push/pull in there... that should probably dampen whatever ticking sound it produces.


----------



## Costas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AllGamer*
> 
> Yes, it's designed as a dual loop, but I'm making a manual valve option to interchange it between Dual to Single, depending how I flip the valve
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So, 2 flow meter to monitor the separate reservoirs output, when it's working separately, and when working as a single loop, it'll become 1 in, and 1 out (mainly to measure the temp difference before and after going through the Radiators)


Ah OK - But what is the point of switching from single <> dual loop config?

I would either run a full single or a dual loop without requiring more complex switching valves and extra plumbing etc

Also you will find that the temp difference in and out of the rads will be minimal and not worth monitoring.

I use one of those mechanical Aquacomputer flowmeters (non USB) in one of my builds and its fairly quiet @ around 200 litres per hour but up around 300+ it gets fairly noisy.

Here is a youtube vid of someone trying to make it quiet...


----------



## AllGamer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Costas*
> 
> Ah OK - But what is the point of switching from single <> dual loop config?
> 
> I would either run a full single or a dual loop without requiring more complex switching valves and extra plumbing etc
> 
> Also you will find that the temp difference in and out of the rads will be minimal and not worth monitoring.


I know I know... I've read a lot about this from people that have been running water loops for a long time.

It's my first custom water loop, so I'm still curious








it's all part of the learning process, to try out everything.


----------



## zerophase

Has there been any word of an Aquaero 7 coming? I might be adding my graphics cards to a loop soon, and would like to keep them on a separate loop. Ideally, I'd just be able to plug those pumps in to the Aquaero, but I'm out of PWM headers already. (Want them on a separate channel than the main loop's pumps)


----------



## DerComissar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AllGamer*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Costas*
> 
> Ah OK - But what is the point of switching from single <> dual loop config?
> 
> I would either run a full single or a dual loop without requiring more complex switching valves and extra plumbing etc
> 
> Also you will find that the temp difference in and out of the rads will be minimal and not worth monitoring.
> 
> 
> 
> I know I know... I've read a lot about this from people that have been running water loops for a long time.
> 
> It's my first custom water loop, so I'm still curious
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> it's all part of the learning process, to try out everything.
Click to expand...

Yeah, whether people agree or not, I admire what you're planning on doing.

Crazy things, like the upside-down case, and overkill (there really is no overkill here, lol) rad space.
Enjoying seeing what you have planned, and how it will work out.

Imo seross69 had a good suggestion with the High Flow USB Flowmeter.


----------



## Master Chicken

I have a pretty odd Aquaero 6 question ... I'm going to give it a shot though in the hope that someone will have looked at these values.

As far as I know, the four FAN ports on the AQ6 can be set to operate in either voltage control or PWM control mode. However, it looks to me like the AQ6 is using a TI dual buck regulator to drive the 12V on these fan ports. So two regulators and four inductors can provide the four fan ports with voltage control. However, these TI regulators have a maximum duty cycle of 90% and no bypass function. That leads me to believe that the 12V power pin on these fan headers can reach only 10.2V even if commanded to 100%.

So my question is this: in PWM mode, is there a series pass transistor that is engaged to provide "close" to 12V to the power pins on these ports OR is the buck regulator just commanded to max output (10.2V) and that's what you get even in PWM mode on these ports?

I'm asking because I've designed a device that will work with PWM or Voltage control fan headers ... whichever you happen to have. But when taking commands from a PWM fan header, it expects the power pin on the fan connection to be nearly 12V. Not providing a voltage "near" 12V causes it to look like you're trying to do both voltage and PWM control at the same time and it ends up narrowing the achievable control window.

Does anyone know if the 12V line on their fan headers (in PWM mode) is actually at or near 12V or is it closer to 10.2V?

Granted, there could be some resistive drop across your Molex connection to the AQ6 and so it may be 11.8V or 11.6V but that drop is unlikely to land you all of the way down at 10.2V.


----------



## Mega Man

There is minor drop but much less then 10v

It is like 11.8 or 11.9 ish on average


----------



## GTXJackBauer




----------



## Master Chicken

Thanks. I should have typed 10.8V and not 10.2V in my post ... brain lock I suppose. That's great to see that he is achieving a bypass to the regulator for 100% or he's using a regulator that allows a duty cycle well past the 90% that I had assumed. That will work perfectly well with my controller.

I plan on getting an AQ6 for my build at some point. I wanted to finish this pump driver first. I did get my CaseLabs S8 in finally.


----------



## DerComissar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Master Chicken*
> 
> Thanks. I should have typed 10.8V and not 10.2V in my post ... brain lock I suppose. That's great to see that he is achieving a bypass to the regulator for 100% or he's using a regulator that allows a duty cycle well past the 90% that I had assumed. That will work perfectly well with my controller.
> *
> I plan on getting an AQ6 for my build at some point.* I wanted to finish this pump driver first. *I did get my CaseLabs S8 in finally*.


Yeah, and Yeah!


----------



## Trestles126

Any threads on how to mount a aquaero 6 to a panel. Working on mounting my 6 to the front of a Caselabs bullet. Would like to use the faceplate. I'm trying to make it work by taking the brackets out from behind plastic touch screen but the thickness isn't gonna work out


----------



## zumppjr96

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> The D5 takes about 2A, so it's also too much of a load for the A5 on a 3 pin channel.
> 
> You could use the Aquabus port and a Power Adjust 3 for it though instead.
> 
> The varders will be OK on the single PWM channel if you use a powered splitter as you envision.
> 
> The new one from AC looks quite nice.


As per your post and help, I've made the purchase of the Splitty9 along with a Phobya 4pin PWM to 4pin PWM & 4pin molex (in description was mentioned that these are used specifically for splitters).

I have 6 EKWB Vardar F3-140s in my SM8. The front has 3 fans connected with a Phobya 3x 4pin PWM to 1x 4pin PWM splitter and are plugged into the "RPM" of the Splitty9. The top 3 will use the same splitter to connect to a different fan port on the Splitty9. Keeping in mind that I am using an Aquaero 5LT, the Splitty9 is connecting to the only available 4pin PWM port. With that being said, I plan to run the front and top fans at the same RPMs. Will chaining a splitter to the Splitty9 and then to the Aquaero cause any issues? (The reason to which I am powering the Splitty9 is to put as little stress on the Aquaero as possible)

I don't feel 100% confident that I have this down correctly, more like 50/50. Any guidance to correct me if I am completely off base here would be appreciated.

I have attached a picture of the rear of my Caselabs SM8 as an example to how I have it wired currently.


----------



## fyrehawse

hi,
building my first wc oc

Would like to get the Aquaero gear but just need help choosing what is needed

Aquaero to control & monitor:

4 pumps = rpm and temp display

2 flow rates (2 loops)

2 res level indicators

at least 12 fans for 3 rads = rpm of each fan, can it be expanded to unlimited fans ????

16 led strips = LED control via temp readings for each

a few temp probes here & there

don't need touchscreen or LCD screen

Do i really need the 6xt for this ? I like the 6xt as it is newer & improved but is it really needed for maximum customization

I'm reading the manual at the moment

cheers

ps would like the multiswitch USB (article no. 53050/53051, discontinued)

will it work with the latest software, if not what alternatives are there for external device/relay control


----------



## figgie

Hi Folks,

long time lurker and never posted a picture.. now I have pic

this current build is going through a refresh.



Aq6 controlling 8 thermaltake Riin 12 and 4 Thermaltake riing 14.

but I want moar powah!!

Delta fans, how much power can EACH fan channel of the AQ6 handle?


----------



## AllGamer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *figgie*
> 
> Hi Folks,
> 
> long time lurker and never posted a picture.. now I have pic
> 
> this current build is going through a refresh.
> 
> 
> 
> Aq6 controlling 8 thermaltake Riin 12 and 4 Thermaltake riing 14.
> 
> but I want moar powah!!
> 
> Delta fans, how much power can EACH fan channel of the AQ6 handle?










ohhh! nice to see those fans in action









as I'll be using the same ones, but I was surprised you used Aquero to control them
these Riing fans have build in USB connections that you can control from the TT software.


----------



## Mega Man

@fyrehawse
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fyrehawse*
> 
> hi,
> building my first wc oc
> 
> Would like to get the Aquaero gear but just need help choosing what is needed
> 
> Aquaero to control & monitor:
> 
> 4 pumps = rpm and temp display
> 
> 2 flow rates (2 loops)
> 
> 2 res level indicators
> 
> at least 12 fans for 3 rads = rpm of each fan, can it be expanded to unlimited fans ????
> 
> 16 led strips = LED control via temp readings for each
> 
> a few temp probes here & there
> 
> don't need touchscreen or LCD screen
> 
> Do i really need the 6xt for this ? I like the 6xt as it is newer & improved but is it really needed for maximum customization
> 
> I'm reading the manual at the moment
> 
> cheers
> 
> ps would like the multiswitch USB (article no. 53050/53051, discontinued)
> 
> will it work with the latest software, if not what alternatives are there for external device/relay control


1 multiswitch is Eol and you would generally be hard pressed to find it. No it is not compatable.

2 you can NOT monitor EACH fan rpm. You can monitor up to 4 on the aquaero.

3 res level indicators are also Eol and won't work

they make a MPS sensor that can. bit you can only have 4 MPS sensors and the pumps count as MPS things

led strips you would need a farbwerk . and only 4 channels


----------



## fyrehawse

how can extra fans be monitored

can the 5LT be used to monitor additional fans ?

MPS sensor is 4

so is it possible to add more MPS sensors ?

will the software read every added device ?


----------



## Mega Man

You can monitor an additional 8 fans (total of 12) but it would be expensive and Unneeded to do that.

Yea you can use an lt and 4 power adj to monitor everything.
Max MPS devices is 4 (on aquabus) but you can add more and use just as usb.

The ones used as usb however would not be able to communicate with the other things


----------



## DONGOTTI

Question, maybe I'm doing this wrong but I'm using AQ 6xt and trying to set up pump and fans via USB to be then controlled by aquabus.

So, as it is right now I can control either pump and not fans or fans and not pump. When the usb is plugged in I can control that particular device but not the other. The priority connection is set to aquabus. Pump and fans both work individually but not together. Is there an internal usb splitter I need to use?

Right now I have aquaero hooked to usb and pump via aquabus


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DONGOTTI*
> 
> Question, maybe I'm doing this wrong but I'm using AQ 6xt and trying to set up pump and fans via USB to be then controlled by aquabus.
> 
> So, as it is right now I can control either pump and not fans or fans and not pump. When the usb is plugged in I can control that particular device but not the other. The priority connection is set to aquabus. Pump and fans both work individually but not together. Is there an internal usb splitter I need to use?
> 
> Right now I have aquaero hooked to usb and pump via aquabus


It is difficult to understand what you are saying or what problem you are referring to. Connection via USB or Aquabus have nothing to do with the control you have over the pump or fans. In fact you can control the 4 fan header channels in the aquaero independent of any connection to the PC via USB or Aquabus using the front buttons on the Aquaero. Which pump it is? Which fans? Are they PWM or Volt regulated? Are you setting the pump in one fan channel and the fans in the other 3 fan channels? give us details or we won't be able to help you.


----------



## figgie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AllGamer*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ohhh! nice to see those fans in action
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> as I'll be using the same ones, but I was surprised you used Aquero to control them
> these Riing fans have build in USB connections that you can control from the TT software.


Well allgamer, these are the original Riing12 fans and not rev2 (ie the TT riing fans), with that said, the fans are still pwm so they still can be rpm controlled. 700-1400rpm


----------



## Captaincaveman

How do I get all the temps I want in aqua suite?
With an 8 core cpu and 2 gpus I'm short 2 software sensors.
Why is there even a limit on software sensors?


----------



## AllGamer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Captaincaveman*
> 
> How do I get all the temps I want in aqua suite?
> With an 8 core cpu and 2 gpus I'm short 2 software sensors.
> Why is there even a limit on software sensors?


As I recall the Aquaero Aquacomputer can be expanded to have additional temp sensors using any of the additional add-ons like the Aquacomputer Flow Rate Sensor "High Flow USB" which has plugs for you to attach additional temp sensors.

or you can even expand to an extra Aquacomputer, or just the small sensor attachments like the Aquacomputer Poweradjust 3 USB - Standard- or Aquacomputer Poweradjust 3 USB - Ultra-

there are many more options to choose from.


----------



## wa3pnt

He is talking about SOFTWARE Sensors. Not Hardware Sensors.

I remember reading that the Aquaero 6 Hardware is the limitation. Available memory, etc.

RodeoGeorge


----------



## InfoSeeker

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Captaincaveman*
> 
> How do I get all the temps I want in aqua suite?
> With an 8 core cpu and 2 gpus I'm short 2 software sensors.
> Why is there even a limit on software sensors?


The aquasuite can display all the temp sensors HWiNFO or AIDA64 pick up.

If you want to use them for speed control, just use the CPU main temp value... no need to work with the individual cores.
Though the best controlling temperature to use is the coolant/Ambient-air delta (a virtual temperature).


----------



## rolldog

Ok, I've finally finished up my build, and I'm ready to start leak testing. Hopefully, these rads are ok so I don't have to take everything apart and start over.

I have one question though. Both of my pumps are each hooked up to Poweradjust Ultras. When I start leak testing, can I run power to the Poweradjusts to get the pumps running or do I need to unplug them from the Poweradjusts and just hook them straight up to a MOLEX connector?


----------



## InfoSeeker

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rolldog*
> 
> Ok, I've finally finished up my build, and I'm ready to start leak testing. Hopefully, these rads are ok so I don't have to take everything apart and start over.
> 
> I have one question though. Both of my pumps are each hooked up to Poweradjust Ultras. When I start leak testing, can I run power to the Poweradjusts to get the pumps running or do I need to unplug them from the Poweradjusts and just hook them straight up to a MOLEX connector?


Maybe to try the aquacomputer Dr. Drop pressure tester incl. air pump. No mess, no pumps, no worries.


----------



## rolldog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *InfoSeeker*
> 
> Maybe to try the aquacomputer Dr. Drop pressure tester incl. air pump. No mess, no pumps, no worries.


What the hell is that? I've never seen such a thing. How exactly does this thing work? I assume that it hooks into my loop somewhere and pumps air into the loop up to a certain pressure, but how can you tell if there's a leak somewhere in the loop that might be dripping, like if an o-ring is worn out or if a fitting isn't on all the way? Does this thing work with Bitspower Multi-link mini C48 hard line fittings?

Has anyone used one of these pressure testers before instead of just running water for 24 hours? If so, how exactly does it work, and does it work on any kind of waterloop with any type of fitting, like pressure release valves, flow meters, etc?


----------



## GTXJackBauer

I'd like to see a video of someone configuring it as well. I get the idea that you pressurize the loop and you plug the other end of it. My worry would be if I pressurize it too much and end up blowing a seal somewhere where as the loop wouldn't have pushed it that far. Not sure what the limit of pressurization would be but yes, any loss in pressure or rapid would be a indicator of a leak. That's probably one of the quickest ways of finding out before you pour the liquid in the loop but I'd still do a leak test for my conscious.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rolldog*
> 
> What the hell is that? I've never seen such a thing. How exactly does this thing work? I assume that it hooks into my loop somewhere and pumps air into the loop up to a certain pressure, but how can you tell if there's a leak somewhere in the loop that might be dripping, like if an o-ring is worn out or if a fitting isn't on all the way? Does this thing work with Bitspower Multi-link mini C48 hard line fittings?
> 
> Has anyone used one of these pressure testers before instead of just running water for 24 hours? If so, how exactly does it work, and does it work on any kind of waterloop with any type of fitting, like pressure release valves, flow meters, etc?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GTXJackBauer*
> 
> I'd like to see a video of someone configuring it as well. I get the idea that you pressurize the loop and you plug the other end of it. My worry would be if I pressurize it too much and end up blowing a seal somewhere where as the loop wouldn't have pushed it that far. Not sure what the limit of pressurization would be but yes, any loss in pressure or rapid would be a indicator of a leak. That's probably one of the quickest ways of finding out before you pour the liquid in the loop but I'd still do a leak test for my conscious.


http://www.overclock.net/t/1534282/how-to-correctly-leak-test-your-loop-101

It Diva also made a post a long time ago about it and it is actually common practice among plumbers to check for leaks on gas and liquid pipes. Most of our gear in WC are good to about 14 psi (1 bar). Usually we test with about 10-12 psi. If the pressure does not drop over a time period you are golden. You can even test in sections of the loop doing it piecemeal so you can pinpoint easier to the leak. Another trick is the soap on the fittings external to check for bubbles. Usually any major leak appear quite easily either by not holding any pressure on the loop (when you forgot to seal the extra port in the reservoir for example - not that I have done that before mind you







) or with a sharp drop in pressure.


----------



## rolldog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GTXJackBauer*
> 
> I'd like to see a video of someone configuring it as well. I get the idea that you pressurize the loop and you plug the other end of it. My worry would be if I pressurize it too much and end up blowing a seal somewhere where as the loop wouldn't have pushed it that far. Not sure what the limit of pressurization would be but yes, any loss in pressure or rapid would be a indicator of a leak. That's probably one of the quickest ways of finding out before you pour the liquid in the loop but I'd still do a leak test for my conscious.


Yes, knowing that you have a leak is a lot different than knowing that you have a leak and knowing where it is. If you fill you loops with water and leak test your loop the "old fashioned" way, at least you know where the leak is so you can fix it. If the pressure value shows a leak somewhere, do you then have to fill it up with water to find out where the leak is or would the leak wistle with air coming out of it?









Sorry Gabrielzm, I guess we posted at the same time, well, actually you posted a little bit ahead of me. I just don't know if it's worth the additional cost and waiting for it to come in vs going to buy some distilled water right now. I can understand if I'm running natural gas lines and just tied into the line somewhere, since you only have one connection to test.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rolldog*
> 
> Yes, knowing that you have a leak is a lot different than knowing that you have a leak and knowing where it is. If you fill you loops with water and leak test your loop the "old fashioned" way, at least you know where the leak is so you can fix it. If the pressure value shows a leak somewhere, do you then have to fill it up with water to find out where the leak is or would the leak wistle with air coming out of it?


Explained above. You can hear the leak easily if is a major one at 1 bar. If very small you can find using the bubble method.

a good example of what you need:

Don't known why the link does not work. But search for "PETG Series 2 in. Gas Test Pressure Gauge with Test Valve Adapts to 3/4 in. FNPT and Range of 0-30 psi/kPa" in google and you will find this (about 10 bucks):


----------



## InfoSeeker

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rolldog*
> 
> Yes, knowing that you have a leak is a lot different than knowing that you have a leak and knowing where it is. If you fill you loops with water and leak test your loop the "old fashioned" way, at least you know where the leak is so you can fix it. If the pressure value shows a leak somewhere, do you then have to fill it up with water to find out where the leak is or would the leak wistle with air coming out of it?


No rocket science here









From the manual:

Instruction manual Dr. Drop
Before initial operation, install a fitting compatible to your hose system
into the pressure tester.
Test procedure
1. Connect the pressure tester Dr. Drop to the component to be tested.
Either single components or complete cooling systems can be
tested. It is advisable to drain all components before testing.
2. Attach an air pump to the valve connector of the pressure tester.
3. Generate approx. 0.55 bar of pressure using the air pump. Use
the discharge valve to adjust the pressure to exactly 0.5 bar.
Slightly tap a finger against the manometer to increase accuracy.
4. Remove the air pump from the pressure tester!
5. Waiting period: Wait for at least 15 minutes when testing single
components or at least one hour when testing cooling systems before
checking the results!
6. Slightly tap a finger against the manometer and check the pressure
reading on the manometer. There must not be any change of pressure,
the manometer must still read exactly 0.5 bar!
7. Release the air using the discharge valve.
Leak hunting
Leak hunting can be made easier by applying a pressure of 0.5 bar to
the component or system as described before. When coated with a layer
of water or soap solution, bubbles can be noticed in leaking areas.
Notice: A maximum pressure of 0.6 bar (full scale of manometer) must
never be exceeded!


----------



## roamin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Don't known why the link does not work. But search for "PETG Series 2 in. Gas Test Pressure Gauge with Test Valve Adapts to 3/4 in. FNPT and Range of 0-30 psi/kPa" in google and you will find this (about 10 bucks):


here is the link you were chasing


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *roamin*
> 
> here is the link you were chasing


got the same null page following the link. I have posted the link before but when you click on it I a got a blank page just like before...


----------



## roamin

seems to load for me


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *roamin*
> 
> seems to load for me


maybe a country thing. I can't access aquatuning from other countries. In any case, good is working


----------



## roamin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> maybe a country thing. I can't access aquatuning from other countries. In any case, good is working


interesting as im from australia, we dont even have homedepot lol


----------



## GTXJackBauer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *roamin*
> 
> interesting as im from australia, we dont even have homedepot lol


Time to move to the US.


----------



## roamin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GTXJackBauer*
> 
> Time to move to the US.


I would love too. Everything is available there off the shelf. We buy all our watercooling gear from the states. You have all the big shows like blizcon. Pax and so on. Parts are cheaper in the states for pc's too.


----------



## DrFreeman35

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *roamin*
> 
> I would love too. Everything is available there off the shelf. We buy all our watercooling gear from the states. You have all the big shows like blizcon. Pax and so on. Parts are cheaper in the states for pc's too.[/quote
> 
> If that's your only reason for moving.... Stay put. I would gladly pay the extra $ to not deal with American problems. I'll leave it at that...


----------



## VSG

FYI, there's a bug making the Aquaero 6 incompatible fully with some (maybe all) 6-pole motor fans including the new be quiet! Silent Wings 3. The fan speed drops like a rock going from 100% PWM to 99% PWM even. be quiet! is working with Aquacomputer on this, and it seems older Aquaeros are fine.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> FYI, there's a bug making the Aquaero 6 incompatible fully with some (maybe all) 6-pole motor fans including the new be quiet! Silent Wings 3. The fan speed drops like a rock going from 100% PWM to 99% PWM even. be quiet! is working with Aquacomputer on this, and it seems older Aquaeros are fine.


Have you tried the 6 polers with the Diva Dapter?


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Have you tried the 6 polers with the Diva Dapter?


Not yet, I had some Cooler Master MasterFan Pro 120 Air Pressure and MasterFan Pro 120 Air Balance fans to test (yes, that's their real name) first









This only just got found out so I will try it out tomorrow. DC control is fine, PWM control is the issue.


----------



## Mega Man

Mine works ok (talking about the link)

What makes 6 pole fans so unique?

This is something I don't fully understand but isn't a motor a motor?

Seems like (to me) it may be they didn't follow Intel spec


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> Mine works ok (talking about the link)
> 
> What makes 6 pole fans so unique?
> 
> This is something I don't fully understand but isn't a motor a motor?
> 
> Seems like (to me) it may be they didn't follow Intel spec


More torque, generally higher electrical efficiency with 6-poles vs 4-poles.

Nothing to do with Intel specs here, the fans work fine with my Corsair Link commander for example. Ditto the Aquaero 5.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> Mine works ok (talking about the link)
> 
> What makes 6 pole fans so unique?
> 
> This is something I don't fully understand but isn't a motor a motor?
> 
> Seems like (to me) it may be they didn't follow Intel spec
> 
> 
> 
> More torque, generally higher electrical efficiency with 6-poles vs 4-poles.
> 
> Nothing to do with Intel specs here, the fans work fine with my Corsair Link commander for example. Ditto the Aquaero 5.
Click to expand...

PWM D5's sometimes worked with the A5 as well . . just kind of a crap shoot, sometimes they did, sometimes not.


----------



## BelowAverageIQ

Hi Crew,

Is there a guide on setting up my Aquaero 6 so that the fans and pump increase with an increase in temp for both the CPU and GPU's?? Please.

EDIT** Disregard, found the guide linked on page 1









http://www.pcmforums.co.uk/showthread.php?3393-NAMS-NEW-BASIC-GUIDE-to-the-AQUAERO-5&s=39733419739c51c60c0c3020d01a701a

Thank you


----------



## Shoggy

What you try to do is not recommend. When you bind the speed of the pump to the temperature of the CPU/GPU it will always jump up and down because there can be large temperature jumps within seconds. Changing the pump speed also has no significant effect on the cooling performance if the pump already runs at a decent speed. You should just let it run at a speed where you have a good compromise between flow and sound level.


----------



## BelowAverageIQ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> What you try to do is not recommend. When you bind the speed of the pump to the temperature of the CPU/GPU it will always jump up and down because there can be large temperature jumps within seconds. Changing the pump speed also has no significant effect on the cooling performance if the pump already runs at a decent speed. You should just let it run at a speed where you have a good compromise between flow and sound level.


Thanks Shoggy. Have removed the curve for the pump. Makes sense.

I switched my pump from USB to Aquaero and Flow Sensor (USB) to USB. Now the flow is showing ay 3216l/h









Not sure why and or how that has occurred. Did not make any changes to the USB Flow unit or software. Obviously it is selected has High Flow USB under aquasuite.

Cannot find any settings under the Aquaero, obviously.


----------



## Shoggy

Your text is a bit confusing. From what I understand the sensor was connected via aquabus at first and now via USB


----------



## BelowAverageIQ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> Your text is a bit confusing. From what I understand the sensor was connected via aquabus at first and now via USB


That is correct. I changed them over for the pump curve. Will change them back, I suppose.

Under the MPS (flow sensor) the Alarm page shows the correct flow rate. As does the overview pages. Under the Aquaero page in Aquasuite - Sensors - Flow Sensors - Flow 1 and Flow 2 show zero.


----------



## Shoggy

I do not understand what you have done there with the pump curve.

The aquaero can not show the flow rate if the sensor is only connected via USB. The sensor must be also connected via aquabus if you want to use its value in the aquaero.


----------



## BelowAverageIQ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> I do not understand what you have done there with the pump curve.
> 
> The aquaero can not show the flow rate if the sensor is only connected via USB. The sensor must be also connected via aquabus if you want to use its value in the aquaero.


I set up a pump curve. But have now removed it, as you say, pointless with quickly changing temperatures.

I have set up the flow rate via the aquaero again. It is now showing correctly.

If I use a split cable, can I attach the D5 pump to the aquaero as well?


----------



## Shoggy

Yes, you can use both at the same time but you have to change the aquabus ID for one of the devices. This can be done in the system tab when the device is connected via USB. Each aquabus device must use a unique ID number.


----------



## BelowAverageIQ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> Yes, you can use both at the same time but you have to change the aquabus ID for one of the devices. This can be done in the system tab when the device is connected via USB. Each aquabus device must use a unique ID number.


Thanks Shoggy. Discovered that the hard way, before your post


----------



## Shoggy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> FYI, there's a bug making the Aquaero 6 incompatible fully with some (maybe all) 6-pole motor fans including the new be quiet! Silent Wings 3. The fan speed drops like a rock going from 100% PWM to 99% PWM even. be quiet! is working with Aquacomputer on this, and it seems older Aquaeros are fine.


This has nothing to do with the 6-pole thing. The problem with the Silent Wings 3 series is that the controlling chip that they use has an internal pull-up logic with 200K which is quite high. This results in a pretty low charging current of only 1.5µA (max) towards the aquaero (or any other fan controller). Since the aquaero has no internal pull-up (which is correct), the flank for the PWM signal ramps up slowly resulting in a vague waveform with triangles instead of rectangles or something close to it. We have informed Be Quiet about this with further details.


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> This has nothing to do with the 6-pole thing. The problem with the Silent Wings 3 series is that the controlling chip that they use has an internal pull-up logic with 200K which is quite high. This results in a pretty low charging current of only 1.5µA (max) towards the aquaero (or any other fan controller). Since the aquaero has no internal pull-up (which is correct), the flank for the PWM signal ramps up slowly resulting in a vague waveform with triangles instead of rectangles or something close to it. We have informed Be Quiet about this with further details.


Good to know, they gave me another explanation. Does the Aquaero 5 have an internal pull-up? They sent some pics and said it worked fine with it.

Can I quote your post in the review?


----------



## Master Chicken

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> ... chip they use has an internal pull-up logic with 200K which is quite high.


Wow, someone really took the term "weak pullup" to heart. At least they saved that tenth of a cent on that external pullup.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> This has nothing to do with the 6-pole thing. The problem with the Silent Wings 3 series is that the controlling chip that they use has an internal pull-up logic with 200K which is quite high. This results in a pretty low charging current of only 1.5µA (max) towards the aquaero (or any other fan controller). Since the aquaero has no internal pull-up (which is correct), the flank for the PWM signal ramps up slowly resulting in a vague waveform with triangles instead of rectangles or something close to it. We have informed Be Quiet about this with further details.
> 
> 
> 
> Good to know, they gave me another explanation. Does the Aquaero 5 have an internal pull-up? They sent some pics and said it worked fine with it.
> 
> Can I quote your post in the review?
Click to expand...

I'm interested in this answer too . . .

It seems like it sorta kinda does, (even if not exactly by design) which would explain it's sometimes working with the original versions of the PWM D5's, and now the fans with wayyyy to high a pullup value.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> FYI, there's a bug making the Aquaero 6 incompatible fully with some (maybe all) 6-pole motor fans including the new be quiet! Silent Wings 3. The fan speed drops like a rock going from 100% PWM to 99% PWM even. be quiet! is working with Aquacomputer on this, and it seems older Aquaeros are fine.
> 
> 
> 
> This has nothing to do with the 6-pole thing. The problem with the Silent Wings 3 series is that the controlling chip that they use has an internal pull-up logic with 200K which is quite high. This results in a pretty low charging current of only 1.5µA (max) towards the aquaero (or any other fan controller). Since the aquaero has no internal pull-up (which is correct), the flank for the PWM signal ramps up slowly resulting in a vague waveform with triangles instead of rectangles or something close to it. We have informed Be Quiet about this with further details.
Click to expand...

the scary part for me is i actually understood this.....







i think i been listening to diva too much























( i kidd i kidd )
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> This has nothing to do with the 6-pole thing. The problem with the Silent Wings 3 series is that the controlling chip that they use has an internal pull-up logic with 200K which is quite high. This results in a pretty low charging current of only 1.5µA (max) towards the aquaero (or any other fan controller). Since the aquaero has no internal pull-up (which is correct), the flank for the PWM signal ramps up slowly resulting in a vague waveform with triangles instead of rectangles or something close to it. We have informed Be Quiet about this with further details.
> 
> 
> 
> Good to know, they gave me another explanation. Does the Aquaero 5 have an internal pull-up? They sent some pics and said it worked fine with it.
> 
> Can I quote your post in the review?
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> I'm interested in this answer too . . .
> 
> It seems like it sorta kinda does, (even if not exactly by design) which would explain it's sometimes working with the original versions of the PWM D5's, and now the fans with wayyyy to high a pullup value.
Click to expand...









makes sense ish ....


----------



## Shoggy

The aquaero 5 has some kind of weak "pesudo-pull-up" which is required for the way how PWM was implemented here. It is just a side effect and was not designed to be an external pull-up.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> The aquaero 5 has some kind of weak "pesudo-pull-up" which is required for the way how PWM was implemented here. It is just a side effect and was not designed to be an external pull-up.


Thanks Shoggy,

With absolutely no technical jargon used, . . you said exactly what I had been thinking.

Looks like if someone does the Diva Mod on some splitties, the fans will work fine on the A6.

D.


----------



## VSG

I can confirm your adapter works with the Silent Wings 3 PWM fans too, Darlene.


----------



## Shoggy

Just found a cool deal at Banggod for those who want be a Diva







For the next ~7 hours they sell a very popular DIY oscilloscope for an unbeatable price of about $12 here. I own one myself and can recommend it for simple electronics investigations like that PWM stuff.



The firmware of it can be updated to a newer version that fixes some minor bugs and adds new functions. I wrote a tutorial here.


----------



## Mega Man

tyvm shoggy


----------



## AllGamer

i'm actually tempted to get one of those, specially the one with the acrylic box.... but... I don't think I have the time to solder in all those pieces.

I used to love doing those Radio Shack DIY stuff, I still do, just with work, and home and kids, and relatives / friends, and everything else in life... you hardly have time to sit down for a few hours to put all those lego pieces together









Is not hard, just time consuming, as you need to wait for the solder to be at the right temp, trim the left over, and repeat, until all the pieces are in place. Minimum 1 hour, 2 hours to make sure everything is done correctly.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> Just found a cool deal at Banggod for those who want be a Diva
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For the next ~7 hours they sell a very popular DIY oscilloscope for an unbeatable price of about $12 here. I own one myself and can recommend it for simple electronics investigations like that PWM stuff.
> 
> 
> 
> The firmware of it can be updated to a newer version that fixes some minor bugs and adds new functions. I wrote a tutorial here.


Thanks Shoggy, for encouraging me to spend frivolously yet again . . .









I have the scope with add-on plastic box and probe, a freq meter, and a function generator ordered, just for the fun of it. . . . . all for a bit less $ than a 5LT.

The box is about another $8 and the probe was $8 or so, both included shipping

If it all gets here, I'll try to do a little write up.

D.


----------



## smicha

Guys,

I need your help - I have Aquaero 6 Pro and bought farbwerk. How to connect farbwerk directly to Aquaero 6 - I cannot use USB attached cable to my motherboard because I have all internal USB ports taken on my motherboard.


----------



## Shoggy

You will have to connect the farbwerk at least one time via USB to change the mode of all channels to external control because otherwise you will not be able to adjust anything through the aquaero. When done you can remove the USB cable. The settings will be stored in the farbwerk. Afterwards you just connect one of the aquabus ports on the farbwerk to the highspeed aquabus port of the aquaero.

By the way: if you want to connect farbwerk via USB you could also use an internal USB hub like our Hubby7. Depending on what you want to achieve it might be the better solution because the aquabus allows only a limited control.


----------



## smicha

Shoggy,

Thank you for reply. This is Bluetooth version so do I really need a separate USB to mobo cable connecting farbwerk and my motherboard? I really cannot do it unless I get hubby 7? So I connect aquabus high from Aquaero 6 to one of bus ports in farbwerk - if so which cable shall I use?

Why is there something about damaging the board here
http://www.watercoolinguk.co.uk/images/product_images/large/46/aqua-computer-inking-usb-bluetooth-version-1011024-50846-2.jpg?1473537717791

Why the manual is so poorly written?


----------



## smicha

Shoggy - is this a properly connected farbwerk? I will connect molex cables later.


----------



## Shoggy

The current Bluetooth variant supports Bluetooth and aquabus at the same time. Older version were not able to do that because we had to use I/O-pins from the aquabus to connect the Bluetooth module. These old boards had their aquabus ports cut ex factory so customers were not able to connect the aquabus since this would have damaged the board.

Your photo is OK. Aquabus to aquabus - was it really that complicated?









Just in case that this is not showing your setup: you can also use the 3-pin cable that comes with the aquaero.


----------



## smicha

Shoggy - thank you again. So do I still need the USB cable from farbwerk to an internal USB port on my motherboard? This is my concern.


----------



## Shoggy

As said, you must connect USB at least one time for the initial setup. You will not be able to control the farbwerk through the aquaero if you do not change the mode of all channels to be controlled by an external source (the aquaero in this case).


----------



## smicha

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> As said, you must connect USB at least one time for the initial setup. You will not be able to control the farbwerk through the aquaero if you do not change the mode of all channels to be controlled by an external source (the aquaero in this case).


So shortly speaking - I must have two internal USB ports on my motherboard - one for aquaero and another one for farbwerk, right?

BTW - what is the role of aquabus high port that goes to farbwerk?


----------



## Shoggy

No, there is no need of a second USB port if you want to control the farbwerk through the aquaero but you have to connect the farbwerk at least one time via USB (use the cable of the aquaero).

The aquabus cable is required to control the farbwerk. No cable = no control


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> No, there is no need of a second USB port if you want to control the farbwerk through the aquaero but you have to connect the farbwerk at least one time via USB (use the cable of the aquaero).
> 
> The aquabus cable is required to control the farbwerk. No cable = no control


Some people just dont listen or read what is being said


----------



## smicha

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> ... but you have to connect the farbwerk at least one time via USB (use the cable of the aquaero).


Thank you Shoggy for your patience. Now I understand that I can disconnect Aquaero 6 Pro USB cable and use it one time for farbwerk and once it's detected reconnect back usb cable to aquaero. Forgive me, me idiot


----------



## CZSpeedyCZ

Hi,
I am planning new PC build with Aquaero and I am little consufed with new "update". Aquabus lowspeed port is not working anymore. If I buy USB tubemeter - like with Aqua Computer Aqualis XT res - I wont be able to use it? Or I can use it via USB and my Aquaero wont be able to use it? Or it will be possible to pass information from USB tubemetr via PC to Aquaero to use it/display it?
Thanks for clarification


----------



## Mega Man

No you can not use it.


----------



## Shoggy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CZSpeedyCZ*
> 
> If I buy USB tubemeter


This is where the problem really starts. Where do you want to but it? This product is discontinued since a long time now and also explains why there is no further aquabus support for it.


----------



## Chunky_Chimp

Correct me if I'm wrong but you can't even use the Tubemeter with anything but the Aquatube, right? As in, it's specifically calibrated for use with that specific reservoir lineup, correct?


----------



## Shoggy

You could use it with any other reservoir if you find a way to install it in a useful position. The tubemeter just tracks how much of its sensor is covered with water or not. For the aquainlet it can be also used upside down. There is a special cover available that allows to use the tubemeter with it.


----------



## smicha

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *smicha*
> 
> Thank you Shoggy for your patience. Now I understand that I can disconnect Aquaero 6 Pro USB cable and use it one time for farbwerk and once it's detected reconnect back usb cable to aquaero. Forgive me, me idiot


Shoggy,

I still have problem with connecting farbwerk having only one usb port available - both for farbwerk and aquaero. When I connect usb to farbwerk I have no options to see aquaero. I set farbwerk to be controlled via bluetooth and aquaero but when I disconnect usb cable from fabwerk and connect back to aquaero I cannot control any led connected to farbwerk. The only control that works is via smartphone. Could you please write step by step what should do in aquaero to read farbwerk?


----------



## roamin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *smicha*
> 
> Shoggy,
> 
> I still have problem with connecting farbwerk having only one usb port available - both for farbwerk and aquaero. When I connect usb to farbwerk I have no options to see aquaero. I set farbwerk to be controlled via bluetooth and aquaero but when I disconnect usb cable from fabwerk and connect back to aquaero I cannot control any led connected to farbwerk. The only control that works is via smartphone. Could you please write step by step what should do in aquaero to read farbwerk?


no one seems to have this internal header issue, how many headers does your board have? what do you have connected to the headers on your motherboard?
only thing i have connected to the internal header is the aquaero.

you can buy one of these to give you more internal headers


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *roamin*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *smicha*
> 
> Shoggy,
> 
> I still have problem with connecting farbwerk having only one usb port available - both for farbwerk and aquaero. When I connect usb to farbwerk I have no options to see aquaero. I set farbwerk to be controlled via bluetooth and aquaero but when I disconnect usb cable from fabwerk and connect back to aquaero I cannot control any led connected to farbwerk. The only control that works is via smartphone. Could you please write step by step what should do in aquaero to read farbwerk?
> 
> 
> 
> no one seems to have this internal header issue, how many headers does your board have? what do you have connected to the headers on your motherboard?
> only thing i have connected to the internal header is the aquaero.
> 
> you can buy one of these to give you more internal headers
Click to expand...

Yes,

Those little NZXT hubs are great.


----------



## roamin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Yes,
> 
> Those little NZXT hubs are great.


i actually dont have one but i would love one for my build thats coming up in a CL S8 just to help keep the build looking cleaner. problem is there not available in australia.

spoke to a shop here thats more likely to sell these types of items and they said they spoke to nzxt and pretty much dont want to deal with the shop unless they buy large quantities which in australia is just not worth it. also not worth me buying from the states as i dont really want to pay $50 postage for a $20 item


----------



## Barefooter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *roamin*
> 
> i actually dont have one but i would love one for my build thats coming up in a CL S8 just to help keep the build looking cleaner. problem is there not available in australia.
> 
> spoke to a shop here thats more likely to sell these types of items and they said they spoke to nzxt and pretty much dont want to deal with the shop unless they buy large quantities which in australia is just not worth it. also not worth me buying from the states as i dont really want to pay $50 postage for a $20 item


The Aquacomputer Hubby you can order from here. Not sure what the shipping would be though.
http://shop.aquacomputer.de/product_info.php?products_id=3419


----------



## GTXJackBauer

The hubby is the your best bet. I grabbed one to replace my old NZXT hub that's been said to sometimes be problematic. I have my USB loaded up the wazoo and might add another to the mix to add more devices since my MB has only ONE! USB 2.0 header. Yeah I know, what was EVGA thinking on their X99 flagship MB.


----------



## roamin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Barefooter*
> 
> The Aquacomputer Hubby you can order from here. Not sure what the shipping would be though.
> http://shop.aquacomputer.de/product_info.php?products_id=3419


i dont buy from aquacomputer as there shipping is ridiculous. like really pathetic actually, maybe one day they will smarten up and sort out some proper postage prices because i can tell you now it does not cost 34,90 EUR to post such a small item yet thats what they want to charge me.

hubby = 16,72 EUR
shipping = 34,90 EUR

total 51.62 EUR
total australian is $78

$78 for something so minor and small i dont think so lol. aquacomputer need to sort this rubbish out. every other online site seems to be able to handle various shipping prices depending how much you buy and so on so why cant aquacomputer?


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *roamin*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Yes,
> 
> Those little NZXT hubs are great.
> 
> 
> 
> i actually dont have one but i would love one for my build thats coming up in a CL S8 just to help keep the build looking cleaner. problem is there not available in australia.
> 
> spoke to a shop here thats more likely to sell these types of items and they said they spoke to nzxt and pretty much dont want to deal with the shop unless they buy large quantities which in australia is just not worth it. also not worth me buying from the states as i dont really want to pay $50 postage for a $20 item
Click to expand...

Have you tried aqua tuning?
Also the Item below works.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Barefooter*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *roamin*
> 
> i actually dont have one but i would love one for my build thats coming up in a CL S8 just to help keep the build looking cleaner. problem is there not available in australia.
> 
> spoke to a shop here thats more likely to sell these types of items and they said they spoke to nzxt and pretty much dont want to deal with the shop unless they buy large quantities which in australia is just not worth it. also not worth me buying from the states as i dont really want to pay $50 postage for a $20 item
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The Aquacomputer Hubby you can order from here. Not sure what the shipping would be though.
> http://shop.aquacomputer.de/product_info.php?products_id=3419
Click to expand...

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GTXJackBauer*
> 
> The hubby is the your best bet. I grabbed one to replace my old NZXT hub that's been said to sometimes be problematic. I have my USB loaded up the wazoo and might add another to the mix to add more devices since my MB has only ONE! USB 2.0 header. Yeah I know, what was EVGA thinking on their X99 flagship MB.


You can use the usb 2.0 from the usb3.0 headers
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *roamin*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Barefooter*
> 
> The Aquacomputer Hubby you can order from here. Not sure what the shipping would be though.
> http://shop.aquacomputer.de/product_info.php?products_id=3419
> 
> 
> 
> i dont buy from aquacomputer as there shipping is ridiculous. like really pathetic actually, maybe one day they will smarten up and sort out some proper postage prices because i can tell you now it does not cost 34,90 EUR to post such a small item yet thats what they want to charge me.
> 
> hubby = 16,72 EUR
> shipping = 34,90 EUR
> 
> total 51.62 EUR
> total australian is $78
> 
> $78 for something so minor and small i dont think so lol. aquacomputer need to sort this rubbish out. every other online site seems to be able to handle various shipping prices depending how much you buy and so on so why cant aquacomputer?
Click to expand...

If you email them they can usually do small items far cheaper.


----------



## roamin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> If you email them they can usually do small items far cheaper.


well thats good news, but not exactly a viable way to run business now is it? doesnt say anywhere on there site about it so i would never think of it.

there has been quite a few AC items we have collected over the last 8 weeks and not one thing from AQ themselves. they really need to smarten up there system. you shouldnt need to email them for better prices. whoever deals with there website needs to implement a better postage system or if its dhl themselves that charge this then find another postage service.

for example i can buy a cpu block of ek from them direct in europe and there postage was around $15 australian. not 35 euro.

i like to impulse buy and AC is one site i never do that to lol


----------



## InfoSeeker

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *roamin*
> 
> well thats good news, but not exactly a viable way to run business now is it? doesnt say anywhere on there site about it so i would never think of it.
> 
> there has been quite a few AC items we have collected over the last 8 weeks and not one thing from AQ themselves. they really need to smarten up there system. you shouldnt need to email them for better prices. whoever deals with there website needs to implement a better postage system or if its dhl themselves that charge this then find another postage service.
> 
> for example i can buy a cpu block of ek from them direct in europe and there postage was around $15 australian. not 35 euro.
> 
> i like to impulse buy and AC is one site i never do that to lol


aquacomputer have a negotiated price with their shipper... one price, no matter how much or how little, so they can't really publish another price on the web-shop.

But as you now know, they offer a "mailer" option if the item fits in a mailer.

Just a business decision they made... and they still sell the item, whether you buy direct from them or from a distributor


----------



## smicha

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *roamin*
> 
> no one seems to have this internal header issue, how many headers does your board have? what do you have connected to the headers on your motherboard?
> only thing i have connected to the internal header is the aquaero.
> 
> you can buy one of these to give you more internal headers


Shoggy told me that I will have to connect USB cable just one time to my motherboard. And I did so. Bu when I do it I have no access to Aquaero sensors readout cause it is disconnected. How many time do I have to repeat I have only one USB internal port on my motherboard. This is getting annoying.


----------



## roamin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *InfoSeeker*
> 
> aquacomputer have a negotiated price with their shipper... one price, no matter how much or how little, so they can't really publish another price on the web-shop.
> 
> But as you now know, they offer a "mailer" option if the item fits in a mailer.
> 
> Just a business decision they made... and they still sell the item, whether you buy direct from them or from a distributor


only site i know of that does it.
only site i wont buy from.
again its there choice, yes they may still sell items and thats good but its much easier and cheaper for me to buy EK products due to this. so its just one of those things. my budget is not endless. therefor im not willing to pay that sort of postage for a block when for $50 cheaper i can have a block that performs as good from a competitor delivered to my door. but if postage wasnt a rip then id be buying AC.

not here to argue about it. but its reality, unless its spoken off then no one will know. for australians this is a bloody expensive hobby and when doing a full build / loop you always forget stuff. so you buy more, which means you pay more for postage. it all adds up very very fast!

we used to have an australian seller for AQ items, but there no longer around and AQ dont sell in australia which sucks big time as i love there gear.

new build is about to start and the only AQ gear im using this time is my old aquaero and new farbwerk and new res as i love the aqualis res but still that was donated to me by a good friend. my old build from years ago was pretty much all AQ gear except soft tube, fittings and rad, i used there old eheim pump. that thing was nuts in its day


----------



## roamin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *smicha*
> 
> Shoggy told me that I will have to connect USB cable just one time to my motherboard. And I did so. Bu when I do it I have no access to Aquaero sensors readout cause it is disconnected. How many time do I have to repeat I have only one USB internal port on my motherboard. This is getting annoying.


If you plug the farbwerk into the usb header you actually use the aquasuite software to change the setting in the farbwerk. You do not need access to the aquero whilst changing the farbwerk setting to aquabus.

Use aquasuite to do all the work. You can use aquasuite to setup the aquaero as well


----------



## GTXJackBauer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *roamin*
> 
> i dont buy from aquacomputer as there shipping is ridiculous. like really pathetic actually, maybe one day they will smarten up and sort out some proper postage prices because i can tell you now it does not cost 34,90 EUR to post such a small item yet thats what they want to charge me.
> 
> hubby = 16,72 EUR
> shipping = 34,90 EUR
> 
> total 51.62 EUR
> total australian is $78
> 
> $78 for something so minor and small i dont think so lol. aquacomputer need to sort this rubbish out. every other online site seems to be able to handle various shipping prices depending how much you buy and so on so why cant aquacomputer?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *roamin*
> 
> well thats good news, but not exactly a viable way to run business now is it? doesnt say anywhere on there site about it so i would never think of it.
> 
> there has been quite a few AC items we have collected over the last 8 weeks and not one thing from AQ themselves. they really need to smarten up there system. you shouldnt need to email them for better prices. whoever deals with there website needs to implement a better postage system or if its dhl themselves that charge this then find another postage service.
> 
> for example i can buy a cpu block of ek from them direct in europe and there postage was around $15 australian. not 35 euro.
> 
> i like to impulse buy and AC is one site i never do that to lol


With all due respect, you're blowing this out of proportion and not looking at it from the other side. You're one of the few countries in the globe that is a logistical nightmare because you live in a massive pond all alone. Ok I kid but I hope you understand, just because you purchased something cheaper in one country, doesn't necessarily mean it will be the same in another, in the same continent (EU). There's Duties, Fees, Taxes, Politics, etc. Yes, best way to get something is from within aussie land but that doesn't necessarily mean they'll have niche products, especially AQs and not many in your populous will be interested in PC niche products and to only bring a few items out there is not cost effective for said companies. It's just how it works. Because of your location, you'll have to pay more for niche things. If it was something more common to the populous, you'd have it readily available at a decent price.


----------



## roamin

Im not here to argue this. I already said that.

My point is price your postage to suit the item. simple.

Its not rocket science is it.

Blue led face for aq5. Prime example is not worth 35 euro to ship is it.

Im happy to pay postage.

Im not happy to be bent over the table and raped at the same time though.

Leave it at that!

Oh and if mail postage can be cheaper then seriously add that to the site as i did not know until today! Too late as i have everything now except the case which is due this/next week.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *roamin*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *smicha*
> 
> Shoggy told me that I will have to connect USB cable just one time to my motherboard. And I did so. Bu when I do it I have no access to Aquaero sensors readout cause it is disconnected. How many time do I have to repeat I have only one USB internal port on my motherboard. This is getting annoying.
> 
> 
> 
> If you plug the farbwerk into the usb header you actually use the aquasuite software to change the setting in the farbwerk. You do not need access to the aquero whilst changing the farbwerk setting to aquabus.
> 
> Use aquasuite to do all the work. You can use aquasuite to setup the aquaero as well
Click to expand...

Don't forget to click the save button


----------



## roamin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> Don't forget to click the save button


Good point mega i forgot about that part!!


----------



## Shoggy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *smicha*
> 
> I still have problem with connecting farbwerk having only one usb port available - both for farbwerk and aquaero. When I connect usb to farbwerk I have no options to see aquaero. I set farbwerk to be controlled via bluetooth and aquaero but when I disconnect usb cable from fabwerk and connect back to aquaero I cannot control any led connected to farbwerk. The only control that works is via smartphone. Could you please write step by step what should do in aquaero to read farbwerk?


The devie menu (the one on the left bar) is only accessible when this device is connected via USB. When you control the farbwerk through the aquaero, then yo configure it in the controllers tab of the aquaero. Add a new controller by clicking on the upper right plus icon, select preset value for example and a new controller box will be added to the end. Here you can cliock the plus icon again to assign outputs and there you will find the farbwerk.

There will be no menu like you know it directly from the farbwerk. The aquabus is always more or less limited in its function since the aquaero has to process the control for the connected device.


----------



## Mads1

received my AQ 6XT for my build, cant wait to get it installed now.


----------



## smicha

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> The devie menu (the one on the left bar) is only accessible when this device is connected via USB. When you control the farbwerk through the aquaero, then yo configure it in the controllers tab of the aquaero. Add a new controller by clicking on the upper right plus icon, select preset value for example and a new controller box will be added to the end. Here you can cliock the plus icon again to assign outputs and there you will find the farbwerk.
> 
> There will be no menu like you know it directly from the farbwerk. The aquabus is always more or less limited in its function since the aquaero has to process the control for the connected device.


Shoggy,

Thank you. I just got it working and it is breathtaking







When machine is not rendering the color is blue, when all 7 gpus are warming water it becomes red









I figured out that I have to set outputs in aquaero in the way presented on the screenshot


----------



## Shoggy

Perfect


----------



## smicha

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> Perfect


Stay tuned for more


----------



## Vindicare

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *smicha*
> 
> Shoggy,
> 
> Thank you. I just got it working and it is breathtaking
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When machine is not rendering the color is blue, when all 7 gpus are warming water it becomes red
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I figured out that I have to set outputs in aquaero in the way presented on the screenshot


that temprature curve is for your delta?

you let it reach to 50cº ?


----------



## smicha

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Vindicare*
> 
> that temprature curve is for your delta?
> 
> you let it reach to 50cº ?


delta is from 0 to 10C. curve for fans is set on water temp to 50 but never exceed here 35C


----------



## roamin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *smicha*
> 
> Shoggy,
> 
> Thank you. I just got it working and it is breathtaking
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When machine is not rendering the color is blue, when all 7 gpus are warming water it becomes red
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I figured out that I have to set outputs in aquaero in the way presented on the screenshot


what motherboard are you using for 7 gpus yet it only has 1 internal usb header?


----------



## Master Chicken

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *roamin*
> 
> what motherboard are you using for 7 gpus yet it only has 1 internal usb header?


Technically, he said the others were in use / not available, not that he only had just one on his motherboard.


----------



## roamin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *smicha*
> 
> How many time do I have to repeat I have only one USB internal port on my motherboard. This is getting annoying.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Master Chicken*
> 
> Technically, he said the others were in use / not available, not that he only had just one on his motherboard.


going of what he said?


----------



## Master Chicken

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *roamin*
> 
> going of what he said?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *smicha*
> 
> Guys,
> 
> I need your help - I have Aquaero 6 Pro and bought farbwerk. How to connect farbwerk directly to Aquaero 6 - I cannot use USB attached cable to my motherboard because I have all internal USB ports taken on my motherboard.


His original request above ... you must have missed that.


----------



## roamin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Master Chicken*
> 
> His original request above ... you must have missed that.


yeah i missed that one.


----------



## smicha

Guys,

Yes - I have only one internal open usb port (asrock rack server mobo). Anyway I managed to get it working as stated previously.


----------



## GTXJackBauer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *smicha*
> 
> Guys,
> 
> Yes - I have only one internal open usb port (asrock rack server mobo). Anyway I managed to get it working as stated previously.


----------



## smicha

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GTXJackBauer*


I was also surprised that there is only one usb port there


----------



## AllGamer

yeah, it's such a weird design most motherboard usually have minimum of Two, but most normally have 3 to 4 USB internal ports


----------



## GTXJackBauer

My EVGA flagship X99 Classified MB only has one USB 2.0 header and many folks complained about it, rightfully so.


----------



## Master Chicken

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GTXJackBauer*
> 
> My EVGA flagship X99 Classified MB only has one USB 2.0 header and many folks complained about it, rightfully so.


Yet it was probably awash in SATA ports that you'll never use.


----------



## Bogga

Why does aquaero say that my fans are revving? They are going in a solid speed without change...

It's 4 vardar... two of them are connected via a 2-1-splitter to a splitty9 and the other two are connected to the splitty9 and then up to fan1 on the aquaero. I've tried to see if I had someething set fufferent from the top fans. But AFAIK I've got the same settings...

Have I missed something?


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bogga*
> 
> 
> 
> Why does aquaero say that my fans are revving? They are going in a solid speed without change...
> 
> It's 4 vardar... two of them are connected via a 2-1-splitter to a splitty9 and the other two are connected to the splitty9 and then up to fan1 on the aquaero. I've tried to see if I had someething set fufferent from the top fans. But AFAIK I've got the same settings...
> 
> Have I missed something?


Look at how you have the 2 connected to the 2 to 1 splitter, and if it has the tach wire for both fans connected together at the input end, and that end is connected to the tach header of the splitty, then the Aquaero is seeing tach pulses from 2 fans with random overlapping leading to the erratic rpm reading you're seeing.


----------



## Shoggy

Why are you even using a 2-to-1 cable on splitty?









The board offers more than enough ports for all of your fans.


----------



## Mega Man

Not for my fans....


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> Why are you even using a 2-to-1 cable on splitty?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The board offers more than enough ports for all of your fans.


He probably needs it as an extension from the fans to the splitty, would be my guess . . . .

But 2 single extensions may be what he needs to solve the erratic readings, or just pull a tach wire out of 1 connector . . .

D.


----------



## jsutter71

Hello All, I have a question regarding the Splitty9. When used as a fan splitter, is it normal for the speed signal to not be controllable? I have 8 Noctua PWM fans connected to one, and noticed that I have the same situation that I had, when I was using the Modmytoys splitter, before I modded them.


----------



## jvillaveces

I'm about to start an upgrade of my loop from soft to hard tubing. I will take the opportunity to simplify my wiring from a mess of extensions and splitters to PCB fan hubs for each rad (I would have used the splitty9, but it was out of stock everywhere, so I went with the Silverstone units). These hubs can be powered by a SATA connection. Should I make that connection, or can the AQ6 Pro power them, which would let me simplify cabling even more?


----------



## Bogga

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> Why are you even using a 2-to-1 cable on splitty?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The board offers more than enough ports for all of your fans.


As someone mentioned... the cable from the fan in the back wasn't long enough and there was no way I could fit the splitty9 so all cables could reach it


----------



## jsutter71

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jvillaveces*
> 
> I'm about to start an upgrade of my loop from soft to hard tubing. I will take the opportunity to simplify my wiring from a mess of extensions and splitters to PCB fan hubs for each rad (I would have used the splitty9, but it was out of stock everywhere, so I went with the Silverstone units). These hubs can be powered by a SATA connection. Should I make that connection, or can the AQ6 Pro power them, which would let me simplify cabling even more?


Depending on the complexity of your loop, You may want to consider more then one drain port location. I am in the midst of dealing with a GPU issue pertaining to one of my three that I have in triple SLI. During troubleshooting I have had to drain and refill my system on three separate occasions last week alone. I am using PETG tubing, and because of the size, and multiple angles, have discovered how difficult it is to properly drain my loop. I have one ball valve fitting located at the lowest part of my loop, which I mistakenly thought would be adequate enough to properly drain my system. I have discovered that I should have added at least two more in other parts of my loop. I think hard tubing looks nicer, but is more complicated when it comes to maintenance, and in my case troubleshooting certain issues.


----------



## inoran81

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jvillaveces*
> 
> I'm about to start an upgrade of my loop from soft to hard tubing. I will take the opportunity to simplify my wiring from a mess of extensions and splitters to PCB fan hubs for each rad (I would have used the splitty9, but it was out of stock everywhere, so I went with the Silverstone units). These hubs can be powered by a SATA connection. Should I make that connection, or can the AQ6 Pro power them, which would let me simplify cabling even more?


Hope I didn't cause the shortage...


----------



## Mega Man




----------



## InfoSeeker

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jsutter71*
> 
> Hello All, I have a question regarding the Splitty9. When used as a fan splitter, is it normal for the speed signal to not be controllable? I have 8 Noctua PWM fans connected to one, and noticed that I have the same situation that I had, when I was using the Modmytoys splitter, before I modded them.


You are probably like me... "manual? I don't need no stinking manual"... but sometimes there are gems in there.
Check your aquabus/fan selection jumper.
Snipped from the Splitty9 manual:
Quote:


> *Fan splitter application*
> Connect the white connector marked with the word "input" to a
> fan output using the supplied cable. Power supply and PWM
> signal (if available) are provided to all nine black connectors,
> additionally the speed signal received from the connector
> marked "rpm" is forwarded to the fan output. Make sure the
> jumper is *not* set to the "aquabus" position!


----------



## jsutter71

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *InfoSeeker*
> 
> You are probably like me... "manual? I don't need no stinking manual"... but sometimes there are gems in there.
> Check your aquabus/fan selection jumper.
> Snipped from the Splitty9 manual:


I did read the manual.. I'll double check the jumper though.
Thank you.


----------



## DerComissar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *inoran81*
> 
> Hope I didn't cause the shortage...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


You.............Splitty9 hoarder, you!

I suppose you have several Hubby7's as well, lol.


----------



## jvillaveces

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *inoran81*
> 
> Hope I didn't cause the shortage...


I'm pretty sure you did!


----------



## inoran81

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DerComissar*
> 
> You.............Splitty9 hoarder, you!
> 
> I suppose you have several Hubby7's as well, lol.


Bingo....


----------



## Mega Man

I know you can buy converting cables. But one of my fav part of the nzxt hubs ate the antitank usb a port although stuff like bluetooth ect are starting to get more common on mobos I prefer adding them in on my own.


----------



## newb here

Hey guys I;m hopping you can help me out.

I just got done putting together my PC and setting everything up i have an:

Aquaero 6
2 high flow sensors
@ AQ D5 pumps

I connected the aquaero 6 via USB to PC first and updated firmware(2007) then i connected each device to PC via USB to assign each one a different number(12-flow sensor #1, 13-flow sensor #2, 14-pump #1, 15 pump #2)

Then i continued to connect all devises to a 4-way PWM slitter and from there to the High Speed connection to the Aquaero 6.

When i plug back in the computer and start it up the display on the Aquaero 6 does not come on, And when i try and just connect a single devise to the High speed connection it does not show up in Aquasuite.

All aquabus connections are make with 4-pin PWM connectors and when i connect the devises to the PC individually via USB they work fine.
I'm at a compete loss here I've been scouring the net to no avail, there very little info on how to set these things up properly which is a shame because Aquaero isn't the most user friendly


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *newb here*
> 
> Hey guys I;m hopping you can help me out.
> 
> I just got done putting together my PC and setting everything up i have an:
> 
> Aquaero 6
> 2 high flow sensors
> @ AQ D5 pumps
> 
> I connected the aquaero 6 via USB to PC first and updated firmware(2007) then i connected each device to PC via USB to assign each one a different number(12-flow sensor #1, 13-flow sensor #2, 14-pump #1, 15 pump #2)
> 
> Then i continued to connect all devises to a 4-way PWM slitter and from there to the High Speed connection to the Aquaero 6.
> 
> When i plug back in the computer and start it up the display on the Aquaero 6 does not come on, And when i try and just connect a single devise to the High speed connection it does not show up in Aquasuite.
> 
> All aquabus connections are make with 4-pin PWM connectors and when i connect the devises to the PC individually via USB they work fine.
> I'm at a compete loss here I've been scouring the net to no avail, there very little info on how to set these things up properly which is a shame because Aquaero isn't the most user friendly


simple things to check. Aquaero have the 4 pin molex connected to PSU correct? Devices were set priority to Aquabus instead of USB in the Aquasuite software correct?


----------



## jvillaveces

When using an external, powered PWM splitter such as the Silverstone, is it necessary to power the fans through the splitter's Sata or Molex connection, or can power come through the 4-pin fan connection to the Aquaero (Aq6)? If both are pssible, which is better?


----------



## InfoSeeker

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *newb here*
> 
> Hey guys I;m hopping you can help me out.
> 
> I just got done putting together my PC and setting everything up i have an:
> 
> Aquaero 6
> 2 high flow sensors
> @ AQ D5 pumps
> 
> I connected the aquaero 6 via USB to PC first and updated firmware(2007) then i connected each device to PC via USB to assign each one a different number(12-flow sensor #1, 13-flow sensor #2, 14-pump #1, 15 pump #2)
> 
> Then i continued to connect all devises to a 4-way PWM slitter and from there to the High Speed connection to the Aquaero 6.
> 
> When i plug back in the computer and start it up the display on the Aquaero 6 does not come on, And when i try and just connect a single devise to the High speed connection it does not show up in Aquasuite.
> 
> All aquabus connections are make with 4-pin PWM connectors and when i connect the devises to the PC individually via USB they work fine.
> I'm at a compete loss here I've been scouring the net to no avail, there very little info on how to set these things up properly which is a shame because Aquaero isn't the most user friendly


As Gabriel suggests on molex power connection & priority settings.

Does the AQ6 show in aquasuite, and if so can you control it there?
If so check the display connection to the AQ6 is good.

Could we have a link to the PWM splitter you are using for the aquabus connections?


----------



## InfoSeeker

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jvillaveces*
> 
> When using an external, powered PWM splitter such as the Silverstone, is it necessary to power the fans through the splitter's Sata or Molex connection, or can power come through the 4-pin fan connection to the Aquaero (Aq6)? If both are pssible, which is better?


Under Remarks of the Specifications Tab on the Product Page it states:
" Fan will not start unless SATA power cable is connected. Speed detection and PWM speed control are functional only when motherboard is connected."
So it would appear you need to plug-in the SATA power connection.

Also, if you look at the connector pics under the Feature Photos tab, you will see they each have 2 wires... power for the SATA connector and RPM/PWM for the fan connector.


----------



## newb here

Here is the Splitter

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIA9F93P82887&cm_re=4_way_pwm-_-9SIA9F93P82887-_-Product

And the Aquaero 6 shows up in aquasuite but when i plug in the high side aquabus with the splitter the aquaero 6 display goes blank and it says the usb is not connected in aquasuite


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *newb here*
> 
> Here is the Splitter
> 
> http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIA9F93P82887&cm_re=4_way_pwm-_-9SIA9F93P82887-_-Product
> 
> And the Aquaero 6 shows up in aquasuite but when i plug in the high side aquabus with the splitter the aquaero 6 display goes blank and it says the usb is not connected in aquasuite


Don't ever plug or unplug the Aquaero either from USB or Aquabus with the PSU live or even connected to the outlet. Take the power chord off the outlet before changing any connections. Not saying you did but just a fair warning.

this might be useful, prepared by the late Norman:

http://www.serifwebresources.com/phpBB2mt/viewtopic.php?t=2&forumid=872280


----------



## newb here

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> Don't ever plug or unplug the Aquaero either from USB or Aquabus with the PSU live or even connected to the outlet. Take the power chord off the outlet before changing any connections. Not saying you did but just a fair warning.
> 
> this might be useful, prepared by the late Norman:
> 
> http://www.serifwebresources.com/phpBB2mt/viewtopic.php?t=2&forumid=872280


I checked out that link and it would have been VERY useful but i figured out all the base stuff though trial and error lol but that would have been nice.

I have everything up and running the pumps pumping even all my fans(23 split up into 4 PWM splitters) all on there own fan controller moving to the temp of the CPU or GPU.
Its just when i want to connect the pumps to the Aquaero so i can monitor them and see the LPH with the flow sensors that im having the issue.
IDK it kind of sucks im aboout ready to give up on it, everything working fine just stink i can even use the multi speed pump and flow sensors.


----------



## jvillaveces

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *InfoSeeker*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *jvillaveces*
> 
> When using an external, powered PWM splitter such as the Silverstone, is it necessary to power the fans through the splitter's Sata or Molex connection, or can power come through the 4-pin fan connection to the Aquaero (Aq6)? If both are pssible, which is better?
> 
> 
> 
> Under Remarks of the Specifications Tab on the Product Page it states:
> " Fan will not start unless SATA power cable is connected. Speed detection and PWM speed control are functional only when motherboard is connected."
> So it would appear you need to plug-in the SATA power connection.
> 
> Also, if you look at the connector pics under the Feature Photos tab, you will see they each have 2 wires... power for the SATA connector and RPM/PWM for the fan connector.
Click to expand...

TYVM Infoseeker!


----------



## InfoSeeker

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *newb here*
> 
> Here is the Splitter
> 
> http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIA9F93P82887&cm_re=4_way_pwm-_-9SIA9F93P82887-_-Product
> 
> And the Aquaero 6 shows up in aquasuite but when i plug in the high side aquabus with the splitter the aquaero 6 display goes blank and it says the usb is not connected in aquasuite


I have seen that spiltter, but am not familiar with it. If it is a true PWM splitter, then the RPM signal comes from only one fan connector (probably CPU) and the device will have issues with the aquabus.

I don't remember if you said you tried connecting each device, one at a time to the AQ6, without use of that splitter?


----------



## Shoggy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *newb here*
> 
> Here is the Splitter
> 
> http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIA9F93P82887&cm_re=4_way_pwm-_-9SIA9F93P82887-_-Product
> 
> And the Aquaero 6 shows up in aquasuite but when i plug in the high side aquabus with the splitter the aquaero 6 display goes blank and it says the usb is not connected in aquasuite


Sounds a bit like you could have a short circuit problem here. I see no other reason why the device should shut down itself.


----------



## newb here

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> Sounds a bit like you could have a short circuit problem here. I see no other reason why the device should shut down itself.


but when i connect say just one flow sensor to the aquaero 6 the display does not go off and i still cant see it in aquasuite.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *newb here*
> 
> but when i connect say just one flow sensor to the aquaero 6 the display does not go off and i still cant see it in aquasuite.


Exactly his point isn't? Something you are doing might be causing a short circuit problem. If you connect via usb or connect each device individually on the aquabus it works fine then is the connection of all devices in the splitter that are causing a problem... Have you tested each device alone on the Aquabus? Did it worked?


----------



## newb here

SOOOO big dummy here...



Once i sorted the wiring issue it still didn't work all together, But they did work when i plugged them up separate not going though the splitter. I'm pretty sure now that this splitter only has one true 4 pin the other three are missing the connection for the 4th pin. it make scenes that when i tested the devises it would work i shouldn't have tested it through the splitter...

So I'm gonna get a new splitter and i think i should be back on track.

Can someone send me a link to a splitter that will work, Thank you and sorry for my stupidity







i'll just chalk this one up to you live and you learn lol


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *newb here*
> 
> SOOOO big dummy here...
> 
> 
> 
> Once i sorted the wiring issue it still didn't work all together, But they did work when i plugged them up separate not going though the splitter. I'm pretty sure now that this splitter only has one true 4 pin the other three are missing the connection for the 4th pin. it make scenes that when i tested the devises it would work i shouldn't have tested it through the splitter...
> 
> So I'm gonna get a new splitter and i think i should be back on track.
> 
> Can someone send me a link to a splitter that will work, Thank you and sorry for my stupidity
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> i'll just chalk this one up to you live and you learn lol


don't feel bad, perfectly normal. Most splitters will do the same, since the rpm pin in all fan headers will cause some problems and only one fan header is required to have it. You can search for pwm splliters and check those that have all 4 pins in all fan headers... I don't recall any from the top of my head but if memory still serves maybe the boards from modmytoys have all pin connectors:

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/21000/ele-1197/4-Pin_Molex_SATA_Power_Distribution_PCB_8x_PWM_2x_4-pin_Block_MMT-PCB-4-8P2M1S.html


----------



## Master Chicken

A fan splitter is going to only propagate pin 3 to one other header, and pin 4 will go to all. You should probably daisy chain the Aquabus devices as most have a coming and a going header on them ... meant for daisy chaining.

Edit: Gabrielzm punched the button a few seconds before me but he's saying the same thing.


----------



## GTXJackBauer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *newb here*
> 
> SOOOO big dummy here...
> 
> 
> 
> Once i sorted the wiring issue it still didn't work all together, But they did work when i plugged them up separate not going though the splitter. I'm pretty sure now that this splitter only has one true 4 pin the other three are missing the connection for the 4th pin. it make scenes that when i tested the devises it would work i shouldn't have tested it through the splitter...
> 
> So I'm gonna get a new splitter and i think i should be back on track.
> 
> Can someone send me a link to a splitter that will work, Thank you and sorry for my stupidity
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> i'll just chalk this one up to you live and you learn lol


Aquacomputer SPLITTY9 Splitter (53231) should solve all your problems. Its a Fan and Aquabus splitter all in one. Just make sure to configure the jumper on it for either or.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Master Chicken*
> 
> A fan splitter is going to only propagate pin 3 to one other header, and pin 4 will go to all. You should probably daisy chain the Aquabus devices as most have a coming and a going header on them ... meant for daisy chaining.
> 
> Edit: Gabrielzm punched the button a few seconds before me but he's saying the same thing.


FYI no most don't have a in and out aquabus
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GTXJackBauer*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *newb here*
> 
> SOOOO big dummy here...
> 
> 
> 
> Once i sorted the wiring issue it still didn't work all together, But they did work when i plugged them up separate not going though the splitter. I'm pretty sure now that this splitter only has one true 4 pin the other three are missing the connection for the 4th pin. it make scenes that when i tested the devises it would work i shouldn't have tested it through the splitter...
> 
> So I'm gonna get a new splitter and i think i should be back on track.
> 
> Can someone send me a link to a splitter that will work, Thank you and sorry for my stupidity
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> i'll just chalk this one up to you live and you learn lol
> 
> 
> 
> Aquacomputer SPLITTY9 Splitter (53231) should solve all your problems. Its a Fan and Aquabus splitter all in one. Just make sure to configure the jumper on it for either or.
Click to expand...

Just to emphasize it is either aquabus or fan splitter and yes the mod my toy splitters work as well


----------



## Master Chicken

Of course, you're right. I've only considered the Poweradjust 3 and the Fabwerk which both have them. I see the MPS devices only have one connection.


----------



## Mega Man

Not a big deal. Just making sure you know. Don't have time for a long post tonight :/


----------



## AllGamer

Alright I've officially jumped on board now









Planning to pick up an Aquaero 6 + Passive Cooler for Aquaero 6 + Front Faceplate Black (to match my case)

*I'm trying to figure out which cable I'll need to link my 2x Aquacomputer Flow Rate Sensor to the Aquaero 6.* does anyone know?
NVM found the cable, but is too short Aquacomputer Cable for Flow Meter, for Aquaero/Aquastream XT Ultra/Poweradjust 18cm Model: AQ-53100,
Are there longer ones?

*Control Peltier TEC On/Off*
...and I'm trying to figure out how to use this Aquacomputer Aquaero 5/6 Connector 2pol. For Relay Output Model: AQ-53036

I'm planning to use it control a Peltier TEC1-12730 chip to go On/Off at pre-set Temps monitored by the Aquaero 6.

Now the description says Max 1 Amp and 12 Volt

the TEC1-12730 chip is rated Max 30 Amp, but not sure how well it will work with 1 Amp, if it gets managed by the Aquaero 6.

I'm assuming I just need to plug the positive and negative terminals of the TEC chip into this relay?
or perhaps I should wired the TEC to a 12V molex and then use the Aquaero as a Relay for On / Off, to open and close the circuit?

If that is the case perhaps the 3 plug version might work better?
Aquacomputer Plug 3pin Plug For Relay Output (For Aquaero 5/6) Model: AQ-53080

*Control 2nd PSU On/Off*
Also I would like to use the Aquaero 6 to control a slave PSU to power my Water loop accessories like Pumps, LEDs, the Peltier chip, etc...

Can I use one of those relays listed above to use it as On/Off switch to short the Pins 15-16 ?


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AllGamer*
> 
> Alright I've officially jumped on board now
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Planning to pick up an Aquaero 6 + Passive Cooler for Aquaero 6 + Front Faceplate Black (to match my case)
> 
> *I'm trying to figure out which cable I'll need to link my 2x Aquacomputer Flow Rate Sensor to the Aquaero 6.* does anyone know?
> NVM found the cable, but is too short Aquacomputer Cable for Flow Meter, for Aquaero/Aquastream XT Ultra/Poweradjust 18cm Model: AQ-53100,
> Are there longer ones?
> 
> *Control Peltier TEC On/Off*
> ...and I'm trying to figure out how to use this Aquacomputer Aquaero 5/6 Connector 2pol. For Relay Output Model: AQ-53036
> 
> I'm planning to use it control a Peltier TEC1-12730 chip to go On/Off at pre-set Temps monitored by the Aquaero 6.
> 
> Now the description says Max 1 Amp and 12 Volt
> 
> the TEC1-12730 chip is rated Max 30 Amp, but not sure how well it will work with 1 Amp, if it gets managed by the Aquaero 6.
> 
> I'm assuming I just need to plug the positive and negative terminals of the TEC chip into this relay?
> or perhaps I should wired the TEC to a 12V molex and then use the Aquaero as a Relay for On / Off, to open and close the circuit?
> 
> If that is the case perhaps the 3 plug version might work better?
> Aquacomputer Plug 3pin Plug For Relay Output (For Aquaero 5/6) Model: AQ-53080
> 
> *Control 2nd PSU On/Off*
> Also I would like to use the Aquaero 6 to control a slave PSU to power my Water loop accessories like Pumps, LEDs, the Peltier chip, etc...
> 
> Can I use one of those relays listed above to use it as On/Off switch to short the Pins 15-16 ?


Please do not try and use that contactor to control a TEC it will burn up! It is rated at 1 amp and if you put 30 across it you are going to have burned up equipment!!! You can use the AQ contactor to control another relay that actually turns the TEC power on and off!!!


----------



## Shoggy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AllGamer*
> 
> Are there longer ones?


You can use a fan extension cable.

Quote:


> I'm assuming I just need to plug the positive and negative terminals of the TEC chip into this relay?
> or perhaps I should wired the TEC to a 12V molex and then use the Aquaero as a Relay for On / Off, to open and close the circuit?


The relay works as a switch and does not provide any power. So you have to get the power from somewhere else and the relay will just open or close the connection. Anyway, it will not work because this TEC draw waaaaaay tooooo much power and will damage your aquaero. The allowed load that can pass through the aquaero is 1A at 12V.

Quote:


> Also I would like to use the Aquaero 6 to control a slave PSU to power my Water loop accessories like Pumps, LEDs, the Peltier chip, etc...
> 
> Can I use one of those relays listed above to use it as On/Off switch to short the Pins 15-16 ?


Yes, that works since the relay is isolated so there can be no side effects because of the other PSU that powers the aquaero.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AllGamer*
> 
> Alright I've officially jumped on board now
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Planning to pick up an Aquaero 6 + Passive Cooler for Aquaero 6 + Front Faceplate Black (to match my case)
> 
> *I'm trying to figure out which cable I'll need to link my 2x Aquacomputer Flow Rate Sensor to the Aquaero 6.* does anyone know?
> NVM found the cable, but is too short Aquacomputer Cable for Flow Meter, for Aquaero/Aquastream XT Ultra/Poweradjust 18cm Model: AQ-53100,
> Are there longer ones?
> 
> *Control Peltier TEC On/Off*
> ...and I'm trying to figure out how to use this Aquacomputer Aquaero 5/6 Connector 2pol. For Relay Output Model: AQ-53036
> 
> I'm planning to use it control a Peltier TEC1-12730 chip to go On/Off at pre-set Temps monitored by the Aquaero 6.
> 
> Now the description says Max 1 Amp and 12 Volt
> 
> the TEC1-12730 chip is rated Max 30 Amp, but not sure how well it will work with 1 Amp, if it gets managed by the Aquaero 6.
> 
> I'm assuming I just need to plug the positive and negative terminals of the TEC chip into this relay?
> or perhaps I should wired the TEC to a 12V molex and then use the Aquaero as a Relay for On / Off, to open and close the circuit?
> 
> If that is the case perhaps the 3 plug version might work better?
> Aquacomputer Plug 3pin Plug For Relay Output (For Aquaero 5/6) Model: AQ-53080
> 
> *Control 2nd PSU On/Off*
> Also I would like to use the Aquaero 6 to control a slave PSU to power my Water loop accessories like Pumps, LEDs, the Peltier chip, etc...
> 
> Can I use one of those relays listed above to use it as On/Off switch to short the Pins 15-16 ?


If you're going to use a PC type slave PSU, then get a "add a psu" board. It takes a molex from the main PSU and has a relay that connects the power-on (green) wire of the 24 pin slave PSU connector to ground so it turns on with the main PSU.

You'd need a hi power capable relay, either magnetic or electronic, for the tec, that would be switched by the A6


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> Please do not try and use that contactor to control a TEC it will burn up! It is rated at 1 amp and if you put 30 across it you are going to have burned up equipment!!! You can use the AQ contactor to control another relay that actually turns the TEC power on and off!!!
> 
> Not trying to be rude but need to study some electric items as you seem to have no idea how a relay or contactor works!!!


----------



## inoran81

Honored to finally gotten Sven a.k.a. Shoggy autograph!!


















next time can you use a marker to sign on my aqualis or AMS panel









P.S.
Thanks for sending me the reminder cables that I missed out during the initial order - kudos to your service!


----------



## AllGamer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> Not trying to be rude but need to study some electric items as you seem to have no idea how a relay or contactor works!!!


No worries, no offence taken, I'm very well aware of what I said, that's why I mentioned specifically the 1A vs 30A differential.

I knew that wouldn't work and wanted to hear what alternatives are there to use some type of relay with the Aquarero 6 to remote control the On/Off of the Peltier.

On the other thread I mentioned an even easier way to control the Peltier with a Thermal On/Off switch relay, but I wanted to have more specific control using the Aquarero as it's programmable, while using the sensor is easy, it's static to a temperature range for activation Normally Open vs. Normally Close. while it does the job, I won't have any control over specific temperature I want to run it at.


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AllGamer*
> 
> No worries, no offence taken, I'm very well aware of what I said, that's why I mentioned specifically the 1A vs 30A differential.
> 
> I knew that wouldn't work and wanted to hear what alternatives are there to use some type of relay with the Aquarero 6 to remote control the On/Off of the Peltier.
> 
> On the other thread I mentioned an even easier way to control the Peltier with a Thermal On/Off switch relay, but I wanted to have more specific control using the Aquarero as it's programmable, while using the sensor is easy, it's static to a temperature range for activation Normally Open vs. Normally Close. while it does the job, I won't have any control over specific temperature I want to run it at.


You can buy 12v coil relays that are good for 40 amps and use the aq to control this!! I have a few and would send you one if you pay postage, these are made for cars


----------



## AllGamer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> You can use a fan extension cable.


Excellent, you read my mind, just exactly what I was trying to ask, without really asking it








The Aquarero 6 is going to be quite far from the flow meters, since I'll be installing them down in the S8 Pedestals area.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> The relay works as a switch and does not provide any power. So you have to get the power from somewhere else and the relay will just open or close the connection. Anyway, it will not work because this TEC draw waaaaaay tooooo much power and will damage your aquaero. The allowed load that can pass through the aquaero is 1A at 12V.


Yup, just what I suspected.
I'll need to find something that works in between, and use the Aquareo 2pin relay to control another relay or something that can handle the higher load, which then let "It" controls the TEC On/Off.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> Yes, that works since the relay is isolated so there can be no side effects because of the other PSU that powers the aquaero.


Good to hear, or I can go with what Diva suggested








Is good to have alternatives to choose from.


----------



## AllGamer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> You can buy 12v coil relays that are good for 40 amps and use the aq to control this!! I have a few and would send you one if you pay postage, these are made for cars


Thanks for the offer, I'll keep that under consideration.

I'll dig around to see what else I can use, I might end up using something completely different

I'll message you if I go this route


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *AllGamer*
> 
> Alright I've officially jumped on board now
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Planning to pick up an Aquaero 6 + Passive Cooler for Aquaero 6 + Front Faceplate Black (to match my case)
> 
> *I'm trying to figure out which cable I'll need to link my 2x Aquacomputer Flow Rate Sensor to the Aquaero 6.* does anyone know?
> NVM found the cable, but is too short Aquacomputer Cable for Flow Meter, for Aquaero/Aquastream XT Ultra/Poweradjust 18cm Model: AQ-53100,
> Are there longer ones?
> 
> *Control Peltier TEC On/Off*
> ...and I'm trying to figure out how to use this Aquacomputer Aquaero 5/6 Connector 2pol. For Relay Output Model: AQ-53036
> 
> I'm planning to use it control a Peltier TEC1-12730 chip to go On/Off at pre-set Temps monitored by the Aquaero 6.
> 
> Now the description says Max 1 Amp and 12 Volt
> 
> the TEC1-12730 chip is rated Max 30 Amp, but not sure how well it will work with 1 Amp, if it gets managed by the Aquaero 6.
> 
> I'm assuming I just need to plug the positive and negative terminals of the TEC chip into this relay?
> or perhaps I should wired the TEC to a 12V molex and then use the Aquaero as a Relay for On / Off, to open and close the circuit?
> 
> If that is the case perhaps the 3 plug version might work better?
> Aquacomputer Plug 3pin Plug For Relay Output (For Aquaero 5/6) Model: AQ-53080
> 
> *Control 2nd PSU On/Off*
> Also I would like to use the Aquaero 6 to control a slave PSU to power my Water loop accessories like Pumps, LEDs, the Peltier chip, etc...
> 
> Can I use one of those relays listed above to use it as On/Off switch to short the Pins 15-16 ?
> 
> 
> 
> Please do not try and use that contactor to control a TEC it will burn up! It is rated at 1 amp and if you put 30 across it you are going to have burned up equipment!!! You can use the AQ contactor to control another relay that actually turns the TEC power on and off!!!
Click to expand...

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *AllGamer*
> 
> No worries, no offence taken, I'm very well aware of what I said, that's why I mentioned specifically the 1A vs 30A differential.
> 
> I knew that wouldn't work and wanted to hear what alternatives are there to use some type of relay with the Aquarero 6 to remote control the On/Off of the Peltier.
> 
> On the other thread I mentioned an even easier way to control the Peltier with a Thermal On/Off switch relay, but I wanted to have more specific control using the Aquarero as it's programmable, while using the sensor is easy, it's static to a temperature range for activation Normally Open vs. Normally Close. while it does the job, I won't have any control over specific temperature I want to run it at.
> 
> 
> 
> You can buy 12v coil relays that are good for 40 amps and use the aq to control this!! I have a few and would send you one if you pay postage, these are made for cars
Click to expand...

Exactly what I was going to say. What's also cool is vote many ways you can control this, 1 the relay, 2 either of the 2 12v pwm port OR a fan header...


----------



## AllGamer

Re: *Aquacomputer Aquaero 5/6 Connector 2pol. For Relay Output Model: AQ-53036*

So, we know it's Max 1Amp and 12V

How does this relay interact with the Aquaero?

I'm basically trying to find out, if when Activated via software, will the Aquaero keep the relay Always Connected, or does it only Sends a burst and closes again ?

Like is it a switch that remains Normally Close, when the software sends the ON signal,
or the switch only does a On/Off , and remains Normally Open, until the next signal gets sent from the software.

I'm trying to match the other end to see if I need a Normally Open vs Normally Closed type of relay.

--- Edit ---

Depending if the Aquaero 2pin accessory relay is N.O. or N.C.

I could go with either this one


or this one


Well the 2nd relay with the 5 legs terminal, I can choose whichever terminal that matches the operation of the Aquaero 2pin accessory relay

Found another one that might work even better, it only needs a signal to change On/Off, it gets power from the PSU, and can control the Load (Peltier) on the heavy side of the circuit.
So I can use the Aquaero 2pin accessory relay for the signaling, and let the circuit relay do its thing.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AllGamer*
> 
> Re: *Aquacomputer Aquaero 5/6 Connector 2pol. For Relay Output Model: AQ-53036*
> 
> So, we know it's Max 1Amp and 12V
> 
> How does this relay interact with the Aquaero?


depends on you. do you wan tot use the pwm 2 pins, a fan channel or the relay to set it up, how do you want to set it up ?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AllGamer*
> 
> I'm basically trying to find out, if when Activated via software, will the Aquaero keep the relay Always Connected, or does it only Sends a burst and closes again ?


again depends on you, you can set it to activate for a sewt time, permanently, ect ( assuming you ment the relay on the aquaero )
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AllGamer*
> 
> Like is it a switch that remains Normally Close, when the software sends the ON signal,
> or the switch only does a On/Off , and remains Normally Open, until the next signal gets sent from the software.


again assuming oyu mean the relay, thee is no an dnc contacts, and it depends on how you set it up
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AllGamer*
> 
> I'm trying to match the other end to see if I need a Normally Open vs Normally Closed type of relay.


i think you have a missunderstand.

you just want a relay.

N.O. ( normally open ) means when you set it up ( wire it up ) the thing you wire it to, will be off, till the relay is activated.

N.C ( normally closed ) means when you set it up ( Wire it up ) the thing you wire will be ON till the relay is activated. at which time it will turn off.

please note, the above is just a general statement and is NOT ALWAYS true, again. they can be made ot do things in many different ways, but odds are for you they will be true -
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AllGamer*
> 
> --- Edit ---
> 
> Depending if the Aquaero 2pin accessory relay is N.O. or N.C.


there is no 2 pin relay, there is a 2 pin connector, and 2 pin pwm ports, the relay is 3 pin, ( com n.o. and n.c. )
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AllGamer*
> 
> I could go with either this one
> 
> 
> or this one
> 
> 
> Well the 2nd relay with the 5 legs terminal, I can choose whichever terminal that matches the operation of the Aquaero 2pin accessory relay
> 
> Found another one that might work even better, it only needs a signal to change On/Off, it gets power from the PSU, and can control the Load (Peltier) on the heavy side of the circuit.
> So I can use the Aquaero 2pin accessory relay for the signaling, and let the circuit relay do its thing.


just to reiterate NO/NC/spdt/dpdt ( you can google this - the aquaero has a SPDT relay ) has nothing to do with the aquaero . weather you use a fan header, pwm ( 2 pin ) port or the relay, you will be wiring it to the COIL of the relay , not the contacts ( NO and NC )

i would generally buy a SPDT relay, so you can have both if you need it

hope that helped


----------



## AllGamer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> depends on you. do you wan tot use the pwm 2 pins, a fan channel or the relay to set it up, how do you want to set it up ?
> again depends on you, you can set it to activate for a sewt time, permanently, ect ( assuming you ment the relay on the aquaero )
> again assuming oyu mean the relay, thee is no an dnc contacts, and it depends on how you set it up
> i think you have a missunderstand.
> 
> you just want a relay.
> 
> N.O. ( normally open ) means when you set it up ( wire it up ) the thing you wire it to, will be off, till the relay is activated.
> 
> N.C ( normally closed ) means when you set it up ( Wire it up ) the thing you wire will be ON till the relay is activated. at which time it will turn off.
> 
> please note, the above is just a general statement and is NOT ALWAYS true, again. they can be made ot do things in many different ways, but odds are for you they will be true -
> there is no 2 pin relay, there is a 2 pin connector, and 2 pin pwm ports, the relay is 3 pin, ( com n.o. and n.c. )
> just to reiterate NO/NC/spdt/dpdt ( you can google this - the aquaero has a SPDT relay ) has nothing to do with the aquaero . weather you use a fan header, pwm ( 2 pin ) port or the relay, you will be wiring it to the COIL of the relay , not the contacts ( NO and NC )
> 
> i would generally buy a SPDT relay, so you can have both if you need it
> 
> hope that helped


Yup, that's what I was trying to figure out, so basically the 2pin relay is not really a relay, but just a 2pin connector, that was the misunderstanding,
the actual relaying from what I understood of what you said seems to be dependable on the software programation in the Aquarero.

That was the missing piece of the information that I didn't know, how the 2pin connector actually interacted with the Aquarero, now that I have a know it actually works, makes choosing the remainder part a lot easier.


----------



## fast_fate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AllGamer*
> 
> Yup, that's what I was trying to figure out, so basically the 2pin relay is not really a relay, but just a 2pin connector, that was the misunderstanding,
> the actual relaying from what I understood of what you said seems to be dependable on the software programation in the Aquarero.
> 
> That was the missing piece of the information that I didn't know, how the 2pin connector actually interacted with the Aquarero, now that I have a know it actually works, makes choosing the remainder part a lot easier.


Maybe consider controlling the peltier completely independent of the Aquaero with something like a DC 12V 30A Temperature Controller Digital LCD Thermostat Regulator ?

EDIT: if you want to see a neat way to control the secondary PSU have a look in my *S*_alive_*8* build log where 2nd PSU discussion starts at around Post # 168









Since the vid, it was refined and now only need the relay (no "add 2 PSU required") so the wire going through the 24 pin would go straight from PSU to the relay.


----------



## AllGamer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fast_fate*
> 
> Maybe consider controlling the peltier completely independent of the Aquaero with something like a DC 12V 30A Temperature Controller Digital LCD Thermostat Regulator ?
> 
> EDIT: if you want to see a neat way to control the secondary PSU have a look in my *S*_alive_*8* build log where 2nd PSU discussion starts at around Post # 168
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Since the vid, it was refined and now only need the relay (no "add 2 PSU required") so the wire going through the 24 pin would go straight from PSU to the relay.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


bahhh.... too late I already picked up the add2PSU thing after Diva mentioned it. LOL









I see the wiring from your photo, very simple and clean, but still quite a bit of wiring to tuck away.

Before the Add2PSU suggestion, my original idea was to use add an extra Vandal switch, latching type to simply short the pins 15+16 in the 2nd PSU, a super low tech way to independently control the 2nd PSU.

but I also liked the idea of hit 1 button to turn on Both

I might actually end up going for the original plan, as I can see times when I want to run the loop, while the PC is off

or I could possibly use both method, since if the Main PSU is off, there wouldn't be any power from the molex driving the relay on the Add2PSU adapter.

It'll make it very similar to how you have it on the video.

and Thanks! for that Thermostat regulator suggestion, it's sounds like a very good alternative and it makes everything a lot simpler.


----------



## fast_fate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AllGamer*
> 
> bahhh.... too late I already picked up the add2PSU thing after Diva mentioned it. LOL
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I see the wiring from your photo, very simple and clean, but still quite a bit of wiring to tuck away.
> 
> Before the Add2PSU suggestion, my original idea was to use add an extra Vandal switch, latching type to simply short the pins 15+16 in the 2nd PSU, a super low tech way to independently control the 2nd PSU.
> 
> but I also liked the idea of hit 1 button to turn on Both
> 
> I might actually end up going for the original plan, as I can see times when I want to run the loop, while the PC is off
> 
> or I could possibly use both method, since if the Main PSU is off, there wouldn't be any power from the molex driving the relay on the Add2PSU adapter.
> 
> It'll make it very similar to how you have it on the video.
> 
> and Thanks! for that Thermostat regulator suggestion, it's sounds like a very good alternative and it makes everything a lot simpler.


No probs if you've already ordered the add2PSU, which really is just a relay but takes up more space








I had an add2PSU but this is so m,uch simpler nad gives more options IMHO.

With the switch in place the way I have wired up the relay you can......
run the secondary PSU when the primary PSU is turned off so no power goes to MB, GPU or anything else connected it the primary, so it's not just switching the secondary on at same time as the primary which is all the add2 can do.
with the primary off and the secondary on, the secondary can be turned on and off with the switch placed inline, great for testing and commissioning.
If secondary is off (via it's inline switch) when the primary (system) is started, the secondary automatically switches on, (failsafe to turn pump/s and fans on which would be connected the the secondary in most instances)

Have fun with it all









*EDIT:* I didn't think it was too much wiring involved, less than the add2 option I reckon








Here's my relay installed.


----------



## Anateus

Just wanted to say big thanks to Diva for her little D5 PWM mod guide. I had my EK D5 pwm connected to Aquaero 6 and it would just run at ~30%. Now its blasting water at full speed and I no longer have problems with some annoying air pockets. I have yet to see if its controllable, though.


----------



## WiLd FyeR

Just noticed that the AquaSuite app is not reading the temp from OHM. When I go setup the virtual temp, I'm not able to select (OHM) source. Is AquaSuite the issue or OHM?


----------



## Shoggy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiLd FyeR*
> 
> Just noticed that the AquaSuite app is not reading the temp from OHM. When I go setup the virtual temp, I'm not able to select (OHM) source. Is AquaSuite the issue or OHM?


None of them. It is very likely Windows









Close the aquasuite and all monitoring tools. Press Windows-Key + R and enter wbemtest. This will start a tool for the Windows WMI interface. Click connect, enter root as namespace and connect again. Now click enum instances and enter __Namespace (two underlines) as name. The next window will show you a list of some instances that have been created in the past. One of them will have Open Hardware Monitor in its name. Select this one and delete it. Afterwards try again if OHM works correctly now.

It is all in German but might give you an idea of what you are looking for in this tool:


----------



## WiLd FyeR

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> None of them. It is very likely Windows
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Close the aquasuite and all monitoring tools. Press Windows-Key + R and enter wbemtest. This will start a tool for the Windows WMI interface. Click connect, enter root as namespace and connect again. Now click enum instances and enter __Namespace (two underlines) as name. The next window will show you a list of some instances that have been created in the past. One of them will have Open Hardware Monitor in its name. Select this one and delete it. Afterwards try again if OHM works correctly now.
> 
> It is all in German but might give you an idea of what you are looking for in this tool:


Thanks REP+, will give it a try after work.


----------



## Ranma13

I had the same issue too with OHM no longer providing data to Aquasuite, and I can confirm that Shoggy's fix works. The Windows 10 Anniversary Update seems to have broken it.


----------



## Revan654

Quick Question is their a way to use Thermaltake Riing fans with Aquacomputer aquaero? Meaning Can I use TT Riing supplied Controller and also see the fan Speed? I plugged it in the fan does run. The controller to change the LED does not work and aquaero list the fan at running at 0 rpm. I plugged my Corsair 120 ML Pro and they read the fans fine.

Is the issue the controller box?


----------



## AllGamer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> Quick Question is their a way to use Thermaltake Riing fans with Aquacomputer aquaero? Meaning Can I use TT Riing supplied Controller and also see the fan Speed? I plugged it in the fan does run. The controller to change the LED does not work and aquaero list the fan at running at 0 rpm. I plugged my Corsair 120 ML Pro and they read the fans fine.
> 
> Is the issue the controller box?


You'll have a better luck, if you plug the fans directly to the Aquarero, skipping the TT box, then you should be able to see proper fan speeds and PWM

To control the LED color, you'll need to use some other sort of adapter, to connect it to the Aquarero RBG port.

Even I am trying to figure the letter portion out, to see how to get there, as I'd rather use the Aquarero to control all my 30~40 fans, instead of having to deal with all those little boxes from TT.


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AllGamer*
> 
> You'll have a better luck, if you plug the fans directly to the Aquarero, skipping the TT box, then you should be able to see proper fan speeds and PWM
> 
> To control the LED color, you'll need to use some other sort of adapter, to connect it to the Aquarero RBG port.
> 
> Even I am trying to figure the letter portion out, to see how to get there, as I'd rather use the Aquarero to control all my 30~40 fans, instead of having to deal with all those little boxes from TT.


TT Riing are five pin.

*Edit* It looks like the box already died. No wonder everyone complains about the controller constantly dying. I even plugged it directly into my motherboard nothing.

I might try to grab some of the Premium editions since those are all digital no button pressing.


----------



## Trestles126

Anyone hook up a a6 to a Evga z97 stinger wifi motherboard the manual is super vague with no reference to the onboard usb. I think I know what one it is but not 100 percent sure


----------



## ruffhi

Is there a way of turning the screen off? The screen on the aquaero unit.


----------



## Costas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ruffhi*
> 
> Is there a way of turning the screen off? The screen on the aquaero unit.


There is no on/off function that I am aware of, however you can wind down the backlight brightness to nothing so it looks like its off.

You can even set the LEDs to zero brightness as well effectively switching them off if required.

You can also setup two different settings for when active and another when in standby mode.


----------



## ruffhi

excellent ... got it. Thanks.

+REP


----------



## WiLd FyeR

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> None of them. It is very likely Windows
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Close the aquasuite and all monitoring tools. Press Windows-Key + R and enter wbemtest. This will start a tool for the Windows WMI interface. Click connect, enter root as namespace and connect again. Now click enum instances and enter __Namespace (two underlines) as name. The next window will show you a list of some instances that have been created in the past. One of them will have Open Hardware Monitor in its name. Select this one and delete it. Afterwards try again if OHM works correctly now.
> 
> It is all in German but might give you an idea of what you are looking for in this tool:


Trying to delete but Access is denied


----------



## ruffhi

run as admin?


----------



## WiLd FyeR

Ahh ya, you right.


----------



## ruffhi

find the 'wbemtest' executable and right click it ... then select 'run as admin'


----------



## InfoSeeker

Mine (Win10) is located in "C:\Windows\System32\wbem\wbemtest.exe"


----------



## Revan654

Quick Question if I have two aquacomputer d5 pump mechanics with usb and aquabus interface. Is it possible to control both pumps with one aquaero 6 XT?


----------



## Mega Man

Yes you can control up to 4 MPS devices. The pump is a MPS device


----------



## Trestles126

Been awhile since I set up a a6 I have searched and haven't found a answer. I have found a lot of questions regarding open hardware disappearing once set up for software sensors but my problem is it's not showing up on the lists of software when u set it up it's blank with no options.

I remember it being simple but can't figure it out this time around


----------



## InfoSeeker

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> Quick Question if I have two aquacomputer d5 pump mechanics with usb and aquabus interface. Is it possible to control both pumps with one aquaero 6 XT?


As Mega said, and if you plan to use the aquabus. you will have to adjust the aquabus address on one pump using the USB connection first. Both pumps will have the factory default address of 12, one must be changed to 13 or 14 or 15.

Edit: to control the pumps from the aquaero using aquabus, you will also need to set aquabus as the primary communication channel for both pumps.


----------



## InfoSeeker

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Trestles126*
> 
> Been awhile since I set up a a6 I have searched and haven't found a answer. I have found a lot of questions regarding open hardware disappearing once set up for software sensors but my problem is it's not showing up on the lists of software when u set it up it's blank with no options.
> 
> I remember it being simple but can't figure it out this time around


See Shoggy's post, hopefully that helps.


----------



## Bogga

Curious how you guys have setup the aquaero on your desktops. This is what I have done so far, but some inspiration and tips would be welcome


----------



## Ranma13

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> Yes you can control up to 4 MPS devices. The pump is a MPS device


More specifically, the Aquabus is a I2C bus. Although I2C supports up to 127 devices, it's limited by the processing power of the microcontroller. In this case, the Aquaero supports up to 4 devices. Each I2C device needs its own unique address so that the master device (the Aquaero) can identify which slave device it's communicating with. This is why you need to change the address from the default of 12 to something else if you're using more than one device. The I2C address is not 'auto configurable' like USB is, so you need to set it first by connecting your device directly to USB so that the new bus address is written directly into the firmware.


----------



## InfoSeeker

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ranma13*
> 
> More specifically, the Aquabus is a I2C bus. Although I2C supports up to 127 devices, it's limited by the processing power of the microcontroller. In this case, the Aquaero supports up to 4 devices. Each I2C device needs its own unique address so that the master device (the Aquaero) can identify which slave device it's communicating with. This is why you need to change the address from the default of 12 to something else if you're using more than one device. The I2C address is not 'auto configurable' like USB is, so you need to set it first by connecting your device directly to USB so that the new bus address is written directly into the firmware.


Most interesting, but the aquaero aquabus actually supports more than 4 devices.
The table below, snipped from the aquaero manual, lists the devices supported.
The list is outdated (tubemeter eol), but is valid for the most part.


----------



## WiLd FyeR

When I try to select open on "Start up" OHM crashes. Any tips on how to fix it?


----------



## InfoSeeker

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiLd FyeR*
> 
> When I try to select open on "Start up" OHM crashes. Any tips on how to fix it?


My personal suggestion would be to move to HWiNFO.
OHM's last update was Dec 2014, HWiNFO's last update was 5 days ago.
And HWiNFO is much more extensive in it's monitoring/reporting.
AND HWiNFO is also FREE..


----------



## GTXJackBauer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *InfoSeeker*
> 
> My personal suggestion would be to move to HWiNFO.
> OHM's last update was Dec 2014, HWiNFO's last update was 5 days ago.
> And HWiNFO is much more extensive in it's monitoring/reporting.
> AND HWiNFO is also FREE..


This. I haven't had any issues what so ever.


----------



## Trestles126

Tried this and when I hit delete it says access denied
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiLd FyeR*
> 
> Thanks REP+, will give it a try after work.


----------



## SHNS0

Hey, I'd have a few question for the pros









- Is there a way to expand the pwm fan channels for a single Aquaero?

- Can the Aquaero connected to the motherboard manage also the pwm fans that are connected to the latter?

- Does it easily accept and control fans when you plug only rpm and pwm wires while having power going directly from the PSU, or does it need a load or at least the grounding there?

- Can it eventually adjust for fans requiring different duty cycles and/or "inverted" pwm?

Thanks!!


----------



## Ranma13

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *InfoSeeker*
> 
> Most interesting, but the aquaero aquabus actually supports more than 4 devices.
> The table below, snipped from the aquaero manual, lists the devices supported.


What I meant was "support up to 4 simultaneous devices"







. You can see it in the snippet you posted, the very right column.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *InfoSeeker*
> 
> My personal suggestion would be to move to HWiNFO.
> OHM's last update was Dec 2014, HWiNFO's last update was 5 days ago.


The official binary release for OHM was December 2014, but the project is still actively maintained at https://github.com/openhardwaremonitor/openhardwaremonitor. They keep it fairly up to date, but requires that you be able to build it from source using Visual Studio. I haven't found anybody running nightly builds for it.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SHNS0*
> 
> Hey, I'd have a few question for the pros
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> - Is there a way to expand the pwm fan channels for a single Aquaero?


You can use a splitter for any of the 4 fan headers, but any fan hooked up to the splitter will be controlled as a group (a single fan setting that gets applied to all the fans). If you want, say, 5 PWM fan controls, that's not possible.

Quote:


> - Can the Aquaero connected to the motherboard manage also the pwm fans that are connected to the latter?


No, the fans must be connected to the Aquaero. The Aquaero cannot control fans that are connected to the motherboard. You will likely want to hook up the fans to the Aquaero anyway, because through the motherboard you're usually restricted to controlling the fans only based on the CPU temp. The Aquaero can control the fans based on any of its sensors. You can feed the Aquaero 'software sensors', like your CPU temp and GPU temp from OpenHardwareMonitor, HWInfo, or AIDA64, and control the fans based off of those temps, though you would only be able to get those temps after the system starts up.

Quote:


> - Does it easily accept and control fans when you plug only rpm and pwm wires while having power going directly from the PSU, or does it need a load or at least the grounding there?


It's possible to control the fans by only plugging in the RPM and PWM wires, while having the fan power connected directly to the PSU. However, if you're trying to minimize the load on the Aquaero, know that the 4 channels can handle 30W each. This video shows an Aquaero 6 having no problems controlling 40 fans and 2 pumps:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?list=UUgfhtVdModYnnBj0VbXagbQ&v=DPQaMowIrmU

The Aquaero takes a Molex connector on its back, so it can provide quite a bit of power. Also, the Aquaero has rheostats with built-in thermal sensors (called 'Fan amplifiers' by Aquacomputer). If you're using PWM fans you don't need to be concerned about them, but if you're voltage controlling the fans, the lower the fan speed, the hotter these rheostats will get. Once they reach 100 C, the Aquaero will automatically run the fans at 100% until the rheostats cool down. You'd need quite a few non-PWM fans hooked up for this to happen though.

Quote:


> - Can it eventually adjust for fans requiring different duty cycles and/or "inverted" pwm?


Yes, you can set a different duty cycle for each of the 4 fan headers. For PWM, you can also set the number of pulses per rotation, which acts as a divider for the RPM. There's also a "start boost" setting which is only useful for voltage-controlled fans. It will run the fans at a certain speed for a certain number of seconds on startup before switching back to the standard configuration. This is useful for fans that need a higher starting voltage to overcome static friction. I'm not sure what inverted PWM is though, first time I've heard that term used.


----------



## InfoSeeker

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ranma13*
> 
> What I meant was "support up to 4 simultaneous devices"
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . You can see it in the snippet you posted, the very right column.


Actually, if you count the bus addresses listed, there are 17, which I believe means the aquaero is able of communicating with 17 devices total.
The tubemeter is eol, but I think that address was reassigned... farbwerk maybe?
There are only 4 addresses designated for MPS devices, so there is a limit of four there. (now I'm wondering what the MPS acronym stands for).

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ranma13*
> 
> The official binary release for OHM was December 2014, but the project is still actively maintained at https://github.com/openhardwaremonitor/openhardwaremonitor. They keep it fairly up to date, but requires that you be able to build it from source using Visual Studio. I haven't found anybody running nightly builds for it.


Indeed, but I was addressing the comment more to the user who wants a monitoring/reporting program that interfaces with aquasuite and doesn't require programing knowledge to keep current. I see more question from OHM users than from HWiNFO users on these boards.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Trestles126*
> 
> Been awhile since I set up a a6 I have searched and haven't found a answer. I have found a lot of questions regarding open hardware disappearing once set up for software sensors but my problem is it's not showing up on the lists of software when u set it up it's blank with no options.
> 
> I remember it being simple but can't figure it out this time around


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiLd FyeR*
> 
> When I try to select open on "Start up" OHM crashes. Any tips on how to fix it?


1 delete ohm- sorry but had not been good for a long time and had caused alot of issues for a while as well
2 download hwinfo64
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SHNS0*
> 
> Hey, I'd have a few question for the pros
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> - Is there a way to expand the pwm fan channels for a single Aquaero?
> 
> - Can the Aquaero connected to the motherboard manage also the pwm fans that are connected to the latter?
> 
> - Does it easily accept and control fans when you plug only rpm and pwm wires while having power going directly from the PSU, or does it need a load or at least the grounding there?
> 
> - Can it eventually adjust for fans requiring different duty cycles and/or "inverted" pwm?
> 
> Thanks!!


1 no not currently sorry. Hoping they Change but no idea if they will

2 no

3 yes

4 no idea but I don't think so. (The above poster was talking about flow devices I think)


----------



## Trestles126

Thanks that's what I finally did


----------



## Shoggy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *InfoSeeker*
> 
> now I'm wondering what the MPS acronym stands for


multi purpose sensor


----------



## SHNS0

Thanks for the replies guys, wont quotw your posts otherwise it gets uselessly long









It's a shame for the pwm channels. With all the power and functionality the Aquaero has you could have amazing airflow setups with custom curves for everything. Unfortunately my bios is crap and speedfan is not really reliable for automatization based on temps so I'll have to stick to having only 4 channels. Still not bad.

I know that the Aquaero can handle up to 30W per channel, but

1) I don't like placing unnecessary loads on components, and can build cables easily

2) I have a full setup of Deltas, currently using 4x22W beasts in a single channel and if the new model I ordered is good I might go to having 8x 60W fans in my system. Heck i'll need multiple 8-pins for these suckers, plugging this in a molex 4 pin will prpbaby start a nuclear meltdown


----------



## WiLd FyeR

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *InfoSeeker*
> 
> My personal suggestion would be to move to HWiNFO.
> OHM's last update was Dec 2014, HWiNFO's last update was 5 days ago.
> And HWiNFO is much more extensive in it's monitoring/reporting.
> AND HWiNFO is also FREE..


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GTXJackBauer*
> 
> This. I haven't had any issues what so ever.


Went ahead and downloaded HWINFO. So far so good. Thanks REP+


----------



## GTXJackBauer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SHNS0*
> 
> Thanks for the replies guys, wont quotw your posts otherwise it gets uselessly long
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's a shame for the pwm channels. With all the power and functionality the Aquaero has you could have amazing airflow setups with custom curves for everything. Unfortunately my bios is crap and speedfan is not really reliable for automatization based on temps so I'll have to stick to having only 4 channels. Still not bad.
> 
> I know that the Aquaero can handle up to 30W per channel, but
> 
> 1) I don't like placing unnecessary loads on components, and can build cables easily
> 
> 2) I have a full setup of Deltas, currently using 4x22W beasts in a single channel and if the new model I ordered is good I might go to having 8x 60W fans in my system. Heck i'll need multiple 8-pins for these suckers, plugging this in a molex 4 pin will prpbaby start a nuclear meltdown


I think you completely misunderstood on how this works. Everything you said can happen, you just have to be within spec. There are ways to make this work. If the fans are too powerful, a fan hub might work but those are limited too against very power fans. A connection straight to the PSU for power with the signal of PWM and a single tach from the bunch to the Aquaero will work. You could possibly chain all or a certain amount of fans to one channel with their PWM signal and only one tach. Only way I can think of this not working is if all the fans are voltage controlled and not PWM.


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GTXJackBauer*
> 
> I think you completely misunderstood on how this works. Everything you said can happen, you just have to be within spec. There are ways to make this work. If the fans are too powerful, a fan hub might work but those are limited too against very power fans. A connection straight to the PSU for power with the signal of PWM and a single tach from the bunch to the Aquaero will work. You could possibly chain all or a certain amount of fans to one channel with their PWM signal and only one tach. Only way I can think of this not working is if all the fans are voltage controlled and not PWM.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SHNS0*
> 
> Thanks for the replies guys, wont quotw your posts otherwise it gets uselessly long
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's a shame for the pwm channels. With all the power and functionality the Aquaero has you could have amazing airflow setups with custom curves for everything. Unfortunately my bios is crap and speedfan is not really reliable for automatization based on temps so I'll have to stick to having only 4 channels. Still not bad.
> 
> I know that the Aquaero can handle up to 30W per channel, but
> 
> 1) I don't like placing unnecessary loads on components, and can build cables easily
> 
> 2) I have a full setup of Deltas, currently using 4x22W beasts in a single channel and if the new model I ordered is good I might go to having 8x 60W fans in my system. Heck i'll need multiple 8-pins for these suckers, plugging this in a molex 4 pin will prpbaby start a nuclear meltdown


You can also add power adjust to voltage control some fans!!???


----------



## GTXJackBauer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> You can also add power adjust to voltage control some fans


This too.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

How do you work this thing?



Join in on the buildlog

TCO


----------



## DerComissar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> How do you work this thing?
> 
> 
> 
> Join in on the buildlog
> 
> TCO


Lol!









Not laughing at you TCO, I'll be asking the same question when I finally get mine installed.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DerComissar*
> 
> Lol!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Not laughing at you TCO, I'll be asking the same question when I finally get mine installed.


I am glad you found it funny. I do too. I am asking because I know I am going to tinker with it, but will need help with the software down the line. Lol.

TCO


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *DerComissar*
> 
> Lol!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Not laughing at you TCO, I'll be asking the same question when I finally get mine installed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I am glad you found it funny. I do too. I am asking because I know I am going to tinker with it, but will need help with the software down the line. Lol.
> 
> TCO
Click to expand...

The more you tell us about how you want to use it and what you have and want to control, the better the advise that you will get.

Some of these guys here are absolute wizards when it comes to Aquaeros.

Often there is more than just 1 way to make something happen with the A6, and knowing the details of the installation and expectations lets the guys come up with the best way for how you have yours setup.

To get you started,

You'll need a USB 2 connection to the mobo, some mitx don't have any on board, so you may need a cable to pass thru a PCIe slot cover and plug in to a rear USB2.


----------



## DerComissar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> The more you tell us about how you want to use it and what you have and want to control, the better the advise that you will get.
> 
> Some of these guys *and gals* here are absolute wizards when it comes to Aquaeros.
> 
> Often there is more than just 1 way to make something happen with the A6, and knowing the details of the installation and expectations lets the guys *and gals* come up with the best way for how you have yours setup.
> 
> To get you started,
> 
> You'll need a USB 2 connection to the mobo, some mitx don't have any on board, so you may need a cable to pass thru a PCIe slot cover and plug in to a rear USB2.


Fixed that for you!


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> The more you tell us about how you want to use it and what you have and want to control,
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> the better the advise that you will get.
> 
> Some of these guys here are absolute wizards when it comes to Aquaeros.
> 
> Often there is more than just 1 way to make something happen with the A6, and knowing the details of the installation and expectations lets the guys come up with the best way for how you have yours setup.
> 
> To get you started,
> 
> 
> 
> You'll need a USB 2 connection to the mobo, some mitx don't have any on board, so you may need a cable to pass thru a PCIe slot cover and plug in to a rear USB2.


I ever tell you how happy it makes me when you talk dirty to me Diva?









TCO


----------



## zerophase

Does the Farbwerk work with the CableMode Widebeam LEDs, without their kit? Widebeam LED kit

If possible I'd prefer to just pick the LEDs, and not their actual kit.


----------



## Shoggy

Looks like normal RGB LED strips to me. The more interesting question is if they use the same pin layout as the farbwerk.


----------



## Bogga

I bought two pwm-extensions instead of that 2-1 splitter that I previously used... but I still get these strange readings. Aquaero says the fans are revving like crazy when they arent?

4 EK Vardar fans... two are connected straight to the splitty9 and two are connected with pwm extensions. They go to the splitty9 which then goes to the aquaero...

The top three fans are all connected with a 3-1 splitter and straight to the aquaero, they show the correct rpms. Could it be a faulty splitty9?


----------



## InfoSeeker

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bogga*
> 
> I bought two pwm-extensions instead of that 2-1 splitter that I previously used... but I still get these strange readings. Aquaero says the fans are revving like crazy when they arent?
> 
> 4 EK Vardar fans... two are connected straight to the splitty9 and two are connected with pwm extensions. They go to the splitty9 which then goes to the aquaero...
> 
> The top three fans are all connected with a 3-1 splitter and straight to the aquaero, they show the correct rpms. Could it be a faulty splitty9?
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Is the aquabus/PWM jumper set correctly?
Is one of the fans connected to the port marked RPM?


----------



## Bogga

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *InfoSeeker*
> 
> Is the aquabus/PWM jumper set correctly?
> Is one of the fans connected to the port marked RPM?


The jumper is set correct... but I have to double check the rpm thingie!


----------



## Bogga

It was the jumper... I had misinterpreted it. Feel ashamed now









Now I have another question though









I've bought a flow/temp-sensor, but I might be doing dual loops and if I was to buy another one... could I tell flow from both loops then? My eyes tells me there's only one place on the aquaero for flow.


----------



## InfoSeeker

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bogga*
> 
> It was the jumper... I had misinterpreted it. Feel ashamed now
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I have another question though
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've bought a flow/temp-sensor, but I might be doing dual loops and if I was to buy another one... could I tell flow from both loops then? My eyes tells me there's only one place on the aquaero for flow.


Can you link to the flow sensor you have? How it connects to the aquaero is type dependent.


----------



## Shoggy

You can use the same type (3-pin) on fan channel 1 if you change its configuration to act as a second flow port. Keep in mind that you can not use this channel for fans anymore if you go this way.

Otherwise get the high flow sensor with USB/aquabus. This one can be connected to the aquabus port. Same for the mps flow series.


----------



## zerophase

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> Looks like normal RGB LED strips to me. The more interesting question is if they use the same pin layout as the farbwerk.


So the pin out is +,B,R,G. Is that correct for the Farbwerk? It also comes with an adapter for Asus boards.


----------



## Shoggy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zerophase*
> 
> So the pin out is +,B,R,G. Is that correct for the Farbwerk?


Yes, farbwerk uses the same.


----------



## Bogga

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *InfoSeeker*
> 
> Can you link to the flow sensor you have? How it connects to the aquaero is type dependent.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> You can use the same type (3-pin) on fan channel 1 if you change its configuration to act as a second flow port. Keep in mind that you can not use this channel for fans anymore if you go this way.
> 
> Otherwise get the high flow sensor with USB/aquabus. This one can be connected to the aquabus port. Same for the mps flow series.


This is the one I ordered

http://shop.aquacomputer.de/product_info.php?language=en&products_id=2897

Sorry if these are silly questions... but I just want to be sure before I spend another 100$. All 4 fan channels will be "occupied" by other stuff.


----------



## Shoggy

That sensor is OK. It can be connected via aquabus. If you want to get rid off the USB cable of this sensor, you will need a 4-pin aquabus cable.


----------



## InfoSeeker

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bogga*
> 
> This is the one I ordered
> 
> http://shop.aquacomputer.de/product_info.php?language=en&products_id=2897
> 
> Sorry if these are silly questions... but I just want to be sure before I spend another 100$. All 4 fan channels will be "occupied" by other stuff.


Curious which pumps you are looking at?


----------



## Bogga

I've got two of these... https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-xres-140-revo-d5-pwm-incl-pump

Don't tell me I've bought something that will be unusable for me?


----------



## AllGamer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bogga*
> 
> I've got two of these... https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-xres-140-revo-d5-pwm-incl-pump
> 
> Don't tell me I've bought something that will be unusable for me?


How many items are you planning to hook-up to the Aquaero computer directly?

There are expansions attachments you can use to hook-up other items that does not need to be attached directly to the Aquacomputer panel.


----------



## Bogga

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AllGamer*
> 
> How many items are you planning to hook-up to the Aquaero computer directly?
> 
> There are expansions attachments you can use to hook-up other items that does not need to be attached directly to the Aquacomputer panel.


Two pumps to two of the fan on the aquaero. Four fans connected to a splitty9 to the third fan and three fans to a 3-1-splitter to the fourth fan. Then if possible two of the previous mentioned flow and temp sensors


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AllGamer*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Bogga*
> 
> I've got two of these... https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-xres-140-revo-d5-pwm-incl-pump
> 
> Don't tell me I've bought something that will be unusable for me?
> 
> 
> 
> How many items are you planning to hook-up to the Aquaero computer directly?
> 
> There are expansions attachments you can use to hook-up other items that does not need to be attached directly to the Aquacomputer panel.
Click to expand...

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bogga*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *AllGamer*
> 
> How many items are you planning to hook-up to the Aquaero computer directly?
> 
> There are expansions attachments you can use to hook-up other items that does not need to be attached directly to the Aquacomputer panel.
> 
> 
> 
> Two pumps to two of the fan on the aquaero. Four fans connected to a splitty9 to the third fan and three fans to a 3-1-splitter to the fourth fan. Then if possible two of the previous mentioned flow and temp sensors
Click to expand...

Or . . . Since pumps are pretty much set and forget once the system is filled and bled . .

Just connect the pumps to a splitter cable like Swiftech has for the dual 35X's, and connect them to the mobo to save your A6's fan channels


----------



## Kenjiwing

Hey guys I have a aquaero 5 XT and I am looking at getting a D5 pump. Is the aquabus still worth getting or should I look at a EK d5? Also what does the aquabus actually buy me hooking it into my aquaero?


----------



## Bogga

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Or . . . Since pumps are pretty much set and forget once the system is filled and bled . .
> 
> Just connect the pumps to a splitter cable like Swiftech has for the dual 35X's, and connect them to the mobo to save your A6's fan channels


Perhaps... I'm probably gonna set them at 50% constantly anyway


----------



## Jflisk

evening all - My Koolance flow sensor just went the way of the DODO . What Flows Sensors From AQUA are still usable with the LT5 Aquaero. Thank you all in Advance


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jflisk*
> 
> evening all - My Koolance flow sensor just went the way of the DODO . What Flows Sensors From AQUA are still usable with the LT5 Aquaero. Thank you all in Advance


All of them


----------



## Jflisk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> All of them


I thought there was one they took out of support of the software , I was thinking Aquacomputer Flow Rate Sensor MPS Flow 400. Thanks


----------



## Shoggy

As seross69 said: all of our flow sensors are compatible.

Why should we stop support for a specific sensor from a series that uses the same controller board for all of them - makes no sense at all ;-)


----------



## Jflisk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> As seross69 said: all of our flow sensors are compatible.
> 
> Why should we stop support for a specific sensor from a series that uses the same controller board for all of them - makes no sense at all ;-)


Shoggy,
Never mind I was thinking tube meter and the multiswitch and not flow sensor. Thanks


----------



## phatDUB

Good day everyone.

I have an Aquaero 5 XT for a year now and still sitting in a box. now im planning to add it into my current build.

upon checking there is vast materials online about the Aquaero and there are so many information from it. still having a hard time understanding it in layman point of view

I know there is possibilities but cant seem to find proper documentation of it.

is there any simpler way on setting this by hardware connection like the list below:

- Planning for Two loops (1 for GPU and 1 for Proc/Mobo)
- Using Two D5 Pumps (With Aquabus or Without [Standard MCP655 without Vario])
- Using Two Flow Sensors
- Using Two Tube Sensor
- Using Sensor for each Radiators and other important points within the Case (physically or in virtually)
- Using Relay for Alarms
- Using Two RGB Led to Show System Status (by color) of the System being reported to the Aquaero 5 XT
- Without adding Aquabus is there any possibilities to run them from AQ 5XT only if not is the AQ 6XT can handle them all.

If there are some AquaComputer rep here would love to have a chat directly for some Technical Expertise advice









Thank you in advance.

phatDUB


----------



## saintruski

Is there a way to set the aquaero 6 to shut the computer down in case of pump failure. I know it has an alarm but my computer runs pretty much 24/7 and im not around 24/7, so is there a kill switch, or proper shutdown in failure events? I use the Aquacomputer D5 pump with the aquabus back panel and all but i cant find any way to do this.


----------



## BelowAverageIQ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *saintruski*
> 
> Is there a way to set the aquaero 6 to shut the computer down in case of pump failure. I know it has an alarm but my computer runs pretty much 24/7 and im not around 24/7, so is there a kill switch, or proper shutdown in failure events? I use the Aquacomputer D5 pump with the aquabus back panel and all but i cant find any way to do this.


From my limited reading you need a relay, that will be given a signal to open up and remove power. Not 100% sure though.


----------



## geox19

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *saintruski*
> 
> Is there a way to set the aquaero 6 to shut the computer down in case of pump failure. I know it has an alarm but my computer runs pretty much 24/7 and im not around 24/7, so is there a kill switch, or proper shutdown in failure events? I use the Aquacomputer D5 pump with the aquabus back panel and all but i cant find any way to do this.


I think you'll find what your looking for in alarm actions and alarm configurations. Under Alarm Actions go to emergency shutdown and pick Keyboard: Power key Your computer should shutdown after you setup your alarms. I don't use the Aquacomputer D5 I have my PC shutdown according to temperatures

Here's some screenshots hope this helps.


----------



## saintruski

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geox19*
> 
> I think you'll find what your looking for in alarm actions and alarm configurations. Under Alarm Actions go to emergency shutdown and pick Keyboard: Power key Your computer should shutdown after you setup your alarms. I don't use the Aquacomputer D5 I have my PC shutdown according to temperatures


did you need to wire up a relay?


----------



## geox19

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *saintruski*
> 
> did you need to wire up a relay?


Nope no relay. just set the emergency shutdown to keyboard power button. Then I think you'll be able to add your pump in the Alarm configuration settings. I couldn't really tell because I don't have the aquacomputer D5. You can test to see if your pc shuts down just lower the Temps or if you get the pump settings set up pull the plug on the pump it should shutdown. Also make sure you have Aquasuite startup with windows


----------



## InfoSeeker

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *saintruski*
> 
> Is there a way to set the aquaero 6 to shut the computer down in case of pump failure. I know it has an alarm but my computer runs pretty much 24/7 and im not around 24/7, so is there a kill switch, or proper shutdown in failure events? I use the Aquacomputer D5 pump with the aquabus back panel and all but i cant find any way to do this.


The simplest way, from my point of view, is to connect a 3 pin f/f fan cable between the aq6 RPM port and your mobo CPU fan header.
Then set your mobo BIOS to shut down on CPU fan failure.

The RPM port sends a fake RPM to the CPU fan header under normal conditions.
When the alarm comes up, the RPM will go to zero, and the bios will shutdown the mobo.

In aquasuite, under the D5 pump tab (USB connected), activate and configure the speed signal.
When the pump's RPM falls outside your parameters the alarm sets.

In the case of the aquasuite snippet below, I have a D5 attached by USB, but no power (spare pump).
Since the pump is not spinning the alarm is set (red) and the RPM signal going out would be zero.

RPM port on the AQ6:


aquasuite alarm setup:


Comments from the aquaero manual:
Quote:


> 4.7. Connector „RPM/Tacho"
> Depending on configuration, the aquaero 5/6 can generate a speed signal
> which is available for processing through this connector. This speed signal
> can for example be configured to cease function upon alarm events and
> thereby relay the alarm status to a fan connector of your motherboard. Func-
> tionality of the speed signal can be configured using the menu entries
> "Alarm" and "Timer". For details on how to configure your motherboard to
> process the speed signal, please refer to the manual of your motherboard.


Edit:
If you have the pump connected by aquabus without a USB connection, the same can be setup under the aquaero alarm tab.


----------



## Mega Man

Several.

Do you want a wired solution or a program solution?

1 you can set the alarms to (through USB key boards protocol) shut down the PC.
2 Another is to hard mod either the power button (not instantaneous) -again would need to hold the button for at least 4 seconds to hard cycle the pc or the ps_on wire on the 24 pin. When it opens the relay the pc shuts down


----------



## Bogga

Ok... Just wanna do a quich check before I send yet another order.

I've already ordered and got one Flow sensor high flow USB G1/4 ( http://shop.aquacomputer.de/product_info.php?products_id=2897 ). Now I'll probably order yet another one

Now since my plans are dual loops I just want to know if there's any additional stuff I have to order to be able to monitor the flow and temps for both loops. Is everything I need included in the package or is there anything else I'll need?

I've got the aquaero 6...

Thanks in advance
//Bogga


----------



## geox19

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bogga*
> 
> Ok... Just wanna do a quich check before I send yet another order.
> 
> I've already ordered and got one Flow sensor high flow USB G1/4 ( http://shop.aquacomputer.de/product_info.php?products_id=2897 ). Now I'll probably order yet another one
> 
> Now since my plans are dual loops I just want to know if there's any additional stuff I have to order to be able to monitor the flow and temps for both loops. Is everything I need included in the package or is there anything else I'll need?
> 
> I've got the aquaero 6...
> 
> Thanks in advance
> //Bogga


Wouldn't you also need to order some temp sensors to hook up to it ? I don' think there built in that be nice if they were.


----------



## Bogga

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geox19*
> 
> Wouldn't you also need to order some temp sensors to hook up to it ? I don' think there built in that be nice if they were.


Would two of these be enough?

http://shop.aquacomputer.de/product_info.php?products_id=2293

Suppose these can be connected directly on it?


----------



## geox19

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bogga*
> 
> Would two of these be enough?
> 
> http://shop.aquacomputer.de/product_info.php?products_id=2293
> 
> Suppose these can be connected directly on it?


Pretty sure that's all you need.Those are sexy!! I'm thinking about using the same flow meters and temp sensors let us know how you like it. Do you also have the Aquaero?


----------



## Bogga

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geox19*
> 
> Those are sexy!! I'm thinking about using the same flow meters and temp sensors let us know how you like it. Do you also have the Aquaero?


They sure look nice

I suppose that's an affirmative on my question... yeah I've got the aquaero 6

Guess I'll order these stuff then


----------



## saintruski

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geox19*
> 
> Pretty sure that's all you need.Those are sexy!! I'm thinking about using the same flow meters and temp sensors let us know how you like it. Do you also have the Aquaero?


I used the temp sensors and aquacomputer flow meter. I had issues with bot however, i ordered 4 temp sensors, 2 of the four cam without o-rings, fixable issues not huge.

My biggest gripe is with their flow meter, it makes a distinct and loud/noticeable clicking sound. i had to drain my loop and rip it out because i couldn't take it anymore.


----------



## geox19

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *saintruski*
> 
> I used the temp sensors and aquacomputer flow meter. I had issues with bot however, i ordered 4 temp sensors, 2 of the four cam without o-rings, fixable issues not huge.
> 
> My biggest gripe is with their flow meter, it makes a distinct and loud/noticeable clicking sound. i had to drain my loop and rip it out because i couldn't take it anymore.


Maybe I need to rethink this. I wouldn't be able to to deal with clicking sounds. That's weird that it made clicking? I guess there's a impeller inside spinning?


----------



## AllGamer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geox19*
> 
> Maybe I need to rethink this. I wouldn't be able to to deal with clicking sounds. That's weird that it made clicking? I guess there's a impeller inside spinning?


you don't really hear the clicking sound unless you have the pumps at very high speed.

check out a few google videos with reviews about them

I did that and it made me feel more at ease









I ordered 3 of those high flow temp / flow sensors

.... found it https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xMVjBPLACWo

there are others, but this is the one i remember the most, since it compares pumps noises, and it has the nice AIDA LCD on the side using recycled phones, which I did one too























wait and listen in for the part when the aquareo high flow USB starts clicking when the guy cranks up the pumps to max speed


----------



## saintruski

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AllGamer*
> 
> you don't really hear the clicking sound unless you have the pumps at very high speed.
> 
> check out a few google videos with reviews about them
> 
> I did that and it made me feel more at ease
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I ordered 3 of those high flow temp / flow sensors
> 
> .... found it https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xMVjBPLACWo
> 
> there are others, but this is the one i remember the most, since it compares pumps noises, and it has the nice AIDA LCD on the side using recycled phones, which I did one too
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> wait and listen in for the part when the aquareo high flow USB starts clicking when the guy cranks up the pumps to max speed


I aim for 1-1.5GPM, (i think that is around 3.5-5.5LPM, unless I'm using conversion wrong, which is what that guys shows it clicks at) typically a good flow rate.

Looking at the guys results to achieve this flow target for both dual and single D5 pumps he has to use pretty high speeds. If target flow rate cant be met without high pump speeds, then pump speeds do not matter as long as target flow is achieved.

It does not happen at high pump speeds, it means it happens at certain flow rates, which is not great, whenever you hit a good flow you will hear clicking, even if you somehow find a way to hit 1-1.5GPM with a low pump speed, because it has to move the impeller inside.


----------



## aaronstransam

Might be a dumb question but here it goes. How many rgb leds can an Aquaero 5 handle or is it only capable of running a single rgb led? Can I use it to run all my lighting as I'm going to but completely redoing my build soon and getting rid of the ccls and going led


----------



## phatDUB

Guess no reply on my inquiry as is it too complicated


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *phatDUB*
> 
> Guess no reply on my inquiry as is it too complicated


What was you inquiry???


----------



## GTXJackBauer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *saintruski*
> 
> I aim for 1-1.5GPM, (i think that is around 3.5-5.5LPM, unless I'm using conversion wrong, which is what that guys shows it clicks at) typically a good flow rate.
> 
> Looking at the guys results to achieve this flow target for both dual and single D5 pumps he has to use pretty high speeds. If target flow rate cant be met without high pump speeds, then pump speeds do not matter as long as target flow is achieved.
> 
> It does not happen at high pump speeds, it means it happens at certain flow rates, which is not great, whenever you hit a good flow you will hear clicking, even if you somehow find a way to hit 1-1.5GPM with a low pump speed, because it has to move the impeller inside.


This is correct.

I run two DDC 35X2 in serial and only get the clicking sound when my flow reaches the 1.5 GPM range. You don't need your flow to run that high to be an efficient flowing loop. Anywhere from 1.0-1.5 GPM is fine to the point the clicking sound isn't audible. I honestly don't go no more than 1.0 GPM on full load and .6 during idle times.


----------



## phatDUB

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *phatDUB*
> 
> Good day everyone.
> 
> I have an Aquaero 5 XT for a year now and still sitting in a box. now im planning to add it into my current build.
> 
> upon checking there is vast materials online about the Aquaero and there are so many information from it. still having a hard time understanding it in layman point of view
> 
> I know there is possibilities but cant seem to find proper documentation of it.
> 
> is there any simpler way on setting this by hardware connection like the list below:
> 
> - Planning for Two loops (1 for GPU and 1 for Proc/Mobo)
> - Using Two D5 Pumps (With Aquabus or Without [Standard MCP655 without Vario])
> - Using Two Flow Sensors
> - Using Two Tube Sensor
> - Using Sensor for each Radiators and other important points within the Case (physically or in virtually)
> - Using Relay for Alarms
> - Using Two RGB Led to Show System Status (by color) of the System being reported to the Aquaero 5 XT
> - Without adding Aquabus is there any possibilities to run them from AQ 5XT only if not is the AQ 6XT can handle them all.
> 
> If there are some AquaComputer rep here would love to have a chat directly for some Technical Expertise advice
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thank you in advance.
> 
> phatDUB


This







I cannot finish my Order as im afraid I cant do the stuff mentioned above...


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *phatDUB*
> 
> This
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I cannot finish my Order as im afraid I cant do the stuff mentioned above...


Forget the tube sensors as latest update did away with them!!

Pumps are set and forget and you can do everything you want from the 5 xt


----------



## V I P E R

Hello,

I decided that is time to try the Aquaero 6XT, but I have a few questions before I make my purchase.

The parts that I'm going to need to control are:
20 x Sunon fans with the following specs:

Size (mm): 120x120x25
Rated voltage: 12VDC
Operating voltage range: 6-13.8 VDC
Rated current: 451 mA / Max 519 mA
Rated power Consumption ( W ): 5.40 W / Max 6.22 W
Starting voltage: 6VDC
Air flow: (m3/h): 183.8
Rated speed: (RPM): 3100
Static pressure (cm-H2O): 0.71
Wiring: 3-wire (Frequency Generator)
Automatic restart: Yes

You can check detail specifications of the fans here: SUNON

The pumps that I have are: EK-BAY RES Dual DDC 3.25 Serial (incl. pump)


The pump used in the res/pump combo is this type: EK-DDC 3.25 (12V DC pump)

It has the following technical specs:

- Dimensions (W x D x H): 90 x 62 x 38 mm
- Motor: Electronically commuted ball bearing motor
- Rated voltage: 12 V DC
- Power consumption: 20 W
- Maximum head pressure: up to 7.0m
- Maximum flow rate: up to 1000 L/h
- Maximum liquid temperature: 60°C
- Materials: Stainless steel, PPS-GF40, EPDM O-rings, Aluminium oxide, hard coal
- Power connector: 4-Pin Molex- and 3-Pin DC FAN connector

My concern is whether I'm going to be able to control all the fans and pumps with the aquaero 6 xt or I will have to buy the poweradjust 3 USB ultra version.

I plan to purchase the farbwerk USB, Bluetooth and aquabus version to control about 2 meters of RGB LED strip.

I also want to monitor 4 temps with inline temp sensors and have one flow sensor, but I don't know which one to choose and is the Aquaero going to handle all of fans, pumps and sensors.

For now I think to order the aquaero 6 XT USB fan controller + Front plate for aquaero 5 und 6 XT aluminum black + Passive heat sink for aquaero 6, red + Replacement front new design for aquaero 5 und 6 XT (red LEDs), but if I have to purchase something else please tell me so I don't have to pay again for shipping.

Thank you in advance for the help.


----------



## Revan654

Quick question. Can you daisy chain Aquacomputer HUBBY7 (Combine two on one header)? I have about 8 USB 2.0 cables and only have two USB 2.0 headers on my Motherboard.


----------



## jsutter71

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> Quick question. Can you daisy chain Aquacomputer HUBBY7 (Combine two on one header)? I have about 8 USB 2.0 cables and only have two USB 2.0 headers on my Motherboard.


It comes with a 5 pin cable so yes. As long as your motherboard has enough available resources to allocate for the 2 hubs.That depends on how many other USB 2.0 devices, and other hubs you have connected.


----------



## Shoggy

You could also connect one HUBBY7 to another HUBBY7









In this case I recommend to use the SATA power for the "master device" if you use all ports. Depending on which devices you connect you could run into a technical limitation of the USB port. Some devices have a high polling rate. If you connect a lot of them to one port the available bandwidth could become a problem.


----------



## geox19

I'm looking to purchase some flow sensors. I would just buy the aquacomputer flow sensor but I need three sensors and I wouldn't be able to stand 3 of them clicking away. I know it takes a certain amount of flow to make them click so I guess i could get away with them. I just don't feel like they should click at all it's just an impeller spinning. There must some play around the bearing where the impeller sits or something. Anyone know of a good flow sensor to use?


----------



## jvillaveces

I just finished upgrading my daily driver from soft to hard tubing. I also changed the fans to Corsair ML PROs, Now I can't get the AQ6 or the Farbwerk to work. The fans are spinning at full speed, so I can tell the AQ6 is getting and passing power, but the display is off and Aquasuite says it's disconnected from USB. It says the same about the farby, although the leds are on (including an additional strip I put in, which is stuck on green until I can regain control).

Before the rebuild, I had everything connected through both USB and Aquabus. I took out all the aquabus extensions and Y's and replaced them with a Splitty9. I can't tell if that part worked or not, because of the AQ6's refusal to start. All my AC devices (AQ6 Pro, Farbwerk USB, High Flow USB, 2x aquabus pumps) are connected to an NZXT USB hub. It's the same hub I've had for over a year, linked to the same devices with the same cables. However, only the pumps and flow sensor seem to be recognized, the Aq6 and farbwerk aren't. This is what I have done so far to troubleshoot the problem:
- Connect one of the known working pumps to every port on the USB hub to see if they all work. They do
- Connect the AQ6 (and later the farbwerk) to every single port on the hub to see if they might work on some. They don't
- Remove the USB cables from both devices and test each wire/pin for continuity, Both pass
- Try to connect the stubborn devices using different cables. The farbwerk worked for a while (one boot-test-off cycle), the AQ6 didn't
- Temporarily connect everything to a NIB nzxt hub I had lying around. Same problem

I'm stumped! Any ideas?

EDIT: remove duplicate paragraph


----------



## geox19

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jvillaveces*
> 
> I just finished upgrading my daily driver from soft to hard tubing. I also changed the fans to Corsair ML PROs, Now I can't get the AQ6 or the Farbwerk to work. The fans are spinning at full speed, so I can tell the AQ6 is getting and passing power, but the display is off and Aquasuite says it's disconnected from USB. It says the same about the farby, although the leds are on (including an additional strip I put in, which is stuck on green until I can regain control).
> 
> Before the rebuild, I had everything connected through both USB and Aquabus. I took out all the aquabus extensions and Y's and replaced them with a Splitty9. I can't tell if that part worked or not, because of the AQ6's refusal to start. All my AC devices (AQ6 Pro, Farbwerk USB, High Flow USB, 2x aquabus pumps) are connected to an NZXT USB hub. It's the same hub I've had for over a year, linked to the same devices with the same cables. However, only the pumps and flow sensor seem to be recognized, the Aq6 and farbwerk aren't. This is what I have done so far to troubleshoot the problem:
> - Connect one of the known working pumps to every port on the USB hub to see if they all work. They do
> - Connect the AQ6 (and later the farbwerk) to every single port on the hub to see if they might work on some. They don't
> - Remove the USB cables from both devices and test each wire/pin for continuity, Both pass
> - Try to connect the stubborn devices using different cables. The farbwerk worked for a while (one boot-test-off cycle), the AQ6 didn't
> - Temporarily connect everything to a NIB nzxt hub I had lying around. Same problem
> 
> Before the rebuild, I had everything connected through both USB and Aquabus. I took out all the aquabus extensions and Y's and replaced them with a Splitty9. I can't tell if that part worked or not, because of the AQ6's refusal to start. The crazy thing is that the display doesn't come on.
> 
> I'm stumped! Any ideas?


Damn that sucks man. I think i read somewhere that you can do a hard reset on the A6 from somewhere on the back?? I'm not sure though I'll look at mine and see have you tried connecting the A6 straight to the usb pins on the motherboard?


----------



## Bogga

Where do you set delay (fan spin up delay) on the fans in the aq6? It's a bit annoying when the cpu suddenly spikes in temp for a second or two and the fans revs...


----------



## geox19

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bogga*
> 
> Where do you set delay (fan spin up delay) on the fans in the aq6? It's a bit annoying when the cpu suddenly spikes in temp for a second or two and the fans revs...


Don't quote me but I don't see a delay so I don't think it's possible. I think you just have to play with the curves in the controller section.


----------



## Bogga

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geox19*
> 
> Don't quote me but I don't see a delay so I don't think it's possible. I think you just have to play with the curves in the controller section.


I've googled like crazy... and if I'm not totally incorrect there seemed to be in previous versions. If so, why remove it?


----------



## geox19

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *V I P E R*
> 
> Hello,
> 
> I decided that is time to try the Aquaero 6XT, but I have a few questions before I make my purchase.
> 
> The parts that I'm going to need to control are:
> 20 x Sunon fans with the following specs:
> 
> Size (mm): 120x120x25
> Rated voltage: 12VDC
> Operating voltage range: 6-13.8 VDC
> Rated current: 451 mA / Max 519 mA
> Rated power Consumption ( W ): 5.40 W / Max 6.22 W
> Starting voltage: 6VDC
> Air flow: (m3/h): 183.8
> Rated speed: (RPM): 3100
> Static pressure (cm-H2O): 0.71
> Wiring: 3-wire (Frequency Generator)
> Automatic restart: Yes
> 
> You can check detail specifications of the fans here: SUNON
> 
> The pumps that I have are: EK-BAY RES Dual DDC 3.25 Serial (incl. pump)
> 
> 
> The pump used in the res/pump combo is this type: EK-DDC 3.25 (12V DC pump)
> 
> It has the following technical specs:
> 
> - Dimensions (W x D x H): 90 x 62 x 38 mm
> - Motor: Electronically commuted ball bearing motor
> - Rated voltage: 12 V DC
> - Power consumption: 20 W
> - Maximum head pressure: up to 7.0m
> - Maximum flow rate: up to 1000 L/h
> - Maximum liquid temperature: 60°C
> - Materials: Stainless steel, PPS-GF40, EPDM O-rings, Aluminium oxide, hard coal
> - Power connector: 4-Pin Molex- and 3-Pin DC FAN connector
> 
> My concern is whether I'm going to be able to control all the fans and pumps with the aquaero 6 xt or I will have to buy the poweradjust 3 USB ultra version.
> 
> I plan to purchase the farbwerk USB, Bluetooth and aquabus version to control about 2 meters of RGB LED strip.
> 
> I also want to monitor 4 temps with inline temp sensors and have one flow sensor, but I don't know which one to choose and is the Aquaero going to handle all of fans, pumps and sensors.
> 
> For now I think to order the aquaero 6 XT USB fan controller + Front plate for aquaero 5 und 6 XT aluminum black + Passive heat sink for aquaero 6, red + Replacement front new design for aquaero 5 und 6 XT (red LEDs), but if I have to purchase something else please tell me so I don't have to pay again for shipping.
> 
> Thank you in advance for the help.


https://forum.aquacomputer.de/weitere-foren/english-forum/105278-hard-reset-aquaero-6-pro-is-this-the-correct-steps/
Aquaero 6 hard rest

Opps miss quote sorry lol


----------



## jvillaveces

Thanks Diva!
Any idea what could have caused the problem? I'm puzzled by the AQ6 and the farbwerk failing the same way at the same time, and by the farbwerk working for a while and then disappearing again.
I don't have any jumpers, can I just use temp sensors to jumper the sensor ports as instructed? What about resetting the farbwerk?


----------



## Shoggy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bogga*
> 
> I've googled like crazy... and if I'm not totally incorrect there seemed to be in previous versions. If so, why remove it?


There is and also never was such an option. Controlling the fans by the CPU temperature is not recommend at all. As you already noticed the fans will spin up and down like crazy because also the temperature of the CPU does the same within seconds.

You should use the water temperature to control the fans. Even if your CPU is doing some work for one minute it would make no sense to speed up the fans because the water temperature will not change much within one minute which also means that even if you spin up the fans it would have no useful effect on the cooling performance. If the water temperatures really starts to climb, then you can spin up the fans. This way you will get a much more smoother fan control that only works when it is really necessary.


----------



## Bogga

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> There is and also never was such an option. Controlling the fans by the CPU temperature is not recommend at all. As you already noticed the fans will spin up and down like crazy because also the temperature of the CPU does the same within seconds.
> 
> You should use the water temperature to control the fans. Even if your CPU is doing some work for one minute it would make no sense to speed up the fans because the water temperature will not change much within one minute which also means that even if you spin up the fans it would have no useful effect on the cooling performance. If the water temperatures really starts to climb, then you can spin up the fans. This way you will get a much more smoother fan control that only works when it is really necessary.


https://hw-lab.com/aquaero-usb-4-0-review.html/7

"Controller delay in sec." - time, in seconds, used to determine how fast controller reacts to sensor readings change."

Thought that was what I was looking for...

But water temp might be a better way to control the fans.


----------



## Shoggy

The aquaero 4 was a completely different story









This setting would also not completely do what you want. It would bring you closer to your idea but would not work as you expect. The old manual explains in more detail how it works - anyway, that is history...


----------



## geox19

You should use the water temperature to control the fans. Even if your CPU is doing some work for one minute it would make no sense to speed up the fans because the water temperature will not change much within one minute which also means that even if you spin up the fans it would have no useful effect on the cooling performance. If the water temperatures really starts to climb, then you can spin up the fans. This way you will get a much more smoother fan control that only works when it is really necessary.[/quote]

How do we go about setting the controller up to to use water temp as data? I don't see that option nm Duh I found it.


----------



## Shoggy

When you set up a controller you have to assign a data source. Just select your water temperature sensor.


----------



## geox19

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> When you set up a controller you have to assign a data source. Just select your water temperature sensor.


Thank you I've set it up to use my water temps. I'm running some stress test right now. This is exactly the way I want my fans to perform. Awesome advise. Quick question I'm going to buy 3 aquacompter flow sensors what wires do I need to buy to be able to hook all three of them up to the A6 Aquabus? Also For some reason I can't get my ferbwerk to been seen on the aquabuss maybe it's because they sent me the Bluetooth version when i ordered the usb aquabus version? Does the bluetooth version not work with aquabus?


----------



## -MrE-

Hello there!

I see a lot of people using power adjusts in combination with the aquaero 5lt. I'm planning on using
8 Corsair AF140's on Fan 1
8 Corsair SP120's on Fan 2
3 Corsair AF120's on Fan 3
This way I have fan channels 1 till 3 used. The 4th, the pwm channel, is still free
4 Pumps will be controlled through aquabus cables, next to that I'm going to use 2 rgb led strips. Probably going to connect both of them to the same rgb output channel. Am I correct that I don't need any extra units?

What kind of setup would you recommend?

I have the aluminium heatsink on the 5LT, would I need the watercooling block?

thanks in advance!


----------



## phatDUB

Happy with AQ5xt


----------



## wa3pnt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *-MrE-*
> 
> next to that I'm going to use 2 rgb led strips. Probably going to connect both of them to the same rgb output channel. Am I correct that I don't need any extra units?


You cannot connect RGB Strips to the RGB output on the Aquaero 5 or 6.

That output is 3 to 4 Volts (positive) with a maximum of 20 mA.

RGB Strips require 12V Vcc, and then pull that to ground with the RGB lines.

You will need a Farbwerk to use the RGB Strips.

RodeoGeorge


----------



## Mega Man

To the gentleman with the 3 flow devices you need 4 pin splitter. With all 4 pins split. If the hubby or splitter (idr which) from aquacomputer (which ever does fans/ Aquabus. Having trouble remembering which is which bit I think you need the splitter)
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *-MrE-*
> 
> Hello there!
> 
> I see a lot of people using power adjusts in combination with the aquaero 5lt. I'm planning on using
> 8 Corsair AF140's on Fan 1
> 8 Corsair SP120's on Fan 2
> 3 Corsair AF120's on Fan 3
> This way I have fan channels 1 till 3 used. The 4th, the pwm channel, is still free
> 4 Pumps will be controlled through aquabus cables, next to that I'm going to use 2 rgb led strips. Probably going to connect both of them to the same rgb output channel. Am I correct that I don't need any extra units?
> 
> What kind of setup would you recommend?
> 
> I have the aluminium heatsink on the 5LT, would I need the watercooling block?
> 
> thanks in advance!


I would recommend the water block
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wa3pnt*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *-MrE-*
> 
> next to that I'm going to use 2 rgb led strips. Probably going to connect both of them to the same rgb output channel. Am I correct that I don't need any extra units?
> 
> 
> 
> You cannot connect RGB Strips to the RGB output on the Aquaero 5 or 6.
> 
> That output is 3 to 4 Volts (positive) with a maximum of 20 mA.
> 
> RGB Strips require 12V Vcc, and then pull that to ground with the RGB lines.
> 
> You will need a Farbwerk to use the RGB Strips.
> 
> RodeoGeorge
Click to expand...

You can build or buy a jeak amp fyi that let's you do just toss.

The farbwerk will not be able to connect via aquabus as he has 4 MPS devices, unless they are not a MPS,.... idr of the top of my head and I don't have time to read the manual to check... sorry: (


----------



## geox19

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> To the gentleman with the 3 flow devices you need 4 pin splitter. With all 4 pins split. If the hubby or splitter (idr which) from aquacomputer (which ever does fans/ Aquabus.
> 
> Thank you for the info very much appreciated


----------



## -MrE-

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wa3pnt*
> 
> You cannot connect RGB Strips to the RGB output on the Aquaero 5 or 6.
> 
> That output is 3 to 4 Volts (positive) with a maximum of 20 mA.
> 
> RGB Strips require 12V Vcc, and then pull that to ground with the RGB lines.
> 
> You will need a Farbwerk to use the RGB Strips.
> 
> RodeoGeorge


Thnx! Could I use 12v from the psu in combination with the pwm output on the aquaero?









And are the pumps MPS devices?


----------



## Mega Man

the pumps ARE yes !


----------



## -MrE-

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> the pumps ARE yes !


Ah ok thanks, the pumps I want are the d5 aquabus version like you guys already assumed I guess. Saw I didn't mention them. Is 4 aquabus MPS devices the maximum then?


----------



## Mega Man

for mps yes


----------



## outofmyheadyo

Found an old aquaero 6 pro in my box of stuff, it does not have a cables or neither do I have any slots on my case to mount one, do these support somesort of software tuning or should I just leave it be. Can someone link to a cable that would connect it up and let me use it via software if that's an option.
All my fans are PWM.


----------



## -MrE-

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> for mps yes


Found a bit of text after looking up MPS devices:
In maximum configuration, the following devices can be connected to an aquaero 5 simultaneously:
2x aquastream XT pumps
8x poweradjust 2/3
1x aquaero 5 LT (in this case only 4x poweradjust 2/3)
4x mps based devices (flow sensor, pressure/fill level sensor and D5 pump with aquabus)
2x farbwerk controller
1x Real Time Clock expansion module

Sa next to the 4 pumps a farbwerk is possible if I understand correctly


----------



## jsutter71

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *-MrE-*
> 
> Found a bit of text after looking up MPS devices:
> In maximum configuration, the following devices can be connected to an aquaero 5 simultaneously:
> 2x aquastream XT pumps
> 8x poweradjust 2/3
> 1x aquaero 5 LT (in this case only 4x poweradjust 2/3)
> 4x mps based devices (flow sensor, pressure/fill level sensor and D5 pump with aquabus)
> 2x farbwerk controller
> 1x Real Time Clock expansion module
> 
> Sa next to the 4 pumps a farbwerk is possible if I understand correctly


You do understand correctly.


----------



## roamin

Hey all. Struggling here unfortunately.

I have a aqua res with fill sensor on port 15 on aquabus
I have a farbwerk on port 21 i think it is.

When i load aquasuite theres no tabs on the left for the farbwerk or the fill sensor for the res. Mp40

When i connected each device by usb to switch each device over to aquabus i had control tabs in aquasuite on the left to calibrate the the fill sensor and so on.

How does this aquabus stuff work? Am i better of going back to usb? This aquabus seems to be giving me headaches lol


----------



## Mega Man

You won't have a tab for it if connected via aquabus.

Think of it as the part becomes part of the aquaero.

It is under the aquaero.


----------



## roamin

in these photos you can see i have farbwerk channels set to color preset yet the led strip is still cycling different colors. its as if its not being controlled by the aquaero at all. i have cet all 4 channels to solid color yet it still sits here cycling through colors. i cant change the brightness or anything via aquaero / aquasuite.





also under fill level sensor i have nothing about calibration with the reservoir fill level sensor, usb i did


----------



## Mega Man

again, you dont access them like that,

what are you trying to do?

also
please dont crop your pics it is easier to tell what is going on with a a full window snip like so



you WILL NOT have control tabs in the left when connected via aquabus. ONLY usb connection has this.

when using aquabus, the device becomes part of the aquaero

i do not have either a flow sensor nor a farbwerk connected to this pc or i could show you.

however the first screenshot above shows what i mean, under the aquaero tab, you can see the farbwerk under outputs, you can make a static color like they are and ( like in the above second screenshot ) you can also set up a controller under controller tab for it as well, under the aquaero

the flow sensor is a sensor and will be under the sensor tab of the aquaero

( still true but you have a fill sensor. )

i have never used a fill sensor yet , which fill sensor are you using ??
this is assuming ( and it sounds like you did ) you set the aquabus address properly and set the priority to aquabus


----------



## roamin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> You won't have a tab for it if connected via aquabus.
> 
> Think of it as the part becomes part of the aquaero.
> 
> It is under the aquaero.


what you have shown is exactly what i have shown. yet mine is not responding at all. the farbwerk is outputting automatic color changing. thats it, i change any settings and nothing responds, tried the led strip in every port on the farbwerk and there just outputting the same thing, colorchanging. all my settings are set for a solid color.




here you can see i have no fill or pressure sensors. im using a aqualis xt res with fill sensor, mp40



edit: view original picture for a clear picture. or try this https://roamin33.imgur.com/all/


----------



## Mega Man

( just trying to help, you can veiw original image in OCN either middle click the pick of click it then select the lower right box original )

from what i can see you have a fill sensor registering as a pressure sensor ? idk about that, - will need shoggy to chime in

as to the farbwerk -
i could be wrong but i think you are "use the outputs from the device" ( my understanding at face value would be the device does what it wants ) and you need to select a different box- sorry i dont play with mine much :/


----------



## roamin

yeah i have mine set to use outputs from device. im at a loss at the moment.

i will keep poking around and thank you for giving me a hand!


----------



## Mega Man

I would try both of the other 2 options.


----------



## roamin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> I would try both of the other 2 options.


i have unfortunately it made no difference


----------



## Shoggy

In the farbwerk settings (USB) you have to change the modes for all channels to be controlled from an external source


----------



## GTXJackBauer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> In the farbwerk settings (USB) you have to change the modes for all channels to be controlled from an external source


This.

For example...


----------



## Ranma13

This is a long shot, but does anyone here have experience with the USB HID reports that Aquasuite uses to communicate with the Aquaero 6? Specifically, I'm wondering about feature report 11 that Aquasuite sends to the Aquaero to update a ton of settings at once (it sends a 2,653-byte array, of which 2048 are used). According to the decompiled source code, the order of the byte array should be:

Code:



Code:


Report ID 11 (uint8) -> Structure Version Number (uint16) -> Aquaero Timestamp (uint32) -> Timezone offset (uint8)

But the actual data that's getting sent to the Aquaero is:

Code:



Code:


Report ID 11 (uint8) -> Structure Version Number (uint16) -> Aquaero Timestamp (uint32) -> 18 0x00 bytes -> a bunch of other bytes -> Timezone offset

I have no idea where the data in between the timestamp and the timezone offset are coming from. The decompiled code shows that an array called readBuffer is first copied into a MemoryStream, but the stream's position is set back to 0 after the readBuffer is copied. After that, the structure version number, timestamp, and timezone offset are written one after another to the MemoryStream, which should replace the bytes in those positions, but this doesn't match up with what I'm seeing.


----------



## roamin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> In the farbwerk settings (USB) you have to change the modes for all channels to be controlled from an external source


wouldnt it be common sense when you switch to aquabus you want to actually control it via aquabus? why does aquabus need to be so complicated?

http://aquacomputer.de/handbuecher.html?file=tl_files/aquacomputer/downloads/manuals/farbwerk_Rev2_english_20150310.pdf is the manual as you know



in that link i can not see where you need to switch every channel before switching it over to aquabus. so how is anyone to know this? once its switched to aquabus the firmware should be smart enough to switch everything to suit.

what about my aqualis xt reservoir? it too is connected via aquabus and without draining the loop and pulling my pc apart i cant get access to the usb port on the bottom of it anymore.

under fill sensors there is nothing, the aqualis xt is connected via aquabus to the aquaero and i cant see any mp40 to do with the fill sensor, was i meant to change more settings under usb mode on the aqualis? should i be seeing a fill sensor for the fill sensor or a pressue sensor? dont have a pressure sensor either, so something isnt working right with the reservoir either.


----------



## Mega Man

Fyi. The fill sensor is a pressure sensor


----------



## Shoggy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *roamin*
> 
> wouldnt it be common sense when you switch to aquabus you want to actually control it via aquabus? once its switched to aquabus the firmware should be smart enough to switch everything to suit.
> 
> what about my aqualis xt reservoir? it too is connected via aquabus and without draining the loop and pulling my pc apart i cant get access to the usb port on the bottom of it anymore.


There is nothing to switch. The fabrwerk uses USB and aquabus simultaneously so you have to tell it to which commands it should react to. What if you want to control two channels via USB and the other two via aquabus? The farbwerk does not know that so you have to tell it.

For the aqualis XT you will need a 4-pin aquabus cable if you do not use USB because otherwise the sensor will get no power. You will have to connect USB at least one time for the initial setup where you calibrate the fill level. In the fonciguration tab you should check that the correct device type is set: pressure sensor delta 40.

The aquabus only reads out the sensor vlaue so there will no special menu in the aquaero. If it works correctly you can see the sensor in the tab sensor -> fill level sensor.

In generel you should take a look at the aquabox window in the system tab of the aquaero. It list all aquabus devices that have been detected. If a specific device it not listed there you do not have too look any further because you will not find anything. If it is not listed there it means there is no connection established.


----------



## V I P E R

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *V I P E R*
> 
> Hello,
> 
> I decided that is time to try the Aquaero 6XT, but I have a few questions before I make my purchase.
> 
> The parts that I'm going to need to control are:
> 20 x Sunon fans with the following specs:
> 
> Size (mm): 120x120x25
> Rated voltage: 12VDC
> Operating voltage range: 6-13.8 VDC
> Rated current: 451 mA / Max 519 mA
> Rated power Consumption ( W ): 5.40 W / Max 6.22 W
> Starting voltage: 6VDC
> Air flow: (m3/h): 183.8
> Rated speed: (RPM): 3100
> Static pressure (cm-H2O): 0.71
> Wiring: 3-wire (Frequency Generator)
> Automatic restart: Yes
> 
> You can check detail specifications of the fans here: SUNON
> 
> The pumps that I have are: EK-BAY RES Dual DDC 3.25 Serial (incl. pump)
> 
> 
> The pump used in the res/pump combo is this type: EK-DDC 3.25 (12V DC pump)
> 
> It has the following technical specs:
> 
> - Dimensions (W x D x H): 90 x 62 x 38 mm
> - Motor: Electronically commuted ball bearing motor
> - Rated voltage: 12 V DC
> - Power consumption: 20 W
> - Maximum head pressure: up to 7.0m
> - Maximum flow rate: up to 1000 L/h
> - Maximum liquid temperature: 60°C
> - Materials: Stainless steel, PPS-GF40, EPDM O-rings, Aluminium oxide, hard coal
> - Power connector: 4-Pin Molex- and 3-Pin DC FAN connector
> 
> My concern is whether I'm going to be able to control all the fans and pumps with the aquaero 6 xt or I will have to buy the poweradjust 3 USB ultra version.
> 
> I plan to purchase the farbwerk USB, Bluetooth and aquabus version to control about 2 meters of RGB LED strip.
> 
> I also want to monitor 4 temps with inline temp sensors and have one flow sensor, but I don't know which one to choose and is the Aquaero going to handle all of fans, pumps and sensors.
> 
> For now I think to order the aquaero 6 XT USB fan controller + Front plate for aquaero 5 und 6 XT aluminum black + Passive heat sink for aquaero 6, red + Replacement front new design for aquaero 5 und 6 XT (red LEDs), but if I have to purchase something else please tell me so I don't have to pay again for shipping.
> 
> Thank you in advance for the help.


Anyone have any thoughts on how to hook up my fans and pumps to the Aquaero 6 XT?


----------



## roamin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> There is nothing to switch. The fabrwerk uses USB and aquabus simultaneously so you have to tell it to which commands it should react to. What if you want to control two channels via USB and the other two via aquabus? The farbwerk does not know that so you have to tell it.


if the manual doesnt say this then humans do not know either, therefor you have to tell them too. a new manual update with pictures would be handy here!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> For the aqualis XT you will need a 4-pin aquabus cable if you do not use USB because otherwise the sensor will get no power. You will have to connect USB at least one time for the initial setup where you calibrate the fill level. In the fonciguration tab you should check that the correct device type is set: pressure sensor delta 40.
> 
> The aquabus only reads out the sensor vlaue so there will no special menu in the aquaero. If it works correctly you can see the sensor in the tab sensor -> fill level sensor.
> 
> In generel you should take a look at the aquabox window in the system tab of the aquaero. It list all aquabus devices that have been detected. If a specific device it not listed there you do not have too look any further because you will not find anything. If it is not listed there it means there is no connection established.


from what im gathering here, the best way to run this aqualis then is via usb and aquabus seems pointless. instead of using one cable for aquabus that contains these headaches, your better of using one cable and usb instead as with usb it just works, i dont need to hold its hand and give all the devices specific instructions. if i need to preprogram the device by usb first, i may as well just stick with usb. problem is my res is now setup and has hard tubing on it, so to switch back to usb now to fix this issue i have to drain my loop, pull out the rigid tubing and remove the aqualis to switch it to usb and then put it all back together and refill my loop. its what i would call a pain in my backside.

anything aquacomputer now i think i will stick with usb. usb works, aquabus is a headache before it works. shame i had to get to this point to work that out unfortunately


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *roamin*
> 
> if the manual doesnt say this then humans do not know either, therefor you have to tell them too. a new manual update with pictures would be handy here!
> from what im gathering here, the best way to run this aqualis then is via usb and aquabus seems pointless. instead of using one cable for aquabus that contains these headaches, your better of using one cable and usb instead as with usb it just works, i dont need to hold its hand and give all the devices specific instructions. if i need to preprogram the device by usb first, i may as well just stick with usb. problem is my res is now setup and has hard tubing on it, so to switch back to usb now to fix this issue i have to drain my loop, pull out the rigid tubing and remove the aqualis to switch it to usb and then put it all back together and refill my loop. its what i would call a pain in my backside.
> 
> anything aquacomputer now i think i will stick with usb. usb works, aquabus is a headache before it works. shame i had to get to this point to work that out unfortunately


Sorry ? you had problems with aquabus as i loved it i had 6 pa's, 2 pumps hooked up to it with no problems!!


----------



## Mega Man

Sorry but at this point imo it is well established to have both USB and aquabus connected. Would be an easy fix, if out was connected, also I would not have an issue putting a USB wire on it what is the issue ?

Space ?


----------



## roamin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> Sorry but at this point imo it is well established to have both USB and aquabus connected. Would be an easy fix, if out was connected, also I would not have an issue putting a USB wire on it what is the issue ?
> 
> Space ?


this makes no sense to me. are you stating something or asking a question here?


----------



## Mega Man

Why is it so hard to connect the usb ?


----------



## Revan654

I was wondering If I can connect all the following with aquaero 6 XT.

Aquabus High: D5 Pump One
Aquabus Low: D5 Pump Two

Or do both pumps have to go to Aquabus High?


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> I was wondering If I can connect all the following with aquaero 6 XT.
> 
> Aquabus High: D5 Pump One
> Aquabus Low: D5 Pump Two
> 
> Or do both pumps have to go to Aquabus High?


Both go to high


----------



## JasonMorris

Low is defunct.


----------



## Ranma13

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JasonMorris*
> 
> Low is defunct.


More specifically, the low-speed Aquabus has been disabled as of a firmware update sometime around 2015.


----------



## roamin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> Why is it so hard to connect the usb ?


hard to see in these pics but i have a custom mid plate i cnc machined in my CL S8 case and the bottom of the res has around a 5-10mm gap. too tight to get the cable in there

also running hard tubes and the system is running. so i would have to drain my loop, remove hardlines and reservoir to get access to the base of the aqualis then reassemble and refill the loop and bleed it.
if i had of known this was going to be this much of an issue, i wouldnt waste my time with aquabus as right now its useless and the manuals they provide are absolutely terrible. previous post had a screenshot of the aquabus instructions of the farbwerk. never mentions anything shoggy mentioned to me about setting up the farbwerk for aquabus and the same goes for the aqualis manual.

am i impressed with this whole aquabus system and the instructions to set it up? well i reckon you can work that out lol.


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JasonMorris*
> 
> Low is defunct.


Ah, Maybe should just get a few Power Adjust modules.


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *roamin*
> 
> hard to see in these pics but i have a custom mid plate i cnc machined in my CL S8 case and the bottom of the res has around a 5-10mm gap. too tight to get the cable in there
> 
> also running hard tubes and the system is running. so i would have to drain my loop, remove hardlines and reservoir to get access to the base of the aqualis then reassemble and refill the loop and bleed it.
> if i had of known this was going to be this much of an issue, i wouldnt waste my time with aquabus as right now its useless and the manuals they provide are absolutely terrible. previous post had a screenshot of the aquabus instructions of the farbwerk. never mentions anything shoggy mentioned to me about setting up the farbwerk for aquabus and the same goes for the aqualis manual.
> 
> am i impressed with this whole aquabus system and the instructions to set it up? well i reckon you can work that out lol.


Don't understand why you are having so much problems??? Everything is in book or forum if you read these, i set everything up using a laptop ? before I installed everything!! I also had done a lot of research and asked a lot of questions before i did anything!! Their are several very good guides on the net on how to do everything!!

Better luck in the future


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> Ah, Maybe should just get a few Power Adjust modules.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> Ah, Maybe should just get a few Power Adjust modules.


Why???


----------



## roamin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> Don't understand why you are having so much problems??? Everything is in book or forum if you read these, i set everything up using a laptop ? before I installed everything!! I also had done a lot of research and asked a lot of questions before i did anything!! Their are several very good guides on the net on how to do everything!!
> 
> Better luck in the future


I will go back through the manuals tonight and see. But under the aquabus settings i didnt see that you had to set it up this way. Only knew i had to tell it to work with aquabus priority which i did.

I also didnt see in the manual i had to google how to use something that comes with a manual on how to use it.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> Don't understand why you are having so much problems??? Everything is in book or forum if you read these, i set everything up using a laptop ? before I installed everything!! I also had done a lot of research and asked a lot of questions before i did anything!! Their are several very good guides on the net on how to do everything!!
> 
> Better luck in the future


aquabus instructions in the manual for the farbwerk. this is the actual english manual revision 2 from aquacomputers site

"Before connecting farbwerk devices to an aquaero 5/6 controller, each farbwerk
device has to be configured to an individual aquabus address. You may skip this
step if only one farbwerk device is connected. Addresses 20 and 21 are available
for farbwerk devices."

when i buy something with a manual, i dont usually go browsing the internet to learn how to use, hence manufacturers send you a manual

now i set it up per the manuals instructions. which doesnt have the proper instructions on how to set it up.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> In the farbwerk settings (USB) you have to change the modes for all channels to be controlled from an external source


^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
this is not in the manual


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> Why???


I need more then just two aquabus connections.


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> I need more then just two aquabus connections.


All you have to do is use splitters, 4 pin y's or a 4 pin splitter!! On phonr or i would link you


----------



## jvillaveces

Why is everybody giving @roamin such a hard time for pointing out the obvious? Aquacomputer Manuals are notorious for being incomplete, obscure, and ambiguous. One can debate whether they should be better or whether it's up to the user to figure things out, but the abysmal quality of the manuals is a well established fact. I, for one, believe that technology products should either come with a proper manual or point the user to a thorough, reliable online source for information and instructions!


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> All you have to do is use splitters, 4 pin y's or a 4 pin splitter!! On phonr or i would link you


That will work, However Since I have two Flow meters and only One flow input. Kind hit a wall with that(Why I was going with Poweradjust), Plus I need an extra Temp sensor.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jvillaveces*
> 
> Why is everybody giving @roamin such a hard time for pointing out the obvious? Aquacomputer Manuals are notorious for being incomplete, obscure, and ambiguous. One can debate whether they should be better or whether it's up to the user to figure things out, but the abysmal quality of the manuals is a well established fact. I, for one, believe that technology products should either come with a proper manual or point the user to a thorough, reliable online source for information and instructions!


you asked

this is why i believe you are wrong

 

and YOU Need to make an informed decision . not aqua computer.


----------



## GTXJackBauer

I think some responses here have been a bit aggressive to some extent. I think we're all here to help each other out is all.


----------



## inoran81

just realise.... somehow, i'm not part of this club yet...



excluding my GIGANT 1680 with aquaero 6 Pro and copper fins AMS (360mm x3pcs, 480mm x4pcs, 280mm x1pc, 140mm x1pc)

add me in...


----------



## -MrE-

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *inoran81*
> 
> just realise.... somehow, i'm not part of this club yet...
> 
> 
> 
> excluding my GIGANT 1680 with aquaero 6 Pro and copper fins AMS (360mm x3pcs, 480mm x4pcs, 280mm x1pc, 140mm x1pc)
> 
> add me in...


HEY! I might need that, send me some would ya


----------



## V I P E R

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GTXJackBauer*
> 
> I think some responses here have been a bit aggressive to some extent. I think we're all here to help each other out is all.


I believed that, but since no one cares to answer my question back in a few pages I don't think that I'll be getting Aquaero at all. I'm not going to invest more than 300 Euro in product with no support or proper explanation if it is going to handle all my things. I'm using Lamptron CW611 and I wanted to replace it, but I don't think it's a good idea anymore.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *V I P E R*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *GTXJackBauer*
> 
> I think some responses here have been a bit aggressive to some extent. I think we're all here to help each other out is all.
> 
> 
> 
> I believed that, but since no one cares to answer my question back in a few pages I don't think that I'll be getting Aquaero at all. I'm not going to invest more than 300 Euro in product with no support or proper explanation if it is going to handle all my things. I'm using Lamptron CW611 and I wanted to replace it, but I don't think it's a good idea anymore.
Click to expand...

Let me jump in here for a moment and remind everyone that this IS NOT AC's Tech Support . . . .

We are a group of folks who have used most, if not pretty much all, the AC products aggregately, who have come together to try to offer user's / laymen's level support to each other by sharing what we have gleaned from reading and experimentation.

Shoggy has been great at coming in to answer the "tough ones".
















All of us have real life jobs and responsibilities, which often limit how much time we have to try to hand-hold new or prospective users.

If you come in with a wall of text and a dozen questions, most of which the answers to can be easily found in the manual or with the search function, then you need to realize that in this thread, as in most others with a lot of experienced participants, that the best way to get help, is to show that you've done your homework, and at least understand the basics.

Most people try to help others proportionately to how much it looks like they have tried to help themselves . .

The tone of a conversation has a lot to do with how responses are phrased.

If someone asks for help in a griping manner, and is / becomes defensive of that attitude, the replies are going to typically be more aggressive . . . that's life people . . that's human nature . . . . the more your kid / wife / boss / co-worker pesters you, the more curt your responses become. . . especially if they don't seem to be "getting it".

If VIPER can't figure out that the A6 will blow his 611 into the weeds, he should probably stay with his 611.

If roamin wants his rig to work as he wants, he has to suck it up and reconnect the USB

Sometimes we just need to get used to the world not being farcking convenient.

The A6 is the most amazing controller out there, expect a steep learning curve to leverage it's vast versatility and capabilities.

[/rant]

Darlene


----------



## ruffhi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *inoran81*
> 
> just realise.... somehow, i'm not part of this club yet...
> 
> excluding my GIGANT 1680 with aquaero 6 Pro and copper fins AMS (360mm x3pcs, 480mm x4pcs, 280mm x1pc, 140mm x1pc)
> 
> add me in...


This doesn't seem fair. All those boxes could be empty. We can't let him join the club just because he snagged a picture of a stack of empty boxes from somewhere on the interwebs.

But seriously ... that is a lot of boxes, David. Welcome.


----------



## inoran81

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ruffhi*
> 
> This doesn't seem fair. All those boxes could be empty. We can't let him join the club just because he snagged a picture of a stack of empty boxes from somewhere on the interwebs.
> 
> But seriously ... that is a lot of boxes, David. Welcome.


Thanks bud... for more information on whether the boxes are empty or filled... you can head to this URL below... though it's rather lengthy thread....









http://forums.vr-zone.com/case-modding-project-logs/2882621-project-ov-i-sm8-dual-peds-r4be-tri-titans-aqc-bitspower-caselabs-demciflex-ekwb.html

Glad to have you guys in this ocn thread that I know I can count on...


----------



## V I P E R

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Let me jump in here for a moment and remind everyone that this IS NOT AC's Tech Support . . . .
> 
> We are a group of folks who have used most, if not pretty much all, the AC products aggregately, who have come together to try to offer user's / laymen's level support to each other by sharing what we have gleaned from reading and experimentation.
> 
> Shoggy has been great at coming in to answer the "tough ones".
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> All of us have real life jobs and responsibilities, which often limit how much time we have to try to hand-hold new or prospective users.
> 
> If you come in with a wall of text and a dozen questions, most of which the answers to can be easily found in the manual or with the search function, then you need to realize that in this thread, as in most others with a lot of experienced participants, that the best way to get help, is to show that you've done your homework, and at least understand the basics.
> 
> Most people try to help others proportionately to how much it looks like they have tried to help themselves . .
> 
> The tone of a conversation has a lot to do with how responses are phrased.
> 
> If someone asks for help in a griping manner, and is / becomes defensive of that attitude, the replies are going to typically be more aggressive . . . that's life people . . that's human nature . . . . the more your kid / wife / boss / co-worker pesters you, the more curt your responses become. . . especially if they don't seem to be "getting it".
> 
> If VIPER can't figure out that the A6 will blow his 611 into the weeds, he should probably stay with his 611.
> 
> If roamin wants his rig to work as he wants, he has to suck it up and reconnect the USB
> 
> Sometimes we just need to get used to the world not being farcking convenient.
> 
> The A6 is the most amazing controller out there, expect a steep learning curve to leverage it's vast versatility and capabilities.
> 
> [/rant]
> 
> Darlene


I know that Aquaero 6 is good controller, but I have specific questions regarding the possibilities of it that I can't find the answer for and that is why I asked here hoping that someone can give me an answer. Believe me I've read the entire thread and I couldn't find the answers that I'm looking and buying the device and then figure out that I have to buy more things (poweradjust, farbwerk etc.) is simply not an option for me, because shipping in Europe is expensive (for example the shipping of only the Aquaero 6 XT + bank taxes to my country will be more than 50 Euro) and if I have to make 2-3 orders to collect all the parts needed the total amount will be very high.


----------



## Mega Man

Fine. I will try and get some time today to help you.

Diva is right and as usual as eloquent as she always is
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *inoran81*
> 
> just realise.... somehow, i'm not part of this club yet...
> 
> 
> 
> excluding my GIGANT 1680 with aquaero 6 Pro and copper fins AMS (360mm x3pcs, 480mm x4pcs, 280mm x1pc, 140mm x1pc)
> 
> add me in...


............ . Ok I am jelly....


----------



## Bogga

I hear what Diva is saying, totally understand this aint no "state your question and we will get back to you" kind of place. But at the same time I totally understand Viper as well... the instructions for the aquaero and where and how to find out how these things work are a mystery sometimes.

But I still love this damn thing and wont give up on it! So I guess I'll come back here to post some stupid questions every now and then hoping for some nice soul that sits on and answer for it


----------



## outofmyheadyo

I`ve had the aquaero 6 pro sitting unused for months now, I got it with a case I bought but it did not come with any cables, If I want to use software to regulate the fans rather than the buttons on the aquaero itself wich one of these 2 cables do I need ? I think this but what is the Aquabus cable for ?
Have plenty of PWM splitters for all my fans + temp sensors, but I thought I would try out the software part of it.


----------



## Mega Man

You need a 5 (or 4) pin usb cable. (Dupont connector) i believe it is the first link but I am on mobile and atm pics are not loading fast.

Please note you will need an open internal usb 2.0 header to use this, and proper orientation is important

The aquabus is an internal network for aquacomputer products only. (Assuming they support it)


----------



## outofmyheadyo

Okay thats all i wanted dont have any other aqua products so i dont need the aquabus thingie


----------



## roamin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jvillaveces*
> 
> Why is everybody giving @roamin such a hard time for pointing out the obvious? Aquacomputer Manuals are notorious for being incomplete, obscure, and ambiguous. One can debate whether they should be better or whether it's up to the user to figure things out, but the abysmal quality of the manuals is a well established fact. I, for one, believe that technology products should either come with a proper manual or point the user to a thorough, reliable online source for information and instructions!


thanks @jvillaveces









shoggy should revision all manuals saying you must google to learn how to use our products lol.
















Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> you asked
> 
> this is why i believe you are wrong
> 
> 
> 
> and YOU Need to make an informed decision . not aqua computer.


yeah true it doesnt have a brain. we know this. so you do what the manual tells you, thats the actual point of a manual if you were not sure what there for, they have been telling you how to do things for years, amazing huh?
i set all products to priority of aqauabus via usb and made sure the ports dont overlap between devices as that is what the manual told me to do. how am i to know the manual is only 50% done?

next time i read a manual i will think how your telling me too
you know what i better get online because i feel like the manual is not complete because the manufacturer couldn't be bothered to tell the customer how it works properly.









make an informed decision? i and many others have. its usually a common decision too, its called read the manual that the company who designed said items has written and supplied with the product to tell you how to use your item. if its a $5 item from china, yeah i dont expect manuals, high end products from germany who are known as some of the best manufacturers in the world i would expect there manuals to be accurate when it costs a lot more then china's rip off products.

ever heard of RTFM? have a think of why that abbreviation has been around for years and years.

we will disagree until the end of time by the looks of it. each has there own opinion. i like manuals to be complete, you dont think manufacturers should supply a complete manual and its the customers fault for not knowing its complete.


----------



## rmarudas

Count me in! Aquaero 6xt


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *roamin*
> 
> thanks @jvillaveces
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> shoggy should revision all manuals saying you must google to learn how to use our products lol.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> yeah true it doesnt have a brain. we know this. so you do what the manual tells you, thats the actual point of a manual if you were not sure what there for, they have been telling you how to do things for years, amazing huh?
> i set all products to priority of aqauabus via usb and made sure the ports dont overlap between devices as that is what the manual told me to do. how am i to know the manual is only 50% done?
> 
> next time i read a manual i will think how your telling me too
> you know what i better get online because i feel like the manual is not complete because the manufacturer couldn't be bothered to tell the customer how it works properly.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> make an informed decision? i and many others have. its usually a common decision too, its called read the manual that the company who designed said items has written and supplied with the product to tell you how to use your item. if its a $5 item from china, yeah i dont expect manuals, high end products from germany who are known as some of the best manufacturers in the world i would expect there manuals to be accurate when it costs a lot more then china's rip off products.
> 
> ever heard of RTFM? have a think of why that abbreviation has been around for years and years.
> 
> we will disagree until the end of time by the looks of it. each has there own opinion. i like manuals to be complete, you dont think manufacturers should supply a complete manual and its the customers fault for not knowing its complete.


If they supplied a complete manual it would make the cost go up a lot, this is a niche product designed for a small group that helps each other , this how I learned and a lot of reading, research, asking questions and by doing


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *V I P E R*
> 
> Hello,
> 
> I decided that is time to try the Aquaero 6XT, but I have a few questions before I make my purchase.
> 
> The parts that I'm going to need to control are:
> 20 x Sunon fans with the following specs:
> 
> Size (mm): 120x120x25
> Rated voltage: 12VDC
> Operating voltage range: 6-13.8 VDC
> Rated current: 451 mA / Max 519 mA
> Rated power Consumption ( W ): 5.40 W / Max 6.22 W
> Starting voltage: 6VDC
> Air flow: (m3/h): 183.8
> Rated speed: (RPM): 3100
> Static pressure (cm-H2O): 0.71
> Wiring: 3-wire (Frequency Generator)
> Automatic restart: Yes
> 
> You can check detail specifications of the fans here: SUNON
> 
> The pumps that I have are: EK-BAY RES Dual DDC 3.25 Serial (incl. pump)
> 
> 
> The pump used in the res/pump combo is this type: EK-DDC 3.25 (12V DC pump)
> 
> It has the following technical specs:
> 
> - Dimensions (W x D x H): 90 x 62 x 38 mm
> - Motor: Electronically commuted ball bearing motor
> - Rated voltage: 12 V DC
> - Power consumption: 20 W
> - Maximum head pressure: up to 7.0m
> - Maximum flow rate: up to 1000 L/h
> - Maximum liquid temperature: 60°C
> - Materials: Stainless steel, PPS-GF40, EPDM O-rings, Aluminium oxide, hard coal
> - Power connector: 4-Pin Molex- and 3-Pin DC FAN connector
> 
> My concern is whether I'm going to be able to control all the fans and pumps with the aquaero 6 xt or I will have to buy the poweradjust 3 USB ultra version.
> 
> I plan to purchase the farbwerk USB, Bluetooth and aquabus version to control about 2 meters of RGB LED strip.
> 
> I also want to monitor 4 temps with inline temp sensors and have one flow sensor, but I don't know which one to choose and is the Aquaero going to handle all of fans, pumps and sensors.
> 
> For now I think to order the aquaero 6 XT USB fan controller + Front plate for aquaero 5 und 6 XT aluminum black + Passive heat sink for aquaero 6, red + Replacement front new design for aquaero 5 und 6 XT (red LEDs), but if I have to purchase something else please tell me so I don't have to pay again for shipping.
> 
> Thank you in advance for the help.


You have 30w per channel, so an absolute max of 5 fans per channel which will still go over your max. I would recommend doing 4 per channel. The heatsink will give you a little room. If you want to push it is a personal choice to make.

You will need 1 power adj power pump. And I would put 4 fans on another .

I would recommend either making our purchasing another aquabus wire (per additional adj. ) unless they come with it (i don't think they do but idk)

You get one 3 pin (male to male fan connector) that you can use for either aquabus or rpm signal (fake signal sent to mobo used generally on the cpu fan header to tell the pc to shut off in case of alarm) i would use that for said rpm signal

The temp sensors are np. The just need to be 2 pin (and iirc 10k ohm )connector (Dupont) you have up to 8 with more on the power adjusts.

The flow sensor is personal. How precise do you want. I would go with aquacomputer. The high flow/ high flow usb needs and needs no calibration. The MPS sensors are not super accurate unless calibrated. Of course you don't need super calibrated. So personal preference.

If you get the high flow ones they may tick!!! You will need a flow sensor cable for the non usb high flow. A aquabus cable for either of the high flow usb or MPS sensors....

Anything else I missed?


----------



## MadHatter5045

My new 6XT came in today







add me to the club please!


----------



## roamin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> If they supplied a complete manual it would make the cost go up a lot, this is a niche product designed for a small group that helps each other , this how I learned and a lot of reading, research, asking questions and by doing


this might be common sense or logic or what ever you call it.

BUT

heres a great idea to save even more money if the 50c more to print the complete manual is such a huge expense!!!!

dont supply a manual at all! supply 1 small sheet of paper explaining that the manual is available for download in pdf on there website at this address. (complete with all information)
guess i will hear people backing them up saying but bandwidth for the download will cost the company too much hahahaha

did you buy an aquaero 5 xt when they came out? they came with a piece of paper stating that the software was in beta and so on. that must have cost them heaps to print lol. but it informed the customer of the situation, well done to AC for doing that at the time when the software was in beta.









do the same thing for the manual. its not rocket science. there is NO excuse for not supplying a complete manual


----------



## InfoSeeker

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *roamin*
> 
> this might be common sense or logic or what ever you call it.
> 
> BUT
> 
> heres a great idea to save even more money if the 50c more to print the complete manual is such a huge expense!!!!
> 
> dont supply a manual at all! supply 1 small sheet of paper explaining that the manual is available for download in pdf on there website at this address. (complete with all information)
> guess i will hear people backing them up saying but bandwidth for the download will cost the company too much hahahaha
> 
> did you buy an aquaero 5 xt when they came out? they came with a piece of paper stating that the software was in beta and so on. that must have cost them heaps to print lol. but it informed the customer of the situation, well done to AC for doing that at the time when the software was in beta.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> do the same thing for the manual. its not rocket science. there is NO excuse for not supplying a complete manual


We get it... you think there should be a more comprehensive manual.
You have made that point many... many... many times now.
And most here acknowledged the fact that the documentation is sparse.

But then that's the beauty of capitalism... if you are displeased with a product, don't purchase it.
If your priority is the manual, then purchase something that is accompanied with a HUGE, shiny manual.
It is not rocket science.


----------



## roamin

Lol i would. But i needed to purchase it before i could see the manual. Catch 22.


----------



## Shoggy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *roamin*
> 
> dont supply a manual at all! supply 1 small sheet of paper explaining that the manual is available for download in pdf on there website


Which brings us just back to the RTFM thing


----------



## Mega Man

i have given up on him shoggy, 99% of these questions ARE In the manual
but most wont read them, or even attempt to google them


----------



## InfoSeeker

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *roamin*
> 
> Lol i would. But i needed to purchase it before i could see the manual. Catch 22.


Actually not a Catch 22 roamin, all aquacomputer manuals can be found HERE without purchasing anything.


----------



## lovan6

I need help and guide how to set up an Aquaero 5 LT on my hackintosh. I am currently dual booting on 2 separate SSD OSX and Windows 10.

Currently my setup are as follow:

3 Gentle Typhoon AP 15 for my 360 radiator cooling a single GPU and CPU
3 Corsair 140mm fan none PWM
Swiftech 8 fan splitter
EKWB D5 PWM G2 pump

Currently my GT AP 15 were plug to Swiftech fan control and together with EKWB D5 G2 pump but no way to control the fans. I have a NZXT sentry 3 lying around and tried to plug the fans and was able to control it but I can't rely on its durability and thinking of buying the Aquaero.

List of parts I want to buy:

Aquaero 5LT

Heatsink

Aqua computer 5.25 bay mount

Aquacomputer Real Time Clock push-on module

Aquacomputer Aquaero power connect - 24 pin ATX standby power

Aquacomputer plug 3pol. for relay output

My motherboard is a Gigabyte GA-Z97 UD3H Black and have use up all USB 2.0 connections. I can temporary disable the USB 2.0 port to setup Aquaero 5 LT with Aquasuite and unplug after setup.


----------



## Mega Man

What do you plan on doing with the relay?


----------



## lovan6

I am not sure if the relay is vital part. It was a suggestion for the Aquaero power connect - 24 pin ATX standby power in order to work is to use relay. My objective is to use the LT independently after setting Aquasuite since I no longer have a USB 2.0 available on my motherboard. Also OSX is kinda finicky if there is a standby USB as it affects sleep and wake function.


----------



## Bogga

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> Which brings us just back to the RTFM thing


That is one part I for one missed









But I have to say that the help received from here is priceless since most questions are a bit specific


----------



## s74r1

Looks like I'm joining the club since there's no decent hardware based PWM controllers with temp sensor input so I ordered a Aquaero 6 Pro even though it's overkill for this purpose.

Starting to consider using some of it's other features and have a few questions:
(Apologies if this has been discussed before, I searched this thread and elsewhere but couldn't find info on some)

*Flow Meters:* I read Koolance shows as rpm on Aquaero but also read that some flow meters make noise? Which ones are quietest for a silent rig? AQ brand ones are pricey but reads properly on Aquaero as flow but I don't mind simple RPM if it'll save me a lot of money.
*Temp sensor accuracy:* I read that some (like a few of the AQ ones) are inaccurate on temp, anyone have recommendations on an accurate temp sensor? Or are my current one(s) fine? I have a Bitspower plug w/ probe I was planning on sticking in a T block or I could use my Phobya M-F extension temp sensor thingy. Or I guess I could try both...
*LCD color:* Has anyone managed to change the white LCD color? Maybe some red or blue transparent plastic film could work? PRO model only had white option, from what I saw.
Also, has anyone modded a NZXT H440 (or similar) to mount an Aquaero? I searched the NZXT thread and Google images but couldn't find much. I'd like to at least have the LCD visible but there's no drive bays. I'm thinking it could fit in the PSU bay acrylic cover, or remove the 5.25" sides on the Aquaero and stick it to part of the case somewhere but I don't really mind if I have to use it hidden somewhere, this would just be a bonus.


----------



## wa3pnt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *s74r1*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Temp sensor accuracy:* I read that some (like a few of the AQ ones) are inaccurate on temp, anyone have recommendations on an accurate temp sensor? Or are my current one(s) fine? I have a Bitspower plug w/ probe I was planning on sticking in a T block or I could use my Phobya M-F extension temp sensor thingy. Or I guess I could try both...


This is what I do to calibrate the Hardware Temperature Sensors.

I have all the Hardware Sensors listed on the Information Pages of the Aquaero, so that they are displayed when the system is off.

I place a known good, calibrated thermometer inside the case.

After the system has been off for at least 24 hours, with the side panels removed, I check the calibrated thermometer and record the temperature.

Before turning the system on, I then scroll through each of the Hardware Temperature Sensors, and write down their readings, and calculate the DELTA.

Then fire up the system and under Aquaero>Sensors>Temperature sensors I change the OFFSET (using the DELTA between the calibrated thermometer and the Sensor reading) to adjust the Sensor reading to agree with the calibrated thermometer.

Note, that when you fire up the system the Hardware Temperature Sensors will no longer be reading the ambient temperature, so repeat the 24 hour off sequence to verify that all the temperatures are now correct.

RodeoGeorge


----------



## Mega Man

You can always just dunk them in ice water. Easiest way to calibrate


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lovan6*
> 
> I am not sure if the relay is vital part. It was a suggestion for the Aquaero power connect - 24 pin ATX standby power in order to work is to use relay. My objective is to use the LT independently after setting Aquasuite since I no longer have a USB 2.0 available on my motherboard. Also OSX is kinda finicky if there is a standby USB as it affects sleep and wake function.


AFAIK the 5 does not need the relay as it had a2 pin header


----------



## jvillaveces

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> You can always just dunk them in ice water. Easiest way to calibrate


Mega, would you care to elaborate?
Step 1: dunk them in ice water
Step 2?...
Do yoiu just assume the ice water will be at freezing temperature? Do you measure it?


----------



## lovan6

The Aquaero power connect - 24 pin ATX standby power have a 5 volts 2 wire which I plug to the 5LT 2 pin header. Since I plan to purchase the Aquacomputer Real Time Clock push-on module what is the purpose of the module? Is this something like a CMOS battery on a motherboard to keep date/time and settings?


----------



## InfoSeeker

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lovan6*
> 
> The Aquaero power connect - 24 pin ATX standby power have a 5 volts 2 wire which I plug to the 5LT 2 pin header. Since I plan to purchase the Aquacomputer Real Time Clock push-on module what is the purpose of the module? Is this something like a CMOS battery on a motherboard to keep date/time and settings?


Snippet from the Real Time Clock expansion module for aquaero 5 und 6 product page:
Quote:


> Expansion module for aquaero 5 XT/PRO/LT and aquaero 6 XT/PRO (not included). The Real Time Clock expansion module supplements your existing aquaero with a battery buffered real time clock, especially interesting for aquaero controllers that do not have a permanent USB connection to a PC.


----------



## Shoggy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> You can always just dunk them in ice water. Easiest way to calibrate


I can not recommend to do this. The aquaero works with a calibration curve to convert the raw ADC values into temperature values that a human can understand. This curve has a sweet spot somewhere in the range of about 20 to 50°C since we think this is the most useful range. If you exceed this range on both ends you will still get a reasonable value but the larger the difference, the larger the difference to the real temperature will be. So if you want to calibrate the sensors it is not really a good idea to use a temperature that already provides "bad" base values


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jvillaveces*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> You can always just dunk them in ice water. Easiest way to calibrate
> 
> 
> 
> Mega, would you care to elaborate?
> Step 1: dunk them in ice water
> Step 2?...
> Do yoiu just assume the ice water will be at freezing temperature? Do you measure it?
Click to expand...

no need to assume, this is how you calibrate thermometers

when you have a glass of ice water ( full of ice. full of water) the water is 32 deg f or 0c ) however see below

for more info google how to calibrate a thermometer
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> You can always just dunk them in ice water. Easiest way to calibrate
> 
> 
> 
> I can not recommend to do this. The aquaero works with a calibration curve to convert the raw ADC values into temperature values that a human can understand. This curve has a sweet spot somewhere in the range of about 20 to 50°C since we think this is the most useful range. If you exceed this range on both ends you will still get a reasonable value but the larger the difference, the larger the difference to the real temperature will be. So if you want to calibrate the sensors it is not really a good idea to use a temperature that already provides "bad" base values
Click to expand...

ok, as always refer to shat shoggy says

in this case it would be better to calibrate another thermometer to the ice water and use that inside your case to calibrate the rest
IE a meat thermometer or w.e.


----------



## jvillaveces

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *jvillaveces*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> You can always just dunk them in ice water. Easiest way to calibrate
> 
> 
> 
> Mega, would you care to elaborate?
> Step 1: dunk them in ice water
> Step 2?...
> Do yoiu just assume the ice water will be at freezing temperature? Do you measure it?
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> no need to assume, this is how you calibrate thermometers
> 
> when you have a glass of ice water ( full of ice. full of water) the water is 32 deg f or 0c ) however see below
> 
> for more info google how to calibrate a thermometer
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> You can always just dunk them in ice water. Easiest way to calibrate
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> I can not recommend to do this. The aquaero works with a calibration curve to convert the raw ADC values into temperature values that a human can understand. This curve has a sweet spot somewhere in the range of about 20 to 50°C since we think this is the most useful range. If you exceed this range on both ends you will still get a reasonable value but the larger the difference, the larger the difference to the real temperature will be. So if you want to calibrate the sensors it is not really a good idea to use a temperature that already provides "bad" base values
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> ok, as always refer to shat shoggy says
> 
> in this case it would be better to calibrate another thermometer to the ice water and use that inside your case to calibrate the rest
> IE a meat thermometer or w.e.
Click to expand...

Thank you that is really useful


----------



## Ranma13

I'm having a problem with my Aquaero 6 and the RTC module I purchased recently. Whenever I turn off my power supply and turn it back on, the Aquaero resets the time back to January 4, 2014 2:00 PM. I checked the battery voltage (2.97V) and all 4 pin connections between the RTC module and the Aquabus header using a multimeter, and they're all good. I believe the module is defective, but is there another way to check for sure?

Edit: I noticed that the negative terminal for the battery was missing solder to connect it to the pad, so I soldered it on and verified that it's now connected to the 3 other pads that are linked from it:



but still no dice.


----------



## golfleep

I have the same issue as you, turning off standby power resets the aquaero clock, even with the RTC module installed. I was under the impression that the RTC module would allow the aquaero to keep time even when disconnected from power. But.... after reading the manual (like, who does that







), it says, down at the bottom:

NOTICE: Communication between the aquaero controller and the RTC module requires 12 V and 5 V power supply to the aquaero! Therefore, communication is not possible during standby!

which I interpreted as meaning the RTC is only useful in keeping time when there is not a continuous USB connection, but doesn't allow the aquaero to keep time when power is completely removed, which negates the whole purpose of the RTC to me. If the aquaero is connected to 12v and 5V, shouldn't it be able to keep time on it's own even without a USB connection and the RTC?


----------



## Ranma13

That's the thing, I'm realizing now that it's not altogether clear what the RTC module actually does. The item description says:
Quote:


> The Real Time Clock expansion module supplements your existing aquaero with a battery buffered real time clock, especially interesting for aquaero controllers that do not have a permanent USB connection to a PC.


But it doesn't explain what "especially interesting" means. By "battery buffered real time clock", I'd imagine that most of us expects this to be a like a CMOS battery in that it keeps the time even when there's no power connected. But then there's that second part of the description:
Quote:


> NOTICE: Communication between the aquaero controller and the RTC module requires 12 V and 5 V power supply to the aquaero! Therefore, communication is not possible during standby!


Which makes it really confusing what it actually does.


----------



## MadHatter5045

Now that I've got the Aquaero up and running I've been looking at getting a Farbwerk. What would be the advantages of connecting the Farbwerk to the Aquaero via aquabus?


----------



## Revan654

Quick Question: Whats the advantage of getting the Aquacomputer Flow Rate Sensor "High Flow USB" over the standard version(What other feature does it have that non-USB does not, Minus the obvious)?

Allot of the images are in German from Suite software(Which I can't read since it's in German). I can't really tell if USB or normal version would be better for my build.


----------



## fast_fate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> Quick Question: Whats the advantage of getting the Aquacomputer Flow Rate Sensor "High Flow USB" over the standard version(What other feature does it have that non-USB does not, Minus the obvious)?
> 
> Allot of the images are in German from Suite software(Which I can't read since it's in German). I can't really tell if USB or normal version would be better for my build.


I would assume the USB version is mostly for systems which do NOT have an Aquaero, but the user wishes to monitor flow rate (via Aqua Suite), execute alarm/shut down ect.


----------



## AllGamer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fast_fate*
> 
> I would assume the USB version is mostly for systems which do NOT have an Aquaero, but the user wishes to monitor flow rate (via Aqua Suite), execute alarm/shut down ect.


Yup! that's why I got 3 of them









I didn't really need the fancy features of the 6 XT

just the basic flow, temp, and shutdown in case of problems.

The best thing is, they are relatively small, the size of a Samsung fast charger plug.
Like fittings they are a little bit heavy, not the best idea to have it hanging by the tubes, but they can nicely sit anywhere at the bottom of the case or attached to the wall of the case.

I'm planning to use 3M double Velcro sticks to keep them in place https://www.homedepot.ca/en/home/p.velcro-industrial-strength-10-ft-x-2-in-tape.1000405179.html
these are super strong easy to use, and easy to cut to size


----------



## roamin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MadHatter5045*
> 
> 
> 
> Now that I've got the Aquaero up and running I've been looking at getting a Farbwerk. What would be the advantages of connecting the Farbwerk to the Aquaero via aquabus?


with the farbwerk via aquabus it allows you to set the colours via temp and so on. so when your temps are low you can make it blue, as it gets hotter it will transition to another colour, red for example.
if you are after fixed colors then you dont need aquabus.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fast_fate*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> Quick Question: Whats the advantage of getting the Aquacomputer Flow Rate Sensor "High Flow USB" over the standard version(What other feature does it have that non-USB does not, Minus the obvious)?
> 
> Allot of the images are in German from Suite software(Which I can't read since it's in German). I can't really tell if USB or normal version would be better for my build.
> 
> 
> 
> I would assume the USB version is mostly for systems which do NOT have an Aquaero, but the user wishes to monitor flow rate (via Aqua Suite), execute alarm/shut down ect.
Click to expand...

also the usb allows for 2+ flow sensors (aquaero only has 1)


----------



## GTXJackBauer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> also the usb allows for 2+ flow sensors (aquaero only has 1)


Aquaero can handle 2 once channel one is switched. Of course if the non-USB high flow sensor is used.


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> also the usb allows for 2+ flow sensors (aquaero only has 1)


I have only one loop. Not sure I need more then one in a single run.

Not to mention USB versions is allot more expensive.


----------



## MadHatter5045

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *roamin*
> 
> with the farbwerk via aquabus it allows you to set the colours via temp and so on. so when your temps are low you can make it blue, as it gets hotter it will transition to another colour, red for example.
> if you are after fixed colors then you dont need aquabus.


Thanks for the info! +Rep


----------



## Revan654

Quick Question: Would I be able to use MPS Flow 400 with dual pumps & Dual Res(Single Loop)? little confused on the break down between the versions.


----------



## InfoSeeker

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> Quick Question: Would I be able to use MPS Flow 400 with dual pumps & Dual Res(Single Loop)? little confused on the break down between the versions.


Yes... provisionally.

The combination of pumps, reservoirs, flow sensor and other devices may not require more than 4 MPS addresses.

If you had two aquacomputer D5 pumps with USB, 2 reservoirs without integrated MPS level sensors and the MPS flow 400, you would be OK.


----------



## Revan654

1. Can I daisy Chain Aquabus Y cables together so I can connect four aquabus devices to the Aquaero? Or is the only option buying a poweradjust?
2. Since aquacomputer USB connectors are not full USB connectors, Is it possible to place two aquacomputer USB device in one USB 2.0 port?


----------



## InfoSeeker

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> 1. Can I daisy Chain Aquabus Y cables together so I can connect four aquabus devices to the Aquaero? Or is the only option buying a poweradjust?
> 2. Since aquacomputer USB connectors are not full USB connectors, Is it possible to place two aquacomputer USB device in one USB 2.0 port?


1. Yes. Use three of the aquabus Y-connector 4 pins, and you can have 4 aquabus devices connected into the aquaero aquabus high port.

2. aquacomputer USB ports are standard USB ports. You can use a HUBBY7 internal USB 2.0 Hub to expand one motherboard internal USB 2.0 header into 7 USB 2.0 headers.


----------



## valvehead

Quote:

Originally Posted by *Revan654* 

2. Since aquacomputer USB connectors are not full USB connectors, Is it possible to place two aquacomputer USB device in one USB 2.0 port?

Yes, you can fit two of those USB connectors into one USB 2.0 header on the motherboard. No need to buy a hub unless you have multiple devices and not enough headers available.


----------



## jvillaveces

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> 1. Can I daisy Chain Aquabus Y cables together so I can connect four aquabus devices to the Aquaero? Or is the only option buying a poweradjust?
> 2. Since aquacomputer USB connectors are not full USB connectors, Is it possible to place two aquacomputer USB device in one USB 2.0 port?


1. Yes you can. That's how I ran my system (Aquaero 6 Pro, Farbwerk, 2x D5 USB pumps, USB Flow Sensor) for over a year. A few weeks ago I tore out all the y adapters and replaced them with a Splitty9. Just make sure you use 3 or 4 pin aquabus cables as appropriate. Not all MPS devices will work with 3-pins (I don't remember which do or don't), so I just use all 4-pin.

2. Yes you can. You can also use an NZXT USB hub or the new Aquacomputer Hubby7. As far as I can tell, the main difference is that the NZXT is powered by molex and the AC by Sata. This sort of hub will allow room for expansion and they're not too expensive, so that would be the preferred approach if you have space in your case.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> 1. Can I daisy Chain Aquabus Y cables together so I can connect four aquabus devices to the Aquaero? Or is the only option buying a poweradjust?
> 2. Since aquacomputer USB connectors are not full USB connectors, Is it possible to place two aquacomputer USB device in one USB 2.0 port?


the usb head is actually 2 ports ( a port is only 4 pins, the 5th is just a shield wire ) - aquacomputer uses only 1 of these ports per equip


----------



## wa3pnt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *s74r1*
> 
> 2. Since aquacomputer USB connectors are not full USB connectors, Is it possible to place two aquacomputer USB device in one USB 2.0 port?


To answer this part of your question directly, Yes.
The USB Headers on the motherboard are for two USB devices or ports.
The Aquacomputer cables are single USB connections, and you can connect two of them to a USB Header.
Just take care that the polarity (orientation) is correct.

RodeoGeorge


----------



## InfoSeeker

An electrical pathing question.

I am currently flushing some rads, and I wanted to be able to turn the pump off/on when I stopped to clean the filter.

So I bought this OKGEAR Molex switch thinking it would do what I wanted. It is a simple pass-thru with the 5V & 12V pins direct connected between the two connectors, the 2 ground pins on each connector tied to each other, and the ground pass-thru is routed through the switch.

Color me surprised, but the pump runs whether the switch is open or closed. I checked the pass-thru for continuity, and the grounds between the two connectors are open when the switch is open, and continuous when the switch is closed.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *InfoSeeker*
> 
> An electrical pathing question.
> 
> I am currently flushing some rads, and I wanted to be able to turn the pump off/on when I stopped to clean the filter.
> 
> So I bought this OKGEAR Molex switch thinking it would do what I wanted. It is a simple pass-thru with the 5V & 12V pins direct connected between the two connectors, the 2 ground pins on each connector tied to each other, and the ground pass-thru is routed through the switch.
> 
> Color me surprised, but the pump runs whether the switch is open or closed. I checked the pass-thru for continuity, and the grounds between the two connectors are open when the switch is open, and continuous when the switch is closed.


Is any other cable/connector from the pump plugged into the mobo or anything, it could be completing a ground circuit that way, essentially bypassing the switched wire, making the switch useless.


----------



## InfoSeeker

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Is any other cable/connector from the pump plugged into the mobo or anything, it could be completing a ground circuit that way, essentially bypassing the switched wire, making the switch useless.


Let me finish painting the picture.

The flush loop is external, by itself, consisting of:
pump top - EK-D5 Dual TOP G1/4 CSQ - Acetal, sitting on a wooden desk
pumps - two Aqua Computer D5 pump motor with USB and aquabus interface
The two pumps are connected by a Y-splitter to the pass thru, which is connected to the PSU on a PC
Both pumps' USB connections, and the flow sensor's USB connection attach to a Hubby7 which is connected to the same PC as the PSU

The Y-splitter would have the two pumps commons tied together... but that shouldn't make a path?
Guess I can pull one pump off the splitter and see what happens.

Edit: that appears to have been the path... pulled one pump and the remaining pump follows the switch.
Can I do something "simple" to make the switch work with the pumps tied in parallel?

ReEdit: I tried plugging in the second pump again, and now both appear to follow the switch. Maybe the switch is flaky.

As Roseanne Roseannadanna used to say - never mind.

ReReEdit: no, I checked the switch, it was good.
The culprit is the USB connection. It appears the pumps 12V ground can path through the USB's ground.
mhmmm, so one can power the pump with one wire only, if the USB connection is live. Wonder if that presents other problems?


----------



## rolldog

Speaking about getting help on this forum, I'm trying to finish up my lighting, and I was wondering it I could run a line from one of my leftover PWM fan connectors, run it to a PCs splitter, where I'll have some 2 pin single color LED strips, and use the fan controller on the Aquaero to power the LEDs and let me dim, or turn of the LEDs completely. Any ideas?


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rolldog*
> 
> Speaking about getting help on this forum, I'm trying to finish up my lighting, and I was wondering it I could run a line from one of my leftover PWM fan connectors, run it to a PCs splitter, where I'll have some 2 pin single color LED strips, and use the fan controller on the Aquaero to power the LEDs and let me dim, or turn of the LEDs completely. Any ideas?


If I'm reading the question correctly;

You essentially want to use the PWM pin on an unused A6 fan channel to power single color LED strips that just have 2 wires . . . .

_If_ that's what you're wanting to do, the answer is no, at least not directly.

If you used a "N" Channel mosfet with a logic level gate, and did a slightly modified Diva Mod to drive it from a fan port, it could then be used to dim a 2 wire LED strip, (or several of them)

You'd want to run +12V to the strip's +, and then the - to the mosfet, which would complete the circuit to ground based on the PWM "signal".


----------



## InfoSeeker

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *InfoSeeker*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Let me finish painting the picture.
> 
> The flush loop is external, by itself, consisting of:
> pump top - EK-D5 Dual TOP G1/4 CSQ - Acetal, sitting on a wooden desk
> pumps - two Aqua Computer D5 pump motor with USB and aquabus interface
> The two pumps are connected by a Y-splitter to the pass thru, which is connected to the PSU on a PC
> Both pumps' USB connections, and the flow sensor's USB connection attach to a Hubby7 which is connected to the same PC as the PSU
> 
> The Y-splitter would have the two pumps commons tied together... but that shouldn't make a path?
> Guess I can pull one pump off the splitter and see what happens.
> 
> Edit: that appears to have been the path... pulled one pump and the remaining pump follows the switch.
> Can I do something "simple" to make the switch work with the pumps tied in parallel?
> 
> ReEdit: I tried plugging in the second pump again, and now both appear to follow the switch. Maybe the switch is flaky.
> 
> As Roseanne Roseannadanna used to say - never mind.
> 
> 
> 
> ReReEdit: no, I checked the switch, it was good.
> The culprit is the USB connection. It appears the pumps 12V ground can path through the USB's ground.
> mhmmm, so one can power the pump with one wire only, if the USB connection is live. Wonder if that presents other problems?


Awww, thought I would remove the pumps' USB connections, drop an aquaero in the loop, and control the pumps with aquabus.
Not to be, the pump's 12V paths' through the aquabus now.

Don't want to rewire the pass-thru switch, so I guess I'll just brute force plug/unplug the Molex to start/stop the pumps.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *InfoSeeker*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *InfoSeeker*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Let me finish painting the picture.
> 
> The flush loop is external, by itself, consisting of:
> pump top - EK-D5 Dual TOP G1/4 CSQ - Acetal, sitting on a wooden desk
> pumps - two Aqua Computer D5 pump motor with USB and aquabus interface
> The two pumps are connected by a Y-splitter to the pass thru, which is connected to the PSU on a PC
> Both pumps' USB connections, and the flow sensor's USB connection attach to a Hubby7 which is connected to the same PC as the PSU
> 
> The Y-splitter would have the two pumps commons tied together... but that shouldn't make a path?
> Guess I can pull one pump off the splitter and see what happens.
> 
> Edit: that appears to have been the path... pulled one pump and the remaining pump follows the switch.
> Can I do something "simple" to make the switch work with the pumps tied in parallel?
> 
> ReEdit: I tried plugging in the second pump again, and now both appear to follow the switch. Maybe the switch is flaky.
> 
> As Roseanne Roseannadanna used to say - never mind.
> 
> 
> 
> ReReEdit: no, I checked the switch, it was good.
> The culprit is the USB connection. It appears the pumps 12V ground can path through the USB's ground.
> mhmmm, so one can power the pump with one wire only, if the USB connection is live. Wonder if that presents other problems?
> 
> 
> 
> Awww, thought I would remove the pumps' USB connections, drop an aquaero in the loop, and control the pumps with aquabus.
> Not to be, the pump's 12V paths' through the aquabus now.
> 
> Don't want to rewire the pass-thru switch, so I guess I'll just brute force plug/unplug the Molex to start/stop the pumps.
Click to expand...

You really need to put the switch in the + power lines, not the grounds.

As you've come to see, there are always multiple ground paths, that are seldom obvious.

To make ground path problems even more mysterious, keep in mind that the DC ground of the PSU is also connected to it's AC power line gnd, the PSU chassis, and hence the PC case if it's metal.

When you try to use a external PSU, the gnd from that usually makes its way to the PC via the gnd wires in the 2 PSU AC power cables, so if something in the PC has a connection to the internal PSU's gnd, it's also connected to the external PSU's gnd, making the switch useless.


----------



## InfoSeeker

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> You really need to put the switch in the + power lines, not the grounds.
> 
> As you've come to see, there are always multiple ground paths, that are seldom obvious.
> 
> To make ground path problems even more mysterious, keep in mind that the DC ground of the PSU is also connected to it's AC power line gnd, the PSU chassis, and hence the PC case if it's metal.
> 
> When you try to use a external PSU, the gnd from that usually makes its way to the PC via the gnd wires in the 2 PSU AC power cables, so if something in the PC has a connection to the internal PSU's gnd, it's also connected to the external PSU's gnd, making the switch useless.


Indeed.

I guess I should invest in one of those Molex pin pulling devices so I can mod the thing.


----------



## IT Diva

Hey guys, & gals,

Finally got a buildlog started for the Caselabs builds I'm working on, so I don't have to spam this thread as often.

Feel free to come by and if you get the urge, make like monkeys and fling some poo er, constructive criticism.

http://www.overclock.net/t/1614284/build-log-diva-does-threesomes-foursomes-moresomes-a-veritable-orgy-of-caselabs-mercury-series-builds

Since they all have Aquaeros, I figured it was relevant to shamelessly plug my buildlog here . .

Thanks for visiting,

Darlene


----------



## miller330i

How can I get a diva adapter? I want to run be quiet! Silent Wings 3 fans that seem to have a problem with the Aquaero 6xt


----------



## Bogga

What's the problem with the silent wings 3 and the aquaero? I've got 12 of those fans coming soon...


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bogga*
> 
> What's the problem with the silent wings 3 and the aquaero? I've got 12 of those fans coming soon...


If that's the fans that Shoggy mentioned a while back, I think in another thread than this one, they use a controller chip with a very, very low current on the PWM control line, as opposed to the normal pullup level of other fans.

The Aquaero actually follows the Intel PWM standard and has no pullup of its own on the PWM pin, since that's supposed to be sourced at the controlled device.

Putting an externally derived, current limited, 5V pullup on the PWM pin should make them function properly.

The Diva Mod, is such a mod, that was designed to allow the Aquaeros to properly control the original PWM D5's, that also do not have a normal internal pullup.

Some of these guys probably have the page bookmarked and will link it . . . You have to make it yourself from the pics and parts description.

Darlene


----------



## pharaohspaw

I've seen some mention made of PWM-type D5's not working well with these. I am (very lightly, not seriously yet...) considering Aquaero 6's but our rigs have EK DDC 3.2 PWM pumps. Does anyone know if these have the same type of PWM problems?

Thanks,
PharaohsPaw


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pharaohspaw*
> 
> I've seen some mention made of PWM-type D5's not working well with these. I am (very lightly, not seriously yet...) considering Aquaero 6's but our rigs have EK DDC 3.2 PWM pumps. Does anyone know if these have the same type of PWM problems?
> 
> Thanks,
> PharaohsPaw


As far as has been reported, non of the PWM DDC pumps have an issue.


----------



## Bogga

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> If that's the fans that Shoggy mentioned a while back, I think in another thread than this one, they use a controller chip with a very, very low current on the PWM control line, as opposed to the normal pullup level of other fans.
> 
> The Aquaero actually follows the Intel PWM standard and has no pullup of its own on the PWM pin, since that's supposed to be sourced at the controlled device.
> 
> Putting an externally derived, current limited, 5V pullup on the PWM pin should make them function properly.
> 
> The Diva Mod, is such a mod, that was designed to allow the Aquaeros to properly control the original PWM D5's, that also do not have a normal internal pullup.
> 
> Some of these guys probably have the page bookmarked and will link it . . . You have to make it yourself from the pics and parts description.
> 
> Darlene


Is that the same little device that you helped p0pe with in the Rhino build?


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bogga*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> If that's the fans that Shoggy mentioned a while back, I think in another thread than this one, they use a controller chip with a very, very low current on the PWM control line, as opposed to the normal pullup level of other fans.
> 
> The Aquaero actually follows the Intel PWM standard and has no pullup of its own on the PWM pin, since that's supposed to be sourced at the controlled device.
> 
> Putting an externally derived, current limited, 5V pullup on the PWM pin should make them function properly.
> 
> The Diva Mod, is such a mod, that was designed to allow the Aquaeros to properly control the original PWM D5's, that also do not have a normal internal pullup.
> 
> Some of these guys probably have the page bookmarked and will link it . . . You have to make it yourself from the pics and parts description.
> 
> Darlene
> 
> 
> 
> Is that the same little device that you helped p0pe with in the Rhino build?
Click to expand...

Yes


----------



## rolldog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> If I'm reading the question correctly;
> 
> You essentially want to use the PWM pin on an unused A6 fan channel to power single color LED strips that just have 2 wires . . . .
> 
> _If_ that's what you're wanting to do, the answer is no, at least not directly.
> 
> If you used a "N" Channel mosfet with a logic level gate, and did a slightly modified Diva Mod to drive it from a fan port, it could then be used to dim a 2 wire LED strip, (or several of them)
> 
> You'd want to run +12V to the strip's +, and then the - to the mosfet, which would complete the circuit to ground based on the PWM "signal".


Yes, that's what I want to do. Can I run a single color LED strip from one of the 2 pin PWM headers on the Aquaero? I'm not quite sure what the 2 pin PWM headers are made for, but if one pin is a ground and the other is 12V, wouldn't this work?

By the way, last night, I found out the hard way that the non powered 2 pin Power Distribution PCB made by ModMyToys is only rated for 3.3V. I ran a 12V source to it, installed a switch to it, and when I pressed the switch, all of the 2 pin connectors unsoldered themselves from the PCB and fell on the floor.


----------



## ruffhi

oops ... but (sorry about this), lol too.


----------



## ruffhi

I have an Aquaero 6. I also have a Aquacomputer flow rate sensor (the "high flow USB" type). Here is how I think I have to connect them ...

a) 4 pin fan connector wire from aquabus 'high' on the aquaero to the aquabus on the flow sensor.

Or ...

b) 5 pin USB from flow sensor to motherboard and 5 pin USB from aquaero to motherboard

Do I have that right ... if so ... which one is better / easier to work with?


----------



## miller330i

Wow I am so much out of the loop I barely recognized what she wrote. Does anyone have one for sale? I have no idea how to make the mod and I have a Be quiet case with more fans on the way as well. I have an Aquaero 6 xt with all upgrades and an Asus Maximus VIII Hero Alpha board. Does anyone think I will have a problem with the fan pwm interface? Thanks for any and all help.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ruffhi*
> 
> I have an Aquaero 6. I also have a Aquacomputer flow rate sensor (the "high flow USB" type). Here is how I think I have to connect them ...
> 
> a) 4 pin fan connector wire from aquabus 'high' on the aquaero to the aquabus on the flow sensor.
> 
> Or ...
> 
> b) 5 pin USB from flow sensor to motherboard and 5 pin USB from aquaero to motherboard
> 
> Do I have that right ... if so ... which one is better / easier to work with?


I would attach both aquabus and usb
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *miller330i*
> 
> Wow I am so much out of the loop I barely recognized what she wrote. Does anyone have one for sale? I have no idea how to make the mod and I have a Be quiet case with more fans on the way as well. I have an Aquaero 6 xt with all upgrades and an Asus Maximus VIII Hero Alpha board. Does anyone think I will have a problem with the fan pwm interface? Thanks for any and all help.


I don't have one to send or the parts to make one sorry,


----------



## miller330i

That is ok. What parts do I need is there a DIY or how to out there? Thanks!


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *chimaychanga*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Yes, . . . .
> 
> There's a really good way with an add-on PCB, but there's also a quick and easy way that yields acceptable results without having to run wires and plug into a 5V molex pin somewhere.
> 
> Here's copied from the "old" A6 thread with some additional information:
> 
> For the capable DIY'er . . .
> 
> While not as optimal a solution as the active component based solutions, this is a workable solution to the issue of having a PWM D5.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've tried it on a single and a dual D5 setup and it works satisfactorily with pullups optimized for each case, and it's dead nuts simple, though not exactly elegant.
> 
> At issue is that the D5 needs a fairly "strong" pullup, (lower resistance) . . . while the A6 works best with weaker pullups, (higher resistance).
> 
> This setup uses the 12V available from the first 2 of the 4 PWM fan pins on each channel of the A6.
> 
> The Zener diode and larger resistor form a 5V regulated source that the smaller resistor connects the PWM line to.
> 
> The diode is a 5.1V Zener diode, and the larger resistor, the 1/2 W one, is a 560 Ohm, but 470, 680, 820, or 1K will work as well. 1K may be the easiest to find.
> 
> Be sure you have the Zener diode polarity connected as in the pic.
> 
> The smaller resistor, 1/4 W, is a 2.2K which I'd suggest for a dual D5 setup, but for a single D5, a 3.3K would be fine.
> 
> The smaller size, 1/6W or 1/8W are electrically OK, but the smaller physical size makes lead breakage more of an issue, so stay with 1/4W.
> 
> Everything shown is available from RadioShack.
> 
> Hope that helps,
> 
> Darlene
> 
> 
> 
> Sweet mod
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> so i don't need to buy the Aquacomputer D5 pump after all
> I actually have electronics as one of my subjects in school so I can easily get the resistors needed. But im a bit confused on the diode part ? and what are these green and blue cables.. lawl electronics is still new to me as you can see
> 
> ...thanks for the props Bruce
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> The green and blue wires are the PWM and tach wire for the D5 connector.
> 
> That mod goes right on the D5's 4 pin connector that plugs onto the A6.
> 
> The easiest way to do it might actually be to make up a short extension cable with the mod on the extension cable's plug.
> 
> Google Zener Diode, and you'll see how they work so they can create a 5V source from the 12V that's present on the power pins of the A6 fan connectors.
> 
> Darlene
Click to expand...

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *chimaychanga*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> The green and blue wires are the PWM and tach wire for the D5 connector.
> 
> That mod goes right on the D5's 4 pin connector that plugs onto the A6.
> 
> The easiest way to do it might actually be to make up a short extension cable with the mod on the extension cable's plug.
> 
> Google Zener Diode, and you'll see how they work so they can create a 5V source from the 12V that's present on the power pins of the A6 fan connectors.
> 
> Darlene
> 
> 
> 
> But why do you have 2 of each wire ?? and did you solder the diode and resistors on to the fan terminals?
> 
> EDIT:
> I see now.. you have 2 D5 pump cables underneath your sleeving
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> right ?
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Yes, that cable was made as a Y cable for a dual D5 setup, but could seem confusing with the extra wires.
> 
> The diode and large resistor are each soldered to a terminal.
> 
> Here's the easiest way to implement the mod, . . . . as a short, 2 wire extension for the PWM and tach signals
> :
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Darlene
> 
> Update:
> 
> Here's the little modded extension cable installed, note that the pullup resistor is a 3.3K, basically a workable compromise for either single or dual D5's, but really better suited to a single:
> 
> 
> 
> Here's the scope with only 1 of the D5's PWM line connected, notice that the pulse voltage is right about 3.4V max, and very near 0V min.
> 
> Ideally, the max should be right at 5V, but the D5's electronics load the circuit down some.
> 
> 
> 
> Now here's the scope with both D5's PWM line connected, notice it's now loaded down to about 2.5V.
> 
> The lower max pulse voltage can be accounted for with slightly higher percentage settings in Aquasuite.
> 
> 
> 
> Note also that max voltage for both single and dual setups does go up a little as the pulse width is increased.
> 
> What's really important in both cases, is that the pulse's "off time" voltage stays very close to 0V.
> 
> If the pullup resistor is lowered to 1k or so, the max voltage comes up very close to 5V, but the "off time" voltage climbs up closer to .8V or so, and then the pump doesn't see it as off time any more , and runs full speed with no regards to the pulse width.
> 
> That's why if you have a dual D5, use a 2.2K when you make your cable, and a 3.3K if you have a single D5.
> 
> Darlene
Click to expand...


----------



## miller330i

Holy cr*p!! Wow that looks waaay beyond my capabilities. I can fix a iphone 4/5 screen and back cover but that...


----------



## Mega Man

It is easy, just need soldering iron


----------



## ForNever

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *miller330i*
> 
> Holy cr*p!! Wow that looks waaay beyond my capabilities. I can fix a iphone 4/5 screen and back cover but that...


With the proper tools in your hands and a little practice, well, there's nothing a determined person couldn't do. You can do this.


----------



## ruffhi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *ruffhi*
> 
> I have an Aquaero 6. I also have a Aquacomputer flow rate sensor (the "high flow USB" type). Here is how I think I have to connect them ...
> 
> a) 4 pin fan connector wire from aquabus 'high' on the aquaero to the aquabus on the flow sensor.
> 
> Or ...
> 
> b) 5 pin USB from flow sensor to motherboard and 5 pin USB from aquaero to motherboard
> 
> Do I have that right ... if so ... which one is better / easier to work with?
> 
> 
> 
> I would attach both aquabus and usb
Click to expand...

Why both? Sort of belt and braces approach ... or is one flaky? Or ...?


----------



## rolldog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> It is easy, just need soldering iron


I have a soldering iron that I haven't used in probably 20 years. I tried using it to solder some wires onto a single color LED strip, so I could crimp some pins to it and add a connector, and I ended up having to cut 3" off of the LED strip because my soldering skills are so horrible. I couldn't get the solder to connect the wires to the copper contact on the strip for the life of me. I couldn't even get the solder off the soldering iron. When soldering something with pins, it's much easier (put the solder on the opposite side of the pins from the soldering iron, which melts the solder and holds the pins together). Trying to solder a wire to a contact on the strip seemed impossible, so I ordered some of those plastic connectors with teeth on it, which make contact with the strip. I really didn't want to use those things because they always come loose, but if I would have kept trying to solder a stupid wire to the copper contact on the strip, I probably would have ruined the entire roll.

So, if you give this project a shot, be sure you buy extras of everything.

Sent from my Pixel C using Tapatalk


----------



## pharaohspaw

@IT Diva thanks for the answer on that (DDC 3.2 PWM and Aquaero's)

haha there is definitely some gadgetry going here.

Speaking of soldering irons.... need to find mine.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ruffhi*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *ruffhi*
> 
> I have an Aquaero 6. I also have a Aquacomputer flow rate sensor (the "high flow USB" type). Here is how I think I have to connect them ...
> 
> a) 4 pin fan connector wire from aquabus 'high' on the aquaero to the aquabus on the flow sensor.
> 
> Or ...
> 
> b) 5 pin USB from flow sensor to motherboard and 5 pin USB from aquaero to motherboard
> 
> Do I have that right ... if so ... which one is better / easier to work with?
> 
> 
> 
> I would attach both aquabus and usb
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Why both? Sort of belt and braces approach ... or is one flaky? Or ...?
Click to expand...

Some things are accessible usb only but it just makes life easier imo. If you can't do usb you can make do
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rolldog*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> It is easy, just need soldering iron
> 
> 
> 
> I have a soldering iron that I haven't used in probably 20 years. I tried using it to solder some wires onto a single color LED strip, so I could crimp some pins to it and add a connector, and I ended up having to cut 3" off of the LED strip because my soldering skills are so horrible. I couldn't get the solder to connect the wires to the copper contact on the strip for the life of me. I couldn't even get the solder off the soldering iron. When soldering something with pins, it's much easier (put the solder on the opposite side of the pins from the soldering iron, which melts the solder and holds the pins together). Trying to solder a wire to a contact on the strip seemed impossible, so I ordered some of those plastic connectors with teeth on it, which make contact with the strip. I really didn't want to use those things because they always come loose, but if I would have kept trying to solder a stupid wire to the copper contact on the strip, I probably would have ruined the entire roll.
> 
> So, if you give this project a shot, be sure you buy extras of everything.
> 
> Sent from my Pixel C using Tapatalk
Click to expand...

It isn't your fault, I did the same thing, you need to buy Flux at a minimum. It works wonders


----------



## Ironsmack

Hah... there's an AQ6 LT now i guess.

https://modmymods.com/aquacomputer-aquaero-6-lt-usb-fan-controller-53234.html

I guess they finally caved in


----------



## Mega Man

Now if they will only let you slave a aq6 and get 4 pwm fan slots @Shoggy is that going to be updated?

Ot I don't think they caved in. I think they paid/are paying off the R&D and manufacturing is now getting cheap enough to be able to make a profit on a lt.


----------



## GTXJackBauer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> Ot I don't think they caved in. I think they paid/are paying off the R&D and manufacturing is now getting cheap enough to be able to make a profit on a lt.


That or possibly a new AQ in the near future? One can only wish.


----------



## Shoggy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> Now if they will only let you slave a aq6 and get 4 pwm fan slots @Shoggy is that going to be updated?


Already implemented in our internal version.

Sorry, I have not read anything here in the last days. At the moment I am virtually living in the company and have no time for anything but for the one thing that you will see tomorrow


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> Now if they will only let you slave a aq6 and get 4 pwm fan slots @Shoggy is that going to be updated?
> 
> 
> 
> Already implemented in our internal version.
> 
> Sorry, I have not read anything here in the last days. At the moment I am virtually living in the company and have no time for anything but *for the one thing that you will see tomorrow*
Click to expand...

Somehow, . . . . I just know this is going to cost me a lot of $$$$, somehow or another . . .


----------



## JasonMorris

Another Shoggy tease. Can't wait. AQ7 perhaps!!!


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Somehow, . . . . I just know this is going to cost me a lot of $$$$, somehow or another . . .


Oh oh....I have the same feeling....

and yes we do have an AQ 6 LT now:

https://shop.aquacomputer.de/product_info.php?products_id=3481

which makes me wonder an AQ7 is coming


----------



## Barefooter

I sure hope it's an AQ7!


----------



## jsutter71

Maybe its a better user manual for the Aquaero


----------



## jsutter71

That 6LT looks interesting. I realize that I could have turned my 6XT into a LT a long time ago, but now that I'm looking at a actual product I'm starting to realize that I have absolutely no use whatsoever for the display portion of my 6XT. The only time I ever used it was when I was first setting up my system. After that was done all it's done is collect light scratches when I wipe the dust off it.


----------



## Barefooter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jsutter71*
> 
> That 6LT looks interesting. I realize that I could have turned my 6XT into a LT a long time ago, but now that I'm looking at a actual product I'm starting to realize that I have absolutely no use whatsoever for the display portion of my 6XT. The only time I ever used it was when I was first setting up my system. After that was done all it's done is collect light scratches when I wipe the dust off it.


I bought the XT because I REALLY wanted the remote control. I never use it, never even took it out of the plastic bag... and never use the front panel either.


----------



## jdw101

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Barefooter*
> 
> I bought the XT because I REALLY wanted the remote control. I never use it, never even took it out of the plastic bag... and never use the front panel either.


At least you installed yours, I bought the Aquaero 6 XT, 3 poweradjusts and the front panel, heatsinks for all and two ARMs with d5's with the interface ports and they have sat in a box for over a year. I need to do something with them.

Sounded like a great idea at the time.


----------



## jsutter71

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jdw101*
> 
> At least you installed yours, I bought the Aquaero 6 XT, 3 poweradjusts and the front panel, heatsinks for all and two ARMs with d5's with the interface ports and they have sat in a box for over a year. I need to do something with them.
> 
> Sounded like a great idea at the time.


Right their with you. This past month I finally decided to start selling all my unused PC equipment and I made close to $1500 dollars so far.


----------



## jdw101

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jsutter71*
> 
> Right their with you. This past month I finally decided to start selling all my unused PC equipment and I made close to $1500 dollars so far.


Good for you, I need to get off my tail and do exactly what you are doing, I could probably buy something I really want with all this stuff just sitting here becoming more worthless every day. Where did you sell ebay? I was thinking reddit/r/hardwareswap maybe.


----------



## jsutter71

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jdw101*
> 
> Good for you, I need to get off my tail and do exactly what you are doing, I could probably buy something I really want with all this stuff just sitting here becoming more worthless every day. Where did you sell ebay? I was thinking reddit/r/hardwareswap maybe.


I also have an amazon seller account which has less expensive fees but ebay seems to get better results for sellers. Plus you can make or except offers.


----------



## InfoSeeker

Looks like not aquaero 7, but CPU block on steroids.

Edit: Google translation


----------



## Ashcroft

Looks interesting if a bit gimmicky but a new block is well and truly due for AC so well done guys it looks to be a great improvement as far as aesthetics, heres hoping the performance matches up with its looks.
I particularly like the mount without thumbscrews.

The Vision GPU Blocks / Bridges look more interesting to me. It seems like you could almost get away without an Aquaero by using some of this new stuff with a decent motherboard. A Vision equipped D5 pump would be nice too.

Is the temp sensor in the fluid path directly or is it connected to a metal surface that is in contact with the fluid. Will be very interested to see how accurate it is compared to a dedicated sensor fitting.

Also:
Please send a few A6Lt and the other new stuff down to PCCASEGEAR in Australia please. They haven't had any aquacomp gear for months.


----------



## VSG

I have the standard version here (for review) and it's really good as it is:



















But yeah, I am very interested to see how the VARIO and VISION features work out in practice.


----------



## Kimir

Sweet that oled display on the block! And that vario stuff, could be useful on some cpu.


----------



## InfoSeeker

It looks like the new CPU block is just part of an entire new system called VISION.

If you look at this picture, you can see the vision display on the CPU block, and also on top of the GPU block and the top of the M.2 block.

Quote from Stephan. AC admin:
Quote:


> Since VISION can do much more than we have shown so far, we have shared the announcement. Today it is only about CPU coolers. Of course VISION also comes into other products - as you can see in the video. We are working on this week to make the release.


----------



## VSG

Yup, the VISION system is the successor to the Aquaero from what I see. So in a way, the new Aquaero also got announced today


----------



## Kimir

I just saw that, temp sensor integrated everywhere, that's awesome IMO.
I like that VISION stuff, while EK takes forever to release something to compete with the aquaero, Aqua Compter doesn't stop the development of their solution, thank you for that!


----------



## fast_fate

I just went live with Strens's write-up, after he decided to publish it privately


----------



## fast_fate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> I have the standard version here (for review) and it's really good as it is:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But yeah, I am very interested to see how the VARIO and VISION features work out in practice.


Nice write up V - http://thermalbench.com/2016/10/28/aquacomputer-cuplex-kryos-next-cpu-waterblock/


----------



## figgie

..and this answers the questions of the aquaaero future as I know that the Aquastream Ultimate has more "power" from a CPU than the Aquaaero 6 does... now when does that block go for sale and is the Aquastream Ulitmate part of the "vision"








Edit: nevermind, found the 2011-3 versions..


----------



## outofmyheadyo

The aquaero 4 pin internal usb cable is just your regular 4 pin usb right ? I wanted to order one a while back but forgot about it, and all the places that sell the specific one for the Aquaero are like 3€ for the cable and 20€ for the delivery








Talking about the Aquaero 6 Pro


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fast_fate*
> 
> I just went live with Strens's write-up, after he decided to publish it privately


I can't find it though








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *figgie*
> 
> ..and this answers the questions of the aquaaero future as I know that the Aquastream Ultimate has more "power" from a CPU than the Aquaaero 6 does... now when does that block go for sale and is the Aquastream Ulitmate part of the "vision"


A lot of those new blocks are already up for sale from Aquacomputer directly.


----------



## Ashcroft

Unless there is a Vision specific fan controller then there would seem to still be a place for the Aquaero. It does seem to feature prominently still in the AS2017 software. All the new smaller screens look good for smaller / optical bay free systems. Having temps on the devices themselves rather than a central display is an effect I didn't know I would like til I saw it in that video. Maybe thats why they have finally given us the 6lt


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> I can't find it though


NVM, found it: http://www.xtremerigs.net/2016/10/28/15836/
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ashcroft*
> 
> Unless there is a Vision specific fan controller then there would seem to still be a place for the Aquaero. It does seem to feature prominently still in the AS2017 software. All the new smaller screens look good for smaller / optical bay free systems. Having temps on the devices themselves rather than a central display is an effect I didn't know I would like til I saw it in that video. Maybe thats why they have finally given us the 6lt


I imagine it will happen, but also with functionality split up to other components as well. We have a CPU block with a temp sensor, and perhaps we will see GPU blocks with flow sensors or fan headers? They have pumps with displays, flow meters and fan headers as well so between these three vital components we have the functionality of a basic Aquaero already.


----------



## InfoSeeker

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *outofmyheadyo*
> 
> The aquaero 4 pin internal usb cable is just your regular 4 pin usb right ? I wanted to order one a while back but forgot about it, and all the places that sell the specific one for the Aquaero are like 3€ for the cable and 20€ for the delivery
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Talking about the Aquaero 6 Pro


The end connectors on aquabus are actually fan connectors. You get a 4-pin female/female fan cable, and you will be good to go. The fan connectors keep you from reversing the connection.

But, if you are located in Europe, email [email protected] and ask for the envelope shipping option, and shipping should be reasonable.


----------



## jsutter71

The new hardware looks nice but I can not justify it as a upgrade to my existing EK-Supremacy EVO Elite which idles at less then 25C, and runs less then 50C on full load when overclocked by 16%. I even contemplated the silver block but I have not been unable to find any real justification in spending $303.62 with shipping for a block that would provide me less then a degree of cooling improvement. One more gripe. Why can't Aqua computer offer free shipping for purchases over a certain dollar amount?

Perhaps if I had not purchased a block yet, and I was in spend mode. like I was last year when I spent over $25,000 for my system. Incidentally I have already upgraded $4800 worth of parts just in the last 3 weeks. Dual Titans with blocks and a 6950x.

Regardless, that's one hell of an expensive block for marginal performance improvement. *BUT IT DOES LOOK PRETTY*


----------



## AllGamer

How does the Temp monitor gets powered?
battery?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ashcroft*
> 
> 
> 
> Looks interesting if a bit gimmicky but a new block is well and truly due for AC so well done guys it looks to be a great improvement as far as aesthetics, heres hoping the performance matches up with its looks.
> I particularly like the mount without thumbscrews.
> 
> The Vision GPU Blocks / Bridges look more interesting to me. It seems like you could almost get away without an Aquaero by using some of this new stuff with a decent motherboard. A Vision equipped D5 pump would be nice too.
> 
> Is the temp sensor in the fluid path directly or is it connected to a metal surface that is in contact with the fluid. Will be very interested to see how accurate it is compared to a dedicated sensor fitting.
> 
> Also:
> Please send a few A6Lt and the other new stuff down to PCCASEGEAR in Australia please. They haven't had any aquacomp gear for months.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AllGamer*
> 
> How does the Temp monitor gets powered?
> battery?


a cable to USB. check pics here:

https://forum.aquacomputer.de/wasserk-hlung/107333-neu-cuplex-kryos-next/


----------



## AllGamer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabrielzm*
> 
> a cable to USB. check pics here:
> 
> https://forum.aquacomputer.de/wasserk-hlung/107333-neu-cuplex-kryos-next/


Thanks!

it's interesting, I might consider it for my next build.


----------



## InfoSeeker

Quote from product page:
Quote:


> The base itself is manufactured from copper, nickel plated copper or .925 sterling silver depending on model.


Thermal Conductivity of Metals:
Copper - 386 W/m K
Silver - 407 W/m K

1. Is an additional 21 W/mK worth 115 EUR?

b. does Nickel plated Copper loose measurable heat conductivity due to the clading?

α. does metal interaction/corrosion arise (silver kill coil style) with the Silver bases?


----------



## jpasint

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jsutter71*
> 
> The new hardware looks nice but I can not justify it as a upgrade to my existing EK-Supremacy EVO Elite which idles at less then 25C, and runs less then 50C on full load when overclocked by 16%. I even contemplated the silver block but I have not been unable to find any real justification in spending $303.62 with shipping for a block that would provide me less then a degree of cooling improvement. One more gripe. Why can't Aqua computer offer free shipping for purchases over a certain dollar amount?
> 
> Perhaps if I had not purchased a block yet, and I was in spend mode. like I was last year when I spent over $25,000 for my system. Incidentally I have already upgraded $4800 worth of parts just in the last 3 weeks. Dual Titans with blocks and a 6950x.
> 
> Regardless, that's one hell of an expensive block for marginal performance improvement. *BUT IT DOES LOOK PRETTY*


Man if I could spend $25,000 to build a new system I wouldn't even be thinking about the cost of shipping.
You're a lucky man.


----------



## Trestles126

I have a question. I'm upgrading my s8 to a dual loop system one for gpus and one for my Cpu ram and mosfet. Adding a pedastal... Anyways bought two d5 ek with the pwm. Read plenty about the mod. That's about the only option correct to do what was explained a page or two ago? Sure think someone would be making those 4 inch extension cables.

If you plug in ur pwm d5 to just the molex does it run at 100 percent power? Can you hook up the pwm cables to a fan input and just set rpms permanently at a set speed by doing that and not have it fluctuate.

Guess I shoulda just bought reg d5 pumps as I usually just set and forget it at level 3.


----------



## AllGamer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Trestles126*
> 
> If you plug in ur pwm d5 to just the molex does it run at 100 percent power? Can you hook up the pwm cables to a fan input and just set rpms permanently at a set speed by doing that and not have it fluctuate.


what about pluging them into the motherboard, and let the motherboard (actual power still come from Molex 4pin) control the speed as "FAN" set them fixed at 50% 100% or whatever speed you want.

that's what I'm planning to do with mines.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Trestles126*
> 
> I have a question. I'm upgrading my s8 to a dual loop system one for gpus and one for my Cpu ram and mosfet. Adding a pedastal... Anyways bought two d5 ek with the pwm. Read plenty about the mod. That's about the only option correct to do what was explained a page or two ago? Sure think someone would be making those 4 inch extension cables.
> 
> *If you plug in ur pwm d5 to just the molex does it run at 100 percent power?* Can you hook up the pwm cables to a fan input and just set rpms permanently at a set speed by doing that and not have it fluctuate.
> 
> Guess I shoulda just bought reg d5 pumps as I usually just set and forget it at level 3.


Depends on the d5 pwm model. Regular PWM model runs at 60%. Ek and Aquacomputer new ones that follow intel specs run at 100%. Be aware the EK have the old model and the new one. The ek old is just a regular d5 the new one just like Aqua follows intel specs...


----------



## Trestles126

Thanks ya brand new ek with the clear round top


----------



## jsutter71

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jpasint*
> 
> Man if I could spend $25,000 to build a new system I wouldn't even be thinking about the cost of shipping.
> You're a lucky man.


Thank you. Not rich by any means. Just make a comfortable living being retired.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *InfoSeeker*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *outofmyheadyo*
> 
> The aquaero 4 pin internal usb cable is just your regular 4 pin usb right ? I wanted to order one a while back but forgot about it, and all the places that sell the specific one for the Aquaero are like 3€ for the cable and 20€ for the delivery
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Talking about the Aquaero 6 Pro
> 
> 
> 
> The end connectors on aquabus are actually fan connectors. You get a 4-pin female/female fan cable, and you will be good to go. The fan connectors keep you from reversing the connection.
> 
> But, if you are located in Europe, email [email protected] and ask for the envelope shipping option, and shipping should be reasonable.
Click to expand...

No. It is a internal 5 pin usb header (t pin dupont iirc 2.54mm)


----------



## InfoSeeker

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *outofmyheadyo*
> 
> The aquaero 4 pin internal usb cable is just your regular 4 pin usb right ? I wanted to order one a while back but forgot about it, and all the places that sell the specific one for the Aquaero are like 3€ for the cable and 20€ for the delivery
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Talking about the Aquaero 6 Pro
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *InfoSeeker*
> 
> The end connectors on aquabus are actually fan connectors. You get a 4-pin female/female fan cable, and you will be good to go. The fan connectors keep you from reversing the connection.
> 
> But, if you are located in Europe, email [email protected] and ask for the envelope shipping option, and shipping should be reasonable.
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> No. It is a internal 5 pin usb header (t pin dupont iirc 2.54mm)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
Click to expand...

Oops, my bad... somehow I read "aquaero" as "aquabus".
Thanks for the correction Mega.

Edit:
If you are looking for internal USB cables, FrontX has a good selection.
I have used them in the past and was very happy with their service.
The are located in Malaysia, but they ship for free (scroll to bottom of link above for details)


----------



## Mads1

Loving the look of the new CPU blocks might have to get one for our next project.


----------



## Shoggy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *InfoSeeker*
> 
> Edit: Google translation


I highly recommend to use the official English press release









I will add the announcement later to the English forum but it will be pretty much the same.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ashcroft*
> 
> Is the temp sensor in the fluid path directly or is it connected to a metal surface that is in contact with the fluid. Will be very interested to see how accurate it is compared to a dedicated sensor fitting.


The sensor has no direct contact to the fluid but it is very close and the material forwards temperature changes much faster. We did a comparison with a classic inline sensor and the integrated sensor in the CPU block was responding much faster to changes. If you let sit both for a while they will show pretty much the same temperature but the CPU was reacting very fast to changes in the load while the inline sensor was pretty slow or did not even pick up the change.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Yup, the VISION system is the successor to the Aquaero from what I see. So in a way, the new Aquaero also got announced today


VISION is not a successor for the aquaero nor will it replace the aquaero. It just extends the whole ecosystem.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *figgie*
> 
> ..and this answers the questions of the aquaaero future as I know that the Aquastream Ultimate has more "power" from a CPU than the Aquaaero 6 does... now when does that block go for sale and is the Aquastream Ulitmate part of the "vision"


As said, the VISION is a thing on its own like the aquaero. The blocks can be already ordered. Shipping for many of them will start next week. The VISION variants should be available in about two weeks.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AllGamer*
> 
> How does the Temp monitor gets powered?
> battery?


Ah, I forgot to mention that we also integrated a thermonuclear fusion reactor inside the block. Its plasma chamber is directly water cooled. Don't believe me...? OK, the trick is a little opening sidewards at the base. You can see a photo here.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mads1*
> 
> Loving the look of the new CPU blocks might have to get one for our next project.


----------



## VSG

Thanks for the clarification!


----------



## InfoSeeker

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> I highly recommend to use the official English press release
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I will add the announcement later to the English forum but it will be pretty much the same.
> The sensor has no direct contact to the fluid but it is very close and the material forwards temperature changes much faster. We did a comparison with a classic inline sensor and the integrated sensor in the CPU block was responding much faster to changes. If you let sit both for a while they will show pretty much the same temperature but the CPU was reacting very fast to changes in the load while the inline sensor was pretty slow or did not even pick up the change.
> VISION is not a successor for the aquaero nor will it replace the aquaero. It just extends the whole ecosystem.
> As said, the VISION is a thing on its own like the aquaero. The blocks can be already ordered. Shipping for many of them will start next week. The VISION variants should be available in about two weeks.
> 
> 
> 
> Ah, I forgot to mention that we also integrated a thermonuclear fusion reactor inside the block. Its plasma chamber is directly water cooled. Don't believe me...?
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> OK, the trick is a little opening sidewards at the base. You can see a photo here.


Cool... that should provide sufficient energy to place a mini WiFi module on-board also?


----------



## jpasint

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> You can see a photo here.


Jeeze that thing is sexy.


----------



## jsutter71

One more annoying cable to route. I understand the limitations but a fan header would have been easier.


----------



## hiarc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> Already implemented in our internal version.
> 
> Sorry, I have not read anything here in the last days. At the moment I am virtually living in the company and have no time for anything but for the one thing that you will see tomorrow


Any ETA on the update, Shoggy? I would be more than happy to pick up a 6LT as a slave unit. I'm in need of more PWM ports.


----------



## Shoggy

~2 weeks


----------



## hiarc

Awesome! Thanks Shoggy!


----------



## nocturnus

I'm jumping on the Aquacomputer/Aquaero bandwagon and had some questions regarding how to get everything hooked up. The primary components of the system I'm trying to plan include an Aquaero 6, 2x Aquacomputer USB D5 pumps, 1x Aquacomputer High Flow USB Sensor, and a Farbwerk. Anyway, to my questions...

1) Is there any issue connecting (and leaving connected) both the USB connection and a 4pin Aquabus cable (In regards to the pumps, flow sensor and farbwerk)? If no problem, how does the device decide which to draw power from?

2) Is there any benefit in using 4 pin Aquabus cables, instead of 3 pin, if im going to leave the USB connected at all times? (I will be dual booting windows and linux, running linux most of the time if that matters.)

3) I'm planning on connecting all the USB interfaces with a Hubby7, connected to SATA power. Do i need to be concerned about power draw from those devices?

4) Does the Farbwerk require the Molex power connector or will it draw necessary power from Aquabus or USB?

5) For the USB D5 pumps, the Molex connection is only necessary if powering only by PSU. Otherwise, unit is powered by either USB or Aquabus, correct?

Thanks for any help you all can provide. (And sorry to distract from the new product hype going on.







)


----------



## InfoSeeker

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nocturnus*
> 
> I'm jumping on the Aquacomputer/Aquaero bandwagon and had some questions regarding how to get everything hooked up. The primary components of the system I'm trying to plan include an Aquaero 6, 2x Aquacomputer USB D5 pumps, 1x Aquacomputer High Flow USB Sensor, and a Farbwerk. Anyway, to my questions...
> 
> 1) Is there any issue connecting (and leaving connected) both the USB connection and a 4pin Aquabus cable (In regards to the pumps, flow sensor and farbwerk)? If no problem, how does the device decide which to draw power from?
> 
> 2) Is there any benefit in using 4 pin Aquabus cables, instead of 3 pin, if im going to leave the USB connected at all times? (I will be dual booting windows and linux, running linux most of the time if that matters.)
> 
> 3) I'm planning on connecting all the USB interfaces with a Hubby7, connected to SATA power. Do i need to be concerned about power draw from those devices?
> 
> 4) Does the Farbwerk require the Molex power connector or will it draw necessary power from Aquabus or USB?
> 
> 5) For the USB D5 pumps, the Molex connection is only necessary if powering only by PSU. Otherwise, unit is powered by either USB or Aquabus, correct?
> 
> Thanks for any help you all can provide. (And sorry to distract from the new product hype going on.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )


1) No problem leaving both USB & aquabus connected. Many folks leave both connected, as each connections has advantages. Don't worry about where the power is drawn from, but if both connections are used, you will need to select which has control. This is done on the USB > System tab in aquasuite.

2) No, other than it is simpler to use 4-pin aquabus throughout. That way you don't have to worry about keeping track, or removing a USB connection at a later dated. There is no downside.

3) No, the SATA connection is not really needed unless you have devices that charge through their USB connection. None of the aquacomputer devices charge through the USB connection. They draw power if needed, but they do not charge.

4) Yes, the farbwerk requires the 4-pin Molex power connector to be connected to the PSU. The USB or aquabus connection does not provide sufficient power to light the LEDs.

5) NO, the 4-pin Molex power connector is always required, regardless of which interface you use to communicate with the device. Except for the Hubby-7, if a 4-pin Molex/SATA power connector is available on the device (farbwerk, pumps, aquaero), it must be connected to the PSU.


----------



## GTXJackBauer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> VISION is not a successor for the aquaero nor will it replace the aquaero. It just extends the whole ecosystem.


Thank you for this. This is very comforting to hear.

I was also thinking if I may. If say a new color display shows up down the pipeline, I was hoping the consumer end somehow would get the opportunity instead of buying a whole new console, if we were able to just replace the display's on our AQ5s/AQ6s, that would mean a lot and I think more people would choose this route then purchase a whole new premium control when they already own one. Just a thought.


----------



## faxfan2002

Wonder if someone can help me with my Aquastream XT ultra pump - the speed seems to be maxing out at around 4780 - 4792rpm.

I've set the pump up to 6000rpm / 100Hz (manual and automatic) and when I reset the maximum speed it takes it to 6000rpm the rpm's drop to around 2800rpm and the maximum speed sets itself back to ~4780rpm where it promptly stops!

Any ideas?


----------



## Shoggy

This is a normal behavior. The max setting with 6000 rpm (100 Hz) is the theoretical maximum which is almost impossible to reach in a real world setup. Depending on the resistance in your loop the impeller is not able anymore to follow the magnetic field. When this happens the power consumption of the pump changes in a very significant way and the controller lets the pump stop and start again. If you use the automatic mode the pump will remember this limit and will not try to go beyond it again. This procedure might repeat two or three times before a stable operation speed is found. You could also take this value and set it manually so the pump will always run at the fastest speed that is possible in your setup without going through the detection of this value again.

By the way: the ULTIMATE version has a much more advanced controller and is able to detect this critical point before the impeller can not follow anymore which means the pump will not stop for s short moment but limits the speed directly.


----------



## faxfan2002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> This is a normal behavior. The max setting with 6000 rpm (100 Hz) is the theoretical maximum which is almost impossible to reach in a real world setup. Depending on the resistance in your loop the impeller is not able anymore to follow the magnetic field. When this happens the power consumption of the pump changes in a very significant way and the controller lets the pump stop and start again. If you use the automatic mode the pump will remember this limit and will not try to go beyond it again. This procedure might repeat two or three times before a stable operation speed is found. You could also take this value and set it manually so the pump will always run at the fastest speed that is possible in your setup without going through the detection of this value again.
> 
> By the way: the ULTIMATE version has a much more advanced controller and is able to detect this critical point before the impeller can not follow anymore which means the pump will not stop for s short moment but limits the speed directly.


Brilliant, thank you.


----------



## nocturnus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *InfoSeeker*
> 
> 1) No problem leaving both USB & aquabus connected. Many folks leave both connected, as each connections has advantages. Don't worry about where the power is drawn from, but if both connections are used, you will need to select which has control. This is done on the USB > System tab in aquasuite.
> 
> 2) No, other than it is simpler to use 4-pin aquabus throughout. That way you don't have to worry about keeping track, or removing a USB connection at a later dated. There is no downside.
> 
> 3) No, the SATA connection is not really needed unless you have devices that charge through their USB connection. None of the aquacomputer devices charge through the USB connection. They draw power if needed, but they do not charge.
> 
> 4) Yes, the farbwerk requires the 4-pin Molex power connector to be connected to the PSU. The USB or aquabus connection does not provide sufficient power to light the LEDs.
> 
> 5) NO, the 4-pin Molex power connector is always required, regardless of which interface you use to communicate with the device. Except for the Hubby-7, if a 4-pin Molex/SATA power connector is available on the device (farbwerk, pumps, aquaero), it must be connected to the PSU.


Thanks InfoSeeker! This is exactly the info i needed, you saved me from making a couple of inexperienced mistakes.

I think where i got confused on concerning the Molex power, is that the manual specifically mentions connecting it, but follows up by stating under both the USB and Aquabus connector sections stating, "this connector is used for USB communications to the PC and for power supply", and "power will be supplied through the aquabus connection from the aquaero". I'm guessing now that is more specifically for powering the mps circuitry instead of the entire unit.

Anyway. Thanks again.


----------



## Mega Man

One thing I wanted to add but was driving. I would not power 7 uses through the hubby without an external power supply.

Now if only they made hubbies with fast 4 pins instead of that crappy sata power connector.... oh well.... mod it!


----------



## faxfan2002

One thing I ran across when using USB to connect my aquereo devices is running out of USB devices, I had to disable XHCI in my BIOS to enable devices. Depending on boot sequence this was sometimes my pump!


----------



## rolldog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> Some things are accessible usb only but it just makes life easier imo. If you can't do usb you can make do
> It isn't your fault, I did the same thing, you need to buy Flux at a minimum. It works wonders


Ok. I've been Googling Flux, Flux Soldering Iron, Flux Solder, and now I'm even more confused. Is this a brand of soldering iron or solder? Or is it a total replacement for soldering joints using something besides an old school soldering iron? When I was looking around, I sound something called a Flux, but some look like a pen, some look like a specific kind of solder, but whatever it is, can you post a link or tell me how to find it online and explain exactly what it is? I've already found an alternative solution for what I was trying to do, but I'm sure I'll need to solder sometime in the future, and if I have something that works better than this stupid 20 year old soldering iron I have, I'll probably be able to use it better. I ended up using solderless connectors for what I was trying to do.


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rolldog*
> 
> Ok. I've been Googling Flux, Flux Soldering Iron, Flux Solder, and now I'm even more confused. Is this a brand of soldering iron or solder? Or is it a total replacement for soldering joints using something besides an old school soldering iron? When I was looking around, I sound something called a Flux, but some look like a pen, some look like a specific kind of solder, but whatever it is, can you post a link or tell me how to find it online and explain exactly what it is? I've already found an alternative solution for what I was trying to do, but I'm sure I'll need to solder sometime in the future, and if I have something that works better than this stupid 20 year old soldering iron I have, I'll probably be able to use it better. I ended up using solderless connectors for what I was trying to do.


Flux is like cooking with oil it helds spread the heat evenly and seems to allow the soldier to get hotter. I always use flux core soldier


----------



## rolldog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> Flux is like cooking with oil it helds spread the heat evenly and seems to allow the soldier to get hotter. I always use flux core soldier


So, it's a specific brand of solder?


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rolldog*
> 
> So, it's a specific brand of solder?


No not brand a type but can buy several brands with flux core...

https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Flux_(metallurgy)

Should help some if you read it


----------



## Mega Man

flux is a cleaning agent, usually acidic some times it is alkaline. there are many different types, for many different things ( pcb vs silver solder vs plumbing solder ect ) sometimes i like the pen, for smd components iirc solder/flux paste is usually recommended ( @ diva do i remember correctly ? ) i generally recommend getting the kind you dont need to wash off. also brass wool helps to clean your tip


----------



## jdw101

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> ~2 weeks


Hi Shoggy, I noticed that there is a vision component on the GPU in the Vision block video, any ideas on how to order that one?







Also is the Aquero 6 XT being upgraded soon? I saw there might be a change to the LT so was wondering because I currently own the 6xt and have never used it so wondering if I can just upgrade the part.

Thanks!


----------



## Shoggy

The graphics card terminals belong to all the other VISION stuff that will be released soon.

We do not provide information about future products anymore.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> The graphics card terminals belong to all the other VISION stuff that will be released soon.
> 
> We do not provide information about future products anymore.


@Shoggy With regards to the 6LT, when slaved to another 6 series Aquaero, does it lose or retain it's ability to be set to PWM control?

Recalling the 5LT, the PWM capability of the 1 channel that normally has it, is lost when using it in slave mode.

Hopefully, this is not the case with the 6 LT.

Thanks in advance,

Darlene


----------



## Shoggy

A newer slave firmware will support PWM for all channels.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> A newer slave firmware will support PWM for all channels.


I assume that means that for right now, PWM on slaved channels is Not supported . . . .

D.


----------



## Shoggy

Correct


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> A newer slave firmware will support PWM for all channels.
> 
> 
> 
> I assume that means that for right now, PWM on slaved channels is Not supported . . . .
> 
> D.
Click to expand...

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> Correct


At risk of trespassing into the "not providing information about future products anymore" domain, is there any kind of estimate of when that newer firmware might become reality?

I ask because the single biggest reason people buy the A6 is because of its multi channel PWM capability, as more and more of the top tier fans are all moving to PWM.

Expanding that capability, and with it, increasing appeal and sales volume, would seem a wiser initial direction than the blingy, gimmicky, though basically irrelevant, Vision stuff.

Thanks in advance,

D.


----------



## Shoggy

It will be included with the next aquasuite version in about two weeks.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> It will be included with the next aquasuite version in about two weeks.


AWESOME!!!!

Thanks


----------



## rolldog

Ok, I finally finished all the cosmetic stuff I needed to do with my rig, and I've leak tested it, had the fans and lights operating while running everything with a jumper on my PSU, then finally hooked power to my MB, along with everything else, and I get nothing. The reset and power button on the MB (Asus X99 Deluxe II) light up, along with a couple of LEDs, but not even any of my fans ran, like they did when I was leak testing everything. I'm assuming that a cause for this might be because I have everything powered, or run/monitored through my Aquaeros and PAs.

Since I'm powering everything on for the first time, do I need to set anything specific on either one of my Aquaero 6XTs and/or set the addresses of my 3 PAs before any of my Aqua Computer stuff starts working or should my PC at least post, or allow me to access the BIOS to setup all my drives, etc? I'm running 2 Aquaero 6XTs, 3 Poweradjust Ultras, and 2 Farbwerks. Can I set the individual addresses for the Poweradjusts once my PC is up and running, or do I need to set the addresses beforehand? I was thinking I could just hook one up at a time, set the address, then hook another one up and set the address of that one, etc, since all I have besides this rig is a couple of laptops. I'm not sure if the addresses are set using the Aquaero or if they're set using Aquasuite only.

I'm trying to figure out why I'm not getting any power after hooking up all of my components, and I was wondering if my unconfigured Aqua Computer devices might prevent my PC from booting because of any conflicts, or should it not have a factor on anything? Also, I'm running 2 D5 Vario pumps, each through its own PA. Using the cable that came with the PA, with the MOLEX connector and 3 pin header for the pump RPM on one end and a 3 pin connector on the opposite end, doesn't the 3 pin connector from the D5 Vario connect to the fan connector on the PA? Since all of these components are hooked up via USB, is it possible that something may be creating a conflict, preventing my rig from powering up? If so, I'm assuming that if I unplug some of these USB devices and setup one component at a time might help. This is my first time using Aqua Computer components in a build, so I'm not sure if any of them might prevent my PC from booting up if nothing has been configured beforehand.

If anyone has any suggestions, I would appreciate it.


----------



## jvillaveces

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rolldog*
> 
> Ok, I finally finished all the cosmetic stuff I needed to do with my rig, and I've leak tested it, had the fans and lights operating while running everything with a jumper on my PSU, then finally hooked power to my MB, along with everything else, and I get nothing. The reset and power button on the MB (Asus X99 Deluxe II) light up, along with a couple of LEDs, but not even any of my fans ran, like they did when I was leak testing everything. I'm assuming that a cause for this might be because I have everything powered, or run/monitored through my Aquaeros and PAs.
> 
> Since I'm powering everything on for the first time, do I need to set anything specific on either one of my Aquaero 6XTs and/or set the addresses of my 3 PAs before any of my Aqua Computer stuff starts working or should my PC at least post, or allow me to access the BIOS to setup all my drives, etc? I'm running 2 Aquaero 6XTs, 3 Poweradjust Ultras, and 2 Farbwerks. Can I set the individual addresses for the Poweradjusts once my PC is up and running, or do I need to set the addresses beforehand? I was thinking I could just hook one up at a time, set the address, then hook another one up and set the address of that one, etc, since all I have besides this rig is a couple of laptops. I'm not sure if the addresses are set using the Aquaero or if they're set using Aquasuite only.
> 
> I'm trying to figure out why I'm not getting any power after hooking up all of my components, and I was wondering if my unconfigured Aqua Computer devices might prevent my PC from booting because of any conflicts, or should it not have a factor on anything? Also, I'm running 2 D5 Vario pumps, each through its own PA. Using the cable that came with the PA, with the MOLEX connector and 3 pin header for the pump RPM on one end and a 3 pin connector on the opposite end, doesn't the 3 pin connector from the D5 Vario connect to the fan connector on the PA? Since all of these components are hooked up via USB, is it possible that something may be creating a conflict, preventing my rig from powering up? If so, I'm assuming that if I unplug some of these USB devices and setup one component at a time might help. This is my first time using Aqua Computer components in a build, so I'm not sure if any of them might prevent my PC from booting up if nothing has been configured beforehand.
> 
> If anyone has any suggestions, I would appreciate it.


I don't think the Aquacomputer hardware, regardless of whether it is correctly connected or not, will interfere with your PC posting, unless you have connected a relay from one of the Aquaeros to the PSU for emergency shutdown and somehow botched the connection. Other than that, incorrectly connected or configured AC hardware will prevent you from using the Aquaero or controlling stuff in Aquasuite, or at worst fry an AC component, but I don't think it can stop your system from posting.
Have you used a PSU tester to test your power supply? That would be step one. Step two would be to test your motherboard with a single stick of ram, then with all your ram. You need to figure out if your problem is the motherboard or something else. If the mobo passes, install your GPU(s) and try again. Inspect every connection in your system for loose cables, unseated connectors, etc. If you still can't identify the problem, simplify the electrical system it as much as possible: disconnect everything except the ATX and EPS -- does it post? now connect your pumps -- does it post? now SATA power -- does it post? Front panel USB? Front panel power? Lighting? Finally, the Aquaero and accessories, making sure to connect them to USB while the system disconnected from the wall.
In my HTPC build about a year ago, I experienced a problem similar to yours, and the culprit ended up being a custom-made (bought, not made by me) ATX cable with an incorrect pinout. Fortunately all it did was prevent the system from starting, it could well have fried something.
Always test the psu and every cable before putting the system together, and always breadboard the system before assembly so you can identify and replace faulty components without having to take apart the entire system.


----------



## rolldog

Ok, I'll spend some time tomorrow working on this. I did have all of my cables custom made, and I compared the cables to the pinouts that came with my PSU. I did find that the 8 pin EPS connector wasn't wired correctly, so I ended up ordering another one from someone else, which came wired correctly.

I've tested my PSU using the PSU Test button on the Corsair AX1200i, which gave me the green light. I unplugged all my SATA connectors, the HD Audio connector, both USB3 connectors, the USB2 connector, the RPM connectors from my Koolance Frequency Adapter which plug into standard fan headers on the MB, I pulled the 4 pin PSU cable to the MB (from what I understand, the 8 pin connector is necessary and the 4 pin is optional), and I unhooked all the headers running to the front panel, like the power switch, reset switch, HDD LED, etc. After doing all this, I powered it on, pressed the power button on the MB since the front button was unplugged, and then everything fired up. All my fans were running, my lights were on, the pumps were running, but I still didn't get anything on the screen.

This build is so big, I had to build it outside of my office in another room. I have 3 x 4K monitors, all hooked up via Displayport, but when trying to get it to boot, I ran an HDMI cable to the closest TV instead of trying to move this in my office, which is still a wreck. I might bring one of my 28" 4K monitors out of my office so I can hook it up via displayport, just like it was before I started upgrading it. My GPUs and hard drives are the only things in this build that were in my last build.

With all the additional components I've added to my rig, I was wondering if my PSU was going to have enough power to run everything, especially when overclocking. I've never had a system that had an underpowered PSU, so I don't know what symptoms I would see. I'm running 2 x Gigabyte 980 Ti G1 Gaming GPUs running SLI, and I have each GPU flashed with a custom BIOS. Each one of my GPUs has 2 x 8 pin power connections, my BIOS is unlocked, and each GPU is running a voltage of 1.312V and each card is overclocked to between 1600-1700Mhz and the memory around 7500Mhz requiring somewhere around a 1200 watt PSU to not max out the capacity of the PSU and to stay under 80% for better efficiency. Well, I've also added an i7-6950X 10 core CPU, 32GB of 3333 Corsair Dominator memory, plus all of my hard drives, water cooling equipment, etc.

With all this considered, I should still be able to post, or at least get to the BIOS, right? What has me wondering is why I'm not even getting a Q Code on my MB? I'm just hoping it isn't power related. At the very least, assuming all my cables were wired correctly, etc, I should at least be able to get into the BIOS, right?

I guess tomorrow I'll hook it up via displayport to one of my monitors, and start plugging things back in one at a time. I have a Corsair K70 RGB keyboard, and every time the system would power up (before the upgrades) the keyboard would light up with every key's LED in Red and once it got far enough into the boot process and was loading all the drivers, the keys would change to RGB and show a rainbow effect on the keyboard. If it wouldn't boot, I would go straight into the BIOS and the keys would remain red until my rig would post. Well, after powering it on, even though I wouldn't get anything on the TV I was using with an HDMI cable, the keyboard would start with red LED on each key, and then change to RGB, which means it got far enough booting to load the drivers for the keyboard and apply this profile. This makes me think that whenever I unplug enough components where everything turns on, it's actually getting further than I think, but I probably can't see it on this damn TV.

Anyway, I'm getting off topic. Good to know none of the Aquaero stuff installed would prevent my system from booting. I just need to spend some time on it tomorrow plugging everything back in one at a time, and have it hooked up to one of my monitors in case it's actually booting, but I'm just not getting anything to display on the TV.


----------



## jvillaveces

The self-test button on your PSU doesn't tell you much. You need to use a PSU tester, like the Thermaltake Dr Power II, which lets you test the PSU itself along with all of the cables.
Given what you said about the way you wired your system, the fact that your fans and pumps spin is a good indication that the PSU is alive and the aquaero and pa's are working. But, if you're not getting to a q-code, you have a problem with one or more of your primary components. Start your system up with just a stick of ram, nothing else connected to the mobo, if necessary test with another stick, until it posts -- at this stage it would be best if you tested even without your cpu. If it doesn't post, your problem is either the ram (unlikely if no stick worked) or the mobo itself. When you get it to post, keep adding components one by one and re-testing. Eventually you will find the problem.

EDIT: There are several power-draw calculators online that you can use to estimate whether your PSU is powerful enough for your rig. It might be a good idea to figure that out before you start yanking wires and components


----------



## GTXJackBauer

Agree with everything JV said.

The PSU tester you speak of only tests the PSU itself and not the cables connected to it. Is this a AX1200i and when did you purchase this PSU?

As for the Corsair keyboard, I had issues but was fixed once I upgraded my MB's BIOS. The rainbow effect is the default profile it goes too. Unless you installed a profile to the keyboards internal memory, no profile is selected till the Cue software tells it whats assigned in the OS.

Make sure your BIOS is up to date and try booting the PC without anything connected to it. Try your bare minimums and also try using a DVI connection if possible.


----------



## Ashcroft

Actually, I have a Poweradjust 2 with a shot USB system that when connected will stop the system from booting properly. The PA works just fine when connected via Aquabus but USB is useless.

I wouldn't expect this to be the same but I guess it may be possible. In my case the system freezes indefinitely on the post splash screen.

I really should have sent it back for repair or replacement years ago but because it still did what I wanted I didn't bother.

My guess, and its just a guess, as to why it causes that behaviour is that its similar to how a bad HDD can cause really slow or even failed boots because it somehow spoils the system self checking by not being completely broken or working as it should.


----------



## saintruski

Really love tge idea of this new block, but I can't get into it's looks.








. Sucks that I require aesthetically pleasing things so much that don't clash.


----------



## Bogga

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> It will be included with the next aquasuite version in about two weeks.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> AWESOME!!!!
> 
> Thanks


Would this be a "fix" for that pwm issue with the ek-pumps and the bq-fans?


----------



## Shoggy

No, that has nothing to do with it. What you mean is a hardware issue with the pumps. That can not be fixed with an software update.


----------



## rolldog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GTXJackBauer*
> 
> Agree with everything JV said.
> 
> The PSU tester you speak of only tests the PSU itself and not the cables connected to it. Is this a AX1200i and when did you purchase this PSU?
> 
> As for the Corsair keyboard, I had issues but was fixed once I upgraded my MB's BIOS. The rainbow effect is the default profile it goes too. Unless you installed a profile to the keyboards internal memory, no profile is selected till the Cue software tells it whats assigned in the OS.
> 
> Make sure your BIOS is up to date and try booting the PC without anything connected to it. Try your bare minimums and also try using a DVI connection if possible.


Yes, it's a Corsair AX1200i, and it's a couple of years ago. Like I mentioned, the pumps, fans, lighting, etc worked when I was leak testing and had a jumper on my PSU cable, but once I removed the jumper and plugged everything up to my PSU, I don't get anything.

This is the first time I've used an Aquaero and Poweradjusts in my system. From what I understand, I need to set separate addresses to my Poweradjusts for them to work correctly. Of course, I can't set different addresses to them until my system boots, and I install Aqua suite. If my Poweradjusts aren't set to different addresses, they should still run my pumps, right? I just won't be able to control the pumps until they're set up with different addresses. Is this correct? I also have 2 x Aquaero 6XTs. I'm using one of Aquacomputer's new Hubby7 to give me more USB ports, and every single one is being used off a single USB 2.0 port. I just want to make sure this won't create any issues initially until I can set them all up correctly.

I'll start pulling pieces out until I get video showing. This is a new MB, so the BIOS hasn't been previously setup with all my components. For the time being, I guess I should keep all the switches in default (XMP, SLI, etc) until I can at least get into the BIOS. I'll keep you posted.


----------



## jvillaveces

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bogga*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> It will be included with the next aquasuite version in about two weeks.
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> AWESOME!!!!
> 
> Thanks
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Would this be a "fix" for that pwm issue with the ek-pumps and the bq-fans?
Click to expand...

That issue is not a problem with the Aquaero, but with the "creative" implementations of PWM control by those (and other) manufacturers. The Aquaero conforms to ther Intel pwm spec, those components don't. Why should the resulting incompatibility be resolved by ruining the Aquaero's compliance with the spec?


----------



## Bogga

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> No, that has nothing to do with it. What you mean is a hardware issue with the pumps. That can not be fixed with an software update.


Oki dokie
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jvillaveces*
> 
> That issue is not a problem with the Aquaero, but with the "creative" implementations of PWM control by those (and other) manufacturers. The Aquaero conforms to ther Intel pwm spec, those components don't. Why should the resulting incompatibility be resolved by ruining the Aquaero's compliance with the spec?


I've no idea how these things work, hence the question


----------



## jvillaveces

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ashcroft*
> 
> Actually, I have a Poweradjust 2 with a shot USB system that when connected will stop the system from booting properly. The PA works just fine when connected via Aquabus but USB is useless.
> 
> I wouldn't expect this to be the same but I guess it may be possible. In my case the system freezes indefinitely on the post splash screen.
> 
> I really should have sent it back for repair or replacement years ago but because it still did what I wanted I didn't bother.
> 
> My guess, and its just a guess, as to why it causes that behaviour is that its similar to how a bad HDD can cause really slow or even failed boots because it somehow spoils the system self checking by not being completely broken or working as it should.


That sort of proves my point? The problem is not the PA or its connection, the problem is the "shot USB system"... The proper troubleshooting procedure is till to first itest the PSU, then make sure the mobo works as it should, then test each other component one by one


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jvillaveces*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *rolldog*
> 
> Ok, I finally finished all the cosmetic stuff I needed to do with my rig, and I've leak tested it, had the fans and lights operating while running everything with a jumper on my PSU, then finally hooked power to my MB, along with everything else, and I get nothing. The reset and power button on the MB (Asus X99 Deluxe II) light up, along with a couple of LEDs, but not even any of my fans ran, like they did when I was leak testing everything. I'm assuming that a cause for this might be because I have everything powered, or run/monitored through my Aquaeros and PAs.
> 
> Since I'm powering everything on for the first time, do I need to set anything specific on either one of my Aquaero 6XTs and/or set the addresses of my 3 PAs before any of my Aqua Computer stuff starts working or should my PC at least post, or allow me to access the BIOS to setup all my drives, etc? I'm running 2 Aquaero 6XTs, 3 Poweradjust Ultras, and 2 Farbwerks. Can I set the individual addresses for the Poweradjusts once my PC is up and running, or do I need to set the addresses beforehand? I was thinking I could just hook one up at a time, set the address, then hook another one up and set the address of that one, etc, since all I have besides this rig is a couple of laptops. I'm not sure if the addresses are set using the Aquaero or if they're set using Aquasuite only.
> 
> I'm trying to figure out why I'm not getting any power after hooking up all of my components, and I was wondering if my unconfigured Aqua Computer devices might prevent my PC from booting because of any conflicts, or should it not have a factor on anything? Also, I'm running 2 D5 Vario pumps, each through its own PA. Using the cable that came with the PA, with the MOLEX connector and 3 pin header for the pump RPM on one end and a 3 pin connector on the opposite end, doesn't the 3 pin connector from the D5 Vario connect to the fan connector on the PA? Since all of these components are hooked up via USB, is it possible that something may be creating a conflict, preventing my rig from powering up? If so, I'm assuming that if I unplug some of these USB devices and setup one component at a time might help. This is my first time using Aqua Computer components in a build, so I'm not sure if any of them might prevent my PC from booting up if nothing has been configured beforehand.
> 
> If anyone has any suggestions, I would appreciate it.
> 
> 
> 
> I don't think the Aquacomputer hardware, regardless of whether it is correctly connected or not, will interfere with your PC posting, unless you have connected a relay from one of the Aquaeros to the PSU for emergency shutdown and somehow botched the connection. Other than that, incorrectly connected or configured AC hardware will prevent you from using the Aquaero or controlling stuff in Aquasuite, or at worst fry an AC component, but I don't think it can stop your system from posting.
> Have you used a PSU tester to test your power supply? That would be step one. Step two would be to test your motherboard with a single stick of ram, then with all your ram. You need to figure out if your problem is the motherboard or something else. If the mobo passes, install your GPU(s) and try again. Inspect every connection in your system for loose cables, unseated connectors, etc. If you still can't identify the problem, simplify the electrical system it as much as possible: disconnect everything except the ATX and EPS -- does it post? now connect your pumps -- does it post? now SATA power -- does it post? Front panel USB? Front panel power? Lighting? Finally, the Aquaero and accessories, making sure to connect them to USB while the system disconnected from the wall.
> In my HTPC build about a year ago, I experienced a problem similar to yours, and the culprit ended up being a custom-made (bought, not made by me) ATX cable with an incorrect pinout. Fortunately all it did was prevent the system from starting, it could well have fried something.
> Always test the psu and every cable before putting the system together, and always breadboard the system before assembly so you can identify and replace faulty components without having to take apart the entire system.
Click to expand...

i had to comment on this.

first PSU testers are the SINGLE biggest waste of money you can find. not one, is worth a crap. you are far better getting a cheap multi meter for the same money spent on that junk.

*( talking these consumer grade psu testers, obviously )

1 they will pass failed wiring, all that has to happen is one of the wires makes good contact. ( ie connected right ) to "pass" ( and i use that term as loosely as possible
2 they dont test under load.
3 did i mention they are junk
i could go on but .... meh not worth my time ( and yes i own the one you mention and still trash ( imo )

a far better investment is a spare psu. you will find out quick if that is the culprit. i doubt in rolldogs case it is because his system boots when some stuff is removed

@rolldog if your system was under-powered you would be able to boot np. ANY electronic never "pulls" amps. amps are "pushed" basically you dont use more amps till you need to - when your pc is idle you have a low amp draw. when you have loaded your pc you r amp draw is highest.

back to your system. if you were overpowering your system when you loaded your system ( gaming, encoding, ect ) your pc would immediately cut power and you would need to remove power to reset it ( either unplug or shut off external psu power switch till capacitors are drained ) until your system would reboot

it sounds to me that youe either have something shorted ( either internally or to the case ) or a miss wired thing.

best thing to do is to either start with everything unplugged or everything plugged in. and either plug in /unplug something till unit fails to boot / starts to boot

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jvillaveces*
> 
> The self-test button on your PSU doesn't tell you much. You need to use a PSU tester, like the Thermaltake Dr Power II, which lets you test the PSU itself along with all of the cables.
> Given what you said about the way you wired your system, the fact that your fans and pumps spin is a good indication that the PSU is alive and the aquaero and pa's are working. But, if you're not getting to a q-code, you have a problem with one or more of your primary components. Start your system up with just a stick of ram, nothing else connected to the mobo, if necessary test with another stick, until it posts -- at this stage it would be best if you tested even without your cpu. If it doesn't post, your problem is either the ram (unlikely if no stick worked) or the mobo itself. When you get it to post, keep adding components one by one and re-testing. Eventually you will find the problem.
> 
> EDIT: There are several power-draw calculators online that you can use to estimate whether your PSU is powerful enough for your rig. It might be a good idea to figure that out before you start yanking wires and components


i trust the self test far more then any psu tester.

and no it does not test the cables. it tests a few wires in the cables but not all.

i have never heard of display cables keeping stuff from booting BAR extream ocing - which generally distorts does not keep stuff from booting


----------



## rolldog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *jvillaveces*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *rolldog*
> 
> Ok, I finally finished all the cosmetic stuff I needed to do with my rig, and I've leak tested it, had the fans and lights operating while running everything with a jumper on my PSU, then finally hooked power to my MB, along with everything else, and I get nothing. The reset and power button on the MB (Asus X99 Deluxe II) light up, along with a couple of LEDs, but not even any of my fans ran, like they did when I was leak testing everything. I'm assuming that a cause for this might be because I have everything powered, or run/monitored through my Aquaeros and PAs.
> 
> Since I'm powering everything on for the first time, do I need to set anything specific on either one of my Aquaero 6XTs and/or set the addresses of my 3 PAs before any of my Aqua Computer stuff starts working or should my PC at least post, or allow me to access the BIOS to setup all my drives, etc? I'm running 2 Aquaero 6XTs, 3 Poweradjust Ultras, and 2 Farbwerks. Can I set the individual addresses for the Poweradjusts once my PC is up and running, or do I need to set the addresses beforehand? I was thinking I could just hook one up at a time, set the address, then hook another one up and set the address of that one, etc, since all I have besides this rig is a couple of laptops. I'm not sure if the addresses are set using the Aquaero or if they're set using Aquasuite only.
> 
> I'm trying to figure out why I'm not getting any power after hooking up all of my components, and I was wondering if my unconfigured Aqua Computer devices might prevent my PC from booting because of any conflicts, or should it not have a factor on anything? Also, I'm running 2 D5 Vario pumps, each through its own PA. Using the cable that came with the PA, with the MOLEX connector and 3 pin header for the pump RPM on one end and a 3 pin connector on the opposite end, doesn't the 3 pin connector from the D5 Vario connect to the fan connector on the PA? Since all of these components are hooked up via USB, is it possible that something may be creating a conflict, preventing my rig from powering up? If so, I'm assuming that if I unplug some of these USB devices and setup one component at a time might help. This is my first time using Aqua Computer components in a build, so I'm not sure if any of them might prevent my PC from booting up if nothing has been configured beforehand.
> 
> If anyone has any suggestions, I would appreciate it.
> 
> 
> 
> I don't think the Aquacomputer hardware, regardless of whether it is correctly connected or not, will interfere with your PC posting, unless you have connected a relay from one of the Aquaeros to the PSU for emergency shutdown and somehow botched the connection. Other than that, incorrectly connected or configured AC hardware will prevent you from using the Aquaero or controlling stuff in Aquasuite, or at worst fry an AC component, but I don't think it can stop your system from posting.
> Have you used a PSU tester to test your power supply? That would be step one. Step two would be to test your motherboard with a single stick of ram, then with all your ram. You need to figure out if your problem is the motherboard or something else. If the mobo passes, install your GPU(s) and try again. Inspect every connection in your system for loose cables, unseated connectors, etc. If you still can't identify the problem, simplify the electrical system it as much as possible: disconnect everything except the ATX and EPS -- does it post? now connect your pumps -- does it post? now SATA power -- does it post? Front panel USB? Front panel power? Lighting? Finally, the Aquaero and accessories, making sure to connect them to USB while the system disconnected from the wall.
> In my HTPC build about a year ago, I experienced a problem similar to yours, and the culprit ended up being a custom-made (bought, not made by me) ATX cable with an incorrect pinout. Fortunately all it did was prevent the system from starting, it could well have fried something.
> Always test the psu and every cable before putting the system together, and always breadboard the system before assembly so you can identify and replace faulty components without having to take apart the entire system.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> i had to comment on this.
> 
> first PSU testers are the SINGLE biggest waste of money you can find. not one, is worth a crap. you are far better getting a cheap multi meter for the same money spent on that junk.
> 
> *( talking these consumer grade psu testers, obviously )
> 
> 1 they will pass failed wiring, all that has to happen is one of the wires makes good contact. ( ie connected right ) to "pass" ( and i use that term as loosely as possible
> 2 they dont test under load.
> 3 did i mention they are junk
> i could go on but .... meh not worth my time ( and yes i own the one you mention and still trash ( imo )
> 
> a far better investment is a spare psu. you will find out quick if that is the culprit. i doubt in rolldogs case it is because his system boots when some stuff is removed
> 
> @rolldog if your system was under-powered you would be able to boot np. ANY electronic never "pulls" amps. amps are "pushed" basically you dont use more amps till you need to - when your pc is idle you have a low amp draw. when you have loaded your pc you r amp draw is highest.
> 
> back to your system. if you were overpowering your system when you loaded your system ( gaming, encoding, ect ) your pc would immediately cut power and you would need to remove power to reset it ( either unplug or shut off external psu power switch till capacitors are drained ) until your system would reboot
> 
> it sounds to me that youe either have something shorted ( either internally or to the case ) or a miss wired thing.
> 
> best thing to do is to either start with everything unplugged or everything plugged in. and either plug in /unplug something till unit fails to boot / starts to boot
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *jvillaveces*
> 
> The self-test button on your PSU doesn't tell you much. You need to use a PSU tester, like the Thermaltake Dr Power II, which lets you test the PSU itself along with all of the cables.
> Given what you said about the way you wired your system, the fact that your fans and pumps spin is a good indication that the PSU is alive and the aquaero and pa's are working. But, if you're not getting to a q-code, you have a problem with one or more of your primary components. Start your system up with just a stick of ram, nothing else connected to the mobo, if necessary test with another stick, until it posts -- at this stage it would be best if you tested even without your cpu. If it doesn't post, your problem is either the ram (unlikely if no stick worked) or the mobo itself. When you get it to post, keep adding components one by one and re-testing. Eventually you will find the problem.
> 
> EDIT: There are several power-draw calculators online that you can use to estimate whether your PSU is powerful enough for your rig. It might be a good idea to figure that out before you start yanking wires and components
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> i trust the self test far more then any psu tester.
> 
> and no it does not test the cables. it tests a few wires in the cables but not all.
> 
> i have never heard of display cables keeping stuff from booting BAR extream ocing - which generally distorts does not keep stuff from booting
Click to expand...

I found the problem. The 4 pin EPS connector to the MB might be wired wrong. I started unplugging things that would prevent my system from powering up, and after some trial and error, when I unplugged the 4 pin EPS connector from the PSU, everything powered up and I was able to get into the BIOS. The 4 pin EPS connector is only half of the 8 pin EPS connector and wired exactly like the 8 pin, but only half of the connector plugs into the MB.

To keep my system free from unused wiring, I thought I was being smart by removing the 4 unused wires from the connector and only have 4 of the 8 wires hooked up on the cable. This way I wouldn't have to run the other 4 pin connector somewhere out of sight and tie in up. Apparently, this won't work. I'm not sure why unless the PSU can tell only 4 of the 8 wires in the connector aren't hooked up and then doesn't send any power through, but if this were the case, my PC would have booted anyway since this 4 pin connector is optional. I just wouldn't have got the extra power to OC my GPUs.

I need that extra power connector so I can OC my GPUs, so I'm going to have to put the other 4 wires back into the 8 pin connector. Before I hook it up though, I'm going to check the voltages of each connector on the end of the cable that plugs into the MB to make sure they weren't wired incorrectly by PPCs. This cable came with one of their sleeved PSU sets, and I'm using an extension made by Mainframe Customs, but it's only a 6" straight through extension where the cable is visible. I never would have guessed that this would have been the problem because even if the PSU had some feature where it wouldn't send power through the cable unless all cables were inside the connector, everything still should have booted up since this connection is optional.

Sent from my Pixel C using Tapatalk


----------



## Mega Man

also verify you are not mistakenly using pcie connector, its a very easy mistake (EPS vs pcie). Be thankful

The psu protections did their job and you didn't lose stuff


----------



## GTXJackBauer

Like Mega said, its either a PCIe 4 pin connector to give more power to PCIe or the 8 Pin connector for pretty darn high OCs for the CPU. If you're not going more then 5.0 Ghz in most cases, you won't need more then 4 pin again unless you're going to the extreme for the CPU.

In the end its a complex setup and you'll need to figure out and break down whats going on over there.

Sorry, I just left the bar not too long ago after the Cubs won the world series so bare with me.

Speaking of protection on AX1200, the first batch from release didn't come with OCP enabled by default. I had a complete blow out that took out a MB, GPU and a few other peripherals. They ended up months after releasing all their PSU's with a new firmware that enables it by default. That's why I asked when you got yours.


----------



## poceh

Hi guys,

I'm pretty new to the forums so apologize in advance if this topic has been covered already back in the thread. I've tread the thread search multiple times and also searching on aquacomputer forums, but haven't had a chance to find any solution to my problem.

I own an Aquaero 5 XT, PA 2 and now a MPS flow sensor 400. The sensor is connected both via USB and Aquabus. That's why I can see its separate menu option in the Aquasuite program and control its configuration, calibration curve, etc. The problem comes with the aquabus. In the System tab of Aquaero I can only see for "Currently connected aquabus devices" only "poweradjust as fan 5, bus address 50", but no mention of MPS flow 400 sensor. Also flow meter sensor, its temp sensor etc are not available in the sensors tab of aquaero.

I've tried multiple setups, removed Y cable and connected only straight 4 pin aquabus cable between MPS meter and Aquaero - still not recognized as aquabus device. Tried with another cable - same. Tried reinstalling the aquasuite app and several hard shutdowns of the PC to remove any left power on the device as well. I'm pretty sure that before installing the MPS flow sensor 400 into the water loop (i.e. just connecting the USB and aquabus cables when holding the MPS sensor at hand) the sensor has been detected successfully as a separate aquabus device. But now I can't do anything to show it up in the sensors tab. And I can't use it fully as a power measurement along with the 2 temp sensors on the IN and OUT-lets of the radiator.

Do you have some insight on that problem?






Thanks!


----------



## poceh

Well that's strange, I've managed to make it work. When I've replaced the 4 pin aquabus cable with 3 pin one then everything started showing up in the sensors tabs, as well as in the aquabus connected devices! When connected with 4 pin cable and with USB at the same time or only connected via 4 pin, there wasn't any aquabus connection. But now with 3pin cable and USB at the same time (thus providing power to the mps sensor) everything's working well....

I've tested now all pins of the 4 pin cable with multimeter and cable seems fine.


----------



## Mega Man

Hmm that is weird glad you got it working however


----------



## jsutter71

I'm having a similar problem which is the second time I've had this problem in the last week. All my devices are connected the same way. Through USB and aquabus. All my devices are seen through USB but none through aquabus. The problem occurs after I turn off my system and add or remove any devices to my Aquaero. The last time I had this issue swapped out my splitty9, which did not fix it, so I tried moving some of the devices around on the splitty9, which did fix it.

Now this time the problem occurred when I noticed that my LED strips were not properly showing the correct colors which had to do with the power connections. I decided to consolidate down from 2 to 1 farbwerks, In the process I have fixed my lighting issue for the time being, but now once again I am having issues with the aquabus connections not showing. I tried the same solution as last time with no success. All the usual troubleshooting steps were attempted. Swapping cables, checking jumper on the spiltty, and making sure the devices were properly connected. I also powered everything down and removed the power connection to the Aquaero. Any thoughts, ideas, solutions?


----------



## InfoSeeker

MPS Flow Sensor & Hubby7 question.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> Not really complicated.
> 
> 
> 
> 1.) Make sure that mps flow sensor is selected (should be already preset)
> 
> 2.) Select your type of the sensor (should be already preset)
> 
> 3.) Select your type of tubing or the next size that fits; 13/10 is fine for everything larger
> 
> 4.) Import the calibration data and you are ready to go
> 
> Maybe you have to shutdown the system and wait a moment so the automatic calibration for zero flow can do its job.


So the system needs to be shutdown for the MPS Flow Sensors to calibrate the zero value.
Does this still work with the aquaero connected to a Hubby7 taking power from the PSU?

The hubby7 documentation states:
Quote:


> *Jumper position 1-2 closed:* Power supplied via USB IN. Maximum current
> for all ports 500 mA combined. Depending on motherboard configuration,
> the hub will also be powered during standby and connected devices
> may be used to wake the PC up from standby.
> 
> *Jumper position 2-3 closed:* Power supplied via SATA power connector.
> Maximum current for all ports 1000 mA combined, split up as 500 mA
> for ports 1, 2 and 3 combined and 500 mA for ports 4, 5, 6 and 7
> combined. Connect SATA POWER to an available connector of you PSU.
> No power is supplied during standby.


I assume no power during stand-by also means no power with the system off?

Bottom line, do we loose MPS flow sensor zero calibration if the sensor/aquaero are connected to a Hubby 7, with the Hubby 7 set to take power from the PSU?


----------



## jsutter71

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jsutter71*
> 
> I'm having a similar problem which is the second time I've had this problem in the last week. All my devices are connected the same way. Through USB and aquabus. All my devices are seen through USB but none through aquabus. The problem occurs after I turn off my system and add or remove any devices to my Aquaero. The last time I had this issue swapped out my splitty9, which did not fix it, so I tried moving some of the devices around on the splitty9, which did fix it.
> 
> Now this time the problem occurred when I noticed that my LED strips were not properly showing the correct colors which had to do with the power connections. I decided to consolidate down from 2 to 1 farbwerks, In the process I have fixed my lighting issue for the time being, but now once again I am having issues with the aquabus connections not showing. I tried the same solution as last time with no success. All the usual troubleshooting steps were attempted. Swapping cables, checking jumper on the spiltty, and making sure the devices were properly connected. I also powered everything down and removed the power connection to the Aquaero. Any thoughts, ideas, solutions?


Problem solved. after a little more troubleshooting I discovered that 2 of the pins for the aquabus connector on the bottom of my reservoir pump were squeezed together. Once the pins were separated the signal reappeared and all my devices began to show on the Aquaero.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *InfoSeeker*
> 
> MPS Flow Sensor & Hubby7 question.
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> Not really complicated.
> 
> 
> 
> 1.) Make sure that mps flow sensor is selected (should be already preset)
> 
> 2.) Select your type of the sensor (should be already preset)
> 
> 3.) Select your type of tubing or the next size that fits; 13/10 is fine for everything larger
> 
> 4.) Import the calibration data and you are ready to go
> 
> Maybe you have to shutdown the system and wait a moment so the automatic calibration for zero flow can do its job.
> 
> 
> 
> So the system needs to be shutdown for the MPS Flow Sensors to calibrate the zero value.
> Does this still work with the aquaero connected to a Hubby7 taking power from the PSU?
> 
> The hubby7 documentation states:
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> *Jumper position 1-2 closed:* Power supplied via USB IN. Maximum current
> for all ports 500 mA combined. Depending on motherboard configuration,
> the hub will also be powered during standby and connected devices
> may be used to wake the PC up from standby.
> 
> *Jumper position 2-3 closed:* Power supplied via SATA power connector.
> Maximum current for all ports 1000 mA combined, split up as 500 mA
> for ports 1, 2 and 3 combined and 500 mA for ports 4, 5, 6 and 7
> combined. Connect SATA POWER to an available connector of you PSU.
> No power is supplied during standby.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> I assume no power during stand-by also means no power with the system off?
> 
> Bottom line, do we loose MPS flow sensor zero calibration if the sensor/aquaero are connected to a Hubby 7, with the Hubby 7 set to take power from the PSU?
Click to expand...

AFAIK it saves it
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jsutter71*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *jsutter71*
> 
> I'm having a similar problem which is the second time I've had this problem in the last week. All my devices are connected the same way. Through USB and aquabus. All my devices are seen through USB but none through aquabus. The problem occurs after I turn off my system and add or remove any devices to my Aquaero. The last time I had this issue swapped out my splitty9, which did not fix it, so I tried moving some of the devices around on the splitty9, which did fix it.
> 
> Now this time the problem occurred when I noticed that my LED strips were not properly showing the correct colors which had to do with the power connections. I decided to consolidate down from 2 to 1 farbwerks, In the process I have fixed my lighting issue for the time being, but now once again I am having issues with the aquabus connections not showing. I tried the same solution as last time with no success. All the usual troubleshooting steps were attempted. Swapping cables, checking jumper on the spiltty, and making sure the devices were properly connected. I also powered everything down and removed the power connection to the Aquaero. Any thoughts, ideas, solutions?
> 
> 
> 
> Problem solved. after a little more troubleshooting I discovered that 2 of the pins for the aquabus connector on the bottom of my reservoir pump were squeezed together. Once the pins were separated the signal reappeared and all my devices began to show on the Aquaero.
Click to expand...

Good, ya I was gonna say check aquabus wires for aorta when heading the forest part (the one you quoted) but I was thinking the pins from the PCB were shorting to your desk


----------



## InfoSeeker

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> AFAIK it saves it


I seem to remember seeing a comment by Shoggy that the zero value of the MPS Flow Sensors require regular calibration, and that this was done when the system was powered down. I have searched the aquacomputer forums, but have not been able to get a search term that located the post.

I guess the sensor would still need to get that first calibration done, were it a savable value.


----------



## Revan654

I remember a while back their might have been issues with BeQuiet Silent Wings 3. Will those fans work with aquaero 6 XT?


----------



## mrkambo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> I remember a while back their might have been issues with BeQuiet Silent Wings 3. Will those fans work with aquaero 6 XT?


Im using 7 SW3 with 6XT have no issues whats so ever! Is there anything specific that was the issue?


----------



## Shoggy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mrkambo*
> 
> Im using 7 SW3 with 6XT have no issues whats so ever! Is there anything specific that was the issue?


It only affects the PWM variant. Look here for details.


----------



## mrkambo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> It only affects the PWM variant. Look here for details.


I am using the PWM variant and have not come across the problem documented here


----------



## miller330i

There were reviews saying it would not work right with some motherboards.


----------



## mrkambo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *miller330i*
> 
> There were reviews saying it would not work right with some motherboards.


I see well im using an EVGA X99 FTW-K motherboard with the latest BIOS, is there anything i can do my end to reproduce it?


----------



## miller330i

I hope not! It's like telling the Doctor "I hurt myself doing this, and the Doctor says, then don't do that again".


----------



## Kenjiwing

I could use some help all..

I have a aquaero 5 LT and I just recently bought a Aquabus D5 pump. I also have 4 PWM capable fans.

I want to be able to control the d5 and the 4 pwm fans from my Aquaero.

What is the best way to do this? Do I need to make a 4-1 pwm adapter and then plug that into the aquaero? Also where would I plug the aquabus in and the pwm fans?

TY!!!


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mrkambo*
> 
> Im using 7 SW3 with 6XT have no issues whats so ever! Is there anything specific that was the issue?


Ok, now to actual find a store that sells the non High Speed 120mm PWM fans. Since newegg removed them from their site for some reason.


----------



## mrkambo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> Ok, now to actual find a store that sells the non High Speed 120mm PWM fans. Since newegg removed them from their site for some reason.


Define non high speed, i run the 1000rpm ones at 650rpm


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mrkambo*
> 
> Define non high speed, i run the 1000rpm ones at 650rpm


Silent Wings 3 come in Normal and High Speed versions.


----------



## rolldog

I finally got my system up and running, installed all the drivers for my new MB and downloaded and installed Aqua suite. Aqua Suite recognized one of my Aquaero 6XT and recognized both of my PAs plugged into that 6XT, recognized the PA plugged into my 2nd 6XT, updated the firmware for each device, but it doesn't list my 2nd Aquaero 6XT even though it recognizes the PA plugged into it.

Do I need to adjust something in Aqua Suite so it will show my 2nd Aquaero? When I show the info screen on each Aquaero, the one being recognized shows the most recent firmware being installed but the other one still shows the older firmware. Do I need to change a setting somewhere on the Aquaero 6XT that is showing up in Aqua Suite so it will recognize my 2nd Aquaero 6XT? Currently, every device is hooked up via Aquabus and USB.

I would really appreciate any suggestions I can make so both Aquaeros are shown in Aqua Suite. Thanks!


----------



## InfoSeeker

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rolldog*
> 
> I finally got my system up and running, installed all the drivers for my new MB and downloaded and installed Aqua suite. Aqua Suite recognized one of my Aquaero 6XT and recognized both of my PAs plugged into that 6XT, recognized the PA plugged into my 2nd 6XT, updated the firmware for each device, but it doesn't list my 2nd Aquaero 6XT even though it recognizes the PA plugged into it.
> 
> Do I need to adjust something in Aqua Suite so it will show my 2nd Aquaero? When I show the info screen on each Aquaero, the one being recognized shows the most recent firmware being installed but the other one still shows the older firmware. Do I need to change a setting somewhere on the Aquaero 6XT that is showing up in Aqua Suite so it will recognize my 2nd Aquaero 6XT? Currently, every device is hooked up via Aquabus and USB.
> 
> I would really appreciate any suggestions I can make so both Aquaeros are shown in Aqua Suite. Thanks!


Could you describe the USB path from the motherboard USB port for the aquaero missing in aquasuite, inclusive any splitty9s, etc.


----------



## Shoggy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *InfoSeeker*
> 
> Bottom line, do we loose MPS flow sensor zero calibration if the sensor/aquaero are connected to a Hubby 7, with the Hubby 7 set to take power from the PSU?


Yes, you will have to do a manual zero flow calibration in the software if the flow value shows strange numbers.


----------



## RDKing2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kenjiwing*
> 
> I could use some help all..
> 
> I have a aquaero 5 LT and I just recently bought a Aquabus D5 pump. I also have 4 PWM capable fans.
> 
> I want to be able to control the d5 and the 4 pwm fans from my Aquaero.
> 
> What is the best way to do this? Do I need to make a 4-1 pwm adapter and then plug that into the aquaero? Also where would I plug the aquabus in and the pwm fans?
> 
> TY!!!


If it is an Aquabus pump it does not hook up to PWM it connects to power and Aquabus, also can be connected and controlled by USB. Unless you need to control the fans at different speeds you can just connect them together with a splitter or hub. ON the fans I use I have had over 14 connected to a single fan output. Currently run 8 fans each on two outputs and two fans each on the other two outputs. The AQ5 only has one PWM output so you will need to connect the fans together.
Connect fans to the only 4 pin fan output (fan 4 I think) and configure for PWM output or fans will run at full speed. Connect pump to Aquabus High (and power)


----------



## outofmyheadyo

Finally got my usb cable for my aquaero 6 pro and I must say this baby is the best fan controller I have ever used, did not dissapoint me at all, aquasuite is fantastic aswell.


----------



## rolldog

I have everything hooked up to a HUBBY7 from the MB.


----------



## InfoSeeker

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rolldog*
> 
> I have everything hooked up to a HUBBY7 from the MB.


-

If I read your post right, I see two AQ6s and three PAs attached to the Hubby7.
Is anything else attached to the Hubby7 (i.e. flow sensor)?
Are you using the PSU power connection for the Hubby7?

One thing you might try is swap the USB connector from the detected AQ6 to the undetected AQ6, leaving the hubby end where it is.


----------



## Kenjiwing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RDKing2*
> 
> If it is an Aquabus pump it does not hook up to PWM it connects to power and Aquabus, also can be connected and controlled by USB. Unless you need to control the fans at different speeds you can just connect them together with a splitter or hub. ON the fans I use I have had over 14 connected to a single fan output. Currently run 8 fans each on two outputs and two fans each on the other two outputs. The AQ5 only has one PWM output so you will need to connect the fans together.
> Connect fans to the only 4 pin fan output (fan 4 I think) and configure for PWM output or fans will run at full speed. Connect pump to Aquabus High (and power)


TY for taking the time to type that out... do you know of any good 4 to 1 adapters? All the ones I look at have stupid external power on them.


----------



## apw63

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kenjiwing*
> 
> TY for taking the time to type that out... do you know of any good 4 to 1 adapters? All the ones I look at have stupid external power on them.


DeepCool Fan Hub - CPU Cooler / Case / Chasis Cooling Fan Power Cable Splitter 1 to 4 Adapter - PWM Supported


----------



## RDKing2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kenjiwing*
> 
> TY for taking the time to type that out... do you know of any good 4 to 1 adapters? All the ones I look at have stupid external power on them.


Never used the one mentioned in the previous post. May work fine. Some of the splitters do not omit the rpm lead on all outputs except one for proper rpm signal. I use the swiftech 8 fan hub and akasa splitters. They have molex or sata power inputs so power draw is not registered to the aquaero. With a little work the 12v power could be put back into the 4 pin fan connector if desired. Aquacomputer just released some hubs of their own. Might want to check them out.


----------



## Ginja ninja

Hi everyone!

I am hoping someone can shed some light on an issue I am having with my Aquero D5 PWM pump. I have it hooked up to the PWM header on my Aquaero 5 LT and I don't appear to be getting an RPM signal. I opened up the pump and checked the connection with a multimeter and all ok, am I missing something or should I replace the pump?



Many thanks in advance

J


----------



## outofmyheadyo

This might of been answered before, but can i turn off my aquaero 6 pro screen ? It will be inside my thermaltake P5 anyway, only using the aquasuite to change stuff, no need for the screen to be on at all.


----------



## ruffhi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *outofmyheadyo*
> 
> This might of been answered before, but can i turn off my aquaero 6 pro screen ? It will be inside my thermaltake P5 anyway, only using the aquasuite to change stuff, no need for the screen to be on at all.


I had the same question. Check Aquasuite and look for screen dimming. You can turn it down to zero (black).


----------



## apw63

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ginja ninja*
> 
> Hi everyone!
> 
> I am hoping someone can shed some light on an issue I am having with my Aquero D5 PWM pump. I have it hooked up to the PWM header on my Aquaero 5 LT and I don't appear to be getting an RPM signal. I opened up the pump and checked the connection with a multimeter and all ok, am I missing something or should I replace the pump?
> 
> 
> 
> Many thanks in advance
> 
> J


I do not know the rpm range of the D5 pump. One thing to look at is if your scale of your graph is to low for the pump to register a readout.


----------



## GTXJackBauer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ginja ninja*
> 
> Hi everyone!
> 
> I am hoping someone can shed some light on an issue I am having with my Aquero D5 PWM pump. I have it hooked up to the PWM header on my Aquaero 5 LT and I don't appear to be getting an RPM signal. I opened up the pump and checked the connection with a multimeter and all ok, am I missing something or should I replace the pump?
> 
> 
> 
> Many thanks in advance
> 
> J


One thing I can think of is making sure its set to PWM in the AQ software channel settings.


----------



## InfoSeeker

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *outofmyheadyo*
> 
> This might of been answered before, but can i turn off my aquaero 6 pro screen ? It will be inside my thermaltake P5 anyway, only using the aquasuite to change stuff, no need for the screen to be on at all.


Yes, you can remove the display module from the aquaero 6 Pro and make it an aquaero 6 LT.


----------



## saintruski

Few questions, i have 2 D5 pumps. is there a way to hook both up to 1 aquero 6 XT. i dont get how the difference between aquabus and the usb connections. cant i just hook both pumps and the controller to the board with the USB connections the control all 3 with software?

OR do both pumps need to have a connection to the aquabus high on the controller?

also if it does work with everthing over USB WITHOUT aquabus connection, will it work with a USB splitter? i only have 2 internal usb connectors.


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *saintruski*
> 
> Few questions, i have 2 D5 pumps. is there a way to hook both up to 1 aquero 6 XT. i dont get how the difference between aquabus and the usb connections. cant i just hook both pumps and the controller to the board with the USB connections the control all 3 with software?
> 
> OR do both pumps need to have a connection to the aquabus high on the controller?
> 
> also if it does work with everthing over USB WITHOUT aquabus connection, will it work with a USB splitter? i only have 2 internal usb connectors.


Yes it will work with a splitter or a internal usb splitter like the be low item

NZXT IU01 USB 2.0 Internal Expansion Module Model: NZXT-IU01


----------



## GTXJackBauer

You could have both connections USB and Aquabus high and pick between the two you feel more comfortable with. You can also look at AQ's SPLITTY9 for a Fan/Aquabus Hub or a HUBBY7 as a USB Hub.


----------



## InfoSeeker

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *saintruski*
> 
> Few questions, i have 2 D5 pumps. is there a way to hook both up to 1 aquero 6 XT. i dont get how the difference between aquabus and the usb connections. cant i just hook both pumps and the controller to the board with the USB connections the control all 3 with software?
> 
> OR do both pumps need to have a connection to the aquabus high on the controller?
> 
> also if it does work with everthing over USB WITHOUT aquabus connection, will it work with a USB splitter? i only have 2 internal usb connectors.


Assumption: Your pumps are aquacomputer D5 pump motor with USB and aquabus interface.

Difference between USB and aquabus for above D5 pump:
USB:
required to configure the device
allows manual speed/power control
need not remain connected after configuration
aquabus:
allows the aquaero to control the pump speed/power setting
need not be connected for the pump to function

Since pumps are generally considered set and forget, they do NOT require either USB or aquabus after configuration.

I keep BOTH USB and aquabus connected so I can examine the configuration profile anytime, and it allows me to control both pumps simultaneously with a set-point controller.


----------



## faxfan2002

I have a similar question but I think I know the answer reading the above -

-> Aquaero XT ultra pump
-> Aquaero 6 XT

All connected via USB.

To create a curve for the pump do I need to connect the pump and 6 XT via Aquabus?


----------



## faxfan2002

Sorry guys another couple of questions when I go to setup a curve -

-> The only data sources I'm seeing are "Water Tempature", "Software Sensor 1 - 8" and "Fan amplifier 1 - 4". I'm looking for sensors from HWINFO to setup a curve based on GPU temp

-> I don't see a output for pump, the pump section in "aquaero" blank but I see a "aquaero XT" section where I can manually control the pump

As per previous question everything is connected via USB with the latest firmware and software.

Thanks!


----------



## InfoSeeker

@faxfan2002:
I don't think you want your pump speed controlled by your GPU temperature.
That temperature fluctuates too much, too quickly.
Find a flow rate you are comfortable with and leave it alone.


----------



## faxfan2002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *InfoSeeker*
> 
> @faxfan2002:
> I don't think you want your pump speed controlled by your GPU temperature.
> That temperature fluctuates too much, too quickly.
> Find a flow rate you are comfortable with and leave it alone.


OK, kinda of agree but having the fans linked to GPU temp doesn't seem unreasonable but seemingly I can only link to water temp right now...


----------



## GTXJackBauer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *InfoSeeker*
> 
> @faxfan2002:
> I don't think you want your pump speed controlled by your GPU temperature.
> That temperature fluctuates too much, too quickly.
> Find a flow rate you are comfortable with and leave it alone.


This or use the water temp if you're using a water temp sensor. That's what I use and my pumps and fans gradually change to their specific curves. Works amazing and fun to watch over time, along with the RGB ambient lighting changes.

If you want more control, stick with Aquabus but you could have both connections in place if you ever decide to change your mind down the road.


----------



## Trestles126

anyone have issues with HWinfo not starting up with windows 10 even though all options are selected for startup run?

i have to turn it on at start up to get my software sensors to work.

i also have password at windows start maybe thats the culprite


----------



## InfoSeeker

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *faxfan2002*
> 
> OK, kinda of agree but having the fans linked to GPU temp doesn't seem unreasonable but seemingly I can only link to water temp right now...


Even the fans I would not tie to GPU temp.

Regarding seeing HWiNFO values in aquasuite:
1, ensure HWiNFO is set to use Shared Memory - it should be the default installation status, but...
2. check that aquasuite has Windows Services activated - also the default status, but...

As to controlling the fans, as GTXJackBauer alluded, try a software sensor that is the delta between water temp and ambient temp.
As the delta increases, increase the fan speed, and vice versa.
Tying it to ambient normalizes the curve for room temperature changes.


----------



## InfoSeeker

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Trestles126*
> 
> anyone have issues with HWinfo not starting up with windows 10 even though all options are selected for startup run?
> 
> i have to turn it on at start up to get my software sensors to work.
> 
> i also have password at windows start maybe thats the culprite


You may also want to post your query at the HWiNFO forum - Martin is very responsive.


----------



## faxfan2002

I don't believe HWINFO is the issue, I can see it as a data source when I create graphs etc. I just can't see it when wanting to create a curve I have very limited options on datasource's i.e. "Water Temperature", "Software Sensor 1 - 8" and "Fan amplifier 1 - 4". I'm a heavy gamer and I'm sure in previous versions of aquasuite I've linked the fan curve to GPU which worked really well.

I find it really strange that this ability to create curves is very limited - seemingly unable to read GPU / CPU temp or load or output to the pump to increase flow rate (I get the argument on not controlling the pump on a curve but still manual only control?).


----------



## InfoSeeker

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *faxfan2002*
> 
> I don't believe HWINFO is the issue, I can see it as a data source when I create graphs etc. I just can't see it when wanting to create a curve I have very limited options on datasource's i.e. "Water Temperature", "Software Sensor 1 - 8" and "Fan amplifier 1 - 4". I'm a heavy gamer and I'm sure in previous versions of aquasuite I've linked the fan curve to GPU which worked really well.
> 
> I find it really strange that this ability to create curves is very limited - seemingly unable to read GPU / CPU temp or load or output to the pump to increase flow rate (I get the argument on not controlling the pump on a curve but still manual only control?).


Ahh, I see... the aquaero cannot use values from HWiNFO directly.
You must make a software sensor first.
Then use the software sensor to drive your curve.


----------



## faxfan2002

I was just posting exactly the same thing, finally found the little sod hiding away. Thank you!


----------



## rolldog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *InfoSeeker*
> 
> -
> 
> If I read your post right, I see two AQ6s and three PAs attached to the Hubby7.
> Is anything else attached to the Hubby7 (i.e. flow sensor)?
> Are you using the PSU power connection for the Hubby7?
> 
> One thing you might try is swap the USB connector from the detected AQ6 to the undetected AQ6, leaving the hubby end where it is.


After looking at everything up close, I noticed the USB was hooked up wrong. I hooked it up and missed one of the pins (too many wires to deal with). After unplugging it and connecting it correctly, everything is being recognized. I guess I was so anxious to finish everything up, I missed one of the 5 pins on the USB connector. That was a pretty easy fix. It's so difficult to see all the connectors, which are partly being blocked by my 2 x 250mm reservoirs.

Well, AquaSuite is now showing everything. Now I just need to spend some time learning how to set everything up. What software is it that I can install where AquaSuite can get some reading from, is it HWINFO?

Nevermind this question. After it posted, I saw the answer in the post just above me.

Thanks for your help, even though this could have been completely avoided had I taken my time when hooking everything up.


----------



## InfoSeeker

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Trestles126*
> 
> anyone have issues with HWinfo not starting up with windows 10 even though all options are selected for startup run?
> 
> i have to turn it on at start up to get my software sensors to work.
> 
> i also have password at windows start maybe thats the culprite


One other thought... have you examined the Windows Task Scheduler to see if HWiNFO is listed there?
If not, you can add it manually.
I don't think having a password setting should matter as the scheduler is tied to your profile.
Edit: May try deselecting "Run only when user is logged in" if using PW


----------



## angel0death

Hey, just wondering if there are any guides on using the Aquaero 6 USB LCD page output, just figured it would be a cool thing to mess with, Thanks!


----------



## Reglar

I'm having a problem with Poweradjust 3 Ultra and Fan current limiting, and wanted to see if anyone here could give me some advice.

Setup:

Aquaero 6 Pro with the form fit heatsink and latest firmware
2 Farbwerks
2 D5 pumps with the Aquaero interfaces (aquabus, USB, temp in, etc)
7 Poweradjust 3 Ultras with the new form fit heat sinks (love those over the PA 2's)
Everything is addressed correctly (see below)



So I have 11 fan outputs, and have mapped them as follows:

Top rad motherboard side - the back 2 top and bottom fans over the motherboard (so I can control the flow over it)
Top rad motherboard side - the top 2 fans
Top rad motherboard side - the bottom 2 fans
Front rad - the top front and back fans (again control the airflow over the motherboard)
Front rad - the other 2 front fans
Front rad - the other back 2 fans
Top rad PSU side - the top 4 fans
Top rad PSU side - the bottom 4 fans
Bottom rad motherboard side
Bottom rad PSU side
The 4 case fans in the front on the PSU side
I started connecting the fans in this order, which means fan groups 9 and 10 end up on 2 poweradjusts; each has 8 fans at 0.18 Amps each, so full load of 8 drives over 1 Amp.

When I hooked them up, I had a problem where there seemed to be current protection kicking in, when the current went over 1.0 Amps, the current was cut back, resulting in the fan power cutting back (as measured by the RPMs). I thought ok, let me turn on the programmable fuse, which I did, setting it at 2.0 amp, and no change in behavior. I believe that programmable fuse really is only for catching over current situations, as it did not change the behavior at all.

So I moved the 8 fan lines to the main unit (Aquaero 6 Pro), and the current stayed over 1.0 and the fan RPMs stayed constant (~2000).

Now I can move stuff around so my 8 fan wires sit on the main unit, but I really thought this wouldn't be a problem on the PA 3 Ultras. I thought the fan outputs could support up to 3 Amps, with temp over current of 4.5 Amps.

Anyone any advice for me on how I could get these over 1.0 amp fan outputs to stay at max amperage on the PA 3 Ultras? Am I doing something wrong?

I did reconnect the PA 3 Ultras to USB (and disconnected the Aquabus lines) to see if there was some base unit setting, I found one related to adjusting the current measurement up or down, but it didn't seem to make a difference.

I have also reset to factory defaults the main unit, the PA 3 Ultras, and done a fresh (new) install of the aquasuite.


----------



## InfoSeeker

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *angel0death*
> 
> Hey, just wondering if there are any guides on using the Aquaero 6 USB LCD page output, just figured it would be a cool thing to mess with, Thanks!


Not positive, but I think you are looking for information on controlling the display pages shown on the aquaero LCD display module.

I believe the aquaero manual, covers that, starting on page 37, section 16 "User interface configuration (aquasuite/device menu, aquaero 5/6 XT/PRO only)".

It is not overly comprehensive, so experimentation and asking specific questions when stumped will probably be required.


----------



## Shoggy

That screen can be used with LCDHype. The necessary plugin is in the installation folder of the aquasuite (aquaerolcdhype.zip).


----------



## RDKing2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Reglar*
> 
> I'm having a problem with Poweradjust 3 Ultra and Fan current limiting, and wanted to see if anyone here could give me some advice.
> 
> Setup:
> 
> Aquaero 6 Pro with the form fit heatsink and latest firmware
> 2 Farbwerks
> 2 D5 pumps with the Aquaero interfaces (aquabus, USB, temp in, etc)
> 7 Poweradjust 3 Ultras with the new form fit heat sinks (love those over the PA 2's)
> Everything is addressed correctly (see below)
> 
> 
> 
> So I have 11 fan outputs, and have mapped them as follows:
> 
> Top rad motherboard side - the back 2 top and bottom fans over the motherboard (so I can control the flow over it)
> Top rad motherboard side - the top 2 fans
> Top rad motherboard side - the bottom 2 fans
> Front rad - the top front and back fans (again control the airflow over the motherboard)
> Front rad - the other 2 front fans
> Front rad - the other back 2 fans
> Top rad PSU side - the top 4 fans
> Top rad PSU side - the bottom 4 fans
> Bottom rad motherboard side
> Bottom rad PSU side
> The 4 case fans in the front on the PSU side
> I started connecting the fans in this order, which means fan groups 9 and 10 end up on 2 poweradjusts; each has 8 fans at 0.18 Amps each, so full load of 8 drives over 1 Amp.
> 
> When I hooked them up, I had a problem where there seemed to be current protection kicking in, when the current went over 1.0 Amps, the current was cut back, resulting in the fan power cutting back (as measured by the RPMs). I thought ok, let me turn on the programmable fuse, which I did, setting it at 2.0 amp, and no change in behavior. I believe that programmable fuse really is only for catching over current situations, as it did not change the behavior at all.
> 
> So I moved the 8 fan lines to the main unit (Aquaero 6 Pro), and the current stayed over 1.0 and the fan RPMs stayed constant (~2000).
> 
> Now I can move stuff around so my 8 fan wires sit on the main unit, but I really thought this wouldn't be a problem on the PA 3 Ultras. I thought the fan outputs could support up to 3 Amps, with temp over current of 4.5 Amps.
> 
> Anyone any advice for me on how I could get these over 1.0 amp fan outputs to stay at max amperage on the PA 3 Ultras? Am I doing something wrong?
> 
> I did reconnect the PA 3 Ultras to USB (and disconnected the Aquabus lines) to see if there was some base unit setting, I found one related to adjusting the current measurement up or down, but it didn't seem to make a difference.
> I have also reset to factory defaults the main unit, the PA 3 Ultras, and done a fresh (new) install of the aquasuite.


Only a couple of things I can think of. If happening at fan startup use the boost at startup. I use PA2's on my pumps which see more current with no problem. The 3's handle more current. Maybe thermal related? I have mine behind a rad so they have plenty of air movement. There is an optional heatsink for the PA3's


----------



## Reglar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RDKing2*
> 
> Only a couple of things I can think of. If happening at fan startup use the boost at startup. I use PA2's on my pumps which see more current with no problem. The 3's handle more current. Maybe thermal related? I have mine behind a rad so they have plenty of air movement. There is an optional heatsink for the PA3's


Thanks for the ideas. Unfortunately it wasn't thermal (the PAs are reporting temps just below 40C). I did find out what it was though after more experimentation last night - the fan distribution cables i had bought - they have too much electrical resistance for the PAs. I had an old fan header PCB board and decided to see how that performed, and the amps stayed fairly constant and RPM was rock solid.

I originally didn't think it was the cables because I had swapped out the original cable with spares I had, with no change. The spares of course were the same actual cables though.

Now I need to find a store that has the Aquaero Splitty9s.


----------



## GTXJackBauer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Reglar*
> 
> Now I need to find a store that has the Aquaero Splitty9s.


PPCS. Last I checked they have 3 left so ya better hurry.


----------



## Reglar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GTXJackBauer*
> 
> PPCS. Last I checked they have 3 left so ya better hurry.


Snagged! Thanks for the heads up.


----------



## GTXJackBauer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Reglar*
> 
> Snagged! Thanks for the heads up.


Awesome!









I grabbed one of those and a HUBBY7 that replaced my old NZXT one. They look and feel solid.


----------



## InfoSeeker

I have been looking at the aquacomputer Hubby7 and the NZXT AC-IUSBH-M1 (IU01 replacement).
Below is a table I made comparing my take-away between the two devices.



The NZXT hub points 9 & 10 I took from my experience having used the older IU01.
Link to IU01 review.


----------



## kot0005

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ashcroft*
> 
> . Also: Please send a few A6Lt and the other new stuff down to PCCASEGEAR in Australia please. They haven't had any aquacomp gear for months.[/QUOTE]
> 
> This. Been paying international shipping and buying from Aquacomputer directly [IMG alt="frown.gif"]https://www.overclock.net/images/smilies/frown.gif


----------



## TheJackal83

Hi guys,

I'm finally able to finish my build ( testing and rounding thing up )
But it seems I have a problem with my Aquaero 6 XT.

I'm using a mod my toy to connect 4 Riing 12 fans.
I notes that that the speed is quite low.
Did I bought the wrong kind?
http://www.aquatuning.nl/kabels/ventilatorkabels-adapters/17796/modmytoys-3pin-molex-auf-4x-3pin-und-4x-2pin-splitter

But the main problem that I have are the pumps.
I have 2 aqua computer D5 pumps. Both of them I can connect trough the USB port.
I can see the RPM of the pumps in aqua suite. But one pump Is refusing to work normally.
It spins up for 3 sec. and then stops, repeatingly In a loop. While the other one runs fine when connected ( either from cold boot or in windows/aqua suite ( The speed drop is visible in aqua suite )
The pumps work fine when there connected power only.

When I try to connect the pumps trough the aquabus, I can see a USB icon with a red line on it.
The pumps won't become visible in aqua suite if I set the priority to aquabus.

Am I doing something wrong?
I also have 2 flowmeters, but I'll wait with those.

Thnx


----------



## watercoolingnam

Can I do with Aquaero 6 pro as follows
- Fan 1 -> Silverstone fan 1
- Fan 2 -> Silverstone fan 2
- Fan 3 -> Silverstone fan 3
- Fan 4 -> Koolance PMP-450 pump 1
- Aquabus-high -> Koolance PMP-450 pump 2

I need to see if (one of three fans) OR (one of two pumps) dies.


----------



## ForNever

[/quote]
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheJackal83*
> 
> Hi guys,
> 
> I'm finally able to finish my build ( testing and rounding thing up )
> But it seems I have a problem with my Aquaero 6 XT.
> 
> *I'm using a mod my toy to connect 4 Riing 12 fans.
> I notes that that the speed is quite low.*
> Did I bought the wrong kind?
> http://www.aquatuning.nl/kabels/ventilatorkabels-adapters/17796/modmytoys-3pin-molex-auf-4x-3pin-und-4x-2pin-splitter
> 
> But the main problem that I have are the pumps.
> I have 2 aqua computer D5 pumps. Both of them I can connect trough the USB port.
> I can see the RPM of the pumps in aqua suite. But one pump Is refusing to work normally.
> It spins up for 3 sec. and then stops, repeatingly In a loop. While the other one runs fine when connected ( either from cold boot or in windows/aqua suite ( The speed drop is visible in aqua suite )
> The pumps work fine when there connected power only.
> 
> When I try to connect the pumps trough the aquabus, I can see a USB icon with a red line on it.
> The pumps won't become visible in aqua suite if I set the priority to aquabus.
> 
> Am I doing something wrong?
> I also have 2 flowmeters, but I'll wait with those.
> 
> Thnx


Try disconnecting all but one fan, does it work ok then? I suspect the Aquaeros is getting confused due to the RPM signals being mixed together on one channel, but I'm not sure. If it's voltage control it shouldn't care what the tach says. Ahh, unless you don't have the fan channel set for voltage control? Sorry I can't help with the pump. I haven't used mine with a pump yet.


----------



## ForNever

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *watercoolingnam*
> 
> Can I do with Aquaero 6 pro as follows
> - Fan 1 -> Silverstone fan 1
> - Fan 2 -> Silverstone fan 2
> - Fan 3 -> Silverstone fan 3
> - Fan 4 -> Koolance PMP-450 pump 1
> - Aquabus-high -> Koolance PMP-450 pump 2
> 
> I need to see if (one of three fans) OR (one of two pumps) dies.


This configuration will work. You will have full control, and monitoring of all 3 fans, however you will only be able to *monitor* those pumps, not control them, since they are not PWM, and only the RPM signal cable would be connected to FAN4, and Aquabus-HIGH ports.FAN4 Koolance Pump. - See below, Thanks Jack.

As _toolmaker03_ pointed out in your thread, you could remedy this buy purchasing these instead of the Koolance pumps that require a 4 pin molex connector.


----------



## GTXJackBauer

Can't and shouldn't be connecting that Koolance pump to the Aquabus. Only pumps that have Aquabus ports are the specified Aquacomputer pumps only.


----------



## TheJackal83

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ForNever*


Quote:


> Try disconnecting all but one fan, does it work ok then? I suspect the Aquaeros is getting confused due to the RPM signals being mixed together on one channel, but I'm not sure. If it's voltage control it shouldn't care what the tach says. Ahh, unless you don't have the fan channel set for voltage control? Sorry I can't help with the pump. I haven't used mine with a pump yet.


Hey thanx for your reply.
The possible solution you gave didn't work. I think of the build in resistor that suppose to step the 12 volt down to 3.3 .
whitchone are you using?


----------



## ForNever

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheJackal83*
> 
> Hey thanx for your reply.
> The possible solution you gave didn't work. I think of the build in resistor that suppose to step the 12 volt down to 3.3 .
> whitchone are you using?


Are your fans currently set at 100% minimum in aquasuite yet? Do you have a curve controller set up?


----------



## TheJackal83

I can adjust the voltage. That's not a problem.
So making a curve preset for the fans will work.
Tonight I will desolder the resistor/capacitor and put a metal peace as replacement.
I'll post a update about how it went.


----------



## MrStrat007

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheJackal83*
> 
> I can adjust the voltage. That's not a problem.
> So making a curve preset for the fans will work.
> Tonight I will desolder the resistor/capacitor and put a metal peace as replacement.
> I'll post a update about how it went.


I think this is a bit hasty... While I don't have an aquaero myself to help, I believe there are others here who may be able to help you without having to desolder anything unnecessarily...


----------



## ForNever

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrStrat007*
> 
> I think this is a bit hasty... While I don't have an aquaero myself to help, I believe there are others here who may be able to help you without having to desolder anything unnecessarily...


I agree. Why would that molex expansion module be dropping your voltage from 12VDC? I didn't see anything about that in the item description you linked. Please try removing the fan expansion module from the equation by connecting one fan directly to the Aquaero if that is possible.


----------



## TheJackal83

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ForNever*
> 
> I agree. Why would that molex expansion module be dropping your voltage from 12VDC? I didn't see anything about that in the item description you linked. Please try removing the fan expansion module from the equation by connecting one fan directly to the Aquaero if that is possible.


Thanks for your reply.
I removed the resistor, Speed didn't change. I have 3 of those splitter, so dont worry about it.
When ik hook one fan on the Aquaero it works normally. Also one fan on the splitter, same result.

Update:
I found the culprit!
It was the wiring, I switched 2 cables, stupid.

But still no progress with the pump.


----------



## RDKing2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheJackal83*
> 
> Hi guys,
> 
> I'm finally able to finish my build ( testing and rounding thing up )
> But it seems I have a problem with my Aquaero 6 XT.
> 
> I'm using a mod my toy to connect 4 Riing 12 fans.
> I notes that that the speed is quite low.
> Did I bought the wrong kind?
> http://www.aquatuning.nl/kabels/ventilatorkabels-adapters/17796/modmytoys-3pin-molex-auf-4x-3pin-und-4x-2pin-splitter
> 
> But the main problem that I have are the pumps.
> I have 2 aqua computer D5 pumps. Both of them I can connect trough the USB port.
> I can see the RPM of the pumps in aqua suite. But one pump Is refusing to work normally.
> It spins up for 3 sec. and then stops, repeatingly In a loop. While the other one runs fine when connected ( either from cold boot or in windows/aqua suite ( The speed drop is visible in aqua suite )
> The pumps work fine when there connected power only.
> 
> When I try to connect the pumps trough the aquabus, I can see a USB icon with a red line on it.
> The pumps won't become visible in aqua suite if I set the priority to aquabus.
> 
> Am I doing something wrong?
> I also have 2 flowmeters, but I'll wait with those.
> 
> Thnx


Regarding control through Aquabus. D5 Aquabus pumps are MPS devices, there are 4 addresses available. All MPS devices must have their own address to be seen via aquabus. The address can be changed while connected with USB.


----------



## TheJackal83

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RDKing2*
> 
> Regarding control through Aquabus. D5 Aquabus pumps are MPS devices, there are 4 addresses available. All MPS devices must have their own address to be seen via aquabus. The address can be changed while connected with USB.


Not one device wil work on the aquabus.
So I don't think that its a ID situation.


----------



## g0barry

Hi Guys,

I wanted to get a couple of pointers on my first watercooling setup before I put my order in. I had a couple of questions as well.

I am planning on using a hex gear r80 case, in a dual loop setup, one loop to cool the cpu/mobo and the other for gpu. Was leaning towards two Alphacool NexXxos UT60 Full Copper Radiator 420, with three 140mm fans each.

Looking at the aqua computer's website, I have a pretty close part list, but open to suggestions. I'm open to changing this based on your experience and feedback.

Here are the parts I was looking at:

aquaero 6 XT USB fan controller, graphic LCD, touch control, IR remote control
Passive heat sink for aquaero 6, black
Aqua Computer D5 pump motor with USB and aquabus interface
Aqua Computer D5 pump motor with USB and aquabus interface
Real Time Clock expansion module for aquaero 5 und 6
aqualis D5 100 ml with nano coating, G1/4
aqualis D5 100 ml with nano coating, G1/4
Decoupling set for pump installations, extra-soft yellow rubber buffers
Decoupling set for pump installations, extra-soft yellow rubber buffers
Mounting set for aqualis D5
Mounting set for aqualis D5

Is there an advantage in running the temperature sensor inline or just plugged into the reservoir?
These are the two I was looking at,
Temperature sensor G1/4 for aquaero, aquastream XT and aquaduct
Temperature sensor inline G1/4 for aquaero, aquastream XT and aquaduct

They list several styles of flow sensors, what would you recommend for this kind of setup?

Alphacool NexXxos UT60 Full Copper Radiator 420, 140mm x 3, Triple Fan, Black
Alphacool NexXxos UT60 Full Copper Radiator 420, 140mm x 3, Triple Fan, Black

As far as fans, open to suggestions, and thought I would use a splitter to keep each set of three fans on one channel on the aquaero. Any suggestions on fans or fan splitters?

Thanks alot!


----------



## InfoSeeker

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *g0barry*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Hi Guys,
> 
> I wanted to get a couple of pointers on my first watercooling setup before I put my order in. I had a couple of questions as well.
> 
> I am planning on using a hex gear r80 case, in a dual loop setup, one loop to cool the cpu/mobo and the other for gpu. Was leaning towards two Alphacool NexXxos UT60 Full Copper Radiator 420, with three 140mm fans each.
> 
> Looking at the aqua computer's website, I have a pretty close part list, but open to suggestions. I'm open to changing this based on your experience and feedback.
> 
> 
> 
> Here are the parts I was looking at:
> 
> aquaero 6 XT USB fan controller, graphic LCD, touch control, IR remote control
> Passive heat sink for aquaero 6, black
> Aqua Computer D5 pump motor with USB and aquabus interface
> Aqua Computer D5 pump motor with USB and aquabus interface
> Real Time Clock expansion module for aquaero 5 und 6
> aqualis D5 100 ml with nano coating, G1/4
> aqualis D5 100 ml with nano coating, G1/4
> Decoupling set for pump installations, extra-soft yellow rubber buffers
> Decoupling set for pump installations, extra-soft yellow rubber buffers
> Mounting set for aqualis D5
> Mounting set for aqualis D5
> 
> Is there an advantage in running the temperature sensor inline or just plugged into the reservoir?
> These are the two I was looking at,
> Temperature sensor G1/4 for aquaero, aquastream XT and aquaduct
> Temperature sensor inline G1/4 for aquaero, aquastream XT and aquaduct
> 
> They list several styles of flow sensors, what would you recommend for this kind of setup?
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Alphacool NexXxos UT60 Full Copper Radiator 420, 140mm x 3, Triple Fan, Black
> Alphacool NexXxos UT60 Full Copper Radiator 420, 140mm x 3, Triple Fan, Black
> 
> As far as fans, open to suggestions, and thought I would use a splitter to keep each set of three fans on one channel on the aquaero. Any suggestions on fans or fan splitters?
> 
> Thanks alot!


I am not familiar with the case or radiators, so I will let others comment on them.

Your parts list looks fairly comprehensive, and I have just a couple comments.
1. The real time clock is probably not needed. It is only helpful if you do not maintain a USB connection to the aquaero.
2. The yellow decoupling devices can be done in black if desired. Options one, two, three.
3. I personally am biased toward the inline temperature sensor, because the reservoir may not be the same temp as the loop.
4. For flow sensors you may want to consider the MPS 400 or the High Flow USB.

As to fans, you will get as many varied suggestion as folks commenting.
Personally I like the Noctua Industrial line with chromax corners to match the build.


----------



## g0barry

Thanks for the feedback.

I was thinking about the clock module mainly for the extra aquabus interface it provides, so will probably drop it.

Is there a reason to use the aquabus interface on the components like pumps and flow meters that have USB instead of using USB? Do people use a small usb hub to run everything to their mobo? I am planning on reading the aquaero manual this weekend to get more familiar with it.

Thanks for the heads up on the other decouplers, I thought it was kind of weird that the ones they were selling were bright yellow, I will go with one of the black sets.

I will go with inline then, that makes sense.

Thanks!


----------



## g0barry

Found the internal USB hub on their site, HUBBY7 internal USB 2.0 Hub. Looks like that would work great.


----------



## saintruski

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *g0barry*
> 
> Found the internal USB hub on their site, HUBBY7 internal USB 2.0 Hub. Looks like that would work great.


This looks like it would be great for my board...mine comes with a whopping 2 internal connectors...


----------



## Ashcroft

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *g0barry*
> 
> Thanks for the feedback.
> 
> I was thinking about the clock module mainly for the extra aquabus interface it provides, so will probably drop it.
> 
> Is there a reason to use the aquabus interface on the components like pumps and flow meters that have USB instead of using USB? Do people use a small usb hub to run everything to their mobo? I am planning on reading the aquaero manual this weekend to get more familiar with it.
> 
> Thanks for the heads up on the other decouplers, I thought it was kind of weird that the ones they were selling were bright yellow, I will go with one of the black sets.
> 
> I will go with inline then, that makes sense.
> 
> Thanks!


I prefer to use the USB connections for pumps and flow meters only very temporarily during the initial setup of the system. Once the flow meter and pumps are set up then the Aquabus is all you need for full functionality. Just relying on usb will not allow auto control of the pumps for example.

All you really need is a single usb port and if necessary you can configure each device one at a time swapping the connections.

The modmytoys pwm splitter boards are good for providing a central Aquabus hub or Aquacomp have their own too.it makes for neat wiring and easy changes.


----------



## InfoSeeker

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *g0barry*
> 
> Thanks for the feedback.
> 
> I was thinking about the clock module mainly for the extra aquabus interface it provides, so will probably drop it.
> 
> Is there a reason to use the aquabus interface on the components like pumps and flow meters that have USB instead of using USB? Do people use a small usb hub to run everything to their mobo? I am planning on reading the aquaero manual this weekend to get more familiar with it.
> 
> Thanks for the heads up on the other decouplers, I thought it was kind of weird that the ones they were selling were bright yellow, I will go with one of the black sets.
> 
> I will go with inline then, that makes sense.
> 
> Thanks!


It is cheaper to use Y-splitters for multiple aquabus connections. Four MPS devices may be used simultaneously on the aquaero, in your case two D5-USB pumps and two flow sensors, Get three of the aquabus Y-connector 4 pins, and you will be good to go.

EDIT: as Ashcroft mentioned, the Splitty9 is even better than the aquabus Y-connector 4 pins when multiple aquabus connections are used. Be sure to use the 4-pin aquabus cable (15 CM or 70 CM) between the aquaero & splitty9, not the 3-pin version.

The USB connection is used to configure the devices, and allows manual control.
The aquabus connection allows for integration into the aquaero, and allows automatic control using response curves.
The primary reason for not keeping both is cable management... less cables to route/hide. I generally keep both, many don't.

I did a little comparison between two popular USB hubs here.


----------



## g0barry

Thanks guys. I checked out the link you posted, looks like the nzxt one had better specs all around, I will see if I can find it for sale.

The splitty9 looks like a great idea, I am glad I asked, thanks.

I did notice a suggestion infoseeker made to someone else in the page he linked,using the delta between ambient temperature and water temperature as the way to create the curve for fans and pumps or just fans. I thought that sounds like a pretty smart way to set it up.

Since I will already be using the maximum of 4 aquabus devices between my pumps and flow sensors, is there a way I can support the inline temperature monitors as well as an external temperature monitor?


----------



## Master Chicken

What does MPS stand for again? And there are only 4 Aquabus device ID's reserved for them?


----------



## InfoSeeker

@g0barry:

The NZXT USB Hub can be found at Superbiiz for $19.99 & free shipping.

Yes, control the fans with the delta T curve, and leave the pumps alone once you have them set to their sweet spot (flow & noise)

The temperature sensors are not aquabus devices... you have 8 temp inputs available on the aquaero..


----------



## InfoSeeker

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Master Chicken*
> 
> What does MPS stand for again? And there are only 4 Aquabus device ID's reserved for them?


MPS defined.

And yes, four MPS IDs available on aquabus. A table of all aquabus addresses can be found in section "23.1. Compatible aquabus devices" in the aquaero manual.


----------



## g0barry

Great, I will read the manual before I ask anymore questions. I think I almost have a full list of what I need. Thanks


----------



## s74r1

Anyone know if AQ might be making a mobile app in the future for Aquasuite? Would be nice, though probably would need a bluetooth module, or send data over USB. Even something as basic as the NZXT CAM style apps would be neat, particularly for those of us that dock our mobile phones on keyboard or near it. I'm having a hard time finding a location to mount my Aquaero 6, though I noticed it may be possible to separate the LCD panel and use a ribbon cable to have the LCD-only externally or in other tight areas.


----------



## InfoSeeker

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *s74r1*
> 
> Anyone know if AQ might be making a mobile app in the future for Aquasuite? Would be nice, though probably would need a bluetooth module, or send data over USB. Even something as basic as the NZXT CAM style apps would be neat, particularly for those of us that dock our mobile phones on keyboard or near it. I'm having a hard time finding a location to mount my Aquaero 6, though I noticed it may be possible to separate the LCD panel and use a ribbon cable to have the LCD-only externally or in other tight areas.


You may want to look at AIDA64.
They have been doing a lot of work integrating with external displays, and they can read much of the aquaero's data using Windows Services.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *s74r1*
> 
> Anyone know if AQ might be making a mobile app in the future for Aquasuite? Would be nice, though probably would need a bluetooth module, or send data over USB. Even something as basic as the NZXT CAM style apps would be neat, particularly for those of us that dock our mobile phones on keyboard or near it. I'm having a hard time finding a location to mount my Aquaero 6, though I noticed it may be possible to separate the LCD panel and use a ribbon cable to have the LCD-only externally or in other tight areas.


Very long story short ribbon cables won't work. Shoogy has stated in the pay, due to interference iirc


----------



## Shoggy

About the mobile thing...


----------



## jsutter71

I understand the greenish color scheme because of the name of the company being Aqua computer, but it would be it would be nice if we could customize the look of the software. Colors and fonts would be nice.


----------



## jsutter71

I have a question pertaining to my Flow 400 and also my overview page. First the Flow 400. Is their a way to save my configuration settings so I don't have to adjust the sensor configuration every time I log on. I would have thought that clicking on the drive icon would be able to do that. Secondly with the overview page. Why is it that sometimes the software will be spot on, and display the information that I have set up on my desktop when I boot up, and other times not at all. I know my settings are correct because It does work some times. And also since I am using three monitors is their a way to tell the software which monitor to use for displaying information in desktop mode. I would rather it not be my primary monitor.


----------



## Tlow

Hello,

has someone used this sensor with the aquaero 6 already?

http://www.alphacool.com/detail/index/sArticle/21457

I am wondering if it is compatible.
Thanks.


----------



## jsutter71

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thiloke*
> 
> Hello,
> 
> has someone used this sensor with the aquaero 6 already?
> 
> http://www.alphacool.com/detail/index/sArticle/21457
> 
> I am wondering if it is compatible.
> Thanks.


I have used about half a dozen different sensors from different makers and have yet to find one that is incompatible. My biggest issue with almost every external sensor that I have used is their inconsistent ability to measure proper temperature. Even with 2 sensors from the exact same company being side by side I have found a wide degree of inaccuracy. For that reason I have removed every external sensor from my loop and rely solely on the internal sensors for my CPU and GPU's.


----------



## MrStrat007

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jsutter71*
> 
> I have used about half a dozen different sensors from different makers and have yet to find one that is incompatible. My biggest issue with almost every external sensor that I have used is their inconsistent ability to measure proper temperature. Even with 2 sensors from the exact same company being side by side I have found a wide degree of inaccuracy. For that reason I have removed every external sensor from my loop and rely solely on the internal sensors for my CPU and GPU's.


The degree of accuracy is less relevant than their response to actual change. It doesn't matter so much if it reads your air trmparature as 40C at idle and 50C at load because everything is relative - you set up your system based on the change from a 'base value of your choosing. Relying on internal temperatures means they' vary much faster, ramping your fans up and down far more often and not really giving you effective control over the system in the way that you probably designed it.

Absolute accuracy is not necessary so long as they're "close enough" and respond as designed to changes in temperature.


----------



## InfoSeeker

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jsutter71*
> 
> I understand the greenish color scheme because of the name of the company being Aqua computer, but it would be it would be nice if we could customize the look of the software. Colors and fonts would be nice.


When you build a display page you have full control over color, fonts, background shapes, gradient backgrounds, etc.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jsutter71*
> 
> I have a question pertaining to my Flow 400 and also my overview page. First the Flow 400. Is their a way to save my configuration settings so I don't have to adjust the sensor configuration every time I log on. I would have thought that clicking on the drive icon would be able to do that. Secondly with the overview page. Why is it that sometimes the software will be spot on, and display the information that I have set up on my desktop when I boot up, and other times not at all. I know my settings are correct because It does work some times. And also since I am using three monitors is their a way to tell the software which monitor to use for displaying information in desktop mode. I would rather it not be my primary monitor.


Flow 400 - by clicking on the drive icon you are saving the settings to the device. If you open the sensor configuration page again, it loads the default settings, not the devices current settings. No need to enter the configuration screen after initial configuration, unless you want to modify the device settings.

Display page displayed - could you link a couple screen shots of the display page correctly and incorrectly displayed?

Display page placement - aquasuite considers all three monitors as one desktop. I don't know if you have under/over or left/right or combo, but place things and see where they go when shown on the desktop.


----------



## Master Chicken

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jsutter71*
> 
> I have used about half a dozen different sensors from different makers and have yet to find one that is incompatible. My biggest issue with almost every external sensor that I have used is their inconsistent ability to measure proper temperature. Even with 2 sensors from the exact same company being side by side I have found a wide degree of inaccuracy. For that reason I have removed every external sensor from my loop and rely solely on the internal sensors for my CPU and GPU's.


It seems like all of the sensors sold in this market are at least standardized around a 10K ohm NTC element. But none of the sensors seem to provide the Beta (B25/85 or B25/100, etc) of the elements they use. Without that information, you have to do a manual calibration. I suspect the Aquaero just uses a linear approximation once you provide two measurement points within the normal operating range.

So yes, useless until calibrated.

A 10k NTC is expected to have a 10k ohm resistance at 25 degC which then drops as the sensor gets warmer ... hence the NTC or negative temperature coefficient.


----------



## InfoSeeker

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thiloke*
> 
> Hello,
> 
> has someone used this sensor with the aquaero 6 already?
> 
> http://www.alphacool.com/detail/index/sArticle/21457
> 
> I am wondering if it is compatible.
> Thanks.


I haven't used this particular sensor, but from the product page you linked...
Quote:


> Scope of Delivery:
> 
> 1x Alphacool Eiszapfen temperature sensor plug G1/4 - deep black
> This is a 10 kOhm temperature sensor which is compatible with, among others, the following devices:
> 
> Aquaero 3.07, aquaero 4.00
> Aquastream XT Ultra
> Aquaduct variants with external sensor input (360 XT, 720 XT)
> Alphacool Heatmaster
> Innovatek Fan-O-Matic
> Lian Li Multipanel
> Scythe Kaze
> T-Balancer
> Sensor input on many motherboards


So. yea, it will work with the aquaero 6.


----------



## GTXJackBauer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jsutter71*
> 
> And also since I am using three monitors is their a way to tell the software which monitor to use for displaying information in desktop mode. I would rather it not be my primary monitor.


I use a 3rd party software that specializes in multi-screen configurations called DisplayFusion Pro that places certain things on certain screens. Of course you'll have to program it to do so under their Settings --> Window's Management tab.

Here's an example. As you can see, when the system comes on, I have the windows exactly where I want to them to be without moving them. Only issue I have is, I have to manually open the tabs up as I had them before.


----------



## jsutter71

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *InfoSeeker*
> 
> When you build a display page you have full control over color, fonts, background shapes, gradient backgrounds, etc.


I was referring to the Aquaero software itself regarding colors and font.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *InfoSeeker*
> 
> flow 400 - by clicking on the drive icon you are saving the settings to the device. If you open the sensor configuration page again, it loads the default settings, not the devices current settings. No need to enter the configuration screen after initial configuration, unless you want to modify the device settings.


Understood. Wish we could change that feature though
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *InfoSeeker*
> 
> Display page displayed - could you link a couple screen shots of the display page correctly and incorrectly displayed?


Next time I log on I'll see what I can do but it's been very hit or miss.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *InfoSeeker*
> 
> Display page placement - aquasuite considers all three monitors as one desktop. I don't know if you have under/over or left/right or combo, but place things and see where they go when shown on the desktop.


My primary monitor is in the middle and my other 2 are side by side.


----------



## jsutter71

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GTXJackBauer*
> 
> I use a 3rd party software that specializes in multi-screen configurations called DisplayFusion Pro that places certain things on certain screens. Of course you'll have to program it to do so under their Settings --> Window's Management tab.


Wouldn't it be nice if Nvidia or AMD depending on your GPU could make the drivers more accommodating so we would not have to rely on 3rd party software to control those settings. I mean good greaf. Almost every video card on the market is made to handle multiple monitors so make better drivers to support the hardware features.


----------



## jsutter71

Here are those screen shots. As you can see in the pic nothing is showing in the screen as indicated.


----------



## InfoSeeker

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jsutter71*
> 
> Here are those screen shots. As you can see in the pic nothing is showing in the screen as indicated.
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Are all three screenshots above of your primary monitor?

top shows aquasuite open in full window mode?
middle is the desktop with the display page locked and set to desktop, with aquasuite minimized?
bottom is aquasuite full window with the display page unlocked and set to desktop?
Do all three screen have the same pixel resolution?
Your primary monitor is the center monitor?
Lastly, what shows on the left screen @ upper left, when the display page is locked and set to desktop? (like middle screenshot above)


----------



## jsutter71

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *InfoSeeker*
> 
> Are all three screenshots above of your primary monitor?
> 
> top shows aquasuite open in full window mode?
> middle is the desktop with the display page locked and set to desktop, with aquasuite minimized?
> bottom is aquasuite full window with the display page unlocked and set to desktop?
> Do all three screen have the same pixel resolution?
> Your primary monitor is the center monitor?
> Lastly, what shows on the left screen @ upper left, when the display page is locked and set to desktop? (like middle screenshot above)


Not all my monitors are the same resolution. The aquasuite photo with the desktop unlocked is what should be displayed. The blank photo of the wallpaper is what I see when the monitor is locked and Aquasuite is minimized. And the other photo of Aquasuite with the lock engaged is what I see on the blank page when I maximize aquasuite.


----------



## InfoSeeker

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jsutter71*
> 
> Not all my monitors are the same resolution. The aquasuite photo with the desktop unlocked is what should be displayed. The blank photo of the wallpaper is what I see when the monitor is locked and Aquasuite is minimized. And the other photo of Aquasuite with the lock engaged is what I see on the blank page when I maximize aquasuite.


Let's try this... with the display page unlocked, drag the 8 objects you have in the upper left, downward so they are in the blue of the sky of your desktop. I believe you may have them displayed above the desktop.


----------



## jsutter71

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *InfoSeeker*
> 
> Let's try this... with the display page unlocked, drag the 8 objects you have in the upper left, downward so they are in the blue of the sky of your desktop. I believe you may have them displayed above the desktop.


I have actually tried that and one of the times that it did show up after rebooting the tabs were in the middle part of the screen. I think the problem lies more with the GPU drivers not properly interfacing with Aquasuite. Otherwise it would either work all the time are non of the time.


----------



## InfoSeeker

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jsutter71*
> 
> I have actually tried that and one of the times that it did show up after rebooting the tabs were in the middle part of the screen. I think the problem lies more with the GPU drivers not properly interfacing with Aquasuite. Otherwise it would either work all the time are non of the time.


That is always a possibility, but I am not sure you are aware of how the aquasuite views your desktop.

If you would provide the resolutions of your three screens, and their relationship to the Primary screen, I would get a better picture.
Also, when giving their resolutions make it horizontal first and vertical second, even for portrait displays.
i.e. if you have a 1600 x 1200 monitor in portrait mode, list it as 1200 x 1600.


----------



## jsutter71

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *InfoSeeker*
> 
> That is always a possibility, but I am not sure you are aware of how the aquasuite views your desktop.
> 
> If you would provide the resolutions of your three screens, and their relationship to the Primary screen, I would get a better picture.
> Also, when giving their resolutions make it horizontal first and vertical second, even for portrait displays.
> i.e. if you have a 1600 x 1200 monitor in portrait mode, list it as 1200 x 1600.


My primary display is 4096X2160 and my other 2 are 2560X1440. I just don't know why the problem would be intermittent. My guess is that it could have something to do with how the drivers communicate with the software.


----------



## jsutter71

Ok I figured it out. On a whim a changed the main display from native 4K to 3840X2160 and sure enough. So the issue is related to the software not wanting to support native 4K resolution. Now that I know I will submit a trouble ticket.


----------



## InfoSeeker

Is that the backside of Half Dome?


----------



## jsutter71

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *InfoSeeker*
> 
> Is that the backside of Half Dome?


Good call.







Native Texan but lived in Nor Cal for about 7 years. I can't take credit for the pic though. Using the Win 10 Yosemite theme.


----------



## MocoIMO

Hello everyone. I've had my aquaero for about 6-7 months and today it won't start up my fans or LED's... I've tried directly connecting my fans and lights with no luck. I still get my flow meter & temp readout's but can't control anything ...

Anyone have this issue before?


----------



## jsutter71

I just realized a way to choose monitors for the overview pages. Kind of a dumb mistake on my part. On the bottom of the screen using the slider it will scroll through all of the attached monitors. I was able to scroll over to my non 4K monitor and place the pages I wanted on that one. The placement is off in the software so it took a while to position where I wanted it.


----------



## RDKing2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Master Chicken*
> 
> It seems like all of the sensors sold in this market are at least standardized around a 10K ohm NTC element. But none of the sensors seem to provide the Beta (B25/85 or B25/100, etc) of the elements they use. Without that information, you have to do a manual calibration. I suspect the Aquaero just uses a linear approximation once you provide two measurement points within the normal operating range.
> 
> So yes, useless until calibrated.
> 
> A 10k NTC is expected to have a 10k ohm resistance at 25 degC which then drops as the sensor gets warmer ... hence the NTC or negative temperature coefficient.


There was a post sometime back from the AC rep saying not to calibrate sensors. IIRC the Aquaero uses a curve when reading/using temperatures. Agree with a previous post that the exact temp does not matter. I use the differential between ambient air and water.

Post #8732 be careful what you use to calibrate and how you do it.


----------



## DirtyBear

Owner of an aquaero 6 xt here Can I join ??
I got tones of problem with aquaero


----------



## DirtyBear

Can I Join ??


----------



## InfoSeeker

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DirtyBear*
> 
> Can I Join ??


You're in







IT Diva will enter your name on the roster when she has a chance.

One thing I can see from your picture is that you ordered Bitspower bits direct from Bitspower.


----------



## DirtyBear

yes direct from Taiwan


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *InfoSeeker*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *DirtyBear*
> 
> Can I Join ??
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You're in
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> IT Diva will enter your name on the roster when she has a chance.
> 
> One thing I can see from your picture is that you ordered Bitspower bits direct from Bitspower.
Click to expand...

Stupid OCN isn't giving me access to edit the first post.

As soon as they get it fixed, I'll add everyone who's been left off.

Darlene


----------



## Ironsmack

I just saw the new line up for the VISION system.

I'm actually excited to incorporate one of the OLED display in my rig.


----------



## jsutter71

New version of Aqua Suite has been posted Version 2017-1


----------



## ForNever

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jsutter71*
> 
> New version of Aqua Suite has been posted Version 2017-1


Thanks for the head's up! 2 years going with mine, still absolutely amazed with it.


----------



## outofmyheadyo

Where do you guys place your water temperature sensors ? I have the aquaero and I thought just out of curiosity I want to add 2x temp sensors, perhaps 1 to the inlet and 1 to the outlet of my rad, but I dont know wich rad to go for, I know alphacool UT60 560 would surely fit the sensors, but the HWL nemesis GTS 560, not so much.


----------



## JasonMorris

You now have to pay for Aquasuite licence? That's a cheek.


----------



## ForNever

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *outofmyheadyo*
> 
> Where do you guys place your water temperature sensors ? I have the aquaero and I thought just out of curiosity I want to add 2x temp sensors, perhaps 1 to the inlet and 1 to the outlet of my rad, but I dont know wich rad to go for, I know alphacool UT60 560 would surely fit the sensors, but the HWL nemesis GTS 560, not so much.


I regulate fans based on Rad temp (coolant temps). So I've got one sensor on the bottom of each rad housing just under the inlet. I have others, but I have a weird setup with peltiers, so not really relevant.

I gotta ask, where do you keep that monster GTS 560?? Jealous.

I've never seen that case before. Very nice.


----------



## Kimir

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jsutter71*
> 
> New version of Aqua Suite has been posted Version 2017-1


Did you successfully updated yet?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JasonMorris*
> 
> You now have to pay for Aquasuite licence? That's a cheek.


How so? I suppose you need your aqua computer device plugged in USB to be detected at the install so there is no license to put in.

I get an error when running the newest aquasuite executable, it does tell me that my aquaero is connected and shows the serial number, but says connection to Aqua Computer server failed.
I'm still running the 2014 - 1.3 version here still, as the newer one that was released after that update the firmware on the aquaero, and I didn't wanted to redo my settings at the time. I suppose I'll have to anyway when updating to whatever new version so I saved screenshot of everything.
Oh well, it doesn't work today, will try another time.


----------



## Shoggy

Detailed information about the licensing in English will follow. So far I did a rough overview with the most important stuff to know:


----------



## Cozmo85

Seriously? I spend $161.50 for your fan controller and don't even get software updates for a year?


----------



## GTXJackBauer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cozmo85*
> 
> Seriously? I spend $161.50 for your fan controller and don't even get software updates for a year?


I've spent probably close to 3 times that amount and I'm very disappointed with these announcements. Mind you I originally went through hell getting a quality AQ 6 XT from a retailer (PPCS) who then made me pay RMA shipping for what looked like a used, bent out of shape product. My touchscreen after 3 RMAs with AC, still doesn't fully function properly. Now I have to pay for software.


----------



## Cozmo85

Yea, I also have an aquaero d5. And I understand eventually charging for software but I would expect it to be the 2018 version that wont be free for existing owners.


----------



## cram501

I don't have a problem paying for updated features in Aquasuite for an nominal fee... assuming it becomes stable. There are a number of bugs with the software that are irritating (missing graph data, hangs, and crashes). I can work around them but I'm less patient if I pay for the software (after I've already payed for the hardware). Since I don't have to pay for 2017, I'll keep an eye out on the new version to see if it is more stable.

Just installed the new version and if I click on System in the menu item Aquasuite at the bottom, it crashes. So right now I can't get to t he global settings.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> Detailed information about the licensing in English will follow. So far I did a rough overview with the most important stuff to know:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


ok, one foggy thing so your licenses transfer products correct ?
( using imaginary ideas )
{ question one }
IE one of divas builds. has 5 xts she buys a 6th. - when she downloads 2018 or 2019, does that license now work for the other 5 ?

or lets say people have the d5 usb- does the license transfer from a new 6xt to 2018?

or is the license per product {end question one}
{ question Two }
if we "make" a 6 lt from a 6xt do we still get the free upgrades- ( i guess i am asking is the license linked to the SN or are you using a username / password )
{end question two }
{question 3}
is the license one time use ( IE ONE PC- with pc meaning by the mobo like OEM windows ? )
or just one pc can use it at a time.
or is a license a "household" license that can be used on many pcs
{ end question 3 }
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cram501*
> 
> I don't have a problem paying for updated features in Aquasuite for an nominal fee... assuming it becomes stable. There are a number of bugs with the software that are irritating (missing graph data, hangs, and crashes). I can work around them but I'm less patient if I pay for the software (after I've already payed for the hardware). Since I don't have to pay for 2017, I'll keep an eye out on the new version to see if it is more stable.
> 
> Just installed the new version and if I click on System in the menu item Aquasuite at the bottom, it crashes. So right now I can't get to t he global settings.


it stinks but i can 100% understand it.

we are asking more and more of them. now it is going to be like aida

they are doing far more then ever, mobile -

web views w.e. you want to call it
6 lt
seems to me far more to come

with added support and added features - are added costs.

with added costs someone has to pay, if you think that a cost in a product is not passed on to the consumer, then you are wrong.

contrary to manys beliefs business do nothing for free. you pay for your warranty, you pay for your customer service, you pay for product theft, weather or not that theft was a " lost sale " ( ie they would not of bought the product they stole )

company are for profit, they should be, and without for profit, we would not have the advancements we have.

for me this is a welcome addition, but now as it is a paid service, even to those without paying ( the included licenses.) there is a far higher standard. the problems need to be fixed, lets hope this happens.


----------



## Shoggy

To those not understating why we had to go this route:

The problem with the free software so far is that many of the older customers receive free updates and support since almost six years now without purchasing anything new - and it would have been several more years for many of them if we would have not made that cut. The development costs a lot of time and money. With more and more features also more and more questions arrive at the support. We can not keep that "everything for free" thing alive for an eternity









I want to remind everyone complaining about the licensing model that there have been some other devices like the aquaero in the past and almost all of them failed since their software support was close to non-existent... There have been devices that never saw a single update even though there were bugs in the software right from the start. So I think paying about 62 Cent per month in the 2-year license model will not really hurt when you can be assured that your Aqua Computer devices will still work correctly in the far away future and will likely have many new additional features too that were not available when you purchased the device.

There is also no need to continuously extend your license. You could also pause for a while and buy a new license later when there are new features available that your currently licensed version does not support but that you want to use.

I can list tons of expensive devices in our company made by multi-million dollar companies that did not even provide drivers from one Windows version to the next one. Or to stick with a more common problem that many of us know: paying a few hundred bucks for an Android smart phone and no further support after just a couple of months. Strangely nobody complains about stuff like that









Since the topic bugs have been mentioned. Just a general note: we can only fix bugs that have been reported. Nobody should expect that a bug will be fixed in a future version by sitting around an waiting. That your installation shows a bug does not automatically mean that all others have that bug too - and even in this case it would still require at least one hero to report it







So if you encounter problems, than report them to our support! Include detailed information and screenshots or even a video if it makes sense. We already had customers with really weird problems that nobody else ever reported nor that we were able to reproduce and we still tried our best to help.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> { question one }
> IE one of divas builds. has 5 xts she buys a 6th. - when she downloads 2018 or 2019, does that license now work for the other 5 ?
> 
> or lets say people have the d5 usb- does the license transfer from a new 6xt to 2018?
> 
> or is the license per product {end question one}
> { question Two }
> if we "make" a 6 lt from a 6xt do we still get the free upgrades- ( i guess i am asking is the license linked to the SN or are you using a username / password )
> {end question two }
> {question 3}
> is the license one time use ( IE ONE PC- with pc meaning by the mobo like OEM windows ? )
> or just one pc can use it at a time.
> or is a license a "household" license that can be used on many pcs
> { end question 3 }


Your license is for the software, not for the hardware. So as soon as you connect a device that has a liecense for a current aquasuite version, it also allows you to use all other compatible devices with this version. So in your Diva example, she would be able to use all her aquaeros till aquasuite 2019 as long as the newest device is still part of the system. If she removes this one the software can be still used like before BUT as soon as she updates the software or connects a new device (that has no current license) the software can not be used anymore. Of course she can still access the version(s) that the other five aquaeros are entitled for. Right now this would be at the aquasuite 2017 for her (since she already has XT devices).

The licensing system can not tell if your aquaero LT was born as a XT. To make sure to get the aquasuite 2017 license for such a device you must connect the display again *before* you run the downloader! If you run the download while the device is an LT, it will be registered with its serial number as an LT and this version is maybe not entitled for the aquasuite 2017 if it has a total runtime of more than 90 days. When you successfully register a license for this device, you can remove the display again since the license is bound to the serial number of the device and that one will not change if the display is removed.

As mentioned the license is bound to the serial number which means the device itself is your key that decides which versions you can use. So you can move that device from one PC to another without any problems. If you sell this device to someone else he will also get the license with it. This is something to keep in mind if you purchase a license. If you have several devices you must select one that will be registered for the new license. You should choose a device where you know that you will not sell it anytime soon. Just in case you sell it anyway and no other device is entitled for the current version too, than we are back at the situation with the Diva example.

With clearer words: you only need a single device with a valid license for the latest software to be able to use all other compatible devices too (no matter how old they are). So in the end one with currently no valid license for 2017 should also consider if it might make more sense to purchase a VISION for example which already comes with a 2-year license and serves for all other products rather than just purchasing the naked license. So upgrading the license by purchasing small gadgets for example is definitely the better deal.

And just again to be sure that everyone got it: every device will get at least the aquasuite 2016-5 that can be installed as many times you want and can be also used as long as you want. The same is true for all later versions if you do not extend the license. You will never run into a case were you can not use a device because it will always have a license for a specific aquasuite version.


----------



## cram501

@Shoggy

I don't mind paying for new versions with new features. Overall, I think its a good idea. There are issues with the software that need to be fixed prior to people paying for it. When it was a free add on, over looking some of the issues was easier.

For example, when I installed the new 2017 software:


Only detected, for licensing purposes, those devices connected via USB. I have have 2 pumps only connected by aquabus currently that were not detected. It is your own protocol, Aqausuite should be able to detect them. If it can't, it may be time to give up/remove that protocol.
When I installed the new version, I could no longer get to the gobal settings. Aquasuite would crash with an unhandled exception (all exceptions should be handled regardless of the severity of the issue).
I had to completely wipe all of my saved data, settings, and charts to get to global settings. When I got to global settings, I reset the flow to be gallons/minute. Aquasuite now ignores those settings and still uses liter/hr. I need to test the reset on a reboot.
I had 2017 running overnight. When I looked at my computer this morning, all charts had no data. This has been an issue for a couple of years. The chart may come back but in many cases it stays and the chart needs to be re-created. This happens to me a few times a month and can be irritating.

I've been running the software for a day and have run into obvious issues. These need to be fixed if I have to pay for the software in the future.

Aquasuite is a nice piece of software when it is working. If you can polish the system and raise the quality, it would be worth it even if you didn't have the hardware.


----------



## Mega Man

Thanks shoggy!

As to the above poster I never had that issue on any of the above. Unfortunately with this equip it is usually ebkac and not with the equip, but it is possible it is the equip or other issues, the above statement is just my experience esp in this forum


----------



## cram501

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> Thanks shoggy!
> 
> As to the above poster I never had that issue on any of the above. Unfortunately with this equip it is usually ebkac and not with the equip, but it is possible it is the equip or other issues, the above statement is just my experience esp in this forum


Although I am never without fault (I FUBAR things often), I believe it may be the features you choose to use. Most of the issues I have center around the graphing of simple data. I graph an 8 hour period for cpu temp, gpu temp, flow rate, water temp, ambient temp, and delta T. I can display point data on all of that fine but the graphing is inconsistent. When there is an error, aquasuite doesn't give any feed back. It crashes, doesn't show the data, or just doesn't show the custom control. If it doesn't show the data, I can usually recreate the chart and all is fine. If it doesn't' show the custom control, I have to either edit the file manually to remove it or recreate the complete page.

I'm glad you have had no issues but I'm not sure how a working chart, that suddenly stops working after a day or a month, can be my fault but I'm open to suggestions.

Some of the issues I found on the first day the software was installed centered around an upgrade from 2016-4 to 2017-1. I had to completely uninstall the software and delete all of the charts and data to access global settings.

For me it is still free so I'll work around it. If they start charging for it, above and beyond the cost of the hardware, the software has be more stable.


----------



## Cozmo85

I understand 6 years but some of us are less than a year.


----------



## BelowAverageIQ

I purchased my AQ6 XT in June. Update to 2017-1, it was covered, yet my Farbwerk I purchased in September was not......... I applied the latest firmware for both.

I purchased a new licence anyway, 2018, but it only applies to ONE item!!! You either apply it to the AQ6 XT or the Farbwerk.

The only reason they were listed, as others mentioned, was because they are connected via USB. My pump and USB Flow sensor are connected via Aquabus. (Yes I know I purchased the wrong flow sensor).

I dont mind buying a software licence. But is should apply to my whole system, not just one piece.


----------



## GTXJackBauer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BelowAverageIQ*
> 
> I purchased my AQ6 XT in June. Update to 2017-1, it was covered, yet my Farbwerk I purchased in September was not......... I applied the latest firmware for both.
> 
> I purchased a new licence anyway, 2018, but it only applies to ONE item!!! You either apply it to the AQ6 XT or the Farbwerk.
> 
> The only reason they were listed, as others mentioned, was because they are connected via USB. My pump and USB Flow sensor are connected via Aquabus. (Yes I know I purchased the wrong flow sensor).
> 
> I dont mind buying a software licence. But is should apply to my whole system, not just one piece.


That makes me wonder. If the AQ gets the latest license/software/firmware with all the new features, does that apply to the rest of the eco-system or does each component need's its own licensing?

Say for example, if you applied the 2018 license to the Farbwerk, would the AQ be subjected to that licensing?

Too many questions and rightfully so. This will be uber ridiculous if you have to purchase licensing for almost every piece.


----------



## Ashcroft

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GTXJackBauer*
> 
> That makes me wonder. If the AQ gets the latest license/software/firmware with all the new features, does that apply to the rest of the eco-system or does each component need's its own licensing?
> 
> Say for example, if you applied the 2018 license to the Farbwerk, would the AQ be subjected to that licensing?
> 
> Too many questions and rightfully so. This will be uber ridiculous if you have to purchase licensing for almost every piece.


The Software will of course work with all devices you have connected. Only a single piece of hardware with a licence is required

The licence is connected to the serial number of the device you select. If you sell that device the licence goes with it and you would need another device with a licence. I assume the licenced device must also be connected with USB permanently so that is something to consider too.

For the example above if you apply the licence to the fabwerk then the software will work with all devices whileever the fabwerk is connected. Take the Fabwerk away and the licence goes too.

Choosing a device that is not likely to be sold or removed from the system is an important consideration.


----------



## NE0XY

Sorry to break from the discussion about the licensing, and sorry if this question has been answered before.
I have the aquaero 6 XT and I wonder if anyone knows if there are any RGB PWM fans that would work with it?
Thank you


----------



## Daggi

I think I made a huge mistake upgrading from aquasuite 2016-4 to 2016-5, upgraded the firmware and now liter per minute won't work only liter per hour. Tried to go back to 2016-4 but it doesen't work since i upgraded the firmware on my AQ6. Is it possible to downgrade the firmware or do i have to live with the 16-5 version?


----------



## Trestles126

Gear question

I have a a6 xt just added a pedestal to my s8 so my fan count is gonna go up here is what I will have and was curious if a poweradjust would be a good idea to power the top half of case

Top main case

6 gentle typhoons and 1 140 noctua exhaust

Pedestal 8 gentle typhoons

And 1 fan bay will power darkside leds

While I'm here I'm running a dual looo with 2 d5 ek pwm pumps. I am aware the A6 will not control these without the mod. What r my other options? Connect the pumps to my asus formula v11 mobo? Or don't connect at all. If I just power with molex they will run 100percent correct? I'd rather just set both to 50 and call it good.


----------



## cram501

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Daggi*
> 
> I think I made a huge mistake upgrading from aquasuite 2016-4 to 2016-5, upgraded the firmware and now liter per minute won't work only liter per hour. Tried to go back to 2016-4 but it doesen't work since i upgraded the firmware on my AQ6. Is it possible to downgrade the firmware or do i have to live with the 16-5 version?


I have the same problem. The conversion from Liters -> Gallons or C -> F doesn't work.

I also create charts. Attempting to put more than one on a page causes a crash in the software. The charts work in the "Analyze Data" screen.


----------



## Daggi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cram501*
> 
> I have the same problem. The conversion from Liters -> Gallons or C -> F doesn't work.
> 
> I also create charts. Attempting to put more than one on a page causes a crash in the software. The charts work in the "Analyze Data" screen.


I tried to uninstall and install everything again, but nothing helps.

I hope there is a way to downgrade the firmware, because I had no trouble with Aquasuite 2016-4. And I don't want to pay for a license


----------



## cram501

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Daggi*
> 
> I tried to uninstall and install everything again, but nothing helps.
> 
> I hope there is a way to downgrade the firmware, because I had no trouble with Aquasuite 2016-4. And I don't want to pay for a license


I couldn't get to the global settings at all until I uninstalled all versions, removed all data, and removed all pages. Hopefully they will get a fix in soon.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BelowAverageIQ*
> 
> I purchased my AQ6 XT in June. Update to 2017-1, it was covered, yet my Farbwerk I purchased in September was not......... I applied the latest firmware for both.
> 
> I purchased a new licence anyway, 2018, but it only applies to ONE item!!! You either apply it to the AQ6 XT or the Farbwerk.
> 
> The only reason they were listed, as others mentioned, was because they are connected via USB. My pump and USB Flow sensor are connected via Aquabus. (Yes I know I purchased the wrong flow sensor).
> 
> I dont mind buying a software licence. But is should apply to my whole system, not just one piece.


It does shoggy said.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NE0XY*
> 
> Sorry to break from the discussion about the licensing, and sorry if this question has been answered before.
> I have the aquaero 6 XT and I wonder if anyone knows if there are any RGB PWM fans that would work with it?
> Thank you


From what little I know about rgb fans they use the addressable rgbs,
And no they are not usable with aquaero
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Daggi*
> 
> I think I made a huge mistake upgrading from aquasuite 2016-4 to 2016-5, upgraded the firmware and now liter per minute won't work only liter per hour. Tried to go back to 2016-4 but it doesen't work since i upgraded the firmware on my AQ6. Is it possible to downgrade the firmware or do i have to live with the 16-5 version?


AFAIK no toy can not downgrade, but I never trey so I could be mistaken


----------



## InfoSeeker

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Daggi*
> 
> I think I made a huge mistake upgrading from aquasuite 2016-4 to 2016-5, upgraded the firmware and now liter per minute won't work only liter per hour. Tried to go back to 2016-4 but it doesen't work since i upgraded the firmware on my AQ6. Is it possible to downgrade the firmware or do i have to live with the 16-5 version?


As Mega said, I don't think you can undo a firmware update.
But it is not all despair... I am sure you will see several patches over the near term as this and other bugs get squished.


----------



## apw63

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Trestles126*
> 
> Gear question
> 
> I have a a6 xt just added a pedestal to my s8 so my fan count is gonna go up here is what I will have and was curious if a poweradjust would be a good idea to power the top half of case
> 
> Top main case
> 
> 6 gentle typhoons and 1 140 noctua exhaust
> 
> Pedestal 8 gentle typhoons
> 
> And 1 fan bay will power darkside leds
> 
> While I'm here I'm running a dual looo with 2 d5 ek pwm pumps. I am aware the A6 will not control these without the mod. What r my other options? Connect the pumps to my asus formula v11 mobo? Or don't connect at all. If I just power with molex they will run 100percent correct? I'd rather just set both to 50 and call it good.


I have the same case with the pedestal. I run 8 RAD fans on 1st channel 6 in ped and 2 in main case. On 2nd channel I run 3 exhaust fans for the ped. .3rd channel is 4 exhaust fans for main case the last channel is my 2 35x pumps. I do not have any temp or power issues on any of the channels with the configuration. You should be able to run a similar configuration.If your not controlling your pump speed you should be able to run them off one channel. You could set and forget. Look at how much 2 D5s will pull total (startup and steady state)


----------



## Revan654

I hate subscription base software. It's one reason I refuse to use some of Adobe software.

With that said could someone clear some things up with the vision line.

Let say I have Temperature sensor inline G1/4 for VISION. Where to I run the cable to now? Is their some kind of hub I run these new cables to?


----------



## Chunky_Chimp

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> As mentioned the license is bound to the serial number which means the device itself is your key that decides which versions you can use. So you can move that device from one PC to another without any problems. If you sell this device to someone else he will also get the license with it. This is something to keep in mind if you purchase a license. If you have several devices you must select one that will be registered for the new license. You should choose a device where you know that you will not sell it anytime soon. Just in case you sell it anyway and no other device is entitled for the current version too, than we are back at the situation with the Diva example.
> 
> With clearer words: you only need a single device with a valid license for the latest software to be able to use all other compatible devices too (no matter how old they are). So in the end one with currently no valid license for 2017 should also consider if it might make more sense to purchase a VISION for example which already comes with a 2-year license and serves for all other products rather than just purchasing the naked license. So upgrading the license by purchasing small gadgets for example is definitely the better deal.


I was following the logic behind a paid license for the software without much complaint until I got to this part. Why make it per device? People already pay a premium over competitors' products for you guys' (though Heatkiller blocks seem to be about the same price in some cases), so why charge for separate licenses for different types of devices? Why not pay once for one Aquasuite license that can be used universally for all types of products that interact with the software? I'm not questioning why you need to charge in the first place, I'm just saying it seems a bit irrational to charge per device type on top of what people already paid for the components themselves prior to these changes.


----------



## Mega Man

guys. it IS NOT per piece of equip

you buy it and it is attached to A sn, you pick.

you have that equip connected to the pc. ALL aquaero equip is granted access to any equip you have, that is why i asked
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> { question one }
> IE one of divas builds. has 5 xts she buys a 6th. - when she downloads 2018 or 2019, does that license now work for the other 5 ?
> 
> or lets say people have the d5 usb- does the license transfer from a new 6xt to 2018?
> 
> or is the license per product {end question one}
> { question Two }
> if we "make" a 6 lt from a 6xt do we still get the free upgrades- ( i guess i am asking is the license linked to the SN or are you using a username / password )
> {end question two }
> {question 3}
> is the license one time use ( IE ONE PC- with pc meaning by the mobo like OEM windows ? )
> or just one pc can use it at a time.
> or is a license a "household" license that can be used on many pcs
> { end question 3 }
> 
> 
> 
> Your license is for the software, not for the hardware. _*So as soon as you connect a device that has a liecense for a current aquasuite version, it also allows you to use all other compatible devices with this version. So in your Diva example, she would be able to use all her aquaeros till aquasuite 2019 as long as the newest device is still part of the system. If she removes this one the software can be still used like before BUT as soon as she updates the software or connects a new device (that has no current license) the software can not be used anymore. Of course she can still access the version(s) that the other five aquaeros are entitled for. Right now this would be at the aquasuite 2017 for her (since she already has XT devices).*_
> 
> The licensing system can not tell if your aquaero LT was born as a XT. To make sure to get the aquasuite 2017 license for such a device you must connect the display again *before* you run the downloader! If you run the download while the device is an LT, it will be registered with its serial number as an LT and this version is maybe not entitled for the aquasuite 2017 if it has a total runtime of more than 90 days. When you successfully register a license for this device, you can remove the display again since the license is bound to the serial number of the device and that one will not change if the display is removed.
> 
> As mentioned the license is bound to the serial number which means the device itself is your key that decides which versions you can use. So you can move that device from one PC to another without any problems. If you sell this device to someone else he will also get the license with it. This is something to keep in mind if you purchase a license. If you have several devices you must select one that will be registered for the new license. You should choose a device where you know that you will not sell it anytime soon. Just in case you sell it anyway and no other device is entitled for the current version too, than we are back at the situation with the Diva example.
> 
> With clearer words: you only need a single device with a valid license for the latest software to be able to use all other compatible devices too (no matter how old they are). So in the end one with currently no valid license for 2017 should also consider if it might make more sense to purchase a VISION for example which already comes with a 2-year license and serves for all other products rather than just purchasing the naked license. So upgrading the license by purchasing small gadgets for example is definitely the better deal.
> 
> And just again to be sure that everyone got it: every device will get at least the aquasuite 2016-5 that can be installed as many times you want and can be also used as long as you want. The same is true for all later versions if you do not extend the license. You will never run into a case were you can not use a device because it will always have a license for a specific aquasuite version.
Click to expand...

personally i think the SN is the best for them to implement- unlike windows it can be transferred to ANY pc, if they made it per account they could not keep you from using it on multiple machines, without window like issues ( using mobo info - which idk about you but i change alot )


----------



## Chunky_Chimp

Well, that'll teach me to try to interpret anything while sick... totally read it wrong. Thanks for re-clarifying in his place, but it does leave the glaring by-design issue that when you give away/sell/whatever the associated device, you have to buy a new license for the rest of your own. I get that he covered that part by saying to pick a device you're unlikely to part with, but that's still a bit of a downer to have to take that into consideration.


----------



## Shoggy

At firs some general information.

The official announcement of the new aquasuite and the license system has been translated to English this morning:

*aquasuite 2017 - Data without borders*

*aquasuite 2017 licensing system*

This should already anwer many questions.

Several bugs that have been reported last weekend have been already fixed in aquasuite 2017-1.1 and 2016-5.1. So please perform an update.

Some important points about the liecensing that some have not understand so far:


*All devices - no matter how old - can be used unlimited without paying anything in addition*
Every device gets at least a free license for aquasuite 2016; this license or any other license (2017, 2018 and so on) will not expire
The core of aquasuite 2016-5.1 is the same as 2017-1.1 but without the new features
The most superior license of the connected devices serves for all other devices with an inferior license; so older devices can be still used with the lastest aquasuite version as long as at least one device has a license for it
The license is bound to the serial number of a device so the device itself acts as activation key
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cram501*
> 
> @Shoggy
> 
> I don't mind paying for new versions with new features. Overall, I think its a good idea. There are issues with the software that need to be fixed prior to people paying for it. When it was a free add on, over looking some of the issues was easier.
> 
> For example, when I installed the new 2017 software:
> 
> 
> Only detected, for licensing purposes, those devices connected via USB. I have have 2 pumps only connected by aquabus currently that were not detected. It is your own protocol, Aqausuite should be able to detect them. If it can't, it may be time to give up/remove that protocol.
> When I installed the new version, I could no longer get to the gobal settings. Aquasuite would crash with an unhandled exception (all exceptions should be handled regardless of the severity of the issue).
> I had to completely wipe all of my saved data, settings, and charts to get to global settings. When I got to global settings, I reset the flow to be gallons/minute. Aquasuite now ignores those settings and still uses liter/hr. I need to test the reset on a reboot.
> I had 2017 running overnight. When I looked at my computer this morning, all charts had no data. This has been an issue for a couple of years. The chart may come back but in many cases it stays and the chart needs to be re-created. This happens to me a few times a month and can be irritating.
> 
> I've been running the software for a day and have run into obvious issues. These need to be fixed if I have to pay for the software in the future.
> 
> Aquasuite is a nice piece of software when it is working. If you can polish the system and raise the quality, it would be worth it even if you didn't have the hardware.


The aquabus is a VERY simple communication interface. It can not access data like the serial numbers. So, you really want to drop the option to let devices interact with each other just because of this minor "issue" where you are forced to temporary connect a USB cable...

The problem with your crash must have something to do with your specific settings because it is no general problem. Since you already did a complete new installation we will not be able to take a look at this issue because we would have required your configuration folder of the aquasuite. It can be found under C:\ProgramData\aquasuite-data. So if you get such a problem again, please zip this folder and mail it to us incl. a description of the problem.

For the problem with the charts you should contact the support by e-mail and include the mentioned folder, save your problematic overview page, include screenshots of the problem and provide as much information as possible. We can only fix problems that have been reported and can be reproduced. Unfortunately from time to time there are problems that can be not fixed in a useful way since theay are too special and affect just that specific system configuration.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BelowAverageIQ*
> 
> I purchased my AQ6 XT in June. Update to 2017-1, it was covered, yet my Farbwerk I purchased in September was not......... I applied the latest firmware for both.
> 
> I purchased a new licence anyway, 2018, but it only applies to ONE item!!! You either apply it to the AQ6 XT or the Farbwerk.
> 
> The only reason they were listed, as others mentioned, was because they are connected via USB. My pump and USB Flow sensor are connected via Aquabus. (Yes I know I purchased the wrong flow sensor).
> 
> I dont mind buying a software licence. But is should apply to my whole system, not just one piece.


There was no reason for you to purchase a license. You should contact the support for a refund. Please provide the key that you have purchased and your PayPal transaction code. Your aquaero 6 XT receives an aquasuite 2017 license automatically which is enough to use the software with all other devices. When your currently connected aquabus devices would have been connected via USB it would have made no difference so if the downloader or aquasuite is able to see them or nor makes no difference in your setup.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GTXJackBauer*
> 
> That makes me wonder. If the AQ gets the latest license/software/firmware with all the new features, does that apply to the rest of the eco-system or does each component need's its own licensing?
> 
> Say for example, if you applied the 2018 license to the Farbwerk, would the AQ be subjected to that licensing?
> 
> Too many questions and rightfully so. This will be uber ridiculous if you have to purchase licensing for almost every piece.


You only need one device with a current license bound to its serial number. This device will act like a key that activates the aquasuite for you. Of course all other devices - no matter how old they are and which license status they have - can be used with this version. As additional information: every device that you own has at least a license for aquasuite 2016-5 which is free and does not exprie. So no matter what products you have, you can always use them without any additional charges!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ashcroft*
> 
> For the example above if you apply the licence to the fabwerk then the software will work with all devices whileever the fabwerk is connected. Take the Fabwerk away and the licence goes too.


This is correct but the aquasuite will stay activated as before if you remove the farbwerk. So as long as the software is not updated, installed again or a new Aqua Computer USB device will be added to the PC, the sofware will stay activated. Or in other words: we only check the license while installation (updates too) and when a new device is being attached. Otherwise the software does not communicate with our licesnse server at all.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Daggi*
> 
> I think I made a huge mistake upgrading from aquasuite 2016-4 to 2016-5, upgraded the firmware and now liter per minute won't work only liter per hour. Tried to go back to 2016-4 but it doesen't work since i upgraded the firmware on my AQ6. Is it possible to downgrade the firmware or do i have to live with the 16-5 version?


This bug besides serval others has been already fixed. Please download the version 2016-5.1.
Downgrading the firmware is not possible. Please note that this is no new limitation, it is not possible anymore since a long time.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cram501*
> 
> I have the same problem. The conversion from Liters -> Gallons or C -> F doesn't work.
> 
> I also create charts. Attempting to put more than one on a page causes a crash in the software. The charts work in the "Analyze Data" screen.


Same as above. Install the aquasuite 2016-5.1 ode 2017-1.1.
For the problems with the charts see my first reply to cram501and provide a detailed error report via e-mail.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> I hate subscription base software. It's one reason I refuse to use some of Adobe software.
> 
> With that said could someone clear some things up with the vision line.
> 
> Let say I have Temperature sensor inline G1/4 for VISION. Where to I run the cable to now? Is their some kind of hub I run these new cables to?


This not a subscription! You are not forced to purchase anything. Every device - also the old ones - have a license for a specifc version that you can install as many times as you want and also use as long as you want. There is no situation where you are not able to use a device because you have no activated software. You always have a license for a specifc version. This is also applicable for the new licenses. Let us say you got a liecense for 2017, then you can still contiue to use it in 2018 and beyond.
If you are able to attach an external temperature sensor depends on the VISION version. Some support it, other not. Check the shop description for details. Those which support it have an opening for the cable somewhere in their housing.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chunky_Chimp*
> 
> I was following the logic behind a paid license for the software without much complaint until I got to this part. Why make it per device? People already pay a premium over competitors' products for you guys' (though Heatkiller blocks seem to be about the same price in some cases), so why charge for separate licenses for different types of devices? Why not pay once for one Aquasuite license that can be used universally for all types of products that interact with the software? I'm not questioning why you need to charge in the first place, I'm just saying it seems a bit irrational to charge per device type on top of what people already paid for the components themselves prior to these changes.


It is not per device! You only need one license which enables you to use any many products as you want. You do not license the usage of the products; you license the usage of the software - and only of new version to be exact. You can always download a free version since every device that you have is already liecensed for a specifc version.
Well, maybe you already got that and your questions is why a superior license is not also transferred to every other connected device with an inferior license. In this case it would not take too long and the bad boys will offer an activation service where they upgrade licenes for others.


----------



## Chunky_Chimp

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> It is not per device! You only need one license which enables you to use any many products as you want. You do not license the usage of the products; you license the usage of the software - and only of new version to be exact. You can always download a free version since every device that you have is already liecensed for a specifc version.
> Well, maybe you already got that and your questions is why a superior license is not also transferred to every other connected device with an inferior license. In this case it would not take too long and the bad boys will offer an activation service where they upgrade licenes for others.


I see, that makes sense. I think what I mean to ask at this point is, what about binding the software license key to the system instead of the selected device? Would that mitigate the risk of a non-authentic activation service?


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> At firs some general information.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> The official announcement of the new aquasuite and the license system has been translated to English this morning:
> 
> *aquasuite 2017 - Data without borders*
> 
> *aquasuite 2017 licensing system*
> 
> This should already anwer many questions.
> 
> Several bugs that have been reported last weekend have been already fixed in aquasuite 2017-1.1 and 2016-5.1. So please perform an update.
> 
> Some important points about the liecensing that some have not understand so far:
> 
> 
> *All devices - no matter how old - can be used unlimited without paying anything in addition*
> Every device gets at least a free license for aquasuite 2016; this license or any other license (2017, 2018 and so on) will not expire
> The core of aquasuite 2016-5.1 is the same as 2017-1.1 but without the new features
> The most superior license of the connected devices serves for all other devices with an inferior license; so older devices can be still used with the lastest aquasuite version as long as at least one device has a license for it
> The license is bound to the serial number of a device so the device itself acts as activation key
> The aquabus is a VERY simple communication interface. It can not access data like the serial numbers. So, you really want to drop the option to let devices interact with each other just because of this minor "issue" where you are forced to temporary connect a USB cable...
> 
> The problem with your crash must have something to do with your specific settings because it is no general problem. Since you already did a complete new installation we will not be able to take a look at this issue because we would have required your configuration folder of the aquasuite. It can be found under C:\ProgramData\aquasuite-data. So if you get such a problem again, please zip this folder and mail it to us incl. a description of the problem.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> For the problem with the charts you should contact the support by e-mail and include the mentioned folder, save your problematic overview page, include screenshots of the problem and provide as much information as possible. We can only fix problems that have been reported and can be reproduced. Unfortunately from time to time there are problems that can be not fixed in a useful way since theay are too special and affect just that specific system configuration.
> There was no reason for you to purchase a license. You should contact the support for a refund. Please provide the key that you have purchased and your PayPal transaction code. Your aquaero 6 XT receives an aquasuite 2017 license automatically which is enough to use the software with all other devices. When your currently connected aquabus devices would have been connected via USB it would have made no difference so if the downloader or aquasuite is able to see them or nor makes no difference in your setup.
> You only need one device with a current license bound to its serial number. This device will act like a key that activates the aquasuite for you. Of course all other devices - no matter how old they are and which license status they have - can be used with this version. As additional information: every device that you own has at least a license for aquasuite 2016-5 which is free and does not exprie. So no matter what products you have, you can always use them without any additional charges!
> This is correct but the aquasuite will stay activated as before if you remove the farbwerk. So as long as the software is not updated, installed again or a new Aqua Computer USB device will be added to the PC, the sofware will stay activated. Or in other words: we only check the license while installation (updates too) and when a new device is being attached. Otherwise the software does not communicate with our licesnse server at all.
> This bug besides serval others has been already fixed. Please download the version 2016-5.1.
> Downgrading the firmware is not possible. Please note that this is no new limitation, it is not possible anymore since a long time.
> Same as above. Install the aquasuite 2016-5.1 ode 2017-1.1.
> For the problems with the charts see my first reply to cram501and provide a detailed error report via e-mail.
> This not a subscription! You are not forced to purchase anything. Every device - also the old ones - have a license for a specifc version that you can install as many times as you want and also use as long as you want. There is no situation where you are not able to use a device because you have no activated software. You always have a license for a specifc version. This is also applicable for the new licenses. Let us say you got a liecense for 2017, then you can still contiue to use it in 2018 and beyond.
> If you are able to attach an external temperature sensor depends on the VISION version. Some support it, other not. Check the shop description for details. Those which support it have an opening for the cable somewhere in their housing.
> It is not per device! You only need one license which enables you to use any many products as you want. You do not license the usage of the products; you license the usage of the software - and only of new version to be exact. You can always download a free version since every device that you have is already liecensed for a specifc version.
> Well, maybe you already got that and your questions is why a superior license is not also transferred to every other connected device with an inferior license. In this case it would not take too long and the bad boys will offer an activation service where they upgrade licenes for others
> 
> 
> .


everytime I go to Aquasuite and try to go to settings aquasuite crashes so I am unable to change to GPM


----------



## Kimir

@Shoggy Do Aqua Computer keep a download "archive" folder so one that have a (older) device that does not get the 2017-1.1 Aquasuite license, can still download the late 2016-5?
I'm asking because in the download section, I can't seems to find any other than the aquasuite_setup that shows only install for the 2017-1.1 over here.
You know, in case one had to format, or else and didn't keep a backup of the software.


----------



## Shoggy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> everytime I go to Aquasuite and try to go to settings aquasuite crashes so I am unable to change to GPM


Please zip your folder C:\ProgramData\aquasuite-data and send it to use (info at aqua-computer.de). Afterwards rename the file aquasuite.xml to aquasuite.backup and start the aquasuite again. Maybe that will already solve your problem.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kimir*
> 
> @Shoggy Do Aqua Computer keep a download "archive" folder so one that have a (older) device that does not get the 2017-1.1 Aquasuite license, can still download the late 2016-5?
> I'm asking because in the download section, I can't seems to find any other than the aquasuite_setup that shows only install for the 2017-1.1 over here.
> You know, in case one had to format, or else and didn't keep a backup of the software.


The downloader will offer you older version *if necessary.* For example people with an aquaero 3.07/4.00 will also have the aquasuite 4.72 in the drop down menu. Since one of your devices qualifes for the latest version you can only download this version.


----------



## ruffhi

I have a non software related question ... I want to make a shorter USB connector cable than the monsters that came with the Aquaero. I'm assuming I need 2 x 5-pin USB connectors (example from moddiy) as well as some pins (example from moddiy) and 5 types of different color wire (if I want to keep my sanity) - what gauge wire?

Anything else that I need? What about the crimping ... just the same as a fan cable? Or crimp using the PSU crimper?


----------



## Ashcroft

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ruffhi*
> 
> I have a non software related question ... I want to make a shorter USB connector cable than the monsters that came with the Aquaero. I'm assuming I need 2 x 5-pin USB connectors (example from moddiy) as well as some pins (example from moddiy) and 5 types of different color wire (if I want to keep my sanity) - what gauge wire?
> 
> Anything else that I need? What about the crimping ... just the same as a fan cable? Or crimp using the PSU crimper?


moddiy have all the connectors and pins you need as well as proper 5 strand bundled wire. They are more difficult to make than most other cables because of the small size but its doable.
Its made more complicated by the shielding that is present in standard usb cables. Its possible to do without it but the length of cable plays a part.

Its easier though to just buy shorter cables. I have found various lengths on ebay from 20cm to 2 meters.

I normally buy these

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Startech-com-Usbint5pin-18in-5-Pin-Internal-Usb-Cable-/332006444287?hash=item4d4d204cff:g:XeEAAOSwr7ZW4A73

and cut it in half to make shorter cables. You just need a couple of 5 pin connectors.

These do the same job

http://www.ebay.com/itm/10pcs-2-54mm-20cm-Dupont-wire-cable-4p-4p-pin-Connector-For-Arduino-Female-Femal-/180912686735?hash=item2a1f3c868f:m:mDE1rGTQIYlg0O2VScXTyFA


----------



## Kimir

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> The downloader will offer you older version *if necessary.* For example people with an aquaero 3.07/4.00 will also have the aquasuite 4.72 in the drop down menu. Since one of your devices qualifes for the latest version you can only download this version.


Make sense, thanks.
I admit, when I tried it at home, it couldn't connect to the server (it wasn't officially released anyway at that time) and I tried it at work before asking that, but there isn't any AC device connected to this PC.


----------



## Shoggy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ruffhi*
> 
> I have a non software related question ...


Boooooh








Quote:


> I want to make a shorter USB connector cable than the monsters that came with the Aquaero. I'm assuming I need 2 x 5-pin USB connectors (example from moddiy) as well as some pins (example from moddiy) and 5 types of different color wire (if I want to keep my sanity) - what gauge wire?
> 
> Anything else that I need? What about the crimping ... just the same as a fan cable? Or crimp using the PSU crimper?


If you use 0,25mm² you will be on the safe side for sure.

I am not sure about the crimper. Personally I would just use pliers instead of getting any special tools


----------



## ruffhi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ashcroft*
> 
> Its easier though to just buy shorter cables. I have found various lengths on ebay from 20cm to 2 meters.
> 
> I normally buy these
> 
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/Startech-com-Usbint5pin-18in-5-Pin-Internal-Usb-Cable-/332006444287?hash=item4d4d204cff:g:XeEAAOSwr7ZW4A73


Thanks +REP. Most of them are 18" but there appears to be some 24" and a couple of 60" (!!) versions. I will measure the monster that I currently have and run some string to measure the desired length.


----------



## ruffhi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *ruffhi*
> 
> I have a non software related question ...
> 
> 
> 
> Boooooh
Click to expand...































Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> If you use 0,25mm² you will be on the safe side for sure.
> 
> I am not sure about the crimper. Personally I would just use pliers instead of getting any special tools


Thanks. I may go with just buying what I need (instead of making it).


----------



## apw63

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ruffhi*
> 
> I have a non software related question ... I want to make a shorter USB connector cable than the monsters that came with the Aquaero. I'm assuming I need 2 x 5-pin USB connectors (example from moddiy) as well as some pins (example from moddiy) and 5 types of different color wire (if I want to keep my sanity) - what gauge wire?
> 
> Anything else that I need? What about the crimping ... just the same as a fan cable? Or crimp using the PSU crimper?


This is what I did very cheap Aquacomputer Internal USB Connection Cable 25 cm (53221


----------



## ruffhi

Thx APW. I searched modmymods for dupont connectors (zilch) so I am a bit peeved that I missed their shorter cable. 10" is the shortest I have seen. It might be too short for what I need.


----------



## Ashcroft

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ruffhi*
> 
> Thanks +REP. Most of them are 18" but there appears to be some 24" and a couple of 60" (!!) versions. I will measure the monster that I currently have and run some string to measure the desired length.


Yeah 18" sounds like a lot buts its only 45cm and considering ATX MBs are about 30cm high, and USB headers on the bottom edge, its normally a pretty good length. Better than the huge original cables at least.

I made some super short one just for using with my laptop doing external stuff.


----------



## jsutter71

Why not just make your own cables. Or take the cable that comes with your equipment and cut to length, crimp, and sleeve accordingly. You can use the old terminal connector so the only thing you need to purchase are the terminals themselves. In the long run you will save a lot of money by making your own cables. Terminal pins and wire is far cheaper then buying over priced cables. I saved close to $500 in my last build by making my own power cables.


----------



## Kimir

You can't be saving $500 by making cable alone. No cable set cost nearly this much, even custom made.


----------



## cram501

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> The problem with your crash must have something to do with your specific settings because it is no general problem. Since you already did a complete new installation we will not be able to take a look at this issue because we would have required your configuration folder of the aquasuite. It can be found under C:\ProgramData\aquasuite-data. So if you get such a problem again, please zip this folder and mail it to us incl. a description of the problem.
> 
> For the problem with the charts you should contact the support by e-mail and include the mentioned folder, save your problematic overview page, include screenshots of the problem and provide as much information as possible. We can only fix problems that have been reported and can be reproduced. Unfortunately from time to time there are problems that can be not fixed in a useful way since theay are too special and affect just that specific system configuration.
> 
> For the problems with the charts see my first reply to cram501and provide a detailed error report via e-mail.


I have emailed the information as well as screen shots. This is easily reproduced by me. If I uninstall/delete all aquasuite information and reinstall the application, I can readily reproduce the crash without much effort. I've detailed what I'm logging and how I attempt to create the chart. The ease at which I can reproduce the issue tends to make me think this is not a unique situation.

Does anyone else use custom charts (from Analyze Data section) and not have an issue?

I also now have to reconnect all my devices via USB and see what the latest license I can get (I have two new USB pumps currently connected using the old connector).


----------



## jsutter71

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kimir*
> 
> You can't be saving $500 by making cable alone. No cable set cost nearly this much, even custom made.


You obviously have not priced custom cables lately. Go to
https://cablemod.com/
http://www.ensourced.net/

For a complete set of power cables for my STH10 which requires longer then normal cables using parachute cord I would have spent more then that actually. I used no extensions in my build and all were hand done by myself. Also keep in mind that I have 6 Mechanical drives with 3 sets of custom made cables with very specific length requirements.

http://www.overclock.net/t/1595092/my-new-sth10-build/0_30

Just a quick example. With the cables I used This would have been the cost at ensourced.


----------



## Kimir

Well, nop, I never checked ensourced. That's some pricey stuff right there (sure if quality but oh boy the price, out of my league).
A standard sleeved cable set from cablemod for $100 is pricey enough for me. Higher than that, I'd do it myself too, I have the tools anyway.


----------



## cram501

I recently installed two new Aquacomputer USB D5 pumps. I've mounted one at the end of a Monsoon reservoir and the other in a Monsoon stand alone D5 pump top. All this equipment is new so I don't have the same set up for a comparison.

In Aquasuite, I set both at 80%: Pump 1 runs at 4066 rpm and pump 2 runs at 4246 rpm. Pump 2 constantly fluctuates from 4246 rpm to somewhere between 4350-4600 rpm. Pump 2 is louder than pump 1 although I've dampened it with a rubber buffer where it is mounted. The flow rate is constant and I haven't seen any flow fluctuations.

The combination of the pump speed fluctuation and noise bothers me as my old D5s ran pretty close to the same RPM. I have both pumps attached via aquabus and usb.

I'm trying to determine if one of the pumps is bad or whether I could have some other installation issue.


----------



## jsutter71

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cram501*
> 
> I recently installed two new Aquacomputer USB D5 pumps. I've mounted one at the end of a Monsoon reservoir and the other in a Monsoon stand alone D5 pump top. All this equipment is new so I don't have the same set up for a comparison.
> 
> In Aquasuite, I set both at 80%: Pump 1 runs at 4066 rpm and pump 2 runs at 4246 rpm. Pump 2 constantly fluctuates from 4246 rpm to somewhere between 4350-4600 rpm. Pump 2 is louder than pump 1 although I've dampened it with a rubber buffer where it is mounted. The flow rate is constant and I haven't seen any flow fluctuations.
> 
> The combination of the pump speed fluctuation and noise bothers me as my old D5s ran pretty close to the same RPM. I have both pumps attached via aquabus and usb.
> 
> I'm trying to determine if one of the pumps is bad or whether I could have some other installation issue.


I'm currently using 3 USB D5 pumps in my system. 1 under my reservoir and the other 2 in a serial configuration using a EK-XTOP Revo Dual D5. I have spent much time changing settings with all 3 to get the best quality speeds with the lowest amount of noise. To answer your question if their is a noise difference between my 3 pumps, than it is subtle enough to where I can't notice it. In my system I have 4 rads, all with push/pull Noctua fans and I can barely hear them running at 75% power. With all 3 of my pumps running I can not hear them at all when running at 70%. Even with all 3 running at 100% they make less noise then my AC air vent in my office. I live in San Antonio so today the temp will reach 80F. It sounds to me like your coolant flow might be constricted going into the pump that is making the noise. Otherwise your pumps should sound about the same.


----------



## galletabah

I want the aquasuite 2017


----------



## jsutter71

What qualifies as a new device with a qualifying 2017 license. All my Aqua computer devices were purchased in 2016. Why does that not qualify for an updated license if my Aquaero which was purchased in 2015 does? That seems like backwards logic to me.


----------



## galletabah

mi aquaero was purchased in August


----------



## jsutter71

Is their a way to get the software to use my default web browser? Chrome instead of Edge.

Please explain something to me. I understand that the Aquaero 6XT qualifies for the 2017 license *AND*, that is all you need in order to operate all the attached MPS & Farbwerk devices. I get that. What is not clearly explained to me is this.
1. the 2017 license adds upgraded features to the qualifying devices which I have already noticed in the software for the Aquaero. What exactly are the upgraded features for the other devices. IE the MPS and Farbwerk devices if any?
2. Is their a way to add the 2017 license to the other devices in order to take advantage of those upgraded features if any. And if so, how would you do that? It seems that the software does not allow you to click on an individual device and update its license.
3. If you do purchase an upgraded license, would I have to purchase a separate one for each individual device? For instance 3 individual licences for the same pump if I had 3 of them?


----------



## nyck

hello, i have a problem with the new aquasuite 2017 1.1 softwere. when turn on the my PC the aquacomputer service don't start automatically and on every reboot i am forced to start the service manually in the aquasuite.
I try to uninstalling and reinstalling the softwere many times, i used ccleaner to clean the windows registry, i verified that Aquacomputer service was put in autostart, ecc..
does anyone have any idea?

sorry for my bad english


----------



## JasonMorris

You only need one license for ALL devices.
You just pick one that it gets applied to like an AQ6 or Fabrwerk.


----------



## Kimir

Got home and installed 2017-1.1, I needed to update the firmware of my 6XT so I did that in the process.
Got back everything as it was before (screenshots of everything) and it went flawlessly. I have not use of the new features as of yet, but you never know.


----------



## ruffhi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kimir*
> 
> Got home and installed 2017-1.1, I needed to update the firmware of my 6XT so I did that in the process.
> Got back everything as it was before (screenshots of everything) and it went flawlessly. I have not use of the new features as of yet, but you never know.


Same with me ... except I cannot access Aquasuite / systems without it crashing and it is showing litres per minute instead of gallons per minute.


----------



## GTXJackBauer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kimir*
> 
> Got home and installed 2017-1.1, I needed to update the firmware of my 6XT so I did that in the process.
> Got back everything as it was before (screenshots of everything) and it went flawlessly. I have not use of the new features as of yet, but you never know.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ruffhi*
> 
> Same with me ... except I cannot access Aquasuite / systems without it crashing and it is showing litres per minute instead of gallons per minute.


I was about to update and flash when I've read some from the states are crashing and the GPM isn't showing up. Until then, I"m holding off till I know those matters have been fixed.


----------



## cram501

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GTXJackBauer*
> 
> I was about to update and flash when I've read some from the states are crashing and the GPM isn't showing up. Until then, I"m holding off till I know those matters have been fixed.


If you get Aquasuite 17-1.1, the Gallons and Fahrenheit should be working. I installed the updated version and my conversions are correct.

I had to completely uninstall all versions and data to get to the global settings without a crash.


----------



## GTXJackBauer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cram501*
> 
> If you get Aquasuite 17-1.1, the Gallons and Fahrenheit should be working. I installed the updated version and my conversions are correct.
> 
> I had to completely uninstall all versions and data to get to the global settings without a crash.


In other words, I can used the saved profile it creates once I install the new version and flash?


----------



## ruffhi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cram501*
> 
> I had to completely uninstall all versions and data to get to the global settings without a crash.


by ... _uninstall data_ ... did you mean delete your back up files or ... something else?


----------



## cram501

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ruffhi*
> 
> by ... _uninstall data_ ... did you mean delete your back up files or ... something else?


I backed up any data I wanted and when I uninstalled, I had it remove all files. When I reinstalled, I said a new install to lose all data. Then it worked.


----------



## cram501

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GTXJackBauer*
> 
> In other words, I can used the saved profile it creates once I install the new version and flash?


Make sure you save your profiles and pages outside the ProgramData/aquasuite directory. If you specify a new install, it will delete those files.


----------



## ruffhi

Thx. Copied the data, uninstall (selecting the delete data option), reinstall, copy back data ... and it is all good.


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ruffhi*
> 
> Same with me ... except I cannot access Aquasuite / systems without it crashing and it is showing litres per minute instead of gallons per minute.


Same problem i have


----------



## DirtyBear

I was looking all over the web to find out why there is no reading with the MPS 400
But there is no Luck at all ! Can anyone Help me out !??

PS: Aquacomputer seems don't have any answer or they don't want to help at all !


----------



## Shoggy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jsutter71*
> 
> What qualifies as a new device with a qualifying 2017 license. All my Aqua computer devices were purchased in 2016. Why does that not qualify for an updated license if my Aquaero which was purchased in 2015 does? That seems like backwards logic to me.


Check this chart for further details.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jsutter71*
> 
> Is their a way to get the software to use my default web browser? Chrome instead of Edge.
> 
> Please explain something to me. I understand that the Aquaero 6XT qualifies for the 2017 license *AND*, that is all you need in order to operate all the attached MPS & Farbwerk devices. I get that. What is not clearly explained to me is this.
> 1. the 2017 license adds upgraded features to the qualifying devices which I have already noticed in the software for the Aquaero. What exactly are the upgraded features for the other devices. IE the MPS and Farbwerk devices if any?
> 2. Is their a way to add the 2017 license to the other devices in order to take advantage of those upgraded features if any. And if so, how would you do that? It seems that the software does not allow you to click on an individual device and update its license.
> 3. If you do purchase an upgraded license, would I have to purchase a separate one for each individual device? For instance 3 individual licences for the same pump if I had 3 of them?


The browser can not be changed. The aquasuite uses the default browser that is defined in the .NET framework. In the end its a Microsoft thing.

1.) MPS and farbwerk got no new features.
2.) It is not possible to copy the license to other devices nor is it necessary. The license is for the software and not for the devices. The device with the most superior automatically serves for all other devices - no matter how old they are.
3.) You should not purchase an update as long as you have a valid license for the current aquasuite 2017 since it would be a waste of money. In your case aquasuite 2018 will be the first version where you could purchase a new license. If you don't, you can still use aquasuite 2017 as long as you want. As said one licensed device is enough. There is no need get a license for each device.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nyck*
> 
> hello, i have a problem with the new aquasuite 2017 1.1 softwere. when turn on the my PC the aquacomputer service don't start automatically and on every reboot i am forced to start the service manually in the aquasuite.
> I try to uninstalling and reinstalling the softwere many times, i used ccleaner to clean the windows registry, i verified that Aquacomputer service was put in autostart, ecc..
> does anyone have any idea?


Which Windows version do you use? You can try to install the Microsoft Visual C++ Redistributable package and Microsoft .NET Framework 4.6.1 framework again.

If that does not help, please provide the error message for the service from the Windows event log. There muse be a reason why it crashs as soon as it starts. Please note that there are tow different error reports. We need the extended one:

 

Please send the error report to info at aqua-computer.de
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ruffhi*
> 
> Same with me ... except I cannot access Aquasuite / systems without it crashing and it is showing litres per minute instead of gallons per minute.


Please zip and send the folder C:\ProgramData\aquasuite-data to info at aqua-computer.de. Afterwards rename or delete the file aquasuite.xml from this folder.
The problem with the wrong units should be already solved in 2017-1.1. If you already use this version and still get a wrong unit displayed, then please let us know where you see it.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> Same problem i have


Same as above.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DirtyBear*
> 
> I was looking all over the web to find out why there is no reading with the MPS 400


The raw value of your sensor shows 0 which already indicates a hardware problem. I recommend to return the sensor for a check.


----------



## ruffhi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *ruffhi*
> 
> Same with me ... except I cannot access Aquasuite / systems without it crashing and it is showing litres per minute instead of gallons per minute.
> 
> 
> 
> Please zip and send the folder C:\ProgramData\aquasuite-data to info at aqua-computer.de. Afterwards rename or delete the file aquasuite.xml from this folder.
> The problem with the wrong units should be already solved in 2017-1.1. If you already use this version and still get a wrong unit displayed, then please let us know where you see it.
Click to expand...

Shoggy ... thanks for your post. I followed some instructions from others (above) about getting access to the settings tab ...
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ruffhi*
> 
> Thx. Copied the data, uninstall (selecting the delete data option), reinstall, copy back data ... and it is all good.


----------



## nyck

tnank for your help, i am working on win 7 64bit , i try to unistall and reistall microsoft visual c++ and framework but aquasuite service don't start automatically.


----------



## Shoggy

OK, how about the error reports from the event log? We will not solve this without further details since this is a very specific problem with your system and no general problem.


----------



## nyck

This afternoon when i am at home i do it.


----------



## nyck

Thank You.


----------



## DirtyBear

And where can I get the new Aquasuite ?
It seems I couldn't find it








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> Check this chart for further details.
> The browser can not be changed. The aquasuite uses the default browser that is defined in the .NET framework. In the end its a Microsoft thing.
> 
> 1.) MPS and farbwerk got no new features.
> 2.) It is not possible to copy the license to other devices nor is it necessary. The license is for the software and not for the devices. The device with the most superior automatically serves for all other devices - no matter how old they are.
> 3.) You should not purchase an update as long as you have a valid license for the current aquasuite 2017 since it would be a waste of money. In your case aquasuite 2018 will be the first version where you could purchase a new license. If you don't, you can still use aquasuite 2017 as long as you want. As said one licensed device is enough. There is no need get a license for each device.
> Which Windows version do you use? You can try to install the Microsoft Visual C++ Redistributable package and Microsoft .NET Framework 4.6.1 framework again.
> 
> If that does not help, please provide the error message for the service from the Windows event log. There muse be a reason why it crashs as soon as it starts. Please note that there are tow different error reports. We need the extended one:
> 
> 
> 
> Please send the error report to info at aqua-computer.de
> Please zip and send the folder C:\ProgramData\aquasuite-data to info at aqua-computer.de. Afterwards rename or delete the file aquasuite.xml from this folder.
> The problem with the wrong units should be already solved in 2017-1.1. If you already use this version and still get a wrong unit displayed, then please let us know where you see it.
> Same as above.
> The raw value of your sensor shows 0 which already indicates a hardware problem. I recommend to return the sensor for a check.


Thx for the reply


----------



## Shoggy

http://aquacomputer.de/software.html


----------



## jsutter71

Has anyone else had any issues with their overview pages not loading onto their desktop when they first turn on their PC? I was able to fix this issue before the software update by not positioning my pages on my 4K display. The software does not like native 4K (4096X2160) displays. Now I have a new issue. The pages properly load when I go into desktop mode in the software. Just not when I first boot up.


----------



## Kimir

No such issue here, loaded right up. I'm using 2560x1440 display tho.


----------



## jsutter71

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kimir*
> 
> No such issue here, loaded right up. I'm using 2560x1440 display tho.


Yep just realized my mistake.


----------



## mrkambo

I have a question, i think the answer maybe obvious, and im being blind but ill ask none the less.

Is there a way i can have Aquasuite monitor my gpu temps and when it hits a set threeshold so 45 degrees it just activates 'profile 2' and once the gpu's are out of 3d mode and the temps fall to 35 degrees it reverts back to 'profile 1'


----------



## nyck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> OK, how about the error reports from the event log? We will not solve this without further details since this is a very specific problem with your system and no general problem.


I have find 2 errors in the event log.
these are the screenshots




and these are the details.

eventlogerrors.txt 2k .txt file


----------



## jsutter71

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> Check this chart for further details.
> The browser can not be changed. The aquasuite uses the default browser that is defined in the .NET framework. In the end its a Microsoft thing.
> 
> 1.) MPS and farbwerk got no new features.
> 2.) It is not possible to copy the license to other devices nor is it necessary. The license is for the software and not for the devices. The device with the most superior automatically serves for all other devices - no matter how old they are.
> 3.) You should not purchase an update as long as you have a valid license for the current aquasuite 2017 since it would be a waste of money. In your case aquasuite 2018 will be the first version where you could purchase a new license. If you don't, you can still use aquasuite 2017 as long as you want. As said one licensed device is enough. There is no need get a license for each device.


*Thank you for the followup Shoggy







*


----------



## ruffhi

I have been playing with my Aquaero 6 PRO screen (the one on the hardware) and have loaded up some stuff ... I even got a graph to work once I worked out that the sampling time is how often it gets updated and not how much data is recorded (I had 30 minutes and was wondering why nothing was happening on the graph).

Anyway, I checked the manual about _*User Defined Logo*_ ...

_17.2. Special pages and logo (aquasuite only) The logo to be displayed in the information page "User defined logo" can be transferred to the aquaero. Required file format: Portable Network Graphics (".png"), size 256 x 64 pixels, monochrome (1 bit). Deviating sizes and color depths are automatically converted but will often result in objectionable quality. To restore the factory default logo, the firmware has to be reprogrammed into the aquaero (firmware update)._

... and was wondering how to 'transfer' it to the Aquaero.

I tricked Aquasuite by creating my logo and using the file of the same name. It worked in the software ...










... but it didn't work on the hardware ...










Help!!

Edit: Ohhh ... there is a button that says 'Upload custom logo to device'. Who knew?


----------



## GTXJackBauer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ruffhi*
> 
> Edit: Ohhh ... there is a button that says 'Upload custom logo to device'. Who knew?










.........


----------



## Ashcroft

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DirtyBear*
> 
> I was looking all over the web to find out why there is no reading with the MPS 400
> But there is no Luck at all ! Can anyone Help me out !??
> 
> PS: Aquacomputer seems don't have any answer or they don't want to help at all !


You should not have an unscaled value of zero.
Make sure the sensor is facing the right way, that the flow is going through it the correct way.


----------



## Revan654

Any chance we will see a Lifetime license option?


----------



## bern43

Installed Aquasuite 2017 and I'm now crashing everytime I try and access Aquasuite/Settings.


----------



## ruffhi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bern43*
> 
> Installed Aquasuite 2017 and I'm now crashing everytime I try and access Aquasuite/Settings.


I had the same issue ... see solution here ... or above.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cram501*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *ruffhi*
> 
> by ... _uninstall data_ ... did you mean delete your back up files or ... something else?
> 
> 
> 
> I backed up any data I wanted and when I uninstalled, I had it remove all files. When I reinstalled, I said a new install to lose all data. Then it worked.
Click to expand...


----------



## Shoggy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nyck*
> 
> I have find 2 errors in the event log.
> these are the screenshots
> 
> and these are the details.
> 
> eventlogerrors.txt 2k .txt file


Thanks. Unfortunately it does not tell us anything useful. It seems that the service does not even start and Windows stops it automatically since it gets no response at all.
We have another customer with the same problem. Maybe we can get some further details from him.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> Any chance we will see a Lifetime license option?


Very unlikely..

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bern43*
> 
> Installed Aquasuite 2017 and I'm now crashing everytime I try and access Aquasuite/Settings.


This problem is know and already fixed in 2017-1.2 / 2016-5.2 (not online yet). As work-around you can delete the file aquasuite.xml from the folder C:\ProgramData\aquasuite-data.


----------



## DirtyBear

I found out there was a leak inside the MPS 400


----------



## nyck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> Thanks. Unfortunately it does not tell us anything useful. It seems that the service does not even start and Windows stops it automatically since it gets no response at all.
> We have another customer with the same problem. Maybe we can get some further details from him.
> Very unlikely..
> This problem is know and already fixed in 2017-1.2 / 2016-5.2 (not online yet). As work-around you can delete the file aquasuite.xml from the folder C:\ProgramData\aquasuite-data.


Thank you, i have a question
It's possible to force the service to start with windows regedit?


----------



## Shoggy

No, that does not work. It must be started the way as it is intended. The service can not be started separately like a normal program.


----------



## Cozmo85

Can we display data like cpu or gpu speed on our aquaero displays now? (with aquasuite 2017)


----------



## nyck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> No, that does not work. It must be started the way as it is intended. The service can not be started separately like a normal program.


I installed aquasuite 2017 1.2 and now the service start after a few second.








If the support have not done it this relese ,then i was me, but I did something so absurd that I do not believe, it's impossible, it's impossible.


----------



## nyck

I sang victory too soon.

I noticed that if I turn on the PC with the router off or unplugged network cable, the aquacomputer service work.

PC-SWITCH-ROUTER TURN OFF OR UNPLUGGED CABLE=service work

If you connect the PC to a access point with the router turn on, the aquacomputer service work.

PC-CLIENT-ACCESS POINT(wireless)-SWITCH-ROUTER TURN ON =service work

however if I turn on the PC with the router switched on the aquacomputer service don't start

PC-SWITCH- ROUTER TURN ON = service don't start automatically.

at the beginning I could not believe it but I did a lot of tests.

My home network consists so:

router(TP-LINK TD-W8951ND) only connected to switch 8 ports(netgear pro safe plus) connected with PC, NAS, monitor,a powerline to another switch for TV-decoder, and an access point TP-LINk AP 500 for wireless network for tablet, other pc, ecc..

it is possible a problem with the license authentication?
with previous versions had no problems.

good night.


----------



## Shoggy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cozmo85*
> 
> Can we display data like cpu or gpu speed on our aquaero displays now? (with aquasuite 2017)


No, that is not possible. The aquaero can only display charts for data it can access directly (its own sensors or connected via aquabus).

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nyck*
> 
> I sang victory too soon.


No wonder because we have not changed anything in the service. We have a vague idea what might cause the problem. It has nothing to do with your findings. I will maybe contact you later today to test a modified service file.


----------



## zeroibis

Had some questions about the aquastream ULTIMATE and its PWM fan controller.

Is it possible to connect 6 Corsair ML120 PROs to the pump via some sort of splitter and control these fans as a single channel?

I plan to get the Advanced controller package and a cuplex kryos NEXT to then use the deta between the water temp in the cpu block and the air temp measured by remote sensor connected to the pump to control the fans.


----------



## Shoggy

The fan port of the pump is rated for 12W while a single fan is rated with 2.7W which makes 16.2W in total and would be too much.

Besides that you are also not able to get the delta value between both temperature sensors because this requires a virtual temperature sensor - this option is only available for the aquaero.


----------



## Cozmo85

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> No, that is not possible. The aquaero can only display charts for data it can access directly (its own sensors or connected via aquabus).


It can display data from software sensors (like hwinfo). Is there not a way to make that show anything in hwinfo (or its own monitor program in 2017) and allow us to do custom screens.


----------



## zeroibis

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> The fan port of the pump is rated for 12W while a single fan is rated with 2.7W which makes 16.2W in total and would be too much.
> 
> Besides that you are also not able to get the delta value between both temperature sensors because this requires a virtual temperature sensor - this option is only available for the aquaero.


Thanks, looks like it will be an aquaero build after all. This will make things easier anyways because I realized the 320mm internal length of the Node 804 is not long enough to fit a front mount rad on the GPU side. Thus now my fan count will be increased by at least 2.

Another question for the aquastream ULTIMATE, will pump stop and trigger an alarm in the event of no coolant in it? (I think this requires a feature unlock)


----------



## Shoggy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cozmo85*
> 
> It can display data from software sensors (like hwinfo). Is there not a way to make that show anything in hwinfo (or its own monitor program in 2017) and allow us to do custom screens.


OK, first reply was wrong. I have found it now. When I tried to assign the desired sensor value to the chart I was looking for the system entry which was not present. The temperature value must be configured as software sensor and then it is directly listed under the temperature sensors of the aquaero. Or in other words: it works.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zeroibis*
> 
> Another question for the aquastream ULTIMATE, will pump stop and trigger an alarm in the event of no coolant in it? (I think this requires a feature unlock)


The pump will not stop. To trigger a problem you will need the virtual flow sensor.


----------



## ruffhi

What am I doing wrong here? This is my controller for the pedestal fans (2 x 120.3 radiators with 3 fans each). They are running at max RPMs because the controller output is 0%. This was working ... but a computer reboot resulted in ...

*Edit:* I know I don't have anything 'using' this controller at present ... the ped fans are using a fixed 40% controller (and are nice and quiet at 400 RPMs).
*Edit2:* Using 2017-1.2 version of the software.


----------



## Shoggy

If a fan output is not assigned to a controller it will always run at 100%.


----------



## ruffhi

Noted.

My ped fans are assigned to a fix controller that is outputting 40% and they are quiet. When I assign them to the above controller, they run at 100% because the output from the controller is 0%.

My Q is ... why is this controller outputting 0%?

If it helps, here is ...


Spoiler: how I have configured my pedestal fans (power from PSU)

















Spoiler: what happens with a fixed controller (40%)

















Spoiler: what happens with the curve (broken)


----------



## valvehead

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ruffhi*
> 
> Noted.
> 
> My ped fans are assigned to a fix controller that is outputting 40% and they are quiet. When I assign them to the above controller, they run at 100% because the output from the controller is 0%.
> 
> My Q is ... why is this controller outputting 0%?


The controller is at 0% because your Water Air Delta (0.7C) has not yet passed the Startup Temperature (the vertical red line at 2.0C). Once it does the controller will become active, and the fans will follow the curve. IIRC the fans will even continue to follow the curve even when it drops below the Startup Temperature, but that will reset when the temperature drops below the lowest point on the curve (0C in your case). The controller will become active again when the temperature goes above the Startup Temperature again.

To sum up, the fans will not be controlled by the controller until it becomes active. Until then the fans will defer to the settings in the fan channel.

As for why your fans are running 100% when the controller is not active, try checking the "Hold minimum power" box in the fan channel settings. Also set the minimum power to the lowest PWM value that your fans respond to (around 10% to 40% depending on the fan).

EDIT: I'm still on 2016-4 at the moment, so I don't know if these behaviors have changed. Can anyone else verify?


----------



## jsutter71

Where can I download Aquasuite 2016. I need the older version for my laptop which I use to zero calibrate by flow 400 when my system is shut down. On that note, how often does that device need to be calibrated. I did it a few months ago, and the other day when I recalibrated it had a speed difference of at least .5 L/M. Or is that within the fault tolerance?


----------



## ruffhi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *valvehead*
> 
> The controller is at 0% because your Water Air Delta (0.7C) has not yet passed the Startup Temperature (the vertical red line at 2.0C).


Thanks for that input [+REP]. I changed the minimum to bring the red line down below zero ... then I found out that I can drag the red line around. Lots of little things in this software that you have to 'stumble' upon.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *valvehead*
> EDIT: I'm still on 2016-4 at the moment, so I don't know if these behaviors have changed. Can anyone else verify?


I can confirm that my curve is now controlling my ped fans. I killed off aquasuite and restarted it ... still controlled. I will test the control after computer reboot at a later date.

Edit: Rebooted ... ped fans still quiet







.


----------



## zeroibis

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> The pump will not stop. To trigger a problem you will need the virtual flow sensor.


OK cool, so the pump with the virtual flow sensor is able to stop and alarm in the event of coolant loss.


----------



## Madmaxneo

I am not an Aquaero owner yet but I was wondering if this would be good for me or not and what benefit it would provide me.

My system is in my sig.

I currently only have my cpu under a Swiftech H240-x though I plan on upgrading to a H320-X2 Prestige, though that will more than likely not happen until after I upgrade to an X99 system. I will change out the tubing and the fluid as I did with my current H240-X. I will also be upgrading to a watercooled 1080Ti when they are released but I plan on either getting one with a rad setup or keeping it in it's own small loop possibly using the H140-X (maybe eventually upgrading to dual 1080Ti's watercooled but they will both be in their own loop). My reasoning for this is I simply do not really want to mess with all that extra tubing, fittings, and a separate res. I also have UV lighting in my case and the tubing is uv reactive. I may use different UV reactive color tubing for the GPU(s).

I currently use the CAM software to set my fan curves for most of my fans though I leave my H240-X controlled through the AI suite (ASUS).
I have 3 1/2 intake fans: two 120mm fans at the bottom and a single 140mm in the front (with a fan shroud adapter). The 1/2 fan is a single 80mm fan I placed in the unused drive bays circulating air in that area directly to the CPU (it helps a decent amount for cooling). I have my H240-x in the top of the case set to exhaust along with the rear fan. I also have a single 140mm fan on the internal mount to help the front 140mm fan some as it has to blow through the drive cages. There is no side fan as I changed out the side door to a full window door.

So how will an Aquaero benefit me with the set up I am planning?


----------



## Shoggy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jsutter71*
> 
> Where can I download Aquasuite 2016. I need the older version for my laptop which I use to zero calibrate by flow 400 when my system is shut down. On that note, how often does that device need to be calibrated. I did it a few months ago, and the other day when I recalibrated it had a speed difference of at least .5 L/M. Or is that within the fault tolerance?


You can select the aquasuite 2016 from the drop down menu if a compatible device is detected that has no license for 2017. If it has a liecense for 2017 you will not be able to download any older versions.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zeroibis*
> 
> OK cool, so the pump with the virtual flow sensor is able to stop and alarm in the event of coolant loss.


Not really. You would have to lose so much fluid that the pump will suck in air and starts to rattle. In this case you will get jumping flow rate values - incl. zero flow but it can also show some flow if the pump spins up again.


----------



## zeroibis

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> Not really. You would have to lose so much fluid that the pump will suck in air and starts to rattle. In this case you will get jumping flow rate values - incl. zero flow but it can also show some flow if the pump spins up again.


Ah, I see.

That being the case my best bet for leak detection would be a fill level sensor. I know that there is one for the Aquainlet that requires a pressure equalization membrane. In my install setup I would have a fill line going from the top of the res to the top of the case. In this configuration I would need to install the pressure equalization membrane as the cap for the fill line because I may fill the res completely with coolant and the line going to the fill port has the highest air pocket.

An alternative, if I want to avoid using a pressure equalization membrane, is to perhaps connect a Pressure sensor mps to the intake of the Aquainlet and then to a T fitting directly below the fill port.


----------



## InfoSeeker

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jsutter71*
> 
> Where can I download Aquasuite 2016. I need the older version for my laptop which I use to zero calibrate by flow 400 when my system is shut down. On that note, how often does that device need to be calibrated. I did it a few months ago, and the other day when I recalibrated it had a speed difference of at least .5 L/M. Or is that within the fault tolerance?


As to the zero calibration of an MPS Flow Sensor, the quote below is from the MPS Manual, section 12.2. "Sensor configuration flow sensor mps flow":
Quote:


> For accurate flow measurement, the zero flow value must be calibrated regularly,
> therefore "Automatic calibration of zero flow" is activated by default. If activated,
> the sensor will perform a calibration of the zero flow value when the pump is not
> running, for example if the PC is in standby and the sensor is still powered by USB
> connection. If you decide not to use automatic calibration, you will have to manually
> perform a calibration on a regular basis by clicking "Set current flow to zero"
> when the pump is not running.


The operative statement being "and the sensor is still powered by USB connection".


----------



## zeroibis

Anyone know if it would be possible to get one of the VISION oled displays to play a custom graphic? It would be really cool if we could have come custom B/W graphics play on them for some really cool effects even better if you could then time those graphics with rbg lighting on the blocks and in the case and man can you get some amazing mods out of that!


----------



## MadHatter5045

Ok, I just got back from holiday stuff and updated Aquasuite and the firmware on my 6XT and my Farbwerk. When the 6XT updated it rapidly cycled through all it's pages then was ready to go. After I shutdown the PC for the night I left the room to brush my teeth, when I came back the Aquaero's screen was lit up and rapidly cycling through its pages (even though the PC was off). I thought "That's weird. I'll look into it in the morning." I woke up three times during the night to this happening, and one more time as the PC booted up this morning. I can't seem to find anything amiss in Aquasuite that might have gotten saved, so is this a bug or did I somehow mess up the firmware update?


----------



## GTXJackBauer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MadHatter5045*
> 
> Ok, I just got back from holiday stuff and updated Aquasuite and the firmware on my 6XT and my Farbwerk. When the 6XT updated it rapidly cycled through all it's pages then was ready to go. After I shutdown the PC for the night I left the room to brush my teeth, when I came back the Aquaero's screen was lit up and rapidly cycling through its pages (even though the PC was off). I thought "That's weird. I'll look into it in the morning." I woke up three times during the night to this happening, and one more time as the PC booted up this morning. I can't seem to find anything amiss in Aquasuite that might have gotten saved, so is this a bug or did I somehow mess up the firmware update?


I had the same thing happen for the longest time. Had the screen replaced a few times from AC trying to figure out what was going on. They were using old methods to put together the screen in the past. We tried the newer design of adhesive and then checked and changed my sensitivity settings under Aquaero ---> User Interface ---> Key Settings. It's possible your update could have changed the settings on there. Check and see those settings remain the same from your previous non issue profile. I have since haven't had any issues with the "clicking and rapid shuffling through the pages" as I once did before but my keys don't always respond to my touch as intended.

Hope this helps.


----------



## MadHatter5045

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GTXJackBauer*
> 
> I had the same thing happen for the longest time. Had the screen replaced a few times from AC trying to figure out what was going on. They were using old methods to put together the screen in the past. We tried the newer design of adhesive and then checked and changed my sensitivity settings under Aquaero ---> User Interface ---> Key Settings. It's possible your update could have changed the settings on there. Check and see those settings remain the same from your previous non issue profile. I have since haven't had any issues with the "clicking and rapid shuffling through the pages" as I once did before but my keys don't always respond to my touch as intended.
> 
> Hope this helps.


Thanks, I'll give that a try when I get home then report back.


----------



## DMatthewStewart

I have a quick question regarding the virtual flow sensor on the Aquastream Ultimate. Ive asked Shoggy in another thread [that I just necro'd, sorry] but I figured Id ask you guys too.

Heres the deal: Aquastream Ultimate installed, configured, key for advanced controller package purchased (even though still in trial).

Activated key. Virtual Flow Sensor no longer reading (reading 0.0l/h)

Purchased virtual flow sensor package key, waiting for it.

Will activating ACP key override the trial period for Virtual Flow Sensor? If not, any idea how to get this reading again? I havent reset to factory defaults yet because I was hoping there was another way.

Any ideas why this would stop working?

Also, does bus address for the pump matter? Ive left it at default but in the very beginning I switched to the other one only because I had an alarm going off when first starting it up (it was the alarm I set for my old pump, duh. Forgot about it)

I should add that its connected to an Aquaero 5 LT. And both are connected to MB via USB and pump is connected via aquabus.


----------



## ruffhi

My PC is running fairly cool. Current Air / Water delta hovers around 1° or 2° C. All of my fans are spinning at around 400rpm (40%). Is there a way of having the fans OFF until the delta gets above (say) 4°C at which point they turn ON ... and then turning the fans back OFF when the delta gets below (say) 3°C?

I've been looking around and it seems that some sort of combination of alarms, relays, switches might work. Note that my pedestal fans draw power from the PSU (controlled by Aquaero) while my case fans get everything from the Aquaero. I am assuming that I will need different solutions for the pedestal and case fans.

It seems alarms are structured to capture bad things (high temps) ... can I trick the system and use them for good things too?


----------



## Cozmo85

Can you add a max cpu core speed as a data option for Aquasuite web. Right now you can only choose individual cores. It would be nice if there was one that just showed the speed of the fastest core.


----------



## GTXJackBauer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ruffhi*
> 
> My PC is running fairly cool. Current Air / Water delta hovers around 1° or 2° C. All of my fans are spinning at around 400rpm (40%). Is there a way of having the fans OFF until the delta gets above (say) 4°C at which point they turn ON ... and then turning the fans back OFF when the delta gets below (say) 3°C?
> 
> I've been looking around and it seems that some sort of combination of alarms, relays, switches might work. Note that my pedestal fans draw power from the PSU (controlled by Aquaero) while my case fans get everything from the Aquaero. I am assuming that I will need different solutions for the pedestal and case fans.
> 
> It seems alarms are structured to capture bad things (high temps) ... can I trick the system and use them for good things too?


Shouldn't be an issue with the use of a curve controller.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ruffhi*
> 
> My PC is running fairly cool. Current Air / Water delta hovers around 1° or 2° C. All of my fans are spinning at around 400rpm (40%). Is there a way of having the fans OFF until the delta gets above (say) 4°C at which point they turn ON ... and then turning the fans back OFF when the delta gets below (say) 3°C?
> 
> I've been looking around and it seems that some sort of combination of alarms, relays, switches might work. Note that my pedestal fans draw power from the PSU (controlled by Aquaero) while my case fans get everything from the Aquaero. I am assuming that I will need different solutions for the pedestal and case fans.
> 
> It seems alarms are structured to capture bad things (high temps) ... can I trick the system and use them for good things too?


depends on you, and what you want, but generally yes you easily can


----------



## ruffhi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GTXJackBauer*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Post from Ruff
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *ruffhi*
> 
> My PC is running fairly cool. Current Air / Water delta hovers around 1° or 2° C. All of my fans are spinning at around 400rpm (40%). Is there a way of having the fans OFF until the delta gets above (say) 4°C at which point they turn ON ... and then turning the fans back OFF when the delta gets below (say) 3°C?
> 
> I've been looking around and it seems that some sort of combination of alarms, relays, switches might work. Note that my pedestal fans draw power from the PSU (controlled by Aquaero) while my case fans get everything from the Aquaero. I am assuming that I will need different solutions for the pedestal and case fans.
> 
> It seems alarms are structured to capture bad things (high temps) ... can I trick the system and use them for good things too?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Shouldn't be an issue with the use of a curve controller.
Click to expand...

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> depends on you, and what you want, but generally yes you easily can


Thanks for replying.

Q for GTXJack: I can't seem to get my fans to stop with a curve controller. Anything below 40% PWM means they run at their minimum rpms ~400.

Q for MMan: Great to know. Any chance you can share _how_?


----------



## saintruski

So uuuuh. I wanted to see what my aquero 6 XT was capable of. I wanted to see what it could do so i plugged in my Delta AFB1212GHE-CF00. It kept turning on and off, so i put the screen on to see what was up and it was giving me over-current warnings...

Did i damage my aquero?


----------



## MadHatter5045

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GTXJackBauer*
> 
> I had the same thing happen for the longest time. Had the screen replaced a few times from AC trying to figure out what was going on. They were using old methods to put together the screen in the past. We tried the newer design of adhesive and then checked and changed my sensitivity settings under Aquaero ---> User Interface ---> Key Settings. It's possible your update could have changed the settings on there. Check and see those settings remain the same from your previous non issue profile. I have since haven't had any issues with the "clicking and rapid shuffling through the pages" as I once did before but my keys don't always respond to my touch as intended.
> 
> Hope this helps.


This seems to have solved my issue, thanks for the advice! +Rep


----------



## vonh

Hey there guys,

Just finished putting together a parts list for my water cooling system and since it includes an Aquaero I thought I'd post here. Could you guys review my parts list and make sure I have everything needed to make the Aquaero function as intended? I've done quite a bit of reading on these, but information is spread around all over the place and as you're all aware these are fairly complex pieces of equipment. I'll only list the relevant parts.

- 1 x Aquacomputer Aquaero 6 Pro
- 1 x Aquacomputer Aquaero 6 Pro Passive Heatsink
- 1 x Aquacomputer Aquaero 6 Pro Black Faceplate
- 1 x Aquacomputer Aqualis XT 150ml Reservoir w/ Nano Coating
- 1 x Aquacomputer RGB LED Lighting Module
- 1 x Aquacomputer D5 Pump w/ USB & Aquabus
- 2 x Noiseblocker NB-BlackSilentPro PK-PS
- 5 x Noiseblocker NB-BlackSilentPro PL-PS
- 3 x EK-Cable Y-Splitter 2-Fan PWM

I would like for the Aquaero to control everything without the use of software running on the PC, and without requiring any of the pumps or fans to be connected to the PC in any way besides the power supply. I'll be using four channels of fan control, so I ordered the Aquabus version of the D5 pump so I wouldn't have to use one of the fan channels to control the pump. Here is my planned channel configuration.

Channel 1 (PWM): 2 x 140mm fans
Channel 2 (PWM): 2 x 120mm fans
Channel 3 (PWM): 2 x 120mm fans
Channel 4 (PWM): 1 x 120mm fan
Channel 5 (Aquabus): 1 x D5 Pump

The reason for this layout is so I can set everything up to maintain a slight positive pressure environment in my case at all loads for dust control. I would also like to set it up so that the Aquaero can shut down my computer in the event of a cooling loop failure while I am away from home. The reservoir includes a fill sensor which I'm guessing can be used to notify of a leak in the loop, but the primary reason for the XT version of the reservoir was so I could include the LED module.

Have I missed anything, or should I have everything I need here to get up and running?

Finally, I see a plexiglass front display cover available on Aquatuning. Is this just a spare replacement part for users with scratched display glass or is this a separate add-on part?

Thanks for any assistance you can provide, I kind of jumped head-first into this considering it's my first every water cooling setup. Just want to make sure I'll be able to use my fancy new PC without having to wait another week for extra parts that I didn't order in the first place.


----------



## DMatthewStewart

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ruffhi*
> 
> My PC is running fairly cool. Current Air / Water delta hovers around 1° or 2° C. All of my fans are spinning at around 400rpm (40%). Is there a way of having the fans OFF until the delta gets above (say) 4°C at which point they turn ON ... and then turning the fans back OFF when the delta gets below (say) 3°C?
> 
> I've been looking around and it seems that some sort of combination of alarms, relays, switches might work. Note that my pedestal fans draw power from the PSU (controlled by Aquaero) while my case fans get everything from the Aquaero. I am assuming that I will need different solutions for the pedestal and case fans.
> 
> It seems alarms are structured to capture bad things (high temps) ... can I trick the system and use them for good things too?


Have you tried setting a setpoint controller or a two point controller with the fans and temps as the data sources? I had planned to set my bottom radiator fans to be off until a certain temp hits and then have them turn on. Of course they will shut off again when you fall below the threshold set. In aquasuite just go to Controllers, click the "+" in the top right and it will give you the option for either. If I were you I would create one of each first and see which one works better. If I get my set soon enough I'll post some shots of how its working. Im just a little caught up in a few other aquaero related tasks currently


----------



## ruffhi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DMatthewStewart*
> 
> Have you tried setting a setpoint controller or a two point controller with the fans and temps as the data sources? I had planned to set my bottom radiator fans to be off until a certain temp hits and then have them turn on. Of course they will shut off again when you fall below the threshold set. In aquasuite just go to Controllers, click the "+" in the top right and it will give you the option for either. If I were you I would create one of each first and see which one works better. If I get my set soon enough I'll post some shots of how its working. Im just a little caught up in a few other aquaero related tasks currently


There is always something to play with inside Aquaero / Aquasuite. I will try doing something with the case fans (everything from the Aquaero) before I look at the pedestal fans (power from PSU, controlled by Aquaero).

Thanks for posting.


----------



## ruffhi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DMatthewStewart*
> 
> Have you tried setting a setpoint controller or a two point controller with the fans and temps as the data sources? I had planned to set my bottom radiator fans to be off until a certain temp hits and then have them turn on. Of course they will shut off again when you fall below the threshold set. In aquasuite just go to Controllers, click the "+" in the top right and it will give you the option for either. If I were you I would create one of each first and see which one works better. If I get my set soon enough I'll post some shots of how its working. Im just a little caught up in a few other aquaero related tasks currently


I can turn the front and rear fans off and on with a two point controller. Setting the ON to 24°C and the OFF to 22°C ... means that they start in the OFF phase if the temp is below 24°C ... they turn ON if the temp gets over 24°C ... and stay on until the temp falls below 22°C. It worked like a dream. You also have to set the power range to where you want the fan to be (for me @40%) and let the controller flip between 0% and 100% (ie toggle).

It didn't work with the radiator fans as they get their power from the PSU ... so any interruption to the PWM signal means the fans rotate at 100%. I'll need a different method for the pedestal fans.

*Edit*: I think I need to set a alarm and use the temp to cut power to / from the pedastal. The Aquaero manual talks about 8 alarm levels.



Spoiler: Manual



*18. Alarm actions (aquasuite/device menu)*
_The aquaero 5/6 features eight alarm levels, which van[sic] be configured individually. Up to three actions can be configured for each alarm level. For alarm actions, speed signal output, alarm buzzer, relay, profile selection and USB keyboard commands are available._



This picture ...



Spoiler: Picture







... support / shows 8 alarm levels. My Aquasuite only has 4 levels. Was this changed recently?

Anyway ... here is what I think I need to do ...


get a Plug for relay connector, 3 contacts (article no. 53080) and plug it into the aquaero
run a wire from the power in my PSU to the relay plug
run a wire from the relay plug to the power hub in my pedestal
set up an alarm level (or multiple) that can toggle this relay to ON and OFF
find out which pins I should use for these wires



Spoiler: More Manual Stuff



_*4.12. Connector "Relay"*
Floating contact (changeover contact). May be used for emergency shutdown of the PC which requires additional accessories (art. no. 53047 and 53080, not included in delivery) or for free use. Maximum contact rating 1 A, 12 V.
Pin assignment aquaero 6:_

_Pin 1: normally connected_
_Pin 2: normally open_
_Pin 3: common connector_


----------



## ruffhi

I found this post by AllGamer talking about using the Aquaero relay ...



Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AllGamer*
> 
> Re: *Aquacomputer Aquaero 5/6 Connector 2pol. For Relay Output Model: AQ-53036*
> 
> So, we know it's Max 1Amp and 12V
> 
> How does this relay interact with the Aquaero?
> 
> I'm basically trying to find out, if when Activated via software, will the Aquaero keep the relay Always Connected, or does it only Sends a burst and closes again ?
> 
> Like is it a switch that remains Normally Close, when the software sends the ON signal,
> or the switch only does a On/Off , and remains Normally Open, until the next signal gets sent from the software.
> 
> I'm trying to match the other end to see if I need a Normally Open vs Normally Closed type of relay.
> 
> --- Edit ---
> 
> Depending if the Aquaero 2pin accessory relay is N.O. or N.C.
> 
> I could go with either this one
> 
> 
> or this one
> 
> 
> Well the 2nd relay with the 5 legs terminal, I can choose whichever terminal that matches the operation of the Aquaero 2pin accessory relay
> 
> Found another one that might work even better, it only needs a signal to change On/Off, it gets power from the PSU, and can control the Load (Peltier) on the heavy side of the circuit.
> So I can use the Aquaero 2pin accessory relay for the signaling, and let the circuit relay do its thing.






There are others discussing it back and forth with Shoggy chipping in and warning that the Aquaero relay can only carry 1amp.

I have 6 120mm fans in my pedestal that get their power from the PSU and are PWM controlled from the Aquaero. As I said above, I would like these fans stopped if the temperature delta is low. Cutting or modifying the PWM won't stop these fans (they will run at 100% if they don't get a PWM signal). To stop them, I think I need to interrupt their power feed.

Hence my interest in this relay / switch. I think that 6 fans is too many amps ... so I am looking to use the Aquaero relay to send a trigger to a different relay / switch (one that can handle higher amps) and cut / connect power to the fans.

Now ... as Shoggy said ...
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> The relay works as a switch and does not provide any power. So you have to get the power from somewhere else and the relay will just open or close the connection.


... if I end up with one of these modules ...



... then will this work ...

12v + GND from PSU to 'module power supply
12v from PSU into aquaero relay ... then aquaero relay to trigger 12v on module
GND from PSU to trigger GND on module
12v from PSU to COM on module
wire from NO connector to pedestal
GND from PSU to pedestal
So ... relay ON on Aquaero means signal to trigger on module and power to my pedestal
Or ... relay OFF on Aquaero means no signal to trigger on module and no power to my pedestal

If this is possible ... but I have my connectors around the wrong way (ie I should be running from the NC connector (or something else like that), then please tell me that 'yes - that will work' and I can order the stuff and experiment with my Aquaero and a single fan (initially with no module) until I have nutted out the correct order of things. There isn't any danger doing that way? If I have it wrong, then nothing happens?


----------



## ForNever

Yes, that will definitely work, I have done something similar. link to this board? That would be much nicer than the 30 amp automotive relay I'm using now.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ruffhi*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *GTXJackBauer*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Post from Ruff
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *ruffhi*
> 
> My PC is running fairly cool. Current Air / Water delta hovers around 1° or 2° C. All of my fans are spinning at around 400rpm (40%). Is there a way of having the fans OFF until the delta gets above (say) 4°C at which point they turn ON ... and then turning the fans back OFF when the delta gets below (say) 3°C?
> 
> I've been looking around and it seems that some sort of combination of alarms, relays, switches might work. Note that my pedestal fans draw power from the PSU (controlled by Aquaero) while my case fans get everything from the Aquaero. I am assuming that I will need different solutions for the pedestal and case fans.
> 
> It seems alarms are structured to capture bad things (high temps) ... can I trick the system and use them for good things too?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Shouldn't be an issue with the use of a curve controller.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> depends on you, and what you want, but generally yes you easily can
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Thanks for replying.
> 
> Q for GTXJack: I can't seem to get my fans to stop with a curve controller. Anything below 40% PWM means they run at their minimum rpms ~400.
> 
> Q for MMan: Great to know. Any chance you can share _how_?
Click to expand...

What do you want done?

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *saintruski*
> 
> So uuuuh. I wanted to see what my aquero 6 XT was capable of. I wanted to see what it could do so i plugged in my Delta AFB1212GHE-CF00. It kept turning on and off, so i put the screen on to see what was up and it was giving me over-current warnings...
> 
> Did i damage my aquero?


Maybe. But probably not. There is a programmable fuse (in Aquasuite) that you are tripping. Once tripped you have to shut the pc down to reset
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vonh*
> 
> Hey there guys,
> 
> Just finished putting together a parts list for my water cooling system and since it includes an Aquaero I thought I'd post here. Could you guys review my parts list and make sure I have everything needed to make the Aquaero function as intended? I've done quite a bit of reading on these, but information is spread around all over the place and as you're all aware these are fairly complex pieces of equipment. I'll only list the relevant parts.
> 
> - 1 x Aquacomputer Aquaero 6 Pro
> - 1 x Aquacomputer Aquaero 6 Pro Passive Heatsink
> - 1 x Aquacomputer Aquaero 6 Pro Black Faceplate
> - 1 x Aquacomputer Aqualis XT 150ml Reservoir w/ Nano Coating
> - 1 x Aquacomputer RGB LED Lighting Module
> - 1 x Aquacomputer D5 Pump w/ USB & Aquabus
> - 2 x Noiseblocker NB-BlackSilentPro PK-PS
> - 5 x Noiseblocker NB-BlackSilentPro PL-PS
> - 3 x EK-Cable Y-Splitter 2-Fan PWM
> 
> I would like for the Aquaero to control everything without the use of software running on the PC, and without requiring any of the pumps or fans to be connected to the PC in any way besides the power supply. I'll be using four channels of fan control, so I ordered the Aquabus version of the D5 pump so I wouldn't have to use one of the fan channels to control the pump. Here is my planned channel configuration.
> 
> Channel 1 (PWM): 2 x 140mm fans
> Channel 2 (PWM): 2 x 120mm fans
> Channel 3 (PWM): 2 x 120mm fans
> Channel 4 (PWM): 1 x 120mm fan
> Channel 5 (Aquabus): 1 x D5 Pump
> 
> The reason for this layout is so I can set everything up to maintain a slight positive pressure environment in my case at all loads for dust control. I would also like to set it up so that the Aquaero can shut down my computer in the event of a cooling loop failure while I am away from home. The reservoir includes a fill sensor which I'm guessing can be used to notify of a leak in the loop, but the primary reason for the XT version of the reservoir was so I could include the LED module.
> 
> Have I missed anything, or should I have everything I need here to get up and running?
> 
> Finally, I see a plexiglass front display cover available on Aquatuning. Is this just a spare replacement part for users with scratched display glass or is this a separate add-on part?
> 
> Thanks for any assistance you can provide, I kind of jumped head-first into this considering it's my first every water cooling setup. Just want to make sure I'll be able to use my fancy new PC without having to wait another week for extra parts that I didn't order in the first place.


I would recommend installing Aquasuite to set everything up. You can do it from the aquaero but it will be a pain
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ruffhi*
> 
> I found this post by AllGamer talking about using the Aquaero relay ...
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *AllGamer*
> 
> Re: *Aquacomputer Aquaero 5/6 Connector 2pol. For Relay Output Model: AQ-53036*
> 
> So, we know it's Max 1Amp and 12V
> 
> How does this relay interact with the Aquaero?
> 
> I'm basically trying to find out, if when Activated via software, will the Aquaero keep the relay Always Connected, or does it only Sends a burst and closes again ?
> 
> Like is it a switch that remains Normally Close, when the software sends the ON signal,
> or the switch only does a On/Off , and remains Normally Open, until the next signal gets sent from the software.
> 
> I'm trying to match the other end to see if I need a Normally Open vs Normally Closed type of relay.
> 
> --- Edit ---
> 
> Depending if the Aquaero 2pin accessory relay is N.O. or N.C.
> 
> I could go with either this one
> 
> 
> or this one
> 
> 
> Well the 2nd relay with the 5 legs terminal, I can choose whichever terminal that matches the operation of the Aquaero 2pin accessory relay
> 
> Found another one that might work even better, it only needs a signal to change On/Off, it gets power from the PSU, and can control the Load (Peltier) on the heavy side of the circuit.
> So I can use the Aquaero 2pin accessory relay for the signaling, and let the circuit relay do its thing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There are others discussing it back and forth with Shoggy chipping in and warning that the Aquaero relay can only carry 1amp.
> 
> I have 6 120mm fans in my pedestal that get their power from the PSU and are PWM controlled from the Aquaero. As I said above, I would like these fans stopped if the temperature delta is low. Cutting or modifying the PWM won't stop these fans (they will run at 100% if they don't get a PWM signal). To stop them, I think I need to interrupt their power feed.
> 
> Hence my interest in this relay / switch. I think that 6 fans is too many amps ... so I am looking to use the Aquaero relay to send a trigger to a different relay / switch (one that can handle higher amps) and cut / connect power to the fans.
> 
> Now ... as Shoggy said ...
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> The relay works as a switch and does not provide any power. So you have to get the power from somewhere else and the relay will just open or close the connection.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> ... if I end up with one of these modules ...
> 
> 
> 
> ... then will this work ...
> 
> 12v + GND from PSU to 'module power supply
> 12v from PSU into aquaero relay ... then aquaero relay to trigger 12v on module
> GND from PSU to trigger GND on module
> 12v from PSU to COM on module
> wire from NO connector to pedestal
> GND from PSU to pedestal
> So ... relay ON on Aquaero means signal to trigger on module and power to my pedestal
> Or ... relay OFF on Aquaero means no signal to trigger on module and no power to my pedestal
> 
> If this is possible ... but I have my connectors around the wrong way (ie I should be running from the NC connector (or something else like that), then please tell me that 'yes - that will work' and I can order the stuff and experiment with my Aquaero and a single fan (initially with no module) until I have nutted out the correct order of things. There isn't any danger doing that way? If I have it wrong, then nothing happens?
Click to expand...

Just buy an automotive relay of 30 out 40a

https://www.google.com/search?q=12vdc+relay+30a&oq=12vdc+relay+30a&gs_l=mobile-heirloom-serp.3..0i22i30l2.12607.13724.0.14703.4.4.0.0.0.0.401.1204.2-2j1j1.4.0....0...1c.1.34.mobile-heirloom-serp..0.4.1203.ihM9DcFfiig


----------



## InfoSeeker

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vonh*
> 
> Hey there guys,
> 
> Just finished putting together a parts list for my water cooling system and since it includes an Aquaero I thought I'd post here. Could you guys review my parts list and make sure I have everything needed to make the Aquaero function as intended? I've done quite a bit of reading on these, but information is spread around all over the place and as you're all aware these are fairly complex pieces of equipment. I'll only list the relevant parts.
> 
> - 1 x Aquacomputer Aquaero 6 Pro
> - 1 x Aquacomputer Aquaero 6 Pro Passive Heatsink
> - 1 x Aquacomputer Aquaero 6 Pro Black Faceplate
> - 1 x Aquacomputer Aqualis XT 150ml Reservoir w/ Nano Coating
> - 1 x Aquacomputer RGB LED Lighting Module
> - 1 x Aquacomputer D5 Pump w/ USB & Aquabus
> - 2 x Noiseblocker NB-BlackSilentPro PK-PS
> - 5 x Noiseblocker NB-BlackSilentPro PL-PS
> - 3 x EK-Cable Y-Splitter 2-Fan PWM
> 
> I would like for the Aquaero to control everything without the use of software running on the PC, and without requiring any of the pumps or fans to be connected to the PC in any way besides the power supply. I'll be using four channels of fan control, so I ordered the Aquabus version of the D5 pump so I wouldn't have to use one of the fan channels to control the pump. Here is my planned channel configuration.
> 
> Channel 1 (PWM): 2 x 140mm fans
> Channel 2 (PWM): 2 x 120mm fans
> Channel 3 (PWM): 2 x 120mm fans
> Channel 4 (PWM): 1 x 120mm fan
> Channel 5 (Aquabus): 1 x D5 Pump
> 
> The reason for this layout is so I can set everything up to maintain a slight positive pressure environment in my case at all loads for dust control. I would also like to set it up so that the Aquaero can shut down my computer in the event of a cooling loop failure while I am away from home. The reservoir includes a fill sensor which I'm guessing can be used to notify of a leak in the loop, but the primary reason for the XT version of the reservoir was so I could include the LED module.
> 
> Have I missed anything, or should I have everything I need here to get up and running?
> 
> Finally, I see a plexiglass front display cover available on Aquatuning. Is this just a spare replacement part for users with scratched display glass or is this a separate add-on part?
> 
> Thanks for any assistance you can provide, I kind of jumped head-first into this considering it's my first every water cooling setup. Just want to make sure I'll be able to use my fancy new PC without having to wait another week for extra parts that I didn't order in the first place.


Firstly, does your desire to not have any of the components connect to the mobo, stem from a lack of USB ports on the mobo?

Your parts list is fairly comprehensive, but you may consider having a flow sensor in the loop to indicate loss of coolant motion, which can stem from a lack of coolant OR a pump failure. The flow sensor I linked can be cabled to the aquaero's flow port and does not require a USB connection to configure or implement. These aquacomputer mechanical flow sensors have been known to have a slight ticking sound during operation, but your desire for no connection to mobo rules out the MPS flow sensors.

To have the aquaero shutdown the computer for a cooling loop failure, connect a fan cable between the aquaero RPM signal and the mobo CPU fan header. Then you would set an alarm for the RPM port, which normally sends a fake RPM signal, to fall to zero, and if properly set in the bios, causes the mobo to shut itself down.

As Mega said, you will really want to use aquasuite, minimally, to configure the loop, but after that you can let the aquaero run independently. If you do not keep a USB connection to the aquaero, you may want to include the Real Time Clock expansion module.

Programming the aquaero using the attached face plate and it's binary menu will be tedious and time consuming, but can be done. Alternately, if you are not able to connect the aquaero to the mobo, you may be able to connect it to a laptop by USB, and run aquasuite on the laptop to configure the aquaero.

The level sensor in the aqualis reservoir requires calibration using USB, but can also be done on a laptop, as long as you can access the USB port on the aqualis for the connection.

If with "plexiglass front display cover" you meant the Acrylic glass display cover for aquaero 5/6 PRO, it is a replacement part that has a slight grey tint to it for aesthetic purposes.


----------



## ruffhi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ruffhi*
> 
> The Aquaero manual talks about 8 alarm levels.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Manual
> 
> 
> 
> *18. Alarm actions (aquasuite/device menu)*
> _The aquaero 5/6 features eight alarm levels, which van[sic] be configured individually. Up to three actions can be configured for each alarm level. For alarm actions, speed signal output, alarm buzzer, relay, profile selection and USB keyboard commands are available._
> 
> 
> 
> This picture ...
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Picture
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ... support / shows 8 alarm levels. My Aquasuite only has 4 levels. Was this changed recently?


Bump re the question about the number of alarm levels.


----------



## vonh

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *InfoSeeker*
> 
> Firstly, does your desire to not have any of the components connect to the mobo, stem from a lack of USB ports on the mobo?
> 
> Your parts list is fairly comprehensive, but you may consider having a flow sensor in the loop to indicate loss of coolant motion, which can stem from a lack of coolant OR a pump failure. The flow sensor I linked can be cabled to the aquaero's flow port and does not require a USB connection to configure or implement. These aquacomputer mechanical flow sensors have been known to have a slight ticking sound during operation, but your desire for no connection to mobo rules out the MPS flow sensors.
> 
> To have the aquaero shutdown the computer for a cooling loop failure, connect a fan cable between the aquaero RPM signal and the mobo CPU fan header. Then you would set an alarm for the RPM port, which normally sends a fake RPM signal, to fall to zero, and if properly set in the bios, causes the mobo to shut itself down.
> 
> As Mega said, you will really want to use aquasuite, minimally, to configure the loop, but after that you can let the aquaero run independently. If you do not keep a USB connection to the aquaero, you may want to include the Real Time Clock expansion module.
> 
> Programming the aquaero using the attached face plate and it's binary menu will be tedious and time consuming, but can be done. Alternately, if you are not able to connect the aquaero to the mobo, you may be able to connect it to a laptop by USB, and run aquasuite on the laptop to configure the aquaero.
> 
> The level sensor in the aqualis reservoir requires calibration using USB, but can also be done on a laptop, as long as you can access the USB port on the aqualis for the connection.
> 
> If with "plexiglass front display cover" you meant the Acrylic glass display cover for aquaero 5/6 PRO, it is a replacement part that has a slight grey tint to it for aesthetic purposes.


Thank you for your detailed response. My desire to minimize connections to my motherboard stems from a desire to have this system be as hardware - independent as possible to guarantee compatibility with future builds, as I'm really looking at the purchase of all this water cooling equipment as an investment and I'm counting on quite a few of these parts outliving the build they'll originally be installed into.

I will almost certainly connect via USB to perform all my initial configuration through aquasuite rather than doing it all through the three buttons on the front of the Aquaero, as I'm guessing it won't be the simplest procedure. Two big factors in my decision making process here were dust control and noise, and to that effect it will take some data collection, tweaking, and testing to get everything working optimally. I'm sure I'll be back with more questions as I try to configure 4 fan groups and a pump to maintain the appropriate positive pressure environment with minimum noise for my target temperatures at all loads. Aquatuning is showing my order as shipped, so the "fun" should begin in short order.

As of this morning, I've placed what should be the final order with Performance PCs for everything to get this system running. Following your advice I've also included one of the flow meters you linked, as well as an inline temperature sensor for better monitoring of coolant temps. Thank you for the information on setting up an automated shutdown for cooling loop failure, that will provide some peace of mind for the times the PC will be running unattended. On that note, what would be the application of the ATX power connector that's available here?

Thanks again to everyone in the thread for the assistance.


----------



## wa3pnt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *InfoSeeker*
> 
> As Mega said, you will really want to use aquasuite, minimally, to configure the loop, but after that you can let the aquaero run independently. If you do not keep a USB connection to the aquaero, you may want to include the Real Time Clock expansion module.


Just a note about the Aquaero Real TIme Clock Module.

The RTC will allow the Aquaero to display the correct time *as long as the Aquaero has standby power*

If you shut the computer completely down (either by unplugging the power supply, or turning the power supply off with the switch on the power supply) the Aquaero will loose the correct time and when standby power is restored it will display the factory default time (mine displays 1700 1 January 2013).

The current correct time is loaded to the Aquaero when the computer is powered on *AND* there is a USB connection between the Aquaero and the motherboard.

The RTC Module does not perform the same as the RTC in a motherboard that retains the correct time when power is removed.

RodeoGeorge


----------



## R-o-D

First I would like to say as a LONG time lurker here, almost 4 years at this point, I was very saddened to read about Namrons passing. His efforts have been much appreciated by me.

Now on to the question, I just purchased my aquero. My understanding is that it will be eligible for aquasuite 17 and 18 licenses, is that correct?

Im sure more will come as i explore this tools capabilities


----------



## Shoggy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cozmo85*
> 
> Can you add a max cpu core speed as a data option for Aquasuite web. Right now you can only choose individual cores. It would be nice if there was one that just showed the speed of the fastest core.


Only possible with a work around. You could set up sofware sensors and then put them into virtual sensors where you select to pick up the highest value. These virtual sensors can be used in further virtual sensors so depending on the number of cores you will have to create a bunch of software and virtual sensors








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wa3pnt*
> 
> Just a note about the Aquaero Real TIme Clock Module.
> 
> The RTC will allow the Aquaero to display the correct time *as long as the Aquaero has standby power*
> 
> If you shut the computer completely down (either by unplugging the power supply, or turning the power supply off with the switch on the power supply) the Aquaero will loose the correct time and when standby power is restored it will display the factory default time (mine displays 1700 1 January 2013).


This is not correct! Of course the RTC module keeps the time and date alive when the aquaero has no power at all - that is its main purpose. As soon as the power is available again, the aquaero reads back the current time and date from the RTC module. If that does not work for your, then there must be something wrong with your module.


----------



## Mega Man

Or battery is dead


----------



## BelowAverageIQ

Hi Crew,

Have an Aquaero 6XT. Latest software. 2017-1.

Recently changed my system fans. Now using Corsair ML 120Pro PWM fans.

3 fans per channel.

I have noticed that the display and software show the RPM of the fans constantly changing, from set RPM to Zero and back again. The actual speed of the fan does not change though, just the reported RPM.

Any ideas?

Cheers


----------



## Shoggy

Make sure that only one fan reports the rpm to the fan header. A lot of cheap splitter cards and also some adapter cables merge all signals and this does not work of course.


----------



## InfoSeeker

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ruffhi*
> 
> Bump re the question about the number of alarm levels.


Yes, I also see 4 levels with 2016-5.3,


And the manual has been updated:
Quote:


> *18. Alarm actions (aquasuite/device menu)*
> The aquaero 5/6 features four alarm levels, which can be configured individually.
> Up to three actions can be configured for each alarm level. For alarm
> actions, speed signal output, alarm buzzer, relay, profile selection and USB
> keyboard commands are available.


----------



## ruffhi

Sigh ... I guess 8 was a little bit of over kill. Not that the levels have to be related. Thx for the post.


----------



## jagdtigger

A little heads up:
https://forum.aquacomputer.de/weitere-foren/english-forum/p1425821-new-aquasuite-2017-licensing-system/
(Sorry if it was posted before...)


----------



## BelowAverageIQ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> Make sure that only one fan reports the rpm to the fan header. A lot of cheap splitter cards and also some adapter cables merge all signals and this does not work of course.


Thanks Shoggy. Now that you mention it, I do recall vaguely seeing that before.

I am using adapter cables 3 x 4 pin. Supposedly good quality.

Now to work out which is the RPM pin on two of the plugs and remove it.....................


----------



## wa3pnt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> This is not correct! Of course the RTC module keeps the time and date alive when the aquaero has no power at all - that is its main purpose. As soon as the power is available again, the aquaero reads back the current time and date from the RTC module. If that does not work for your, then there must be something wrong with your module.


Based on Shoggy's post above, I obviously have a defective RTC Module.

I retested it's operation today as follows:

1. Removed Aquaero and replaced the RTC Module battery with a new battery, making sure that the spring loaded retaining clip was contacting the + battery surface.
2. Turned on the Power Supply (to apply standby power to the Aquaero) and observed a time and date of 1700 12/4/2014 (my Time Zone of -7 is retained by the Aquaero, hence 1700 versus 0000)
3. Set the date and time using the Aquaero front panel. The Aquaero time increments correctly.
4. Turned off the Power Supply (with the PS Switch). Aquaero goes blank as expected.
5. Turned on the PS and the Aquaero displays a time and date of 1700 12/4/2014 (did not retain correct time)
6. Booted the computer, and the correct time was transferred to the Aquaero.

So apparently I have a defective RTC Module, as when "all" power is removed and then re-applied the Aquaero reverts to the time it would display upon first installation.

Not a big deal for me, as I always have the Aquaero connected to the motherboard via USB.

RodeoGeorge


----------



## wa3pnt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *golfleep*
> 
> I have the same issue as you, turning off standby power resets the aquaero clock, even with the RTC module installed. I was under the impression that the RTC module would allow the aquaero to keep time even when disconnected from power. But.... after reading the manual (like, who does that
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ), it says, down at the bottom:
> 
> NOTICE: Communication between the aquaero controller and the RTC module requires 12 V and 5 V power supply to the aquaero! Therefore, communication is not possible during standby!
> 
> which I interpreted as meaning the RTC is only useful in keeping time when there is not a continuous USB connection, but doesn't allow the aquaero to keep time when power is completely removed, which negates the whole purpose of the RTC to me. If the aquaero is connected to 12v and 5V, shouldn't it be able to keep time on it's own even without a USB connection and the RTC?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ranma13*
> 
> That's the thing, I'm realizing now that it's not altogether clear what the RTC module actually does. The item description says:
> But it doesn't explain what "especially interesting" means. By "battery buffered real time clock", I'd imagine that most of us expects this to be a like a CMOS battery in that it keeps the time even when there's no power connected. But then there's that second part of the description:
> Which makes it really confusing what it actually does.


I knew that I had read that others also found that the RTC did not permit the Aquaero to retain the time when power was removed.

I found those posts, and they are quoted above.

RodeoGeorge


----------



## Ranma13

In my case, I noticed that the negative lead for the battery on the RTC clock was not soldered. I fixed it by soldering it and verified that the RTC chip is connected to the 4 pins that connects to the Aquaero, and was also receiving power from the battery. I also verified that the battery was a solid 1.5V. Still no dice, however. I think there may be something up with the RTC itself, it can't be that all of us have defective modules, can it?


----------



## golfleep

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ranma13*
> 
> In my case, I noticed that the negative lead for the battery on the RTC clock was not soldered. I fixed it by soldering it and verified that the RTC chip is connected to the 4 pins that connects to the Aquaero, and was also receiving power from the battery. I also verified that the battery was a solid 1.5V. Still no dice, however. I think there may be something up with the RTC itself, it can't be that all of us have defective modules, can it?


Yeah, my RTC module still serves no discernable purpose other than being a aquabus splitter







. Battery checks out fine, as well as all the connections. Aquaero loses the clock settings the minute I turn off standby power (or unplug the USB, which provides the standby power) - and more importantly, does not seem to get the time settings back until I boot up the computer (meaning just turning back on standby power does not seem to allow the clock to set again)


----------



## BelowAverageIQ

I removed the rpm pin from 2 out of the 3 plugs on the adapter cables. It worked. Stable rpm showing









Each cable is plugged into a separate channel, so each channel has 3 fans.

Is it normal to see a 20-30 rpm difference between channels, when all the fans are new and the same type?

Cheers.


----------



## Mega Man

Yes no way to make the fans run. At the same rpm

Physically impossible


----------



## R-o-D

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BelowAverageIQ*
> 
> I removed the rpm pin from 2 out of the 3 plugs on the adapter cables. It worked. Stable rpm showing
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Each cable is plugged into a separate channel, so each channel has 3 fans.
> 
> Is it normal to see a 20-30 rpm difference between channels, when all the fans are new and the same type?
> 
> Cheers.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> Yes no way to make the fans run. At the same rpm
> 
> Physically impossible


^^this...
Plus,
You are also using Corsair fans and with their external pullup issues


----------



## Shoggy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wa3pnt*
> 
> I retested it's operation today as follows:
> 
> (...)


You can not test it that way. As already mentioned the aquabus requires 12V to work. It also takes a while before the time/date will be written to the RTC module, so you should just wait a bit. When you power off the aquaero and power it on again the time/date will be read from the RTC module without a delay. You could check this when you remove the USB cable after power down the only way for the aquaero to get the time/date is the RTC module.

If it still does not work you should take a closer look at your RTC module. Some modules of the first batch (years ago) had one part mounted in reverse so the RTC module can not work:



The photo shows a faulty module. The part must be mounted into the other direction with that little dot pointing to the edge of the board. If yours is wrong and you have some basic soldering skills you can just fix that yourself; otherwise send me a PM.


----------



## toolmaker03

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> .
> 
> If it still does not work you should take a closer look at your RTC module. Some modules of the first batch (years ago) had one part mounted in reverse so the RTC module can not work:
> 
> 
> 
> The photo shows a faulty module. The part must be mounted into the other direction with that little dot pointing to the edge of the board..


wow, I would have never guessed that something like this could get by the test station in the factory.
I know they don't test every thing, but I would get 2 to 3 of every product produced each day.
now, I was working on satellites, so the amount of products we produced was a lot lower.


----------



## Cozmo85

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *toolmaker03*
> 
> now, I was working on satellites, so the amount of products we produced was a lot lower.


Also harder to return if there is a problem after the fact lol


----------



## ruffhi

I decided to go full metric with my output (°C, rpm, pwm, volts, etc) ... and that includes flow. I've swapped from gpm to lph with my target flow rate being about 225 lph (1gpm for those gpm folks).

Every flow output now says lph ... except the flow rate on the front screen of my Aquaero ... it still reports gpm. How do I change that?


----------



## apw63

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ruffhi*
> 
> I decided to go full metric with my output (°C, rpm, pwm, volts, etc) ... and that includes flow. I've swapped from gpm to lph with my target flow rate being about 225 lph (1gpm for those gpm folks).
> 
> Every flow output now says lph ... except the flow rate on the front screen of my Aquaero ... it still reports gpm. How do I change that?


Is it in the very last tab in aquasuite. The aquasuite tab under setting ,units.


----------



## ruffhi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *apw63*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *ruffhi*
> 
> I decided to go full metric with my output (°C, rpm, pwm, volts, etc) ... and that includes flow. I've swapped from gpm to lph with my target flow rate being about 225 lph (1gpm for those gpm folks).
> 
> Every flow output now says lph ... except the flow rate on the front screen of my Aquaero ... it still reports gpm. How do I change that?
> 
> 
> 
> Is it in the very last tab in aquasuite. The aquasuite tab under setting ,units.
Click to expand...

Thx for the post apw63.

This one?


Spoiler: Aquasuite Settings Screen















If so ... yeah ... I've changed that to litres per hour. Everywhere _within_ aquasuite it now says lph. But ... on the _little screen of the aquaero_ ... it says gpm.


----------



## Mega Man

you are looking under "aquasuite" ( left side tab)

you ( in your example ) want to look under the " aquaero Liquorice allsorts" tab under user interface ( i think )

edit i just confirmed it on mine that is what you want, as well


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## ruffhi

Arrr ... excellent. That looks like it.


Spoiler: Screen


----------



## ruffhi

Just closing the loop on my initial 'Control the PWM Fans that use an independent power source with the Aquacomputer relay ... copy of the post in my build log.

So ... I got out my spare PSU, connected a 2-wire fan power thingo to the molex connector and connected up a PWM fan ... turned it on ... and the fan spun up to max.

Next, I created a fan cable using 4-pin PWM connectors but only including 2 wires (power, ground) that has the Aquacomputer Plug 3pol. for Relay Output (for Aquaero 5 and 6) (53080) plugged into the power wire (the red one).










Hooking up the fan connectors and plugging it all in gave me this ...










So ... I have a fan connected to a power source that has a switch on the power wire (red). Now to test it on the computer with the relay plug attached to the Aquaero hardware and some appropriate alarms set up ...

Alarm #1 ... ambient temp (right) exceeds 0°C --> Normal Operation
Alarm #2 ... ambient temp (right) exceeds 21°C --> Pedestal Fans ON










So ... what does 'Normal Operation' and 'Pedestal Fans ON' look like ... the only condition I added was the RELAY condition (OFF for Normal and ON for Ped Fans ON) ...










So ... the big question ... did it work?

Well ... the temp sensor for Ambient Air (Right) is located in the right section of the pedestal and you can reach it. So ... if you put your finger on it ... its temp reading goes up. My test fan was initial off and once the temp sensor reported over 21°C ... the fan started spinning. Taking my finger off the temp sensor ... the temp reading dropped and the fan stopped once it had fallen below 21°C.

*Success!*


----------



## ruffhi

Following that success ... now to see if I am heading in the right direction ...

As I understand it, I need to provide power to the fans via a switch ... and that switch is 'controlled' by the Aquaero switch.

MegaMan said 'just get an auto switch' and provided a link.

Some googling around led me to this switch (amazon) that included this pin out diagram ...



I also found this page that includes some directions for how to connect them ..

Quote:


> For those available that don't understand how a relay works, here is a brief explanation from the pins.
> 
> Pins 85 & 86 - are utilized to turn 'on' the relay. You need a positive (+) and negative (-) source of energy to show around the relay.
> Pin 85 - is usually negative (-)
> Pin 86 - is usually positive (+)
> Pin 30 - is either a (+) or (-) source that feeds Pin 87 or Pin 87a
> Pin 87 - once the relay is 'on': pin 30 and Pin 87 are connected
> Pin 87a - once the relay is 'off': pin 30 and Pin 87a are connected


(*Note:* I am not planning on using the cable from Pin 87a)

So ... if I understand the above ... this is what I need to do ...


connect the fan hub power to switch pin 87

connect the fan hub ground to a ground cable coming from pin 85 ... and then connect them both to the ground on the PSU

connect switch pin 30 to the 12v power connection from the PSU

connect switch pin 86 to the Aquaero relay switch











So ... the Aquaero relay switch will send ON / OFF signals to the 30A relay switch and it will let the power from the PSU through (if ON) or not (if OFF) to the fan hub.

So ... do I have this right?

Edit: I found this video that talks about these ... I think I do have it right. Time to pull the trigger on my Amazon cart







.


----------



## Trestles126

I have a aquacomputer aquaero 6xt and a flow 400 flow sensor. Do I need to hook up just the flow 3 pin sensor to get a flow rate and alarm function. I see the usb plug as well but don't understand where it would go seeing that the 6xt has the USB going to motherboard already


----------



## InfoSeeker

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Trestles126*
> 
> I have a aquacomputer aquaero 6xt and a flow 400 flow sensor. Do I need to hook up just the flow 3 pin sensor to get a flow rate and alarm function. I see the usb plug as well but don't understand where it would go seeing that the 6xt has the USB going to motherboard already


No.

The USB connection on the MPS Flow 400 is required for initial setup/calibration using aquasuite, and needs be connected to the mobo.
Once the setup/calibration has been accomplished, the USB connection may be removed, though I generally leave mine in place in case I need to examine/adjust the sensor in the future.

To use the flow sensor output in the aquaero, you should have the aquabus port on the MPS Flow 400 connected to the aquabus>High port on the aquaero... use a 4 pin cable for this.

The 3-pin connector labeled "flow" on the aquaero is for a mechanical flow sensor and cannot be used by the MPS Flow 400.

The aquaero USB should be connected to the mobo full time for easiest and best results.

Depending on your pump(s) type, you may need connection(s) to the USB/aquabus also.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ruffhi*
> 
> Following that success ... now to see if I am heading in the right direction ...
> 
> As I understand it, I need to provide power to the fans via a switch ... and that switch is 'controlled' by the Aquaero switch.
> 
> MegaMan said 'just get an auto switch' and provided a link.
> 
> Some googling around led me to this switch (amazon) that included this pin out diagram ...
> 
> 
> 
> I also found this page that includes some directions for how to connect them ..
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> For those available that don't understand how a relay works, here is a brief explanation from the pins.
> 
> Pins 85 & 86 - are utilized to turn 'on' the relay. You need a positive (+) and negative (-) source of energy to show around the relay.
> Pin 85 - is usually negative (-)
> Pin 86 - is usually positive (+)
> Pin 30 - is either a (+) or (-) source that feeds Pin 87 or Pin 87a
> Pin 87 - once the relay is 'on': pin 30 and Pin 87 are connected
> Pin 87a - once the relay is 'off': pin 30 and Pin 87a are connected
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (*Note:* I am not planning on using the cable from Pin 87a)
> 
> So ... if I understand the above ... this is what I need to do ...
> 
> 
> connect the fan hub power to switch pin 87
> 
> connect the fan hub ground to a ground cable coming from pin 85 ... and then connect them both to the ground on the PSU
> 
> connect switch pin 30 to the 12v power connection from the PSU
> 
> connect switch pin 86 to the Aquaero relay switch
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So ... the Aquaero relay switch will send ON / OFF signals to the 30A relay switch and it will let the power from the PSU through (if ON) or not (if OFF) to the fan hub.
> 
> So ... do I have this right?
> 
> Edit: I found this video that talks about these ... I think I do have it right. Time to pull the trigger on my Amazon cart
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
Click to expand...

You are correct. If i said switch I ment relay and my phone failed me, sorry (auto[motive] relay)


----------



## ruffhi

thx MegaMan ... you said relay ... I read switch. I don't know enough to know the difference. Part ordered ... but won't be going in until I do a major strip down as it will live in the depths of the pedestal.


----------



## Mega Man

Np I just try to be very specific.

A relay is a switch operated by electricity ( a electromagnet). You understand more then most about them already


----------



## Dagamus NM

Downloaded the new aquasuite and installed it. I chose the option to save settings but now all my fans are at 100% and I have no idea how to change the fan settings in the new software. Lame


----------



## jagdtigger

But why? The layout didnt changed just the skin somewhat...


----------



## Dagamus NM

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jagdtigger*
> 
> But why? The layout didnt changed just the skin somewhat...


When I click on the aquaero tab I only see setting. No fans, pumps, controllers, or anything else. I see the quick little ok tab but that doesn't appear to let me do anything. I turned my computer off. Maybe it just needs a full restart. I will see after I turn the computer back on after the game.


----------



## GTXJackBauer

Depending on which version of AQ you've installed, you might need a firmware update on certain devices.

Also, it should save your previous profile and allow you to reinstate it. Just restart AQ prior to doing so once you've done the updates all around.


----------



## smicha

Since I installed Aquasuite 2017 whenever I reboot my computer it say aqauero service is not running. How can I solve it?


----------



## InfoSeeker

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *smicha*
> 
> Since I installed Aquasuite 2017 whenever I reboot my computer it say aqauero service is not running. How can I solve it?


Start aquacomputer Windows service?
Should only need to be done once.


----------



## nyck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *smicha*
> 
> Since I installed Aquasuite 2017 whenever I reboot my computer it say aqauero service is not running. How can I solve it?


what is the aquasuite version that you have? 2017-1.3?


----------



## Kimir

Start it with Admin right.
Wait what, it's already 2017-1.3?


----------



## smicha

2017-1.2


----------



## nyck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kimir*
> 
> Start it with Admin right.
> Wait what, it's already 2017-1.3?


if I'm not wrong, yes

I'm not sure and I'm not home to check
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *smicha*
> 
> 2017-1.2


I Had the same problem with the old aquasuite version, and soggy give me a new "aquacomputer service exe file" and now aquasuite start auttomatically.
i have this file but I do not know if i am authorized to give you.

try the last aquasuite and if don't work ask for help soggy.


----------



## Kimir

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nyck*
> 
> if I'm not wrong, yes
> 
> I'm not sure and I'm not home to check


I just checked here at work, indeed, the installer shows 2017-1.3. Good to know, not sure of the improvement/fixes over 1.2, I haven't looked at that yet (I suppose there is a version log that show that on AC forum).


----------



## nyck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nyck*
> 
> if I'm not wrong, yes
> 
> I'm not sure and I'm not home to check
> I Had the same problem with the old aquasuite version, and soggy give me a new "aquacomputer service exe file" and now aquasuite start auttomatically.
> i have this file but I do not know if i am authorized to give you.
> 
> try the last aquasuite and if don't work ask for help soggy.


sorry, the correct name is Shoggy


----------



## smicha

2017.1.3 works great.


----------



## Jflisk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ruffhi*
> 
> Following that success ... now to see if I am heading in the right direction ...
> 
> As I understand it, I need to provide power to the fans via a switch ... and that switch is 'controlled' by the Aquaero switch.
> 
> MegaMan said 'just get an auto switch' and provided a link.
> 
> Some googling around led me to this switch (amazon) that included this pin out diagram ...
> 
> 
> 
> I also found this page that includes some directions for how to connect them ..
> (*Note:* I am not planning on using the cable from Pin 87a)
> 
> So ... if I understand the above ... this is what I need to do ...
> 
> 
> connect the fan hub power to switch pin 87
> 
> connect the fan hub ground to a ground cable coming from pin 85 ... and then connect them both to the ground on the PSU
> 
> connect switch pin 30 to the 12v power connection from the PSU
> 
> connect switch pin 86 to the Aquaero relay switch
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So ... the Aquaero relay switch will send ON / OFF signals to the 30A relay switch and it will let the power from the PSU through (if ON) or not (if OFF) to the fan hub.
> 
> So ... do I have this right?
> 
> Edit: I found this video that talks about these ... I think I do have it right. Time to pull the trigger on my Amazon cart
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> You are correct. If i said switch I ment relay and my phone failed me, sorry (auto[motive] relay)


Mega -What about flyback voltage thru the relay . See here
http://electronics.stackexchange.com/questions/56322/do-i-need-a-flyback-diode-with-an-automotive-relay

You can look it up but I think you may want a relay with a Diode in it to do this safely . Good luck


----------



## nyck

I am happy for you and thanks for rep+.


----------



## Dagamus NM

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GTXJackBauer*
> 
> Depending on which version of AQ you've installed, you might need a firmware update on certain devices.
> 
> Also, it should save your previous profile and allow you to reinstate it. Just restart AQ prior to doing so once you've done the updates all around.


As I was frustrated I completely overlooked the glaring orange notice about needing a firmware update. Maybe I am so used to seeing the orange under the main settings tab about needing to restart as administrator to do something that when I saw the orange it triggered an ignore flag in my brain.

Anyhow, saved profile and updated. Just had to reset my sources from HWinfo and everything is as it should be.


----------



## MrStrat007

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jflisk*
> 
> Mega -What about flyback voltage thru the relay . See here
> http://electronics.stackexchange.com/questions/56322/do-i-need-a-flyback-diode-with-an-automotive-relay
> 
> You can look it up but I think you may want a relay with a Diode in it to do this safely . Good luck


You can probably find a diode for 10 cents that'll serve the purpose, just run it opposite to the power wires to the coil so that it's blocking current when the relay is on but allows flyback current/voltage to flow when it is switched off.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jflisk*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *ruffhi*
> 
> Following that success ... now to see if I am heading in the right direction ...
> 
> As I understand it, I need to provide power to the fans via a switch ... and that switch is 'controlled' by the Aquaero switch.
> 
> MegaMan said 'just get an auto switch' and provided a link.
> 
> Some googling around led me to this switch (amazon) that included this pin out diagram ...
> 
> 
> 
> I also found this page that includes some directions for how to connect them ..
> (*Note:* I am not planning on using the cable from Pin 87a)
> 
> So ... if I understand the above ... this is what I need to do ...
> 
> 
> connect the fan hub power to switch pin 87
> 
> connect the fan hub ground to a ground cable coming from pin 85 ... and then connect them both to the ground on the PSU
> 
> connect switch pin 30 to the 12v power connection from the PSU
> 
> connect switch pin 86 to the Aquaero relay switch
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So ... the Aquaero relay switch will send ON / OFF signals to the 30A relay switch and it will let the power from the PSU through (if ON) or not (if OFF) to the fan hub.
> 
> So ... do I have this right?
> 
> Edit: I found this video that talks about these ... I think I do have it right. Time to pull the trigger on my Amazon cart
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> You are correct. If i said switch I ment relay and my phone failed me, sorry (auto[motive] relay)
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Mega -What about flyback voltage thru the relay . See here
> http://electronics.stackexchange.com/questions/56322/do-i-need-a-flyback-diode-with-an-automotive-relay
> 
> You can look it up but I think you may want a relay with a Diode in it to do this safely . Good luck
Click to expand...

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrStrat007*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Jflisk*
> 
> Mega -What about flyback voltage thru the relay . See here
> http://electronics.stackexchange.com/questions/56322/do-i-need-a-flyback-diode-with-an-automotive-relay
> 
> You can look it up but I think you may want a relay with a Diode in it to do this safely . Good luck
> 
> 
> 
> You can probably find a diode for 10 cents that'll serve the purpose, just run it opposite to the power wires to the coil so that it's blocking current when the relay is on but allows flyback current/voltage to flow when it is switched off.
Click to expand...

i would ask @IT Diva sorry dc aint my specialty i can do it, but i ask people better then me when i dont know


----------



## vonh

Can I connect both an Aquacomputer D5 pump and the MPS pressure sensor of my Aqualis XT reservoir to the Aquabus High connector on the Aquaero 6 PRO? I assumed so, and ordered a 4 pin aquabus Y splitter, but after thumbing through the Aquaero manual I'm not sure.


----------



## Dagamus NM

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vonh*
> 
> Can I connect both an Aquacomputer D5 pump and the MPS pressure sensor of my Aqualis XT reservoir to the Aquabus High connector on the Aquaero 6 PRO? I assumed so, and ordered a 4 pin aquabus Y splitter, but after thumbing through the Aquaero manual I'm not sure.


Yes.

Which d5 are you using BTW?


----------



## vonh

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dagamus NM*
> 
> Yes.
> 
> Which d5 are you using BTW?


Great, thank you. I'm using the "Aquacomputer D5 Pump Mechanics with USB and Aquabus Interface" part number (41093). It will be paired to a Watercool D5 pump top. I bought that version specifically so I could use the Aquabus conenction, as all 4 PWM will be otherwise occupied.

I'll also be connecting 4 PWM fan groups, a "high flow" flow meter (53068), 4-5 temperature sensors, and a 5mm RGB LED module (34930). Still waiting on lots of parts, but the Aquaero was delivered today courtesy of Aquatuning and I just had to open it up.


----------



## smicha

Something to come on Aquaero 6 Pro soon


----------



## zerophase

I'm trying to write an aquasuite equivalent for Linux. I heard there was an sdk available for the Aquaeros, but checking the Aqua Computer github only has an sdk for plugins, and it hasn't been updated in multiple years. Is there another github repo with a different sdk?


----------



## Barefooter

I noticed on PPCs the Aquaero 6XT was somewhere around $210 a few weeks ago.

Now it's down to $186.75. Makes me wonder... is it a price cut, or is there a new one coming soon?

The Aquaero 6 was announced on August 31, 2013 here
https://forum.aquacomputer.de/weitere-foren/english-forum/103573-new-aquaero-6/

What do you think? Is there a new model on the horizon?


----------



## InfoSeeker

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Barefooter*
> 
> I noticed on PPCs the Aquaero 6XT was somewhere around $210 a few weeks ago.
> 
> Now it's down to $186.75. Makes me wonder... is it a price cut, or is there a new one coming soon?
> 
> The Aquaero 6 was announced on August 31, 2013 here
> https://forum.aquacomputer.de/weitere-foren/english-forum/103573-new-aquaero-6/
> 
> What do you think? Is there a new model on the horizon?


The $186 price range seems to be what I remember historically, I may be wrong.

One thing aquacomputer has made clear in the past, if a new aquaero, or anything, is planned,
there will be no preannouncement prior to release.


----------



## Daggi

Hey
On my new system I have two high flow usb flow sensors. Both are connected with usb. Is there a way to have these two to show up in the information pages on my Aquaero 6XT when connected with usb or do they need to be connected with aquabus?


----------



## InfoSeeker

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Daggi*
> 
> Hey
> On my new system I have two high flow usb flow sensors. Both are connected with usb. Is there a way to have these two to show up in the information pages on my Aquaero 6XT when connected with usb or do they need to be connected with aquabus?


On page 39 of the aquaero manual I see the following, which may be of interest:
Quote:


> *17.4. USB LCD page*
> The information page "USB LCD page" can be used to transfer user defined
> content onto the aquaero display. Currently, the third party software „LCDHype"
> (author Daniel Frömmel, freeware, lcdhype.condense.de) is supported.
> The program folder of the aquasuite software contains the file „aquaerolcdhype.
> zip", which is to be unpacked into the „controller" folder of the LCDHype
> program folder. Subsequently, LCDHype will be able to transfer content
> to the aquaero. While the information page „USB LCD" is active in the
> aquaero, content from LCDHype will be displayed. Additional information
> can be found in our online forums: forum.aquacomputer.de


----------



## Daggi

Thanks, I'll take a closer look at this.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *InfoSeeker*
> 
> On page 39 of the aquaero manual I see the following, which may be of interest:


----------



## skingun

Hi All. Long time lurker!

I've got a couple of questions regarding my aquaero and AC gear. Can I trouble you lovely folk for some help?

1) I am running 2 AC D5 USB pumps in serial with an EK pump top. I have managed to get both pumps to show up in aquasuite and connected to the aquaero via the aquabus only (connected by USB first to assign different bus addresses). Both pumps can be controlled in aquasuite but only 1 of the pumps is reporting information - rpm,Hz, A and %. Any ideas why the other pump is not showing this?

Screenshot below:



2) I have an AC high flow meter (not the USB one - just has the large 3 pin header. The cable i bought for the flow meter is only 18cm long so I used a 3 pin fan extension so it could reach the aquaero. I connected it to the header marked 'flow', but for some reason it's not giving me any data in aquasuite or the aquaero. Any ideas what's up?


----------



## Revan654

Does any store have VISION connection terminal for kryographics instock yet? Every place I check says out of Stock including Aquacomputer web store.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Daggi*
> 
> Hey
> On my new system I have two high flow usb flow sensors. Both are connected with usb. Is there a way to have these two to show up in the information pages on my Aquaero 6XT when connected with usb or do they need to be connected with aquabus?


If you want the aquaero to display info, they have to be connected via aquabus. You may be able to use a 3rd party program to "inject" it, Idk but I would think it is easier to just connect it.


----------



## nyck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skingun*
> 
> Hi All. Long time lurker!
> 
> I've got a couple of questions regarding my aquaero and AC gear. Can I trouble you lovely folk for some help?
> 
> 1) I am running 2 AC D5 USB pumps in serial with an EK pump top. I have managed to get both pumps to show up in aquasuite and connected to the aquaero via the aquabus only (connected by USB first to assign different bus addresses). Both pumps can be controlled in aquasuite but only 1 of the pumps is reporting information - rpm,Hz, A and %. Any ideas why the other pump is not showing this?
> 
> Screenshot below:
> 
> 
> 
> 2) I have an AC high flow meter (not the USB one - just has the large 3 pin header. The cable i bought for the flow meter is only 18cm long so I used a 3 pin fan extension so it could reach the aquaero. I connected it to the header marked 'flow', but for some reason it's not giving me any data in aquasuite or the aquaero. Any ideas what's up?


you must connect the d5 pump with the usb cable and check if the aquabus address was saved. try to assign another address from 12 to15 and save.

i have the your flow sensor with a 3 pin cable extension and i don't have problem.
the flow sensor should view it in this page


----------



## skingun

I have already assigned another address. Both pumps show in aquasuite and I can control the speed of both pump (I can hear them get faster/slower).

But the second pump does not report rpm to aquasuite.im going to try and swap the aquabus cables around tomorrow to eliminate them as the cause. Will let you know how I get on.


----------



## JustinThyme

Going to read though this thread front to back eventually.
Shut up and put up the $$ and bought the 6 Pro. Truth be known if I could have sourced the 6LT I would have went that route. Not all that interested in the display portion of it, just the controller and software.

Connecting the devices was easy, not much to it. I didnt go splurge on their pump with aquabus and USB when I can get the same out of using a PWM pump. it just resisters as a Fan and have to use a fan header. So many stories with no hard facts. The info on the website is vague to say the least. Once I got it and got everything set up it works as I was expecting which is a good thing. Better than the ASUS AI suite fan control thats not horrible when you use it with the EXT fan controller just a few things missing. I can now get flow and I ddidnt have to leave my intake fan connected to the CPU header and listen to it throttle up and down even though I had opened the response and ramp times up to over 30 seconds.

So now
Chan 1 all 5 rad fans controlled form the liquid temp
Chan 2 case intake fan in the back controlled from temp sensor in front compartment in a dead zone with little air movement.
Chan 3 open for now, may add second pump
Chan 4 D5 PWM pump.

Flow meter with alarm
Temp sensor for liquid loop, inside case front and rear side (Carbide AR 540 Case) and one more poking out the back for ambient.

Pulling in the software info with AIDA64 Extreme and ponied up and bought that too.

The software took a bit to figure out, no real manual that made any sense and the one youtuber that appeared to look like he knew what he was doing was clicking around to fast with most of clicking having not a thing to do with the task at hand. Once I got it figured out its now easy.

This is a nice controller with decent software once you get past the curve......pun semi intended. The display looks nice but didnt really want it but seeing how I had to get it anyhow I went ahead and bout the black front that should have come with it for free or at least there should have been two purchasing options of silver or black.


----------



## skingun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skingun*
> 
> I have already assigned another address. Both pumps show in aquasuite and I can control the speed of both pump (I can hear them get faster/slower).
> 
> But the second pump does not report rpm to aquasuite.im going to try and swap the aquabus cables around tomorrow to eliminate them as the cause. Will let you know how I get on.


Morning, I have done the following:

swapped aquabus cables over at Y splitter. No changes noticed so Y splitter must be ok.

swapped cables over at pump, no change. aquabus cables must be ok.

Put everything back together, turned on PC and pump 2 was running at 100% speed and had disappeared from aquasuite. Had to reconnect via USB. Turned off PC, removed USB cable, still showing in aquasuite. Still not reporting RPM but speed control is working.

Do you think this is a faulty pump?


----------



## nyck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skingun*
> 
> Morning, I have done the following:
> 
> swapped aquabus cables over at Y splitter. No changes noticed so Y splitter must be ok.
> 
> swapped cables over at pump, no change. aquabus cables must be ok.
> 
> Put everything back together, turned on PC and pump 2 was running at 100% speed and had disappeared from aquasuite. Had to reconnect via USB. Turned off PC, removed USB cable, still showing in aquasuite. Still not reporting RPM but speed control is working.
> 
> Do you think this is a faulty pump?


try to connect the pumps only one at a time and see if they work for themselves.
i don't have this pumps, but i know that every ac product that use the aquabus interface , after you have assigned the address you must assign the aquabus( for aquaero 6) or usb ( for stand alone product) priority and then push the save button.

remember to push save button to save the setup in the device


----------



## InfoSeeker

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Daggi*
> 
> Hey
> On my new system I have two high flow usb flow sensors. Both are connected with usb. Is there a way to have these two to show up in the information pages on my Aquaero 6XT when connected with usb or do they need to be connected with aquabus?


As mega said, easiest with aquabus connection, but a third option is to use AIDA64. It has a module that displays to the aquaero screen, though I have never used it, and do not know how it works. If you wanted to check it out, AIDA64 has a trial period.


----------



## Daggi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *InfoSeeker*
> 
> As mega said, easiest with aquabus connection, but a third option is to use AIDA64. It has a module that displays to the aquaero screen, though I have never used it, and do not know how it works. If you wanted to check it out, AIDA64 has a trial period.


I have already connected them to the aquabus







You should try the AIDA module, it works great but AIDA have to run all the time, and i don't want that.


----------



## skingun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nyck*
> 
> try to connect the pumps only one at a time and see if they work for themselves.
> i don't have this pumps, but i know that every ac product that use the aquabus interface , after you have assigned the address you must assign the aquabus( for aquaero 6) or usb ( for stand alone product) priority and then push the save button.
> 
> remember to push save button to save the setup in the device


I had already done all of that. Probably my fault for not explaining clearly.

I've raised an RMA ticket with the supplier.


----------



## vonh

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zerophase*
> 
> I'm trying to write an aquasuite equivalent for Linux. I heard there was an sdk available for the Aquaeros, but checking the Aqua Computer github only has an sdk for plugins, and it hasn't been updated in multiple years. Is there another github repo with a different sdk?


I don't have an answer to your question, but I'd be extremely interested in any progress you make on this.

I just got a new system up and running on Linux. I'm sorting some other issues out at the moment, but I was planning on trying to get Aquasuite to run using either Mono or WINE. Has anyone else tried this with any success?


----------



## DanBr

I am having trouble updating the Aqua Suite software. When I start the program I get a pop up that says I need to update. When I click on that I get a windows pop up that says
Aqua Suite has stopped working and it closes the software program. Do I do a fresh install?
How do I back up all my settings to reinstall ( I don't remember how to do that)
Any help appreciated.
I was a lot more familiar with it a year ago when I first installed and learned about the program. It has just run fine in the background and I have not kept up with it so I am like brand new user again

Also My MPS meter now has a red X and does not show up in the overview page
dan

I can't find the English Aqua Computer site so I don't know what I am downloading.


----------



## skingun

You need to download the application from their website.


----------



## DanBr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skingun*
> 
> You need to download the application from their website.


can't find english site, so not sure what I am downloading.
How do I back up and reinstall my settings so I don't lose all my fan curves etc.

dan


----------



## skingun

To download the latest version follow this link:

http://aquacomputer.de/software.html

Click on the top link.

To save your profile navigate in aquasuite to aquaero>System>Profiles and factory defaults. You can save the profile and create a backup here. However, you should be given the option to keep your settings when installing the new version. You will have to close aquasuite in order to install the new copy.


----------



## DanBr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skingun*
> 
> To download the latest version follow this link:
> 
> http://aquacomputer.de/software.html
> 
> Click on the top link.
> 
> To save your profile navigate in aquasuite to aquaero>System>Profiles and factory defaults. You can save the profile and create a backup here. However, you should be given the option to keep your settings when installing the new version. You will have to close aquasuite in order to install the new copy.


thanks, i will give it a try
dan


----------



## Shoggy

Since the difference between these versions must be quite huge I doubt that the saved data will be compatible. The newer aquasuite will already tell with a message box if the data is compatible when you try to update the firmware.


----------



## DanBr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> Since the difference between these versions must be quite huge I doubt that the saved data will be compatible. The newer aquasuite will already tell with a message box if the data is compatible when you try to update the firmware.


My version was new Sept, 2015.
How do I back up my profile and import it?

thanks
dan

I do see a folder called aquasuite-data on my hard drive and it has a sub folder that says profile. Would I just copy that entire folder (aquasuite-data) back into the same spot after updating?
Skingun suggested this "To save your profile navigate in aquasuite to aquaero>System>Profiles and factory defaults"
I do see an import /export "page", is that what you mean.
It is an option on the overview page configuration.
thanks


----------



## Shoggy

You can save the aquasuite-data folder as backup but you can not just copy it back 1:1. If the settings between both versions are compatible, the aquasuite will ask you if it should keep the data from the previous version.

The settings of the aquaero can be saved here (will look different in your version):



Overview pages can be saved here:


----------



## DanBr

I found it, I was on the wrong "settings" tab.
I just hope I don't have to re-create everything as I don't remember how at the moment.
Odd thing, on this page it says my firmware is up to date


----------



## Revan654

I was wondering if someone from Aquacomputer or any user could answer the following questions:

1. Any eta when stores will start to stock Vision Terminals?

2. How accurate is the reading in Aquasuite for CPU & GPU.

3. I looking to buy some PowerAdjust 3, Whats the difference between Ultra & Standard? I would assume the Ultra will have more features. Allot of the online stores the standard version is cheaper then the Ultra version. Which gave me a small pause.


----------



## Mega Man

Ultra is for stand alone usage


----------



## skingun

Dan

Once you download the new software you will then get the new fir. They're different things.

BR

Skin


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> Ultra is for stand alone usage


Are you 100% sure?

From Aquacomputer website

"The temperature control option is the only difference between standard and ultra version.".

It's just a bit confusing trying to figure out what version would be the best for my setup. Since I need to connect a few pumps, Flow controls, etc..


----------



## Mega Man

yes.

it will control ( independent - not connected via aquabus ) the connected fans/pumps/what ever via the ONE temp probe ( on board ) if you have it connected.

otherwise you "set it and forget it" IE single setting.

if the aquaero controls it, the aquaero CAN modulate it off of a controller

iirc it CAN NOT be used ( independently ) with a virtual temp of any kind ( IE air to water delta )


----------



## Revan654

I'm guessing I'm just a little confused how to set everything up and where everything goes so aquaero/AquaSuite can control it.

Parts:
- Aquaero 6 XT
- Aqua Computer D5 pump motor with USB and aquabus interface
- Aqua Computer D5 pump motor with USB and aquabus interface
- Flow sensor mps flow 400, G1/4
- Flow sensor mps flow 400, G1/4
- SPLITTY9 (Set One of Fans)
- SPLITTY9 (Set Two of Fans)
- SPLITTY9 (Set Three of Fans)
- SPLITTY9 (Set Four of Fans)
- SPLITTY9 (Set Five of Fans)
- SPLITTY9 (Set Six of Fans)


----------



## Mega Man

OK. Problems I see

You only have 4 channels for fans.

You need aquabus cables (at least 4) and a splitter for them. Also a USB hub I would recommend buying


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> OK. Problems I see
> 
> You only have 4 channels for fans.
> 
> You need aquabus cables (at least 4) and a splitter for them. Also a USB hub I would recommend buying


Wouldn't a few PowerAdjust fix this issue? Then just daisy chain them to Aquaero with a Y Cable or two along the way for the other devices.

I already grabbed two Hubby7 USB hub & extra aquabus cables.


----------



## Daggi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> Wouldn't a few PowerAdjust fix this issue? Then just daisy chain them to Aquaero with a Y Cable or two along the way for the other devices.
> 
> I already grabbed two Hubby7 USB hub & extra aquabus cables.


Yes that will fix the issue, if I remember correctly you can connect up to 8 Poweradjust's to an Aquaero


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> OK. Problems I see
> 
> You only have 4 channels for fans.
> 
> You need aquabus cables (at least 4) and a splitter for them. Also a USB hub I would recommend buying
> 
> 
> 
> Wouldn't a few PowerAdjust fix this issue? Then just daisy chain them to Aquaero with a Y Cable or two along the way for the other devices.
> 
> I already grabbed two Hubby7 USB hub & extra aquabus cables.
Click to expand...

It depends, are they pwm or voltage

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Daggi*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> Wouldn't a few PowerAdjust fix this issue? Then just daisy chain them to Aquaero with a Y Cable or two along the way for the other devices.
> 
> I already grabbed two Hubby7 USB hub & extra aquabus cables.
> 
> 
> 
> Yes that will fix the issue, if I remember correctly you can connect up to 8 Poweradjust's additional fan channels to an Aquaero
Click to expand...

You may want to just slave a 6lt fyi

You can, but that was not the question you asked about 1aq and 6 channels


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> It depends, are they pwm or voltage
> You may want to just slave a 6lt fyi
> 
> You can, but that was not the question you asked about 1aq and 6 channels


The Fans are PWM, I already tested with DC and they work perfectly.


----------



## Barefooter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> The Fans are PWM, I already tested with DC and they work perfectly.


The power adjusts only do voltage control.

You can slave an aquaero 6lt for four additional channels of PWM control.


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Barefooter*
> 
> The power adjusts only do voltage control.
> 
> You can slave an aquaero 6lt for four additional channels of PWM control.


True, Power Adjust will mainly for my Pumps.


----------



## _Killswitch_

I have a question for you Aquaero Owners, I plan on buying an Aquaero for my new pc. I have Ek Vardar fans in my STH10 case 3 fans in the front, top , bottom, then 2 on my cpu heatsink, and one as an exhaust. i got 4x pwn 3 way splitter. 1: will i be able to hook the 4 3 way spliter to Aquaero and 2: will be able set the cpu fans/exhaust too adjust fan speed to temp of the cpu?

Sorry if these questions sound silly, this will be 1st for me ever owning an aquaero


----------



## Barefooter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> True, Power Adjust will mainly for my Pumps.


Ok, I thought you needed six PWM control channels.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *_Killswitch_*
> 
> I have a question for you Aquaero Owners, I plan on buying an Aquaero for my new pc. I have Ek Vardar fans in my STH10 case 3 fans in the front, top , bottom, then 2 on my cpu heatsink, and one as an exhaust. i got 4x pwn 3 way splitter. 1: will i be able to hook the 4 3 way spliter to Aquaero and 2: will be able set the cpu fans/exhaust too adjust fan speed to temp of the cpu?
> 
> Sorry if these questions sound silly, this will be 1st for me ever owning an aquaero


Yes you can use splitters as long as only one fan RPM is reported per channel.

If you set your fans based on CPU temp the fans will be constantly ramping up and down, and will drive you crazy








Most people use a water temp to ambient temp virtual sensor to control fan speeds.
If you are just air cooling then you would not be able to do that.


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Barefooter*
> 
> Ok, I thought you needed six PWM control channels.
> Yes you can use splitters as long as only one fan RPM is reported per channel.
> 
> If you set your fans based on CPU temp the fans will be constantly ramping up and down, and will drive you crazy
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Most people use a water temp to ambient temp virtual sensor to control fan speeds.
> If you are just air cooling then you would not be able to do that.


I only need the first four sets to be PWM. The others are just case fans, If they work on DC or PWM it doesn't really matter to me.

If I were to get a second 6 XT How would I create a Slave? Could I still see the data on the Slave screen?

The difference between Another 6 XT and 3 Power Adjust is just about 20 to 40 dollars.


----------



## Barefooter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> I only need the first four sets to be PWM. The others are just case fans, If they work on DC or PWM it doesn't really matter to me.
> 
> If I were to get a second 6 XT How would I create a Slave? Could I still see the data on the Slave screen?
> 
> The difference between Another 6 XT and 3 Power Adjust is just about 20 to 40 dollars.


I was referring to the Aquaero 6 LT
http://www.performance-pcs.com/aquacomputer-faceplate-for-aquaero-5-and-6-pro-aluminium-black.html

I see they are out of stock at the moment. The LT has no sreen, you'll be able to see everything in the Aquasuite software.

I personally have not set up a slave unit yet. The Aquaero 6 LT is fairly new, and used to only be voltage controlled, but with the new firmware and software they are PWM controlled too. That would give you more flexibility.


----------



## Revan654

Is it possible to connect two Aquaero 6 XT or run two 6 XT without an issue?


----------



## s74r1

No 5.25" drive bay for Aquaero 6 Pro but still wanted the LCD so I had to get crafty. Thought I might share my results and maybe get some input.

*Chassis:* NZXT H440. No 5.25" bays which I'm fine with if it means better/quieter airflow. (but yeah not so impressed with quality compared to all the Lian Li's I've owned)
*Aquaero Mounting:* L brackets from some spare EK-UNI Holder 50/70 to make a 5.25" spacing on top of an external rear mounted Alphacool Eisbrecher Pro XT45 240 rad (It already had screws in outer enclosure which worked to attach the brackets).
*Ideas needed:* Some way to cover it or an enclosure of some sort, the second to last pic below has part of an old optical drive bay chassis door thingy on it but too much modding required to attach it permanently Also does not cover the top fully. Sides of AQ I suppose can be painted to match.

Sauce:







(Also, the beige Noctua sides will be gone soon with some silicone fan sleeves or paint, just temporary mount right now)


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Barefooter*
> 
> The power adjusts only do voltage control.
> 
> You can slave an aquaero 6lt for four additional channels of PWM control.
> 
> 
> 
> True, Power Adjust will mainly for my Pumps.
Click to expand...

You should not do that. Usb aquabus pumps do not need a power adj
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Barefooter*
> 
> Ok, I thought you needed six PWM control channels.
> Yes you can use splitters as long as only one fan RPM is reported per channel.
> 
> If you set your fans based on CPU temp the fans will be constantly ramping up and down, and will drive you crazy
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Most people use a water temp to ambient temp virtual sensor to control fan speeds.
> If you are just air cooling then you would not be able to do that.
> 
> 
> 
> I only need the first four sets to be PWM. The others are just case fans, If they work on DC or PWM it doesn't really matter to me.
> 
> If I were to get a second 6 XT How would I create a Slave? Could I still see the data on the Slave screen?
> 
> The difference between Another 6 XT and 3 Power Adjust is just about 20 to 40 dollars.
Click to expand...

You would need to remove the screen. You need to use a "lt" model to make a slave
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> Is it possible to connect two Aquaero 6 XT or run two 6 XT without an issue?


you can run 2 xts independently of each other


----------



## Revan654

Maybe it's a bit late or something. From what I'm getting the aquabus D5 Pump only needs aquabus & USB connected? Whats the Tacho port for?


----------



## fast_fate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> Maybe it's a bit late or something. From what I'm getting the aquabus D5 Pump only needs aquabus & USB connected?
> *Whats the Tacho port for?*


Connect to CPU fan header.
Configure Bios or software to shut system down if reporting 0 RPM









Happy Festive Season to ALL from the Land Down Under


----------



## mgdman546

Hi, Everyone I am looking for some help with converting my Aquaero 6 PRO to a slave device for my Aquaero 6 XT.

With the new Aquasuite 2017 it states you can use the pwm connections from slave devices and I would like to have 8 pwm fans controlled this way is this correct?

If this is possible what is the proper sequence for setting this up. Currently I am running Aquasuite 2016 and only have the XT connected, it prompted me to update to 2017 but i have not yet.

The PRO has not been flashed to slave yet and i still have the older firmware on both XT and PRO.

The Question is do I update both units to the newer firmware then slave the Pro to the XT before updating Aquasuite?

Or should I install the new software then slave the Pro to the XT?

I also read in forms that you have to remove the display from the unit (Aquaero Pro) in order to use it as a slave is this correct?

Thank you for any help and Happy Holidays.


----------



## Mega Man

Yes you must remove the display to flash to a slave.

As to pwm from slave shoggy stated it was possible in the "next" update. Which has come but I don't know of anyone that has used it yet.

However if you flash it and you can't you can always flash it back, assuming you don't brick it (which is hard to do)

That said I don't believe shoggy would say something about the function and not come through


----------



## apw63

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mgdman546*
> 
> Hi, Everyone I am looking for some help with converting my Aquaero 6 PRO to a slave device for my Aquaero 6 XT.
> 
> With the new Aquasuite 2017 it states you can use the pwm connections from slave devices and I would like to have 8 pwm fans controlled this way is this correct?
> 
> If this is possible what is the proper sequence for setting this up. Currently I am running Aquasuite 2016 and only have the XT connected, it prompted me to update to 2017 but i have not yet.
> 
> The PRO has not been flashed to slave yet and i still have the older firmware on both XT and PRO.
> 
> The Question is do I update both units to the newer firmware then slave the Pro to the XT before updating Aquasuite?
> 
> Or should I install the new software then slave the Pro to the XT?
> 
> I also read in forms that you have to remove the display from the unit (Aquaero Pro) in order to use it as a slave is this correct?
> 
> Thank you for any help and Happy Holidays.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> Yes you must remove the display to flash to a slave.
> 
> As to pwm from slave shoggy stated it was possible in the "next" update. Which has come but I don't know of anyone that has used it yet.
> 
> However if you flash it and you can't you can always flash it back, assuming you don't brick it (which is hard to do)
> 
> That said I don't believe shoggy would say something about the function and not come through


I just slaved an extra A6 pro to my main A6 pro. Here is a link to my aquacomputer forums thread Slave a A6 Pro to an A6 Pro?

I used this guide SETTING UP AN AQUAERO 5 LT AS A SLAVE DEVICE . It is old but still relavent. Should get you all the info you need.

I gained 4 more PWN fan headers and 4 temp probe headers.


----------



## Daggi

Hi
I have been a huge fan of the MPS 400 flow meter. But can someone tell my why they don't last for more than 6 month's to a year?? My third MPS400 flow sensor stopped working. Am I doing something wrong. I went with two of the USB high flow version in my new build but i really hate the rattling noise. So I would love to go back to the MPS400.


----------



## radrok

Hello guys,

I have a question for you :

I'm currently using an Aquaero 6 Pro to power up some fans on channels 4-3 and two Koolance PMP-500 pumps on channels 1-2.

What is bugging me is that the controller at max speed is feeding only 2.0A @ 11v instead of the 2.5A @ 12v at which the pumps are rated at max speed. VRM temps aren't even that high, approx 50c

Could it be that the pumps are in a restrictive loop and the power consumption isn't high when flow is relatively low?

Setup is two 420 rads plus 360 MO-RA3, CPU block, couple GPU blocks and Motherboard fullcover, some quick disconnects and a High Flow USB flow meter.

Thanks


----------



## GTXJackBauer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *radrok*
> 
> Hello guys,
> 
> I have a question for you :
> 
> I'm currently using an Aquaero 6 Pro to power up some fans on channels 4-3 and two Koolance PMP-500 pumps on channels 1-2.
> 
> What is bugging me is that the controller at max speed is feeding only 2.0A @ 11v instead of the 2.5A @ 12v at which the pumps are rated at max speed. VRM temps aren't even that high, approx 50c
> 
> Could it be that the pumps are in a restrictive loop and the power consumption isn't high when flow is relatively low?
> 
> Setup is two 420 rads plus 360 MO-RA3, CPU block, couple GPU blocks and Motherboard fullcover, some quick disconnects and a High Flow USB flow meter.
> 
> Thanks


What is your flow reading and are your temps normal?


----------



## radrok

0,9 GPM and temperatures are perfectly fine, CPU around 50c and GPUs 39c


----------



## GTXJackBauer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *radrok*
> 
> 0,9 GPM and temperatures are perfectly fine, CPU around 50c and GPUs 39c


I get about the same flow and temps. Rule of thumb for flow is 1.0-1.5 GPM.

Now I"m not sure why its reading as so. Make sure your Advanced Settings to each pump channel has it set at Power Controlled.

Other than that, your temps on the system and controller look good as well as the flow.


----------



## InfoSeeker

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Daggi*
> 
> Hi
> I have been a huge fan of the MPS 400 flow meter. But can someone tell my why they don't last for more than 6 month's to a year?? My third MPS400 flow sensor stopped working. Am I doing something wrong. I went with two of the USB high flow version in my new build but i really hate the rattling noise. So I would love to go back to the MPS400.


That doesn't seem right.

I had an MPS400 in my computer for about a year until a nearby lightning strike killed the system.
But the MPS400 still works and is going into the replacement system.

Your best bet is to talk to aquacomputer tech support at [email protected]


----------



## mgdman546

Quote:


> I just slaved an extra A6 pro to my main A6 pro. Here is a link to my aquacomputer forums thread Slave a A6 Pro to an A6 Pro?
> 
> I used this guide SETTING UP AN AQUAERO 5 LT AS A SLAVE DEVICE . It is old but still relavent. Should get you all the info you need.
> 
> I gained 4 more PWN fan headers and 4 temp probe headers.


Thanks apw64 that's the information i was looking for.


----------



## radrok

What I find strange is that I have such a low flow with two PMP 500s which are very strong pumps, hence my perplexity about the power draw in Aquaero.

I'm thinking about buying a couple of poweradjust 3 to see if things change.


----------



## Mega Man

I would not waste my money.

I would recommend learning about electricity.

Amps can not be controlled. *

Voltage can

Amps are pulled voltage is pushed

What that means is the electronic will use as many amps as it needs, no way to change it, assuming there is a supply for it.

There are (from my limited understanding )some ways to regulate the amps but it is usually capping the supply as I understand it.

It diva would be better to talk about that.....

I just know your pumps are using what they need and a power adj won't help unless the aq is under powering it.... or you are tripping the electronic fuse
* you can change resistance which will change amp draw


----------



## Ashcroft

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Daggi*
> 
> Hi
> I have been a huge fan of the MPS 400 flow meter. But can someone tell my why they don't last for more than 6 month's to a year?? My third MPS400 flow sensor stopped working. Am I doing something wrong. I went with two of the USB high flow version in my new build but i really hate the rattling noise. So I would love to go back to the MPS400.


That isn't my experience with them. I have one that has been running for about 3 years without any problems.

What sort of thing goes wrong? The only thing I could imagine is the rather small pressure sensor ports being blocked but that should be pretty easy to fix with a good cleaning


----------



## Daggi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ashcroft*
> 
> That isn't my experience with them. I have one that has been running for about 3 years without any problems.
> 
> What sort of thing goes wrong? The only thing I could imagine is the rather small pressure sensor ports being blocked but that should be pretty easy to fix with a good cleaning


The sensors worked fine for a long time then they started with jumpy readings to no readings at all, I have tried cleaning the ports with no luck. The only thing that work is the internal temp sensor.


----------



## Ashcroft

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Daggi*
> 
> The sensors worked fine for a long time then they started with jumpy readings to no readings at all, I have tried cleaning the ports with no luck. The only thing that work is the internal temp sensor.


To clean the housing ports and sensor tubes you really need to disassemble the thing and make sure the tiny prong ports are clear as well as the hikes in the housing. Though you may have done that already.
That does sound like just the sensor chip itself is the problem.


----------



## Daggi

I got answers from Aqua Computer today regarding the three MPS 400 flowmeters which stopped working. Since I use Mayhems X1 coolant, it is the most likely cause for the sensors to stop working after a while. The reason is that the X1 coolant contains glycerol and membrane inside the sensor can not withstand it.


----------



## AresTheGod

Hey guys,
It may seems a bit stupid, but while I was trying to sleeve my pump,, I had to enlarge the existing hole, but in doing so, some wires broke...
My pump is a Aqua Computer D5 pump motor with USB and aquabus interface, and it still work, but I can't connect it to my Aquaero 6 XT device...
Here some pic about the disaster
















Thought I could maybe repair this by just soldering wires? Is it possible?
Thanks!


----------



## Ashcroft

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AresTheGod*
> 
> Hey guys,
> It may seems a bit stupid, but while I was trying to sleeve my pump,, I had to enlarge the existing hole, but in doing so, some wires broke...
> My pump is a Aqua Computer D5 pump motor with USB and aquabus interface, and it still work, but I can't connect it to my Aquaero 6 XT device...
> Here some pic about the disaster
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thought I could maybe repair this by just soldering wires? Is it possible?
> Thanks!


Yeah it should be pretty easy if you have some experience in soldering.

Here is a guide on what goes where.
http://forums.overclockers.com.au/showthread.php?t=1060642&page=4


----------



## AresTheGod

Oh thanks a lot!
Going to repair this and I'll post photos asap


----------



## ChiTownButcher

OCN Please help me understand and make up my mind. I have built several air cooled PC's and even used AIO coolers but want to make the next build with a custom loop.

So I am trying to figure out which way I would like to go for a future watercooled build. Case will be a Caselabs S8 with dual 360 P/P on top and a 240 in push in the bottom (So that I can put a drain port off the bottom rad with a ball valve and QD. Motherboard based on today's offering would be a Asus Maximus Formula (Watercool VRM) with a single Watercool GPU such as Titan XP or 1080ti and Watercool I7 both overclocked. Pump will be a D5 Vario as I dont want to deal with all of the typical PWM issues on the Pump - Just set it to 1-1.5gal/min and leave it. All fans will be Corsair ML120/Pro or ML140 Pro PWM based on research on both performance, sound signature and looks. I plan on dividing the fans into 4 channels using SATA powered PWM Fan Hubs: Case Fans, 240Rad, 360rad#1, 360Rad#2

I have been considering two directions:

1) Aquaero 6XT (Not sure what additional parts I would need a list of needed items would be great). I would like to use the Aquaero to adjust fan speed based with a 5-6c Delta from Ambient and Water Temp. I also would like it to provide an audible alarm if Delta hits 10c or if CPU or GPU Temps get too hot or if water flow goes below .8 gal/min. System shutdown would also be a nice feature if CPU or GPU hits 80c.

2) Use Speedfan and NZXT CAM Software with a Koolance flow meter and display and a G1/4 Water Temp Sensor.. From my understanding I can set speed fan to adjust RPM curve on the fans based on the water temperature but not on a delta of ambient and water temp. Also other than some screen pop up alerts for temp with CAM (That I can monitor from a Tablet) I would not be able to know if something is going wrong. As for water flow I would need to visually check periodically to make sure its consistent over time.

*Is the Aquaero worth the extra money and is there a major benefit I am missing? What are all of the parts I will need in addition to the unit? I tried reading about 200 pages of this thread but my ADHD kicks in and have a hard time putting it all together.*


----------



## jsutter71

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ashcroft*
> 
> Yeah it should be pretty easy if you have some experience in soldering.
> 
> Here is a guide on what goes where.
> http://forums.overclockers.com.au/showthread.php?t=1060642&page=4


I made the exact same mistake a while back and a quick solder job fixed the problem.


----------



## miller330i

Hi guys! I have a Be Quiet! 900 pro case, and I will have a long rad in the front that requires me to remove my 5 1/4 drive bay cage.Do you guys n gals have any idea where I could mount my Aquero XT ? Thanks!

s-l1600.jpg 307k .jpg file


s-l1600.jpg 241k .jpg file


----------



## RedRover

Greetings all,
I'm a long time lurker in these parts, but I keep talking myself out of getting one of these amazing AQ controllers. So, after much heartburn on my last build, losing my GPUs to a failed pump while running overnight, I'm rebuilding my rig again and I've decided to join the happy AQ family this go around. It is pretty sad, but I've had 90% of the parts to rebuild for over a year and just haven't found the time to build it. But, now I'm focused and motivated to get it done over the next several weeks. I'm on extended holiday in Florida now, so I'm going to drop buy PPCs and get some fun stuff (no, that's not misspelled, BUY is right).

Sooooo, I have read through _almost_ this entire thread, but I want to get some clarification, and some much needed advice. Hopefully I can convey my thoughts and questions without rambling too much.

I'm 75% sure I'm going with the 6XT, 25% for the 6 Pro. I've removed the external 5.25 bay cage in my 900D, and it's a non-reversible mod, so, I was considering going with the pro and just buy the extra IR keyboard, make a black acrylic box for it and butt it up against the window somewhere. But, I'm still hopeful I can figure out a way to get a 6XT in the front bay area with some creative modification. I feel like I would want to use the touchscreen more than the keyboard, which would probably get lost in the cluttered disaster I call a desk.

Fans / Fan Channel:
I might end up using all 4 channels, probably only 3.
Channel 1: 8 voltage controlled SP120s for GPU loop.
Channel 2: 4 voltage controlled SP120s for CPU loop.
Channel 3: 2 PWM AF120s for SB heatsink and GPU passive cooling.
Channel 4: A single PWM ML140 for CPU VRMs. I might combine this with channel 3, since it's not really important to make it separate, other than the fact that _I can_ with the AQ.

The fans are a few years old now, and although still seem to work fine, I was considering upgrading the radiator fans to EK F4-120ER's, since their specs look so awesome, and PWM is obviously the way things are going. Anyone have positive or negative experience with them, or recommend an alternate, or just keep the Corsairs till they croak?

Pumps:
I have a couple of Swiftech D5 PWM pumps, one for each loop. I know I can do a pull-up mod to make the AQ control them, but I'm not sold on the usefulness of this. Also, there is no way to get a 5th or 6th PWM channel. I was simply going to put them on MB PWM headers. I never change the flow rate once I get to something I'm happy with. I'll set the PWM rate in MB BIOS for each loop and basically forget about it. I suppose I could get 1 or 2 poweradjust 3's, but only if I kept at least one fan channel on voltage control.

But wait! Can I set an alarm in aquasuite that can perform a shutdown if the pumps slow significantly, or fail? I'm sure aida or hwinfo, or that open source one can pickup the rpm reading from the MB fan headers; just not sure if AQsuite can take any action on it. If that's not possible, or there isn't some other method, then I'll suck it up and buy new AQ USB pumps.

Flow meters:
Kind of the same situation as the pumps. I'd rather use little Bitspower flow meters I already have, like aesthetically, are inaudible to me, and plug them into a MB fan header.

I wanted AQsuite to be able to take action if it sees a problem. I know that's redundant to the pump RPM sensor, but I'm not keen on dropping $1500 on new GPUs, or CPU/MB because I was lazy, or stupid, or in my case, probably a bit of both. As with the pumps, I'll gladly buy a couple of MPS 400's if that idea doesn't work out. I'm not excited about calibrating those things, but maybe Martin or someone has a profile for a similar setup, and I can get it close enough. Or, if I can squeeze those honking AQ high flow ones in, I could do that, too. Although, I've read here that some people say they click, and that would drive me nuts. I've also read posts on MPS 400 reliability, so meh.

Shut down relay
In lieu of connecting to the ATX PSU harness, I think I'd rather go with the power switch method. Can I set two commands in case of an alarm? The 1st command would send a soft shut-down with a virtual press-release for graceful shutdown. If after x seconds their is still power, send the 4 second press to force the PSU to power off.

Other Stuff

Definitely going to pickup a Farbwerks. So much better than what I use now; single channel controller, that links to nothing, and is basically on/off/cycle. Anything to consider here? I think IT Diva posted something about the thin gauge wire from AQs cable. Maybe a workaround? Was thinking of buying these and make my own cables.
https://www.amazon.com/Electop-Pack-Connectors-Strip-Lights/dp/B010M7ZSNY/ref=sr_1_5?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1483066352&sr=1-5&keywords=rgb+led+cable+4+pin
I can make and sleeve 20 of these for the price they want for one.

If I need to replace pumps and flow sensors, I'm pretty sure I saw I could use a modmytoys PWM splitter PCB to hook everything to aquabus. Or I could keep everything on USB, or both? Want to make sure the AQ does a shutdown in case of failure, which I'm not sure would work since USB is going to require an OS response to function. I want it to work even if the OS is locked up, or if I'm in Linux, BIOS, or whatever.

Slightly off topic, but I had been putting a Bitspower temp sensor plug in the back of a Bitspower D5 pumptop. Their is an extra IN round back of those things. The only thing I'm worried about is it is about 15mm-20mm away from the path of the moving fluid, so I'm not sure how fast it's picking up temp changes. It may be more turbulent there than I think, but not sure who, if anyone, has tested something so obscure. Anyway, the reason for this train of thought relates to the fact that I've never had the ability to maintain fan speeds based on an ambient temp and coolant temp delta. So, this is now a concern. I don't want to install all this coolness and miss out on a critical thing like slow or unreliable temperature sensing.

OK, I guess that's more than enough for now.

Thank you in advance for the advice

Steve


----------



## miller330i

example_1.JPG 148k .JPG file
 This is the case
i was talking abot an sort of my set up. Thanks!


----------



## Mega Man

Un fortunately we got bombarded with tons of questions. I will hit the highlights quick and connect back tomorrow if I remember

Is the aq worth it, by far yes

It's it a waste of money, never

You can now add pwm channels, at least a total of 8 possibly 12?


----------



## RedRover

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> You have to use pin 2+3 (for aquaero 6 series it is 1+3). When the relay switches it will connect pin 1+3 in your case but it has no purpose for the shutdown.
> 
> It is also not really the same as pressing the power button. When you press the power button it will only cause an action in Windows which can be also configured. Normally the PC will go into standby mode or shut down. The green wire with the relay will immediately cut the power so there is no controlled shut down.
> 
> The aquaero also allows to do a controlled shutdown since it registers itself to the system as keyboard so it can "press" a shut down or standby key like the ones on multimedia keyboards. You could also do a clever two step shut down here. At first you try to shut down the system in a controlled way with the keyboard command and it the temperatures still goes up a little further you can use the relay to do the hard shut down.
> 
> Well, there are many ways how you could solve the shut down thing


Found this post from Shoggy. This uses the ATX PSU harness method, but it gets the results I want. So cool that these controllers are robust enough to get to your goal via multiple pathways.


----------



## InfoSeeker

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RedRover*
> 
> Greetings all,
> I'm a long time lurker in these parts, but I keep talking myself out of getting one of these amazing AQ controllers. So, after much heartburn on my last build, losing my GPUs to a failed pump while running overnight, I'm rebuilding my rig again and I've decided to join the happy AQ family this go around. It is pretty sad, but I've had 90% of the parts to rebuild for over a year and just haven't found the time to build it. But, now I'm focused and motivated to get it done over the next several weeks. I'm on extended holiday in Florida now, so I'm going to drop buy PPCs and get some fun stuff (no, that's not misspelled, BUY is right).
> 
> Sooooo, I have read through _almost_ this entire thread, but I want to get some clarification, and some much needed advice. Hopefully I can convey my thoughts and questions without rambling too much.


Hello RedRover,

Couple thoughts before I get into the gist of your post...

1. Cudos, you have done a lot of research, and you appear very knowledgeable on the subject.

2. It easy to sense your enthusiasm to move forward, but it is difficult to read through a "novella" in a thread like this. Many folks do not really have the time to read, comprehend and answer so many questions in one lengthy post. You may get a better response if you ask individual questions that can be quickly read and answered, and then move on to the next question in a new post. Not a flame, just a friendly suggestion.









Quote:


> I'm 75% sure I'm going with the 6XT, 25% for the 6 Pro. I've removed the external 5.25 bay cage in my 900D, and it's a non-reversible mod, so, I was considering going with the pro and just buy the extra IR keyboard, make a black acrylic box for it and butt it up against the window somewhere. But, I'm still hopeful I can figure out a way to get a 6XT in the front bay area with some creative modification. I feel like I would want to use the touchscreen more than the keyboard, which would probably get lost in the cluttered disaster I call a desk.


This is a personal preference, but I do not think I am alone.
If you have no obvious bay slot for the aquaero, save your money and get the LT version, and bury it in the bowels of the machine. Do NOT bother with the IR Keyboard. Working the aquaero from the LCD Screen or IR Keyboard is difficult... it works on a binary menu system and is a serious pain-in-the-butt. Use the included aquasuite to configure, control and monitor the aquaero.

Quote:


> Fans / Fan Channel:
> I might end up using all 4 channels, probably only 3.
> Channel 1: 8 voltage controlled SP120s for GPU loop.
> Channel 2: 4 voltage controlled SP120s for CPU loop.
> Channel 3: 2 PWM AF120s for SB heatsink and GPU passive cooling.
> Channel 4: A single PWM ML140 for CPU VRMs. I might combine this with channel 3, since it's not really important to make it separate, other than the fact that _I can_ with the AQ.
> 
> The fans are a few years old now, and although still seem to work fine, I was considering upgrading the radiator fans to EK F4-120ER's, since their specs look so awesome, and PWM is obviously the way things are going. Anyone have positive or negative experience with them, or recommend an alternate, or just keep the Corsairs till they croak?


No comment.

Quote:


> Pumps:
> I have a couple of Swiftech D5 PWM pumps, one for each loop. I know I can do a pull-up mod to make the AQ control them, but I'm not sold on the usefulness of this. Also, there is no way to get a 5th or 6th PWM channel. I was simply going to put them on MB PWM headers. I never change the flow rate once I get to something I'm happy with. I'll set the PWM rate in MB BIOS for each loop and basically forget about it. I suppose I could get 1 or 2 poweradjust 3's, but only if I kept at least one fan channel on voltage control.


I believe you can get 4 more PWM ports by slaving an AQ6 LT to your existing unit. Not cheap, but apparently doable.

Quote:


> But wait! Can I set an alarm in aquasuite that can perform a shutdown if the pumps slow significantly, or fail? I'm sure aida or hwinfo, or that open source one can pickup the rpm reading from the MB fan headers; just not sure if AQsuite can take any action on it. If that's not possible, or there isn't some other method, then I'll suck it up and buy new AQ USB pumps.


If you have an AC Flow Sensor connected via USB/aquabus, you can set up an alarm that can cut the RPM output to zero. If the RPM port is connected to the mobo CPU fan header, and the Bios is set to shutdown with a CPU fan failure, the system will shutdown. If you are driving your pumps from the CPU fan header, this will not work.

The aquacomputer D5 USB pumps also have an alarm that can be used if the pump fails.

There is an option to use the relay switch on the aquaero, but I am not versed on its use and someone else on the board will jump in if you want to pursue this.

Quote:


> Flow meters:
> Kind of the same situation as the pumps. I'd rather use little Bitspower flow meters I already have, like aesthetically, are inaudible to me, and plug them into a MB fan header.
> 
> I wanted AQsuite to be able to take action if it sees a problem. I know that's redundant to the pump RPM sensor, but I'm not keen on dropping $1500 on new GPUs, or CPU/MB because I was lazy, or stupid, or in my case, probably a bit of both. As with the pumps, I'll gladly buy a couple of MPS 400's if that idea doesn't work out. I'm not excited about calibrating those things, but maybe Martin or someone has a profile for a similar setup, and I can get it close enough. Or, if I can squeeze those honking AQ high flow ones in, I could do that, too. Although, I've read here that some people say they click, and that would drive me nuts. I've also read posts on MPS 400 reliability, so meh.


Calibrating the flow meter is really just for those who thrill in the challenge. The default settings get you into the ballpark and are acceptable. What you really want is to capture the change from flow X to flow zero on pump failure.

Yes, the "honking AQ high flow" units generally do have a slight ticking sound associated with them. The severity of the sound depends on the location in the machine and the sensitivity of the ear.

As to the MPS 400 reliability, there may be a correlation to the coolant used.

Quote:


> Shut down relay
> In lieu of connecting to the ATX PSU harness, I think I'd rather go with the power switch method. Can I set two commands in case of an alarm? The 1st command would send a soft shut-down with a virtual press-release for graceful shutdown. If after x seconds their is still power, send the 4 second press to force the PSU to power off.


It appears you have answered yourself on this.

Quote:


> Other Stuff
> 
> Definitely going to pickup a Farbwerks. So much better than what I use now; single channel controller, that links to nothing, and is basically on/off/cycle. Anything to consider here? I think IT Diva posted something about the thin gauge wire from AQs cable. Maybe a workaround? Was thinking of buying these and make my own cables.
> https://www.amazon.com/Electop-Pack-Connectors-Strip-Lights/dp/B010M7ZSNY/ref=sr_1_5?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1483066352&sr=1-5&keywords=rgb+led+cable+4+pin
> I can make and sleeve 20 of these for the price they want for one.
> 
> If I need to replace pumps and flow sensors, I'm pretty sure I saw I could use a modmytoys PWM splitter PCB to hook everything to aquabus. Or I could keep everything on USB, or both? Want to make sure the AQ does a shutdown in case of failure, which I'm not sure would work since USB is going to require an OS response to function. I want it to work even if the OS is locked up, or if I'm in Linux, BIOS, or whatever.
> 
> Slightly off topic, but I had been putting a Bitspower temp sensor plug in the back of a Bitspower D5 pumptop. Their is an extra IN round back of those things. The only thing I'm worried about is it is about 15mm-20mm away from the path of the moving fluid, so I'm not sure how fast it's picking up temp changes. It may be more turbulent there than I think, but not sure who, if anyone, has tested something so obscure. Anyway, the reason for this train of thought relates to the fact that I've never had the ability to maintain fan speeds based on an ambient temp and coolant temp delta. So, this is now a concern. I don't want to install all this coolness and miss out on a critical thing like slow or unreliable temperature sensing.


Other Stuff

No comment
If I may suggest a SPLITTY9 for the aquabus spiltter... very compact.

Agreed, you may not be getting the best result there, plus the pump generates heat also. Maybe try THIS or THAT in the loop?
Quote:


> OK, I guess that's more than enough for now.
> 
> Thank you in advance for the advice
> 
> Steve


----------



## RedRover

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *InfoSeeker*
> 
> Hello RedRover,
> 
> Couple thoughts before I get into the gist of your post...
> 
> 1. Cudos, you have done a lot of research, and you appear very knowledgeable on the subject.


Thanks, I've been building WC PCs for quite awhile. My first used almost all Danger Den components, if anybody remembers them, along with whatever I could scrounge up from the Home Depot plumbing department








Quote:


> 2. It easy to sense your enthusiasm to move forward, but it is difficult to read through a "novella" in a thread like this. Many folks do not really have the time to read, comprehend and answer so many questions in one lengthy post. You may get a better response if you ask individual questions that can be quickly read and answered, and then move on to the next question in a new post. Not a flame, just a friendly suggestion.


No offense taken. I am definitely enthusiastic for this build. The advice is taken positively on my end.
Quote:


> This is a personal preference, but I do not think I am alone.
> If you have no obvious bay slot for the aquaero, save your money and get the LT version, and bury it in the bowels of the machine. Do NOT bother with the IR Keyboard. Working the aquaero from the LCD Screen or IR Keyboard is difficult... it works on a binary menu system and is a serious pain-in-the-butt. Use the included aquasuite to configure, control and monitor the aquaero.


I had considered just that, but of course, nobody anywhere has the 6LT in stock. I may just get the PRO, since there are no blue or red lights on that one. I have tons of black acrylic sheet material, so I can make an internal enclosure for it and face it toward the window. I kinda like the idea of the display info.
Quote:


> I believe you can get 4 more PWM ports by slaving an AQ6 LT to your existing unit. Not cheap, but apparently doable.


Not sure how I missed this!! This is welcome news. I had also thought of just getting a second PRO and assign one to each loop.
Quote:


> If you have an AC Flow Sensor connected via USB/aquabus, you can set up an alarm that can cut the RPM output to zero. If the RPM port is connected to the mobo CPU fan header, and the Bios is set to shutdown with a CPU fan failure, the system will shutdown. If you are driving your pumps from the CPU fan header, this will not work.
> 
> The aquacomputer D5 USB pumps also have an alarm that can be used if the pump fails.


I love how flexible this thing is. So many ways to work out a solution.
Quote:


> If I may suggest a SPLITTY9 for the aquabus spiltter... very compact.


I'm weird, slightly OCD... I like to make my own cables







I'll make a wiring harness for every rad fan block, aquabus set, remove every header in between cable runs (including PSU to device molex conectors), so it has only one header on each end. I know I'm crazy. You can't explain insane; it just IS.

Thank you for all the great input!









And,
Happy New Year, everyone.









Steve


----------



## Revan654

Quick Question what screw size does Aquaero 6 use? M4 x ? or M3 x ?


----------



## Daggi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> Quick Question what screw size does Aquaero 6 use? M4 x ? or M3 x ?


M3


----------



## GTXJackBauer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> Quick Question what screw size does Aquaero 6 use? M4 x ? or M3 x ?


If you're talking about the front, M3 x 6mm Countersunk Screws.


----------



## miller330i

And the side mounting screws (4)? Thanks!!


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GTXJackBauer*
> 
> If you're talking about the front, M3 x 6mm Countersunk Screws.


Thanks that's what I was looking for.


----------



## Revan654

1. Do they still make the Aquameter for the Aquatube?
2. Quick question about the aquajet rinsing device for aquatube G1/4. Some sites say it's compatible with the aquatube G1/4 Delrin black other sites list it as incompatible. Not sure what it is.


----------



## Kenjiro

Hi everyone,

I was going to purchase the diode and resistors I needed to allow control of my EK-XRES D5 PWM pump/res combo but it seems to be working to some extent?

I've connected it to one of the pwm fan headers on my A6 and set it to pwm controlled as shown below...



I then added a preset value controller based off the fan settings above which is obviously the pump...

50% power...



100% power...



As you can see at 100% it's at 4830 rpm and the pump is audible and at 50% it's at 843 rpm and near silent. Lowering the power below 50% has no effect on rpm or noise.

I was under the impression the D5 was not controllable at all until modded with diode/resistors?


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> 1. Do they still make the Aquameter for the Aquatube?
> 2. Quick question about the aquajet rinsing device for aquatube G1/4. Some sites say it's compatible with the aquatube G1/4 Delrin black other sites list it as incompatible. Not sure what it is.


no it is discontinued and can no longer be used
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kenjiro*
> 
> Hi everyone,
> 
> I was going to purchase the diode and resistors I needed to allow control of my EK-XRES D5 PWM pump/res combo but it seems to be working to some extent?
> 
> I've connected it to one of the pwm fan headers on my A6 and set it to pwm controlled as shown below...
> 
> 
> 
> I then added a preset value controller based off the fan settings above which is obviously the pump...
> 
> 50% power...
> 
> 
> 
> 100% power...
> 
> 
> 
> As you can see at 100% it's at 4830 rpm and the pump is audible and at 50% it's at 843 rpm and near silent. Lowering the power below 50% has no effect on rpm or noise.
> 
> I was under the impression the D5 was not controllable at all until modded with diode/resistors?


50 50 shot but the new ones are already modded on the pcb from factory


----------



## InfoSeeker

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> 1. Do they still make the Aquameter for the Aquatube?
> 2. Quick question about the aquajet rinsing device for aquatube G1/4. Some sites say it's compatible with the aquatube G1/4 Delrin black other sites list it as incompatible. Not sure what it is.



As Mega said, the fill sensor specific to the aquatube has been discontinued.
There used to be two variants of the aquatube, one with G1/4 ports and one with G1/8 ports.
I do not see the G1/8 ported version on their web shop now, so it must have also been discontinued.
They still carry the rinse tubes for both the G1/8 & G1/4 ported aquatubes.
The rinse tube you want is the G1/4 version, it will work with either the black or white G1/4 ported aquatube.
The only difference between the black & white G1/4 aquatubes, other than color, is that the white version has four, 5mm holes in the bottom for LEDs.


----------



## InfoSeeker

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *miller330i*
> 
> And the side mounting screws (4)? Thanks!!


6-32 x 1/4" I believe.


----------



## Daggi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *InfoSeeker*
> 
> 6-32 x 1/4" I believe.


Are You sure? I believe it's M3 - 6 or 8 mm long, since the company is German I believe they use the metric system on their screws. I'm using M3 on my Aquaero 5 and 6


----------



## InfoSeeker

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Daggi*
> 
> Are You sure? I believe it's M3 - 6 or 8 mm long, since the company is German I believe they use the metric system on their screws. I'm using M3 on my Aquaero 5 and 6


I believe the 5.25 bay specifications were developed in the USA, so I think that weird inch/foot system was used.
But I have been wrong often enough to not argue this issue.









Hopefully someone with definitive knowledge will chime in.

Edit: on page 11 of this PDF document, the diagram does appear to support your comment on the 3mm screw size.

I stand corrected, thank you.


----------



## Daggi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *InfoSeeker*
> 
> I believe the 5.25 bay specifications were developed in the USA, so I think that weird inch/foot system was used.
> But I have been wrong often enough to not argue this issue.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hopefully someone with definitive knowledge will chime in.


Yes lets hope so







.I might be totally wrong to. It made me uncertain since i read somewhere about that in a Caselabs thread or so that Aquaero don't follow the 5.25 bay specs. I couldn't find anything in the manual either


----------



## RedRover

So, I was hoping to clarify this, as I like to use X1 Pastels, and I just bought two of the MPS 400s. From this, it looks like AQ says it contains glycerol (which is propylene glycol).
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Daggi*
> 
> I got answers from Aqua Computer today regarding the three MPS 400 flowmeters which stopped working. Since I use Mayhems X1 coolant, it is the most likely cause for the sensors to stop working after a while. The reason is that the X1 coolant contains glycerol and membrane inside the sensor can not withstand it.


Mayhems claims the following from their FAQ.
Quote:


> Mayhems X1 Coolant is a clear standard coolant that comes in many colours. It is a alternative coolant that does not use glycol in any form.


"Any form", to me, would mean any of glycol's chemical forms, including propylene glycol, a.k.a. glycerol.

However, the XT-1 product does appear to use ethylene glycol.
Quote:


> Mayhem XT-1 Coolant is a High Efficiency, Non-Toxic, Low Viscosity coolant based on Ethylene Glycol.


@Shoggy, can you confirm or deny that Mayhems X1 is somehow culpable in MPS 400 failures? If this is truly the case, is it possible Aquacomputer would update the MPS 400 to use a more chemically resistant membrane material?

I think I will post on the Mayhems forum for clarification from them, as well.

Thanks,
Steve


----------



## RedRover

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iCrap*
> 
> My latest project... i CNCed a new aquero panel to combine it with my on/reset switches on my case.


Hey iCrap, what kind of material did you mill that from? Aluminum, acrylic? Would it be possible to get that vector file from you? I use vCarve Pro & Aspire (occasionaly Fusion 360, but I'm not too good with it yet), but I can covert almost anything.

Thanks,
Steve


----------



## iCrap

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RedRover*
> 
> Hey iCrap, what kind of material did you mill that from? Aluminum, acrylic? Would it be possible to get that vector file from you? I use vCarve Pro & Aspire (occasionaly Fusion 360, but I'm not too good with it yet), but I can covert almost anything.
> 
> Thanks,
> Steve


I milled it out of aluminium, i think 6061.
I have really been having quite the struggle finding a good program to make the gcode and convert the files. What i've been doing is making them in SolidWorks, exporting it as a drawing in dxf and then opening that in illustruator and converting to SVG, and then i use Inventables Easel to convert that into GCODE. It dosen't always work that well.

Here's a copy of the file though.

PCCase.zip 205k .zip file


----------



## iamjanco

Hi guys, got a couple of questions: my current build necessitates some changes which force me to lose the bay space in the front of the case (Be Quiet Pro 900) I originally planned to use for my 6xt. If I remove the display board from it and mount the main board internally, can I use it like an LT version using just the software? If so, do I lose any functionality beyond what the display provides? I know I lose the IR controller by doing so, but is there anything else I should be concerned about?

As for my second question, it's about the filter assy. I'm not crazy about the restrictions associated with its narrowed ball valve throughways and was wondering if I removed them whether I could use two inline valves for the same purpose. Also, I'm not actually sure if there's anything out there using ball valves that has wider passageways that would still allow for manageable inline mounting. That is, without resorting to something the sze of a garden hose spigot. Anyone know?

TIA!


----------



## miller330i

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iamjanco*
> 
> Hi guys, got a couple of questions: my current build necessitates some changes which force me to lose the bay space in the front of the case (Be Quiet Pro 900) I originally planned to use for my 6xt. If I remove the display board from it and mount the main board internally, can I use it like an LT version using just the software? If so, do I lose any functionality beyond what the display provides? I know I lose the IR controller by doing so, but is there anything else I should be concerned about?
> 
> As for my second question, it's about the filter assy. I'm not crazy about the restrictions associated with its narrowed ball valve throughways and was wondering if I removed them whether I could use two inline valves for the same purpose. Also, I'm not actually sure if there's anything out there using ball valves that has wider passageways that would still allow for manageable inline mounting. That is, without resorting to something the sze of a garden hose spigot. Anyone know?
> 
> TIA!


I have the same question! I hope you get an answer!! If you do please let me know as well about relocating the Aquaero inside the case.


----------



## RedRover

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iCrap*
> 
> I milled it out of aluminium, i think 6061.
> I have really been having quite the struggle finding a good program to make the gcode and convert the files. What i've been doing is making them in SolidWorks, exporting it as a drawing in dxf and then opening that in illustruator and converting to SVG, and then i use Inventables Easel to convert that into GCODE. It dosen't always work that well.
> 
> Here's a copy of the file though.
> 
> PCCase.zip 205k .zip file


Thanks for this!
For something like this, I'd use Google Sketchup to do a 2D profile, then import it into vCarve Pro to define the toolpaths and generate the gcode. IIRC, vcarve desktop is relatively inexpensive; I think size is the only real difference than the pro version, maybe 24x24 vs unlimited sheet size. Of course you could do it all in vcarve, but dimensioning tools are not as easy as sketchup. Sketchup Make is free, and super easy to use.

Since you're familiar with Solidworks, you should check out Fusion 360. It's free for 'enthusiasts', and does the CAD, CAM, and can generate the gCode, all in one place.

Steve


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RedRover*
> 
> So, I was hoping to clarify this, as I like to use X1 Pastels, and I just bought two of the MPS 400s. From this, it looks like AQ says it contains glycerol (which is propylene glycol).
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Daggi*
> 
> I got answers from Aqua Computer today regarding the three MPS 400 flowmeters which stopped working. Since I use Mayhems X1 coolant, it is the most likely cause for the sensors to stop working after a while. The reason is that the X1 coolant contains glycerol and membrane inside the sensor can not withstand it.
> 
> 
> 
> Mayhems claims the following from their FAQ.
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Mayhems X1 Coolant is a clear standard coolant that comes in many colours. It is a alternative coolant that does not use glycol in any form.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> "Any form", to me, would mean any of glycol's chemical forms, including propylene glycol, a.k.a. glycerol.
> 
> However, the XT-1 product does appear to use ethylene glycol.
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Mayhem XT-1 Coolant is a High Efficiency, Non-Toxic, Low Viscosity coolant based on Ethylene Glycol.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> @Shoggy, can you confirm or deny that Mayhems X1 is somehow culpable in MPS 400 failures? If this is truly the case, is it possible Aquacomputer would update the MPS 400 to use a more chemically resistant membrane material?
> 
> I think I will post on the Mayhems forum for clarification from them, as well.
> 
> Thanks,
> Steve
Click to expand...

They just source the sensor and install it


----------



## Maxxamillion

I'm trying to install Aquasuit 2017-1.3 on a fresh windows 10 install and after I click install on the Aquasuite program it says "Download failed. Please try again later." Any ideas?


----------



## Maxxamillion

I figured it out, time was wrong.


----------



## wa3pnt

*Farbwerk to control Corsair HD120 LED Fans*

I searched the forum and did not find any discussion on the capability/feasibility of the Farbwerk controlling the LEDs on the Corsair HD120 LED Fans.

Has anyone investigated whether this is possible?

RodeoGeorge


----------



## iCrap

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RedRover*
> 
> Thanks for this!
> For something like this, I'd use Google Sketchup to do a 2D profile, then import it into vCarve Pro to define the toolpaths and generate the gcode. IIRC, vcarve desktop is relatively inexpensive; I think size is the only real difference than the pro version, maybe 24x24 vs unlimited sheet size. Of course you could do it all in vcarve, but dimensioning tools are not as easy as sketchup. Sketchup Make is free, and super easy to use.
> 
> Since you're familiar with Solidworks, you should check out Fusion 360. It's free for 'enthusiasts', and does the CAD, CAM, and can generate the gCode, all in one place.
> 
> Steve


I tried fusion 360 before but it was a little confusing to me. Maybe i just need to watch some youtube videos about it and learn it. I really wish i could just export my part from solidworks into something which could auto-make the gcode.
Thanks!


----------



## Kenjiro

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> 50 50 shot but the new ones are already modded on the pcb from factory


Thanks


----------



## Mega Man

Just for further clarification

Eks are. And ac makes one that is


----------



## iCrap

I just went to update my software to the newest version and you now have to pay for it? I get development costs and all that... but this is some crap.

Can someone explain how it works? What are the new features?

If i have to buy a new license every year that sucks. I'm gone as a customer if that's the case.


----------



## Mega Man

you dont have to pay


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> Detailed information about the licensing in English will follow. So far I did a rough overview with the most important stuff to know:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ok, one foggy thing so your licenses transfer products correct ?
> ( using imaginary ideas )
> { question one }
> IE one of divas builds. has 5 xts she buys a 6th. - when she downloads 2018 or 2019, does that license now work for the other 5 ?
> 
> or lets say people have the d5 usb- does the license transfer from a new 6xt to 2018?
> 
> or is the license per product {end question one}
> { question Two }
> if we "make" a 6 lt from a 6xt do we still get the free upgrades- ( i guess i am asking is the license linked to the SN or are you using a username / password )
> {end question two }
> {question 3}
> is the license one time use ( IE ONE PC- with pc meaning by the mobo like OEM windows ? )
> or just one pc can use it at a time.
> or is a license a "household" license that can be used on many pcs
> { end question 3 }
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *cram501*
> 
> I don't have a problem paying for updated features in Aquasuite for an nominal fee... assuming it becomes stable. There are a number of bugs with the software that are irritating (missing graph data, hangs, and crashes). I can work around them but I'm less patient if I pay for the software (after I've already payed for the hardware). Since I don't have to pay for 2017, I'll keep an eye out on the new version to see if it is more stable.
> 
> Just installed the new version and if I click on System in the menu item Aquasuite at the bottom, it crashes. So right now I can't get to t he global settings.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> it stinks but i can 100% understand it.
> 
> we are asking more and more of them. now it is going to be like aida
> 
> they are doing far more then ever, mobile -
> 
> web views w.e. you want to call it
> 6 lt
> seems to me far more to come
> 
> with added support and added features - are added costs.
> 
> with added costs someone has to pay, if you think that a cost in a product is not passed on to the consumer, then you are wrong.
> 
> contrary to manys beliefs business do nothing for free. you pay for your warranty, you pay for your customer service, you pay for product theft, weather or not that theft was a " lost sale " ( ie they would not of bought the product they stole )
> 
> company are for profit, they should be, and without for profit, we would not have the advancements we have.
> 
> for me this is a welcome addition, but now as it is a paid service, even to those without paying ( the included licenses.) there is a far higher standard. the problems need to be fixed, lets hope this happens.
Click to expand...

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> To those not understating why we had to go this route:
> 
> The problem with the free software so far is that many of the older customers receive free updates and support since almost six years now without purchasing anything new - and it would have been several more years for many of them if we would have not made that cut. The development costs a lot of time and money. With more and more features also more and more questions arrive at the support. We can not keep that "everything for free" thing alive for an eternity
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I want to remind everyone complaining about the licensing model that there have been some other devices like the aquaero in the past and almost all of them failed since their software support was close to non-existent... There have been devices that never saw a single update even though there were bugs in the software right from the start. So I think paying about 62 Cent per month in the 2-year license model will not really hurt when you can be assured that your Aqua Computer devices will still work correctly in the far away future and will likely have many new additional features too that were not available when you purchased the device.
> 
> There is also no need to continuously extend your license. You could also pause for a while and buy a new license later when there are new features available that your currently licensed version does not support but that you want to use.
> 
> I can list tons of expensive devices in our company made by multi-million dollar companies that did not even provide drivers from one Windows version to the next one. Or to stick with a more common problem that many of us know: paying a few hundred bucks for an Android smart phone and no further support after just a couple of months. Strangely nobody complains about stuff like that
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Since the topic bugs have been mentioned. Just a general note: we can only fix bugs that have been reported. Nobody should expect that a bug will be fixed in a future version by sitting around an waiting. That your installation shows a bug does not automatically mean that all others have that bug too - and even in this case it would still require at least one hero to report it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So if you encounter problems, than report them to our support! Include detailed information and screenshots or even a video if it makes sense. We already had customers with really weird problems that nobody else ever reported nor that we were able to reproduce and we still tried our best to help.
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> { question one }
> IE one of divas builds. has 5 xts she buys a 6th. - when she downloads 2018 or 2019, does that license now work for the other 5 ?
> 
> or lets say people have the d5 usb- does the license transfer from a new 6xt to 2018?
> 
> or is the license per product {end question one}
> { question Two }
> if we "make" a 6 lt from a 6xt do we still get the free upgrades- ( i guess i am asking is the license linked to the SN or are you using a username / password )
> {end question two }
> {question 3}
> is the license one time use ( IE ONE PC- with pc meaning by the mobo like OEM windows ? )
> or just one pc can use it at a time.
> or is a license a "household" license that can be used on many pcs
> { end question 3 }
> 
> 
> 
> Your license is for the software, not for the hardware. So as soon as you connect a device that has a liecense for a current aquasuite version, it also allows you to use all other compatible devices with this version. So in your Diva example, she would be able to use all her aquaeros till aquasuite 2019 as long as the newest device is still part of the system. If she removes this one the software can be still used like before BUT as soon as she updates the software or connects a new device (that has no current license) the software can not be used anymore. Of course she can still access the version(s) that the other five aquaeros are entitled for. Right now this would be at the aquasuite 2017 for her (since she already has XT devices).
> 
> The licensing system can not tell if your aquaero LT was born as a XT. To make sure to get the aquasuite 2017 license for such a device you must connect the display again *before* you run the downloader! If you run the download while the device is an LT, it will be registered with its serial number as an LT and this version is maybe not entitled for the aquasuite 2017 if it has a total runtime of more than 90 days. When you successfully register a license for this device, you can remove the display again since the license is bound to the serial number of the device and that one will not change if the display is removed.
> 
> As mentioned the license is bound to the serial number which means the device itself is your key that decides which versions you can use. So you can move that device from one PC to another without any problems. If you sell this device to someone else he will also get the license with it. This is something to keep in mind if you purchase a license. If you have several devices you must select one that will be registered for the new license. You should choose a device where you know that you will not sell it anytime soon. Just in case you sell it anyway and no other device is entitled for the current version too, than we are back at the situation with the Diva example.
> 
> With clearer words: you only need a single device with a valid license for the latest software to be able to use all other compatible devices too (no matter how old they are). So in the end one with currently no valid license for 2017 should also consider if it might make more sense to purchase a VISION for example which already comes with a 2-year license and serves for all other products rather than just purchasing the naked license. So upgrading the license by purchasing small gadgets for example is definitely the better deal.
> 
> And just again to be sure that everyone got it: every device will get at least the aquasuite 2016-5 that can be installed as many times you want and can be also used as long as you want. The same is true for all later versions if you do not extend the license. You will never run into a case were you can not use a device because it will always have a license for a specific aquasuite version.
Click to expand...





you just dont get access to the new features


----------



## iCrap

Ok but what actually are the new features?
I find it ridiculous that my aq 6 dosen't get the new features. I bought it not even that long ago.... they should at least do 17' for free. And the 90 days uptime free update is also kind of dumb.


----------



## GTXJackBauer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iCrap*
> 
> Ok but what actually are the new features?
> I find it ridiculous that my aq 6 dosen't get the new features. I bought it not even that long ago.... they should at least do 17' for free. And the 90 days uptime free update is also kind of dumb.


Which AQ6 do you have? XT should get 2017 for free which mine did but than again, I did just recently added a Farbwerk to the mix on top of the other I have so not sure if that played a role in getting 2017 for free.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iCrap*
> 
> Ok but what actually are the new features?
> I find it ridiculous that my aq 6 dosen't get the new features. I bought it not even that long ago.... they should at least do 17' for free. And the 90 days uptime free update is also kind of dumb.


idk sorry /


----------



## iCrap

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GTXJackBauer*
> 
> Which AQ6 do you have? XT should get 2017 for free which mine did but than again, I did just recently added a Farbwerk to the mix on top of the other I have so not sure if that played a role in getting 2017 for free.


I have the Pro and they said you only get a free upgrade if it has less than 90 days runtime on the unit. Mine has like 200 something. 90 days is nothing especially since most of us probably leave our PCs on all the time.


----------



## ChiTownButcher

So if I am understanding this correctly we have to pay about $15 every two years for a license that allows us software updates and patches. If at any time we are happy with how its working we can just "freeze" our Aquaero as its functioning. If later there is a new feature we want we can subscribe again for two years presumably at the rate of $15 for two more years? Or does the Aquaro just stop working if we are not under a membership?


----------



## iCrap

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ChiTownButcher*
> 
> So if I am understanding this correctly we have to pay about $15 every two years for a license that allows us software updates and patches. If at any time we are happy with how its working we can just "freeze" our Aquaero as its functioning. If later there is a new feature we want we can subscribe again for two years presumably at the rate of $15 for two more years? Or does the Aquaro just stop working if we are not under a membership?


Every 1 year i think. And if you don't pay you get stuck on 2016-5 forever.
Not even sure if it freezes at whatever one you last pay at, or if it stops working after the license expires. I think it's absurd especially considering the hardware itself is not cheap. I'll keep using my aq6, but I won't be buying any more AQ devices again.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ChiTownButcher*
> 
> So if I am understanding this correctly we have to pay about $15 every two years for a license that allows us software updates and patches. If at any time we are happy with how its working we can just "freeze" our Aquaero as its functioning. If later there is a new feature we want we can subscribe again for two years presumably at the rate of $15 for two more years? Or does the Aquaro just stop working if we are not under a membership?


correct
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iCrap*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *ChiTownButcher*
> 
> So if I am understanding this correctly we have to pay about $15 every two years for a license that allows us software updates and patches. If at any time we are happy with how its working we can just "freeze" our Aquaero as its functioning. If later there is a new feature we want we can subscribe again for two years presumably at the rate of $15 for two more years? Or does the Aquaro just stop working if we are not under a membership?
> 
> 
> 
> Every 1 year i think. And if you don't pay you get stuck on 2016-5 forever.
> Not even sure if it freezes at whatever one you last pay at, or if it stops working after the license expires. I think it's absurd especially considering the hardware itself is not cheap.
> 
> I'll keep using my aq6, but I won't be buying any more AQ devices again.
Click to expand...

please reread this

also the major bug WILL get patched even on 2016 your license does not expire, you get it for the years purchased.

personally i think you are making it a far bigger deal then needed... it is easy i hardly even open the program. so ............ who cares ?

@Shoggy please make another multi-switch type devicew, i just want a relay bank ... that i can control with my aquaero !!!!!


----------



## ChiTownButcher

$15 for two years is not bad so long as when it expires my Aquaero still works how I program it. Now to figure out what parts in addition to the 6xt I will need to do what I want to


----------



## RedRover

After reading the FAQ on their website, this doesn't look so bad. Also, if you buy ANY qualifying product during that 2-year period, you are re-upped for another 2 years. Looks to be quite a few accessories that qualify, not just the controller.

https://forum.aquacomputer.de/weitere-foren/english-forum/107406-new-aquasuite-2017-licensing-system/

For example, I'll probably end up buying replacement MPS 400s every so often, which qualifies, so I'll always be in the cycle.

Steve


----------



## Jflisk

Well considering I have the AQ 5 LT and have had it for about 2 years , paying for software support is fine by me . Considering there are many fan controllers and lcd displays that have fallen out of support over the years.. The AQ is the only game in the game, used by professional builders and modders.


----------



## Costas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RedRover*
> 
> So, I was hoping to clarify this, as I like to use X1 Pastels, and I just bought two of the MPS 400s. From this, it looks like AQ says it contains glycerol (which is propylene glycol).
> Mayhems claims the following from their FAQ.
> "Any form", to me, would mean any of glycol's chemical forms, including propylene glycol, a.k.a. glycerol.
> 
> However, the XT-1 product does appear to use ethylene glycol.
> @Shoggy, can you confirm or deny that Mayhems X1 is somehow culpable in MPS 400 failures? If this is truly the case, is it possible Aquacomputer would update the MPS 400 to use a more chemically resistant membrane material?
> 
> I think I will post on the Mayhems forum for clarification from them, as well.
> 
> Thanks,
> Steve


Hmmm not sure if Glycol is your problem. I do know of a few MPS sensors that have failed for various people - most that I can recall were not running glycol based coolants of any sort.

On the flip side, my current build is utilising glycol (auto coolant @ approx. 6% ethelyne glycol strength) and the MPS400 in that build has been running fine since early last year.


----------



## Revan654

Any stores stocking any of the Vision products yet? Like the table top unit? I can't seem to find any place that stocks them & Aqua-Computer Web Store is Sold out with ETA of stock being a month or more.


----------



## rolldog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GTXJackBauer*
> 
> I use a 3rd party software that specializes in multi-screen configurations called DisplayFusion Pro that places certain things on certain screens. Of course you'll have to program it to do so under their Settings --> Window's Management tab.
> 
> Here's an example. As you can see, when the system comes on, I have the windows exactly where I want to them to be without moving them. Only issue I have is, I have to manually open the tabs up as I had them before.


I use this same software. It works great. Now though, I bought a 55" LG OLED 4K HDR TV to use as my monitor. During Christmas, you could buy these TVs for less than half the price they normally sell for. Now I'm just trying to decide if I should hook 1, 2, or 3 of my 4K monitors up along with the LG. I found some wall mounts that are articulating and can hold 2 monitors at a time. I was considering having these smaller monitors dedicated to hardware temp monitoring, etc.


----------



## rolldog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *InfoSeeker*
> 
> [*] If I may suggest a SPLITTY9 for the aquabus spiltter... very compact.
> 
> [*] Agreed, you may not be getting the best result there, plus the pump generates heat also. Maybe try THIS or THAT in the loop?
> [/list]


Ever since Aquacomputer released the SPLITTY9 and the HUBBY7, I've been using one of each. They work very well, and if you have multiple Aquacomputer devices, you can mount them close to the Aquaero, which will keep everything looking clean and not have multiple wires running everywhere.


----------



## rolldog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> Is it possible to connect two Aquaero 6 XT or run two 6 XT without an issue?


I'm running 2 x Aquaero 6XTs, 3 x Poweradjust Ultras, and 2 x Farbwerks with no problem.


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rolldog*
> 
> I'm running 2 x Aquaero 6XTs, 3 x Poweradjust Ultras, and 2 x Farbwerks with no problem.


That's allot of hardware just in Controllers. Can only imagine what it's powering.

I did grab one the other Day, Just have to rework the front of my Case-Lab setup now.


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Costas*
> 
> Hmmm not sure if Glycol is your problem. I do know of a few MPS sensors that have failed for various people - most that I can recall were not running glycol based coolants of any sort.
> 
> On the flip side, my current build is utilising glycol (auto coolant @ approx. 6% ethelyne glycol strength) and the MPS400 in that build has been running fine since early last year.


That is one clean build, Nice work. Your build did give me an idea on my upcoming build.


----------



## Shoggy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iCrap*
> 
> And if you don't pay you get stuck on 2016-5 forever.
> Not even sure if it freezes at whatever one you last pay at, or if it stops working after the license expires. I think it's absurd especially considering the hardware itself is not cheap. I'll keep using my aq6, but I won't be buying any more AQ devices again.


If you do not continue to pay you will stuck with the version that you had paid for so far - so this must not be 2016; could be also 2018 for example or something else in the future.

Of course the device will always work because the license is for the aquasuite software and not for the hardware.


----------



## Costas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> That is one clean build, Nice work. Your build did give me an idea on my upcoming build.


Thanks - glad you got something useful out of it....


----------



## Andrew LB

Well I finally pulled the trigger and bought an Aquaero 5 LT for my custom loop. I haven't actually installed it yet because i'm waiting on an mps flow meter and in-line temp sensors, but have tested it outside my PC and am thoroughly impressed. I had a general idea of how extensive aquasuite was prior to now and even so, i'm really impressed with all the features this software is able to do. I plan on running 3x Fractal Venturi HP-12 PWM fans for my top rad, 2x HP-14 for the front rad, and still haven't decided on the rear exhaust which ill be removing the metal mesh from my enthoo pro m so the airflow is unobstructed, allowing me to use a higher speed fan. Any suggestions for a 140mm fan with high CFM for this location while having a max of about 2000rpm?

On a side note, i've been testing a few of the 120mm fans i own just to see how each of them sound while running at identical speeds and i don't care what people say, those Noctua IPPC 3,000 fans are just obnoxious even dialed down to 1800 to match the speed of my Fractal Venturi HP-12's. The fractal fans have a much better tone and they feel like they're pushing more air.

Also, I have a 6,400 rpm, 240 cfm San Ace 9GV1212P1J091 with a 4 pin pwm connector and wanted to know if this Aquaero 5 LT could be used with this cable to power the fan off the PSU while hooking the RPM and pwm wire to the aquaero?

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIA9F94RP0175&cm_re=molex_splitter-_-9SIA9F94RP0175-_-Product

I really want to see how that beast of a fan performs when dialed back to 1500-2000 rpm


----------



## Mega Man

Yes, however the 5lt only has 1pwm channel. Which it sounds like you are going to use.


----------



## Andrew LB

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> Yes, however the 5lt only has 1pwm channel. Which it sounds like you are going to use.


Oh i know. I was just going to test out this beast by itself to see how it sounds dialed down. I was amazed how slow the Aquaero was able to get that IPPC 3000 fan. I honestly see that San Ace fan as a novelty. The torque is amazing when you fire the thing up and the sound... well... you can hear it down the street im sure. lol. I may actually put it in my MIG welder now that i think about it.


----------



## Alexinonyx

Hello all,
I have a problem with my Aquaero 5 XT when I'am trying to control fan by PWM.
I connected my fan (Thermalright TY-147) to 4th aquaero fan connector and chose "PWM controled" setting on Fan page. But my fan is working on full speed and don't react on changing maximum power value, the RPM are always maximum. If I chose Power or Speed controlled fan is controlling perfect.

There is a screenshot from aquasuite:

As you can see the Power is 60% but Rotation speed is 1264rpm, and it's not change.

And I found another interesting thing. When I measure the voltage between 1st and 4th pins on my motherboard fan socket I have about 4.3V on 100% PWM and about 2V on 50% PWM settings. But when I do the same with aquaero PWM fan socket I have about 4.8V always. Can it be the trouble with aquaero hardware? And is it any hope to solve it?


----------



## GTXJackBauer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alexinonyx*
> 
> Hello all,
> I have a problem with my Aquaero 5 XT when I'am trying to control fan by PWM.
> I connected my fan (Thermalright TY-147) to 4th aquaero fan connector and chose "PWM controled" setting on Fan page. But my fan is working on full speed and don't react on changing maximum power value, the RPM are always maximum. If I chose Power or Speed controlled fan is controlling perfect.
> 
> There is a screenshot from aquasuite:
> 
> As you can see the Power is 60% but Rotation speed is 1264rpm, and it's not change.
> 
> And I found another interesting thing. When I measure the voltage between 1st and 4th pins on my motherboard fan socket I have about 4.3V on 100% PWM and about 2V on 50% PWM settings. But when I do the same with aquaero PWM fan socket I have about 4.8V always. Can it be the trouble with aquaero hardware? And is it any hope to solve it?


The AQ 5's only have the first header as PWM. The rest are voltage controlled. The AQ 6 on the other hand has all PWM headers.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GTXJackBauer*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Alexinonyx*
> 
> Hello all,
> I have a problem with my Aquaero 5 XT when I'am trying to control fan by PWM.
> I connected my fan (Thermalright TY-147) to 4th aquaero fan connector and chose "PWM controled" setting on Fan page. But my fan is working on full speed and don't react on changing maximum power value, the RPM are always maximum. If I chose Power or Speed controlled fan is controlling perfect.
> 
> There is a screenshot from aquasuite:
> 
> As you can see the Power is 60% but Rotation speed is 1264rpm, and it's not change.
> 
> And I found another interesting thing. When I measure the voltage between 1st and 4th pins on my motherboard fan socket I have about 4.3V on 100% PWM and about 2V on 50% PWM settings. But when I do the same with aquaero PWM fan socket I have about 4.8V always. Can it be the trouble with aquaero hardware? And is it any hope to solve it?
> 
> 
> 
> The AQ 5's only have the first header as PWM. The rest are voltage controlled. The AQ 6 on the other hand has all PWM headers.
Click to expand...

to add to the above .you can not test for pwm voltage like that.

it can freakout cheap meters,

you need to use a scope if you want to test pwm. iirc it diva said there was a good rasb pi one that was around 20 or 50 or w.e. that would work ok enough for what we would need


----------



## Andrew LB

So here is a short video of my Aquaero 5 LT putting a 120x38mm San Ace 6400rpm 224cfm ear bleeder through its paces. Fan is powered from 4 pin molex from power supply with pwm and rpm split off and plugged into the AQ5. And i thought the Panaflo 120 U1A fans i used to own were loud.


----------



## Alexinonyx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GTXJackBauer*
> 
> The AQ 5's only have the first header as PWM. The rest are voltage controlled. The AQ 6 on the other hand has all PWM headers.


OK, and where am I wrong?

As you see, 4th fan header is the only 4 pin PWM Fan header and I am using it.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> to add to the above .you can not test for pwm voltage like that.
> 
> it can freakout cheap meters,
> 
> you need to use a scope if you want to test pwm. iirc it diva said there was a good rasb pi one that was around 20 or 50 or w.e. that would work ok enough for what we would need


Yes, I understand that I need to measure signal with oscilloscope for full and objective understanding. But even my rough measurements make me think it's something wrong with PWM control on my AQ in comparison with my 100% working MB.
Anyway, it does not really matter. The main issue is that PWM control is not working, and I can't change speed of my fan with selected "PWM controlled" option, fan always works at full speed.


----------



## RDKing2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alexinonyx*
> 
> OK, and where am I wrong?
> 
> As you see, 4th fan header is the only 4 pin PWM Fan header and I am using it.
> Yes, I understand that I need to measure signal with oscilloscope for full and objective understanding. But even my rough measurements make me think it's something wrong with PWM control on my AQ in comparison with my 100% working MB.
> Anyway, it does not really matter. The main issue is that PWM control is not working, and I can't change speed of my fan with selected "PWM controlled" option, fan always works at full speed.


I see the controller is set up. Did you add the device to the controller? (Fan4). Been a while since I had my computer up and running, but I believe the controller shows the devices it controls to the right.


----------



## Alexinonyx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RDKing2*
> 
> I see the controller is set up. Did you add the device to the controller? (Fan4). Been a while since I had my computer up and running, but I believe the controller shows the devices it controls to the right.


Yes, of course. Fan 4 added by default to Fan preset controller, and I also tried to add it to other custom controllers. But it's no response. I can see that power value for this fan changes correctly but the speed of the fan stays maximum.


----------



## Alexinonyx

It's really strange but now all is working OK. I just removed display module and radiator to check fan header path, and now fan is controlling by PWM normally. I can't really understand why now it's working and why it wasn't earlier.


----------



## RedRover

I have a few questions for @IT Diva, or whoever knows about the Diva Mod for the non-standard PWM D5 pumps.

I'll be able to see the back of the AQ6, and I wanted it to look as clean as possible, soooo.... I was going to make a very small pcb and put the mod inside the pump housing, since it's pretty cave-like in there.

Can I borrow power from the existing +12v and ground inside the pump (from the molex)? Or, do I need to use the +12v and ground from the pwm header for this to work (meaning a couple of extra 22ga wires coming out of the pump to the PWM header, which is no big deal).

Or, am I completely on the wrong track and utterly confused?



Note: I have Alphacool PWM pumps, where the green and blue wires seem to be reversed. Not sure why they decided to do that.

Thanks,
Steve


----------



## RedRover

Oh yeah, @IT Diva.... Can you add me to the club, too? I got a few goodies while I was in FL.



2 - 6 Pro's
2 - MPS 400's
1 - Farbwerks

and a few extra things, too.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RedRover*
> 
> I have a few questions for @IT Diva, or whoever knows about the Diva Mod for the non-standard PWM D5 pumps.
> 
> I'll be able to see the back of the AQ6, and I wanted it to look as clean as possible, soooo.... I was going to make a very small pcb and put the mod inside the pump housing, since it's pretty cave-like in there.
> 
> Can I borrow power from the existing +12v and ground inside the pump (from the molex)? Or, do I need to use the +12v and ground from the pwm header for this to work (meaning a couple of extra 22ga wires coming out of the pump to the PWM header, which is no big deal).
> 
> Or, am I completely on the wrong track and utterly confused?
> 
> 
> 
> Note: I have Alphacool PWM pumps, where the green and blue wires seem to be reversed. Not sure why they decided to do that.
> 
> Thanks,
> Steve


As long as it is the same psu as the mobo you will be fine


----------



## RedRover

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> As long as it is the same psu as the mobo you will be fine


Thanks!

Edit: Just thought of something... It almost certainly WILL NOT be on the same power rail. Is that still OK?

Edit 2: Doh... I can make this work as a single rail PSU. Nothing to see here, move along. These are not the droids you're looking for.


----------



## s74r1

Is it just me or is the AQ6 supposed to have a hissing/whistling coil whine? I notice it when the room is silent. Or is there anything I can do to mitigate this? At first I thought it might be the LCD but even turning it down to 0% didn't reduce the coil whine... I'm thinking of buying the AQ6 heatsink to hopefully mask the sound with thermal pads.

*Model:* Aquaero 6 Pro
*Connections used:* Molex 4pin power, 4x fan outputs configured for PWM split to 2 fans each (8x fans), USB connected to internal header (unplugging doesn't help), 4x temp sensors in use, CMOS/RTC battery module also installed.


----------



## JasonMorris

Hi Diva,
Please add me to the club as well.

thanks


----------



## fast_fate

Aquaero 5 Water Block Plumbing









She's fully wired up and along with the Power Adjust is ready to take control of 2 pumps and 25 fans with 5 temp sensors (3 x Coolant and 2 x Air In for averaged virtual sensors) to set up a fan curve with.


----------



## ruffhi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *s74r1*
> 
> Is it just me or is the AQ6 supposed to have a hissing/whistling coil whine? I notice it when the room is silent. Or is there anything I can do to mitigate this? At first I thought it might be the LCD but even turning it down to 0% didn't reduce the coil whine... I'm thinking of buying the AQ6 heatsink to hopefully mask the sound with thermal pads.
> 
> *Model:* Aquaero 6 Pro
> *Connections used:* Molex 4pin power, 4x fan outputs configured for PWM split to 2 fans each (8x fans), USB connected to internal header (unplugging doesn't help), 4x temp sensors in use, CMOS/RTC battery module also installed.


That has been seen before. Here is a post that provides a solution (from Shoggy / aquacomputing) ...
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MR-e*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *ruffhi*
> 
> Did one of us have coil whine on their Aquaero? Someone asked about whine on their Aquaero in the Aquaero thread.
> 
> 
> 
> Yes, it was me! Shoggy told me to desolder a component at the back of the pcb and it fixed up that whine like it never happened
Click to expand...


----------



## miller330i

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ruffhi*
> 
> That has been seen before. Here is a post that provides a solution (from Shoggy / aquacomputing) ...


Is this there on the 6xt as well? Thanks!


----------



## AllGamer

So, I started tested my EK radiators for leak using *Dr. Drop*

while a some radiators tested fine, some others showed like sign of leak

but I wanted to verify how much leak is passable,

Dr. Drop max is gauge level is *0.6 bar* and some leak doesn't go past *0.5 bar*

is that an acceptable loss of air pressure?


----------



## Mega Man

Was the pump left connected


----------



## spyui

Hello, do you guys think Aquaero 5 LT is enough to power 14 3 pin fans ? the fan i am going to use is Silent wings 3 High speed 140mm.


----------



## AllGamer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> Was the pump left connected


nope, disconnected

I found out what was the problem.

the G1/4 spacer were not tightened fully, leak stopped after I fastened it harder.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *spyui*
> 
> Hello, do you guys think Aquaero 5 LT is enough to power 14 3 pin fans ? the fan i am going to use is Silent wings 3 High speed 140mm.


You would want the total amp draw including start up current, less then 2.5a, and you would want a heatsink or Water block. If you get a 6 you would need neither.

I would recommend at least getting a 6


----------



## RedRover

Can someone with a Case Labs SMA8 help me out with a question. I was thinking of replacing my 480 and 240 in the bottom with a 560/280 setup. I was going to put my two AQ6 Pros in the bottom flex bays, and it looks like I'll have plenty of room for that, but I'm not sure If I'd have the room if I went with the larger rads.

Thanks,
Steve


----------



## Master Chicken

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RedRover*
> 
> Can someone with a Case Labs SMA8 help me out with a question. I was thinking of replacing my 480 and 240 in the bottom with a 560/280 setup. I was going to put my two AQ6 Pros in the bottom flex bays, and it looks like I'll have plenty of room for that, but I'm not sure If I'd have the room if I went with the larger rads.
> 
> Thanks,
> Steve


Ooops, I replied but then I realized you were talking SMA8 and not an S8 like mine.


----------



## Barefooter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RedRover*
> 
> Can someone with a Case Labs SMA8 help me out with a question. I was thinking of replacing my 480 and 240 in the bottom with a 560/280 setup. I was going to put my two AQ6 Pros in the bottom flex bays, and it looks like I'll have plenty of room for that, but I'm not sure If I'd have the room if I went with the larger rads.
> 
> Thanks,
> Steve


You might get a better response asking in the Case Labs Owners Club. Many owners there are running an aquaero too.
http://www.overclock.net/t/940461/official-case-labs-owners-club


----------



## RedRover

OK, so I just completed a tiny prototype Diva Mod PCB that I will be putting inside the pump housing. Before I go and solder it up to the pump, I wanted to make sure I did this right.

The wire attached to the zener will go to GND.
The wire attached to the larger resistor will go to +12VDC
The one that has no wire will be spliced into the PWM Control wire, which on my pump is the green wire. On the header it's the outside wire opposite GND.

The blue wire (RPM sense) remains untouched.

So, I've not had much experience soldering onto a PCB, but I'm sure the soldering job will work out OK, maybe, hopefully.


----------



## galletabah

omg! :


----------



## RedRover

Round Two!

Still hoping someone can confirm I wired this up right. Don't really want to blow up my pump as @galletabah so delicately pointed out.

Prototype v2 looks a lot better. I mounted the resistors and the zener diode a little further apart, and I pre-heated the insulation on the wires so it 'crushed' down on the PCB when I pushed the wire through; no more exposed wires.



The PCB is borrowed from an old 3-pin ModMyToys fan splitter. Which works out great since the holes are already in the PCB and I could make it really small. I did a better job of scratching off the traces on the back this time, too.



A little glob of hot melt glue and it's ready for wiring. I'm gonna hold off on cutting wires and soldering to the pump till someone a little smarter than me can confirm this is A-OK.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RedRover*
> 
> Round Two!
> 
> Still hoping someone can confirm I wired this up right. Don't really want to blow up my pump as @galletabah so delicately pointed out.
> 
> Prototype v2 looks a lot better. I mounted the resistors and the zener diode a little further apart, and I pre-heated the insulation on the wires so it 'crushed' down on the PCB when I pushed the wire through; no more exposed wires.
> 
> 
> 
> The PCB is borrowed from an old 3-pin ModMyToys fan splitter. Which works out great since the holes are already in the PCB and I could make it really small. I did a better job of scratching off the traces on the back this time, too.
> 
> 
> 
> A little glob of hot melt glue and it's ready for wiring. I'm gonna hold off on cutting wires and soldering to the pump till someone a little smarter than me can confirm this is A-OK.


It looks good to go . . .

You can apply 12V from a PSU and check for 5V from the smaller resistor to ground with a multimeter, just to maker sure you have everything soldered securely where you bridged the 3 parts together at the far end.


----------



## RedRover

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> It looks good to go . . .
> 
> You can apply 12V from a PSU and check for 5V from the smaller resistor to ground with a multimeter, just to maker sure you have everything soldered securely where you bridged the 3 parts together at the far end.


Thank you!! Now I just need to dig out my very old multimeter. I think it's a Fluke model 7? something, back from the 80's. I don't think I've used it since college, lol. Hopefully I didn't leave batteries in it.


----------



## RedRover

OK, don't know if my multimeter is broken or just needs calibration (not sending a 25 y/o multimeter in for a $100 calibration)... but...

I'm using a crappy external power supply that I use to turn on my pumps for filling and whatnot, it's output is steady at 12.44VDC.
Reading 7.29VDC at the small resistor.
Reading 12.44VDC at the zener.

I tried this on all 3 PCBs I made and they all fall with a few hundredths of each other (7.27-7.29). I guess I was expecting it to be pretty close to +5VDC.

Sooooo, Did I use the wrong resistor somewhere?
The small one is a 3.3k Ohm 1/4 Watt, going to PWM control.
The larger is a 560 Ohm 1/2 Watt, going to +12VDC.
The zener goes back to GND, and I'm pretty sure it's in the correct direction.


----------



## Master Chicken

It's possible that you're not fully past the knee current for the zener diode you've used. Do you have a 330 ohm 1/2 watt resistor lying around by chance?



I've included a graphic from the web that shows the knee of a zener diode. The knee is the yellow shaded zone. In this chart, the diode in question is fully past the knee at 5ma. Your diode needs more than 5ma apparently ... probably 20ma or so. Lowering the value of the series resistor will increase the current and get you past the knee and fully into the zener region.

Do you know what the test current is for the diode you used? Part number perhaps? Most 1/2 watt through-hole zeners in the lower voltage ranges have a 20ma test current I believe. I'd have to check.

It just dawned on me that you could be measuring it incorrectly. If the zener (+/- 5%) is properly regulating, you would have about 7.3 volts of drop across the 560 ohm resistor (12.44v - 5.1v). Could that be a mistake you're making when you measured?


----------



## RedRover

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Master Chicken*
> 
> It's possible that you're not fully past the knee current for the zener diode you've used. Do you have a 330 ohm 1/2 watt resistor lying around by chance?
> 
> Do you know what the test current is for the diode you used? Part number perhaps? Most 1/2 watt through-hole zeners in the lower voltage ranges have a 20ma test current I believe. I'd have to check.
> 
> It just dawned on me that you could be measuring it incorrectly. If the zener (+/- 5%) is properly regulating, you would have about 7.3 volts of drop across the 560 ohm resistor (12.44v - 5.1v). Could that be a mistake you're making when you measured?


Mistakes on my part are a daily occurrence, so I wouldn't be surprised if it was my lack of competence







As I mentioned, I haven't pulled out this thing in decades, so I'm pretty rusty.

I have a handful of resistors and diodes from a cheap Chinese multi pack kit, no documentation at all. I spent an hour on Digi-Keys color calc website just sorting out the codes for the various bits.
I just looked and don't have a 330 1/2 in the bag.
I have no clue what test current was used. I didn't get much with this kit, just a loose baggy full of various resistors.

Since it's likely I am doing something wrong, here are the measurements I took, give or take a few hundredths across the three I built; they are all very close.



All measurements taken with:
A1 = GND
A2 = +12.44VDC applied
A3 = loose, nothing connected here
B = Bridged on the back of the PCB

A1 to A2 = 12.44VDC
A1 to A3 = 5.20VDC
A2 to A3 = 7.22VDC
A1 to B = 5.21VDC
A2 to B = 7.23VDC
A3 to B = 0VDC (expected, no current)

So... I probably misinterpreted what I was supposed to measure, I hadn't had my coffee when I did it this morning. I do get 5.20VDC from ground to the PWM control.

Thanks so much for everyone's help!!

Steve


----------



## Master Chicken

As A1 to A2 is 5.20 volts, you're perfectly fine and it should operate as built.

The A2 to B that gives you 7.22v is probably what you were getting before and that's fine as well for that measure. Notice that 5.20 plus 7.22 is 12.44 volts.

What people call 5 volt zeners are almost always 5.1 volt and with a common +/- 5% tolerance. You can get tighter tolerances but there is no need for this application.

Well done.


----------



## Fathardie

Hea everyone!

In the near future I will probably buy and install an Aquaero 6 into my system. Right now I am doing all the planning work. I got this weird idea to hook up some single-colour LEDs to a fan channel in order to control their brightness. However, they are 5V LEDs while PWM usually does 12V. However, I saw that the Aquaero 6 has full support for 3-pins as well so would it be able to switch between 5V and 12V? If so, how does this configuration work? If anyone has any experience on the subject, any help would be appreciated!

Thanks in advance!


----------



## Mega Man

You would need to voltage control the fan Channel. And at it at 5v or w.e. you want, however why not use resistors? (And the pwm channel


----------



## Fathardie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> You would need to voltage control the fan Channel. And at it at 5v or w.e. you want, however why not use resistors? (And the pwm channel


Hi Megaman! Thanks! I had a similar idea last night before I went to bed (as always...) xD. Can the PWM channel (pin 4) on the PWM headers also deliver the 30 Watt? Or is just the 12V constant pin? Because if the PWM channel is capable, it can of course also be used as the supply for the LEDs like you said. Then I would hook up the led straight to the PWM pin and the ground pin.

You also mentioned a resistor. As the PWM pin is max 5V and the LED's are max 5V rated, would I still need to add a resistor? (My electrical engineering knowledge is abominable but I am learning







)

Thank you!


----------



## s74r1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ruffhi*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *s74r1*
> 
> Is it just me or is the AQ6 supposed to have a hissing/whistling coil whine? I notice it when the room is silent. Or is there anything I can do to mitigate this? At first I thought it might be the LCD but even turning it down to 0% didn't reduce the coil whine... I'm thinking of buying the AQ6 heatsink to hopefully mask the sound with thermal pads.
> 
> *Model:* Aquaero 6 Pro
> *Connections used:* Molex 4pin power, 4x fan outputs configured for PWM split to 2 fans each (8x fans), USB connected to internal header (unplugging doesn't help), 4x temp sensors in use, CMOS/RTC battery module also installed.
> 
> 
> 
> That has been seen before. Here is a post that provides a solution (from Shoggy / aquacomputing) ...
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *MR-e*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *ruffhi*
> 
> Did one of us have coil whine on their Aquaero? Someone asked about whine on their Aquaero in the Aquaero thread.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Yes, it was me! Shoggy told me to desolder a component at the back of the pcb and it fixed up that whine like it never happened
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
Click to expand...

Thanks! That solved all of my coil whine, finally I have silence!







. +Rep

Curious though why that component is there, it looks like a resistor that was added on after mass production (It still had wet looking flux residue). It seems it was connected to the buzzer, I haven't used the buzzer but curious of any adverse effects.

@MR-e: Do you have any idea what that resistor is for and/or why it's there? I don't suppose @Shoggy went into any details (like any adverse effects, loss of functionality, etc) Or maybe it was for the now obsolete Aquabus Low?

Edit: Markings seem to be "1801" meaning 1.8kΩ resistor. Hmm...

Edit2: Nevermind, after much searching this thread I found the answer. Sorry for @mentioning people.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MR-e*
> 
> As per Shoggy, it's definitely that resister. If anyone suffers from whine, you can safely remove it yourself and it will not affect warranty. I asked about advanced rma, but no bueno
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> "Hello,
> 
> yes, I meant this part. This resistor was added manually especially to fix a possible problem with the buzzer not working correctly (mainly being too silent). In you case it causes just the opposite: the speaker can be slightly heard all the time.
> 
> You can also send in the device but we have no option to exchange that in advance so you would have to return it to Germany and we would do nothing else as suggest: the resistor will be removed and the problem will be gone.
> 
> Of course it will not void the warranty if you remove it. If you are unsure about it you could also ask a friend who has experience with soldering - will be child's play for him/her
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> kind regards
> Sven"


Also, in case anyone else needs to perform this - it was quite easy with my $15 soldering iron from Amazon and some ChipQuik SMD1


----------



## Mega Man

Congrats
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fathardie*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> You would need to voltage control the fan Channel. And at it at 5v or w.e. you want, however why not use resistors? (And the pwm channel
> 
> 
> 
> Hi Megaman! Thanks! I had a similar idea last night before I went to bed (as always...) xD. Can the PWM channel (pin 4) on the PWM headers also deliver the 30 Watt? Or is just the 12V constant pin? Because if the PWM channel is capable, it can of course also be used as the supply for the LEDs like you said. Then I would hook up the led straight to the PWM pin and the ground pin.
> 
> You also mentioned a resistor. As the PWM pin is max 5V and the LED's are max 5V rated, would I still need to add a resistor? (My electrical engineering knowledge is abominable but I am learning
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )
> 
> Thank you!
Click to expand...

Sorry I would be asking about that.

Iirc yes

The way it is explained to me leds once lit don't have a resistance and the resistor is to protect the led from too much amps ( no idea if this is true, DC components are not my forte. )

Otherwise it will burn out (if true the aq header would/ could be damaged as well)

@IT Diva?


----------



## rolldog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alexinonyx*
> 
> Hello all,
> I have a problem with my Aquaero 5 XT when I'am trying to control fan by PWM.
> I connected my fan (Thermalright TY-147) to 4th aquaero fan connector and chose "PWM controled" setting on Fan page. But my fan is working on full speed and don't react on changing maximum power value, the RPM are always maximum. If I chose Power or Speed controlled fan is controlling perfect.
> 
> There is a screenshot from aquasuite:
> 
> As you can see the Power is 60% but Rotation speed is 1264rpm, and it's not change.
> 
> And I found another interesting thing. When I measure the voltage between 1st and 4th pins on my motherboard fan socket I have about 4.3V on 100% PWM and about 2V on 50% PWM settings. But when I do the same with aquaero PWM fan socket I have about 4.8V always. Can it be the trouble with aquaero hardware? And is it any hope to solve it?


Well, just looking at this one page, you have the minimum fan speed set to 41% and the maximum fan speed set to 60%, which gives your fan only a 19% difference between running it at the slowest possible speed and the highest possible speed. If you set the fan controller on maximum power, it's only going to run at 60%, not 100%. If you set a wider range between min and max under fan settings, you'll have a larger variability of control and if you move the max slider up to 100%, then your fan will run between 40% at minimum and 100% at maximum. If I'm understanding you correctly, currently, when you run it at "full speed" it's going to max out at 60% of what the fan can really do.


----------



## rolldog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fathardie*
> 
> Hea everyone!
> 
> In the near future I will probably buy and install an Aquaero 6 into my system. Right now I am doing all the planning work. I got this weird idea to hook up some single-colour LEDs to a fan channel in order to control their brightness. However, they are 5V LEDs while PWM usually does 12V. However, I saw that the Aquaero 6 has full support for 3-pins as well so would it be able to switch between 5V and 12V? If so, how does this configuration work? If anyone has any experience on the subject, any help would be appreciated!
> 
> Thanks in advance!


I did the same, but I used Darkside LEDs. I have lots of individual LEDs and LED strips (all my waterblocks are plexi-nickel and have holes for 3mm and/or 5mm LEDs, depending on the block). Daz put together tons of wiring configurations depending on where you're putting them and how you want to power them. I'm running a cable from the Aquaero to a SPLITTY9 and then have all my LEDs running off of the SPLITTY9. All of Daz's Darkside LEDs are 12V, so no problems there. I wouldn't think the 5V would work, well, maybe if you have the power output set halfway.


----------



## Nameless101

Hello everyone, I would appreciate some help. I just recently got an Aquaero and have finally gotten my loop up and running. Before I built the loop I tested the Aquaero (6 LT) to make sure it's working and everything was fine. Now I've put together the loop and Windows 10 no longer recognises the Aquaero. I've tried switching USB cables and headers, as well as unplugging other USB devices (MPS flow and D5 pump), but nothing seems to make a difference. Anyone have any ideas what I could try to do?

EDIT: Sig rig motherboard is correct.


----------



## Fathardie

When you start up the system with the AQ hooked up, can you see anything in device manager? Maybe even an unknown device or something else funky?


----------



## Nameless101

In device manager I have 3 keyboards and 2 mice, but Aquasuite seems to think that the AQ is not connected. Have also tried uninstalling and reinstalling Aquasuite.

EDIT: the 3 keyboards and two mice add up to what I have connected via USB.


----------



## Nameless101

Ok, it's fixed now. Disconnected everything and only connected the bare minimum, works fine now!

EDIT: So everything is basically working fine, but I managed to isolate the problem. As soon as I connect the pump to the Aquaero via Aquabus (4 pin, high), it "shuts off" the Aquaero. Anyone know what could be causing this?


----------



## elcr9

I have a question about the silverstone pwm fan hub CPF04.

I would like to add an 3 pin fan adapter to the sata power cable, and plug this along with the pwm signal cable to my aq6 xt.
Then I would set the pwm fan cable's channel to pwm signal, and the 3 pin fan one to 100% voltage all the time in the aquasuite.
Would this setup work?

Thanks in advance.


----------



## apw63

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *elcr9*
> 
> I have a question about the silverstone pwm fan hub CPF04.
> 
> I would like to add an 3 pin fan adapter to the sata power cable, and plug this along with the pwm signal cable to my aq6 xt.
> Then I would set the pwm fan cable's channel to pwm signal, and the 3 pin fan one to 100% voltage all the time in the aquasuite.
> Would this setup work?
> 
> Thanks in advance.


Are you talking about removing the SATA power adapter from the CPF04. Replacing it with a 4 pin fan plug. So that you can power\control, your PWM fans from the Aquaero 6? If so this is what I did for my build. I cut off the SATA power adapter and repined the 2 12v leads with fan pins. I then put the 2 12v along with the PWM sense and RPM in to one 4 pin PWN fan plug. I power and control all of my 8 RAD fans from one Aquaero 6 fan header.


----------



## Andrew LB

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nameless101*
> 
> Ok, it's fixed now. Disconnected everything and only connected the bare minimum, works fine now!
> 
> EDIT: So everything is basically working fine, but I managed to isolate the problem. As soon as I connect the pump to the Aquaero via Aquabus (4 pin, high), it "shuts off" the Aquaero. Anyone know what could be causing this?


I was under the impression that it is exceedingly bad to connect\disconnect anything to an Aquaero while its powered? I know this applies to the Aquaero 5 series.


----------



## Nameless101

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Andrew LB*
> 
> I was under the impression that it is exceedingly bad to connect\disconnect anything to an Aquaero while its powered? I know this applies to the Aquaero 5 series.


I wasn't being clear enough I guess. I didn't do this while it was powered on. The point is when I restart the Aquaero is off, not recognised by Windows and my fans are running at full.


----------



## MuxLee

Got a 6 and a Multiswitch was discounted could nt resist







I have nt done anything with these yet but they look capable

I am in sign me up

Question - can you hook up additional / external LCDs to these ?


----------



## Nameless101

I feel pretty stupid right now.







I'm also probably somewhat lucky I didn't break anything! My self-made aquabus cable was just wired slightly wrong. Rewired it works like a charm. Must take better care in the future!


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Andrew LB*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Nameless101*
> 
> Ok, it's fixed now. Disconnected everything and only connected the bare minimum, works fine now!
> 
> EDIT: So everything is basically working fine, but I managed to isolate the problem. As soon as I connect the pump to the Aquaero via Aquabus (4 pin, high), it "shuts off" the Aquaero. Anyone know what could be causing this?
> 
> 
> 
> I was under the impression that it is exceedingly bad to connect\disconnect anything to an Aquaero while its powered? I know this applies to the Aquaero 5 series.
Click to expand...

Not really. I do it all the time. From what I can tell (although I don't do the aquabus) the danger is in shorting it out or slipping and pluging something into the wrong port/ pin
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MuxLee*
> 
> 
> 
> Got a 6 and a Multiswitch was discounted could nt resist
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have nt done anything with these yet but they look capable
> 
> I am in sign me up
> 
> Question - can you hook up additional / external LCDs to these ?


Yes, no, (i thought i read leds lol )esp the multi switch buy it is Eol and won't work with the aq6 most likely. But can still be activated manually
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nameless101*
> 
> I feel pretty stupid right now.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm also probably somewhat lucky I didn't break anything! My self-made aquabus cable was just wired slightly wrong. Rewired it works like a charm. Must take better care in the future!


Nah your fine


----------



## MuxLee

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> *
> Not really. I do it all the time. From what I can tell (although I don't do the aquabus) the danger is in shorting it out or slipping and pluging something into the wrong port/ pin
> 
> Yes, no, (i thought i read leds lol )esp the multi switch buy it is Eol and won't work with the aq6 most likely. But can still be activated manually
> Nah your fine*


I know its EOL but I haven't bought to drive it with 6 - I bought because its cheap







but it still has switching capabilities

WRT additional LCD matrix I cant see why not may have to build additional circuitry - but it has power supply and a data bus may be a bit of trial and error and a few components either side


----------



## CroyAlore

Hey all, I had some quick questions about the Aquaero 5 and 6 display.

I wanted to get a Aquaero 6 LT and I was wondering if the Aqauero 5 PRO display would work with the Aquaero 6 LT.

Is the Aquaero 5 and 6 displays identical?

Thanks


----------



## Mega Man

Afaik yes


----------



## galletabah

Hi guys!, Can I connect my aquaero 5LT to a external usb 3.0?
I haven't too internal connections in my impact and I need aquaero and frontal Usb

Thanks !


----------



## InfoSeeker

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *galletabah*
> 
> Hi guys!, Can I connect my aquaero 5LT to a external usb 3.0?
> I haven't too internal connections in my impact and I need aquaero and frontal Usb
> 
> Thanks !


Yes, I believe USB 3.0 is backwardly compatible with USB 2.0.
Just make or buy one of THESE.


----------



## galletabah

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *InfoSeeker*
> 
> Yes, I believe USB 3.0 is backwardly compatible with USB 2.0.
> Just make or buy one of THESE.


Thank you!
I have connectors here, I will try make one, hope not break anything.
Regards


----------



## GTXJackBauer

You can also grab a USB hub, if you need more USB headers.


----------



## s74r1

RE: External USB; Yes, you just need a 5pin or 4pin to USB A male (or female then use a double Male A). I've even done this to connect it to my tablet and laptop since I don't like running aquasuite on my main rig.

For passive power in standby I only wire up the power and ground pins, leaving the 2 data pins disconnected.


----------



## galletabah

Thanks guys, I,m doing the wire and I will try to connect it in the ncase soon


----------



## Revan654

Anyone what thickness of thermal pads are used for the waterblock for aquaero 5/6? I need to replace mine, just not sure on the thickness.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> Anyone what thickness of thermal pads are used for the waterblock for aquaero 5/6? I need to replace mine, just not sure on the thickness.


0.5 and 1 mm.


----------



## ChiTownButcher

Trying to find info on the Kryos Vision CPU block and fogured this was the best place to ask. Can it connect with any flow sensor like Koolance, how is it wired and can both water temp and flow rate be read on its display without an Aquaero? Tried looking online but there is no install manual I could find or in depth review on a Vision Vario yet.


----------



## Ashcroft

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ChiTownButcher*
> 
> Trying to find info on the Kryos Vision CPU block and fogured this was the best place to ask. Can it connect with any flow sensor like Koolance, how is it wired and can both water temp and flow rate be read on its display without an Aquaero? Tried looking online but there is no install manual I could find or in depth review on a Vision Vario yet.


From the manual it looks like the Vision uses the same system of calibration as the Aquaero with Impulses/Litre and is wired the same way.
The Koolance flow sensors are axial flow with one impulse generated per rotation and Aquacomp are inline rotary with 2 impulses per rotation. Those differences add up to a very large difference in their impulse/Litre figures. According to Koolance INS FM16 is 33 per litre with the frequency adaptor while the Aquacomp HF uses 160 per litre. The Aquaero can't be calibrated lower than 100 impulses per litre.

In the Vision demo video it shows how the vision can be set in Aquasuite to scroll between pages with functions like temp and other values and a flow display is included in the available pages.


----------



## Revan654

Anyone know of a store who is currently stocking Vision Table top unit (Matte Version)? I talked to Aqua-Computer webstore today. They told me it will likely be a month before they can ship it out due to "Issues" their having.

Not sure what they mean by Issues. I can only find the glossy version for sell at most store.


----------



## outofmyheadyo

I`ve had my aquaero 6 pro for a while now but only ever used it for 1 fan and 1 temp sensor, someone on another forum mentioned he could not control 4 fans + a pump on his aquaero 6 all the way down because it overheated, is that true that I should get the passive heatsink for it, if I want to control 4x pwm fans and a pump ? Or am I fine without it ? My fans are the Phanteks F140MP_BK and pump is D5


----------



## Mega Man

6 does not needed it the 5 does


----------



## outofmyheadyo

Thanks!


----------



## Revan654

Is their any chance we stack the licenses? I bought a few Aquacomputer products last week and they all had keys.


----------



## Ashcroft

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *outofmyheadyo*
> 
> I`ve had my aquaero 6 pro for a while now but only ever used it for 1 fan and 1 temp sensor, someone on another forum mentioned he could not control 4 fans + a pump on his aquaero 6 all the way down because it overheated, is that true that I should get the passive heatsink for it, if I want to control 4x pwm fans and a pump ? Or am I fine without it ? My fans are the Phanteks F140MP_BK and pump is D5


The Aq6 works the direct opposite of the Aq5 in that when voltages are reduced the heat level goes down instead of up. With PWM devices there is even less of a problem.


----------



## BakaBazooka

Hello guys,

1. Would like to know if the Aquaero 6 Pro and Aquaero 5 Pro LCD Screen is interchangeable.
Currently my AQ6 screen has 2 vertical lines on the display (probably dead pixels). My friend has an Aquaero 5 which has an working screen.

2. Any suggestion on how to fix the display?


----------



## Mega Man

Yes they are interchangeable unless the newest revs something has changed on


----------



## Revan654

My Wall of AquaComputer.


----------



## Barefooter

^ That's a beautiful "wall"


----------



## BakaBazooka

Thanks for the reply Mega Man.


----------



## skingun

Is there a way to add additional fan channels to the aquaero?


----------



## seross69

Using power adjust you can add up to 6 or 8 voltage controled channels

@skingun


----------



## skingun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> Using power adjust you can add up to 6 or 8 voltage controled channels
> 
> @skingun


Anyway to add PWM channels? I can't get the fans spinning at a low enough rpm with voltage control.


----------



## GTXJackBauer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skingun*
> 
> Anyway to add PWM channels? I can't get the fans spinning at a low enough rpm with voltage control.


Grab a SPLITTY9 or for each channel, dependent on how many fans you're looking to hook up. Just make sure you're within spec.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skingun*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> Using power adjust you can add up to 6 or 8 voltage controled channels
> 
> @skingun
> 
> 
> 
> Anyway to add PWM channels? I can't get the fans spinning at a low enough rpm with voltage control.
Click to expand...

Add a 6LT in as a slave, gives you 4 more channels . . .

And as mentioned, using powered PWM splitters lets each channel control at least 8 fans, often more . . .

D.


----------



## skingun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Add a 6LT in as a slave, gives you 4 more channels . . .
> 
> And as mentioned, using powered PWM splitters lets each channel control at least 8 fans, often more . . .
> 
> D.


Thanks for the tips. Using Splitty9's already and all my channels are taken. I would like to run another channel of 6 fans so may pursue the slave route.

Ty again


----------



## FlyInfinity

Hey guys, are settings saved to the hardware itself when using aquasuite? And what do you guys think of the 6XT vs 6LT? Is the screen useful or does it just look cool?


----------



## InfoSeeker

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FlyInfinity*
> 
> Hey guys, are settings saved to the hardware itself when using aquasuite? And what do you guys think of the 6XT vs 6LT? Is the screen useful or does it just look cool?


If you click on the little disc icon on the tabs in aquasuite for the individual devices, the current settings are saved to that device.
You do not need aquasuite running for the aquaero to function.

6XT vs. 6LT:
In my opinion, the screen is purely for aesthetic purposes.
If you have a bay available, and the look fits your machine, then the LCD with either the red or blue lights could be very nice.
As to using the screen for input or control. it is not very useful. It has a binary menu, and is a pain to navigate. Use aquasuite for that.


----------



## Mega Man

I like the screen and imo very usable but high learning curve (esp for minor changes) but not needed.

Harder decision now imo due to the new licensing. Imo it was will far easier to just say grab ALT, until they made the 6, with no lt and now..... the licensing makes me go hmm which is better.... and think it through. For example I will end up using a lt to cool my it closet in my house as it likely never be attached to a windows pc, I may end up moving my plex to a Windows based pc although I doubt it.... Idk yet


----------



## FlyInfinity

Thanks guys, I decided to go with the 6LT


----------



## inoran81

I personally had been an avid supporter of their products since 2013 and this year they released something very interesting on the market - the Vision product line!!
Quote:


> What is the water cooler of the future? This was the question we asked ourselves before the development of VISION. From this question came the idea to integrate a highly developed display into our water cooler.
> 
> During the development of VISION, we realized that there are also many possible applications as a stand-alone device for VISION. In addition to the pure display functionality, VISION has therefore been extended by variants with touch control and infrared receiver. A menu structure that can be operated on the device has been integrated and VISION has been extended by a whole series of inputs and outputs. Directly connected can be a temperature sensor and a flow sensor.
> 
> VISION has an aquabus connection in addition to a USB interface and can be supplied with power via both connections. Some VISION versions offer the possibility of integrated RGB lighting. VISION can also switch the PC on and off with an optional cable.


_*Disclaimer - I'm not in anyway sponsored or directed by Aqua Computer to do this. Just wish to create some awareness and share their great products + technology for the water cooling/monitoring scene*_

Waited 2 months for this to arrived... reckon I'm the first few lucky folks in the world to own these now - not to say Singapore



Box box box....



Unbox unbox unbox!



flea market time.....



replace anodized red side panel for my AMS rad 140 & 280



aq6 pro and accessories



Cuplex kryos NEXT VARIO with VISION 2011/2011-3,
nickel/nickel



Even comes with Grizzly Kryonaut



The most advance water cooling CPU block ever sold...


----------



## inoran81

VISION Glow connection terminal for kryographics



the brain of the Vision!





compare the size of the normal connection terminal with the Vision



difference between the active backplate connection terminal with the regular (difference with the hole at the side)


----------



## inoran81

VISION Touch with internal USB cable





difference between VISION Touch with internal USB cable and the VISION Touch with external USB cable, IR receiver and ambient temperature sensor





VISION Glow table top unit with IR receiver and ambient temperature sensor





RGB + OLED display in action!!


----------



## inoran81

the super premium - VISION Touch table top unit, matte nickel plating, IR receiver and ambient temperature sensor



that's one solid block of iron here....













size and build comparison of the VISION Touch table top unit, matte nickel plating, IR receiver and ambient temperature sensor
vs VISION Glow table top unit with IR receiver and ambient temperature sensor


----------



## Revan654

^ Looks like you found Aquacomputer Unicorn. Finding the matte version of the table top unit is like trying to find a unicorn. Not sure why it's so hard to find the matte version, where the glossy version is easy to get.

I have mine on order from Aquacomputer web store, they still telling me about three weeks, I order mine last month(It's pass the promised 21 days).

Haven't been about to find any stores in the US that are selling the matte version. Guess the Wait continues


----------



## spyui

Hello I recently bought Aquaero 6 LT and I am wondering where do i plug the pwm cable from my PWM pump ?


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *spyui*
> 
> Hello I recently bought Aquaero 6 LT and I am wondering where do i plug the pwm cable from my PWM pump ?


in one of the fan channels. configure the fan channel to pwm. Then set a controller and add that fan channel to the controller so you can control the speed of your pump in any way you want. You can also play with minimum and maximum values for the fan channel if you want to set a particular rpm to you pump and forget. I reccomend you look on the fist page of this thread for link to guides on how to use the Aquaero.


----------



## Master Chicken

Need to order, just wondering if the 6 XT "touch" is worth the upgrade over the 6 PRO. Does the touch work as well as the basic buttons or does the touch allow you better control in some way?


----------



## Ashcroft

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *spyui*
> 
> Hello I recently bought Aquaero 6 LT and I am wondering where do i plug the pwm cable from my PWM pump ?


To one of the 4 fan headers. They are the white 4 pin headers in a group of 4 next to each other.

There is a layout diagram in the manual from memory. Buying the heatsink is handy because all the connectors are labeled once it's installed.

The other white headers not in the group of 4 are aquabus, LED etc.


----------



## GTXJackBauer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *spyui*
> 
> Hello I recently bought Aquaero 6 LT and I am wondering where do i plug the pwm cable from my PWM pump ?


Don't mind me echoing what's been said.

1. Make sure the PWM pump is compatible with the Aquaero.

2. Connect to any of the 4 PWM channels.

3. Make sure to set it to PWM in AQ's software.


----------



## Trestles126

Can u hook up a non compatible d5 to the A6 and set speed permanently like I do my lights thru aquasuite and say run it at 50%
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GTXJackBauer*
> 
> Don't mind me echoing what's been said.
> 
> 1. Make sure the PWM pump is compatible with the Aquaero.
> 
> 2. Connect to any of the 4 PWM channels.
> 
> 3. Make sure to set it to PWM in AQ's software.


----------



## Mega Man

@inoran81

Wait. AC finally released an ir reliever and hopefully output (transceiver? Idk )like they showed when aq*5*was released?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Master Chicken*
> 
> Need to order, just wondering if the 6 XT "touch" is worth the upgrade over the 6 PRO. Does the touch work as well as the basic buttons or does the touch allow you better control in some way?


It offers 4 additional buttons, but odds are you are not going to use it often. And the XT is far from needed in most cases
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Trestles126*
> 
> Can u hook up a non compatible d5 to the A6 and set speed permanently like I do my lights thru aquasuite and say run it at 50%
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *GTXJackBauer*
> 
> Don't mind me echoing what's been said.
> 
> 1. Make sure the PWM pump is compatible with the Aquaero.
> 
> 2. Connect to any of the 4 PWM channels.
> 
> 3. Make sure to set it to PWM in AQ's software.
Click to expand...

You can but you may need to make a diva mod (see iirc between posts 1-200 for it)


----------



## Ashcroft

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Trestles126*
> 
> Can u hook up a non compatible d5 to the A6 and set speed permanently like I do my lights thru aquasuite and say run it at 50%


If its not compatible then it won't take commands from the Aquaero and runs at its default speed I think


----------



## tbuttery

Hey Guys!

I am a new owner of an Aquaero 5 LT and am in need of some help. I've posted on the Aquearo Forum, without any responses so far.

So, I think I have figured out how to set up all my fan curves, but I have one concern. When my fans are regulated down to 30% (my low setting thus far), the amplifiers get quite hot....around 70C. This makes sense since it is holding back most of the voltage, but is this safe? My 5LT is right behind on of my radiators, so it gets pretty decent air flow. Maybe get the heatsink??

Also, I have a MCP35X which is plugged in directly to the PSU via a 6-Pin Perf connector, and then I have the PWM cable plugged into the AQ 5LT. However, when I try to use a curve controller, every time I reduce the percentage my RPM goes up, and when I increase percentage my RPM goes down....what's with that!? Is there a way to reverse/reciprocate the controller?

Thanks for the help! Everything else seems to be working great!

tbuttery


----------



## GTXJackBauer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tbuttery*
> 
> Hey Guys!
> 
> I am a new owner of an Aquaero 5 LT and am in need of some help. I've posted on the Aquearo Forum, without any responses so far.
> 
> So, I think I have figured out how to set up all my fan curves, but I have one concern. When my fans are regulated down to 30% (my low setting thus far), the amplifiers get quite hot....around 70C. This makes sense since it is holding back most of the voltage, but is this safe? My 5LT is right behind on of my radiators, so it gets pretty decent air flow. Maybe get the heatsink??
> 
> Also, I have a MCP35X which is plugged in directly to the PSU via a 6-Pin Perf connector, and then I have the PWM cable plugged into the AQ 5LT. However, when I try to use a curve controller, every time I reduce the percentage my RPM goes up, and when I increase percentage my RPM goes down....what's with that!? Is there a way to reverse/reciprocate the controller?
> 
> Thanks for the help! Everything else seems to be working great!
> 
> tbuttery


1. AQ5s always ran hot as opposed to the updated, AQ6. I would recommend grabbing a heatsink for it.

2. Make sure your pump's channel is set at PWM.


----------



## tbuttery

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GTXJackBauer*
> 
> 1. AQ5s always ran hot as opposed to the updated, AQ6. I would recommend grabbing a heatsink for it.
> 
> 2. Make sure your pump's channel is set at PWM.


Thanks!

I'll look into that later tonight! Is the switching to PWM on the controller page?


----------



## GTXJackBauer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tbuttery*
> 
> Thanks!
> 
> I'll look into that later tonight! Is the switching to PWM on the controller page?


It's under the fan's tab. Controller is used for curves and controlling lighting.


----------



## Ashcroft

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tbuttery*
> 
> Hey Guys!
> 
> I am a new owner of an Aquaero 5 LT and am in need of some help. I've posted on the Aquearo Forum, without any responses so far.
> 
> So, I think I have figured out how to set up all my fan curves, but I have one concern. When my fans are regulated down to 30% (my low setting thus far), the amplifiers get quite hot....around 70C. This makes sense since it is holding back most of the voltage, but is this safe? My 5LT is right behind on of my radiators, so it gets pretty decent air flow. Maybe get the heatsink??
> 
> Also, I have a MCP35X which is plugged in directly to the PSU via a 6-Pin Perf connector, and then I have the PWM cable plugged into the AQ 5LT. However, when I try to use a curve controller, every time I reduce the percentage my RPM goes up, and when I increase percentage my RPM goes down....what's with that!? Is there a way to reverse/reciprocate the controller?
> 
> Thanks for the help! Everything else seems to be working great!
> 
> tbuttery


So is it only curve controllers? does a simple manual controller work or is it the same?

35X's normally work perfectly with the Aquaero so if it persists it indicates a problem the the Aquaero or pump


----------



## tbuttery

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ashcroft*
> 
> So is it only curve controllers? does a simple manual controller work or is it the same?
> 
> 35X's normally work perfectly with the Aquaero so if it persists it indicates a problem the the Aquaero or pump


I switched to PWM mode and now it controls it perfectly!

Tested out last night with some light loading, and all my fans and pump control on the curve. Now I just have to tinker with it to find the best point.

However, the fans that I have on 3 Fan PCBs have their RPMs jump around quite a bit in the Aquaero. But, I think that may be due to the fact that I have 3 fans hooked to one header. My exhuast fan has a steady RPM.


----------



## ruffhi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tbuttery*
> 
> However, the fans that I have on 3 Fan PCBs have their RPMs jump around quite a bit in the Aquaero. But, I think that may be due to the fact that I have 3 fans hooked to one header. My exhuast fan has a steady RPM.


I have 7 fans controlled by one port on the Aquaero. Just make sure that only one fan is reporting RPMs to the Aquaero and you should be ok.


----------



## GTXJackBauer

That sounds like the symptom of all fans sending back a RPM signal. As Ruff said, you need one RPM signal reporting back.


----------



## tbuttery

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GTXJackBauer*
> 
> That sounds like the symptom of all fans sending back a RPM signal. As Ruff said, you need one RPM signal reporting back.


So how do I filter out the other two fans?


----------



## ruffhi

How are you connecting all three to one Aquaero port? I am using one of these ...


(note the image is a hot link)


----------



## tbuttery

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ruffhi*
> 
> How are you connecting all three to one Aquaero port? I am using one of these ...
> 
> 
> (note the image is a hot link)


I have a ModMyToys 3 way 3-pin PCB board. Connect 3 fans to it, then one 3-Pin to the Aquaero. These are non-PWM fans BTW.


----------



## ruffhi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tbuttery*
> 
> I have a ModMyToys 3 way 3-pin PCB board. Connect 3 fans to it, then one 3-Pin to the Aquaero. These are non-PWM fans BTW.


Now I am confused. They are non-PWM fans that you are controlling using PWM?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tbuttery*
> 
> I switched to PWM mode and now it controls it perfectly!
> 
> Tested out last night with some light loading, and all my fans and pump control on the curve. Now I just have to tinker with it to find the best point.
> 
> However, the fans that I have on 3 Fan PCBs have their RPMs jump around quite a bit in the Aquaero. But, I think that may be due to the fact that I have 3 fans hooked to one header. My exhuast fan has a steady RPM.


----------



## tbuttery

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ruffhi*
> 
> Now I am confused. They are non-PWM fans that you are controlling using PWM?


Sorry maybe i wasn't too clear. That control issue was with my MCP35X pump. I didn't have it controlled via PWM, so it was backwards. That is fixed now.

Now, I have 6 total fans...non-PWM. Each trio plugs into a 3-way PCB, then one 3 Pin to the Aquaero. When I view the RPMs for those particular fans they jump all over the place. I am pretty sure I have them in voltage control right now, it is just funky how the RPMs read out. I'd like to isolate a single fan and just pull that RPM is possible.


----------



## GTXJackBauer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tbuttery*
> 
> So how do I filter out the other two fans?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tbuttery*
> 
> Now, I have 6 total fans...non-PWM. Each trio plugs into a 3-way PCB, then one 3 Pin to the Aquaero. When I view the RPMs for those particular fans they jump all over the place. I am pretty sure I have them in voltage control right now, it is just funky how the RPMs read out. I'd like to isolate a single fan and just pull that RPM is possible.


You either need to mod the fan hub so one readout from a single fan is heading to the Aquaero or grab one of their SPLITTY9s.


----------



## tbuttery

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GTXJackBauer*
> 
> You either need to mod the fan hub so one readout from a single fan is heading to the Aquaero or grab one of their SPLITTY9s.


So let me ask you this....Can I control three of the fans separate of the other three with that splitter? Or will it only control all 6 through one amplifier on the AQ5?


----------



## GTXJackBauer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tbuttery*
> 
> So let me ask you this....Can I control three of the fans separate of the other three with that splitter? Or will it only control all 6 through one amplifier on the AQ5?


You can control as many fans you want on that splitter, up to 9 of course with only one readout going to the channel.

If you wanted to create separate groups of fans, you can with having a splitter for each one on it's own channel.


----------



## Ashcroft

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tbuttery*
> 
> Sorry maybe i wasn't too clear. That control issue was with my MCP35X pump. I didn't have it controlled via PWM, so it was backwards. That is fixed now.
> 
> Now, I have 6 total fans...non-PWM. Each trio plugs into a 3-way PCB, then one 3 Pin to the Aquaero. When I view the RPMs for those particular fans they jump all over the place. I am pretty sure I have them in voltage control right now, it is just funky how the RPMs read out. I'd like to isolate a single fan and just pull that RPM is possible.


The modmytoys boards have been discussed before many times

http://www.overclock.net/t/1474470/ocn-aquaero-owners-club/770#post_22359867

You can modify the board quite easily so only a single header reports RPM or you can modify the fans by depinning the RPM wire from the connector for a temporary mod

The boards are simple circuits that connect all the fans to a single input line. You cant control them differently.


----------



## Master Chicken

Ordered and received my 6 XT today. I had to go XT for the IR Remote. I'm running the AQ6 on a bench. So far so good, I'm wandering around the menus with the remote. I've managed to spin up a 3-pin fan but I can't seem to get it off of 100% just yet. I'm sure I'll figure it out.

Would like to just manually set it and use the remote to spin it up or down. I had assumed the + and - buttons on the remote might do that easily but not so far.

The bag with 4 screws apparently came open at some point and two slipped between the PCB's while in the box. Lucky I spotted them before I powered it up. The screw heads wouldn't fit, but the screw shafts were wedged in there tight between some soldered through hole parts.

Edit: I've got it working now. Excellent product.


----------



## Revan654

Is their some kind of instructions or manual for Bezel? I really don't like guessing where everything is placed.


----------



## Revan654

*Vision Touch Table Top Unit (Getting Mixed Answers from Aquacomputer on My Order)*

I placed an order awhile back which included some vision products. All my items are available to ship except for the table top unit. When I ask about the table top unit, I keep getting different answers. It's already way past the 21 days listed on the webstore. Also it seems only the matte version is hard to get ahold of, The Glossy version is easy to obtain from a number of online shops.

Example of some of the replies I got:

First E-Mail: They were having problems getting the parts.
Second E-Mail: They were having problems getting the vision unit into the actual table top mount.
Third E-Mail: They need to update the firmware for the buttons, However that firmware has been put on pause for other products firmware.

Anyone from AquaComputer or others know what exactly is going on? I would like to get some kind of estimate ship date on my order.


----------



## Gnrl Kitty

Hi everyone, quick question. I'm interested in getting an Aquaero 6 and I wanted to have something cleared up for me in regards to how a SPLITTY9 can be used. According to the instruction manual:
Quote:


> By setting the jumper to the "aquabus" position, all four aquabus signal lines are forwarded to all black connectors.


Am I suppose to take this to mean that I can get an additional four PWM signals detected in Aquasuite that I can control the speed of? For a combined eight PWM signals?


----------



## fast_fate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gnrl Kitty*
> 
> Hi everyone, quick question. I'm interested in getting an Aquaero 6 and I wanted to have something cleared up for me in regards to how a SPLITTY9 can be used. According to the instruction manual:
> Am I suppose to take this to mean that I can get an additional four PWM signals detected in Aquasuite that I can control the speed of? For a combined eight PWM signals?


No - unfortunately does not work that way.
Aquabus is Aqua Computers "communication system"
If you set the jumper on the Splitty9 for Aquabus - it turns the Splitty9 into an Aquabus hub instead on a 3pin/4pin fan hub.
You can get additional PWM channels though by adding an Aquabus device such as the Power Adjust.









f_f

EDIT: essentially changing the jumper will enable the 3rd pin (rpm signal) on all the connectors, so all 4 pins are in use on all the connectors.
For fan control jumper position only 1 rpm signal is passed along to the Aquaero - from the designated connector


----------



## Gnrl Kitty

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fast_fate*
> 
> You can get additional PWM channels though by adding an Aquabus device such as the Power Adjust.


How do I do that? According to the product page I can't
Quote:


> Features:
> - DC output, no PWM


Well, actually I should just clarify what I'm trying to accomplish. I'm trying to build a setup where I have maybe 6-10 fans that turn on one by one. It's going to serve an entirely aesthetic purpose. But that means I have to control each fan individually. Is there a scenario where I can make that happen using Aquasuite products?


----------



## fast_fate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gnrl Kitty*
> 
> How do I do that? According to the product page I can't
> Well, actually I should just clarify what I'm trying to accomplish. I'm trying to build a setup where I have maybe 6-10 fans that turn on one by one. It's going to serve an entirely aesthetic purpose. But that means I have to control each fan individually. Is there a scenario where I can make that happen using Aquasuite products?


The new Aquaero 6LT has all PWM channels enabled - 5LT does not.
so running a 6LT slaved to the master Aquaerto 6XT/Pro should work for your scenario - 8 PWM channels.

EDIT: not sure about the timing side of things with a staggered start for each fan ???
maybe need a "timer" of some sort on each fans line.
Maybe someone else has a suggestion on the staggered start


----------



## Gnrl Kitty

Huh, is that the only option? I mean it's kind of a waste to buy an entire secondary Aquaero just to use the PWM channels. I guess that's what I get for wanting to do something so unconventional, though.


----------



## fast_fate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gnrl Kitty*
> 
> Huh, is that the only option? I mean it's kind of a waste to buy an entire secondary Aquaero just to use the PWM channels. I guess that's what I get for wanting to do something so unconventional, though.


well yeah - one fan per channel is certainly under-using the output channels.

I edited my last post to add something about the staggered start timing.

How are you planning to achieve this ??


----------



## Gnrl Kitty

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fast_fate*
> 
> How are you planning to achieve this ??


Okay so here's my plan, assuming I'm not making any mistakes or misunderstanding how Aquasuite works.

Using two of the temperature sensor inputs on the Aquaero to measure ambient air temp outside the case and the temp of the coolant in the loop, I'll establish a Delta-T over ambient for the cooling capacity of my loop after coolant temp equilibrium has been reached. The Aquearo will even calculate this for me on the on the fly as the ambient air temp changes. I believe this is called a "virtual sensor" in Aquasuite. Then, I divide that Delta-T over ambient by the number of fans I have. This will be how much the coolant temperature has to rise in order for the next fan to turn on. Thanks to the Aquaero calculating Delta-T over ambient the fans will always be correctly attuned to the Delta-T over ambient regardless of ambient air changes daily or year round.

My math is telling me I'll likely have a Delta-T over ambient of maybe 20-30C. This is partially intentional for the effect to work. So depending on the number of fans that could be anywhere from 2-5C coolant temp rise per fan. To make the effect more noticeable, I'll try to lengthen the amount of time between fan activations. To do this, I'll be using three large reservoirs of coolant to slow down the time it takes for the coolant to reach equilibrium.

PLEASE critique.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gnrl Kitty*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *fast_fate*
> 
> You can get additional PWM channels though by adding an Aquabus device such as the Power Adjust.
> 
> 
> 
> How do I do that? According to the product page I can't
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Features:
> - DC output, no PWM
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Well, actually I should just clarify what I'm trying to accomplish. *I'm trying to build a setup where I have maybe 6-10 fans that turn on one by one*. It's going to serve an entirely aesthetic purpose. But that means I have to control each fan individually. Is there a scenario where I can make that happen using Aquasuite products?
Click to expand...

If you're fairly adept at electronics, it isn't hard to do.

Look at using a LM3914 chip that can sequentially turn on 10 outputs in reference to an increasing input signal level.

Use an Aquaero channel based on the delta t virtual sensor, in voltage control mode with a curve controller, setup to be the input signal and use each of the 3914 outputs to switch a mosfet that turns on each sequential fan.

Set the 3914 to be in bar graph mode as opposed to dot mode.

Use 1 Aquaero channel to drive the controller, and a second channel to supply the voltage or PWM percentage that you want them to run at.

Not really hard at all.

Darlene

He's a similar controller I build especially for my chiller builds to sequentially turn on the chilled loop pumps, and then sequentially turn on 2 chillers.

It has more flexibility than a 3914 based controller, but doesn't have 10 outputs.

It can run from the virtual delta t sensor, or via a manual voltage level input.


----------



## Gnrl Kitty

Waiting for a mod to approve my comment apparently.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gnrl Kitty*
> 
> Waiting for a mod to approve my comment apparently.


For what it's worth to help you make some predictions:

A rig with significantly overkill raddage gets less then 5*C delta t.

A well radded rig with ample or somewhat above raddage gets in the 5*C to 10*C range

A rig with barley adequate raddage is in the 10*C to 15*C range

You have to be really under-radded , pushing the voltages with minimal rads, or severely airflow restricted or super high ambients, to get much above the 15*C to 20*C range


----------



## Gnrl Kitty

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> You have to be really under-radded , pushing the voltages with minimal rads, or severely airflow restricted or super high ambients, to get much above the 15*C to 20*C range


That's exactly what I'm doing, intentionally.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gnrl Kitty*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> You have to be really under-radded , pushing the voltages with minimal rads, or severely airflow restricted or super high ambients, to get much above the 15*C to 20*C range
> 
> 
> 
> That's exactly what I'm doing, intentionally.
Click to expand...

Well as counter-productive as that is, why bother to control the fans at all, just let 'em run max all the time . . .

Nothing good ever came from high delta t


----------



## Gnrl Kitty

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Well as counter-productive as that is, why bother to control the fans at all, just let 'em run max all the time . . .
> 
> Nothing good ever came from high delta t


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gnrl Kitty*
> 
> I'm trying to build a setup where I have maybe 6-10 fans that turn on one by one. It's going to serve an entirely aesthetic purpose.


The goal is not performance.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gnrl Kitty*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Well as counter-productive as that is, why bother to control the fans at all, just let 'em run max all the time . . .
> 
> Nothing good ever came from high delta t
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Gnrl Kitty*
> 
> I'm trying to build a setup where I have maybe 6-10 fans that turn on one by one. It's going to serve an entirely aesthetic purpose.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> The goal is not performance.
Click to expand...

I certainly wouldn't tolerate a delta t over 10*C, nor would most folks here, but to each his own . . .

Turning on 10 fans in sequence as delta t rises is still a piece of cake, whether you want it to happen over a 5*C span or a 20*C span


----------



## Gnrl Kitty

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> I certainly wouldn't tolerate a delta t over 10*C, nor would most folks here, but to each his own . . .


*shrug*


----------



## ChiTownButcher

Since ITDiva has been in the thread lately I have 3 questions. 1) do you see any issue powering 6xML120 Pro fans on 1 PWM channel if I am using the silverstone powered splitters assuming I want a range of 600-1200rpm without a Divamod? 2) I still cant figure out what an Aquabus is. 3) Other than Aquaero flow sensors what are my options for an AQ6XT assuming I am running 2xpwm D5 series single loop CPU/GPU/VRM and 3x360 rad with a target flow between range .8(idle)-1.5(load) gal


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ChiTownButcher*
> 
> Since ITDiva has been in the thread lately I have 3 questions. 1) do you see any issue powering 6xML120 Pro fans on 1 PWM channel if I am using the silverstone powered splitters assuming I want a range of 600-1200rpm without a Divamod?


yes, you are using a powered hub which means you are getting your power from the psu, not the aq, most of the boards i have seen are ~5a so just dont go over that generally they can handle start up current but not always
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ChiTownButcher*
> 
> 2) I still cant figure out what an Aquabus is.


think of it as a network that only aqua computer stuff can communicate on
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ChiTownButcher*
> 
> 3) Other than Aquaero flow sensors what are my options for an AQ6XT assuming I am running 2xpwm D5 series single loop CPU/GPU/VRM and 3x360 rad with a target flow between range .8(idle)-1.5(load) gal


for flow ??? many things, diva likes the koolance flow sensors with rpm converter [ i am sure i am not saying that properly ]

but you can make any work you just need to ba able to calibrate them IE know the pulses per .....


----------



## ChiTownButcher

The concern with the ML120 Fans is they are still using PWM 1.3 and didnt remember if it just caused a RPM range issue or larger issue. If you think back to the SP120 fans they use the same PWM standard


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ChiTownButcher*
> 
> The concern with the ML120 Fans is they are still using PWM 1.3 and didnt remember if it just caused a RPM range issue or larger issue. If you think back to the SP120 fans they use the same PWM standard


You should be good to go . . .

It was only the very first of the A6's that had the 100 ohm protective resistors and hence caused progressively less control of the low speed range with the SP120's as you got past 3 to 5 of them.

All the A6's since the first few weeks, (maybe months) of production went to 47 ohm resistors and had no problems with up to 8 SP120's, and only minimal loss of low speed control until you had more than 10.

The Corsair fans may have changed their pullup value to further limit current, which would have been totally transparent to the user, as except for those very early days, there just doesn't seem to be anyone having that issue in a long time now.


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ChiTownButcher*
> 
> The concern with the ML120 Fans is they are still using PWM 1.3 and didnt remember if it just caused a RPM range issue or larger issue. If you think back to the SP120 fans they use the same PWM standard


Their fine, I'm using 6XT and have around 16 running at desired PWM speed I want.


----------



## Revan654

It may be a bad placement, I have two temp sensors in my res and the readout for the temps are jumping around like crazy. I'm not getting any steady numbers (Unless the PC is off). Could the cause be the placement or is the D5 pumps to strong causing problems with a proper readout?


----------



## InfoSeeker

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ChiTownButcher*
> 
> 2) I still cant figure out what an Aquabus is.


The aquabus is aquacomputer's proprietary bus used to integrate other aquacomputer devices into the aquaero.

with aquabus only, the aquaero can automatically monitor/control other aquabus capable devices
with USB only, only manual monitoring/control is possible of aquabus capable devices
USB may be required for device setup & calibration, but may be removed after initialization
with both aquabus & USB, manual & automatic monitoring/control of aquabus capable devices is possible
Edit: Once setup, the aquaero's USB connection to the mobo may be removed, and the aquaero will control/monitor all aquabus connected devices autonomously.


----------



## Jubijub

I am considering building my first loop, and I'm interested in the Aquaero 6. But I have a few questions :

- for flow / temp / coolant level : is it mandatory to use Aqua computer devices ? Can I use Koolance stuff for instance ?
- same question for the pump
- I plan to go 120.4 + 120.3 + 120.2 in push/pull, ie 18 fans : I do I plug this without transforming my case into a jungle ?
- with the A6, is the passive cooler enough ?
- for those of you who have good mobo fan control wise (I'm thinking high end ASUS), what made you go the Aquaero route vs using mobo fan control ?


----------



## GTXJackBauer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jubijub*
> 
> I am considering building my first loop, and I'm interested in the Aquaero 6. But I have a few questions :
> 
> - for flow / temp / coolant level : is it mandatory to use Aqua computer devices ? Can I use Koolance stuff for instance ?
> - same question for the pump
> - I plan to go 120.4 + 120.3 + 120.2 in push/pull, ie 18 fans : I do I plug this without transforming my case into a jungle ?
> - with the A6, is the passive cooler enough ?
> - for those of you who have good mobo fan control wise (I'm thinking high end ASUS), what made you go the Aquaero route vs using mobo fan control ?


Yes, use all Aquacomputer devices so you aren't having compatibility issues. Your pump and flow sensor should be from AC mainly.

You could grab a few SPLITTY9s and use up 3 channels out of 4 while the pump is communicating through the Aquaero via Aquabus. The flow meter can do the same or through the flow header on the AQ. They have different models for most so pay attention to what you get.

The heatsink isn't a bad idea to grab as the AQ6 is efficient compared to the AQ5.

I went the the Aquaero (6XT) because I ran out of PWM headers. I could only use one on my MB with one fan hub. I needed PWM for my pumps as well. In the end, I ended up creating a Aquaero ecosystem, including LED controls, flow, air/water temps, etc. It's been amazing and haven't looked back.


----------



## Jubijub

It seems there is only a D5 PWM pump that supports Aquabus.

For the flow sensor I would use this : https://shop.aquacomputer.de/product_info.php?products_id=2294
For the temp : https://shop.aquacomputer.de/product_info.php?products_id=2293

Thanks for your answer, very informative !


----------



## Jpmboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> If you're fairly adept at electronics, it isn't hard to do.
> 
> Look at using a LM3914 chip that can sequentially turn on 10 outputs in reference to an increasing input signal level.
> 
> Use an Aquaero channel based on the delta t virtual sensor, in voltage control mode with a curve controller, setup to be the input signal and use each of the 3914 outputs to switch a mosfet that turns on each sequential fan.
> 
> Set the 3914 to be in bar graph mode as opposed to dot mode.
> 
> Use 1 Aquaero channel to drive the controller, and a second channel to supply the voltage or PWM percentage that you want them to run at.
> 
> Not really hard at all.
> 
> Darlene
> 
> He's a similar controller I build especially for my chiller builds to sequentially turn on the chilled loop pumps, and then sequentially turn on 2 chillers.
> 
> It has more flexibility than a 3914 based controller, but doesn't have 10 outputs.
> 
> It can run from the virtual delta t sensor, or via a manual voltage level input.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


erm.. that looks like a new Product to me.








You do some amazing work Darlene!


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jubijub*
> 
> *It seems there is only a D5 PWM pump that supports Aquabus.
> 
> *For the flow sensor I would use this : https://shop.aquacomputer.de/product_info.php?products_id=2294
> For the temp : https://shop.aquacomputer.de/product_info.php?products_id=2293
> 
> Thanks for your answer, very informative !


There is no PWM D5 that supports Aquabus . . .

The AC version of the PWM D5 works out of the box with the A6 using PWM control, but it does not have an Aquabus connection . .

The AC D5 that is supported via Aquabus is essentially a vario model with electronic control in place of the little red speed adjuster.

It may seem trivial, but you have to understand the differences and ways each can be used to keep from ordering the wrong stuff, potentially an expensive mistake.


----------



## wa3pnt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> There is no PWM D5 that supports Aquabus . . .
> 
> The AC version of the PWM D5 works out of the box with the A6 using PWM control, but it does not have an Aquabus connection . .
> 
> The AC D5 that is supported via Aquabus is essentially a vario model with electronic control in place of the little red speed adjuster.
> 
> It may seem trivial, but you have to understand the differences and ways each can be used to keep from ordering the wrong stuff, potentially an expensive mistake.


Darlene, am I miss-reading what you posted?

I use these in my system, and they have USB & Aquabus.

http://www.aquatuning.us/water-cooling/pumps/d5-series/d5-pumps/13775/aquacomputer-d5-pumpenmechanik-mit-usb-und-aquabus-schnittstelle

RodeoGeorge

MY BAD. I missed the "PWM"
Sorry


----------



## GTXJackBauer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jubijub*
> 
> It seems there is only a D5 PWM pump that supports Aquabus.
> 
> For the flow sensor I would use this : https://shop.aquacomputer.de/product_info.php?products_id=2294
> For the temp : https://shop.aquacomputer.de/product_info.php?products_id=2293
> 
> Thanks for your answer, very informative !


No problem Jub.

As for the pumps, those are actually two different pumps. One is a D5 PWM pump and the other is for Aquabus/USB. I personally like the Aquabus version since it leaves your fan channels alone. Of course the aquabus is limited to 4 MPS devices only but you should have more than enough room for what you'll be setting up.

I use the same flow meter. Works like a charm. I should note, after 1.5 GPM, it does become audible but you shouldn't need it that high since a efficient flowing loop only needs anywhere from 1.0-1.5 GPM.

Water temp sensor looks good.

Edit: Darlene beat me to it with great info on the pumps.


----------



## BakaBazooka

Hello,

would like to know if this is temperature sensor is compatible with the aquaeros.

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/Hot-50cm-NTC-Thermistor-Temperature-Sensor-Waterproof-Probe-Wire-10K-1-3950-Free-Shipping/32584887632.html?spm=2114.30010308.3.9.NOTCAc&ws_ab_test=searchweb0_0,searchweb201602_1_10065_10000073_10068_10000077_10000074_10000033_119_10000030_10000026_10000023_431_10000069_10000068_10060_10062_10056_10055_10000062_10054_10000063_10059_10099_10000020_10000013_10103_10102_10000016_10096_10000056_10000059_10052_10053_10107_10050_10106_10051_10000097_10000094_10000091_10000007_10000050_10084_10000101_10083_10000100_10080_10000047_10000104_10082_10081_10110_10111_10112_10113_10114_10000089_10000086_10000083_10000041_10000044_10000080_10078_10079_10000038_10073_10000035_10070_10122_10123_10121_10126_10124,searchweb201603_1,afswitch_3_afChannel,ppcSwitch_1,single_sort_2_price_asc&btsid=76e694f7-7739-4974-9286-2596f669433f&algo_expid=0f930ce0-54f1-43b7-947b-fdaab19b1739-4&algo_pvid=0f930ce0-54f1-43b7-947b-fdaab19b1739

Sorry for the long link. But will this work? Might need to change the connector 2p dupont but will it work?


----------



## Jubijub

@IT Diva : thanks !
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GTXJackBauer*
> 
> No problem Jub.
> 
> As for the pumps, those are actually two different pumps. One is a D5 PWM pump and the other is for Aquabus/USB. I personally like the Aquabus version since it leaves your fan channels alone. Of course the aquabus is limited to 4 MPS devices only but you should have more than enough room for what you'll be setting up.
> 
> I use the same flow meter. Works like a charm. I should note, after 1.5 GPM, it does become audible but you shouldn't need it that high since a efficient flowing loop only needs anywhere from 1.0-1.5 GPM.
> 
> Water temp sensor looks good.
> 
> Edit: Darlene beat me to it with great info on the pumps.


Thanks for the clarification. I guess I now understand the fan systems (with the SPLITTY9). The sensor part is also clear now









But additional questions popped up









- If I want 2 D5 pumps can I still go the Aquabus route ? (it says on the site 2x Aquastream, which are Eheim pumps that are enormous)
- I I wanted Laing DDC 3.2 pumps, it is still OK, but I would need to control them purely via PWM, which would consume one channel out of the 4
- how can the AQ6 get the CPU / GPU temp ? I saw in the manual you can use HWinfo and the likes to act as software sensors, by exporting the values they read from the mobo. While this would work, it sounds like windows only, and I plan to use this new workstation with Linux as well... and I really want this thing to be autonomous and OS agnostic.
- the manual says AQ6 can handle 2.5A / channel, while the SPLITTY9 can handle 5A. How can I inject extra power in this ? The SPLITTY9 doesn't seem to have a molex plug, or anything, so I don't get how it can receive 5A (this is a theoretical question, a Vardar @ 1100RPM draws 0.05A, but for a 120.4 rad on push pull, this means 2.5/8 = 0.31A / fan, and some fans exceed this (eg : a Vardar 140 F3 @ 2000 rpm). I should be able, as PWM precisely separate power from speed.


----------



## fast_fate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jubijub*
> 
> @IT Diva : thanks !
> Thanks for the clarification. I guess I now understand the fan systems (with the SPLITTY9). The sensor part is also clear now
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But additional questions popped up
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> - If I want 2 D5 pumps can I still go the Aquabus route ? (it says on the site 2x Aquastream, which are Eheim pumps that are enormous)
> - I I wanted Laing DDC 3.2 pumps, it is still OK, but I would need to control them purely via PWM, which would consume one channel out of the 4
> - how can the AQ6 get the CPU / GPU temp ? I saw in the manual you can use HWinfo and the likes to act as software sensors, by exporting the values they read from the mobo. While this would work, it sounds like windows only, and I plan to use this new workstation with Linux as well... and I really want this thing to be autonomous and OS agnostic.
> - the manual says AQ6 can handle 2.5A / channel, while the SPLITTY9 can handle 5A. How can I inject extra power in this ? The SPLITTY9 doesn't seem to have a molex plug, or anything, so I don't get how it can receive 5A (this is a theoretical question, a Vardar @ 1100RPM draws 0.05A, but for a 120.4 rad on push pull, this means 2.5/8 = 0.31A / fan, and some fans exceed this (eg : a Vardar 140 F3 @ 2000 rpm). I should be able, as PWM precisely separate power from speed.


2 D5 USB (Aquabus) pumps is perfectly fine, in fact you could have up to 4 of them according to the following Aqua Computer quote
Quote:


> In maximum configuration, the following devices can be connected to an aquaero 6 simultaneously:
> 2x aquastream XT/ULTIMATE pumps
> 8x poweradjust 2/3
> 1x aquaero 5/6 LT (in this case only 4x poweradjust 2/3)
> 4x mps based devices (flow sensor, pressure/fill level sensor and D5 pump with aquabus)
> 2x farbwerk controller
> 1x Real Time Clock expansion module


2 x PWM pumps - DDC OR PWM are easily controlled (NOT POWERED) by a single fan channel. Just use PWM splitter cable from Aquaero OR a Splitty 9 hub for the PWM split - remember only 1 RPM signal should be sent to the Aquaero on the same output channel.

adding the passive heat-sink bumps up the output per channel from 2.5 Amps to 3.0 Amps (pretty sure), maybe that helps with your theoretical question.

Not sure on the Linux software to send data to the Aquaero for monitoring.


----------



## Jubijub

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fast_fate*
> 
> 2 D5 USB (Aquabus) pumps is perfectly fine, in fact you could have up to 4 of them according to the following Aqua Computer quote


good
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fast_fate*
> 
> 2 x PWM pumps - DDC OR PWM are easily controlled (NOT POWERED) by a single fan channel. Just use PWM splitter cable from Aquaero OR a Splitty 9 hub for the PWM split - remember only 1 RPM signal should be sent to the Aquaero on the same output channel.


this boils down to are the D5 pumps good enough, or shall I bother going to EK or another brand. Which I have no idea of, it seems all pumps are pretty much the same within a familly of models (D5 for instance)
if there is value in not going with the Aquabus enabled pumps, I'll look into this.
For the PWM signal, if not mistaken if using the Splitty9, it does that filtering for you already (only one specific port sends PWM info back)
However if using the SPLITTY9, I am not sure how to bring the extra power.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fast_fate*
> 
> adding the passive heat-sink bumps up the output per channel from 2.5 Amps to 3.0 Amps (pretty sure), maybe that helps with your theoretical question.


I doubt I'll run into this problem.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fast_fate*
> 
> Not sure on the Linux software to send data to the Aquaero for monitoring.


The question is more : how can I pass temp info using only hardware ? I am considering an Asus X99-Deluxe-II, and while I found plenty of fan ports, and even a temp_in, I didn't find any temp out.
This is quite a big issue, as the whole system should regulate from CPU or GPU temp, and not from water teamp or case temp.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jubijub*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *fast_fate*
> 
> 2 D5 USB (Aquabus) pumps is perfectly fine, in fact you could have up to 4 of them according to the following Aqua Computer quote
> 
> 
> 
> good
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *fast_fate*
> 
> 2 x PWM pumps - DDC OR PWM are easily controlled (NOT POWERED) by a single fan channel. Just use PWM splitter cable from Aquaero OR a Splitty 9 hub for the PWM split - remember only 1 RPM signal should be sent to the Aquaero on the same output channel.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> this boils down to are the D5 pumps good enough, or shall I bother going to EK or another brand. Which I have no idea of, it seems all pumps are pretty much the same within a familly of models (D5 for instance)
> if there is value in not going with the Aquabus enabled pumps, I'll look into this.
> For the PWM signal, if not mistaken if using the Splitty9, it does that filtering for you already (only one specific port sends PWM info back)
> However if using the SPLITTY9, I am not sure how to bring the extra power.
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *fast_fate*
> 
> adding the passive heat-sink bumps up the output per channel from 2.5 Amps to 3.0 Amps (pretty sure), maybe that helps with your theoretical question.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> I doubt I'll run into this problem.
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *fast_fate*
> 
> Not sure on the Linux software to send data to the Aquaero for monitoring.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> The question is more : how can I pass temp info using only hardware ? I am considering an Asus X99-Deluxe-II, and while I found plenty of fan ports, and even a temp_in, I didn't find any temp out.
> *This is quite a big issue, as the whole system should regulate from CPU or GPU temp, and not from water teamp or case temp*.
Click to expand...

This is something you may want to rethink . . . .

If you base fan speed on CPU or GPU temps, they'll ramp up and down constantly with each spike or variation that's part of normal processing variations.

It'll drive you crazy, . . and won't react fast enough in water temp change to be of any value.

Ideally, what's turned out to be the most effective way to control fans is from the water - ambient delta.

You can use hardware sensors for the coolant temp and ambient temp, and then have the Aquaero use those values to create a virtual sensor, delta t, that you then use to control fan speed.

Once set up and saved to the Aquaero, it should work autonomously in Linux.

Darlene


----------



## fast_fate

@Jubijub

Everything Diva said about auto control by creating a virtual sensor









Splitty9 is just for PWM distribution and a bit of overkill (but neat and tidy) for use with 2 pumps. Only PWM and RPM pins are used, *PUMPS MUST ALWAYS BE POWERED DIRECTLY FROM PSU.*
and yes, with jumper in place for fan/pump control only the designated connector passes along the RPM signal.
Moving the jumper turns the Splitty9 into an Aquabus hub with all pins enabled.

Things to consider about which pumps are most suitable for you.
Yep, pretty much the same output and power consumption for the USB and PWM pumps.
Noise factor determined by your choice of pump top, how you mount it and the speed pumps are operating at.
Pumps are considered a set and forget item, so once you dial in the flow rate/noise factor you are happy with there's not much of a reason to adjust them.
So I guess it boils down to what best suits your needs (how many fan headers to you need for fans) and what you think will be the easiest to wire up.

I have both - I use PWM in systems because I find the wiring much simpler and no need to aquire an Aquabus address
but still find the USB is more useful on the test benches, even those which have an Aquaero fitted.

USB Version
- good for external use (Test Benches) as can connect to USB port on laptop
- good if Aquaero is not installed in the machine as can connect to motherboard USB header
- good if Aquaero is installed and all 4 fan ports are used for fans, as can connect pump/s via Aquabus
- first use - needs to be connected to motherboard to get an Aquabus address

PWM Version - Aqua Computer OR EK PWM G2
good for control with no Aquaero as can connect to CPU fan header or other PWM header on motherboard - control with BIOS or Speedfan
good for control with Aquaero as can connect to fan header - control from AquaSuite
if more than 2 pumps - only get rpm reading from 1 pump (assuming they are connect to same header for control)

some things to consider


----------



## Jubijub

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> This is something you may want to rethink . . . .
> 
> If you base fan speed on CPU or GPU temps, they'll ramp up and down constantly with each spike or variation that's part of normal processing variations.
> 
> It'll drive you crazy, . . and won't react fast enough in water temp change to be of any value.
> 
> Ideally, what's turned out to be the most effective way to control fans is from the water - ambient delta.
> 
> You can use hardware sensors for the coolant temp and ambient temp, and then have the Aquaero use those values to create a virtual sensor, delta t, that you then use to control fan speed.
> 
> Once set up and saved to the Aquaero, it should work autonomously in Linux.
> Darlene


Cheesh it's hard to learn something via the web sometimes : intuitively I also thought that water temp was a good metric, but people categorically told me otherwise







(the rationale was that if the water sensor doesn't work well, the system may not cool enough the CPU / GPU)

So you use Delta T from ambiant vs water : where do you pick ambiant ? in case, or true ambiant ie outside of case ?
I love this as this does indeed address my "autonomy" need, thanks for the tip !

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fast_fate*
> 
> @Jubijub
> 
> Everything Diva said about auto control by creating a virtual sensor
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Splitty9 is just for PWM distribution and a bit of overkill (but neat and tidy) for use with 2 pumps. Only PWM and RPM pins are used, *PUMPS MUST ALWAYS BE POWERED DIRECTLY FROM PSU.*
> and yes, with jumper in place for fan/pump control only the designated connector passes along the RPM signal.
> Moving the jumper turns the Splitty9 into an Aquabus hub with all pins enabled.


Sorry, I didn't disclose before what I had in mind. I want to go 120.4 + 120.3 + 120.2 on push/pull (I plan to buy a CaseLabs Merlin SM8, so the 480 would go top, 360 front, and 240 bottom with the PSU).
This will cool a 6900K @ 4-4.2 (not sure yet, I plan minimum 4, will try 4.2 if I can reach it without mad temps) + 2-3x Titan X (or whatever nVidia launches by then, or even 1080Ti, as a machine learning / gaming rig.

So the SPLITTY9 will be for the 18 fans required for the push/pull, and also as a way to avoid having fan cables roaming everywhere in the case, so I plan 1 per rad.

I got the point for the pumps, I could use one SPLITTY just to plug the pumps on it (as it filters the return PWM signal which I don't know how to do otherwise), and power them separately.
To be fair, I also read a lot of people going D5 just put it on speed 3 and don't bother with PWM







and you seem to agree below









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fast_fate*
> 
> @Jubijub
> Things to consider about which pumps are most suitable for you.
> Yep, pretty much the same output and power consumption for the USB and PWM pumps.
> Noise factor determined by your choice of pump top, how you mount it and the speed pumps are operating at.
> Pumps are considered a set and forget item, so once you dial in the flow rate/noise factor you are happy with there's not much of a reason to adjust them.
> So I guess it boils down to what best suits your needs (how many fan headers to you need for fans) and what you think will be the easiest to wire up.


clearly off topic, but any pointers on the pump / top vs noise ?
I was naively considering the EK top for dual pumps, no idea if it is a good choice or not.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fast_fate*
> 
> @Jubijub
> I have both - I use PWM in systems because I find the wiring much simpler and no need to aquire an Aquabus address
> but still find the USB is more useful on the test benches, even those which have an Aquaero fitted.


I don't plan to break OC record, just to cool expensive hardware (hence redundancy) that runs hot (I calculated around 900W I would need to dissipate) in a silent way
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fast_fate*
> 
> @Jubijub
> USB Version
> - good for external use (Test Benches) as can connect to USB port on laptop
> - good if Aquaero is not installed in the machine as can connect to motherboard USB header
> - good if Aquaero is installed and all 4 fan ports are used for fans, as can connect pump/s via Aquabus
> - first use - needs to be connected to motherboard to get an Aquabus address
> 
> PWM Version - Aqua Computer OR EK PWM G2
> good for control with no Aquaero as can connect to CPU fan header or other PWM header on motherboard - control with BIOS or Speedfan
> good for control with Aquaero as can connect to fan header - control from AquaSuite
> if more than 2 pumps - only get rpm reading from 1 pump (assuming they are connect to same header for control)
> 
> some things to consider


thanks for the recap !


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jubijub*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> This is something you may want to rethink . . . .
> 
> If you base fan speed on CPU or GPU temps, they'll ramp up and down constantly with each spike or variation that's part of normal processing variations.
> 
> It'll drive you crazy, . . and won't react fast enough in water temp change to be of any value.
> 
> Ideally, what's turned out to be the most effective way to control fans is from the water - ambient delta.
> 
> You can use hardware sensors for the coolant temp and ambient temp, and then have the Aquaero use those values to create a virtual sensor, delta t, that you then use to control fan speed.
> 
> Once set up and saved to the Aquaero, it should work autonomously in Linux.
> Darlene
> 
> 
> 
> Cheesh it's hard to learn something via the web sometimes : intuitively I also thought that water temp was a good metric, but people categorically told me otherwise
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (the rationale was that if the water sensor doesn't work well, the system may not cool enough the CPU / GPU)
> 
> So you use Delta T from ambiant vs water : *where do you pick ambiant ?* in case, or true ambiant ie outside of case ?
> I love this as this does indeed address my "autonomy" need, thanks for the tip !
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *fast_fate*
> 
> @Jubijub
> 
> Everything Diva said about auto control by creating a virtual sensor
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Splitty9 is just for PWM distribution and a bit of overkill (but neat and tidy) for use with 2 pumps. Only PWM and RPM pins are used, *PUMPS MUST ALWAYS BE POWERED DIRECTLY FROM PSU.*
> and yes, with jumper in place for fan/pump control only the designated connector passes along the RPM signal.
> Moving the jumper turns the Splitty9 into an Aquabus hub with all pins enabled.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Sorry, I didn't disclose before what I had in mind. I want to go 120.4 + 120.3 + 120.2 on push/pull (I plan to buy a CaseLabs Merlin SM8, so the 480 would go top, 360 front, and 240 bottom with the PSU).
> This will cool a 6900K @ 4-4.2 (not sure yet, I plan minimum 4, will try 4.2 if I can reach it without mad temps) + 2-3x Titan X (or whatever nVidia launches by then, or even 1080Ti, as a machine learning / gaming rig.
> 
> So the SPLITTY9 will be for the 18 fans required for the push/pull, and also as a way to avoid having fan cables roaming everywhere in the case, so I plan 1 per rad.
> 
> I got the point for the pumps, I could use one SPLITTY just to plug the pumps on it (as it filters the return PWM signal which I don't know how to do otherwise), and power them separately.
> To be fair, I also read a lot of people going D5 just put it on speed 3 and don't bother with PWM
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and you seem to agree below
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *fast_fate*
> 
> @Jubijub
> Things to consider about which pumps are most suitable for you.
> Yep, pretty much the same output and power consumption for the USB and PWM pumps.
> Noise factor determined by your choice of pump top, how you mount it and the speed pumps are operating at.
> Pumps are considered a set and forget item, so once you dial in the flow rate/noise factor you are happy with there's not much of a reason to adjust them.
> So I guess it boils down to what best suits your needs (how many fan headers to you need for fans) and what you think will be the easiest to wire up.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> clearly off topic, but any pointers on the pump / top vs noise ?
> I was naively considering the EK top for dual pumps, no idea if it is a good choice or not.
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *fast_fate*
> 
> @Jubijub
> I have both - I use PWM in systems because I find the wiring much simpler and no need to aquire an Aquabus address
> but still find the USB is more useful on the test benches, even those which have an Aquaero fitted.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> I don't plan to break OC record, just to cool expensive hardware (hence redundancy) that runs hot (I calculated around 900W I would need to dissipate) in a silent way
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *fast_fate*
> 
> @Jubijub
> USB Version
> - good for external use (Test Benches) as can connect to USB port on laptop
> - good if Aquaero is not installed in the machine as can connect to motherboard USB header
> - good if Aquaero is installed and all 4 fan ports are used for fans, as can connect pump/s via Aquabus
> - first use - needs to be connected to motherboard to get an Aquabus address
> 
> PWM Version - Aqua Computer OR EK PWM G2
> good for control with no Aquaero as can connect to CPU fan header or other PWM header on motherboard - control with BIOS or Speedfan
> good for control with Aquaero as can connect to fan header - control from AquaSuite
> if more than 2 pumps - only get rpm reading from 1 pump (assuming they are connect to same header for control)
> 
> some things to consider
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> thanks for the recap
Click to expand...

There are literally decades of combined higher end water cooling experience in this thread, as well as some super seriously knowledgeable folks when it comes to Aquaero and AquaComputer gear.

If you're not familiar with the Aquaero, you wouldn't know you could create virtual sensors and use delta t to control fan speeds . . . so much for the net know-it-alls . . . .

The Aquaero lets you create several virtual sensors . . . . I use 2 or 3 physical sensors in areas of the case where cool ambient inlet air comes in and use those physical sensors to create a virtual sensor called ambient . . I set the Aquaero to average those physical sensors, so I have a good representation of the real ambient temp

Then to create the delta t virtual sensor, I have the Aquaero subtract the virtual ambient from coolant inlet to a rad.

For dual loop setups, you can control the CPU loop and GPU loop based on delta t for each loop.

I'm not a Linux user, bet we have guys here that are, so they'll chime in to offer specific tips to help you there.

For AquaComputer and Aquaero/Aquasuite questions, always come here first.

Darlene


----------



## Jubijub

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> There are literally decades of combined higher end water cooling experience in this thread, as well as some super seriously knowledgeable folks when it comes to Aquaero and AquaComputer gear.
> 
> If you're not familiar with the Aquaero, you wouldn't know you could create virtual sensors and use delta t to control fan speeds . . . so much for the net know-it-alls . . . .
> 
> The Aquaero lets you create several virtual sensors . . . . I use 2 or 3 physical sensors in areas of the case where cool ambient inlet air comes in and use those physical sensors to create a virtual sensor called ambient . . I set the Aquaero to average those physical sensors, so I have a good representation of the real ambient temp
> 
> Then to create the delta t virtual sensor, I have the Aquaero subtract the virtual ambient from coolant inlet to a rad.
> 
> For dual loop setups, you can control the CPU loop and GPU loop based on delta t for each loop.
> 
> I'm not a Linux user, bet we have guys here that are, so they'll chime in to offer specific tips to help you there.
> 
> For AquaComputer and Aquaero/Aquasuite questions, always come here first.
> 
> Darlene


I will use delta T then. If it were dangerous I guess you wouldn't do it, and I saw some nice loops here









For Linux I guess there is no need to bother : if the Aquaero can autonomously pick all the info needed to regulate the fans / pump, the odds questions becomes irrelevant ( the question originated as I thought using win monitoring software was the only way to pass CPU temp. It is, but I don't need it in the end of I use delta T)

Thanks again for your help, I'll come back here to validate once I have my loop in more concrete details


----------



## Mega Man

Just to go further. Sensors may be off but they will always be off ie if something reads 3 deg of it will always.

If a sensor fails you can program a fallback setpoint


----------



## ruffhi

I have a 'left' and 'right' ambient temp sensors and they are always a little different. Aquaero lets you calibrate them (add or subtract a little bit) and now they are the same.


----------



## Jubijub

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> Just to go further. Sensors may be off but they will always be off ie if something reads 3 deg of it will always.
> 
> If a sensor fails you can program a fallback setpoint


I assume so. i can also set the mobo to raise an alert if the CPU T° goes bad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ruffhi*
> 
> I have a 'left' and 'right' ambient temp sensors and they are always a little different. Aquaero lets you calibrate them (add or subtract a little bit) and now they are the same.


I can also use the average as described above, and set an alert for stupid measures


----------



## fast_fate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fast_fate*
> 
> @Jubijub
> 
> Everything Diva said about auto control by creating a virtual sensor
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Splitty9 used as PWM distribution for only 2 pumps is a bit of overkill (but neat and tidy) . Only PWM and RPM pins are used, *PUMPS MUST ALWAYS BE POWERED DIRECTLY FROM PSU.*
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> and yes, with jumper in place for fan/pump control only the designated connector passes along the RPM signal.
> Moving the jumper turns the Splitty9 into an Aquabus hub with all pins enabled.
> 
> Things to consider about which pumps are most suitable for you.
> Yep, pretty much the same output and power consumption for the USB and PWM pumps.
> Noise factor determined by your choice of pump top, how you mount it and the speed pumps are operating at.
> Pumps are considered a set and forget item, so once you dial in the flow rate/noise factor you are happy with there's not much of a reason to adjust them.
> So I guess it boils down to what best suits your needs (how many fan headers to you need for fans) and what you think will be the easiest to wire up.
> 
> I have both - I use PWM in systems because I find the wiring much simpler and no need to aquire an Aquabus address
> but still find the USB is more useful on the test benches, even those which have an Aquaero fitted.
> 
> USB Version
> - good for external use (Test Benches) as can connect to USB port on laptop
> - good if Aquaero is not installed in the machine as can connect to motherboard USB header
> - good if Aquaero is installed and all 4 fan ports are used for fans, as can connect pump/s via Aquabus
> - first use - needs to be connected to motherboard to get an Aquabus address
> 
> PWM Version - Aqua Computer OR EK PWM G2
> good for control with no Aquaero as can connect to CPU fan header or other PWM header on motherboard - control with BIOS or Speedfan
> good for control with Aquaero as can connect to fan header - control from AquaSuite
> if more than 2 pumps - only get rpm reading from 1 pump (assuming they are connect to same header for control)
> 
> some things to consider


Maybe I/we need to reconsider my statement above









Given that the Aquaero 6 delivers 2.5 Amp per channel (more if the heat-sink is fitted)
and motherboards are now appearing that boast 2 Amp and even 3 Amp headers
maybe we can start considering appropriately rated "fan" headers as viable options to supply our pumps with power.

The *KK 254 headers and pins* appear to be rated for 4 Amps, so no problem there.

*DDC 18 Watt pumps have a max rating of 1.5 Amp*
*12 Volt D5 pumps are rated for 1.9 Amps* though I have seen the odd one run at over 2 Amp
*EDIT: Added* *DDC 3.25: Specs on EK site state 20 Watt @ 12 Volt = 1.66 Amp*

so is the connector the only thing not plug n play compatible.
yes and no I think.
DDC pumps all seem to be fitted with thinner wire their the D5 counterparts.
So simply re-pinning the DDC wires to suit the KK connector is an easy solution if you have a "solderless crimper" in your modding toolkit.
D5 pumps are fitted with much thicker wires so a "normal" crimp of pin onto wire is unlikely to be very effective. The thickness of the wire may not even fit into the connector.
Stripping extra insulation from the D5 wires and soldering wire in place (insulation not crimped) before crimping may be an option to try.
The easiest option for powering a D5 from a fan header would be a "fan to 4 pin Molex" adapter, but then if doing that why not just power direct from the PSU ??

Starting to go in circles I think, so I'll leave my thoughts for a while and give us something to think about.
I'm sure people are already powering pumps from the Aquaero 6
If you are or have done, please share you experience.
I'm sure reader's (myself included) would like to hear 1st hand confirmation that is is working fine (or not)









cheers








f_f


----------



## stren

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fast_fate*
> 
> [/SPOILER]
> 
> Maybe I/we need to reconsider my statement above
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Given that the Aquaero 6 delivers 2.5 Amp per channel (more if the heat-sink is fitted)
> and motherboards are now appearing that boast 2 Amp and even 3 Amp headers
> maybe we can start considering appropriately rated "fan" headers as viable options to supply pumps our with power.
> 
> The *KK 254 headers and pins* appear to be rated for 4 Amps, so no problem there.
> 
> *DDC 18 Watt pumps have a max rating of 1.5 Amp*
> *12 Volt D5 pumps are rated for 1.9 Amps* though I have seen the odd one run at over 2 Amp
> 
> so is the connector the only thing not plug n play compatible.
> yes and no I think.
> DDC pumps all seem to be fitted with thinner wire their the D5 counterparts.
> So simply re-pinning the DDC wires to suit the KK connector is an easy solution if you have a "solderless crimper" in your modding toolkit.
> D5 pumps are fitted with much thicker wires so a "normal" crimp of pin onto wire is unlikely to be very effective. The thickness of the wire may not even fit into the connector.
> Stripping extra insulation from the D5 wires and soldering wire in place (insulation not crimped) before crimping may be an option to try.
> The easiest option for powering a D5 from a fan header would be a "fan to 4 pin Molex" adapter, but then if doing that why not just power direct from the PSU ??
> 
> Starting to go in circles I think, so I'll leave my thoughts for a while and give us something to think about.
> I'm sure people are already powering pumps from the Aquaero 6
> If you are or have done, please share you experience.
> I'm sure reader's (myself included) would like to hear 1st hand confirmation that is is working fine (or not)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> cheers
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> f_f


While I reckon you can do this there's not really a need to apart from tidier wiring which I know FF is a little OCD about haha. Afterall if have PWM control though there is no reason to also put them on a voltage controller. It would make sense for a non pwm pump that's rpm will vary with the voltage. Motherboard headers in my limited experience generally seem to be able to hit 12V at their rated currents. The Aquaero however usually has some headroom (more accurately - non zero output impedance) with respect to 12V at its rated currents. So if you do it with an aquaero you may miss out on the maximum pump rpm, maybe that's acceptable. You'll also generate more heat in the voltage controller/aquaero.


----------



## apw63

I repined both of my swiftech mcp35x to 4 pin fan adapters. I have them on separate channels, aquaero 6 lt. I run all of my fans off the master aquaero 6. The pumps run just fine. I only run them at 60% max.


----------



## ChiTownButcher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *apw63*
> 
> I repined both of my swiftech mcp35x to 4 pin fan adapters. I have them on separate channels, aquaero 6 lt. I run all of my fans off the master aquaero 6. The pumps run just fine. I only run them at 60% max.


Where did you find an adaptor the combines the 2 wires on the fan plug and 2 wires on the molex into 1 4-pin fan connector? Only ask because I notice Asus has 3amp pwm pump headers on their new boards


----------



## apw63

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ChiTownButcher*
> 
> Where did you find an adaptor the combines the 2 wires on the fan plug and 2 wires on the molex into 1 4-pin fan connector? Only ask because I notice Asus has 3amp pwm pump headers on their new boards


MMM 4-Pin PWM Female Connector - Black (MOD-0112)

Phobya Fan Pin - 20ct | Female (82384)


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ChiTownButcher*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *apw63*
> 
> I repined both of my swiftech mcp35x to 4 pin fan adapters. I have them on separate channels, aquaero 6 lt. I run all of my fans off the master aquaero 6. The pumps run just fine. I only run them at 60% max.
> 
> 
> 
> Where did you find an adaptor the combines the 2 wires on the fan plug and 2 wires on the molex into 1 4-pin fan connector? Only ask because I notice Asus has 3amp pwm pump headers on their new boards
Click to expand...

just to expand, he didnt he redid the wiring. that said they do exist


----------



## apw63

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> just to expand, he didnt he redid the wiring. that said they do exist


That's for 3 pin not 4 pin pwm. I bet I could make one for pwm


----------



## ChiTownButcher

I knew that a rewire could be done, just thought an adaptor is a better option so that I can still fill the system with the computer turned off and a Molex from an outside PSU. Never seen a 4pin adaptor


----------



## apw63

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ChiTownButcher*
> 
> I knew that a rewire could be done, just thought an adaptor is a better option so that I can still fill the system with the computer turned off and a Molex from an outside PSU. Never seen a 4pin adaptor


When I bleed my system. In the past I would unplug the pumps from the AQ 6. I have a old atx power supply. I converted it in to a bench top power supply. I have an adapter that I built. It plugs straight from the Bench psu in to the pumps. I have not bleed my system sense the addition of the AQ lt. I could just unplug the AQ lt from system psu and plug in bench psu. I've been toying with the idea of building a adapter with a switch. So that I could flip the switch one way, power pumps from bench psu, flip switch other way, power pumps from AQ lt. I would wire it up to make it a permanent part of my build.


----------



## tbuttery

Random question guys....how can I get my CPU Temp in Aquasuite? I am running a i7-7700k and an Aquaero 5 LT. I've heard of downloading HWMonitor, but my 5 LT still doesn't pick up the temps.

I should also mention that I only see CPU usage in the monitor and no temps....BOIS update??


----------



## apw63

The latest ver of aquasuite has a built in ver of HWMonitor. If you downloaded HWMonitor same applies. In aquasuite go to sensors, software sensors. you will have to activate the sensor and select HWMonitor from the drop down list. You should be able to pick your CPU out of the available sensors.


----------



## tbuttery

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *apw63*
> 
> The latest ver of aquasuite has a built in ver of HWMonitor. If you downloaded HWMonitor same applies. In aquasuite go to sensors, software sensors. you will have to activate the sensor and select HWMonitor from the drop down list. You should be able to pick your CPU out of the available sensors.


Understand. But I don't even have a Temp readout in open hardware monitor. Only percentage of load.

In HWMonitor I can see my temps, but that isn't supported.

EDIT....downloaded a monitor and now it is reporting. But, do I have to keepp the monitor running for it to report to Aquaero?


----------



## RnRollie

Aquasuite now sporting CPU-ID HWmonitor? I though it was using the Open Hardware Monitor (dll) from Michael Möller?


----------



## skingun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tbuttery*
> 
> Understand. But I don't even have a Temp readout in open hardware monitor. Only percentage of load.
> 
> In HWMonitor I can see my temps, but that isn't supported.
> 
> EDIT....downloaded a monitor and now it is reporting. But, do I have to keepp the monitor running for it to report to Aquaero?


Use HWiNFO


----------



## apw63

I was mistaking. Aquasuite has a version of HWiNFO installed.


----------



## tbuttery

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skingun*
> 
> Use HWiNFO


Yes I understand and that is what I am using. But it needs to be running for the Aquaero to pull data from it correct? So I should probably have that start in the background when my PC starts up as well.


----------



## skingun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tbuttery*
> 
> Yes I understand and that is what I am using. But it needs to be running for the Aquaero to pull data from it correct? So I should probably have that start in the background when my PC starts up as well.


That's right. I'm not at home so cannot check the settings. I have it setup to open and minimise on start up


----------



## Barefooter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tbuttery*
> 
> Yes I understand and that is what I am using. But it needs to be running for the Aquaero to pull data from it correct? So I should probably have that start in the background when my PC starts up as well.


Yes as skingun stated, go into settings and set to start with windows. You can set it to minimize as well.

I have mine set to start with windows and display on my second monitor.


----------



## Master Chicken

Does anyone happen to know the minimum fan RPM that the Aquaero will report? For example, it seems that 50ma is about the minimum current draw on a fan output that my AQ6 will report on its display. There is probably some lower rpm limit in the AQ firmware for display, just trying to figure out what that is.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Master Chicken*
> 
> Does anyone happen to know the minimum fan RPM that the Aquaero will report? For example, it seems that 50ma is about the minimum current draw on a fan output that my AQ6 will report on its display. There is probably some lower rpm limit in the AQ firmware for display, just trying to figure out what that is.


Minimum displayable RPM is more a matter of electronics and sample time for pulses on each fan channel.

As a practical matter, about 240 to 300 seems to be the lowest I've seen

The tach signal from a fan is 2 pulses per revolution, so to give it some numbers, at only 300 rpm, that would be 600 pulses per minute, or 10 per second.

The fan controller has to sample each channel and then update the display, so each channel gets its pulses counted for only a fraction of a second.

To use some numbers, if 5 channels are sampled and then the display updated for half a second, that's 0.1 seconds for each of the 5 samples, and then the display updates and stays fixed for half a second

At very low speeds, there could be counting intervals with no pulses, and then an interval with 2, so most controllers would be programmed to ignore very low counts because when translated to RPM, the result would swing wildly.

Obviously not every counting/sampling circuit is the same, but most are similar.


----------



## Master Chicken

Thanks. I get the sampling ... but sometimes the display update is disconnected from the sampling process. For example, the firmware may use a sliding window approach where they keep 5 seconds worth of counts and update the data window every second at which point they drop the oldest set and add a new set and recompute. Then they just display the 5 second data which would convey the average over that period.

I'm going to use the channel to convey current information back to the AQ6 to control a device. For example, 3250rpm is actually 32.5 amps.

I have a controller design that I will make eventually for it, but in the near term I want to use the AQ6 as it seems fully capable of doing what I need. Plus ... free interface and I hate doing user interface code.


----------



## ruffhi

I've got a faulty connection somewhere in my fan wiring ... such that the RPM is not getting from the FAN hub in my pedestal to the Aquaero. I've drained my loop, removed the case from the pedestal and checked the wiring ... it looks ok to me.

I've got a jumper to turn my PSU on ... is there a way I can turn the Aquaero on and have it control the pedestal fans without starting the PC. Restarting the PC would me refilling the loop or disconnecting the CPU block and adding an air cooler.


----------



## Mega Man

All I do is power up the psu and the aq starts.


----------



## skingun

Just plug a 4 pin molex into the aquaero from your PSU. Leave everything else connected and jump the mobo lead.


----------



## ruffhi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> All I do is power up the psu and the aq starts.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skingun*
> 
> Just plug a 4 pin molex into the aquaero from your PSU. Leave everything else connected and jump the mobo lead.


Hmm ... that is exactly how I have it set up.

*Edit*: I just checked again and the Aquaero comes on to the extent that the screen is backlit. Pressing the three buttons does nothing and nothing shows on the screen.

Next steps?


----------



## Jubijub

Hello again,

After reading quite a lot, it seems most people agree PWM is not a must on pumps, and recommend vario types of pump (on setting 2 or 3, depending on noise tolerance).

If I look at the EKWB D5 vario, it has a signal plug (3pin fan connector). How can I leverage this with the AQ6 ? In that case all I want is for it to be aware of the pump speed

My understanding is that I can plug this on a fan connector 1/2/3/4 which would eat a channel for each pump. Is there a better way ?


----------



## apw63

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jubijub*
> 
> Hello again,
> 
> After reading quite a lot, it seems most people agree PWM is not a must on pumps, and recommend vario types of pump (on setting 2 or 3, depending on noise tolerance).
> 
> If I look at the EKWB D5 vario, it has a signal plug (3pin fan connector). How can I leverage this with the AQ6 ? In that case all I want is for it to be aware of the pump speed
> 
> My understanding is that I can plug this on a fan connector 1/2/3/4 which would eat a channel for each pump. Is there a better way ?


You could think about the Aquacomputer D5 Pump Mechanics with USB and Aquabus Interface . This is essentially a d5 variable with aquasuite/bus control instead of the red nob. This would free up one of your 4 channels.


----------



## Jubijub

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *apw63*
> 
> You could think about the Aquacomputer D5 Pump Mechanics with USB and Aquabus Interface . This is essentially a d5 variable with aquasuite/bus control instead of the red nob. This would free up one of your 4 channels.


In the meantime I saw the EK gen2 does support Intel PWM and thus works with AQ6. This would probably be my choice, with a PWM splitter (or Splitty9, as I'm not sure how PWM splitter handle the return RPM information from multiple sources (the splitty9 explicitly only return one)
For the Aquacomputer D5 USB, I'm not sure I see the benefits of using one of the internal USB port for something that would work over pure PWM using the same cable


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jubijub*
> 
> In the meantime I saw the EK gen2 does support Intel PWM and thus works with AQ6. This would probably be my choice, with a PWM splitter (or Splitty9, as I'm not sure how PWM splitter handle the return RPM information from multiple sources (the splitty9 explicitly only return one)
> For the Aquacomputer D5 USB, I'm not sure I see the benefits of using one of the internal USB port for something that would work over pure PWM using the same cable


You would use the aquabus not usb


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jubijub*
> 
> Hello again,
> 
> After reading quite a lot, it seems most people agree PWM is not a must on pumps, and recommend vario types of pump (on setting 2 or 3, depending on noise tolerance).
> 
> If I look at the EKWB D5 vario, it has a signal plug (3pin fan connector). How can I leverage this with the AQ6 ? In that case all I want is for it to be aware of the pump speed
> 
> My understanding is that I can plug this on a fan connector 1/2/3/4 which would eat a channel for each pump. Is there a better way ?


plug it into your motherboard


----------



## Jubijub

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> You would use the aquabus not usb


OK, I finally got how this would work with two pumps (their doc is clear as mud)
- both pump need to be connected to USB for initial setup (ie set the priority to Aquabus in the Aquasuite as explained here http://www.serifwebresources.com/phpBB2mt/viewtopic.php?t=7&sid=bc4755543128ab18654907b9d5b449a9&forumid=872280 )
- once configured I can plug the Aquabus only
- for 2 pumps, I can use a splitty9 set as an aquabus splitter (no idea how that would work in the Aquasuite)

I'm a bit concerned by the convoluted setup, it is super far from plug and play, Germans have made me used to better engineering









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> plug it into your motherboard


it would work from a pumping perspective, but I would get 0 control and 0 monitoring from the AQ6 (unless I use Aida64 or HWMonitor to get at least monitoring, which means it would only work on Windows, and this is a no go as I would like a dual boot. And this option still gives 0 control)


----------



## GTXJackBauer

1. You plug in the pumps via USB.

2. Set their individual unique IDs while in USB mode.

3. Change them from USB to Aquabus control.

4. Tada

Btw, you could leave both USB and Aquabus plugged in if you'd like.

As for the SPLITTY9, there's a marked jumper to either have it set as a fan or a Aquabus hub.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jubijub*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> plug it into your motherboard
> 
> 
> 
> it would work from a pumping perspective, but I would get 0 control and 0 monitoring from the AQ6 (unless I use Aida64 or HWMonitor to get at least monitoring, which means it would only work on Windows, and this is a no go as I would like a dual boot. And this option still gives 0 control)
Click to expand...

you were talking about a vario, there is 0 control for control you turn the knob. the RPM signal is just that, an rpm signal

i use my mobo fan headers for just that - monitoring speeds


----------



## Jubijub

Apologies, there has been quite a lot of back and forth in my mind between vario, PWM and Aquabus versions of the D5


----------



## Mega Man

it is np


----------



## havoc315

So I'm new to the whole w/c seen and I've gotten mostly done I'm redoing sleeving and wiring but I hooked up aq6 pro before I started with all fans, 4 on one header 5 on another then 2 and 5 and two temp sensors and all worked fine outside case.
Now I have all that plus 1 more temp and a flow meter plus I got a remote since then too, and now my fans are not showing up or starting at all but all other sensors work fine, so I'm at a loss at what's happened.
I checked all sources of power and made sure all is 100% and on pwm also tried to and power. I've tried using a different fan and just one fan still nothing.
I have not been able to actually update firmware seeing as my computer isn't finished yet but it worked fine before I started and some then the only thing I did was change the faceplate and install it...ive also done a soft reset ,next will do hard one but of anyone has any ideas before I'd appreciate it, thanks...Brandon


----------



## chibi

Slightly off topic but, anyone able to help with an Aquacomputer vendor? I've googled for the last hour and couldn't find anyone with stock for a GPU block.
I tried the following vendors and it's out of stock:

Aquacomputer
Aquatuning
Performance PC's
Modmymods
OC CO UK
Amazon.com
Looking for an Aquacomputer Kryographics Pascal for Nvidia TITAN X/1080 Ti - Black Edition, Nickel Plated Version.

@Shoggy - do you have a secret stash hidden somewhere?









Thanks!


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chibi*
> 
> Slightly off topic but, anyone able to help with an Aquacomputer vendor? I've googled for the last hour and couldn't find anyone with stock for a GPU block.
> I tried the following vendors and it's out of stock:
> 
> Aquacomputer
> Aquatuning
> Performance PC's
> Modmymods
> OC CO UK
> Amazon.com
> Looking for an Aquacomputer Kryographics Pascal for Nvidia TITAN X/1080 Ti - Black Edition, Nickel Plated Version.
> 
> @Shoggy - do you have a secret stash hidden somewhere?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks!


Try HighFlow.nl, E-mail them and ask if they can get a hold of one(They usually can). Their currently listed as out of stock, I know their getting a shipment from AquaComputer at the end of the week.


----------



## chibi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> Try HighFlow.nl, E-mail them and ask if they can get a hold of one(They usually can). Their currently listed as out of stock, I know their getting a shipment from AquaComputer at the end of the week.


Thanks for the tip, will send them an email now!


----------



## 44TZL

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chibi*
> 
> Thanks for the tip, will send them an email now!


http://www.watercoolinguk.co.uk has aqua computer cpu blocks in stock... (just bought a Aquaero 6LT and Hardware Labs rad from them)


----------



## chibi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *44TZL*
> 
> http://www.watercoolinguk.co.uk has aqua computer cpu blocks in stock... (just bought a Aquaero 6LT and Hardware Labs rad from them)


Just checked their site, all the Pascal Titan X blocks are out of stock.


----------



## 44TZL

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chibi*
> 
> Just checked their site, all the Pascal Titan X blocks are out of stock.


Sorry thought you were after CPU blocks.


----------



## Deeptek

I am wanting to know if I get an Aquaero 6XT what is the way that it is powered. Isnt it it connected to a USB2.0 Header? If thats the case would I just need to get a converter and use it in my 3.0 to get it to work on my Strix Z270i board?


----------



## Master Chicken

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Deeptek*
> 
> I am wanting to know if I get an Aquaero 6XT what is the way that it is powered. Isnt it it connected to a USB2.0 Header? If thats the case would I just need to get a converter and use it in my 3.0 to get it to work on my Strix Z270i board?


It gets power from what some call a Molex connector as was commonly used on older hard drives but is properly an AMP Mate-N-Lock connector. The chances of you having one of these coming off of your power supply is pretty high so I wouldn't sweat it.


----------



## Deeptek

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Master Chicken*
> 
> It gets power from what some call a Molex connector as was commonly used on older hard drives but is properly an AMP Mate-N-Lock connector. The chances of you having one of these coming off of your power supply is pretty high so I wouldn't sweat it.


Thanks,

I was referring to the USB2.0 for the AquaSuite software.. That is needed to access the controller via the software ?


----------



## Master Chicken

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Deeptek*
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> I was referring to the USB2.0 for the AquaSuite software.. That is needed to access the controller via the software ?


So you meant "how does it communicate with the PC" and not "how is it powered". I get it. I see that MB has no internal USB 2.0 ports. As you mentioned, it looks like it only has a USB 3.0 header on-board for internal use. I suspect you'll need some kind of small hub to convert.


----------



## Mega Man

yes there is a usb 2 port built into every usb 3 port


----------



## Deeptek

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> yes there is a usb 2 port built into every usb 3 port


Care to show me which pins to use?

Also.. What is the difference in the 5XT and the 6XT? Pay the extra and just get the 6XT?


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Deeptek*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> yes there is a usb 2 port built into every usb 3 port
> 
> 
> 
> Care to show me which pins to use?
> 
> Also.. What is the difference in the 5XT and the 6XT? Pay the extra and just get the 6XT?
Click to expand...

http://www.ventshop.net/site/node/9

hope that helps

and yes get the 6..... better power delivery ( no overheating ) and if not doing power then 4 pwm ports rather then 1 ( on the 5 )


----------



## becks

Hey everyone,

I have a Aquaero 6 LT for my new build, and since I am still waiting for some parts to start that one I tough I give it a shot in my old PC so I can test some fans and feel the software a bit more.

Very happy with the general feel of the hardware and what's capable of doing but I encountered a problem...
Whenever i connect it to the PC, if I have my headphones on, I hear a random "electric crackling" at times ( really hard to describe the sound...its like having your windows volume up at max and disconnecting your headphones and you hear that electrical disconnection sound....) followed by system instability (Random BSOD's with random codes...)

So my question is....anyone here had that happening to them ? Should I just assume its my old system ? Should I RMA the aquaero ?


Spoiler: Pics of Aquaero in action


----------



## Master Chicken

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> http://www.ventshop.net/site/node/9
> 
> hope that helps
> 
> and yes get the 6..... better power delivery ( no overheating ) and if not doing power then 4 pwm ports rather then 1 ( on the 5 )


Very nice. I wonder if anyone makes a small snap-in breakout board for that ... as he suggested might exist on his web page. I can't seem to locate one but I've only been looking for a few minutes. That would be handy given the amount of internal stuff that's linked using USB 2.0 these days ... the AQ being one example.

Edit:

Ah, found one. I hope it's OK to link to FleaBay on OCN. Not looking to get whacked. Just trying to help and learn.

USB 3.0 to 2.0 internal adapter


----------



## Barefooter

Here's my custom Aquaero XT face plate.


I made a stealth mount for an Aquaero LT too. More pics on how I did it in this post of my build log.
Here's from the inside.


Front view.


Today I was testing my EK Vardar F3-140ER fans just hooked up to a splitty and the Aquaero on the bench. I was planning on running eight of these fans on some of the channels, but to my surprise the fans fire up and then shut down right away. I'm getting an over current warning for that channel. By the review I read with start up draw, I thought eight would be ok, apparently not.

It will start and run with six of these fans just fine. I'll have to change my plans accordingly now.

Here's the RPMs I'm getting at 100%:
1 fan - 1850 RPMs
4 fans - 1730 RPMs
6 fans - 1650 RPMs

So the more fans per channel the less RPMs available.

I usually use Aquasuite software for controlling the fans. Right now I just have the Aquero powered on the bench with one channel hooked up. Can anyone tell me how to adjust the fan speed down from the touch screen? I want to see how low an RPM I can get before they shut off.


----------



## fast_fate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Barefooter*
> 
> 
> Here's the RPMs I'm getting at 100%:
> 1 fan - 1850 RPMs
> 4 fans - 1730 RPMs
> 6 fans - 1650 RPMs
> 
> So the more fans per channel the less RPMs available.
> 
> I usually use Aquasuite software for controlling the fans. Right now I just have the Aquero powered on the bench with one channel hooked up.
> *Can anyone tell me how to adjust the fan speed down from the touch screen?*
> I want to see how low an RPM I can get before they shut off.


Settings
Menu
Outputs
Fans
Select your fan Channel to adjust
Maximum Power..
Adjust % up or down









when you have 6 fans running (or Less), note down the Volts, Amps for the fans as well as the controller temperature.
take the readings again as you add one fan at a time.
That info may be useful for you later on when setting up other fan channels.

I have 12 x *B12-3 eLoops* reporting to the Aquaero, but powered from a Power Adjust 3.
They are specced for 1900rpm.

At 100% power output I get the following readings from AquaSuite:
Power: 100%
Volts: 10.9
Amps: 2.05
RPM: 1495

In my case what is lowering the rpm speed is the voltage drop of the Power Adjust as the load increases.

The RPM decrease for the fans probably won't even matter to you at the end of the day - unless you're benching heavily, even then maybe not.
BUT yes - you probably do need each Aquaero output channel to be able to cope with all attached fans running at 100%









As it turns out my 19oo rpm fans never go above 1300rpm or ~ 8.2 Volts anyway 
and that is with full system load, CPU @100% and 3 x GPUs all running above 90%
My controller curves follow Coolant Temp / Air Intake Temp Delta.
Max Delta temp recorded so far has been 7°C
so I'm pretty happy with the cooling package as a whole - lost Voltage / Fan RPM has not mattered for me.


----------



## Revan654

Quick Question: Is their any way to change the channel the remote is broadcasting on? I have three 6XT (one in PC1 & two in PC2). Anytime I press the remote the screens for all the 6XT change. I don't want to alter settings on one by mistake when I'm changing the settings on another.


----------



## fast_fate

messed around with my controllers today for the fans in Salive8
weather getting cooler so decided to try less aggressive fan curves.

Both pumps running at full speed
1st all fans running at 100% with no load on CPU or GPU's to get a base-line of sorts.
This produced an Air/Water delta of ~3.0°C
before applying load to the CPU and graphics cards.
Under load and all fans at 100% temps were great and delta temp peaked at 5.4°C



After stopping the applied load - XTU CPU Stress test and RealBench OpenCL - to let coolant temp lower again
I loaded my fan controller curves - one for roof rad fans and another for everything else.
and started stressing the system again.
Temps still good, fan speeds OK: 1150rpm roof rads and ~1000rpm everywhere else
delta peaked at 6.5°C.
and the curves didn't really even kick in - fans pretty much at their minimum operating voltages.

Thanks AquaComputer for a fully configurable controller


----------



## Barefooter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fast_fate*
> 
> Settings
> Menu
> Outputs
> Fans
> Select your fan Channel to adjust
> Maximum Power..
> Adjust % up or down
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> when you have 6 fans running (or Less), note down the Volts, Amps for the fans as well as the controller temperature.
> take the readings again as you add one fan at a time.
> That info may be useful for you later on when setting up other fan channels.
> 
> I have 12 x *B12-3 eLoops* reporting to the Aquaero, but powered from a Power Adjust 3.
> They are specced for 1900rpm.
> 
> At 100% power output I get the following readings from AquaSuite:
> Power: 100%
> Volts: 10.9
> Amps: 2.05
> RPM: 1495
> 
> In my case what is lowering the rpm speed is the voltage drop of the Power Adjust as the load increases.
> 
> The RPM decrease for the fans probably won't even matter to you at the end of the day - unless you're benching heavily, even then maybe not.
> BUT yes - you probably do need each Aquaero output channel to be able to cope with all attached fans running at 100%
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As it turns out my 19oo rpm fans never go above 1300rpm or ~ 8.2 Volts anyway 
> and that is with full system load, CPU @100% and 3 x GPUs all running above 90%
> My controller curves follow Coolant Temp / Air Intake Temp Delta.
> Max Delta temp recorded so far has been 7°C
> so I'm pretty happy with the cooling package as a whole - lost Voltage / Fan RPM has not mattered for me.


Thanks Fast for the answer and the great info! So many pages in there if you aren't used to navigating it, and the manual is only slightly helpful.

I'm not too concerned with the high end of the RPM range, like you said benching would be about the only time I ever crank them up that high.

The main reason I bought these fans is because of the low RPM range control. My previous favorite 140mm fans were the Noise Blocker PK-PS fans which I could get down to about 400 RPMs.

I ran some tests with the EK Vardars with 6 fans, 4 fans and a single fan, as well as a comparison with a Noise Blocker PK-PS. I did a spread sheet with the Volts, Amps and Temps too, here's just the power % and RPMs. 35% is probably as low as I'll go, but they can go lower.

*EK Vardar F3-140ER 6 Fans one channel*
Power% RPM
100 --- 1745
35 --- 165
32 --- 98 still spinning

*EK Vardar F3-140ER 4 Fans one channel*
Power % RPM
100 --- 1780
35 --- 145
32 --- 102 still spinning

*EK Vardar F3-140ER 1 Fan*
Power % RPM
100 --- 1800
35 --- 125
33 --- 81 stopped

*Noise Blocker 140 PK-PS 1 Fan*
Power % RPM
100 --- 1415
35 --- 540
25 --- 400
20 --- 370 low as it would go

I am really surprised how slow the EK Vardars can go. Seriously... sub 200 RPMs! You can practically count the fan blades as they spin, and completely silent.


----------



## ruffhi

@Fast Fate ... I find that running my pumps at max adds to the water temp. Try running your pumps at 50% and see if you get lower water / cpu delta.


----------



## fast_fate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ruffhi*
> 
> @Fast Fate ... I find that running my pumps at max adds to the water temp. Try running your pumps at 50% and see if you get lower water / cpu delta.


The 3 GPU's are parrallel.
so the 0.9 GPM to 1.0 GPM system flow rate is split between the cards.
So don't want to lower pump speed.
the pumps at 100% are inaudible so it's not an issue for me


----------



## Mega Man

just make sure to build your loop with enough rad space that your loop doesnt heat up XD


----------



## becks

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *becks*
> 
> Hey everyone,
> 
> I have a Aquaero 6 LT for my new build, and since I am still waiting for some parts to start that one I tough I give it a shot in my old PC so I can test some fans and feel the software a bit more.
> 
> Very happy with the general feel of the hardware and what's capable of doing but I encountered a problem...
> Whenever i connect it to the PC, if I have my headphones on, I hear a random "electric crackling" at times ( really hard to describe the sound...its like having your windows volume up at max and disconnecting your headphones and you hear that electrical disconnection sound....) followed by system instability (Random BSOD's with random codes...)
> 
> So my question is....anyone here had that happening to them ? Should I just assume its my old system ? Should I RMA the aquaero ?
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Pics of Aquaero in action






Anyone ?!


----------



## Master Chicken

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *becks*
> 
> 
> Anyone ?!


Since it's not a constant frequency hum, it's harder to say ... probably not induced signal noise or noise feeding back via a ground loop.

It almost sounds as though some vibration in the system (possibly caused as a result of running something on the AQ) is playing havoc on a marginal connection somewhere ... that scratchy connect/disconnect as you describe.


----------



## side37

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *becks*
> 
> 
> Anyone ?!


Are your headphones plugged in via your case's front panel connectors or does your headphone cable run near the Aquaero or other PC components? I've seen headphones pickup interference like this before but it wouldn't explain your stability problems. I'd try the Aquaero on another PC if you can.


----------



## GTXJackBauer

You could be getting interference as already stated. I had issues with my USB headset when it was plugged in the rear panel but once I plugged them onto the front panel of the case, the static mess went away. I can't remember if this was before or after the AQ.

What headphones are these btw? Give us a quick run down of your specs as well.


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> Quick Question: Is their any way to change the channel the remote is broadcasting on? I have three 6XT (one in PC1 & two in PC2). Anytime I press the remote the screens for all the 6XT change. I don't want to alter settings on one by mistake when I'm changing the settings on another.


Anyone able to help?


----------



## becks

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Master Chicken*


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *side37*


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GTXJackBauer*


Hmm.. So it might not be or it might be AQ (if you refer to the aquaero ).. will have to try it on the new system once that is up and running somewhere at the end of the month..
The headphones are connected to the back of the PC ( I do not use the front one, It is disconnected as It had ground problems and gave only head aches.. the burden of a bad and old case)
As you can see from the picture I rune it for test purpose so it wasn't properly mounted inside the case and it run out of a cardboard box to avoid any short with the case ... so maybe that was doing the problem (no ground with the case...)

System is:

XFX XTR 550W supply 80+ Gold
Asus P5E Deluxe
Intel Q8400
4x2Gb Kingston Hyper X
256 Kingston SSD V300
Gainward GTX 260

Headphones are Razer Kraken Pro


----------



## wa3pnt

The remote operates as an IR (Infra Red) device, and as such there is no way that I know of to isolate a device to a particular receiver.

The IR signal is line of sight, although sometimes the device will respond if the IR signal bounces off of something and arrives at the IR receiver in the Aquaero 6XT.

The only way to accomplish what you need to do is to shield the computers you do not want to respond while you send the IR signal to the one you do want to respond.

RodeoGeorge


----------



## iamjanco

Hi folks. I've got a bunch of pwm SW3 fans I'd like to use in a new build and would need to order ten or so more to complete it. I checked bequiet's forum for anything about the external pull-up issue associated with using the pwm versions of the SW3 with a 6XT, but didn't find anything there and don't know whether they're working on a fix for this. That said, my plans include using my 6XT with two AC D5 mechanics/USB pumps, one per loop. I've also got enough splitty9s and ultra poweradjust 3s to set things up in a number of ways, and would like to know if I should still address the SW3 pull-up issue using Diva's mod with the fans.

Oh, and a question for Shoggy: I've got a couple of Aqualis 6. XT reservoirs, and I need a new bottom mounting bracket for one of them. Is this something I could order from you guys directly?

TIA!


----------



## ruffhi

I want to display liters per hour and gallons per minute. Aquasuite will do one natively ... but only one. Luckily for me, these two items are related mathematically. So ... how can I calculate within Aquasuite the other one.

LPH = GPM * 60 * 3.78541


----------



## Shoggy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> Quick Question: Is their any way to change the channel the remote is broadcasting on? I have three 6XT (one in PC1 & two in PC2). Anytime I press the remote the screens for all the 6XT change. I don't want to alter settings on one by mistake when I'm changing the settings on another.


In the device itself: go to the infrared menu and activate the multi device mode. Now you can set a wake-up key for this specific device. Repeat this for all other devices but assign different wake-up keys.

On the remote, press the home button (the one with the house): this will let all devices in multi mode know, that you want to select one of them. Now press the activation key of the one that you want to use and only this one will stay awake for further IR commands. The other devices realize it was not their activation key so they ignore all further IR commands with exception of the home button. This will reset the status for all devices (also the selected one) so you can switch to another one.


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> In the device itself: go to the infrared menu and activate the multi device mode. Now you can set a wake-up key for this specific device. Repeat this for all other devices but assign different wake-up keys.
> 
> On the remote, press the home button (the one with the house): this will let all devices in multi mode know, that you want to select one of them. Now press the activation key of the one that you want to use and only this one will stay awake for further IR commands. The other devices realize it was not their activation key so they ignore all further IR commands with exception of the home button. This will reset the status for all devices (also the selected one) so you can switch to another one.


Thanks for reply.


----------



## Revan654

1. I have a Flow 400, I was wondering where in the loop would be the best place to put flow sensor? Could I attach to to one of my res(Nearing the end of my loop)? or should I place it earlier in the loop? I'm using 16mm fittings if that matters.

2. I have a bunch of pass through & probe temperature fittings. On another build I put the temperature probe sensor at the bottom of my two res. Anytime I turn on my PC the temperature sensors goes nuts in Aquasuite & aquaero 6 XT(When the PC is off the temperature reading is fine). It just jumps around from 40 to 20 to 30, etc... I guess what I want to know whats the best place to put these temperature fittings at so they don't go nuts in my current PC build.

I assume the issue with temperature probes in my other PC is the flow is to strong when it returns to the res?


----------



## apw63

Anywhere that you can get a min of 5 cm of straight tubing on both sides of the sensor.

I have inline temp sensors on the inlet of my first of 3 inline RADs. One on the outlet of the last RAD. One on the outlets of CPU and GPU. I don't get and erratic readings on any of them. I only use the aquacomputer ones.


----------



## lovan6

1. I install the MPS400 after the pump from my second radiator output > MPS400 > Video card block.
The sensor has factory calibration for 6mm,8mm,10mm Inner diameter tube. If you have a 12/16 mm it will also work but its not that accurate and need calibration.

2. On the temperature fitting probe G 1/4, Install to radiator input and output and set both to Virtual sensor absolute temp difference + Ambient sensor to create Delta T.

3. For further understanding, read GTXJackBauer line 10

https://forum.aquacomputer.de/weitere-foren/english-forum/107663-where-do-i-meassure-room-temp/?s=fb879dcd6b33e12619ff72d73206a02d31c8b99f


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *apw63*
> 
> Anywhere that you can get a min of 5 cm of straight tubing on both sides of the sensor.
> 
> I have inline temp sensors on the inlet of my first of 3 inline RADs. One on the outlet of the last RAD. One on the outlets of CPU and GPU. I don't get and erratic readings on any of them. I only use the aquacomputer ones.


ok, I'll make a very short cut of tubing on the one side, the other side already has enough tubing. going toward the flow sensor.

The temp sensors might have went bad(Atlease that's what AquaComputer Support told me). Since I used some old Bitspower sensors I had laying around. I have brand new Aquacomputer, Barrow & Bitspower sensors. Hopefully they will work.


----------



## g0barry

I wanted to report a bug I noticed with the aquasuite software. If you create a virtual temperature sensor of temperature difference type with the global settings set to Fahrenheit, the value it calculates is way off. I recreated the same thing after setting the global setting back to Celsius , and it calculates it accurately.

Edit to add, this is using Aquasuite 2017-1.3 with an Aquaero 6 PRO being run without the screen like an LT.

Thanks


----------



## Shoggy

This is known since years and can not be fixed due the internal structure of the device that works with Celsius. The problem with Fahrenheit is that you can not simply convert such values back and forth while doing any calculations with them.


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *g0barry*
> 
> I wanted to report a bug I noticed with the aquasuite software. If you create a virtual temperature sensor of temperature difference type with the global settings set to Fahrenheit, the value it calculates is way off. I recreated the same thing after setting the global setting back to Celsius , and it calculates it accurately.
> 
> Edit to add, this is using Aquasuite 2017-1.3 with an Aquaero 6 PRO being run without the screen like an LT.
> 
> Thanks


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> This is known since years and can not be fixed due the internal structure of the device that works with Celsius. The problem with Fahrenheit is that you can not simply convert such values back and forth while doing any calculations with them.


I do not understand why anyone in 21st century not using celsius?????


----------



## ChiTownButcher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> I do not understand why anyone in 21st century not using celsius?????


Because we live in the US and understand things in Fahrenheit


----------



## ruffhi

... and we don't like things that are integrated, logical and connected. Further ... we don't have any time for this new fangled, modern stuff.

1 litre of water at 4°C fits exactly into a 10cm cube and weights exactly 1kilogram (old definition of the kg that was discarded because of changing density of water).


----------



## Splash74

Ok guys i have some questions im building a new rig and have 1 aquaero 6LT that i want to run with a aquaero 6XT in serial and i got 3 aquabus ultra USB power adapters can i get all these parts to jam correctly ?

100% of this. Build will use PWN is the idea running a ASUS R5E edition 10 with PWN support on everything more or less
2 EK D5 serial PWN pumps for 2 loops and i got 2 aquaero highflow meters .
Why do i need this much power you might ask but the entire build will have 4 D5 pumps and 32 Corsair ML120PRO red led fans and 3 140mm fans .

Is there anyway to get an extended cable from aquaero display so you can place the power unit elsewhere in the case?


----------



## Jubijub

Hello everyone,

Here is my build log, for a rig that will proudly feature an AQ6 Pro : http://www.overclock.net/t/1626745/build-log-the-fast-learner-caselabs-sma8-sober-data-science-machine-learning-rig

Comments welcome.

For the AQ part :
- went with the heatsink to be on the safe side with power draw
- I took the HUBBY7 so all components that need so can have also USB connection (2 pumps)
- I plan to use one of the SPLITTY9 as an Aquabus hub for the sensors
- I will use one SPLITTY9 per rad, on which I will plug the fans as a PWM hub. This will allow for easy switch to push/pull if I ever need it, as each hub can host up to 9 fans, which is enough for a 4+4 push/pull.

I finally decided to go with 2 AquaComputer D5 pumps, so I can enjoy the integration with the Aquaero


----------



## Turboska

Hi guys,i know this has probably been answered time ago,but really reading all those pages could make me crazy...i need some tt riing for my build, connecting the fans to AE6 whould work with the pwm signal? i m gonna buy the first riing rgb model, those with the "manual" controller, as i heard the sotware controlled ones does not work very well...


----------



## Revan654

Very quick question: How long does it take for AquaComputer to ship out from their webstore (If everything is in Stock)? I have a bunch of cables and such ordered. it's nothing major.


----------



## Splash74

Ok i phone up Sebastian at aqua computer today and asked him about my ideas and they will make an display extension but max cm 20 in length since it will lose to much signal speed and i will place the first 6LT 15 18 cm on the backplate connect it and a 2 one same distance going to use the 6LTs as signalboosters "my idea actually"
He quoted good idea that will work in broken English









So I'm going to flash 1 6LT for slave mode and the 3 USB ultra power controllers so in total 11 channels with 30w each should be enough.


----------



## Jubijub

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Splash74*
> 
> Ok i phone up Sebastian at aqua computer today and asked him about my ideas and they will make an display extension but max cm 20 in length since it will lose to much signal speed and i will place the first 6LT 15 18 cm on the backplate connect it and a 2 one same distance going to use the 6LTs as signalboosters "my idea actually"
> He quoted good idea that will work in broken English
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I'm going to flash 1 6LT for slave mode and the 3 USB ultra power controllers so in total 11 channels with 30w each should be enough.


Out of curiosity, what would require so many channels / so much power?


----------



## Splash74

Well it is overkill but about 32 Corsair ML120PRO red led fans 4 ML140PRO fans a bunch of RGB stuff and 4 EK D5 PWN pumps and i probably forgot some gear but yep its not going te be used 100%


----------



## Deeptek

I was wondering if anyone has their Aquaero plugged into the USB 3.0 port on their motherboard? If so can you show me which pins you have it connected to? Or maybe you use a USB3.0 to USB2.0 converter plug?


----------



## InfoSeeker

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Deeptek*
> 
> I was wondering if anyone has their Aquaero plugged into the USB 3.0 port on their motherboard? If so can you show me which pins you have it connected to? Or maybe you use a USB3.0 to USB2.0 converter plug?


Couple pages back in this thread...

http://www.overclock.net/t/1474470/ocn-aquaero-owners-club/9520#post_25928622

and...

http://www.overclock.net/t/1474470/ocn-aquaero-owners-club/9520#post_25930404


----------



## miller330i

Hi guys n gals! I have this, I want to connect it to this;



Where in the loop would you put it and how would you connect it?

Thank you all!


----------



## Ashcroft

Its a waste of time putting a water block on the Aq6, especially with only a system that small. It won't even be warm

If you had some sort of monster with dozens of fans and multi pumps being powered by the Aquaero then it might be useful.


----------



## Revan654

^ I have a waterblock for my aq6XT. Only time I will attach it is when allot of fans & aquabus devices. It's just a waste of money & fittings. Your better off using that money on something more useful. Maybe the AQ filter? Plus the fittings & tubing has a habit of getting in the way of the cables you need to run to the device.


----------



## Mega Man

personal preference is never a waste !


----------



## MuxLee

I have two D5 pumps ( Monsoon) can I connect the PWM plugs to the AQ6 PWM 1/2 or connect them to motherboard . I will power them from a Multiswitch device . any advice on what these PWM headers support would be helpful

TIA
Mux


----------



## Anfs

Hi all
I just have a quick questions for all the aquero users on here.
I just replaced my mother board with an ASUS x99 rampage v edition 10 from a msi x99 godlike carbon and my faberwork has gone missing from the aquasuite software so I can't change any of the led colours or actually see it on the left hand side list.
It was all working on the msi mainboard and all I did was remove the usb cable and reattach it to the new one without touching anything else.
Could it be a USB setting in the bios it is attached to a USB 2 header and I tried both that are on the motherboard without any luck.
Thanks all


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MuxLee*
> 
> I have two D5 pumps ( Monsoon) can I connect the PWM plugs to the AQ6 PWM 1/2 or connect them to motherboard . I will power them from a Multiswitch device . any advice on what these PWM headers support would be helpful
> 
> TIA
> Mux


Yes you can connectto as. You may need diva mood. You know the multi switch is not supported and eol?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anfs*
> 
> Hi all
> I just have a quick questions for all the aquero users on here.
> I just replaced my mother board with an ASUS x99 rampage v edition 10 from a msi x99 godlike carbon and my faberwork has gone missing from the aquasuite software so I can't change any of the led colours or actually see it on the left hand side list.
> It was all working on the msi mainboard and all I did was remove the usb cable and reattach it to the new one without touching anything else.
> Could it be a USB setting in the bios it is attached to a USB 2 header and I tried both that are on the motherboard without any luck.
> Thanks all


I would verify orientation


----------



## GTXJackBauer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MuxLee*
> 
> I have two D5 pumps ( Monsoon) can I connect the PWM plugs to the AQ6 PWM 1/2 or connect them to motherboard . I will power them from a Multiswitch device . any advice on what these PWM headers support would be helpful
> 
> TIA
> Mux


Make sure those D5s PWM are compatible first. They need to be PWM intel spec'd or they won't work.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anfs*
> 
> Hi all
> I just have a quick questions for all the aquero users on here.
> I just replaced my mother board with an ASUS x99 rampage v edition 10 from a msi x99 godlike carbon and my faberwork has gone missing from the aquasuite software so I can't change any of the led colours or actually see it on the left hand side list.
> It was all working on the msi mainboard and all I did was remove the usb cable and reattach it to the new one without touching anything else.
> Could it be a USB setting in the bios it is attached to a USB 2 header and I tried both that are on the motherboard without any luck.
> Thanks all


Need to reinstall your software. Actually I would recommend on doing a complete reformat if you're jumping from one board to anther to make sure there are no conflicting drivers.


----------



## Anfs

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GTXJackBauer*
> 
> Make sure those D5s PWM are compatible first. They need to be PWM intel spec'd or they won't work.
> Need to reinstall your software. Actually I would recommend on doing a complete reformat if you're jumping from one board to anther to make sure there are no conflicting drivers.


Yes thanks for all the suggestions I should of explained myself properly on my first post.
I did do a complete reinstall of windows and all software aswell as making sure of the orientation of the USB cables.
I may just have to recheck all the wiring as I have USB and aquabus cables installed as it was from the beginning on the old board.
That is why I think it is a bios USB issue.
Thanks again


----------



## Barefooter

I have three questions:

1. Can the Bluetooth Farbwerk operate as a stand alone unit without using the Aquasuite software, just hooked up on the bench with an Aquaero? I just want to test some lighting out.

2. Anyone using the Bluetooth Android app to control the Farbwerk? Maybe I could use that for controlling it on the bench.

3. I will have four components connected via the Aquabus. Using an Aquaero XT with an Aquaero LT as a slave, is the Aquabus high port on the slave Aquaero LT available to use?

Thanks in advance!


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Barefooter*
> 
> I have three questions:
> 
> 1. Can the Bluetooth Farbwerk operate as a stand alone unit without using the Aquasuite software, just hooked up on the bench with an Aquaero? I just want to test some lighting out.
> 
> 2. Anyone using the Bluetooth Android app to control the Farbwerk? Maybe I could use that for controlling it on the bench.
> 
> 3. I will have four components connected via the Aquabus. Using an Aquaero XT with an Aquaero LT as a slave, is the Aquabus high port on the slave Aquaero LT available to use?
> 
> Thanks in advance!


1. I believe so, However you will not have access to the latest firmware. I saw someone do it a long time ago.

2. I don't have an Android, I don't know. Can't help you with this question.

3. Yes, (Atlease that's what I was told). I know AQ disabled the low Channel years ago.


----------



## Mega Man

You will need to use that port to make it a slave. That is you needed to connect the aquabus high to the master aquabus high


----------



## ozzy1925

Hello, my friend is having a problem with his 6xt.He told me he clicked somewher e and everything gone from the device.He says never saved or used any aquasuite on his pc ,and telling me he lost fan1,fan2,fan3,fan4 from device screen.I tried to check his aquasuite but we cant click anywhere:
http://i.hizliresim.com/LyDXgz.jpg

What should he do?


----------



## Shoggy

The version that you use is completely outdated while the version on the device is much newer for sure. In other words it is incompatible.

Download the latest aquasuite version.


----------



## ozzy1925

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> The version that you use is completely outdated while the version on the device is much newer for sure. In other words it is incompatible.
> 
> Download the latest aquasuite version.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> The version that you use is completely outdated while the version on the device is much newer for sure. In other words it is incompatible.
> 
> Download the latest aquasuite version.


i did download latest version from the aquasuite web site but we get an error after click install win7x64 i got the 2016_4 aquasuite i try to update firmware from 2003 to latest i get en error

edit: i manage to download 2017 aquasuite license is activated but when i try to upgrade firmware from 2003 it looks its finished but when i check it still shows firmware 2003

edit 2: we manage to update to firmware 2009 after 7-8 tries now everything seems ok but display logo bug


----------



## Shoggy

The memory of the device is messed up. I assume you have a problem with the USB connection.

I would put the device into the revovery mode and flash it completely new from the ground (maybe with another PC if available):

1.) Turn off the PC and remove all connections with exception of power and USB.

2.) Place four jumpers on the temperature sensor connectors 5 to 8.

3.) Power on the system and after a short moment you should see a recovery mode screen in the aquaero display and the device should also beep 1x long followed by 3x short.

4.) Turn the PC off and remove the jumpers from the aquaero.

5.) Start the PC (aquaero will beep 3x short) and use the latest aquasuite software to flash the firmware onto the aquaero.

6.) Turn off the PC, connect all sensors etc. again and start the PC.


----------



## Shoggy

*General information for Windows 10 Creators Update and possible aquasuite crash*

Some of you will run into this problem for sure and we already did the dirty work







If your aquasuite can not be started or even installed after the Windows 10 Creators Update, it is very likely because you use Riva Tuner oder MSI Afterburner which includes Riva Tuner. As long as these tools do not run there is no problem. But as soon as you start them, the aquasuite will crash or not work anymore. Riva Tuner is a x32 application while aquasuite works as x64 and Windows itself already prevents x32 applications to mess around with x64 stuff. It seems that with the Creators update something in this direction has been changed, extended or whatever and is causing the crash.

We were able to track down the problem to its root with a test setup that uses Windows 10 64 Bit with Creators Update (Build 15063) and RivaTuner Statistic Server 6.6.0 or the current 6.7.0 Beta 1 with the profile set to Low/Medium/High. With this combination every 64 Bit .NET WPF application crashes. This happens when a .NET application as been compiled with the flag "prefer 32 bit" set to disabled. The default value for this flag is enabled so you will not see problem with most other .NET applications. Using 32 bit or no GPU acceleration is no solution because data-intense stuff like the charts or logging would see a clear performance drop.

We have done a small hello world demo app to verify this problem with different compiler settings:

WPF 64 Bit application (Default Renderer, uses GPU acceleration) = Crash
WPF 64 Bit application (Software Renderer, no GPU acceleration) = works
WPF 32 Bit application = works (since Riva Tuner is also x32)
Windows Forms 64 Bit application (no GPU acceleration) = works
Windows Forms 32 Bit application (no GPU acceleration) = works

For those who want to give it a try. We provide a ZIP archive with the source code of the demo app and the compiled EXE files for download in our forum. (RivatunerBug.zip)
Please make sure to set the detection level in Riva Tuner to high. The demo app does not render much stuff so lower settings will not trigger the demo app.

In the end the the problem is how Riva Tuner as x32 application tries to hook into the x64 aquasuite. We can not tell if it is Riva Tuner that does something wrong here or if it is Microsoft that must have changed something with the .NET Direct-X interface lately. What we know for sure: we can not fix it; it must be done by Riva Tuner oder Microsoft.

*The current workaround is to put the aquasuite to the exception list of Riva Tuner so it will not trigger the aquasuite anymore.*

Those who have the problem that the Aqua Computer service does not start automatically anymore: just reinstall the aquasuite (keep old data) so that the service will be reinstalled too and the problem is gone.


----------



## SpringY1989

Recently purchased an Aquaero 6 XT and this is the first time I've used a fan controller, so I would like to add 2 temp sensors to each pump top but which one would work with the 6 XT? Also I'm using modmytoys 3-Pin Distributer PCB 5x 3pin to run my 4 Noisebocker PL-2s to the fan header on the Aquaero, but do I need a PWM cable even though I'm using 3pin fans to control them fully with the Aquaero? Some insight would be awesome, thanks.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SpringY1989*
> 
> Recently purchased an Aquaero 6 XT and this is the first time I've used a fan controller,


congrats ! welcome to the family
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SpringY1989*
> 
> so I would like to add 2 temp sensors to each pump top but which one would work with the 6 XT?


bit lost, you mean water temps ? or air temps?

if air, then generally every 2 pin ( DuPont 2.54mm) will work ( iirc 10k ohm)
( the aquaero comes with 4
if water then EVERY 2 pin ( again dupont 2.54mm ) will that i have seen
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SpringY1989*
> 
> Also I'm using modmytoys 3-Pin Distributer PCB 5x 3pin to run my 4 Noisebocker PL-2s to the fan header on the Aquaero, but do I need a PWM cable even though I'm using 3pin fans to control them fully with the Aquaero? Some insight would be awesome, thanks.


no. the 4th pin when using pwm sends out a 5v/3.3v pwm signal.

when using 3 fans you are using voltage control.
voltage control uses the 12vdc line and the ground to send less then 12vdc to the ground - the last wire just sends a rpm signal

that said most of the pcbs i have seen ( when i ask the manufacture ) have around a 5a max limit, please make sure you are not going over that . you should be fine, but never know

hope this helps


----------



## SpringY1989

Thanks for the reply and sorry I did mean water temp sensors


----------



## iamjanco

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> *General information for Windows 10 Creators Update and possible aquasuite crash*
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Some of you will run into this problem for sure and we already did the dirty work
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If your aquasuite can not be started or even installed after the Windows 10 Creators Update, it is very likely because you use Riva Tuner oder MSI Afterburner which includes Riva Tuner. As long as these tools do not run there is no problem. But as soon as you start them, the aquasuite will crash or not work anymore. Riva Tuner is a x32 application while aquasuite works as x64 and Windows itself already prevents x32 applications to mess around with x64 stuff. It seems that with the Creators update something in this direction has been changed, extended or whatever and is causing the crash.
> 
> We were able to track down the problem to its root with a test setup that uses Windows 10 64 Bit with Creators Update (Build 15063) and RivaTuner Statistic Server 6.6.0 or the current 6.7.0 Beta 1 with the profile set to Low/Medium/High. With this combination every 64 Bit .NET WPF application crashes. This happens when a .NET application as been compiled with the flag "prefer 32 bit" set to disabled. The default value for this flag is enabled so you will not see problem with most other .NET applications. Using 32 bit or no GPU acceleration is no solution because data-intense stuff like the charts or logging would see a clear performance drop.
> 
> We have done a small hello world demo app to verify this problem with different compiler settings:
> 
> WPF 64 Bit application (Default Renderer, uses GPU acceleration) = Crash
> WPF 64 Bit application (Software Renderer, no GPU acceleration) = works
> WPF 32 Bit application = works (since Riva Tuner is also x32)
> Windows Forms 64 Bit application (no GPU acceleration) = works
> Windows Forms 32 Bit application (no GPU acceleration) = works
> 
> For those who want to give it a try. We provide a ZIP archive with the source code of the demo app and the compiled EXE files for download in our forum. (RivatunerBug.zip)
> Please make sure to set the detection level in Riva Tuner to high. The demo app does not render much stuff so lower settings will not trigger the demo app.
> 
> In the end the the problem is how Riva Tuner as x32 application tries to hook into the x64 aquasuite. We can not tell if it is Riva Tuner that does something wrong here or if it is Microsoft that must have changed something with the .NET Direct-X interface lately. What we know for sure: we can not fix it; it must be done by Riva Tuner oder Microsoft.
> 
> *The current workaround is to put the aquasuite to the exception list of Riva Tuner so it will not trigger the aquasuite anymore.*
> 
> Those who have the problem that the Aqua Computer service does not start automatically anymore: just reinstall the aquasuite (keep old data) so that the service will be reinstalled too and the problem is gone.


Thanks for that heads up, Shoggy. Putting together a new Win 10/64 bit Pro installation using MSI cards now. This info may just come in handy.


----------



## SpringY1989

I have a PWM MCP655 pump but the cable is to short to reach the Aquaero in the Caselabs THW10, what extension cable can I use?


----------



## GTXJackBauer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SpringY1989*
> 
> I have a PWM MCP655 pump but the cable is to short to reach the Aquaero in the Caselabs THW10, what extension cable can I use?


A PWM extension cable should do the trick.


----------



## SpringY1989

I've chosen this one?


----------



## ruffhi

That is fine too.


----------



## GTXJackBauer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SpringY1989*
> 
> I've chosen this one?


----------



## ruffhi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *g0barry*
> 
> I wanted to report a bug I noticed with the aquasuite software. If you create a virtual temperature sensor of temperature difference type with the global settings set to Fahrenheit, the value it calculates is way off. I recreated the same thing after setting the global setting back to Celsius , and it calculates it accurately.Thanks


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> This is known since years and can not be fixed due the internal structure of the device that works with Celsius. The problem with Fahrenheit is that you can not simply convert such values back and forth while doing any calculations with them.


This explanation makes no sense to me. They are just numbers and subtracting one from the other shouldn't be hard.

Unless (and I am guessing here) ... the aquao system stores all temps as C and does a temp conversion for display purposes (ie oh ... Mr Man wants the temps in F ... then show C / 100 * 180 + 32 then ...).

Now ... if that conversion happens right at the end ... the very last step ... then I can understand this system not liking to show deltas in F.

Consider temp 1 = 10°C ... this would be shown as 50°F
Consider temp 2 = 20°C ... this would be shown as 68°F

Now ... if we take the delta of Temp 1 and 2 ... the internal number is 10 ... but the display conversion would make that 50. WRONG. The delta should be 18°F. The calculation is off by 32. 32! That looks awfully familiar.

What do do?

Easy ... trick the system. The delta takes care of the +32 (they cancel out) so you can get the display code to ignore the 32. Unfortunately, I don't have access to the code so I have to bake the 32 in there so that the display code can remove it.

Now the delta code should be .. (Temp2 - 32 * 100/180) - Temp1

With numbers ...
= (20 - 32*100/180) - 10
= (20 - 17.7778) - 10
= 2.2222 - 10
= -7.7778

And when you plug that internal number into the display conversion routine ... -7.7778 / 100 * 180 + 32 = 18

All of this is based on a guess ... so if the guess is wrong ... this is all wrong. I haven't got my aquaero plugged in at the moment to test it. Can someone else try?


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SpringY1989*
> 
> I have a PWM MCP655 pump but the cable is to short to reach the Aquaero in the Caselabs THW10, what extension cable can I use?


You can solder it to create a longer cable or pick up any PWM fan extensions cable.

or if you have to supplies you can create your own extensions cable.

I created my own to reach my 6XT.


----------



## SpringY1989

I need one last question, as I stated before I'm using modmytoys PCB's with 4 fans connected but could I also add a DarkSide LED strip as well, will the fan conncter on the Aquaero be able to power this without burning out, thanks.


----------



## Mega Man

you would need to calculate the amp draw of the leds yourself


----------



## SpringY1989

The LED strip at maximum brightness is 12v and the Aquaero fan conncters current is 2.5 A per output voltage, resulting in a maximum power of 30 W at 12v, how do I go about calculating this isn't my strongest point.


----------



## GTXJackBauer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SpringY1989*
> 
> The LED strip at maximum brightness is 12v and the Aquaero fan conncters current is 2.5 A per output voltage, resulting in a maximum power of 30 W at 12v, how do I go about calculating this isn't my strongest point.


Check the specs of the LED first and the fans if needed. Even contact the seller and or mfger if you're having trouble finding that kind of info. Add those two up and that should tell you how much room you have to play with.


----------



## ChiTownButcher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SpringY1989*
> 
> The LED strip at maximum brightness is 12v and the Aquaero fan conncters current is 2.5 A per output voltage, resulting in a maximum power of 30 W at 12v, how do I go about calculating this isn't my strongest point.


At 12V 1amp is 12watt or in another way [email protected]=1amp. You should be able to find out how many watt or .???amp the led strip is and convert everything from there to the same value.


----------



## iamjanco

Previous responses to SpringY1989's question pretty much provided the needed answer, but he might like to try digesting Calculating Electrical Power. It's written for laypeople, and a summary/simplification follows:

Power = Current x Voltage, or _P = IE_

where _I_ represents the amount of current passing through a circuit, and;

_E_ represents the voltage applied to that circuit.

The result of the equation, _P_, is typically expressed in watts and/or fractions of watts (using decimal notation); hence:

30 W at 12v, or 30 = some current x 12, then solve for some current to get the maximum current (2.5 amps) you should apply to that circuit.

You may also wish to take note of what's commonly called inrush or startup current, as it applies to leds, especially if you're going to be wiring them in parallel (vs. series). Though not as long in duration as the startup current for inductive devices like motors, similar principles apply. Check with Shoggy and/or search this thread, as there's some pretty good info throughout it, and my understanding is that the aquaero provides limited protections for this purpose.

Excerpted from the content found at that last link:

_The maximum current per channel is 2,5A (30W at 12V) without any special cooling. The aquaero 6 does not even have a passive heatsink! Anyway, we will also offer a waterblock for the aquaero 6 since it will allow to go a bit further with a maximum of 3A (36W at 12V). Of course the voltage regulators also handle short peaks above this rating to make sure that fans and pumps will spin up. The new controllers also feature some new directly integrated security features. For example they can switch of a channel in less than 1/100000s if you have a short circuit. Also the temperature, current and voltage monitoring has been improved._


----------



## Revan654

Quick Question: What Aquacomputer MPS Pressure Sensor should I get. I'm a little confused with the three versions.

Pumps: 2x D5 pumps
Rads: 560 x2 & 420 x2
Waterblocks: 4x EK, Aquacomputer & Heatkiller.


----------



## Jubijub

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> Quick Question: What Aquacomputer MPS Pressure Sensor should I get. I'm a little confused with the three versions.
> 
> Pumps: 2x D5 pumps
> Rads: 560 x2 & 420 x2
> Waterblocks: 4x EK, Aquacomputer & Heatkiller.


Check my build, I have the ref to Aquacomputer shop


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GTXJackBauer*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *SpringY1989*
> 
> The LED strip at maximum brightness is 12v and the Aquaero fan conncters current is 2.5 A per output voltage, resulting in a maximum power of 30 W at 12v, how do I go about calculating this isn't my strongest point.
> 
> 
> 
> Check the specs of the LED first and the fans if needed. Even contact the seller and or mfger if you're having trouble finding that kind of info. Add those two up and that should tell you how much room you have to play with.
Click to expand...

usually the manufacture specs are in w or a per foot and or meter for led strips
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> Quick Question: What Aquacomputer MPS Pressure Sensor should I get. I'm a little confused with the three versions.
> 
> Pumps: 2x D5 pumps
> Rads: 560 x2 & 420 x2
> Waterblocks: 4x EK, Aquacomputer & Heatkiller.


you want the small one ( iirc it is the 40 ) shoggy has a great post as to why. but i probably wont bve able to find it.

but they are kinda useless due to thread size ( iirc m5 ) which is hard to find in the us. really want to use them but they A.C. need to make these a standard size of g1/4


----------



## zeroibis

Also keep in mind that in order to use the pressure sensor you can not have your loop sealed.

You are required to have something like this installed: http://www.performance-pcs.com/aquacomputer-pressure-equalization-membrane-g1-4-high-version.html#Details

I always wondered how many people run pressure sealed loops vs pressure equalized loops. I have been running pressure sealed loops for years (over 7) with the same equipment without pump failure ect but you do need to equalize the loop before removing QDs or they will break.


----------



## iamjanco

You may also wish to keep the following in mind regarding mps flowmeters with no moving parts (source: Shoggy's post on page 69):

_The mps flow XXX work with a differential pressure measurement and have no moving parts. The disadvantage is that out of the box they can be pretty inaccurate. The used fittings and tubing size has a massive effect on the measurement so for reliable values you would have to do your own calibration. That would require a bucket, a stop watch and some time or another flow sensor where you know that it shows a correct value from the beginning._


----------



## NeeqOne

Hi All, so my Aquacomputer D5 Pump with USB and Aquabus Interface runs at full speed when it is neither connected via USB or aquabus. Once I hook a usb or aquabus cable, the pump comes to stop and does not run. Is the controller bad or faulty? Thanks.


----------



## SpringY1989

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iamjanco*
> 
> Previous responses to SpringY1989's question pretty much provided the needed answer, but he might like to try digesting Calculating Electrical Power. It's written for laypeople, and a summary/simplification follows:
> 
> Power = Current x Voltage, or _P = IE_
> 
> where _I_ represents the amount of current passing through a circuit, and;
> 
> _E_ represents the voltage applied to that circuit.
> 
> The result of the equation, _P_, is typically expressed in watts and/or fractions of watts (using decimal notation); hence:
> 
> 30 W at 12v, or 30 = some current x 12, then solve for some current to get the maximum current (2.5 amps) you should apply to that circuit.
> 
> You may also wish to take note of what's commonly called inrush or startup current, as it applies to leds, especially if you're going to be wiring them in parallel (vs. series). Though not as long in duration as the startup current for inductive devices like motors, similar principles apply. Check with Shoggy and/or search this thread, as there's some pretty good info throughout it, and my understanding is that the aquaero provides limited protections for this purpose.
> 
> Excerpted from the content found at that last link:
> 
> _The maximum current per channel is 2,5A (30W at 12V) without any special cooling. The aquaero 6 does not even have a passive heatsink! Anyway, we will also offer a waterblock for the aquaero 6 since it will allow to go a bit further with a maximum of 3A (36W at 12V). Of course the voltage regulators also handle short peaks above this rating to make sure that fans and pumps will spin up. The new controllers also feature some new directly integrated security features. For example they can switch of a channel in less than 1/100000s if you have a short circuit. Also the temperature, current and voltage monitoring has been improved._


I've found the specifications for my fans ×4 and the LED strip.

LED strip

Operating voltage: ~6v-12v (min-to-max brightness)
Power consumption: 2.5W

Per fan

Rated Voltage: 12 V
Operating Voltage: 4-13.8 V
Start voltage: 4.5 Volt
Input power (watt): 1.92 Watt
Input current (A): 0.16A (Max)

So let's say that's a max wattage of 10.5, 10.5 is 35% of 30W available on the Aquaero header so should be fine, right?


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> usually the manufacture specs are in w or a per foot and or meter for led strips
> you want the small one ( iirc it is the 40 ) shoggy has a great post as to why. but i probably wont bve able to find it.
> 
> but they are kinda useless due to thread size ( iirc m5 ) which is hard to find in the us. really want to use them but they A.C. need to make these a standard size of g1/4


Thanks, I thought the 40 is the one I should buy.


----------



## iamjanco

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SpringY1989*
> 
> I've found the specifications for my fans ×4 and the LED strip.
> 
> LED strip
> 
> Operating voltage: ~6v-12v (min-to-max brightness)
> Power consumption: 2.5W
> 
> Per fan
> 
> Rated Voltage: 12 V
> Operating Voltage: 4-13.8 V
> Start voltage: 4.5 Volt
> Input power (watt): 1.92 Watt
> Input current (A): 0.16A (Max)
> 
> So let's say that's a max wattage of 10.5, 10.5 is 35% of 30W available on the Aquaero header so should be fine, right?


I'd say yes to both as long as you don't start ganging things together in parallel to try to squeeze more fans/led strips in per header.


----------



## iamjanco

Quick question regarding the pwm fan issue and the Aquaero 6: I was digging around on the eVGA and Aquacomputer boards and noted that a claim had been made that AC addressed the issue in newer versions of the 6. That text follows, and can be found about halfway down the linked page just under an image of Darlene's adapter, on the evga support forum:

_Tl,dr.: Darlene's Diva 'Dapter works great. If you have a PWM controller (Newer Aquaero 6 units have this taken care of apparently) and have Corsair's PWM fans, chances are it won't work as expected. This will help._

Is this true? Been researching what to do about my ~25 or so Silent Wings 3 pwm fans and just need to know if I need to order diodes (resistors I've got in copious amounts/values)


----------



## InfoSeeker

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> but they are kinda useless due to thread size ( iirc m5 ) which is hard to find in the us. really want to use them but they A.C. need to make these a standard size of g1/4


aquacomputer sells the following 3 items which allow one to easily connect an MPS pressure sensor to a G1/4 loop:
M5 thread to 6 mm hose
6 mm OD hose
6 mm hose to G1/4 thread

Similar items can be found at MSC in the US:
M5 thread to 6 mm hose
6 mm OD hose
6 mm hose to G1/4 thread

I also used a swivel 90 at the sensor for tube routing reasons.


----------



## Shoggy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iamjanco*
> 
> Quick question regarding the pwm fan issue and the Aquaero 6: I was digging around on the eVGA and Aquacomputer boards and noted that a claim had been made that AC addressed the issue in newer versions of the 6. That text follows, and can be found about halfway down the linked page just under an image of Darlene's adapter, on the evga support forum:
> 
> _Tl,dr.: Darlene's Diva 'Dapter works great. If you have a PWM controller (Newer Aquaero 6 units have this taken care of apparently) and have Corsair's PWM fans, chances are it won't work as expected. This will help._
> 
> Is this true? Been researching what to do about my ~25 or so Silent Wings 3 pwm fans and just need to know if I need to order diodes (resistors I've got in copious amounts/values)


From a technical point of view these are two different stories. Darlene's adapter should work for you because an external pull-up will solve the problem that the Silent Wings 3 PWM fans have a pretty low charging current. I wrote a bit more here a while ago.


----------



## iamjanco

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> From a technical point of view these are two different stories. Darlene's adapter should work for you because an external pull-up will solve the problem that the Silent Wings 3 PWM fans have a pretty low charging current. I wrote a bit more here a while ago.


Thanks, Shoggy! I suspected that, but had to ask just in case.

I'd like to use individual Splitty9s on my three rads (3x or 6x, one or two on each of the three) to control their fans and that's where I suppose it would be best to add Darlene's pullup circuits (one on each of the Splitty9's input connectors). Do you think it would be a good idea to adjust resistor values using an oscope to compensate for the difference in load between using Darlene's pullup with pumps vs fans? Or is the difference negligible enough to skip that?

Corrected: BeQuiet specs their 1000rpm pwm fans at 0.06a, with a max rating of 0.3a.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zeroibis*
> 
> Also keep in mind that in order to use the pressure sensor you can not have your loop sealed.
> 
> You are required to have something like this installed: http://www.performance-pcs.com/aquacomputer-pressure-equalization-membrane-g1-4-high-version.html#Details
> 
> I always wondered how many people run pressure sealed loops vs pressure equalized loops. I have been running pressure sealed loops for years (over 7) with the same equipment without pump failure ect but you do need to equalize the loop before removing QDs or they will break.


not completely true.

you can also connect both ports to your loop and then you dont need a membrane in your loop ( pressure differential - when both ports are hooked up it will work OR if one port is open and loop equalizes pressure. the trick is you can not use the second way ( open loop ) to check for pressure differential but instead that would be for a res fill level. to check pressure differential you would need to hook it up with one port connected before the item you want to check and the other after )

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NeeqOne*
> 
> Hi All, so my Aquacomputer D5 Pump with USB and Aquabus Interface runs at full speed when it is neither connected via USB or aquabus. Once I hook a usb or aquabus cable, the pump comes to stop and does not run. Is the controller bad or faulty? Thanks.


this is like saying " my car does not start what is wrong" without more info we can not tell you. are all wires hooked up properly, do you have a multimeter? does the pump get seen in aquasuite ? does your pc recognize the usb connection ? have you at ANY point connected your wiring incorrectly when power was going through it ( including 5v standby ) ... and more
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SpringY1989*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *iamjanco*
> 
> Previous responses to SpringY1989's question pretty much provided the needed answer, but he might like to try digesting Calculating Electrical Power. It's written for laypeople, and a summary/simplification follows:
> 
> Power = Current x Voltage, or _P = IE_
> 
> where _I_ represents the amount of current passing through a circuit, and;
> 
> _E_ represents the voltage applied to that circuit.
> 
> The result of the equation, _P_, is typically expressed in watts and/or fractions of watts (using decimal notation); hence:
> 
> 30 W at 12v, or 30 = some current x 12, then solve for some current to get the maximum current (2.5 amps) you should apply to that circuit.
> 
> You may also wish to take note of what's commonly called inrush or startup current, as it applies to leds, especially if you're going to be wiring them in parallel (vs. series). Though not as long in duration as the startup current for inductive devices like motors, similar principles apply. Check with Shoggy and/or search this thread, as there's some pretty good info throughout it, and my understanding is that the aquaero provides limited protections for this purpose.
> 
> Excerpted from the content found at that last link:
> 
> _The maximum current per channel is 2,5A (30W at 12V) without any special cooling. The aquaero 6 does not even have a passive heatsink! Anyway, we will also offer a waterblock for the aquaero 6 since it will allow to go a bit further with a maximum of 3A (36W at 12V). Of course the voltage regulators also handle short peaks above this rating to make sure that fans and pumps will spin up. The new controllers also feature some new directly integrated security features. For example they can switch of a channel in less than 1/100000s if you have a short circuit. Also the temperature, current and voltage monitoring has been improved._
> 
> 
> 
> I've found the specifications for my fans ×4 and the LED strip.
> 
> LED strip
> 
> Operating voltage: ~6v-12v (min-to-max brightness)
> Power consumption: 2.5W
> 
> Per fan
> 
> Rated Voltage: 12 V
> Operating Voltage: 4-13.8 V
> Start voltage: 4.5 Volt
> Input power (watt): 1.92 Watt
> Input current (A): 0.16A (Max)
> 
> So let's say that's a max wattage of 10.5, 10.5 is 35% of 30W available on the Aquaero header so should be fine, right?
Click to expand...

looks fine i load my channels up to near 100%


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iamjanco*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> From a technical point of view these are two different stories. Darlene's adapter should work for you because an external pull-up will solve the problem that the Silent Wings 3 PWM fans have a pretty low charging current. I wrote a bit more here a while ago.
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks, Shoggy! I suspected that, but had to ask just in case.
> 
> I'd like to use individual Splitty9s on my three rads (3x or 6x, one or two on each of the three) to control their fans and that's where I suppose it would be best to add Darlene's pullup circuits (one on each of the Splitty9's input connectors). *Do you think it would be a good idea to adjust resistor values using an oscope* to compensate for the difference in load between using Darlene's pullup with pumps vs fans? Or is the difference negligible enough to skip that?
> 
> Corrected: BeQuiet specs their 1000rpm pwm fans at 0.06a, with a max rating of 0.3a.
Click to expand...

If you have the scope and electronics savvy, it might be interesting to see if there's much difference between values from 1K to 4.7K . . .

But I'd stay with either a 2.2K or 3.3K for the pullup value, and it should be just fine.

Darlene


----------



## iamjanco

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> If you have the scope and electronics savvy, it might be interesting to see if there's much difference between values from 1K to 4.7K . . .
> 
> But I'd stay with either a 2.2K or 3.3K for the pullup value, and it should be just fine.
> 
> Darlene


Thanks for the confirmation, Darlene







A buddy has a 465 he told me I could borrow if I needed it, and just might do so to satisfy my own curiosity, once I get to that point in my build.

What sort of steps are you looking for as far as (1K to 4.7K) values go?


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iamjanco*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> If you have the scope and electronics savvy, it might be interesting to see if there's much difference between values from 1K to 4.7K . . .
> 
> But I'd stay with either a 2.2K or 3.3K for the pullup value, and it should be just fine.
> 
> Darlene
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for the confirmation, Darlene
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A buddy has a 465 he told me I could borrow if I needed it, and just might do so to satisfy my own curiosity, once I get to that point in my build.
> 
> What sort of steps are you looking for as far as (1K to 4.7K) values go?
Click to expand...

Just the standard values would show you all you might want to know . . . 1K, 1.5K, 2.2K, 2.7K, 3.3K, 4.7K


----------



## lever2stacks

I didn't know where to post this and I didn't want to start a new thread on it. I'm having a problem since i updated windows 10 tonight aqua suite is running but i have no icon in the system tray and I can't open the app to check anything or adjust my curves. I have no idea how to fix it.,Any help would be highly appreciated thanks.


----------



## lovan6

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lever2stacks*
> 
> I didn't know where to post this and I didn't want to start a new thread on it. I'm having a problem since i updated windows 10 tonight aqua suite is running but i have no icon in the system tray and I can't open the app to check anything or adjust my curves. I have no idea how to fix it.,Any help would be highly appreciated thanks.


http://www.overclock.net/t/1474470/ocn-aquaero-owners-club/9580


----------



## lever2stacks

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lovan6*
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1474470/ocn-aquaero-owners-club/9580


Thank you so much!!!


----------



## nycgtr

Got a quick question for aquaero owners. I am looking to get the Aquacomputer aquaero 6 LT USB Fan-Controller to control my 7 fans according to water temp. I have a rog board so currently, I can even do this thru aisuite however, I feel the control to be not as finite as I would like. For the people that have used both is it worth the hassle? Also how important is it to get the heatsink for this thing and can I double side tape it somewhere? I have limited space in my mid tower.

Oh how much a different is there between the 5 and 6 for my application? Thanks


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nycgtr*
> 
> Got a quick question for aquaero owners. I am looking to get the Aquacomputer aquaero 6 LT USB Fan-Controller to control my 7 fans according to water temp. I have a rog board so currently, I can even do this thru aisuite however, I feel the control to be not as finite as I would like. For the people that have used both is it worth the hassle? Also how important is it to get the heatsink for this thing and can I double side tape it somewhere? I have limited space in my mid tower.
> 
> Oh how much a different is there between the 5 and 6 for my application? Thanks


get the 6. no you dont need heatsink for the 6. and yes you could just mount it somewhere how is up to you and to make sure you dont short anything


----------



## Dasandmancometh

Can someone that really knows the aquaero and doesn't mind answering a bunch of newbie questions please PM me? I'm debating on getting into the aquaero game for a update to a recent build but there's so much info out there I'm like on overload. Would be greatly appreciated.


----------



## spyui

Hi everyone, Have anyone try to use Bitspower flow meter on Aquaero 6 before ? does it work ?


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dasandmancometh*
> 
> Can someone that really knows the aquaero and doesn't mind answering a bunch of newbie questions please PM me? I'm debating on getting into the aquaero game for a update to a recent build but there's so much info out there I'm like on overload. Would be greatly appreciated.


Ask here it may help others


----------



## apw63

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dasandmancometh*
> 
> Can someone that really knows the aquaero and doesn't mind answering a bunch of newbie questions please PM me? I'm debating on getting into the aquaero game for a update to a recent build but there's so much info out there I'm like on overload. Would be greatly appreciated.


When I first started with my aquaero 6 this helped a lot My Aquaero 5 Review & Guide & BASIC HOW TO SET UP GUIDE

Even though this guide is out dated it is still relevant.


----------



## Dasandmancometh

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> Ask here it may help others


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *apw63*
> 
> When I first started with my aquaero 6 this helped a lot My Aquaero 5 Review & Guide & BASIC HOW TO SET UP GUIDE
> 
> Even though this guide is out dated it is still relevant.


Thanks for the guide. I'm fairly familiar with the aquaero's as I've been looking into them for some time. What my main question is: Will it work the way I want it to in my build. I know it's way more capable than I'll probably even use.

So my current build has two water cooling loops. I'm looking to get the Aquaero 6 pro and two D5 w/USB and Aquabus interface. I would like to break it out in the s/w so each loops fans on the rads are controlled by the s/w fan curve based off the loops temp sensor reading.

So my questions are:

1. Confirm the Aqua 6 can handle 2 of the Aquacomputer D5's with the Aquabus interface?
2. Can the Aqua 6 can control RPM of the D5's via the Aquabus interface?
3. Can I set a fan curve for my radiators on a loop based off the temp sensor?
4. Will my current flow meters work with the Aqua 6? Koolance INS-FM14: https://koolance.com/coolant-flow-meter-ins-fm14
- I have the ADT-FM03 adapters as well if those would be needed. But I'm fairly sure I have read somewhere that these would work without the adapters. https://koolance.com/adt-fm03-flow-meter-frequency-adapter

This is the basic's that I want to do with it, I know it can do alot more and that will come in time. But for now this is what I need to get straight in order to move forward.

Thanks in advance for sharing your knowledge.


----------



## Mega Man

i miss nam :/ his guide is what go tme to buy the aq at first :/
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dasandmancometh*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> Ask here it may help others
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *apw63*
> 
> When I first started with my aquaero 6 this helped a lot My Aquaero 5 Review & Guide & BASIC HOW TO SET UP GUIDE
> 
> Even though this guide is out dated it is still relevant.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Thanks for the guide. I'm fairly familiar with the aquaero's as I've been looking into them for some time. What my main question is: Will it work the way I want it to in my build. I know it's way more capable than I'll probably even use.
> 
> So my current build has two water cooling loops. I'm looking to get the Aquaero 6 pro and two D5 w/USB and Aquabus interface. I would like to break it out in the s/w so each loops fans on the rads are controlled by the s/w fan curve based off the loops temp sensor reading.
> 
> So my questions are:
> 
> 1. Confirm the Aqua 6 can handle 2 of the Aquacomputer D5's with the Aquabus interface?
> 2. Can the Aqua 6 can control RPM of the D5's via the Aquabus interface?
> 3. Can I set a fan curve for my radiators on a loop based off the temp sensor?
> 4. Will my current flow meters work with the Aqua 6? Koolance INS-FM14: https://koolance.com/coolant-flow-meter-ins-fm14
> - I have the ADT-FM03 adapters as well if those would be needed. But I'm fairly sure I have read somewhere that these would work without the adapters. https://koolance.com/adt-fm03-flow-meter-frequency-adapter
> 
> This is the basic's that I want to do with it, I know it can do alot more and that will come in time. But for now this is what I need to get straight in order to move forward.
> 
> Thanks in advance for sharing your knowledge.
Click to expand...

1 yes, iirc they are mps devices ( so you can control a total of 4 mps devices )
2 yes, they are a vario with the knob "adjusted" by the aquabus
3 yes both a software and/or a hardware sensor --- software sensors would require a 3rd party program to be running 9 i reccomend adia or hwinfo i hate hwmonitor . ) that said it is better to use a water temp sensor AND a air temp sensor - and make a water to air delta !!!! much much much quieter- and yes this can do that \
4 - best suited @IT Diva but i am 98% yes, she does it with a different adapter though i think she uses either this


----------



## Dasandmancometh

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> i miss nam :/ his guide is what go tme to buy the aq at first :/
> 1 yes, iirc they are mps devices ( so you can control a total of 4 mps devices )
> 2 yes, they are a vario with the knob "adjusted" by the aquabus
> 3 yes both a software and/or a hardware sensor --- software sensors would require a 3rd party program to be running 9 i reccomend adia or hwinfo i hate hwmonitor . ) that said it is better to use a water temp sensor AND a air temp sensor - and make a water to air delta !!!! much much much quieter- and yes this can do that \
> 4 - best suited @IT Diva but i am 98% yes, she does it with a different adapter though i think she uses either this


Cool beans, thanks for the info.

This is the D5 pump, doesn't say it's vario, but I assumed with all that it can do that it would be. Please correct me if I'm worng. http://www.aquacomputer.com/d5-mit-usb-und-aquabus.html

I will be using water temp sensors but did not think about an air temp sensor. Any recommendations on one or does it really matter?

That flow meter adapter is basically the same thing so that'll work out great.

I'll probably be back on here in a few months asking some more questions once I get everything installed again.


----------



## docsys

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dasandmancometh*
> 
> Cool beans, thanks for the info.
> 
> This is the D5 pump, doesn't say it's vario, but I assumed with all that it can do that it would be. Please correct me if I'm worng. http://www.aquacomputer.com/d5-mit-usb-und-aquabus.html
> 
> I will be using water temp sensors but did not think about an air temp sensor. Any recommendations on one or does it really matter?
> 
> That flow meter adapter is basically the same thing so that'll work out great.
> 
> I'll probably be back on here in a few months asking some more questions once I get everything installed again.


The pump is the correct one.

For the airtemp you can simply use one of the Sensors that come shipped with the aquaero and route it through your case to the outside of it to a position where it isn't influenced be airflow out of the case and you are fine.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> i miss nam :/ his guide is what go tme to buy the aq at first :/
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Dasandmancometh*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> Ask here it may help others
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *apw63*
> 
> When I first started with my aquaero 6 this helped a lot My Aquaero 5 Review & Guide & BASIC HOW TO SET UP GUIDE
> 
> Even though this guide is out dated it is still relevant.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Thanks for the guide. I'm fairly familiar with the aquaero's as I've been looking into them for some time. What my main question is: Will it work the way I want it to in my build. I know it's way more capable than I'll probably even use.
> 
> So my current build has two water cooling loops. I'm looking to get the Aquaero 6 pro and two D5 w/USB and Aquabus interface. I would like to break it out in the s/w so each loops fans on the rads are controlled by the s/w fan curve based off the loops temp sensor reading.
> 
> So my questions are:
> 
> 1. Confirm the Aqua 6 can handle 2 of the Aquacomputer D5's with the Aquabus interface?
> 2. Can the Aqua 6 can control RPM of the D5's via the Aquabus interface?
> 3. Can I set a fan curve for my radiators on a loop based off the temp sensor?
> 4. Will my current flow meters work with the Aqua 6? Koolance INS-FM14: https://koolance.com/coolant-flow-meter-ins-fm14
> - I have the ADT-FM03 adapters as well if those would be needed. But I'm fairly sure I have read somewhere that these would work without the adapters. https://koolance.com/adt-fm03-flow-meter-frequency-adapter
> 
> This is the basic's that I want to do with it, I know it can do alot more and that will come in time. But for now this is what I need to get straight in order to move forward.
> 
> Thanks in advance for sharing your knowledge.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> 1 yes, iirc they are mps devices ( so you can control a total of 4 mps devices )
> 2 yes, they are a vario with the knob "adjusted" by the aquabus
> 3 yes both a software and/or a hardware sensor --- software sensors would require a 3rd party program to be running 9 i reccomend adia or hwinfo i hate hwmonitor . ) that said it is better to use a water temp sensor AND a air temp sensor - and make a water to air delta !!!! much much much quieter- and yes this can do that \
> 4 - best suited @IT Diva but i am 98% yes, she does it with a different adapter though i think she uses either this
Click to expand...

Mega Man pretty much nailed it for you.

With a dual loop setup, using the Aquabus to control/monitor the pumps leaves all 4 fan channels open for fans and misc. Pumps are really a "set and forget" once you have the system bled, so you can use simple preset value controllers

If you group your fans onto 1 channel for each loop, that would leave a channel for each loop available for the Koolance flow meter.

Whether you use the frequency adapter model with, or the model without the integral display, they both have the same output format that can plug up to a fan channel and reads like fan rpm, except that what you see is actually calibrated as milliliters per minute


----------



## Dasandmancometh

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *docsys*
> 
> The pump is the correct one.
> 
> For the airtemp you can simply use one of the Sensors that come shipped with the aquaero and route it through your case to the outside of it to a position where it isn't influenced be airflow out of the case and you are fine.


Copy that, that's what I had in mind after reading your post.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Mega Man pretty much nailed it for you.
> 
> With a dual loop setup, using the Aquabus to control/monitor the pumps leaves all 4 fan channels open for fans and misc. Pumps are really a "set and forget" once you have the system bled, so you can use simple preset value controllers
> 
> If you group your fans onto 1 channel for each loop, that would leave a channel for each loop available for the Koolance flow meter.
> 
> Whether you use the frequency adapter model with, or the model without the integral display, they both have the same output format that can plug up to a fan channel and reads like fan rpm, except that what you see is actually calibrated as milliliters per minute


That is exactly what I planned to do, I have four fans for each rad and was going to put them on a PWM splitter and then run the splitter into the Aqua 6.

Now does the Agua 6 have the ability in the software to that I can tell it this fan signal is really a flow sensor and have it spit me out a LPH reading or something along those lines? Not a deal breaker if it doesn't, but would be nice.


----------



## Mega Man

No it does not, but you can rename the header


----------



## GTXJackBauer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dasandmancometh*
> 
> Copy that, that's what I had in mind after reading your post.
> That is exactly what I planned to do, I have four fans for each rad and was going to put them on a PWM splitter and then run the splitter into the Aqua 6.
> 
> Now does the Agua 6 have the ability in the software to that I can tell it this fan signal is really a flow sensor and have it spit me out a LPH reading or something along those lines? Not a deal breaker if it doesn't, but would be nice.


Nope. It' going to show as RPM and you'll just going to take that number and convert it yourself as Diva explained. I also had a Koolance flow meter but since I wanted it integrated into the AQ eco-system, I ended up grabbing one of these to give me the correct readings via software and hardware display.

As for PWM splitters, AC also sells the SPLITTY9 for PWM or Aquabus expansions and HUBBY7 for USB expansion. So have a look at those since they'll be great help for complex and dual loops like yours.


----------



## Dasandmancometh

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GTXJackBauer*
> 
> Nope. It' going to show as RPM and you'll just going to take that number and convert it yourself as Diva explained. I also had a Koolance flow meter but since I wanted it integrated into the AQ eco-system, I ended up grabbing one of these to give me the correct readings via software and hardware display.
> 
> As for PWM splitters, AC also sells the SPLITTY9 for PWM or Aquabus expansions and HUBBY7 for USB expansion. So have a look at those since they'll be great help for complex and dual loops like yours.


So the AQ flow meter will display as a flow meter whereas my Koolance ones only show as fan RPM. Correct?

Now with 8 fans total on my rads, I would need two of the splitty9's in order split them 4 and 4 on each loops fan curve or could on splitty9 control groups of fans with my two different fan curve's? And the splitty9 nine still takes up a fan header on the AQ6 correct? Just trying to figure out the benefits of the splitty9 over a regular PWM splitter?


----------



## GTXJackBauer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dasandmancometh*
> 
> So the AQ flow meter will display as a flow meter whereas my Koolance ones only show as fan RPM. Correct?


That is correct.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dasandmancometh*
> 
> Now with 8 fans total on my rads, I would need two of the splitty9's in order split them 4 and 4 on each loops fan curve or could on splitty9 control groups of fans with my two different fan curve's? And the splitty9 nine still takes up a fan header on the AQ6 correct? Just trying to figure out the benefits of the splitty9 over a regular PWM splitter?


No, you can't split a SPLITTY9 into two. It works as one so you'll need two SPLITTY9s to create two fan curves for two loops via Aquasuite software. Each SPLITTY9 connects to the AQ6 header for control and power, just don't forget to set the channels to PWM and make sure you're within the channels limits which is 2.5A/30w which I don't think you should have a problem unless those are very powerful fans.


----------



## Dasandmancometh

That's what I figured. Seems the splitty9 would be useful if I had more auqabus devices to add to it. But since I don't any PWM splitter should work.


----------



## c3LaL35

Hi how to control with 3 pin fans aquero 6 xt


----------



## tomsonx1983

U can connect koolance flow meter to aquaero flow header after a plug mod, at least i got mine connected like that and configure impulses in aquasuite and its show as flow in lph, mine is INS-FM17N meter


----------



## tomsonx1983

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *c3LaL35*
> 
> Hi how to control with 3 pin fans aquero 6 xt


change settings in fans advanced tab to power controled


----------



## Dasandmancometh

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tomsonx1983*
> 
> U can connect koolance flow meter to aquaero flow header after a plug mod, at least i got mine connected like that and configure impulses in aquasuite and its show as flow in lph, mine is INS-FM17N meter


You got a how to or write up on how to do this?


----------



## c3LaL35

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tomsonx1983*
> 
> change settings in fans advanced tab to power controled


Exactly how do you tell me my details


----------



## tomsonx1983

one of cables needs to be connected to gnd pin and other to rpm header of flow header to aquaero, than u need to calculate pulses depending on inner diameter of tubing what u use

i used a 3pin fan plug, u just neet to extract pins from flow meter plug and press them in to fan plug ant hey will clip in

than convert impuses according to flow meter chart


----------



## tomsonx1983

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *c3LaL35*
> 
> Exactly how do you tell me my details


In Aquasite fan settings
U got advanced tab for each fan header
speed control power option and pwm option


----------



## Jubijub

Hello everyone,

I worked a bit on the wiring for my new rig, which you can take a look at here :
https://docs.google.com/drawings/d/1dyzr4_8MmA-KUQk38MWM8JjDoSa97teL4iVne-VrzIs/pub?w=1506&h=2259

Can you tell me if I missed something obvious in the way I plan to wire my AQ6 and the surrounding accessories ?



Here are the component I took for the build (full build in my build log in my sig)

*Cooling - Monitoring & control*

*Fan controler* : AquaComputer Aquaero 6 Pro
- includes 4x temp sensors
*Fan controler accessories* : AquaComputer Heatsink for Aquaero 6
*Fan splitter* : AquaComputer SPLITTY9
*Flow sensor* : AquaComputer Flow sensor High with Aquabus
*Water temperature sensor* : 2x AquaComputer Water temperature sensor internal/external with Aquabus
*Internal USB Hub* : AquaComputer HUBBY9
*Air Testing kit* : AquaComputer Dr Drop Pressure tester with pump


----------



## docsys

Quote:


> [*] *Water temperature sensor* : 2x AquaComputer Water temperature sensor internal/external with Aquabus


ehm... did I miss something? I see no Aquabus connection. Anyways i don't see the point why there should be. It's a simple 2pin connector for a temp probe going into the Aquaero.


----------



## nyck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jubijub*
> 
> Hello everyone,
> 
> I worked a bit on the wiring for my new rig, which you can take a look at here :
> https://docs.google.com/drawings/d/1dyzr4_8MmA-KUQk38MWM8JjDoSa97teL4iVne-VrzIs/pub?w=1506&h=2259
> 
> Can you tell me if I missed something obvious in the way I plan to wire my AQ6 and the surrounding accessories ?
> 
> 
> 
> Here are the component I took for the build (full build in my build log in my sig)
> 
> *Cooling - Monitoring & control*
> 
> *Fan controler* : AquaComputer Aquaero 6 Pro
> - includes 4x temp sensors
> *Fan controler accessories* : AquaComputer Heatsink for Aquaero 6
> *Fan splitter* : AquaComputer SPLITTY9
> *Flow sensor* : AquaComputer Flow sensor High with Aquabus
> *Water temperature sensor* : 2x AquaComputer Water temperature sensor internal/external with Aquabus
> *Internal USB Hub* : AquaComputer HUBBY9
> *Air Testing kit* : AquaComputer Dr Drop Pressure tester with pump


sorry for my english, the only error that i can see is the flow sensor connected to psu and if is an aquabus version you must it to aquabus port on aq 6 or to the spitty 9


----------



## tomsonx1983

d5 pump dont need to be connected to aquabus and usb at once


----------



## Mega Man

Better question, why not connect both


----------



## Jubijub

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *docsys*
> 
> ehm... did I miss something? I see no Aquabus connection. Anyways i don't see the point why there should be. It's a simple 2pin connector for a temp probe going into the Aquaero.


You are right, my description is wrong.
On the schematic they are connected to the sensor port

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nyck*
> 
> sorry for my english, the only error that i can see is the flow sensor connected to psu and if is an aquabus version you must it to aquabus port on aq 6 or to the spitty 9


The flow sensor apparently requires a cable (that I forgot to buy







)that has 3 ports : Aquabus in and out, and a molex connector, which is why I represented it like that. The sensor only has an Aquabus port (a specific one they say) as the device expects to be powered by it.
Do you confirm my understanding?

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tomsonx1983*
> 
> d5 pump dont need to be connected to aquabus and usb at once


I wasn't sure here, the product description kinda hint you can do both, I am not sure what are the limitations if you do one or the other. I seem to understand (but can be wrong) that the Aquabus provides the RPM info but maybe USB can too


----------



## Mega Man

Fyi as long as you verify wiring you can use (iirc) minifit Jr pins


----------



## nyck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jubijub*
> 
> You are right, my description is wrong.
> On the schematic they are connected to the sensor port
> The flow sensor apparently requires a cable (that I forgot to buy
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )that has 3 ports : Aquabus in and out, and a molex connector, which is why I represented it like that. The sensor only has an Aquabus port (a specific one they say) as the device expects to be powered by it.
> Do you confirm my understanding?
> I wasn't sure here, the product description kinda hint you can do both, I am not sure what are the limitations if you do one or the other. I seem to understand (but can be wrong) that the Aquabus provides the RPM info but maybe USB can too


i have an aq flow sensor high flow and an aq flow sensor high flow with aquabus, the first must be connect to the flow head on the aquaero and have the power directly from the aquaero , and the second have the power from the usb cable or from the aquabus or simultaneous


----------



## Jubijub

Thanks a lot nyck !

I confirm I have ordered the top one (without USB, with only the 3pin aquabus connector).

So plugging it to the flow head is correct, what is wrong is that sensor doesn't require external power, so I should remove the molex bit on my schematic.
I probably still need to buy a 3 pin cable as the sensor is supplied with none.


----------



## SpringY1989

I've been reading through this forum very thorough and found a problem I most likely will come across. As I've said many times I'm using 4, 3 pin fans on a modmytoys 5 way 3pin splitter. The problem is the aquaero RPM read out gets bugged if its getting more than 1 RPM signal as in my case 4 from each fan, so if I remove the tacho wire from 3 fans and leave one fan with all 3 wires the controller will only receive 1 RPM signal correct? so in theory the controller thinks I only have 1 fan connected the other 3 are just powered with the negative and positive wires.

The 3 wires are black, red and white so I'm assuming the black wire is negative the red wire is positive and the white wire is the tacho wire?
I'm using 3 pin extensions that came with the noise-blocker PL2s and I'm using these extensions on all the fans due to the size of the case, so If I remove the tacho wire from the extension side that connects to the modmytoys PCB I'll be golden?


----------



## MrStrat007

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SpringY1989*
> 
> I've been reading through this forum very thorough and found a problem I most likely will come across. As I've said many times I'm using 4, 3 pin fans on a modmytoys 5 way 3pin splitter. The problem is the aquaero RPM read out gets bugged if its getting more than 1 RPM signal as in my case 4 from each fan, so if I remove the tacho wire from 3 fans and leave one fan with all 3 wires the controller will only receive 1 RPM signal correct? so in theory the controller thinks I only have 1 fan connected the other 3 are just powered with the negative and positive wires.
> 
> The 3 wires are black, red and white so I'm assuming the black wire is negative the red wire is positive and the white wire is the tacho wire?
> I'm using 3 pin extensions that came with the noise-blocker PL2s and I'm using these extensions on all the fans due to the size of the case, so If I remove the tacho wire from the extension side that connects to the modmytoys PCB I'll be golden?


You could do that, or just find the tacho trace on the PCB of the splitter and just scratch out the trace after the first fan. There's a post earlier in this thread (can't find on mobile atm) detailing which trace. Might be easier and would save you having to do this with other fans in the future if you re-use the splitter.


----------



## GTXJackBauer

Either do all of that or just grab a SPLITTY9 and call it a day.


----------



## nyk20z3

I am ordering a Aquaero 6 XT, Farbwerk and a few rgb connectors. Are there any other must have accessories before I finalize the order?


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jubijub*
> 
> Thanks a lot nyck !
> 
> I confirm I have ordered the top one (without USB, with only the 3pin aquabus connector).
> 
> So plugging it to the flow head is correct, what is wrong is that sensor doesn't require external power, so I should remove the molex bit on my schematic.
> I probably still need to buy a 3 pin cable as the sensor is supplied with none.


You need a special cable for this from aq


----------



## Jubijub

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> You need a special cable for this from aq


Can you point which cable? From the answer above my understanding was that a simple PWM cable would be enough to power the flow sensor and that the pwm+molex cable was not needed


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jubijub*
> 
> Can you point which cable? From the answer above my understanding was that a simple PWM cable would be enough to power the flow sensor and that the pwm+molex cable was not needed


Check aquacomputer site. They tell what cable you need for this and it is 3-pin not 4-pim pmw


----------



## wa3pnt

Here's a link to the Aquatuning page. You can get the part number there, and then check for other vendors such as PPC.

http://www.aquatuning.us/water-cooling/monitoring/flow-indicator/2763/aquacomputer-durchflusssensorkabel-3-polig

RodeoGeorge


----------



## Jubijub

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> Check aquacomputer site. They tell what cable you need for this and it is 3-pin not 4-pim pmw


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wa3pnt*
> 
> Here's a link to the Aquatuning page. You can get the part number there, and then check for other vendors such as PPC.
> 
> http://www.aquatuning.us/water-cooling/monitoring/flow-indicator/2763/aquacomputer-durchflusssensorkabel-3-polig
> 
> RodeoGeorge


Thanks guys!


----------



## DirtyBear

Hi guys
there is a question don't know is there anyone could help or answer

If an Aqua product failure and destroy one of your PC component and will aqua give you a compensation ???


----------



## Mega Man

Probably not, but then most companies don't, but then nor do *i* expect them to.

As thay said @Shoggy would be the only one who could say for sure


----------



## DirtyBear

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> Probably not, but then most companies don't, but then nor do *i* expect them to.
> 
> As thay said @Shoggy would be the only one who could say for sure


Well at least I know Corsair they do , If their water-cooling system leak and damage your PC component
They will fully paid anything thats damage cause of that


----------



## Mega Man

Although i don't have to to cite specific examples that is not true. recently ( it may have changed again going back to 100% coverage) they started to do some form of prorating of your system and iirc they have a cap as too max out of pocket...


----------



## tomsonx1983

Some of companys doing it, eg corsair if psu fried rest of ur rig
but u must send all ur parts to corsair for investigation
i think same as corsair aio but no one cover damage in case of custom loop


----------



## DirtyBear

well there is a leak at the CPU block and when I found out it was too late and damage my 1080ti FE


----------



## nycgtr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DirtyBear*
> 
> well there is a leak at the CPU block and when I found out it was too late and damage my 1080ti FE


That sucks. I was gonna buy that block too


----------



## Deeptek

what block is that?


----------



## nycgtr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Deeptek*
> 
> what block is that?


It's their vision line. That looks to be the acetate top, but looks more to the pvd version. Hard to tell from the photo.


----------



## Jflisk

Anyone Update to windows 10 1703 update and cannot open Aquasuite . That's where I am at right about now, any help is greatly appreciated. Thank you in advance .


----------



## Leonko

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jflisk*
> 
> Anyone Update to windows 10 1703 update and cannot open Aquasuite . That's where I am at right about now, any help is greatly appreciated. Thank you in advance .


you have to add it to exceptions to Riva Tuner Statictics Server


----------



## Jflisk

Yep killed Riva statistical server all together for now. Thanks


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DirtyBear*
> 
> well there is a leak at the CPU block and when I found out it was too late and damage my 1080ti FE


that sucks, sorry :/

that said now that we have the real question

@Shoggy

what does your warranty cover, does it cover additional parts.


----------



## nyck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DirtyBear*
> 
> well there is a leak at the CPU block and when I found out it was too late and damage my 1080ti FE


the leak is localized in the screw of the vario system or between the bottom and top of wb ?
i have in order one of this waterblock with vario in the aquacomputer shop and i have fear that It can happen to me.


----------



## nyck

after some changes I always i test my loop , but the worst thing is if the loss occurs after many days that I mount everything.


----------



## DirtyBear

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nyck*
> 
> after some changes I always i test my loop , but the worst thing is if the loss occurs after many days that I mount everything.


Thats happen few days later after I test my loop








This really piss me off


----------



## nyck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DirtyBear*
> 
> Thats happen few days later after I test my loop
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This really piss me off


it leak from the screw of vario regulation ?
the amount of liquid seems really so much, not just a few drops .


----------



## DirtyBear

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nyck*
> 
> it leak from the screw of vario regulation ?
> the amount of liquid seems really so much, not just a few drops .


The leak from the screw and came out quite fast


----------



## madmeatballs

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DirtyBear*
> 
> The leak from the screw and came out quite fast


Damn, you waited so long for that block and that happens...

This is the block with silver right?


----------



## DirtyBear

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nyck*
> 
> it leak from the screw of vario regulation ?
> the amount of liquid seems really so much, not just a few drops .


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *madmeatballs*
> 
> Damn, you waited so long for that block and that happens...
> 
> This is the block with silver right?


Yes thats the block with silver and I was waited for 3 months


----------



## madmeatballs

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DirtyBear*
> 
> Yes thats the block with silver and I was waited for 3 months


Well, damn that really feels bad . You waited that long and it takes the 1080 Ti with it. I can't imagine what I would feel if that happened to me. As far as I know they test those blocks before sending them in though. A video of how they make GPU blocks on youtube showed a testing phase. Still, that expensive of a block should at least have guarantees.
Quote:


> VARIO: Adjustable geometry
> The geometry of the base part of cuplex kryos NEXT VARIO variants can be adjusted using four adjusting screws on the sides of the water block. Each CPU is unique - even slightest variations in height or shape of the metallic lids on top of current CPUs affect cooling performance of a water block considerably. Prior concepts to adjust the geometry of water blocks always required the water block to be disassembled and then reinstalled onto the motherboard, requiring significant time and effort. With the cuplex kryos NEXT VARIO, the geometry is perfectly adjusted in just a few moments. While monitoring core temperatures at maximum CPU load, simply change the geometry using the four adjusting screws. Temperature changes provide an immediate feedback, the perfect setting is quickly identified.


From product page

Well it says the "Vario" is supposed to be adjusted while the system is running on the fly so I think the Vario failed you. Really curious though, did you adjust the Vario?


----------



## nyck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DirtyBear*
> 
> The leak from the screw and came out quite fast


i see your from pictures that you buy one of the best waterblock with pvd top and silver bottom.

I think it would be fair if they pay you because theoretically it lose by a point that we can not remove, and for the quantity of water there must be a serious mistake as an o-ring completely cut off or something, but this is only my opinion


----------



## DirtyBear

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *madmeatballs*
> 
> Well, damn that really feels bad . You waited that long and it takes the 1080 Ti with it. I can't imagine what I would feel if that happened to me. As far as I know they test those blocks before sending them in though. A video of how they make GPU blocks on youtube showed a testing phase. Still, that expensive of a block should at least have guarantees.
> From product page
> 
> Well it says the "Vario" is supposed to be adjusted while the system is running on the fly so I think the Vario failed you. Really curious though, did you adjust the Vario?


I haven't got a chance to play with it and thats happened


----------



## nyck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DirtyBear*
> 
> I haven't got a chance to play with it and thats happened


yes we can see the arrow in the default position.


----------



## DirtyBear

And this was before the leak 
Now I am not sure to cancel the order from Aquacoumputer or not , coz I ordered the 2 x1080ti block from them
After the leak one of my 1080ti FE damaged and still waiting for Aqua to reply


----------



## madmeatballs

Actually, I have block and active backplate on the way right now. I'll probably test it out of my computer to see if there are leaks before installing it, to be extra sure it won't do what happened with your CPU block. Are your blocks shipped already? Mine is at IPZ-Ffm, Germany as per DHL. It has been there for a couple of days no updates yet. I'll give it a week until I ask my local post if my package is already here.


----------



## DirtyBear

Is it still Hoilday in Germany ???
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *madmeatballs*
> 
> Actually, I have block and active backplate on the way right now. I'll probably test it out of my computer to see if there are leaks before installing it, to be extra sure it won't do what happened with your CPU block. Are your blocks shipped already? Mine is at IPZ-Ffm, Germany as per DHL. It has been there for a couple of days no updates yet. I'll give it a week until I ask my local post if my package is already here.


Those Blocks still not ship yet
And is it still Holiday in Germany ?? Coz non of them gives me a reply


----------



## madmeatballs

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DirtyBear*
> 
> Is it still Hoilday in Germany ???
> Those Blocks still not ship yet
> And is it still Holiday in Germany ?? Coz non of them gives me a reply


Dunno, mine has been shipped already, I got the GPU Block, Active Backplate and the 1 slot bracket. Well, easter monday was a holiday for them. So we might expect a reply soon or probably tomorrow for us.(I am at GMT +8)


----------



## DirtyBear

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *madmeatballs*
> 
> Dunno, mine has been shipped already, I got the GPU Block, Active Backplate and the 1 slot bracket. Well, easter monday was a holiday for them. So we might expect a reply soon or probably tomorrow for us.(I am at GMT +8)


Thx for the info


----------



## DirtyBear

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *madmeatballs*
> 
> Dunno, mine has been shipped already, I got the GPU Block, Active Backplate and the 1 slot bracket. Well, easter monday was a holiday for them. So we might expect a reply soon or probably tomorrow for us.(I am at GMT +8)


Well Aqua already reply to me and they will cover everything , the card the block and even the shipping cost
But on the other hand luckily I use the aqualis XT 880 and it can tells you there was a leak (when it happens I was not in the room ) otherwise
not just damaged one card maybe both card and the mother board


----------



## madmeatballs

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DirtyBear*
> 
> Well Aqua already reply to me and they will cover everything , the card the block and even the shipping cost
> But on the other hand luckily I use the aqualis XT 880 and it can tells you there was a leak (when it happens I was not in the room ) otherwise
> not just damaged one card maybe both card and the mother board


That is some good news! At least we know when things like these would happen they'll cover it.


----------



## docsys

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DirtyBear*
> 
> Well Aqua already reply to me and they will cover everything , the card the block and even the shipping cost
> But on the other hand luckily I use the aqualis XT 880 and it can tells you there was a leak (when it happens I was not in the room ) otherwise
> not just damaged one card maybe both card and the mother board


Wow! I'm very impressed about THAT coverage of guarantee! Anyways... I experienced Aquacomputer as a VERY professional behaving and customer caring company.








One just should recognice @Shoggy's efforts in this thread so far


----------



## Mega Man

first i would assume a case by case basis. rather then it will be covered.

second i am glad they got you taken care of, that is pretty awesome !


----------



## DirtyBear

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *docsys*
> 
> Wow! I'm very impressed about THAT coverage of guarantee! Anyways... I experienced Aquacomputer as a VERY professional behaving and customer caring company.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> One just should recognice @Shoggy's efforts in this thread so far


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> first i would assume a case by case basis. rather then it will be covered.
> 
> second i am glad they got you taken care of, that is pretty awesome !


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *docsys*
> 
> Wow! I'm very impressed about THAT coverage of guarantee! Anyways... I experienced Aquacomputer as a VERY professional behaving and customer caring company.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> One just should recognice @Shoggy's efforts in this thread so far


Yes ! Aqua did a very good job and I will keep using their product


----------



## NE0XY

This might be a dumb question but is it possible to have RGB fans such as the Corsair HD140/HD120 RGB fans connected to the aquaero in some way to still be able to use my Aquaero fan profiles etc and still be able to control the RGB?

Thanks

Edit: http://www.corsair.com/en-eu/hd140-rgb-led-high-performance-140mm-pwm-fan-twin-pack-with-controller


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NE0XY*
> 
> This might be a dumb question but is it possible to have RGB fans such as the Corsair HD140/HD120 RGB fans connected to the aquaero in some way to still be able to use my Aquaero fan profiles etc and still be able to control the RGB?
> 
> Thanks
> 
> Edit: http://www.corsair.com/en-eu/hd140-rgb-led-high-performance-140mm-pwm-fan-twin-pack-with-controller


From what I recall from past discussions about RGB fans with external controlling boxes. The answer would be no.

It might be possible with some custom wiring setup. Not 100% what all the connectors look like & how the signals are handled. It would take a bit of an effort with wiring & maybe some soldering. Truthfully I don't think it's worth all the hassle.


----------



## Dasandmancometh

For the aquacomputer D5 pump with the USB and aquabus, is there any benefits to using the USB if you have the aquabus connected to the aquaero?


----------



## Master Chicken

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NE0XY*
> 
> This might be a dumb question but is it possible to have RGB fans such as the Corsair HD140/HD120 RGB fans connected to the aquaero in some way to still be able to use my Aquaero fan profiles etc and still be able to control the RGB?
> 
> Thanks
> 
> Edit: http://www.corsair.com/en-eu/hd140-rgb-led-high-performance-140mm-pwm-fan-twin-pack-with-controller


I can't tell from any of the pictures anywhere that I can find whether the fan has two separate connectors ... one to drive the fan and one to drive the LED functions or whether it's all integrated into one connector. Obviously, integrated together is a buzz kill.

If they are separate and the LED function doesn't draw it's power from the fan connector, then I would think that the fan could be driven from the Aquaero and the LED's from their separate control box.

If the LED system DOES draw it's power from the FAN connector, you would probably have to make sure to run the fans in PWM mode with 12V power to the fan at all times.


----------



## iamjanco

It's been a few decades, but I spent
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Master Chicken*
> 
> I can't tell from any of the pictures anywhere that I can find whether the fan has two separate connectors ... one to drive the fan and one to drive the LED functions or whether it's all integrated into one connector. Obviously, integrated together is a buzz kill.
> 
> If they are separate and the LED function doesn't draw it's power from the fan connector, then I would think that the fan could be driven from the Aquaero and the LED's from their separate control box.
> 
> If the LED system DOES draw it's power from the FAN connector, you would probably have to make sure to run the fans in PWM mode with 12V power to the fan at all times.


If you click on "Downloads" on the originally referenced link, you'll find another link to the user guide for the fans.


----------



## Master Chicken

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iamjanco*
> 
> It's been a few decades, but I spent
> If you click on "Downloads" on the originally referenced link, you'll find another link to the user guide for the fans.


Yeah, I saw it. I didn't read through but was looking for a diagram. No dice.

So I read through the thing and came to this point ...

> Plug the fan power cable into an unused fan port on your MB or fan controller.
• The fan power cable provides power and PWM control for the fan.
• The RGB LED cable provides power and control for the RGB LED's.

So the fan control and power are separate (and on a normal PWM connector) from the LED power and control connector. You should then be able to control the fan itself via the Aquaero. The LED control will obviously be left to their device.


----------



## Ashcroft

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MuxLee*
> 
> I have two D5 pumps ( Monsoon) can I connect the PWM plugs to the AQ6 PWM 1/2 or connect them to motherboard . I will power them from a Multiswitch device . any advice on what these PWM headers support would be helpful
> 
> TIA
> Mux


This is a late reply but you seemed to get some possibly inaccurate info.

The PWM 1/2 headers on the AQ6, the two pin ones, are power outputs and not compatible with PWM devices like PWM pumps or fans.

They are PWM modulated 12V power outputs mainly useful for controlling LED lighting.

PWM pumps and fans, 4 pin, use a 5V modulated PWM signal on the 4th pin to control their speed.

Both systems are PWM but of completely different types.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ashcroft*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *MuxLee*
> 
> I have two D5 pumps ( Monsoon) can I connect the PWM plugs to the AQ6 PWM 1/2 or connect them to motherboard . I will power them from a Multiswitch device . any advice on what these PWM headers support would be helpful
> 
> TIA
> Mux
> 
> 
> 
> This is a late reply but you seemed to get some possibly inaccurate info.
> 
> The PWM 1/2 headers on the AQ6, the two pin ones, are power outputs and not compatible with PWM devices like PWM pumps or fans.
> 
> They are PWM modulated 12V power outputs mainly useful for controlling LED lighting.
> 
> PWM pumps and fans, 4 pin, use a 5V modulated PWM signal on the 4th pin to control their speed.
> 
> Both systems are PWM but of completely different types.
Click to expand...

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *MuxLee*
> 
> I have two D5 pumps ( Monsoon) can I connect the PWM plugs to the AQ6 PWM 1/2 or connect them to motherboard . I will power them from a Multiswitch device . any advice on what these PWM headers support would be helpful
> 
> TIA
> Mux
> 
> 
> 
> Yes you can connectto as. You may need diva mood. You know the multi switch is not supported and eol?
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Anfs*
> 
> Hi all
> I just have a quick questions for all the aquero users on here.
> I just replaced my mother board with an ASUS x99 rampage v edition 10 from a msi x99 godlike carbon and my faberwork has gone missing from the aquasuite software so I can't change any of the led colours or actually see it on the left hand side list.
> It was all working on the msi mainboard and all I did was remove the usb cable and reattach it to the new one without touching anything else.
> Could it be a USB setting in the bios it is attached to a USB 2 header and I tried both that are on the motherboard without any luck.
> Thanks all
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> I would verify orientation
Click to expand...

very very very good ketch and i am sorry i didnt see that, i thought he ment fan 1 and 2 not PWM port 1 and 2.

DO NOT use that pwm 2 pin for fans !!!!!! ever !


----------



## NE0XY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Master Chicken*
> 
> Yeah, I saw it. I didn't read through but was looking for a diagram. No dice.
> 
> So I read through the thing and came to this point ...
> 
> > Plug the fan power cable into an unused fan port on your MB or fan controller.
> • The fan power cable provides power and PWM control for the fan.
> • The RGB LED cable provides power and control for the RGB LED's.
> 
> So the fan control and power are separate (and on a normal PWM connector) from the LED power and control connector. You should then be able to control the fan itself via the Aquaero. The LED control will obviously be left to their device.


Thanks, that's what I thought too but it's great to get some confirmation, I was worried about that it wouldn't properly show the PWM output like I read can be a issue with some of the controller boxes for various RGB/LED fans


----------



## ttnuagmada

got my Aquaero 6 LT in yesterday. So far this thing is pretty awesome. I have a question though regarding voltage vs PWM fan control:

I have SW3's, which are known to not work well in PWM mode without Diva's mod. However, they seem to be pretty easy to control using voltage. Is this bad for the fans? What benefit does PWM really have over high-granularity voltage control?


----------



## InfoSeeker

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dasandmancometh*
> 
> For the aquacomputer D5 pump with the USB and aquabus, is there any benefits to using the USB if you have the aquabus connected to the aquaero?



the USB connection:
allows you to configure and manually control the pump
if you have more than one MPS device, you will have to specify the aquabus address (12, 13, 14, 15)
a priority for USB or aquabus communication should also be specified on the pump (iirc)
the USB connection may be removed after configuration
the pump configuration may be done prior to installation on a separate computer
the aquabus connection allows the aquaero to read data from the pump and allows you to place a controller on the pump


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ttnuagmada*
> 
> got my Aquaero 6 LT in yesterday. So far this thing is pretty awesome. I have a question though regarding voltage vs PWM fan control:
> 
> I have SW3's, which are known to not work well in PWM mode without Diva's mod. However, they seem to be pretty easy to control using voltage. Is this bad for the fans? What benefit does PWM really have over high-granularity voltage control?


generally yes, it can fry the controller


----------



## ttnuagmada

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> generally yes, it can fry the controller


So i'm endangering my Aquaero by running them with voltage?


----------



## Mega Man

no, in theory your fan, i dont buy it, but that is what i am told, that the controllers dont like it ( voltage control ) -- that said many people do it without issue ....


----------



## Shoggy

Quick info. The aquasuite 2017-2 has been released.

Main changes for the software:

Bugfix: Stability and performance improvements
Bugfix: Data logger
Bugfix: Multimonitor desktop overview when a 3D application is running
Bugfix: Vision (Spotify information)
New: Improved hardware monitor (new chipsets)
New: Configuration for hardware monitor/service
The updates also includes a new VISION firmware (V1006) which improves the touch buttons for the appropriate variants.


----------



## Cozmo85

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> Quick info. The aquasuite 2017-2 has been released.
> 
> Main changes for the software:
> 
> Bugfix: Stability and performance improvements
> Bugfix: Data logger
> Bugfix: Multimonitor desktop overview when a 3D application is running
> Bugfix: Vision (Spotify information)
> New: Improved hardware monitor (new chipsets)
> New: Configuration for hardware monitor/service
> The updates also includes a new VISION firmware (V1006) which improves the touch buttons for the appropriate variants.


What is "use media data for spectrum analyzer and media info"?

Then it has "transmit spectrum analyzer to" and i can choose my aquaero.


----------



## Shoggy

If you enable this function the Aqua Computer Windows service will generate spectrum analyzer data from the audio output of your system. This data can be sent to a specifc device that you have to select. When you choose the aquaero it will be displayed on the USB LCD page as long as no other external data (from LCDHype for example) is pushed to the device.

Please note that this feature was mainly designed for the VISION devices. When used with an aquaero the data transfer might crash after a while.

If you do not use this feature you should disable this option because it constantly causes some CPU load which is also the reason why it can be switched on or off.


----------



## MuxLee

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ashcroft*
> 
> This is a late reply but you seemed to get some possibly inaccurate info.
> 
> The PWM 1/2 headers on the AQ6, the two pin ones, are power outputs and not compatible with PWM devices like PWM pumps or fans.
> 
> They are PWM modulated 12V power outputs mainly useful for controlling LED lighting.
> 
> PWM pumps and fans, 4 pin, use a 5V modulated PWM signal on the 4th pin to control their speed.
> 
> Both systems are PWM but of completely different types.


Thanks for this ... could of been an expensive mistake that. thank fully I have not got round to connecting them up yet. You actually answered my question in relation to the PWM 1/2 headers - they are good for LED's controlling voltage . Anyway I will try and hook up the basic AQ6 today now I have my motherboard back from RMA.
. I will send the pump pwm signals from the cpu and water pump headers on the MB.

I have 4 banks of fans I want to control with the fan headers. are they independent I have 2 banks of PWM and 2 of Voltage controlled , I am assuming this is nt going to be a problem .


----------



## MuxLee

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> very very very good ketch and i am sorry i didnt see that, i thought he ment fan 1 and 2 not PWM port 1 and 2.
> 
> DO NOT use that pwm 2 *pin for fans !!!!!!* ever !


The question / info request was for pumps dude ....... slow down


----------



## Thortinton

Hi,

I'm projecting mounting a aquaero for my new project, this is just what I have in mind for now.

Aquaero

Aquaero 6 PRO
Front plate for aquaero 5 and 6 PRO aluminum black
Passive heat sink for aquaero 6
farbwerk
SPLITTY9

CPU Rig

Aqua Computer D5 pump motor with USB and aquabus interface
Flow sensor high flow USB G1/4
2x Temperature sensor internal/external thread G1/4 for aquaero
Pump adapter for D5 pumps for aqualis base with fill level sensor, G1/4

GPU Rig

Aqua Computer D5 pump motor with USB and aquabus interface
Flow sensor high flow USB G1/4
2x Temperature sensor internal/external thread G1/4 for aquaero
Pump adapter for D5 pumps for aqualis base with fill level sensor, G1/4

Case

3x Temperature sensor

Configuration

Channel 1 > Fans CPU Rig > 3x Noctua NF-A14 Industrial PPC 3000 PWM
Channel 2 > Fans Case > 5x Corsair ML140 PRO PWM
Channel 3 > Fans GPU Rig --> 4x Noctua NF-A14 Industrial PPC 3000 PWM
Aquabus --> Splitter ---> Pump CPU Rig
Aquabus --> Splitter ---> Pump GPU Rig
Aquabus --> Splitter ---> Farbwerk
Aquabus --> Splitter ---> Flow sensor CPU Rig
Aquabus --> Splitter ---> Flow sensor GPU Rig
Aquabus --> Splitter ---> fill level sensor CPU Rig
Aquabus --> Splitter ---> fill level sensor GPU Rig

Of course i have some doubts:

What is the real difference between Pro and XT?? for what I read is the controller but what functionality does it give.

I have seen that the limit of aquaero 6 are 4 mps and I mount 6, it is possible??? or discard the level sensors????

Compatible alternative for water temperature sensors and flow sensor???

Of course if you see more things that would give problems or that can improve do not hesitate to comment them


----------



## Barefooter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Thortinton*
> 
> What is the real difference between Pro and XT?? for what I read is the controller but what functionality does it give.
> 
> I have seen that the limit of aquaero 6 are 4 mps and I mount 6, it is possible??? or discard the level sensors????
> 
> Compatible alternative for water temperature sensors and flow sensor???
> 
> Of course if you see more things that would give problems or that can improve do not hesitate to comment them


The XT has a touch screen and a remote control, otherwise they are basically the same.

4 MPS devices are the max as far as I know. You could use the two pumps and two flow sensors as your four MPS devices, drop the fill level sensors, and then just leave your Farbwerk plugged into a USB port for control.


----------



## Jubijub

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Thortinton*
> 
> Hi,
> 
> I'm projecting mounting a aquaero for my new project, this is just what I have in mind for now.
> 
> Aquaero
> 
> Aquaero 6 PRO
> Front plate for aquaero 5 and 6 PRO aluminum black
> Passive heat sink for aquaero 6
> farbwerk
> SPLITTY9
> 
> CPU Rig
> 
> Aqua Computer D5 pump motor with USB and aquabus interface
> Flow sensor high flow USB G1/4
> 2x Temperature sensor internal/external thread G1/4 for aquaero
> Pump adapter for D5 pumps for aqualis base with fill level sensor, G1/4
> 
> GPU Rig
> 
> Aqua Computer D5 pump motor with USB and aquabus interface
> Flow sensor high flow USB G1/4
> 2x Temperature sensor internal/external thread G1/4 for aquaero
> Pump adapter for D5 pumps for aqualis base with fill level sensor, G1/4
> 
> Case
> 
> 3x Temperature sensor
> 
> Configuration
> 
> Channel 1 > Fans CPU Rig > 3x Noctua NF-A14 Industrial PPC 3000 PWM
> Channel 2 > Fans Case > 5x Corsair ML140 PRO PWM
> Channel 3 > Fans GPU Rig --> 4x Noctua NF-A14 Industrial PPC 3000 PWM
> Aquabus --> Splitter ---> Pump CPU Rig
> Aquabus --> Splitter ---> Pump GPU Rig
> Aquabus --> Splitter ---> Farbwerk
> Aquabus --> Splitter ---> Flow sensor CPU Rig
> Aquabus --> Splitter ---> Flow sensor GPU Rig
> Aquabus --> Splitter ---> fill level sensor CPU Rig
> Aquabus --> Splitter ---> fill level sensor GPU Rig
> 
> Of course i have some doubts:
> 
> What is the real difference between Pro and XT?? for what I read is the controller but what functionality does it give.
> 
> I have seen that the limit of aquaero 6 are 4 mps and I mount 6, it is possible??? or discard the level sensors????
> 
> Compatible alternative for water temperature sensors and flow sensor???
> 
> Of course if you see more things that would give problems or that can improve do not hesitate to comment them


You can look at my build, I made a schematic of the wiring for similar components.

As Barefooter said : you can only have 4 MPS devices, on the Aquabus High socket. This means Aquaero (AQ High) --> Splitty9 (aquabus mode) --> 4 different MPS devices (pumps, fill sensors, etc... are MPS devices). I would also leave the Farbwerk outside.

For the flow sensor you can consider another one, which is : https://shop.aquacomputer.de/product_info.php?products_id=2294&XTCsid=ro2lp3prq9j59i3n5gkja6kmsm4r17h4 doesn't require USB connections nor Aquabus (connects on it own port on the AQ6, and doesn't count as an MPS device I think)

For your channels : how do you plan to split the PWM signal between all the fans ?


----------



## Cozmo85

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> If you enable this function the Aqua Computer Windows service will generate spectrum analyzer data from the audio output of your system. This data can be sent to a specifc device that you have to select. When you choose the aquaero it will be displayed on the USB LCD page as long as no other external data (from LCDHype for example) is pushed to the device.
> 
> Please note that this feature was mainly designed for the VISION devices. When used with an aquaero the data transfer might crash after a while.
> 
> If you do not use this feature you should disable this option because it constantly causes some CPU load which is also the reason why it can be switched on or off.


Thanks. Always wanted to do something with the lcdhype page but it seems the software is kind of abandoned.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MuxLee*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> very very very good ketch and i am sorry i didnt see that, i thought he ment fan 1 and 2 not PWM port 1 and 2.
> 
> DO NOT use that pwm 2 *pin for fans !!!!!!* ever !
> 
> 
> 
> The question / info request was for pumps dude ....... slow down
Click to expand...

fyi pumps are fans, think about it, fan has motor and uses a propeller to move air, pumps have a motor that is used to move water.... also FYI they use the exact same standard to control each other. with voltage or PWM

12vpwm will kill anything attached to the pwm circuit of a fan/ motor ...

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Barefooter*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Thortinton*
> 
> What is the real difference between Pro and XT?? for what I read is the controller but what functionality does it give.
> 
> I have seen that the limit of aquaero 6 are 4 mps and I mount 6, it is possible??? or discard the level sensors????
> 
> Compatible alternative for water temperature sensors and flow sensor???
> 
> Of course if you see more things that would give problems or that can improve do not hesitate to comment them
> 
> 
> 
> The XT has a touch screen and a remote control, otherwise they are basically the same.
> 
> 4 MPS devices are the max as far as I know. You could use the two pumps and two flow sensors as your four MPS devices, drop the fill level sensors, and then just leave your Farbwerk plugged into a USB port for control.
Click to expand...

to expand a bit more also the xp devices also get an extra year of firmware/non needed updates for aquaero

no you can not mount 6 mps, however i dont think the farb counts as mps, iirc they get their own addresses .,.... hope this helps


----------



## Shoggy

As general information. The following aquabus devices can be attached to a single aquaero at the same time:

2x aquastream XT or ULTIMATE
8x poweradjust 2/3
1x aquaero 5/6 LT as slave (in this case only 4x poweradjust 2/3)
4x mps-based devices (D5 USB, flow and pressure/level sensors)
4x devices with VISION module
2x farbwerk
1x real time clock module


----------



## Thortinton

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Barefooter*
> 
> The XT has a touch screen and a remote control, otherwise they are basically the same.
> 
> 4 MPS devices are the max as far as I know. You could use the two pumps and two flow sensors as your four MPS devices, drop the fill level sensors, and then just leave your Farbwerk plugged into a USB port for control.


That being the case, I prefer the PRO.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jubijub*
> 
> You can look at my build, I made a schematic of the wiring for similar components.
> 
> As Barefooter said : you can only have 4 MPS devices, on the Aquabus High socket. This means Aquaero (AQ High) --> Splitty9 (aquabus mode) --> 4 different MPS devices (pumps, fill sensors, etc... are MPS devices). I would also leave the Farbwerk outside.
> 
> For the flow sensor you can consider another one, which is : https://shop.aquacomputer.de/product_info.php?products_id=2294&XTCsid=ro2lp3prq9j59i3n5gkja6kmsm4r17h4 doesn't require USB connections nor Aquabus (connects on it own port on the AQ6, and doesn't count as an MPS device I think)
> 
> For your channels : how do you plan to split the PWM signal between all the fans ?


Then it would look like this:

Channel 1 > Fans CPU Rig > 3x Noctua NF-A14 Industrial PPC 3000 PWM
Channel 2 > Fans Case > 5x Corsair ML140 PRO PWM
Channel 3 > Fans GPU Rig --> 4x Noctua NF-A14 Industrial PPC 3000 PWM
Aquabus --> Splitter ---> Pump CPU Rig
Aquabus --> Splitter ---> Pump GPU Rig
Aquabus --> Splitter ---> fill level sensor CPU Rig
Aquabus --> Splitter ---> fill level sensor GPU Rig

AQ6 flow --> Flow sensor CPU Rig
AQ6 flow --> Flow sensor GPU Rig

USB > Farbwerk

I see in your scheme that there is only one AQ6 Flow

Can i connect the two sensors there? and manage them independently?

I had been told that identical devices, can be grouped in lots with the same address aquabus, although they could not be controlled independently,which for sensors of the same rig could be worth.

My idea is that according to the temperature of each rig, increase the speed of the fans of that rig, and those of the case with the sensors of temperature of the air.


----------



## Jubijub

For the sensor flow I doubt, as it has some special pinning that provides power too


----------



## dracotonisamond

is there any difference between the aquacomputer inline temperature sensor for the vision and the one intended for the aquaero other than the connector?

i want one of the inner outer threaded inline sensors but nobody has any stock.
can i just cut off the vision connector and crimp on the standard two pin connector?


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dracotonisamond*
> 
> is there any difference between the aquacomputer inline temperature sensor for the vision and the one intended for the aquaero other than the connector?
> 
> i want one of the inner outer threaded inline sensors but nobody has any stock.
> can i just cut off the vision connector and crimp on the standard two pin connector?


From what I can tell the only difference is the the connector. The wiring could be a different AWG. You can also buy a extra thermal sensor as well just to be on the say side. Take out the thermal senor for visions from the fitting & replace it with a normal thermal sensor.


----------



## Jokerfish

I have two mcp-655 (d5) pwm pumps (that will likely run in unison on a y-splitter) and am in need of a pwm controller that can also handle 2 sets of 3xpwm fans on pwm headers. Has the D5 pwm compatibility issue mentioned on page 1 of this forum been ironed out? I tend to work directly with the fan controller on the pc and true pwm external controllers are scarce.


----------



## GTXJackBauer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jokerfish*
> 
> I have two mcp-655 (d5) pwm pumps (that will likely run in unison on a y-splitter) and am in need of a pwm controller that can also handle 2 sets of 3xpwm fans on pwm headers. Has the D5 pwm compatibility issue mentioned on page 1 of this forum been ironed out? I tend to work directly with the fan controller on the pc and true pwm external controllers are scarce.


You either need to do the Divamod (search it in this thread) or find EK's G2 or AC's D5 pumps to work with the Aquaero.


----------



## Jokerfish

Even with the pump power coming from molex and just needing a straight 2-pin pwm speed and tach signal coming from the controller? It just seems strange that the fans would work fine but the pump interpret the signal differently (without going through 300 pages of this forum). Not doubting your info, it just seems like a strange thing to overlook. Would an older aquaero model be any different?


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jokerfish*
> 
> Even with the pump power coming from molex and just needing a straight 2-pin pwm speed and tach signal coming from the controller? It just seems strange that the fans would work fine but the pump interpret the signal differently (without going through 300 pages of this forum). Not doubting your info, it just seems like a strange thing to overlook. *Would an older aquaero model be any different*?


Short answer . . .No.

The fact that except for later releases of the PWM D5 by Aquacomputer, EK, and I believe recently by XSPC, the PWM D5 was designed so that it could be shut off completely via software, and would run at 60% without any PWM signal applied, as opposed to PWM fans that run at 100% with no PWM applied, and only slow down to a minimum speed, but don't stop, even at 0%.

You might try running an older PWM D5 from the CPU header of the mobo.

Many mobo's effectively have the Diva mod built into their PWM headers, though you have to see if yours does.


----------



## Mega Man

just to add, this is NOT a aquaero problem, aquaero properly followed intels pwm spec


----------



## Jokerfish

I get that. PC component companies adding tweaks and becoming incompatible is par for the course these days, so I don't blame AQ for following spec. I just feel like they could corner the market for people seeking multiple pwm controls in one unit if they expanded their compatibility because there is virtually no other brand or unit out there that offers that (short of finding multiple silverstone PWM Mate controllers and dealing with that ugliness, or installing multiple zalman or lamptron units with one PWM header each).

I did stumble across one review of the Aquaero 6 where someone claimed they did get PWM control to work with some older Alphacool D5 PWM models by hooking them to a powered PWM hub (I'm assuming it was the silverstone pwm hub model because that was another review they posted shortly after) and hooking that to the A6 Pro. Does this make sense to anyone here? Would that work?


----------



## Mega Man

by "fixing" that problem they could in theory lower the ability to control multiple fans ( basically when you start loading up fans, the aquaero has to ground more current. the end result is the more fans you add on, the less rpm range the fans have. if they were to implement this, it would act as a " fan" thus lowing the amount you can control without issue )

all that said i could be wrong but that is how i understand it

am i correct @IT Diva

that said they have made several changes, for example the corsair fans required a different resistor so they changed that.... 4 pwm channels vs 1.... ect


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jokerfish*
> 
> I get that. PC component companies adding tweaks and becoming incompatible is par for the course these days, so I don't blame AQ for following spec. I just feel like they could corner the market for people seeking multiple pwm controls in one unit if they expanded their compatibility because there is virtually no other brand or unit out there that offers that (short of finding multiple silverstone PWM Mate controllers and dealing with that ugliness, or installing multiple zalman or lamptron units with one PWM header each).
> 
> I did stumble across one review of the Aquaero 6 where someone claimed they did get PWM control to work with some older Alphacool D5 PWM models by hooking them to a powered PWM hub (I'm assuming it was the silverstone pwm hub model because that was another review they posted shortly after) and hooking that to the A6 Pro. Does this make sense to anyone here? Would that work?


Some of the older series 5 Aquaeros sorta worked sometimes, to control older PWM D5's.

The 5 series was of a significantly older and much less efficient design as far as their electronics.

The way it managed PWM did sort of function like having a weak pullup on the PWM line, which would sometimes allow control of a D5, and then again the next day, or hours later, it wouldn't.

I don't know that the older Acool D5 was any different than any other of its time, but the 5 series Aquaero would occasionally control them, though never reliably.

As to powered PWM hubs, most are for fans that get their power from the same 4 pin connector as the PWM and tach.

It's possible that some headers use PWM from the motherboard to control the supply voltage so that you could use 3 pin fans from a PWM header.

Also, with a header where you already have a fan attached, that might be able to "share" the fan's pullup so that a D5 would control via PWM.

There are several possibilities, and without knowing the details, would be impossible to accurately speculate.

D.


----------



## hisXLNC

Its time to try to set up everything and i have the following

2 of the aquatuning d5 USB pumps
2 flow sensors
2 inline temperature sensors
A bunch of these 2 and 3 pin things https://www.highflow.nl/modding/stroomkabels/aqua-computer-aquaero-2-pin-relaisuitgangsconnector.html
4 fan groups
Farbwerk
Aquaero 6

How do i connect this all together?

Do i put the temp sensor into the d5 pump and the flow sensor into the alarm slot on the d5 pump?

Then i use a 4 pin to connect the aquabus port on the pump to the aquaero high and low aquabus ports ( 1 for each pump?)

Do i even need farbwerk to control rgb leds or can i just use the aquaero?

Where / how do i connect it all together?

What do i do with these 2 and 3 pin things?


----------



## Ashcroft

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hisXLNC*
> 
> Its time to try to set up everything and i have the following
> 
> 2 of the aquatuning d5 USB pumps
> 2 flow sensors
> 2 inline temperature sensors
> A bunch of these 2 and 3 pin things https://www.highflow.nl/modding/stroomkabels/aqua-computer-aquaero-2-pin-relaisuitgangsconnector.html
> 4 fan groups
> Farbwerk
> Aquaero 6
> 
> How do i connect this all together?
> 
> Do i put the temp sensor into the d5 pump and the flow sensor into the alarm slot on the d5 pump?
> 
> Then i use a 4 pin to connect the aquabus port on the pump to the aquaero high and low aquabus ports ( 1 for each pump?)
> 
> Do i even need farbwerk to control rgb leds or can i just use the aquaero?
> 
> Where / how do i connect it all together?
> 
> What do i do with these 2 and 3 pin things?


The temp sensor can be connected to any temp input header.
The flow sensor only connects to the 'flow' port on the Aquaero (for the 3 pin mechanical model) The MPS flow sensors connect to the Aquabus high port. The D5 pump does not have a flow sensor input.
The Aquabus port on the pump connects to the Aquabus high port on the Aquaero.
All Aquabus devices connect to the Aquabus high port. The aquabus low port is for older discontinued devices and is now disabled. For multiple aquabus connections you will need a splitter. Some PWM splitters will work or Aquacomp makes the splitty device.

The Aquaero only has an output for a single RGB LED. To control RGB strips or multiple RGB LEDs you will need to use the Fabwerk

The 2 pin plugs are for the PWM 1 and 2 ports. They are 12V power outputs good for dimmable LED strips.
The 3 pin plug is for the relay port. It can be used to allow the Aquaero to shutdown the PC

If you google Aquaero wiring there are lots of wiring diagrams available that show how everything needs to be hooked up. Be sure of what you are doing because you can damage things by connecting to the wrong ports.


----------



## hisXLNC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ashcroft*
> 
> The temp sensor can be connected to any temp input header.
> The flow sensor only connects to the 'flow' port on the Aquaero (for the 3 pin mechanical model) The MPS flow sensors connect to the Aquabus high port. The D5 pump does not have a flow sensor input.
> The Aquabus port on the pump connects to the Aquabus high port on the Aquaero.
> All Aquabus devices connect to the Aquabus high port. The aquabus low port is for older discontinued devices and is now disabled. For multiple aquabus connections you will need a splitter. Some PWM splitters will work or Aquacomp makes the splitty device.
> 
> The Aquaero only has an output for a single RGB LED. To control RGB strips or multiple RGB LEDs you will need to use the Fabwerk
> 
> The 2 pin plugs are for the PWM 1 and 2 ports. They are 12V power outputs good for dimmable LED strips.
> The 3 pin plug is for the relay port. It can be used to allow the Aquaero to shutdown the PC
> 
> If you google Aquaero wiring there are lots of wiring diagrams available that show how everything needs to be hooked up. Be sure of what you are doing because you can damage things by connecting to the wrong ports.


thanks for taking the time to help me out

1. could I connect the in line temp sensors to the usb pumps or were you talking about only to the aquaero?

2. ill need a y splitter for which id need to connect the two flow sensors to the flow port on the aquaero?

3. a y splitter to connect the two pumps to the aquabus high port on the aquaero?

would the aquaero be able to read/control the pumps and flow sensors individually if they are connected using the y spliiter?


----------



## chibi

HI guys, quick question regarding temp sensors. Are the connections + and - dependent? Or can I plug them in whichever way and they will still give me a temp reading?
I plan to use one of the included temp sensors from the Aquaero to monitor ambient temps, and another one from an inline fitting to monitor water temps.

Thanks!


----------



## Master Chicken

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chibi*
> 
> HI guys, quick question regarding temp sensors. Are the connections + and - dependent? Or can I plug them in whichever way and they will still give me a temp reading?
> I plan to use one of the included temp sensors from the Aquaero to monitor ambient temps, and another one from an inline fitting to monitor water temps.
> 
> Thanks!


NTC Thermistors are not polarized. They can go in either way.

It's a good question though as other temperature sensing methods can be polarized ... like bi-metallic thermocouples.

But the AQ uses 10Kohm NTC's.


----------



## viperguy212

Hey all,

I tired looking through nearly 1000 but couldn't find an answer for a simple question of mine, hoping someone could help a guy out.

I have 5 PWM fans and a single coolant temp sensor. Given the ~$30 US price difference is there any real reason for me to pay more for a Aquaero 6 LT vs a Aquaero 5 LT?

Thanks!


----------



## chibi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Master Chicken*
> 
> NTC Thermistors are not polarized. They can go in either way.
> 
> It's a good question though as other temperature sensing methods can be polarized ... like bi-metallic thermocouples.
> 
> But the AQ uses 10Kohm NTC's.


Thank you sir! I checked the manual, but all the sensor ports did not have a label on them, but thought I'd check here to be safe. Team thread rocks!


----------



## Jubijub

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *viperguy212*
> 
> Hey all,
> 
> I tired looking through nearly 1000 but couldn't find an answer for a simple question of mine, hoping someone could help a guy out.
> 
> I have 5 PWM fans and a single coolant temp sensor. Given the ~$30 US price difference is there any real reason for me to pay more for a Aquaero 6 LT vs a Aquaero 5 LT?
> 
> Thanks!


I see several reasons to go with the 6 :
- if you decide to expand your fan capacity, the AQ6 has more headroom regarding power
- I suspect an AQ6 can survive several builds, so in the end the 30$ divided by the amount of months you'll use it is probably negligible

If you are sure you don't need more, then I would even argue about the need to have an Aquaero at all : most CMs have a temp in port where you could plug your sensor, as well as several PWM fan headers


----------



## viperguy212

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jubijub*
> 
> I see several reasons to go with the 6 :
> - if you decide to expand your fan capacity, the AQ6 has more headroom regarding power
> - I suspect an AQ6 can survive several builds, so in the end the 30$ divided by the amount of months you'll use it is probably negligible
> 
> If you are sure you don't need more, then I would even argue about the need to have an Aquaero at all : most CMs have a temp in port where you could plug your sensor, as well as several PWM fan headers


Thanks for the input, 6 it is. Totally unnecessary since my builds been running perfect for over a year but time to change the coolant so why not lol.


----------



## GTXJackBauer

I would also recommend the 6 versus the 5. 6 runs cooler, has more PWM channels, etc. The 6 is a fine tuned 5 in my eyes with all the bells and whistles.


----------



## havoc315

Is there a way to use the aq 6 to power an arduino pro 5v so I can use it to run my leds? I have the terminals for both relays. I also have a dedicated power supply for my leds I am just wondering if it would be possible to use the aq 6 to power the ardunio.
I'm controlling 12 fans, 2 pumps and two flow sensors with the aq 6. Should I just externally power the microcontroller or could I use the relay to power with all that's on it now?


----------



## Jokerfish

Just looking for clarification on one last thing:

I'll need to run 3 Corsair ML120s off of one pwm header via 3-way Y splitter. These are the MagLev version of the fans that require a full pwm signal. Would this be an issue on an Aq6 XT? I may need to do this twice, but it would be 3 fans per header and no more than that.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jokerfish*
> 
> Just looking for clarification on one last thing:
> 
> I'll need to run 3 Corsair ML120s off of one pwm header via 3-way Y splitter. These are the MagLev version of the fans that require a full pwm signal. Would this be an issue on an Aq6 XT? I may need to do this twice, but it would be 3 fans per header and no more than that.


Haven't heard of any issues with any of the Corsair fans in a very long time now, you should be fine.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *havoc315*
> 
> Is there a way to use the aq 6 to power an arduino pro 5v so I can use it to run my leds? I have the terminals for both relays. I also have a dedicated power supply for my leds I am just wondering if it would be possible to use the aq 6 to power the ardunio.
> I'm controlling 12 fans, 2 pumps and two flow sensors with the aq 6. Should I just externally power the microcontroller or could I use the relay to power with all that's on it now?


This isn't exactly a sensible question, or at least it isn't asked well. . . . .

The A6 gets both 12V and 5V power from the PSU, but doesn't have a 5V output.

You can use the PSU's 5V output to run your Arduino and LEDs, or if you want to have control of the LEDs without having to have the PC running, you could use the 5V standby from the PSU.

If you want to use something like a little RF remote control for the LEDs, you could get one of those from Amazon or Fleabay and do a little bit of modding so it can operate on 5V instead of 12V, and it can run off the PSU's 5V standby as well.


----------



## Ashcroft

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hisXLNC*
> 
> thanks for taking the time to help me out
> 
> 1. could I connect the in line temp sensors to the usb pumps or were you talking about only to the aquaero?
> 
> 2. ill need a y splitter for which id need to connect the two flow sensors to the flow port on the aquaero?
> 
> 3. a y splitter to connect the two pumps to the aquabus high port on the aquaero?
> 
> would the aquaero be able to read/control the pumps and flow sensors individually if they are connected using the y spliiter?


1) Yes you can connect the temp sensors to the temp inputs on the pumps or on the Aquaero
2) If you have the 3 pin mechanical flow sensors then one can be connected to the flow port and the other can be connected to fan header 1 while it is configured as a flow meter port. Splitters do not work for these flow sensors.
3) Yes, a splitter is needed to connect multiple Aquabus devices to the Aquabus high port on the Aquaero.
4) The Aquaero can control multiple pumps and read multiple MPS sensors on Aquabus splitters because each device is given a unique Aquabus address during setup using its USB connection.


----------



## havoc315

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> This isn't exactly a sensible question, or at least it isn't asked well. . . . .
> 
> The A6 gets both 12V and 5V power from the PSU, but doesn't have a 5V output.
> 
> You can use the PSU's 5V output to run your Arduino and LEDs, or if you want to have control of the LEDs without having to have the PC running, you could use the 5V standby from the PSU.
> 
> If you want to use something like a little RF remote control for the LEDs, you could get one of those from Amazon or Fleabay and do a little bit of modding so it can operate on 5V instead of 12V, and it can run off the PSU's 5V standby as well.


Thank you, I wasn't really quite sure how to word it but you answered what I was ask perfectly, this is the first time I'm attempting to do something like that. Thanks again.


----------



## Newtocooling

Has anyone been having problems with MSI Afterburner crashing Aquasuite? Aquasuite will run fine for me....until I start Afterburner then 2 seconds later a message that Aquasuite has stopped working. I can't restart either.


----------



## Barefooter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Newtocooling*
> 
> Has anyone been having problems with MSI Afterburner crashing Aquasuite? Aquasuite will run fine for me....until I start Afterburner then 2 seconds later a message that Aquasuite has stopped working. I can't restart either.


Shoggy made a post a few weeks back relating to the Windows 10 Creators Update.

He stated "The current workaround is to put the aquasuite to the exception list of Riva Tuner so it will not trigger the aquasuite anymore." You can check that post for the details.


----------



## becks

If i have a M8I and it has only 1 USB 3.0 connector that supports additional 2 USB 3.0 ports...and need the front panel of the case + Aquacomputer aquaero 6 LT connected...
Can I add these 2 items together to obtain that ? 20-Pin USB 3.0 Internal Header Y Splitter Cable + USB 3.0 to USB 2.0 Internal Adapter Cable ?
And where can I source them from here in the UK ? Any quality ones around ? I know how fussy a bad quality usb connector can be....


----------



## becks

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *becks*
> 
> If i have a M8I and it has only 1 USB 3.0 connector that supports additional 2 USB 3.0 ports...and need the front panel of the case + Aquacomputer aquaero 6 LT connected...
> Can I add these 2 items together to obtain that ? 20-Pin USB 3.0 Internal Header Y Splitter Cable + USB 3.0 to USB 2.0 Internal Adapter Cable ?
> And where can I source them from here in the UK ? Any quality ones around ? I know how fussy a bad quality usb connector can be....


Okay, Update to my previous post...Found a company willing to make the cable for me..
A custom cable so that I have Female 20 Pin USB 3.0 going to the motherboard than it splits to 1x USB 2.0 9-Pin Male Header and 1x USB 3.0 20 Pin Male so that I can connect 1x 2.0 USB device and 1x 3.0 USB Front panel connector to it at the same time....

The question is...Will It Work ?!


----------



## wmandra

add me to the list


----------



## docsys

***???
Do they have anything in stock left after your purchase?


----------



## wmandra

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *docsys*
> 
> ***???
> Do they have anything in stock left after your purchase?


HAHA. Not sure, but I think I just bought all remaining stock of EK-HD fittings from Performance PCs.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *becks*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *becks*
> 
> If i have a M8I and it has only 1 USB 3.0 connector that supports additional 2 USB 3.0 ports...and need the front panel of the case + Aquacomputer aquaero 6 LT connected...
> Can I add these 2 items together to obtain that ? 20-Pin USB 3.0 Internal Header Y Splitter Cable + USB 3.0 to USB 2.0 Internal Adapter Cable ?
> And where can I source them from here in the UK ? Any quality ones around ? I know how fussy a bad quality usb connector can be....
> 
> 
> 
> Okay, Update to my previous post...Found a company willing to make the cable for me..
> A custom cable so that I have Female 20 Pin USB 3.0 going to the motherboard than it splits to 1x USB 2.0 9-Pin Male Header and 1x USB 3.0 20 Pin Male so that I can connect 1x 2.0 USB device and 1x 3.0 USB Front panel connector to it at the same time....
> 
> The question is...Will It Work ?!
Click to expand...

you should never use a "y" cable on USB, it can ( not saying it will ) cause damage.

if you want to do this, you should remove the usb 2 line from one of the connectors. in theory it should work. afaik usb3 has a usb2 port built in. so again it should be able to run both usb 2 and usb 3 simultaneously. but i dont know if it will. if it were me, i would buy a cheap add in board and test it first, but that is up to you.

if you use a "y" splitter you run the risk of plugging 2 things into 1 port and that * might* cause damage


----------



## HaykOC

Looking at buying an A6 but dont know anything about these units. I remember people couldnt get enough of the A5s.

I want to control my radiator fan speed based on water temperature (i assume this is the best option for a loop containing multiple heat sources). Is this pretty easy to set up with the aquaero?

Used to BIOS fan control as I dont trust motherboard utilities and havent had a hard controller.


----------



## becks

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> you should never use a "y" cable on USB, it can ( not saying it will ) cause damage.
> 
> if you want to do this, you should remove the usb 2 line from one of the connectors. in theory it should work. afaik usb3 has a usb2 port built in. so again it should be able to run both usb 2 and usb 3 simultaneously. but i dont know if it will. if it were me, i would buy a cheap add in board and test it first, but that is up to you.
> 
> if you use a "y" splitter you run the risk of plugging 2 things into 1 port and that * might* cause damage


If a Y splitter is with a big red question mark ... any internal (not bay) usb hub ?...


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jokerfish*
> 
> Just looking for clarification on one last thing:
> 
> I'll need to run 3 Corsair ML120s off of one pwm header via 3-way Y splitter. These are the MagLev version of the fans that require a full pwm signal. Would this be an issue on an Aq6 XT? I may need to do this twice, but it would be 3 fans per header and no more than that.


Their no issues, I have about 6 running per channel. The only fans that had issues were BeQuiets Silent Wings 3 at one point.

You can also use Splitty 9 if you don't feel like using a Y or Z Cable.


----------



## Jokerfish

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wmandra*
> 
> add me to the list


Someone's trying to corner the market!

Does anyone have any input on the AquaComputer flow sensor? I've been using Koolance so far, which are decent enough but tend to emit a ticking-chittering sound. Also I have one where the wire just fell out of the white goop and I had to take a soldering iron and stab at it until I could melt enough to reconnect the wires. In the end I got it working again but it looks about as good as that sounds.

Are AC's flow sensors the same setup as the bitspower wheel designed units, where it just flows and pushes the propeller with magnets in it? All the product images are from the one angle. Is it noisy?


----------



## Jubijub

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *becks*
> 
> If a Y splitter is with a big red question mark ... any internal (not bay) usb hub ?...


Aquacomputer Hubby7
1:7 hub for USB2.0


----------



## Shoggy

Our flow sensor also works with a spinning impeller that has two magnets in it. A ticking noise is possible if you have a higher flow rate. I would say above 150 l/h the risk of hearing a noise will rise. The mps flow sensors have no moving parts but to be honest their initial setup is a bit more tricky and to get an accurate measurement you might have to calibrate the sensor on your own.


----------



## becks

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jubijub*
> 
> Aquacomputer Hubby7
> 1:7 hub for USB2.0


Saw that one, but to use it I would need 2 adaptors at least as the MB has only 1 usb 3.0 port and the case has usb 3.0 again... any internal 3.0 hub' ?!


----------



## Revan654

Quick Question: Any issues using the Flow sensor with Mayhems XT-1 Nuke Coolant?


----------



## Cathgar

Hi,

I have an Aquaero 5 XT but want to upgrade to the Aquaero 6 due to PWM fan headers etc. etc.

I was wondering if the Aquaero 6 LT would connect to the Aquaero 5 XT LCD screen using the same side pin connection?

thanks


----------



## becks

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *becks*
> 
> Okay, Update to my previous post...Found a company willing to make the cable for me..
> A custom cable so that I have Female 20 Pin USB 3.0 going to the motherboard than it splits to 1x USB 2.0 9-Pin Male Header and 1x USB 3.0 20 Pin Male so that I can connect 1x 2.0 USB device and 1x 3.0 USB Front panel connector to it at the same time....
> 
> The question is...Will It Work ?!


*Anyone tried this ?! Will it work ?*

Think I will sell my AQ 6LT + Back plate + Battery raiser card *if not* ( Anyone in the UK/Europe interested ? PM me your best offer + shipping)
No scratches..like new condition + all original boxes and accessories + invoices so you have warranty (used it for 1h to test some fans and that's it)


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cathgar*
> 
> Hi,
> 
> I have an Aquaero 5 XT but want to upgrade to the Aquaero 6 due to PWM fan headers etc. etc.
> 
> I was wondering if the Aquaero 6 LT would connect to the Aquaero 5 XT LCD screen using the same side pin connection?
> 
> thanks


Yes they do.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *becks*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *becks*
> 
> Okay, Update to my previous post...Found a company willing to make the cable for me..
> A custom cable so that I have Female 20 Pin USB 3.0 going to the motherboard than it splits to 1x USB 2.0 9-Pin Male Header and 1x USB 3.0 20 Pin Male so that I can connect 1x 2.0 USB device and 1x 3.0 USB Front panel connector to it at the same time....
> 
> The question is...Will It Work ?!
> 
> 
> 
> *Anyone tried this ?! Will it work ?*
> 
> Think I will sell my AQ 6LT + Back plate + Battery raiser card *if not* ( Anyone in the UK/Europe interested ? PM me your best offer + shipping)
> No scratches..like new condition + all original boxes and accessories + invoices so you have warranty (used it for 1h to test some fans and that's it)
Click to expand...

You have to read for our answers, as we already answered you


----------



## becks

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> Yes they do.
> You have to read for our answers, as we already answered you


Yes and no, they say no I say yes...
I need reasoning and explanation...
Its not enough to know what's good and bad ...i want to learn if I don't ask to much


----------



## MuxLee

how many usb 3 headers n the motherboard
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *becks*
> 
> Yes and no, they say no I say yes...
> I need reasoning and explanation...
> Its not enough to know what's good and bad ...i want to learn if I don't ask to much


how many usb 3 headers on the motherboard ?

I cant see where the 2nd is connected ?


----------



## becks

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MuxLee*
> 
> how many usb 3 headers n the motherboard
> how many usb 3 headers on the motherboard ?
> 
> I cant see where the 2nd is connected ?


There is one usb 3 20 pin header on the motherboard (only 1) that...accordingly to the diagram of the wires and the motherboard manual supports 2x usb connections at the same time (eg...2 usb devices in the front of the case) my question was if anyone tried to split that header...so I can connect the front bay and the aquaero 6lt at the same time....assuming I am using only 1 of the front usb's in theory there should not be any problem....
But wanted to confirm it here and see if anyone has used a usb 3.0 slitter before ?!


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *becks*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *MuxLee*
> 
> how many usb 3 headers n the motherboard
> how many usb 3 headers on the motherboard ?
> 
> I cant see where the 2nd is connected ?
> 
> 
> 
> There is one usb 3 20 pin header on the motherboard (only 1) that...accordingly to the diagram of the wires and the motherboard manual supports 2x usb connections at the same time (eg...2 usb devices in the front of the case) my question was if anyone tried to split that header...so I can connect the front bay and the aquaero 6lt at the same time....assuming I am using only 1 of the front usb's in theory there should not be any problem....
> But wanted to confirm it here and see if anyone has used a usb 3.0 slitter before ?!
Click to expand...

I've got a couple mitx builds in progress that have one USB 3 20 pin header onboard, but no USB 2's.

I do not want to loose the front panel USB 3's, so I'm going with this cable to get USB 2 from the rear I/O to an internal USB 2 hub for the Aq and Farby etc.

http://www.performance-pcs.com/usb-internal-female-header-to-usb-a-cable.html


----------



## becks

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> I've got a couple mitx builds in progress that have one USB 3 20 pin header onboard, but no USB 2's.
> 
> I do not want to loose the front panel USB 3's, so I'm going with this cable to get USB 2 from the rear I/O to an internal USB 2 hub for the Aq and Farby etc.
> 
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/usb-internal-female-header-to-usb-a-cable.html


Thank you, this is something I should look into...Wonder if they still have somewhere on the market the 90 degree usb a cable...


----------



## MuxLee

can you use a riser card ... and plug the aq6 it into that and you would gain more usb if that's important to you.


----------



## becks

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MuxLee*
> 
> can you use a riser card ... and plug the aq6 it into that and you would gain more usb if that's important to you.


You mean a pci card ? if yes...its a M8I motherboard, only 1 pci slot used by GPU


----------



## MuxLee

get the cable like Diva said. splitting the usb 3 cable does nt seem like a good idea ... but in theory it works , would need to see the cable .

there are 2 ports / socket so you could have one usb 2 and 1 usb 3 from that single port

Mux


----------



## becks

I found a company willing to make a custom cable for me...

20-Pin USB 3.0 Internal Header Y Splitter Cable +USB 3.0 to USB 2.0 Internal Adapter Cable

What you say @MuxLee


----------



## MuxLee

http://www.kustompcs.co.uk/cgi-bin/ss000003.pl?page=search&PR=-1&TB=A&SS=usb+internal+&ACTION=Go%21

those cables seem expensive ? and the postage from china ?
have a look there are lots of options there ..... you should put a hub in case if you have the space .

Mux


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *becks*
> 
> I found a company willing to make a custom cable for me...
> 
> 20-Pin USB 3.0 Internal Header Y Splitter Cable +USB 3.0 to USB 2.0 Internal Adapter Cable
> 
> What you say @MuxLee


I have the second cable, It worked fine when I used it in a very old build.


----------



## Cathgar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> Yes they do.


Thank you


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *becks*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> Yes they do.
> You have to read for our answers, as we already answered you
> 
> 
> 
> Yes and no, they say no I say yes...
> I need reasoning and explanation...
> Its not enough to know what's good and bad ...i want to learn if I don't ask to much
Click to expand...

And I told you it was a bad idea, because you can't just split usb signals. And it can cause damage (key word is can).

If you can not see why from that than I can't help you. I also gave you 2 options either remove the usb 2 signals from that header (the front port) and put in a usb hub or just leave them removed.


----------



## hisXLNC

So i have a couple aqua computer in line temp sensor and both of them leak.

I have the aqua computer d5 usb pump and im also running the 3 pin flow meter.

Is there any better temp sensor or a recommended flow/temp sensor combo?

This is the 2nd time i try to install thisnin line temp sensor and it always leaks and i really dont want to try a 3rd time


----------



## iamjanco

Just an update: re. the testing of the pwm SW3 fans with the 6XT that I need to do, just won a Tek 465 on eBay for $250. Been watching the guy selling these for a few months now, and he seems to know what he's doing.

Should be here next Monday, give or take:


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hisXLNC*
> 
> So i have a couple aqua computer in line temp sensor and both of them leak.
> 
> I have the aqua computer d5 usb pump and im also running the 3 pin flow meter.
> 
> Is there any better temp sensor or a recommended flow/temp sensor combo?
> 
> This is the 2nd time i try to install thisnin line temp sensor and it always leaks and i really dont want to try a 3rd time


Where is it leaking, they usually don't leak. And which ones (link please)


----------



## GTXJackBauer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hisXLNC*
> 
> So i have a couple aqua computer in line temp sensor and both of them leak.
> 
> I have the aqua computer d5 usb pump and im also running the 3 pin flow meter.
> 
> Is there any better temp sensor or a recommended flow/temp sensor combo?
> 
> This is the 2nd time i try to install thisnin line temp sensor and it always leaks and i really dont want to try a 3rd time


Check the threads on both the rads and temp sensors and test them outside of the case to see if it still leaks before putting it back together.

The 3-pin AC flow meter is fine. I'm using one as we speak.


----------



## alexwill22

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hisXLNC*
> 
> So i have a couple aqua computer in line temp sensor and both of them leak.
> 
> I have the aqua computer d5 usb pump and im also running the 3 pin flow meter.
> 
> Is there any better temp sensor or a recommended flow/temp sensor combo?
> 
> This is the 2nd time i try to install thisnin line temp sensor and it always leaks and i really dont want to try a 3rd time


Are you using the rubber gasket where the threads are? Sometimes they fall off during shipping and people think it is an extra and never put it on before installation.


----------



## valvehead

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iamjanco*
> 
> Just an update: re. the testing of the pwm SW3 fans with the 6XT that I need to do, just won a Tek 465 on eBay for $250. Been watching the guy selling these for a few months now, and he seems to know what he's doing.
> 
> Should be here next Monday, give or take:


I love old Tek analog scopes. I've got a 2246A.

But when it comes to digital scopes, I gotta go with Agilent/Keysight. Some day when I have some extra cash...


----------



## hisXLNC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> Where is it leaking, they usually don't leak. And which ones (link please)


These
http://shop.aquacomputer.de/product_info.php?products_id=2291&language=en

Ill double check exact location again. Was a long day working on the loop and after the leak i drained the loop and called it a day.

Could i use a 3 pin extension with these?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GTXJackBauer*
> 
> Check the threads on both the rads and temp sensors and test them outside of the case to see if it still leaks before putting it back together.
> 
> The 3-pin AC flow meter is fine. I'm using one as we speak.


Yeah the 3 pin doesnt seem to leak, its just the temp sensor. Will have to test it again outside
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alexwill22*
> 
> Are you using the rubber gasket where the threads are? Sometimes they fall off during shipping and people think it is an extra and never put it on before installation.


Yeah, the o-ring is on there. I even bought extra o rings this time because i tried this before and it also leaked


----------



## Edge0fsanity

I'm going to be doing a few upgrades with aqua computer parts next week and i had a few questions i couldn't figure out.

What is the maximum number of aquabus devices that can be used on the aq6 pro? I currently have 3 ac d5 pumps connected via aquabus and i'm going to add a 4th ac d5 along with an mps400. I want to connect 5 devices in total.

Is there a certain distance from the pumps that the mps400 needs to be placed? I seem to remember a discussion where placing it too close to pumps can cause incorrect readings.

The last is the licensing system, i know this is a bit old at this point but i've been avoiding updating aquasuite because of it. I've got an aq6 pro with almost 500 days uptime on it, do i need to buy the license if i update?


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hisXLNC*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> Where is it leaking, they usually don't leak. And which ones (link please)
> 
> 
> 
> These
> http://shop.aquacomputer.de/product_info.php?products_id=2291&language=en
> 
> Ill double check exact location again. Was a long day working on the loop and after the leak i drained the loop and called it a day.
> 
> Could i use a 3 pin extension with these?
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *GTXJackBauer*
> 
> Check the threads on both the rads and temp sensors and test them outside of the case to see if it still leaks before putting it back together.
> 
> The 3-pin AC flow meter is fine. I'm using one as we speak.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Yeah the 3 pin doesnt seem to leak, its just the temp sensor. Will have to test it again outside
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *alexwill22*
> 
> Are you using the rubber gasket where the threads are? Sometimes they fall off during shipping and people think it is an extra and never put it on before installation.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Yeah, the o-ring is on there. I even bought extra o rings this time because i tried this before and it also leaked
Click to expand...

these dont usually leak as there is few places it can. i would bet the fittings that are connected to it are leaking !

you should just be able to use a 3 pin fan extension on the flow meter
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Edge0fsanity*
> 
> I'm going to be doing a few upgrades with aqua computer parts next week and i had a few questions i couldn't figure out.
> 
> What is the maximum number of aquabus devices that can be used on the aq6 pro? I currently have 3 ac d5 pumps connected via aquabus and i'm going to add a 4th ac d5 along with an mps400. I want to connect 5 devices in total.
> 
> Is there a certain distance from the pumps that the mps400 needs to be placed? I seem to remember a discussion where placing it too close to pumps can cause incorrect readings.
> 
> The last is the licensing system, i know this is a bit old at this point but i've been avoiding updating aquasuite because of it. I've got an aq6 pro with almost 500 days uptime on it, do i need to buy the license if i update?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> As general information. The following aquabus devices can be attached to a single aquaero at the same time:
> 
> 2x aquastream XT or ULTIMATE
> 8x poweradjust 2/3
> 1x aquaero 5/6 LT as slave (in this case only 4x poweradjust 2/3)
> 4x mps-based devices (D5 USB, flow and pressure/level sensors)
> 4x devices with VISION module
> 2x farbwerk
> 1x real time clock module


as to licenses, you never HAVE to buy one. you can buy one to use *new* features. the old versions will still get updates to critical issues !!

imo @Shoggy the licensing is great, you have been very supportive and have fixed problems ( or offered fixes to some ) before they were apparent and the problem that i am referencing is imo very obscure


----------



## Scottland

Has anyone had issues with aquasuite crashing on startup? I get the splashscreen then I get a generic windows 'aquasuite has stopped working' message.


----------



## becks

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scottland*
> 
> Has anyone had issues with aquasuite crashing on startup? I get the splashscreen then I get a generic windows 'aquasuite has stopped working' message.


Do you have eyther Win 10 Creator or Afterburner ?


----------



## Scottland

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *becks*
> 
> Do you have eyther Win 10 Creator or Afterburner ?


Yep - it was RTSS causing it. Managed to find a post on the aquacomputer forum highlighting thee issue and the current RTSS beta plays nicely with it.


----------



## becks

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scottland*
> 
> Yep - it was RTSS causing it. Managed to find a post on the aquacomputer forum highlighting thee issue and the current RTSS beta plays nicely with it.


Happy to see it was sorte out


----------



## GTXJackBauer

Becks, is that PC on fire in your profile pic?


----------



## GnarlyCharlie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GTXJackBauer*
> 
> Becks, is that PC on fire in your profile pic?


I liked that pic, given his recent issues with heat


----------



## Mega Man

thats what you call too many LEDs !~


----------



## hisXLNC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> these dont usually leak as there is few places it can. i would bet the fittings that are connected to it are leaking !
> 
> you should just be able to use a 3 pin fan extension on the flow meter
> 
> as to licenses, you never HAVE to buy one. you can buy one to use *new* features. the old versions will still get updates to critical issues !!
> 
> imo @Shoggy the licensing is great, you have been very supportive and have fixed problems ( or offered fixes to some ) before they were apparent and the problem that i am referencing is imo very obscure


i mean can i put a 2 pin temp sensor into a 3 pin extension and plug that into the 2 pin temp sensor connection on the pump with 1 pin out?

also, I replaced the o-ring and used a bitspower extender and i think theyre good now









i think plugging it directly into the rad was causing the issue because using the bitspower fittings on either end seems to have fixed it


----------



## becks

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GTXJackBauer*
> 
> Becks, is that PC on fire in your profile pic?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GnarlyCharlie*
> 
> I liked that pic, given his recent issues with heat


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> thats what you call too many LEDs !~


Its literally on fire...and frankly it is the single best way to learn something...
I tend to push the limits and cross lines quite often...
Either that or you learn from others...but those who know to much are not really keen to share with a newbie


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hisXLNC*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> these dont usually leak as there is few places it can. i would bet the fittings that are connected to it are leaking !
> 
> you should just be able to use a 3 pin fan extension on the flow meter
> 
> as to licenses, you never HAVE to buy one. you can buy one to use *new* features. the old versions will still get updates to critical issues !!
> 
> imo @Shoggy the licensing is great, you have been very supportive and have fixed problems ( or offered fixes to some ) before they were apparent and the problem that i am referencing is imo very obscure
> 
> 
> 
> i mean can i put a 2 pin temp sensor into a 3 pin extension and plug that into the 2 pin temp sensor connection on the pump with 1 pin out?
> 
> also, I replaced the o-ring and used a bitspower extender and i think theyre good now
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> i think plugging it directly into the rad was causing the issue because using the bitspower fittings on either end seems to have fixed it
Click to expand...

i am glad about the fitting

the temp probe just depends, and i cant help you, iirc aquaero needs 10k ohm thermisters. but idk

theres a few common types 10k ohm 20kohm and a few others

if it works, it will work ... sorry i know that is not the answer you want, never hurts to try
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *becks*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *GTXJackBauer*
> 
> Becks, is that PC on fire in your profile pic?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *GnarlyCharlie*
> 
> I liked that pic, given his recent issues with heat
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> thats what you call too many LEDs !~
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Its literally on fire...and frankly it is the single best way to learn something...
> I tend to push the limits and cross lines quite often...
> Either that or you learn from others...but those who know to much are not really keen to share with a newbie
Click to expand...

i disagree, 99% of the time you are willing to teach, they are not willing to learn, " you cant fill a cup that is overflowing "


----------



## becks

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> i am glad about the fitting
> 
> the temp probe just depends, and i cant help you, iirc aquaero needs 10k ohm thermisters. but idk
> 
> theres a few common types 10k ohm 20kohm and a few others
> 
> if it works, it will work ... sorry i know that is not the answer you want, never hurts to try
> i disagree, 99% of the time you are willing to teach, they are not willing to learn, " you cant fill a cup that is overflowing "


I disagree as well and I speak for ME and what I learned!
Whenever someone gamed me any info it was either 10 or 20% of the full story

And No! that does not mean that I have never received any advice or learned nothing from anyone..It just means that if you put it in balance there were far more occasions where I had to learn myself.


----------



## zerophase

I've just notice the flow rate reported by my MPS high flow sensor has dropped. I have dual DDC 3.2 pwm pumps running between 33% to 40% power. Previously I was able to get 1 gpm with 30% power, but had to increase that a tad to account for an added NVME drive water block. I'm currently sitting at 0.7 gpm, down from 1 gpm. How should I go about troubleshooting this?


----------



## lovan6

Bleed your system first. sometime it takes time for the MPS to stabilize.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *becks*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *GTXJackBauer*
> 
> Becks, is that PC on fire in your profile pic?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *GnarlyCharlie*
> 
> I liked that pic, given his recent issues with heat
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> thats what you call too many LEDs !~
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Its literally on fire*...and frankly it is the single best way to learn something...
> I tend to push the limits and cross lines quite often...
> Either that or you learn from others...but those who know to much are not really keen to share with a newbie*
Click to expand...

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *becks*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> i am glad about the fitting
> 
> the temp probe just depends, and i cant help you, iirc aquaero needs 10k ohm thermisters. but idk
> 
> theres a few common types 10k ohm 20kohm and a few others
> 
> if it works, it will work ... sorry i know that is not the answer you want, never hurts to try
> i disagree, 99% of the time you are willing to teach, they are not willing to learn, " you cant fill a cup that is overflowing "
> 
> 
> 
> I disagree as well and I speak for ME and what I learned!
> *Whenever someone gamed me any info it was either 10 or 20% of the full story
> 
> And No! that does not mean that I have never received any advice or learned nothing from anyone..It just means that if you put it in balance there were far more occasions where I had to learn myself*.
Click to expand...

I've been here on OCN for a few years now, and I've seen a number of very talented and knowledgeable people either leave or just stop posting. Over these years, I've seen more and more of the "I just want a quick answer, I don't care about the physics or theory about how to figure it out myself next time" kind of newbies.

I think the two are directly related . . .

There's a direct relationship between people with knowledge, experience, and answers, and them wanting to impart that on those willing to learn how to figure things out for themselves going forward.

There are threads I no longer visit because they are so populated by the inexperienced with all the answers.

They are so often so full of bad advice from being in their own echo chamber, that they scoff at sound reasoning.

When you present as someone very keen to understand the "why", and wanting to learn the "how come", you'll find a lot more people willing to take the time to help you get there.

My







as someone who has made an effort to give back to the community and be helpful,

Darlene


----------



## becks

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*


The key word I think is Polarity... and we often meat it.
At the moment I got at least a dozen problems for which I can't get logic, theoretical answers..
Am I the only one on the entire forum who has ever experienced these problems ? I doubt it..I highly doubt it..
Are there people who have had this situation and fixed it ? Quite plausible...but they don't reply...and they don't share their knowledge...
Why ?! maybe because its far more complicated to do so than to just trow a "no, it wont work..give up"

I think we should stop here...it gets to such a point... way way out of topic.


----------



## iamjanco

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *valvehead*
> 
> I love old Tek analog scopes. I've got a 2246A.
> 
> But when it comes to digital scopes, I gotta go with Agilent/Keysight. Some day when I have some extra cash...


The 2246A is also a very nice, analog, 4 channel scope, built to last forever if properly maintained and not abused.

As for the 465, I was going to borrow one from a buddy, but learned he let it go sometime back, so I decided I'd invest in my own scope, cheap new probes and all.

I also want an MSO to fiddle around with my Arduino and other stuff, but didn't want to purchase one of the bottom line versions from mainland China given the experiences of others I've read in places like eevblog. I also don't need a $2,000+ scope for my hobby tinkering, so a new, higher-end Keysight or something in its price range is a bit out of the question at this time. GW Instek does tempt a bit though.


----------



## iamjanco

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *becks*
> 
> Its literally on fire...and frankly it is the single best way to learn something...


I'd agree, but you do have to be careful. *Some of this stuff can kill you*.

I was a snot-nosed, young pup who was fresh out tech school back in the early '70s during my first permanent party assignment to McGuire AFB in New Jersey. I was working on the bench on a pilot's scope (don't recall the nomenclature) for the APN-59B search and weather radar system, while everyone else was sitting around the break table on the other side of the shop, laughing it up. It was also the middle of midnight shift.

Anyway, the scope needed a new crt. Size and weight wise, it was a pretty small and light, unlike its brother which was installed in the navigator's position on the C141. Didn't take long to replace the crt, sliding the cover off, disconnecting the few odd connectors and screws, including the -2400 VDC HV line from the power supply connected to the CRT. Trace alignment also looked like a fairly simple job, especially since the gear-train used what looked like non-conductive, nylon-like gears. I should add that these observations until now were all made with power off and the scope's cables not connected to anything.

Anyway, when I was ready to align the newly replaced crt, having connected it up and so forth, I took note of the DANGER: -2400 VDC caution label on the side of the gear-train housing, figuring I'd be okay given the "non-conductive, nylon" gears. So I switched on power, picked up my metal allen wrench with my left hand, put my right hand on the right side of the "light and small" scope to hold it steady and keep it from shifting around on the bench, then stuck the metal allen wrench into one of the metal set screws securing one of the "nylon" gears to the metal shaft it was riding on.

I landed about six or eight feet from where I had been on the floor of the shop, not knowing what hit me. Felt like a horse's hind legs, only bigger and harder. Those sitting around the break table on the other side of the shop stopped jabbering, looked up, asked if I was okay, then went back to telling war stories after I acknowledged that I thought I was. After a short touch and feel episode making sure I was was indeed okay, I went back to finishing things up.

That was the early '70s in the military, pretty much just before the end of the conflict in SE Asia, during a time when those who opted for midnight shift had a propensity to wear sunglasses when the moon was less than full.

Btw, never did find that allen wrench. Ended up using a different one.

Oh, and amen to what Darlene shared, and what Beck said about returning to topic.


----------



## zerophase

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lovan6*
> 
> Bleed your system first. sometime it takes time for the MPS to stabilize.


I don't think that's the issue. The system has been running for about 4 months. I'm just trying to figure out if it's the coolant clogging the blocks or one of the pumps is dying. I can't seem to find the zero calibration button in the current version of Aquasuite.


----------



## iamjanco

For those interested in the "Diva Mod," the background behind it and the reason(s) why I'm so interested in it, I figured I'd share the following compilation of links to info associated with it. My reasons include the fact that I want to use PWM versions of BeQuiet's SW3 (which I already had on hand) in my current build which includes an AQ6 and related components.

I'm hoping some of you will find it useful, at least as a summary of what I've noted in the thousands upon thousands of pages here and elsewhere.

My question(s) are based on what I've read in the linked info that follows below, and is/are pretty much summed up as follows:

Ref. *Thermal Bench: Fan Reviews, Performance Pages*, see content about RPM tracking related issues associated with certain PWM fans used with the AQ6. Also see Shoggy's (from AC Support) *explanation of the issue with PWM SW3 fans*.

That noted, per what I've read throughout the following links, the issue was applicable to Corsair PWM fans before AC did their resistor mod on the AQ6, though I'm not sure if that's been addressed in all cases of Corsair PWM fans, e.g., especially when a larger number of Corsair fans are being controlled via one channel; *the question I have is does the issue still apply to BeQuiet SW3 PWM fans? That's what I want to answer.*

Lastly, I'd just like to *shout out a BIG THANKYOU to Darlene* for all her hard work supporting others since *she* got involved with this sort of stuff. She's an incredibly talented, selfless resource who obviously has helped countless others, whether lurker or not. Shoggy from AC also deserves a big thanks of course.

Starts with the PWM D5 related stuff...

*AquaComputer Aquaero 6 - Page 88* (2/22/14)
Darlene does a little tweaking on her circuit to run the PWM D5's from the Aquaero 6
*
[AquaComputer] Aquaero 6 - Page 90* (2/25/14)
Darlene's PCB's ready to assemble (done etching the PCBs)

*[AquaComputer] Aquaero 6 - Page 90* (2/26/14)
Darlene's bare minimum +5V source and pull-up resistor example

*Darlene's DIY Voltage Controlled Scalable PWM Controller* Thread (5/27/13)

Related (offsite OCN at overclockers.com, 04/20/10)
*Adjustable PWM Controller for 4 wires PWM fan (not applicable for 3 wires fan)*

*Precision PWM Controller For Martin's Liquid Lab* Thread (7/21/13)

*The best PWM rad fans (going to be very exact spec needs)* Thread (8/10/14)

*Darlene Quoted* (8/13/14):

_I'm particularly familiar with the issue with the Corsair fans because it's become a big problem for Aquaero 6 owners who bought the AQ6 because it has 4 PWM capable channels expecting it to work with Corsair fans.

The issue is that Corsair does not follow the Intel PWM standard with their fans, since they designed them primarily to work with their own Corsair Link system. . .

They do market them however, as PWM, and that implies that they should behave like all the other PWM fans out there...

But they Do Not.
_

*OCN Aquaero Owners Club - Page 3* (3/16/14)
Darlene answers one of the first questions about controlling PWM D5s using the AQ5 or AQ6 (one of the first illustrations of the simplified "Diva Mod")

*OCN Aquaero Owners Club - Page 4* (3/16/14)
Darlene's post about the "Diva Mod" Simple Y-Cable Setup for Dual D5s

*OCN Aquaero Owners Club - Page 8* (3/19/14)
Darlene provides a Little Update on the Corsair Fans saga (test results, read forward from this post for additional info)

*OCN Aquaero Owners Club - Page 45* (6/16/14)
Darlene illustrates the changes AC made to resistor values on the AQ6 to accommodate Corsair PWM fans (how to tell if they were done on yours)

*The Utterly Imbalanced CaseLabs TX10-D build(s)!* (7/2/14, over at techpowerup.com, Darlene's work cited)
Interesting discussion of the impact too many incompatible PWM fans have on displayed RPMs by the Aquaero

*OCN Dave's Air Cooling Guide - Page 63* (9/22/14, read thread forward from here, discussion by DaveLT and Luke Cool about a "PWM amplifier,"; earlier info in thread might also be of interest to some)

*PWN splitter, PWN fan controller, PWN motherboard pins questions - Page 4* (9/25/14)
Darlene points out others' "bass ackwards" concepts

*Also see her hand-drawn schematic that follows the previous post noted above* (9/25/14)

*OCN Aquaero Owners Club - Page 132*
More info by others about the PWM issue, hubs, etc. (11/27/14, read from here forward)

*OCN Aquaero Owners Club - Page 133* (11/27/14)
Darlene sums it up once again, for Phanteks users and other folks (read forward)

*OCN Aquaero Owners Club - Page 321* (12/26/15)
Darlene corrects incorrect info by another about connecting PWM D5s to the AQ6 for a very good reason (read through the rest of the page as well, at least until you get through *here*)

*Other related info:*

*4-Wire Pulse Width Modulation (PWM) Controlled Fans Specification*
September 2005, Revision 1.3

*What is PWM and how does it work?* (7/14/16, offsite, good read for noobs)

*Maximintegrated: Fan Speed Control Is Cool!* (originally ca. 2000, updated/reposted 04/27/11, offsite, another interesting read for noobs)

*NIDEC's "A Simple PWM Generator for Fan Speed Control"* (offsite, click through the read "more" links)

*Pull-up Resistors* (good discussion about pullup and pulldown resistors used in logic circuits; for the nerds)

Also offsite at overclockers.com, *Building PWM Controller for 4 wires PWM fan*, long 113 page thread

@IT Diva may wish to vet this.


----------



## M-Sauce

Hello all

Ordered an Aquaero 6XT with some accessories. I got the three pin High Flow meter as well, but I did not get the cable to connect it. It looks like a regular 3pin fan connection.

Can I make my own cable for it using 3pin fan connectors or am I missing something?

Thanks for any help available.


----------



## ruffhi

your own 3-pin cable will be fine. That is what I did.


----------



## GTXJackBauer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iamjanco*
> 
> *OCN Aquaero Owners Club - Page 321* (12/26/15)
> Darlene corrects incorrect info by another about connecting PWM D5s to the AQ6 for a very good reason (read through the rest of the page as well, at least until you get through *here*)


To my defense, I some how thought the OP meant the USB/Aquabus pumps which would than make sense. It was during a seasonal hangover when I had posted. Lesson learned. Thanks for reminding me.


----------



## iamjanco

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GTXJackBauer*
> 
> To my defense, I some how thought the OP meant the USB/Aquabus pumps which would than make sense. It was during a seasonal hangover when I had posted. Lesson learned. Thanks for reminding me.


I can live with that


----------



## M-Sauce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ruffhi*
> 
> your own 3-pin cable will be fine. That is what I did.


Thanks Ruffhi


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M-Sauce*
> 
> Hello all
> 
> Ordered an Aquaero 6XT with some accessories. I got the three pin High Flow meter as well, but I did not get the cable to connect it. It looks like a regular 3pin fan connection.
> 
> Can I make my own cable for it using 3pin fan connectors or am I missing something?
> 
> Thanks for any help available.


The connector is not a normal fan cable on the flow meter..... That said iirc I used normal minifit jr pins and heat shrink on mine without issue


----------



## M-Sauce

Quote:


> The connector is not a normal fan cable on the flow meter.


Hi MegaMan, what makes it different from a regular 3 pin fan connector? Is the spacing between pins slightly different?
Quote:


> That said iirc I used normal minifit jr pins and heat shrink on mine without issue


Not sure I understand. Are you saying you hooked up the pins directly to the terminals individually without the plastic connector?


----------



## Shoggy

The connector type is named "PANCON MAS-CON 156 MLSS" and uses a different distance between the pins.


----------



## iamjanco

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> The connector type is named "PANCON MAS-CON 156 MLSS" and uses a different distance between the pins.


Thanks, Shoggy, that's good to know. Pitch spacing for the *PANCON you pointed* out is 3.96mm, and 2.54mm for your typical 3 and 4 pin fan connectors/headers.

TE/AMP makes a version of the same header (e.g., *AMP - TE CONNECTIVITY 644752-3 Wire-To-Board Connector, 3.96 mm*, 3 Contacts, Header, MTA-156 Series, Through Hole, 1 Rows), which can be used to *source the mating housings here in the States* as well.

Folks wanting to do so might want to weed through that linked catalog, as the specific mating parts will be determined based on the combination of a number of factors (e.g., terminals, polarity, and wire gauges you'll be using). An *easier method of making your choice can be found here*.


----------



## ruffhi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M-Sauce*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *ruffhi*
> 
> your own 3-pin cable will be fine. That is what I did.
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks Ruffhi
Click to expand...

oops - seems I gave you a bum steer. I certainly remember creating my own cable ... I must have reused the connectors.


----------



## M-Sauce

OK, thanks for the info guys. Looks like I'll need to order a cable or get a couple of these connectors.


----------



## ruffhi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ruffhi*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *M-Sauce*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *ruffhi*
> 
> your own 3-pin cable will be fine. That is what I did.
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks Ruffhi
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> oops - seems I gave you a bum steer. I certainly remember creating my own cable ... I must have reused the connectors.
Click to expand...

I just took a closer look at my flow meeting ... I have the USB type and the three pin version on this exactly fits a 3-pin fan connector (I just tried it).


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ruffhi*
> 
> I just took a closer look at my flow meeting ... I have the USB type and the three pin version on this exactly fits a 3-pin fan connector (I just tried it).


Non usb uses different 3 pin connection


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M-Sauce*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> The connector is not a normal fan cable on the flow meter.
> 
> 
> 
> Hi MegaMan, what makes it different from a regular 3 pin fan connector? Is the spacing between pins slightly different?
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> That said iirc I used normal minifit jr pins and heat shrink on mine without issue
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Not sure I understand. Are you saying you hooked up the pins directly to the terminals individually without the plastic connector?
Click to expand...

Correct, again. Mini fit jr ( pcie/24/8/4 pin connectors
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> The connector type is named "PANCON MAS-CON 156 MLSS" and uses a different distance between the pins.


Wow, thanks you have no idea how ling i looked for that.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iamjanco*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> The connector type is named "PANCON MAS-CON 156 MLSS" and uses a different distance between the pins.
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks, Shoggy, that's good to know. Pitch spacing for the *PANCON you pointed* out is 3.96mm, and 2.54mm for your typical 3 and 4 pin fan connectors/headers.
> 
> TE/AMP makes a version of the same header (e.g., *AMP - TE CONNECTIVITY 644752-3 Wire-To-Board Connector, 3.96 mm*, 3 Contacts, Header, MTA-156 Series, Through Hole, 1 Rows), which can be used to *source the mating housings here in the States* as well.
> 
> Folks wanting to do so might want to weed through that linked catalog, as the specific mating parts will be determined based on the combination of a number of factors (e.g., terminals, polarity, and wire gauges you'll be using). An *easier method of making your choice can be found here*.
Click to expand...

Also thanks

Here is how I did mine, how it helps

yep, she is dusty


----------



## Andrew LB

Anyone else having issues connecting to Aquacomputer.de ? Im trying to update my Aquasuite from 2017-1.3 to 2017-2 and i keep getting the message...
Quote:


> Connection to Aqua Computer server failed. Check your internet connection and firewall settings. Make sure your system time is set correctly.


----------



## Mega Man

mine connects coulda just been some maint or their service went down


----------



## M-Sauce

Quote:


> Wow, thanks you have no idea how ling i looked for that.


Although that's the name of the terminals (male) on the flowmeter it seems. Would love to know the name of the female connector, and if they make it in black. Guess I could dye it, but have gone through lots of paine to remove all ugly connectors in my build, so a glaring white plug will kind of stick out like a sore thumb.


----------



## M-Sauce

Never mind, found it here in this thread. Here is a link if anyone else is looking for the same thing:

http://www.mouser.hk/ProductDetail/Molex/09-93-0300/?qs=%2fha2pyFadugkKTrljU%252bmh20UXceQpBKLvqjaeXXSwLE=


----------



## iamjanco

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M-Sauce*
> 
> Never mind, found it here in this thread. Here is a link if anyone else is looking for the same thing:
> 
> http://www.mouser.hk/ProductDetail/Molex/09-93-0300/?qs=%2fha2pyFadugkKTrljU%252bmh20UXceQpBKLvqjaeXXSwLE=


Thanks for that! Here is a *U.S. link to the Molex series at Mouser* in case anyone ever needs something other than the three pin version. You can also source them at other *U.S. vendors via the Molex web site for the part*.

Added: Ref (for OCN search indexing)

Molex 3069 Series Headers & Wire Housings, Black (Sourced at Mouser)
Molex 3069 Series Headers & Wire Housings, Black (Sourced at Molex)
3 Pin Mouser Part #: 538-09-93-0300
3 Pin Manufacturer Part #: 09-93-0300
Manufacturer: Molex
Description: Headers & Wire Housings HOUSING KK .156IN GWT 3 ckt (.396 pitch)


----------



## Andrew LB

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> I've been here on OCN for a few years now, and I've seen a number of very talented and knowledgeable people either leave or just stop posting. Over these years, I've seen more and more of the "I just want a quick answer, I don't care about the physics or theory about how to figure it out myself next time" kind of newbies.
> 
> I think the two are directly related . . .
> 
> There's a direct relationship between people with knowledge, experience, and answers, and them wanting to impart that on those willing to learn how to figure things out for themselves going forward.
> 
> There are threads I no longer visit because they are so populated by the inexperienced with all the answers.
> 
> They are so often so full of bad advice from being in their own echo chamber, that they scoff at sound reasoning.
> 
> When you present as someone very keen to understand the "why", and wanting to learn the "how come", you'll find a lot more people willing to take the time to help you get there.
> 
> My
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> as someone who has made an effort to give back to the community and be helpful,
> 
> Darlene


I couldn't agree more. Its part of the reason why I stopped posting over on Xtremesystems. I hope things improved over there, but it was pretty bad for a while. I was posting on that forum back as far as 2003 i believe. Man im getting old....


----------



## Andrew LB

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> mine connects coulda just been some maint or their service went down


Yeah, its back up and I was able to update my software a few hours ago. For a while there i wasn't able to load their main site, forum, shop, or anything. Glad they got that sorted.

Now... today for me is going to involve a tear down of my loop, thorough cleaning of both blocks, new tubing, and hopefully i can clean up the tube runs a bit to reduce rotary fittings. Then fill the loop with Mayhems new XT-1 Nuke Clear and some of their non-stain UV ice blue dye. My flow rate has gone downhill by almost 25% and i'm certain its due to me not properly cleaning my rads with something more aggressive than a quick vinegar/hot water rinse.


----------



## Andrew LB

Well... still procrastinating and haven't redone my loop yet, but i did notice something strange. When looking through HWINFO32 i noticed something not as it should regarding my Aquaero. Mine seems to only be using USB 1.1 instead of 2.0. Any thoughts as to why?


----------



## Andrew LB

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M-Sauce*
> 
> Although that's the name of the terminals (male) on the flowmeter it seems. Would love to know the name of the female connector, and if they make it in black. Guess I could dye it, but have gone through lots of paine to remove all ugly connectors in my build, so a glaring white plug will kind of stick out like a sore thumb.


I used a large Sharpie permanent marker on mine and its perfect. Let it sit after applying the ink for a few minutes, then repeat a couple times if necessary.


----------



## BoredErica

Just like to double check here... Should I expect good RPM control at low RPMs with say, 24-26 Silent Wings 3 140mm fans?


----------



## Barefooter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Darkwizzie*
> 
> Just like to double check here... Should I expect good RPM control at low RPMs with say, 24-26 Silent Wings 3 140mm fans?


Yes you should get good low RPM control with an Aquaero 6. I assume you are getting the PWM version of the Silent Wing fans.

I did some testing awhile back with the EK Vardar F3 140mm fans to see what kind of low RPM control I could get. Here's a link to the post in my build log. There's a couple of charts there too.


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Darkwizzie*
> 
> Just like to double check here... Should I expect good RPM control at low RPMs with say, 24-26 Silent Wings 3 140mm fans?


Yes, I know there some issues with SW3 PWM version when they first launched(Due to micro chip controlling the PWM signals). All seem to working fine now with firmware update. I have a bunch of 140 SW3 PWM for my front in-take(No Radiators). One 120 SW3 PWM for exhaust.

I use ML Pro 140 for rest of my fans(My Radiator Fans).


----------



## BoredErica

> Originally Posted by *Barefooter*
> 
> Yes you should get good low RPM control with an Aquaero 6. I assume you are getting the PWM version of the Silent Wing fans.
> 
> I did some testing awhile back with the EK Vardar F3 140mm fans to see what kind of low RPM control I could get. Here's a link to the post in my build log. There's a couple of charts there too.





> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> Yes, I know there some issues with SW3 PWM version when they first launched(Due to micro chip controlling the PWM signals). All seem to working fine now with firmware update. I have a bunch of 140 SW3 PWM for my front in-take(No Radiators). One 120 SW3 PWM for exhaust.
> 
> I use ML Pro 140 for rest of my fans(My Radiator Fans).


Thanks for the responses...

I was primarily concerned about 2 things:

1) The PWM signal getting weaker as each fan header has to send PWM signals to 6-8 fans each.

2) My Sentry Mix 2 could make the fans go super fast... but the minimum fan speed was still kind of high.

From what I am seeing, it all checks out.


----------



## iamjanco

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Barefooter*
> 
> Yes you should get good low RPM control with an Aquaero 6. I assume you are getting the PWM version of the Silent Wing fans.
> 
> I did some testing awhile back with the EK Vardar F3 140mm fans to see what kind of low RPM control I could get. Here's a link to the post in my build log. There's a couple of charts there too.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> Yes, I know there some issues with SW3 PWM version when they first launched(Due to micro chip controlling the PWM signals). All seem to working fine now with firmware update. I have a bunch of 140 SW3 PWM for my front in-take(No Radiators). One 120 SW3 PWM for exhaust.
> 
> I use ML Pro 140 for rest of my fans(My Radiator Fans).


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Darkwizzie*
> 
> Thanks for the responses...
> 
> I was primarily concerned about 2 things:
> 
> 1) The PWM signal getting weaker as each fan header has to send PWM signals to 6-8 fans each.
> 2) My Sentry Mix 2 could make the fans go super fast... but the minimum fan speed was still kind of high.
> 
> From what I am seeing, it all checks out.


Is there a changelog for the firmware someplace (or other info stated by AC) that actually indicates AC provided a fix that allows proper pwm control of a higher number (e.g., 8x 140 fans on a 560 rad) of pwm SW3 fans on one channel? Only asking because in the following link at the AC support forum, the issue still existed at the end of 2016 (in German, 2nd page of the thread): *Lüfterregelung unterschiedlich*

Note: nothing is stated about hardware, firmware and software versions being used at the time in that thread, so if a fix was provided since that thread was created, the answer to my question could be self-explanatory.

@Shoggy

Btw, I am aware of the resistor fix for the Corsair pwm fan issue, It's not the same issue though.


----------



## Shoggy

The problem with the SW3 PWM fans was already explained here. Other fans can show similar problems and no firmware update will be able to fix that since it is a hardware related problem, but not on our side.


----------



## iamjanco

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> The problem with the SW3 PWM fans was already explained here. Other fans can show similar problems and no firmware update will be able to fix that since it is a hardware related problem, but not on our side.


Thanks for the repeat clarification, Shoggy, and I apologize for bugging you about it. That's exactly what I understood, and why I bought an oscope myself for testing purposes (again, thanks to the research conducted over the years by Darlene). I asked for the additional clarification because of what I quoted in my previous post, which follows:

Yes, I know there some issues with SW3 PWM version when they first launched(Due to micro chip controlling the PWM signals). All seem to working fine now with firmware update. I have a bunch of 140 SW3 PWM for my front in-take(No Radiators).

@Darkwizzie If you attempt to control 6-8 pwm SW3 fans per channel on the AQ6 and you don't use the "Diva Mod" with them, there's a good chance you will run into the PWM issue associated with pwm SW3 fans. Search this thread for _SW3_ if you want to know more and haven't done so already.

As an aside, my suspicions lead me to wonder whether or not BeQuiet, in designing their SW3 fans, didn't account for use of those fans in larger numbers in cases other than their own. The BeQuiet cases that ship with those fans include fan control circuitry that pulls the PWM signal from the motherboard for use with the fans that ship with their Dark Base 900 cases. That circuitry is equipped to handle a limited number of pwm fans (Dark Base 900 Pro pictured below, drawing includes both the Pro and non Pro versions):

*Photo of Dark Base Pro 900 Circuit Board:*



*Excerpt from the Dark Base 900 User Guide:*



Note: at this point in time, what I stated about my suspicions is little more than than speculation. Consider it what some might call "a good guess."


----------



## BoredErica

This is what I am expecting. Now I believe the test here was for one fan and not 6-8 fans tied to a single header, so I don't know what happens there. Both the red and black line in the graph above looks okay. If it were reading red line RPM while operating at black line RPMs that would be annoying.

Currently I'm here with 11 SW3 fans already, so I feel sort of compelled to go all the way to 26 SW3.


----------



## M-Sauce

Mounted my Aquaero 6XT onto my case labs case. The spacing is still a bit off. Was this issue ever officially resolved?

Anyway, I used one of the caselabs drive bay blanks to McGiver myself some mounts. I think it looks better than the stock AQuaComputer mounts which stick out quite a bit. Used some rubber to shimm the mounts inward a bit, but will need a bit more to make the Aquaero sit flush with the front of the case.


----------



## Mega Man

Yea case labs makes a mount for us, see nonconforming 5.25 mount

https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&source=web&rct=j&url=http://www.caselabs-store.com/flex-bay-5-25-device-mount-short-nonconforming/&ved=0ahUKEwjT6s7bk-_TAhWr34MKHZ4wAkMQFggcMAA&usg=AFQjCNH4O28NMuGJTNaxtwi5SLPbLqdtRA&sig2=jDq-lBQtPfZotfdbWGfA2g


----------



## ruffhi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M-Sauce*
> 
> Anyway, I used one of the caselabs drive bay blanks to McGiver myself some mounts. I think it looks better than the stock AQuaComputer mounts which stick out quite a bit. Used some rubber to shimm the mounts inward a bit, but will need a bit more to make the Aquaero sit flush with the front of the case.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


_Wait .. look over there. No way over there_

(while m-Sauce is distracted ... pinches resulting mounts)

I am totally doing this. Great idea.


----------



## iamjanco

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Darkwizzie*
> 
> 
> 
> This is what I am expecting. Now I believe the test here was for one fan and not 6-8 fans tied to a single header, so I don't know what happens there. Both the red and black line in the graph above looks okay. If it were reading red line RPM while operating at black line RPMs that would be annoying.
> 
> Currently I'm here with 11 SW3 fans already, so I feel sort of compelled to go all the way to 26 SW3.


I was in the same boat. Either try to sell the larger number of PWM SW3s that I had and invest in an equivalent number of voltage controlled fans, or use something like the Diva mod to address the issue. The only drawback with the latter is that you have to add a small pullup resistor circuit to the connector of each PWM fan if you want to use PWM SW3s. While adding those ckts to the fan connectors isn't necessarily an overly expensive or extremely time consuming proposition, they can look ugly depending on how and where you add them. Since just about all of the fans will be used with three rads in my case (three channels, if you will), I figure one way to handle the issue is to build little interface boards based on the Diva Mod, and locate them near the fan hubs they'll connect to (or simply hide them somewhere out of view). I might even go as far as etching pcbs for the purpose (which will add to the cost and time factors).

All in all, not necessarily a practical solution, but for me, it's a hobby. The only real thing that bothers me about the entire situation is the fact that BeQuiet doesn't let people know that their PWM fans may not work in all use cases.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iamjanco*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Darkwizzie*
> 
> 
> 
> This is what I am expecting. Now I believe the test here was for one fan and not 6-8 fans tied to a single header, so I don't know what happens there. Both the red and black line in the graph above looks okay. If it were reading red line RPM while operating at black line RPMs that would be annoying.
> 
> Currently I'm here with 11 SW3 fans already, so I feel sort of compelled to go all the way to 26 SW3.
> 
> 
> 
> I was in the same boat. Either try to sell the larger number of PWM SW3s that I had and invest in an equivalent number of voltage controlled fans, or use something like the Diva mod to address the issue. The only drawback with the latter is that you have to add a small pullup resistor circuit to the connector of each PWM fan if you want to use PWM SW3s. While adding those ckts to the fan connectors isn't necessarily an overly expensive or extremely time consuming proposition, they can look ugly depending on how and where you add them. Since just about all of the fans will be used with three rads in my case (three channels, if you will), I figure one way to handle the issue is to build little interface boards based on the Diva Mod, and locate them near the fan hubs they'll connect to (or simply hide them somewhere out of view). I might even go as far as etching pcbs for the purpose (which will add to the cost and time factors).
> 
> All in all, not necessarily a practical solution, but for me, it's a hobby. The only real thing that bothers me about the entire situation is the fact that BeQuiet doesn't let people know that their PWM fans may not work in all use cases.
Click to expand...

You can use 1 Diva Mod at the female end of a splitter, so you can have multiple fans per Diva Mod.

For 6 or 8 fans on a single Diva Mod, drop the pullup value to 1K from the 2.2 to 3.3K for pumps.


----------



## Jubijub

Naive questions on that topic :
- does it affect other fans that the SilentWings 3 ? for instance the Corsair ML series (asking for a friend







)
- if I use the Splitty9, would I still need the Diva mod or does this have nothing to do with that ?


----------



## iamjanco

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> You can use 1 Diva Mod at the female end of a splitter, so you can have multiple fans per Diva Mod.
> 
> For 6 or 8 fans on a single Diva Mod, drop the pullup value to 1K from the 2.2 to 3.3K for pumps.


Thanks for that clarification, Darlene--much appreciated!


----------



## MuxLee

hi ,

got a few problems ...... and need some help

I have a AQ6 xt and 5 lt , when I plug the 5lt into the 12v supply the machine will not shut down just goes into some sort of standby.

how should they / best way to connect them .

and why don't my VC fans show RPM values ? it works fine with the PWM fans

Thanks
Muxlee


----------



## GTXJackBauer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MuxLee*
> 
> and why don't my VC fans show RPM values ? it works fine with the PWM fans


Make sure to switch that AQ fan channel to power control under Fans ---> Advanced Settings.


----------



## MuxLee

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GTXJackBauer*
> 
> Make sure to switch that AQ fan channel to power control under Fans ---> Advanced Settings.


did that still the same and I have used different fans ?


----------



## BoredErica

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iamjanco*
> 
> I was in the same boat. Either try to sell the larger number of PWM SW3s that I had and invest in an equivalent number of voltage controlled fans, or use something like the Diva mod to address the issue. The only drawback with the latter is that you have to add a small pullup resistor circuit to the connector of each PWM fan if you want to use PWM SW3s. While adding those ckts to the fan connectors isn't necessarily an overly expensive or extremely time consuming proposition, they can look ugly depending on how and where you add them. Since just about all of the fans will be used with three rads in my case (three channels, if you will), I figure one way to handle the issue is to build little interface boards based on the Diva Mod, and locate them near the fan hubs they'll connect to (or simply hide them somewhere out of view). I might even go as far as etching pcbs for the purpose (which will add to the cost and time factors).
> 
> All in all, not necessarily a practical solution, but for me, it's a hobby. The only real thing that bothers me about the entire situation is the fact that BeQuiet doesn't let people know that their PWM fans may not work in all use cases.


I have now read the posts that lit up with a thread search for silent wings. I still don't fully understand what all of the problems with running PWM SW3s on Aquaero are.

I know with a single fan we expect the fan speed to be off compared to what it should be for a given PWM signal, and the biggest different is right below 100% PWM signal. But if we look at the low RPMs, it's not really that far off.

1) Will this also cause RPM readings to be off? EG: Aquaero expects RPM to be 1000 with normal PWM behavior so it reads 1000 RPM but it's actually 800 or something?

2) How does this effect manifest when multiple fans are connected to a single header? Does the problem just get way worse to the point where it's unusable? If I plug in 8 fans per header and I get the black curve for each fan I'm perfectly fine with that.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Darkwizzie*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *iamjanco*
> 
> I was in the same boat. Either try to sell the larger number of PWM SW3s that I had and invest in an equivalent number of voltage controlled fans, or use something like the Diva mod to address the issue. The only drawback with the latter is that you have to add a small pullup resistor circuit to the connector of each PWM fan if you want to use PWM SW3s. While adding those ckts to the fan connectors isn't necessarily an overly expensive or extremely time consuming proposition, they can look ugly depending on how and where you add them. Since just about all of the fans will be used with three rads in my case (three channels, if you will), I figure one way to handle the issue is to build little interface boards based on the Diva Mod, and locate them near the fan hubs they'll connect to (or simply hide them somewhere out of view). I might even go as far as etching pcbs for the purpose (which will add to the cost and time factors).
> 
> All in all, not necessarily a practical solution, but for me, it's a hobby. The only real thing that bothers me about the entire situation is the fact that BeQuiet doesn't let people know that their PWM fans may not work in all use cases.
> 
> 
> 
> I have now read the posts that lit up with a thread search for silent wings. I still don't fully understand what all of the problems with running PWM SW3s on Aquaero are.
> 
> I know with a single fan we expect the fan speed to be off compared to what it should be for a given PWM signal, and the biggest different is right below 100% PWM signal. But if we look at the low RPMs, it's not really that far off.
> 
> 1) Will this also cause RPM readings to be off? EG: Aquaero expects RPM to be 1000 with normal PWM behavior so it reads 1000 RPM but it's actually 800 or something?
> 2) How does this effect manifest when multiple fans are connected to a single header? Does the problem just get way worse to the point where it's unusable? If I plug in 8 fans per header and I get the black curve for each fan I'm perfectly fine with that.
Click to expand...

The displayed rpm won't be off, it'll just be impossible to create a decent curve.

When the most usable 35% of a fans rpm range is controlled by 3% of the PWM range, that my friend is called broken . . . as in unusable in a meaningful way to be able to set up a control curve

If you haven't used an Aquaero before, and have the experience of knowing how nice it can be to have fan speed ramp gently based on delta t, then you just don't have high enough expectations.

To be able to exhibit any kind of reasonable control curve, the controlled device has to have a linear response thru a reasonable range of duty cycle.

Darlene


----------



## iamjanco

^ Summed up nicely.


----------



## M-Sauce

Hey guys, what's the best way to set up the Aquaero 6XT? Should I set it up manually through the panel, or through aquasuite and the internal USB?

I've read through some forums about issues with aquasuite not saving the preferences onto the Aquaero after programming. The manual details both methods, as well as the remote, but I'm wondering if there is a best practice to avoid issues.

Also, I plan on using my silverstone hubs that I currently have conncted to my MOBo. I have two, one with 4 corsair ML140 fans, the other with 6. These hubs get power straight from the PSU through SATA power plugs. Any issues plugging in just the control PWM plug from these hubs to the FAN output in the Aquaero without powering the fans from the Aquaero?


----------



## ruffhi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M-Sauce*


Also ... those cable 'clamps' that you have holdering the sleeved wires running up and over in the above pic ... are these them?

Pasow 100 PCS Self Adhesive Car Cable Tie Cable Clips Cable Drop Wire Holder Organizer (139.25.6 MM(Black))


----------



## JasonMorris

Use aquasuite else you will loose your mind.


----------



## M-Sauce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ruffhi*
> 
> Also ... those cable 'clamps' that you have holdering the sleeved wires running up and over in the above pic ... are these them?
> 
> Pasow 100 PCS Self Adhesive Car Cable Tie Cable Clips Cable Drop Wire Holder Organizer (139.25.6 MM(Black))


They look very similar. I got mine from ModDIY. They sell them in different sizes. Those you see are the smallest ones I have, good for single wires.

They come with a 3m double sided tape applied, but it is white colored and kind of sticks out. I bought my own 3m tape that is more rubbery and less foamy, it is also grey in color and blends in much better.


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M-Sauce*
> 
> They look very similar. I got mine from ModDIY. They sell them in different sizes. Those you see are the smallest ones I have, good for single wires.
> 
> They come with a 3m double sided tape applied, but it is white colored and kind of sticks out. I bought my own 3m tape that is more rubbery and less foamy, it is also grey in color and blends in much better.


I have the ones from Moddiy(Performance-pcs also sells them), I cut the double sided tape off from the clips & applied Velcro to them instead. I mainly got mine for routing my Sata cables. There two different types. ATX version (For your ATX cables) Then Smaller edition made for single cables.

Also if you feel like drilling you can use MDPC-X clips. There also a few ways to use MDPC-X clips without drilling holes.

I did some quick drilling & created this for my fan/USB hubs. I may re-do it If I need to. I also have a spare plate if I need to redo the entire thing.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M-Sauce*
> 
> Hey guys, what's the best way to set up the Aquaero 6XT? Should I set it up manually through the panel, or through aquasuite and the internal USB?
> 
> I've read through some forums about issues with aquasuite not saving the preferences onto the Aquaero after programming. The manual details both methods, as well as the remote, but I'm wondering if there is a best practice to avoid issues.
> 
> Also, I plan on using my silverstone hubs that I currently have conncted to my MOBo. I have two, one with 4 corsair ML140 fans, the other with 6. These hubs get power straight from the PSU through SATA power plugs. Any issues plugging in just the control PWM plug from these hubs to the FAN output in the Aquaero without powering the fans from the Aquaero?


I lower the rpm's to all my fans through the panel so I don't have to hear the fans full blast while I'm installing Windows. Then I do everything else through AquaSuite. I never had any issues with the software/hardware saving the settings. Just make sure you save the settings to the hardware (Which some forget to do).


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M-Sauce*
> 
> Hey guys, what's the best way to set up the Aquaero 6XT? Should I set it up manually through the panel, or through aquasuite and the internal USB?
> 
> I've read through some forums about issues with aquasuite not saving the preferences onto the Aquaero after programming. The manual details both methods, as well as the remote, but I'm wondering if there is a best practice to avoid issues.
> 
> Also, I plan on using my silverstone hubs that I currently have conncted to my MOBo. I have two, one with 4 corsair ML140 fans, the other with 6. These hubs get power straight from the PSU through SATA power plugs. Any issues plugging in just the control PWM plug from these hubs to the FAN output in the Aquaero without powering the fans from the Aquaero?


i recommend windows ( aquasuite, ) you can program most everything through the front but it takes a while to get used to it

no you can power *PWM* fans externally ( direct from psu ) np, as long as they share the same ground ( ** only worry about this if you have 2 or more psus, if just one then you dont have to worry about this )

any questions or issues let me know


----------



## GTXJackBauer

I believe you could possibly connect the AQ 6 to a secondary PC or laptop and install the AQ software, adjust your settings and than save it to the device and not have to worry during Window's installation.


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GTXJackBauer*
> 
> I believe you could possibly connect the AQ 6 to a secondary PC or laptop and install the AQ software, adjust your settings and than save it to the device and not have to worry during Window's installation.


You can as i have done this


----------



## zeroibis

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jubijub*
> 
> Naive questions on that topic :
> - does it affect other fans that the SilentWings 3 ? for instance the Corsair ML series (asking for a friend
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )
> - if I use the Splitty9, would I still need the Diva mod or does this have nothing to do with that ?


I have the same question.

I am looking at getting an Aquaero 6 and some Splitty9s for use with the Corsair ML series fans, some channels will have as many as 3-6 fans and some channels will only have a single fan on them. My understanding is that at least in the past you needed to add a resister to the circuit or something like that in order to use the ML fans due to the low draw. I believe this issue was corrected later on but I am not sure.

Is there anything we need to do for ML fans to work with the Aquaero 6?


----------



## iamjanco

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jubijub*
> 
> Naive questions on that topic :
> - does it affect other fans that the SilentWings 3 ? for instance the Corsair ML series (asking for a friend
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )
> - if I use the Splitty9, would I still need the Diva mod or does this have nothing to do with that ?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zeroibis*
> 
> I have the same question.
> 
> I am looking at getting an Aquaero 6 and some Splitty9s for use with the Corsair ML series fans, some channels will have as many as 3-6 fans and some channels will only have a single fan on them. My understanding is that at least in the past you needed to add a resister to the circuit or something like that in order to use the ML fans due to the low draw. I believe this issue was corrected later on but I am not sure.
> 
> Is there anything we need to do for ML fans to work with the Aquaero 6?


I'll chime in here, at least partly: it's my understanding the issue currently only affects BeQuiet SilentWings PWM fans (versions 2 and 3), if you have an AQ6 which is relatively new and includes certain modifications that were performed by Aquacomputer. See *this post to identify whether the resistor modifications are included in the AQ6 you have in your possession*.

If you do have the newer version of the AQ6 that includes those mods, you should be okay using multiple Corsair PWM fans (ML or other). That mod did not address the issue with BeQuiet's PWM fans though, and you will need to use the Diva Mod if using the PWM versions of BeQuiet's SilentWings fans.

I stand ready to be corrected though if anything I said above is incorrect or incomplete.


----------



## zeroibis

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iamjanco*
> 
> I'll chime in here, at least partly: it's my understanding the issue currently only affects BeQuiet SilentWings PWM fans (versions 2 and 3), if you have an AQ6 which is relatively new and includes certain modifications that were performed by Aquacomputer. See *this post to identify whether the resistor modifications are included in the AQ6 you have in your possession*.
> 
> If you do have the newer version of the AQ6 that includes those mods, you should be okay using multiple Corsair PWM fans (ML or other). That mod did not address the issue with BeQuiet's PWM fans though, and you will need to use the Diva Mod if using the PWM versions of BeQuiet's SilentWings fans.
> 
> I stand ready to be corrected though if anything I said above is incorrect or incomplete.


Ok good, this was my understanding. I just wanted some confirmation that I was understanding correctly.

Now to figure out if I can fit an aquainlet on a shoggy sandwich in a S8S case with enough room for a QD on the top... lol

...apparently the answer is no, so decoupling kit it is. Looking forward to finally doing an AQ build!


----------



## Mega Man

the older corsair fans had an issue with multiple being controlled. this was due to a resister on board, that i dont think was fixable.... ( unless you replaced the resistor ) i have not kept up with new corsair fans to know if the same thing exists now. that said the resister has been changed on the aquaero and afaik it now works fine .... unless you have one of the first batches


----------



## BoredErica

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> the older corsair fans had an issue with multiple being controlled. this was due to a resister on board, that i dont think was fixable.... ( unless you replaced the resistor ) i have not kept up with new corsair fans to know if the same thing exists now. that said the resister has been changed on the aquaero and afaik it now works fine .... unless you have one of the first batches


Are we talking the still relatively new Corsair ML fans like ML140?
I think Thermalbench's site still says it's a problem.

Like, SW3 affects high end which is less of a problem compared to a high low end on the RPM spectrum of the Ml140.


----------



## zeroibis

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Darkwizzie*
> 
> Are we talking the still relatively new Corsair ML fans like ML140?
> 
> I think Thermalbench's site still says it's a problem.
> 
> Like, SW3 affects high end which is less of a problem compared to a high low end on the RPM spectrum of the Ml140.


So the ml140 does have problems with the AQ6?


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zeroibis*
> 
> So the ml140 does have problems with the AQ6?


Not that I noticed. I have 16 of them running on one AQ6XT.

I think this is what they were referencing from thermalbench review.
Quote:


> I do know that many have already bought these fans and are using voltage control instead for various reasons. Even some tech reviewers will end up testing these fans on voltage control. Some paying customers mentioned publicly or via private messages that they were not getting the promised RPM control range and it always ended up being the effect of voltage control here. Please note that the advertised RPM range is for PWM control only, and voltage control is not going to do as well:


Quote:


> Edit: July 13, 2016- I noticed a few people misunderstanding what I meant above. The bearing suddenly does not become a sleeve bearing and be prone to issues under voltage control. Sleeve bearings also are not a particular item that goes bad at a particular time but that's a discussion for another time. I am trying to refrain people from using voltage control here as the electromagnetic field generated that helps levitate the bearing will be powered via a constant 12 V when using PWM control. If using voltage control, the strength of said field will change and effect the nature of the fan. Given this is advertised as a PWM fan, I am reviewing it as such and so I have no issues with any potential issues under voltage control. Neither should you. If you use voltage control for whatever reason despite my recommendations, please try to stick to 8-12 V or so.


----------



## iamjanco

*About the Issue with the Corsair ML fans* (dated 06/2014, read through to the end of the page)

*From the same/similar testing Revan654 referenced* (dated 07/2016):
Quote:


> _Another note of importance- users of the SP120 PWM fans may have noticed that there was a control issue wherein more than 3-4 fans on some PWM headers resulted in a shorter range of speed control, especially so on the lower RPM end. I mentioned this in my review of the SP120 Quiet Edition PWM fans and I have some mixed feelings as I report a similar PWM implementation here. Corsair is sticking to one set of PWM specs (Intel PWM specifications rev 1.3) and some other companies to another (this is partly also why the Laing D5 PWM pump has some issues with some motherboard PWM fan headers) and this will not help the consumer much. I have 4 fans here and all 4 fans on the same header took the min RPM from 372 to 455- not bad, but still not the same as a single fan. I can't say what the addition of more fans to the same header will do so please be aware of this. It will affect a very small fraction of customers, but let it not be a surprise. Stick to 2-3 fans per header and you will be better off. Corsair recommends sticking to 1 fan per header._


It's possible more testing might be required based both on what VSG at Thermalbench stated above, as well as what Darlene stated in the content I linked to at the top of this post. That said, if you do run into a problem controlling a larger number of Corsair's PWM fans on the AQ6, I suspect a properly spec'd version of the Diva Adapter might be used as workaround. A few different variables seem to be involved (e.g., the splitter in use and how it handles the tach singles).

Summed up: YMMV based on your setup.

I don't have any Corsair fans myself, but I will be doing testing using PWM SW3s once I'm set up and running and plan on sharing my data here. I will also be using Splitty9s, Poweradjusts, two rads with eight fans each, and one rad with four (560, 480, and a 280), controlled via AquaSuite. My fans are the lower speed PWM SW3s (1,000 RPM), as I'm using HL SR2 MPs.


----------



## ChiTownButcher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iamjanco*
> 
> *About the Issue with the Corsair ML fans* (dated 06/2014, read through to the end of the page)
> 
> *From the same/similar testing Revan654 referenced* (dated 07/2016):
> It's possible more testing might be required based both on what VSG at Thermalbench stated above, as well as what Darlene stated in the content I linked to at the top of this post. That said, if you do run into a problem controlling a larger number of Corsair's PWM fans on the AQ6, I suspect a properly spec'd version of the Diva Adapter might be used as workaround. A few different variables seem to be involved (e.g., the splitter in use and how it handles the tach singles).
> 
> Summed up: YMMV based on your setup.
> 
> I don't have any Corsair fans myself, but I will be doing testing using PWM SW3s once I'm set up and running and plan on sharing my data here. I will also be using Splitty9s, Poweradjusts, two rads with eight fans each, and one rad with four (560, 480, and a 280), controlled via AquaSuite. My fans are the lower speed PWM SW3s (1,000 RPM), as I'm using HL SR2 MPs.


You do realize that the SP120 and the ML120 are NOT the same fan and that the ML120 did not exist in 2014. And Thermal bench is saying that if you voltage control the ML120 (ML= Magnetic Levitation) it causes an issue with the fan clicking because they WERE NOT MENT TO EVER BE VOLTAGE CONTROLED. They are a PWM only fan otherwise the ML bearing wont work the way it was designed. Most other PWM fans can be voltage controlled without issue because they have sleeved bearings or ball bearings.


----------



## iamjanco

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ChiTownButcher*
> 
> You do realize that the SP120 and the ML120 are NOT the same fan and that the ML120 did not exist in 2014. And Thermal bench is saying that if you voltage control the ML120 (ML= Magnetic Levitation) it causes an issue with the fan clicking because they WERE NOT MENT TO EVER BE VOLTAGE CONTROLED. They are a PWM only fan otherwise the ML bearing wont work the way it was designed. Most other PWM fans can be voltage controlled without issue because they have sleeved bearings or ball bearings.


Yes, I do realize the two fans are different, and am aware of their dates of release. I was also not implying the ML120/ML140 should be controlled by anything but PWM, and do understand the nature of their "magnetically levitated" assemblies. I simply quoted what VSG stated to emphasize what he said about his testing of four fans on the same header, as well as his recommendation to "Stick to 2-3 fans per header and you will be better off."

That said, given what VSG stated, I can infer though that more testing might be needed, especially where a larger number of the PWM ML120/ML140s (e.g., 6-8, or more) are to be PWM controlled using the same header (or perhaps channel).

My concern is not really with Corsair's PWM ML fans though (they're all PWM controlled fans as far as I know); it's with BeQuiet's.


----------



## zeroibis

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iamjanco*
> 
> Yes, I do realize the two fans are different, and am aware of their dates of release. I was also not implying the ML120/ML140 should be controlled by anything but PWM, and do understand the nature of their "magnetically levitated" assemblies. I simply quoted what VSG stated to emphasize what he said about his testing of four fans on the same header, as well as his recommendation to "Stick to 2-3 fans per header and you will be better off."
> 
> That said, given what VSG stated, I can infer though that more testing might be needed, especially where a larger number of the PWM ML120/ML140s (e.g., 6-8, or more) are to be PWM controlled using the same header (or perhaps channel).
> 
> My concern is not really with Corsair's PWM ML fans though (they're all PWM controlled fans as far as I know); it's with BeQuiet's.


From what I understand is that he was advising that the SP fans hold to the intel PWM spec which means that the ML fans likely do as well and if your PWM controller does not use the intel spec you may have issues with 4 fans or more. It is also stated that some other devices use another spec that is not the intel spec. The devices using the non intel spec are the odd ones out. This fan using the intel spec should work fine from what I understand in an intel spec PWM controller which I understand that the AQ6 does indeed use. You can also run into issues if you are using a bad PWM slitter (other than only taking the PWN signal from 1 of the PWN fans in the splitter I am not sure what else defines a "good PWM" splitter) but I am sure the splitty 9 is a great splitter and I have not heard of any problems with it.

Therefore I assume based on the above and statements from users with the AQ6 and ML series fans that you can use ML fans on the AQ6 with at least 1-9 per channel without issue.

Now one last question we have been focusing on the AQ6 PWM channels but there is also one included on the Aquastream Ultimate. So the question is are there any limitations to running ML fans off the Aquastream Ultimate PWM port? (AQ6 + Aquastream Ultimate = 5 PWM channels)


----------



## iamjanco

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zeroibis*
> 
> From what I understand is that he was advising that the SP fans hold to the intel PWM spec which means that the ML fans likely do as well and if your PWM controller does not use the intel spec you may have issues with 4 fans or more. It is also stated that some other devices use another spec that is not the intel spec. The devices using the non intel spec are the odd ones out. This fan using the intel spec should work fine from what I understand in an intel spec PWM controller which I understand that the AQ6 does indeed use. You can also run into issues if you are using a bad PWM slitter (other than only taking the PWN signal from 1 of the PWN fans in the splitter I am not sure what else defines a "good PWM" splitter) but I am sure the splitty 9 is a great splitter and I have not heard of any problems with it.
> 
> Therefore I assume based on the above and statements from users with the AQ6 and ML series fans that you can use ML fans on the AQ6 with at least 1-9 per channel without issue.


Certainly makes sense to me, thanks for the additional perspective.
Quote:


> Now one last question we have been focusing on the AQ6 PWM channels but there is also one included on the aquaero ultimate. So the question is are there any limitations to running ML fans off the aquaero ultimate PWM port? (AQ6 + aquaero ultimate = 5 PWM channels)


If you're referring to the Aquastream Ultimate, not sure myself.


----------



## Jubijub

thanks to all for the clarification.

As soon as I receive my case, I'll run some tests and let you know ( I will have 4x120 + 4x140 + 2x140 ML1x0 on 3 channels of a brand new AQ6)
i am also buying a multimeter with duty cycle / freq measurement so I should be able to check a few things that way.


----------



## zeroibis

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iamjanco*
> 
> Certainly makes sense to me, thanks for the additional perspective.
> If you're referring to the Aquastream Ultimate, not sure myself.


Yes Aquastream Ultimate, will edit original post.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jubijub*
> 
> thanks to all for the clarification.
> 
> As soon as I receive my case, I'll run some tests and let you know ( I will have 4x120 + 4x140 + 2x140 ML1x0 on 3 channels of a brand new AQ6)
> i am also buying a multimeter with duty cycle / freq measurement so I should be able to check a few things that way.


Very nice, looking forward to seeing your results!


----------



## Revan654

Finally, The Matte version of the Vision Touch Table top unite have shipped out. For those keeping track, It took five months for me to get ahold of one. ModMyMods got a shipment in last night.



Now I have one Matte version & one Glossy version.


----------



## Jubijub

for those of you making custom cables : any idea about the part number for the AquaComputer Flow sensor ? (the 3 pin connector that looks like a scaled up version of a 3pin fan ?)


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jubijub*
> 
> for those of you making custom cables : any idea about the part number for the AquaComputer Flow sensor ? (the 3 pin connector that looks like a scaled up version of a 3pin fan ?)


Hope this helps
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> The connector type is named "PANCON MAS-CON 156 MLSS" and uses a different distance between the pins.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iamjanco*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> The connector type is named "PANCON MAS-CON 156 MLSS" and uses a different distance between the pins.
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks, Shoggy, that's good to know. Pitch spacing for the *PANCON you pointed* out is 3.96mm, and 2.54mm for your typical 3 and 4 pin fan connectors/headers.
> 
> TE/AMP makes a version of the same header (e.g., *AMP - TE CONNECTIVITY 644752-3 Wire-To-Board Connector, 3.96 mm*, 3 Contacts, Header, MTA-156 Series, Through Hole, 1 Rows), which can be used to *source the mating housings here in the States* as well.
> 
> Folks wanting to do so might want to weed through that linked catalog, as the specific mating parts will be determined based on the combination of a number of factors (e.g., terminals, polarity, and wire gauges you'll be using). An *easier method of making your choice can be found here*.
Click to expand...


----------



## Jubijub

it sure does, thanks Mega man ! (and iamjanco







)


----------



## BoredErica

Still deciding if I want to do custom cables or not. If I go 6W a fan and 24 fans to 4 headers that can be 8 fans for 3 headers (1 radiator per header for neatness, 8 fans per) or 4 headers (6 fans per header). 8 Fans will most likely overload 30W rating. I can do splitter with sata power, or custom cable with molex... or just custom cable but for 6 fans per header.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Darkwizzie*
> 
> Still deciding if I want to do custom cables or not. If I go 6W a fan and 24 fans to 4 headers that can be 8 fans for 3 headers (1 radiator per header for neatness, 8 fans per) or 4 headers (6 fans per header). 8 Fans will most likely overload 30W rating. I can do splitter with sata power, or custom cable with molex4 pin amp Mate N Lok ... or just custom cable but for 6 fans per header.


why can you only go 6 fans with custom wiring, the point of custom is .............. custom ...

also fixed, molex = company, not connector

amp= company, 4 pin Mate N Lok = connector


----------



## BoredErica

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> why can you only go 6 fans with custom wiring, the point of custom is .............. custom ...
> 
> also fixed, molex = company, not connector
> 
> amp= company, 4 pin Mate N Lok = connector


6*8 = 48watts, Aquaero is 30w per channel, there needs to be PSU powering the fans at that rate.


----------



## Mega Man

again custom, you can make 3 fans goto the aq, and 3 fans 1 power connector 3 fans another, and 12 fans a completely different one, all going to 1 ch on the aquaero, assuming pwm control


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ChiTownButcher*
> 
> You do realize that the SP120 and the ML120 are NOT the same fan and that the ML120 did not exist in 2014. And Thermal bench is saying that if you voltage control the ML120 (ML= Magnetic Levitation) it causes an issue with the fan clicking because they WERE NOT MENT TO EVER BE VOLTAGE CONTROLED. They are a PWM only fan otherwise the ML bearing wont work the way it was designed. Most other PWM fans can be voltage controlled without issue because they have sleeved bearings or ball bearings.


Sorry people but bearings work the same be it pmw or voltage control and i di not believe vsg said this!!!!


----------



## ChiTownButcher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> Sorry people but bearings work the same be it pmw or voltage control and i di not believe vsg said this!!!!


A normal bearing yes but the ML fans don't use a normal bearing. The ML in operation floats on a air cushion If the fan is not run at 12v PWM it makes a clicking noise as a result


----------



## ChiTownButcher

From Thermalbench review...
"The fan hubs are relatively big at 1.7″ on the front and 1.77″ on the back, and all that space is needed to fit that MagLev bearing/motor assembly. The actual bearing used is a sleeve bearing, however when powered on it does not matter as the impeller is levitating above and not contacting anything but air"
http://thermalbench.com/2016/07/12/corsair-ml120-pro-120-mm-fan/2/


----------



## iamjanco

*ML Series Advertorial*: Learn more about the technology behind Corsair ML fans. (click on "Downloads" to access the pdf download from Corsair site)

To download the pdf directly, *click here*.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *ChiTownButcher*
> 
> You do realize that the SP120 and the ML120 are NOT the same fan and that the ML120 did not exist in 2014. And Thermal bench is saying that if you voltage control the ML120 (ML= Magnetic Levitation) it causes an issue with the fan clicking because they WERE NOT MENT TO EVER BE VOLTAGE CONTROLED. They are a PWM only fan otherwise the ML bearing wont work the way it was designed. Most other PWM fans can be voltage controlled without issue because they have sleeved bearings or ball bearings.
> 
> 
> 
> Sorry people but bearings work the same be it pmw or voltage control and i di not believe vsg said this!!!!
Click to expand...

when the bearing uses a electromagnet .... it does


----------



## BoredErica

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> again custom, you can make 3 fans goto the aq, and 3 fans 1 power connector 3 fans another, and 12 fans a completely different one, all going to 1 ch on the aquaero, assuming pwm control


Doesn't the PWM signal degrade when split among too many fans?


----------



## DirtyBear

Hi guys

Is it possible to use 2x aquaero 6XT with one system ?


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Darkwizzie*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> again custom, you can make 3 fans goto the aq, and 3 fans 1 power connector 3 fans another, and 12 fans a completely different one, all going to 1 ch on the aquaero, assuming pwm control
> 
> 
> 
> *Doesn't the PWM signal degrade when split among too many fans?
> *
Click to expand...

While this seems to be rather commonly believed, it isn't however, how PWM fan control works.

There is not a "signal" that's sent out from the controller at all.

All the controller actually does to control a PWM device, is to connect the PWM wire to ground for some percentage of each 40 microsecond interval.

Each PWM controlled device, internally connects the PWM line to +5V thru a resistor, usually in the lower K ohms range, say between 1K and 10K.

The speed control circuitry in the device relies on what it "sees" at that juncture to determine the speed.

If it sees 0V, that is while the controller has that wire connected to ground, it turns off completely, and no power goes to the motor.

If it sees 5V, that is while the controller is not connecting the PWM wire to ground, (or the PWM wire is just not connected to anything) it puts 12V power to the motor.

Thus ultimately, the motor gets full 12V power for a portion, from 0% to 100%, of each 40 microsecond interval, which is what controls its RPM.

Since each PWM device essentially sources the 5V to be controlled, it doesn't make any sense to say that there's a signal to be split up or spread out.

Electrically, when you add more fans, you are essentially putting each one's resistor to the 5V source in parallel, which then lowers the aggregate resistance considerably.

If we had 10 fans, and each had a 10K resistor, the actual effective resistance from the 5V source to the controller would be 1K.

Most controllers have protective resistors in series with the mosfet that pulls the PWM line to ground, so that excessive currents don't damage the mosfet.

The lower the aggregate resistance becomes as fans are added, the more voltage is dropped across the protective resistor, as it forms a voltage divider.

The more the voltage rises across the protective resistor, the higher it is on the PWM line, (and hence the control circuitry), when it's supposed to be 0V, (grounded).

When it rises above a couple tenths of a volt or so, then the control circuitry doesn't completely turn off the 12V power to the motor, and as that becomes 3 or 4 tenths, you progressively loose more and more ability to control the lower speed portion of the fans normal range.

That was basically the issue with the Corsair SP fans, the internal pullup was too strong.

The Silent Wings, on the other hand, have a pullup that's too weak, and work better when there's an additional pullup in parallel to help it.


----------



## FlyInfinity

I really wish I knew about this compatibility issue before purchasing fans, I have an A6 and SW3 PWM's on a splitty and Im beyond the return window.

Does the diva mod work on a splitty? The pictures I saw show the mod is done on a cable with pins 1-2 disconnected which assumes the end device (fan/pump) is powered by other means. I want to do the mod on the cable that connects the A6 to splitty. Apologies if this has been covered, I searched but got lost in all of the results.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FlyInfinity*
> 
> I really wish I knew about this compatibility issue before purchasing fans, I have an A6 and SW3 PWM's on a splitty and Im beyond the return window.
> 
> Does the diva mod work on a splitty? The pictures I saw show the mod is done on a cable with pins 1-2 disconnected which assumes the end device (fan/pump) is powered by other means. *I want to do the mod on the cable that connects the A6 to splitty*. Apologies if this has been covered, I searched but got lost in all of the results.


You could do that just fine . . . .

Just be sure not to use that cable with the mod as an Aquabus cable.

Since the mod was created to use the A6 with PWM D5's, which all have a molex for the power wires as standard, it's not likely you'll find pics of it on a cable with all 4 wires.

You'd just have to use new ends for the wires with the extra components soldered in along with all the wires.

It really wouldn't make any difference which end you did it to, it's probably just easier to do it at the A6 end, so you could pretty much follow the pictures and not get anything backwards.


----------



## FlyInfinity

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> You could do that just fine . . . .
> 
> Just be sure not to use that cable with the mod as an Aquabus cable.


Just to be clear, I can do the mod on the cable that connects the A6 to splitty with all 4 of the original wires/pins in place? Thats where I was getting lost since the pics show pins 1-2 being disconnected. All of my fans are getting their power from the splitty.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FlyInfinity*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> You could do that just fine . . . .
> 
> Just be sure not to use that cable with the mod as an Aquabus cable.
> 
> 
> 
> Just to be clear, I can do the mod on the cable that connects the A6 to splitty with all 4 of the original wires/pins in place? Thats where I was getting lost since the pics show pins 1-2 being disconnected. All of my fans are getting their power from the splitty.
Click to expand...

Yep, no problem . . .

The mod does not effect the gnd and 12V at pins 1 and 2, it's just that since it was originally for pumps that already powered from a Molex, there was no reason to have any wires from pins 1 & 2


----------



## FlyInfinity

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Yep, no problem . . .
> 
> The mod does not effect the gnd and 12V at pins 1 and 2, it's just that since it was originally for pumps that already powered from a Molex, there was no reason to have any wires from pins 1 & 2


Thank you! One last question, what resistor value should I use? I saw that different resistor values were recommended depending on the number of pumps being controlled on the channel. Right now the splitty only has 4 140mm SW3's connected to it but could go up to 6-8 in the future.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FlyInfinity*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Yep, no problem . . .
> 
> The mod does not effect the gnd and 12V at pins 1 and 2, it's just that since it was originally for pumps that already powered from a Molex, there was no reason to have any wires from pins 1 & 2
> 
> 
> 
> Thank you! One last question, *what resistor value should I use?* I saw that different resistor values were recommended depending on the number of pumps being controlled on the channel. Right now the splitty only has 4 140mm SW3's connected to it but could go up to 6-8 in the future.
Click to expand...

That's the big question!

I don't have any SW fans, and can't really justify spending money to buy any for testing, since I wouldn't ever actually use them.

I might be curious enough to maybe buy 1, with the PPCs Memorial day sale, but that wouldn't be a lot of help coming up with a solid baseline, or definitive answer for multiple fan setups.

I'd maybe try several different values and see if there's any real difference in how the PWM % versus RPM curve looks with each.

Start with 4.7K and try the next lower standard values, 3.3K, 2.2K and finally 1K.

The internal pullup is soooo hi in the SW's, it probably won't actually make any difference how many you have connected to your splitter, the results will probably not vary by much.

If anyone who has a bunch of them wants to send them to me for testing, I will pay the return shipping . . . I'd need them for a week or two.


----------



## BoredErica

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> While this seems to be rather commonly believed, it isn't however, how PWM fan control works.
> 
> There is not a "signal" that's sent out from the controller at all.
> 
> All the controller actually does to control a PWM device, is to connect the PWM wire to ground for some percentage of each 40 microsecond interval.
> 
> Each PWM controlled device, internally connects the PWM line to +5V thru a resistor, usually in the lower K ohms range, say between 1K and 10K.
> 
> The speed control circuitry in the device relies on what it "sees" at that juncture to determine the speed.
> 
> If it sees 0V, that is while the controller has that wire connected to ground, it turns off completely, and no power goes to the motor.
> 
> If it sees 5V, that is while the controller is not connecting the PWM wire to ground, (or the PWM wire is just not connected to anything) it puts 12V power to the motor.
> 
> Thus ultimately, the motor gets full 12V power for a portion, from 0% to 100%, of each 40 microsecond interval, which is what controls its RPM.
> 
> Since each PWM device essentially sources the 5V to be controlled, it doesn't make any sense to say that there's a signal to be split up or spread out.
> 
> Electrically, when you add more fans, you are essentially putting each one's resistor to the 5V source in parallel, which then lowers the aggregate resistance considerably.
> 
> If we had 10 fans, and each had a 10K resistor, the actual effective resistance from the 5V source to the controller would be 1K.
> 
> Most controllers have protective resistors in series with the mosfet that pulls the PWM line to ground, so that excessive currents don't damage the mosfet.
> 
> The lower the aggregate resistance becomes as fans are added, the more voltage is dropped across the protective resistor, as it forms a voltage divider.
> 
> The more the voltage rises across the protective resistor, the higher it is on the PWM line, (and hence the control circuitry), when it's supposed to be 0V, (grounded).
> 
> When it rises above a couple tenths of a volt or so, then the control circuitry doesn't completely turn off the 12V power to the motor, and as that becomes 3 or 4 tenths, you progressively loose more and more ability to control the lower speed portion of the fans normal range.
> 
> That was basically the issue with the Corsair SP fans, the internal pullup was too strong.
> 
> The Silent Wings, on the other hand, have a pullup that's too weak, and work better when there's an additional pullup in parallel to help it.


Hmm... If I am understanding this correctly...

Does this mean simply by connecting a ton of SW3 to a single header the lower end control decreases and higher end control increases? Wouldn't that mean I can fix the SW3 weak pullup by chaining more fans to a header?


----------



## iamjanco

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Darkwizzie*
> 
> Hmm... If I am understanding this correctly...
> Does this mean simply by connecting a ton of SW3 to a single header the lower end control decreases and higher end control increases? Wouldn't that mean I can fix the SW3 weak pullup by chaining more fans to a header?


No, because the PWM circuitry of the fans are essentially all connected in parallel (in contrast to series) to that single header on the controller (by way of an e.g., splitty9) and treated as a single value in terms of resistance, where total resistance is calculated using the following equation:

1/Rtotal = 1/R1 + 1/R2 + 1/R3 + ...1/Rn

Adding more fans to the mix just reduces the total resistance seen at the header on the controller.

The content at the following link is relatively easy to digest and helps clarify what's said above.

*Total Resistance in a Parallel Circuit* (see item no. 4)

FWIW, in case you're curious about resistance in series circuits, you can also have a look at *Total Resistance in a Series Circuit* (see item no. 2)


----------



## iamjanco

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> If anyone who has a bunch of them wants to send them to me for testing, I will pay the return shipping . . . I'd need them for a week or two.


It'll be a while before I'm ready to do testing of my own and I'm not in that much of a hurry that I couldn't loan you six or eight PWM SW3s for a week or two. If you like, I could also send you a spare fan interface card from a Dark Base 900 Pro. Only mention that because at some point, I suspect that the BeQuiet fans were developed specifically for use with that or a similar card (they use a simpler circuit card in their non-pro cases) in their cases and it's possible that internal pullup values in the fans were calculated based on that or a similar use case (though I'd find it rather interesting that use outside of their cases wasn't added to the equation).

This is what I'm referring to:


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iamjanco*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> If anyone who has a bunch of them wants to send them to me for testing, I will pay the return shipping . . . I'd need them for a week or two.
> 
> 
> 
> It'll be a while before I'm ready to do testing of my own and I'm not in that much of a hurry that I couldn't loan you six or eight PWM SW3s for a week or two. If you like, I could also send you a spare fan interface card from a Dark Base 900 Pro. Only mention that because at some point, I suspect that the BeQuiet fans were developed specifically for use with that or a similar card (they use a simpler circuit card in their non-pro cases) in their cases and it's possible that internal pullup values in the fans were calculated based on that or a similar use case (though I'd find it rather interesting that use outside of their cases wasn't added to the equation).
> 
> This is what I'm referring to:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
Click to expand...

That would be quite awesome . . . .

We've gotten some info regarding the unusually high pullup resistance from Shoggy, but they're still too new, or infrequently used with Aquaeros, to have had much of any feedback here as to how they work with the Diva Mod, or in larger numbers.

VSG has one of my Diva 'Dapters, and reported that they work fine with that, but that's more than all but a very few could make for themselves.

It would be nice to actually get some hard data, so we can say definitively how the best way to use the SW3's is. . . . or possibly, that it's just not all that do-able . . .

I'll shoot you a PM later today.

Darlene


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DirtyBear*
> 
> Hi guys
> 
> Is it possible to use 2x aquaero 6XT with one system ?


Just to follow up. Yes,

You can either use then separately as 2 independent devices

Or you can the the screen off one and use it as a slave. (8 more temps sensors (iirc ) and 4 more fans


----------



## BoredErica

So SW3 has a rating of 0.14A per fan and 0.5A per fan as safety current. So with 8 fans per header that makes for a spike of 48w with fan startup. I think it's likely it will be okay, but I figured it's better to double check in here.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Darkwizzie*
> 
> So SW3 has a rating of 0.14A per fan and 0.5A per fan as safety current. So with 8 fans per header that makes for a spike of 48w with fan startup. I think it's likely it will be okay, but I figured it's better to double check in here.


Yea,

You'll be good.

Shoggy says that the A6 handles start-up currnets just fine.


----------



## BoredErica

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Yea,
> 
> You'll be good.
> 
> Shoggy says that the A6 handles start-up currnets just fine.


Thank you.


----------



## DirtyBear

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> Just to follow up. Yes,
> 
> You can either use then separately as 2 independent devices
> 
> Or you can the the screen off one and use it as a slave. (8 more temps sensors (iirc ) and 4 more fans


Thank you


----------



## iamjanco

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *galletabah*
> 
> creators update **** my aquasuite
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And now I cant start it


See this: *General information for Windows 10 Creators Update and possible aquasuite crash*


----------



## wmandra

Quick question... does anyone have any suggestions for dimming the LEDs on the Poweradjust modules? They are ridiculously bright and I'd rather not remove them completely.


----------



## Master Chicken

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wmandra*
> 
> Quick question... does anyone have any suggestions for dimming the LEDs on the Poweradjust modules? They are ridiculously bright and I'd rather not remove them completely.


You would have to increase the current limiting resistor value that defines the current through the LED. It looks like they are 0603 size so you would have to have the tools and skills necessary to replace them. There's only one per board.

It's very common to set LED current for LEDs of that size (looks like 0603 under a light pipe) to 20ma. You could lower it's brightness by running it at 10ma for example ... or lower.

In looking at a picture of a PA3, the LED may be switched through a small SOT-23 transistor nearby. If that were driven by the MCU on the board, it would be possible to use a PWM signal from the MCU to control it's brightness but it's unlikely that AC included that functionality.

From a quick look at the manual, they are not using the +5 from the Mate-N-Lok power input so they may be running the LED from the 12V input unless they are making another voltage somewhere else on the board.

Most blue LEDs in 0603 running at 20ma have a 3.3 volt drop. There is also some negligible drop Vce from the controlling transistor which we will disregard. If the LED is running at 20ma and dropping 3.3V then the balance has to be dropped across the current limit resistor. So 12V - 3.3V = 8.7V. That 8.7V divided by 20ma results in a resistance required of 435 ohms. They may have used a 432 ohm resistor from the E96 range but it's more likely they used 470 ohm from the E12 range. Which would lower the current slightly through the LED ... to about 19ma.

If you were to attempt to run the LED at 10ma for example, you'd need to approximate it's drop at that current. For an 0603 blue at 10ma that would put the drop at 3.0 volts. So 12V - 3.0V is now 9V that needs to be dropped across the resistor. That 9V divided by your new 10ma would require a 900 ohm resistor. The closest common value is actually 910 ohms.

This is, of course, all speculative because I only have a picture of a PA3 to work from and I'm just assuming it's using a blue LED from some other pictures I've found. You'll have to actually find and measure the drop and value for the LED current limiting resistor on your unit while it's powered. For all I know, they may already be running the LED at 10ma and so then you'd have to recalculate for 5ma if you wanted it dimmer still.

Just throwing it out there.

0603 Blue LED datasheet

Page 3 has the brightness and current / voltage graphs that you need.


----------



## iamjanco

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iamjanco*
> 
> It'll be a while before I'm ready to do testing of my own and I'm not in that much of a hurry that I couldn't loan you six or eight PWM SW3s for a week or two. If you like, I could also send you a spare fan interface card from a Dark Base 900 Pro. Only mention that because at some point, I suspect that the BeQuiet fans were developed specifically for use with that or a similar card (they use a simpler circuit card in their non-pro cases) in their cases and it's possible that internal pullup values in the fans were calculated based on that or a similar use case (though I'd find it rather interesting that use outside of their cases wasn't added to the equation).
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> This is what I'm referring to:


8x 140mm SW3 pwm fans (1,000rpm) are now on their way to Darlene for testing purposes.


----------



## huckincharlie

New Farbwerk and problem: Connection to license server failed


----------



## jura11

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *huckincharlie*
> 
> New Farbwerk and problem: Connection to license server failed


Looks like Aquacomputer.de is down

http://www.websitedown.info/aquacomputer.de

Just installed MPS 400 and need as well to licence on that

Hope this helps

Thanks, Jura


----------



## huckincharlie

Thx for info.


----------



## stefxyz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *galletabah*
> 
> creators update **** my aquasuite
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And now I cant start it


Had the same issue. I solved it by changing detection level to none in the Riva Tuner Statistics Server from the MSI Afterburner tool.


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jura11*
> 
> Looks like Aquacomputer.de is down
> 
> http://www.websitedown.info/aquacomputer.de
> 
> Just installed MPS 400 and need as well to licence on that
> 
> Hope this helps
> 
> Thanks, Jura


I thought it was my Comcast connection not being able to connect to oversea sites again. Atlease I know I'm not the only one having issues.


----------



## jura11

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> I thought it was my Comcast connection not being able to connect to oversea sites again. Atlease I know I'm not the only one having issues.


Hi there

I thought so too my internet connection is playing up

But seems their server is down for quite while

Thanks, Jura


----------



## GTXJackBauer

I can't access their forums so yes, it looks like their servers are down.


----------



## BoredErica

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iamjanco*
> 
> 8x 140mm SW3 pwm fans (1,000rpm) are now on their way to Darlene for testing purposes.


The stock for Be quiet fans is terra-bad, so I can wait a little bit. They are already like 2 weeks late, what is another 2? I can wait to see if any interesting results show.


----------



## huckincharlie

Servers are still down







and still can't use new farbwerk.


----------



## Mega Man

That sucks. @Shoggy this does bring up an issue. Maybe make it so you can install aqua suite offline.


----------



## iamjanco

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> That sucks. @Shoggy this does bring up an issue. Maybe make it so you can install aqua suite offline.


If shoggy is getting his notifications by way of an email address using the same domain (aquacomputer.de), you may not be able to get a hold of him using OCN notifications. That is, unless he views this thread directly somehow.

I did what's called a whois and a trace route on aquacomputer.de, which helped determine they're using hosting services provided by Hetzner Online GmbH; then checked out *Hetzner's server status page* which only reflects scheduled maintenance work which shouldn't impact any of their customers for more than a short period of time. Note that I said "shouldn't." That doesn't mean it didn't. Some web hosts are notorious for not admitting they've got ongoing issues.

Could also be that AC is deployed using a hosting plan which allows them to manage their own LAMP installation, developed an issue, and just haven't got all the bugs sorted out yet. Hard to say without hearing from them directly, but the length of downtime is a bit odd. Still, definitely not best to speculate more than I already have until more is learned.

Typically I'd suggest one of the German board members perhaps giving them a call to make sure they're okay, but it's Saturday there now. If it was during their regular business hours I would have Skyped them.


----------



## Mega Man

I don't expect an answer immediately, but possibly in a future release.


----------



## Jubijub

To be clear : does it affect first time use of any product only, or does this impact you every time you need to reinstall AquaSuite ?

If the latter, this is not good : that means that if AQ stops maintaining its server at some point in the future, then the whole things become paper weight...


----------



## huckincharlie

I think when you reinstall aquasuite, installer is cennecting to internet to check license the same way as it's connectong when you want to use new product. Like me now, I can't use new product for two days because aquasuite can't check license for new product. That's not the best solution with this checking license.


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jubijub*
> 
> To be clear : does it affect first time use of any product only, or does this impact you every time you need to reinstall AquaSuite ?
> 
> If the latter, this is not good : that means that if AQ stops maintaining its server at some point in the future, then the whole things become paper weight...


Anytime you need to install the software it requires you to connect to the server. The whole license is a one time thing unless your coming up on expired date.

If I recall correctly before the whole licenses were created, the install file contained everything & didn't require you to connect to any server.

Not sure whats going on with there server. It could be out of there hands & issue is with the isp that host the site.


----------



## huckincharlie

Server is down from 20.05 https://www.computerbase.de/forum/showthread.php?t=1685270


----------



## GTXJackBauer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *huckincharlie*
> 
> Server is down from 20.05 https://www.computerbase.de/forum/showthread.php?t=1685270


Yup. I'm not sure what's going on as it's been down for a long time, especially their retail site.


----------



## Jubijub

Caselabs, now Aquacomputer...tough times for small OC shops


----------



## GTXJackBauer

I hope this isn't the case of that ransomware.


----------



## jura11

I'm pretty sure their servers has been up before the weekend

But hopefully we will know more tomorrow or when AQ representative will let us know

Hope this helps

Thanks, Jura


----------



## Costas

Being the weekend - they may not have the resources available to restore the site...?


----------



## ttnuagmada

Im wanting to go with SW3's, and i know the PWM fans have trouble, and that there are mods I can do to get it to work right, but is there any reason to go with the PWM version over the regular version with the high granularity voltage control that the Aquaero has?


----------



## Mega Man

Not that i know if, with the issues that fan has with pwm control. Usually omw control offers more speed control. But i dare say that in that fans case booths control may be the way to go, also untested information from someone on the outside looking in (I don't have the fans)


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iamjanco*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *iamjanco*
> 
> It'll be a while before I'm ready to do testing of my own and I'm not in that much of a hurry that I couldn't loan you six or eight PWM SW3s for a week or two. If you like, I could also send you a spare fan interface card from a Dark Base 900 Pro. Only mention that because at some point, I suspect that the BeQuiet fans were developed specifically for use with that or a similar card (they use a simpler circuit card in their non-pro cases) in their cases and it's possible that internal pullup values in the fans were calculated based on that or a similar use case (though I'd find it rather interesting that use outside of their cases wasn't added to the equation).
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> This is what I'm referring to:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *8x 140mm SW3 pwm fans (1,000rpm) are now on their way to Darlene for testing purposes*.
Click to expand...

With several pages of discussion on the AC server issues, this may have gotten lost . . . .

If you're thinking about SW3 fans, if you can wait a couple weeks, . .

I should have some definitive results as to whether there's a way to make them work acceptably, (Diva Mod or something similar) and if so, how many you can run from any one channel.

The plan is to make sure its something simple enough that most anyone could make it

Stay tuned,

Darlene


----------



## iamjanco

^+1, agreed. Btw, the Aquacomputer web site is back up.


----------



## jura11

Hi guys

Can someone help me to calibrate Aquacomputer MPS400 sensor ?

This is reading when my pump is running at 1% or 1216RPM

There is 25 current unscaled value which I don't understand what this does mean,when I save that I'm getting 0 flow



EK DDC is plugged on channel 4



Thanks in advance,Jura


----------



## lovan6

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jura11*
> 
> Hi guys
> 
> Can someone help me to calibrate Aquacomputer MPS400 sensor ?
> 
> This is reading when my pump is running at 1% or 1216RPM
> 
> There is 25 current unscaled value which I don't understand what this does mean,when I save that I'm getting 0 flow
> 
> 
> 
> EK DDC is plugged on channel 4
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks in advance,Jura


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jura11*
> 
> Hi guys
> 
> Can someone help me to calibrate Aquacomputer MPS400 sensor ?
> 
> On DDC Fan Control:
> 
> Set minimum voltage to 6 volts
> Check "Hold Minimum Power"
> Advance Settings: Min RPM 1200, Max RPM 4500
> 
> You can use Preset Controller set at 70% or Curve controller.
> 
> Thanks in advance,Jura


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jura11*
> 
> Hi guys
> 
> Can someone help me to calibrate Aquacomputer MPS400 sensor ?
> 
> This is reading when my pump is running at 1% or 1216RPM
> 
> There is 25 current unscaled value which I don't understand what this does mean,when I save that I'm getting 0 flow
> 
> 
> 
> EK DDC is plugged on channel 4
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks in advance,Jura


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jura11*
> 
> Hi guys
> 
> Can someone help me to calibrate Aquacomputer MPS400 sensor ?
> 
> This is reading when my pump is running at 1% or 1216RPM
> 
> There is 25 current unscaled value which I don't understand what this does mean,when I save that I'm getting 0 flow
> 
> 
> 
> EK DDC is plugged on channel 4
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks in advance,Jura


On DDC Fan Control:

Set minimum voltage to 6 volts
Check "Hold Minimum Power"
Advance Settings: Min RPM 1200, Max RPM 4500

You can use Preset Controller set at 70% or Curve controller.


----------



## jura11

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lovan6*
> 
> On DDC Fan Control:
> 
> Set minimum voltage to 6 volts
> Check "Hold Minimum Power"
> Advance Settings: Min RPM 1200, Max RPM 4500
> 
> You can use Preset Controller set at 70% or Curve controller.


Hi there

Not sure what you mean there,but this didn't changed anything MPS400 still reads 0.0 l/m









Not sure what I'm doing wrong



Thanks,Jura


----------



## Warface-NL

So i did a long brake for my new build. I am building my first custom watercooling build, with my Corsair 900D case. Now i need some information for my aquacomputer stuf, i know it costs a lot of money, but it will be worth it







.

*2x* Aqua-Computer Flow sensor high flow USB G1/4
*2x* Aqua-Computer D5 pump mechnics with USB- and aquabus interface
*1x* Aqua-Computer aquaero 6 LT USB fan controller
*1x* Passive heat sink
and 2x the AC temp sensor inline

Would this work together?

Why some items 2x? because i am doing a dual loop.
And do i need to attach the temp sensor to the pump or flow sensor, or controller?


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jura11*
> 
> Hi guys
> 
> Can someone help me to calibrate Aquacomputer MPS400 sensor ?
> 
> This is reading when my pump is running at 1% or 1216RPM
> 
> There is 25 current unscaled value which I don't understand what this does mean,when I save that I'm getting 0 flow
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> EK DDC is plugged on channel 4
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks in advance,Jura


mine leaked so i cant ... sorry

iirc you have to stop your pump and wait for flow to reach 0 ( does not take long and with no load on cpu you can do this easily )

and set it to zero. but i dont remember ho/w where
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Warface-NL*
> 
> So i did a long brake for my new build. I am building my first custom watercooling build, with my Corsair 900D case. Now i need some information for my aquacomputer stuf, i know it costs a lot of money, but it will be worth it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> 
> *2x* Aqua-Computer Flow sensor high flow USB G1/4
> *2x* Aqua-Computer D5 pump mechnics with USB- and aquabus interface
> *1x* Aqua-Computer aquaero 6 LT USB fan controller
> *1x* Passive heat sink
> and 2x the AC temp sensor inline
> 
> Would this work together?
> 
> Why some items 2x? because i am doing a dual loop.
> And do i need to attach the temp sensor to the pump or flow sensor, or controller?


yes, are you doing 2 loops ? if not the second flow sensor is wasted monies. fyi.

the heatsink while nice ( and i always buy ) is not needed anymore fyi with the aq6 !


----------



## Ashcroft

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jura11*
> 
> Hi guys
> 
> Can someone help me to calibrate Aquacomputer MPS400 sensor ?
> 
> This is reading when my pump is running at 1% or 1216RPM
> 
> There is 25 current unscaled value which I don't understand what this does mean,when I save that I'm getting 0 flow
> 
> Thanks in advance,Jura


Your current unscaled value is too low to show a reading.
With the pump turned off or not running hit the set zero flow button. It should set zero itself but it can't hurt to do it anyway.
Then set pump to Max, select the right model sensor and 10mm tubing in the load flew calibration boxes and hit import calibration.

Edit: Looking at the pics from your original post the meter is already calibrated just fine. The unscaled value of 25 shows a flow rate of 90L/h
The controls for your pump have the min set to zero and the max to 1% so the pump can't change speed.

In your second pic you have the auto flow zero unchecked. You should keep it checked.


----------



## jura11

Hi guys

Thanks for replies
As first I made mistake with installing the MPS 400 I fitted/installed like this pump OUT > OUT of MPS > IN of MPS >bottom radiator and due this I've such erratic readings and no flow readings and MPS 400 should be installed like this pump OUT > IN of MPS > OUT of MPS >bottom radiator

Reinstalled last night MPS 400 and finally getting readings and everything is working like should

Getting flow around 280-294LPH with pump running at 100% (4.5k RPM),with pump running at 40% (2700RPM) I'm getting 160LPH

Thanks again guys for replies and help and PM's

Thanks, Jura


----------



## Ashcroft

You can find calibrations for different sized tube and fittings in Fast Fates Community testing thread. The standard calibration was way off for me using 10mm hard tube for example.

http://www.overclock.net/t/1501978/ocn-community-water-cooling-test-thread

eg.
http://www.overclock.net/t/1501978/ocn-community-water-cooling-test-thread/150#post_22685682

@ITDiva It might be useful to provide a link to the MPS calibration stuff on the links page of this thread?


----------



## jura11

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ashcroft*
> 
> You can find calibrations for different sized tube and fittings in Fast Fates Community testing thread. The standard calibration was way off for me using 10mm hard tube for example.


Thanks there will have look on this, but have again problems with reading with MPS400,now reads 399LPH

I just can't believe worked through the 2 days and now is defaulting to 399LPH

Thanks, Jura


----------



## jura11

Is this sensor MPS 400 OK with pastel fluids?

Thanks, Jura


----------



## Ashcroft

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jura11*
> 
> Is this sensor MPS 400 OK with pastel fluids?
> 
> Thanks, Jura


Possibly not, because it relies on very small holes leading to the sensor chip that could maybe be blocked by the nano particles. I have never used pastel fluids though and not heard of anyone mentioning problems.


----------



## jura11

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ashcroft*
> 
> Possibly not, because it relies on very small holes leading to the sensor chip that could maybe be blocked by the nano particles. I have never used pastel fluids though and not heard of anyone mentioning problems.


If its not compatible with pastel fluids then they should put that on their website or on actual product for people like me who use Pastel fluids

I will ask on their forum if this can cause those issues or problems but if yes then I'm not sure

Thanks, Jura


----------



## Ashcroft

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jura11*
> 
> If its not compatible with pastel fluids then they should put that on their website or on actual product for people like me who use Pastel fluids
> 
> I will ask on their forum if this can cause those issues or problems but if yes then I'm not sure
> 
> Thanks, Jura


I'm not at all saying that is the cause of the problem. Just a guess that it could be possible, but, I would have expected to have heard about it before now as they have both been around for long enough that lots of people would have combined the two by now.

Can you put up some screen shots of the problem you are having now?


----------



## jura11

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ashcroft*
> 
> I'm not at all saying that is the problem.
> 
> Can you put up some screen shots of the problem you are having now?


Hi there

Will put pictures in few minutes and looks like these sensors are not compatible with the pastel fluids and will be tearing down loop and will be using distilled water and biocide for now and dye

Thanks, Jura


----------



## jura11

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ashcroft*
> 
> I'm not at all saying that is the cause of the problem. Just a guess that it could be possible, but, I would have expected to have heard about it before now as they have both been around for long enough that lots of people would have combined the two by now.
> 
> Can you put up some screen shots of the problem you are having now?


Hi there

Here are screenshots



Pump is running at lowest possible speed but still flow sensor reading 399 L/H



And MPS tab in Aquasuite



and MPS log



But looks like MPS400 or any of their sensor shouldn't be used with pastel fluids,wish I know that









Thanks,Jura


----------



## Ashcroft

There is something weird going on there thats for sure. Have Aquacomp said that pastel should not be used?


----------



## jura11

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ashcroft*
> 
> There is something weird going on there thats for sure. Have Aquacomp said that pastel should not be used?


Hi there

I agree there something weird going on and looks like pastel fluid is causing this or clogged membrane on the sensor,but without the removing the sensor I will never know if pastel is causing this or something else

Will see there

Thanks,Jura


----------



## Mega Man

afaik pastel is ok with it, but tbh i dont know.

have you reset it to zero ( with no pump flow ? )


----------



## jura11

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> afaik pastel is ok with it, but tbh i dont know.
> 
> have you reset it to zero ( with no pump flow ? )


Hi there

I've tried everything possible,Sven asked me to do zero calibration with pump unplugged or power cable removed from pump for time being or for time of calibration,after that on any speed flow sensor reads 0 L/H then if I reset sensor starts to read 399 L/H etc,strange issue there

Thanks,Jura


----------



## ruffhi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M-Sauce*
> 
> I used one of the caselabs drive bay blanks to McGiver myself some mounts. I think it looks better than the stock AQuaComputer mounts which stick out quite a bit. Used some rubber to shimm the mounts inward a bit, but will need a bit more to make the Aquaero sit flush with the front of the case.


I copied your idea - thx for posting it. My first attempt ended up with an Aquaero mount that was just a touch too wide ... rounding out the screw holes fixed that.

This sort of mount also opens up the option of putting the Aquaero in my pedestal. Previously, it didn't fit because of the Aquaero 'wings' ... but your mod has just killed those off. I will see if it fits when I get home tonight.

Edit: It fits. Power cable might be a little tough ... but very doable.


----------



## ChiTownButcher

Figured I would ask here. The Corsair waterblocks at Computex are obviously Aquacomputer design so are they a rebrand OEM Supply deal or is Aquacomputer waterblock division being bought by Corsair?


----------



## docsys

For this question read this post and a view following that comment on that.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ruffhi*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *M-Sauce*
> 
> I used one of the caselabs drive bay blanks to McGiver myself some mounts. I think it looks better than the stock AQuaComputer mounts which stick out quite a bit. Used some rubber to shimm the mounts inward a bit, but will need a bit more to make the Aquaero sit flush with the front of the case.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I copied your idea - thx for posting it. My first attempt ended up with an Aquaero mount that was just a touch too wide ... rounding out the screw holes fixed that.
> 
> This sort of mount also opens up the option of putting the Aquaero in my pedestal. Previously, it didn't fit because of the Aquaero 'wings' ... but your mod has just killed those off. I will see if it fits when I get home tonight.
> 
> Edit: It fits. Power cable might be a little tough ... but very doable.
Click to expand...

the sad thing is i have been asking caselabs to make one JUST LIKE THIS since before the nova.....

seriously they are just too rooted in no change, i think they are starting to lose face because of it...
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ChiTownButcher*
> 
> Figured I would ask here. The Corsair waterblocks at Computex are obviously Aquacomputer design so are they a rebrand OEM Supply deal or is Aquacomputer waterblock division being bought by Corsair?


linky please ? i cant seem to find one ....i would be willing to bet they have a license. corsair has no will to own much of anything, pretty much all ( not all, just most of ) they do is re-brand


----------



## jura11

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ChiTownButcher*
> 
> Figured I would ask here. The Corsair waterblocks at Computex are obviously Aquacomputer design so are they a rebrand OEM Supply deal or is Aquacomputer waterblock division being bought by Corsair?


Hi there

Please check this answer of the @geggeg

http://www.overclock.net/t/584302/ocn-water-cooling-club-and-picture-gallery/105060#post_26132223

Hope this helps

Thanks, Jura


----------



## ChiTownButcher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jura11*
> 
> Hi there
> 
> Please check this answer of the @geggeg
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/584302/ocn-water-cooling-club-and-picture-gallery/105060#post_26132223
> 
> Hope this helps
> 
> Thanks, Jura


If you check back at the thread you referenced it appears I was correct yesterday for what was announced today


----------



## ruffhi

If I wanted to go headless with an AQ6 ... what parts do I need to keep?

The AQ6 has ...

faceplate
board with screen
board with fan pins, etc
heatsink (optional)
Am I right in thinking that I just need ...

board with fan pins, etc
heatsink (optional)


----------



## Mega Man

Correct. if you want to mount it you would probably have to add some small screws from ace to use it in a flex bay


----------



## ruffhi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> Correct. if you want to mount it you would probably have to add some small screws from ace to use it in a flex bay


I used the hex screws that attach the faceplate to the screen. They worked perfectly.


----------



## FlyInfinity

I finally got the parts from radioshack today and made the diva mod cable using a 4.7k ohm resistor. Here are my results on 4 140mm SW3 High Speed PWM fans on a splitty.



Needless to say I LOVE this mod! There's only a tiny uptick at the end but thats because the fans max out at 99%. Thanks diva!


----------



## l0keman

Hi. I am not sure if this is the correct place to ask, but I am looking to upgrade my loop and am interested and have been for years, in getting an aquacomputer fan controller. I just can not for the life of me find a clear description of what their products can and can not do or can do with adaptors/modding. I get that it's a fan controller with a screen that provides data and allows you to adjust fan speed and monitor temps. But will it control fans with RGBs or light strips? If I hook up a bunch of fans and temp sensors, will they be visible and controllable from other software on my desktop? Will it control my corsair smart psu?


----------



## Mega Man

What kind of rgbs? General rgb strips? With a farbwerk it can.

Fans, yes, some are better then others.

Other software, no, hw info (and maybe others, but why hwmonitor is junk imo) can show stuff but control had to be dove through either the display or aqua suite.

Corsair psu, just no. Propiatory only.

If you have other questions just ask


----------



## l0keman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> What kind of rgbs? General rgb strips? With a farbwerk it can.
> 
> Fans, yes, some are better then others.
> 
> Other software, no, hw info (and maybe others, but why hwmonitor is junk imo) can show stuff but control had to be dove through either the display or aqua suite.
> 
> Corsair psu, just no. Propiatory only.
> 
> If you have other questions just ask


Thank you for the quick reply. I haven't decided on the LED strips. I had a nice rig and my koolance WB leaked and killed everything. So I just threw together what I needed to keep playing the games I like and was focused on other things. I am now finally back around to rebuilding. I just got a TT tower 900 and want to do dual loops and have not decided on what exactly to get. I like the TT magnetic led strips, but like my Corsair PSU and system monitoring software that allows me move sensor data on a photo background of my PC, forget what it is called. But I like it. So, I like corsair software and fans, dislike their LED strips, like TT LED strips and Lighted fittings, like the aquacomputer 6xt and pumps and WB. I don't like the idea of having multiple proprietary eco systems running on my system and am just trying to see my options.

But, I do know my loop is more important to me than RGB fans. Can you tell me what the difference is with the aquacomputer pumps? I see the D5 comes in USB and PWM. Which is better? And is it possible to get the aquastream pumps with built in vertical reservoirs, like a D5? I like the idea of two of those with the screens and the 6xt? Do they all play nice? Could I control them from the 6xt on the front of the case without removing my glass windows and just show temp and flow data on the pump faces?


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *l0keman*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> What kind of rgbs? General rgb strips? With a farbwerk it can.
> 
> Fans, yes, some are better then others.
> 
> Other software, no, hw info (and maybe others, but why hwmonitor is junk imo) can show stuff but control had to be dove through either the display or aqua suite.
> 
> Corsair psu, just no. Propiatory only.
> 
> If you have other questions just ask
> 
> 
> 
> Thank you for the quick reply. I haven't decided on the LED strips. I had a nice rig and my koolance WB leaked and killed everything. So I just threw together what I needed to keep playing the games I like and was focused on other things. I am now finally back around to rebuilding. I just got a TT tower 900 and want to do dual loops and have not decided on what exactly to get. I like the TT magnetic led strips, but like my Corsair PSU and system monitoring software that allows me move sensor data on a photo background of my PC, forget what it is called. But I like it. So, I like corsair software and fans, dislike their LED strips, like TT LED strips and Lighted fittings, like the aquacomputer 6xt and pumps and WB. I don't like the idea of having multiple proprietary eco systems running on my system and am just trying to see my options.
> 
> But, I do know my loop is more important to me than RGB fans. Can you tell me what the difference is with the aquacomputer pumps? I see the D5 comes in USB and PWM. Which is better? And is it possible to get the aquastream pumps with built in vertical reservoirs, like a D5? I like the idea of two of those with the screens and the 6xt? Do they all play nice? Could I control them from the 6xt on the front of the case without removing my glass windows and just show temp and flow data on the pump faces?
Click to expand...

With a large dual loop build, going with the USB D5's would keep 2 fan channels free for fans, which with a Tower 900, you'll have a lot of.

Once you get your system bled, pumps speed is pretty much a set and forget item, so you really do not need for it to be all that easy to control, and certainly not set up on a curve.

If you want control of your PSU, you'll have to go with Corsair Link . . . Which could turn out to be a good thing, if you like RGB, as the lighting node pro works with it.

If you want RGB fans,, and that big case, especially of it's a white one, would really pop . . . I'd look at the Corsair HD fan series, stay away from the cheaper SP series, as the HD is so much more capable for effects, and not that much more expensive, so it's really a better value. (HD also looks good from both the push and pull sides)

If you do go with Corsair fans, the lighting control is separate from any speed control you might want to implement . . . so no problem with a Lighting node Pro for the fans and some light strips with the same LED setups that can have the same effects as your fans, and running Aquasuite for the A6 for the speed control side of the setup.

I am waiting on my HD140s with the LNP to go in one of my Tt tempered glass snow edition builds, which also has an A6 for fan control, so I'll be able to offer up some details on how it all works together in the coming weeks.

While the Farbwerk is AC's hardware for controlling LED strips, it's strictly a 4 wire RGB controller, where the Corsair system uses addressable LEDs and strips, I'm not sure the 2 different looks would work together as well as either one alone.

Hit up YouTube for the Corsair HD series fan vids and see if you like the options that gives you . . .

An Aquaero will always be a good investment for any large build where you need to keep a lot of fans from making you deaf


----------



## l0keman

Yes. I have the snow edition Tower 900. I think I'll go with corsair for everything else and aquacomputer for my loops. Thanks for the help. If I understand right, you were saying that there is a way to control fan speed with the aquacomputer and control the lights with the corsair link? I just assumed it was all or nothing.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *l0keman*
> 
> Yes. I have the snow edition Tower 900. I think I'll go with corsair for everything else and aquacomputer for my loops. Thanks for the help. If I understand right, you were saying that there is a way to control fan speed with the aquacomputer and control the lights with the corsair link? *I just assumed it was all or nothing.*


Nope . . .

The Corsair fans have 2 cables with 2 different plugs coming from them . . . .

For the HD series, they are PWM controlled and have a regular 4 wire/4 pin PWM fan connector so you can use some splitters and run the speed control from the A6 for whole lot of them.

They also have a 3 wire/3pin plug, which connects to their 6 fan hub and 3 button controller system for the RGB lighting, so speed and lighting control are 2 very separate systems.

Using the Lighting Node Pro in place of the little 3 button manual controller that comes with the full kits, lets you control the lighting in Corsair Link . . . the LNP also can control their addressable LED strips, so the effects on the strips can synch with the fans.


----------



## Kimir

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FlyInfinity*
> 
> I finally got the parts from radioshack today and made the diva mod cable using a 4.7k ohm resistor. Here are my results on 4 140mm SW3 High Speed PWM fans on a splitty.
> 
> 
> 
> Needless to say I LOVE this mod! There's only a tiny uptick at the end but thats because the fans max out at 99%. Thanks diva!


very nice, makes me wonder why a manufacturer such as be-quiet can't make that in their design of the pcb...


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kimir*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *FlyInfinity*
> 
> I finally got the parts from radioshack today and made the diva mod cable using a 4.7k ohm resistor. Here are my results on 4 140mm SW3 High Speed PWM fans on a splitty.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Needless to say I LOVE this mod! There's only a tiny uptick at the end but thats because the fans max out at 99%. Thanks diva!
> 
> 
> 
> very nice, makes me wonder why a manufacturer such as be-quiet can't make that in their design of the pcb...
Click to expand...

They may well have implemented it in the fan hub PCB in the higher end cases that the fans come in. . . .

Possibly without checking out how bad the fans worked by themselves without it.

Looking at that graph, that's the contrast between "pretty damn nice" and "bloody farking useless".


----------



## Mega Man

better question- why cant they just use intel pwm spec.

the og d5s had a very good reason not to, lets exclude those from this comment. but corsair, and these new ones... when will they learn ...


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> better question- *why cant they just use intel pwm spec.
> *
> the og d5s had a very good reason not to, lets exclude those from this comment. but corsair, and these new ones... when will they learn ...


To throw out a thought . . . .

Because the Intel standard is a decades old dinosaur, based on technology of the late 80's or so, doesn't take into account new semiconductor technologies, capabilities, or lower energy use technologies, and needs to be updated/revised.


----------



## iamjanco

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> To throw out a thought . . . .
> 
> Because the Intel standard is a decades old dinosaur, based on technology of the late 80's or so, doesn't take into account new semiconductor technologies, capabilities, or lower energy use technologies, and needs to be updated/revised.


If you're not aware of it, a handy link follows (for the others benefit as well):

*Industry Specifications for Desktop Boards*
Last Reviewed: 18-Apr-2017

Access to the PWM spec dated 2005 is currently found here:

*4-Wire Pulse Width Modulation (PWM) Controlled Fans Specification*
Revision 1.3, September 2005, Intel Corporation

Probably also ought to mention that organizations like *PCI-SIG*, *PCIMG*, etc., provide access to a lot of the newer info that's been established since, like that associated with PCI-E and other developments. Unfortunately, that access can come at a steep price in the form of annual membership fees (e.g., PCI-SIG charges up to $4,000 in annual membership fees).


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iamjanco*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> To throw out a thought . . . .
> 
> Because the Intel standard is a decades old dinosaur, based on technology of the late 80's or so, doesn't take into account new semiconductor technologies, capabilities, or lower energy use technologies, and needs to be updated/revised.
> 
> 
> 
> If you're not aware of it, a handy link follows (for the others benefit as well):
> 
> *Industry Specifications for Desktop Boards*
> Last Reviewed: 18-Apr-2017
> 
> Access to the PWM spec dated 2005 is currently found here:
> 
> *4-Wire Pulse Width Modulation (PWM) Controlled Fans Specification*
> Revision 1.3, September 2005, Intel Corporation
> 
> Probably also ought to mention that organizations like *PCI-SIG*, *PCIMG*, etc., provide access to a lot of the newer info that's been established since, like that associated with PCI-E and other developments. Unfortunately, that access can come at a steep price in the form of annual membership fees (e.g., PCI-SIG charges up to $4,000 in annual membership fees).
Click to expand...

Which makes the technology era about a decade newer than I was thinking . . . . that's what I get for thinking.









The one to pay attention to is the current limit on the PWM line . . . 1ma up to 5ma max . .

That's crazy high by today's technology, and that strong of a pullup, is what made the Corsair fans so damn hard to control when they came out.

Interesting to note also, that there is no current spec for the open collector / drain tach circuit in the fan to be capable of sinking


----------



## AllGamer

*How do I get the Speed Signal reading?*

I'm using an Aquacomputer Flow Rate Sensor High Flow USB G1/4



Alarm connected to CPU fan input (top right), BIOS properly detects the RPM from the High Flow USB

External Temp, connected to Temp input (white G1/4 sensor to High Flow USB)

USB from High Flow to USB on motherboard right behind the High Flow USB.


----------



## Mega Man

It will appear as a separate device as your aquaero. To get it too show under the aquaero you would need to add a aquabus wire, set to aquabus priority. And reboot.


----------



## SpringY1989

Just received an Aquacomputer splitty 9 and will be using it as a fan splitter application, how do I make sure the jumper is not set to aquabus position?


----------



## vvv850

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SpringY1989*
> 
> Just received an Aquacomputer splitty 9 and will be using it as a fan splitter application, how do I make sure the jumper is not set to aquabus position?


I believe there is a graphic printed on the board right next to the jumper that shows the aquabus position. You just have to do the opposite. Mine came with the jumper in fan configuration.


----------



## Barefooter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SpringY1989*
> 
> Just received an Aquacomputer splitty 9 and will be using it as a fan splitter application, how do I make sure the jumper is not set to aquabus position?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vvv850*
> 
> I believe there is a graphic printed on the board right next to the jumper that shows the aquabus position. You just have to do the opposite. Mine came with the jumper in fan configuration.


This is correct. There is a graphic printed on the Splitty, and it does come default in the fan splitter mode.


----------



## M-Sauce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ruffhi*
> 
> I copied your idea - thx for posting it. My first attempt ended up with an Aquaero mount that was just a touch too wide ... rounding out the screw holes fixed that.
> 
> This sort of mount also opens up the option of putting the Aquaero in my pedestal. Previously, it didn't fit because of the Aquaero 'wings' ... but your mod has just killed those off. I will see if it fits when I get home tonight.
> 
> Edit: It fits. Power cable might be a little tough ... but very doable.


Glad to hear it worked for you. Mine worked great, but I'm not crazy about the wire mess. I might clean it up a little, but I feel like it will be a nest no matter what. I can see why the LT is an attractive option since you can mount it remotely.

Has anybody mounted the 6 remotely? Could I just get the proper wire to connect the screen so that it can remain on the front panel?


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M-Sauce*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *ruffhi*
> 
> I copied your idea - thx for posting it. My first attempt ended up with an Aquaero mount that was just a touch too wide ... rounding out the screw holes fixed that.
> 
> This sort of mount also opens up the option of putting the Aquaero in my pedestal. Previously, it didn't fit because of the Aquaero 'wings' ... but your mod has just killed those off. I will see if it fits when I get home tonight.
> 
> Edit: It fits. Power cable might be a little tough ... but very doable.
> 
> 
> 
> Glad to hear it worked for you. Mine worked great, but I'm not crazy about the wire mess. I might clean it up a little, but I feel like it will be a nest no matter what. I can see why the LT is an attractive option since you can mount it remotely.
> 
> Has anybody mounted the 6 remotely? Could I just get the proper wire to connect the screen so that it can remain on the front panel?
Click to expand...

We have Ben told it won't work from soggy, due to what I will call signal integrity.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SpringY1989*
> 
> Just received an Aquacomputer splitty 9 and will be using it as a fan splitter application, how do I make sure the jumper is not set to aquabus position?


even if it is set up wrong you will just see nonsense rpm readings, no harm will be dove fyi


----------



## SeeThruHead

Setting up a new WC loop and forget I have an aquaero 5lt in a box somewhere, so now I have

4 Gentle Typhoon Performance Radiator Fan - 550-1850rpm, 58cfm - Black Edition PWM

and i previously had
4 Gentle Typhoon Performance Radiator Fan - 1850rpm, 58cfm - Black Edition (non pwm)

and i've got a silverstone pwm fan spliiter now too

recommended setup?

voltage controlled fans on aquaero 5lt? pwm fans on silverstone? should i upgrade to a 6lt and use my pwm fans? does it matter at all?

input appreciated.

EDIT: also have the PWM d5 pump, where should i control this from, can i use the aquaero 5lt? leaning towards using the UEFI to fix the pump speed at a constant quiet rpm tho


----------



## BoredErica

Does the pull up issue of SW3 affect Aquaero's ability to measure the power draw of the fans? Or, maybe SW3 is just so much more power efficient than Vardars.


----------



## Spikeyjohnson

Hi everyone! I don't know if this is the best place or if I should create a thread for this depending on the complexity of the questions.

I just received my Aquaero 6LT and have set it up. I wanted to ask a few questions that some people may have already encountered but I haven't been able to find any answers yet. Here is my setup info:

i7-5930K @ 4.4 ghz (can't remember specific voltage since I'm at work, but it was around 1.3v)
Asus x99-A II motherboard
32 GB Gskill 3200 mhz
Nvidia GTX 1080 Founders Edition
840 Evo
5 TB Western Digital Black
Corsair HX850i

AquaComputer Aquaero 6 LT
EK XRES 140 Revo D5 PWM
EK Supremacy Evo X99 Nickel
EK FC1080 GTX - Nickel (the older model of the GTX 1080 block before capability of "universal application" between the 1060-1080ti)
EK CoolStream PE 240
EK CoolStream PE360
5 x Noctua NF-F12 iPPC 2000 PWM
2 x Swiftech 8 way PWM Splitter
Numerous Bitspower Fittings
Numerous Primochill Fittings
Bitspower Water Temperature Sensor Fitting

Below are my questions

1. Has anyone noticed any issues previously with controlling PWM fans going from the Aquaero (via 1 PWM connector on Aquaero), to the Swiftech 8 Way Splitter, to multiple fans. I have 3 of the Noctua Fans connected to the Splitter, which is connected to the Aquaero and have notice that it is unable to control them via PWM. I think this may be to do with the PWM Splitter receiving separate power from an Sata connector and not providing any cables other than the RPM and PWM cables to the Aquaero.
I removed a few of the fans from the splitter and plugged them straight into the Aquaero and it was able to control them. It was also able to control the only fan left on the splitter after removing the other fans. Which I thought was odd.
I am doing what I think to remedy this situation by ordering a AquaComputer Splitty9 and it should be here tomorrow. If that solves the issue, I'll plug all 5 fans into that splitter instead of between the 2 different Swiftech splitters (which have been split between radiator fan sets).

2. Has anyone had any experience with controlling the EK d5 Revo PWM pump on an Aquaero? Is it possible? I notice that the Aquaero wasn't able to sense the PWM Signal of the pump where the motherboard is able to control it and sense the PWM Signal sitting somewhere between 4k and 5k RPM (sounds about right for 100%). For now I have swapped the pump back to the Water Pump header on the motherboard and I'm now sure that it is running full speed.

3. Lastly, my temps are a bit high and that may only be an indicator of my OC being a bit radical for my processor. I'm constantly seeing 70+, up to 76 or so degrees when playing some intensive games such as BF1. My water temps are around 32 degrees and the processor varies greatly in temperature when my water temps are only varying from about 26-32. I've set up the device to ramp up the fans and max out to 100% by 33.9 degrees water temperature. Does this just look like the OC is a little over the top, or the processor not being the best in the silicon lottery? I also had higher temps than running previously straight of the motherboard, but only ever saw 65-69 degrees when playing BF1 previously when the motherboard controlled everything (without water temperature sensors). I have checked the thermal paste and it is evenly applied, the same as previous to adding the new parts and rebuilding the loop. I'm thinking I may need to just drop the OC by a little bit, but didn't know how anyone else's 5930k's have been acting on the Aquaero at the speeds, voltages, and temps I'm running. Does 4.4 GHZ seem a bit high for a 5930k? Does anyone have any tips for setting up the curves, virtual sensors, software sensors, etc to achieve a solid curve and cooling of the water, to allow the processor to cool more efficiently? I am currently running the curve off of the straight water temperature.

Of course all of these parts, aside from the Aquaero and Bitspower Water Temperature Sensor were purchased previously and I'm trying to adapt them to the Aquaero. I think once I have the Splitty9 I'll be able to control all of the fans and that will be fine. If need be I can also run the pump off of the motherboard since I'm running it at 100% anyways.

Of course, thanks in advance for any questions and have a great day!


----------



## ruffhi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Spikeyjohnson*
> 
> 1. Has anyone noticed any issues previously with controlling PWM fans going from the Aquaero (via 1 PWM connector on Aquaero), to the Swiftech 8 Way Splitter, to multiple fans. I have 3 of the Noctua Fans connected to the Splitter, which is connected to the Aquaero and have notice that it is unable to control them via PWM. I think this may be to do with the PWM Splitter receiving separate power from an Sata connector and not providing any cables other than the RPM and PWM cables to the Aquaero.
> I removed a few of the fans from the splitter and plugged them straight into the Aquaero and it was able to control them. It was also able to control the only fan left on the splitter after removing the other fans. Which I thought was odd.
> I am doing what I think to remedy this situation by ordering a AquaComputer Splitty9 and it should be here tomorrow. If that solves the issue, I'll plug all 5 fans into that splitter instead of between the 2 different Swiftech splitters (which have been split between radiator fan sets).


Firstly - welcome to the club.

I have a Silverstone tek fan hub that is basically the same as the Swiftech one you mentioned. Make sure that you have a fan plugged into the 'magic' header that returns the RPM to the Aquaero. That should be the only fan header that does return RPM or your poor Aquaero will get confused.

I have had no problem with my silverstone tek hub.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Spikeyjohnson*
> 3. Does anyone have any tips for setting up the curves, virtual sensors, software sensors, etc to achieve a solid curve and cooling of the water, to allow the processor to cool more efficiently? I am currently running the curve off of the straight water temperature.


Try a software sensor that is the difference between the air temp and the water temp. High water temp might be caused by high air temp. You'll need a temp sensor plugged into your Aquaero and then use one of the software sensors to calculate the delta.

Also ... where have the edit / attach / bold / italics buttons on OCN gone? They grew in font a few weeks ago and now they are totally missing.


----------



## Spikeyjohnson

Thanks for the help Ruffhi. I have added an ambient air temp sensor and I'm now cooling the machine based on the difference of temps. That was a perfect setup. I also dropped my OC which ended up being 4.4 @ 1.305V down to 4.125 GHZ @ 1.25V and I'm now doing tons better on temps.

On to the fans. I plugged all of the fans into the single PWM splitter and it still wasn't able to control them so I'll be excited for tomorrow when the Aquacomputer Splitty9 shows u p. Right now I'm running 4 fans off of the Aquaero and 1 tied to the Chassis fan connector on the mobo. It is doing wonderful!


----------



## vvv850

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Spikeyjohnson*
> 
> Hi everyone! I don't know if this is the best place or if I should create a thread for this depending on the complexity of the questions.
> 
> I just received my Aquaero 6LT and have set it up. I wanted to ask a few questions that some people may have already encountered but I haven't been able to find any answers yet. Here is my setup info:
> 
> i7-5930K @ 4.4 ghz (can't remember specific voltage since I'm at work, but it was around 1.3v)
> Asus x99-A II motherboard
> 32 GB Gskill 3200 mhz
> Nvidia GTX 1080 Founders Edition
> 840 Evo
> 5 TB Western Digital Black
> Corsair HX850i
> 
> AquaComputer Aquaero 6 LT
> EK XRES 140 Revo D5 PWM
> EK Supremacy Evo X99 Nickel
> EK FC1080 GTX - Nickel (the older model of the GTX 1080 block before capability of "universal application" between the 1060-1080ti)
> EK CoolStream PE 240
> EK CoolStream PE360
> 5 x Noctua NF-F12 iPPC 2000 PWM
> 2 x Swiftech 8 way PWM Splitter
> Numerous Bitspower Fittings
> Numerous Primochill Fittings
> Bitspower Water Temperature Sensor Fitting
> 
> Below are my questions
> 
> 1. Has anyone noticed any issues previously with controlling PWM fans going from the Aquaero (via 1 PWM connector on Aquaero), to the Swiftech 8 Way Splitter, to multiple fans. I have 3 of the Noctua Fans connected to the Splitter, which is connected to the Aquaero and have notice that it is unable to control them via PWM. I think this may be to do with the PWM Splitter receiving separate power from an Sata connector and not providing any cables other than the RPM and PWM cables to the Aquaero.
> I removed a few of the fans from the splitter and plugged them straight into the Aquaero and it was able to control them. It was also able to control the only fan left on the splitter after removing the other fans. Which I thought was odd.
> I am doing what I think to remedy this situation by ordering a AquaComputer Splitty9 and it should be here tomorrow. If that solves the issue, I'll plug all 5 fans into that splitter instead of between the 2 different Swiftech splitters (which have been split between radiator fan sets).
> 
> 2. Has anyone had any experience with controlling the EK d5 Revo PWM pump on an Aquaero? Is it possible? I notice that the Aquaero wasn't able to sense the PWM Signal of the pump where the motherboard is able to control it and sense the PWM Signal sitting somewhere between 4k and 5k RPM (sounds about right for 100%). For now I have swapped the pump back to the Water Pump header on the motherboard and I'm now sure that it is running full speed.
> 
> 3. Lastly, my temps are a bit high and that may only be an indicator of my OC being a bit radical for my processor. I'm constantly seeing 70+, up to 76 or so degrees when playing some intensive games such as BF1. My water temps are around 32 degrees and the processor varies greatly in temperature when my water temps are only varying from about 26-32. I've set up the device to ramp up the fans and max out to 100% by 33.9 degrees water temperature. Does this just look like the OC is a little over the top, or the processor not being the best in the silicon lottery? I also had higher temps than running previously straight of the motherboard, but only ever saw 65-69 degrees when playing BF1 previously when the motherboard controlled everything (without water temperature sensors). I have checked the thermal paste and it is evenly applied, the same as previous to adding the new parts and rebuilding the loop. I'm thinking I may need to just drop the OC by a little bit, but didn't know how anyone else's 5930k's have been acting on the Aquaero at the speeds, voltages, and temps I'm running. Does 4.4 GHZ seem a bit high for a 5930k? Does anyone have any tips for setting up the curves, virtual sensors, software sensors, etc to achieve a solid curve and cooling of the water, to allow the processor to cool more efficiently? I am currently running the curve off of the straight water temperature.
> 
> Of course all of these parts, aside from the Aquaero and Bitspower Water Temperature Sensor were purchased previously and I'm trying to adapt them to the Aquaero. I think once I have the Splitty9 I'll be able to control all of the fans and that will be fine. If need be I can also run the pump off of the motherboard since I'm running it at 100% anyways.
> 
> Of course, thanks in advance for any questions and have a great day!


1. Be sure to check that the fan control is set to PWM and not Power controlled. Also, do you see the RPM?

2. I have the dual D5 revo setup using the newer G2 EK pumps (Xylem). From my experience, the PWM control for these start form 45% to 99% and work with AQ6.

3. The most efficient way to control fans with AQ (in my opinion) is to add a set point controller with the water temp as source and the rad fans as outputs. Then set the Temp at 33 or where you want it to be, set the fan response speed from slowest to fastest ,then go into Fans menu and set the Min and Max values for each fan. The set point controller acts like a PID. It sets the fan speed automatically to reach the desired source temperature (eg. 33C water temp). You can also run fanless until the water reaches the set value. If you don't want this, just put a check mark on "hold minimum power" to avoid this.


----------



## iamjanco

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Darkwizzie*
> 
> Does the pull up issue of SW3 affect Aquaero's ability to measure the power draw of the fans? Or, maybe SW3 is just so much more power efficient than Vardars.


Rather than continue to speculate at this point, it might be best to wait until Darlene has a chance to complete her testing of the SW3 fans and chimes in.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Spikeyjohnson*
> 
> Hi everyone! I don't know if this is the best place or if I should create a thread for this depending on the complexity of the questions.
> 
> I just received my Aquaero 6LT and have set it up. I wanted to ask a few questions that some people may have already encountered but I haven't been able to find any answers yet. Here is my setup info:
> 
> i7-5930K @ 4.4 ghz (can't remember specific voltage since I'm at work, but it was around 1.3v)
> Asus x99-A II motherboard
> 32 GB Gskill 3200 mhz
> Nvidia GTX 1080 Founders Edition
> 840 Evo
> 5 TB Western Digital Black
> Corsair HX850i
> 
> AquaComputer Aquaero 6 LT
> EK XRES 140 Revo D5 PWM
> EK Supremacy Evo X99 Nickel
> EK FC1080 GTX - Nickel (the older model of the GTX 1080 block before capability of "universal application" between the 1060-1080ti)
> EK CoolStream PE 240
> EK CoolStream PE360
> 5 x Noctua NF-F12 iPPC 2000 PWM
> 2 x Swiftech 8 way PWM Splitter
> Numerous Bitspower Fittings
> Numerous Primochill Fittings
> Bitspower Water Temperature Sensor Fitting
> 
> Below are my questions
> 
> 1. Has anyone noticed any issues previously with controlling PWM fans going from the Aquaero (via 1 PWM connector on Aquaero), to the Swiftech 8 Way Splitter, to multiple fans. I have 3 of the Noctua Fans connected to the Splitter, which is connected to the Aquaero and have notice that it is unable to control them via PWM. I think this may be to do with the PWM Splitter receiving separate power from an Sata connector and not providing any cables other than the RPM and PWM cables to the Aquaero.
> I removed a few of the fans from the splitter and plugged them straight into the Aquaero and it was able to control them. It was also able to control the only fan left on the splitter after removing the other fans. Which I thought was odd.
> I am doing what I think to remedy this situation by ordering a AquaComputer Splitty9 and it should be here tomorrow. If that solves the issue, I'll plug all 5 fans into that splitter instead of between the 2 different Swiftech splitters (which have been split between radiator fan sets).
> 
> 2. Has anyone had any experience with controlling the EK d5 Revo PWM pump on an Aquaero? Is it possible? I notice that the Aquaero wasn't able to sense the PWM Signal of the pump where the motherboard is able to control it and sense the PWM Signal sitting somewhere between 4k and 5k RPM (sounds about right for 100%). For now I have swapped the pump back to the Water Pump header on the motherboard and I'm now sure that it is running full speed.
> 
> 3. Lastly, my temps are a bit high and that may only be an indicator of my OC being a bit radical for my processor. I'm constantly seeing 70+, up to 76 or so degrees when playing some intensive games such as BF1. My water temps are around 32 degrees and the processor varies greatly in temperature when my water temps are only varying from about 26-32. I've set up the device to ramp up the fans and max out to 100% by 33.9 degrees water temperature. Does this just look like the OC is a little over the top, or the processor not being the best in the silicon lottery? I also had higher temps than running previously straight of the motherboard, but only ever saw 65-69 degrees when playing BF1 previously when the motherboard controlled everything (without water temperature sensors). I have checked the thermal paste and it is evenly applied, the same as previous to adding the new parts and rebuilding the loop. I'm thinking I may need to just drop the OC by a little bit, but didn't know how anyone else's 5930k's have been acting on the Aquaero at the speeds, voltages, and temps I'm running. Does 4.4 GHZ seem a bit high for a 5930k? Does anyone have any tips for setting up the curves, virtual sensors, software sensors, etc to achieve a solid curve and cooling of the water, to allow the processor to cool more efficiently? I am currently running the curve off of the straight water temperature.
> 
> Of course all of these parts, aside from the Aquaero and Bitspower Water Temperature Sensor were purchased previously and I'm trying to adapt them to the Aquaero. I think once I have the Splitty9 I'll be able to control all of the fans and that will be fine. If need be I can also run the pump off of the motherboard since I'm running it at 100% anyways.
> 
> Of course, thanks in advance for any questions and have a great day!


1 mine works fine

as mentioned make sure you changed it to pwm

2 what does the sticker on the back of the pump say ? ek or lowra ? \


----------



## Spikeyjohnson

VVV850 and Megaman,

I've got it all running now. I ordered the Splitty 9 and it is able to correctly see RPM and control all of the fans. I just decided to consolidate the two sets of rads onto one Splitty 9 and run it all from the Aquaero rather than requiring any extra sata power and it seems to be doing great. I would look at the pump but I can't see the sticker on the bottom without draining it so I'll just leave it be.

As for the cooling method, I ended up following what Ruffhi's suggestion was and it is turning out wonderfully. I connected a temperature sensor and put it on the bottom front behind the cover over my 750d Airflow's intake, and then I had it calculate the difference between the water and the air and created a small curve which goes from about 1 to 7 degrees with 30% power being the minimum. I also lowered my OC since I figured out it was part of the high temps. I went from 1.305 volts at 4.4 GHZ to 1.25 at 4.125 instead and it has lowered the temperatures a bunch. I'm now much more confident in it running the way I want it to and haven't really lost much performance since it is already quite a beast.

All in all, I'm super excited about getting upgraded to the aquaero. No more listening to the fans freak out when the CPU temp goes up and down, and much more control with how the loop actually runs!

Thanks a bunch for the help you all have provided.


----------



## GTXJackBauer

Glad it all worked out and welcome the Aquaero fam. Great piece of hardware.


----------



## war4peace

Will join this club shortly, just ordered the Aquaero 6 LT an hour ago, will take a week or more until it arrives.
For now just saying hi


----------



## Mega Man

Welcome, let us know when you need help.


----------



## Exilon

Got my Aquaero 6 LT installed today. Bye bye Corsair Link software nonsense... they've somehow made it worse as time went on.

The set point and virtual sensor features are great.



I will install another temperature sensor at the radiator inlet so I can control the pump by set point on inlet/outlet delta. What are people's experiences with that control setup?


----------



## vvv850

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Exilon*
> 
> Got my Aquaero 6 LT installed today. Bye bye Corsair Link software nonsense... they've somehow made it worse as time went on.
> 
> The set point and virtual sensor features are great.
> 
> 
> 
> I will install another temperature sensor at the radiator inlet so I can control the pump by set point on inlet/outlet delta. What are people's experiences with that control setup?


I set a fixed speed for the pump by running it as fast as it can go without noise, vibrations or resonance. Usually pumps have different speeds where they sound badly. Try to find the highest one without intrusive noise. It usually doesn't help varying the pump speed.


----------



## M-Sauce

I personally have my D5s (Dual EK pumps) on a fan controller ramp. Doesn't make a huge difference, but I don't see the sense in running the pumps hard when water temps are cool.

I set my min power to 75% and Max to 100% in the fan setup (using Fan channel 1 for both pumps).

Then I made a curve from 25C to 40C to ramp up from 0% to 100%. This gives me around 1.8-2.0 LPM at minimum, and ramping up to 3.8 LPM at max. Pumps are just about inaudible at the low end, and their noise is drowned out by the fans if the water heats up enough to get them to 100%.

So basically the ramp is just to reduce noise and minimize wear/tear. That's the nice thing about the Aquaero. It gives you tons of modification options. My loop is running very nicely and I have it tweaked just like I want it.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Exilon*
> 
> Got my Aquaero 6 LT installed today. Bye bye Corsair Link software nonsense... they've somehow made it worse as time went on.
> 
> The set point and virtual sensor features are great.
> 
> 
> 
> I will install another temperature sensor at the radiator inlet so I can control the pump by set point on inlet/outlet delta. What are people's experiences with that control setup?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M-Sauce*
> 
> I personally have my D5s (Dual EK pumps) on a fan controller ramp. Doesn't make a huge difference, but I don't see the sense in running the pumps hard when water temps are cool.
> 
> I set my min power to 75% and Max to 100% in the fan setup (using Fan channel 1 for both pumps).
> 
> Then I made a curve from 25C to 40C to ramp up from 0% to 100%. This gives me around 1.8-2.0 LPM at minimum, and ramping up to 3.8 LPM at max. Pumps are just about inaudible at the low end, and their noise is drowned out by the fans if the water heats up enough to get them to 100%.
> 
> So basically the ramp is just to reduce noise and minimize wear/tear. That's the nice thing about the Aquaero. It gives you tons of modification options. My loop is running very nicely and I have it tweaked just like I want it.


As far as setting up pumps with rpm control, Keep in mind that there are basically 2 possible flow types thru the rad . .

Laminar, and Turbulent.

Laminar flow, which occurs at low flow rates is when the coolant flows nice and smooth, only the outer molecules come in contact with the tubes to dissipate heat, and it's terribly inefficient for cooling the liquid.

Turbulent flow is what we want, as it brings all the coolant molecules in contact with the tube and is much more efficient at dissipating heat.

If you want to control pump speed, I'd suggest a 2 point control, a low speed for near idle conditions and cooler ambients, and a normal speed, for everything else.

Have the pump kick up to normal speed before the fan curve kicks in, as increasing flow rate enough to become turbulent may be enough to bring temps down to where you don't need the noisier/higher fan speed.

Typically the sweet spot for rads is around the 1GPM point, you'll maintain turbulent flow down to .75 gpm, and over 1.25 just doesn't translate to improved temps


----------



## GTXJackBauer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Typically the sweet spot for rads is around the 1GPM point, you'll maintain turbulent flow down to .75 gpm, and over 1.25 just doesn't translate to improved temps


Martinsliquidlab has always said that the sweet spot is between 1.0 - 1.5 GPM but I've always set mine around 0.8/0.9 GPM on the low and 1.1 GPM on the high at full bore. Works great.


----------



## AllGamer

Leaving this here in case some one google it.

So, after installing Aquaero 2016, I noticed my Adaptec RAID 6805 series will STOP working after it boots into window, due software / hardware compatibility issue.

It will work fine in DOS, Linux.

Then I figured un-installing Aquarero 2016 software it'll read the RAID again in Windows.

I did not see this mentioned anywhere, and it's worth making it a note for future buyers.

My solution was simple I ditched my 6 TB RAID, and kept the Aquareo









I got plenty of server space to store my stuff, and I've already picked up 4 TB on Samsung 960 PRO NVMe M.2 to replace my old Game drive that was on the RAID.


----------



## Shoggy

Have a look in the system tab of the aquasuite and try to disable the hardware monitoring for SSD/HDD. Maybe the monitoring is messing this up. Disabling the mainboard monitoring might be also worth a try if the RAID is managed by it.


----------



## AllGamer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> Have a look in the system tab of the aquasuite and try to disable the hardware monitoring for SSD/HDD. Maybe the monitoring is messing this up. Disabling the mainboard monitoring might be also worth a try if the RAID is managed by it.


Thanks for the info.

I'll give that a try when I get chance.


----------



## Cyber Locc

Hey guys, need some advice/help. So I want to run an aq6 in my bench build. Issue, I have zero 5.25 bays, not none open none period. Futhermore, the bench spends alot of its life standing up there for a typical AQ mount idea is not going to work period.

So I need a picture of the AQ6 Pro, without the faceplate, I need to know how the mounting system works. My case is alu, about as thick as the drive bay supports. So the goal is to remove those and the case will provide that spacing. But I need to know how far the screen pushes out, does the cut need to accommodate? Or do I just need to have the same cutout as the faceplate? The holes are easy







the cutout is my fear.


----------



## ruffhi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cyber Locc*
> 
> Hey guys, need some advice/help. So I want to run an aq6 in my bench build. Issue, I have zero 5.25 bays, not none open none period. Futhermore, the bench spends alot of its life standing up there for a typical AQ mount idea is not going to work period.
> 
> So I need a picture of the AQ6 Pro, without the faceplate, I need to know how the mounting system works. My case is alu, about as thick as the drive bay supports. So the goal is to remove those and the case will provide that spacing. But I need to know how far the screen pushes out, does the cut need to accommodate? Or do I just need to have the same cutout as the faceplate? The holes are easy
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> the cutout is my fear.


You could mount it headless and not use the screen at all. That is what I have done.


----------



## Cyber Locc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ruffhi*
> 
> You could mount it headless and not use the screen at all. That is what I have done.


I need the screen, as this is first and foremost a bench, although 1 of my gaming pcs will also use it as a home.

For that reason, constricts placement. This pc needs to be movable, the loop, dynamic, the parts easy to swap. Everything will run on QDCs, and LN2 will be used on this machine as well. This isnt a PC case, or a system that sits still, it will have revolving parts, as far as boards CPUs, GPUs, ect. So controlling the AQ6 with the software is fine for the most used system, however the need to be able to control things outside of that are 100% required. A headless system doesn't allow me this. The loop needs the ability to run, with or without the motherboard.

The AQ, the pumps, and a few other components, will also show this by the fact they will have a separate power source. There will be a 2 position switch. Allowing them to be ran from the Power Supply's power, or a 12v laptop power adapter. So that the entire loop, and fan/led system can run independently of the motherboard and Power Supply.


----------



## Cyber Locc

Update so I think going with the XT is the best bet, However I need to figure out how the faceplate works. Does anyone have a top down pic of the pcb stacks.

Edit: Wait a minute, So the Vision Touch, has a remote sensor? For what? Can I control the AQ6 with the Vision? The vision is 110% a better case for me if that is possible. The Vision uses the same remote as the AQ6? If that is the case then a Vision Touch, and a headless AQ6 are a much better option for my use case.


----------



## GTXJackBauer

Don't forget, they have a Aquaero 6 LT for less because it doesn't come equipped with a screen.


----------



## Cyber Locc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GTXJackBauer*
> 
> Don't forget, they have a Aquaero 6 LT for less because it doesn't come equipped with a screen.


Yes i know that, but can i control the AQ6 LT, with the Vision. even just slight control, like up fan speed or pump speed?

Or change profiles? Is there even profiles?


----------



## vvv850

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cyber Locc*
> 
> Yes i know that, but can i control the AQ6 LT, with the Vision. even just slight control, like up fan speed or pump speed?
> 
> Or change profiles? Is there even profiles?


I don't think you can. It's mainly for reading sensor and output data from AQ.

You can instead use a laptop and connect the AQ through USB.


----------



## Shoggy

Correct, the VISION can only display data from the aquaero but you can not control the aquaero through the VISION.


----------



## Cyber Locc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> Correct, the VISION can only display data from the aquaero but you can not control the aquaero through the VISION.


Well that stinks







.

Shoggy since your here, I seen you guys at one time had a external casing for the aq6, or were considering it. Is that still a thing? As that would solve my issues, very well actually.


----------



## ChiTownButcher

Buy an
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cyber Locc*
> 
> Well that stinks
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> 
> Shoggy since your here, I seen you guys at one time had a external casing for the aq6, or were considering it. Is that still a thing? As that would solve my issues, very well actually.


Buy an external 5.25 drive bay


----------



## Shoggy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cyber Locc*
> 
> Shoggy since your here, I seen you guys at one time had a external casing for the aq6, or were considering it. Is that still a thing? As that would solve my issues, very well actually.


That case was only a concept that never made it to a final product.


----------



## Cyber Locc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ChiTownButcher*
> 
> Buy an
> Buy an external 5.25 drive bay


Wayyyyy to big lol. I dont have that much space, I litteraly have like an inch and a half on the front of the case.


----------



## vvv850

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cyber Locc*
> 
> Wayyyyy to big lol. I dont have that much space, I litteraly have like an inch and a half on the front of the case.


I think he was referring to buy a 5.25 external casing like for a CD-rom. You keep it outside the case.


----------



## vvv850

I am experiencing a strange behavior with AQ6 and EK F4-120ER fans.

I have multiple F4-120ER fans spanning 3 channels on the AQ6. The issue I'm experiencing is that whenever the fans come out of "OFF mode" they spin up to full speed and then drop to where they are set on the AQ6.

For example, whenever I boot up my PC, they spin to full speed and then drop to 30% (as I've set them on AQ6), or, if I have them on a set point controller with the "Hold minimum fan speed" unchecked, whenever they need to spin up, they do the same thing as above.

I know these fans go to full speed when no PWM signal is present (or so I think) so maybe the AQ6 is providing power before PWM signal but one thing bothers me. A month ago, I remember that this wasn't the behavior. The fans started up at the set speed without going full speed and then back again.

Another thing that I noticed is that when connecting 12 x F4-120ER to a single channel, during bootup, the channel enters protection mode as if the 3Amp limit is reached. From my calculations, the load is 2.16A at 12V so the headroom to 3A should suffice for spinup. Also, due to the AQ6 design, the channel doesn't provide 12V and is closer to 11.5V which should result in lower Amperage. What is curious though, is that when booting up, the fans spin up at a constant lower RPM and produce a buzzing/humming noise. This holds up for 5 seconds before the channel shuts off.

So, any help is appreciated in diagnosing the problem.

Thanks


----------



## Shoggy

For the spin-up thing at full speed you should check if the start boost is set in the setting of the fan tab.

Since we don't know the fans I can not tell what is going on there but when the aquaero shuts down the channel because of an overload you can be sure it is really there.

I can for a D5 pump as example that it has a short peak of up to 70W when it starts while the pump is only rated at 23W at 12V. So when it starts it requires almost three times more power. No idea how much additional power these fans require but it seems to be too much in this configuration. Maybe remove two or three for a test to find the limit.


----------



## vvv850

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> For the spin-up thing at full speed you should check if the start boost is set in the setting of the fan tab.
> 
> Since we don't know the fans I can not tell what is going on there but when the aquaero shuts down the channel because of an overload you can be sure it is really there.
> 
> I can for a D5 pump as example that it has a short peak of up to 70W when it starts while the pump is only rated at 23W at 12V. So when it starts it requires almost three times more power. No idea how much additional power these fans require but it seems to be too much in this configuration. Maybe remove two or three for a test to find the limit.


I checked the boost and it's off.

In the end I powered 4 of them through a 4pin molex and controlling all 12 through a single channel.

I was hoping that someone has some insight into why they are spinning to max before settling given that these fans seem to be quite popular.

Thanks


----------



## GTXJackBauer

I got the same problem. My pumps spin to max on every power-up sucking up some air for a good few seconds before it settles down to its set speed. I didn't have this problem before as nothing was changed from then but since a few updates, I took notice. Not sure what I can do either.


----------



## ChiTownButcher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vvv850*
> 
> I think he was referring to buy a 5.25 external casing like for a CD-rom. You keep it outside the case.


Correct! Or you could mold something similar out ok Kydex (thermal form plastic sheets) over a wooden block cut to the dimensions you need


----------



## vvv850

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GTXJackBauer*
> 
> I got the same problem. My pumps spin to max on every power-up sucking up some air for a good few seconds before it settles down to its set speed. I didn't have this problem before as nothing was changed from then but since a few updates, I took notice. Not sure what I can do either.


Is the pump also powered from AQ or just pwm controlled?

I haven't noticed this on my ek D5 G2s, but I will check.


----------



## GTXJackBauer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vvv850*
> 
> Is the pump also powered from AQ or just pwm controlled?
> 
> I haven't noticed this on my ek D5 G2s, but I will check.


Pumps (MCP35X2) are connected to CH.1 on the AQ 6 via PWM. They get their power straight from the PSU via molex.


----------



## Cyber Locc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vvv850*
> 
> I think he was referring to buy a 5.25 external casing like for a CD-rom. You keep it outside the case.


I know what he was referring too. However this is once again, a bench build. It will be moved, alot.

My need for the Casing from AC, was to attach it to the case on a swivel, so that when standing up being used as a destop, it could point up, straight in that stance, as a bench I could turn it foward toward me.


----------



## Kimir

Build yourself some bracket to attach it, problem solved.


----------



## Cyber Locc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kimir*
> 
> Build yourself some bracket to attach it, problem solved.


Ya I will probably have to or go with LT. The only issue with a bracket as I looked into that, is I would need to seal the AQ like shoggys case, as this bench will also have LN2 used on it, and the open boards will be a liability.

Probably like he said buy an external drive bay casing and mod it myself to be shorter and still contain the AQ.

I did like the Idea of controlling the AQ with a laptop, I do not own a laptop lol, but still is a sound idea. Maybe a windows tablet just for that is a an idea.


----------



## vvv850

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cyber Locc*
> 
> I know what he was referring too. However this is once again, a bench build. It will be moved, alot.
> 
> My need for the Casing from AC, was to attach it to the case on a swivel, so that when standing up being used as a destop, it could point up, straight in that stance, as a bench I could turn it foward toward me.


----------



## Cyber Locc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vvv850*


Yep I had seen that, That is where I got my idea from







.

However I would need to seal up the AQ as open like that is a liability.


----------



## vvv850

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cyber Locc*
> 
> Yep I had seen that, That is where I got my idea from
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> 
> However I would need to seal up the AQ as open like that is a liability.


Then a 5.25 HDD/CD case, cut it in half, glue a Plexi on its back. Then route the cables through a hole. I don't think a smaller 5.25 case exists.


----------



## Cyber Locc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vvv850*
> 
> Then a 5.25 HDD/CD case, cut it in half, glue a Plexi on its back. Then route the cables through a hole. I don't think a smaller 5.25 case exists.


Ya thats what I was thinking, more than in half though







.


----------



## Shoggy

I can't help myself but...


----------



## iamjanco

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> Correct, the VISION can only display data from the aquaero but you can not control the aquaero through the VISION.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> I can't help myself but...


Let's hope your version doesn't spit fire like this one:

https://youtu.be/5eK3f2iJZl0


----------



## BoredErica

Does everyone use a water temperature sensor and set up their fan curves with respect to the water temperature? If that's really the way to go for sure then I'll make adjustments to the loop so it can be set up. Would just going off of CPU or GPU temps be fine? If I'm setting Aquasuite to read off of Hwinfo work? I guess getting that to work I would still at the very least need HWinfo on all of the time even if Aquasuite doesn't. I don't want software open all of the time on my computer.

Also it seems like Aquaero cannot control the EK Revo (https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-xtop-revo-dual-d5-pwm-serial-incl-pump) due to EK's PWM implementation. Is that correct?


----------



## jura11

Hi there

I would get simple G1/4 temp sensor, I'm using Barrow temp sensor my is plugged in free port on my reservoir or you can use or get Aquacomputer G1/4 extension on radiator which I think is better way to do so but all depends on the budget and how you want to do so

Personally I'm controlling my fans based on water delta T, its easy to setup

Regarding the controlling fans based on CPU or GPU temperature not sure, tried that on CPU and I don't like it due the spikes in temperatures,based on GPU not sure not tried that but way better is control fans based on the water delta T

Yes if you want to read any sensor from HWiNFO or Aida64 then both SW needs to be running in background or they must be minimized which is not bad there, but depends on personal preferences, I've opened several monitoring SW like is SIV64 and HWiNFO plus Afterburner etc and no issues

Hope this helps

Thanks, Jura


----------



## Cyber Locc

Alright guys Im getting the AQ bug!

So how far can I run an Aquabus cable, to a slave fan controller? To be able to control more fans and a pump on a external rad. Guessing Id say id need a minium of 4-5feet, Doable?


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GTXJackBauer*
> 
> I got the same problem. My pumps spin to max on every power-up sucking up some air for a good few seconds before it settles down to its set speed. I didn't have this problem before as nothing was changed from then but since a few updates, I took notice. Not sure what I can do either.


are you using a software sensor by chance ? if you are it is possible you are hitting the timeout / fallback temps ?

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> I can't help myself but...










Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Darkwizzie*
> 
> Does everyone use a water temperature sensor and set up their fan curves with respect to the water temperature? If that's really the way to go for sure then I'll make adjustments to the loop so it can be set up. Would just going off of CPU or GPU temps be fine? If I'm setting Aquasuite to read off of Hwinfo work? I guess getting that to work I would still at the very least need HWinfo on all of the time even if Aquasuite doesn't. I don't want software open all of the time on my computer.
> 
> Also it seems like Aquaero cannot control the EK Revo (https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-xtop-revo-dual-d5-pwm-serial-incl-pump) due to EK's PWM implementation. Is that correct?


it should, most of these pumps ( that are sold with that top ) are the rev 2 but the only way to tell is to look at the sicker on the back, if it says lowra it is rev 1 ifit says ek it is rev 2 , if rev 1 you need the diva mod, that said it was not eks implementation it was xylems


----------



## vvv850

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vvv850*
> 
> Is the pump also powered from AQ or just pwm controlled?
> 
> I haven't noticed this on my ek D5 G2s, but I will check.


My pump doesn't ramp up to full speed on boot. Just the F4-120ER. Neither does the Eloop.


----------



## outofmyheadyo

Nevermind found an older version of aquasuite on my old drive, the ones they have availlable on their site are essentially pointless, 2016 version doesn`t allow you to change anything and the 2017 version requires a license to use, seriously aquacomputer, did you take some moneygrab lessons from intel ? If someone spent 150€ or more on a fancontroller do you really think they would like to pay more for the software for it ?


----------



## GTXJackBauer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> are you using a software sensor by chance ? if you are it is possible you are hitting the timeout / fallback temps ?


I do use software sensors under Sensors tab in the Software temperature sensors but not as a source. I use one of my water temp sensors as my fan and pump curve source.

I had set up the boost thinking it would force the pump to start at that speed for those few seconds before the main settings kick in.

Here's what it looks like.


----------



## BoredErica

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> are you using a software sensor by chance ? if you are it is possible you are hitting the timeout / fallback temps ?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> it should, most of these pumps ( that are sold with that top ) are the rev 2 but the only way to tell is to look at the sicker on the back, if it says lowra it is rev 1 ifit says ek it is rev 2 , if rev 1 you need the diva mod, that said it was not eks implementation it was xylems


I checked the stickers on the side of the pump combo unit and it doesn't say anything about revisions.


----------



## vvv850

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Darkwizzie*
> 
> I checked the stickers on the side of the pump combo unit and it doesn't say anything about revisions.


It's the latest G2 version with improved PWM control. It's compatible with AQ6


----------



## BoredErica

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vvv850*
> 
> It's the latest G2 version with improved PWM control. It's compatible with AQ6


Orly?

How'd you tell?


----------



## Shoggy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Darkwizzie*
> 
> Does everyone use a water temperature sensor and set up their fan curves with respect to the water temperature? If that's really the way to go for sure then I'll make adjustments to the loop so it can be set up. Would just going off of CPU or GPU temps be fine? If I'm setting Aquasuite to read off of Hwinfo work? I guess getting that to work I would still at the very least need HWinfo on all of the time even if Aquasuite doesn't. I don't want software open all of the time on my computer.


Controlling the fans by the water temperature makes the most sense in my opinion. Many customers use a curve controller to do that but I assume many just do it because they easily understand how it works. In my opnion the set point controller is the better deal. I use that since years without any issues. You set the your desired temperature and the device does the rest.

I can not recommend to control your fans by the temperature of the CPU or GPU because based on the load they jump up and down all the time and your fans would do the same. Let's say you start a larger programm which causes some load for about 10 seconds. The temperature would rise, the fan would speed up and a few moments later it slows down again. The result of that will be useless because in this short time frame the water temperature will stay almost the same.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cyber Locc*
> 
> So how far can I run an Aquabus cable, to a slave fan controller? To be able to control more fans and a pump on a external rad. Guessing Id say id need a minium of 4-5feet, Doable?


Should be no problem.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *outofmyheadyo*
> 
> Nevermind found an older version of aquasuite on my old drive, the ones they have availlable on their site are essentially pointless, 2016 version doesn`t allow you to change anything and the 2017 version requires a license to use, seriously aquacomputer, did you take some moneygrab lessons from intel ? If someone spent 150€ or more on a fancontroller do you really think they would like to pay more for the software for it ?


No idea what kind of problem you have there but 2016 and 2017 are basically the same. The only difference at the moment is that 2017 features the integrated hardware monitor and the web-based import/export features. The license system has been discussed a while ago. You can start reading here if you want to know more about it. And also this one is highly recommend since it addresses several questions from customers.


----------



## vvv850

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Darkwizzie*
> 
> Orly?
> 
> How'd you tell?


First, the combo comes with the G2 since April 2016.

Second, as Mega Man said, if you had the sticker with Lowara, then it would have been the older generation, but as you have the EK sticker, then it's the latest gen.


----------



## Mega Man

I think the licensing system is fine, the software has been getting great updates, and you DON'T HAVE to buy anything separate.

And the glitches that had been found for both free and upgraded users, wow.

The only potential issue is lets says you use 2 aquaero in your build, one is eligible for 2018 and the other 2017. You upgrade firmware on both to 2018, end up rebuilding with 1 aquaero per system and 2 systems.

But the firmware is not downgradeable.

That would be the issue I would have


----------



## Cyber Locc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> I think the licensing system is fine, the software has been getting great updates, and you DON'T HAVE to buy anything separate.
> 
> And the glitches that had been found for both free and upgraded users, wow.
> 
> The only potential issue is lets says you use 2 aquaero in your build, one is eligible for 2018 and the other 2017. You upgrade firmware on both to 2018, end up rebuilding with 1 aquaero per system and 2 systems.
> 
> But the firmware is not downgradeable.
> 
> That would be the issue I would have


You wouldnt have to downgrade, nor buy 2018 lincense for 2 AQs.

So the lincense is tied to the AQ, however once it activates the software the software no longer needs the AQ.

So you could run a USB from AQ with the 18 lincense, activate, then disconnect.

Some one had brought that up on the software discussion. Except he had 6 pcs all with AQs, another good idea, that was made. Is buy a desktop Vision or a USB power hub or something. Use that to store your lincenses, so only upgrade it to 2018, then activate all PCs you want with the aquasuite.

I do agree though the lincense implementation is a little strange. How else could they do it though? If they gave you a lincense to use on Aquasuite, it would be given away and no one would buy it.


----------



## Mega Man




----------



## Cyber Locc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*


Umm the point was what then? From what I gathered the point was the second couldn't activate 2018 edition? Why else would you care about a downgrade?

You must speak another language as every time you say something, its always "Not read right, Over the Head, Not what you were saying" Yet myself and everyone that PMs me and tells me they read the same thing from what you said.


----------



## Mega Man

Do you have to downgrade the firm ware if you can no longer use 2018.

I have yet to see a firm ware that can be downgraded in the aquaero.

That would then force you to purchase a license.

That would be my only concern


----------



## Cyber Locc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> Do you have to downgrade the firm ware if you can no longer use 2018.
> 
> I have yet to see a firm ware that can be downgraded in the aquaero.
> 
> That would then force you to purchase a license.
> 
> That would be my only concern


You dont have to purchase another license is what I was saying. The Software only does 1 time license check, on first run. IT searches for AQ hardware, once it finds it it activates, then the software is permanently activated, and you can remove the licensed AQ 6.

This was why the guy with 6 systems was told it would be easier to buy a cheap AQ product, like a vision table, store his license on there. Then hook the vision to each PC activate then move it to the next.

The best bet in my eyes, would be to sell us a AQ usb device, that does nothing but whole license. Or hold the license to an account, with email (though then internet access would be needed) and allow the license to be used on all your AQ devices, registered to your email.

Anyway, what I said first stands, if its just a second build, just hook the AQ with the license for a min, activate and unhook. If it is more than 2, then I would look into the Vision/Powerbus/ect idea.

EDIT: Actually I take above back, there is an easier way. What I said was discussed in the AQ forums, licensing thread. However, something shoggy said caught my attention. The license key on the box. There is a manual key entry for the license, so once you buy a license you write your key down. Then when you move an AQ over, you input the license and you now have a license to use AQ 2018, on the second pc as well.

All that said, that is assuming they do not change the way it currently works. If they decide to make a change where its 15 or whatever a year per PC, I could see that being off putting and alot of users may shy from the system.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cyber Locc*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> Do you have to downgrade the firm ware if you can no longer use 2018.
> 
> I have yet to see a firm ware that can be downgraded in the aquaero.
> 
> That would then force you to purchase a license.
> 
> That would be my only concern
> 
> 
> 
> You dont have to purchase another license is what I was saying. The Software only does 1 time license check, on first run. IT searches for AQ hardware, once it finds it it activates,
Click to expand...

i understand how it works. and unlike our other conversations i am not trying to play a technicality, you are. i really am not as dense as you seem to think i am
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cyber Locc*
> 
> then the software is permanently activated, and you can remove the licensed AQ 6.


which is unethical and exactly what i dont want to do
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cyber Locc*
> 
> This was why the guy with 6 systems was told it would be easier to buy a cheap AQ product, like a vision table, store his license on there. Then hook the vision to each PC activate then move it to the next.


great, i dont want to. what i want to do is know if shoggy will make the firmware downgradable so we dont have to play the system, and are able to support AC monetarily like the system was designed as some people believe in paying for what you use. and being ehtical about it. they ( ac didnt impose the licensing system to be a jerk, they did it so they could support r and d in an ever more difficult programing world, some of us want to support them )

however if we choose NOT to use that version we should have the ability to downgrade firmware ! so that we are not forced to buy another license or another product with said license
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cyber Locc*
> 
> The best bet in my eyes, would be to sell us a AQ usb device, that does nothing but whole license. Or hold the license to an account, with email (though then internet access would be needed) and allow the license to be used on all your AQ devices, registered to your email.


great, maybe you should send that to shoggy, but i dont care what you think about this.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cyber Locc*
> 
> Anyway, what I said first stands, if its just a second build, just hook the AQ with the license for a min, activate and unhook. If it is more than 2, then I would look into the Vision/Powerbus/ect idea.


i dont want to
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cyber Locc*
> 
> EDIT: Actually I take above back, there is an easier way. What I said was discussed in the AQ forums, licensing thread. However, something shoggy said caught my attention. The license key on the box. There is a manual key entry for the license, so once you buy a license you write your key down. Then when you move an AQ over, you input the license and you now have a license to use AQ 2018, on the second pc as well.
> 
> All that said, that is assuming they do not change the way it currently works. If they decide to make a change where its 15 or whatever a year per PC, I could see that being off putting and alot of users may shy from the system.


still dont care


----------



## Exilon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> If you want to control pump speed, I'd suggest a 2 point control, a low speed for near idle conditions and cooler ambients, and a normal speed, for everything else.


Thanks for the advice. I setup a two-point controller based on my radiator section inlet/outlet temperature delta. 1.3C/0.2C works nicely and doesn't cause any oscillations. Theoretically it should start the pump as soon as CPU/GPU dumps heat into the loop, and turn it down after



Pump turns on 1-2 seconds after system load, turns off 2-3 seconds after going back to idle. If I wanted quicker response times w/o false positives I guess I'd have to put sensors on the water block inlet/outlets themselves... Soon


----------



## Exilon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> Controlling the fans by the water temperature makes the most sense in my opinion. Many customers use a curve controller to do that but I assume many just do it because they easily understand how it works. In my opnion the set point controller is the better deal. I use that since years without any issues. You set the your desired temperature and the device does the rest.


Shoggy, can you share your PID tuning for the fans? I've tried fastest, but the temperature still overshoots by 2-3C for a few minutes before settling down.


----------



## vvv850

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Exilon*
> 
> Shoggy, can you share your PID tuning for the fans? I've tried fastest, but the temperature still overshoots by 2-3C for a few minutes before settling down.


It really depends on your heat dissipation capacity. Having a too small rad space will determine how elastic is the water temp fluctuation. Even the fastest custom PID setting won't help much. The solution would be to reduce the target temp.


----------



## Mega Man

one thing i really like about MSI AM4 ( probably others too ) mobo fan controls is they let me tune ( not as much as i would like ) a time delay for both prior to spin up and spin down. i wish the aquaero had that ability

that said with air-water delta it is not needed really


----------



## Shoggy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Exilon*
> 
> Shoggy, can you share your PID tuning for the fans? I've tried fastest, but the temperature still overshoots by 2-3C for a few minutes before settling down.


I am using an antique aquaero 3.07 from 2004. That thing does not even have PID settings


----------



## Rdoxey

Hi Everyone,

Does anyone know if this connection can be connected to the Aquaero 6 XT in order to power it. I currently do not have any molex connection available but I do have plenty of SATA.


----------



## Mega Man

All it needs is 12vdc and 5vdc, and a ground

Can you do that, yes


----------



## Shoggy

Might depend on what you want to connect to the aquaero because you should keep in mind that SATA connectors are not made for higher loads.


----------



## Captain4W

I'm sure I'm going to get flamed here but I'm new so here it goes. I'm thinking about getting an XT but I have a few questions... I need to run 2 pumps and 4 fan channels, how do I do that with the XT? Secondly, I have already purchased PWM pumps (Switch MCP655-PWM-Motor) are they compatible with the XT?


----------



## M-Sauce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rdoxey*
> 
> Hi Everyone,
> 
> Does anyone know if this connection can be connected to the Aquaero 6 XT in order to power it. I currently do not have any molex connection available but I do have plenty of SATA.


Besides the reduced amperage limit on SATA power connectors, that plug might be too large and interfere with the drive bay mounts of the Aquaero. The molex plug on the pcb of the Aquaero is pretty close to the edge of the unit.

My fans are hooked to powered hubs and only receive PWM control from the Aquaero. My pumps also get power from the PSU directly, so I have very little power flowing through the unit.

If you power your fans and pump from the unit though, you could end up melting the SATA plug. That is why the unit uses a 4 pin peripheral plug.


----------



## Cyber Locc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Captain4W*
> 
> I'm sure I'm going to get flamed here but I'm new so here it goes. I'm thinking about getting an XT but I have a few questions... I need to run 2 pumps and 4 fan channels, how do I do that with the XT? Secondly, I have already purchased PWM pumps (Switch MCP655-PWM-Motor) are they compatible with the XT?


No Flame lol.

Yes that is possible with XT and a power adjust, the XT only has 4 channels, want more need power adjust.

The Pumps will work, but likely need diva mod, very likely.

If you do not mind me asking, Why do you need 4 fan channels? Seems a little odd to me, never did get the point of those 8 fan channel controllers and such. Just Curious.

See for me, it be like 1 channel for rad fans, 1 channel for case fans, 1 channel for some fringe fans (HDD fans, Ram Fans, ect.) I see no reason to ever need more than 3, outside of maybe an external rad, in which case you would want a PA anyway. Again just me and that is why I'm curious







.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Captain4W*
> 
> I'm sure I'm going to get flamed here but I'm new so here it goes. I'm thinking about getting an XT but I have a few questions... I need to run 2 pumps and 4 fan channels, how do I do that with the XT? Secondly, I have already purchased PWM pumps (Switch MCP655-PWM-Motor) are they compatible with the XT?


you will never, you need to learn, feel free to ask. !

possible, but i need more info.

do you need pwm fans or voltage control ?

if voltage control you can easily buy a power adj, if not and you need pwm you will need a xt and a lt. but there are ways around that. you will probably need to diva mod the pumps


----------



## Captain4W

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> you will never, you need to learn, feel free to ask. !
> 
> possible, but i need more info.
> 
> do you need pwm fans or voltage control ?
> 
> if voltage control you can easily buy a power adj, if not and you need pwm you will need a xt and a lt. but there are ways around that. you will probably need to diva mod the pumps


I have 21 fans all 3 wire voltage control, I also have 2 SPLITTY9s coming, but would like to use 4 channels to control the fans (8 on ch1, 8 on ch2, 4 on ch3, and 1 on ch4). Both of my pumps are PWM and I'd like them on separate channels. I already looked up the parts for the Diva Mod and I'm going to order them... Funny part is that I can get them almost as cheep from Amazon as Radioshack (we don't have a local radio shack) but I'll have enough parts to do about 50 pumps.


----------



## Mega Man

that is cause radio shack is now owned by sprint iirc

radio shack died as americans dont want to DIY it for the most part.


----------



## Chunky_Chimp

Radioshack is now defunct. All stores that weren't converted to Sprint stores have now closed. I'd even seen a job listing last year for a Radioshack downtown that said, word for word, "Yes, we still exist!". I used to love going there because every time I did they had some cool new thing I wanted that I couldn't buy yet. If they'd stuck it out or had found a competent owner to help them stick it out, I'd load up on stuff from them next year for my next build since I'm finally working full time now; I'd do it this year but apart from maybe Threadripper and a couple more hard drives, there's nothing I want right now. Regardless, sad to see RS go.


----------



## Cyber Locc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chunky_Chimp*
> 
> Radioshack is now defunct. All stores that weren't converted to Sprint stores have now closed. I'd even seen a job listing last year for a Radioshack downtown that said, word for word, "Yes, we still exist!". I used to love going there because every time I did they had some cool new thing I wanted that I couldn't buy yet. If they'd stuck it out or had found a competent owner to help them stick it out, I'd load up on stuff from them next year for my next build since I'm finally working full time now; I'd do it this year but apart from maybe Threadripper and a couple more hard drives, there's nothing I want right now. Regardless, sad to see RS go.


I wouldnt say they are defunct they still exist just few and far between. I have one right next door, that is really busy all the time.


----------



## Captain4W

We have a Frys that I could get the parts from but it would cost me more in gas than it would to buy all the extra parts. The good thing is that anyone that needs to do the Diva Mod can hit me up and I'll send them the parts needed.


----------



## Chunky_Chimp

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cyber Locc*
> 
> I wouldnt say they are defunct they still exist just few and far between. I have one right next door, that is really busy all the time.


Hm, interesting. I just checked again and it looks like they decided against closing every single store, though there are less than 100 company-owned ones left, most of them along/near the eastern seaboard. There seems to be a fair number of independently-operated franchises, as well, though I don't know where they are. Still, there are so few open now compared to how many were open, and I do hope something like Radioshack pops up in the future and becomes as widespread as RS used to be.


----------



## pphx459

Hi All,

I was reading awhile back about the issues with Silent Wing 3 PWM's, has this been sorted? Looking to pick these up.

Thanks!


----------



## hadesfactor

Hey guys, so I am just about finished with my new build which means the fun part of OCing and configuring the system. I was planning on using a breadboard as an extension for the temp sensors just like a fan splitter seeing as though 30cm is never long enough to actually reach the AQ6 lol. So my question is has anyone ever done this (im sure someone has) and/or would there be any drawback such as loss in sensitivity etc. Im using 16g wire and the connectors are obviously going to be crimped I just don't know if having multiple connection before it hits the AQ will have a negative effect.....Im guessing it should as it's essentially like adding a cable ext but idk.


----------



## pphx459

For what its worth, I'm using bitspower temp stop fittings and it's 900mm (~3ft), seems to be working just fine.


----------



## hadesfactor

Awesome!...thanks then Im guessing it should be fine.


----------



## ruffhi

Just don't splice two temp sensors together. That seems to throw them off.


----------



## WiLd FyeR

Is there an English version on how to update the driver? I forget Aquero version I have.


----------



## Traches

Hey guys, I'm having a hard time getting the software temperature sensors to work. I have an older Aquaero 5 LT, but I just purchased a 2018 license for aquasuite. It worked for awhile using open hardware monitor, but stopped a few months ago and I'm just now getting around to troubleshooting it.

No matter what I do I can't get aquasuite to see system temperatures. When I look at my data options, I see my Aquaero and all its sensors, but nothing else. I've tried open hardware monitor, HWiNFO, and I double checked that the built in hardware monitor options are all checked as well. I'd rather not do a full reset because I have several temperature sensors plugged in and it's tricky to remember which are which, but if it has a good chance of fixing things I can give it a shot.

Any advice? Thanks!


----------



## vvv850

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Traches*
> 
> Hey guys, I'm having a hard time getting the software temperature sensors to work. I have an older Aquaero 5 LT, but I just purchased a 2018 license for aquasuite. It worked for awhile using open hardware monitor, but stopped a few months ago and I'm just now getting around to troubleshooting it.
> 
> No matter what I do I can't get aquasuite to see system temperatures. When I look at my data options, I see my Aquaero and all its sensors, but nothing else. I've tried open hardware monitor, HWiNFO, and I double checked that the built in hardware monitor options are all checked as well. I'd rather not do a full reset because I have several temperature sensors plugged in and it's tricky to remember which are which, but if it has a good chance of fixing things I can give it a shot.
> 
> Any advice? Thanks!


Most likely the Aquasuite service is not starting. If on Windows 10, delay the service and should fix that but first check that this is case.


----------



## Traches

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vvv850*
> 
> Most likely the Aquasuite service is not starting. If on Windows 10, delay the service and should fix that but first check that this is case.


Service is definitely running, but I tried stopping and restarting it from services.msc-- still not working.


----------



## vvv850

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Traches*
> 
> Service is definitely running, but I tried stopping and restarting it from services.msc-- still not working.


Anything odd in Windows event viewer?


----------



## Cyber Locc

Okay Guys going to get hella complicated with a strange idea now lol.

So I think I may have found a fix for my issues with the AQ Screen dilemma, So I know the AQ can be connected to a PC via USB, however is there a way to hook 2 pcs to the AQ? Even if I slave/Master mode it?

I know it was suggested to use a laptop, to control the AQ. However my new idea is to use a second computer all together, a small ITX with a cheap cpu, and use that to control the AQ and have a 5 or 7 inch display mounted to the case with the AQ software.

So now the question is, Can the AQ Software be ran on linux? Is there a hardware monitor screen mode like Aida has, and can I hook up 2 pcs, Even if it in a slave master setup?

I could then use the small PC, for the master, and that could run my waterchiller, my external rads, and case lighting, and then the Second aq6 could be inside of the actual test bench and control its internals.

To give a little more Idea of what is going on.


I can stuff a small ITX build on any of those shelves. (well not the top or the Water Chiller area, but the rad area or the PSU area I defiantly can.) Then I can use the AQ remote as a Keyboard for the ITX system. And a small 7 inch or so display.

EDIT: Another question, and Im sure the answer is no but figured id ask. Is the temp sensors for Aquaero able to deal in subzero?


----------



## Traches

Not that I can see, but I'm not so good at reading it. EVGA precision spams an error (PXSW10_x64.exe), but it's unrelated as far as I can tell. There's cryptic error I'm seeing spammed a bit, says the source is DistributedCOM:

Code:



Code:


The application-specific permission settings do not grant Local Activation permission for the COM Server application with CLSID 
{6B3B8D23-FA8D-40B9-8DBD-B950333E2C52}
 and APPID 
{4839DDB7-58C2-48F5-8283-E1D1807D0D7D}
 to the user NT AUTHORITY\LOCAL SERVICE SID (S-1-5-19) from address LocalHost (Using LRPC) running in the application container Unavailable SID (Unavailable). This security permission can be modified using the Component Services administrative tool.

If I stop and start the aquacomputer service I get information logs that say it stopped and started successfully, and nothing else new.


----------



## war4peace

My Aquaero LT has finally arrived, together with a flow meter from Aquacomputer as well.
Started building my new PC, but I have a few issues.

1. The flow sensor came without a cable (really, Aquacomputer?) however the controller itself came with a "RPM cable" - can I use the RPM cable to get a reading from the flow sensor? Yes, I have noticed after receiving the item that the cable was not included and should ahve been purchased separately, which is really weird, I mean seriously!
2. If I use a PWM splitter cable, would that help in controlling both pumps in the loop at the same time? My pumps are mounted in a dual-pump serial configuration, so having them run at same speed is a must.
3. Where do you usually mount the Aquaero 6 LT in your case, in such a way that it is not visible and all screws are mounted?


----------



## jura11

@war4peace

Hi there

1. Yes you can use RPM cable which is essentially similar to Aquabus cable, I'm using same cable and extended that cable with simple fan extension

2. If pumps are same then this shouldn't be problem just not sure what Amperage have pumps just double check that

3. Mounting LT really depends on yours preference, I would put somewhere you can have easy access and where you can route temperature sensor for ambient and inside the case that's how I've set mine, but I've XT

Hope this helps

Thanks, Jura


----------



## docsys

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Traches*
> 
> I'd rather not do a full reset because I have several temperature sensors plugged in and it's tricky to remember which are which, but if it has a good chance of fixing things I can give it a shot.
> 
> Any advice? Thanks!


You can check which sensor you're dealing with by simply holding it between your fingers and watch temperatures in Aquasuite. The temperature which is rising belongs to the sensor between your fingers. Then you can label the sensor with a sticker or something like that.

Hope that helps.


----------



## GTXJackBauer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *docsys*
> 
> You can check which sensor you're dealing with by simply holding it between your fingers and watch temperatures in Aquasuite. The temperature which is rising belongs to the sensor between your fingers. Then you can label the sensor with a sticker or something like that.
> 
> Hope that helps.


Great tip!







I've done this as well.


----------



## ruffhi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *docsys*
> 
> You can check which sensor you're dealing with by simply holding it between your fingers and watch temperatures in Aquasuite. The temperature which is rising belongs to the sensor between your fingers. Then you can label the sensor with a sticker or something like that.


Note that this tip obviously doesn't work for zombie PC builders ... or other undead.


----------



## Traches

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *war4peace*
> 
> My Aquaero LT has finally arrived, together with a flow meter from Aquacomputer as well.
> Started building my new PC, but I have a few issues.
> 
> 3. Where do you usually mount the Aquaero 6 LT in your case, in such a way that it is not visible and all screws are mounted?


There are drive bay mounting brackets you can find which cost about 10 bucks, that's where mine is.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *docsys*
> 
> You can check which sensor you're dealing with by simply holding it between your fingers and watch temperatures in Aquasuite. The temperature which is rising belongs to the sensor between your fingers. Then you can label the sensor with a sticker or something like that.
> 
> Hope that helps.


Yep! That's how I did it the first time. I have a bunch of sensors plugged in though, and they're not easy to reach, which is why I don't really care to do it again if I don't have to.


----------



## war4peace

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jura11*
> 
> @war4peace
> 
> Hi there
> 
> 1. Yes you can use RPM cable which is essentially similar to Aquabus cable, I'm using same cable and extended that cable with simple fan extension
> 
> 2. If pumps are same then this shouldn't be problem just not sure what Amperage have pumps just double check that
> 
> 3. Mounting LT really depends on yours preference, I would put somewhere you can have easy access and where you can route temperature sensor for ambient and inside the case that's how I've set mine, but I've XT
> 
> Hope this helps
> 
> Thanks, Jura


Thank you, not worried about pump amperage because I connect them with Molex directly to the PSU. Only the PWM cables go to the Aquaero.
I didn't want an XT or anything with 5.25" bay because I hate those bays with a passion. Aiming to control everything via software


----------



## B3L13V3R

Hi Everyone...

Well I give up on searching for these answers. I think Googles data centers have given up on me as well. But I'd be willing to swallow my pride if this is an easier answer than what I've seen so far.

I'm stoked to have found an *Aquaero 5 Pro* that I bought used for about $80 with the Water Block, LED, and Black Front Plate recently ($187 new). It's in near perfect condition outside of the block needing some cleaning. Everything is running pretty well for my not having any experience with them. It's a little overkill for my rig the way it is now, but I will most likely be changing to a new Parvum case, and replacing the Bitpower and EK stuff for a pure AC equipped water system soon. I will say though, that now that I have one, I will never NOT have one in a water cooled rig again and will likely move to the newest aquaero when I do the changes.

So...

After connecting my pump (Swiftech MCP655 PWM) to the Fan Connector 4, I'm not seeing an *RPM* reading for the Pump, I see many others have RPM for a non-AC pump.
Under Advance Settings, should the pump be *PWM controlled* (it's quieter when selected), or *power*? The manual states, _"For PWM fan, select "Outputs" --> "Fans" --> "Fan 4" from the menu and set "Control Mode" to "PWM-regulated"_. But that is stating, "Fans", not Pump. But, before that, the manual states, _"Maximum power is dynamically limited through temperature monitoring"_.



Would someone please have a look at my Controllers, and tell me if this is correct. I keep seeing others saying that curves on Pumps are not good. But they never give a thorough explanation of how to set up what they use or suggest using.



This seems to be working based on my log.



And finally, how should I be measuring CPU temp generally? CPU Package or something else? I want to have a pretty accurate view as to what Ambient (a sensor discretely hanging under the font of the case), Water Temp (and waterproof sensor inside my res until I swing for the inline or better), and compare that to CPU temps under different loads. Software monitoring is so sketchy and never agrees most of the time.

Here's part of my Overview Page for reference:



Hopefully these questions make some sense to someone patient enough to answer or work them out with me. I have more, but these are the current burning ones...


----------



## GTXJackBauer

You'll need the Diva Mod in order for this to work.


----------



## Cyber Locc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B3L13V3R*
> 
> Hi Everyone...
> 
> Well I give up on searching for these answers. I think Googles data centers have given up on me as well. But I'd be willing to swallow my pride if this is an easier answer than what I've seen so far.
> 
> I'm stoked to have found an *Aquaero 5 Pro* that I bought used for about $80 with the Water Block, LED, and Black Front Plate recently ($187 new). It's in near perfect condition outside of the block needing some cleaning. Everything is running pretty well for my not having any experience with them. It's a little overkill for my rig the way it is now, but I will most likely be changing to a new Parvum case, and replacing the Bitpower and EK stuff for a pure AC equipped water system soon. I will say though, that now that I have one, I will never NOT have one in a water cooled rig again and will likely move to the newest aquaero when I do the changes.
> 
> So...
> 
> After connecting my pump (Swiftech MCP655 PWM) to the Fan Connector 4, I'm not seeing an *RPM* reading for the Pump, I see many others have RPM for a non-AC pump.
> Under Advance Settings, should the pump be *PWM controlled* (it's quieter when selected), or *power*? The manual states, _"For PWM fan, select "Outputs" --> "Fans" --> "Fan 4" from the menu and set "Control Mode" to "PWM-regulated"_. But that is stating, "Fans", not Pump. But, before that, the manual states, _"Maximum power is dynamically limited through temperature monitoring"_.
> 
> 
> 
> Would someone please have a look at my Controllers, and tell me if this is correct. I keep seeing others saying that curves on Pumps are not good. But they never give a thorough explanation of how to set up what they use or suggest using.
> 
> 
> 
> This seems to be working based on my log.
> 
> 
> 
> And finally, how should I be measuring CPU temp generally? CPU Package or something else? I want to have a pretty accurate view as to what Ambient (a sensor discretely hanging under the font of the case), Water Temp (and waterproof sensor inside my res until I swing for the inline or better), and compare that to CPU temps under different loads. Software monitoring is so sketchy and never agrees most of the time.
> 
> Here's part of my Overview Page for reference:
> 
> 
> 
> Hopefully these questions make some sense to someone patient enough to answer or work them out with me. I have more, but these are the current burning ones...


Okay

1. The pumps would have to be in PWM mode. As they are PWM pumps, not sure why no readout maybe because of 2. That said You can not RPM control a pump as it isnt getting power from the 3 pin, it only gets rpm sense and PWM feed.

2. You most likely need Diva Mod for those pumps to work with Aquaero (is swiftech you do).

3. Ahh, the dilemma of the PWM Pump, there is no point. Set your pump to whatever speed it gets 1gpm at and leave it alone, or if you want 1.5 set it there and be done. D5 has no reason to ramp up on temps and your chart will equal horrid cooling. The only thing I would curve the pumps too is, Flow Rate and even then, it would be worthless unless its a bench build where hardware is constantly changing. Yes the pump speed being under 1gpm would increase temps, over doesn't decrease very much, and d5s are silent even at max, again no point.

4. Aida 64 package, or put a temp probe on your block. Read Block, off to the side not on the IHS!

Edit to clear up: Your curve is bad, because your pump at 20% will have horrid flow, if this is the build I see in your sig, you have at least 4 PSI Drop in that loop, and your pump can do high 4 low 5 at max speed at 1gpm. 25% pump speed isn't getting anywhere close to that, With D5s set it to at least 4 (80%) and call it day.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Traches*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *vvv850*
> 
> Most likely the Aquasuite service is not starting. If on Windows 10, delay the service and should fix that but first check that this is case.
> 
> 
> 
> Service is definitely running, but I tried stopping and restarting it from services.msc-- still not working.
Click to expand...

1 never use hw monitor, use adia or hwinfo

2 screen shots please, please include hw info settings
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *war4peace*
> 
> My Aquaero LT has finally arrived, together with a flow meter from Aquacomputer as well.
> Started building my new PC, but I have a few issues.
> 
> 1. The flow sensor came without a cable (really, Aquacomputer?) however the controller itself came with a "RPM cable" - can I use the RPM cable to get a reading from the flow sensor? Yes, I have noticed after receiving the item that the cable was not included and should ahve been purchased separately, which is really weird, I mean seriously!
> 2. If I use a PWM splitter cable, would that help in controlling both pumps in the loop at the same time? My pumps are mounted in a dual-pump serial configuration, so having them run at same speed is a must.
> 3. Where do you usually mount the Aquaero 6 LT in your case, in such a way that it is not visible and all screws are mounted?


1 yep, batteries sold separately.

I agree they should be bundled and I would pay extra to have it

2 yes you can, you don't have to run your pumps at the same rpm you don't need same pumps or anything

3 really depends on case
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B3L13V3R*
> 
> Hi Everyone...
> 
> Well I give up on searching for these answers. I think Googles data centers have given up on me as well. But I'd be willing to swallow my pride if this is an easier answer than what I've seen so far.
> 
> I'm stoked to have found an *Aquaero 5 Pro* that I bought used for about $80 with the Water Block, LED, and Black Front Plate recently ($187 new). It's in near perfect condition outside of the block needing some cleaning. Everything is running pretty well for my not having any experience with them. It's a little overkill for my rig the way it is now, but I will most likely be changing to a new Parvum case, and replacing the Bitpower and EK stuff for a pure AC equipped water system soon. I will say though, that now that I have one, I will never NOT have one in a water cooled rig again and will likely move to the newest aquaero when I do the changes.
> 
> So...
> 
> After connecting my pump (Swiftech MCP655 PWM) to the Fan Connector 4, I'm not seeing an *RPM* reading for the Pump, I see many others have RPM for a non-AC pump.
> Under Advance Settings, should the pump be *PWM controlled* (it's quieter when selected), or *power*? The manual states, _"For PWM fan, select "Outputs" --> "Fans" --> "Fan 4" from the menu and set "Control Mode" to "PWM-regulated"_. But that is stating, "Fans", not Pump. But, before that, the manual states, _"Maximum power is dynamically limited through temperature monitoring"_.
> 
> 
> 
> Would someone please have a look at my Controllers, and tell me if this is correct. I keep seeing others saying that curves on Pumps are not good. But they never give a thorough explanation of how to set up what they use or suggest using.
> 
> 
> 
> This seems to be working based on my log.
> 
> 
> 
> And finally, how should I be measuring CPU temp generally? CPU Package or something else? I want to have a pretty accurate view as to what Ambient (a sensor discretely hanging under the font of the case), Water Temp (and waterproof sensor inside my res until I swing for the inline or better), and compare that to CPU temps under different loads. Software monitoring is so sketchy and never agrees most of the time.
> 
> Here's part of my Overview Page for reference:
> 
> 
> 
> Hopefully these questions make some sense to someone patient enough to answer or work them out with me. I have more, but these are the current burning ones...


----------



## B3L13V3R

Quote:


> 1. The pumps would have to be in PWM mode. As they are PWM pumps, not sure why no readout maybe because of 2. That said You can not RPM control a pump as it isnt getting power from the 3 pin, it only gets rpm sense and PWM feed.


Very good... I was just hoping for a read, not an RPM control, for clarity.

Quote:


> 2. You most likely need Diva Mod for those pumps to work with Aquaero (is swiftech you do).


I saw that in searching for answers and learning about the Aquaero, but it's not something I have the interest to mess with.

Quote:


> 3. Ahh, the dilemma of the PWM Pump, there is no point. Set your pump to whatever speed it gets 1gpm at and leave it alone, or if you want 1.5 set it there and be done. D5 has no reason to ramp up on temps and your chart will equal horrid cooling. The only thing I would curve the pumps too is, Flow Rate and even then, it would be worthless unless its a bench build where hardware is constantly changing. Yes the pump speed being under 1gpm would drastically increase temps, over doesn't decrease very much, and d5s are silent even at max, again no point.


I'll look up what 1 - 1.5gpm is for this D5 and try that.

Quote:


> 4. Aida 64 package, or put a temp probe on your block. Read Block, off to the side not on the IHS!


Ha! Yeah, once I figure out how to get AIDA working with Aquasuite, I'll just use that, and compare that a CPU block reading with that later. Will be an easy and fun thing to see.

Quote:


> Edit to clear up: Your curve is bad, because your pump at 20% will have horrid flow, if this is the build I see in your sig, you have at least 4 PSI Drop in that loop, and your pump can do high 4 low 5 at max speed at 1gpm. 25% pump speed isn't getting anywhere close to that, With D5s set it to at least 4 (80%) and call it day.


Testing that now... assuming I use a Preset Value controller type?


----------



## M-Sauce

Nothing wrong with having your pumps on a curve. You don't need 1gpm. Every loop is different.

I have my dual pump unit on a curve. It reduces wear and noise. Under low temp loads (water less than 20c), the pump is at 70%, which gives me around 1.5lpm or .40gpm. Works great and extremely quiet. At idle, if I speed up the pump then I see no real temp gains.

Under load, if the water reaches 35, then the pumps max out at around 95%, which gives me around 3.1lpm.

I've tested max Load at 100% (which gives me about 3.8lpm or 1gpm) and all I get is higher water temp for nearly the same hardware temps.

What I'm saying is every loop is different. With the Aquaero, you can test all of this out yourself and reach the best settings for your configuration.


----------



## war4peace

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> 2 yes you can, you don't have to run your pumps at the same rpm you don't need same pumps or anything


Are you sure? I have the 2x EK Revo 5 pumps mounted in the EK-XTOP Revo Dual D5 Serial. m pretty sure they have to run at same speed.


----------



## Cyber Locc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B3L13V3R*
> 
> Very good... I was just hoping for a read, not an RPM control, for clarity.


Ahh ya, I dont know if that would require the Diva Mod or not? But to control them with PWM defiantly does and that is the only way to adjust the speed.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B3L13V3R*
> 
> I'll look up what 1 - 1.5gpm is for this D5 and try that.


Best you will be able to do from that standpoint is go by the restriction of your loop. And the PSI your D5 can put out, its 4.72 with a stock top and 4.95 for a average custom top. Now lets math it out







. Edit: you have a custom top, but a bitspower one, which is actually worse performance than the stock one. So we will go with 4.75, being nice.
Swiftech MCR-QPs - .30 PSI each .60 total
EK Supremacy .8 PSI
EK 670 Blocks* .70 PSI each 2.1 Total (They appear to be in parallel when you had 2, still the case?)
Other: (fittings, tube, ect)** 1psi

If the Cards are in Serial:
Total PSI Drop, is 4.5, so you would need to run your D5 with stock top, at about 95% speed for it to be at 1gpm. If you have a custom top, likely around 90%.

IF the cards are in Parallel:
Total PSI Drop, is 3.1. so you could run your d5 at 66% speed at achieve 1gpm, anything more is icing.

Now all those percentages are rough, and from a "Perfect world scenario" Where in a perfect world all those numbers scale nicely with percentages which is far from reality but its as close as we can get without a flow meter.

I hope that helps some.
* using the numbers for 780 blocks as cant find data for 670 blcoks though its likely to be the same or similar.
** you got a lot of 90s and stuff going on there, plus tubing and all.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M-Sauce*
> 
> Nothing wrong with having your pumps on a curve. You don't need 1gpm. Every loop is different.


Thats true, every loop is different. What isn't different is reality's. Reality is that 1gpm is optimal cooling, there is no disputing that. Its been tested time and time again, its science your loop doesn't change that sorry. Under .50gpm will yield terrible efficiency, Again, not opinions not "every Loop is different" That it is fact, take it to the bank.

The better thing to say here would have been every build or person is different. Your desires differ from mine or his and everyone else. However that doesn't make facts change, and the facts are above.

"You don't need 1 gpm" - No you do not, however if you want optimal cooling efficiency for all the money you spent you do NEED AT LEAST 1 gpm. People didn't just up and decide one day, lets tell everyone 1 gpm that sounds good, nice even number. That saying is based on facts and science, and renders your opinion useless.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M-Sauce*
> 
> I have my dual pump unit on a curve. It reduces wear and noise.


" It reduces wear" - False, it increases wear try again, the motor and bearing ramping up and down constantly increase wear, as does starting and stopping. Running a constant speed 24/7 reduces wear. Same with fans, and even your car.

"It reduces noise" - Sure, it defiantly does. And noise is subjective so that is up to each person how much that matters. Personally have D5s running in a test benches so open, full throttle, and properly decoupled cant hear them 3 feet away over 900 rpm fans, so to say d5s need to be quieter IMO is not true, but you may hear it better than me though, again this is subjective.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M-Sauce*
> 
> Under low temp loads (water less than 20c), the pump is at 70%, which gives me around 1.5lpm or .40gpm. Works great and extremely quiet. At idle, if I speed up the pump then I see no real temp gains.


Of course you dont see temp gains at idle, as the rads could passively cool at idle lol. There is no load, so the cooling isnt needed.

However there is still no point to decrease it, all you are is forcing the pump to ramp back up when there is a load. Outside of Noise, which like I said, I dont feel like D5s are loud even at max speed, and the majority of the world seems to feel the same. That said noise reasons are valid.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M-Sauce*
> 
> Under load, if the water reaches 35, then the pumps max out at around 95%, which gives me around 3.1lpm.
> 
> I've tested max Load at 100% (which gives me about 3.8lpm or 1gpm) and all I get is higher water temp for nearly the same hardware temps.


"all I get is higher water temp" - That is because the water is removing the heat, IE doing its job, BETTER.

"nearly the same hardware temps" Nearly the same? So Lower? LOL.

Are you trying to cool a PC or are you trying to cool water? I'm confused.

All I am saying, ooooh is give Science a Chance!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M-Sauce*
> 
> What I'm saying is every loop is different. With the Aquaero, you can test all of this out yourself and reach the best settings for your configuration.


Again this is false, Peoples needs/desires are different. Facts are not, most people are not trying to cool water, why you are is beyond me.

Now like I said, if the noise bothers you that makes sense. I personally do not feel like d5s at full throttle are loud at all, at least mine are not, I have 2 varios running at 5 2 feet beside me right now in an open bench, cant hear them at all over my extremely quiet fans. However noise is subjective and yours may be louder, or you have better hearing.

But to say "Higher Water Temps, and not much gains in Hardware temps" Is ridiculous, the water is suppose to get hot, as it is pulling heat from the components. If you want to spend thousands to cool water, thats your choice, but it doesn't seem very rational.


----------



## Cyber Locc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *war4peace*
> 
> Are you sure? I have the 2x EK Revo 5 pumps mounted in the EK-XTOP Revo Dual D5 Serial. m pretty sure they have to run at same speed.


He is correct, the second pump just adds more head pressure, double if they are the same speed. However a slower pump could be added and still provide gains.* Having those very close to each other like in a dual block, may cause stress on the pump over time. But with d5s they are built will and will still last a very long time.

Also due to the nature of PWM and speed control, the 2 pumps will never be exactly the same RPM, as there is variances, +/- 10% ect warnings on the items, setting 2 pumps at 90% will yield 2 different RPMs, so unless you are setting them individually and even then, odds of hitting the exact same RPM are unlikely.

* Proof of Concept. https://blog.craneengineering.net/operating-centrifugal-pumps-in-series-or-parallel


----------



## vvv850

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cyber Locc*
> 
> Okay Guys going to get hella complicated with a strange idea now lol.
> 
> So I think I may have found a fix for my issues with the AQ Screen dilemma, So I know the AQ can be connected to a PC via USB, however is there a way to hook 2 pcs to the AQ? Even if I slave/Master mode it?
> 
> I know it was suggested to use a laptop, to control the AQ. However my new idea is to use a second computer all together, a small ITX with a cheap cpu, and use that to control the AQ and have a 5 or 7 inch display mounted to the case with the AQ software.
> 
> So now the question is, Can the AQ Software be ran on linux? Is there a hardware monitor screen mode like Aida has, and can I hook up 2 pcs, Even if it in a slave master setup?
> 
> I could then use the small PC, for the master, and that could run my waterchiller, my external rads, and case lighting, and then the Second aq6 could be inside of the actual test bench and control its internals.
> 
> To give a little more Idea of what is going on.
> 
> 
> I can stuff a small ITX build on any of those shelves. (well not the top or the Water Chiller area, but the rad area or the PSU area I defiantly can.) Then I can use the AQ remote as a Keyboard for the ITX system. And a small 7 inch or so display.
> 
> EDIT: Another question, and Im sure the answer is no but figured id ask. Is the temp sensors for Aquaero able to deal in subzero?


I'm not sure I understand what you are trying to accomplish using a second pc to control a second AQ, but I can chime in on some aspects:
- once you slave an AQ you loose the USB control for it. You can only control the slave through the master.
- if you only need the second pc to monitor the AQ (without control) you can use the aquasuite web where you practically upload selected sensors or parameters and then access them through a web address from any device. The page updates itself every 15 seconds.



- if you really need to control the AQ from 2 different PCs, but not simultaneously, then an USB switch would do the job: eg: https://www.iogear.com/product/GUS402/


----------



## Cyber Locc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vvv850*
> 
> I'm not sure I understand what you are trying to accomplish using a second pc to control a second AQ, but I can chime in on some aspects:
> - once you slave an AQ you loose the USB control for it. You can only control the slave through the master.


Shoot







.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vvv850*
> 
> - if you only need the second pc to monitor the AQ (without control) you can use the aquasuite web where you practically upload selected sensors or parameters and then access them through a web address from any device. The page updates itself every 15 seconds.


I need control, and there will be times when neither PC is hooked to internet, its a bench build. I dont want to have to install Aqua suite on every board that goes on to it, that is why the second PC idea.

Really all I want from the slaves USB is the ability to pull temps. So like the PC on top has the slave, I need its temps, its CPU temp, GPU temp, ect ect, pulled into Aquasuite, while Aquasuite is actually being ran by the second PC.

Most ideal would be a Larger Vision, like 7 inch, and the ability to change AQ settings with the remote using the vision screen.

I know alot of, People would really really love something like that. I see people doing it with Aida and 5 inch ebay displays and there is always tons of people asking how they did that. So shoggy if your reading that a bigger vision, with control would sell like crazzy. The tiny screens are outdated, cool but over used, everyone is about the 5+ inches these days lol.

I mean look at smartphones, my first phone little tiny black and white screen, now I have a 5.6 inch amoled touchscreen. No one wants tiny screens anymore, I dont know why PC company's dont get that and keep giving us these itsy bitty screens that we are supposed to read from 5 feet away,


----------



## war4peace

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cyber Locc*
> 
> Having those very close to each other like in a dual block, may cause stress on the pump over time. But with d5s they are built will and will still last a very long time.
> 
> Also due to the nature of PWM and speed control, the 2 pumps will never be exactly the same RPM, as there is variances, +/- 10% ect warnings on the items, setting 2 pumps at 90% will yield 2 different RPMs, so unless you are setting them individually and even then, odds of hitting the exact same RPM are unlikely.


I know they will vary a bit, no problem with a bit of variance, but running them at wildly different speeds is generally to be avoided.


----------



## M-Sauce

Quote:


> "You don't need 1 gpm" - No you do not, however if you want optimal cooling efficiency for all the money you spent you do NEED AT LEAST 1 gpm. People didn't just up and decide one day, lets tell everyone 1 gpm that sounds good, nice even number. That saying is based on facts and science, and renders your opinion useless.


Not opinion, based on data from my system. I've read, I'm sure we've all had, the same reviews and articles you live by. But hardware evolves all the time, and like I said, not every testing condition takes into account all possible hardware configs. So maybe in lab test conditions 1 GPM is optimal, but even scientists understand that lab testing conditions are not real world. There are variations. My opinion is based on the data I recorded. Thought I would share it with you, but I see now that was a mistake.








Quote:


> " It reduces wear" - False, it increases wear try again, the motor and bearing ramping up and down constantly increase wear, as does starting and stopping. Running a constant speed 24/7 reduces wear. Same with fans, and even your car.


It doesn't "ramp up and down constantly". It is based on water temp, and that doesn't go up and down constantly. It goes up and down fairly slowly based on load. Even going from idle to max load, the water temp takes a bit to get going. And that is artificial since that is quite different to everyday use. I'm amazed I have to explain to you why I use water temp to control the cooling system.

And any time you have moving parts in a system you are subjected to wear. Guess you missed that part in your beloved science class, LOL. Google D5 pumps wearing out, you will see plenty of pictures of bearing and more often, bearing housing on the rotor, wearing out.
Quote:


> "all I get is higher water temp" - That is because the water is removing the heat, IE doing its job, BETTER.
> 
> "nearly the same hardware temps" Nearly the same? So Lower? LOL.
> 
> Are you trying to cool a PC or are you trying to cool water? I'm confused.
> 
> All I am saying, ooooh is give Science a Chance!


Sounds like English comprehension is not your strong point. My point is that the higher pump speed and flow gain in performance is negated by the heat produced by the pump. My hardware temps stay the same, but my water gets hotter with the higher temp. So yes, the blocks are technically cooling more since the hardware temps are the same with the lower flow, but I'm also dumping more heat into the water. So what is the point? If hardware temps stay almost identical, then might as well run the pumps lower. If I want to just heat up water I'll make some tea








Quote:


> Again this is false, Peoples needs/desires are different. Facts are not, most people are not trying to cool water, why you are is beyond me.


Again, english comprehension seems to be a bit of an issue. In case you missed it, this is under the watercooling forum. But anyways, good luck building a computer to run your Aquaero. Sounds like your priorities are much more in order. Best wishes.


----------



## vvv850

I think there are some misconceptions here and luckily AQ has some tools to extract some useful information.

Like the saying, a picture is worth a thousand words:


So, what I did is take measurements of my cooling system during a Valley stress test and at the same time vary the flow speed.

My cooling config:

RAD1 in and out: 2 x EK XE360 in series
RAD2 in and out: 1 x EK PE240

As I and many others have said, loop order doesn't matter if you have proper flow. Because I tested below optimum water flow I will post my loop order.

2 x D5 > 2 x XE360 > 980 ti > PE240 > i7-6700K

Looking at the attached picture should enable you to draw your own conclusions.

If my conclusions are of any interest I will post some here:

- Average water temp do not change with flow. It stays the same.

- With low flow you get higher highs and lower lows. The water moves slower through the RAD giving it time to dissipate more (huge difference between output and input) but at the same time, it also negatively affects block temps (increased GPU temps in this example)

- An optimal flow is around 1GPM as many have said. This is where you will benefit most (having cooler components). So if your pump is silent at 1GPM, why vary the speed? I don't know how many of you have seen that the pumps have different vibration/noise at different speeds. For example, My D5 combo is noisier at 60%, 80% and 92% than at 100% Higher noise means higher wear and using a curve would get the pump going through all of these different resonance stages (my DDC 3.2 did the same). That's why I keep my pump at 90% (1.06GPM). Of course you can run a 0.6GPM cooling system if your pump can't do higher or is noisier, but if that is not the case, go with 1GPM (you get between 1C-2C improved temps).

- Exhaust heat (depending on room size and room airflow) will eventually affect water temps. If you look at the graph you can see that the water temps are steadily climbing. This is because the exhaust air is starting to heat up the ambient. I have two sensors that measure ambient and confirm this statement. They are placed before the rad to measure the air temperature going through. Also, during this test, the Delta T stayed mostly the same.



- In this example, average water temps increased by aproximately 0.2C because of pump heat dissipation between lowest speed and highest speed. So, in my case, having the pump run at 60% instead of 90% gets me 0.2C which is negligible.


----------



## Cyber Locc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M-Sauce*
> 
> Not opinion, based on data from my system. I've read, I'm sure we've all had, the same reviews and articles you live by. But hardware evolves all the time, and like I said, not every testing condition takes into account all possible hardware configs. So maybe in lab test conditions 1 GPM is optimal, but even scientists understand that lab testing conditions are not real world. There are variations.


So wait, you say all that, and yet you run your loop at 1gpm or very close under load? Why dont you run that at .40 gpm?

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M-Sauce*
> 
> But anyways, good luck building a computer to run your Aquaero. Sounds like your priorities are much more in order. Best wishes.


Thank you kindly,

@vvv850, Thanks for the graphs, They show what I would I already expected. I think that is where the disconnect is happening with M-sauce, yes the temperature different may only be a few degrees. However it does exist.

Comes back to users need, and why you are watercooling to begin with. Some people watercool for looks, some for noise, some to squeeze every last degree. And every Users needs and wants is drastically different.

Also rep for taking the time and giving us the pretty graphs







.

M-Sauce, why not make some graphs like this? At various flow rates, in a valley run? I would be very interested in your graphs.


----------



## B3L13V3R

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cyber Locc*
> 
> Ahh ya, I dont know if that would require the Diva Mod or not? But to control them with PWM defiantly does and that is the only way to adjust the speed.
> Best you will be able to do from that standpoint is go by the restriction of your loop. And the PSI your D5 can put out, its 4.72 with a stock top and 4.95 for a average custom top. Now lets math it out
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Edit: you have a custom top, but a bitspower one, which is actually worse performance than the stock one. So we will go with 4.75, being nice
> 
> Swiftech MCR-QPs - .30 PSI each .60 total
> EK Supremacy .8 PSI
> EK 670 Blocks* .70 PSI each 2.1 Total (They appear to be in parallel when you had 2, still the case?)
> Other: (fittings, tube, ect)** 1psi


Ok, now that we're getting deeper into the conversation, I'm now running two 1080 ti's _(with EK 1080 ti blocks, as I don't know if they are any different than the Titan "compatible" blocks)_. Plus the little Aquaero block, just need to get cables back in shape, but I am replacing the Swiftech 480 with an AC Airplex 480 in the coming weeks as my only rad since pulling the Swiftech 360 a few days ago which frankly wasn't helping much as a front mounted rad:

Here's the block on the AQ.



I'm testing it on a tight curve between 60% and 90% and its super quiet either way while providing some pretty nice temp control. The confusion is that when I select PWM on the Fans page for the Pump, it runs *loud*. Now, I do get about a 1C lower temp difference at idle when I run it like that, but it's annoying. I really wish I could measure the pressure or flow, so I guess it's a flow meter purchase for me.



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cyber Locc*
> 
> If the Cards are in Serial:
> Total PSI Drop, is 4.5, so you would need to run your D5 with stock top, at about 95% speed for it to be at 1gpm. If you have a custom top, likely around 90%.
> 
> IF the cards are in Parallel:
> Total PSI Drop, is 3.1. so you could run your d5 at 66% speed at achieve 1gpm, anything more is icing.
> 
> Now all those percentages are rough, and from a "Perfect world scenario" Where in a perfect world all those numbers scale nicely with percentages which is far from reality but its as close as we can get without a flow meter.


Parallel, see pic above.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cyber Locc*
> 
> I hope that helps some.
> * using the numbers for 780 blocks as cant find data for 670 blocks though its likely to be the same or similar.
> ** you got a lot of 90s and stuff going on there, plus tubing and all.


I have it down to three 90's in the loop now since adding the softer turns with the BP rotating angle fittings on the GPU's and a 30 on the return to the res from the AQ block. Also, as I mentioned, I am using a single 30mm 480 for the whole thing. Mostly so that I can get this system as efficient as possible first before doing the math for any additional surface area, such as a 60mm AC 360 to go with the AC 480 soon with NB fans (or comparable). Little by little I will be replacing the blocks with AC, starting with the CPU block.

Speaking of the CPU, I'm still getting these funky charts from Aquasuite that state two different readings from the same source. If I use AIDA as the source for *CPU Package* it displays a "matched" reading on the chart _and_ the Single Value, but AIDA reads higher than every other software monitor, including my external ROG OC Panel. So I'm thinking AIDA is incorrect:











When I use the AC Hardware Monitor, that agree's with the Intel monitor. the chart shows something entirely jacked (65C+) compared to the *Single Value which matches every other monitor*, seemingly correctly.










Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vvv850*
> 
> I think there are some misconceptions here and luckily AQ has some tools to extract some useful information.
> 
> Like the saying, a picture is worth a thousand words:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So, what I did is take measurements of my cooling system during a Valley stress test and at the same time vary the flow speed.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> My cooling config:
> 
> RAD1 in and out: 2 x EK XE360 in series
> RAD2 in and out: 1 x EK PE240
> 
> As I and many others have said, loop order doesn't matter if you have proper flow. Because I tested below optimum water flow I will post my loop order.
> 
> 2 x D5 > 2 x XE360 > 980 ti > PE240 > i7-6700K
> 
> Looking at the attached picture should enable you to draw your own conclusions.
> 
> If my conclusions are of any interest I will post some here:
> 
> 
> 
> - Average water temp do not change with flow. It stays the same.
> 
> - With low flow you get higher highs and lower lows. The water moves slower through the RAD giving it time to dissipate more (huge difference between output and input) but at the same time, it also negatively affects block temps (increased GPU temps in this example)
> 
> - An optimal flow is around 1GPM as many have said. This is where you will benefit most (having cooler components). So if your pump is silent at 1GPM, why vary the speed? I don't know how many of you have seen that the pumps have different vibration/noise at different speeds. For example, My D5 combo is noisier at 60%, 80% and 92% than at 100% Higher noise means higher wear and using a curve would get the pump going through all of these different resonance stages (my DDC 3.2 did the same). That's why I keep my pump at 90% (1.06GPM). Of course you can run a 0.6GPM cooling system if your pump can't do higher or is noisier, but if that is not the case, go with 1GPM (you get between 1C-2C improved temps).
> 
> - Exhaust heat (depending on room size and room airflow) will eventually affect water temps. If you look at the graph you can see that the water temps are steadily climbing. This is because the exhaust air is starting to heat up the ambient. I have two sensors that measure ambient and confirm this statement. They are placed before the rad to measure the air temperature going through. Also, during this test, the Delta T stayed mostly the same.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> - In this example, average water temps increased by aproximately 0.2C because of pump heat dissipation between lowest speed and highest speed. So, in my case, having the pump run at 60% instead of 90% gets me 0.2C which is negligible.


Hmm... very 'interesting' indeed... and helpful addition. Thank you...


----------



## Cyber Locc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B3L13V3R*
> 
> Ok, now that we're getting deeper into the conversation, I'm now running two 1080 ti's _(with EK 1080 ti blocks, as I don't know if they are any different than the Titan "compatible" blocks)_. Plus the little Aquaero block, just need to get cables back in shape, but I am replacing the Swiftech 480 with an AC Airplex 480 in the coming weeks as my only rad since pulling the Swiftech 360 a few days ago which frankly wasn't helping much as a front mounted rad:
> 
> Here's the block on the AQ.
> 
> 
> 
> I'm testing it on a tight curve between 60% and 90% and its super quiet either way while providing some pretty nice temp control. The confusion is that when I select PWM on the Fans page for the Pump, it runs *loud*. Now, I do get about a 1C lower temp difference at idle when I run it like that, but it's annoying. I really wish I could measure the pressure or flow, so I guess it's a flow meter purchase for me.


Yep defiantly some recalculating. I would say the 1080ti blocks are likely the same. The change of losing a 3rd card is irrelevant as you are in parallel. The loss of 90s, would decrease PSI however that AQ block would greatly increase it, so id say the numbers are likely around the same, 3-3.3ish range, so 60%+ should be good imo. A flow meter would be very helpful purchase.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B3L13V3R*
> 
> The confusion is that when I select PWM on the Fans page for the Pump, it runs loud.


Hmm im not qualified to answer this, never attempted to control a D5 on PWM, and it could be a diva mod need.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B3L13V3R*
> 
> Speaking of the CPU, I'm still getting these funky charts from Aquasuite that state two different readings from the same source. If I use AIDA as the source for CPU Package it displays a "matched" reading on the chart and the Single Value, but AIDA reads higher than every other software monitor, including my external ROG OC Panel. So I'm thinking AIDA is incorrect:


That is strange, I would trust the OC panel first, maybe try reinstalling AIDA.


----------



## jvillaveces

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vvv850*
> 
> I think there are some misconceptions here and luckily AQ has some tools to extract some useful information.
> 
> Like the saying, a picture is worth a thousand words:
> 
> 
> So, what I did is take measurements of my cooling system during a Valley stress test and at the same time vary the flow speed.
> 
> My cooling config:
> 
> RAD1 in and out: 2 x EK XE360 in series
> RAD2 in and out: 1 x EK PE240
> 
> As I and many others have said, loop order doesn't matter if you have proper flow. Because I tested below optimum water flow I will post my loop order.
> 
> 2 x D5 > 2 x XE360 > 980 ti > PE240 > i7-6700K
> 
> Looking at the attached picture should enable you to draw your own conclusions.
> 
> If my conclusions are of any interest I will post some here:
> 
> - Average water temp do not change with flow. It stays the same.
> 
> - With low flow you get higher highs and lower lows. The water moves slower through the RAD giving it time to dissipate more (huge difference between output and input) but at the same time, it also negatively affects block temps (increased GPU temps in this example)
> 
> - An optimal flow is around 1GPM as many have said. This is where you will benefit most (having cooler components). So if your pump is silent at 1GPM, why vary the speed? I don't know how many of you have seen that the pumps have different vibration/noise at different speeds. For example, My D5 combo is noisier at 60%, 80% and 92% than at 100% Higher noise means higher wear and using a curve would get the pump going through all of these different resonance stages (my DDC 3.2 did the same). That's why I keep my pump at 90% (1.06GPM). Of course you can run a 0.6GPM cooling system if your pump can't do higher or is noisier, but if that is not the case, go with 1GPM (you get between 1C-2C improved temps).
> 
> - Exhaust heat (depending on room size and room airflow) will eventually affect water temps. If you look at the graph you can see that the water temps are steadily climbing. This is because the exhaust air is starting to heat up the ambient. I have two sensors that measure ambient and confirm this statement. They are placed before the rad to measure the air temperature going through. Also, during this test, the Delta T stayed mostly the same.
> 
> 
> 
> - In this example, average water temps increased by aproximately 0.2C because of pump heat dissipation between lowest speed and highest speed. So, in my case, having the pump run at 60% instead of 90% gets me 0.2C which is negligible.


Fantastic post! Data and information always enrich the discussion, as much as hearsay and jumping to conclusions just increases the noise level. +Rep!


----------



## zeroibis

Does anyone know if splitters like these are safe for controlling fans via PWM?

https://modmymods.com/darkside-4-pin-dual-fan-power-y-cable-splitter-jet-black-ds-0095.html

https://modmymods.com/darkside-4-pin-triple-fan-power-3-way-cable-splitter-jet-black-ds-0734.html

I plan to hook 3x ML 120s to the 3 way and 2x ML 140s to the two way. Would I be able to connect these and control the fans without issue?

Or is the splitty 9 the only way to control more than 1 pwm fan per channel and have the fans work correctly (all fans running in full PWM control and in full rpm range)?


----------



## ruffhi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zeroibis*
> 
> Or is the splitty 9 the only way to control more than 1 pwm fan per channel and have the fans work correctly (all fans running in full PWM control and in full rpm range)?


I know that the Silverstone Tek fan splitter works with PWM fans and the Aquaero. I have my 7 fans in the pedestal getting power from the PSU and being controlled by the Aquaero on a single channel.


----------



## hadesfactor

Hey guys quick question in regards to setting up virtual sensors on your delta t....is it better to set up a v-sensors based on the delta between coolant in and out or coolant in and ambient or is there a way to set up 2 different curves for the same fan based on different sensors...whether or not that is overkill or not....reason I am asking is I actually have temp lugs in both rads in the inlet and outlet of the rads


----------



## ruffhi

You could ... but you won't get much benefit - my two temp sensors are less than a degree C different.

One reason to have two temp lugs is to calculate the amount of heat dissipated ... there is part of the Aquaero manual that covers that.

Page 29 ...


----------



## war4peace

Wow, cool, that's very nice. I do have a flow sensor and one temperature plug, will have to buy one more temperature plug and a 4-way splitter.


----------



## GTXJackBauer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ruffhi*
> 
> One reason to have two temp lugs is to calculate the amount of heat dissipated ... there is part of the Aquaero manual that covers that.
> 
> Page 29 ...


+1 Thanks for that.


----------



## hadesfactor

looks like Ill just use the 2nd plug for info only....after reading that section it looks like its not really precise and fluctuates a lot. I wasn't planning on getting flow meters not really necessary especially running a dual loop setup my D5s have PLENTY of power lol...since using this feature doesn't have any real benefit Ill just save the $100+ on 2 flow sensors lol


----------



## B3L13V3R

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ruffhi*
> 
> You could ... but you won't get much benefit - my two temp sensors are less than a degree C different.
> 
> One reason to have two temp lugs is to calculate the amount of heat dissipated ... there is part of the Aquaero manual that covers that.
> 
> Page 29 ...


Yup +1... rep that puppy! Thanks.


----------



## alexwill22

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zeroibis*
> 
> Does anyone know if splitters like these are safe for controlling fans via PWM?
> 
> https://modmymods.com/darkside-4-pin-dual-fan-power-y-cable-splitter-jet-black-ds-0095.html
> 
> https://modmymods.com/darkside-4-pin-triple-fan-power-3-way-cable-splitter-jet-black-ds-0734.html
> 
> I plan to hook 3x ML 120s to the 3 way and 2x ML 140s to the two way. Would I be able to connect these and control the fans without issue?
> 
> Or is the splitty 9 the only way to control more than 1 pwm fan per channel and have the fans work correctly (all fans running in full PWM control and in full rpm range)?


The darkside splitter is fine, I use them with the Splitty 9. I have 8 fans connected to the splitty 9 and 3 fans on a 3 way splitter connected to the last connection on the splitty 9. Just don't connect the splitter to the rpm port on the splitty 9. 11 fans controlled on 1 aquaero pwm port, with no problems.


----------



## vvv850

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alexwill22*
> 
> The darkside splitter is fine, I use them with the Splitty 9. I have 8 fans connected to the splitty 9 and 3 fans on a 3 way splitter connected to the last connection on the splitty 9. Just don't connect the splitter to the rpm port on the splitty 9. 11 fans controlled on 1 aquaero pwm port, with no problems.


You can connect the splitter on the rpm port on splitty9. The darkside splitter has also only one port that has the rpm pin.


----------



## AllGamer

*Does the High Flow USB needs to be software Trained?*

Because everyday I turn off / turn on the PC, the Flow sensor seems to goes slower and slower it started at aprox 172 LPH on day one, now it's down to 94 LPH (after several weeks)

*CPU* fan is the RPM signal from the High Flow USB, it has remained pretty constant since day one

*Chassis #2* fan is the actual pump RPM, also remains constant since day one.

*OPT3* fan is an actual case fan.

*Flow #1* signal is from the High Flow USB

*MPS pressure* has always been 0 bar from day one

The actual water flow is pretty quick, that's why I think it's a software thing, or the flow sensor is dying on me.


----------



## InfoSeeker

The RPM signal from the High Flow USB sensor is an artificially generated number by the sensor, and will not change UNLESS set to zero by the alarm module. There is no calibration procedure for the High Flow sensor except the setup panel in aqausuite.. If your flow is decreasing, you should probably check for debris in the loop. If you have transparent covers on your processor blocks, you can start there.


----------



## AllGamer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *InfoSeeker*
> 
> The RPM signal from the High Flow USB sensor is an artificially generated number by the sensor, and will not change UNLESS set to zero by the alarm module. There is no calibration procedure for the High Flow sensor except the setup panel in aqausuite.. If your flow is decreasing, you should probably check for debris in the loop. If you have transparent covers on your processor blocks, you can start there.


yup, everything transparent,

I got an EK D5 pump horizontally with its reservoir,

Intentionally setup that way so I can easily see if there's any debris accumulation, but nothing...

the video card block and CPU block are also transparent, I don't see any blockage, no air bubble trapped.

currently using a 100mm reservoir, just picked up a replacement cylinder to make it 250mm

so I'll be draining the whole loop and re-filling it again, i'll see if I catch anything then.

The actual water flow is very fast, so I'm not sure why the flow sensor keeps on going slower and slower.

I'm guessing maybe the plasticide accumulating inside the flow sensor?

using Primo Chill PrimoFlex Advanced LRT tubes, I did the sysprep clean and flush, before running it with permanent coolant (Mayhem Clear X1)

.


----------



## Master Chicken

Particulate buildup in the differential pressure taps inside of the High Flow sensor?


----------



## jura11

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AllGamer*
> 
> *Does the High Flow USB needs to be software Trained?*
> 
> Because everyday I turn off / turn on the PC, the Flow sensor seems to goes slower and slower it started at aprox 172 LPH on day one, now it's down to 94 LPH (after several weeks)
> 
> *CPU* fan is the RPM signal from the High Flow USB, it has remained pretty constant since day one
> 
> *Chassis #2* fan is the actual pump RPM, also remains constant since day one.
> 
> *OPT3* fan is an actual case fan.
> 
> *Flow #1* signal is from the High Flow USB
> 
> *MPS pressure* has always been 0 bar from day one
> 
> The actual water flow is pretty quick, that's why I think it's a software thing, or the flow sensor is dying on me.


Hi there

I'm using Aquacomputer MPS400 and have very similar issue although in my case sensor starts at 249LPH and now is reading 399LPH

What fluid or coolant are you using?

Here is log from Aquasuite










Hope this helps

Thanks, Jura


----------



## InfoSeeker

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Master Chicken*
> 
> Particulate buildup in the differential pressure taps inside of the High Flow sensor?


I believe the High Flow USB sensor is a mechanical device with a rotating impeller.


----------



## InfoSeeker

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jura11*
> 
> Hi there
> 
> I'm using Aquacomputer MPS400 and have very similar issue although in my case sensor starts at 249LPH and now is reading 399LPH
> 
> What fluid or coolant are you using?
> 
> Here is log from Aquasuite
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hope this helps
> 
> Thanks, Jura


The High Flow sensor and MPS Flow sensor are two different beasts.
The MPS sensors do require calibration and regular re-zeroing (which should be set to automatic).


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *InfoSeeker*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Master Chicken*
> 
> Particulate buildup in the differential pressure taps inside of the High Flow sensor?
> 
> 
> 
> I believe the High Flow USB sensor is a mechanical device with a rotating impeller.
Click to expand...

correct
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *InfoSeeker*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *jura11*
> 
> Hi there
> 
> I'm using Aquacomputer MPS400 and have very similar issue although in my case sensor starts at 249LPH and now is reading 399LPH
> 
> What fluid or coolant are you using?
> 
> Here is log from Aquasuite
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hope this helps
> 
> Thanks, Jura
> 
> 
> 
> The High Flow sensor and MPS Flow sensor are two different beasts.
> The MPS sensors do require calibration and regular re-zeroing (which should be set to automatic).
Click to expand...

correct


----------



## Master Chicken

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *InfoSeeker*
> 
> I believe the High Flow USB sensor is a mechanical device with a rotating impeller.


You may be right. I know one of the models was a differential across a known orifice type of flow sensor. I'm sure some are paddle wheels though.


----------



## Mega Man

Any of the high flow ones there is 2


----------



## muzammil84

planning on using Aquaero 5 lt with splitty9 to control 8 Enermax Cluster 120 fans(PWM). My only concern is Splitty9 doesn't have a power source connector like other fan hubs do, I want my fans ran as low rpm as possible all the time(450 rpm ish). Question is, would Aquaero 5 lt handle it fine without overheating(will put a heatsink on it) and am I better off using some other fan splitter that can power all the fans so there isn't too much stress put on Aquaero? I have two Tt commander pwm hubs which I can use instead of splitty and which have a sata power connector. thx for your help


----------



## war4peace

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *InfoSeeker*
> 
> I believe the High Flow USB sensor is a mechanical device with a rotating impeller.


Yes and the standard measurement value is 169 impulses per liter. that's what the manual says anyway.


----------



## Ashcroft

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *war4peace*
> 
> Yes and the standard measurement value is 169 impulses per liter. that's what the manual says anyway.


Remember that the impulse per liter settings only apply to the older 3 pin/wire flow meters that connect to the flow header, not any of the USB models.
The Mechanical USB model has no settings that you can change.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *muzammil84*
> 
> planning on using Aquaero 5 lt with splitty9 to control 8 Enermax Cluster 120 fans(PWM). My only concern is Splitty9 doesn't have a power source connector like other fan hubs do, I want my fans ran as low rpm as possible all the time(450 rpm ish). Question is, would Aquaero 5 lt handle it fine without overheating(will put a heatsink on it) and am I better off using some other fan splitter that can power all the fans so there isn't too much stress put on Aquaero? I have two Tt commander pwm hubs which I can use instead of splitty and which have a sata power connector. thx for your help


The Aq5 gets hottest when reducing voltage to voltage controlled devices. The PWM header just puts out a steady 12V so can handle more fans without causing over heating. Lowering the speed of PWM fans also reduces their power use so they will cause even less heating than VC fans. I don't know the power usage of enermax fans but I would expect 8 to be fine. Unless they are unusually power hungry like Noiseblocker fans.


----------



## war4peace

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ashcroft*
> 
> Remember that the impulse per liter settings only apply to the older 3 pin/wire flow meters that connect to the flow header, not any of the USB models.
> The Mechanical USB model has no settings that you can change


So... what do I link the USB flow meter to? A Motherboard USB header?


----------



## Ashcroft

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *war4peace*
> 
> So... what do I link the USB flow meter to? A Motherboard USB header?


You can, but once it is configured as you need it then you just need the Aquabus connection.

The USB connection is useful so you can use it as a standalone device without an Aquaero, or just not connected to the Aq, and you can read it through Aquasuite.


----------



## muzammil84

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ashcroft*
> 
> Remember that the impulse per liter settings only apply to the older 3 pin/wire flow meters that connect to the flow header, not any of the USB models.
> The Mechanical USB model has no settings that you can change.
> The Aq5 gets hottest when reducing voltage to voltage controlled devices. The PWM header just puts out a steady 12V so can handle more fans without causing over heating. Lowering the speed of PWM fans also reduces their power use so they will cause even less heating than VC fans. I don't know the power usage of enermax fans but I would expect 8 to be fine. Unless they are unusually power hungry like Noiseblocker fans.


they have 3 operation modes, the lowest which is 500-1200 rpm is rated 2.16W(that's for 1200 rpm so 500 rpm would be like 1W ish)so according to specs I'm withing safe range. my only concern was Splitty9 which doesn't have a power input like other hubs do. Also, there's a jumper on Splitty9, if ran off Aquaero it has to be in position 1, if without- position 2. Splitty9 manual doesn't exactly explain what it does but mentions about controlling every fan individually when connected to Aquaero. Not sure if I understand it right. thx for help


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *muzammil84*
> 
> planning on using Aquaero 5 lt with splitty9 to control 8 Enermax Cluster 120 fans(PWM). My only concern is Splitty9 doesn't have a power source connector like other fan hubs do, I want my fans ran as low rpm as possible all the time(450 rpm ish). Question is, would Aquaero 5 lt handle it fine without overheating(will put a heatsink on it) and am I better off using some other fan splitter that can power all the fans so there isn't too much stress put on Aquaero? I have two Tt commander pwm hubs which I can use instead of splitty and which have a sata power connector. thx for your help


The older 5 series is very limited in comparison to the newer 6 series.

I wouldn't run 8 fans off it's power pins on the PWM channel.

If you already have a Splitty 9, you'll want to look at making a custom cable so that the PWM and rpm go to the A5, and the power comes from a Molex or SATA cable from the PSU

Alternatively, spend the few extra $$ and just get a Silverstone splitter that does all that for you:

http://www.performance-pcs.com/silverstone-cpf04-1-to-8-pwm-fan-hub-black.html

The Splitty was designed to be a dual purpose splitter . . . .

It can work as a PWM fan splitter or an Aquabus splitter.

For Aquabus, it needs to split all 4 pins to all 9 headers

As a PWM splitter, it has to have all 4 pins to only 1 header

The 3rd pin, for the tach signal, can only connect to 1 fan

That's what the jumper does . . . connects the other eight "3rd pins" when you want to use it as an Aquabus splitter.

The drawback, is that it doesn't offer a PSU connection for the power when used as a PWM splitter. . . which in reality, is what it's used for most of the time.

It should come with 2 connection cables, one 4 pin to 4 pin for Aquabus, and another with a 4 pin to 4 pin two wire, and a molex/sata PSU connector

I think AC missed a big opportunity there.


----------



## muzammil84

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> The older 5 series is very limited in comparison to the newer 6 series.
> 
> I wouldn't run 8 fans off it's power pins on the PWM channel.
> 
> If you already have a Splitty 9, you'll want to look at making a custom cable so that the PWM and rpm go to the A5, and the power comes from a Molex or SATA cable from the PSU
> 
> Alternatively, spend the few extra $$ and just get a Silverstone splitter that does all that for you:
> 
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/silverstone-cpf04-1-to-8-pwm-fan-hub-black.html
> 
> The Splitty was designed to be a dual purpose splitter . . . .
> 
> It can work as a PWM fan splitter or an Aquabus splitter.
> 
> For Aquabus, it needs to split all 4 pins to all 9 headers
> 
> As a PWM splitter, it has to have all 4 pins to only 1 header
> 
> The 3rd pin, for the tach signal, can only connect to 1 fan
> 
> That's what the jumper does . . . connects the other eight "3rd pins" when you want to use it as an Aquabus splitter.
> 
> The drawback, is that it doesn't offer a PSU connection for the power when used as a PWM splitter. . . which in reality, is what it's used for most of the time.
> 
> It should come with 2 connection cables, one 4 pin to 4 pin for Aquabus, and another with a 4 pin to 4 pin two wire, and a molex/sata PSU connector
> 
> I think AC missed a big opportunity there.


I have two Tt Commander pwm hubs, can I use one of them(they basically do same as Silverstone You linked?).


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *muzammil84*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> The older 5 series is very limited in comparison to the newer 6 series.
> 
> I wouldn't run 8 fans off it's power pins on the PWM channel.
> 
> If you already have a Splitty 9, you'll want to look at making a custom cable so that the PWM and rpm go to the A5, and the power comes from a Molex or SATA cable from the PSU
> 
> Alternatively, spend the few extra $$ and just get a Silverstone splitter that does all that for you:
> 
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/silverstone-cpf04-1-to-8-pwm-fan-hub-black.html
> 
> The Splitty was designed to be a dual purpose splitter . . . .
> 
> It can work as a PWM fan splitter or an Aquabus splitter.
> 
> For Aquabus, it needs to split all 4 pins to all 9 headers
> 
> As a PWM splitter, it has to have all 4 pins to only 1 header
> 
> The 3rd pin, for the tach signal, can only connect to 1 fan
> 
> That's what the jumper does . . . connects the other eight "3rd pins" when you want to use it as an Aquabus splitter.
> 
> The drawback, is that it doesn't offer a PSU connection for the power when used as a PWM splitter. . . which in reality, is what it's used for most of the time.
> 
> It should come with 2 connection cables, one 4 pin to 4 pin for Aquabus, and another with a 4 pin to 4 pin two wire, and a molex/sata PSU connector
> 
> I think AC missed a big opportunity there.
> 
> 
> 
> I have two Tt Commander pwm hubs, can I use one of them(they basically do same as Silverstone You linked?).
Click to expand...

I'm not familiar with the Tt hubs, but if it is the same as the Silverstone, then you should be fine.


----------



## war4peace

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ashcroft*
> 
> You can, but once it is configured as you need it then you just need the Aquabus connection.
> 
> The USB connection is useful so you can use it as a standalone device without an Aquaero, or just not connected to the Aq, and you can read it through Aquasuite.


Ok I'm a bit confused...

I own this device: *Aquacomputer Flow sensor 'high flow' G1/4 for aquaero, aquastream XT ultra and poweradjust*.
It has a 3-pin connection, which I can use to run a 3-pin cable to the Aquaero.

its description says: "Please note the right calibration setting of 169 pulses per liter!" - so I assume this is a mechanical device.
now, my question is: where exactly on the Aquaero should I plug this cable?


----------



## Ashcroft

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *war4peace*
> 
> Ok I'm a bit confused...
> 
> I own this device: *Aquacomputer Flow sensor 'high flow' G1/4 for aquaero, aquastream XT ultra and poweradjust*.
> It has a 3-pin connection, which I can use to run a 3-pin cable to the Aquaero.
> 
> its description says: "Please note the right calibration setting of 169 pulses per liter!" - so I assume this is a mechanical device.
> now, my question is: where exactly on the Aquaero should I plug this cable?


That plugs into the flow header.


----------



## war4peace

Thank you


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ashcroft*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *war4peace*
> 
> So... what do I link the USB flow meter to? A Motherboard USB header?
> 
> 
> 
> You can, but once it is configured as you need it then you just need the Aquabus connection.
> 
> The USB connection is useful so you can use it as a standalone device without an Aquaero, or just not connected to the Aq, and you can read it through Aquasuite.
Click to expand...

I would recommend both aquabus to aquabus connection ( high flow to aquaero ) and USB (high flow to mobo ) if possible, if not (lack of USB ports, either reccomend an internal USB hub, ( ac or nzxt makes them ) or you connect it via USB, chance it to aquabus (you should do this either way) and then (power down pc) unplug usb.

I recommend aquabus connection either way, if you have an aquaero otherwise the aquaero won't be able to see the flow, and you can not set alarms on the aquaero, if you want to, based on flow


----------



## war4peace

Turns out I had a different type of flow meter, so never mind


----------



## AllGamer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *war4peace*
> 
> So... what do I link the USB flow meter to? A Motherboard USB header?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ashcroft*
> 
> You can, but once it is configured as you need it then you just need the Aquabus connection.
> 
> The USB connection is useful so you can use it as a standalone device without an Aquaero, or just not connected to the Aq, and you can read it through Aquasuite.


That's how I have mine setup.

works quite good

and the Aquasuite already have a pre-set template for the High Flow USB


----------



## smicha

Guys,

For few days I cannot run aquasuite - I uninstalled it and cannot install it again

errors installing aquasuite are under

\AppData\Local\Temp\WER14DE.tmp.WERInternalMetadata.xml
\AppData\Local\Temp\WER1B16.tmp.appcompat.txt
\AppData\Local\Temp\WER1B65.tmp.mdmp

I am on windows 7 - any hints how to make it running?

Thank you in advance for your help.


----------



## war4peace

1. Clear your temp files;
2. Check if you still have write access to that folder;
3. Check if you still have space on the disk.


----------



## smicha

By Access to the folder do you mean temp folder ?


----------



## war4peace

Yes, if you go to that folder, can you delete/edit temporary files?


----------



## smicha

Yes - I have full access to the folder, disk is ok. I cannot run installer - when I double click on it nothing happens now. Is there any brute force method to install it?


----------



## Shoggy

Maybe the already know problem with Riva Tuner or MSI Afterburner?


----------



## smicha

I have no riva tuner installed.

SOLUTION (just managed to install it):

1. uninstalled MSI
2. uninstalled OpenHardwareMonitor - removed from event manager
3. uninstalled latest netframework 4.7
4. installed netframework 4.6.1

Runs fine now.

Thank you.


----------



## zeroibis

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *smicha*
> 
> I have no riva tuner installed.
> 
> SOLUTION (just managed to install it):
> 
> 1. uninstalled MSI
> 2. uninstalled OpenHardwareMonitor - removed from event manager
> 3. uninstalled latest netframework 4.7
> 4. installed netframework 4.6.1
> 
> Runs fine now.
> 
> Thank you.


BTW where you using the latest release MSI Afterburner 4.4.0 that came out yesterday? That version should work fine on .net 4.7 as the crash issue was supposed to be fixed already.


----------



## CDRacingZX6R

Hi, I just had a general question I was hoping someone here could help me with.

I have an Aquaero 6 LT and three Aquabus D5 Pumps (all three are the USB / Aquabus interface version).

The three pumps are all going to run serial in a single loop (over-kill build). My question is whats the best way of setting this up connection wise? Can I just get a couple aquacomputer PWM splitters and connect the three pumps into one of the fan headers on the Aquaero? Or maybe get the aquacomputer 3 pin splitters and use the High flow header?

Ultimately I'd like to be able to have the pumps RPM's match each other consistently, and change speeds together consistently as well as be able to see the RPM of each pump (within aquasite) to ensure they are all functioning properly.

Any advice is welcome.


----------



## ruffhi

Report the RPM from 1 pump to the Aquaero and report the PWM signal back from the Aquaero to all three pumps.


----------



## CDRacingZX6R

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ruffhi*
> 
> Report the RPM from 1 pump to the Aquaero and report the PWM signal back from the Aquaero to all three pumps.


Thank for responding Ruffhi! Sounds pretty straight forward. But just make sure I understand:

- Use an aquacomputer 3 pin connector and connect the RPM header on the back of the Aquaero 6 to the aquabus header on one of the pumps.

- Daisy chain the Aquabus D5 usb's together using the aquacomputer 4 pin Y-splitters, and then connect it to the high flow header on the Aquaero 6.

Does that sound about right? And will this show each pump's RPM in aquasite? I know it will show at least one of the pumps RPM, but if it's possible I'd love to see all three to make sure they are all working correctly or working at all for that matter.

Thanks again for responding!


----------



## ruffhi

Hmm ... my pumps are not the USB / Aquabus interface variety so what I do might not exactly work for you. Each pump has 4 wires coming from it ... red (power), black (ground), green (pwm) and blue (rpm). I connect my red / black pair to the PSU. I combine the rpm wires and one of the green wires into a 4-pin fan connector and attach that to one of the ports on the Aquaero 6. The other blue wire I run to the cpu motherboard fan connector (ie report the rpm to the motherboard).

So .. with this set up, I can get both rpms - one from aquasuite and one from the motherboard.

I am unsure what complications (if any) the aquabus will bring to the table ... it might enable you to get individual feedback from each of the pumps.


----------



## GTXJackBauer

Grab a SPLITTY9 and switch the jumper to Aquabus mode. Connect all the pumps to that but before you do, connect each pump via USB and assign them each their own unique address before switching to Aquabus via Aquasuite. Assuming these are your only MPS devices you are using as you are limited to 4 total per AQ controller. If you already do have 4 MPS devices in use, excluding the pumps, you could just use the pumps in USB mode.

As for the other members, they're talking about PWM pumps which you do not have.


----------



## blindfitter

Have an Aquaero pro6, 2 x D5's USB, splitting 9
5600 rad + 8 3pin fans, 480rad 8 x PWM fans

Pwm fans are recent, used 3pin sp quiet corsair120 on modmytoys splitter the other rad using 140 3pin fans and again modmytoys splitter. This combination has worked ok ish but can run a bit hot so l thought it was time to go more powerful fans and pwm.

Picked up 4corsair 120SP high speed pwm fans of eBay cheap and a 5 x splitter pwm 4 way cable connected up changed fan control to pwm worked fine. Purchased 4 more fans and this powered by a 5 x cable splitter again this worked fine connected to the aquaero.

Then I purchase the spotty 9 to put 8 120 pwm corsairs on, worked as should l thought total load just over an amp. Later that day they tripped the programmable fuse. Looking into this and with the aid of this most valuable forum read that I need to make a power cable, so converted a 4 pin female female cable, left 1 end untouched and the other end removed the 12 volt line and ground and inserted to a molex. A quick continuity check ok plugged into aquaero and psi, nothing checked my wiring, reread this forum, think l did it correctly.

Thinking it maybe the corsair pwm problem reported here, went and borrowed a couple artic pwm fans and same experience..
Then connected the cable I converted to the cpu header on the motherboard to splitter / psu one fan added to splitty, success added all 8 fans again success.

So at this moment I have gpu's controlled by aquaero together with other case fans, and the cpu being controlled via the bios. And out my control..

All suggestions welcome


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CDRacingZX6R*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *ruffhi*
> 
> Report the RPM from 1 pump to the Aquaero and report the PWM signal back from the Aquaero to all three pumps.
> 
> 
> 
> Thank for responding Ruffhi! Sounds pretty straight forward. But just make sure I understand:
> 
> - Use an aquacomputer 3 pin connector and connect the RPM header on the back of the Aquaero 6 to the aquabus header on one of the pumps.
> 
> - Daisy chain the Aquabus D5 usb's together using the aquacomputer 4 pin Y-splitters, and then connect it to the high flow header on the Aquaero 6.
> 
> Does that sound about right? And will this show each pump's RPM in aquasite? I know it will show at least one of the pumps RPM, but if it's possible I'd love to see all three to make sure they are all working correctly or working at all for that matter.
> 
> Thanks again for responding!
Click to expand...

i just want to be clear

*DO NOT DO THIS you may damage your aquaero !!!!!* i would recommend reading the manual to understand the purposes of the ports, before using the aquearo. it is a piece of equipment that assumes you know what you are doing, and if you dont- and do something wrong, it WILL damage it. the rpm header is used to report rpm TO a device ( like your motherboard ) on either the pump or the aquero ( but iirc the pump can be configured as an alarm ? or something else - too lazy to check atm sorry )

it looks like the thought you had a different type of pump ( voltage / pwm )
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ruffhi*
> 
> Hmm ... my pumps are not the USB / Aquabus interface variety so what I do might not exactly work for you. Each pump has 4 wires coming from it ... red (power), black (ground), green (pwm) and blue (rpm). I connect my red / black pair to the PSU. I combine the rpm wires and one of the green wires into a 4-pin fan connector and attach that to one of the ports on the Aquaero 6. The other blue wire I run to the cpu motherboard fan connector (ie report the rpm to the motherboard).
> 
> So .. with this set up, I can get both rpms - one from aquasuite and one from the motherboard.
> 
> I am unsure what complications (if any) the aquabus will bring to the table ... it might enable you to get individual feedback from each of the pumps.


most of this is not directed at you ruffhi
it is an mps device- long story short you can connect up to 4. they should report RPMS ( iirc you want yo keep usb and aquabus plugged in ) . the rpms will be wiithin spec to eachother ( +/- 10% ) that said just FYI you dont need to run pumps at the same speeds, they wont be hurt by it
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GTXJackBauer*
> 
> Grab a SPLITTY9 and switch the jumper to Aquabus mode. Connect all the pumps to that but before you do, connect each pump via USB and assign them each their own unique address before switching to Aquabus via Aquasuite. Assuming these are your only MPS devices you are using as you are limited to 4 total per AQ controller. If you already do have 4 MPS devices in use, excluding the pumps, you could just use the pumps in USB mode.
> 
> As for the other members, they're talking about PWM pumps which you do not have.


this !!!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *blindfitter*
> 
> Have an Aquaero pro6, 2 x D5's USB, splitting 9
> 5600 rad + 8 3pin fans, 480rad 8 x PWM fans
> 
> Pwm fans are recent, used 3pin sp quiet corsair120 on modmytoys splitter the other rad using 140 3pin fans and again modmytoys splitter. This combination has worked ok ish but can run a bit hot so l thought it was time to go more powerful fans and pwm.
> 
> Picked up 4corsair 120SP high speed pwm fans of eBay cheap and a 5 x splitter pwm 4 way cable connected up changed fan control to pwm worked fine. Purchased 4 more fans and this powered by a 5 x cable splitter again this worked fine connected to the aquaero.
> 
> Then I purchase the spotty 9 to put 8 120 pwm corsairs on, worked as should l thought total load just over an amp. Later that day they tripped the programmable fuse. Looking into this and with the aid of this most valuable forum read that I need to make a power cable, so converted a 4 pin female female cable, left 1 end untouched and the other end removed the 12 volt line and ground and inserted to a molex. A quick continuity check ok plugged into aquaero and psi, nothing checked my wiring, reread this forum, think l did it correctly.
> 
> Thinking it maybe the corsair pwm problem reported here, went and borrowed a couple artic pwm fans and same experience..
> Then connected the cable I converted to the cpu header on the motherboard to splitter / psu one fan added to splitty, success added all 8 fans again success.
> 
> So at this moment I have gpu's controlled by aquaero together with other case fans, and the cpu being controlled via the bios. And out my control..
> 
> All suggestions welcome


umm we would need more info, as mentioned above, did you ever connect anything wrong, it can damage your aquaero

i need some clarification - on the above highlighted section looks like you had some ffs ( fat finger syndrome ) - dont worry you are in good company- i get it alot too !!!!

1 pics of this cable you made would help.
2 you basically want to supply the pwm signal from the aquaero, the power to both the aquaero and the fans need to share a ground ( be connected to the same psu. ) the power ot the fans you want to supply directly from the psu,
3 only report 1 RPM back to the aquaero


----------



## ruffhi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> most of this is not directed at you ruffhi


Thx for the clarification ... but I should have checked what pumps the guy had ... I just assumed PWM (doesn't everyone use PWM pumps?) and gave the solution that I am using.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CDRacingZX6R*
> 
> I have an Aquaero 6 LT and three Aquabus D5 Pumps (all three are the USB / Aquabus interface version).


As @GTXJackBauer mentioned, these are not PWM pumps. My posts assumed they were.


----------



## Captain4W

Is the passive heatsink needed for the Aquaero 6 and/or the poweradjust?


----------



## Mega Man

No, not generally


----------



## Captain4W

also, what's the difference between the Poweradjust 3 Ultra and the Poweradjust 3 Standard?


----------



## Mega Man

Basically the standard when used with aquaero you have all features, the Ultra unlocks additional features when used as a stand alone controller but nothing new when used with aquaero


----------



## Captain4W

It's funny though, the Ultra is cheaper... So that's what I ordered.


----------



## Mega Man

Thats great, if you do get a standard, they can be upgraded through firmware iirc for a small cost


----------



## blindfitter

umm we would need more info, as mentioned above, did you ever connect anything wrong, it can damage your aquaero

i need some clarification - on the above highlighted section looks like you had some ffs ( fat finger syndrome ) - dont worry you are in good company- i get it alot too !!!!

1 pics of this cable you made would help.
2 you basically want to supply the pwm signal from the aquaero, the power to both the aquaero and the fans need to share a ground ( be connected to the same psu. ) the power ot the fans you want to supply directly from the psu,
3 only report 1 RPM back to the aquaero

Thanks for reply mega man.

1. Will have pictures and answer later today


----------



## CDRacingZX6R

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GTXJackBauer*
> 
> Grab a SPLITTY9 and switch the jumper to Aquabus mode. Connect all the pumps to that but before you do, connect each pump via USB and assign them each their own unique address before switching to Aquabus via Aquasuite. Assuming these are your only MPS devices you are using as you are limited to 4 total per AQ controller. If you already do have 4 MPS devices in use, excluding the pumps, you could just use the pumps in USB mode.
> 
> As for the other members, they're talking about PWM pumps which you do not have.


Got it!

I ordered a splitty9, and it should be here eventually (Had to order it from Germany, as no one seems to have them in stock in the states).

If I ended up wanting to conserve the MPS device ports down the road, would I be able to get a HUBBY7 and connect my pumps to it and have the same results? My motherboard only has one USB connector for it.

Thanks for the info!


----------



## Mega Man

Yes any internal USB header hub would work


----------



## blindfitter

Here we go Megaman
Picture of whole cable



Picture of ends of cable termination.
A, 4 cables go to splitty9
B, 2 cables green white go to aquaero fan control
C, 2 cables red black(molex) go to psi molex.



Is this correct? Please advise if wrong

Will get this right then move forward.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *blindfitter*
> 
> Here we go Megaman
> Picture of whole cable
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Picture of ends of cable termination.
> A, 4 cables go to splitty9
> B, 2 cables green white go to aquaero fan control
> C, 2 cables red black(molex) go to psi molex.
> 
> 
> 
> Is this correct? Please advise if wrong
> 
> Will get this right then move forward.


Unless that's a very deceptive picture of the Molex, you have the red and black backwards . . +12 and +5 power on the outsides, grounds in the middle 2 positions.


----------



## ruffhi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *blindfitter*
> 
> Here we go Megaman
> Picture of whole cable
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Picture of ends of cable termination.
> A, 4 cables go to splitty9
> B, 2 cables green white go to aquaero fan control
> C, 2 cables red black(molex) go to psi molex.
> 
> 
> 
> Is this correct? Please advise if wrong
> 
> Will get this right then move forward.


The 4-pin should be GND, Power (12v), sense (rpm), control (pwm).

So ...
1) the 4-pin fan connector with two cables looks right to me.
2) the red wire should be power (and it appears to be at the 4-pin fan connector end)
3) the molex is connected to power (outside) and ground (beside power) but I can't tell if it is 12v or 5v
4) I think the red cable on the molex should be on the outside (power)


----------



## Master Chicken

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ruffhi*
> 
> 4) I think the red cable on the molex should be on the outside (power)


Yeah, the grounds are the two inner pins on the Molex. You'd have to be able to see the key (Molex corners) to determine which end is 12v and which is 5v.


----------



## blindfitter

Just swapped the red black on molex


----------



## hadesfactor

Hi guys....quick question on the RPM...so if I understand it correctly, the 3-pin RPM goes from the AQ6 to a fan header on my mobo to generate a signal for either an alarm or bios shutdown? I had to make a little pass-through since its way to difficult to plug anything in the AQ6 after installed or unplug do to my top rad placement but as long as I dont screw up the temp sensors I think ill be fine lol



excuse the cable mgmt not done yet lol



here's the build so far, almost done....pretty much just the final hardline's, setting up the AQ6 and OC/Benchmarking


----------



## Master Chicken

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *blindfitter*
> 
> Just swapped the red black on molex


You're connected to the 5V pin with the red there. You need the pin on the other side for 12V if that's what you're after.


----------



## Barefooter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Master Chicken*
> 
> You're connected to the 5V pin with the red there. You need the pin on the other side for 12V if that's what you're after.


This is correct. Most molex connectors are numbered. #1 is always 12 volts, ground, ground and pin #4 is 5 volts.


----------



## blindfitter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Master Chicken*
> 
> You're connected to the 5V pin with the red there. You need the pin on the other side for 12V if that's what you're after.


Sorry to question your advice, my fluke clearly shows 12 volts from the cable I made.

Can I assume this part of the cable is correct, and move on please.


----------



## blindfitter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Barefooter*
> 
> This is correct. Most molex connectors are numbered. #1 is always 12 volts, ground, ground and pin #4 is 5 volts.


Hi, when looking plugged into the power supply molex. I can cleanly see the numbers you refer to, and yes the cable was and is wired red wire to no.1


----------



## Barefooter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *blindfitter*
> 
> Hi, when looking plugged into the power supply molex. I can cleanly see the numbers you refer to, and yes the cable was and is wired red wire to no.1


Pin #1 is 12 volts, so you should be good to go!


----------



## Master Chicken

Yes, my bad. I was looking at the other gender on a PCB .... so not the plug, but the receptacle.


----------



## Nihaan

Hello everyone

I am preparing a project for uni and i need some watercooling data in order to finish that part of it.

I need help with thermal analysis of a watercooling rig. In and out water temperature of the cpu and gpu block, radiator and also cooling performance of it on load, so i made a thread to get some help and a user suggested me to ask for help under this thread.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *becks*
> 
> Hi there, and first I would like to wish you good luck with your data project.
> 
> You might find what you are looking for if you ask here, these guys have the most sensors / case for sure


This is my thread: http://www.overclock.net/t/1633797/i-need-help-with-thermal-analysis-of-a-watercooling-rig-in-and-out-water-temperature-of-the-cpu-and-gpu-block-radiator-and-also-cooling-performance-of-it-on-load

Basically what i need is thermal performance of a rig (idle/load temps of CPU and GPU), in and out water temperatures of cpu block, gpu block and radiator.

I hope someone can help me with it and share his numbers, thank you.


----------



## tomsonx1983

Any one have high cpu usage by aquasuite service ?
It takes 16% of cpu usage in idle


----------



## blindfitter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Master Chicken*
> 
> Yes, my bad. I was looking at the other gender on a PCB .... so not the plug, but the receptacle.


Not a problem, it was my error all along intermittent connection on 12volt due me crimping on the insulation.









Moving on to test the fans,

Thanks to all for comments.


----------



## war4peace

Is this the right place to ask a few questions which extend the scope of this thread? If offtopic, I can create a new thread...

Anyway, since I own an Aquaero 6 LT I thought to expand its functionality (Aquabus, Farbwerk, etc) - Aquabus looks specifically appealing. However, the documentation is sketchy at best and the various videos I've watched on Youtube seem to make things even more confusing. Often I've encountered videos contradicting each other, with documentation muddying the waters further.

Will try to break down the questions into simple ones...

1. Aquabus: Does it support device daisy-chaining? If so, how should this be done?
2. USB-Aquabus: what happens if both cables are connected?

More will stem from these, I guess but for now these are the most pressing ones.


----------



## Barefooter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *war4peace*
> 
> Is this the right place to ask a few questions which extend the scope of this thread? If offtopic, I can create a new thread...
> 
> Anyway, since I own an Aquaero 6 LT I thought to expand its functionality (Aquabus, Farbwerk, etc) - Aquabus looks specifically appealing. However, the documentation is sketchy at best and the various videos I've watched on Youtube seem to make things even more confusing. Often I've encountered videos contradicting each other, with documentation muddying the waters further.
> 
> Will try to break down the questions into simple ones...
> 
> 1. Aquabus: Does it support device daisy-chaining? If so, how should this be done?
> 2. USB-Aquabus: what happens if both cables are connected?
> 
> More will stem from these, I guess but for now these are the most pressing ones.


1. You can use Aquabus Y-cable and daisy chain them together, or use a Splitty 9 up to four Aquabus devices can be used together.

2. You have to initially plug the USB cable in to set up the Aquabus devices in Aquasuite, then you can remove the USB cable. You can also leave the USB cable connected.


----------



## Master Chicken

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *war4peace*
> 
> 1. Aquabus: Does it support device daisy-chaining? If so, how should this be done?
> 2. USB-Aquabus: what happens if both cables are connected?


1) That's why the Farbwerk and Poweradjust have two Aquabus headers on them ... to make daisy chaining simple. You come in from another device on one header and go out to the next device on the other.

2) Most people prefer the Aquabus because they have multiple AC devices and don't have oodles of USB2 ports on their motherboard. As you've probably read, the only caveat is that sometimes you need to set the Aquabus ID of a device before you use it and the only way to do that is by connecting it temporarily to USB to modify the setting so that it doesn't conflict with another AC device. I'm not sure that anyone really bothers leaving both plugged in at the same time but I'm sure it's possible. I believe both will be recognized by AquaSuite but since I don't have one plugged into both at the moment (and I'm not at home), I can't really say what AquaSuite does with that. I think a lot of people running AC products but not from an AQ5 or AQ6 are perfectly fine running over USB alone. I believe the Aquabus will receive priority over USB in the software.


----------



## Mega Man

just to add, really this is the a.c. monitoring thread, don't hesitate to ask questions

To go further on the above 2, I leave them plugged into both. But I think the main reason is the aquaero cant control from (meaning from any data given from the other device) or to (meaning the device itself) of anything that isn't connected directly to it (ie aquabus)


----------



## macst34

Re: PWM1/PWM2 usage.

Hi Folks,

I am new here and I will be getting a aquaero 6 soon. I think I read through most of the thread, but I don't think I came across any posts with specifics.

I was wondering if anyone has actually used PWM1/PWM2 to light up a single color LED or strip before?

Can someone supply a pinout/wiring diagram?

If I am just powering a 12V single color LED, do I need to put a resistor inline? if so, what value?

Thanks in advance.

macst34


----------



## macst34

Re: 6xt vs 5xt faceplates

Hi folks,

I was thinking of getting a black faceplate for my aquaero 6 XT.



There seems to be an old faceplate for the aquaero 5 XT. I prefer the look of the old faceplate, but the website warns of incompatibility.

Can anyone tell me the exact differences and why the old 5xt faceplate won't fit a 6xt ?

macst34


----------



## war4peace

Just a quick update: today I spent the whole day building my new machine.
In the end, I have mixed feelings about it.

1. Found out Aquasuite crashes on launch if MSI Afterburner is started. Now I am torn between the two, because I like both. What do you guys go about it?
2. I could not connect the flow meter to the Aquaero because the 3-pin cable which came with the Aquaero was incompatible with the flow meter. I got the Flow sensor high flow G1/4 for aquaero, aquastream XT ultra and poweradjust which did not come with a cable. I think the Aquaero-provided cable is for the RPM output to the motherboard... so that leaves me with having to order the cable from Aquacomputer. Why don't they supply a cable with the Flow Sensor is beyond me. Now I have to figure out which cable exactly should I order...
3. I had to link my pumps to the FAN1 header because the cable headers provided with the pumps were 4-pin and the PWM headers on the Aquaero are 2-pin - at least it works.

Unrelated, the MasterFan Pro 120 Air Pressure fans I got for one of the radiators make a weird crunching noise at most speeds, it's really annoying. I'll have to investigate further as to why this noise is happening. And the Silverstone RGB strips were defective: one of them has bad LEDs, called it DOA, I have to replace it.


----------



## Master Chicken

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *war4peace*
> 
> Just a quick update: today I spent the whole day building my new machine.
> In the end, I have mixed feelings about it.
> 
> 3. I had to link my pumps to the FAN1 header because the cable headers provided with the pumps were 4-pin and the PWM headers on the Aquaero are 2-pin - at least it works.


They're supposed to be driven from the fan headers. I don't recall what the PWM headers are for but I think just about no one uses them. They are literally 12V pulse width modulated. The are not an Intel Spec PWM fan signal.


----------



## war4peace

Fair enough, I was just thrown off by the fact that the Pumps section in the Aquasuite is empty. Maybe it's for Aquacomputer pumps?


----------



## Master Chicken

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *war4peace*
> 
> Fair enough, I was just thrown off by the fact that the Pumps section in the Aquasuite is empty. Maybe it's for Aquacomputer pumps?


I'm sure they had some plan for them at some point. I've only been using since the AQ6 though. I'll bet someone with more history with their stuff knows. I'd love to learn as well.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *macst34*
> 
> Re: PWM1/PWM2 usage.
> 
> Hi Folks,
> 
> I am new here and I will be getting a aquaero 6 soon. I think I read through most of the thread, but I don't think I came across any posts with specifics.
> 
> I was wondering if anyone has actually used PWM1/PWM2 to light up a single color LED or strip before?
> 
> Can someone supply a pinout/wiring diagram?
> 
> If I am just powering a 12V single color LED, do I need to put a resistor inline? if so, what value?
> 
> Thanks in advance.
> 
> macst34


just for future ref, it is in the manual. that said if the led is 12vdc , then it should have a resistor, if adding an led, yes. but those marketed at 12vdc generally have one, that said refer to its manual !!!


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!






Quote:


> Originally Posted by *macst34*
> 
> Re: 6xt vs 5xt faceplates
> 
> Hi folks,
> 
> I was thinking of getting a black faceplate for my aquaero 6 XT.
> 
> There seems to be an old faceplate for the aquaero 5 XT. I prefer the look of the old faceplate, but the website warns of incompatibility.
> 
> Can anyone tell me the exact differences and why the old 5xt faceplate won't fit a 6xt ?
> 
> macst34


2 issues iirc

1 they could not read the remote well, maybe ? ( a long time ago sorry ) and 2 iirc the buttons ( touch buttons ) were inaccurately "feeling" pressed
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *war4peace*
> 
> Just a quick update: today I spent the whole day building my new machine.
> In the end, I have mixed feelings about it.
> 
> 1. Found out Aquasuite crashes on launch if MSI Afterburner is started. Now I am torn between the two, because I like both. What do you guys go about it?
> 2. I could not connect the flow meter to the Aquaero because the 3-pin cable which came with the Aquaero was incompatible with the flow meter. I got the Flow sensor high flow G1/4 for aquaero, aquastream XT ultra and poweradjust which did not come with a cable. I think the Aquaero-provided cable is for the RPM output to the motherboard... so that leaves me with having to order the cable from Aquacomputer. Why don't they supply a cable with the Flow Sensor is beyond me. Now I have to figure out which cable exactly should I order...
> 3. I had to link my pumps to the FAN1 header because the cable headers provided with the pumps were 4-pin and the PWM headers on the Aquaero are 2-pin - at least it works.
> 
> Unrelated, the MasterFan Pro 120 Air Pressure fans I got for one of the radiators make a weird crunching noise at most speeds, it's really annoying. I'll have to investigate further as to why this noise is happening. And the Silverstone RGB strips were defective: one of them has bad LEDs, called it DOA, I have to replace it.


1 known issue will try to edit in the fix see below , - really easy
2 yea, no one including shoggy knows. frankly the minifit jr ( aka the pcie/atx eps/ 24pin ) pins will work if oyu can make a custom cable. i just covered mine with heat shrink, i think it looks great.
3 ( not trying to sound rude) i would recommend reading the instructions as mentioned iirc it is 25hz pwm 12vdc OUTPUTS not inputs !!!!! generally used for leds, but can be many other things 12vdc less then 1a including a relay
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> *General information for Windows 10 Creators Update and possible aquasuite crash*
> 
> Some of you will run into this problem for sure and we already did the dirty work
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If your aquasuite can not be started or even installed after the Windows 10 Creators Update, it is very likely because you use Riva Tuner oder MSI Afterburner which includes Riva Tuner. As long as these tools do not run there is no problem. But as soon as you start them, the aquasuite will crash or not work anymore. Riva Tuner is a x32 application while aquasuite works as x64 and Windows itself already prevents x32 applications to mess around with x64 stuff. It seems that with the Creators update something in this direction has been changed, extended or whatever and is causing the crash.
> 
> We were able to track down the problem to its root with a test setup that uses Windows 10 64 Bit with Creators Update (Build 15063) and RivaTuner Statistic Server 6.6.0 or the current 6.7.0 Beta 1 with the profile set to Low/Medium/High. With this combination every 64 Bit .NET WPF application crashes. This happens when a .NET application as been compiled with the flag "prefer 32 bit" set to disabled. The default value for this flag is enabled so you will not see problem with most other .NET applications. Using 32 bit or no GPU acceleration is no solution because data-intense stuff like the charts or logging would see a clear performance drop.
> 
> We have done a small hello world demo app to verify this problem with different compiler settings:
> 
> WPF 64 Bit application (Default Renderer, uses GPU acceleration) = Crash
> WPF 64 Bit application (Software Renderer, no GPU acceleration) = works
> WPF 32 Bit application = works (since Riva Tuner is also x32)
> Windows Forms 64 Bit application (no GPU acceleration) = works
> Windows Forms 32 Bit application (no GPU acceleration) = works
> 
> For those who want to give it a try. We provide a ZIP archive with the source code of the demo app and the compiled EXE files for download in our forum. (RivatunerBug.zip)
> Please make sure to set the detection level in Riva Tuner to high. The demo app does not render much stuff so lower settings will not trigger the demo app.
> 
> In the end the the problem is how Riva Tuner as x32 application tries to hook into the x64 aquasuite. We can not tell if it is Riva Tuner that does something wrong here or if it is Microsoft that must have changed something with the .NET Direct-X interface lately. What we know for sure: we can not fix it; it must be done by Riva Tuner oder Microsoft.
> 
> *The current workaround is to put the aquasuite to the exception list of Riva Tuner so it will not trigger the aquasuite anymore.*
> 
> Those who have the problem that the Aqua Computer service does not start automatically anymore: just reinstall the aquasuite (keep old data) so that the service will be reinstalled too and the problem is gone.





Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!






Quote:


> Originally Posted by *war4peace*
> 
> Fair enough, I was just thrown off by the fact that the Pumps section in the Aquasuite is empty. Maybe it's for Aquacomputer pumps?


aquabus pumps ( aquastream and d5s )

i wish they made ddc aquabus pumps :/


----------



## BoredErica

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tomsonx1983*
> 
> Any one have high cpu usage by aquasuite service ?
> It takes 16% of cpu usage in idle


Uses like 0.1-1.5% for me. So I just closed the service, lol.


----------



## Mads1

Getting ready for some Aquaero love.


----------



## Mega Man

Nice, now would you mind sharing the template for the aquaero,

Just the basic one if we were to have one fabricated with a cnc


----------



## Mads1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> Nice, now would you mind sharing the template for the aquaero,
> 
> Just the basic one if we were to have one fabricated with a cnc


Sent you a PM


----------



## war4peace

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> just for future ref, it is in the manual. that said if the led is 12vdc , then it should have a resistor, if adding an led, yes. but those marketed at 12vdc generally have one, that said refer to its manual !!!
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 2 issues iirc
> 
> 1 they could not read the remote well, maybe ? ( a long time ago sorry ) and 2 iirc the buttons ( touch buttons ) were inaccurately "feeling" pressed
> 1 known issue will try to edit in the fix see below , - really easy
> 2 yea, no one including shoggy knows. frankly the minifit jr ( aka the pcie/atx eps/ 24pin ) pins will work if oyu can make a custom cable. i just covered mine with heat shrink, i think it looks great.
> 3 ( not trying to sound rude) i would recommend reading the instructions as mentioned iirc it is 25hz pwm 12vdc OUTPUTS not inputs !!!!! generally used for leds, but can be many other things 12vdc less then 1a including a relay
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> aquabus pumps ( aquastream and d5s )
> 
> i wish they made ddc aquabus pumps :/


Thank you, I disabled OSD in RivaTuner entirely, I didn't need it anyway.
I did read the manual, but missed some sections


----------



## Radox-0

Picked up a Aquaduct 720 XT, lovely bit of kit, but also my first hands on with an Aquero unit via the build in one. Just been tinkering with it last few weeks and dialling in the settings I want.

One metric I do not understand quiet what it is measuring is "Water Quality" and how or what it is measuring exactly. Had a google search and search through thread and not found anything so apologise if I missed something obvious. Right now it just varies from 60% up to 80% with no obvious reason as to why.


----------



## war4peace

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Radox-0*
> 
> Picked up a Aquaduct 720 XT, lovely bit of kit, but also my first hands on with an Aquero unit via the build in one. Just been tinkering with it last few weeks and dialling in the settings I want.
> 
> One metric I do not understand quiet what it is measuring is "Water Quality" and how or what it is measuring exactly. Had a google search and search through thread and not found anything so apologise if I missed something obvious. Right now it just varies from 60% up to 80% with no obvious reason as to why.


Found a reference here saying "Water Quality is a calculated value from a _water conductivity measurement (particulates in the water)_ and was stated as not to be relied on."

There are further entries detailing this more, but generally, it seems that it's a conductivity measurement sensor which is thrown off by dyes and so on.


----------



## Radox-0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *war4peace*
> 
> Found a reference here saying "Water Quality is a calculated value from a _water conductivity measurement (particulates in the water)_ and was stated as not to be relied on."
> 
> There are further entries detailing this more, but generally, it seems that it's a conductivity measurement sensor which is thrown off by dyes and so on.


Brilliant, thanks for that. On the surface seems not all that important then. Just was puzzled why its been changing by such large margins on a continuous basis and what exactly it was measuring.


----------



## macst34

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> just for future ref, it is in the manual. that said if the led is 12vdc , then it should have a resistor, if adding an led, yes. but those marketed at 12vdc generally have one, that said refer to its manual !!!
> :/


Hi Mega Man,

So...you are telling me to buy one to find out how to make my own?

Yeah....I think I wanted a bit more specific information.

Thanks anyways,

macst34

.


----------



## Mega Man

No, i never said buy it, and take it apart.

I said if you buy a loose led you would needed to add one.

If you are buying a led marketed as a 12vdc led it already should have them. As they market it as a 12vdv led ie you power it with 12vdc


----------



## iamjanco

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *macst34*
> 
> Re: PWM1/PWM2 usage.
> 
> I am new here and I will be getting a aquaero 6 soon. I think I read through most of the thread, but I don't think I came across any posts with specifics.
> 
> I was wondering if anyone has actually used PWM1/PWM2 to light up a single color LED or strip before?
> 
> Can someone supply a pinout/wiring diagram?
> 
> If I am just powering a 12V single color LED, do I need to put a resistor inline? if so, what value?
> 
> macst34


You might try *starting with this post* and read through the rest of posts on the same page there. I'm afraid it doesn't answer a few of your more specific questions though.

As MegaMan stated, the pinout's are in the manual (a *pdf download* via *AquaComputer's Downloads page*). I'm not sure whether anyone has gone beyond that documenting a diagram/schematic that includes the PWM 1/2 ports.

An excerpt from the relevant section follows:

4.4. Connector "PWM 1/2"
Pulse width modulated 12 V outputs, maximum current load 1 A, carrier frequency 15 kHz. Suitable for example for 12 V LEDs, not compatible with PWM fans or pumps. Pin assignment: Pin 1: VCC Pin 2: GND

There's also a Section 14.1, LED outputs in the manual, which you may wish to have a look at.

As for resistor values for hooking up individual leds, not sure you'll find that info here, *but you might find this relevant*. That said, some have used Darkside and other led strips in configurations using the Aquaero to control them, which you can read more about from *this point in the same thread*.

Lastly, Google is your friend


----------



## WiLd FyeR

Can someone provide a guide on how to update the Aquasuite program. For some reason it will not open with the latest Windows 10 update.


----------



## WiLd FyeR

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiLd FyeR*
> 
> Can someone provide a guide on how to update the Aquasuite program. For some reason it will not open with the latest Windows 10 update.


Nevermind, i was able to figure it out.


----------



## Phaedrus89

Soon to be new auquero owner here. I'm in the process of building my new rig and would like to use several auqacomputer parts to accomplish a couple of goals. I'm finding myself more confused than enlightened when it comes to setting up an Aquaero 6 LT. I'm very much a visual and detail oriented person and want to make sure I have all my ducks in a row before I go ahead and give PPCS all my money









I want to accomplish several things with the LT and accompanying products and I'm hoping for a bit of guidance for someone getting their feet wet (pun intended) with custom loop control.

1. Control 3 Fan groups (20 fans) on independent channels and curves. I'll be using EK-VARDAR F4-120ER. 8 in push pull on the top RAD. 8 in push pull on the basement RAD. 3 in the front of the chassis and 1 in the rear of the chassis. Each group connecting to a splitty9. Total of ~43w. The LT shows 30w per channel so 3 channels for each of the groups and I should be fine here....I think.

2. Control pump speed and monitor RPM via Aquasuite. It's my understanding that the 6LT requires the use of Aquacomputer D5 Pump Mechanics with USB and Aquabus Interface It appears as though you connect the pump to the pump top. Use the included 4 pin fan cable (aquabus cable) to hook up to the LT "high" header and use an internal USB cable to connect to a USB header. Unsure whether to leave this connected or if it can be removed after its detected in aquasuite.

3. Monitor flow rate. All I should need is Aquacomputer Flow Sensor 'High Flow' G1/4 for Aquaero 5/6 , Aquastream XT Ultra and Poweradjust Connect to the flow header.

4. Monitor coolant temps. Aquacomputer Temperature Sensor - Inner/Outer Thread G1/4 Looks as though this termocouple fitting should hook directly to one of the 1-15 sensor 2pin headers.

Does anyone have experience using the Aqua D5 pump with a protium D5 pump top from Singularity computers? A liang D5 is a liang D5 but I'd rather avoid any potential unknowns here.

Hoping someone can validate how I'm thinking everything should be hooked up. Thank you in advanced


----------



## ttnuagmada

That all looks right and is pretty much exactly what I'm doing. I might be mistaken, but I think you really only need the USB/Aquabus pumps if you want to use Aquasuite but don't have an Aquaero, or if you need all of the fan channels open. I personally went with the regular PWM pumps. 3 fan channels for splitty 9's and 1 for the d5's

What I do know is that with the PWM D5 pumps, you pretty much want to stick to the Aquacomputer pumps, because other d5's don't play nice with the Aquaero's PWM control.


----------



## Phaedrus89

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ttnuagmada*
> 
> That all looks right and is pretty much exactly what I'm doing. I might be mistaken, but I think you really only need the USB/Aquabus pumps if you want to use Aquasuite but don't have an Aquaero, or if you need all of the fan channels open. I personally went with the regular PWM pumps. 3 fan channels for splitty 9's and 1 for the d5's
> 
> What I do know is that with the PWM D5 pumps, you pretty much want to stick to the Aquacomputer pumps, because other d5's don't play nice with the Aquaero's PWM control.


Thanks for the prompt response!

So you're suggesting: Aquacomputer D5 Pump Motor with PWM Input and Speed Signal

Over

Aquacomputer D5 Pump Mechanics with USB and Aquabus Interface

Looks as though option two would just use the 4pin "high" header and an additional molex from the PSU? Meaning I would only need to occupy a single USB 2.0 mobo header?

Any benefit to using my last remaining fan header/channel over the high speed bus header?

Silly question....I'm assuming when the directions state:
"For PWM fans, select "Outputs" "Fans" "Fan → → 1-4" from the menu" This can be accomplished via Aquasuite in lieu of having an XT model that has a screen and remote?
and set "Control mode" to "PWM controlled".


----------



## ttnuagmada

I don't think there is any specific advantage to using Aquabus instead of a fan channel other than to free up the fan channel and to use the temp connector (which is not really necessary with the amount of temp connectors the Aquaero has). You may let someone else chime in on this though, I'm mostly going based on what I've read. I personally went with the PWM pumps because I couldn't find any advantage to the Aquabus pumps, and don't need the extra fan channel.

As for the fan channels, yes, each channel can individually be switched between voltage or PWM.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phaedrus89*
> 
> Soon to be new auquero owner here. I'm in the process of building my new rig and would like to use several auqacomputer parts to accomplish a couple of goals. I'm finding myself more confused than enlightened when it comes to setting up an Aquaero 6 LT. I'm very much a visual and detail oriented person and want to make sure I have all my ducks in a row before I go ahead and give PPCS all my money
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I want to accomplish several things with the LT and accompanying products and I'm hoping for a bit of guidance for someone getting their feet wet (pun intended) with custom loop control.
> 
> 1. Control 3 Fan groups (20 fans) on independent channels and curves. I'll be using EK-VARDAR F4-120ER. 8 in push pull on the top RAD. 8 in push pull on the basement RAD. 3 in the front of the chassis and 1 in the rear of the chassis. Each group connecting to a splitty9. Total of ~43w. The LT shows 30w per channel so 3 channels for each of the groups and I should be fine here....I think.
> 
> 2. Control pump speed and monitor RPM via Aquasuite. It's my understanding that the 6LT requires the use of Aquacomputer D5 Pump Mechanics with USB and Aquabus Interface It appears as though you connect the pump to the pump top. Use the included 4 pin fan cable (aquabus cable) to hook up to the LT "high" header and use an internal USB cable to connect to a USB header. Unsure whether to leave this connected or if it can be removed after its detected in aquasuite.
> 
> 3. Monitor flow rate. All I should need is Aquacomputer Flow Sensor 'High Flow' G1/4 for Aquaero 5/6 , Aquastream XT Ultra and Poweradjust Connect to the flow header.
> 
> 4. Monitor coolant temps. Aquacomputer Temperature Sensor - Inner/Outer Thread G1/4 Looks as though this termocouple fitting should hook directly to one of the 1-15 sensor 2pin headers.
> 
> Does anyone have experience using the Aqua D5 pump with a protium D5 pump top from Singularity computers? A liang D5 is a liang D5 but I'd rather avoid any potential unknowns here.
> 
> Hoping someone can validate how I'm thinking everything should be hooked up. Thank you in advanced


1 looks to be fine. if pwm you can always move power to a direct from psu supply

that said dont forget to take into account what th esplitty 9 can take power draw wise ( i dont know this sorry, probably around 5 a? )

2 imo it is sill to not have it hooked up but like the aquaero it will function without connection once setup. i would reccomend at least doing aquabus if not both

3fyi the power adj is a different thing. you dont need it any of the flow sensors would work imo get the 3 pin not the usb model, ( AND THE CABLE WHICH IS SEPARATE )

4 fyi any 2 pin sensor will work fine !
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phaedrus89*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *ttnuagmada*
> 
> That all looks right and is pretty much exactly what I'm doing. I might be mistaken, but I think you really only need the USB/Aquabus pumps if you want to use Aquasuite but don't have an Aquaero, or if you need all of the fan channels open. I personally went with the regular PWM pumps. 3 fan channels for splitty 9's and 1 for the d5's
> 
> What I do know is that with the PWM D5 pumps, you pretty much want to stick to the Aquacomputer pumps, because other d5's don't play nice with the Aquaero's PWM control.
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for the prompt response!
> 
> So you're suggesting: Aquacomputer D5 Pump Motor with PWM Input and Speed Signal
> 
> Over
> 
> Aquacomputer D5 Pump Mechanics with USB and Aquabus Interface
> 
> Looks as though option two would just use the 4pin "high" header and an additional molex from the PSU? Meaning I would only need to occupy a single USB 2.0 mobo header?
> 
> Any benefit to using my last remaining fan header/channel over the high speed bus header?
> 
> Silly question....I'm assuming when the directions state:
> "For PWM fans, select "Outputs" "Fans" "Fan → → 1-4" from the menu" This can be accomplished via Aquasuite in lieu of having an XT model that has a screen and remote?
> and set "Control mode" to "PWM controlled".
Click to expand...

personal pref, tbh oyu dont need it, a vario is sufficient, pumps are usually set it and forget it
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ttnuagmada*
> 
> I don't think there is any specific advantage to using Aquabus instead of a fan channel other than to free up the fan channel and to use the temp connector (which is not really necessary with the amount of temp connectors the Aquaero has). You may let someone else chime in on this though, I'm mostly going based on what I've read. I personally went with the PWM pumps because I couldn't find any advantage to the Aquabus pumps, and don't need the extra fan channel.
> 
> As for the fan channels, yes, each channel can individually be switched between voltage or PWM.


personal pref


----------



## hadesfactor

Hey guys quick question does anyone know if PPCS RMA's Aquacomputer stuff or does it have to be sent back to aquacomputer......I just finished my build and im doing my leak tests when I noticed the fan on Fan4 wasn't working...only fan on that channel so I plugged it into one of my splitter and it fires right up....also having another issue but it might just be the sensor....one of my temps sensor plugs are showing the temp negatively...the correct temp just negative lol I tried swapping it around put it on different temp inputs the same


----------



## Ashcroft

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *macst34*
> 
> Re: PWM1/PWM2 usage.
> 
> Hi Folks,
> 
> I am new here and I will be getting a aquaero 6 soon. I think I read through most of the thread, but I don't think I came across any posts with specifics.
> 
> I was wondering if anyone has actually used PWM1/PWM2 to light up a single color LED or strip before?
> 
> Can someone supply a pinout/wiring diagram?
> 
> If I am just powering a 12V single color LED, do I need to put a resistor inline? if so, what value?
> 
> Thanks in advance.
> 
> macst34


The PWM 1/2 ports are 12V ports that can be modulated with PWM to effect a similar result to lowering voltage. As such any LED's you use must be 12V and dim-able (If indeed you do plan to lower the brightness, though it would be pointless to use the Aquaero otherwise).

Single colour strips up to 1A work great. 1A is a lot of LED's so you can usually put at least a couple of 300mm strips on each header.
If you use a single 12V LED then no resistors are needed. That is usually for lowering voltages.

They are just 2 pin headers + and ground so its pretty easy to sort it out once you have the right connectors to put on the strips. You need to cut off whatever connector they come with, like 3 pin fan connectors for example, and strip the wires for the new connector.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hadesfactor*
> 
> Hey guys quick question does anyone know if PPCS RMA's Aquacomputer stuff or does it have to be sent back to aquacomputer......I just finished my build and im doing my leak tests when I noticed the fan on Fan4 wasn't working...only fan on that channel so I plugged it into one of my splitter and it fires right up....also having another issue but it might just be the sensor....one of my temps sensor plugs are showing the temp negatively...the correct temp just negative lol I tried swapping it around put it on different temp inputs the same


pretty sure they send it off.


----------



## lovan6

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hadesfactor*
> 
> Hey guys quick question does anyone know if PPCS RMA's Aquacomputer stuff or does it have to be sent back to aquacomputer......I just finished my build and im doing my leak tests when I noticed the fan on Fan4 wasn't working...only fan on that channel so I plugged it into one of my splitter and it fires right up....also having another issue but it might just be the sensor....one of my temps sensor plugs are showing the temp negatively...the correct temp just negative lol I tried swapping it around put it on different temp inputs the same


You need to contact Aquacomputer support from Germany. [email protected]

Read the Aquaero manual you may want to reset to factory. This will save you time sending the Aquaero back to Germany.

You may also need to use jumper pins and download firmware again.instructions are in the manual


----------



## Phaedrus89

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> 1 looks to be fine. if pwm you can always move power to a direct from psu supply
> 
> that said dont forget to take into account what th esplitty 9 can take power draw wise ( i dont know this sorry, probably around 5 a? )
> 
> 2 imo it is sill to not have it hooked up but like the aquaero it will function without connection once setup. i would reccomend at least doing aquabus if not both
> 
> 3fyi the power adj is a different thing. you dont need it any of the flow sensors would work imo get the 3 pin not the usb model, ( AND THE CABLE WHICH IS SEPARATE )
> 
> 4 fyi any 2 pin sensor will work fine !
> personal pref, tbh oyu dont need it, a vario is sufficient, pumps are usually set it and forget it
> personal pref


Thanks for the feedback.

The splitty 9 can handle 5 amps. The vardar fans are very low power draw, so no issue here.
Per "ttnuagmada" suggestion, I've opted for the 3 pin flow rate monitor.
I've also opted for the D5 pump without the aquabus interface. I'll either use the high speed bus header or the 4th fan header to control it.

As for the temperature fitting, PPCS is out of stock for now. I know you said you can use any two pin thremocouple fitting, however the other aquacomputer fittings are listed as "For VISION" I'm assuming any other G1/4 temp fitting will be suitable?

Lastly, anyone have feedback on the protium pump top and the aquacomputer pump?


----------



## hadesfactor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lovan6*
> 
> You need to contact Aquacomputer support from Germany. [email protected]
> 
> Read the Aquaero manual you may want to reset to factory. This will save you time sending the Aquaero back to Germany.


Thanks didn't even think about that...1st time with the AQ6lly that works I would hate to have to wait to RMA this thing to Germany and wait weeks for it


----------



## ttnuagmada

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phaedrus89*
> 
> Thanks for the feedback.
> 
> The splitty 9 can handle 5 amps. The vardar fans are very low power draw, so no issue here.
> Per "ttnuagmada" suggestion, I've opted for the 3 pin flow rate monitor.
> I've also opted for the D5 pump without the aquabus interface. I'll either use the high speed bus header or the 4th fan header to control it.
> 
> As for the temperature fitting, PPCS is out of stock for now. I know you said you can use any two pin thremocouple fitting, however the other aquacomputer fittings are listed as "For VISION" I'm assuming any other G1/4 temp fitting will be suitable?


I can confirm that the Alphacool Eiszapfen inline temp sensors work with the Aquaero. Also, make sure you get the cable for the flow meter, it doesn't come with one for some reason.


----------



## ttnuagmada

double post


----------



## Ashcroft

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phaedrus89*
> 
> Soon to be new auquero owner here. I'm in the process of building my new rig and would like to use several auqacomputer parts to accomplish a couple of goals. I'm finding myself more confused than enlightened when it comes to setting up an Aquaero 6 LT. I'm very much a visual and detail oriented person and want to make sure I have all my ducks in a row before I go ahead and give PPCS all my money
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I want to accomplish several things with the LT and accompanying products and I'm hoping for a bit of guidance for someone getting their feet wet (pun intended) with custom loop control.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 1. Control 3 Fan groups (20 fans) on independent channels and curves. I'll be using EK-VARDAR F4-120ER. 8 in push pull on the top RAD. 8 in push pull on the basement RAD. 3 in the front of the chassis and 1 in the rear of the chassis. Each group connecting to a splitty9. Total of ~43w. The LT shows 30w per channel so 3 channels for each of the groups and I should be fine here....I think.
> 
> 2. Control pump speed and monitor RPM via Aquasuite. It's my understanding that the 6LT requires the use of Aquacomputer D5 Pump Mechanics with USB and Aquabus Interface It appears as though you connect the pump to the pump top. Use the included 4 pin fan cable (aquabus cable) to hook up to the LT "high" header and use an internal USB cable to connect to a USB header. Unsure whether to leave this connected or if it can be removed after its detected in aquasuite.
> 
> 3. Monitor flow rate. All I should need is Aquacomputer Flow Sensor 'High Flow' G1/4 for Aquaero 5/6 , Aquastream XT Ultra and Poweradjust Connect to the flow header.
> 
> 4. Monitor coolant temps. Aquacomputer Temperature Sensor - Inner/Outer Thread G1/4 Looks as though this termocouple fitting should hook directly to one of the 1-15 sensor 2pin headers.
> 
> Does anyone have experience using the Aqua D5 pump with a protium D5 pump top from Singularity computers? A liang D5 is a liang D5 but I'd rather avoid any potential unknowns here.
> 
> Hoping someone can validate how I'm thinking everything should be hooked up. Thank you in advanced


If you have the choice I always recommend the Aquabus/USB D5 for use with the Aquaero. It does not take up a fan header that could be used for something else and means the pump shows up as a pump in the monitoring software instead of a fan labled as a pump.
There are no issues with PWM compatibility and gives the same level of control as a normal D5 vario.

The protium will work just fine with the USB D5 but the pump cover has a rear plate that will not fit without modification or just leaving it off, similar to the bitspower pump covers for their pump tops. I would modify it by cutting a slot for the extra wiring headers like I have on my EK ones but just leaving the rear plate off should still look nearly as good.

per your other post about temp sensors, the ones labled as for vision just means they use a different, smaller connector that isn't suitable for the Aquaero or most other temp inputs like on the poweradjust or pumps. Most temp sensors available use the standard 2.54mm 2 pin connectors that suit the Aquaero and most other fan controllers on the market.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phaedrus89*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> 1 looks to be fine. if pwm you can always move power to a direct from psu supply
> 
> that said dont forget to take into account what th esplitty 9 can take power draw wise ( i dont know this sorry, probably around 5 a? )
> 
> 2 imo it is sill to not have it hooked up but like the aquaero it will function without connection once setup. i would reccomend at least doing aquabus if not both
> 
> 3fyi the power adj is a different thing. you dont need it any of the flow sensors would work imo get the 3 pin not the usb model, ( AND THE CABLE WHICH IS SEPARATE )
> 
> 4 fyi any 2 pin sensor will work fine !
> personal pref, tbh oyu dont need it, a vario is sufficient, pumps are usually set it and forget it
> personal pref
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for the feedback.
> 
> The splitty 9 can handle 5 amps. The vardar fans are very low power draw, so no issue here.
> Per "ttnuagmada" suggestion,*1* I've opted for the 3 pin flow rate monitor.
> I've also opted for the D5 pump without the aquabus interface.*2* I'll either use the high speed bus header or the 4th fan header to control it.
> *3*
> As for the temperature fitting, PPCS is out of stock for now. I know you said you can use any two pin thremocouple fitting, however the other aquacomputer fittings are listed as "For VISION" I'm assuming any other G1/4 temp fitting will be suitable?
> *4*
> Lastly, anyone have feedback on the protium pump top and the aquacomputer pump?
Click to expand...

1 Again either get the cable which is separate it be perpared to make one (i used the pcie/atx/eps pins and it worked great.

2 you CAN NOT use the high speed (read : aquabus) header! You would have to use a Fan header, if you try to use the high speed header you WILL damage your aquaero. If you get the usb version THEN you can use the aquabus

3 Yes any 2 pin will work with few exception ( Koolance gives to mind and apparently the vision ones )

4 no perasonal experience Sorry


----------



## Phaedrus89

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> 1 Again either get the cable which is separate it be perpared to make one (i used the pcie/atx/eps pins and it worked great.
> 
> 2 you CAN NOT use the high speed (read : aquabus) header! You would have to use a Fan header, if you try to use the high speed header you WILL damage your aquaero. If you get the usb version THEN you can use the aquabus
> 
> 3 Yes any 2 pin will work with few exception ( Koolance gives to mind and apparently the vision ones )
> 
> 4 no perasonal experience Sorry


Noted! thank you

1. Aquacomputer flow meter cable 3-pin Should do the trick after resleeving .

2. Channel 4 fan header it is! thanks for the heads up. Other than this note on the product page, I wouldn't have known not to use the aquabus header: If it has the potential to damage components, curious why its not overtly stated, unless I'm missing it.

"Important: The Aqua Computer D5 pump has an optimized PWM input and can be used with any Intel PWM standard compatible fan controller. This pump can be used with aquaero 5/6 PWM fan outputs without any heat dissipiation at the aquaero. All other currently available (as of January 2015) D5 pumps with PWM input use different hardware that will not work correctly with the PWM outputs of aquaero 5/6 devices. This pump is compatible with nearly any PWM fan controller on the market."


----------



## Mega Man

The last part - basically the d5 has a non standard pwm implication.

Aka xylem did not follow intel p w m specs.

Ac (and a few others)

Started putting " diva mods " in pumps. You can search this thread for the diva mod


----------



## Phaedrus89

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> The last part - basically the d5 has a non standard pwm implication.
> 
> Aka xylem did not follow intel p w m specs.
> 
> Ac (and a few others)
> 
> Started putting " diva mods " in pumps. You can search this thread for the diva mod


Ah, yes I do recall reading about those issues with D5 pumps not conforming to official PWM specs. Very nifty use of a couple resistors and a diode.
I take it both Aquacomputer D5's (aquabus/usb variant) and non USB PWM versions comply with actual PWM specifications?

Is it documented anywhere, the specs of the high speed and low speed aquabus on the 6LT? AKA: why you would hook the
aquabus D5 pump variant pump to the High speed bus but not the PWM Variant?


----------



## Gabrielzm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phaedrus89*
> 
> Ah, yes I do recall reading about those issues with D5 pumps not conforming to official PWM specs. Very nifty use of a couple resistors and a diode.
> I take it both Aquacomputer D5's (aquabus/usb variant) and non USB PWM versions comply with actual PWM specifications?
> 
> Is it documented anywhere, the specs of the high speed and low speed aquabus on the 6LT? AKA: why you would hook the
> aquabus D5 pump variant pump to the High speed bus but not the PWM Variant?


1) aquabus/usb variant is meant to be connected via aquabus and/or USB not on PWM header. Aquabus is a different spec than PWM.
2) Several vendors (EK and Aquacomputer at least) have now intel comply PWM D5 versions.
3) same as 1 above.


----------



## vvv850

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phaedrus89*
> 
> Ah, yes I do recall reading about those issues with D5 pumps not conforming to official PWM specs. Very nifty use of a couple resistors and a diode.
> I take it both Aquacomputer D5's (aquabus/usb variant) and non USB PWM versions comply with actual PWM specifications?
> 
> Is it documented anywhere, the specs of the high speed and low speed aquabus on the 6LT? AKA: why you would hook the
> aquabus D5 pump variant pump to the High speed bus but not the PWM Variant?


High speed is used for Aquabus (a proprietary protocol), low speed is not used anymore. The Aquabus variant pump is controlled through the proprietary bus, not PWM.


----------



## Mega Man

Others have answered your questions - aquabus is just the "ac" network


----------



## Phaedrus89

Makes sense now. I thought Aquabus and PWM were interchangeable. Is there any advantage to using one pump over the other in this instance? I mean it seems like a set it and forget it type thing.


----------



## vvv850

It has been posted recently. If you go the Aquabus way, you free up a pwm channel.


----------



## Mega Man

I guess the goal is more info - more power.

Basically monitor to see any potential issues.

Usually pumps are set and forget. Sometimes changing speeds can help in troubleshooting.

The USB pumps dont take a fan header - really useful when you have a larger build.

As well as a few additional inputs added to the aquaero.

But it is a MPS device and you are limited to 4 MPS device so pwm may Do you better.


----------



## Phaedrus89

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vvv850*
> 
> It has been posted recently. If you go the Aquabus way, you free up a pwm channel.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> I guess the goal is more info - more power.
> 
> Basically monitor to see any potential issues.
> 
> Usually pumps are set and forget. Sometimes changing speeds can help in troubleshooting.
> 
> The USB pumps dont take a fan header - really useful when you have a larger build.
> 
> As well as a few additional inputs added to the aquaero.
> 
> But it is a MPS device and you are limited to 4 MPS device so pwm may Do you better.


Thanks everyone. I just love to over complicate and second guess all my decisions. I see no real advantage to using the aquabus when I will be using a flow meter and temp sensor, so I'll just stick with the PWM variant off of the remaining fan header on the 6LT. All i'm really concerned about is being able to monitor the pump speed to potentially diagnose issues in my loop.


----------



## Mega Man

Np let us know ANY further questions


----------



## hadesfactor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lovan6*
> 
> You need to contact Aquacomputer support from Germany. [email protected]
> 
> Read the Aquaero manual you may want to reset to factory. This will save you time sending the Aquaero back to Germany.
> 
> You may also need to use jumper pins and download firmware again.instructions are in the manual


Doing a hard reset fixed the fan channel! Now hopefully after I update the FW the Temp sensor might be fixed but IDK.....I swapped the sensor to several inputs and all of them reading the temp in the negative might just be a bad sensor who knows But I wanted to thank you again saved me a lot of hassle lol


----------



## Revan654

I'm wondering if anyone can help. I have two aquaero 6 XT (Blue).

The first one is perfect. The second has been causing me issues from day one.

I recently decided to add a black faceplate to them. The first one I had zero problems install the faceplate with standoffs & mounting device.

However the second one is where all the problems are.

The screws do not reach the standoffs with faceplate & mounting devices installed. Second position of the screw holes do not line up with the standoffs. Only way to install them is at an angle. Which is not an option.

I was wondering if anyone knows how to install these parts correctly on my second aquaero 6 XT (Blue)? It starting to look like the second AQ6 alignment is off causing all these problems.


----------



## macst34

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> The screws do not reach the standoffs with faceplate & mounting devices installed. Second position of the screw holes do not line up with the standoffs. Only way to install them is at an angle. Which is not an option.


Pictures?


----------



## Mega Man

Yea, sorry I need pics.

If you mean the mounting screws to the 5.25 drives out is a known issue, ac said they fixed it, but from what I have seen it is hit or miss.

If you have a caselabs labs they sell a special mount for it due to this that works great


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> Yea, sorry I need pics.
> 
> If you mean the mounting screws to the 5.25 drives out is a known issue, ac said they fixed it, but from what I have seen it is hit or miss.
> 
> If you have a caselabs labs they sell a special mount for it due to this that works great


I'll post pictures later. I'm talking about the front screws that hold faceplate, LCD screen & mounting brackets together.


----------



## cekim

New to the Aquaera (6 XT). At this point, I have fans/pumps pegged at 90% each so this is purely about getting a good temp reading for future refinement - question is how are others probing temp to do so as I'm not getting a useful temp in my setup:

TLR background:
- dual loop system - 2xcpu and 2xgpu each probed with aquaero provided temp probes.
- dual cpu system, I intend to create a virtual sensor that takes the higher of the 2 CPUs and GPUs respectively in each loop for the cpu/gpu pump/fan values
- temp probes are copper taped (with TIM) on the side of the EK Supremacy block near the "out".
- used aluminum tape on top of the copper to provide more structure to the probe attachment and make it less prone to being ripped off during handling/install. The aluminum you see on the EK mounting bracket is beyond the probe point - it is down on the side of the nickle plated block below that under copper tape with TIM applied.
- Seem to be getting linear/reasonable readings in isolation, but 10C+ lower than software and slower to rise than expected.

So, where/how are people probing?

running an all-core stress-test here @46C package according to lm sensors in the OS:


----------



## vvv850

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cekim*
> 
> New to the Aquaera (6 XT). At this point, I have fans/pumps pegged at 90% each so this is purely about getting a good temp reading for future refinement - question is how are others probing temp to do so as I'm not getting a useful temp in my setup:
> 
> TLR background:
> - dual loop system - 2xcpu and 2xgpu each probed with aquaero provided temp probes.
> - dual cpu system, I intend to create a virtual sensor that takes the higher of the 2 CPUs and GPUs respectively in each loop for the cpu/gpu pump/fan values
> - temp probes are copper taped (with TIM) on the side of the EK Supremacy block near the "out".
> - used aluminum tape on top of the copper to provide more structure to the probe attachment and make it less prone to being ripped off during handling/install. The aluminum you see on the EK mounting bracket is beyond the probe point - it is down on the side of the nickle plated block below that under copper tape with TIM applied.
> - Seem to be getting linear/reasonable readings in isolation, but 10C+ lower than software and slower to rise than expected.
> 
> So, where/how are people probing?
> 
> running an all-core stress-test here @46C package according to lm sensors in the OS:


First of all, what are you trying to accomplish? Do you want to adjust your fans based on temperature readings? Then the best way to probe is to measure water temperature not block temps.

I have some inline temp sensors mounted on the inlets and outlets of the radiators and set the AQ6 to keep the water temperature below 33C. This way I eliminate any variables like ambient temps.


----------



## cekim

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vvv850*
> 
> First of all, what are you trying to accomplish? Do you want to adjust your fans based on temperature readings? Then the best way to probe is to measure water temperature not block temps.
> 
> I have some inline temp sensors mounted on the inlets and outlets of the radiators and set the AQ6 to keep the water temperature below 33C. This way I eliminate any variables like ambient temps.


Yes, I'd like modulate the PWM pumps/fans based on system load/temp to minimize noise but I need to adjust according to the hottest in each pair (cpu loop and gpu loop). A sensor at the inlet of each rad as you suggest would accomplish this. So, you are just taking the in/out delta as your fan/pump target temp?

Looks like I'll need some more parts to do something like that. In my case, I tend to have good control over ambient (or at least its always pretty cool), so a single sensor on the inlet/hot side should do for now.


----------



## vvv850

I average all 4 sensor temps under a virtual sensor and define a Set Point Controller in AQ6 with this virtual temperature sensor as source with a set value of 33C.

I don't vary the speed on my pumps. I measured at which speed I get 1GPM and no noise or vibration and set them at that.

In your case, with a dual loop, cu can add 2 sensors per loop (or only one per loop) and add 2 set point controllers.

In the past I used delta T (ambient/water temp) as a source for the fan speed controller but found out that it is much better to eliminate the ambient and go with what's important. This way I have complete silence during colder days and efficient cooling (without excessive noise) during hotter days.


----------



## macst34

cekim,

Any of the two wire 10k temp sensors from the link below will work. You can choose from inline or plug temp sensors depending on where you want to measure.

http://www.aquatuning.de/FinSearchAPI/search?sSearch=temperature

Also, nice setup. Are your two loops all ek?

macst34
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cekim*
> 
> So, where/how are people probing?


----------



## cekim

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *macst34*
> 
> cekim,
> 
> Any of the two wire 10k temp sensors from the link below will work. You can choose from inline or plug temp sensors depending on where you want to measure.
> 
> http://www.aquatuning.de/FinSearchAPI/search?sSearch=temperature
> 
> Also, nice setup. Are your two loops all ek?
> 
> macst34


Thanks for the links, I'll have to figure out where/what will fit. It's a pretty compact/dense setup (intentionally). Yes, EK.

vvv850, I try to keep the pumps flat rather than listen to them oscilate, but if/when they need to go full-bore, then I want them to do that as well. These are 2696v3 using the uCode the, so particularly AVX can suck a lot of power quickly. At the moment, I'm trying to figure out how much trouble I'm in from my VRMs no longer having rack-mount style airflow (lots of it) due to the new "case" (more of a frame).


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cekim*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *vvv850*
> 
> First of all, what are you trying to accomplish? Do you want to adjust your fans based on temperature readings? Then the best way to probe is to measure water temperature not block temps.
> 
> I have some inline temp sensors mounted on the inlets and outlets of the radiators and set the AQ6 to keep the water temperature below 33C. This way I eliminate any variables like ambient temps.
> 
> 
> 
> Yes, I'd like modulate the PWM pumps/fans based on system load/temp to minimize noise but I need to adjust according to the hottest in each pair (cpu loop and gpu loop). A sensor at the inlet of each rad as you suggest would accomplish this. So, you are just taking the in/out delta as your fan/pump target temp?
> 
> Looks like I'll need some more parts to do something like that. In my case, I tend to have good control over ambient (or at least its always pretty cool), so a single sensor on the inlet/hot side should do for now.
Click to expand...

Your best bet will be a air to water delta vs how you are trying now


----------



## war4peace

1. You do not need to vary pump speed. Rising flow only marginally improves cooling. Fan speeds have the greatest impact, liquid flow speed barely affects temperatures.
2. I use only one out of 5 sensors to control fans, that is the sensor that measures liquid temperature immediately after exiting the last heat generator (CPU in my case). Your CPU cores could be at 80 degrees while liquid temperature is at 35 and maxing out fans in this case adds zero improvement.
3. Use G1/4 plug sensors in a T-connector to directly measure liquid temperature and feed it to the Aquaero.


----------



## macst34

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *war4peace*
> 
> 3. Use G1/4 plug sensors in a T-connector to directly measure liquid temperature and feed it to the Aquaero.


Unless you need the T for occasional drainage or air inlet, it's simpler to just use an inline temp sensor.

macst34


----------



## war4peace

It really depends on build choices. For example, you can use a T-connector and a G1/4 sensor instead a 90-degree fitting and an inline sensor.
It's an option in the end, none of the above solutions is better than the other, they're just... different


----------



## cekim

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *war4peace*
> 
> It really depends on build choices. For example, you can use a T-connector and a G1/4 sensor instead a 90-degree fitting and an inline sensor.
> It's an option in the end, none of the above solutions is better than the other, they're just... different


I assumed that to be the case from their respective designs.

The CPU loop actually has a 4-way block coming off the hot-side of the cpu(s). The trouble is the bottom is a tight fit to the dimms...

I should have asked this question before, now I'm having to re-design on the fly, but live-learn...


----------



## war4peace

Looking at the picture, an inline sensor could be added to the topmost 90-degrees fitting coming off the CPUs, assuming the loop goes GPU-CPU-Radiator.


----------



## hadesfactor

I actually like running the temp sensors on the in and out of the rad but since my loops go rad to block....that way I know the temp of the water coming into the block which is more important then the temp leaving the block. If you know the temp leaving your rad going into your block then you can adjust your curve to cool the fluid more or less if needed. Just knowing the temp of the water leaving your block won't really give you any benefit as it still has to go through the cooling phase and that's what you need to pay attention too as well as your cpu/gpu temp and ambient and set your delta to ambient and water coming into your block (or out of your rad) or delta with cpu/gpu and ambient like most people do.

My rads have multi-ports so I just use the xtra with stop-plug sensors but if that's not your case then use some kind of pass-through sensor


----------



## GTXJackBauer

Putting it after or before the rad and reservoir is fine. No need to overthink it since the loop will reach an equilibrium state. In other words, the liquid temps will normalize say after 30 mins.


----------



## cekim

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *war4peace*
> 
> Looking at the picture, an inline sensor could be added to the topmost 90-degrees fitting coming off the CPUs, assuming the loop goes GPU-CPU-Radiator.


CPU/GPU are seperate loops.

I'm thinking I will put them around back as this is an open case, I'm trying to keep the wires close to each other so they can be wrangled into bundles that stay put.

I will need to take care of some other things before this - so for now, I'm going to peg my pumps at as high as I can stand noise-wise and set the fans to go off the not great readings from the CPU block with 25-29C being "low" and 30-36+ anything being "high".

That's roughly what I've been seeing while loading it up as the range. It's consistent and predictable if laggy from CPU load, but even all-core AVX (OCCT/Prime style) load runs ~61C spiking up to 65C for single samples. "Normal" heavy compute loads (the ones I run for days at a time) are much, much more tame and require < 1000RPM (50-60% duty cycle) on these fans to keep everything under 50-55C.


----------



## cekim

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hadesfactor*
> 
> My rads have multi-ports so I just use the xtra with stop-plug sensors but if that's not your case then use some kind of pass-through sensor


Thank you for the reminder - mine do as well... looking into plugs there as that is by far the least disruptive place to put them.

FWIW, I discovered something else about my setup testing VRM cooling - part of the issue is my AL/Cu tape and the 140mm fans I have rested on the top of the case blowing down are working alarmingly well at cooling my temperature probe.

I'm seeing a 7C+ delta with and without the fans on those sensors with the CPU at a fixed temp/load.

So, I'd have a much wider swing on those probes if I insulated them from VRM cooling air-flow, but... see above, it looks like the real solution is still probe the water instead.


----------



## hadesfactor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cekim*
> 
> Thank you for the reminder - mine do as well... looking into plugs there as that is by far the least disruptive place to put them.
> 
> FWIW, I discovered something else about my setup testing VRM cooling - part of the issue is my AL/Cu tape and the 140mm fans I have rested on the top of the case blowing down are working alarmingly well at cooling my temperature probe.
> 
> I'm seeing a 7C+ delta with and without the fans on those sensors with the CPU at a fixed temp/load.
> 
> So, I'd have a much wider swing on those probes if I insulated them from VRM cooling air-flow, but... see above, it looks like the real solution is still probe the water instead.


Honestly if you use that temp just for the VRM's there is no reason to insulate as that is tech your ambient for your VRMs. I would leave that and set that up as a VRM sensor and just have another couple for your reg ambient air. I use ambient as the air inside my case (as most) so I have a few at the front /top 1 at my front/bottom (case separated by lightbox) I use the ones on the top half as my ambient, just monitor the bottom as it house pumps, PSU's and cables. Then I have 2 temp sensors in both Rads and just monitor my IN......Im not saying this is the BEST way but after trial and error as well as reading the forums that how I have mine set up.

Only thing I could recommend is test your inline/plug temp sensors BEFORE your install them lol.....1 of mine after I installed and filled with water was registering the temp correctly but in negative so they mustve crossed something during manufacturing....so I had to drain my loop and cut all my cable ties and put in the new sensor....luckily I had to install anti-vortex inserts anyways but needless to say it was a big pita


----------



## cekim

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hadesfactor*
> 
> Honestly if you use that temp just for the VRM's there is no reason to insulate as that is tech your ambient for your VRMs. I would leave that and set that up as a VRM sensor and just have another couple for your reg ambient air. I use ambient as the air inside my case (as most) so I have a few at the front /top 1 at my front/bottom (case separated by lightbox) I use the ones on the top half as my ambient, just monitor the bottom as it house pumps, PSU's and cables. Then I have 2 temp sensors in both Rads and just monitor my IN......Im not saying this is the BEST way but after trial and error as well as reading the forums that how I have mine set up.
> 
> Only thing I could recommend is test your inline/plug temp sensors BEFORE your install them lol.....1 of mine after I installed and filled with water was registering the temp correctly but in negative so they mustve crossed something during manufacturing....so I had to drain my loop and cut all my cable ties and put in the new sensor....luckily I had to install anti-vortex inserts anyways but needless to say it was a big pita


Noted on testing... good idea.

As far as VRMs, this board doesn't seem to have (or at least software can't find) temp sensors on the VRMs. Only an alarm signal.

So, when I speak of "testing the VRMs" it was to see what if any cooling the VRMs needed in this config (because there is no longer case air-flow as they had before and the VRMs are working double duty with OC'd xeons - particularly AVX chews up an enormous amount of extra current as a result of the higher turbo multipliers) Those probes are not measuring the VRM, they are only on the CPU.

Once I install in-line water temp probes, I may move the cpu probes there now over to the VRMs though as a result of the above (there being no discoverable sensors on-board). So far what I am seeing with a laser temp sensors is the VRMs _could_ get by with nothing more than they have (heat-sink @ ~60C), but I'd feel better with a little air moving there and they drop quickly with just a small amount. Some quiet small fans will do the trick just to break up the stale air.

Interestingly enough, my GPU probes are tracking dead-on to the software/ASIC reported value with a pretty small delay (they are better positioned and insulated though, so that is not a huge surprise), but they are within 1-2C of the software value and track well through changes.


----------



## hadesfactor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cekim*
> 
> Noted on testing... good idea.
> 
> As far as VRMs, this board doesn't seem to have (or at least software can't find) temp sensors on the VRMs. Only an alarm signal.
> 
> So, when I speak of "testing the VRMs" it was to see what if any cooling the VRMs needed in this config (because there is no longer case air-flow as they had before and the VRMs are working double duty with OC'd xeons - particularly AVX chews up an enormous amount of extra current as a result of the higher turbo multipliers) Those probes are not measuring the VRM, they are only on the CPU.
> 
> Once I install in-line water temp probes, I may move the cpu probes there now over to the VRMs though as a result of the above (there being no discoverable sensors on-board). So far what I am seeing with a laser temp sensors is the VRMs _could_ get by with nothing more than they have (heat-sink @ ~60C), but I'd feel better with a little air moving there and they drop quickly with just a small amount. Some quiet small fans will do the trick just to break up the stale air.
> 
> Interestingly enough, my GPU probes are tracking dead-on to the software/ASIC reported value with a pretty small delay (they are better positioned and insulated though, so that is not a huge surprise), but they are within 1-2C of the software value and track well through changes.


What mobo are you using? I know not all mobos have sensors around the VRMs but they all should have CPU sensors. Also what software are you using to monitor


----------



## cekim

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hadesfactor*
> 
> What mobo are you using? I know not all mobos have sensors around the VRMs but they all should have CPU sensors. Also what software are you using to monitor


EP2C612-WS

It does have CPU and board temp sensors as usual, the reason I can't use those is there are 2 CPUs and only one fan/pump speed. So, I need some external controller that can either:
a. take the higher of the 2 CPU temps
OR
b. measure something else (i.e. water temps) and control the single fan/pump/rad that cools both CPUs based on that.

The board does not appear to have VRM temp sensors, only a temp/current alarm signal. Aida and HWINFO64 (in windows) and lmsensors in linux all fail to find/report VRM/MOSFET temp sensors in any way shape or form.

The real issue/problem causing me trouble here is 2CPUs and one rad/pump/fan speed for both that needs to account for the potential for one or the other to be hot while the other is cool and vice-versa. If I had 2 separate coolers (air or AIO), then I'd just just the usual built in controls. That's actually what I had previously:
2 - H80iv2

Worked fine in a 4U rack case with loads of case air-flow. In fact, I still have another 2x2696v3 system using exactly that (asus MB vs as ock).

But I've moved the GPUs into this system and replaced the H80s with a custom loop - so here I am.


----------



## hadesfactor

@cekim hmmm....what is the delta usually between the 2 CPU's are they that far apart? If they only vary a few C's then average out the temps add the average with AQ and make a virtual sensor then use that for your cooling curve. If they greatly vary depending on load then set 2 curves or just set your optimal curve on your worst case scenario and set and forget but then you have to deal with the fan noise. So you have to CPUs and 2 GPUs? How many Rads do have?


----------



## cekim

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hadesfactor*
> 
> @cekim hmmm....what is the delta usually between the 2 CPU's are they that far apart? If they only vary a few C's then average out the temps add the average with AQ and make a virtual sensor then use that for your cooling curve. If they greatly vary depending on load then set 2 curves or just set your optimal curve on your worst case scenario and set and forget but then you have to deal with the fan noise. So you have to CPUs and 2 GPUs? How many Rads do have?


delta varies wildly depending on specific applications.

Some will leave one idle, some will use half of both, some will use all. Any permutation is possible, so I need to "OR" together both temps and take the max. Using loop water temp will accomplish this I believe. Right now I'm using a virtual sensor combining two probes to do it. It's ok, but reacts a little slower than I'd like.

The GPUs (also 2) are less of a concern as you can more often take the top one as the hotter, but... as time goes on I'm finding more use for specific computes which has me wanting to do the same thing as I do with the CPUs ("OR" them together and take the higher temp to control the common pump/fans that cool them). The GPUs are also less of a concern because the temp probes are providing a more accurate and reactive measurement than the CPU probes. So the virtual sensor works well.

There are two completely separate loops:
2 rads (360 XE)
2 pumps (D5)
3 fans on each rad (pull only right now primarily for overall case dimensions).


----------



## hadesfactor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cekim*
> 
> delta varies wildly depending on specific applications.
> 
> Some will leave one idle, some will use half of both, some will use all. Any permutation is possible, so I need to "OR" together both temps and take the max. Using loop water temp will accomplish this I believe. Right now I'm using a virtual sensor combining two probes to do it. It's ok, but reacts a little slower than I'd like.
> 
> The GPUs (also 2) are less of a concern as you can more often take the top one as the hotter, but... as time goes on I'm finding more use for specific computes which has me wanting to do the same thing as I do with the CPUs ("OR" them together and take the higher temp to control the common pump/fans that cool them). The GPUs are also less of a concern because the temp probes are providing a more accurate and reactive measurement than the CPU probes. So the virtual sensor works well.
> 
> There are two completely separate loops:
> 2 rads (360 XE)
> 2 pumps (D5)
> 3 fans on each rad (pull only right now primarily for overall case dimensions).


Since you are running 2 loops, why don't you run them in a parallel setup and just set base the curve on the primary proc....proc 1 will always have a higher load unless you are setting certain processes to proc so even if the load is 50/50 you will still be getting the performance you desire. You have plenty of headroom to run them in parallel since you have dual loops. But that said, yeah I would run some inline/stop plug sensors....plus I like have as much control as I can over my temps


----------



## war4peace

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cekim*
> 
> EP2C612-WS
> 
> It does have CPU and board temp sensors as usual, the reason I can't use those is there are 2 CPUs and only one fan/pump speed. So, I need some external controller that can either:
> a. take the higher of the 2 CPU temps
> OR
> b. measure something else (i.e. water temps) and control the single fan/pump/rad that cools both CPUs based on that.
> 
> The board does not appear to have VRM temp sensors, only a temp/current alarm signal. Aida and HWINFO64 (in windows) and lmsensors in linux all fail to find/report VRM/MOSFET temp sensors in any way shape or form.
> 
> The real issue/problem causing me trouble here is 2CPUs and one rad/pump/fan speed for both that needs to account for the potential for one or the other to be hot while the other is cool and vice-versa. If I had 2 separate coolers (air or AIO), then I'd just just the usual built in controls. That's actually what I had previously:
> 2 - H80iv2
> 
> Worked fine in a 4U rack case with loads of case air-flow. In fact, I still have another 2x2696v3 system using exactly that (asus MB vs as ock).
> 
> But I've moved the GPUs into this system and replaced the H80s with a custom loop - so here I am.


You need the following (at a minimum):

- 1x liquid Temp Sensor (either inline or G1/4 plug, the preference is yours) per loop;
- 1x Aquaero 6 LT controller.

If your loop goes CPUs - Radiator, put the sensor anywhere between the CPUs and the radiator in the loop.
Do not measure CPU temperatures, they are irrelevant in a watercooled system, only liquid temperature matters for radiator fan speeds.
Using the Aquasuite software, set your radiator fan curve according to liquid temperature as measured by the liquid temp sensor.

Your CPU/GPU temperatures are affected by the following factors, in descending order of importance, given the same radiator size:
- Quantity of air flowing through the radiator (most impact)
- Ambient temperature (average impact)
- Liquid flow (least impact)


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *war4peace*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *cekim*
> 
> EP2C612-WS
> 
> It does have CPU and board temp sensors as usual, the reason I can't use those is there are 2 CPUs and only one fan/pump speed. So, I need some external controller that can either:
> a. take the higher of the 2 CPU temps
> OR
> b. measure something else (i.e. water temps) and control the single fan/pump/rad that cools both CPUs based on that.
> 
> The board does not appear to have VRM temp sensors, only a temp/current alarm signal. Aida and HWINFO64 (in windows) and lmsensors in linux all fail to find/report VRM/MOSFET temp sensors in any way shape or form.
> 
> The real issue/problem causing me trouble here is 2CPUs and one rad/pump/fan speed for both that needs to account for the potential for one or the other to be hot while the other is cool and vice-versa. If I had 2 separate coolers (air or AIO), then I'd just just the usual built in controls. That's actually what I had previously:
> 2 - H80iv2
> 
> Worked fine in a 4U rack case with loads of case air-flow. In fact, I still have another 2x2696v3 system using exactly that (asus MB vs as ock).
> 
> But I've moved the GPUs into this system and replaced the H80s with a custom loop - so here I am.
> 
> 
> 
> You need the following (at a minimum):
> 
> - 1x liquid Temp Sensor (either inline or G1/4 plug, the preference is yours) per loop;
> - 1x Aquaero 6 LT controller.
> 
> If your loop goes CPUs - Radiator, put the sensor anywhere between the CPUs and the radiator in the loop.
> Do not measure CPU temperatures, they are irrelevant in a watercooled system, only liquid temperature matters for radiator fan speeds.
> Using the Aquasuite software, set your radiator fan curve according to liquid temperature as measured by the liquid temp sensor.
> 
> Your CPU/GPU temperatures are affected by the following factors, in descending order of importance, given the same radiator size:
> *2)*- Quantity of air flowing through the radiator (most impact)
> *1)*- Ambient temperature (average impact)
> *( if at or above turbulent flow this does NOT matter..... in the least )* - Liquid flow (least impact)
Click to expand...

i will argue with you

placement of sensor in water does not matter. water temp equalizes. it is this point after equalization that it matters

water temp is not important to control fans. water to air delta is. your ambient changes , your temp delta shouldnt.

also i put the correct order of affected factors next to them in the quote above.

1- ambient air is and always will be in anything below l2n/LH or phase change. and tbh it affects phase change as well but only to a point, usually on the edge of capacity
2- air flow will matter but it does not matter if you are blowing 100c air across it....
3- as stated flow, assuming you already had turbulent flow has near no affect on temps


----------



## hadesfactor

Water in the loop does equalize to a point....there will be degree more or less difference at different points in the loop...a little hotter at the outlet of your block a little cooler at the out of your rad....and for all intensive purposed this margin doesnt really matter im just OCD when it comes to data even if its just .5C but for all intensive purposes only res feeding the pump matters....I personally like to put my temp at the out of my rad and delta to ambient air....that me personally...also equilibrium isn't automatic loop has to be running for a little the bigger the loop the longer the stabilization of temps which is another reason I place the sensor there.

Ambient will always have the greatest affect...thats why your temps will rise greatly if its a 100 in your house because the cooling cap just isnt there...its why in a datacenter we keep it at a certain temp....doesnt matter how many fans are in the server just the ambient


----------



## cekim

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hadesfactor*
> 
> Since you are running 2 loops, why don't you run them in a parallel setup and just set base the curve on the primary proc....proc 1 will always have a higher load unless you are setting certain processes to proc so even if the load is 50/50 you will still be getting the performance you desire. You have plenty of headroom to run them in parallel since you have dual loops. But that said, yeah I would run some inline/stop plug sensors....plus I like have as much control as I can over my temps


1 CPU loop
1 GPU loop

CPU and GPU computes are pretty orthogonal most of the time which is why I have two loops...

2 CPUs in a single loop.


----------



## hadesfactor

That's what I mean...run the cup blocks in parallel you have enough head room in your d5....i have 2 loops as well


----------



## cekim

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *war4peace*
> 
> You need the following (at a minimum):
> 
> - 1x liquid Temp Sensor (either inline or G1/4 plug, the preference is yours) per loop;
> - 1x Aquaero 6 LT controller.
> ...
> Your CPU/GPU temperatures are affected by the following factors, in descending order of importance, given the same radiator size:
> - Quantity of air flowing through the radiator (most impact)
> - Ambient temperature (average impact)
> - Liquid flow (least impact)


Indeed... To be honest the only reason to modulate the pumps is to drop them down to nearly off at very low loads and step-function them up under load not incrementally adjust. The fans adjust incrementally, the pumps are just "in use" or "not in use" on my various water cooling setups.

Already have the 6 XT running just with static values 90/60 pump/fan until I sort out probing the CPU loop. The GPU loop is good already with the sensors I have - I did some gaming runs last night and the afterburner and aquaero 6 XT numbers line up well. So, I'm going to setup a virtual sensor with those two (GPU0 and GPU1) and use the higher to run up the fans based on that in the GPU loop. As above with the CPU loop, I'm also planning on stepping down the pump to whatever its minimum is when the GPU loops gets below 30C just to make it silent when not loaded.


----------



## cekim

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hadesfactor*
> 
> That's what I mean...run the cup blocks in parallel you have enough head room in your d5....i have 2 loops as well


Not sure I understand what your suggested change would be? The CPU's are in a single loop in parallel (both get roughly 50% of the cold-side on their inlet from a T there and both feed into second common T on their hot-side.

Cold side comes from the rad, hot goes directly into the pump.

That means that loop must modulate fans based on the higher of the two CPU temps.


----------



## hadesfactor

Nvm that was my suggestion lol


----------



## vvv850

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> i will argue with you
> 
> placement of sensor in water does not matter. water temp equalizes. it is this point after equalization that it matters
> 
> water temp is not important to control fans. water to air delta is. your ambient changes , your temp delta shouldnt.


In 1gpm loops you can see a 1C temp difference between sensor placements (I have posted this a while back). If this is acceptable then place it wherever you like.

The thing that I want to address is your statement saying that water to air delta is important to control fans. I believe it's the water temp that should be used to control fans and I'm going to try and explain (i did so a couple of times already in this thread).

The "delta" is used to measure loop performance. Ambient raises so does the water proportionally and the delta stays the same. In a completed cooling loop, regardless of ambient temperatures, the "delta" on full load, has a minimum (fans at max) and a maximum (fans at min) (I'm keeping the pump out of this discussion because I believe that everything over 0.6GPM will affect loop performance by aprox 1C). The min and max "delta" will never change (unless you change the loop components or cooled components).

So, given the above, let's say:
- we have an average loop build with a maximum delta under load of 15C (fans at min) and minimum delta *under load* of 7C (fans at max).
- During winter, the room the PC is in, is at 20C ambient. That means you will have a max water temp of 35C with fans at min, which is acceptable, and a min water temp 27C with fans at max which is excessive over cooling.
- Summer comes and room ambient increases to 25C. That means that your max water temp reaches 40C (fans at min) which is excessive undercooling IMO and 32C with fans at max, which is again a bit of an over cooling situation.

Let's say you decide you want to control fans by delta. What happens during summer and winter with a desired delta of, let's say, 10C:
- during winter you will have too much unnecessary noise and too much cooling with a water temp of 30C
- during summer you will have water reaching 35C.
- You will have to change the required delta manually to compensate for ambient change and have efficient cooling

Now let's imagine you control your fans by using water temperature and set the desired value to 35C. The fans are controlled by a set point controller in AQ.
- during winter you have the water temp at 35C and the fans running at min
- during summer you maintain water at 35 and the fans will compensate to keep it at that automatically
- there will be no need to touch the controller regardless of ambient change

What are my conclusion that I wanted to share:

- first, what is important for a loop to be healthy and durable is water temperature (too high and loop components degrade faster: dyes, tubing, etc)
- water temperature also governs cooled components max and min temps. Of course water temp is influence by ambient temp but you have smart fan controllers to bring the water at a desired temp and so eliminate ambient fluctuations
- adding more cooling power or more heat generating components will be automatically taken into account by the set point controller by watching the water temp.
- what you ultimately get by using a set point controller with water temp as source is efficient cooling (no under or over cooling, no excessive fan noise when not needed).

Cheers


----------



## GTXJackBauer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vvv850*
> 
> In 1gpm loops you can see a 1C temp difference between sensor placements (I have posted this a while back). If this is acceptable then place it wherever you like.
> 
> The thing that I want to address is your statement saying that water to air delta is important to control fans. I believe it's the water temp that should be used to control fans and I'm going to try and explain (i did so a couple of times already in this thread).
> 
> The "delta" is used to measure loop performance. Ambient raises so does the water proportionally and the delta stays the same. In a completed cooling loop, regardless of ambient temperatures, the "delta" on full load, has a minimum (fans at max) and a maximum (fans at min) (I'm keeping the pump out of this discussion because I believe that everything over 0.6GPM will affect loop performance by aprox 1C). The min and max "delta" will never change (unless you change the loop components or cooled components).
> 
> So, given the above, let's say:
> - we have an average loop build with a maximum delta under load of 15C (fans at min) and minimum delta *under load* of 7C (fans at max).
> - During winter, the room the PC is in, is at 20C ambient. That means you will have a max water temp of 35C with fans at min, which is acceptable, and a min water temp 27C with fans at max which is excessive over cooling.
> - Summer comes and room ambient increases to 25C. That means that your max water temp reaches 40C (fans at min) which is excessive undercooling IMO and 32C with fans at max, which is again a bit of an over cooling situation.
> 
> Let's say you decide you want to control fans by delta. What happens during summer and winter with a desired delta of, let's say, 10C:
> - during winter you will have too much unnecessary noise and too much cooling with a water temp of 30C
> - during summer you will have water reaching 35C.
> - You will have to change the required delta manually to compensate for ambient change and have efficient cooling
> 
> Now let's imagine you control your fans by using water temperature and set the desired value to 35C. The fans are controlled by a set point controller in AQ.
> - during winter you have the water temp at 35C and the fans running at min
> - during summer you maintain water at 35 and the fans will compensate to keep it at that automatically
> - there will be no need to touch the controller regardless of ambient change
> 
> What are my conclusion that I wanted to share:
> 
> - first, what is important for a loop to be healthy and durable is water temperature (too high and loop components degrade faster: dyes, tubing, etc)
> - water temperature also governs cooled components max and min temps. Of course water temp is influence by ambient temp but you have smart fan controllers to bring the water at a desired temp and so eliminate ambient fluctuations
> - adding more cooling power or more heat generating components will be automatically taken into account by the set point controller by watching the water temp.
> - what you ultimately get by using a set point controller with water temp as source is efficient cooling (no under or over cooling, no excessive fan noise when not needed).
> 
> Cheers


Well said all around.







This is one of the main reasons why I use the water temp sensor as my source for fans and pumps.

As for flow, I'm stable at 1.0 GPM with a pretty sizable loop as I've seen not much of a change even if I bump the pumps to 1.5 GPM but by that point, the MCP35X2 pumps are screaming and sucking in air, hence why I stick with 1.0 GPM as its very tolerable and the pumps aren't overworking themselves.

I also got this info from a respected gentleman from the water cooling world that was around for a long time. Martinsliquidlab who's done many tests and of those tests showed that loops are efficient in the 1.0-1.5 GPM range as anything more than that is pretty much diminishing returns. As you already said, about a 1c temp different at the most you would see in that range as long as you're not too down under.


----------



## Spin Cykle

Edited for post above. My previous questions are not applicable! Sorry.....


----------



## Spin Cykle

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vvv850*
> 
> So, given the above, let's say:
> - we have an average loop build with a maximum delta under load of 15C (fans at min) and minimum delta *under load* of 7C (fans at max).
> - During winter, the room the PC is in, is at 20C ambient. That means you will have a max water temp of 35C with fans at min, which is acceptable, and a min water temp 27C with fans at max which is excessive over cooling.
> - Summer comes and room ambient increases to 25C. That means that your max water temp reaches 40C (fans at min) which is excessive undercooling IMO and 32C with fans at max, which is again a bit of an over cooling situation.


What process (CPU/GPU stress testing) are you using to determine your max delta under load? And are you selecting a arbitrary min fan RPM (300 - 450)? Obviously min load is easy enough, stress the CPU & GPU for a period of time until water temp stabilizes at max and subtract from ambient.


----------



## vvv850

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Spin Cykle*
> 
> What process (CPU/GPU stress testing) are you using to determine your max delta under load? And are you selecting a arbitrary min fan RPM (300 - 450)? Obviously min load is easy enough, stress the CPU & GPU for a period of time until water temp stabilizes at max and subtract from ambient.


That is just an example. I took some arbitrary values because every build differs with a lot of variables (type of fans, fan configuration, air flow, exhaust location and recirculation, etc).

I can try and use my build as an example but I don't think it would be of much help as it has much higher cooling capacity than heat generated.

Let me know if you need specifics and I will try to source them out.


----------



## Spin Cykle

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vvv850*
> 
> That is just an example. I took some arbitrary values because every build differs with a lot of variables (type of fans, fan configuration, air flow, exhaust location and recirculation, etc).
> 
> I can try and use my build as an example but I don't think it would be of much help as it has much higher cooling capacity than heat generated.
> 
> Let me know if you need specifics and I will try to source them out.


Okay, no worries. Thanks for the response. I'm rebuilding my loop tomorrow and adding a AQ6LT and a inline temp sensor. I have a single loop with a CPU/GPU block, single D5 pump and two radiators (360/480). I'm also using 8 fans total (Scythe Gentle Typhoon's AP-15) non-pwm, 7 radiator intake/1 Exhaust. The 8 fans are connected to 2 separate 3 pin x 5 modmytoys splitters and connected to the AQ6LT via 2 fan headers. I've also modified the MMT splitters to read only RPM from 1 port to prevent erratic RPM readings in aquasuite.

To establish a base max delta under load:

1. Determine max CPU Temp....TjMaxx (3770k) = 105 -25 (my comfort level) = 80Cmax
2. Set min fan RPM controlled via a preset value controller & power controlled fan (400rpm)
3. Load CPU via ADIA64 stress test
4. Load GPU via Heaven benchmark
5. Monitor CPU & GPU Temperatures... if they exceed 80C after 1 hour testing, than increase min fan rpm. If temperature is below 80C, than decrease min fan rpm.
6. Once 80Cmax is achieved for 1 hour, subtract water temperature reading (loop temp) from the ambient room temperature to achieve maximum delta under load.

To establish a minimum delta under load:

1. Set max fan RPM controlled via a preset value controller & power controlled fan (1850rpm) = 12v
2. Load CPU via ADIA64 stress test
3. Load GPU via Heaven benchmark
4. After 1 hour of stress testing, subtract water temperature reading (loop temp) from the ambient room temperature to achieve minimum delta under load.

In your example max load under delta = 15C and min load under delta = 7. Now you can create a set point controller in Aquasuite to control the fans using the max/min loads with regards to delta?

Set point controller theory? Am I right in this regard?

At DeltaT minimum reading (7c) set fan RPM to Max (1850 rpm/12v) and as DeltaT increases towards max, decrease the fan RPM/volt until max deltaT reading (15c) = 400RPM/3.x V

Thanks for all the help!!!


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vvv850*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> i will argue with you
> 
> placement of sensor in water does not matter. water temp equalizes. it is this point after equalization that it matters
> 
> water temp is not important to control fans. water to air delta is. your ambient changes , your temp delta shouldnt.
> 
> 
> 
> In 1gpm loops you can see a 1C temp difference between sensor placements (I have posted this a while back). If this is acceptable then place it wherever you like.
> 
> The thing that I want to address is your statement saying that water to air delta is important to control fans. I believe it's the water temp that should be used to control fans and I'm going to try and explain (i did so a couple of times already in this thread).
> 
> The "delta" is used to measure loop performance. Ambient raises so does the water proportionally and the delta stays the same. In a completed cooling loop, regardless of ambient temperatures, the "delta" on full load, has a minimum (fans at max) and a maximum (fans at min) (I'm keeping the pump out of this discussion because I believe that everything over 0.6GPM will affect loop performance by aprox 1C). The min and max "delta" will never change (unless you change the loop components or cooled components).
> 
> So, given the above, let's say:
> - we have an average loop build with a maximum delta under load of 15C (fans at min) and minimum delta *under load* of 7C (fans at max).
> - During winter, the room the PC is in, is at 20C ambient. That means you will have a max water temp of 35C with fans at min, which is acceptable, and a min water temp 27C with fans at max which is excessive over cooling.
> - Summer comes and room ambient increases to 25C. That means that your max water temp reaches 40C (fans at min) which is excessive undercooling IMO and 32C with fans at max, which is again a bit of an over cooling situation.
> 
> Let's say you decide you want to control fans by delta. What happens during summer and winter with a desired delta of, let's say, 10C:
> - during winter you will have too much unnecessary noise and too much cooling with a water temp of 30C
> - during summer you will have water reaching 35C.
> - You will have to change the required delta manually to compensate for ambient change and have efficient cooling
> 
> Now let's imagine you control your fans by using water temperature and set the desired value to 35C. The fans are controlled by a set point controller in AQ.
> - during winter you have the water temp at 35C and the fans running at min
> - during summer you maintain water at 35 and the fans will compensate to keep it at that automatically
> - there will be no need to touch the controller regardless of ambient change
> 
> What are my conclusion that I wanted to share:
> 
> - first, what is important for a loop to be healthy and durable is water temperature (too high and loop components degrade faster: dyes, tubing, etc)
> - water temperature also governs cooled components max and min temps. Of course water temp is influence by ambient temp but you have smart fan controllers to bring the water at a desired temp and so eliminate ambient fluctuations
> - adding more cooling power or more heat generating components will be automatically taken into account by the set point controller by watching the water temp.
> - what you ultimately get by using a set point controller with water temp as source is efficient cooling (no under or over cooling, no excessive fan noise when not needed).
> 
> Cheers
Click to expand...

Ok, well first I assume your in an area without ac. Fair enough.

Second what are you doing with a 10-15c ambient. Wow. I would freak out of I broke 5c

Either way, 40c water (15c delta on 25c ambient) won't hurt anything for day to day stuff your temps are well below air cooling at similar noise.

You don't have to change anything, if you set up your loop properly with Deltas.

That said, if you look that, your welcome to do it

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GTXJackBauer*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *vvv850*
> 
> In 1gpm loops you can see a 1C temp difference between sensor placements (I have posted this a while back). If this is acceptable then place it wherever you like.
> 
> The thing that I want to address is your statement saying that water to air delta is important to control fans. I believe it's the water temp that should be used to control fans and I'm going to try and explain (i did so a couple of times already in this thread).
> 
> The "delta" is used to measure loop performance. Ambient raises so does the water proportionally and the delta stays the same. In a completed cooling loop, regardless of ambient temperatures, the "delta" on full load, has a minimum (fans at max) and a maximum (fans at min) (I'm keeping the pump out of this discussion because I believe that everything over 0.6GPM will affect loop performance by aprox 1C). The min and max "delta" will never change (unless you change the loop components or cooled components).
> 
> So, given the above, let's say:
> - we have an average loop build with a maximum delta under load of 15C (fans at min) and minimum delta *under load* of 7C (fans at max).
> - During winter, the room the PC is in, is at 20C ambient. That means you will have a max water temp of 35C with fans at min, which is acceptable, and a min water temp 27C with fans at max which is excessive over cooling.
> - Summer comes and room ambient increases to 25C. That means that your max water temp reaches 40C (fans at min) which is excessive undercooling IMO and 32C with fans at max, which is again a bit of an over cooling situation.
> 
> Let's say you decide you want to control fans by delta. What happens during summer and winter with a desired delta of, let's say, 10C:
> - during winter you will have too much unnecessary noise and too much cooling with a water temp of 30C
> - during summer you will have water reaching 35C.
> - You will have to change the required delta manually to compensate for ambient change and have efficient cooling
> 
> Now let's imagine you control your fans by using water temperature and set the desired value to 35C. The fans are controlled by a set point controller in AQ.
> - during winter you have the water temp at 35C and the fans running at min
> - during summer you maintain water at 35 and the fans will compensate to keep it at that automatically
> - there will be no need to touch the controller regardless of ambient change
> 
> What are my conclusion that I wanted to share:
> 
> - first, what is important for a loop to be healthy and durable is water temperature (too high and loop components degrade faster: dyes, tubing, etc)
> - water temperature also governs cooled components max and min temps. Of course water temp is influence by ambient temp but you have smart fan controllers to bring the water at a desired temp and so eliminate ambient fluctuations
> - adding more cooling power or more heat generating components will be automatically taken into account by the set point controller by watching the water temp.
> - what you ultimately get by using a set point controller with water temp as source is efficient cooling (no under or over cooling, no excessive fan noise when not needed).
> 
> Cheers
> 
> 
> 
> Well said all around.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is one of the main reasons why I use the water temp sensor as my source for fans and pumps.
> 
> As for flow, I'm stable at 1.0 GPM with a pretty sizable loop as I've seen not much of a change even if I bump the pumps to 1.5 GPM but by that point, the MCP35X2 pumps are screaming and sucking in air, hence why I stick with 1.0 GPM as its very tolerable and the pumps aren't overworking themselves.
> 
> I also got this info from a respected gentleman from the water cooling world that was around for a long time. Martinsliquidlab who's done many tests and of those tests showed that loops are efficient in the 1.0-1.5 GPM range as anything more than that is pretty much diminishing returns. As you already said, about a 1c temp different at the most you would see in that range as long as you're not too down under.
Click to expand...

You can not "overwork" your pumps


----------



## Wam7

Hello folks, I could do with a little bit of advice/feedback on the best way to setup my Aquaero 6 pro with a Swiftech H220-X. (with 2 x Gentle Typhoon 2150rpn)

I have 6 fans on my Cosmos II

4 x Corsair 120 ML's
2 x Noctua 140

They are split equally for intake/exhaust.

Aquasuite is installed but how should I connect the 4 fan of the Aquaero 6? Should I connect the pump to Fan 1 and what can I use to split all the other fans?


----------



## Mega Man

You can set up more then 1 fan per header. Your will need a splitter the type depends on the type off fans you have pwm or Voltage


----------



## war4peace

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vvv850*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> In 1gpm loops you can see a 1C temp difference between sensor placements (I have posted this a while back). If this is acceptable then place it wherever you like.
> 
> The thing that I want to address is your statement saying that water to air delta is important to control fans. I believe it's the water temp that should be used to control fans and I'm going to try and explain (i did so a couple of times already in this thread).
> 
> The "delta" is used to measure loop performance. Ambient raises so does the water proportionally and the delta stays the same. In a completed cooling loop, regardless of ambient temperatures, the "delta" on full load, has a minimum (fans at max) and a maximum (fans at min) (I'm keeping the pump out of this discussion because I believe that everything over 0.6GPM will affect loop performance by aprox 1C). The min and max "delta" will never change (unless you change the loop components or cooled components).
> 
> So, given the above, let's say:
> - we have an average loop build with a maximum delta under load of 15C (fans at min) and minimum delta *under load* of 7C (fans at max).
> - During winter, the room the PC is in, is at 20C ambient. That means you will have a max water temp of 35C with fans at min, which is acceptable, and a min water temp 27C with fans at max which is excessive over cooling.
> - Summer comes and room ambient increases to 25C. That means that your max water temp reaches 40C (fans at min) which is excessive undercooling IMO and 32C with fans at max, which is again a bit of an over cooling situation.
> 
> Let's say you decide you want to control fans by delta. What happens during summer and winter with a desired delta of, let's say, 10C:
> - during winter you will have too much unnecessary noise and too much cooling with a water temp of 30C
> - during summer you will have water reaching 35C.
> - You will have to change the required delta manually to compensate for ambient change and have efficient cooling
> 
> Now let's imagine you control your fans by using water temperature and set the desired value to 35C. The fans are controlled by a set point controller in AQ.
> - during winter you have the water temp at 35C and the fans running at min
> - during summer you maintain water at 35 and the fans will compensate to keep it at that automatically
> - there will be no need to touch the controller regardless of ambient change
> 
> What are my conclusion that I wanted to share:
> 
> - first, what is important for a loop to be healthy and durable is water temperature (too high and loop components degrade faster: dyes, tubing, etc)
> - water temperature also governs cooled components max and min temps. Of course water temp is influence by ambient temp but you have smart fan controllers to bring the water at a desired temp and so eliminate ambient fluctuations
> - adding more cooling power or more heat generating components will be automatically taken into account by the set point controller by watching the water temp.
> - what you ultimately get by using a set point controller with water temp as source is efficient cooling (no under or over cooling, no excessive fan noise when not needed).
> 
> Cheers


That's exactly why I am using (and have recommended) water temperature alone as the target for fan speed variation.
My setup (1 GPU and 1 CPU in a single loop with 2x D5 and 2x EKWB XE360 controlled via AQ 6 LT) has the following settings:

- Pump speed static at 2000 RPM, that is until the missing cable for the flow sensor arrives. Afterwards I'll run some more test and change that static speed to the minimum required to achieve a sweet spot between 1 and 1.5 GPM.
- The intake fan is a Phanteks 200mm - its RPM is set as output together with the 3x Noctua NF-F12 located before the first radiator, based on water temperature exiting the CPU (I also have a temperature sensor right after the second radiator). Fan curves are set to aggressive (-30 in Aquasuite) until I replace my broken A/C on Tuesday, because ambient temperatures reach 30 degrees in the house.
- The second radiator has 2x Scythe Gentle Typhoon fans at 800 RPM, their speed is static at 100% because they make almost no noise.

Delta between ambient and water temperature is about 7 degrees Celsius on idle but can vary when the machine is under load, that's why I consider it unreliable when usinh it as input for fan curve.


----------



## GTXJackBauer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> You can not "overwork" your pumps


It's a figure of speech. I meant that there is no point in bumping the pumps to the point they are more audible and working more than they should for what you're trying to accomplish. Hope that clears up the confusion.


----------



## Wam7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> You can set up more then 1 fan per header. Your will need a splitter the type depends on the type off fans you have pwm or Voltage


Yes, I am using a 2-way splitter for both the Gentle Typhoons. I had an 8 port splitter that came with the H220-X that was unused but when I tried that all the fans just spun at full speed with no adjustment possible in Aquasuite. I presume this might because it is PWM splitter and all the fans are 3 pin voltage ones.

Can I just get several 2-way 3 pin splitters and just put them in series to control all the other fans?


----------



## vvv850

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Spin Cykle*
> 
> Okay, no worries. Thanks for the response. I'm rebuilding my loop tomorrow and adding a AQ6LT and a inline temp sensor. I have a single loop with a CPU/GPU block, single D5 pump and two radiators (360/480). I'm also using 8 fans total (Scythe Gentle Typhoon's AP-15) non-pwm, 7 radiator intake/1 Exhaust. The 8 fans are connected to 2 separate 3 pin x 5 modmytoys splitters and connected to the AQ6LT via 2 fan headers. I've also modified the MMT splitters to read only RPM from 1 port to prevent erratic RPM readings in aquasuite.
> 
> To establish a base max delta under load:
> 
> 1. Determine max CPU Temp....TjMaxx (3770k) = 105 -25 (my comfort level) = 80Cmax
> 2. Set min fan RPM controlled via a preset value controller & power controlled fan (400rpm)
> 3. Load CPU via ADIA64 stress test
> 4. Load GPU via Heaven benchmark
> 5. Monitor CPU & GPU Temperatures... if they exceed 80C after 1 hour testing, than increase min fan rpm. If temperature is below 80C, than decrease min fan rpm.
> 6. Once 80Cmax is achieved for 1 hour, subtract water temperature reading (loop temp) from the ambient room temperature to achieve maximum delta under load.
> 
> To establish a minimum delta under load:
> 
> 1. Set max fan RPM controlled via a preset value controller & power controlled fan (1850rpm) = 12v
> 2. Load CPU via ADIA64 stress test
> 3. Load GPU via Heaven benchmark
> 4. After 1 hour of stress testing, subtract water temperature reading (loop temp) from the ambient room temperature to achieve minimum delta under load.
> 
> In your example max load under delta = 15C and min load under delta = 7. Now you can create a set point controller in Aquasuite to control the fans using the max/min loads with regards to delta?
> 
> Set point controller theory? Am I right in this regard?
> 
> At DeltaT minimum reading (7c) set fan RPM to Max (1850 rpm/12v) and as DeltaT increases towards max, decrease the fan RPM/volt until max deltaT reading (15c) = 400RPM/3.x V
> 
> Thanks for all the help!!!


The deltas I used were arbitrary. For example my old loop reacted close to those values: max fan speed resulted in delta T of 7C and and lower (not min) fan speed resulted in max delta T of 13C. My new loop doesn't exceed 5.5C delta T at 800rpm fan speed.

What you said about establishing min max delta is correct, however, unless you test your system specifically you won't know how well the cooled components react. For example, my stock 6700K was awful until I delidded it.

Now, regarding the set point controller from AQ6. It is actually a sort of PID (proportional, integral, derivative) controller. You have a source input (a sensor, delta T, water temp, etc), a desired value for the input and, lastly, the output(s). In my specific case I set the water temp (a virtual sensor that is an average of 4 inline G1/4 temperature sensors mounted on the input and output of the radiators) as source input, the desired value of 33C (that is the temp I want to keep the water) and lastly all my fan channels as output.

Now every time the water temps reaches 33C, the controller automatically increases the outputs value (in this case the fan speed) to compensate. You can fine tune how quickly it should react using the P, I ,D, Hysteresis and reset values, or use the predefined controls. You can also define a minimum and maximum fan speed (as you've discovered) and also decide if you want to go passive cooling until the set point is reached (hold minimum power unchecked).
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> Ok, well first I assume your in an area without ac. Fair enough.
> 
> Second what are you doing with a 10-15c ambient. Wow. I would freak out of I broke 5c
> 
> Either way, 40c water (15c delta on 25c ambient) won't hurt anything for day to day stuff your temps are well below air cooling at similar noise.
> 
> You don't have to change anything, if you set up your loop properly with Deltas.


My system is in the attic and even though I have a 20K Btu A/C, during hot summers it's still hard to drop ambients under 27-28C. Without it, the ambient temps reach 31-32C.
During winter I keep the ambient at 21C.

My loop doesn't go over 5.5C deltaT with an 1080 TI full cover and a 6700K @ 1.4V with the fans at 800rpm (under furmark and small fft). But if my ambient temp goes to 30C, the controller keeps the delta T at 3C.

I see that I missed to mention (although I wanted to) that controlling the fans using a set point controller with water temps as source was an option and not the holly grail. It is a bit complicated to set up, but once done you can forget about messing with it.

*LE:* I cannot justify setting the water temps at a maximum of 33C. It was just a personal preference. I could very well set it at 40 and keep the fans at their lowest speed. But my gut tells me 33C is better than 40C although I drain the loop yearly so dye discoloration or other loop component deterioration won't show. Again extremely subjective on my side.


----------



## Dasandmancometh

Question for the group, took down my rig for a refresh and I'm wondering if I should have installed the Aquasuite s/w before hand and did some stuff before taking it completely down.

So questions are:

1. What does the A6 do on initial startup with no Aquasuite installed?

2. Will the D5 pumps with Aquabus connected to the A6 work?

3. Will fans plugged into the A6 work as well?


----------



## war4peace

From what I've read, heard and been told:
- At very first run ever, the AQ6 starts with everything maxed out, power 100% to all connected devices.
- After being set up and settings saved, they are saved inside the AQ6 so it retains those settings even without the software or USB connection.
- If you plug different fans into one header, the AQ6 can't tell the difference so it would apply same settings. For example if you replace 2000 RPM voltage-driven fans set up at 50% with 3000 RPM fans, the new fans will run at 50% too. I tested that when I replaced my Cooler Master MasterFans with Noctuas.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wam7*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> You can set up more then 1 fan per header. Your will need a splitter the type depends on the type off fans you have pwm or Voltage
> 
> 
> 
> Yes, I am using a 2-way splitter for both the Gentle Typhoons. I had an 8 port splitter that came with the H220-X that was unused but when I tried that all the fans just spun at full speed with no adjustment possible in Aquasuite. I presume this might because it is PWM splitter and all the fans are 3 pin voltage ones.
> 
> Can I just get several 2-way 3 pin splitters and just put them in series to control all the other fans?
Click to expand...

Yes, or you can buy multiple fan splitters pcb or wired
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dasandmancometh*
> 
> Question for the group, took down my rig for a refresh and I'm wondering if I should have installed the Aquasuite s/w before hand and did some stuff before taking it completely down.
> 
> So questions are:
> 
> 1. What does the A6 do on initial startup with no Aquasuite installed?
> 
> 2. Will the D5 pumps with Aquabus connected to the A6 work?
> 
> 3. Will fans plugged into the A6 work as well?


1
As mentioned above, if a new unit then fans will run at max.

If not then it will follow its programming. Remember aquasuite is just something to view it's programming. The cpu is on the aquaero
2
Yes
Assuming you buy the correct ones
3
See 1


----------



## smicha

Dear Aquacomputer,

I am on my knees - could you please be so kind and release Aquasuite for Linux? (I found Aquaeronix but I don't know how to run it). I just installed 11x 1080 TI on linux (windows cannot handle more than 7-9 GPUs) and cannot get access to aquasuite from Linux.


----------



## Dasandmancometh

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> Yes, or you can buy multiple fan splitters pcb or wired
> 1
> As mentioned above, if a new unit then fans will run at max.
> 
> If not then it will follow its programming. Remember aquasuite is just something to view it's programming. The cpu is on the aquaero
> 2
> Yes
> Assuming you buy the correct ones
> 3
> See 1


Copy,

Assuming I buy the correct ones? There's only one D5 with the aquabus that I've seen. Have I missed anything?

I'm assuming I can fill my loops with these D5's as one would with any D5's by cycling the power supply with a jumper? Would it be at 100% that way or? I read the instruction manual and did not see that mentioned in any part.


----------



## Mega Man

there is only 1, however that i dont know- what speed they run at, i would assume full speed as they are a vario with the knob replaced by a chip.

but i own 2, i have not fired them up yet trying to- but life keeps telling me to wait


----------



## Ashcroft

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dasandmancometh*
> 
> Copy,
> 
> Assuming I buy the correct ones? There's only one D5 with the aquabus that I've seen. Have I missed anything?
> 
> I'm assuming I can fill my loops with these D5's as one would with any D5's by cycling the power supply with a jumper? Would it be at 100% that way or? I read the instruction manual and did not see that mentioned in any part.


The D5 usb is set to 100% when it comes from the factory or if it has a firmware reset. Otherwise it runs at whatever speed it was last set to.

So yes, just giving it power will let you fill and bleed a loop.


----------



## Dasandmancometh

Thanks for the info. on this guys. I have one more issue for your all. I was just sitting down to put the passive heatsink on my 6 pro when I break out the instructions and they suck. So does anyone have anything that shows where to put the tape? I don't want to miss anything or put it somewhere where the heatsink wasn't made for it.

I have searched and there's nothing that I could find.


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dasandmancometh*
> 
> Thanks for the info. on this guys. I have one more issue for your all. I was just sitting down to put the passive heatsink on my 6 pro when I break out the instructions and they suck. So does anyone have anything that shows where to put the tape? I don't want to miss anything or put it somewhere where the heatsink wasn't made for it.
> 
> I have searched and there's nothing that I could find.


Best your going to get is this: http://aquacomputer.de/handbuecher.html?file=tl_files/aquacomputer/downloads/manuals/aquaero_6_Heatsink_english_20140106.pdf

or you trying search Google for some images. I believe I saw a few for where thermal pad should be placed with examples of pads being placed.


----------



## Dasandmancometh

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> Best your going to get is this: http://aquacomputer.de/handbuecher.html?file=tl_files/aquacomputer/downloads/manuals/aquaero_6_Heatsink_english_20140106.pdf
> 
> or you trying search Google for some images. I believe I saw a few for where thermal pad should be placed with examples of pads being placed.


Already had the instructions, not any help for the 6 pro. I have googled and only found one image, which is from someones build thread and I don't know if I can trust that.

On another note. Another questions came up.

I have two Koolance flow meters that I've found out how to make work with the Aguaero without the Koolance adapters. However the 6 only has inputs for one. Can a fan connection be used as a secondary flow meter input? If not, is there a way?


----------



## Jubijub

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dasandmancometh*
> 
> Thanks for the info. on this guys. I have one more issue for your all. I was just sitting down to put the passive heatsink on my 6 pro when I break out the instructions and they suck. So does anyone have anything that shows where to put the tape? I don't want to miss anything or put it somewhere where the heatsink wasn't made for it.
> 
> I have searched and there's nothing that I could find.


while I generally agree AQ docs suck (the one for the Aqualis XT is apalling, there is not a single illustration), the one for the Aquaero is clearly one of the best. And putting the passive heatsink is really easy, there is a picture showing you where to put the pads (the red squares). Remove the 4 big screws, and replace them with the supplied 4 longer screwes.

Don't forget to peel the thermal compound on both side.


----------



## GTXJackBauer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dasandmancometh*
> 
> Thanks for the info. on this guys. I have one more issue for your all. I was just sitting down to put the passive heatsink on my 6 pro when I break out the instructions and they suck. So does anyone have anything that shows where to put the tape? I don't want to miss anything or put it somewhere where the heatsink wasn't made for it.
> 
> I have searched and there's nothing that I could find.


The directions to do this is easily explained while I'm sure it could use some improvements.



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dasandmancometh*
> 
> Can a fan connection be used as a secondary flow meter input? If not, is there a way?


Channel 1 can be configured as a flow meter iirc but not 100%. I would check their manual on that.


----------



## Dasandmancometh

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jubijub*
> 
> while I generally agree AQ docs suck (the one for the Aqualis XT is apalling, there is not a single illustration), the one for the Aquaero is clearly one of the best. And putting the passive heatsink is really easy, there is a picture showing you where to put the pads (the red squares). Remove the 4 big screws, and replace them with the supplied 4 longer screwes.
> 
> Don't forget to peel the thermal compound on both side.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GTXJackBauer*
> 
> The directions to do this is easily explained while I'm sure it could use some improvements.
> 
> 
> Channel 1 can be configured as a flow meter iirc but not 100%. I would check their manual on that.


I'm an idiot!

I don't know what I was thinking, but I just totally disregarded that picture in the instructions because it didn't look like the back of the 6 pro. It just now dawned on me and I feel stupid AF.

Thanks all.


----------



## Jubijub

Dont worry, it happens


----------



## iamjanco

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dasandmancometh*
> 
> I don't know what I was thinking, but I just totally disregarded that picture in the instructions because it didn't look like the back of the 6 pro. It just now dawned on me and I feel stupid AF.


Not sure if this was already mentioned, but when putting everything back together again, watch out you don't crush the pink/reddish component on the left in the image above. It sticks up pretty high, and you can bend it slightly to avoid that problem while screwing everything down.


----------



## Dasandmancometh

Yeah I got it all put together, designed and printed out some brackets to mount it in my top bay so all is good.

Fan header number 1 can be used as a flow meter input, so thanks for that tid bit.


----------



## viperguy212

Hey all,

I have a pretty silly question... mounting... anyone mount their aquaero (in my case the 6 LT USB version) using double sided tape?

I'm planning to add the system to my Phanteks Evolv ATX and wanted to do so in a way that was hidden and wont require modification to the case. I'm thinking the only issue with the double sided tape may be the heat dissipation.

Thanks!


----------



## cekim

Don't have the risers I need to do a delta probe, but as before, I have good control over ambient, so for now, we'll just take "hot" side. Using a target controller on the CPUs' and GPUs' radiator respectively.

The GPUs are idle, but the target mode has ramped the fans so low that its settled at roughly the idle IC temp of the GPUs.

Running cosmo on 72 threads - looking and sounding good:


----------



## hadesfactor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *viperguy212*
> 
> Hey all,
> 
> I have a pretty silly question... mounting... anyone mount their aquaero (in my case the 6 LT USB version) using double sided tape?
> 
> I'm planning to add the system to my Phanteks Evolv ATX and wanted to do so in a way that was hidden and wont require modification to the case. I'm thinking the only issue with the double sided tape may be the heat dissipation.
> 
> Thanks!


3M makes a double sided mounting tape that's thick and holds pretty well not to mention it insulates and exposed contacts or leads. I dont use it for my AQ^ since I have the Pro but I do use it for other boards


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *viperguy212*
> 
> Hey all,
> 
> I have a pretty silly question... mounting... anyone mount their aquaero (in my case the 6 LT USB version) using double sided tape?
> 
> I'm planning to add the system to my Phanteks Evolv ATX and wanted to do so in a way that was hidden and wont require modification to the case. I'm thinking the only issue with the double sided tape may be the heat dissipation.
> 
> Thanks!


Bigger concern over time would be shorting out.


----------



## hadesfactor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> Bigger concern over time would be shorting out.


This is what I use....It insulates so shorting out isn't an issue....I've used it to mounts multiple circuit boards. I also put a double layer on depending on how much the solder joints protrude

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007Y7DV4E/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1


----------



## Phaedrus89

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> Bigger concern over time would be shorting out.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hadesfactor*
> 
> This is what I use....It insulates so shorting out isn't an issue....I've used it to mounts multiple circuit boards. I also put a double layer on depending on how much the solder joints protrude
> 
> https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007Y7DV4E/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1


Has anyone tried Kapton tape for this application? I don't know that the adhesion strength would be appropriate. I looks like that 3M stuff you linked should be fine. Just doesn't explicitly say thats its ESD safe.


----------



## hadesfactor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phaedrus89*
> 
> Has anyone tried Kapton tape for this application? I don't know that the adhesion strength would be appropriate. I looks like that 3M stuff you linked should be fine. Just doesn't explicitly say thats its ESD safe.


No It doesn't but its made of more a rubber type material....trust me I wouldve blown my AQ6, my Ext Fan board for my Asus and other boards as well. I like this stuff because it has pretty good adhesion


----------



## Phaedrus89

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hadesfactor*
> 
> No It doesn't but its made of more a rubber type material....trust me I wouldve blown my AQ6, my Ext Fan board for my Asus and other boards as well. I like this stuff because it has pretty good adhesion


Might pick up a roll of this stuff then as I'm order my aquaero soon. Thanks for the suggestion.


----------



## viperguy212

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hadesfactor*
> 
> No It doesn't but its made of more a rubber type material....trust me I wouldve blown my AQ6, my Ext Fan board for my Asus and other boards as well. I like this stuff because it has pretty good adhesion


Just picked up a roll. Thanks for the suggestion!


----------



## hadesfactor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *viperguy212*
> 
> Just picked up a roll. Thanks for the suggestion!


Anytime!....Like I mentioned....I would double up on the tape....for a pass-through board I made the back of the breadboards solder points were poking through but 2 layers ended up being perfect....just use your discretion on how much you need but it sticks great....I use my pass-through for all my temp sensors, RPM sensors and USB so I dont need to try to reach under my rad in the 5.25 drive bay to swap things around...it holds up with all the connections


----------



## TheAbyss

Good morning

I have read through the best part of the thread (starting somewhere beginning of 2016 and still would like to ask for some advice. I am building my first custom water cooled rig atm, based on a nonPWM D5 Pump and an AE5LT. My plan was to set the D5 to max and handle it via a PowerAdjust 3 Ultra connected to the AE5. I know that pump speed is not subject to big changes once a certain Minimum flow is achieved (60l/h), but my casemod requires me to put the pump where I can hardly change the Speed once water is in the Loop. Luckily, I managed to get an AE6Pro a couple of days ago, which now leads me to two Scenarios:

1. Set the D5 to a power Level (1-5?) and hope that it is ok flow and noise-wise, power it from the PSU and get the Tacho Signal to the AE6
2. Connect the D5 to the AE6 fully (not a good Idea from a power surge Point of view I think...)

Choosing 1, do you have any experience what a good compromise for a D5 Setting would be (Loop: Res->Pump->GPU (980TI SC)-> CPU (I7 6700k)->420 Rad-> 240 Rad->Res).

Sorry for capital letters, I am German and the auto-correction drives me crazy....


----------



## zeroibis

I am a bit confused by the ability to mount the Aquaero 6 LT to a flat surface with only tape. The bottom of this thing has a bunch of pins on one side that would prevent this. What are people doing with regard to these pins!?


----------



## Kimir

Screw a plate on the mount, then tape the plate.


----------



## hadesfactor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zeroibis*
> 
> I am a bit confused by the ability to mount the Aquaero 6 LT to a flat surface with only tape. The bottom of this thing has a bunch of pins on one side that would prevent this. What are people doing with regard to these pins!?
> 
> You can either screw on a non-conductive plate or they way I do it to keep it as flat as possible is what I posted above. I use 2 or 3 layers of the tape I mentioned which tends to be thick enough to prevent the pins from protruding


----------



## zeroibis

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kimir*
> 
> Screw a plate on the mount, then tape the plate.


Do you happen to know where people are getting plates to use or is everyone just cutting them to size?


----------



## hadesfactor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zeroibis*
> 
> Do you happen to know where people are getting plates to use or is everyone just cutting them to size?


I have an AQ6 Pro so this is just a suggestion. You can cut your own...go to home depot or equivalent big box hardware store and ask the for a scrap piece of plexi...home depot and lowes in the states will give it for free the just cut it with a dremel and plastic cutting wheel or fine tooth hacksaw then drill your holes for mounting....thing i can make mod myself for cheaper the i can purchase i tend to do...part of the fun imo...made my own pump mounts amd res mounts etc...takes longer but the reward is greater


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> I'm wondering if anyone can help. I have two aquaero 6 XT (Blue).
> 
> The first one is perfect. The second has been causing me issues from day one.
> 
> I recently decided to add a black faceplate to them. The first one I had zero problems install the faceplate with standoffs & mounting device.
> 
> However the second one is where all the problems are.
> 
> The screws do not reach the standoffs with faceplate & mounting devices installed. Second position of the screw holes do not line up with the standoffs. Only way to install them is at an angle. Which is not an option.
> 
> I was wondering if anyone knows how to install these parts correctly on my second aquaero 6 XT (Blue)? It starting to look like the second AQ6 alignment is off causing all these problems.


Here are Some Photos of my issue:

May be a bit hard to see but the facePlate is not aligned correctly a bit of the silver is showing (Which does not happen with my other AQ6.


----------



## BoredErica

Sorry if this is covered before. I'm building a custom loop so my desktop is down. This netbook is next level laggy so it is very hard to browse the web.

I have a later gen EK Revo Dual D5. PWM header only has 2 wires but is 4 pin pwm header. So it does not fit the pwm signal 2 pin spots on lower left hand side. 4 pwm fan headers are planned for fans. Any ideas? Thanks


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Darkwizzie*
> 
> Sorry if this is covered before. I'm building a custom loop so my desktop is down. This netbook is next level laggy so it is very hard to browse the web.
> 
> I have a later gen EK Revo Dual D5. PWM header only has 2 wires but is 4 pin pwm header. So it does not fit the pwm signal 2 pin spots on lower left hand side. 4 pwm fan headers are planned for fans. Any ideas? Thanks


The PWM headers on the Aquaero are for LED's . . .

They are a PWM 12V output that can source up to an amp or so . .

You can damage your pump if you try to control it from the PWM output header.

You'll need to use a fan header, or run the pump from the mobo.


----------



## war4peace

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Darkwizzie*
> 
> Sorry if this is covered before. I'm building a custom loop so my desktop is down. This netbook is next level laggy so it is very hard to browse the web.
> 
> I have a later gen EK Revo Dual D5. PWM header only has 2 wires but is 4 pin pwm header. So it does not fit the pwm signal 2 pin spots on lower left hand side. 4 pwm fan headers are planned for fans. Any ideas? Thanks


Do NOT use the 12V PWM headers, their naming is uninspired IMO and confusing. I was confused by them as well.
Use any of the regular fan headers (if you have an AQ6) or the specific PWM header for AQ5, I think it's the FAN4 header.

On my AQ6 I use FAN1 for pumps (I have two of them in series).


----------



## Kimir

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zeroibis*
> 
> Do you happen to know where people are getting plates to use or is everyone just cutting them to size?


No idea, when I get the 6LT for my next build I'm probably gonna take a piece of aluminum at work and work with that.


----------



## Revan654

Quick Question: With the Splitty 9. Could I use a Y Cable to connect two Splitty 9 together and connect it to the AQ6XT?


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> Quick Question: With the Splitty 9. Could I use a Y Cable to connect two Splitty 9 together and connect it to the AQ6XT?


Yes, . . . . with the caveat that you only have something plugged into the tach header of just one of them.


----------



## fast_fate

Finally sorted out a couple of controller curves that work in my set-up








Battling an ambient temp sensor which is being effected by radiant heat, so my initial controller curves were rather ineffective










Spoiler: Controller Curves







Full Load > Ramp Down > Ramp Up Again with Full Load.


----------



## macst34

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> Quick Question: With the Splitty 9. Could I use a Y Cable to connect two Splitty 9 together and connect it to the AQ6XT?


So...you plan on powering 18 fans from 1 header? I really want to hear your use case.
Are you planning on making your pc lift off like a hovercraft?

Kidding aside, you want to stay under 2.5 amps per fan channel for AQ6. Choose your fans accordingly.

macst34


----------



## BoredErica

With so many fans on one header I am worried about increased minimum fan RPM running with PWM.

That's how it works right? Or was it just courser grain control of low RPMs?


----------



## TheAbyss

Hi,

I have recently upgraded to a watercooled rig and I have a question regarding the two 2-pin PWM sockets on the AE6 (pro). I have two Ultra bright White LEDs fitted for 12V on a self-made board which has a 4-Pin Molex (12v) and a Switch to turn them on or off. those two LEDs are inserted in a Heatkiller GTX980TI Waterblock. I was wondering if I could also poer those two LEDs with the two PWM port on the AE6?


----------



## war4peace

Today I finally received the Aquacomputer High Flow Sensor cable and I mounted it into my PC, linked the flow sensor to my Aquaero 6 LT.

After starting the PC and going to Aquasuite, looking at the flow it showed 1.8 liters per minute at pump speed of 1880 RPM. That's 0.475 gpm - it seems awfully low. So I went ahead and cranked the pumps to the maximum, at 100% the flow shown is 5.1 liters per minute, that's 1.34 gpm at a speed of 4800 RPM for pumps. Right now the pumps are running at 95% PWM, 3950 RPM and flow speed is 4.04 liters per minute, that's cca 1.06 gpm.

This seems really, really low, considering I have 2x EK D5 Revo pumps in series, mounted in the EK-XTOP Revo Dual D5 Serial volute.

Given the above data, it looks like my setup can push a maximum of 300 liters (or 80 gallons) per hour, which is *5 times less* than the maximum rate of 1500 L/h that the pump specification mentions.
Obviously I did not expect a flow that high, since my setup includes two reservoirs, the flow sensor, a GPU and CPU waterblock as well as 2x EK XE 360 radiators, but I didn't expect a flow that low either.

I know the recommended flow speed to be of at least 1 gpm, and somewhere between 1 and 1.5 gpm being the norm, but with 2 pumps at maximum speed I can't even reach 1.5 gpm!
Any ideas what could cause this? I'm considering getting an USB flow sensor but first I'd like to make sure it's worth investigating.


----------



## Shoggy

The flow rating of pumps is usually measured (or only calculated?) without any resistance. It is like you would throw it into a bucket of water with nothing connected to it. This value is pretty useless because in the real would you will have something connected to it of course.

I see absolutely no reason to worry about any of your values. 1800 rpm is at the very low end of the pumps speed setting and a bit more than 100 l/h seems quite realistic to me. I would tell any customer that this will be already more than enough. Seriously, you will see no noteworthy performance increase with much higher flow rates if we consider a difference of 1-2°C as something that does not matter.

The 300 l/h measurement at max speed looks also fine to me. A single pump usually does not go beyond about 170 l/h in a simple loop and should be about 50 l/h with the lowest setting. So, do not get confused by those fancy and insane flow rate specifications. There is no reason to worry. Everything is OK with your setup - especially when we keep in mind that a super high flow rate will not really help with the performance.


----------



## war4peace

Thank you!
I am still a beginner in these things, I admit my question was more academic because I have absolutely no issues with cooling. Just ran a test using Unigine Superposition and the GPU (EVGA GTX 1080 FTW) started at exactly 30 degrees Celsius and ended at exactly 40 degrees Celsius, and now I am able to measure power dissipation as well, since I have a temperature IN and temperature OUT sensor, the maximum power dissipation was 200W with fans at 900 RPM.

I'll bring my pumps back to around 2000 RPM, that setting worked very well even in relatively bad conditions (28 degrees Celsius ambient).

On the same note, I would like to praise your very fast response, both here personally and as a company, I ordered an AQ5 LT, a Farbwerk, a LED strip and an assortment of cables last week and they arrived today. Keep up the good work and just so you know my next project will be Aquacomputer only


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheAbyss*
> 
> Hi,
> 
> I have recently upgraded to a watercooled rig and I have a question regarding the two 2-pin PWM sockets on the AE6 (pro). I have two Ultra bright White LEDs fitted for 12V on a self-made board which has a 4-Pin Molex (12v) and a Switch to turn them on or off. those two LEDs are inserted in a Heatkiller GTX980TI Waterblock. I was wondering if I could also poer those two LEDs with the two PWM port on the AE6?


yes, easily ! ( assuming the leds are pwm compatible, most are )
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *war4peace*
> 
> Today I finally received the Aquacomputer High Flow Sensor cable and I mounted it into my PC, linked the flow sensor to my Aquaero 6 LT.
> 
> After starting the PC and going to Aquasuite, looking at the flow it showed 1.8 liters per minute at pump speed of 1880 RPM. That's 0.475 gpm - it seems awfully low. So I went ahead and cranked the pumps to the maximum, at 100% the flow shown is 5.1 liters per minute, that's 1.34 gpm at a speed of 4800 RPM for pumps. Right now the pumps are running at 95% PWM, 3950 RPM and flow speed is 4.04 liters per minute, that's cca 1.06 gpm.
> 
> This seems really, really low, considering I have 2x EK D5 Revo pumps in series, mounted in the EK-XTOP Revo Dual D5 Serial volute.
> 
> Given the above data, it looks like my setup can push a maximum of 300 liters (or 80 gallons) per hour, which is *5 times less* than the maximum rate of 1500 L/h that the pump specification mentions.
> Obviously I did not expect a flow that high, since my setup includes two reservoirs, the flow sensor, a GPU and CPU waterblock as well as 2x EK XE 360 radiators, but I didn't expect a flow that low either.
> 
> I know the recommended flow speed to be of at least 1 gpm, and somewhere between 1 and 1.5 gpm being the norm, but with 2 pumps at maximum speed I can't even reach 1.5 gpm!
> Any ideas what could cause this? I'm considering getting an USB flow sensor but first I'd like to make sure it's worth investigating.


just for more information, fans and pumps are very similar.

before all the haters and naysayers come out of the wood work, the key word is similar. and i will show you an easy way to understand it, or one i think is one

for a pump you need a pump curve ( feel free to google it )

you can read this. more or less ~ this is basics and an analogy so 100% accurate this is not! ~ the more restriction, the less flow.

https://martinsliquidlab.wordpress.com/2013/02/18/why-static-pressure-max-flow-specs-are-poor-measures-of-fan-performance/
https://martinsliquidlab.wordpress.com/pump-planning-guide/comment-page-1/

direct from taco- a pump manufacture.





and iirc xylem makes the d5 pump curve ( you need to know and understand. the factory curve is only valid with the factory speced tops !~ i know swiftech does factory specs, i do not know nay other manufacture that 100% does, they should be close however ! )
hope this helps

dont have the time to watch all this, but this seems correct from what i have been able to glance over


----------



## TheAbyss

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> yes, easily ! ( assuming the leds are pwm compatible, most are )


Thanks! will give it a try at the Weekend.. I am struggling with all the cables already, so it would be a good Thing to get rid of the board, Switch and extra molex connector.. even though it´s a phanteks case that already has some good cable Management, I completely underestimated the additional wiring required in a watercooled rig... DRIVES ME INSANE!


----------



## Ashcroft

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheAbyss*
> 
> Hi,
> 
> I have recently upgraded to a watercooled rig and I have a question regarding the two 2-pin PWM sockets on the AE6 (pro). I have two Ultra bright White LEDs fitted for 12V on a self-made board which has a 4-Pin Molex (12v) and a Switch to turn them on or off. those two LEDs are inserted in a Heatkiller GTX980TI Waterblock. I was wondering if I could also poer those two LEDs with the two PWM port on the AE6?


If the LEDs themselves are 12V versions it will work fine.
You just need to check that the board is not taking the molex input and dropping the voltage for the LEDs or using the 5V line for them.

Some LEDs don't give you much brightness control on the Aquaero pwm headers and just switch off at lower levels but others like the darkside brand dimmable strips give a great range of brightness.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *war4peace*
> 
> Today I finally received the Aquacomputer High Flow Sensor cable and I mounted it into my PC, linked the flow sensor to my Aquaero 6 LT.
> 
> After starting the PC and going to Aquasuite, looking at the flow it showed 1.8 liters per minute at pump speed of 1880 RPM. That's 0.475 gpm - it seems awfully low. So I went ahead and cranked the pumps to the maximum, at 100% the flow shown is 5.1 liters per minute, that's 1.34 gpm at a speed of 4800 RPM for pumps. Right now the pumps are running at 95% PWM, 3950 RPM and flow speed is 4.04 liters per minute, that's cca 1.06 gpm.
> 
> This seems really, really low, considering I have 2x EK D5 Revo pumps in series, mounted in the EK-XTOP Revo Dual D5 Serial volute.
> 
> Given the above data, it looks like my setup can push a maximum of 300 liters (or 80 gallons) per hour, which is *5 times less* than the maximum rate of 1500 L/h that the pump specification mentions.
> Obviously I did not expect a flow that high, since my setup includes two reservoirs, the flow sensor, a GPU and CPU waterblock as well as 2x EK XE 360 radiators, but I didn't expect a flow that low either.
> 
> I know the recommended flow speed to be of at least 1 gpm, and somewhere between 1 and 1.5 gpm being the norm, but with 2 pumps at maximum speed I can't even reach 1.5 gpm!
> Any ideas what could cause this? I'm considering getting an USB flow sensor but first I'd like to make sure it's worth investigating.


Those flow rates are perfectly normal.
I get a Max of 4.5lpm from a single pump on a simple 3 block loop.

As Shoggy has talked about above restriction greatly affects the flow the pump can produce. The Max flow figure of 1200lph is at zero restriction which is not a realistic practical figure. To get that would require a situation where positive flow was provided to the pump and the 1200lph would be the point at which the d5 stopped contributing any pressure to the flow. Even the slightest restriction like a level hose with nothing in the end will significantly lower the real flow rate. A single high flow water block will lower flow to around 450lph. Doubling restriction drops flow by around 50%.

The 1gpm recommend figure is based on testing that showed that around that rate was where the core to coolant delta reductions provided by flow through a block leveled off, and where loop air bleeding was most effective. It does not take into account other factors that affect entire loop performance and coolant temp like the power needed to produce that flow rate.
Much lower flow rates are still very effective and only affect the core to coolant delta performance of blocks slightly, while potentially being balanced out by other factors at the same time.
It's still a good target to keep in mind but there is no need to be obsessive about it.


----------



## TheAbyss

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ashcroft*
> 
> If the LEDs themselves are 12V versions it will work fine.
> You just need to check that the board is not taking the molex input and dropping the voltage for the LEDs or using the 5V line for them.
> 
> Some LEDs don't give you much brightness control on the Aquaero pwm headers and just switch off at lower levels but others like the darkside brand dimmable strips give a great range of brightness.


I soldered the LEDs with resistors so that they can run on 12V, self-made board with 12V DC Output, works fine but If the AE6 is capable of running those directly, I´d like to reduce redundancy here. Thanks for the reply.


----------



## vvv850

If we are on the PWM outputs subject. Was wondering if I can power a CCFL supply from it. My intention is only to have the possibility of turning the lights on or off from aquasuite. An image for reference:


----------



## cekim

Don't know what the requirements of your CCFL are, but this might be interesting to you:

http://www.overclock.net/t/1423333/aquacomputer-aquaero-6/1900#post_21946385

I may need to try this with the D5 pumps. I would not mind freeing up a fan header. I could just move the pumps to the MB, but I'm trying to keep everything in one place and self-contained within the aquaero on-board settings as I run both windows and linux.


----------



## vvv850

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cekim*
> 
> If you just want on or off, there is a relay there - add a FET and turn on your 1.21GigaWatt time machine if you like...


Thanks, but I'm already using it for power on, power off and emergency power off.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vvv850*
> 
> If we are on the PWM outputs subject. Was wondering if I can power a CCFL supply from it. My intention is only to have the possibility of turning the lights on or off from aquasuite. An image for reference:


There is an easy way. offs are the lights are more then 1a ( max output of the pwm headers )

You can use a relay and either a 2 point set point (1 for 0% other for 100%) or a simple setting and just change it when you want it off / on.

If you need help with wiring let me know.

An auto parts store should have a fairly cheap relay (5-15 $)


----------



## vvv850

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> There is an easy way. offs are the lights are more then 1a ( max output of the pwm headers )
> 
> You can use a relay and either a 2 point set point (1 for 0% other for 100%) or a simple setting and just change it when you want it off / on.
> 
> If you need help with wiring let me know.
> 
> An auto parts store should have a fairly cheap relay (5-15 $)


Of course. Any help would be appreciated.

Just a side note, it seems that the ccfl system (2 x tubes + inverter) pull only 3w (I don't know if it's per tube or both). Even so it's under the rated 1A.

I was wondering if the modulation would interfere with a relay or the inverter.


----------



## Mega Man

Just keep it to 0% or 100%. Either off or on. 0 % means no power 100% means 12v 100% of the time ( no pwm. )


----------



## GTXJackBauer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ashcroft*
> 
> The 1gpm recommend figure is based on testing that showed that around that rate was where the core to coolant delta reductions provided by flow through a block leveled off, and where loop air bleeding was most effective. It does not take into account other factors that affect entire loop performance and coolant temp like the power needed to produce that flow rate.
> Much lower flow rates are still very effective and only affect the core to coolant delta performance of blocks slightly, while potentially being balanced out by other factors at the same time.
> It's still a good target to keep in mind but there is no need to be obsessive about it.


Not sure where you're that info of much lower flow rates being acceptable. I personally wouldn't cloud the professional testing done by someone (Martinsliquidlab) and try reengineer his findings of what an efficient running loop flow should be. If you can provide some data on those claims, I'm all for it otherwise, I wouldn't change the 1.0-1.5 GPM window.


----------



## Shoggy

I would not connect CCFLs to the aquaero or anything else in the PC. These litter f*ckers are ticking time bombs. Their inverters are usually cheaply made without any interference elimination. Since they work with a very high voltage they can emit unhealthy bursts. In the days were they were more popular, I can remember that switching them off while the PC was running quite often lead to a system crash.


----------



## vvv850

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GTXJackBauer*
> 
> Not sure where you're that info of much lower flow rates being acceptable. I personally wouldn't cloud the professional testing done by someone (Martinsliquidlab) and try reengineer his findings of what an efficient running loop flow should be. If you can provide some data on those claims, I'm all for it otherwise, I wouldn't change the 1.0-1.5 GPM window.


I posted this a while ago. Even if it's not a controlled environment or doesn't respect a specific protocol, it is easy to come to your own conclusions looking at this graph:


----------



## Mega Man

Relay and external power source then


----------



## vvv850

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> I would not connect CCFLs to the aquaero or anything else in the PC. These litter f*ckers are ticking time bombs. Their inverters are usually cheaply made without any interference elimination. Since they work with a very high voltage they can emit unhealthy bursts. In the days were they were more popular, I can remember that switching them off while the PC was running quite often lead to a system crash.


I know what you mean, but still, they are pretty awesome as white light









Also I just measured the peak Amperage when starting two 30cm tubes. It's 0.838A if anyone is interested.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> I would not connect CCFLs to the aquaero or anything else in the PC. *These litter f*ckers are ticking time bombs. Their inverters are usually cheaply made without any interference elimination*. Since they work with a very high voltage they can emit unhealthy bursts. In the days were they were more popular, I can remember that switching them off while the PC was running quite often lead to a system crash.


^^^^^^^

This times 100

If you have to use a cathode, always be sure to power down the PC every blessed time you plug or unplug the inverter, or the tube . . .

I wouldn't dream of risking an Aquaero to even be on the same Molex line as an inverter.


----------



## Master Chicken

Does no one make an IC regulated CCFL inverter operating at a frequency above the audible zone with line filtering? I know there are tons of cheap self-oscillating ones available ... especially on Alibaba.

People probably don't want to pay the extra $10 for the good ones. I would think there are a good number of laptop backlight inverters from the pre-LED days that would work better in a PC. Not sure what tube power levels they are designed for though.


----------



## vvv850

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> ^^^^^^^
> 
> This times 100
> 
> If you have to use a cathode, always be sure to power down the PC every blessed time you plug or unplug the inverter, or the tube . . .
> 
> I wouldn't dream of risking an Aquaero to even be on the same Molex line as an inverter.


OK, so what about white leds compatible with the PWM outputs. Can someone link some compatible white light sources just to get a notion for what I'm looking for?

Thanks


----------



## zeroibis

So I just noticed that the SATA power connector on the Aquastream Ultimate pump is upside down (faces the oppiset direction that a HDD or SSD would). As a result modern SATA power connectors which are right angle face up instead of down. So the problem is does anyone know where you can get a sata power adapter that will make it face down?


----------



## war4peace

Ref: 12V LEDs for the 12V PWM: I'd be interested to know that as well.
I have a couple "ultra-white" LEDs from EK, 12V, with Molex, but I am not satisfied with them.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zeroibis*
> 
> So I just noticed that the SATA power connector on the Aquastream Ultimate pump is upside down (faces the oppiset direction that a HDD or SSD would). As a result modern SATA power connectors which are right angle face up instead of down. So the problem is does anyone know where you can get a sata power adapter that will make it face down?


I am sorry, I am not understanding you. What exactly do you want to do?


----------



## vvv850

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *war4peace*
> 
> Ref: 12V LEDs for the 12V PWM: I'd be interested to know that as well.
> I have a couple "ultra-white" LEDs from EK, 12V, with Molex, but I am not satisfied with them.


I think 5050 LED strips single color two wire are ok though not all (or neither) are dimmable.


----------



## zeroibis

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> I am sorry, I am not understanding you. What exactly do you want to do?


Found it: http://www.performance-pcs.com/sata-power-cable-to-t-sata-power-sleeved.html#Details

Basically a sata power adapter that goes "up" instead of down if connected to a HDD. The above cable will go up and thus when connected to the pump will face down since the connector on the pump is upside down.


----------



## war4peace

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vvv850*
> 
> I think 5050 LED strips single color two wire are ok though not all (or neither) are dimmable.


I am only interested in 12V LEDs, 5mm diameter to be more precise.
Both my reservoirs have a LED G1/4" semi-transparent plug but the LEDs have three issues:
- They keep falling off those plugs (don't stay well in)
- They are not bright enough
- Their actual color is cool white (blueish).

Amazon, Ebay and the like are bursting at the seams with 12V 5mm white LED offerings, and I personally trust exactly zero of them. So maybe one of the forumites could recommend something they actually used and were satisfied with.


----------



## Master Chicken

Wow, I'm having trouble finding an T-1 3/4 White LED in a warm color temp. They are all up in the blue-ish range near 7000K.

The ony one I've found so far but the color temp isn't listed, it just says "warm".

They will have 20 in stock on 8/4. They have zero stock at the moment.

Any of the warm white LEDs are probably going to be doped phosphor re-emitters like this one.


----------



## war4peace

The weird thing is that my PSU (Super Flower Leadex Gold 750W) has LEDs where the modular cable outputs are, and they're a very nice pure white color. I took a snapshot with my mobile phone, the quality sucks but the difference between the shade of white of the PSU and the one on the 5mm LED is clearly visible. my RGB LED strips were set to red so that they don't interfere.



So it's clearly possible to obtain pure white, even LEDs should be able to output that color.


----------



## cekim

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *war4peace*
> 
> The weird thing is that my PSU (Super Flower Leadex Gold 750W) has LEDs where the modular cable outputs are, and they're a very nice pure white color. I took a snapshot with my mobile phone, the quality sucks but the difference between the shade of white of the PSU and the one on the 5mm LED is clearly visible. my RGB LED strips were set to red so that they don't interfere.
> 
> 
> 
> So it's clearly possible to obtain pure white, even LEDs should be able to output that color.


As the LED bulb industry generally has demonstrated, you have to perform ritual sacrifice and then render a unicorn on its 1394th day of life with a Damascus blade to achieve white below 3500K.

Seriously though, blue is cheaper and in less demand, so if you don't ask the right questions when buying "white", you don't get "the good stuff".


----------



## BoredErica

Thanks for the replies about the pump. The problem with using up pwm headers for the 2 pumps is that leaves only 2 headers left for fans. Originally I was hoping for 8 fan, 8 fan, 8 fan, 2 fan configuration.

I'm not sure I can even do two pumps on one header. It's rated at 30w, the pumps are up to 23w each. That's 46w total. I do have a heatsink installed, and running 1 pump per header I am getting 1.7C higher temps on the headers running the pumps at full speed compared to the two other headers doing nothing. (33.8C with pump)

Am I clear to do:

2 pumps

10 fans

8 fans

8 fans

The fans are clear since that use only up to 1.68w (I detected quite a bit below that via Aquaero actually).


----------



## war4peace

Use a PWM splitter and control both pumps from one PWM header but power them straight from the PSU through Molex. This is how my build is set up. Pumps are powered via the everlasting Molex and the PWM headers are in a splitter which goes into the Aquaero FAN1 header.


----------



## ruffhi

What type of pumps? PWM? Run them from the PSU (12v + GND) and use the Aquero to supply the PWM info.


----------



## Mega Man

if you want 4 fan headers you can also control from mobo, use a set and forget ( single speed ) .


----------



## BoredErica

> Originally Posted by *war4peace*
> 
> Use a PWM splitter and control both pumps from one PWM header but power them straight from the PSU through Molex. This is how my build is set up. Pumps are powered via the everlasting Molex and the PWM headers are in a splitter which goes into the Aquaero FAN1 header.





> Originally Posted by *ruffhi*
> 
> What type of pumps? PWM? Run them from the PSU (12v + GND) and use the Aquero to supply the PWM info.


Yes, PWM. They are EK Revo in Serial, the newest version. I suppose I could do Molex. More clutter though. All the molex connectors right now are occupied, I would need to hook up another PSU cable with molex.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> if you want 4 fan headers you can also control from mobo, use a set and forget ( single speed ) .


Going into mobo right now would also be more clutter (most of my water cooling hardware is outside of the case and I'd need cables going back into the case). So I'd be controlling pump speed via motherboard software?

I'm not sure if I want to do one speed or two speed (50% and 100%). Yes, people say the difference is not large but I'd rather do the testing myself for my own case (which is an atypical setup anyways). Hard to do that if I can't even plug in the relevant fans to start testing.


----------



## Mega Man

ok, get another x ( LT ) and use it as a slave - have 8 pwm channels


----------



## war4peace

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Darkwizzie*
> 
> Yes, PWM. They are EK Revo in Serial, the newest version. I suppose I could do Molex. More clutter though. All the molex connectors right now are occupied, I would need to hook up another PSU cable with molex.


You can also get a 1-to-4 Molex splitter, or 1-to-2, whichever variant you need.
Didn't your pumps come with 2 cables each? Mine have. 1x Molex for power and 1x PWM with only 2 pins occupied, of course.


----------



## BoredErica

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *war4peace*
> 
> You can also get a 1-to-4 Molex splitter, or 1-to-2, whichever variant you need.
> Didn't your pumps come with 2 cables each? Mine have. 1x Molex for power and 1x PWM with only 2 pins occupied, of course.


!!!

Oh god. I think you're right. My head's been occupied with a thousand things and I'm not recognizing things I shoud've. The molex power is already the power, the pwm is just the pwm signal then. Weird how just sending PWM signal the controller heats up by 1.7C then, then plugging in a fan the temps did not change at all.


----------



## GTXJackBauer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Darkwizzie*
> 
> !!!
> 
> Oh god. I think you're right. My head's been occupied with a thousand things and I'm not recognizing things I shoud've. The molex power is already the power, the pwm is just the pwm signal then. Weird how just sending PWM signal the controller heats up by 1.7C then, then plugging in a fan the temps did not change at all.


This is what I use to combine both of my pumps to channel 1, leaving the rest for fans.


----------



## DMatthewStewart

*Had something weird just happen with my Aquaero 5 LT.* I updated (a week ago) Aquasuite and it seems like all of the values got locked. My fans do not respond to any changes I make in Aquasuite. Ive updated many times and kept my settings and Ive never had the entire system go unresponsive. Anyone know how to fix this without the obvious of wiping Aquaero settings and redoing everything that has taken me a long time to get just right?

In addition, my virtual flow sensor from my Aquastream also isnt reading correctly as of today. Ive had this update installed for at least a week. Nothing has changed. It just stopped working today. I almost attributed this to the Aquaero just failing but then I should see misreadings on the Aquaero when trying to read the pump info. Im not seeing that. The flow sensor is wrong on both. It either reads 0 l/h and sometimes will show 40 l/h in a spike. The rpms that it is at should be pumping a min of 7-80 l/h and that is always what it read as.

Any suggestions as to how to start diagnosing this? If the Aquaero is bad Id like to find out asap and replace it.

Thanks


----------



## smicha

The power of AQUAERO 6 PRO


----------



## vvv850

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *smicha*
> 
> The power of AQUAERO 6 PRO


Series? Would really be curious on what temps you got on those under load.


----------



## smicha

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vvv850*
> 
> Series? Would really be curious on what temps you got on those under load.


25C it idle, 35-50C at full load. When ambient is 24C max temps are 37-40C.


----------



## vvv850

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *smicha*
> 
> 25C it idle, 35-50C at full load. When ambient is 24C max temps are 37-40C.


Nice temps, good cooling. Mining right? In this case, what's the load reported on the GPUs, it's not 100% (neither is the power load) I believe or am I wrong?


----------



## smicha

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vvv850*
> 
> Nice temps, good cooling. Mining right? In this case, what's the load reported on the GPUs, it's not 100% (neither is the power load) I believe or am I wrong?


It is not for mining - but for Octane Render - the machine scores 2180 in Octane Benchmark.
https://render.otoy.com/octanebench/results.php


----------



## JasonMorris

Epic build mate nice one.


----------



## cekim

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *smicha*
> 
> The power of AQUAERO 6 PRO


Nice...


----------



## silentLightning

aquaero 6 owner here. When I choose virtual sensors 1-2 what mode do I choose, difference sensor 1-2 or absolute difference. What's the difference lol
Have one water temp and one air at front intake.


----------



## Master Chicken

The difference can go negative where the absolute value of the difference will always be positive.


----------



## silentLightning

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Master Chicken*
> 
> The difference can go negative where the absolute value of the difference will always be positive.


went with absolute difference mode.
Another question setting curve control set it same as starting temp at beginning of curve? It's a lot of guess work for me, yea I'm confused. Thanks for your help


----------



## silentLightning

Nvm after 4 plus hrs I whooped it real good
Everything appears to work.. Finally. Thanks to another poster I've found you need to save settings to profile 1 saves one from resetting everything manually on every restart no jets taking off peaceful an quiet


----------



## Dasandmancometh

Couple of questions about first start up.

I have two of the D5 pumps with the aquabus going into my A6 pro. Do I need to configure the pumps via USB before hooking up the the aquabus to the A6 pro?

I've done a lot of research and found conflicting info.


----------



## GTXJackBauer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dasandmancometh*
> 
> Couple of questions about first start up.
> 
> I have two of the D5 pumps with the aquabus going into my A6 pro. Do I need to configure the pumps via USB before hooking up the the aquabus to the A6 pro?
> 
> I've done a lot of research and found conflicting info.


You first need to assign each pump it's own unique ID through the aquasuite software via USB first and than you can switch it to Aquabus. You can have both connections on there, you just switch to either one through the software.


----------



## lovan6

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dasandmancometh*
> 
> Couple of questions about first start up.
> 
> I have two of the D5 pumps with the aquabus going into my A6 pro. Do I need to configure the pumps via USB before hooking up the the aquabus to the A6 pro?
> 
> I've done a lot of research and found conflicting info.


Plug the USB first with out the Aquabus cable. Default Aquabus ID number is 12 ( MPS ID 12,13,14,15). Change the other Aquabus pump to 13. If you have prior Aquabus installed, go to next Aquabus ID 13,14,15.

On USB set priority to Aquabus. Also you can rename the pump too. Click the floppy icon to save both configurations.

Turn off Computer and unplug from power.

Plug the Aquabus cable from Pump to the Aquaero High Aquabus port. You can now unplug the USB cable. Power on the computer and open Aquasuite.

On the Pumps Tab, Choose "Set by Controller" ( You should see a pump info if Aquabus ID is assigned correctly from USB)

Chose how you want to control your pump using preset controller, Curve controller, 2 point controller, or Setpoint Controller.

Read this link if it does not make sense to you.

http://www.serifwebresources.com/phpBB2mt/viewtopic.php?t=7&forumid=872280

https://forum.aquacomputer.de/weitere-foren/english-forum/p1418445-question-about-controlling-pump-speed/?highlight=D5+pump+speed#post1418445


----------



## Dasandmancometh

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lovan6*
> 
> Plug the USB first with out the Aquabus cable. Default Aquabus ID number is 12 ( MPS ID 12,13,14,15). Change the other Aquabus pump to 13. If you have prior Aquabus installed, go to next Aquabus ID 13,14,15.
> 
> On USB set priority to Aquabus. Also you can rename the pump too. Click the floppy icon to save both configurations.
> 
> Turn off Computer and unplug from power.
> 
> Plug the Aquabus cable from Pump to the Aquaero High Aquabus port. You can now unplug the USB cable. Power on the computer and open Aquasuite.
> 
> On the Pumps Tab, Choose "Set by Controller" ( You should see a pump info if Aquabus ID is assigned correctly from USB)
> 
> Chose how you want to control your pump using preset controller, Curve controller, 2 point controller, or Setpoint Controller.
> 
> Read this link if it does not make sense to you.
> 
> http://www.serifwebresources.com/phpBB2mt/viewtopic.php?t=7&forumid=872280
> 
> https://forum.aquacomputer.de/weitere-foren/english-forum/p1418445-question-about-controlling-pump-speed/?highlight=D5+pump+speed#post1418445


Copy, can I do both pumps at the same time or do I need to do them separately due the default ID being the same for both?


----------



## lovan6

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dasandmancometh*
> 
> Copy, can I do both pumps at the same time or do I need to do them separately due the default ID being the same for both?


Once you are on USB do both pump configurations at the same time.

Also, make sure you have an Aquabus 3 or 4 pin splitter or a Splitty 9 set on pin header to Aquabus. The Aquaero has only 1 High port Aquabus. You can use the provided 3 pin Aquabus cables too since the pump is plug to 12-volt molex.


----------



## Dasandmancometh

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lovan6*
> 
> Once you are on USB do both pump configurations at the same time.
> 
> Also, make sure you have an Aquabus 3 or 4 pin splitter or a Splitty 9 set on pin header to Aquabus. The Aquaero has only 1 High port Aquabus. You can use the provided 3 pin Aquabus cables too since the pump is plug to 12-volt molex.


Can I do this on another computer and the D5 will save it's ID and settings?

In the A6 pro instructions it says I can use the high and low with 3 pin aquabus devices? Which is what I planned to do, hook one up to the high and one to low. Is this incorrect?


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Master Chicken*
> 
> The difference can go negative where the absolute value of the difference will always be positive.


Correct
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *silentLightning*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Master Chicken*
> 
> The difference can go negative where the absolute value of the difference will always be positive.
> 
> 
> 
> went with absolute difference mode.
> Another question setting curve control set it same as starting temp at beginning of curve? It's a lot of guess work for me, yea I'm confused. Thanks for your help
Click to expand...

please aka for any other issues since you seen to of figured this out
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dasandmancometh*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *lovan6*
> 
> Once you are on USB do both pump configurations at the same time.
> 
> Also, make sure you have an Aquabus 3 or 4 pin splitter or a Splitty 9 set on pin header to Aquabus. The Aquaero has only 1 High port Aquabus. You can use the provided 3 pin Aquabus cables too since the pump is plug to 12-volt molex.
> 
> 
> 
> Can I do this on another computer and the D5 will save it's ID and settings?
> 
> In the A6 pro instructions it says I can use the high and low with 3 pin aquabus devices? Which is what I planned to do, hook one up to the high and one to low. Is this incorrect?
Click to expand...

Generally no.

But @Shoggy been meaning to ask, can we now use the "low" port for high, devices that get power from fat four pin?


----------



## lovan6

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dasandmancometh*
> 
> Can I do this on another computer and the D5 will save it's ID and settings?
> 
> In the A6 pro instructions it says I can use the high and low with 3 pin aquabus devices? Which is what I planned to do, hook one up to the high and one to low. Is this incorrect?


You can use a Laptop with Aquasuite and plug the Aquaero USB to laptops USB but you will need a special cable to do that. You can also use the desktop with Aquasuite.

Once Aquabus ID is set to pump it will be retained in the pump's memory.

The low Aquabus on the Aquaero is turn off and no longer supported. As I said the pump will run on a 3 pin Aquabus high port with your pump plug to 12 volt Molex which is plug to your power supply. Some MPS devices need the 4th pin to supply 5 volts without USB like the MPS sensor for example.


----------



## Dasandmancometh

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lovan6*
> 
> You can use a Laptop with Aquasuite and plug the Aquaero USB to laptops USB but you will need a special cable to do that. You can also use the desktop with Aquasuite.
> 
> Once Aquabus ID is set to pump it will be retained in the pump's memory.
> 
> The low Aquabus on the Aquaero is turn off and no longer supported. As I said the pump will run on a 3 pin Aquabus high port with your pump plug to 12 volt Molex which is plug to your power supply. Some MPS devices need the 4th pin to supply 5 volts without USB like the MPS sensor for example.


I already have a USB to USB header cable, so that works out. Will the control option be stored in the pump or does that get stored in the settings?

That sucks, hate when plans don't work out. Can I use an aquabus Y-cable instead of a splitty 9? I don't plan to add anything else other than the two D5's.


----------



## lovan6

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dasandmancometh*
> 
> I already have a USB to USB header cable, so that works out. Will the control option be stored in the pump or does that get stored in the settings?
> 
> That sucks, hate when plans don't work out. Can I use an aquabus Y-cable instead of a splitty 9? I don't plan to add anything else other than the two D5's.


What I know is the Aquabus pump ID will be stored on the pump while the settings will be stored on the Aquaero.

Yes Aquabus Y cable splitter is sufficient.


----------



## Phaedrus89

Does anyone know of a longer 3pin-3pin flow meter cable (preferably sleeved) that exists? The one I ordered Is laughably short in an SMA8.


----------



## vvv850

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phaedrus89*
> 
> Does anyone know of a longer 3pin-3pin flow meter cable (preferably sleeved) that exists? The one I ordered Is laughably short in an SMA8.


I believe the cable is already sleeved. You can also extend it using a 3 pin fan extension (male-female). I don't think you will find a longer cable as the sensor terminal is not so common.


----------



## Jubijub

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phaedrus89*
> 
> Does anyone know of a longer 3pin-3pin flow meter cable (preferably sleeved) that exists? The one I ordered Is laughably short in an SMA8.


Related, as I have the same problem : if one wanted to manufacture such a cable, what is the part number of the housing + crimp terminals of the "big" 3pin side ?

I could go ugly and simply splice the wires, but I'd prefer to do something cleaner









I believe we are talking about this cable, right ? : https://shop.aquacomputer.de/product_info.php?products_id=1622&XTCsid=91pnhdjn2btrihr8b0pei41vas3njnqs


----------



## Phaedrus89

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vvv850*
> 
> I believe the cable is already sleeved. You can also extend it using a 3 pin fan extension (male-female). I don't think you will find a longer cable as the sensor terminal is not so common.


This one is already sleeved, minus any heatshrink on the ends, which i can live with. 3pin extension is a good idea.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jubijub*
> 
> Related, as I have the same problem : if one wanted to manufacture such a cable, what is the part number of the housing + crimp terminals of the "big" 3pin side ?
> 
> I could go ugly and simply splice the wires, but I'd prefer to do something cleaner
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I believe we are talking about this cable, right ? : https://shop.aquacomputer.de/product_info.php?products_id=1622&XTCsid=91pnhdjn2btrihr8b0pei41vas3njnqs


----------



## Phaedrus89

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jubijub*
> 
> Related, as I have the same problem : if one wanted to manufacture such a cable, what is the part number of the housing + crimp terminals of the "big" 3pin side ?
> 
> I could go ugly and simply splice the wires, but I'd prefer to do something cleaner
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I believe we are talking about this cable, right ? : https://shop.aquacomputer.de/product_info.php?products_id=1622&XTCsid=91pnhdjn2btrihr8b0pei41vas3njnqs


HA! Now i see they make a 70cm cable....


----------



## Revan654

I know it's been awhile since the talk about BeQuiet Silent Wings 3 PWM. What was the end result? Should we be running the PWM versions in DC mode or in PWM mode?


----------



## iamjanco

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> I know it's been awhile since the talk about BeQuiet Silent Wings 3 PWM. What was the end result? Should we be running the PWM versions in DC mode or in PWM mode?


Darlene @IT Diva may wish to chime in here. I still plan on doing my own testing, but that might not be until September when things slow down for me a bit.


----------



## Jubijub

Question about Aquabus system, and power (or lack, thereoff).

My understanding from all manuals is that Aquabus exists in 3pin flavour, and 4 pin flavour. the 3 first pins are exactly the same, the 4th convey a 5V signal.
On top of that, some may be powered by USB, and some have their own power access(molex/SATA)

I have the following Aquabus elements :

- Flow sensor : Flow bus, which is powered
- D5 pumps : USB + Aquabus + Molex
- Aquaero itself : USB + Molex
- Aqualis : USB + Aquabus
- Hubby7 : USB + SATA
- Splitty9 : Aquabus only

I'd like to be in a position to leave USB plugged, so I can easily manage elements without having to open my case. I plan to wire those components as follows :

- Flow sensor : Flow bus
- D5 pumps : USB + Aquabus 3pin + Molex ==> I suspect in this mode the pump doesn't try and take power from USB ? The manual is confusing, as I don't see why the pump would try to power from USB while it has a Molex plug.
- Aquaero itself : USB + Molex ==> Molex for regular ops, and USB for standby power supply (which I won't have, see below)
- Aqualis : USB + Aquabus 3 pins ==> my understanding is that if USB is present it serves power, if not this requires an Aquabus 4pin ?
- Hubby7 : USB + SATA ==> will use the SATA mode, which means no USB power standby
- Splitty9 : Aquabus 4pin

Is this correct ? Am I missing something ?


----------



## Shoggy

D5: since the pump must be powered by the PSU anyway, a power supply via USB or aquabus is irrelevant. The pump needs 12V to work; aquabus or USB can only supply 5V with a low current so it could only power the controller board. If you want to use aquabus to control the pump, make sure to change the priority setting from USB to aquabus in the system tab of the software (can be only done when connected via USB).

aqualis: you need a 4-pin aquabus cable if you do not want to use the USB connection. Well, you need USB for the initial setup where you do the fill level calibration and you also have to change the aquabus ID number in the system tab because the D5 pump will use the same ID number by default.


----------



## Ashcroft

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GTXJackBauer*
> 
> Not sure where you're that info of much lower flow rates being acceptable. I personally wouldn't cloud the professional testing done by someone (Martinsliquidlab) and try reengineer his findings of what an efficient running loop flow should be. If you can provide some data on those claims, I'm all for it otherwise, I wouldn't change the 1.0-1.5 GPM window.


From Martin's own testing is one source. He never claimed 1gpm was necessary, just that it was the point where one specific delta measurement gains leveled off, and that from experience it was good for bleeding etc.

His data shows the relatively minor core-coolant delta temp difference from lower flows.
Most blocks don't show a significant climbing of temp above 0.5gpm. (Edit: Til 0.5gpm and lower.) I have to set my D5 at min speed to get to 0.5
Radiator dissipation vs flow follows a similar trend.
These metrics don't take pump heating into account so the real differences can be even less.

Under normal gaming loads I get about 2C difference in chip temps from 1.8Lpm to 4.5Lpm. Other systems mileage will vary of coarse


----------



## Costas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ashcroft*
> 
> Most blocks don't show a significant climbing of temp above 0.5gpm.


That's pretty much what I found when doing some experimentation with low flows in my system.

I could only drop down to 0.6GPM due to my dual pump setup - However even at this relatively low flow setting, cooling my 2 GPUs and CPU etc was not really an issue.

At real heavy load testing (Prime/CPU OCCT/GPUs) I would only see around 5C to 8C max improvement on my GPU's and/or CPU if I bumped up flow rate to above 1GPM...









So for the majority of people - low flow rates are not so much of an issue. It really is only a consideration if striving for ultimate performance or overclocking etc at thermal limits etc.


----------



## Jubijub

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> D5: since the pump must be powered by the PSU anyway, a power supply via USB or aquabus is irrelevant. The pump needs 12V to work; aquabus or USB can only supply 5V with a low current so it could only power the controller board. If you want to use aquabus to control the pump, make sure to change the priority setting from USB to aquabus in the system tab of the software (can be only done when connected via USB).
> 
> aqualis: you need a 4-pin aquabus cable if you do not want to use the USB connection. Well, you need USB for the initial setup where you do the fill level calibration and you also have to change the aquabus ID number in the system tab because the D5 pump will use the same ID number by default.


Thanks for your answer, you got to my second question : can I leave the USB plugged all the time ? or is it recommended to unplug the USB after initial setup ?


----------



## Shoggy

You can also have USB and aquabus connected at the same time.


----------



## BoredErica

Hey Shoggy, should I get two Shoggy sandwiches for EK Revo in serial?

Will there be mayo and mustard?


----------



## zeroibis

When using the Aquastream Ultimate with the AQ6 do you need to connect via USB and aquabus or will simply connecting the Aquastream Ultimate via USB be fine. I do not want to connect more wires than I need to.

Also for those looking for a left angle sata power connector for use with the Aquastream pump I went with this one: http://www.performance-pcs.com/new-modright-black-out-series-4-pin-molex-to-sata-power-adapter-cable-8.html#Details

It should face down when connected to the Aquastream and it adapts to molex so that I do not need to run sata power to that side of the case. (I already am running molex to power the AQ6 that I have next to the pump.


----------



## GTXJackBauer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Costas*
> 
> That's pretty much what I found when doing some experimentation with low flows in my system.
> 
> I could only drop down to 0.6GPM due to my dual pump setup - However even at this relatively low flow setting, cooling my 2 GPUs and CPU etc was not really an issue.
> 
> At real heavy load testing (Prime/CPU OCCT/GPUs) I would only see around 5C to 8C max improvement on my GPU's and/or CPU if I bumped up flow rate to above 1GPM...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So for the majority of people - low flow rates are not so much of an issue. It really is only a consideration if striving for ultimate performance or overclocking etc at thermal limits etc.


I use my system to sometimes fold so yeah, it will make a difference for me personally. For a gamer, maybe not so much but having a general flow that's been proven and tested professionally, is the standard for most while other's feel differently but so be it, its their systems.

I have also seen a 8c-10c water temps increase if I drop the flow rate under say, .07 to .08 GPM. Now imagine 5-8hrs+ (Folding) of a loop saturated at those different flow rates, obviously the faster flowing loop will be a bit less saturated than the slower rate with the same rads and the same fan RPMs. Eventually you'll hit diminishing returns but of course that can differ since not all systems are the same.


----------



## BoredErica

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GTXJackBauer*
> 
> I use my system to sometimes fold so yeah, it will make a difference for me personally. For a gamer, maybe not so much but having a general flow that's been proven and tested professionally, is the standard for most while other's feel differently but so be it, its their systems.
> 
> I have also seen a 8c-10c water temps increase if I drop the flow rate under say, .07 to .08 GPM. Now imagine 5-8hrs+ (Folding) of a loop saturated at those different flow rates, obviously the faster flowing loop will be a bit less saturated than the slower rate with the same rads and the same fan RPMs. Eventually you'll hit diminishing returns but of course that can differ since not all systems are the same.


I want to do some testing of flow rates since I use dual d5 Revo with 3 giant restrictive-ish rads and a lot of tubing. It would be annoying to have to remove and add some tubing just for the test though, and then remove it when the test is over.

The flow meter that pairs with Aquaero looks nice but costs a bit.

1800 RPM is very quiet... but can't go much above that before I can hear the pumps.


----------



## Shoggy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zeroibis*
> 
> When using the Aquastream Ultimate with the AQ6 do you need to connect via USB and aquabus or will simply connecting the Aquastream Ultimate via USB be fine. I do not want to connect more wires than I need to.


You have to switch the pump to the aquabus mode in the pump tab of the pump itself. So you have to connect the pump at least one time via USB to do this little adjustment. Afterwards you can remove the USB connection from the pump.


----------



## zeroibis

My question was if I gain anything by doing that other than extra work. Can I just leave it connected via USB and control all operations of the pump that way without issue?

Also does anyone else have issues pressure testing the aquainlet with the Dr. Drop? I am observing that the res does not form a "perfect" seal at the top. It loses about 0.02 after 12 hours. You can start to see movement but not enough to measure accurately, perhaps around 0.008 bar after 2 hours.

I figure this is so small and at the top of the res it should not matter but I wanted to ensure this was normal and not something that was just effecting me.


----------



## Shoggy

You can also only use USB which provides full control while aquabus is limited. Only advantage is that the aquaero could control the pump directly.

Dr. Drop is not really suitable for a 12 hour test because the device itself will also lose air by time. So if you wait long enough, everything seems to be leaking


----------



## Windeh

Hey Shoggy,

Sent the below question to [email protected] yesterday, but haven't received a reply yet, thought I'd post here too as it may help others with similar issue.

I have recently purchased the "Pressure sensor mps pressure Delta 40" from AC, and have installed as seen in the photo below;


I have setup the device using USB connection as I did with all my previous MPS device, and it is working fine with the pressure reading in Aquasuite via USB. However I found that if I connect this pressure sensor to my Aquaero using the Aquabus, the Aquaero stops detecting ALL my other attached devises, so nothing shows up in Aquasuite, until I unplug this pressure sensor, then the other device appears in Aquasuite again.

The following is connected to the Aquabus prior to connecting the Pressure Sensor;

Real Time Clock
Farbwerk (Address 20)

I have tried the following to diagnose the issue (With the outcome in brackets);

Switching between the 2 Aquabus port on the Real Time Clock (Same issue)
Remove the Real Time Clock and plug in directly the the HIGH port on the Aquaero (The pressure sensor is still not detected)
Re-Update the Aquaero Firmware and reset the settings (Same issue)
Changing the address of the Pressure Sensor VIA the USB connection (Same issue)
Plugging in another MPS device (Flow Sensor MPS Flow 400, detected without issue)
Changing the Priority between USB / Aquabus (Same issue)

Please let me know if there is any other things I should try. I want to be able to connect using the Aquabus so that I may have data from the device to the Aquaero without using USB cables.


----------



## GTXJackBauer

How many MPS devices do you have installed? I only ask since its limited to 4.


----------



## Ashcroft

When adding new Aquabus devices it is important to remove all power from the Aquaero prior to connecting the Aquabus cable. Including USB standby power from the MB.
The Aquaero must go through a detection routine on startup.

Failing to do so can mess with the system causing all devices to not show up. Plus, sometimes Aquabus is just fussy and it can take a couple of tries in my experience.


----------



## AGR-13

Hi there

Here a picture of my Aquaero 6 PRO during the build:



I modded it to be able to get it out of the case without opening the whole case. That's why it looks like this









here's the full rig:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=57uL6v-BXLY


----------



## Master Chicken

Well that is just a crazy nice build. I've the openness and the glass along with the nickel/chrome tubing. Very distinctive.


----------



## AGR-13

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Master Chicken*
> 
> Well that is just a crazy nice build. I've the openness and the glass along with the nickel/chrome tubing. Very distinctive.


Thx a lot! When this case came out in 2013 I just had to have it - then a asian modder inspired me to build a watercooling with chrome plated tubes. So that's how it started and this is Version 2. I wasn't sure if I really should buy an Aquaero - but hey, I'm so happy I did it. It's such an awesome device. Aquacomputer really knows what it needs to control your system.

And by taking parts of a meccano toy







I was able to construct something that is relieable to take the Aquaero out of the front and doesn't hurt the case. It's not the pro way, but it works


----------



## GTXJackBauer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AGR-13*
> 
> here's the full rig:


That is one amazing looking rig. Great job!

I would also like to add that you can post a custom image on the Aquaero if you'd like. Just follow these steps.


----------



## AGR-13

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GTXJackBauer*
> 
> That is one amazing looking rig. Great job!
> 
> I would also like to add that you can post a custom image on the Aquaero if you'd like. Just follow these steps.


Hey, thanks a lot for the hint! That's what I tried and not succeded until now. On the Vision, it was no problem. But I did something wrong with the Aquaero image. I try it and give feedback - thx!


----------



## ttnuagmada

Does anyone have any recommendations on how to mount an Aquaero 6 LT to the backside of the main panel of an SMA8?

edit: forgive me, this was discussed on the previous page.


----------



## TheAbyss

Good morning, does anyone know what the connector should be for the two 2-pin PWM sockets the AE6 has? I cannot find the correct connector to solder my 12V LEDs to those sockets.

Furthermore, any on-Hand experience is highly appreciated when it Comes to ambient sensor Placement in the case... I thought about it myself and came up with at least one proper Position (behind MoBo tray near the CPU), but any other good idea would be nice.

Thanks


----------



## GTXJackBauer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheAbyss*
> 
> Good morning, does anyone know what the connector should be for the two 2-pin PWM sockets the AE6 has? I cannot find the correct connector to solder my 12V LEDs to those sockets.
> 
> Furthermore, any on-Hand experience is highly appreciated when it Comes to ambient sensor Placement in the case... I thought about it myself and came up with at least one proper Position (behind MoBo tray near the CPU), but any other good idea would be nice.
> 
> Thanks


The connectors I believe are sold on Aqua's site.

For sensors, I use air temp sensors for ambient air readings and water temp sensors from the loop. Just position your air temp probes where your intakes are. You could add sensors in different compartments of your case but that is all up to you.


----------



## TheAbyss

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GTXJackBauer*
> 
> The connectors I believe are sold on Aqua's site.
> 
> For sensors, I use air temp sensors for ambient air readings and water temp sensors from the loop. Just position your air temp probes where your intakes are. You could add sensors in different compartments of your case but that is all up to you.


Thanks for no.1, I did not notice that... unfortunately. I just had an order from aqaucomputer shipped yesterday....

For the sensors, I know what they are for and have an built-in water temp sensor in the MPS200, but I was just curious WHERE you have put the ambient air sensors and for what reason.. can you explain why you measure the intake air temp?..as I said, I´ll propably put one behind the tray next to the CPU, but the rest is not clear for me so far, due to lack of watercooling experience.


----------



## GTXJackBauer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheAbyss*
> 
> Thanks for no.1, I did not notice that... unfortunately. I just had an order from aqaucomputer shipped yesterday....
> 
> For the sensors, I know what they are for and have an built-in water temp sensor in the MPS200, but I was just curious WHERE you have put the ambient air sensors and for what reason.. can you explain why you measure the intake air temp?..as I said, I´ll propably put one behind the tray next to the CPU, but the rest is not clear for me so far, due to lack of watercooling experience.


The reason why most put the air temp sensors say near or on their intakes, internally or externally is to get the closest readings of their ambient air temps. You than take your water temps, which will be a higher number since it's warmer than your ambient room temp and take your air temp readings, which will be a lower number and subtract the both which gives you your Delta-Temp for your loop. It's basically a reading telling you how close you are to ambient temps. The closer you are, the more efficient your loop performs.



The great thing about the Aquasuite software is, it allows you to input this information (Sensor's Tab ---> Virtual temperature sensors) and showcase your delta temps which in return lets you know how your loop's performing. That's just one way of monitoring your system as there other ways you can add to that.


----------



## TheAbyss

Got it, thanks a lot for the Explanation.


----------



## hadesfactor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GTXJackBauer*
> 
> The reason why most put the air temp sensors say near or on their intakes, internally or externally is to get the closest readings of their ambient air temps. You than take your water temps, which will be a higher number since it's warmer than your ambient room temp and take your air temp readings, which will be a lower number and subtract the both which gives you your Delta-Temp for your loop. It's basically a reading telling you how close you are to ambient temps. The closer you are, the more efficient your loop performs.
> 
> 
> 
> The great thing about the Aquasuite software is, it allows you to input this information (Sensor's Tab ---> Virtual temperature sensors) and showcase your delta temps which in return lets you know how your loop's performing. That's just one way of monitoring your system as there other ways you can add to that.


Just to add I usally have a few different intake sensors in lets say a 6" diam then take the average reading from that....primarily because temp sensors can vary it also lets my see if 1 sensors is bad etc.

@theabyss achieving less then 5C under stress tests load isn't that hard even if it seems like its low....your cooling should remain constant if it 5c at idle and your loop is done right it will be the same under load. So for me, I set my fan curve to not really start pushing air until it hit 3.5c delta then gradually goes up and I have it maxed out at 8c delta although Its never really reached that. Dont forget, your chip might hit 60+C under a stress test while you delta remains the same and your water will only go up a degree or 2 because the amount of heat/energy required to raise your coolant is a lot higher then you would think. Where I am in Arizona my ambient is 26-29 right now being the summer but my 6850k with a modest OC of 4.3 stays 40c and under during load....1080 ti doesnt usually go higher then 30c +- 2c

on another off topic...keep in mind that a custom loop will inherently cause your case to have negative pressure so depending on how many rads and the size of them you can almost set your exhaust fan to silent as possible....for me I have 2x480mm plus the 140 exhaust fan so I turn down my exhaust fan to lets say 15% and my intake to around 60% to balance out the pressure a little which will help keep you ambient more constant


----------



## zeroibis

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hadesfactor*
> 
> on another off topic...keep in mind that a custom loop will inherently cause your case to have *negative* pressure so depending on how many rads and the size of them you can almost set your exhaust fan to silent as possible....for me I have 2x480mm plus the 140 exhaust fan so I turn down my exhaust fan to lets say 15% and my intake to around 60% to balance out the pressure a little which will help keep you ambient more constant


I think you mean positive.


----------



## hadesfactor

.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zeroibis*
> 
> I think you mean positive.


nope meant negative....when you have radiators with multiple fans all blowing air out and an exhaust fan you will have more negative pressure not positive. pos pressure is when your intake is more then you exhaust. If you have 2 rads with 3x120mm fans and another 140mm exhaust fan that will cause neg pressure unless your rads are set up to pull air into the case which isnt a good idea imo because you want to expel the hot air from your rads although I know some people have a 240mm rad in the front working as an intake Even with the static pressure from the rads, if you are using sp optimized fans and a lot of them=neg pressure....thats why setting up optimal curves and not having your rad fans up high even if you dont care about noise and just want as much cooling as possible or making sure your intake rises with your exhauset Having more neg pressure sucks air in from crevices all over the case to try to compensate to balance itself out.


----------



## zeroibis

Oh, I always use rads on intakes so the idea that you could have more of them on exhaust did not occur to me. The difference in air temp is so small it is not going to effect anything, instead the benefits of positive pressure that you gain are worth it most of the time. Also sometimes the airflow might be better with the rads as an intake so that even with the temp difference the airflow actually lowers temps. Logically this all is on a case by case basis if you know what I mean lol.


----------



## hadesfactor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zeroibis*
> 
> Oh, I always use rads on intakes so the idea that you could have more of them on exhaust did not occur to me. The difference in air temp is so small it is not going to effect anything, instead the benefits of positive pressure that you gain are worth it most of the time. Also sometimes the airflow might be better with the rads as an intake so that even with the temp difference the airflow actually lowers temps. Logically this all is on a case by case basis if you know what I mean lol.


Yeah I've always used it as an ex exhaust but that's my personal pref I like to expel the air from the rads but im OCD so even if its only a degree or 2 ill do it lol. even my bottom rad is an exhaust but I have 3 intakes and 1 is just on the bottom half where the pumps, cable and PSU is so both halves get fresh intake air.....so yeah if you have your rads pulling air into the case then just reverse the process lol more exhaust....basically regardless you want a bit more positive pressure for nothing more then to keep dust from pulling into the crevices in your case...obviously neutral is perfect but you'll never get perfect neutral imo


----------



## GTXJackBauer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zeroibis*
> 
> Oh, I always use rads on intakes so the idea that you could have more of them on exhaust did not occur to me. The difference in air temp is so small it is not going to effect anything, instead the benefits of positive pressure that you gain are worth it most of the time. Also sometimes the airflow might be better with the rads as an intake so that even with the temp difference the airflow actually lowers temps.










This.

In most cases, most computer cases come with filters so with everything that's been said already plus that is a win-win. I don't believe having it all exhaust with only a few intakes is a good idea aka negative pressure. You want your rads to get the coolest air. There shouldn't be an issue with the internal ambient case temps unless its a uber small case. Heck, you'll see folding rigs with 5+ GPUs running a positive pressure configuration with no issues. I also believe the dust buildup will possibly increase with negative pressure because it will look for air anywhere it can get it from, case's seams, etc.


----------



## ttnuagmada

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ttnuagmada*
> 
> Does anyone have any recommendations on how to mount an Aquaero 6 LT to the backside of the main panel of an SMA8?
> 
> edit: forgive me, this was discussed on the previous page.


Just thought I would share that I used one of the rectangular plates from the top rad mount in my SMA8 to mount my Aquaero 6 LT to. It was the perfect size


----------



## hadesfactor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GTXJackBauer*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This.
> 
> In most cases, most computer cases come with filters so with everything that's been said already plus that is a win-win. I don't believe having it all exhaust with only a few intakes is a good idea aka negative pressure. You want your rads to get the coolest air. There shouldn't be an issue with the internal ambient case temps unless its a uber small case. Heck, you'll see folding rigs with 5+ GPUs running a positive pressure configuration with no issues. I also believe the dust buildup will possibly increase with negative pressure because it will look for air anywhere it can get it from, case's seams, etc.


What you are missing is you only actually need 1 intake to provide the air necessary to produce positive pressure even in a case with multiple rads do to the fact you will never push the same amount of air through an obstruct as you would with no obstruction...that being said my case has 3 intakes lol. the temp of air is the temp of air period...energy, in our case heat, makes it hotter. The temps of my air intake is the same as my temp outside the case...it might feel cooler coming from a fan but its the same temp trust me. That being said it is a small difference in temp but I rather push hot air from my system then pull hotter air into my system. In a water cooled PC where the heat exchange happens at the blocks and not through a heat-sink and fan set up your PC ambient should be within a degree or 2 of your outside case ambient in good positive flow or neutral flow your temp should be pretty much the same.

Also, if you read my post I posted that to prevent negative pressure as I said it was bad as no one who knows what they are talking about can say neg pressure in a PC is good as it will balance itself out by sucking in air from all of the crevices so that whole bottom portion of you post Im not sure who it was directed to because I think we are all on the same page here.

Remember guys unless you are using phase change your water temps will not get cooler then ambient and with a well designed case the ambient in your case will be the same as outside your case....pulling air from my case that is the same temp as outside my case imo is better then pulling air from outside my case through my rad which has a high temp.....but, as I said in my earlier post, the temp is only a few degrees hotter but my OCD and the need to be as efficient as possible make me run my set-up that way but everyone's set up is different, different tastes style etc and really as long as you have positive pressure and good temps it doesn matter how you have it set up....the purpose of these forums is to get different points of views and decide the correct or better choice in your case....that is IMO


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheAbyss*
> 
> Good morning, does anyone know what the connector should be for the two 2-pin PWM sockets the AE6 has? I cannot find the correct connector to solder my 12V LEDs to those sockets.
> 
> Furthermore, any on-Hand experience is highly appreciated when it Comes to ambient sensor Placement in the case... I thought about it myself and came up with at least one proper Position (behind MoBo tray near the CPU), but any other good idea would be nice.
> 
> Thanks


as stated- in the flow of fans, sometimes infront of them
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hadesfactor*
> 
> .
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *zeroibis*
> 
> I think you mean positive.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> nope meant negative....when you have radiators with multiple fans all blowing air out and an exhaust fan you will have more negative pressure not positive. pos pressure is when your intake is more then you exhaust. If you have 2 rads with 3x120mm fans and another 140mm exhaust fan that will cause neg pressure unless your rads are set up to pull air into the case which isnt a good idea imo because you want to expel the hot air from your rads although I know some people have a 240mm rad in the front working as an intake Even with the static pressure from the rads, if you are using sp optimized fans and a lot of them=neg pressure....thats why setting up optimal curves and not having your rad fans up high even if you dont care about noise and just want as much cooling as possible or making sure your intake rises with your exhauset Having more neg pressure sucks air in from crevices all over the case to try to compensate to balance itself out.
Click to expand...

i am so lost. here you seem to think fan count matters to pressure ( in terms of positive or negative ) and the post above seems to se e you dont.

most will have all rads as intakes either way. most people here have positive pressure


----------



## hadesfactor

Actually most people i know that have an open case with multiple rads dont have them all as intake and most of the people i know with split designs like mine have them all exhaust...fan speed matters much more then the amount of fans in general the point i was making orig was in assumption to having them set up as exhuast to make sure your intake is higher then your exhaust maybe i said it a little convulted but thats the nuts and bokts of my statement....if u have 9 fans running as exhaust your intake needs to be higher if u want it more silent add more fans....the statement was about balance the fan/rad set up was an example of a set up that if done incoreectly can cause neg pressure


----------



## TheAbyss

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hadesfactor*
> 
> Just to add I usally have a few different intake sensors in lets say a 6" diam then take the average reading from that....primarily because temp sensors can vary it also lets my see if 1 sensors is bad etc.
> 
> @theabyss achieving less then 5C under stress tests load isn't that hard even if it seems like its low....your cooling should remain constant if it 5c at idle and your loop is done right it will be the same under load. So for me, I set my fan curve to not really start pushing air until it hit 3.5c delta then gradually goes up and I have it maxed out at 8c delta although Its never really reached that. Dont forget, your chip might hit 60+C under a stress test while you delta remains the same and your water will only go up a degree or 2 because the amount of heat/energy required to raise your coolant is a lot higher then you would think. Where I am in Arizona my ambient is 26-29 right now being the summer but my 6850k with a modest OC of 4.3 stays 40c and under during load....1080 ti doesnt usually go higher then 30c +- 2c
> 
> on another off topic...keep in mind that a custom loop will inherently cause your case to have negative pressure so depending on how many rads and the size of them you can almost set your exhaust fan to silent as possible....for me I have 2x480mm plus the 140 exhaust fan so I turn down my exhaust fan to lets say 15% and my intake to around 60% to balance out the pressure a little which will help keep you ambient more constant


Thanks a lot for the clarification, let me sketch my current built and the Status it is in, maybe that raises some additional remarks.

Modded Phanteks Luxe with 240 front intake and 420 top exaust rads. ohne 140 exhaust fan in the back.

CPU: I7 6700k (moderate OCd) on EK Supremacy Evo
GPU: 980TI SC+ with Mod Bios on Watercool Heatkiller IV
Pump:VPP655 D5
Control unit: Aquaero 6 Pro

It´s a hardtube built, finished leak testing and almost ready to set up Windows... Idle temps during leaktesting looked good in the BIOS readings, I am VERY much looking Forward to stresstest...It´s my first watercooling adventure and sof ar it cost me a lot of Money, but I learned a lot in the process and know that I will follow that route in future builds also... in Germany, we call Money that we spend during a learning curve "Lehrgeld", translates into "learning Money"... I cannot Count how many times I changed parts when I realized I Need something different in the process.


----------



## shiokarai

I'm stuck - need help!









I have an aquaero 6 LT with 2 High Flow sensors connected to it (those ones: https://shop.aquacomputer.de/product_info.php?products_id=2294 Part number 53068). First one is connected to the "flow" port, second one - to the first fan channel. Everything works as it should etc. BUT - if I want to connect another two of those sensors... (I have 2 separate loops, it's complicated







) ... is this even possible? I know it's possible to connect 4 high flow sensors with USB via aquabus "high" port + y-splitter (those: https://shop.aquacomputer.de/product_info.php?language=en&products_id=2897 part number 53129), but is is possible with this sensors without USB connection? I've tried to connect them via aquabus "high" port (as aquabus supposedly support also 3pin connection...) and they wasn't recognised at all...


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hadesfactor*
> 
> Actually most people i know that have an open case with multiple rads dont have them all as intake and most of the people i know with split designs like mine have them all exhaust...


ok obviously you know more people then this site caters to. Or the intranets where not only the general consensus is positive pressure is better, but more over, they do this...

Good on you for keeping such a active social life. (If you can't read the semi sarcasm then please note there is some )

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hadesfactor*
> 
> fan speed matters much more then the amount of fans in general the point i was making orig was in assumption to having them set up as exhuast to make sure your intake is higher then your exhaust maybe i said it a little convulted but thats the nuts and bokts of my statement....if u have 9 fans running as exhaust your intake needs to be higher if u want it more silent add more fans....the statement was about balance the fan/rad set up was an example of a set up that if done incoreectly can cause neg pressure


More fans, may not be more silent. Quantity, does not nessisarially mean pressure. It depends on the fan curve


----------



## vvv850

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shiokarai*
> 
> I'm stuck - need help!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have an aquaero 6 LT with 2 High Flow sensors connected to it (those ones: https://shop.aquacomputer.de/product_info.php?products_id=2294 Part number 53068). First one is connected to the "flow" port, second one - to the first fan channel. Everything works as it should etc. BUT - if I want to connect another two of those sensors... (I have 2 separate loops, it's complicated
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ) ... is this even possible? I know it's possible to connect 4 high flow sensors with USB via aquabus "high" port + y-splitter (those: https://shop.aquacomputer.de/product_info.php?language=en&products_id=2897 part number 53129), but is is possible with this sensors without USB connection? I've tried to connect them via aquabus "high" port (as aquabus supposedly support also 3pin connection...) and they wasn't recognised at all...


The version without USB does not have aquabus interface capabilities. It just sends impulses as the impeller rotates.

You have to get the USB version, connect it once to the USB port to change the bus address and then connect it to the aquabus interface.


----------



## shiokarai

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vvv850*
> 
> The version without USB does not have aquabus interface capabilities. It just sends impulses as the impeller rotates.
> 
> You have to get the USB version, connect it once to the USB port to change the bus address and then connect it to the aquabus interface.


Ok.. so I'm out of luck? 2 of those sensors is as much as I can connect? Otherwise I need to get usb version and connect via aquabus? What about poweradjust 3 extension?


----------



## vvv850

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shiokarai*
> 
> Ok.. so I'm out of luck? 2 of those sensors is as much as I can connect? Otherwise I need to get usb version and connect via aquabus? What about poweradjust 3 extension?


The Poweradjust 3 unit has an input for the flow sensor, yes.


----------



## hadesfactor

@megaman i still domt know where u are getting anything from any si gle post of mine that says negative pressure is good...you are making point that i litterally said the exact same thing....and i dont know a single person that has a top mounted radiator that uses it for an intake never knew anyone that mounted a radiator in the back of there case and used that as an intake and since the single most common rad mounting spot is on top especially since we all know hot air rises...i tend to use basic principles dont pull hotter air into my case if i mounted a front mounted rad i would us it as an i take but i dont....you quoted my post where i said "thats why its important to set a proper curve to avoid neg pressure" then u argue with me about how a curve is more important. All of this because somewhere u think u read in my post where i advicate neg pressure? My orig reply was to make sure he avoided neg pressure and my only mistake was assuming he was running them as exhaust. And yes i know that more fans doesnt neccesarrily mean quieter i tend to like 2 fans running i.e 800rpm then 1 running 1600.

So after all of this i still am unsure about why u are arguing with me seeing all the points u are trying to make ive said already....not trying to argue man was judt letting him know to avoid neg pressure by setting a curve where his intake was morenthanbhis exhaust lol


----------



## war4peace

Speaking of temp sensors...
Since I did not know the Aquaero comes with 4 temp sensors by default, I bought 8 more from the Aquacomputer website. Now with the Farbwerk, I can have a total of 12 temperature sensors, so I was wondering how to put them to good use.

Right now I have three main sensors already installed:

- 1 showing the liquid temperature before it enters the radiators;
- 1 showing the liquid temperature right after it exits the radiators;
- 1 ambient temperature sensor mounted very close to the 200mm Phanteks fan I have mounted at the front of the case, this measures the air temperature the 200mm fan is blowing intot he case.

I also have two more sensors installed, one is just hanging somewhere inside the case and another I have temporarily stuck between the GPU backplate and the GPU board at the area where the 8-pin power supply connectors go in.

Where else would you install temperature sensors? I'm thinking:

- 1 for each HDD (I have two HDDs) but the HDD temperatures can be obtained through software, does it make sense to use temp probes as well?
- 1 for the VRM area, but where exactly? Should I stick one beneath the VRM heatsinks?
- 1 for each SSD (I have three), does it make sense to do so?


----------



## hadesfactor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *war4peace*
> 
> Speaking of temp sensors...
> Since I did not know the Aquaero comes with 4 temp sensors by default, I bought 8 more from the Aquacomputer website. Now with the Farbwerk, I can have a total of 12 temperature sensors, so I was wondering how to put them to good use.
> 
> Right now I have three main sensors already installed:
> 
> - 1 showing the liquid temperature before it enters the radiators;
> - 1 showing the liquid temperature right after it exits the radiators;
> - 1 ambient temperature sensor mounted very close to the 200mm Phanteks fan I have mounted at the front of the case, this measures the air temperature the 200mm fan is blowing intot he case.
> 
> I also have two more sensors installed, one is just hanging somewhere inside the case and another I have temporarily stuck between the GPU backplate and the GPU board at the area where the 8-pin power supply connectors go in.
> 
> Where else would you install temperature sensors? I'm thinking:
> 
> - 1 for each HDD (I have two HDDs) but the HDD temperatures can be obtained through software, does it make sense to use temp probes as well?
> - 1 for the VRM area, but where exactly? Should I stick one beneath the VRM heatsinks?
> - 1 for each SSD (I have three), does it make sense to do so?


What mobo are you using....some higher end boards already have VRM sensors etc that can be access either by a software monitoring like hwinfo, and some can actually be read via the mobo with aquasuite. This would hold true for your gpu, cpu, ram etc. I tend to use my extra temp sensors to grab an average of my ambient but really where ever you want to actively monitor.
Just an example my Asus Deluxe II has LOTS of sensors lol and they can all be read by aquasuite without another software monitor I think not all of them without the use of hwinfo/aida but the crucial ones at least.

Youll also notice not a huge difference between your water sensors usually only between .5-1C as the temp will stabilize for all intensive purposes

As for you HDDs, me personally never saw a need to monitor unless its really in an enclosed space with no airflow and see see throttling but unless you are using m.2 I wouldn't worry about it at all, SSD temps are usually never an issue.

I wouldn't waste probes on anything that can be monitored via software IMO but its your call


----------



## war4peace

I guess I should have mentioned a few other things...









My motherboard is an Asus X99 A II. AI Suite 3 does show me VRM temperature, but that isn't captured by Open Hardware Monitor, Aquasuite or anything other than AI Suite 3. GPU Backplate temperature isn't captured by anything. RAM temperatures don't show anywhere. HDDs run pretty hot, when idle one is at 53 degrees and the other is at 57 degrees Celsius. They're in a secluded area in my Thermaltake Core X5, in the cage above the power supply, really far from any fan. My M.2 SSD (Patriot Hellfore 240 GB) temperature is only displayed in its own proprietary software.

So I guess GPU Backplate, VRMs, M.2 SSD temperatures require temperature sensor probes. Mind you, this is just for data gathering purposes, and because I have plenty sensor probes laying around









Unrelated: Those HDD temperatures make me think about getting a NAS...


----------



## hadesfactor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *war4peace*
> 
> I guess I should have mentioned a few other things...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My motherboard is an Asus X99 A II. AI Suite 3 does show me VRM temperature, but that isn't captured by Open Hardware Monitor, Aquasuite or anything other than AI Suite 3. GPU Backplate temperature isn't captured by anything. RAM temperatures don't show anywhere. HDDs run pretty hot, when idle one is at 53 degrees and the other is at 57 degrees Celsius. They're in a secluded area in my Thermaltake Core X5, in the cage above the power supply, really far from any fan. My M.2 SSD (Patriot Hellfore 240 GB) temperature is only displayed in its own proprietary software.
> 
> So I guess GPU Backplate, VRMs, M.2 SSD temperatures require temperature sensor probes. Mind you, this is just for data gathering purposes, and because I have plenty sensor probes laying around
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Unrelated: Those HDD temperatures make me think about getting a NAS...


Thats really weird..... If the are showing in AI Suite then they exist....all except backplate of the GPU unless the board maker has one installed...if Hardware Mon isn't showing them download HWInfo64 its free and better IMO it should show all of your sensors that your board has

And yeah NAS are the way to go for storage if you got the room even a small one


----------



## war4peace

Temperatures sensors might exist but the hardware maker might not have opened them up for third party API calls. I've seen this in the past more then once.
The point is I want them displayed in Aquasuite for reporting purposes as well as having all data in one place. The fact that third party or vendor software can display the data is useless to me if I can't get them into Aquasuite.


----------



## hadesfactor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *war4peace*
> 
> Temperatures sensors might exist but the hardware maker might not have opened them up for third party API calls. I've seen this in the past more then once.
> The point is I want them displayed in Aquasuite for reporting purposes as well as having all data in one place. The fact that third party or vendor software can display the data is useless to me if I can't get them into Aquasuite.


Yes I get that but what I am saying is I currently use an iteration of your board which HWinfo as well as Aida reports....why dont you try downloading HWinfo and giving it a shot....the worst case scenario is you are in the same spot. It could just be hardware monitor doesn't report for the Asus boards. Also, Asus uses a set of sensors that cause high utilization it could be hardware mon disables these to reduce overhead....Im not saying you're wrong im saying what does it hurt to download a free software to see if its the software

When I get home tonight Ill test hardware monitor on my board as well, I am curious to see if ill have the same issue. I've never scene Asus hold back their API's for sensors on their higher end boards,

Also, what version of hardware monitor are you using, I know up until recently they didn't have support for all of the Nuvoton chipsets which is what Asus uses also maybe post in the Asus X99 thread....like I said I've never heard of the x99 boards not reporting the sensors


----------



## hadesfactor

I would suggest that your Nuvoton might be bad but its reporting in AI Suite so im guessing it might not be reporting correctly...it really shouldnt have to do with API's either...Asus uses their custom APi's to pull info from the Nuvoton but many board makers use that chip and thats what the software pulls from...I could be wrong though but thats how I am to understand it


----------



## war4peace

HWInfo did the trick indeed, it shows the ASUS EC information, which is separate from the Nuvoton data.
Thank you for your help!


----------



## hadesfactor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *war4peace*
> 
> HWInfo did the trick indeed, it shows the ASUS EC information, which is separate from the Nuvoton data.
> Thank you for your help!


Awesome







so glad it worked buddy!!


----------



## GTXJackBauer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hadesfactor*
> 
> Just to add I usally have a few different intake sensors in lets say a 6" diam then take the average reading from that....primarily because temp sensors can vary it also lets my see if 1 sensors is bad etc.


Been doing that since day one, hence why I use 3 air temp sensors, two in the top and one in the front which I'm probably going to add another eventually. All of this is in a 900D as well.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hadesfactor*
> 
> *What you are missing is you only actually need 1 intake to provide the air necessary to produce positive pressure even in a case with multiple rads* do to the fact you will never push the same amount of air through an obstruct as you would with no obstruction...that being said my case has 3 intakes lol. the temp of air is the temp of air period...energy, in our case heat, makes it hotter. *The temps of my air intake is the same as my temp outside the case*...it might feel cooler coming from a fan but its the same temp *trust me*. That being said it is a small difference in temp but I rather push hot air from my system then pull hotter air into my system. In a water cooled PC where the heat exchange happens at the blocks and not through a heat-sink and fan set up your PC ambient should be within a degree or 2 of your outside case ambient in good positive flow or neutral flow your temp should be pretty much the same.


That isn't necessarily the case for everyone because not everyone has a 900D. You have a massive unfiltered rear with a single intake fan feeding the rest of your rads in your case. I would never recommend that to anyone with any case, let alone one with a 900D since that would create negative pressure in most cases. The consensus is bottom and front intake, top and rear as exhaust unless you have a filtered intake at the top. Also most don't like getting smacked by warm to hot air. The 900D was rightfully designed so the bottom, front and top are filtered intakes, leaving you with a massive unfiltered rear with a single fan for exhaust. Sure you could do it your way but you're just dusting up your case unless you're in a dustless laboratory in a white suit and some of your rads are fighting with the filter to exhaust. Point is, you're over thinking the concepts and principles and missing the point to a main thing with most, we don't like our components getting caked with dust. Dust than traps the heat on your components and a pain to remove if not dealt with. I have to dust out my filters every few months and call it a day. Love it.

You believe that your slightly warmer internal case air soon to be consumed by your rads is the same as the fresh batch of air externally? Interesting.....

With all due respect, you're trying to preach to the choir but you're all over the place. Slow down, read some more and watch an learn.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hadesfactor*
> 
> Also, if you read my post I posted that to prevent negative pressure as I said it was bad as no one who knows what they are talking about can say neg pressure in a PC is good as it will balance itself out by sucking in air from all of the crevices so that whole bottom portion of you post Im not sure who it was directed to because I think we are all on the same page here.


No idea what you're trying to say but we'll leave it at that.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hadesfactor*
> 
> *Remember guys* unless you are using *phase change your water temps will not get cooler then ambient* and with a well designed case the ambient in your case will be the same as outside your case....pulling air from my case that is the same temp as outside my case imo is better then pulling air from outside my case through my rad which has a high temp.....


Says who?! You?! You obviously don't know what you're talking about. You're either trolling this thread or really misinformed.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hadesfactor*
> 
> @megaman i still domt know where u are getting anything from any si gle post of mine that says negative pressure is good...you are making point that i litterally said the exact same thing....and i dont know a single person that has a top mounted radiator that uses it for an intake


I use my top rad as intake versus your exhaust to a filter which won't help your situation. You're basically circulating exhausted air up top.


----------



## hadesfactor

@GTXJackBauer

My back of the case isn't open at all I mounted plates in the back to prevent this.

Hot air rises which is why it makes more sense to exhaust from the top of your case and exhaust out the back for obvious reasons as well.

My posts were in reply to comments made that I was saying negative pressure was good that was in rebuttal to that fact

misinformed about the fact our water temp will never be cooler then your ambient air? are you really serious right now? how can you make your water cooler then the medium you are using to cool unless as I said you are using a chiller or phase change. Sorry buddy but it's not physically possible if you know anything about physics or heat exchange...Just google it...just like you cant chill a glass of water colder then the ice cube in it....I would love to be proved wrong here

Yes my temps inside my case vary by maybe .5c then the outside of my case because of how I have my intake fans set.

If you read I posted it was my mistake assuming the rad set-ups so once again you are replying to a post just to make noise as all of this was already talked about. now who is trolling.

The way I set-up my cooling is done through my 20+ years experience in the Data Center industry just because Im newer to the forum doesnt mean im not knowledgeable that being said I dont claim to know everything in fact I ask plenty of questions for things I dont know.

Im really confused on how you think Im circulating exhausted air through my top rad unless im not understanding what you are saying. My intake fans bring in my fresh air and go through my rads....and as I said before its usually the same temp as my outside ambient air with sometimes varying maybe .5c if that.

My logic is from working with enterprise class servers...you dont wanna pull hotter air into your PC and when you pull the air through your rad the heat exchanges from your rad to the air...that what removes the heat and now the hotter air is inside your case....once again since I have to repeat....I know this is negligible but once again as I stated my reasoning for doing it is my ocd need to do so.

Sorry I didn't just quote but the post is long enough


----------



## GTXJackBauer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hadesfactor*
> 
> @GTXJackBauer
> 
> Hot air rises which is why it makes more sense to exhaust from the top of your case and exhaust out the back for obvious reasons as well.


It won't rise in a case with constant air flow!

Alright man, I give up.


----------



## hadesfactor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GTXJackBauer*
> 
> It won't rise in a case with constant air flow!
> 
> Alright man, I give up.


You are pulling air from outside to inside via the top correct in that's what you are talking about? Hot air in general rises which means the air around your case you PSU expels heat which rises for example or the radiant heat from your case....you are asking why I dont PULL air into my TOP rad and that is why, I think we are both confusing the issues here....let's just stop arguing no point really if we have different ways we have different ways...I approach mine from a different view point


----------



## Mega Man

ill break this up
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hadesfactor*
> 
> @megaman i still domt know where u are getting anything from any si gle post of mine that says negative pressure is good...


i never said you did, and i dont know why you seem to be taking this personal. it isnt. i dont include personal comments. i speak fact. and i am excessively blunt, the correction is that " most people " when it isnt, great i am glad you know people who imo ( again MY OPINION ) do it wrong but there are people who use the search, and if not corrected they will assume as well. - again nothing personal. i am trying to help the next guy- that said there is some falsehoods in the following
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hadesfactor*
> 
> you are making point that i litterally said the exact same thing....and i dont know a single person that has a top mounted radiator that uses it for an intake never knew anyone that mounted a radiator in the back of there case and used that as an intake and since the single most common rad mounting spot is on top


now you know 2, i do with all my builds, generally i have 1 exhaust fan! and many of my builds use more fans then you ( my th10 had 50 ( right now down for cleaning and will be swapped to freenas/pfsense duty ) and my m8 which iirc has 40 _I have 2 in my ped as well.- but a total of 12 intake in the same ped ..._ ).

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hadesfactor*
> 
> especially since we all know hot air rises...


i hate this myth. unless you are running a 100% passive build heat DOES NOT rise in your pc. ill say that again. heat DOES NOT rise in your build. IF IT DOES you are doing it wrong

A properly balanced system will not have dead spots

heat goes where "you" want it. it can not overcome a fan. overlooking the fact that heat does not rise ( fluid or in this case gas- becomes more buoyant and less dense and is replaced by more dense and less buoyant liquid or gases.... while cutting hairs this is an important fact just like you dont cool something, you remove heat *from* it- as heat moves from hot to cold not cold moving from cold to hot )

as far as outside air, well by the time it gets to the top of your case... it should of already mixed with the ambient - ie no big difference
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hadesfactor*
> 
> i tend to use basic principles dont pull hotter air into my case if i mounted a front mounted rad i would us it as an i take but i dont....you quoted my post where i said "thats why its important to set a proper curve to avoid neg pressure" then u argue with me about how a curve is more important. All of this because somewhere u think u read in my post where i advicate neg pressure? My orig reply was to make sure he avoided neg pressure and my only mistake was assuming he was running them as exhaust. And yes i know that more fans doesnt neccesarrily mean quieter i tend to like 2 fans running i.e 800rpm then 1 running 1600.


First all fans are not the same.

Not everyone uses all the same fans in there build.

Second 800rpm fans Do not necessarily ( and far more often then not ) mean a fan are 1600 will move double the amount of air. It may move more or less. ( hint pq curve )

More over puting 1 fan in and 1 fan out does not mean you remove the same as you put in they generally can add in power ( ignoring restriction ) think of serial pumps while not a perfect example, a good one. The first pump pumps, and the second *increases* ( as in addition ) head pressure...

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hadesfactor*
> 
> So after all of this i still am unsure about why u are arguing with me seeing all the points u are trying to make ive said already....not trying to argue man was judt letting him know to avoid neg pressure by setting a curve where his intake was morenthanbhis exhaust lol


Yes, but riddled with false info. As discussed above

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *war4peace*
> 
> I guess I should have mentioned a few other things...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My motherboard is an Asus X99 A II. AI Suite 3 does show me VRM temperature, but that isn't captured by Open Hardware Monitor, Aquasuite or anything other than AI Suite 3. GPU Backplate temperature isn't captured by anything. RAM temperatures don't show anywhere. HDDs run pretty hot, when idle one is at 53 degrees and the other is at 57 degrees Celsius. They're in a secluded area in my Thermaltake Core X5, in the cage above the power supply, really far from any fan. My M.2 SSD (Patriot Hellfore 240 GB) temperature is only displayed in its own proprietary software.
> 
> So I guess GPU Backplate, VRMs, M.2 SSD temperatures require temperature sensor probes. Mind you, this is just for data gathering purposes, and because I have plenty sensor probes laying around
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Unrelated: Those HDD temperatures make me think about getting a NAS...


yea, those hdd temps, very no good !
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GTXJackBauer*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *hadesfactor*
> 
> *Remember guys* unless you are using *phase change your water temps will not get cooler then ambient* and with a well designed case the ambient in your case will be the same as outside your case....pulling air from my case that is the same temp as outside my case imo is better then pulling air from outside my case through my rad which has a high temp.....
> 
> 
> 
> Says who?! You?! You obviously don't know what you're talking about. You're either trolling this thread or really misinformed.
Click to expand...

while i agree with most of what you are saying fyi he is mostly correct. without phase change ( *or other extreme cooling - dice- geothermal ect* )your water temps can not be below ambient
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hadesfactor*
> 
> @GTXJackBauer
> 
> My back of the case isn't open at all I mounted plates in the back to prevent this.


ok, good on you, so you are only pushing air from bottom to top ( really you dont need to answer this - continued below )
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hadesfactor*
> 
> Hot air rises which is why it makes more sense to exhaust from the top of your case and exhaust out the back for obvious reasons as well. My posts were in reply to comments made that I was saying negative pressure was good that was in rebuttal to that fact
> 
> misinformed about the fact our water temp will never be cooler then your ambient air? are you really serious right now? how can you make your water cooler then the medium you are using to cool unless as I said you are using a chiller or phase change. Sorry buddy but it's not physically possible if you know anything about physics or heat exchange...Just google it...just like you cant chill a glass of water colder then the ice cube in it....I would love to be proved wrong here
> 
> Yes my temps inside my case vary by maybe .5c then the outside of my case because of how I have my intake fans set.
> 
> If you read I posted it was my mistake assuming the rad set-ups so once again you are replying to a post just to make noise as all of this was already talked about. now who is trolling.


already commented
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hadesfactor*
> 
> The way I set-up my cooling is done through my 20+ years experience in the Data Center industry just because Im newer to the forum doesnt mean im not knowledgeable that being said I dont claim to know everything in fact I ask plenty of questions for things I dont know.


ok, congrats ?

just because you were doing it this way for 20 years, does not mean you didnt do it the WRONG way 20 years. also. " enterprise equipment " in a data center 90% of the time air flows one way- front to back which brings me back to you are only doing bottom to top right? you do know how hard it is to get air to change directions, it does not like to. now if you are doing bottom to top well your motherboard and gpu is in the wrong direction for this, which unlike " enterprise equipment " which is set up for front to back.

now sorry if this hurts but sometimes the truth does, anytime anyone has to validate themselves with " i have been doing this for xx years ", why is it i find that their advice is usually poor on the subject.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hadesfactor*
> 
> Im really confused on how you think Im circulating exhausted air through my top rad unless im not understanding what you are saying. My intake fans bring in my fresh air and go through my rads....and as I said before its usually the same temp as my outside ambient air with sometimes varying maybe .5c if that.
> 
> My logic is from working with enterprise class servers...you dont wanna pull hotter air into your PC and when you pull the air through your rad the heat exchanges from your rad to the air...that what removes the heat and now the hotter air is inside your case....once again since I have to repeat....I know this is negligible but once again as I stated my reasoning for doing it is my ocd need to do so.
> 
> Sorry I didn't just quote but the post is long enough


again already covered.

i dont have a problem if you post to be helpful, but now you are starting to give out poor advice.

also in data centers you have hot and cold isles which now they are going as far as to put separators in between. 

and the REALLY cool stuff does not even do that.... it does this 

they need hot and cold isles because they have far more equip. and enough to make hot and cold isles, do you?, if not, looks to me like oyu are comparing apples to elephants ?
if you have not noticed, i am the guy -you- have to call when 20 year datacenter veterans over fill their cooling capacity and have no redundancy because- hey we can fit more !

please note i will be editing the above grammar, and i will be editing below this as there have been some questions i need to answer to help people
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shiokarai*
> 
> I'm stuck - need help!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have an aquaero 6 LT with 2 High Flow sensors connected to it (those ones: https://shop.aquacomputer.de/product_info.php?products_id=2294 Part number 53068). First one is connected to the "flow" port, second one - to the first fan channel. Everything works as it should etc. BUT - if I want to connect another two of those sensors... (I have 2 separate loops, it's complicated
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ) ... is this even possible? I know it's possible to connect 4 high flow sensors with USB via aquabus "high" port + y-splitter (those: https://shop.aquacomputer.de/product_info.php?language=en&products_id=2897 part number 53129), but is is possible with this sensors without USB connection? I've tried to connect them via aquabus "high" port (as aquabus supposedly support also 3pin connection...) and they wasn't recognised at all...


one option is to use a flow sensor that can connect to your mobo fan hubs and use them only for monitoring, or as mentioned the power adj or the usb versions .

for future ref DO NOT connect anything you think might work. make sure it will !!!! the aquaero has very few safeties for user error. it depends on you for proper connections. many have hooked up ( myself included ) something to the wrong port and fried an aquaero !!!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vvv850*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *shiokarai*
> 
> Ok.. so I'm out of luck? 2 of those sensors is as much as I can connect? Otherwise I need to get usb version and connect via aquabus? What about poweradjust 3 extension?
> 
> 
> 
> The Poweradjust 3 unit has an input for the flow sensor, yes.
Click to expand...

while an option. imo you would probably be better served running 2 independent aquaeros ( esp a LT cost wise ) for your loops
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *war4peace*
> 
> Speaking of temp sensors...
> Since I did not know the Aquaero comes with 4 temp sensors by default, I bought 8 more from the Aquacomputer website. Now with the Farbwerk, I can have a total of 12 temperature sensors, so I was wondering how to put them to good use.
> 
> Right now I have three main sensors already installed:
> 
> - 1 showing the liquid temperature before it enters the radiators;
> - 1 showing the liquid temperature right after it exits the radiators;
> - 1 ambient temperature sensor mounted very close to the 200mm Phanteks fan I have mounted at the front of the case, this measures the air temperature the 200mm fan is blowing intot he case.
> 
> I also have two more sensors installed, one is just hanging somewhere inside the case and another I have temporarily stuck between the GPU backplate and the GPU board at the area where the 8-pin power supply connectors go in.
> 
> Where else would you install temperature sensors? I'm thinking:
> 
> - 1 for each HDD (I have two HDDs) but the HDD temperatures can be obtained through software, does it make sense to use temp probes as well?
> - 1 for the VRM area, but where exactly? Should I stick one beneath the VRM heatsinks?
> - 1 for each SSD (I have three), does it make sense to do so?


HDDs with some foil tape definitely !!

put a fan there if you can !

the rest?? i would look into at least 1 or 2 water temps sensors !
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hadesfactor*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *war4peace*
> 
> Speaking of temp sensors...
> Since I did not know the Aquaero comes with 4 temp sensors by default, I bought 8 more from the Aquacomputer website. Now with the Farbwerk, I can have a total of 12 temperature sensors, so I was wondering how to put them to good use.
> 
> Right now I have three main sensors already installed:
> 
> - 1 showing the liquid temperature before it enters the radiators;
> - 1 showing the liquid temperature right after it exits the radiators;
> - 1 ambient temperature sensor mounted very close to the 200mm Phanteks fan I have mounted at the front of the case, this measures the air temperature the 200mm fan is blowing intot he case.
> 
> I also have two more sensors installed, one is just hanging somewhere inside the case and another I have temporarily stuck between the GPU backplate and the GPU board at the area where the 8-pin power supply connectors go in.
> 
> Where else would you install temperature sensors? I'm thinking:
> 
> - 1 for each HDD (I have two HDDs) but the HDD temperatures can be obtained through software, does it make sense to use temp probes as well?
> - 1 for the VRM area, but where exactly? Should I stick one beneath the VRM heatsinks?
> - 1 for each SSD (I have three), does it make sense to do so?
> 
> 
> 
> What mobo are you using....some higher end boards already have VRM sensors etc that can be access either by a software monitoring like hwinfo, and some can actually be read via the mobo with aquasuite. This would hold true for your gpu, cpu, ram etc. I tend to use my extra temp sensors to grab an average of my ambient but really where ever you want to actively monitor.
> Just an example my Asus Deluxe II has LOTS of sensors lol and they can all be read by aquasuite without another software monitor I think not all of them without the use of hwinfo/aida but the crucial ones at least.
> 
> Youll also notice not a huge difference between your water sensors usually only between .5-1C as the temp will stabilize for all intensive purposes
> 
> As for you HDDs, me personally never saw a need to monitor unless its really in an enclosed space with no airflow and see see throttling but unless you are using m.2 I wouldn't worry about it at all, SSD temps are usually never an issue.
> 
> I wouldn't waste probes on anything that can be monitored via software IMO but its your call
Click to expand...

which definitely doable *and i do it*. one thing to remember is that you wont load these untill after windows loads, and if you use a software sensor, you can only use a max of 8 !!! lastly if you control anything with these they can be highly unreliable so make sure to set up the fallback temp and times !!

personally i can only recommend doing this ( software temps ) to monitor not to control !
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *war4peace*
> 
> HWInfo did the trick indeed, it shows the ASUS EC information, which is separate from the Nuvoton data.
> Thank you for your help!


just for future notice, IMO and mnay others, openhardwaremonitor is junk. many issues ect .... however ec sensor monitoring will generally have a performance hit, but minor...


----------



## GTXJackBauer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> while i agree with most of what you are saying fyi he is mostly correct. without phase change ( or other extreme cooling - dice- geothermal ect )your water temps can not be below ambient


You're right. I misread that because it was poorly written. A comma would have stopped me dead on my tracks. I took it as him saying phase change wouldn't be sub-ambient.


----------



## hadesfactor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GTXJackBauer*
> 
> You're right. I misread that because it was poorly written. A comma would have stopped me dead on my tracks. I took it as him saying phase change wouldn't be sub-ambient.


Nice try but you made sure to highlight and quote the post and instead,you dig about it being poorly written. If that was truly the case you wouldve said it after I replied to it. I guess you just missed the unless. Hey if im wrong Im wrong its always the way ive done it and the people around me, and have never had an issue with my temps, but if the way I have my builds set up are wrong, then I will switch it up on the next one and see if if it makes a difference in my case. As of now my cpu loop doesnt break 4.5 delta under stress and my gpu barely breaks 2.5 under stress so I never doubted my methods
@megaman its a shame to a degree you run into engineers who can't do their job but it is job security for you....im not just a rack and stack guy btw Im the guy that tells the techs how many of what assets can go and where depending on the rpp load coming into the rack and the total heat being dissipated, and devolop policies and procedures for them. What I usually run into an issue with is when I tell them to order back to front and i get front to back or when some of the legacy equip has side to back in a high density rack. I usually make sure we have enough head room by always using the max in the calculations that way if its imperitive to add to a cluster, an asset can be added. Its standard in our colo tonhave redundency for cooling as its part of our contract with the colo as they provide the cooling. There are only maybe 3 colos in this state with the newer cooling system but diverters are a must as well as covers for the empty ru's


----------



## Costas

'Ye olde' _Hot Air Rises_ dilemma.

When applied to our typical builds, with the amount of forced airflow we have at our disposal the 'hot air rises' situation is really a non event.

Sure, for a non water cooled system that may additionally rely on convection currents to aid in cooling, then yes hot air does rise....









SMA 8 - 3x rads, 24x *INTAKE* fans (Push/Pull setup), no exhaust fans

PC always quiet as a mouse.....

Heavy load delta temps always less than 5 deg C with fans running between 500 and 800rpm.

Am I doing something wrong here...


----------



## TheAbyss

@war4peace, Hadesfactor, Mega,

thanks for the good discussion on temp sensor Placements, that helped me a lot. The whole intake/exhaust discussion alarms me a bit though. I wanted to go "into production" after leaktest with my new rig TODAY... given that my config is front intake 2x120mm Rad, top exhaust 3x140 rad, 1x140mm rear exhaust (fan only) makes me think about turning the top into intake also, coming to the front to back config Megaman was refereing to... But I actually do not think it will be a big difference from my initial plan.

Any thoughts on that? Maybe you manage to reply before I flood the System given the Germany / US time difference...


----------



## Mega Man

I can tell you I would use it as intake, but it is not needed

I reccomend positive pressure. If you have it, then leave it. But i hate cleaning


----------



## TheAbyss

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> I can tell you I would use it as intake, but it is not needed
> 
> I reccomend positive pressure. If you have it, then leave it. But i hate cleaning


Thanks for the quick reply.. putting them to Intake would make me Change fans, as the eloops don´t like pull config when too Close to a rad or other obstacles... I guess I´ll leave it for the time being.


----------



## TheParisHeaton

Hello,
Why I cannot regulate my pump?

Aquaero 6XT + aquabus D5 in highflow connector. Without usb plug. Thanks.

http://i.imgur.com/mPkZsWv.png


----------



## war4peace

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheAbyss*
> 
> @war4peace, Hadesfactor, Mega,
> 
> thanks for the good discussion on temp sensor Placements, that helped me a lot. The whole intake/exhaust discussion alarms me a bit though. I wanted to go "into production" after leaktest with my new rig TODAY... given that my config is front intake 2x120mm Rad, top exhaust 3x140 rad, 1x140mm rear exhaust (fan only) makes me think about turning the top into intake also, coming to the front to back config Megaman was refereing to... But I actually do not think it will be a big difference from my initial plan.
> 
> Any thoughts on that? Maybe you manage to reply before I flood the System given the Germany / US time difference...


I live in Romania ?

The whole positive and negative pressure discussion boils down to dust and nothing more. Performance difference is negligible, there are other factors which have a much greater impact on water temperatures.
Also it depends heavily on case type.

For example my Thermaltake Core X5 is like a sieve by design and dust will eventually find its way in despite its rather simplistic filters. I have two 360 radiators located on the top of the case and tgey push air out through the top. I have another 200mm fan at tge front pushing ambient air in. That actually is the only fan which pushes air in. The fans on the top are 2x Genthe Typhoons at 800 RPM and 3x Noctua NF-F12 pwm regulated.
Performance is very good with a set point controller aimed at 35 degrees liquid temperature. During idle the system is dead quiet. During heavy gaming and rendering the Noctua fans reach about 1000 RPM which is very little noise.
Yes, a bit of dust might accumulate over a period of 6 months or more of 24/7 uptime but given the fact I tinker with my build more often than that I couldn't care less about the dust.

Fact of the matter is I plan on changing my tubing to copper come fall (September or October) so dust doesn't even have time to accumulate.

It is best practice to change liquid every 12 months anyway so unless you live in a very dusty area you don't have to go the extra mile to keep it out. Mind you, that is just my opinion based on my priorities so your mileage may vary. Others who would disagree with me are also right based on their priorities.


----------



## Captain4W

For anyone who needs it, I ordered the parts to do the Diva Mod on my pumps and it was cheeper to order a ton of parts rather than 2, so I have lots or extra "kits". First come first serve, PM me and I'll shoot you the parts FREE (I'll even cover the shipping within reason)
I have enough for 53 sets









Here's what you will get
1 x 2.2K Ohm 1/4W 5% Carbon Film Resistor
1 x 5.1V 1W Zener Diode
1 x 560 Ohm 1/2W 1% Metal Film Resistor


----------



## Krazy Kanuck

Hello Aquaero-ites?

I'm in the final stages of my first WC build and I was wondering a few things. I'm not sure there is much I can do to fix them now, but in the spirit of learning from my mistakes I have a few questions I would like to ask.

System details:

My loop is far from simple, spans 6 feet by 4ft horizontally and ranges +/- 6 inches vertically from center regularly. To add to that I am using two 360 rads, and two 480s (14 gentle typhoon fans @ 1400 rpm), two full motherboard blocks, and three full gpu blocks. I also have four reservoirs which for the most part are there to look pretty. I'm using a pair of AC D5 pumps in a Bitspower dual top. I have an AC flow meter about mid way through my loop.

There is probably a LOT of restriction involved here. I'm in the process of prepping the loop and have an Aquaero 6 hooked up to the D5s and and AC high flow meter. No aquasuite as of yet and the pumps were unboxed and just plugged in, no address assigning, etc. My current flow rate appears to be 120-122 lph (32 gph). Not sure if the AC flow meter needs to be calibrated as its plugged into the aquaero,

Like many people I asked around when trying to put a parts list together and the consensus was two D5 pumps would be enough. I'm not saying they aren't but I'm not sure that 120 lph is what I was expecting. There are a lot of 90 degree bends in this build, it is hard to avoid that and I'm ok with it. I guess my question here is if I were to do this again, is there a better pump / pump top combination I could have gone with? Is 120 lph too low?

Also these Bitspower reservoirs have these little silver "faucets" for lack of a better term on the inlets that divide the flow three ways to create turbulence or something. Would taking these out help / hinder?

I've already learned that I should not place my pumps between reservoirs, that was a painful mistake as I drilled holes and mounted everything before learning it. I appreciate any help, sage advice, criticism, etc. I hope in a year or two I will be able to tear this build down and start over with a little bit more experience under my belt to make it better.


----------



## Master Chicken

Wow, that's a pretty big first loop.







That's so much block and rad that I'm wondering where you're flow will end up even with the dual serial D5's. Are the GPU blocks being run parallel or serial ... parallel will help the flow obviously. Radiators can obviously have vastly different drops based on size and construction. Did you happen to go through and try to tally up your PSI drops across all of your items based on 1GPM? I know you can get the rad info off of that large Extreme Rigs review.

You might be able to get to 1GPM with that setup with a pair of D5 Strongs in serial but probably not at 12V. Or an RD-30, but again, not at 12V.

Hopefully someone more qualified with a MAGNUM loop will come along and advise.


----------



## war4peace

Maybe this is not the proper thread but it's the only Aquacomputer-related I could find with a quick search... Apologies in advance for the offtopic if that's the case.

I have recently bought a Farbwerk and the device itself is great... however I also bought a 100mm IP67 RGB LED strip and 4x Connector for RGB LED strips, black, 70 cm. The connectors suck, plain and simple. I wasn't able to have them make full contact (and maintain that contact) with the LED strip for the life of me. if I press really hard on the connector it sometimes makes full contact and the colors are right, but as soon as I ease the pressure or let go completely, all sorts of things happen, there will be at least one color component which doesn't make contact anymore.
That stuff is unusable. I now am looking at a Farbwerk I can't connect the strips to, 4 connectors I can't use and a LED strip I can't light up properly.
Can anyone point me to some _known to be working_ LED strips and connectors from third parties which are compatible with the Farbwerk? I'd love to link it up with the Aquaero and use LED strips to generate colors based on temperatures and fan speeds.

Another question I have is related to the Airplex Radical copper radiators, namely airplex radical 2/420, copper fins and airplex radical 4/420, copper fins. Nowhere on their webshop could I find info on the fin density - which is really important because my next project involves copper tubing, some heavy case modding and low air pressure fans. I did find the info on third party websites (e.g. here) but designs can change over time so maybe the fin density changed? Also I'd like to know how easy would it be to remove the stainless steel side panels (either for repainting or for good, haven't decided yet).
Looking at the review from Xtremesystems, the performance of that radiator is disappointing, so please excuse me for asking, but are there any other full copper radiator suppliers out there?


----------



## lovan6

Quote:


> I have recently bought a Farbwerk and the device itself is great... however I also bought a 100mm IP67 RGB LED strip and 4x Connector for RGB LED strips, black, 70 cm. The connectors suck, plain and simple. I wasn't able to have them make full contact (and maintain that contact) with the LED strip for the life of me. if I press really hard on the connector it sometimes makes full contact and the colors are right, but as soon as I ease the pressure or let go completely, all sorts of things happen, there will be at least one color component which doesn't make contact anymore.
> That stuff is unusable. I now am looking at a Farbwerk I can't connect the strips to, 4 connectors I can't use and a LED strip I can't light up properly.
> Can anyone point me to some known to be working LED strips and connectors from third parties which are compatible with the Farbwerk? I'd love to link it up with the Aquaero and use LED strips to generate colors based on temperatures and fan speeds.


The Aquaero IP67 RGB LED is the best I have used so far compared what you buy from other vendors.

Just solder the connection.


----------



## Krazy Kanuck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Master Chicken*
> 
> Wow, that's a pretty big first loop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That's so much block and rad that I'm wondering where you're flow will end up even with the dual serial D5's. Are the GPU blocks being run parallel or serial ... parallel will help the flow obviously. Radiators can obviously have vastly different drops based on size and construction. Did you happen to go through and try to tally up your PSI drops across all of your items based on 1GPM? I know you can get the rad info off of that large Extreme Rigs review.
> 
> You might be able to get to 1GPM with that setup with a pair of D5 Strongs in serial but probably not at 12V. Or an RD-30, but again, not at 12V.
> 
> Hopefully someone more qualified with a MAGNUM loop will come along and advise.


Thanks for the reply, yeah I bit off a lot on this attempt, but I had a large canvas to play with so go big or go home I guess. I had at one point planned to try two separate loops (one for each PC) but I ran out of space for PSUs. The rads I bought are thick and low resistance. My goal was a super quiet system that could run 24/7 without disturbing our home office yet have enough overhead that I could ramp things up at night for gaming. As it stands everything is in series or serial; I guess I was thinking if I tried to run the GPUs in parallel it would just pass over one, really not sure how that works.

As for PSI, I'm not sure where to start with that, I read through the review for the rads I have, the 360s are lists as being 0.18 @ 1 GPM (0.06 @ 0.05 GPM) I would guess the 480s would be similar. Here what the reviewer had to say about them.
Quote:


> The restriction level was extremely low so installing multiple RX360 V3's in a loop will not be an issue on flow rates.


The full mb blocks are custom, or at least not mainstream, so finding PSI details would probably involve me testing them myself. I will do some research on the pumps you mentioned tonight.


----------



## war4peace

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lovan6*
> 
> The Aquaero IP67 RGB LED is the best I have used so far compared what you buy from other vendors.
> 
> Just solder the connection.


I never complained about the LED Strip itself, but the connectors which are horrible.
"Just solder the connection" doesn't fix the connector's poor quality, although it might be a valid workaround. However, I'd have liked to experiment first with various LED Strip sizes, and soldering the connection prevents me from easily doing so.


----------



## GTXJackBauer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Krazy Kanuck*
> 
> Hello Aquaero-ites?
> 
> I'm in the final stages of my first WC build and I was wondering a few things. I'm not sure there is much I can do to fix them now, but in the spirit of learning from my mistakes I have a few questions I would like to ask.
> 
> System details:
> 
> My loop is far from simple, spans 6 feet by 4ft horizontally and ranges +/- 6 inches vertically from center regularly. To add to that I am using two 360 rads, and two 480s (14 gentle typhoon fans @ 1400 rpm), two full motherboard blocks, and three full gpu blocks. I also have four reservoirs which for the most part are there to look pretty. I'm using a pair of AC D5 pumps in a Bitspower dual top. I have an AC flow meter about mid way through my loop.
> 
> There is probably a LOT of restriction involved here. I'm in the process of prepping the loop and have an Aquaero 6 hooked up to the D5s and and AC high flow meter. No aquasuite as of yet and the pumps were unboxed and just plugged in, no address assigning, etc. My current flow rate appears to be 120-122 lph (32 gph). Not sure if the AC flow meter needs to be calibrated as its plugged into the aquaero,
> 
> Like many people I asked around when trying to put a parts list together and the consensus was two D5 pumps would be enough. I'm not saying they aren't but I'm not sure that 120 lph is what I was expecting. There are a lot of 90 degree bends in this build, it is hard to avoid that and I'm ok with it. I guess my question here is if I were to do this again, is there a better pump / pump top combination I could have gone with? Is 120 lph too low?
> 
> Also these Bitspower reservoirs have these little silver "faucets" for lack of a better term on the inlets that divide the flow three ways to create turbulence or something. Would taking these out help / hinder?
> 
> I've already learned that I should not place my pumps between reservoirs, that was a painful mistake as I drilled holes and mounted everything before learning it. I appreciate any help, sage advice, criticism, etc. I hope in a year or two I will be able to tear this build down and start over with a little bit more experience under my belt to make it better.


I'm not sure if the pumps by default run @ 100% as some due but not sure with the AC's D5s.

Which pumps are you using? Are they the usb/aquabus versions? If so, you will need to set up unique ID's for each of them. IF they are varios, put both dials to 4 or 5, as long as they're not sucking in air and than you can figure out where your sweet spot is via flow meter.

Which flow meter did you grab? AC has several flow meters that need calibration and others that don't.


----------



## lovan6

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *war4peace*
> 
> I never complained about the LED Strip itself, but the connectors which are horrible.
> "Just solder the connection" doesn't fix the connector's poor quality, although it might be a valid workaround. However, I'd have liked to experiment first with various LED Strip sizes, and soldering the connection prevents me from easily doing so.


Good luck.


----------



## Master Chicken

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Krazy Kanuck*
> 
> Thanks for the reply, yeah I bit off a lot on this attempt, but I had a large canvas to play with so go big or go home I guess. I had at one point planned to try two separate loops (one for each PC) but I ran out of space for PSUs. The rads I bought are thick and low resistance. My goal was a super quiet system that could run 24/7 without disturbing our home office yet have enough overhead that I could ramp things up at night for gaming. As it stands everything is in series or serial; I guess I was thinking if I tried to run the GPUs in parallel it would just pass over one, really not sure how that works.
> 
> As for PSI, I'm not sure where to start with that, I read through the review for the rads I have, the 360s are lists as being 0.18 @ 1 GPM (0.06 @ 0.05 GPM) I would guess the 480s would be similar. Here what the reviewer had to say about them.
> The full mb blocks are custom, or at least not mainstream, so finding PSI details would probably involve me testing them myself. I will do some research on the pumps you mentioned tonight.


You know, 0.52 GPM isn't horrible. If your pumps aren't currently at 100% then you're probably in good shape if you can add a bit of power to them. And those rads you quoted are pretty low restriction comparatively.

I think you chose really well with those radiators. You can see a radiator like the EK XE360 does really well in that roundup but you couldn't run nearly as many of those without your loop choking out as you can the RX360 V3's that you've got. There's just too much restriction in the EK XE360, for example, to make it viable in your loop.

I'd say you're in pretty good shape. If your pumps are already at 100%, you don't have a lot of room to tune things further on the pump side. Obviously you can change your fan speeds but pump wise I think your going to have to live with 0.5 GPM. Hopefully the pumps aren't too loud at their current levels.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Krazy Kanuck*
> 
> Hello Aquaero-ites?
> 
> I'm in the final stages of my first WC build and I was wondering a few things. I'm not sure there is much I can do to fix them now, but in the spirit of learning from my mistakes I have a few questions I would like to ask.
> 
> System details:
> 
> My loop is far from simple, spans 6 feet by 4ft horizontally and ranges +/- 6 inches vertically from center regularly. To add to that I am using two 360 rads, and two 480s (14 gentle typhoon fans @ 1400 rpm), two full motherboard blocks, and three full gpu blocks. I also have four reservoirs which for the most part are there to look pretty. I'm using a pair of AC D5 pumps in a Bitspower dual top. I have an AC flow meter about mid way through my loop.
> 
> There is probably a LOT of restriction involved here. I'm in the process of prepping the loop and have an Aquaero 6 hooked up to the D5s and and AC high flow meter. No aquasuite as of yet and the pumps were unboxed and just plugged in, no address assigning, etc. My current flow rate appears to be 120-122 lph (32 gph). Not sure if the AC flow meter needs to be calibrated as its plugged into the aquaero,
> 
> Like many people I asked around when trying to put a parts list together and the consensus was two D5 pumps would be enough. I'm not saying they aren't but I'm not sure that 120 lph is what I was expecting. There are a lot of 90 degree bends in this build, it is hard to avoid that and I'm ok with it. I guess my question here is if I were to do this again, is there a better pump / pump top combination I could have gone with? Is 120 lph too low?
> 
> Also these Bitspower reservoirs have these little silver "faucets" for lack of a better term on the inlets that divide the flow three ways to create turbulence or something. Would taking these out help / hinder?
> 
> I've already learned that I should not place my pumps between reservoirs, that was a painful mistake as I drilled holes and mounted everything before learning it. I appreciate any help, sage advice, criticism, etc. I hope in a year or two I will be able to tear this build down and start over with a little bit more experience under my belt to make it better.


D5s are for flow, ddcs are head pressure, either can work. Add more.

But I would of gone ddc at this point add 1-2 more d5s imo when possible. I have about that much in my loop and my quad ddc stay near 20% pwm.

@ led Strips.

Solder them, you may not like it, but if you buy a nice set up [ @longroadtrip has a great one i love that is extremely reasonably priced] with flux and leaded solder (I recommend lead) you teach your self to solder, you will find it is easy to change them. Really easy. And soldering is a skill everyone should learn. The key is flux


----------



## Krazy Kanuck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> D5s are for flow, ddcs are head pressure, either can work. Add more.
> 
> But I would of gone ddc at this point add 1-2 more d5s imo when possible. I have about that much in my loop and my quad ddc stay near 20% pwm.


Thanks for the insight, if I were to add two more, should they all be together, or could I put them elsewhere in the loop?


----------



## Krazy Kanuck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GTXJackBauer*
> 
> I'm not sure if the pumps by default run @ 100% as some due but not sure with the AC's D5s.
> 
> Which pumps are you using? Are they the usb/aquabus versions? If so, you will need to set up unique ID's for each of them. IF they are varios, put both dials to 4 or 5, as long as they're not sucking in air and than you can figure out where your sweet spot is via flow meter.
> 
> Which flow meter did you grab? AC has several flow meters that need calibration and others that don't.


Thanks for the reply!

My D5s are the usb/aquabus variant, as soon as I am able I will boot one one the systems to add IDs, as of now I am still trying to rinse the blitz out of everything. As for the flow meter, here is a link to the exact one.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Krazy Kanuck*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> D5s are for flow, ddcs are head pressure, either can work. Add more.
> 
> But I would of gone ddc at this point add 1-2 more d5s imo when possible. I have about that much in my loop and my quad ddc stay near 20% pwm.
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for the insight, if I were to add two more, should they all be together, or could I put them elsewhere in the loop?
Click to expand...

does not matter, its a loop. so placement is irrelevant. the times it matters is when priming and filling. IE DONT RUN THE PUMP DRY, if you do empty your loop then only start pumps with fluid in them, being fed by a res
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Krazy Kanuck*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *GTXJackBauer*
> 
> I'm not sure if the pumps by default run @ 100% as some due but not sure with the AC's D5s.
> 
> Which pumps are you using? Are they the usb/aquabus versions? If so, you will need to set up unique ID's for each of them. IF they are varios, put both dials to 4 or 5, as long as they're not sucking in air and than you can figure out where your sweet spot is via flow meter.
> 
> Which flow meter did you grab? AC has several flow meters that need calibration and others that don't.
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for the reply!
> 
> My D5s are the usb/aquabus variant, as soon as I am able I will boot one one the systems to add IDs, as of now I am still trying to rinse the blitz out of everything. As for the flow meter, here is a link to the exact one.
Click to expand...

they should be 100% then


----------



## Krazy Kanuck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> does not matter, its a loop. so placement is irrelevant. the times it matters is when priming and filling. IE DONT RUN THE PUMP DRY, if you do empty your loop then only start pumps with fluid in them, being fed by a res
> they should be 100% then


I had originally placed my pumps between two reservoirs and could not get them flowing so I moved them after all the res. I still have this odd gap in my system, if I were to place a second set of D5 there would they be beneficial after initiating the loop with the other pair? or is that just a bad place to put pumps in general? Post of specific issue


----------



## Mega Man

should not matter, esp once filled.

besides the filling, ( res > pump ) there is no better place for a pump, in a loop - its a loop so it just goes in a circle


----------



## GTXJackBauer

As mega said, make sure your two pumps in serial have a natural flow of fluid from the reservoir before you do anything, even priming them. That will tell you they're getting liquid before you fire them up which as mega said again, will be run both @ 100% speed.

Once you install your two other pumps in serial unless there's a D5 quad top somewhere out there in the universe, you'll want to prime the main pumps in serial first. Once you get the loop going, than turn up the other pumps since they'll be lubricated by than but you'll have to specify each one with a unique ID via USB and than have them connected via Aquabus. Unfortunately at that point, you've already hit your 4 MPS limit on the aquaero. I would honestly connect them via USB and Aquabus with a hub. Those two separate hubs can be found on AC's site.

The flow meter you got was a great choice since it didn't take up a MPS slot as well.


----------



## Ashcroft

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Krazy Kanuck*
> 
> Hello Aquaero-ites?
> 
> I'm in the final stages of my first WC build and I was wondering a few things. I'm not sure there is much I can do to fix them now, but in the spirit of learning from my mistakes I have a few questions I would like to ask.
> 
> System details:
> 
> My loop is far from simple, spans 6 feet by 4ft horizontally and ranges +/- 6 inches vertically from center regularly. To add to that I am using two 360 rads, and two 480s (14 gentle typhoon fans @ 1400 rpm), two full motherboard blocks, and three full gpu blocks. I also have four reservoirs which for the most part are there to look pretty. I'm using a pair of AC D5 pumps in a Bitspower dual top. I have an AC flow meter about mid way through my loop.
> 
> There is probably a LOT of restriction involved here. I'm in the process of prepping the loop and have an Aquaero 6 hooked up to the D5s and and AC high flow meter. No aquasuite as of yet and the pumps were unboxed and just plugged in, no address assigning, etc. My current flow rate appears to be 120-122 lph (32 gph). Not sure if the AC flow meter needs to be calibrated as its plugged into the aquaero,
> 
> Like many people I asked around when trying to put a parts list together and the consensus was two D5 pumps would be enough. I'm not saying they aren't but I'm not sure that 120 lph is what I was expecting. There are a lot of 90 degree bends in this build, it is hard to avoid that and I'm ok with it. I guess my question here is if I were to do this again, is there a better pump / pump top combination I could have gone with? Is 120 lph too low?
> 
> Also these Bitspower reservoirs have these little silver "faucets" for lack of a better term on the inlets that divide the flow three ways to create turbulence or something. Would taking these out help / hinder?
> 
> I've already learned that I should not place my pumps between reservoirs, that was a painful mistake as I drilled holes and mounted everything before learning it. I appreciate any help, sage advice, criticism, etc. I hope in a year or two I will be able to tear this build down and start over with a little bit more experience under my belt to make it better.


If dual d5 pumps are only providing around 2lpm then adding more will change it very little I'm afraid. Under ideal circumstances doubling your pump power to 4 d5s would up flow to around 3lpm. I really don't see that as being worth the complications and cost entailed.

First you need to make sure you are getting all you can from the existing pumps. Dual d5s only producing 2lpm means either some truly excessive restriction or a problem. The components you listed should not cause anywhere near the restriction needed, with the exception of the MB blocks you said were custom? They are an unknown.

Air in the loop can cause low flow rates, and multiple reservoirs are notorious for causing this. Try to ensure there are no pressure sapping air pockets. Air pockets can act sort of like a spring, soaking up pressure.

Rather then buying a couple hundred bucks worth of more pumps it may be better to split the loop and buy two separate pump tops for the two you have. If the problem is restriction you could at least confine it to one loop.
The Bitspower dual top is certainly not a great performer but it would only make a slight difference. Nothing like what you are seeing.

Some pictures might help us get an idea of what is going on. In the end 2Lpm is not great but not the end of the world either. The system will still work fine with that flow rate.


----------



## Andrew LB

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hadesfactor*
> 
> This is what I use....It insulates so shorting out isn't an issue....I've used it to mounts multiple circuit boards. I also put a double layer on depending on how much the solder joints protrude
> 
> https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007Y7DV4E/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1


That tape and the other 3m Mounting tape with the red backing are crazy strong. I used to have a euro license plate attached to the front bumper of my Audi using two 8" long strips of the stuff and it held strong through rain, snow, hot summers, and even when the car got totaled in a head on with a drunk driver, there wasn't much left of my Reiger bumper, but the plate was still stuck to a section of the bumper some 100 feet from the car.


----------



## Phaedrus89

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Andrew LB*
> 
> That tape and the other 3m Mounting tape with the red backing are crazy strong. I used to have a euro license plate attached to the front bumper of my Audi using two 8" long strips of the stuff and it held strong through rain, snow, hot summers, and even when the car got totaled in a head on with a drunk driver, there wasn't much left of my Reiger bumper, but the plate was still stuck to a section of the bumper some 100 feet from the car.


Just got a roll of this stuff. Guess its safe to say my splitty9's and AQ6LT aren't going anywhere


----------



## TheAbyss

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *war4peace*
> 
> I live in Romania ?
> 
> The whole positive and negative pressure discussion boils down to dust and nothing more. Performance difference is negligible, there are other factors which have a much greater impact on water temperatures.
> Also it depends heavily on case type.
> 
> For example my Thermaltake Core X5 is like a sieve by design and dust will eventually find its way in despite its rather simplistic filters. I have two 360 radiators located on the top of the case and tgey push air out through the top. I have another 200mm fan at tge front pushing ambient air in. That actually is the only fan which pushes air in. The fans on the top are 2x Genthe Typhoons at 800 RPM and 3x Noctua NF-F12 pwm regulated.
> Performance is very good with a set point controller aimed at 35 degrees liquid temperature. During idle the system is dead quiet. During heavy gaming and rendering the Noctua fans reach about 1000 RPM which is very little noise.
> Yes, a bit of dust might accumulate over a period of 6 months or more of 24/7 uptime but given the fact I tinker with my build more often than that I couldn't care less about the dust.
> 
> Fact of the matter is I plan on changing my tubing to copper come fall (September or October) so dust doesn't even have time to accumulate.
> 
> It is best practice to change liquid every 12 months anyway so unless you live in a very dusty area you don't have to go the extra mile to keep it out. Mind you, that is just my opinion based on my priorities so your mileage may vary. Others who would disagree with me are also right based on their priorities.


Hey, so I have just (yesterday evening) finished the build that we chatted about on Friday.. and I have also incorporated a Farbwerk. Stripes I used are from Nanoxia, Cablemod and Phobya (though I must say the cablemod ones have the green and blue channel inverted...) I have also bought the connectors from the Picture to re-use some old stripes that I had as spare parts from my house Project.. same experience you had.. at the end of the day, soldered the together..

@all: thanks to all for the valuable discussion. Played around with the Aquasuite with different sensor positions, and I have now a Delta of 6 degrees ambient vs. water.. which is ok I think. No spills, D5 on stage 4 inaudible...

but: my MPS200 does not Show any flow... temperature reading is ok, but flow is 0 l/h.. connected to USB (only), all showing up in the Aquasuite. I stopped the pump for Kalibration, and when the stream stopped, there was second of reaction from the sensor 1,6l/h.. then zeroed again... I think a D5 should be way within the 40 - 200 l/h range of the sensor...
any thoughts? Shall I also connect it to aquabus?


----------



## war4peace

Could be your D5 goes above 200l/h.


----------



## jura11

@TheAbyss

Could be yours MPS200 sensor plumbed other way or not correct way/orientation?

This has happened to me when I installed my MPS400

Hope this helps

Thanks, Jura


----------



## TheAbyss

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jura11*
> 
> @TheAbyss
> 
> Could be yours MPS200 sensor plumbed other way or not correct way/orientation?
> 
> This has happened to me when I installed my MPS400
> 
> Hope this helps
> 
> Thanks, Jura


Mhh. that´s a good thought, I do not think so, but given that I have taken apart and reassembled the rig a lot, it may have happened... which means I´d have to refill the Loop...NOOOOOO!!!!!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *war4peace*
> 
> Could be your D5 goes above 200l/h.


I´ll also go that down that path and see if i can throttle the pump and see what happenes... thanks

Other than that, I am more than happy how flawlessly it worked when I filled the Loop on Friday.... ME MADE FIRE!!!!!


----------



## jura11

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheAbyss*
> 
> Mhh. that´s a good thought, I do not think so, but given that I have taken apart and reassembled the rig a lot, it may have happened... which means I´d have to refill the Loop...NOOOOOO!!!!!
> I´ll also go that down that path and see if i can throttle the pump and see what happenes... thanks
> 
> Other than that, I am more than happy how flawlessly it worked when I filled the Loop on Friday.... ME MADE FIRE!!!!!


Hi there

In my case I first time I installed my MPS400 other way,pump OUT > OUT of MPS > IN of MPS > bottom radiator which has been wrong way or not correct way to install MPS400

Correct way should be like this pump OUT > IN of MPS > OUT of MPS >bottom radiator

But can be in yours case,MPS400 can be better than MPS200 or rather this one

https://www.overclockers.co.uk/aqua-computer-high-flow-flow-sensor-wc-113-aq.html

Hope this helps

Thanks, Jura


----------



## war4peace

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jura11*
> 
> But can be in yours case,MPS400 can be better than MPS200 or rather this one
> 
> https://www.overclockers.co.uk/aqua-computer-high-flow-flow-sensor-wc-113-aq.html


That's what I have in my system. It works very well.


----------



## jura11

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *war4peace*
> 
> That's what I have in my system. It works very well.


I will be replacing my MPS400 for this one as well

Hope this helps

Thanks, Jura


----------



## WhellchairNinja

Hello fellow Aquaeros! My first post here! have been reading to page 60 in this thread. Very much good reading so far!

I am planning on buying a MPS flow sensor, but which size do i need, 100, 200 or 400 l/hr?

The loop is as follows. EKWB bayres with D5 pump -> Generic 3x140 rad, cpu -> Gpu -> future MPS sensor -> future AC Airplex 280. -> back to res and pump.


----------



## Mega Man

See below
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheAbyss*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *war4peace*
> 
> I live in Romania ?
> 
> The whole positive and negative pressure discussion boils down to dust and nothing more. Performance difference is negligible, there are other factors which have a much greater impact on water temperatures.
> Also it depends heavily on case type.
> 
> For example my Thermaltake Core X5 is like a sieve by design and dust will eventually find its way in despite its rather simplistic filters. I have two 360 radiators located on the top of the case and tgey push air out through the top. I have another 200mm fan at tge front pushing ambient air in. That actually is the only fan which pushes air in. The fans on the top are 2x Genthe Typhoons at 800 RPM and 3x Noctua NF-F12 pwm regulated.
> Performance is very good with a set point controller aimed at 35 degrees liquid temperature. During idle the system is dead quiet. During heavy gaming and rendering the Noctua fans reach about 1000 RPM which is very little noise.
> Yes, a bit of dust might accumulate over a period of 6 months or more of 24/7 uptime but given the fact I tinker with my build more often than that I couldn't care less about the dust.
> 
> Fact of the matter is I plan on changing my tubing to copper come fall (September or October) so dust doesn't even have time to accumulate.
> 
> It is best practice to change liquid every 12 months anyway so unless you live in a very dusty area you don't have to go the extra mile to keep it out. Mind you, that is just my opinion based on my priorities so your mileage may vary. Others who would disagree with me are also right based on their priorities.
> 
> 
> 
> Hey, so I have just (yesterday evening) finished the build that we chatted about on Friday.. and I have also incorporated a Farbwerk. Stripes I used are from Nanoxia, Cablemod and Phobya (though I must say the cablemod ones have the green and blue channel inverted...) I have also bought the connectors from the Picture to re-use some old stripes that I had as spare parts from my house Project.. same experience you had.. at the end of the day, soldered the together..
> 
> @all: thanks to all for the valuable discussion. Played around with the Aquasuite with different sensor positions, and I have now a Delta of 6 degrees ambient vs. water.. which is ok I think. No spills, D5 on stage 4 inaudible...
> 
> but: my MPS200 does not Show any flow... temperature reading is ok, but flow is 0 l/h.. connected to USB (only), all showing up in the Aquasuite. I stopped the pump for Kalibration, and when the stream stopped, there was second of reaction from the sensor 1,6l/h.. then zeroed again... I think a D5 should be way within the 40 - 200 l/h range of the sensor...
> any thoughts? Shall I also connect it to aquabus?
Click to expand...

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheAbyss*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *jura11*
> 
> @TheAbyss
> 
> Could be yours MPS200 sensor plumbed other way or not correct way/orientation?
> 
> This has happened to me when I installed my MPS400
> 
> Hope this helps
> 
> Thanks, Jura
> 
> 
> 
> Mhh. that´s a good thought, I do not think so, but given that I have taken apart and reassembled the rig a lot, it may have happened... which means I´d have to refill the Loop...NOOOOOO!!!!!
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *war4peace*
> 
> Could be your D5 goes above 200l/h.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> I´ll also go that down that path and see if i can throttle the pump and see what happenes... thanks
> 
> Other than that, I am more than happy how flawlessly it worked when I filled the Loop on Friday.... ME MADE FIRE!!!!!
Click to expand...

Per Shoogy Next time get the 400


----------



## WhellchairNinja

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> Per Shoogy Next time get the 400


Thanks a lot, 400 it is then!


----------



## war4peace

Somewhat offtopic: does anyone know how effective is the aquadrive micro copper G1/4?
I have 2 HDDs in my Thermaltake Core X5 and they are located in a hard-to-reach area (for air anyway), they get pretty hot (55+ degrees Celsius).


----------



## Dasandmancometh

Can you set the Aquacomputer D5's speed through the A6 via aquabus? Or only set conditions for the A6 to control the D5? Trying to figure out how I'm wiring things .


----------



## GTXJackBauer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dasandmancometh*
> 
> Can you set the Aquacomputer D5's speed through the A6 via aquabus? Or only set conditions for the A6 to control the D5? Trying to figure out how I'm wiring things .


That all depends which D5 we are talking about here. In most cases yes unless its a vario.


----------



## Dasandmancometh

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GTXJackBauer*
> 
> That all depends which D5 we are talking about here. In most cases yes unless its a vario.


I wasn't aware there was any other D5 pump with a aquabus connector. Looks like there's only one D5 with the aquabus on aqua computers site, which are the ones I have.


----------



## GTXJackBauer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dasandmancometh*
> 
> I wasn't aware there was any other D5 pump with a aquabus connector. Looks like there's only one D5 with the aquabus on aqua computers site, which are the ones I have.


You never stated it was a USB/Aquabus pump, only asking if you could connect it to via aquabus, assuming you're referring to the AQ6. Yes, there's 3 different AC pumps. Now that we know you have the USB/Aquabus, yes, you connect it to the aquabus high on the AQ6.


----------



## Dasandmancometh

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dasandmancometh*
> 
> Can you set the Aquacomputer D5's speed through the A6 via *aquabus*? Or only set conditions for the A6 to control the D5? Trying to figure out how I'm wiring things .


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GTXJackBauer*
> 
> You never stated it was a USB/Aquabus pump, only asking if you could connect it to via aquabus, assuming you're referring to the AQ6. Yes, there's 3 different AC pumps. Now that we know you have the USB/Aquabus, yes, you connect it to the aquabus high on the AQ6.


I believe that information was in the question.


----------



## GTXJackBauer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dasandmancometh*
> 
> I believe that information was in the question.


Smh......Listen man, you didn't specify which pump you were talking about only to ask if you could just control it via Aquabus. We've heard it all over the years here. Don't make people assume if you're not being specific. It could have been a PWM pump you're trying to plug into the Aquabus via Aquaero for all we know.


----------



## Mega Man

Yes you can. You can even make curves


----------



## TheRedViper

Please help me here, I'm trying to figure out the connections. I have two 360 rads in push/pull with a 240 rad in push with a 140mm as back exhaust. I also have two Aquacomputer d5 pumps with pwm and speed signal with their Cuplex kryos next with vision cpu cooler.

My first idea was this: use their Splitty9 to gather the 6 fans of the push/pull setup and then send it to one of the four 30W fan channel. (since theres 2 push/pull, I would need two channel). Then send the two pumps to a fan channel each, so all my 4 fan channels are full now.

Now I need to figure out how to connect the two 240 rad fans and the back exhaust one and also the vision module from the cooler.

I guess that since the push/pull setup has different fans (3xNoiseblocker Eloop BP12-ps on one side and 3xBequiet!silent wings 3 pwm high-speed on the other) I could gather all the 120mm eloop (3+3+2) on the same splitty9 and then all the be quiet ones on the second splitty9 so I would only need 2 channels for the fans?

I still dont know what to do with the vision module though. And isnt there supposed to be atleast one fan header connected to the mobo for it not to shutdown?


----------



## Jubijub

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheRedViper*
> 
> Please help me here, I'm trying to figure out the connections. I have two 360 rads in push/pull with a 240 rad in push with a 140mm as back exhaust. I also have two Aquacomputer d5 pumps with pwm and speed signal with their Cuplex kryos next with vision cpu cooler.
> 
> My first idea was this: use their Splitty9 to gather the 6 fans of the push/pull setup and then send it to one of the four 30W fan channel. (since theres 2 push/pull, I would need two channel). Then send the two pumps to a fan channel each, so all my 4 fan channels are full now.
> 
> Now I need to figure out how to connect the two 240 rad fans and the back exhaust one and also the vision module from the cooler.
> 
> I guess that since the push/pull setup has different fans (3xNoiseblocker Eloop BP12-ps on one side and 3xBequiet!silent wings 3 pwm high-speed on the other) I could gather all the 120mm eloop (3+3+2) on the same splitty9 and then all the be quiet ones on the second splitty9 so I would only need 2 channels for the fans?
> 
> I still dont know what to do with the vision module though. And isnt there supposed to be atleast one fan header connected to the mobo for it not to shutdown?


You have 3 rads + the 2 pumps, which is the same setup I have.

Wiring : https://docs.google.com/drawings/d/1dyzr4_8MmA-KUQk38MWM8JjDoSa97teL4iVne-VrzIs/edit?usp=sharing

You use :
Splitty #1 for Rad 1, plugged in Fan #1(in : PWM, out : 6PWM for the 6 fans)
Splitty #2 for Rad 2, plugged in Fan #2 (in : PWM, out : 6PWM for the 6 fans)
Splitty #3 for Rad 3, plugged in Fan #3 (in : PWM, out : 2PWM for the 2 fans)
(this leaves you a free Fan #4, but mind the total wattage as all fan ports should not deliver more than 30W if I read the manual correctly)
Splitty #4 for pumps, plugged in Aquabus High : (in : Aquabus, out : 2 aquabus signals for the pumps, with a lot of other slots to go (not sure if Vision uses Aquabus, but if it does you can plug it there)

For the mobo :
- you can either setup your mobo so it doesn't whine about having CPU_FAN at 0 RPM
- you can plug an RPM cable (like a PWM 3 pin) from Aquabus RPM plug to your mobo CPU_FAN


----------



## ttnuagmada

Hey guys, I got a Farbwerk, and i'm having trouble getting it to work right over Aquabus. If i connect it via Aquabus, it shows up under the aquabus tab, and shows what port its on, but it doesnt show up in the main menu tree, and no amount of playing around gets it to show up like it should. It works fine over USB, but I dont have enough usb connectors to connect both it and my AX1200i at the same time.

I updated the firmware on it while it was connected to USB, hoping that might do it, but no luck.


----------



## WhellchairNinja

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ttnuagmada*
> 
> Hey guys, I got a Farbwerk, and i'm having trouble getting it to work right over Aquabus. If i connect it via Aquabus, it shows up under the aquabus tab, and shows what port its on, but it doesnt show up in the main menu tree, and no amount of playing around gets it to show up like it should. It works fine over USB, but I dont have enough usb connectors to connect both it and my AX1200i at the same time.
> 
> I updated the firmware on it while it was connected to USB, hoping that might do it, but no luck.


You need to connect the farbwerk to usb, and comfigure the outputs you are gonna use to be controlled via aquabus. When this is done, you can disconnect the usb, and use the Aquaero to control it.

To be able to control it you must add an RGBcontroller under the controller tab in aquasuite. Then add the outputs to that controller.


----------



## ttnuagmada

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WhellchairNinja*
> 
> You need to connect the farbwerk to usb, and comfigure the outputs you are gonna use to be controlled via aquabus. When this is done, you can disconnect the usb, and use the Aquaero to control it.
> 
> To be able to control it you must add an RGBcontroller under the controller tab in aquasuite. Then add the outputs to that controller.


That did it! thanks!


----------



## Newtocooling

If I'm setting up my Aquacomputer D5 USB, Aquabus pump to my Aquaero 6, do I need to plug the USB connector to the MB first? One more thing I don't see a 4 pin Aquabus cable in the packaging, can I just use a female to female 4 pin fan cable?


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Newtocooling*
> 
> If I'm setting up my Aquacomputer D5 USB, Aquabus pump to my Aquaero 6, do I need to plug the USB connector to the MB first? One more thing I don't see a 4 pin Aquabus cable in the packaging, can I just use a female to female 4 pin fan cable?


yes you need to plug in usb, but you can do both aquabus and usb. also there is no aquabus cable included. lastly yes a 4 pin fan cable works ( female to female )


----------



## 0ldChicken

Hey all, having some issues running pwm fans in power control mode on my Aquaero 5LT's PWM header and I'm not sure why. I've tried a few different pwm fans; Noctua nf-p14s, BeQuiet SW3 and Vardar 2200rpm. PWM mode seems fine but when I switch to power control mode the fans will start up around 40% and the fan speeds decrease as I turn up the controller. Once I get around 90% or above the noctua and bequiet stop turning entirely and the Vardars slow way down below 500rpm. When I plug any of these fans into a DC header on the aquaero they operate normally. I checked voltage of the fans and they are getting 12v while at 100% so I'm assuming it is somehow a pwm signal keeping the fans from running correctly.

Any help is appreciated!


----------



## Ashcroft

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Newtocooling*
> 
> If I'm setting up my Aquacomputer D5 USB, Aquabus pump to my Aquaero 6, do I need to plug the USB connector to the MB first? One more thing I don't see a 4 pin Aquabus cable in the packaging, can I just use a female to female 4 pin fan cable?


The d5 works with the 3 pin Aquabus. It doesn't need the 4 pin because it has its own power and does not have a 5v sensor on board like some of the other Aquabus devices.
It will still work with the 4 pin of course and yes any female to female fan cable or extension works just fine. That's all Aquabus cables are.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *0ldChicken*
> 
> Hey all, having some issues running pwm fans in power control mode on my Aquaero 5LT's PWM header and I'm not sure why. I've tried a few different pwm fans; Noctua nf-p14s, BeQuiet SW3 and Vardar 2200rpm. PWM mode seems fine but when I switch to power control mode the fans will start up around 40% and the fan speeds decrease as I turn up the controller. Once I get around 90% or above the noctua and bequiet stop turning entirely and the Vardars slow way down below 500rpm. When I plug any of these fans into a DC header on the aquaero they operate normally. I checked voltage of the fans and they are getting 12v while at 100% so I'm assuming it is somehow a pwm signal keeping the fans from running correctly.
> 
> Any help is appreciated!


A better question is why are you trying to use Voltage control on pwm fans


----------



## 0ldChicken

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> A better question is why are you trying to use Voltage control on pwm fans


i don't know about a "better" question but that's ok.
I thought about explaining that preemptively. Harnessed 8 fans together and i believe the pwm signal is too weak. Voltage control is fine and works on the other channels but I'm mostly just curious why they don't work on the pwm channel even though there is an option to do so. Or is the power controlled not dc like i think?


----------



## BoredErica

8 fans 1 header, min rpm pushed up to 500-600rpm. It's in the same general area as min fan speed controlling with voltage (sw3), which is 580 and up.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *0ldChicken*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> A better question is why are you trying to use Voltage control on pwm fans
> 
> 
> 
> i don't know about a "better" question but that's ok.
> I thought about explaining that preemptively. Harnessed 8 fans together and i believe the pwm signal is too weak. Voltage control is fine and works on the other channels but I'm mostly just curious why they don't work on the pwm channel even though there is an option to do so. Or is the power controlled not dc like i think?
Click to expand...

it is a better question.

you *can* damage the control chip ( and or motor ) by attempting to use voltage control

in reality we would need to see what the 4th pin is outputing to answer you ( on a scope )


----------



## 0ldChicken

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> it is a better question.
> 
> you *can* damage the control chip ( and or motor ) by attempting to use voltage control
> 
> in reality we would need to see what the 4th pin is outputing to answer you ( on a scope )


That's new information to me, I've run many pwm fans via voltage control due to not having enough pwm headers for years since everything I've ever read says it's fine. Also I can't find any info on it now so any links would be appreciated, I read that people have had issues when somehow cycling the 12v like pwm would but I assume that isn't what you're talking about.

I don't reasonably have access to a scope unfortunately.


----------



## Mega Man

you can read the swiftech h220 thread.

the key is can .
i am not saying it will. but either way the voltage control is not something i would do to a pwm fan. you pay more for pwm most of the time.

additionally as reported i doubt it can be better rpm wise

lastly as it seems you may not understand voltage control much most fans ahave a startup voltage ( usually around 6v. ) and after startup some can go lower, but 40% or less ( tbh ~ 55% is about the lowest i go ) is really asking alot of the fan


----------



## Krazy Kanuck

So I added a second pair of D5s to my loop tonight, the results are not encouraging. With the original two D5s I was at 120 lph with a pretty air free loop. I tried just one out of curiosity and It dropped to 80 lph, so the second was only adding 40 lph. With all four I'm at 142 lph, so whomever said don't bother with more I should have listened. I will probably keep all four for now, I will want to tune them down from full power once I get one of the PCs up and running. I decided to do a bit of rough measuring and came up with 230" of loop not including two 400mm res, two 250 res, two 480 rads, two 360 rads, two full mb blocks, one 970 block, and two titan blocks. There are also 36 90 degree fittings, I did not bother to count the rest.

I am going to tear the loop down tonight, once I am able I will probably try to run each half of the loop separately to see if there is anything weird going on. I will also try the full mb blocks with one pump and a res just to get an idea of the resistance there. I can't really measure it outside of flow but maybe it will be useful going forward.

Out of curiosity are the bitspower dual pump tops inefficient? are there better top options? I realize I am grasping for straws at this point. Going to try to remove some of these 90 degree fittings this weekend with bends if possible when I rip out the PETG for acrylic in the back.

And here's some pics as requested. The primary pair of pumps now reside in the rear well on the floor of the desk, they are not pictured as I was too lazy tonight to take a new picture.


----------



## Mega Man

First, that sucks. Sorry :/ second I have to ask, are you absolutely due you are not miss reading it, generally flow is represented as lpm


----------



## Krazy Kanuck

So quick update:

Server side, mb block, 970 block, 400mm res, 250 res, a 480 rad, and a 360 rad ran @176 lph with two d5s. I removed one of the 3 way faucet things from the bitspower res because I was curious and gained another 6 lph not sure if they serve a purpose other than being cool, but I think I'll yank the others when I get the chance.

Will try to do the other half tomorrow


----------



## Krazy Kanuck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> First, that sucks. Sorry :/ second I have to ask, are you absolutely due you are not miss reading it, generally flow is represented as lpm


There was a small flicker of hope that I was wrong but just turned the Aquaero on and it reads "l/h"


----------



## Mega Man

Those are for not creating a vortex


----------



## war4peace

I remember reading somewhere that the Bitspower tops are worse than the EK volute.
Anyway, have you considered trying a serial+parallel combination? Again, from what I remember serial pumps counter pressure drops and parallel pumps counter flow drops.


----------



## iamjanco

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *war4peace*
> 
> I remember reading somewhere that the Bitspower tops are worse than the EK volute.


See *this* at Extreme Rigs:
Quote:


> The Bitspower dual top performs terribly, far worse than just using the two default Laing tops


----------



## war4peace

Right. That's where I saw it.


----------



## Jubijub

Is there any functional difference is an air temp / water temp 2 pin probes are connected straight to the AQ6, or using an MPS device temp socket as a relay (for instance the Aqualis XT has a temp socket, so do my two D5 Aquabus/USB pumps ? Because if none, I guess I will save some cabling by pluging 'nearby" instead of going all the way up to the AQ6


----------



## Mega Man

I don't think so, as long as the temp gets forwarded on to the aquaero


----------



## Phaedrus89

Just picked up 2 of these: 3mm White 2pin LED's
To mount in my acrylic pump top
Can some confirm these can be plugged into the 2x 2pin PWM headers on the 6LT?


----------



## Krazy Kanuck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *war4peace*
> 
> I remember reading somewhere that the Bitspower tops are worse than the EK volute.
> Anyway, have you considered trying a serial+parallel combination? Again, from what I remember serial pumps counter pressure drops and parallel pumps counter flow drops.


Not sure I have the room to run parallel at this point. I've made a lot of notes for the next upgrade, I will have to test that out.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iamjanco*
> 
> See *this* at Extreme Rigs:


Ugh this makes me sick... not sure I have it in me to swap these out but I do appreciate the information.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phaedrus89*
> 
> Just picked up 2 of these: 3mm White 2pin LED's
> To mount in my acrylic pump top
> Can some confirm these can be plugged into the 2x 2pin PWM headers on the 6LT?


You will need resistors. That is a 3.3v led ie, it is ment for 3.3v.


----------



## Phaedrus89

Somehow I failed to notice the 3.3 forward voltage









This will give me something to do while I run my leak test and part 2 blitz cleaning.

Seems these 2pin IDC mobo connectors aren't a terribly good fit for these pwm outputs either.


----------



## Ashcroft

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Krazy Kanuck*
> 
> So I added a second pair of D5s to my loop tonight, the results are not encouraging. With the original two D5s I was at 120 lph with a pretty air free loop. I tried just one out of curiosity and It dropped to 80 lph, so the second was only adding 40 lph. With all four I'm at 142 lph, so whomever said don't bother with more I should have listened. I will probably keep all four for now, I will want to tune them down from full power once I get one of the PCs up and running. I decided to do a bit of rough measuring and came up with 230" of loop not including two 400mm res, two 250 res, two 480 rads, two 360 rads, two full mb blocks, one 970 block, and two titan blocks. There are also 36 90 degree fittings, I did not bother to count the rest.
> 
> I am going to tear the loop down tonight, once I am able I will probably try to run each half of the loop separately to see if there is anything weird going on. I will also try the full mb blocks with one pump and a res just to get an idea of the resistance there. I can't really measure it outside of flow but maybe it will be useful going forward.
> 
> Out of curiosity are the bitspower dual pump tops inefficient? are there better top options? I realize I am grasping for straws at this point. Going to try to remove some of these 90 degree fittings this weekend with bends if possible when I rip out the PETG for acrylic in the back.
> 
> And here's some pics as requested. The primary pair of pumps now reside in the rear well on the floor of the desk, they are not pictured as I was too lazy tonight to take a new picture.


Physics can't be beaten unfortunately. I expected the added pumps would contribute slightly more than that but not by much.

It has nothing to do with the brand of pump top though. The real difference with a more effective design is small. The EK dual top makes about 20% better pressure. 100% more of what you had gave you only an extra 25Lph

Can you tell us more about the custom MB blocks. Could they be the issue?
The 4 reservoirs could be a factor too unless they are all positioned at the end of the loop and not interspersed along its length. Pumping through a res that isn't completely full is creating a pressure soaking air pocket.

At least now that you have the 4 pumps you could more easily split the loop up and hopefully get better results.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ashcroft*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Krazy Kanuck*
> 
> So I added a second pair of D5s to my loop tonight, the results are not encouraging. With the original two D5s I was at 120 lph with a pretty air free loop. I tried just one out of curiosity and It dropped to 80 lph, so the second was only adding 40 lph. With all four I'm at 142 lph, so whomever said don't bother with more I should have listened. I will probably keep all four for now, I will want to tune them down from full power once I get one of the PCs up and running. I decided to do a bit of rough measuring and came up with 230" of loop not including two 400mm res, two 250 res, two 480 rads, two 360 rads, two full mb blocks, one 970 block, and two titan blocks. There are also 36 90 degree fittings, I did not bother to count the rest.
> 
> I am going to tear the loop down tonight, once I am able I will probably try to run each half of the loop separately to see if there is anything weird going on. I will also try the full mb blocks with one pump and a res just to get an idea of the resistance there. I can't really measure it outside of flow but maybe it will be useful going forward.
> 
> Out of curiosity are the bitspower dual pump tops inefficient? are there better top options? I realize I am grasping for straws at this point. Going to try to remove some of these 90 degree fittings this weekend with bends if possible when I rip out the PETG for acrylic in the back.
> 
> And here's some pics as requested. The primary pair of pumps now reside in the rear well on the floor of the desk, they are not pictured as I was too lazy tonight to take a new picture.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Physics can't be beaten unfortunately. I expected the added pumps would contribute slightly more than that but not by much.
> 
> It has nothing to do with the brand of pump top though. The real difference with a more effective design is small.
> 
> Can you tell us more about the custom MB blocks. Could they be the issue?
> The 4 reservoirs could be a factor too.
> 
> At least now that you have the 4 pumps you could more easily split the loop up and hopefully get better results.
Click to expand...

The way the dual top is being used configures the output from the worst possible port location with regards to restriction and bad 90 degree angles . . .

If possible, I'd temporarily run the output from the regular output port, the one facing up on the side edge of the top, and see if that gets you a better result.

You could also try going with D5 Strong pumps at 24V, that way you'd have a great deal more pumping power, and still not have to change the setup.

Going to a parallel config on the GPUs would also help a little as well, since you need every little bit you can get . . .

Darlene


----------



## Krazy Kanuck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> The way the dual top is being used configures the output from the worst possible port location with regards to restriction and bad 90 degree angles . . .
> 
> If possible, I'd temporarily run the output from the regular output port, the one facing up on the side edge of the top, and see if that gets you a better result.
> 
> You could also try going with D5 Strong pumps at 24V, that way you'd have a great deal more pumping power, and still not have to change the setup.
> 
> Going to a parallel config on the GPUs would also help a little as well, since you need every little bit you can get . . .
> 
> Darlene


Thank you for the reply and advice.

In hindsight this loop was flawed from the get-go, I've learned a lot of things over the last few weeks however. I did correct the outlet of the second pump pair, its exiting out the top and I'm not crushing the flow with an immediate 90. The top side pair I am not sure yet, I will look at rerouting it within the current setup.

Looking at the GPU blocks, if I were to add the second link between them I'm pretty sure it would just pass over the blocks... I guess I do not understand entirely, I read a few threads on pros & cons but the actual practice on implementing it escapes me. Adding more pipe to split the flow before the blocks would mean going back to cut more copper pipe and plate it; that would be a real setback that I am not sure I can deal with.

I found some diagrams that gave me some clarity on this, unfortunately it would mean adding new copper pipe.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Krazy Kanuck*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> The way the dual top is being used configures the output from the worst possible port location with regards to restriction and bad 90 degree angles . . .
> 
> If possible, I'd temporarily run the output from the regular output port, the one facing up on the side edge of the top, and see if that gets you a better result.
> 
> You could also try going with D5 Strong pumps at 24V, that way you'd have a great deal more pumping power, and still not have to change the setup.
> 
> Going to a parallel config on the GPUs would also help a little as well, since you need every little bit you can get . . .
> 
> Darlene
> 
> 
> 
> Thank you for the reply and advice.
> 
> In hindsight this loop was flawed from the get-go, I've learned a lot of things over the last few weeks however. I did correct the outlet of the second pump pair, its exiting out the top and I'm not crushing the flow with an immediate 90. The top side pair I am not sure yet, I will look at rerouting it within the current setup.
> 
> Looking at the GPU blocks, if I were to add the second link between them I'm pretty sure it would just pass over the blocks... I guess I do not understand entirely, I read a few threads on pros & cons but the actual practice on implementing it escapes me. Adding more pipe to split the flow before the blocks would mean going back to cut more copper pipe and plate it; that would be a real setback that I am not sure I can deal with.
> 
> I found some diagrams that gave me some clarity on this, unfortunately it would mean adding new copper pipe.
Click to expand...

Don't forget the option of going with D5 Strong pumps at 24V.

http://www.performance-pcs.com/koolance-pmp-450s-strong-high-flow-pump.html#Specifications

One step-up controller for each pump:

http://www.performance-pcs.com/koolance-ctr-spd1224m-12v-or-24v-pump-fan-controller.html


----------



## TheRedViper

Where does the vision module from their cryos kuplex next cpu cooler plugs into the aquaero 6?


----------



## TheAbyss

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *war4peace*
> 
> Could be your D5 goes above 200l/h.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *war4peace*
> 
> That's what I have in my system. It works very well.


I found out why the MPS 200 is only delivering water temperature... it´s actually build in reversed :-(..... anyway, what I´ll do is to test the Loop and "repair" it when I do some minor tweaks and after I have a list of "issues" i Need to resolve.. technical and cosmetic tweaks here and there...

Other than that, the System runs great. Did some stress and gaming sessions over the Weekend, water temp stays around 35 degrees after an hour of BF1, GPU 38 deg. CPU (undelidded) touches 50 deg. max.. not the most demaning title, but I tested with the games I´ll be running on this machine, and I think there is enough room for more demanding titles. Ambient temp around 25- 27 degrees. so about 8-10deg. Delta to ambient which fans on 80% (curve-controlled 1050RPM / 750RPM). A lot cooler and quieter than my old System.

After I got used to work with my AE6, I still have a question: How do I make the Aquasuite to Display my Default Screen to the Desktop from Startup? I run Aquasuite at Windows start, but I have to enable my aquasuite Screen overlay manually.


----------



## Mega Man

I'll have to show you later.

Do you want it to stay static on one screen or scroll through all?


----------



## Revan654

Was there a revision for Splitty9 recently? I had to get another Splitty9 & the housing is completely different compared to original ones I had. Not sure if Hubby7 got the same treatment or not.


----------



## war4peace

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheAbyss*
> 
> After I got used to work with my AE6, I still have a question: How do I make the Aquasuite to Display my Default Screen to the Desktop from Startup? I run Aquasuite at Windows start, but I have to enable my aquasuite Screen overlay manually.


Just lock the page and click the Desktop icon. I remember having done that and it works. The only issue I found was that it resets after finishing a Unigine Superposition benchmark but that might be because of the benchmark itself.


----------



## Phaedrus89

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> Was there a revision for Splitty9 recently? I had to get another Splitty9 & the housing is completely different compared to original ones I had. Not sure if Hubby7 got the same treatment or not.


I also received the same "revision" not that it matters for my purposes. Still rather curious there is no mention of this anywhere


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phaedrus89*
> 
> I also received the same "revision" not that it matters for my purposes. Still rather curious there is no mention of this anywhere


I'm guessing it's due to the fact that the backplate kept falling off(For those who used the Velcro). It's only held together by double sided tape.

I wonder if there any plans to sell/supply the new backs separately.


----------



## Krazy Kanuck

I've thrown in the towel I think for this build, or at least this iteration. I spent the last few nights bending new acrylic for the rear of the desk and I removed two drains that were nice to have but ultimately sapping some of my flow. I was able to replace nine of the 90 degree fittings with tube bends. It was nice see I've gotten a bit more proficient at bends, that's not to say its perfect, but it went a lot smoother this time around. I've also removed all the reservoir vortex things, I don't think they work as intended when horizontal anyways as I was getting vortexes at low reservoir levels. So hopefully these tweaks will get me above .75 gal/h, I think I could live with that.

Thanks again to everyone who pitched in ideas and advice.


----------



## becks

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Krazy Kanuck*


What size Acrylic are you using ? and from what brand ? and what silicon insert you use to bend it ?


----------



## TheAbyss

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *war4peace*
> 
> Just lock the page and click the Desktop icon. I remember having done that and it works. The only issue I found was that it resets after finishing a Unigine Superposition benchmark but that might be because of the benchmark itself.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> I'll have to show you later.
> 
> Do you want it to stay static on one screen or scroll through all?


Good morning,

Maybe I was to unspecific, I a custom Screen enabled (locked and displayed on Desktop), when the System is shut down. Next Startup, Aquasuite starts in Background, but the former Screen is not displayed automatically, but I have to toggle it back to Display mode. This is true when I start minimized in tray as well as non-minimized.

Mega Man, I only have a Primary Display, so static Display is what I Need.


----------



## war4peace

If you have MSI Afterburner, try disabling the RTSS (Riva Tuner Statistics Server) OSD altogether.


----------



## TheAbyss

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *war4peace*
> 
> If you have MSI Afterburner, try disabling the RTSS (Riva Tuner Statistics Server) OSD altogether.


I have indeed, but I thought that was fixed.. will try that, thanks! Slightly OT, but is it better then to use the EVGA tool?


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheAbyss*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *war4peace*
> 
> Just lock the page and click the Desktop icon. I remember having done that and it works. The only issue I found was that it resets after finishing a Unigine Superposition benchmark but that might be because of the benchmark itself.
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> I'll have to show you later.
> 
> Do you want it to stay static on one screen or scroll through all?
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Good morning,
> 
> Maybe I was to unspecific, I a custom Screen enabled (locked and displayed on Desktop), when the System is shut down. Next Startup, Aquasuite starts in Background, but the former Screen is not displayed automatically, but I have to toggle it back to Display mode. This is true when I start minimized in tray as well as non-minimized.
> 
> Mega Man, I only have a Primary Display, so static Display is what I Need.
Click to expand...

I am sorry, just to clarify you want it to stay on your monitors desktop.

Or on the screen of tree aquaero


----------



## Krazy Kanuck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *becks*
> 
> What size Acrylic are you using ? and from what brand ? and what silicon insert you use to bend it ?


I'm using the13mm ID/16mm OD Bitspower crystal link acrylic, I tried the monsoon but it was too small for the Bitspower multi-links, the pipe would blow out under 10psi in my leak test. I also used the bitspower silicone insert this time around versus the monsoon, it fit better as it was slightly smaller which made extracting it easier. I still had to resort to soap and water on a few double bends.


----------



## TheAbyss

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> I am sorry, just to clarify you want it to stay on your monitors desktop.
> 
> Or on the screen of tree aquaero


Hey, you are right, I did not even think of the AE Display, this is fine, the Screens rotate / scroll through normally. It´s the Desktop tha I mean.


----------



## Phaedrus89

So i got my build finalized and I'm going through the process of setting up aqua suite. Good news is all my devices are detected and reporting properly. Bad news is I'm still fumbling through menus after an hour or so trying to configure "my page" with live charts of sensors.

How do I get the chats I've made to not overlay each other? I've setup data sources and added the data to the chart. I've named it and saved the chart. I've then added this to my page. If i repeat the process by adding another data source, naming it and saving it, it just overlays the data on the same chart and creates a different X,Y axis. This is probably a really dumb question, but is there a way to add another chart? It looks as though all the data is being saved to a single chart despite me adding unique names and saving in between adding new data sources.


----------



## mouscous

Hi,

I am a new Aquaero user. I am really overwhelmed by all the information on this thread and am wondering if anyone can share links that are must-read guides/tutorials related to Aquaero 6? The manual is difficult to understand, and I have read that there are some discontinued ports on the Aquaero PCB. I am having trouble just searching for information and am hesitant to start new threads since I am sure people have covered these beginner issues.

I especially want to know about:

1. Discontinued ports on Aquaero 6 controller
2. Aquabus interface
3. Connecting Aquacomputer pumps, flow sensors and FARBWERK controller (I am guessing it will be answered by #1 and #2)
4. Pitfalls that must be avoided

Thanks a lot!


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mouscous*
> 
> Hi,
> 
> I am a new Aquaero user. I am really overwhelmed by all the information on this thread and am wondering if anyone can share links that are must-read guides/tutorials related to Aquaero 6? The manual is difficult to understand, and I have read that there are some discontinued ports on the Aquaero PCB. I am having trouble just searching for information and am hesitant to start new threads since I am sure people have covered these beginner issues.
> 
> I especially want to know about:
> 
> 1. Discontinued ports on Aquaero 6 controller
> 2. Aquabus interface
> 3. Connecting Aquacomputer pumps, flow sensors and FARBWERK controller (I am guessing it will be answered by #1 and #2)
> 4. Pitfalls that must be avoided
> 
> Thanks a lot!


I am laying in bed and cant get these links, you need to look for nams article I bet it is linked in the first post.

1 the aquabus Low port is dead

2 a.c.s network. That it's all it is.

3 using the aquabus, you can daisy chain them)

4 did not connect things wrong and energize them. You will break your aquaero.


----------



## war4peace

I am planning on doing a full review of the Aquaero + Farbwerk but right now I am on vacation an will be back towards the end of the month. Also I still need to investigate and understand certain advanced fu actions of Aquasuite.


----------



## BoredErica

Does anybody know how accurate the power draw readings are in Aquasuite? Current reading tends to die when going under 0.05 amps.


----------



## ruffhi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phaedrus89*
> 
> How do I get the chats I've made to not overlay each other?


You should be able to grab the charts and move them to separate / different locations. Note that the background might not follow the chart.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Darkwizzie*
> 
> Does anybody know how accurate the power draw readings are in Aquasuite? Current reading tends to die when going under 0.05 amps.


If you are talking about fan power draw, they should be very accurate.


----------



## Phaedrus89

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ruffhi*
> 
> You should be able to grab the charts and move them to separate / different locations. Note that the background might not follow the chart.


I feel like I am missing something so simple and dumb here.

I configured the log settings and added data sources

Go to the analyze data tab and add the sources configured in the log settings to the chart. I give the chart a name in the chart manager and save

Now if I go back and repeat this process and add another data source, it just adds it to the same chart you were previously using. Thus when you add that chart to "my page" it is just one data point overlayed on each other on the same graph. There has got to be a way to have one chart per data source...


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mouscous*
> 
> Hi,
> 
> I am a new Aquaero user. I am really overwhelmed by all the information on this thread and am wondering if anyone can share links that are must-read guides/tutorials related to Aquaero 6? The manual is difficult to understand, and I have read that there are some discontinued ports on the Aquaero PCB. I am having trouble just searching for information and am hesitant to start new threads since I am sure people have covered these beginner issues.
> 
> I especially want to know about:
> 
> 1. Discontinued ports on Aquaero 6 controller
> 2. Aquabus interface
> 3. Connecting Aquacomputer pumps, flow sensors and FARBWERK controller (I am guessing it will be answered by #1 and #2)
> 4. Pitfalls that must be avoided
> 
> Thanks a lot!


It's actually allot simpler then you think. Play around with the device a bit before you install it & you will learn a bit.

1. The low aquabus port is dead (I think Aqua-Computer have completely disabled it in there one firmware update).
2. You can use splitty9 to link a bunch of aquabus devices to one aquabus port. Also if your going to create your own aquabus cable there not 1:1 pin layout like a fan extension cable.
1 -> 4
2-> 3
3 -> 2
1 -> 4
3. See Above.

4. Here is some tips about fan Curves: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GoTcxBbwd3w

Singularity Computers has allot of guides on there YT on many topics. Well worth watching a few of them specially if your doing your own custom cables.

Don't forget to register your key when you install the software.


----------



## BoredErica

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> If you are talking about fan power draw, they should be very accurate.


Yes, that was what I was talking about, and thanks.


----------



## mouscous

Thanks so much; this is super helpful.
Quote:


> Also if your going to create your own aquabus cable there not 1:1 pin layout like a fan extension cable.
> 1 -> 4
> 2-> 3
> 3 -> 2
> 1 -> 4


I don't understand this piece. What do the number mappings imply?

For the connectivity piece, I will check out the Singularity Computers guide since it looks like that is covered in the guide (will watch it when I get home).

Again, can't thank you enough.


----------



## tadre1

Question can I install a ek-g2 d5 pump to the aero pro 6 on the high header. Already going to use all the fan headers. Thanks. I am ssuming plug the pwm from the pump to the high header and then connect pump power to psu?


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mouscous*
> 
> Thanks so much; this is super helpful.
> I don't understand this piece. What do the number mappings imply?
> 
> For the connectivity piece, I will check out the Singularity Computers guide since it looks like that is covered in the guide (will watch it when I get home).
> 
> Again, can't thank you enough.


Those are only if your going to create your own custom Aquabus cables, if your going to use the default ones that comes with the device, you can just ignore that bit you will not be dealing with that.


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tadre1*
> 
> Question can I install a ek-g2 d5 pump to the aero pro 6 on the high header. Already going to use all the fan headers. Thanks. I am ssuming plug the pwm from the pump to the high header and then connect pump power to psu?


This was covered before somewhere in this thread, I believe the answer was no. Aquabus connector on the AQ is not a straight PWM connection.


----------



## tadre1

Thanks


----------



## tadre1

Guess just plug pump into mb header then.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mouscous*
> 
> Thanks so much; this is super helpful.
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Also if your going to create your own aquabus cable there not 1:1 pin layout like a fan extension cable.
> 1 -> 4
> 2-> 3
> 3 -> 2
> 1 -> 4
> 
> 
> 
> I don't understand this piece. What do the number mappings imply?
> 
> For the connectivity piece, I will check out the Singularity Computers guide since it looks like that is covered in the guide (will watch it when I get home).
> 
> Again, can't thank you enough.
Click to expand...

Do not do this without Shoogy verifying. I was always told you use a basic 1 to 1 mapping ( same pin to same pin )

The numbers correlate to the pin, see the instructions iirc 1 is the " black " square pin the pin out on the sticker. That said VERIFY with the instructions.

I am sure it is a 1 to 1 pinout as you Can use the flow meter cable for 3 pin applications (ie those that get power from an external source)

Also if I am wrong it mis understanding himi think there is an error as there are 2 "1"s in the left column and 2 "4"s in the right
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *tadre1*
> 
> Question can I install a ek-g2 d5 pump to the aero pro 6 on the high header. Already going to use all the fan headers. Thanks. I am ssuming plug the pwm from the pump to the high header and then connect pump power to psu?
> 
> 
> 
> This was covered before somewhere in this thread, I believe the answer was no. Aquabus connector on the AQ is not a straight PWM connection.
Click to expand...

correct


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> Do not do this without Shoogy verifying. I was always told you use a basic 1 to 1 mapping ( same pin to same pin )
> 
> The numbers correlate to the pin, see the instructions iirc 1 is the " black " square pin the pin out on the sticker. That said VERIFY with the instructions.
> 
> I am sure it is a 1 to 1 pinout as you Can use the flow meter cable for 3 pin applications (ie those that get power from an external source)
> 
> Also if I am wrong it mis understanding himi think there is an error as there are 2 "1"s in the left column and 2 "4"s in the right
> correct


It's fine, I used one of Aquabus cables that came with my AQ6XT to make sure all wires were running to the correct connector slot.

It's not 1:1.


----------



## tadre1

Could an Ek-G2 pump be controlled by one of the 4 pin headers on the aqua 6 pro?


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> Do not do this without Shoogy verifying. I was always told you use a basic 1 to 1 mapping ( same pin to same pin )
> 
> The numbers correlate to the pin, see the instructions iirc 1 is the " black " square pin the pin out on the sticker. That said VERIFY with the instructions.
> 
> I am sure it is a 1 to 1 pinout as you Can use the flow meter cable for 3 pin applications (ie those that get power from an external source)
> 
> Also if I am wrong it mis understanding himi think there is an error as there are 2 "1"s in the left column and 2 "4"s in the right
> correct
> 
> 
> 
> It's fine, I used one of Aquabus cables that came with my AQ6XT to make sure all wires were running to the correct connector slot.
> 
> It's not 1:1.
Click to expand...

no. its not fine. even if you are right, and i am 100% you are not your line says this
Quote:


> 1 -> 4
> 2-> 3
> 3 -> 2
> 1 -> 4


but assuming the bottom one was supposed to be *4>1* and not 1-4

that would mean ( now i am home - see page 8/10 of the aquaero )


{ lets pretend you are setting up an aqlt to be a slave, that means you would connect aquabus ( high ) to aquabus (high) }

you are connecting
pin1 ( output from aquaero [main] ) ground to pin 4-5v ( usually an input but idk if the aquaero slave firmware changes this ) of the slave - short. and possible damage to aquaero ( either - or probably just the main )
pin 2 sda to pin3 scl ( i dont know if this will damage anything )
pin3 scl to pin 2 sda ( i dont know if this will damage anything )
and again pin4 +5v *output* to pin 1 ground --- this will cause a short !!!!!!!!!!!!

now if connecting to a normal 4 pin aquabus device pin 4 is NOT an output, but an input .... all that said it depends on the firmware and capabilities of the slave aquaero, can they turn that 4th pin into an input ? or does it stay output, if it just stays output ( as it wont hurt anything under normal conditions ) you will have 2 shorts. so no, sorry 100% wrong

for further confirmation


(source)

the wires do not flip_*

you could of just caused someone else to loose hardware please be careful of the advice you give, if you are not accurate you can cause irreparable damage
*_
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tadre1*
> 
> Could an Ek-G2 pump be controlled by one of the 4 pin headers on the aqua 6 pro?


one of the 4 - four pin PWM fan headers ! ( note not the 2-two pin pwm headers ) can yes


----------



## tadre1

Got it. Thanks


----------



## iamjanco

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> ...please be careful of the advice you give, if you are not accurate you can cause irreparable damage


This is worth reiterating for everyone's sake. Thanks, MM.







(repped)


----------



## mouscous

Hi Mega Man,

I won't be building my own cables (this is my first build, so I want to focus on the aquaero and the loop), but it would be helpful to understand this if I end up making cables later.


----------



## mouscous

Quote:


> Those are only if your going to create your own custom Aquabus cables, if your going to use the default ones that comes with the device, you can just ignore that bit you will not be dealing with that.


Sounds good. I am not planning on sleeving/making my own cables for this first build (I have my hands full with the loop and the Aquaero







), but I hope to learn eventually.


----------



## tadre1

Can you split 1 4 pin fan header into two fans and a pump? Or is that too much power draw on one header? On a pro 6.


----------



## Mega Man

depends on the pumps and fans i have some fans you cant put 2 on a single channel and others that wont be able to take 1, others still that it could power 20.

it is all about the power draw ( amps/watts ) now if they are pwm they can get their power directly from the psu. and bypass the aquaero


----------



## tadre1

Plan was to split Fan: 1 with 3 Vardar ER 120 pwm Fan 2: 3 120 Corsair ML Pro Led pwm Fan 3: 2 Bitfenix Spectre Pro 140 pwm and Fan 4 : 2 Bitfenix Spectre Pro 140 pwm. Or will this cause an overload to trip?


----------



## Windeh

Spot the AC Computer Monitoring & Control System inside an Phanteks Evolv ATX!


----------



## Ashcroft

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> It's actually allot simpler then you think. Play around with the device a bit before you install it & you will learn a bit.
> 
> 2. You can use splitty9 to link a bunch of aquabus devices to one aquabus port. Also if your going to create your own aquabus cable there not 1:1 pin layout like a fan extension cable.
> 1 -> 4
> 2-> 3
> 3 -> 2
> 1 -> 4
> 3. See Above.


Where did that come from? It's not right. Aquabus cables are just normal fan cables. I use ordinary modmytoys 4pin PWM female to female cables and splitter boards among with cables I made myself and they work just fine.
It's a straight 1 to 1 pin assignment.

I assume you must have just been looking at the orientation of the connector wrongly and confused the layout.


----------



## Phaedrus89

Silly question for aquasuite users. Does anyone know how to get the desktop view mode of my aquasuite page onto a second or third monitor? Or does it just default to the windows main?


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> snip


I was going by housing numbers & such. Like when creating a EPS cable (There 1:1). The wire leaves slot 1 on the one side but it enters the fourth slot on the other side. I hope that make sense. I tend to flip some of the housing around.

The wiring is still 1:1.

It may be a bit of bad wording on my side, I wasn't clearly thinking when I created the post due to be tired at the time.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ashcroft*
> 
> Where did that come from? It's not right. Aquabus cables are just normal fan cables. I use ordinary modmytoys 4pin PWM female to female cables and splitter boards among with cables I made myself and they work just fine.
> It's a straight 1 to 1 pin assignment.
> 
> I assume you must have just been looking at the orientation of the connector wrongly and confused the layout.


As I already said I'm going by housing numbers & sometimes I have to flip it around. The wiring it self is still 1:1.


----------



## Mega Man

ok, sorry i just didnt want someone to blow up an aquero unnecessarily


----------



## WhellchairNinja

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phaedrus89*
> 
> Silly question for aquasuite users. Does anyone know how to get the desktop view mode of my aquasuite page onto a second or third monitor? Or does it just default to the windows main?


Yes, when you edit the page, you can use the scroll bar at the bottom, to view other screens. Mark all your gauges while holding down Ctrl, and move the to where you want them =)


----------



## Phaedrus89

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WhellchairNinja*
> 
> Yes, when you edit the page, you can use the scroll bar at the bottom, to view other screens. Mark all your gauges while holding down Ctrl, and move the to where you want them =)


\

Thank you! So obvious now


----------



## Phaedrus89

So weird issue has popped up. My D5 use was running along just fine in aquasuite, detected as a D5 pump in the aquaero menu and displaying its speed signal value to my desktop without issue.

All of a sudden tonight I went to start configuring fan curves and notice my graph stopped showing my tach signal from the pump. The pump is still running 100%, temps and flow is fine.

I then noticed that the MPS menu has showed up and an MPS device in the license menu has appeared with a serial number for a product I do not have! I checked all my original boxes and can confirm the D5, splitty 9's, AQ6LT and Hubby7 all do not have this serial number it sees.
I did a reset on everything. Completely removed the auqasuite software and settings. Disconnected the molex from the the AQ6LT with the computer off for 1 minute then reconnected everything to it and powered it back on, reinstalled the software and I get the same results.

My setup:



I've tried disconnecting the High header and tried various USB headers and saw no difference.

Any ideas?


----------



## Mega Man

You will need @Shoggy


----------



## Phaedrus89

Thank you for tagging him. For now I will use the values its presents as an MPS sensor. They are all still accurate. Just very strange that its being detected the way it is.
It is okay for the USB and aquabus to be connected at the same time with this setup, correct?


----------



## Mega Man

yes


----------



## Phaedrus89

Just some additional info on the problem. While diagnosing various USB device issue I came across this:

Windows is detecting this as an MPS device which would explain why aquasuite is as well.



Uninstalling from devmgmt and reinstalling, windows still detects the device as an MPS and not the D5 it use to.
Hooking the D5 5pin USB directly to a mobo header yields the same results.


----------



## BoredErica

Can I extend the cable of whatever water temperature sensor I have? (With my 22awg wire) I heard they work off resistance and if it's off the readings will be off. Maybe to calibrate I could have a bowl of water at room temperature? I have two room thermometers.

Quick word on Aquaero heatsink: I think it's a good buy. It looks better. No more ugly sticker, and the etchings on the heatsink won't be lost and are clear. Nice little thing.

I was considering the Aquacomputer MPS400? flow sensor, but its calibration profiles don't include one for 1/2 inch ID tubing, so I would need different sized tubing. Overall it would just be a hassle. I heard for a design like this, it would read more accurately with laminar flow, several inches of tubing to and from the sensor.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Darkwizzie*
> 
> Can I extend the cable of whatever water temperature sensor I have? (With my 22awg wire) I heard they work off resistance and if it's off the readings will be off. Maybe to calibrate I could have a bowl of water at room temperature? I have two room thermometers.
> 
> Quick word on Aquaero heatsink: I think it's a good buy. It looks better. No more ugly sticker, and the etchings on the heatsink won't be lost and are clear. Nice little thing.
> 
> I was considering the Aquacomputer MPS400? flow sensor, but its calibration profiles don't include one for 1/2 inch ID tubing, so I would need different sized tubing. Overall it would just be a hassle. I heard for a design like this, it would read more accurately with laminar flow, several inches of tubing to and from the sensor.


You can extend temp sensor cables with no problem.

The sensors are 10K ohm at 25C, so the tiny fraction of an ohm from a few feet or so of extra copper wire is imperceptible.

Just be sure to either solder or crimp the connections.

Twisting the wires together is a bit iffy, once they start to oxidize and loosen up over time.


----------



## BoredErica

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> You can extend temp sensor cables with no problem.
> 
> The sensors are 10K ohm at 25C, so the tiny fraction of an ohm from a few feet or so of extra copper wire is imperceptible.
> 
> Just be sure to either solder or crimp the connections.
> 
> Twisting the wires together is a bit iffy, once they start to oxidize and loosen up over time.


I will just solder. I thought maybe if I didn't solder very well the resistance will change or something.

Thanks for the reply.


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Darkwizzie*
> 
> Can I extend the cable of whatever water temperature sensor I have? (With my 22awg wire) I heard they work off resistance and if it's off the readings will be off. Maybe to calibrate I could have a bowl of water at room temperature? I have two room thermometers.
> 
> Quick word on Aquaero heatsink: I think it's a good buy. It looks better. No more ugly sticker, and the etchings on the heatsink won't be lost and are clear. Nice little thing.
> 
> I was considering the Aquacomputer MPS400? flow sensor, but its calibration profiles don't include one for 1/2 inch ID tubing, so I would need different sized tubing. Overall it would just be a hassle. I heard for a design like this, it would read more accurately with laminar flow, several inches of tubing to and from the sensor.


Yes, I have extended mine with 22 AWG wiring using Molex Branded terminals(You will also need to crimp the water probe cable too).

The male Dupont terminal (OEM version), not allot of places sell them. In the US I only found PrimoChill store to sell them.

You can also solder the wire, the strands are very thin (I think the wiring is only 28 AWG).


----------



## hadesfactor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Darkwizzie*
> 
> I will just solder. I thought maybe if I didn't solder very well the resistance will change or something.
> 
> Thanks for the reply.


You could use a set like this:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01IKC8NOY/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I used 24G stranded ....that way if you want to remove the ext down the road you can. I used heat shrink over the connectors as to not loosen up over time and used some cable sleeving to dress it up nice.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phaedrus89*
> 
> Just some additional info on the problem. While diagnosing various USB device issue I came across this:
> 
> Windows is detecting this as an MPS device which would explain why aquasuite is as well.
> 
> 
> 
> Uninstalling from devmgmt and reinstalling, windows still detects the device as an MPS and not the D5 it use to.
> Hooking the D5 5pin USB directly to a mobo header yields the same results.


it is an mps device, i would recommend hitting up shoggy


----------



## viperguy212

Hey guys, I've had my aquaero 6 LT usb running for about 3 weeks and all was great... that is untill tonight.

Come home and run the rig on to only find 1 / 4 fan channels running. All were previously configured as PWM, curves set, working great. I rechecked all wiring, took everything apart a few times, ultimately nothing.

The fans upon boot will wiggle for .5 sec and then nothing. I tired each channel individually as well and nothing.

Am I screwed here? (aka rma time)

Thanks!

Edit: I've been staring at Aquacomputer with everything pluged in and it looks like the fans will come on for a few seconds, it'll display the RPM, and then shut off. Repeat.

I have no idea whats going on.


----------



## GTXJackBauer

Have you checked the temps to the channels?


----------



## viperguy212

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GTXJackBauer*
> 
> Have you checked the temps to the channels?


Yep, all 3 of my temp sensors appear perfectly fine.

I've been playing around with the unit on and my 4th channel now appears to be working but 1-3 are dead.

It also appears like the red LED on the Aquaero is flickering almost. I don't know if it was always like that or not.

I have also swapped my PSU cable for the molex cable. No dice. I may try to swap the PSU and see what happens. It almost seems like the unit isn't getting enough power but meanwhile my entire rig works perfectly fine.

To add another level of weird.. my Corsair K70 seemly forgot the RGB profile I had on on it and defaulted to stock. Doesn't sound related at all obviously but it occurred at the same time...


----------



## Shoggy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phaedrus89*
> 
> So weird issue has popped up. My D5 use was running along just fine in aquasuite, detected as a D5 pump in the aquaero menu and displaying its speed signal value to my desktop without issue.
> 
> All of a sudden tonight I went to start configuring fan curves and notice my graph stopped showing my tach signal from the pump. The pump is still running 100%, temps and flow is fine.
> 
> I then noticed that the MPS menu has showed up and an MPS device in the license menu has appeared with a serial number for a product I do not have! I checked all my original boxes and can confirm the D5, splitty 9's, AQ6LT and Hubby7 all do not have this serial number it sees.
> I did a reset on everything. Completely removed the auqasuite software and settings. Disconnected the molex from the the AQ6LT with the computer off for 1 minute then reconnected everything to it and powered it back on, reinstalled the software and I get the same results.
> 
> My setup:
> 
> 
> 
> I've tried disconnecting the High header and tried various USB headers and saw no difference.
> 
> Any ideas?


A mps tab can only appear when your pump is connected via USB. So in other words: if you never had this tab before, then you had a problem with the USB connection - otherwise this tab would have been there right from the start. By the way, the D5 pump is a mps device. The mps controller board serves as base for different devices.

You should check the configuration tab of the device an make sure that the device type is set to D5 pump. In the systam tab the communication priority should be set to aquabus and if you use other mps devices you have to make sure that all of them use a unique aquabus ID. You can change this ID number in the same tab.

The serial number that you mention is only stored to the memory of each device. This number is not printed anywere. Whatever you thing you have checked there: the boxes do not show the serial number. There is only the order number and EAN code (always the same for a specific product).


----------



## Phaedrus89

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> A mps tab can only appear when your pump is connected via USB. So in other words: if you never had this tab before, then you had a problem with the USB connection - otherwise this tab would have been there right from the start. By the way, the D5 pump is a mps device. The mps controller board serves as base for different devices.
> 
> You should check the configuration tab of the device an make sure that the device type is set to D5 pump. In the systam tab the communication priority should be set to aquabus and if you use other mps devices you have to make sure that all of them use a unique aquabus ID. You can change this ID number in the same tab.
> 
> The serial number that you mention is only stored to the memory of each device. This number is not printed anywere. Whatever you thing you have checked there: the boxes do not show the serial number. There is only the order number and EAN code (always the same for a specific product).


Thanks Shoggy!
In fact I was having a whole host of USB/Driver related issue. It would appear that fixing them is what caused aquasuite to work correctly and detect the device as MPS which I had not seen before. Previously when it was being recognized incorrectly due to USB host configuration issues, it showed as a D5 from the Aquaero Pump menu. I got concerned when it disappeared and a new MPS device menu appeared. The device tab is set as a D5 now and a unique ID has been set. All the readings seems good. I likely have confused the 5 digits printed in large bold text on the white label of each box with the last 5 digits of the S/N.
Its reassuring knowing that everything is in good shape!


----------



## Shoggy

Your internal temperatur seems to make no sense >>> 13°C?









Pleae note that the pump has no integrated temperaturer sensor for the coolant.


----------



## Phaedrus89

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Your internal temperatur seems to make no sense >>> 13°C?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Pleae note that the pump has no integrated temperaturer sensor for the coolant.


I have no idea how or why its reporting it. Apparently there is a built in phase changer on the pump









Is the pump itself suppose to report its temp with this sensor?


----------



## Shoggy

As mentioned before the controller board is also used for other devices like the flow sensors that can read the coolant temperature since the case is designed in a way so that the senor tip can pick up the temperature. The controller board in the pump also has the sensor but it is not used nor does it touch anything. Since this sensor is also not calibrated it can show weird values like in your case. You can ignore that value and should remove it from the overview since it does not serve any useful purpose.


----------



## Phaedrus89

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> As mentioned before the controller board is also used for other devices like the flow sensors that can read the coolant temperature since the case is designed in a way so that the senor tip can pick up the temperature. The controller board in the pump also has the sensor but it is not used nor does it touch anything. Since this sensor is also not calibrated it can show weird values like in your case. You can ignore that value and should remove it from the overview since it does not serve any useful purpose.


Thank you, I have removed it.

Now to figure out why PWM 1 & 2 headers are no loner powering my LEDs....Multimeter doesn't show them putting out 12v anymore


----------



## Shoggy

A Multimeter might not work correctly because of the pulsed signal. Well, if it work before and now both ports seems to be dead, than it is likely a problem with the controller board.


----------



## Phaedrus89

Yes, they were working before. Powering 3.3v LED's that I have resistors soldered onto so they work off of 12v.
I have them plugged onto spare splitty9 headers (pin 1&2) which seem to be doing the trick providing 12v. Kind of a hack job.
Might have to bust out the oscilloscope to see what the PWM signal looks like.


----------



## Revan654

Quick Question: With the hubby7 is there a point to switch to Sata power over normal version after so many USB devices are connected?


----------



## Phaedrus89

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> Quick Question: With the hubby7 is there a point to switch to Sata power over normal version after so many USB devices are connected?


IIRC the manual says that it would depend on what devices if any, that require power from the Hubby. 500mAh total from all ports when in USB power mode.
Sata power mode I believe can supply 1000mAh to the connected devices. You'd have to consult the manual for how its divided up amongst the headers.
For devices drawing power elsewhere and just using the hubby for data connectivity I dont see a reason to use SATA.
It would also depend on whether or not you care about certain components remaining on during standby mode etc.


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phaedrus89*
> 
> IIRC the manual says that it would depend on what devices if any, that require power from the Hubby. 500mAh total from all ports when in USB power mode.
> Sata power mode I believe can supply 1000mAh to the connected devices. You'd have to consult the manual for how its divided up amongst the headers.
> For devices drawing power elsewhere and just using the hubby for data connectivity I dont see a reason to use SATA.
> It would also depend on whether or not you care about certain components remaining on during standby mode etc.


I have the following devices, all are Aqua-Computer connected devices if that matters.

Hubby7 1: PowerAdjust (x3), AQ6XT & Flow Meter
Hubby 7 2: Vision Blocks (x2) & D5 Aquabus Pumps (x2)


----------



## Phaedrus89

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> I have the following devices, all are Aqua-Computer connected devices if that matters.
> 
> Hubby7 1: PowerAdjust (x3), AQ6XT & Flow Meter
> Hubby 7 2: Vision Blocks (x2) & D5 Aquabus Pumps (x2)


I would venture to guess without looking at the specific power requirements that you would likely want to use SATA power on your Hubby7 if youre connecting all those devices. Someone else please correct me if I'm wrong. Either way there would be no harm in doing so. The devices will only draw as much power as they require. I just don't know what your total power draw would be without knowing all the specs.


----------



## TheAbyss

I do not
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phaedrus89*
> 
> I would venture to guess without looking at the specific power requirements that you would likely want to use SATA power on your Hubby7 if youre connecting all those devices. Someone else please correct me if I'm wrong. Either way there would be no harm in doing so. The devices will only draw as much power as they require. I just don't know what your total power draw would be without knowing all the specs.


I do not know about the Visions Blocks, but other than that, only the flow meter is powered by USB, rest is only data Transmission.


----------



## WhellchairNinja

Anyone here know if there are calibration for mps400 and 3/8"ID - 5/8"OD hose with barrow fittings?


----------



## lovan6

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WhellchairNinja*
> 
> Anyone here know if there are calibration for mps400 and 3/8"ID - 5/8"OD hose with barrow fittings?


Read post 154.

http://www.overclock.net/t/1501978/ocn-community-water-cooling-test-thread/150#post_22685682


----------



## tadre1

Does the aquaero 6 pro have to be plugged into mobo before I can use the pwm mode to control pwm fans? I surely can't get it to work outside my case as in testing. New unit ... just learning how to adjust fans, pumps, and such.


----------



## tadre1

I figured it out ... thanks.


----------



## bfedorov11

When I setup a curve controller graph, what is the vertical that you can slide back and forth? It doesn't seem to do anything.


----------



## Bogga

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bfedorov11*
> 
> When I setup a curve controller graph, what is the vertical that you can slide back and forth? It doesn't seem to do anything.


A bit slower or faster ramp up speed for the fans?


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bfedorov11*
> 
> When I setup a curve controller graph, what is the vertical that you can slide back and forth? It doesn't seem to do anything.


you have to use auto setup


----------



## Ashcroft

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bfedorov11*
> 
> When I setup a curve controller graph, what is the vertical that you can slide back and forth? It doesn't seem to do anything.


If you mean the vertical red line it is the startup temp.


----------



## B3L13V3R

Hey everyone! Just looking to start a conversation about performance measurement here, as a checkup for the new upgrades, which are:

- Aquacomputer Airplex 480 (this is the only rad configured for push only)
- EK Vardar ER fans for rad and case intakes.
- EK RVE Monoblock
- Water block installed on the Aquaero (I added it back on because the temps on the fan amps were hitting 75C when they were working harder. They don't crack 45C now)

Here's a reference pic of the system:



And here are the idle temps for cooling system (primary focus for now):



I average a 15500 (http://www.3dmark.com/spy/2252052) score for TimeSpy and wonder if these temps (below) look good for for a single 480 based on the above results. I'm still not good with the math of water cooling yet and would like to know how to measure it better using the Aquaero.


----------



## GTXJackBauer

Temps don't look bad at all. Not sure what that TMPIN6 92c is all about. Your primary focus should be full load. That's where your cooling loop will shine or not but from the looks of it, you should be ok.


----------



## BoredErica

Is there any way to have an overwrite profile? I want the fans and pump to obey the curve most of the time, but say if I wanted to bench seriously, I want everything to max. Or maybe I want a mining profile just for that... So an easy "Mining profile overwrite switch", and I can hit the switch again and it goes back to the curve without having to juggle settings and change curves, etc.


----------



## Mega Man

Yes, but i would have to be home to show you how. And probably to busy today


----------



## Shoggy

You can manage four different profiles in the system tab and also change them quite easy but there is no toggle or something like that so easily switch back and forth between a profile with just one mouse click.


----------



## war4peace

Are you thinking of opening up an API for Aquasuite in the future? Like something that would allow toggling profiles from third-party software?


----------



## Shoggy

No, that will be integrated directly to the aquasuite in the future.


----------



## war4peace

Wonderful. Thank you.
I am thinking about the possibility of switching between profiles through alarms. E.g my machine is rendering a job and wife turns off air conditioning because she is cold and I'm at work. Switching to all-new profile and back once ambient goes below a threshold would be awesome.


----------



## Costas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *war4peace*
> 
> Switching to all-new profile and back once ambient goes below a threshold would be awesome.


This is very easy to do and I use this method to seamlessly switch profiles as my delta temp changes past a trigger point..

Have a look at the 'Alarm Actions' tab. In there you can load various profiles as each alarm event is triggered.

The 'Alarm Configuration' tab is where you set the actual triggers to activate the actual alarm condition.

Don't forget to set triggers and actions in the profile you switch to so that you can return to the original profile when the alarm condition clears etc.


----------



## Shoggy

Like Costas says: this is already possible. Take care when setting the values for jumping back and forth between the profiles. We had a customer in the past who used some stupid values which caused the aquaero to switch all the time


----------



## war4peace

Correct, I was thinking more in the line of "profile 1 applies settings of profile 2 and then reverts to its own settings when trigger X is tripped" instead of "profile 1 passes control to profile 2 which passes it back when trigger X is tripped". My logic can be weird sometimes


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Ive got an Aquaero 6 Freebie giveaway in celebration of the Near Completion of the S3 With Pedestal. Feel free to join and make sure you read the OP.












TCO


----------



## jokrik

Hey guys,

I love AC water cooling stuff (been exclusively use their waterblocks), but all these "I love Aquaero!" got me curious, I still have so much to learn but what's the point of learning without having the stuff right next to me to experiment

unfortunately shipping cost so much for me and I'd like to make it a one time checkout

thinking to start with controlling my pump, fans, and some sensors

Am I in the right direction with my order?


----------



## war4peace

While you're at this you could dip into RGB and buy a Farbwerk and some LED strips with cables and connectors. You also might want to get that USB extender they have... I am on mobile so can't look it up easily.


----------



## jokrik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *war4peace*
> 
> While you're at this you could dip into RGB and buy a Farbwerk and some LED strips with cables and connectors. You also might want to get that USB extender they have... I am on mobile so can't look it up easily.


I might skip the RGB since I'm connecting it straight to my motherboard so it sync up with my motherboard lighting

Also I won't need the usb extender since it will be installed near the usb connector (PSU Cover)
Though this makes me wonder, since I will be installing HUBBY7 and the three slots will be occupied by 3 visions

Would it work if I chain two HUBBY7?


----------



## Mega Man

1 you dont need The acrylic glass unless you damage yours.

2 yes the hubby is just a USB hub, instead of a USB connector, it uses internal header

You can daisy chain them quite abit


----------



## Revan654

with you bring up the hubby7, not sure if this has been answered before or not. Is Sata power needed if I attach the following devices?

One : AQ6XT, Power Adjust 3 Ultra (x3), FlowMeter 400
Two: D5 Pump (x2), Vision GPU Block (x2)

One Side note, I might add Farbwerk. Not 100% sure right now.

Motherboard: Asus Rampage V Extreme Edition 10


----------



## Shoggy

The aquaero display glass cover in the list is for the PRO version and is not compatible to the XT version. The product name already explains that


----------



## jokrik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> 1 you dont need The acrylic glass unless you damage yours.
> 
> 2 yes the hubby is just a USB hub, instead of a USB connector, it uses internal header
> 
> You can daisy chain them quite abit


Thx good sir for clearing this up, looking forward to work on my setup


----------



## war4peace

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jokrik*
> 
> I might skip the RGB since I'm connecting it straight to my motherboard so it sync up with my motherboard lighting


The Farbwerk greatly expandsa your visual signal capabilities. It's not "just" a RGB controller, it's a RGB controller which works in conjunction with the aquaero and can change stripe colors based on sensors, for example.
I have one and played with it a bit, will ultimately use it in my new build to show colors based on GPU, CPU and liquid temperature and also liquid flow rate. I will mount short strips (3-6 LEDs each) in a small acrylic enclosure attached to my case front and be able to see basic info about my system by just looking at it.


----------



## Mega Man

Btw Shoogy, any plans for a addressable farbwerk?

Another idea is to have one that takes the inputs (from say a motherboard and can either clone the signal or if certain conditions are met Don something else)


----------



## war4peace

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> Btw Shoogy, any plans for a addressable farbwerk?


Yes please, I'd buy one right now if it existed.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> Another idea is to have one that takes the inputs (from say a motherboard and can either clone the signal or if certain conditions are met Don something else)


I have not played a lot with my Farbwerk (I am redoing my build and it's disconnected) but I think Aquasuitecan already take care of that.


----------



## Mega Man

No, they can't. I was talking about the rgb header


----------



## war4peace

Oh I see.
It's kind of difficult to do so, not necessarily for any ONE given solution, but think about the variety of standards in this area.
Even for a software solution (API between the motherboard software and Aquasuite) - there is no standardization and compatibility with all manufacturers is a huge effort.

I'd love to have that as well but I realize it's a MAJOR PITA


----------



## Leonko

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> Btw Shoogy, any plans for a addressable farbwerk?


sorry but what does it mean? i dont understand


----------



## Mega Man

No, it's not.

12v, r, g, b.

One standard. One header. Just a binary input

Unless doing the new smart addressable leds.

Which is still standardized


----------



## war4peace

Uh... between RGB, RGBW and Addressable RGB, RGBW, not to mention PWM-based LEDs and the more rare 6-pin RGB LEDs... I fail to see a standard.
MSI has the Mystic Light standard.
Asus have 12V-G-R-B;
Gigabyte have 12V-G-R-B-W;
NZXT Hue+ works with addressable LEDs; thy putting one into a motherboard, the WS2812B LEDs are not compatible.

"Standard is what standard does", to paraphrase a classic movie character


----------



## Mega Man

Heh. Please look, while i have not investigated all mobos. The mobos I have seen have 2 standards. Addressable and 12rgb.

Are there exceptions, yes. Do they make other led's, yes. If you were to go to ebay and look for RGB led Strips over 90% would either 12rgb and addressable. The vast majority would be 12rgb.

Now if it is 12grb and "you" as a aq user cant figure that out.... Then you shouldn't be using either the aq or less

Also the 12rgbw is not new, it adds white. Would stool work with 12rgb the same just would drop the "w"


----------



## war4peace

This is not about me or whether I can figure it out or not.
This is about Aquacomputer enhancing a product with maximum compatibility.
Now, you, personally, would be able to work with a limited compatibility implementation. I would too. Others might not.


----------



## Mega Man

your right, that is why the farbwerk exists, due to obviously _limited_ compatibility
i mean it _only_ supports 12rgb


----------



## hockeyboy1002

Aquasuite is not seeing my Aquaero 6 upon being opened. However, When installing aquasuite it identifies it as being connected. Any idea what to do?


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hockeyboy1002*
> 
> Aquasuite is not seeing my Aquaero 6 upon being opened. However, When installing aquasuite it identifies it as being connected. Any idea what to do?


have you installed the latest firmware?


----------



## muzammil84

looking for some advice:

I have Aquaero 5 lt, two 480 Monstas, 8 Enermqx Clusters(pwm, very low power draw), will add 3 Aerocool Dead silence fans(as case fans, they are 3 pin) and was thinking of getting 8 NB eloop B12-2(4 on each rad for push, Enermaxes for pull). How to connect it so Aquaero can handle it. I was going to have 8 Enermax in pwm mode on 4pin channel, 3 Aerocool on channel 3(3pin), 4 Eloops on channel 2 and 4 eloops on channel 1. I believe undervolting all three 3pin channels would put quite a bit of stress on Aquaero, I have a heatsink installed on it but I'm afraid this won't be enough(especially with eloops, very power hungry fans). Can put a water block on it if it would solve the problem. I was also considering some other fans(Noiseblocker XL2 or XLT but I have only one 4pin channel on Aquaero) as they are much cheaper and getting Aquaero 6 lt.that gives me 3 pwm headers but I'm unsure about these Nb XLT fans, not many reviews on them. What would be better solution? thx


----------



## war4peace

Get an Aquaero 6 LT and slave the Aquaero 5 LT to it.


----------



## hockeyboy1002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> have you installed the latest firmware?


I'm currently running firmware 2003, and I installed the latest aquasuite. How would I update the aquaero firmware? My aquaero isn't appearing at all within aquasuite, but aquasuite sees it when installing.


----------



## muzammil84

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *war4peace*
> 
> Get an Aquaero 6 LT and slave the Aquaero 5 LT to it.


I really like eloops and getting 8 of them means no budget left for Aquaero 6
connecting everything to Aquaero 5 is not a big deal, my only concern is if it's gonna handle 3 channels undervolted to ~7V.


----------



## war4peace

AFAIK Aquaero only looks at power draw. My 6 LT says "this many watts per channel" and IIRC the 5 LT looks at total power draw for all channels, just make sure you don't go over that.


----------



## Revan654

I been going through the manuals & also trying to cut down on cables I need to solder & create Y or W cables. One thing I noticed both PowerAdjust 3 & D5 pump only use 12V DC & Ground. PowerAdjust uses two ground wires). None of them use the 5V wire.

Would be possible to wire these devices directly to my PCie slot on my GPU? I know the pump can since others have done it. I was wonder if poweradjust 3 would work the same way? My PSU have insane amount of pcie ports but not allot of Molex/Sata ports.

Link: http://aquacomputer.de/handbuecher.html?file=tl_files/aquacomputer/downloads/manuals/poweradjust_3_english_20161014.pdf
Link 2: http://aquacomputer.de/handbuecher.html?file=tl_files/aquacomputer/downloads/manuals/D5_english_20110627.pdf


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hockeyboy1002*
> 
> 
> I'm currently running firmware 2003, and I installed the latest aquasuite. How would I update the aquaero firmware? My aquaero isn't appearing at all within aquasuite, but aquasuite sees it when installing.


I know when I first started up for the first time it would not appear in AquaSuite. I had to go with system setting in aquasuite & hit check for updates. There also an option to run in admin too. If first does not work the second should work allowing you to use the first option.

If both fail contact AquaComputer & see if they can send you firmware update file. That way you can run it on the desktop.

It could also be Windows 10 just being a PIA once again.


----------



## JCArch

Hi all, is it possible to run a Splitty9 via the CPU header of a motherboard? I mounted it to the side of my MO-RA3 and realized there is no USB header on my Z97 Stinger to run to the Aquaero unit, so I wouldn't be able to change fan curves.


----------



## GTXJackBauer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JCArch*
> 
> Hi all, is it possible to run a Splitty9 via the CPU header of a motherboard? I mounted it to the side of my MO-RA3 and realized there is no USB header on my Z97 Stinger to run to the Aquaero unit, so I wouldn't be able to change fan curves.


You could possibly use this 3.0 to 2.0 adapter along with a HUBBY7 to give you ample room for your Aquaero and it's USB devices.

Plus, there's a good chance you might blow your CPU fan header if you tried plugging it with a big load of fans on a splitter. The standard limit for most MB fan headers is about 1 Amp.


----------



## JCArch

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GTXJackBauer*
> 
> You could possibly use this 3.0 to 2.0 adapter along with a HUBBY7 to give you ample room for your Aquaero and it's USB devices.
> 
> Plus, there's a good chance you might blow your CPU fan header if you tried plugging it with a big load of fans on a splitter. The standard limit for most MB fan headers is about 1 Amp.


Thanks for the advice! I think that is going to be my best shot. I did some reading last night and you're correct that the CPU fan header is 1 AMP. I figured I might be able to get away with it since I would keep the fans at a low RPM, but better safe than sorry.

Thanks again!


----------



## looniam

got a prize in the mail










Spoiler: Warning: potato pic!


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> I been going through the manuals & also trying to cut down on cables I need to solder & create Y or W cables. One thing I noticed both PowerAdjust 3 & D5 pump only use 12V DC & Ground. PowerAdjust uses two ground wires). None of them use the 5V wire.
> 
> Would be possible to wire these devices directly to my PCie slot on my GPU? I know the pump can since others have done it. I was wonder if poweradjust 3 would work the same way? My PSU have insane amount of pcie ports but not allot of Molex/Sata ports.
> 
> Link: http://aquacomputer.de/handbuecher.html?file=tl_files/aquacomputer/downloads/manuals/poweradjust_3_english_20161014.pdf
> Link 2: http://aquacomputer.de/handbuecher.html?file=tl_files/aquacomputer/downloads/manuals/D5_english_20110627.pdf


12v is 12v is 12v...

That said i think it uses 5v for powering the MPS Portions I think
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JCArch*
> 
> Hi all, is it possible to run a Splitty9 via the CPU header of a motherboard? I mounted it to the side of my MO-RA3 and realized there is no USB header on my Z97 Stinger to run to the Aquaero unit, so I wouldn't be able to change fan curves.


You still can,

To answer your first question yes. It is just a fan splitter. But you need to not over exert the header.

But 1 you can change the curve via the display (assuming no lt) and 2 you can either get a USB to usb3 adapter or a USB header to us type a adapter


----------



## JCArch

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> You still can,
> 
> To answer your first question yes. It is just a fan splitter. But you need to not over exert the header.
> 
> But 1 you can change the curve via the display (assuming no lt) and 2 you can either get a USB to usb3 adapter or a USB header to us type a adapter


I have an LT. I originally had it tucked away hooked up to my motherboard no problem, but it's after downsizing to this motherboard that I've encountered this problem. Maybe I can use it as an excuse to go for an XT


----------



## Mega Man

It would be easier to get a USB gender changer and cheaper

Doing curves by the screen is doable, but difficult


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> 12v is 12v is 12v...
> 
> That said i think it uses 5v for powering the MPS Portions I think


The 5V for powerAdjust only comes into play with the Flow sensor according to the manual. I'm only using the powerAdjust for fans & nothing else.

PowerSupply:

Pin 1: +12 V
Pin 2: GND
Pin 3: GND
Pin 4: not connected

Flow Sensor:

Pin 1: GND
Pin 2: +5 V
Pin 3: Signal

USB Connector

Pin 1: +5 V(red)
Pin 2: D- (white)
Pin 3: D+ (green)
Pin 4: GND(black)
Pin 5: Not Used

I'm guessing the 5V is coming from motherboard with the USB connector.


----------



## Revan654

^ For anyone interested I got word back from Aqua-Computer. They said it's completely fine to run it to the PCie ports.


----------



## Shoggy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> I'm guessing the 5V is coming from motherboard with the USB connector.


The poweradjust has a voltage controller to generate the 5V from the 12V.


----------



## Mega Man

Again, 12vdc is 12vdc is 12vdc.

Electricity is electricity. You could run it from a car battery if you wanted

The 5vdc "generator" is interesting though


----------



## war4peace

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> Again, 12vdc is 12vdc is 12vdc.
> Electricity is electricity. You could run it from a car battery if you wanted


[pedantic]
...unless there's ripple, droop, too high of an amperage, etc.
[/pedantic]


----------



## cekim

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *war4peace*
> 
> [pedantic]
> ...unless there's ripple, droop, too high of an amperage, etc.
> [/pedantic]


Particularly because a car battery should be ~14V


----------



## Mega Man

sigh. No. You are not dealing with anything that is that picky.

Also most car batteries are around 13v and the alternator is 14.4v so it can charge (you charge at a higher voltage)

Which would not hurt the aquaero. As it had been used in cars in previous projects I have see


----------



## cekim

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> sigh. No. You are not dealing with anything that is that picky.
> 
> Also most car batteries are around 13v and the alternator is 14.4v so it can charge (you charge at a higher voltage)
> 
> Which would not hurt the aquaero. As it had been used in cars in previous projects I have see


It was a joke, but if your car battery is down to 13v, either it is dying or your alternator is suspect... get on that...









It's generally not a good idea to connect low-current devices directly to a car battery (or frankly anything that is not designed to handle really noisy power). Droop, spikes and profound noise are the norm in a car, so if you don't have proper isolation and regulation in your local circuit, "you're gonna have a bad time"TM.


----------



## MrStrat007

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JCArch*
> 
> Thanks for the advice! I think that is going to be my best shot. I did some reading last night and you're correct that the CPU fan header is 1 AMP. I figured I might be able to get away with it since I would keep the fans at a low RPM, but better safe than sorry.
> 
> Thanks again!


One thing to keep in mind as well is start-up current as all fans typically run at 100% when a computer first starts up and can draw much more current during both the start-up and high-rpm phase. A fan with a normal operating current of say 0.12 A could have a start-up current that's easily double its normal operating current (sometimes more, sometimes less depending on the fan), so with 8-9 fans on one header, even if you didn't blow it at low rpm while operating, the surge on turning on your PC almost certainly would.


----------



## JCArch

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrStrat007*
> 
> One thing to keep in mind as well is start-up current as all fans typically run at 100% when a computer first starts up and can draw much more current during both the start-up and high-rpm phase. A fan with a normal operating current of say 0.12 A could have a start-up current that's easily double its normal operating current (sometimes more, sometimes less depending on the fan), so with 8-9 fans on one header, even if you didn't blow it at low rpm while operating, the surge on turning on your PC almost certainly would.


Ah, that's right. I completely forgot about that. I'm glad I posted here first!


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrStrat007*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *JCArch*
> 
> Thanks for the advice! I think that is going to be my best shot. I did some reading last night and you're correct that the CPU fan header is 1 AMP. I figured I might be able to get away with it since I would keep the fans at a low RPM, but better safe than sorry.
> 
> Thanks again!
> 
> 
> 
> One thing to keep in mind as well is start-up current as all fans typically run at 100% when a computer first starts up and can draw much more current during both the start-up and high-rpm phase. A fan with a normal operating current of say 0.12 A could have a start-up current that's easily double its normal operating current (sometimes more, sometimes less depending on the fan), so with 8-9 fans on one header, even if you didn't blow it at low rpm while operating, the surge on turning on your PC almost certainly would.
Click to expand...

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JCArch*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *MrStrat007*
> 
> One thing to keep in mind as well is start-up current as all fans typically run at 100% when a computer first starts up and can draw much more current during both the start-up and high-rpm phase. A fan with a normal operating current of say 0.12 A could have a start-up current that's easily double its normal operating current (sometimes more, sometimes less depending on the fan), so with 8-9 fans on one header, even if you didn't blow it at low rpm while operating, the surge on turning on your PC almost certainly would.
> 
> 
> 
> Ah, that's right. I completely forgot about that. I'm glad I posted here first!
Click to expand...

Shoggy has posted a few times in this regard, that for the short time that that the hi-current condition exists on start up, that the A6 is able to handle it.

Leave yourself at least a little cushion based on run currents, and start up takes care of itself.


----------



## MrStrat007

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Shoggy has posted a few times in this regard, that for the short time that that the hi-current condition exists on start up, that the A6 is able to handle it.
> 
> Leave yourself at least a little cushion based on run currents, and start up takes care of itself.


The AQ6 can certainly handle it, the CPU fan header... Likely not so much!









But yes, if you're running an AQ6, start-up current won't an issue as the unit is designed to take this into account. If you're trying to run 8-9 fans off the CPU header, on the other hand, it will become an issue very quickly and likely burn out the header.


----------



## iamjanco

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Shoggy has posted a few times in this regard, that for the short time that that the hi-current condition exists on start up, that the A6 is able to handle it.
> 
> Leave yourself at least a little cushion based on run currents, and start up takes care of itself.


Yup. On a different note, how'd you guys in the VI make out (Irma wise)?


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iamjanco*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Shoggy has posted a few times in this regard, that for the short time that that the hi-current condition exists on start up, that the A6 is able to handle it.
> 
> Leave yourself at least a little cushion based on run currents, and start up takes care of itself.
> 
> 
> 
> Yup. On a different note, how'd you guys in the VI make out (Irma wise)?
Click to expand...

St Thomas and St John were decimated.

Tore the roof off the hospital and trashed the rest of it pretty badly, lost a lot of gov't buildings and massive damage to the resorts, schools, businesses and homes.

St John is still without communications and power, really bad there, and lack of comm has folks worried even more.

We didn't do too badly here on St Croix.

I'll be going home tonight after work for the first time since I came to work Tuesday morning.

I've been here at work for the duration and get to grab a bit of sleep at the resort across the street each night.

We were able to open for business as usual today, . . .

St John & St Thomas will be weeks for the least damaged and months, if at all, for the worst hit.

BVI got annihilated too, maybe even worse than St John in some places.

At least it's now down to a Cat 4, not that that's a lot of consolation to the folks in Florida, but it was at 185 mph, for the days that it ravaged the eastern Caribbean.


----------



## iamjanco

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> St Thomas and St John were decimated.
> 
> Tore the roof off the hospital and trashed the rest of it pretty badly, lost a lot of gov't buildings and massive damage to the resorts, schools, businesses and homes.
> 
> St John is still without communications and power, really bad there, and lack of comm has folks worried even more.
> 
> We didn't do too badly here on St Croix.
> 
> I'll be going home tonight after work for the first time since I came to work Tuesday morning.
> 
> I've been here at work for the duration and get to grab a bit of sleep at the resort across the street each night.
> 
> We were able to open for business as usual today, . . .
> 
> St John & St Thomas will be weeks for the least damaged and months, if at all, for the worst hit.
> 
> BVI got annihilated too, maybe even worse than St John in some places.
> 
> At least it's now down to a Cat 4, not that that's a lot of consolation to the folks in Florida, but it was at 185 mph, for the days that it ravaged the eastern Caribbean.


Horrible. But it's good to know you're not hurt.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iamjanco*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> St Thomas and St John were decimated.
> 
> Tore the roof off the hospital and trashed the rest of it pretty badly, lost a lot of gov't buildings and massive damage to the resorts, schools, businesses and homes.
> 
> St John is still without communications and power, really bad there, and lack of comm has folks worried even more.
> 
> We didn't do too badly here on St Croix.
> 
> I'll be going home tonight after work for the first time since I came to work Tuesday morning.
> 
> I've been here at work for the duration and get to grab a bit of sleep at the resort across the street each night.
> 
> We were able to open for business as usual today, . . .
> 
> St John & St Thomas will be weeks for the least damaged and months, if at all, for the worst hit.
> 
> BVI got annihilated too, maybe even worse than St John in some places.
> 
> At least it's now down to a Cat 4, not that that's a lot of consolation to the folks in Florida, but it was at 185 mph, for the days that it ravaged the eastern Caribbean.
> 
> 
> 
> Horrible. But it's good to know you're not hurt.
Click to expand...

Appreciate the concern,

We truly dodged the bullet on this one.


----------



## iamjanco

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Appreciate the concern,
> 
> We truly dodged the bullet on this one.


NP, it's what counts. You can always rebuild, and/or buy/build new computers, but it's pretty difficult to do either from six feet under (water or dirt). We are a resilient species, after all.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cekim*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> sigh. No. You are not dealing with anything that is that picky.
> 
> Also most car batteries are around 13v and the alternator is 14.4v so it can charge (you charge at a higher voltage)
> 
> Which would not hurt the aquaero. As it had been used in cars in previous projects I have see
> 
> 
> 
> It was a joke, but if your car battery is down to 13v, either it is dying or your alternator is suspect... get on that...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's generally not a good idea to connect low-current devices directly to a car battery (or frankly anything that is not designed to handle really noisy power). Droop, spikes and profound noise are the norm in a car, so if you don't have proper isolation and regulation in your local circuit, "you're gonna have a bad time"TM.
Click to expand...

Now that I am now omw home ill be doing a follow up on this
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *iamjanco*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> St Thomas and St John were decimated.
> 
> Tore the roof off the hospital and trashed the rest of it pretty badly, lost a lot of gov't buildings and massive damage to the resorts, schools, businesses and homes.
> 
> St John is still without communications and power, really bad there, and lack of comm has folks worried even more.
> 
> We didn't do too badly here on St Croix.
> 
> I'll be going home tonight after work for the first time since I came to work Tuesday morning.
> 
> I've been here at work for the duration and get to grab a bit of sleep at the resort across the street each night.
> 
> We were able to open for business as usual today, . . .
> 
> St John & St Thomas will be weeks for the least damaged and months, if at all, for the worst hit.
> 
> BVI got annihilated too, maybe even worse than St John in some places.
> 
> At least it's now down to a Cat 4, not that that's a lot of consolation to the folks in Florida, but it was at 185 mph, for the days that it ravaged the eastern Caribbean.
> 
> 
> 
> Horrible. But it's good to know you're not hurt.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Appreciate the concern,
> 
> We truly dodged the bullet on this one.
Click to expand...

Glad your ok. Wishing the best for Florida. Omw home now on the plane... can finally keep up with it


----------



## jsutter71

Flow 400 Failure

Has anyone had any experience with flow sensor failures? My flow 400 shows that it's connected through Aquabus, USB, and shows a temperature reading.. I recalibrated with a different USB cable on my laptop, verified the latest firmware, and reinstalled Aquasuite. Flow rate shows no flow. I'm using distilled water and haven't had any other system related issues. My typical flow rate is between 3.5 - 4.5 LPM.


----------



## Mega Man

Mine failed.


----------



## jura11

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jsutter71*
> 
> Flow 400 Failure
> 
> Has anyone had any experience with flow sensor failures? My flow 400 shows that it's connected through Aquabus, USB, and shows a temperature reading.. I recalibrated with a different USB cable on my laptop, verified the latest firmware, and reinstalled Aquasuite. Flow rate shows no flow. I'm using distilled water and haven't had any other system related issues. My typical flow rate is between 3.5 - 4.5 LPM.


Hi there

My is working erratically,once is showing correct values but sometimes will default to 399LPH and then starts to work again but again after few days will defaults to 399LPH and stays there for while

I have tried several times drain the loop and use different coolants like Mayhems X1 or Mayhems Pastel Red or EK CryoFuel and distilled water as well but this has happened with all of these coolants and due this I will remove my MPS400 and will probably get their high flow sensor not sure if its better than MPS400

Hope this helps

Thanks, Jura


----------



## war4peace

I have the mechanical high flow sensor working well 24/7 in my build. No hiccups so far.

http://www.overclock.net/products/aqua-computer-flow-sensor-high-flow-g1-4-for-aquaero


----------



## GTXJackBauer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jura11*
> 
> I will remove my MPS400 and will probably get their high flow sensor not sure if its better than MPS400


Can't go wrong with that. Reason why I went with the high flow sensor was because of the issues I've read about the others over time and honestly, the high flow isn't even that audible, at least on my end.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *war4peace*
> 
> I have the mechanical high flow sensor working well 24/7 in my build. No hiccups so far.
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/products/aqua-computer-flow-sensor-high-flow-g1-4-for-aquaero


Same here.


----------



## Costas

My MPS400 is working fine and has been for over a year now running in Glycol.

A few others have reported theirs going faulty. If not under warranty you can actually replace the sensor IC (its relatively cheap) if you are handy with a soldering iron as it looks like the sensor IC fails.

I also use the mechanical variant which I have in another PC and has been running fine now for over 2 years now. It's just noisy at high flow rates.

BTW - Here is a link for the actual IC that is used to sense the pressure.... https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/freescale-semiconductor-nxp/MP3V5004DP/MP3V5004DP-ND/2186178


----------



## Mega Man

Mine was a leak, at the gasket, internally.


----------



## jsutter71

I have a spare high flow sensor non USB version that I never used. I had second thoughts after some people's comments about the ticking noise. If the High flow USB is comparable to the flow 400 feature wise would that be a better option, or does it suffer from the same reliability issues? My flow 400 is still within the 2 year warranty but I won't keep using a piece of hardware that's unreliable.


----------



## war4peace

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jsutter71*
> 
> I have a spare high flow sensor non USB version that I never used. I had second thoughts after some people's comments about the ticking noise. If the High flow USB is comparable to the flow 400 feature wise would that be a better option, or does it suffer from the same reliability issues? My flow 400 is still within the 2 year warranty but I won't keep using a piece of hardware that's unreliable.


I was never able to hear mine. I can hear my Noctua fans at 900 RPM, I can hear my Phanteks 200mm fan at 500 RPM, and yes I can hear my pumps at 3000 RPM (whisper quiet) but the flow meter is dead silent.


----------



## Mega Man

Not unreliable, many people love it. Mine was used, who knows what happened before. It lasted a while to


----------



## GTXJackBauer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *war4peace*
> 
> I was never able to hear mine. I can hear my Noctua fans at 900 RPM, I can hear my Phanteks 200mm fan at 500 RPM, and yes I can hear my pumps at 3000 RPM (whisper quiet) but the flow meter is dead silent.


Yup, same thing here. I only hear my fans and pumps over any flow noise, if there was any. It's only audible when you're pushing your flow 1.5+GPM which you only need 1.0-1.5 GPM for a efficient flowing loop.


----------



## Dasandmancometh

Hey all, just got my rig up and running, every thing seems to be going good except for one thing. I'm trying to configure the "my Page" and I've added some stuff but it's not a nice and neat as it is on the other overview pages. Can someone tell me how to get the sensor/etc.. info. to look as good as it does on the other overview pages?

I've been adding using the "detailed data" menu. And it works, but it doesn't look as good.


----------



## Ashcroft

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jsutter71*
> 
> I have a spare high flow sensor non USB version that I never used. I had second thoughts after some people's comments about the ticking noise. If the High flow USB is comparable to the flow 400 feature wise would that be a better option, or does it suffer from the same reliability issues? My flow 400 is still within the 2 year warranty but I won't keep using a piece of hardware that's unreliable.


My mechanical high flow meter was never audible at normal flow rates around 4-6lpm and my 3 MPS pressure based flow meters have all worked flawlessly for the last 3 years. I always had the high flow mounted flat I guess though. Like any product you will have some instances of problems but they are relatively rare and you should have no issues normally.

The mechanical based meters are simpler in one sense because all they do is spin and count revs while the pressure based ones must be configured and changes to system pressure can influence them. On the other hand the pressure based models are solid state with no moving parts to wear.
I have found the pressure based ones to be very accurate and reliable for me and my uses. The Mechanical worked fine, I just didn't like having to run a dedicated cable all the way back to the Aquaero instead of just the Aquabus harness. The USB mechanical of course doesn't have that issue.

The way the pressure based models seal so the sensor can have access to the coolant without flooding the whole unit can be a little flaky. One of mine leaked from brand new. Once a good, well made seal is installed right ( I have seen at least three different versions over the years) it has worked great.


----------



## jsutter71

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ashcroft*
> 
> My mechanical high flow meter was never audible at normal flow rates around 4-6lpm and my 3 MPS pressure based flow meters have all worked flawlessly for the last 3 years. I always had the high flow mounted flat I guess though. Like any product you will have some instances of problems but they are relatively rare and you should have no issues normally.
> 
> The mechanical based meters are simpler in one sense because all they do is spin and count revs while the pressure based ones must be configured and changes to system pressure can influence them. On the other hand the pressure based models are solid state with no moving parts to wear.
> I have found the pressure based ones to be very accurate and reliable for me and my uses. The Mechanical worked fine, I just didn't like having to run a dedicated cable all the way back to the Aquaero instead of just the Aquabus harness. The USB mechanical of course doesn't have that issue.
> 
> The way the pressure based models seal so the sensor can have access to the coolant without flooding the whole unit can be a little flaky. One of mine leaked from brand new. Once a good, well made seal is installed right ( I have seen at least three different versions over the years) it has worked great.


I purchased a mechanical flow meter, USB version, which will arrive tomorrow. Fortunately I'm due a water change so it's not as big an issue with the replacement. Since it's just a swap out with the flow 400 I already have the cables in place needed for the connections.


----------



## jsutter71

Received my new flow meter today. Now for the fun part. Draining my loop and replacing the flow 400.


----------



## B3L13V3R

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jsutter71*
> 
> Received my new flow meter today. Now for the fun part. Draining my loop and replacing the flow 400.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Jelly!! That's my next purchase...


----------



## jura11

And my MPS400 flow sensor works again fine, showing correct flow etc

Few days ago again reverted to high value 399LPH but now is reading 214-270LPH for last 2 days

But still I will get USB high flow sensor which is on the way

Hope this helps

Thanks, Jura


----------



## muzammil84

another advice needed(asked similar things before but this time it's regarding aquaero 6):
8x NB eLoop B12-2(4 on each radiator push), 8x Enermax Cluster(4 on each rad pull). Enermax are pwm, eLoops are 3pin, I will slow down all fans to 600ish rpm, while PWM isn't a problem as I'll use a splitter with sata power delivery, I'm a bit concerned about eLoops. is there any difference if I connect 4 fans to one Aquaero header and 4 to another to connecting all 8 fans to one header?(they will be voltage controlled so running them at 7v will make Aquaero quite hot I guess). I have a heatsink for aquaero, is there any point in putting a water block on it or passive heatsink would bebe definitely enough?
thx


----------



## Shoggy

No problem with the aquaero 6. Also the passive heatsink is not required.


----------



## TheRedViper

Is the issue about d5 pumps not working with pwm control from the 4 fan ports fixed?


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheRedViper*
> 
> Is the issue about d5 pumps not working with pwm control from the 4 fan ports fixed?


It just depends on which D5 pump it is . . . . From what I recall . . .

All the AC PWM D5's work, right out of the box.

The EK G2 (gen2) D5's work, right out of the box.

All other PWM D5's, including the original first gen EK ones, need to have the Diva mod to work properly with the A6.


----------



## TheRedViper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> It just depends on which D5 pump it is . . . . From what I recall . . .
> 
> All the AC PWM D5's work, right out of the box.
> 
> The EK G2 (gen2) D5's work, right out of the box.
> 
> All other PWM D5's, including the original first gen EK ones, need to have the Diva mod to work properly with the A6.


I have the Aquacomputer D5. Both are but theyre the base pwm ones not the ones with the aquabus interface on the back.


----------



## Shoggy

Then it will work of course.


----------



## jsutter71

I just finished replacing my flow 400 with the High flow USB. My intent was to position it in the same spot as the flow 400. That did not go as planned because of it's size. I had to find a different spot trying my best to not move it further away because I didn't want to have to make new cables. I did unfortunately have to make new tubing because of the missing flow 400. Fortunately I have lot's of spare PETG tubing. After I had everything put in place I made the mistake of inserting one of my aquabus cables in the reverse direction on one of my pumps. Once I figured out what was wrong and reversed the cable it took me a while to restore the signal to the Aquaero. cutting and restoring power to the pump fixed the issue.

Original configuration with the flow 400


Drain ports make water changes much easier


The High flow USB in it's new spot


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheRedViper*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> It just depends on which D5 pump it is . . . . From what I recall . . .
> 
> All the AC PWM D5's work, right out of the box.
> 
> The EK G2 (gen2) D5's work, right out of the box.
> 
> All other PWM D5's, including the original first gen EK ones, need to have the Diva mod to work properly with the A6.
> 
> 
> 
> I have the Aquacomputer D5. Both are but theyre the base pwm ones not the ones with the aquabus interface on the back.
Click to expand...

The ones with the Aquabus connection are NOT PWM.

People are often thinking that they are, but they are not, and it can be confusing.

AC only has the one PWM D5, the one you have.

The D5's with the Aquabus connection are essentially D5 varios, with the little red speed adjuster potentiometer replaced with an electronically controlled potentiometer.


----------



## jokrik

I need some advices, kinda not sure what I'm doing

So firstly my plan was to control Fans through water temp and flow rate via aquaero

but then I find it become more complicated as the stuff has arrived, especially when VISION connection terminal for kryographics arrived

I realized that for the OLED display to display temp it requires a temp probe, unlike the cpu block which is built in (am I right?)

Now if yes, I would require one of these https://shop.aquacomputer.de/product_info.php?products_id=3590 right?

second question is I see from the manual, the VISION terminal can communicate with Aquaero, which cable connector do I need for that? and do I plug it in to the Sensors on the Aquaero?


----------



## jsutter71

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jokrik*
> 
> I need some advices, kinda not sure what I'm doing
> 
> So firstly my plan was to control Fans through water temp and flow rate via aquaero
> 
> but then I find it become more complicated as the stuff has arrived, especially when VISION connection terminal for kryographics arrived
> 
> I realized that for the OLED display to display temp it requires a temp probe, unlike the cpu block which is built in (am I right?)
> 
> Now if yes, I would require one of these https://shop.aquacomputer.de/product_info.php?products_id=3590 right?
> 
> second question is I see from the manual, the VISION terminal can communicate with Aquaero, which cable connector do I need for that? and do I plug it in to the Sensors on the Aquaero?


Please excuse me for not answering your questions. I just wanted to say something about external temperature sensors in general.

My experience with them hasn't been good. I've tested several from multiple manufacturers, including the one in your link, and the constant is that they're accuracy is inconsistent. To test them I would take two identical sensors and place them next to each other using the same heat source. Rarely did I receive the same temp reading. Granted I'm not a scientist, but the difference between the temp readings was enough to where I decided that I wasted money on a bunch of different temp sensors. I rely more on the systems internal sensors. Some people might consider that bad advice, but I'm a heavy overclocker and I have never fried my systems. Your experience may vary.


----------



## jokrik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jsutter71*
> 
> Please excuse me for not answering your questions. I just wanted to say something about external temperature sensors in general.
> 
> My experience with them hasn't been good. I've tested several from multiple manufacturers, including the one in your link, and the constant is that they're accuracy is inconsistent. To test them I would take two identical sensors and place them next to each other using the same heat source. Rarely did I receive the same temp reading. Granted I'm not a scientist, but the difference between the temp readings was enough to where I decided that I wasted money on a bunch of different temp sensors. I rely more on the systems internal sensors. Some people might consider that bad advice, but I'm a heavy overclocker and I have never fried my systems. Your experience may vary.


I do understand where your argument came from, and I have to agree on their accuracy

However it would just be more of a waste if I don't complete the use of the VISION or my aquaero, actually I find it to be more for aesthetic and wow factor









so all in all, yes it might be a waste but am really curious as how aquaero would work as a whole in my system


----------



## war4peace

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jsutter71*
> 
> Please excuse me for not answering your questions. I just wanted to say something about external temperature sensors in general.
> 
> My experience with them hasn't been good. I've tested several from multiple manufacturers, including the one in your link, and the constant is that they're accuracy is inconsistent. To test them I would take two identical sensors and place them next to each other using the same heat source. Rarely did I receive the same temp reading.


The simplest way to test them would be to hold them between your fingers.
I do that with my sensors and the error delta is 0.1 degrees at most.
If you want to be really accurate in absolute terms place them in a recipient which contains water mixed with ice: guaranteed reference temperature of zero degrees Celsius.
I don't know of any software sensor able to measure liquid temperature and that is an absolute must when liquid cooling, overclocker or not.


----------



## TheRedViper

I have 2 pumps from 2 different loops (1 for cpu and 1 for gpu). Theyre both connected to a fan port of the aquaero 6. How do I make it so if one of the pump fails, the pc goes into shutdown?

All my fans are on the aquaero except for my 140mm exhaust which is on a fan port on mobo and my 50mm on vrm thats on cpu_fan to avoid alarm issues.

So do I have to take a 3 pin speed cable they provide and plug from the rpm port into one of the fan ports on mobo? Then go into bios to set shutdown if signal from that fan port goes low? How would I configurate the aquaero to link the speed signal with the pumps starus?


----------



## 44TZL

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jsutter71*
> 
> My experience with them hasn't been good. I've tested several from multiple manufacturers, including the one in your link, and the constant is that they're accuracy is inconsistent. To test them I would take two identical sensors and place them next to each other using the same heat source. Rarely did I receive the same temp reading. Granted I'm not a scientist, but the difference between the temp readings was enough to where I decided that I wasted money on a bunch of different temp sensors. I rely more on the systems internal sensors. Some people might consider that bad advice, but I'm a heavy overclocker and I have never fried my systems. Your experience may vary.


Did you ever verify the internal sensors in any way? What were your variances with the sensors?

I am using both Aquaero and Bitspower sensors for both air and coolant, and both are pretty accurate after an offset calibration. So far I have only had to adjust -0.3 to +0.6 degrees C and the accuracy after that is within +/- 0.2C for the temps that my system operates in. The only temperature sensor that is severely off is my aquaro mps flow at +2.8C, but again it's consistently bonkers at around that 2.8C.


----------



## Jubijub

I finished the sleeving of my 560 rad push/pull, with 8 Corsair ML 140.

I plugged them to a SPLITTY9 (itself powered from a PSU running standalone), and I noticed a couple of funky stuff with my multimeter measuring Hz signal.
I get a 35Hz reading...how to interpret that ?

If I got this right tacho signal should show 2 pulses per revolution, so if not mistaken :
- 35Hz means 35 oscillations per second, which means roughly 17 turns per second.
- this gives 1020RPM, which sounds strange as they are given for 200RPM, and since the SPLITTY9 is plugged straight to a PSU, there is not PWM signal to restrict the speed, nor any resistance.

Plugging one fan alone, I get readings up to 50Hz

I was also quite surprised on how the reading changes depending on which fan I plug on the "RPM" plug on the SPLITTY9 ...readings vary from 35 to 17 (the signal changes all the time, I mention here what I "eyeballed" using the multimeter)

scratch all the above, my test rig is pretty cheap, so I was holding the tacho wire against the multimeter pin using my finger. And I found out that this generates a Hz signal anyway























So I am not sure what I have been measuring, but not my fans RPM, for sure









Edit : ****, I need a resistor to do that :
http://www.overclockers.com/forums/showthread.php/718092-measuring-fan-rpm-s?p=7314126&viewfull=1#post7314126

Maybe I was acting as the resistor which is why I saw some measures ?


----------



## jsutter71

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *44TZL*
> 
> Did you ever verify the internal sensors in any way? What were your variances with the sensors?
> 
> I am using both Aquaero and Bitspower sensors for both air and coolant, and both are pretty accurate after an offset calibration. So far I have only had to adjust -0.3 to +0.6 degrees C and the accuracy after that is within +/- 0.2C for the temps that my system operates in. The only temperature sensor that is severely off is my aquaro mps flow at +2.8C, but again it's consistently bonkers at around that 2.8C.


Their is some variance between the motherboards readings and the Aquaero. Not enough to bother me because I know my system enough to realize if somethings off. I spent plenty of time benchmarking, overclocking, and benchmarking again to push my system to it's highest limitations while at the same time monitoring temps. The temps are always in a constant state of fluctuation which makes temperature testing difficult at best. More so in my case because of the complexity of my loop. A couple degree difference does not concern me unless I am maxing out my system while testing.

Snapshot of current readings.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jubijub*
> 
> I finished the sleeving of my 560 rad push/pull, with 8 Corsair ML 140.
> 
> I plugged them to a SPLITTY9 (itself powered from a PSU running standalone), and I noticed a couple of funky stuff with my multimeter measuring Hz signal.
> I get a 35Hz reading...how to interpret that ?
> 
> If I got this right tacho signal should show 2 pulses per revolution, so if not mistaken :
> - 35Hz means 35 oscillations per second, which means roughly 17 turns per second.
> - this gives 1020RPM, which sounds strange as they are given for 200RPM, and since the SPLITTY9 is plugged straight to a PSU, there is not PWM signal to restrict the speed, nor any resistance.
> 
> Plugging one fan alone, I get readings up to 50Hz
> 
> I was also quite surprised on how the reading changes depending on which fan I plug on the "RPM" plug on the SPLITTY9 ...readings vary from 35 to 17 (the signal changes all the time, I mention here what I "eyeballed" using the multimeter)
> 
> scratch all the above, my test rig is pretty cheap, so I was holding the tacho wire against the multimeter pin using my finger. And I found out that this generates a Hz signal anyway
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I am not sure what I have been measuring, but not my fans RPM, for sure
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Edit : ****, I need a resistor to do that :
> http://www.overclockers.com/forums/showthread.php/718092-measuring-fan-rpm-s?p=7314126&viewfull=1#post7314126
> 
> Maybe I was acting as the resistor which is why I saw some measures ?


Afaik that's the wrong kind of hz anyway. Pwm is not ac voltage. It is measuring ac hz.

You need a scope to see that afaik


----------



## Revan654

When it comes to aquabus cable for vision. Does AquaComputer make any cable longer then 70cm? Right now 70cm does not reach my one vision block. I'm guessing I could just add a fan cable at the other end to extend the cable. I just don't have the patience to create vision cables due to the face that the terminal is less then 1.5mm. Plus they are very hard to get inside the crimper & also make sure the wire reaches the right length the terminal


----------



## jsutter71

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> When it comes to aquabus cable for vision. Does AquaComputer make any cable longer then 70cm? Right now 70cm does not reach my one vision block. I'm guessing I could just add a fan cable at the other end to extend the cable. I just don't have the patience to create vision cables due to the face that the terminal is less then 1.5mm. Plus they are very hard to get inside the crimper & also make sure the wire reaches the right length the terminal


http://www.performance-pcs.com/aquacomputer-internal-usb-connection-cable-100-cm-for-vision.html


----------



## jsutter71

That's weird PPCS is showing up as a malware site on Edge and chrome.


----------



## war4peace

It's likely that PPCS has been compromised.


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jsutter71*
> 
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/aquacomputer-internal-usb-connection-cable-100-cm-for-vision.html


Aquabus not USB.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *war4peace*
> 
> It's likely that PPCS has been compromised.


Anyone having issues with PPCS read the following from PPCS:

http://www.overclock.net/t/1631466/performance-pcs-com-support/160#post_26346784


----------



## jokrik

Would anyone be kind enough to check if my chart is proper?
Sorry, but am a newb when it comes to Aquaero

Question is, let's say I have connected my pump/flow meter to my aquaero via aquabus, do I still need to connect the USB to my motherboard? or the aquabus is sufficient enough?
Since it says in the manual that the USB is used for communication and power supply


----------



## Bartdude

To use the aquabus you need to connect the USB to your motherboard first time round so that the Aquaero can see the devices, once that's done you can disconnect the USB or you can leave it connected it doesn't matter.


----------



## jokrik

That makes sense, thank you


----------



## Ashcroft

A good way to think of it is that Aquabus allows the Aquaero to control and read the other devices while USB allows Aquasuite to control, program and read devices.

So, all new devices need to be connected via USB so Aquasuite can set them up. Once that is done you can remove the USB and the Aquaero uses Aquabus to control and read everything. Aquabus is not dependent on the pc.


----------



## Shoggy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bartdude*
> 
> To use the aquabus you need to connect the USB to your motherboard first time round so that the Aquaero can see the devices, once that's done you can disconnect the USB or you can leave it connected it doesn't matter.


It does not really work like this. The aqusuite nor the aquaero cares if this device was connected before or not. The reason why it must be connected via USB is that some devices like the D5 must be configured to accept commands via aquabus. If the aquaero has not been connected in this time and you would also remove the aquasuite completely from your system and connect everything together via aquabus afterwards, then it would still work


----------



## Bartdude

Interesting thx Shoggy. Still new to Aquaero myself. Learning alot from these forums ?


----------



## Jubijub

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> Afaik that's the wrong kind of hz anyway. Pwm is not ac voltage. It is measuring ac hz.
> 
> You need a scope to see that afaik


I am talking about the tacho signal, not the PWM...
And my multimeter has a duty cycle mode, and an Hz mode (I have a Brymen BM867)


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jubijub*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> Afaik that's the wrong kind of hz anyway. Pwm is not ac voltage. It is measuring ac hz.
> 
> You need a scope to see that afaik
> 
> 
> 
> I am talking about the tacho signal, not the PWM...
> And my multimeter has a duty cycle mode, and an Hz mode (I have a Brymen BM867)
Click to expand...

To measure RPM with a multimeter, you'll need to put a 5K to 10K resistor from the tach lead to the + power source lead and measure between the tach lead and ground.

Multiply the hertz reading by 30 to get RPM.


----------



## iamjanco

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> To measure RPM with a multimeter...


How you guys holding up down there, Darlene? I was actually a little surprised to see your post given Maria...


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jubijub*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> Afaik that's the wrong kind of hz anyway. Pwm is not ac voltage. It is measuring ac hz.
> 
> You need a scope to see that afaik
> 
> 
> 
> I am talking about the tacho signal, not the PWM...
> And my multimeter has a duty cycle mode, and an Hz mode (I have a Brymen BM867)
Click to expand...

ah,m sorry and thanks !


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iamjanco*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> To measure RPM with a multimeter...
> 
> 
> 
> How you guys holding up down there, Darlene? I was actually a little surprised to see your post given Maria...
Click to expand...

It's a cat 5 with 160 mph winds, and going to pass right over top of us about 2AM or so.

It's going to be ugly, no doubt about that . . . especially with relief efforts already stretched so thin throughout the whole Caribbean.

It's starting to intensify significantly since the past couple hours.

I'm at work with a small crew of security and surveillance folks to keep an eye on the place and hope it doesn't blow away.

The resort across the street has evacuated all their guests and emergency staff to our lower banquet rooms.

Which works out pretty well, as they brought food, cots, and blankets/pillows so we can eat and have a place to sleep.

It's amazing how well the people are all coping and have a sense of camaraderie.

Even more amazing perhaps, is that we still have internet, but it may not last much longer.

We have our own power plant for the Time share villas, the resort and the casino, as well as a backup generator for the casino, so hopefully, we can keep the lights on and the AC running throughout this ordeal.

Hopefully, once we get past this, I can get a chance to go home to see if my house is still there and maybe still even has a roof, but that'll be a couple days at least.

Uhhh Ohhh . . . just heard a big "thud" on the roof, better go investigate . . .


----------



## iamjanco

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> It's a cat 5 with 160 mph winds, and going to pass right over top of us about 2AM or so.
> 
> It's going to be ugly, no doubt about that . . . especially with relief efforts already stretched so thin throughout the whole Caribbean.
> 
> It's starting to intensify significantly since the past couple hours.
> 
> I'm at work with a small crew of security and surveillance folks to keep an eye on the place and hope it doesn't blow away.
> 
> The resort across the street has evacuated all their guests and emergency staff to our lower banquet rooms.
> 
> Which works out pretty well, as they brought food, cots, and blankets/pillows so we can eat and have a place to sleep.
> 
> It's amazing how well the people are all coping and have a sense of camaraderie.
> 
> Even more amazing perhaps, is that we still have internet, but it may not last much longer.
> 
> We have our own power plant for the Time share villas, the resort and the casino, as well as a backup generator for the casino, so hopefully, we can keep the lights on and the AC running throughout this ordeal.
> 
> Hopefully, once we get past this, I can get a chance to go home to see if my house is still there and maybe still even has a roof, but that'll be a couple days at least.
> 
> Uhhh Ohhh . . . just heard a big "thud" on the roof, better go investigate . . .


Thanks for letting us know you're still okay. I'm sure you're in the thoughts of many.

For those who don't know, Darlene, aka ITDIVA, lives and works in the US Virgin Islands. They were already hit pretty hard by Irma the week before last, and now they've got to cope with Maria (and its aftermath), another CAT 5 hurricane. Last time I checked, the eye of the storm was on a path to move directly over the islands.


----------



## GTXJackBauer

It's been a hectic last few weeks with a friend in Houston dealing with Harvey and than my sis and brother-in-law stuck in the Dominican Republic as IRMA the wh**e was passing by. Than we had friends in Florida dealing with their debacle but can't imagine the poor locals in the caribbean are dealing with, back to back to back. Prayers for all.

A Casino is most likely the best structurally sound place to be in imho (assuming there's no windows), of course first being in a Vault.

Nonetheless, stay safe and flip the birdie to Maria for me.


----------



## Mega Man

Be safe Darlene. We look foreward to your safe return


----------



## iamjanco

Sounds like St. Croix took a *pretty bad hit* this time. Hope you're okay, Darlene.


----------



## B3L13V3R

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iamjanco*
> 
> Sounds like St. Croix took a *pretty bad hit* this time. Hope you're okay, Darlene.


Was thinking the seme thing @IT Diva. Looks pretty bad.


----------



## Morphello

Hi Everyone. I've got a weird issue with my newly built setup, trying to understand the ins and outs of the Aquaero and connecting everything together.

I have it setup like this:

Aquaero 6 LT - Fan1 >> 4pin cable >> SPLITTY9 >> 6x Noctua NF-A14 industrialPPC-3000 PWM

Aquaero 6 LT - Fan2 >> EK-D5 PWM G2

The issue I seem to be having is that if I have all 6 fans plugged into the splitty running off Fan1 on the Aquaero, the fan's wont spin up from cold on PWM. They make a clicking sound and refuse to spin up.

If I manually start them (finger spin), they'll continue.

If I switch to voltage control, they'll start up at 5.2v and climb to 1300rpm. All 6 fans use 0.96amps at this voltage (5w). Voltage range is 1250rpm to 2900rpm.

If they are spinning already I can switch it to PWM and get the full range of control from 280rpm to 2900rpm with the current radiator resistances. 50% PWM is 1300rpm at 11.7v and uses 0.36amps at this voltage (4.2w).

Setting boost or minimum power to 99% while on PWM wont get them to spin up if there are 6 fans plugged in. If I plug in 5 fans, I get the same results.

If I only use 4 fans, PWM signal works perfectly and they spin up at 20% power (about 300rpm) as expected.

So basically if I use 6 fans with my splitty9, PWM wont spin up from motionless. Only voltage will make them spin up reliably. If I use 4 fans, it'll work as expected. Swapping the headers around on the splitty doesn't seem to make a difference. I don't seem to be power limited.

The fans vibrate or oscillate a little as they make a ticking sound when they're trying to start. It's clear that they're trying to spin up. If I manually spin 1 fan, the rest will all spin up as well. I see bursts of high amperage from the readout in aquaero.

Have no idea what's going on here. Any help would be appreciated!


----------



## GTXJackBauer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Morphello*
> 
> Hi Everyone. I've got a weird issue with my newly built setup, trying to understand the ins and outs of the Aquaero and connecting everything together.
> 
> I have it setup like this:
> 
> Aquaero 6 LT - Fan1 >> 4pin cable >> SPLITTY9 >> 6x Noctua NF-A14 industrialPPC-3000 PWM
> 
> Aquaero 6 LT - Fan2 >> EK-D5 PWM G2
> 
> The issue I seem to be having is that if I have all 6 fans plugged into the splitty running off Fan1 on the Aquaero, the fan's wont spin up from cold on PWM. They make a clicking sound and refuse to spin up.
> 
> If I manually start them (finger spin), they'll continue.
> 
> If I switch to voltage control, they'll start up at 5.2v and climb to 1300rpm. All 6 fans use 0.96amps at this voltage (5w). Voltage range is 1250rpm to 2900rpm.
> 
> If they are spinning already I can switch it to PWM and get the full range of control from 280rpm to 2900rpm with the current radiator resistances. 50% PWM is 1300rpm at 11.7v and uses 0.36amps at this voltage (4.2w).
> 
> Setting boost or minimum power to 99% while on PWM wont get them to spin up if there are 6 fans plugged in. If I plug in 5 fans, I get the same results.
> 
> If I only use 4 fans, PWM signal works perfectly and they spin up at 20% power (about 300rpm) as expected.
> 
> So basically if I use 6 fans with my splitty9, PWM wont spin up from motionless. Only voltage will make them spin up reliably. If I use 4 fans, it'll work as expected. Swapping the headers around on the splitty doesn't seem to make a difference. I don't seem to be power limited.
> 
> The fans vibrate or oscillate a little as they make a ticking sound when they're trying to start. It's clear that they're trying to spin up. If I manually spin 1 fan, the rest will all spin up as well. I see bursts of high amperage from the readout in aquaero.
> 
> Have no idea what's going on here. Any help would be appreciated!


If I did my math right, you're demanding a total of 39.6 watts on a 30 watt max rated channel. Sure it could give you a bit more wiggle room but at 100% that's way too much. I'm hoping the channel isn't damaged at all as it doesn't seem so if it still works as you've tested. I would just stop doing what you're doing before you permanently damage it.

I recommend on just splitting them up across the other channels if they are vacant. Put the pumps on channel one and use the others for fans. For example, you could put them on the other 3 remaining channels in 2s via cable splitter or 3s on 2 channels.


----------



## Morphello

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GTXJackBauer*
> 
> If I did my math right, you're demanding a total of 39.6 watts on a 30 watt max rated channel. Sure it could give you a bit more wiggle room but at 100% that's way too much. I'm hoping the channel isn't damaged at all as it doesn't seem so if it still works as you've tested. I would just stop doing what you're doing before you permanently damage it.
> 
> I recommend on just splitting them up across the other channels if they are vacant. Put the pumps on channel one and use the others for fans. For example, you could put them on the other 3 remaining channels in 2s via cable splitter or 3s on 2 channels.


While yes, the actual total listed power draw of all 6 fans can max out at 39.6 watts, the fans can't reach that in normal use. All 6 fans running at 99% power will hit 28w.



It does get very close to the 2.5amp limit, but I've never seen it go over. I also have the additional heatsink.

But that's not the issue here at all. The issue is that PWM wont start up my fans if I have 6 on a splitter. Voltage will start it up easily.



Running 6 fans at 1000rpm is just over 2watts.

No matter how much "power" I give them, 5 or 6 fans wont spin up under PWM with the splitter. Voltage only requires 5.2v @ 0.8amp to spin up then settles at 0.4amps.

Edit: I should also note that running the splitty from the 1amp CPU header on my motherboard has no issues spinning up under PWM and can hit just shy of 1800rpm with all fans.


----------



## GTXJackBauer

In a sense I was thinking during startup as they can spin up to max before settling down to your set setting.


----------



## Jubijub

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> To measure RPM with a multimeter, you'll need to put a 5K to 10K resistor from the tach lead to the + power source lead and measure between the tach lead and ground.
> 
> Multiply the hertz reading by 30 to get RPM.


Thanks IT Diva...hope you are doing OK with all that crazyness in the Caribbean, this year is absolutely terrible


----------



## Morphello

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GTXJackBauer*
> 
> In a sense I was thinking during startup as they can spin up to max before settling down to your set setting.


Oh yeah, I get it. I definitely don't want them doing that. They're crazy loud at 3000 rpm. Even when trying the startup boost, I only ever set it to 6v or about 50% power.

I only got these fans because they were the same price (at the time) as just about any other noctua 140mm I was capable of ordering, and I had previously seen them working at 250rpm.

It would be great if I could somehow switch the startup boost to voltage for 2 seconds then switch it back to PWM automatically. I still don't know enough about aquasuite or the aquaero to see if that's possible.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Morphello*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *GTXJackBauer*
> 
> If I did my math right, you're demanding a total of 39.6 watts on a 30 watt max rated channel. Sure it could give you a bit more wiggle room but at 100% that's way too much. I'm hoping the channel isn't damaged at all as it doesn't seem so if it still works as you've tested. I would just stop doing what you're doing before you permanently damage it.
> 
> I recommend on just splitting them up across the other channels if they are vacant. Put the pumps on channel one and use the others for fans. For example, you could put them on the other 3 remaining channels in 2s via cable splitter or 3s on 2 channels.
> 
> 
> 
> While yes, the actual total listed power draw of all 6 fans can max out at 39.6 watts, the fans can't reach that in normal use. All 6 fans running at 99% power will hit 28w.
> 
> 
> 
> It does get very close to the 2.5amp limit, but I've never seen it go over. I also have the additional heatsink.
> 
> But that's not the issue here at all. The issue is that PWM wont start up my fans if I have 6 on a splitter. Voltage will start it up easily.
> 
> 
> 
> Running 6 fans at 1000rpm is just over 2watts.
> 
> No matter how much "power" I give them, 5 or 6 fans wont spin up under PWM with the splitter. Voltage only requires 5.2v @ 0.8amp to spin up then settles at 0.4amps.
> 
> Edit: I should also note that running the splitty from the 1amp CPU header on my motherboard has no issues spinning up under PWM and can hit just shy of 1800rpm with all fans.
Click to expand...

that is weird, check out your voltage at startup with a multi meter


----------



## Excession

I just received my Aquaero 6 today, and after putting on the heatsink I noticed that the PCB has a very slight bend to it. Maybe half a millimeter of deflection from one end to the other. That isn't enough to worry about, right?

I usually wouldn't ask about something that minor, but the damned thing cost a hundred bucks.


----------



## Mega Man

Pictures needed


----------



## Dasandmancometh

Question for the group. I have two Aquacomputer D5's with the Aquabus/USB. They are connected to my A6pro via a Y splitter to the high side. I am unable to lower the RPM's below 2000. I can lower to power to 0% in aquasuite on the pumps tab but the RPM's never go below 2000 +/-. There's not really a problem, however I'm unable to get my flow below 2 lpm on one loop due to this. Can anyone confirm this is the same on their system?


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Excession*
> 
> I just received my Aquaero 6 today, and after putting on the heatsink I noticed that the PCB has a very slight bend to it. Maybe half a millimeter of deflection from one end to the other. That isn't enough to worry about, right?
> 
> I usually wouldn't ask about something that minor, but the damned thing cost a hundred bucks.


No, It's a common issue nothing to truly worry about.

This one Build Log shows the issue (If that's what your talking about) :

Link: http://www.overclock.net/t/1622492/build-log-the-big-red-devastator-caselabs-thw10-custom-powder-coating/80#post_25928200

This is how mine looks like:


----------



## valvehead

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dasandmancometh*
> 
> Question for the group. I have two Aquacomputer D5's with the Aquabus/USB. They are connected to my A6pro via a Y splitter to the high side. I am unable to lower the RPM's below 2000. I can lower to power to 0% in aquasuite on the pumps tab but the RPM's never go below 2000 +/-. There's not really a problem, however I'm unable to get my flow below 2 lpm on one loop due to this. Can anyone confirm this is the same on their system?


I don't think it's possible to go lower. From what I've read, it's essentially a D5 Vario except the potentiometer is digitally-controlled. There's a limit to how low it can go. I suspect that the PWM version may have a larger range, but I have not tried one yet.

My D5 USB runs at about 1900 RPM at minimum for 90 L/h (1.5 L/m). Running in a CPU-only loop at the moment.


----------



## Dasandmancometh

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *valvehead*
> 
> I don't think it's possible to go lower. From what I've read, it's essentially a D5 Vario except the potentiometer is digitally-controlled. There's a limit to how low it can go. I suspect that the PWM version may have a larger range, but I have not tried one yet.
> 
> My D5 USB runs at about 1900 RPM at minimum for 90 L/h (1.5 L/m). Running in a CPU-only loop at the moment.


I assumed there was a min RPM, however I could not find any specs confirming that. I have this one running my GPU's in parallel and I guess the flow is just so good there's no way for me to get it under 2 L/min with the min RPM's on this D5. But it's doing good with temps so it's not a big deal. Might be a bigger deal if I had a smaller rad.


----------



## Morphello

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> that is weird, check out your voltage at startup with a multi meter


Which voltage in particular? I checked the voltage coming out of the Splitty pins, and while it's ticking and trying to start up, its at 10.4 > 10.7 volts. Aquaero reports 12v.

That should be enough to spin them? Or is this because the PWM signal isn't working properly at 10.4v and it should be 12?


----------



## Mega Man

That is weird. It sounds to me that the voltage isnt enough but it is, it could be a lack of amperage, but normally they would just over amp. Have you tried just connecting it to the psu directly (the splitty)


----------



## Morphello

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> That is weird. It sounds to me that the voltage isnt enough but it is, it could be a lack of amperage, but normally they would just over amp. Have you tried just connecting it to the psu directly (the splitty)


Tried the splitty direct to the PSU via 3pin molex. All fans turned on instantly, spun up correctly and pretty much stayed at max (deafening) speed.

I'm stumped by this. If I use voltage on the Aquaero it works just fine, but it uses significantly more power and has a much higher minimum RPM. Even though I have 3000 rpm fans, I'm only looking to run them about 1200rpm max. Minimum RPM for voltage is 1250-1300 @ 5.2v.

Is it possible to give it a script where... "If RPM <200, voltage at 5.2v for 2 seconds then switch to PWM"?


----------



## Mega Man

Ok let me rephrase.

If you use a pwm fan you can supply voltage from the psu directly, and the pwm signal from the aquaero


----------



## Morphello

Ah so I have to wire it myself somehow?

Would that allow me to spin down the fans with 0% PWM signal?


----------



## Ashcroft

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dasandmancometh*
> 
> Question for the group. I have two Aquacomputer D5's with the Aquabus/USB. They are connected to my A6pro via a Y splitter to the high side. I am unable to lower the RPM's below 2000. I can lower to power to 0% in aquasuite on the pumps tab but the RPM's never go below 2000 +/-. There's not really a problem, however I'm unable to get my flow below 2 lpm on one loop due to this. Can anyone confirm this is the same on their system?


They really should be able to run at the standard D5 vario min speed of 1800rpm. Mine all do and others that I have seen.

The nature of fluid dynamics means that flow restriction is roughly quadrupled when flow is doubled. So increasing flow rates require ever more and more pressure and power.
The reverse is also true. As flow rate falls the restriction drops rapidly. With common modern high flow water cooling gear by the time we get to 2Lpm it takes very little pump power to maintain. To get lower requires even less power again. It gets so that even the weakest of pumps running at all will generate a reasonable 1+Lpm and to go lower without permanently modifying the loop to restrict the maximum flow rate you need some sort of tap to adjust the restriction and flow.

Lowering your pump speed bt 200rpm will make little difference to the flow rate.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Morphello*
> 
> Ah so I have to wire it myself somehow?
> 
> Would that allow me to spin down the fans with 0% PWM signal?


It depends somewhat on the fans used I think but generally if PWM fans are fed power from the PSU a zero % control signal from the Aq will cause the fans to ramp up to full speed. If the fans are powered through the Aquaero at 0% it drops the voltage to 0 at the same time so that the same effect doesn't occur..


----------



## Danoupside

I'm building a loop with 16mm acrylic that has a 13mm inner diameter. I'm planning on using an AquaC flow 400 in the loop to measure flow rate. My concern is that the inner diameter of the flow meter is only 10 or maybe 11 mm. Should I be concerned that it will restrict flow in comparison to the rest of the loop?


----------



## war4peace

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Danoupside*
> 
> I'm building a loop with 16mm acrylic that has a 13mm inner diameter. I'm planning on using an AquaC flow 400 in the loop to measure flow rate. My concern is that the inner diameter of the flow meter is only 10 or maybe 11 mm. Should I be concerned that it will restrict flow in comparison to the rest of the loop?


It won't matter. The restriction exists at the G1/4 connectors anyway.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Morphello*
> 
> Ah so I have to wire it myself somehow?
> 
> Would that allow me to spin down the fans with 0% PWM signal?


You can wire it but it takes more stuff, some fans spin at min speed and others go to mac ( you can leave min speed at 1% to correct ). You can wire in a relay did that when the aquaero cuts power at 0% ( which is not normal btw, it is something the aquaero does) it cuts the 12v to the splitty

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *war4peace*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Danoupside*
> 
> I'm building a loop with 16mm acrylic that has a 13mm inner diameter. I'm planning on using an AquaC flow 400 in the loop to measure flow rate. My concern is that the inner diameter of the flow meter is only 10 or maybe 11 mm. Should I be concerned that it will restrict flow in comparison to the rest of the loop?
> 
> 
> 
> It won't matter. The restriction exists at the G1/4 connectors anyway.
Click to expand...

This is not true. If you have a minor restriction fluid will speed up through the restriction and slow down after it. ( think of when you use your thumb on the end of a hose) this said *most* loops are not long enough to need a larger size. Some are. But very few

No answer the original question. No you shouldn't be worried.


----------



## war4peace

That's what I wanted to say, when the tubing diameter is larger than whatever barb it goes around, the restriction is not at the tubing's inner diameter, because the loop itself will have areas with smaller diameter than the tube itself.


----------



## shiokarai

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *valvehead*
> 
> I don't think it's possible to go lower. From what I've read, it's essentially a D5 Vario except the potentiometer is digitally-controlled. There's a limit to how low it can go. I suspect that the PWM version may have a larger range, but I have not tried one yet.
> 
> My D5 USB runs at about 1900 RPM at minimum for 90 L/h (1.5 L/m). Running in a CPU-only loop at the moment.


I can run my EK PWM D5's at 1400 rpm easily (thru CPU fan header on the mobo) and there is room to go lower... weird I thought aquabus interface would allow for a precise and wide rpm control, not just few steps like a regular D5 vario.


----------



## WhellchairNinja

I kinda regret getting an aquaero without display


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shiokarai*
> 
> I can run my EK PWM D5's at 1400 rpm easily (thru CPU fan header on the mobo) and there is room to go lower... weird I thought aquabus interface would allow for a precise and wide rpm control, not just few steps like a regular D5 vario.


I think you can go lower, I recall someone else having issues like that & they E-mailed Aqua-Computer and they gave them the answer they were looking for.

Not sure on solution, It might be a good idea to E-mail Aqua-Computer to see if you can go lower or not.

Also make sure you have the latest firmware as well.


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WhellchairNinja*
> 
> I kinda regret getting an aquaero without display




you can always buy the Vision table top unit & get the read out of what AQ has. It also has an OLED screen too.


----------



## WhellchairNinja

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> 
> 
> you can always buy the Vision table top unit & get the read out of what AQ has. It also has an OLED screen too.


Yes, that was my plan!


----------



## Morphello

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *valvehead*
> 
> I don't think it's possible to go lower. From what I've read, it's essentially a D5 Vario except the potentiometer is digitally-controlled. There's a limit to how low it can go. I suspect that the PWM version may have a larger range, but I have not tried one yet.


D5 PWM can drop to 800rpm (EK brand) quite easily



But at 800rpm it's less than 16L/hr, which is about the lower limit of my flow meter.


----------



## Mega Man

Pwm is not voltage control.

Pwm is nice because of an increased range


----------



## looniam

is that because there will always be 12v but sent in "pulses"?


----------



## Mega Man

internal To the motor, i believe, but i don't Claim to know why.

You dont pulse the 12v. You give it power, and the pwm signal which is 3.3 or 5vdc depending on the spec (both of which are intel)


----------



## Dasandmancometh

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Morphello*
> 
> D5 PWM can drop to 800rpm (EK brand) quite easily
> 
> 
> 
> But at 800rpm it's less than 16L/hr, which is about the lower limit of my flow meter.


I'm assuming there's a difference between the PWM and aquabus/USB models. Is that 51% power? If I was at 51% I'd be around 3200'ish RPM's, can't remember for sure. I can't get mine to go below 200 RPM's. I have sent an email to Aquabus.us, waiting on a reply if it ever comes.


----------



## looniam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> internal To the motor, i believe, but i don't Claim to know why.
> 
> You dont pulse the 12v. You give it power, and the pwm signal which is 3.3 or 5vdc depending on the spec (both of which are intel)












maybe i need to read instead of looking at pretty pics.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dasandmancometh*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Morphello*
> 
> D5 PWM can drop to 800rpm (EK brand) quite easily
> 
> 
> 
> But at 800rpm it's less than 16L/hr, which is about the lower limit of my flow meter.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm assuming there's a difference between the PWM and aquabus/USB models. Is that 51% power? If I was at 51% I'd be around 3200'ish RPM's, can't remember for sure. I can't get mine to go below 200 RPM's. I have sent an email to Aquabus.us, waiting on a reply if it ever comes.
Click to expand...

yes. The aquabus version is essentially a vario with the red knob replaced with a digital one.


----------



## Dasandmancometh

Um... yeah, kinda knew that. I was talking about more of the inner workings and default settings/limits. Which I wouldn't really think there would be a difference between the PWM and aquabus/USB.

Or it is the ports they are being controlled with on the Aquaero and the limits on those ports within the Aquaero.


----------



## Mega Man

ok, well since you know what a vario is, i assume you know the limits of the rpm range.

and the fact i said " the pwm is nice because of an increased range"

this is not just true of pumps, but any voltage controlled motor ( for pcs ) which is all the vario is


----------



## Revan654

Quick Question, With the Vision Table Top unit anyone know if you can pop the unit out? I want to do some modding to the base, I would like to remove the unit while I do that so I don't damage it.


----------



## Shoggy

You can remove the module. There is a little hole near the edge: stick a sturdy paper clip into it and the module will pop out.

The drawing is from a kryos NEXT block but it works the same way for the desktop units:


----------



## smicha

Guys,

I need your urgent help - I get a new Aquaero 6 Pro and there is a 4 fan over-current error all the time - I reset the device using jumpers on 5-8 sensors and updated firmware - but still fan 4 is not working.

please help - shall I RMA the aquaero or there is a chance to make it working ?


----------



## Mega Man

It sounds to me as if you either have
1 overloaded your aquaero
2 hooked up something incorrectly and broke it


----------



## smicha

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> It sounds to me as if you either have
> 1 overloaded your aquaero
> 2 hooked up something incorrectly and broke it


There are connected:

9 fans via splitty9 to 1st channel - each fan is 0.12A (NoiseBlocker PL2) so 1.44Wx9 = 12.96W (so way to less than 30W per channel)
9 fans via splitty9 to 2nd channel
3 fans via splitty9 to 3rd channel
D5 PWM cables only to 4th channel (D5 is powered by molex)

This is the config that I used many times and worked well. This is the first time I see Overcurrent error.


----------



## Mega Man

then it sound to me like you hooked something up incorrectly and broke it (no judgement, just what i see/ have seen/ ect)

I have yet to see any aquaero fail outside of user error, is it possible, sure, is all 4 channels likely to fail at the same time, i doubt it

Literally all it takes is one time. You may currently be connected wrong, it may of been in the past.

I could not fix the one i did. By any method. It has recently started working when i flashed it to a slave. But i don't have a spare aquaero to test it on to see if it is fixed, that i am willing to throw away of it does trash it.


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> You can remove the module. There is a little hole near the edge: stick a sturdy paper clip into it and the module will pop out.
> 
> The drawing is from a kryos NEXT block but it works the same way for the desktop units:


ok Thanks. I was hoping there was a way.


----------



## smicha

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> then it sound to me like you hooked something up incorrectly and broke it (no judgement, just what i see/ have seen/ ect)
> 
> I have yet to see any aquaero fail outside of user error, is it possible, sure, is all 4 channels likely to fail at the same time, i doubt it
> 
> Literally all it takes is one time. You may currently be connected wrong, it may of been in the past.
> 
> I could not fix the one i did. By any method. It has recently started working when i flashed it to a slave. But i don't have a spare aquaero to test it on to see if it is fixed, that i am willing to throw away of it does trash it.


All first 3 channels are working fine, only 4th channel is not working. How could I broke it connecting only PWM D5 wires for PWM signal only?

I have another Aquaero - how can I use it to correct the error on the faulty one? Another one is working fine.


----------



## Mega Man

Ok, so by "4 fan over current " you mean channel 4 fan not all four fans ?

I think i misunderstood you, sorry. Lets start over

Is this a first time run ( since rebuild/build ? )

Did you just walk to your pc and notice the issue (and change nothing ) or did you plug and unplug something then this issue started?

Do your pump(s) receive power from the aquaero or do they receive power directly from psu via the fat 4 pin?

If you remove the connector from channel 4, does the alert stop?


----------



## smicha

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> Ok, so by "4 fan over current " you mean channel 4 fan not all four fans ?
> 
> I think i misunderstood you, sorry. Lets start over
> 
> Is this a first time run ( since rebuild/build ? )
> 
> Did you just walk to your pc and notice the issue (and change nothing ) or did you plug and unplug something then this issue started?
> 
> Do your pump(s) receive power from the aquaero or do they receive power directly from psu via the fat 4 pin?
> 
> If you remove the connector from channel 4, does the alert stop?


This is a completely new build (almost the same as this one with 11 GPUs see /watch?v=Uk2qIYvgFaE)

4th channel is marked as red in aquasuite with an error about overcurrent - this is present since first installation of aquasuite. To this 4th channel only PWM blue and green cables are attached that transmit PWM control to D5 EK pumps (not power, cause power is provided by PSU molex cables).

So when I turn the aquaero on I see the error displayed and no signal on 4th channel - see the photos.

PS Huge thank you for your time and help. I hope Shoggy helps too.


----------



## Mega Man

Unplug everything on *that* channel, completely power down. Then reboot.

Either

1 something is grounding out.

2 you hooked something up wrong ( maybe fixable, high likely hood it isnt )

3 the channel failed on its own (unlikely)

If it is fixable then unhooking the pumps from channel 4 will tell us

Also use sniping tool and take a pic of aquasuite.
And please take a pic of the back of the aquaero
What is tripping is an electronic fuse. It is possible ( but unlikely) that you have it set too low ( as it should be pulling 0a )

Shoogy (likely) at best would not respond till Friday, during the day, in the uk


----------



## smicha

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> Unplug everything on *that* channel, completely power down. Then reboot.
> 
> Either
> 
> 1 something is grounding out.
> 
> 2 you hooked something up wrong ( maybe fixable, high likely hood it isnt )
> 
> 3 the channel failed on its own (unlikely)
> 
> If it is fixable then unhooking the pumps from channel 4 will tell us


I did it. Even reset the device using jumpers and uploaded new firmware - still same issue - nothing is connected to aquaero.


----------



## Mega Man

Ninja edited
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> Unplug everything on *that* channel, completely power down. Then reboot.
> 
> Either
> 
> 1 something is grounding out.
> 
> 2 you hooked something up wrong ( maybe fixable, high likely hood it isnt )
> 
> 3 the channel failed on its own (unlikely)
> 
> If it is fixable then unhooking the pumps from channel 4 will tell us
> 
> Also use sniping tool and take a pic of aquasuite.
> And please take a pic of the back of the aquaero
> What is tripping is an electronic fuse. It is possible ( but unlikely) that you have it set too low ( as it should be pulling 0a )
> 
> Shoogy (likely) at best would not respond till Friday, during the day, in the uk


It is likely the unit is damaged

Take pictures of the back of it and aquasuite ( channel 4 fan page with everything expanded )


----------



## Shoggy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *smicha*
> 
> Guys,
> 
> I need your urgent help - I get a new Aquaero 6 Pro and there is a 4 fan over-current error all the time - I reset the device using jumpers on 5-8 sensors and updated firmware - but still fan 4 is not working.
> 
> please help - shall I RMA the aquaero or there is a chance to make it working ?


if you get the same message if nothing is connect to this channel and you also tried a reset through the firmware recovery function, than you can be 99% sure that a monitoring chip on the board is damaged. I also want to be honest that that this damage is very likely to be caused by external events and not covered by warranty. Well, right now this is only speculation and we can only tell what is going on when you return the device which is also the only way to get it back into a working condition.


----------



## smicha

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> if you get the same message if nothing is connect to this channel and you also tried a reset through the firmware recovery function, than you can be 99% sure that a monitoring chip on the board is damaged. I also want to be honest that that this damage is very likely to be caused by external events and not covered by warranty. Well, right now this is only speculation and we can only tell what is going on when you return the device which is also the only way to get it back into a working condition.


Thank you. I am sending it back to RMA so. I hope it will be repaired under warranty, cause it gave overcurrent error since first use. I am also attaching the photo of the back where fan inputs are visible if this helps.


----------



## Shoggy

That kind of damage ist not visible and can be only be traced back through measurements. The little chip on the left side next to the encapsulated coil with the upside down 223 print is the one which must be the problem.


----------



## Ashcroft

I had a very similar problem with my first Aquaero 6. I was constantly displaying overcurrent from the day I bought it.

I had an Aquaero 5 that worked completely fine and upgraded to the Aq6. All I did was take out the AQ5 and slot in the Aq6 and the problems started. Swapping back to the Aq5 worked perfectly again. All the wiring remained the same between the two units. I sent the Aq6 back to the store and they sent me a new one that worked perfectly and has ever since.

I don't believe any external events could have caused the problem with mine.


----------



## smicha

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ashcroft*
> 
> I had a very similar problem with my first Aquaero 6. I was constantly displaying overcurrent from the day I bought it.
> 
> I had an Aquaero 5 that worked completely fine and upgraded to the Aq6. All I did was take out the AQ5 and slot in the Aq6 and the problems started. Swapping back to the Aq5 worked perfectly again. All the wiring remained the same between the two units. I sent the Aq6 back to the store and they sent me a new one that worked perfectly and has ever since.
> 
> I don't believe any external events could have caused the problem with mine.


Thank you for the feedback - yes - I plugged in a new one (I have 3 spare units for future builds) and it works fine. I hope AC will send me a new one once RMA the faulty one.


----------



## trinec44

Hello.

Is there any link to downloading the already configured sites to Aquasuite?


----------



## Mega Man

I dont understand what you mean? You want to download others fan profile ?

Usually useless as you dont usually have the exact setup they do. But it can be done.


----------



## trinec44

Yes, that's what I mean. It's just the graphics of the site, I adjust the adjustment parameters, but I can not find anything anywhere, so everybody creates the look for themselves


----------



## war4peace

Oh, not the fan profile but the dashboard looks!
I can't attach a sample here but yes, one can export the dashboard page as a .page file and then share it. The reason this is not done is that each item on the dashboard is linked to and gets data from a data source on the owner's PC. So even if you import it, it won't work until you change data source for each dashboard item to match your own. And then adjust various other settings such as min/max and so on.
It's best to do it yourself.


----------



## trinec44

Yes, I know the site can be edited. Basically, there are about 6 pages that install with the program and they can be configured according to your own (just change the descriptions and data sources), unfortunately they do not meet some of my requirements, so I thought there might be a list of users on the Internet, where they will want to boast their own creations. Well, I do not think so.


----------



## IT Diva

Hi Guys, . . .

Alive and well here . . . only slightly the worse for wear

Finally got a bit of internet back, WiFi at the resort is partially restored for all the first responders, ICE, Homeland Security, and special military teams setup here.

Still no internet at work or at home yet.

What a freakin' mess . . . barely 1 in 5 telephone poles still up and undamaged, roofs blown everywhere, not a green leaf on a tree to be found.

Won't be till after Christmas before most everyone has their power back.

We took some damage at the Casino, but not structural or severe . . . mostly water damage and cosmetics.

The resort across the street got trashed pretty badly, but everyone's working to get things back to some semblance of normal, or at least a "new normal".

Strangely enough, my X5 Tempered Glass Snow Edition, that I ordered Saturday before Maria ever became a hurricane, was at the post office today and I picked it up, not wet or damaged in any way.









Just wanted to let everyone know I made it thru.

Darlene


----------



## Mega Man

glad to hear it. praying for you


----------



## iamjanco

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Hi Guys, . . .
> 
> Alive and well here . . . only slightly the worse for wear
> 
> Finally got a bit of internet back, WiFi at the resort is partially restored for all the first responders, ICE, Homeland Security, and special military teams setup here.
> 
> Still no internet at work or at home yet.
> 
> What a freakin' mess . . . barely 1 in 5 telephone poles still up and undamaged, roofs blown everywhere, not a green leaf on a tree to be found.
> 
> Won't be till after Christmas before most everyone has their power back.
> 
> We took some damage at the Casino, but not structural or severe . . . mostly water damage and cosmetics.
> 
> The resort across the street got trashed pretty badly, but everyone's working to get things back to some semblance of normal, or at least a "new normal".
> 
> Strangely enough, my X5 Tempered Glass Snow Edition, that I ordered Saturday before Maria ever became a hurricane, was at the post office today and I picked it up, not wet or damaged in any way.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just wanted to let everyone know I made it thru.
> 
> Darlene


Glad to hear you're okay, Darlene.







Been a bad year for a lot of folks all 'round. Talked to my son this morning who works at the Flamingo in Vegas, after he im'd me he was okay. Whether the weather or just people, it's been crazy.


----------



## Barefooter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Hi Guys, . . .
> 
> Alive and well here . . . only slightly the worse for wear
> 
> Just wanted to let everyone know I made it thru.
> 
> Darlene


I've been wondering how you were doing. Glad to hear you are ok Darlene!

Hope all of your computer goodies are still intact as well.


----------



## IT Diva

Thanks everyone,

Internet is up, at least somewhat, at work, so I can get over my OCN withdrawal symptoms.


----------



## SpringY1989

I have my GPU Fans and CPU fans connected to 2 different aquacomputer splitty9's which are running at 40% depending on coolant temperature which is working a treat, the problem I'm having is controlling the front 3 fans just to let you know all my fans are 3pin non PWM. The front fans are connected to another splitty9 then into the CPU_FAN header but I have no way of controlling the speed and my 4 PWM headers on the 6XT are taken up by the GPU and CPU fans and the 2 pumps. Basically asking if I can daisy chain 2 splitty9s together? the fan cables themselves aren't long enough to reach the other splitty9s but the 4pin splitty9 cable is long enough to reach.


----------



## Bartdude

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SpringY1989*
> 
> I have my GPU Fans and CPU fans connected to 2 different aquacomputer splitty9's which are running at 40% depending on coolant temperature which is working a treat, the problem I'm having is controlling the front 3 fans just to let you know all my fans are 3pin non PWM. The front fans are connected to another splitty9 then into the CPU_FAN header but I have no way of controlling the speed and my 4 PWM headers on the 6XT are taken up by the GPU and CPU fans and the 2 pumps. Basically asking if I can daisy chain 2 splitty9s together? the fan cables themselves aren't long enough to reach the other splitty9s but the 4pin splitty9 cable is long enough to reach.


Can you give more info on what is on each fan header?


----------



## SpringY1989

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bartdude*
> 
> Can you give more info on what is on each fan header?


Just wanted to know if I can connect the splitty9 4 pin cable which currently has 3 fans connected, to a fan header on the splitty9 which has 4 fans connected. The fans are all noiseblocker BlackSilent Pro PL2 1200RPM.


----------



## Bartdude

Was just trying to ascertain several things so I could suggest options, I take it both pumps are running from 1 header? Do you have your fans on a curve? Did you specifically want the front fans added to another set of fans or would you prefer them on there own? You could use y cables to add them to your existing splitty9 or if you wanted a whole new header you could get a poweradjust.


----------



## SpringY1989

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bartdude*
> 
> Was just trying to ascertain several things so I could suggest options, I take it both pumps are running from 1 header? Do you have your fans on a curve? Did you specifically want the front fans added to another set of fans or would you prefer them on there own? You could use y cables to add them to your existing splitty9 or if you wanted a whole new header you could get a poweradjust.


Each pump is running of its own PWM header from the aquaero and 2 splitty9s with 4 fans connected to each are running off the other 2 PWM headers on the aquaero, these fans are set to a curve depending on water temperature, I would like the front fans to be added to the other fans so I can control them as well, that's why I wondered if I can just plug the PWM connector from the splitt9 that's controlling the front 3 fans into one of the free headers on the other splitty9 that's connected to the aquaero.


----------



## Bartdude

I'm not 100% sure if you can but if you ask over at https://forum.aquacomputer.de/weitere-foren/board8-english-forum/?s=c9a4a2418e3721a37a43132f528ec23b21756d1e Shoggy may know. Is there a reason you have your pumps separate? I run 2 EK D5's using a Y splitter to one PWM header.


----------



## SpringY1989

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bartdude*
> 
> I'm not 100% sure if you can but if you ask over at https://forum.aquacomputer.de/weitere-foren/board8-english-forum/?s=c9a4a2418e3721a37a43132f528ec23b21756d1e Shoggy may know. Is there a reason you have your pumps separate? I run 2 EK D5's using a Y splitter to one PWM header.


I have the pumps separate because I get a read out for each pump in case one decides to fail if I use a y splitter I'll only get 1 output reading, just been looking think a poweradjust will do the trick.


----------



## Mega Man

You can use a pwm splitter like the one Swiftech sells (the wire 2 to 1 splitter ) and plug the rpm monitoring lead into your mobo.


----------



## war4peace

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bartdude*
> 
> I'm not 100% sure if you can but if you ask over at https://forum.aquacomputer.de/weitere-foren/board8-english-forum/?s=c9a4a2418e3721a37a43132f528ec23b21756d1e Shoggy may know. Is there a reason you have your pumps separate? I run 2 EK D5's using a Y splitter to one PWM header.


Same here, only I also have a flow sensor so if the unmonitored pump fails I'll know.


----------



## GTXJackBauer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> You can use a pwm splitter like the one Swiftech sells (the wire 2 to 1 splitter ) and plug the rpm monitoring lead into your mobo.


I also have done this and works great.


----------



## Bartdude

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SpringY1989*
> 
> I have the pumps separate because I get a read out for each pump in case one decides to fail if I use a y splitter I'll only get 1 output reading, just been looking think a poweradjust will do the trick.


If you want to control the fans by there own curve a believe you need the ultra version


----------



## Mega Man

No. Ultra version is useless with the aquaero, ultra unlocks stand alone fan control options ( ie no aquaero and only a power adj )


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> No. Ultra version is useless with the aquaero, ultra unlocks stand alone fan control options ( ie no aquaero and only a power adj )


Yep, But for some strange reason Ultra version is cheaper. It's only reason I went with Ultra version vs Standard version with AQ6XT.


----------



## iamjanco

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> No. Ultra version is useless with the aquaero, ultra unlocks stand alone fan control options ( ie no aquaero and only a power adj )


Is that entirely true? It's my understanding that you can (also) still use the Ultra version the same way as the standard version as far adding voltage controlled fan channels are concerned, daisy-chaining them together after assigning each a unique id, then manage/monitor them using the AquaSuite software. But please correct me if I'm mistaken.

Maybe Shoggy could chime in here? @Shoggy

Reference:

This *thread* (e.g., one example of figuring out daisy-chained PowerAdjusts).

Also see *this*, and *this* (note how the PAs are daisy-chained).


----------



## Mega Man

I am sorry i poorly worded that, i should of said, the mark up you pay is not worth it, as the *differences* between the ultra and normal version is useless with the aquaero (ie you dont get anything extra nor does it add extra functionality when hooked up to the aquaero)


----------



## iamjanco

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> I am sorry i poorly worded that, i should of said, the mark up you pay is not worth it, as the *differences* between the ultra and normal version is useless with the aquaero (ie you dont get anything extra nor does it add extra functionality when hooked up to the aquaero)


Ah, thanks for the response, makes more sense now.


----------



## Revan654

New Built in Front Black Panel.


----------



## ophelan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> New Built in Front Black Panel.


Ugh I wish this was out a couple months ago. Completely butchered mine trying to put the black trim on; going to need to buy a new one and do it again.


----------



## jsutter71

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ophelan*
> 
> Ugh I wish this was out a couple months ago. Completely butchered mine trying to put the black trim on; going to need to buy a new one and do it again.


I just put the black trim over the silver trim using the screws to keep in place. No mess and you can't tell any difference.


----------



## Mega Man

That, would drive me nuts irl.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> New Built in Front Black Panel.


Wow.....


----------



## iamjanco

Changing the faceplate out is doable (obviously), but it really requires a full cleansing of the glue that's left after removing the oem faceplate AND *careful* handling/ application of the replacement 3M tape that accompanies the replacement faceplate. One small slip up and there's little that can be done to fix the error except start with a new piece of 3M tape from AC.

Incredibly sticky stuff, that tape, very much like *3M's 300LSE products*. I've got a variety of those that come in handy for certain tasks. Glad to see AC is now providing the black faceplate option.


----------



## Bartdude

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ophelan*
> 
> Ugh I wish this was out a couple months ago. Completely butchered mine trying to put the black trim on; going to need to buy a new one and do it again.


Didn't quite butcher mine but yeah removing the original, was one pig to get off!


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ophelan*
> 
> Ugh I wish this was out a couple months ago. Completely butchered mine trying to put the black trim on; going to need to buy a new one and do it again.


or just buy the replacement LCD & try again.

Soon or later I bet they will release this as a LCD replacement option.

Not sure why everyone had such trouble putting there faceplate on. The front plate is only held down with four screws.


----------



## Bartdude

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> or just buy the replacement LCD & try again.
> 
> Soon or later I bet they will release this as a LCD replacement option.
> 
> Not sure why everyone had such trouble putting there faceplate on. The front plate is only held down with four screws.


Because of the glue holding it in place, was like trying to separate dogs mating!


----------



## ophelan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> or just buy the replacement LCD & try again.
> 
> Soon or later I bet they will release this as a LCD replacement option.
> 
> Not sure why everyone had such trouble putting there faceplate on. The front plate is only held down with four screws.


Yeah, replacement LCD + bezel...or wait for AC to release that combo, as I'd really prefer not to try it again myself if I can avoid it. That glue is just ridiculously sticky, and difficult to remove. If I do it again I might consider using a little heat to help.


----------



## Shoggy

As Mega Man said: if you combine a poweradjust with an aquaero via aquabus it does not matter if you use the standard or ultra variant since there will be no difference. So you can save some money by using the standard variant. The ultra variant is more interesting for customers that use it as a stand alone device.


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ophelan*
> 
> Yeah, replacement LCD + bezel...or wait for AC to release that combo, as I'd really prefer not to try it again myself if I can avoid it. That glue is just ridiculously sticky, and difficult to remove. If I do it again I might consider using a little heat to help.


I guess I luck out three times in a row or something. I never had an issue removing the screen. Only issue I did have was one of the screens the holes were a bit off set. Which didn't allow the black plate to cover the front plate correctly & the screws would not hit the stand-offs with the plate installed. Thankfully Aqua-Computer send me a replacement screen to correct the issue.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> As Mega Man said: if you combine a poweradjust with an aquaero via aquabus it does not matter if you use the standard or ultra variant since there will be no difference. So you can save some money by using the standard variant. The ultra variant is more interesting for customers that use it as a stand alone device.


Unless they sell the Ultra version 5 dollars cheaper then the standard edition for some reason. I got three PA3 Ultra for 34 dollars each, Where standard edition was 42 dollars.


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jsutter71*
> 
> I just put the black trim over the silver trim using the screws to keep in place. No mess and you can't tell any difference.


Might want to replace the silver screws with blacks screens to complete the Black look.


----------



## plant

What kind of temp sensors does the aquaero come with? It says it comes with 4 but doesn't specify. Are they G1/4, probe, in-line, etc?

And would the 5 LT be fine if I just want to run 6 fans (through powered splitters) or should I just spend the extra $40 on the 6 LT?


----------



## jsutter71

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> Might want to replace the silver screws with blacks screens to complete the Black look.


Looking at it up close it seems a little off with the silver screws, but looking at the big picture it doesn't look to bad.


----------



## war4peace

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *plant*
> 
> What kind of temp sensors does the aquaero come with? It says it comes with 4 but doesn't specify. Are they G1/4, probe, in-line, etc?
> 
> And would the 5 LT be fine if I just want to run 6 fans (through powered splitters) or should I just spend the extra $40 on the 6 LT?


It comes with 4 T-probes, the "flat heads" I call them, 10Kohm @25 degrees Celsius.
You don't need powered splitters to run fans with Aquaero, unless they're high-power bench fans such as Deltas or Nidec Servo high RPM. If you have many PWM fans, get the Aquaero 6, if you have voltage-regulated fans get the Aquaero 5.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *plant*
> 
> What kind of temp sensors does the aquaero come with? It says it comes with 4 but doesn't specify. Are they G1/4, probe, in-line, etc?
> 
> And would the 5 LT be fine if I just want to run 6 fans (through powered splitters) or should I just spend the extra $40 on the 6 LT?


Imo there is no reason to get a 5 Anymore. The pros of the 6 far outweigh it. Voltage control and low vrm temps, and 4 pwm ports when / if you upgrade


----------



## war4peace

To some people, 40 dollars is a pretty good reason


----------



## Mega Man

what about after you spend the money to buy the heatsink ?


----------



## looniam

so ah, since i don't have one; any issues with just grabbing "any" usb extention cable?

most of what i see in the u.s. are startechs . . .

srsly, setting curves and whatnot atm is a real pita!


----------



## ophelan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *looniam*
> 
> so ah, since i don't have one; any issues with just grabbing "any" usb extention cable?
> 
> most of what i see in the u.s. are startechs . . .
> 
> srsly, setting curves and whatnot atm is a real pita!


I used one of these extensions to get mine setup initially: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B000V6WD8A

It's pretty short, so you'll still need a female-female cable to go with it.


----------



## GTXJackBauer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> Imo there is no reason to get a 5 Anymore. The pros of the 6 far outweigh it. Voltage control and low vrm temps, and 4 pwm ports when / if you upgrade


Agree. It's a better investment because of the improvements and upgrades to it as opposed to the 5.


----------



## plant

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *war4peace*
> 
> It comes with 4 T-probes, the "flat heads" I call them, 10Kohm @25 degrees Celsius.
> You don't need powered splitters to run fans with Aquaero, unless they're high-power bench fans such as Deltas or Nidec Servo high RPM. If you have many PWM fans, get the Aquaero 6, if you have voltage-regulated fans get the Aquaero 5.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> Imo there is no reason to get a 5 Anymore. The pros of the 6 far outweigh it. Voltage control and low vrm temps, and 4 pwm ports when / if you upgrade


Thank you guys very much, I'll get the 6 then.

More questions:

Regarding the included "flat heads", do you recommend using them? They look like they'd be ok for ambient temp, but probably not water temp.

Also, do I need to have the aquaero plugged in via USB and the software running at all times, or am I good to disconnect it once I get everything set up?

Basically I'm sick of never having a fan curve that I'm happy with and I will only be using aquaero for a water/ambient delta fan curve.


----------



## bellyflopdog

Use the included flat heads for stuff like ambient and internal case temp, etc. That's what I did. For coolant temp I used and Alphacool temp sensor plug. Barrow, Bitspower and Phobya make them too. Just be aware that the Phobya ones are very long vs the other brands.

Once you set up the Aquero you can disconnect the USB cable. It will store the settings onboard. You can monitor everything from something like HWmonitor.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *plant*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *war4peace*
> 
> It comes with 4 T-probes, the "flat heads" I call them, 10Kohm @25 degrees Celsius.
> You don't need powered splitters to run fans with Aquaero, unless they're high-power bench fans such as Deltas or Nidec Servo high RPM. If you have many PWM fans, get the Aquaero 6, if you have voltage-regulated fans get the Aquaero 5.
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> Imo there is no reason to get a 5 Anymore. The pros of the 6 far outweigh it. Voltage control and low vrm temps, and 4 pwm ports when / if you upgrade
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Thank you guys very much, I'll get the 6 then.
> 
> More questions:
> 
> Regarding the included "flat heads", do you recommend using them? They look like they'd be ok for ambient temp, but probably not water temp.
> 
> Also, do I need to have the aquaero plugged in via USB and the software running at all times, or am I good to disconnect it once I get everything set up?
> 
> Basically I'm sick of never having a fan curve that I'm happy with and I will only be using aquaero for a water/ambient delta fan curve.
Click to expand...

The above is accurate. You can also tape them to things for surface temps.

You do not need to have the usb plugged in or the program running, the aquaero is 100% capable of running independent


----------



## TheRedViper

So how do you configure the aquaero to duplicate your pump speed reading from the fan port 2 and 3 and send it through the rpm port? (I have a rpm cable going from the rpm port to my mobo cpu_opt). Since I my aquaero controls everything, I had this idea to send a signal to the mobo like if I was running a cooler there, so that if one of the pump fails, mobo shutsdown the pc.


----------



## war4peace

You can't for both pumps, either way your solution isn't optimal.
If you want your PC to turn off abruptly when either pump fails to run, then you have to look up Relay and Alarm Actions functionality.
I can't provide screenshots because I am not at my PC right now, but first you need to go to Aquasuite Alarm Configuration and add an entry for each pump. You set "no rpm signal for x seconds" (x is 6, 12 and 24 if I remember correctly) and then pick an alarm type to be triggered.
Then you go to Alarm Actions and for the particular alarm you have previously chosen, you add an action: Relay ON.
Then, you need to have one of these mounted in your PC: aquaero power connect - 24 pin ATX standby power / ATX break and, of course, as is typical for Aquacomputer (seriously guys, it really sucks to order what you think is the whole product and discover you have to order a 99 cents plug still!), you also have to get a Plug for relay connector, 3 contacts (for aquaero 5 and 6).

After you've done all that, whenever either of the pumps stops spinning for X seconds (that you configured in Alarm Configuration), your PC will shut down as if you have pressed the power button.


----------



## TheRedViper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *war4peace*
> 
> You can't for both pumps, either way your solution isn't optimal.
> If you want your PC to turn off abruptly when either pump fails to run, then you have to look up Relay and Alarm Actions functionality.
> I can't provide screenshots because I am not at my PC right now, but first you need to go to Aquasuite Alarm Configuration and add an entry for each pump. You set "no rpm signal for x seconds" (x is 6, 12 and 24 if I remember correctly) and then pick an alarm type to be triggered.
> Then you go to Alarm Actions and for the particular alarm you have previously chosen, you add an action: Relay ON.
> Then, you need to have one of these mounted in your PC: aquaero power connect - 24 pin ATX standby power / ATX break and, of course, as is typical for Aquacomputer (seriously guys, it really sucks to order what you think is the whole product and discover you have to order a 99 cents plug still!), you also have to get a Plug for relay connector, 3 contacts (for aquaero 5 and 6).
> 
> After you've done all that, whenever either of the pumps stops spinning for X seconds (that you configured in Alarm Configuration), your PC will shut down as if you have pressed the power button.


Im pretty sure either the manual or a rep told me to do the rpm port technique.


----------



## war4peace

The RPM port also works, however the method I provided above is OS-independent and BIOS-independent. It's strictly Aquaero and PSU, nothing in between. Oh and it works.
I also have two pumps but I chained them together via a PWM splitter because my alarm is based on liquid flow rather than pump rotation. The reason is my pumps are in series so if one fails, the system can keep going. But if the liquid flow reaches very low levels, the PC will shut down.


----------



## TheRedViper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *war4peace*
> 
> The RPM port also works, however the method I provided above is OS-independent and BIOS-independent. It's strictly Aquaero and PSU, nothing in between. Oh and it works.
> I also have two pumps but I chained them together via a PWM splitter because my alarm is based on liquid flow rather than pump rotation. The reason is my pumps are in series so if one fails, the system can keep going. But if the liquid flow reaches very low levels, the PC will shut down.


My two pumps each have their own loop and they each have their fan port on the aquaero (fan port 2 and 3)


----------



## war4peace

Same principle applies.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheRedViper*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *war4peace*
> 
> You can't for both pumps, either way your solution isn't optimal.
> If you want your PC to turn off abruptly when either pump fails to run, then you have to look up Relay and Alarm Actions functionality.
> I can't provide screenshots because I am not at my PC right now, but first you need to go to Aquasuite Alarm Configuration and add an entry for each pump. You set "no rpm signal for x seconds" (x is 6, 12 and 24 if I remember correctly) and then pick an alarm type to be triggered.
> Then you go to Alarm Actions and for the particular alarm you have previously chosen, you add an action: Relay ON.
> Then, you need to have one of these mounted in your PC: aquaero power connect - 24 pin ATX standby power / ATX break and, of course, as is typical for Aquacomputer (seriously guys, it really sucks to order what you think is the whole product and discover you have to order a 99 cents plug still!), you also have to get a Plug for relay connector, 3 contacts (for aquaero 5 and 6).
> 
> After you've done all that, whenever either of the pumps stops spinning for X seconds (that you configured in Alarm Configuration), your PC will shut down as if you have pressed the power button.
> 
> 
> 
> Im pretty sure either the manual or a rep told me to do the rpm port technique.
Click to expand...

You can not do what you want, exactly, you can do this, set up alarms so that at power on your rpm port signal turns on, then create alarm conditions that if fan channel rpms reach 0 to shut off rpm port signal.

It will not mirror your pump rpm, just a generic rpm.

I suggest reading the manual cover to cover


----------



## TheRedViper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> You can not do what you want, exactly, you can do this, set up alarms so that at power on your rpm port signal turns on, then create alarm conditions that if fan channel rpms reach 0 to shut off rpm port signal.
> 
> It will not mirror your pump rpm, just a generic rpm.
> 
> I suggest reading the manual cover to cover


I didnt explain my plan correctly then. What I want to do is to have both fan port 2 or 3 (which each hold a pump from a different loop) to be able to cut the signal from the rpm port (which would send a false 100% in its original state or whatever is available) which is connected to the cpu_opt port on the mobo then have the bios shutdown the pc when cpu_opt = 0.


----------



## Mega Man

Which is what i just explained above


----------



## Revan654

Anyone know what the RMA policy is for OLED Screens(Vision)? I'm just getting around to installing my vision blocks both screens are cracked. It looks like it happened during shipping. I should have opened the box up when I first got it, It's way beyond the return window.


----------



## TheRedViper

Just started my aquaero 6 with another psu that i had laying around so i can configure fans, pumps and alarms but i have a few questions.

1) how do you let the aquaero know the fan channel 2 and 3 are actually pump pwm signals.

2) i have a 3 pin rpm cable linking the rpm port of the aquaero to my mobo cpu_opt. How do i make the rpm port send 0 rpm for shutdown purpose? (I set up an alarm that reads the speed of channel port 2 and another for port 3 and both are set to emergency shutdown after 6s. Will this cut the rpm port to 0 rpm or do i need to configure the rpm port somehow? Does it sends 100% output with factory settings?)

3) my vision module from my kryos next cooler is connected to the aquaero usb port but its not working?


----------



## Ashcroft

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheRedViper*
> 
> Just started my aquaero 6 with another psu that i had laying around so i can configure fans, pumps and alarms but i have a few questions.
> 
> 1) how do you let the aquaero know the fan channel 2 and 3 are actually pump pwm signals.
> 
> 2) i have a 3 pin rpm cable linking the rpm port of the aquaero to my mobo cpu_opt. How do i make the rpm port send 0 rpm for shutdown purpose? (I set up an alarm that reads the speed of channel port 2 and another for port 3 and both are set to emergency shutdown after 6s. Will this cut the rpm port to 0 rpm or do i need to configure the rpm port somehow? Does it sends 100% output with factory settings?)
> 
> 3) my vision module from my kryos next cooler is connected to the aquaero usb port but its not working?


There is no way to set the fan headers as pump headers as there is no difference anyway.

For the RPM port you need to configure an alarm action as "speed signal off" and assign that action to an alarm config like you have the emergency shutdown after 6s. You can assign multiple actions to each alarm state config so you can just add the speed signal stop to what you already have.
I'm not 100% sure that shutdown will kill the speed signal anyway but I imagine it would.

The speed signal output is a random RPM at a steady speed. I think its something around 3000rpm? It doesn't vary in any way, just on and off.

The Aquaero USB port is only used to connect the Aquaero to your MB. It is not for connecting other devices. The vision modules USB is for the same purpose, to connect to the MB


----------



## TheRedViper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ashcroft*
> 
> There is no way to set the fan headers as pump headers as there is no difference anyway.
> 
> For the RPM port you need to configure an alarm action as "speed signal off" and assign that action to an alarm config like you have the emergency shutdown after 6s. You can assign multiple actions to each alarm state config so you can just add the speed signal stop to what you already have.
> I'm not 100% sure that shutdown will kill the speed signal anyway but I imagine it would.
> 
> The speed signal output is a random RPM at a steady speed. I think its something around 3000rpm? It doesn't vary in any way, just on and off.
> 
> The Aquaero USB port is only used to connect the Aquaero to your MB. It is not for connecting other devices. The vision modules USB is for the same purpose, to connect to the MB


Im a bit confused about the usd cable connection as polarity seems to change between mobo and aquaero


----------



## Shoggy

If you would have not removed the sticker you would immediately realize that you have connected the USB cable in reverse











On the mainboard you can always use the side with the missing pin as orientation. This side is the one where the black ground cable must be connected (the second 4-pin row also works).


----------



## TheRedViper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> If you would have not removed the sticker you would immediately realize that you have connected the USB cable in reverse
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On the mainboard you can always use the side with the missing pin as orientation. This side is the one where the black ground cable must be connected (the second 4-pin row also works).


So i must connect the kryos next to the aquaero then the aquaero to the pc on usb 2.0? Whats the orientation on usb 2.0?


----------



## Captaincaveman

Hi,

I have a mps-400 flow sensor connected (currently both usb to pc and aquabus to aquaero 6). In aquasuite I can see it on the side menu, but when I open its configuration tab, the flow is shown as 0.
I did have it connected incorrectly (swapped in and out), but since then fix that and it's still showing 0 l/h.

Another problem is that I cannot get it to work when connection is only via aquabus. When I select priority aquabus and disconnect the usb cable, aquasuite claims the device is no present and suggests I remove it from the list.


----------



## apw63

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Captaincaveman*
> 
> Hi,
> 
> I have a mps-400 flow sensor connected (currently both usb to pc and aquabus to aquaero 6). In aquasuite I can see it on the side menu, but when I open its configuration tab, the flow is shown as 0.
> I did have it connected incorrectly (swapped in and out), but since then fix that and it's still showing 0 l/h.
> 
> Another problem is that I cannot get it to work when connection is only via aquabus. When I select priority aquabus and disconnect the usb cable, aquasuite claims the device is no present and suggests I remove it from the list.


I had this issue when I first got mps-400. My issue was, I was using a Pwm fan cable I made. When I switch to the AC aquabus cable it started working. I don't know if this I your issue or not, just passing along experience.


----------



## Captaincaveman

Thanks apw63. However, I am using an original AC aquabus cable.


----------



## TheRedViper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> If you would have not removed the sticker you would immediately realize that you have connected the USB cable in reverse
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On the mainboard you can always use the side with the missing pin as orientation. This side is the one where the black ground cable must be connected (the second 4-pin row also works).


So i plugged the cable coming out of the kryos next on the 5 pin the i took the provided usb cable in the aquaero box and plugged it right under (it has 4 pins instead of 5?) Then i sent that cable to the aquaero usb port


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Captaincaveman*
> 
> Hi,
> 
> I have a mps-400 flow sensor connected (currently both usb to pc and aquabus to aquaero 6). In aquasuite I can see it on the side menu, but when I open its configuration tab, the flow is shown as 0.
> I did have it connected incorrectly (swapped in and out), but since then fix that and it's still showing 0 l/h.
> 
> Another problem is that I cannot get it to work when connection is only via aquabus. When I select priority aquabus and disconnect the usb cable, aquasuite claims the device is no present and suggests I remove it from the list.


The location changes when using aquabus.

It is under the aquaero, after configuring to aquabus,


----------



## Captaincaveman

Thanks Mega Man. Pretty sure I checked there but I might be mistaken. Will retest.
Also, played in aquasuite and decided to change the device in the drop down from "flow sensor mps flow" to something else, which of course didn't work. However, when I switched it back to the correct option, I suddenly got a flow reading. Go figure. So now sitting at 100 l/h with pump at 20%


----------



## Captaincaveman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> The location changes when using aquabus.
> 
> It is under the aquaero, after configuring to aquabus,


Disconnected the usb and the mps flow is now showing as disconnected and there's nothing on the aquaero menu.
The aquabus page of the aquaero menu shows nothing under currently connected aquabus devices.


----------



## Mega Man

You have to know where to look and i am not at home to show you

It will show as disconnected with the little "no usb" symbol, because it is.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheRedViper*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> If you would have not removed the sticker you would immediately realize that you have connected the USB cable in reverse
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On the mainboard you can always use the side with the missing pin as orientation. This side is the one where the black ground cable must be connected (the second 4-pin row also works).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So i plugged the cable coming out of the kryos next on the 5 pin the i took the provided usb cable in the aquaero box and plugged it right under (it has 4 pins instead of 5?) Then i sent that cable to the aquaero usb port
Click to expand...

the 4th point is ground the 5th is just sheilding and not recruited


----------



## apw63

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Captaincaveman*
> 
> Disconnected the usb and the mps flow is now showing as disconnected and there's nothing on the aquaero menu.
> The aquabus page of the aquaero menu shows nothing under currently connected aquabus devices.


I have to ask to eliminate potential issues. You are using the 4 pin aquabus cable not the 3 pin. If you use the 3 pin you need the usb for power.


----------



## Captaincaveman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *apw63*
> 
> I have to ask to eliminate potential issues. You are using the 4 pin aquabus cable not the 3 pin. If you use the 3 pin you need the usb for power.


using the 4 pin aquabus cable.


----------



## Ashcroft

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Captaincaveman*
> 
> Disconnected the usb and the mps flow is now showing as disconnected and there's nothing on the aquaero menu.
> The aquabus page of the aquaero menu shows nothing under currently connected aquabus devices.


The Aquaero needs to be fully disconnected from power when connecting Aquabus devices. That includes standby USB power so you need to switch off the PSU fully or disconnect all cables, then add the Aquabus connections and reconnect the USB and power cables. You can normally hot plug the USB devices but not Aquabus, it can be picky and may take a couple tries.

As long as the Aquabus device has been set to a unique adress it should show up under connected aquabus devices. When it does it will also appear under the Sensors/flow sensors tab on the Aquaero menu


----------



## Captaincaveman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ashcroft*
> 
> The Aquaero needs to be fully disconnected from power when connecting Aquabus devices. That includes standby USB power so you need to switch off the PSU fully or disconnect all cables, then reconnect everything and add the Aquabus connections. You can normally hot plug the USB devices but not Aquabus, it can be picky and may take a couple tries.
> 
> As long as the Aquabus device has been set to a unique adress it should show up under connected aquabus devices. When it does it will also appear under the Sensors/flow sensors tab on the Aquaero menu


Thanks!
Did not know about the power connection.
I'll give that a try later on and update here.


----------



## TheRedViper

So how should i plug my vision module into the mobo usb2.0 port from the kryos next cooler?

I currently have it plugged like this 

But someone told me I need to flip it so that black comes first, but its confusing because the mobo manual says otherwise? 

But then again so does the vision one

I also have the second cable under that goes to the aquaero usb port. Do i need to flip it too? What about its orientation on the aquaero?


----------



## docsys

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheRedViper*
> 
> So how should i plug my vision module into the mobo usb2.0 port from the kryos next cooler?
> 
> I currently have it plugged like this
> 
> But someone told me I need to flip it so that black comes first, but its confusing because the mobo manual says otherwise?
> 
> But then again so does the vision one
> 
> I also have the second cable under that goes to the aquaero usb port. Do i need to flip it too? What about its orientation on the aquaero?


MoBo and Aquaero seem to be connected properly and the manual page for the Vision clearly tells about it color coding wise. I personally have no eperience with the Vision but if you follow the color coding you should be golden. If not - contact Aquacomputer directly. They will help you out.


----------



## stefxyz

Hi,

May be someone had the same idea and found a solution already.

I am looking for a plastic box (ideally black) where I can put in my Aquaero 6 Pro.

It should be open on the back but fcover the side and top. Reason is I dont want to mount it in the front anymore so I have space for a 3rd case fan but will place it on top of my 2 reservoirs.

I will be able to read the display just fine through the side panel window.

So far my only idea is black duck tape...


----------



## Jubijub

Moving forward with my build, and just need a few confirmations :

Setup :
- AQ6 XT
- 2x D5 pump with USB / Aquabus
- Aqualis XT with USB / Aquabus
- 1x flow sensor (with flow port, not USB/Aquabus)

- All devices will be plugged with USB + Aquabus 3 pin (I understand the 4th pin is not required as it brings +5v which is already brought by USB or direct Molex power)
- as per the discussion above, to start all this up, I will need :
1. to plug everything
2. to launch Aquasuite to assign Aquabus ID to the different devices, and to set the flow sensor calibration value
3. I don't need to unplug the USB as it will bring the power for the devices "intelligent" part to operate

Is all this correct ?


----------



## wa3pnt

"Hi,

May be someone had the same idea and found a solution already.

I am looking for a plastic box (ideally black) where I can put in my Aquaero 6 Pro.

It should be open on the back but fcover the side and top. Reason is I dont want to mount it in the front anymore so I have space for a 3rd case fan but will place it on top of my 2 reservoirs.

I will be able to read the display just fine through the side panel window.

So far my only idea is black duck tape...

Perhaps you can find a suitable enclosure at this link. You can leave the back open.

http://www.bgmicro.com/Project-Boxes.aspx

RodeoGeorge


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jubijub*
> 
> Moving forward with my build, and just need a few confirmations :
> 
> Setup :
> - AQ6 XT
> - 2x D5 pump with USB / Aquabus
> - Aqualis XT with USB / Aquabus
> - 1x flow sensor (with flow port, not USB/Aquabus)
> 
> - All devices will be plugged with USB + Aquabus 3 pin (I understand the 4th pin is not required as it brings +5v which is already brought by USB or direct Molex power)
> - as per the discussion above, to start all this up, I will need :
> 1. to plug everything
> 2. to launch Aquasuite to assign Aquabus ID to the different devices, and to set the flow sensor calibration value
> 3. I don't need to unplug the USB as it will bring the power for the devices "intelligent" part to operate
> 
> Is all this correct ?


correct


----------



## TheRedViper

For Aquacomputer pumps (not the aquabus ones) connected to an aquaero 6 fan port, do you have to set them in Aquasuite at DC, rpm or pwm controlled to adjust their speed with a preset?


----------



## bellyflopdog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheRedViper*
> 
> For Aquacomputer pumps (not the aquabus ones) connected to an aquaero 6 fan port, do you have to set them in Aquasuite at DC, rpm or pwm controlled to adjust their speed with a preset?


I have my Aquacomputer D5 PWM hooked to fan out #3. In settings for that fan I named it pump and set min power to 99% and max to 100%. Then set it to power controlled and 4850rpm in advanced settings. The pump runs at 4832rpm. To do a pwm with a curve you have to set up a controller for the output and then you can set a "fan" curve.

Edit: I have an Aquero 6LT


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheRedViper*
> 
> For Aquacomputer pumps (not the aquabus ones) connected to an aquaero 6 fan port, do you have to set them in Aquasuite at DC, rpm or pwm controlled to adjust their speed with a preset?


rpm, and power mode are roughly the same ( they both control speed with voltage )

i will assume you have a pwm pump, ( if you have a little red dial on the back of the d5 it is a vario which is controlled by the little red dial )you want to select pwm

@Shoggy

3 days in a row now i have come home and aquasuite is using 95% of my ram ( 16gb ) and i have to force close it (i dont check my page file, just ram )


----------



## spyui

Does anyone know why i can't get my fan run at full 12V ? It always stuck at 11.7V for me.


----------



## Mega Man

that is 12 v

there is a small voltage drop due to the physics of electronics 11.8-11.7 is normal. ( and 0.3v will not change your speed in any significant way)


----------



## TheRedViper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> that is 12 v
> 
> there is a small voltage drop due to the physics of electronics 11.8-11.7 is normal. ( and 0.3v will not change your speed in any significant way)


Whats the rpm range on these d5s? I know 4800rpm is 100% but whats the minimum


----------



## Mega Man

No idea


----------



## Excession

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheRedViper*
> 
> Whats the rpm range on these d5s? I know 4800rpm is 100% but whats the minimum


My PWM D5 gets 1330 RPM at 1%. At 0% (no PWM signal) it runs at full speed.


----------



## looniam

you sure its not 1337 RPM?


----------



## Barefooter

*Updating Firmware and reflashing Aquaero 6 LT into a Slave with a different computer?*

I have an Aquaero 6 XT in my existing daily use computer. I'm building a new rig with Aquaero 6 XT and an Aquaero 6 LT that I want to slave to the Aquaero 6 XT.

I do not even have the motherboard yet, so my question is can I temporarily connect both the new Aquaeros to my existing computer via USB to update the firmware and then flash the Aquaero LT into a slave unit? Do I need the molex plugged into the new Aquaeros to perform this.

I seem to remember reading some place that this can be done but cannot find it now.

@Shoggy could you comment on this please. Also I assume this will not effect my software licensing in any way?

Thanks in advance for any input!


----------



## GTXJackBauer

I believe you could do it with just the 5v USB but I'll let someone else chime in who has done such thing to be 100% sure here.


----------



## Jubijub

Question regarding the temp sensors included with the AQ6 : do they have a polarity ?

I was casually discussing with my wife while sleeving one, inadvertently removed the marker I put to show the plus wire, and now I have no idea which one is plus and which is minus.









I didn't see any markets on the sensor itself...

I have no idea how to test this with a multimeter either...


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jubijub*
> 
> Question regarding the temp sensors included with the AQ6 : do they have a polarity ?
> 
> I was casually discussing with my wife while sleeving one, inadvertently removed the marker I put to show the plus wire, and now I have no idea which one is plus and which is minus.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I didn't see any markets on the sensor itself...
> 
> I have no idea how to test this with a multimeter either...


I don't think they do, I have plugged them in different ways in the past & they all works just fine.


----------



## iamjanco

Thermistors have no polarity.

They are like resistors, but a thermistor changes its value according to the temperature. The AQ temp sensor is spec'd for a thermal resistance of 10 kOhm (at 25°C) at the connection to the Aquaero.


----------



## Jubijub

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iamjanco*
> 
> Thermistors have no polarity.
> 
> They are like resistors, but a thermistor changes its value according to the temperature. The AQ temp sensor is spec'd for a thermal resistance of 10 kOhm (at 25°C) at the connection to the Aquaero.


Wonderful, so I can continue my sleeving...

Out of curiosity : is there a way to read the temp with a multimeter (I understand a fomula would be required to transform kOhm into °C)

Shall I just plug it on Ohm mode and read the resistance, or do I need external power ?


----------



## iamjanco

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jubijub*
> 
> Wonderful, so I can continue my sleeving...
> 
> Out of curiosity : is there a way to read the temp with a multimeter (I understand a fomula would be required to transform kOhm into °C)
> 
> Shall I just plug it on Ohm mode and read the resistance, or do I need external power ?


I'd have to dig deeper but I believe the 10kOhm 25°C is a commonly used unofficial standard among measuring devices of that kind (*Fluke thermistors* are spec'd the same way). As for how that temp measurement is calculated, you might want to have a look at what's mentioned about Steinhart and Hart's work halfway down *this page*.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Barefooter*
> 
> *Updating Firmware and reflashing Aquaero 6 LT into a Slave with a different computer?*
> 
> I have an Aquaero 6 XT in my existing daily use computer. I'm building a new rig with Aquaero 6 XT and an Aquaero 6 LT that I want to slave to the Aquaero 6 XT.
> 
> I do not even have the motherboard yet, so my question is can I temporarily connect both the new Aquaeros to my existing computer via USB to update the firmware and then flash the Aquaero LT into a slave unit? Do I need the molex plugged into the new Aquaeros to perform this.
> 
> I seem to remember reading some place that this can be done but cannot find it now.
> 
> @Shoggy could you comment on this please. Also I assume this will not effect my software licensing in any way?
> 
> Thanks in advance for any input!


The aquaero is a cpu in and of itself, it is designed to be run without a pc, the usb is just a way for you to monitor what it's doing, and set it up. It isnt needed, so to answer your question, yes you can hook it up.

The only thing you will do is activate your license, you won't effect it in any way
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jubijub*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *iamjanco*
> 
> Thermistors have no polarity.
> 
> They are like resistors, but a thermistor changes its value according to the temperature. The AQ temp sensor is spec'd for a thermal resistance of 10 kOhm (at 25°C) at the connection to the Aquaero.
> 
> 
> 
> Wonderful, so I can continue my sleeving...
> 
> Out of curiosity : is there a way to read the temp with a multimeter (I understand a fomula would be required to transform kOhm into °C)
> 
> Shall I just plug it on Ohm mode and read the resistance, or do I need external power ?
Click to expand...

Yes you read resistance, and look at a chat to change ohms to deg


----------



## Shoggy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> 3 days in a row now i have come home and aquasuite is using 95% of my ram ( 16gb ) and i have to force close it (i dont check my page file, just ram )


Can not tell what is going on there but wait for the next update that will be available in a couple of days. There have been so many changes and some of them are also addressing the RAM usage.


----------



## Shoggy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Barefooter*
> 
> *Updating Firmware and reflashing Aquaero 6 LT into a Slave with a different computer?*
> 
> I have an Aquaero 6 XT in my existing daily use computer. I'm building a new rig with Aquaero 6 XT and an Aquaero 6 LT that I want to slave to the Aquaero 6 XT.
> 
> I do not even have the motherboard yet, so my question is can I temporarily connect both the new Aquaeros to my existing computer via USB to update the firmware and then flash the Aquaero LT into a slave unit? Do I need the molex plugged into the new Aquaeros to perform this.
> 
> I seem to remember reading some place that this can be done but cannot find it now.
> 
> @Shoggy could you comment on this please. Also I assume this will not effect my software licensing in any way?
> 
> Thanks in advance for any input!


It does not matter which PC you use, so it will work of course. USB is enough to flash the device. The regular power must no be connected.


----------



## Barefooter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> The aquaero is a cpu in and of itself, it is designed to be run without a pc, the usb is just a way for you to monitor what it's doing, and set it up. It isnt needed, so to answer your question, yes you can hook it up.
> 
> The only thing you will do is activate your license, you won't effect it in any way


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> It does not matter which PC you use, so it will work of course. USB is enough to flash the device. The regular power must no be connected.


Thanks guys for answering my question. I thought it would work, just wanted to make sure


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> 3 days in a row now i have come home and aquasuite is using 95% of my ram ( 16gb ) and i have to force close it (i dont check my page file, just ram )
> 
> 
> 
> Can not tell what is going on there but wait for the next update that will be available in a couple of days. There have been so many changes and some of them are also addressing the RAM usage.
Click to expand...

Np, it is more worthy to report, i have no logging enabled on this pc, just windows 10... which windows have been reeking havoc and attempting to break


----------



## Eusbwoa18

So my interest in the Aquaero has been piqued. Is there a good Aquaero for dummies thread? I'll have about 12 GT fans and 2 DDC pumps in my new build that I want to run off a controller and I understand that running too many devices on the Aquaero is "no RMA" kinda bad.

Trying to figure out what I would need to get started. Any help, direction to reading, etc. would be appreciated.

Thanks!


----------



## Jubijub

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pgdeaner*
> 
> So my interest in the Aquaero has been piqued. Is there a good Aquaero for dummies thread? I'll have about 12 GT fans and 2 DDC pumps in my new build that I want to run off a controller and I understand that running too many devices on the Aquaero is "no RMA" kinda bad.
> 
> Trying to figure out what I would need to get started. Any help, direction to reading, etc. would be appreciated.
> 
> Thanks!


Ask here, this is where I learned too.
So :
- to drive fans / pumps you have 4 possible channels, each of which supporting max 30W (2.5A * 12V)
- most likely, this means each pump will take its own channel
- with the 2 channel remaining, you can use an AquaComputer accessory called Splitty9, that is essentially a 1:9 PWM hub. So with 2 you should be able to drive your GTs (just check amperage on those)
- AQ6 ships with air temp sensors, but if you want to drive through Delta T° air/water, you'd need to add a water temp sensor


----------



## Eusbwoa18

Makes sense. If the fans need more than the remaining 2 channels would you end up slaving a 6LT or something like that?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jubijub*
> 
> Ask here, this is where I learned too.
> So :
> - to drive fans / pumps you have 4 possible channels, each of which supporting max 30W (2.5A * 12V)
> - most likely, this means each pump will take its own channel
> - with the 2 channel remaining, you can use an AquaComputer accessory called Splitty9, that is essentially a 1:9 PWM hub. So with 2 you should be able to drive your GTs (just check amperage on those)
> - AQ6 ships with air temp sensors, but if you want to drive through Delta T° air/water, you'd need to add a water temp sensor


----------



## Barefooter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pgdeaner*
> 
> So my interest in the Aquaero has been piqued. Is there a good Aquaero for dummies thread? I'll have about 12 GT fans and 2 DDC pumps in my new build that I want to run off a controller and I understand that running too many devices on the Aquaero is "no RMA" kinda bad.
> 
> Trying to figure out what I would need to get started. Any help, direction to reading, etc. would be appreciated.
> 
> Thanks!


As Jubijub stated you can always ask questions here.

Here's two links to give you something to read up on. They are both fairly dated and cover the Aquaero 5, but most of the info still applies. The Aquaero 6 has four PWM channels instead of just one like the Aquaero 5.

Nam's Aquaero Set-up Guide

Martin's Aquaero Guide

There's definitely a learning curve to get started, but well worth it!


----------



## apw63

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pgdeaner*
> 
> So my interest in the Aquaero has been piqued. Is there a good Aquaero for dummies thread? I'll have about 12 GT fans and 2 DDC pumps in my new build that I want to run off a controller and I understand that running too many devices on the Aquaero is "no RMA" kinda bad.
> 
> Trying to figure out what I would need to get started. Any help, direction to reading, etc. would be appreciated.
> 
> Thanks!


This is old but still relevant. My Aquaero 5 Review & Guide & BASIC HOW TO SET UP GUIDE. This is what I used to get started with my Aquaero 6. This should give your a really good base of knowledge. After that ask about things you don't understand.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pgdeaner*
> 
> Makes sense. If the fans need more than the remaining 2 channels would you end up slaving a 6LT or something like that?
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Jubijub*
> 
> Ask here, this is where I learned too.
> So :
> - to drive fans / pumps you have 4 possible channels, each of which supporting max 30W (2.5A * 12V)
> - most likely, this means each pump will take its own channel
> - with the 2 channel remaining, you can use an AquaComputer accessory called Splitty9, that is essentially a 1:9 PWM hub. So with 2 you should be able to drive your GTs (just check amperage on those)
> - AQ6 ships with air temp sensors, but if you want to drive through Delta T° air/water, you'd need to add a water temp sensor
Click to expand...

are your pump pwm, or voltage, and are they pulling power from AQ
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Barefooter*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *pgdeaner*
> 
> So my interest in the Aquaero has been piqued. Is there a good Aquaero for dummies thread? I'll have about 12 GT fans and 2 DDC pumps in my new build that I want to run off a controller and I understand that running too many devices on the Aquaero is "no RMA" kinda bad.
> 
> Trying to figure out what I would need to get started. Any help, direction to reading, etc. would be appreciated.
> 
> Thanks!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As Jubijub stated you can always ask questions here.
> 
> Here's two links to give you something to read up on. They are both fairly dated and cover the Aquaero 5, but most of the info still applies. The Aquaero 6 has four PWM channels instead of just one like the Aquaero 5.
> 
> Nam's Aquaero Set-up Guide
> 
> Martin's Aquaero Guide
> 
> There's definitely a learning curve to get started, but well worth it!
Click to expand...

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *apw63*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *pgdeaner*
> 
> So my interest in the Aquaero has been piqued. Is there a good Aquaero for dummies thread? I'll have about 12 GT fans and 2 DDC pumps in my new build that I want to run off a controller and I understand that running too many devices on the Aquaero is "no RMA" kinda bad.
> 
> Trying to figure out what I would need to get started. Any help, direction to reading, etc. would be appreciated.
> 
> Thanks!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is old but still relevant. My Aquaero 5 Review & Guide & BASIC HOW TO SET UP GUIDE. This is what I used to get started with my Aquaero 6. This should give your a really good base of knowledge. After that ask about things you don't understand.
Click to expand...

names guide ( the above ) are amazing and mostly relevant, things to note, the aq6 DOES NOT need heatsink or have temp issues, all 4 channels are pwm !

side note, i miss nam, he was good people !~


----------



## apw63

Miss him to, was a great resource to the community.


----------



## chibi

Hey guys, I have an Aquaero 6 LT, but may want to mount the controller to a 5.25" bay. Is there an option to buy the LCD Panel separately?


----------



## Barefooter

*Flashing an Aquaero LT into a Slave unit using another computer*

I went ahead and updated the firmware and reflashed my Aquaero LT into a slave unit using another computer, and thought I'd post the steps I took in case others search here looking for the information. I reflashed the firmware on an Aquaero XT, and an Aquaero LT and then setup the Aquaero LT into a slave unit to work off of the main Aquaero XT.

The reason I'm doing this is because I'm finishing up all the wiring on a new build, and it will be easier to take out the Aquaeros now to flash them, rather than wait until later when I would have to disconnect all the wires to the Aquaero LT. There is not supposed to by anything connected to the Aquaero LT when flashing it into a slave unit except for the five pin USB cable.

This way I can flash it and connect all of my wiring even without the PC up and running yet.

Here's the steps:
I have already updated my main computer with Windows 10 Fall Creators Update which by the way went very smooth. When I opened Aquasuite, it shows my Aquaero has been up and running for 859 days in this rig!

The first step is to turn the computer off and either unplug the PSU from the wall or turn the switch off on the back of the PSU, otherwise the USB ports could still have power on. *This is important!*

I reflashed the firmware on my Aquaero XT first by plugging a five pin USB cable from the Aquaero XT into the motherboard with nothing else connected to the Aquaero. Make sure to plug it in correctly! The pin #1 has an arrow on the connector body and has a red wire to it. You can plug this in backwards. *Make sure it's plugged in the correct way on both ends!
*
Start the computer, Windows 10 recognized the Aquaero and added it, and the "input devices" window popped open and showed the new device.

Then open the Aquasuite software, the device showed up and a warning came up that showed the firmware is out dated and will not function with this version of Aquasuite. It had firmware version 2003 on it, I've had this since around January. Press the reflash button and it took about one minute to update to firmware version 2009.

Then turn off the computer, disconnect from the wall, removed the Aquaero XT and plugged in the Aquaero LT. Again nothing else plugged into the Aquaero LT.

After restarting the computer the Aquasuite did not start properly, I was not able to see the Aquaero LT and I got a "expansion device not recognized" warning. I'm not sure what happened here, but after a shut down and restart it worked perfectly the second time.

I first updated the firmware from 2003 version to the newest 2009 version. Now to flash the Aquaero LT into a slave it's in the same location as the firmware update is, a big red warning box came up describing the operation as a slave and warning not to have the Aquabus cable connected. Press the "Reprogram Device" button and in about a minute it is flashed into a slave unit.

Another warning states the slave unit will not be recognized by USB any longer and will only work over the Aquabus connected to the main Aquaero XT. Also keep in mind that the only ports that will work on the slave unit are the four fan channels and the temp sensor inputs. All other outputs are now disabled.

If you ever need to change the slave unit back into a normal Aquaero LT, you can do a factory reset, I think you have to jump four temp sensors and power it up to do that.

Now I can hook up everything I need to both Aquaeros and once I get to the point of installing the Aquasuite software on the new build I should be good to go


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chibi*
> 
> Hey guys, I have an Aquaero 6 LT, but may want to mount the controller to a 5.25" bay. Is there an option to buy the LCD Panel separately?


( first link that google brought up- not trying to push perf pcs )

http://www.performance-pcs.com/aquacomputer-aquaero-5-lt-drive-bay-installation-kit.html

yes you can but directly from shoggy / AC
iirc mine cost me ~ 40, but it is just the screen ! iirc not the faceplate ect.....


----------



## chibi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> ( first link that google brought up- not trying to push perf pcs )
> 
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/aquacomputer-aquaero-5-lt-drive-bay-installation-kit.html
> 
> yes you can but directly from shoggy / AC
> iirc mine cost me ~ 40, but it is just the screen ! iirc not the faceplate ect.....


Perfect, thank you Mega Man!


----------



## ruffhi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chibi*
> 
> Hey guys, I have an Aquaero 6 LT, but may want to mount the controller to a 5.25" bay. Is there an option to buy the LCD Panel separately?


Or you could find someone who went the other way (full Aq 6 --> LT) and has that hardware spare. Hint hint ... cough.


----------



## bern43

Sorry if this is the wrong spot for this. Does anyone know if the Aquacomputer block for the Titan X/1080ti will fit an EVGA 1080ti SC? I read something about a DVI connection that gets on the way of some blocks.


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bern43*
> 
> Sorry if this is the wrong spot for this. Does anyone know if the Aquacomputer block for the Titan X/1080ti will fit an EVGA 1080ti SC? I read something about a DVI connection that gets on the way of some blocks.


It should work without any issues. I would contact AquaComputer they will be able to tell you for sure.

The DVI will not be an issue since the block does not come into contact with that input.


----------



## docsys

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chibi*
> 
> Hey guys, I have an Aquaero 6 LT, but may want to mount the controller to a 5.25" bay. Is there an option to buy the LCD Panel separately?


I asked Shoggy about that the official way (support at AC) and the answer was a clear NO.


----------



## Revan654

Quick Question: When you plug a temperature probe into one of the Aquacomputer mps devices & is connected to AQ6. How does the temperature come across. Would it be listed as temperature 9 or 10?


----------



## apw63

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> Quick Question: When you plug a temperature probe into one of the Aquacomputer mps devices & is connected to AQ6. How does the temperature come across. Would it be listed as temperature 9 or 10?


I have one setup that way. I'm pretty sure you need the aquabus connection to use it in aquasuite. Ill look when I get home but I believe its listed as mps external temp probe.


----------



## crappy

Hi all

Just wanted to check a couple of things before splashing out the the 6LT.

1) It'll be used in a rig with an Asus Z270I which only has an internal USB3.0 header. Will it work in conjucntion with a USB 3.0 to USB 2.0 Adapter Cable like this one
2) Will it take 2 Laing DDC 1T-Plus Ultra (18W) pumps on one channel? The manual say 30W max per channel but I saw on the from page of the thread that 4 MCP35X pumps tested ok on 1 channel and they're also rated at 18W. Other 3 channels will have 2 EK-Vardar EVO 120ER fans each

Cheers


----------



## GTXJackBauer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *crappy*
> 
> Hi all
> 
> Just wanted to check a couple of things before splashing out the the 6LT.
> 
> 1) It'll be used in a rig with an Asus Z270I which only has an internal USB3.0 header. Will it work in conjucntion with a USB 3.0 to USB 2.0 Adapter Cable like this one
> 2) Will it take 2 Laing DDC 1T-Plus Ultra (18W) pumps on one channel? The manual say 30W max per channel but I saw on the from page of the thread that 4 MCP35X pumps tested ok on 1 channel and they're also rated at 18W. Other 3 channels will have 2 EK-Vardar EVO 120ER fans each
> 
> Cheers


1. Sure you could use that adapter no problem and I would even suggest getting a HUBBY7 so if you're ever in need of additional USB 2.0 connections, you wouldn't have to worry about it.

2. It depends if the pump is PWM or not. The reason why the MCP35X's work the way they do is because they are PWM pumps and are only connected to the AQ for PWM signal (Green/Blue wires) instead for power since they have their own separate lines for power via molex (Yellow/Black) straight to the PSU.

If the pump you're talking about the same wiring like this image of a PWM DDC pump, yes you can put two pumps together on a single AQ channel for PWM signal ONLY, while you fetch power via molex from the PSU. Here is the cable I use to bunch up two MCP35X PWM pumps in serial to one AQ channel.



Remember, stacking voltage controlled pumps passed the limits of said channel(s), could be catastrophic.


----------



## crappy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GTXJackBauer*
> 
> 1. Sure you could use that adapter no problem and I would even suggest getting a HUBBY7 so if you're ever in need of additional USB 2.0 connections, you wouldn't have to worry about it.
> 
> 2. It depends if the pump is PWM or not. The reason why the MCP35X's work the way they do is because they are PWM pumps and are only connected to the AQ for PWM signal (Green/Blue wires) instead for power since they have their own separate lines for power via molex (Yellow/Black) straight to the PSU.
> 
> If the pump you're talking about the same wiring like this image of a PWM DDC pump, yes you can put two pumps together on a single AQ channel for PWM signal ONLY, while you fetch power via molex from the PSU. Here is the cable I use to bunch up two MCP35X PWM pumps in serial to one AQ channel.
> 
> 
> 
> Remember, stacking voltage controlled pumps passed the limits of said channel(s), could be catastrophic.


Ah so it's only for the PWM control. The pumps I have are only 3pin voltage controlled ones. Would have to have the pumps on their own channels and split the fans differently. Thanks for your help.


----------



## weasle1uk

I currently have a 5LT. Hooked up to 16 fans. Not 100% happy with way it handles heat/fan throttling. Looking to get a 6 Pro and move the screen using a diy cable.

Anyone know the max distance I can go from the 6 pro to the screen?

Going to add 2 D5 pwm pumps noticed IT Diva mention a interface board she was making. Are these available anywhere?

Cheers.


----------



## Mega Man

@crappy You can either purchase a power adj or a lt to control it, or only have 2 fan channels.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *weasle1uk*
> 
> I currently have a 5LT. Hooked up to 16 fans. Not 100% happy with way it handles heat/fan throttling. Looking to get a 6 Pro and move the screen using a diy cable.
> 
> Anyone know the max distance I can go from the 6 pro to the screen?
> 
> Going to add 2 D5 pwm pumps noticed IT Diva mention a interface board she was making. Are these available anywhere?
> 
> Cheers.


Sorry your not happy...

As for distance 0cm so Shoogy says

Search this thread for diva mod. Some are now coming with it.


----------



## weasle1uk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> @crappy You can either purchase a power adj or a lt to control it, or only have 2 fan channels.
> Sorry your not happy...
> 
> As for distance 0cm so Shoogy says
> 
> Search this thread for diva mod. Some are now coming with it.


No need to apologise it's a great bit of kit and got it cheap as B grade so getting the 6 Pro isn't all that bad.

Currently setup as 4 banks of 4 fans so I will use the 5LT in slave for the pumps.

Might have to see through trial and error if I can move the screen.

Will hit the search option when I get home to my rig to see about diva mod. Originally read the old thread at 66 pages long. Not sure I could manage that with this one lol.

Cheers


----------



## Mega Man

i am at home now . here you go



Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *chimaychanga*
> 
> Subbed § Can I join please
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A6 XT
> 
> Btw Darlene.. any solution yet to controlling the PWM D5 on A6 ? doh I didnt read your topic
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yes, . . . .
> 
> There's a really good way with an add-on PCB, but there's also a quick and easy way that yields acceptable results without having to run wires and plug into a 5V molex pin somewhere.
> 
> Here's copied from the "old" A6 thread with some additional information:
> 
> For the capable DIY'er . . .
> 
> While not as optimal a solution as the active component based solutions, this is a workable solution to the issue of having a PWM D5.
> 
> 
> 
> I've tried it on a single and a dual D5 setup and it works satisfactorily with pullups optimized for each case, and it's dead nuts simple, though not exactly elegant.
> 
> At issue is that the D5 needs a fairly "strong" pullup, (lower resistance) . . . while the A6 works best with weaker pullups, (higher resistance).
> 
> This setup uses the 12V available from the first 2 of the 4 PWM fan pins on each channel of the A6.
> 
> The Zener diode and larger resistor form a 5V regulated source that the smaller resistor connects the PWM line to.
> 
> The diode is a 5.1V Zener diode, and the larger resistor, the 1/2 W one, is a 560 Ohm, but 470, 680, 820, or 1K will work as well. 1K may be the easiest to find.
> 
> Be sure you have the Zener diode polarity connected as in the pic.
> 
> The smaller resistor, 1/4 W, is a 2.2K which I'd suggest for a dual D5 setup, but for a single D5, a 3.3K would be fine.
> 
> The smaller size, 1/6W or 1/8W are electrically OK, but the smaller physical size makes lead breakage more of an issue, so stay with 1/4W.
> 
> Everything shown is available from RadioShack.
> 
> Hope that helps,
> 
> Darlene
Click to expand...

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *chimaychanga*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> The green and blue wires are the PWM and tach wire for the D5 connector.
> 
> That mod goes right on the D5's 4 pin connector that plugs onto the A6.
> 
> The easiest way to do it might actually be to make up a short extension cable with the mod on the extension cable's plug.
> 
> Google Zener Diode, and you'll see how they work so they can create a 5V source from the 12V that's present on the power pins of the A6 fan connectors.
> 
> Darlene
> 
> 
> 
> But why do you have 2 of each wire ?? and did you solder the diode and resistors on to the fan terminals?
> 
> EDIT:
> I see now.. you have 2 D5 pump cables underneath your sleeving
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> right ?
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Yes, that cable was made as a Y cable for a dual D5 setup, but could seem confusing with the extra wires.
> 
> The diode and large resistor are each soldered to a terminal.
> 
> Here's the easiest way to implement the mod, . . . . as a short, 2 wire extension for the PWM and tach signals
> :
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Darlene
> 
> Update:
> 
> Here's the little modded extension cable installed, note that the pullup resistor is a 3.3K, basically a workable compromise for either single or dual D5's, but really better suited to a single:
> 
> 
> 
> Here's the scope with only 1 of the D5's PWM line connected, notice that the pulse voltage is right about 3.4V max, and very near 0V min.
> 
> Ideally, the max should be right at 5V, but the D5's electronics load the circuit down some.
> 
> 
> 
> Now here's the scope with both D5's PWM line connected, notice it's now loaded down to about 2.5V.
> 
> The lower max pulse voltage can be accounted for with slightly higher percentage settings in Aquasuite.
> 
> 
> 
> Note also that max voltage for both single and dual setups does go up a little as the pulse width is increased.
> 
> What's really important in both cases, is that the pulse's "off time" voltage stays very close to 0V.
> 
> If the pullup resistor is lowered to 1k or so, the max voltage comes up very close to 5V, but the "off time" voltage climbs up closer to .8V or so, and then the pump doesn't see it as off time any more , and runs full speed with no regards to the pulse width.
> 
> That's why if you have a dual D5, use a 2.2K when you make your cable, and a 3.3K if you have a single D5.
> 
> Darlene
Click to expand...


----------



## weasle1uk

Nice one cheers Mega Man.


----------



## Lady Fitzgerald

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pgdeaner*
> 
> So my interest in the Aquaero has been piqued. Is there a good Aquaero for dummies thread? I'll have about 12 GT fans and 2 DDC pumps in my new build that I want to run off a controller and I understand that running too many devices on the Aquaero is "no RMA" kinda bad.
> 
> Trying to figure out what I would need to get started. Any help, direction to reading, etc. would be appreciated.
> 
> Thanks!


Same here. I read most of this thread (whew!) and the Aquaero website (including manuals) and still don't have a clue exactly what these do, where they get their input to determine what speed to run fans, how to hook them up, etc. what options are available, what options are needed, etc. a really basic primer for dummies would be nice.


----------



## apw63

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lady Fitzgerald*
> 
> Same here. I read most of this thread (whew!) and the Aquaero website (including manuals) and still don't have a clue exactly what these do, where they get their input to determine what speed to run fans, how to hook them up, etc. what options are available, what options are needed, etc. a really basic primer for dummies would be nice.


On the very first page of thread under Aquasuite Guides and Tutorials

http://www.serifwebresources.com/phpBB2mt/index.php?forumid=872280 (Nams Forum with his reviews and guides)

This gentleman has passed away, but his Aquaero 5 guides are still relevant. You should be able to get all of the info you need from his website.

Ill make it easier

My Aquaero 5 Review & Guide & BASIC HOW TO SET UP GUIDE


----------



## Jubijub

the problem with the test above is that most of the pictures are not available, which makes it less understandable.

but as I said above, ask your questions here


----------



## Lady Fitzgerald

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *apw63*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Lady Fitzgerald*
> 
> Same here. I read most of this thread (whew!) and the Aquaero website (including manuals) and still don't have a clue exactly what these do, where they get their input to determine what speed to run fans, how to hook them up, etc. what options are available, what options are needed, etc. a really basic primer for dummies would be nice.
> 
> 
> 
> On the very first page of thread under Aquasuite Guides and Tutorials
> 
> http://www.serifwebresources.com/phpBB2mt/index.php?forumid=872280 (Nams Forum with his reviews and guides)
> 
> This gentleman has passed away, but his Aquaero 5 guides are still relevant. You should be able to get all of the info you need from his website.
> 
> Ill make it easier
> 
> My Aquaero 5 Review & Guide & BASIC HOW TO SET UP GUIDE
Click to expand...

First, the site is for the Aquaero 5. Second, it's pretty much useless because most of the photos were hosted on Photobucket and Photobucket (I have anither spelling for them now) no longer allows website photo hosting, which means the photos will not show. I can't make sense of that site.


----------



## Lady Fitzgerald

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jubijub*
> 
> the problem with the test above is that most of the pictures are not available, which makes it less understandable.
> 
> but as I said above, ask your questions here


Have you ever been so confused about something you don't even know what questions to ask?


----------



## Kimir

I had no such issue when setup my 6XT, knew what I wanted to do, read the manual, plugged things and then messed in the software.
Pretty straight forward, if you can build your own pc, you can do that too.


----------



## apw63

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lady Fitzgerald*
> 
> First, the site is for the Aquaero 5. Second, it's pretty much useless because most of the photos were hosted on Photobucket and Photobucket (I have anither spelling for them now) no longer allows website photo hosting, which means the photos will not show. I can't make sense of that site.


The 5 and 6 program the same. There is still enough information there to get the feel for the programing. You don't really need the photos. They are only useless if you want them to be. I will agree that the aquaero is intimidating at first. Once you get your hands on it and play around with it becomes very intuitive very quickly.


----------



## Jubijub

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lady Fitzgerald*
> 
> Have you ever been so confused about something you don't even know what questions to ask?


Well, you don't buy an AQ6 one day for the fun of it. You usually do it because you want to regulate things in a PC, which can range from a couple of fans to a full multi-loop / multi-component setup.

I would thus say a good way to start is to explain what you are trying to achieve.

I would go as follows :
- what is it that you are trying to regulate (fans, pumps, other components like lights, etc...)
- regulate against what ? (what would be your sources for the temperature ?)
- what do you already own ?


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lady Fitzgerald*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *pgdeaner*
> 
> So my interest in the Aquaero has been piqued. Is there a good Aquaero for dummies thread? I'll have about 12 GT fans and 2 DDC pumps in my new build that I want to run off a controller and I understand that running too many devices on the Aquaero is "no RMA" kinda bad.
> 
> Trying to figure out what I would need to get started. Any help, direction to reading, etc. would be appreciated.
> 
> Thanks!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Same here. I read most of this thread (whew!) and the Aquaero website (including manuals) and still don't have a clue exactly what these do, where they get their input to determine what speed to run fans, how to hook them up, etc. what options are available, what options are needed, etc. a really basic primer for dummies would be nice.
Click to expand...

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *apw63*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Lady Fitzgerald*
> 
> Same here. I read most of this thread (whew!) and the Aquaero website (including manuals) and still don't have a clue exactly what these do, where they get their input to determine what speed to run fans, how to hook them up, etc. what options are available, what options are needed, etc. a really basic primer for dummies would be nice.
> 
> 
> 
> On the very first page of thread under Aquasuite Guides and Tutorials
> 
> http://www.serifwebresources.com/phpBB2mt/index.php?forumid=872280 (Nams Forum with his reviews and guides)
> 
> This gentleman has passed away, but his Aquaero 5 guides are still relevant. You should be able to get all of the info you need from his website.
> 
> Ill make it easier
> 
> My Aquaero 5 Review & Guide & BASIC HOW TO SET UP GUIDE
Click to expand...

To add to this, the only thing thay has changed is 4 pwm fan outputs on the 6 and the aq6 also does not need the heatsink.

The inputs depend on you, could be software ( hwinfo, aida64, ect ) one of the 8 temp sensors, a virtual sensor, ect.

I am sorry but if you have read the manual and dont see the info required on your post lady fitz, i would reccomend rereading it, but you are always welcome to ask here. We can help you, sucks that nams guide was gutted it is for that reason i hate photobucket.

His old forum was locally stored i think, but they went belly up


----------



## AngryGoldfish

I'm having issues with fan speeds in my new build and I was considering investing in an Aquaero 5 or 6 LT. I have a couple of questions if anyone can help out. Sorry for the long post.

Possibly because of the way Ryzen works, my CPU temperatures at both idle and when gaming ramp up and down quite a bit. Idle temperatures usually hover around 35-42°C, but there are these occasional one-second spikes that reach 56°C. These short spikes cause the fans to jump up and down. Even with a delay set in the BIOS, the fans will still wind up and slow down, and it's annoying

To rectify this I increased the temperature threshold to 56°C, which is the max my system sees during light use. However the issue now is when gaming the fans aren't spinning up enough because the temperatures during gaming are only slightly higher for the CPU than those 'peaks'. But if I increase the PWM curve, we still get those split-second spikes during gaming that increase the fans to 80% or more and then ramp down again. I never had this issue before and I've always had Intel so maybe Ryzen is to blame. Lovely architecture but the temperature spikes are a nuisance.

Essentially, what I'm looking for is a fan controller that allows my fans to be spinning at 500-600 RPM at idle, 800-900 RPM under gaming load (registered via the GPU) and 1200 RPM under stress testing load (registered via whatever component is the hottest). It has been remarkably hard to do this all at once, but this review snippet here has me interested in the Aquaero LT range:
Quote:


> Basically fan speed is now controlled by whichever of my CPU, GPU1 or GPU2 is highest (created a virtual temp sensor that is an amalgamation of those three system sensors and set highest one as what fan control works on).


When i'm gaming, if Aquaero could see the GPU as the hottest source, I could set my system fans to ramp up to 800-900 RPM. But if the CPU becomes the hotter source, such as when I'm stress testing, benchmarking, or playing a CPU-intensive game-the 'hottest' doesn't necessarily have to be the hottest but what I set as a threshold -Aquaero could switch to the CPU and use that as its source. This means that depending on which part of my computer is under stress, the fans will adjust. Can the Aquaero LT do this?

Also, I'm using 4-pin PWM fans. Does that mean I have to invest the extra in the 6 LT over the 5 LT which only has one 4-pin fan header? I would like my rear exhaust, CPU fan, bottom two intakes and front two intakes all to be separate. So that would be four channels, all PWM. I assume the 6 LT will be necessary for that purpose?

Finally, is the 6 LT overkill for my use case?


----------



## Barefooter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AngryGoldfish*
> 
> I'm having issues with fan speeds in my new build and I was considering investing in an Aquaero 5 or 6 LT. I have a couple of questions if anyone can help out. Sorry for the long post.
> 
> Possibly because of the way Ryzen works, my CPU temperatures at both idle and when gaming ramp up and down quite a bit. Idle temperatures usually hover around 35-42°C, but there are these occasional one-second spikes that reach 56°C. These short spikes cause the fans to jump up and down. Even with a delay set in the BIOS, the fans will still wind up and slow down, and it's annoying
> 
> To rectify this I increased the temperature threshold to 56°C, which is the max my system sees during light use. However the issue now is when gaming the fans aren't spinning up enough because the temperatures during gaming are only slightly higher for the CPU than those 'peaks'. But if I increase the PWM curve, we still get those split-second spikes during gaming that increase the fans to 80% or more and then ramp down again. I never had this issue before and I've always had Intel so maybe Ryzen is to blame. Lovely architecture but the temperature spikes are a nuisance.
> 
> Essentially, what I'm looking for is a fan controller that allows my fans to be spinning at 500-600 RPM at idle, 800-900 RPM under gaming load (registered via the GPU) and 1200 RPM under stress testing load (registered via whatever component is the hottest). It has been remarkably hard to do this all at once, but this review snippet here has me interested in the Aquaero LT range:
> 
> When i'm gaming, if Aquaero could see the GPU as the hottest source, I could set my system fans to ramp up to 800-900 RPM. But if the CPU becomes the hotter source, such as when I'm stress testing, benchmarking, or playing a CPU-intensive game-the 'hottest' doesn't necessarily have to be the hottest but what I set as a threshold -Aquaero could switch to the CPU and use that as its source. This means that depending on which part of my computer is under stress, the fans will adjust. Can the Aquaero LT do this?
> 
> Also, I'm using 4-pin PWM fans. Does that mean I have to invest the extra in the 6 LT over the 5 LT which only has one 4-pin fan header? I would like my rear exhaust, CPU fan, bottom two intakes and front two intakes all to be separate. So that would be four channels, all PWM. I assume the 6 LT will be necessary for that purpose?
> 
> Finally, is the 6 LT overkill for my use case?


The Aquaero 6 LT is not over kill at all, and would be the one to get to run four channels of PWM fans.

To keep the fans from ramping up and down you can add a coolant temperature sensor in your loop and then create a curve based on the delta between ambient temperature and your coolant temperature.

It won't matter if your GPU or your CPU is heating up the coolant. As the system gets more load the fans will gradually increase, and gradually decrease as the load goes down. Much better than fans going up and down all the time


----------



## chibi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ruffhi*
> 
> Or you could find someone who went the other way (full Aq 6 --> LT) and has that hardware spare. Hint hint ... cough.


Whoo hoo, LT -> 6 Pro


----------



## war4peace

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jubijub*
> 
> Well, you don't buy an AQ6 one day for the fun of it. You usually do it because you want to regulate things in a PC, which can range from a couple of fans to a full multi-loop / multi-component setup.
> 
> I would thus say a good way to start is to explain what you are trying to achieve.
> 
> I would go as follows :
> - what is it that you are trying to regulate (fans, pumps, other components like lights, etc...)
> - regulate against what ? (what would be your sources for the temperature ?)
> - what do you already own ?


OK, I'll start.
I've been investigating the "User Defined" item creation and configuration in Aquasuite 2017-2 "Overview Page" section. I realize it's an XAML object but that's where everything halts to a grind.
The amount of information available online on that is zero.

Also, I'd like to change title colors. For example, my gauges have transparent background and green font, but the title line of the gauge still appears white on gradient grey background, I want to change it to bold, green, on black background as well. I have exported a gauge as a .page file (see below), but without documentation or an example telling me which property to create and configure I'm stuck.

Code:



Code:


<?xml version="1.0" encoding="utf-8"?>
<SettingsGroup xmlns:xsd="http://www.w3.org/2001/XMLSchema" xmlns:xsi="http://www.w3.org/2001/XMLSchema-instance">
  <Name>Desktop Widget</Name>
  <GridSize>10</GridSize>
  <Items>
    <SettingsBase xsi:type="SettingsDataItem">
      <X>1930</X>
      <Y>430</Y>
      <Height>150</Height>
      <Width>150</Width>
      <ZOrder>13</ZOrder>
      <Opacity>1</Opacity>
      <SnapToGrid>true</SnapToGrid>
      <GridSize>10</GridSize>
      <connection>aquaero5:1575195880:data\fan\1\speed</connection>
      <itemType>SensorData</itemType>

        <size>14</size>
        <w>Normal</w>
        <st>Normal</st>
        <f>Segoe UI</f>
        #ff5ef957</col>

      <TitleSource>datasource</TitleSource>
      Noctua NF-F12
      <TitleShow>true</TitleShow>
      <ItemStyle>GAUGE</ItemStyle>
      <backgroundOpacity>0</backgroundOpacity>
      <logTimespan>15</logTimespan>
      <numberPrecision>0</numberPrecision>
      <showStatistic>false</showStatistic>
      <statisticPosition>right</statisticPosition>
      <fontStatistic>
        <size>14</size>
        <w>Normal</w>
        <st>Normal</st>
        <f>Segoe UI</f>
        #ff000000</col>
      </fontStatistic>
      <barHeight>25</barHeight>
      <showBarValue>true</showBarValue>
      <BarStartValue>0</BarStartValue>
      <BarEndValue>100</BarEndValue>
      <chartRangeSettings>autoMinimumRange</chartRangeSettings>
      <rangeMin>0</rangeMin>
      <rangeMax>100</rangeMax>
      <zoomMax>5</zoomMax>
      <chartGrowRangeValue>false</chartGrowRangeValue>
      <chartLineWidth>2</chartLineWidth>
      <chartLineColor>
        <c>#ff484848</c>
      </chartLineColor>
      <backgroundColor>
        <c>#fff5f5f5</c>
      </backgroundColor>
      <backgroundMode>Default</backgroundMode>
      <BarOrientation>Horizontal</BarOrientation>
      <BarBorderColor>
        <c>#ff000000</c>
      </BarBorderColor>
      <BarBorderWidth>2</BarBorderWidth>
      <gauge>
        <IndicatorHeight>8</IndicatorHeight>
        <ScaleColor>
          <c>#ff000000</c>
        </ScaleColor>
        <Minimum>0</Minimum>
        <Maximum>1600</Maximum>
        <NeedleColor>
          <c>#ffff0000</c>
        </NeedleColor>
        <ShowStatisticBar>true</ShowStatisticBar>
        <StatisticColor>
          <c>#ff4682b4</c>
        </StatisticColor>
        <StatisticHeight>5</StatisticHeight>
        <ScaleAngle>120</ScaleAngle>
        <MajorTickStep>400</MajorTickStep>
        <MinorTickStep>100</MinorTickStep>
      </gauge>
      <ChartAxisFont>
        <size>12</size>
        <w>Normal</w>
        <st>Normal</st>
        <f>Segoe UI</f>
        #ff000000</col>
      </ChartAxisFont>
      <ChartAxisColor>
        <c>#ff000000</c>
      </ChartAxisColor>
      <ChartShowXAxis>true</ChartShowXAxis>
      <ChartShowXAxisLabels>false</ChartShowXAxisLabels>
      <ChartShowYAxis>true</ChartShowYAxis>
      <ChartShowYAxisLabels>true</ChartShowYAxisLabels>
      <ChartValueGridColor>
        <c>#277e79b5</c>
      </ChartValueGridColor>
    </SettingsBase>
  </Items>
</SettingsGroup>


----------



## iamjanco

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *war4peace*
> 
> OK, I'll start.
> I've been investigating the "User Defined" item creation and configuration in Aquasuite 2017-2 "Overview Page" section. I realize it's an XAML object but that's where everything halts to a grind.
> The amount of information available online on that is zero.
> 
> Also, I'd like to change title colors. For example, my gauges have transparent background and green font, but the title line of the gauge still appears white on gradient grey background, I want to change it to bold, green, on black background as well. I have exported a gauge as a .page file (see below), but without documentation or an example telling me which property to create and configure I'm stuck.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Code:
> 
> 
> 
> Code:
> 
> 
> <?xml version="1.0" encoding="utf-8"?>
> <SettingsGroup xmlns:xsd="http://www.w3.org/2001/XMLSchema" xmlns:xsi="http://www.w3.org/2001/XMLSchema-instance">
> <Name>Desktop Widget</Name>
> <GridSize>10</GridSize>
> <Items>
> <SettingsBase xsi:type="SettingsDataItem">
> <X>1930</X>
> <Y>430</Y>
> <Height>150</Height>
> <Width>150</Width>
> <ZOrder>13</ZOrder>
> <Opacity>1</Opacity>
> <SnapToGrid>true</SnapToGrid>
> <GridSize>10</GridSize>
> <connection>aquaero5:1575195880:data\fan\1\speed</connection>
> <itemType>SensorData</itemType>
> 
> <size>14</size>
> <w>Normal</w>
> <st>Normal</st>
> <f>Segoe UI</f>
> #ff5ef957</col>
> 
> <TitleSource>datasource</TitleSource>
> Noctua NF-F12
> <TitleShow>true</TitleShow>
> <ItemStyle>GAUGE</ItemStyle>
> <backgroundOpacity>0</backgroundOpacity>
> <logTimespan>15</logTimespan>
> <numberPrecision>0</numberPrecision>
> <showStatistic>false</showStatistic>
> <statisticPosition>right</statisticPosition>
> <fontStatistic>
> <size>14</size>
> <w>Normal</w>
> <st>Normal</st>
> <f>Segoe UI</f>
> #ff000000</col>
> </fontStatistic>
> <barHeight>25</barHeight>
> <showBarValue>true</showBarValue>
> <BarStartValue>0</BarStartValue>
> <BarEndValue>100</BarEndValue>
> <chartRangeSettings>autoMinimumRange</chartRangeSettings>
> <rangeMin>0</rangeMin>
> <rangeMax>100</rangeMax>
> <zoomMax>5</zoomMax>
> <chartGrowRangeValue>false</chartGrowRangeValue>
> <chartLineWidth>2</chartLineWidth>
> <chartLineColor>
> <c>#ff484848</c>
> </chartLineColor>
> <backgroundColor>
> <c>#fff5f5f5</c>
> </backgroundColor>
> <backgroundMode>Default</backgroundMode>
> <BarOrientation>Horizontal</BarOrientation>
> <BarBorderColor>
> <c>#ff000000</c>
> </BarBorderColor>
> <BarBorderWidth>2</BarBorderWidth>
> <gauge>
> <IndicatorHeight>8</IndicatorHeight>
> <ScaleColor>
> <c>#ff000000</c>
> </ScaleColor>
> <Minimum>0</Minimum>
> <Maximum>1600</Maximum>
> <NeedleColor>
> <c>#ffff0000</c>
> </NeedleColor>
> <ShowStatisticBar>true</ShowStatisticBar>
> <StatisticColor>
> <c>#ff4682b4</c>
> </StatisticColor>
> <StatisticHeight>5</StatisticHeight>
> <ScaleAngle>120</ScaleAngle>
> <MajorTickStep>400</MajorTickStep>
> <MinorTickStep>100</MinorTickStep>
> </gauge>
> <ChartAxisFont>
> <size>12</size>
> <w>Normal</w>
> <st>Normal</st>
> <f>Segoe UI</f>
> #ff000000</col>
> </ChartAxisFont>
> <ChartAxisColor>
> <c>#ff000000</c>
> </ChartAxisColor>
> <ChartShowXAxis>true</ChartShowXAxis>
> <ChartShowXAxisLabels>false</ChartShowXAxisLabels>
> <ChartShowYAxis>true</ChartShowYAxis>
> <ChartShowYAxisLabels>true</ChartShowYAxisLabels>
> <ChartValueGridColor>
> <c>#277e79b5</c>
> </ChartValueGridColor>
> </SettingsBase>
> </Items>
> </SettingsGroup>


You might try playing with the *colors* until you have them the way you want. That said, I suspect wpf (*Windows Presentation Foundation*) was used to build the app (but correct me if I'm mistaken). Colorpicking tools for use with wpf can be found by way of this *link*.

Edited: you might also try querying AQ to see whether they might be able to provide you with a list of properties currently used in the app, even if they consider the app proprietary themselves. Doesn't hurt to ask.

Oh, and here's an additional resource about the *XAML Syntax In Detail*, which you might also find of interest.


----------



## AngryGoldfish

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Barefooter*
> 
> The Aquaero 6 LT is not over kill at all, and would be the one to get to run four channels of PWM fans.
> 
> To keep the fans from ramping up and down you can add a coolant temperature sensor in your loop and then create a curve based on the delta between ambient temperature and your coolant temperature.
> 
> It won't matter if your GPU or your CPU is heating up the coolant. As the system gets more load the fans will gradually increase, and gradually decrease as the load goes down. Much better than fans going up and down all the time


I forgot to say that my system is purely air cooled. I heard that setting the Aquaero to run off the coolant temperature was best, which makes sense, but I can't do that.


----------



## GTXJackBauer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AngryGoldfish*
> 
> I forgot to say that my system is purely air cooled. I heard that setting the Aquaero to run off the coolant temperature was best, which makes sense, but I can't do that.


Coolant or deltas from coolant and ambient is usually the best way to go for gradual changes as opposed to very erratic.

I personally use the average from two coolant sensors. No issues here whatsoever.


----------



## AngryGoldfish

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GTXJackBauer*
> 
> Coolant or deltas from coolant and ambient is usually the best way to go for gradual changes as opposed to very erratic.
> 
> I personally use the average from two coolant sensors. No issues here whatsoever.


I'm not watercooling. I said that in my comment. Look at my signature.


----------



## GTXJackBauer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AngryGoldfish*
> 
> I'm not watercooling. I said that in my comment. Look at my signature.


I was just adding to what you had already said.


----------



## AngryGoldfish

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GTXJackBauer*
> 
> I was just adding to what you had already said.


Oh, sorry, my mistake.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AngryGoldfish*
> 
> I'm having issues with fan speeds in my new build and I was considering investing in an Aquaero 5 or 6 LT. I have a couple of questions if anyone can help out. Sorry for the long post.
> 
> Possibly because of the way Ryzen works, my CPU temperatures at both idle and when gaming ramp up and down quite a bit. Idle temperatures usually hover around 35-42°C, but there are these occasional one-second spikes that reach 56°C. These short spikes cause the fans to jump up and down. Even with a delay set in the BIOS, the fans will still wind up and slow down, and it's annoying
> 
> To rectify this I increased the temperature threshold to 56°C, which is the max my system sees during light use. However the issue now is when gaming the fans aren't spinning up enough because the temperatures during gaming are only slightly higher for the CPU than those 'peaks'. But if I increase the PWM curve, we still get those split-second spikes during gaming that increase the fans to 80% or more and then ramp down again. I never had this issue before and I've always had Intel so maybe Ryzen is to blame. Lovely architecture but the temperature spikes are a nuisance.
> 
> Essentially, what I'm looking for is a fan controller that allows my fans to be spinning at 500-600 RPM at idle, 800-900 RPM under gaming load (registered via the GPU) and 1200 RPM under stress testing load (registered via whatever component is the hottest). It has been remarkably hard to do this all at once, but this review snippet here has me interested in the Aquaero LT range:
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Basically fan speed is now controlled by whichever of my CPU, GPU1 or GPU2 is highest (created a virtual temp sensor that is an amalgamation of those three system sensors and set highest one as what fan control works on).
> 
> 
> 
> When i'm gaming, if Aquaero could see the GPU as the hottest source, I could set my system fans to ramp up to 800-900 RPM. But if the CPU becomes the hotter source, such as when I'm stress testing, benchmarking, or playing a CPU-intensive game-the 'hottest' doesn't necessarily have to be the hottest but what I set as a threshold -Aquaero could switch to the CPU and use that as its source. This means that depending on which part of my computer is under stress, the fans will adjust. Can the Aquaero LT do this?
> 
> Also, I'm using 4-pin PWM fans. Does that mean I have to invest the extra in the 6 LT over the 5 LT which only has one 4-pin fan header? I would like my rear exhaust, CPU fan, bottom two intakes and front two intakes all to be separate. So that would be four channels, all PWM. I assume the 6 LT will be necessary for that purpose?
> 
> Finally, is the 6 LT overkill for my use case?
Click to expand...

At work atm.

Yes you can do what you want, but it will still have spikes, that's what i dont like about controlling by on die temps.

You can still do a delta just do intake vs exhaust Deltas one of for cpu and one for gpu (really only need 3 temp sensors which are included.

No it isnt overkill, i would recommend the 6...


----------



## AngryGoldfish

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> At work atm.
> 
> Yes you can do what you want, but it will still have spikes, that's what i dont like about controlling by on die temps.
> 
> You can still do a delta just do intake vs exhaust Deltas one of for cpu and one for gpu (really only need 3 temp sensors which are included.
> 
> No it isnt overkill, i would recommend the 6...


So the principle that applies to using temp censors in the coolant path applies to situating censors in the airflow path as well?

Where would you recommend you place the temp censors? My CPU tower heatsink has about 5mm of room between it and the rear fan; should I put one censor there just before the hot air is exhausted out? Or should I put it outside the case just behind the rear exhaust fan? And where you put a temp censor for the GPU? It's not a blower style design so where does the heat usually sit?


----------



## Mega Man

I would get it in as direct a path as possible. It is the same principle, you have a ambient you are cooling with and a discharge temp. The hard part will be positioning the sensor, be creative.

The hard part is what your delta should be, i have no idea.

You can easily control fan speed min and max.

As to sensor placementi would place out as close as i could with the sensor not touching the heatsink directly in the air stream


----------



## AngryGoldfish

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> I would get it in as direct a path as possible. It is the same principle, you have a ambient you are cooling with and a discharge temp. The hard part will be positioning the sensor, be creative.
> 
> The hard part is what your delta should be, i have no idea.
> 
> You can easily control fan speed min and max.
> 
> As to sensor placementi would place out as close as i could with the sensor not touching the heatsink directly in the air stream


The concern I have with this is if I can't get my temperature sensors in the right position or cannot find an accurate delta reading, I'll have spent €100 on a device that only really serves (in my case) as a way to adjust fan speeds based on the GPU rather than the CPU. This won't be a huge deal as during gameplay the GPU temperatures stay relatively stable (they obviously do fluctuate, but not nearly as much as the CPU) but it'll be a lot of money spent on something so apparently simple.

In case this were to happen, can the Aquaero 6 LT function as an accurate DC controller (as in variable and precise DC control that goes beyond just 5V, 7V, and 12V) with simple profiles that can be switched prior to booting a game? I could open Aquasuite if I were gaming and switch to a profile that spins the fans at my desired speeds. Then when I'm finished gaming I could switch back to a silent profile. If there were a Windows software tool that allowed DC profiles to be managed accurately, that would be awesome, but I haven't been able to find one.

I read this in the manual:
Quote:


> In "speed controlled" mode, an output value from a controller will be linearly
> converted to the range between configured minimum and maximum speed of
> the fan output. The aquaero will adjust the output power (voltage) autonomously
> within the configured range of minimum and maximum power to
> maintain this fan speed.


What does this mean compared to "PWM controlled" and "power controlled" modes? Does speed controlled mode allow for precise voltage control of the fans?


----------



## looniam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AngryGoldfish*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> At work atm.
> 
> Yes you can do what you want, but it will still have spikes, that's what i dont like about controlling by on die temps.
> 
> You can still do a delta just do intake vs exhaust Deltas one of for cpu and one for gpu (really only need 3 temp sensors which are included.
> 
> No it isnt overkill, i would recommend the 6...
> 
> 
> 
> So the principle that applies to using temp censors in the coolant path applies to situating censors in the airflow path as well?
> 
> Where would you recommend you place the temp censors? My CPU tower heatsink has about 5mm of room between it and the rear fan; should I put one censor there just before the hot air is exhausted out? Or should I put it outside the case just behind the rear exhaust fan? *And where you put a temp censor for the GPU?* It's not a blower style design so where does the heat usually sit?
Click to expand...

FYI, you can use aida64 or HWinfo to use as "software sensors." there's a few posts about that (along w/in OP)

ie use the gpu temp to control a intake fan on the bottom of case. you can bypass the bios/MB fan headers completely. think of it like speed fan but you just set and forget w/no software running at boot up.


----------



## AngryGoldfish

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *looniam*
> 
> FYI, you can use aida64 or HWinfo to use as "software sensors." there's a few posts about that (along w/in OP)
> 
> ie use the gpu temp to control a intake fan on the bottom of case. you can bypass the bios/MB fan headers completely. think of it like speed fan but you just set and forget w/no software running at boot up.


When you say you can bypass the bios/MB fan headers completely, the fans are still plugged into the motherboard (not an external hub or powered splitter), right? HWiNFO then bypasses the CPU as the sensor and use whatever I assign?


----------



## Lady Fitzgerald

I reread the first part of the manual again, as someone here suggested, and I still don't "get it" so here is the start of my questions.

My next machine is going to have an ASUS X99-E WS/USB 3.1 motherboard. I'm going to be running eight PWM intake fans and three PWM exhaust fans. The eight intakes can be either run off one powered fan splitter or, if the PWM signal going into the splitter isn't strong enough for eight fans, then I would use two powered fan splitters running four fans each. The exhaust fans will be two top fans running off one powered splitter and one rear exhaust fan right behind the CPU cooler.

Ideally, I would run all the chassis fans off the MOBO chassis fan headers via the powered splitters. However, there's the rub (apologies to Billy Wigglestick). ASUS is notorious for putting fake PWM fan headers on their some of the their MOBOs. They are equally notorious for inaccurate documentation. Some people claim the MOBO in question does have PWM control available for chassis fan headers, others claim it doesn't. Which do I believe? Not ASUS; the documentation in their manual is vague and not particularly trustworthy. The only way for me to know for sure will be to find out the first time I fire the machine up once I finish building it.

If the chassis headers are not PWM capable, then I will need some sort of an external fan controller. Since I will be needing three or four PWM channels to control all the chassis fans, it appears the Aquaero 6 is the wee beast I would need.

Question 1: Since I would not want any more extra cables as possible going to my MOBO since it is mounted to a removable tray, would the Aquaero 6 be able to determine what speed to run the fans at based on CPU, etc. temperatures based on data sent through the USB connection only (I'm aware that would mean leaving the USB permanently connected)?


----------



## looniam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AngryGoldfish*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *looniam*
> 
> FYI, you can use aida64 or HWinfo to use as "software sensors." there's a few posts about that (along w/in OP)
> 
> ie use the gpu temp to control a intake fan on the bottom of case. you can bypass the bios/MB fan headers completely. think of it like speed fan but you just set and forget w/no software running at boot up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When you say you can bypass the bios/MB fan headers completely, the fans are still plugged into the motherboard (not an external hub or powered splitter), right? HWiNFO then bypasses the CPU as the sensor and use whatever I assign?
Click to expand...

the fans are plugged into the aquaero. after you turned off the cpu fan speed warning in the bios.

sorry i lied inadvertently, you would need HWinfo running in the background. srly, plug in the usb 2.0 header, download the software and run it/set up while reading the manual.


----------



## AngryGoldfish

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *looniam*
> 
> the fans are plugged into the aquaero. after you turned off the cpu fan speed warning in the bios.
> 
> sorry i lied inadvertently, you would need HWinfo running in the background. srly, plug in the usb 2.0 header, download the software and run it/set up while reading the manual.


Oh, I understand now. I thought you were saying that you didn't need the Aquaero if you were using the GPU as the temperature source instead of the CPU. I thought this because I assumed Aquasuite would register GPU temperatures itself and would not require HWiNFO or AIDA64. But if it requires either of those programs to register the GPU temperature then I still need the Aquaero.

I'll have to make sure my motherboard allows me to turn off CPU fan speed warning. I can't find a way to increase the thermal threshold of the CPU when setting up PWM curves for my fans so it's not impossible I won't be able to turn off the warning.


----------



## Jubijub

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lady Fitzgerald*
> 
> Question 1: Since I would not want any more extra cables as possible going to my MOBO since it is mounted to a removable tray, would the Aquaero 6 be able to determine what speed to run the fans at based on CPU, etc. temperatures based on data sent through the USB connection only (I'm aware that would mean leaving the USB permanently connected)?


I speak under the control of the elders, but from what I understood, the AQ6 cannot read those temps "physically", ie with no soft involved.
However, if you use monitoring softwares like HWInfo and a few others, you can create a "software sensor" that will go and read the CPU temp and make it usable to control fan speed

Caveat :
- only works under windows
- requires the use of a software monitoring tool


----------



## Lady Fitzgerald

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jubijub*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Lady Fitzgerald*
> 
> Question 1: Since I would not want any more extra cables as possible going to my MOBO since it is mounted to a removable tray, would the Aquaero 6 be able to determine what speed to run the fans at based on CPU, etc. temperatures based on data sent through the USB connection only (I'm aware that would mean leaving the USB permanently connected)?
> 
> 
> 
> I speak under the control of the elders, but from what I understood, the AQ6 cannot read those temps "physically", ie with no soft involved.
> However, if you use monitoring softwares like HWInfo and a few others, you can create a "software sensor" that will go and read the CPU temp and make it usable to control fan speed
> 
> Caveat :
> - only works under windows
> - requires the use of a software monitoring tool
Click to expand...

If so, I'm up the creek without a canoe. I plan on being on Linux within a couple of years.


----------



## apw63

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jubijub*
> 
> I speak under the control of the elders, but from what I understood, the AQ6 cannot read those temps "physically", ie with no soft involved.
> However, if you use monitoring softwares like HWInfo and a few others, you can create a "software sensor" that will go and read the CPU temp and make it usable to control fan speed
> 
> Caveat :
> - only works under windows
> - requires the use of a software monitoring tool


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lady Fitzgerald*
> 
> If so, I'm up the creek without a canoe. I plan on being on Linux within a couple of years.


The latest versions of aquasuite has a built in hardware monitor. A lot of those temps can now be reported straight in to aquasuite. Those temps can be used to control fans\pumps whatever. You do not need a third party monitoring program.


----------



## Lady Fitzgerald

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *apw63*
> 
> ...The latest versions of aquasuite has a built in hardware monitor. A lot of those temps can now be reported straight in to aquasuite. Those temps can be used to control fans\pumps whatever. You do not need a third party monitoring program.


Do you know where in the manual I can find that information?


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lady Fitzgerald*
> 
> Do you know where in the manual I can find that information?


The manual last update was in 2016, Not sure if all it was added in. It should be around page 27 (may be a few pages +/-) if I remember correctly.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lady Fitzgerald*
> 
> If so, I'm up the creek without a canoe. I plan on being on Linux within a couple of years.


I would have been on Linux years ago if not for some of my programs requires Windows.

Thankfully more & more are adding support for Linux.


----------



## Barefooter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AngryGoldfish*
> 
> Oh, I understand now. I thought you were saying that you didn't need the Aquaero if you were using the GPU as the temperature source instead of the CPU. I thought this because I assumed Aquasuite would register GPU temperatures itself and would not require HWiNFO or AIDA64. But if it requires either of those programs to register the GPU temperature then I still need the Aquaero.
> 
> *I'll have to make sure my motherboard allows me to turn off CPU fan speed warning. I can't find a way to increase the thermal threshold of the CPU when setting up PWM curves for my fans so it's not impossible I won't be able to turn off the warning*.


Hey AngryGoldfish, sorry on my previous post I did not realize you were air cooling.

There is an RPM header on the Aquaero that you can plug into your motherboard CPU fan header. It will send a simulated RPM signal to your motherboard, just in case you can't disable it. It just sends a static RPM signal, it won't go up or down.


----------



## apw63

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lady Fitzgerald*
> 
> Do you know where in the manual I can find that information?


I don't see mention of it in the manual. This is from the AC English forum

New: aquasuite 2017 - Data without borders

About half way down
Quote:


> *Aqua Computer Hardware Monitor*
> With the aquasuite 2017 we have directly integrated a hardware monitor based on the Open Hardware Monitor already used with the aquasuite. This means that no additional software has to be installed. The aquasuite can thus directly access almost all sensors in the system.
> Of course, support for external software will continue.


----------



## iamjanco

Quote:


> Versatile bug fixes and improvements
> 
> For the aquaero 5/6 LT devices there is now also the option to use the PWM outputs when the device has been programmed as a slave device. In this configuration, a master aquaero is extended by 4 additional fan channels by a slave aquaero. So far there was only the possibility to use the aquaero without PWM support.


Hervorragend! Also, das bedeutet 8 Kanäle? @Shoggy

(Pardon my Deutsch, I hardly ever get to use it nowadays).


----------



## jura11

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lady Fitzgerald*
> 
> I reread the first part of the manual again, as someone here suggested, and I still don't "get it" so here is the start of my questions.
> 
> My next machine is going to have an ASUS X99-E WS/USB 3.1 motherboard. I'm going to be running eight PWM intake fans and three PWM exhaust fans. The eight intakes can be either run off one powered fan splitter or, if the PWM signal going into the splitter isn't strong enough for eight fans, then I would use two powered fan splitters running four fans each. The exhaust fans will be two top fans running off one powered splitter and one rear exhaust fan right behind the CPU cooler.
> 
> Ideally, I would run all the chassis fans off the MOBO chassis fan headers via the powered splitters. However, there's the rub (apologies to Billy Wigglestick). ASUS is notorious for putting fake PWM fan headers on their some of the their MOBOs. They are equally notorious for inaccurate documentation. Some people claim the MOBO in question does have PWM control available for chassis fan headers, others claim it doesn't. Which do I believe? Not ASUS; the documentation in their manual is vague and not particularly trustworthy. The only way for me to know for sure will be to find out the first time I fire the machine up once I finish building it.
> 
> If the chassis headers are not PWM capable, then I will need some sort of an external fan controller. Since I will be needing three or four PWM channels to control all the chassis fans, it appears the Aquaero 6 is the wee beast I would need.
> 
> Question 1: Since I would not want any more extra cables as possible going to my MOBO since it is mounted to a removable tray, would the Aquaero 6 be able to determine what speed to run the fans at based on CPU, etc. temperatures based on data sent through the USB connection only (I'm aware that would mean leaving the USB permanently connected)?


Hi there

I owned few X99 boards like Asus Rampage V Extreme or ASRock X99 Extreme6 and two Gigabyte boards

Asus PWM control has been very strange, have run from single fan header 6 fans Phanteks PH-F120MP powered through the power splitter and on every channel what I tried fans ramped up to max during the boot up(fans has run at max for 1-2 mins) which I hated on this

ASRock fan control is good too, no fan ramping to max during the boot up, just their SW is not the best there

Regarding the Linux and fan control, you will need at least setup everything in Windows and then save profile in Aquaero and you should be just OK, I'm running OSX Yosemite on my X99 and all fan control is controlled through the Aquaero,no issues there, I've set up fan curve based on water delta, in yours case with air cooling setup this will be dependent on few things but you should be able do that easy

Hope this helps

Thanks, Jura


----------



## Lady Fitzgerald

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Lady Fitzgerald*
> 
> Do you know where in the manual I can find that information?
> 
> 
> 
> The manual last update was in 2016, Not sure if all it was added in. It should be around page 27 (may be a few pages +/-) if I remember correctly.
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Lady Fitzgerald*
> 
> If so, I'm up the creek without a canoe. I plan on being on Linux within a couple of years.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> I would have been on Linux years ago if not for some of my programs requires Windows.
> 
> Thankfully more & more are adding support for Linux.
Click to expand...

Do you know where I can get an up to date manual? The one that I got from their website is dated 2014.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AngryGoldfish*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> I would get it in as direct a path as possible. It is the same principle, you have a ambient you are cooling with and a discharge temp. The hard part will be positioning the sensor, be creative.
> 
> The hard part is what your delta should be, i have no idea.
> 
> You can easily control fan speed min and max.
> 
> As to sensor placementi would place out as close as i could with the sensor not touching the heatsink directly in the air stream
> 
> 
> 
> The concern I have with this is if I can't get my temperature sensors in the right position or cannot find an accurate delta reading, I'll have spent €100 on a device that only really serves (in my case) as a way to adjust fan speeds based on the GPU rather than the CPU. This won't be a huge deal as during gameplay the GPU temperatures stay relatively stable (they obviously do fluctuate, but not nearly as much as the CPU) but it'll be a lot of money spent on something so apparently simple.
> 
> In case this were to happen, can the Aquaero 6 LT function as an accurate DC controller (as in variable and precise DC control that goes beyond just 5V, 7V, and 12V) with simple profiles that can be switched prior to booting a game? I could open Aquasuite if I were gaming and switch to a profile that spins the fans at my desired speeds. Then when I'm finished gaming I could switch back to a silent profile. If there were a Windows software tool that allowed DC profiles to be managed accurately, that would be awesome, but I haven't been able to find one.
> 
> I read this in the manual:
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> In "speed controlled" mode, an output value from a controller will be linearly
> converted to the range between configured minimum and maximum speed of
> the fan output. The aquaero will adjust the output power (voltage) autonomously
> within the configured range of minimum and maximum power to
> maintain this fan speed.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> What does this mean compared to "PWM controlled" and "power controlled" modes? Does speed controlled mode allow for precise voltage control of the fans?
Click to expand...

You can always make it work, and a delta is a great way to control fan speed. You can always go off of on die temps....
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lady Fitzgerald*
> 
> I reread the first part of the manual again, as someone here suggested, and I still don't "get it" so here is the start of my questions.
> 
> My next machine is going to have an ASUS X99-E WS/USB 3.1 motherboard. I'm going to be running eight PWM intake fans and three PWM exhaust fans. The eight intakes can be either run off one powered fan splitter or, if the PWM signal going into the splitter isn't strong enough for eight fans, then I would use two powered fan splitters running four fans each. The exhaust fans will be two top fans running off one powered splitter and one rear exhaust fan right behind the CPU cooler.
> 
> Ideally, I would run all the chassis fans off the MOBO chassis fan headers via the powered splitters. However, there's the rub (apologies to Billy Wigglestick). ASUS is notorious for putting fake PWM fan headers on their some of the their MOBOs. They are equally notorious for inaccurate documentation. Some people claim the MOBO in question does have PWM control available for chassis fan headers, others claim it doesn't. Which do I believe? Not ASUS; the documentation in their manual is vague and not particularly trustworthy. The only way for me to know for sure will be to find out the first time I fire the machine up once I finish building it.
> 
> If the chassis headers are not PWM capable, then I will need some sort of an external fan controller. Since I will be needing three or four PWM channels to control all the chassis fans, it appears the Aquaero 6 is the wee beast I would need.
> 
> Question 1: Since I would not want any more extra cables as possible going to my MOBO since it is mounted to a removable tray, would the Aquaero 6 be able to determine what speed to run the fans at based on CPU, etc. temperatures based on data sent through the USB connection only (I'm aware that would mean leaving the USB permanently connected)?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lady Fitzgerald*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Jubijub*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Lady Fitzgerald*
> 
> Question 1: Since I would not want any more extra cables as possible going to my MOBO since it is mounted to a removable tray, would the Aquaero 6 be able to determine what speed to run the fans at based on CPU, etc. temperatures based on data sent through the USB connection only (I'm aware that would mean leaving the USB permanently connected)?
> 
> 
> 
> I speak under the control of the elders, but from what I understood, the AQ6 cannot read those temps "physically", ie with no soft involved.
> However, if you use monitoring softwares like HWInfo and a few others, you can create a "software sensor" that will go and read the CPU temp and make it usable to control fan speed
> 
> Caveat :
> - only works under windows
> - requires the use of a software monitoring tool
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> If so, I'm up the creek without a canoe. I plan on being on Linux within a couple of years.
Click to expand...

no, you can go off of a delta, same as i said I've said


----------



## Lady Fitzgerald

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *apw63*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Lady Fitzgerald*
> 
> Do you know where in the manual I can find that information?
> 
> 
> 
> I don't see mention of it in the manual. This is from the AC English forum
> 
> New: aquasuite 2017 - Data without borders
> 
> About half way down
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> *Aqua Computer Hardware Monitor*
> With the aquasuite 2017 we have directly integrated a hardware monitor based on the Open Hardware Monitor already used with the aquasuite. This means that no additional software has to be installed. The aquasuite can thus directly access almost all sensors in the system.
> Of course, support for external software will continue.
> 
> Click to expand...
Click to expand...

So, I would have to have Aquasuite running for the hardware monitor to be available? Will Aquasuite run in Linux?

I found their website. Can you even get an English language version?


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lady Fitzgerald*
> 
> Do you know where I can get an up to date manual? The one that I got from their website is dated 2014.


Make sure your clicking on AQ 5 & 6 Manual in Support. That is the latest version.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lady Fitzgerald*
> 
> So, I would have to have Aquasuite running for the hardware monitor to be available? Will Aquasuite run in Linux?
> 
> I found their website. Can you even get an English language version?


No, AquaSuite does not run in Linux, there was a small project in the works years back, Not sure if it would work now or not. But that Project is dead from what I recall.

It defaults to your current language, There is only one link for the software which is German.


----------



## Jubijub

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lady Fitzgerald*
> 
> So, I would have to have Aquasuite running for the hardware monitor to be available? Will Aquasuite run in Linux?
> 
> I found their website. Can you even get an English language version?


I had the same concern, but I bypassed it since I have a water loop in the case, I put air temp sensors and water temp sensors so I can drive using Delta T°

@others : good to know about this built in hardware sensor, this is great stuff !


----------



## Mega Man

In reality having local control is better (local aquaero temp sensors )


----------



## Lady Fitzgerald

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> In reality having local control is better (local aquaero temp sensors )


How does one know how and where to locate sensors? I saw nothing in the manual about that.

Also, if setting up the Aqauero 6 using the onboard controls instead of the software, are the onscreen prompts in English?


----------



## AngryGoldfish

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Barefooter*
> 
> Hey AngryGoldfish, sorry on my previous post I did not realize you were air cooling.
> 
> There is an RPM header on the Aquaero that you can plug into your motherboard CPU fan header. It will send a simulated RPM signal to your motherboard, just in case you can't disable it. It just sends a static RPM signal, it won't go up or down.


That makes sense. You're basically tricking the motherboard into thinking there is a fan connected to the CPU fan header. If I were watercooling I think teh Aquaero would be a no-brainer, but it's a hard sell for me personally. I might be able to squeeze it in if I can't get my fans to run in the way I want. We'll see.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lady Fitzgerald*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> In reality having local control is better (local aquaero temp sensors )
> 
> 
> 
> How does one know how and where to locate sensors? I saw nothing in the manual about that.
> 
> Also, if setting up the Aqauero 6 using the onboard controls instead of the software, are the onscreen prompts in English?
Click to expand...

Location depends on you, for air? I would use a temperature delta, intake air temp would be temp a, temp b would be discharge of heatsink(s)

You can look up the options for virtual sensors, some are average, difference, absolute difference, highest iirc

They plug into the aquaero (you Have 8 temp sensor inputs on it, and it comes with 4 air temp sensors) but you can add more in various ways

Everything after install its in English, assuming you choose it are install (or your os )


----------



## Lady Fitzgerald

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Lady Fitzgerald*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> In reality having local control is better (local aquaero temp sensors )
> 
> 
> 
> How does one know how and where to locate sensors? I saw nothing in the manual about that.
> 
> Also, if setting up the Aqauero 6 using the onboard controls instead of the software, are the onscreen prompts in English?
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Location depends on you, for air? I would use a temperature delta, intake air temp would be temp a, temp b would be discharge of heatsink(s)
> 
> You can look up the options for virtual sensors, some are average, difference, absolute difference, highest iirc
> 
> They plug into the aquaero (you Have 8 temp sensor inputs on it, and it comes with 4 air temp sensors) but you can add more in various ways
> 
> Everything after install its in English, assuming you choose it are install (or your os )
Click to expand...

That doesn't answer what I asked. First, sorry, I forgot to mention I'm going to be air cooling (I never got a short from an air leak )







.

By location, I'm talking about where you attach the physical sensors and how you attach them. Which brings up another question. Are the sensors strictly for air temperature only or can they be attached somehow to pick up component temperature, such as the CPU, etc.?

To clarify my second question, I was referring to setting up and using the Aquaero without using the software.


----------



## GTXJackBauer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lady Fitzgerald*
> 
> That doesn't answer what I asked. First, sorry, I forgot to mention I'm going to be air cooling (I never got a short from an air leak )
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> 
> By location, I'm talking about where you attach the physical sensors and how you attach them. Which brings up another question. Are the sensors strictly for air temperature only or can they be attached somehow to pick up component temperature, such as the CPU, etc.?
> 
> To clarify my second question, I was referring to setting up and using the Aquaero without using the software.


I'm not sure how accurate it is to stick these air temp sensors on actual heatsinks or chips as I've seen others do in the past and don't know the limits to the materials of said air temp probes but I would see if you can stick two air temp probes on each exhaust area, meaning either on the intake or exhaust side of the exhaust fans (top/rear) while making sure the blades aren't being touched by said probes and add another pair of air temp probes on the fresh and cooler intake side of the case and just go based on that delta to control your case fans. Just make sure to run an average of said temp probes in their respected area.

You could skip all of that and just grab a Swiftech 8-way PWM hub and run all your fans on that via PSU power while connected to the main CPU PWM header on the MB and control it via BIOS. Find your sweet spot in audibles and temps, set and forget.


----------



## Fleacircus

Quick question: Is there a way to kill the little red running led on the Aquaero 6 LT? I don't want to resort to covering it with electrical tape but I will if that's the only option.


----------



## Lady Fitzgerald

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GTXJackBauer*
> 
> ...You could skip all of that and just grab a Swiftech 8-way PWM hub and run all your fans on that via PSU power while connected to the main CPU PWM header on the MB and control it via BIOS. Find your sweet spot in audibles and temps, set and forget.


That would be fine _if_ I was running only seven fans and the PWM signal was strong enough. However, I'm going to be running eight intakes, one rear exhaust, and two top exhaust, with each group running on their own profile.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lady Fitzgerald*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Lady Fitzgerald*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> In reality having local control is better (local aquaero temp sensors )
> 
> 
> 
> How does one know how and where to locate sensors? I saw nothing in the manual about that.
> 
> Also, if setting up the Aqauero 6 using the onboard controls instead of the software, are the onscreen prompts in English?
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Location depends on you, for air? I would use a temperature delta, intake air temp would be temp a, temp b would be discharge of heatsink(s)
> 
> You can look up the options for virtual sensors, some are average, difference, absolute difference, highest iirc
> 
> They plug into the aquaero (you Have 8 temp sensor inputs on it, and it comes with 4 air temp sensors) but you can add more in various ways
> 
> Everything after install its in English, assuming you choose it are install (or your os )
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> That doesn't answer what I asked. First, sorry, I forgot to mention I'm going to be air cooling (I never got a short from an air leak )
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> 
> By location, I'm talking about where you attach the physical sensors and how you attach them. Which brings up another question. Are the sensors strictly for air temperature only or can they be attached somehow to pick up component temperature, such as the CPU, etc.?
> 
> To clarify my second question, I was referring to setting up and using the Aquaero without using the software.
Click to expand...

1 on components or on the aquaero

On the aquaero they go on a 2 pin dupont 2.54 header (there are 8 total headers on the aquaero)

2 On thing you are measuring depends - air temp, be creative, zip ties and bend the wire, tape ect. As to component yes, they will always be a bit off, there is a temp difference before heat is transferred, air blowing directly on the sensor will obviously skew the reading, but it depends on the material., you can always use electrical tape or foil tape to secure, i have wedged it inside a heat sink before, if you want to get crazy throw some tim under the sensor.

This is what they look like if it helps they do make other kinds, you can make your own, they also have glass bead, ones that are epoxied into a metal tube.









Yes, english
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fleacircus*
> 
> Quick question: Is there a way to kill the little red running led on the Aquaero 6 LT? I don't want to resort to covering it with electrical tape but I will if that's the only option.


The one on the rear or front


----------



## Fleacircus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> The one on the rear or front


The rear? The side with all of the plugs. I don't think there are any on the other side of the LT.


----------



## Bartdude

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lady Fitzgerald*
> 
> That doesn't answer what I asked. First, sorry, I forgot to mention I'm going to be air cooling (I never got a short from an air leak )
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> 
> By location, I'm talking about where you attach the physical sensors and how you attach them. Which brings up another question. Are the sensors strictly for air temperature only or can they be attached somehow to pick up component temperature, such as the CPU, etc.?
> 
> To clarify my second question, I was referring to setting up and using the Aquaero without using the software.


You don't need to place temp sensors on the CPU or the GPU, as stated b4 the Aquaero software has a hardware monitor built in which will display values of each component.


----------



## Jubijub

Just turned on my system yesterday, and two things are strange :

My setting is : AQ6 Pro + 2x D5 Aquabus/USB pumps + Aqualis XT Aquabus/USB
All devices are connected both via USB and Aquabus

- only 2 devices are recognized (I may have cabling issues), and they both show as "MPS" : is it normal than the AQ doesn't recognize them automatically ?
- when I go to "Aquabus" menu, I see nothing on the screen.

I suspect one of the MPS device is a pump (it reports power level, and 100% speed) and the other one is probably my reservoir (it reports full power, but 0 speed. It seems the AQ also detect the fill sensor, even though I still haven't put the membrane on top).

I will troubleshoot by unplugging USB+Aquabus on the devices and test them one by one, but I wanted to know if the above was normal.


----------



## AngryGoldfish

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bartdude*
> 
> You don't need to place temp sensors on the CPU or the GPU, as stated b4 the Aquaero software has a hardware monitor built in which will display values of each component.


That's odd. If Aquaero and Aquasuite already have a hardware monitor built in, why have some suggested to link AIDA64 or HWiNFO's monitoring abilities to the Aquaero and run fan curves off of that?


----------



## Bartdude

From my understanding it's a recent addition but they have left in the ability to connect to AIDA64 etc. I don't use either but I can clearly see my CPU temp etc. in Aquaero.


----------



## TheAbyss

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AngryGoldfish*
> 
> That's odd. If Aquaero and Aquasuite already have a hardware monitor built in, why have some suggested to link AIDA64 or HWiNFO's monitoring abilities to the Aquaero and run fan curves off of that?


Well if you have the 2017 Aquasuite license, you have the functionality, while the last free release 2016-4 does not... so the Need to use a "3rd-Party" program with an Interface depends on your Software license.


----------



## Lady Fitzgerald

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bartdude*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Lady Fitzgerald*
> 
> That doesn't answer what I asked. First, sorry, I forgot to mention I'm going to be air cooling (I never got a short from an air leak )
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> 
> By location, I'm talking about where you attach the physical sensors and how you attach them. Which brings up another question. Are the sensors strictly for air temperature only or can they be attached somehow to pick up component temperature, such as the CPU, etc.?
> 
> To clarify my second question, *I was referring to setting up and using the Aquaero without using the softwa*re.
> 
> 
> 
> You don't need to place temp sensors on the CPU or the GPU, as stated b4 the Aquaero software has a hardware monitor built in which will display values of each component.
Click to expand...

Since the software won't run in Linux, I would need to use Aquaero _without_ the software once I switch over to Linux.


----------



## Lady Fitzgerald

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AngryGoldfish*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Bartdude*
> 
> You don't need to place temp sensors on the CPU or the GPU, as stated b4 the Aquaero software has a hardware monitor built in which will display values of each component.
> 
> 
> 
> That's odd. If Aquaero and Aquasuite already have a hardware monitor built in, why have some suggested to link AIDA64 or HWiNFO's monitoring abilities to the Aquaero and run fan curves off of that?
Click to expand...

Because the manual is three years out of date (frankly, I'm not impressed with their documentation)?


----------



## war4peace

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AngryGoldfish*
> 
> That's odd. If Aquaero and Aquasuite already have a hardware monitor built in, why have some suggested to link AIDA64 or HWiNFO's monitoring abilities to the Aquaero and run fan curves off of that?


Because HWInfo64 can read a lot more sensors than Aquasuite's internal monitoring. For examply, my PCH and M.2 SSD are invisible in Aquasuite's internal sensor monitoring, but HWInfo64 can read them through ASUS EC chip.


----------



## ForNever

I agree, the documentation is minimal. It took a lot of fiddling around with mine before I really had it set up the way I wanted, but it was completely worth it. The unit is capable of far more than it appears, but you're right, they don't do a real good job of explaining exactly how to set it up.

If you utilize the hardwired temp sensors and set fan curves based on them, the unit will not require ANY software to run, however you'd need to boot to windows in order to change any settings later via AS. It is possible to make adjustments to setpoints from the head unit only (for example while you're in BIOS, or in Linux), it's not very intuitive, and a bit clumsy to do.

I would recommend placing a sensor directly on one of the CPU heat pipes under the heat sink fins using gaffers tape, or thermal tape, then basing fan curves off of that.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bartdude*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Lady Fitzgerald*
> 
> That doesn't answer what I asked. First, sorry, I forgot to mention I'm going to be air cooling (I never got a short from an air leak )
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> 
> By location, I'm talking about where you attach the physical sensors and how you attach them. Which brings up another question. Are the sensors strictly for air temperature only or can they be attached somehow to pick up component temperature, such as the CPU, etc.?
> 
> To clarify my second question, I was referring to setting up and using the Aquaero without using the software.
> 
> 
> 
> You don't need to place temp sensors on the CPU or the GPU, as stated b4 the Aquaero software has a hardware monitor built in which will display values of each component.
Click to expand...

She is running linux, and i can't stress this enough of you user on die temps your fans spike and drop constantly
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fleacircus*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> The one on the rear or front
> 
> 
> 
> The rear? The side with all of the plugs. I don't think there are any on the other side of the LT.
Click to expand...

Not that I am aware of
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jubijub*
> 
> Just turned on my system yesterday, and two things are strange :
> 
> My setting is : AQ6 Pro + 2x D5 Aquabus/USB pumps + Aqualis XT Aquabus/USB
> All devices are connected both via USB and Aquabus
> 
> - only 2 devices are recognized (I may have cabling issues), and they both show as "MPS" : is it normal than the AQ doesn't recognize them automatically ?
> - when I go to "Aquabus" menu, I see nothing on the screen.
> 
> I suspect one of the MPS device is a pump (it reports power level, and 100% speed) and the other one is probably my reservoir (it reports full power, but 0 speed. It seems the AQ also detect the fill sensor, even though I still haven't put the membrane on top).
> 
> I will troubleshoot by unplugging USB+Aquabus on the devices and test them one by one, but I wanted to know if the above was normal.


Everything you mentioned is amps device, did you change the aquabus address on the other pump, i know the pumps are addressed the same, no idea about the res.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AngryGoldfish*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Bartdude*
> 
> You don't need to place temp sensors on the CPU or the GPU, as stated b4 the Aquaero software has a hardware monitor built in which will display values of each component.
> 
> 
> 
> That's odd. If Aquaero and Aquasuite already have a hardware monitor built in, why have some suggested to link AIDA64 or HWiNFO's monitoring abilities to the Aquaero and run fan curves off of that?
Click to expand...

It's a new feature
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheAbyss*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *AngryGoldfish*
> 
> That's odd. If Aquaero and Aquasuite already have a hardware monitor built in, why have some suggested to link AIDA64 or HWiNFO's monitoring abilities to the Aquaero and run fan curves off of that?
> 
> 
> 
> Well if you have the 2017 Aquasuite license, you have the functionality, while the last free release 2016-4 does not... so the Need to use a "3rd-Party" program with an Interface depends on your Software license.
Click to expand...

afaik everyone has access to 2017


----------



## Captaincaveman

mps_400 connected via aquabus but acting up...

on the license manager page of the aquasuite sub menu it says:


on the aquabus page of the aquaero sub menu it says:


on the sensor page of the aquaero sub menu I cannot see any of the mentioned temperature sensors (32,33) and flow sensor shows 0.
also, why would there be fill level and d5 pump there? I have none of these connected...


----------



## Shoggy

Since your flow sensor is not connected via USB I assume you have missed the firmware update for it. Please connect the sensor via USB, do the update and load the factory defaults afterwards to be on the safe side.

It is correct that the mps board is also shown as fill level, D5 pump etc. since all these devices use the same controller board. The aquasuite is not able to tell via aquabus which kind of device it is. It just shows you how all possible ressource mappings for this device.

I should find some time later today to write all relevant stuff about the new aquasuite 2017-3


----------



## Captaincaveman

Thanks for the reply, Shoggy.

I've disconnected the aquabus cable from the mps-400 and left only the usb cable connected.
It shows in device manager as an unknown usb device, but it doesn't show in aquasuite.


----------



## Shoggy

I assume you do not know if it was working before because in your first screenshot the connection is also shown as disconnected so it seems that problem might already exist since a longer time and you have not noticed it so far.

As long as you do not get a USB connection you will not be able to update the firmware and without this update the sensor will not work with an aquaero that has the latest firmware.

Maybe try a different USB port or swap the USB cable with the one of the aquaero for a test.


----------



## Revan654

Quick Question: I havn't booted up PC yet. I want to know if this is possible or not before I attempt it.

Question One: Is it possible to turn off RGB lighting on the farbwerk controller?
Question Two: Is it possible to turn off one of PowerAdjust 3 controllers?

What I'm trying to do is Switch between UV & RGB. Maybe one day I'll go with RGB & another day I'll go with UV.


----------



## Mega Man

You can output no voltage, yes


----------



## Shoggy

*aquasuite 2017-3*

The aquasuite has received an update. On November first we have released version 2017-3 which can be downloaded here.

Version 2017-3 contains many in-depth changes and improvements. A lot of work has been done, especially in the interaction between the interface and database as well as the administration of aquabus devices. We were also able to significantly improve the speed of the user interface.

Due to the many changes, the aquasuite 2017-3 brings new firmware versions for almost all our devices. Especially in the firmware of the aquaero many things have been revised and extensions for upcoming devices have been are already integrated - more about that soon!

If you use devices with the aquaero that are only connected via aquabus it is indispensable to connect such devices via USB to perform an update of the firmware, otherwise devices will no longer work with the aquaero or show a strange behavior.

*Changelog for the aquasuite 2017-3*

Bugfix: problems with the Y-axis scaling on overview pages (diagrams etc.)
Bugfix: a memory usage above 6GB was not displayed correctly
Bugfix: behavior of the button to load log data
New: settings for mps devices have been simplified
New: aquabus overview with much more information about data mapping and conflicts between devices
*Changelog for the Aqua Computer Windows service*

Bugfix: poweradjust as data source was not processed
Bugfix: temperatures at Ryzen / Threadripper CPUs were wrong or not read at all
Bugfix: incorrect units of data sources from HWiNFO
Bugfix: hardware monitoring - the Power Package Sensor (Intel) had a wrong ID
Bugfix: general improvements and bug fixes for hardware monitoring
Bugfix: aquasuite web has sent data even if the GUID was invalid
Discontinuation: Open Hardware Monitor is no longer supported as an external program
*General changes for the aquaero 5 and 6 series*
In the aquaero, the aquabus is checked for resource conflicts now. Problems are marked with a warning symbol and further information about a conflict will be displayed too. This helps to keep track of complex systems and to understand where a displayed sensor value is coming from. Devices are highlighted in red if they are not connected anymore. Devices that had a communication problem in the last 4 hours are highlighted in yellow.

In the aquaero firmware the aquabus administration has been completely revised. Devices get mapped much faster into the system now. In addition, we have already integrated upcoming devices. As already mentioned: make sure to update the firmware of devices that are connected via aquabus.

As of now it is possible to connect two aquaero slave devices to an aquaero master device. Since a slave device offers no USB communication the aquabus ID for a second slave device must be set by placing a jumper onto temperature sensor port 8. A slave device can also monitor a flow sensor now and transfer its value via aquabus to the master device.

Also new is that we moved the option to connect a second flow sensor from fan port 1 to the aquabus lowspeed port which had no function lately. This way fan port 1 can be still used for other stuff when connecting a second flow sensor.

In addition, a new status page has been programmed which shows the current profile, number of alarms/warnings and the current alarm level. To keep it simple we no longer display the 12V on/off messages.

*Changelog for aquaero 5 and 6*

Bugfix: some text and menu entries have been improved
Bugfix: non-connected temperature sensors with an offset are now automatically hidden
New: administration of aquabus resources and status information
New: the aquabus communication has become much more robust compared to previous implementations
New: two aquaeros with slave firmware can be connected to a master device
New: a second flow sensor will be connected to the aquabus lowspeed port now
New: status page for profiles, alarms, warnings, alarm levels
New: 12V on/off messages are no longer displayed
*Changelog for aquaero 5 and 6 with slave firmware*

New: improved aquabus communication
New: value of a connected flow sensor is transmitted via aquabus
New: up to two aquaero slave devices via aquabus
New: jumper on temperature sensor 8 selects aquabus address for second slave device
*Changelog for aquaduct mk IV and V*

Bugfix: some text and menu entries have been improved
Bugfix: non-connected temperature sensors with an offset are now automatically hidden
New: 12V on/off messages are no longer displayed
*Changelog for farbwerk*

New: improved aquabus communication
New: automatic prioritization of the aquabus communication, no more configuration required
New: channels can be easily turned of in the aquasuite software
*Changelog for aquastream ULTIMATE*

New: both flow sensor and temperatures values can be transferred via aquabus
*Changelog for poweradjust 2 and 3*

Changed: settings of flow sensor for transmission via aquabus must be set via USB
Bugfix: partly faulty over-current shutdown at poweradjust 3 - affects only devices delivered from June 2017
*Changelog for mps devices (flow/fill/pressure sensors and D5 pump)*

New: improved aquabus communication
New: automatic prioritization of the aquabus communication, no more configuration required
New: reset to factory defaults will keep the correct device type
*Changelog for VISION devices*

Bugfix: assignment of buttons on the aquaremote remote control
Bugfix: infrared buttons Q to P do not work in keyboard mode
Bugfix: no more bouncing of the mouse button of the aquaremote
Let us know if you encounter any problems with the new aquasuite. Two major bugs that we are already aware of: when two farbwerk are connected via aquabus to an aquaero, the second one can not be configured; and high flow USB sensor will show zero as flow if the value is below 80 l/h.
We currently collect reported problems and will fix them with aquasuite 2017-3.1 on November 21st.


----------



## Captaincaveman

Tried connecting the mps-400 using the other usb cable (the one the aquaero was using).
Still nothing on aquasuite. Also tried switching the usb headers on the motherboard and still nothing.
It is detected in device manager as an unknown usb device, just not by aquasuite.


----------



## Mega Man

Impressive thanks Shoogy, esp aquaero slaves and using low for flow, a+


----------



## tomsonx1983

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *war4peace*
> 
> Because HWInfo64 can read a lot more sensors than Aquasuite's internal monitoring. For examply, my PCH and M.2 SSD are invisible in Aquasuite's internal sensor monitoring, but HWInfo64 can read them through ASUS EC chip.


I Installed new version today and my 950Pro shows up in aquaero service senors








Same as intel 750 U.2


----------



## Barefooter

Some very nice changes and upgrades for the Aquasuite software


----------



## Daggi

I'm having trouble with my USB high flow meters after this firmware upgrade. The only way I can get my flow meters to show up in aquasuite is to connect them with the usb connection. The Aquabus dont work after I upgraded. I did the firmware upgrade with the sensors and the Aquaero XT connected. Tried to disconnect the usb cable to the flow sensor, but then i dont get any signal. Both sensors are connected as number 12 and 13.
Anyone got a clue on what this problem might be?


----------



## tomsonx1983

Did u connect usb for firmware updade ?
It seams that firmware can be updated only via usb, than u can disconnect it


----------



## Daggi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tomsonx1983*
> 
> Did u connect usb for firmware updade ?
> It seams that firmware can be updated only via usb, than u can disconnect it


Yes did that and then disconnetcted the usb and connected the aquabus cable. Ill use it with USB for now.


----------



## GTXJackBauer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Daggi*
> 
> Yes did that and then disconnetcted the usb and connected the aquabus cable. Ill use it with USB for now.


If it still doesn't work, try turning off the power completely, including the PSU plug on the wall and leave it for a few minutes before powering it all back on.


----------



## iCrap

Does anyone know a full list of AuaComputerCMD commands? I have scripts to turn LEDs off at night and on in the morning but i want to automate the LCD screen backlight as well as my fabwerk controller.

For example here is my Lights on command "C:\Program Files\aquasuite\AquaComputerCmd.exe --fan4:70 -pwm1:70 -pwm2:70"

Any way to do this? I really with Aquasuite would have something like this built in....


----------



## Scars Unseen

Anyone know any Japanese sites to get an Aquabus cable from? I neither feel like waiting a week or more for one to ship overseas, nor paying the $280 that Amazon Japan is charging for it. Honestly, I'm just kind of miffed that my D5 pump didn't come with the cable in the first place.


----------



## war4peace

I think it would be best if you built your own.


----------



## fockwulf

I do have a question for those having experience with Farbwerk:

I am willing to assign the color to match the temperature of the cooling liquid. However I am willing to have the colors shifting from green to red passing by yellow. The problem is that color1 and color2 order can not be changed and the colors currently shift from green to red but passing by blue and pink hues...

Does anyone know if this order can be changed ? in the 2017-3 update from aquasuite there now is an arrow showing the color path. is there a way to reverse it ?


----------



## iCrap

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scars Unseen*
> 
> Anyone know any Japanese sites to get an Aquabus cable from? I neither feel like waiting a week or more for one to ship overseas, nor paying the $280 that Amazon Japan is charging for it. Honestly, I'm just kind of miffed that my D5 pump didn't come with the cable in the first place.


Its a 4 pin fan cable. make your own for much cheaper


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iCrap*
> 
> Its a 4 pin fan cable. make your own for much cheaper


Cheaper yes as long as the person has crimpers already. If not it will be more expensive.

D5 Pumps come with 3-pin cable. 4-pin cable is only needed if you don't plan to use USB cable.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scars Unseen*
> 
> Anyone know any Japanese sites to get an Aquabus cable from? I neither feel like waiting a week or more for one to ship overseas, nor paying the $280 that Amazon Japan is charging for it. Honestly, I'm just kind of miffed that my D5 pump didn't come with the cable in the first place.


I would check Moddiy for dual female fan cable. I do believe they carry a few.

*Update*

Link: https://www.moddiy.com/products/Custom-Length-4%252dPin-PWM-Fan-Sleeved-Female%252dto%252dFemale-Cable.html


----------



## war4peace

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> Cheaper yes as long as the person has crimpers already. If not it will be more expensive.


Um, no, he already mentioned ridiculous shipping prices.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> I would check Moddiy for dual female fan cable. I do believe they carry a few.
> 
> *Update*
> 
> Link: https://www.moddiy.com/products/Custom-Length-4%252dPin-PWM-Fan-Sleeved-Female%252dto%252dFemale-Cable.html


I don't think that's a *Japanese* website...


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *war4peace*
> 
> Um, no, he already mentioned ridiculous shipping prices.
> I don't think that's a *Japanese* website...


It's Hong Kong, Shipping time shouldn't be to bad from there & They do offer Free Shipping on the item.


----------



## war4peace

Wow, thanks for the info, I was certain they're from the States








A bit offtopic, but could someone please provide a reliable source for *white* Barrow fittings and connectors from Asia? I found some sellers on Taobao, but I really am not sure I should spend 500+ dollars there.


----------



## Mega Man

No, they all come from China, you can try mod my mods, or buy other brands


----------



## Scars Unseen

Crimpers I have, but not the molex connectors. Hmm... I may just use the power and reset button wires from my last case as a temporary solution. Not pretty, but it should work until I can get some supplies in.


----------



## jura11

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *war4peace*
> 
> Wow, thanks for the info, I was certain they're from the States
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A bit offtopic, but could someone please provide a reliable source for *white* Barrow fittings and connectors from Asia? I found some sellers on Taobao, but I really am not sure I should spend 500+ dollars there.


Hi there

I would try Aliexpress (FormulaMod) or over on eBay I use mizucooling

http://stores.ebay.co.uk/mizucooling/Other-Fittings-/_i.html?_dmd=2&_fsub=8347385013&_sid=267273683&_trksid=p4634.c0.m322&_vc=1

I use on my build exclusively only Barrow fittings

Hope this helps

Thanks, Jura


----------



## Kojaqe

Playing with Fabwerk off and on for awhile found that you can just grab the end indicator with the mouse and move it around. Try it.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scars Unseen*
> 
> Crimpers I have, but not the molex connectors. Hmm... I may just use the power and reset button wires from my last case as a temporary solution. Not pretty, but it should work until I can get some supplies in.


just to reiterate if you plug in the usb, you DO NOT NEED a 4 pin, the supplied 3 pin will work and the usb is INCLUDED !

IIRC you may nto even need that, it may make 5v from the 12v on the pat 4 pin power connector, but i could be wrong

the only time you NEED the 4 pin aquabus is if you are daisy chaining them and you have something that can not pull the 5v off of the usb/power cable AFTER the pump in the chain


----------



## Shoggy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Daggi*
> 
> I'm having trouble with my USB high flow meters after this firmware upgrade. The only way I can get my flow meters to show up in aquasuite is to connect them with the usb connection. The Aquabus dont work after I upgraded. I did the firmware upgrade with the sensors and the Aquaero XT connected. Tried to disconnect the usb cable to the flow sensor, but then i dont get any signal. Both sensors are connected as number 12 and 13.
> Anyone got a clue on what this problem might be?


I recommend to go to the system tab of the sensor and to load the factory defaults. Afterwards you might have to set the correct device type again. You should also completely turn off the whole PC - switch the PSU off or unplug the cord for a moment. The aquaero should perform a full restart after all these updates which is only possible when it has no more power. If you just shut down the PC it will still get power via USB.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scars Unseen*
> 
> Anyone know any Japanese sites to get an Aquabus cable from? I neither feel like waiting a week or more for one to ship overseas, nor paying the $280 that Amazon Japan is charging for it. Honestly, I'm just kind of miffed that my D5 pump didn't come with the cable in the first place.


There is no need to get another cable. Your pump and also your aquaero came with a 3-pin cable which can be used to forward the rpm signal or for the aquabus. A 3-pin cable is enough because your pump must be powered from the PSU anyway. The 4-pin cable is mandatory for aquabus devices that have no regular power plug and also no connection via USB (where they would normally get their power from).

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fockwulf*
> 
> The problem is that color1 and color2 order can not be changed and the colors currently shift from green to red but passing by blue and pink hues...
> 
> Does anyone know if this order can be changed ? in the 2017-3 update from aquasuite there now is an arrow showing the color path. is there a way to reverse it ?


Just click the arrow to switch its orientation and you can also drag and drop the color dots or enter the RGB values manually into the boxes.

*** EDIT ***

Har har, almost forgot the most important thing: *aquasuite 2017-3.1 is available!*








It already fixes some bugs that have been reported in the last few days.


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *war4peace*
> 
> Wow, thanks for the info, I was certain they're from the States
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A bit offtopic, but could someone please provide a reliable source for *white* Barrow fittings and connectors from Asia? I found some sellers on Taobao, but I really am not sure I should spend 500+ dollars there.


Trust me it's all Chinese made, You can specially tell from there electric wiring. It's the same stuff that CableMod uses for there so called "premium" cables.

Barrow Fittings:

Link 1: https://www.aliexpress.com/store/431286?spm=2114.search0104.3.5.6W2b0h
Link 2: https://watercooling.aliexpress.com/store/1480188?spm=2114.search0104.3.31.6W2b0h
Link 3: https://winfmod.aliexpress.com/store/2346072?spm=2114.search0104.3.39.6W2b0h
Link 3: https://www.aliexpress.com/store/1394909?spm=2114.12010612.0.0.22a4b1d5XQNYda
Link 4: https://zerowatercooling.aliexpress.com/store/1935936?spm=2114.search0104.3.90.6W2b0h

Some stores are currently having a sale & there a upcoming sale that starts on 11.11.17 I would check them all out before placing an order. If Shipping price is high contact the store & they will adjust the price for you.

Usually the default is black, most stores carry all the colors, just need to select the option.

Connectors

Link : https://www.aliexpress.com/store/group/Fan-connector/1935124_511769232.html?spm=2114.12010608.0.0.474cc72cUS7FtZ

Place I usually use for Connectors on Aliexpress is out of stock with all there connectors currently. If you can't find Molex brand connectors for sell, JMT is second best brand to go with.

Asia Stores (MDPC-X Global Store)
Link 1: http://sleeving-japan.com/
Link 2: http://www.oreioncustom.com/
--
MDPC-X Main Store (Germany): https://www.cable-sleeving.com/


----------



## GTXJackBauer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> Har har, almost forgot the most important thing: *aquasuite 2017-3.1 is available!*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It already fixes some bugs that have been reported in the last few days.


Awesome!







My 2nd Farbwerk is up and functioning again. To its programmed color of course.


----------



## iCrap

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> I recommend to go to the system tab of the sensor and to load the factory defaults. Afterwards you might have to set the correct device type again. You should also completely turn off the whole PC - switch the PSU off or unplug the cord for a moment. The aquaero should perform a full restart after all these updates which is only possible when it has no more power. If you just shut down the PC it will still get power via USB.
> There is no need to get another cable. Your pump and also your aquaero came with a 3-pin cable which can be used to forward the rpm signal or for the aquabus. A 3-pin cable is enough because your pump must be powered from the PSU anyway. The 4-pin cable is mandatory for aquabus devices that have no regular power plug and also no connection via USB (where they would normally get their power from).
> Just click the arrow to switch its orientation and you can also drag and drop the color dots or enter the RGB values manually into the boxes.
> 
> *** EDIT ***
> 
> Har har, almost forgot the most important thing: *aquasuite 2017-3.1 is available!*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It already fixes some bugs that have been reported in the last few days.


Any idea about my question?

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iCrap*
> 
> Does anyone know a full list of AuaComputerCMD commands? I have scripts to turn LEDs off at night and on in the morning but i want to automate the LCD screen backlight as well as my fabwerk controller.
> 
> For example here is my Lights on command "C:\Program Files\aquasuite\AquaComputerCmd.exe --fan4:70 -pwm1:70 -pwm2:70"
> 
> Any way to do this? I really with Aquasuite would have something like this built in....


----------



## jsutter71

I had a few issues with the new software and firmware upgrades. Took me a while to figure out the new settings for the pumps and lighting and my Aquabus connections disappeared. After I disconnected/reconnected the power my aquabus connections restored, but Instead of controlling my pumps speed through the individual tabs, as I previously did, the system made me do it through the Aquaero tab instead.


----------



## Bartdude

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jsutter71*
> 
> I had a few issues with the new software and firmware upgrades. Took me a while to figure out the new settings for the pumps and lighting and my Aquabus connections disappeared. After I disconnected/reconnected the power my aquabus connections restored, but Instead of controlling my pumps speed through the individual tabs, as I previously did, the system made me do it through the Aquaero tab instead.


After reading some of the bugs already found on the Aquacomputer forum I've decided to hold off on the new firmware update, however they have said the bugs will be addressed in a new update coming on the 21st of this month


----------



## Shoggy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iCrap*
> 
> Any idea about my question?


The command line tool can only access the aquaero and VISION devices. You get all available commands by starting the tool without any parameters.



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bartdude*
> 
> After reading some of the bugs already found on the Aquacomputer forum I've decided to hold off on the new firmware update, however they have said the bugs will be addressed in a new update coming on the 21st of this month


The bugs that have been reported in our forum are already fixed with aquasuite 2017-3.1 which I mentioned in my previous post.


----------



## iCrap

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> The command line tool can only access the aquaero and VISION devices. You get all available commands by starting the tool without any parameters.
> 
> 
> The bugs that have been reported in our forum are already fixed with aquasuite 2017-3.1 which I mentioned in my previous post.


Oh... So is there anyway to automate the Fabrwerk switching on and off then? For example have the LEDs switch of at 11pm and turn on at 10am?


----------



## Shoggy

If you own an aquaero and connect the farbwerk via aquabus to it, then you can use the timer function and different profiles.


----------



## Kimir

Installed 2017-3.1 yesterday, update was flawless!


----------



## Eusbwoa18

Ok, so I have a 6 LT on the way that will go into my new system.

I'm looking for an inline flow meter and a temperature sensor

What are my options that will work with the Aquaero? I know there is an Aquaero flow meter, will any others work? What about temperature sensors? Recommendations?

Thanks in advance.


----------



## Mega Man

All will work that can go into a fan header, they will not on the flow header.

For the flow header you will need to know the pulses iirc...and you have to calibrate it


----------



## Bartdude

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> The command line tool can only access the aquaero and VISION devices. You get all available commands by starting the tool without any parameters.
> 
> 
> The bugs that have been reported in our forum are already fixed with aquasuite 2017-3.1 which I mentioned in my previous post.


Ah I missed that sry, thx for the info. Does that include bug fix for high flow sensor? If so I'll go ahead and install


----------



## tomsonx1983

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pgdeaner*
> 
> Ok, so I have a 6 LT on the way that will go into my new system.
> 
> I'm looking for an inline flow meter and a temperature sensor
> 
> What are my options that will work with the Aquaero? I know there is an Aquaero flow meter, will any others work? What about temperature sensors? Recommendations?
> 
> Thanks in advance.


I'm using koolance inline flow meter connected to the flow header, u can easily calculate impulses and need to mod a plug


----------



## Shoggy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bartdude*
> 
> Ah I missed that sry, thx for the info. Does that include bug fix for high flow sensor? If so I'll go ahead and install


Yes, that has been already fixed.


----------



## iCrap

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> If you own an aquaero and connect the farbwerk via aquabus to it, then you can use the timer function and different profiles.


I have an aquaero but I have the fabrwerk just plugged into the mobo via USB. Will that still work?


----------



## Eusbwoa18

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tomsonx1983*
> 
> I'm using koolance inline flow meter connected to the flow header, u can easily calculate impulses and need to mod a plug


How's the restriction on the koolance vs. the aquaero flow meter? I'd guess you just need to replace the plug on the koolance cable?


----------



## Dasandmancometh

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pgdeaner*
> 
> How's the restriction on the koolance vs. the aquaero flow meter? I'd guess you just need to replace the plug on the koolance cable?


I can't speak to the difference between the two, but I also have a couple koolance flow meters hooked up. The koolance flow meters use two wires and you just wire them into a three pin fan plug, one wire on each end, no wire in the middle. Then it's only a mater of figuring out the custom setting for software. Which is preatty easy to figure out.

This is for my Koolance INS-FM17N where (HZ =0.307*HZ and the formula was taken from a post on the Koolance forum).

You can get the HZ number on Koolances site in the specs section for the item.

LPM = Liters per minute.
HZ = Pulses per second aka PPS.
PPM= Pulses per minute (to be used as the custom setting in the Aquaero software)

To solve for HZ, substitute 1 for LPM and divide both sides by 0.307.

HZ = 1 / 0.307

Then to turn HZ (PPS) into the number of pulses per minute (PPM), multiply by 60.

PPM = HZ * 60

195.4 = (1 / 0.307) * 60

LPM = 0.307 * HZ
HZ = 1 / 0.307 = 3.257329
PPM = HZ * 60
3.257329 * 60 = 195.4397


----------



## Shoggy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iCrap*
> 
> I have an aquaero but I have the fabrwerk just plugged into the mobo via USB. Will that still work?


No, it must be connected to the aquaero via aquabus.


----------



## Eusbwoa18

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dasandmancometh*
> 
> I can't speak to the difference between the two, but I also have a couple koolance flow meters hooked up. The koolance flow meters use two wires and you just wire them into a three pin fan plug, one wire on each end, no wire in the middle. Then it's only a mater of figuring out the custom setting for software. Which is preatty easy to figure out.
> 
> This is for my Koolance INS-FM17N where (HZ =0/307*HZ and the formula was taken from a post in on the Koolance forum).
> 
> You can get the HZ number on Koolances site in the specs section for the item.
> 
> LPM = Liters per minute.
> HZ = Pulses per second aka PPS.
> PPM= Pulses per minute (to be used as the custom setting in the Aquaero software)
> 
> To solve for HZ, substitute 1 for LPM and divide both sides by 0.307.
> 
> HZ = 1 / 0.307.
> 
> Then to turn HZ (PPS) into the number of pulses per minute (PPM), multiply by 60.
> 
> PPM = HZ * 60
> 
> 195.4 = (1 / 0.307) * 60
> 
> LPM = 0.307 * HZ
> HZ = 1 / 0.307 = 3.257329
> PPM = HZ * 60
> 3.257329 * 60 = 195.4397


First of all, thank you for taking the time to document this for me.

There is a version of the Koolance product http://koolance.com/coolant-flow-meter-stainless-steel-with-temperature-sensor-sen-fm18t10
that includes a temperature sensor. It says it's compatible with a 10K ohm compatible cooling system.

Would the temp sensor work with the Aquaero 6 LT? Not sure about the 10K ohm reference.

Thanks!


----------



## tomsonx1983

@ pgdaener
Yep it will work only different pulse calculation will be with that meter
212 imp/ltr for 10 mm id tubing


----------



## iCrap

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> No, it must be connected to the aquaero via aquabus.


Alright so i created a double-ended 4pin fan cable and tried plugging into both the low and high ports on the aquero and then one of the ports on the Fabrwerk... nothing shows up in the Aquabus menu. Any ideas? Do i have to disconnect the fabrwerks USB connection?


----------



## Dasandmancometh

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pgdeaner*
> 
> First of all, thank you for taking the time to document this for me.
> 
> There is a version of the Koolance product http://koolance.com/coolant-flow-meter-stainless-steel-with-temperature-sensor-sen-fm18t10
> that includes a temperature sensor. It says it's compatible with a 10K ohm compatible cooling system.
> 
> Would the temp sensor work with the Aquaero 6 LT? Not sure about the 10K ohm reference.
> 
> Thanks!


Yeah it's no problem at all, when I was trying to figure it out I keep getting no replies or people would point me to a thread on some forum that doesn't exist anymore. I finally found the answer on the Koolance forum, but it should be in this thread.


----------



## Shoggy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iCrap*
> 
> Alright so i created a double-ended 4pin fan cable and tried plugging into both the low and high ports on the aquero and then one of the ports on the Fabrwerk... nothing shows up in the Aquabus menu. Any ideas? Do i have to disconnect the fabrwerks USB connection?


I assume both devices use the latest firmware. The farbwerk and any other aquabus device must be connected to the aquabus highspeed port. The lowspeed port has been disabled a long time ago and serves as second flow sensor port since the last aquasuite update.

When you have connected both devices, it is recommend to turn off the aquaero completely. Turn off the PSU or unplug the USB cable of the aquaero for a few seconds when the PC is shut down. It does not matter if farbwek is connected to USB.


----------



## iCrap

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> I assume both devices use the latest firmware. The farbwerk and any other aquabus device must be connected to the aquabus highspeed port. The lowspeed port has been disabled a long time ago and serves as second flow sensor port since the last aquasuite update.
> 
> When you have connected both devices, it is recommend to turn off the aquaero completely. Turn off the PSU or unplug the USB cable of the aquaero for a few seconds when the PC is shut down. It does not matter if farbwek is connected to USB.


Ok, will try that. Does it matter which port i use on the Fabrwerk?

Edit
Ok so i got it to show up. But i tried setting profile 1 to all lights on and profile 2 to all lights off and nothing happens.


----------



## Shoggy

Are the settings correct when you switch between both profiles of the aquaero. I mean does it save the settings?


----------



## iCrap

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> Are the settings correct when you switch between both profiles of the aquaero. I mean does it save the settings?


It seems like its working for aquero settings... just not fabrwerk settings. Like profile 1 has the LCD backlight set to 0 and the profile 2 has the LCD backlight on 100%, and when i switch that works fine.


----------



## Shoggy

Might it be possible that you change the farbwerk settings in its own device tab? If so, that will not work of course. The profiles work only for the aquaero settings so you have to configure farbwerk through the controller tab of the aquaero. These settings can be saved by the aquaero - but not the settings from the aquaero itself.


----------



## iCrap

Oh... ok makes sense. But I don't see a menu to control the fabrwerk through aquero tab?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> Might it be possible that you change the farbwerk settings in its own device tab? If so, that will not work of course. The profiles work only for the aquaero settings so you have to configure farbwerk through the controller tab of the aquaero. These settings can be saved by the aquaero - but not the settings from the aquaero itself.


----------



## Shoggy

The red, green and blue channels can be accessed as outputs in the controller tab. So for example add a new RGB controller and assign the channels of the farbwerk to it. Works the same way for all other controller types.


----------



## iCrap

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> The red, green and blue channels can be accessed as outputs in the controller tab. So for example add a new RGB controller and assign the channels of the farbwerk to it. Works the same way for all other controller types.


But thats where I am confused. when I click outputs I only see this. and red,green,blue listed there are the ones for the Aquero's LED output


----------



## Shoggy

Maybe you should update to aquasuite 2017-3.1. There was a bug with the farbwek in 2017-3. Should not affect your current problems but who knows...


----------



## GTXJackBauer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> Maybe you should update to aquasuite 2017-3.1. There was a bug with the farbwek in 2017-3.


This. My 2 Farbwerks started to function properly after this update was done.

This might be a bit irrelevant but are we limited to 2 Farbwerks only?


----------



## Shoggy

Yes, the limit is two devices. The thing is that the aquaero has to process all the RGB stuff for the farbwerk if you connect it via aquabus. Each aquabus device means a bit more CPU load so we had to limit each type of devices. Besides that each aquabus device also requires some resources in the memory which is also not infinite of course.


----------



## Barefooter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GTXJackBauer*
> 
> This. My 2 Farbwerks started to function properly after this update was done.
> 
> This might be a bit irrelevant but are we limited to 2 Farbwerks only?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> Yes, the limit is two devices. The thing is that the aquaero has to process all the RGB stuff for the farbwerk if you connect it via aquabus. Each aquabus device means a bit more CPU load so we had to limit each type of devices. Besides that each aquabus device also requires some resources in the memory which is also not infinite of course.


I've been following along with this today. I know that we are limited to four aquabus devices. In the build I'm working on now, I already have four aquabus devices, two D5 pumps, a flow meter and a fill level sensor in the reservoir.

I also have one Farbwerk that I was planning to just leave a five pin USB cable plugged into, and then use the USB for control. Is this not going to work Shoggy, or is it just going to be limited control? I assume it would not work over the Aquabus with four other devices already?


----------



## Shoggy

The aquabus is not limited to four devices! I assume you confuse this with the limit of four mps devices. At the moment you can control the following aquabus devices at the same time:

2x aquastream XT/ULTIMATE
8x poweradjust 2/3*
2x aquaero 5/6 LT*
4x mps based devices (flow/pressure/fill level sensors and D5 pump with aquabus)
2x farbwerk
4x VISION
1x Real time clock module

*poweradjust controllers and aquaero LT as slave device share the same aquabus ID range. The maximum fan channel count (incl. the master aquaero) is limited to 12. So you can only have eight poweradjust or two aquaero as slave device or four poweradjust and one aquaero as slave device.

In your setup there would be no problem to connect the farbwerk via aquabus too. Keep in mind that the aquabus does not replace the USB connection so some features are not available through the aquabus. For example the brightness curves to create breathing effects are not available via aquabus.


----------



## Barefooter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> The aquabus is not limited to four devices! I assume you confuse this with the limit of four mps devices. At the moment you can control the following aquabus devices at the same time:
> 
> 2x aquastream XT/ULTIMATE
> 8x poweradjust 2/3*
> 2x aquaero 5/6 LT*
> 4x mps based devices (flow/pressure/fill level sensors and D5 pump with aquabus)
> 2x farbwerk
> 4x VISION
> 1x Real time clock module
> 
> *poweradjust controllers and aquaero LT as slave device share the same aquabus ID range. The maximum fan channel count (incl. the master aquaero) is limited to 12. So you can only have eight poweradjust or two aquaero as slave device or four poweradjust and one aquaero as slave device.
> 
> In your setup there would be no problem to connect the farbwerk via aquabus too. Keep in mind that the aquabus does not replace the USB connection so some features are not available through the aquabus. For example the brightness curves to create breathing effects are not available via aquabus.


Yes I was thinking of the four mps device limit. That clears it up for me. The Farbwerk is not an mps device, so I'm good to go. Thank you Shoggy!


----------



## iCrap

Got it working finally, I had to go into "outputs" and click the checkboxes on the Fabrwerk outputs. Now it's working with profile switching which awesome.


----------



## ttnuagmada

I don't know if this is the place for this question or not;

I have the AC high flow flow sensor connected to my AQ6. Over the last 4 months or so, the flowrate has slowly dropped. For example at 100%, initially I was getting 1.3GPM, but week-by-week it has dropped .1GPS and now it will top out at .8GPM. I have confirmed that it's not one of my D5's, as both push .5GPM if I unplug one of them. My loop has no discoloration, and i flushed the living hell out of my rads before i put everything together. Someone in another thread suggested that my meter might be drifting. I'm leaning towards that, because I have not noticed any actual issues with cooling performance. I typically run my pumps at 30%, which the sensor says is currently only pushing .2GPM (think it was about .5GPM before the drop), but I have not noticed any issues with cooling performance at all.

I guess my question is; is there any sort of way to calibrate this meter, or determine if the meter is faulty without simply replacing it, or taking my loop completely apart to make sure there are no obstructions?

If I _do_ end up replacing the meter, should i get another one like it, or is the MPS400 a better meter?


----------



## Shoggy

Have you checked the CPU block? Maybe it is clogged by plasticizer. In my opinion the #1 reason when the flow slowly falls over a longer period of time. Of course it could be also a clogged impeller in the flow sensor but I would say the problem usually starts in the CPU.


----------



## GTXJackBauer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ttnuagmada*
> 
> I don't know if this is the place for this question or not;
> 
> I have the AC high flow flow sensor connected to my AQ6. Over the last 4 months or so, the flowrate has slowly dropped. For example at 100%, initially I was getting 1.3GPM, but week-by-week it has dropped .1GPS and now it will top out at .8GPM. I have confirmed that it's not one of my D5's, as both push .5GPM if I unplug one of them. My loop has no discoloration, and i flushed the living hell out of my rads before i put everything together. Someone in another thread suggested that my meter might be drifting. I'm leaning towards that, because I have not noticed any actual issues with cooling performance. I typically run my pumps at 30%, which the sensor says is currently only pushing .2GPM (think it was about .5GPM before the drop), but I have not noticed any issues with cooling performance at all.
> 
> I guess my question is; is there any sort of way to calibrate this meter, or determine if the meter is faulty without simply replacing it, or taking my loop completely apart to make sure there are no obstructions?
> 
> If I _do_ end up replacing the meter, should i get another one like it, or is the MPS400 a better meter?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> Have you checked the CPU block? Maybe it is clogged by plasticizer. In my opinion the #1 reason when the flow slowly falls over a longer period of time. Of course it could be also a clogged impeller in the flow sensor but I would say the problem usually starts in the CPU.


This.

It could be a number of things. Just make sure you're not seeing your loop's flow deteriorate if you're able to tell. You might need a complete loop tear down and further investigation to your blocks and pumps, assuming your rads are fine.


----------



## ttnuagmada

My GPU block tops are transparent and I dont see anything at all in those. My CPU block top is nickel so i cant see in there. I've only barely had this thing put together for 4 months, I wouldn't have thought id have issues like that this early on. I guess i'll break it down whenever i get some free time.


----------



## AngryGoldfish

Can any Aquaero users answer this question:

Can you set fan speeds to a constant voltage via individual profiles?

What I'd like to do is manually set fan speeds and have them remain static. This will eliminate the need to use temperature probes or PWM curves based on components temperatures that tend to fluctuate.

Say for instance I'm going to play a game that I know is stressful on the CPU as well as the GPU, Aquasuite could load up with Windows and I could have a profile that has the fans set to individually preassigned voltages. I'd then play my game with the fans set to a constant speed that doesn't fluctuate. If I were playing a game that heated the GPU up more, I could have another profile set for that.

Then when I finish playing the game, I could open Aquasuite again and quickly select a 'silent' profile for idle usage. That way I have full control over each fan myself, without letting Windows or my motherboard BIOS ramp the fans up and down. The same applies to when I'm benchmarking, stress testing, overclocking, that kind of thing.

So essentially, I want Aquasuite to offer quickly accessible profiles that can be changed within a few seconds that set the fans to individually preassigned voltages, using the Aquaero as more of an automated 'manual' DC fan controller, almost like a console in a recording studio.


----------



## tomsonx1983

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AngryGoldfish*
> 
> Can any Aquaero users answer this question:
> 
> Can you set fan speeds to a constant voltage via individual profiles?
> 
> What I'd like to do is manually set fan speeds and have them remain static. This will eliminate the need to use temperature probes or PWM curves based on components temperatures that tend to fluctuate.
> 
> Say for instance I'm going to play a game that I know is stressful on the CPU as well as the GPU, Aquasuite could load up with Windows and I could have a profile that has the fans set to individually preassigned voltages. I'd then play my game with the fans set to a constant speed that doesn't fluctuate. If I were playing a game that heated the GPU up more, I could have another profile set for that.
> 
> Then when I finish playing the game, I could open Aquasuite again and quickly select a 'silent' profile for idle usage. That way I have full control over each fan myself, without letting Windows or my motherboard BIOS ramp the fans up and down. The same applies to when I'm benchmarking, stress testing, overclocking, that kind of thing.
> 
> So essentially, I want Aquasuite to offer quickly accessible profiles that can be changed within a few seconds that set the fans to individually preassigned voltages, using the Aquaero as more of an automated 'manual' DC fan controller, almost like a console in a recording studio.


Yup u can


----------



## AngryGoldfish

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tomsonx1983*
> 
> Yup u can


Awesome. Thanks, man. I think I'm going to bite the bullet. I just need to work out how to mount the device without screwing holes in my case. What would be a good way of mounting the Aquaero 6 LT to a vertical flat surface in the back compartment of my case without drilling holes? Would double-sided sticky pads affixed to the standoffs on each corner work? How heavy is the 6 LT?


----------



## tomsonx1983

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AngryGoldfish*
> 
> Awesome. Thanks, man. I think I'm going to bite the bullet. I just need to work out how to mount the device without screwing holes in my case. What would be a good way of mounting the Aquaero 6 LT to a vertical flat surface in the back compartment of my case without drilling holes? Would double-sided sticky pads affixed to the standoffs on each corner work? How heavy is the 6 LT?


Im not sure how heavy 6lt is, im using 6xt together with radiator mounted in custom bracket, but if u want drive fans in Dc mode i will advise you to get radiator as well, second will don't risk mounting it on double sided tape


----------



## Shoggy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AngryGoldfish*
> 
> Would double-sided sticky pads affixed to the standoffs on each corner work? How heavy is the 6 LT?


The aquaero LT is pretty light and would easily stay in place with some double-sided tape BUT the cables - especially the one from the PSU - will _pull_ on the board. I would fix the board with some larger drops of hot glue around the standoffs. This should keep the board where it is and you can still remove it some day.


----------



## GTXJackBauer

If you could position the LT somewhere with some type of air flow that would be recommended if not, that's cool too.


----------



## war4peace

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AngryGoldfish*
> 
> Awesome. Thanks, man. I think I'm going to bite the bullet. I just need to work out how to mount the device without screwing holes in my case. What would be a good way of mounting the Aquaero 6 LT to a vertical flat surface in the back compartment of my case without drilling holes? Would double-sided sticky pads affixed to the standoffs on each corner work? How heavy is the 6 LT?


Alone it weighs close to nothing. But the cables attached to it would pull it off the double/sided sticky tape.
I used a zip-tie to anchor mine in place in one machine, and placed it at the bottom on another.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AngryGoldfish*
> 
> Can any Aquaero users answer this question:
> 
> Can you set fan speeds to a constant voltage via individual profiles?
> 
> What I'd like to do is manually set fan speeds and have them remain static. This will eliminate the need to use temperature probes or PWM curves based on components temperatures that tend to fluctuate.
> 
> Say for instance I'm going to play a game that I know is stressful on the CPU as well as the GPU, Aquasuite could load up with Windows and I could have a profile that has the fans set to individually preassigned voltages. I'd then play my game with the fans set to a constant speed that doesn't fluctuate. If I were playing a game that heated the GPU up more, I could have another profile set for that.
> 
> Then when I finish playing the game, I could open Aquasuite again and quickly select a 'silent' profile for idle usage. That way I have full control over each fan myself, without letting Windows or my motherboard BIOS ramp the fans up and down. The same applies to when I'm benchmarking, stress testing, overclocking, that kind of thing.
> 
> So essentially, I want Aquasuite to offer quickly accessible profiles that can be changed within a few seconds that set the fans to individually preassigned voltages, using the Aquaero as more of an automated 'manual' DC fan controller, almost like a console in a recording studio.


Yes, up to 4 profiles.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AngryGoldfish*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *tomsonx1983*
> 
> Yup u can
> 
> 
> 
> Awesome. Thanks, man. I think I'm going to bite the bullet. I just need to work out how to mount the device without screwing holes in my case. What would be a good way of mounting the Aquaero 6 LT to a vertical flat surface in the back compartment of my case without drilling holes? Would double-sided sticky pads affixed to the standoffs on each corner work? How heavy is the 6 LT?
Click to expand...

Also they make the lt 5.25 mounting kit


----------



## AngryGoldfish

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GTXJackBauer*
> 
> If you could position the LT somewhere with some type of air flow that would be recommended if not, that's cool too.


It could be positioned right in front of a 92mm fan, but I'd rather avoid installing one of those as they are not known for being quiet. It might be worth it though because the back compartment also has two HDD's and has only passive air circulation.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> The aquaero LT is pretty light and would easily stay in place with some double-sided tape BUT the cables - especially the one from the PSU - will _pull_ on the board. I would fix the board with some larger drops of hot glue around the standoffs. This should keep the board where it is and you can still remove it some day.


Sweet. I could probably use isopropyl alcohol to remove it later down the line if need be.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *war4peace*
> 
> Alone it weighs close to nothing. But the cables attached to it would pull it off the double/sided sticky tape.
> I used a zip-tie to anchor mine in place in one machine, and placed it at the bottom on another.


There are tie-down points where I was planning on mounting the Aquaero that might work. I could also MAYBE finagle my cable management in a different way to be able to mount the 6 LT at the bottom of the case where it'll only require sticky pads to secure to make it doesn't shift whenever I move the case. .

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> Yes, up to 4 profiles.
> Also they make the lt 5.25 mounting kit


Unfortunately I don't currently have a 5.25" bay free. I will if I replace one of my HDD's with an SSD, but that's a big expense that I'm not sure I can warrant right now.

4 profiles should be enough. 1 for idle, 2 for gaming, 1 for benchmarking/stress testing.

Thanks everyone.


----------



## Danoupside

What temperature data source is best to use for the pump and fan controllers?

I've got it currently set so that my water temp controls the fan and pump speed, but I noticed during stress testing with Prime95 that the CPU temp (Tdie) will jump very fast but the fans/pumps won't respond for a bit since there is a delay while the water heats up.

I could use the Tdie temp but it can go up and down quickly which meas the pump speed would be constantly changing.

My goal is to have a quiet system when at idle, which is why I'm hoping to have the pumps and fans run at low RPM under light load, and then spin up quickly under heavy load.

I'm sure this is covered online somewhere, but my searches haven't turned anything up yet.


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AngryGoldfish*
> 
> Awesome. Thanks, man. I think I'm going to bite the bullet. I just need to work out how to mount the device without screwing holes in my case. What would be a good way of mounting the Aquaero 6 LT to a vertical flat surface in the back compartment of my case without drilling holes? Would double-sided sticky pads affixed to the standoffs on each corner work? How heavy is the 6 LT?


Some industrial strength Velcro will hold it in place. It can hold a hummer in place, it shouldn't have any issues with holding the 6LT in place.

Link: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00006IC2T/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

It's what I use to hold some of my cable clips in place, It hasn't moved at all and have have 4 Sata cables & four molex cables attached to it. Another clip is holding 18 fan cable extensions.

As you can tell it does a very good job at holding everything in place without moving an inch or falling down.


----------



## Lady Fitzgerald

The problem I've run into with even industrial strength Velcro is the adhesive backing softens with heat and can let got from the surface it is attached to. I would get Velcro that doesn't have an adhesive backing, then use a thin (say, 20 mil) 3M VHB adhesive tape to secure the Velcro. Or, if you are confident you will never, ever need to remove the Aquaero, even for repair, replacement, or to move it to a new case, you _could_ use the VHB tape only (something I do not recommend since you would probably destroy something trying to unstick that stuff).


----------



## AngryGoldfish

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lady Fitzgerald*
> 
> The problem I've run into with even industrial strength Velcro is the adhesive backing softens with heat and can let got from the surface it is attached to. I would get Velcro that doesn't have an adhesive backing, then use a thin (say, 20 mil) 3M VHB adhesive tape to secure the Velcro. Or, if you are confident you will never, ever need to remove the Aquaero, even for repair, replacement, or to move it to a new case, you _could_ use the VHB tape only (something I do not recommend since you would probably destroy something trying to unstick that stuff).


Yeah, I had an issue removing 3M tape from my Darkside LED strip. It's left a nasty residue. It's completely out of sight, but it's definitely there if you look for it.

I think instead of mounting it where it's going to look cool and and be out of the way, but requires a strong adhesive, I'm going to try and install it at the bottom of the case. It'll be a tight squeeze down there as it's where the PSU is and where all the cables will be coming from, as well as where the front panel connectors are, but it mean I wouldn't need to drill/glue/etc. It'll be busy down there, but it might be a fun challenge to cable management. It'll mean simple double-sided tape will suffice.


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lady Fitzgerald*
> 
> The problem I've run into with even industrial strength Velcro is the adhesive backing softens with heat and can let got from the surface it is attached to. I would get Velcro that doesn't have an adhesive backing, then use a thin (say, 20 mil) 3M VHB adhesive tape to secure the Velcro. Or, if you are confident you will never, ever need to remove the Aquaero, even for repair, replacement, or to move it to a new case, you _could_ use the VHB tape only (something I do not recommend since you would probably destroy something trying to unstick that stuff).


I have zero issues with the adhesive with Velcro Industrial brand. It is designed to go all the way up to 120F. I have even attached to devices that produced heat. It remained strong as ever to this day. Velcro does produce an even strong versions of there adhesive that can with stand 150F+. There are many options if you pick Velcro Brand.


----------



## StephanWeber

Greetings to all gurus, and sorry for the long post to follow...

First, the structure: I have an aquaero 6 xt connected via USB to the motherboard, one quad rad and dual rad (six fans) on Fan1, one quad rad (four fans) on Fan2, two Aquacomputer D5 aquabus pumps connected via USB to the motherboard, AND via aquabus to the aquaero (using a ModMyToyz 4 pin splitter for that), connected on "High Flow".

I don't know if it matters, but my rig is built on a Rampage V edition 10, 6850k, psu is a corsair ax1200i, one loop for cpu, one for gpu.



I've finished building my rig, and it was time to fill the loops and test for leaks. It's my first time doing a water cooling rig, so I've tried to read as much as possible about it. No leaks, pumps running, time to install windows and set everything up. When I install Aquasuite (2017-3.1), I get the warning to update aquaero's firmware, and do it. I can see my two pumps as mps devices, also get the warnings for the firmware, and update everything. When I try to use the pumps as aquabus devices... nothing! I've asked on Aquacomputer forum, and this is what I got in reply (and tried):

- Ensure my cables are correct. I've made all aquabus cables (1 to 1 4 pins) and tested all of them with fans, all working. I also did my USB cables using pins 1 to 4 (red, white, green, black). I've modded the pumps to connect to the PSU (on a 6 pin connector, 12V and ground).

- Set all devices to factory default, change the pumps to another device type, change back to D5 pumps, set bus address, save, full shutdown (PSU disconnected from wall for more than 20 seconds), turn on. I've tried with pump1, then pump2, then both together.

All I can get on aquasuite is both pumps as mps devices. Under aquaero tab there are no pumps, and under aquabus tab there's nothing.

Am I missing something? Did I do anything wrong? Anyone with any crazy ideas????


----------



## Mega Man

Ok, for future ref you have it connected to aquabus high. Flow port is a different port ( i know it is because it was recognised by the aquaero the first time)

Assuming you only did what you said

You need to go to the pump under the pump, not the aquaero tab change aquabus address on one pump and priority from usb to aquabus

You can only update the firmware on the pumps via usb fyi


----------



## StephanWeber

Thanks! Yes, you're right, aquabus high!

The pumps are connected via usb, both with firmware updated and pump 1 on address 12, pump 2 on address 13. There is no "set priority to" option on aquasuite 2017-3.1 fyi.


----------



## Mega Man

Hmm.... i don't know then been too busy to update.

Screen shots of aquasuite may help


----------



## StephanWeber

Took these a few days ago. The firmware is 1011 now. All the rest is the same...


----------



## Mega Man

Ok, they should appear under the aquaero, not the mps tab.

Iirc under pumps


----------



## Jubijub

on my setup too the pumps appear as MPS devices, which is not wrong as they are MPS devices.but they should also appear as pumps under the AQ6

Test with just one pump, plugged straight to the AQ6 - Aquabus High port : I couldn't get anything valuable to show until I cleared the issue of Aquabus not being properly recognized. This will allow you to check if your PWM splitter works properly.

it also took 3-4 reboots to get this to work


----------



## Lady Fitzgerald

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *StephanWeber*
> 
> Greetings to all gurus, and sorry for the long post to follow...
> 
> First, the structure: I have an aquaero 6 xt connected via USB to the motherboard, one quad rad and dual rad (six fans) on Fan1, one quad rad (four fans) on Fan2, two Aquacomputer D5 aquabus pumps connected via USB to the motherboard, AND via aquabus to the aquaero (using a ModMyToyz 4 pin splitter for that), connected on "High Flow".
> 
> I don't know if it matters, but my rig is built on a Rampage V edition 10, 6850k, psu is a corsair ax1200i, one loop for cpu, one for gpu.
> 
> 
> 
> I've finished building my rig, and it was time to fill the loops and test for leaks. It's my first time doing a water cooling rig, so I've tried to read as much as possible about it. No leaks, pumps running, time to install windows and set everything up. When I install Aquasuite (2017-3.1), I get the warning to update aquaero's firmware, and do it. I can see my two pumps as mps devices, also get the warnings for the firmware, and update everything. When I try to use the pumps as aquabus devices... nothing! I've asked on Aquacomputer forum, and this is what I got in reply (and tried):
> 
> - Ensure my cables are correct. I've made all aquabus cables (1 to 1 4 pins) and tested all of them with fans, all working. I also did my USB cables using pins 1 to 4 (red, white, green, black). I've modded the pumps to connect to the PSU (on a 6 pin connector, 12V and ground).
> 
> - Set all devices to factory default, change the pumps to another device type, change back to D5 pumps, set bus address, save, full shutdown (PSU disconnected from wall for more than 20 seconds), turn on. I've tried with pump1, then pump2, then both together.
> 
> All I can get on aquasuite is both pumps as mps devices. Under aquaero tab there are no pumps, and under aquabus tab there's nothing.
> 
> Am I missing something? Did I do anything wrong? Anyone with any crazy ideas????


Check your splitter to make sure the rpm lead going to the Aquaero is connected to only one leg of the splitter. ModMyToys is notorious for connecting all the rpm leads together. On every PCB one I had, I had to break the rpm trace between the first and second fan header.


----------



## Leonko

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lady Fitzgerald*
> 
> Check your splitter to make sure the rpm lead going to the Aquaero is connected to only one leg of the splitter. ModMyToys is notorious for connecting all the rpm leads together. On every PCB one I had, I had to break the rpm trace between the first and second fan header.


thats good actually, isnt it ? according to my last conversation with Shoggy about connecting components to aquabus
Quote:


> As splitter I can recommend our Splitty9.
> 
> If you look around for other splitters: make sure that the main connector forwards all pins to all output ports. A splitter for fans - if done right - will only forward the rpm signal of one fan. This would not work for the aquabus because this line will be used for data and must be forwarded to all ports and not just one.


----------



## Lady Fitzgerald

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Leonko*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Lady Fitzgerald*
> 
> Check your splitter to make sure the rpm lead going to the Aquaero is connected to only one leg of the splitter. ModMyToys is notorious for connecting all the rpm leads together. On every PCB one I had, I had to break the rpm trace between the first and second fan header.
> 
> 
> 
> thats good actually, isnt it ? according to my last conversation with Shoggy about connecting components to aquabus
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> As splitter I can recommend our Splitty9.
> 
> If you look around for other splitters: make sure that the main connector forwards all pins to all output ports. A splitter for fans - if done right - will only forward the rpm signal of one fan. This would not work for the aquabus because this line will be used for data and must be forwarded to all ports and not just one.
> 
> Click to expand...
Click to expand...

Point taken.


----------



## Mega Man

correct, it is not used as fans, it is used for data !


----------



## war4peace

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iamjanco*
> 
> You might try playing with the *colors* until you have them the way you want. That said, I suspect wpf (*Windows Presentation Foundation*) was used to build the app (but correct me if I'm mistaken). Colorpicking tools for use with wpf can be found by way of this *link*.
> 
> Edited: you might also try querying AQ to see whether they might be able to provide you with a list of properties currently used in the app, even if they consider the app proprietary themselves. Doesn't hurt to ask.
> 
> Oh, and here's an additional resource about the *XAML Syntax In Detail*, which you might also find of interest.


Sorry for the late reply, I only recently was able to free up some time to try.
I couldn't achieve the functionality I needed; it looks like the controls call custom functions and properties that are not documented.
Here's an example of what I am trying to achieve:


In the image above you can see the titles (a couple surrounded by red rectangles to show you exactly what I am referring to) having the grey background and white text. I want to change that to transparent background (or black background if transparent isn't an option) and text to be green, much like the gauge also visible there.
I found no option in the UI to change that property (of the title bar) and the XML itself offers no insight. There is also no documentation available that I could find.

It's a shame really, with the possibility to make changes existing but being negated by lack of documentation.


----------



## Shoggy

Why even bothering to edit it? Delete the existing one and just add a new. Right click -> add new item -> single value -> select your value -> select your color etc. and that's it. Afterwards you can drag and drop it into the gauge element.


----------



## Leonko

how do you (or what) calculate heat dissipation ?


----------



## jura11

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Leonko*
> 
> how do you (or what) calculate heat dissipation ?


Hi there

You need to have Flow sensor and to use two temperature sensors, usually Water IN and Water OUT or water temperature

This you will find under Power Measurement and Power Consumption in Aquasuite->Sensors

Its pretty easy to setup there

Hope this helps

Thanks, Jura


----------



## jura11

Hi guys

Not sure if someone what Thermal resistance have Aquacomputer sensor these thin or flat

I assume these sensors are 10 kOhm or they're different ones?

As I trying two different types of these thin sensors Phobya and Aquacomputer and seems Phobya do have thermal resistance 10 kOhm and with that sensor my readings are off by 1.5-2°C

Thanks, Jura


----------



## Leonko

awesome, thanks @jura11


----------



## war4peace

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> Why even bothering to edit it? Delete the existing one and just add a new. Right click -> add new item -> single value -> select your value -> select your color etc. and that's it. Afterwards you can drag and drop it into the gauge element.


I'm afraid I may not have expressed what I need in sufficient detail.
If you look at my screenshot below you will notice that the entries on the right side (marked inside the yellow rectangle) are all showing the data source and value, stacked on top of each other. I don't need anything else to be displayed. Those are "Headline only" type items. Those are the only item types which allow me to display both the data source name and the value attached to it in a single line.
The "Single value" item allows me to set the font color BUT doesn't allow me to set a background color or display the data source name. The "Headline Only" allows me to display both the data source name, BUT not to set up the font color and background. So each of these options offers me half of what I need.

The issue boils down to "*how can I set the headline background and font color?*"


----------



## Shoggy

This element that your screenshot shows is just a group of different elements: text element with an assigned data source, sensor value element with an assigned data source and a rectangle that flows behind these two text strings.

You can easily rebuild that yourself and adjust it to your needs.

Right click -> add new item -> singla value (for the sensor value) | name (for the name of a sensor value -> adjust your colors

To get the rectangle you select user defined as new item -> go to the tab display -> select rectangle from the drop down menu and click load preset. This will load the XAML code for the rectangle. The value "fill" is the color of this rectangle and "stroke" is the boarder color. The value is hexadecimal and splits into transparency, red, green and blue. If you seatch for "color picker" in Google you get a nice tool to pick a color. The first two digits are the transparency from 00 to FF. So for example 990055ff would convert into a dark blue with half transparency.

If you want no border around your box you can just delete the values "StrokeThickness" and "Stroke".

Just some examples, took me less than a minute to create these.


----------



## ruffhi

Forget the pretty colors and border stuff ... those HDDs are way too hot. You don't want your HDDs over 40*.


----------



## war4peace

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> This element that your screenshot shows is just a group of different elements: text element with an assigned data source, sensor value element with an assigned data source and a rectangle that flows behind these two text strings.
> 
> You can easily rebuild that yourself and adjust it to your needs.
> 
> Right click -> add new item -> singla value (for the sensor value) | name (for the name of a sensor value -> adjust your colors
> 
> To get the rectangle you select user defined as new item -> go to the tab display -> select rectangle from the drop down menu and click load preset. This will load the XAML code for the rectangle. The value "fill" is the color of this rectangle and "stroke" is the boarder color. The value is hexadecimal and splits into transparency, red, green and blue. If you seatch for "color picker" in Google you get a nice tool to pick a color. The first two digits are the transparency from 00 to FF. So for example 990055ff would convert into a dark blue with half transparency.
> 
> If you want no border around your box you can just delete the values "StrokeThickness" and "Stroke".
> 
> Just some examples, took me less than a minute to create these.


Thank you, that looks exactly like what I needed to have. I'm at work now but will check and implement when I get home. I don't need a color picker, I know those bloody hex color values by heart







and already figured out the transparency part.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ruffhi*
> 
> Forget the pretty colors and border stuff ... those HDDs are way too hot. You don't want your HDDs over 40*.


Yeah I know, the disadvantage of using the Thermaltake Core X5 with the HDD cage located above the PSU in a corner where no airflow was ever recorded. I will get a HP Gen8 Microserver soon and move those pesky HDDs out. Until then, they can stay hot, everything residing on them that's worth keeping is backed up anyway. But good catch


----------



## BatteryKing

I came across a couple of issues I had to work around for doing a first time setup of an Aquaero 6 XT:
1. The pressure based flow sensor on my loop (53131) with 12 and 13mm inner diameter tubing was getting really low and not too stable pressure readings. I tried both the 400 l/h and 200 l/h sensor to no avail. I ended up picking up a Koolance INS-FM14 and frequency adapter and so now I can see flow with mL/m converted to RPMs on a fan header. One thing I am doing is throttling back my D5 pump for quiet operation and then using the Aquaero 6 XT to adjust for any situation where more speed is needed via monitoring how hot the water is before entering the rad. I got it so the Koolance INS-FM14 measured ~2 l/m and calibrated the Aquacomputing sensor to get a measurement at this and even below, but at some point it looks like an air bubble shifted and so this idle flow dipped to zero only on the pressure based sensor. I ended up taking the pressure based flow sensor out of the loop as this is just too unreliable of a reading for my usage pattern so I am only using the Koolance flow sensor now.

2. For the "emergency shutdown" feature using the Aquaero 6 XT relay, I ran into a little snag that I had to work around. Specifically I could setup conditions for an emergency shutdown and those would trigger, however with the relay place in line with pin 16 (Power_On) on the ATX power connector in such a manner to break the otherwise normally connected circuit to power off the computer in an "emergency" situation, the computer would only stay off for a few seconds and then power itself back on after the relay reset immediately after power off. My previous motherboard had a BIOS option to set it to stay off in this circumstance, but my new motherboard just wants to come back up soon after the relay closes. However that old motherboard failed, so no going back. I ended up wiring up a 5V latching toggle relay which emulates the latching function with a flip flop and this relay is wired directly to the power supply using standby power on pin 9 to power it. Then I moved the Aquaero relay pin 1 to pin 2 in order to be on the normally open side and wired this into the toggle 'button' input on the latching relay. As the JK flip flop halves the frequency of the relay input from the Aquaero 6 XT, this successfully shut off the computer, leaving it off until either I hit the power switch on the power supply or hit the toggle button directly on the latching relay. I suppose the other way to go about this is to hook up to the power switch to the motherboard, but I feel a bit more confident about directly interrupting pin 16 on the ATX power connector, plus this is instant.


----------



## Mega Man

fyi. you could of made the relay use the COM/NO contacts until power up, add a second switch to bypass the relay and at power on it switches the relay on, then you can release the bypass switch probably cheaper next time


----------



## BatteryKing

The latching toggle relay I picked up cost just a few $. A small $ sum and some soldering for transparent operation and a solid connection. Also it has a built in button so if I am working on the machine after it trips, I can press the button on it for instant reset instead of waiting for the power supply capacitor to discharge in order to reset. To see exactly what I am talking about, look up:
HiLetgo 1 Channel 5V Latching Relay Module with Touch Bistable Switch

I did consider what you said before doing this, but my current solution is rather transparent while your suggestion of having to hold down another button to bypass so I can use the NO pin on the Aquaero relay would be rather annoying. Also where would I put that other button? My current setup has everything contained inside the case as no extra buttons are really necessary. I suppose if one wanted to be really fancy, you could tap into the reset switch if you have one in order to reset this without popping the the hood and without reaching behind the machine for the master power switch, but the whole point of this is something goes wrong inside and you will probably have to pop the hood to figure out why before resetting.


----------



## Mega Man

That's fine, i am glad you like the way out came out, i know what a latching relay does as long as it works for you


----------



## jsutter71

I felt a disturbance in the force after upgrading to the newest firmware and it seems to be consistent. My high flow USB is displaying a faster flow rate then before. Not a huge difference but enough to catch my attention. Previously I averaged 2.8 LPM and now I average 3.1 LPM. Odd yes????


----------



## dracotonisamond

i just upgraded from aquasuite 2017-2 to 2017-3.1 and my high flow usb sensor stopped being detected over auqabus.
ive tried cycling the power, aquabus and usb connections, updating the sensor firmware over usb, and restarting the computer.

any ideas?
it works over usb still so as far as i can tell its just aquabus detection.

EDIT
and now its working?
reverted to factory defaults on the mps and unplugged it and it started working.


----------



## Revan654

One Quick Question: I know there no clear advantage of having both USB & 4-pin Aquabus cable attached. Is there any disadvantage?


----------



## GTXJackBauer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> One Quick Question: I know there no clear advantage of having both USB & 4-pin Aquabus cable attached. Is there any disadvantage?


The advantage of having both is picking which side you like with the said options since both sides aren't the same in some instances. One of my main reasons of having both connected is for firmware updates so to answer your question, you'd have less options in some instances and a pain for firmware upgrade if you're only on a Aquabus connection. It doesn't hurt to have both connected at all times unless you're limited on how many USB connections you have.


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GTXJackBauer*
> 
> The advantage of having both is picking which side you like with the said options since both sides aren't the same in some instances. One of my main reasons of having both connected is for firmware updates so to answer your question, you'd have less options in some instances and a pain for firmware upgrade if you're only on a Aquabus connection. It doesn't hurt to have both connected at all times unless you're limited on how many USB connections you have.


I originally only had the 3-pin version + USB, I switched them out to 4-pin + USB. I always planned to have the USB connection to all the devices. I have two Hubby7 connected, so USB is not an issue.

I was just wondering if there was any drawback to have 4-pin with USB vs 3-pin with USB.


----------



## Mega Man

No, there is none


----------



## tomsonx1983

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BatteryKing*
> 
> The latching toggle relay I picked up cost just a few $. A small $ sum and some soldering for transparent operation and a solid connection. Also it has a built in button so if I am working on the machine after it trips, I can press the button on it for instant reset instead of waiting for the power supply capacitor to discharge in order to reset. To see exactly what I am talking about, look up:
> HiLetgo 1 Channel 5V Latching Relay Module with Touch Bistable Switch
> 
> I did consider what you said before doing this, but my current solution is rather transparent while your suggestion of having to hold down another button to bypass so I can use the NO pin on the Aquaero relay would be rather annoying. Also where would I put that other button? My current setup has everything contained inside the case as no extra buttons are really necessary. I suppose if one wanted to be really fancy, you could tap into the reset switch if you have one in order to reset this without popping the the hood and without reaching behind the machine for the master power switch, but the whole point of this is something goes wrong inside and you will probably have to pop the hood to figure out why before resetting.


I got exactly same problem, even when my mobo has function to stay off after power fail


----------



## ProRules

Is this the right thread to post Aquacomputer related?


----------



## GTXJackBauer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ProRules*
> 
> Is this the right thread to post Aquacomputer related?


Aquaero related, yes.


----------



## AshBorer

Hi, i'm not water cooling (only air) but I'm looking around for a device that will let me control my 4 case fans based on both CPU and GPU temperature, whichever happens to be higher. Because sometimes only my GPU is under load and my PWM case fans - being tied to CPU temp only - do not respond, leaving my GPU starved of air.

I was recommended the Aquaero 5 or 6. Considering the aquaero 5 & 6 also include tons of useful things for watercooling would it be overkill for what I want to do, and is there a stripped down controller that just lets me adjust fans (aquacomputer or not)? If not, that's ok I'm not afraid to spend the $$.

Also after looking at some guide videos on it, i would not be using temperature probes, i would just be using HWinfo or Aida64 to track my GPU tempearture. If i set the device to source GPU temp info from one of the aformentioned programs, would i have to start those programs before the fan curve would work? I assume i would, in that case i would just set the program automatically to run on startup. I suppose it would be plausable to put the probe on the die, but would that not interfere with thermal transfer? IDK im just spitballin here lol


----------



## Mega Man

The aquaero 6 lt would fit the bill.

I am not sure of others that would, , it can use highest of any 2-3 sensors.

You have to run that monitoring program first, to be able to pull that temp into aquaero, although the newest aquasuite has a basic monitoring program built in. It is possible you no longer have to run an additional program


----------



## AshBorer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> The aquaero 6 lt would fit the bill.
> 
> I am not sure of others that would, , it can use highest of any 2-3 sensors.
> 
> You have to run that monitoring program first, to be able to pull that temp into aquaero, although the newest aquasuite has a basic monitoring program built in. It is possible you no longer have to run an additional program


Thanks for the quick reply. One other question - is it true that i should buy a small heatsink to stick onto it?

edit: i found the passive one that aquacomputer sells, i guess ill get that one


----------



## Mega Man

no, dont buy the small heatsink

make sure to ONLY buy the 6lt --- NOT the 5, the 6 lt *does not need* a heat sink, if you do , buy this one ( in red or black )

https://shop.aquacomputer.de/product_info.php?language=en&products_id=3153

http://shop.aquacomputer.de/product_info.php?products_id=3175&language=en


----------



## AshBorer

OK, I was planning to get the 6. Thus, I will not buy the heat sink. Thank you for the help.


----------



## bern43

Picked up a Dr. Drop. It mentions the loop has to be drained before using it. How crucial is this? My drain port spot doesn't allow for my loop to ever be completely drained.


----------



## Mega Man

Depending on a leak, it may cause fluid to leak.

Usually it is used at the beginning of the build.

Does it have to be completely emptied, no, are there more risks involved that way, that you have to accept, yes


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bern43*
> 
> Picked up a Dr. Drop. It mentions the loop has to be drained before using it. How crucial is this? My drain port spot doesn't allow for my loop to ever be completely drained.


The concept is that you don't want to get fluid in the tester, and perhaps more importantly, you don't want to have any air pressure blast fluid out and make a mess.

Keeping those goals in mind as you connect the tester and apply pressure, you'll be fine if you can't drain completely, but let off the pressure via your drain and keep the tester elevated so that gravity doesn't try to drain fluid to it.


----------



## war4peace

It's recommended to drain the loop as much as possible, because if you have liquid in an area which is not fully sealed and you pressurize it, if the small crack becomes wider the liquid would squirt out of there and make a mess. If there's no liquid, the air would still escape but not make a mess in your PC.
However, if you're comfortable with that kind of risk, you can go ahead and try it anyway.


----------



## Cozmo85

Decided to update today. Now aquabus does not appear to work at all.

Software version is 2017-3.1

Updated firmware for both my d5 usb pump and my aquaero 6

D5 is on firmware 1011

Aquaero 6 is on firmware 2011

Have completed powered down machine including pulling power cable

I can change settings on the pump when its connected via usb but it is not detected by the aquaero at all via aquabus

Have reset factory defaults on the pump to no avail. Have tried changing the aquabus address but it does not help.

Using a 3 pin aquacomputer cable going from the aquabus connection on the pump to the High connection on the aquaero 6

Can anyone help? Seems this firmware has borked something and you cant even reflash it.


----------



## Juris

Just awaiting delivery of my Aquaero 6 XT and wondering is it possible to flip the display orientation 180. I need to separate the display from the main body of the XT in order to fit it into my In Win 909 in front of my PSU. User Cenedd over on the Overclockers UK forum managed to separate the two and run jumper leads to get it working https://forums.overclockers.co.uk/threads/project-silent-overkill.18720102/page-4. (see post 79)

Unfortunately the display to body connector is on the left of the XT's rear rather than where I need it on the right to go around the edge of the PSU. If I could flip the display I can get it to fit. Cheers.


----------



## Mega Man

Not that I an aware of.


----------



## Juris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> Not that I an aware of.


Dammit. That makes things a bit trickier. Seems odd considering its such a powerful bit of kit it can't flip a display but sure you can't have it all I guess. Will scratch my brain some more to find a way to make it fit. Cheers.


----------



## Mega Man

Derete


----------



## ruffhi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> You can easily rebuild that yourself and adjust it to your needs.
> 
> Right click -> add new item -> singla value (for the sensor value) | name (for the name of a sensor value -> adjust your colors
> 
> To get the rectangle you select user defined as new item -> go to the tab display -> select rectangle from the drop down menu and click load preset. This will load the XAML code for the rectangle. The value "fill" is the color of this rectangle and "stroke" is the boarder color. The value is hexadecimal and splits into transparency, red, green and blue. If you seatch for "color picker" in Google you get a nice tool to pick a color. The first two digits are the transparency from 00 to FF. So for example 990055ff would convert into a dark blue with half transparency.
> 
> Just some examples, took me less than a minute to create these.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Thanks for the walk through. I've been playing around with this as the stuff that I display to my desktop has a 'white text on black background' theme (see picture).


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!




The time, weather and computer stats are provided by rainmeter.



As you can see, I managed to change the background of the sensors to a black border and a #444444 / Black blend. However, I can't change the 'green / gray' background, the font or size of the text on the 'header'. I know I can recreate that item with a 1) background, 2) text and 3) value ... but that just seems a little hard. Can you open up the header of that item to html?

Also ... is it possible to group items so they are easier to move?


----------



## Shoggy

If you double click these items in the editing mode and go the tab display (with the code editor) you should get access to the XAML code. You could also import a new page. Select the file "PageTemplates.page". It contains some basic templates that you can edit through the mentioned display tab.

Unfortunately it is not possible to group different elements. The only way would be to merge their XAML codes manually into a new custom element.


----------



## ruffhi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> If you double click these items in the editing mode and go the tab display (with the code editor) you should get access to the XAML code.


Nope. That didn't seem to give me access to the XAML code ...
(Note that I haven't yet updated my system to the very latest version - I am using 2017-1.3).


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!






Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> You could also import a new page. Select the file "PageTemplates.page". It contains some basic templates that you can edit through the mentioned display tab.


I couldn't find the PageTemplates.page file ... I am running a search to see if it is somewhere else.

I did play with some other *.page files and could change some colors - but it didn't appear that I could change anything that I couldn't change via the interface. Editing the *.page file is a quick way for global changes - thx for the tip.

BTW - what is the code (or name) for the color I am trying the change (the background of the header on the chart)?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> Unfortunately it is not possible to group different elements. The only way would be to merge their XAML codes manually into a new custom element.


Bummer - oh well.


----------



## Shoggy

You won't find the template page file if you are using an older aquasuite version









The green bar of this template can not be changed. It is hard-coded in the internals of the aquasuite. When using the current aquasuite you could remove the background from the chart element in the template page and only use the pure chart.


----------



## vvv850

I don't know if this has been discussed yet.

I updated to version 2017-3.1 and noticed that when I'm making changes to the Farbwerk unit, the save button does not appear. For example, I turn of the lights at night and if I power off my PC and disconnect it from the mains, then after power up the lights will be turned on.

In the previous version I had the ability to save the settings to counteract this behavior.

Thanks


----------



## AshBorer

what are the dimensions of the aquaero 6 LT?


----------



## Barefooter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AshBorer*
> 
> what are the dimensions of the aquaero 6 LT?


Here you go.
144 mm x 42 mm x 22 mm

http://aquacomputer.de/tl_files/aquacomputer/downloads/manuals/aquaero_5_6_en_2016_10_14.pdf


----------



## 88Gamer88

I'm thinking about the 6 LT, do i get the last software automatic ?
Or the old 2016 software ?


----------



## Mega Man

Iirc you get on new devices this year, maybe next year


----------



## ruffhi

I just updated my software to 2017-3.1 and that seemed to go smoothly. It gives you a bit of a shock when everything lights off at max (fans, pumps, etc) but that is reset once you reload your profile (the system backs it up before the update).

Once I had updated my software, I had to reset / update the firmware ... no problem there.

However, I am not getting anything from my 'Aquacomputer flow rate sensor (high flow USB)' - it isn't connected via USB ... so I am assuming I have to connect it to the motherboard and update its firmware - is that right?


----------



## GTXJackBauer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ruffhi*
> 
> However, I am not getting anything from my 'Aquacomputer flow rate sensor (high flow USB)' - it isn't connected via USB ... so I am assuming I have to connect it to the motherboard and update its firmware - is that right?


Yes, that's correct.


----------



## ruffhi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GTXJackBauer*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *ruffhi*
> 
> However, I am not getting anything from my 'Aquacomputer flow rate sensor (high flow USB)' - it isn't connected via USB ... so I am assuming I have to connect it to the motherboard and update its firmware - is that right?
> 
> 
> 
> Yes, that's correct.
Click to expand...

Thanks ... amazon to the rescue.


----------



## Juris

Just delving into what shiny bits I can add to my forthcoming Aquaero 6XT and was looking to measure liquid temps, flow rate and pressure (I'm thinking this will be beneficial in spotting leaks and getting an alarm?). Am I right in thinking I can use an MPS Flow to do all three things? If so can it do all this at the same time or will I need to decide which role it will perform.


----------



## Mega Man

no, there is no inline temp sensor on the mps iirc,


----------



## Juris

Thanks for the info Megaman. Not to worry I'll add a separate g/14 sensor.

I'm clutching at straws trying to get the MPS Flow into my system. I don't have the minimum stated requirement of 50mm of straight tubing before and after the position I want the sensor to reside. I was hoping to attach the MPS's inlet to the outlet port of my VPP755 pump with a 5mm m/m fitting. Obviously the internal flow to the outlet port on the pump isn't straight but wondering if it will see less turbulence than a 90 degree fitting.

The most I can stretch on the outlet side of the MPS is about 25mm before it hits a 3 way T fitting with one side going to the drain port and the other running back to the loop.

I'm screwed aren't I?


----------



## Mega Man

Iirc, you have to remember, that is only for accuracy. It should still function enough, for telling you that there is or isnt flow. For real accuracy, you have to calibrate it to your loop anyway.

If I am wrong others will say


----------



## Bartdude

The MPS does have an internal temp sensor (not sure how accurate it is) and a connection for an external temp. You can also get a pressure reading from the data.
I finally updated to the newest version of Aquaero without any glitches, didn't even have to pull the power! I have everything connected by both USB and Aquabus.


----------



## BatteryKing

I have both the 200 lph and 400 lph MPS sensors. My experience is these are grossly inaccurate for flow, temp, and pressure. For a more detailed analysis:

1. Flow - I attached this between the heat producing components and the radiator as I had a reasonably good place to stick this (or so it seemed). Using a Koolance impeller based flow sensor I came across things such as at full pump speed the best included calibration file gave me something like 2.1 lpm for the 400 lph MPS sensor and 1.4 lpm for the 200 lph MPS sensor while the Koolance sensor, which reviews claim is dead accurate, showed 8 lpm. That is pretty far off. Also both MPS sensors with stock calibration at best stop measuring around 3 lpm according to the Koolance sensor. That is a bit high if you are looking for silent operation, or at least near silent idle operation and is way far off from what the specifications say. Using the Koolance sensor as a calibration source I did get the 200 lph MPS sensor to show all the way down to 2 lpm, which is better for quiet operation, however with a shift in air bubbles in the loop (it is hard to work that out, especially when you keep draining the loop to dork around with these sensors) that 2 lpm measurement dropped to 0 lpm two weeks after initial calibration with the raw computed value being something like -1 when before it was more like 17. Ramping up to 100% on the pump got the number to go positive and once again be fairly close to the previous custom calibrated values as now the raw number was something more like 300. My conclusion is if you plan to slow the pump down at any point for quieter operation, don't use the MPS flow sensor. Use the Koolance sensor along with its frequency converter adapter which will output milliliters per minute in an RPM value so you have something intelligible to look at as long as you can see the value with whatever you plugged it into.

2. Temperature - As I read the MPS sensor is inaccurate in terms of temperature, I picked up a separate inline temperature sensor and used the MPS as a temperature sensor station as the thermostat cable is not long enough to make it back to the Aquaero 6 XT controller for where I have the MPS sensor plugged into. I can connect the MPS sensor back as a standard 3 pin fan extension cable can be used to extend an Aquabus cable. What I saw with this arrangement was the internal MPS temp sensor would often stabilize +-2C offset from the 'external' sensor I had plugged in and had literally right next to the MPS in the water loop. The internal sensor was also very slow to see change in temperature when I suddenly added and removed heat load as in it took several minutes to start shifting while the external sensor was roughly in line with what I expected to see as in it shifted its value in less than a minute before and after. So especially if you need a temperature reading to control pump speed based on how hot the water is from heat producing components, don't use the MPS sensor as its response time is unacceptably slow and inaccurate.

3. Pressure reading - I did see an mbar graph in the software. At one point in time it consistently showed 0.1 mbar. After a while it would only show 0 mbar no matter what. While the MPS is a pressure sensor and you can see changing pressure values in the raw data, there does not seem to be a way to get this to be a useful pressure value. If you want to monitor for possible leaks, it would seem best to get a fill level sensor for your reservoir as in you may just be buying a whole new reservoir with one of these at the bottom. At this you would want to allow some amount of change to slide both because maybe the sensor is not completely accurate and it is rather difficult to work out all of the air bubbles no matter how much you shift around the computer while the pump is at 100% throttle. Instead a lot of these smaller bubbles that persisted after some de-bubbling efforts will slowly end up shifting to the reservoir or at least some high point in your water loop if the flow rate is low enough. As the reservoir should have the slowest moving fluid, it should be a natural collection point of air at least in a fast flowing loop. For rate of air bubble transfer to the reservoir, it may still be happening after a few thousand hours of run time, especially if you throttle back the pump for quiet operation. In summary, don't use the MPS for this, but instead maybe use a specialized reservoir with a built in fill sensor and look for a sufficiently large shift in fill level to suggest a leak, not a small shift.

One extra note I would add for this is there is a fan controller that also has a temperature sensor port. If say you have separate chamber for your radiator at the bottom of your case as I do, this would probably do you much better than the MPS sensor as you could use this to say drive a fan hub for you radiator fans and then use extension cables for signaling back to the Aquaero 6 XT. I am using a PWM signaling based fan hub which sends back the tach signal for one fan and replicates the PWM signal for all fans. I deem this good enough as all fans on my rad are identical, so only having the tach signal for one probably represents the others pretty well. Anyways if one fan fails, with multiple fans on the rad in a push / pull configuration there is enough redundancy.


----------



## Ashcroft

In my and others testing of the MPS flow meters they were far closer to accurate with the standard calibration than that. From memory it was correct to whole litres at least. With a custom calibration to suit your fittings and loop they can be very accurate.

The temp sensor built in is not in direct contact with coolant so yes it's not very accurate at all.

As for pressure, they aren't really designed for that. They use a differential sensor connected to two ports separated only by an orifice. As such there will only be a reading when there is a difference in pressure caused by coolant flow. It is not an absolute pressure sensor.
The fill level sensors use the same type of sensor but they have ports to measure differential from two remote points or from loop Vs ambient. As such they can measure pressure at the bottom of a Res and provide fill level data with or without flow.

The MPS sensors can be difficult to set up but once done right they have worked great for me for years. I can't explain why your results would be so different besides incorrect setup in some way.


----------



## Costas

^^^ Looks like Ashcroft beat me to it....








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BatteryKing*
> 
> I have both the 200 lph and 400 lph MPS sensors. My experience is these are grossly inaccurate for flow, temp, and pressure.


There are actually some of us who have actually compared these sensors against higher quality rotameters and found that they are actually very accurate and definitely not 'grossly inaccurate for flow' as you claim. http://www.overclock.net/t/1501978/ocn-community-water-cooling-test-thread

You really need to test these devices against higher quality devices rather than simply comparing it to a Koolance flowmeter which is itself an un-calibrated entity.

For temp sensing, they are indeed poor as you state due to the temperate sensing element not being in contact with the coolant. So I would not recommend them for sensing coolant temp - However for accurate flow measurement they cannot be beat.

I actually compare my MPS400's accuracy daily against a rotameter which I installed into my system.

The two devices read the same day in day out and have been running in my system for way over a year now.

There are a few variables to be mindful when using these flow sensors but when installed correctly and calibrated against a known source, they work extremely well.

Rotameter and MPS400 installation in my current system:





Playing around with calibration tables:


----------



## BatteryKing

I looked over some of this stuff and it looks like there may be a combination of things going on. Here are some bits of info that might be relevant:

1. Some of the pics clearly show the MPS sensor directly in front of the pump. I put my sensor in-between the heat producing components and the rad. As adding the sensor was an afterthought, I would need to modify my case some more in order to fit sensor in right after the pump. I would think having the sensor immediately after the pump would be bad though as I would think that would be a rather turbulent place to put the sensor, making it unhappy.

2. Also as this sensor was an afterthought, while I was able to find a spot with a nice long straight section on the inlet side with 12mm ID hardline tubing and a fitting to pass between chambers right in front, the best I could do for the outlet side was a 45 degree curved EKWB fitting and then 13mm ID flexible tubing as I use flexible tubing on the back side and hard line tubing for the main chamber. I could redo it so there is a straight section on ether side of the sensor, but there would not be very much straight without extensive modification.

3. As I am using wider 12mm ID hard line tubing and 13mm ID soft tubing, I looked at one of the linked charts for wider diameter tubing for the 400 lph MPS sensor and if I did the conversions right (as it showed in gallons, not liters) the minimum accurate readings started around 3 lpm. This is basically what I originally stated. While the pictures posted above look to also be 12mm ID tubing, I am wondering if this sensor gets a bit touchier about what it will measure at the lower end depending on the tubing size. So maybe having good straight sections on either side along with some other factors is enough to make this sensor happy with wider tubing at lower rates while a less attentive / knowledgeable about essential detail to make this sensor happy tends to cause bad results? It looks like the smaller diameter tubing graphs I glanced at had better numbers on the lower end of the scale, which is where my trouble spot was. I am interested in less than 3 lpm because I can hear the pump noise at this rate and at least at idle the temp sensors on either side of the rad are showing only a small increase in water temp at the lower flow rates I am targeting. Why make your pump noisy just to get a usable reading from a flow sensor and for no other reason at all?

4. I also placed the MPS sensor vertical with the inlet side up. Is it best to have this flat or near level? The pic above shows the sensor at a slight angle when mounted in the case.

5. For the Koolance sensor, I know it is not a calibrated source, it is just some people were calling it accurate. When filling the loop, just before coolant makes it back into the reservoir, the general sense I got from watching the reservoir empty (which is a known capacity) while the pump sounded like it just got up to max speed is the pump is moving the coolant in the general ballpark of 8 lpm. So while the sensor may not be calibrated at least one data point seemed generally right out of the box without spending the $$ on a calibrated sensor nor time screwing with calibration curves and trying to get a good zero flow rate calibration point without potentially cooking the hardware being cooled.

6. Maybe another way to look at this (and tell me if I am wrong) is the MPS sensor can be a great sensor if you carefully consider all of the variables that may mess it up ahead of time, pick up the right sensor for your loop, have a good calibration source, spend a great deal of time carefully setting it up, etc. However if you want something that just works out of the box and won't be particularly troublesome at detecting flow at quieter pump speeds or at least not have mileage may very wildly between different setups, you might consider a Koolance sensor. Granted the Koolance sensor has a moving part in the line of flow, it seems there is the question of how much trouble can it end up being to get rid of that moving part while still getting a descent reading? I am thinking more of must have the best possible reading vs. having something good enough to generally gauge how your cooling loop is performing without much effort? If the Koolance impeller jams, well just do what I did and hook up the Aquaero relay. (For the relay, I actually added a second latching relay which is documented in a different post.) This way either a water loop failure or a broken sensor will stop the computer, which is still what you want.


----------



## war4peace

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Costas*
> 
> ^^^ Looks like Ashcroft beat me to it....
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There are actually some of us who have actually compared these sensors against higher quality rotameters and found that they are actually very accurate and definitely not 'grossly inaccurate for flow' as you claim. http://www.overclock.net/t/1501978/ocn-community-water-cooling-test-thread
> 
> You really need to test these devices against higher quality devices rather than simply comparing it to a Koolance flowmeter which is itself an un-calibrated entity.
> 
> For temp sensing, they are indeed poor as you state due to the temperate sensing element not being in contact with the coolant. So I would not recommend them for sensing coolant temp - However for accurate flow measurement they cannot be beat.
> 
> I actually compare my MPS400's accuracy daily against a rotameter which I installed into my system.
> 
> The two devices read the same day in day out and have been running in my system for way over a year now.
> 
> There are a few variables to be mindful when using these flow sensors but when installed correctly and calibrated against a known source, they work extremely well.
> 
> Rotameter and MPS400 installation in my current system:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Playing around with calibration tables:


Unrelated but I have to ask: are those analogue flow measurement instruments usable for opaque liquids, such as Mayhems Pastel White? Namely: can you see the little floating weight? I'd like to add the LZH D-15 to my build but not sure if it would make sense with Pastel White.
Thanks!


----------



## Ashcroft

The Factory rating for the MPS 400 is readings from 80 to 400 LPH or a bit over 1.2LPM to 6.5ishLPM. With my custom calibration for 10mmID hard tube I get from about 1.2 to 6LPM which is lower than the lowest flow my pump will generate (about 1.6LPM) to well over the max the pump will generate. From memory the 200 model halves the min flow to 40L/H.

Confirmed with my King rotameter I get nice accurate and consistent measurements from the MPS sensor across that whole range. I can't understand why one would bottom out as high as 3L/min. Fast Fates 1/2"ID tube calibration started at 0.4GPM because that's as low as his particular rotameter would read I'm pretty sure. That's 1.5L/min



The MPS sensors, like all the Aquacomp meters were designed with Euro style low flow water cooling in mind. Thats why they released the 100L/h model where most American sites refer to a 3.8L/min 'ideal' flow rate. Euro style sees over 100L/h as overkill and 60-80L/h as perfectly good.

Installing the sensor vertically will of course mean there is always a pressure differential between the port towards the top and the lower one which would mimic a flow reading. For this reason the sensor software auto zeros and can set that difference as zero flow. So Its not ideal but I don't think its a big issue. I have mine installed flat just because that was easiest.
They do say not to have angles too close to the sensor but I would be amazed if it alone was causing what you are seeing.


----------



## Costas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *war4peace*
> 
> Unrelated but I have to ask: are those analogue flow measurement instruments usable for opaque liquids, such as Mayhems Pastel White? Namely: can you see the little floating weight? I'd like to add the LZH D-15 to my build but not sure if it would make sense with Pastel White.
> Thanks!


I reckon you may be out of luck with an opaque fluid. Although the metal float sits close to the edge of the acrylic when its down at the bottom of the scale, as it moves upwards the clearance increases thereby allowing more and more fluid to flow around the float.

At some point you would lose visibility of the float.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BatteryKing*
> 
> 1. Some of the pics clearly show the MPS sensor directly in front of the pump. I put my sensor in-between the heat producing components and the rad. As adding the sensor was an afterthought, I would need to modify my case some more in order to fit sensor in right after the pump. I would think having the sensor immediately after the pump would be bad though as I would think that would be a rather turbulent place to put the sensor, making it unhappy.


When I was performing various testing and the like I found the MPS flow meter most sensitive to pressure variations on the output side of the flow meter. Generally I would positioning it closer to the output side of a pump rather than the inlet.

In most cases though it should not make too much difference if you have a nice straight stretch of tubing on either side of the flow meter.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BatteryKing*
> 
> 3. As I am using wider 12mm ID hard line tubing and 13mm ID soft tubing, I looked at one of the linked charts for wider diameter tubing for the 400 lph MPS sensor and if I did the conversions right (as it showed in gallons, not liters) the minimum accurate readings started around 3 lpm. This is basically what I originally stated. While the pictures posted above look to also be 12mm ID tubing, I am wondering if this sensor gets a bit touchier about what it will measure at the lower end depending on the tubing size. So maybe having good straight sections on either side along with some other factors is enough to make this sensor happy with wider tubing at lower rates while a less attentive / knowledgeable about essential detail to make this sensor happy tends to cause bad results? It looks like the smaller diameter tubing graphs I glanced at had better numbers on the lower end of the scale, which is where my trouble spot was. I am interested in less than 3 lpm because I can hear the pump noise at this rate and at least at idle the temp sensors on either side of the rad are showing only a small increase in water temp at the lower flow rates I am targeting. Why make your pump noisy just to get a usable reading from a flow sensor and for no other reason at all?


I use 12mm ID tubing. You can actually offset/skew the calibration curve on the MPS devices so that they read more accurately at the lower end of their range.

I specifically did this with my MPS400 flow sensor so that my accurate measurement range extended from 0.4 GPM (approx 1.5 LPM) up to 1.8 GPM (Just under 7 LPM).

Read here for my calibration curve XML file for 12mm ID tubing.

http://www.overclock.net/t/1501978/ocn-community-water-cooling-test-thread/460#post_23914548

If you really wanted to concentrate at the low end then I would recommend the MPS200 sensor.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BatteryKing*
> 
> 4. I also placed the MPS sensor vertical with the inlet side up. Is it best to have this flat or near level? The pic above shows the sensor at a slight angle when mounted in the case.


It will not matter IF you set the sensor to Auto ZERO every time the Aquaero unit is switched on and there is zero flow in the system.

It is important that this option is enabled and also to have the Ability for the Aquaero to stay powered up but without your pump(s) running. Usually this is the case when your PC is shutdown but standby power is still powering up the Aquaero.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BatteryKing*
> 
> However if you want something that just works out of the box


One of the better flow sensors which has great linearity out of the box is the Aquaero mechanical flow meter sensor. I have also used these in the past with great results although at higher flow rates (> 1.5GPM) they can produce a mechanical ticking sound which can be annoying to some.

https://shop.aquacomputer.de/product_info.php?products_id=2294

USB variant: https://shop.aquacomputer.de/product_info.php?products_id=2897

Some pertinent testing info on this sensor - carried out by Martin (Liquid Labs) back a few years ago: https://martinsliquidlab.wordpress.com/2012/01/21/aquacomputer-water-high-flow-sensor-meter/


----------



## BatteryKing

Thanks for the info. I will have to try some of these. There are a couple of things I have already done, but not quite to success. There is a basic challenge with the system I have this on in that it is a Linux workstation of sorts that is usually always on and doing a number of different things. Plus it has a RAID controller in it that does not support sleep in the drivers, though I plan on getting off of that controller in the not too distant future. A secondary factor is I needed a way to monitor the new RAID controller I have sitting around as that thing has proven to be hot running, so I added a fan and I want to use the Aquaero 6 to both monitor its temperature through a probe, adjust the fan speed to be as quiet as possible while still cooling the new RAID controller, and shut down the system in case the fan breaks and the card gets too hot. I am controlling the Aquaero 6 through a Windows VM (Windows in a bottle where it belongs ). Actually the main motivating factor to set this up is to have an extra monitoring system as Linux hardware monitoring is not the greatest that can also automatically shut down the system in case things go wrong while I am away from the machine. My dedicated Windows box is only on when I am at the machine, so I am not quite as concerned about its water loop, though as I learn more about what the Aquaero 6 can do, it is starting to get tempting. So with this in mind:

1. Can't do the sleep and auto calibrate as the system is incapable of sleeping right now.

2. I did build a curve based off of the Koolance sensor data and it was right for about 2 weeks of continuous operation, but then drifted down to 0 for its differential value when at slower pump speeds. As I was using this flow data to trigger the relay, the system shutoff due to the erroneous sensor reading. Speeding up the pump to a noisy level got it back solidly into the positive, but I did not want noisy just to more reliably get the MPS sensor to work.

3. To get the initial zero point, I stopped all CPU intensive tasks and then briefly unplugged the pump and hit the calibration button in the software. With my particular situation I could not seem to get this to happen another way. Maybe once I get that old RAID controller swapped out I might have better luck.


----------



## Juris

Just got my Aquaero 6 XT and have begun the process of destroying my bank balance buying things to go with it. I'm running a VPP755 pump with a max stated flow rate of 350lph so am I right in choosing the MPS Flow 400. Looks like the right choice looking at Aquacomputers site but just confirming. Also is there anything else I need to buy from AC to get the full functionality of the MPS Flow and connect it to the 6 XT (I have an AC temp sensor already in the Aquatuning basket). Any additional cables or gadgets etc?

Also wondering is it a good idea to get the passive heatsink. I know from reading here the 6 has much better thermals than the 5 but I'm placing the 6 behind the motherboard tray where it will get little or no airflow from fans (unless I have negative air pressure and it gets air through the gaps in the glass panel) and it will have a black aluminium plate covering it with metal mesh side panels so the cabling can't be noticed.


----------



## tomsonx1983

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Juris*
> 
> Just got my Aquaero 6 XT and have begun the process of destroying my bank balance buying things to go with it. I'm running a VPP755 pump with a max stated flow rate of 350lph so am I right in choosing the MPS Flow 400. Looks like the right choice looking at Aquacomputers site but just confirming. Also is there anything else I need to buy from AC to get the full functionality of the MPS Flow and connect it to the 6 XT (I have an AC temp sensor already in the Aquatuning basket). Any additional cables or gadgets etc?
> 
> Also wondering is it a good idea to get the passive heatsink. I know from reading here the 6 has much better thermals than the 5 but I'm placing the 6 behind the motherboard tray where it will get little or no airflow from fans (unless I have negative air pressure and it gets air through the gaps in the glass panel) and it will have a black aluminium plate covering it with metal mesh side panels so the cabling can't be noticed.


Dont expect 350lph in loop








My coolance d5 strong - 450-S got 1200 LPH
In a loop 2 rads cpu+vrm+pch+ 2 gpus blocks get about 260 LPH


----------



## Juris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tomsonx1983*
> 
> Dont expect 350lph in loop
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My coolance d5 strong - 450-S got 1200 LPH
> In a loop 2 rads cpu+vrm+pch+ 2 gpus blocks get about 260 LPH


Thanks for the info. So should I be going for the MPS Flow 200 instead of the 400?


----------



## jura11

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Juris*
> 
> Thanks for the info. So should I be going for the MPS Flow 200 instead of the 400?


Hi there

I would rather get this one

https://www.overclockers.co.uk/aqua-computer-high-flow-flow-sensor-wc-113-aq.html

If I would choose then MPS400, 200 I wouldn't consider there for yours loop

And regarding the passive heatsink you don't need it or you shouldn't, running without and my temperatures on Aquaero 6XT never been higher than 35-40°C in hot weather

Hope this helps

Thanks, Jura


----------



## Juris

Hi Jura thanks for the reply. In my head I had excluded the High Flow model as I've seen seen several videos and read many comments of it ticking and others of it dying after a year or so (of course you're never likely to hear from the majority if it is still working for them). I was also considering that the High Flow being mechanical might be less reliable over the long term and also introduce more restriction than the non-mechanical MPS Flow series.

The other aspect of the High Flow which is particular to my own system is the size. The MPS Flow series is 55 x 34 x 21 mm while the High Flow 53 x 50 x 43 mm. I'm very tight for space (particularly in height terms) in the rear chamber of my In Win 909 with a 4 port esata-sata raid card below the space to run fittings and a 295x2 with 4 mini displayport cables above. Wasn't sure I could get the High Flow in there and still be able to attach the necessary wiring.

 

Whether going for a Highflow or an MPS the above fittings would need to be re-arranged to incorporate them but the MPS's smaller dimensions would give me more wiggle room to angle it down to avoid the 2nd row of fittings that would need to be installed to its right. The High Flow would be easier to get a good reading from in that location as it doesn't require the 5cm tube length on inlet/outlet the MPS demands.

I may resort to splitting the tube coming from the Monsoon rotary on the right of the pic to the rear rad and inserting it there hidden from front view by an upper reservoir mount. More difficult to do with the High Flow due to size. The MPS would have more than enough tubing to get a reading up there.

Can I ask why you feel the MPS series wouldn't be a good match for my system. Cheers.

PS: Can the High Flow measure pressure like the MPS. Sorry for the noobs questions. Only beginning to learn the Aquaero ropes. Cheers.


----------



## jura11

@Juris

Hi Juris

I see you are really don't have lots of space where you can put this sensor

I thought so you have extra space for this sensor and probably I didn't read yours previous replies in this thread

This Highflow I recommend rather due it doesn't need straight 5cm on both sides and reliability of the Highflow not sure, I used one on my friend loop and currently have that sensor for about 3 months and no issues, I have MPS400 with which I have few problems in past plus I'm now on second one, first failed few months back but this second one works without the issues right now

Other flow sensor which you can consider is INS-FM18 from Koolance which many people over here recommend and use, just these flow sensors are very hard to get in UK or EU

Regarding the pressure sensor I think you will need separate pressure sensor as these MPS400 or 200 etc can measure pressure but not as these which are made for this

Hope this helps

Thanks, Jura


----------



## BatteryKing

Might want to consider this review of your pump:
http://www.xtremerigs.net/2016/10/31/alphacool-eispumpe-vpp755-pump-review/

Some take-aways are from the review are:
1. 5 Speed voltage regulated control. PWM signal only switches between these voltage modes. If you want infinitely variable, consider putting it to setting 5 and using a high Watt capable (at least 18W) fan controller in voltage regulated mode, which you can get for the Aquaero. May end up doing some custom wiring to make this all work.

2. No restriction readings from this in the review are ~3.5 gpm, which is roughly 800 lph. A lot more than the 350 lph you have found elsewhere. Of course with some restriction on a practical loop, you will see less. I wouldn't be surprise if things max out around 500 lph for you. The MPS 400 should be good enough for this as it tends to be able to show raw numbers higher and lower than the stated range; mainly a question of how good those numbers will be.

3. Quieter than the D5.

4. More power efficient than the D5.

5. Not really compatible with D5 tops. Some may work, some may not.

While some people may be able to comment better on this than I (if you go back a though recent posts you will find a wealth of information on this topic), here are some things I would consider about each flow sensor option:
1. Aqua computing pressure sensors:
a. Needs straight space on either side to potentially get a good reading. I don't think I have good enough straight space and this may be why I was getting especially poor lower flow rate readings out of it, though I did get reasonably good high flow rate readings. It sounds like your space is even more cramped than mine, so I suspect you will see all kinds of anomalous stuff with these sensors as highly turbulent fluid going through wreaks havoc on the stability of pressure samples.

b. Desperately needs calibration. This can be calibrated if you have a good reference source. Also good if you regularly have your computer going to sleep so it has a regular zero point where the pump is off to calibrate to. I ran into the problem where the low raw number combined with always on operation lead to the raw number shifting to 0 after a couple of weeks and 0 is bad.

c. If you can get this to work, well there are no moving parts to cause trouble later on or to cause clicking noises commonly heard with a number of other flow sensors.

2. Koolance impeller flow sensors:
a. Works out of the box.

b. No way to calibrate. Either may be pretty much dead on or somewhat off. Good enough if you want reasonable idea of what is going on. Also for me at least I am able to get good readings at lower speeds. I like this because at system idle, especially on a cool day, I have my pump on a water temperature controlled scale to run slower and thus more quietly than on hot days and full load. Was having too much trouble getting these lower readings reliably off of the Aqua computer MPS units, though some have had better luck than I have for suspected reasons outlined elsewhere.

c. Has moving part taking the measurement. I have never heard it even when my pump is at 100% throttle. May one day break, but should still allow some flow. Also if you use the relay setup with the Aquaero I describe elsewhere or do the alternate relay in parallel to the m/b power switch, you could have your system automatically power off in the event there is either no flow or the flow sensor breaks.

d. Supposed to have some reasonably straight space around it. While my system tripped up on the Aqua computing pressure based flow sensors, the Koolance sensor seems golden for me for now.

3. Other flow sensors have been mentioned, but often clicking noises come along with these mentions. I normally avoid Koolance and instead tend to do things like EKWB parts, however I made an exception with their flow sensor as this has worked out better than other things of theirs I have tried. (For example I tried some of Koolance's twisting fittings because EKWB was out of stock and I got impatient, but those leaked too easily, so I dumped them overboard as soon as I could, replacing them with EKWB parts once they were available again.) Anyways I was really after works reasonably well out of the box and use as a strong source for the Aquaero to determine when to cut power as opposed to endlessly fine tuning until I got elegant, precisely calibrated answers out of the unit. Maybe your goal is something different?


----------



## BatteryKing

One thing I have been trying to figure out with my Aquaero 6 XT without much success is how to adjust pump speed (this is a PWM based EKWB D5 pump) based on a 'timer' (I normally think of this as a cron job, but Aquasuite uses a different term.) The reason I want to do this is air bubbles keep collecting up at the top of the loop while running the pump at a quieter throttled back curve (and especially a bit slower now that it is no longer summer) and I would like to push the bubbles into the reservoir periodically by revving up the pump to 100% automatically while I am away from the computer especially as this is on a machine that is normally on. So far trying to setup to use the 'timer' functionality has not worked out very well. For one there does not seem to be a way to simply tell it to say switch from using a temperature based curve controller to running at a 100% preset value and then back. The closest I could find is switching profiles, but when I try to screw with this, my existing 'curve controllers' go to 0% output and nothing seems to get them to do something different until I power cycle the system and then redo the curves, which is a bit of a PITA. Also there does not seem to be a way to clone one profile to another in the GUI. I was wondering if anybody has a solution for how to handle this, especially as it seems like you can go pretty deep down the rabbit hole with this controller if you know what you are doing.


----------



## war4peace

Rather than solving the problem through software... have you considered redesigning the loop?


----------



## BatteryKing

It is not really practical for me to redesign the loop. For one the bubble buildup is right above the reservoir and the reservoir as most reservoirs has the inlet at the top. Second I drilled holes in the case (CaseLabs SMA8) to get everything reasonably tidy and water flow between chambers and also used hard line tubing, which takes time to mold into the proper dimensions. Maybe a pic of the system would help.


----------



## war4peace

So you mean the bubble buildup is in the small green tube above the reservoir which feeds it? It's normal if you filled your reservoir to the brim.
It's usually a good idea to leave some room for air in the reservoir. What you're doing to "get rid" of the bubbles by revving up the pump is basically sucking them back into the loop.
Sorry but apart from letting some air in your reservoir I have no other solution.


----------



## WhellchairNinja

Is there a way to make the aquaero change the color of my RGB-strips dependent on a controller output?


----------



## BatteryKing

It is not quite to the brim, but it looks this way in the shot. Is there a minimum amount of clearance that is proven to work best. I have noticed over the past year the the reservoir level goes down over the course of months in this loop, but it is not leaking. The tubing is actually clear, but I am using an opaque coolant. I think the biggest problem is the radiator is so large (560mm long and 86mm thick) that it takes a long time to free all of the air from it due to the relatively slow flow rate through the individual parts. I would think the reservoir would be a natural collection point of bubbles simply because it is the quietest part of the loop flow wise. I don't really follow the physics of why having the reservoir partly empty would make a difference over being full to the brim. Is this the bubbles get a chance to surface and pop with enough open air where otherwise it will keep a seal with the wet top of the reservoir and get pulled back down into the loop as the coolant swirls turbulently around the reservoir?

Also especially seeing history has been the reservoir level slowly goes down over the course of several months, it would still be nice to have an answer on how to speed up the pump on a schedule.


----------



## ruffhi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BatteryKing*
> 
> One thing I have been trying to figure out with my Aquaero 6 XT without much success is how to adjust pump speed (this is a PWM based EKWB D5 pump) based on a 'timer' (I normally think of this as a cron job, but Aquasuite uses a different term.) The reason I want to do this is air bubbles keep collecting up at the top of the loop while running the pump at a quieter throttled back curve (and especially a bit slower now that it is no longer summer) and I would like to push the bubbles into the reservoir periodically by revving up the pump to 100% automatically while I am away from the computer especially as this is on a machine that is normally on. So far trying to setup to use the 'timer' functionality has not worked out very well. For one there does not seem to be a way to simply tell it to say switch from using a temperature based curve controller to running at a 100% preset value and then back. The closest I could find is switching profiles, but when I try to screw with this, my existing 'curve controllers' go to 0% output and nothing seems to get them to do something different until I power cycle the system and then redo the curves, which is a bit of a PITA. Also there does not seem to be a way to clone one profile to another in the GUI. I was wondering if anybody has a solution for how to handle this, especially as it seems like you can go pretty deep down the rabbit hole with this controller if you know what you are doing.


I haven't tried timers before.

I have Profile 4 set up as my standard (pump @ 45%) ... Profile 1 is the same as Profile but the pump is @100%. To remove air bubbles, I run Profile 1 for a while.

So ... I just created a timer #1 ... 8:08pm on Sunday - load profile #1.
I also creaated another timer #2 ... 8:09pm on Sunday - load profile #4.

So ... what happened? 8:08pm and the pump kicked up to 100%. However, my timers disappeared ... as they are profile related and loading Profile #1 loaded the timers for Profile #1 (nil).

Guess I should have saved profiles after setting up the timers.

Cloning profiles? Can't you just load #1 and then save it as #2 ... then #2 = #1 (ie a copy / clone).

That said - I do find Profiles to be difficult to work with and I only use them to change the pump speed.


----------



## war4peace

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BatteryKing*
> 
> I have noticed over the past year the the reservoir level goes down over the course of months in this loop, but it is not leaking.


That's due to evaporation, it does happen through seals, tubing, pretty much anything but very very slowly.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BatteryKing*
> 
> I think the biggest problem is the radiator is so large (560mm long and 86mm thick) that it takes a long time to free all of the air from it due to the relatively slow flow rate through the individual parts. I would think the reservoir would be a natural collection point of bubbles simply because it is the quietest part of the loop flow wise. I don't really follow the physics of why having the reservoir partly empty would make a difference over being full to the brim. Is this the bubbles get a chance to surface and pop with enough open air where otherwise it will keep a seal with the wet top of the reservoir and get pulled back down into the loop as the coolant swirls turbulently around the reservoir?


1. Yes, large radiators take a long time to free all the bubbles and sometimes they never do fully. However, what you are doing when revving the pump up, you put the bubblşes back in the loop and they stick to the radiator's insides, then they slowly come out again only to go back in when you rev the pump up.
2. Yes, there were various suggestions to leave the reservoir 50-75% full for a few days when filling the loop, also tilt the case every now and then to allow for all the air to gather in the reservoir. Then, once liquid levels remain stationary in the reservoir, you can slowly fill it back to preferred levels.

I usually prefer seeing some empty space in my reservoir, 1cm or so from the top. Never had bubbles issues so far.


----------



## BatteryKing

So is Aqua Computer ever going to put out (a) PWM only fan accessory(ies) where you can monitor and control all PWM fans at an individual level for a group such as a radiator? The idea of PWM only is you can ditch the voltage regulator, which costs extra and produces extra heat, and just have the individualized control and monitor circuits for each fan along with a simple 12V power bus. Right now what I (and others) do is to use a fan hub that monitors one fan in an array and then distributes the PWM signal to all fans. While this works at a basic level, there are some problems I think would be more easily cracked I am coming across such as:

1. One fan in the array starts buzzing / breaks. I have had plenty of fans fail over the years, almost always they start buzzing and slow down and then eventually fail / I pull them out. My brother for example has one of his 8 radiator fans buzzing and he does not know which one it is and it is kind of a pain to isolate it. I was thinking it would be nice to see which fan in the group is slowing down more than it should and then examine that fan first. Also if a fan in an array seizes all together, you may never notice until you take down the system for routine maintenance and even then you might not notice unless you make it a point to look.

2. The push pull fan array on the rad on my Linux box makes a bit of an odd noise over a certain speed that I don't hear with individual fans it seems and its a bit annoying. (It becomes perceptible above 850 RPM for the 140mm fans and is gets really annoying above 1200rpm. The sound gets much louder at higher speeds. In comparison a single fan is dead silent in relation to the rest of the rig up to ~1100rpm and even at 2000rpm, it is quieter than the whole array at 1200rpm and none of that odd buzzing noise.) I am thinking this may be due to differing effective angle of attack of the fan blades as all should be spinning at about the same speed, but half of the fans already have the air accelerated some by the fans on the push side. Maybe I need to run the fans on the pull side a little faster to correct effective angle of attack enough to maintain a proper laminar airflow over the fan blades. Maybe I have the wrong idea of what is going on. Regardless if I could more easily play with the fans at an individual level, I could hone in on what exactly is going on. At least as it stands right now I can get plenty of cooling with the fans always staying below 900 rpm, but this is a system that will get more heat producing components in it over time.


----------



## war4peace

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BatteryKing*
> 
> My brother for example has one of his 8 radiator fans buzzing and he does not know which one it is and it is kind of a pain to isolate it.


I use the good old "press a finger against running fan" method, seems to be working well. But yes it would be nice to get some sort of multichannel speed monitoring cable which only uses the yellow wire to read rotation speed.
That would be awesome.


----------



## Cozmo85

Aquabus still not working between my aquaero 6 and aquacomputer d5 pump. after the new aquasuite/firmware. Even after resetting everything and trying a 4 pin cable









This totally sucks and apparently there is no way to revert firmware and there is no way to reflash the d5 pump.


----------



## BatteryKing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *war4peace*
> 
> That's due to evaporation, it does happen through seals, tubing, pretty much anything but very very slowly.
> 1. Yes, large radiators take a long time to free all the bubbles and sometimes they never do fully. However, what you are doing when revving the pump up, you put the bubblşes back in the loop and they stick to the radiator's insides, then they slowly come out again only to go back in when you rev the pump up.
> 2. Yes, there were various suggestions to leave the reservoir 50-75% full for a few days when filling the loop, also tilt the case every now and then to allow for all the air to gather in the reservoir. Then, once liquid levels remain stationary in the reservoir, you can slowly fill it back to preferred levels.
> 
> I usually prefer seeing some empty space in my reservoir, 1cm or so from the top. Never had bubbles issues so far.


For the most part this makes sense to me. There is one detail in that with my Windows box I have only seen the reservoir level drop a little in the beginning and since it has stayed at the same level for months on end. So this makes me think there is no water evaporating form this loop. I figured the difference I am seeing is my Windows box has a relatively small radiator (360mm x 120mm x 45mm) while my Linux box has a relatively large radiator (560mm x 140mm x 86mm). Then again I suppose my Linux box is also on all of the time with the pump turned down while my Windows box has everything turned up to 100% throttle as the 360mm rad is really struggling to dissipate the heat under load and I have this system off most of the time. (I can only fit 360mm in that case and have been reluctant to rebuild the system into a bigger case, especially as I already have one giant system under the desk and I was trying to save money by using older, but still working parts where I could.)
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *war4peace*
> 
> I use the good old "press a finger against running fan" method, seems to be working well. But yes it would be nice to get some sort of multichannel speed monitoring cable which only uses the yellow wire to read rotation speed.
> That would be awesome.


I was thinking specifically seeing the yellow wire generally carries a simple PWM signal, use the "high speed" Aquabus interface for the extra PWM fan headers. Of course this would have to be an Aqua Computer special, but who else uses a compact, packetized bus for this sort of stuff?

If anyone is curious, I think I have figured out the loud, annoying sound issue with my Noctua NF-A14 fans. I actually found two points that aggravated the problem:
1. The more minor place of aggravation is the fan grate on the side of the case. It is very close to the spinning fans and at higher speeds it seems to cause more turbulent flow over the fans blades and thus the odd and annoying sound crops up. With only the push side plugged in and no fan grate, I could easily do 1100 RPM on these fans and have silent operation.

2. The major place of aggravation is on the pull side radiator fans. While these fans have a fair amount more spacing between them and the radiator than the push side has with the grate, I suspect the combination of air being pushed onto them, changing their effective angle of attack and the radiator making a good acoustic amplifier is causing these fans to be rather noisy.

Overall I would say the main problem with my configuration is the Noctua NF-A14 fans seem to be acoustically optimized to run in a push only configuration with at least 1cm of open space in front of them. Once you deviate from this optimization the airflow over the blades becomes sub-optimal and thus noisy. On closer examination of this issue the effectively silent point shifts from ~1100 RPM for optimal push only and open space in front, to ~860 RPM for push side grate directly in front, to ~800 RPM for grate and push / pull configuration. I have yet to examine pull only at the time of this writing.


----------



## war4peace

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BatteryKing*
> 
> I was thinking specifically seeing the yellow wire generally carries a simple PWM signal, use the "high speed" Aquabus interface for the extra PWM fan headers. Of course this would have to be an Aqua Computer special, but who else uses a compact, packetized bus for this sort of stuff?


I'm sorry, I made a mistake.

The PWM pinout is Black (GND), Yellow (12V), Green (RPM), Blue (PWM Signal).
You only need Black, Yellow and Blue to control the fan. The RPM wire can be connected to something else which reads the value, but not sure if you also need a GND wire there as well.


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cozmo85*
> 
> Aquabus still not working between my aquaero 6 and aquacomputer d5 pump. after the new aquasuite/firmware. Even after resetting everything and trying a 4 pin cable
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This totally sucks and apparently there is no way to revert firmware and there is no way to reflash the d5 pump.


- Are the 3-pin / PWM cable pinned correctly? They should be 1:1.
- After the firmware has been installed remove all the power from the devices (This includes USB cables).
- Some devices might not have gotten the newer firmware which could possible issues with the devices not communicating with one another(USB cable is required for firmware updates).
- This is a given make sure it's plugged into High Speed port(there making contact with the pins). If your using Splitty9 make sure you put the shunt into the aquabus mode.


----------



## Cozmo85

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> - Are the 3-pin / PWM cable pinned correctly? They should be 1:1.
> - After the firmware has been installed remove all the power from the devices (This includes USB cables).
> - Some devices might not have gotten the newer firmware which could possible issues with the devices not communicating with one another(USB cable is required for firmware updates).
> - This is a given make sure it's plugged into High Speed port(there making contact with the pins). If your using Splitty9 make sure you put the shunt into the aquabus mode.


It may be failure of the aquabus interface (on the pump) based on testing. Im gonna see if i can buy a replacement pcb.


----------



## Ashcroft

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Juris*
> 
> Just got my Aquaero 6 XT and have begun the process of destroying my bank balance buying things to go with it. I'm running a VPP755 pump with a max stated flow rate of 350lph so am I right in choosing the MPS Flow 400. Looks like the right choice looking at Aquacomputers site but just confirming. Also is there anything else I need to buy from AC to get the full functionality of the MPS Flow and connect it to the 6 XT (I have an AC temp sensor already in the Aquatuning basket). Any additional cables or gadgets etc?
> 
> Also wondering is it a good idea to get the passive heatsink. I know from reading here the 6 has much better thermals than the 5 but I'm placing the 6 behind the motherboard tray where it will get little or no airflow from fans (unless I have negative air pressure and it gets air through the gaps in the glass panel) and it will have a black aluminium plate covering it with metal mesh side panels so the cabling can't be noticed.


The passive heatsink is not required because the Aq6 is just so much better than the 5 as far as heat goes. It runs cooler at lower volts instead of hotter and unless you are near its max output ratings it stays very cool.
The heatsink is useful just for the better labeling of headers and plugs it provides over standard. I think it's worth it just for that alone.

If you get MPS sensors then 4 pin female to female (Aquabus) fan cables are good to get as well as extensions.


----------



## BatteryKing

I have been having some odd and somewhat disturbing issues with the curve controllers on my Aquaero 6 XT. I am wondering if anybody else has seen this. Each way I go about this, it performs oddly in a slightly different way. The problem was first noticed when I started playing with profiles, but even after I abandoned the notion of switching around profiles, I still see odd behavior. More specifically:

1. Bring up system cold (including flipping the power switch in the back) - In most cases it comes up correctly and any oddities happening before clear out, but in some cases if the curve controller was not working before, it is not working even after a cold boot.

2. Power cycle system, but leave power switch in back on - Curve controllers tend not to work. Sometimes my pump is stopped and then the emergency shutdown relay on the Aquaero 6 XT kicks in (I have alarm actions set in the Aquaero 6 XT) and the system shuts off. So in a way the Aquaero 6 XT detects the problem it causes and shuts off the system before damage. Sometimes the radiator fans are getting 0% from the controller and spool up to maximum speed while the pump curve controller will initialize properly. It is a bit random it seems.

3. Any sort of power cycle with the RTC in place - Curve controllers tend not to work and no way to reset unless battery is removed and power switch in back is flipped. I kind of wanted the RTC because control software is in a VM and it would be nice if the Aquaero 6 XT kept time when VM is off for extended periods. I have taken it out completely since, but that did not solve the larger problem; just made it a little easier to reset back to a working state.

4. When curve controller fails to work after reboot - Often times going to the curve controller settings and doing any sort of change in the automatic menu gets the curve controller to work again. Sometimes nothing helps.

5. Running the firmware update - This clears out everything. However interestingly enough even though I was careful to reset the fan settings first (these are PWM fans / pumps) and did a cold boot after, the controller just sits at 0%. I tried reloading the last profile save and the curve controllers sprung back to life, however a lot of settings were missing including one of the curve controllers was missing and so I had had to go around and reset what is not there. At least when I programmed in the second curve controller after the restore it initialized.

6. When setting fans to preset fan controller - At least when I tried this towards the end after flashing the firmware, this seems to be working reliably. However using a fixed preset kind of defeats the purpose of driving off of the Aquaero 6 XT.

In summary I am seeing some odd things with my curve controllers and things that can potentially damage my system. Has anybody else seen this or have ideas on what I can do besides abandon the Aquaero 6 XT in regards to fan and pump control?

EDIT: I seem to have at least come up with a partial answer until I can do some more tweaking around. I found a few options to help out:
1. In the fan menu, select "hold minimum power". I just did not press this button before and this seems to be holding the pump speed up even when the curve controller is mis-behaving.

2. Found the minimum fan and pump speeds and set the minimum in the fans section. This also means my curve controllers necessary start at 1%.

3. While I already had a 2 second boost on the pump, the thought occurred to me while filling the loop that it took more than 2 seconds to spool up the pump all the way. I increased the boost time to 4 seconds to make sure the pump spins up fast enough to break lose the impeller based Koolance flow sensor as I am wondering if one of the many possible contributing problems is especially with it being cooler lately, it is just sticking sometimes at startup with too low of a pump speed to break it lose from static friction. (My pump speed curve is based around the notion that the hot side of the loop after all heat producing components will best dictate how fast the pump needs to go especially as CPU temp fluctuates wildly due to thermal transfer issues off of the die, not water temp so is a horrible source, and also after a certain temp inside the room I will probably turn on the noisy AC and thus will not notice pump noise over that.)

4. I have been using the Aqua computing MPS module as a temperature station to control pump speed due to a temperature probe wire being too short to make it all the way back to the Aquaero 6 XT controller in this giant Caselabs SMA8 case. I plan on building an extension cable for the temperature probe and take the MPS module out all together. (I have come across other posts where people have extended a temperature probe cable and still got the same reading as before.) There are some signs this the MPS is a bit slow / sketchy anyway for whatever reasons, so getting it out of the system is probably the best idea for now. (I had to extend the aquabus cable to it and maybe that is not such a great idea, even the USB interface takes a while to properly initialize and sometimes I do a software disconnect - reconnect in the VM manager to get it to recognize in the guest OS, and I never was all that happy with its ability to determine flow rate leading me to wonder if this is one of the less refined pieces of kit that have come out of Aqua Computer.)


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cozmo85*
> 
> It may be failure of the aquabus interface (on the pump) based on testing. Im gonna see if i can buy a replacement pcb.


The newer versions of the pump are a pain to remove the cap or any of the parts due to the new wiring.


----------



## Juris

Would anyone know where to get or have made a connector cable from the touch screen section to the main PCB on the Aquaero 6XT. Having a tough time finding 2mm pitch male female jumper leads and 2x12 male and female connectors the Aquaero needs. If anyone can make one drop me a PM. Happy to pay to have one made up. Cheers.


----------



## Cozmo85

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> The newer versions of the pump are a pain to remove the cap or any of the parts due to the new wiring.


Interesting. wonder if mine is one of the newer revisions. Guess we will see.


----------



## iamjanco

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cozmo85*
> 
> Interesting. wonder if mine is one of the newer revisions. Guess we will see.


It's easy enough to determine using a thin, common screwdriver or blade. The back actually prys off fairly easily. Just go slow and don't lift it off too far. If it's the newer version with the flex cable, you'll see that right away.

As for removing the back plate completely, you'll need a good set of soldering tools AND good soldering technique. That said, doing so may or may not void your warranty depending on how Aquacomputer views such work.


----------



## icywiener

Hey,
Should I try the PWM Mod for a EK D5 G2 when it is not working with ae6lt or will it kill the ae / d5 ?


----------



## Bartdude

EK - D5 G2 doesn't need the PWM mod ( I use 2)


----------



## becks

Is Aquaero able to stop Fans (*Good PWN Fans..) from spinning completely at low temps and start them on a defined Start-Stop curve ? like the EK ER's ?


----------



## Cozmo85

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *becks*
> 
> Is Aquaero able to stop Fans (*Good PWN Fans..) from spinning completely at low temps and start them on a defined Start-Stop curve ? like the EK ER's ?


Depends on the fan IIRC and how they handle 0 pwm signal. Lots of fans seem to go full speed with lack of a pwm signal. Im guessing the new eks are simply programmed to not do that?


----------



## Ashcroft

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cozmo85*
> 
> Depends on the fan IIRC and how they handle 0 pwm signal. Lots of fans seem to go full speed with lack of a pwm signal. Im guessing the new eks are simply programmed to not do that?


That's right and it also depends on how the fans are connected to power. If the Aquaero directly powers the fans then at zero PWM it cuts voltage as well but if the fans are on a powered splitter then zero PWM will send them to full speed if that is their default.


----------



## Oli3dfx

Hey,

Do you know if the high flow sensor (without USB connection) must be connected to the aquabus port ?
I hooked it to the "flow" port but the aquaero wasn't reporting anything in flow sensors. Wanted to try the aquabus port but I broke the cable removing it, stupid me.
By the way, does a regular PWM splitter work with aquabus signal ?


----------



## GTXJackBauer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Oli3dfx*
> 
> Hey,
> 
> Do you know if the high flow sensor (without USB connection) must be connected to the aquabus port ?
> I hooked it to the "flow" port but the aquaero wasn't reporting anything in flow sensors. Wanted to try the aquabus port but I broke the cable removing it, stupid me.
> By the way, does a regular PWM splitter work with aquabus signal ?


The High Flow Sensor is supposed to be plugged into the Flow Header on the back of the Aquaero. Once there, you'll need to go to the Sensor's tab under the Aquaero in Aquasuite and under 'Flow Sensors'. You should be able to configure it there

To answer your second question, a regular PWM splitter should work as long as all the connections are there compared to other splitters where the RPM signal is removed from all headers except one. I honestly would just grab a SPLITTY9 from them.


----------



## Mega Man

You can blow something up ( read break it ) If you connect a flow sensor to the Aquabus.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *becks*
> 
> Is Aquaero able to stop Fans (*Good PWN Fans..) from spinning completely at low temps and start them on a defined Start-Stop curve ? like the EK ER's ?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ashcroft*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Cozmo85*
> 
> Depends on the fan IIRC and how they handle 0 pwm signal. Lots of fans seem to go full speed with lack of a pwm signal. Im guessing the new eks are simply programmed to not do that?
> 
> 
> 
> That's right and it also depends on how the fans are connected to power. If the Aquaero directly powers the fans then at zero PWM it cuts voltage as well but if the fans are on a powered splitter then zero PWM will send them to full speed if that is their default.
Click to expand...

exactly this, you can use am automotive relay to cut power if using a external power source


----------



## ruffhi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *becks*
> 
> Is Aquaero able to stop Fans (*Good PWN Fans..) from spinning completely at low temps and start them on a defined Start-Stop curve ? like the EK ER's ?
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ashcroft*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Cozmo85*
> 
> Depends on the fan IIRC and how they handle 0 pwm signal. Lots of fans seem to go full speed with lack of a pwm signal. Im guessing the new eks are simply programmed to not do that?
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> That's right and it also depends on how the fans are connected to power. If the Aquaero directly powers the fans then at zero PWM it cuts voltage as well but if the fans are on a powered splitter then zero PWM will send them to full speed if that is their default.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> exactly this, you can use am automotive relay to cut power if using a external power source
Click to expand...

I tried that (relay) and something didn't like the relay cutting in / out - it rebooted my PC. I didn't bother to try and see what was causing that.

That said, the fact that the aquaero drops the voltage to zero when PWM hits 0% got me to thinking that I could carve out the power coming from the aquaero to my fan hub (hub gets power for fans from PSU) and run the aquaero power signal through the automotive relay as the control signal.

I'll keep on thinking about this and see if I can knock up a diagram.

The other approach is that I wrote to SilverstoneTek about their fan hub (CPF04) to ask them if they could modify the electronics to cut the power to the fans when the PWM signal hit 0%.


----------



## Andrew LB

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> You can blow something up ( read break it ) If you connect a flow sensor to the Aquaero.


Can you elaborate on this a bit? My Aquacomputer High Flow (53068) is plugged into the "flow 1" port and works just fine. It's the one with ONLY a 3 pin oversized fan molex looking plug. If the flow sensor is the "High Flow USB" version, that should be connected using the internal USB connection initially and then once setup, connected to Aquabus.


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iamjanco*
> 
> It's easy enough to determine using a thin, common screwdriver or blade. The back actually prys off fairly easily. Just go slow and don't lift it off too far. If it's the newer version with the flex cable, you'll see that right away.
> 
> As for removing the back plate completely, you'll need a good set of soldering tools AND good soldering technique. That said, doing so may or may not void your warranty depending on how Aquacomputer views such work.


The space and give of the flextape is not allot. You might not want to try to remove the flextape unless your good enough at soldering in tight spaces.


----------



## iamjanco

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> The space and give of the flextape is not allot. You might not want to try to remove the flextape unless your good enough at soldering in tight spaces.


I did say "...AND good soldering technique."


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ruffhi*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *becks*
> 
> Is Aquaero able to stop Fans (*Good PWN Fans..) from spinning completely at low temps and start them on a defined Start-Stop curve ? like the EK ER's ?
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ashcroft*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Cozmo85*
> 
> Depends on the fan IIRC and how they handle 0 pwm signal. Lots of fans seem to go full speed with lack of a pwm signal. Im guessing the new eks are simply programmed to not do that?
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> That's right and it also depends on how the fans are connected to power. If the Aquaero directly powers the fans then at zero PWM it cuts voltage as well but if the fans are on a powered splitter then zero PWM will send them to full speed if that is their default.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> exactly this, you can use am automotive relay to cut power if using a external power source
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> I tried that (relay) and something didn't like the relay cutting in / out - it rebooted my PC. I didn't bother to try and see what was causing that.
> 
> That said, the fact that the aquaero drops the voltage to zero when PWM hits 0% got me to thinking that I could carve out the power coming from the aquaero to my fan hub (hub gets power for fans from PSU) and run the aquaero power signal through the automotive relay as the control signal.
> 
> I'll keep on thinking about this and see if I can knock up a diagram.
> 
> The other approach is that I wrote to SilverstoneTek about their fan hub (CPF04) to ask them if they could modify the electronics to cut the power to the fans when the PWM signal hit 0%.
Click to expand...

Weird, i would try that again there ous no reason out does reboot your pc, @IT Diva any reason you can see this happening
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Andrew LB*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> You can blow something up ( read break it ) If you connect a flow sensor to the Aquaero.
> 
> 
> 
> Can you elaborate on this a bit? My Aquacomputer High Flow (53068) is plugged into the "flow 1" port and works just fine. It's the one with ONLY a 3 pin oversized fan molex looking plug. If the flow sensor is the "High Flow USB" version, that should be connected using the internal USB connection initially and then once setup, connected to Aquabus.
Click to expand...

Sorry, i missed an autocorrect, that was supposed to say *aquabus*. I have edited my post.


----------



## nikuk

Alright folks, I apologize in advance as I seem to be stuck in the 'paralysis by analysis' phase.

_Can I use the 5 LT to shut the computer down based on a 2-pin (NO) reservoir float level switch?_

I'm reading & searching through the Aquaero 5_6 2016_10_14 manual pdf and the primary references I find state:

7.1. Sensors
The following sensors are available:
● Fill level sensors (Control processes can not be based on fill level values.)

19.1. Configure alarm monitoring
The aquaero can be configured to autonomously monitor various measurement readings. Depending on the data source, varying configuration options are available:
● Fill level alarms: For each fill level monitoring setting, individual alarm
levels can be assigned to two fill level limits. An alarm can be raised if a
limit is underrun.

I'm looking at the Koolance 70mm float switch, which is NO until the float reaches the bottom of it's travel, when it will report a closed contact over a 2 pin connector.
http://www.performance-pcs.com/koolance-liquid-level-sensor-70mm.html#Details

It would seem that I can accomplish a "res level switch based shutdown" (I will need the ATX break connector and a 3 pin relay plug of course), *but can I use the Koolance NO switch, and would I simply plug it into the SENSOR area of the 5LT board, then configure in Aquasuite?*

I have an EK Serial D5 G2 pump setup, so I expect to run it through Aquaero to monitor for pump RPM drop / failure... which leaves my primary concern of a leak causing the GPUs to run dry. This is a 24/7 render machine that can be left unattended, under load, for many hours at a time.


----------



## Mega Man

Not that I am aware of, there are no bianary inputs that I know of


----------



## Ashcroft

Trying to use Koolance sensors is always an uphill battle.

The Aquaero system includes fill level sensors that can be used as alarm triggers and shutdown that are specifically designed and built for the system so using any other type seems more hassle than any saving it might entail.


----------



## Bogga

If any of you have aquasuite crashing on start... uninstall the latest windows update. I started the computer this morning, but aquasuite crashed immediately and there was no way I could get it to start. I started thinking what I changed lately but couldn't come up with anything. Then it hit me that Windows updated before I went to sleep last night...

Uninstall this and it works as it should again


----------



## FlyInfinity

Aquasuite has been crashing for me since the FCU update but its fixable by copying the d3d9.dll file (somewhere in the windows directory) into the aquasuite directory.


----------



## apw63

little help please,

I've put together a new build. New first time install of win 10 pro on this new system. I have an aquaero 6, a slave, mps 400 and a aqualis REZ with level indicator. I replaced my NZT powered usb hub with a hubby 7.

I got the system up and running. Initial configuration, Hubby 7 connected to MB usd header, aquaero 6, mps 400 and REZ usbs connected to hubby 7. Installed new version of aquasuite 2017-3.1. Aquasuite reports no usb AC devices connected to system. The hubby 7 power pins are on 1 and 2. The red LED is not lit on the hubby 7. So I reconfigure the usb connections to have the aquaero 6 only connected straight to the MB. When the system is rebooted AS sees the aquaero. I shut system down connect the hubby 7 to the MB with MPS 400 and REZ connected to the hubby. Aquaero still direct connection to the MB. Power up the PSU and red LED on hubby lights up. Boot system up all AC devices seen except the slave. All AC devices are also connected with aquabus. I update firmware on all AC devices without errors. All AC devices seen by AS except the slave. I understand now that the slave needs to be set back to default, firmware updated and then reslaved.

Here is my issue. I shut the system down to reconfigure the usb connection back to the original configuration. I do this to clean up the wiring. One less usb cable the better. When I power the system back up. The hubbys red power LED is not lit up and all of the AC devices say disconnected. I try to reboot the system a few times. I still get all AC devices disconnected. I go back to aquaero directly connected to MB usb head. AS does not see the aquaero. No matter what configuration I do with the usb connection AS will not see the devices.

What am I missing? I'm not new to AC or AS. Any help appreciated.

Thank you
Andy


----------



## Shoggy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bogga*
> 
> If any of you have aquasuite crashing on start... uninstall the latest windows update.


Or you uninstall RivaTuner since it is the real problem *again.* Be aware that some tools like MSI Afterburner also include RivaTuner. As far as I know RivaTuner allows to exclude apps from its monitoring so you can also add the aquasuite.exe to it.

Further information can be found in my old posting about the same problem.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *apw63*
> 
> little help please,
> 
> I've put together a new build. New first time install of win 10 pro on this new system. I have an aquaero 6, a slave, mps 400 and a aqualis REZ with level indicator. I replaced my NZT powered usb hub with a hubby 7.
> 
> I got the system up and running. Initial configuration, Hubby 7 connected to MB usd header, aquaero 6, mps 400 and REZ usbs connected to hubby 7. Installed new version of aquasuite 2017-3.1. Aquasuite reports no usb AC devices connected to system. The hubby 7 power pins are on 1 and 2. The red LED is not lit on the hubby 7. So I reconfigure the usb connections to have the aquaero 6 only connected straight to the MB. When the system is rebooted AS sees the aquaero. I shut system down connect the hubby 7 to the MB with MPS 400 and REZ connected to the hubby. Aquaero still direct connection to the MB. Power up the PSU and red LED on hubby lights up. Boot system up all AC devices seen except the slave. All AC devices are also connected with aquabus. I update firmware on all AC devices without errors. All AC devices seen by AS except the slave. I understand now that the slave needs to be set back to default, firmware updated and then reslaved.
> 
> Here is my issue. I shut the system down to reconfigure the usb connection back to the original configuration. I do this to clean up the wiring. One less usb cable the better. When I power the system back up. The hubbys red power LED is not lit up and all of the AC devices say disconnected. I try to reboot the system a few times. I still get all AC devices disconnected. I go back to aquaero directly connected to MB usb head. AS does not see the aquaero. No matter what configuration I do with the usb connection AS will not see the devices.
> 
> What am I missing? I'm not new to AC or AS. Any help appreciated.y


An aquaero with slave firmware has no USB functionality at all. You will have to put it into recovery mode by placing jumpers on the temperature sensor ports 5, 6, 7 and 8. Dot that before you power the device. When powered up wait till it beeps a few times, then turn it off again and remove the jumpers. Aftewards it will run in recovery mode and USB is enabled again.

When the red LED of Hubby is off, the device does not work so all of the connected devices will not work too of course. You could try to place the jumper to 2-3 (SATA) and to connect SATA for power.


----------



## apw63

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> An aquaero with slave firmware has no USB functionality at all. You will have to put it into recovery mode by placing jumpers on the temperature sensor ports 5, 6, 7 and 8. Dot that before you power the device. When powered up wait till it beeps a few times, then turn it off again and remove the jumpers. Aftewards it will run in recovery mode and USB is enabled again.
> 
> When the red LED of Hubby is off, the device does not work so all of the connected devices will not work too of course. You could try to place the jumper to 2-3 (SATA) and to connect SATA for power.


Thank you Shoggy I understand about setting the slave back and reslaving. That is not my issue.

The issue is and yes I understand that no red led means no power to the hubby. The problem is even if the hubby is configured with the AC devices attached or not. and with the red led lit so devices receive power. AS dose not see any AC devices. It went from working to not working. only thing that changed was the usb hubby configuration. when configured as originally working, it will not work now. This is the issue, not understanding the red led on the hubby.


----------



## nycgtr

Quick question guys. I got an aquaero 6 pro, I got fed up with ai suite fan control. Tried to search a few of these but I need confirmation. Depending on the answers I either need to take apart my build to cut for or not.

#1) I assume I can take it apart and use it without the screen? ( I know there is a screen less version but I needed to be able to use the screen in the future or possibly now)

#2) Can the display be set to display the temps of multiple components and just leave it running as that? As in leaving it as a monitor that I can quickly look at for multiple probe temps. For example, I want it to display cpu temp/ cpu water temp/ gpu water temp/ gpu temp.

#3) I keep reading this d5 mod to connect it to d5 pwm pump and then posts saying it's not needed for certain pumps? I have 2 d5 pwm's I plan to use with this. One is a primochill d5 pwm the latest revision they sell, the other is an EK d5 pwm I believe this is the newer version as it says EK on the sticker back instead of liang.

#4) Can aquasuite output a info panel like aida64 does to another lcd? For example I have a mini lcd that displays the aida64 sensor panel.


----------



## Bogga

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> Or you uninstall RivaTuner since it is the real problem *again.* Be aware that some tools like MSI Afterburner also include RivaTuner. As far as I know RivaTuner allows to exclude apps from its monitoring so you can also add the aquasuite.exe to it.
> 
> Further information can be found in my old posting about the same problem.


Ohh ok... thought it was some problem with the latest update since the uninstallation of it fixed the problem


----------



## GTXJackBauer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nycgtr*
> 
> Quick question guys. I got an aquaero 6 pro, I got fed up with ai suite fan control. Tried to search a few of these but I need confirmation. Depending on the answers I either need to take apart my build to cut for or not.
> 
> #1) I assume I can take it apart and use it without the screen? ( I know there is a screen less version but I needed to be able to use the screen in the future or possibly now)
> 
> #2) Can the display be set to display the temps of multiple components and just leave it running as that? As in leaving it as a monitor that I can quickly look at for multiple probe temps. For example, I want it to display cpu temp/ cpu water temp/ gpu water temp/ gpu temp.
> 
> #3) I keep reading this d5 mod to connect it to d5 pwm pump and then posts saying it's not needed for certain pumps? I have 2 d5 pwm's I plan to use with this. One is a primochill d5 pwm the latest revision they sell, the other is an EK d5 pwm I believe this is the newer version as it says EK on the sticker back instead of liang.
> 
> #4) Can aquasuite output a info panel like aida64 does to another lcd? For example I have a mini lcd that displays the aida64 sensor panel.


I'll try my best to answer some of your questions.

1. I'm not sure but believe you might be able to. No point in taking it apart if you're going to need it now or later on as you said.

2. Yes you can. In Aquasuite under the Aquaero tab, under Information Pages there should be where you can pick what you want to display.

3. All depends if you have the EK G2 (Generation2) pump which will work and I'm not sure if the other pump will need the mod or not. The only D5 pumps afaik that will work with the Aquaero PWM is the EK G2 and the Aquaero pumps themselves.

4. Not sure.


----------



## nycgtr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GTXJackBauer*
> 
> I'll try my best to answer some of your questions.
> 
> 1. I'm not sure but believe you might be able to. No point in taking it apart if you're going to need it now or later on as you said.
> 
> 2. Yes you can. In Aquasuite under the Aquaero tab, under Information Pages there should be where you can pick what you want to display.
> 
> 3. All depends if you have the EK G2 (Generation2) pump which will work and I'm not sure if the other pump will need the mod or not. The only D5 pumps afaik that will work with the Aquaero PWM is the EK G2 and the Aquaero pumps themselves.
> 
> 4. Not sure.


Guess I will have to try it. In order to use the screen portion I will have to cut a hole to mount it in my case which is why I prefer to kinda use it without the screen for now.


----------



## Aenra

I will admit to not having the patience to read 1200 pages (but i will eventually if no one answers, lol), so apologies if this has been covered.

- I want to control 21 fans, in 7 sets of 3 (each 3 joined into one 'channel', 7 'channels' total).

- I want each 'channel' capable of withstanding a 30ish W load.

- I want something akin to 'startboost', aka 'boost voltage', aka 'start voltage', just in case.

- I want pure PWM control, not voltage regulation.

- I want full PWM control (no signal impedance causing most fans to run at overly high speeds and/or be uncontrollable, aka what happens when you daisy chain them to unbuffered ""controllers"")

Can i do all the above with an AQ6 XT?

If the answer is yes, someone list me the accessories required please?

I'm only guesstimating as to the answer, which is why i'm asking. My thanks in advance


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *apw63*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> An aquaero with slave firmware has no USB functionality at all. You will have to put it into recovery mode by placing jumpers on the temperature sensor ports 5, 6, 7 and 8. Dot that before you power the device. When powered up wait till it beeps a few times, then turn it off again and remove the jumpers. Aftewards it will run in recovery mode and USB is enabled again.
> 
> When the red LED of Hubby is off, the device does not work so all of the connected devices will not work too of course. You could try to place the jumper to 2-3 (SATA) and to connect SATA for power.
> 
> 
> 
> Thank you Shoggy I understand about setting the slave back and reslaving. That is not my issue.
> 
> The issue is and yes I understand that no red led means no power to the hubby. The problem is even if the hubby is configured with the AC devices attached or not. and with the red led lit so devices receive power. AS dose not see any AC devices. It went from working to not working. only thing that changed was the usb hubby configuration. when configured as originally working, it will not work now. This is the issue, not understanding the red led on the hubby.
Click to expand...

Just as Shoogy said, attempt to power it from your psu. It sounds like you have a wiring issue.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nycgtr*
> 
> Quick question guys. I got an aquaero 6 pro, I got fed up with ai suite fan control. Tried to search a few of these but I need confirmation. Depending on the answers I either need to take apart my build to cut for or not.
> 
> #1) I assume I can take it apart and use it without the screen? ( I know there is a screen less version but I needed to be able to use the screen in the future or possibly now)
> 
> #2) Can the display be set to display the temps of multiple components and just leave it running as that? As in leaving it as a monitor that I can quickly look at for multiple probe temps. For example, I want it to display cpu temp/ cpu water temp/ gpu water temp/ gpu temp.
> 
> #3) I keep reading this d5 mod to connect it to d5 pwm pump and then posts saying it's not needed for certain pumps? I have 2 d5 pwm's I plan to use with this. One is a primochill d5 pwm the latest revision they sell, the other is an EK d5 pwm I believe this is the newer version as it says EK on the sticker back instead of liang.
> 
> #4) Can aquasuite output a info panel like aida64 does to another lcd? For example I have a mini lcd that displays the aida64 sensor panel.


1 yes 2 yes 3 ek yes you don't need, primo Chill you probably will
4 yes, it can but you have to program it, that is all I know...

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aenra*
> 
> I will admit to not having the patience to read 1200 pages (but i will eventually if no one answers, lol), so apologies if this has been covered.
> 1
> - I want to control 21 fans, in 7 sets of 3 (each 3 joined into one 'channel', 7 'channels' total).
> 2
> - I want each 'channel' capable of withstanding a 30ish W load.
> 3
> - I want something akin to 'startboost', aka 'boost voltage', aka 'start voltage', just in case.
> 4
> - I want pure PWM control, _not_ voltage regulation.
> 5
> - I want _full_ PWM control (no signal impedance causing most fans to run at overly high speeds and/or be uncontrollable, aka what happens when you daisy chain them to unbuffered ""controllers"")
> 
> Can i do all the above with an AQ6 XT?
> If the answer is yes, someone list me the accessories required please?
> 
> I'm only guesstimating as to the answer, which is why i'm asking. My thanks in advance


1 ok, 2 Aquarero 6s with at least 1 as a lt Slave
2 ok they will
3 i need more info as to what you are trying to do, and why to answer this, but if it is what I am thinking you mean, then yes
4 just make sure you get the aq6 not a 5.
5 what you are talking about has NOTHING to do with a fan controller, it has to do with how pwm works. It is a limitation of pwm NOT any 1 controller. The more fans you get, the smaller the rpm range you get.
That said you shouldn't really notice it on 3 fans

All the above said it assumes you use fans that conforms properly to intels pwm specs. There have been a few fans that recently are junk because they don't....


----------



## Aenra

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Aenra*
> 
> I will admit to not having the patience to read 1200 pages (but i will eventually if no one answers, lol), so apologies if this has been covered.
> 1- I want to control 21 fans, in 7 sets of 3 (each 3 joined into one 'channel', 7 'channels' total).
> 2- I want each 'channel' capable of withstanding a 30ish W load.
> 3- I want something akin to 'startboost', aka 'boost voltage', aka 'start voltage', just in case.
> 4- I want pure PWM control, not voltage regulation.
> 5- I want full PWM control (no signal impedance causing most fans to run at overly high speeds and/or be uncontrollable, aka what happens when you daisy chain them to unbuffered ""controllers"")
> 
> Can i do all the above with an AQ6 XT?
> If the answer is yes, someone list me the accessories required please?
> 
> 
> 
> 1 ok, 2 Aquarero 6s with at least 1 as a lt Slave
> 2 ok they will
> 3 i need more info as to what you are trying to do, and why to answer this, but if it is what I am thinking you mean, then yes
> 4 just make sure you get the aq6 not a 5.
> 5 what you are talking about has NOTHING to do with a fan controller, it has to do with how pwm works. It is a limitation of pwm NOT any 1 controller. The more fans you get, the smaller the rpm range you get. That said you shouldn't really notice it on 3 fans
> 
> All the above said it assumes you use fans that conforms properly to intels pwm specs. There have been a few fans that recently are junk because they don't....
Click to expand...

Thank you very much for replying, really appreciate it (+rep) 

Would i be pushing my luck if i did a follow-up?

You mention two AQs, one as slave. Just to be sure we're on the page here...

One AQ6 XT as main, one AQ6 LT Ultra as slave. I use the 4-pin aquabus cable, plug one end to 'Aquabus High' on the XT, the other end to 'Aquabus High' on the LT?

The reason i'm asking is because i do not want any software, at all. I want pure hardware mode, just them three buttons on the XT.

*edit: in regard to 5, depends on how you look at it. Am not about to go into semantics/whom is to blame, i just stick to the fact; fact being that if unbuffered, impedance issues can and do ensue. Fact also being that buffered is easy but costs more, so why do it if people pay anyway ^^


----------



## jura11

@Aenra

Hi there

You will need to setup Aquaero first time through the Aquasuite, this I recommend to do so

For controlling 21 fans, all these fans are same? How many fans you are planning to run?

If fans are from same company and same model(they can be 120 or 140mm fans just same model like ML120 or ML140) then I would suggest get few Aquacomputer SPLITTY9 and put all fans on one channel

I'm running 6* ML120 on channel 1 and on channel 2 I'm using 8* Phanteks PH-F120MP and fan control is good there

Hope this helps

Thanks, Jura


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aenra*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Aenra*
> 
> I will admit to not having the patience to read 1200 pages (but i will eventually if no one answers, lol), so apologies if this has been covered.
> 
> 1- I want to control 21 fans, in 7 sets of 3 (each 3 joined into one 'channel', 7 'channels' total).
> 
> 2- I want each 'channel' capable of withstanding a 30ish W load.
> 
> 3- I want something akin to 'startboost', aka 'boost voltage', aka 'start voltage', just in case.
> 
> 4- I want pure PWM control, _not_ voltage regulation.
> 
> 5- I want _full_ PWM control (no signal impedance causing most fans to run at overly high speeds and/or be uncontrollable, aka what happens when you daisy chain them to unbuffered ""controllers"")
> 
> Can i do all the above with an AQ6 XT?
> 
> If the answer is yes, someone list me the accessories required please?
> 
> 
> 
> 1 ok, 2 Aquarero 6s with at least 1 as a lt Slave
> 
> 2 ok they will
> 
> 3 i need more info as to what you are trying to do, and why to answer this, but if it is what I am thinking you mean, then yes
> 
> 4 just make sure you get the aq6 not a 5.
> 
> 5 what you are talking about has NOTHING to do with a fan controller, it has to do with how pwm works. It is a limitation of pwm NOT any 1 controller. The more fans you get, the smaller the rpm range you get. That said you shouldn't really notice it on 3 fans
> 
> All the above said it assumes you use fans that conforms properly to intels pwm specs. There have been a few fans that recently are junk because they don't....
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Thank you very much for replying, really appreciate it (+rep)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Would i be pushing my luck if i did a follow-up?
> 
> You mention two AQs, one as slave. Just to be sure we're on the page here...
> One AQ6 XT as main, one AQ6 LT Ultra as slave. I use the 4-pin aquabus cable, plug one end to 'Aquabus High' on the XT, the other end to 'Aquabus High' on the LT?
> The reason i'm asking is because i do not want any software, at all. I want pure hardware mode, just them three buttons on the XT.
> 
> *edit: in regard to 5, depends on how you look at it. Am not about to go into semantics/whom is to blame, i just stick to the fact; fact being that if unbuffered, impedance issues can and do ensue. Fact also being that buffered is easy but costs more, so why do it if people pay anyway ^^
Click to expand...

generally speaking yes, you will have to use aquasuite to set up - a " normal " setup you dont "have" to but it is far easier to do it on software, but still doable on the screen. but you want to slave a aquaero, you will have to flash it into slave, as well as said it is far easier to program though the program, however that said, the program is just a front end. all the programming is saved locally on the aquaero. the aquaero has its own CPU and operates 100% independent of the pc you can either leave it installed or completely uninstall it, that is assuming you DO NOT want to incorporate any software sensors ( CPU die temp, gpu die temps, vrm temps, ect ) which is 100% ok if you dont, as to the wiring, that is correct, once you have flashed it into slave mode


----------



## Aenra

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jura11*
> 
> @Aenra
> 
> Hi there
> 
> You will need to setup Aquaero first time through the Aquasuite, this I recommend to do so
> 
> For controlling 21 fans, all these fans are same? How many fans you are planning to run?
> 
> If fans are from same company and same model(they can be 120 or 140mm fans just same model like ML120 or ML140) then I would suggest get few Aquacomputer SPLITTY9 and put all fans on one channel
> 
> I'm running 6* ML120 on channel 1 and on channel 2 I'm using 8* Phanteks PH-F120MP and fan control is good there
> 
> Hope this helps
> 
> Thanks, Jura


If you have the patience, could you please expand on that?

I understand that i'll be missing most of its functions sans a USB connection+suite, but was under the impression that for fan controlling at least, i could escape it altogether?

(unless it really is the case when solo, and you meant i'd need it because of the extra LT?)

* edit: Mega Man ninjaed me, lol, i got my answer now so strike that. Thanks Mega 

As to the fans, not really sure of the brand yet, but definitely all the same yes; same brand, same model. Have seen the splitty gizmo, but i feared control issues (hence the buffer question); since you mention the MLs, is the OP no longer valid? They're specifically mentioned as not compatible :S

(and thanks for jumping in, you've helped me a number of times already)


----------



## Mega Man

iirc they were fixed by aqua computer by putting in a larger resister, a long long long time ago


----------



## Aenra

Ah, that's nice 

O.K., you've been really helpful guys, my thanks again.

If i can install the suite only so as to flash the LT, then uninstall it altogether, all fine by me, will do it externally, probably on her laptop, lol..

(i don't want software suites running on boot, i generally don't want complicated when simple suffices)

Will do some thread searching for 'slave', get me up to speed.


----------



## jura11

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aenra*
> 
> If you have the patience, could you please expand on that?
> I understand that i'll be missing most of its functions sans a USB connection+suite, but was under the impression that for fan controlling at least, i could escape it altogether?
> (unless it really is the case when solo, and you meant i'd need it because of the extra LT?)
> 
> * edit: Mega Man ninjaed me, lol, i got my answer now so strike that. Thanks Mega
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As to the fans, not really sure of the brand yet, but definitely all the same yes; same brand, same model. Have seen the splitty gizmo, but i feared control issues (hence the buffer question); since you mention the MLs, is the OP no longer valid? They're specifically mentioned as not compatible :S
> 
> (and thanks for jumping in, you've helped me a number of times already)


Hi there

You will be missing lots of things by not using USB and Aquasuite,if you will start to use Aquasuite you will understand what I mean,assume you want create PWM curve for fans,if yes then this is so easy to do so in Aquasuite and do you want have fans be based or controlled on what source(water,CPU temp etc or water or air delta T)?

I strongly suggest base yours fans on water temperature or water delta T(you will need water temperature sensor),this will be best as yours fans will not ramp up and you can create own profile or you can create few profiles,don't base yours fans on CPU or GPU temperatures,fans will ramp up

I think fans which do have issues with Aquaero has been BeQuiet Silent Wings 3 and I'm pretty sure ML series are OK there

Hope this helps

Thanks,Jura


----------



## jura11

Hi there

I wouldn't be without the Aquasuite and really recommend have look on this as first and then you will understand why I would recommend to have this SW running in background

Hope this helps

Thanks,Jura


----------



## Aenra

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jura11*
> 
> BeQuiet Silent Wings 3


I know about them, yeah, but to my limited knowledge, that is entirely a BeQuiet issue, not an AC one. You can hook the PWM version of the SW3s to any controller you want, the curve will still be bad. The 3pin version of the SW3s scales as should. With voltage of course.

As to the software, no offense to you all folks, but i'm probably from a different planet.. i did and do not understand the need for custom-made curves, special chartings, color choosings, or force-ramping a pump or fan up and down, up and down, 2847527 times a day. It's simply beyond me. To each their own, just being honest and saying that i'm not interested in any of that.

(if you're wondering then why the interest in an AQ6XT, well that's only for two reasons.. one, you go find me another PWM controller, two, you go find me one that also allows for flow rate reading. You go the separate brands route and add the cost of all the components up, the difference is ultimately minimal; so i'd rather get an AC product than multiple Chinese ones)

Again, no offense meant yeah? To each their own


----------



## Mega Man

None taken, i told you, it is easier to program, which i think you might, via software, but doable without. I have. And soon I will be running a aq without a pc, for my server room fan control, possibly even for the ac control..... all without software....


----------



## Aenra

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> None taken


Bless 

Been reading your previous posts here (still thread searching, lol), came across mention of the aquabus connection, from slave to master; made me wonder since if you set them up thus, you'd be left with no aquabus port unless you used a splitter.

So i downloaded the manual and been reading it, mentions the 4th pin of the aquabus cable as 'power' and how you can 'y' chain a 3pin aquabus device and a 4pin one. But what about daisy chaining two 4 pins? Is that possible?

For example in my case, looking at an Aquabus High leaving the master 6 XT and splitting to go into the 6 LT below it and to the pump adapter's flow sensor mps (which i believe also requires a 4pin aquabus connection)? That possible?


----------



## Mega Man

You can daisy chain as many as needed, with in the allowed amount of devices


----------



## Aenra

Ah cool, got worried seeing the 'power' distinction. Thanks again Mega


----------



## jura11

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aenra*
> 
> I know about them, yeah, but to my _limited_ knowledge, that is entirely a BeQuiet issue, not an AC one. You can hook the PWM version of the SW3s to any controller you want, the curve will still be bad. The 3pin version of the SW3s scales as should. With voltage of course.
> 
> As to the software, no offense to you all folks, but i'm probably from a different planet.. i did and do not understand the need for custom-made curves, special chartings, color choosings, or force-ramping a pump or fan up and down, up and down, 2847527 times a day. It's simply beyond me. To each their own, just being honest and saying that i'm not interested in any of that.
> 
> (if you're wondering then why the interest in an AQ6XT, well that's only for two reasons.. one, you go find me another PWM controller, two, you go find me one that also allows for flow rate reading. You go the separate brands route and add the cost of all the components up, the difference is ultimately minimal; so i'd rather get an AC product than multiple Chinese ones)
> 
> Again, no offense meant yeah? To each their own


Hi there

As you said,each have own and always will be like that

I'm pretty sure if you will do "Diva" mod on SW3 then PWM will be better

If you are really need to do these curves etc, its up to you what you want from yours AQ,but as above is possible to do so everything without

In OSX I can't use Aquasuite which is OK but still fans etc ramp up there based on my water delta T which is enough for me

Hope this helps

Thanks, Jura


----------



## BatteryKing

Hi Nikuk,
I have basically answered this question with the Aquaero 6 XT a few weeks ago on this thread and what I came up with does apply to your situation. First thing first, I am relying more on the Aquaero as I can set multiple values and adjust those for both alarm and emergency shutdown situations. I am using this on a system that is running 7/24 and I regularly step away while the system is in operation, which is why I went this route. But for your situation just having a NO relay trip will work for the solution I came up with. Actually you can use the NO side of your Aquaero 5 and the Koolance relay at the same time in the same circuit, just hook them parallel so if either trips, it will complete the circuit. (Just don't hook them in series.) The solution goes as follows:

One problem I had using the NC relay terminal on the Aquaero 6 XT is I hooked it directly in line with pin 16 (PS_ON#) on the 24-pin ATX power supply cable and once the power went off, the relay would close again and the computer would turn back on. You are using a NO relay, so you need some sort of extra logic that by default is NC and will open and stay open when your Koolance relay closes, even after it loses power and opens back up. For this I picked up a latching relay that simulated the latching function with a JK style flip flop (basically this is a frequency halving logic circuit). Here is the part I am actively using and have thoroughly tested:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00LW2VLS0/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

For a complete wiring description for installing this relay, here you go:
1. Hook the DC positive of the relay into pin 9 (5V SB [standby power]) on the 24-pin ATX power connector in a way where it splits off from the existing wire.
2. Hook the DC negative of the relay into any COM pin, such as pin 7 in the same splits off fashion.
3. Cut wire 16 in half. (This pin should be familiar from hot wiring a power supply to run your pump when filling the water loop.)
4. Hook the power supply side of wire 16 into COM on the relay.
5. Hook the motherboard side of wire 16 into NC on the relay.
6. Hook the supplied external trigger wire into your Koolance relay, extending the cable if necessary. (This is also where you could hook your Aquaero 5 in in parallel, being careful to use pins 1 and 3, which is different than the Aquaero 6 for some reason.)
7. As I soldered up these wires close to the power supply, I mounted the latching relay on top of the power supply with the help of Velcro tape and spacers for easy dismounting (and some electrical insulation for this little board) and with the built in switch facing out for easy access once the side panel to the case is removed.

For a description of how this has worked for me in practice:
1. When I turn on the system (cold boot, flipped the power switch in back), the relay is always closed and stays closed and so the system works normally.
2. When an emergency situation is detected and an emergency shutdown initiated, this relay is fed a closed signal (the "external trigger switch" is simply closed, no extra voltage added, no extra resistence, so just using a NO relay and nothing else is perfect) and the computer shuts off immediately. The computer stays off.
3. After popping the cover on the system to inspect and get to the point where I am ready to turn the system back on, I have two options:
a. Press the button on the relay and the system will start back up. This is not guaranteed to restart the system, but if it does not you can press the power button on the front of the case and the system should come up.
b. Flip the power switch in the back (sometimes happens anyway if a problem is found) and flip back on at some later point in time after the standby power caps have completely drained out. This will bring everything back to a reset state and so the system will start normally unless things are still broke or a key sensor is not working properly and trips the relay again. (Of course you probably want to fix the later anyway before really bringing the system back up, so just the behavior you most likely want if you are a sane person.)

Another option is to try to hook the Koolance relay to the front power switch in parallel with it, but this may not go as planned and there is a chance the system will stay on and damage will occur. The method I described above is good enough for me to trust thousands of $ of hardware to it in an unattended fashion and I have have high confidence in it after extensive testing (and sensor and other glitches adding to this testing unexpectedly).


----------



## ProRules




----------



## GTXJackBauer

Nice block you got there. Hope to see some finishing pics when its fully operational.


----------



## nikuk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BatteryKing*
> 
> Hi Nikuk,
> I have basically answered this question with the Aquaero 6 XT a few weeks ago on this thread and what I came up with does apply to your situation. First thing first, I am relying more on the Aquaero as I can set multiple values and adjust those for both alarm and emergency shutdown situations. I am using this on a system that is running 7/24 and I regularly step away while the system is in operation, which is why I went this route. But for your situation just having a NO relay trip will work for the solution I came up with. Actually you can use the NO side of your Aquaero 5 and the Koolance relay at the same time in the same circuit, just hook them parallel so if either trips, it will complete the circuit. (Just don't hook them in series.) The solution goes as follows:
> 
> One problem I had using the NC relay terminal on the Aquaero 6 XT is I hooked it directly in line with pin 16 (PS_ON#) on the 24-pin ATX power supply cable and once the power went off, the relay would close again and the computer would turn back on. You are using a NO relay, so you need some sort of extra logic that by default is NC and will open and stay open when your Koolance relay closes, even after it loses power and opens back up. For this I picked up a latching relay that simulated the latching function with a JK style flip flop (basically this is a frequency halving logic circuit). Here is the part I am actively using and have thoroughly tested:
> https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00LW2VLS0/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
> 
> For a complete wiring description for installing this relay, here you go:
> 1. Hook the DC positive of the relay into pin 9 (5V SB [standby power]) on the 24-pin ATX power connector in a way where it splits off from the existing wire.
> 2. Hook the DC negative of the relay into any COM pin, such as pin 7 in the same splits off fashion.
> 3. Cut wire 16 in half. (This pin should be familiar from hot wiring a power supply to run your pump when filling the water loop.)
> 4. Hook the power supply side of wire 16 into COM on the relay.
> 5. Hook the motherboard side of wire 16 into NC on the relay.
> 6. Hook the supplied external trigger wire into your Koolance relay, extending the cable if necessary. (This is also where you could hook your Aquaero 5 in in parallel, being careful to use pins 1 and 3, which is different than the Aquaero 6 for some reason.)
> 7. As I soldered up these wires close to the power supply, I mounted the latching relay on top of the power supply with the help of Velcro tape and spacers for easy dismounting (and some electrical insulation for this little board) and with the built in switch facing out for easy access once the side panel to the case is removed.
> 
> For a description of how this has worked for me in practice:
> 1. When I turn on the system (cold boot, flipped the power switch in back), the relay is always closed and stays closed and so the system works normally.
> 2. When an emergency situation is detected and an emergency shutdown initiated, this relay is fed a closed signal (the "external trigger switch" is simply closed, no extra voltage added, no extra resistence, so just using a NO relay and nothing else is perfect) and the computer shuts off immediately. The computer stays off.
> 3. After popping the cover on the system to inspect and get to the point where I am ready to turn the system back on, I have two options:
> a. Press the button on the relay and the system will start back up. This is not guaranteed to restart the system, but if it does not you can press the power button on the front of the case and the system should come up.
> b. Flip the power switch in the back (sometimes happens anyway if a problem is found) and flip back on at some later point in time after the standby power caps have completely drained out. This will bring everything back to a reset state and so the system will start normally unless things are still broke or a key sensor is not working properly and trips the relay again. (Of course you probably want to fix the later anyway before really bringing the system back up, so just the behavior you most likely want if you are a sane person.)
> 
> Another option is to try to hook the Koolance relay to the front power switch in parallel with it, but this may not go as planned and there is a chance the system will stay on and damage will occur. The method I described above is good enough for me to trust thousands of $ of hardware to it in an unattended fashion and I have have high confidence in it after extensive testing (and sensor and other glitches adding to this testing unexpectedly).


This is fantastic insight, and exactly what I was looking for. Thank you very much.


----------



## Aenra

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BatteryKing*
> 
> One problem I had using the NC relay terminal on the Aquaero 6 XT is I hooked it directly in line with pin 16 (PS_ON#) on the 24-pin ATX power supply cable and once the power went off, the relay would close again and the computer would turn back on.


May be self-evident to you, but may i ask what you meant by saying "the computer would turn back on"?

I mean, if it shuts down, it takes user input to power it on again; did you mean it would restart on its own? 'Cause that doesn't make sense to me, but that's why i'm asking 

[i do not own an AQ 5/6 yet, am still collecting information; the whole emergency shutdown procedure interests me]


----------



## nikuk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aenra*
> 
> May be self-evident to you, but may i ask what you meant by saying "the computer would turn back on"?
> I mean, if it shuts down, it takes user input to power it on again; did you mean it would restart on its own? 'Cause that doesn't make sense to me, but that's why i'm asking
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> _
> _


Its probably not related to the Aquaero as much as it is a BIOS setting. In the event of a power failure (which is effectively what we're using here) once power is restored the PC starts up. I use this very setting in the machine I'm referring to in this thread, and that is why the latching relay is a very nice option - it would "latch" the circuit open until reset by the user, preventing a PC restart.
Most motherboards have this option / setting in BIOS.


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## Aenra

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nikuk*
> 
> Its probably not related to the Aquaero as much as it is a BIOS setting. In the event of a power failure (which is effectively what we're using here) once power is restored the PC starts up.


Ah, but then we're missing the basics and moving on to the hair splitting.. all recent mobos have an option where power back can (on) and cannot (off) re-power the PC automatically.

So assuming one has that on 'off' (no auto-power), would the Aquaero relay not be enough?

Just trying to understand here.

* and thanks for replying


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## BatteryKing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aenra*
> 
> May be self-evident to you, but may i ask what you meant by saying "the computer would turn back on"?
> I mean, if it shuts down, it takes user input to power it on again; did you mean it would restart on its own? 'Cause that doesn't make sense to me, but that's why i'm asking
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> _
> _


So short answer is the "emergency shutdown" logic would trip, the computer would shut off, and then a few seconds later it would turn back on by itself. I suspect the issue is I left standby power alone and so the motherboard was still in a state where it would turn itself back on. It may also be the board is configured to "recover from power loss event" and there is no option to change that with this board. (My previous motherboard in this system had that, but that board died and was old anyway, so no going back. I never tested cutting both the POWER_ON and 5V SB to the motherboard, so if somebody else comes across this, this is another possible avenue to possibly explore, though I don't see a point in it as you need another relay either way. This lead to a yo-yo scenario where when the system came back on, by default the Aquaero suppresses alarms for 20 seconds (this value can be changed) and then the system would shut off again only to turn itself back on (no user intervention) and the cycle would repeat.

Aquacomputer makes two parts that can help with hooking up with the relay. One is a 24-pin pass-through cable with a standby plug for the Aquaero 5 (the Aquaero 6 does not have a plug like this) and a green wire for pin 16 (POWER_ON) that you can cut and then put onto the relay. This is artical no. 53047. I did not go this route for aesthetic reasons, plus I wanted to have everything done next the power supply and out of view of the motherboard chamber and so did my own wiring and soldering. A second part that will allow you to hook the relay into the power switch on your computer is artical no. 53217. This second option is probably the easiest, but I did not go this route either for reasons I will explain below if you are interested.

So to make a short story long, here are some considerations I put into going for the extra latching relay in addition to what is listed above (plus the extra relay only set my back $6, so nothing really):

Something I figured would work most of the time is to provide a 2 second pulse to the power button header on the motherboard. I have found though a 2 second pulse only works if the system is running properly and the OS is not hung. This is due to the OS being notified that the power button has been pressed with the default bios configuration (at least this is my understanding whether completely true or not) and so the OS can decide what to do such as ignore, suspend / sleep, orderly shutdown, or instant off. (Some motherboards also can be setup for instant off, but this is usually not what you want.) I have had computers go into a state a number of times where a 2 second pulse will not shut down the system, so I am a bit leery of this option, especially if the problem is coolant is leaking onto the motherboard and I want the system to shut down hopefully before it bursts into flames like what happened to one of my friends a few months back.

A more reliable way to shut off the computer is to provide a 10 second pulse to the power button header on the motherboard. One thing I did not like about this option is say the pump broke or say I mixed the wrong metals in my loop and did not realize it and this lead to corrosion and a subsequent clog, I want the system to turn itself off as fast as possible. An extra 10 seconds can mean a lot, especially if the system is at full load. There was also a case a long time ago (that I kind of vaguely remember now) where I remember smelling the smell of burnt electronics and the system was unresponsive.
Pressing and holding the power button in front did nothing. I had to reach around and flip the switch in back. So a second concern is say coolant is dripping onto the motherboard and the motherboard stays powered on, but is otherwise screwed, I need a way to make sure the computer will shutoff, hopefully before the motherboard dries out enough to reach ignition. (Say I am at work all day and the system is cranking away and develops this leak early in the morning and ends up bone dry before I make it home at the end of the day.) Again a few months back one of my friend's motherboard reached ignition temperature and burst into flames, so it can happen.

Anyways if you are interested in what exactly caused the fire a few months back, my friend had some USB device plugged into the front of his box and that plug was plugged into the USB headers at the bottom of the motherboard with the motherboard mounted vertically. Another family member tripped over the USB cord and caused a short in the USB cable. Even though only 5V is running through the USB cable, the power seems to come from the 5V SB pin off of the power supply with no circuit breakers and so is always on as long as the switch in back is on and all, so a large enough current went through the motherboard to cause ignition of the motherboard PCB right next to the USB headers at the bottom of the board. The system stayed running as apparently this was not enough power draw to trip the power protection circuit in the power supply. My friend in a hurry to put it out, grabbed a standard issue ABC dry chemical fire extinguisher and sprayed it all over the inside of the running (and burning) computer. In addition to the computer being heavily damaged, there was this corrosive yellow residue all over everything that was hard to get off and probably is still coating some spots on the few parts that survived this incident. The lessons I gathered from this the sooner you can get the computer off, the better, and keep an electronics friendly fire extinguisher around. (I have a CO2 based one near my main computer setup.)

Something else I learned and touched on above is USB in desktop PCs (at least on my system with the Aquaero 6 XT in it) always has 5V standby power going to it. When I came across the issue with the relay closing, I thought maybe there was a blip in this USB power delivery when the system shut off, but I found that the USB 5V power was always there. I even did some cable modification to get power to the Aquaero 6 XT straight from the standby power pin, but this changed nothing. I suspect what is happening instead is the relay is driven by 12V power and so switches off when main power is cut as only 5V SB and a 5V pullup on the POWER_ON pin from the PSU remain (with the POWER_ON wire temporarily interrupted by the relay). Whatever the case, I had no way to keep the computer off in an emergency situation with just the supplied Aquacomputing hardware. This is where the 5V based latching relay came into play as I could power it off of 5V SB power directly and it would keep its state until the filter caps driving 5V SB drained all the way after flipping the switch in the back. In other words it shuts off the computer (the motherboard can be completely hosed, it doesn't matter, it will just work) and the machine stays off.

If it helps any the last major hardware failure I had was a power cap on the video card blowing out. When this happened I heard a loud bang that my neighbor mistook for gunfire (but no, it was just my computer), then a few seconds later the computer just shut off (I suspect the power protection circuitry tripped), and then a few seconds after that the smell of burnt electronics made it to my nose. So while this left me with a bit of a sinking feeling inside (and my neighbor wondering if the neighborhood is not what it used to be), really that was a pretty good failure mode. Much better then back int the day (when they still used lead based solder) when I took apart the computer afterwards and found the solder joints had melted and oozed across the board, causing cascading short circuits and exploded capacitor juice marks all over and little chunks of ceramic material with tiny wires hanging out laying on the bottom of the case.

By the way, maybe somebody wants to start a Kickstarter campaign to make magnetic USB connectors? I know my friends owning newer MacBooks with only USB C would love this (as they get power from USB C only and the old magnetic power connector that saved them numerous times in the past is now gone) and it may prevent your PC from bursting into flames one day if a USB device gets tripped over and causes a short.


----------



## Aenra

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BatteryKing*
> 
> always has 5V standby power going to it


Yeah, that is something i only recently found out about myself. Mistakenly, i was under the impression that turning 'off' the USB charging related options would kill this, but nuh 

As to the rest, thank you very much for the detailed reply. Was not aware you're currently lacking this BIOS option (power back on/off); makes sense now.


----------



## zerophase

My MPS flow 400 has stopped giving a flow reading. I tried updating aquasuite to 2017-3 to see if that would fix the issue, but mps is no longer showing up as a connected aquabus device. In 2017-2 MPS was showing up as a connected aquabus device. Currently, farbwerk and the Real time clock show up as connected. How should I go about troubleshooting if my mps is dead or not?


----------



## nycgtr

So I got my aquaero 6 pro today and I noticed that when plugged in, nothing happens no display no sign it's even being powered on. Its not a powersupply issue as I know this psu is working just fine. I tried multiple molex connections and nothing. I tried connecting the usb cable to the pc and then powering it on with the molex connected and still just nothing. Am I missing something or is this just dead. Oddly a fan plugged into the aquero does start at full speed the moment the unit receives power.


----------



## Mega Man

I dont see how it is dead, if it it's working need more info
Nothing comes up on the screen ?


----------



## nycgtr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> I dont see how it is dead, if it it's working need more info
> Nothing comes up on the screen ?


Screen does nothing. No reaction at all to being plugged in. Aquasuite doesn't detect it, the only sign that it's not completely dead is if I plug a fan in and the fan spins. Pressing the buttons does nothing either.


----------



## Mega Man

Wait for Shoogy


----------



## Aenra

Had one more question if anyone can indulge me? 

(and spare Shoggy another PM, lol)

Can you set the whole relay/flow rate alarm/PC shut down thing without use of the Aquasuite software? Like straight from the device/remote?


----------



## Mega Man

Yes, just More difficult to set up, but once set up, it acts independently


----------



## Ashcroft

Aenra
7 pwm channels is not possible without running dual Aquaeros. Each Aq6 can run 4 pwm channels and several voltage control channels with extra hardware.

Start boost is not needed with pwm because the device outputs full 12v at all times besides a 0 output.

The Aquaero has the best pwm control that I'm aware of. If only 3 devices are being used on a channel there should be no issues.

Only you know what you have planned and the requirements for it but generally simpler is better. Are 7 fully independent channels really needed. Each Aq6 can only provide 4 independent curve controllers or a larger number of simpler controllers.
How different would you really want these channels to be running. I normally have everything slow and quiet or up to the best noise cooling balance and that takes minimal controllers, with perhaps different fans set for different min and Max settings so they run at different speeds on the same controller.

It's easy to spend a lot of money and time setting up a complex system that in the end works no better than something much simpler. I'm of the belief that 1 Aq6 is all most people really need.

Programming an Aquaero using only the 3 hardware buttons is possible but very onerous. I have used a laptop to program one in a test setup that wasn't going to be connected to a PC full time and it saved a lot of bother. You can just hook it up when needed and remove when not. I can't recommend that option highly enough.


----------



## Aenra

Thanks to both of you for replying, gave rep as always 

@Ashcroft my situation is as complex as my character dictates it to be, lol.. one assumes this answers everything ^^

In principle you're absolutely right of course. As i mentioned earlier on here, i'm not interested in custom curves, graphs, colors, software that connects to software that connects to mobo that connects to PCH that connects to CPU and so on. Let alone killing my pumps and fans by force-ramping them on and off all day long. Redundant; for me of course.

I do have an interest in just two things:

- having an emergency shutdown if the pump dies on me and having it without software (one less thing to rely upon, give me more of that please).

- having 7 separate channels with 3 PWM fans on each, due to the chassis, components, rads and loop order setup. Am saying "interest" because i suppose i could do with a 6+6+4+5 setup and as such resort to a single AQ6, call it a day. But i'd prefer to have full control, which in my case would necessitate the 7x3 scenario.

As to the start boost, that's in the off chance i resort to voltage controlled fans, which yes, are still a perfectly viable option for me; knowing the AQ6 XT can handle both types properly is a great thing to know. Helps justify the pricing, lol

(am currently doing my reading, got a buckload of questions the manual does not address.. trying to cover most on my own so that i don't need to ask Shoggy, am saving him for 'emergencies' ^^)

* edit: By voltage control + additional hardware i assume you mean the Poweradjusts, right? Have thought of these, but it's mostly fear.. time goes by, we get fewer and fewer voltage controlled fans and i don't see that changing, so i'm hesitant to invest in those. Am thinking that while a dual AQ6 setup costs a lot more, it will also last me a helluva lot longer.


----------



## nikuk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ashcroft*
> 
> Programming an Aquaero using only the 3 hardware buttons is possible but very onerous. I have used a laptop to program one in a test setup that wasn't going to be connected to a PC full time and it saved a lot of bother. You can just hook it up when needed and remove when not. I can't recommend that option highly enough.


It is my understanding that, once the AQ6 is programmed, you only need aquasuite for monitoring.
In other words: Once you've programmed the AQ6 and it performs as you wish, you can uninstall Aquasuite entirely.

Is that not correct?


----------



## war4peace

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nikuk*
> 
> It is my understanding that, once the AQ6 is programmed, you only need aquasuite for monitoring.
> In other words: Once you've programmed the AQ6 and it performs as you wish, you can uninstall Aquasuite entirely.
> 
> Is that not correct?


Correct.
But in the age of fast CPUs, large storage and bucketloads of RAM I really couldn't find any justification for not having Aquasuite at least installed on the PC, if not set to load at Windows startup.


----------



## Aenra

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *war4peace*
> 
> in the age of fast CPUs, large storage and bucketloads of RAM I really couldn't find any justification


It's simultaneously the age of multiple apps, startups, apps to startup the apps, help apps to control the apps that dictate the main apps' action. Along with all the bloatware 99% leave untouched 

So smarts aside, it's up to the user; if one pays to run a Win10 environment as fast/slow as they did a Win7 one (albeit with 2847652 more apps), power to them. Others may pay so that their upgraded environment has a significant performance boost; needed or not.

[as with all opinions, so and here, to each their own needless to say]


----------



## war4peace

True again.
Personally, as a tinkerer, I prefer Aquasuite always on.


----------



## alexwill22

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nikuk*
> 
> It is my understanding that, once the AQ6 is programmed, you only need aquasuite for monitoring.
> In other words: Once you've programmed the AQ6 and it performs as you wish, you can uninstall Aquasuite entirely.
> 
> Is that not correct?


Same here, I just use the software to set everything up and don't use it anymore unless I need to make a rare change. I just use hwinfo to monitor the temps from the Aquaero.


----------



## Aenra

That's even better to know 

* edit: Regarding the 'aquaero power connect - 24 pin ATX standby power / ATX break', as seen here:

https://shop.aquacomputer.de/product_info.php?products_id=1636

I could potentially have an issue depending on the PSU right? What with the keys' order not being universal, right?

Perhaps it would be better to forgo and configure the relay on the Mercury's power switch?

(if i'm missing something obvious, by all means educate me, lol)


----------



## BatteryKing

To provide my answer to two questions here:

1. Cutting into ATX power connector - You can buy the Aquacomputer supplied part, cut the green wire and hook it in to the relay. The ATX standard by definition is always the same on the motherboard side. However it is not always the same or easy to figure out on the power supply side where I cut. As I have a fully modular power supply, I put my digital multi-meter into continuity test mode with the disconnected 24-pin ATX power cable and traced back from the motherboard side of the connector to the power supply side and then cut into the cable. If your 24-pin cable from the power supply is not modular and especially if you have no reliable way to know which wire is which on the power supply side, just use the Aquacomputer supplied cable. Don't risk ruining an otherwise perfectly good power supply. Personally I also read through the ATX specification before doing this, so I had a high degree of confidence that I was cutting into the right wires and my plan was solid. Also I have done a great deal of electronics wiring and soldering in the past, so I also had a high degree of confidence I would have a solid implementation of the theory I had going in. If your confidence / setup is not suitable on any of the above, I would not recommend the mod I made, but instead stick with the Aquacomputing cable. At this I would try both the 24-pin ATX cable and if you cannot get your system to stay down (but instead get the yo-yo effect I got and cannot find a BIOS based way to work around with your current board), switch over the the motherboard power button cable.

2. Autonomous use of the Aquaero 6 XT - If you have the LT version of these controllers, then you have to have the software running on your PC as the LT has no display while the XT does have display and a rather nice one at that. The primary operating system I am using for this system is Linux so a primary goal for me was autonomous operation as I do not plan on having a Windows VM running all of the time. As I have been a long time user of VMware Workstation and it would be an effort for me to switch to something more open source, VMware Workstation has great compatibility with USB device handling with VMs. I have heard not so great stories about other VM managers in regards to USB handling. So I suppose another thing I can confirm is if you run Linux as your primary OS and have Windows 10 in a VMware bottle, you can setup and monitor the Aquaero 6 XT just fine. Once done configuring, shut off the VM and periodically check the display on the Aquaero [5/6] XT for proper operation of components as you can setup the display to show just about anything. I also have audible alarms set so I will be alerted if there is a problem requiring my attention and auto-shutdown in case of a potentially hardware damaging situation is detected. One thing I did was to raise the standby LCD back-light brightness slightly so in case of a detected fault triggering a shutdown, I can more easily glean what happened from the display. This autonomous operation is also nice if a problem is detected at startup as by definition the PC's OS is not fully operational and so software monitoring and control cannot happen. When my flow sensor malfunctioned, the machine just shutoff per Aquaero 6 XT programming. I could see the sensor readings telling me the flow was not detected when I timed the power on to sync up with the display screen rotation on the Aquaero 6 XT so that the flow screen would come up before the 20 second ignore alarm condition setting elapsed and shut the system off again. This seems like the most sane and practical thing to me because in the event there really was no flow instead of a malfunctioning sensor, you don't want the system to stay on and overheat, especially before you figure out that is the problem. Better have the system know and keep shutting itself off until you figure out what is going on and can safely rectify the issue. Anyway you can always unplug from the relay and either leave it open or hot wire on when you are confident enough doing so will not lead to system damage.

To sum all this up, running this on a Linux box where I will not be running the software all of the time and when I do it will be in a VMware based Windows VM, this has been a great solution for me and I am extremely happy with it as I have been able to configure it with practical and sane options and have ways to monitor and diagnose issues without loading up the VM, but instead just look at the display and hear any alarms you set go off when there is a problem.

As a side note, I think it would be really cool to have a Linux version of this especially as super computers and data centers in general have been doing more and more water cooling as of late and these tend to be the realm of Linux, not Windows. The thought would be to have something like this hook in with the fairly independent management subsystem so the health of the cooling system can be monitored on a per node basis and these expensive supercomputer and server nodes can be automatically shut down and diagnostic information sent back to an operator in case of a problem detected. I have actually come across more than one incident where cooling system failures in data centers have caused billions of $ in losses, at least when you add in the cost of projects that died due to the hardware damage and lost productivity / revenue during extended outages due to this hardware damage. So getting better monitoring and protection in these data centers, especially as people try to move away from the old forced air A/C model and on to more efficient models such as direct water cooling of components inside of nodes, this seems like it is already a big thing that is under served and the Aquacomputer hardware is pretty amazing stuff that should have real application here with the proper tweaks for this specialized environment.


----------



## nycgtr

So before I try this might as well ask if anyone else has. Can I use the screen from an aquaero 6 pro onto a 6 LT. I see the pins are there on the LT.


----------



## Aenra

Thank you very much @BatteryKing 

See that's the good thing with asking, lol.. i stupidly thought it connected to the PSU rather than the mobo side. Smart huh? ^^


----------



## Ashcroft

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aenra*
> 
> Thanks to both of you for replying, gave rep as always
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> @Ashcroft my situation is as complex as my character dictates it to be, lol.. one assumes this answers everything ^^
> In principle you're absolutely right of course. As i mentioned earlier on here, i'm not interested in custom curves, graphs, colors, software that connects to software that connects to mobo that connects to PCH that connects to CPU and so on. Let alone killing my pumps and fans by force-ramping them on and off all day long. Redundant; for me of course.
> 
> I _do_ have an interest in just two things:
> - having an emergency shutdown if the pump dies on me and having it without software (one less thing to rely upon, give me more of that please).
> - having 7 separate channels with 3 PWM fans on each, due to the chassis, components, rads and loop order setup. Am saying "interest" because i suppose i could do with a 6+6+4+5 setup and as such resort to a single AQ6, call it a day. But i'd prefer to have full control, which in my case would necessitate the 7x3 scenario.
> 
> As to the start boost, that's in the off chance i resort to voltage controlled fans, which yes, are still a perfectly viable option for me; knowing the AQ6 XT can handle both types properly is a great thing to know. Helps justify the pricing, lol
> 
> (am currently doing my reading, got a buckload of questions the manual does not address.. trying to cover most on my own so that i don't need to ask Shoggy, am saving him for 'emergencies' ^^)
> 
> * edit: By voltage control + additional hardware i assume you mean the Poweradjusts, right? Have thought of these, but it's mostly fear.. time goes by, we get fewer and fewer voltage controlled fans and i don't see that changing, so i'm hesitant to invest in those. Am thinking that while a dual AQ6 setup costs a lot more, it will also last me a helluva lot longer.


Yep that's right, the poweradjusts are the extra hardware I was referring to. Seven channels is easy with a few of them, it's just they are VC only because Aquacomputer believes a PWM version doesn't make sense.

For independent shut down the Aq6 is great. Properly implemented it can function fine while the PC is blue screening or whatever.


----------



## BatteryKing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ashcroft*
> 
> Yep that's right, the poweradjusts are the extra hardware I was referring to. Seven channels is easy with a few of them, it's just they are VC only because Aquacomputer believes a PWM version doesn't make sense.
> 
> For independent shut down the Aq6 is great. Properly implemented it can function fine while the PC is blue screening or whatever.


Here are a couple of things I found interesting on this topic:
1. In the manual, it does say you can slave one and exactly 1 Aquaero 6 LT off of an Aquaero 6 XT through the Aquabus interface. This would get you 8 PWM fan headers, a display in front, and a second, lower cost Aquaero 6 (LT) mounted somewhere inside your case hopefully closer to the things you want to hook it into and less need for extension wires, at least if you have a large case. In a big enough case (such as my Caselabs SMA8 case), something like this could be mounted to the back side chamber somewhere in order to maximize cleanliness of cable routing and keeping the motherboard chamber as uncluttered as possible. The Aquaero 6 can do both PWM and voltage controlled. I also wish as mentioned that Aquacomputing would make a dedicated PWM only multi-controller with maybe some temperature headers where all of the devices could be either independently controlled or grouped as necessary. However their closest product, the Splitty 9 is just a simple fan hub when used in PWM fan mode, not this fancier thing I would like to have. Their next closest option, slaving the Aquaero 6 LT off of an Aquaero 6 XT is necessarily costlier because it has all kinds of functionality you probably don't need, especially if you are just trying to control a bunch of fans and are looking for something more advanced than a simple PWM hub.

One extra thing I think is worth mentioning is I have had issues with some PWM fans generating a rather noticeable and annoying PWM whine. The high static pressure Corsair fans on my Windows box for example seem quieter to me at 100% throttle (as the PWM whine finally goes away) than say 60% throttle due to this PWM whine issue. (It could just be I can hear some of these higher frequencies very well where I am starting to lose it more in the mid-range. I also have been known to fly large scale electric R/C helicopters which use large BLDC motors and so know quite well what PWM whine sounds like.) I ended up using Noctua sine wave based PWM fans in my next build and that has been working great with some caveats. When I setup these Noctua fans environment wise more like I have in my Windows box, they seem to match the quietness of the Corsair fans in terms of fan blade air turbulence based noise quite well, except no PWM whine, just quietness at lower speeds and so I consider this great candidates for someone who wants to run there fans over a wide speed range and at times have an ultra-quiet system whenever it makes sense automatically. The trouble I ran into with the Noctua fans is either put a fan grate for air intake into the case directly in front of the fan, basically no space at all and Noctua fans in push/pull configuration on radiator with all 8 fans controlled through one PWM fan hub and this would get really noisy real quick as fan speed was ramped up. Apparently these fans are designed around a particular usage scenario where the space in front of them is open and no air is getting pushed onto them as this seems to cause the airflow over the blades to become turbulent and thus odd noises that remind me of the blade barking noises while doing extreme (~10g and high speed) maneuvers on my large scale R/C helicopter except if this sound is multiplied over many concurrent blades instead of the two main rotor blades on my R/C helicopter. I currently have this compensated for by removing the pull side fans and recessing the push side fans so there is over 2cm of space between them and the air intake grate. In this respect I am getting better results with one row of fans than I did with two rows as I can ramp up the fans to much higher speeds before the sound gets audible, more than compensating for the loss of fans on one side. I suspect if in addition to keeping the fans away from air intake grates you also either spun the pull side fans faster through independent control so their effective angle of attack was shallower or just used high airflow fans on the pull side where I used high static pressure fans on both sides, these odd and loud noises would go away while boosting cooling performance beyond what I have been able to achieve so far. Actually my Windows PC uses high airflow 200mm fans after the 360mm rad with 120mm high static pressure fans on the push side and at least this combination of fans seems to be doing well in terms good sound performance considering the 120mm fans are fixed at 100% throttle.

While I mention issues with the PWM based fans I have been using above, there seems to be a bit of a trade-off with voltage controlled ones. On the plus side I don't think I have ever heard a high frequency whine come out of them, at least when used with a half decent voltage controller. The minus side hangs around issues of difficulty getting them to spin and stay spinning at lower speeds. The Aquaero does provide a boost option to get these fans to kick over. There are still things such as with my Noctua fans I have been able to get a range out of them from around 250 RPM to 2,000 RPM reliably in testing even though they are rated for 500 - 2000 RPM and of course I set the lower limit higher than the tested validated lower limit in case my test cause does not work out in the long run. A voltage controlled fan is probably never going to get such a response range, at least not reliably. You will jam a voltage controlled fan at a much high target RPM relatively lowering the effective range of the fan, especially if the bearings are no longer in mint condition.

Autonomous shutdown with the Aquaero [5/6] should be well documented on this forum now.


----------



## Aenra

@Ashcroft The thing with poweradjusts is that all put together (PAs x3 + cooling backplates x3 + bezel), they sum up to 166,3 euro.

A 6XT goes for 179,9 euro, an LT for 99,9 euro.

So even if i didn't mind the lack of PWM, no point for me. Of course, if one only required one of them..

Regarding the maglevs, if you're hearing noise below 100%, chances are you're not driving them well; they need a constant 12v for the levitation patent to be in effect, below that and you get coil whine (unrelated to the pulse this, am not talking RPM). If you're driving a lot of them, try with only a couple, see if it persists.


----------



## Ashcroft

When used as a slave the Aq6 lt is not PWM capable. It is voltage control only. The slave takes the Aquabus addresses and function of four poweradjusts.

Correction: this is no longer true. The slave is now pwm capable.

It would be great if PWM was possible with the slave, or even if they just released a PWM poweradjust. To my understanding Aquacomputer believes that that many pwm channels isn't needed because PWM can be extended with splitters so easily.
I'm sure the demand is there though. It may be that they think PWM poweradjusts would cut into the Aquaero market too much. I only use two channels and could use just one if need be.


----------



## Shoggy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ashcroft*
> 
> When used as a slave the Aq6 lt is not PWM capable. It is voltage control only.


That is not correct anymore. The LT as slave can also use PWM. Can't remember when this was changed but it works since a longer while now.


----------



## poulk

Hi all!
Last week i got some big troubles with my aquero 5 xt.
After i place aquasuite 2017 -2 software in load at boot, i got the situation where aquasuite crash at the start and i can't do anything about it.
I try to uninstall it and make new install after it. But i simply can't install it. Installation just doesn't start (after double click nothing happen).
And for more today my AQ5 gone totally mad. The system starts with all fan working on 100%. Is this end of AQ?
Any ideas that i can do?
p.s. OS: Windows 10 pro with the latest update (creator fall)


----------



## zeroibis

Like others I also wish there was a way to add extra PWM ports without needing an entire second aquero.


----------



## Leonko

yeah, im next in row


----------



## ruffhi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *poulk*
> 
> Hi all!
> Last week i got some big troubles with my aquero 5 xt.
> After i place aquasuite 2017 -2 software in load at boot, i got the situation where aquasuite crash at the start and i can't do anything about it.
> I try to uninstall it and make new install after it. But i simply can't install it. Installation just doesn't start (after double click nothing happen).
> And for more today my AQ5 gone totally mad. The system starts with all fan working on 100%. Is this end of AQ?
> Any ideas that i can do?
> p.s. OS: Windows 10 pro with the latest update (creator fall)


There was this post from earlier ...
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bogga*
> 
> If any of you have aquasuite crashing on start... uninstall the latest windows update. I started the computer this morning, but aquasuite crashed immediately and there was no way I could get it to start. I started thinking what I changed lately but couldn't come up with anything. Then it hit me that Windows updated before I went to sleep last night...
> 
> Uninstall this and it works as it should again


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zeroibis*
> 
> Like others I also wish there was a way to add extra PWM ports without needing an entire second aquero.


I dont get this, a power adj is 40-50. For 2 assuming they were pwm compatable... they would be at or near the same amount of an lt. That said they finally made a 6lt, i don't understand how you can complain esp at the cost it is. This is not a assault against you, just an observation, please read "you" as a generic you aka everyone...

What do you think, a pwm only controller for less then 50? I just don't see it

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ruffhi*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *poulk*
> 
> Hi all!
> Last week i got some big troubles with my aquero 5 xt.
> After i place aquasuite 2017 -2 software in load at boot, i got the situation where aquasuite crash at the start and i can't do anything about it.
> I try to uninstall it and make new install after it. But i simply can't install it. Installation just doesn't start (after double click nothing happen).
> And for more today my AQ5 gone totally mad. The system starts with all fan working on 100%. Is this end of AQ?
> Any ideas that i can do?
> p.s. OS: Windows 10 pro with the latest update (creator fall)
> 
> 
> 
> There was this post from earlier ...
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Bogga*
> 
> If any of you have aquasuite crashing on start... uninstall the latest windows update. I started the computer this morning, but aquasuite crashed immediately and there was no way I could get it to start. I started thinking what I changed lately but couldn't come up with anything. Then it hit me that Windows updated before I went to sleep last night...
> 
> Uninstall this and it works as it should again
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
Click to expand...

See below
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Bogga*
> 
> If any of you have aquasuite crashing on start... uninstall the latest windows update.
> 
> 
> 
> Or you uninstall RivaTuner since it is the real problem *again.* Be aware that some tools like MSI Afterburner also include RivaTuner. As far as I know RivaTuner allows to exclude apps from its monitoring so you can also add the aquasuite.exe to it.
> 
> Further information can be found in my old posting about the same problem.
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *apw63*
> 
> little help please,
> 
> I've put together a new build. New first time install of win 10 pro on this new system. I have an aquaero 6, a slave, mps 400 and a aqualis REZ with level indicator. I replaced my NZT powered usb hub with a hubby 7.
> 
> I got the system up and running. Initial configuration, Hubby 7 connected to MB usd header, aquaero 6, mps 400 and REZ usbs connected to hubby 7. Installed new version of aquasuite 2017-3.1. Aquasuite reports no usb AC devices connected to system. The hubby 7 power pins are on 1 and 2. The red LED is not lit on the hubby 7. So I reconfigure the usb connections to have the aquaero 6 only connected straight to the MB. When the system is rebooted AS sees the aquaero. I shut system down connect the hubby 7 to the MB with MPS 400 and REZ connected to the hubby. Aquaero still direct connection to the MB. Power up the PSU and red LED on hubby lights up. Boot system up all AC devices seen except the slave. All AC devices are also connected with aquabus. I update firmware on all AC devices without errors. All AC devices seen by AS except the slave. I understand now that the slave needs to be set back to default, firmware updated and then reslaved.
> 
> Here is my issue. I shut the system down to reconfigure the usb connection back to the original configuration. I do this to clean up the wiring. One less usb cable the better. When I power the system back up. The hubbys red power LED is not lit up and all of the AC devices say disconnected. I try to reboot the system a few times. I still get all AC devices disconnected. I go back to aquaero directly connected to MB usb head. AS does not see the aquaero. No matter what configuration I do with the usb connection AS will not see the devices.
> 
> What am I missing? I'm not new to AC or AS. Any help appreciated.y
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> An aquaero with slave firmware has no USB functionality at all. You will have to put it into recovery mode by placing jumpers on the temperature sensor ports 5, 6, 7 and 8. Dot that before you power the device. When powered up wait till it beeps a few times, then turn it off again and remove the jumpers. Aftewards it will run in recovery mode and USB is enabled again.
> 
> When the red LED of Hubby is off, the device does not work so all of the connected devices will not work too of course. You could try to place the jumper to 2-3 (SATA) and to connect SATA for power.
Click to expand...


----------



## zeroibis

What I am saying is that I would like to see something that just has a more cost effective high count PWM channel option. Lets say they release something that is priced the same as a 6lt but only has PWM ports and nothing else but instead of 4 ports it has like 8 or something. Or if they were to make a PWM only version of the power adjust would they really need it to be as expensive per channel? The current cost of PWM channels is aprox $25 per channel you currently with three units with one being a master and the other two as slaves can support a maximum of 12 PWM channels. You could in theory have lets say two of their pumps that add a pwm channel and get a total max of lets say 14. It would just be interesting to see more pwn options or a lower cost per channel. Lastly, for those with lots of fans who do not want to be losing part of their rpm range being able to spread out the fans across more channels is nice.

But as you said imagine instead a $50 pm controller that had 4 channels and without a limit on how many you could have...


----------



## Mega Man

The limit is due to the processor

Personally i think what you want is a pipe dream. There is a reason there is only the aquaero, and all other varieties failed, including the ek one. What ac does is not easy, very complicated, and far harder the first appears and imo the controllers are UNDER priced for what we get. When you think myopically about your (again generalized your) situation, it is easy to say "it should be cheaper". When you think big picture, no one needs that much generally, i have been able to control over 40 fans in one build from one aquaero. I prefer 2-4 but it is doable.

Imo the only reasons power adj exists are not for an extra fan channel, it is for high power pumps that they could not put on the aq5 in the old VRM system.


----------



## apw63

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> The limit is due to the processor
> 
> Personally i think what you want is a pipe dream. There is a reason there is only the aquaero, and all other varieties failed, including the ek one. What ac does is not easy, very complicated, and far harder the first appears and imo the controllers are UNDER priced for what we get. When you think myopically about your (again generalized your) situation, it is easy to say "it should be cheaper". When you think big picture, no one needs that much generally, i have been able to control over 40 fans in one build from one aquaero. I prefer 2-4 but it is doable.
> 
> Imo the only reasons power adj exists are not for an extra fan channel, it is for high power pumps that they could not put on the aq5 in the old VRM system.


True statements


----------



## ruffhi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ruffhi*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *becks*
> 
> Is Aquaero able to stop Fans (*Good PWN Fans..) from spinning completely at low temps and start them on a defined Start-Stop curve ? like the EK ER's ?
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ashcroft*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Cozmo85*
> 
> Depends on the fan IIRC and how they handle 0 pwm signal. Lots of fans seem to go full speed with lack of a pwm signal. Im guessing the new eks are simply programmed to not do that?
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> That's right and it also depends on how the fans are connected to power. If the Aquaero directly powers the fans then at zero PWM it cuts voltage as well but if the fans are on a powered splitter then zero PWM will send them to full speed if that is their default.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> exactly this, you can use am automotive relay to cut power if using a external power source
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> That said, the fact that the aquaero drops the voltage to zero when PWM hits 0% got me to thinking that I could carve out the power coming from the aquaero to my fan hub (hub gets power for fans from PSU) and run the aquaero power signal through the automotive relay as the control signal.
> 
> I'll keep on thinking about this and see if I can knock up a diagram.
Click to expand...

Here is how I have my SilverstoneTek fan hub wired ... power from the PSU and control from the Aquaero. When the PWM goes to 0%, the fans cycle up to full speed.



Here is how I am proposing to re-wire the situation ... drawing on the ability of the Aquaero to cut voltage when the PWM goes to 0%.


Edit: Note that the 85 should be GND (black) and the 86 should be 12v (red).

If I understand this correctly, when the Aquaero is putting out a PWM > 0%, then power will be flowing, the relay will be 'energized' and power (from the PSU) will from terminal 87 and onto the fan hub. When the Aquaero swaps to PWM = 0%, voltage is cut to zero, the relay will be 'at rest' and the power will flow to terminal 87a (which will go no-where in my setup).


----------



## Mega Man

Unless they change the programming, that is the way it works last time I checked volts

Your lower diagram should work fine however you want 12v from relay to fan hub on the n.o. contact 87a not the n.c. contact, on the normally closed contact without voltage on the coil, that contact is closed, WITH voltage it is open and vise versa on the normally open contact.

I am assuming your picture is correct and i am not verifying it.


----------



## Aenra

I think you guys mixed different things into one, aka typical Internet day 

- Technical challenge/complexity.

Was reading the manual and at some point it dawned on me, what they 'do' with Aquabus, how it works.. meaning you can't have FETs, you need a proper mc, you need variables, pulse reading intervals (to ensure all devices are read), addresses per pulse, amplifications, priority calls, etc etc. I'm no expert, but goddamm, i'm pretty sure there's no other controller that does this. Price as such is not a complaint, or at it least it shouldn't be.. competition, prices, etc, you know the drill.

- 'your' having find a way to do it, aka everyone else must be 'wrong', since look at you, you found a way to do it.

Different is not wrong. Yes, you could control a bundle of fans with one device, yes you could control a bundle of fans per channel. It being the point; a whole bundle, per channel. All together, not separately. Ergo if for example you wanted each rad's fanset to function independently from that of another rad? And you had a number of rads? Or worse, a number of large rads? No, one controller just isn't enough then.

Again, yes, one does not have to. One can always make peace with never being able to control each rad set individually. Just as another might not, opting for that individual control if possible. Subjective.

- mixing what you think *other* users would want (not you) with how a company should make its money.

That's their call, lol, not yours. You're just one consumer, all you have is just one opinion. Try not to generalize, you're not everyone.

(you as in figuratively speaking mind, not addressing anyone in specific; just having a conversation here)

Also, thanks to @Shoggy for clearing the LT issue up.


----------



## ruffhi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> Unless they change the programming, that is the way it works last time I checked volts
> 
> Your lower diagram should work fine however you want 12v from relay to fan hub on the n.o. contact 87a not the n.c. contact, on the normally closed contact without voltage on the coil, that contact is closed, WITH voltage it is open and vise versa on the normally open contact.
> 
> I am assuming your picture is correct and i am not verifying it.


I think I have my diagram right ... with 87 (NO) connecting to the fan hub. Here is where I got my info on relays (well, one of the locations).
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *auto relay intro*
> *Standard (DIN, BOSCH, ETC) Relay Wiring*
> 
> _Here is the wiring diagram (pin outs) for the typical square relay. Each of the connections has a number. Each number has special meaning to help keep the wiring consistent, thank the European folks for that nice feature. The electrical numbering convention comes from the DIN 72552 spec (use the web).
> 
> So the connections are defined as follows -
> 
> 85 - Relay's Coil Ground
> 86 - Relay's Coil Control Voltage (typically +12)
> 
> 30 - Switched Common
> 87 - Switched Normally Open (Relay not powered, contact open)
> 87a - Switched Normally Closed (Relay not powered, contact close)
> 
> And just to make sure you have it straight when you apply power to the relay across pins 85 and 86 The relay will close and contacts 30 and 87 will connect, contact 87a will now be open. NOTE : Many relays do NOT have the 87a terminal so if you need a Normally closed contact make sure you see 5 connectors on the relay. This is true of the Micro relay as well. Later on I'll show a very simple diagram of how it's all wired up._
> 
> 
> Spoiler: And here is the diagram ...


Aquaero turns OFF the voltage when PWM goes to zero. When that happens, my fans ramp up to 100%. What I want to happen is that the fans turn off.

PWM not 0%, power flowing from Aquaero, so power over the coil and power flowing to the fan hub
PWM = 0%, power not flowing from Aquaero, so no power to the coil and no power flowing to the fan hub

Based on this info 'closed' means current flows while 'open' means current does not flow. 'Normally' means the state that the contact is in when there is nothing affecting it.

So, Normally Open (NO) means the default position is that the current does not flow. When coil is energized, current does flow.
And, Normally Closed (NC) means the default position is that the current does flow. When coil is energized, current does not flow.

I want the fan hub to get power when the coil is energized, so I have to connect NO to the fan hub, not NC. I understand that this is the reverse of how relays usually work.

*Edit*: I decided to knock up a small test. I have power coming from the PSU (bottom of picture). Those two wires go into to 5 x wago connectors. From there, power goes (via a manual switch that is standing in for the Aquaero) to the 86 terminal while the associated GND goes to the 85 terminal. When the switch is closed, that current flows and the relay is active. You can actually feel the relay click back and forth as you turn on / off the power.

I also have power connected to terminal 30. Terminal 87 (Normally Open) as well as a GND wire then go 'off camera' to a row of LEDs (top).

I put the manual switch to '0' (ie open / not connected / off) and turn on the PSU. No LED.

I click the manual switch to '1' (ie closed / connected / on) and the relay is energized and power flows to the 87 terminal - LEDs turn on.



This is my entry for the world's ugliest wiring test. I will strive to make it more elegant when I wire it up for real.


----------



## Mega Man

You are correct, now I am not at work, and i can look in to it. The thing that threw me off was the red line in the drawing, speaking as from a wiring diagram the way it is drawn is n.c. that is why I said i did not verify it


----------



## Ashcroft

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> That is not correct anymore. The LT as slave can also use PWM. Can't remember when this was changed but it works since a longer while now.


Oh ok, my mistake then. That's great news. I guess I haven't been following ad closely as I used to, still, it can't have been that long ago.
I might even look into if I could use one.


----------



## 88Gamer88

Hi Hi, I ordered an Aquaero 6 LT (New in the club







)
Received the package today.

Now i will install the software but can only select software from 2012 ?
How do i get new software for the 6 LT ?

Normally do you also get new software for new products?


----------



## Barefooter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *88Gamer88*
> 
> Hi Hi, I ordered an Aquaero 6 LT (New in the club
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )
> Received the package today.
> 
> Now i will install the software but can only select software from 2012 ?
> How do i get new software for the 6 LT ?
> 
> Normally do you also get new software for new products?


Here's the download page https://www.aquacomputer.de/software.html


----------



## 88Gamer88

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Barefooter*
> 
> Here's the download page https://www.aquacomputer.de/software.html


Yes i know, but when i will select software 2017 or 2018 then i need to pay.
Or have i bought a new product with old software and need to pay extra for software that works normal with Windows 10 creater update.. ?


----------



## Barefooter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *88Gamer88*
> 
> Yes i know, but when i will select software 2017 or 2018 then i need to pay.
> Or have i bought a new product with old software and need to pay extra for software that works normal with Windows 10 creater update.. ?


The Aquaero comes with a license for the latest software version. On installation it will sense the products connected via USB.


----------



## tomsonx1983

I think all that emergency shutdown should be revised
It dont work on modern motherboards at all
Simple solution in firmware/software
If u u have pro or xt it can be done by reseting emergency shutdown by button or touch screen
In case of LT power switch on psu
Or in all version power switch flipp will do the job
Honestly it was one of reasons to buy aquaero
A physical shut off of power in case of pump fail etc or temp goes to high


----------



## 88Gamer88

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Barefooter*
> 
> The Aquaero comes with a license for the latest software version. On installation it will sense the products connected via USB.


Thanks







, the first time i did it wrong


----------



## Revan654

Quick Question: With the USB Cables, would there be any kind of issue if 26 AWG wiring is used? I need to create some custom USB cables, Would like to use what I have left instead of order new wire in 22 AWG.

AQ Device -> Hubby7 -> Motherboard.

Also would Sata power be needed?


----------



## BatteryKing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ruffhi*
> 
> I think I have my diagram right ... with 87 (NO) connecting to the fan hub. Here is where I got my info on relays (well, one of the locations).
> Aquaero turns OFF the voltage when PWM goes to zero. When that happens, my fans ramp up to 100%. What I want to happen is that the fans turn off.
> 
> PWM not 0%, power flowing from Aquaero, so power over the coil and power flowing to the fan hub
> PWM = 0%, power not flowing from Aquaero, so no power to the coil and no power flowing to the fan hub
> 
> Based on this info 'closed' means current flows while 'open' means current does not flow. 'Normally' means the state that the contact is in when there is nothing affecting it.
> 
> So, Normally Open (NO) means the default position is that the current does not flow. When coil is energized, current does flow.
> And, Normally Closed (NC) means the default position is that the current does flow. When coil is energized, current does not flow.
> 
> I want the fan hub to get power when the coil is energized, so I have to connect NO to the fan hub, not NC. I understand that this is the reverse of how relays usually work.
> 
> *Edit*: I decided to knock up a small test. I have power coming from the PSU (bottom of picture). Those two wires go into to 5 x wago connectors. From there, power goes (via a manual switch that is standing in for the Aquaero) to the 86 terminal while the associated GND goes to the 85 terminal. When the switch is closed, that current flows and the relay is active. You can actually feel the relay click back and forth as you turn on / off the power.
> 
> I also have power connected to terminal 30. Terminal 87 (Normally Open) as well as a GND wire then go 'off camera' to a row of LEDs (top).
> 
> I put the manual switch to '0' (ie open / not connected / off) and turn on the PSU. No LED.
> 
> I click the manual switch to '1' (ie closed / connected / on) and the relay is energized and power flows to the 87 terminal - LEDs turn on.
> 
> 
> 
> This is my entry for the world's ugliest wiring test. I will strive to make it more elegant when I wire it up for real.


One question I have is especially seeing the state is this relay is going to be normally activated, does it make more sense to use a solid state relay than a mechanical relay? With what I am doing with the emergency shutdown, normally the mechanical relay component is at rest and so that whole 'latching' relay part should not be drawing much power. Ever since installing my Aq6 XT and relay, my UPS is only showing a ~5W increase for both combined, which is essentially in the noise range measurement wise. I remember back in the day when I built a rail gun I ended up using a heavy duty solid state relay I dug up at a local industrial surplus store as I was concerned a mechanical relay would arc weld shut with the amount of current I was discharging through the large capacitor bank I had, but I only needed a 9V battery to trigger it and it just did not seem like the solid state relay was drawing much power at all when activated. There is a secondary concern of if you have the relay switching on and off frequently, you may wear out the mechanical relay faster than the desired lifespan of the relay.


----------



## ruffhi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BatteryKing*
> 
> *Edit*: I decided to knock up a small test. I have power coming from the PSU (bottom of picture). Those two wires go into to 5 x wago connectors.


One question I have is especially seeing the state is this relay is going to be normally activated, does it make more sense to use a solid state relay than a mechanical relay? With what I am doing with the emergency shutdown, normally the mechanical relay component is at rest and so that whole 'latching' relay part should not be drawing much power. Ever since installing my Aq6 XT and relay, my UPS is only showing a ~5W increase for both combined, which is essentially in the noise range measurement wise. I remember back in the day when I built a rail gun I ended up using a heavy duty solid state relay I dug up at a local industrial surplus store as I was concerned a mechanical relay would arc weld shut with the amount of current I was discharging through the large capacitor bank I had, but I only needed a 9V battery to trigger it and it just did not seem like the solid state relay was drawing much power at all when activated. There is a secondary concern of if you have the relay switching on and off frequently, you may wear out the mechanical relay faster than the desired lifespan of the relay.[/quote]

Interesting comment. It could turn out that my fans are typically off (relay at rest) but I will look for the relay freezing up.


----------



## ruffhi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BatteryKing*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *ruffhi*
> 
> *Edit*: I decided to knock up a small test. I have power coming from the PSU (bottom of picture). Those two wires go into to 5 x wago connectors.
> 
> 
> 
> One question I have is especially seeing the state is this relay is going to be normally activated, does it make more sense to use a solid state relay than a mechanical relay? With what I am doing with the emergency shutdown, normally the mechanical relay component is at rest and so that whole 'latching' relay part should not be drawing much power. Ever since installing my Aq6 XT and relay, my UPS is only showing a ~5W increase for both combined, which is essentially in the noise range measurement wise. I remember back in the day when I built a rail gun I ended up using a heavy duty solid state relay I dug up at a local industrial surplus store as I was concerned a mechanical relay would arc weld shut with the amount of current I was discharging through the large capacitor bank I had, but I only needed a 9V battery to trigger it and it just did not seem like the solid state relay was drawing much power at all when activated. There is a secondary concern of if you have the relay switching on and off frequently, you may wear out the mechanical relay faster than the desired lifespan of the relay.
Click to expand...

Interesting comment. It could turn out that my fans are typically off (relay at rest) but I will look for the relay freezing up.


----------



## Mega Man

They can fail, but they are designed to switch. Look at thermostats, how many times do they fail, it's rare, unless using crappy trust a like the nest out ECObee (which are junk, and constantly fail) you hear the click of the relay in modern tstats
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tomsonx1983*
> 
> I think all that emergency shutdown should be revised
> It dont work on modern motherboards at all
> Simple solution in firmware/software
> If u u have pro or xt it can be done by reseting emergency shutdown by button or touch screen
> In case of LT power switch on psu
> Or in all version power switch flipp will do the job
> Honestly it was one of reasons to buy aquaero
> A physical shut off of power in case of pump fail etc or temp goes to high


If you are experiencing this, odds are you have not wired it properly, with the exception of *one* isolated case which imo is ebkac it works, as well if you understand how the power supply works, when you break ps_on the psu has to shut down. If it doesn't your psu is bad, if your pc restarts it is an issue with your bios settings or the way the oem programmed your pc bios.

I do not use cheap boards, but all my servers, and regular pcs have the ability to change what your pc does when power is lost. From as rock, gigabyte, intel, super micro msi.....


----------



## zeroibis

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tomsonx1983*
> 
> I think all that emergency shutdown should be revised
> It dont work on modern motherboards at all
> Simple solution in firmware/software
> If u u have pro or xt it can be done by reseting emergency shutdown by button or touch screen
> In case of LT power switch on psu
> Or in all version power switch flipp will do the job
> Honestly it was one of reasons to buy aquaero
> A physical shut off of power in case of pump fail etc or temp goes to high


Which method are you using:

A) Uses product # 53047 to cut the power via the ATX wire so our PSU should cut power to the system.
https://shop.aquacomputer.de/product_info.php?products_id=1636

B) Uses product # 53217 to cut the power via the power button on your motherboard. (I guess it simulates holding the power switch down for 4 seconds)
https://shop.aquacomputer.de/product_info.php?products_id=3607


----------



## 88Gamer88

_I have installed yesterday the Aquaero 6 LT, and today the high flow meter 53129 in me case.

Have disconnet the USB cable from the Aquaero and connect it with the USB cable from the high flow meter (Have only one USB 2.0 header) and the software found the MPS device but no signal in the software.

Now i see i need to activate the flow meter, how can i do that ?
Have on my motherboard one USB 2.0 header.

I think there need 2 devices connect with a USB cable for linking the activation ?
When i start the program with Aquaero and disconnect it and connect the flowmeter can't activate it.

Hope someone can help me







_

Working, Have remove the S-GND Pin from the 5 pins header an connect it on the 4 pins from the 9 pins USB 2.0 Header


----------



## Mega Man

Glad you got it working well.


----------



## Aenra

I was reading the review from Martin (i wish he came back..) on the mechanical flow meter, noticed that he reduced the impulses for larger fittings.

Going on 10/16 here, is there any recommendation anyone here would care to make?

(i know it's not of import, alll i care about is having a flow rate alarm, but if someone has the knowledge, i'll gladly take it)


----------



## BatteryKing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aenra*
> 
> I was reading the review from Martin (i wish he came back..) on the mechanical flow meter, noticed that he reduced the impulses for larger fittings.
> Going on 10/16 here, is there any recommendation anyone here would care to make?
> 
> (i know it's not of import, alll i care about is having a flow rate alarm, but if someone has the knowledge, i'll gladly take it)


If you are interested in my 2c in flow meter detection and setting an alarm for automatic shutdown:

1. My current #1 choice would be the Koolance INS-FM17N with the flow meter frequency adapter. The main plus is it is definitely good enough if you want a sensor to rely on for automatic shutdown. As a bonus other reviews have pinned it as either being right on the money or slightly deviating consistently in terms of accuracy, but definitely accurate enough for emergency shutdown. You need to keep the flow rate above 1 liter / minute and if you may start anywhere near this amount (say you scale on temperature and it is a cool day), you may consider a 4 second 100% power on boost for your pump to make sure the flow meter breaks from static friction and spins up. Probably just best to make sure your pump is always going fast enough. (If it helps any the maximum flow rate I see with my D5 pump is 8 L/m, so what I am talking about for where you would get into trouble is a small fraction of the max possible flow rate.) The reviews also state that it imposes very little resistance to coolant flow. The downside is there does not seem to be a way to get this to read as a flow meter by the Aquaero, just RPMs that translate out to mL/min. The closest I was able to get was to plug the flow meter into the fan 1 header, tell the Aquaero to use fan 1 as a flow meter and max out imp value, but this provided a number twice as high as the flow reading. Decreasing the imp number only made the interpreted flow value to go higher when it was already too high. Also, especially as this cannot be interpreted by the Aquaero with accuracy as a flow meter, there is no way to calibrate it, but then again if you are interested in an alarm worthy value, what you get out of this is plenty fine for that and actually I am doing just that right now.

2. If you ever consider going away from mechanical and going to pressure base, well the Aqua Computer pressure based flow sensors may be interesting toys to play with, though you will be tooling around with it quite a bit to get anything all that useful out of it. Even for emergency shutdown I hit the problem where it went from a low reading to no reading even though coolant was properly flowing and flowing plenty fast to cool the system well, so my computer shut down on a false alarm. It is documented elsewhere where people who have tooled around and thought through their plumbing very well before installing the sensor and have gotten better results than what I got. I also had issues where it would take a while after system power on to get sensor readings out of the the sensors I had over Aquabus, but this may have been due to the fact that I had to extend the Aquabus cable and did not notice the checkbox to slow the bus down until I was about ready to rip this sensor out (the notion being a slower bus speed would have worked better over the longer distance) as I was fed up with it and already figured out how to work around not having it in the system at all anymore and still accomplish my goals.

Unless somebody says otherwise, I don't think you would want to use any other flow sensors besides either some variant of the Koolance sensor for something that will work out of the box (as there are a few close varients to the INS-FM17N) or show your eliteness by getting one of the Aqua Computer pressure based flow sensors to work reliably for you.


----------



## Aenra

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BatteryKing*
> 
> though you will be tooling around with it quite a bit to get anything


That's exactly what's giving me pause if i'm to be honest.. Read a few posts here about setting it up, read the manual, and find me more confused now than i was at the beginning. I have my limits, lol

As to the Koolance adapter, why? It too was made at a time when 10/13 was considered "huge", it being why it's the highest setting it allows for; as i mention above, i'll be at 10/16, so its gonna be just as 'off' (if not more if we're being honest) as AC's will.
The AC impeller variety is smaller in size, better in build quality, and made specifically for a controller i will be buying anyway (and as such forgoing any 'in betweens' just to make things work/have a visual indication).

As always, i appreciate your detailed replies 

* edit: strike my previous edit, deleting it since you do mention the adapter.. am surprised Aqauero doesn't see it, was under the impression it should. Have you asked Shoggy about it?


----------



## Ashcroft

I can't agree with the statements about the MPS flow meters. I have found them very easy to use. Past the initial apparent complexity of the device and the settings system its actually quite simple.
Basic settings are provided that will give you a meter that is well and truly more than accurate to the nearest litre per minute which is perfectly functional for most needs like ensuring your system is flowing well, monitoring the flow over time to detect gradual change that would indicate clogging.

It also then has further detailed settings to calibrate it to your specific system to give a reading more accurate than any paddle meter.
How useful strict accuracy is over relative accuracy is debatable but the feature is there for those who want it.


----------



## tomsonx1983

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> They can fail, but they are designed to switch. Look at thermostats, how many times do they fail, it's rare, unless using crappy trust a like the nest out ECObee (which are junk, and constantly fail) you hear the click of the relay in modern tstats
> If you are experiencing this, odds are you have not wired it properly, with the exception of *one* isolated case which imo is ebkac it works, as well if you understand how the power supply works, when you break ps_on the psu has to shut down. If it doesn't your psu is bad, if your pc restarts it is an issue with your bios settings or the way the oem programmed your pc bios.
> 
> I do not use cheap boards, but all my servers, and regular pcs have the ability to change what your pc does when power is lost. From as rock, gigabyte, intel, super micro msi.....


It does switch of but when aquaero relay after few seconds switch back all pc starting up again
In bios settings its set to stay off after power fail
If i flip psu by my self it will stay of after power back on
But if ps_on break it will boot up after
My mobo is asus rampage v edition 10
All cut off its wired properly
One of lads from other forum has same problem with new asus mobo
May be a common thing in modern motherboards ?


----------



## BatteryKing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aenra*
> 
> That's exactly what's giving me pause if i'm to be honest.. Read a few posts here about setting it up, read the manual, and find me more confused now than i was at the beginning. I have my limits, lol
> 
> As to the Koolance adapter, why? It too was made at a time when 10/13 was considered "huge", it being why it's the highest setting it allows for; as i mention above, i'll be at 10/16, so its gonna be just as 'off' (if not more if we're being honest) as AC's will.
> 
> The AC impeller variety is smaller in size, better in build quality, and made specifically for a controller i will be buying anyway (and as such forgoing any 'in betweens' just to make things work/have a visual indication).
> 
> As always, i appreciate your detailed replies
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> * edit: strike my previous edit, deleting it since you do mention the adapter.. am surprised Aqauero doesn't see it, was under the impression it should. Have you asked Shoggy about it?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ashcroft*
> 
> I can't agree with the statements about the MPS flow meters. I have found them very easy to use. Past the initial apparent complexity of the device and the settings system its actually quite simple.
> Basic settings are provided that will give you a meter that is well and truly more than accurate to the nearest litre per minute which is perfectly functional for most needs like ensuring your system is flowing well, monitoring the flow over time to detect gradual change that would indicate clogging.
> 
> It also then has further detailed settings to calibrate it to your specific system to give a reading more accurate than any paddle meter.
> How useful strict accuracy is over relative accuracy is debatable but the feature is there for those who want it.


These are good points. I suppose mileage and perspective may vary depending on who is doing it, how exactly it is being done, and what the end goals really are. A few notes that I have to possibly provide more perspective on how I am seeing all of this are:

1. I am using thicker 12/16 hard PETG and 13/19 soft tubing. The 12/16 is in the motherboard chamber to look nice and the 13/19 is more behind the scenes plumbing. I am sure this is having an effect on things. What is mentioned above is 10/16, which is a smaller inner diameter and what all of these sensors seemed to be more geared towards. I suspect you will have less trouble with any sensor than what I have experienced because of this. What matters is the inner diameter, not the outer diameter in terms of flow, though a thicker outer diameter may make for smoother and wider bends as it should resist bending more and smoother and wider bends is bound to help with overall flow.

2. In general I am not much of a Koolance fan. If you look at most of their stuff, it tends to be very basic and often cheaply made. For example I picked up some of their swivel joint G1/4 connectors because EKWB was out and found just a little bit of off axis pressure would cause them to leak. Leaking is bad. Once the EKWB parts were back in stock I picked those up instead. I found it took a hell of a lot of off axis pressure to get an EKWB swivel connector to leak and it just looked like a much more solid and professional build, so I consider the EKWB part plenty good for my build and the Koolance parts have been removed.

3. When going for quality parts that are a step or even in a whole different league than the competition, EKWB and Aqua Computer are miles above and beyond anybody else it seems. Maybe there is somebody I haven't tried and should, but in general I have been chucking parts from other vendors overboard and and mainly using these two vendors. I still have a few Thermaltake parts left, but I would not recommend them.

4. My main holdover from Koolance is the flow sensor. For me it seems to be getting the job done of detecting when the flow is not good enough as a fan sensor, hassle free. Of course as is pointed out above, there is all kinds of calibration you can do for the Aqua Computing pressure based flow sensor and Aqua computer does make a mechanical sensor which I believe there is a certain port on the Aquaero 5/6 it will plug directly into. Maybe two other issues that may be affecting me more than it will affect you is pretty much the only hold over part from Thermaltake I have in the computer with the flow sensor is the reservoir and pump combo and while Thermaltake touted their silencer on this, maybe it is not so good after all as I am slowing the pump down quite a bit to get to silent operation when at cooler temps. (My reservoir and pump combo on my Windows box, which is an EKWB reservoir and pump silencer seems to be much quieter and I just run this pump at 100% all the time.) Slower flow rates are bound to be more problematic than faster flow rates in regards to working right with a flow sensor. Also my thicker tubing and placement of the sensor may not be ideal. Get these right where I apparently got it wrong and you may be very happy with the more advanced Aqua Computing sensor.


----------



## war4peace

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BatteryKing*
> 
> 1. I am using thicker 12/16 hard PETG and 13/19 soft tubing. The 12/16 is in the motherboard chamber to look nice and the 13/19 is more behind the scenes plumbing. I am sure this is having an effect on things. What is mentioned above is 10/16, which is a smaller inner diameter and what all of these sensors seemed to be more geared towards. I suspect you will have less trouble with any sensor than what I have experienced because of this.


Except it doesn't have any effect on measurements, especially in case of mechanical meters.
All flow sensors have precisely measured input and output diameters. That's what's important, the fact that the liquid enters an opening "this" size, rotates the impeller "these" many rotations per minute and exits a hole "this" size. For these flow meters, the input and output sizes are G1/4 - and that's what sets the liquid speed.
I agree that liquid speed in the tubes themselves is faster if the tube is thinner and slower is the tube is thicker, but that's not measured by the flow meter anyway. The measured liquid speed (and flow, consequently) is the one within the meter's internal chamber anyway, regardless of tube thickness outside of it.


----------



## Sjonnieh

hey there,

If got a question i am am trying to figure out how to connect this thing if i would buy it lol.
I want to buy a Aqua-Computer Aquaero 5 LT USB fan controller, to control my ekwb d5 pump and my 4 fans which are connected to a 4 way splitter.
How do i connect the pump and the fans to the Aqua-Computer Aquaero 5 LT USB fan controller, and from what point do i connect the Aqua-Computer Aquaero 5 LT USB fan controller to the mobo.
I want to control both fan speeds and pump speeds in a curve of some kind.

thx in advance.


----------



## Mega Man

Are your fans pwm?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aenra*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *BatteryKing*
> 
> though you will be tooling around with it quite a bit to get anything
> 
> 
> 
> That's exactly what's giving me pause if i'm to be honest.. Read a few posts here about setting it up, read the manual, and find me more confused now than i was at the beginning. I have my limits, lol
> 
> As to the Koolance adapter, why? It too was made at a time when 10/13 was considered "huge", it being why it's the highest setting it allows for; as i mention above, i'll be at 10/16, so its gonna be just as 'off' (if not more if we're being honest) as AC's will.
> 
> The AC impeller variety is smaller in size, better in build quality, and made specifically for a controller i will be buying anyway (and as such forgoing any 'in betweens' just to make things work/have a visual indication).
> 
> As always, i appreciate your detailed replies
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> * edit: strike my previous edit, deleting it since you do mention the adapter.. am surprised Aqauero doesn't see it, was under the impression it should. Have you asked Shoggy about it?
Click to expand...

You do know ac makes a mechanical flow sensor?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tomsonx1983*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> They can fail, but they are designed to switch. Look at thermostats, how many times do they fail, it's rare, unless using crappy trust a like the nest out ECObee (which are junk, and constantly fail) you hear the click of the relay in modern tstats
> If you are experiencing this, odds are you have not wired it properly, with the exception of *one* isolated case which imo is ebkac it works, as well if you understand how the power supply works, when you break ps_on the psu has to shut down. If it doesn't your psu is bad, if your pc restarts it is an issue with your bios settings or the way the oem programmed your pc bios.
> 
> I do not use cheap boards, but all my servers, and regular pcs have the ability to change what your pc does when power is lost. From as rock, gigabyte, intel, super micro msi.....
> 
> 
> 
> It does switch of but when aquaero relay after few seconds switch back all pc starting up again
> In bios settings its set to stay off after power fail
> If i flip psu by my self it will stay of after power back on
> But if ps_on break it will boot up after
> My mobo is asus rampage v edition 10
> All cut off its wired properly
> One of lads from other forum has same problem with new asus mobo
> May be a common thing in modern motherboards ?
Click to expand...

I still say ebkac (ie error between keyboard and chair



You says your board does not have that option but that is from your own manual


----------



## Aenra

@Ashcroft wasn't trying to convince anyone, have been the first to say i lack the experience ergo naturally, some aspects of all this will seem daunting to me but relatively 'tame' i suppose to others.

You take a guy like me, walk him through page after page of instructions with the end result being he's more confused in the end than he was in the beginning, chances are he's gonna stick to the impeller sensor 

(for example shutting my pump down while the PC is running so i can calibrate a 'no flow'? Why would i ever want to kill my pump while my PC is running? Just one of many 'questions' i didn't have in the beginning, but do after having read it all. There are plenty more, that again, i didn't have originally)

May have misread your post, but either way, hopefully you now grasp that this wasn't about efficiency, quality of the product thereof or anything related; just about.. user-friendliness. That this is not for the uninitiated. And judging by question after question in relative forums, i'm far from the only one viewing it thus. Got nothing against AC, on the contrary. Pump, top, res, controller and flow reader will all be AC products. Just not the differential one.

@BatteryKing @war4peace Thank you both for weighing in on this; had the same line of thinking initially, regarding both importance of (only) the ID and universal threads; so theoritically, no problem. What confused me later on?

- Check the Koolance frequency adaptor. You'll see it requires user input regarding the ID, accepting 10 as the highest. One would therefore assume that an ID of 12, or 13 even worse, would be 'off' in results? If not the case, why would they go to the trouble of having different readings and settings for IDs of 5, 8 and 10?

- Check Martin's (LiquidLabs) review on the mechanical Aqua Computer flow sensor. He too mentions barb ID affecting the sensor's readings (ergo again, the 169 impulse rate would be off for more modern diameters) and goes on to show it too.

@Mega Man Thanks again; and yeah, that's the one i'll be getting alright. My original question was just whether anyone knows of an impulse rate better suited for 10/16. If any.

Again, you guys know best, am not trying to bash or critique here, only to understand/learn what i currently don't.

And Merry Christmas to everyone


----------



## Mega Man

I do not sorry


----------



## Aenra

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> I do not sorry


No worries, 169 it is then. As always, my thanks for replying


----------



## Ashcroft

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aenra*
> 
> No worries, 169 it is then. As always, my thanks for replying


From my experimentation it seems that above 10mm really doesn't matter. While ID's of less than 10 introduce progressively greater problems.

The way a flow meter works does indeed use a known internal diameter to correlate rpms of a paddle or differential pressure with a flow rate. Above 10mm doesn't matter much because of the internal diameter of g1/4 fittings which is the same for 12/16 tube and 10/12 tube.

When the fluid flows from the 10mm tube it encounters the approx 10mm ID G1/4 threaded section of the fitting and is accelerated, then is accelerated again as it encounters the sensor chamber which is under 10mm. All that happens the same if coming from 12mm tube.
Being accelerated is fine because it has pressure behind it and can only achieve a max that the constriction allows.

If on the other hand you have 8mm tube or even less the fluid comes from the tube into the narrower fitting and then into the sensor chamber. If the sensor chamber is larger than 8mm the fluid has to slow down, but fluid has inertia and it may carry some of the higher velocity for the very short gap onto the sensor and effect the readings.

Larger to smaller







Smaller to larger









My Aquacomp sensor has a chamber that is roughly 9mm with a 6mm orifice to measure across.

As far as the Aquaero goes, sometimes having the manual without the device is more confusing than helpful ... for any device.
There are always a lot of questions about the Aquaero ecosystem but they are all the same questions that get asked all the time. They all have simple answers once you understand the thing and have it in front of you to experiment with. Some of it is to do with the systems uniqueness so nobody has previous experience from anything similar. Some is also the German way of thinking that catches people but once you get it, you get it and it all seems so straightforward.

I come from a time when we didn't have luxurious comprehensive manuals like now. We had to figure it all out by playing with it and asking others. It was still doable.


----------



## tomsonx1983

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> I still say ebkac (ie error between keyboard and chair
> 
> You says your board does not have that option but that is from your own manual


I said it has that option but it restart anyway regardles of it


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tomsonx1983*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> I still say ebkac (ie error between keyboard and chair
> 
> You says your board does not have that option but that is from your own manual
> 
> 
> 
> I said it has that option but it restart anyway regardles of it
Click to expand...

I'm a lil' late to the party on this one, but since the discussion has been ongoing, I'll throw in my









There seems to be some confusion and confabulation about shutdown via opening the "green wire" circuit in the 24 pin connector group and how the mobo handles "restart after power failure".

Restart after power fail means that the AC line power has failed, and the mobo typically sees that as a loss of "5V Stand-By" power.

If you were to break the "green wire" and the 5V SB for enough milliseconds that it wouldn't be held up by the caps, you could probably then simulate an AC line fail, and have the shutdown function that you want


----------



## Aenra

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ashcroft*
> 
> I come from a time when we didn't have luxurious comprehensive manuals like now.


My first DOS manual was thicker than my Lord of the Rings hardcopy, if i go even further back i'd probably astound some. Not so sure which 'time' you're referring to, but regardless!

Many thanks for clarifying the impulse thing, i really appreciate it


----------



## Aenra

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> If you were to break the "green wire" and the 5V SB for enough milliseconds


Excuse the ignorant, but is that not what the AQs do by default? If not, care to elaborate on how we could do that?

(might as well ask in advance, i can foresee me returning to this, lol)


----------



## tomsonx1983

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> I'm a lil' late to the party on this one, but since the discussion has been ongoing, I'll throw in my
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There seems to be some confusion and confabulation about shutdown via opening the "green wire" circuit in the 24 pin connector group and how the mobo handles "restart after power failure".
> 
> Restart after power fail means that the AC line power has failed, and the mobo typically sees that as a loss of "5V Stand-By" power.
> If you were to break the "green wire" and the 5V SB for enough milliseconds that it wouldn't be held up by the caps, you could probably then simulate an AC line fail, and have the shutdown function that you want


But that will require another relay again
So still implementing latching function in firmware will be best i think
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aenra*
> 
> Excuse the ignorant, but is that not what the AQs do by default? If not, care to elaborate on how we could do that?
> (might as well ask in advance, i can foresee me returning to this, lol)


No by default its breaks only PS_ON wire not both


----------



## Aenra

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tomsonx1983*
> 
> But that will require another relay again
> 
> ...
> No by default it breaks only PS_ON wire not both


Thank you for replying; so if that's the case.. why is the function available in the first place?

See, that's why i ask in advance, lol, there's aaalways something that's gonna pop just when you thought you'd grasped things, lol


----------



## tomsonx1983

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aenra*
> 
> Thank you for replying; so if that's the case.. why is the function available in the first place?
> 
> See, that's why i ask in advance, lol, there's aaalways something that's gonna pop just when you thought you'd grasped things, lol


Its seams to be working in older motherboards
My friend did have it on older x79 platform rampage mobo and it was working
And now we have arleady few users with new mobos and it dont work as supposed to


----------



## Aenra

Thanks again man 

So basically, we're down to this?


----------



## tomsonx1983

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aenra*
> 
> Thanks again man
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So basically, we're down to this?


Thats another option, but i will feel more safe with psu cut off


----------



## Aenra

Am now wondering if the poster above having issues has his AQ connected by USB or not.. what with the lack of a 'proper' standby for the newer models.

* Oh, and whether he has ErP enabled or not (depending on timers, that too could be a thing, right?).

** also, if he's not running the software, has he re-flashed the AQ after saving his alarm conditions?


----------



## Ashcroft

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aenra*
> 
> My first DOS manual was thicker than my Lord of the Rings hardcopy, if i go even further back i'd probably astound some. Not so sure which 'time' you're referring to, but regardless!
> Many thanks for clarifying the impulse thing, i really appreciate it


I'm talking about the Aquaero manuals







The early ones were appalling that were literally a work in progress being written after the Aq5 was released. I had an early Aq5 and there was a lot of learning by doing needed.

I wish I kept one of them.


----------



## Aenra

Aah, fair enough


----------



## jura11

Hi guys

Looks like my MPS400 flow sensor is dead again, this is my second one which has died

PC is running 24/7,occasionally restart probably once per 2 weeks to check fee things

Running Mayhems X1 when I switched to Caselabs M8 and didn't run any other coolants on this build and with this MPS400 I run only X1

Looks like I will be getting Koolance flow sensor

Hope this helps and Merry Xmas to you guys

Thanks, Jura


----------



## tomsonx1983

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aenra*
> 
> Am now wondering if the poster above having issues has his AQ connected by USB or not.. what with the lack of a 'proper' standby for the newer models.
> 
> * Oh, and whether he has ErP enabled or not (depending on timers, that too could be a thing, right?).
> 
> ** also, if he's not running the software, has he re-flashed the AQ after saving his alarm conditions?


I tried all
Aquaero connected to usb, disconnected
Erp on s4+s5 only s5 states
Erp off
And my pc always try to boot up after emergency shutdown


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tomsonx1983*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> I'm a lil' late to the party on this one, but since the discussion has been ongoing, I'll throw in my
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There seems to be some confusion and confabulation about shutdown via opening the "green wire" circuit in the 24 pin connector group and how the mobo handles "restart after power failure".
> 
> Restart after power fail means that the AC line power has failed, and the mobo typically sees that as a loss of "5V Stand-By" power.
> If you were to break the "green wire" and the 5V SB for enough milliseconds that it wouldn't be held up by the caps, you could probably then simulate an AC line fail, and have the shutdown function that you want
> 
> 
> 
> But that will require another relay again
> So still implementing latching function in firmware will be best i think
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Aenra*
> 
> Excuse the ignorant, but is that not what the AQs do by default? If not, care to elaborate on how we could do that?
> (might as well ask in advance, i can foresee me returning to this, lol)
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> No by default its breaks only PS_ON wire not both
Click to expand...

No. The aquaero does whatever you want it to. You have to set it up, whether you break ps_on or ac power. You set it to do that


----------



## tomsonx1983

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> No. The aquaero does whatever you want it to. You have to set it up, whether you break ps_on or ac power. You set it to do that


And it does that, it breaks PS_ON as suppose to do
But after few seconds relay revert it state back and connect back PS_ON
Than all pc turns on


----------



## Mega Man

IF *You* set it up like that it does. Aka it's your fault


----------



## tomsonx1983

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> IF *You* set it up like that it does. Aka it's your fault


No its not my fault
If everything is configured right
Wired right so where r u see my fault








Not to many of us using that function
And now more of us whose want to on modern motherboards have a problem same as me
So maybe tell me what im doing wrong


----------



## Aenra

If Mega Man can find the patience, i too would appreciate that tbh


----------



## tomsonx1983

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aenra*
> 
> If Mega Man can find the patience, i too would appreciate that tbh


I would to but i think its nothing what we can do
I got custom cables done with psu cut off and as well pulled braidet +5vsb
So i have a option to make diy board witch latching relay as add on to aquaero
Thing it is its not working as suppose to in aquaero specs even if u get they accesorys to connect ur psu


----------



## BatteryKing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tomsonx1983*
> 
> I would to but i think its nothing what we can do
> I got custom cables done with psu cut off and as well pulled braidet +5vsb
> So i have a option to make diy board witch latching relay as add on to aquaero
> Thing it is its not working as suppose to in aquaero specs even if u get they accesorys to connect ur psu


Sorry, I keep bringing this up as it seems like a persistent topic here. I think my answer to this question a few weeks back on this forum has been working out for those who have tried. (At least they are not complaining that it did not work.) I am running an Asus x99 based workstation board. My understanding with the Aquaero 5/6 relay and 24-pin PSU connector is the green wire you can cut into is the POWER_ON line. The power supply pulls this line up to +5V and the motherboard pulls it down in order to tell the power supply to turn on. By interrupting this signal with a relay, the computer shuts off. It seems whether the motherboard has an option or not for powering on after power failure, at least ASUS boards these days always power on automatically shortly after the POWER_ON circuit is restored. The Aquaero 5/6 will apparently only hold the relay open momentarily and then shut again when hooked to the NC terminal of the relay. So this leads to what I have described in prior posts as the yo-yo effect. The solution I proposed for this and am actively using is a latching relay I have described in detail previously here. It set me back around $6 and I managed to wire it up in minutes, so seems like an easy and cheap enough solution to the problem. If there is a better solution to this problem, great, let us know once you have tested it out and confirmed, especially if it is with a newer ASUS board.

Maybe something to consider about these boards is for example when I first installed this board with a Xeon processor and set the board to use its default settings, I was seeing all kinds of PCIe bus errors in the logs and random hangs and reboots. I talked to the ASUS technical support about this and they had me send the board back. I got a new board, but same exact problem. I did some poking around on my own as I figured at this point ASUS tech support was incompetent and found that by default the ASUS firmware was overclocking various buses in the system such as the internal CPU ring bus and Xeons don't like being overclocked. I found what the sane clock speeds for these buses and other components were and manually set them in the BIOS. All of a sudden the system became completely stable and the PCIe bus errors went away. I went back and forth with ASUS tech support about this quite a bit and eventually got an intelligent response after dealing with a whole lot of bugger-all. I tried one of their newer BIOS updates and the system is now stable on a Xeon with the default settings. An interesting thing to think about this is the ASUS workstation board that specifically states compatibility with Xeons was more stable with a regular Core-i7 desktop CPU than it was with a Xeon until tweaks were made to put this situation straight. I suppose if someone is really adamant about getting ASUS boards to work better with the Aquaero 5/6 relay based emergency shutdown function through the 24-pin ATX power connector, they can bug ASUS tech support and see if they can eventually get such a change enacted in a future BIOS release for their board.


----------



## Mega Man

You can easily beak the high voltage line, you can use the n.o. contact, rather then the nc contact use the the n.o. , going from memory you can increase the time the relay is open, i am not infront of my pc, and won't be for a while.

As to the battery king, i have already highlighted the setting for HIS specific board, and he insists he had already tried it.

The simple truth is that none of this is needed, you can use the cpu fan channel to kill the power by cutting the rpm signal, the relay, in many ways to do so. And frankly if the pc gets too hot, it will auto shutdown anyway. But alas. No one is willing to think outside the box


----------



## Aenra

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> rather then the nc contact use the the n.o. , going from memory you can increase the time the relay is open


Mentioned this in the +rep box, it's not about thinking out of the box, it's a mere lack of electronics-related knowledge. Have encountered this in my own field.. may seem the simplest of things to me, but to someone uninitiated, not so much, lol

Anyway, what you're suggesting (just to be sure) is that on an AQ6, instead of contacts 1+3 on the relay, aka NC+CC, we go the route of 2+3, aka NO+CC?

(regarding the relay period on /open, good point; might be just me here, but the recommendation to leave it as is [default] is what prevented me from even considering it)

As always, thanks for replying 

* to BatteryKing: The user facing these issues already has the relevant BIOS setting to 'off', it's why he's asking. And as mentioned in your rep box as well, your solution may well work, but whether someone has the confidence/knowledge to do it? That's another story.


----------



## BatteryKing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> You can easily beak the high voltage line, you can use the n.o. contact, rather then the nc contact use the the n.o. , going from memory you can increase the time the relay is open, i am not infront of my pc, and won't be for a while.
> 
> As to the battery king, i have already highlighted the setting for HIS specific board, and he insists he had already tried it.
> 
> The simple truth is that none of this is needed, you can use the cpu fan channel to kill the power by cutting the rpm signal, the relay, in many ways to do so. And frankly if the pc gets too hot, it will auto shutdown anyway. But alas. No one is willing to think outside the box


I do appreciate this. The problem is I have tried a whole bunch of things before wiring in an extra 'latching' relay. It is great and all that there are a lot of thoughts on this problem, it just seemed when I was really into this problem I hit a whole bunch of 'solutions' that where documented somewhere, in the manual, in another manual, people with older hardware, people with older versions of the software for the Aquaero, people running Windows as their primary OS, etc, but nothing worked for my situation of (as least a particular) newer ASUS board, current version of Aquasuite, and Linux as the primary OS and especially did not meet my preferred criteria of motherboard can be completely hosed and system will still reliably shut off. I was especially interested in meeting the last criteria as I one of my concerns is a failure tripping the emergency shutoff would be coolant leaking and dripping onto the motherboard leaving it in who knows what state, so best to have a system where the coolant cannot physically get to regardless of where the leak happens completely in charge of the emergency shutoff feature. The next time I need to reboot I will look up and play with any relevant BIOS setting I can find and especially revisit your proposed solution (I just have that solution mentally marked as failed because I specifically targeted it, but at the end of the day the system would still yo-yo in my tests to validate. I tried so many things in a short time span that I don't remember the specific reason why I considered that route a failure now, at least not with certainty, only the certainty that the attempt ended in failure). Also if you know how to get a system to do an emergency shutdown based on a fan tach reading when the OS is Linux and Linux does not know how to read the fan tach speeds for your particular motherboard (maybe a future project for me), that would be interesting to know. The closest I was able to get was a prompt at boot time in my testing of this when I plugged the RPM cable into the CPU fan header, but got nowhere after the system was booted. Also even if the RPM signal deal worked with my setup, it still would not pass the preferred criteria of OS and/or motherboard is completely non-responsive, let's have a system external to that fully capable of powering off the system. I would be most interested in the RPM signal going to the OS and triggering a graceful shutdown if the problem is deemed to be benign enough to warrant taking some time to shut down over gotta get the system off now. For example if the flow rate is too low, but measurable, suggesting a partial failure of some sort, take your time shutting down, but no flow means off now in a sure fire way.

Also if it helps any as I may have mentioned previously, I have seen cooling failures in the not too distant past where where hardware either died or became flaky soon after. For example a few years back I took a job in an area where I underestimated the air pollution and pollen in the air and opened up windows for cross ventilation of my place and found just two months after moving in my system went from freshly cleaned to completely clogged and with sticky crap I had never seen before at other locations that was very hard and in some cases (such as inside the power supply) impossible to remove. My CPU flaked out after a thermal event where it hit and stayed at 100C at full load before I noticed and shut down the system for extra early cleaning. My GPU started getting extra hot even after the blow treatment because I did not completely dismantle and go into every little orifice and scrape that recently deposited sticky crap out, so I reprogrammed the video card to crank up its fan to compensate. This was still not enough and the video card soon went out with a bang (literally, my ears were ringing from that). The power supply, which I was not supposed to be opened to clean and so only got the ineffective air compressor treatment also died around this time. (I also developed severe breathing issues for the first time around the same time all of my hardware started dying and as I talked with my neighbors I realized that they were almost all suffering from severe breathing issues to, so that air definitely was not good.) So yeah, like a lot of expensive hardware died in fairly short order because I could no longer keep it cool enough and no built in protections prevented this hardware from dying early. I switched over to using HEPA filters and closing the windows until I could find a job in a less polluted and pollen filled area, which brought an end to the rapid string of hardware failures. One of my main goals going for water cooling was to get to lower temperatures in hopes of having hardware last longer. In addition to this I have been able to overclock an nVidia 1080 Ti while still seeing low GPU temps. But a third reason I have been exploring recently is to better protect hardware than the built-in protections. As mentioned I have seen systems get to the built in thermal protections and they did not seem to be enough to really protect hardware. I have even seen widespread thermal damage in sections of datacenters on multiple occasions because the built in thermal protections in the server hardware where not enough and not enough was done by those managing the datacenter and the servers inside to catch and arrest thermal issues before reaching these built in protections and suffered because of it. Maybe another way to put it from my personal experience and observing others, there seems to be plenty of evidence to warrant a well thought out thermal protection plan implemented and validated by those who have the power to implement such a thing and in the case of my home computer I have that power and so have done what I could.

I do see the problem in that I suggest a more technically challenging solution. I do agree and have mentioned in the past the easier solution of say hooking into the power switch if not too sure how to implement my suggestion. But there also seems to be the problem that there is no silver bullet solution that is both technically easy and highly reliable. I would like to get to this. I think maybe we are going round and round on this subject in part because the most obvious solution is not presenting itself, so we are all poking around for some other solution.

Maybe an idea that would help if the relay solution is pursued by someone who does not have the confidence to cut up their 24-pin ATX connector is to get the Aqua Computing ATX connector (53047), cut off the connector for the standby power plug and use those exposed wires to power the latching relay I mentioned as you just need to strip the wire a little and screw it into the terminals on the relay board (purple +5V and black is ground). Then cut the green wire on the cable, but instead of hooking it straight to the aquaero, hook it into the 'latching' relay. Then hook the aquaero relay into the switch port on the 'latching' relay. This way the 4 wires you need on the 24-pin ATX cable are already picked out for you by Aqua Computer and grouped and color coded in an obvious fashion and extended to reach most places in the computer, so all you need to do are rather easy and straight forward plug, cut, strip, and screw into place. Now you are done from the wiring perspective. (Note: the standby power plug on the Aqua Computer 24-pin ATX emergency shutoff plug is not compatible with the Aquaero 6 and does not make much sense as you get standby power from USB, so no loss in pressing it into service to power an extra relay.)

Attached is a quick rough sketch of how the 'latching' relay would hook into the system using part 53047 as mentioned above.


----------



## tomsonx1983

I know thats are some other ways but if u got minimalistic build with all cabling already made to lenght its a bit annoying that its not working as supposed to and being advertised


----------



## Aenra

On a lighter note, i was imagining Shoggy (or just about any community rep person) coming back from vacation and pulling his hair from having to read yet another 3783462452 pages, lol

Merry Christmas Shoggy


----------



## zeroibis

Just to recap there is two options for auto shutdown:

1) Uses product # 53047 to cut the power via the ATX wire so our PSU should cut power to the system.
https://shop.aquacomputer.de/product_info.php?products_id=1636

2) Uses product # 53217 to cut the power via the power button on your motherboard. (I guess it simulates holding the power switch down for 4 seconds)
https://shop.aquacomputer.de/product_info.php?products_id=3607

I am amusing the problem is that that some people are using option 1 and it is not working for them but what about option 2?


----------



## BatteryKing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> You can easily beak the high voltage line, you can use the n.o. contact, rather then the nc contact use the the n.o. , going from memory you can increase the time the relay is open, i am not infront of my pc, and won't be for a while.
> 
> As to the battery king, i have already highlighted the setting for HIS specific board, and he insists he had already tried it.
> 
> The simple truth is that none of this is needed, you can use the cpu fan channel to kill the power by cutting the rpm signal, the relay, in many ways to do so. And frankly if the pc gets too hot, it will auto shutdown anyway. But alas. No one is willing to think outside the box


I rebooted and looked into the power up after power loss option highlighted and found I already have this set to no as in do not power up after power loss. I think I probably set this way back when I was first trying to diagnose the problem, but it did not help and so I moved on and that was why it was mentally marked off as not an option. Just tried so many things after that I forgot exactly why I did not consider it an option. Not sure why you would want to use the N.O. side of the relay for emergency shutdown. That sounds like it is asking for trouble (as in press the power button and nothing happens because the relay is open when you need it to be closed) and will probably draw power to hold the relay shut. I could not find any time settings either for the relay beyond pulse for 2sec and pulse for 10s, which seem related to using the relay with the power button, not the 24-pin ATX power connector. As mentioned before I cannot see the CPU fan channel under Linux (the primary OS), so I don't think fan channel monitoring will work and it is moving further away from the scenario I am trying to account for which is if motherboard and what is running on it is hosed, want an independent system physically away from water cooling system to shut everything down. This leads to with the know current state of things and what my goals are, I still only see the option of using an extra 'latching' relay with the 24-pin ATX connector. (I put quotes around this as the particular relay to fill the job actually has a conventional mechanical relay, but simulates the latching function with a JK style flip flop circuit.) Of course somebody with different goals and a different setup may come to a different answer and there may still be something I am missing.


----------



## IT Diva

Just to throw out another thought . . . .

If you use the "power on" wire in the 24 pin group, you'll want to run the relay contacts in parallel with the "power" button.

If you put a fairly large value cap, (in the range of 470 to 2200 mfd) across the relay coil, and put a fast schottky diode in series with the feed to the cap and relay, (so that the cap can only discharge into the relay coil when power is removed) you'll have a mechanism that effectively holds the power button depressed for the seconds needed to effect shutdown, although the initial signal to shutdown doesn't last long enough.

That might be a way to have the latching relay effect, without the need for an "un"-latching mechanism, as by the time the cap is discharged to where it can't hold the relay in, the shutdown sequence will be complete, but the cap will be drained and the relay will have opened on its own0..


----------



## Jubijub

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zeroibis*
> 
> Just to recap there is two options for auto shutdown:
> 
> 1) Uses product # 53047 to cut the power via the ATX wire so our PSU should cut power to the system.
> https://shop.aquacomputer.de/product_info.php?products_id=1636
> 
> 2) Uses product # 53217 to cut the power via the power button on your motherboard. (I guess it simulates holding the power switch down for 4 seconds)
> https://shop.aquacomputer.de/product_info.php?products_id=3607
> 
> I am amusing the problem is that that some people are using option 1 and it is not working for them but what about option 2?


isn't there a 3rd, using the relay plug (http://shop.aquacomputer.de/product_info.php?products_id=2665&language=en) on NO+COM wired to the power button wires ?

On my build I am using relay on power button + RPM signal (your /2), but I haven't configured it yet so I am interested in the outcome.

All I want is to give a chance to the PC to get a few seconds before power loss...


----------



## AshBorer

Hey guys, on the back side of my aquaero 6 LT I noticed some unlabeled pins (24) between the two standoffs on the left side in this pic


What are they for? Is it maybe only for the XT version of this controller? Like maybe the display uses them or something of that nature.


----------



## iamjanco

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AshBorer*
> 
> Hey guys, on the back side of my aquaero 6 LT I noticed some unlabeled pins (24) between the two standoffs on the left side in this pic
> 
> 
> What are they for? Is it maybe only for the XT version of this controller? Like maybe the display uses them or something of that nature.


That plug is for the front PCB which the LCD is mounted to in the XT version.


----------



## AshBorer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iamjanco*
> 
> That plug is for the front PCB which the LCD is mounted to in the XT version.


Thanks for the quick reply. I figured it was something like that.


----------



## Jubijub

Dear all,

Here comes the time where I need to calibrate my system : is there any doc / tutorial on how to do so ?

What I cool : 6900 OC + 2x 1080Ti
How I cool it : 560 Push + 480 Push + 280 Push/pull, all powered by Corsair ML Pro PWM fans

How I understood it so far :
- I need to create a virtual sensor with Delta T°
- I need to run the system with heavy load, with all fan maxed ==> this will give me the minimum delta T°
- I need to run the system with heavy load with all fans min (ie ~400tr.m) with carefull monitoring of the delta T° ==> this will give me the max Delta T° of my system

I can then set the fans using AQ6 automatic regulation so that Delta T° doesn't exceed 10°C

I am not sure how to proceed, especially as most of the time, the system will be way below max load


----------



## ruffhi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jubijub*
> 
> Dear all,
> 
> Here comes the time where I need to calibrate my system : is there any doc / tutorial on how to do so ?


I found a couple of pages talking about setting up an Aquaero ... but nothing super modern and exhaustive.

Here is a dump of how I set mine up.

Here is a quote from my build log where I reference the aquaero items that I could fine at the time.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ruffhi*
> 
> *Part 3 - Setting up Aquasuite*
> 
> My next step was to google some youtubes ... found this ... aquasuite 2012 customized overview pages which was very useful regarding getting started. The only downside I found is that it doesn't have any sound
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> 
> I also found this one ... Aquacomputer Aquasuite 2015 Fan controller overview ... which does have sound.
> 
> Here is another run down of setting up your aquasuite.
> 
> This is pretty good software ... as you turn things on (ie pump), the software adds a page full of pump guff. I am running one (1) pump without PWM control (does that mean 60%) and I am getting 350 litres per hour (google tells me that that is 1.54 gpm).


----------



## Jubijub

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ruffhi*
> 
> I found a couple of pages talking about setting up an Aquaero ... but nothing super modern and exhaustive.
> 
> Here is a dump of how I set mine up.
> 
> Here is a quote from my build log where I reference the aquaero items that I could fine at the time.


This is a bit the issue : detailed info is often very outdated (you list what is considered the gold reference, but on this post all pictures have gone)

I guess I will have to investigate







I'll make sure to report my findings.


----------



## war4peace

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jubijub*
> 
> Dear all,
> 
> Here comes the time where I need to calibrate my system : is there any doc / tutorial on how to do so ?
> 
> What I cool : 6900 OC + 2x 1080Ti
> How I cool it : 560 Push + 480 Push + 280 Push/pull, all powered by Corsair ML Pro PWM fans
> 
> How I understood it so far :
> - I need to create a virtual sensor with Delta T°
> - I need to run the system with heavy load, with all fan maxed ==> this will give me the minimum delta T°
> - I need to run the system with heavy load with all fans min (ie ~400tr.m) with carefull monitoring of the delta T° ==> this will give me the max Delta T° of my system
> 
> I can then set the fans using AQ6 automatic regulation so that Delta T° doesn't exceed 10°C
> 
> I am not sure how to proceed, especially as most of the time, the system will be way below max load


After much tinkering and trying out various solutions, I finally ended up with a simplified method which works well and keeps my machine happy even while cryptomining.

Simply put, I have set a Set Point Controller based on the highest liquid temperature in the build, which is the temperature of the liquid when entering the first radiator from the loop. The target is 40 degrees Celsius liquid temperature. Below that, the fans spin at their minimum speed which I set up to 55% PWM. Above that, the fans spin progressively faster, the goal being to maintain liquid temperature at 40 degrees Celsius.
The pumps speed is static, set through a preset value.



I tried curve controllers, 2-point controllers, they all have advantages and disadvantages, however to me the set point controller worked best.
I also tried fan spinning setup with delta T of 10 degrees Celsius, but due to the way my build is setup I was never able to have a reliable ambient temperature sensor: the hotter my PC became, the higher the "ambient" temperature became, and that was bloody annoying not to mention it threw off the setup.

Speaking of which, where do you forumites place your ambient temperature sensor? I have mine right before the 200mm intake fan at the front of the case, which would arguably pull in ambient air from the room, but for some reason it's influenced by something because for example right now the room temperature is 25 degrees Celsius and the sensor reads 28.4 - it's not the sensor itself, if I move it out of the case completely and next to a regular thermometer they show the same temperature.


----------



## ruffhi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *war4peace*
> 
> where do you forumites place your ambient temperature sensor?


I have two. One under the left radiator in my pedestal and the other under the right radiator in my pedestal. One is currently 21.8° C and the other is 22.2° C. I use the water temp less the average of these two air temps in my curve.


----------



## apw63

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *war4peace*
> 
> Speaking of which, where do you forumites place your ambient temperature sensor?


I have mine here


----------



## war4peace

Thanks! Even more offtopic: is that filter working well? Does it add a lot of restriction?


----------



## AshBorer

is it possible to configure fan curves that read from both my GPU and CPU temps? Some times I'm running a GPU dependent task and other times im only using my CPU. For example if my case fans are reading my GPU temp and im running a CPU load only, my CPU cooler may start to get starved of air because my GPU isn't under any load.


----------



## war4peace

Yes, create a virtual sensor which has both >CPU temp and GPU temp as inputs, and the output is the highest of the two.


----------



## apw63

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *war4peace*
> 
> Thanks! Even more offtopic: is that filter working well? Does it add a lot of restriction?


The filter did work great. I used it to catch all the little stuff after initial RAD flush (when new). I have removed the filter screen. I removed it because it does add a lot of restriction. My 2 35x pumps did not have an issue with the restriction. I wanted to lower the restriction to lower pump rpm and lower pump noise. The housing remains in the loop for when needed, RAD update if ever.


----------



## war4peace

Thanks, I guess I'll do the same - use the filter at first then clean up and keep it removed until next upgrade.


----------



## Jubijub

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *war4peace*
> 
> After much tinkering and trying out various solutions, I finally ended up with a simplified method which works well and keeps my machine happy even while cryptomining.
> 
> Simply put, I have set a Set Point Controller based on the highest liquid temperature in the build, which is the temperature of the liquid when entering the first radiator from the loop. The target is 40 degrees Celsius liquid temperature. Below that, the fans spin at their minimum speed which I set up to 55% PWM. Above that, the fans spin progressively faster, the goal being to maintain liquid temperature at 40 degrees Celsius.
> The pumps speed is static, set through a preset value.
> 
> 
> 
> I tried curve controllers, 2-point controllers, they all have advantages and disadvantages, however to me the set point controller worked best.
> I also tried fan spinning setup with delta T of 10 degrees Celsius, but due to the way my build is setup I was never able to have a reliable ambient temperature sensor: the hotter my PC became, the higher the "ambient" temperature became, and that was bloody annoying not to mention it threw off the setup.
> 
> Speaking of which, where do you forumites place your ambient temperature sensor? I have mine right before the 200mm intake fan at the front of the case, which would arguably pull in ambient air from the room, but for some reason it's influenced by something because for example right now the room temperature is 25 degrees Celsius and the sensor reads 28.4 - it's not the sensor itself, if I move it out of the case completely and next to a regular thermometer they show the same temperature.


That's very interesting...

I played a bit with my AQ6 2 months ago when I got the first version of my loop up. I have 4 air sensors, and they were all quite consistent so I am not too worried about getting accurate ambient air temp.

But if I get your point, I don't really need to calibrate anything : just create a Delta T° sensor, and set a control point to keep it <= 10°

I'll see how temps evolve (I now have 2 water temp sensors (after GPU/CPU before 1st rad, and one at reservoir exit), as well as 5 air sensors : SMA8 lower chamber front and side (intake), as well as 560 rad exhaust, top case (intake) and upper chamber front (intake). This on top of GPU / CPU temp should give me a good view


----------



## AshBorer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *war4peace*
> 
> Thanks! Even more offtopic: is that filter working well? Does it add a lot of restriction?


Thank you! I just installed my A6 last night, ive got a lot of learning to do. Ive looked at some online videos and checked the guides in the OP (some links are broken), ive got a lot of learning to do haha. I love tinkering with my PC though, cant wait to see explore aquasuite has to offer.

While i'm here i've got another question... im not water cooling so my temp readings - usually on the cpu - can be fairly spiky which can cause the fans to spontaneously rev up for a split second. Is there a way to avoid this? Like limiting how much the fan speed can change in a given second? When i was using PWM headers on my motherboard i got around this by using a setting in my BIOS similar to the one i just mentioned.


----------



## war4peace

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AshBorer*
> 
> Thank you! I just installed my A6 last night, ive got a lot of learning to do. Ive looked at some online videos and checked the guides in the OP (some links are broken), ive got a lot of learning to do haha. I love tinkering with my PC though, cant wait to see explore aquasuite has to offer.
> 
> While i'm here i've got another question... im not water cooling so my temp readings - usually on the cpu - can be fairly spiky which can cause the fans to spontaneously rev up for a split second. Is there a way to avoid this? Like limiting how much the fan speed can change in a given second? When i was using PWM headers on my motherboard i got around this by using a setting in my BIOS similar to the one i just mentioned.


The method I mentioned earlier (Set point controller) does exactly that, it has a setting called "control speed" which you can change from "Fastest" to "Slowest" and if you're an expert it also has a custom mode which I looked at then proudly ignored... 'cause it makes me feel stupid







(that means, I didn't understand it well enough).


----------



## Jubijub

I had a good run at it tonight, and got this much configured :
- sensors, including my 7 physical, 3 virtual (min air, Max water, Delta T°), and 3 soft to have CPU and GPU temps
- pumps
- fans, set on PWM 450-2000/2400 TRM for 140/120
- controllers
- I got a set point on Delta T° at 10°C... Which shuts down all fans as on light window tasks my system can run passive with just the pump on, YAY !!!!
I put it at 8° for testing, it takes less than 30sec @ 700trm to lose 4°C. Can't wait to try it under load, and with some OC
- I put a fixed 70% for the pumps (at 60% the pump make a bad high pitch noise). Not sure how to set it so that it runs 100% of Delta T goes over X without configuring a curve. But curve seem to have 10 points, where all I need would be 3
- information screens
- 1 data log for the Delta T°, to show a chart

Everything is recognized and works, so all good on this front.

I will post screens if anyone is interested.
Now I need to figure how to make a nice dashboard under Aquasuite


----------



## Jubijub

I finally got my controllers where I wanted them to be :
- the top rad has always on fans, so the mobo / ram get a bit of air (the option to get this is tricky, it took a fair bit of trial / errors)
- the 560 / 280 are shut down in low load


I am doing a load test, this thing is really a beauty : with a target set at 8°C, 6900K @ 4.2/1.20V @100% makes Delta T° temp oscillates between 7.2 and 9.1 (both of which are peaks), but 90% of values are between 7.5 and 8.5. Water nevers get hotter than 31.5°

Now I need to understand how to trigger the relay if something bad happens
I also need to understand how my Asus X99-Deluxe II mobo can react if CPU RPM goes to 0 (I understand it produces a message at post, which is marginally interesting).


----------



## Jubijub

@Shoggy :

I found a pretty annoying bug : when using a virtual sensor based on min/max/avg value of multiple physical sensors, if one gets unplugged, the whole setup goes crazy.

How to reproduce :
- set a virtual sensor, for instance : minimum(Sensor 1, Sensor 2)
- set a controler that uses this virtual sensor as a data source
My particular exemple : I have 2 water sensors, and so I have a "Water" virtual sensor that is max(CPU water sensor, Reservoir water sensor). I tinkered with my PC, and accidentally unplugged the res sensor.

What happens :
- the controller won't work, as the virtual sensor will read : -.-- C°
I guess I know what happens : the sensor being unplugged, its value is not 0°C, it's NULL. And min(28.0C, null) doesn't resolve in 28.0C, it resolves in null

What should happen :
- if one sensor brings a value of null, formula should fall back on existing sensors value, and raise an alert. In my case, I would have prefered the Water sensor to read "28.0", and have an alert saying that the reservoir water sensor had no reading.

In my view this makes setup with min/max/avg pretty dangerous, as if one sensor fails, the whole virtual sensor gets broken.


----------



## jvillaveces

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> The lowspeed port has been disabled a long time ago and serves as second flow sensor port since the last aquasuite update.


What kind of devices are connected to the Flow and AB/low ports? Are they exclusively for old style "High Flow Sensors", or do they accept the newer USB-based variants? If so, how should the sensors be connected?


----------



## tomsonx1983

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jvillaveces*
> 
> What kind of devices are connected to the Flow and AB/low ports? Are they exclusively for old style "High Flow Sensors", or do they accept the newer USB-based variants? If so, how should the sensors be connected?


They for standard 3pin flow sensors


----------



## NYSE

Need some help guys..

EK EVO 140 ER Fans. Fluctuating Power Issue w/ Aquaero 6

I recently purchased some of the new EVO 140ER fans, there the 2000RPM

When I switched them out from the old EK F3's, for some reason on my aquaero software if I put the power setting at full the 'current' power is all over the place it speeds up and down on its own from .18A to 35-40A when I try to slide the power up or down it does nothing. Now the fans have mind of there own... I know my aquaero software works fine as the other F3's I just pulled out worked properly and I can control teh speed via voltage no problem.

For some reason I cannot control the speed of the fans myself at all with these EVO's.

I control my fans via power on the header on the aquaero 6 and I use a splitty9 that splits out to 4 fans per header on teh aquaero. Never had an issue until I changed to these new fans no clue what Im doing wrong?

Any help resolving would be appreciated.










(As you can see from the screenshot the power is at 100 yet the current reads 0.17A and the fans barely spin for a while then briefly will spin faster for a moment then slow down again)


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NYSE*
> 
> Need some help guys..
> 
> EK EVO 140 ER Fans. Fluctuating Power Issue w/ Aquaero 6
> 
> I recently purchased some of the new EVO 140ER fans, there the 2000RPM
> 
> When I switched them out from the old EK F3's, for some reason on my aquaero software if I put the power setting at full the 'current' power is all over the place it speeds up and down on its own from .18A to 35-40A when I try to slide the power up or down it does nothing. Now the fans have mind of there own... I know my aquaero software works fine as the other F3's I just pulled out worked properly and I can control teh speed via voltage no problem.
> 
> For some reason I cannot control the speed of the fans myself at all with these EVO's.
> 
> I control my fans via power on the header on the aquaero 6 and I use a splitty9 that splits out to 4 fans per header on teh aquaero. Never had an issue until I changed to these new fans no clue what Im doing wrong?
> 
> Any help resolving would be appreciated.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (As you can see from the screenshot the power is at 100 yet the current reads 0.17A and the fans barely spin for a while then briefly will spin faster for a moment then slow down again)
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Could be because you have to have the new EVOs on PWM control . . . .









I'd certainly try that first


----------



## NYSE

I tried that did nothing sadly.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NYSE*
> 
> I tried that did nothing sadly.


Is your splitty 9 configured for PWM


----------



## NYSE

I havent changed anything on the Splitty9. It has 4 pin outs on each header if thats what your referring to?.

How would I configure it differently?


----------



## jura11

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NYSE*
> 
> I havent changed anything on the Splitty9. It has 4 pin outs on each header if thats what your referring to?.
> 
> How would I configure it differently?


Hi there

As Darlene @IT Diva suggested can you check SPLITTY9 and if fan is set to PWM not Aquabus, there on SPLITTY9 you have small jumper where you can set Aquabus or PWM



If this doesn't help try run fans without SPLITTY9

Hope this helps

Thanks, Jura


----------



## NYSE

Mine is set just like the image you posted.

I just noticed something strange, if I disconnect all but 1 fan from the Splitty9 then I am able to control a single EVO fan via the voltage just fine.

If plug all 4 fans in to the Splitty9 the problem arises again.

I have some spare brand new Splitty9's I swapped out for a new one to see if this one has an issue but a brand new one acts the same way as well.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NYSE*
> 
> Mine is set just like the image you posted.
> 
> I just noticed something strange, if I disconnect all but 1 fan from the Splitty9 then I am able to control a single EVO fan via the voltage just fine.
> 
> If plug all 4 fans in to the Splitty9 the problem arises again.
> 
> I have some spare brand new Splitty9's I swapped out for a new one to see if this one has an issue but a brand new one acts the same way as well.


Change the jumper position on your splitty 9 and try again . . .

Be sure there's a fan plugged into the outlined RPM header


----------



## NYSE

Changing the jumper now gives me a rotation speed reading in the aquasuite software.

I made sure a fan is in the RPM header.

Changed the setting to PWM controlled in aquasuite.

Did not resolve anything.

*UPDATE**

The fix was to modify the Splitty9.

I ran the 4 pin input from the aquaero to the output of the Splitty9, 1 fan on the RPM labeled header and the other 3 you have to cut the 3 pin on each header.

Resolved the EK EVO issue with the aquaero


----------



## M-oll

Is it possible to use an Aquaero 6 to control an Iwaki RD-30? I want the pump to start when I turn on my computer and then use the Aquaero to regulate the speed of the pump depending on ΔT. Is that possible with the Iwaki RD-30 or should I just go with one or two D5s instead?


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M-oll*
> 
> Is it possible to use an Aquaero 6 to control an Iwaki RD-30? I want the pump to start when I turn on my computer and then use the Aquaero to regulate the speed of the pump depending on ΔT. Is that possible with the Iwaki RD-30 or should I just go with one or two D5s instead?


Generally speaking, it makes no sense to vary the pump speed, as it has negligible effect on temps as long as it's high enough to ensure turbulent flow in the rads. (if the rads have turbulent flow, then the blocks will also).

At most, you might want to use a low / hi (two speed) setup when using a very loud pump, so that you could stay just at, or slightly under, the knee of turbulent flow when there is very little heat load, and then a higher speed when heat load required the system operate at high efficiency.

The rule of thumb is to strive for a nominal 1GPM flow rate.

Once you get to 1.25 or 1.5 GPM, the temps just don't get any better, as you'll hit a point of diminishing returns tor you system.

A lot of systems seem to manage quite satisfactorily at 0.75GPM, and still others at a bit less than that, so the 1GPM is a good guideline, but not a hard and fast rule.

One caveat, if you have a flow rate on the low side of the 1GPM spec, you'll usually be better off with all the blocks in series, though a pair of D5's is more than sufficient for even the very large loops.

The Iwaki is big, noisy, ugly, and takes up a lot of space. It's way more than you need for whatever you can put in almost any case.

You can get D5's in PWM control versions, so that if you decide you need to control their speed, it's super easy with an A6


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NYSE*
> 
> Changing the jumper now gives me a rotation speed reading in the aquasuite software.
> 
> I made sure a fan is in the RPM header.
> 
> Changed the setting to PWM controlled in aquasuite.
> 
> Did not resolve anything.
> 
> *UPDATE**
> 
> The fix was to modify the Splitty9.
> 
> I ran the 4 pin input from the aquaero to the output of the Splitty9, 1 fan on the RPM labeled header and the other 3 you have to cut the 3 pin on each header.
> 
> Resolved the EK EVO issue with the aquaero


It's most likely an issue similar to BeQuiet SilentWings 3 PWM fans. They just don't work properly in PWM. I just use a 3-pin cable instead of the 4-pin cable for my BQ SW3.


----------



## Aenra

And there was me, asking a reviewer in the EK thread to include voltage regulating RPM scales in his future reviews.. a suggestion that other posters somehow found to be backward thinking 

Is there anyway we can make sure if they have an issue with PWM? Your posts leave it ambiguous, but might be me having misunderstood.

(talking about the new EKs, Silent Wings 3 we already know)


----------



## AshBorer

delete


----------



## Jubijub

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Generally speaking, it makes no sense to vary the pump speed, as it has negligible effect on temps as long as it's high enough to ensure turbulent flow in the rads. (if the rads have turbulent flow, then the blocks will also).
> 
> At most, you might want to use a low / hi (two speed) setup when using a very loud pump, so that you could stay just at, or slightly under, the knee of turbulent flow when there is very little heat load, and then a higher speed when heat load required the system operate at high efficiency.
> 
> The rule of thumb is to strive for a nominal 1GPM flow rate.
> 
> Once you get to 1.25 or 1.5 GPM, the temps just don't get any better, as you'll hit a point of diminishing returns tor you system.
> 
> A lot of systems seem to manage quite satisfactorily at 0.75GPM, and still others at a bit less than that, so the 1GPM is a good guideline, but not a hard and fast rule.
> 
> One caveat, if you have a flow rate on the low side of the 1GPM spec, you'll usually be better off with all the blocks in series, though a pair of D5's is more than sufficient for even the very large loops.
> 
> The Iwaki is big, noisy, ugly, and takes up a lot of space. It's way more than you need for whatever you can put in almost any case.
> 
> You can get D5's in PWM control versions, so that if you decide you need to control their speed, it's super easy with an A6


Hum... I get 0.75GPM with 2xD5 @ 65%, measured at the end of the circuit before the reservoir
I didn't realize I was on the low end of Flow rates.

Oh well, temps are quite good so no complains


----------



## Aenra

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jubijub*
> 
> Hum... I get 0.75GPM with 2xD5 @ 65%


Is that with the system on your sig? Seems abyssmaly low for a dual D5 setup.. what are you doing in there?


----------



## Shoggy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jubijub*
> 
> I found a pretty annoying bug : when using a virtual sensor based on min/max/avg value of multiple physical sensors, if one gets unplugged, the whole setup goes crazy.
> 
> (...)


I will forward that to our programmer as soon as he comes back from holiday.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jvillaveces*
> 
> What kind of devices are connected to the Flow and AB/low ports? Are they exclusively for old style "High Flow Sensors", or do they accept the newer USB-based variants? If so, how should the sensors be connected?


You can only connect 3-pin flow sensor with a mechanical impeller. This port has nothing to do anymore with the aquabus.


----------



## M-oll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Generally speaking, it makes no sense to vary the pump speed, as it has negligible effect on temps as long as it's high enough to ensure turbulent flow in the rads. (if the rads have turbulent flow, then the blocks will also).
> 
> At most, you might want to use a low / hi (two speed) setup when using a very loud pump, so that you could stay just at, or slightly under, the knee of turbulent flow when there is very little heat load, and then a higher speed when heat load required the system operate at high efficiency.
> 
> The rule of thumb is to strive for a nominal 1GPM flow rate.
> 
> Once you get to 1.25 or 1.5 GPM, the temps just don't get any better, as you'll hit a point of diminishing returns tor you system.
> 
> A lot of systems seem to manage quite satisfactorily at 0.75GPM, and still others at a bit less than that, so the 1GPM is a good guideline, but not a hard and fast rule.
> 
> One caveat, if you have a flow rate on the low side of the 1GPM spec, you'll usually be better off with all the blocks in series, though a pair of D5's is more than sufficient for even the very large loops.
> 
> The Iwaki is big, noisy, ugly, and takes up a lot of space. It's way more than you need for whatever you can put in almost any case.
> 
> You can get D5's in PWM control versions, so that if you decide you need to control their speed, it's super easy with an A6


Thank you for your informative post. I'll just stick with one or two D5 pumps then. Depending on if I do a single or dual loop.


----------



## tomsonx1983

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> I will forward that to our programmer as soon as he comes back from holiday.
> You can only connect 3-pin flow sensor with a mechanical impeller. This port has nothing to do anymore with the aquabus.


Shoggy can a latching relay function be implemented in firmware since emergency cut off dosent work right ?


----------



## wheatpaste1999

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jubijub*
> 
> isn't there a 3rd, using the relay plug (http://shop.aquacomputer.de/product_info.php?products_id=2665&language=en) on NO+COM wired to the power button wires ?


Just wanted to report that this is what I am using with an Aquaero 6LT, and it seems to be working as intended, basically just like holding down the power button on the PC in order to force a shutdown. Motherboard is an Asus Maximus IX Hero (Z270). BIOS is set to stay powered off in event of power interruption.

I just spliced in the wires for the relay inline with the power button wiring at the mobo header connection. I used the normally open + COM pins on the relay, and in Aquasuite the relay is set to close for 10s under emergency shutdown scenario (for example if water pump speed reports as zero or water temp exceeds a certain value).

I've tested the behavior several ways and the computer will indeed shutdown rather quickly, and most importantly stay powered off. I originally was planning to use the 24-pin connection at the PSU, but using the power button wiring was easier for me to do and still seems to work for my purposes. Your mileage may vary, but wanted to report that this method can work with a fairly modern motherboard.


----------



## Juris

I need to replace the molex power connector on my Aquaero 6XT with an angled connector due to space restrictions trying to mount it. Wondering if you guys can have a look at the pics below and let me know if this is the right one to use. Cheers.


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Juris*
> 
> I need to replace the molex power connector on my Aquaero 6XT with an angled connector due to space restrictions trying to mount it. Wondering if you guys can have a look at the pics below and let me know if this is the right one to use. Cheers.


There allot of OEM versions out there. It look like it's the right one, just make sure the tail is long enough to pass through the panel holes once you de-solder the original "Molex" PCB.

This is what TE version looks like.




link(Right Angle version): https://www.mouser.com/productdetail/te-connectivity-amp/770846-1?qs=sGAEpiMZZMuzXLcWrSfMr7GmTK12wjR23OFijeZHYqQ%3D


----------



## Jubijub

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aenra*
> 
> Is that with the system on your sig? Seems abyssmaly low for a dual D5 setup.. what are you doing in there?


This is the "fast learner" build in my sig. The sensor is just before the reservoir, so quite a lot happens before :
-2x 1080Ti rads in parallel
-1x Mobo +CPU rad
- 1x 480
- 1x 280
- 1x 560

I need to check but it seems the sensor uses the right calibration value in Aquasuite...

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> I will forward that to our programmer as soon as he comes back from holiday.


Thanks !


----------



## Juris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> There allot of OEM versions out there. It look like it's the right one, just make sure the tail is long enough to pass through the panel holes once you de-solder the original "Molex" PCB.
> 
> This is what TE version looks like.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> link(Right Angle version): https://www.mouser.com/productdetail/te-connectivity-amp/770846-1?qs=sGAEpiMZZMuzXLcWrSfMr7GmTK12wjR23OFijeZHYqQ%3D


Thanks Revan for the confirmation, advice and the link. That looks just like the one I have alright. Now to try and get it rigged up to complete the build without blowing myself up. I could think of worse ways to go. Cheers.


----------



## Dasandmancometh

Just updated to the 3.2 and unless I'm completely having a brain fart, the ability to assign fan 1 to flow sensor is missing. Did this change from how it was assigned in previous iterations? Can anyone tell me how to do this if it did change?


----------



## Ashcroft

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dasandmancometh*
> 
> Just updated to the 3.2 and unless I'm completely having a brain fart, the ability to assign fan 1 to flow sensor is missing. Did this change from how it was assigned in previous iterations? Can anyone tell me how to do this if it did change?


I didn't know that had changed but it may be because the Aquabus LOW speed port is now a flow meter input.


----------



## Ashcroft

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jubijub*
> 
> Hum... I get 0.75GPM with 2xD5 @ 65%, measured at the end of the circuit before the reservoir
> I didn't realize I was on the low end of Flow rates.
> 
> Oh well, temps are quite good so no complains


If you are using the Formula VRM block then its quite restrictive I believe.

Also, pump power is not linear. The D5's produce more of their pressure in the last 1/3 of their speed range so 65% PWM may be about 65% of max speed but it is not 65% of max pressure..


----------



## Shoggy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tomsonx1983*
> 
> Shoggy can a latching relay function be implemented in firmware since emergency cut off dosent work right ?


Maybe I got your question wrong but that should be already possible. If you switch the relay as alarm action (without given time) it should stay in this position if power via USB is still present.


----------



## Jubijub

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ashcroft*
> 
> If you are using the Formula VRM block then its quite restrictive I believe.
> 
> Also, pump power is not linear. The D5's produce more of their pressure in the last 1/3 of their speed range so 65% PWM may be about 65% of max speed but it is not 65% of max pressure..


I am using EKWB Asus X99-Deluxe block

For the pressure I will test @100% to see how much GPM I get
I am not overly worried : my temps are good (full load = 60° CPU ([email protected]@1.20v) with fans @ 900 RPM, 55° if fans @1500rpm, with 2 GPUs.


----------



## tomsonx1983

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> Maybe I got your question wrong but that should be already possible. If you switch the relay as alarm action (without given time) it should stay in this position if power via USB is still present.


Yep i did that
Alarm level 3 emergency shutdown - relay on
emergency shutdown message appears on aquaero relay cuts ps-on line
psu shutdowns
aquaero is still powered via usb
than after few seconds relay change it state and pc power back up in to shutdown poweron loop until flow get back or temps go lower


----------



## Dasandmancometh

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ashcroft*
> 
> I didn't know that had changed but it may be because the Aquabus LOW speed port is now a flow meter input.


**edited** where is this documented?


----------



## Juris

Sorry for yet another question but just prepping my MPS Flow 400 to fit it into the loop and noticed there seems to be very poor finishing on the inside of the unit right in the centre. Am I ok to just pull this stuff out with a tweezers. I don't want to damage the sensor.


----------



## Syberon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tomsonx1983*
> 
> than after few seconds relay change it state and pc power back up in to shutdown poweron loop until flow get back or temps go lower


I think this behaviour is because you have enabled option "Restore on AC Power Loss" in BIOS. Turn it off and you PC doesn't startup again after Aquaero relay is change state.


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Juris*
> 
> Sorry for yet another question but just prepping my MPS Flow 400 to fit it into the loop and noticed there seems to be very poor finishing on the inside of the unit right in the centre. Am I ok to just pull this stuff out with a tweezers. I don't want to damage the sensor.


It's likely what was left over from the drill when creating the ports. I don't recall see that in mine. It will likely get flush from it once you do leak test. I think from the picture it's just acrylic nothing to do with the sensor.


----------



## Juris

Thanks again Revan. I removed what I could with a tweezers and a paper clip. Some of the shards were definitely large enough to jam cpu water block fins so not very impressed with Aquacomputers QA at this stage. Had similar issues with a replacement black faceplate for the 6 XT I bought at the same time. Lumps of material on the inside dead center of the circular cut out to the point the glass wouldn't fit in a month of Sundays. Had to file it down gently taking about an hour being careful not to damage the finish. Same again with the Poweradjust faceplate but to a much lesser extent and at least the protruding metal from the manufacturing process there wont interfere with other components. Just hope this isn't a pattern forming with my AC experience.


----------



## Aenra

Not judging, only wondering here; haven't seen your backplate, so no comments there, happy to take your word for it.

But regarding the above pic, are you sure you're not exaggerating? What can be glimpsed from it doesn't look like something to be that concerned about.

Again, wondering, not implying.


----------



## Juris

Hi Aenra there were clumps of material in the centre groove where the sensor resides beyond the G1/4 threading. What I could capture on camera were just the tops of the clumps.

A pic of the power adjust backplate is below. The black replacement faceplate for the Aquaero was about 2 to 3 times that protrusion to file away (on the inside where it sits flush with the glass) before it was usable. Not too bothered about the power adjust backplate as its not going into a bay but is being used as a cover for the back section of the Aquaero which is separated from the front lcd/touch panel.

The imperfection on the faceplate was a bother though. The original silver one was perfect. Anything mass produced with likely have anomalies but 3 parts in a row isn't very comforting. Still its all 1st world problems.


----------



## Aenra

Yeah, fair enough, i see what you mean now 

(needing to file it down is definitely on the 'negative' side of things, lol, no argument there)

For those grooves, i'd try fiber cloth myself.. wet it, stuff and twist it inside and start rotating it, see if that suffices before trying anything more 'effective'.

As an aside, that filter they sell? I'd advise one; not to have inside the loop, but for prepping purposes. Daisy-chain your components as you would for the real thing, but externally; have the pump run properly and flush everything out before disassembling and putting it in for good. Like so:

Pump OUT-> cpu block -> gpu block -> sensors -> rad1 -> rad2 -> radx -> filter -> pump IN.

Am planning to do just that for at least a full day once my chassis arrives and in that sequence, considering it's usually the rads having the most crap in them.. better to have them last in order.


----------



## Jubijub

I made a post for my flow issues : http://www.overclock.net/t/1645607/ony-1-gpm-with-2xd5-100-is-anything-wrong/0_20#post_26544825

I have just reinstalled Aquasuite on the computer (since I formatted everything for a dual boot), and I realise that settings don't memorize component names, although dashboards seem unaffected by this.


----------



## Shoggy

@Revan654 there are no sensitive parts nearby so that you can remove the chips without worrying to damage something. Sorry that these steps are necessary on your side









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dasandmancometh*
> 
> **edited** where is this documented?


Here for example.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tomsonx1983*
> 
> Yep i did that
> Alarm level 3 emergency shutdown - relay on
> emergency shutdown message appears on aquaero relay cuts ps-on line
> psu shutdowns
> aquaero is still powered via usb
> than after few seconds relay change it state and pc power back up in to shutdown poweron loop until flow get back or temps go lower


Will have to ask our programmer about the automatic reset when he is back in the office on Monday.
When you say that the PC keeps going on and off till the alarm does not exist anymore, I assume there is something wrong with your setup. Which aquaero do you have and how is your relay connected (which pins)? Screenshots of your alarm configuration and actions would be also helpful.


----------



## jsutter71

This is getting frustrating. With the previous version you could control your D5 USB pump by the pump's user interface but after the changes it always defaults back to 60 and I have to use the Aquaero tab unbder pumps. How do I restore the ability to control my pumps from the individual pumps MPS tab in the software and how do I keep it from defaulting back to 60% every time I turn it on? I like the older software better. Easier to configure. And why do coders always change things that work?


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Juris*
> 
> Thanks again Revan. I removed what I could with a tweezers and a paper clip. Some of the shards were definitely large enough to jam cpu water block fins so not very impressed with Aquacomputers QA at this stage. Had similar issues with a replacement black faceplate for the 6 XT I bought at the same time. Lumps of material on the inside dead center of the circular cut out to the point the glass wouldn't fit in a month of Sundays. Had to file it down gently taking about an hour being careful not to damage the finish. Same again with the Poweradjust faceplate but to a much lesser extent and at least the protruding metal from the manufacturing process there wont interfere with other components. Just hope this isn't a pattern forming with my AC experience.


Didn't run into any issues on my PA3 on my faceplates or backplates. I also used different screws and hardware. Didn't want silver screws on a black faceplate.

----

Just send an E-mail to AQ if you need anything replaced. They are more then happy to help and replace the item if needed. Only issue I've had was with the OLED screen with Vision. AQ just replaced them and sent me brand new ones.


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jsutter71*
> 
> This is getting frustrating. With the previous version you could control your D5 USB pump by the pump's user interface but after the changes it always defaults back to 60 and I have to use the Aquaero tab unbder pumps. How do I restore the ability to control my pumps from the individual pumps MPS tab in the software and how do I keep it from defaulting back to 60% every time I turn it on? I like the older software better. Easier to configure. And why do coders always change things that work?


I havn't used the new firmware or software yet. Make sure your saving everything to a profile once you set everything up.


----------



## Dasandmancometh

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> @Revan654 there are no sensitive parts nearby so that you can remove the chips without worrying to damage something. Sorry that these steps are necessary on your side
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here for example.
> Will have to ask our programmer about the automatic reset when he is back in the office on Monday.
> When you say that the PC keeps going on and off till the alarm does not exist anymore, I assume there is something wrong with your setup. Which aquaero do you have and how is your relay connected (which pins)? Screenshots of your alarm configuration and actions would be also helpful.


Thanks, didn't know this existed.


----------



## GTXJackBauer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> I havn't used the new firmware or software yet. Make sure your saving everything to a profile once you set everything up.


I was thinking the same thing. Seems like the set settings aren't being saved to the AQ (Small Icon you can click to save to the unit) and a profile saved in the software itself.


----------



## Jubijub

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GTXJackBauer*
> 
> I was thinking the same thing. Seems like the set settings aren't being saved to the AQ (Small Icon you can click to save to the unit) and a profile saved in the software itself.


I agree, after a restore there is a handful of setups to be done again manually


----------



## Shoggy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jsutter71*
> 
> This is getting frustrating. With the previous version you could control your D5 USB pump by the pump's user interface but after the changes it always defaults back to 60 and I have to use the Aquaero tab unbder pumps. How do I restore the ability to control my pumps from the individual pumps MPS tab in the software and how do I keep it from defaulting back to 60% every time I turn it on? I like the older software better. Easier to configure. And why do coders always change things that work?


Being able to control it directly in the mps tab is only possible by disconnecting the pumps from the aquaero. So far we had that priority thing where you had to select if you want to use USB or aquabus and it caused nothing but problems because many customers called us or wrote mails because they claimed their aquabus connection does not work correctly but in the end they just forgot to change the priority.

To get rid off these unnecessary phone calls and mails we changed the behavior of the device to use aquabus automatically as soon as it is connected. In the end the device does what almost all customers expect to happen when they connect it via aquabus.


----------



## Cozmo85

Got my mps board soldered in and my pump works again with aquabus. Thanks shoggy!


----------



## BatteryKing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> @Revan654 there are no sensitive parts nearby so that you can remove the chips without worrying to damage something. Sorry that these steps are necessary on your side
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here for example.
> Will have to ask our programmer about the automatic reset when he is back in the office on Monday.
> When you say that the PC keeps going on and off till the alarm does not exist anymore, I assume there is something wrong with your setup. Which aquaero do you have and how is your relay connected (which pins)? Screenshots of your alarm configuration and actions would be also helpful.


Hi Shoggy,
I have also been seeing and bringing up this issue with the Aquaero 6 relay for emergency shutdown via the 24-pin ATX connector. I have an ASUS board and in the BIOS I set it to NOT power back on after power loss. For the emergency off function on the Aquaero 6 XT I used the normally connected side of the relay and configured it to just turn on (shut off the computer and hold) once something triggers an emergency shutdown. With this setup the system yo-yo's on and off indefinitely until user intervention even though one would think the BIOS setting or the setting I made in the Aquaero 6 would do the trick, however neither setting does it. I ended up using a physical 'latching' relay directed connected to the 24-pin ATX connector and switched over the the normally open side of the Aquaero 6 relay to signal the latching relay instead of breaking the POWER_ON wire directly. (This relay uses a mechanical spring loaded 5V relay and a JK style frequency halving flop-flop for the 'latching' function.) It would be nice to directly use the Aquaero 6 as opposed to this work-a-round. I get the sense ASUS engineers don't understand that unexpected power loss can mean just the POWER_ON line gets cut while the 5V standby power pin stays energized and the Aquaero 6 for whatever reason resets after it detects the system is powered off (but still has standby power). I even went the extra mile of directly soldering the 5V USB wire for the Aquaero 6 directly to the 5V standby power pin and used a digital multi-meter to monitor voltage on various pins including 5V standby and USB 5V and found that 5V is always there for both USB and 5V standby with my system. (Making the direct wiring to the power supply for the Aquaero 6 unnecessary for continuous power.)


----------



## jsutter71

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> Being able to control it directly in the mps tab is only possible by disconnecting the pumps from the aquaero. So far we had that priority thing where you had to select if you want to use USB or aquabus and it caused nothing but problems because many customers called us or wrote mails because they claimed their aquabus connection does not work correctly but in the end they just forgot to change the priority.
> 
> To get rid off these unnecessary phone calls and mails we changed the behavior of the device to use aquabus automatically as soon as it is connected. In the end the device does what almost all customers expect to happen when they connect it via aquabus.


I guess I'm one of the few who didn't have any issues. So what settings, if any should I use for the MPS tabs for those pumps. Was this change in software also applied to the farbwerk? My primary use of the ferbwerk LED's was for display purposes, not alarm notifications to which the settings are focused towards. Is their a good reference guide that incorporates all these software changes since I haven't seen updated manuals yet?


----------



## Ashcroft

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Juris*
> 
> Sorry for yet another question but just prepping my MPS Flow 400 to fit it into the loop and noticed there seems to be very poor finishing on the inside of the unit right in the centre. Am I ok to just pull this stuff out with a tweezers. I don't want to damage the sensor.


That seems to be relatively normal for the flow sensors as mine are a little rough too though less so. As others have said the sensor components are buried in the housing and only accessible through two tiny holes from the ports so you are fine to poke around. I and others have drilled the centre orifice out to change MPS 100 models to 400 and it's perfectly safe.


----------



## Shoggy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tomsonx1983*
> 
> than after few seconds relay change it state and pc power back up in to shutdown poweron loop until flow get back or temps go lower


I can confirm now that this behavior is "correct". We changed that a long time ago because we had many customers that configured the relay the wrong way so the PC turned off but afterwards they were not able to start it again because the relay would not switch back (if you did it the wrong way). Because of this the relay resets itself after a while.

That your PC starts up again must have something to do with the BIOS settings. Usually you should be able to configure how the PC will react if power has been cut without intention (like the aquaero does) and comes back again.


----------



## Syberon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> That your PC starts up again must have something to do with the BIOS settings. Usually you should be able to configure how the PC will react if power has been cut without intention (like the aquaero does) and comes back again.


I wrote to *tomsonx1983* the same about BIOS settings 2 pages ago)


----------



## tomsonx1983

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> I can confirm now that this behavior is "correct". We changed that a long time ago because we had many customers that configured the relay the wrong way so the PC turned off but afterwards they were not able to start it again because the relay would not switch back (if you did it the wrong way). Because of this the relay resets itself after a while.
> 
> That your PC starts up again must have something to do with the BIOS settings. Usually you should be able to configure how the PC will react if power has been cut without intention (like the aquaero does) and comes back again.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Syberon*
> 
> I wrote to *tomsonx1983* the same about BIOS settings 2 pages ago)


My motherboard is set to stay off after power cut but it keep to start up again, same as few other with modern asus boards, not sure about other brands
But asus x99 and z370 confirmed that they will starts up after power cut on psu_on line regardless of bios setting to stay off


----------



## Aenra

No offense to @Shoggy, but would it not perhaps be better to incorporate the relay on the aquaero (rather than selling it separately) and provide a header of sorts that could only be plugged in one way? Even if that meant redesigning the separate 24pin cable you sell?

I can understand user error, you're a business so first thing you want to do is minimize the chances of that occuring, but judging by your description, it kinda looks like you guys went the wrong way about it.

Regardless, if AC could perhaps test one of the aforementioned mobos with the current relay setup, am sure that would help clear thigns up.

(again, no offense meant, just an opinion; for all i know, may well be everything works fine; everywhere)


----------



## ruffhi

I just updated my Aquasuite software to 2017-3.3 (I think it is .3) and it went through very easily. The only hard part was that I had to assume I had the right install file. There was nothing to tell what version the install file was ... nothing in the file name, nothing in the file details.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tomsonx1983*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> I can confirm now that this behavior is "correct". We changed that a long time ago because we had many customers that configured the relay the wrong way so the PC turned off but afterwards they were not able to start it again because the relay would not switch back (if you did it the wrong way). Because of this the relay resets itself after a while.
> 
> That your PC starts up again must have something to do with the BIOS settings. Usually you should be able to configure how the PC will react if power has been cut without intention (like the aquaero does) and comes back again.
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Syberon*
> 
> I wrote to *tomsonx1983* the same about BIOS settings 2 pages ago)
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> *My motherboard is set to stay off after power cut but it keep to start up again*, same as few other with modern asus boards, not sure about other brands
> But asus x99 and z370 confirmed that they will starts up after power cut on psu_on line regardless of bios setting to stay off
Click to expand...

As previously posted, y'all continue to conflate the setting for power behavior after AC power fail with "power button behavior"

Set the button to instant off, not "hold 4 seconds", in a lot of cases, that should help.

Otherwise, if you don't have an option for power button, you'll need to do the cap and schottky diode mod to an auxiliary relay.


----------



## tomsonx1983

My m8 have it working on rampage iv black edition about 4 years ago and it was working but im assume thats was on older aquaero firmware
Before relay behavior chnged
So now becouse users whos did it wrong and was they fault
We dont have working emergency psu cut off
I feel more safe with psu cutoff than emergency shut of by power switch connection


----------



## lemniscate

After almost 5 years my 5 LT will finally be retired, and a 6 LT should be coming this week. Tried using my asus board's fan control, but I just can't live without all the controls offered by aquaero.

Funny I just noticed that the hardware news thread about aquaero 6 I posted in 2013 got to nearly 200 pages before people moved to this thread.


----------



## BatteryKing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> I can confirm now that this behavior is "correct". We changed that a long time ago because we had many customers that configured the relay the wrong way so the PC turned off but afterwards they were not able to start it again because the relay would not switch back (if you did it the wrong way). Because of this the relay resets itself after a while.
> 
> That your PC starts up again must have something to do with the BIOS settings. Usually you should be able to configure how the PC will react if power has been cut without intention (like the aquaero does) and comes back again.


Some of us have a BIOS that does not work the way you say it should. This is out of our control, at least it seems with ASUS (and possibly other) boards. Now you are saying those of us that want your product to work the way we must have it work in order to protect our systems from damage cannot because some people are too dumb to realize they could flip the power switch in the back of their computer to reset? (These sound like the kind of people who would not pop the hood to see why the relay tripped in the first place.) Maybe a compromise by having an option to manually reset the relay from the Aquaero 5/6 XT (those of us with a screen) and remind those who have the LT addition that they can just flip the power switch in the back to reset? While I added in an extra relay to work around this broken 'feature' to make idiots happy, it would be nice to have an option that works. I really prefer the 24-pin ATX power connector route because it is instant, guaranteed off when done right. The power switch method seems best for those who don't mind if some time passes while their hardware potentially cooks, forget about the relay at some point and reconfigure what the front power button does (say you reconfigure it to suspend the system, but the system is locked up and so ends up stuck on), or are willing to risk it if something does not respond right with the motherboard in a real emergency shutdown situation (say coolant is leaking onto the motherboard and the motherboard is puffing smoke and will burst into flames once the coolant leak dries up because it is not quite drawing enough current to trip power protection circuitry, but is enough for ignition temperature, which I have seen happen before and recently, but with a USB short causing motherboard ignition, not a coolant leak), but instead take comfort that their initial nothing is actually wrong test works and are willing to hope for the best when the real problem happens. To put this another way, it seems it really is best for people who care about their hardware (and are trying to avoid the situation of coming home to find their place burnt down due to their computer) if the Aquaero 5/6 relay does not rely on the motherboard for anything more than it has to. However this 'feature' of resetting the relay after power cut shifts things back to having to rely on the motherboard to necessarily behave a certain way or to work around with an additional piece of hardware in the loop.


----------



## Shoggy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jsutter71*
> 
> I guess I'm one of the few who didn't have any issues. So what settings, if any should I use for the MPS tabs for those pumps. Was this change in software also applied to the farbwerk? My primary use of the ferbwerk LED's was for display purposes, not alarm notifications to which the settings are focused towards. Is their a good reference guide that incorporates all these software changes since I haven't seen updated manuals yet?


This has been changed for all aquabus devices that had this priority setting before. Only the aquastream pumps have not been changed. The XT variants can not be updated and the ULTIMATE variant uses a different way to select the aquabus control; it would have made no sense to change that.

You can read about the latest changes here.


----------



## chibi

Hi guys & girls









A few questions about my Aquaero 6 Pro & MPS400 Flow Sensor. I recently got my rig up and running and installed Aquasuite and upgraded both firmwares. By default, with my D5 pump at max speed the MPS400 is showing me a reading of 250LPH / 1.1GPM. How necessary is it to properly calibrate the MPS400? I'm afraid I don't have the necessary tools or know how to calibrate it. I have a fairly simple loop with 1x cpu block, 1x gpu block, 1x res and 2x 420 radiators.

Second, after fiddling around with overclocking, I need to reinstall windows LOL







. I don't have any profiles on the Aquaero configured yet so I'm not worried about saved settings. However, will the Aquaero remember that it's already registered and activated on the new OS install? Or do I need to save a key somewhere first?

Thanks


----------



## tomsonx1983

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BatteryKing*
> 
> Some of us have a BIOS that does not work the way you say it should. This is out of our control, at least it seems with ASUS (and possibly other) boards. Now you are saying those of us that want your product to work the way we must have it work in order to protect our systems from damage cannot because some people are too dumb to realize they could flip the power switch in the back of their computer to reset? (These sound like the kind of people who would not pop the hood to see why the relay tripped in the first place.) Maybe a compromise by having an option to manually reset the relay from the Aquaero 5/6 XT (those of us with a screen) and remind those who have the LT addition that they can just flip the power switch in the back to reset? While I added in an extra relay to work around this broken 'feature' to make idiots happy, it would be nice to have an option that works. I really prefer the 24-pin ATX power connector route because it is instant, guaranteed off when done right. The power switch method seems best for those who don't mind if some time passes while their hardware potentially cooks, forget about the relay at some point and reconfigure what the front power button does (say you reconfigure it to suspend the system, but the system is locked up and so ends up stuck on), or are willing to risk it if something does not respond right with the motherboard in a real emergency shutdown situation (say coolant is leaking onto the motherboard and the motherboard is puffing smoke and will burst into flames once the coolant leak dries up because it is not quite drawing enough current to trip power protection circuitry, but is enough for ignition temperature, which I have seen happen before and recently, but with a USB short causing motherboard ignition, not a coolant leak), but instead take comfort that their initial nothing is actually wrong test works and are willing to hope for the best when the real problem happens. To put this another way, it seems it really is best for people who care about their hardware (and are trying to avoid the situation of coming home to find their place burnt down due to their computer) if the Aquaero 5/6 relay does not rely on the motherboard for anything more than it has to. However this 'feature' of resetting the relay after power cut shifts things back to having to rely on the motherboard to necessarily behave a certain way or to work around with an additional piece of hardware in the loop.


So it looks like becouse of dumb users we lost one of most important functions
On AC side why remove sutch usefull funcion rather made updated manual or appendix to existing one
With explanation of wiring and configuring aquaero for emergency psu cut off


----------



## Syberon

*Shoggy*, i found a bug in aquasuite 2017.3.2. It doesn't save the position of element on overview page if i move it by keyboard arrow keys. It works good if i move element by mouse or set parameters in "Settings" popup dialog.
How to reproduce:
1. start aquasuite
2. unlock overview page
3. select any element on page and move it by keyboard
4. close aquasuite.
5. start aquasuite...and our element located again in position before moving.


----------



## Jubijub

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chibi*
> 
> Hi guys & girls
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A few questions about my Aquaero 6 Pro & MPS400 Flow Sensor. I recently got my rig up and running and installed Aquasuite and upgraded both firmwares. By default, with my D5 pump at max speed the MPS400 is showing me a reading of 250LPH / 1.1GPM. How necessary is it to properly calibrate the MPS400? I'm afraid I don't have the necessary tools or know how to calibrate it. I have a fairly simple loop with 1x cpu block, 1x gpu block, 1x res and 2x 420 radiators.
> 
> Second, after fiddling around with overclocking, I need to reinstall windows LOL
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . I don't have any profiles on the Aquaero configured yet so I'm not worried about saved settings. However, will the Aquaero remember that it's already registered and activated on the new OS install? Or do I need to save a key somewhere first?
> 
> Thanks


1/ Interested if you find out









2/ from the Aquaero tab, you can save the settings, which exports a file you will be able to reimport afterwards
The Aquaero itself will keep the settings, but you won't be able to modify anything without either re-entering the settings in Aquasuite or loading a config file

Warning : config files save mostly everything, but it is still worth checking


----------



## tomsonx1983

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shoggy*
> 
> I can confirm now that this behavior is "correct". We changed that a long time ago because we had many customers that configured the relay the wrong way so the PC turned off but afterwards they were not able to start it again because the relay would not switch back (if you did it the wrong way). Because of this the relay resets itself after a while.
> 
> That your PC starts up again must have something to do with the BIOS settings. Usually you should be able to configure how the PC will react if power has been cut without intention (like the aquaero does) and comes back again.


After more research and info from my mates more motherboards are affected by that major change with relay behavior
And its not affecting only asus and modern motherboards other brands and older gens are affected as well
It was only coincident that issue show up
A lot of users don't reinstall or update stuff like aquasuite or aquaero firmware if it works fine in workstation rigs
If it works leave it working dont u think
But if u do update of aquasuite
New version will force u to update firmware and dont let u to stay on old one or it wont work
If someone upgrade rig and all pc and loop and reassembly it on new parts
Most will check all functions but not all
Thanks to few we find out it
R u know thats a lot of users didint check a relay and emergency shutdown after rebuilding
Now think how many users just update aquasuite but not hardware and didint check it becouse it was not mentioned in changes
A lot of users have set fill sensor set up to emerhency shutdown in case of leak and level drop suddenly
And they dont even know about they not protected by emergency shutdown anyway
For me aquaero it was seen always as professional controller not just cheap fan controller
Some of us pro users does let expensive workstations to render over night and want to be safe in case of emergency
And Aquacomputer treat us pro users like a pro in other way
Not even mention about it
Thanks for Pro Support for Pro user


----------



## Aenra

To be frank, am even more confused now than i was 4 pages back, lol

Unless i've misunderstood: They changed it, somehow the PC can now re-power on its own, even with BIOS set to keep the PC off?

If so, how do you rig it to do what it used to do?

(external solutions are not solutions, you pay for an AQ6+relay+cable, the above's meant to be part of the deal)


----------



## Ashcroft

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chibi*
> 
> Hi guys & girls
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A few questions about my Aquaero 6 Pro & MPS400 Flow Sensor. I recently got my rig up and running and installed Aquasuite and upgraded both firmwares. By default, with my D5 pump at max speed the MPS400 is showing me a reading of 250LPH / 1.1GPM. How necessary is it to properly calibrate the MPS400? I'm afraid I don't have the necessary tools or know how to calibrate it. I have a fairly simple loop with 1x cpu block, 1x gpu block, 1x res and 2x 420 radiators.
> 
> Second, after fiddling around with overclocking, I need to reinstall windows LOL
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . I don't have any profiles on the Aquaero configured yet so I'm not worried about saved settings. However, will the Aquaero remember that it's already registered and activated on the new OS install? Or do I need to save a key somewhere first?
> 
> Thanks


Its not vital to have the flow meter calibrated further than the defaults. It will be fairly close to the real values and if its 0.5Lpm off it will still be consistent so you can see any changes over time or abnormal values that would indicate any problem.

If you give me the inner diameter of hard tube that the flow meter is connected to I can give you a config file that will be more accurate but the best way to do it is to attach a rotameter to the loop and configure the flow meter in place.


----------



## tomsonx1983

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aenra*
> 
> To be frank, am even more confused now than i was 4 pages back, lol
> 
> Unless i've misunderstood: They changed it, somehow the PC can now re-power on its own, even with BIOS set to keep the PC off?
> If so, how do you rig it to do what it used to do?
> (external solutions are not solutions, you pay for an AQ6+relay+cable, the above's meant to be part of the deal)


U cant with out of external solution


----------



## wheatpaste1999

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tomsonx1983*
> 
> U cant with out of external solution


It still works fine for me, even with the latest Aquasuite and firmware update and a fairly modern Asus motherboard (Maximus IX Hero). The only "external" piece that I'm using is the 3-pin wiring block for the relay connection at the Aquaero.

I'm using the power switch wire method, connected to the relay on the NO and COM pins. I have tested it multiple different ways and never had the PC reboot after shutting down when the relay closes.

Not sure why others are having so many issues, but again I wanted to report that it does work as intended for me.


----------



## tomsonx1983

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wheatpaste1999*
> 
> It still works fine for me, even with the latest Aquasuite and firmware update and a fairly modern Asus motherboard (Maximus IX Hero). The only "external" piece that I'm using is the 3-pin wiring block for the relay connection at the Aquaero.
> 
> I'm using the power switch wire method, connected to the relay on the NO and COM pins. I have tested it multiple different ways and never had the PC reboot after shutting down when the relay closes.
> 
> Not sure why others are having so many issues, but again I wanted to report that it does work as intended for me.


As u mentioned u use power switch wire method
But some users prefer psu cutt off and thats not working anymore


----------



## chibi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ashcroft*
> 
> Its not vital to have the flow meter calibrated further than the defaults. It will be fairly close to the real values and if its 0.5Lpm off it will still be consistent so you can see any changes over time or abnormal values that would indicate any problem.
> 
> If you give me the inner diameter of hard tube that the flow meter is connected to I can give you a config file that will be more accurate but the best way to do it is to attach a rotameter to the loop and configure the flow meter in place.


Hi there, I'm using the bitspower 16mm OD / 12mm ID acrylic tubes. Thanks for your help with the calibration!


----------



## Dasandmancometh

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chibi*
> 
> Hi there, I'm using the bitspower 16mm OD / 12mm ID acrylic tubes. Thanks for your help with the calibration!


What flow sensor are you using?


----------



## Aenra

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tomsonx1983*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *wheatpaste1999*
> 
> Not sure why others are having so many issues, but again I wanted to report that it does work as intended for me.
> 
> 
> 
> As u mentioned u use power switch wire method
> But some users prefer psu cutt off and thats not working anymore
Click to expand...

This. We're not talking about the power switch method; and by the way, you don't need a 180euro controller to do that 

We are, specifically, focusing on the cut off straight from the PSU and whether the "new" version prohibits that or not.

No offense meant here, just.. please don't confuse things as it makes it harder for the company rep to provide a response.


----------



## chibi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dasandmancometh*
> 
> What flow sensor are you using?


Hi there, MPS400. Thank you


----------



## Tech22

Has the SilentWings3 PWM and the Aquaero 6 issue been fixed yet? Thank you.


----------



## Aenra

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tech22*
> 
> Has the SilentWings3 PWM and the Aquaero 6 issue been fixed yet? Thank you.


That's not an Aquaero issue, that's a BeQuiet issue. They scale just as bas in all true PWM controllers.

(as a bit of a tip, use the in-thread search tool, this is all mentioned a few pages back)


----------



## Undermoose

Hello all,

New AQ6 XT owner.

I have an issue where I'm not seeing 2.5A power on my header, and fans are capping at about 50% max RPM.

I posted on the manufacturer forum here: https://forum.aquacomputer.de/weitere-foren/english-forum/108189-need-some-performance-help-please/?s=94e094466c9ebbbc7b9b3b2b64371e7e1962feb8

In brief,

AQ6 - Connected to this are 11 EK EVO 140ER fans: https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-vardar-evo-140er-black

AQ6 Fan Header 1: 4 radiator fans.
AQ6 Fan Header 2: 4 side fans (for positive case pressure, not blowing on mobo).
AQ6 Fan Header 3: 2 front intake fans, 1 rear exit fan.
AQ6 Fan Header 4: 2 EK DDC pumps (no power, just PWM signal).

Radiator Controller Curve
Note: 94% Controller Output - @ 58c - RPM 1051 @ 11.4v and 96%


Radiator Fan Settings
Note: 1014 RPM @ 11.4V and 98% Power.
The problem: only 0.62A current with 4 EK Vardar EVO 140ER fans connected (max 2000rpm @ 0.321A)
The question: Why isn't the 2.5A 30Watt Fan Header pushing these 4 fans to 2000RPM @ 98% power and drawing 1.3A?


I am hoping someone will be able to shed some light on this.


----------



## Undermoose

At the moment learning toward DOA unit.

Re-flashed firmware, no dice.

FAN Header 3 operates normally. Increase slider and fans ramp up as expected and current draw increases as expected.

Fan headers 1 and 2 do not.


----------



## Aenra

@Undermoose are they all connected the same way? Have you tried controlling 3 fans on a different channel, see if perhaps they work fine there as well? Before going into curves and fancy stuff, have you tried a straight, fixed driving? If you have, in which channels and with how many fans?


----------



## Undermoose

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aenra*
> 
> @Undermoose
> are they all connected the same way? Have you tried controlling 3 fans on a different channel, see if perhaps they work fine there as well? Before going into curves and fancy stuff, have you tried a straight, fixed driving? If you have, in which channels and with how many fans?


At about 2:30am after exausting all software efforts...

It occured to me to move the connections around on the AQ6 since I had one that was working.

Indeed the problem followed the connection, not the header.... /bagawk!

I then examined the second set of splitters I got from my local shop more closely.... Argh! The 4 pin PWM Y splitter seems to carry only 3 pins. I'm not sure what this is all about, but one thing is clear, the problem is the wiring and not the controller.

I then beat my head on my desk untl I passed out.

Thanks for listening!


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Undermoose*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Aenra*
> 
> @Undermoose
> are they all connected the same way? Have you tried controlling 3 fans on a different channel, see if perhaps they work fine there as well? Before going into curves and fancy stuff, have you tried a straight, fixed driving? If you have, in which channels and with how many fans?
> 
> 
> 
> At about 2:30am after exausting all software efforts...
> 
> It occured to me to move the connections around on the AQ6 since I had one that was working.
> 
> Indeed the problem followed the connection, not the header.... /bagawk!
> 
> I then examined the second set of splitters I got from my local shop more closely.... Argh! The 4 pin PWM Y splitter seems to carry only 3 pins. I'm not sure what this is all about, but one thing is clear, the problem is the wiring and not the controller.
> 
> I then beat my head on my desk untl I passed out.
> 
> Thanks for listening!
Click to expand...

PWM splitters SHOULD carry only 3 pins on all BUT 1 header.

You can only feed 1 tach signal back to the A6.

I'd suggest checking your splitters and put only 1 fan, (on the designated tach signal header) and test progressively from there

If you get a splitter with 1 fan to work on one channel, then see that it works on the other 3, then start adding fans on the splitter, 1 by 1, and go from there


----------



## Aenra

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Undermoose*
> 
> I then beat my head on my desk untl I passed out.
> 
> Thanks for listening!


haha!

You're more than welcome, lol, glad you're sorted


----------



## Undermoose

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> PWM splitters SHOULD carry only 3 pins on all BUT 1 header.
> 
> You can only feed 1 tach signal back to the A6.
> 
> I'd suggest checking your splitters and put only 1 fan, (on the designated tach signal header) and test progressively from there
> 
> If you get a splitter with 1 fan to work on one channel, then see that it works on the other 3, then start adding fans on the splitter, 1 by 1, and go from there


Yeah I figured that out today. Thanks!

So as it turns out the Darkside 4 Pin PWM splitters were the problem. They had 4 pins on both sides. When I dug deeper into the details they said it was a 4 pin PWM splitter for 2 3pin fans OUCH. http://www.performance-pcs.com/internal-&#8230;ed-sleeved.html

I removed these from the system and as long as I carry just one RPM 4 pin to a single fan, no matter how many fans are connected, it works.

Live and learn!


----------



## GTXJackBauer

I'd recommend the SPLITTY9s from AC. They work like a charm. Just be within each channels 30w (2.5A) limits.


----------



## Undermoose

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GTXJackBauer*
> 
> I'd recommend the SPLITTY9s from AC. They work like a charm. Just be within each channels 30w (2.5A) limits.


Yeah I bought one and noticed the 2.5A vs 5A Splitty9 spec. I went to Y Splitters because I wasn't familiar enough with that device.

All set now though, all fans under control


----------



## Aenra

Since you mentioned it, am curious 

(may well be in the manual btw, so feel free to ignore this)

Assume usage of a splitty9 with 'x' number of PWM fans, total amperage below 2.5, splitter on Aquabus side and connected to AQ6's Aquabus header.

That's one going right.

1) Can i daisy-chain more than one splitty9 in the same AQ6 aquabus header? Exactly like the above scenario? And if so, what's my limit?

2) When connected through Aquabus, will the fans still be controllable from the device itself? No software, no curves, just.. controllable?

If you're wondering, am trying to convince myself i need only one AQ6, lol


----------



## lemniscate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lemniscate*
> 
> After almost 5 years my 5 LT will finally be retired, and a 6 LT should be coming this week. Tried using my asus board's fan control, but I just can't live without all the controls offered by aquaero.
> 
> Funny I just noticed that the hardware news thread about aquaero 6 I posted in 2013 got to nearly 200 pages before people moved to this thread.




Finally arrived. May I join the club?


----------



## Undermoose

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lemniscate*
> 
> 
> 
> Finally arrived. May I join the club?


I have an AQ6 too.

1. What exactly are the two 2 pin PWM connections for?
2. What is the NC NO COM 3 pin for?
3. And what hooks up to the RPM header?
4. I believe FLOW is for a specific flow meter made by AC?
5. Aquabus Low / High (got these, they're for AC add-ons)

Yeah seems somewhat self explanatory, but this is a complicated device







Clarification would be good.

Thanks!


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Undermoose*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *lemniscate*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Finally arrived. May I join the club?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have an AQ6 too.
> 
> 1. What exactly are the two 2 pin PWM connections for?
> 2. What is the NC NO COM 3 pin for?
> 3. And what hooks up to the RPM header?
> 4. I believe FLOW is for a specific flow meter made by AC?
> 5. Aquabus Low / High (got these, they're for AC add-ons)
> 
> Yeah seems somewhat self explanatory, but this is a complicated device
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Clarification would be good.
> 
> Thanks!
Click to expand...

The PWM connectors are 12V OUTPUTS that could be used to run single color LEDs up to 1 amp iirc . . . . . DO NOT use them to connect a PWM pump

The NO designates the Normally Open contacts of a relay
The NC designates the Normally Closed contacts of that relay
The COM designates the connection Common to the NO, NC contacts

The RPM header is also an OUTPUT, that sends a faux fan speed signal out. . . . . It could be used to make the mobo "see" a CPU fan for example

The flow and Aquabus connections are more involved, so be sure to study the manual.

For a while, the AQbus LOW was totally unused, but it now can be used with a specific flow device, although I don't recall which one . . . some else will have to chime in on this


----------



## Aenra

Lost all my subs, so.. resubbing.. 
An amazing quality post right there, yessir, only me. It just comes naturally tbh, like, no effort involved.


----------



## Undermoose

*Thanks!*



IT Diva said:


> Quote:Originally Posted by *Undermoose*
> 
> Quote:Originally Posted by *lemniscate*
> 
> *Warning: Spoiler!* (Click to show)
> 
> Finally arrived. May I join the club?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have an AQ6 too.
> 
> 1. What exactly are the two 2 pin PWM connections for?
> 2. What is the NC NO COM 3 pin for?
> 3. And what hooks up to the RPM header?
> 4. I believe FLOW is for a specific flow meter made by AC?
> 5. Aquabus Low / High (got these, they're for AC add-ons)
> 
> Yeah seems somewhat self explanatory, but this is a complicated device
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Clarification would be good.
> 
> Thanks!
> 
> 
> 
> The PWM connectors are 12V OUTPUTS that could be used to run single color LEDs up to 1 amp iirc . . . . . DO NOT use them to connect a PWM pump
> 
> The NO designates the Normally Open contacts of a relay
> The NC designates the Normally Closed contacts of that relay
> The COM designates the connection Common to the NO, NC contacts
> 
> The RPM header is also an OUTPUT, that sends a faux fan speed signal out. . . . . It could be used to make the mobo "see" a CPU fan for example
> 
> 
> The flow and Aquabus connections are more involved, so be sure to study the manual.
> 
> For a while, the AQbus LOW was totally unused, but it now can be used with a specific flow device, although I don't recall which one . . . some else will have to chime in on this


Glad I didn't try to connect my 2 x DDC pumps to the PWM connectors! I was thinking about it.

No idea what a relay is for, so don't plan to connect anything. Thanks for info.

So I can hook my RPM out to my Mobo's CPU header to ensure it's getting single. Nice feature, I believe I'll use it.

I ordered a Aquacomputer Flow sensor high flow USB G1/4. I believe I'll be connecting that to the high flow or aquabus, not sure which yet, need to read manual! https://shop.aquacomputer.de/product_info.php?products_id=2897

Thanks!


----------



## Andrew LB

Undermoose said:


> Quote:Originally Posted by *lemniscate*
> 
> 
> 
> Finally arrived. May I join the club?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have an AQ6 too.
> 
> 1. What exactly are the two 2 pin PWM connections for?
> 2. What is the NC NO COM 3 pin for?
> 3. And what hooks up to the RPM header?
> 4. I believe FLOW is for a specific flow meter made by AC?
> 5. Aquabus Low / High (got these, they're for AC add-ons)
> 
> Yeah seems somewhat self explanatory, but this is a complicated device
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Clarification would be good.
> 
> Thanks!


Manual: Read thoroughly before even plugging in an aquaero device.

http://aquacomputer.de/tl_files/aquacomputer/downloads/manuals/aquaero_5_6_en_2014_04_14.pdf


----------



## Lady Fitzgerald

Andrew LB said:


> Manual: Read thoroughly before even plugging in an aquaero device.
> 
> http://aquacomputer.de/tl_files/aquacomputer/downloads/manuals/aquaero_5_6_en_2014_04_14.pdf


subbed


----------



## Undermoose

*Device is listed as compatible.*



Andrew LB said:


> Manual: Read thoroughly before even plugging in an aquaero device.
> 
> http://aquacomputer.de/tl_files/aquacomputer/downloads/manuals/aquaero_5_6_en_2014_04_14.pdf


These warning do sink in and I do read manuals, for example the Splitty9 is 5A but the header is 2.5A (very important detail).

Do you have any specific information on Flow sensor “high flow USB” (article no. 53129)? It's listed as AQ6 XT compatible. i didn't find any warnings.


----------



## Syberon

Yesterday i installed a new PowerAdjust 3 USB Ultra with heatsink and connected it to AQ6 LT. And all work fine but i found that the amplifier temperature of PA3 is 45C without any load on FAN header. When i connected a DDC 3.25 pump to PA3, amp temeperature rises to 50C. Is it normal so high temperature for PA3 even without any load? I got this question because i have connected 9 fans to AQ6 connectors and amp temperatures does not exceed 35C under full load.


----------



## Revan654

Syberon said:


> Yesterday i installed a new PowerAdjust 3 USB Ultra with heatsink and connected it to AQ6 LT. And all work fine but i found that the amplifier temperature of PA3 is 45C without any load on FAN header. When i connected a DDC 3.25 pump to PA3, amp temeperature rises to 50C. Is it normal so high temperature for PA3 even without any load? I got this question because i have connected 9 fans to AQ6 connectors and amp temperatures does not exceed 35C under full load.


- I would check the thermal pads on the PA3 and make sure there placed correctly & did not move when heatsink was placed. You could also try replacing them with another brand of thermalpads. 

These are the ones I use: http://www.thermal-grizzly.com/en/products/13-minus-pad-8-en

- Not sure on the temps (I can check mine without anything plugged into it later on if you want).


----------



## Syberon

Revan654 said:


> - I would check the thermal pads on the PA3 and make sure there placed correctly & did not move when heatsink was placed. You could also try replacing them with another brand of thermalpads.
> - Not sure on the temps (I can check mine without anything plugged into it later on if you want).


I used a termal pads from AQ6 heatsink. They work well on AQ6 and should work the same way on the PA3. I also initially assumed a bad contact of thermal pads and then disassembled heatsink from PA3 i saw that pads have good contacts with amps and heatsink. There are good dent on pads from amp.

I would be good if you can check temperatures without load and at load


----------



## Ashcroft

Aenra said:


> Since you mentioned it, am curious
> (may well be in the manual btw, so feel free to ignore this)
> 
> Assume usage of a splitty9 with 'x' number of PWM fans, total amperage below 2.5, splitter on Aquabus side and connected to AQ6's Aquabus header.
> That's one going right.
> 
> 1) Can i daisy-chain more than one splitty9 in the same AQ6 aquabus header? Exactly like the above scenario? And if so, what's my limit?
> 2) When connected through Aquabus, will the fans still be controllable from the device itself? No software, no curves, just.. controllable?
> 
> If you're wondering, am trying to convince myself i need only one AQ6, lol



One of us is confused here? You seem to be confusing or conflating Aquabus and fan control.

The Splitty9 is a simple device that can be used to connect multiple fans together on the same fan header, or because Aquabus is a 4 pin system like PWM, it can also be used to join multiple Aquabus devices together to the same Aquabus header.

Aquabus does not control fans. Fan headers control fans.
The Splitty can be connected to one of the Aquaero fan ports and multiple PWM fans can then be connected to the splitty and controlled together.

In Aquabus mode it can be connected to the Aquabus high port and multiple Aquabus devices like pumps and flow sensors can be connected to the splitty to all share the single Aquabus port.
It just turns one header into many. Fan headers or Aquabus headers it doesn't care because its just a simple PCB like a bunch of wiring.


----------



## Aenra

Ashcroft said:


> One of us is confused here? You seem to be confusing or conflating Aquabus and fan control


I don't think i am actually.
Plain English. Have Splitty9 on Aquabus splitter position. Connect it to Aquabus. Maintain 2,5Amps. Check. Thus far.
That's one Splitty9, going to one Aquabus connection header.
We also know we can daisy-chain multiple aquabus connection cables onto said same aquabus single header.

Ergo my questions, as per original post: 
- How many splitty9s can i have daisy-chained into said same single Aquabus header? If any?
- If in such a configuration, can the device drive the extra fans without the aid of software? Don't have it, so cannot know how it "reads" Aquabus, only guess.

In the off chance it's still not self-evident, the question pertains to total Amperage, hence my stating "limit" in my original post. Now are you sure it's me that got confused? 
(p.s. Forget Splitty9 on a PWN fan slot/splitter position. Not relevant to the question)


----------



## IT Diva

Aenra said:


> I don't think i am actually.
> Plain English. Have Splitty9 on Aquabus splitter position. Connect it to Aquabus. Maintain 2,5Amps. Check. Thus far.
> That's one Splitty9, going to one Aquabus connection header.
> We also know we can daisy-chain multiple aquabus connection cables onto said same aquabus single header.
> 
> Ergo my questions, as per original post:
> - How many splitty9s can i have daisy-chained into said same single Aquabus header? If any?
> - If in such a configuration, can the device drive the extra fans without the aid of software? Don't have it, so cannot know how it "reads" Aquabus, only guess.
> 
> In the off chance it's still not self-evident, the question pertains to total Amperage, hence my stating "limit" in my original post. Now are you sure it's me that got confused?
> (p.s. Forget Splitty9 on a PWN fan slot/splitter position. Not relevant to the question)


 


But it IS relevant . . . you can't drive fans from a Splitty when it's on an Aquabus header.


If you want to use a Splitty to drive fans, you need to connect it to a fan channel


It's a dual purpose device, but it Does Not do both simultaneously.


It doesn't make much sense to daisy chain splittys on an AQbus header, as you'll probably run out of AQbus devices before you use up 9 headers.




As to how much power:


If you have fans on a Splitty, and have all 4 wires connected to the fan channel, you're still limited to the 2.5A that the A6 can source.


If you break out the power wires and connect them to the PSU, so that only the PWM and tach wire go to the A6 fan channel, you can go much higher. at least to 5 A, as the limitation becomes the traces on the Splitty PCB.


----------



## Ashcroft

Aenra said:


> I don't think i am actually.
> Plain English. Have Splitty9 on Aquabus splitter position. Connect it to Aquabus. Maintain 2,5Amps. Check. Thus far.
> That's one Splitty9, going to one Aquabus connection header.
> We also know we can daisy-chain multiple aquabus connection cables onto said same aquabus single header.
> 
> Ergo my questions, as per original post:
> - How many splitty9s can i have daisy-chained into said same single Aquabus header? If any?
> - If in such a configuration, can the device drive the extra fans without the aid of software? Don't have it, so cannot know how it "reads" Aquabus, only guess.
> 
> In the off chance it's still not self-evident, the question pertains to total Amperage, hence my stating "limit" in my original post. Now are you sure it's me that got confused?
> (p.s. Forget Splitty9 on a PWN fan slot/splitter position. Not relevant to the question)



I thought I was going mad but no, you are just confused about how this stuff works and because of that its confusing to read and try to make sense of.

On the Aquabus header there is no limit to how many devices you could daisy chain. Its just the same as a bunch of wires and the only limitation is the signal quality of the Aquabus which is more related to distance than number, much like USB is.
There is no amperage because fans don't connect to aquabus. 

As IT Diva has said the Splitty does one or the other, PWM for fans/pumps, or Aquabus for Aquabus devices. It is not an Aquabus device like a poweradjust or flow meter. It is just a simple printed circuit board that takes the place of a bunch of wires 

like these pics


I only referred to the fan headers in an effort to explain how it does work with fans but it didn't connect apparently.


----------



## Revan654

Syberon said:


> I used a termal pads from AQ6 heatsink. They work well on AQ6 and should work the same way on the PA3. I also initially assumed a bad contact of thermal pads and then disassembled heatsink from PA3 i saw that pads have good contacts with amps and heatsink. There are good dent on pads from amp.
> 
> I would be good if you can check temperatures without load and at load


After running for about 10 mins without anything connected it temperature sits around 30C. At this time I can only attach two fans and the temperature sits around 33 to 34C.


----------



## Aenra

Thank you both @*IT Diva* and @*Ashcroft* for clarifying 

It's not of import, but to explain.. my issue was, well, is, that i need more than 4 channels as i don't want to 'sandwich' multiple rads per channel; would rather control each rad's fan set separately. When i first made mention of this here, someone replied with 'Aquabus', so i figured that may be an option worth exploring; hence the original question.

Sucks really, lol
340euro for fan controllers is a bit steep, if not downright illogical. But anyway, that's my problem, not yours. Thanks again for clarifying, i really appreciate it.

p.s. is the rep system down? Owe you both one ^^


----------



## IT Diva

Aenra said:


> Thank you both @*IT Diva* and @*Ashcroft* for clarifying
> 
> It's not of import, but to explain.. my issue was, well, is, that i need more than 4 channels as i don't want to 'sandwich' multiple rads per channel; would rather control each rad's fan set separately. When i first made mention of this here, someone replied with 'Aquabus', so i figured that may be an option worth exploring; hence the original question.
> 
> Sucks really, lol
> 340euro for fan controllers is a bit steep, if not downright illogical. But anyway, that's my problem, not yours. Thanks again for clarifying, i really appreciate it.
> 
> p.s. is the rep system down? Owe you both one ^^



To do as you want,


You'd make use of Aquabus and a 6LT in slave mode, Aquabus connected to the main AQ6,. that would give you 8 fan channels, any combination of which you could use as PWM or voltage controlled.


----------



## Aenra

IT Diva said:


> Aquabus and a 6LT in slave mode


Well i thought of that initially, but to do it i'd need a single solid 5.25 flex bay cover. I am _not_ making an order for just that. A second AQ6 Pro's actually cheaper 
(EU customs suck)


----------



## Aenra

Apologies for the double post, since the transition i keep getting doubles even though i only press once :S


----------



## BelowAverageIQ

Hi Team, Been a while since popping in here. I have xjust changed motherboards. New board is an Asrock Taichi Z370.

When I turn my system off, the Aquaero screen remains dimly illuminated and scrolling through the pages.

Not sure why this is happening. Any ideas?

Cheers


----------



## Willhemmens

BelowAverageIQ said:


> Hi Team, Been a while since popping in here. I have xjust changed motherboards. New board is an Asrock Taichi Z370.
> 
> When I turn my system off, the Aquaero screen remains dimly illuminated and scrolling through the pages.
> 
> Not sure why this is happening. Any ideas?
> 
> Cheers


Hey! From my experience that is what it's supposed to be doing. The Aquaero is powered via USB, so the reason it's staying on is because your motherboard is still supplying power when the computer is off (it seems your previous one didn't), the Aquaero can sense that there is no 12V signal so it knows the computer is off, so it goes to the standby mode. You can setup the brightness ect within Aquasuite.


----------



## BelowAverageIQ

Willhemmens said:


> Hey! From my experience that is what it's supposed to be doing. The Aquaero is powered via USB, so the reason it's staying on is because your motherboard is still supplying power when the computer is off (it seems your previous one didn't), the Aquaero can sense that there is no 12V signal so it knows the computer is off, so it goes to the standby mode. You can setup the brightness ect within Aquasuite.


Thank you VERY much kind sir!! Appreciate that. Great to know it is ok. New Taichi Z370 board just gets better and better. 

Cheers


----------



## Willhemmens

BelowAverageIQ said:


> Thank you VERY much kind sir!! Appreciate that. Great to know it is ok. New Taichi Z370 board just gets better and better.
> 
> Cheers


No worries. It's great tbh because it continues logging and doesn't have to power on every time you turn on your system, meaning fans/pumps start faster. Excellent bit of kit, love my 6 Pro.


----------



## GTXJackBauer

You could and should be able to completely shut off power to USB while the system is off in your MB's BIOS as I have done.


----------



## Andrew LB

Undermoose said:


> These warning do sink in and I do read manuals, for example the Splitty9 is 5A but the header is 2.5A (very important detail).
> 
> Do you have any specific information on Flow sensor “high flow USB” (article no. 53129)? It's listed as AQ6 XT compatible. i didn't find any warnings.


High flow USB sensor is connected to the motherboards internal USB for initial setup and then can be used with only an aquabus connection. Here is the high flow USB sensor. https://shop.aquacomputer.de/product_info.php?language=en&products_id=2897


----------



## memester999

Can I drive a DDC 3.25 off an Aquaero without Poweradjust?


----------



## Willhemmens

memester999 said:


> Can I drive a DDC 3.25 off an Aquaero without Poweradjust?


Can't speak for the Aquaero 5 but I'm currently running two, one per channel on mine just fine.

The 5 does 19.8W per channel and the 6 does 30W.


----------



## Shoggy

Willhemmens said:


> The 5 does 19.8W


But only with good cooling


----------



## Eusbwoa18

*My MPS 400 dissapeared*

So I finished building my new system. I have my Aquero 6 LT and an MPS 400 both connected to USB.

I installed the Aquasuite software which recognized both devices. I updated firmware on both.

I built a dashboard, played a bit. Everything was working great.

Continued to install software and run updates.

At some point the MPS 400 disappeared. The software can no longer see it. Everything else still works fine.

Has anyone else had a similar experience? Now that the software is up to date should I connect the MPS using the Aquabus cable?

Thanks in advance.

[UPDATE]

I unplugged the MPS and plugged it back into USB with the system running and it was redetected and is working.


----------



## B3L13V3R

Shoggy said:


> But only with good cooling


Indeed!!


----------



## jagdtigger

Its been a while i posted here...  So i have a quick question about poweradjust. Can it operate autonomously without an aquaero? Im planning on hiding away my networking gear(router, switch, nas, etc) into a cabinet and i want to use it to control the fans(it will be still in my room so alway full speed is a bad idea)...


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Andrew LB said:


> High flow USB sensor is connected to the motherboards internal USB for initial setup and then can be used with only an aquabus connection. Here is the high flow USB sensor. https://shop.aquacomputer.de/product_info.php?language=en&products_id=2897


Aquabus never works for me, I had to buy an internal USB 2 hub and run everything off of that.


----------



## jvillaveces

B NEGATIVE said:


> Aquabus never works for me, I had to buy an internal USB 2 hub and run everything off of that.


On my last rig aquabus worked sometimes, in the end I just gave up and used only USB. In my new build, I haven't been able to get it to work at all. None of the three MPS devices have been recognized in aquabus, not even once. They all have assigned appropriate aquabus addresses, and I must have done at least 40 or 50 shutoff/disconnect-wait-connect-turn on cycles. There's nothing wrong with USB, but I would have liked the Aquaero to see my devices through aquabus because it does make programming the aquasuite page easier.


----------



## alanthecelt

jagdtigger said:


> Its been a while i posted here...  So i have a quick question about poweradjust. Can it operate autonomously without an aquaero? Im planning on hiding away my networking gear(router, switch, nas, etc) into a cabinet and i want to use it to control the fans(it will be still in my room so alway full speed is a bad idea)...


yup, i chucked a poweradjust 2 in my daughters build to control fans based on coolant temp


----------



## fgiannone

Hello everybody,

probably a stupid question to ask: I'm planning to use an aquaero 5 in my custom loop system. Do you connect in any way the main board to the aquacomputer board (not considering USB); let me explain better, what about CPU fan connector on mother board? Do you leave it unconnected? Are you using only temperature sensors connected directly aquaero?

Thank you,
Fabrizio


----------



## Eusbwoa18

In addition to the USB, I have fan speed connected to both my 6LT and my MPS. Other than that just temp sensors connected directly to the 6LT.


----------



## Ashcroft

fgiannone said:


> Hello everybody,
> 
> probably a stupid question to ask: I'm planning to use an aquaero 5 in my custom loop system. Do you connect in any way the main board to the aquacomputer board (not considering USB); let me explain better, what about CPU fan connector on mother board? Do you leave it unconnected? Are you using only temperature sensors connected directly aquaero?
> 
> Thank you,
> Fabrizio


Other than USB, no, the Aquaero does not take anything from the MB besides programming from the Aquasuite software via USB and sensor readings from the MB via USB if you choose to use that feature for CPU, GPU, HDD temps etc
The primary benefit of the Aquaero is that it is a standalone device that functions independently of the main PC. The PC can be crashing and the cooling system is still running. 
Hardware sensors connected directly to the Aquaero are the most reliable and useful. They give you coolant and air temps etc.


----------



## NE0XY

Hi,

I just upgraded my system, new mobo, cpu gpu and so on. I also changed out 3 case fans for the Corsair LL RGB ones (don't judge) and for some reason I can't control them through my Aquaero 6XT.
I connected the 3 cables to a PWM splitter https://www.amazon.com/Swiftech-8W-PWM-SPL-ST-Way-PWM-Splitter-Sata/dp/B00IF6R4C8 and from there into the Aquaero. The fans are spinning but not controllable. Am I missing something? Like something to do with the splitter perhaps? 

Thank you

EDIT: Solved it... one of the pins on the PWM extender cable was a bit off
EDIT2: 
I can't still properly control them. If I try to set them to 0% speed they instead go to max. Is there something funky with my settings then? 
http://www.overclock.net/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=74265&thumb=1


----------



## war4peace

Setting them to zero means no PWM and fans react to lack of PWM signal by setting themselves to maximum speed.
Those fans will turn off only if you voltage-control them.


----------



## NE0XY

war4peace said:


> Setting them to zero means no PWM and fans react to lack of PWM signal by setting themselves to maximum speed.
> Those fans will turn off only if you voltage-control them.


Okay I see, good thing they're quiet then 
Thanks


----------



## Legnumvr4

Hi, 

Standard pads have been mistakenly damaged. I need to re-mount the heat sink on my aquaero. Do I have to buy new thermalpads or I can use thermalpaste from Grizzly? 



If I must buy thermalpad, what thickness and companies can it be? I think about Gelid GP-Extreme Thermalpad 120x20x0.5mm TP-GP02-A. Its good?


----------



## Revan654

Legnumvr4 said:


> Hi,
> 
> Standard pads have been mistakenly damaged. I need to re-mount the heat sink on my aquaero. Do I have to buy new thermalpads or I can use thermalpaste from Grizzly?
> 
> 
> If I must buy thermalpad, what thickness and companies can it be? I think about Gelid GP-Extreme Thermalpad 120x20x0.5mm TP-GP02-A. Its good?


You need thermal pads, There 0.5mm, I used Grizzly Pad-8 and they gave a very good results(Better then stock pads). 

Link: http://www.thermal-grizzly.com/en/products/13-minus-pad-8-en

Manual Just in-case: http://aquacomputer.de/handbuecher....nuals/aquaero_6_Heatsink_english_20140106.pdf


----------



## Legnumvr4

Thank you for your help, I ordered minus pad 8 0,5mm 


Regards


----------



## Eusbwoa18

So I have my 6LT updated and running. 

It controls all of my system fans, both my pumps. 

I'm monitoring air temp in on my radiators, air temp out on the radiators, water temperature, water flow. I'm really impressed so far. The software has worked great. What other cool things can I do with it? Any suggestions?


----------



## war4peace

Yes.
Go to Aquaero / Sensors / Power Measurements and add Flow, temp Sensor for liquid temperature before it enters the radiator(s) and a secondary temp sensor which measures liquid temperature after exiting the radiator(s), thus obtaining total Heat Dissipation for your radiator(s).
This is how I was able to find out that my MoRa 420 can dissipate over 1 KW of heat easily with fans at 550 rpm.


----------



## GTXJackBauer

war4peace said:


> Yes.
> Go to Aquaero / Sensors / Power Measurements and add Flow, temp Sensor for liquid temperature before it enters the radiator(s) and a secondary temp sensor which measures liquid temperature after exiting the radiator(s), thus obtaining total Heat Dissipation for your radiator(s).
> This is how I was able to find out that my MoRa 420 can dissipate over 1 KW of heat easily with fans at 550 rpm.



I've had mine set for some time now but I seem to get really low numbers. I'm usually hovering around 100 and now around half that. Was wondering maybe if I was doing something wrong or if there was a formula that needs to be used to get the total amount.


----------



## Juris

Quick question re the Aqua Computer D5 with Aquabus (model 41093). Has this been discontinued and if so does anyone know if a new model is going to be replacing it. I was looking to grab one to replace my faulty VPP755 and use it with my Aquaero 6XT but its removed from AC's online shop and out of stock with a lot of online etailers.


----------



## Eusbwoa18

*Thank you*



war4peace said:


> Yes.
> Go to Aquaero / Sensors / Power Measurements and add Flow, temp Sensor for liquid temperature before it enters the radiator(s) and a secondary temp sensor which measures liquid temperature after exiting the radiator(s), thus obtaining total Heat Dissipation for your radiator(s).
> This is how I was able to find out that my MoRa 420 can dissipate over 1 KW of heat easily with fans at 550 rpm.


Good suggestion.

Thanks!


----------



## Revan654

Juris said:


> Quick question re the Aqua Computer D5 with Aquabus (model 41093). Has this been discontinued and if so does anyone know if a new model is going to be replacing it. I was looking to grab one to replace my faulty VPP755 and use it with my Aquaero 6XT but its removed from AC's online shop and out of stock with a lot of online etailers.


It's EOL. Aqua-Computer should be announcing some new products soon. Since the last firmware update did set the framework for there new products.

PPCS still has stock if you want one

Link: http://www.performance-pcs.com/aquacomputer-d5-pump-mechanics-with-usb-and-aquabus-interface.html

--------

Until AQ announces the new products no word if there will be a new pump or not. If I had to guess I would say it's likely to see a new pump at some point.


----------



## SimonOcean

Revan654 said:


> It's EOL. Aqua-Computer should be announcing some new products soon.


Interesting... I have an Aquaero 5LT and was about to buy a 6 XT for a new build... I think I will hold off a bit and see what new designs they can come up with.


----------



## Revan654

SimonOcean said:


> Interesting... I have an Aquaero 5LT and was about to buy a 6 XT for a new build... I think I will hold off a bit and see what new designs they can come up with.


Not sure if there going to be releasing a new AQ. I could see a slightly modified version, not sure we will see a brand new version yet.


----------



## Juris

Revan654 said:


> It's EOL. Aqua-Computer should be announcing some new products soon. Since the last firmware update did set the framework for there new products.
> 
> PPCS still has stock if you want one
> 
> Link: http://www.performance-pcs.com/aquacomputer-d5-pump-mechanics-with-usb-and-aquabus-interface.html
> 
> --------
> 
> Until AQ announces the new products no word if there will be a new pump or not. If I had to guess I would say it's likely to see a new pump at some point.


Thanks Revan. Wondering whether to buy now or wait. The eternal question in pc building. My brain is pondering whether they are working with Alphacool as the companies seem linked to resolve the issues with the VPP755 to create a pump with its positive attributes and an Aquabus interface. The pump to end all pumps. Total conjecture but we can dream.


----------



## Syberon

Revan654 said:


> After running for about 10 mins without anything connected it temperature sits around 30C. At this time I can only attach two fans and the temperature sits around 33 to 34C.


Hi. Sorry for a long time to reply - new buggy forum baned me without reasons.
I wrote to Aquacomputer support about this issue and they tell me that i have a new revision of PowerAdjust 3 and it have a thermal sensor in different spot of PCB and this temperatures are normal 



pgdeaner said:


> I unplugged the MPS and plugged it back into USB with the system running and it was redetected and is working.


I have the same behavior - i have an AQ6, PowerAdjust 3, MPS Flow 400, MPS Delta 40 connected by Aquabus and USB simultaneously. After reboot or cold start the system randomly loses USB connection with one (or two, sometimes) devices. It loses connection with MPS and Poweradjust devices and never loses the main AQ6. To get it works again i have to unplug/plug the USB connector to mobo, or sometimes helps to Shutdown system and power off the PSU. I think this is not normal behavior.


----------



## Revan654

Juris said:


> Thanks Revan. Wondering whether to buy now or wait. The eternal question in pc building. My brain is pondering whether they are working with Alphacool as the companies seem linked to resolve the issues with the VPP755 to create a pump with its positive attributes and an Aquabus interface. The pump to end all pumps. Total conjecture but we can dream.


I would think they would make there own instead of joint operation to try to fix all the problems it had since release. There no timetable when all this will be announced, It could still be months.

If you need a pump now you can't go wrong with the aquabus pump.


----------



## crappy

When installing the waterblock onto the heatsink for the aquaero 6, what sort of TIM set up is best? I was just going to use just some thermal paste on the raised bits of the block that would make contact with the heatsink, but what about putting some 1.5mm thermal pad in the channeled bit around where the screws go?

Also, what do you think to using paste rather than the pads provided on the heatsink?


----------



## IT Diva

crappy said:


> When installing the waterblock onto the heatsink for the aquaero 6, what sort of TIM set up is best? I was just going to use just some thermal paste on the raised bits of the block that would make contact with the heatsink, but what about putting some 1.5mm thermal pad in the channeled bit around where the screws go?
> 
> Also, what do you think to using paste rather than the pads provided on the heatsink?






Using the water block on an A6 is a waste of time and adds needless complexity and clutter to your loop.


If you really feel the need to use more than the basic optional add on, use the finned passive heatsink.




The A6 design is just so far ahead of the previous 5 series with regards to thermal issues, unless you need to run all channels at near max load, it does just fine, right out of the box.


----------



## Trike

I know this has been discussed before, But I have 16 120mm Silent Wings 3 PWM fans for my radiators in push/pull. I'm using an AQ6 to control them (4 fans per output) and am experiencing the PWM issue where there's hardly any speed control until the 90-100% range. I've seen several mentions of using a "Diva Adapter" to fix the internal pull up issue and I have seen the post in this thread with the pics of the D5 pump mod. 

But I'm uncertain how to figure out the correct resistor values to drive 4 of them correctly. Anyone have any suggestions on starting values to try? 

Thanks!


----------



## crappy

IT Diva said:


> Using the water block on an A6 is a waste of time and adds needless complexity and clutter to your loop.
> 
> 
> If you really feel the need to use more than the basic optional add on, use the finned passive heatsink.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The A6 design is just so far ahead of the previous 5 series with regards to thermal issues, unless you need to run all channels at near max load, it does just fine, right out of the box.


It's more for aesthetics and because why not than for any need due to load.





I'll just whack a bit of paste on then.


----------



## Trike

I ended up trying a 1k resistor to power 4 SW3 fans from a single channel on the aquaero 6 and it appears to be working great! I appear to have pretty good control now. They start to power up at 20% @~170-200rpm and scales up smoothly to 100%@~1350rpm. I have added the Diva adapter to all 4 channels and controlling 16 fans without a problem now. Thanks for sharing the simple solution IT Diva!


----------



## Benedict_Canyon_Computers

I'm setting up my first Aquaero 6xt. I have 7 Corsair ML140 pro fans, 4 ML120 pros, and 2 Primochill D5 12v PWM pumps. I have 4 ML140s on the first fan channel, 3 ML140s on the second channel, 4 ML120s on the third channel, and both pumps on the fourth channel. 

Is there anything wrong with that layout?

Thanks


----------



## GTXJackBauer

Not sure if the pumps will work. All depends if they are of Intel PWM spec.


----------



## Juris

Not sure if this is the right place to check this but as it was to be used with my Aquaero 6XT and it'd be most popular with Aquaero owners thought I'd ask. Just got my Aquacomputer D5 with Aquabus pump from Overclockers and it squeaks when turned manually. Is this normal or is my bad luck with pumps continuing? Cheers.


----------



## NE0XY

Hi,

I'm wondering how to set up the software sensors? I downloaded HWinfo64 (which I read somewhere was needed) but I still can't seem to figure it out. HWinfo64 doesn't pop-up in the data sources


----------



## Biggu

Juris said:


> Not sure if this is the right place to check this but as it was to be used with my Aquaero 6XT and it'd be most popular with Aquaero owners thought I'd ask. Just got my Aquacomputer D5 with Aquabus pump from Overclockers and it squeaks when turned manually. Is this normal or is my bad luck with pumps continuing? Cheers.
> 
> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YMUZqfxrxio


IIRC thats normal, goes away once coolant/ water is on it.


----------



## Revan654

NE0XY said:


> Hi,
> 
> I'm wondering how to set up the software sensors? I downloaded HWinfo64 (which I read somewhere was needed) but I still can't seem to figure it out. HWinfo64 doesn't pop-up in the data sources


HWInfo is built into the software now, as long as you have one of the latest version is there.


----------



## war4peace

Try running HWinfo64 as administrator and wait for about 30 seconds before checking whether it appears as source.
It won't appear as source if you are running it without user elevation.


----------



## Revan654

Juris said:


> Not sure if this is the right place to check this but as it was to be used with my Aquaero 6XT and it'd be most popular with Aquaero owners thought I'd ask. Just got my Aquacomputer D5 with Aquabus pump from Overclockers and it squeaks when turned manually. Is this normal or is my bad luck with pumps continuing? Cheers.
> 
> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YMUZqfxrxio


There is a reason you don't run the pumps dry. That sound is normal since no liquid is passing through the pump to stop it from grinding.


----------



## NE0XY

Revan654 said:


> HWInfo is built into the software now, as long as you have one of the latest version is there.


Hmm, how do I enable it then? I can't seem to find an option.


----------



## Revan654

NE0XY said:


> Hmm, how do I enable it then? I can't seem to find an option.


AquaSuite 2017:

- Aqua Computer Hardware Monitor: Integrated hardware monitor, no third-party software required.

There nothing that needs enabling, it's there by default. I don't have AQ6 plugged in currently so I can't double check right now.You have to add a source to the software temperature and menu should appear.

It should look something like this:


----------



## NE0XY

Revan654 said:


> AquaSuite 2017:
> 
> - Aqua Computer Hardware Monitor: Integrated hardware monitor, no third-party software required.
> 
> There nothing that needs enabling, it's there by default. I don't have AQ6 plugged in currently so I can't double check right now.You have to add a source to the software temperature and menu should appear.
> 
> It should look something like this:
> 
> 
> Spoiler



Yeah I couldn't find any other sources than the aquaero there.
I found the issue, the "Background Services" had stopped... reinstalled and restarted and now it works... 
Thanks for the help =)


----------



## Juris

Thanks Biggu and Revan. D5 installed with distilled and purring away perfectly. Cheers.


----------



## Benedict_Canyon_Computers

What are the default fan and pump curves on a 6XT when you first boot up your system?


----------



## Shoggy

Benedict_Canyon_Computers said:


> What are the default fan and pump curves on a 6XT when you first boot up your system?


Everything runs at 100% by default to make sure that you can fill your system if a pump is connected to the aquaero and that nothing can overheat.


----------



## tomsonx1983

Shoggy its is any chance to revert back psu cut-off to previous state in firmware ?
And other question, my lcd have some vertical lines, how warranty looks like, it was bought almost 2 years ago from oc.uk so now direct warranty after 12 months
Do i need to send whole unit to Germany ?


----------



## Aenra

Dumb question probably, but i'm having some space issues and the only way i can mount (without my OCD triggering) the "Flow sensor high flow G1/4 for aquaero" is upside down, as in literally. Think screw mounts on top and header below, pointing towards the bottom of the chassis. Will i be having any issues mounting it thus?
I remember someone said -could i ever be more accurate?- that for example vertically is a bad idea, due to that clanking noise that becomes more pronounced if mounted so. So how about upside down? 

(not being lazy, just don't want to drill to find out)

* Edit: Since i'm at it.. am getting the impression this "clanking noise" is more due to air not having left the loop than any actual deficiency; am i wrong in this? 'Cause i was thinking about it and it makes sense, except i haven't seen mention of it.


----------



## Shoggy

tomsonx1983 said:


> Shoggy its is any chance to revert back psu cut-off to previous state in firmware ?
> And other question, my lcd have some vertical lines, how warranty looks like, it was bought almost 2 years ago from oc.uk so now direct warranty after 12 months
> Do i need to send whole unit to Germany ?


No, we will not revive that old behavior. Since we changed to the current method (long time ago) we had almost no more questions from customers about that function while with the old method we always got complaints that it was not working for them in the way they expected it wot work. Some of the more freakish customers even got loud and angry on the phone blaming us the aquaero have destroyed their PC (because they were not able to turn it on anymore after an emergency shutdown) until they realized that only a wrong configuration of the relay was causing that problem.

Vertical lines in the display are usually the result of an overvoltage issue on the 5V supply of the display. I want to point out that the 5V is directly taken from the PSU (or via USB if in standby mode) and not converted by the aquaero. You can send in the aquaero for a check but it will be very unlikely that the problem will be coverd by the warranty. A new display will be required anyway.



Aenra said:


> Dumb question probably, but i'm having some space issues and the only way i can mount (without my OCD triggering) the "Flow sensor high flow G1/4 for aquaero" is upside down, as in literally. Think screw mounts on top and header below, pointing towards the bottom of the chassis. Will i be having any issues mounting it thus?
> I remember someone said -could i ever be more accurate?- that for example vertically is a bad idea, due to that clanking noise that becomes more pronounced if mounted so. So how about upside down?
> 
> (not being lazy, just don't want to drill to find out)
> 
> * Edit: Since i'm at it.. am getting the impression this "clanking noise" is more due to air not having left the loop than any actual deficiency; am i wrong in this? 'Cause i was thinking about it and it makes sense, except i haven't seen mention of it.


The manufacturer of the sensor unit recommends to use it horizontally with the pins pointing upwards because this way the impeller can rotate on the spiky axis as intended. Using the sensor sidewards will also work but increases the risk that the impeller might move back and forth causing a ticking noise - especially at higher flow rates. Using the sensor upside down would mean that the impeller no longer rotates on the axis but with the two magnetic inserts in the lid. It will spin for sure but I can imagine that it will decrease the accuracy. You can see some photos of the inside here to get a better idea of what I mean.


----------



## Aenra

Thank you as always Shoggy 

And interesting to know, about the 5V supply. To the user with the display issue, what PSU are you using? Or, if connected through USB, what motherboard are you using please?


----------



## zerophase

Shoggy, what is the best means of detecting a leak through the Aquaero and shutting the system down?

After running my system for a year I noticed a very small leak when I tipped the case over to switch out the cpu. Maybe, 20 drops leaked out over the course of a few hours. Definitely a small leak, and unlikely to happen again for awhile. I would just prefer to have a failsafe in case I don't catch a leak in time.


----------



## tomsonx1983

Aenra said:


> Thank you as always Shoggy
> 
> And interesting to know, about the 5V supply. To the user with the display issue, what PSU are you using? Or, if connected through USB, what motherboard are you using please?


Im using Ax1200i and rampage v edition 10, usb cable is connected
5v line measurement with my fluke multimeter fluctuating from 4.96 to 4.99 depending on load so its ok

My screen dont have burned out lines, its more like ghosting lines
For example any bar meters got some lighter or darker lines where some letters, characters are above or below it
So its just not equal same color all way long i will try to catch it on photo and upload it


----------



## jvillaveces

I'm having the strangest problem, hopefully someone here can help. My AQ6 Pro had been running for over two years without incident, except for its refusal to recognize aquabus devices. A couple of months ago it simply wouldn't turn on. Dark screen, red x on Aquasuite. I just assumed it had died, and purchased a new unit.
Today I installed the new unit, connected everything, and all worked out great (aquabus cable left off). I restored the backup I had of my settings, loaded my profile, and everything worked perfectly. I had to rename a couple of temp sensors but other than that, zero issues. I shut down and disconnected the pc to connect aquabus, and when I powered it back up, it was the same as the old unit: black screen, unrecognized by aquasuite, not seen in device manager. 
I powered off and disconnected again, and changed the molex connector to one from another cable. Same results, i.e. dead AQ. Then I tested both molex connectors with the multimeter, and they both showed correct voltages. I reconnected one, powered on, and tested at the solder points behind the molex input on the AQ6, and saw correct voltages. Repeated for the other cable, again saw correct voltages on the AQ6 PCB.
So, something is happening in my PC that bricks aquaeros or locks them up somehow. I have no clue what it can be. Any suggestions?
Also, I remember there's a way to reset the aquaero, and I would like to try this so I can see if the old unit is still alive, but I don't remember how, and the thread search function in OCN is not working. Any instructions on this would be much appreciated!
My rig:
Asus Z97-Deluxe mobo
Intel i7 4790k
16GB Corsair DomPlat 2133
Corsair AX1200i PSU
2 x 980GTI


----------



## Barefooter

jvillaveces said:


> I'm having the strangest problem, hopefully someone here can help. My AQ6 Pro had been running for over two years without incident, except for its refusal to recognize aquabus devices. A couple of months ago it simply wouldn't turn on. Dark screen, red x on Aquasuite. I just assumed it had died, and purchased a new unit.
> Today I installed the new unit, connected everything, and all worked out great (aquabus cable left off). I restored the backup I had of my settings, loaded my profile, and everything worked perfectly. I had to rename a couple of temp sensors but other than that, zero issues. I shut down and disconnected the pc to connect aquabus, and when I powered it back up, it was the same as the old unit: black screen, unrecognized by aquasuite, not seen in device manager.
> I powered off and disconnected again, and changed the molex connector to one from another cable. Same results, i.e. dead AQ. Then I tested both molex connectors with the multimeter, and they both showed correct voltages. I reconnected one, powered on, and tested at the solder points behind the molex input on the AQ6, and saw correct voltages. Repeated for the other cable, again saw correct voltages on the AQ6 PCB.
> So, something is happening in my PC that bricks aquaeros or locks them up somehow. I have no clue what it can be. Any suggestions?
> Also, I remember there's a way to reset the aquaero, and I would like to try this so I can see if the old unit is still alive, but I don't remember how, and the thread search function in OCN is not working. Any instructions on this would be much appreciated!
> My rig:
> Asus Z97-Deluxe mobo
> Intel i7 4790k
> 16GB Corsair DomPlat 2133
> Corsair AX1200i PSU
> 2 x 980GTI


Here's how to do the factory reset:
1. Turn the computer off and turn the power supply off with the switch on the back of it, or unplug the power supply from the wall. This removes all power from the USB cables.

2. Disconnect all the wiring from the Aquaero except for the molex power.

3. Place the four jumpers on temp sensors 5, 6, 7, and 8.

4. Turn the power back on, you will hear a loud beep noise, leave it powered on for a few minutes.

5. Power down the power supply again.

6. Remove the jumpers from the temp sensor pins.

I detailed it in this post on my build log.

.


----------



## Amphetamine

I installed my 1st custom loop recently and decided to go with a 5LT for control. It's an awesome bit of kit  I do kinda wish that I'd spent the extra and gone for the 6LT instead so I could run the PWM pump and fans independantly of each other... I might spring for a 6 at some point in the future but for now the 5LT is working fine.

Can you add me to the owners list please


----------



## jvillaveces

Barefooter said:


> Here's how to do the factory reset:
> 1. Turn the computer off and turn the power supply off with the switch on the back of it, or unplug the power supply from the wall. This removes all power from the USB cables.
> 
> 2. Disconnect all the wiring from the Aquaero except for the molex power.
> 
> 3. Place the four jumpers on temp sensors 5, 6, 7, and 8.
> 
> 4. Turn the power back on, you will hear a loud beep noise, leave it powered on for a few minutes.
> 
> 5. Power down the power supply again.
> 
> 6. Remove the jumpers from the temp sensor pins.
> 
> I detailed it in this post on my build log.



Thank you! +rep
What do you use to jumper the temp sensor ports?


----------



## Barefooter

jvillaveces said:


> Thank you! +rep
> What do you use to jumper the temp sensor ports?


I did not have any jumpers, but had a bunch of extra temp sensors laying around, so I just cut them short, twisted the wires together and put a piece of heat shrink over the end. There's a picture of what I did on the post I linked.


----------



## jvillaveces

Barefooter said:


> I did not have any jumpers, but had a bunch of extra temp sensors laying around, so I just cut them short, twisted the wires together and put a piece of heat shrink over the end. There's a picture of what I did on the post I linked.


Sounds easy enough. I won't butcher any temp sensors, but I have a lot of connectors and pins I can put to good use! As to the announced rep, it's down again, so it'll go on my list until it comes back


----------



## Shoggy

zerophase said:


> Shoggy, what is the best means of detecting a leak through the Aquaero and shutting the system down?


We offer no sensors for this purpose.



tomsonx1983 said:


> 5v line measurement with my fluke multimeter fluctuating from 4.96 to 4.99 depending on load so its ok


If we assume the PSU was the root of the problem, then you won't be able to determine this with a multimeter. A short burst can have caused this problem. This could have been a one time thing and even if it happens more times you could only detect that with much more advanced monitoring equipment like an oscilloscope.



jvillaveces said:


> I shut down and disconnected the pc *to connect aquabus*, and when I powered it back up, it was the same as the old unit: black screen, unrecognized by aquasuite, not seen in device manager.
> I powered off and disconnected again, and changed the molex connector to one from another cable. Same results, *i.e. dead AQ*.


If I get this right you only have this problem when an aquabus device is connected? If so you can be quite sure there is something wrong with this connection or the attached device. The aquaero will cut the power for some event like a short circuit to prevent further damages.



jvillaveces said:


> What do you use to jumper the temp sensor ports?


You can also crumple for pieces of aluminum foil and attached them to the pins.


----------



## PuffinMyLye

I picked up an Aquaero 6 XT for my new build. I have 12 Noiseblocker eLoops (4 fans per splitter, 3 splitters going to the 6 XT) and 2 Laing D5 Strong pumps I want to attach to it.

Are there any known issues I should be aware of? I was informed of the issue with the PWM SW3's which is the reason I switched to the eLoops.


----------



## tomsonx1983

@Shoggy
I noticed that lines start to appear when i power up pc, so when aquaero got power from both molex and usb 
Hmm it was always like that from begin when i bought it, i just seen on photos that not everyone have that kind of lines or may by just camera dont catch it ?

Ok somehow my contrast was lowered 
After adjusting back its ok


----------



## jvillaveces

Shoggy said:


> If I get this right you only have this problem when an aquabus device is connected? If so you can be quite sure there is something wrong with this connection or the attached device. The aquaero will cut the power for some event like a short circuit to prevent further damages.
> 
> 
> You can also crumple for pieces of aluminum foil and attached them to the pins.


So the pertinent troubleshooting procedure would be:

1) disconnect aquabus
2) reset aq6
3) try again

Correct?

As to MPS devices, I have two D5 pumps and a USB High Flow meter. They all show correctly in aquasuite. Can I assume they are ok, or is there something I should check?


----------



## zerophase

Shoggy said:


> zerophase said:
> 
> 
> 
> Shoggy, what is the best means of detecting a leak through the Aquaero and shutting the system down?
> 
> 
> 
> We offer no sensors for this purpose.
Click to expand...

A fill level sensor, like so, would not work?


----------



## jvillaveces

Shoggy said:


> We offer no sensors for this purpose.
> 
> 
> If we assume the PSU was the root of the problem, then you won't be able to determine this with a multimeter. A short burst can have caused this problem. This could have been a one time thing and even if it happens more times you could only detect that with much more advanced monitoring equipment like an oscilloscope.
> 
> 
> If I get this right you only have this problem when an aquabus device is connected? If so you can be quite sure there is something wrong with this connection or the attached device. The aquaero will cut the power for some event like a short circuit to prevent further damages.
> 
> 
> You can also crumple for pieces of aluminum foil and attached them to the pins.





jvillaveces said:


> So the pertinent troubleshooting procedure would be:
> 
> 1) disconnect aquabus
> 2) reset aq6
> 3) try again
> 
> Correct?
> 
> As to MPS devices, I have two D5 pumps and a USB High Flow meter. They all show correctly in aquasuite. Can I assume they are ok, or is there something I should check?


I tried without the aquabus connection and it started right up. Thanks, Shoggy, you were right! Now how can I figure out what's wrong with the aquabus network?


----------



## Shoggy

zerophase said:


> A fill level sensor, like so, would not work?


No, this sensor is not able to tell you if there is a leak unless it is a serious leak were your hardware will be the loser anyway 



jvillaveces said:


> I tried without the aquabus connection and it started right up. Thanks, Shoggy, you were right! Now how can I figure out what's wrong with the aquabus network?


You should test each device alone via aquabus and maybe also change the connection cable to find out which device or maybe cable is causing the problem.


----------



## zerophase

Shoggy said:


> zerophase said:
> 
> 
> 
> A fill level sensor, like so, would not work?
> 
> 
> 
> No, this sensor is not able to tell you if there is a leak unless it is a serious leak were your hardware will be the loser anyway /forum/images/smilies/wink.gif
Click to expand...

Thanks. Just trying to find an excuse for connecting the emergency shutdown 24 pin.


----------



## tomsonx1983

So it came back again, regardles from contrast setting in aq suite
Cleaning all conectors beetwen lcd panel and aquaero pcb did the job for now


----------



## Revan654

If anyone could help it would be helpful for last stage of my build.

1. When using the RGB header on the AQ6XT, do any resistors need to be installed? I believe I've read the device has installed resistors built into the AQ6XT. The max voltage is 12V on the device.
2. This is a question more geared toward AQ or if anyone recall the answer. Is there any reason why AQ6XT uses Common Cathode but farbwerk uses Common Anode?
3. Is it possible in any way to open up the VISION Touch table top unit, matte nickel plating? Only reason I'm asking is I want to sleeve the cable without trying to fit it over the USB 2.0 connector.


----------



## wheatpaste1999

As I take it, the LED headers on the Aquaero are more intended for individual RGB LEDs rather than strips, and yes separate resistors aren't required. 

I would guess that the farbwerk is more intended to be used with 5050 RGB LED strips. The farbwerk also gives you more channels, additional temp sensor inputs, bluetooth/app control, etc.


----------



## Revan654

wheatpaste1999 said:


> As I take it, the LED headers on the Aquaero are more intended for individual RGB LEDs rather than strips, and yes separate resistors aren't required.
> 
> I would guess that the farbwerk is more intended to be used with 5050 RGB LED strips. The farbwerk also gives you more channels, additional temp sensor inputs, bluetooth/app control, etc.


Just strange they use two different polarity. The 5mm diode do come in both Anode and Cathode.


----------



## Shoggy

Revan654 said:


> 1. When using the RGB header on the AQ6XT, do any resistors need to be installed? I believe I've read the device has installed resistors built into the AQ6XT. The max voltage is 12V on the device.
> 2. This is a question more geared toward AQ or if anyone recall the answer. Is there any reason why AQ6XT uses Common Cathode but farbwerk uses Common Anode?
> 3. Is it possible in any way to open up the VISION Touch table top unit, matte nickel plating? Only reason I'm asking is I want to sleeve the cable without trying to fit it over the USB 2.0 connector.


1.) The RGB port is designed to be usee for *one *RGB LED (without further resistors). You can not connect any strips to it etc.

2.) A common anode is the standard thing among RGB LED strips. That the aquaero uses a common cathode goes back till the aquaero 3.07 from 2003. Who should have known that many years later a thing called RGB LED strips will be a thing  In the end it does not really matter because as said you can not connect strips to the aquaero anyway.

3.) On the back you have a little hole near the top. Take a paper clip for example and stick it into the hole so that the front will pop out. On the base you have a little clamp that is fixed with a screw. Remove this one to get access to the cable.


----------



## Mayco

Is here any possibility to run USB LCD under Windows 10 Pro x64 (build 1709)? Driver (v2.0) supplied with Aquasuite 2017-3.2 does not appear in the Controllers list in the LCD-Hype window, V1.2 found on internet appears in the list, but doesn't work. V2.0 on Windows 8.1 x86 works.


----------



## Shoggy

I have forwarded that to our programmer to have a look.


----------



## Spin Cykle

Question for everyone......

What are the short term peak loads for start up on the fan channels for the Aquaero 6LT with the heatsink installed?

The Aquaero 6LT specs are listed as:

2.5A - 30w per channel 

I have a Splitty9 and I want to run 8 Gentle Typhoon AP-15 (1850rpm). 

The Splitty9 specs are: 

5.0A - 40w Max

And the Gentle Typhoon AP-15 (1850rpm) Specs are:

0.36A/4.32W @ start up 

0.083A/.996W max after startup

So.... 2.5A/0.36A = 6.9 or 6 Fans per channel. 

Quick math would tell us that at start up “power” , I could only have 6 fans on a Splitty9 connected to 1 fan port on the Aquaro6 LT, unless there are higher short term peak loads allowed for start up on each fan channel?


----------



## Barefooter

Spin Cykle said:


> Question for everyone......
> 
> What are the short term peak loads for start up on the fan channels for the Aquaero 6LT with the heatsink installed?
> 
> The Aquaero 6LT specs are listed as:
> 
> 2.5A - 30w per channel
> 
> I have a Splitty9 and I want to run 8 Gentle Typhoon AP-15 (1850rpm).
> 
> The Splitty9 specs are:
> 
> 5.0A - 40w Max
> 
> And the Gentle Typhoon AP-15 (1850rpm) Specs are:
> 
> 0.36A/4.32W @ start up
> 
> 0.083A/.996W max after startup
> 
> So.... 2.5A/0.36A = 6.9 or 6 Fans per channel.
> 
> Quick math would tell us that at start up “power” , I could only have 6 fans on a Splitty9 connected to 1 fan port on the Aquaro6 LT, unless there are higher short term peak loads allowed for start up on each fan channel?


I'm pretty sure you are going to trip the over current protections with eight fans on one channel. Six probably will be ok. I did some fan testing on my built log with EK Vardar F3-140ER fans and eight of those fans would trip it, and they are rated at 3.86 watts each. Otherwise you can power the fans from the power supply and send the RPM signal and PWM wires to the Aquaero. That's what I ended up doing.


----------



## Spin Cykle

Barefooter said:


> I'm pretty sure you are going to trip the over current protections with eight fans on one channel. Six probably will be ok. I did some fan testing on my built log with EK Vardar F3-140ER fans and eight of those fans would trip it, and they are rated at 3.86 watts each. Otherwise you can power the fans from the power supply and send the RPM signal and PWM wires to the Aquaero. That's what I ended up doing.




Thank you! I never though my about powering the Splitty9 directly from my PSU. Can this be done with non-PWM fans. Will I loose an functionality in aqua suite or with the Aquero? 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro


----------



## Barefooter

Spin Cykle said:


> Thank you! I never though my about powering the Splitty9 directly from my PSU. Can this be done with non-PWM fans. Will I loose an functionality in aqua suite or with the Aquero?
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro


Sorry all I ever use is PWM fans, for non-PWM fans you'll have to power from the Aquaero, so you'll have to split the fans into multiple channels.


----------



## jura11

Spin Cykle said:


> Thank you! I never though my about powering the Splitty9 directly from my PSU. Can this be done with non-PWM fans. Will I loose an functionality in aqua suite or with the Aquero?
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro


Hi there

I have used PSU powered splitters in past on AQ 6XT or 6 Pro or even 5LT or 6LT with great success,just I wouldn't use Phobya fan splitters,its one poor product and its caused few headache on 6 Pro or 5LT etc,not sure if this has been problem of those spitters or ASUS motherboard,I used Asus Rampage V Extreme on two build and everytime I used these splitters this caused fan ramp up up to max for few minutes until I booted to Windows,tried PWM or voltage and this does happen several times

Then I went with cheap Aliexpress PSU powered splitter and fans ramp up for few seconds but nothing like with Phobya

You can try build own cable for PSU powering and PWM cable as well or you can buy something like is this

https://www.scan.co.uk/products/ek-cable-splitter-4-fan-pwm-extended?v=c

Hope this helps

Thanks,Jura


----------



## jura11

Hi guys

Bought another AQ Flow sensor "high flow" I thought so this "high flow" do using same connection cable like others flow sensors but looks like he is using different,I didn't read at all description but still postage to UK from AQ 14.90 EUR ouch is bit too much,in UK Aquatuning have and minimal order is £20,again no way I would be buying from them 

Not sure if someone don't have anyone spare this cable ?

Thanks,Jura


----------



## iamjanco

For the DC controlled fans Spin Cykle asked about, couldn't *PAs* be used?


----------



## Shoggy

Spin Cykle said:


> What are the short term peak loads for start up on the fan channels for the Aquaero 6LT with the heatsink installed?


There is no exact number available. The aquaero works with a dynamic overload tolerance. If you have a small overload it will be tolerated for a longer time while a huge overload will be only tolerated for a very short time. Well, it is enough for the D5 pump for example and this one can draw 70W when it spins up.



Spin Cykle said:


> Thank you! I never though my about powering the Splitty9 directly from my PSU. Can this be done with non-PWM fans. Will I loose an functionality in aqua suite or with the Aquero?


This is not possible with 3-pin fans. Such fans are controlled by the supplied voltage so it must be provided from the aquaero. If you add an external power source you would no longer be able to adjust its voltage.



jura11 said:


> but still postage to UK from AQ 14.90 EUR ouch is bit too much,in UK Aquatuning have and minimal order is £20,again no way I would be buying from them


Not sure if you meant our shop with "AQ". For small parts like this cable you can select a padded envelope as shipping option which is only 5,00 Euro.



iamjanco said:


> For the DC controlled fans Spin Cykle asked about, couldn't *PAs* be used?


Yes, would be possible but makes no real difference. The aquaero 6 and poweradjust 3 use the same voltage controller.


----------



## jura11

Shoggy said:


> There is no exact number available. The aquaero works with a dynamic overload tolerance. If you have a small overload it will be tolerated for a longer time while a huge overload will be only tolerated for a very short time. Well, it is enough for the D5 pump for example and this one can draw 70W when it spins up.
> 
> 
> This is not possible with 3-pin fans. Such fans are controlled by the supplied voltage so it must be provided from the aquaero. If you add an external power source you would no longer be able to adjust its voltage.
> 
> 
> Not sure if you meant our shop with "AQ". For small parts like this cable you can select a padded envelope as shipping option which is only 5,00 Euro.
> 
> 
> Yes, would be possible but makes no real difference. The aquaero 6 and poweradjust 3 use the same voltage controller.


Hi Shoggy

Yes I meant Aquacomputer shop,do you have any supplier in UK which would carry these cables? 

Yes I saw this option in yours shop but 30 days shipping time is just too long and price is good at 5.00 EUR for shipping but 30 days waiting time

Thanks, Jura


----------



## Shoggy

That up to 30 days thing is just an average time with customers outside Europe in mind. Shipping to UK will be much faster of course.

I don't know any specifc resellers in UK that carry that cable.


----------



## jura11

Shoggy said:


> That up to 30 days thing is just an average time with customers outside Europe in mind. Shipping to UK will be much faster of course.
> 
> I don't know any specifc resellers in UK that carry that cable.


Hi Shoggy can you check what is usual UK shipping time or how long this can take, I assume 7-10days then I'm happy to order 

I check almost every reseller over here, but seems is only Aquatuning have he is in stock

Thanks, Jura


----------



## GTXJackBauer

jura11 said:


> Hi Shoggy can you check what is usual UK shipping time or how long this can take, I assume 7-10days then I'm happy to order
> 
> I check almost every reseller over here, but seems is only Aquatuning have he is in stock
> 
> Thanks, Jura



I got stuff from AQ to the states in that time frame so I assume you'll be quicker. Yes, even the cheaper padded shipment.


----------



## jura11

GTXJackBauer said:


> I got stuff from AQ to the states in that time frame so I assume you'll be quicker. Yes, even the cheaper padded shipment.


Hi there 

Thanks, ordered from supplier over here in UK which I found and looks they have this in stock

If this supplier fails on me, then I will be ordering from Aquacomputer 

Hope this helps 

Thanks, Jura


----------



## Shoggy

jura11 said:


> Hi Shoggy can you check what is usual UK shipping time or how long this can take, I assume 7-10days then I'm happy to order


According to the mail service it is 2-4 days.


----------



## Bartdude

Shoggy said:


> According to the mail service it is 2-4 days.


I can confirm, i live in the UK and I've had several items delivered from Aquatuning and they never took more than a few days to arrive


----------



## jura11

Shoggy said:


> According to the mail service it is 2-4 days.


Hi Shoggy 

Thanks,wish I know that sooner, ordered yesterday from UK based shop and if doesn't arrive on Friday then will order from yours shop

Thanks, Jura


----------



## grumf

Probably a stupid question, but if I wanted to control all of my water cooling loop from the Aquero, is there a connection available from the Aquero to the motherboard CPU_Fan header to prevent CPU_Fan Error on boot? e.g. below 










Or does everyone just put the fan speed to ignore in the bios?


----------



## ExcellentAmp

grumf said:


> Probably a stupid question, but if I wanted to control all of my water cooling loop from the Aquero, is there a connection available from the Aquero to the motherboard CPU_Fan header to prevent CPU_Fan Error on boot? e.g. below
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Or does everyone just put the fan speed to ignore in the bios?


I believe there's a 3-pin rpm cable that can be run from the rpm header on the Aquaero to your mobo cpu fan header.


----------



## Spin Cykle

Shoggy said:


> There is no exact number available. The aquaero works with a dynamic overload tolerance. If you have a small overload it will be tolerated for a longer time while a huge overload will be only tolerated for a very short time. Well, it is enough for the D5 pump for example and this one can draw 70W when it spins up.
> 
> 
> 
> Yes, would be possible but makes no real difference. The aquaero 6 and poweradjust 3 use the same voltage controller.



So should I try the 8 fans and see what happens? I’m not sure I understand what you’re trying to say? What’s the worst case scenario if I attach all 8 fans and it draws to much power? 

Based on your second comment, a Power Adjust 3 has the same voltage controller. Which states... “Short term peak loads can be up to 54 Watts to accommodate high start-up currents caused by pumps and fans.” Is the 54W load for all 4 fan channels? Or individual? 

If the above statement is true for the Aquero 6LT, I should have no trouble drawing 34.56W on a 2 second start up burst on one fan channel. 

Thank you for the replies! I really appreciate the help. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro


----------



## Shoggy

You can just try it. If the load is too high the aquaero will disable the channel and throws an overload alarm.


----------



## Aenra

O.K., did my due and read 1K pages, just so i can finally feel comfy in saying this 

So the problem as i see it is that years later:

1) new fans continue to pop with the exact same PWM-related issues much older ones did. Meaning the problem is Intel for messing about where it had no business to (we already had a PWM standard), but that's over and done with. Let us stick to the issue occasionally re-surfacing ^^
2) posts contradicting one another abound, leading to further confusion; have the newer AQ6 versions solved this entirely? Partly? What about 'x' just released fan for which no data currently exists in this site? I see some pretty knowledgeable people asking this, alongside everyone else; telling me that said confusion, potentially mind, may have a basis on aspects a bit deeper than the odd multiple post obfuscation.
3) it all amounting to misunderstandings that hurt both AC and other companies. Only just recently someone felt cornered between a certain fan and the purchase -or not- of an Aquaero. As you may imagine, one of which was not bought. His way of solving the problem, stress-free. After reading said thread, i had a look out of curiosity and found other similar threads, resulting in the exact same dilemmas.

So that being out in the open, i had two questions, hope you'll excuse me:

- has this (Diva's mod or something similar) been integrated, as a system, into the AQ6? Putting this all in the past? If not, why?

- If it _has_ been integrated/overcome, may we please, for the love of God, add this both to the OP here and the AC store's Aquaero's URL? So we can bury this for good?

* And a P.S., as i was relatively amused to read certain intellectually lacking/shallow attitudes; i too can occasionally be an elitist, hell, i'm downright racist to be frank, but even so, i can distinguish between potential/intellect and expertise or lack of; two vastly different things. We cannot all be -or become- electricians. Life offers plenty of other avenues. What we are, here, in this, is mere customers. Just a reminder as i'm sure we don't need any more " read post 'x' " mentions in this thread. Posts 'x', and 'y', have been read. I could not make that thing even if i wanted to, design in front of me. Can't. All i can resort to is.. well, this. Asking for something a bit more informative, a bit more condensed, a bit more official. Definitely a bit more prominent 
And my apologies for the wall of text. I do not mean to bore y'all to death, i just understand that persistence may easily be misconstrued so i wanted to explain; in terms that perhaps can illustrate to just how many this remains (and understandably so) an open topic.


----------



## iamjanco

Aenra said:


> O.K., did my due and read 1K pages, just so i can finally feel comfy in saying this
> 
> So the problem as i see it is that years later:
> 
> 1) new fans continue to pop with the exact same PWM-related issues much older ones did. Meaning the problem is Intel for messing about where it had no business to (we already had a PWM standard), but that's over and done with. Let us stick to the issue occasionally re-surfacing ^^
> 2) posts contradicting one another abound, leading to further confusion; have the newer AQ6 versions solved this entirely? Partly? What about 'x' just released fan for which no data currently exists in this site? I see some pretty knowledgeable people asking this, alongside everyone else; telling me that said confusion, potentially mind, may have a basis on aspects a bit deeper than the odd multiple post obfuscation.
> 3) it all amounting to misunderstandings that hurt both AC and other companies. Only just recently someone felt cornered between a certain fan and the purchase -or not- of an Aquaero. As you may imagine, one of which was not bought. His way of solving the problem, stress-free. After reading said thread, i had a look out of curiosity and found other similar threads, resulting in the exact same dilemmas.
> 
> So that being out in the open, i had two questions, hope you'll excuse me:
> 
> *- has this (Diva's mod or something similar) been integrated, as a system, into the AQ6? Putting this all in the past? If not, why?
> 
> - If it has been integrated/overcome, may we please, for the love of God, add this both to the OP here and the AC store's Aquaero's URL? So we can bury this for good?*
> 
> * And a P.S., as i was relatively amused to read certain intellectually lacking/shallow attitudes; i too can occasionally be an elitist, hell, i'm downright racist to be frank, but even so, i can distinguish between potential/intellect and expertise or lack of; two vastly different things. We cannot all be -or become- electricians. Life offers plenty of other avenues. What we are, here, in this, is mere customers. Just a reminder as i'm sure we don't need any more " read post 'x' " mentions in this thread. Posts 'x', and 'y', have been read. I could not make that thing even if i wanted to, design in front of me. Can't. All i can resort to is.. well, this. Asking for something a bit more informative, a bit more condensed, a bit more official. Definitely a bit more prominent
> And my apologies for the wall of text. I do not mean to bore y'all to death, i just understand that persistence may easily be misconstrued so i wanted to explain; in terms that perhaps can illustrate to just how many this remains (and understandably so) an open topic.


Yup, the content is a mess, I don't think anyone can argue that, but I suspect most here certainly can appreciate your concern  

As for your questions about the integration of the pwm fix into the AQ6:

The answer to the first part is "partially." If I'm not mistaken, at least in part, a resistor was changed on the AQ6 to address a pwm related issue associated with the use of Corsair and other pwm fans (and/or perhaps certain pwm pumps, but I'm not sure). Unfortunately, the change wasn't much help for *a pwm issue that's experienced when using SW3 (and perhaps other) pwm fans* with the Aquaero, which is caused by the fans themselves. BeQuiet, the manufacturer of those fans was made aware of the issue, but ignored it for whatever reasons and today, it still exists; hence the need for the IT Diva mod if you want to use those fans with the Aquero.

As for the whys of the issue itself, it's more one of manufacturers not adhering to existing specs when they develop new products; one might blame Intel, but *that spec* has been around quite some time now. 

Hope that helps


----------



## Talon720

grumf said:


> Probably a stupid question, but if I wanted to control all of my water cooling loop from the Aquero, is there a connection available from the Aquero to the motherboard CPU_Fan header to prevent CPU_Fan Error on boot? e.g. below
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Or does everyone just put the fan speed to ignore in the bios?


You can turn the no cpu fan error off.. i forgot exactly what options... maybe it was the ignore option at the cpu temp monitor and or disabling the cpu fan header.


----------



## Aenra

iamjanco said:


> Hope that helps



It does actually, thank you Jan 
Limited knowledge is a horrible thing to be afflicted by, lol. Time.. that's the true capital ^^

Anyway!
Barring any official statement from Shoggy regarding future (re)developments or further adjustments on the AQ6?

A request from anyone willing:
I know there are programs for PCB design and i know there are programs to help in visualizing component placement on said PCB layouts; could someone perhaps upload Darlene's mod in such a comprehensive manner?
Think totally clueless individual (such as moi), taking said diagram, as is, and _only_ needing to take it to someone and tell them "i want you to build me this". No clarifications required (as i'd be unable to provide them needless to say). If anyone could do that, i'd be eternally grateful, lol


----------



## iamjanco

*Diva Mod / Associated PWM Issue: Quasi Index Update*

_Ughhh, that was a lot of work_. Much of the content migrated to the current vBulletin instance has broken links embedded in it (or the redirects don't work correctly, at least not fully), which essentially makes such content useless to whatever degree depending on how much context those links provide. :thumbsdow

Anyway, I've updated the content from an *older post of mine* and am adding its revised content here in the hope it helps make it easier to research the issue some pwm fans and pumps had/still have using them with the Aquaero. I believe I caught all the broken links and corrected them, but let me know if you come across any that still need fixing.

*Note: just noted that while the updated links work correctly if I'm not logged in, they do not work correctly if I am logged in, at least on Chrome. * Correction: disregard that; had to clear my cache in Chrome. Before reporting any broken links, you might want to do likewise.

*The following is current as of the date of this post:*

For those interested in the "Diva Mod," the background behind it and the reason(s) why I'm so interested in it, I figured I'd share the following compilation of links to info associated with it. My reasons include the fact that I want to use PWM versions of BeQuiet's SW3 (which I already had on hand) in my current build which includes an AQ6 and related components.

I'm hoping some of you will find it useful, at least as a summary of what I've noted in the thousands upon thousands of pages here and elsewhere.

My question(s) are based on what I've read in the linked info that follows below, and is/are pretty much summed up as follows:

Ref. Thermal Bench: Fan Reviews, specifically the performance data for the fans in question; see content about RPM tracking related issues associated with certain PWM fans used with the AQ6. Also see Shoggy's (Our AquaComputer Support guy) *explanation of the issue with PWM SW3 fans* (*starts here *and goes on for a number of posts; essentially what VSG from Thermal Bench used as the basis to provide an explanation of what’s going on with certain pwm fans when used with the Aquaero).

That noted, per what I've read throughout the following links, the issue was applicable to Corsair PWM fans before AC did their resistor mod on the AQ6, though I'm not sure if that's been addressed in all cases of Corsair PWM fans, e.g., e*specially when a larger number (more than 6-8) of Corsair fans are being controlled via one channel; the question I had when I first posted this message is does the issue still apply to BeQuiet SW3 PWM fans? The answer to that is yes, it does, and as far as I know BeQuiet has no intention of ever addressing it.*

Lastly, I'd just like to *shout out a BIG THANK YOU to *Darlene for all her hard work supporting others since *she* got involved with this sort of stuff. She's an incredibly talented, selfless resource who obviously has helped countless others, whether lurker or not. *Shoggy* from AC also deserves a big thanks of course, as do numerous others who've been frequenting the forums since the dawn of time.

It starts with the PWM D5 related stuff...

*AquaComputer Aquaero 6* (2/22/14)
Darlene does a little tweaking on the circuit she’s designed to run the PWM D5's from the Aquaero 6; some may wish to start here and read through the next few pages as a lot of relevant info is covered

*[AquaComputer] Aquaero 6 *(2/25/14)
Darlene's home brew PCB's for pwm pumps ready to assemble (she’s done etching the PCBs)

*[AquaComputer] Aquaero 6 *(2/26/14)
Darlene's bare minimum +5V source and pull-up resistor example for pwm pumps

*Darlene's DIY Voltage Controlled Scalable PWM Controller* (for pwm pumps) Thread (5/27/13)
(background info; Darlene includes the following link to an offsite post at OCN at overclockers.com, 04/20/10)

*Adjustable PWM Controller for 4 wires PWM fans* (offsite at overclockers)

*Precision PWM Controller For Martin's Liquid Lab Thread *(7/21/13)
Discussion about a controller Darlene put together way back when for Martin from the now essentially defunct *Martin’s Liquid Labs*  (*that was nice of her, eh?*). Btw, though it's older info, Martin's archives still contain a wealth of information still applicable today in many cases (*also see this version of his old site*) 

*The best PWM rad fans (going to be very exact spec needs)* Thread (8/10/14)
Discussion about pwm fans; Darlene provides additional background info about issue associated with the use of Corsair pwm fans

*Darlene Quoted* (8/13/14):

_I'm particularly familiar with the issue with the Corsair fans because it's become a big problem for Aquaero 6 owners who bought the AQ6 because it has 4 PWM capable channels expecting it to work with Corsair fans.

The issue is that Corsair does not follow the Intel PWM standard with their fans, since they designed them primarily to work with their own Corsair Link system. . .

They do market them however, as PWM, and that implies that they should behave like all the other PWM fans out there...

But they Do Not.​_
*OCN Aquaero Owners Club *(3/16/14)
Darlene answers one of the first questions about controlling PWM D5s using the AQ5 or AQ6 (includes one of the first illustrations of the simplified "Diva Mod")

*OCN Aquaero Owners Club* (3/16/14)
Darlene's post about the "Diva Mod" Simple Y-Cable Setup for Dual D5s (also see *this post *for some additional technical background info)

*OCN Aquaero Owners Club* (3/19/14)
Darlene provides a Little Update on the Corsair Fans saga (test results, read forward from this post for additional info)

*OCN Aquaero Owners Club* (6/16/14)
Darlene illustrates the changes AC made to resistor values on the AQ6 to help accommodate Corsair PWM fans (how to tell if they were done on your Aquaero)

*The Utterly Imbalanced CaseLabs TX10-D build(s)!* (7/2/14, over at techpowerup.com, Darlene's work cited)
VSG mentions the impact too many incompatible PWM fans have on RPMs displayed by the Aquaero and the fact that Darlene’s mod helped resolve the issue. *Note*: relevant images no longer display in this post, but appear to be accessible if you right click on their broken image links and open them in a new tab.

*OCN Dave's Air Cooling Guide* (9/22/14, read thread forward from here, discussion by DaveLT and Luke Cool about a "PWM amplifier"; earlier info in thread might also be of interest to some)

*PWN splitter, PWN fan controller, PWN motherboard pins questions* (9/25/14)
Darlene points out others' "bass ackwards" concepts associated with the pwm issue

*Also see her hand-drawn schematic, pix and notes that follow the previous post in the same thread (noted immediately above) * (9/25/14, *of special interest; I cleaned up one of the images she used there and copied its associated notes to the spoiler immdiately below this link*):



Spoiler



*What follows is Darlene's work; I only cleaned up her image for improved viewing purposes:*

*Quick schematic sketch and a 4 channel implementation shown below.*

I didn't show the schematic for the Zener voltage regulators, as it's just 2 parts... the diode and its 330 ohm 1/2 W series resistor.

I built this and several other prototypes to be able to use the Aquaero 6 with its 4 PWM channels to drive the PWM version of the D5 pump, which does not follow the Intel PWM Standard, and has no internal pullup on the PWM line

This circuit also controls a lot of the notoriously hard to control, Corsair PWM fans on each channel... have 18 of them to test with, and it easily would have managed many more... that's per channel

The working PCB has a 5.1V Zener diode to supply the 5V supply level for the 555 and the 5V pullup, via the 3.3K resistor, on the PWM line to the controller from the 12V on the controller power pins 1 & 2 for each channel.

The Aquaero 6 follows the Intel standard, and does not have an internal pullup, which is why it won't natively control the PWM D5 pump.

This PCB uses the TLC555 chips which work better than the NE555.

It also uses small logic level gate mosfets in open drain configuration for the outputs.

Use ~100 resistors from the 555 output pin 3 to the gate.

If you use bipolar transistors, as in the schematic, using something fairly generic like 2N2222 or 2N3904 and from 1k to 4.7K from pin 3 to the base and you'll be fine.

The "optional pullup circuit" shown on the diagram is implemented on the PCB with jumpers to select either a higher or lower value pullup resistor, or no pullup at all.

You only need pullup for the PWM D5 pumps, that's why I did it with jumpers so it can be left unconnected for fan control.












*OCN Aquaero Owners Club*
More info by others about the PWM issue, other hubs, etc.; not necessarily applicable to the Aquaero (11/27/14, read from here forward)

*OCN Aquaero Owners Club* (11/27/14)
Darlene sums it up once again, for Phanteks users and other folks (read forward)

*OCN Aquaero Owners Club* (12/26/15)
Darlene corrects incorrect info by another about connecting PWM D5s to the AQ6 for a very good reason (read through the rest of the page as well, at least until you get through *here*, give or take a few posts)

*Other related info:*

*4-Wire Pulse Width Modulation (PWM) Controlled Fans Specification*
September 2005, Revision 1.3

*What is PWM and how does it work?* (7/14/16, offsite, good read for noobs)

*Maximintegrated: Fan Speed Control Is Cool!* (originally ca. 2000, updated/reposted 04/27/11, offsite, another interesting read for noobs)

NIDEC's "*A Simple PWM Generator for Fan Speed Control*" (offsite, click through the read "more" links)

*Pull-up Resistors* (good discussion about pullup and pulldown resistors used in logic circuits; for the nerds)

Also offsite at overclockers.com, *Building PWM Controller for 4 wires PWM fan*, long 113 page thread


----------



## Revan654

Aenra said:


> O.K., did my due and read 1K pages, just so i can finally feel comfy in saying this
> 
> So the problem as i see it is that years later:
> 
> 1) new fans continue to pop with the exact same PWM-related issues much older ones did. Meaning the problem is *Intel* for messing about where it had no business to (we already had a PWM standard), but that's over and done with. Let us stick to the issue occasionally re-surfacing ^^
> 2) posts contradicting one another abound, leading to further confusion; have the newer AQ6 versions solved this entirely? Partly? What about 'x' just released fan for which no data currently exists in this site? I see some pretty knowledgeable people asking this, alongside everyone else; telling me that said confusion, potentially mind, may have a basis on aspects a bit deeper than the odd multiple post obfuscation.
> 3) it all amounting to misunderstandings that hurt both AC and other companies. Only just recently someone felt cornered between a certain fan and the purchase -or not- of an Aquaero. As you may imagine, one of which was not bought. His way of solving the problem, stress-free. After reading said thread, i had a look out of curiosity and found other similar threads, resulting in the exact same dilemmas.
> 
> So that being out in the open, i had two questions, hope you'll excuse me:
> 
> - has this (Diva's mod or something similar) been integrated, as a system, into the AQ6? Putting this all in the past? If not, why?
> 
> - If it _has_ been integrated/overcome, may we please, for the love of God, add this both to the OP here and the AC store's Aquaero's URL? So we can bury this for good?
> 
> * And a P.S., as i was relatively amused to read certain intellectually lacking/shallow attitudes; i too can occasionally be an elitist, hell, i'm downright racist to be frank, but even so, i can distinguish between potential/intellect and expertise or lack of; two vastly different things. We cannot all be -or become- electricians. Life offers plenty of other avenues. What we are, here, in this, is mere customers. Just a reminder as i'm sure we don't need any more " read post 'x' " mentions in this thread. Posts 'x', and 'y', have been read. I could not make that thing even if i wanted to, design in front of me. Can't. All i can resort to is.. well, this. Asking for something a bit more informative, a bit more condensed, a bit more official. Definitely a bit more prominent
> And my apologies for the wall of text. I do not mean to bore y'all to death, i just understand that persistence may easily be misconstrued so i wanted to explain; in terms that perhaps can illustrate to just how many this remains (and understandably so) an open topic.


No, Since it would require a hardware re-work in the AQ6. AQ did post a long summary of the problem and what is and isn't possible with AQ6. You should have come across it at some point while reading this thread, Not sure when or where it's at in this thread. 

I also believe thermalBench talked about t briefly in there review of Silent Wings 3 PWM version.

Here is the link to that: http://thermalbench.com/2016/09/05/be-quiet-silent-wings-3-120-mm-fan/3/

-----



iamjanco said:


> Yup, the content is a mess, I don't think anyone can argue that, but I suspect most here certainly can appreciate your concern
> 
> As for your questions about the integration of the pwm fix into the AQ6:
> 
> The answer to the first part is "partially." If I'm not mistaken, at least in part, a resistor was changed on the AQ6 to address a pwm related issue associated with the use of Corsair and other pwm fans (and/or perhaps certain pwm pumps, but I'm not sure). Unfortunately, the change wasn't much help for *a pwm issue that's experienced when using SW3 (and perhaps other) pwm fans* with the Aquaero, which is caused by the fans themselves. BeQuiet, the manufacturer of those fans was made aware of the issue, but ignored it for whatever reasons and today, it still exists; hence the need for the IT Diva mod if you want to use those fans with the Aquero.
> 
> As for the whys of the issue itself, it's more one of manufacturers not adhering to existing specs when they develop new products; one might blame Intel, but *that spec* has been around quite some time now.
> 
> Hope that helps


I also believe the new EK Evo's have issues as well similar to SW3. Someone posted having problems getting the fans to run. I'm guessing it's due to the 0db feature they have (The Start-Stop function).


----------



## Aenra

Revan654 said:


> No, Since it would require a hardware re-work in the AQ6. AQ did post a long summary of the problem and what is and isn't possible with AQ6



When it pertains to tech expertise far above and beyond my petty potential, i call it a day; which is, i'm sure you'd agree, the responsible thing to do.
When it pertains to reasoning, i allow me some extra leeway.
If 'a' Darlene, on her own, could work up a simple circuitry with which to overcome not only past, but future issues as well? Logic allows for the slim, slightest possibility an expert manufacturer could too; if they were so inclined.
So while, again, i did read and do recall, allow me my questions if you will. We can always brand them rhetorical if it's of any assistance.

There could always be an AQ7 end of the day; tomorrow, or next year. Or an Aq6 plus, re-dubbed AQ6 (something which has already occured, and as thus could yet again).

Regardless, to reiterate so i'm not misunderstood:
- I merely wanted to make sure of where things stand, in the off chance it was all in the past, with only myself unaware of it. Has happened before 
- If that wasn't the case, i wanted to enquire as to whether any change, improvement or further adjustment was on the horizon. And before you say it, read what i posted above please.
- No bashing or critique on AQ's side. I've given them money gladly, will be doing so yet again.

Now as to EVOs, i do recall that post, but wasn't it sorted in the end? I think it was just the splitter/extension/whatever cable he was using that was causing it? Could be mistaken though. *And my apologies if i'm confusing things.


----------



## Revan654

Aenra said:


> When it pertains to tech expertise far above and beyond my petty potential, i call it a day; which is, i'm sure you'd agree, the responsible thing to do.
> When it pertains to reasoning, i allow me some extra leeway.
> If 'a' Darlene, on her own, could work up a simple circuitry with which to overcome not only past, but future issues as well? Logic allows for the slim, slightest possibility an expert manufacturer could too; if they were so inclined.
> So while, again, i did read and do recall, allow me my questions if you will. We can always brand them rhetorical if it's of any assistance.
> 
> There could always be an AQ7 end of the day; tomorrow, or next year. Or an Aq6 plus, re-dubbed AQ6 (something which has already occured, and as thus could yet again).
> 
> Regardless, to reiterate so i'm not misunderstood:
> - I merely wanted to make sure of where things stand, in the off chance it was all in the past, with only myself unaware of it. Has happened before
> - If that wasn't the case, i wanted to enquire as to whether any change, improvement or further adjustment was on the horizon. And before you say it, read what i posted above please.
> - No bashing or critique on AQ's side. I've given them money gladly, will be doing so yet again.
> 
> Now as to EVOs, i do recall that post, but wasn't it sorted in the end? I think it was just the splitter/extension/whatever cable he was using that was causing it? Could be mistaken though. *And my apologies if i'm confusing things.


It wasn't here it was on AQ forums, There forum doesn't show past posts on topics. I have no idea what post it was in. Everything was wired to Splitty9 if I recall correctly. 

There will be a AQ7 some day, It's just unknown when. I know the new aquabus pump is being released in about 3 to 6 months, there could be other surprises at that time as well.


----------



## iamjanco

Aenra said:


> Spoiler
> 
> 
> 
> When it pertains to tech expertise far above and beyond my petty potential, i call it a day; which is, i'm sure you'd agree, the responsible thing to do.
> When it pertains to reasoning, i allow me some extra leeway.
> If 'a' Darlene, on her own, could work up a simple circuitry with which to overcome not only past, but future issues as well? Logic allows for the slim, slightest possibility an expert manufacturer could too; if they were so inclined.
> So while, again, i did read and do recall, allow me my questions if you will. We can always brand them rhetorical if it's of any assistance.
> 
> There could always be an AQ7 end of the day; tomorrow, or next year. Or an Aq6 plus, re-dubbed AQ6 (something which has already occured, and as thus could yet again).
> 
> Regardless, to reiterate so i'm not misunderstood:
> - I merely wanted to make sure of where things stand, in the off chance it was all in the past, with only myself unaware of it. Has happened before
> - If that wasn't the case, i wanted to enquire as to whether any change, improvement or further adjustment was on the horizon. And before you say it, read what i posted above please.
> - No bashing or critique on AQ's side. I've given them money gladly, will be doing so yet again.
> 
> 
> 
> Now as to EVOs, i do recall that post, but wasn't it sorted in the end? I think it was just the splitter/extension/whatever cable he was using that was causing it? Could be mistaken though. *And my apologies if i'm confusing things.


No, you're okay, as well as correct  @NYSE had that problem and *fixed it by modifying the splitter setup* he was using.


----------



## iamjanco

Revan654 said:


> It wasn't here it was on AQ forums, There forum doesn't show past posts on topics. I have no idea what post it was in. Everything was wired to Splitty9 if I recall correctly.
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler
> 
> 
> 
> There will be a AQ7 some day, It's just unknown when. I know the new aquabus pump is being released in about 3 to 6 months, there could be other surprises at that time as well.


Actually, such info is pretty easy to find if you know what to look for. I mean, you even posted (multiple times) in one of the following threads:

*Need some performance help please*
*Red LED on Aquaero 6 Pro flashing - English forum - Aqua Computer*

Btw, it might be wise to clear it with @IT Diva before recommending her services on other sites. I'm not sure she ever really sold them here (or any version of her mod, for that matter). Darlene, feel free to correct me if I'm mistaken and/or out of line.


----------



## Aenra

iamjanco said:


> No, you're okay, as well as correct



I'm always correct! Everyone knows that! Wait 'till i tell my friend Biggus Dickus about this.

Btw what is this sorcery you do? With a URL disguised as a simple sentence? What runes must i carve and on what kind of stone?


----------



## iamjanco

Aenra said:


> I'm always correct! Everyone knows that! Wait 'till i tell my friend Biggus Dickus about this.
> 
> Btw what is this sorcery you do? With *a URL disguised as a simple sentence*? What runes must i carve and on what kind of stone?


Elementary wysiwyg html, my dear Watson...

First, you make sure your editor is set to something other than its default, basic view. You can do that via: 

*UserCP >> Edit options (under settings and options on left) >> Miscellaneous Options >> Message Editor Interface >> choose something better than basic.*

Then you insert some text like this, select one or more words or whatever in it, then click the *Insert Link* button, insert a link in the pop up that opens, click *OK* in that popup, and walla, your runes are ready to be posted:


----------



## Aenra

Am feeling old(er) now..

Thanks for the tip, lol, will experiment ^^


----------



## kkturbo

*License key comes with D5 usb pump?*

Hi, I´m spanish, sorry about my por english.
I bought my D5 USB/Aquabus in a Online shop here in Spain, when I recived the pump, it wasn´t inside a box of aquacomputer, the shop tell me that the pump dont come in a oficial box from Aquacomputer. Is it right??
Another thing, the D5 comes without a key fot the aquasuite license??, or the key must be in the box I don have??
Thanks again and so sorry for my english.


----------



## RAZZTA01

Hi!
I am still using a AE4.0. It works ok. Only issue is I have 2 attached to my rig and due to the issue of usb1.xx one of them sometimes turns on without the profile that it should load at startup.
Maybe I am lucky and someone can confirm if i can use a script to load at startup that tells my AE to load a specific profile?
Thx in advance.


----------



## Revan654

kkturbo said:


> Hi, I´m spanish, sorry about my por english.
> I bought my D5 USB/Aquabus in a Online shop here in Spain, when I recived the pump, it wasn´t inside a box of aquacomputer, the shop tell me that the pump dont come in a oficial box from Aquacomputer. Is it right??
> Another thing, the D5 comes without a key fot the aquasuite license??, or the key must be in the box I don have??
> Thanks again and so sorry for my english.


No, That's BS. Both my pumps came in AQ boxes. The Keys are on the outside of the box if there needed. The license key is already in the device memory. You just have to plug it in and go.


----------



## Shoggy

kkturbo said:


> the shop tell me that the pump dont come in a oficial box from Aquacomputer. Is it right??
> Another thing, the D5 comes without a key fot the aquasuite license??, or the key must be in the box I don have??


As already said the pumps come with a retail package. Maybe you got used pumps. If you tell me their serial number we can check if they have been used before.



RAZZTA01 said:


> I am still using a AE4.0. It works ok. Only issue is I have 2 attached to my rig and due to the issue of usb1.xx one of them sometimes turns on without the profile that it should load at startup.
> Maybe I am lucky and someone can confirm if i can use a script to load at startup that tells my AE to load a specific profile?


I am sorry but that is not possible.


----------



## Leonko

any possibility Aquaero 7 coming out soon?


----------



## nycgtr

Is it possible to connect 2 different fans to the same header if they have similar rpm range. I want to use the ml 140 and ml 120 on the same header. Their specs in terms of rpm are very close 400-2000, and 400-2400


----------



## 7thOmen

A question for @Shoggy.

Can an AquaComputer flow meter such as the 'High Flow G1/4' be safely used with EKWB's Fluid Gaming line of products?
I have two of these flow meters in use, but I have never dissected them to see what their internal components are made from. I'd obviously like to avoid the pitfalls of mixing incompatible metals.

Thanks!

Omen


----------



## jura11

nycgtr said:


> Is it possible to connect 2 different fans to the same header if they have similar rpm range. I want to use the ml 140 and ml 120 on the same header. Their specs in terms of rpm are very close 400-2000, and 400-2400


Hi there 

Can't comment on ML fans, but running on I think Channel 3 2*PH-F140SP and 18* Noiseblocker BlackSilent Pro PL2 120mm (9 fans are on MO-ra3 360mm and other 9 are on 3*360mm radiators) and 2*Noiseblocker BlackSilent Pro PL2 140mm and no issues, although RPM range is now bit higher, previously I could run Phanteks PH-F140SP as lowest at 700RPM now I'm running all these fans at 850-900RPM as minimum and max is 1150RPM 

Disconnected Phanteks PH-F140SP and tried what max RPM I can get and max RPM has been around 1300RPM 

In yours case I would thought so these fans have similar PWM curve and you shouldn't have issue 

Hope this helps 

Thanks, Jura


----------



## Talon720

I thought it was mentioned somewhere here but just incase the ek g2 pwm d5 pumps work with the aquero pwm. So my issue is the remote and it was working as intended. I must have done something and I can’t get it to control the aquero or switch to control anything else. The remote is working however as I can manually assign commands. What the heck did I do?


----------



## zeroibis

nycgtr said:


> Is it possible to connect 2 different fans to the same header if they have similar rpm range. I want to use the ml 140 and ml 120 on the same header. Their specs in terms of rpm are very close 400-2000, and 400-2400


I have those fans but just not mixed that way. I would assume they would run at the set PWM % that you put the channel on. In my case I have everything set to the same PWM % based on the delta T. 

You can always plug them together if they follow the same PWM properties (follow intel pwm spec). They will just run at the respective rpm relative to the PWM level you set.


----------



## Revan654

7thOmen said:


> A question for @Shoggy.
> 
> Can an AquaComputer flow meter such as the 'High Flow G1/4' be safely used with EKWB's Fluid Gaming line of products?
> I have two of these flow meters in use, but I have never dissected them to see what their internal components are made from. I'd obviously like to avoid the pitfalls of mixing incompatible metals.
> 
> Thanks!
> 
> Omen


Yes, EK Cyro-fuel is one of the safer coolants out there. Since it's designed for different metals not just copper(Not together, Since there coolant can be used for there main parts or there Gaming Series). Anything from Mayhem Other then Aurora, is also safe. Those flow meters are designed for copper based loops. It's works safely with XT-1 Nuke (When is what I use.

-------

Speaking of Flow meters is the data curve important by it self once MPS version is selected in the settings(I'm using Flow 400)? or do we have to enter some manual data as well? My tubing is 16mm Glass with two aquabus D5 running at 50% each currently. I know there been a few changes to the software since 2016, Which is post I'm looking at for data from the Flow.


----------



## Revan654

nycgtr said:


> Is it possible to connect 2 different fans to the same header if they have similar rpm range. I want to use the ml 140 and ml 120 on the same header. Their specs in terms of rpm are very close 400-2000, and 400-2400


You can However the AQ will use the data from only one fan and pass those settings along all the other fans that are connected to that header. If you use 140, 120mm fan will use the setting from 140 and will run a bit slow then if you plug 120mm directly into the header.

Also make sure whatever your using to join the fans make sure is PWM on all connections. ML Pro's don't do well with Non-PWM signals(They will grind, when can destroy the fan and create allot of bad noise). I would suggest only using Splitty9.


----------



## zerophase

Performance pcs only seems to be carrying the inline temp sensors for the Vision and not AQ 6. I would rather not have to wait for a temperature sensor to ship over from Europe. Would the Koolance or Phobya 10k ohm inline temp sensors work with the Aquaero?


----------



## GTXJackBauer

zerophase said:


> Performance pcs only seems to be carrying the inline temp sensors for the Vision and not AQ 6. I would rather not have to wait for a temperature sensor to ship over from Europe. Would the Koolance or Phobya 10k ohm inline temp sensors work with the Aquaero?


Most should work. I use phoyba temp probes as well. 

As far as shipping from EU goes, it won't be that long. It took me less then 2 weeks to get any shipment from them or roughly 6-8 business days at most, iirc.


----------



## Revan654

zerophase said:


> Performance pcs only seems to be carrying the inline temp sensors for the Vision and not AQ 6. I would rather not have to wait for a temperature sensor to ship over from Europe. Would the Koolance or Phobya 10k ohm inline temp sensors work with the Aquaero?


You can just re-crimp the vision version with Dupont terminal and they will work without any issues. The only difference between the two is the type of terminal and housing they use. The wiring and probe are the same in both.

I can confirm both Bitspower and Barrow temp sensors work flawlessly(It's what I use, Since they match my Radiators).

You find Bitspower versions at PPCS and Amazon.com
Barrow you can find them at Modmymods.com and Amazon.com


----------



## jvillaveces

Will this flowmeter work with AQ6?


----------



## zerophase

Revan654 said:


> zerophase said:
> 
> 
> 
> Performance pcs only seems to be carrying the inline temp sensors for the Vision and not AQ 6. I would rather not have to wait for a temperature sensor to ship over from Europe. Would the Koolance or Phobya 10k ohm inline temp sensors work with the Aquaero?
> 
> 
> 
> You can just re-crimp the vision version with Dupont terminal and they will work without any issues. The only difference between the two is the type of terminal and housing they use. The wiring and probe are the same in both.
> 
> I can confirm both Bitspower and Barrow temp sensors work flawlessly(It's what I use, Since they match my Radiators).
> 
> You find Bitspower versions at PPCS and Amazon.com
> Barrow you can find them at Modmymods.com and Amazon.com
Click to expand...

Ended up ordering an AQ sensor from mommymods. The phobya sensors weren't screwing in all the way.


----------



## yevonxxx

hi all,
has anyone of you plugged a normal led(not rgb) into the rgb port?
does it work?if yes can you tell me what led and which pins where?
cause in manual it says you can,but a working led i have does not light up even trying every possible pins combinations.


----------



## 7thOmen

yevonxxx said:


> hi all,
> has anyone of you plugged a normal led(not rgb) into the rgb port?
> does it work?if yes can you tell me what led and which pins where?
> cause in manual it says you can,but a working led i have does not light up even trying every possible pins combinations.


You may need to set up a controller for LED activation. If you have the manual, as was stated, then there is connector definition, showing the pin out, on page 6 of the Quick Start Guide. The resistor for *1 *LED per color is built in to the Aquaero.
EDIT to add that the same information is available in the aquaero_5_6_en_2014_04_14.pfd on page 11.

Pin 1: VCC LED 1
Pin 2: VCC LED 2
Pin 3: Ground
Pin 4: VCC LED 3

LED max: 3-4 V / 20mA

Omen


----------



## Shoggy

Revan654 said:


> Speaking of Flow meters is the data curve important by it self once MPS version is selected in the settings(I'm using Flow 400)? or do we have to enter some manual data as well? My tubing is 16mm Glass with two aquabus D5 running at 50% each currently. I know there been a few changes to the software since 2016, Which is post I'm looking at for data from the Flow.


You will have to select the type (mps flow 400) and a tubing size (13/10 in your case) and then load the calibration curve.


----------



## PuffinMyLye

First time Aquaero controller user here. Just picked up a 6 Pro and looking to connect the following:

2 Aquacomputer PWM D5 Pumps
4 Sets of PWM Fans
2 water temp sensors
1 LED light strip

Can these all be controlled by the Aquaero 6 Pro?


----------



## jvillaveces

PuffinMyLye said:


> First time Aquaero controller user here. Just picked up a 6 Pro and looking to connect the following:
> 
> 2 Aquacomputer PWM D5 Pumps
> 4 Sets of PWM Fans
> 2 water temp sensors
> 1 LED light strip
> 
> Can these all be controlled by the Aquaero 6 Pro?


All but the light strip. For that you need a separate accessory called "Farbwerk", which would let you control up to 4 RGB strips.


----------



## PuffinMyLye

jvillaveces said:


> All but the light strip. For that you need a separate accessory called "Farbwerk", which would let you control up to 4 RGB strips.



I've seen the Farbwerk but all I want it to be able to power on/off and dim a single white LED strip. Not looking to do anything crazy with software.


----------



## jvillaveces

PuffinMyLye said:


> I've seen the Farbwerk but all I want it to be able to power on/off and dim a single white LED strip. Not looking to do anything crazy with software.


You might be able to do it off one of the separate two pwm ports, but I don't remember what amperage they support. You need input from someone who knows what they're talking about. @Shoggy?


----------



## Ashcroft

PuffinMyLye said:


> I've seen the Farbwerk but all I want it to be able to power on/off and dim a single white LED strip. Not looking to do anything crazy with software.


The two PWM power ports can handle that easily. You just need the special adaptors that go on the ports to let you attach wires.
They can support 1A/12W each. 

My Darkside dimmable white 30cm strips are rated at 2.5W each but actually use a little less than that. I'm sure between the two ports you could run over 2M of single colour LEDs (as long as they use the same power as the Darkside)

The darkside strips work really well with a really good range of brightness. Some other cheap ones won't dim very much before simply shutting off.


----------



## PuffinMyLye

Ashcroft said:


> The two PWM power ports can handle that easily. *You just need the special adaptors that go on the ports to let you attach wires.*
> They can support 1A/12W each.
> 
> My Darkside dimmable white 30cm strips are rated at 2.5W each but actually use a little less than that. I'm sure between the two ports you could run over 2M of single colour LEDs (as long as they use the same power as the Darkside)
> 
> The darkside strips work really well with a really good range of brightness. Some other cheap ones won't dim very much before simply shutting off.



What is this adapter you speak of?

Also, if I'm connecting my two pumps to two of the fan headers, I assume I'm using 4-pin molex to 3-pin fan adapters (which I have). What do I connect the RPM cable of the pumps to?


----------



## Shoggy

You need this plug.

If your pumps have power and rpm on seperate plugs you might want to use this adapter.


----------



## PuffinMyLye

Shoggy said:


> You need this plug.
> 
> If your pumps have power and rpm on seperate plugs you might want to use this adapter.



So if I want to connect both pumps (Aquacomputer PWM D5's) I should get two of both that cable and the connector, correct? What goes into the other end of that connector as I can see it from the pictures?

Also, will I be able to determine what speed my pumps are running at with this type of connection?


----------



## Shoggy

No, you don't need an adapter cable in this case. If you have D5 PWM pumps you will take the power directly from the PSU (regular 4-pin power plug) and connect the the RPM and PWM signal (small 4-pin fan plug) to the fan headers of the aquaero. You could also use a y-cable to control both pumps the same way but you can only connect one RPM signal to the aquaero.


----------



## PuffinMyLye

Shoggy said:


> No, you don't need an adapter cable in this case. If you have D5 PWM pumps you will take the power directly from the PSU (regular 4-pin power plug) and connect the the RPM and PWM signal (small 4-pin fan plug) to the fan headers of the aquaero. You could also use a y-cable to control both pumps the same way but you can only connect one RPM signal to the aquaero.



The problem is I was hoping to avoid taking up two fan headers for the pumps because I need at least 3 for my fans. Since I can only connect one RPM signal to the AQ6, maybe I'm better off just plugging the pumps into the motherboard pump headers instead of the AQ6?


----------



## Bartdude

PuffinMyLye said:


> The problem is I was hoping to avoid taking up two fan headers for the pumps because I need at least 3 for my fans. Since I can only connect one RPM signal to the AQ6, maybe I'm better off just plugging the pumps into the motherboard pump headers instead of the AQ6?


Do you need to see both pump RPM signals, are you concerned about being able to see if one fails? You could use a flow meter and setup an alarm signal, that would indicate if there was a problem. That way you could do as Shoggy suggests and use a splitter. I have done just that, only difference is i used a Splitty9.


----------



## PuffinMyLye

Bartdude said:


> PuffinMyLye said:
> 
> 
> 
> The problem is I was hoping to avoid taking up two fan headers for the pumps because I need at least 3 for my fans. Since I can only connect one RPM signal to the AQ6, maybe I'm better off just plugging the pumps into the motherboard pump headers instead of the AQ6?
> 
> 
> 
> Do you need to see both pump RPM signals, are you concerned about being able to see if one fails? You could use a flow meter and setup an alarm signal, that would indicate if there was a problem. That way you could do as Shoggy suggests and use a splitter. I have done just that, only difference is i used a Splitty9.
Click to expand...


The reason I don't want to use a sitter for the pumps is they are for different loops and thus I may need/want to run the pumps at different speeds.


----------



## war4peace

PuffinMyLye said:


> The reason I don't want to use a sitter for the pumps is they are for different loops and thus I may need/want to run the pumps at different speeds.


If you want different speeds, use different PWM outputs, say #1 and #2. 
If you need 3 more fan headers, either use a Splitty9 and connect more fans to one header, or if you want 5 discrete fan headers, the solution would be to look for an used Aquaero 5 and slave it to the Aquaero 6.


----------



## GTXJackBauer

Or just grab a AQ 6 LT and slave it to the AQ 6.

Cheapest option is just to get some SPLITTY9s, put them for each fan channel and work it out that way while having both pumps in PWM header #1 and header #2. Just make sure you're not surpassing 30 watts per channel no matter what.


----------



## Revan654

PuffinMyLye said:


> I've seen the Farbwerk but all I want it to be able to power on/off and dim a single white LED strip. Not looking to do anything crazy with software.


Didn't we have a similar conversation in Case-Labs Thread?

Like I said, you can use Power Adjust 3 or any spare fan header in Power mode. Just drop the voltage to dim the LED. 6V is lowest is can go before shutting off. 12V G2 LED's are extremely bright(Atlease the Blue Version are).


----------



## Ashcroft

PuffinMyLye said:


> The reason I don't want to use a sitter for the pumps is they are for different loops and thus I may need/want to run the pumps at different speeds.


Yeah so maybe control one with the Aquaero and one with the MB if you want to save the Aquaero fan headers. 
Really pump control is not important. You could set them both to fixed speeds that are low noise with decent flow.


----------



## PuffinMyLye

Revan654 said:


> Didn't we have a similar conversation in Case-Labs Thread?
> 
> Like I said, you can use Power Adjust 3 or any spare fan header in Power mode. Just drop the voltage to dim the LED. 6V is lowest is can go before shutting off. 12V G2 LED's are extremely bright(Atlease the Blue Version are).



Yes, I had forgotten. I am going to power the LED strips (daisy chained) with one of the AQ6 fan headers.



Ashcroft said:


> Yeah so maybe control one with the Aquaero and one with the MB if you want to save the Aquaero fan headers.
> Really pump control is not important. You could set them both to fixed speeds that are low noise with decent flow.



Yea I'm going to connect both pumps to my MoBo pump headers. The 4 AQ6 fan headers will be used for rad fans (2 sets), case fans (1 set), and LED strips (daisy chained into one header).


----------



## Revan654

PuffinMyLye said:


> Yes, I had forgotten. I am going to power the LED strips (daisy chained) with one of the AQ6 fan headers.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yea I'm going to connect both pumps to my MoBo pump headers. The 4 AQ6 fan headers will be used for rad fans (2 sets), case fans (1 set), and LED strips (daisy chained into one header).


you can always use Power Adjust 3 to power the pumps.

I have 4x PowerAdjust 3 + AQ powering everything. I ditched the RGB controller since I can't get it to work correctly.


----------



## PuffinMyLye

Revan654 said:


> you can always use Power Adjust 3 to power the pumps.
> 
> I have 4x PowerAdjust 3 + AQ powering everything. I ditched the RGB controller since I can't get it to work correctly.



I would but I need 3 of the fan headers for other purposes. I want to power the pumps independently and not together since I may want to run them at different speeds (2 loops).


----------



## Ashcroft

PuffinMyLye said:


> Yes, I had forgotten. I am going to power the LED strips (daisy chained) with one of the AQ6 fan headers.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yea I'm going to connect both pumps to my MoBo pump headers. The 4 AQ6 fan headers will be used for rad fans (2 sets), case fans (1 set), and LED strips (daisy chained into one header).



The twin 12V PWM power outputs are specifically designed for LED strips. They will show In Aquasuite and the Aquaero display as power outputs rather than as fans and don't take up a valuable fan port.


----------



## PuffinMyLye

Ashcroft said:


> The twin 12V PWM power outputs are specifically designed for LED strips. They will show In Aquasuite and the Aquaero display as power outputs rather than as fans and don't take up a valuable fan port.



Interesting. So I can connect my darkside LED strips to that instead leaving one free fan header. Not sure what I'll actually use that 4th fan header for but could be useful in the future.


----------



## yevonxxx

Ashcroft said:


> The twin 12V PWM power outputs are specifically designed for LED strips. They will show In Aquasuite and the Aquaero display as power outputs rather than as fans and don't take up a valuable fan port.


the only problem is that in commerce there is no connector able to fit them,
even the girth of the pins is bigger than normal pins so you cant just try to cut a fan header or something and make it fit..no way,
you can either soldier it§(and it's a non sense)or buy their plug,
or if you know a better way please tell me,i'm searching a workaround without any luck.


----------



## PuffinMyLye

yevonxxx said:


> Ashcroft said:
> 
> 
> 
> The twin 12V PWM power outputs are specifically designed for LED strips. They will show In Aquasuite and the Aquaero display as power outputs rather than as fans and don't take up a valuable fan port.
> 
> 
> 
> the only problem is that in commerce there is no connector able to fit them,
> even the girth of the pins is bigger than normal pins so you cant just try to cut a fan header or something and make it fit..no way,
> you can either soldier it§(and it's a non sense)or buy their plug,
> or if you know a better way please tell me,i'm searching a workaround without any luck.
Click to expand...


So the Darkside connect cable won't fit?


----------



## yevonxxx

PuffinMyLye said:


> So the Darkside connect cable won't fit?


i don't use that brand cable so have no idea,
but i can tell you for sure that normal fan header pin holes are smaller and the pin of that connector simply wont fit,
if you look closely at this pic you'll see how fat they are compared to the closer normal fan pins.


----------



## PuffinMyLye

yevonxxx said:


> PuffinMyLye said:
> 
> 
> 
> So the Darkside connect cable won't fit?
> 
> 
> 
> i don't use that brand cable so have no idea,
> but i can tell you for sure that normal fan header pin holes are smaller and the pin of that connector simply wont fit,
> if you look closely at this pic you'll see how fat they are compared to the closer normal fan pins.
Click to expand...

I have an adapter to convert the 2 pin to a 3 pin fan connector. But I'd prefer to use the headers meant for LED strips so I'll test it.


----------



## Revan654

yevonxxx said:


> i don't use that brand cable so have no idea,
> but i can tell you for sure that normal fan header pin holes are smaller and the pin of that connector simply wont fit,
> if you look closely at this pic you'll see how fat they are compared to the closer normal fan pins.


Actually they fit, Atlease Molex Fan connectors do (Ramp Only). Most OEM still use 2510, Where Molex uses 2695.




















PuffinMyLye said:


> I would but I need 3 of the fan headers for other purposes. I want to power the pumps independently and not together since I may want to run them at different speeds (2 loops).


Not sure what pump you have but, The Aqua-Computer aquabus version if there connected via USB & Aquabus (Splitty9) you can run them separate. I have dual pumps and I can pump them separately.


----------



## PuffinMyLye

Revan654 said:


> Actually they fit, Atlease Molex Fan connectors do (Ramp Only). Most OEM still use 2510, Where Molex uses 2695.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Not sure what pump you have but, The Aqua-Computer aquabus version if there connected via USB & Aquabus (Splitty9) you can run them separate. I have dual pumps and I can pump them separately.



Unfortunately the Aquabus version was sold out everywhere when I was shopping. So I had to go with the standard PWM version.


----------



## Revan654

PuffinMyLye said:


> Unfortunately the Aquabus version was sold out everywhere when I was shopping.


Right now it's EOL.


----------



## Ashcroft

PuffinMyLye said:


> So the Darkside connect cable won't fit?



You really need to use the specific connectors that Aquacomputer sell for them
https://shop.aquacomputer.de/product_info.php?products_id=1629
The connector has screw contacts for bare wires so you cut off the connector that is on the LED strip and bare the wires then screw in the clamps to hold the wires securely.


----------



## MouSe-Gr

Hi

i have a Aquaero 6 LT
connected a PS-ON break on Relay 1 and 3 pins
set up emergency shutdown on a drop stream
in the emergency shutdown condition, chose Relay OFF
I turn off the pump and the computer turns off, but then turns on again
put Relay 10s, same thing
in bios setting: on when power is turned off
what's the problem, why does the computer turn on again?

PSU Seasonic Prime 1000W
mainboard ASRock X299 Taici XE

thanks


----------



## Shoggy

Does it also turn on again if you cut the power supply manually? If so it is very likely a problem of the mainboard. If I remember correctly some user already reported that this will not work for some mainboards because they seem to ignore the power settings from the BIOS.


----------



## MouSe-Gr

yes, you are right, when you turn on the power manually, the computer will still turn on


----------



## Spin Cykle

Quick question! 

I have a Swiftech MCP655-B pictured below and I’d like to run the pump off my AQ6 LT. 










The pump only has 12v power via molex and a red dial on the bottom of the pump to control speed. 

Can I re-pin the power connector to a 3pin fan connection and power the 12v pump off one of my fan headers on the AQ6 LT? 

Listed below is the only information I could find for power draw on my pump. I’m concerned about start up power draw though. 










My AQ6 LT has 5 - Gentle Typhoon AP15’s (1850 rpm) on Channel 1. And 3 Gentle Typhoon AP15’s on Channel 2. 

I’d like to run the pump and control it’s speed via a voltage controller on channel 3! 

Can I do this? Or do I need to buy a power adjust 3?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro


----------



## GTXJackBauer

I'm not 100% sure but I think you might be able to set that pump's dial to 5 and use this cable (http://shop.aquacomputer.de/product_info.php?products_id=2345&language=en) to power and control the pump via voltage controls on the Aquaero. Just verify this first before trying.


----------



## Stiltz85

Hello all, I have a quick question.
I own an Aquaero 6 XT, I have not installed it yet but before I do, does anyone know what I do with the CPU PWM fan header on the motherboard? I see a PWM 1 and 2 to the left of the fan outputs on the Aquaero.
Do I plug it into one of those? I am assuming I will have to acquire a special cable if I do for that as it looks like a proprietary 2 pin adapter of some sort.
Most info I find on these is fairly vague or in Dutch and I am an English speaker/reader so I am having issues figuring this out.

Any info would be appreciated!


----------



## Spin Cykle

GTXJackBauer said:


> I'm not 100% sure but I think you might be able to set that pump's dial to 5 and use this cable (http://shop.aquacomputer.de/product_info.php?products_id=2345&language=en) to power and control the pump via voltage controls on the Aquaero. Just verify this first before trying.




Thanks! This is basically what I wanted to do except skip the cable extension and build my own 3 pin fan connector. 

Now the question is, will the AQ6 LT have a problem powering the pump?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro


----------



## war4peace

Stiltz85 said:


> Hello all, I have a quick question.
> I own an Aquaero 6 XT, I have not installed it yet but before I do, does anyone know what I do with the CPU PWM fan header on the motherboard? I see a PWM 1 and 2 to the left of the fan outputs on the Aquaero.
> Do I plug it into one of those? I am assuming I will have to acquire a special cable if I do for that as it looks like a proprietary 2 pin adapter of some sort.
> Most info I find on these is fairly vague or in Dutch and I am an English speaker/reader so I am having issues figuring this out.
> 
> Any info would be appreciated!


NO! Don't do that!
The PWM headers are 1A outputs, they will likely fry your mobo when connecting them as you wanted.
Aquaero has a RPM header, use a cable to connect the Aquaero RPM header to the motherboard CPU1 fan header. Personally i just configured the motherboard to ignore the RPM header data in the UEFI.


----------



## Stiltz85

war4peace said:


> NO! Don't do that!
> The PWM headers are 1A outputs, they will likely fry your mobo when connecting them as you wanted.
> Aquaero has a RPM header, use a cable to connect the Aquaero RPM header to the motherboard CPU1 fan header. Personally i just configured the motherboard to ignore the RPM header data in the UEFI.


Thanks, that's why I figured I would ask before connecting anything.


----------



## tCoLL

What's the best way to run 2 Aquacomputer D5 Pump with USB and Aquabus Interface? Currently have a 5LT but willing to upgrade.


----------



## zerophase

How may I display on the VISION the AQ 6 connected sensors on Linux?


----------



## jura11

tCoLL said:


> What's the best way to run 2 Aquacomputer D5 Pump with USB and Aquabus Interface? Currently have a 5LT but willing to upgrade.


Hi there 

You should be able connect both pumps through the Y splitter or if you have more Aquabus devices then SPLITTY9 is option and use Aquabus High speed port on AQ 5LT or 6LT etc 

Upgrade to 6LT I would do it, just for one reason alone is more PWM channels 

Hope this helps 

Thanks, Jura


----------



## jvillaveces

Stiltz85 said:


> Hello all, I have a quick question.
> I own an Aquaero 6 XT, I have not installed it yet but before I do, does anyone know what I do with the CPU PWM fan header on the motherboard? I see a PWM 1 and 2 to the left of the fan outputs on the Aquaero.
> Do I plug it into one of those? I am assuming I will have to acquire a special cable if I do for that as it looks like a proprietary 2 pin adapter of some sort.
> Most info I find on these is fairly vague or in Dutch and I am an English speaker/reader so I am having issues figuring this out.
> 
> Any info would be appreciated!


At the bottom right (looking from the back) of the AQ6 is a port labeled "rpm". If you run a cable from it to the motherboard cpu header it will send a simulated rpm signal.


----------



## Eusbwoa18

*Can an AQ6 run 2 D5 strong pumps?*

Is anyone successfully running D5 strong pumps on an AQ6? I want to run 2 D5 pumps and I have 2 free headers.


----------



## grumf

Hi All,

Does anyone know if this cable is able to supply RPM and PWM info to an Aquero 6 when connected to a fan header? I have a MCP655-PWM pump, which has two pin connection for RPM & PWM, however the linked cable is only a three pin connection to the fan header.


----------



## Shoggy

pgdeaner said:


> Is anyone successfully running D5 strong pumps on an AQ6? I want to run 2 D5 pumps and I have 2 free headers.


No problem if you connect one pump per header.



grumf said:


> Does anyone know if this cable is able to supply RPM and PWM info to an Aquero 6 when connected to a fan header? I have a MCP655-PWM pump, which has two pin connection for RPM & PWM, however the linked cable is only a three pin connection to the fan header.


This cable would be the right one for a regular pump that is controlled by the voltage. Since you pump has PWM you would take the power from the PSU and on the aquaero you just connect the 2-pin connector with the RPM and PWM signal. The channel where you connect the pump must be changed to PWM control.


----------



## grumf

Shoggy said:


> No problem if you connect one pump per header.
> 
> 
> This cable would be the right one for a regular pump that is controlled by the voltage. Since you pump has PWM you would take the power from the PSU and on the aquaero you just connect the 2-pin connector with the RPM and PWM signal. The channel where you connect the pump must be changed to PWM control.


Thanks, I thought that would be the case.


----------



## tCoLL

Can anyone provide any insight on when the D5 with usb and aquabus will be back in stock anywhere?


----------



## Aenra

@Shoggy you once mentioned an upcoming dual D5 pump top design.. is that still an ongoing process or have you guys stopped it altogether?

And my apologies if this old news.


----------



## outofmyheadyo

Is it possible to let the watertemperature control my fanspeed with the Aquaero 6 Pro ? I looked around in the Aquasuite software, but I didnt see anything where I could do something like that. Would be nice if I could set the curve myself, like at what temperature my fans hit what speed.


----------



## jura11

outofmyheadyo said:


> Is it possible to let the watertemperature control my fanspeed with the Aquaero 6 Pro ? I looked around in the Aquasuite software, but I didnt see anything where I could do something like that. Would be nice if I could set the curve myself, like at what temperature my fans hit what speed.


This should be easy to set up, do you have installed or fitted water temperature sensor? 

Are you seeing this temperature sensor in Aquasuite? 

Regarding the setting the curve based on water temperature, go to the Controllers click on Add, I would suggest Curve controller, create own curve for fans,choose source like water temperature and fans select in Outputs 

Hope this helps 

Thanks, Jura


----------



## outofmyheadyo

Yes I have 4 temperature sensors, and OH MY that was exactly what I was looking for, thanks a bunch!


----------



## SlvrDragon50

This pertains more to Aquasuite and Farbwerks but hopefully I can get an answer. 

Planning on building a new loop with RGB fans. Considering going the Corsair RGB route or Phanteks Halos on my GTs. I don’t have mobo rgb so I have to use Farbwerks to control the RGB. Can Aquasuite do effects or is it only pulsating or single color? Are Phanteks Halos going to be compatible? Couldn’t figure out if they were common cathode or anode. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## tiefox

SlvrDragon50 said:


> This pertains more to Aquasuite and Farbwerks but hopefully I can get an answer.
> 
> Planning on building a new loop with RGB fans. Considering going the Corsair RGB route or Phanteks Halos on my GTs. I don’t have mobo rgb so I have to use Farbwerks to control the RGB. Can Aquasuite do effects or is it only pulsating or single color? Are Phanteks Halos going to be compatible? Couldn’t figure out if they were common cathode or anode.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


I have regular halos (not the new digital ones) being controlled by a farbwer, I had to build a small custom adapter as the rgb pinout does not match, but it was pretty easy and now the run fine, what effects you have mind? It can do somethings like change color based on temperature and etc, I haven’t played with the options yet.


----------



## SlvrDragon50

tiefox said:


> I have regular halos (not the new digital ones) being controlled by a farbwer, I had to build a small custom adapter as the rgb pinout does not match, but it was pretty easy and now the run fine, what effects you have mind? It can do somethings like change color based on temperature and etc, I haven’t played with the options yet.


Ah, that's what I was suspecting... I'm leaning heavily towards the Corsair now as I don't currently plan on implementing multiple AC sensors. What do you mean by regular halos though? I thought there was only one generation of halos (plastic and metal versions). If I had RGB on my mobo this would be so much easier to decide 

I was just hoping to get synced fan effects so maybe a sweeping fan 1 -> fan 2 -> fan 3 fade. I know the Phanteks aren't addressable so you can't get sweeping colors like in the Corsairs.


----------



## tiefox

SlvrDragon50 said:


> Ah, that's what I was suspecting... I'm leaning heavily towards the Corsair now as I don't currently plan on implementing multiple AC sensors. What do you mean by regular halos though? I thought there was only one generation of halos (plastic and metal versions). If I had RGB on my mobo this would be so much easier to decide
> 
> I was just hoping to get synced fan effects so maybe a sweeping fan 1 -> fan 2 -> fan 3 fade. I know the Phanteks aren't addressable so you can't get sweeping colors like in the Corsairs.


Phanteks recently announced the digital halos with addressable leds. http://www.phanteks.com/HalosDigital.html

Those are not compatible with the Farbwerk. Phanteks released a specific controller for them


----------



## SlvrDragon50

tiefox said:


> Phanteks recently announced the digital halos with addressable leds. http://www.phanteks.com/HalosDigital.html
> 
> Those are not compatible with the Farbwerk. Phanteks released a specific controller for them


Ahh, thanks for that. Yea, I bought the Corsair HD120s. I'll get an Aquaero one day... when I have an actual job.


----------



## GTXJackBauer

SlvrDragon50 said:


> I'll get an Aquaero one day... when I have an actual job.


Just a heads up, don't forget there's a more affordable option called the Aquaero 6 LT which basically cuts the cost in half without a display but gets the same functioning features.


----------



## Shoggy

tCoLL said:


> Can anyone provide any insight on when the D5 with usb and aquabus will be back in stock anywhere?


Never again 
It will be replaced with a new variant later this summer (hopefully...).



Aenra said:


> @Shoggyyou once mentioned an upcoming dual D5 pump top design.. is that still an ongoing process or have you guys stopped it altogether?


Well, to my knowledge it was completely finished in CAD years ago but we did not even produce a single prototype of it and I am sure we never will because it was designed to be used in two 5.25 slots and most PC cases do not even have them these days.



SlvrDragon50 said:


> Planning on building a new loop with RGB fans. Considering going the Corsair RGB route or Phanteks Halos on my GTs. I don’t have mobo rgb so I have to use Farbwerks to control the RGB. Can Aquasuite do effects or is it only pulsating or single color? Are Phanteks Halos going to be compatible? Couldn’t figure out if they were common cathode or anode.


The farbwerk uses a common anode and works only with non-addressable RGB-LEDs. The pin assignment of farbwerk is:

Pin 1: +12 V
Pin 2: GND blue
Pin 3: GND red
Pin 3: GND green 

I don't know the pin assignment of the mentioned LEDs. Maybe you have to use some kind of adapter or you simply rewire it.


----------



## Abaidor

tiefox said:


> Phanteks recently announced the digital halos with addressable leds. http://www.phanteks.com/HalosDigital.html
> 
> Those are not compatible with the Farbwerk. Phanteks released a specific controller for them


I got one Lux Digital 140mm and it has more LEDs than the normal version (30) but did not have time to test yet. It works with Asus Aura Sync to but your motherboard needs to have an addressable LED header which is 5V (3pin) vs the 12V non-addressable ones.


----------



## Aenra

Shoggy said:


> Well, to my knowledge it was completely finished in CAD years ago but we did not even produce a single prototype of it and I am sure we never will because it was designed to be used in two 5.25 slots



Ah, O.K., i somehow thought it was to be an 'external'(?) (how would you call it?) dual pump top/volute, not a bay one.
Should you ever plan for one of those, by all means let us know, lol
And thanks for replying


----------



## tCoLL

Shoggy said:


> Never again
> It will be replaced with a new variant later this summer (hopefully...).


well damn, I bought one on amazon about 2 weeks ago and started using it, hoping to be able to expand to dual loops in about a month when my caselabs case gets in. Now that plan is ruined and I've wasted $100 on a pump...


----------



## SlvrDragon50

GTXJackBauer said:


> Just a heads up, don't forget there's a more affordable option called the Aquaero 6 LT which basically cuts the cost in half without a display but gets the same functioning features.


Yea, I considered the Aquaero 6 LT, but it's all the other sensors that I want to get that would run up the cost!  I'll slowly upgrade my rig over time.


----------



## Barefooter

outofmyheadyo said:


> Is it possible to let the watertemperature control my fanspeed with the Aquaero 6 Pro ? I looked around in the Aquasuite software, but I didnt see anything where I could do something like that. Would be nice if I could set the curve myself, like at what temperature my fans hit what speed.


In addition to what Jura said, you can set up a virtual sensor using the delta between the ambient air temperature and water temperature, and then use that virtual sensor to base your curve on.

The advantage of this is that your curve works the same as your ambient temps vary from Winter and Summer months.


----------



## WhellchairNinja

I have lost my MPS flow sensor on the aquabus, connects and reads fine on USB.

Aquabus goes Aquaero->Farbwerk->MPS


Farbwerk works as is should.

help?


EDIT: I noobed this one, did not pull the powercord long enough after updating firmware(s).


----------



## war4peace

tCoLL said:


> well damn, I bought one on amazon about 2 weeks ago and started using it, hoping to be able to expand to dual loops in about a month when my caselabs case gets in. Now that plan is ruined and I've wasted $100 on a pump...


Just ebay it and lose maybe 30% of its value.
Or ebay (buy) an used one and gain 30% of a new one's value


----------



## zeroibis

tCoLL said:


> well damn, I bought one on amazon about 2 weeks ago and started using it, hoping to be able to expand to dual loops in about a month when my caselabs case gets in. Now that plan is ruined and I've wasted $100 on a pump...


Why would the plan be ruined? Even if you were installing pumps into the same loop they do not need to be identical. A new pump being invented or the pump you have no longer being sold has no effect on your pumps ability to operate...


----------



## tCoLL

war4peace said:


> Just ebay it and lose maybe 30% of its value.
> Or ebay (buy) an used one and gain 30% of a new one's value


I don't see any D5 with aquabus on ebay. 



zeroibis said:


> Why would the plan be ruined? Even if you were installing pumps into the same loop they do not need to be identical. A new pump being invented or the pump you have no longer being sold has no effect on your pumps ability to operate...


Because if I'm spending $1k+ on just watercooling stuff I think everything should match and have the same functionality.


----------



## Aenra

tCoLL said:


> Because if I'm spending $1k+ on just watercooling stuff I think everything should match and have the same functionality.



Then never do what you just did, buying only half of what you'll need, hoping the stars will once again align just because.. what? You'd like the other half to continue to exist in the future, just for you?
A.K.A. if you're spending 1K+ of your money just for cooling, you might want to start thinking it through.

That said, barring extreme circumstances (in terms of likelihood), you'll be able to control the old and the new model just fine. For multiple reasons. So it's gonna be O.K.


----------



## GTXJackBauer

zeroibis said:


> Why would the plan be ruined? Even if you were installing pumps into the same loop they do not need to be identical. A new pump being invented or the pump you have no longer being sold has no effect on your pumps ability to operate...


You usually want the same pumps in a loop otherwise you might be pushing one against the other. Two different pumps don't necessarily mean they'll run at the same speed on the same PWM signal for example. Sure you could dial them in to be the same speed but their tops/flow might be different from one another unless you put them both on a dual top. 

Lot's of variables at play hence why it's always best to use the same two pumps in serial for a loop.


----------



## zeroibis

GTXJackBauer said:


> You usually want the same pumps in a loop otherwise you might be pushing one against the other. Two different pumps don't necessarily mean they'll run at the same speed on the same PWM signal for example. Sure you could dial them in to be the same speed but their tops/flow might be different from one another unless you put them both on a dual top.
> 
> Lot's of variables at play hence why it's always best to use the same two pumps in serial for a loop.


It has been extensively tested over the years that you can have two pumps in a system and have one of them off or even running at half the output of the other. It will not damage anything and it will not have any negative effect. (assuming serial configuration) The two different pumps can also be placed wherever you want as long as there is no rick of running one of them dry. If one pump if off it will have some restriction obviously but the actual restriction is extremely low. 

If you search around there was a big article by martin about this years ago.

Now the speed issue via PWM signal could if you want them on the same channel and want to run lets say a pump half as powerful at full blast and the stronger pump at half speed or something. However, generally this would not matter as stated above it is not going to effect anything. Also if you get the new one you can just control it via USB or auquabus instead of pwm.


----------



## tCoLL

delete


----------



## tCoLL

Aenra said:


> Then never do what you just did, buying only half of what you'll need, hoping the stars will once again align just because.. what? You'd like the other half to continue to exist in the future, just for you?
> A.K.A. if you're spending 1K+ of your money just for cooling, you might want to start thinking it through.
> 
> That said, barring extreme circumstances (in terms of likelihood), you'll be able to control the old and the new model just fine. For multiple reasons. So it's gonna be O.K.


I wasn't planning on double loops in an SMA8 until I found my new GPUs didnt fit in my current setup.

Luckily they went back in stock briefly on amazon and I was able to snag a 2nd.


----------



## Tech22

Hello everyone, I have a quick question that I cannot find the answer to anywhere: What PWM spec does the Aquaero 6 and/or Splitty9 use (Intel PWM rev 1.3, possibly/hopefully)? Thank you.


----------



## Shoggy

aquaero 6 sticks to Rev. 1.3.

Splitty9 is just a simple splitter and has no ICs so it does not follow a specific specification.


----------



## Sithgear

Curious if anyone on here knows of a way to get a return from the USA to Germany without paying the ridiculous shipping fees?
I have been playing e-mail tag with both Aqua Computer and Aquatuning for a bit now, neither seem willing to get me an RMA return label so I can get my Aquaero unit replaced/repaired.

Copy of e-mail message to both Aqua Computer and Aquatuning:

_I purchased an Aquacomputer Aquaero 6 XT from Aquatuning on 02FEB2018 and am having issues with it. I finally got my computer built a couple of days ago, but I am currently receiving an error message on one of my fan headers. Header number 2 is giving me a fan overcurrent message. The other three work just fine (same set up of 4 Corsair ML120 Pro fans, connected with a 4 way, 4 pin pwm and connected to my PSU). When I move a different set of fans (working on it’s original header) to that header I keep getting that message. Is there a way to get this product to work properly, or do I have to RMA it?_

Both UPS and DHL want $140 - $190 to ship this.


----------



## iCrap

I just replaced my pump with a D5 Revo PWM. anyone know how to get it properly working with AQ6? If I put the preset value controller at 100% it reports around 4000rpm, 99% is 2164 RPM and anything below 99% is around 800RPM. Something is clearly not right....


----------



## Bartdude

iCrap said:


> I just replaced my pump with a D5 Revo PWM. anyone know how to get it properly working with AQ6? If I put the preset value controller at 100% it reports around 4000rpm, 99% is 2164 RPM and anything below 99% is around 800RPM. Something is clearly not right....


Is that a EK-D5 Revo? If so it should work fine, how do you have it connected? It should be setup on a fan header.


----------



## iCrap

Bartdude said:


> Is that a EK-D5 Revo? If so it should work fine, how do you have it connected? It should be setup on a fan header.


yes ek d5 revo. Its on a fan header and its set to PWM but it's not working correctly.


----------



## Bartdude

iCrap said:


> yes ek d5 revo. Its on a fan header and its set to PWM but it's not working correctly.


If i remember correctly you need to go into the Aquaero software, check that the fan header the pump is on has 100% power. If i rem correctly if it's setup as "Pre Defined Fan" the power is only on about 85%. Min power will only go down to 800rpm, not sure exactly why.


----------



## Aenra

Bartdude said:


> not sure exactly why.



Because it's (theoretically, by default) a fan and it needs to ensure it won't stop it withour your wanting it to. As it should


----------



## Aenra

Apologies for the double posting.
@Shoggy any redesign planned for the TR block? Considering TR+ being imminent, the platform selling a lot more than everyone expected, etc. etc.?


----------



## iCrap

Bartdude said:


> If i remember correctly you need to go into the Aquaero software, check that the fan header the pump is on has 100% power. If i rem correctly if it's setup as "Pre Defined Fan" the power is only on about 85%. Min power will only go down to 800rpm, not sure exactly why.


Yea i went to the Fans tab and clicked advanced settings, then PWM controlled. At the top it says voltage is full 12v. Im not sure what you mean about "pre defiend fan" though. Where is that?


----------



## SlvrDragon50

Sithgear said:


> Curious if anyone on here knows of a way to get a return from the USA to Germany without paying the ridiculous shipping fees?
> I have been playing e-mail tag with both Aqua Computer and Aquatuning for a bit now, neither seem willing to get me an RMA return label so I can get my Aquaero unit replaced/repaired.
> 
> Copy of e-mail message to both Aqua Computer and Aquatuning:
> 
> _I purchased an Aquacomputer Aquaero 6 XT from Aquatuning on 02FEB2018 and am having issues with it. I finally got my computer built a couple of days ago, but I am currently receiving an error message on one of my fan headers. Header number 2 is giving me a fan overcurrent message. The other three work just fine (same set up of 4 Corsair ML120 Pro fans, connected with a 4 way, 4 pin pwm and connected to my PSU). When I move a different set of fans (working on it’s original header) to that header I keep getting that message. Is there a way to get this product to work properly, or do I have to RMA it?_
> 
> Both UPS and DHL want $140 - $190 to ship this.


Use USPS. Though I am a little confused why you bought from overseas instead of PPCS?


----------



## iCrap

SlvrDragon50 said:


> Use USPS. Though I am a little confused why you bought from overseas instead of PPCS?


Maybe for RMA? I had to send mine back to Germany a while back. Use USPS, I think it was like $30-40


----------



## Bartdude

iCrap said:


> Yea i went to the Fans tab and clicked advanced settings, then PWM controlled. At the top it says voltage is full 12v. Im not sure what you mean about "pre defiend fan" though. Where is that?


I should have said "Pre-set Fan". So under fans check that power is set to max and min, then under controllers you'll find Pre-set Fan, that should be your pump. You can adjust the speed there.


----------



## Shoggy

Aenra said:


> @Shoggy any redesign planned for the TR block? Considering TR+ being imminent, the platform selling a lot more than everyone expected, etc. etc.?


It is ready since months but we had no time so far to produce it. The majority of our production capacity has been tied to a major order for some time. So far we still see not much demand for such blocks.


----------



## zeroibis

When the second gen TRs ship later this year there will likely be a new wave of fresh builds so I would expect a good bump in demand at that time.


----------



## Aenra

Shoggy said:


> It is ready since months but we had no time so far to produce it. The majority of our production capacity has been tied to a major order for some time. So far we still see not much demand for such blocks.



That looks awesome! Can we expect the usual iterations? Vision, non-Vision, etc? And of course, if you could keep us updated regarding launch, it would definitely be appreciated.
(i want to ask if the major order has to do with Corsair, but i can understand if you cannot comment on that yet)

Am really hoping you manage to have that block out in time for the TR+ launch. 
Now regarding demand, no offense O.K.? None whatsoever, honestly; but you would not see it anyway, not right now i mean; i wanted a TR block myself, first site i checked was yours, did some Google-ing, nope, no new plate, smaller surface (you even made a post about it in techpowerup). So immediately, i chose a competitor's block because they went and designed a new one, specifically _for_ this platform. I can assure you with absolute certainty that i wasn't the only one doing this. I know why you went the way you did, as a company, totally understand it, but the fact is it was probably the wrong decision; in retrospect, that is. Again, i can understand your approach given the circumstances at the time.


----------



## iCrap

iCrap said:


> I just replaced my pump with a D5 Revo PWM. anyone know how to get it properly working with AQ6? If I put the preset value controller at 100% it reports around 4000rpm, 99% is 2164 RPM and anything below 99% is around 800RPM. Something is clearly not right....


Anyone have any ideas on this? How do I get it to control properly? 

@Shoggy


----------



## valvehead

iCrap said:


> Anyone have any ideas on this? How do I get it to control properly?
> 
> @*Shoggy*


How old is that pump? If it's from the original batch of D5 PWM pumps then it lacks the required pullup resistance. You would need to add the Diva PWM mod.


----------



## iCrap

valvehead said:


> How old is that pump? If it's from the original batch of D5 PWM pumps then it lacks the required pullup resistance. You would need to add the Diva PWM mod.


Its brand new, I just got it like 2 days ago.


----------



## valvehead

iCrap said:


> Its brand new, I just got it like 2 days ago.


That's odd because the old ones should have been sold off long ago. :headscrat

The rapid falloff of RPM below 100% PWM is a symptom of weak or absent pullup resistance on the PWM line. One thing you could try to verify if you have a pullup problem is to connect one or more PWM fans to the same PWM fan channel as the pump. If you end up with better pump control with fans sharing the PWM channel, then that would indicate that the pump needs stronger pullup.


----------



## iCrap

valvehead said:


> That's odd because the old ones should have been sold off long ago. :headscrat
> 
> The rapid falloff of RPM below 100% PWM is a symptom of weak or absent pullup resistance on the PWM line. One thing you could try to verify if you have a pullup problem is to connect one or more PWM fans to the same PWM fan channel as the pump. If you end up with better pump control with fans sharing the PWM channel, then that would indicate that the pump needs stronger pullup.


I checked my parts pile and I don't have a PWM fan splitter  I guess I have to do that Diva mod? Seems like that has to be the issue..


----------



## zipeldiablo

Hey guys, quick question about the aquaero.

I would have a temp sensor below my radiator (external, to get air temp) and a temp sensor inside my loop also below the radiator.
The idea would be to adjust my pwn fans (plugged in the radiator, i have 2*4 120mm fan, each stack of 4 fans plugged into a 4-way pwn extender) according the the delta between the two sensors.

If i were to use a aquaero device to do that, would an aquaero 5 LT or an aquaero 4 be enough? Also would those devices be compatible with windows 10 (my motherboard is an asus rampage V extreme)

Is there a possibility to easily remove the lcd of the aquaero 4?

And last but not the least, can an aquaero LT be fixed into the case without doing anything sketchy like drilling holes or occupy a 5.25 bay ?
It shouldn't be in contact with any metal right?


----------



## zeroibis

zipeldiablo said:


> Hey guys, quick question about the aquaero.
> 
> I would have a temp sensor below my radiator (external, to get air temp) and a temp sensor inside my loop also below the radiator.
> The idea would be to adjust my pwn fans (plugged in the radiator, i have 2*4 120mm fan, each stack of 4 fans plugged into a 4-way pwn extender) according the the delta between the two sensors.
> 
> If i were to use a aquaero device to do that, would an aquaero 5 LT or an aquaero 4 be enough? Also would those devices be compatible with windows 10 (my motherboard is an asus rampage V extreme)
> 
> Is there a possibility to easily remove the lcd of the aquaero 4?
> 
> And last but not the least, can an aquaero LT be fixed into the case without doing anything sketchy like drilling holes or occupy a 5.25 bay ?
> It shouldn't be in contact with any metal right?


Not sure about the 4 but the 5 should be fine. The features are all in the software which is the same for all of them. You just create a virtual temp sensor using the data and formula you want from the two real sensors you have. To connect to your motherboard you will need a usb 2.0 port. 

It will work on windows 10.

If you see the first page of my build you can get an idea for mounting: 
http://www.overclock.net/forum/380-case-labs/1635072-caselabs-s8s-build-megumin.html

Many just attach Velcro directly to the back of it but I was weary of the length of the pins in the back and wanted something more secure so I took an old drive bay cover, painted it black and drilled holes in it and mounted it to that and then Velcroed that to the case.


----------



## zipeldiablo

zeroibis said:


> Not sure about the 4 but the 5 should be fine. The features are all in the software which is the same for all of them. You just create a virtual temp sensor using the data and formula you want from the two real sensors you have. To connect to your motherboard you will need a usb 2.0 port.
> 
> It will work on windows 10.
> 
> If you see the first page of my build you can get an idea for mounting:
> http://www.overclock.net/forum/380-case-labs/1635072-caselabs-s8s-build-megumin.html
> 
> Many just attach Velcro directly to the back of it but I was weary of the length of the pins in the back and wanted something more secure so I took an old drive bay cover, painted it black and drilled holes in it and mounted it to that and then Velcroed that to the case.


To be honest i am worry about the pins in back touching metal and creating a short, i know it can happen on some boards, don't know if it can on the aquaero though.
I see you have an additional passive heatsink on it, is that mandatory ?
I like the idea of using an old drive bay cover, must have some lying around somewhere

ps : would be kind enough to share the name of the manga ? 

ps bis : what i am really curious about is your pump actually, it seems that it has integrated sensor temp with a port for an additionnal sensor AND is compatible with aquasuite, so it can do everything the aquaero does (i assume aquasuite can modify the speed of fans connected directly to the motherboard aswell ?) or i am missing something?


----------



## GTXJackBauer

I'd recommend the Aquaero 6 LT over the 5.


----------



## Nikos4Life

Hi there!

I am trying to find how to connect 3 Aquaeros all together 2 slaves and 1 as master. I could not find the way to do so. I had read something about temperature sensor 8 or so. But can not figured it out yet, what is the full procedure to connect them successfully? 

(1 x A6 XT + 2 x A6 LT)

Also do have 2 PowerAdjust 3 Ultra to connect but first I would like to know how to do the Aquaeros first.

Thank you very much!

Regards,
Nikos


----------



## Barefooter

Nikos4Life said:


> Hi there!
> 
> I am trying to find how to connect 3 Aquaeros all together 2 slaves and 1 as master. I could not find the way to do so. I had read something about temperature sensor 8 or so. But can not figured it out yet, what is the full procedure to connect them successfully?
> 
> (1 x A6 XT + 2 x A6 LT)
> 
> Also do have 2 PowerAdjust 3 Ultra to connect but first I would like to know how to do the Aquaeros first.
> 
> Thank you very much!
> 
> Regards,
> Nikos


I covered how to add one Aquaero LT as a slave unit to an Aquaero XT on this post on my build log.

That should get you going.


----------



## Shoggy

Nikos4Life said:


> I am trying to find how to connect 3 Aquaeros all together 2 slaves and 1 as master. I could not find the way to do so. I had read something about temperature sensor 8 or so. But can not figured it out yet, what is the full procedure to connect them successfully?


At first you have to flash the slave firmware to both LT devices. This can be done in the system tab of each device. On one of them you have to place a jumper on temperature sensor port #8. If you have no jumper on hand you can also use a crumpled piece of aluminium foil. This jumper will tell the aquaero to use a different aquabus ID range.

When you connect both to the aquaero you can no longer attach a poweradjust via aquabus. The two slave devices will already use the eight fan slots that can be accessed via aquabus.


----------



## zeroibis

zipeldiablo said:


> To be honest i am worry about the pins in back touching metal and creating a short, i know it can happen on some boards, don't know if it can on the aquaero though.
> I see you have an additional passive heatsink on it, is that mandatory ?
> I like the idea of using an old drive bay cover, must have some lying around somewhere
> 
> ps : would be kind enough to share the name of the manga ?
> 
> ps bis : what i am really curious about is your pump actually, it seems that it has integrated sensor temp with a port for an additionnal sensor AND is compatible with aquasuite, so it can do everything the aquaero does (i assume aquasuite can modify the speed of fans connected directly to the motherboard aswell ?) or i am missing something?


The additional heatsink is not required at all on the 6. You may need or want it on the older ones depending on your load. In my case it is there to look nice as the part is next to a window. 

Megumin is from Kono Subarashii Sekai ni Shukufuku o!

As for the pump you are correct, I get my internal water temp from it. You can also you it to calculate an estimated flow rate if you buy support for it. I can not remember if you need to pay extra for the external temp sensor part to work or not because I connect my external sensor to the AQ6 directly. You can use it to control fan speeds in fact I believe I talk about that toward the end of my build log where I connect not a fan but instead an LED light strip and use the fan header on the pump to control the brightness. 

As for fans connected to the motherboard to my knowledge it can not control those fans.


----------



## zipeldiablo

zeroibis said:


> The additional heatsink is not required at all on the 6. You may need or want it on the older ones depending on your load. In my case it is there to look nice as the part is next to a window.
> 
> Megumin is from Kono Subarashii Sekai ni Shukufuku o!
> 
> As for the pump you are correct, I get my internal water temp from it. You can also you it to calculate an estimated flow rate if you buy support for it. I can not remember if you need to pay extra for the external temp sensor part to work or not because I connect my external sensor to the AQ6 directly. You can use it to control fan speeds in fact I believe I talk about that toward the end of my build log where I connect not a fan but instead an LED light strip and use the fan header on the pump to control the brightness.
> 
> As for fans connected to the motherboard to my knowledge it can not control those fans.


Thanks for the anime 

Hum, didn't have enough money for the aquaero 6, it was already too much for my bank account to take the 5 ahah
I checked with aquacomputer support and thing is everything is processed on the aquaero hardware (because what's the point to have a cpu right?) so to calculate the delta from multiple sensors like i wanted to do i had no choice but to buy it aswell.
That's also the same about fans, aquasuite can read datas from external sources but cannot do anything with it, it's just a pretty GUI.

Hum yes i believe you do ? but i don't remember if you posted pictures of it. So no need for rgb header on the motherboard? that's nice


----------



## pthomson

4WDBenio said:


> So what's the news on the new Poweradjust 3 USB vs the Older Poweradjust 2?


I wasn't aware of this device, but managed to find it on newegg. Would it be able to power a SPLITTY9 hooked up to 8 noiseblocker nb-eloop b12-3 1900 rpm fans? Or, is it mainly intended for pumps?

Also, I had the same question regarding the Alphacool VPP655-PWM: 



> Does anyone know if this cable is able to supply RPM and PWM info to an Aquero 6 when connected to a fan header? I have a MCP655-PWM pump, which has two pin connection for RPM & PWM, however the linked cable is only a three pin connection to the fan header.





Shoggy said:


> No problem if you connect one pump per header.
> 
> 
> This cable would be the right one for a regular pump that is controlled by the voltage. Since you pump has PWM you would take the power from the PSU and on the aquaero you just connect the 2-pin connector with the RPM and PWM signal. The channel where you connect the pump must be changed to PWM control.


Can someone help me understand what is meant by the 2 pin connector and how to change the channel to PWM? I have the 5LT...


----------



## zipeldiablo

Guys, wondering if the passive heatsink is mandatory for the aquaero LT ?
I will put in just in front of a 200mm fan (i heard the aquaero can become quite hot) in the meantime, the only heatsink i could find was for the aquaero 6 :/


----------



## GTXJackBauer

zipeldiablo said:


> Guys, wondering if the passive heatsink is mandatory for the aquaero LT ?
> I will put in just in front of a 200mm fan (i heard the aquaero can become quite hot) in the meantime, the only heatsink i could find was for the aquaero 6 :/


If its the AQ 5 LT, sure I'd recommend a heatsink but if it's a AQ 6 LT, I wouldnt' but you could put on just why not. I have and my operating temps are great.


----------



## zipeldiablo

GTXJackBauer said:


> If its the AQ 5 LT, sure I'd recommend a heatsink but if it's a AQ 6 LT, I wouldnt' but you could put on just why not. I have and my operating temps are great.


It's a 5LT, didn't have the money for the new one 
And i just saw that there is only one fan pwn header.
I have 8 pwn fans separated with two 4-fans splitter, don't know what i will do...

edit : i found something there : http://www.overclock.net/forum/61-w...wm-channel-aquacomputer-aquaero-5-xt-pro.html
Will that actually work? 
It would be like

4fans > 4ways splitter connected to psu > 3way splitter with the 4pins > aquaero pwn header
4fans > 4way splitter connected to psu >>

Ek support told me that even though the fans will draw power from the psu they will also draw power from the motherboard, in that case they will draw power from the aquaero, i hope it is enough :/


----------



## Nikos4Life

Barefooter said:


> I covered how to add one Aquaero LT as a slave unit to an Aquaero XT on this post on my build log.
> 
> That should get you going.



Sir you have hell of a build, congratulations it took me sometime to get it all read but enjoyed it so much.
I am building something as crazy as your build but it does not require so much modding. I do have some question after all. Please if you do not mind read below. 



Shoggy said:


> At first you have to flash the slave firmware to both LT devices. This can be done in the system tab of each device. On one of them you have to place a jumper on temperature sensor port #8. If you have no jumper on hand you can also use a crumpled piece of aluminium foil. This jumper will tell the aquaero to use a different aquabus ID range.
> 
> When you connect both to the aquaero you can no longer attach a poweradjust via aquabus. The two slave devices will already use the eight fan slots that can be accessed via aquabus.


Thanks for both of your responses I will try to give more information about the hardware I do have to connect to the Aquaeros:

Monitoring Hardware: 

- 3 x Aquaero 6 (1 x XT Pro / 2 x LT) (Heatsinks installed on all of them)
- 2 x Flow sensor high flow USB
- 1 x Kryos Next Vision (CPU Block)
- 37 x EK Vardar FE140 2500 rpm Fan
- 2 x EK-XTOP Revo Dual D5 PWM Serial
- 2 x EK-XTOP Revo D5 PWM Serial

Along with the Aquaeros I have the following:
- 2 x PowerAdjust 3 Ultra (Both with Heatsink)
- 4 x SPLITTY9

I have made this diagram for better understanding:











How do you suggest I should distribute the devices?

Kind regards,
Nikos


----------



## Barefooter

Nikos4Life said:


> Sir you have hell of a build, congratulations it took me sometime to get it all read but enjoyed it so much.
> I am building something as crazy as your build but it does not require so much modding. I do have some question after all. Please if you do not mind read below.
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for both of your responses I will try to give more information about the hardware I do have to connect to the Aquaeros:
> 
> Monitoring Hardware:
> 
> - 3 x Aquaero 6 (1 x XT Pro / 2 x LT) (Heatsinks installed on all of them)
> - 2 x Flow sensor high flow USB
> - 1 x Kryos Next Vision (CPU Block)
> - 37 x EK Vardar FE140 2500 rpm Fan
> - 2 x EK-XTOP Revo Dual D5 PWM Serial
> - 2 x EK-XTOP Revo D5 PWM Serial
> 
> Along with the Aquaeros I have the following:
> - 2 x PowerAdjust 3 Ultra (Both with Heatsink)
> - 4 x SPLITTY9
> 
> I have made this diagram for better understanding:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> How do you suggest I should distribute the devices?
> 
> Kind regards,
> Nikos


 
Shoggy is the real expert here, but until he replies I'll give it my best shot.


You have five groups of fans, but only list four Splitty9s. I would put each of your five groups of fans on it's own Splitty9, then run power and ground from the power supply to the Splitty9s, then put each Splitty9 RPM and PWM wires to it's own channel on the Aquaeros. Your groups of fans draw way more current than a single channel from the Aquaero can power. It will just give you an over current warning and shut the channel down.


It looks like you are going to have two loops and two pumps per loop. If that's the case then again power and ground from the power supply, then you can combine the PWM wires to one channel on the Aquaero, but only run one RPM wire from each set of pumps back to the Aquaero or it will mess up the signal.


Good luck and hope you are going to share your work on OCN I'd love to see it :thumb:


----------



## zipeldiablo

Well, the build is gonna be build today.
I received an aqualis with one of the fixation clip broken out of the box.
Kinda disappointed, that's a poor qa right there !


----------



## pthomson

Managed to get everything up in running today with the Aquaero 5LT today, but need some help with troubleshooting why my fans seem to cycle to 100% at random. 

I'm running 8 fans distributed between a SPLITTY9 and 2 Y cables. I don't have the heatsink installed and I think I'm running into overheating issues but wanted to be sure. The channels with the most load seem to be cycling between my fan curve (set to water temp input) and 100%. 

I wanted to know if this is normal when on the AQ5LT?See pics below....


----------



## GTXJackBauer

pthomson said:


> Managed to get everything up in running today with the Aquaero 5LT today, but need some help with troubleshooting why my fans seem to cycle to 100% at random.
> 
> I'm running 8 fans distributed between a SPLITTY9 and 2 Y cables. I don't have the heatsink installed and I think I'm running into overheating issues but wanted to be sure. The channels with the most load seem to be cycling between my fan curve (set to water temp input) and 100%.
> 
> I wanted to know if this is normal when on the AQ5LT?See pics below....


As you can see, it's already giving you a thermal warning on those last two channels. Make sure you aren't going over the channels limits and keeping tabs on the thermals.

From the AQ5/6 Manual manual.



> 4.3. Connector “Fan 1/2/3/4”
> 
> Voltage regulated fan outputs with speed signal processing.
> 
> aquaero 5:
> Maximum output power is 19.8 W (1.65 A at 12 V) for each channel. Maximum
> power is dynamically limited through temperature monitoring and will
> decrease considerably at lower output voltages. In case an output amplifier
> temperature rises to ca. 95 °C, the output is set to 100 % power. After cooling
> down to ca. 70 °C, normal operation will resume. If the temperature rises
> to ca. 100 °C, the output will be permanently disabled. To reactivate the
> output, the aquaero (or the complete PC) has to be disconnected from
> power for a short period of time. Despite this overload protection, the fan
> outputs are not short-circuit proof!
> Special feature “Fan 4”: This connector can be used Special feature “Fan 4”: for conventional fans
> or PWM controlled fans. For PWM fans, select “Outputs” “Fans” “Fan → →
> 4” from the menu and set “Control mode” to “PWM controlled”.
> 
> aquaero 6:
> Maximum current is 2.5 A per output independent of output voltage, resulting
> in a maximum power of 30 W at 12 V. Outputs will be switched of if
> amplifier temperatures reach a critical level and will automatically be reactivated
> when cooled down. If an output current of 3 A is exceeded, the output
> will be permanently disabled. To reactivate the output, the aquaero (or
> the complete PC) has to be disconnected from power for a short period of
> time. The fan outputs are short-circuit proof.
> All fan connectors can be used for conventional fans or PWM controlled
> fans. For PWM fans, select “Outputs” “Fans” “Fan → → 1-4” from the menu
> and set “Control mode” to “PWM controlled”.


----------



## pthomson

GTXJackBauer said:


> As you can see, it's already giving you a thermal warning on those last two channels. Make sure you aren't going over the channels limits and keeping tabs on the thermals.
> 
> From the AQ5/6 Manual manual.


Thanks Jack. As far as I know I'm within the load limits. See attached


----------



## VeritronX

Just came across the Aquacomputer VISION Touch today and was pretty excited until I worked out that the functionality I was imagining with it doesn't seem to be possible.. It doesn't look like you can set the buttons on it to change settings on an aquaero, like changing the PID control set point or toggling if a fan channel is allowed to turn off =( 

I've avoided getting an aquareo so far because the pc's I have either don't have a good place to put them or just don't have enough room (ncase) but I'd make room for an LT somewhere if I could view sensors and change settings on it using the vision touch. I guess I'll just stick to poweradjust ultra's with a static config =\


----------



## GTXJackBauer

pthomson said:


> Thanks Jack. As far as I know I'm within the load limits. See attached


Have you tried using less fans just to test it out? If it still warns, I'd say you probably have a defective unit.


----------



## pthomson

GTXJackBauer said:


> Have you tried using less fans just to test it out? If it still warns, I'd say you probably have a defective unit.


Thanks again. I have reduced it down to three fans on channel 4 from the SPLITTY and only 1 fan on channel 3 and it still warns. The fans are NB E Loop B12.3's which I don't think pull that much current.


----------



## pthomson

Update - It seems Jack was correct. I disconnected all but 2 fans from the SPLITTY with only 2 fans per channel and I stopped getting the thermal errors. Is this normal with a 5LT without the heatsink? I still need to connect my PWM pump to the device so I'm leaning towards a 6LT now


----------



## Ashcroft

pthomson said:


> Update - It seems Jack was correct. I disconnected all but 2 fans from the SPLITTY with only 2 fans per channel and I stopped getting the thermal errors. Is this normal with a 5LT without the heatsink? I still need to connect my PWM pump to the device so I'm leaning towards a 6LT now /forum/images/smilies/frown.gif



As you have discovered there is a difference between the maximum power the device is rated for and and what it can handle before thermal protection kicks in.

The Aq5 uses resistance based voltage control which means that as voltage is lowered from 12V it gets rid of the extra power as heat. So, the lower the volts the more heat. The rated capacity of the Aq5 is at 12V. As you lower from 12V the heat builds substantially and the current the unit can provide without getting too hot drops rapidly. To protect itself the Aq5 increases the voltage output to 12v til temps drop, then lowers voltage to the setting. It will keep cycling from the set voltage to 12v unless better cooling is provided. It is all a little counter intuitive I know.
With a heat sink or water block the amount of current you can draw at low volts is increased.

The NB eloop are particularly power hungry fans as I know from experience using them with an Aq5. I had trouble using more than 6 of the 12.3 1800rpm models and the 2200rpms are even worse.
Naturally you mainly want these high speed fans running at lower speeds most of the time which means the Aq running hot a lot of the time. Effective cooling is vital for the Aq5

The Aq6 works the opposite of the Aq5 in that as voltage is lowered it actually runs cooler because it uses a different system to lower voltage from the 12V supply. Along with that the extra PWM fan channels mean that when using PWM fans the unit just has to put out 12v the whole time. 
The Aq6 is a far better device all round, for PWM and voltage controlled fans.


----------



## GTXJackBauer

Ashcroft said:


> As you have discovered there is a difference between the maximum power the device is rated for and and what it can handle before thermal protection kicks in.
> 
> The Aq5 uses resistance based voltage control which means that as voltage is lowered from 12V it gets rid of the extra power as heat. So, the lower the volts the more heat. The rated capacity of the Aq5 is at 12V. As you lower from 12V the heat builds substantially and the current the unit can provide without getting too hot drops rapidly. To protect itself the Aq5 increases the voltage output to 12v til temps drop, then lowers voltage to the setting. It will keep cycling from the set voltage to 12v unless better cooling is provided. It is all a little counter intuitive I know.
> With a heat sink or water block the amount of current you can draw at low volts is increased.
> 
> The NB eloop are particularly power hungry fans as I know from experience using them with an Aq5. I had trouble using more than 6 of the 12.3 1800rpm models and the 2200rpms are even worse.
> Naturally you mainly want these high speed fans running at lower speeds most of the time which means the Aq running hot a lot of the time. Effective cooling is vital for the Aq5
> 
> The Aq6 works the opposite of the Aq5 in that as voltage is lowered it actually runs cooler because it uses a different system to lower voltage from the 12V supply. Along with that the extra PWM fan channels mean that when using PWM fans the unit just has to put out 12v the whole time.
> The Aq6 is a far better device all round, for PWM and voltage controlled fans.


In great detail what is happening to your AQ5 pthomson. 

I would recommend on selling that AQ5 and grabbing a AQ6.


----------



## pthomson

Ashcroft said:


> As you have discovered there is a difference between the maximum power the device is rated for and and what it can handle before thermal protection kicks in.
> 
> The Aq5 uses resistance based voltage control which means that as voltage is lowered from 12V it gets rid of the extra power as heat. So, the lower the volts the more heat. The rated capacity of the Aq5 is at 12V. As you lower from 12V the heat builds substantially and the current the unit can provide without getting too hot drops rapidly. To protect itself the Aq5 increases the voltage output to 12v til temps drop, then lowers voltage to the setting. It will keep cycling from the set voltage to 12v unless better cooling is provided. It is all a little counter intuitive I know.
> With a heat sink or water block the amount of current you can draw at low volts is increased.
> 
> The NB eloop are particularly power hungry fans as I know from experience using them with an Aq5. I had trouble using more than 6 of the 12.3 1800rpm models and the 2200rpms are even worse.
> Naturally you mainly want these high speed fans running at lower speeds most of the time which means the Aq running hot a lot of the time. Effective cooling is vital for the Aq5
> 
> The Aq6 works the opposite of the Aq5 in that as voltage is lowered it actually runs cooler because it uses a different system to lower voltage from the 12V supply. Along with that the extra PWM fan channels mean that when using PWM fans the unit just has to put out 12v the whole time.
> The Aq6 is a far better device all round, for PWM and voltage controlled fans.





GTXJackBauer said:


> In great detail what is happening to your AQ5 pthomson.
> 
> I would recommend on selling that AQ5 and grabbing a AQ6.


Thanks guys for the great explanation and help. I'm going to order an AQ6 LT today.


----------



## Shoggy

zipeldiablo said:


> Well, the build is gonna be build today.
> I received an aqualis with one of the fixation clip broken out of the box.
> Kinda disappointed, that's a poor qa right there !


I assume you are T. N. who also contacted us by e-mail. As explained there your photos show that also the pump's cover is already plugged into the reservoir which means this must be a used item since this part belongs to the pump and not the reservoir. The latching lugs are relatively robust and will not easily break off. I assume that a customer has removed the reservoir with force, broke off the latching lug while doing so and then returned it.

Since I can not find you in our system it seems you got the reservoir from somewhere else. Please get in touch with the shop.


----------



## zipeldiablo

Shoggy said:


> I assume you are T. N. who also contacted us by e-mail. As explained there your photos show that also the pump's cover is already plugged into the reservoir which means this must be a used item since this part belongs to the pump and not the reservoir. The latching lugs are relatively robust and will not easily break off. I assume that a customer has removed the reservoir with force, broke off the latching lug while doing so and then returned it.
> 
> Since I can not find you in our system it seems you got the reservoir from somewhere else. Please get in touch with the shop.


Yup that's me.
At first i was wondering if it was normal but i figured it was broken.
(i answered your email btw).
The cover of the pump was mine, i removed the reservoir from the pump to see why it clipped only on one side and didn't realized that if i turned the reservoir while removing it that would unclip the pump's cover aswell.

But yeah it seems very sturdy, i don't get how someone could broke this, also there was no traces of wear whatsoever on the unit, it's brand new except the broken latching lug.

Good to know aquatuning is not related to aquacomputer though


----------



## Juris

Just picked up another Aquaero 6XT after my desoldering job fried my last one because I'm a complete idiot (thanks Shoggy for all the help in PM. You're a legend) and don't want to make anymore mistakes before hooking everything up.

Looking to hook up the XT to my Aquacomputer D5 Aquabus pump (41093) and an MPS Flow 400. Am I right in thinking this is the right config or are there better configs that offer more control.

MPS Flow > USB cable + alarm cable > D5 pump > aquabus cable > Aquaero 6 XT Aquabus High port

As its hitting summer in Ireland and my desk is facing the sun I'm also looking to control 3 external fans attached to an Aquaduct 360 grill I picked up which will go under the desk to cool myself. Grabbed a Splitty9 so am I right to attach the Splitty9 to one of the Aquaero fan headers with a standard 4 pin PWM header cable. Can I control the fans via the Xt's IR remote? Cheers.


----------



## tCoLL

Anyone have experience with the farbwerk? I am currently driving some white LED strips off my 5LT using the power outputs. My new build I would like to drive some RGBW strips off a farbwerk. The white of RGB is unsatisfactory to me, which is why I went pure white with my last build. Anything in particular I should look for in a RGBW 5050 strip? Where can I purchase terminals and connectors for these inputs if I'd like to make custom cables for them?


----------



## Barefooter

tCoLL said:


> Anyone have experience with the farbwerk? I am currently driving some white LED strips off my 5LT using the power outputs. My new build I would like to drive some RGBW strips off a farbwerk. The white of RGB is unsatisfactory to me, which is why I went pure white with my last build. Anything in particular I should look for in a RGBW 5050 strip? Where can I purchase terminals and connectors for these inputs if I'd like to make custom cables for them?


If you are going to make your own cables you can pick up some of these cut to length and solder onto your strips.


----------



## war4peace

I have a question.
I am going to buy a second Flow Sensor (Aquacomputer flow rate sensor "high flow USB" G1/4) and use it to monitor my 2nd loop which cools the CPOU and motherboard monoblock. This loop contains the monoblock itself, a EK-XRes 3 140mm reservoir, a Phobya Xtreme 200 - V.2 - Full Copper radiator and a DDC 3.2 pump from EKWB. The RAD IN and RAD OUT temperature sensors will be embedded into the extra G1/4 threads from the radiator, and together with the flow sensor they will give me the heat dissipation as outlined in the manual itself.

Anyway, the Aquaero 6 manual says (at page 9):



> Special feature “Fan 1”: This connector can alternatively be connected to a
> flow sensor. If connected to a flow sensor, select “Sensors” “Flow sensors” →
> → “Flow 2” from the menu and set “Mode” to “Fan 1 = Flow sensor”.
> Pin assignment: Pin 1: GND
> Pin 2: 0-12 V
> Pin 3: Speed signal
> Pin 4: PWM signal (aquaero 5: Fan 4 only)


So I was wondering whether I should either:
* use the USB connection (I have a hubby7 with free connectors)
* use Aquabus
* plug the sensor to the Aquaero 6 using the method outlined above.

What would you recommend?


----------



## stefxyz

Hi, 

for my new silent build (4 420mm radiators in 2 loops 1 for cpu one for gpu) I plan to use 12 Silent Wings 3 as radiator fans (between 600 and 800 rpm max). Now I heard there might be issues with the Aquero 6 pro?

Are the 140mm non PWM BL065 unproblematic?

Cheers,

Stefan


----------



## Aenra

@Shoggy Got two questions, bear with me please.

1) Am contemplating a vision+vario block; for someone as clumsy as me (am dangerous), sole experience being screwing a block down to the mobo, how.. complicated/involved is it? I've seen the video, but like i said, i'm clumsy, lol. Should i perhaps buy a regular block version? I mean i wanna give it a whirl, but.. can you overscrew it for example? Bend or break something?

2) Regardless of version, is there any limitation to blocks' fitting size? For example, i remember needing an extender for your filter, my fittings alone wouldn't clear; if there is, could you specify?

And thanks for reading


----------



## war4peace

Aenra said:


> 2) Regardless of version, is there any limitation to blocks' fitting size? For example, i remember needing an extender for your filter, my fittings alone wouldn't clear; if there is, could you specify


Indeed, for the filter you will need extensions if using fittings with 20mm outer diameter or above. Note this is the diameter of the fitting itself, not the tubing for it.
For example, EK's EK-ACF 16/10mm has an outer diameter of 22mm and will NOT fit two on the filter. I had to leave the tubing screw caps out. 

I ended buying a couple of 2x45 degrees extenders for it.


----------



## Aenra

war4peace said:


> Indeed, for the filter you will need extensions



Thanks for replying, but am already aware of that; only used it as an example, question relates to their waterblocks


----------



## war4peace

Well on the other hand you do NOT need extensions if using 13/10 fittings, so there's that 
As for their waterblocks I don't know.


----------



## Shoggy

Juris said:


> Looking to hook up the XT to my Aquacomputer D5 Aquabus pump (41093) and an MPS Flow 400. Am I right in thinking this is the right config or are there better configs that offer more control.
> 
> MPS Flow > USB cable + alarm cable > D5 pump > aquabus cable > Aquaero 6 XT Aquabus High port
> 
> As its hitting summer in Ireland and my desk is facing the sun I'm also looking to control 3 external fans attached to an Aquaduct 360 grill I picked up which will go under the desk to cool myself. Grabbed a Splitty9 so am I right to attach the Splitty9 to one of the Aquaero fan headers with a standard 4 pin PWM header cable. Can I control the fans via the Xt's IR remote? Cheers.


Not sure about your mentioned setup. You will have to connect the mps flow sensor and pump to their own aquabus header. In other words you need a y-cable or splitter board. You can not connect the flow sensor to the pump.

The most useful way to switch the fan speed with the remote control is to use the profile feature. The aquaero can store four profiles. Each profile can contain a completely different configuration. The profiles can be called through the four folder icons in the main menu. A simple access to the speed settings of the fans is not possible. You would have to change the general configuration via the remote which takes way too much time.



war4peace said:


> I am going to buy a second Flow Sensor (Aquacomputer flow rate sensor "high flow USB" G1/4) (...)
> 
> So I was wondering whether I should either:
> * use the USB connection (I have a hubby7 with free connectors)
> * use Aquabus
> * plug the sensor to the Aquaero 6 using the method outlined above.


I recommend to use the 3-pin variant of the sensor (sensor + cable). You can connect it to the aquabus lowspeed port. The trick is that in newer firmware versions this port acts as second flow sensor port since the aquabus low speed interface it not used anymore since years.

If we assume you take the USB variant, you will have to connect it via aquabus. The aquaero can not access its values via USB.



Aenra said:


> @Shoggy1) Am contemplating a vision+vario block; for someone as clumsy as me (am dangerous), sole experience being screwing a block down to the mobo, how.. complicated/involved is it? I've seen the video, but like i said, i'm clumsy, lol. Should i perhaps buy a regular block version? I mean i wanna give it a whirl, but.. can you overscrew it for example? Bend or break something?
> 
> 2) Regardless of version, is there any limitation to blocks' fitting size? For example, i remember needing an extender for your filter, my fittings alone wouldn't clear; if there is, could you specify?


Dealing with the VARIO feature reauires one thing the most: a lot of time! Finding the perfect cooling performance is just based on try and error since you do not know how chaning one of the screws will affect the performance. So you have to experiment. In theory you could damage the mechanic if you reach the end point and still keep on applying force to turn it even further. Well, unlikely but not impossible.

The distance (center to center) between the threads is 28mm.


----------



## Aenra

Shoggy said:


> In theory you could damage the mechanic if you reach the end point and still keep on applying force to turn it even further. Well, unlikely but not impossible. The distance (center to center) between the threads is 28mm.



Am not _that_ dangerous! 
Though the distance kills this entirely.. bah; i know the answer and i even know why, but if in the future you could perhaps slowly start changing that, so as to accommodate for 10/16 fittings? About 21mm i think overall diameter? Will have to check, but i think it's near that. It's more or less a staple by now, for good or for worse.

And thanks for replying regardless


----------



## Shoggy

Very unlikely that this will be changed since it would be only possible with a redesign of the top which also means that the mounting brackets must be changed too etc.

The current distance should be more than enough for all common fittings.

Or you switch to a TR4 system. The upcoming block has plenty of space between the threads.


----------



## Aenra

How many months has it been since the transition? And they haven't even sorted the basics..
From the water-cooling 'tree', last post inside the Aquaero thread is shown to have been made by Shoggy.
Enter the thread, last post i see is still mine; from yesterday 
(if no one's guessed it, am only posting so that maybe, who knows, i can see his reply; apologies)

Aaand it worked!
@Shoggy given no clearance issues, i will most definitely be buying a TR4 block if you get that design out, that's for sure.
I'm just confused now, way you stated it; did you mean that a 10/16mm fitting actually _can_ fit your current blocks? Or that it's a size you personally don't consider as common? :S
I don't mean to be 'that' guy, but it's important to be certain, lol, it's a good chunk of money so.. my apologies if i'm being daft.


----------



## zipeldiablo

Help !
I just finished my loop and the pump is leaking like crazy from somewhere in what seems to be the bottom.

I have an aquastream ultimate with an aquainlet 100ml pro.

After taking everything appart (damaging the pump in the meantime because it was so hard to remove, godamnit...) it appears the o-ring between the two parts wasn't set properly.
Now it is bend a bit and i am afraid to use this again without replacing the o-ring.

Any tips on how to avoid that in the future?
It seems the electronic is safe and sound, running a leak test in closed loop with just the pump/res to see if it is fixed


----------



## war4peace

Shoggy said:


> I recommend to use the 3-pin variant of the sensor (sensor + cable). You can connect it to the aquabus lowspeed port. The trick is that in newer firmware versions this port acts as second flow sensor port since the aquabus low speed interface it not used anymore since years.
> 
> If we assume you take the USB variant, you will have to connect it via aquabus. The aquaero can not access its values via USB.


Thank you, I already have one 3-pin variant and it works great, I'll get another and hook it to the Aquabus low speed port. I have the latest firmware on my Aquaero 6 LT.


----------



## zipeldiablo

Damn that scary, took me hours to fix everything (making sure the pump didn't leak anymore).

Do you guys know how to use the buttons on the aquastream? i feel like when i touch them nothing is happening.
The display seems to be in some kind of loop displaying informations about the temp etc

Firmware issue maybe?


----------



## Shoggy

Aenra said:


> I'm just confused now, way you stated it; did you mean that a 10/16mm fitting actually _can_ fit your current blocks? Or that it's a size you personally don't consider as common? :S


Your fittings can have a diameter of up to 28mm (should be slightly less so they do not block each other). I would say that is already quite big. No idea which size a common fitting for 16mm tubing has, but hard to believe that there are none available that stay within that 28mm limit.



zipeldiablo said:


> After taking everything appart (damaging the pump in the meantime because it was so hard to remove, godamnit...) it appears the o-ring between the two parts wasn't set properly.
> Now it is bend a bit and i am afraid to use this again without replacing the o-ring.
> 
> Any tips on how to avoid that in the future?


We can send you a new o-ring with a letter. Usually the aquainlet PRO is just like plug and play. I really wonder how you managed to damage the gasket. Anyway, you could slightly lubricate it with dish washing liquit for example so that the nozzle of the pumps slides in easily.



zipeldiablo said:


> Do you guys know how to use the buttons on the aquastream? i feel like when i touch them nothing is happening.
> The display seems to be in some kind of loop displaying informations about the temp etc
> 
> Firmware issue maybe?


The buttons have a clear haptic feedback. Maybe the board has become lose and is no longer attached to the latches in the rear cover? You can easily pull it off by pushing one edge a bit sideways. You will see some latches on the indise that hold the controller board in place. Make sure the board sits firmly behind them.


----------



## zipeldiablo

Shoggy said:


> We can send you a new o-ring with a letter. Usually the aquainlet PRO is just like plug and play. I really wonder how you managed to damage the gasket. Anyway, you could slightly lubricate it with dish washing liquit for example so that the nozzle of the pumps slides in easily.
> 
> 
> The buttons have a clear haptic feedback. Maybe the board has become lose and is no longer attached to the latches in the rear cover? You can easily pull it off by pushing one edge a bit sideways. You will see some latches on the indise that hold the controller board in place. Make sure the board sits firmly behind them.


Well it was really hard to fit, not plug and play at all hence why the gasket took a hit.
Apparently i managed to put it back properly though since i had no leak afterwards, did a 3hours leak test with the pump only in closed loop and everything seems to be fine now.
I had no idea this could happen it was a real pain... ( i was in the middle of filling the loop, red coolant everywhere)

Thanks i will take a look


----------



## Aenra

Shoggy said:


> Your fittings can have a diameter of up to 28mm (should be slightly less so they do not block each other)



You've always been extremely patient with me and i'm honestly thankful :thumb:
I kiiiinda confused radius with diameter...

This is very good news, next block for me is a Vario then! Will be fun, lol


----------



## tCoLL

Trying to configure my farbwerk; I have it connected by usb and aquabus right now. I cannot find where to switch the priority to aquabus. Under my aquaero it shows no aquabus devices connected. If I disconnect usb the device and connected components go away.


----------



## zipeldiablo

Damn this deaeration mode is soooo handy.
Speaking of deaeration, since it is just a matter of sending a pwn signal to the pump, i am wondering if the aquaero can do the same with a d5. If not does aquacomputer plan on releasing this? 
That would be really cool

I'm wondering, when my loop will be based (the fans, pump does it already) on water temp, how quicker will the cpu be cooled?
Or is it the same but without the fans going that high in rpm ?


----------



## chas1723

I have an aquaero 6 pro and was wondering how many noiseblocker eloop pwm fans could go off of one channel. The fans I have are the 120mm pwm 800-2000 rpm fans. Would 6 on one channel be too much? I also have the heatsink installed on my aquaero. 

Thanks. 

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


----------



## jura11

chas1723 said:


> I have an aquaero 6 pro and was wondering how many noiseblocker eloop pwm fans could go off of one channel. The fans I have are the 120mm pwm 800-2000 rpm fans. Would 6 on one channel be too much? I also have the heatsink installed on my aquaero.
> 
> Thanks.
> 
> Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


Hi there 

If you have Aquaero 6 then Amp limit per fan header is 2.00A, which I would thought so will be enough for yours needs to control 6* Noiseblocker eLoop

Have look, I'm running or controlling from one PWM header on Aquaero 6XT 18* Noiseblocker BlackSilent Pro PL2(9 fans are on HWLabs GTS360 and another 9 are on MO-ra3 360mm) which are rated at 0.16A same as yours Noiseblocker eLoop I think and at full 12v or full RPM which are around 1100RPM I'm hitting 1.60-1.64A and at 58% I'm at 0.90A

Due this I think you will be just fine there, I'm using only Aquacomputer SPLITTY9 on my build as tried other ones which never worked as intended or they never worked due this I highly recommend SPLITTY9 

Hope this helps 

Thanks, Jura


----------



## pthomson

Does anyone know how many darkside 12' LED strips you can run using connect cables to a single 6LT fan header? I believe I have seen up to 4 on this forum but wanted to be sure before ordering.


----------



## chas1723

jura11 said:


> Hi there
> 
> If you have Aquaero 6 then Amp limit per fan header is 2.00A, which I would thought so will be enough for yours needs to control 6* Noiseblocker eLoop
> 
> Have look, I'm running or controlling from one PWM header on Aquaero 6XT 18* Noiseblocker BlackSilent Pro PL2(9 fans are on HWLabs GTS360 and another 9 are on MO-ra3 360mm) which are rated at 0.16A same as yours Noiseblocker eLoop I think and at full 12v or full RPM which are around 1100RPM I'm hitting 1.60-1.64A and at 58% I'm at 0.90A
> 
> Due this I think you will be just fine there, I'm using only Aquacomputer SPLITTY9 on my build as tried other ones which never worked as intended or they never worked due this I highly recommend SPLITTY9
> 
> Hope this helps
> 
> Thanks, Jura


Thanks for the information. I was not aware of the splitty9. That looks like a great solution for connecting multiple fans. 

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


----------



## Ashcroft

pthomson said:


> Does anyone know how many darkside 12' LED strips you can run using connect cables to a single 6LT fan header? I believe I have seen up to 4 on this forum but wanted to be sure before ordering.


They are supposed to use 2.5W per 12" strip, so you could put a lot more than 4 on before hitting the 30W per channel. In my experience they use a little less than 2.5W but you would want a reasonable buffer between the max rating of the controller. I think 8 to 10 per channel would be OK with proper cooling.


----------



## pthomson

Ashcroft said:


> They are supposed to use 2.5W per 12" strip, so you could put a lot more than 4 on before hitting the 30W per channel. In my experience they use a little less than 2.5W but you would want a reasonable buffer between the max rating of the controller. I think 8 to 10 per channel would be OK with proper cooling.


Thanks - that's really great to know. Just planning out my SM8 lighting right now. Thinking 3 LED strips running on the left, top and right front edge corners (near the window).


----------



## Shoggy

tCoLL said:


> Trying to configure my farbwerk; I have it connected by usb and aquabus right now. I cannot find where to switch the priority to aquabus. Under my aquaero it shows no aquabus devices connected. If I disconnect usb the device and connected components go away.


That option does not exist anymore. If your aquaero and farbwerk use the latest firmware, the aquabus connection is automatically priotized when you use both together.


----------



## ExcellentAmp

chas1723 said:


> I have an aquaero 6 pro and was wondering how many noiseblocker eloop pwm fans could go off of one channel. The fans I have are the 120mm pwm 800-2000 rpm fans. Would 6 on one channel be too much? I also have the heatsink installed on my aquaero.
> 
> Thanks.
> 
> Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


I have 6 of the same fans connected to the Splitty9 running on one channel of the Aquaero 6 LT. No problems to date.


----------



## tCoLL

How's the white from the farbwerk using rgb strips? I've always felt that RGB strips are crappy at making a true white, they usually end up blue/purple. Should I look into RGBW strips instead, and how would I hook the up?


----------



## Barefooter

tCoLL said:


> How's the white from the farbwerk using rgb strips? I've always felt that RGB strips are crappy at making a true white, they usually end up blue/purple. Should I look into RGBW strips instead, and how would I hook the up?



I just recently installed the lighting on my build here

These two shots show the Darkside RGB strips turned to full white.


----------



## gerraldd

Hi guys. I just got a 6 LT and Aquasuite(2017) doesn't seem to recognize it.

When installing, there's no 2016 version on the dropdown list so I am forced to use 2017. The device is also recognized on this screenshot under "Connceted USB devices" https://i.imgur.com/VxftL9r.png

This is what greets me after installation: https://i.imgur.com/1EG3MBV.png

I even tried buying a license but it gives me an error: https://i.imgur.com/XXlK7uO.png

What am I doing wrong?

EDIT: Currently, all the fans that are connected are running at full speed.


----------



## Barefooter

gerraldd said:


> Hi guys. I just got a 6 LT and Aquasuite(2017) doesn't seem to recognize it.
> 
> When installing, there's no 2016 version on the dropdown list so I am forced to use 2017. The device is also recognized on this screenshot under "Connceted USB devices" https://i.imgur.com/VxftL9r.png
> 
> This is what greets me after installation: https://i.imgur.com/1EG3MBV.png
> 
> I even tried buying a license but it gives me an error: https://i.imgur.com/XXlK7uO.png
> 
> What am I doing wrong?
> 
> EDIT: Currently, all the fans that are connected are running at full speed.


I think the sticker on the Aquaero LT box should have your license number on it.


----------



## Shoggy

You have a problem with the USB connection. Can be told by the fact that your setup does not show the serial number next to the device. Maybe try a different USB port.

BTW: That sticker thing was only done for a short transition time where stock was mixed with devices that had no license directly bound to their serial number.


----------



## gerraldd

Shoggy said:


> You have a problem with the USB connection. Can be told by the fact that your setup does not show the serial number next to the device. Maybe try a different USB port.


This is the USB cable that it came with. https://i.imgur.com/qTuBc6s.jpg
5-pin female on both ends.

The red wire is plugged in here on my usb hub: https://i.imgur.com/kw08eZn.png

The hub is working fine because I tried to plug in a usb device and it got recognized by my PC.


----------



## jura11

gerraldd said:


> This is the USB cable that it came with. https://i.imgur.com/qTuBc6s.jpg
> 5-pin female on both ends.
> 
> The red wire is plugged in here on my usb hub: https://i.imgur.com/kw08eZn.png
> 
> The hub is working fine because I tried to plug in a usb device and it got recognized by my PC.


Hi there 

Personally I would get this one USB hub, have this hub on my PC and has been faultless in my case

https://shop.aquacomputer.de/product_info.php?language=en&products_id=3419

In yours case this does looks like USB issue as above guys suggested or pointed out 

Try connect USB directly to your motherboard without the using USB hub 

Hope this helps 

Thanks, Jura


----------



## Shoggy

The hub is the problem. Connect the aquaero directly to the mainboard and it will work.


----------



## Juris

Shoggy said:


> Not sure about your mentioned setup. You will have to connect the mps flow sensor and pump to their own aquabus header. In other words you need a y-cable or splitter board. You can not connect the flow sensor to the pump.
> 
> The most useful way to switch the fan speed with the remote control is to use the profile feature. The aquaero can store four profiles. Each profile can contain a completely different configuration. The profiles can be called through the four folder icons in the main menu. A simple access to the speed settings of the fans is not possible. You would have to change the general configuration via the remote which takes way too much time.


Thanks Shoggy. I'll buy some splitters and extra aquabus cables.

Just wondering regards gerraldd's usb hub problem. Has anyone had success connecting their Aquaero up with the NZXT hubs. I have 2 of these things (one being a replacement after it was sending power to my motherboard causing both the motherboard lighting and my Trident Z RGB ram to light up with no 8 or 24 pin cables connected to the board so be warned) but haven't gotten around to testing the Aquaero with them. I could pick up a Hubby 7 but it means some serious rearranging of connections, rerouting and remaking custom acrylic panels I made to house them to suit the Hubby.

Alternatively I could grab another one of these https://www.scan.co.uk/products/40c...to-type-a-(male)-cable-ideal-for-motherboards which just as an aside I found cured the problems Thermaltake Riing fans have with Ryzen. Any thoughts?

Also wondering is there still problems with the AC High Flow sensor ticking. As my new build is an open bench Raijintek Paean it would drive me nuts if it did. Its that or another MPS 400 but again that means more fittings will be needed.


----------



## jura11

Juris said:


> Thanks Shoggy. I'll buy some splitters and extra aquabus cables.
> 
> Just wondering regards gerraldd's usb hub problem. Has anyone had success connecting their Aquaero up with the NZXT hubs. I have 2 of these things (one being a replacement after it was sending power to my motherboard causing both the motherboard lighting and my Trident Z RGB ram to light up with no 8 or 24 pin cables connected to the board so be warned) but haven't gotten around to testing the Aquaero with them. I could pick up a Hubby 7 but it means some serious rearranging of connections, rerouting and remaking custom acrylic panels I made to house them to suit the Hubby.
> 
> Alternatively I could grab another one of these https://www.scan.co.uk/products/40c...to-type-a-(male)-cable-ideal-for-motherboards which just as an aside I found cured the problems Thermaltake Riing fans have with Ryzen. Any thoughts?
> 
> Also wondering is there still problems with the AC High Flow sensor ticking. As my new build is an open bench Raijintek Paean it would drive me nuts if it did. Its that or another MPS 400 but again that means more fittings will be needed.


Hi there 

Friend used NZXT USB hub and this hub fried his board, CPU has been OK and RAM as well and GPU but board has been fried or dead due this I just couldn't recommended this hub,using currently AC USB hub and no issues, same hub is using my friend on his loop

For start get better fans which don't have any issues, Thermaltake fans are not best, you can pick up better and cheaper fans which would outperform these TT fans 

Never used this cable and can't comment there, maybe other have better experience with this cable than me 

I'm running or using Aquacomputer High Flow and no issues and ticking in my case and I'm sitting from my PC around 20-30cm and simply I cannot hear this sensor at all, my fans are running on idle or low water delta T at 700-800RPM and still I just can't hear the this High Flow sensor 

Hope this helps 

Thanks, Jura


----------



## Juris

jura11 said:


> Hi there
> 
> Friend used NZXT USB hub and this hub fried his board, CPU has been OK and RAM as well and GPU but board has been fried or dead due this I just couldn't recommended this hub,using currently AC USB hub and no issues, same hub is using my friend on his loop
> 
> For start get better fans which don't have any issues, Thermaltake fans are not best, you can pick up better and cheaper fans which would outperform these TT fans
> 
> Never used this cable and can't comment there, maybe other have better experience with this cable than me
> 
> I'm running or using Aquacomputer High Flow and no issues and ticking in my case and I'm sitting from my PC around 20-30cm and simply I cannot hear this sensor at all, my fans are running on idle or low water delta T at 700-800RPM and still I just can't hear the this High Flow sensor
> 
> Hope this helps
> 
> Thanks, Jura


Cheers Jura. Yep I've seen some of the Amazon.com 1 star reviews on the NZXT usb hub. Sadly after I bought it. Pretty much 100% of the complaints are the slight issues of smoke coming from their motherboards, cables melting etc. No idea how NZXT are permitted to sell them in the EU if they are pushing current into motherboards to the point they fry. Never mind their molex power cables are some of the worst I've seen in 20 years. Had to have 2 of their NZXT Hue+ cables replaced when the black leads just slid out from the pin as it looked like it had been crimped by a 2 year old. Yet still many seem to report no issues. Their QC has gone to the dogs. 

Guess I'm looking at buying 2 Hubby7's. I reckon my credit card is about to melt at this point (must be made by NZXT) but in for a penny in for a pound I guess.


----------



## 7thOmen

Juris said:


> Also wondering is there still problems with the AC High Flow sensor ticking. As my new build is an open bench Raijintek Paean it would drive me nuts if it did. Its that or another MPS 400 but again that means more fittings will be needed.


I have two currently in use. One is about 3 years old and the other is approximately 6 months old. I have them mounted in Lian Li T70 test benches, so total exposure. I found that, if you orient them with the ports up, the ticking is almost non-existant. I think that air can get trapped in them in most other orientations, causing the noise. If you look at Martin's review ( https://martinsliquidlab.wordpress.com/2012/01/21/aquacomputer-water-high-flow-sensor-meter/4/ ), you can see a potential for air to get trapped. I also noticed a more erratic reading with the sensor mounted in any position other than 'fittings up'. 

Hope this helps,

Omen


----------



## GTXJackBauer

When the sensor reaches 1.5 GPM and higher is when most noticed a ticking noise. An efficient flowing loop only needs to be in the vicinity of 1.0-1.5 GPM roughly.


----------



## JasonMorris

I have mounted it horizontally and vertically and had no ticking. As long as you have an inch or two of straight run either side it should be fine.


----------



## Juris

Thanks for the replies guys. I doubt my rig will hit the 1.5GPM or anywhere near as its a single D5 pushing through triple EK rads (XE 360, PE360, PE240) with triple EK R9 290's and an EK supremacy but in saying that the AC Flow sensor is also an added point of restriction even if going my Martins Liquid Labs reviews it equals only 1/3 of a CPU block so there is that to consider. 

The only place I can mount it in this build is a single stretch of horizontal tubing at the rear. I'll have to check if I have enough room to swing it up into a horizontal position so the impeller is flat as my cabling to the PSU will be right above it. Cheers.


----------



## Abaidor

Juris said:


> Cheers Jura. Yep I've seen some of the Amazon.com 1 star reviews on the NZXT usb hub. Sadly after I bought it. Pretty much 100% of the complaints are the slight issues of smoke coming from their motherboards, cables melting etc. No idea how NZXT are permitted to sell them in the EU if they are pushing current into motherboards to the point they fry. Never mind their molex power cables are some of the worst I've seen in 20 years. Had to have 2 of their NZXT Hue+ cables replaced when the black leads just slid out from the pin as it looked like it had been crimped by a 2 year old. Yet still many seem to report no issues. Their QC has gone to the dogs.
> 
> Guess I'm looking at buying 2 Hubby7's. I reckon my credit card is about to melt at this point (must be made by NZXT) but in for a penny in for a pound I guess.


That was a Gen 1 issue the new one does not have the problem. I mean the plastic one which I am using (and many others) without issues on my Asus Rampage VI Extreme. 

So if you bought it recently you have the new version not the one from 2 years ago.


----------



## war4peace

I have one High Flow sensor (the mechanical, no USB one), and it never ticked. I abused it by placing it immediately after the pump combo exit, currently measuring 1.4 GPM and in the near future the value would only go up because I will change to dual-loop and this loop will only feed a couple 1080 Tis in parallel and a MoRa 420.

I am very satisfied with the flow meter.


----------



## gerraldd

Shoggy said:


> The hub is the problem. Connect the aquaero directly to the mainboard and it will work.


Hi! Just letting you know that connecting the aquaero directly to the motherboard worked. Thanks!

EDIT:
I can now control the fans using the 3 options(Power, Speed and PWM) except for my pump.
It is the D5(Generation 2) model from EK.
Connected by molex and the 4 pin pwm to fan1 on aquaero.
It just runs on full speed even if I change the values on the control options.
Is the pump not compatible with aquaero 6LT?

Also, aquasuite is showing that my Ryzen 2700x is at 95+ degrees celcius but it's only ranging from 30-40 on Ryzen Master.


----------



## Bartdude

gerraldd said:


> Hi! Just letting you know that connecting the aquaero directly to the motherboard worked. Thanks!
> 
> EDIT:
> I can now control the fans using the 3 options(Power, Speed and PWM) except for my pump.
> It is the D5(Generation 2) model from EK.
> Connected by molex and the 4 pin pwm to fan1 on aquaero.
> It just runs on full speed even if I change the values on the control options.
> Is the pump not compatible with aquaero 6LT?
> 
> Also, aquasuite is showing that my Ryzen 2700x is at 95+ degrees celcius but it's only ranging from 30-40 on Ryzen Master.



EK D5 PWM ver 2 should be ok, i have 2 connected via a splitty9 to fan header 1 and can control them fine. Under Aquaero tab, goto fan make sure PWM & min/max power is set. Under the same tab you'll see controllers, in there you can setup your pump control. Select the + to add a new controller.


----------



## gerraldd

Bartdude said:


> Select the + to add a new controller.


That's what is missing. All working good now. Thanks!


----------



## gamefoo21

I got myself an Aquero 6 LT, so I can stash it inside my case. I'm going to be using it to control two inline temp sensors, the basic flow meter at the the end of the loop, 3x 2150RPM GT-Bs, an MCP50x(maybe two), several temp sensors, and a few other fans. Glad to find something that can handle PWM and the ability to control things off of more than just one temperature input. I'm hoping to have the pumps and fans respond to the CPU and/or GPU temps.

I do have one problem, one of the screws/stand offs, is horribly cross threaded, and it rattles since it never seated against the PCB.

1) Right now, it means I can't mount the bay mount brackets. I have ordered the passive cooler plate, does that little brass piece get replaced or do I have to find a replacement?

2) Am I limited to one temp/response curve per output? So the GPU and CPU core temps would both apply to the same curve or can I have it so they each have their own curve? An example would be the CPU is a 50'C, the pump PWM is at 60%, if the GPU is a 50'C the Pump PWM is at 40%, and the system knows to use the higher requested PWM rate. The other way is GPU at 50'C = 50% PWM and CPU at 50'C = 50% PWM, since the temps are tied to the same curve. Clear like mud, right?

I really appreciate this thread, so much handy advice in this thread alone, ecspecially regarding the flow meter.


----------



## Barefooter

gamefoo21 said:


> I got myself an Aquero 6 LT, so I can stash it inside my case. I'm going to be using it to control two inline temp sensors, the basic flow meter at the the end of the loop, 3x 2150RPM GT-Bs, an MCP50x(maybe two), several temp sensors, and a few other fans. Glad to find something that can handle PWM and the ability to control things off of more than just one temperature input. I'm hoping to have the pumps and fans respond to the CPU and/or GPU temps.
> 
> I do have one problem, one of the screws/stand offs, is horribly cross threaded, and it rattles since it never seated against the PCB.
> 
> 1) Right now, it means I can't mount the bay mount brackets. I have ordered the passive cooler plate, does that little brass piece get replaced or do I have to find a replacement?
> 
> 2) Am I limited to one temp/response curve per output? So the GPU and CPU core temps would both apply to the same curve or can I have it so they each have their own curve? An example would be the CPU is a 50'C, the pump PWM is at 60%, if the GPU is a 50'C the Pump PWM is at 40%, and the system knows to use the higher requested PWM rate. The other way is GPU at 50'C = 50% PWM and CPU at 50'C = 50% PWM, since the temps are tied to the same curve. Clear like mud, right?
> 
> I really appreciate this thread, so much handy advice in this thread alone, ecspecially regarding the flow meter.


Not sure what to tell you about the loose screw without a picture.

Once you have the pumps dialed into the flow rate you want, and a noise level you are happy with, you can leave the pumps set there.

As for making a curve for your fans, the best way I have found is to use a water temperature sensor, and an ambient air temperature sensor, create a "virtual sensor" in Aquasuite off the difference between the two sensors, then use that for your curve.

The water temperature increases/decreases slowly so your fans will ramp up and down slowly. If you base your curve on CPU temp for example, your fans will be constantly ramping up and down, and will drive you crazy!


----------



## gamefoo21

Thank you for the reply.

I'll definitely do what you suggested, after thinking about it for a minute or three, the fans ramping all over the place would be really annoying.


----------



## Mega Man

gamefoo21 said:


> I got myself an Aquero 6 LT, so I can stash it inside my case. I'm going to be using it to control two inline temp sensors, the basic flow meter at the the end of the loop, 3x 2150RPM GT-Bs, an MCP50x(maybe two), several temp sensors, and a few other fans. Glad to find something that can handle PWM and the ability to control things off of more than just one temperature input. I'm hoping to have the pumps and fans respond to the CPU and/or GPU temps.
> 
> I do have one problem, one of the screws/stand offs, is horribly cross threaded, and it rattles since it never seated against the PCB.
> 
> 1) Right now, it means I can't mount the bay mount brackets. I have ordered the passive cooler plate, does that little brass piece get replaced or do I have to find a replacement?
> 
> 2) Am I limited to one temp/response curve per output? So the GPU and CPU core temps would both apply to the same curve or can I have it so they each have their own curve? An example would be the CPU is a 50'C, the pump PWM is at 60%, if the GPU is a 50'C the Pump PWM is at 40%, and the system knows to use the higher requested PWM rate. The other way is GPU at 50'C = 50% PWM and CPU at 50'C = 50% PWM, since the temps are tied to the same curve. Clear like mud, right?
> 
> I really appreciate this thread, so much handy advice in this thread alone, ecspecially regarding the flow meter.


1 no they don't afaik . But very well could be wrong

2 depends on what you want, there are many options what do you want to do


----------



## war4peace

gamefoo21 said:


> I got myself an Aquero 6 LT, so I can stash it inside my case. I'm going to be using it to control two inline temp sensors, the basic flow meter at the the end of the loop, 3x 2150RPM GT-Bs, an MCP50x(maybe two), several temp sensors, and a few other fans. Glad to find something that can handle PWM and the ability to control things off of more than just one temperature input. I'm hoping to have the pumps and fans respond to the CPU and/or GPU temps.
> 
> I do have one problem, one of the screws/stand offs, is horribly cross threaded, and it rattles since it never seated against the PCB.
> 
> 1) Right now, it means I can't mount the bay mount brackets. I have ordered the passive cooler plate, does that little brass piece get replaced or do I have to find a replacement?
> 
> 2) Am I limited to one temp/response curve per output? So the GPU and CPU core temps would both apply to the same curve or can I have it so they each have their own curve? An example would be the CPU is a 50'C, the pump PWM is at 60%, if the GPU is a 50'C the Pump PWM is at 40%, and the system knows to use the higher requested PWM rate. The other way is GPU at 50'C = 50% PWM and CPU at 50'C = 50% PWM, since the temps are tied to the same curve. Clear like mud, right?
> 
> I really appreciate this thread, so much handy advice in this thread alone, ecspecially regarding the flow meter.


I'll only answer to point #2.

Watercooling works differently from air cooling. In that regard, you shouldn't use CPU/GPU temperatures as inputs. Water (and most liquids in general) have slow response to heat, therefore your fans will ramp up quickly and uselessly if you link their speed to CPU or GPU temperature.

What I found to be working best after building multiple PCs with watercooling and Aquaero was to use a set point controller using one water temperature sensor as input, and if I have more than one, I use the one with the highest temperature (generally, the one measuring liquid when it enters the radiator). The set point controller is configured with a sensor target temperature of 40 degrees Celsius (preferably) or 45 degrees Celsius (for smaller radiators) and all radiator fans are configured as outputs. That's all you need to set up.


----------



## pthomson

Hi - Got the 6LT now and everything is running nice and cool off a couple of fan headers  Thanks again for the recommendation. 

I have a Alphacool VPP655-PWM pump and I wanted a little help with the setup. It's currently connected to FAN 4 and I have configured the attached setup on the FAN4 config and Controller. Does this look right? It's my understanding that beyond a certain speed/flow rate you are getting diminishing returns when comparing noise vs. speed so I wanted to run it as quiet and low as possible when idle and then ramp it up a little when gaming. I have a temperature sensor hooked up and I seem to idle around the 25-26c mark and then when gaming it will slowly increase to 29-30c fan on the fan profile I have setup. I don't have a flow sensor, but am running a single loop with 1 XE 360, 1 XE480, 1 GPU and 1 CPU.


----------



## Shoggy

You have to change the mode to PWM in the advanced settings. At the moment you control the pump by its voltage which makes no sense since it is a PWM enabled pump.


----------



## Aenra

Not Aquaero related, but definitely Aqua Computer related 

Fastest delivery ever and i really had forgotten how _that_ feels like! Well done!


----------



## pthomson

Shoggy said:


> You have to change the mode to PWM in the advanced settings. At the moment you control the pump by its voltage which makes no sense since it is a PWM enabled pump.


Thanks, I changed it to PWN and noticed the voltage went up to 12v (max) with 58% Power. The PC has just booted with the controller output being 35% which is the min power. Can you help me understand how these value correlate? Surely if my controller is at 35% then the Pump should also be 35% Power?


----------



## vfridman

I'm new to this and apologies if this has been answered before. I see a lot of discussion about D5 pumps as well as certain fans compatibility. So here are my questions:

1. Is Aquacomputer D5 Pump with PWM and Input signal (part number 41105) compatible with Aquaero 6 XT?
2. Are Corsair ML series fans compatible with Aquaero 6XT?
3. Can I use SilverStone PWM Fan Hub with Aquaero 6XT?

Thanks for much in advance!


----------



## Ashcroft

pthomson said:


> Thanks, I changed it to PWN and noticed the voltage went up to 12v (max) with 58% Power. The PC has just booted with the controller output being 35% which is the min power. Can you help me understand how these value correlate? Surely if my controller is at 35% then the Pump should also be 35% Power?


You just have to understand how the controller systems work.

You have your pump set in its settings tab so its min power is 35% and max is 100%. The controller is set so that at the current temp it is putting out 35%. 

The key thing to understand is that the controller percentage applies to the range you allow in the pumps setting tab. So a controller output of 35% applies to the 35 to 100% range of the pump. So, 35% of 35 to 100 is 58%.
That might be clear as mud but to get the pump to run at the exact 35% that controller outputs the pumps range must be set to 0 to 100%. 
If you set the pump (or fan) range to 50% min 100% max and apply a 50% controller to it then the pump thinks what is 50% of the range between 50 and 100? That would be 75% power.

If you want the pump to run at the same speed the controller outputs while still having min and max speeds you need to set the pump range to 0 to 100% and use the controller settings to set the min and max outputs like you have in the controller you posted.




vfridman said:


> I'm new to this and apologies if this has been answered before. I see a lot of discussion about D5 pumps as well as certain fans compatibility. So here are my questions:
> 
> 1. Is Aquacomputer D5 Pump with PWM and Input signal (part number 41105) compatible with Aquaero 6 XT?
> 2. Are Corsair ML series fans compatible with Aquaero 6XT?
> 3. Can I use SilverStone PWM Fan Hub with Aquaero 6XT?
> 
> Thanks for much in advance!


Yes, all current Aquacomp pumps are compatible with the Aquaero and most other brands are now modified as well and work with the Aquaero. EK's gen 2 for example.
The factory original D5s normally still have problems. I believe if the pump runs at 100% with no PWM connection then it is modified and should work. The factory pumps run at about 60% with no PWM signal.

I havent used the ML series fans yet but as far as I know they work. There are only a few models that don't play well like the Silent wings 3 I believe.

The silverstone CPF04 PWM fan hub works great with the Aquaero.


----------



## pthomson

Ashcroft said:


> You just have to understand how the controller systems work.
> 
> You have your pump set in its settings tab so its min power is 35% and max is 100%. The controller is set so that at the current temp it is putting out 35%.
> 
> The key thing to understand is that the controller percentage applies to the range you allow in the pumps setting tab. So a controller output of 35% applies to the 35 to 100% range of the pump. So, 35% of 35 to 100 is 58%.
> That might be clear as mud but to get the pump to run at the exact 35% that controller outputs the pumps range must be set to 0 to 100%.
> If you set the pump (or fan) range to 50% min 100% max and apply a 50% controller to it then the pump thinks what is 50% of the range between 50 and 100? That would be 75% power.
> 
> If you want the pump to run at the same speed the controller outputs while still having min and max speeds you need to set the pump range to 0 to 100% and use the controller settings to set the min and max outputs like you have in the controller you posted.


That's really clear thanks!


----------



## kc5vdj

Just got my Aquaero 6 XT the other day. Got it in last night with four Enermax D.F. Storm Fans, and it's working nicely. Thinking about dropping that down to two channels by function (240 rad + two front case fans (in front of drive bays)) using a Y cable. Was thinking of getting a hub, but just finding one that can handle these fans is hard enough, plus I'm going full loop in the not too distant future.

Do I need pics to join the club? If so, I'll do that tonight.

One question, in the service screen in AquaSuite (latest 2017), it offers an option to take media info and spectrum analyzer input. Is this built in or do I need a third party driver? It doesn't seem to be working, and I have Pink Floyd's "Meddle" playing (Echoes).


----------



## kc5vdj

Here we go! Can I join!

For some reason i can't upload a pic, and that includes direct from my phone. is it an ocn issue today?

here is a Droplr link to a pic of it: https://d.pr/i/1sGsK9


----------



## jvillaveces

kc5vdj said:


> Here we go! Can I join!
> 
> For some reason i can't upload a pic, and that includes direct from my phone. is it an ocn issue today?
> 
> here is a Droplr link to a pic of it: https://d.pr/i/1sGsK9



Not just today. It has been fubar'd for a few days now.


----------



## kc5vdj

jvillaveces said:


> Not just today. It has been fubar'd for a few days now.


ZX-81? Heh. My cousin had one of those. He was so envious of my VIC-20


----------



## jvillaveces

kc5vdj said:


> ZX-81? Heh. My cousin had one of those. He was so envious of my VIC-20



That was the first computer I ever owned, but I started learning BASIC before that, on a friend's TRS-80...


----------



## Shoggy

kc5vdj said:


> One question, in the service screen in AquaSuite (latest 2017), it offers an option to take media info and spectrum analyzer input. Is this built in or do I need a third party driver? It doesn't seem to be working, and I have Pink Floyd's "Meddle" playing (Echoes).


It is all integrated but a bit buggy. The aquasuite 2018 will handle this in a different way so it should be working correctly on almost every system.


----------



## broodro0ster

Does anyone has experience with the Fractal HP Venturi PWM fans an the Aquaero 6 LT?
I'm thinking about buying the controller to control my fans since I don't like the normal fan control programs to control my radiator fans.


----------



## war4peace

Since I am looking at options for addressable RGB illumination, a question: Does Aquacomputer plan to launch RGB Addressable LED products in the near future? For example, during the following 6 months. I already own a Farbwerk but it would be awesome to have something like a Farbwerk 2 which includes this feature.


----------



## iamjanco

Shoggy, will the new version of AquaSuite remain compatible with the USB/aquabus D5 pump? Just asking because I know you guys have been working on new stuff, and that the USB/aquabus D5 pump is no longer being sold. 

@Shoggy


----------



## kc5vdj

broodro0ster said:


> Does anyone has experience with the Fractal HP Venturi PWM fans an the Aquaero 6 LT?
> I'm thinking about buying the controller to control my fans since I don't like the normal fan control programs to control my radiator fans.


Well, I bought mine (with intention of full open loop later) to put some Enermax D.F. Storm fans on my Corsair AIO. I don't know about the Fractal fans, but these Enermax fans are like probably one of the highest power draw models out there in the class. at the "Turbo" setting which I'm using, maximum needs 1.1 amps, and flightline earmuffs, per fan, but they give like almost 12mm mercury of static pressure at max....hardcore.

I think those Venturi fans will do just fine. This thing can within spec handle two of my Enermax DF Storm fans per channel, and have a lot of headroom still.

Also, it's been a while since I've been here on OCN. What happened to the "My Rig" bit at the bottom? I see you have it. Is that part of the paywall thing now?


----------



## kc5vdj

kc5vdj said:


> Also, it's been a while since I've been here on OCN. What happened to the "My Rig" bit at the bottom? I see you have it. Is that part of the paywall thing now?


Scratch that. I found it. I also paid the $35 for a year. Do I get some kind of confirmation?

Apparently it is still not showing up...


----------



## broodro0ster

kc5vdj said:


> Scratch that. I found it. I also paid the $35 for a year. Do I get some kind of confirmation?
> 
> Apparently it is still not showing up...


To be honest, I don't know. I'm not paying for anything and I was able to use the rig builder and have the info in my signature.
I'm a long time lurker around here, but didn't post a lot here until a few ago when I started with my new build and OC'ing again.


----------



## kc5vdj

Are the VISION Thermocouples compatible with the Aquaero? It seems that the only ones I can find in the USA are for the VISION.


----------



## Ashcroft

kc5vdj said:


> Are the VISION Thermocouples compatible with the Aquaero? It seems that the only ones I can find in the USA are for the VISION.


They just have different connectors on them but you could change them over.


----------



## Shoggy

iamjanco said:


> Shoggy, will the new version of AquaSuite remain compatible with the USB/aquabus D5 pump? Just asking because I know you guys have been working on new stuff, and that the USB/aquabus D5 pump is no longer being sold.


Yes, of course it will be still compatible. The aquasuite supports several other devices that are no longer available - some since several years. You can be sure your pump will be also supported in the future.


----------



## kc5vdj

Ashcroft said:


> They just have different connectors on them but you could change them over.


That's what I was figuring. I have a cheap connector assortment I got through Amazon, and have already undone the evils of internal accessories that need a motherboard USB connection, yet use a 5x2 block for just one port instead of a 5x1 block. It would be easier to get the ones for the VISION and just reconnector them if the specs of the thermocouple are the same, rather than pay more for shipping from Europe for the Aquaero ones. Shoggy, maybe you guys need to get some of the Aquaero ones to Performance-PCs and the other specialty companies!


----------



## Ashcroft

kc5vdj said:


> That's what I was figuring. I have a cheap connector assortment I got through Amazon, and have already undone the evils of internal accessories that need a motherboard USB connection, yet use a 5x2 block for just one port instead of a 5x1 block. It would be easier to get the ones for the VISION and just reconnector them if the specs of the thermocouple are the same, rather than pay more for shipping from Europe for the Aquaero ones. Shoggy, maybe you guys need to get some of the Aquaero ones to Performance-PCs and the other specialty companies!


Yep they are definitely the same specs of thermo sensor. 10K Ohm at 25C NTC is the defacto industry standard these days used by everyone it seems for everything from standalone water temp sensors to any fan controller with sensors and even the newest motherboards take them. Koolance used to use some different ones (100K Ohm) but their newest are standard. 

You just need to change from the Vision connector to the Dupont 2.54mm type used by the Aquaero. They are the same as used by motherboard front panel connectors and USB MB headers. You just need the 2 pin version of course.
Edit: Derp, yeah you knew that because you talked about the connectors before.
If you can't find Aquacomp brand sensors you can use other brands if they are available. I use several different brands of the bare sensor type and fitting type sensors (stop plugs and inline)

I haven't personally seen devices with 9pin 5x2 connectors that only use one side so completely take up a MB USB header for no reason, but that sort of dumbness deserves a special place in hell. Good on you for changing them up. Not enough people get into the nitty gritty like that anymore and just want retail solutions to everything.
I have a large collection of connectors myself. A good custom wiring job can be very satisfying.


----------



## iamjanco

Shoggy said:


> Yes, of course it will be still compatible. The aquasuite supports several other devices that are no longer available - some since several years. You can be sure your pump will be also supported in the future.


Thanks, Shoggy :thumb:


----------



## Juris

Strange question but as I'm separating the front touch/display section from the main body/connector section of my Aquaero 6XT to fit into my In Win 909 would anyone know what connector I would need to purchase. Its a 2x12 pin connector and I need a 90 degree angled male to male connector to connect to female female 2mm pitch cables. There are so many varieties available online I have no idea how to find the right one. Cheers.


----------



## jvillaveces

Juris said:


> Strange question but as I'm separating the front touch/display section from the main body/connector section of my Aquaero 6XT to fit into my In Win 909 would anyone know what connector I would need to purchase. Its a 2x12 pin connector and I need a 90 degree angled male to male connector to connect to female female 2mm pitch cables. There are so many varieties available online I have no idea how to find the right one. Cheers.



Maybe I am mis-interpeting your question, but you cannot separate the display from the unit. You can remove it if you need to, but not connect it through an extender. In my current build I opted for a Vision module because I couldn't fit the AQ6 display. 

It's a pity that thread search is broken, but @Shoggy ;has answered that very question here a couple of times. I can't locate the old posts, but that was his answer.


----------



## Juris

jvillaveces said:


> Maybe I am mis-interpeting your question, but you cannot separate the display from the unit. You can remove it if you need to, but not connect it through an extender. In my current build I opted for a Vision module because I couldn't fit the AQ6 display.
> 
> It's a pity that thread search is broken, but @Shoggy ;has answered that very question here a couple of times. I can't locate the old posts, but that was his answer.


Thanks for the reply. There actually was a guy who managed to do it, Cenedd over on the overclockers.co.uk forum at post 79 https://forums.overclockers.co.uk/threads/project-silent-overkill.18720102/page-4

He crimped male pins onto female cables so they were coming out straight from the connector but as I'm even more restricted in terms of space and have found it impossible to find 2mm pitch male to female cables finding an appropriate angled male to male connector would vastly simplify things. I did order 120 2mm pitch cables from China, waited 2 months for arrival and the seller had sent me 2.54mm instead and then went dark. Got a refund from ebay anyway 

I'd love to see a version of the Aquaero with a detachable display or if AC even sold a cable to make it work with the 6 I'd be on it like a shot no matter the price.


----------



## futiless

Anyone know what the present maximum Aquabus connections are with 1 Aquaero 6 and one 5 as slave ?


----------



## kc5vdj

One suggestion for the software authors:

I use minimize to tray, and start minimized. When clicking on the tray icon, the window comes up, but the tray icon disappears, and thus a second click will activate whatever tray item is next to it (in my case today, it brought up DisplayFusion settings).

Can you do this so that if "Tray" is set in settings, that it stays in the tray, even when maximized? This seems to be standard behavior with other programs in the tray.


----------



## Aenra

Like a wise man said once, the more you learn, the less you really know.. 
Question, because i'm not an electrician:

I have a few of these lying around: http://www.xs-pc.com/fans-radiator-accessories/8-way-pwm-splitter-hub-sata-powered
Rather than purchasing Splittys, i was thinking of using these instead, except i'm not sure if i should?

1) With 3pin fans, could it be that XSPC's hub has a way of providing startup boost? 'Cause then i'd have boost from the Aquaero plus boost from the hubs, which i wouldn't much appreciate 
2) For 4pin fans, can you guys think of any reason that would make them incompatible with the AQ? PWM fans plugged in the hub, hub's dedicated output signal going to AQ's input; hopefully resulting in my driving them through AQ, except no voltage required (the hub connects to a SATA).

Would really appreciate any pointers here. Both scenarios interest me equally, so if you have any knowledge to share, by all means.


----------



## Ashcroft

Yep the XSPC hub will work just fine with the Aquaero. Just like many other splitters on the market it does the exact same thing as the splitty does. It is very handy having the splitter headers laid out flat instead of upright because it takes up less vertical room in your cable management area. It uses a wider area but flatter which I find to be superior. The Silverstone CP04 splitter uses flat headers too along with a couple of the modmytoys models.

It does not use any sort of startboost because it simply supplies 12v at all times. Start boost is for fans at lower voltages.


----------



## Shoggy

futiless said:


> Anyone know what the present maximum Aquabus connections are with 1 Aquaero 6 and one 5 as slave ?


In maximum configuration, the following devices can be connected to an aquaero 5/6 simultaneously:

2x aquastream XT/ULTIMATE pumps
8x poweradjust 2/3
2x aquaero 5/6 LT (in this case no poweradjust 2/3 can be connected; or only 1 LT which allows 4 poweradjust again)
4x mps based devices (flow sensor, pressure/fill level sensor and D5 pump with aquabus)
2x farbwerk controller
1x Real Time Clock expansion module

The slave device does not work as master anymore so it can not manage any other aquabus devices.



kc5vdj said:


> Can you do this so that if "Tray" is set in settings, that it stays in the tray, even when maximized? This seems to be standard behavior with other programs in the tray.


Noted for aquasuite 2018.


----------



## Aenra

@Ashcroft thanks for replying man


----------



## kc5vdj

Shoggy said:


> Noted for aquasuite 2018.


Thanks, Shoggy!

Is there an ETA on when that will be released?


----------



## Shoggy

kc5vdj said:


> Thanks, Shoggy!
> 
> Is there an ETA on when that will be released?


~2 weeks


----------



## Fleacircus

Is this D5 with temp and speed outputs still available? I don't see it on the site.


----------



## Shoggy

No, it is not available anymore since several weeks. A new version should follow by the end of summer.


----------



## broodro0ster

Shoggy said:


> ~2 weeks


I just activated my new 6 LT. Does this mean I won't get the Aquasuite 2019 for free? 
I saw that you get the current version and the next version if you activate a new device. I bought it on Friday.

Other than that, I'm very happy with my 6 LT, except I don't get the startup temperature control working. My fans spin a 2-4% in my current curve so I raised the startup temperature a little, but I seems that the system ignores it. Any idea how to get this working?


----------



## tCoLL

broodro0ster said:


> I just activated my new 6 LT. Does this mean I won't get the Aquasuite 2019 for free?
> I saw that you get the current version and the next version if you activate a new device. I bought it on Friday.
> 
> Other than that, I'm very happy with my 6 LT, except I don't get the startup temperature control working. My fans spin a 2-4% in my current curve so I raised the startup temperature a little, but I seems that the system ignores it. Any idea how to get this working?


Just because your fans can run at 2-4% doesn't mean they can start at that percentage. You have to start boost to get them going, and can then slow them down. Basically it takes more power to get them going than to keep them going. Think about when you're riding a single speed bike. Those first couple pedals are real hard, but once you're going its easier.


----------



## broodro0ster

tCoLL said:


> broodro0ster said:
> 
> 
> 
> I just activated my new 6 LT. Does this mean I won't get the Aquasuite 2019 for free? /forum/images/smilies/frown.gif
> I saw that you get the current version and the next version if you activate a new device. I bought it on Friday.
> 
> Other than that, I'm very happy with my 6 LT, except I don't get the startup temperature control working. My fans spin a 2-4% in my current curve so I raised the startup temperature a little, but I seems that the system ignores it. Any idea how to get this working?
> 
> 
> 
> Just because your fans can run at 2-4% doesn't mean they can start at that percentage. You have to start boost to get them going, and can then slow them down. Basically it takes more power to get them going than to keep them going. Think about when you're riding a single speed bike. Those first couple pedals are real hard, but once you're going its easier.
Click to expand...

I’m using PWM fans, so they always startup fine. What is mean is that I don’t want the fans running yet. I want to run my system passive as long as the startup temperature isn’t reached yet. I set the startup temperature at a delta of 8.5C, but my fans keep spinning on their lowest setting because my curve starts at 1% at a delta of 7.5C. So I wanted to overrule that using the startup slider.


----------



## Aenra

You haven't understood what tCoLL is telling you


----------



## broodro0ster

Aenra said:


> You haven't understood what tCoLL is telling you /forum/images/smilies/smile.gif


I do understand what he means. But start boost is only for non pwm fans. PWM fans always run at 12V and don’t need a start boost. As soon as I give 1% input, the fans start and run at 400rpm (lowest setting). 0% turns of the voltage so they stop completely and that’s what I want to achieve. 

I want to shut down my fans under a certain temp. It works if I adjust the curve to zero, but I would prefer to just use the slider so the fans turn off under that value.


----------



## Aenra

broodro0ster said:


> I do understand what he means. But start boost is only for non pwm fans


You do and it is; my apologies, i misread 
As to your problem (now that i got it, lol), can't help am afraid; only posting to say the doc prescribed them lenses for a reason after all.. who'd have thought!


----------



## Shoggy

broodro0ster said:


> I just activated my new 6 LT. Does this mean I won't get the Aquasuite 2019 for free?


You will also get a license for aquasuite 2019 after aquasuite 2018 has been released. Affected licenses will be upgraded automatically.


----------



## broodro0ster

Shoggy said:


> You will also get a license for aquasuite 2019 after aquasuite 2018 has been released. Affected licenses will be upgraded automatically.


That's great to hear! 

Do you also have an idea why "startup temperature control" is not working as expected? Basically I want that my fans shut down under startup temperature control threshold, but as soon as my fan curve reaches 1% under the set point, they start spinning.



Aenra said:


> You do and it is; my apologies, i misread
> As to your problem (now that i got it, lol), can't help am afraid; only posting to say the doc prescribed them lenses for a reason after all.. who'd have thought!


No problem  Hopefully Shoggy can help me out.


----------



## pupetmaster

Shoggy said:


> No, it is not available anymore since several weeks. A new version should follow by the end of summer.


A new version? Do you have information about the new products on offer
Because I wanted to buy a D5 aquacomputer, but as it says "Estimated lead time 10 days"
Thank


----------



## 4WDBenio

Shoggy said:


> No, it is not available anymore since several weeks. A new version should follow by the end of summer.


Oh Australia has to wait till Feb 2019...😎


----------



## Shoggy

broodro0ster said:


> Do you also have an idea why "startup temperature control" is not working as expected? Basically I want that my fans shut down under startup temperature control threshold, but as soon as my fan curve reaches 1% under the set point, they start spinning.


Please provide screenshots of the settings from the fan and controller tab for the affected fan channel(s).


----------



## pupetmaster

4WDBenio said:


> Oh Australia has to wait till Feb 2019...😎


What kind of pump do we have to replace it with? I have to buy two.


----------



## broodro0ster

Shoggy said:


> ~2 weeks





Shoggy said:


> Please provide screenshots of the settings from the fan and controller tab for the affected fan channel(s).


Here is a screenshot: https://dzwonsemrish7.cloudfront.net/items/2k0Q1J2935422A3f0q3H/aq2.png

As you can see in the graph, I change the startup temperature slider to 8.5°C, but the fans still run under 8.5°C because they get a 1% control signal. As soon as the water delta hits 7.3°C, the fans stop spinning because the point of the curve is 0% output. I would just like to set the startup temperature with the slider without having to mess with manual points on the curve, but it seems that the startup temperature point is totally ignored by the controller.

I know I can drag the points of the curve to 0%, but that's a hassle because the automatic curve works sooooo nice and is easy to adjust. Except that startup temp doesn't seem to effect anything


----------



## war4peace

broodro0ster said:


> Here is a screenshot: https://dzwonsemrish7.cloudfront.net/items/2k0Q1J2935422A3f0q3H/aq2.png
> 
> As you can see in the graph, I change the startup temperature slider to 8.5°C, but the fans still run under 8.5°C because they get a 1% control signal. As soon as the water delta hits 7.3°C, the fans stop spinning because the point of the curve is 0% output. I would just like to set the startup temperature with the slider without having to mess with manual points on the curve, but it seems that the startup temperature point is totally ignored by the controller.
> 
> I know I can drag the points of the curve to 0%, but that's a hassle because the automatic curve works sooooo nice and is easy to adjust. Except that startup temp doesn't seem to effect anything


Why do you have the fan limits set to 30%-90%? Have you tried changing the lower limit to 0% and move upwards from there?


----------



## broodro0ster

war4peace said:


> Why do you have the fan limits set to 30%-90%? Have you tried changing the lower limit to 0% and move upwards from there?


My PWM fans are spinning at 400rpm from 0-30% PWM input. I need give a 35% PWM signal to make them spin at 450rpm. So that's why I set the minimum value for the fan to 30%. The Aquaero fan controller takes these values into account and when you give 1% input on the fan controller, a 30% PWM signal will be send to the fan. So now the Aquaero fan controller sends a 35% PWM signal to my fans when I choose 6% fan speed in the controller. 
If I would set the fan range from 0-100%, my fan controller would behave strange since 1 or 30% input would make no difference. 

There is also a setting "hold minimum" if you want that the Aquaero keeps sending power to the fan at 0% input. If you uncheck this, the power for the connected fans will be cut off and they will completly stop. I have unchecked this setting and when I choose 0% input or a curve where I can achieve 0% controller output, my fan power off completely. So I'm quite sure that my fan setup is correct. 
Why the startup temperature isn't taken into account is a question for me, but maybe I have the wrong exceptions or maybe it's a bug in the current software.

Other than that, the Aquaero 6 is nice piece of hardware/software.

EDIT: And to answer to your question: Yes, I have also tried 0-100% fan range, but the problem remains. As soon as the controller sends 1% output or more, the fans spin up to their lowest setting (400rpm)


----------



## war4peace

OK I understand now. 
I was aware of all the settings but how they behave depends on the fan, for example some fans run at 100% whrn PWM signal is at 0%.

The only advice I could give you is to switch to a 2-point set controller.


----------



## broodro0ster

And I have an other question, but I'm not sure if it's the Aquaero of my motherboard that reports false reading.

Before I had my Aquaero 6 LT, I was running my fans of the mobo headers. 100% PWM signal would results in 1850RPM readings which is in line with the specs of packaging of my fans (Fractal Design Venturi HP 120mm). But when connecting them to my Aquaero 6 LT, 100% PWM signal results in 1650rpm. 

I'm not sure if my fans spin really slower with the AQ6 since 1650 is already quite loud. I'm just wondering why I'm seeing different RPM's with the Aquaero.

My EK D5 pump is also PWM controlled and reports 4800rpm with a 100% PWM signal in the AQ6. This was the same on my motherboard, so I just something strange with the fans.


----------



## chibi

Hey guys, has there been any changes to software/firmware so that the Aquaero can be fully turned off when the computer is shutdown? I see my display is on ever so slightly. Is there any cause for concern with the screen/led burning out over time for being constantly on?

Water loop is getting rebuilt at the time so thought I'd ask, thanks!


----------



## GTXJackBauer

broodro0ster said:


> And I have an other question, but I'm not sure if it's the Aquaero of my motherboard that reports false reading.
> 
> Before I had my Aquaero 6 LT, I was running my fans of the mobo headers. 100% PWM signal would results in 1850RPM readings which is in line with the specs of packaging of my fans (Fractal Design Venturi HP 120mm). But when connecting them to my Aquaero 6 LT, 100% PWM signal results in 1650rpm.
> 
> I'm not sure if my fans spin really slower with the AQ6 since 1650 is already quite loud. I'm just wondering why I'm seeing different RPM's with the Aquaero.
> 
> My EK D5 pump is also PWM controlled and reports 4800rpm with a 100% PWM signal in the AQ6. This was the same on my motherboard, so I just something strange with the fans.


How many fans are we talking about to this channel and are you within the channels limits (watts/temp)? Could be wacky readings because of a splitter or hub that is feeding too many fan readings back to the AQ.



chibi said:


> Hey guys, has there been any changes to software/firmware so that the Aquaero can be fully turned off when the computer is shutdown? I see my display is on ever so slightly. Is there any cause for concern with the screen/led burning out over time for being constantly on?
> 
> Water loop is getting rebuilt at the time so thought I'd ask, thanks!


You should be able to turn this off via your MB's BIOS because your system off is still feeding power to the USB (5v). Dependent on the MB maker and BIOS, I had to enable 'European Union standardization for energy and energy savings" which shuts off any power going to my USB while my system is off.


----------



## chibi

GTXJackBauer said:


> You should be able to turn this off via your MB's BIOS because your system off is still feeding power to the USB (5v). Dependent on the MB maker and BIOS, I had to enable 'European Union standardization for energy and energy savings" which shuts off any power going to my USB while my system is off.


Thanks Jack, I'll check the bios next time I'm able to boot. :thumb:


----------



## broodro0ster

GTXJackBauer said:


> How many fans are we talking about to this channel and are you within the channels limits (watts/temp)? Could be wacky readings because of a splitter or hub that is feeding too many fan readings back to the AQ.


I have 2 triple radiators and I connected the 3 fans per header on the 6LT with a splitter. Only 1 fan is reporting RPM signal and the rest just receives the same PWM signal but don't have an RPM wire installed.


----------



## Andrew LB

kc5vdj said:


> Well, I bought mine (with intention of full open loop later) to put some Enermax D.F. Storm fans on my Corsair AIO. I don't know about the Fractal fans, but these Enermax fans are like probably one of the highest power draw models out there in the class. at the "Turbo" setting which I'm using, maximum needs 1.1 amps, and flightline earmuffs, per fan, but they give like almost 12mm mercury of static pressure at max....hardcore.



Maybe it's just me, but does anyone else think Enermax is playing 'fast and loose' with their stats for that fan? Its a 120x25mm fan pushing 155cfm and spins at 3,500rpm and is only 38dba. First of all, 38dba is not even close to requiring ear muffs. Sunon has a maglev (see: corsair ML series) 120x25mm fan that pushes 150cfm but its 56dba and has to spin at 4500rpm. EK's furious Vardar 120 spins at 3,000rpm and pushes just over 100cfm and is 42dba. I'm not even sure if a 120x38mm fan could be that quiet while pushing that much air.


----------



## GTXJackBauer

Andrew LB said:


> Maybe it's just me, but does anyone else think Enermax is playing 'fast and loose' with their stats for that fan? Its a 120x25mm fan pushing 155cfm and spins at 3,500rpm and is only 38dba. First of all, 38dba is not even close to requiring ear muffs. Sunon has a maglev (see: corsair ML series) 120x25mm fan that pushes 150cfm but its 56dba and has to spin at 4500rpm. EK's furious Vardar 120 spins at 3,000rpm and pushes just over 100cfm and is 42dba. I'm not even sure if a 120x38mm fan could be that quiet while pushing that much air.


They all usually do this so that's why you kind of have to take everything with a grain of salt and hope to catch some benchmarks for said gear from experts online that have done it before. 

My go to experts is Skinnelabs and Martinsliquidlab, even though they haven't tested anything in a very long time. I know Martin doesn't do it anymore but a lot of relevant information is still there for some great rad fans or pumps for example.


----------



## Andrew LB

Shoggy said:


> You will also get a license for aquasuite 2019 after aquasuite 2018 has been released. Affected licenses will be upgraded automatically.



I don't quite understand how this works considering I purchased my Aquaero 5 LT brand new and have always had Aquasuite 2017 (and its updates) yet my device is only "licensed up to aquasuite version 2017". 



Aquacomputer's website says "Newly purchased devices have a license for at least the current and next year version of the software."


The "Current" aquasuite when i purchased my device was 2017. /confused


----------



## Andrew LB

GTXJackBauer said:


> They all usually do this so that's why you kind of have to take everything with a grain of salt and hope to catch some benchmarks for said gear from experts online that have done it before.
> 
> My go to experts is Skinnelabs and Martinsliquidlab, even though they haven't tested anything in a very long time. I know Martin doesn't do it anymore but a lot of relevant information is still there for some great rad fans or pumps for example.



I know, thats the point i was making. Those specs really stood out as being highly suspect. 



As for Martin and Skinnelabs, i've probably read every single review on those sites and understand how much snake oil is sold in the industry. Funny how i can't seem to find any reviews from reliable websites of this particular fan.


----------



## war4peace

Andrew LB said:


> Funny how i can't seem to find any reviews from reliable websites of this particular fan.


As someone who has tested fans exclusively from a watercooling performance perspective, I know testing things such as noise levels and static pressure or flow rate requires a lot of very sensitive devices and a dedicated testing room which cost a lot of money. The ROI is measured in years, and so not a lot of websites do spend that amount of money.


----------



## Shoggy

Andrew LB said:


> I don't quite understand how this works considering I purchased my Aquaero 5 LT brand new and have always had Aquasuite 2017 (and its updates) yet my device is only "licensed up to aquasuite version 2017".


As I wrote it will be upgraded automatically as soon as aquasuite 2018 will be released. Currently it is not possible to receive the current and next years version due to technical reasons.


----------



## broodro0ster

Shoggy said:


> Please provide screenshots of the settings from the fan and controller tab for the affected fan channel(s).


Here is a screenshot: https://dzwonsemrish7.cloudfront.net...3f0q3H/aq2.png

As you can see in the graph, I change the startup temperature slider to 8.5°C, but the fans still run under 8.5°C because they get a 1% control signal. As soon as the water delta hits 7.3°C, the fans stop spinning because the point of the curve is 0% output. I would just like to set the startup temperature with the slider without having to mess with manual points on the curve, but it seems that the startup temperature point is totally ignored by the controller.

I know I can drag the points of the curve to 0%, but that's a hassle because the automatic curve works sooooo nice and is easy to adjust. Except that startup temp doesn't seem to effect anything


----------



## Ashcroft

broodro0ster said:


> Here is a screenshot: https://dzwonsemrish7.cloudfront.net...3f0q3H/aq2.png
> 
> As you can see in the graph, I change the startup temperature slider to 8.5°C, but the fans still run under 8.5°C because they get a 1% control signal. As soon as the water delta hits 7.3°C, the fans stop spinning because the point of the curve is 0% output. I would just like to set the startup temperature with the slider without having to mess with manual points on the curve, but it seems that the startup temperature point is totally ignored by the controller.
> 
> I know I can drag the points of the curve to 0%, but that's a hassle because the automatic curve works sooooo nice and is easy to adjust. Except that startup temp doesn't seem to effect anything


The startup temp is only for the initial fan start. After that the fans will follow the curve even if it stops and starts again. 

Its not for every time the fans are commanded to stop turning if thats what you are meaning and having trouble with.


----------



## war4peace

Ashcroft said:


> The startup temp is only for the initial fan start. After that the fans will follow the curve even if it stops and starts again.
> 
> Its not for every time the fans are commanded to stop turning if thats what you are meaning and having trouble with.


Very interesting, I never considered that possibility, a bit counterintuitive to be honest.


----------



## GTXJackBauer

Some new gear and software from Aquacomputer.

https://forum.aquacomputer.de/weitere-foren/board8-english-forum/


----------



## Vow3ll

GTXJackBauer said:


> Some new gear and software from Aquacomputer.
> 
> https://forum.aquacomputer.de/weitere-foren/board8-english-forum/


Story of my life - (order stuff, get it, they release better stuff) repeat.


----------



## Aenra

All i want is more PWM fan headers!

Like a Fanaero (am i not creative? I know, i know) with 6 PWM fan headers, sans all the other stuff i don't use anyway, lol.. i'd love that 

Anyway, hope these sell well.


----------



## war4peace

RGBpx, FINALLY!
I love you guys...


----------



## Wam7

I have an Aquaero 6 Pro with latest 2009 firmware. I'm using AquaSuite 2016-5.3.
I would like to setup my curves using software sensors, I'd prefer to use the VRM Mos setting in HWiNFO 64 v5.84. 

Is it possible to do this and if so how would I accomplish that?


Edit: Managed to this by going to Sensors - Software Temperature Sensors and then adding a source. HWiNFO was in my list as it was already installed. I then went to my motherboard and the VRM sensor was listed there.


----------



## alanthecelt

GTXJackBauer said:


> Some new gear and software from Aquacomputer.
> 
> https://forum.aquacomputer.de/weitere-foren/board8-english-forum/


that's typical
in the box i have an aquaero 6, 2 flow sensors ,2 temp sensors, a fahbwerk (sp) and 4 xspc pwm fan hubs... and then all this new stuff comes out before i even think about mounting it all
Granted, nothing there is a deal breaker, perhaps i could have saved a few pennies... i quite fancy the digital temp sensors but mostly unnecessary


----------



## broodro0ster

alanthecelt said:


> that's typical
> in the box i have an aquaero 6, 2 flow sensors ,2 temp sensors, a fahbwerk (sp) and 4 xspc pwm fan hubs... and then all this new stuff comes out before i even think about mounting it all
> Granted, nothing there is a deal breaker, perhaps i could have saved a few pennies... i quite fancy the digital temp sensors but mostly unnecessary


The stock sensor that come with AQ6 are pretty good actually. I connected them all 4 and put them in the same place to see if they all show the same value. There was only 1 that was reporting slightly lower values (0,3°C) but you can add an offset in the software, so that isn't an issue. And for watertemps, I just use this: https://www.alphacool.com/shop/neue...ursensor-g1/4-ig/ig-mit-ag-adapter-deep-black or you can even tape the stock sensors to a fitting. I got the same readings from my inline sensor as with a stock sensor taped to the inline sensor.


----------



## Ashcroft

GTXJackBauer said:


> Some new gear and software from Aquacomputer.
> 
> https://forum.aquacomputer.de/weitere-foren/board8-english-forum/


Some interesting new gear to buy, Now just need the new D5 USB pumps.

The Digitemp looks good as does the Quadro. I;m not interested in RGB though. I don't understand the renewed interest in it.


----------



## zeroibis

Ashcroft said:


> Some interesting new gear to buy, Now just need the new D5 USB pumps.
> 
> The Digitemp looks good as does the Quadro. I;m not interested in RGB though. I don't understand the renewed interest in it.


WOW lots of great stuff! Very excited for the QUADRO especially for air cooled rigs that do not need the full range of options that an aquaero provides. I also love that you can use it as an extension to your aquaero allowing you to add 8 more PWM channels for around $100!


----------



## kc5vdj

broodro0ster said:


> I do understand what he means. But start boost is only for non pwm fans. PWM fans always run at 12V and don’t need a start boost. As soon as I give 1% input, the fans start and run at 400rpm (lowest setting). 0% turns of the voltage so they stop completely and that’s what I want to achieve.
> 
> I want to shut down my fans under a certain temp. It works if I adjust the curve to zero, but I would prefer to just use the slider so the fans turn off under that value.


I have personally found the Startup Boost to be helpful with my fans, since I am running Enermax D.F. Storm fans that for the first fifteen seconds or so will run in reverse at full speed in an effort to shake off any debris accumulation from the blades. I set up the Startup boost to be a couple of seconds longer than it takes for the fans to do this.

Was a little disappointed by 2018 going 100% on everything (D.F. Storm fans are pretty loud at 100%, and when you have four of them...), although the slider positions were correct from the previous profiles, it's like moving them wasn't doing anything, until I adjusted the master preset screen's slider.

The disappearing tray icon when maximized is fixed, it remains in the tray even when it is maximized now.

Plus the USB Screen works now with the spectrum analyzer. There is a slight tenth of a second or so latency in the spectrum analyzer, but it is fairly close.

I also like that the full info (on the right) is now displayed on the screens for the individual fans.

Overall, I'd call the updated software a good effort on the part of the devs.


----------



## E-curbi

Watch your Thermals!

Installed the new AquaSuite 2018-1 and my DC fans on my rads are cutting off without warning, twice already. Have them set to 50%power and advanced settings to "power controlled", since they are dc fans, not PWMs.

I get 50%pwr in the graph flat line, yet Fan Channel 2 says 0 rpms even NOW when the fans are spinning at 750rpms. Reflashed firmware, no help at all.

Leaving HWMonitor ON and in view, and have the ROG Qcode display set to monitor CPU package temp. 

I believe we have some bugs Shoggy. 

On the flipside, the new software LOOKS great. lol 

Right now fans are spinning water temps Pre and Post rad are good, Fan Channel 2 says 6volts 50%power yet no rpm reading, even though fans are spinning. Should I do a RESET to factory defaults?

(screenshot below)


----------



## Shoggy

This must be an isolated problem with your setup. No one else reported such a problem. You can try a reset to the factory defaults. Maybe also perform a fresh aquasuite installation. You can save your current aquasuite settings by renaming the folder C:\ProgramData\aquasuite-data to something else.

Are you also sure that it was working correctly before? It would not be the first time that something was already not working before and after an update everyone is taking a closer look and then realizes something is wrong without taking notice that it was also wrong before.


----------



## wheatpaste1999

I had to do an uninstall and clean install of Aquasuite in order to get the firmware update to stick for my Aquaero 6 LT.

Other than that, no issues with the upgrade to Aquasuite 2018.


----------



## E-curbi

Shoggy said:


> This must be an isolated problem with your setup. No one else reported such a problem. You can try a reset to the factory defaults. Maybe also perform a fresh aquasuite installation. You can save your current aquasuite settings by renaming the folder C:\ProgramData\aquasuite-data to something else.
> 
> Are you also sure that it was working correctly before? It would not be the first time that something was already not working before and after an update everyone is taking a closer look and then realizes something is wrong without taking notice that it was also wrong before.


Uninstalled AquaSuite 2018-1, then reinstalled CLEAN. Did not save my older settings, alarms went off fans went to 100% power, yet everything now working just fine. Had to re-setup all my Vision external LED information screens that took awhile but everything is working great.

AquaSuite looks awesome! 

Thanks Shoggy. :thumb:


----------



## p0Pe

Just wanted to show my previous setup here, as you guys might enjoy it


----------



## war4peace

Why is that flow rate so low?


----------



## p0Pe

Not sure. I used a bitspower flowmeter, so that might be the culprint.


----------



## war4peace

Just to put things into perspective, my 2x D5 in series push about 3L of liquid through 2x 1080 Ti cards, an EKWB motherboard monoblock and a massive MoRa 420 radiator at 5.2L/min or around 310-315 L/h.


----------



## jura11

war4peace said:


> Just to put things into perspective, my 2x D5 in series push about 3L of liquid through 2x 1080 Ti cards, an EKWB motherboard monoblock and a massive MoRa 420 radiator at 5.2L/min or around 310-315 L/h.


Hi there 

Lots of depends on radiators used, CPU plus GPUs blocks and pump speeds and pump tops(some pump tops are restrictive) in his case and not at least flow sensor 

Yours flow is quite good there,assuming 310-315LPH you are getting with pumps running at full speed? 

Have look in my case I have 4*360mm radiators(3*HWLabs LS360 and these radiators are probably most restrictive radiators on market,then I have in loop EK XE360 which is low restriction radiator) and MO-ra3 360mm with 2*QDC, this is cooling 3*GPUs(GTX1080Ti and GTX1080 and third GTX1080), Aquacomputer Kryos CPU block and I'm running 2*D5 pumps as you and my flow is in range 97-107LPH as max with pumps running at full speed, have run previously with EK DDC 3.2 PWM Elite edition or 2*D5 and 1*EK DDC 3.2 PWM Elite edition and my flow has been max at 148-152LPH,I have Aquacomputer High Flow sensor, strange is temperatures are same like previously with 148-152LPH 

Previously run same or similar setup(3*GPUs with same CPU water block AQ Kryos) like right now just difference has been case Enthoo Primo with 360mm EK XE360 Radiator on top and 240mm Mayhems Havoc on bottom with single DDC EK DDC 3.2 PWM Elite edition with which I have flow in range 240-260LPH maybe bit higher but not seen higher flow than 288LPH 

There are lots of variables why flow is low and in many cases is down to setup, pumps or pump top, radiators etc 

Hope this helps 

Thanks, Jura


----------



## p0Pe

When I put the pumps to max speed, the flowmeter would show 90 L/H.

It is also worth mentioning that my build is not exactly the least restrictive build on the planet.










More pictures here: https://www.facebook.com/pg/DesignsByHPS/photos/?tab=album&album_id=1844904285519858


----------



## iamjanco

p0Pe said:


> When I put the pumps to max speed, the flowmeter would show 90 L/H.
> 
> It is also worth mentioning that my build is not exactly the least restrictive build on the planet.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> More pictures here: https://www.facebook.com/pg/DesignsByHPS/photos/?tab=album&album_id=1844904285519858


You've still got it in you -- excellent :thumb:


----------



## war4peace

jura11 said:


> Yours flow is quite good there,assuming 310-315LPH you are getting with pumps running at full speed?


Yes, both the GPUs and the monoblock are in parallel, so that helps overall flow.



p0Pe said:


> When I put the pumps to max speed, the flowmeter would show 90 L/H.
> 
> It is also worth mentioning that my build is not exactly the least restrictive build on the planet.
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> More pictures here: https://www.facebook.com/pg/DesignsByHPS/photos/?tab=album&album_id=1844904285519858


Holy mother of! That's the most amazing build I've seen in ages!
Chapeau, mate, it's no wonder the flow is low, that base must be really restrictive. But I'd take that any day, in exchange for such amazing build


----------



## Shoggy

*aquasuite 2018-2* has been released this morning. It contains some bugfixes for problems and minor errors that have been reported in the last days.


----------



## Amphetamine

Hi, I've got a 5LT. Is there any way to use data outside of temperatures as source for curves? I've got a 12v LED hard strip behind my reservoir and I'd like to set the brightness based on 'CPU Total' %. I can see the value in Data Quick View, under Aqua Computer Hardware Monitor, but I'm not sure how I go about using it as the source for a curve. Any ideas?


Ta.


----------



## GTXJackBauer

Amphetamine said:


> Hi, I've got a 5LT. Is there any way to use data outside of temperatures as source for curves? I've got a 12v LED hard strip behind my reservoir and I'd like to set the brightness based on 'CPU Total' %. I can see the value in Data Quick View, under Aqua Computer Hardware Monitor, but I'm not sure how I go about using it as the source for a curve. Any ideas?
> 
> 
> Ta.


Yes you can via curves under the controllers tab. 

I don't think I would put the LED based on GPU usage since it will be erratic. I usually base lighting on water or delta temps for a gradual change but that is all up to you on how you would like to go on about this.


----------



## Amphetamine

GTXJackBauer said:


> Yes you can via curves under the controllers tab.
> 
> I don't think I would put the LED based on GPU usage since it will be erratic. I usually base lighting on water or delta temps for a gradual change but that is all up to you on how you would like to go on about this.



No, I really want it to pulse hard with the change in CPU usage, my temps are too stable to give the effect that I'm after. But again I'm going to ask how because after creating a new curve, selecting Power Output 1 as the output, then pressing the + on Data Source, all I get is temperature sensors. How can I get 'CPU Total' (or anything aside from temperatures) on the selection list?


----------



## rolldog

Ok, so in my rig a couple years ago, I had 2 Aquaeros, 2 Farbworks, and 3 Poweradjust Ultras to run dual loops along with 32 fans. Since then, I've scrapped the build, built something new in a case that has no external drive bays, so all my Aquaero stuff is sitting in a box. 

I just got an idea, but I want to ask if this would work before spending any time trying to get it to work. Will the Aquaero, Poweradjusts, and Farbwerks work by themselves (not installed into a computer) as long as they have the power connections for everything to run? I have 3 x 55" equipment racks, which houses all of my Audio/Video gear/Home Automation equipment, and I had an enclosure built so the racks are flush with a wall. They're installed in a hallway behind my media room, which is about 25 feet long, and it shares a wall with my attic. If possible, I'd like to connect my Aquaero, Poweradjusts, and Farbwerks up so I can install some exhaust fans in this enclosure, monitor the temperature inside the enclosure, and set some fan curves so they speed up as the temp rises. I also have some LED strips, which I want to attach to the top front of my media racks so they can be lit up. If I can connect all these up using MOLEX connectors and using the Aquabus, can I set everything up like I want to keep this enclosure from overheating?

Since nothing will be installed in a PC, I won't have any software to operate anything, and I'll have to rely on the remote for the Aquaero and the touch panel on the Aquaero. Will this work?


----------



## war4peace

rolldog said:


> Will this work?


The Aquaero will, not sure about the others though.


----------



## rolldog

If the Aquaero will, then the Poweradjusts will, if they're connected using the Aquabus. I'm planning to connect 4 DC fans to it. The fans pull 3.0A max 36 watts (each). I remember when I had the Aquaero and Poweradjusts installed on my old rig, I could connect about 8 fans on each channel. Given that the fans I have now draw 36 watts, am I stuck using one fan per channel?


----------



## Shoggy

Amphetamine said:


> Hi, I've got a 5LT. Is there any way to use data outside of temperatures as source for curves? I've got a 12v LED hard strip behind my reservoir and I'd like to set the brightness based on 'CPU Total' %. I can see the value in Data Quick View, under Aqua Computer Hardware Monitor, but I'm not sure how I go about using it as the source for a curve. Any ideas


That is not possible. The controllers of the aquaero expect a temperatue value as input.



rolldog said:


> Ok, so in my rig a couple years ago, I had 2 Aquaeros, 2 Farbworks, and 3 Poweradjust Ultras to run dual loops along with 32 fans. Since then, I've scrapped the build, built something new in a case that has no external drive bays, so all my Aquaero stuff is sitting in a box.
> 
> I just got an idea, but I want to ask if this would work before spending any time trying to get it to work. Will the Aquaero, Poweradjusts, and Farbwerks work by themselves (not installed into a computer) as long as they have the power connections for everything to run? I have 3 x 55" equipment racks, which houses all of my Audio/Video gear/Home Automation equipment, and I had an enclosure built so the racks are flush with a wall. They're installed in a hallway behind my media room, which is about 25 feet long, and it shares a wall with my attic. If possible, I'd like to connect my Aquaero, Poweradjusts, and Farbwerks up so I can install some exhaust fans in this enclosure, monitor the temperature inside the enclosure, and set some fan curves so they speed up as the temp rises. I also have some LED strips, which I want to attach to the top front of my media racks so they can be lit up. If I can connect all these up using MOLEX connectors and using the Aquabus, can I set everything up like I want to keep this enclosure from overheating?
> 
> Since nothing will be installed in a PC, I won't have any software to operate anything, and I'll have to rely on the remote for the Aquaero and the touch panel on the Aquaero. Will this work?


All these devices work autonomously. The aquasuite only acts as user interface. When you do not have them connected to the PC some features are not available of course. For example you can not monitor the CPU temperature directly for example because this requires a USB connection and the data from the Aqua Computer Service running in the background.

You should be also aware that the aquabus can not replace a USB connection and some features are not available. For example the brightness curves of the farbwerk can not be controlled via aquabus.



rolldog said:


> If the Aquaero will, then the Poweradjusts will, if they're connected using the Aquabus. I'm planning to connect 4 DC fans to it. The fans pull 3.0A max 36 watts (each). I remember when I had the Aquaero and Poweradjusts installed on my old rig, I could connect about 8 fans on each channel. Given that the fans I have now draw 36 watts, am I stuck using one fan per channel?


If these fans really draw 36W, than you can connect only one of them per channel.

4x 36W... my whole system incl. display draws less power in regular desktop mode


----------



## rolldog

Shoggy said:


> 4x 36W... my whole system incl. display draws less power in regular desktop mode


Yea, check these out! 4000 RPMs & 200cfm and they come with a metal finger guard. I was hoping I could power them using a Poweradjust, but it's looking like I might have to buy a DC power supply. I'm not sure if anyone makes something that can power 4 of these fans and control the speed of them as well. I have a remote and a power supply for my Darkside RGB LED strips, but I thought it would be easier if I could power them using the Farbwerk. I hate the little remotes that come with all the LED strips.


----------



## grumf

Got a question regarding the new Quadro, if I wanted to monitor and control the connected fans does it need to be connected to an Aquaero? If so is do I connect it to the Aquabus "high speed" connection?

Second question, I have a flow sensor mps, which I planned to connect to the Aquabus "high speed" connection (using an Aquaero 6), is it possible to connect the flow sensor mps & Quadro to the high speed connection via a splitter cable?

Thanks


----------



## Shoggy

QUADRO is an autonomous working stand alone device. There is no need to connect it to an aquaero.

You can not connect a mps flow sensor to QUADRO. The aquaero is the only device that can manage other devices that have an aquabus interface.


----------



## Aenra

Shoggy assuming you're allowed to disclose this:

1) Was looking at the 4pin Quadro cable, as seen here: https://shop.aquacomputer.de/product_info.php?products_id=3487
Could you tell me if the pins are wired in the typical 4pin PWM fashion? And/of if it's the typical 12v, ground, tach and pulse of course?

Am asking because i've got a whole spool of black wire left over, along with a bunch of black mini 4pins (for GPUs). If i could wire those instead, i'd avoid having multi-colored cables or plugs 
(i don't do sleeving and pwetty colors, but i do like it all bare and black)
((no pun intended, lol))

* late edit, but..

2) Since the Quadro has its own power input, it should be possible to use simple fan cable splitters to connect 2 or 3 fans per header; which leads me to the question:
Do we still use the typical 4out -> 4in + 3in kind? You know, 2 pulses going forward, but only one tach? ie only one fan RPM actual readout?
I know how dumb this sounds, but better safe than sorry. The lack of a dedicated tach 'output' confused me. What confused things further was my coming across a 4pin splitter that actually forwards all tachs.. had not seen that before outside dedicated 5pins..

#imwithstupid


----------



## Flamso

I feel pretty stupid since I can't get the Aquabus to work properly. I have an Aquacomputer D5 and the Aqualis with fill level sensor. With USB the reservoir works perfectly but when I try to move over to Aquabus it just doesn't show up. I use a Splitty9 with the Aquabus mode on and I have connected both units with 4-pin cables that came with my Splitty's. The cable from the Splitty is then connected to the "high" Aquabus port on my Aquaero 6 Pro. I just can't seem to figure it out. Do I need to change addresses on both the pump and the tank or is there an option to switch over from USB to Aquabus that I can't find in Aquasuite?

Edit: Well, updated to 2018-3 from 2017 and now it finds MPS at least, gonna try connecting the pump again.

Edit2: Seems like it won't work unless I have them connected with USB. So strange.


----------



## Shoggy

*@Aenra:* The cable that you linked is for the aquabus communication and has nothing to do with the fans. The pin assignment can be found in the manual of each device.

Of course you can still only monitor the RPM signal of one fan when you use a splitter. It will always be like that until a miracle will happen 

Splitty4 does not forward the RPM signal of all fans since this would also make no sense. If you look at the main product photo you can see the RPM imprint next to the first channel.

*@Flamso:* both devices use a mps controller board so they use the same aquabus ID number by default. You have to change the ID of one device. Afterwards perform a cold restart, go to the aquabus tab of the aquaero within the aquasuite and let it search for aquabus devices if you do not see both of them right from the start.


----------



## Flamso

Shoggy said:


> *@Flamso:* both devices use a mps controller board so they use the same aquabus ID number by default. You have to change the ID of one device. Afterwards perform a cold restart, go to the aquabus tab of the aquaero within the aquasuite and let it search for aquabus devices if you do not see both of them right from the start.


Well, I see both of them in the Aquabus tab but the tab with the fill level sensor is not active and says to connect USB. Do they still show up below the Aquaero as a standalone unit with Aquabus or are they controlled within the Aquaero tab?


----------



## E-curbi

Shoggy said:


> Of course you can still only monitor the RPM signal of one fan when you use a splitter. It will always be like that until a miracle will happen
> 
> Splitty4 does not forward the RPM signal of all fans since this would also make no sense.



Well would you look at that, Mr. Shoggy does have a sense of humor after all. :lachen: 

Hidden under all those layers. 


...he was being funny, right? :h34r2:


----------



## Shoggy

Flamso said:


> Well, I see both of them in the Aquabus tab but the tab with the fill level sensor is not active and says to connect USB. Do they still show up below the Aquaero as a standalone unit with Aquabus or are they controlled within the Aquaero tab?


When you connect these devices only via aquabus, then their own device tabs that you have with USB will no longer work. These devices get mapped into the aquaeros menu structure. The aquabus is limited in its function. In case of the fill level sensor it can only read the sensor data. If you need to change any settings you will have to connect USB again. Same if you have to perform a firmware update.


----------



## Aenra

I cannot know how it "always was", i haven't been around for "always", lol
What i do know is that i saw multiple tachs been forwarded into a single header; while it's easy to assume that's wrong, i'd rather ask first and assume last.

Many thanks for reminding me the obvious, regarding the Aquabus cable; found the pins in the manual, like you said


----------



## Flamso

Shoggy said:


> When you connect these devices only via USB, then their own device tabs that you have with USB will no longer work. These devices get mapped into the aquaeros menu structure. The aquabus is limited in its function. In case of the fill level sensor it can only read the sensor data. If you need to change any settings you will have to connect USB again. Same if you have to perform a firmware update.


Ah, that explains it. Thank you very much for your answers!


----------



## Shoggy

Just realized a typo that makes it confusing. Of course I meant when you only use *aquabus*, then you will no longer have the menus that you get when a device is connected via USB.


----------



## Aenra

On a totally different topic, has anyone here run two AMSs in parallel? And if so, did they bother making a comparison between a single unit and the two connected in parallel?

(assuming you have or know through other means, please specify if you're talking about the aluminum or the copper variant)


----------



## sinnedone

Running the latest version of Aquasuite on a fresh Windows 10 install and the "Aqua Computer Service" will continue to use system memory.
Seems to start around 250ishMB and after a couple of hours is up to 1260MB.

Normal or is this something I can mitigate with settings somewhere? (This is on a 5LT)


----------



## zeroibis

sinnedone said:


> Running the latest version of Aquasuite on a fresh Windows 10 install and the "Aqua Computer Service" will continue to use system memory.
> Seems to start around 250ishMB and after a couple of hours is up to 1260MB.
> 
> Normal or is this something I can mitigate with settings somewhere? (This is on a 5LT)


Sounds like a memory leak. Mine sits around 130MB. What version are you running?


----------



## Amphetamine

@Shoggy I've got a Quadro ordered now to go with my 5LT, are there any dissadvantages to running it via Aquabus as opposed to USB? I'd rather do a short run of cable than have something else to route from the motherboard.


Ta.


----------



## wheatpaste1999

Any ETA when some of these new products, especially the Quadro, will make it to resellers in the US? The shipping costs don't make it worth it from the Aquacomputer webshop. Even a single Quadro doesn't qualify for the flat rate padded envelope option.


----------



## Shoggy

sinnedone said:


> Running the latest version of Aquasuite on a fresh Windows 10 install and the "Aqua Computer Service" will continue to use system memory.
> Seems to start around 250ishMB and after a couple of hours is up to 1260MB.
> 
> Normal or is this something I can mitigate with settings somewhere? (This is on a 5LT)


Definitely not normal. You should try to disable the hardware monitoring in service tab of the aquasuite. If the problem is still there, disable the audio and video analyzing in the audio and video tab.

If you succeed with the hardware monitoring you should enable/disable the hardware groups step by step to tell which of them seems to cause the problem in your case.



Amphetamine said:


> @Shoggy I've got a Quadro ordered now to go with my 5LT, are there any dissadvantages to running it via Aquabus as opposed to USB? I'd rather do a short run of cable than have something else to route from the motherboard.


aquabus will give you no access to the RGBpx features.


----------



## tCoLL

Is it possible to run rgbw strips on the farbwerk or quadro? Not really happy with the white that rgb strips are providing. Also any tips on why my color wheel in my farbwerk is outputting different colors? I’m using aqua computer cables and did R=red G=green B=blue and black=12v


----------



## zeroibis

wheatpaste1999 said:


> Any ETA when some of these new products, especially the Quadro, will make it to resellers in the US? The shipping costs don't make it worth it from the Aquacomputer webshop. Even a single Quadro doesn't qualify for the flat rate padded envelope option.


Very excited to see the Quadro make its way over to US retailers. I think at this price point we will start to see this thing used in air cooled builds as well. Heck I already plan to try to pick one up to use for a file server to offer better fan control based off HDD temps.


----------



## Aenra

zeroibis said:


> better fan control


It interests me as well as it is self-powered (term may be horribly wrong, but you know what i mean) and capable of driving a good number of fans.
On the other hand, 40ish euro is just too much for a fan hub; i can see the value for the RGB kindergarten crowd as it allows for both, but for the remaining sane people on this planet?

There are self-powered hubs allowing control of just as many fans for the price of 10+ euro (XSPC's and Silverstone's [Phanteks has one too, but it's only for their fans, so am thinking they went Corsair's way and ""innovated"" on their PWM function]).

What i don't know is if the Quadro is better in practice. Say 'x' model of fan you may not have been able to drive in multiples with some other brand's hub, but could with this one.


----------



## Flamso

Aenra said:


> It interests me as well as it is self-powered (term may be horribly wrong, but you know what i mean) and capable of driving a good number of fans.
> On the other hand, 40ish euro is just too much for a fan hub; i can see the value for the RGB kindergarten crowd as it allows for both, but for the remaining sane people on this planet?
> 
> There are self-powered hubs allowing control of just as many fans for the price of 10+ euro (XSPC's and Silverstone's [Phanteks has one too, but it's only for their fans, so am thinking they went Corsair's way and ""innovated"" on their PWM function]).
> 
> What i don't know is if the Quadro is better in practice. Say 'x' model of fan you may not have been able to drive in multiples with some other brand's hub, but could with this one.


Well, I don't know about you but the 150 euro for the Aquaero 6 Pro is a bargain compared to the functions it offers. The Quadro has the ability to control Corsair or NZXT fans and that's insanely good, besides the addressable RGB strips that is. You don't need a rainbow to appreciate the wonders of RGB with all the customisation it offers your build in the long run. 

Besides, I dare you to find any fan controller that even comes close to what Aquacomputer has been offering for a whole lot of years. It's certainly worth the money!


----------



## zeroibis

Given the Quadro will work with AQ software it will have the ability to set the fan speed based off a virtual temp sensor. Thus I could take all my HDDs that a single fan is cooling and then average their temps to use as a set point. I could also use a room temp sensor to get the ambient and instead base my fans off a delta so they will be more consistent with the changing seasons. I am not aware of any stand alone fan controllers with anything close to the level of control as the AQ software allows.

On a related note you can put two of these on an Aquaero allowing you to add more fan channels at a much lower price point. This is something that people have been waiting a long time for.


----------



## GTXJackBauer

The Quadro isn't just a fan hub. It's a lot more than that. It's literally a mini AQ with some features missing at a bargain price imho and cheaper than running a Corsair Commander + Lighting node. I believe it also works with the Aquasuite but don't know if you're able to get a license included with it. Maybe Shoggy can shed some light on that.


----------



## Aenra

Flamso? It's called reading comprehension, and it's imperative for any forum participation 
I wasn't talking about AQ's pricing, i was talking about the Quadro's pricing. If my actually stating that i was talking about the Quadro's pricing wasn't enough for you, my additionally mentioning its 40euro price tag should have helped point you in the right direction.
And i quoted Zero for a reason, context is also important when having a conversation; for the general/intended product usage (ie RGB included), pricing seems fine to me. Except again, not what the conversation was about.

As to GTXJack, according to the product description it comes with one license key:
" _This product contains a license for the current version of the aquasuite software and for the following annual version. Please note that an internet connection is required for the installation and activation of the software. Further information about the licensing and activation of the aquasuite software can be found here_ "
https://shop.aquacomputer.de/produc...=3773&XTCsid=v7i0hdnif3geqrvo4ld32mdrd36ktm9p


----------



## GTXJackBauer

Thanks for the info Aenra. 

Here's more info on the $40 Quadro.



> QUADRO
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> QUADRO is the next generation of an autonomously working smart control for fans and LEDs.
> The device combines a 4-channel PWM fan controller including monitoring functions with a RGBpx LED controller in a compact housing. QUADRO can be used universally in any PC, no matter if water or air cooling is used.
> 
> In combination with the aquasuite software, QUADRO becomes a powerful monitoring instrument.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Power
> Up to 25 watts can be connected to each of the four fan channels, which corresponds to a total output of generous 100 watts. An overload protection for all channels prevents the QUADRO's fan electronics from being damaged in the event of operating mistakes.
> 
> Each channel can be switched off completely if required. This is a special feature since the 12 volt voltage is normally permanently applied to PWM outputs. An optionally adjustable start boost allows the fans to start in a reliable manner. The start boost is executed until a speed signal is detected at the corresponding output.
> 
> 
> 
> Monitoring
> Four analogue temperature sensors and a flow sensor can be connected to QUADRO. Eight additional sensor values can be transferred from the computer to the QUADRO in the form of software sensors. For example, it is possible to control outputs directly according to the CPU or GPU temperature or to visualize the load by using LED strips.
> 
> 
> Control
> Each fan output can be configured individually. In addition to manual settings of the output power, automatic control is also possible. A setpoint controller with temperature setting and a curve controller are available. For the setpoint controller the desired temperature is being is set and the fan is controlled automatically as required. Experienced users can also optionally adjust the PID controller settings. The curve controller defines a power curve with temperature and power values via 16 freely adjustable points.


----------



## Aenra

zeroibis said:


> sensor


And custom curves, and averages, and even more tables and diagrams and online monitoring and complications 
As always and no offense, i'd ask the same old question: Are you doing this, all of this, for the OCD/geek inside(tm) you or are you in some highly sensitive, very specific environment where demands are higher than anyone else's? High enough that a milisecond of 2 degrees higher a Delta may be catastrophic?
/rhetorical

Now regarding sensors and AQ readouts, temp-related or otherwise, you don't need a Quadro to do any of that; as i'm sure you're well aware of. Which in turns implies that my question to you still stands.
If it wasn't for the fact that rhetory aside, we already appear to have an answer.

I want it/i like making my life complicated because whatever reason? That's one thing. 
40euro when all i need is a fan hub, that's something else.

Reason, and preference. The latter is respected, the former however is a prerequisite.


----------



## Flamso

Aenra said:


> Flamso? It's called reading comprehension, and it's imperative for any forum participation
> I wasn't talking about AQ's pricing, i was talking about the Quadro's pricing. If my actually stating that i was talking about the Quadro's pricing wasn't enough for you, my additionally mentioning its 40euro price tag should have helped point you in the right direction.
> And i quoted Zero for a reason, context is also important when having a conversation; for the general/intended product usage (ie RGB included), pricing seems fine to me. Except again, not what the conversation was about.
> 
> As to GTXJack, according to the product description it comes with one license key:
> " _This product contains a license for the current version of the aquasuite software and for the following annual version. Please note that an internet connection is required for the installation and activation of the software. Further information about the licensing and activation of the aquasuite software can be found here_ "
> https://shop.aquacomputer.de/produc...=3773&XTCsid=v7i0hdnif3geqrvo4ld32mdrd36ktm9p


Sure, for just a fan controller the Quadro is a strange choice. Except if you want the RGB functions which seems to be the whole purpose of the product.


----------



## GTXJackBauer

Flamso said:


> Sure, for just a fan controller the Quadro is a strange choice. Except if you want the RGB functions which seems to be the whole purpose of the product.


I completely disagree. It's not a strange fan controller. Nothing strange about it other than being another more affordable PWM controller that can control a whole array of things. 

I think you're misguided and need to read up more about this topic. Could be your translator is broken and making you sound strange.


----------



## Flamso

GTXJackBauer said:


> Flamso said:
> 
> 
> 
> Sure, for just a fan controller the Quadro is a strange choice. Except if you want the RGB functions which seems to be the whole purpose of the product.
> 
> 
> 
> I completely disagree. It's not a strange fan controller. Nothing strange about it other than being another more affordable PWM controller that can control a whole array of things.
> 
> I think you're misguided and need to read up more about this topic. Could be your translator is broken and making you sound strange.
Click to expand...

Err... I wrote that is was a strange choice for being used as just a fan controller. After all, it is marketed for RGB fans and strips.

It'll probably still work just as fine as an Aquaero.


----------



## war4peace

Flamso said:


> After all, it is marketed for RGB fans and strips.


Says who?
I saw it as a mini-Aquaero with RGBpx features.


----------



## broodro0ster

war4peace said:


> Says who?
> I saw it as a mini-Aquaero with RGBpx features.


Yea me too. Great little device for smaller loops or guys that don't need a full blown AQ6.


----------



## Amphetamine

Shoggy said:


> aquabus will give you no access to the RGBpx features.



I really just want to extend the number of PWM fan headers I can control. If I did run it via USB would I be able to use make use of the sensors on the 5LT as sources for curves on the Quadro? The quadro on it's own wouldn't have enough sensors for how I want to configure it.


----------



## GTXJackBauer

Amphetamine said:


> I really just want to extend the number of PWM fan headers I can control. If I did run it via USB would I be able to use make use of the sensors on the 5LT as sources for curves on the Quadro? The quadro on it's own wouldn't have enough sensors for how I want to configure it.





> QUADRO as aquabus expansion
> In addition to being used as an autonomous USB fan controller, QUADRO can also be used as an aquabus extension for an aquaero 5/6. In this case the four QUADRO fan outputs as well as the four temperature sensor ports and the flow sensor port are available to the control and monitoring features of the aquaero. A maximum of two QUADRO units can be connected to an aquaero.


https://forum.aquacomputer.de/weite...08444-new-quadro-and-rgbpx-splitty4/?cc18c66d


----------



## gamefoo21

Here I am cursing the Quadro because I have AQ 6LT and it's waaaay overkill for my purposes. Guess it'll upgrade with me... lol


----------



## Shoggy

Amphetamine said:


> I really just want to extend the number of PWM fan headers I can control. If I did run it via USB would I be able to use make use of the sensors on the 5LT as sources for curves on the Quadro? The quadro on it's own wouldn't have enough sensors for how I want to configure it.


QUADRO can also handle up to eight software sensors. These values could also come from other devices like an aquaero.


----------



## Amphetamine

Shoggy said:


> Amphetamine said:
> 
> 
> 
> I really just want to extend the number of PWM fan headers I can control. If I did run it via USB would I be able to use make use of the sensors on the 5LT as sources for curves on the Quadro? The quadro on it's own wouldn't have enough sensors for how I want to configure it.
> 
> 
> 
> QUADRO can also handle up to eight software sensors. These values could also come from other devices like an aquaero.
Click to expand...

So what happens during boot if I'm using a virtual sensor from the 5LT as the source for a curve on the Quadro? The devices aren't physically connected and the software agent isn't loaded yet, is there an option to set a fail over in these circumstances?


----------



## zeroibis

Amphetamine said:


> So what happens during boot if I'm using a virtual sensor from the 5LT as the source for a curve on the Quadro? The devices aren't physically connected and the software agent isn't loaded yet, is there an option to set a fail over in these circumstances?


I have an existing case with the 6LT where I use a virtual sensor for a curve and it can not calculate it unless the system is booted up. In my case it is because I am taking the water temp value from my pump and I have it connected via USB instead of the AQ interface. When cold booting my fans will run at 100% until the software loads and the virtual temp value can be calculated. When rebooting they usually hold their last speed until reboot completes. 

Question on connecting Quadro via USB, does this bypass the 2 unit limit when used with the Aquearo? If I connect multiple Quadros via USB how many can I have installed with my 6LT at the same time?

We may have finally entered a new world where we can have some crazy amounts of fan channels on builds.


----------



## Shoggy

*@zeroibis:* You can connect and mix as many US devices as you want. The only limits are the USB root hubs of the mainboard. They can handle only 255 devices per root hub 

*@Amphetamine:* You can can set a fallback value for software sensors if they can not be accessed. 

I have attached some more screenshots from the menus, so maybe that provides a better overview what can be done with QUADRO.


----------



## zeroibis

*UNLIMITED PWM FAN CHANELS @ $12.5/ch 

The day has come!

Now with relatively low cost per PWM channel it is going to be really great for those with huge builds and tons of fans. This also will help the issues created when adding a ton of PWM fans to a single channel. 

Very exciting!


----------



## Amphetamine

That's brilliant, thank you @Shoggy I can keep my delta curves AND have the RGBpx to play with as well  Maybe when I have a go at 3d printing brackets and housing/cover for all this stuff I'll try to have the Aquacomputer logo on the top in transparent with RGB around the inside edge of it.


----------



## gamefoo21

zeroibis said:


> *UNLIMITED PWM FAN CHANELS @ $12.5/ch
> 
> The day has come!
> 
> Now with relatively low cost per PWM channel it is going to be really great for those with huge builds and tons of fans. This also will help the issues created when adding a ton of PWM fans to a single channel.
> 
> Very exciting!


That is very much so, it would be nice to be able to control each and every fan individually.


----------



## E-curbi

Ok, when can we get a Quadro in the US? Aquatuning or PPCS?

30days from now?

Want one for the platform transfer M10A to M11E in August September, Oh Yea! :thumb:

My build is stripped down for speed and silence! Only running (3) fans on the entire rig all PWM, (2) tuned with the Aquaero 6 LT to inaudible and workstation graphics card fan tuned with Afterburner to inaudible. 

Will the Quadro offer the same fine-incremental pwm fan tuning as the Aquaero 6? 

Just look at those graphics card temps, ahhh a thing of beauty. The Vision External is a brilliant little device by the way.

Could actually drop down to only (2) fans in the rig since the 15000K rpm Sanyo Denki 40mm fan in the Supermicro 8-bay drive cage is only cooling SSDs so entirely unnecessary. The AQ6 drops the 15K server fan way down to 1200rpms inaudible. *So much love for that Aquaero 6 LT*, it can handle any fan I throw at it, and move it into an inaudible range.

My PSU doesn't even have a fan, what a crazy build. LOL 

So I guess that's my question, is the Quadro able to move a 15,000rpm fan down to 1,200rpms like the Aquaero 6 OR will the fan simply stop spinning at 5,000rpms and the Quadro NOT ABLE to handle the low range of all PWM fans enthusiast and industrial?


----------



## Amphetamine

gamefoo21 said:


> That is very much so, it would be nice to be able to control each and every fan individually.


I'm not sure I'd want to control the curves of every fan in my system individually, but having staggered spin up temeratures on a vertical coloum of fans on a radiator would look cool in a show case.


----------



## GTXJackBauer

zeroibis said:


> *UNLIMITED PWM FAN CHANELS @ $12.5/ch
> 
> The day has come!
> 
> Now with relatively low cost per PWM channel it is going to be really great for those with huge builds and tons of fans. This also will help the issues created when adding a ton of PWM fans to a single channel.
> 
> Very exciting!


Exactly! That was my point in my previous posts. Great news for everyone. 

Those who couldn't afford a AQ5/6 could at least be able to get into the game now at a very nice price w/ software license included.


----------



## broodro0ster

@Shoggy: Can you setup virtual sensor with the Quadro so you can calculate the water to air delta? I don't see it in the screenshots, so I guess not, but that would make it a really powerful device.

I bought my AQ6 only 6 weeks ago, but I'm really happy I did. I can't think of ever going back to the mobo controls/speedfan.


----------



## gammagoat

I think I'd like to have one of these, but I am not sure which model to get the 5 or 6LT. Everything I have is in a custom wooden case that is remote, so I dont need the screen or any kind of manual control.

Maybe someone can help me decide.

Here is what I have,

[email protected] vcore 1.45
Hero X
1080Ti @ 2062 1.043v - feel there is more OC here.

Cooling current - Hwlabs GTS 560mm rad - EVGA FX13 Fans - x4
CPU- XSPC Raystorm pro 
MCP655-B pump - x1
NF-A14 Case fans - X2

Near future:
A second Hwlabs GTS 560mm rad with EVGA FX13 Fans - x4
NF-A14 fans - X4
NexXxos GPX solo waterblock
Possibly another MCP655-B 

So I would think that the 6lt is the way to go, considering 18 fans and possibly two pumps. Can I run two pumps with the 5?

What say you?

Anything else I should consider?


----------



## grumf

Another question on the Quadro, want to double check in case I fry something.

Does the USB connection require 4 or 5 pins? Reading the quick start guide, section 4.4 says pin 1 not connected, I assume this is referring to the second ground (thicker black wire)?

The reason I ask is because I have currently connected a hubby7 to the motherboard via the 5 pin usb2.0 connector. Beneath the 5 pin usb2.0 my motherboard also has 4 pins ( +5v, D-, D+, GND) , I assume I can use this for the quadro?

Alternatively can I just connect it to the hubby7?

Thanks


----------



## broodro0ster

gammagoat said:


> I think I'd like to have one of these, but I am not sure which model to get the 5 or 6LT. Everything I have is in a custom wooden case that is remote, so I dont need the screen or any kind of manual control.
> 
> Maybe someone can help me decide.
> 
> Here is what I have,
> 
> [email protected] vcore 1.45
> Hero X
> 1080Ti @ 2062 1.043v - feel there is more OC here.
> 
> Cooling current - Hwlabs GTS 560mm rad - EVGA FX13 Fans - x4
> CPU- XSPC Raystorm pro
> MCP655-B pump - x1
> NF-A14 Case fans - X2
> 
> Near future:
> A second Hwlabs GTS 560mm rad with EVGA FX13 Fans - x4
> NF-A14 fans - X4
> NexXxos GPX solo waterblock
> Possibly another MCP655-B
> 
> So I would think that the 6lt is the way to go, considering 18 fans and possibly two pumps. Can I run two pumps with the 5?
> 
> What say you?
> 
> Anything else I should consider?


I'd go with the 6 LT since it has more PWM channels (4 in total)
That is also what I run and I have 2 360 radiators, 1 D5 pump, 2 case fans and 5 temp sensors.

I use a PWM header for the pump (EK D5 PWM gen2), 1 header for the case fans, 1 header for the top radiator and 1 header for the front radiator. I run slightly different fan speeds on the radiator because the top radiator is noisier at the same fan speeds.



grumf said:


> Another question on the Quadro, want to double check in case I fry something.
> 
> Does the USB connection require 4 or 5 pins? Reading the quick start guide, section 4.4 says pin 1 not connected, I assume this is referring to the second ground (thicker black wire)?
> 
> The reason I ask is because I have currently connected a hubby7 to the motherboard via the 5 pin usb2.0 connector. Beneath the 5 pin usb2.0 my motherboard also has 4 pins ( +5v, D-, D+, GND) , I assume I can use this for the quadro?
> 
> Alternatively can I just connect it to the hubby7?
> 
> Thanks


It's 4 pins, but it doesn't matter if you mobo connector is 4 or 5 pins. The 5th pin won't be connected, but it's not needed.


----------



## d0mmie

broodro0ster said:


> I'd go with the 6 LT since it has more PWM channels (4 in total)
> That is also what I run and I have 2 360 radiators, 1 D5 pump, 2 case fans and 5 temp sensors.
> 
> I use a PWM header for the pump (EK D5 PWM gen2), 1 header for the case fans, 1 header for the top radiator and 1 header for the front radiator. I run slightly different fan speeds on the radiator because the top radiator is noisier at the same fan speeds.
> 
> 
> It's 4 pins, but it doesn't matter if you mobo connector is 4 or 5 pins. The 5th pin won't be connected, but it's not needed.


Did you just confirm that the latest models of EKWB D5 PWM pumps are Aquabus compatible, or did I read that totally out of context?


----------



## broodro0ster

d0mmie said:


> Did you just confirm that the latest models of EKWB D5 PWM pumps are Aquabus compatible, or did I read that totally out of context?


No, it's not Aquabus compatible, but it is PWM compatible. So my pump shows up under the fans tab, but that's not a big issue for me. Just set it to PWM and fill in a minimum and maximum speed. 
And then on the controller tab you can add a controller and attach your pump to it.


----------



## Shoggy

E-curbi said:


> Will the Quadro offer the same fine-incremental pwm fan tuning as the Aquaero 6?
> 
> (...)
> 
> So I guess that's my question, is the Quadro able to move a 15,000rpm fan down to 1,200rpms like the Aquaero 6 OR will the fan simply stop spinning at 5,000rpms and the Quadro NOT ABLE to handle the low range of all PWM fans enthusiast and industrial?


That depends on the fan and has not much to do with the controller. The PWM signal is a standardized thing. So if the fan (its internal electronic) was programmed to run at 1.200 rpm at the lower levels, the aquaero and QUADRO can set it to this value of corse.



broodro0ster said:


> @Shoggy: Can you setup virtual sensor with the Quadro so you can calculate the water to air delta? I don't see it in the screenshots, so I guess not, but that would make it a really powerful device.


QUADRO does not support virtual temperature sensors.



grumf said:


> Does the USB connection require 4 or 5 pins? Reading the quick start guide, section 4.4 says pin 1 not connected, I assume this is referring to the second ground (thicker black wire)?


It does not matter for any USB device because the 5th pin is just another connection to ground or it is not connected at all. The ports on the mainboard are 4+5 pins to have the correct orientation for suitable cables like for the USB ports of a case for example.


----------



## sinnedone

Shoggy said:


> Definitely not normal. You should try to disable the hardware monitoring in service tab of the aquasuite. If the problem is still there, disable the audio and video analyzing in the audio and video tab.
> 
> If you succeed with the hardware monitoring you should enable/disable the hardware groups step by step to tell which of them seems to cause the problem in your case.



I disabled all monitoring and memory usage has stayed at about 63MB. I will try enabling them one by one to see which one causes the extra use of memory. (video and audio analyzing was checked off by default)


----------



## Buford458

Question I bought the black face plate for my Aquero 6 XT but it didn't come with black screws. I went through all my spare stuff and nothing close. Anyone know the thread pitch of these screws?


----------



## Buford458

Here is a photo.


----------



## GTXJackBauer

Buford458 said:


> Question I bought the black face plate for my Aquero 6 XT but it didn't come with black screws. I went through all my spare stuff and nothing close. Anyone know the thread pitch of these screws?


Here's what you'll need.

http://www.performance-pcs.com/e22-black-m3-x-6mm-countersunk-screws-4-pack.html


----------



## Buford458

GTXJackBauer said:


> Here's what you'll need.
> 
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/e22-black-m3-x-6mm-countersunk-screws-4-pack.html


Thank you.


----------



## zeroibis

Shoggy said:


> QUADRO does not support virtual temperature sensors.


So this means that you could not set it to use something like CPU temp or anything other than a physical sensor?

Will it support virtual temp sensors via USB if an AQ is present in the system?

Will it support virtual temp sensors via AQ Bus?


Well so much for this product, the only real value in this thing would have been virtual temp sensor so that you could average the temps. Not very useful otherwise. Also depending on the answers to the questions above it could be virtually useless as an addon for existing aquaero owners. 

Very disappointing to not see virtual temp sensor support on this as there is no reason other than artificially limiting its capabilities.


----------



## Ashcroft

Buford458 said:


> Question I bought the black face plate for my Aquero 6 XT but it didn't come with black screws. I went through all my spare stuff and nothing close. Anyone know the thread pitch of these screws?



I use button head m3 x 5 for my Aq6 Pro


----------



## kot0005

BTW I made a 3d printable LED strip holder for aqualis 450ml reservoir, no ugly logos like the one AC sells on their store. Will probably cost more to put it together by ur self but its worth it. I used a normal 5050 RGB strip and fits perfectly. You can fit a standard rgb 5050 strip with 15LED's divided in 5 sections of the strip. Dont have a addressable strip so I cant tell how many will fit.

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3016323

Also made a holder for the external Vision, use double sided tape. It plugs into aqualis reservoir stop plugs with allen holes.


https://www.thingiverse.com/kot0005


I would also have designed an external enclosure for Aquaero 6XT but too lazy because I am using my Aquaero


----------



## skingun

My MPS 400 leaked 😞 lasted about 18 months.


----------



## broodro0ster

zeroibis said:


> So this means that you could not set it to use something like CPU temp or anything other than a physical sensor?
> 
> Will it support virtual temp sensors via USB if an AQ is present in the system?
> 
> Will it support virtual temp sensors via AQ Bus?
> 
> 
> Well so much for this product, the only real value in this thing would have been virtual temp sensor so that you could average the temps. Not very useful otherwise. Also depending on the answers to the questions above it could be virtually useless as an addon for existing aquaero owners.
> 
> Very disappointing to not see virtual temp sensor support on this as there is no reason other than artificially limiting its capabilities.


No, CPU temps etc are software sensor. A virtual sensor is a calculation between 2 or more sensors. For example "ambient - water temp" or the average of 2 sensors. 
And ofcourse, if you pair it with an Aquaero, you will get access to the sensor info the AQ6, so you will have access to the virtual sensors if paired with an AQ6. Just read Shoggy's previous posts on the Quadro in this thread. He explained it very well and added a bunch of screenshots.


----------



## jvillaveces

zeroibis said:


> So this means that you could not set it to use something like CPU temp or anything other than a physical sensor?
> 
> Will it support virtual temp sensors via USB if an AQ is present in the system?
> 
> Will it support virtual temp sensors via AQ Bus?
> 
> 
> Well so much for this product, the only real value in this thing would have been virtual temp sensor so that you could average the temps. Not very useful otherwise. Also depending on the answers to the questions above it could be virtually useless as an addon for existing aquaero owners.
> 
> Very disappointing to not see virtual temp sensor support on this as there is no reason other than artificially limiting its capabilities.


What you are referring to are "software sensors". Virtual sensors are the result of mathematical operations (difference, sum, average) of hardware and/or software sensors.


----------



## Shoggy

zeroibis said:


> So this means that you could not set it to use something like CPU temp or anything other than a physical sensor?
> 
> Will it support virtual temp sensors via USB if an AQ is present in the system?
> 
> Will it support virtual temp sensors via AQ Bus?
> 
> Well so much for this product, the only real value in this thing would have been virtual temp sensor so that you could average the temps. Not very useful otherwise. Also depending on the answers to the questions above it could be virtually useless as an addon for existing aquaero owners.
> 
> Very disappointing to not see virtual temp sensor support on this as there is no reason other than artificially limiting its capabilities.


Temperature values from your PC hardware like the CPU are *software sensors* while calculations like an average temperature or A minus B are *virtual sensors.*

The QUADRO supports software temperature sensors but does not support virtual temperature sensors. I think it should not be too surprising that a device that cost more than half less than an aquaero LT does not offer the same functionality.

When QUADRO is combined with an aquaero via aquabus you can use its virtual temperarture sensors to control the outputs of QUADRO.



skingun said:


> My MPS 400 leaked 😞 lasted about 18 months.


You could try to to replace the gasket. Send us an e-mail with your address and we can send you a new one with a letter.


----------



## zeroibis

Ok so we can verify a few things about the QUADRO. 

It can read software sensors which is nice.

It can not perform simple match because being able to perform such complex calculations like averaging or subtraction clearly costs twice as much money. (come on we all know this is a joke)

You can use virtual temp sensors when connected via aquabus.

You CAN NOT use virtual temp sensors when connected via USB, even if you have an aquaero. 

Unfortunately, the potential of this device is significantly limited as a result of this. As started by someone earlier in their thread that I brushed off it is basically just a really expensive fan controller with rbg basically not anything more useful then features that come standard on some motherboards today. This would be different if it had the ability to use virtual temp sensors as that is the one thing that nothing else can do.

Its potential value as an add-on for your aquaero is artificially limited as given it only supports virtual temp sensors via aquabus you are limited to installing a max of two in your system. If it worked via USB you could buy as many as your USB could support. 

Look I can understand the want to milk money. But there is no reason the cripple the device under the hopes it will boots sales for the aquaero. Instead it would be smarter to sell some keys at a reasonable price to unlock these extra features. 

I mean I am still going to buy at least two, but that is it, as anymore is of no use. The QUADRO could have been a nice standalone aircooling product if it could use a virtual sensor to average temperatures for when a single fan is cooling multiple HDDs for example. However, no reasonable person is going to be spending $50 to get features they already likely have baked into their motherboard. I think a software unlock key like they have sold for some of their other products may be a possible solution but we will see.


----------



## broodro0ster

zeroibis said:


> You CAN NOT use virtual temp sensors when connected via USB, even if you have an aquaero.


You can access your delta T from the Aquaero via the software sensors on the Quadro if you're using USB.


----------



## GTXJackBauer

zeroibis said:


> Ok so we can verify a few things about the QUADRO.
> 
> It can read software sensors which is nice.
> 
> It can not perform simple match because being able to perform such complex calculations like averaging or subtraction clearly costs twice as much money. (come on we all know this is a joke)
> 
> You can use virtual temp sensors when connected via aquabus.
> 
> You CAN NOT use virtual temp sensors when connected via USB, even if you have an aquaero.
> 
> Unfortunately, the potential of this device is significantly limited as a result of this. As started by someone earlier in their thread that I brushed off it is basically just a really expensive fan controller with rbg basically not anything more useful then features that come standard on some motherboards today. This would be different if it had the ability to use virtual temp sensors as that is the one thing that nothing else can do.
> 
> Its potential value as an add-on for your aquaero is artificially limited as given it only supports virtual temp sensors via aquabus you are limited to installing a max of two in your system. If it worked via USB you could buy as many as your USB could support.
> 
> Look I can understand the want to milk money. But there is no reason the cripple the device under the hopes it will boots sales for the aquaero. Instead it would be smarter to sell some keys at a reasonable price to unlock these extra features.
> 
> I mean I am still going to buy at least two, but that is it, as anymore is of no use. The QUADRO could have been a nice standalone aircooling product if it could use a virtual sensor to average temperatures for when a single fan is cooling multiple HDDs for example. However, no reasonable person is going to be spending $50 to get features they already likely have baked into their motherboard. I think a software unlock key like they have sold for some of their other products may be a possible solution but we will see.


Look at it this way. Why would they undermine and butcher their existing products? I'm sure they could add the virtual sensor to the QUADRO but it would make no sense for the company's bottom line to do so. Everyone would just purchase a QUADRO and leave the rest of their hardware to collect dust and hurt their sales. They have the right to do as they may as you have a right to do as a consumer. Yes I agree it would have been nice if it had most of the things the AQ has but understand it from their perspective as well.

I still think it's a viable and affordable controller compared to their competitors.


----------



## Aenra

zeroibis said:


> Look I can understand the want to milk money


Am i the reader whose post you alluded to? 
Regardless, am not sure you're looking at it the right way; my understanding (mentioned in said same post by me by the way) is that this has nothing to do with the kind of "fancy" stuff you boys are after. 

It's a fan hub. It's an RGB controller. It's both in a tiny package and with the guarantee it works (which isn't a given with these things, take my word for it). Cherry on top, it has some noticeably high powerage limit, above what you can find elsewhere. Ergo less cable clutter.
The rest is extra, what they could add to the pile.

(as to your virtual sensors thing, did you take even a second to wonder if it's possible to transmit a pulse through USB, via motherboard, to a third, and external at that, device? While keeping it 'pure' enough to be readable? Or delivered fast enough come to that? The AQ must be capable of reading multiple pulses, meaning at set time intervals; maybe there's a latency issue instead? Am guessing you didn't)*
* don't know myself, just saying.

All things with moderation. They've a different gizmo providing virtual sensors if that's what one's after. This is an RGB+fan controller with extras, not a mini Aquaero (and they have that too btw, the LT variant).


----------



## VeritronX

I don't see what the problem is, the quadro is still one of the more useful controllers you can buy.. It supports 4 PWM channels and 4 temp sensors, and has set point PID control available for each channel along with configurable starting options and can function without needing background software running on the pc. It does everything I wanted an aquaero 6 or but with the benefit of not having to mod my case to fit it.


----------



## apw63

kot0005 said:


> BTW I made a 3d printable LED strip holder for aqualis 450ml reservoir, no ugly logos like the one AC sells on their store. Will probably cost more to put it together by ur self but its worth it. I used a normal 5050 RGB strip and fits perfectly. You can fit a standard rgb 5050 strip with 15LED's divided in 5 sections of the strip. Dont have a addressable strip so I cant tell how many will fit.


Could you post a picture of this installed please. I’m interested in using this.


----------



## jvillaveces

zeroibis said:


> Ok so we can verify a few things about the QUADRO.
> 
> It can read software sensors which is nice.
> 
> It can not perform simple match because being able to perform such complex calculations like averaging or subtraction clearly costs twice as much money. (come on we all know this is a joke)
> 
> You can use virtual temp sensors when connected via aquabus.
> 
> You CAN NOT use virtual temp sensors when connected via USB, even if you have an aquaero.
> 
> Unfortunately, the potential of this device is significantly limited as a result of this. As started by someone earlier in their thread that I brushed off it is basically just a really expensive fan controller with rbg basically not anything more useful then features that come standard on some motherboards today. This would be different if it had the ability to use virtual temp sensors as that is the one thing that nothing else can do.
> 
> Its potential value as an add-on for your aquaero is artificially limited as given it only supports virtual temp sensors via aquabus you are limited to installing a max of two in your system. If it worked via USB you could buy as many as your USB could support.
> 
> Look I can understand the want to milk money. But there is no reason the cripple the device under the hopes it will boots sales for the aquaero. Instead it would be smarter to sell some keys at a reasonable price to unlock these extra features.
> 
> I mean I am still going to buy at least two, but that is it, as anymore is of no use. The QUADRO could have been a nice standalone aircooling product if it could use a virtual sensor to average temperatures for when a single fan is cooling multiple HDDs for example. However, no reasonable person is going to be spending $50 to get features they already likely have baked into their motherboard. I think a software unlock key like they have sold for some of their other products may be a possible solution but we will see.


Actual information about the Quadro and its place in the product lineup won't male any difference, because this character seems to be more interested in arguing than information...


----------



## Andrew LB

zeroibis said:


> You CAN NOT use virtual temp sensors when connected via USB, even if you have an aquaero.



Clearly you have difficulty reading. Or you ignored what Shoggy just said on purpose.



> Its potential value as an add-on for your aquaero is artificially limited as given it only supports virtual temp sensors via aquabus you are limited to installing a max of two in your system. If it worked via USB you could buy as many as your USB could support.



So how many do you need? five? six? you planning on putting 50 fans in your computer? You know these controllers allow for more than one fan per channel right? 




> Look I can understand the want to milk money. But there is no reason the cripple the device under the hopes it will boots sales for the aquaero. Instead it would be smarter to sell some keys at a reasonable price to unlock these extra features.



If they didn't make money, they wouldn't be in business. And entitled crybabies like you wouldn't have anything to b*tch about. 




> However, no reasonable person is going to be spending $50 to get features they already likely have baked into their motherboard. I think a software unlock key like they have sold for some of their other products may be a possible solution but we will see.



It does a lot more than your motherboard can do. If you want all the features, go buy an aquaero. Almost everything sold on the market that isn't the top-of-the-line of a product line will have limited or less features. 





> Actual information about the Quadro and its place in the product lineup won't male any difference, because this character seems to be more interested in arguing than information...



I couldn't agree more.


----------



## zeroibis

Andrew LB said:


> Clearly you have difficulty reading. Or you ignored what Shoggy just said on purpose.


"When QUADRO is combined with an aquaero* via aquabus* you can use its virtual temperarture sensors to control the outputs of QUADRO."

It was also said that you can connect a maximum of two via aquabus earlier.

Clearly *you *have difficulty reading. Or you ignored what Shoggy just said on purpose because you got triggered...

Maybe I missed something?

I am primarily complaining about the seemingly arbitrary limit of being able to only use two of these. I am sorry that I want them to go out of business because I wanted to buy more than two of their products. God forbid lol.

Edit: Looks like I did miss something (although it was posted in response to my post)


broodro0ster said:


> You can access your delta T from the Aquaero via the software sensors on the Quadro if you're using USB.


With this being the case you can use a bunch of them via USB without issue if you have an Aquaero which is awesome!

I am still not a fan of this product as a standalone device as I do not see much value in it compared to what a modern motherboard can do. But hey no opinions here because any descent must be trolling loling.


----------



## Mazdabater

Hey guys, I've just fitted an Aquaaero high flow USB sensor to my loop, it's connected to the pc only via usb and I have updated the firmware for it, but it's not actually showing me a flow rate. Any ideas on what I have wrong?


----------



## d0mmie

Just ordered:

aquaero 6 LT USB fan controller
Mounting material aquaero 5/6 LT for drive bay
Passive heat sink for aquaero 6, black
SPLITTY9 splitter for up to 9 fans or aquabus devices
Calitemp digital temperature sensor internal/external thread G1/4 for aquaero 5/6

Really looking forward to getting it installed, even though I might have to wait a month for it, as a couple of items are in back order. But it's all good.

Currently controlling my cooling using my motherboard with a temp sensor, that isn't very accurate and the Asus BIOS QFAN options seems to be a step control, and not so much a curve control. It's really frustrating controlling the fan speed this way, only option would be to use the Asus AI Suite software, however I really dislike that software. Nothing good will come of it


----------



## Barefooter

d0mmie said:


> Just ordered:
> 
> aquaero 6 LT USB fan controller
> Mounting material aquaero 5/6 LT for drive bay
> Passive heat sink for aquaero 6, black
> SPLITTY9 splitter for up to 9 fans or aquabus devices
> Calitemp digital temperature sensor internal/external thread G1/4 for aquaero 5/6
> 
> Really looking forward to getting it installed, even though I might have to wait a month for it, as a couple of items are in back order. But it's all good.
> 
> Currently controlling my cooling using my motherboard with a temp sensor, that isn't very accurate and the Asus BIOS QFAN options seems to be a step control, and not so much a curve control. It's really frustrating controlling the fan speed this way, only option would be to use the Asus AI Suite software, however I really dislike that software. Nothing good will come of it


That's a nice parts list to start with. There's a learning curve when you first get started... but well worth if once you are dialed in :thumb:


----------



## broodro0ster

d0mmie said:


> Just ordered:
> 
> aquaero 6 LT USB fan controller
> Mounting material aquaero 5/6 LT for drive bay
> Passive heat sink for aquaero 6, black
> SPLITTY9 splitter for up to 9 fans or aquabus devices
> Calitemp digital temperature sensor internal/external thread G1/4 for aquaero 5/6
> 
> Really looking forward to getting it installed, even though I might have to wait a month for it, as a couple of items are in back order. But it's all good.
> 
> Currently controlling my cooling using my motherboard with a temp sensor, that isn't very accurate and the Asus BIOS QFAN options seems to be a step control, and not so much a curve control. It's really frustrating controlling the fan speed this way, only option would be to use the Asus AI Suite software, however I really dislike that software. Nothing good will come of it


Nice! I bought mine 6 weeks ago and I'm very happy with it! A lot better than controlling the fans from my mobo. 
I just setup a target controller for a delta of 9°C and that resulted in a nice and quite setup. I like this a lot better than a fan curve because it doesn't vary fanspeed directly with water temps. I tries to calculate how much heat is put into the water and calculates how fast the fans should spin to achieve your set temp.


----------



## Mazdabater

My room appears to be to small for me to run a delta based loop. If I don't have the ac on the loop seems to stabilise at about 36c with no noise. But it raises the ambient temp of the room by alot lol. I'm running 2 480mm and a 420mm rad.

I was actually amazed at how poor mobo software was for controlling water cooled pc's. I started with the IX formula for my first one thinking the software would be good enough to do it, but its garbage. I'll never be without an aquacomputer after having one.


----------



## broodro0ster

Mazdabater said:


> My room appears to be to small for me to run a delta based loop. If I don't have the ac on the loop seems to stabilise at about 36c with no noise. But it raises the ambient temp of the room by alot lol. I'm running 2 480mm and a 420mm rad.
> 
> I was actually amazed at how poor mobo software was for controlling water cooled pc's. I started with the IX formula for my first one thinking the software would be good enough to do it, but its garbage. I'll never be without an aquacomputer after having one.


Yes, but that's the point of delta T cooling. You don't want the fans to speed up if the room gets warmer. With my setup, the fans need to spin 200rpm faster to get the coolant temperature down by 1°C. 

This means that if I would control my fan curve based on water temps instead of delta T, my fans would be spinning at 400 rpm on a cool day (21°C ambient) and 1600 rpm on a hot day (26C ambient). Anything above 1200 gets too loud for me.

By controlling the fans using the delta temperatures, my fans spin depending on the load generated (0 rpm idle, 750rpm CS:GO, 1050rpm BF1), and my water temps stay always 9°C above ambient. This means that my PC makes the same noises regardless of roomtemps. And if the roomtemp increases with 6°C, my component temps increase 6°C as well, but I don't care to be honest. Even on very hot days like were having now, my GPU is still under 50°C and my CPU doesn't touch 70°C. On normal days (22°C ambient) I'm seeing low 40's for the GPU and low 60's for the CPU.

Just take your time with the software and play with it. There a lot of options and you'll see in the end what you like best. But the target controller based on the Delta T is my favorite for the fans. For the pump I'm using a 2 step controller based on water in/out.


----------



## zeroibis

Exactly, using deltaT is the only way to go for water cooling. Especially in a small room you are going to have large swings in room temp with a gaming rig and using deltaT will allow your fan speeds to be based on the cooling efficiency of the loop rather than the cooling efficiency of your room.


----------



## war4peace

zeroibis said:


> Exactly, using deltaT is the only way to go for water cooling.


Unless you have a ridiculously oversized cooling system such as a MoRa 420... or two 
I have a set point controller looking at liquid temperature with 40 degrees Celsius as target. Right now, with AC on, the 230mm fans on the MoRa spin at 383 RPM (their minimum) and liquid temperature is 40 degrees Celsius, with both my 1080 Ti cards mining cryptocurrencies. If the system is truly idle and the fans are at minimum with AC off, liquid temperature sits at about 30 degrees Celsius and ambient is at 28 degrees.


----------



## zeroibis

war4peace said:


> Unless you have a ridiculously oversized cooling system such as a MoRa 420... or two
> I have a set point controller looking at liquid temperature with 40 degrees Celsius as target. Right now, with AC on, the 230mm fans on the MoRa spin at 383 RPM (their minimum) and liquid temperature is 40 degrees Celsius, with both my 1080 Ti cards mining cryptocurrencies. If the system is truly idle and the fans are at minimum with AC off, liquid temperature sits at about 30 degrees Celsius and ambient is at 28 degrees.


The point of the detla is so that if your room was >40C it would compensate appropriately. In your case you have a bit different use case as your objective is to simply never have coolant temps above 40C which I would say has less to do with how many rads you got and more to do with simply how you want your rig cooled. Nothing wrong with that. My point is just that one having a lot of rads is not a reason alone to not be using delta T. 

How hot do your core temps get on those cards under full load when the coolant temp is 40C?

*Also just noticed your real time data, how do you get that?


----------



## E-curbi

Have (2) Aquaero 6s purchased as XTs red led front panel and blue led front panel, 2013 and 2015, still going very strong never a single hiccup. I converted BOTH my A6s to LT form factor for convenience and for me increased functionality. 

Thought it over long and hard, cannot find a purpose for the new Quadro in either of my builds or an upcoming tertiary build, so planning on skipping it altogether.

It's been almost 5years, and I'm of the mindset more of wanting an updated Aquaero 7 with a dual 5.25in OLED display option, along with a more standard single bay OLED display.

And the control PCB should be able to be connected "at a distance" from either OLED front display we choose, with various length connecting cables, so we can mount and connect our pumps-fans more towards the center or anywhere we like in our builds, not forced to run our cables up to the front panel as with the A6 XT mounting.

And let us buy the components: display, control PCB, remote, connector cables, as separates from Day One.

And we would love a white passive heatsink with black lettering for white accent builds. Please oh please 

Come on Shoggy, give us a brand new Aquaero 7, with our system information served up "Extra Large" with a Dual 5.25in bay OLED display screen. :thumbsups


----------



## broodro0ster

Mazdabater said:


> *Also just noticed your real time data, how do you get that?


There is a web share thing in Aquasuite. Just enable it and choose the sensors that you want to display.
The software automatically generates a link for you that you can use on forums.


----------



## gamefoo21

E-curbi said:


> And the control PCB should be able to be connected "at a distance" from either OLED front display we choose, with various length connecting cables, so we can mount and connect our pumps-fans more towards the center or anywhere we like in our builds, not forced to run our cables up to the front panel as with the A6 XT mounting.
> 
> And let us buy the components: display, control PCB, remote, connector cables, as separates from Day One.


After getting shot down on asking for those parts available to convert an LT, and looking at the licensing stuff for Aquasuite. It appears Aquacomputer actually firmware locks the LT's to not allow them to use the display parts. There's also the mention of using the LCDHype software for using the display software, so there's possibly a licensing cost linked to it.

You can see it in the 'licensing and upgrades', if I remember right... The 6LT and 6Pro are licensed for Aquasuite 2018(assuming you just activated it when 2018 came out, and Aquasuite 2019. While the 6XT in the same situation gets 2018, it also gets free upgrades to 2019, and 2020.

Direct prices in euros without VAT: 6LT: 83.95, 6Pro: 125.97, 6XT: 151.18

6 LT: naked unit, 4 temperature sensor leads, 1 usb cable, 1 aquabus cable, 4 studs/screws, and 1+1 software support(mine came with a manual)
6 Pro: display unit + 3 mechanical buttons, IR sensor, 4 temp sensor leads, 1 usb cable, 1 aquabus cable, bay mounting hardware, a manual, LCDHype software(I think) and 1+1 software support
6 XT: display unit + 3 capacitive buttons touch control, IR sensor 4 temp sensor leads, 1 usb cable, 1 aquabus cable, IR remote control, bay mounting hardware, manual, LCDHype software(I think) and 1+1+1 software support

Overlay glass 5/6Pro: 4.12
Front plate 5/6Pro: 8.32
Bay mounting hardware: 7.48
IR remote control: 12.56
Front cover black 5/6XT: 8.32
1 year upgrade: 9.99(IIRC)

The LT to Pro is a bit of a guessing game, since if we add up the bay mounting kit, overlay glass, and front plate it comes to 19.84. The price difference between the LT and Pro is 42.02... 42.02 - 19.84 = 22.18 euros to cover the cost of the display board, cable, and the license cost if any for the LCDHype software


I used the above because the XT is almost completely costed for the upgrade from the Pro with the software and remote at retail. 25.21 - 9.99 - 12.56 = 2.66 euros to cover the cost of the touch panel upgrade.

That LCDHype software is the only reason I can think that they wouldn't allow users to get the parts to upgrade an LT, and as a result you can't upgrade a Pro to XT.

My one gripe is that the site says mounting materials under the 6LT, I was a little annoyed that it was basically the screws and spacers on the board, I don't think I'm the only one that wouldn't mind paying a buck or two more to have the bay mounting stuff in the box of the LT.


----------



## Aenra

I know i don't think the way most/all of you do, but help me grasp your side here;

Why would i buy a controller if i didn't expect my cabling to actually _end_ in said controller's headers?
More to the point, given how they sell you the PCB, the PCB+HUD, the PCB+HUD+remote, in distinct, separate versions, how..why.. would you find it a requirement to segment their line even further? 

Are you sure it's a controller you're after? 

Personally, i could see why someone would ask for more PWM headers, more RGB lights (god help me) headers, more Aquabus connections perhaps; anything having a practical sense. The above however escape me.


----------



## Mazdabater

I don't think many people would want it to go to a dual bay configuration considering most cases these days don't even have a bay for one. I've got a 1000d and I would have had a hard time mounting a dual bay device in it.


----------



## GTXJackBauer

A external attachable display via usb would be great. Kinda like their small display they already have but much bigger on OLED or LED with color and high res.


----------



## NE0XY

Hey guys,
Just got back home from vacation and there was an update (firmware and aquasuite) that I had to download. But now after this I can't get the background Service running. Aquasuite is running with admin privileges, I've tried rebooting and all the usual jazz. Any trick for getting the service up and running? I remember I've had this issue before but can't remember how I did it.

It says that service is installed but not running. Clicking the Start Service button does nothing. 

Thank you

Edit: When I click the "AquaComputerService" through windows explorer I get a message saying that I can't launch a service from commandline(?) etc, Windows Services needs to be installed first bla bla. (sorry It's in Swedish and I don't know what the English words for some of these things are =P)
Edit2: Task manager says the service is running...


----------



## GTXJackBauer

It's a bug and they are aware of it. They will be working on it as soon as their programmer comes back from vacation.


----------



## tCoLL

Any word on release date for the new pump?


----------



## NE0XY

GTXJackBauer said:


> It's a bug and they are aware of it. They will be working on it as soon as their programmer comes back from vacation.


I see, thanks


----------



## gamefoo21

I have a serious question... After digging through the site again, oogling many fancy and expensive things, and looking at the spare parts available, there's a noticable lack of display parts for the Aquero stuff. I notice that most of the displays for everything else are replaceable though, vision units, etc.

If you had an Aquero 6 Pro or XT, and say a fan channel popped... Could you buy a 6LT and swap the boards and have everything work or do you have to buy at least a Pro?

That'll shut me up on the topic.


----------



## war4peace

zeroibis said:


> The point of the detla is so that if your room was >40C it would compensate appropriately.


A room at 40C is really, REALLY unhealthy. With that being said...



zeroibis said:


> My point is just that one having a lot of rads is not a reason alone to not be using delta T.


I have tried delta T and noticed my measured ambient temperature is changing a lot, perhaps due to bad placement of the ambient sensor. As soon as I redesign my cooling system (again!), I will take care of that aspect as well.



zeroibis said:


> How hot do your core temps get on those cards under full load when the coolant temp is 40C?
> 
> *Also just noticed your real time data, how do you get that?


GPU cores are at 39 and 42-43 degrees respectively, while mining at full load.
As for real time data, you go into _Aquasuite / Aquasuite Web / Data Export_ and choose the data sources you want display. Then switch one entry down to "Data access" and use the URLs to the banners, or embed them directly. Note that the banners are being generated using the first two or first six data sources respectively, in the order you added them, and you can't change their order in the Data export page unless you delete them all and re-add in the order you want.


----------



## skingun

@Shoggy Can the Quadro connect to the low speed aquabus port? I Already have two pumps connected to the high speed port using a splitter and I would like to add a Quadro for more fan channels.

Edit: Just spotted the aquabus X4 for aquaero 5/6 on your website. Can this be used when a passive heatsink is installed?


----------



## VeritronX

If you are overclocking it's better for stability to run set point mode based on water temp, to reduce variables. If you don't change your mounting and the coolant temp is held constant then the only variable that effects your cpu temp is the amount of load it's under / heat it's outputting, and if you run your stability testing at max load then you know it's going to stay stable until you reach the point that the ambient temp is too high for your cooling setup to maintain that target temp.

Sure, the fans will run faster when the room heats up.. by as little as possible to maintain the target temp that your system was tested to be stable at.


----------



## GTXJackBauer

Yup. I enjoy using water temp as my source instead of delta-Ts. I think either or is fine.


----------



## zeroibis

VeritronX said:


> If you are overclocking it's better for stability to run set point mode based on water temp, to reduce variables. If you don't change your mounting and the coolant temp is held constant then the only variable that effects your cpu temp is the amount of load it's under / heat it's outputting, and if you run your stability testing at max load then you know it's going to stay stable until you reach the point that the ambient temp is too high for your cooling setup to maintain that target temp.
> 
> Sure, the fans will run faster when the room heats up.. by as little as possible to maintain the target temp that your system was tested to be stable at.


That is a good point! If you are running a very high and unstable OC you should be extremely worried about max temp variance as your core temps being over by just a degree or two could make a big difference. 

What I do is set my OC with high room temps that are taken as a worst case and then configure my Delta T value so that even in the summer in a worst case situation I know my OC is going to hold. Problem is if you set a really wide deltaT in the winter and come summer those upper bound values are just too high. A lot of this depends on how wide a users acceptable deltaT range before 100% fans kick on.


----------



## zeroibis

skingun said:


> @Shoggy Can the Quadro connect to the low speed aquabus port? I Already have two pumps connected to the high speed port using a splitter and I would like to add a Quadro for more fan channels.
> 
> Edit: Just spotted the aquabus X4 for aquaero 5/6 on your website. Can this be used when a passive heatsink is installed?


I believe it works with the heatsink but regardless the splitty 9 can also be used as an AQ splitter.


----------



## skingun

Thank you @zeroibis. I've got a spare one here so will just use that. Can finally remove my exhaust fan from the motherboard. The controll is crap.


----------



## zeroibis

Just make sure you set the jumper on it to aquabus mode.


----------



## Flamso

kot0005 said:


> BTW I made a 3d printable LED strip holder for aqualis 450ml reservoir, no ugly logos like the one AC sells on their store. Will probably cost more to put it together by ur self but its worth it. I used a normal 5050 RGB strip and fits perfectly. You can fit a standard rgb 5050 strip with 15LED's divided in 5 sections of the strip. Dont have a addressable strip so I cant tell how many will fit.
> 
> https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3016323
> 
> Also made a holder for the external Vision, use double sided tape. It plugs into aqualis reservoir stop plugs with allen holes.
> 
> 
> https://www.thingiverse.com/kot0005
> 
> 
> I would also have designed an external enclosure for Aquaero 6XT but too lazy because I am using my Aquaero


They sell one like that? Do you have a link? I can't seem to find it and it would be awesome in my system since I'm not really a fan of 3D printed parts.


----------



## zeroibis

tCoLL said:


> Any word on release date for the new pump?


Yea, very interested to see what they changed in the new version.


----------



## Gamma52

Hello all, new owner of a 6XT with some questions here:

First off, my setup is as follows: I have 2 sets of 4x140mm Noctuas on my rads that run into a 4 way splitter, that run into fan ports 1 and 2 on the 6XT. 

For pumps, I have 2x of the EK D5 PWM G2 pumps that occupy fan ports 3 and 4. I know a few pages there was a little talk of the G2 pumps working with PWM but showing up as fans, and requiring a controller page be set up.

My questions are,

Is there any way to get them to be recognized as pumps and not fans?

Given that I can control them with PWM, I do not require the 5.1v zener diode 3.3k/560 resistor mod, correct?

And if I do require the mod, can someone confirm that the ends of both resistors, and the zener diode all get soldered together? It appears that way in the pictures I saw, but I wanted to verify first.

I apologize in advance if I missed something, 11xx pages of forum is a lot of information to sift through, coupled with the learning curve of the aquasuite.

Thanks


----------



## socialite2dot0

Hell everyone,

I'm in the process of diving into setting up a dual loop system with with an Aquaero 6XT doing all of my monitoring and handling of fan/pump control. I'd ideally like to install an AQ-53068 Flow sensor inline with each loop, however I only see a single input for the flow sensor on the 6XT. Is there anyway to do this properly and have the sensors report separately.

Please forgive me if this question has already been answered, but searching through the nearly 11k post I was unable to find anything definitive.

Also does anyone know when the Aquacomputer D5 PWM will be back in stock on Aquacomputer's site? They seem to be in short supply as my other source for watercooling gear seems to be out of stock too...


----------



## GTXJackBauer

Gamma52 said:


> Hello all, new owner of a 6XT with some questions here:
> 
> First off, my setup is as follows: I have 2 sets of 4x140mm Noctuas on my rads that run into a 4 way splitter, that run into fan ports 1 and 2 on the 6XT.
> 
> For pumps, I have 2x of the EK D5 PWM G2 pumps that occupy fan ports 3 and 4. I know a few pages there was a little talk of the G2 pumps working with PWM but showing up as fans, and requiring a controller page be set up.
> 
> My questions are,
> 
> Is there any way to get them to be recognized as pumps and not fans?
> 
> Given that I can control them with PWM, I do not require the 5.1v zener diode 3.3k/560 resistor mod, correct?
> 
> And if I do require the mod, can someone confirm that the ends of both resistors, and the zener diode all get soldered together? It appears that way in the pictures I saw, but I wanted to verify first.
> 
> I apologize in advance if I missed something, 11xx pages of forum is a lot of information to sift through, coupled with the learning curve of the aquasuite.
> 
> Thanks


You can only see them under the 'Pumps' tab only if they are the Aquabus Aquacomputer D5 pumps which they don't make no more. 

The EK G2s don't need a mod as they are 'Generation 2' pumps and have the right PWM intel spec. They will show up as fans as most pumps will with the exception of the aquabus D5s from AC.

Are these pumps in two separate loops or both working together in serial because if so, you can get a Swiftech cable splitter that will connect both pump's PWM while getting power from the PSU and use a single PWM header back to the AQ's fan header of your choosing. That's how I have setup my x2 MCP35X DDC pumps. 

Swiftech PWM cable splitter - https://www.swiftech.com/PWMsplittercable.aspx



socialite2dot0 said:


> Hell everyone,
> 
> I'm in the process of diving into setting up a dual loop system with with an Aquaero 6XT doing all of my monitoring and handling of fan/pump control. I'd ideally like to install an AQ-53068 Flow sensor inline with each loop, however I only see a single input for the flow sensor on the 6XT. Is there anyway to do this properly and have the sensors report separately.
> 
> Please forgive me if this question has already been answered, but searching through the nearly 11k post I was unable to find anything definitive.
> 
> Also does anyone know when the Aquacomputer D5 PWM will be back in stock on Aquacomputer's site? They seem to be in short supply as my other source for watercooling gear seems to be out of stock too...


AQ6 has two flow headers. One is the obvious labeled flow header for the sensor and the other, I can't recall exactly which one it is but it's either fan header #1 or #4. I think it's #1 but check with the manual. I use that flow sensor as well and has been great.

As for pumps, I know they stopped making the Aquabus version D5 pump and will be out soon with a new set of pumps so I would just wait for those to come out. They did say towards the end of summer roughly.


----------



## broodro0ster

Gamma52 said:


> Hello all, new owner of a 6XT with some questions here:
> 
> First off, my setup is as follows: I have 2 sets of 4x140mm Noctuas on my rads that run into a 4 way splitter, that run into fan ports 1 and 2 on the 6XT.
> 
> For pumps, I have 2x of the EK D5 PWM G2 pumps that occupy fan ports 3 and 4. I know a few pages there was a little talk of the G2 pumps working with PWM but showing up as fans, and requiring a controller page be set up.
> 
> My questions are,
> 
> Is there any way to get them to be recognized as pumps and not fans?
> 
> Given that I can control them with PWM, I do not require the 5.1v zener diode 3.3k/560 resistor mod, correct?
> 
> And if I do require the mod, can someone confirm that the ends of both resistors, and the zener diode all get soldered together? It appears that way in the pictures I saw, but I wanted to verify first.
> 
> I apologize in advance if I missed something, 11xx pages of forum is a lot of information to sift through, coupled with the learning curve of the aquasuite.
> 
> Thanks


You don't need to mod anything on the EK D5 gen 2 pumps. I know because I have one and it works without problems on my AQ 6 LT.
Unfortunately, it won't show up under pumps. That is only for Aquabus enabled pumps.

If you have 2 pumps for a single, I suggest you to use a splitter so they run always at the same speed. If you have dual loops, then they need their own fan header.

To set them up, go to fans, select the pump and set it to PWM. Then adjust the minimum speed to the point where the pump starts to spin up. I have to set mimimum to 49% on my pump. This is not a required setup, but it will give better control over the pump.
Once you done this, go to the controller tab and a controller that you like and link you pump to it. I prefer a fixed curve or 2 step curve, but it's really what you prefer.


----------



## Gamma52

GTXJackBauer,


It's 2 separate loops in a Thermaltake T900, so one GPU, one CPU/mobo. I'll keep them separate since the 4 headers is just enough to get by, I might have to upgrade in the future though.




Broodro0ster,


Thanks for the input. The posts a few I mentioned a few pages ago was in fact yours, but thank you for the extra information. This is a dual loop setup, so I am keeping the pumps on their own individual headers.




Both of you, thank you. Hopefully this weekend I'll be able to dive deeper into the software, understand it, and get my rig to a stable point.


----------



## broodro0ster

Gamma52 said:


> GTXJackBauer,
> 
> 
> It's 2 separate loops in a Thermaltake T900, so one GPU, one CPU/mobo. I'll keep them separate since the 4 headers is just enough to get by, I might have to upgrade in the future though.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Broodro0ster,
> 
> 
> Thanks for the input. The posts a few I mentioned a few pages ago was in fact yours, but thank you for the extra information. This is a dual loop setup, so I am keeping the pumps on their own individual headers.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Both of you, thank you. Hopefully this weekend I'll be able to dive deeper into the software, understand it, and get my rig to a stable point.


In case you need additional PWM headers in the future, you can connect a QUADRO to the aquabus. 
Goodluck this weekend! Just ask for help in this thread if you want to know something. The software can be a bit overwhelming at first, but just play with it and try everything. You can switch between 4 profiles btw and they can have their own setting. So you use a different profile for testing without having to mess up your working config


----------



## paskowitz

This is a total noob question (I don't own an Aquaero yet), what is the difference between normal 4 pin PWM and an Aquabus port (Aquabuss mode on a Splitty9 for example)? Is it just a matter of more functionality/control for other Aquacomputer products?


----------



## broodro0ster

paskowitz said:


> This is a total noob question (I don't own an Aquaero yet), what is the difference between normal 4 pin PWM and an Aquabus port (Aquabuss mode on a Splitty9 for example)? Is it just a matter of more functionality/control for other Aquacomputer products?


It's a port to communicate with other Aquacomputer devices (pumps, Quadro, ...). The pinout is different from a normal PWM header, so don't try to use it as a 5th PWM channel.


----------



## skingun

When and why did aquacomputer stop makeing the aquabus D5 pumps?


----------



## skingun

Nevermind. I found out they are releasing a eplacent soon. Wonder why though!?


----------



## jvillaveces

broodro0ster said:


> It's a port to communicate with other Aquacomputer devices (pumps, Quadro, ...). The pinout is different from a normal PWM header, so don't try to use it as a 5th PWM channel.


That explains why I haven't been able to use aquabus! I built custom cables, but I went one to one, as in a fan extension. Do you know the correct pinout for 4-pin aquabus cables?


----------



## Aenra

jvillaveces said:


> Do you know the correct pinout for 4-pin aquabus cables?


Hey jvilla, i asked a similar question a while ago, you can download the Quadro's manual and see the pinout yourself if you wish 
(also found elsewhere, but that's where i got it from)


----------



## broodro0ster

jvillaveces said:


> That explains why I haven't been able to use aquabus! I built custom cables, but I went one to one, as in a fan extension. Do you know the correct pinout for 4-pin aquabus cables?


The pin is in the AQ6 manual. I think it's the same connector as a 4 pin fan connector, but the signal isn't the same.


----------



## jvillaveces

Aenra said:


> Hey jvilla, i asked a similar question a while ago, you can download the Quadro's manual and see the pinout yourself if you wish
> (also found elsewhere, but that's where i got it from)


Thank you! I found this:

Pin assignment: 
Pin 1: GND
Pin 2: SDA
Pin 3: SCL
Pin 4: +5 V

Does this mean the aquabus cable has "to" and "from" ends, i.e. one end must go into the mps device and the other into the aquaero? I've never noticed aquacomputer cables to be labeled in any way that would indicate directionality. If they are not directional, then wiring them 1-to-1, as I did, is OK, right?


----------



## Aenra

jvillaveces said:


> right?


Will soon be doing exactly that, but haven't yet 
So while i cannot guarantee it to you, the Aquaero 6 manual lists the exact same connections (both in type and ordering), ergo pin1 to pin1, 2 to 2, etc. should be fine yeah; that's what i'll be doing.

* page 10/53 on your AQ manual if you wanna read it yourself.
** directions you may not get, true, but you will notice they have both 3 and 4pin cables, hence my own question back then, never had to bother before. Apparently that's for an additional 5V rail, where applicable; also in the manual (which i never thought to read before asking, lol).


----------



## Ashcroft

jvillaveces said:


> Thank you! I found this:
> 
> Pin assignment:
> Pin 1: GND
> Pin 2: SDA
> Pin 3: SCL
> Pin 4: +5 V
> 
> Does this mean the aquabus cable has "to" and "from" ends, i.e. one end must go into the mps device and the other into the aquaero? I've never noticed aquacomputer cables to be labeled in any way that would indicate directionality. If they are not directional, then wiring them 1-to-1, as I did, is OK, right?


Yes its just plain 1 to 1 wiring. I use PWM extensions, female to female cables, and some models of PWM splitters/hubs for all my Aquabus stuff. I have also made my own just fine.

Aquabus is a full custom bus standard a little like USB. So with a single cable attached to the Aquaero it can address and individually control multiple devices. 
PWM of course can be used to control multiple devices if they are linked but they would just be sharing the signal, not controlled individually like Aquabus does.

As a note: The splitty device is essentially just a PWM splitter. The switch to change from PWM to Aquabus simply changes the wiring layout from all pins connected on all headers for Aquabus, to all pins connected to only the first header and the rest only 3 pins connected, the rpm pins/ pin 3 specifically, so that only one header reports rpm back to the control device.


----------



## poisson21

has anyone here ever use a bitfenix spectre pro rgb fan with a farbwerk or aquaero? it seems to have classic 5050 smd led without specific controler but i can't find this specific spec and bitfenix didn't answer my mail.


----------



## Amphetamine

Just finished designing and printing these ready for when my Quadro arrives.


Still working out the logistics of how to make a mount/housing for AQ5LT, Quadro, 2x Splitty9 and a Splitty4 that fits in the space I have, still looks nice and still provides airflow to the AQ5LT. Will be sure to post that when I do.


----------



## Amphetamine

@Shoggy So I got my Quadro and Splitty4 today and it doesn't look like I can directly connect them up to the existing IARGB stips that I have. Is it possible for the Quadro to control WS2812B standard IALED strips if I make up my own cables?


----------



## Aenra

More cycles than Halfords, lol.. nice one


----------



## Amphetamine

Aenra said:


> More cycles than Halfords, lol.. nice one


Glad you approve and didn't feel the need to split hairs over it! :thumb:


----------



## gamefoo21

I ordered the digital temp sensors and hub... A week later it seems they shipped...


But... I can't get the tracking number to work, which was tied to my order. *cries*


Edit: Apparently it works on DHL.de but not DHL.com... lol


----------



## Aenra

Amphetamine said:


> Glad you approve and didn't feel the need to split hairs over it! :thumb:


I split a lot of things and not out of need!



gamefoo21 said:


> Apparently it works on DHL.de but not DHL.com... lol


Unless you email them, list your order and request some private courier company, i believe this is their default way of shipping; which of course explains the low cost.


----------



## gamefoo21

Aenra said:


> Unless you email them, list your order and request some private courier company, i believe this is their default way of shipping; which of course explains the low cost.


The thing is that DHL is DHL, but DHL.de is more than just DHL... Also damn ordering from AC isn't cheap. The shipping costs for tiny items are fine, but if you want to group, it starts at 40 Euros, that's a burner and if you dare to pay by PP, they stick you for an additional 1.7%.

I'm also about to get hammered with duties, since the tracking number since it hit Canada, is a CU one, which is what gets assigned when you get to pay.

In summary, I sucked it up, and found out that DHL isn't the samething everywhere. I should have just ordered each part individually, but the one part was too heavy for the cheap shipping option. Bah!


----------



## Aenra

gamefoo21 said:


> The thing is that DHL is DHL, but DHL.de is more than just DHL
> ...
> I'm also about to get hammered with duties


Yeap; parts of the old Deutsche Post and parts of the new, DHL owned, lot; a sad story because Deutsche Post really was Deutsch, on the effing clock as it were (or used to be 'cause i'm a dinosaur, maybe in more recent times things've been different). But that's neither here nor now.

Was talking local/EU; for international shipping, i'd assume it makes sense for higher shipping? As to customs fees, while unfortunate, they've nothing to do with AC. Which yes, am sure you're aware of


----------



## gamefoo21

Aenra said:


> Yeap; parts of the old Deutsche Post and parts of the new, DHL owned, lot; a sad story because Deutsche Post really was Deutsch, on the effing clock as it were (or used to be 'cause i'm a dinosaur, maybe in more recent times things've been different). But that's neither here nor now.
> 
> Was talking local/EU; for international shipping, i'd assume it makes sense for higher shipping? As to customs fees, while unfortunate, they've nothing to do with AC. Which yes, am sure you're aware of


Yeah, it's been a thing I've been watching DHL to Canada get worse to Canada, they used to charge exactly what Canadapost charged for brokerage, now they charge more, and they've outsourced their delivery services to Loomis/Canpar which is the worst of them. Thought interestingly, since it seems that since this is postal DHL, it's been handed over to Canadapost, which is actually a good thing. Interestingly, you still see former 'DHL Express' trucks floating around, in that signature yellow.

On the Effing Clock? I'm not European, so this one is lost on me, do you mind explaining?


I am well aware that customs/duties/taxes on imports aren't AC's doing. But it would be nice if they had something between cheap but super light restricted and expensive. I also have a weird issue with stores that charge a 'fee' for using Paypal, I feel like they are punishing people for optioning for a secure method of payment. I remember when PayPal used to enforce a rule that resellers aren't allowed to do such things. Sort of like how credit card companies punish companies that charge a 'fee' for accepting credit cards, so some sellers offer a 'cash discount'.


----------



## Aenra

gamefoo21 said:


> On the Effing Clock? I'm not European, so this one is lost on me, do you mind explaining?
> ...
> I also have a weird issue with stores that charge a 'fee' for using Paypal


I can't use the 'F' word, i already have 3 warnings? 5 total i think? 
So i type effing, or pipping, mood depending, lol
Anyway, they were P-R-E-C-I-S-E. If they said it'd arrive Monday 10-11am, that's exactly when it'd arrive; you could bet your money on it. I respected that immensely.
(and wildly off topic, but this isn't an isolated occurence; Germany's changed. Like every other country as well, sure, but.. anyway)

Never even noticed that, are you sure it's on AC's side? Because PP does indeed have a tariff on any transaction.
Not doubting you, just asking to make sure, had entirely escape my notice.


----------



## gamefoo21

Aenra said:


> I can't use the 'F' word, i already have 3 warnings? 5 total i think?
> So i type effing, or pipping, mood depending, lol
> Anyway, they were P-R-E-C-I-S-E. If they said it'd arrive Monday 10-11am, that's exactly when it'd arrive; you could bet your money on it. I respected that immensely.
> (and wildly off topic, but this isn't an isolated occurence; Germany's changed. Like every other country as well, sure, but.. anyway)
> 
> Never even noticed that, are you sure it's on AC's side? Because PP does indeed have a tariff on any transaction.
> Not doubting you, just asking to make sure, had entirely escape my notice.


LoL... Ok, that's what I thought it meant. Yeah, Germany has changed, for better and for worse, like everywhere else.

The tariff that Paypal charges is the same as CC interchange rates, it's not free to accept Visa. What I got tagged by is definitely from AC, it's added to the total and is specifically triggered by selecting Paypal. I should also point out that I can't do bank transfers from here to there easily or at all, so my available payment methods are a bit limited.


----------



## Aenra

gamefoo21 said:


> it's added to the total and is specifically triggered by selecting Paypal


Fair enough, will try and remember for next time, thanks 

[transfers i cannot do either, have set it up so that bank accounts and internet do not mix, ever. The only way to do that would be by actually walking inside a bank, which is fine by me. Except to walk, one must first depart the Mancave(tm); now this here step is very problematic, as upon departing said holiest of grounds hallowed be its name, the grand General of this here estanlishment (beatings will continue until morale improves) would probably notice my person. Being noticed is never a good thing, i swear they will aaalways, always, have some or find something for you to do. Wonderful creatures, but very tiring, honestly. The more i fossilise, the more tiring, lol]


----------



## GTXJackBauer

gamefoo21 said:


> Yeah, it's been a thing I've been watching DHL to Canada get worse to Canada, they used to charge exactly what Canadapost charged for brokerage, now they charge more, and they've outsourced their delivery services to Loomis/Canpar which is the worst of them. Thought interestingly, since it seems that since this is postal DHL, it's been handed over to Canadapost, which is actually a good thing. Interestingly, you still see former 'DHL Express' trucks floating around, in that signature yellow.
> 
> On the Effing Clock? I'm not European, so this one is lost on me, do you mind explaining?
> 
> 
> I am well aware that customs/duties/taxes on imports aren't AC's doing. But it would be nice if they had something between cheap but super light restricted and expensive. I also have a weird issue with stores that charge a 'fee' for using Paypal, I feel like they are punishing people for optioning for a secure method of payment. I remember when PayPal used to enforce a rule that resellers aren't allowed to do such things. Sort of like how credit card companies punish companies that charge a 'fee' for accepting credit cards, so some sellers offer a 'cash discount'.


The only one punishing people are your elected officials. Take it up with them and go from there. lol Not saying you specifically but alot of folks jump on the blame the company bandwagon for the prices to their doorstep. The logistics, trade agreements, taxes (how many times is it 'taxed'? lol), duties, tariffs, shipping costs, etc. It surely adds up. Your best bet is to wait a bit longer for the items to arrive to a retailer/etailer in your home country. That's what I usually do.

Also, the packages have to be durable enough to be sent across the pond, let alone nation to nation and that doesn't include the postal centers to and from. Lots of movement on the way.


----------



## gamefoo21

Aenra said:


> Fair enough, will try and remember for next time, thanks
> 
> [transfers i cannot do either, have set it up so that bank accounts and internet do not mix, ever. The only way to do that would be by actually walking inside a bank, which is fine by me. Except to walk, one must first depart the Mancave(tm); now this here step is very problematic, as upon departing said holiest of grounds hallowed be its name, the grand General of this here estanlishment (beatings will continue until morale improves) would probably notice my person. Being noticed is never a good thing, i swear they will aaalways, always, have some or find something for you to do. Wonderful creatures, but very tiring, honestly. The more i fossilise, the more tiring, lol]


Ahh... so you also have a general who gets quite unimpressed with expenses for things they don't directly approve of. It's amazing how orders just materialize out of thin air, with just a glance. Although we both decided to join their forces, though who knew there was so much work involved. lol

They always question why we die first, is it because we want to or is it because we are sent to tidy up the upstairs before they come? lol



GTXJackBauer said:


> The only one punishing people are your elected officials. Take it up with them and go from there. lol Not saying you specifically but alot of folks jump on the blame the company bandwagon for the prices to their doorstep. The logistics, trade agreements, taxes (how many times is it 'taxed'? lol), duties, tariffs, shipping costs, etc. It surely adds up. Your best bet is to wait a bit longer for the items to arrive to a retailer/etailer in your home country. That's what I usually do.
> 
> Also, the packages have to be durable enough to be sent across the pond, let alone nation to nation and that doesn't include the postal centers to and from. Lots of movement on the way.


Well luckily in Canada we have CETA with Europe which has helped drop a lot of the duties, assuming those Italian ****s don't explode it. I felt the burn on duties a few times before. Although that was mostly back when I was importing HD-DVD's because Europe got some amazing copies of things that we'll never see. 

I understand shipping stuffs, I've sent and received enough across oceans to know all about the joys of shipping and packaging resulting in damage. I would have waited, but the only places in Canada that even deal in the AC stuff, weren't going to place another order from AC until Christmas, and I'm just not that patient. lol

The shipping rates are flat(except UPS, jumped from 120 to 220 euros), so my little order that's too big to go in the cheap column, subsidizes the guys who order big heavy stuff. I just checked, the shipping rate for 23KG of stuff is the same as what I paid for less than 1KG of stuff via DP-DHL.


----------



## Aenra

gamefoo21 said:


> It's amazing how orders just materialize out of thin air, with just a glance


This one understands.. lol


----------



## gamefoo21

Aenra said:


> This one understands.. lol


lol

Happy wife, happy life!


----------



## gamefoo21

So my woes with my Aquero 6 LT continue. Seems the factory wasn't content with just wrecking a screw and stand-off, they had to make it so I can't use it. The orange three legged component on the outside edge of the board below the molex connector is sticking up about 2mm too high. I can't tilt it out as it'll interfere with the bay mounting hardware, and I can't tilt it in as the aluminum on the cooler isn't cut back far enough.

I will say right away that Aquacomputer and Shoggy were great to deal with about the crossthreaded hardware, they sent me new bits really quickly and for free.

For the second issue it kind of sucks because if I want to use the heatsink, I can't see anyway of doing it without physically modding the cooler. The result of trying to mount it currently leaving the space is that it's leaving 1.5-2mm of space between the components and the cooler.

So I guess I get to box it all up, and wait for a replacement. I didn't even think to check if the cooler would mount correctly, since it's just not something you think about. So to everyone who gets an Aquero 6 and the passive cooler, make sure to check that it clears the board components before mounting it, as if I would have just bolted it down, I would have destroyed that little orange guy, as two legs are designed to compress' but that center one is straight, so it wouldn't have played nice.

Some measurements:

Edge of board to back of SFC: 3mm
Depth of cut back on cooler: 4mm
Height of SFC from board: 9mm
Height of cut back in cooler: 8.25mm
Gap between feet(cooler) and board: 1mm

I did attempt to push the SFC back into the cut out hoping there was enough space to allow the angle to drop the cooler, but I only gained 0.1mm. I'm guessing it's assembly error as the SFC wasn't inserted into the board straight when it was soldered together.

I wonder if this qualifies for warranty, since it's an add-on part, I certainly hope it's covered. *sigh*


----------



## Barefooter

gamefoo21 said:


> So my woes with my Aquero 6 LT continue. Seems the factory wasn't content with just wrecking a screw and stand-off, they had to make it so I can't use it. The orange three legged component on the outside edge of the board below the molex connector is sticking up about 2mm too high. I can't tilt it out as it'll interfere with the bay mounting hardware, and I can't tilt it in as the aluminum on the cooler isn't cut back far enough.
> 
> I will say right away that Aquacomputer and Shoggy were great to deal with about the crossthreaded hardware, they sent me new bits really quickly and for free.
> 
> For the second issue it kind of sucks because if I want to use the heatsink, I can't see anyway of doing it without physically modding the cooler. The result of trying to mount it currently leaving the space is that it's leaving 1.5-2mm of space between the components and the cooler.
> 
> So I guess I get to box it all up, and wait for a replacement. I didn't even think to check if the cooler would mount correctly, since it's just not something you think about. So to everyone who gets an Aquero 6 and the passive cooler, make sure to check that it clears the board components before mounting it, as if I would have just bolted it down, I would have destroyed that little orange guy, as two legs are designed to compress' but that center one is straight, so it wouldn't have played nice.
> 
> Some measurements:
> 
> Edge of board to back of SFC: 3mm
> Depth of cut back on cooler: 4mm
> Height of SFC from board: 9mm
> Height of cut back in cooler: 8.25mm
> Gap between feet(cooler) and board: 1mm
> 
> I did attempt to push the SFC back into the cut out hoping there was enough space to allow the angle to drop the cooler, but I only gained 0.1mm. I'm guessing it's assembly error as the SFC wasn't inserted into the board straight when it was soldered together.
> 
> I wonder if this qualifies for warranty, since it's an add-on part, I certainly hope it's covered. *sigh*


I had to mod the heatsink with a Dremel tool to get it to fit. Here's the post where I show how to do it.


----------



## gamefoo21

Barefooter said:


> I had to mod the heatsink with a Dremel tool to get it to fit. Here's the post where I show how to do it.


First of all, that's some really work on that build. It makes me really wish I held out and got the black heatsink... It just looks so nice.

I'm in the same boat as you, just like on yours, mine is sitting up and cocked to the side.

I asked a friend who does electronics manufacture and repair for a living, he thinks it's a signal filter cap. He also isn't sure how to get it to fit without cutting stuff, and he told me not to try using the heatsink to compress it because it'll likely damage that little orange guy.

I've dropped Shoggy a message, he mentioned they do tend to sit a little high, but if tipping it into the cut back in the heatsink, I was to send him a picture. So I sent him a picture, and I wait on the follow up.

I remeasured the drop from tipping in the little orange guy, measuring isn't easy at all, but it seems the gap dropped from 1.05mm to 0.95mm.

How hot do yours get during use btw? Just curious too see how much the aluminum helps.


----------



## Barefooter

gamefoo21 said:


> First of all, that's some really work on that build. It makes me really wish I held out and got the black heatsink... It just looks so nice.
> 
> I'm in the same boat as you, just like on yours, mine is sitting up and cocked to the side.
> 
> I asked a friend who does electronics manufacture and repair for a living, he thinks it's a signal filter cap. He also isn't sure how to get it to fit without cutting stuff, and he told me not to try using the heatsink to compress it because it'll likely damage that little orange guy.
> 
> I've dropped Shoggy a message, he mentioned they do tend to sit a little high, but if tipping it into the cut back in the heatsink, I was to send him a picture. So I sent him a picture, and I wait on the follow up.
> 
> Like you, I don't think you should have to pull out a rotary tool or soldering iron to make these fit. How hot do yours get during use btw?


Yeah I for sure did not want to just tighten it down and compress it. Which is why I pulled out the trusty Dremel too :thumb:


----------



## gamefoo21

Barefooter said:


> Yeah I for sure did not want to just tighten it down and compress it. Which is why I pulled out the trusty Dremel too :thumb:


Ninja edit fail! It's what I get for finalizing my thoughts... lol

I don't blame you, I've had things go crack with less compression before.


----------



## war4peace

gamefoo21 said:


> How hot do yours get during use btw? Just curious too see how much the aluminum helps.


You don't need a heatsink to cool an Aquaero 6. It's entirely optional.


----------



## gamefoo21

war4peace said:


> You don't need a heatsink to cool an Aquaero 6. It's entirely optional.


Using anything more than a stock cooler on a CPU is optional too... Less heat = less heat production = longer component life, when it comes to those components, if I remember my correctly.

Guess once I get mine, I'll have to stick one of the thermal probes on it, to monitor just how toasty it gets.


----------



## war4peace

gamefoo21 said:


> Using anything more than a stock cooler on a CPU is optional too... Less heat = less heat production = longer component life, when it comes to those components, if I remember my correctly.
> 
> Guess once I get mine, I'll have to stick one of the thermal probes on it, to monitor just how toasty it gets.


You don't need to. Aquasuite will report temperatures from the Aquaero itself for each PWM channel. Mine never went above 40 degrees Celsius, without heatsinks.
Aquaero 5, though, that's another matter. A heatsink is recommended for it in case you use a lot of power. I loaded the PWM channel on the Aquaero 5 with about 15W of power (8x Noctua fans consuming 1.68W each) and it got to 58 degrees Celsius. I guess loading 30W or more would prove a bit dangerous. But Aquaero 6? No issues there.


----------



## gamefoo21

Barefooter said:


> Yeah I for sure did not want to just tighten it down and compress it. Which is why I pulled out the trusty Dremel too :thumb:


It sounds like I'll be joining the had to mod it to make it fit. I hope you don't mind, but I borrowed a picture and referenced your thread below.



war4peace said:


> You don't need to. Aquasuite will report temperatures from the Aquaero itself for each PWM channel. Mine never went above 40 degrees Celsius, without heatsinks.
> Aquaero 5, though, that's another matter. A heatsink is recommended for it in case you use a lot of power. I loaded the PWM channel on the Aquaero 5 with about 15W of power (8x Noctua fans consuming 1.68W each) and it got to 58 degrees Celsius. I guess loading 30W or more would prove a bit dangerous. But Aquaero 6? No issues there.


Well in my case basically everything is running off voltage control, I went with the Aquaero 6 because I needed PWM to control the pumps, the the other three fan channels are going to be running between 2 - 4 fans initially and possibly more. If I was using PWM to control the fans and not voltage, I would have skipped the heatsink. Since I'm using mostly voltage control, I optioned for the better thermals of mounting the heatsink. Since in my build my Aquaero, is going to be sitting in a place with very little air flow.

Back on to the main topic...

Though it's really kind of depressing, that even after talking to Shoggy, I'm left with three options:

1. A) Use the heatsink to compress the filter legs, if it chips or cracks the outer part it shouldn't affect it. According to Shoggy most sit too high, and this is how they deal with it.
B) If I wasn't using the bay mount hardware, or putting it into a 5 1/4" bay, I could just bend it out to the side. The other suggested fix by Shoggy. I have lined up the bay hardware, and even in the pictures from Barefooter, there's no way to bend the filter out when using the bay mount.

Borrowed a picture from Barefooter's thread:










If I bend it out it'll hook the heatsink, and wedge against the bracket.

2) Suggested and demonstrated by Barefooter, was to take the rotary tool to the heatsink and cut out the space for the filter. As referenced here: https://www.overclock.net/forum/25928200-post82.html

3) Have my friend desolder the filter, straighten the legs, and have him resolder the filter at the proper height.

Who knew using a part made for, listed as a direct fit, from the company that made the unit, would end up being so much trouble.


----------



## GTXJackBauer

I've tightened down my heatsink years ago with no issue. Might have pushed it down a bit but again, no issues with that area what so ever. I think the heatsink has a concave in that area.

As far as temps go, you might shave off a few temps with the heatsink but not by much. It most likely shines when you're pushing the controller to the max.


----------



## gamefoo21

Guess I'm just nervous because I've had a fan controller light on fire on me because of I had to squeeze stuff into place before. I've blown system boards trying to wedge things into places I was told they go.

It's taught me to do things right, even if it is a little extra work.

At the end of it, I'll be grumping the whole way, since I'll toss my friend a few bucks for his time and supplies to mount it properly. Then I'm left wondering why AC just didn't revise the design, two possible very easy fixes, and they know it affects basically every AQ6 made to varying degrees.

1) Making sure during assembly that the filter sits down low enough to fit in the space of the heatsink. Simple assembly revision, and Q/A check.

2) Cut open the space on the heatsink, then anodize the aluminum. How much longer on the CNC would it take to finish cutting open the area. Make it square to match the other cut outs. As far as hardware revisions go, it's both simple and cheap, but it would sacrifice that 'clean and minimalist' look.

Stuff like that erodes the idea that it's premium product, it should be basically fancy Lego that just goes together without any fuss, and that's worth a premium price.

In summary my thoughts are...

I still haven't gotten an answer about whether or not following the just bolting it down install method voids the warranty on my AQ6. I will say that it's kinda shady that they know about the problem, refuse to do anything about it. It becomes a whole different level of shady/immoral(possibly illegal) if following the directions and if following the suggested process of forcing it on, voids the warranty. So I'm really hoping that I get an answer where the heatsink doesn't void the warranty after following the directions because the filter was improperly installed at the factory and the heatsink wasn't properly designed/provisioned for the components. The heatsink isn't sold as some use modification is required to use either. As the end user, I shouldn't be punished because the company knowingly assembles a product poorly and then doesn't design the other properly.

Firm words, but I believe they are deserved.


----------



## Aenra

gamefoo21 said:


> As the end user, I shouldn't be punished because the company knowingly assembles a product poorly and then doesn't design the other properly.



As the "end user", your responsibility is to RTFM, not to judge without the necessary knowledge 
And TFM says specifically, clearly, that the passive cooler is _not_ compatible with all AQ6s.

You go to the cooler's page, you check the SKU parts it's listed as compatible with; then you click those; you do that, you notice right away it won't fit, ergo if you buy it, you're in for some modding.
They never said the cooler is compatible with all AQs. I don't know this because i asked in advance, wouldn't have even thought of it; i know this because, on my own, i read first and purchased second. As i should.

Not trying to argue with you, i do sympathise because i never understood why it couldn't be made compatible in the first place! But fair's fair yeah? They do specify which and only which SKUs it's compatible with.
(and unless they changed their website in the last 5 months, it should still be there too)

* All that aside, careful with bending/squeezing/removing and re-soldering. Better to file some of the cooler surface off and leave the AQ intact; that way you'll still have the AQ's warranty and everything.


----------



## Mega Man

gamefoo21 said:


> First of all, that's some really work on that build. It makes me really wish I held out and got the black heatsink... It just looks so nice.
> 
> I'm in the same boat as you, just like on yours, mine is sitting up and cocked to the side.
> 
> I asked a friend who does electronics manufacture and repair for a living, he thinks it's a signal filter cap. He also isn't sure how to get it to fit without cutting stuff, and he told me not to try using the heatsink to compress it because it'll likely damage that little orange guy.
> 
> I've dropped Shoggy a message, he mentioned they do tend to sit a little high, but if tipping it into the cut back in the heatsink, I was to send him a picture. So I sent him a picture, and I wait on the follow up.
> 
> I remeasured the drop from tipping in the little orange guy, measuring isn't easy at all, but it seems the gap dropped from 1.05mm to 0.95mm.
> 
> How hot do yours get during use btw? Just curious too see how much the aluminum helps.





war4peace said:


> You don't need a heatsink to cool an Aquaero 6. It's entirely optional.


sorry for my long absence. yay kids, but yes, you DO NOT need it, i have run 40 fans from the aq, without issue, without heat sink unfortunately this kinda is a known issue and should of been rectified, but isnt ima try to follow OCN a bit more now, but if you need immediate help pm me


----------



## Amphetamine

Well, here's a render of what I've been up to in Fusion360, showing a semi-exploded view of the top of what I'm going to call The Control Tower. It's a housing for an AQ5LT, Quadro, Splitty4 and 2x Splitty9. There's also a shot of my 3d printer going to work on the 2nd layer (of far too many). I was going to have the transparent AC logo insert extend 10mm on a circular base and then wrap that base with IARGB LEDs but I'm not sure how well that will work, so I may pull the base back up to just 2mm and then hot glue the LED's directly behind it... 



Anyway, work continues on this stuff.


Sorry, 2nd photo is not in the right orientation, looks like the OCN forum software straight up ignores rotation meta tags.


----------



## gamefoo21

Aenra said:


> As the "end user", your responsibility is to RTFM, not to judge without the necessary knowledge
> And TFM says specifically, clearly, that the passive cooler is _not_ compatible with all AQ6s.
> 
> You go to the cooler's page, you check the SKU parts it's listed as compatible with; then you click those; you do that, you notice right away it won't fit, ergo if you buy it, you're in for some modding.
> They never said the cooler is compatible with all AQs. I don't know this because i asked in advance, wouldn't have even thought of it; i know this because, on my own, i read first and purchased second. As i should.
> 
> Not trying to argue with you, i do sympathise because i never understood why it couldn't be made compatible in the first place! But fair's fair yeah? They do specify which and only which SKUs it's compatible with.
> (and unless they changed their website in the last 5 months, it should still be there too)
> 
> * All that aside, careful with bending/squeezing/removing and re-soldering. Better to file some of the cooler surface off and leave the AQ intact; that way you'll still have the AQ's warranty and everything.


I read the manual that came with the heatsink, no where on it does it say ANYTHING about needing to bend or crush or modify anything to install the heatsink AQ module on a compatible SKU.

Let me paraphrase the manual.

Passive heatsink for the Aquaero 6 models. Heatsink can be installed directly on top of the Aquaero controller, please follow the directions: 
1. Disconnect for PSU, then disconnect all cables from AQ. 
2. Cut fitting pieces from the thermally conductive pad supplied with heatsink and place on top of red squares in image below. 
3. Remove four screws from PCB.
4. Place heatsink onto Aquaero PCB and secure using 4 m3x10 screws supplied with heatsink.
5. Connect all previously removed cables.

You mention their website and it does have a specific listing of compatible Aquero 6 models. You are right there is a listing of compatible models on the product page. I lifted this right from the product page:

Link: https://shop.aquacomputer.de/product_info.php?products_id=3153



> Mounted on an aquaero 6 controller, this passive heat sink improves heat dissipation and thereby increases the maximum power output of the fan channels. For optional active cooling, the aquaero 5 water block (art. no. 53093) can be installed on top of the passive heat sink. Passive heat sink and Real Time Clock module (art. no. 53127) can be installed simultaneously, additional mounting material is included in delivery of the passive heat sink.
> 
> Scope of delivery:
> Aluminum heat sink for aquaero 6
> Thermally conductive pad
> Mounting material
> 
> Compatible with:
> aquaero 6 XT (53146, 53206)
> aquaero 6 PRO (53145)
> aquaeor 6 LT (53234)
> 
> Please note: aquaero 6 and water block are not included in delivery! If using the water block that has no second respectively narrower bump (very old version) washers must be used for mounting it. For example 6x article no. 91026 can be used.


I should mention that I copied that entire chunk from their site. I double checked and the black version's information page is exactly the same. I just triple checked and my AQ6 is one of the listed compatible SKUs. Again no mention about modifying or having to damage the AQ6 or heatsink to make things fit. I also checked the manual with my AQ6 and it lists the heatsink as compatible.

There's nothing public, or easily available to the public to say that, the use of the heatsink module requires user modification of either the heatsink or the AQ6. Instead it's being sold as being a direct fit, and they supply all of the hardware needed to mount the heatsink.

I know it's easy to blame the end user for not RTFM or paying attention to the fitment information provided on the product page. If the page said it wasn't compatible or needed modification and warn that your warranty may be voided if the AQ6 is damaged during installation. Unfortunately this isn't one where you can blame me for not reading. I read and I double checked, but this is the manufacturer playing fast and loose, and when I complained I was told that all of the AQ6's made suffer from the filter being improperly installed to some degree. I mean even for the other user, he had an XT and LT, he ended up having to carve up the HSF for both of his.

Hiding behind 'optional' doesn't give a free license to misrepresent the item, it's compatibility, the installation requirements, or the possible secondary costs.

I've been modding things for a while, and this is one of those times, when everything official said/says no modding required. So I shouldn't have to mod anything.



Mega Man said:


> sorry for my long absence. yay kids, but yes, you DO NOT need it, i have run 40 fans from the aq, without issue, without heat sink unfortunately this kinda is a known issue and should of been rectified, but isnt ima try to follow OCN a bit more now, but if you need immediate help pm me


I'm honestly really shocked that it hasn't been rectified, since it seems so easy to do. I can't do anything with my build while I'm trying to figure out what to do with this AQ6, so I will drop you a PM.

I will say that for the reasons I got the heatsink was because it made it look clean, labelled the ports directly, and improved the thermals of the unit. So to not be able to use it/to be faced with these issues has been very upsetting. 

I fully understand it's optional, but it's like Intel selling an upgrade HSF that lists 1151 socket compatibility. Though they ended up putting the mounting for 115x/20xx on the bracket, this causes an incompatibility with 95% of the boards. The only fix is to physically modify either by cutting or bending the mounting hardware despite Intel saying it's compatible and never making any mention anywhere that it requires end user modification most of the time. Running anything but the stock Intel HSF is optional too.

If you say it's compatible and you say it's a simple bolt up procedure, then it should be in the vast majority of time, not a small minority.


----------



## Buford458

*Aquaero 6XT*

How do I get on the list?


----------



## zeroibis

gamefoo21 said:


> I read the manual that came with the heatsink, no where on it does it say ANYTHING about needing to bend or crush or modify anything to install the heatsink AQ module on a compatible SKU.
> 
> Let me paraphrase the manual.
> 
> Passive heatsink for the Aquaero 6 models. Heatsink can be installed directly on top of the Aquaero controller, please follow the directions:
> 1. Disconnect for PSU, then disconnect all cables from AQ.
> 2. Cut fitting pieces from the thermally conductive pad supplied with heatsink and place on top of red squares in image below.
> 3. Remove four screws from PCB.
> 4. Place heatsink onto Aquaero PCB and secure using 4 m3x10 screws supplied with heatsink.
> 5. Connect all previously removed cables.
> 
> You mention their website and it does have a specific listing of compatible Aquero 6 models. You are right there is a listing of compatible models on the product page. I lifted this right from the product page:
> 
> Link: https://shop.aquacomputer.de/product_info.php?products_id=3153
> 
> 
> 
> I should mention that I copied that entire chunk from their site. I double checked and the black version's information page is exactly the same. I just triple checked and my AQ6 is one of the listed compatible SKUs. Again no mention about modifying or having to damage the AQ6 or heatsink to make things fit. I also checked the manual with my AQ6 and it lists the heatsink as compatible.
> 
> There's nothing public, or easily available to the public to say that, the use of the heatsink module requires user modification of either the heatsink or the AQ6. Instead it's being sold as being a direct fit, and they supply all of the hardware needed to mount the heatsink.
> 
> I know it's easy to blame the end user for not RTFM or paying attention to the fitment information provided on the product page. If the page said it wasn't compatible or needed modification and warn that your warranty may be voided if the AQ6 is damaged during installation. Unfortunately this isn't one where you can blame me for not reading. I read and I double checked, but this is the manufacturer playing fast and loose, and when I complained I was told that all of the AQ6's made suffer from the filter being improperly installed to some degree. I mean even for the other user, he had an XT and LT, he ended up having to carve up the HSF for both of his.
> 
> Hiding behind 'optional' doesn't give a free license to misrepresent the item, it's compatibility, the installation requirements, or the possible secondary costs.
> 
> I've been modding things for a while, and this is one of those times, when everything official said/says no modding required. So I shouldn't have to mod anything.
> 
> 
> 
> I'm honestly really shocked that it hasn't been rectified, since it seems so easy to do. I can't do anything with my build while I'm trying to figure out what to do with this AQ6, so I will drop you a PM.
> 
> I will say that for the reasons I got the heatsink was because it made it look clean, labelled the ports directly, and improved the thermals of the unit. So to not be able to use it/to be faced with these issues has been very upsetting.
> 
> I fully understand it's optional, but it's like Intel selling an upgrade HSF that lists 1151 socket compatibility. Though they ended up putting the mounting for 115x/20xx on the bracket, this causes an incompatibility with 95% of the boards. The only fix is to physically modify either by cutting or bending the mounting hardware despite Intel saying it's compatible and never making any mention anywhere that it requires end user modification most of the time. Running anything but the stock Intel HSF is optional too.
> 
> If you say it's compatible and you say it's a simple bolt up procedure, then it should be in the vast majority of time, not a small minority.



I do want to point out:
aquaero 6 XT (*53146*, *53206*)
aquaero 6 PRO (*53145*)
aquaeor 6 LT (*53234*)

But here is the full list of model numbers:
*53234*
*53145*
53253
*53146*
*53206*
53251
53250
53262
53263

It is strange that it is not listed as compatible with all the AQ6s, not sure why just having a different faceplate should matter... 

I do though agree that if this is such a common issue it should be fixed. Personally I did not have the issue with my unit but I guess I got lucky.


----------



## Mega Man

gamefoo21 said:


> Aenra said:
> 
> 
> 
> As the "end user", your responsibility is to RTFM, not to judge without the necessary knowledge /forum/images/smilies/smile.gif
> And TFM says specifically, clearly, that the passive cooler is _not_ compatible with all AQ6s.
> 
> You go to the cooler's page, you check the SKU parts it's listed as compatible with; then you click those; you do that, you notice right away it won't fit, ergo if you buy it, you're in for some modding.
> They never said the cooler is compatible with all AQs. I don't know this because i asked in advance, wouldn't have even thought of it; i know this because, on my own, i read first and purchased second. As i should.
> 
> Not trying to argue with you, i do sympathise because i never understood why it couldn't be made compatible in the first place! But fair's fair yeah? They do specify which and only which SKUs it's compatible with.
> (and unless they changed their website in the last 5 months, it should still be there too)
> 
> * All that aside, careful with bending/squeezing/removing and re-soldering. Better to file some of the cooler surface off and leave the AQ intact; that way you'll still have the AQ's warranty and everything.
> 
> 
> 
> I read the manual that came with the heatsink, no where on it does it say ANYTHING about needing to bend or crush or modify anything to install the heatsink AQ module on a compatible SKU.
> 
> Let me paraphrase the manual.
> 
> Passive heatsink for the Aquaero 6 models. Heatsink can be installed directly on top of the Aquaero controller, please follow the directions:
> 1. Disconnect for PSU, then disconnect all cables from AQ.
> 2. Cut fitting pieces from the thermally conductive pad supplied with heatsink and place on top of red squares in image below.
> 3. Remove four screws from PCB.
> 4. Place heatsink onto Aquaero PCB and secure using 4 m3x10 screws supplied with heatsink.
> 5. Connect all previously removed cables.
> 
> You mention their website and it does have a specific listing of compatible Aquero 6 models. You are right there is a listing of compatible models on the product page. I lifted this right from the product page:
> 
> Link: https://shop.aquacomputer.de/product_info.php?products_id=3153
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Mounted on an aquaero 6 controller, this passive heat sink improves heat dissipation and thereby increases the maximum power output of the fan channels. For optional active cooling, the aquaero 5 water block (art. no. 53093) can be installed on top of the passive heat sink. Passive heat sink and Real Time Clock module (art. no. 53127) can be installed simultaneously, additional mounting material is included in delivery of the passive heat sink.
> 
> Scope of delivery:
> Aluminum heat sink for aquaero 6
> Thermally conductive pad
> Mounting material
> 
> Compatible with:
> aquaero 6 XT (53146, 53206)
> aquaero 6 PRO (53145)
> aquaeor 6 LT (53234)
> 
> Please note: aquaero 6 and water block are not included in delivery! If using the water block that has no second respectively narrower bump (very old version) washers must be used for mounting it. For example 6x article no. 91026 can be used.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> I should mention that I copied that entire chunk from their site. I double checked and the black version's information page is exactly the same. I just triple checked and my AQ6 is one of the listed compatible SKUs. Again no mention about modifying or having to damage the AQ6 or heatsink to make things fit. I also checked the manual with my AQ6 and it lists the heatsink as compatible.
> 
> There's nothing public, or easily available to the public to say that, the use of the heatsink module requires user modification of either the heatsink or the AQ6. Instead it's being sold as being a direct fit, and they supply all of the hardware needed to mount the heatsink.
> 
> I know it's easy to blame the end user for not RTFM or paying attention to the fitment information provided on the product page. If the page said it wasn't compatible or needed modification and warn that your warranty may be voided if the AQ6 is damaged during installation. Unfortunately this isn't one where you can blame me for not reading. I read and I double checked, but this is the manufacturer playing fast and loose, and when I complained I was told that all of the AQ6's made suffer from the filter being improperly installed to some degree. I mean even for the other user, he had an XT and LT, he ended up having to carve up the HSF for both of his.
> 
> Hiding behind 'optional' doesn't give a free license to misrepresent the item, it's compatibility, the installation requirements, or the possible secondary costs.
> 
> I've been modding things for a while, and this is one of those times, when everything official said/says no modding required. So I shouldn't have to mod anything.
> 
> 
> 
> Mega Man said:
> 
> 
> 
> sorry for my long absence. yay kids, but yes, you DO NOT need it, i have run 40 fans from the aq, without issue, without heat sink unfortunately this kinda is a known issue and should of been rectified, but isnt ima try to follow OCN a bit more now, but if you need immediate help pm me
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> I'm honestly really shocked that it hasn't been rectified, since it seems so easy to do. I can't do anything with my build while I'm trying to figure out what to do with this AQ6, so I will drop you a PM.
> 
> I will say that for the reasons I got the heatsink was because it made it look clean, labelled the ports directly, and improved the thermals of the unit. So to not be able to use it/to be faced with these issues has been very upsetting.
> 
> I fully understand it's optional, but it's like Intel selling an upgrade HSF that lists 1151 socket compatibility. Though they ended up putting the mounting for 115x/20xx on the bracket, this causes an incompatibility with 95% of the boards. The only fix is to physically modify either by cutting or bending the mounting hardware despite Intel saying it's compatible and never making any mention anywhere that it requires end user modification most of the time. Running anything but the stock Intel HSF is optional too.
> 
> If you say it's compatible and you say it's a simple bolt up procedure, then it should be in the vast majority of time, not a small minority.
Click to expand...

I understand, iirc the easiest method is to use a square file to make a slot for it. 

Not saying it is right, just an option, dremels work, the are a few other options





Buford458 said:


> How do I get on the list?


----------



## Mega Man

gamefoo21 said:


> Aenra said:
> 
> 
> 
> As the "end user", your responsibility is to RTFM, not to judge without the necessary knowledge /forum/images/smilies/smile.gif
> And TFM says specifically, clearly, that the passive cooler is _not_ compatible with all AQ6s.
> 
> You go to the cooler's page, you check the SKU parts it's listed as compatible with; then you click those; you do that, you notice right away it won't fit, ergo if you buy it, you're in for some modding.
> They never said the cooler is compatible with all AQs. I don't know this because i asked in advance, wouldn't have even thought of it; i know this because, on my own, i read first and purchased second. As i should.
> 
> Not trying to argue with you, i do sympathise because i never understood why it couldn't be made compatible in the first place! But fair's fair yeah? They do specify which and only which SKUs it's compatible with.
> (and unless they changed their website in the last 5 months, it should still be there too)
> 
> * All that aside, careful with bending/squeezing/removing and re-soldering. Better to file some of the cooler surface off and leave the AQ intact; that way you'll still have the AQ's warranty and everything.
> 
> 
> 
> I read the manual that came with the heatsink, no where on it does it say ANYTHING about needing to bend or crush or modify anything to install the heatsink AQ module on a compatible SKU.
> 
> Let me paraphrase the manual.
> 
> Passive heatsink for the Aquaero 6 models. Heatsink can be installed directly on top of the Aquaero controller, please follow the directions:
> 1. Disconnect for PSU, then disconnect all cables from AQ.
> 2. Cut fitting pieces from the thermally conductive pad supplied with heatsink and place on top of red squares in image below.
> 3. Remove four screws from PCB.
> 4. Place heatsink onto Aquaero PCB and secure using 4 m3x10 screws supplied with heatsink.
> 5. Connect all previously removed cables.
> 
> You mention their website and it does have a specific listing of compatible Aquero 6 models. You are right there is a listing of compatible models on the product page. I lifted this right from the product page:
> 
> Link: https://shop.aquacomputer.de/product_info.php?products_id=3153
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Mounted on an aquaero 6 controller, this passive heat sink improves heat dissipation and thereby increases the maximum power output of the fan channels. For optional active cooling, the aquaero 5 water block (art. no. 53093) can be installed on top of the passive heat sink. Passive heat sink and Real Time Clock module (art. no. 53127) can be installed simultaneously, additional mounting material is included in delivery of the passive heat sink.
> 
> Scope of delivery:
> Aluminum heat sink for aquaero 6
> Thermally conductive pad
> Mounting material
> 
> Compatible with:
> aquaero 6 XT (53146, 53206)
> aquaero 6 PRO (53145)
> aquaeor 6 LT (53234)
> 
> Please note: aquaero 6 and water block are not included in delivery! If using the water block that has no second respectively narrower bump (very old version) washers must be used for mounting it. For example 6x article no. 91026 can be used.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> I should mention that I copied that entire chunk from their site. I double checked and the black version's information page is exactly the same. I just triple checked and my AQ6 is one of the listed compatible SKUs. Again no mention about modifying or having to damage the AQ6 or heatsink to make things fit. I also checked the manual with my AQ6 and it lists the heatsink as compatible.
> 
> There's nothing public, or easily available to the public to say that, the use of the heatsink module requires user modification of either the heatsink or the AQ6. Instead it's being sold as being a direct fit, and they supply all of the hardware needed to mount the heatsink.
> 
> I know it's easy to blame the end user for not RTFM or paying attention to the fitment information provided on the product page. If the page said it wasn't compatible or needed modification and warn that your warranty may be voided if the AQ6 is damaged during installation. Unfortunately this isn't one where you can blame me for not reading. I read and I double checked, but this is the manufacturer playing fast and loose, and when I complained I was told that all of the AQ6's made suffer from the filter being improperly installed to some degree. I mean even for the other user, he had an XT and LT, he ended up having to carve up the HSF for both of his.
> 
> Hiding behind 'optional' doesn't give a free license to misrepresent the item, it's compatibility, the installation requirements, or the possible secondary costs.
> 
> I've been modding things for a while, and this is one of those times, when everything official said/says no modding required. So I shouldn't have to mod anything.
> 
> 
> 
> Mega Man said:
> 
> 
> 
> sorry for my long absence. yay kids, but yes, you DO NOT need it, i have run 40 fans from the aq, without issue, without heat sink unfortunately this kinda is a known issue and should of been rectified, but isnt ima try to follow OCN a bit more now, but if you need immediate help pm me
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> I'm honestly really shocked that it hasn't been rectified, since it seems so easy to do. I can't do anything with my build while I'm trying to figure out what to do with this AQ6, so I will drop you a PM.
> 
> I will say that for the reasons I got the heatsink was because it made it look clean, labelled the ports directly, and improved the thermals of the unit. So to not be able to use it/to be faced with these issues has been very upsetting.
> 
> I fully understand it's optional, but it's like Intel selling an upgrade HSF that lists 1151 socket compatibility. Though they ended up putting the mounting for 115x/20xx on the bracket, this causes an incompatibility with 95% of the boards. The only fix is to physically modify either by cutting or bending the mounting hardware despite Intel saying it's compatible and never making any mention anywhere that it requires end user modification most of the time. Running anything but the stock Intel HSF is optional too.
> 
> If you say it's compatible and you say it's a simple bolt up procedure, then it should be in the vast majority of time, not a small minority.
Click to expand...

I understand, iirc the easiest method is to use a square file to make a slot for it. 

Not saying it is right, just an option, dremels work, the are a few other options





Buford458 said:


> How do I get on the list?


 I don't know if it is a active list


----------



## wheatpaste1999

For anyone interested in the US, Performance PCs does have some of the new AquaComputer stuff in stock. Including the Quadro and some of the RGBpx gear.


----------



## Aenra

gamefoo21 said:


> I just triple checked and my AQ6 is one of the listed compatible SKUs


Then i stand corrected and the issue is indeed twofold (they should have made it compatible, as we agreed from the start, and they should also reflect this accurately in their website); no blame to the end user.

I just distinctly recalled the cooler's not being listed as compatible with all AQs; so i wrongly assumed this was on you, picking one of said models 
* which admittedly, happens a lot.. i've done it too, picked somehting that wasn't compatible because i simply assumed *

Again though, my bad.
If Shoggy gets in touch with you, let us know how that went?


----------



## Amphetamine

Ok, so the pic is a quick test fit for the "Control Tower" to go in my Core X9 Snow. I'm still waiting on the 3d print of the transparent insert, but it's all looking good so far!

@Shoggy PLEASE REPLY TO THIS! *Can I use WS2812B standard IA LED strips with the Quadro if I make up custom cables for them?* I got a sample of your official RGBpx strip and it's useless for my requirements since there's no cut points and solder pads for me to fit it into my custom parts! It's getting very close to the day that I want to do this rebuild and I'm still no closer to knowing


----------



## poisson21

poisson21 said:


> has anyone here ever use a bitfenix spectre pro rgb fan with a farbwerk or aquaero? it seems to have classic 5050 smd led without specific controler but i can't find this specific spec and bitfenix didn't answer my mail.


So i decided to buy two to test, the RGB part is controlable without any specific controler, you can just plug them into your farbwerk and it work, they are really bright, and have good spec.
But i have a little problem with them, they are both plugged in my AQ6, no problem to make them work, but i can't adjust the fan speed at all. Although they are 3 pin fan with a starting voltage of 5v and normally they can work with a 7v adapter. 
If anyone have a hint i'll take it.


----------



## Aenra

Amphetamine said:


> Ok, so the pic is a quick test


I still don't get what it is you're doing :S
Do post some 'finished look' pics when you get there?


----------



## Amphetamine

Aenra said:


> I still don't get what it is you're doing :S
> Do post some 'finished look' pics when you get there?



It's a 2 tier custom housing for my AQ5LT, Quadro, Splitty4 and 2x Splitty9.


The top has a cutout of the Aquacomputer logo and I'm working on making a suitable transparent insert for it that I can backlight (preferably with addressable RGB LEDs running on the Quadro, but I can't get confirmation of whether the ones I have are compatible). It's all 3d printed. That's the whole deal.


----------



## Aenra

Amphetamine said:


> That's the whole deal.


And where inside the X9 will this be placed? The upper front?


----------



## Amphetamine

Aenra said:


> And where inside the X9 will this be placed? The upper front?



Front right quarter, I've got a big space there at the moment.


----------



## poisson21

poisson21 said:


> has anyone here ever use a bitfenix spectre pro rgb fan with a farbwerk or aquaero? it seems to have classic 5050 smd led without specific controler but i can't find this specific spec and bitfenix didn't answer my mail.





poisson21 said:


> So i decided to buy two to test, the RGB part is controlable without any specific controler, you can just plug them into your farbwerk and it work, they are really bright, and have good spec.
> But i have a little problem with them, they are both plugged in my AQ6, no problem to make them work, but i can't adjust the fan speed at all. Although they are 3 pin fan with a starting voltage of 5v and normally they can work with a 7v adapter.
> If anyone have a hint i'll take it.


I found my answer on the german forum (thanks ggogle translate), apparently the rgb circuit and the power circuit on the bitfenix spectre pro rgb fan are not independant, if you unplug the rgb you can control easily the speed fan , like any other 3 pin fan. Once you connect the rgb, the fan are always provided with 12v and you also lose the current reading, only the power level change but with no effect.


----------



## gamefoo21

Mega Man said:


> I understand, iirc the easiest method is to use a square file to make a slot for it.
> 
> Not saying it is right, just an option, dremels work, the are a few other options


If I'd have known that I would have gone with black, as it's easy to match with some paint. Red anodization is a pain because it's really difficult to match with paint.



Aenra said:


> Then i stand corrected and the issue is indeed twofold (they should have made it compatible, as we agreed from the start, and they should also reflect this accurately in their website); no blame to the end user.
> 
> I just distinctly recalled the cooler's not being listed as compatible with all AQs; so i wrongly assumed this was on you, picking one of said models
> * which admittedly, happens a lot.. i've done it too, picked somehting that wasn't compatible because i simply assumed *
> 
> Again though, my bad.
> If Shoggy gets in touch with you, let us know how that went?


Assuming is bad because it makes an... Ya know... lol

I apologize if I got a little heated. I'm just super sensitive after causing an electrical fire, and not using a fan controller in the last decade, because it shorted out, and the PSU was happily pushing current until I unplugged the system. Interestingly the system hard locked and I had massive display corruption, so I looked down, and yelled some choice language as I ripped cords from the system and ran it outside.

If we ever meet, you can buy me a beer/coffee, and we can laugh about this. ;-)

It's fair to ask questions, because like you I've ended up with incompatible parts completely without intention, because it slipped my mind or my reading comprehension decided to step out on me at that moment. lol

Onto the main subject at hand, Shoggy has answered most of my questions and here's the jist of what he told me...

If the AQ6 goes bad from the install it's still covered under warranty. <- Be wary with any modifications made to install as these are likely going to void the warranty. ->

They have just brought out a new revision of the AQ6 board that deletes/changes the signal filter and makes a few other changes. So the new ones shouldn't run into the issue, but they are literally brand new and the change will be on the coming production run. <- Maybe I've provided the push to see this revision come to light, probably not, but it's nice to feel important. ->

All AQ6 models are compatible with the heatsink module, so confirming compatible part numbers at this point is redundant. This ties into the above because they've deemed the revision regarding the filter cap as to be a minor change, so there will not be new AQ6 part numbers to accompany the board revision, but that should mean if your reseller gets new stock in the nearish future, that AQ6 inside shouldn't suffer from component interference.

Apparently 99% of their customers never notice or report issues from the filter interfering with the heatsink. <- So this is probably why, they've not bothered to address it until now. ->

I've asked if I could get one of the new revision boards, and was told they don't have any available at this point yet, they've not been made. So I've replied saying I'm willing to wait for one of the new production run, as I would rather have the fixed version. I'm hopeful but I suspect I'll be shot down but it doesn't hurt to offer/ask, since it's something important to me.


----------



## Mega Man

Another option is to Install an inline Fuse on the 12 V Power Although your p S u Should of Shutdown on O C P

That should mitigate any fears you have about fires


----------



## wheatpaste1999

Amphetamine said:


> @Shoggy PLEASE REPLY TO THIS! *Can I use WS2812B standard IA LED strips with the Quadro if I make up custom cables for them?* I got a sample of your official RGBpx strip and it's useless for my requirements since there's no cut points and solder pads for me to fit it into my custom parts! It's getting very close to the day that I want to do this rebuild and I'm still no closer to knowing


Disclaimer: Try at your own risk. When in doubt use a multimeter to test the wires before connecting any strips. You can break your hardware if you cross wires, so be careful.

Alright so not an official response, but I got my Quadro and RGBpx strips today and played around. I have the same question as you. 

You can definitely make standard 3-pin 5V addressable RGB strips work, but there are limitations and you will likely need to make your own break out cable. 

In order to connect to the 4-pin RGBpx port on the Quadro, I used one of these cables:
https://shop.aquacomputer.de/product_info.php?products_id=3487
Primarily just so it'd be easier to check the pin-outs and connect jumpers to a breadboard.

So what I can tell you is that looking at the pins on this cable or on the RGBpx cables or strips you have the following:

-Pin 1 (Black): Ground
-Pin 2 (Green): Digital Signal
-Pin 3 (White): ?
-Pin 4 (Red): +5v

Based off this info you can connect up to other standard 3-pin addressable RGB strips using just the red, black, and green wires (pins 1, 2, and 4) and not connecting the white wire (pin 3). I tested connecting and disconnecting the white wire and also bridging with the green wire, and found no difference so I'm not sure what the purpose is.

Keep in mind that in the Aquasuite software you are limited to 64 LEDs from one Quadro, so it's not going to get you very far with normal addressable LED strips even if you have an external 5v power supply.

I tested this with a couple of different LED strips. I have some high density (30 LEDs / strip) Phanteks strips as well as a generic roll of addressable LEDs, and an LED matrix I got off Amazon. The strange thing is that the Phanteks strip only worked correctly if I had one of the Aquacomputer RGBpx strips connected inline ahead of it. The generic addressable LED strip as well as the LED matrix worked correctly straight off the Quadro.

Sidenote: the LED functions of the Quadro are really cool. There is a lot of functionality and I'm looking forward to playing with it more.


----------



## Aenra

gamefoo21 said:


> I apologize if I got a little heated


It's the summer, we're meant to be in heat!
..err, not like that, i mean it the other way round; obviously. Though not entirely?
(i 've watched too many Monty Python stuff, my humour's marvelously twisted and no apologies given)

Anyway, thanks for the detailed reply, nice to know they're continuing to revise the AQ6, this isn't the first time it's been improved.
Now of course, this last doesn't particularly help you now does it, lol, but.. yeah..
At least he told you you're still on warranty, so that's alright i guess, you're covered


----------



## Amphetamine

wheatpaste1999 said:


> Disclaimer: Try at your own risk. When in doubt use a multimeter to test the wires before connecting any strips. You can break your hardware if you cross wires, so be careful.
> 
> Alright so not an official response, but I got my Quadro and RGBpx strips today and played around. I have the same question as you.
> 
> You can definitely make standard 3-pin 5V addressable RGB strips work, but there are limitations and you will likely need to make your own break out cable.
> 
> In order to connect to the 4-pin RGBpx port on the Quadro, I used one of these cables:
> https://shop.aquacomputer.de/product_info.php?products_id=3487
> Primarily just so it'd be easier to check the pin-outs and connect jumpers to a breadboard.
> 
> So what I can tell you is that looking at the pins on this cable or on the RGBpx cables or strips you have the following:
> 
> -Pin 1 (Black): Ground
> -Pin 2 (Green): Digital Signal
> -Pin 3 (White): ?
> -Pin 4 (Red): +5v
> 
> Based off this info you can connect up to other standard 3-pin addressable RGB strips using just the red, black, and green wires (pins 1, 2, and 4) and not connecting the white wire (pin 3). I tested connecting and disconnecting the white wire and also bridging with the green wire, and found no difference so I'm not sure what the purpose is.
> 
> Keep in mind that in the Aquasuite software you are limited to 64 LEDs from one Quadro, so it's not going to get you very far with normal addressable LED strips even if you have an external 5v power supply.
> 
> I tested this with a couple of different LED strips. I have some high density (30 LEDs / strip) Phanteks strips as well as a generic roll of addressable LEDs, and an LED matrix I got off Amazon. The strange thing is that the Phanteks strip only worked correctly if I had one of the Aquacomputer RGBpx strips connected inline ahead of it. The generic addressable LED strip as well as the LED matrix worked correctly straight off the Quadro.
> 
> Sidenote: the LED functions of the Quadro are really cool. There is a lot of functionality and I'm looking forward to playing with it more.




***EDIT Had to put the files as attachements since drag and drop inline images appears to be super broken!***



That's good information, thank you 


I was very confused about that White cable as well!


Here's a shot (in attachments) showing the traces on the Splitty4 as best as I can get them, maybe this sheds a little more light based on how it connects up the corsair rgb fans. What's the SMD going between Red and White? I'm thinking it would probably be easier to run the strips off the Splitty4 instead of directly from the Quadro, since it seems like it's kind of a pain to get hold of Mirco JST cables/connectors.


Other 2 images show what I'm trying to achieve with this thing. Am also going to make up a LED Res collar.


----------



## gamefoo21

Aenra said:


> It's the summer, we're meant to be in heat!
> ..err, not like that, i mean it the other way round; obviously. Though not entirely?
> (i 've watched too many Monty Python stuff, my humour's marvelously twisted and no apologies given)
> 
> Anyway, thanks for the detailed reply, nice to know they're continuing to revise the AQ6, this isn't the first time it's been improved.
> Now of course, this last doesn't particularly help you now does it, lol, but.. yeah..
> At least he told you you're still on warranty, so that's alright i guess, you're covered


There is no such thing as too much Monty Python. They are all classics and a great watch any time.

Warranty is nice for all of the customers who receive the current model. I'm waiting to hear from them come Monday personally.

Yep, and after poking around their site and seeing that they have various AQ6 LTs, Pros, and XTs listed as out of stock but currently in production, it means the revised edition should be hitting the shelves soon.

After staring at the pictures of the Pro and XT board layouts, I realized there's another very easy fix for changing the filter layout, have it inserted through the front of the board, then bent over. In the pictures there doesn't seem to be anything to cause interference there. It's probably the easiest change to implement, as you don't need the precise installation, and you don't need a board design change to remove or change the filter design.

Aren't I just full of helpful ideas. lol


----------



## Aenra

gamefoo21 said:


> Aren't I just full of helpful ideas. lol


No, sounds really O.K. tbh. Just don't have the skillset to know whether it's 'safe' to do so or not 
(would probably try it out anyway!)


----------



## jsutter71

Has anyone tried powering the Caselabs luminous panel off a Farbwerk controller. I'm tempted given the 4 pin connection but nowhere in the description does it give the power requirements. I don't want to fry another farbwerk controller. Don't ask.


----------



## gamefoo21

Aenra said:


> No, sounds really O.K. tbh. Just don't have the skillset to know whether it's 'safe' to do so or not
> (would probably try it out anyway!)


I have to hassle my electronics friend, to see what he can dig up, and if he's willing to do the work at this rate. I have a bit of medical condition that makes soldering small things very difficult and very frustrating.


----------



## iamjanco

jsutter71 said:


> Has anyone tried powering the Caselabs luminous panel off a Farbwerk controller. I'm tempted given the 4 pin connection but nowhere in the description does it give the power requirements. I don't want to fry another farbwerk controller. Don't ask.


You could always touch base with *xforma,* who built the light panels for the sma8-a. They're still making them for the murderbox and I imagine they'd have that info handy.


----------



## Amphetamine

@wheatpaste1999


Thank you for that advice, got it working great


----------



## wheatpaste1999

Amphetamine said:


> @wheatpaste1999
> 
> 
> Thank you for that advice, got it working great
> 
> 
> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ju9y2EdZtcU


Glad you got it working. Looks good!

These quadros are pretty cool. I need to mess with mine more this week and integrate it into my build.


----------



## jsutter71

iamjanco said:


> You could always touch base with *xforma,* who built the light panels for the sma8-a. They're still making them for the murderbox and I imagine they'd have that info handy.


Never let it be said that I am not a risk taker. The good. The luminous panel worked when I attached it to the Farbwerk. Very nice. The unknown is if those ports are able to provide enough power to achieve maximum brightness. Regardless it does look very nice.


----------



## deeph

Hi,

Recently I bought a Vision Touch. For first installation and running it, I got reading from sensor that is built in. But after updating firmware of my Vision, the sensor reading from it is lost. No where I can find in sensor lists. Does anyone know how to search the built in sensor temp?
Also I lost the sensor from audio device for spectrum display and artist, song name, album, etc.

deeph


----------



## GTXJackBauer

deeph said:


> Hi,
> 
> Recently I bought a Vision Touch. For first installation and running it, I got reading from sensor that is built in. But after updating firmware of my Vision, the sensor reading from it is lost. No where I can find in sensor lists. Does anyone know how to search the built in sensor temp?
> Also I lost the sensor from audio device for spectrum display and artist, song name, album, etc.
> 
> deeph


Did you give your PC a restart? If not, give it a few mins before turning it back on.


----------



## deeph

GTXJackBauer said:


> Did you give your PC a restart? If not, give it a few mins before turning it back on.


I do restart my PC but not completely off (the PSU power cable haven't been unplugged). Do I need unplugged the power cable for a while?


----------



## GTXJackBauer

deeph said:


> I do restart my PC but not completely off (the PSU power cable haven't been unplugged). Do I need unplugged the power cable for a while?


Yup. Try that out for a couple of mins and power it back on. See if that fixes the issue, assuming you have the latest AQsuite software.


----------



## deeph

GTXJackBauer said:


> Yup. Try that out for a couple of mins and power it back on. See if that fixes the issue, assuming you have the latest AQsuite software.


hmm...i haven't restarted my PC yet. But the spectrum analyzer runs now after delete and put back in the display. 
I'm still configuring the Media Information display now, can't seem detect any music info from Spotify.
I'm in the latest Aquasuite.

Edit : Ambient temp from Vision still now visible in Aquasuite.


----------



## poisson21

Does anyone have a trick to be able to control bitfenix spectre pro RGB, in power controled mode ?
It seems they can work with a 7V adapter but can't seem to go down to 7V when you use the aquaero with the rgb working.


----------



## zeroibis

poisson21 said:


> Does anyone have a trick to be able to control bitfenix spectre pro RGB, in power controled mode ?
> It seems they can work with a 7V adapter but can't seem to go down to 7V when you use the aquaero with the rgb working.


Is the rbg on the same power as the fan? I am trying to find a review or something of the RBG version so I can see how it works but I have not found anything yet.

It could be the 7v adapter is just cutting power to the fan but not the leds and is proprietary in that the fan is not adjustable across its full range. You could work around this using the relay function of the AQ to create a relay switch to engage the 7v adapter when needed.


----------



## poisson21

The rgb is a full 5050 smd led so normally it didn't need anything, and you can make it work without powering the fan at all.
You can also fully control the fan when the rgb is not plugged, with all the data retrieve by the aquaero (voltage , power, current).
But when you have the 3 pin for powering the fan and the 4 pin rgb plugged at the same time, you loose the controle of the power, and you loose the current data, the fan become fed with 12 v all the time.
I own the aquaero for a mere 2 weeks, so i don't know about all the function, i'll try the relay function.


----------



## zeroibis

poisson21 said:


> The rgb is a full 5050 smd led so normally it didn't need anything, and you can make it work without powering the fan at all.
> You can also fully control the fan when the rgb is not plugged, with all the data retrieve by the aquaero (voltage , power, current).
> But when you have the 3 pin for powering the fan and the 4 pin rgb plugged at the same time, you loose the controle of the power, and you loose the current data, the fan become fed with 12 v all the time.
> I own the aquaero for a mere 2 weeks, so i don't know about all the function, i'll try the relay function.


Ah so from the sound of it the fan when running with the leds can not be controlled by altering the voltage directly. Instead it can run at two speeds, full speed at 12v or reduced speed at 7v. The 7v reduced speed can only be achieved when the provided adapter is connected. 

If you want to be able to switch to the 7v adapter on the fly it should be possible to accomplish with some custom wiring and by using the relay switch. I would recommend creating a prototype with a physical switch first so you can test everything out. From there you should be able to replace the physical switch with a relay switch and have it get the switching signal from the Aquaero.


----------



## poisson21

Thanks , i'll try that when i'll find exactly how to do it ^^


----------



## zeroibis

Updated D5 where are you?


----------



## E-curbi

zeroibis said:


> Updated D5 where are you?



I second that emotion! 

Wanting the new AquaComputer D5 USB for my 24month water change next month. Sept 2016 - Sept 2018

Adding all new Monsoon 3/8 x 5/8 Ultra Clear tubing, one single new Bitspower Ultimate 90degree rotary in deluxe white so can add a full size EVGA 2080Ti 2.75slot next year to play Borderlands 3 and Doom Eternal oh yea! For coolant, most likely Mayhems once again, great success with their coolants and EK before that. 

Also going with the new EK Velocity CPU block, I've had such a great experience with EK waterblocks and pump tops. Not such a good experience with ANY EK parts made "out of house" fans - radiators etc, returned them for store credit to PPCS. But man, I really LOVE EKs waterblocks. Had two Supremacy EVOs and two mobo specific monoblocks all great performers and cleaning up a dated water loop was so simple and straightforward. 

But for pumps I've always used AquaComputer D5s since 2014, without a single hiccup or bump in the road. My current AC D5 has been going strong for *4years 2months, zero issues*. Going to retire the AC D5 workhorse to a serene pasture in my garage as part of a test loop. 

If the new Aquacomputer D5 does not launch in September, I'll just empty and clean the loop with Blitz Part 2 and keep the system running on Noctua good air temporarily. 

All ready to pick up a brand new Quadro for my work rig, and of course that plan will be automatically superseded LOL when a new Aquaero 7 is announced, crossing fingers and toes. 

That EK Velocity block looks sweet (2nd from the left).


----------



## zeroibis

E-curbi said:


> All ready to pick up a brand new Quadro for my work rig, and of course that plan will be automatically superseded LOL when a new Aquaero 7 is announced, crossing fingers and toes.
> 
> That EK Velocity block looks sweet (2nd from the left).


Given they recently announced they would be releasing a modified version for the AQ6 (to help with HT mounting) it is clear there is no plans for an AQ7 any time soon.


----------



## Leonko

zeroibis said:


> Given they recently announced they would be releasing a modified version for the AQ6 (to help with HT mounting) it is clear there is no plans for an AQ7 any time soon.


to help with what ?
... and also, can you show post where they announced upgraded AQ6 ?


----------



## Aenra

Leonko said:


> to help with what ?


It's literally one page back.. if you can't even read the last page (so as to know what people are talking about), why join forums in the first place?..
They do entail reading..


----------



## jsutter71

gamefoo21 said:


> It sounds like I'll be joining the had to mod it to make it fit. I hope you don't mind, but I borrowed a picture and referenced your thread below.
> 
> 
> 
> Well in my case basically everything is running off voltage control, I went with the Aquaero 6 because I needed PWM to control the pumps, the the other three fan channels are going to be running between 2 - 4 fans initially and possibly more. If I was using PWM to control the fans and not voltage, I would have skipped the heatsink. Since I'm using mostly voltage control, I optioned for the better thermals of mounting the heatsink. Since in my build my Aquaero, is going to be sitting in a place with very little air flow.
> 
> Back on to the main topic...
> 
> Though it's really kind of depressing, that even after talking to Shoggy, I'm left with three options:
> 
> 1. A) Use the heatsink to compress the filter legs, if it chips or cracks the outer part it shouldn't affect it. According to Shoggy most sit too high, and this is how they deal with it.
> B) If I wasn't using the bay mount hardware, or putting it into a 5 1/4" bay, I could just bend it out to the side. The other suggested fix by Shoggy. I have lined up the bay hardware, and even in the pictures from Barefooter, there's no way to bend the filter out when using the bay mount.
> 
> Borrowed a picture from Barefooter's thread:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If I bend it out it'll hook the heatsink, and wedge against the bracket.
> 
> 2) Suggested and demonstrated by Barefooter, was to take the rotary tool to the heatsink and cut out the space for the filter. As referenced here: https://www.overclock.net/forum/25928200-post82.html
> 
> 3) Have my friend desolder the filter, straighten the legs, and have him resolder the filter at the proper height.
> 
> Who knew using a part made for, listed as a direct fit, from the company that made the unit, would end up being so much trouble.


Sorry if I'm late to the topic but I haven't been on this thread for a while. when I saw your post I had to do a double take and look at mine since I also have a heatsink attached. I was surprised to read about your situation because I never had any issues like the one you described. Hope your situation works out. I've had my 6XT for a couple years now so maybe the QC has worsened since then.


----------



## jsutter71

If anyone is interested the Farbwerk has no issues controlling the luminous panel from Caselabs.


----------



## gamefoo21

jsutter71 said:


> Sorry if I'm late to the topic but I haven't been on this thread for a while. when I saw your post I had to do a double take and look at mine since I also have a heatsink attached. I was surprised to read about your situation because I never had any issues like the one you described. Hope your situation works out. I've had my 6XT for a couple years now so maybe the QC has worsened since then.



Yeah seems it's been a widespread issue varying from not noticable, to require modification to fit. 99% of users with non-compliant boards, never see or notice an issue.

I think that I may have been at least a nudge in the direction for pressing a design change into production. Since all of the AQ6's made from here on out should have a change in design to completely alleviate the issue I and other have run into.


I'm currently weighing the cost and continued delay of warrantying mine, since I have to wait for new stock to be available and to be able to afford shipping.


----------



## Flamso

I'm curious about one thing. On the Quadro page it says it can only control 64 LED's and that you only can connect two Quadro's to one Aquaero (or one computer?). If I want to connect 8 fans with 16 LED's each (8x16=128 LED's and thats just enough for two Quadro's), the Corsair LL fans, would that mean that the Quadro's can't control any more LED's at all?


----------



## broodro0ster

Flamso said:


> I'm curious about one thing. On the Quadro page it says it can only control 64 LED's and that you only can connect two Quadro's to one Aquaero (or one computer?). If I want to connect 8 fans with 16 LED's each (8x16=128 LED's and thats just enough for two Quadro's), the Corsair LL fans, would that mean that the Quadro's can't control any more LED's at all?


If I recall correctly, you can connect 2 of them via the aquabus to a Aquaero. But if you connect the Quaddro's via USB, you can add more of them.


----------



## Shawnb99

Can I connect 2 splitty9’s onto one fan channel and run 12 fans off the aquaero?

Would be EK-Vadar F4’s.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## skingun

Ive done this before and it worked fine but check the current draw of the fans you are using. I used NF-F12s which have super low current draw.


----------



## Flamso

broodro0ster said:


> If I recall correctly, you can connect 2 of them via the aquabus to a Aquaero. But if you connect the Quaddro's via USB, you can add more of them.


Ohhh. That right! So just get an USB splitter and go all out for Quadro's then?


----------



## broodro0ster

Flamso said:


> Ohhh. That right! So just get an USB splitter and go all out for Quadro's then?


I don't know how internal USB splitters work, but if it works, I think you can add a lot of Quaddro's  Maybe ask Shoggy to be sure, but I don't think it will be an issue.


----------



## Flamso

broodro0ster said:


> I don't know how internal USB splitters work, but if it works, I think you can add a lot of Quaddro's  Maybe ask Shoggy to be sure, but I don't think it will be an issue.


True enough! Aquacomputer has an USB splitter as well so it should be fine. Thank you!


----------



## Shoggy

The aquasuite identifies each device by its serial number when connected via USB. In theory there is no limit how many device the aquasuite can manage at the same time.

One limit is caused by the PCs hardware. There can be only 127 devices per USB root hub.


----------



## Ashcroft

Shawnb99 said:


> Can I connect 2 splitty9’s onto one fan channel and run 12 fans off the aquaero?
> 
> Would be EK-Vadar F4’s.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Sure you can. Or you could use splitter wires on a single multi splitter board to make it a bit neater and cheaper. 

In theory you can add as many as the channel can power or almost limitless from powered boards. In practice though you eventually hit problems with grounding for the signals so the control range will reduce and then cease to work with the more you add.

It will depend on the fans and the wiring you use.


----------



## toolmaker03

Shoggy said:


> The aquasuite identifies each device by its serial number when connected via USB. In theory there is no limit how many device the aquasuite can manage at the same time.
> 
> One limit is caused by the PCs hardware. There can be only 127 devices per USB root hub.


I have been checking with the engineering department from intel, and this is their response. For 8th series motherboards a USB 3.1 header, has a maximum end points of 96, for USB 2.1 header it is only 53 end points. Each USB motherboard header can support multiple end points, and how many end points it can support vary by device. Once it reaches to the max endpoints, you will get a pop up message, the limitation is not only based on number of devices supported, but also by how many end points are created by those devices, some devices create multiple end points.

realistically speaking, for the normal user that is connecting things like, thumb drives, external SSD's, and external CDRW drives, to their motherboard USB headers, about 12 to 24 devices can be connected to a single USB header, before the pop up message will appear.


----------



## Flamso

Shoggy said:


> The aquasuite identifies each device by its serial number when connected via USB. In theory there is no limit how many device the aquasuite can manage at the same time.
> 
> One limit is caused by the PCs hardware. There can be only 127 devices per USB root hub.


Well I think that makes me pretty safe. Thank you for your answer!


----------



## Aenra

Dumb question, but better safe than sorry 

Does orientation matter for the AC filter module (lying face down, inverted [ie plugs on top], etc.)?

https://shop.aquacomputer.de/product_info.php?products_id=2421


----------



## jsutter71

I ran into an issue with my Lexar workflow hub. If I attach it to my regular USB 3.0 port I start getting error messages. A few of the modules had recent firmware update which didn't help. The workaround for me is connecting it to my USB 3.1 ports which I only have 2. It might be the hub but it also could be the board. X99 chipset motherboards are known for having problems with USB hubs. The only USB 2.0 connections I have on my board are internal which I have 2 hubby 7's attached to. 1 per port. 

Questions:
What's the difference between the hubby 7 1st and 2nd gen?
Same question but about the farbwerk REV 8 white version, compared to the black PCB version?
Would it be worth it to add a Quadro to my system if I'm already using a farbwerk?
Is converting my light strips from the standard 4 pin to RGBpx worth the effort or cost?


----------



## Shoggy

jsutter71 said:


> Questions:
> What's the difference between the hubby 7 1st and 2nd gen?
> Same question but about the farbwerk REV 8 white version, compared to the black PCB version?
> Would it be worth it to add a Quadro to my system if I'm already using a farbwerk?
> Is converting my light strips from the standard 4 pin to RGBpx worth the effort or cost?


There is not really such a thing like V1 or V2. The electronic of Hubby7 has never changed. The only difference is that current boards come with a rubber case and engraved cover. This is also nothing new. They are sold this way since February.

The only noteworthy advantage of the current farbwerk is that its LED is plugged and you get a blue and red one with the device. The other changes like the color and minor changes to the electronic are only production related. 

If you want some fancy animations an upgrade might be interesting. If you are not interested in such stuff and want an unhasty illumination you should stick to the farbwerk. The farbwerk also offers to connect much larger strips while with QUADRO you are limited to 64 LEDs.


----------



## skingun

@Shoggy I'm planning on picking up a farbwerk with Bluetooth but I'm confused over the description.

Are there any restrictions in aquasuite when using the Bluetooth model?


----------



## GTXJackBauer

skingun said:


> @Shoggy I'm planning on picking up a farbwerk with Bluetooth but I'm confused over the description.
> 
> Are there any restrictions in aquasuite when using the Bluetooth model?


Nope. It just won't work with Apple since it only has the Android app for it.


----------



## skingun

@GTXJackBauer thank you! I'll get the Bluetooth version then.

@Shoggy or anyone else that can help!

My Aquaero 6 XT started making a noise that resembels coil wine and it's [email protected]*&ing annoying. Here is a link to a video I made of the sound it makes:

https://www.dropbox.com/sh/x1uzecy7smk8wt1/AABIqI3fyAplsbhGrn17CDqSa?dl=0

If i wiggle some of the cables that are plugged into the Aquaero the noise goes away but comes back of it's own accord completely randomly. 

What could be causing this and how can I fix it? I am handy with a soldering iron. 

Happy to send it in for testing if that's a possibility. I'm about to strip my system for a rebuild anyway.


----------



## jsutter71

Shoggy said:


> There is not really such a thing like V1 or V2. The electronic of Hubby7 has never changed. The only difference is that current boards come with a rubber case and engraved cover. This is also nothing new. They are sold this way since February.
> 
> The only noteworthy advantage of the current farbwerk is that its LED is plugged and you get a blue and red one with the device. The other changes like the color and minor changes to the electronic are only production related.
> 
> If you want some fancy animations an upgrade might be interesting. If you are not interested in such stuff and want an unhasty illumination you should stick to the farbwerk. The farbwerk also offers to connect much larger strips while with QUADRO you are limited to 64 LEDs.


Thank you much. My only issue with the Farbwerk is that the connection ports are not always consistent with the settings. I have 2 in my current system, 2 failed units, and all 4 have had the same issue. To be specific I'll unplug a test lightstrip into a specific port and it might show the same color in 2 or 3 out of the 4 ports but never all 4. This is with all the light settings in Aquasuite having identical settings. It's not always the same port on the fabwerk either. Example. On one farbwerk it might be the 2nd port with the issue and another the 3rd. Another issue I've run into is over time the color might not show correctly. Again I'll take the same light strip and plug it into another port which will then show correctly. Light strips in general have always been a source of frustration for me. Mostly because the connections are so small and my shaky hands can't sodder well enough to go that route. I've tried several different types of cables and connectors with few that have worked well for me. I much prefer crimp pins to light strip connectors.


----------



## jsutter71

Today I had a first time issue with my Aqualis 880 ml reservoir. In an attempt to flush all the bubbles from my system I ran a stress test using AIDA64. I turned off all my fans, and let everything heat up. Apparently the gasket on the reservoir couldn't handle the heat over 90C the reservoir began leaking. BADLY. I had to shut down my system and dry everything out and let everything cool down. After everything cooled down I dried up the leak, turn the fans back on, and refill the reservoir. Once that was done the gasket on the reservoir expanded back to normal and the leak went away. On a positive note all my bubbles are now flushed.


----------



## skingun

jsutter71 said:


> Today I had a first time issue with my Aqualis 880 ml reservoir. In an attempt to flush all the bubbles from my system I ran a stress test using AIDA64. I turned off all my fans, and let everything heat up. Apparently the gasket on the reservoir couldn't handle the heat over 90C the reservoir began leaking. BADLY. I had to shut down my system and dry everything out and let everything cool down. After everything cooled down I dried up the leak, turn the fans back on, and refill the reservoir. Once that was done the gasket on the reservoir expanded back to normal and the leak went away. On a positive note all my bubbles are now flushed.


Are you saying that your water temp was 90C!? If so, I am not surprised you had a leak. It's not advisable to let your WC temp go above 50 and many people would say you shouldn't let it go above 40 becuase many components are rated to 50C and it's better to stay within thresholds and have some headroom.


----------



## war4peace

jsutter71 said:


> Today I had a first time issue with my Aqualis 880 ml reservoir. In an attempt to flush all the bubbles from my system I ran a stress test using AIDA64. I turned off all my fans, and let everything heat up. Apparently the gasket on the reservoir couldn't handle the *heat over 90C* the reservoir began leaking.


Erm, that's 40 degrees over recommended top liquid temperature and 30 degrees above redline maximum for watercooling liquid. Not to mention liquid expansion which can damage all gaskets.
I think you were very lucky.


----------



## Shoggy

skingun said:


> @Shoggy I'm planning on picking up a farbwerk with Bluetooth but I'm confused over the description.
> 
> Are there any restrictions in aquasuite when using the Bluetooth model?


For the aquasuite and the features it will make no difference at all. The Bluetooth enabled version just allows a very basic remote control on top.



skingun said:


> My Aquaero 6 XT started making a noise that resembels coil wine and it's [email protected]*&ing annoying.


As already asked in our forum: how old is this device? I assume that it is a problem with the buzzer.



jsutter71 said:


> Thank you much. My only issue with the Farbwerk is that the connection ports are not always consistent with the settings.


Sounds a lot like a connection problem between the LED strips and the farbwerk.



jsutter71 said:


> Apparently the gasket on the reservoir couldn't handle the heat over 90C the reservoir began leaking.


As already mentioned by others: this temperature is way too high! Acetal also starts to slightly deform at high temperatures which might also cause a problem.


----------



## GTXJackBauer

jsutter71 said:


> In an attempt to flush all the bubbles from my system I ran a stress test using AIDA64. I turned off all my fans, and let everything heat up. Apparently the gasket on the reservoir couldn't handle the heat over 90C the reservoir began leaking. BADLY.


Wow, I was just going to say. NEVER run your liquid that HOT, EVER! lol Holy smokes....this is a first for me. Better yet, never not run your fans, pumps, etc. during component operation or anything that needs to be cooled off. 

At this point, I would change all your gaskets and run a normal leak test for the next 24 hours to make sure nothing was damaged. If this was soft tubing (limit of 60c-65c), it would have been a complete disaster.

Yes, you are very lucky.


----------



## zeroibis

I think he had intended to do a steampunk build...

Also to put into perspective the pressure increases you are creating here:
"As a point of reference, in a residential hydronic heating boiler we actually observe an internal water pressure rise from 12 psi cold up to 28 psi hot as the boiler temperature increases from perhaps 60 °F (16C) up to 180 °F (82C)."


----------



## Shawnb99

jsutter71 said:


> Today I had a first time issue with my Aqualis 880 ml reservoir. In an attempt to flush all the bubbles from my system I ran a stress test using AIDA64. I turned off all my fans, and let everything heat up. Apparently the gasket on the reservoir couldn't handle the heat over 90C the reservoir began leaking. BADLY. I had to shut down my system and dry everything out and let everything cool down. After everything cooled down I dried up the leak, turn the fans back on, and refill the reservoir. Once that was done the gasket on the reservoir expanded back to normal and the leak went away. On a positive note all my bubbles are now flushed.




Who taught you to bleed your system this way? 
*** were your CPU temps if your water temps got that high. 
Wow, just wow. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## skingun

Shoggy said:


> As already asked in our forum: how old is this device? I assume that it is a problem with the buzzer.


 @Shoggy Thank you for your replies. I will confine further discussion of this issue to the Aquacomputer forum.


----------



## jsutter71

If you can't stand the heat right? I've been running the system for several hours after everything cooled down with no issues or leaks. It didn't run that hot long enough to cause any damage. It reminded me of a hot summer day in Iraq. Balad on August 2005 139F degrees in the shade. I looked young their. And another pic I just took of my system. Leak and bubble free.

I had to make a correction on the date in Balad. I must be getting old. It was August 2005 not 2007


----------



## SimonOcean

Yeh... you look like you are melting there buddy!


----------



## Ashcroft

Surely the liquid wasn't actually that hot? Some other component may have been at 90c. Steam would have popped something. How would the processors not hit their thermal trips before the coolant got that hot.

I'm surprised it was the res that leaked. I would have expected the tube fittings to go before that. I wonder if it was the gasket or the glass expansion that caused it.


----------



## poisson21

Does anybody have a period of time for the launch of their new pump ?


----------



## Andrew LB

GTXJackBauer said:


> Wow, I was just going to say. NEVER run your liquid that HOT, EVER! lol Holy smokes....this is a first for me. Better yet, never not run your fans, pumps, etc. during component operation or anything that needs to be cooled off.
> 
> At this point, I would change all your gaskets and run a normal leak test for the next 24 hours to make sure nothing was damaged. If this was soft tubing (limit of 60c-65c), it would have been a complete disaster.
> 
> Yes, you are very lucky.



maximum serviceable temperature of PETG tubing is approx 70'c. Anything more and it has the potential to lose structural integrity (see: Deform)


http://www.par-group.co.uk/UserDocs/PETG-Plastic-Sheet.pdf
http://www.matweb.com/search/datasheet.aspx?matguid=211225b2c12f48988b81c8dbac034ebe
http://www.curbellplastics.com/technical-resources/pdf/petg-eng-datasheet-curbell.pdf


----------



## zeroibis

poisson21 said:


> Does anybody have a period of time for the launch of their new pump ?


Nope.

Also we not even sure when more AQ6 LTs will be in stock at PPCS...


----------



## apw63

Sorry if this has been asked before. Is any one using these Calitemp digital temperature sensor internal/external thread G1/4 for aquaero 5/6 hooked to a Aquaero 6. They plug in to the aquabus header. To use more that one up to 4, you need one of these aquabus X4 for aquaero 5/6. Do they take the spot of an MPS device. I know you can only have 4 MPS devices on a aquabus. For some reason you can only use 4 calitemp sensors on one aquero. 

https://shop.aquacomputer.de/product_info.php?products_id=3774 Calitemp digital temperature sensor 
https://shop.aquacomputer.de/product_info.php?products_id=3775 aquabus X4


----------



## jsutter71

Andrew LB said:


> maximum serviceable temperature of PETG tubing is approx 70'c. Anything more and it has the potential to lose structural integrity (see: Deform)
> 
> 
> http://www.par-group.co.uk/UserDocs/PETG-Plastic-Sheet.pdf
> http://www.matweb.com/search/datasheet.aspx?matguid=211225b2c12f48988b81c8dbac034ebe
> http://www.curbellplastics.com/technical-resources/pdf/petg-eng-datasheet-curbell.pdf


Truthfully. I had HWiNFO64 running in the background and I glanced at it just long enough to see that temp. It could have been any number of the devices that was running that hot because their was a lot of info being displayed. But your right. I doubt the water had reached that temp. I was more focused on containing the water coming out of the reservoir and preventing a permanent catastrophic incident. Thankfully I was able to shut my system down in time and cool the reservoir enough to stop the leak. Once everything cooled down I was able to stabilize my system and restore normal operations.


----------



## Barney Gumble

Hi all. Aquaero 5LT owner. I am posting here as my little project is mostly an Aquaero thing for me, although perhaps it is expandable beyond that. I'm looking for any feedback (corrections or improvements) and posting as well in case anyone else finds it useful as well.

As part of a larger and longer-term (meaning I'm procrastinating the crap out of finishing it) project, I have had the desire or need to be able to control down to the dew point temperature. However I have also wanted something ideally that integrated into Aquaero/Aquasuite so that everything was in one controller and software suite, as well as utilizing all the powerful tools they have. My search for even a dew point sensor that could do this was pretty fruitless, so I turned (as you might expect) to an Arduino solution. I've been meaning to learn more about Arduinos anyway, and I know they have been used in part for dew point measurement/control.

Well, holy crap, I think I got something to work relatively easy. My thinking ended up where the idea is to basically 'spoof' one of the Aquaero temperature sensor inputs into thinking it is reading a temperature from a sensor, when in fact it effectively is being input the dew point temperature. The basis for this is that the thermistor you normally connect to the input is a standard 10k ohm/25 deg C NTC thermistor. 

The logic is basically as follows, all in the Arduino:

- using an AM2302 (DHT22) sensor, read the temperature and humidity
- calculate the dew point from these data points
- back calculate, using the 'B-equation' for this standard thermistor, the resistance for this dew point temperature (more info here: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Thermistor)
- program this resistance into a digital potentiometer; this is done by calculating the equivalent number between 0-255 that represents the resistance range of the digital potentiometer (in this case 0-50000 ohms, an AD5206), and sending it into the potentiometer
- output this resistance to the temperature sensor pins on the Aquaero

And now I have the dew point temperature as in input, and therefore into any controller, in the Aquaero/Aquasuite.

This is all just bench tested for now. But it seems to work. The first pictures below are screenshots from Aquasuite and the (overlayed) Arduino serial monitor. The first test I ran was simply to input (hard coded in the Arduino sketch) a fixed temperature to see if I could replicate this in Aquasuite. So at 25deg and at 10deg, the Aquasuite reads them as 24.34 deg and 9.38 deg, respectively. In the second test, I hooked up the AM2302 sensor and did all the dew point calculations (see fourth picture). Finally a quick pick of the test setup (in the end it seems pretty simple).

A few thoughts - I'm not sure why, particularly in the first test, the Aquasuite temperature wasn't exactly what I input. I think the accuracy is probably fine in any case, and I can only think that it is tolerances in the digital potentiometer. Also, on the potentiometer, the wiper/terminal connection seemed opposite from what I though it would be. And finally, the wiring into the Aquaero mattered with respect to polarity (which I didn't think it would considering it is looking at a resistance). The AD5206 also has 6 channels which are not all needed but it was all I could quickly find.

If there is interest I can upload the schematic etc. plus answer any questions. Comments or improvements?? I would particularly like any feedback from the Aquacomputer guys/gals on here (Shoggy?) in case I've done something that will whack the AQ board. And if you want to design a dew point board for your great line of products, I'm all over it. A simple sales discount would be fine


----------



## Shoggy

apw63 said:


> Do they take the spot of an MPS device.


No, the calitemp sensors use their own aquabus ID range.



Barney Gumble said:


> A few thoughts - I'm not sure why, particularly in the first test, the Aquasuite temperature wasn't exactly what I input.


The input value is not processed linear. The temperature sensor ports use a calibration curve which is optimized for the 10kOHM NTCs that we use. You will see larger deviations in the lower and upper end of the temperature range.


----------



## zeroibis

Now that I think of it a humidity sensor would be a nice thing to have. One of the great things abut the AQ platform is the remote monitoring it basically gives me all the info I would want to know about a remote site except for humidity.


----------



## Barney Gumble

Shoggy said:


> The input value is not processed linear. The temperature sensor ports use a calibration curve which is optimized for the 10kOHM NTCs that we use. You will see larger deviations in the lower and upper end of the temperature range.


Thanks Shoggy, and yes the B-equation curve is not linear, however I would have expected a closer result at the reference temperature of 25 deg C (it's low by 0.7 deg). So I have to guess it comes from tolerances within the potentiometer including the fact the digital 'sweep' has a range of 195 ohms which is worth a few tenths of a degree on its own. I have put a bias value in the equation to pull the whole curve up so it is now within about a tenth of a degree.


----------



## jsutter71

zeroibis said:


> Now that I think of it a humidity sensor would be a nice thing to have. One of the great things abut the AQ platform is the remote monitoring it basically gives me all the info I would want to know about a remote site except for humidity.


I just have this sitting next to my PC. Nothing fancy but it's enough.


----------



## zeroibis

jsutter71 said:


> I just have this sitting next to my PC. Nothing fancy but it's enough.


Yea I have basically the same thing but it is useless when I am not in the room. Remember that I was talking about remote monitoring.


----------



## apw63

Shoggy said:


> No, the calitemp sensors use their own aquabus ID range.


Thank you, I might have to try a couple of these


----------



## jsutter71

zeroibis said:


> Yea I have basically the same thing but it is useless when I am not in the room. Remember that I was talking about remote monitoring.


Understood. A necessity if you leave your system continuously running. My solution wouldn't fit your needs. Something else to consider is your PC environment. If humidity is a concern consider a dehumidifier located near your PC. I'm in San Antonio Texas which has a daytime average humidity level of 67%. I googled that  My biggest issue is dust. I love Texas but hate how hard it is to keep out the dust. Even hepa filters are of little use. My PC has Demciflex filters which work well enough, but on another topic. My garage kept Corvette is always on the losing side, and I don't even like driving it in the rain as much as possible.


----------



## Shawnb99

Are there other options to control the aquareo via remote rather the aquaremote?

Don’t see myself ever using that remote


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## jsutter71

Shawnb99 said:


> Are there other options to control the aquareo via remote rather the aquaremote?
> 
> Don’t see myself ever using that remote
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


You might be able to program a logitech Harmony which gives you the ability to train buttons. I've been using Harmony's since the 90's and if you have the time and patience then give it a try. And if you can get that to work then you can program a Google home or Amazon echo to do voice commands. I have almost every electronic device, other then PC's, laptops's, and tablets programmed to recognize voice commands. Even my thermostats. It's a slow and long tedious process which took hours getting all my rooms devices to communicate properly with my individual hubs which are then connected to my Samsung Smartthings hub. I've found that voice commands, once set up properly work more consistently then my handheld remotes.


----------



## alanthecelt

Guys, has anyone got any experience with using a farbwerk
I have mine connected via the aquabus interface to my Aquaero 6 LT
So, the rgb strips light up and cycle...
the farbwerk shows as a connected device in aquasuite
i can assign controller outputs to it
But it does not do anything except cycle the colours in demo mode


----------



## zeroibis

gamefoo21 said:


> It sounds like I'll be joining the had to mod it to make it fit. I hope you don't mind, but I borrowed a picture and referenced your thread below.
> 
> 
> 
> Well in my case basically everything is running off voltage control, I went with the Aquaero 6 because I needed PWM to control the pumps, the the other three fan channels are going to be running between 2 - 4 fans initially and possibly more. If I was using PWM to control the fans and not voltage, I would have skipped the heatsink. Since I'm using mostly voltage control, I optioned for the better thermals of mounting the heatsink. Since in my build my Aquaero, is going to be sitting in a place with very little air flow.
> 
> Back on to the main topic...
> 
> Though it's really kind of depressing, that even after talking to Shoggy, I'm left with three options:
> 
> 1. A) Use the heatsink to compress the filter legs, if it chips or cracks the outer part it shouldn't affect it. According to Shoggy most sit too high, and this is how they deal with it.
> B) If I wasn't using the bay mount hardware, or putting it into a 5 1/4" bay, I could just bend it out to the side. The other suggested fix by Shoggy. I have lined up the bay hardware, and even in the pictures from Barefooter, there's no way to bend the filter out when using the bay mount.
> 
> Borrowed a picture from Barefooter's thread:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If I bend it out it'll hook the heatsink, and wedge against the bracket.
> 
> 2) Suggested and demonstrated by Barefooter, was to take the rotary tool to the heatsink and cut out the space for the filter. As referenced here: https://www.overclock.net/forum/25928200-post82.html
> 
> 3) Have my friend desolder the filter, straighten the legs, and have him resolder the filter at the proper height.
> 
> Who knew using a part made for, listed as a direct fit, from the company that made the unit, would end up being so much trouble.





Leonko said:


> to help with what ?
> ... and also, can you show post where they announced upgraded AQ6 ?


I just wanted to update that I recently got an AQ6 LT which is from the new stock that PPCS has. The new AQ6 LT that arrived no longer has that part at all and thus henceforth new users should disregard the heatsink issue.


----------



## GTXJackBauer

alanthecelt said:


> Guys, has anyone got any experience with using a farbwerk
> I have mine connected via the aquabus interface to my Aquaero 6 LT
> So, the rgb strips light up and cycle...
> the farbwerk shows as a connected device in aquasuite
> i can assign controller outputs to it
> But it does not do anything except cycle the colours in demo mode


Depending on the Aquasuite software you are using, the Farbwerk might need a firmware update via USB connection. If that has been done already, you'll need to shut off the PC via unplugging the PSU for a few minutes and powering it all back up. Just make sure to assign the farbwerk back to Aquabus.


----------



## kennyj

So... I recently got an Aquaero and a Quadro, because I had three PWM fan hubs and two PWM D5 pumps to drive (the EK dual top, pre-G2, that uses white label pumps) and I wanted independent monitoring and control over the pumps.

I didn't even think to look into whether the D5 would be an issue with the Aquaero. Sure enough, it can't control the generic D5s.

You know what does, though? The Quadro. Just fine.

So if you've got some non-standard PWM devices and you don't particularly want to perform Darlene's fantastic pullup mod, try a Quadro and see what happens!


----------



## GTXJackBauer

Interesting and thanks for sharing. Curious what Shoggy and them have to say.


----------



## alanthecelt

GTXJackBauer said:


> Depending on the Aquasuite software you are using, the Farbwerk might need a firmware update via USB connection. If that has been done already, you'll need to shut off the PC via unplugging the PSU for a few minutes and powering it all back up. Just make sure to assign the farbwerk back to Aquabus.


ah ok.. yes im on a 2018 version of aquasuite i think.... literally just activated the aquaero so i assume i'm on the highest current license
right ok so ill try the firmware update route, i assumed it would just happen through aquabus...
thanks


----------



## Aenra

kennyj said:


> So if you've got some non-standard PWM devices and you don't particularly want to perform Darlene's fantastic pullup mod, try a Quadro and see what happens!


Thank you so much for mentioning this, had personally no use or need for the Quadros, but this allows for some extra options; much obliged 

Now technically speaking, can anyone tell me how this could be?


----------



## zeroibis

A PWM device that works on the Quadro but not the AQ6... interesting. Maybe the Quadro has a circuit change that allows it to work with the non standard PWM pumps. In theory theory they could have added this to a newer revision of the AQ6 if that is the case.


----------



## GTXJackBauer

alanthecelt said:


> ah ok.. yes im on a 2018 version of aquasuite i think.... literally just activated the aquaero so i assume i'm on the highest current license
> right ok so ill try the firmware update route, i assumed it would just happen through aquabus...
> thanks


For every new software suite 2017, 2018 etc... there's usually firmware updates for almost all devices and they can only be done by USB first and foremost and than you'll have to switch them back to the aqubus to communicate with the AQ6 as USB make it a standalone device. Could be used either or but dependent on the device, certain features come with each one or the same for both.


----------



## iamjanco

zeroibis said:


> A PWM device that works on the Quadro but not the AQ6... interesting. Maybe the Quadro has a circuit change that allows it to work with the non standard PWM pumps. In theory theory they could have added this to a newer revision of the AQ6 if that is the case.


Indications over in the *AC Support forum* are that pullup circuity was added to the Quadro that allows for proper PWM control of non-compliant products like the (e.g.) PWM versions of the SW3 fans. Maybe @Shoggy could help clarify that.


----------



## Shoggy

alanthecelt said:


> Guys, has anyone got any experience with using a farbwerk
> I have mine connected via the aquabus interface to my Aquaero 6 LT
> So, the rgb strips light up and cycle...
> the farbwerk shows as a connected device in aquasuite
> i can assign controller outputs to it
> But it does not do anything except cycle the colours in demo mode


You have to connect the farbwerk via USB first to update its firmware (if necessary) and then switch the mode of the channels to external control (aquabus).



iamjanco said:


> Indications over in the *AC Support forum* are that pullup circuity was added to the Quadro


QUADRO uses a simple pull-up circuit and should handle most of the problematic devices that do not comply with Intels PWM specifications.


----------



## GTXJackBauer

Shoggy said:


> QUADRO uses a simple pull-up circuit and should handle most of the problematic devices that do not comply with Intels PWM specifications.


That's great news.


----------



## kennyj

It was a pleasant surprise, for sure. I'm not averse to soldering but I was glad to find a solution that didn't require it!


----------



## Aenra

That's awesome indeed 

Ironically, looks like i will be getting two Quadros after all.. ^^
Now if only the AQ could handle more than 2 Quadros, lol
(need 4 units.. it's not about number of fans total, it's about having 4 distinct, autonomous to one another 'groups')

Edit: Can someone with a PWM version of the SW3HS fan verify this please?

(it's always more money, isn't it, lol. The instant you think you're done, nope!)


----------



## zeroibis

Aenra said:


> That's awesome indeed
> 
> Ironically, looks like i will be getting two Quadros after all.. ^^
> Now if only the AQ could handle more than 2 Quadros, lol
> (need 4 units.. it's not about number of fans total, it's about having 4 distinct, autonomous to one another 'groups')
> 
> Edit: Can someone with a PWM version of the SW3HS fan verify this please?
> 
> (it's always more money, isn't it, lol. The instant you think you're done, nope!)


It can handle a max of two when connected via aquabus; however, if you connect them via USB you are only limited by the number of USB devices your system can support.


----------



## poisson21

can someone tell me the exact size of https://shop.aquacomputer.de/product_info.php?products_id=2572, i have cut to make in a panel and want it to be the more precise possible.


----------



## zeroibis

Does anyone have a template for the AQ6 LT mounting? Actually, now that I think of it I can just put the screws though some thin cardboard and then use that as the drill template.


----------



## Aenra

zeroibis said:


> It can handle a max of two when connected via aquabus; however, if you connect them via USB you are only limited by the number of USB devices your system can support.


Aaah, i see! I thought it was an 'either or' type of situation.. thanks for clarifying


----------



## NoiseBoy

*Heaps of LED fans on one Quadro*

For anybody who is interested, I have successfully modded some of my Corsair LED fan hubs to work with the Quadro and Splitty4... This has allowed me to plug in 16 Corsair ML fans to just one Quadro and Splitty4... Normally this would need 4 Quadro's and 4 Splitty4's, at significant extra cost and adding heaps more clutter in the case.

Please note, I'm talking about LED control only here, using RGBpx... Fan control is entirely seperate and much simpler.

I plugged in 11 ML fans tonight on a test bench and it all worked perfectly... But should also be fine with up to 16 fans. You can plug in more fans (up to 24) but are limited to 64 LEDs in total.

The mod involves cutting a small trace on the PCB of the corsair LED fan hub and add a short jumper wire. As well as making a 3-pin to 4-pin cable to connect each fan hub to the Splitty4.

I have confirmed that the Corsair addressable LED strips work with the Quadro as well. They simply require a custom cable as well.

Below is a photo of the PCB mod on the Corsair fan hub... Sorry for the crappy lighting, it's late at night here.

PLEASE NOTE... THIS MODDED FAN HUB WILL NO LONGER WORK WITH CORSAIR LIGHTING NODE PRODUCTS... IF YOU TRY THAT IT WILL PROBABLY BLOW UP YOUR FANS!!!! I HAVE USED A PIN THAT IS NORMALLY 5V AND CONNECTED IT TO THE DATA LINES OF THE FANS.


----------



## Spin Cykle

Does anyone have an update status on the D5 aquabus pump? I know it was discontinued, but I haven’t heard if s replacement D5 is coming soon or if AQ has phased out the pump entirely?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro


----------



## GTXJackBauer

Spin Cykle said:


> Does anyone have an update status on the D5 aquabus pump? I know it was discontinued, but I haven’t heard if s replacement D5 is coming soon or if AQ has phased out the pump entirely?
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro


I remember a few months ago they kept saying end of summer Aug/Sept. Well I see we're almost to Oct. and haven't heard anything yet.


----------



## JasonMorris

Your dreams have been answered.
https://forum.aquacomputer.de/weite...2-new-d5-next-the-complete-solution/?4eee7d10


----------



## zeroibis

JasonMorris said:


> Your dreams have been answered.
> https://forum.aquacomputer.de/weite...2-new-d5-next-the-complete-solution/?4eee7d10


Finally!

Reading now!


----------



## zeroibis

Real question now is if the NEXT is the only variant or if it will be possible to just get a basic version with only a USB/AQ connection or something.


----------



## zeroibis

The new D5 top is great! https://forum.aquacomputer.de/weite...erfect-team-partner-for-the-d5-next/?88070060

Only 1 screw needed to mount and dismount the pump makes this an easy choice for any build that cares about fast and easy maintenance.


----------



## Shoggy

zeroibis said:


> Real question now is if the NEXT is the only variant or if it will be possible to just get a basic version with only a USB/AQ connection or something.


There will be no further variants.


----------



## GTXJackBauer

Shoggy said:


> There will be no further variants.


Does that include dual pump variants with cylinder reservoirs? Will we be able to at least do that? I enjoy having two for a peace of mind. I can't ever go back to single pump loops since using two for redundancy and extra pumping power while running the pumps at lower speeds. I really hope we are able to have that option.


----------



## YNONO

With the Quadro can you use one of the fan headers to control a D5 pump.
I guess what I’m asking is in the aquasuite software is there a drop-down menu for the fan headers.
Seems like I’ve heard that there was someplace now I can’t find it.


----------



## Aenra

GTXJackBauer said:


> dual pump variants


Also interested in this.

* Just read the two forum posts linked above! Nice! Those ultidampers look like quite the thing too 
Admittedly, i've more questions that comments at this time (i swear, often enough, AQ's products seem overcomplicated to me), but am sure most will be covered soon enough.

** Am sure this has already been thought of, but are we to expect more mounting solutions? Like, say, 120/140mm fan bracket mounts for the ultidampers? One'd be looking at drilling otherwise. All well and good on a cheap 80euro chassis, but if it's cost you a.. bit more, lol, i don't know.


----------



## GTXJackBauer

Aenra said:


> Also interested in this.
> 
> * Just read the two forum posts linked above! Nice! Those ultidampers look like quite the thing too
> Admittedly, i've more questions that comments at this time (i swear, often enough, AQ's products seem overcomplicated to me), but am sure most will be covered soon enough.
> 
> ** Am sure this has already been thought of, but are we to expect more mounting solutions? Like, say, 120/140mm fan bracket mounts for the ultidampers? One'd be looking at drilling otherwise. All well and good on a cheap 80euro chassis, but if it's cost you a.. bit more, lol, i don't know.


Right on! I would love to see if I could somehow get a dual D5 setup with either one or two cylinder reservoirs held by the drives cages in the Corsair 900D where they have 120mm fan hole placements so I could just use that to hold the pumps and reservoirs. 

I could only wish it's this simple as I refuse to mod my case. lol


----------



## war4peace

GTXJackBauer said:


> dual pump variants





Aenra said:


> Also interested in this.





GTXJackBauer said:


> Right on! I would love to see if I could somehow get a dual D5 setup


Add me to the list of interested fellas. I have the dual D5 setup from EKWB but it's... well, ugly. I would have loved the volute to be clear acrylic and with RGB.
Really hoping for a company to start offering that type of solution.


----------



## Aenra

GTXJackBauer said:


> I refuse to mod my case


Likewise.. mine cost me over 2 grand and i'm not a well off person, took a looong time to raise the money. If i had to drill once or twice for every build i set up.. not even contemplating it 
Am hoping they've considered mounting but being so early on, have simply showcased the two central parts; which would make sense, lol

Since i'm posting again, i'd also like to express my desire to see an updated/newer combo unit. If Shoggy could inform us, if it's planned or not, that would be nice.

* oh, and Shoggy? If you _do_ make a newer combo unit? For the love of God, mark the inlet this time around.. you have a lot of cool products, but make it real hard for beginners to pick yours over someone else's.


----------



## zeroibis

Hoping for a dual pump option that can mount to a 360 or 280 rad and have the screen up facing so you could see the readout from a top window on at least one of the two pumps.


----------



## zeroibis

Is there anything special we need to do in order to configure more than 8 software sensors? I need to configure a sensor for each hard drive in order to then average groups of them together in a virtual sensor that can be used to control the related fan. 

The limit of 8 appears to be a purely software based arbitrary limitation. Is it possible this limit could be removed in the next version or in an update?

I need to be able to set at least 24 software sensors to pickup the temp data from the underline 24 HDDs. 

If the limit exists as some sort of motivator to get users to buy more hardware to support more software sensors could you please just sell a license to unlock more. You get $$ and we get more features without requiring additional arbitrary hardware.

On a related note it would be nice to have the option for more than just 4 Virtual Temperature Sensors and if we could have more than 3 inputs for a given virtual temperature sensor as well.

What I want to be able to do is pretty strait forward:
I have a group of 8 drives all cooled by 1 fan for example. I want to use a setpoint controller based on the highest temp of those 8 drives.


----------



## Aenra

zeroibis said:


> I want to use a setpoint controller based on the highest temp of those 8 drives.


Have asked you before, but (so i gathered anyhow) you took it as an afront rather than a genuine question;

Why this.. complexity? It's one fan yeah? Run it stable at x RPM, if under heavy loads it's not enough to cool the drives, run it stable x+200 RPM. Done.
Why all these diagrams and extra loops and states and math? 

8 spinners, along with God knows what else in there, you won't be "hearing" that one certain fan anyway.


----------



## zeroibis

Aenra said:


> Have asked you before, but (so i gathered anyhow) you took it as an afront rather than a genuine question;
> 
> Why this.. complexity? It's one fan yeah? Run it stable at x RPM, if under heavy loads it's not enough to cool the drives, run it stable x+200 RPM. Done.
> Why all these diagrams and extra loops and states and math?
> 
> 8 spinners, along with God knows what else in there, you won't be "hearing" that one certain fan anyway.


Because most of the time those drives are not even moving and I do not want or need those fans moving either. 

I mean you could make the same argument for the existence of the Aquaero itself. Why all this complexity why not just set your loop fans and be done with it. I mean why even have water cooling in the first place it is just complexity. 

We are here on a thread for a product that literally exists for the sake of allowing arbitrarily complex cooling operations to be automated. I am arguing that said product should give us more control so we can do more complex stuff. Your argument is we should not be trying to do complex stuff. My argument is if we are not trying to do complex stuff, why are we here.

Also I am not talking about 1 fan. I am talking about controlling one fan per group of drives. 

It is not as though my use case is the only one wanting more flexibility in the software and virtual sensors. I believe people asked about this years ago but it was said the AQ5 could not handle it. Also the things I am looking it have no reason they could not be done on the windows software side given the data can only be obtained from the OS anyways.


----------



## Aenra

zeroibis said:


> I mean you could make the same argument for the existence of the Aquaero itself


Your way of phrasing your response tells me you're already annoyed, so spoilers alert, lol, stop reading now 

And, nope ^^
i) You want push-pull, you need pulse driving. You need pulse driving, you need a chip that can read accurately, read consistently (units of time) and send back accurately, regardless of external factors.
Which is why no motherboard, no matter how expensive, is up to this task. Which is why people pay almost 200 euros for a controller.
Try it yourself. Run a fan worth its salt through a mobo, any mobo, with tach attached to an AQ; see the fluctuation and imagine it on push-pull.
ii) nothing else allows for _that_ many fans to be driven consistently.

That's cold logic.
Beyond that is, well; preference i guess.

So the reason i asked and you haven't replied, lol, not yet, is that with 8 spinners and God knows what else in there (yes, am repeating myself), you'd never "hear" this one fan running. Who cares if your drives are running or not, if they're running full tilt or are merely active; you'd never hear it anyway. So.. why not set it to something stable and call it a day? Spare yourself the respectable amount of time it would take to sort out all those graphs and tables? And then yet more time to test if it functions 'just so'? You'd never hear it anyway, you'd never know.
('people ask for it' isn't reason; 'x' due to 'y' though, that's different)

Put differently, am trying to grasp why folks like to make their life _so_ much more complicated when there's _zero_ practical benefit in doing so. Meta levels, but..


----------



## zeroibis

I love how without knowing what I have or my environment you know exactly how loud or not loud something is. 

I already have a system where I am forced the run the fans the way you want me to and the fans are the loudest part and most of the time they do not need to be running that loud but I am forced to keep them on a loud setting even when all the drives are not spinning. 

You just see 8 drives and go oh man 8 spinning drives when I had a spiny drive it was really loud this must be 8 times louder. I am literally next to the dam drives right now, I will be the authority on how loud an object that is literally next to me is. So we do not need a philosopher in here about how loud we think something should be, I am telling you how loud it is as a matter of actual fact. 

It is way quieter if I manually go and turn down the fans when there not needed but then I got to turn them back up every time I am accessing the array heavily and it is annoying. It would be like manually tuning your fans every time your gaming. 

But oh look they invented this great device that does the stuff automatically and I thought oh hey that is a great solution I use on my gaming rig. I should get that and not need to do all this manual crap.

You are deciding the pros and cons of something that you can never judge because you have no data other than your feelings to make a judgment on. I am the only person physically here listening to the thing running. There is no point in having a debate over it as there is nothing to debate, I have the results right next to me. 

Luckily I do have some a plan of how I can still achieve the results I need within the existing limitations; however, that does not change the fact that the current limitations come across as mostly arbitrary.


----------



## Abaidor

Well it seems like the new D5 is here:

https://www.techpowerup.com/248299/...smart-pump-with-integrated-led-fan-controller










PWM, RGB, Flow Sensor on board, Temp Sensor, USB, Fan Controller on board.....

119 EUR

I use the DUAL D5s REVO from EK and I am already thinking of changing the pumps to two of these..


----------



## Aenra

The price is excellent given what the D5 Next offers, was actually surprised to see it this low; which has err, redefined my notion of 'patience', least regarding this baby, lol. So that being the case!

@*Shoggy* forgive me..
i) instructions mention that using the silicon decoupler makes the touch slider inaccessible; might be just me (probably..), but where _is_ that slider? It doesn't show in any of the pics, does it? All i can see are the three buttons.
ii) assuming a scenario where the device is *not* connected to mobo or AQ, totally standalone; 
a) if i just power it up, what's the default RPM the pump is run at? 
b) excluding diagrams/conditions for varied performances (ie the typical AQsuite functions), will i still be able to control pump and fans? Any limitations? 
c) in said standalone fashion, are the settings 'saved' after a complete power off?
iii) assuming the worst, can we, in the future, use an existing D5.. normal.. pump to replace the one inside the enclosure? Am guessing no, but better to ask.

And again, do forgive me yeah? I know i ask a lot of questions


----------



## GTXJackBauer

My one disappointment on the new AC D5 is the SATA header. I wish it was a small header leading to the SATA connector as atm, you'll have to fish a PSU cable through your case to the pump's location. A smaller header with a extension cable to a SATA connector behind the MB panel would have been more ideal.


----------



## Shoggy

GTXJackBauer said:


> Does that include dual pump variants with cylinder reservoirs? Will we be able to at least do that? I enjoy having two for a peace of mind. I can't ever go back to single pump loops since using two for redundancy and extra pumping power while running the pumps at lower speeds. I really hope we are able to have that option.


I am sorry, but I can not comment on what might be or not.

Since I know that you are also a member in the EVGA forums you maybe could do me a little favor  Thanks to a completely misinformed member, other users think they have to always purchase the software separately and have to renew it every year. I am talking about these two topics: first topic, second topic

If you want to it would be nice if you could copy these two simple facts to these topics:

• Every newly purchased device that is supported by the aquasuite software comes with a license for at least two major version. This includes all intermediate versions of course.
• The license does not expire, so there is no need to spend additional money to use the device or software. *This is not a subscription!*



YNONO said:


> With the Quadro can you use one of the fan headers to control a D5 pump.
> I guess what I’m asking is in the aquasuite software is there a drop-down menu for the fan headers.
> Seems like I’ve heard that there was someplace now I can’t find it.


I am not sure what you are asking for: an option to switch from fan to pump? If so, this is not possible nor required since there is no difference how a PWM fan or PWM pump will be controlled.



Aenra said:


> ** Am sure this has already been thought of, but are we to expect more mounting solutions? Like, say, 120/140mm fan bracket mounts for the ultidampers? One'd be looking at drilling otherwise. All well and good on a cheap 80euro chassis, but if it's cost you a.. bit more, lol, i don't know.


A mount with 120 and 140 mm fan dimensions is already in development and should be available soon.



zeroibis said:


> Is there anything special we need to do in order to configure more than 8 software sensors? (...)
> 
> The limit of 8 appears to be a purely software based arbitrary limitation. Is it possible this limit could be removed in the next version or in an update? (...)
> 
> On a related note it would be nice to have the option for more than just 4 Virtual Temperature Sensors and if we could have more than 3 inputs for a given virtual temperature sensor as well.


In theory it is a software limitation but it also has to do with hardware. Such sensors must be also processed by the CPU of the aquaero and we do not have an endless amount processing power. Keep in mind that with every feature that we add we have to assume that there are some freaks out there that will use ALL of them at the same time. The aquaero must be still able to handle this. If you set up an aquaero will all possible features including maximum aquabus setup you can already notice some kind of delays when operating the device. This will not become better by adding even more software sensors. The same is also true for the virtual temperature sensors.



Aenra said:


> i) instructions mention that using the silicon decoupler makes the touch slider inaccessible; might be just me (probably..), but where _is_ that slider? It doesn't show in any of the pics, does it? All i can see are the three buttons.
> ii) assuming a scenario where the device is *not* connected to mobo or AQ, totally standalone;
> a) if i just power it up, what's the default RPM the pump is run at?
> b) excluding diagrams/conditions for varied performances (ie the typical AQsuite functions), will i still be able to control pump and fans? Any limitations?
> c) in said standalone fashion, are the settings 'saved' after a complete power off?
> iii) assuming the worst, can we, in the future, use an existing D5.. normal.. pump to replace the one inside the enclosure? Am guessing no, but better to ask.


1.) If you look at this photo it is the area above the "MADE IN GERMANY" lettering that looks a bit like a volume bar.
2a.) Full speed with factory settings, otherwise what you have set it to the last time
2b.) You can adjust most settings of the pump and fans also directly through the pumps menu but it will be annoying - the software is much easier to handle. The LEDs can not be controlled through pumps own interface since this is way too complex and requires the software.
2c.) Yes, of course.
3.) In theory you could replace only the pump but it will require a good amount of will to modify the pump. Of course you could get the pump with preinstalled interface as replacement but without the additional electronic (the lower part with the controller board, display, LEDs etc.)


----------



## zeroibis

Shoggy said:


> In theory it is a software limitation but it also has to do with hardware. Such sensors must be also processed by the CPU of the aquaero and we do not have an endless amount processing power. Keep in mind that with every feature that we add we have to assume that there are some freaks out there that will use ALL of them at the same time. The aquaero must be still able to handle this. If you set up an aquaero will all possible features including maximum aquabus setup you can already notice some kind of delays when operating the device. This will not become better by adding even more software sensors. The same is also true for the virtual temperature sensors.


This was the response to someone else who had asked the question many years back about the same thing except with the AQ5, I would presume that the AQ6 is at least somewhat more advanced than the AQ5 and able to support at least a little bit more. 

Also there are now features within aquasuite such as the data export for example that clearly only work if your actually booted into windows. It would be nice to see the software add extra options beyond what the limitations of the physical AQ hardware would allow. There could be a separate area for these sensors so people know they only work when your booted into windows or some other similar way to implement such capability. Heck you could even sell such things as some software addons to the general aquasuite package.


----------



## carlouws

Is it possible to use the D5 Next in a Pump/Res Combo configuration?


----------



## GTXJackBauer

Shoggy said:


> I am sorry, but I can not comment on what might be or not.


Alright fair enough but it would be nice to know so we can plan ahead and budget for such a purchase and plan out our designs, etc. I just hope you guys do something for the multi pump users as there's a good number of us out there and we're seeing more and more people do the same.



Shoggy said:


> Since I know that you are also a member in the EVGA forums you maybe could do me a little favor  Thanks to a completely misinformed member, other users think they have to always purchase the software separately and have to renew it every year. I am talking about these two topics: first topic, second topic
> 
> If you want to it would be nice if you could copy these two simple facts to these topics:
> 
> • Every newly purchased device that is supported by the aquasuite software comes with a license for at least two major version. This includes all intermediate versions of course.
> • The license does not expire, so there is no need to spend additional money to use the device or software. *This is not a subscription!*


No problem. Took care of the misinformed in the other forums and will do my best to inform more folks if the need arises again.




Shoggy said:


> A mount with 120 and 140 mm fan dimensions is already in development and should be available soon.


Can those mounts handle two D5 NEXT pumps with a serial top and reservoirs filled?  (HINT!)


----------



## zeroibis

GTXJackBauer said:


> Can those mounts handle two D5 NEXT pumps with a serial top and reservoirs filled?  (HINT!)


At minimum I hope they can handle two D5 NEXT pumps in serial direct mounted to a vertical 280 rad.


----------



## Aenra

Thank you so much for the detailed response Shoggy 

(are we ever getting that rep button back btw..)


----------



## Shoggy

zeroibis said:


> This was the response to someone else who had asked the question many years back about the same thing except with the AQ5, I would presume that the AQ6 is at least somewhat more advanced than the AQ5 and able to support at least a little bit more.


aquaero 5 and 6 use the same CPU so they also have the same limitations.



carlouws said:


> Is it possible to use the D5 Next in a Pump/Res Combo configuration?


Yes, you can use the pump with almost every D5 pump adapter.



GTXJackBauer said:


> No problem. Took care of the misinformed in the other forums and will do my best to inform more folks if the need arises again.
> 
> Can those mounts handle two D5 NEXT pumps with a serial top and reservoirs filled?  (HINT!)


Thanks for sharing the info about the aquasuite in the other fourm :thumb:

By the way since it was also asked there: the pump works autonomous of course! There is no need at all to use the software. Or to say it in some more harsh words: we are not doing that software based sh** that most of our competitors do  Having autonomous working devices is a key feature for us. 

The mount will take a single pump. At the moment we are trying to add support for the aqualis reservoirs so the mount can be used for it too.


----------



## Aenra

Shoggy said:


> The mount will take a single pump. At the moment we are trying to add support for the aqualis reservoirs so the mount can be used for it too.


:wubsmiley :wubsmiley


----------



## zeroibis

Feature request:

Ability to change the order of items in the 'data export' section (within aquasuite web). Currently items are always displayed in the order they were added. Sometimes you have quite a few items and decide you want a different order but there is no way to change the order without starting over.


----------



## zeroibis

Feature request:

Aquasuite Sensors!

Currently, Aquasuite is able to grab data on its own from the system for things like cpu, gpu, memory, disks, and even other programs like HWmonitor and then present this data to the Aquaero. The Aquaero is able to use the data provided by the Aquasuite service in various software and virtual temperature sensors. However, the Aquaero is limited in the number of such sensors that it can support while the Aquasuite service is not. Therefore a great feature would be to allow the creation of Aquasuite sensors which can then be used by the Aquaero. In this way you could take data from multiple software sensors that Aquasuite has access to and do things like find the highest or lowest value, average them etc. before sending the resulting value to the Aquaero. This allows you to get around the limits of only 4 virtual sensors on the Aquaero and allows you to have more than 3 inputs for virtual sensors by processing the data before sending it to the Aquaero.


----------



## Mega Man

JasonMorris said:


> Your dreams have been answered.
> https://forum.aquacomputer.de/weite...2-new-d5-next-the-complete-solution/?4eee7d10


 @Shoggy@ mad props, this is grea, for the ddc lovers, please make one..... 
still hoping you will go ahead with the IR module..... because, that is an amazing feature to have, for HTPCs [email protected][email protected]


----------



## Amphetamine

zeroibis said:


> Feature request:
> 
> Aquasuite Sensors!
> 
> Currently, Aquasuite is able to grab data on its own from the system for things like cpu, gpu, memory, disks, and even other programs like HWmonitor and then present this data to the Aquaero. The Aquaero is able to use the data provided by the Aquasuite service in various software and virtual temperature sensors. However, the Aquaero is limited in the number of such sensors that it can support while the Aquasuite service is not. Therefore a great feature would be to allow the creation of Aquasuite sensors which can then be used by the Aquaero. In this way you could take data from multiple software sensors that Aquasuite has access to and do things like find the highest or lowest value, average them etc. before sending the resulting value to the Aquaero. This allows you to get around the limits of only 4 virtual sensors on the Aquaero and allows you to have more than 3 inputs for virtual sensors by processing the data before sending it to the Aquaero.



As someone who's loop is set up Pump>CPU>Rad>GPU>Rad>Reservoir>Pump; has liquid temperature sensors after CPU, GPU and Pump and wants to control 2 banks of 3x140mm radiator fans, 1 bank of 6x 140mm intake fans and the pump speed. Controling it by means of DeltaT over ambient for the radiator fan banks, the intake fans matching the speed of the fastest radiator bank (roughly) and the pump speed being based on the temperature difference between the hottest part of the loop and the temperature at the pump. I basically need a minimum of 5 virtual sensors to do this. Right now I'm using a hacky workaround, but it's not ideal and so I 2nd zeroibis' suggestion.


----------



## DanBr

*All USB not recognized*

My system is 3 yrs old and the MPS pump, MPS flow meter and MPS says not recognized by system. It is asking me to remove device. Under Aquaero System it says firmware up to date although I have not updated recently. Under Aquasuite I get this (see attached). Occasionally when click on the Aquasuite icon to open the data page it I lose video, screen goes black although everything else is still running. do I need to update firmware?
Any help appreciated.
dan


----------



## broodro0ster

DanBr said:


> My system is 3 yrs old and the MPS pump, MPS flow meter and MPS says not recognized by system. It is asking me to remove device. Under Aquaero System it says firmware up to date although I have not updated recently. Under Aquasuite I get this (see attached). Occasionally when click on the Aquasuite icon to open the data page it I lose video, screen goes black although everything else is still running. do I need to update firmware?
> Any help appreciated.
> dan


Are they connected via aquabus? If I recall correctly, you can't update devices via aquabus and you need to connect them via USB to update them. 
Maybe you need a firmware update to be compatible with aquasuite 2017?


----------



## DanBr

broodro0ster said:


> Are they connected via aquabus? If I recall correctly, you can't update devices via aquabus and you need to connect them via USB to update them.
> Maybe you need a firmware update to be compatible with aquasuite 2017?


My understanding of this is weak, but I know that there are USB connections to the motherboard for things from Aquaero. With the case mod I did, I would have to disassemble the computer to get to Aquaero.
dan


----------



## broodro0ster

DanBr said:


> My understanding of this is weak, but I know that there are USB connections to the motherboard for things from Aquaero. With the case mod I did, I would have to disassemble the computer to get to Aquaero.
> 
> dan




Did you update your Aquaero and Aquasuite recently? Because if you did that’s, it’s likely that you have to update the other devices via USB. I don’t think that you need access to the Aquaero, but just to the other devices. Unplug the aquabus and connect them via usb to update them.


----------



## DanBr

broodro0ster said:


> Did you update your Aquaero and Aquasuite recently? Because if you did that’s, it’s likely that you have to update the other devices via USB. I don’t think that you need access to the Aquaero, but just to the other devices. Unplug the aquabus and connect them via usb to update them.


I did not update anything recently, and I apologize but I do not understand what you mean by unplug the aquabus, and how would I run updates for the others via USB?
Which updates do I download from Aquasuite?

dan


----------



## exploiteddna

never used any aquaero product, never really monitored my water loop telemetry, only ever used analog fan controller with knobs. Im looking for a good solution to display critical telemetry data (temp, flow, anything else important), control my fans and pump, and have it mounted in my O11-dynamic so the panel can be seen through either the front or left side glass case panels. 

Can someone sort of give me a rundown of everything i would need to pick up from PPCs to make this happen? 

assume i have nothing aside from my already built loop. (i also may need to swap my d5 vario for a different d5 that can be controlled via aquaero. I also want either white, black, or white/black mix (no silver/chrome). Include any mounting stuff i may need too. Money isn't *really* an issue.. i mean.. within reason of course, but i know these things arent cheap.

Thanks.. I feel really overwhelmed after reading about 20 pages of the thread..


----------



## broodro0ster

DanBr said:


> I did not update anything recently, and I apologize but I do not understand what you mean by unplug the aquabus, and how would I run updates for the others via USB?
> Which updates do I download from Aquasuite?
> 
> dan


Hmm, if you didn't update anything, then it should still work.
I don't own all the external devices you have, so maybe it would be better to tag Shoggy here or send an email to their support.


----------



## jura11

DanBr said:


> My system is 3 yrs old and the MPS pump, MPS flow meter and MPS says not recognized by system. It is asking me to remove device. Under Aquaero System it says firmware up to date although I have not updated recently. Under Aquasuite I get this (see attached). Occasionally when click on the Aquasuite icon to open the data page it I lose video, screen goes black although everything else is still running. do I need to update firmware?
> Any help appreciated.
> dan


Hi there 

I would suggest check connection on the MPS flow and pump and if its possible check Aquaero as well if sensors are connected, assuming you have yours Flow and pump connected through the Aquabus, are you using USB connection on MPS sensors or they're not connected? 

Other than that if you are don't have enough USB ports have look on Aquacomputer USB Hubby7, have this one and is well worth it

SPLITTY9 is another option for you,if you connect multiple Aquabus connections on single port,I have 5 in my PC and loop

Did you tried revert to older Aquasuite if this does help and if yours MPS sensor will show up in older Aquasuite 

Hope this helps 

Thanks, Jura


----------



## carlouws

michaelrw said:


> never used any aquaero product, never really monitored my water loop telemetry, only ever used analog fan controller with knobs. Im looking for a good solution to display critical telemetry data (temp, flow, anything else important), control my fans and pump, and have it mounted in my O11-dynamic so the panel can be seen through either the front or left side glass case panels.
> 
> Can someone sort of give me a rundown of everything i would need to pick up from PPCs to make this happen?
> 
> assume i have nothing aside from my already built loop. (i also may need to swap my d5 vario for a different d5 that can be controlled via aquaero. I also want either white, black, or white/black mix (no silver/chrome). Include any mounting stuff i may need too. Money isn't *really* an issue.. i mean.. within reason of course, but i know these things arent cheap.
> 
> Thanks.. I feel really overwhelmed after reading about 20 pages of the thread..


If all you need is to monitor your loop temp, control your fans, pump rpm, etc... Then I would say, just go with the newly released D5 Next. I believe it accomplishes everything you need.


----------



## exploiteddna

carlouws said:


> If all you need is to monitor your loop temp, control your fans, pump rpm, etc... Then I would say, just go with the newly released D5 Next. I believe it accomplishes everything you need.


this is just a pump though.. what about the rest of it? im looking at the 6 XT (black) .. but once you have the controller, im not sure how you set everything up.. where/how do you place the water temp probes, flow meters, etc., do i need to buy all these different devices that will collect data and send it to the controller? I like the remote control on 6 XT as it may prevent me from having to remove the side panel of the case all the time.


----------



## MoDeNa

Hi all,

I am planning to build a custom loop with the following parts:

- CPU block: Heatkiller IV Pro Intel
- VGA block: Heatkiller IV GTX 1080 Ti Nikel + Acrylic
- Radiators: 2 x Hardware Labs Black Ice GTS 360
- Pump: Singularity Computers Protium D5 or EKWB D5 
- Pump Cover: Singularity Computers Acrylic
- Reservoir: Singularity Computers 200mm
- Fittings: Bitspower EML16 for PETG tube and rotatory fittings all of them black sparkle
- Tube: Bitspower None Chanfer PETG link tube 16mm OD
- Aquacomputer inline sensor temp
- Aquaero 6 LT

I need a flow sensor to monitor my loop. Could you recommend me which one I should chose? I am seeing different options (pressure sensor mps with different pressure Delta from 1000 to 100) and high flow sensors. 

I am bit lost with the options. Any help?

Many thanks in advance.


----------



## war4peace

MoDeNa said:


> Hi all,
> 
> I am planning to build a custom loop with the following parts:
> 
> - CPU block: Heatkiller IV Pro Intel
> - VGA block: Heatkiller IV GTX 1080 Ti Nikel + Acrylic
> - Radiators: 2 x Hardware Labs Black Ice GTS 360
> - Pump: Singularity Computers Protium D5 or EKWB D5
> - Pump Cover: Singularity Computers Acrylic
> - Reservoir: Singularity Computers 200mm
> - Fittings: Bitspower EML16 for PETG tube and rotatory fittings all of them black sparkle
> - Tube: Bitspower None Chanfer PETG link tube 16mm OD
> - Aquacomputer inline sensor temp
> - Aquaero 6 LT
> 
> I need a flow sensor to monitor my loop. Could you recommend me which one I should chose? I am seeing different options (pressure sensor mps with different pressure Delta from 1000 to 100) and high flow sensors.
> 
> I am bit lost with the options. Any help?
> 
> Many thanks in advance.


I have the aquacomputer high flow sensor, the mechanical one, and it works flawlessly. I had it mounted both immediately after the pump (which many people said isn't recommended), and before the reservoir in another situation. Same values reported for same loop, with a 0.05 L/m variance immediately after the pump and 0.03L/m variance before the reservoir. 
I had it mounted horizontally, vertically, upside-down and have not noticed any problem, noise or strange behavior.
Just remember to buy a cable for it, which goes into the Aquaero, I didn't know the first time I bought it and spent two months having it mounted without a cable, measuring... nothing 

Dunno about the MPS sensors, but I have ordered one a few days ago for my 2nd loop, because the mechanical one was not in stock anywhere. I got the MPS 400 because the 2nd loop will be straightforward (pump-monoblock-radiator-reservoir) and includes a 200mm / 85mm thick radiator in push-pull so I expect flows in the vicinity of 250 L/h.


----------



## carlouws

michaelrw said:


> this is just a pump though.. what about the rest of it? im looking at the 6 XT (black) .. but once you have the controller, im not sure how you set everything up.. where/how do you place the water temp probes, flow meters, etc., do i need to buy all these different devices that will collect data and send it to the controller? I like the remote control on 6 XT as it may prevent me from having to remove the side panel of the case all the time.


The pump includes the controller. The pump has an integrated temp sensor and flow sensor. It connects to your computer via USB. You can control your device via software and it will save everything to the device meaning that you don't need to have the software running for it to be functioning as you specified.


----------



## Aenra

Which is why i said the pricing's excellent really; you add the integrated fan controller on top..


----------



## exploiteddna

carlouws said:


> The pump includes the controller. The pump has an integrated temp sensor and flow sensor. It connects to your computer via USB. You can control your device via software and it will save everything to the device meaning that you don't need to have the software running for it to be functioning as you specified.


yes, all that is true, but for aesthetics i would really like to have an lcd display mounted inside the glass panel of my case.. while i like the features of the NEXT, the lcd display on it is not nearly big enough. So..


----------



## MoDeNa

war4peace said:


> I have the aquacomputer high flow sensor, the mechanical one, and it works flawlessly. I had it mounted both immediately after the pump (which many people said isn't recommended), and before the reservoir in another situation. Same values reported for same loop, with a 0.05 L/m variance immediately after the pump and 0.03L/m variance before the reservoir.
> I had it mounted horizontally, vertically, upside-down and have not noticed any problem, noise or strange behavior.
> Just remember to buy a cable for it, which goes into the Aquaero, I didn't know the first time I bought it and spent two months having it mounted without a cable, measuring... nothing
> 
> Dunno about the MPS sensors, but I have ordered one a few days ago for my 2nd loop, because the mechanical one was not in stock anywhere. I got the MPS 400 because the 2nd loop will be straightforward (pump-monoblock-radiator-reservoir) and includes a 200mm / 85mm thick radiator in push-pull so I expect flows in the vicinity of 250 L/h.


I will go with the high flow sensor and its specific cable. I just want it to check that my loop's health is fine 

Many thanks!


----------



## zeroibis

michaelrw said:


> this is just a pump though.. what about the rest of it? im looking at the 6 XT (black) .. but once you have the controller, im not sure how you set everything up.. where/how do you place the water temp probes, flow meters, etc., do i need to buy all these different devices that will collect data and send it to the controller? I like the remote control on 6 XT as it may prevent me from having to remove the side panel of the case all the time.


The D5 Next can give you 1 fan control so if you want all your fans the same speed then split this and your good. If you need more channels you will want to have an AQ 6XL. The pump has a built in temp sensor and can also take the air temp however only the Aquaero can create virtual temp sensors and thus if you want to base fan speed off of the delta T then the only way to do this is with the AQ5/6.


----------



## Spin Cykle

Where do you guys keep your Temp sensor for the Ambient reading to create a DeltaT? I feel like the sensor needs to be a foot or two away from the case just to prevent ambient heating as load increases on the total system.


----------



## skingun

In front of the intake fans.


----------



## Aenra

I have a request too, though not D5 Next related 

Shoggy, could we please have the following offered in a more.. reasonable height version?
Say 200 or so ml?

https://shop.aquacomputer.de/product_info.php?products_id=2924

(unless i'm missing something, far as this variant's concerned, there's nothing smaller available)


----------



## Spin Cykle

skingun said:


> In front of the intake fans.


I've done that but noticed a rise in Ambient temperature as the radiator heats up from load being placed on the system. This makes it hard to run fan curves on Delta T, because as my water temp rises from load, my ambient should stay the same, but it's not. My ambiet temp during a two hour gaming session was 25.7 - 29.8c. I can't believe my room is actually increasing in ambient temp that much from a gaming session.


----------



## ChiTownButcher

Abaidor said:


> Well it seems like the new D5 is here:
> 
> https://www.techpowerup.com/248299/...smart-pump-with-integrated-led-fan-controller
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> PWM, RGB, Flow Sensor on board, Temp Sensor, USB, Fan Controller on board.....
> 
> 119 EUR
> 
> I use the DUAL D5s REVO from EK and I am already thinking of changing the pumps to two of these..


 @Shoggy a serial double pump version please. Also I noticed that you have Silverstone fans in the video. Do these work with Corsair ML fans for PWM (If I remember there was an issue with the version of PWM Corsair used with the AQ6) and will the RGB work with Halos Lux frames?

Either way that is stunning. Awsome job my hats off to the design team


----------



## looniam

zeroibis said:


> The D5 Next can give you 1 fan control so if you want all your fans the same speed then split this and your good. If you need more channels you will want to have an AQ 6XL. The pump has a built in temp sensor and can also take the air temp however only *the Aquaero can create virtual temp sensors and thus if you want to base fan speed off of the delta T* then the only way to do this is with the AQ5/6.


i never bothered looking there! :doh:



Spoiler













:thumb:

@michaelrw most all of your concerns and questions will disappear once you get a good look at the aquasuite software. i don't know exactly what comes in the box as i got my 6pro in a give away (sponsored by OCN's own TCO) and was happy to see four temp sensors w/one inline. the aquasuite service will read everything that core temp or speed fan will along with PCH temps and what not on the motherboard. getting gpu temps (or sata drives) will need HWinfo or aida running with shared memory checked.

right now with two temps sensors (one inline on the pump out port) i have made water delta controlling the rad fans and pump speed on the cpu package; though i could use my hottest core (#2). right now i am glancing at my HD cage and thinking about using one of those spinner temp (via aida) to control a case fan blowing in them.

a bit ago i had a uniblock on my 980ti, ghetto rigged a 90mm fan on the VRMs, slapped a temp sensor on the back plate and they never went past 76c @1.28v.

good crazy stuff.


----------



## skingun

I guess it depends where your radiator is. I don't have one in the front, just fans. Positioning is going to be specific to your set up.


----------



## Ashcroft

Spin Cykle said:


> I've done that but noticed a rise in Ambient temperature as the radiator heats up from load being placed on the system. This makes it hard to run fan curves on Delta T, because as my water temp rises from load, my ambient should stay the same, but it's not. My ambiet temp during a two hour gaming session was 25.7 - 29.8c. I can't believe my room is actually increasing in ambient temp that much from a gaming session.


On mine its in front of the front intake fans that are mounted to the front rad. In my case the rad is inside the main chasis and the fans are outside with a plastic cover system. The sensor is behind a grill and in front of the Demci filter the fans draw through. It is important to seal the chassis surface the rad is on to prevent air coming back out and affecting the sensors. Only cool ambient air should be drawn over the sensor. Without sealing the chassis the sensor can be affected. 

To make sure the sensor is good I have it graphed as ambient and it holds very steady from system start through game loads and playing for an hour.

If there is not a layer of fans between the sensor and rad it can also be affected by radiant heat if its too close, not just exhaust air feeding back to the sensor.

It can be tricky but its definitely doable. 

I've had setups before where the ambient sensor was corrupted by exhaust. The system got warmer and warmer but the fans didn't ramp up because the delta stayed the same.


----------



## Ginja ninja

Hi everyone!

I am in need of some advice regarding my Aquaero upgrade. I am currently using an Aquaero 5LT with a EKWB PWM pump connected to the PWM fan header. I am planning to use 6 Lian Li Bora Lite PWM fans, 3 for the 360 rad with a further 3 as intake. I have just purchased a Farbwerk to control the RGB but am not sure if I should order a Quadro to control the PWM fans. If getting the Quadro is the best option, how should I connect the two devices to the 5LT as it only has one Aqubus header? I would be grateful for any suggestions.

Thanks!


----------



## Ashcroft

Ginja ninja said:


> Hi everyone!
> 
> I am in need of some advice regarding my Aquaero upgrade. I am currently using an Aquaero 5LT with a EKWB PWM pump connected to the PWM fan header. I am planning to use 6 Lian Li Bora Lite PWM fans, 3 for the 360 rad with a further 3 as intake. I have just purchased a Farbwerk to control the RGB but am not sure if I should order a Quadro to control the PWM fans. If getting the Quadro is the best option, how should I connect the two devices to the 5LT as it only has one Aqubus header? I would be grateful for any suggestions.
> 
> Thanks!


You use a splitter for the Aquabus just like a fan splitter cable. Some PWM fan splitter cables and boards will work with Aquabus, they just need to have all 4 wires joined on all connectors instead of the normal practice of having pin 3/ rpm pin not connected to all so the controller doesn't get multiple rpm signals. 
Bitfenix PWM splitters will work, the modmytoys unpowered PWM splitter boards work or you can but the Aquacomputer splitty device that is designed for Aquabus connections.

http://www.performance-pcs.com/modmytoys-4-pin-pwm-power-distribution-pcb-4-way-block.html


----------



## war4peace

Spin Cykle said:


> I've done that but noticed a rise in Ambient temperature as the radiator heats up from load being placed on the system. This makes it hard to run fan curves on Delta T, because as my water temp rises from load, my ambient should stay the same, but it's not. My ambiet temp during a two hour gaming session was 25.7 - 29.8c. I can't believe my room is actually increasing in ambient temp that much from a gaming session.


While I've seen small rooms heating by 3-4 degrees Celsius with doors and windows shut, after a couple hours of benchmarking, there's another reason for false readings. Hotter air from the radiators can in some cases create a "warm bubble" of air around the PC, especially if the PC is closely surrounded by at least two walls (e.g. sitting in a corner). I've had my PC positioned in such a way, and my workaround was to set a liquid temperature threshold at 40 degrees Celsius. This way, I didn't care what the ambient readings were.


----------



## broodro0ster

Spin Cykle said:


> Where do you guys keep your Temp sensor for the Ambient reading to create a DeltaT? I feel like the sensor needs to be a foot or two away from the case just to prevent ambient heating as load increases on the total system.


I have it in the vents of the panel. This is about 5cm away from the radiator and it doesn't heat up a lot from the radiator (less than 1c). I have also a second ambient sensor between a different intake and radiator, but that one suffers from radiator heat (about 2C above ambient).

If you know that it's always 1C warmer for example, you can apply a correction to the sensor in Aquasuite. After a long gaming session, my ambient at the front intake raises about 0,5-1°C because some of the exhausted air circulates around my desk. But it never exceeds 1C so i I don't worry to much about it.


----------



## Spin Cykle

war4peace said:


> While I've seen small rooms heating by 3-4 degrees Celsius with doors and windows shut, after a couple hours of benchmarking, there's another reason for false readings. Hotter air from the radiators can in some cases create a "warm bubble" of air around the PC, especially if the PC is closely surrounded by at least two walls (e.g. sitting in a corner). I've had my PC positioned in such a way, and my workaround was to set a liquid temperature threshold at 40 degrees Celsius. This way, I didn't care what the ambient readings were.


Interesting concept on setting a threshold. And I think you're 100% right. The radiators (480 +360) are creating a hot zone around my pc from the radiant heating affect. 

I've basically stopped using a Delta T curve to change fan RPM. And I'm now just using the tempuratre of the loops liquid to control the fans. I know delta t accounts for swings in ambient room temps during seasonal changes (winter/summer), so to combat that issue I'm just ****ting my fans curve left and right (increase/decrease) to adjust for ambient room changes with the seasons.


----------



## Spin Cykle

broodro0ster said:


> I have it in the vents of the panel. This is about 5cm away from the radiator and it doesn't heat up a lot from the radiator (less than 1c). I have also a second ambient sensor between a different intake and radiator, but that one suffers from radiator heat (about 2C above ambient).
> 
> If you know that it's always 1C warmer for example, you can apply a correction to the sensor in Aquasuite. After a long gaming session, my ambient at the front intake raises about 0,5-1°C because some of the exhausted air circulates around my desk. But it never exceeds 1C so i I don't worry to much about it.



Is your temp sensor at the intake infront of a vertically mounted radiator? This would probably account for the smaller rise in ambient room temp during heavy loads (warmer loop/rad temps).

Great idea to apply a temp sensor correction. I'll look into it!


----------



## ChiTownButcher

@Shoggy Am I seeing this correctly that the pump is 4 pin wiring to connect directly to a MOBO fan header or as some of the new boards offer a 4 pin PWM PUMP header? 😀 So no more molex?


----------



## Shoggy

I assume you are talking about the D5 NEXT. This pump can not be controlled by an external PWM signal and there is no way to connect it to a fan header or one of those mysterious pump connectors that some mainboards have.

You can only control it via USB (mainboard) or aquabus (aquaero).


----------



## ChiTownButcher

Shoggy said:


> I assume you are talking about the D5 NEXT. This pump can not be controlled by an external PWM signal and there is no way to connect it to a fan header or one of those mysterious pump connectors that some mainboards have.
> 
> You can only control it via USB (mainboard) or aquabus (aquaero).


 Than why the 4 pin fan type cable? Or is that an internal USB cable? Looking at pics in the article.


----------



## Shoggy

The pump has an integrated PWM fan controller and this is the output to connect such fans


----------



## Aenra

Was a good question actually.. while the cable is evidently a USB one, i too thought, you know, typical PWM pump.. had ChiTown not asked, i'd never have had reason to think otherwise.

On a different topic, i can already picture Shoggy /sighing heavily, but i've got to say this; sorry.
Saw the new D5 Next mounts and you guys don't get it. The 'default' ultidampers(?) already allow for a vertical (surface) installation; so while allowing for a fan-mount placement is an improvement?
Horizontal base is what you should have focused at. That's what's out of the question right now, without a custom-made design, a trip (or three) to a CnC shop, and a trip (or two) to a painter's. That's what i was hoping for.
Not to be picky, as stated, already an improvement as one escapes the drilling, sure; but... think competition; they all have horizontal mounts offered don't they, now why is that.

I sincerely hope it sells, i hope most disagree with me, but.. anyway, no offense meant ^^


----------



## Ashcroft

The D5 NEXT is an interesting looking device though I don't think it offers me anything the old model didn't. For new buyers, sure. I don't need a lot of doubling up on displays, sensors and outputs though. I don't need my pump to control any fans  For some reason that seems really odd to me though I do recognise it could be useful to some people who don't have an Aquaero.

The internal temp sensor is a new idea so I like that but I do wonder about putting a temp sensor inside a sealed cavity with the warm pump electronics. It will be interesting to see how well it tracks the real coolant temp through the stainless steel.

I have no interest in RGB but I do understand that is what the market seems to be fadding on right now. 

I love the SATA power plug directly on the pump body. Thats a real step forward. Though my old models were quite easy to mod with SATA plugs and cable Sleeve because the D5 rear is easy to remove.


I'm curious how the flow sensing system works. If its decent then thats another good feature.

Overall I'm quite impressed. With the caveat that I don't necessarily see the advantage in splitting up all the Aquaero functionality and deviding it to waterblocks and pumps if it ends up costing the same or more but without a centralised control and display besides Aquasuite.

Now I just need someone to pop the back off of one and post a pic of the internal wiring. I'm assuming its quite similar to the old model but would love to see.

I'll also be interested to see how the new D5 top performs too compared to the old one. Has Aquacomp finally embrased the high flow life?


----------



## Aenra

Ashcroft said:


> Has Aquacomp finally embrased the high flow life?




Now if they also 'embrace' the 16/10 fitting which for better or worse is pretty much de facto by now and redesign their product line accordingly (yes, the cost, i know.. but seriously, this needs to happen, i can't be the only customer that looks, wants, but eventually shops from elsewhere)? Why, that would be something.


----------



## broodro0ster

Spin Cykle said:


> Is your temp sensor at the intake infront of a vertically mounted radiator? This would probably account for the smaller rise in ambient room temp during heavy loads (warmer loop/rad temps).
> 
> Great idea to apply a temp sensor correction. I'll look into it!


Yes. And it's not really in front of it. The sensor sites in the vent of the front panel of the case. The air is pulled throught the vents first, then goes behind the doos and then into the rad. If I turn off my fans completely, my heatsensor is reporting slighly warmer values. But I just keep running my intake fans at 400rpm while being idle to counter this issue. It's dead silent at 400rpm. 
And when I run the system passive, it also works, but then I see 2-3°C higher water temps for 5 minutes until the fans kick in. Not a big issue either. 

Having my computer controlled by water temps doesn't work very good for me. A 3°C change in ambient is the difference between normal fan noise and very loud fan noise. I bet this is less of an issue with thick radiators, but my slim radiators only perform 3°C better at high fan speeds instead of normal speeds.


----------



## alanthecelt

I mentioned a little while ago that my Fahbwerk (sp) was not responding to Aquaero control, although visible, and it was recommended i firmware update it first
Finally got round to tackllng this, so i moved the USB lead from the Aquaero to the Fahbwerk and did a few other jobs, (coolant change, replaced my none working flowmeter) and put hte PC back
Now Aquasuite sees nothing.. should i have disconnected the aquabus between the Fahbwerk and Aquaero to make it visible via usb?


----------



## d0mmie

Question about QUADRO fan controller:

Can this be used to monitor CPU temperatures reported from the motherboard (with the USB connection), or do I have to use a sensor?


----------



## zeroibis

d0mmie said:


> Question about QUADRO fan controller:
> 
> Can this be used to monitor CPU temperatures reported from the motherboard (with the USB connection), or do I have to use a sensor?


My understanding is that the QUADRO has support for up to 8 software temp sensors. These 8 sensors can be provided data from the AQ service or from a program like HWmonitor.


----------



## iCrap

My aquasuite has stopped working... It won't open at all. I updated it to 2018-7 hoping that would fix it but still won't open. Are there any required packages for it that need to be updated? .net?, C++ etc


----------



## Shoggy

alanthecelt said:


> should i have disconnected the aquabus between the Fahbwerk and Aquaero to make it visible via usb?


This is not necessary. You can have both connected. Does Windows show a connected device? An easy way to check this is the freeware tool USBDeview. Our devices use the Vendor ID code 0c70.

If you can not even see the device there must be something wrong with the USB connection or the device itself.



d0mmie said:


> Can this be used to monitor CPU temperatures reported from the motherboard (with the USB connection), or do I have to use a sensor?


You can assign four software temperature sensor to use them to control the outputs.

If you only want to monitor some values in an overview page for example, then there is no limit. This is a feature of the aquasuite software and does not depend on the device that you use.



iCrap said:


> My aquasuite has stopped working... It won't open at all. I updated it to 2018-7 hoping that would fix it but still won't open. Are there any required packages for it that need to be updated? .net?, C++ etc


You can check the Windows event manager for further details about the crash. Usually every crash generates two reports: a small and large one. We would be interested in the larger one. Attached you will find an example so you know what you are looking for.


----------



## alanthecelt

Shoggy said:


> This is not necessary. You can have both connected. Does Windows show a connected device? An easy way to check this is the freeware tool USBDeview. Our devices use the Vendor ID code 0c70.
> 
> If you can not even see the device there must be something wrong with the USB connection or the device itself.


thanks
well it was apparently visible to the aquaero before i stole the aquaero's usb to plug it into the fahbwerk
i'll run the usb tool tonight to see if its visible, thanks


----------



## iCrap

Shoggy said:


> This is not necessary. You can have both connected. Does Windows show a connected device? An easy way to check this is the freeware tool USBDeview. Our devices use the Vendor ID code 0c70.
> 
> If you can not even see the device there must be something wrong with the USB connection or the device itself.
> 
> 
> You can assign four software temperature sensor to use them to control the outputs.
> 
> If you only want to monitor some values in an overview page for example, then there is no limit. This is a feature of the aquasuite software and does not depend on the device that you use.
> 
> 
> You can check the Windows event manager for further details about the crash. Usually every crash generates two reports: a small and large one. We would be interested in the larger one. Attached you will find an example so you know what you are looking for.





ok, i found these three


----------



## jura11

iCrap said:


> ok, i found these three


Are you running Asus AI Suite if yes then this can cause this, remember older 2016 have issues with AI Suite, can't comment on 2017 or 2018 version, didn't tried install AI Suite with newer Aquasuite 

Hope this helps 

Thanks, Jura


----------



## iCrap

Nope no AI suite. its an MSI mobo. also it was working fine only like a month ago.... i didn't really change or install anything recently either.


----------



## Shoggy

First idea: try to rename the aquasuite.xml in the folder C:\ProgramData\aquasuite-data\ so it can not be used anymore by the aquasuite and starts with default values for the general settings.


----------



## iCrap

Shoggy said:


> First idea: try to rename the aquasuite.xml in the folder C:\ProgramData\aquasuite-data\ so it can not be used anymore by the aquasuite and starts with default values for the general settings.





ok that worked! thank you. Any ideas what would have caused that to break?


----------



## Shoggy

iCrap said:


> ok that worked! thank you. Any ideas what would have caused that to break?


If you send me the old XML file I might be able to answer this. The file contains general configuration data like window size and position, which page should be loaded at start etc. It seems that at least one of these values must be invalid.


----------



## some_sailor

*3 DDC pumps*

How do I connect 3 DDC pumps to a single aquaero 5 or aquaero 6 controller?


----------



## GTXJackBauer

some_sailor said:


> How do I connect 3 DDC pumps to a single aquaero 5 or aquaero 6 controller?


Well that all depends if they are in series or you want to connect them each with individual controls or all together and whether they are PWM or power controlled, it can be done either way. It just needs to be configured and set properly via software and hardware.

If you haven't yet, I'd recommend the AQ6.


----------



## some_sailor

Thank you for the response and I apologize for the lack of information. I'm building my first computer and I'm having a hard time understanding how to control my pumps and fans. I'm also having a hard time articulating in words the setup of my computer. It's going to be a complete over-the-top, completely overkill computer used for playing AAA games at 4k ultra settings. I will be using two 2080 TI's with NVLink. It will have 3 custom water loops. One loop for the CPU/motherboard and an individual loop for each GPU. 

I have already purchased non-PWM fans. I can buy a completely new set of PWM fans if needed, but would prefer to use the ones I already bought if possible. I have not yet bought the pumps.

The fans are:
24x Corsair Air Series™ SP120 Quiet Edition 120mm
12x Corsair Air Series™ AF120 Quiet Edition 120mm
1x Corsair Air Series™ AF140 Quiet Edition 140mm 

I'm using a Thermaltake Core W100 case. The case will have a couple of intake fans and an exhaust fan and I would like these fans to be controlled based upon the temp inside the case.

I'm going to be putting that main case on top of 4 Thermaltake Core P100 pedestals.

The first pedestal will house the power supply and 3 DDC pumps. This case will have 4 intake and 4 exhaust fans to cool these components and to complete a symmetrical look throughout the build. I would like to set these fans to around 40-50% RPM (something relatively quiet) and leave them there.

I would like the 3 pumps to be independently controlled, but I figure at a minimum, the CPU loop should be independent of the GPU loops, and the GPU loop pumps could be controlled together. I would like them to be controlled based upon the coolant temp in their respective loops.

The next 3 pedestals are essentially identical and will house the radiators for each of the 3 loops.

Each one will have two 480mm radiators, one on the intake side and on the exhaust side. The front radiator will have 4 intake fans in push config, and the back radiator will have 4 fans in pull config.

I imagine the fans on the radiators will mostly be ran at a set speed, probably something around 40% for quiet operation. I would like an easy ability to shut off all 3 loops intake fans.

So... I'm having a hard time wrapping my head around how to control all of these components and the hardware necessary to do it.


----------



## GTXJackBauer

some_sailor said:


> Thank you for the response and I apologize for the lack of information. I'm building my first computer and I'm having a hard time understanding how to control my pumps and fans. I'm also having a hard time articulating in words the setup of my computer. It's going to be a complete over-the-top, completely overkill computer used for playing AAA games at 4k ultra settings. I will be using two 2080 TI's with NVLink. It will have 3 custom water loops. One loop for the CPU/motherboard and an individual loop for each GPU.
> 
> I have already purchased non-PWM fans. I can buy a completely new set of PWM fans if needed, but would prefer to use the ones I already bought if possible. I have not yet bought the pumps.
> 
> The fans are:
> 24x Corsair Air Series™ SP120 Quiet Edition 120mm
> 12x Corsair Air Series™ AF120 Quiet Edition 120mm
> 1x Corsair Air Series™ AF140 Quiet Edition 140mm
> 
> I'm using a Thermaltake Core W100 case. The case will have a couple of intake fans and an exhaust fan and I would like these fans to be controlled based upon the temp inside the case.
> 
> I'm going to be putting that main case on top of 4 Thermaltake Core P100 pedestals.
> 
> The first pedestal will house the power supply and 3 DDC pumps. This case will have 4 intake and 4 exhaust fans to cool these components and to complete a symmetrical look throughout the build. I would like to set these fans to around 40-50% RPM (something relatively quiet) and leave them there.
> 
> I would like the 3 pumps to be independently controlled, but I figure at a minimum, the CPU loop should be independent of the GPU loops, and the GPU loop pumps could be controlled together. I would like them to be controlled based upon the coolant temp in their respective loops.
> 
> The next 3 pedestals are essentially identical and will house the radiators for each of the 3 loops.
> 
> Each one will have two 480mm radiators, one on the intake side and on the exhaust side. The front radiator will have 4 intake fans in push config, and the back radiator will have 4 fans in pull config.
> 
> I imagine the fans on the radiators will mostly be ran at a set speed, probably something around 40% for quiet operation. I would like an easy ability to shut off all 3 loops intake fans.
> 
> So... I'm having a hard time wrapping my head around how to control all of these components and the hardware necessary to do it.


No need to have more than one loop to be honest. It's just a waste of funds for maybe a few degree difference at best. What you want to focus on is having enough rad, great rad fans and great air and water flow. The cooler the intake air, the better while having everything else I've stated dialed in.

Best way to control your fans are via fan curve through Aquasuite based on water temps. This will give you a gradual increase in fan speed than a rampant increase which can be a nuisance via audibles. 

The pump(s) are best configured in serial if you go multi pump for redundancy and increase flow at lower settings and fixed at a 1.0-1.5 GPM. If it's even less say 0.8 GPM I've tested to be fine.

By the looks of your case, a 320mm rad in front and 480mm up top will be more than enough heat surface for your setup with overclocking headroom. 

For air flow, I usually recommend front, top and bottom as intake and rear as exhaust because most of those locations are filtered. If the top is not filtered, you can use that as exhaust as well but regardless, it should give you a nice positive pressure setup letting most of it vent out the unfiltered rear.

What I explained to you was a simple single loop more than enough to cool your components. If you want to still go with what you have planned while I think will create a cluster *bleeping* mess imo as you'll have extra tubing for their own loops everywhere and unnecessary wires up the wazoo but hey, its your build as you can do as you may. After several years of trial and error, I would do it differently but again, to each their own and wish you luck and keep us posted.

To answer a few of your questions if I haven't and I apologize, yes you can connect each pump to their own channels (30 watt each channel) but will only be left with 1 channel left since there are only 4 in total. You could use a fan splitter but with that many voltage fans, it would be impossible as you'll need an additional controller like a slaved AQ6. If you would have went PWM with your setup, most PWM devices can get their power straight from the PSU while only having to supply the PWM signal for your devices.


----------



## some_sailor

Thank you for the feedback. I've watched a lot of youtube videos and done some decent research and I know my rig is complete overkill, and I like it that way  Unfortunately, I didn't really think through the fan and pump control though. Now I'm trying to figure out how to make that work.

I'm looking at using either the ASUS ROG Maximus XI Formula motherboard, ASrock Taichi Z390, or Gigabyte AORUS Master. All motherboards appear to have plenty of USB 2.0 connections for the aquaero controllers.

If I use 3x aquaero 6 xt's, one per loop, and connect each one to the motherboard, will the aquasuite software recognize all of the controllers and connected fans/pumps, or will the controllers conflict with each other?

I'm also wondering if it's possible to use a single controller with maybe an aquabus X4 and /or poweradjust 3 USB in some combination to accomplish what I'm trying to build.


----------



## poisson21

You don't have to use an aquaero for each loop, only one is necessary. You can differentiate each loop with the use of a quadro per loop, and then control each quadro from the aquaero, using aquabus conection with a splitty. Or you can use 3 channel on the aquaero for the pump and connect only the fans on the quadro, like that with each quadro you add 4 25W channel (you can use a splitty 9 on each of these channel to group your fan)


----------



## GTXJackBauer

poisson21 said:


> You don't have to use an aquaero for each loop, only one is necessary. You can differentiate each loop with the use of a quadro per loop, and then control each quadro from the aquaero, using aquabus conection with a splitty. Or you can use 3 channel on the aquaero for the pump and connect only the fans on the quadro, like that with each quadro you add 4 25W channel (you can use a splitty 9 on each of these channel to group your fan)


I know this might sound silly but I'm not sure if the QAUDRO is set to control both voltage and PWM as they only talk about PWM but it's always best to ask Aquacomputer to see if it does all of the above. Yes, ideally a QUADRO would be best served or a Poweradjust. I also believe the AQ can only handle 2 QUADROs per controller iirc. 

Sailor, have a look here https://forum.aquacomputer.de/weitere-foren/english-forum/108444-new-quadro-and-rgbpx-splitty4/ as they recently came out with some new gear that can be useful for your complex system and ask away.


----------



## broodro0ster

poisson21 said:


> You don't have to use an aquaero for each loop, only one is necessary. You can differentiate each loop with the use of a quadro per loop, and then control each quadro from the aquaero, using aquabus conection with a splitty. Or you can use 3 channel on the aquaero for the pump and connect only the fans on the quadro, like that with each quadro you add 4 25W channel (you can use a splitty 9 on each of these channel to group your fan)


Yes, this would be my recommendation as well.

And 2 radiators in 1 pedestal is kinda a waste of money. The air coming out of decent radiators is saturated for 75-90%. This means adding an extra radiator as exhaust will only lower your water temps by 0,9-1,8°C if you would have a 10°C delta with a single radiator.
But if you just want to go crazy, then it's ok I guess.


----------



## Aenra

GTXJackBauer said:


> have a look here


Thanks for posting that really, made me realise i actually don't have it as clear.. cut as i thought, lol..
The new splitty4 apparently uses a 'regular' Aquabus connection cable when plugged in as a fan splitter to a Quadro. So my 'latest' question (yes.. you may laugh..) is, can an Aquabus cable handle 60Watts? That's the max of the Splitty4, 5A total, ie 60W.
'Cause otherwise, we'd be looking at yet another splitter cable, this time to provide the current to the SP4, and before it connects to the Quadro... :headscrat

* this is the cable, mentioned in the SP4 manual as 'fan cable': https://shop.aquacomputer.de/product_info.php?products_id=2846

(sometimes i hate water cooling, lol)


----------



## poisson21

The aquabus cable is a regular 4 pin cable , you can even use it as a fan cable without any problem.
For the maximum quadro manageable directly by an aquaero, it's actually 2, but you can only use the usb connection and use any number you want and still be able to control them from aquasuite.
And while it is said that they are pwm compatible it does not state anywhere that you can't use 3 pin fan with power control only and it would be strange that it is an exclusive pwm controler.


----------



## Aenra

poisson21 said:


> The aquabus cable is a regular 4 pin cable


..yes and no.. different functions according to the actual sheet, but yeah, 4 pins, 4 cables indeed, sure.
Point is if it's happy having 5A running through it, to which my guess is an emphatic 'NO', but i'd rather ask than assume. Which.. is why i asked above


----------



## poisson21

it's a regular 4 pin cable with no cross between the wire, the only thing that is important is the section of the wire and if they can sustain such power, nothing else, and while it is not mentioned it is certainly 22 awg and they have an ampacity of 5A and a fuse point of 41A (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/American_wire_gauge) so no problem in handling 60W.


----------



## Ashcroft

broodro0ster said:


> Yes, this would be my recommendation as well.
> 
> And 2 radiators in 1 pedestal is kinda a waste of money. The air coming out of decent radiators is saturated for 75-90%. This means adding an extra radiator as exhaust will only lower your water temps by 0,9-1,8°C if you would have a 10°C delta with a single radiator.
> But if you just want to go crazy, then it's ok I guess.


Actually even less than that. Remember that if you have a 10C coolant to air delta that doesn't mean the rad is dropping the coolant temp by 10C. If the rad is cooling 500W at a normalish flow rate then you would expect around 2C difference between coolant going into rad and coming out. 

So if the second rad, and there is only two in the whole system, is adding 25% cooling (which would be generous I reckon) then you get another 25% of 2C. Or about 0.5C cooler coolant and cooler blocks.

In terms of direct delta impact if one rad gives you 10C then another identical one will halve the delta to 5C. So if 100% more gives you 5C then 25% more cooling will give you perhaps 1C lower delta to 9C or 8.75C.
So yeah your numbers are about right, its just important to remember you don't get 25% of the 10C but 25% of the 5C. (Assuming only 75% saturation from the first rad which is a bit conservative.


----------



## Aenra

poisson21 said:


> it's a regular 4 pin cable with no cross between the wire, the only thing that is important is the section of the wire and if they can sustain such power, nothing else, and while it is not mentioned it is certainly 22 awg and they have an ampacity of 5A and a fuse point of 41A (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/American_wire_gauge) so no problem in handling 60W.


Fair enough sir, will take your word for it then


----------



## zeroibis

Ashcroft said:


> Actually even less than that. Remember that if you have a 10C coolant to air delta that doesn't mean the rad is dropping the coolant temp by 10C. If the rad is cooling 500W at a normalish flow rate then you would expect around 2C difference between coolant going into rad and coming out.
> 
> So if the second rad, and there is only two in the whole system, is adding 25% cooling (which would be generous I reckon) then you get another 25% of 2C. Or about 0.5C cooler coolant and cooler blocks.
> 
> In terms of direct delta impact if one rad gives you 10C then another identical one will halve the delta to 5C. So if 100% more gives you 5C then 25% more cooling will give you perhaps 1C lower delta to 9C or 8.75C.
> So yeah your numbers are about right, its just important to remember you don't get 25% of the 10C but 25% of the 5C. (Assuming only 75% saturation from the first rad which is a bit conservative.


Ideally, they would add a second rad as an intake instead.


----------



## broodro0ster

zeroibis said:


> Ideally, they would add a second rad as an intake instead.


Indeed. I've done my own testing in my define R6 which has a 360 GTS in the top and a 360 GTS in the front.

Here are the results:
With a single radiator in the front as intake, my delta was about 18°C
When I ran front intake/top exhaust, my water delta was 14°C with the fans at 1050rpm while gaming.
When I switched the top rad to intake (so dual intake rads), my delta dropped to 9°C at the same fan speeds.

The R6 has a top filter as well and my case stays clean for a very long time with all this positive pressure.
And while front intake/top exhaust gives more airflow over the VRM's etc, the water is hotter so hotter air passes over these components. While dual intake I have less airflow through the case, but because the water temps are lower, my VRM's temps are the same.


----------



## zeroibis

broodro0ster said:


> Indeed. I've done my own testing in my define R6 which has a 360 GTS in the top and a 360 GTS in the front.
> 
> Here are the results:
> With a single radiator in the front as intake, my delta was about 18°C
> When I ran front intake/top exhaust, my water delta was 14°C with the fans at 1050rpm while gaming.
> When I switched the top rad to intake (so dual intake rads), my delta dropped to 9°C at the same fan speeds.
> 
> The R6 has a top filter as well and my case stays clean for a very long time with all this positive pressure.
> And while front intake/top exhaust gives more airflow over the VRM's etc, the water is hotter so hotter air passes over these components. While dual intake I have less airflow through the case, but because the water temps are lower, my VRM's temps are the same.


Interesting about your case air results. You would assume that pushing more air into the case would still get you more positive results for that because the total "fresh" air is much greater in the system. In theory the total amount of CFM entering and exiting the case should be higher when you are using both directions as an intake.

This actually makes me wonder if for my darkness build if placing top mounted fans in that case would effect my drive temps. I wonder what the results of using that space as an intake would be on the HDDs. Generally you are better off adding fresh air than trying to remove hot air.


----------



## war4peace

broodro0ster said:


> Indeed. I've done my own testing in my define R6 which has a 360 GTS in the top and a 360 GTS in the front.
> 
> Here are the results:
> With a single radiator in the front as intake, my delta was about 18°C
> When I ran front intake/top exhaust, my water delta was 14°C with the fans at 1050rpm while gaming.
> When I switched the top rad to intake (so dual intake rads), my delta dropped to 9°C at the same fan speeds.


Same here, in the past I used exhaust at the top and the performance was bad. Then I switched to top intake and it was much better.


----------



## DirtyBear

Can I join ? I am rebuilding my SMA8 with Aqua system


----------



## Shoggy

GTXJackBauer said:


> I know this might sound silly but I'm not sure if the QAUDRO is set to control both voltage and PWM as they only talk about PWM but it's always best to ask Aquacomputer to see if it does all of the above. Yes, ideally a QUADRO would be best served or a Poweradjust. I also believe the AQ can only handle 2 QUADROs per controller iirc.


QUADRO is PWM only and offers no voltage control. Two QUADROs can be connected to the aquaero. This limit is caused by the fact the the aquaero can not control more than 12 fan channels in total.


----------



## Aenra

Shoggy said:


> This limit is caused by the fact the the aquaero can not control more than 12 fan channels in total


Theoretically speaking, nothing to be taken for granted just because you replied and so on.. is this something we can expect to change in the future? Say with an AQ7? Put differently, design/goals-wise, is this something you'd look at if the conditions for it were met (am assuming it's due to the actual ASIC/FPGA's limitations)?

* just curious really; with an AQ clock expansion (2 Aquabus ports) and now the Quadros, am actually perfectly happy


----------



## iamjanco

Shoggy said:


> QUADRO is PWM only and offers no voltage control. Two QUADROs can be connected to the aquaero. This limit is caused by the fact the the aquaero can not control more than 12 fan channels in total.


Let's say you connected four pwm fans to a Splitty9 and in-turn called it one channel, which you connected to a Quadro. Any reason why it wouldn't work as long as you didn't exceed the max power limits of either (Splitty9 or Quadro)?


----------



## zeroibis

iamjanco said:


> Let's say you connected four pwm fans to a Splitty9 and in-turn called it one channel, which you connected to a Quadro. Any reason why it wouldn't work as long as you didn't exceed the max power limits of either (Splitty9 or Quadro)?


Correct, this will work fine.


----------



## iamjanco

zeroibis said:


> Correct, this will work fine.


TY :thumb:


----------



## YNONO

zeroibis said:


> Correct, this will work fine.


Just remember the only fan that will report RPM is one circled in white
reading RPM in the picture.


----------



## iamjanco

YNONO said:


> Just remember the only fan that will report RPM is one circled in white
> reading RPM in the picture.


Yup, realize that, but thanks anyway.


----------



## d0mmie

Can anyone point me to a location for the Aquasuite 2018 manual? I can't seem to find this anywhere... 

I'm specifically looking to know what "Use Start Boost" and "Hold Minimum Power" actually does.


----------



## broodro0ster

d0mmie said:


> Can anyone point me to a location for the Aquasuite 2018 manual? I can't seem to find this anywhere...
> 
> I'm specifically looking to know what "Use Start Boost" and "Hold Minimum Power" actually does.


Hold minimum power means that the fan keeps running at the set minimum speed/voltage. If you turn it off, the fan will shut down completely when temps are cool enough. 
Use start boost is only for voltage controlled fans. Let's say your fan keeps running at 4V once started, but it requires 7V to begin spinning from a complete shutdown. Then you can use a start boost of 7V and then the fan will start up on 7V for a few seconds and then it goes to 4V for ultra quiet operation.


----------



## YNONO

*Question about aquqsuite 2018-7*

I was wondering if somebody could help me with a small problem I am having with aquasuite 2018-7.
Every once in a while the names of the sensors that I write in, for the Quadro will revert back to the default settings.
You know like sensor 1 2 3 etc. But The data source stays the same for where I set it.
Any clue on what I’m doing wrong?

The Quadro is the only aquasuite device I have.


----------



## Aenra

YNONO said:


> Any clue


Until someone more knowledgeable can chip in, you could in the meantime start with something a bit more basic 
Find the .xml, make sure the names are as you want them to be assigned, then make it read-only? I'd try that myself, may well be pointless though.
(second thing i'd try is a full reinstall; a few days ago i saw mention of a similar issue that was sorted by reinstalling; you gotta love software people huh, theirs is a discipline of science. Exit the vehicle and re-enter it, who knows, it might sort itself out! ^^)

If neither helps, apologies for wasting your time


----------



## YNONO

Aenra said:


> Until someone more knowledgeable can chip in, you could in the meantime start with something a bit more basic
> Find the .xml, make sure the names are as you want them to be assigned, then make it read-only? I'd try that myself, may well be pointless though.
> (second thing i'd try is a full reinstall; a few days ago i saw mention of a similar issue that was sorted by reinstalling; you gotta love software people huh, theirs is a discipline of science. Exit the vehicle and re-enter it, who knows, it might sort itself out! ^^)
> 
> If neither helps, apologies for wasting your time


Definitely not a waste of my time and Thank You for your Help.
I found the .xml and set it to read only. Will see if that helps. If it does it again then I'll do the uninstall reinstall.

Thanks


----------



## Aenra

YNONO said:


> Thanks


No worries 

By the way, regardless of outcome, you could email the xml to AQ and help them find out what's causing this.


----------



## Shoggy

@YNONO this will not help because all settings and sensor names are stored in the device.This sounds more like an issue with the USB connection.


----------



## GAN77

*Shoggy*

When is the announcement planned kryographics for NVIDIA RTX2080TI?


----------



## Shoggy

Unfortunately no idea at all.... We currently get bombed with so much custom orders that we have no time available for things like the RTX 2080 Ti block. It is the same reason why the TR4 blocks are still not available. It is ready since months but we do not have any free manufacturing capacity to make it.

Whatever I would tell you as date would be pure speculation. So, do not expect a RTX 2080 Ti block anytime soon - that is the best answer that I can give at the moment.


----------



## YNONO

Shoggy said:


> @YNONO this will not help because all settings and sensor names are stored in the device.This sounds more like an issue with the USB connection.


Thanks Shoggy, The other day I did knock off one of the temp sensors and re-seated temp sensors and the USB connection. That was probably it.
By the way I have to say I love the Quadro and Aqua-suite. So much better than what I was using before.


----------



## H2OMachine

Can I be added to the list, been doing tons of research and the aquaero 6pro is what I picked up for my massive 900 thermaltake build with new D5 next pumps.


----------



## Barefooter

H2OMachine said:


> Can I be added to the list, been doing tons of research and the aquaero 6pro is what I picked up for my massive 900 thermaltake build with new D5 next pumps.


I have not seen @IT Diva on here in quite some time now. She would have to add you.

Welcome to OCN!


----------



## zeroibis

Might as well add me while they are at it I have two 6 LTs. (You can see each of them in my builds from my sig)


----------



## SeaLandSkyPhoto

Is there a way to control the text color based on sensor value in the XAML? I'm displaying per core values in a table (temp, speed, etc.). So I'd like to be able to switch the text from black to red if the temp for a core exceeds a specific value. So basically modify

<TextBlock 
Grid.Column="1"
Margin="5,0,10,0"
Foreground="Black" FontSize="18" FontFamily="Segoe UI"
HorizontalAlignment="Right" VerticalAlignment="Center">
<TextBlock.Text>
<MultiBinding Converter="{StaticResource UnitConverter}" ConverterParameter="1">
<Binding ElementName="this" Path="DataContext.Data"/>
<Binding ElementName="this" Path="DataContext.Data.v"/>
</MultiBinding>
</TextBlock

to do a test on the value of DataContext.Data and set the Foreground color based on the result. Sort of "if DataContext.Data > 60 then foreground = Red else foreground = Black".


----------



## Shoggy

There is an example in the aquasuite that you could use as template.

Add a new user defined control and switch to the display tab in the new window. From the upper left drop-down menu you select data binding + conditions. Press load preset to get the code example. The example changes the color of a rectangle but you should be able to adapt it for a text string. To assign a sensor data source, right click the element (on the overview page) and change its data source.


----------



## SeaLandSkyPhoto

Thanx. That did the trick.


----------



## war4peace

My Flow sensor high flow G1/4 for aquaero, aquastream XT ultra and poweradjust started clicking recently, after enhancing my loop.
It is physically located immediately before the pumps, in normal position (horizontally, face up). It makes some sort of a clicking/crunching noise, much like a HDD infrequently seeking data.
I want to replace it with something else and use it in one of my bench builds, but what should I get instead? How is the Flow sensor mps flow 400, G1/4?


----------



## Aenra

war4peace said:


> after enhancing my loop ... It makes some sort of a clicking/crunching noise


Might be you nailed it yourself; did said 'enhancing' entail a coolant change? If so, it could be just air trapped inside.
Otherwise ignore this


----------



## war4peace

No, there is no air trapped inside, and yes I have bled the system again and tested the sensor externally in various positions. I have spare pumps and reservoirs so I improvised a loop. Interestingly, in vertical positions there is no clicking noise. Previously I had it mounted vertically in the case. So I guess it would have clicked before


----------



## jsutter71

war4peace said:


> My Flow sensor high flow G1/4 for aquaero, aquastream XT ultra and poweradjust started clicking recently, after enhancing my loop.
> It is physically located immediately before the pumps, in normal position (horizontally, face up). It makes some sort of a clicking/crunching noise, much like a HDD infrequently seeking data.
> I want to replace it with something else and use it in one of my bench builds, but what should I get instead? How is the Flow sensor mps flow 400, G1/4?


I had the flow 400 and then after about a year it died for no apparent reason. After that I chose the High flow USB and haven't had any issues. I haven't had any noise issues with mine but it all depends on where it's placed in your loop and your flow rate. Mine is situated between 2 480mm Rads in push/pull configuration so whatever noise it does make isn't as loud as the fans which are running about 750 rpm.


----------



## war4peace

That's the thing, my cooling is external and there are no fans in the case except the PSU fans which don't spin up unless there's heavy load, in theory at least. In practice I have only seen them spin while mining for long periods of time, last year.
The 230mm fans on the radiator spin at 375 RPM and they are virtually inaudible, the only other thing that makes a bit of noise is the external HDD - but it only spins up when used, which is not very often.
The flow rate is pretty high, 5.5l/min which is 330l/h, maybe that's why. Previously it was about 3.25 l/min, before optimizing my loop a bit.


----------



## GTXJackBauer

If the flow rate is 1.5-2.0+ GPM, this particular flow meter tends to make noise. If you lower the flow, the noise should go away plus you only need to be within 0.8-1.5 GPM to flow efficiently.


----------



## jsutter71

Question pertaining to information pages. I have 18 categories displayed permanently and have noticed system lagging as a result. I'm running dual TXP's SLI, 6950x CPU and 64GB CL 14 memory. When I turn of the info pages the lagging goes away. I increased the priority value to above normal in task manager with slight improvement Any other thoughts on how to improve this? I'm using aquasuite 2018-8.


----------



## war4peace

GTXJackBauer said:


> If the flow rate is 1.5-2.0+ GPM, this particular flow meter tends to make noise. If you lower the flow, the noise should go away plus you only need to be within 0.8-1.5 GPM to flow efficiently.


I'd rather have that clicking noise than reduce flow just to eliminate the clicking noise. The reason for the high flow is that both my GPUs and monoblock are in parallel, so the flow divides amongst the three (well, four if you consider the monoblock further dividing the flow in two) devices.


----------



## H2OMachine

I'm only about 90 pages in reading still to understand the aquearo and all it can do. I do have some questions for shoggy I have 2 brand new D5 next pumps and I'm going to run separate loops GPU and CPU getting their own 480 rads each loaded with 8 fans both 16 total Corsair mag Lev fans . I have two splitty 9 fan hubs. 

Question I guess I have is do the D5 NEXT plug into one each fan header and then the other 3/4 header reserved for the splitty hubs. Will I still get temp monitoring that comes with the D5 next or do they need to go to a different plug. I'd like to run the loops separate from one another and use a curve as temperatures rise from gaming so I can keep it quite when not needed as well. I've also heard talk about you have to label the D5 pumps so the aquearo can differentiate from the two pumps how is that done? Can most bios now turn off CPU fan headers so I don't have to plug something in? Sorry for all the questions but new to aquearo but not the water world.


----------



## Agenesis

Where can I find dimensions of the aquaero filter?


----------



## Shoggy

H2OMachine said:


> Question I guess I have is do the D5 NEXT plug into one each fan header and then the other 3/4 header reserved for the splitty hubs. Will I still get temp monitoring that comes with the D5 next or do they need to go to a different plug. I'd like to run the loops separate from one another and use a curve as temperatures rise from gaming so I can keep it quite when not needed as well. I've also heard talk about you have to label the D5 pumps so the aquearo can differentiate from the two pumps how is that done? Can most bios now turn off CPU fan headers so I don't have to plug something in? Sorry for all the questions but new to aquearo but not the water world.


The pump can not be connected to the fan ports of the aquaero. If you want to connect them with the aquaero, you will have to use the aquabus interface. You will need this cable two times and this y-adapter.

The internal temperature will be available through the aquabus.

When running two pumps via aquabus you have to assign different aquabus ID numbers. This is done in the system tab (aquasuite) of the pump while it is connected via USB.

Pretty much every BIOS allows to ignore the missing rpm for the CPU fan.



Agenesis said:


> Where can I find dimensions of the aquaero filter?


aquaero filter? :eh-smiley


----------



## zeroibis

war4peace said:


> I'd rather have that clicking noise than reduce flow just to eliminate the clicking noise. The reason for the high flow is that both my GPUs and monoblock are in parallel, so the flow divides amongst the three (well, four if you consider the monoblock further dividing the flow in two) devices.



You could place the sensor in the parallel part of the loop to monitor the flow rate there which will be slower.


----------



## war4peace

zeroibis said:


> You could place the sensor in the parallel part of the loop to monitor the flow rate there which will be slower.


Not much room there, also I would like to see the total flow, not partial. Anyway it's just my sound OCD kicking in, I will buy an MPS and see how that works, that will happen when I add a second loop and then I would likely need both sensors anyway.


----------



## Halk

Before I go ahead and buy this I want to check that I've not misunderstood. I'd only be buying a Quadro and 2 4xRGB splitty boards. I'd be using an EK D5 and 6 Corsair ML140. There's a rad with 3 fans and a rad with 2 fans.

Input 1 would be the D5
Input 2 would be 3 of the fans through a splitty. Only one of the fans would be reporting it's RPM etc and the other 2 would just get the same PWM signal
Input 3 would be 2 of the fans through a splitty. Only one of the etc...
Input 4 would be the 6th fan.

For the RGB I would plug all 6 fans into the two splittys. It doesn't matter what goes where. I would then plug 1 splitty into the other splitty and plug that splitty into the RGB header on the Quadro.


----------



## Shoggy

Almost correct but the LED setup will not work. The ML140 fans have just white LEDs that can not be controlled through the RGBpx port. Even if we assume you meant the LL140 fans with addressable LEDs it would not work this way because you can not daisy-chain the Splitty4 boards for RGBpx. You could only control the LEDs of four fans. And if we would ignore this too it still would not work because you can only access 64 LEDs while six fans of this type will have a total of 96 LEDs.


----------



## GTXJackBauer

Shoggy said:


> Almost correct but the LED setup will not work. The ML140 fans have just white LEDs that can not be controlled through the RGBpx port. Even if we assume you meant the LL140 fans with addressable LEDs it would not work this way because you can not daisy-chain the Splitty4 boards for RGBpx. You could only control the LEDs of four fans. And if we would ignore this too it still would not work because you can only access 64 LEDs while six fans of this type will have a total of 96 LEDs.


I wish you guys made a RGB fan controller hub to control either 6 or 12 total fans per hub and possibly chain them if needed down the road instead of buying a bunch of QUADROs to control 4 RGB fans each. It gets too expensive and too cluttery the way it is now.


----------



## H2OMachine

Your the best shoggy! One last clarification. When you say USB is that the motherboard USB or the aquearo one that the D5 needs to be in to change the ID. Thanks for the links for the cables when all hooked up where will the Y splitter attach on the aquearo?


----------



## jsutter71

*Posting again because I never received any responses. *

Question pertaining to information pages. I have 18 categories displayed permanently and have noticed system lagging as a result. I'm running dual TXP's SLI, 6950x CPU and 64GB CL 14 memory. When I turn of the info pages the lagging goes away. I increased the priority value to above normal in task manager with slight improvement Any other thoughts on how to improve this? I'm using aquasuite 2018-8.


----------



## Spin Cykle

Few questions for everyone... 

Currently I have an AQ6LT controling a D5 via voltage and 8 (3-pin) fans. I'm upgrading my Aquaro system to include Corsair LL120 fans and I'd like to use RGBpx. 

To run 8 Corsair LL120's I'd need 2 Quadro's and 2 Splitty 4's correct? And I can just run the Quadro from the Aquabus High/Low ports on my AQ6? 

Sorry for my confusion. I'm having a hard time envisioning how to wire everything up. What's the best way do go about this?

Thanks in advance for all the help!


----------



## Shoggy

H2OMachine said:


> Your the best shoggy! One last clarification. When you say USB is that the motherboard USB or the aquearo one that the D5 needs to be in to change the ID. Thanks for the links for the cables when all hooked up where will the Y splitter attach on the aquearo?


USB can be only connected to the mainboard. You can not connect device to each other via USB, this can be only done via aquabus.
I am not sure which splitter you mean. If you want to connect more than one aquabus enabled device, than you will connect a spitter or y-cable to the aquabus (high) port.



jsutter71 said:


> Question pertaining to information pages. I have 18 categories displayed permanently and have noticed system lagging as a result. I'm running dual TXP's SLI, 6950x CPU and 64GB CL 14 memory. When I turn of the info pages the lagging goes away. I increased the priority value to above normal in task manager with slight improvement Any other thoughts on how to improve this? I'm using aquasuite 2018-8.


A screenshot might be helpful to get an idea of what your displayed data looks like. If you use a lot of chart controls with a large data history it is quite likely that it will lag because this is a lot of data that must be processed.



Spin Cykle said:


> Currently I have an AQ6LT controling a D5 via voltage and 8 (3-pin) fans. I'm upgrading my Aquaro system to include Corsair LL120 fans and I'd like to use RGBpx.
> 
> To run 8 Corsair LL120's I'd need 2 Quadro's and 2 Splitty 4's correct? And I can just run the Quadro from the Aquabus High/Low ports on my AQ6?
> 
> Sorry for my confusion. I'm having a hard time envisioning how to wire everything up. What's the best way do go about this?


Yes, you will need two QUADRO and two Splitty4. Both QUADROs must be connected to the aquabus highspeed port. The lowspeed port does not exist anymore not can it be used with any devices from the last years. To connect both controllers you can use an aquabus y-cable for example.


----------



## Halk

Shoggy said:


> Almost correct but the LED setup will not work. The ML140 fans have just white LEDs that can not be controlled through the RGBpx port. Even if we assume you meant the LL140 fans with addressable LEDs it would not work this way because you can not daisy-chain the Splitty4 boards for RGBpx. You could only control the LEDs of four fans. And if we would ignore this too it still would not work because you can only access 64 LEDs while six fans of this type will have a total of 96 LEDs.


Thanks for being so clear Shoggy. 

That means if I want to dump the Commander Pro then I would do so and replace it with the Corsair Lighting Node Pro. This would then allow me to use an AC Quadro and have fan control curves etc run by the Quadro and not by software like Corsair. 

Since I already have the commander pro I'll hang off for now and see how things go for now but thanks for your help.


----------



## GTXJackBauer

Halk said:


> Thanks for being so clear Shoggy.
> 
> That means if I want to dump the Commander Pro then I would do so and replace it with the Corsair Lighting Node Pro. This would then allow me to use an AC Quadro and have fan control curves etc run by the Quadro and not by software like Corsair.
> 
> Since I already have the commander pro I'll hang off for now and see how things go for now but thanks for your help.


I'am thinking of doing the same. Use the AQ for fan controls and Corsair for RGB fan controls because the cost and things you need to buy to make this work is just ridiculous to say the least.


----------



## Spin Cykle

Shoggy said:


> Yes, you will need two QUADRO and two Splitty4. Both QUADROs must be connected to the aquabus highspeed port. The lowspeed port does not exist anymore not can it be used with any devices from the last years. To connect both controllers you can use an aquabus y-cable for example.


Thank you! I'll just use USB connection instead of Aquabus. Are there any advantages to using Aqaubus instead of USB? And can I plug two USB cables into one USB 2.0 header on the motherboard?


----------



## GTXJackBauer

Spin Cykle said:


> Thank you! I'll just use USB connection instead of Aquabus. Are there any advantages to using Aqaubus instead of USB? And can I plug two USB cables into one USB 2.0 header on the motherboard?


The Aquabus is the communications between those aquabus devices and the Aquaero. So in essence, the Aquaero is the boss of everything via software when you're doing aquabus on all devices. 

When you use USB, it's basically standalone (works on its own without the need of Aquaero) via software and has its own tab as opposed to being all under the aquaero tab via aquabus. You can have both connected so you can switch between them. 

USB is needed when you're doing firmware updates per device for one and also, some features change between the two. Forgot which one's which but I mainly use Aquabus on all my devices. 

As for USB, you can add many USB connections via a USB hub like the HUBBY7. You might need to chain another one if you're going to add every device to USB. Just make sure the wiring is connected correctly. 

Also, if you decide to do both or just Aquabus, you can get a SPLITTY9 which is basically a Aquabus Hub that's also used as a PWM fan hub as well if ever needed to since the wiring is the same iirc.


----------



## deeph

I have Vision for about 2 months. It's really nice device.

Anyway, this maybe just an idea. How about added display for weather, is it possible?

deeph


----------



## broodro0ster

Who has the Aquacomputer high flow meter with USB and Aquabus? How do like it? I read some reviews about it that it can have a ticking sound, is it loud? I would be really annoyed if I could hear it well.
I can mount it vertically if that results in less noise.


----------



## Aenra

Any Linux users here that have a hubby7 up and running? 

(am still not familiar enough with unix/linux to know in advance, but can foresee either case.. trouble, or none whatsoever; so any impressions you have will be appreciated)


----------



## jvillaveces

broodro0ster said:


> Who has the Aquacomputer high flow meter with USB and Aquabus? How do like it? I read some reviews about it that it can have a ticking sound, is it loud? I would be really annoyed if I could hear it well.
> I can mount it vertically if that results in less noise.


i've been running the USB high flow with aquabus on my last three builds. I've had them both horizontal and vertical. I have never experienced the ticking sounds others have mentioned and I llove the functionality.


----------



## war4peace

broodro0ster said:


> Who has the Aquacomputer high flow meter with USB and Aquabus? How do like it? I read some reviews about it that it can have a ticking sound, is it loud? I would be really annoyed if I could hear it well.
> I can mount it vertically if that results in less noise.


I never had any ticking until recently when I optimized my loop and liquid flow reached about 5.5L/min, now it ticks. But that kind of flow speed is hard to achieve anyway, so I wouldn't worry. At 5.2 L/min it wasn't ticking.


----------



## broodro0ster

war4peace said:


> I never had any ticking until recently when I optimized my loop and liquid flow reached about 5.5L/min, now it ticks. But that kind of flow speed is hard to achieve anyway, so I wouldn't worry. At 5.2 L/min it wasn't ticking.


So when you lower the pump speed, it's not ticking anymore?
From my calculations based on water in/out temperature in my radiators, my flowrate should be about 4l/min with the pump at full speed. In reality, I run my pump at 4000rpm because that's super quiet and is only 0.3°C worse in temps. That should be about 3l/min, so if there's no ticking at those speeds, it should be fine.


----------



## dante`afk

anyone having any mounting ideas for the 6 LT? I just have it lose in the back of my tower at the moment.


----------



## broodro0ster

dante`afk said:


> anyone having any mounting ideas for the 6 LT? I just have it lose in the back of my tower at the moment.


I made a plate of plexi where I screwed the AQ6 on. And then velcro'd the plexi plate to my PSU.


----------



## Shawnb99

I finally order myself an aquaero XT and all because if I’ve item my order is delayed. 
Ordered most parts from Performance-PC, Calitemp sensor is in stock when I place my order but by the time they are ready to ship it’s not in stock for at least a month.
So I order the rest of what I need from Aquatuning, all parts in stock except when it’s ready to ship and now the 70cm vision cable is out of stock and no idea when it’ll be back.

So I can’t win and can’t complete my build.
So not happy at all with ether company.
I’ll never buy from Aquatuning again the customer service is like pulling teeth. 
What is it with Aquacomputer gear never in stock?



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## wheatpaste1999

broodro0ster said:


> I made a plate of plexi where I screwed the AQ6 on. And then velcro'd the plexi plate to my PSU.


Lol this is exactly what I have done. Works great!


----------



## Barefooter

Shawnb99 said:


> I finally order myself an aquaero XT and all because if I’ve item my order is delayed.
> Ordered most parts from Performance-PC, Calitemp sensor is in stock when I place my order but by the time they are ready to ship it’s not in stock for at least a month.
> So I order the rest of what I need from Aquatuning, *all parts in stock except when it’s ready to ship and now the 70cm vision cable is out of stock* and no idea when it’ll be back.
> 
> So I can’t win and can’t complete my build.
> So not happy at all with ether company.
> I’ll never buy from Aquatuning again the customer service is like pulling teeth.
> What is it with Aquacomputer gear never in stock?
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk



I'm not sure if this is the cable you are looking for but if it is you could buy it directly from Aqua Computer
https://shop.aquacomputer.de/product_info.php?language=en&products_id=3488

.


----------



## iamjanco

Barefooter said:


> I'm not sure if this is the cable you are looking for but if it is you could buy it directly from Aqua Computer
> https://shop.aquacomputer.de/product_info.php?language=en&products_id=3488
> 
> .


I believe the one he's after is this one:

*aquabus cable 4 pins for VISION, QUADRO, D5 NEXT*

Added: Highflow looks like *they have them in stock*. I've ordered from them before and had no problems, but I'd check shipping with them first about shipping costs. If I recall correctly, it was somewhat on the high side two years back or so. Me, I'd probably build one of my own if I needed one, but I already have the tools to do so with.


----------



## Shawnb99

iamjanco said:


> I believe the one he's after is this one:
> 
> *aquabus cable 4 pins for VISION, QUADRO, D5 NEXT*
> 
> Added: Highflow looks like *they have them in stock*. I've ordered from them before and had no problems, but I'd check shipping with them first about shipping costs. If I recall correctly, it was somewhat on the high side two years back or so. Me, I'd probably build one of my own if I needed one, but I already have the tools to do so with.




Thanks for the suggestions. I’ll check them out

Yep it's still high, they want $45 CDN for shipping. That's a bit much for just 4 cables. I'll have to keep looking.


----------



## Leonko

Aquacomputers Aquabus cable is nothing special, no special functionality... it is only naming. You can use any other 4pin extension cable you find instead


----------



## broodro0ster

Btw, is there anyone that's using the mechanical High Flow sensor in combination with Mayhems pastel?
I've read about issues clogging in the flow sensor, but wouldn't a GPU or CPU block clog faster than a flow sensor?


----------



## Shawnb99

Leonko said:


> Aquacomputers Aquabus cable is nothing special, no special functionality... it is only naming. You can use any other 4pin extension cable you find instead




Thank for that info. I’ll try another cable then rather then waiting indefinitely for it.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## GAN77

Thanks Aquacomputers for the quality components that I applied in my construction:
-mps flow 400
-QUADRO fan controller.
-Aqualis micro for pump adapters 165 ml art. 34083
-Vario D5 pump motor with speed signal art. 41091
-Pump adapter for D5 pumps art. 41094


----------



## Aenra

Repeating in case it helps 

Has anyone used a Hubby7 and run into any IOMMU issues?
(if so, what was your platform/motherboard and on what distro?)

And apologies for /bumping this.


----------



## Shawnb99

Delete


----------



## zeroibis

wheatpaste1999 said:


> Lol this is exactly what I have done. Works great!


Same, except I used cardboard covered with electrical tape.


----------



## GTXJackBauer

Shawnb99 said:


> Thank for that info. I’ll try another cable then rather then waiting indefinitely for it.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


IIRC, it's the same as any PWM fan cable.


----------



## war4peace

broodro0ster said:


> So when you lower the pump speed, it's not ticking anymore?


Correct.



broodro0ster said:


> From my calculations based on water in/out temperature in my radiators, my flowrate should be about 4l/min with the pump at full speed. In reality, I run my pump at 4000rpm because that's super quiet and is only 0.3°C worse in temps. That should be about 3l/min, so if there's no ticking at those speeds, it should be fine.


Liquid temperature delta depends on a lot of factors. Whether you have all components in series, what speed the fans are at, etc. But at 3l/min my flow meter doesn't tick.


----------



## kc5vdj

I got a notification today that there is a new version of Aquasuite, and I'm having a problem getting 2018-8 installed.

I uninstalled 2018-1, and downloaded the installer from the site.

It downloads just over 19 megs, and exits, and does nothing. It's like it's not executing the setup once it's downloaded.

Is there a place where I can get the full file instead of just the downloader? Is it still on my disk? If so, where can I find it?

Late edit. I see some crashdumps of the downloader in MyApps. Each time, it did complete the download. I still cannot find the actual file downloaded though.


----------



## Shawnb99

Delete


----------



## war4peace

kc5vdj said:


> I got a notification today that there is a new version of Aquasuite, and I'm having a problem getting 2018-8 installed.
> 
> I uninstalled 2018-1, and downloaded the installer from the site.
> 
> It downloads just over 19 megs, and exits, and does nothing. It's like it's not executing the setup once it's downloaded.
> 
> Is there a place where I can get the full file instead of just the downloader? Is it still on my disk? If so, where can I find it?
> 
> Late edit. I see some crashdumps of the downloader in MyApps. Each time, it did complete the download. I still cannot find the actual file downloaded though.


Exit MSI Afterburner and then try again.
The issue is actually with RTSS (Riva Tuner Statistics Server) overlay which interferes with how Aquasuite handles its own overlay. I am guessing that is the cause.


----------



## exploiteddna

Shoggy said:


> USB can be only connected to the mainboard. You can not connect device to each other via USB, this can be only done via aquabus.
> I am not sure which splitter you mean. If you want to connect more than one aquabus enabled device, than you will connect a spitter or y-cable to the aquabus (high) port.


So if we are trying to control 6 LL120 fans (both the fan and the rgb) is this possible at all using aquacomputer hardware? Or will we have to resort to using something like the Corsair Commander Pro and the Corsair iCUE software? The thing is.. I want to be able to use an Aquaero 6, 6 LL120 fans, and a pump (D5 Next, if I can ever get my order sent from aquatuning) without having to use both the aquasuite AND the iCUE software. If I have to get a Commander Pro, then I think I will have to use corsair software too..

EDIT: never mind.. i think i can use the aquacomputer Quadro in place of the commander pro (if it can be found in stock in the US)
but just to be clear, it is ok to connect two of the QUADRO units to an aquaero?


----------



## Ashcroft

broodro0ster said:


> Btw, is there anyone that's using the mechanical High Flow sensor in combination with Mayhems pastel?
> I've read about issues clogging in the flow sensor, but wouldn't a GPU or CPU block clog faster than a flow sensor?


The Issue with pastel or micro particle filled fluids only affects the MPS pressure based sensors like the MPS 400 flow sensor. It uses tiny between the sensor and the water flow that can become clogged apparently. The mechanical flow sensors will have no issue because its just a rotating paddle.


----------



## war4peace

Ashcroft said:


> The Issue with pastel or micro particle filled fluids only affects the MPS pressure based sensors like the MPS 400 flow sensor. It uses tiny between the sensor and the water flow that can become clogged apparently. The mechanical flow sensors will have no issue because its just a rotating paddle.


Wow that's interesting, didn't know that. I have the mechanical one and was ready to get an MPS, I guess I would have to rely on mechanical ones since I have Mayhems Pastel fluids.


----------



## broodro0ster

Ashcroft said:


> The Issue with pastel or micro particle filled fluids only affects the MPS pressure based sensors like the MPS 400 flow sensor. It uses tiny between the sensor and the water flow that can become clogged apparently. The mechanical flow sensors will have no issue because its just a rotating paddle.


Thanks. I think I'll drop the idea of putting a flow sensor in my loop. I wan't to have a chance to hear the ticking noise since my build is pretty much based on silence. And I'm afraid I don't have enough space to hide the sensor in my loop.


----------



## Shawnb99

Do I lose any functionality by only having the Quadro’s hooked up via USB and not by the Aquabus on the Aquaero?

Short a couple Aquabus cables for the Quadro’s so am wondering. All appears fine in the aquasuite so wasn’t sure. I’ll get two more cables whenever they come in stock again and I don’t pay an arm and a leg for shipping.




Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## DaLiu

I am planning to buy Aqua-Computer D5 NEXT Pump (mounted on HEATKILLER Tube 200 D5), do you think it's possible if I buy also Aqua-Computer SPLITTY9 to control all the fans (planning for 6 x NF-A12x25 PWM for 2 x HW Labs GTS 360) speed and create a curve based on the water temperature for the pump and the fans? Need to mention I have 0 experience with watercooling, I am just planning my first loop. Does the pump have temperature sensor included?


----------



## exploiteddna

DaLiu said:


> I am planning to buy Aqua-Computer D5 NEXT Pump (mounted on HEATKILLER Tube 200 D5), do you think it's possible if I buy also Aqua-Computer SPLITTY9 to control all the fans (planning for 6 x NF-A12x25 PWM for 2 x HW Labs GTS 360) speed and create a curve based on the water temperature for the pump and the fans? Need to mention I have 0 experience with watercooling, I am just planning my first loop. Does the pump have temperature sensor included?


good luck finding a D5 Next .. ive had an order for one for a while now.. i have my heatkiller tube 200 d5 waiting for it, but it may be a while. 

Like you, I am also trying to figure out which combination of aquaero/splitty9/quadro I need to be able to control my 6x LL120 (speed and rgb), the pump, and 2 LED lighting strips


----------



## DaLiu

michaelrw said:


> good luck finding a D5 Next .. ive had an order for one for a while now.. i have my heatkiller tube 200 d5 waiting for it, but it may be a while.
> 
> Like you, I am also trying to figure out which combination of aquaero/splitty9/quadro I need to be able to control my 6x LL120 (speed and rgb), the pump, and 2 LED lighting strips


I would love to hear from you once you have an update regarding the combination you found. My build is planned for next year, so I have time to prepare everything I need, currently I have ordered only the fittings, tubing and tools I need for bending hard PETG tubing.

Btw, D5 Next pump is on stock on https://www.highflow.nl


----------



## YNONO

michaelrw said:


> good luck finding a D5 Next .. ive had an order for one for a while now.. i have my heatkiller tube 200 d5 waiting for it, but it may be a while.
> 
> Like you, I am also trying to figure out which combination of aquaero/splitty9/quadro I need to be able to control my 6x LL120 (speed and rgb), the pump, and 2 LED lighting strips


For controlling your fans and your LEDs you can go with one of each of the Quadro and Aquaero and that will give you enough fan headers for independent control and rpm reading of each fan ,But! not your LED's ( the Aquaero will only control 12 v RGB LED's and not individually).
For your LEDs you need the Quadro and a Splitty 4 not a 9.
The Aquaero will not work .
That said the Quadro well only control 64 individually addressable LED‘s per Quadro and with 6 LL120 fans you end up with 96 LED’s .
So with two each Splitty 4 and Quadro you will be able to control all of your fans individually and LEDs And the D5 pump on one of the extra fan headers.

That’s a lot of money to spend especially when you get a fan controller and LED controller with the LL120 fans and free software via IQ or corsair link, Something to think about.
Although I think aquasuite software is a lot better.

I Hope this helps.


----------



## exploiteddna

YNONO said:


> For controlling your fans and your LEDs you can go with one of each of the Quadro and Aquaero and that will give you enough fan headers for independent control and rpm reading of each fan ,But! not your LED's ( the Aquaero will only control 12 v RGB LED's and not individually).
> For your LEDs you need the Quadro and a Splitty 4 not a 9.
> The Aquaero will not work .
> That said the Quadro well only control 64 individually addressable LED‘s per Quadro and with 6 LL120 fans you end up with 96 LED’s .
> So with two each Splitty 4 and Quadro you will be able to control all of your fans individually and LEDs And the D5 pump on one of the extra fan headers.
> 
> That’s a lot of money to spend especially when you get a fan controller and LED controller with the LL120 fans and free software via IQ or corsair link, Something to think about.
> Although I think aquasuite software is a lot better.
> 
> I Hope this helps.


is there any way to do it with 1 aquaero, 1 quadro, and 2 of splitty 4 ?
or maybe i remove the aquero and just use 2 quadro (if possible)
or i can get the aquaero without the display on it which will save some money.

but ur right, if i had to buy 1 aquaero, 2 quadro, 2 splitty4 .. thats a alot.. around $300 USD


----------



## YNONO

michaelrw said:


> is there any way to do it with 1 aquaero, 1 quadro, and 2 of splitty 4 ?
> or maybe i remove the aquero and just use 2 quadro (if possible)
> or i can get the aquaero without the display on it which will save some money.
> 
> but ur right, if i had to buy 1 aquaero, 2 quadro, 2 splitty4 .. thats a alot.. around $300 USD


Only the fans but not the LED's. The Quadro can only control 64 LED's and only 1 Splitty 4, not 2.
That's why I said 2 of each and forget the Aquaero.

In my system I run one Quadro for my fans and pump. My fans are not RGB but I do have 64 RGBpx LED's
in the case which the Quardro does run.


----------



## GTXJackBauer

They designed this horribly where you basically need a QUADRO/SPLITTY4 for every 4 set of RGB addressable fans like Corsair's LL RGB fans. I'd have to spent a few hundred to control x9 RGB Fans (x3 QUADROs/x3 SLITTY4s) if I were to do an upgrade down the road. I figured, you're just better off using the Aquaero to control the fans and Corsair iCue to control the RGBs. 

I wish Corsair's iCue was more stable as it has made some progress to what Corsair Link use to be but AC had a big opportunity here but flopped it by making it ridiculously expensive to control many RGB fans in one's own rig. Now if they make a hub to control more RGB fans than buying a bunch of QUADROs and SPILLY4s, that would be something I'd be of interest to me and I'm sure to many.


----------



## kc5vdj

war4peace said:


> Exit MSI Afterburner and then try again.
> The issue is actually with RTSS (Riva Tuner Statistics Server) overlay which interferes with how Aquasuite handles its own overlay. I am guessing that is the cause.


Thanks for the response. That could be it, as it was running. I'll give this a try later in the day after I get some sleep. Going to be doing the whole DDU + Radeon 2019 install, so, I might as well do this too.

Thanks again!


----------



## kc5vdj

Are there any modern TR4 blocks with Aquabus?

I won a 1950X a couple of months ago from AMD, and will be doing an unexpected workstation build this coming year with it.


----------



## DirtyBear

Hi Guys !
So is there anyone got the new D5 Next yet ?
Because I got 2 problems need to be fix and sees if anyone ran into the same problem I got


----------



## socialite2dot0

Hey All, 

I'm in the process of planning a couple loops to fit in a Tower 900 and want to use my High Flow Sensors (53068). Even though its a huge case, space is still somewhat of a premium due to its design. I remember reading somewhere that the sensor should be a certain distance from the pump and angled fittings to give the most accurate readings. The sheer size of this thread and the amount of info in it makes it almost impossible to find anything even after doing multiple searches. Is there anyone that possibly knows this figure offhand or that could point me in the right direction? Any help would be greatly appreciated!


----------



## war4peace

I have placed my high flow sensor immediately after a pair of pumps in series, then when I have rebuilt my loop I have placed it immediately before. No variation in readings, well there's of course the 1% variation which is normal with fluids, but otherwise no problem. 
My advice: place it wherever you want.


----------



## exploiteddna

YNONO said:


> Only the fans but not the LED's. The Quadro can only control 64 LED's and only 1 Splitty 4, not 2.
> That's why I said 2 of each and forget the Aquaero.
> 
> In my system I run one Quadro for my fans and pump. My fans are not RGB but I do have 64 RGBpx LED's
> in the case which the Quardro does run.





GTXJackBauer said:


> They designed this horribly where you basically need a QUADRO/SPLITTY4 for every 4 set of RGB addressable fans like Corsair's LL RGB fans. I'd have to spent a few hundred to control x9 RGB Fans (x3 QUADROs/x3 SLITTY4s) if I were to do an upgrade down the road. I figured, you're just better off using the Aquaero to control the fans and Corsair iCue to control the RGBs.
> 
> I wish Corsair's iCue was more stable as it has made some progress to what Corsair Link use to be but AC had a big opportunity here but flopped it by making it ridiculously expensive to control many RGB fans in one's own rig. Now if they make a hub to control more RGB fans than buying a bunch of QUADROs and SPILLY4s, that would be something I'd be of interest to me and I'm sure to many.


yeah.. an aquaero and a cammander pro will set me back just about the same as aquaero + 2 spliity4 + 2 quaddro ... im almost inclined to just use the motherboard headers for everything lul .. idk. i have some time to think about it but not too much.. im waiting for d5 next order to be fulsilled but i dont think that will be happening until the end of the month.

also, while i wont have any more than 6 LL120 fans, i was hoping to add 1 or 2 rgb strips. i could always just get some 5050 ones and connect to motherboard. my board has 4 headers - 2 addressable and 2 5050 headers.


----------



## zeroibis

socialite2dot0 said:


> Hey All,
> 
> I'm in the process of planning a couple loops to fit in a Tower 900 and want to use my High Flow Sensors (53068). Even though its a huge case, space is still somewhat of a premium due to its design. I remember reading somewhere that the sensor should be a certain distance from the pump and angled fittings to give the most accurate readings. The sheer size of this thread and the amount of info in it makes it almost impossible to find anything even after doing multiple searches. Is there anyone that possibly knows this figure offhand or that could point me in the right direction? Any help would be greatly appreciated!





war4peace said:


> I have placed my high flow sensor immediately after a pair of pumps in series, then when I have rebuilt my loop I have placed it immediately before. No variation in readings, well there's of course the 1% variation which is normal with fluids, but otherwise no problem.
> My advice: place it wherever you want.



Yea with that sensor there is no such issue. The one that has the special install instructions is the mps flow sensor:
"For an accurate measurement we recommend to use a straight piece of tubing with a min. length of 5 cm before and after the sensor. The sensor itself should not be equipped with angled fittings."


In addition the mps flow sensor if I recall correctly although not stated in on the product page requires that the loop not be fully pressure sealed and thus requires the use of a membrane to maintain pressure equalization with the outside. (as also required by the fill level sensor)


----------



## Ashcroft

zeroibis said:


> Yea with that sensor there is no such issue. The one that has the special install instructions is the mps flow sensor:
> "For an accurate measurement we recommend to use a straight piece of tubing with a min. length of 5 cm before and after the sensor. The sensor itself should not be equipped with angled fittings."
> 
> 
> In addition the mps flow sensor if I recall correctly although not stated in on the product page requires that the loop not be fully pressure sealed and thus requires the use of a membrane to maintain pressure equalization with the outside. (as also required by the fill level sensor)


Nah the MPS flow meters are fully differential sensors so the pressure in the loop can go up and down without affecting the flow reading. The Sensor relies on sensing the difference in pressure before and after a thin orifice. This differential changes with flow.

The fill level sensors just use the absolute pressure at the base of the res. If the top is not ventilated then pressure build due to temperature will look the same as a much taller water column in the res.

They are clever little blighters.


----------



## Spin Cykle

Does anyone have any RMA experience with Aquacomputer? How long are the turn around times? 

I have a Quadro (my 2nd/brand new) and the RGBpx header does not work. I've verified it is the Quadro controller by using the RGBpx cable and connection from my Splitty4 (1 of 2) to my 1st Quadro controller. Once I do this, all my LL120's light up. I've also noticed some strange behavior from Aquasuite 2018-9 and the Quadro that has the dead header. I have Aquasuite set to run at windows start and have seen the faulty Quadro not retain any previous applied settings even though I've saved them. After windows boots, the controller forgets Temp sensor names, fan profiles and other random behavior. I've also expierened crashes from Aquasuite after attempting to correct the naming/fan profiles. My Quadro's are connected via USB to different headers on the MB. The faulty Quadro does have RGBpx strips turned on in the system tab with lighting profiles set up under the RGBpx tab. 

Has anyone experienced this type of behavior before? I was really hoping it's a software/setup issue and not a hardware one requiring RMA.


----------



## socialite2dot0

war4peace said:


> I have placed my high flow sensor immediately after a pair of pumps in series, then when I have rebuilt my loop I have placed it immediately before. No variation in readings, well there's of course the 1% variation which is normal with fluids, but otherwise no problem.
> My advice: place it wherever you want.





zeroibis said:


> socialite2dot0 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Hey All,
> 
> I'm in the process of planning a couple loops to fit in a Tower 900 and want to use my High Flow Sensors (53068). Even though its a huge case, space is still somewhat of a premium due to its design. I remember reading somewhere that the sensor should be a certain distance from the pump and angled fittings to give the most accurate readings. The sheer size of this thread and the amount of info in it makes it almost impossible to find anything even after doing multiple searches. Is there anyone that possibly knows this figure offhand or that could point me in the right direction? Any help would be greatly appreciated!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> war4peace said:
> 
> 
> 
> I have placed my high flow sensor immediately after a pair of pumps in series, then when I have rebuilt my loop I have placed it immediately before. No variation in readings, well there's of course the 1% variation which is normal with fluids, but otherwise no problem.
> My advice: place it wherever you want.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> 
> Yea with that sensor there is no such issue. The one that has the special install instructions is the mps flow sensor:
> "For an accurate measurement we recommend to use a straight piece of tubing with a min. length of 5 cm before and after the sensor. The sensor itself should not be equipped with angled fittings."
> 
> 
> In addition the mps flow sensor if I recall correctly although not stated in on the product page requires that the loop not be fully pressure sealed and thus requires the use of a membrane to maintain pressure equalization with the outside. (as also required by the fill level sensor)
Click to expand...




Ashcroft said:


> zeroibis said:
> 
> 
> 
> Yea with that sensor there is no such issue. The one that has the special install instructions is the mps flow sensor:
> "For an accurate measurement we recommend to use a straight piece of tubing with a min. length of 5 cm before and after the sensor. The sensor itself should not be equipped with angled fittings."
> 
> 
> In addition the mps flow sensor if I recall correctly although not stated in on the product page requires that the loop not be fully pressure sealed and thus requires the use of a membrane to maintain pressure equalization with the outside. (as also required by the fill level sensor)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Nah the MPS flow meters are fully differential sensors so the pressure in the loop can go up and down without affecting the flow reading. The Sensor relies on sensing the difference in pressure before and after a thin orifice. This differential changes with flow.
> 
> The fill level sensors just use the absolute pressure at the base of the res. If the top is not ventilated then pressure build due to temperature will look the same as a much taller water column in the res.
> 
> They are clever little blighters.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the clarification guys, I really appreciate it!

2.0


----------



## H2OMachine

Dirty bear I have two of them as well still doing my setup and build what's up? 

And shaggy I bought the rgb rings for the aqaulis reservoir but I have the D5 next how do I hook both up since they use the 4 pin connection


----------



## DirtyBear

H2OMachine said:


> Dirty bear I have two of them as well still doing my setup and build what's up?
> 
> And shaggy I bought the rgb rings for the aqaulis reservoir but I have the D5 next how do I hook both up since they use the 4 pin connection


AC -already made a new software update but still I dont know what made the software crash , And it seems there's are few ppl got the same problem

https://forum.aquacomputer.de/weite...m/108811-sensor-of-gpu-core-stopping-working/

https://forum.aquacomputer.de/weite.../108808-farbwerk-issue-with-software-sensors/


----------



## wa3pnt

My D5 NEXT arrived from Aquatuning US yesterday (Shipped from Germany). Amazing 2 days to arrive in Arizona, especially during the Christmas season.

When I attempted to remove the pump itself from the base, which is required to place a coupling ring on the pump, the pump housing separated. That is, the bottom of the pump with the connector remained in the base, and the body of the pump came up and out. Fortunately, I was doing it very carefully, and was able to stop before the wiring between the pump body and pump base was damaged.

I pushed the pump back together, and heard a snap. When I again pulled the pump from the base, the entire pump came out as it should.

I appears as if the base of the pump was not fully inserted into the walls of the pump during assembly.

It will be several days before I can install and check to see if there is any damage to the D5 NEXT assembly. There does not appear to be, and of course I cannot apply power until I have a loop installed to provide the coolant for the pump.

Has anyone else experienced this with the Pump?

I cannot provide pictures, as now everything is assembled as it should be.

RodeoGeorge


----------



## H2OMachine

Hey shoggy I picked up the new aqualis reservoir rgb rings that plug into the D5 next question is how do I run the Next pumps to the aquearo if the rgb rings take up the 4 pin bus connection. Or does the in and out options on the ring exactly for this purpose. So D5 next>rgb ring(in)> 4 pin rgb ring (out)>aquearo?


----------



## H2OMachine

wa3pnt said:


> My D5 NEXT arrived from Aquatuning US yesterday (Shipped from Germany). Amazing 2 days to arrive in Arizona, especially during the Christmas season.
> 
> When I attempted to remove the pump itself from the base, which is required to place a coupling ring on the pump, the pump housing separated. That is, the bottom of the pump with the connector remained in the base, and the body of the pump came up and out. Fortunately, I was doing it very carefully, and was able to stop before the wiring between the pump body and pump base was damaged.
> 
> I pushed the pump back together, and heard a snap. When I again pulled the pump from the base, the entire pump came out as it should.
> 
> I appears as if the base of the pump was not fully inserted into the walls of the pump during assembly.
> 
> It will be several days before I can install and check to see if there is any damage to the D5 NEXT assembly. There does not appear to be, and of course I cannot apply power until I have a loop installed to provide the coolant for the pump.
> 
> Has anyone else experienced this with the Pump?
> 
> I cannot provide pictures, as now everything is assembled as it should be.
> 
> RodeoGeorge



I've pulled the adapter off several times and have not yet had an issue with the pump wall separating from itself.


----------



## wa3pnt

wa3pnt said:


> My D5 NEXT arrived from Aquatuning US yesterday (Shipped from Germany). Amazing 2 days to arrive in Arizona, especially during the Christmas season.
> 
> When I attempted to remove the pump itself from the base, which is required to place a coupling ring on the pump, the pump housing separated. That is, the bottom of the pump with the connector remained in the base, and the body of the pump came up and out. Fortunately, I was doing it very carefully, and was able to stop before the wiring between the pump body and pump base was damaged.
> 
> I pushed the pump back together, and heard a snap. When I again pulled the pump from the base, the entire pump came out as it should.
> 
> I appears as if the base of the pump was not fully inserted into the walls of the pump during assembly.
> 
> It will be several days before I can install and check to see if there is any damage to the D5 NEXT assembly. There does not appear to be, and of course I cannot apply power until I have a loop installed to provide the coolant for the pump.
> 
> Has anyone else experienced this with the Pump?
> 
> I cannot provide pictures, as now everything is assembled as it should be.
> 
> RodeoGeorge


I hooked up a reservoir and loop of tubing so that I could fire up the D5 NEXT.

Every thing is operating as it should.

I have also removed the Pump from the Base several times now without incident.

RodeoGeorge


----------



## Shawnb99

On the D5 Next with the Ultitop, the outlet is at the top correct?

Is there a top that has the inlet in top orientation? Looking at possibly adding this to my loop instead of my MCP35X2 and trying to picture the tube routing I’d need.

Have 2 360’s in the top and 2 in the bottom in a pedestal of a Caselabs M8. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## exploiteddna

mine arrived a few days before xmas too.. but i wont be able to install it until i get back home on January 2nd or 3rd

is the removal of the housing (what you guys are talking about above) described in the little manual that came with it? I would hate to destroy this brand new pump


----------



## ChiTownButcher

I still have my fingers crossed for a Dual D5 "Next" serial pump top. If you make it I will say TAKE MY MONEY.


----------



## GTXJackBauer

ChiTownButcher said:


> I still have my fingers crossed for a Dual D5 "Next" serial pump top. If you make it I will say TAKE MY MONEY.


That would be great as well.


----------



## war4peace

I third that. Dual pumps are becoming mainstream now.


----------



## broodro0ster

michaelrw said:


> mine arrived a few days before xmas too.. but i wont be able to install it until i get back home on January 2nd or 3rd
> 
> is the removal of the housing (what you guys are talking about above) described in the little manual that came with it? I would hate to destroy this brand new pump


They state it in their manual and product page that you can remove the controller from the pump to install it in a pump top or reservoir/top combo. Just be careful and pull straight.


----------



## skupples

hey folks, long time no chat.

I pulled a 1st gen Farbwerk out of my stash, thinking I could just mate a 4 prong RGB adapter into it(from CM) but I'm not seeing any standard RGB head like everything now uses.

What kind of adapter would I need? 

the goal is to use the farbwerk & an old aqauaero 5 on this glass panel CM case for basic monitoring of an air cooled system. I couldn't just put my X79 parts into storage. 

also, is there anyway to test the functionality of the big three prong flow meter without hooking it into a loop? 

yes, i know all my stuff is 5 years old.  

I see my 6 pro is still legit tho   



war4peace said:


> I third that. Dual pumps are becoming mainstream now.




that's good to hear, i've been using dual swiftech for ages. its simply 100% necessary in a large loop. I think one of them died a ways back though, luckily I have an extra pump on hand.


----------



## ChiTownButcher

war4peace said:


> I third that. Dual pumps are becoming mainstream now.


Personally I would not do a large loop without serial D5's incase one goes you still have fluid moving and keep a spare in the spare parts bin so if one goes I have no down time other than drain, swap and fill the loop.


----------



## skupples

ChiTownButcher said:


> Personally I would not do a large loop without serial D5's incase one goes you still have fluid moving and keep a spare in the spare parts bin so if one goes I have no down time other than drain, swap and fill the loop.


exactly.

1 of 2 pumps was barely enough to keep water properly moving through my loop, but better than no pumps. D5, DDC, either way, i've always seen two as necessity.


----------



## Shawnb99

skupples said:


> exactly.
> 
> 
> 
> 1 of 2 pumps was barely enough to keep water properly moving through my loop, but better than no pumps. D5, DDC, either way, i've always seen two as necessity.




I’ve always seen two as a necessity as well. Just for the extra head alone considering all bends and stuff in my loop.

They make a dual top model and I’ll grab one for sure 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## skupples

dual pumps on a dual loop, sounds sexy. I might have to put that on the list for when I block this 1080 ti. 

so, those male/male LED adapters, that's what I need for Farbwerks, i think. 

browsing LED adapters is making my head work.

I need some sort of male/male adapter to mate with this farbwerk.


----------



## broodro0ster

Is it possible to setup a 2 point controller with the D5 Next via USB or Aquabus? I don't like to use curves for pump speed. I just want a low and high pump speed during idle and load. I can do this now with my EK D5 that's PWM controlled (basically as a fan), but I'm not sure if this works with real pumps.


----------



## GTXJackBauer

broodro0ster said:


> Is it possible to setup a 2 point controller with the D5 Next via USB or Aquabus? I don't like to use curves for pump speed. I just want a low and high pump speed during idle and load. I can do this now with my EK D5 that's PWM controlled (basically as a fan), but I'm not sure if this works with real pumps.


I don't see why not and IIRC, I think you need it to be connected to the AQ to have those features otherwise you lose some as a standalone but could be wrong.


----------



## broodro0ster

GTXJackBauer said:


> I don't see why not and IIRC, I think you need it to be connected to the AQ to have those features otherwise you lose some as a standalone but could be wrong.


I have an Aquaero 6 so that's not the problem. I saw some screenshots of the D5 Next interface and I didn't see the option for a 2 point controller. But maybe it's different via Aquabus. I don't know because I only have 1 PWM D5 pump that I control as a fan.


----------



## Barefooter

skupples said:


> dual pumps on a dual loop, sounds sexy. I might have to put that on the list for when I block this 1080 ti.
> 
> so, those male/male LED adapters, that's what I need for Farbwerks, i think.
> 
> browsing LED adapters is making my head work.
> 
> I need some sort of male/male adapter to mate with this farbwerk.


Is this what you are looking for http://www.performance-pcs.com/modmytoys-connection-plug-for-rgb-flex-lights-2-pcs.html


----------



## skupples

Right outta my dreams.
Thank you.


----------



## Kleslie86

I’m cutting and pasting the exact questions I have to the top here because I didn’t realize I would give that much background information/ramble on the problem that generated the creation of this post. If they seem like random questions, I promise you’ll understand if you feel like you have some time to spare to read the post in its entirety haha!

Questions:

What would you do to make use of the Aquacomputer PowerAdjust faceplate given today’s lack of 5-1/4” bay enclosures?

Does anyone know of a way to increase depth of space between the front plates and where the 3-1/2” adapter begins of the Lian Li EX-H34SB? 

Linked here: http://www.performance-pcs.com/lian...e-holding-four-hot-swap-3-5-sata-sas-hdd.html

Are there possibly longer mounting brackets I could purchase than those in which Aquacomputer supplies with the PowerAdjust faceplate?

Lastly...and this one isn’t actually in the post itself...

Is there a true metal (aluminum or steel) 5-1/4” HDD cage to be found anywhere that I could mount somewhere in a chassis that does not include a, soon-to-be extinct, 5-1/4” drive bay? Ohhh I wish Caselabs were still around...damn Trump tariffs! 😝


TO THE ACTUAL POST:

Hello mighty Aquaero nation!! I hope to join your ranks soon, however my Aquaero is still sitting in its exquisite little box because I’ve been too busy designing the final pieces of my build. So many details and complimentary pictures need to be added in for everyone to fully get what is hindering the assembly process but I’ll do my best to lay it all out. 

I’m building in “The Tower 900” case that I’m sure many of you are aware of, is a monstrous case relative to most chassis that you see, however it’s deceptively small due to how they have designed the bottom. I understand it’s a modular case (and that I likely should have chosen a smaller one for my first true water-cooled rig) giving builders the option of moving pieces whereever they so choose but “The Tower” isn’t quite a Caselabs case if you know what I mean? Every piece is a bit less “durable” and not quite as interchangeable.

If your aim is to build what the case was designed for, E-ATX MB, vertically mounting the GPU(’s), two full loops, etc...I could be wrong but I believe one will quickly realize that there isn’t as much space as they initially thought primarily due to the fact that half the case is technically “hidden” behind the MB and the accompanying cable management/grommet section just below the MB tray, and the two 480/560mm rad sections, 1 per each side. The MB tray cuts the case depth-wise, almost smack dab down the middle and while this gives builders the advantage of tons of cable management area to maneuver with, the drawback is the fact that with two fulls loops and the components they expect you to want to display through all that 5mm thick tempered glass is that you’re effectively losing half your tower. Also, given that the case is more vertically inclined than horizontally (like what is more common with a standard, traditional chassis) there is very little floor space for components when you consider that the upper half of the viewing area is expected to be specifically aimed at displaying your motherboard, RAM, CPU, GPU, etc... 

I swear I’m getting to the point soon...I just realized how long this is already 😳

I’m sure this isn’t a problem for most as most modern cases entirely leave out 5-1/4” bays as we typically don’t have optical drives anymore and if we do, they’re external/desktop drives. Hard drives are being replaced with SSD’s which Thermaltake understood fully when designing this case. But what happens if you WANT a standard 5-1/4” cage? I know that a traditional 5-1/4” hard drive cage isn’t exactly sexy to look at and would likely detract from the view if sitting adjacent to the aforementioned components, but I for one, find beauty in the Aquacomputer Aquadrive in all of its box-shaped glory. And with the countless, never-ending list of 2-1/2 + 3-1/2” bay adapters on the market, I would think that people would still appreciate a full sized drive bay here or there.

To specifically state my issue, it is that I went all out on Aquacomputer gear for this build as I decided, if I’m going to get the Aquaero, I want to fully explore Aquasuites feature-filled program via their different temp sensors, flow sensors, Farbwerk, Quadro, and what brings us to today’s lengthy post, PowerAdjust modules. That’s right, one of the simplest components to my build has been causing me fits because of the fact that there is only one (1) full sized 5-1/4” bay in the entire chassis and that so happens to be located externally, right on the front of the case where the Aquaero is going. I love the look of the PowerAdjust faceplate that I discovered I could use for mounting my Farbwerks as well but unless I purchase a random computer tower from five-ish years ago, rip it’s HDD cage out to throw in “The Tower”, I would essentially have to “hide” all of these modules behind the motherboard tray, and I don’t want to do that.

I understand that these modules, most of them, are designed to be hidden because all of the wiring required to utilize them but that’s exactly what you could do with a 5-1/4” enclosure that is slowly become extinct. I can’t mount three PowerAdjusts to the plate bezel on a 3-1/2” cage without it looking very off-putting so my question to anyone who has bothered to read this far down my post is,

**********
What would you do to make use of the Aquacomputer PowerAdjust faceplate given today’s lack of 5-1/4” bay enclosures?
**********

I found the Lian Li EX-H34SB...

And it can be found here:

http://www.performance-pcs.com/lian...e-holding-four-hot-swap-3-5-sata-sas-hdd.html

The reason I don’t simply purchase this model is because the the front of the enclosure doesn’t appear to provide enough depth behind where the faceplates would be installed to attach the sets of Farbwerks and PowerAdjust modules. The front of my enclosure will have two Aquacomputer faceplates with PowerAdjust 3 and Farbwerk modules mounted to them butbI fear that the short depth this enclosure allows for before adapting to a 3-1/2” bay enclosure would give me nothing but fits in terms cable routing to the modules. 

********
Does anyone know of a way to increase depth of space between the front plates and where the 3-1/2” adapter begins?
********

Are there possibly longer mounting brackets I could purchase than those in which Aquacomputer supplies with the PowerAdjust faceplate? I only want to expose the two Aquacomputer plates into the viewing area of the chassis and then with the third bay at the top, I want to turn into a base where I would mount a 5-7” screen displaying only the Aquasite program and all of its compiled data. It would protrude out just far enough where the increased opening at the front of the enclosure (where the modules are mounted) would be hidden behind the motherboard tray/grommet area which I plan to extend fully to the very floor of the case. 

As I mentioned, I’m going to include pictures to further illustrate my ideas as I’m sure I’m leaving out necessary information needed to help others fully understand what I’m talking about...I tend to do this often it seems...

Also, if anyone has other ideas I’m always open to suggestion as to the best/most aesthetically pleasing way to achieve this desire or maybe something else I should consider entirely. I also wanted to say I appreciate anyone who actually read this novella I’m apparently written unintentionally. 

Links:

https://shop.aquacomputer.de/product_info.php?products_id=2572

The mentioned faceplate and there’s also an image on that webpage showing the mounted modules and the amount of depth I would need to provide behind the faceplate before the enclosure adapts to a 3-1/2” bay.


https://www.thermaltake.com/products-model_gallery.aspx?id=C_00002975


The mentioned chassis I’m working with and many pictures showing the modular yet also restrictive (again IMO) building area within.

Any and all help will be greatly appreciated!


----------



## war4peace

I would 3D print an enclosure for the Aquaero 6 and mount it wherever I wished, if I were you.


----------



## ChiTownButcher

"Modern" 5.25 bays are technically called half height 5.25 Bay which is for CD/DVD/Blu Ray drives, the EQ6 ect and has a faceplate dimension of 5.75" wide x 1.625" tall. The drive bay is called 5.25 because of 30+yr oldschool floppy's that fit in them were 5.25 wide.

A 3.5" External Drive bays I have not seen in 20 years as they were for 3.5" floppy disks (hard shell floppy) and the faceplate measured 4" wide x 1" tall.

A 3.5" internal HDD bay is for Hard Drives and the measure about 4" wide x .8" tall with the tray.

Bottom Line is a 5.25 Disk Drive bay device will not fit in a 3.5 Disk Drive or 3.5 HDD slot because the hole is to small for the peg (Insert that's what she said joke).

3D print or fabricate something to hold it or just cut a 5.25 Floppy Disk drive bay out of an old computer with a drill and dremmel.

Or take a look at their other "Next" products like the "D5 Next" that have many of the same functions as I am getting the feeling this reason is why they are developing the product line as 5.25" bays go the way of the dinosaur.


----------



## Kleslie86

ChiTownButcher said:


> "Modern" 5.25 bays are technically called half height 5.25 Bay which is for CD/DVD/Blu Ray drives, the EQ6 ect and has a faceplate dimension of 5.75" wide x 1.625" tall. The drive bay is called 5.25 because of...


I purchased two of the D5 Next pumps, one for each loop, and can’t wait to install them. But with the PowerAdjust/Farbwerk/possible mini-display enclosure I’m designing, it is going to sit inside the chassis, barely protruding out of the rear/hidden portion of the tower because there is just one external bay on the entire chassis that I will slot the Aquaero 6 XT into. 

I have considered purchasing an older tower just to rip an old internal or external enclosure/cage from it but the majority of them that I’ve seen (with the exception of the Aquadrive and the Lian Li model I referenced, look so dated it would clash heavily with the rest of the components I’m filling the tower with. I understand they would appear dated because they are truly dated as you mentioned, I just have zero experience with a 3D printer. Come to think of it...I don’t know anyone, nor have I ever been in the presence of, a 3D printer. I need to make more friends 😫 haha! 

If I opt to go that route, do you have any suggestions as to what model printer I should consider pursuing? And thank you very much for your reply!

Kyle


----------



## Kleslie86

war4peace said:


> I would 3D print an enclosure for the Aquaero 6 and mount it wherever I wished, if I were you.


Do you have any recommendations on a decent 3D printer that will achieve this task and not break the bank? I know nothing when it comes to that tech, and I really want it to be sturdy since it may be sporting a 5-7” display on it as well. I know it would be safer leaving the display off the proposed enclosure either externally or just in another area of the build but after toying with several different layouts for a dual-loop, there really just isn’t a ton of room...

Thanks for your reply!


----------



## skupples

I’m surprised that’s not a product someone made due to the near total phase out of bays. 

I figured I’d mount mine in the 2x internal HDD bays on the CM case. Getting a face plate bezel made would be nice though.

What’s that one euro site that makes case mod parts? Board shrouds, etc.


----------



## poisson21

For 3D printer , i was gifted for christmas a creality cr-10s, is just under 400 € with some promo code and have a big community and a lot of free stuff to upgrade it. A simple program like freeCad is easily usable even for a novice. I intend to make my next pc case with it.


----------



## ChiTownButcher

You could just make one out of acrylic if you know how to work with the stuff.


----------



## Barefooter

Happy new year @Shoggy!

Can you tell us when to expect the Aqausuite 2019 to release?


----------



## broodro0ster

Barefooter said:


> Happy new year @Shoggy!
> 
> Can you tell us when to expect the Aqausuite 2019 to release?


I don't think it will be anytime soon. They released Aquasuite 2018 only a few months ago.


----------



## Barefooter

broodro0ster said:


> I don't think it will be anytime soon. They released Aquasuite 2018 only a few months ago.


Actually the 2018 version has been out for six months now.

The reason I was asking is because I need to update the Aquasuite and all the firmware on my current build again. The last time I went through all that it was only a week later and the next version of Aquasuite came out and I had to update all the firmware again, which is kind of a pain to do on a second Aquaero used as a slave unit.

I didn't want to go through the entire process again, just to find out the 2019 version is coming out next week


----------



## Kleslie86

skupples said:


> I’m surprised that’s not a product someone made due to the near total phase out of bays.
> 
> I figured I’d mount mine in the 2x internal HDD bays on the CM case. Getting a face plate bezel made would be nice though.
> 
> What’s that one euro site that makes case mod parts? Board shrouds, etc.


I believe the one you’re thinking of might be 
www.coldzero.eu

I did send them a message two days again but I’ve yet to receive a reply. If there’s another company you know of, I’d love to reach out to them as well. I liked the coldzero site because that guy does lightboxes and hundreds of enclosures, backplates, HDD cages, etc. for all different kinds of manufactured chassis and components.


----------



## Kleslie86

poisson21 said:


> For 3D printer , i was gifted for christmas a creality cr-10s, is just under 400 € with some promo code and have a big community and a lot of free stuff to upgrade it. A simple program like freeCad is easily usable even for a novice. I intend to make my next pc case with it.


I will check that out for sure. Thanks for the advice!


----------



## Kleslie86

ChiTownButcher said:


> You could just make one out of acrylic if you know how to work with the stuff.


Unfortunately I fail to have experience with acrylic as well but whether it be that or 3D printing, looks like I’m about to have a new hobby 😜


----------



## skupples

Kleslie86 said:


> I believe the one you’re thinking of might be
> www.coldzero.eu
> 
> I did send them a message two days again but I’ve yet to receive a reply. If there’s another company you know of, I’d love to reach out to them as well. I liked the coldzero site because that guy does lightboxes and hundreds of enclosures, backplates, HDD cages, etc. for all different kinds of manufactured chassis and components.


that's the one.
wow they've come a long way.


----------



## war4peace

Kleslie86 said:


> Do you have any recommendations on a decent 3D printer that will achieve this task and not break the bank? I know nothing when it comes to that tech, and I really want it to be sturdy since it may be sporting a 5-7” display on it as well. I know it would be safer leaving the display off the proposed enclosure either externally or just in another area of the build but after toying with several different layouts for a dual-loop, there really just isn’t a ton of room...
> 
> Thanks for your reply!


Well, you don't need one. You need to find a local 3D printing company who would take your 3D CAD design and print it. I have printed several small projects for 20 to 50 EUR, but of course I had to design my own 3D blueprints.


----------



## Kleslie86

war4peace said:


> Well, you don't need one. You need to find a local 3D printing company who would take your 3D CAD design and print it. I have printed several small projects for 20 to 50 EUR, but of course I had to design my own 3D blueprints.


I cannot tell you how much I appreciate your input. I never even thought of researching a 3D printing company. I live in a rural state (the only “city” holds near half the population) but after researching companies in the nearest REAL city, most of them let you send in your 3D designs online and they claim to give you a quote relatively quickly. 

Thank you!! 🙏🏽


----------



## war4peace

You are welcome, mate. This is the simplest method to obtain small custom items.


----------



## socialite2dot0

*Possible Solution...*



Kleslie86 said:


> I’m cutting and pasting the exact questions I have to the top here because I didn’t realize I would give that much background information/ramble on the problem that generated the creation of this post. If they seem like random questions, I promise you’ll understand if you feel like you have some time to spare to read the post in its entirety haha!
> 
> Questions:
> 
> What would you do to make use of the Aquacomputer PowerAdjust faceplate given today’s lack of 5-1/4” bay enclosures?
> 
> Does anyone know of a way to increase depth of space between the front plates and where the 3-1/2” adapter begins of the Lian Li EX-H34SB?
> 
> Linked here: http://www.performance-pcs.com/lian...e-holding-four-hot-swap-3-5-sata-sas-hdd.html
> 
> Are there possibly longer mounting brackets I could purchase than those in which Aquacomputer supplies with the PowerAdjust faceplate?
> 
> Lastly...and this one isn’t actually in the post itself...
> 
> Is there a true metal (aluminum or steel) 5-1/4” HDD cage to be found anywhere that I could mount somewhere in a chassis that does not include a, soon-to-be extinct, 5-1/4” drive bay? Ohhh I wish Caselabs were still around...damn Trump tariffs! 😝
> 
> 
> TO THE ACTUAL POST:
> 
> Hello mighty Aquaero nation!! I hope to join your ranks soon, however my Aquaero is still sitting in its exquisite little box because I’ve been too busy designing the final pieces of my build. So many details and complimentary pictures need to be added in for everyone to fully get what is hindering the assembly process but I’ll do my best to lay it all out.
> 
> I’m building in “The Tower 900” case that I’m sure many of you are aware of, is a monstrous case relative to most chassis that you see, however it’s deceptively small due to how they have designed the bottom. I understand it’s a modular case (and that I likely should have chosen a smaller one for my first true water-cooled rig) giving builders the option of moving pieces whereever they so choose but “The Tower” isn’t quite a Caselabs case if you know what I mean? Every piece is a bit less “durable” and not quite as interchangeable.
> 
> If your aim is to build what the case was designed for, E-ATX MB, vertically mounting the GPU(’s), two full loops, etc...I could be wrong but I believe one will quickly realize that there isn’t as much space as they initially thought primarily due to the fact that half the case is technically “hidden” behind the MB and the accompanying cable management/grommet section just below the MB tray, and the two 480/560mm rad sections, 1 per each side. The MB tray cuts the case depth-wise, almost smack dab down the middle and while this gives builders the advantage of tons of cable management area to maneuver with, the drawback is the fact that with two fulls loops and the components they expect you to want to display through all that 5mm thick tempered glass is that you’re effectively losing half your tower. Also, given that the case is more vertically inclined than horizontally (like what is more common with a standard, traditional chassis) there is very little floor space for components when you consider that the upper half of the viewing area is expected to be specifically aimed at displaying your motherboard, RAM, CPU, GPU, etc...
> 
> I swear I’m getting to the point soon...I just realized how long this is already 😳
> 
> I’m sure this isn’t a problem for most as most modern cases entirely leave out 5-1/4” bays as we typically don’t have optical drives anymore and if we do, they’re external/desktop drives. Hard drives are being replaced with SSD’s which Thermaltake understood fully when designing this case. But what happens if you WANT a standard 5-1/4” cage? I know that a traditional 5-1/4” hard drive cage isn’t exactly sexy to look at and would likely detract from the view if sitting adjacent to the aforementioned components, but I for one, find beauty in the Aquacomputer Aquadrive in all of its box-shaped glory. And with the countless, never-ending list of 2-1/2 + 3-1/2” bay adapters on the market, I would think that people would still appreciate a full sized drive bay here or there.
> 
> To specifically state my issue, it is that I went all out on Aquacomputer gear for this build as I decided, if I’m going to get the Aquaero, I want to fully explore Aquasuites feature-filled program via their different temp sensors, flow sensors, Farbwerk, Quadro, and what brings us to today’s lengthy post, PowerAdjust modules. That’s right, one of the simplest components to my build has been causing me fits because of the fact that there is only one (1) full sized 5-1/4” bay in the entire chassis and that so happens to be located externally, right on the front of the case where the Aquaero is going. I love the look of the PowerAdjust faceplate that I discovered I could use for mounting my Farbwerks as well but unless I purchase a random computer tower from five-ish years ago, rip it’s HDD cage out to throw in “The Tower”, I would essentially have to “hide” all of these modules behind the motherboard tray, and I don’t want to do that.
> 
> I understand that these modules, most of them, are designed to be hidden because all of the wiring required to utilize them but that’s exactly what you could do with a 5-1/4” enclosure that is slowly become extinct. I can’t mount three PowerAdjusts to the plate bezel on a 3-1/2” cage without it looking very off-putting so my question to anyone who has bothered to read this far down my post is,
> 
> **********
> What would you do to make use of the Aquacomputer PowerAdjust faceplate given today’s lack of 5-1/4” bay enclosures?
> **********
> 
> I found the Lian Li EX-H34SB...
> 
> And it can be found here:
> 
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/lian...e-holding-four-hot-swap-3-5-sata-sas-hdd.html
> 
> The reason I don’t simply purchase this model is because the the front of the enclosure doesn’t appear to provide enough depth behind where the faceplates would be installed to attach the sets of Farbwerks and PowerAdjust modules. The front of my enclosure will have two Aquacomputer faceplates with PowerAdjust 3 and Farbwerk modules mounted to them butbI fear that the short depth this enclosure allows for before adapting to a 3-1/2” bay enclosure would give me nothing but fits in terms cable routing to the modules.
> 
> ********
> Does anyone know of a way to increase depth of space between the front plates and where the 3-1/2” adapter begins?
> ********
> 
> Are there possibly longer mounting brackets I could purchase than those in which Aquacomputer supplies with the PowerAdjust faceplate? I only want to expose the two Aquacomputer plates into the viewing area of the chassis and then with the third bay at the top, I want to turn into a base where I would mount a 5-7” screen displaying only the Aquasite program and all of its compiled data. It would protrude out just far enough where the increased opening at the front of the enclosure (where the modules are mounted) would be hidden behind the motherboard tray/grommet area which I plan to extend fully to the very floor of the case.
> 
> As I mentioned, I’m going to include pictures to further illustrate my ideas as I’m sure I’m leaving out necessary information needed to help others fully understand what I’m talking about...I tend to do this often it seems...
> 
> Also, if anyone has other ideas I’m always open to suggestion as to the best/most aesthetically pleasing way to achieve this desire or maybe something else I should consider entirely. I also wanted to say I appreciate anyone who actually read this novella I’m apparently written unintentionally.
> 
> Links:
> 
> https://shop.aquacomputer.de/product_info.php?products_id=2572
> 
> The mentioned faceplate and there’s also an image on that webpage showing the mounted modules and the amount of depth I would need to provide behind the faceplate before the enclosure adapts to a 3-1/2” bay.
> 
> 
> https://www.thermaltake.com/products-model_gallery.aspx?id=C_00002975
> 
> 
> The mentioned chassis I’m working with and many pictures showing the modular yet also restrictive (again IMO) building area within.
> 
> Any and all help will be greatly appreciated!


I too am building in the Tower 900, and like you I need two 5.25 bays so my solution is this...

https://mod-one.com/external-ac-aquaero-6-xt-mount/

I'll be using it to mount the Aquaero onto the angled face of the center console. It will require a little bit of modding; namely removing the mounting arms, cutting out space for the Aquaero to slot into the angled portion and then drilling holes for mounting the plate permanently. Doing this will free up the only available 5.25 bay for any device of your choosing.


----------



## skupples

nice to see more than one website making custom parts these days, i'll have to bookmark them./

also nice to see a new case come to market, I look forward to seeing what they do next. I'll never part with my STH10, but I'm definitely looking for what to build in next... However, I'll likely convert my old sliding tray ikea desk before anyone else now that I've met someone that can procure & properly bore the holes needed to mount a 2x5 foot piece of glass on the top.


----------



## Aenra

Help, me caveman. Know sculpting pretty on cave wall. Also food. Food nice. TECH-o-NO-logy, no so much. You help now.

Am thinking of getting one of these, so many times i could have used it; except i'm not sure how it works, lol, never even seen its like before.
Anyone knows? I mean it says paste, but it looks like a bar..

https://shop.aquacomputer.de/product_info.php?products_id=2016


----------



## skupples

I'd bet on it being the consistency of pastel... or somewhere around there. 

- dremmel's polishing thing looks similar (Besides color) & that's its' consistency.


----------



## Aenra

skupples said:


> I'd bet on it being the consistency of pastel


Yeah, thing is, i figured if it really is so, i'd have a bit of an issue once i tore it open, you know? Assuming that is prolonged contact with air is an issue; as stated, clueless..
I _have_ however seen other pastes from other brands and well, they looked like you'd expect one to look, container included, hence my wondering.

(am aware of tricks such as toothpaste, but frankly not a fan.. you need some water to clean it off and not all areas are fit for that, no matter how little you think you've applied on your cloth)


----------



## Aenra

Unrelated to the above, but i made an order during the w/end, some other stuff; and deserves to be mentioned, Aqua Computer's the friendliest and most responsive service i've so far come across in the PC market.

I keep getting pleasantly surprised 
Much obliged folks.


----------



## skupples

you'd rub it on the dye like a piece of oil chalk (pastel crayon) then wrap it up in a bag when done.


----------



## Aenra

skupples said:


> you'd rub it on the dye like a piece of oil chalk (pastel crayon) then wrap it up in a bag when done.


I'll get one, report after having used it. Thanks 

(got just the thing too, unused H80i? 90i? Had one bought for a family member's PC but never got around to installing it; it's.. definitively greenish by now, lol)


----------



## skupples

those might require more than just rubbing compound to buff out to a mirror shine, if they're how I remember. it may require super high grit buffing paper first.


----------



## Aenra

skupples said:


> those might require more than just rubbing compound to buff out to a mirror shine, if they're how I remember. it may require super high grit buffing paper first.


To be honest, there's an inbetween. I only know the term in my native language, well.. my.. other native language, lol, but anyway, they're these liquid compounds mixed with.. crystals(?) of some sort, you may have come across them as "grinding pastes", though the term is misleading. A very good alternative, easier to use and of more controlled a result.
So my original caveman joking aside, i asked because this kind of.. bar linked above i've not seen before, but such pastes i have. Only they're expensive 

The bar on the other hand...


----------



## skupples

I think their bar is for the final lapping only.


----------



## jvillaveces

Aenra said:


> Help, me caveman. Know sculpting pretty on cave wall. Also food. Food nice. TECH-o-NO-logy, no so much. You help now.
> 
> Am thinking of getting one of these, so many times i could have used it; except i'm not sure how it works, lol, never even seen its like before.
> Anyone knows? I mean it says paste, but it looks like a bar..
> 
> https://shop.aquacomputer.de/product_info.php?products_id=2016


Best results by putting a dab of it on a buffing wheel. You can also use a clean rag and a lot of elbow grease


----------



## Aenra

jvillaveces said:


> Best results by putting a dab of it on a buffing wheel. You can also use a clean rag and a lot of elbow grease


Thanks for the tip; will be trying it out soon enough


----------



## skupples

best results always start with a dab,.


----------



## poisson21

For once i have a question, does anyone have the exact size of https://shop.aquacomputer.de/product_info.php?products_id=2572 and the position of the back screw from the front, i need it because i try to 3d print my next case and need it to actually do the 3dmodel of the front face where it'll go. Same thing for the aquaero 6, i'll move mine just above the bezel.


----------



## skupples

I can measure an aquaero & mounting plates if that's one of the things you need? my mounting plates are for caselab though - they use pin & screw to secure.


----------



## poisson21

yeah that's it, thanks,the placement of the screw on the mounting plate will be fine. Does the mounting plate for caselab different from the normal one ??


----------



## skupples

it's an addon that screws into the stock sides...

trying to find my tailors' tape so I can get an accurate picture for you.


----------



## boli

So broodro0ster gave me this tip:


broodro0ster said:


> 2. Change your top fans to intake and add an exhaust fan in the back. This dropped my watertemps by 5°C.


when I posted pictures of adding an Aquaero to my build (and for completeness older pictures from before adding it).

Because 5°C lower water temp for a simple change was very intriguing, I had to try this. Spoiler: it worked!

I'm posting details in this thread because you mostly see Aquasuite desktop stuff. 

*Before: 3 fans on front rad as intake, 2 fans on top rad as exhaust, no back exhaust fan.*
When I added the Aquaero I didn't put the back exhaust fan back in. That was a mistake, as it turns out.

I ran Furmark and Prime95 stress tests for 30+ minutes, until temperatures were stable, to get here:








ΔT (water - ambient) was at 19.6°C, and GPU at 60.0°C! It never gets this hot while gaming, as this is a worst case.

Let's put all numbers into a list:

ΔT (water - ambient): 19.6°C
GPU: 60°C
middle of case: 41.93°C
top exhaust: 47.31°C

*Midway: Just added a single back exhaust fan, top still as exhaust:*
This improved temperatures considerably:








ΔT (water - ambient): 18.06°C
GPU: 57°C
middle of case: 38.59°C
top exhaust: 45.33°C

*End: keeping the single back exhaust fan, while flipping the top fans to work in pull as another intake:*








ΔT (water - ambient): 13.77°C
GPU: 53°C
middle of case: 39.36°C
top exhaust: no longer available, it's another intake now:
top intake: 29.59°C

*So, overall, the ΔT (water - ambient) dropped by 5.83°C and the GPU by 7°C!*

I was totally amazed by this, in particular because the Evolv X case is somewhat restrictive in the top, and because of cold air going down to get warm is against physics – that's what fans are for I suppose. 

Because of only a single exhaust fan the airflow suffered a little bit compared to the top exhaust with back exhaust fan, as evidenced by the slight increase of the "middle of the case" temp – it still beats the starting configuration. 

But because the top rad gets cooler outside air now, it can dissipate a lot more heat, resulting in a lot lower water temp, and consequently, GPU temp.

While gaming for 2+ hours after this I finally reached ΔT of 10°C with ~800 rpm fans, which I never have before. Also the GPU ran 15 MHz faster because it stayed below 45°C.


----------



## Barefooter

^ That's a great improvement! Thanks for sharing :thumb:


----------



## war4peace

boli said:


> I was totally amazed by this, in particular because the Evolv X case is somewhat restrictive in the top, and because of cold air going down to get warm is against physics – that's what fans are for I suppose.


I am happy to have helped.
The thing about hot air rising is true but this behavior is misinterpreted by at least an order of magnitude. Hot air rises fairly slowly and has little buoyancy, especially when talking about small Delta T.
A very interesting read can be found here. More specifically:


> For typical atmospheric conditions (20 °C, 68 °F), a hot air balloon heated to (99 °C, 210 °F) requires about 3.91 m³ of envelope volume to lift 1 kilogram (62.5 ft³/lb)


So we are talking about 3.91 cubic meters of air at a delta T of 79 degrees Celsius which can lift 1 kg of mass! 

But this doesn't help us when talking about hot air in a case versus surrounding air, so here's where some online calculators come in handy.
First I am using the air density calculator to obtain the air density at 25 degrees Celsius and 40 degrees Celsius, respectively.
Air at 25 degrees Celsius has a density of 1.184 kg/m³.
Air at 40 degrees Celsius has a density of 1.1272 kg/m³.
Let's now consider a computer case full of air at 40 degrees Celsius, with WxDxH equal to 50 cm on all sides (bigger than my Thermaltake Core X5). The lifting force of the hot air inside can be calculated using this other tool, and the results are in>

Lifting Force: 0.0697 (N), 0.0071 (kg), 0.0156 (lb)

So the hot air in the case can keep about 3 ping pong balls in the air. 

Let's now have some more fun... you said you have two fans in the top rad, blowing air down. I'll make some assumptions here, using the famous Noctua NF-F12 PWM fans as reference. From the manufacturer's webpage, the fans' static pressure is 2,61 mm H₂O. 
Now, force is pressure multiplied by area, and the area of a 120mm fan is 0.01130973336 square meters. Using another useful calculator, we obtain a Noctua NF-F12 PWM fan force to be 0.289187 Newtons. Since there are two fans, their total force is 0.289187*2 = 0.578374 Newtons.

So:
Hot air pushing up: 0.07 (N)
Cold air pushing down: 0.58 (N)
That's 8.3 times more force from fans than hor air rising. I think we're all safe 

I hope you enjoyed this physics demonstration, I hope I haven't messed up my calculations.


----------



## Aenra

...

Or, you could simply have used your head and reached said same conclusion without use of a 180 euro controller or specialised knowledge, calculators and physics?

It's what i mean when i keep saying some of you really like making your life complicated, lol. I know it may be annoying to read, but.. anyway, glad you're now seeing an improvement.

(not bashing Aqua Computer; i do own an AQ6 XT. But i own one so as to make my life easier ^^)


----------



## skupples

Aenra said:


> ...
> 
> Or, you could simply have used your head and reached said same conclusion without use of a 180 euro controller or specialised knowledge, calculators and physics?
> 
> It's what i mean when i keep saying some of you really like making your life complicated, lol. I know it may be annoying to read, but.. anyway, glad you're now seeing an improvement.
> 
> (not bashing Aqua Computer; i do own an AQ6 XT. But i own one so as to make my life easier ^^)


They really do. I’ve been using aquaeros for years and have yet to do a lick of math & my temps are always as good as they can get with a 90 degree office. 

It also helps to overkill - 4x fat 480s could cool a mini nuclear reactor 😂

So can a normal 3 prong extensiond work for an aqua bus cable? I forget. 

Also... time to re-read up on how to slave this old model 5 for extra fan headers.

Also also. Does anyone have any theoretical issues with putting a flow meter right off the pump?


----------



## Aenra

skupples said:


> i) can a normal 3 prong extensiond work for an aqua bus cable?
> 
> ii) how to slave this old model 5 for extra fan headers.
> 
> iii) putting a flow meter right off the pump?



i) Assuming i get you? They do not sell a 3-way splitter Aquabus cable, so i'd take a hint from that; but again, you could always buy this:
https://shop.aquacomputer.de/product_info.php?language=en&products_id=3775 (and before you say it, do note the difference, this has a chip to forward so many signals)
Or this: https://shop.aquacomputer.de/product_info.php?products_id=3420 (your usage depending)
Alternatively, they sell two-way splitters for both 3 and 4 pin connections, though you can make these yourself if visuals are a thing for you (the manual lists the pin layout)

Either way, your actual "limitation" is the AQ5/6 itself; so it depends on what you want to do with said 3-way thingie and on how much else is going on on the AQ6_ simultaneously_. 
 For AQ6, the limits are:
12 fan outputs
64 temperature sensors
6 pumps
14 flow sensors
4 fill level or pressure sensors
9 RGB outputs
1 relay contact

ii) it's in your manual; everything including how to re..re-set it, in case you mess it up. I'd advise your doing this outside your case, for practical ease 

iii) personally there's only one place i'd consider for a flow meter and that's right before the IN of the res, ie at the very 'end' of the loop. Meaning i'd also plan accordingly in terms of space inside the case. But again, that's me and that's regarding the old school type. Have seen and read of their mechanical, but frankly it poses other kinds of complications that (you guessed it) am not willing to live with.​


----------



## Aenra

Messed up the font size when pasting, sorry, lol


----------



## skupples

I think I got it all sorted, as long as one SATA can power 16 AP15s - then the bottom bank can function as one unit, off the same header for rpm, etc. (using bitspower’s pwm hub)

As to the aqua bus - I just mean using a fan extension cable To make my 3 pin “aquabus” cable longer. not a splitter. 

I’ve looked at those add on boards that stack on, but I’m overly rusty on all the little idocinracies for getting excessive amounts of things all connected to one unit. For now, I think I’ve got it all figured. Minus testing an extension cable to my flow meter can reach its respective 3 pin header.


----------



## war4peace

Aenra said:


> ...
> Or, you could simply have used your head and reached said same conclusion without use of a 180 euro controller or specialised knowledge, calculators and physics?
> It's what i mean when i keep saying some of you really like making your life complicated, lol. I know it may be annoying to read, but.. anyway, glad you're now seeing an improvement.
> (not bashing Aqua Computer; i do own an AQ6 XT. But i own one so as to make my life easier ^^)


I had been knowing that already, the calculations were for everyone else. It was a mind exercise.
I've seen time and again people saying "use tops as exhausts because hot air rises", which is incorrect and maybe my post would have been helpful.
I like using my brain, sorry if you disagree.


----------



## Aenra

war4peace said:


> I like using my brain, sorry if you disagree.


If your framing it thus makes you feel better, not the one to disabuse you. Free world.



skupples said:


> I think I got it all sorted, as long as one SATA can power 16 AP15s


In the context of fans, a single SATA tops (or should, according to specs) at 54W. Between you and me, i'd never dare take it that high on a crappy slim wire, but.. let's say we stick to specs and consider 54W as tops. Am saying in the context of fans as both they and/or their controller typically draw only from the 12v pins. The SATA's total is irrelevant for you here.
I sincerely doubt you can drive 16 AP15s at a maximum of 54Ws draw (0,28Amps each, lol, no way), but you know best.

You can do that yeah; any fan cable will work for that kind of extension


----------



## boli

war4peace said:


> The thing about hot air rising is true but this behavior is misinterpreted by at least an order of magnitude. Hot air rises fairly slowly and has little buoyancy, especially when talking about small Delta T.


FWIW, I did appreciate the summary of this common misconception (which at this point I no longer held obviously), and the calculations I found useful for scale.


----------



## Shawnb99

boli said:


> So broodro0ster gave me this tip:
> 
> 
> 
> when I posted pictures of adding an Aquaero to my build (and for completeness older pictures from before adding it).
> 
> 
> 
> Because 5°C lower water temp for a simple change was very intriguing, I had to try this. Spoiler: it worked!
> 
> 
> 
> I'm posting details in this thread because you mostly see Aquasuite desktop stuff.
> 
> 
> 
> *Before: 3 fans on front rad as intake, 2 fans on top rad as exhaust, no back exhaust fan.*
> 
> When I added the Aquaero I didn't put the back exhaust fan back in. That was a mistake, as it turns out.
> 
> 
> 
> I ran Furmark and Prime95 stress tests for 30+ minutes, until temperatures were stable, to get here:
> 
> View attachment 247190
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ΔT (water - ambient) was at 19.6°C, and GPU at 60.0°C! It never gets this hot while gaming, as this is a worst case.
> 
> 
> 
> Let's put all numbers into a list:
> 
> 
> ΔT (water - ambient): 19.6°C
> 
> GPU: 60°C
> 
> middle of case: 41.93°C
> 
> top exhaust: 47.31°C
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Midway: Just added a single back exhaust fan, top still as exhaust:*
> 
> This improved temperatures considerably:
> 
> View attachment 247192
> 
> 
> 
> ΔT (water - ambient): 18.06°C
> 
> GPU: 57°C
> 
> middle of case: 38.59°C
> 
> top exhaust: 45.33°C
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *End: keeping the single back exhaust fan, while flipping the top fans to work in pull as another intake:*
> 
> View attachment 247194
> 
> 
> 
> ΔT (water - ambient): 13.77°C
> 
> GPU: 53°C
> 
> middle of case: 39.36°C
> 
> top exhaust: no longer available, it's another intake now:
> 
> top intake: 29.59°C
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *So, overall, the ΔT (water - ambient) dropped by 5.83°C and the GPU by 7°C!*
> 
> 
> 
> I was totally amazed by this, in particular because the Evolv X case is somewhat restrictive in the top, and because of cold air going down to get warm is against physics – that's what fans are for I suppose.
> 
> 
> 
> Because of only a single exhaust fan the airflow suffered a little bit compared to the top exhaust with back exhaust fan, as evidenced by the slight increase of the "middle of the case" temp – it still beats the starting configuration.
> 
> 
> 
> But because the top rad gets cooler outside air now, it can dissipate a lot more heat, resulting in a lot lower water temp, and consequently, GPU temp.
> 
> 
> 
> While gaming for 2+ hours after this I finally reached ΔT of 10°C with ~800 rpm fans, which I never have before. Also the GPU ran 15 MHz faster because it stayed below 45°C.




With all rads your better off with them as intakes. The air outside your case will almost be cooler then inside. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## gamefoo21

As an owner, I'm a little disappointed with the cost and complexity increase needed to add two digital inline temperature sensors.

I love the little sheet that says, by the way these sensors aren't actually as accurate as we list them, but you can add pipe insulation, and that will improve their accuracy.

So what is their accuracy when used as supplied? What is their accuracy with insulation?


On a positive note, I really like the filter assembly, it's so pretty looking. I finally got it mounted in a workable position. One thing I wasn't expecting was that it definitely hit my flow rates, 15-40LPM, IIRC. I wish they would make one in an inline layout, I'd buy it.


----------



## skupples

By the way - flow and temp are almost identical at any point in a loop. 

Had to refresh my memory before stating as such last night.

Yes - some sensors could benefit from being a few inches off of the pump, but besides that it really doesn’t matter.

Same for water - temps fluctuate 1-2c max anywhere in a loop. 

Once again - had to go back and check my own logs & cunsult with a buddy that builds hydro-plants for a living ( not to be confused with hydro plants)

As to 16 fans off a SATA - zero issues. Controller is nice and cool, jacked into my EVGA 1300 n the head unit for tach. 

Also - standard three pin extension to reaxg the black RPM header - fine.


----------



## war4peace

skupples said:


> By the way - flow and temp are almost identical at any point in a loop.


I'll play the Devil's advocate here with a couple exceptions to this rule.
One exception is when you are using GPU and CPU in parallel, and place the flow meter between them.
Regarfing liquid temperature within the loop, the liquid temperature is highest at the point of entry in the first radiator and lowest at the exit point from the last radiator. By calculating tht delta T between those sensors, combined with the overall liquid flow in the loop and water thermal dissipation coefficient, Aquaero can calculate instantaneous power dissipation of the radiator(s). My Delta T at that point (Rad IN vs Rad OUT) was a maximum of 2.4 degrees Celsius, with a power dissipation of 1.4 KW, while cryptomining on 2x GTX 1080 Ti, one GTX 1080 and CPU benching at the same time.


----------



## skupples

That’s true but in my experience that’s only ever a couple C max from one rad or another. 

Just woke up to a puddle under my system. Looks like one of the bottom radiators suffered some sorta blow out somewhere inside the radiator. It’s definitely not from the screws. I know that much. 

I was suspecting this to happen, just during the table leak tests, not once it was all in. 😕 another week of downtown incoming!

I thought the most accurate delta data was done via the temp of air going in & the temp of water/air coming out. Guess I remembered wrong. Good thing I’ve got plenty of internal and external probes plugged in.


----------



## broodro0ster

skupples said:


> That’s true but in my experience that’s only ever a couple C max from one rad or another.
> 
> Just woke up to a puddle under my system. Looks like one of the bottom radiators suffered some sorta blow out somewhere inside the radiator. It’s definitely not from the screws. I know that much.
> 
> I was suspecting this to happen, just during the table leak tests, not once it was all in. 😕 another week of downtown incoming!
> 
> I thought the most accurate delta data was done via the temp of air going in & the temp of water/air coming out. Guess I remembered wrong. Good thing I’ve got plenty of internal and external probes plugged in.


Delta T is just the difference between 2 temperatures. This can the difference between the ambient and watertemp, but also the difference between water in and out temp.


----------



## war4peace

skupples said:


> I thought the most accurate delta data was done via the temp of air going in & the temp of water/air coming out. Guess I remembered wrong.


Actually there are many setup methods, all equally good. It's a matter of preference, really.
I personally prefer to set up all my fans according to liquid temperature at its highest (when entering the radiator). I have a set point controller with target value 40 degrees Celsius for liquid, based on RAD IN temperature, lower than that and the fans rotate at 35% voltage, which is 4.2V, the lowest my fans could go. The reason for this is that I don't want my liquid temperature to go above this value, which only could happen during hot summers and while intensive gaming (or some mining in the past). 

I avoid Delta T between ambient and liquid because as ambient temperature rises, the target liquid temperature rises as well.


----------



## broodro0ster

war4peace said:


> Actually there are many setup methods, all equally good. It's a matter of preference, really.
> I personally prefer to set up all my fans according to liquid temperature at its highest (when entering the radiator). I have a set point controller with target value 40 degrees Celsius for liquid, based on RAD IN temperature, lower than that and the fans rotate at 35% voltage, which is 4.2V, the lowest my fans could go. The reason for this is that I don't want my liquid temperature to go above this value, which only could happen during hot summers and while intensive gaming (or some mining in the past).
> 
> I avoid Delta T between ambient and liquid because as ambient temperature rises, the target liquid temperature rises as well.


I think the other way. When I use delta T for my fans control, my liquid temps drops when it's cooler in my room ;-)
I don't want my fans to go over 1200rpm and that's an 8C delta. So I always have the coolest possible watertemps without my fans going over 1200rpm.


----------



## GTXJackBauer

boli said:


> *End: keeping the single back exhaust fan, while flipping the top fans to work in pull as another intake:*
> View attachment 247194
> 
> 
> ΔT (water - ambient): 13.77°C
> GPU: 53°C
> middle of case: 39.36°C
> top exhaust: no longer available, it's another intake now:
> top intake: 29.59°C
> 
> *So, overall, the ΔT (water - ambient) dropped by 5.83°C and the GPU by 7°C!*


As I keep telling folks but meet resistance about having the top rad as intake instead of exhaust, rads love fresh cool air. 

The End. lol


----------



## war4peace

broodro0ster said:


> I think the other way. When I use delta T for my fans control, my liquid temps drops when it's cooler in my room ;-)
> I don't want my fans to go over 1200rpm and that's an 8C delta. So I always have the coolest possible watertemps without my fans going over 1200rpm.


Depends on the size of the radiator, I guess. My delta (ambient/rad) is 4.5 degrees Celsius while machine is idling and about 9-10 degrees while gaming.


----------



## skupples

GTXJackBauer said:


> As I keep telling folks but meet resistance about having the top rad as intake instead of exhaust, rads love fresh cool air.
> 
> The End. lol


 

radiators should only ever be fed external air. Dust can be easily cleaned, & rads trap most of it anyways. I basically decided my demciflex set was a waste of money. Specially now that the magnetism is all but dead. 

today was supposed to be tuning day, but it turns out my new kitchen is showing up tomorrow, so now its cleaning day ;(


ummm... when did Aquasuite start requiring licensing? oh, I see... So was the device always licensed, or is this a newer feature than a first run AQ6XT?


----------



## Ashcroft

GTXJackBauer said:


> As I keep telling folks but meet resistance about having the top rad as intake instead of exhaust, rads love fresh cool air.
> 
> The End. lol


We have to keep fighting the good fight  

I've been arguing the same topic for years and still get the same retorts all the time ... Hot air rises !!! Uhhh Duhhh don't you know physics. ... Rads blowing warm air into the case will cause heat to 'build up'.

Its always amazed me how resistant people can be to something that should be plainly obvious if you just think about it rationally. Though I did have top exhaust in one of my first builds because it looked better until I tested it.

I've seen lots of claims like "it works better for me, or in my system" but I have yet to see any actual test that didn't show a clear benefit to rads intaking even if there is multiple.


----------



## skupples

it's like any other topic. People tend to cling to things, and it seems to be getting worse.

anywhoo.

got things tuned up well enough. 

I'm way too lazy to break it all down, but essentially, 

pump is running @ 35% duty cycle @ 100 lph, & each radiator's fan bank is set to idle until hitting a certain temp, then one kicks on, then another, then all three... at least that was the goal, but it's not working... hmmmmm

gud enuf.


----------



## Jidonsu

Damn, people still think feeding a radiator hot case air is a good idea? The best is when people are using AIOs and feeding it hot air that's coming off a non liquid cooled GPU.


----------



## skupples

I've always had my AOI's blow into my cases...

idk, maybe I'm taking the basic understanding of a car's functionality for granted. 

cold air blows into radiator to cool hot engine.

computer aspect -

suck cold air into your radiator to cool core.


----------



## speed_demon

Mounting site depends on which is more important to the owner - cooler running CPU or cooler running GPU.


----------



## ChiTownButcher

I started running all my cases in reverse years ago with the front as exhaust. Top, and back as filtered intake for the CPU even with an Air Cooler or RAD, Side if available for intake of air cooler GPU and exhaust out the front. Positive pressure is easier to obtain and everything gets cool air.


----------



## skupples

see, the only thing I see of value in a water cooled system is cold air. 

air pressure, dust, etc - that's for servers & air cooled systems


----------



## speed_demon

Time to pack up and leave Florida then. We have no shortage of cold cold air up here in the northern states. 🙂


----------



## broodro0ster

speed_demon said:


> Mounting site depends on which is more important to the owner - cooler running CPU or cooler running GPU.


The thing is that a 1080TI dumps about 280W of heat into a case when OC'ed on air and a CPU about 50-90W when OC'ed and playing a game.
When only my CPU was watercooled, the air coming out of the radiator was only 2-4°C higher than ambient. So a 2-4°C increase for the GPU. But when the radiator was configured as an exhaust, the GPU was warming up the case by about 10°C, so my CPU temp went up 10°C as well.

So you can choose: 2-4°C higher GPU temps or 10°C higher CPU temps. I know which one to choose ;-)


----------



## looniam

i got home from work a while ago and with my furnace being off ambient was 7c and water 9c.

i was going to do some benching but . . i got cold and turned on the furnace


----------



## 4WDBenio

Lol... its 45 Degrees Celsius in Sydney 

Ill keep exhausting hot hair up. 😎



looniam said:


> i got home from work a while ago and with my furnace being off ambient was 7c and water 9c.
> 
> i was going to do some benching but . . i got cold and turned on the furnace


----------



## skupples

broodro0ster said:


> The thing is that a 1080TI dumps about 280W of heat into a case when OC'ed on air and a CPU about 50-90W when OC'ed and playing a game.
> When only my CPU was watercooled, the air coming out of the radiator was only 2-4°C higher than ambient. So a 2-4°C increase for the GPU. But when the radiator was configured as an exhaust, the GPU was warming up the case by about 10°C, so my CPU temp went up 10°C as well.
> 
> So you can choose: 2-4°C higher GPU temps or 10°C higher CPU temps. I know which one to choose ;-)


yeah, that's true - most of us cool both though  or all of it. PCH, memory. etc.


----------



## broodro0ster

skupples said:


> wait, you mean if everything isn't water cooled, right?




Yes. When you put and aio on the cpu and air cool the GPU.


----------



## Shawnb99

4WDBenio said:


> Lol... its 45 Degrees Celsius in Sydney
> 
> Ill keep exhausting hot hair up. ????




Even the sun tries to kill you in Australia 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## gamefoo21

I'm not a huge fan of Delta T, because even in a mostly temperature stable house, I was pushing the room temp up 1-2'C.

I have my loop temperature sensors sitting before the first radiator after all of the components and pumps. Just like my cool side sensor is after the final radiator outlet. It keeps my loop honest... more or less. lol

I only kept the digital loop temp sensors because I owned them already, honestly their refresh rate and their temperature dependent accuracy, coupled with the extra costs for the hub, sensors, and the pain of remounting the setting battery... I'd only recommend them if you had run out of analogue temp sensor ports. I have one of the analogue sensor probes stuck to the cool side of the final rad to make sure the digitals don't misbehave.

One other sensor position, I'm a firm believer of is that the flow sensor should come at the end of the loop, with a filter in front of it. To catch any chunkies coming out of the components/rads, if using a mechanical flow sensor.

An example: Rad cold side -> temp sensor -> filter -> flow sensor -> res

What do you guys think about pressure control fittings? 

I had one in my loop, but I had to remove it, because it worked. The problem is I had it at not the highest point in the loop. Burp loop, fully bled, heat soak loop, pressure goes up, pressure relief engages, repeat a few times and I had a tiny leak. So before I go through the hassle of figuring out where to mount it in my loop again, I was going to ask for some thoughts if it's worth while to reinstall it.


----------



## skupples

I just have a little fitting that I put on the extra reservoir hole - for pressure.

though this is my first time actually using it, it's been sitting in my stash for years.

flow in a loop is the same at any given point, unless you happen to some how find a way to stick it somewhere where you flow branches off (multiple GPUs, not sure how you'd even make that work) - but don't take my word for it, maybe my engineer buddy will finally show up to explain it scientifically so y'all understand  

btw - those in-line filters have caused many a headache for many people.

as to my sensor placement - i just slip them between radiator & fan on either side. Then also have one inside the case itself for that temp and one outside the case or airflow for that temp. Why? IDK, because AC gives you a million temp sensors with each AQ kit.

edit -

idk what the deal is, but I can't get these Bitspower PWM hubs to respond to the aquaero at all. They're just pegged @ 100%, even with zero volts. 

They're the SATA powered 10 header units w/ the 2 pin PWM/tach wire.


----------



## zeroibis

Shawnb99 said:


> Even the sun tries to kill you in Australia
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk



That is because since they are upside down the sun is under them and since heat rises it gets a lot hotter there as a result :thumb:


----------



## ChiTownButcher

zeroibis said:


> Shawnb99 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Even the sun tries to kill you in Australia
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That is because since they are upside down the sun is under them and since heat rises it gets a lot hotter there as a result /forum/images/smilies/thumb.gif
Click to expand...

I assume that's a joke and not some new half baked Flat Earther "Theory". 😁


----------



## Shawnb99

Damn temperature barbs are very easy to break. Ripped off 2 of the damn sensors trying to screw them in. Not happy after paying $9 each. Very cheaply made


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## skupples

Shawnb99 said:


> Damn temperature barbs are very easy to break. Ripped off 2 of the damn sensors trying to screw them in. Not happy after paying $9 each. Very cheaply made
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk



who's were they? my BP ones are pretty secure... Secure enough that they've lasted through multiple builds.


----------



## GTXJackBauer

I thought I broke two of my cali-temp sensors a couple of weeks ago as you can reposition the rubber sensor part. It makes a funny noise but Sven from AC on the phone assured me it was fine. It will make a screeching sound and or feeling to it as if you crushed the electronics but he assured me it's just a chip behind there and not any type of small crushable electronics. Put them in and work like a charm.

The other water temp sensors I still use for years are from Phobya I believe. Half the cost and still use those along with the Cali-sensors.


----------



## Shawnb99

GTXJackBauer said:


> I thought I broke two of my cali-temp sensors a couple of weeks ago as you can reposition the rubber sensor part. It makes a funny noise but Sven from AC on the phone assured me it was fine. It will make a screeching sound and or feeling to it as if you crushed the electronics but he assured me it's just a chip behind there and not any type of small crushable electronics. Put them in and work like a charm.
> 
> 
> 
> The other water temp sensors I still use for years are from Phobya I believe. Half the cost and still use those along with the Cali-sensors.




I just broke a calitemp cable. Damn cables break so easy. Not happy at all with my Aquacomputer stuff. Damn cables are to thin and break


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk



skupples said:


> who's were they? my BP ones are pretty secure... Secure enough that they've lasted through multiple builds.




Were Aquacomputer ones


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## skupples

don't the cali's use a modular plug? I guess the break occurred somewhere you can't repair.


----------



## Shawnb99

And another broken cable. This time the USB connection for the Quadro.

By the time I’m done I’ll need at least another $50 in cables to replace what I broke 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk



skupples said:


> don't the cali's use a modular plug? I guess the break occurred somewhere you can't repair.




Broke just at the connector so unlikely to fix. All my breaks have been right at the connector. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## skupples

that's unfortunate.


----------



## Shawnb99

That’s the issue you run into with such small connections, need thin wire that break easy. 

I should be able to get by until I can get replacements.
I broke a calitemp to aquaero cable, I can use one i from my Quadro.
I broke a USB to Quadro cable, but I’ll just run that one without it.

On the USB valve for the Quadro is the fat extra black cable needed as that’s the one I broke, if not it should be usable I hope


----------



## Aenra

@Shoggy
Any chance of a Radeon VII block? And if so, what about an XCS backplate as well?


----------



## Aenra

Also, does anyone have the clock module for the AQ6?

Installed it and it's not sitting flush with the header's base; there's a bit of gap, enough so you can see the pins from Aqua's high header.
(for clarity, i've also installed the passive heatsink, but have followed instructions correctly, ie used the heatsink's shorter spacers to bridge the gap between it and the clock)

Being a proper caveman(tm), i don't have a cell phone capable of taking pics, lol.. am hoping the description suffices, if not i'll take the minolta out.

P.S. I haven't had time to test it yet, it's why i'm asking. I just assembled everything, left it there until the w/end.

P.P.S. Works fine! Thank God for weekends.


----------



## Shawnb99

I just dropped and shattered my Aqualis XT 450ml res breaking just the glass part

Is it possible to just order replacement glass?


----------



## skupples

Probably.you should be able to find it on aqua tuning.


----------



## Shawnb99

skupples said:


> Probably.you should be able to find it on aqua tuning.




Thanks. I’ve found it at a few places, the trick now is to find somewhere that doesn’t charge more for shipping then I’d pay for the replacement.
Trying to figure out what I can pad my order with so the shipping isn’t so bad.

Performance-PC’s only has the replacement glass for the 880 model otherwise I’d of jumped all over that.
I’ll try and make do with my old EK res until I can get the replacement


----------



## Shawnb99

Nope can’t find it anywhere for less then $40 shipping. I’ll order a new one I guess.
Sucks that PPC only carries the 880 model.


----------



## iamjanco

Shawnb99 said:


> I just dropped and shattered my Aqualis XT 450ml res breaking just the glass part
> 
> Is it possible to just order replacement glass?


I'd have to dig through storage and it might be a day or so, but I should have a spare 450ml glass I could send you for free, if you'll cover shipping. I'm upstate NY, about 60 miles from the Canadian border (unfortunately, on the other side of the country). 

I have that spare because I swapped it out with the 880 version way back when.


----------



## Shawnb99

iamjanco said:


> I'd have to dig through storage and it might be a day or so, but I should have a spare 450ml glass I could send you for free, if you'll cover shipping. I'm upstate NY, about 60 miles from the Canadian border (unfortunately, on the other side of the country).
> 
> 
> 
> I have that spare because I swapped it out with the 880 version way back when.
> 
> 
> 
> View attachment 255666




So I could just order the 880ml glass and use that instead? 

Thanks for the offer, I’d prefer you keep yours. If I can swap in the 880 instead I’d rather do that. 
Gives me an excuse to order new fluid.


----------



## iamjanco

Shawnb99 said:


> So I could just order the 880ml glass and use that instead?


Yup, sure can. Only thing that differs between the two are the heights of the glass.


----------



## iamjanco

iamjanco said:


> Yup, sure can. Only thing that differs between the two are the heights of the glass.


Uggghhh..... that's not entirely true; you also need the correct center strut length. They differ as well.

I also have that of course 

Now it looks like I'm talking to myself


----------



## Shawnb99

iamjanco said:


> Uggghhh..... that's not entirely true; you also need the correct center strut length. They differ as well.
> 
> 
> 
> I also have that of course
> 
> 
> 
> Now it looks like I'm talking to myself




Oooo thanks..... of course I can’t find anywhere that offers that.


----------



## Ashcroft

Shawnb99 said:


> I just dropped and shattered my Aqualis XT 450ml res breaking just the glass part
> 
> Is it possible to just order replacement glass?



You know you aren't meant to swing the system around your head by the cables right? 
I know it's fun'n' all but ya gotta be gentle with this high end German stuff.


----------



## Shawnb99

Ashcroft said:


> You know you aren't meant to swing the system around your head by the cables right?
> I know it's fun'n' all but ya gotta be gentle with this high end German stuff.




Lol I put it on the counter to leak test it and it rolled off on me. I was finished my build and leak testing and found the i had one in the res. I had issues getting a complete seal with it before so I thought to leak test it solo would be easier. 
Was always so careful but walked away for a second and crash.


----------



## Shawnb99

What are the options for dual D5 Next’s?

Will any dual D5 top work?is so will I lose any functionality?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## iamjanco

Shawnb99 said:


> Lol I put it on the counter to leak test it and it rolled off on me. I was finished my build and leak testing and found the i had one in the res. I had issues getting a complete seal with it before so I thought to leak test it solo would be easier.
> Was always so careful but walked away for a second and crash.


A lesson learned I imagine.

As for the replacement tube I promised, I actually searched for two hours or so through my huge collection in storage and I know it's here somewhere, likely hiding in generic packaging and I may have missed it. Uggghhh... I can search some more later in the week, likely more during the weekend, but if you're in a real hurry I do know ModMyMods can can get the tube for you in 3-5 days (*it's in stock at AquaComputer* in Germany), their *ModMyMods sku no. 46164*. I just got off the phone with Kevin, who confirmed that. Their price for the tube is currently US $28.25, and Kevin told me it would be about $15 US to ship to your location via Canada Post. I think you pay VAT on that as well, but I'm not sure how much. 

You can reach Kevin at either 1-844-BUY-MODS or 1-585-295-1500.

Let me know and I'll do another search toward the end of the week (it's got to be here somewhere, hidden among my hoarded storage). Sorry about the delay.


----------



## skupples

u gotta 1080ti block in that stash?!


----------



## iamjanco

skupples said:


> u gotta 1080ti block in that stash?!


Just a couple of EK FTW3 blocks and backplates that I've got plans to use.


----------



## skupples

I can cope with that. You'd wear it better


----------



## GTXJackBauer

Shawnb99 said:


> What are the options for dual D5 Next’s?
> 
> Will any dual D5 top work?is so will I lose any functionality?
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


I waited but couldn't wait no longer as one of my DDC pumps died on me so I went ahead and pulled the trigger on EK-XTOP Revo Dual D5 PWM Serial. Quite a bit pricey compared to the DDC pumps I had purchased a while back and have less head pressure than the DDCs I had which showed. 40% or 60% to push 1 GPM but with my new EK D5 PWM pumps, it takes 92%+ to get to 1 GPM. 

I should note, I added a couple of bends to the loop but still. lol 

Maybe my Aquacomputer Flow sensor 'high flow' being in vertical position is giving me a misreading but idk and might have to figure out a way if I can put it back to horizontal position.


----------



## Shawnb99

iamjanco said:


> A lesson learned I imagine.
> 
> 
> 
> As for the replacement tube I promised, I actually searched for two hours or so through my huge collection in storage and I know it's here somewhere, likely hiding in generic packaging and I may have missed it. Uggghhh... I can search some more later in the week, likely more during the weekend, but if you're in a real hurry I do know ModMyMods can can get the tube for you in 3-5 days (*it's in stock at AquaComputer* in Germany), their *ModMyMods sku no. 46164*. I just got off the phone with Kevin, who confirmed that. Their price for the tube is currently US $28.25, and Kevin told me it would be about $15 US to ship to your location via Canada Post. I think you pay VAT on that as well, but I'm not sure how much.
> 
> 
> 
> You can reach Kevin at either 1-844-BUY-MODS or 1-585-295-1500.
> 
> 
> 
> Let me know and I'll do another search toward the end of the week (it's got to be here somewhere, hidden among my hoarded storage). Sorry about the delay.




I can wait as long as you need. I’ll figure something out to get my system working in the mean time. Thank you again for this.


----------



## Aenra

Does anyone know if the AQ6 uses the 5V rail from the Molex header?

(they do list all four, but they'd do that anyway; they need list the right order, so if you're clueless, you'll know how to connect the plug. Since however that doesn't necessarily mean it's actually drawing from both 12V and 5V.. well, hence the question)


----------



## IT Diva

Aenra said:


> Does anyone know if the AQ6 uses the 5V rail from the Molex header?
> 
> (they do list all four, but they'd do that anyway; they need list the right order, so if you're clueless, you'll know how to connect the plug. Since however that doesn't necessarily mean it's actually drawing from both 12V and 5V.. well, hence the question)






It does.


----------



## skupples

.the woman, the myth, the legend!


----------



## Barefooter

IT Diva said:


> It does.


Good to see you back IT Diva!


----------



## Aenra

IT Diva said:


> It does.


Welcome back 

You'd be amused to know the question arose from reading one of your older posts here, lol.. thanks for clarifying!


----------



## IT Diva

skupples said:


> .the woman, the myth, the legend!





Barefooter said:


> Good to see you back IT Diva!





Got burnt out building custom PCs and needed something with a much more visceral reward . . . .


----------



## Aenra

....lol

Some things never change after all 
Stay happy and occupied ^^


----------



## skupples

Gorgeous.


----------



## Aenra

My plans have been foiled! I don't have enough molexes for everything, lol.. is 'molexes' a term? And does poetic license count for anything?
To explain. Original plan was to take the 4 'free' "GPU" plugs from my PSU, make my own cables that take 12v and Gd and end in a Molex header; problem solved.

- Except the Aquaero draws 5v from the Molex, so that's one 'NO'. (confirmed)
- The Quadro says in the product page that "supply: 5V, 12V" so am assuming they mean what they're saying, another 'NO'. (can someone verify it really _does_ draw from the 5v please?)
- Pumps draw from 12v and Gd only (i use Varios), so that's one 'YES'.
Not good enough..

If anyone has any ideas, shoot 
* What i'm thinking of doing unless someone has a better idea: XSPC's fan hubs (i have the V2 version, which to my understanding adds nothing but an LED that i had to paint black..) only draw from the 12V as far as i can tell; checked the PCB, i only see traces 'leaving' the 12V line. Except they use SATA for power. So i buy more of these, and since i only need 12v and GD, i use my custom cables here, except they terminate in a SATA plug now. This way i have enough for everything.
Link for said hubs, splitters, whatever the term is: http://www.xs-pc.com/fans-radiator-accessories/8-way-pwm-splitter-hub-sata-powered
** btw, finding proper SATA plugs in the EU at least is a royal pain. Only place i found is eBay, Brit seller, ridiculous pricing as its in Sterling. Nowhere else that i know of, not for retail; wholesale sure, but i don't need 1,000 ^^


----------



## skupples

I'm in the same situation. I purchased the super cheep BP PWM Adapters that run off of SATA & thus ran out of sata before being able to connect all drives.

also - i can't get a proper PWM signal from the weird 2 pin PWM cable that comes off the board.


----------



## Aenra

What board? :S

* It's not about cheap or expensive, it's about literally not having enough plugs. I use some sound equipment, i need molexes (keep thinking molasses) for more than the 'usual'. And i don't want to rig two PSUs, bad enough i need to power sound equipment from a PC..

** It's late and i'm tired.. if you meant signal from the splitter, that's 99% due to the number of fans you've attached to it; start taking them out until you can drive the remaining ones properly. The alternative, and extremely unlikely, is that the PCB itself draws from more than one tach; very unlikely.
(i think i warned you about this in advance, lol; you told me and i quote "no, it's fine")


----------



## skupples

its the bitspower SATA PWM splitter. You've just gotta be careful when running the PWM/RPM signal wire, as it draws power from SATA, & signal from a 2 pin cable.


----------



## looniam

IT Diva said:


> Got burnt out building custom PCs and needed something with a much more visceral reward . . . .


but can it play crysis? 




i'll see myself out now.


----------



## iamjanco

IT Diva said:


> Got burnt out building custom PCs and needed something with a much more visceral reward . . . .


and runnin' a Holley 4 barrel on top of Edelbrock at that. She's going to be thirsty...

Ah, the *good 'ole days*.


----------



## broodro0ster

Aenra said:


> My plans have been foiled! I don't have enough molexes for everything, lol.. is 'molexes' a term? And does poetic license count for anything?
> To explain. Original plan was to take the 4 'free' "GPU" plugs from my PSU, make my own cables that take 12v and Gd and end in a Molex header; problem solved.
> 
> - Except the Aquaero draws 5v from the Molex, so that's one 'NO'. (confirmed)
> - The Quadro says in the product page that "supply: 5V, 12V" so am assuming they mean what they're saying, another 'NO'. (can someone verify it really _does_ draw from the 5v please?)
> - Pumps draw from 12v and Gd only (i use Varios), so that's one 'YES'.
> Not good enough..
> 
> If anyone has any ideas, shoot
> * What i'm thinking of doing unless someone has a better idea: XSPC's fan hubs (i have the V2 version, which to my understanding adds nothing but an LED that i had to paint black..) only draw from the 12V as far as i can tell; checked the PCB, i only see traces 'leaving' the 12V line. Except they use SATA for power. So i buy more of these, and since i only need 12v and GD, i use my custom cables here, except they terminate in a SATA plug now. This way i have enough for everything.
> Link for said hubs, splitters, whatever the term is: http://www.xs-pc.com/fans-radiator-accessories/8-way-pwm-splitter-hub-sata-powered
> ** btw, finding proper SATA plugs in the EU at least is a royal pain. Only place i found is eBay, Brit seller, ridiculous pricing as its in Sterling. Nowhere else that i know of, not for retail; wholesale sure, but i don't need 1,000 ^^


Why not get some Molex splitters? Or make your own Molex splitters/extensions?


----------



## Aenra

broodro0ster said:


> Why not get some Molex splitters? Or make your own Molex splitters/extensions?


Wattage is why, unfortunately. When capped, it's capped.
Specs are something i adher to; most of the PC industry doesn't as i've recently come to understand, most of the users don't either, but that's O.K., to each their own; i personally do


----------



## Leonko

Aenra said:


> My plans have been foiled! I don't have enough molexes for everything, lol.. is 'molexes' a term? And does poetic license count for anything?
> To explain. Original plan was to take the 4 'free' "GPU" plugs from my PSU, make my own cables that take 12v and Gd and end in a Molex header; problem solved.
> 
> - Except the Aquaero draws 5v from the Molex, so that's one 'NO'. (confirmed)


what the problem to make your own 6/8pin to molex connectors ?


----------



## IT Diva

looniam said:


> but can it play crysis?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> i'll see myself out now.




It's a 632 cu in / 840 hp big block Chevy motor in a 1900 pound car . . . . who cares if it can play Crysis . . . . or anything else for that matter


----------



## skupples

I hope it’s gotta wheelie bar 😄

I've ran 50 AP15s + 2 DDC (externally powered though) from my AQ6, n its temp barely went up.


----------



## broodro0ster

Aenra said:


> Wattage is why, unfortunately. When capped, it's capped.
> Specs are something i adher to; most of the PC industry doesn't as i've recently come to understand, most of the users don't either, but that's O.K., to each their own; i personally do


I don't what else you're powering with the molexes, but my 9 fans draw 10W in total from the Aquaero and the device doesn't need a lot of power to run. Let's say 20W in total. If you're just powering 1 or 2 D5's with the molexes, you're totally fine.


----------



## Aenra

broodro0ster said:


> you're totally fine


I tend to go on and on (so as to provide a clear picture) which tends to result in wall-o-texts; so in my effort to avoid that... 

It's professional/proprietary in one instance sound-related equipment; reading, analysis and processing (one involves proper fourier sequences, can be very CP/GPGP-U taxing). On top of that, this machine needs to run 24/7. No offense to anyone feeling targetted by my next comment, but i'm not building rigs so as to browse media channels or take screenshots of benchmarks to post in internet forums. Different requirements 
So i need be 101% certain it can really go on and on, loads notwithstanding. With the total power calculated, i exceed specs and then some, so obviously not risking it, hence my looking for alternatives.

One thing i could do and solve it all just like that, is use the AQ6XT not just as a controller, but also as a power source for all my fans. Except i'd then need to buy Splitty9s as well, lol.. which OK, per couple they're about 50euro shipping included.. say.. fine, really.
Money aside then, we open up a new can of worms..
- i've never used them before, have heard folks having issues and the solutions they 'found' are very, very not to my liking.
- beyond a point, am not helping myself, am actually making my life complicated. Just how many more devices connecting to devices already connected to yet more devices should one live up with? 
- i'll be using NF-F12 iPPCs, the 3K rpm variant, for everything. If, if, i go the above route, i'm not sure if i can run 6 of them per Splitty (will each Splitty9 be able to pulse drive 6 properly?) and i'd need to. One AQ6 channel i need reserved, got 3 available. So it must be 6 of those beasts per Splitty.

See what i mean? It gets complicated, lol
And thanks for replying by the way 

* Also no offense to AQ or Shoggy in particular, but i do find that quite often, they really _do_ tend to over-complicate things; now whether we (should) mind or not, that's a different story, but.. truth be told ^^


----------



## skupples

i don't think you'd have any issue, even if drawing the power from the unit itself. Like I said, 50 AP15s via 3 channels, 5 years straight, zero issues.

there's also more than one external power delivery solution than just the splitty.


----------



## Aenra

skupples said:


> there's also more than one external power delivery solution than just the splitty


Examples?
Keeping in mind that i'm out of molexes mind ^^


----------



## Leonko

i have to ask one more time then


Aenra said:


> My plans have been foiled! I don't have enough molexes for everything, lol.. is 'molexes' a term? And does poetic license count for anything?
> To explain. Original plan was to take the 4 'free' "GPU" plugs from my PSU, make my own cables that take 12v and Gd and end in a Molex header; problem solved.
> 
> - Except the Aquaero draws 5v from the Molex, so that's one 'NO'. (confirmed)


whats the problem to make your own 6/8pin to molex connectors ? 

I dont think you really understand where 5V in molex connection come from...

also i would like to post this






... second time, i dont think you really understand AQ power capabilities and how much 2,5A per channel is ... this is, i think, your problem,... lack of knowledge


----------



## Aenra

Leonko said:


> i have to ask one more time thenwhats the problem to make your own 6/8pin to molex connectors


Attention deficit and/or related disorders are not my expertise, but to answer in short, the reply to your question was literally in the post right above yours. Yet here you are, asking the same thing; again.
Forums. reading comprehension. They go together.

As to the latter, again, reading comprehension. I list the reasons, the procedure required and my remarks/worries one by one. Unlike you, i can also read just fine, so if that assists, yes, am fully aware of the AQ6's 2.5 Amps per channel limitation. Or the Splitty9's 5 Amp limitation come to that. Had you paid the slightest of attention however, you might have gleaned that the issues lie elsewhere.

There's always Youtube you know.. all those images!


----------



## Shawnb99

Aenra said:


> I tend to go on and on (so as to provide a clear picture) which tends to result in wall-o-texts; so in my effort to avoid that...
> 
> It's professional/proprietary in one instance sound-related equipment; reading, analysis and processing (one involves proper fourier sequences, can be very CP/GPGP-U taxing). On top of that, this machine needs to run 24/7. No offense to anyone feeling targetted by my next comment, but i'm not building rigs so as to browse media channels or take screenshots of benchmarks to post in internet forums. Different requirements
> So i need be 101% certain it can really go on and on, loads notwithstanding. With the total power calculated, i exceed specs and then some, so obviously not risking it, hence my looking for alternatives.
> 
> One thing i could do and solve it all just like that, is use the AQ6XT not just as a controller, but also as a power source for all my fans. Except i'd then need to buy Splitty9s as well, lol.. which OK, per couple they're about 50euro shipping included.. say.. fine, really.
> Money aside then, we open up a new can of worms..
> - i've never used them before, have heard folks having issues and the solutions they 'found' are very, very not to my liking.
> - beyond a point, am not helping myself, am actually making my life complicated. Just how many more devices connecting to devices already connected to yet more devices should one live up with?
> - i'll be using NF-F12 iPPCs, the 3K rpm variant, for everything. If, if, i go the above route, i'm not sure if i can run 6 of them per Splitty (will each Splitty9 be able to pulse drive 6 properly?) and i'd need to. One AQ6 channel i need reserved, got 3 available. So it must be 6 of those beasts per Splitty.
> 
> See what i mean? It gets complicated, lol
> And thanks for replying by the way
> 
> * Also no offense to AQ or Shoggy in particular, but i do find that quite often, they really _do_ tend to over-complicate things; now whether we (should) mind or not, that's a different story, but.. truth be told ^^




If you need more channels then add a Quadro or two. That should allow you to spit the fans up more if 6 is in fact to much for each Splitty.


What issues have you heard about and what solutions?


----------



## Leonko

Aenra said:


> Attention deficit and/or related disorders are not my expertise, but to answer in short, the reply to your question was literally in the post right above yours.


i can read, and im fully aware of your problem. Im not talking about molex extensions. Im talking about making your owm 8/6pin to molex cables which gives you your more desirable power. Your problem is here : "make my own cables that take 12v and Gd and end in a Molex header" and that you think you are right. But you are obviously wrong and what is worst, you dont want to see it. 5V is not a problem here. DO YOU UNDERSTAND ? dont you have 8/6 pin connectors left ?


----------



## war4peace

Aenra said:


> Wattage is why, unfortunately. When capped, it's capped.
> Specs are something i adher to; most of the PC industry doesn't as i've recently come to understand, most of the users don't either, but that's O.K., to each their own; i personally do


Do as I did: go Dual-PSU.
You can even pick an SFX PSU which is smaller size.


----------



## broodro0ster

Aenra said:


> I tend to go on and on (so as to provide a clear picture) which tends to result in wall-o-texts; so in my effort to avoid that...
> 
> It's professional/proprietary in one instance sound-related equipment; reading, analysis and processing (one involves proper fourier sequences, can be very CP/GPGP-U taxing). On top of that, this machine needs to run 24/7. No offense to anyone feeling targetted by my next comment, but i'm not building rigs so as to browse media channels or take screenshots of benchmarks to post in internet forums. Different requirements
> So i need be 101% certain it can really go on and on, loads notwithstanding. With the total power calculated, i exceed specs and then some, so obviously not risking it, hence my looking for alternatives.
> 
> One thing i could do and solve it all just like that, is use the AQ6XT not just as a controller, but also as a power source for all my fans. Except i'd then need to buy Splitty9s as well, lol.. which OK, per couple they're about 50euro shipping included.. say.. fine, really.
> Money aside then, we open up a new can of worms..
> - i've never used them before, have heard folks having issues and the solutions they 'found' are very, very not to my liking.
> - beyond a point, am not helping myself, am actually making my life complicated. Just how many more devices connecting to devices already connected to yet more devices should one live up with?
> - i'll be using NF-F12 iPPCs, the 3K rpm variant, for everything. If, if, i go the above route, i'm not sure if i can run 6 of them per Splitty (will each Splitty9 be able to pulse drive 6 properly?) and i'd need to. One AQ6 channel i need reserved, got 3 available. So it must be 6 of those beasts per Splitty.
> 
> See what i mean? It gets complicated, lol
> And thanks for replying by the way
> 
> * Also no offense to AQ or Shoggy in particular, but i do find that quite often, they really _do_ tend to over-complicate things; now whether we (should) mind or not, that's a different story, but.. truth be told ^^


If it's a professional machine that should be within specs and 110% reliable, you need to go out and buy an new, better rate PSU with more molexes. This is the only option if you want to stay within spec. 

Aside from that, a Splitty 9 is not needed to power the fans. You can get fan splitters and connected you fans to it. As long as you not exceeding 36W per channel, it's not a problem. I don't know how much power your fans will use, but I'm seeing 3.4W for 3 fans (so 1.13W per fan) at full speed (1750rpm). If if you fans draw 5 times what my fans need, you're still within spec of the Aquaero.


----------



## Aenra

Shawnb99 said:


> If you need more channels then add a Quadro or two


Thanks for posting;
As mentioned, i'm out of molexes! Due to actual wattage capping, not due to lacking extra headers; and the Quadros draw both from the 12V and the 5V rail, so i need a molex to run them unfortunately..
I own two of them, lol, just can't use them!



war4peace said:


> Do as I did: go Dual-PSU


I fear of the consequences; don't know if we've had any improvement in this lately, but way it would work in the past at least, not very optimal in terms of signal integrity; as mentioned, given the specific hardware here, i've written it off as an option.
(have not the knowledge to verify the extent of this if it occurs [it always comes back to electronics damn it, lol] and therefore have not the capacity to mitigate or factor it in, results-wise)
But thanks for chipping in 

It's always like that isn't it.. you think you have it all figured out and then life happens!
/Monty Pythons

* if you have the inclination, could you relate your experiences? With using dual PSUs? I'd be very interested.

@*broodro0ster* regarding fans in specific, it's not a matter of wattage; as i explained, i've read of various issues people have had driving fans with the Splittys, some of which are members here, ie not clueless people. As i do not have any to test this myself, with _my_ fans in specific, i can only ask.
(to recap, i've only an issue with molexes; i'm caping those [specs-wise], so any additional wattage needs come from separate source, hence my saying i may as well use PSU headers that are currently not plugged into anything. It's also 'two' pieces of hardware, not a whole machine. I'm simply installing them inside a rig i'll be building, as i've got the space for them; beats having them lying on a desk. Thank you Caselabs, you're sorely missed)

Given my only two options as i see them (use my existing XSPC hubs with custom cables drawing from PCIE plugs but terminating in SATA, _or_ buy 3 Splitty9s and hope they work with 6 3K NF-F12 iPPCs each), am choosing the former.
Cheaper and guaranteed, as i've run said splitters/hubs before, _with_ said fans, and have not had any issues.

And many thanks again for everyone's time 
Am newer than most of you in this, i wanted to ask in case someone had a solution i'd not considered. Much obliged for your time :thumb:


----------



## war4peace

Aenra said:


> I fear of the consequences; don't know if we've had any improvement in this lately, but way it would work in the past at least, not very optimal in terms of signal integrity; as mentioned, given the specific hardware here, i've written it off as an option.
> (have not the knowledge to verify the extent of this if it occurs [it always comes back to electronics damn it, lol] and therefore have not the capacity to mitigate or factor it in, results-wise)
> But thanks for chipping in


Well based on own experience, I've been using dual-PSU for over a year now, with zero side effects. One is used exclusively for the 2x 1080 Tis in SLI, and the other for everything else. This leaves me with ample amount of connectors for anything I wish to throw at the build.
The PSUs are different brands and power specs: a Super Flower Leadex Gold 750W for the machine except GPUs and a Corsair AX860 for the GPUs only. No problems whatsoever.


----------



## Aenra

Follow up.. do you use any relay alarms on your Aquaero and if so, how have you sorted them?
(again academically, just curious regarding power ups/downs and any delays in between the PSUs thereof)


----------



## Shawnb99

Aenra said:


> Thanks for posting;
> As mentioned, i'm out of molexes! Due to actual wattage capping, not due to lacking extra headers; and the Quadros draw both from the 12V and the 5V rail, so i need a molex to run them unfortunately..
> I own two of them, lol, just can't use them!
> 
> 
> 
> I fear of the consequences; don't know if we've had any improvement in this lately, but way it would work in the past at least, not very optimal in terms of signal integrity; as mentioned, given the specific hardware here, i've written it off as an option.
> (have not the knowledge to verify the extent of this if it occurs [it always comes back to electronics damn it, lol] and therefore have not the capacity to mitigate or factor it in, results-wise)
> But thanks for chipping in
> 
> It's always like that isn't it.. you think you have it all figured out and then life happens!
> /Monty Pythons
> 
> * if you have the inclination, could you relate your experiences? With using dual PSUs? I'd be very interested.
> 
> @*broodro0ster* regarding fans in specific, it's not a matter of wattage; as i explained, i've read of various issues people have had driving fans with the Splittys, some of which are members here, ie not clueless people. As i do not have any to test this myself, with _my_ fans in specific, i can only ask.
> (to recap, i've only an issue with molexes; i'm caping those [specs-wise], so any additional wattage needs come from separate source, hence my saying i may as well use PSU headers that are currently not plugged into anything. It's also 'two' pieces of hardware, not a whole machine. I'm simply installing them inside a rig i'll be building, as i've got the space for them; beats having them lying on a desk. Thank you Caselabs, you're sorely missed)
> 
> Given my only two options as i see them (use my existing XSPC hubs with custom cables drawing from PCIE plugs but terminating in SATA, _or_ buy 3 Splitty9s and hope they work with 6 3K NF-F12 iPPCs each), am choosing the former.
> Cheaper and guaranteed, as i've run said splitters/hubs before, _with_ said fans, and have not had any issues.
> 
> And many thanks again for everyone's time
> Am newer than most of you in this, i wanted to ask in case someone had a solution i'd not considered. Much obliged for your time :thumb:






As far I understand it If the issue is you at max wattage then the only option is a second PSU. 
Adding adapters or more moles won’t help if you running against the wattage cap for that rail.


----------



## broodro0ster

Aenra said:


> Thanks for posting;
> As mentioned, i'm out of molexes! Due to actual wattage capping, not due to lacking extra headers; and the Quadros draw both from the 12V and the 5V rail, so i need a molex to run them unfortunately..
> I own two of them, lol, just can't use them!
> 
> 
> 
> I fear of the consequences; don't know if we've had any improvement in this lately, but way it would work in the past at least, not very optimal in terms of signal integrity; as mentioned, given the specific hardware here, i've written it off as an option.
> (have not the knowledge to verify the extent of this if it occurs [it always comes back to electronics damn it, lol] and therefore have not the capacity to mitigate or factor it in, results-wise)
> But thanks for chipping in
> 
> It's always like that isn't it.. you think you have it all figured out and then life happens!
> /Monty Pythons
> 
> * if you have the inclination, could you relate your experiences? With using dual PSUs? I'd be very interested.
> 
> @*broodro0ster* regarding fans in specific, it's not a matter of wattage; as i explained, i've read of various issues people have had driving fans with the Splittys, some of which are members here, ie not clueless people. As i do not have any to test this myself, with _my_ fans in specific, i can only ask.



I wasn’t talking about the Splitty9, but just simple PWM splitters. You can connect those to your Quadro or Aquaero and connect the fans to them. That’s how I connected my 8 fans to 3 headers.


----------



## Leonko

Aenra said:


> Thanks for posting;
> As mentioned, i'm out of molexes! Due to actual wattage capping, not due to lacking extra headers; and the Quadros draw both from the 12V and the 5V rail, so i need a molex to run them unfortunately..
> I own two of them, lol, just can't use them!


LOOL. if someone born stupid, stays stupid ... still talking same ***** ...


----------



## Aenra

Shawnb99 said:


> Adding adapters or more moles won’t help if you running against the wattage cap for that rail.


Yeap, that's what i've been saying.



broodro0ster said:


> I wasn’t talking about the Splitty9, but just simple PWM splitters


Oh, fair enough then


----------



## war4peace

Aenra said:


> Follow up.. do you use any relay alarms on your Aquaero and if so, how have you sorted them?
> (again academically, just curious regarding power ups/downs and any delays in between the PSUs thereof)


Nope, no relay alarms. But it doesn't matter, since I use a dual-PSU adapter, namely this one. So everything is controlled with one hardware switch, both PSUs start at the same time. I have also added the Silverstone ES02-USB remote control to the build and the whole assemble works flawlessly.


----------



## Aenra

war4peace said:


> Nope, no relay alarms. But it doesn't matter, since I use a dual-PSU adapter, namely this one. So everything is controlled with one hardware switch, both PSUs start at the same time. I have also added the Silverstone ES02-USB remote control to the build and the whole assemble works flawlessly.


Ok, thanks for sharing man, appreciate it.
While not an option for this build, it's something i've considered a number of times; feels kinda dumb, doesn't it, needing a 1600W PSU for its connectors rather than its juice? :kookoo:
(a saner person would perhaps take this as a hint, lol, but why i would i do that!)

* not sure why you want that remote though? Is it a mining rig?

And since i'm at it again, to the genius calling me names above;
Most people you see, they can only think so much, so close to the surface; being used to their own (lack of) potential however, they cannot but equate their own prowess to that of everyone else's; put plainly, eventually their own limits have become those of others. Once there, anything clashing with their own views is often deemed as "dumb", "unintelligent", "naive" and so on. After all, if _they_ can't see it, why it cannot exist, now can it...
So since you've deemed it necessary to grace us with both your presence and insightful commentary, and since we appear incapable of escaping it, let me at least allow you your victory, as it seems to be of import to you.
- Either you do not grasp what is meant by 12 and 5 V rails, in which case by all means, it's a mere Googleing away.
- Or, and i'm willing to place you in this category a priori, you think i'm a SATA-to-Molex adapter away from getting everything done and i'm too "dumb" to realise it. With the danger of repeating myself, i would once again tell you to read first and post second; i'm not bothering people so as to have the 'same' only in a 'different' manner, i'm bothering people in the off chance i could have had _more_. In even plainer an explanation then: I already have SATA fan hubs; i already have SATA cables, custom ones too, drawing from unused PSU slots (what better, as i also have HDDs i need to power from SATA, many in fact). Why would i buy/make newer cables (SATA-to-Molex) only so as to have the same controlling options? Because you see, once you use a SATA adapter to terminate to a Molex, your new cap is now the SATA cap, as per the SATA_ specs_, do you understand? Goodbye high Wattage. And since i already _have_ SATA-cap/specced fan hubs.. again, why would i go into all that trouble to have the 'same', only different'?

Think more, post less; criticise others even less often. 

Once again, my sincere thanks to everyone for their help; passed some rep around, least i can do for your trouble.


----------



## iamjanco

Shawnb99 said:


> I can wait as long as you need. I’ll figure something out to get my system working in the mean time. Thank you again for this.


...that was a bear. Found the 450 tube, but not the strut, but you should be able to reuse your original strut. If you still want it, pm me your mailing address, and I'll box it up and figure out what postage is to you:









If I do come across the strut, I'll send it as well, but I'm pretty much done searching for it for now. It's likely hiding under something, or in a box that's in a box that's in a box.


----------



## Shawnb99

iamjanco said:


> ...that was a bear. Found the 450 tube, but not the strut, but you should be able to reuse your original strut. If you still want it, pm me your mailing address, and I'll box it up and figure out what postage is to you:
> 
> 
> 
> View attachment 256814
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If I do come across the strut, I'll send it as well, but I'm pretty much done searching for it for now. It's likely hiding under something, or in a box that's in a box that's in a box.




Omg thank you very much. Sending you a PM now. I gave the strut I just need the glass.

Thanks again.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## war4peace

Aenra said:


> Ok, thanks for sharing man, appreciate it.
> While not an option for this build, it's something i've considered a number of times; feels kinda dumb, doesn't it, needing a 1600W PSU for its connectors rather than its juice? :kookoo:
> (a saner person would perhaps take this as a hint, lol, but why i would i do that!)
> 
> * not sure why you want that remote though? Is it a mining rig?


When I got my second GPU, I only had the 750W PSU and I was looking for a single PSU 1200W or higher to replace it. Unfortunately it was during the mining boom, when PSU prices had skyrocketed and they were all insanely expensive. 450 dollars for a 1600W PSU was something I could not accept, not that I couldn't afford it but it was a matter of principle. So I bought the 860W PSU for 150 dollars and slaved it to the original one. Fortunately, my current case (which I will switch for a custom one I am designing right now) has room for two ATX PSUs.
As for the remote, my upcoming build will have no power/reset switches, they will be replaced by this remote, so I installed the remote in my current build to see how it behaves. It works fine, with one caveat (and maybe that's platform related): if I unplug the machine from power completely and plug it back in, I can't start the machine through the remote, I need to manually press the hardware power switch. I didn't investigate more closely why this happen, not a priority right now, but will take a close look and troubleshoot with my next build.

(unrelated: look out for my 3D designs of custom reservoir, case and PSU holder, which I will soon upload in a dedicated build thread)


----------



## Aenra

war4peace said:


> I can't start the machine through the remote)


You did say not a priority, but as the thought came up.. that thing draws from the board, right? So with no "standby" power available (there are three states in this), would it not make sense? Easily tested, if your mobo allows for it, disable standby/USB "charging mode" (typically, that's your 5V from your ATX) and see if you get the same symptom with a software shutdown? There's also Windows "smart boot.. smart shutdown..?" or whatever they call it, which i disable by default personally, ie not much experience with it; but you may need to disable that too prior to testing this out. You can do this from: Control Panel -> Power ->Choose what the power button does (left tab) -> Show settings that are currently unavailable.

As to custom cases, am always interested in those 

* and on an Aquaero level of discussion, this is one of many reasons why i don't want it connected to a mobo 24/7. Many trends that are wrong in this industry, it happens unfortunately; doesn't mean we should follow them just because they exist. This "standby" mode (which, to make it even worse, depending on the manufacturer can mean different things) is just.. it should never have been. I'd much prefer it if they kept it the way it was with AQ5; unless i'm mistaken, it had a separate and optional standby power cable; _that_'s the right way to go about it and never mind what the "trend" is today.


----------



## war4peace

The device is powered through USB, but it's also plugged into a Hubby7. I will take a look at both the hardware connectivity and the UEFI, however I will replace the motherboard and CPU sometime in the future, tentatively autumn (going to get a Threadripper but waiting for TR3).
With the software shutdown, the device powers up the machine fine. It only fails to respond when I unplug the power cable, then plug it back again.


----------



## Aenra

Yeah i got it, makes perfect sense too 
It's why i said the easiest way to 'try' this is to disable all standby mode(s); as it is now, long as your PC's plugged in, there's a 5V rail feeding your motherboard constantly. So naturally, once you kill it from the plug, no juice going to the Silverstone, so no response.


----------



## zeroibis

Aenra said:


> Wattage is why, unfortunately. When capped, it's capped.
> Specs are something i adher to; most of the PC industry doesn't as i've recently come to understand, most of the users don't either, but that's O.K., to each their own; i personally do



What you mean those cables/connectors are not rated for unlimited wattage!


You know what they say, when the amps get to high on the rail just cool that sucker down and overclock or maybe it was overload your power supply, I mean what can go wrong... lol


----------



## skupples

war4peace said:


> Do as I did: go Dual-PSU.
> You can even pick an SFX PSU which is smaller size.


I did this for many many years too.

One "small" PSU for the board, & system, one LARGE PSU for the GPU section.

luckily I've gotten over buying 3-4 GPUs at a time. Thus I've retired to just my EVGA 1300.


----------



## Aenra

zeroibis said:


> What you mean those cables/connectors are not rated for unlimited wattage!


:cheers:


----------



## war4peace

Aenra said:


> As to custom cases, am always interested in those


There you go.
/offtopic


----------



## Shawnb99

To extend a Calitemp sensor is just a 4 pin cable or do I need a specific cable?
Same question to extend an Aquabus cable will any 4 pin do?


----------



## Aenra

Shawnb99 said:


> To extend a Calitemp sensor is just a 4 pin cable or do I need a specific cable?
> Same question to extend an Aquabus cable will any 4 pin do?


Don't have/use calitemps, so cannot reply as to that, though you can easily find that out on your own by simply downloading the relevant manual: https://aquacomputer.de/handbuecher...mputer/downloads/manuals/calitemp_english.pdf
As to Aquabus cables, same procedure you could have followed, though to spare you the time, yeah, any fan 4pin will do


----------



## Leonko

Shawnb99 said:


> To extend a Calitemp sensor is just a 4 pin cable or do I need a specific cable?
> Same question to extend an Aquabus cable will any 4 pin do?


they are classic 4pins. Aquacomputer only gave them special name.


----------



## Shawnb99

Thanks I kinda thought so.


----------



## GTXJackBauer

Yes, 4-pin PWM cables will do fine.


----------



## Syberon

Every time when connected to PowerAdjust 3 fans spins up it starts at full voltage fot 10 seconds. My PowerAdjust 3 connected to Aquaero 6LT by aquabus and connected by USB with same time. I have disabled the start boost in PowerAdjust Fan tab and in Aquaero Fans tab but it doesn't helps - fan spins up at full speed for 10 seconds even is start boost disabled. I don't want to hear this loud sound at every PC start. All my another fans, connected to Aquaero 6 starts normally with 600rpm.



How to setup PowerAdjust not to use StartBoost and spins up at 33% like my other fans?


----------



## VeritronX

So.. what wattage limit are you hitting exactly? the controllers don't need much power on their own to give out the PWM signal, and the power to the fans is just 12v so you could power them from a gpu plug instead with some gpu to 12v molex to pwm splitter cable adaptation. I've seen cables that power many pwm fans from a molex and have a seperate connector for the pwm and rpm signals before.


----------



## broodro0ster

Syberon said:


> Every time when connected to PowerAdjust 3 fans spins up it starts at full voltage fot 10 seconds. My PowerAdjust 3 connected to Aquaero 6LT by aquabus and connected by USB with same time. I have disabled the start boost in PowerAdjust Fan tab and in Aquaero Fans tab but it doesn't helps - fan spins up at full speed for 10 seconds even is start boost disabled. I don't want to hear this loud sound at every PC start. All my another fans, connected to Aquaero 6 starts normally with 600rpm.
> 
> 
> 
> How to setup PowerAdjust not to use StartBoost and spins up at 33% like my other fans?


Hmm, strange. Try setting startboost to 33% then. Does that work?


----------



## Syberon

broodro0ster said:


> Hmm, strange. Try setting startboost to 33% then. Does that work?


Already tried to change startboost power or duration - no effect. No matter that i set to startboost parameters it always goes to 100% during first 10 second after start.


----------



## Aenra

Have you tried what dundys' suggested to you in the AC's forums?
It's good advice and you should follow it for everything Aquabus-aware. Aquasuite should be last, after each component has been set up on its own (as in separately, standalone; not Aquaero integrated)


----------



## Syberon

Aenra said:


> Have you tried what dundys' suggested to you in the AC's forums?
> It's good advice and you should follow it for everything Aquabus-aware. Aquasuite should be last, after each component has been set up on its own (as in separately, standalone; not Aquaero integrated)


Thanks. I doesn't saw second answer in AC forum. Now i tried that dundy suggest and it helped.


----------



## war4peace

I have a question regarding Aquaero's relay function, which I never used yet.
Recently bought a slow-rotating 12VDC motor which I will use for my future steampunk project. I have connected it directly to a PSU for testing purpose ad it works, however when I shut down my PSU, the motor continues drawing current from the 12VDC rail until the PSU capacitors empty, and then the PSU won't start anymore unless unplugged from power for a long time (I had to leave it unplugged overnight).
So I am hoping to use Aquaero's relay function to cut the power from the motor as soon as the PC is shutdown. How could I achieve that?


----------



## Shawnb99

The Pressure equalisation membrane makes leak testing by air impossible?


----------



## Barefooter

Shawnb99 said:


> The Pressure equalisation membrane makes leak testing by air impossible?


Take it out and put a stop plug there until your testing is done.


----------



## Shawnb99

Barefooter said:


> Take it out and put a stop plug there until your testing is done.




Thanks. That’s what I’m going to do.


----------



## Aenra

Probably a dumb question, but.. is there any way to check when your AQ was manufactured?


----------



## skupples

pretty sure I saw that info when I was renewing my license on their site.


----------



## Cyber Locc

Hey guys anyone have an idea how to semi easily do something like this? Or someone that can make it? 

https://scontent-ort2-2.cdninstagra...n.jpg?_nc_ht=scontent-ort2-2.cdninstagram.com

I would prefer Aluminum, but settle for acrylic if there is something like this already sold.

Or if anyone has devised a way to remotely locate the Screen that would be even better. Doesn't have to be much, but a few inches would be amazing.

Edit: I found this, https://m.imgur.com/gallery/nUxV2

Down in the log, there is pics. He soldered a ribbon cable from the Board to the Screen. I suck at soldering, I can't see the pin setup in there, but any chance of anyone knowing anyone how could make a cable like that? I'll pay 🙂.


----------



## war4peace

In case other people are interested and don't want to go theorugh the whole list of pictures, here is the one with the soldering:


----------



## skupples

Did AC end up not releasing their own ribbon exentions, or are you just thrifty?

I tried building one when the A6xt first released, cuz I didn't have room for it in my 900D bay, but failed miserably.


----------



## Shawnb99

Cyber Locc said:


> Hey guys anyone have an idea how to semi easily do something like this? Or someone that can make it?
> 
> https://scontent-ort2-2.cdninstagra...n.jpg?_nc_ht=scontent-ort2-2.cdninstagram.com
> 
> I would prefer Aluminum, but settle for acrylic if there is something like this already sold.
> 
> Or if anyone has devised a way to remotely locate the Screen that would be even better. Doesn't have to be much, but a few inches would be amazing.
> 
> Edit: I found this, https://m.imgur.com/gallery/nUxV2
> 
> Down in the log, there is pics. He soldered a ribbon cable from the Board to the Screen. I suck at soldering, I can't see the pin setup in there, but any chance of anyone knowing anyone how could make a cable like that? I'll pay ????.




There appears to be a extension ribbon but it doesn’t appear as an accessory for the Aquaero but rather the Giant series external radiators.

I found this via google in the AC forums

https://forum.aquacomputer.de/weite...108570-extension-cable-for-aquaero-6-display/

I don’t see the ribbon as an optional accessory but the thread mentions to contact AC and that the person was able to get one.


----------



## Cyber Locc

war4peace said:


> In case other people are interested and don't want to go theorugh the whole list of pictures, here is the one with the soldering:


Ya sorry was on phone, I tried to do that, but was having issues lol.



Shawnb99 said:


> Cyber Locc said:
> 
> 
> 
> Hey guys anyone have an idea how to semi easily do something like this? Or someone that can make it?
> 
> https://scontent-ort2-2.cdninstagra...n.jpg?_nc_ht=scontent-ort2-2.cdninstagram.com
> 
> I would prefer Aluminum, but settle for acrylic if there is something like this already sold.
> 
> Or if anyone has devised a way to remotely locate the Screen that would be even better. Doesn't have to be much, but a few inches would be amazing.
> 
> Edit: I found this, https://m.imgur.com/gallery/nUxV2
> 
> Down in the log, there is pics. He soldered a ribbon cable from the Board to the Screen. I suck at soldering, I can't see the pin setup in there, but any chance of anyone knowing anyone how could make a cable like that? I'll pay ????.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There appears to be a extension ribbon but it doesn’t appear as an accessory for the Aquaero but rather the Giant series external radiators.
> 
> I found this via google in the AC forums
> 
> https://forum.aquacomputer.de/weite...108570-extension-cable-for-aquaero-6-display/
> 
> I don’t see the ribbon as an optional accessory but the thread mentions to contact AC and that the person was able to get one.
Click to expand...

So I didn't see that post, but after posting last night I went through this thread from page 1 to like 65 lol. And I seen a few people talk about making cables and never any outcomes 😞 however I also seen shoggy mention that cable they made. 

I wrote a ticket asking about purchase. I will update how it goes, wish me luck 🙂.


----------



## Ashcroft

Syberon said:


> Every time when connected to PowerAdjust 3 fans spins up it starts at full voltage fot 10 seconds. My PowerAdjust 3 connected to Aquaero 6LT by aquabus and connected by USB with same time. I have disabled the start boost in PowerAdjust Fan tab and in Aquaero Fans tab but it doesn't helps - fan spins up at full speed for 10 seconds even is start boost disabled. I don't want to hear this loud sound at every PC start. All my another fans, connected to Aquaero 6 starts normally with 600rpm.
> 
> 
> 
> How to setup PowerAdjust not to use StartBoost and spins up at 33% like my other fans?




Do you use the speed control function on the other fans? I've never really experimented with that mode but it may need to spin the fans to full speed to know their range of control. Power control might give you better control of the fans.


----------



## Cyber Locc

Hey guys sorry to bug again, but I had one more odd question lol. 

So has anyone found or made, some way to voltage control a 450s (24v D5 strong). 

I know about the Koolance boosters with a Knob, and am not sure if that's something that could ever be controlled by PWM or not, figured I would ask as I know the Aquatuning pump just uses a Digital Pot on a D5 vario, could the same be done for the boosters pot?


----------



## Cyber Locc

Scracth above, found another option.


----------



## Cyber Locc

Shawnb99 said:


> There appears to be a extension ribbon but it doesn’t appear as an accessory for the Aquaero but rather the Giant series external radiators.
> 
> I found this via google in the AC forums
> 
> https://forum.aquacomputer.de/weite...108570-extension-cable-for-aquaero-6-display/
> 
> I don’t see the ribbon as an optional accessory but the thread mentions to contact AC and that the person was able to get one.


An update on this, so I have now seen that thread along with a couple others. Yet I wrote AC over the weekend and they are telling me they do not sell it... First they asked me if I had a model number, and I told them no lol, and linked them that thread. 


So IDK, im not handy with solder, so if someone else could make one, or no AQ6 XT for me. My project is a test bench, I dont have drive bays, or a place to fit the AQ with the screen.

I have however wrote support back, as I have now seen that thread, and a couple other, they have sold these cables.


----------



## Shawnb99

Cyber Locc said:


> An update on this, so I have now seen that thread along with a couple others. Yet I wrote AC over the weekend and they are telling me they do not sell it... First they asked me if I had a model number, and I told them no lol, and linked them that thread.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So IDK, im not handy with solder, so if someone else could make one, or no AQ6 XT for me. My project is a test bench, I dont have drive bays, or a place to fit the AQ with the screen.
> 
> 
> 
> I have however wrote support back, as I have now seen that thread, and a couple other, they have sold these cables.




Hmm that’s odd. When I asked about that cable they sent me a quote on ordering it. Was priced at 25.13 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Cyber Locc

Shawnb99 said:


> Hmm that’s odd. When I asked about that cable they sent me a quote on ordering it. Was priced at 25.13
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Yep was my bad, I wrote Aquatunings support instead of Aquacomputer directly by mistake. I have made a new email to AC this time lol.


----------



## Shawnb99

Cyber Locc said:


> Yep was my bad, I wrote Aquatunings support instead of Aquacomputer directly by mistake. I have made a new email to AC this time lol.




Lol yes it does help if you contact the right support [emoji14]


----------



## Cyber Locc

Shawnb99 said:


> Lol yes it does help if you contact the right support [emoji14]


Yep got it now, its ordered, 35USD total for me shipped to the states, with the current conversion worth every penny .

No AQ6 yet, but soon, have to lay off spending for few weeks, and setup the entire AQ eco system so expensive lol.


----------



## LCRava

Cyber Locc said:


> Hey guys anyone have an idea how to semi easily do something like this? Or someone that can make it?
> 
> https://scontent-ort2-2.cdninstagra...n.jpg?_nc_ht=scontent-ort2-2.cdninstagram.com
> 
> I would prefer Aluminum, but settle for acrylic if there is something like this already sold.
> 
> Or if anyone has devised a way to remotely locate the Screen that would be even better. Doesn't have to be much, but a few inches would be amazing.
> 
> Edit: I found this, https://m.imgur.com/gallery/nUxV2
> 
> Down in the log, there is pics. He soldered a ribbon cable from the Board to the Screen. I suck at soldering, I can't see the pin setup in there, but any chance of anyone knowing anyone how could make a cable like that? I'll pay 🙂.


Hi guys. I am also looking for an horizontal incline mount for an AQ6 that would cover the connections in the back. My case is a Thermaltake LVL 20 XT that has no bays to mount the AQ6.

Thx for the help!


----------



## skupples

uhg, I always forget that mod parts company that caters towards the more obscure.

They started off with things like 900D motherboard shrouds, wth was their name...

or - finding a local company that'll print it for you. You've just gotta bring them the file most of the time, or pay them even more to design & print.

I ended up building one outta scrap from my 900D mobo shroud actually  

lots of clamping & gluing, & swearing.


----------



## war4peace

skupples said:


> uhg, I always forget that mod parts company that caters towards the more obscure.


Coldzero?


----------



## LCRava

war4peace said:


> Coldzero?


Thanks. I sent them an email, I’ll update here if I find a way to get it done.


----------



## skupples

that's the one.

Creating a head unit/shroud for it should be ezpz for them.


----------



## jsutter71

Anyone know if this D5 is beyond repair. Since it's the aquabus version I'm a reluctant since they are impossible to find now. I noticed 2 of my pumps, this one included were very sluggish. The first one was given new life after I resoldered the power wires to the PCB. This one was a failure. I took these pics with a Macro lens in order to show the fine details. As you see the power wire is removed and I made every attempt to remove the old solder. It kills me to just throw stuff away when 99% of the time I can repair it. Worse case I ordered a D5 next from Germany. I also scored 2 of the next gen Farbwerk controllers since they're now in stock. No more 4 pin connectors except for my luminous panel. Speaking of new equipment why doesn't any of the new equipment from Aquacomputer come with aquabus cables?


----------



## jsutter71

Followup question. Since I'm new to RGBpx type connectors and haven't yet physically seen one yet is their an adapter cable to connect a 4 pin cable to a RGBpx controller such as the new Farbwerks? My luminous panel has the 4 pin connector. Just a basic conversion cable other then the splitty3? Or are they easy to make? I've discovered that finding proper hardware to make your own case lighting cables is like finding a needle in a haystack. Or is the splitty3 going to be the best option?


----------



## Section31

jsutter71 said:


> Anyone know if this D5 is beyond repair. Since it's the aquabus version I'm a reluctant since they are impossible to find now. I noticed 2 of my pumps, this one included were very sluggish. The first one was given new life after I resoldered the power wires to the PCB. This one was a failure. I took these pics with a Macro lens in order to show the fine details. As you see the power wire is removed and I made every attempt to remove the old solder. It kills me to just throw stuff away when 99% of the time I can repair it. Worse case I ordered a D5 next from Germany. I also scored 2 of the next gen Farbwerk controllers since they're now in stock. No more 4 pin connectors except for my luminous panel. Speaking of new equipment why doesn't any of the new equipment from Aquacomputer come with aquabus cables?


I would order two of them as they are always out of stock. Also good to have one in case one you got is dead on arrival. I bought two initially (one for friend and one for me). Then i ordered another one (backup). Fortunate I did because when it came to install, one of them was dead on arrival.


----------



## Barefooter

Last weekend I was playing around with the Aqua Suite software and my Farbwerk. I wanted to save several different lighting schemes to different "saved profiles", and apparently the Farbwerk settings do not get saved in the profile, you have to actually go into the Farbwerk section and turn off or change the lighting manually. Am I missing something? I wanted to create a profile with the lighting turned off so I could easily change to that profile from the touchscreen :headscrat

Also I've never used the android app on my phone to control the Farbwerk lighting, so I gave that a try. The app installs fine, but I can't see the Farbwerk listed in the app to connect to, yet I can see the Farbwerk in my "Bluetooth" setttings on the computer. Any ideas?


----------



## MuxLee

Barefooter said:


> Last weekend I was playing around with the Aqua Suite software and my Farbwerk. I wanted to save several different lighting schemes to different "saved profiles", and apparently the Farbwerk settings do not get saved in the profile, you have to actually go into the Farbwerk section and turn off or change the lighting manually. Am I missing something? I wanted to create a profile with the lighting turned off so I could easily change to that profile from the touchscreen :headscrat
> 
> Also I've never used the android app on my phone to control the Farbwerk lighting, so I gave that a try. The app installs fine, but I can't see the Farbwerk listed in the app to connect to, yet I can see the Farbwerk in my "Bluetooth" setttings on the computer. Any ideas?


I am having similar problems saving settings but on the LT ..,,,, have nt been on here for a while so without reading /searching just wondering if it is known bug or are any workarounds. It was all working fine before I updated to 2018 and some firmware upgrdae !!


----------



## erikbarone

Hi, can someone explain to me what Aquacomputer Poweradjust does? My understanding is that it provides flow sensor and other sensors so if I have an EK D5 pump and hook it to a Poweradjust then to Aquaero, this way I can monitor these sensors in Aquasuite, is this correct? So does this mean if I buy an Aquacomputer aquabus D5 pump instead of EK D5 then I dont need a Poweradjust anymore? since this pump already came with these sensors. Thank you


----------



## Ashcroft

erikbarone said:


> Hi, can someone explain to me what Aquacomputer Poweradjust does? My understanding is that it provides flow sensor and other sensors so if I have an EK D5 pump and hook it to a Poweradjust then to Aquaero, this way I can monitor these sensors in Aquasuite, is this correct? So does this mean if I buy an Aquacomputer aquabus D5 pump instead of EK D5 then I dont need a Poweradjust anymore? since this pump already came with these sensors. Thank you


The poweradjust is a legacy device sort of. It is a high powered voltage control device that was designed to support water pumps like the DDC before there were PWM controlled versions available.

The poweradjust also provides a third mechanical based flow sensor input if the two on the Aquaero are used or not available. It can be used as a standalone device with a single output header to control a pump or fans wired together, or it can be connected to the Aquaero via Aquabus and it becomes a 5th output header although not PWM capable like the 4 on the Aquaero.

Since PWM devices have become widely available the poweradjust is not as needed or useful as it once was.

The D5 pumps have never been very well supported by the poweradjust and are less so even more today with PWM versions available. The D5 have never been purely voltage controlled devices like the DDC pumps were. They have inbuilt speed controls in the vario or PWM and USB controls in the newer versions. 
Trying to use a voltage controller on a d5 vario does not work well. Due to the way the pump works, external voltage control provides a very limited speed range. It can run at full speed or slightly less before the voltage falls low enough that it simply stops. The inbuilt controls offer a far greater range of speed control.

( correction .. with the exception of the D5 strong version which is purely voltage controlled, but it requires a 24 volt controller and they are rare since the newer pumps arrived)


----------



## Ashcroft

jsutter71 said:


> Anyone know if this D5 is beyond repair. Since it's the aquabus version I'm a reluctant since they are impossible to find now. I noticed 2 of my pumps, this one included were very sluggish. The first one was given new life after I resoldered the power wires to the PCB. This one was a failure. I took these pics with a Macro lens in order to show the fine details. As you see the power wire is removed and I made every attempt to remove the old solder. It kills me to just throw stuff away when 99% of the time I can repair it. Worse case I ordered a D5 next from Germany. I also scored 2 of the next gen Farbwerk controllers since they're now in stock. No more 4 pin connectors except for my luminous panel. Speaking of new equipment why doesn't any of the new equipment from Aquacomputer come with aquabus cables?


I can't tell from the pictures if the power wires can just be resoldered on or not.
The good news is that even if it can't, you can take the Aquabus controller board from it and solder it into a brand new D5 vario and create a new Aquabus D5


----------



## skupples

Ashcroft said:


> The poweradjust is a legacy device sort of. It is a high powered voltage control device that was designed to support water pumps like the DDC before there were PWM controlled versions available.
> 
> The poweradjust also provides a third mechanical based flow sensor input if the two on the Aquaero are used or not available. It can be used as a standalone device with a single output header to control a pump or fans wired together, or it can be connected to the Aquaero via Aquabus and it becomes a 5th output header although not PWM capable like the 4 on the Aquaero.
> 
> Since PWM devices have become widely available the poweradjust is not as needed or useful as it once was.
> 
> The D5 pumps have never been very well supported by the poweradjust and are less so even more today with PWM versions available. The D5 have never been purely voltage controlled devices like the DDC pumps were. They have inbuilt speed controls in the vario or PWM and USB controls in the newer versions.
> Trying to use a voltage controller on a d5 vario does not work well. Due to the way the pump works, external voltage control provides a very limited speed range. It can run at full speed or slightly less before the voltage falls low enough that it simply stops. The inbuilt controls offer a far greater range of speed control.


example of this PWM Range mentioned at the end of his post

my MCP35x2 (2x PWM DDC) pick up around 37% n max out around 70% via 6LT & this is "normal"


----------



## jsutter71

Old and New. The new farbwerk controllers showed up.


----------



## Masher06

I thought I heard somewhere that there was a representative here in this thread from Aquatuning.us. If so, could someone point me in the right direction, or if that person reads this, could you PM me please? I’ve sent an email a few days ago regarding an incorrect order and would like to hear from someone in the company before going much further. Thanks.


----------



## InfoSeeker

Masher06 said:


> I thought I heard somewhere that there was a representative here in this thread from Aquatuning.us. If so, could someone point me in the right direction, or if that person reads this, could you PM me please? I’ve sent an email a few days ago regarding an incorrect order and would like to hear from someone in the company before going much further. Thanks.



This is the aquaero forum which does have an aquacomputer rep drop in occasionally.
There is an aquatuning forum here on overclock.net, but I believe it has not seen a rep for a long time.
Your best bet may be to check the contact page on the aquatuning website.


----------



## Aenra

Masher06 said:


> I thought I heard somewhere that there was a representative here in this thread from Aquatuning


And just in case infoseeker's post didn't clarify this strongly enough, Aqua Computer* has nothing to do* with Aquatuning.
Something for which we are very, very thankful


----------



## Pinnacle Fit

I don’t own an Aquaro, but I am interested in learning more. The only aquacomputer product I own is the filter, and it’s very well made. 

I’m using a lamptron unit made for water cooling but it’s 3 pin and leaves much to be desired. 

What would I gain from the aquero? 



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## GTXJackBauer

Pinnacle Fit said:


> I don’t own an Aquaro, but I am interested in learning more. The only aquacomputer product I own is the filter, and it’s very well made.
> 
> I’m using a lamptron unit made for water cooling but it’s 3 pin and leaves much to be desired.
> 
> What would I gain from the aquero?
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


 I hope this video below answers some of your questions.


----------



## Pinnacle Fit

GTXJackBauer said:


> I hope this video below answers some of your questions.
> 
> 
> Aquaero 6




I cringed a bit when they turned on a naked d5 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## skupples

you'll gain everything. That little lamptron does what Aquaero can do on one single channel. 

That video is even a bit conservative. I've got 40 Gentle Typhoon AP15s running off of mine, along with flow sensors, temp sensors, lighting control unit (farbwerk) uh... I phased out the pressure sensor, it was pretty silly. 

An aquaero + the MIPS flow meter = the best start up control kit you could ever wish for. 

(aquaero includes temp probes)

or even the mechanical flow meter, that's what I use.


----------



## GTXJackBauer

Pinnacle Fit said:


> I cringed a bit when they turned on a naked d5
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Those pumps weren't really dry. IIRC, they said they used either oil or some liquid inside those bearings for this demonstration.


----------



## Pinnacle Fit

GTXJackBauer said:


> Those pumps weren't really dry. IIRC, they said they used either oil or some liquid inside those bearings for this demonstration.




Ah ok. I couldn’t listen...at work now


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## GTXJackBauer

skupples said:


> you'll gain everything. That little lamptron does what Aquaero can do on one single channel.





skupples said:


> That video is even a bit conservative. I've got 40 Gentle Typhoon AP15s running off of mine, along with flow sensors, temp sensors, lighting control unit (farbwerk) uh... I phased out the pressure sensor, it was pretty silly.
> 
> An aquaero + the MIPS flow meter = the best start up control kit you could ever wish for.
> 
> (aquaero includes temp probes)
> 
> or even the mechanical flow meter, that's what I use.



I have a similiar setup without that many fans. 



- x2 D5 PWM pumps - Runs power from PSU

- 9 rads fans on one channel 

- 3 case fans on another 

- Mech. Flow meter

- x2 Farbs, 

- Air, water temps and 2 Cali Temps via X4



Pinnacle Fit said:


> Ah ok. I couldn’t listen...at work now
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk



Oh not in the video heh. It's just some music playing. They had once said what they did in the forums. Possibly here actually.


----------



## skupples

oh, forgot to mention my MCP35x2, except it draws molex power externally. It only catches a signal from the Aquaero (default wiring 2 pins to molex 2 pins to unit)

which I forgot to mention... I got these SATA powered BP PWM hubs that I can't seem to gain control over via the 2 pins that come off of it for such. Gotta dig into it more later, but so far toggling power modes does nothing, it's strange really. The MCP35x2 is working off of the exact same principal... External power & signal from head unit. They were the cheepest upgrade from the passive ModMyToys boards that I had, two of which burned out at some point over the years. 

item 
https://www.newegg.com/Product/Prod...aYOAtV1FRaZ75XKXvexoC4YUQAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds


----------



## war4peace

Just read the product page, mate...



> The aquaero is an absolutely autonomous working microprocessor-controlled device with USB 2.0 interface. All speed parameters and sensor values can be set and visualized in an user-friendly menu or through an even easier to use PC-software.
> 
> The key features of the aquaero 6 include:
> · Programmable four channel fan controller
> · USB 2.0 and aquabus interface
> · Four fan outputs with up to 30 Watt of power per channel
> · All fan outputs with 4-Pin plug, switchable between voltage and PWM control
> · Versatile control options
> · Eight temperature sensor inputs
> · Flow sensor input
> · Three LED outputs
> · Potential-free switch
> · Two additional power outputs
> · Extensive alarm options
> · Acoustical alarm
> · Speed signal output for status evaluation
> · Expandable to a maximum of 12 fan channels





> In maximum configuration, the following devices can be connected to an aquaero via aquabus to expand functionality:
> 4x Calitemp
> 2x aquaero 5/6 LT
> 2x QUADRO
> 8x poweradjust 2/3
> 2x aquastream ULTIMATE or aquastream XT pump
> 2x D5 NEXT pump
> 4x VISION based products
> 4x mps based devices (flow sensor, pressure/fill level sensor or D5 pump with aquabus)
> 2x farbwerk
> 1x Real Time Clock expansion module





> The aquaero can control a total of:
> 12 fan outputs
> 64 temperature sensors
> 6 pumps
> 14 flow sensors
> 4 fill level or pressure sensors
> 9 RGB outputs
> 1 relay contact


----------



## Masher06

InfoSeeker said:


> This is the aquaero forum which does have an aquacomputer rep drop in occasionally.
> There is an aquatuning forum here on overclock.net, but I believe it has not seen a rep for a long time.
> Your best bet may be to check the contact page on the aquatuning website.





Aenra said:


> And just in case infoseeker's post didn't clarify this strongly enough, Aqua Computer* has nothing to do* with Aquatuning.
> Something for which we are very, very thankful


Thanks for the info. Aenra, I’m starting to suspect I know why you feel this way. I ordered a water block from them, received the wrong item, and what I did receive was obviously a used or returned item. I have sent them messages and emails but have not heard a peep so I’m trying to find alternative methods of contact. So far I’m not terribly impressed and wanted to give them a chance to respond before I drag them through the mud.


----------



## GTXJackBauer

Masher06 said:


> Thanks for the info. Aenra, I’m starting to suspect I know why you feel this way. I ordered a water block from them, received the wrong item, and what I did receive was obviously a used or returned item. I have sent them messages and emails but have not heard a peep so I’m trying to find alternative methods of contact. So far I’m not terribly impressed and wanted to give them a chance to respond before I drag them through the mud.



I'm assuming you guys are talking about aquatuning? If so, I've had issues with them in the past on a big order. They sent me a big fill bottle I couldn't find in the states without the cap/tubing as it only had a seal cap on it which defeats the whole purpose of having it. I kindly asked them to send me the missing parts. Went back and forth and sometimes I didn't get a response right away. Nonetheless, they sent me a refund as they gave me no other option and to told me they would give me free shipping on the next order. They told me they would be off as they had some type holiday as I can't recall one exist around that time and never got back to me as they were suppose to add up a order for me. Won't ever buy anything from them again. I've added them to my 'stay away like the plague' mental listing.


----------



## Pinnacle Fit

war4peace said:


> Just read the product page, mate...




Thanks. I was more looking for testimonial from owners as to why they switched from using a run of the mill fan controller. I get that it offers more, but I didn’t know if it was overkill for what I needed. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Shawnb99

Pinnacle Fit said:


> Thanks. I was more looking for testimonial from owners as to why they switched from using a run of the mill fan controller. I get that it offers more, but I didn’t know if it was overkill for what I needed.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk




It just offers more features and can control a lot. I’m running 33 fans, 4 pumps, flow meter, 4 calitemps, 6 online temp sensors plus a whole lot more. 

Plus the software is very good as well.

If you don’t need all the features of an AQ6 then look at the Quadro.


----------



## skupples

It's overkill for what I originally needed, minus the ability to run PWM pumps & RPM fans from the same unit, via software. 

The fact its all software synced was the main selling point for me. I actually prefer my screenless model, as then I can just stash it wherever works best for wiring.


----------



## Shawnb99

Yeah I love the fact I can hide it away as needed. Just gotta remember to attach the screen before updating otherwise it’ll read as an LT model and you loose a year of software updates.


----------



## Pinnacle Fit

Shawnb99 said:


> Yeah I love the fact I can hide it away as needed. Just gotta remember to attach the screen before updating otherwise it’ll read as an LT model and you loose a year of software updates.




When you use it for the first time and set your desired fan speeds, does it take effect on a hardware level, or do you need to boot into windows and start the software before it takes effect?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## skupples

i don't remember tbh,

I remember it not holding settings when cutting power, but I also never tried to look for a save function from the head unit itself.


----------



## GTXJackBauer

It has memory on it so you can save your work on the AQ as a standalone. On the window side through the Aquasuite software, you just save the profile and can also save the changes back to the AQ's memory through the software as well. 

Yes, if it's overkill for you and don't want to spend that much, you could go with the LT version or the QUADRO (Only PWM control iirc).


----------



## Gamma52

Hey all,

Problem with my 6XT, hopefully someone can help. I have two EK D5 G2 pumps that were running fine on my 7700k/1080ti system. Fast forward to now. I'm now on a 9900k/2080ti and the only thing on the aquaero I touched was the USB cable, to swap motherboards. I can't tell you how many times I checked to make sure the USB cable was inserted properly, and to what I can see, the USB is working as expected. However, now it seems that my aquaero cannot control the pumps adequately, especially given that only the PWM/tach is connected to the aquaero. Power for the pump comes from molex on the PSU. Although listed as fans, previously the setup worked fine, and RPM reported correctly for being a pump.

I verified that my pumps are working correctly by plugging in the PWM/tach to the motherboard, and there the pump performs as expected. So the problem is that when connected to the aquaero, I get no pump output up to about 75%, and then flow is consistent up until about 95%, when it goes full flow. I know that the pump isn't running at 0-75% because I can open another inlet on the top of my res and visually confirm there is no liquid entering the reservoir. 

Fans appear to be working normally, and work normally on any header, 1-4, while both pumps show the same problem on all headers as well. 

Any advice? Did I miss some setting perhaps when I reinstalled everything with my new setup? Or is this something more than a missed checkbox?


----------



## skupples

i have my stuff setup the same way, for PWM DDCs, tach/rpm from header, power from molex.

make sure you have it set to PWM in advanced settings, under its channel .


----------



## GTXJackBauer

skupples said:


> make sure you have it set to PWM in advanced settings, under its channel .



+1


----------



## Gamma52

skupples said:


> i have my stuff setup the same way, for PWM DDCs, tach/rpm from header, power from molex.
> 
> make sure you have it set to PWM in advanced settings, under its channel .


One of the first things I checked, any other ideas?


----------



## skupples

fully default the device n start over, if you're sure the cable is good.

maybe switch usb heads.


----------



## Gamma52

skupples said:


> fully default the device n start over, if you're sure the cable is good.
> 
> maybe switch usb heads.


I'll try this when I get home from work tomorrow as it's getting late over here. Just to confirm, the manual says pin 5 is not connected so I should be plugging into the key row on my motherboard, with the 4 pins, not 5, correct?


----------



## skupples

it goes in the top row w. 5 pins, the bottom row has one less pin than the top row.

that could be it too, if you plugged it into the bottom row of mobo header.


----------



## Gamma52

skupples said:


> it goes in the top row w. 5 pins, the bottom row has one less pin than the top row.
> 
> that could be it too, if you plugged it into the bottom row of mobo header.


Seemed to be the issue, getting flow at lower speeds, 100% looks/sounds faster, and the 75-90% range seems to be what the old 100% was. 

Thanks for the help.


----------



## GTXJackBauer

Glad you got it figured out. :thumb:


----------



## jsutter71

Ashcroft said:


> I can't tell from the pictures if the power wires can just be resoldered on or not.
> The good news is that even if it can't, you can take the Aquabus controller board from it and solder it into a brand new D5 vario and create a new Aquabus D5


Sounds like a fun project. Are their any instructions that you know of on how to do this? If not please PM me. I'm pretty good at figuring out things but my skill levels typically begin with a technical manual.


----------



## jsutter71

Does anyone know where to find terminals and their housings for RGBpx lighting? My luminous panel has the standard 4 pin connector and I'd prefer to not to use adapters. Finding DIY parts for lighting is tedious.


----------



## Ashcroft

Gamma52 said:


> I'll try this when I get home from work tomorrow as it's getting late over here. Just to confirm, the manual says pin 5 is not connected so I should be plugging into the key row on my motherboard, with the 4 pins, not 5, correct?


It makes no difference because the 5th pin is just an extra ground. Most USB devices only have four wires anyway. I believe they only added the 5th pin as a way to ensure it could not be reversed accidentally.

If we needed all 5 pins we would only be able to connect a single USB device per dual USB MB Header. I've had my Aquaero and USB pumps connected to the top and bottom row and vice versa and it is fine.



jsutter71 said:


> Sounds like a fun project. Are their any instructions that you know of on how to do this? If not please PM me. I'm pretty good at figuring out things but my skill levels typically begin with a technical manual.


There is a link to a forum post with guide on the first page of this thread.

http://forums.overclockers.com.au/showthread.php?t=1060642 (Modding a D5 Vario into an AC D5 with a Mips PCB)

Its quite simple and there are decent pics on the last page. If you need any help with it just PM me.


----------



## skupples

yet somehow it still resolved his issue.


----------



## Ashcroft

Coincidence doesn't change the facts. 
If he swapped it back it'll probably work fine too unless there is physical damage. It might just be a bad cable with not good enough contact on one pin, or a pin is backing out of the connector housing. Just unplugging and plugging it back in likely was the fix. They are pretty fragile and easy to install not quite right.

Seriously, if the Aquaero required a specific USB port it would be in the manual, and it would be a common problem. Telling people myths like that just causes confusion for anyone that reads it later and goes on to repeat it.

USB is a 4 pin, 4 wire standard. (USB 2.0 like the Aquaero uses at least)


----------



## skupples

I didn't mean to insinuate that it did.

just that it was strange that moving it seems to have resolved the issue... or the nice long restart that was possibly involved, or possible total power cut, or a few other things. 

I'm not a programmer, & I don't know the secrets of wiring, but as far as I understand it, ground is ground is ground.


----------



## InfoSeeker

jsutter71 said:


> Does anyone know where to find terminals and their housings for RGBpx lighting? My luminous panel has the standard 4 pin connector and I'd prefer to not to use adapters. Finding DIY parts for lighting is tedious.



The plug system is called PicoBlade.
If in the USA, Newark carries the line.
Just an FYI, the crimping tool looks to be over $330.00.


----------



## InfoSeeker

Ashcroft said:


> It makes no difference because the 5th pin is just an extra ground. Most USB devices only have four wires anyway. I believe they only added the 5th pin as a way to ensure it could not be reversed accidentally.
> 
> If we needed all 5 pins we would only be able to connect a single USB device per dual USB MB Header. I've had my Aquaero and USB pumps connected to the top and bottom row and vice versa and it is fine.



That's what I understand. The '5th' pin is the shield ground that wraps the cable itself. That's why there is only one pin for it, both ports run through the same cable... typically.

FrontX shows the pinout on some of their product pages (scroll to bottom).


----------



## jsutter71

Cyber Locc said:


> Yep got it now, its ordered, 35USD total for me shipped to the states, with the current conversion worth every penny .
> 
> No AQ6 yet, but soon, have to lay off spending for few weeks, and setup the entire AQ eco system so expensive lol.





InfoSeeker said:


> The plug system is called PicoBlade.
> If in the USA, Newark carries the line.
> Just an FYI, the crimping tool looks to be over $330.00.


Thank you much. Molex brand crimpers are way to expensive. I suspect that you could just as easily use any crimper that supports small gauge wire such as Dupont terminal crimpers. I have a few different crimpers that do 30 AWG wire and then this bad boy I bought from ebay a couple years ago.


----------



## socialite2dot0

It was mentioned over on the Aqua Computer forum by a regular member (not AC staff) that it is now possible to connect the AC High FLow Sensor (53068) to the "Aquabus Low" input on the Aquaero 6XT. Is this correct? If so, what settings need to be configured in order to get it to work properly?


----------



## war4peace

Yes it is possible, simply plug it in. The Aquabus Low Speed no longer exists and the 3-pin there has been re-purposed as a secondary flow sensor.


----------



## deanorthk

I am going to get my corsair obsidian 1000D in three weeks. perfect case for my wc setup, but... no place to mount natively the aquaero 6 
Any idea how to drop it in such a case?


----------



## InfoSeeker

deanorthk said:


> I am going to get my corsair obsidian 1000D in three weeks. perfect case for my wc setup, but... no place to mount natively the aquaero 6
> Any idea how to drop it in such a case?



Not sure how you value the display screen, but personally I would get, or convert to the LT.
It will mount anywhere against a bulkhead.


----------



## Shawnb99

deanorthk said:


> I am going to get my corsair obsidian 1000D in three weeks. perfect case for my wc setup, but... no place to mount natively the aquaero 6
> 
> Any idea how to drop it in such a case?




The LT model can be mounted anywhere and is very easy to hide inside the case.
The only advantage the other models offer is the remote and an extra year of license for the software. 
Faceplate can easily be removed.


----------



## skupples

1000D... interesting case...


----------



## war4peace

Not really, I have reviewed it at launch and while it looks very nice, it can only accommodate soft tubing, if you wish to use the sliding radiator frames. It also has horrendous air allowance. 
I have helped to build (for a friend) a triple loop cooling system inside it, with 2x 480mm radiators and 1x 420mm radiator, using hard tubing, which negated the possibility to slide the frames without bleeding the whole system. There was simply not enough air going through to allow proper cooling without ramping up the fans. Don't get me wrong, it worked, but could have worked better. Taking down the frontal tempered glass panel and the top one helped cooling tremendously. One extra inch air allowance on top and front would have made wonders.

The client of the build send the case back.


----------



## skupples

i only use soft tube anyways, however after my time with 900D, i'm good on 1000D. 

The sliding radiator thing is a decent idea, but what concessions were made in terms of space and customization to implement a feature that honestly isn't even that useful.

also, as you said yes, definitely looks like an air trap. 

I think I'll stick to my STH10, and eventually the LianLi DK05.


----------



## Shawnb99

My biggest gripe with Aquacomputer is how flimsy and thin their cables are. Just had a 3rd calitemp cable break on me. So thin and the connector is so small that all the breaks are at the connector making the cable unfixable

For the price they charge for the cables you’d think they would be better shielded against breaks like this but nope all are super thin and break super easy. Just moving the cable around can break it.


----------



## Shawnb99

Seems I have a dead Quadro. Anything I plug into it doesn’t work. Need to reformat so not sure if it’s showing up in Windows yet. 
Just won’t start any fans connected to it.

Will investigate more


----------



## GAN77

Shawnb99 said:


> Seems I have a dead Quadro. Anything I plug into it doesn’t work. Need to reformat so not sure if it’s showing up in Windows yet.
> Just won’t start any fans connected to it.
> 
> Will investigate more


It may be necessary to update the controller software.


----------



## Shawnb99

GAN77 said:


> It may be necessary to update the controller software.




I’m hoping that’s just it. I’ll reformat tomorrow and see. I did just get a new one that I don’t think I updated the firmware for before I took the rig offline so that could be it. I know I mixed up what was new and what wasn’t.


----------



## socialite2dot0

Shawnb99 said:


> My biggest gripe with Aquacomputer is how flimsy and thin their cables are. Just had a 3rd calitemp cable break on me. So thin and the connector is so small that all the breaks are at the connector making the cable unfixable
> 
> For the price they charge for the cables you’d think they would be better shielded against breaks like this but nope all are super thin and break super easy. Just moving the cable around can break it.


THIS!!! I've broken two cables and I haven't even finalized my system or completed my build yet! You would think that a thicker gauge wire would be used or something! Whenever I make an order for gear, I sometimes just throw in a few extra of each cable just in case... Now that I think about it though, I'm just adding to the problem... Why would they build better cables when they have idiots like me who buy extra just because they can't or choose not to afford the downtime?


----------



## war4peace

Why do you buy calitemp sensors is beyond me.


----------



## Shawnb99

war4peace said:


> Why do you buy calitemp sensors is beyond me.




And why not?


----------



## war4peace

1. It looks pretty ugly IMO.
2. It is unnecessarily complex. 
3. It is rather large.
4. With most radiators having multiple G1/4 plugs, a plug-type sensor is better because it can be mounted on the back of the radiator and its wire is easier to tuck away so it's not visible.

On top of all that, its wiring breaks all the time.

Don't get me wrong, I own multiple Aquacomputer products and I consider the Aquaero 6 the best controller currently available, hands-down. The Calitemp, on the other hand, is a failed product IMO.


----------



## Aenra

war4peace said:


> I consider the Aquaero 6 the best controller currently available


It is unfortunately the ONLY external+autonomous(ish) controller currently available ^^

I will be my usual level of frank and admit that personally at least? Disappointed with it.
1) The construction quality is O.K. Not good, definitely nothing to write home about, just.. O.K. A lot of money for "just O.K". Sandwitching PCB parts like that.. and sure, yeah, "it works". 
2) It takes forever for it to get started, you get mobo alarms due to no signal detection. Yes yes, i know, you can disable the most basic and central security function EVER and run your PC just "fine".. seriously folks?  Have it start instantly and when it's capable, yes, let it moderate the pulse; at a later time. But it needs to start instantly or close enough; in its current state.. just..
3) For that kind of money, i was expecting proper pulse moderation.. not stating the output "power", except hey, you're under "PWM" supposedly! Rather, to be able to input a selectable, actual RPM range you wanted that the controller would then try and achieve per fan. _*That*_'s how it's meant to go. This thing doesn't do that, lol, but still costs 200 euro.. nice.. Pulse moderation is when you ask for 2200 and you get 2200, because that's what you asked for. NOT when you select a power range under PWM control and the Aquaero gives the revolutions it amounts to; it being why of course you can't even have just two fans operating at the exact same revolutions unless they're individually plugged... so no "up to 19384652 fans", not really. More like up to 4 fans period; one, per channel. So there's a huge difference between what it's hyped as being capable of doing, and HOW it is doing it in practice.

And yet.. praised.. overclock.net eXXXtreme manchildren at their usual finest.

Is it a must? For someone needing to run many fans, maybe. Cheaper and equally NON-accurate to buy an 11euro XSPC PWM fan hub, lol, run it from your mobo. Is it anyway near what people here make it out to be? Hell no.
Of course, it's why i use this language.. what else would one expect from people making custom Delta tables for fun.. sure i guess 
But this is not how true pulse moderation works. It's a bleeding shame that all my reading aside? I had to buy one before learning it actually does nothing like that and its advertising be damned.

Go ask what PWM is and what it offers, then compare that to what AQ does. Then come back to me.

(what Aquaero does do that i appreciate, is its being capable of controlling multiple sub-devices; that at least has potential, assuming one needed any of them, but.. it says PWM controller on the box and PWM control it does not. Not really, not technically)
((so why gosh darnit did not a single person here state this huh... /rhetorical))


----------



## JasonMorris

Just bought a Quadro myself and had to do a firmware update straight away before it would work.


----------



## war4peace

Aenra said:


> 1) The construction quality is O.K. Not good, definitely nothing to write home about, just.. O.K. A lot of money for "just O.K". Sandwitching PCB parts like that.. and sure, yeah, "it works".


I agree with this statement. It was always my impression that Aquacomputer is a company operated by engineers-only, who are only preoccupied with how the device works and not at all by how it looks. Given the alternative (all looks, crap functionality), I'm fine with it. I can 3D-print stuff which makes it look better but I couldn't enhance its functionality if it lacked.



Aenra said:


> 2) It takes forever for it to get started, you get mobo alarms due to no signal detection. Yes yes, i know, you can disable the most basic and central security function EVER and run your PC just "fine".. seriously folks?  Have it start instantly and when it's capable, yes, let it moderate the pulse; at a later time. But it needs to start instantly or close enough; in its current state.. just..


Um... not sure what you are trying to say. It starts instantly for me. I turn on my machine, I hear the fans ramping up immediately and then back to idle (which is how I configured it, given I control voltage-based fans on my main radiator). In all fairness I disabled all motherboard-based monitoring because there are no fans or sensors connected to it.



Aenra said:


> 3) For that kind of money, i was expecting proper pulse moderation.. not stating the output "power", except hey, you're under "PWM" supposedly! Rather, to be able to input a selectable, actual RPM range you wanted that the controller would then try and achieve per fan.


Again, not sure what you mean. You have three options: power, speed and PWM. I used power and PWM, was satisfied with how it works.



Aenra said:


> This thing doesn't do that, lol, but still costs 200 euro.. nice..


The LT costs 99 EUR and is enough for most people. Even the QUADRO is enough for most people.



Aenra said:


> Pulse moderation is when you ask for 2200 and you get 2200, because that's what you asked for. NOT when you select a power range under PWM control and the Aquaero gives the revolutions it amounts to; it being why of course you can't even have just two fans operating at the exact same revolutions unless they're individually plugged... so no "up to 19384652 fans", not really. More like up to 4 fans period; one, per channel. So there's a huge difference between what it's hyped as being capable of doing, and HOW it is doing it in practice.


I would go ahead and blame the fan producers for this. My testing showed that multiple identical fans chained through Splitty9 have a fan speed difference of maximum 30 RPM at high speeds. Low speed fans have a difference of 10-15 RPM, which is as close to perfect as possible.
Are you complaining about the possibility to run multiple fans per channel? If you don't like it, no need to use it.



Aenra said:


> Is it a must? For someone needing to run many fans, maybe. Cheaper and equally NON-accurate to buy an 11euro XSPC PWM fan hub, lol, run it from your mobo. Is it anyway near what people here make it out to be? Hell no.


Simple fan controlling is the last feature I would buy an Aquaero for. Nobody should do that for fan controlling only. But controlling fan speeds based on multiple thresholds, inputs and sensors, independent of the OS and even motherboard is something else. I want to see my liquid temperatures, liquid flow speed, set up alarms in case flow drops under a certain threshold, see my radiator power dissipation, set up fans to start, stop and reach certain speeds based on multiple parameters. Aquaero is the only controller which is able to do all that and more.

It's not perfect but really close.


----------



## Shawnb99

Do you need to hook up a Hubby7 to sata power to use 6 ports on it? Having issues having everything be recognized via USB. All plugged in correctly

I can’t get nothing working connected to ports 3,5 or 7. 

This is why I break cables, so many times having to redo it all cause something doesn’t work right. So frustrating.


----------



## Barefooter

Shawnb99 said:


> Do you need to hook up a Hubby7 to sata power to use 6 ports on it? Having issues having everything be recognized via USB. All plugged in correctly
> 
> I can’t get nothing working connected to ports 3,5 or 7.
> 
> This is why I break cables, so many times having to redo it all cause something doesn’t work right. So frustrating.


I am using all the ports on my Hubby7 without the SATA power cable and all are working just fine.

I am only using it for components connected to my Aquaeros however, not powering up any devices that require any real amount of power.


----------



## Shawnb99

Only have my 3 Quadros, the AQ, a 400 MBS and my Aqualias res connected.

Ports 3, 5 and 7 don’t work for me. Great now that’s not working.

Plus because of the poorly designed Aquabus X4 I now can’t get one screw to go in for the faceplate on the Aquaero. Damn bracket to mount it in the drive bay is just bent enough to not let the screw catch and screw in. Looks like I won’t get to use the front panel.


----------



## jsutter71

I'm in the process of changing over to RGBpx and ran into an issue. My luminous panel has the standard 4 pin connector. I thought I might be able to connect to an adapter, like the splitty3, and then to the new Farbwerk. The issue is that the Splitty3 has 10mm RGBpx connectors and everything uses the 5mm connectors. Any ideas on how to make this work? I'm starting to rethink my entire cooling setup. Might jump to dual loop because my case is huge, STH10, and even with 4 pumps my flow is week. That means I'd add a second Aquaero which would solve this issue because I would just attach an older farbwerk to it.


----------



## iamjanco

jsutter71 said:


> I'm in the process of changing over to RGBpx and ran into an issue. My luminous panel has the standard 4 pin connector. I thought I might be able to connect to an adapter, like the splitty3, and then to the new Farbwerk. The issue is that the Splitty3 has 10mm RGBpx connectors and everything uses the 5mm connectors. Any ideas on how to make this work? I'm starting to rethink my entire cooling setup. Might jump to dual loop because my case is huge, STH0, and even with 4 pumps my flow is week. That means I'd add a second Aquaero which would solve this issue because I would just attach an older farbwerk to it.


Couldn't you make your own cables? This thread (*RGBpx wiring Diagram*) at AC might help. It has links in it to the correct Molex parts (1.25mm Pitch PicoBlade Wire-to-Wire and Wire-to-Board Housing, Female, 4 Circuits) you would need, as well as pre-built cables that might work. 

Also, if you're going to go diy and make your own, the *hand crimp tool* for 1.25mm Pitch PicoBlade Female Crimp Terminals, 26-32 AWG looks like the correct one to use. Like other Molex crimp tools, it is expensive though (~$350 or so, give or take)

Not sure how well other crimp tools might work.


----------



## skupples

flow weak with 4 pumps?

I'd definitely split your loop up, & try to remove as many 90s as humanly possible.

At one point I had 4 60mm 480s, 3 gpu, cpu, memory, chipset, & still maintained 200lp/h cuz I used next to no 90s.


----------



## looniam

iamjanco said:


> Couldn't you make your own cables? This thread (*RGBpx wiring Diagram*) at AC might help. It has links in it to the correct Molex parts (1.25mm Pitch PicoBlade Wire-to-Wire and Wire-to-Board Housing, Female, 4 Circuits) you would need, as well as pre-built cables that might work.
> 
> Also, if you're going to go diy and make your own, the *hand crimp tool* for 1.25mm Pitch PicoBlade Female Crimp Terminals, 26-32 AWG looks like the correct one to use. Like other Molex crimp tools, it is expensive though (~$350 or so, give or take)
> 
> Not sure how well other crimp tools might work.


just a thought after following that hand crimp tool link . .

https://www.molex.com/molex/product...Title=Introduction&parentKey=cable_assemblies

lead to both (through digi key)
https://www.digikey.com/products/en?WT.z_cid=sp_900_0310_buynow&keywords=797580014

https://www.digikey.com/products/en?WT.z_cid=sp_900_0310_buynow&keywords=797580006

could some thing like those work (depending on length?)


----------



## iamjanco

looniam said:


> just a thought after following that hand crimp tool link . .
> 
> https://www.molex.com/molex/product...Title=Introduction&parentKey=cable_assemblies
> 
> lead to both (through digi key)
> https://www.digikey.com/products/en?WT.z_cid=sp_900_0310_buynow&keywords=797580014
> 
> https://www.digikey.com/products/en?WT.z_cid=sp_900_0310_buynow&keywords=797580006
> 
> could some thing like those work (depending on length?)


Yes, there's a fairly strong possibility of that as long as the terminals used in the wider connector housing are also picoblades. 

For reference purposes:

*Molex 63827-1400 Crimper Application Tooling Specification*
*Pre-made Cable drawing* (multiple cable options shown)
*Picoblade pre-made cables*; 152mm and 304mm (150/300) lengths


----------



## war4peace

skupples said:


> flow weak with 4 pumps?
> 
> I'd definitely split your loop up, & try to remove as many 90s as humanly possible.
> 
> At one point I had 4 60mm 480s, 3 gpu, cpu, memory, chipset, & still maintained 200lp/h cuz I used next to no 90s.


I have the same question. I have a friend who uses one pump in a GPU+CPU setup with externally-located MoRa 420 and he doesn't have a flow issue, even with QDCs an several 90 degrees. Another friend has a setup with CPU+GPU and two EKWB XE360 radiators, all in series, and his flow is 240 l/minute. My setup, with 2x 1080 Tis in SLI and a monoblock, with 2x EKWB D5 pumps in a volute (in series) has more than enough flow, as you can see in my sig (cca 330 L/h).


----------



## Shawnb99

I also have flow issues. 
When I was able to check my flow I was only getting 1.1GPM with both pairs of pumps at 100%. I have at most 4-6 90 degree bends and 3 QDC4’s yet I still have flow.


----------



## war4peace

You should check your radiators for blockages. This happens more often than thought, I encountered a couple cases myself.


----------



## Shawnb99

My Radiators are brand new so no blockages, I think my issues it from the 90 degree bends and the QDC’s. I’ll have to get more creative with my tube routing.


----------



## GTXJackBauer

Could be radiators if they weren't cleaned prior to installation or buildup over time. Other than that, I agree that the bends actually add up. 

I personally witnessed it myself the last few months since I upgraded my DDC's since one of them died of age and had them replaced with two EK D5 G2s in serial. My DDC's needed 40% PWM to flow @ 1.0 GPM. My D5s atm need 90-95%+ to be around 1.0 GPM and I only max out at 1.1 GPM @ 100% when my DDCs went even further than that. Here's the thing though. I went from dual GPUs in SLI to a new single GPU during the new pump installation. You would think my loop should be less restrictive right? What happened you asked? I added another 3-4 90 degree bends. From a total of 14 fittings, I use 4 straights (2 straight barbs for flow meter) and the rest are bends and to be exact, 7 are 90 degrees. 

My High Flow meter used to lay flat but now it's facing horizontal upward or vertical instead of it's bottom or back so I'm not sure if that's the cause of the readings I'm getting but the addition bends I had added to the loop and repositioning of the flow meter is when I noticed the flow change knowing the DDCs (35X) have great head pressure compared to the D5s.


----------



## Shawnb99

Yeah it’s likely all the 90 degree bends and all the other assorted bends. I may have gone a little overboard stuffing 4 rads, and cooling the GPU, CPU and MB, the CPU to MB is just a PIA to connect without bends. By not cutting the case I’ve limited myself. I’ll do another tear down at a later date and see if I can route a bit better. I’m happy with the flow at 100% for now.


----------



## war4peace

The 90 degrees don't add as much restriction as generally believed. The heaviest restriction is in the waterblocks and radiators. Especially if the whole circuit is in series.


----------



## InfoSeeker

New aquasuite update:

Changelog

Download


----------



## Barefooter

Shawnb99 said:


> Yeah it’s likely all the 90 degree bends and all the other assorted bends. I may have gone a little overboard stuffing 4 rads, and cooling the GPU, CPU and MB, the CPU to MB is just a PIA to connect without bends. By not cutting the case I’ve limited myself. I’ll do another tear down at a later date and see if I can route a bit better. I’m happy with the flow at 100% for now.


I doubt if your 90s are any problem at all. Years ago Martins Liquid lab did a flow test with a varying number of 90s in the loop, and even with a large number of 90° fittings (can't remember now how many it was) there was very little restriction or flow rate reduction. The QDCs probably have more restriction than all of your 90s.

I can't find that exact test, but here an interesting read for you https://martinsliquidlab.wordpress.com/2013/01/05/elbow-impacts-on-pump-performance/

I have two D5s in serial, 17 various 90° fittings, four tee fittings, six radiators, with seven water blocks all in one loop, and I still get 1.2 GPM flow rate with the pumps at 100%.


.


----------



## skupples

thinking now... The main thing I've noticed is 90s directly off the pump, or a couple inches off the pump makes the most difference. At least, on my mcp35x2. 

I replaced the 2 90s that come off my pump, to the pass thru w/ bp snake 90s n my flow quite literally doubled. I was sitting @ a dismal 150, n now hover around 300.


----------



## IT Diva

Keep in mind that all fittings do not seem to be created equal.


Some, for no perceptible reason, are massively more restrictive than others, and you need to be careful when you mix and match brands.


----------



## skupples

good point, even between generations of BP as well. 

any fittings I had that weren't BP have failed in some manner & are now in the trash.

the only ones that haven't failed were EnzoTech low profile 90s, n they're incredibly restrictive at the port. Half the diameter of bp.


----------



## jsutter71

With a large case like my STH10 and 4 rads it's hard to completely avoid all the 90 degree angles. Especially in a single loop setup with 4 RADS. In the past I experienced flow improvement by cutting down on fittings which left me to become more creative with my bends. My new bending station in the pic below. Lot's of wasted tubing with trial and error. At this point dual loop is going to be my best solution to increase flow rates. I surplus of EK fittings in the picture. So what's the best alternative to EK-XE RADS? I'm considering alternatives which would could provide better input/output options with equal or better performance.


----------



## Barefooter

jsutter71 said:


> With a large case like my STH10 and 4 rads it's hard to completely avoid all the 90 degree angles. Especially in a single loop setup with 4 RADS. In the past I experienced flow improvement by cutting down on fittings which left me to become more creative with my bends. My new bending station in the pic below. Lot's of wasted tubing with trial and error. At this point dual loop is going to be my best solution to increase flow rates. I surplus of EK fittings in the picture. So what's the best alternative to EK-XE RADS? I'm considering alternatives which would could *provide better input/output options with equal or better performance.*


I've been real happy with the Hardware Labs Black Ice SR2 Multiport radiators :thumb:

.


----------



## war4peace

You can set up your radiators for parallel flow, it would improve the overall flow through the waterblocks with no impact on cooling capacity.


----------



## jsutter71

war4peace said:


> You can set up your radiators for parallel flow, it would improve the overall flow through the waterblocks with no impact on cooling capacity.


Interesting. I've never tried that before. My only issue would be adding addition tubing in tight spots.


----------



## Shawnb99

war4peace said:


> You can set up your radiators for parallel flow, it would improve the overall flow through the waterblocks with no impact on cooling capacity.




Depending on the space between the two Radiators and the tubing used it can be a real tight fight. Using Primochill tubing I ended up causing a crack in both bottom Radiator ports due to the tight space and the stiffness of the tubing, changing to Mayhems tubing made it a lot easier.


----------



## GAN77

*Shawnb99*,

Why are you breaking everything?)


----------



## Shawnb99

Lol I’m not trying to. I’m just to strong for my own good.


----------



## war4peace

jsutter71 said:


> Interesting. I've never tried that before. My only issue would be adding addition tubing in tight spots.


Use extensions such as this one. Of course, this solution only works if the build allows it, I have tried it, worked very well, but I had both radiators next to each other in a Thermaltake Core X5.


----------



## Shawnb99

I think two of my Quadros are now dead. Can’t get either to register the fans or anything connected to it. Nothing shows up in Aquasuite. 
I’m so frustrated with these things never working right, damn cables break so easily.

I thinks it time to find another fan controller and give up on all AQ gear. So frustrating


----------



## skupples

sli extenders + what's linked above are great for cross connecting rads in tight spaces.


----------



## war4peace

Yup, I use them all the time.


----------



## Vlada011

I have question about Aqua Computer D5 Next.
I saw that flow sensor should be calibrated before start to work. 
How? to install him on reservoir out of PC and connect outlet with inlet port and start him?

That part is little confused I see some people didn't even tried to calibrate him.
And what happen if you success to calibrate him out of loop? You need again to calibrate when you install loop and enable system to work?

Because I follow experience of D5 Next owners. Mostly because fit on Heatkiller Tube D5 and because no Power Cables.
I'm not sure only is it possible Aqua Computer 120mm Mounting Bracket who hold D5 Next to hold and Heatkiller 100 reservoir full of liquid, risky?


----------



## GAN77

Vlada011 said:


> I have question about Aqua Computer D5 Next.
> 
> How?


Calibration process:
1. The system has to be perfectly deaerated, no bubbles or foam visible in the
coolant.
2. Coolant temperature should be between 25 °C and 35 °C.
3. Ensure that the computer is currently idle and no high-load background
tasks are currently active. During calibration, no coolant is pumped through
the system!
4. Block coolant flow by kinking a hose or closing a stop valve in the coolant
loop.
5. Start the calibration process either using the aquasuite or the device menu.
6. Wait for the calibration process to complete. The process takes approximately 30 seconds. If errors occur or if the calibration process has not finished after 60 seconds, immediately proceed to the next step.
7. Restore coolant flow. Ensure no hoses are kinked and stop valves if present
are fully opened.
Limitations: Flow rate can not be calculated if a second pump is present in the
cooling circuit! Flow rate calculation is calibrated for DP Ultra viscosity and will
deviate when using other coolants ore pure water!


----------



## Vlada011

Wow, that's not process I would like to do.
But keeping empty field Flow as I saw in software it's BAD.

Is it possible to calibrate out of PC ant than to install inside loop and to work?
Because installation of Ball Valve in loop need completely different configuration and later drain and remove Ball Valve on proper place where no influence on flow and only serve as drain port.


----------



## war4peace

Just get a mechanical flow meter and be done with it.


----------



## Shawnb99

No need to add a ball valve, a QDC should have the same effect. Disconnecting the QDC should work.

Main issue with the non MPS sensors is you can only install them horizontal or they can rattle.


----------



## GTXJackBauer

Shawnb99 said:


> No need to add a ball valve, a QDC should have the same effect. Disconnecting the QDC should work.
> 
> Main issue with the non MPS sensors is you can only install them horizontal or they can rattle.



Are you referring to the physical ones like the 'High Flow' meter that I use? I have mine standing up atm since I had no other option when I used to have it flat on it's back. I wonder if standing up effects it's accuracy.


----------



## Shawnb99

Yep the high flow ones can make noise when not mounted horizontal, they can also make noise if your flow is above like 2GPM. It shouldn't affect it's accuracy I don't think, just the thingy inside can rattle.


----------



## Vlada011

It's not option buying 30 euro for quick disconnect fitings to calibrate flow meter.
They need to show video of some example without additional investments...

Maybe is better to buy this Flow 200.
If I understand he have temperature sensors capable to connect to ASUS ROG boards example and flow meter.
You only need one USB2.0 Internal connector, anyway is empty.










It's not cheap but it's not ugly like flow meter with colorful propeller inside.
Is this only flow sensor-temperature sensor on market in one tool?


----------



## Shawnb99

Depending on the tubing size the MPS flow meters aren't calibrated correctly for them and you will have to calibrate them yourself. Using the larger tubing size makes the high flow meters the better option


----------



## Andrew LB

Shawnb99 said:


> My Radiators are brand new so no blockages, I think my issues it from the 90 degree bends and the QDC’s. I’ll have to get more creative with my tube routing.



Brand new doesn't mean jack. Even the best cleaned brands of radiators occasionally have one that slips by QC and within a week of installation, flux and other crap will come loose and start clogging up the fins in your waterblocks. Happened to me the first loop i built and i went so far as to first soak with vinegar followed by rinsing with the hottest water i could get get from a faucet... .and of course a distilled flush afterward. Still wasn't enough to get the flux out. 





> No need to add a ball valve, a QDC should have the same effect. Disconnecting the QDC should work.
> 
> Main issue with the non MPS sensors is you can only install them horizontal or they can rattle.



Strange, mine doesn't rattle one bit. Flow rate is 1.31gpm. 





> 1) The construction quality is O.K. Not good, definitely nothing to write home about, just.. O.K. A lot of money for "just O.K". Sandwitching PCB parts like that.. and sure, yeah, "it works".



Maybe you didn't get the memo, but they make a version with, and another without the LCD display. Even if they managed to put everything onto a single PCB, what happens then to the LT version? Much more cost effective to have a separate display board than to design two entirely different pcbs.


----------



## GTXJackBauer

Anyone remember how to implement HWiNFO onto Aquasuite 2018-12 or has that been completely removed because I'm trying to access the temp of a M.2 in a M.2 PCIe Adapter. My Data Source is limited atm to what AQ sees I believe.


----------



## Shawnb99

Andrew LB said:


> Brand new doesn't mean jack. Even the best cleaned brands of radiators occasionally have one that slips by QC and within a week of installation, flux and other crap will come loose and start clogging up the fins in your waterblocks. Happened to me the first loop i built and i went so far as to first soak with vinegar followed by rinsing with the hottest water i could get get from a faucet... .and of course a distilled flush afterward. Still wasn't enough to get the flux out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Strange, mine doesn't rattle one bit. Flow rate is 1.31gpm.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Maybe you didn't get the memo, but they make a version with, and another without the LCD display. Even if they managed to put everything onto a single PCB, what happens then to the LT version? Much more cost effective to have a separate display board than to design two entirely different pcbs.




Brand new and cleaned with Blitz kit parts 1 & 2. It wasn’t blockage, my issue is likely the QDC’s. Anyways since upgrading to a second MCP35X2 I now see flow rates up to 1.6GPM when at 100% and get 1GPM when at 27% so my flow is fine now.
As for the clicking on the flow meters I’ve never experienced it myself but have seen reports of it at flow 2GPM and higher. As to making noise when not horizontal that’s easy to confirm if you have a spare one, blowing air and making the impeller move when horizontal makes no noise but if you turn it vertical there is a clear clicking sound made.


----------



## InfoSeeker

GTXJackBauer said:


> Anyone remember how to implement HWiNFO onto Aquasuite 2018-12 or has that been completely removed because I'm trying to access the temp of a M.2 in a M.2 PCIe Adapter. My Data Source is limited atm to what AQ sees I believe.



On the HWiNFO Settings' General tab ensure the following are checked:
1. Show Sensors on Startup (need to be on)
2. Minimize Main Window on Startup (unless you want to see it)
3. Minimize Sensors on Startup (unless you want to see it)
4. Shared Memory Support (activates Windows Services to pass to aquasuite)
5. Auto Start (runs at system start)


----------



## Moose-Tech

I also happened to run into the same problem. I was able to verify the ambient sensor was accurate up until about 1 to 2 inches away. I am pretty sure it was radiant heat from the radiator being transferred to the sensor. 
I was able to verify this against the optional ambient sensor I added to my Vision display. At 2.5 to 3 inches the temps were a close match.

I finally shifted all my controls to work off the Vision ambient sensor to maintain a more accurate value for my calculations.


----------



## GTXJackBauer

InfoSeeker said:


> On the HWiNFO Settings' General tab ensure the following are checked:
> 1. Show Sensors on Startup (need to be on)
> 2. Minimize Main Window on Startup (unless you want to see it)
> 3. Minimize Sensors on Startup (unless you want to see it)
> 4. Shared Memory Support (activates Windows Services to pass to aquasuite)
> 5. Auto Start (runs at system start)



I've tried it and no HD's show up. The same devices are shown as in my previous image. I can see the HD's/m.2s in HWiNFO but not in AQ still. I even restarted AQ and no go.


----------



## InfoSeeker

GTXJackBauer said:


> I've tried it and no HD's show up. The same devices are shown as in my previous image. I can see the HD's/m.2s in HWiNFO but not in AQ still. I even restarted AQ and no go.



Software Sensor assigned in aquasuite > aquaero > sensors tab?


----------



## Ashcroft

*Ashcroft*



Vlada011 said:


> It's not option buying 30 euro for quick disconnect fitings to calibrate flow meter.
> They need to show video of some example without additional investments...
> 
> Maybe is better to buy this Flow 200.
> If I understand he have temperature sensors capable to connect to ASUS ROG boards example and flow meter.
> You only need one USB2.0 Internal connector, anyway is empty.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's not cheap but it's not ugly like flow meter with colorful propeller inside.
> Is this only flow sensor-temperature sensor on market in one tool?


Sorry if I'm misunderstanding what you are trying to say but here goes.

The D5 next has a feature where it estimates flow rate. Its not a proper flow meter as such.

The MPS 200 type flow meters are excellent devices if you have the time and equipment to very accurately calibrate them to your tube size, fittings and loop. They do come with a basic calibration that is close enough in most systems though.

The MPS flow meters do not have internal temp sensors. They just have an input header for the standard temp sensors like the Aquaero uses.

For ease of use and good accuracy out of the box the mechanical high flow meters are probably the best choice. The MPS flow sensors are more accurate if you have the means to create your own custom calibration.


----------



## 414347

GTXJackBauer said:


> I've tried it and no HD's show up. The same devices are shown as in my previous image. I can see the HD's/m.2s in HWiNFO but not in AQ still. I even restarted AQ and no go.


I can confirm that something is up with this 2018-12 aquasuite. I was able to see all storage in previous version no luck in this one. I'm not sure if anyone else can see their HDDs/SSD's, if they can, it might be specific setup or M/B related issue

Unfortunately, you don't get much help at AQ forum, and if you get some sort of answer its like pulling their teeth, so you pretty much depend on users input.


----------



## 414347

Vlada011 said:


> It's not option buying 30 euro for quick disconnect fitings to calibrate flow meter.
> They need to show video of some example without additional investments...
> 
> Maybe is better to buy this Flow 200.
> If I understand he have temperature sensors capable to connect to ASUS ROG boards example and flow meter.
> You only need one USB2.0 Internal connector, anyway is empty.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's not cheap but it's not ugly like flow meter with colorful propeller inside.
> Is this only flow sensor-temperature sensor on market in one tool?


Its smaller, no mater how its positioned, its very silent you don't hear wheel paddle and never need calibration .. plug and play and its very accurate.


----------



## InfoSeeker

NewUser16 said:


> Its smaller, no mater how its positioned, its very silent you don't hear wheel paddle and never need calibration .. plug and play and its very accurate.



I used to be a HUGE fan of the MPS flow sensors, used a couple of them. But, for me anyway, the rubber like boot that seals the sensor probe into the coolant stream failed over time and leaked. The High Flow is larger, but for me more reliable, and that is what I use now. Just one person's experience.


----------



## 414347

InfoSeeker said:


> I used to be a HUGE fan of the MPS flow sensors, used a couple of them. But, for me anyway, the rubber like boot that seals the sensor probe into the coolant stream failed over time and leaked. The High Flow is larger, but for me more reliable, and that is what I use now. Just one person's experience.


Is the high flow larger? i thought it was smaller but obviously I was off I used the same high flow meters for almost decade, its been super quiet and reliable so I'm happy


----------



## GTXJackBauer

InfoSeeker said:


> Software Sensor assigned in aquasuite > aquaero > sensors tab?



Thank you sir. That did it! :thumb:


----------



## skupples

I just use mechanical RPM gauge + the free-with-Aquaero temp probes. It's just a block of pom. I've never had an issue. They make the slightest little clicky/percolating noise. that's it. impossible to hear beyond my fans unless you're ear is next to it.

I'm a firm believer in K.I.S.S. when it comes to the my daily driver.


----------



## Pinnacle Fit

iamjanco said:


> Couldn't you make your own cables? This thread (*RGBpx wiring Diagram*) at AC might help. It has links in it to the correct Molex parts (1.25mm Pitch PicoBlade Wire-to-Wire and Wire-to-Board Housing, Female, 4 Circuits) you would need, as well as pre-built cables that might work.
> 
> 
> 
> Also, if you're going to go diy and make your own, the *hand crimp tool* for 1.25mm Pitch PicoBlade Female Crimp Terminals, 26-32 AWG looks like the correct one to use. Like other Molex crimp tools, it is expensive though (~$350 or so, give or take)
> 
> 
> 
> Not sure how well other crimp tools might work.




Not sure why you’re spending $350 on a crimp tool. I have one that does both PSU cables and molex pins. I paid about a tenth of that. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## iamjanco

Pinnacle Fit said:


> Not sure why you’re spending $350 on a crimp tool. I have one that does both PSU cables and molex pins. I paid about a tenth of that.
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


I didn't spend $350 on that crimping tool, and have no need for it


----------



## Pinnacle Fit

iamjanco said:


> I didn't spend $350 on that crimping tool, and have no need for it




My point was that it doesn’t cost anywhere close to that. You can spend a lot less and crimp the wires you need to. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## iamjanco

Pinnacle Fit said:


> My point was that it doesn’t cost anywhere close to that. You can spend a lot less and crimp the wires you need to.
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Point taken. You could also spend a lot less on a smart phone. Get it?


----------



## Pinnacle Fit

iamjanco said:


> Point taken. You could also spend a lot less on a smart phone. Get it?




Not really man. It seemed by your statement that you were implying that if you want to crimp wires, you need to spend $350. I’m saying that’s not true. And the analogy that spending less on a smartphone being akin to getting a lower quality phone than an iPhone or Samsung doesn’t apply here. They sell cable crimpers for average $35 to $50 on amazon. That’s been the case for awhile now. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## war4peace

My QUADRO arrived today. I will use it in my mITX „Project Raven” build. With the QUADRO, I got a set of RGBpx LED strips made by Aquacomputer as well (the case set with 4x strips with 15 LEDs each). I have connected the QUADRO to my „Box of Horrors” PC to test the LED strips and the features of RGBpx.

It is amazing. It's the first time I have seen pure white in RGB, the video analyzer is awesome as well. I will buy a couple for my main PC (one for the monitor backlight, the other for the PC case itself). I am stunned, really. Excellent job by Aquacomputer as usually. Congratulations guys!


----------



## GTXJackBauer

war4peace said:


> My QUADRO arrived today. I will use it in my mITX „Project Raven” build. With the QUADRO, I got a set of RGBpx LED strips made by Aquacomputer as well (the case set with 4x strips with 15 LEDs each). I have connected the QUADRO to my „Box of Horrors” PC to test the LED strips and the features of RGBpx.
> 
> It is amazing. It's the first time I have seen pure white in RGB, the video analyzer is awesome as well. I will buy a couple for my main PC (one for the monitor backlight, the other for the PC case itself). I am stunned, really. Excellent job by Aquacomputer as usually. Congratulations guys!


 If you could post some pics of it all would be nice. 

Been on the fence about going ARBG since I'd need to overhaul all my LEDs and pretty much throw away my Farberks and would have to replace them with Farbwerk 360s. Unfortunately, I don't think I can install them on the single bay bezel that I use for the regular Farbwerks on with the Blue LEDs and don't think the 360s come with LEDs either.


----------



## Barefooter

I recently finished putting together a guide for initial setup for Aquaeros and the Aquasuite software. I was originally just making it to put on my build log, but I kept adding to it and it ended up being fairly large with over 65 screen shots.

I figured if I posted it here it would just get buried after a short time, so besides posting in on my build log, I also made a new thread for it.

If you haven't already seen it here is a link Aquaero & Aquasuite Software Setup Guide


.


----------



## GTXJackBauer

Barefooter said:


> I recently finished putting together a guide for initial setup for Aquaeros and the Aquasuite software. I was originally just making it to put on my build log, but I kept adding to it and it ended up being fairly large with over 65 screen shots.
> 
> I figured if I posted it here it would just get buried after a short time, so besides posting in on my build log, I also made a new thread for it.
> 
> If you haven't already seen it here is a link Aquaero & Aquasuite Software Setup Guide
> 
> 
> .



Amazing but unfortunately I can't see the images which is odd. Not sure if using FireFox matters.

I just tested it with Google Chrome and Microsoft Edge and both don't show images.


----------



## Barefooter

GTXJackBauer said:


> Amazing but unfortunately I can't see the images which is odd. Not sure if using FireFox matters.
> 
> I just tested it with Google Chrome and Microsoft Edge and both don't show images.


Yeah I was just over there and seeing the same thing 

Since the site changed early last year I've been using the "Insert Image" button to put the images into the posts which works fine, but leaves the stupid thumbnails on the bottom of the post.

I just recently figured out how to go back in after submitting the post, clicking on the "Manage Attachments" button, then deleting all the pictures at the bottom of the box. It appeared to work good, it got rid of the thumbnails, and the pictures still appeared in the post.

I even waited several days and kept rechecking, and it worked fine. So I'm not sure what happened, and why some of the pictures still show but most of them are gone :headscrat

I really did not want to have over 60 thumbnails on the bottom of the post. I still have all the images, so this weekend I'll go back in and see if I can add them back in.

.


----------



## Pinnacle Fit

I’m looking at getting the aquero 6 xt. But I have a Lian Li O11 dynamic with no 5.25 bays. What are my options? I don’t really want the quadro because I like the idea of the remote and full automation but if quadro and splittys are my best option I’ll do that 

Is there any way to mount a 5.25 without a bay? 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## Shawnb99

Yeah if you need the remote you need the XT. The LT is the other option though you can't ever upgrade to have the remote.


----------



## Pinnacle Fit

Shawnb99 said:


> Get the LT model, the only thing you sacrifice is the ability to use the IR remote and the mounting it in the front bay. Otherwise it's the same model




If I got the xt model, can I just remove the faceplate and stick the pcb somewhere? 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## Shawnb99

Yeah removing the face-plate makes it a LT model. Then you can stick it anywhere


----------



## Pinnacle Fit

Shawnb99 said:


> Yeah removing the face-plate makes it a LT model. Then you can stick it anywhere




Ok from where I’m sitting the perks of paying $80 outweigh that. I only stopped because I wasn’t sure if it was removable. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## Shawnb99

Yep it's removable. Just be aware that Aquasuite will read the Aquaero as a LT if the faceplate isn't connected giving you a year less of support. Just connect it once when you update and you should be fine. 

Without the faceplate it downgrades to a LT model. Need to remove the faceplate if you want to change it's color as well.


----------



## Pinnacle Fit

Shawnb99 said:


> Yep it's removable. Just be aware that Aquasuite will read the Aquaero as a LT if the faceplate isn't connected giving you a year less of support. Just connect it once when you update and you should be fine.
> 
> 
> 
> Without the faceplate it downgrades to a LT model. Need to remove the faceplate if you want to change it's color as well.




Way I see it...buying the face plate separately and a year of support would cost more. I just prefer to pay more for options later. It’s $80 more 

Is that wise here? I plan to separate the lcd and the pcb unless someone has a way to mount it to a 120mm fan. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Shawnb99

Pinnacle Fit said:


> Way I see it...buying the face plate separately and a year of support would cost more. I just prefer to pay more for options later. It’s $80 more
> 
> Is that wise here? I plan to separate the lcd and the pcb unless someone has a way to mount it to a 120mm fan.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


It all depends on how much you want the controller. If you buy a LT model even if you buy the faceplate later you can't use the controller for some reason. 
Where as if you buy the XT you can remove the faceplate and store it for later use with the controller. You need the faceplate to make the controller work as the IR receiver is on the faceplate. Using the faceplate and not mounting in a bay is an option as well. It doesn't add that much bulk to it.

NM cheaper on Amazon

Also get the heatsink for it. You can connect a lot more to it without it shutting down or overheating


----------



## Pinnacle Fit

Shawnb99 said:


> It all depends on how much you want the controller. If you buy a LT model even if you buy the faceplate later you can't use the controller for some reason.
> 
> Where as if you buy the XT you can remove the faceplate and store it for later use with the controller. You need the faceplate to make the controller work as the IR receiver is on the faceplate. Using the faceplate and not mounting in a bay is an option as well. It doesn't add that much bulk to it.
> 
> 
> 
> Order from Performance-PC's before Amazon




Oh wow. I wasn’t aware you can’t buy the faceplate after the fact. I didn’t even think about the concept of mounting with the faceplate without the wings. I’m coming from lamptron so we didn’t have that option. 

As you say 

“Using the faceplate and not mounting in a bay is an option as well. It doesn't add that much bulk to it.”

That’s all I need to know. As long as I can figure out a way to get it ‘IR receivable’ I’m good. Even if no, the fact that I’m throwing $110 vs $90 later is proof enough for me. 

Aquero 6XT. I’ll give you rep when I log in via desktop. It’s been awhile as you can see my sig (I’m on a 9900k and 1080ti lol) 




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## Pinnacle Fit

Just ordered the XT. THANKS! 


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## GTXJackBauer

Don't forget to use the PCS discount code if you purchase from them. I forgot but I think it's 'OCN55' but not sure. I made that mistake when I ordered around $400+ worth of stuff a few months back. lol


----------



## Pinnacle Fit

GTXJackBauer said:


> Don't forget to use the PCS discount code if you purchase from them. I forgot but I think it's 'OCN55' but not sure.




I appreciate it. I’m aware of the code but I got it on amazon specifically because it’s cheaper than ppc (even though it’s sold by PPC and fulfilled by amazon) and using my amazon card I get free shipping and 5% back, almost negating tax. 

The code is absolutely still active. I’ve placed about three orders on PPC in as many months. I had to use that code and I confirm that it DOES work. 

Plus I got a surprise discount of 5% through amazon, bringing the total down to $192 including shipping. Wish i didn’t have to go through amazon rather than the source but...


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## Pinnacle Fit

Do these generally last years or will I have to replace the units themselves? 


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## GTXJackBauer

Pinnacle Fit said:


> Do these generally last years or will I have to replace the units themselves?
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk



My AQ6 XT has been running about 3.5 years now no problem (Bought in 11/2015 and installed around 02/2016), outside of a few glitches like my touch screen doesn't work so well so I just use the remote to change through my display.


----------



## jsutter71

I've had my aquaero for as few years and long before they introduced the LT version. From my experience I never really needed the display or the remote control. My next build which will be a dual loop system will include a second aquaero minus the display. I'll likely take my existing 6XT and remove that display as well. I suppose it might be useful if I was running my system 24/7 but that never happened.


----------



## Moose-Tech

Shawnb99 said:


> My biggest gripe with Aquacomputer is how flimsy and thin their cables are. Just had a 3rd calitemp cable break on me. So thin and the connector is so small that all the breaks are at the connector making the cable unfixable
> 
> For the price they charge for the cables you’d think they would be better shielded against breaks like this but nope all are super thin and break super easy. Just moving the cable around can break it.


One of the things i like to do when I build is when I find the backend wire outputs seem thin and unprotected, is to protect them. 
Use either a single or double layer of shrink-tubing, or some hot glue laid all up to the connector to stiffen it up, or even just wrapping it with doublesided RUBBER adhesive tape. All of these will offer some protection of normal component movement during case assembly/disassembly.

Other tricks I used for sensor wires is to mount the sensor wire extension so that it is protected behind another fitting, and then wrap the sensor wire around another wire or something else (fixed in place) before sending out the wiring slot to the rear. You can buy extension cables for K2 sensors if you need a longer run. I am pretty sure I got my last set from Phobya.


----------



## Shawnb99

Moose-Tech said:


> One of the things i like to do when I build is when I find the backend wire outputs seem thin and unprotected, is to protect them.
> Use either a single or double layer of shrink-tubing, or some hot glue laid all up to the connector to stiffen it up, or even just wrapping it with doublesided RUBBER adhesive tape. All of these will offer some protection of normal component movement during case assembly/disassembly.
> 
> Other tricks I used for sensor wires is to mount the sensor wire extension so that it is protected behind another fitting, and then wrap the sensor wire around another wire or something else (fixed in place) before sending out the wiring slot to the rear. You can buy extension cables for K2 sensors if you need a longer run. I am pretty sure I got my last set from Phobya.


Thanks I will have to try some of these ideas out


----------



## war4peace

GTXJackBauer said:


> If you could post some pics of it all would be nice.


I tested it yesterday with a friend then put it back in the box, I will not use this one on my main PC so no pictures taken, sorry. I will have to order the special cable for the flow meter, and the "Project Raven" build is still months away from even beginning to work on it, I need to buy all the components, for now I only have the case, the PSU and the QUADRO. Besides the core components I will have to buy the CPU and GPU waterblocks (Bykski), the pump combo (Bykski), the fittings (Bykski), the radiator (Phobya), tubing (EKWB)... a lot of money to spend. But I will get a Farbwerk 360 for my main PC soon and I will post pictures and review it briefly when I do that.


----------



## vidmaster

*A6 Question w/EK PWM 4pin (2active) cable*

Hello There,

I purchased a Aqua computer 6 Pro and 2 x EK-XTOP REVO D5 Pumps: 
https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-xtop-revo-d5-rgb-pwm-plexi-incl-sl-pump

I guess my question is...how best to hook these two pumps up to this thing for PWM control?

1. - I am guessing the aquabus interfaces are not compatible / Proprietary to Aquacomputer devices?
2. - The 2 Pin 1 AMP PWM inputs seem to be for something very particular and not pumps?
3. - The 4 channel x 4 pin fan interfaces look like they will hook up but then i will be controlling PWM with voltage and burning one of my 4 fan channels?

I am lost as to what best practice would be. Saw this forum of power-users and am hoping for the best  

Thanks for your time.


----------



## GTXJackBauer

vidmaster said:


> Hello There,
> 
> I purchased a Aqua computer 6 Pro and 2 x EK-XTOP REVO D5 Pumps:
> https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-xtop-revo-d5-rgb-pwm-plexi-incl-sl-pump
> 
> I guess my question is...how best to hook these two pumps up to this thing for PWM control?
> 
> 1. - I am guessing the aquabus interfaces are not compatible / Proprietary to Aquacomputer devices?
> 2. - The 2 Pin 1 AMP PWM inputs seem to be for something very particular and not pumps?
> 3. - The 4 channel x 4 pin fan interfaces look like they will hook up but then i will be controlling PWM with voltage and burning one of my 4 fan channels?
> 
> I am lost as to what best practice would be. Saw this forum of power-users and am hoping for the best
> 
> Thanks for your time.


1. Yes, aquabus is only there for Aquacompter's proprietary devices that support it.

2. Don't connect anything on that unless it's a specific type of LED lights otherwise you could damage the controller and wrong devices connected to it.

3. You will connect those pumps via Molex to the PSU for power and the other set of wires can be connected to a cable like this to combine their PWM/Tach (Only one tach sends a signal with these wires) to a single channel so your pumps are sync'd in control and monitored ONLY if this is for a dual pump in SERIAL setup unless of course you're doing two separate loops for each pump where you'll need to plug in each pump to each of their own fan header on the AQ6. Some might say you could still connect them together even if they are in their own loops but that is up to you. 

Remember with that Swiftech PWM Splitter cable you'll want to use the 4-pin female side back to the fan channel you choose on the controller to control and monitor your pumps via PWM.

You'll then want to make sure you select 'PWM controlled' under the Aquaero>Fans tab.


----------



## war4peace

vidmaster said:


> Hello There,
> 
> I purchased a Aqua computer 6 Pro and 2 x EK-XTOP REVO D5 Pumps:
> https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-xtop-revo-d5-rgb-pwm-plexi-incl-sl-pump
> 
> I guess my question is...how best to hook these two pumps up to this thing for PWM control?
> 
> 1. - I am guessing the aquabus interfaces are not compatible / Proprietary to Aquacomputer devices?
> 2. - The 2 Pin 1 AMP PWM inputs seem to be for something very particular and not pumps?
> 3. - The 4 channel x 4 pin fan interfaces look like they will hook up but then i will be controlling PWM with voltage and burning one of my 4 fan channels?
> 
> I am lost as to what best practice would be. Saw this forum of power-users and am hoping for the best
> 
> Thanks for your time.


I have an Aquaero 6 LT (similar pinouts) and 2x EKWB Revo D5 pumps.
The pumps are powered throguh MOLEX connectors from the PSU directly and the PWM wires are connected to Aquaero's 4-pin PWM interfaces 1 and 2. This way I could control both my pumps' speeds separately. They are serially connected so I could have just used a splitter to control both from one interface, but I would have lost the ability to monitor both their speeds.
Also voltage control and PWM control are different things.


----------



## vidmaster

GTXJackBauer said:


> 1. Yes, aquabus is only there for Aquacompter's proprietary devices that support it.
> 
> 2. Don't connect anything on that unless it's a specific type of LED lights otherwise you could damage the controller and wrong devices connected to it.
> 
> 3. You will connect those pumps via Molex to the PSU for power and the other set of wires can be connected to a cable like this to combine their PWM/Tach (Only one tach sends a signal with these wires) to a single channel so your pumps are sync'd in control and monitored ONLY if this is for a dual pump in SERIAL setup unless of course you're doing two separate loops for each pump where you'll need to plug in each pump to each of their own fan header on the AQ6. Some might say you could still connect them together even if they are in their own loops but that is up to you.
> 
> Remember with that Swiftech PWM Splitter cable you'll want to use the 4-pin female side back to the fan channel you choose on the controller to control and monitor your pumps via PWM.
> 
> You'll then want to make sure you select 'PWM controlled' under the Aquaero>Fans tab.


Thanks so much to GTXJackBauer & war4peace, for replying so quickly and the help. I did not see that the 6 allows for PWM through these fan channels until you mentioned it. This is good news. 

I have two separate loops so using two of the 4 channels for PWM monitoring would be ideal. I guess the only gripe is the 9 fans i have to sync on two channels. I am running 480 (4 EK vardar) 360 (3 EK vardar) and 2x chamber fans. I guess i can run the rads on each remaining channel and piggyback one chamber fan on each. 4 and 5 if the Aqua6 can handle that much voltage per channel?


----------



## GTXJackBauer

vidmaster said:


> Thanks so much to GTXJackBauer & war4peace, for replying so quickly and the help. I did not see that the 6 allows for PWM through these fan channels until you mentioned it. This is good news.
> 
> I have two separate loops so using two of the 4 channels for PWM monitoring would be ideal. I guess the only gripe is the 9 fans i have to sync on two channels. I am running 480 (4 EK vardar) 360 (3 EK vardar) and 2x chamber fans. I guess i can run the rads on each remaining channel and piggyback one chamber fan on each. 4 and 5 if the Aqua6 can handle that much voltage per channel?


No problem m8. :thumb:

The AQ6 can handle up to 30W per channel and possibly 35w-40w with the heatsink iirc but not sure but it is 30w max per channel and I added the heatsink to mine just because to help dissipate any thermals created. Just make sure if you combine the fans that they are within spec and that they all are either PWM or Voltage as you can't have mix matched fans bunched together.

Your AQ should be handle all of that and than some as long as you're within the 30w spec combined. You could use this SPLITTY9 to combine fans or aquabus down the round. They also have a USB version if you need more USBs headers. I use both and they're great.


----------



## war4peace

vidmaster said:


> Thanks so much to GTXJackBauer & war4peace, for replying so quickly and the help. I did not see that the 6 allows for PWM through these fan channels until you mentioned it. This is good news.
> 
> I have two separate loops so using two of the 4 channels for PWM monitoring would be ideal. I guess the only gripe is the 9 fans i have to sync on two channels. I am running 480 (4 EK vardar) 360 (3 EK vardar) and 2x chamber fans. I guess i can run the rads on each remaining channel and piggyback one chamber fan on each. 4 and 5 if the Aqua6 can handle that much voltage per channel?


Aquaero 6 can hold 35W per channel, and 9 fans don't use up nowhere near that. Use a aplitty9 and you can connect them all to one channel without issues. I would hook up all radiator fans to one PWM output and the two case fans to the 4th one.


----------



## Shawnb99

war4peace said:


> Aquaero 6 can hold 35W per channel, and 9 fans don't use up nowhere near that. Use a aplitty9 and you can connect them all to one channel without issues. I would hook up all radiator fans to one PWM output and the two case fans to the 4th one.


At most you can connect 6 EK Vadars per channel otherwise they trip the over voltage protection.


----------



## war4peace

Shawnb99 said:


> At most you can connect 6 EK Vadars per channel otherwise they trip the over voltage protection.


It depends on which fans you use. I have hooked 9x EK-Vardar F3-120 (1850rpm) through a Splitty9 and the power usage was a bit over 13W. But if you hook up, for example, EK-Furious Vardar EVO 140 BB (2500rpm) which needs over 9W per fan, four of them would be the maximum you can hook up to one PWM output from the Aquaero. The 6-fan limit applies to EK-Furious Vardar EVO 120 BB (750-3000rpm) which draws 5.64W per fan.

I assumed the previous poster was level-headed and didn't use howling industrial-grade fans


----------



## vidmaster

GTXJackBauer said:


> No problem m8. :thumb:
> 
> The AQ6 can handle up to 30W per channel and possibly 35w-40w with the heatsink iirc but not sure but it is 30w max per channel and I added the heatsink to mine just because to help dissipate any thermals created. Just make sure if you combine the fans that they are within spec and that they all are either PWM or Voltage as you can't have mix matched fans bunched together.
> 
> Your AQ should be handle all of that and than some as long as you're within the 30w spec combined. You could use this SPLITTY9 to combine fans or aquabus down the round. They also have a USB version if you need more USBs headers. I use both and they're great.


More good info here and also from the other replies, thanks again. 

When looking at NOT mixing the two DC chamber fans based on your help...i just decided to get a standard sata powered 3pin hub for those two and will use the 2 channels split for each rad. This should eliminate any possible over voltage problems and give separate control of each rad's fans. 

CH1 = PMW Pump 1
CH2 = PWM Pump 2
CH3 = 4x EK Vardar 120mm for 480 rad
CH4 = 3x EK Vardar 120mm for 360 rad

I also picked up two splitty9 hubs from PPCS for 12$ each (for each channel) and the USB version you mentioned for 22$ on ppcs and saved a few bucks. Having one 5 pin from the board only will make it look so much cleaner.

Thanks for the help. I am new to the forums but planned to make a build log i could link. Would it be appropriate to post that here? If so i will when the build is finished.


----------



## GTXJackBauer

vidmaster said:


> Would it be appropriate to post that here? If so i will when the build is finished.



You could link the log here as this is strictly a Aquaero thread.


Glad to be of some assistance. :thumb:


----------



## deanorthk

got my corsair 1000D and tested the commander pro included... No good. 2 fans channel not working. 
i'll use my aquaero 6 pro again, but since there's no way to fix it, i'll leave it like it.
Problem is, my itx mobo ain't got 2 USB input port, so I can't connect commander pro and aquero 6 at the same time, and I need the commander pro for the RGB in the front, else it'll turn xmas tree light and I hate that
I will only hook 6 fans to the aquaero, if I don't connect the USB to the mobo, will the aquaero start?


----------



## Shawnb99

deanorthk said:


> got my corsair 1000D and tested the commander pro included... No good. 2 fans channel not working.
> 
> i'll use my aquaero 6 pro again, but since there's no way to fix it, i'll leave it like it.
> 
> Problem is, my itx mobo ain't got 2 USB input port, so I can't connect commander pro and aquero 6 at the same time, and I need the commander pro for the RGB in the front, else it'll turn xmas tree light and I hate that
> 
> I will only hook 6 fans to the aquaero, if I don't connect the USB to the mobo, will the aquaero start?




Look at getting a Hubby7 then. It’s a 7 port USB hub.


----------



## GTXJackBauer

Shawnb99 said:


> Look at getting a Hubby7 then. It’s a 7 port USB hub.



Yup. HUBBY7


----------



## deanorthk

Thanks it's indeed perfect!!
Just need to find a source that ship to my place, Reunion island, because amazon.fr won't ^^

thanks guys, really


----------



## Pinnacle Fit

keep getting this error when attempting to connect to aquasuite. I still havent been able to get it connected once. The USB powers the aquero by itself, but i guess the software doesnt recognize it. 

What do I do here?


----------



## GTXJackBauer

I'm not sure if USB (5v) power is enough to communicate with the PC. I think you still need a molex power source to it. USB powering is ok when you're making changers on the controller itself as a standalone. I could be wrong but I think that's what it is.


----------



## Pinnacle Fit

GTXJackBauer said:


> I'm not sure if USB (5v) power is enough to communicate with the PC. I think you still need a molex power source to it. USB powering is ok when you're making changers on the controller itself as a standalone. I could be wrong but I think that's what it is.




I had both connected at first. 

Honestly I’m done with this, it’s going back. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## 414347

It can be very frustrated when things don't work as you would hope. Sometimes troubleshooting can be beyond our abilities of handling the frustration but when it's all good and done its rewording. 

Believe me I know what is like, I've been there, most of us have been there and my latest # of months of agonizing troubleshooting was literately pain I must have been one of these guys who was dealing with the longest troubleshooting task ever, but it's all behind now and I and very glad I didn't give up


----------



## Pinnacle Fit

NewUser16 said:


> It can be very frustrated when things don't work as you would hope. Sometimes troubleshooting can be beyond our abilities of handling the frustration but when it's all good and done its rewording.
> 
> 
> 
> Believe me I know what is like, I've been there, most of us have been there and my latest # of months of agonizing troubleshooting was literately pain I must have been one of these guys who was dealing with the longest troubleshooting task ever, but it's all behind now and I and very glad I didn't give up




There’s a difference between troubleshooting things that you know is going to be an effort in uncertainty, like Overclocking ram or even core clock speeds. But when you’re paying for something (and a lot at that), it should be expected that there’ll be better documentation and that it should work. I have no way of connecting this to my motherboard, and that was the selling point over other controllers. This entire experience has been extremely offputting. 

Maybe it’s just me, since most people here have been successful in connecting their aquero. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## Shawnb99

As far as I know the Aquaero requires the molex and the USB connector. Connecting just the USB won’t show up in Windows.


----------



## 414347

Pinnacle Fit said:


> There’s a difference between troubleshooting things that you know is going to be an effort in uncertainty, like Overclocking ram or even core clock speeds. But when you’re paying for something (and a lot at that), it should be expected that there’ll be better documentation and that it should work. I have no way of connecting this to my motherboard, and that was the selling point over other controllers. This entire experience has been extremely offputting.
> 
> Maybe it’s just me, since most people here have been successful in connecting their aquero.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


When I'm saying I've been there....I mean every word.

My troubleshooting was related to one of many, but very specific services within aquasuite software and aquaero hardware specifically (memory) that was very hard to pinpoint due to so many other programs and hardware using and sharing memory. 

It was so random that it would cause issues at the least expected times and when you dealing with such complex hardware and even more complex and powerful software, sometimes troubleshooting can be difficult.

I know that Aquacomputer doesn't to the best of manuals and scenarios of using or troubleshooting issues and that have always been an issue, but I think this could be due to so many possibilities of configuration of their software and hardware that the manual would be endless. 

If you have the patience and nerves, you learn as you go and then became good at knowing Aquacomputyer from front to back, until then, you pretty much on your own and other then Aquacomputer forum and occasionally AQ support there is not much to go on with.

BTW. Overclocking is totally different ball game, you can expect things to come up and to deal with.

Also, with certain troubleshooting, it's difficult to give advice, unless you sitting in front of the troubled system, just the nature of certain issues e.g. bad cable, USB port, power delivery issue, conflict with other software ext.


----------



## Pinnacle Fit

NewUser16 said:


> When I'm saying I've been there....I mean every word.
> 
> 
> 
> My troubleshooting was related to one of many, but very specific services within aquasuite software and aquaero hardware specifically (memory) that was very hard to pinpoint due to so many other programs and hardware using and sharing memory.
> 
> 
> 
> It was so random that it would cause issues at the least expected times and when you dealing with such complex hardware and even more complex and powerful software, sometimes troubleshooting can be difficult.
> 
> 
> 
> I know that Aquacomputer doesn't to the best of manuals and scenarios of using or troubleshooting issues and that have always been an issue, but I think this could be due to so many possibilities of configuration of their software and hardware that the manual would be endless.
> 
> 
> 
> If you have the patience and nerves, you learn as you go and then became good at knowing Aquacomputyer from front to back, until then, you pretty much on your own and other then Aquacomputer forum and occasionally AQ support there is not much to go on with.
> 
> 
> 
> BTW. Overclocking is totally different ball game, you can expect things to come up and to deal with.
> 
> 
> 
> Also, with certain troubleshooting, it's difficult to give advice, unless you sitting in front of the troubled system, just the nature of certain issues e.g. bad cable, USB port, power delivery issue, conflict with other software ext.




I can appreciate that. It’s just not for me then. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## Pinnacle Fit

Shawnb99 said:


> As far as I know the Aquaero requires the molex and the USB connector. Connecting just the USB won’t show up in Windows.




I had them both connected and it still wouldn’t show up. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## 414347

Pinnacle Fit said:


> I can appreciate that. It’s just not for me then.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


And that is totally understandable. Some times issues might not be easy to fix not because of users limited knowledge, but because of so many other contributing factors. Many people just move on to something else, rather then exhausting their time and energy in trying to fix their either software or hardware issue.


Instead of me looking for your first post can you point me to it where you started having this issue, how did you went about connecting cables to your hardware, did you shot it down your system completely, turned PSU switch off discharged left over power from system, wait and power on ext. Aquaero and aquasuite is very picky about detecting new hardware

Have you check your cables if they actually working properly. Also sometimes if you have both USB and aquabus connected at the same time it won't show.

Shot your system off, turn PSU OFF and discharge system, connect USB power on.



Ahhh, hold on I just realize you have issue with actually installing aquasuite because its not detecting your hardware right?


----------



## 414347

Weird because on your image it shows you get updates until 2016 and version of your installer seem quite old but also, AQ didn't implement option for updates and (inside versions) until just recently, what's up with that 

If your would try to install, or run older aquasuite, it would stop you and ask you to download newer version of aquasuite, unless your hardware has older firmware and that would explain why you could get as far is you did, maybe something to do with your issue.


----------



## war4peace

NewUser16 said:


> What version of Aquasuite are you trying to install, from the image, unless I'm seen things but you have old installer


Indeed, I have seen that as well. Version 2.1.0.0 is, what, 5 years old?
Current version is Aquasuite 2018-12... which reminds me, I have to renew my license. It expired May 31st.


----------



## Pinnacle Fit

war4peace said:


> Indeed, I have seen that as well. Version 2.1.0.0 is, what, 5 years old?
> 
> Current version is Aquasuite 2018-12... which reminds me, I have to renew my license. It expired May 31st.




This is the version that’s on their site though. Can you point me to the new one? 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## 414347

Pinnacle Fit said:


> This is the version that’s on their site though. Can you point me to the new one?
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


https://aquacomputer.de/software.ht...puter/downloads/aquasuite/aquasuite_setup.exe


----------



## war4peace

The one above is the direct link, but if you want an URL which always points to the latest version, there you go:
https://aquacomputer.de/software.html

LER: this just occurred to me, have you bought the Aquaero a long time ago? In this care you might not have access to the latest version unless you renew your license.


----------



## Pinnacle Fit

war4peace said:


> The one above is the direct link, but if you want an URL which always points to the latest version, there you go:
> 
> https://aquacomputer.de/software.html




This is where I got it from...


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## war4peace

See my LE above, your license expired back in 2016 (as seen in your screenshot), so you will need to renew your license.


----------



## Pinnacle Fit

war4peace said:


> See my LE above, your license expired back in 2016 (as seen in your screenshot), so you will need to renew your license.




Ok I’m confused...I just bought it... and it doesn’t recognize my device. How can my license be expired when I never activated it to begin with? 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## war4peace

Where did you buy it from? It is possible it had been activated and the license is based on the hardware serial number. Did you buy a second-hand Aquaero?


----------



## 414347

OK!! what hardware is it, sorry refresh my memory and rather than going circles did you try ask at AQ forum or directly Sven or Sebastian 
There has to be logical explanation, unless your hardware is DOA and that is possibility as well


----------



## Pinnacle Fit

war4peace said:


> Where did you buy it from? It is possible it had been activated and the license is based on the hardware serial number. Did you buy a second-hand Aquaero?



Amazon, but 
I downloaded the software before even connecting it so I don’t understand how the version it’s showing me has anything to do with the hardware itself...


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## Pinnacle Fit

NewUser16 said:


> OK!! what hardware is it, sorry refresh my memory and rather than going circles did you try ask at AQ forum or directly Sven or Sebastian
> 
> There has to be logical explanation, unless your hardware is DOA and that is possibility as well




I haven’t reached out to them or go to AQ forum to ask. I did search for topics on there though and it looks like I’m a small minority of people getting this error, due to my motherboard header not recognizing it. 

It was from ppc but it was fulfilled by amazon. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## skupples

did you license the software, and make sure to properly install as admin? if so, did you replace cables, & try a different header?


----------



## Pinnacle Fit

skupples said:


> did you license the software, and make sure to properly install as admin? if so, did you replace cables, & try a different header?




I didn’t license the software or install as admin (you need UAC just to open it)...I just downloaded it. Do you need a license just for the software to recognize the device? 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## Barefooter

I have always found the Aquasuite software will not install unless it detects an Aquaero device first.


----------



## Pinnacle Fit

Barefooter said:


> I have always found the Aquasuite software will not install unless it detects an Aquaero device first.




Ok I’ll try uninstalling and reinstalling 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## 414347

Barefooter said:


> I have always found the Aquasuite software will not install unless it detects an Aquaero device first.


That is a given, you need to have any of the AQ device installed first otherwise it will NEVER install aquasuite


----------



## Pinnacle Fit

NewUser16 said:


> That is a given, you need to have any of the AQ device installed first otherwise it will NEVER install aquasuite




So...bug in the code? 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## skupples

Pinnacle Fit said:


> I didn’t license the software or install as admin (you need UAC just to open it)...I just downloaded it. Do you need a license just for the software to recognize the device?
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


I just remember that I couldn't access any of my devices until re-licensing the software.


----------



## 414347

Pinnacle Fit said:


> So...bug in the code?
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


No, that's the way works. Aquasuite is useless unless you have any of AQ hardware installed.


----------



## Pinnacle Fit

skupples said:


> I just remember that I couldn't access any of my devices until re-licensing the software.




So it’s SaaS... you never actually own the software... like adobe CC. 




Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## Pinnacle Fit

NewUser16 said:


> No, that's the way works. Aquasuite is useless unless you have any of AQ hardware installed.




I meant that it doesn’t make sense that it 
A) doesn’t recognize my device, but also
B) let me install it, installing the wrong version, and 
C) told me the license is expired on a brand new device it can’t recognize, when I should have two years free. 

Honestly, the entire thing is a massive turnoff for me, along with from the fact that the software is completely inoperable without a license. Im not a fan of the -aaS model at all, but if it worked as intended, with the support I would expect, I would keep it and continue working with it. 

No need to bother troubleshooting further. I appreciate all of you trying to help. I’ll stick with my Mobo fan headers. My current fan software is what it is...but hey-at least it works...

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## skupples

yep, n I think its always been that way?

I honestly don't remember having to ever license my AQ5, n only had to license my 6 recently... which was either due to free time with the new device, or the licensing not existing when AQ6 first came out...

at this point, it seems like you should head to AQ & find out why your device didn't include the two years you mentioned.


----------



## 414347

Pinnacle Fit said:


> I meant that it doesn’t make sense that it
> A) doesn’t recognize my device, but also
> B) let me install it, installing the wrong version, and
> C) told me the license is expired on a brand new device it can’t recognize, when I should have two years free.
> 
> Honestly, the entire thing is a massive turnoff for me, along with from the fact that the software is completely inoperable without a license. Im not a fan of the -aaS model at all, but if it worked as intended, with the support I would expect, I would keep it and continue working with it.
> 
> No need to bother troubleshooting further. I appreciate all of you trying to help. I’ll stick with my Mobo fan headers. My current fan software is what it is...but hey-at least it works...
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


I hope this will make sense to you.

AQ doesn't store older aquasuite on their servers or let you go back and flush previous hardware firmware, so I'm suspecting your hardware might not be newer so aquasuite is detecting older firmware that's why doesn't allow you to use it (incompatibility) I'm guessing, unless as I said its DOA

So, If you run old hardware say 1-2 years old you won't be able to use up to date aquasuite that's for sure, you need to get new license but....if you got your hardware within a years which you said you just purchased it should come with license and you should be able to activate your new software.

But again, if your hardware didn't come with license, makes me wonder where it really came from and how new or old is.


----------



## skupples

valid, I purchased my units directly from them, so they always came pre-loaded up to date.

the AQ6 is quite old now, it's completely plausible for an Amazon vendor to be selling units older than 2 years. That's also something easy for him to verify on their site, with the serial thing (if I'm thinking of the right system)

he should be able to get all of this info from their website, production date, stepping, etc. 

time for escalation to their site, instead of just Q/A here.


----------



## 414347

If that's the case I'm sure if he reach out to AQ they will give him license and go from there.

I have 3 Aquaero's 6XT that are about 2-3 years old and I have never used them, they are still in boxes, so they still have old firmware, I'm sure when or if I would to install them and try to install aquasuite I would have to get license to take the full advantage of both aquaero and aquasuite or I might be facing the same issue which I'm sure if he would talk to AQ directly they would help him.


----------



## valvehead

The first thing I would do is check to see if the AQ6 is showing up in Device Manager. If Windows doesn't see it, then neither will Aquasuite.

In Device Manager goto View -> Devices by container. The AQ6 should show up under "aquaero" as multiple USB/HID devices.


----------



## 414347

valvehead said:


> The first thing I would do is check to see if the AQ6 is showing up in Device Manager. If Windows doesn't see it, then neither will Aquasuite.
> 
> In Device Manager goto View -> Devices by container. The AQ6 should show up under "aquaero" as multiple USB/HID devices.
> 
> View attachment 273414


I'm not sure if he's on Win 10 or 7, but keep in mind, on Win 7 aquaero will not show so that won't reflect or indicate whether any of the AQ has hardware issue


----------



## Shawnb99

The Aquaero can be very frustrating to set up, I know I've had nothing but trouble, now it's not detecting my Aquabus X4 and not reading anything connected to the Aquabus. I've had Quadros not work, broke at least 10 cables so far damn flimsy things , but when it's finally working just the way I want it you can't beat it. 

It's not user friendly at all but support is quick to help and over time you will learn how to use it. After using it I can't go back to letting my MB control the fans.


----------



## Pinnacle Fit

Shawnb99 said:


> The Aquaero can be very frustrating to set up, I know I've had nothing but trouble, now it's not detecting my Aquabus X4 and not reading anything connected to the Aquabus. I've had Quadros not work, broke at least 10 cables so far damn flimsy things , but when it's finally working just the way I want it you can't beat it.
> 
> 
> 
> It's not user friendly at all but support is quick to help and over time you will learn how to use it. After using it I can't go back to letting my MB control the fans.




I really do appreciate the empathy I’ve received on this group. I expected to be called an idiot (not literally), and to be called the exception and not the norm (which I’m willing to acknowledge) 

I know this is a great tool when it works. I had hoped to experience, but it doesn’t make sense to go this route for me. My Mobo fan controller isn’t the best, but it’s not worse than the one on Asus’s ROG. I was using a lamptron before but I was enticed to this one just because of the connectivity to aquasuite, and the PWM functionality. I can’t use the former, and the lamptron was $80 for me. This just isn’t worth it *for me*...
You could say the same about watercooling too honestly for some people but I’m willing to cut my costs/losses at some point. These controllers are going back to amazon, but perhaps when they fix their software or come up with a new version, etc, perhaps I’ll give it another look. 

The C/B analysis doesn’t pan out here for me. 




Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## VeritronX

So how would this new liscencing thing affect me? I have a poweradjust 2 ultra sitting on the shelf I want to use and there's no point if I can't use software to set it up for the new fan config.

I think I used the older aquasuite when I first got it and 2018 version last time I had it in a build.. which I think was about two and a bit years ago?


----------



## looniam

https://licensing.aquacomputer.de/shop/aquasuite


Spoiler






> *What is the update service for?*
> The update service provides access to the respectively latest version of the aquasuite software.
> 
> *Can I use my devices without purchasing the update service?*
> Yes! In the setup of the aquasuite software you always have access to a free version.
> Newly purchased devices always include an update service. The duration of the service begins with the start of the aquasuite software or its setup.
> 
> *My update service has expired, do I have to buy or extend it?*
> No! You can continue to use and reinstall the aquasuite version that was current on the expiration date of your update service.
> If you want to use a newer version of the aquasuite, you must purchase the update service or connect a device with an active update service.
> 
> *Do I need the update service for each device?*
> No! It is sufficient if only one of the devices connected via USB has a valid update service for the currently used aquasuite version.
> The status of the other devices is irrelevant in this case.
> 
> How long is the update service valid?
> The runtime included with newly purchased devices depends on the device type and is 6 to 30 months. The runtime begins with the start of the aquasuite software or its setup.
> If the update service is purchased separately, the runtime is 12 months and begins with receipt of the key.
> You can view the exact runtime of your update service in the "Updates" tab of the aquasuite software.
> 
> Where is the runtime of the update service stored?
> The runtime is stored online and is linked to the serial number of a device.
> When purchasing a key, you can choose which device will be linked to it.
> Please note that when you sell this device for example, the update service will go with this device.
> 
> *Do I need a permanent Internet connection to use the aquasuite software?*
> No! You only need an Internet connection during the installation and activation of your devices.
> As long as you do not add new Aqua Computer USB devices, update or reinstall the software, the Internet connection is no longer required.
> 
> *What happens if I remove devices from the PC?*
> If you remove the only or last device with a valid update service for the currently installed aquasuite version, the software remains activated and usable.
> Only when you add new Aqua Computer USB devices, update or reinstall the software, a device with an appropriate update service is required again.
> Otherwise a license must be purchased.
> 
> *Why does the setup show me only certain versions for download?*
> At startup, the setup checks the status of the update service of all devices detected via USB.
> If the update service of at least one device includes the latest aquasuite version, only this version will be offered for download.
> If none of the devices has a suitable update service for the latest aquasuite version, the setup also offers the last or highest version that is covered by the update service of the devices.
> 
> *What happens when using old devices, such as the aquaero 4.00?*
> If devices which are only compatible with the aquasuite 4.72 are recognized, this version is available free of charge during the setup in the selection.
> 
> I have a problem or more questions.
> Please contact [email protected] by e-mail.






fwiw i got my AQ used, well i won it in late 2016 (tnx TCO!) and it has a licence until 2017.

last year i reinstall windows and got a error about updating to 2018. sorta freaked out and did a little looking around for awhile. restarted aquasuite and not sure what i did but it accepted my 2017 license and ran ok. in the meantime, what was programmed in the unit itself previously was working/remembered.

i do have a simple set up, two temps sensors (fluid and ambient) to run fans on temp delta (controller) and pump off of cpu temps. and since i have a uniblock on the gpu - a 80mm fan controlled w/temp sensor on the VRMs

*no other devices.*


----------



## war4peace

It shouldn't matter when you bought the device, the licensing starts when you first plug it in and install Aquasuite. Now, if that device was tested or used before, it would have an expired license.
When I would check:
1. is the USB cable connected correctly (pinout on the mobo header)?
2. Is one of the USB wires plugged out for some reason?
3. is the cable good (check for continuity)?


----------



## 414347

Shawnb99 said:


> The Aquaero can be very frustrating to set up, I know I've had nothing but trouble, now it's not detecting my Aquabus X4 and not reading anything connected to the Aquabus. I've had Quadros not work, broke at least 10 cables so far damn flimsy things , but when it's finally working just the way I want it you can't beat it.
> 
> It's not user friendly at all but support is quick to help and over time you will learn how to use it. After using it I can't go back to letting my MB control the fans.


Speaking of frustration  One of my poweradjust 3 ultra just started outputting 11V-11.3V rather than 12V like it did for years and now its messing up my front intake fans that are set to run in "set point control mode" time to get new Poweradjust 3 ultra.

This can be frustrating and I'm sure to some people discouraging, no doubt.

Aquacomputer makes great hardware, but if your system it's a bit more complex and you have a lot of their hardware and you have issue.... that can be tricky to deal with.


----------



## rolandos582

When it comes to flow sensors, what calibration value do you guys use? All of them give a different readout and I have a hard time understanding how it works. Is there an article about this to see what values you enter and which ones are correct?
I'm using 2x Aqua-Computer Flow sensor (Aqua-Computer (electronic) Flow Meter G1/4 (High Flow)) + 13/10 tubing.


----------



## 414347

rolandos582 said:


> When it comes to flow sensors, what calibration value do you guys use? All of them give a different readout and I have a hard time understanding how it works.
> I'm using 2x Aqua-Computer Flow sensor (Aqua-Computer (electronic) Flow Meter G1/4 (High Flow))


If its the USB High flow, you don't calibrate them, when you use the drop down menu, which should automatically detect your meter it will set its value automatically, I would leave it at default


----------



## Barefooter

GTXJackBauer said:


> Amazing but unfortunately I can't see the images which is odd. Not sure if using FireFox matters.
> 
> I just tested it with Google Chrome and Microsoft Edge and both don't show images.



I fixed the image issue on my Aquaero & Aquasuite Software Setup Guide

You should be able to see all the images on any browser now.


----------



## GTXJackBauer

Barefooter said:


> I fixed the image issue on my Aquaero & Aquasuite Software Setup Guide
> 
> You should be able to see all the images on any browser now.



Fanfreakintastic! Thank you sir. Granted I don't really need it but for new comers it will be great. I might need to brush my memory a bit from time to time hence why I'll be printing this out in PDF format for safe keeping. :thumb:


----------



## rolandos582

NewUser16 said:


> If its the USB High flow, you don't calibrate them, when you use the drop down menu, which should automatically detect your meter it will set its value automatically, I would leave it at default


It's not, I have the old version that's being plugged in the Aquaero 6 XT, this one. Not the newer one with USB.


----------



## 414347

GTXJackBauer said:


> Fanfreakintastic! Thank you sir. Granted I don't really need it but for new comers it will be great. I might need to brush my memory a bit from time to time hence why I'll be printing this out in PDF format for safe keeping. :thumb:


I'm sure at least old boys like myself that have been dealing with Aquacomputer for years and we think we know all that, we will still end up relay on this sooner or later. 

I've been issue free at lest major issue with AQ hardware for a while but I know that my memory its getting flaky so this will be come very handy sooner or later


----------



## skupples

yeah, the high-flow should just work... mine always have.


----------



## GTXJackBauer

Same here. Basically plug and play. Just make sure you plug it in into the Flow header in the back of the AQ with the specialized cable for that flow meter since unfortunately it isn't included.


----------



## war4peace

Same here, I never used any calibration for it. Just out of curiosity I just went and changed the calibration to High Flow and the reported value didn't change.


----------



## Barefooter

GTXJackBauer said:


> Fanfreakintastic! Thank you sir. Granted I don't really need it but for new comers it will be great. I might need to brush my memory a bit from time to time hence why *I'll be printing this out in PDF format for safe keeping*. :thumb:


I wished I had done that with Nam's guide, it's just gone now I could not find it any place.

That was the idea to put a guide together for the new comers. I'm sure I spent more than forty hours putting it all together with over 7,300 words, and 67 images!

I would ask @IT Diva to add it to the OP, but it's more than five years old now, so editing is probably locked out by now.


----------



## rolandos582

But there's no way, when I put my flow meters on Aqua Computer High Flow I get about 180 l/h on 50% pump. with 100% pump i'm getting 300 l/h+ on both my loops. That seems a bit unrealistic? The other settings give about 110-120 l/h which makes a bit more sense. 

Aquacomputer said the following to me in email contact :
I would say something about up to 200 l/h should be possible with this pump.

340 l/h is something we only reached in simple loops with just the reservoir and flow sensor but no blocks or radiators.


----------



## 414347

rolandos582 said:


> But there's no way, when I put my flow meters on Aqua Computer High Flow I get about 180 l/h on 50% pump. with 100% pump i'm getting 300 l/h+ on both my loops. That seems a bit unrealistic? The other settings give about 110-120 l/h which makes a bit more sense.
> 
> Aquacomputer said the following to me in email contact :
> I would say something about up to 200 l/h should be possible with this pump.
> 
> 340 l/h is something we only reached in simple loops with just the reservoir and flow sensor but no blocks or radiators.


Maybe you need to make small adjustments but the flow you indicating is very possible so don't think that you flow reads wrong values, it might but it might not at all. 

180L/h on half speed of the pump its very realistic, it all depends on the loop and blocks.

I'm not in a front of your system, but I don't think you can even compare high-end systems size and complexity to mine, there might be few but mine is beyond average high-end and I get 110-120 l/h with pump set on 45% - 2100rpm and on full speed I get 210 l/h and slightly above. 

Both of my loops are design identical with exactly the same amount of hardware 2x HL Nemesis and so on so forth and tubing except it has only CPU block and I'm getting pretty much the same reading, maybe slightly higher by few L.

And again, that is on single loop with 3 GPU blocks, 1 High-speed USB meter, 2x 480 HL Nemesis, additional D5 pumps that don't run, they are only for redundancy and bleeding purpose and a ton and I mean ton of hard tubing and the distance of the loop is enormous..so in short, yes its possible.


----------



## rolandos582

NewUser16 said:


> Maybe you need to make small adjustments but the flow you indicating is very possible so don't think that you flow reads wrong values, it might but it might not at all.
> 
> 180L/h on half speed of the pump its very realistic, it all depends on the loop and blocks.
> 
> I'm not in a front of your system, but I don't think you can even compare high-end systems size and complexity to mine, there might be few but mine is beyond average high-end and I get 110-120 l/h with pump set on 45% - 2100rpm and on full speed I get 210 l/h and slightly above.
> 
> Both of my loops are design identical with exactly the same amount of hardware and tubing except it has only CPU block and I'm getting pretty much the same reading, maybe slightly higher by few L.
> 
> And again, that is on single loop with 3 GPU blocks, 1 High-speed USB meter, 2x 480 HL Nemesis, additional D5 pumps that don't run, they are only for redundancy and bleeding purpose and a ton and I mean ton of hard tubing and the distance of the loop is enormous..so in short, yes its possible.


Hmm, but how do you determine if it's realistic or not?
I'm using a Caselabs SMA8 with 2 seperate loops. 1 loop has a Alphacool 60mm 560 rad with 2 GPU's and the other loop has a Alphacool 60mm 480 rad with a cpu (I got rid of the watercooled SSD) and the loops are decently long since it's a big case. I'm just not sure what a realistic number is.


----------



## Shawnb99

233L/H here at 50% pump speed. Though that's what the High flow one is reading, I have the 400 MBS one, never calibrated, and it reads 270L/H. Then again the high flow one doesn't have the best routing of tubing so could be throwing it off.


----------



## looniam

is there any guidelines or rule of thumb or whatever to get any sort of clue what the flow rate is w/o a flow meter?

i understand a loop with a lot of 90s and such can sometimes drastically affect it and right now i have a 50%/20c-100%/50c and it i seems to work great but . . maybe i am missing something in reviews? can i read those flowrate/headpressure charts better?

more of just wondering than anything.


----------



## war4peace

rolandos582 said:


> But there's no way, when I put my flow meters on Aqua Computer High Flow I get about 180 l/h on 50% pump. with 100% pump i'm getting 300 l/h+ on both my loops. That seems a bit unrealistic? The other settings give about 110-120 l/h which makes a bit more sense.


As you can see in my real time signature I have 330 l/h on a rather large loop (monoblock, 2x GPU waterblocks and a MoRa located externally), but there are two D5 pumps in series connected through an EKWB volute. With one pump disabled I am getting 240 l/h, so entirely possible.


----------



## 414347

Well, that's where I can only assume that the reading is more/less accurate and if its slightly one way or the other it won't matter.

It depends on what you use the reading for, if it's just for your info and nothing less as long is your temps are OK and you can see the water flow is decent and you can determine the flow pressure then that shouldn't really matter. 

I use flow reading for Aquaero's alarm setups, nothing more. If the flow gets below my pre-set limit, my system will responds accordingly, it will either activate additional pumps or put system to standby or shot off.


----------



## rolandos582

war4peace said:


> As you can see in my real time signature I have 330 l/h on a rather large loop (monoblock, 2x GPU waterblocks and a MoRa located externally), but there are two D5 pumps in series connected through an EKWB volute. With one pump disabled I am getting 240 l/h, so entirely possible.


Hmm yeah, but that's 2 pumps combined. Those are obviously a bit different, my pumps are seperate. Because I wanted 2 different colours! 

The strange thing is,
These are the results from 1 flow meter :
High flow = 175 l/h ---> (Calibration value = 169)
Digmesa 5.6 mm = 115 l/h ---> (Calibration value = 256)
Digmesa 3.3 mm = 58 l/h ---> (Calibration value = 509)
Aquaduct mark 4/mark 5 = 128 l/h ---> (Calibration value = 230)

Like how can you even determine which ones of these is correct? There must be something that you can use to calculate or something.



NewUser16 said:


> Well, that's where I can only assume that the reading is more/less accurate and if its slightly one way or the other it won't matter.
> 
> It depends on what you use the reading for, if it's just for your info and nothing less as long is your temps are OK and you can see the water flow is decent and you can determine the flow pressure then that shouldn't really matter.
> 
> I use flow reading for Aquaero's alarm setups, nothing more. If the flow gets below my pre-set limit, my system will responds accordingly, it will either activate additional pumps or put system to standby or shot off.


Alarm and fan curves and stuff yeah. I'm trying to get into it and use it to it's full efficiency. But if you put the wrong values in, you don't know if you need to adjust or add more pumps or something.


----------



## 414347

rolandos582 said:


> Hmm yeah, but that's 2 pumps combined. Those are obviously a bit different, my pumps are seperate. Because I wanted 2 different colours!
> 
> The strange thing is,
> These are the results from 1 flow meter :
> High flow = 175 l/h ---> (Calibration value = 169)
> Digmesa 5.6 mm = 115 l/h ---> (Calibration value = 256)
> Digmesa 3.3 mm = 58 l/h ---> (Calibration value = 509)
> Aquaduct mark 4/mark 5 = 128 l/h ---> (Calibration value = 230)
> 
> Like how can you even determine which ones of these is correct? There must be something that you can use to calculate or something.
> 
> 
> Alarm and fan curves and stuff yeah. I'm trying to get into it and use it to it's full efficiency. But if you put the wrong values in, you don't know if you need to adjust or add more pumps or something.


Yes, it's important to get accurate info if it's going to be used in certain settings of your hardware/software configuration to benefit your systems in every and any possible way, even then, like I said few L one way or the other won't make significant difference.

Other than that...hmmmm, unless you temporarily connect somewhere on your loops line another, maybe commercial flow reader just to compare the readouts, you cannot be 100% sure.


----------



## rolandos582

NewUser16 said:


> Yes, it's important to get accurate info if it's going to be used in certain settings of your hardware/software configuration to benefit your systems in every and any possible way, even then, like I said few L one way or the other won't make significant difference.
> 
> Other than that...hmmmm, unless you temporarily connect somewhere on your loops line another, maybe commercial flow reader just to compare the readouts, you cannot be 100% sure.


I guess it comes down to these calibration values, I'm not too sure what works for what flow meter etc. And I can't read about it anywhere, it's strange that they all give a readout and different answers but there's no info on which ones to use in what situation ;(

Shoutout to this guy for an awesome Aquaero/Aquasuite setup guide, helped me alot and very detailed! Post #512 : https://www.overclock.net/forum/180...10-custom-powder-coating-52.html#post27979144


----------



## Moose-Tech

Barefooter said:


> I fixed the image issue on my Aquaero & Aquasuite Software Setup Guide
> 
> You should be able to see all the images on any browser now.


SWEET! Thank You!


----------



## Moose-Tech

looniam said:


> is there any guidelines or rule of thumb or whatever to get any sort of clue what the flow rate is w/o a flow meter?
> 
> i understand a loop with a lot of 90s and such can sometimes drastically affect it and right now i have a 50%/20c-100%/50c and it i seems to work great but . . maybe i am missing something in reviews? can i read those flowrate/headpressure charts better?
> 
> more of just wondering than anything.


At 60% pump RPM I get 67 l/h

At 100% pump RPM I get 260 l/h

I have a single EKWB D5 PWM Pump, 1x CPU block, 1x GPU block, 1x Visual Flow Meter, one AquaComputer "High Flow" sensor, 7x 90 degree angles, 1x 45 degree angles and 1x double 45 rotary angle in the loop.


----------



## Moose-Tech

Hello Everyone.

I have made a few comments among the group so I thought I would introduce myself.

I am a Noob to both the AquaComputer/Aquaero and also the Custom WC Loops communities. This is both my first custom loop and my first AquaComputer build. In regards to both, this has been one he!! of a learning experience. I only read through the last 80 pages of this forum, so I don't know everything. I am looking forward to learning more stuff.

Something I seen noted by several members (and/or just re-quoted) was to read ALL THE WAY through the manual. 
SO DARN TRUE! {Angels singing in background}!

It took me a while to get my fan curves and sensors set-up, but finally everything seems to be pretty good. I have control over everything I need to.

I got a Vision Touch display in an eBay purchase and decided to move it outside my case (which required a separate cable purchase PC partspicker AQ-53213). I got some neat stuff from work when we were throwing out old gaming machines. I got an old 760mm acrylic ball and decided to add the Vision Touch display to it.

I cut off a big flat spot on the bottom and polished it flat with an orbital sander. Then I cut off a smaller flat spot about 45 degrees off the bottom flat spot. I then drilled a 150mm hole all the way through the back of that flat spot and then polished that spot flat with the orbital sander. I added a smaller drilled out 4mm tube to back outside the ball on the side to hold my Vision 5 cm Ambient Temp sensor away from all surfaces.

I recently played around with my RGB LED Controller and picked up the AquaComputer single 5mm RGB LED (34930) and set it run off my Ambient to Loop Delta temp. I mounted the RGB LED into a 4.5mm hole I drilled into the Acrylic Ball and it looks great. When I am gaming not only can I see the Vision data quickly, but the RGB ball tells me by color where my approximate loop temp is. 

Temp range displayed is Dark Blue at 1 degree of Loop Delta_T to Green, to Yellow, and finally Deep Red at 16 degrees of Loop Delta_T.
BTW - Frosted Acrylic shows the color much better. All you need to do to frost acrylic is sand it it with a fine soft sanding block


----------



## GTXJackBauer

Very cool! Great DIY and thanks for sharing that with us.

I also use my RGB LEDs inside my case to change colors based on my aqua temp via calitemp probe.

Don't forget a member here recently posted and updated a guide so you don't have to go through all the troubles of reading so many pages.


----------



## war4peace

rolandos582 said:


> Hmm yeah, but that's 2 pumps combined. Those are obviously a bit different, my pumps are seperate. Because I wanted 2 different colours!


Please note I said that with one pump disabled (so only one pump active) I got 240l/h measured.
This value is backed up by the power dissipation measurement embedded within Aquasuite which I am using and the dissipated power is consistent with what I am seeing from the power measurement device I have in my power outlet. The heat dissipation average calculated in Aquasuite is slightly higher than the one shown by the power measurement device, but the difference is normal since my radiator is huge (MoRa 420).



rolandos582 said:


> The strange thing is,
> These are the results from 1 flow meter :
> High flow = 175 l/h ---> (Calibration value = 169)
> Digmesa 5.6 mm = 115 l/h ---> (Calibration value = 256)
> Digmesa 3.3 mm = 58 l/h ---> (Calibration value = 509)
> Aquaduct mark 4/mark 5 = 128 l/h ---> (Calibration value = 230)
> 
> Like how can you even determine which ones of these is correct? There must be something that you can use to calculate or something.


Flow is calculated using the diameter of the holes the liquid goes through and the rotation count of the little impeller within the flow meter. The High Flow device has largest holes, therefore it would have the highest value. If you have a High Flow meter, use the High Flow setting and you're done.


----------



## GTXJackBauer

Don't forget for those that still have a license, they tweaked a few things and created Aquasuite X.

Hopefully it's not much different from that guide that was posted and it doesn't seem as such since updating it.


----------



## Barefooter

Moose-Tech said:


> Snip
> 
> I got a Vision Touch display in an eBay purchase and decided to move it outside my case (which required a separate cable purchase PC partspicker AQ-53213). I got some neat stuff from work when we were throwing out old gaming machines. I got an old 760mm acrylic ball and decided to add the Vision Touch display to it.
> 
> I cut off a big flat spot on the bottom and polished it flat with an orbital sander. Then I cut off a smaller flat spot about 45 degrees off the bottom flat spot. I then drilled a 150mm hole all the way through the back of that flat spot and then polished that spot flat with the orbital sander. I added a smaller drilled out 4mm tube to back outside the ball on the side to hold my Vision 5 cm Ambient Temp sensor away from all surfaces.
> 
> I recently played around with my RGB LED Controller and picked up the AquaComputer single 5mm RGB LED (34930) and set it run off my Ambient to Loop Delta temp. I mounted the RGB LED into a 4.5mm hole I drilled into the Acrylic Ball and it looks great. When I am gaming not only can I see the Vision data quickly, but the RGB ball tells me by color where my approximate loop temp is.
> 
> Temp range displayed is Dark Blue at 1 degree of Loop Delta_T to Green, to Yellow, and finally Deep Red at 16 degrees of Loop Delta_T.
> BTW - Frosted Acrylic shows the color much better. All you need to do to frost acrylic is sand it it with a fine soft sanding block



That is very cool and creative!


Gave you your first Rep+ for that :thumb:


----------



## rolandos582

So what port do you guys use for your pumps? I'm using a FAN port right now but is there any other ports u can use for the Aquacomputer PWM pumps?


----------



## InfoSeeker

rolandos582 said:


> So what port do you guys use for your pumps? I'm using a FAN port right now but is there any other ports u can use for the Aquacomputer PWM pumps?



Nope, Fan ports 1, 2, 3 & 4 are the only ports for PWM fans & pumps.
The other two ports marked PWM to the left of the fan ports are NOT to control fans or pumps.


----------



## rolandos582

InfoSeeker said:


> Nope, Fan ports 1, 2, 3 & 4 are the only ports for PWM fans & pumps.
> The other two ports marked PWM to the left of the fan ports are NOT to control fans or pumps.


Yeah kinda weird, they should enable them imo. Since the PWM pumps only require 2 cables so it would be perfect for 2 pumps. Now I have 3 splitty9's and the pumps together so I have 4 fan spots. But I wanna control the pumps seperate.


----------



## 414347

rolandos582 said:


> So what port do you guys use for your pumps? I'm using a FAN port right now but is there any other ports u can use for the Aquacomputer PWM pumps?


FYI.

This might be useful if you ran out of PWM headers!

Depending of your setup and amount of fans and how independently you want your fans or pumps to run from one another , you can add PA3 as a additional channel(s)

And this is the nice part, even thou PA3 doesn't support PWM you can still set it in "Set Control Point" mode, make few tweaks, take your readings from either AQ service or other supported monitoring software and feed that to PA3.

This mode won't function in PWM mode, but the way it works is that aquasuite will try to hold your target value that you set and there is also function within the setting that you can adjust for the fans or pump to run in saddle mode or more aggressive mode to keep the target value, its a very nice function and I'm not sure if many users are aware of.

This is useful for either rad or case fans if you run out of Aquaeros PWM fans.


----------



## Shawnb99

NewUser16 said:


> FYI.
> 
> This might be useful if you ran out of PWM headers!
> 
> Depending of your setup and amount of fans and how independently you want your fans or pumps to run from one another , you can add PA3 as a additional channel(s)
> 
> And this is the nice part, even thou PA3 doesn't support PWM you can still set it in "Set Control Point" mode, make few tweaks, take your readings from either AQ service or other supported monitoring software and feed that to PA3.
> 
> This mode won't function in PWM mode, but the way it works is that aquasuite will try to hold your target value that you set and there is also function within the setting that you can adjust for the fans or pump to run in saddle mode or more aggressive mode to keep the target value, its a very nice function and I'm not sure if many users are aware of.
> 
> This is useful for either rad or case fans if you run out of Aquaeros PWM fans.


Quadros are the new improved version of the PA3's. Only drawback is you can only connect 2 to the Aquaero, if you want more they have to be just USB only.


----------



## rolandos582

Shawnb99 said:


> Quadros are the new improved version of the PA3's. Only drawback is you can only connect 2 to the Aquaero, if you want more they have to be just USB only.


How is the Quadro different to the Splitty9? If you're only doing it for fans/pumps?


----------



## Shawnb99

rolandos582 said:


> How is the Quadro different to the Splitty9? If you're only doing it for fans/pumps?


Splitty9 is just a fan/Aqubus splitter. The Quadro is it's own 4 channel fan controller, 4 temp sensors, flow meter, RGBpx LED output. With adding 2 of them to the Aquaero you can have 12 fan channels.


----------



## rolandos582

Shawnb99 said:


> Splitty9 is just a fan/Aqubus splitter. The Quadro is it's own 4 channel fan controller, 4 temp sensors, flow meter, RGBpx LED output. With adding 2 of them to the Aquaero you can have 12 fan channels.


Ohhh! I see, so it adds channels in the software. Yeah that might be a good additional for me, that way I can also control both my pumps seperately. And you power the Quadro via molex? Hmm that's some good stuff!


----------



## skupples

you can look at the quadro as a satellite branch, if that makes sense. 

connect what you need to it in some far off remote location, then track back to unit/usb header.



rolandos582 said:


> Yeah kinda weird, they should enable them imo. Since the PWM pumps only require 2 cables so it would be perfect for 2 pumps. Now I have 3 splitty9's and the pumps together so I have 4 fan spots. But I wanna control the pumps seperate.


theres' really no need to split your pump control, though you can split the tach to get RPM reads from both. that's how I do it.


----------



## Shawnb99

rolandos582 said:


> Ohhh! I see, so it adds channels in the software. Yeah that might be a good additional for me, that way I can also control both my pumps seperately. And you power the Quadro via molex? Hmm that's some good stuff!


Yep!. Connect them to the Aquaero and you can control them through that, or just connect them via USB and control those 4 channels separate. You might want to look at getting a Hubby7 as well if you don't have one already. Once you start adding up USB devices you'll be glad for having a hub


----------



## rolandos582

Shawnb99 said:


> Yep!. Connect them to the Aquaero and you can control them through that, or just connect them via USB and control those 4 channels separate. You might want to look at getting a Hubby7 as well if you don't have one already. Once you start adding up USB devices you'll be glad for having a hub


Yeah I don't have a hubby7 right now. What does that do? I'm not using any USB headers on my motherboard right now besides the one for my aquaero. I had another one used for a front USB panel but I ditched it since I was never using it. You only need a hubby7 if you start adding a bunch of extra aquacomputer devices? So Aquaero 6 XT + .. ?


----------



## GTXJackBauer

rolandos582 said:


> Yeah I don't have a hubby7 right now. What does that do? I'm not using any USB headers on my motherboard right now besides the one for my aquaero. I had another one used for a front USB panel but I ditched it since I was never using it. You only need a hubby7 if you start adding a bunch of extra aquacomputer devices? So Aquaero 6 XT + .. ?



Hubby7 is a USB hub to connect multiple USB devices on it back to one single USB header on the MB. 

It's similar to the SPLITTY9 with the fans. Both hubs to give you some flexibility.


----------



## Shawnb99

As each Aquacomputer device needs a USB header you quickly run out of ones on the MB. The Hubby7 gives you 7 more.


----------



## rolandos582

Ah right, i'll secure myself one of them! What kind of water temperature sensors do you guys use that work with the aquaero? I'm trying to get a hold of one but I don't have that many spots to mount them. Where do you guys place them?

Aquacomputer got a few I see :
https://shop.aquacomputer.de/product_info.php?products_id=2291
https://shop.aquacomputer.de/product_info.php?products_id=3126


----------



## 414347

rolandos582 said:


> Ah right, i'll secure myself one of them! What kind of water temperature sensors do you guys use that work with the aquaero? I'm trying to get a hold of one but I don't have that many spots to mount them. Where do you guys place them?
> 
> Aquacomputer got a few I see :
> https://shop.aquacomputer.de/product_info.php?products_id=2291
> https://shop.aquacomputer.de/product_info.php?products_id=3126


Usually 1 goes in and 1 out the rad and I don't mean one of each (kidding). The inline G1/4 is nice and fairly accurate but its personal preference.


----------



## 414347

Shawnb99 said:


> Quadros are the new improved version of the PA3's. Only drawback is you can only connect 2 to the Aquaero, if you want more they have to be just USB only.


Well, that would have been game changer if Quadro was available years ago and since I needed 7x additional channels 2 of Quadros could have been enough, but now since I have 7 PA3 Ultra in my system and 4 additional brand new as a spare I'm set for a while

I'm wondering, why is the price of Quadro which has 4x PWM channels the same as Poweradjust 3 Ultra, which has only single and none PWM channel


----------



## Shawnb99

I think it's the same price cause it's the successor to the PA3's. There's really no need to buy a Power Adjust at all now with the Quadro's. Just be away the connector on them are tiny and the cables are VERY easy to break.


----------



## 414347

Shawnb99 said:


> I think it's the same price cause it's the successor to the PA3's. There's really no need to buy a Power Adjust at all now with the Quadro's. Just be away the connector on them are tiny and the cables are VERY easy to break.


I had my PA3's for years and they work great. I use 4 of them for 4x of my D5 pump via voltage, 2 of them for 8 fans and 1 for LED, then I have all 4 PWM Aquaeros channels for 4x radiators.

For me I wouldn't really benefit from quadros, at least for now, new customers, yes. Smaller footprint 4 channels on one unit, rather than 4 separate PA3 units and instead of daisy chaining all PA3's which adds up to quite a bit of wires, all you need 2 wires really and on top of that, If you need PWM here you go.

Maybe one day I might consider but for now I'm good. 

You know..if it ain't broke, don't fix it, I will stick with that


----------



## rolandos582

NewUser16 said:


> Usually 1 goes in and 1 out the rad and I don't mean one of each (kidding). The inline G1/4 is nice and fairly accurate but its personal preference.


Hmm do you have them yourself? Could you show me a picture on how you mounted them? Because if you mount them in an empty radiator slot, how does it get the temps? Unless you put it before another fitting?


----------



## 414347

rolandos582 said:


> Hmm do you have them yourself? Could you show me a picture on how you mounted them? Because if you mount them in an empty radiator slot, how does it get the temps? Unless you put it before another fitting?


They are the first close to rads port but it doesn't matter what order you place them, they have very sensitive probes and read very accurate temps I have tested them with laser thermometer and they are spot on with what they show in software

The bottom censors are in - (hot water) the top are cold and they go straight to Aquaeo. I have them on my top rads because the bottom rads are way, way to far for sensors to reach, but it doesn't matter where you place them as long as you have cold and hot spot in and out you good

I know they aren't the best zoomed pictures but you can resize it to see it better. 

I have used these temps senors for about 6-7 years now and not a single issue, the inline might be just as good if not better but they are directly in your liquid and I don't know how long before they would start acting up, maybe never but who knows I use what works for me thou but then again, its personal preference.


----------



## GTXJackBauer

Shawnb99 said:


> I think it's the same price cause it's the successor to the PA3's. There's really no need to buy a Power Adjust at all now with the Quadro's. Just be away the connector on them are tiny and the cables are VERY easy to break.



I think PA's are still relevant because IIRC the QUADRO can only control PWM, that's it, leaving the PA3 for voltage control so they're still both relevant till this day. Maybe I'm confusing it with the new D5 fan header but I think the same applies to the QUADRO.




rolandos582 said:


> Hmm do you have them yourself? Could you show me a picture on how you mounted them? Because if you mount them in an empty radiator slot, how does it get the temps? Unless you put it before another fitting?



Just use the temp probe that allows the flow of water through it like the CaliTemp which I use and 2 similar probes and than add the fitting.


I should note, I also use plumbers tape on all my fittings for added security.


----------



## war4peace

rolandos582 said:


> Yeah kinda weird, they should enable them imo. Since the PWM pumps only require 2 cables so it would be perfect for 2 pumps. Now I have 3 splitty9's and the pumps together so I have 4 fan spots. But I wanna control the pumps seperate.


They are enabled but they are only for PWM LEDs (which Aquacomputer also sells)



rolandos582 said:


> Ah right, i'll secure myself one of them! What kind of water temperature sensors do you guys use that work with the aquaero? I'm trying to get a hold of one but I don't have that many spots to mount them. Where do you guys place them?
> 
> Aquacomputer got a few I see :
> https://shop.aquacomputer.de/product_info.php?products_id=2291
> https://shop.aquacomputer.de/product_info.php?products_id=3126


While I don't use Aquacomputer branded sensors (except for the flat ones which came with the Aquaero), the way I use them is this:

- one G1/4 sensor located at the liquid entry point in the radiator (highest liquid temperature spot)
- one G1/4 sensor located at the liquid exit point from the radiator (lowest liquid temperature spot)

Having those and a flow meter measurement, I can have Aquasuite calculate power dissipation for my radiator.


----------



## rolandos582

I see, ideally you want 4 water temp sensors? in and outtake for both radiators? 
And then you have a few normal tempetature sensors, do you just use those for ambient, intake and outtake air tempetature?

Sorry for all these questions boys! I've been watercooling for about 2.5 years now but so many things are still new to me!

EDIT : nvm, you just use the sensors ofcourse.


----------



## Shawnb99

rolandos582 said:


> I see, ideally you want 4 water temp sensors? in and outtake for both radiators?
> And then you have a few normal tempetature sensors, do you just use those for ambient, intake and outtake air tempetature?
> 
> Sorry for all these questions boys! I've been watercooling for about 2.5 years now but so many things are still new to me!
> 
> EDIT : nvm, you just use the sensors ofcourse.


You really don't need more then 2 temp sensors. Difference between them will likely be under 1 degree. Yeah you'd also want at least 1 normal temp sensor for the ambient temps. You can go as crazy as you want for the rest.
You just want to know the difference between the water temps and the ambient temps.


----------



## rolandos582

Shawnb99 said:


> You really don't need more then 2 temp sensors. Difference between them will likely be under 1 degree. Yeah you'd also want at least 1 normal temp sensor for the ambient temps. You can go as crazy as you want for the rest.
> You just want to know the difference between the water temps and the ambient temps.


Yeah I already have got like 4 normal temps. I got 2 seperate loops, would you still go for 2 temp sensors?


----------



## GTXJackBauer

For example, I run 2 air temp probes up top between the intake rad and filtered top and one in the front to calculate all the cooler intake ambient air. I than run two cali temp probes and two older temp probes since they didn't want to separate themselves from my fittings so I said the heck with it and kept them in the loop so tech I have 4 water temp probes along with the 3 air temp probes. I also have a High Flow Meter from AC as well. I'll average the temps and have different section of delta temps in the software under the Sensors Tab>Virtual Temp Sensor Tab and go from there just to see the changes from time to time or through my phone since you could monitor your PC away from it through the software to see what's going on but you can't do any controls unless you have the alarms set which I do based on temps while I used to have it for flow included but it got risky when one of the two pumps died and I was at that threshold where my PC could have been giving me issues because of it when I thought it was something else not realizing one of my two pumps had given up on me or it just could have been another issue unrelated but couldn't figure it where the issues were starting from as I eventually got my PC working again. So no flow alarm from me, just temp. 

Sorry for the wall of text. lol


----------



## 414347

Shawnb99 said:


> You really don't need more then 2 temp sensors. Difference between them will likely be under 1 degree. Yeah you'd also want at least 1 normal temp sensor for the ambient temps. You can go as crazy as you want for the rest.
> You just want to know the difference between the water temps and the ambient temps.


Yap...technically hot temp value it's all you need, unless you want to play with virtual temperatures and use their values for other purpose but it's nice to know delta so room and maybe case temp it's nice to have.

My ambient its always between 21-22C my delta of both CPU and GPU's loops is always 2C at MAX and system is dead silent regardless of the load and my system is pretty much 90% of the time under 100% computation load


----------



## 414347

GTXJackBauer said:


> I think PA's are still relevant because IIRC the QUADRO can only control PWM, that's it, leaving the PA3 for voltage control so they're still both relevant till this day. Maybe I'm confusing it with the new D5 fan header but I think the same applies to the QUADRO.


Yap I think PA3's aren't going anywhere for long while just like mechanical HDD's for their good reason

I use PA3's to control my D5 pumps via-voltage only.

The gain of pumps speed going up and down e.g. via PWM, at least to me, it's not worth the sacrifice of the noise level that will come along side and as we all know pumps will produce a different noise level on all speeds so you have to find sweet spot to make it silent.

Also and at least to me due to been able to install PA3 in bezel and front case bay and I know its aesthetic aspect only, but it's one other reason I will stick with PA3 even thou quadros have a lot to offer.


----------



## skupples

uhgggg, why were splittys sold out when I rebuilt my system. 

official - I can't get AQ6XT to recognize these Bitspower SATA powered PWM hubs.

what I mean is - they're running, & reporting RPM... but I can't get the AQ to actually control them.


----------



## rolandos582

NewUser16 said:


> Yap...technically hot temp value it's all you need, unless you want to play with virtual temperatures and use their values for other purpose but it's nice to know delta so room and maybe case temp it's nice to have.
> 
> My ambient its always between 21-22C my delta of both CPU and GPU's loops is always 2C at MAX and system is dead silent regardless of the load and my system is pretty much 90% of the time under 100% computation load


So in that case you would install a water fitting temp sensor in both loops. 1 in the exit of top radiator and 1 in the exit of bottom radiator so I have the hottest temps of both loops? The cables are pretty limited, gonna be a problem to get them in a place and get the cables to the aquaero!


----------



## GTXJackBauer

rolandos582 said:


> So in that case you would install a water fitting temp sensor in both loops. 1 in the exit of top radiator and 1 in the exit of bottom radiator so I have the hottest temps of both loops? The cables are pretty limited, gonna be a problem to get them in a place and get the cables to the aquaero!



A 2-pin extension cable should fix that for ya. I think I've using a few as we speak for the probes that can't reach the back of the AQ6XT.


----------



## 414347

GTXJackBauer said:


> A 2-pin extension cable should fix that for ya. I think I've using a few as we speak for the probes that can't reach the back of the AQ6XT.


If you use ext. cables for AQ temp sensor you might lose the true temp value, how much, I don't know but even if you use e.g. laser thermometer to measure the difference and adjust that value accordingly in aqausuite software to compensate that, this wrong value might keep on reacquiring between these 2 cables.

I don't remember exactly but I think I have acquired that info at AQ forum, It might have been years ago and there is reason why AQ makes theses cables I think 60 or 70cm length only.

I'm sure you can make it work just fine with what is available, which is the length of the cable there is. Get creative, you can even use the flow sensor ( depending on which you have) If you in a process of building, place flow sensor closer to aquaero to reach where it supposed to reach and use the values from there


----------



## GTXJackBauer

NewUser16 said:


> If you use ext. cables for AQ temp sensor you might lose the true temp value, how much, I don't know but even if you use e.g. laser thermometer to measure the difference and adjust that value accordingly in aqausuite software to compensate that, this wrong value might keep on reacquiring between these 2 cables.
> 
> I don't remember exactly but I think I have acquired that info at AQ forum, It might have been years ago and there is reason why AQ makes theses cables I think 60 or 70cm length only.
> 
> I'm sure you can make it work just fine with what is available, which is the length of the cable there is. Get creative, you can even use the flow sensor ( depending on which you have) If you in a process of building, place flow sensor closer to aquaero to reach where it supposed to reach and use the values from there


 The air temp probes have a what, 30cm line? All I do is add another 30cm to it to get it routed back. The longest I MIGHT have one is with 2 extensions on it so in total, it would be 90cm but I'm truly not too worried about that.

I also have the flow sensor cable extended to another 3-pin fan header to reach the AQ since the only placement I could find was at the bottom of a 900D case while the controller is sitting at the 2nd bay of the 4 so it has a way up. I can't remember if I used 1 or 2 extensions on that but my flow with 2 new EK G2 D5 pumps in series compared to two MCP35X in series was almost night and day difference and wondering maybe my values are off because my flow doesn't make any sense. (DDCs @ 40% PWM = 1 GPM / D5s @ 95% PWM = 1 GPM) It degraded substantially from 2 GPUs to 1, from 2 DDCs to 2 D5s and I should note I added a few angles and one 90 degree comes out of the pump to another 90 degree fitting on the rad. I have like 10 angled fittings, 7 being 90 degree and 4 straights, 2 of them being barbs on each side of the flow sensor all the way at the bottom. Mind you, majority of these fittings existed prior with the DDCs at almost half the power for 1 GPM. 

I wonder if it's just my values are off because of the length of the flow sensor as it's impossible for me to move it closer to the controller which is a true bummer.


----------



## war4peace

rolandos582 said:


> Yeah I already have got like 4 normal temps. I got 2 seperate loops, would you still go for 2 temp sensors?


It depends what you want to achieve. I wanted to unlock the full potential of Aquaero and Aquasuite, so I used two sensors for one loop (I only have one loop right now): one for highest liquid temperature and one for the lowest liquid temperature. Combined with flow measurement, it tells you the power dissipation of the radiator.
For two loops you use a pair for each loop, for a total of four sensors.

About cable routing: each sensors has two wires, so with a little handiwork you can have both pairs plug into a PWM cable which you use to route the sensors to the aquaero where you split it back into the pinouts for each sensor. Just remember which wire is which. I have done that because I have an external radiator, and I have two wires going from PC to radiator: one for fans (goes into a splitty9 in the radiator and powers the four 230mm fans) and one for the two sensors (PWM cable, its four wires are used as two separate pairs for the temp sensors).

If you don't care about the power dissipation, you can use one temp sensor for each radiator, just make sure you plug them each where the temperature is highest (radiator liquid inlet). This is enough to allow a set point controller or a curve controoler to be configured.


----------



## 414347

GTXJackBauer said:


> The air temp probes have a what, 30cm line? All I do is add another 30cm to it to get it routed back. The longest I MIGHT have one is with 2 extensions on it so in total, it would be 90cm but I'm truly not too worried about that.
> 
> I also have the flow sensor cable extended to another 3-pin fan header to reach the AQ since the only placement I could find was at the bottom of a 900D case while the controller is sitting at the 2nd bay of the 4 so it has a way up.
> 
> Can't remember if I used 1 or 2 extensions on that but my flow with 2 new D5 pumps compared to a MCP35X2 (DDC x2 in series) was almost night and day difference and wondering maybe my values are off because my flow doesn't make any sense. (DDCs @ 40% PWM = 1 GPM / D5s @ 95% PWM = 1 GPM) It deterred substantially from 2 GPUs to 1, from 2 DDCs to 2 D5s and I should note I added a few angles and one 90 degree comes out of the pump to another 90 degree fitting on the rad. I have like 10 angled fittings, 7 being 90 degree and 4 straights, 2 of them being barbs on each side of the flow sensor all the way at the bottom. Mind you, majority of these fittings existed prior with the DDCs at almost half the power for 1 GPM.
> 
> I wonder if it's just my values are off because of the length of the flow sensor as it's impossible for me to move it closer to the controller which is a true bummer.


It all depends on how meticulous we are and what the values are used for.

Sometimes few C or flow rate one way or the other might not make a huge difference for our purpose, but the struggle to get something the way we wish we could and if its physically impassible, it's not worth it and our second options of modifying things might be the best we can saddle for


----------



## rolandos582

Yeah I think I will just get 2 water temp sensors, I don't need more then that. Then I have a rough idea what the temps are doing. 

I guess the best thing would be to place the AQ in a place where all the cables can reach it. Or I just connect them on the Quadro that i'm about to buy and place that in a different spot.


----------



## rolandos582

GTXJackBauer said:


> I think PA's are still relevant because IIRC the QUADRO can only control PWM, that's it, leaving the PA3 for voltage control so they're still both relevant till this day. Maybe I'm confusing it with the new D5 fan header but I think the same applies to the QUADRO.
> Just use the temp probe that allows the flow of water through it like the CaliTemp which I use and 2 similar probes and than add the fitting.
> 
> 
> I should note, I also use plumbers tape on all my fittings for added security.


Whats the difference between the inline and calitemp?
https://shop.aquacomputer.de/product_info.php?products_id=2291 & https://shop.aquacomputer.de/product_info.php?language=en&products_id=3774


----------



## Leonko

GTXJackBauer said:


> Hubby7 is a USB hub to connect multiple USB devices on it back to one single USB header on the MB.


hm this is really cool. And there is no problem that only 1 USB is going out to MB then ?


----------



## looniam

i'd assume its similar to using an external type C hub.


----------



## GTXJackBauer

rolandos582 said:


> Whats the difference between the inline and calitemp?
> https://shop.aquacomputer.de/product_info.php?products_id=2291 & https://shop.aquacomputer.de/product_info.php?language=en&products_id=3774



The Cali temp is a premium sensor for accuracy. It's a bit more and needs a X4 adapter to be installed on the back of the AQ6.




Leonko said:


> hm this is really cool. And there is no problem that only 1 USB is going out to MB then ?



No problem at all. Technically, the USB on a PC can handle up to 127 devices in total.




looniam said:


> i'd assume its similar to using an external type C hub.



That's a external hub. Not your typical internal for the MB headers and AQ USB devices.


----------



## 414347

GTXJackBauer said:


> No problem at all. Technically, the USB on a PC can handle up to 127 devices in total.


Really? I'm asking with disbelieve. Personally I have never used more then what I have on my M/B but I was always curious about that


----------



## war4peace

NewUser16 said:


> Really? I'm asking with disbelieve. Personally I have never used more then what I have on my M/B but I was always curious about that


Yes, with the mention that each device hub uses up one available port (kind of like a car's driver uses up a place in the car), so for example if you have 50 hubs in a PC, you will be able to connect 77 devices maximum.


----------



## looniam

GTXJackBauer said:


> That's a external hub. Not your typical internal for the MB headers and AQ USB devices.


yes i understand and why i said* similar, external, type C.*


----------



## war4peace

looniam said:


> yes i understand and why i said* similar, external, type C.*


For very low values of "similar". The Hubby 7 is an internal hub, it has pinouts for USB connectivity, not the USB jacks everybody knows. The similarity starts and ends with the word "USB"


----------



## looniam

war4peace said:


> For very low values of "similar". The Hubby 7 is an internal* hub*, it has pinouts for USB connectivity, not the USB jacks everybody knows. The similarity starts and ends with the word "USB"


how about the word *HUB?*

and also,_ it provides the same function_ - adding addition _ports_*.


E:
*excuse me more _connections via headers_. 
for the purpose of answering a general question, that suffices as a general answer. if you want to be anal about, thats on you.


----------



## war4peace

Similarity means they are interchangeable. They are not. It was what I was trying to point out, but if you insist, have it your way


----------



## looniam

?????

no, not at all would that imply interchangeable

that would mean the SAME.


----------



## war4peace

From that point of view, a dual-core Celeron would be similar to a Threadripper 2990WX, wouldn't it?


----------



## looniam

war4peace said:


> From that point of view, a dual-core Celeron would be similar to a Threadripper 2990WX, wouldn't it?


definitions of words do not have a point of view albeit for connotative/context*. btw, go look back at my post - the attach image clearly demonstrates exactly as meant. :thumb:

you can continue arguing semantics with yourself for now on. 

*sorry DENOTATIVE but since not talking poetry here -connotative is out the window.


----------



## rolandos582

GTXJackBauer said:


> The Cali temp is a premium sensor for accuracy. It's a bit more and needs a X4 adapter to be installed on the back of the AQ6.
> 
> .


Ah right, I just ordered the normal ones then. It's not that bad, i just want to have a rough idea on what the water temps are compared to the ambient temps etc.


----------



## Shawnb99

rolandos582 said:


> Ah right, I just ordered the normal ones then. It's not that bad, i just want to have a rough idea on what the water temps are compared to the ambient temps etc.




The calitemps are said to be more accurate but I have both those and the normal ones and rarely see much of a difference. Is at most a few percentage points off


----------



## 414347

war4peace said:


> Yes, with the mention that each device hub uses up one available port (kind of like a car's driver uses up a place in the car), so for example if you have 50 hubs in a PC, you will be able to connect 77 devices maximum.


Thanks


----------



## rolandos582

Im gonna do some sleeving on my aquacomputer d5 pwn. For the pwm signal, would it be best to go for a 2pin or 4pin connector when youre connecting them to a quadro?


----------



## Shawnb99

rolandos582 said:


> Im gonna do some sleeving on my aquacomputer d5 pwn. For the pwm signal, would it be best to go for a 2pin or 4pin connector when youre connecting them to a quadro?


PWM Signal needs a 4 pin cable. 2 pin is for temp sensors


----------



## Barefooter

rolandos582 said:


> Im gonna do some sleeving on my aquacomputer d5 pwn. For the pwm signal, would it be best to go for a 2pin or 4pin connector when youre connecting them to a quadro?


Use a 4 pin connector, and if you put terminals in the two blank cavities of the connector body it helps keep the connector plugged in more firmly :thumb:


----------



## rolandos582

Shawnb99 said:


> rolandos582 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Im gonna do some sleeving on my aquacomputer d5 pwn. For the pwm signal, would it be best to go for a 2pin or 4pin connector when youre connecting them to a quadro?
> 
> 
> 
> PWM Signal needs a 4 pin cable. 2 pin is for temp sensors
Click to expand...




Barefooter said:


> rolandos582 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Im gonna do some sleeving on my aquacomputer d5 pwn. For the pwm signal, would it be best to go for a 2pin or 4pin connector when youre connecting them to a quadro?
> 
> 
> 
> Use a 4 pin connector, and if you put terminals in the two blank cavities of the connector body it helps keep the connector plugged in more firmly /forum/images/smilies/thumb.gif
Click to expand...

Makes sense! Thanks boys!

Is there any limitations that the quadro cant do but the aquaero can? Thought i heard something about that but i cant find it


----------



## Moose-Tech

Barefooter said:


> That is very cool and creative!
> 
> 
> Gave you your first Rep+ for that :thumb:


Thanks!


----------



## Moose-Tech

rolandos582 said:


> I see, ideally you want 4 water temp sensors? in and outtake for both radiators?
> And then you have a few normal tempetature sensors, do you just use those for ambient, intake and outtake air tempetature?
> 
> Sorry for all these questions boys! I've been watercooling for about 2.5 years now but so many things are still new to me!
> 
> EDIT : nvm, you just use the sensors ofcourse.


I was lucky in that my loop worked out so that my flow goes through both of my crossflow radiators before going to my CPU and then GPU.

LOOP TEMP SENSORS: I was able to put one sensor before the rads and one after. I think they were Barrow G1/4 cap sensors that I mounted into a 3 way connector. (RAD IN and RAD OUT)

AMBIENT TEMP SENSOR (Flat K2 sensor): I originally mounted one in front of my intake fans in the front of the case. This worked great until the radiator got hot and the sensor picked up the radiant heat and went up about 3 degrees C. (AMBIENT INTAKE)
I was hoping for a little more accuracy. I already had a Vision touch and ordered the 5cm ambient sensor for that. Since this is mounted outside my case it displays true room ambient. This is the temp I wanted to use. (AMBIENT ROOM)

VIRTUAL SENSORS: I created one to average out my RAD IN and RAD OUT sensors to calculate my average LOOP TEMP.
Then I created one that calculates the difference between AMBIENT ROOM and LOOP TEMP. This one is LOOP DELTA_T.
Then I created one to calculate the difference between my RAD IN and RAD OUT sensors to get an idea how much heat I was removing. This one is RAD DELTA_T. BTW - Biggest diff I seen here was about 1.8 degrees C before the loop stabilized. Then it typically runs about 1 degree C.

I may add one more ambient sensor to the interior of my case just to see what the air temp is like inside.

LOOP DELTA_T is what I am currently using to run my fan curves. 
The biggest Temp difference I seen on the loop was 16.2 degrees C while I was running Furmark 3D at 4K and also running Heavy Load at the same time. In 30 degree C Ambient.
My curves (and my Vision RGB Ball) are based on that max difference.

Good Luck!


----------



## war4peace

Some advice...

1. Setting up fan curves according to various temperatures is always a subjective choice, however choosing the delta T between ambient and average between RAD IN and RAD OUT is a bit strange. That is because both the average between values and the ambient temperature are variable therefore you won't ensure component cooling is consistent. I'm not saying it won't work, but it would not give consistent results unless you have AC on and it controls room ambient very well. Otherwise when your room temperature increases, the components will get hotter because the liquid will get hotter as well. Instead, I would advice you to set up a set point controller which has RAD IN as input and fan speed as output with target value at 40 degrees Celsius.
2. If you have a flow meter you can have Aquasuite calculate radiator power dissipation, handy to determine how well do your radiators dissipate heat.


----------



## InfoSeeker

rolandos582 said:


> Is there any limitations that the quadro cant do but the aquaero can? Thought i heard something about that but i cant find it



The quadro does not do virtual sensors.
But then the aquaero does not do RGBpx.


----------



## Shawnb99

How does the Electronic Temp sensor on the Aquaero work? What temp is it reading?


----------



## Moose-Tech

war4peace said:


> Some advice...
> 
> 1. Setting up fan curves according to various temperatures is always a subjective choice, however choosing the delta T between ambient and average between RAD IN and RAD OUT is a bit strange. That is because both the average between values and the ambient temperature are variable therefore you won't ensure component cooling is consistent. I'm not saying it won't work, but it would not give consistent results unless you have AC on and it controls room ambient very well. Otherwise when your room temperature increases, the components will get hotter because the liquid will get hotter as well. Instead, I would advice you to set up a set point controller which has RAD IN as input and fan speed as output with target value at 40 degrees Celsius.
> 2. If you have a flow meter you can have Aquasuite calculate radiator power dissipation, handy to determine how well do your radiators dissipate heat.


Thanks. I was actually planning on looking into trying out the two point controller for just that reason. I haven't had a chance yet.


----------



## Leonko

guys one more question about Hubby7

There are 8 USB connectors. One on top is to connect Hubby7 and motherboard, right ?

And there are 7 left,... 4 have 5 pin layout and other 3 have 4 pin layour. Is there any difference between them or it doesnt matter to which one i connect devices to ?

thank you


----------



## wheatpaste1999

Leonko said:


> guys one more question about Hubby7
> 
> There are 8 USB connectors. One on top is to connect Hubby7 and motherboard, right ?


Yes



Leonko said:


> And there are 7 left,... 4 have 5 pin layout and other 3 have 4 pin layour. Is there any difference between them or it doesnt matter to which one i connect devices to ?


No difference, just make sure you keep the pins/connectors in the right order for any cables you plug in.


----------



## wheatpaste1999

Shawnb99 said:


> How does the Electronic Temp sensor on the Aquaero work? What temp is it reading?


On an aquaero 6 at least, there are temp sensors for the different internal fan controllers. You can easily see these temps in monitoring software such as HWInfo64. I assume the sensors are there mostly for peace of mind and troubleshooting to make sure the controllers are working correctly. My understanding is that the AQ5 used to get quite warm but the AQ6 generally runs pretty cool.


----------



## Barefooter

wheatpaste1999 said:


> On an aquaero 6 at least, there are temp sensors for the different internal fan controllers. You can easily see these temps in monitoring software such as HWInfo64. I assume the sensors are there mostly for peace of mind and troubleshooting to make sure the controllers are working correctly. My understanding is that the AQ5 used to get quite warm but the AQ6 generally runs pretty cool.


Nothing to worry about temp wise with PWM fans. The voltage controlled fans if turned down low can warm up the fan controllers especially if you are getting close to the maximum wattage limit per channel. The optional heat sink should be all that is necessary, even with a large number of voltage controlled fans.


----------



## Leonko

wheatpaste1999 said:


> Yes
> 
> No difference, just make sure you keep the pins/connectors in the right order for any cables you plug in.


is there any "trick" to how to do it 100% right ? or how do i know that i connected it right ? i just didnt have an oportunity to connect anything to motherboard USB connectors yet, so i dont know. Because when i connect it one way or another (turn it in 180 angle), connector always fits in, right ?


----------



## Barefooter

Leonko said:


> is there any "trick" to how to do it 100% right ? or how do i know that i connected it right ? i just didnt have an oportunity to connect anything to motherboard USB connectors yet, so i dont know. Because when i connect it one way or another (turn it in 180 angle), connector always fits in, right ?


See the little white arrows on the Hubby7, that points to the #1 pin. The connector body of your five pin USB cables will also have a small arrow if you look closely, also the wire should be red.


----------



## Leonko

oh, so this is what RED stands for ... nice  thanks for explanation


----------



## rolandos582

Man these aquacomputer temperature sensor inline G1/4 are giving me headachs. Constant leaks no matter what i do. Im about to screw these sensors and let it be


----------



## 414347

It can be frustrating but you get through it.


----------



## GTXJackBauer

Use some plumbers tape on the threads. Has come to the rescue for me hence why I tape all my threads in the loop for added security. If it still leaks, than there's an issue with threads, maybe crossed? who knows but a replacement should be in order. Don't give up as it will pay off in the long run.


----------



## VeritronX

Question: I know you can work out the watts dissipated with rad in and aout temps and a flow reading, but can the aquaero 6 do that all on it's own? I want to put either an aquaero 6 pro or a PA2/ 3 ultra into a rad box as a standalone controller and I would go with the 6 pro if it could show the watts reading on the screen without any connection to a pc after it's setup.


----------



## InfoSeeker

VeritronX said:


> Question: I know you can work out the watts dissipated with rad in and aout temps and a flow reading, but can the aquaero 6 do that all on it's own? I want to put either an aquaero 6 pro or a PA2/ 3 ultra into a rad box as a standalone controller and I would go with the 6 pro if it could show the watts reading on the screen without any connection to a pc after it's setup.



Yes, aquaero can do that... setup & display result:


----------



## rolandos582

So I added my pumps and a single fan and a temp sensor to my new aquacomputer quadro. However, they're not popping up on my aquasuite software. Is there something I have forgotten?

Oh I guess you would use : https://shop.aquacomputer.de/produc...=3486&XTCsid=98u9qjho8d6nfi4gfhlkkmjbre77sv0t to connect it to the aquaero. Damn


----------



## war4peace

Leonko said:


> is there any "trick" to how to do it 100% right ? or how do i know that i connected it right ? i just didnt have an oportunity to connect anything to motherboard USB connectors yet, so i dont know. Because when i connect it one way or another (turn it in 180 angle), connector always fits in, right ?





rolandos582 said:


> So I added my pumps and a single fan and a temp sensor to my new aquacomputer quadro. However, they're not popping up on my aquasuite software. Is there something I have forgotten?
> 
> Oh I guess you would use : https://shop.aquacomputer.de/produc...=3486&XTCsid=98u9qjho8d6nfi4gfhlkkmjbre77sv0t to connect it to the aquaero. Damn


No, that is an incorrect cable type. You need the USB cable to connect it to your motherboard, the cable should have been in the box:



> Scope of delivery
> - QUADRO controller
> - one temperature sensor, length approx. 70 cm
> *- one internal USB cable, length approx. 100 cm
> *- mounting material


----------



## rolandos582

war4peace said:


> No, that is an incorrect cable type. You need the USB cable to connect it to your motherboard, the cable should have been in the box:


Yes I have that and installed but it's not showing on the aquaero. I read something about expanding?

''QUADRO can be used as an aquabus expansion device
Besides being a fully autonomous USB fan controller, the QUADRO can also be used as an aquabus extension to an aquaero 5 or aquaero 6. In this configuration, the four fan channels of the QUADRO can be controlled by the aquaero, temperature sensor inputs and flow sensor input are transmitted to the aquaero. A maximum of two QUADRO controllers can be connected to an aquaero simultaneously.''

So then I would assume you connect a cable to the aquabus port of the aquaero & quadro?


----------



## GTXJackBauer

rolandos582 said:


> Yes I have that and installed but it's not showing on the aquaero. I read something about expanding?
> 
> ''QUADRO can be used as an aquabus expansion device
> Besides being a fully autonomous USB fan controller, the QUADRO can also be used as an aquabus extension to an aquaero 5 or aquaero 6. In this configuration, the four fan channels of the QUADRO can be controlled by the aquaero, temperature sensor inputs and flow sensor input are transmitted to the aquaero. A maximum of two QUADRO controllers can be connected to an aquaero simultaneously.''
> 
> So then I would assume you connect a cable to the aquabus port of the aquaero & quadro?


For Aquaero control to the QUADRO, that's correct. You connect them both via Aquabus.


----------



## rolandos582

GTXJackBauer said:


> For Aquaero control to the QUADRO, that's correct. You connect them both via Aquabus.


Yeah that is what I was thinking, thanks! I'll grab the cable.

I noticed that I can't get my quadro in aquasuite 2017. Since I purchased my aquaero quite long ago. Does the quadro need the 2018 version? And since my aquaero only goes to 2017, does it no longer work untill i upgrade it?


----------



## war4peace

Uninstall Aquasuite, disconnect your Aquaero from USB, connect your QUADRO to USB, reinstall Aquasuite and it will detect teh QUADRO and grab a new license for it. Then you can reconnect Aquaero to USB and retain all your settings.
You can have both QUADRO and Aquaero connected to USB separately and they will work just fine.


----------



## rolandos582

war4peace said:


> Uninstall Aquasuite, disconnect your Aquaero from USB, connect your QUADRO to USB, reinstall Aquasuite and it will detect teh QUADRO and grab a new license for it. Then you can reconnect Aquaero to USB and retain all your settings.
> You can have both QUADRO and Aquaero connected to USB separately and they will work just fine.


Thats interesting, will try that! Thanks for the advice


----------



## rolandos582

Hmmm, I've got a question. I run my Aquacomputer 6 XT and my Aquacomputer quadro. My 6 XT works fine, but my recently quadro I can't seem to get to work.

No matter if I connect it solo to the USB port of my mobo or together with my 6 XT. Nothing happends. It might be dead ;(
You can connect a 6 XT + quadro to 1 USB port on the mobo right? Although its a 5 and 4 pin. And both require 5 pins?


----------



## Shawnb99

rolandos582 said:


> Hmmm, I've got a question. I run my Aquacomputer 6 XT and my Aquacomputer quadro. My 6 XT works fine, but my recently quadro I can't seem to get to work.
> 
> 
> 
> No matter if I connect it solo to the USB port of my mobo or together with my 6 XT. Nothing happends. It might be dead ;(
> 
> You can connect a 6 XT + quadro to 1 USB port on the mobo right? Although its a 5 and 4 pin. And both require 5 pins?




Both need to be connected via USB. I’ve had 2 Quadros stop working on me recently with no indication as to why.
Check the Quadro cables first as they can break easily otherwise yeah it might be dead.


----------



## rolandos582

Shawnb99 said:


> Both need to be connected via USB. I’ve had 2 Quadros stop working on me recently with no indication as to why.
> Check the Quadro cables first as they can break easily otherwise yeah it might be dead.


Right, but I got a MSI x99 godlike which offers 2 usb ports. It's your default one, 1 row 5 pin and 1 row 4 pin. You can connect 2 USB devices on them without any problems correct? So if one if the Aquaero 6 XT and one is the quadro that should work.

Yeah the cables are not the strongest, but I guess it's gonna be a RMA.


----------



## Barefooter

rolandos582 said:


> Right, but I got a MSI x99 godlike which offers 2 usb ports. It's your default one, 1 row 5 pin and 1 row 4 pin. *You can connect 2 USB devices on them without any problems correct?* So if one if the Aquaero 6 XT and one is the quadro that should work.
> 
> Yeah the cables are not the strongest, but I guess it's gonna be a RMA.


Yes you can put two five pin USB cables to each motherboard USB header. Just be sure to connect it in the correct orientation. The arrow on the connector body of the five pin goes to the #1 pin.


----------



## elderan

Working on a new build using a 2 loop setup. I used Aquaero in the past but skipped it my last build and used the asus motherboard watercooling software. I thought it was reasonable but not great. My new build also has an asus motherboard which has the watercooling options on it. 

I just saw the new D5 pump Aquaero offers and was wondering if its worth it to do a Aquaero set. If I did it I was planning on something like these parts. 

Aquaero XT
Aquaero LT
2x D5 NEXT pump

Each loop will have 2x 560 rads with 8x 140mm fans. Case fans I am not set on atm, I have a Thermaltake wp200 with 2x p200 so I have room for about 22 fans on the case (I dont intent to use that many)


So those who are using Aquaero lately is it worth the switch? What other parts would I need.


----------



## Moose-Tech

I love my Aquaero. It gives me amazing levels of monitoring and control of your system. It allows you to dial in on your cooling so you can run your system as quiet as you want, and then ramp it up as needed.
The D5 Next pumps were not out when I bought my parts so I will have to stick with my EKWB pump for now.

I would suggest the following Aquacomputer (AQ) parts

For each Loop:

At least 1x "AQ Flow sensor 'high flow' G1/4". This is a great sensor that is easy to use. My Aquaero 6 LT picked it up right away and it was up and running in a snap. Works great and I heard that it lasts a LOT longer then some other branded Flow Sensors.

You will also probably want at least 1x "AQ SPLITTY9 for up to 9 fans or aquabus devices" depending on how many amps your 8 fans will pull. 
Per the manual: "The Aquaero 6 maximum current is 2.5 A per fan output independent of output voltage, resulting in a maximum power of 30 W at 12 V."
If your fans pull a lot of amps get additional SPLITTY9's. You have 8x fan PWM controls available between the two Aquaero's .

You will need various temp sensors; wet and dry. With two Aquaero's you can monitor up to 16 temp sensors.

If you are concerned about filtering I have heard this is a real good filter to have. It has built in valves so you clean the filter without draining the loop: 
"AQ Filter with stainless steel mesh, ball valves and mounting plate G1/4"

Good Luck!


----------



## elderan

Moose-Tech said:


> I love my Aquaero. It gives me amazing levels of monitoring and control of your system. It allows you to dial in on your cooling so you can run your system as quiet as you want, and then ramp it up as needed.
> The D5 Next pumps were not out when I bought my parts so I will have to stick with my EKWB pump for now.
> 
> I would suggest the following Aquacomputer (AQ) parts
> 
> For each Loop:
> 
> At least 1x "AQ Flow sensor 'high flow' G1/4". This is a great sensor that is easy to use. My Aquaero 6 LT picked it up right away and it was up and running in a snap. Works great and I heard that it lasts a LOT longer then some other branded Flow Sensors.
> 
> You will also probably want at least 1x "AQ SPLITTY9 for up to 9 fans or aquabus devices" depending on how many amps your 8 fans will pull.
> Per the manual: "The Aquaero 6 maximum current is 2.5 A per fan output independent of output voltage, resulting in a maximum power of 30 W at 12 V."
> If your fans pull a lot of amps get additional SPLITTY9's. You have 8x fan PWM controls available between the two Aquaero's .
> 
> You will need various temp sensors; wet and dry. With two Aquaero's you can monitor up to 16 temp sensors.
> 
> If you are concerned about filtering I have heard this is a real good filter to have. It has built in valves so you clean the filter without draining the loop:
> "AQ Filter with stainless steel mesh, ball valves and mounting plate G1/4"
> 
> Good Luck!


My understanding is the D5 NEXT pump has a temp and flow senor. Do I need an additional flow sensor per loop? I was planning on putting Calitemp sensors on on rad entrance, and one on rad exit per loop. 

What I am planning atm

Aquaero 6 XT black/blue USB fan controller, graphic LCD, touch control, IR remote control
aquaero 6 LT USB fan controller
2x ULTITOP D5 pump cover for D5 pumps, G1/4
2x D5 NEXT pump
HUBBY7 internal USB 2.0 Hub
4x Temperature sensor 70 cm for aquaero, aquastream XT and aquaduct
2x Connection cable for flow sensor, length 70 cm for aquaero/aquastream/poweradjust/D5 NEXT
4x Calitemp digital temperature sensor internal/external thread G1/4 for aquaero 5/6
4x SPLITTY9 splitter for up to 9 fans or aquabus devices

This list look good? am I missing anything?

I have 2x EKWB D5 Pump Res RGB combo atm still in the box I just got the other day. The plan is to return those and just get the EKWB RGB Res and use the D5 NEXT pump with them. I like the way they look and I didnt see any Aquaero ones I liked. Is there any benifit to theirs except for the low sensor?


----------



## Shawnb99

elderan said:


> My understanding is the D5 NEXT pump has a temp and flow senor. Do I need an additional flow sensor per loop? I was planning on putting Calitemp sensors on on rad entrance, and one on rad exit per loop.
> 
> 
> 
> What I am planning atm
> 
> 
> 
> Aquaero 6 XT black/blue USB fan controller, graphic LCD, touch control, IR remote control
> 
> aquaero 6 LT USB fan controller
> 
> 2x ULTITOP D5 pump cover for D5 pumps, G1/4
> 
> 2x D5 NEXT pump
> 
> HUBBY7 internal USB 2.0 Hub
> 
> 4x Temperature sensor 70 cm for aquaero, aquastream XT and aquaduct
> 
> 2x Connection cable for flow sensor, length 70 cm for aquaero/aquastream/poweradjust/D5 NEXT
> 
> 4x Calitemp digital temperature sensor internal/external thread G1/4 for aquaero 5/6
> 
> 4x SPLITTY9 splitter for up to 9 fans or aquabus devices
> 
> 
> 
> This list look good? am I missing anything?
> 
> 
> 
> I have 2x EKWB D5 Pump Res RGB combo atm still in the box I just got the other day. The plan is to return those and just get the EKWB RGB Res and use the D5 NEXT pump with them. I like the way they look and I didnt see any Aquaero ones I liked. Is there any benifit to theirs except for the low sensor?




Temp sensor on the pump isn’t near the water so not that accurate, as to the flow meter in the pump you have to calibrate it by blocking the flow in your loop for 30 seconds I’d prefer not to do that and went high flow sensor instead. 

Also using more then one calitemp on the Aquaero and you’ll need the Aquabusx4 device. If mounting the Aquaero in a front bay its poorly designed and will run into conflicts with the front bay mounts, if not mounting it and it’s fine. 
You’ll likely need extras Aquabus cables as well.


----------



## elderan

Shawnb99 said:


> Temp sensor on the pump isn’t near the water so not that accurate, as to the flow meter in the pump you have to calibrate it by blocking the flow in your loop for 30 seconds I’d prefer not to do that and went high flow sensor instead.
> 
> Also using more then one calitemp on the Aquaero and you’ll need the Aquabusx4 device. If mounting the Aquaero in a front bay its poorly designed and will run into conflicts with the front bay mounts, if not mounting it and it’s fine.
> You’ll likely need extras Aquabus cables as well.



So need 

4x Temperature sensor internal/external thread G1/4 for aquaero, aquastream XT and aquaduct
2x Flow sensor high flow USB G1/4 (not sure on this, like the idea of having it on the pump)

The extra cables are the thing I am not sure of what the pump comes with and what I need.


----------



## Shawnb99

elderan said:


> So need
> 
> 
> 
> 4x Temperature sensor internal/external thread G1/4 for aquaero, aquastream XT and aquaduct
> 
> 2x Flow sensor high flow USB G1/4 (not sure on this, like the idea of having it on the pump)
> 
> 
> 
> The extra cables are the thing I am not sure of what the pump comes with and what I need.




The D5 Next doesn’t come with cables to connect to the Aquaero.
You’ll need the Aquabus cable for Vision/D5 for that. You’ll need one for each D5 next you’re connecting.
https://shop.aquacomputer.de/product_info.php?products_id=3487

Calitemp sensors don’t seem to be that much more accurate than the normal Aquacomputer inline sensors plus with the flimsy wiring they really are more trouble then they are worth. I have 4 of them myself with 10 of the inline ones and see less then a degree of difference for the most part.


----------



## Leonko

elderan said:


> Aquaero 6 XT black/blue USB fan controller, graphic LCD, touch control, IR remote control
> aquaero 6 LT USB fan controller
> 2x ULTITOP D5 pump cover for D5 pumps, G1/4
> 2x D5 NEXT pump
> HUBBY7 internal USB 2.0 Hub
> 4x Temperature sensor 70 cm for aquaero, aquastream XT and aquaduct
> 2x Connection cable for flow sensor, length 70 cm for aquaero/aquastream/poweradjust/D5 NEXT
> 4x Calitemp digital temperature sensor internal/external thread G1/4 for aquaero 5/6
> 4x SPLITTY9 splitter for up to 9 fans or aquabus devices


since QUADRO is out, i dont see ANY reason to buy Aquaero. Not mentionig two aquaeros ... lol

They cost 280 euros (XT + LT), With 2 Quadros you can control 8 PWM channels, connect 2 aquabus devices, 8 temp sensors (2 included in package), 2 RGBpx LED, 2 flow sensors, and everything that for only 80 euros.


----------



## elderan

Leonko said:


> since QUADRO is out, i dont see ANY reason to buy Aquaero. Not mentionig two aquaeros ... lol
> 
> They cost 280 euros (XT + LT), With 2 Quadros you can control 8 PWM channels, connect 2 aquabus devices, 8 temp sensors (2 included in package), 2 RGBpx LED, 2 flow sensors, and everything that for only 80 euros.


Oh didn't know. So the QUADRO is basically a non display version of the Aquaero. I like the idea of hiding it inside the case, seems simpler. 

2x QUADRO 
2x Heatkiller 150mm Res (The D5 should connect directly to this right?)
2x D5 NEXT pump
HUBBY7 internal USB 2.0 Hub (Not sure I need this)
4x Temperature sensor 70 cm for aquaero, aquastream XT and aquaduct
2x Connection cable for flow sensor, length 70 cm for aquaero/aquastream/poweradjust/D5 NEXT
2x Aquacomputer Aquabus Cable, 4-Pin
4x Inline temp sensors
4x SPLITTY9 splitter for up to 9 fans or aquabus devices (2 for top of case, 2 of bottom)

Anything I am missing anything?


----------



## 414347

elderan said:


> Oh didn't know. So the QUADRO is basically a non display version of the Aquaero. I like the idea of hiding it inside the case, seems simpler


There is a lot more to Aquaero then Quadro so don't misunderstand that.

@ Shawnb99 You have Quadros right? 

I know Quadro has its own tab but if you would to run Quadro independently does it have alarm actions and configurations and such. E.g. if you would run pump(s) or fan(s) and if any of them would to fail, would Quadro be able to automatically apply corresponding action that you have set, say... take over faulty hardware and work like nothing happen.


----------



## elderan

NewUser16 said:


> There is a lot more to Aquaero then Quadro so don't misunderstand that.
> 
> @ Shawnb99 I know Quadro has its own tab, but does it have alarm actions and corresponding configurations and such.


Ya been looking for a breakdown of the differences myself.


----------



## 414347

elderan said:


> Ya been looking for a breakdown of the differences myself.


Well.. there is a significant difference in tab menu itself between Aquaero and Quadro it all depends on what you want to archive out of your hardware.

If you have small case and front 2.5" bay is a limitation , but you could fit Aquaero LT somewhere inside and you have the budget for it, I would get LT no doubt, more possibilities, expendability options for future proof hardware.


----------



## elderan

NewUser16 said:


> Well.. there is a significant difference in tab menu itself between Aquaero and Quadro it all depends on what you want to archive out of your hardware.
> 
> If you have small case and front 2.5" bay is a limitation , but you could fit Aquaero LT somewhere inside and you have the budget for it, I would get LT no doubt, more possibilities, expendability options for future proof hardware.


Room isnt the issue, I have a huge case. I am doing 2 separate loops, 2 pumps etc. So from what I gather there is no advatage of the Quadro over the Aquaero LT except price correct?

Can you put 2 Aquaero 6 XT in a system and have each display data from each loop?


----------



## 414347

elderan said:


> Room isnt the issue, I have a huge case. I am doing 2 separate loops, 2 pumps etc. So from what I gather there is no advatage of the Quadro over the Aquaero LT except price correct?
> 
> Can you put 2 Aquaero 6 XT in a system and have each display data from each loop?


You could but Its not going to work well with Aquasuite unless you take the front of one of the XT's (I presume you have 2 of them already) and make the second aquaero slave unit.

If you have only one Aquaero XT get either PA3 (my personal preference but you need more units if more channels needed) or get Quadro, that way it will add additional channels and you can run several pumps and fans no problem and you can set all automated useful features and protection, there are endless possibilities.


----------



## elderan

NewUser16 said:


> You could but Its not going to work well with Aquasuite unless you take the front of one of the XT's (I presume you have 2 of them already) and make the second aquaero slave unit.
> 
> If you have only one Aquaero XT get either PA3 (my personal preference but you need more units if more channels needed) or get Quadro, that way it will add additional channels and you can run several pumps and fans no problem and you can set all automated features of protection, there is endless possibilities.


So getting a Aquaero 6 XT and 2x Quadro would work well? The Quadros would be near the pumps so cables can reach easier. 

Plug the HUBBY7 to the motherboard USB
Plug the Aquaero 6 XT and 2x Quadro up to the HUBBY7 
Plug the 2 pumps into one Quadro each (auqabus and flow sensor)
Plug the 4 in line temp sensors into whatever is closer Aquaero 6 XT or a Quadro 
Plug the 4 temp sensors into whatever is closer Aquaero 6 XT or a Quadro 
Plug the SPLITTY9 into whatever is closer Aquaero 6 XT or a Quadro 

If this is correct cables I need for this, which don't come with the parts listed above. 

2x Auqabus cables (One for each pump to a Quadro)
2x Flow meter cables (One for each pump to a Quadro)

Did I miss anything?

I am getting really close to ordering this, just want to make sure I got it all nailed down.


----------



## Alex132

Hey Guys - owned a Quadro for awhile and absolutely love it. Probably best bit of hardware I've bought this decade.


I was wondering where I could find some custom made pages to import? I'd love to be able to import some premade pages to mess around with.


----------



## 414347

elderan said:


> So getting a Aquaero 6 XT and 2x Quadro would work well? The Quadros would be near the pumps so cables can reach easier.
> 
> Plug the HUBBY7 to the motherboard USB
> Plug the Aquaero 6 XT and 2x Quadro up to the HUBBY7
> Plug the 2 pumps into one Quadro each (auqabus and flow sensor)
> Plug the 4 in line temp sensors into whatever is closer Aquaero 6 XT or a Quadro
> Plug the 4 temp sensors into whatever is closer Aquaero 6 XT or a Quadro
> Plug the SPLITTY9 into whatever is closer Aquaero 6 XT or a Quadro
> 
> If this is correct cables I need for this, which don't come with the parts listed above.
> 
> 2x Auqabus cables (One for each pump to a Quadro)
> 2x Flow meter cables (One for each pump to a Quadro)
> 
> Did I miss anything?
> 
> I am getting really close to ordering this, just want to make sure I got it all nailed down.


I think you have everything picked correctly. 

Once its all hocked up and working as it should you will like it. Aquacomputer makes the finest monitoring hardware and with Aquasuite combination you will have excellent experience.


----------



## Leonko

NewUser16 said:


> I would get LT no doubt, more possibilities, expendability options for future proof hardware.


ehm, can you be more specific please? its like saying your water is better then neighbours, but without explanation  what possibilities?


----------



## rolandos582

Do you guys use aquasuite x3 or the 2018 variant?


----------



## 414347

Leonko said:


> ehm, can you be more specific please? its like saying your water is better then neighbours, but without explanation  what possibilities?


Although, yes, Quadro has 4 PWM channels, temp sensor, flow sensor and rgbpx, everything else is limited opposed to Aquaero LT.

Beside the fact that the Aquaero LT its nothing short from XT or PRO model but without the phase-plate, the menu tab that's where all users informative and actual functional goods resides which Quadro doesn't have.


----------



## Leonko

Could you post some screens? Still dont really understand what you mean. What functional goods? I myself would like to know exact difference, because im planning on buying 2 quadros.


----------



## H2OMachine

Okay computer is finally up and running after my 6 month build,I've got some questions. I'm running an aquaero 6 pro with two splitty 9s managing 14 mag Lev fans half to fan channel 1 the other half to channel 2. The aquasuite allows me to adjust them but the rpm on display is either 0 or sporadically jumping around.

Second I'm running two D5 next pumps with the required splitter cable running to the high flow bus on the aquaero, I was told to plug the pump separately into the USB to adjust the name so the aquearo would register both pumps. When adjusted and unplugging from the USB the aquaero bus/suite now sees two pumps but I only get to adjust flow and I lose the D5 next tabs in the suite. Shouldn't I have full control of the pumps in the suit? I had more function when plugged directly into the mother board USB. 

Oh and my only temperature gauge on spot 1 doesn't show anywhere in the suite.

Sorry for the long post, I love the whole concept and functions of the aquaero and software but nothing seems to be functioning smoothly. Can anyone lend me some insight.


----------



## InfoSeeker

elderan said:


> Room isnt the issue, I have a huge case. I am doing 2 separate loops, 2 pumps etc. So from what I gather there is no advatage of the Quadro over the Aquaero LT except price correct?
> 
> Can you put 2 Aquaero 6 XT in a system and have each display data from each loop?



One aquaero should be able to handle two loops, the QUADRO(s) allow you to expand fan control capabilities, including additional curves.

Only the QUADRO can do RGBpx (individual RGB strip control)

Only the aquaero has virtual sensors to manipulate multiple sensors into a single value.


----------



## 414347

InfoSeeker said:


> One aquaero should be able to handle two loops, the QUADRO(s) allow you to expand fan control capabilities, including additional curves.
> 
> Only the QUADRO can do RGBpx (individual RGB strip control)
> 
> Only the aquaero has virtual sensors to manipulate multiple sensors into a single value.


It all depends on how many radiators and fans he will have and if he wants each rad to be control independently, otherwise he might need addition channels.

From the sound of it, his system will have more hardware than an average dual loops so he might fall-short, then again, depending on how he want to configure his loops and fans to operate


----------



## Alex132

This is what I have so far, do you know if I can make this appear on a specific monitor when I choose "background" view?


Also any tips of things to add?


----------



## InfoSeeker

Alex132 said:


> Spoiler
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is what I have so far, do you know if I can make this appear on a specific monitor when I choose "background" view?
> 
> 
> Also any tips of things to add?



"Desktop View"? If your monitors are extended, yes. The aquasuite "Overview" page covers the full desktop and you can either place, drag & drop or specify X/Y cordinates over the full range.

Below is a clip of my monitor page from my previous build, it was placed on my 2nd monitor. I just finished my new build and have not set up a page yet. All of it is aquasuite except the internet graph which is Networx and the clock which is Digital Clock 4.


----------



## Shawnb99

elderan said:


> So getting a Aquaero 6 XT and 2x Quadro would work well? The Quadros would be near the pumps so cables can reach easier.
> 
> 
> 
> Plug the HUBBY7 to the motherboard USB
> 
> Plug the Aquaero 6 XT and 2x Quadro up to the HUBBY7
> 
> Plug the 2 pumps into one Quadro each (auqabus and flow sensor)
> 
> Plug the 4 in line temp sensors into whatever is closer Aquaero 6 XT or a Quadro
> 
> Plug the 4 temp sensors into whatever is closer Aquaero 6 XT or a Quadro
> 
> Plug the SPLITTY9 into whatever is closer Aquaero 6 XT or a Quadro
> 
> 
> 
> If this is correct cables I need for this, which don't come with the parts listed above.
> 
> 
> 
> 2x Auqabus cables (One for each pump to a Quadro)
> 
> 2x Flow meter cables (One for each pump to a Quadro)
> 
> 
> 
> Did I miss anything?
> 
> 
> 
> I am getting really close to ordering this, just want to make sure I got it all nailed down.



You’re missing the step of plugging the Pumps and Quadros into the Aquaero 

You’ll need 4 Aquabus cables for Vision/Quadro. One for each pump connected to the Aquaero and one for each Quadro. 
Makes sure you get the flow meter cables for the Quadro and not for the Aquaero.

Otherwise looks good.


----------



## Leonko

why the hell would you even need XT AND 2x quadros now?


----------



## broodro0ster

The most important feature that missing from the Quardro, is the virtual temp sensor. I cool by delta T because that gives me consistent noise results and always the best cooling for the noise level.
To calculate Delta T you need to setup a virtual temp sensor and this is not possible with the Quadro.

So my advice is to get the 6LT if you need the best device without LCD screen.


----------



## Shawnb99

Leonko said:


> why the hell would you even need XT AND 2x quadros now?




For the fan channels. I need all 12.


----------



## rolandos582

Could you put a aquaero 6 LT or XT in a hdd cage? I need to use one of my caselabs cages for a hdd but its on the place of my aquaero.

Wondering how you would stick one in a cage


----------



## InfoSeeker

Shawnb99 said:


> You’re missing the step of plugging the Pumps and Quadros into the Aquaero
> 
> You’ll need 4 Aquabus cables for Vision/Quadro. One for each pump connected to the Aquaero and one for each Quadro.
> Makes sure you get the flow meter cables for the Quadro and not for the Aquaero.
> 
> Otherwise looks good.



You do not want to connect the Quadros to the aquaero with the aquabus. You will loose the fan curve controllers on the Quadros. With aquabus you will have only the 4 curve controllers from the aquaero instead of 12 (4 aquaero & 4 each from the 2 Quadros).

Plus you loose the RGBpx control.

Thread


----------



## Shawnb99

InfoSeeker said:


> You do not want to connect the Quadros to the aquaero with the aquabus. You will loose the fan curve controllers on the Quadros. With aquabus you will have only the 4 curve controllers from the aquaero instead of 12 (4 aquaero & 4 each from the 2 Quadros).
> 
> 
> 
> Plus you loose the RGBpx control.
> 
> 
> 
> Thread




So that’s why I couldn’t get my lighting to work.

Thanks for this. I didn’t know you’d lose the curve controllers as well.


----------



## 414347

InfoSeeker said:


> You do not want to connect the Quadros to the aquaero with the aquabus. You will loose the fan curve controllers on the Quadros. With aquabus you will have only the 4 curve controllers from the aquaero instead of 12 (4 aquaero & 4 each from the 2 Quadros).
> 
> Plus you loose the RGBpx control.
> 
> Thread


Not that I was considering Quadro, I'm happy with PA3's Ultra and I have so many of them, but nice to know for future reference. 

I run everything of aquabus and tbh. I found "Set Point Control" if you set it correctly (slower -2) It works almost as if it was on PWM


----------



## war4peace

Moose-Tech said:


> If you are concerned about filtering I have heard this is a real good filter to have. It has built in valves so you clean the filter without draining the loop:
> "AQ Filter with stainless steel mesh, ball valves and mounting plate G1/4"


I have one of those. It's great. I don't keep it connected to my loops, I use it separately when I buy a new radiator and use the filter to make sure it's fully cleaned. 



InfoSeeker said:


> "Desktop View"? If your monitors are extended, yes. The aquasuite "Overview" page covers the full desktop and you can either place, drag & drop or specify X/Y cordinates over the full range.
> 
> Below is a clip of my monitor page from my previous build, it was placed on my 2nd monitor. I just finished my new build and have not set up a page yet. All of it is aquasuite except the internet graph which is Networx and the clock which is Digital Clock 4.


Could you please share the XML behind it, and some more details of how you made everything look the way it does? Thank you in advance!



Alex132 said:


> Also any tips of things to add?


This is my Desktop Widget...


----------



## Barefooter

Moose-Tech said:


> I love my Aquaero. It gives me amazing levels of monitoring and control of your system. It allows you to dial in on your cooling so you can run your system as quiet as you want, and then ramp it up as needed.
> The D5 Next pumps were not out when I bought my parts so I will have to stick with my EKWB pump for now.
> 
> I would suggest the following Aquacomputer (AQ) parts
> 
> For each Loop:
> 
> At least 1x "AQ Flow sensor 'high flow' G1/4". This is a great sensor that is easy to use. My Aquaero 6 LT picked it up right away and it was up and running in a snap. Works great and I heard that it lasts a LOT longer then some other branded Flow Sensors.
> 
> You will also probably want at least 1x "AQ SPLITTY9 for up to 9 fans or aquabus devices" depending on how many amps your 8 fans will pull.
> Per the manual: "The Aquaero 6 maximum current is 2.5 A per fan output independent of output voltage, resulting in a maximum power of 30 W at 12 V."
> If your fans pull a lot of amps get additional SPLITTY9's. You have 8x fan PWM controls available between the two Aquaero's .
> 
> You will need various temp sensors; wet and dry. With two Aquaero's you can monitor up to 16 temp sensors.
> 
> *If you are concerned about filtering I have heard this is a real good filter to have. It has built in valves so you clean the filter without draining the loop:
> "AQ Filter with stainless steel mesh, ball valves and mounting plate G1/4"*
> 
> Good Luck!



Keep in mind that those filters are very restrictive and will drop your flow rate. Here is a great "Filter Restriction Test" performed by fast_fate

https://www.overclock.net/forum/25894531-post635.html


----------



## GTXJackBauer

Barefooter said:


> Keep in mind that those filters are very restrictive and will drop your flow rate. Here is a great "Filter Restriction Test" performed by fast_fate
> 
> https://www.overclock.net/forum/25894531-post635.html


:thumb:

I used to have a filter in my loop but knowing how it's already restrictive, I decided to part ways with it in the loop but still have it around collecting dust. 

It was a koolance version to be exact.


----------



## Leonko

Shawnb99 said:


> For the fan channels. I need all 12.


can you tell what channel is used for which component (and how many fans on channel) ?


----------



## InfoSeeker

war4peace said:


> Could you please share the XML behind it, and some more details of how you made everything look the way it does? Thank you in advance!



Attached is the .page file generated by the aquasuite.
There are a lot of overlays and layering is important.


----------



## Shawnb99

Leonko said:


> can you tell what channel is used for which component (and how many fans on channel) ?




I made sure to write down what was plugged into what. No there’s no way to tell how many on the channel or least none that I’ve figured out yet.

I haven’t had much chance to play around with Aquasuite as this build is from hell and keeps going down on me. Am replacing my second GPU atm 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## war4peace

Thank you, I played with it for a bit, will keep it as backup and add more data points to it.


----------



## H2OMachine

New to the aquearo, just finished my duel loop setup, running two D5 next pumps. I'm trying to figure out how to set up a fan curve based off my water temps, I'm on the aquasuite x and have no clue how to set the curve. Any help would be beautiful.


----------



## rolandos582

H2OMachine said:


> New to the aquearo, just finished my duel loop setup, running two D5 next pumps. I'm trying to figure out how to set up a fan curve based off my water temps, I'm on the aquasuite x and have no clue how to set the curves. Any help would be beautiful.


*** is up with your text. Makes no sense lol. Looks good. Look at this : https://www.overclock.net/forum/61-water-cooling/1726492-aquaero-aquasuite-software-setup-guide.html

Are you running Mayhems X1 black/red?


----------



## H2OMachine

rolandos582 said:


> *** is up with your text. Makes no sense lol. Looks good. Look at this : https://www.overclock.net/forum/61-water-cooling/1726492-aquaero-aquasuite-software-setup-guide.html
> 
> Are you running Mayhems X1 black/red?


Fixed it, didn't know that was a thing if you post using a phone. lesson learned. I was running mayhems x1 clear with purple dye. as well as the red x1 but had to change out to distilled with their dye because it was getting to foamy with my resevoirs.


----------



## elderan

Shawnb99 said:


> You’re missing the step of plugging the Pumps and Quadros into the Aquaero
> 
> You’ll need 4 Aquabus cables for Vision/Quadro. One for each pump connected to the Aquaero and one for each Quadro.
> Makes sure you get the flow meter cables for the Quadro and not for the Aquaero.
> 
> Otherwise looks good.


Cant seem to find the flow meter cable for the Quadro, any ideas?

My project got a little side tracked but getting back into it now.


----------



## Moose-Tech

elderan said:


> Cant seem to find the flow meter cable for the Quadro, any ideas?
> 
> My project got a little side tracked but getting back into it now.


Performance PCs has them. Great place for water cooling components and PC mod stuff.
http://www.performance-pcs.com/aqua...e-flow-sensor-for-vision-and-quadro-70cm.html


----------



## elderan

Moose-Tech said:


> Performance PCs has them. Great place for water cooling components and PC mod stuff.
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/aqua...e-flow-sensor-for-vision-and-quadro-70cm.html


Thanks, I put in a order with them for that and a few other things. I must have missed it because I check them a lot.


----------



## d0mmie

Hi there.

Does anyone know if the Quadro PWM Controller supports the older versions of D5 pumps that uses some kind of fake PWM that doesn't follow Intel's specs? One of those pumps is the Alphacool VPP755 which is a D5 type clone.


----------



## war4peace

My latest Aquacomputer order arrived yesterday. It contains a Farbwerk 360, extra LED Strips, a 60mm reservoir LED ring and some cables I was missing, together with a traditional RGB LED for the Aquaero itself.

Today I installed the Farbwerk 360 into my „Box of Horrors” build and installed LED strips. I already had the case RGBpx kit, so I used them all to check out how it behaves.

The good: The LED strips which come with the case kit and the Farbwerk itself are awesome. I used them all to light my Thermaltake Core X5. After playing with the effects for a bit I decided to use a sensor-controlled lighting effect, using my liquid temperature as source. At 30 degrees Celsius and below, the LEDs are all white, gradually changing to red as liquid temperature rises (e.g. during gaming and transcoding). It works perfectly. 90 LEDs hooked on one strip in Aquasuite and the reservoir ring hooked to the other strip. Simply beautiful. I especially like the pure white they yield.

The bad: The extra LED strips come without connecting cables, so for now I am left looking at them and unable to use them. I wrongfully assumed they come accompanied with at least one of those short connecting cables each. Going back to the webshop I noticed they donțt come with cables. Oh well, next order then.

The ugly: From the pictures on the webshop I thought the 27.3cm LED strips have the same quality as the 32cm ones. I was wrong. They are pretty ugly but I will still find some use for them.

All in all, apart from the confusion around cabling, the Farbwerk 360 is a very solid product and I enjoy it thoroughly. I still have two empty outputs and I already have some ideas on how to use them


----------



## Leonko

d0mmie said:


> Hi there.
> 
> Does anyone know if the Quadro PWM Controller supports the older versions of D5 pumps that uses some kind of fake PWM that doesn't follow Intel's specs? One of those pumps is the Alphacool VPP755 which is a D5 type clone.


im one million percent sure it has latest PWM support. because i asked it 6 months ago and response was :



> Hi,
> 
> our VPP755 V3 is also compatible with every Intel PWM inputs. Since Intel has standardized this, our pump should be compatible with all fan controllers that use this PWM signal.


I dont know how you came up with some fake PWM control ...


----------



## Barefooter

war4peace said:


> My latest Aquacomputer order arrived yesterday. It contains a Farbwerk 360, extra LED Strips, a *60mm reservoir LED ring *and some cables I was missing, together with a traditional RGB LED for the Aquaero itself.
> 
> Today I installed the Farbwerk 360 into my „Box of Horrors” build and installed LED strips. I already had the case RGBpx kit, so I used them all to check out how it behaves.
> 
> The good: The LED strips which come with the case kit and the Farbwerk itself are awesome. I used them all to light my Thermaltake Core X5. After playing with the effects for a bit I decided to use a sensor-controlled lighting effect, using my liquid temperature as source. At 30 degrees Celsius and below, the LEDs are all white, gradually changing to red as liquid temperature rises (e.g. during gaming and transcoding). It works perfectly. 90 LEDs hooked on one strip in Aquasuite and the reservoir ring hooked to the other strip. Simply beautiful. I especially like the pure white they yield.
> 
> The bad: The extra LED strips come without connecting cables, so for now I am left looking at them and unable to use them. I wrongfully assumed they come accompanied with at least one of those short connecting cables each. Going back to the webshop I noticed they donțt come with cables. Oh well, next order then.
> 
> The ugly: From the pictures on the webshop I thought the 27.3cm LED strips have the same quality as the 32cm ones. I was wrong. They are pretty ugly but I will still find some use for them.
> 
> All in all, apart from the confusion around cabling, the Farbwerk 360 is a very solid product and I enjoy it thoroughly. I still have two empty outputs and I already have some ideas on how to use them


 That reservoir LED ring looks nice, wish they had those out when I was putting my build together. It looks like is slides over the glass tube with no way to install it with the reservoir caps already installed?

I would consider adding one to my reservoirs, but not if I had to drain the system and disassemble things!

I used the six LEDs in the bottom, but it appears the light ring would be much brighter :thinking:

.


----------



## Shawnb99

Barefooter said:


> That reservoir LED ring looks nice, wish they had those out when I was putting my build together. It looks like is slides over the glass tube with no way to install it with the reservoir caps already installed?
> 
> I would consider adding one to my reservoirs, but not if I had to drain the system and disassemble things!
> 
> I used the six LEDs in the bottom, but it appears the light ring would be much brighter :thinking:
> 
> .




It makes for a very tight fit with the cap installed but it can be done. Can easily damage the LED’s so I wouldn’t advise installing it that way but it can be done. 

GPU died soon after so didn’t get a chance to try them out.


----------



## war4peace

Barefooter said:


> That reservoir LED ring looks nice, wish they had those out when I was putting my build together. It looks like is slides over the glass tube with no way to install it with the reservoir caps already installed?
> 
> I would consider adding one to my reservoirs, but not if I had to drain the system and disassemble things!
> 
> I used the six LEDs in the bottom, but it appears the light ring would be much brighter :thinking:
> 
> .


Luckily my reservoir's intake and output fittings are at its bottom and the reservoir itself is mounted using EKWB's kit on the side. I was able to remove the cap without spilling liquid and slide the ring over the reservoir body, then I reattached the cap, took the reservoir out of the mounting kit (soft tubing between reservoir and flow sensor allowed me to do that) and slid the ring all the way to the bottom of the reservoir cylinder. 
After seeing it in action, I will definitely buy one more ring and attach it to the top of the transparent reservoir cylinder, and sync the two of them, with LEDs in top ring going in reverse direction from the bottom ring.


----------



## Barefooter

war4peace said:


> Luckily my reservoir's intake and output fittings are at its bottom and the reservoir itself is mounted using EKWB's kit on the side. I was able to remove the cap without spilling liquid and slide the ring over the reservoir body, then I reattached the cap, took the reservoir out of the mounting kit (soft tubing between reservoir and flow sensor allowed me to do that) and slid the ring all the way to the bottom of the reservoir cylinder.
> After seeing it in action, I will definitely buy one more ring and attach it to the top of the transparent reservoir cylinder, and sync the two of them, with LEDs in top ring going in reverse direction from the bottom ring.


Yes two would be even better. Would like to see a picture or short video when you have the second one on there :thumb:

Is it made with hard plastic or soft? Maybe if it's made with a soft material you could cut a slit in the back side and slip it around the reservoir. Of course that would not work if it's hard plastic.


----------



## war4peace

Barefooter said:


> Would like to see a picture or short video when you have the second one on there :thumb:


Excuse the dust and general unkemptness of my PC, it's been in a "temporary" status for quite some time now, with an ongoing project to move it out of that case and lack of time to do proper wire management while it sits in this stage. Whenever I decide to start working on it, something comes up in life. Nevertheless, see the video below:


----------



## Barefooter

Looks great! I'm sure it will be even brighter with a more transparent fluid, and I agree a second LED ring on top would be even better.



Thanks for the video and Rep to you.


----------



## GTXJackBauer

Here's mine with a AlphaCool 60mm LED Reservoir Ring I installed earlier this year. I was able to connect it to my Farbwerk (Non-360).

I thought about installing a second one but my Reservoir isn't tall enough and I was going to get the taller res but since it's being held by a small fitting to the dual EK D5 pumps, I didn't want to risk too much weight on it of either snapping or leaking.


----------



## war4peace

Barefooter said:


> Looks great! I'm sure it will be even brighter with a more transparent fluid, and I agree a second LED ring on top would be even better.


It's bright enough as it is, the gradient effect on the Mayhems Pastel White liquid is very nice too. 
A good friend of mine is upgrading his machine's watercooling loop (getting a MoRa 420 as well, together with a bunch of Aquacomputer gear for illumination and control), his build will definitely be better looking than mine is right now 

Once he finishes, I'll ask him to post a few pictures.


----------



## d0mmie

Leonko said:


> im one million percent sure it has latest PWM support. because i asked it 6 months ago and response was :
> 
> 
> 
> I dont know how you came up with some fake PWM control ...


It was from a review I found where they stated the PWM control didn't hold up to the spec, due to motherboard compatibility. But considering they are now at Rev.3 they might have changed it, but thank you for that information!


----------



## Leonko

d0mmie said:


> It was from a review I found where they stated the PWM control didn't hold up to the spec, due to motherboard compatibility. But considering they are now at Rev.3 they might have changed it, but thank you for that information!


can you post review, please? i would like to read it.


----------



## IT Diva

Leonko said:


> can you post review, please? i would like to read it.




In really simple terms, the Intel spec required the controlled device, (not the controller) to have the pull-up on the PWM line.


The early PWM D5's did not have it, so the Aq6 didn't control them, since it expected the pull-up to be in the controlled device.


The Diva mod was a quick and simple work around at that time.


Since then, most newer PWM D5 offerings seem to have the pull-up internally.


To the best of my knowledge, the Aq stuck to the Intel spec and never added an internal pull-up, which would have allowed it to work with the original PWM D5


----------



## Alex132

This is where I am at so far, wondering if it's possible to change that grey background or if I should give up and just plonk it on my desktop.


----------



## war4peace

I have set my background to transparent for all graphs and texts, with the exception of very few entries which are overlaying a graph.


----------



## Alex132

war4peace said:


> I have set my background to transparent for all graphs and texts, with the exception of very few entries which are overlaying a graph.



Oh I was wondering if I could plonk an image behind it, or make it black or something rather than that grey + aquasuite logo


----------



## d0mmie

Leonko said:


> can you post review, please? i would like to read it.


Here you go. Review is from 2016 so this is clearly a Rev.1, look at page 2 to find specifics about the PWM control

https://www.xtremerigs.net/2016/10/31/alphacool-eispumpe-vpp755-pump-review/


----------



## war4peace

Alex132 said:


> Oh I was wondering if I could plonk an image behind it, or make it black or something rather than that grey + aquasuite logo


You can only put a color, not an image. Any color you want, with any degree of transparency you desire.


----------



## InfoSeeker

war4peace said:


> You can only put a color, not an image. Any color you want, with any degree of transparency you desire.



Actually, with a bit of effort, one can place an image behind the various aquasuite objects.
Use the XAML option to place an image on the desktop, then place any objects you want over it with the background opacity for the object set to zero.


----------



## Alex132

Aw yiss


----------



## war4peace

InfoSeeker said:


> Actually, with a bit of effort, one can place an image behind the various aquasuite objects.
> Use the XAML option to place an image on the desktop, then place any objects you want over it with the background opacity for the object set to zero.


Could you please be so kind to throw an XML example my way?


----------



## InfoSeeker

war4peace said:


> Could you please be so kind to throw an XML example my way?



Sure. I had discarded that example, so I cobbled this together:


----------



## war4peace

Thank you very much, I appreciate this! Now I know how to further customize gauges.


----------



## InfoSeeker

Happy to share. But I realize it was a poor example because the two sensors I used were both unique to my machine, and will not show on most systems. So here is an example with a sensor reading that every aquaero owner will have.

There are three object: the picture, the gauge, and the text box. Right click on them to modify settings.


----------



## war4peace

Actually I was able to replace the sensors in your example with mine, by editing the .page file in Notepad++.
I like the two needle layout, it is exactly what I was looking for, very nice and clean.


----------



## MADworld

I just read 6+ months of post and googled but I still got some stuff I need help with.

I'm not sure of the best way to control the speed of the fans

Should I use
Temperature difference of highest and coldest water temp
Temperature difference of highest water temp and ambient
Water temp only

Something else?


From reading this seems to also be system specific to some degree so basically: 

CPU + SLI

Rads: 560 + 420 + 420 + 280

12x fans


----------



## Shawnb99

MADworld said:


> I just read 6+ months of post and googled but I still got some stuff I need help with.
> 
> 
> 
> I'm not sure of the best way to control the speed of the fans
> 
> 
> 
> Should I use
> 
> Temperature difference of highest and coldest water temp
> 
> Temperature difference of highest water temp and ambient
> 
> Water temp only
> 
> 
> 
> Something else?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> From reading this seems to also be system specific to some degree so basically:
> 
> 
> 
> CPU + SLI
> 
> 
> 
> Rads: 560 + 420 + 420 + 280
> 
> 
> 
> 12x fans




Nice amount of radiators. I’m impressed!
I just go by water temp for mine, once that starts going up i figure it’s time for more cooling.
Temperature difference in any part of my loop is less then a degree so I don’t pay much attention to that.


----------



## Ashcroft

MADworld said:


> I just read 6+ months of post and googled but I still got some stuff I need help with.
> 
> I'm not sure of the best way to control the speed of the fans
> 
> Should I use
> Temperature difference of highest and coldest water temp
> Temperature difference of highest water temp and ambient
> Water temp only
> 
> Something else?
> 
> 
> From reading this seems to also be system specific to some degree so basically:
> 
> CPU + SLI
> 
> Rads: 560 + 420 + 420 + 280
> 
> 12x fans


Honestly, with that degree of cooling it won't make much of a difference either way. In fact for very large systems like yours I have always been of the opinion that the benefit of that size is not needing to control fan speed at all and just running them at at low speed. Smaller systems benefit much more from variable fan speeds based on temps.

However, for temp based control I have always felt the reason to have an Aquaero was to use ambient coolant Delta control or the difference between ambient and the highest coolant temp. This way the ambient temp of the room changing does not change fan speed so in theory you always have the best balance of noise and cooling. Far simpler and less costly control systems can do simple single temp based control and the very reason to have a system that can create and use virtual sensors like the Aq can is to use Delta based controls.

Simpler single temp based control can see the fans ramp up steadily as the system and the room warms with use. Maybe that's desirable and maybe not, it's personal preference really. It can mean that fans ramp up and down more quickly, which makes the noise more noticeable though.

Using coolant Delta, or the difference between the warmest and coolest fluid temp along the length of the system is talked about by some but to me it seems backward. The coolant Delta can be affected much more by flow rate than the load on the system. The coolant Delta is also always a very low number which can make control difficult with sensors that aren't built for that level of resolution.

Experimenting will let you see what you prefer, but again, with that level of cooling we are talking extremely minor differences.


----------



## war4peace

MADworld said:


> Water temp only





Shawnb99 said:


> Nice amount of radiators. I’m impressed!
> I just go by water temp for mine


This. Configure a set point controller with liquid temperature at 40 degrees Celsius and forget about it. I have SLI+CPu as well with a MoRa 420 and no AC in the room and during the hottest days with room ambient at 30 degrees Celsius the fans never go above 550 RPM with around 1000W heat dissipation while the machine is fully utilized.


----------



## MADworld

Thanks for giving me some clarity on that. My new system will be quite different from my current one so got to learn some new tricks.


About the AQ D5 Next pump. If I don't care about the display and get a separate flow and temperature sensor is there still something I lose compared to a AQ D5 PWM?


----------



## GTXJackBauer

With that much in a loop, I'd recommend a dual pump in serial. Like the EK D5 G2s in serial or MCP35X2 DDC pumps in serial. I'm not sure if there's a solution for the AQ D5 NEXT or possible.


----------



## MADworld

GTXJackBauer said:


> With that much in a loop, I'd recommend a dual pump in serial. Like the EK D5 G2s in serial or MCP35X2 DDC pumps in serial. I'm not sure if there's a solution for the AQ D5 NEXT or possible.


Yes I was planning on using the NEXT but changed plans from dual loop to single loop. I agree as you say that one pump would strugle too much so I was going to use the "EK-XTOP Revo Dual D5 Serial". However the NEXT is not compatible with that top.

I'm still curious as to what, if anything, I loose by changing to a "normal" pwm pump compared to the NEXT.


----------



## Shawnb99

MADworld said:


> Yes I was planning on using the NEXT but changed plans from dual loop to single loop. I agree as you say that one pump would strugle too much so I was going to use the "EK-XTOP Revo Dual D5 Serial". However the NEXT is not compatible with that top.
> 
> 
> 
> I'm still curious as to what, if anything, I loose by changing to a "normal" pwm pump compared to the NEXT.



You’d lose all the the extra features.
IE: the fan and rgbx controls


----------



## MADworld

Shawnb99 said:


> You’d lose all the the extra features.
> IE: the fan and rgbx controls


Thanks, I was worrying that I overlooked something.


I was thinking about the following Aquaero setup

Aquaero 6 XT
2x Splitty9, fan distributor 9-way 

Aqua Computer Calitemp temperature sensor
Aqua Computer flow sensor high flow
2x Aqua Computer D5 PWM
12 x be quiet! Silent Wings 3 (PWM fans)

Aqua Computer aquaero 6 passive cooler
1x Connection cable for flow sensor, length 70 cm for aquaero


The Aquaero has 4 PWM ports so if I connect the PWM pumps directly to the Aquaero and use 2x Splitty9 to connect all the fans. It should work right?

Am I missing parts/cables etc?


----------



## Shawnb99

MADworld said:


> Thanks, I was worrying that I overlooked something.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I was thinking about the following Aquaero setup
> 
> 
> 
> Aquaero 6 XT
> 
> 2x Splitty9, fan distributor 9-way
> 
> 
> 
> Aqua Computer Calitemp temperature sensor
> 
> Aqua Computer flow sensor high flow
> 
> 2x Aqua Computer D5 PWM
> 
> 12 x be quiet! Silent Wings 3 (PWM fans)
> 
> 
> 
> Aqua Computer aquaero 6 passive cooler
> 
> 1x Connection cable for flow sensor, length 70 cm for aquaero
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The Aquaero has 4 PWM ports so if I connect the PWM pumps directly to the Aquaero and use 2x Splitty9 to connect all the fans. It should work right?
> 
> 
> 
> Am I missing parts/cables etc?




Yep that looks good. Add the heat sink for the Aquero it’s worth it even if you don’t need the extra power.

An option if you don’t need the Aquero in the front bay is get a Quadro instead, you lose voltage control and can handles less watts but is cheaper, then add a normal inline temp sensor instead of the Calitemp, I haven’t found them to be that more accurate then a normal one, at least not enough for the extra cost. Can even connect the flow sensor with an added cable. 

I suggest also adding at least one normal temp sensor for ambient temps


----------



## GTXJackBauer

I'm not sure but I think they've talked about the SILENT WINGS 3 (PWM) here as possibly not being fully PWM compatible. I'd just check that out. I think it was those fans unless it was another brand.


----------



## MADworld

Shawnb99 said:


> Yep that looks good. Add the heat sink for the Aquero it’s worth it even if you don’t need the extra power.
> 
> An option if you don’t need the Aquero in the front bay is get a Quadro instead, you lose voltage control and can handles less watts but is cheaper, then add a normal inline temp sensor instead of the Calitemp, I haven’t found them to be that more accurate then a normal one, at least not enough for the extra cost. Can even connect the flow sensor with an added cable.
> 
> I suggest also adding at least one normal temp sensor for ambient temps


Pumps and fans are PWM so I guess it would still work find. I'll have to think about if I want the display enough.




GTXJackBauer said:


> I'm not sure but I think they've talked about the SILENT WINGS 3 (PWM) here as possibly not being fully PWM compatible. I'd just check that out. I think it was those fans unless it was another brand.


Well ****, and these were the fans that are the best for my setup. 

A quick google and yes there seems to be some info from a year ago. Is the issue still current? I'll have to do some more searching.


----------



## valvehead

GTXJackBauer said:


> I'm not sure but I think they've talked about the SILENT WINGS 3 (PWM) here as possibly not being fully PWM compatible. I'd just check that out. I think it was those fans unless it was another brand.



I can confirm that the Silent Wings 3 fans have a weak internal pullup. The fan control is uneven with a sudden increase in speed near 100% PWM.


This is easily fixed with the Diva Mod. I tweaked the resistor values to give a very smooth PWM response. I'll report back later when I have a chance to check the values I used.


I hope this doesn't deter someone from considering the SW3 fans though. I'm really enjoying mine since they have the lowest motor noise of any fan I've tried so far.


EDIT:
My Diva Mod is sealed up in heatshrink, but I was able to determine the values through testing. Apparently I ended up using the same values that are quoted in this post (560Ω series and 2.2kΩ pullup resistors).


----------



## InfoSeeker

MADworld said:


> Yes I was planning on using the NEXT but changed plans from dual loop to single loop. I agree as you say that one pump would strugle too much so I was going to use the "EK-XTOP Revo Dual D5 Serial". However the NEXT is not compatible with that top.
> 
> I'm still curious as to what, if anything, I loose by changing to a "normal" pwm pump compared to the NEXT.





Shawnb99 said:


> You’d lose all the the extra features.
> IE: the fan and rgbx controls



I see the D5 NEXT as more of a stand-alone device that does not need an aquaero.
The only capability you really loose is the virtual sensors.

D5 Next = 119.90 EUR

If you have an aquaero, for slightly less additional cost (compared to D5 NEXT) you can get extra capability with:
D5 w/PWM = 74.90 EUR
QUADRO = 39.90 EUR (provides 4 Fan ports/controllers & RGBpx & flow/temp sensors)

Edit: if doing two D5 PWM pumps with one QUADRO you are further ahead, and two D5 PWM only puts you miles ahead.


----------



## Shawnb99

They really need to release a dual top for the D5 Next or least maker if clearer what tops if there are any that can be used for dual option.
Plus if they put temp sensor on the outlet nozzle so it’s accurate and made an easier way to calibrate the flow meter it would be an unbeatable pump.


----------



## GAN77

MADworld said:


> A quick google and yes there seems to be some info from a year ago. Is the issue still current? I'll have to do some more searching.


Bequiet Silent Wings 3 140mm BL071, 9 pieces work fine with me QUADRO fan controller.


----------



## MADworld

Thanks everyone, I revised my plan


The Quadro seems to cover what I need, unless i opt for the display.

My fans draw ~3.6W x 12 = 43.2W
The Quadro has a 25W limit per channel


Splitty9 draws it's power from the Quadro/Aquaero so I would need two Splitty9. A XSPC 8 Way PWM Splitter Hub would draw it's power from SATA instead. I could put all fans on the same hub and do only one Diva mod instead of two. 
You can do the mod between the fan hub and Quadro can't you?
I can do the soldering and the two pumps, that the mod was initially intended for, draw 46W so I don't even need to think about changing resistor values do I? 


I believe that the 2x AC D5 PWM pumps can also use one header with a Y splitter, to get the same PWM signal, sense I want to run them at the same speed anyway. No power issues either sense they draw it from a molex.


----------



## MADworld

GAN77 said:


> Bequiet Silent Wings 3 140mm BL071, 9 pieces work fine with me QUADRO fan controller.


If this ends up being true the Diva mod would be unnecessary. I've been unable to find any other confirmation on this, just speculation.


In German so I had to google translate

https://forum.aquacomputer.de/berwa...und-silent-wings-3-neue-firmware-und-as-2018/
Q: I do not have the fans, but would it actually work with the new QUADRO?

A: Theoretically yes, but why take a fan of which one knows in advance that there can be problems.

https://www.hardwareluxx.de/communi...-4-kanal-pwm-und-rgbpx-steuerung-1203317.html
Q: The PWM control of some fans may not always work optimally with any lousy PWM headers on mainboards, but with an Aquaero this is not a problem and certainly also with the Quadro.

A:
Except for Silent Wings 3
But the Quadro should not be a problem anymore.


----------



## GAN77

MADworld said:


> A:
> Except for Silent Wings 3
> But the Quadro should not be a problem anymore.


My assembly is an external radiator with Silent Wings 3 and Quadro.

https://forums.overclockers.ru/viewtopic.php?f=118&t=599554&start=80


----------



## MADworld

GAN77 said:


> My assembly is an external radiator with Silent Wings 3 and Quadro.
> 
> https://forums.overclockers.ru/viewtopic.php?f=118&t=599554&start=80


The SW3 can run from ~300-1000RPM. Issue has been that the change in PWM signal strength and the resulting PWM has been far from linear with the Aquaero.
More details in the link and there is even more if you search this thread.
https://www.overclock.net/forum/246-air-cooling/1692337-quiet-silent-wing-3-pwm-control-issues.html

Are you certain that the issue explained in that thread does not affect the Quadro?


----------



## GAN77

MADworld said:


> Are you certain that the issue explained in that thread does not affect the Quadro?


I do not have these problems. I can more accurately check in two weeks, now I'm on vacation.


----------



## MADworld

GAN77 said:


> I do not have these problems. I can more accurately check in two weeks, now I'm on vacation.


Thanks man, I can have the Diva mod as a backup plan but it's always nice the less one needs to mess with stuff to get it working. 

Once I get my own Qaudro I could verify it as well and people wont mind using the SW3 fans, because they are great at low RPM.


----------



## VeritronX

pretty sure if was mentioned in this thread when the quadro launched that the pullup problem was prevented on the quadro itself


----------



## MADworld

VeritronX said:


> pretty sure if was mentioned in this thread when the quadro launched that the pullup problem was prevented on the quadro itself


I've read over 1/3 of this thread by now but did not come by that info yet. Thanks for telling me.


----------



## broodro0ster

MADworld said:


> I just read 6+ months of post and googled but I still got some stuff I need help with.
> 
> I'm not sure of the best way to control the speed of the fans
> 
> Should I use
> Temperature difference of highest and coldest water temp
> Temperature difference of highest water temp and ambient
> Water temp only
> 
> Something else?
> 
> 
> From reading this seems to also be system specific to some degree so basically:
> 
> CPU + SLI
> 
> Rads: 560 + 420 + 420 + 280
> 
> 12x fans


Temperature difference between the watertemp and ambient. I use the lowest watertemp in my loop, but the highest temp is also fine. I will be 1-2°C higher than the lowest temp, but that's not a problem.


----------



## Alex132

I have a temperature sensor after my CPU+GPU and just before my radiators (ie; the hottest water temp). I base my fans off of that going from around 20-45c scale. Usually sticks around 28-30c max water temps in summer and around 20-22c max water temps in winter.


Ambient air temps is a nice reading to have, but I wouldn't base my fan speeds off of it as much as I would the water temps.


----------



## broodro0ster

Alex132 said:


> I have a temperature sensor after my CPU+GPU and just before my radiators (ie; the hottest water temp). I base my fans off of that going from around 20-45c scale. Usually sticks around 28-30c max water temps in summer and around 20-22c max water temps in winter.
> 
> 
> Ambient air temps is a nice reading to have, but I wouldn't base my fan speeds off of it as much as I would the water temps.


But the difference between ambient and watertemp (delta T) involves both factors.
And then I use a set point controller to achieve a 8C delta. So my fans never run too loud and I'm always getting the best temps with the lowest possible noise for that ambient temp.


----------



## Alex132

broodro0ster said:


> But the difference between ambient and watertemp (delta T) involves both factors.
> And then I use a set point controller to achieve a 8C delta. So my fans never run too loud and I'm always getting the best temps with the lowest possible noise for that ambient temp.


I'd rather have my fans work harder in hotter temperatures to try achieve a closer water temp to my ideal even if it means a larger ambient water delta.


----------



## broodro0ster

Alex132 said:


> I'd rather have my fans work harder in hotter temperatures to try achieve a closer water temp to my ideal even if it means a larger ambient water delta.


My fans always spin 1000rpm in normal games and 1150rpm in very heavy games, regardless of ambient temps. To lower my water temp with 1°C, my fans needs to spin 200rpm faster. And everything above 1200rpm is too loud for my liking. So I'm getting the best temps possible with the fans never going too loud. And I don't care if my GPU runs at 36°C or 42°C. And my CPU runs barely warmer.


----------



## war4peace

broodro0ster said:


> But the difference between ambient and watertemp (delta T) involves both factors.


That's why I avoid it. I need one measurement only, and that is liquid temperature.
At the same time I agree it depends on hardware setup. I have tried multiple methods and the liquid temperature one was most fitting for me and my hardware. For others it might not work, depending on their needs and preferences.


----------



## broodro0ster

war4peace said:


> That's why I avoid it. I need one measurement only, and that is liquid temperature.
> At the same time I agree it depends on hardware setup. I have tried multiple methods and the liquid temperature one was most fitting for me and my hardware. For others it might not work, depending on their needs and preferences.


My indoor temperature isn't stable at all so my fans would go from super quiet to freaking loud if I'd cool by watertemp only, which I don't like. 
If my ambient temp raises 6°C, my CPU and GPU also raise 6°C but I don't care as said before because my GPU sits usually between 36-42°C which is fine for me. My average CPU temp is around 5-10°C hotter depending on the game.


----------



## Alex132

broodro0ster said:


> My fans always spin 1000rpm in normal games and 1150rpm in very heavy games, regardless of ambient temps. To lower my water temp with 1°C, my fans needs to spin 200rpm faster. And everything above 1200rpm is too loud for my liking. So I'm getting the best temps possible with the fans never going too loud. And I don't care if my GPU runs at 36°C or 42°C. And my CPU runs barely warmer.



That makes complete sense, yeah. Luckily I have a massive amount of radiator space so things never get too loud or heat up too fast.


----------



## war4peace

broodro0ster said:


> My indoor temperature isn't stable at all so my fans would go from super quiet to freaking loud if I'd cool by watertemp only, which I don't like.


That's why I said it depends on hardware setup. If you have a huge radiator or multiple radiators, using delta tamp will negate the radiators' cooling potential. If you have just enough (or not quite enough) radiator surface, you're better off using delta temperatures, otherwise you would be drowned in fan noise.

My own Delta T is 4 degrees Celsius with 230mm fans at 550 RPM (barely audible). I use target liquid temperature of 40 degrees Celsius, which I can reach when using both my GTX 1080 Ti cards in SLI at maximum power (e.g. while playing World of Tanks without VSync). At that point, the fans slowly ramp up to keep the liquid temperature at 40 degrees Celsius, gradually taking advantage of my MoRa 420 radiator's insane cooling capacity, with highest fan speed being 577 RPM since July 3rd during a gaming session and very hot summer day.


----------



## Alex132

Doesn't 40c seem rather hot?


----------



## GTXJackBauer

Alex132 said:


> Doesn't 40c seem rather hot?


It is pretty warm but not foreign when it comes to two high end GPUs in SLI. When I had two GTX 780s in SLI, my water temps got as high as 40c-42c. Of course I set my alarms so it wouldn't get much higher than that. I believe my soft tubing can withstand up to 60c-65c iirc. I will never let my liquid get 50c+ as I feel that could start degrading the loop and create issues along the way.

Currently I use a single RTX 2080 Ti w/ a OC'd CPU and it's set at 45c for audible alarm and 50c for emergency shutdown.


----------



## war4peace

Alex132 said:


> Doesn't 40c seem rather hot?


Not at all. AIOs can get to 55 degrees Celsius (liquid temperature), and you also have to take into account that 2x GTX 1080 Tis in SLI, plus CPU, plus VRMs (I have a mobo monoblock) generate a lot of heat, 850W power dissipation is normal with my machine under load. Also, with no AC currently in my house, ambient temperature stays at 30 degrees Celsius during summer. Furthermore, 40 degrees Celsius is the liquid temperature at its highest point (when entering the radiator), exit temperature is 37.5-38 degrees Celsius.

I will switch to dual-loop in the near future, with a 200mm/85mm thick radiator with 200mm fans in push-pull cooling my CPU+VRM and the giant MoRa 420 cooling my GPUs only, this would decrease temperatures across the board to liquid temp levels around 35-36 degrees Celsius during load.


----------



## FlyInfinity

Probably a dumb question, but am I able to convert my aquaero 6 LT to an XT?


----------



## InfoSeeker

FlyInfinity said:


> Probably a dumb question, but am I able to convert my aquaero 6 LT to an XT?



I believe so, but the display module will be a special order. Contact support @ aquacomputer.de


----------



## d0mmie

Nevermind, seems I answered my own questions


----------



## Shawnb99

FlyInfinity said:


> Probably a dumb question, but am I able to convert my aquaero 6 LT to an XT?




Yes but you can’t use the IR remote.
The LT model lacks the IR receiver


----------



## FlyInfinity

Thanks guys!


----------



## rolandos582

So i have a question here. I can't get rotation speeds on my pumps anymore but I could previously. I'm not too sure what's going on.

I run 2 Aquacomputer D5's with PWM signal. The PWM signal is connected to my aquaero 6 XT. Doesn't matter what port I use, still no readouts. The fans work fine on all channels.

What am I doing wrong?


----------



## GTXJackBauer

rolandos582 said:


> So i have a question here. I can't get rotation speeds on my pumps anymore but I could previously. I'm not too sure what's going on.
> 
> I run 2 Aquacomputer D5's with PWM signal. The PWM signal is connected to my aquaero 6 XT. Doesn't matter what port I use, still no readouts. The fans work fine on all channels.
> 
> What am I doing wrong?


That's interesting. 

Have you checked the cables to the pump in case the RPM signal wire has come loose? Assuming the header works with no issue and shows an RPM for a fan and such.


----------



## rolandos582

GTXJackBauer said:


> That's interesting.
> 
> Have you checked the cables to the pump in case the RPM signal wire has come loose? Assuming the header works with no issue and shows an RPM for a fan and such.


I got my pumps sleeved by a guy, since I wanted different lenghts and have no experience with it. Since then it's not working, so might be something wrong with the cable/sleeve. The headers on my aquaero work fine with the fans, just not both the pumps.


----------



## elderan

Anyone using the flow senors on the d5 next pumps? I built my system but didnt leave enough room to kink the tubes so wondering if its worth redoing it to get the sensor working or just ordering high flow senors instead.


----------



## Shawnb99

elderan said:


> Anyone using the flow senors on the d5 next pumps? I built my system but didnt leave enough room to kink the tubes so wondering if its worth redoing it to get the sensor working or just ordering high flow senors instead.


Add a ball valve to your loop instead. I'd still prefer a high flow sensor myself, I just don't like the idea of having to stop flow for any amount of time with the pump running.


----------



## elderan

Shawnb99 said:


> Add a ball valve to your loop instead. I'd still prefer a high flow sensor myself, I just don't like the idea of having to stop flow for any amount of time with the pump running.


I am most like going to just add 2x high flow senors, I have a 2 loop system. I have used them in the past and like them, I have one from my last build but it leaked. 

I mean if I got to redo some of the loop might as well add something thats more accurate and easier to deal with long term.


----------



## Moose-Tech

I have a high flow meter from AQ and I love it.

I like seeing the actual flow rate in numbers as opposed to watching the hamster wheel roll <although I do have one of those as well >

The only problem is that it is kind of big and NOT real cool looking, so I hid mine in the case basement. Also the connecting flow cable is very delicate so be careful when stuffing wires back in your case.
But it works great and connects up to Aquaero real easy. Mine was recognized immediately and almost installed itself.


----------



## skupples

Moose-Tech said:


> I have a high flow meter from AQ and I love it.
> 
> I like seeing the actual flow rate in numbers as opposed to watching the hamster wheel roll <although I do have one of those as well >
> 
> The only problem is that it is kind of big and NOT real cool looking, so I hid mine in the case basement. Also the connecting flow cable is very delicate so be careful when stuffing wires back in your case.
> But it works great and connects up to Aquaero real easy. Mine was recognized immediately and almost installed itself.


short, to the point n 100% factual. That giant 3 pin, the pins always come outta' em.

They also like to randomly die. I plan to upgrade to one of the AIO MIPS devices after my current one fails.

mine's currently nearly directly off my pump. :O



rolandos582 said:


> I got my pumps sleeved by a guy, since I wanted different lenghts and have no experience with it. Since then it's not working, so might be something wrong with the cable/sleeve. The headers on my aquaero work fine with the fans, just not both the pumps.


i'd make sure they got the pins all the way back in. Just hold the head in one hand, and push down each wire. It should lock in place(with a ~1mm wiggle), due to the little clip on each pin.


----------



## Streetdragon

Yesterday a "funny" problem startet with my 6 pro.
1. Header : 8 Fans
2. header : 4 Fans
3. Header : 1 200mm fan
3. Header : 3 Fans

Most fans are Scythe Grand Flex 4Pin PWM

As soon as i set the header 1,2 or 4 to PWM the overcurrent protetion kicks in. They should only run at 30%. Thats around 700-800Rpm.
Voltage controling the fans still working, but not that what i want. I can life with that.

But will my 6Pro die in the next days? What happend? 
The overcurrent problem never happend befor. Only when Header1 runs at 100%


----------



## GTXJackBauer

I'd call the their CS right now. The Germans should be up and running as we speak.


----------



## skupples

^^
that's an easy work load for an AQ6.


----------



## Moose-Tech

Streetdragon said:


> Yesterday a "funny" problem startet with my 6 pro.
> 1. Header : 8 Fans
> 2. header : 4 Fans
> 3. Header : 1 200mm fan
> 3. Header : 3 Fans
> 
> Most fans are Scythe Grand Flex 4Pin PWM
> 
> As soon as i set the header 1,2 or 4 to PWM the overcurrent protetion kicks in. They should only run at 30%. Thats around 700-800Rpm.
> Voltage controling the fans still working, but not that what i want. I can life with that.
> 
> But will my 6Pro die in the next days? What happend?
> The overcurrent problem never happend befor. Only when Header1 runs at 100%


Check if all your fan connections are all tight. If one is loose it could cause overamping.


----------



## Streetdragon

Checked all connetions(Fans,Temp sensores,power). Were all right in place. Cleaned the aquaero PCB with a brush too. So far it looks all fine.
As long as i dont use PWM mode xD

The sound of the overcurrent protection is "stressful"


----------



## InfoSeeker

Streetdragon said:


> Checked all connetions(Fans,Temp sensores,power). Were all right in place. Cleaned the aquaero PCB with a brush too. So far it looks all fine.
> As long as i dont use PWM mode xD
> 
> The sound of the overcurrent protection is "stressful"



Those "Scythe Grand Flex 4Pin PWM" are fairly power hungry at 5,6 W each, but ports 2, 3, & 4 should be under the 30 W aquaero port limit.

The only commonality that pops out is the 3 ports that go over-current, all have multiple fans...

Your best trouble shooting response will probably come from support at aquacomputer.de


----------



## dng25

... WTH these MPS flow meters leaked on me twice..


----------



## Jubijub

hello everyone !

My beloved FastLearner build has just died on me (no sure precisely what it is, but I would go for dead mobo/CPU).

Because I will need to rebuild, I am thinking going for a dual loop system this time (for flexibility).

Questions about the new D5 next pump : 
- I understand the RGBpx connector can be used as an Aquabus connector : can I use a Splitty 4 to connect them to the AQ6, or does it need to be directly connected ?
- Is there a way to drive the LED colors from the AQ6 ?

Last, more practical : is there a topic on the D5 next pump ? I couldn'd find it


----------



## GTXJackBauer

Jubijub said:


> hello everyone !
> 
> My beloved FastLearner build has just died on me (no sure precisely what it is, but I would go for dead mobo/CPU).
> 
> Because I will need to rebuild, I am thinking going for a dual loop system this time (for flexibility).
> 
> Questions about the new D5 next pump :
> - I understand the RGBpx connector can be used as an Aquabus connector : can I use a Splitty 4 to connect them to the AQ6, or does it need to be directly connected ?
> - Is there a way to drive the LED colors from the AQ6 ?
> 
> Last, more practical : is there a topic on the D5 next pump ? I couldn'd find it


Their forum search doesn't work. Took sometime but finally found their link for ya.


----------



## InfoSeeker

dng25 said:


> ... WTH these MPS flow meters leaked on me twice..



The little boots that seal around the sensor probes protruding into the coolant stream degrade over time, and can start leaking. For that reason I have stopped using MPS sensors altogether.


----------



## InfoSeeker

Jubijub said:


> Questions about the new D5 next pump :
> 
> - I understand the RGBpx connector can be used as an Aquabus connector : can I use a Splitty 4 to connect them to the AQ6, or does it need to be directly connected ?
> - Is there a way to drive the LED colors from the AQ6 ?



- You would configure the port to be either an aquabus or a RGBpx port, mutually exclusive. Splitty4 is for fans.
- The aquaero has a single RGB LED port. If you want to drive individually addressable RGBpx strips, try farbwerk 360


----------



## Jubijub

InfoSeeker said:


> - You would configure the port to be either an aquabus or a RGBpx port, mutually exclusive. Splitty4 is for fans.
> - The aquaero has a single RGB LED port. If you want to drive individually addressable RGBpx strips, try farbwerk 360


- sorry I mean the RGBpx splitty 4. But I understand all it does is route the LED signal to all 4 fans, but I would still need something that generates that LED signal
Ideally for lights I would like "something" that I can use with Aquasuite that would help me drive : 
- external lights (I quite like their AmbiantPX thing)
- internal lights (D5 next pumps maybe ?, EKWB CPU ans GPU blocks, my motherboard (likely an Asus Crosshair VIII Hero). It seems the mobo itself can drive the EKWB blocks, but I am not sure if it would be able to drive a fabwerk. I would prefer "something" than can speak to the AQ6, because I would like to display a color based on the ΔT°. I would be OK to upgrade the fans to Corsair MagLev RGB

- if I use a Fabwerk 360, can it read data from the AQ6 (ΔT° for instance) even when Aquasuite is not on ? I work quite a lot under Linux, and one of the reasons I chose the AQ6 is that it controls the WC irrespective of the OS.


Sounds like the Hubby7 will get busy


----------



## Ashcroft

dng25 said:


> ... WTH these MPS flow meters leaked on me twice..





InfoSeeker said:


> The little boots that seal around the sensor probes protruding into the coolant stream degrade over time, and can start leaking. For that reason I have stopped using MPS sensors altogether.


Yeah that has always been a problem for the MPS series. The small rubber seals around the sensor prongs need to be installed just right and its very easy to do it wrong. There were cases of them coming incorrectly installed from the factory. 
I have been using my 3 since they were first released without problem so I haven't seen any degradation. I would assume they are made with similar material to what orings are made of so they really shouldn't break down.

Contact Aquacomp support for sure. They should sort you out with replacement internals. The community testing thread has some info on installing the rubber seals.


----------



## InfoSeeker

Jubijub said:


> - if I use a Fabwerk 360, can it read data from the AQ6 (ΔT° for instance) even when Aquasuite is not on ? I work quite a lot under Linux, and one of the reasons I chose the AQ6 is that it controls the WC irrespective of the OS.



I currently have a quadro in my case and an aquaero on the external radiator. I pull the case temp from the quadro into the aquaero, make a virtual case/ambient delta in the aquaero, and finally pull the case/ambient delta into a software sensor on the quadro to run the case fans.

All devices are connected by USB only, no aquabus.
This functions with the aquasuite closed. edit: Windows, not familiar with Linux


----------



## Jubijub

InfoSeeker said:


> I currently have a quadro in my case and an aquaero on the external radiator. I pull the case temp from the quadro into the aquaero, make a virtual case/ambient delta in the aquaero, and finally pull the case/ambient delta into a software sensor on the quadro to run the case fans.
> 
> All devices are connected by USB only, no aquabus.
> This functions with the aquasuite closed. edit: Windows, not familiar with Linux


that should work then, I guess the AQ6 is smart enough to figure out from the USB or aquabus how to reach to the quadro.
In your case, what is the link between the two ? USB or Aquabus ?

In my current setup all the things are aquabus related, and it works exactly the same under Linux (even during bios, the AQ6 regulates everything)


----------



## VeritronX

There's an aquasuite service running in the background passing info through the pc.


----------



## skupples

ok, so i'm finally fed up with the fact that I lost fan control via these bitspower sata powered hubs.

what would y'all recommend these days? They'd need to hold 8+ S-GT-AP15s each. 

I love these fans, but 32 running @ 100%, a foot away... just no.


----------



## GTXJackBauer

skupples said:


> ok, so i'm finally fed up with the fact that I lost fan control via these bitspower sata powered hubs.
> 
> what would y'all recommend these days? They'd need to hold 8+ S-GT-AP15s each.
> 
> I love these fans, but 32 running @ 100%, a foot away... just no.


I really like Aquacomputer's PWM and USB hubs. They feel well made and work really well.

I should note, this particular fan hub isn't powered by the PSU but from the AQ6 channel that I use. If you're doing the same with the existing hub, replace it with the one I linked. Can't go wrong otherwise look for another hub that is self powered and only has one tach in return.


----------



## Bartdude

GTXJackBauer said:


> I really like Aquacomputer's PWM and USB hubs. They feel well made and work really well.
> 
> I should note, this particular fan hub isn't powered by the PSU but from the AQ6 channel that I use. If you're doing the same with the existing hub, replace it with the one I linked. Can't go wrong otherwise look for another hub that is self powered and only has one tach in return.





skupples said:


> ok, so i'm finally fed up with the fact that I lost fan control via these bitspower sata powered hubs.
> 
> what would y'all recommend these days? They'd need to hold 8+ S-GT-AP15s each.
> 
> I love these fans, but 32 running @ 100%, a foot away... just no.



As Jack says above Aquacomputer items are top notch kit, however as he states you'd need an AQ6 to use those PWM Splitty9 he linked in order to power the fans. Connecting them to a mobo header wouldn't work as it wouldn't supply enough power for 8+ fans.
You didn't state if your on air or water? if your water cooling I can strongly recommend the AQ6, yes it will cost some but it would give you total control over your loop. However if you went that route I'd suggest also adding a Quadro so you didn't use up all the PWM headers on the AQ6 just for fans!

EDIT: This is basically what I'm doing with Darkside Gentle Tyhoons


----------



## GTXJackBauer

Bartdude said:


> As Jack says above Aquacomputer items are top notch kit, however as he states you'd need an AQ6 to use those PWM Splitty9 he linked in order to power the fans. Connecting them to a mobo header wouldn't work as it wouldn't supply enough power for 8+ fans.
> You didn't state if your on air or water? if your water cooling I can strongly recommend the AQ6, yes it will cost some but it would give you total control over your loop. However if you went that route I'd suggest also adding a Quadro so you didn't use up all the PWM headers on the AQ6 just for fans!
> 
> EDIT: This is basically what I'm doing with Darkside Gentle Tyhoons


+1 

To add to what bart said, if you feel the AQ6 is a bit out of budget, that's if you don't already own one, have a look at their affordable version called the Aquaero 6 LT. It's the exact same controller just without a front display but still has all the bells and whistles. You just tuck it in your system somewhere or what have you.


----------



## skupples

yes, of course i have an AQ6XT, first run in fact. Pretty sure I'm one of the first few posts in this thread, Thus why I was asking here.  

thanks, I had forgotten about their hubs.


----------



## Shawnb99

skupples said:


> yes, of course i have an AQ6XT, first run in fact. Pretty sure I'm one of the first few posts in this thread, Thus why I was asking here.
> 
> thanks, I had forgotten about their hubs.


Post #12 to be exact. 

Just chain as many Splitty9's together as needed.


----------



## Moose-Tech

skupples said:


> yes, of course i have an AQ6XT, first run in fact. Pretty sure I'm one of the first few posts in this thread, Thus why I was asking here.
> 
> thanks, I had forgotten about their hubs.



I think I remembered reading this in a forum somewhere (but can't remember where now).

If the Splitty9 needs more amps than you want to pull from the AQ6, You can always mod a standard fan extension cable by removing the 12v power wires.
Then get a molex or sata power splitter that has fan headers. Carefully remove the pins from the fan headers from their sockets and then re-insert them (in the proper order) to the fan extension cables.

This will alow you to power the Spltty9 from your 12v rails but use the RPM signal from the PWM header on the AQ6. Just like you do with your water pump.
BTW - This will also allow your AQ6 to run a little cooler without all that fan wattage being run through it.

Got some Splitty9's for my next build and was going to mod this cable up myself.


----------



## Barefooter

Moose-Tech said:


> I think I remembered reading this in a forum somewhere (but can't remember where now).
> 
> If the Splitty9 needs more amps than you want to pull from the AQ6, You can always mod a standard fan extension cable by removing the 12v power wires.
> Then get a molex or sata power splitter that has fan headers. Carefully remove the pins from the fan headers from their sockets and then re-insert them (in the proper order) to the fan extension cables.
> 
> This will alow you to power the Spltty9 from your 12v rails but use the RPM signal from the PWM header on the AQ6. Just like you do with your water pump.
> BTW - This will also allow your AQ6 to run a little cooler without all that fan wattage being run through it.
> 
> Got some Splitty9's for my next build and was going to mod this cable up myself.



That is what I did I made custom cables where I used two PCI ports off of the power supply, each powering two Splitty9s. The red and black cables are the power and ground respectively. I put both the RPM and PWM wires into one grey sleeve and ran those over to the Aquaeros.










.


----------



## InfoSeeker

Jubijub said:


> [snip]
> In your case, what is the link between the two ? USB or Aquabus ?
> [snip]



In this build I used NO aquabus, all communications are USB. Primarily because I believe you loose the fan & RGBpx controllers on the quadro with the aquabus connected.



VeritronX said:


> There's an aquasuite service running in the background passing info through the pc.



This is the kicker... I believe this is a Windows service that aquasuite uses, if Linux emulates it, then you may be OK, if not, ???.

It may be worth your effort to shoot an email to support at aquacomputer.de


----------



## skupples

Moose-Tech said:


> I think I remembered reading this in a forum somewhere (but can't remember where now).
> 
> If the Splitty9 needs more amps than you want to pull from the AQ6, You can always mod a standard fan extension cable by removing the 12v power wires.
> Then get a molex or sata power splitter that has fan headers. Carefully remove the pins from the fan headers from their sockets and then re-insert them (in the proper order) to the fan extension cables.
> 
> This will alow you to power the Spltty9 from your 12v rails but use the RPM signal from the PWM header on the AQ6. Just like you do with your water pump.
> BTW - This will also allow your AQ6 to run a little cooler without all that fan wattage being run through it.
> 
> Got some Splitty9's for my next build and was going to mod this cable up myself.


that's not a bad idea...

I think I'll stick to molex going forward. These BP SATA + PWM/tach hub is always pegged @ 100% no matter what i do.


----------



## Moose-Tech

I use HWiNFO64 v6.10-3880

Set to run at startup and display sensors in minimized mode. Always running.

It's nice because it starts up and syncs up with Aquasuite very quickly.


----------



## GAN77

Good day! Can I rotate the black ring in the Calitemp digital temperature sensor to position the connector?


----------



## Shawnb99

GAN77 said:


> Good day! Can I rotate the black ring in the Calitemp digital temperature sensor to position the connector?


Yep you can rotate it as much as you like. As long as it sits flat when done you should be able to move it as needed. Be careful with the cables though, they are very very thin and break easily. I'd suggest not connecting the cables till you have everything set up.


----------



## GTXJackBauer

Shawnb99 said:


> Yep you can rotate it as much as you like. As long as it sits flat when done you should be able to move it as needed. Be careful with the cables though, they are very very thin and break easily. I'd suggest not connecting the cables till you have everything set up.


+1


----------



## GAN77

Guys, thanks for the answers!

When I turned it, I did not like the sound. I thought I tore off the thermal sensor soldered to the fitting)
But the sensor is working)

Who has two such sensors in the system, what is the difference in temperature between them the first time they were connected without a callibro?


----------



## Shawnb99

GAN77 said:


> Guys, thanks for the answers!
> 
> When I turned it, I did not like the sound. I thought I tore off the thermal sensor soldered to the fitting)
> But the sensor is working)
> 
> Who has two such sensors in the system, what is the difference in temperature between them the first time they were connected without a callibro?


I have 4 Calitemp and 7 AQ Inline sensors in my loop. Temp difference between them is at most a degree if not less.


----------



## GTXJackBauer

I use 2 calitemp sensors, one in the IN and the other on the OUT of my top radiator. Both less than a degree difference as well.

Don't worry about the noise because I almost had a heartache thinking I just destroyed two pricey temp probes. I spoke to AC and they told me it's fine. I thought I cracked a capacitor of some sort as there was liquid leaking from them with a crushing sound. It's normal they told me and turn it to your liking and plug the wiring after you're set as stated prior.


----------



## PhilNo

First, I'd like to say hello to all of the Aquaero Owners & guru's within the channel. Secondly, I’d want to apologize for the length of my first post here.

I heard that this was the place to post any questions one may have in regard to Aquaero and/or Aquacomputer topics. Even though I have some experience with water-cooling, this is the first chance that I have to work with their products, so that places me into the "Noob" category when it comes to aquaero hardware.

I just finished my build and I’m working with an Aquaero 6 XT, Aquastream XT, Aquacomputer Filter, and a MPS Flow 400 in collaboration with 3 sets of Thermaltake RGB Riing 12’s (each set with it’s individually provided controller). Two sets of the fans are setup in a push-pull configuration and the last set is configured to pull internal heat from the case. All of this working on the base foundation of an ASUS ROG Maximus IX Formula Z270 Motherboard.

I’ve been reading for a few days on this and a few other forums but haven’t seen any really clear manuals or reference materials. So, I’m feeling a bit intimidated by the power and versatility of the Aquaero 6, the last thing I want to do is guestimate plugging any of the components up and run the risk of damaging any of the Aquacomptuer components or the Motherboard.

So, I was hoping that the members of this group could possible help me by either providing some suggestions, guidance, or information such as what types of products I might need to put this together to run smoothly afterwards.

I think the first major question I need assistance with…
1) Are the Thermaltake Riing controllers compatible with the Aquaero 6 XT Fan ports? Or will they not function correctly or possible damage the A/O?

I look forward to reading your replies and suggestions, thank you ahead of time.


----------



## GTXJackBauer

PhilNo said:


> First, I'd like to say hello to all of the Aquaero Owners & guru's within the channel. Secondly, I’d want to apologize for the length of my first post here.
> 
> I heard that this was the place to post any questions one may have in regard to Aquaero and/or Aquacomputer topics. Even though I have some experience with water-cooling, this is the first chance that I have to work with their products, so that places me into the "Noob" category when it comes to aquaero hardware.
> 
> I just finished my build and I’m working with an Aquaero 6 XT, Aquastream XT, Aquacomputer Filter, and a MPS Flow 400 in collaboration with 3 sets of Thermaltake RGB Riing 12’s (each set with it’s individually provided controller). Two sets of the fans are setup in a push-pull configuration and the last set is configured to pull internal heat from the case. All of this working on the base foundation of an ASUS ROG Maximus IX Formula Z270 Motherboard.
> 
> I’ve been reading for a few days on this and a few other forums but haven’t seen any really clear manuals or reference materials. So, I’m feeling a bit intimidated by the power and versatility of the Aquaero 6, the last thing I want to do is guestimate plugging any of the components up and run the risk of damaging any of the Aquacomptuer components or the Motherboard.
> 
> So, I was hoping that the members of this group could possible help me by either providing some suggestions, guidance, or information such as what types of products I might need to put this together to run smoothly afterwards.
> 
> I think the first major question I need assistance with…
> 1) Are the Thermaltake Riing controllers compatible with the Aquaero 6 XT Fan ports? Or will they not function correctly or possible damage the A/O?
> 
> I look forward to reading your replies and suggestions, thank you ahead of time.


Here's a great guide I was able to find. Hope it helps out.


----------



## PhilNo

Thanks for the quick response and the guide. After reviewing it I have reached the conclusion that I'm probably going to need a Hubby7, especially since the MB has what appears to be one embedded USB 2 port, a couple of 5 pin USB Cables (probably 4 of them - MB, Aquaero 6, AquaStream XT, and MPS 400), as well as a couple of 4 pin cables (Female to Female -at a minimum four of them, any specific type, gauge, etc?)

Yet, it now opens a different question.

1) Are you implying that the Riing Controllers will not work and that I have to replace them with a Farbwerk?
2) Or is it that the Riing Controllers are similar to the Farbwerk, and should function?
3) Or should I see if the AquaSuite picks them up?

Sorry to ask more questions of you, yet I'm just being cautious to ensure that I don't mess anything up and have to replace it.
Thanks again and for any further assistance you provide me.


----------



## Shawnb99

PhilNo said:


> Thanks for the quick response and the guide. After reviewing it I have reached the conclusion that I'm probably going to need a Hubby7, especially since the MB has what appears to be one embedded USB 2 port, a couple of 5 pin USB Cables (probably 4 of them - MB, Aquaero 6, AquaStream XT, and MPS 400), as well as a couple of 4 pin cables (Female to Female -at a minimum four of them, any specific type, gauge, etc?)
> 
> Yet, it now opens a different question.
> 
> 1) Are you implying that the Riing Controllers will not work and that I have to replace them with a Farbwerk?
> 2) Or is it that the Riing Controllers are similar to the Farbwerk, and should function?
> 3) Or should I see if the AquaSuite picks them up?
> 
> Sorry to ask more questions of you, yet I'm just being cautious to ensure that I don't mess anything up and have to replace it.
> Thanks again and for any further assistance you provide me.


Aquaero doesn't offer RGB control I don't think, You'd need the Quadro or Farbwerk for that I believe. Along with the Hubby7 I suggest getting a inline temp sensor as well if you don't have one. Also be aware the MPS 400 is not calibrated for tubing 13/10 mm or larger. I have both the high flow and the 400mps one and the 400 is off by .3GPM. 

No idea if you can use the ring controllers or not. I suggest also asking in the AQ english forum and see if someone there can help as well.


----------



## skupples

avoid mips device, just get mechanical flow meter.

quadro/farb for RGB. don't mix & match companies with AquaComputer.


----------



## GTXJackBauer

PhilNo said:


> Thanks for the quick response and the guide. After reviewing it I have reached the conclusion that I'm probably going to need a Hubby7, especially since the MB has what appears to be one embedded USB 2 port, a couple of 5 pin USB Cables (probably 4 of them - MB, Aquaero 6, AquaStream XT, and MPS 400), as well as a couple of 4 pin cables (Female to Female -at a minimum four of them, any specific type, gauge, etc?)
> 
> Yet, it now opens a different question.
> 
> 1) Are you implying that the Riing Controllers will not work and that I have to replace them with a Farbwerk?
> 2) Or is it that the Riing Controllers are similar to the Farbwerk, and should function?
> 3) Or should I see if the AquaSuite picks them up?
> 
> Sorry to ask more questions of you, yet I'm just being cautious to ensure that I don't mess anything up and have to replace it.
> Thanks again and for any further assistance you provide me.



Here's more info on 3rd party RGB fans. 

That's their official forums and you can always email them as well.


----------



## PhilNo

Okay, once again I’d like to thank everyone who has leant their assistance to me in addressing my questions and concerns. Seriously, with your help I know that I won’t cause any major damage to my aquacomputer components nor motherboard.

With that said and the last post from GTXJack referring me to here, it lead me to these two sites... Site1 and [URL="https://forum.aquacomputer.de/weitere-foren/english-forum/108718-thermaltake-fan-rgb-control-with-quadro-and-rgbpx-splitty-4/]Site2[/URL]. And after careful reading and a bit more digging it left these questions?

1) Only to use the Quadro along with 3 sets of ‘1 to 3’ 4-pin splitter cables, such as the Phobya 3-way PWM Splitter Cable, and connecting the fans in each of the groups – Push, Pull, and Exhaust into the 3 way splitter and attaching each group into a port on the Quadro.

2) Or utilize the Ferbwerk, using the aforementioned configuration

3) Or do I actually need to have a Splitty4 for each set (Push, Pull, and Exhaust) and then run a cable (4-pin) from each of those to either the Quadro or Ferbwerk.

I’m aware that in order to utilize the Aquabus and USB capabilities that I am going to need to possible have two Hubby7’s one to connect the USB ports from the Aquaero 6 XT, Aquastream XT, and MB together and the other to connect the auqabus from the Aquaero XT, Aquastream XT, and Quadro. And from what I’ve been able to ascertain is that I will be able to utilize the Riing Fans, I just have to be aware of the 4-pin outs.

The desired end result is to control the Riing fans that are set up in a Push-Pull (3x push; radiator; 3x pull) configuration and the remaining 3x Riing fans setup as exhaust to use Aquaero 6 XT to handle the RGB capabilities and the Fan speeds base on results obtained from temperature sensors and possible adjust the Aquasteam XT pump speed based on temperatures and flow results.

If need be to help everyone help me I can possible produce a schematic to show what I currently have, if it will help. I will start working on it once I get back home.

And once again I am very, very, very appreciative of the assistance and support that this community of guru's have provided me already. I know that each of you can relate with doing something only to regret it because something became toast because you set it up incorrectly and now you had to replace it. So thank you for saving me the hardship of having to go through that experience again.


----------



## Leonko

PhilNo said:


> 2) Or utilize the Ferbwerk, using the aforementioned configuration


lol, farbwerk is NOT for PWM fans ...



PhilNo said:


> I’m aware that in order to utilize the Aquabus and USB capabilities that I am going to need to possible have two Hubby7’s





PhilNo said:


> Seriously, with your help I know that I won’t cause any major damage to my aquacomputer components nor motherboard.


this is so true, rofl 

man, just get quadro. connect fans with spliter or Splitty4 to it. And you really dont need 2x Hubby7. Just connect every USB to it, and one to motherboard and thats it. Dont complicate things ...


----------



## skupples

It sounds like you're over complicating things. Be aware of redundancies between some AQ products. its silly to give each bank of fans separate control. It's a much saner, and easier setup to just treat all radiator fans as one massive bank. They either go up, or down. You don't need separate control for push/pull, they should always be at the same speed, best way to do this is just bind them all to one header. You can always offload power if you're worried about power draw, but the Aquaero is a tough little bugger. My running time is insane. It's nearly 90% up time since the 6 series dropped, which I wanna say is closing in on 7-8 years. 

boil it down to as few parts as necessary, like Leonko briefly touched on.


----------



## Ironsmack

For people that owns AMD TR CPU's, what do you guys use to monitor CPU temps?

Im still using Open hardware monitor (yah i know, its old but i like the gadget feature), but it obviously doesn't show the temp for the CPU.

I need an updated software monitoring that the Aquasuite can read so i can use that to ramp up/down my fans based on load. Thanks


----------



## Aenra

Ironsmack said:


> For people that owns AMD TR CPU's, what do you guys use to monitor CPU temps?


Portable hwinfo, with about 54836241248 of its sensors disabled 

It's heavy on resources, overly aggressive in its polling by default and frankly, belongs solely in the 'toys for boys' category.. you know, we add and add and add only so as to play with all the stuff we've added, needlessly over-complicating our life because.. whatever? _That_ category.
However, it's often updated, it's reliable and it's what most folks (ie where it matters) use; always a plus as sooner or later, you're bound to need compare notes as it were.


----------



## Ironsmack

Aenra said:


> Portable hwinfo, with about 54836241248 of its sensors disabled
> 
> It's heavy on resources, overly aggressive in its polling by default and frankly, belongs solely in the 'toys for boys' category.. you know, we add and add and add only so as to play with all the stuff we've added, needlessly over-complicating our life because.. whatever? _That_ category.
> However, it's often updated, it's reliable and it's what most folks (ie where it matters) use; always a plus as sooner or later, you're bound to need compare notes as it were.



Thanks for the help! What kind of resources? CPU Usage?

I just installed it and with 24 threads... eh, i dont see any impact on my end.


----------



## war4peace

Aenra said:


> It's heavy on resources, overly aggressive in its polling by default and frankly, belongs solely in the 'toys for boys' category.. you know, we add and add and add only so as to play with all the stuff we've added, needlessly over-complicating our life because.. whatever? _That_ category.


While I don't particularly agree with the "heavy on resources" and "overly aggressive" with its default polling, it's indeed mostly used as a toy by many users. However, if you need to have data for an in-depth analysis of a component, it's irreplaceable.



Ironsmack said:


> Thanks for the help! What kind of resources? CPU Usage?


There generally isn't any detectable usage, mine uses 6 MB of RAM and on average, during the last 15 days 10 hours my system uptime, used 0.495% of my CPU time.


----------



## 414347

I have been using HWinfo for years, It sits in my system tray so I can always see my needed temps. It takes small amount of resource, at least in my system and Its very helpful when used with Aquasuite. I have tried other payware but tbh. I found HWinfo to be more then enough

To each his own


----------



## GTXJackBauer

I also use HWiNFO with Aquasuite. No issues here. Might need updates from time to time when near gear shows up.


----------



## Aenra

Ironsmack said:


> Thanks for the help! What kind of resources? CPU Usage?
> 
> I just installed it and with 24 threads... eh, i dont see any impact on my end.


You're more than welcome! As to the rest... 

You tend to compare apples with apples; so say, one temp monitoring program to another, on a non-34846352 core CPU, then yeah, you'll clearly notice that compared to other software out there, hwinfo is indeed a -lot- more resource-heavy.
Whether that matters to you or not is your issue alone, but since you asked, i replied.
(i'd tend to distinguish fact [it's heavier on resources] from the empirical or anecdotal [ie your typical, 1 person data pool, "not for me") 
((lastly, your not "seeing it" need not necessarily mean much; i can guarantee you your Windows scheduler 'sees it' just fine and that it can and does have an impact on boost clocks for example))


----------



## Moose-Tech

I have no problem with HWiNFO using up whatever resources it needs for the usefulness of the data it provides.
Especially when you consider how much resources most of the operating systems gobble up. Compared to that HWiNFO is minimal.

If you are overclocking then your system should have the extra bandwidth to support a monitoring utility.


----------



## war4peace

Aenra said:


> You tend to compare apples with apples; so say, one temp monitoring program to another, on a non-34846352 core CPU, then yeah, you'll clearly notice that compared to other software out there, hwinfo is indeed a -lot- more resource-heavy.
> Whether that matters to you or not is your issue alone, but since you asked, i replied.
> (i'd tend to distinguish fact [it's heavier on resources] from the empirical or anecdotal [ie your typical, 1 person data pool, "not for me")
> ((lastly, your not "seeing it" need not necessarily mean much; i can guarantee you your Windows scheduler 'sees it' just fine and that it can and does have an impact on boost clocks for example))


I have tested OCCT, Aquacomputer's monitoring service, SySoft Sandra and HWInfo64 on CPUs ranging from the ole 4690K (4c4t) to Threadripper 2990WX (32c64t). While I admit I never checked the HWInfo64 impact on the Threadripper family (I tested 1950x, 2920x, 2950x and 2990WX), I clearly remember I had performed an in-depth impact of various processes including HWInfo64 on the i9-9980XE and it was below Top 10 impactful processes while the OS was idle. The point is the user should be a lot more worried about leaving a browser or Steam running in the background than using HWInfo64 while benchmarking.


----------



## Aenra

war4peace said:


> below Top 10 impactful processes while the OS was idle
> ...
> while benchmarking


I will tell you what my faults are, never shy away from the truth 
- i lose patience a lot easier than i should, given age and experience
- i tend to try even when i know deep down i shouldn't have; which leads me back to the above.

So for a final effort, lol

You need first convince not just me, but also the average thread reader, that you understand how the term 'impactful' may or may not signify one thing, say, thread(s) usage. You need additionally convince everyone that you're capable of measuring/analysing (different from relating the empirical, that is _your_ empirical) how this kind of software works or does not work with the scheduler and to what effect, as the two are not mutually exclusive. 

You need also, aside from the above, keep in mind that i couldn't give a rat's behind about benchmarking, for reasons i won't even go into, absolutely no reason.
I mentioned, in general, one certain side-effect on top of many positives, about a certain program, on a --certain-- context, it being a question of temp reading. Specifically. And if one only needs to monitor their temps, my reply stands.

You chose to interpret my reply based on your standards, approach and knowledge; perhaps even usage scenarios.. But that is not what i was going for; hope that helps.


----------



## GAN77

Shawnb99 said:


> I have 4 Calitemp and 7 AQ Inline sensors in my loop. Temp difference between them is at most a degree if not less.


As you can see, I have two sensors, and the difference in readings exists. Both are on the table.
Difference 0,74С - is a lot. Need calibration.


----------



## Barefooter

Ironsmack said:


> For people that owns AMD TR CPU's, what do you guys use to monitor CPU temps?
> 
> Im still using Open hardware monitor (yah i know, its old but i like the gadget feature), but it obviously doesn't show the temp for the CPU.
> 
> I need an updated software monitoring that the Aquasuite can read so i can use that to ramp up/down my fans based on load. Thanks





NewUser16 said:


> I have been using HWinfo for years, It sits in my system tray so I can always see my needed temps. It takes small amount of resource, at least in my system and Its very helpful when used with Aquasuite. I have tried other payware but tbh. I found HWinfo to be more then enough
> 
> To each his own





GTXJackBauer said:


> I also use HWiNFO with Aquasuite. No issues here. Might need updates from time to time when near gear shows up.





Moose-Tech said:


> I have no problem with HWiNFO using up whatever resources it needs for the usefulness of the data it provides.
> Especially when you consider how much resources most of the operating systems gobble up. Compared to that HWiNFO is minimal.
> 
> If you are overclocking then your system should have the extra bandwidth to support a monitoring utility.


HWiNFO is a great program as you can see by all the people here using it. I have mine set to start with windows. It takes very little resources and works quite well with Aquasuite. I covered that under software sensors in my guide listed in my signature.

Another nice thing I like about HWiNFO is you can set sensor readings to appear in the task bar. I have both my GPU temps sitting in my task bar so even with HWiNFO minimized I can still easily see my GPU temps.




war4peace said:


> I have tested OCCT, Aquacomputer's monitoring service, SySoft Sandra and HWInfo64 on CPUs ranging from the ole 4690K (4c4t) to Threadripper 2990WX (32c64t). While I admit I never checked the HWInfo64 impact on the Threadripper family (I tested 1950x, 2920x, 2950x and 2990WX), I clearly remember I had performed an in-depth impact of various processes including HWInfo64 on the i9-9980XE and it was below Top 10 impactful processes while the OS was idle. The point is the user should be a lot more worried about leaving a browser or Steam running in the background than using HWInfo64 while benchmarking.


This is great info right here from someone who actually did some testing. Rep for this :thumb:


----------



## skupples

same, just heavily sensor disabled. It just works so well w. AquaSuite.


----------



## war4peace

Aenra said:


> You need first convince not just me, but also the average thread reader, that you understand how the term 'impactful' may or may not signify one thing, say, thread(s) usage.


Actually it's the other way around. You said, and I quote "It's heavy on resources, overly aggressive in its polling by default". This could mean pretty much anything, from "0.1% usage" to "99% usage". In other words, "heavy" is true for very small values of "heavy".
So until you define exactly what "heavy" means to you, I will stand behind the objectively measured metric I measured above in this thread.


----------



## war4peace

Barefooter said:


> This is great info right here from someone who actually did some testing. Rep for this :thumb:


Thanks, I have never officially published my data but I have CSV tables with data so please let me know if you need more info on this.


----------



## jura11

Agree running HWiNFO or SIV64 doesn't have impact on performance like on idle or load, I'm running Aquasuite with HWiNFO plus SIV64,MSI Afterburner with RTSS and no issues

There are several SW which have higher impact on idle or load than these SW 

Hope this helps 

Thanks, Jura


----------



## GTXJackBauer

If you're having issues running HWiNFO64, I think it's time to upgrade the rig. lol


----------



## VeritronX

I like HWInfo because it seems to use just enough resources to do what you ask it to.. only want to know gpu temp you were getting up to while gamjng? only need that sensor to be polled, and you can have it poll once every 5sec or something if you want. it's a hell of a lot better than any of the motherboard / cooler manufacturers supplied windows solutions in the resource usage department.


----------



## Gamma52

Hey all, fortunately it's been a year since my last issue, but alas I'm back. Upgraded the rig by dropping it into a new case with a new EVGA HydroCopper 2080ti since my old Zotac card artifacted. New case = more radiators, and to top it off I added a D5 next, because RGB. 

Anyway, nothing radically different, went from 3 corsair ML fans on channels 1 and 2, and a EK D5 Pump's tach and RPM on Ch4. Now it's 3 fans on CH1, 4 on CH2, and 4 on CH3. Pump is off Ch4 since the D5 next goes off of USB. Using an EVGA Dark Z390 as my mobo so I have 2x USB 2.0 headers, no big deal. one for the 6xt, one for the D5.

Get everything set up, turn the rig on, and no fan action. Aquaero has power, has USB the right way on 6Xt and mobo, fans are plugged into fan channels and not the hi/low, etc headers. No noticeable errors on Aquasuite or the Aquaero, no visible damage on. As always, was careful with all my components on disassembly and reassembly. 

Fans are set to PWM, min/max power set to 50/51%. I don't know if it just **** out on me or what. Combed through the D5 Next page to see if there was anything that looks like it might've altered the settings, looks like it's fine. 

Verified all fans by plugging them into a DC bench power supply.

Anyone have any ideas?

EDIT: Nothing beats a good old fashioned physical cable tug. Figured because I had power to the unit itself from the 5v USB, but no 12v off the molex for the fans, I should triple check it. Looked good,so I tried reseating it. One of the pins on my molex extension had not gone to it's home in the PSU connector and had pushed itself out of the socket. 

Could delete this, but I figure, maybe someone will read this and not underestimate the basic fundamentals of troubleshooting :doh:


----------



## war4peace

It's a good story, shows that when you troubleshoot, you should troubleshoot everything, even things you assumed always work.


----------



## 414347

GTXJackBauer said:


> If you're having issues running HWiNFO64, I think it's time to upgrade the rig. lol


That is a good 1


----------



## d0mmie

Anyone here using an EKWB D5 PWM G2 pump with their Aquaero or Quadro? I'm curious what the minimum RPM reported is, since mine reports 815 RPM at its lowest (should be 1400 really). Oddly enough the pump RPM doesn't start to increase before it hits 35% speed on the controller, meaning there's no reaction between 1-34%. Before I had an Aqua Computer D5 PWM pump, this one reported 1865 RPM at its lowest, unfortunately the pump died only a few months old.

I'm just wondering it this is normal.


----------



## war4peace

I have two in series, their PWM range is between 1400-ish to 4820/4830. They are connected to separate headers.
Weirdly enough, I just tested them to see their minimum RPM and it looks like Aquaero doesn't change their RPM at all. I will have to re-check their settings, although they look fine. Something's not right. (I always keep them at 100% so this issue was overlooked)

LE: scratch the above, their minimum RPM is 800 and 806 RPM respectively at 1% PWM. This doesn't change until I reach 47% PWM for both, then they gradually ramp up to 4830 RPM.
I was incorrect above because the last time I tested them was a couple years ago, wisth an older version of Aquasuite.


----------



## skupples

its pretty common for PWM pumps to behave in this fashion.

my MCP35x2 has a range of like 43-62%

DIVA has covered this topic extensively, with testing, data, etc etc.


----------



## d0mmie

skupples said:


> its pretty common for PWM pumps to behave in this fashion.
> 
> my MCP35x2 has a range of like 43-62%
> 
> DIVA has covered this topic extensively, with testing, data, etc etc.


Aha. Guess we can call that an anomaly since fans seems to report pretty much on point for their RPM spec (Noctua)


----------



## skupples

yeah, not sure... I just remember that "PWM" has a wide implementation. 

"off" is usually around 40%, and max speed is usually around 70%, at least with the range of pumps Diva tested.


----------



## war4peace

...and that's why Aquasuite allows you to set a "fan range" and a "controller range" as well.
The "fan range" allows you to select the minimum and maximum limit for the PWM signal as accepted by the fan (or pump), the "controller range" of 0-100% is constrained by the "fan range".

Taking the example above, if you determine your pump to only change its RPM between 43% and 62%, you set those limits in the fan range and then in the controller page you will still see 0-100% but 0% will correspond to 43% PWM and 100% will correspond to 62% PWM.
Very useful function for both Voltage-based and PWM-based fans and pumps.


----------



## zeroibis

I just wanted to point out another advantage of HWiNFO is not just the normal CPU GPU temp stuff. I for example actually run an Aquaero in an air cooled rig! (oh the humanity!)


I use HWiNFO in combination with the Aquaero do things like control fans for various groups of HDDs and HWiNFOis able to get the temps for all of them.


Also I can use the Aquasuite web with HWiNFO to be able to easily see the utilization of the different HDDs in the server without needing to even connect to the server. This makes remote trouble shooting really easy!


The only down side is that virtual temp sensors are limited to only 3 inputs which is really annoying if a single fan cools more than 3 drives and you want to be able to have a fan curve based on the temperature of the hottest drive.


----------



## InfoSeeker

zeroibis said:


> I just wanted to point out another advantage of HWiNFO is not just the normal CPU GPU temp stuff. I for example actually run an Aquaero in an air cooled rig! (oh the humanity!)
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler
> 
> 
> 
> I use HWiNFO in combination with the Aquaero do things like control fans for various groups of HDDs and HWiNFOis able to get the temps for all of them.
> 
> 
> Also I can use the Aquasuite web with HWiNFO to be able to easily see the utilization of the different HDDs in the server without needing to even connect to the server. This makes remote trouble shooting really easy!
> 
> 
> The only down side is that virtual temp sensors are limited to only 3 inputs which is really annoying if a single fan cools more than 3 drives and you want to be able to have a fan curve based on the temperature of the hottest drive.



If you are not using the other Virtual Temperature Sensors, you can find the max temperature of 9 drives:

V1 = Virtual Sensor 1: Highest temperature Drives 1, 2, 3
V2 = Virtual Sensor 2: Highest temperature Drives 4, 5, 6
V3 = Virtual Sensor 3: Highest temperature Drives 7, 8, 9
MaxTemp = Virtual Sensor 4: Highest temperature V1, V2, V3


----------



## GTXJackBauer

InfoSeeker said:


> If you are not using the other Virtual Temperature Sensors, you can find the max temperature of 9 drives:
> 
> V1 = Virtual Sensor 1: Highest temperature Drives 1, 2, 3
> V2 = Virtual Sensor 2: Highest temperature Drives 4, 5, 6
> V3 = Virtual Sensor 3: Highest temperature Drives 7, 8, 9
> MaxTemp = Virtual Sensor 4: Highest temperature V1, V2, V3


+1 :thumb:


----------



## Ashcroft

skupples said:


> ok, so i'm finally fed up with the fact that I lost fan control via these bitspower sata powered hubs.
> 
> what would y'all recommend these days? They'd need to hold 8+ S-GT-AP15s each.
> 
> I love these fans, but 32 running @ 100%, a foot away... just no.


This is probably way too late but for anyone else looking for hubs;

I have tried a fair few including the modmytoys, Phobya and others I can't recall the names of off the top of my head.
For a long time I have used the Modmytoys unpowered PWM hubs because as standard all pins on all headers are connected which makes them great for Aquabus hubs and a simple 10 second mod makes only one port have the RPM signal connected which makes them perfect as PWM fan hubs. Its also possible to make the mod reversible. They are compact, low cost and simple devices that come in a range of sizes from 2 to eight headers so you can get just the right one for a radiator. They do require a female to female fan cable though.

They then released the powered version with a SATA power plug if you need external power. They work great and introduced flat fan headers and SATA power header so the cables aren't trying to poke their way out of the side of the case and sit nice and flat for other cables to be managed with. The only problem is they are quite large, a fair bit larger than I expected so they take up a fair bit of under the side panel real estate. The problem is reduced by them being flat though as most cables will fit on top of them quite easily.

My favourite for powered hubs though is the Silverstone CPF04 PWM hub. It has its own SATA power cord and PWM cable. Its very compact and uses flat fan headers so its super easy to make neat cable runs.


----------



## skupples

i used to use those simple guys too, but I had a few burn up over the years (fried traces) 

luckily I'm doing all I can do just deal with what i've got. It's pretty easy atm... but it'll be hard once 4k120 revolution hits in a year or two.


----------



## Moose-Tech

I am currently controlling six of my Deepcool CF140's on my Aquaero PWM_1 header with a powered fan hub.
I figured I could route a bunch of fan cables out of sight and also reduce some heat load on the AQ.
It has a designated fan header to report the RPM back to the AQ and is powered by SATA connector.
The hub covers all the fan connectors and power connector but is still very slim. It comes with a sleeved PWM cable that you can run to the AQ and a Velcro pad to stick it somewhere out of sight. 

XSPC 8-Way PWM Splitter Hub V2 (Black)
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07CH1958W/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I actually stacked another XSPC RGB hub (same size) on top this to save room. 
When I got my AquaComputer Hi Flow sensor I was trying to figure how I was gonna mount this damn thing out of sight. 
More velcro and on top of the two hubs. Once hooked into the loop it's very stable. Bingo!


----------



## zeroibis

InfoSeeker said:


> If you are not using the other Virtual Temperature Sensors, you can find the max temperature of 9 drives:
> 
> V1 = Virtual Sensor 1: Highest temperature Drives 1, 2, 3
> V2 = Virtual Sensor 2: Highest temperature Drives 4, 5, 6
> V3 = Virtual Sensor 3: Highest temperature Drives 7, 8, 9
> MaxTemp = Virtual Sensor 4: Highest temperature V1, V2, V3



Problem is that normally a bay cooler for HDDs cool at least 4 drives with a single fan.


So you want the highest temp of 4 drives for each bay. So while the above is nice if you just want to know what number is the hottest it is not very useful if your trying to do actual fan control off it. Your basically limited to a single channel of fan control. 



BTW if someone knows how to create virtual temp sensors outside of the AQ software and then present them to AQ that would be great!


----------



## InfoSeeker

zeroibis said:


> Problem is that normally a bay cooler for HDDs cool at least 4 drives with a single fan.
> 
> 
> So you want the highest temp of 4 drives for each bay. So while the above is nice if you just want to know what number is the hottest it is not very useful if your trying to do actual fan control off it. Your basically limited to a single channel of fan control.
> 
> 
> 
> BTW if someone knows how to create virtual temp sensors outside of the AQ software and then present them to AQ that would be great!



In the given example you would use "Max Temp" to drive the fan controller.

In your instance:
D1-3Ht = Virtual Sensor 1: Highest temperature Drives 1, 2, 3
Max Temp = Virtual Sensor 2: Highest temperature Drive 4, "D1-3Ht"
Then use "Max Temp" to drive your fan controller curve.

You use the 1st virtual sensor IN the 2nd to determine the highest for all four.


----------



## Leonko

I would really like to see and would kill for new Aquaero


----------



## Ashcroft

skupples said:


> i used to use those simple guys too, but I had a few burn up over the years (fried traces)
> 
> luckily I'm doing all I can do just deal with what i've got. It's pretty easy atm... but it'll be hard once 4k120 revolution hits in a year or two.


Oh Fair Dinkum? 
That's pretty bad. I haven't heard of that before. Do you have pictures or details of how much load they were under?

It naturally makes me worry hearing something like that. I'll have to give mine a look over. 
I would have expected the traces to take more than the wires, so they would go first but I'm no electrical expert at all.


----------



## skupples

each one would have sport at least one radiator, so 8 GT AP15s. I had assumed that this is why the modern ModMyToys hubs have little fuses. 

I don't have pictures anymore, no. Specially since it seems OCN didn't retain any of our uploads from the last migration? At least, the photo tab is gone.


----------



## zeroibis

InfoSeeker said:


> In the given example you would use "Max Temp" to drive the fan controller.
> 
> In your instance:
> D1-3Ht = Virtual Sensor 1: Highest temperature Drives 1, 2, 3
> Max Temp = Virtual Sensor 2: Highest temperature Drive 4, "D1-3Ht"
> Then use "Max Temp" to drive your fan controller curve.
> 
> You use the 1st virtual sensor IN the 2nd to determine the highest for all four.





Like I said 1 channel of fan control:


A single fan cools at least 4 drives (there are cadges that do 5 drives but 4 is the most common)


So if I want the hottest drive you need to do:
V1 = Drives 1-3
V2 = Drive 4
V3 = Max Temp 



In this example we can get the max temp of 4 drives and control the fan cooling them with the result. Great!


Now what about the next 4 drives that need to be cooled by the other fan that are in the other cadge. This is just a simple example.




Personally in my use case I actually have way more than just the example above.


----------



## InfoSeeker

zeroibis said:


> Like I said 1 channel of fan control:
> 
> 
> A single fan cools at least 4 drives (there are cadges that do 5 drives but 4 is the most common)
> 
> 
> So if I want the hottest drive you need to do:
> V1 = Drives 1-3
> V2 = Drive 4
> V3 = Max Temp
> 
> 
> 
> In this example we can get the max temp of 4 drives and control the fan cooling them with the result. Great!
> 
> 
> Now what about the next 4 drives that need to be cooled by the other fan that are in the other cadge. This is just a simple example.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Personally in my use case I actually have way more than just the example above.



I will never be a teacher so please bear with me, I am not good at explaining things.

To use your example, you could do two banks of 4 or 5 drives with 2 Virtual Sensors.

V1 = Drives 1-3
V2 = Drives 4,5 & V1, which will yield the max temp for the first bank up to 5 drives.

Then V3 & V4 can be used for a second bank of 4 or 5 drives.

But in your case, with the number of drives you appear to be running, the aquaero may not be the correct tool for you.


----------



## zeroibis

InfoSeeker said:


> I will never be a teacher so please bear with me, I am not good at explaining things.
> 
> To use your example, you could do two banks of 4 or 5 drives with 2 Virtual Sensors.
> 
> V1 = Drives 1-3
> V2 = Drives 4,5 & V1, which will yield the max temp for the first bank up to 5 drives.
> 
> Then V3 & V4 can be used for a second bank of 4 or 5 drives.
> 
> But in your case, with the number of drives you appear to be running, the aquaero may not be the correct tool for you.



Ah, that is a great point about being able to do V1 = Drives 1-3 V2 = Drives 4,5 & V1


Good news is that if you really want you can run multiple aquaero to get more vtemp sensors (in theory). Although I believe your limited to a max of 3 per system? So with 3 of them you could control fans for 6 5 drive cadges.


----------



## Shawnb99

Is the licensing service down for anyone else? Finally hooked up my replacement quadro and I can't register it.

Also having an issue with one of my bottom rad fans. The quadro reads the RPM's as 2032 and nothing I do can change the speeds. Could it be the Quadro, the fans or the Splitty9 they are connected to?


----------



## GTXJackBauer

Shawnb99 said:


> Is the licensing service down for anyone else? Finally hooked up my replacement quadro and I can't register it.
> 
> Also having an issue with one of my bottom rad fans. The quadro reads the RPM's as 2032 and nothing I do can change the speeds. Could it be the Quadro, the fans or the Splitty9 they are connected to?


Might want to check and see everyone's firmware and AQ software is up to date.


----------



## Shawnb99

GTXJackBauer said:


> Might want to check and see everyone's firmware and AQ software is up to date.


The site was down for a bit, it's back up now


----------



## MoDeNa

Hi all,

I own an Aquaero 6 LT and I would like to know how many fans can I install in each of its 4 channels. I am planning to do:

- Channel 1: 7 x Noctua AF12-25 PWM
- Channel 2: 4 x Noctua AF12-25 PWM
- Channel 3: 4 x Noctua AF12-25 PWM
- Channel 4: 1 x D5 pump to monitor and control rpms

Do you think this is possible for the Aquaero 6 LT without compromising its reliability and lifetime?

Cheers!


----------



## war4peace

MoDeNa said:


> Hi all,
> 
> I own an Aquaero 6 LT and I would like to know how many fans can I install in each of its 4 channels. I am planning to do:
> 
> - Channel 1: 7 x Noctua AF12-25 PWM
> - Channel 2: 4 x Noctua AF12-25 PWM
> - Channel 3: 4 x Noctua AF12-25 PWM
> - Channel 4: 1 x D5 pump to monitor and control rpms
> 
> Do you think this is possible for the Aquaero 6 LT without compromising its reliability and lifetime?
> 
> Cheers!


Yes, easily. Noctua AF12-25 PWM takes up 1.68W each and the Aquaero supports 35W per channel.


----------



## InfoSeeker

MoDeNa said:


> Hi all,
> 
> I own an Aquaero 6 LT and I would like to know how many fans can I install in each of its 4 channels. I am planning to do:
> 
> - Channel 1: 7 x Noctua AF12-25 PWM
> - Channel 2: 4 x Noctua AF12-25 PWM
> - Channel 3: 4 x Noctua AF12-25 PWM
> - Channel 4: 1 x D5 pump to monitor and control rpms
> 
> Do you think this is possible for the Aquaero 6 LT without compromising its reliability and lifetime?
> 
> Cheers!



Should not be a problem. According to the manual the aquaero can handle 2,5A or 30W per channel, and the Noctua AF12x25 PWM fans draw 0,14A or 1,68W each. So your worst case with 7 fans would be running at less than 40% of allowable load.

Edit: oops, late post.


----------



## MoDeNa

Many thanks both! I wanted to confirm that.


----------



## IT Diva

Don't forget . . .


With PWM fans, it creates NO load on the power sourcing capability of the Aquaero if you power them from the PSU


----------



## Leonko

how else you can connect aquaero ? if not to PSU ?


----------



## IT Diva

Leonko said:


> how else you can connect aquaero ? if not to PSU ?




I was saying to connect the fans to the PSU, and they won't have any power sourced by the Aquaero, just the PWM control signal


----------



## ciarlatano

IT Diva said:


> Don't forget . . .
> 
> 
> With PWM fans, it creates NO load on the power sourcing capability of the Aquaero if you power them from the PSU





Leonko said:


> how else you can connect aquaero ? if not to PSU ?


The reference was to power the fans directly from the PSU, and control them via the Aquaero.


----------



## MoDeNa

IT Diva said:


> Don't forget . . .
> 
> 
> With PWM fans, it creates NO load on the power sourcing capability of the Aquaero if you power them from the PSU


I will connect all of them directly to the aquaero with PWM hub from Phobya and one PWM cable to the Aquaero.


----------



## Streetdragon

So i postet a month ago or so my problem with my aquaero. Even with only one pwm fan on each header or only one header used:
when i go to pwm controlled speed, ALL header go into overcurrent protection. Powercontrolles is still fine.

hope its stays like that. Next time i buy the one without the screen and hide the controller somewhere in the case^^


----------



## Leonko

IT Diva said:


> I was saying to connect the fans to the PSU, and they won't have any power sourced by the Aquaero, just the PWM control signal





ciarlatano said:


> The reference was to power the fans directly from the PSU, and control them via the Aquaero.


oh ok  i misunderstood it first  anyway, who would do that


----------



## Shawnb99

InfoSeeker said:


> Should not be a problem. According to the manual the aquaero can handle 2,5A or 30W per channel, and the Noctua AF12x25 PWM fans draw 0,14A or 1,68W each. So your worst case with 7 fans would be running at less than 40% of allowable load.
> 
> Edit: oops, late post.


Noctua lists it as :Max. input power 1,68 W. Does that mean how much it draws at startup? I know this was an issue with my Vadar fans which draw a lot more power then advertised resulting in no more then 6 per AQ channel. This was with the heatsink installed as well

Also the AQ can handle 30w per channel but with the heatsink can do another 6w per channel. I'm very interested in knowing exactly how many you can run on a single AQ channel as I'll be swapping out my 24 Vadars for them during the xmas break,


----------



## GTXJackBauer

Just a heads up, aquasuite X.5 is out but only if you join as an insider as it's not officially released but it looks good so far. 

Skimmed through it all in confusion lol but what really stuck out to me was the ability to reorganize your tabs in aquasuite. I guess I'm a bit OCD when it comes to stuff like that.


----------



## InfoSeeker

Shawnb99 said:


> Noctua lists it as :Max. input power 1,68 W. Does that mean how much it draws at startup? I know this was an issue with my Vadar fans which draw a lot more power then advertised resulting in no more then 6 per AQ channel. This was with the heatsink installed as well
> 
> Also the AQ can handle 30w per channel but with the heatsink can do another 6w per channel. I'm very interested in knowing exactly how many you can run on a single AQ channel as I'll be swapping out my 24 Vadars for them during the xmas break,



Not sure how you would distribute the Noctua AF-A12x25 PWM fans across the ports. But if you split evenly between 2 ports, or less per port, you should be OK. I believe I remember Shoggy saying the aquaero was designed to handle inrush startup current if it exceeded the limits for a short period.


----------



## skupples

just run ALL fans to one port, and off all power to the PSU. 

Adjusting individual radiators isn't as effective as you'd think.


----------



## GTXJackBauer

skupples said:


> Adjusting individual radiators isn't as effective as you'd think.


+1


----------



## chibi

Hey guys, I took apart my lcd panel and misplaced the standoffs. I need to find replacements for the m3 6mm f/f standoffs. Does anyone know where to source them quickly and not from china? I don't want to wait 30 days for delivery.


----------



## war4peace

GTXJackBauer said:


> Just a heads up, aquasuite X.5 is out but only if you join as an insider as it's not officially released but it looks good so far.


From the changelog:

<<Bugfix: Effects "color sequence" and "wave" hang up when a data source is used for controlling>>

I have reported and thoroughly tested this bug, they confirmed it, now it's fixed. Hurray!



skupples said:


> Adjusting individual radiators isn't as effective as you'd think.


For single loop, you are right. For dual- or multi-loop it's kind of mandatory


----------



## Excession

skupples said:


> just run ALL fans to one port, and off all power to the PSU.
> 
> Adjusting individual radiators isn't as effective as you'd think.



This is definitely true if you only have one kind of fan in your system, but if you have different types of fans they will inevitably respond differently to the control signal. You want to have all fans _of a specific type_ connected to one port so that you can tailor the fan curves for each type of fan.


Anyways, on to the reason I'm actually posting...


So I have my computer torn apart because I decided to finally sleeve everything. Unfortunately, I must have been careless when I was opening up the pump (an Aquacomputer D5 PWM, which is why I'm posting ITT) because the blue wire separated itself from the PCB. I _think_ it was connected to the solder blob that I circled in red in the uploaded photo, but I'm not completely sure and I couldn't find any good pictures of the PCB online. Does anybody know or have one of the pumps laying around to check? I really don't want to take a soldering iron to it without knowing that I'm doing the right thing.


----------



## GAN77

Excession said:


> This is definitely true if you only have one kind of fan in your system, but if you have different types of fans they will inevitably respond differently to the control signal. You want to have all fans _of a specific type_ connected to one port so that you can tailor the fan curves for each type of fan.
> 
> 
> Anyways, on to the reason I'm actually posting...
> 
> 
> So I have my computer torn apart because I decided to finally sleeve everything. Unfortunately, I must have been careless when I was opening up the pump (an Aquacomputer D5 PWM, which is why I'm posting ITT) because the blue wire separated itself from the PCB. I _think_ it was connected to the solder blob that I circled in red in the uploaded photo, but I'm not completely sure and I couldn't find any good pictures of the PCB online. Does anybody know or have one of the pumps laying around to check? I really don't want to take a soldering iron to it without knowing that I'm doing the right thing.


Good afternoon!

Foto Aqua Computer D5 pump motor with PWM


----------



## Leonko

skupples said:


> Adjusting individual radiators isn't as effective as you'd think.


This is obviously a nonsense. Who say it never heard of positive/negative airflow. I have 2x 560mm and 2x 280mm radiators and if i would run it all on one channel, i would be real mess.


----------



## skupples

that's 100% dependent on your case 

depending on what you build in, it really doesn't matter. Unless, like you highlighted you're managing airflow to prevent dust build up. that's non-issue in my STH10.


----------



## Barefooter

GTXJackBauer said:


> Just a heads up, aquasuite X.5 is out but only if you join as an insider as it's not officially released but it looks good so far.
> 
> Skimmed through it all in confusion lol but what really stuck out to me was the ability to reorganize your tabs in aquasuite. I guess I'm a bit OCD when it comes to stuff like that.


Now this is enough to make it worth it for me to update my Aquasuite software once it is released to everyone!

I never bothered to update to any of the "X" versions of Aquasuite because everything was working fine, and since I have an Aquaero LT set up as a slave unit, it is always a pain to update the slave unit!

I always thought that being able to change the order of the tabs up and down in the column on the left should not be that difficult to do. That is a feature I will certainly use.

Also looking forward to being able to use the _"Profiles"_ so I can set my start up profile to keep my case lighting that is controlled by my Farbwerk set to off. Every time I start my computer I have to open Aquasuite to turn the Farbwerk lighting off if I want to, now I will be able to set it to do that automatically :thumb:


----------



## GTXJackBauer

Barefooter said:


> Now this is enough to make it worth it for me to update my Aquasuite software once it is released to everyone!
> 
> I never bothered to update to any of the "X" versions of Aquasuite because everything was working fine, and since I have an Aquaero LT set up as a slave unit, it is always a pain to update the slave unit!
> 
> I always thought that being able to change the order of the tabs up and down in the column on the left should not be that difficult to do. That is a feature I will certainly use.
> 
> Also looking forward to being able to use the _"Profiles"_ so I can set my start up profile to keep my case lighting that is controlled by my Farbwerk set to off. Every time I start my computer I have to open Aquasuite to turn the Farbwerk lighting off if I want to, now I will be able to set it to do that automatically :thumb:


Awesome. This sounds like a nice update for you. 

Hopefully you'll have time to add this to your amazing guide. :thumb:


----------



## skupples

Barefooter said:


> Now this is enough to make it worth it for me to update my Aquasuite software once it is released to everyone!
> 
> I never bothered to update to any of the "X" versions of Aquasuite because everything was working fine, and since I have an Aquaero LT set up as a slave unit, it is always a pain to update the slave unit!
> 
> I always thought that being able to change the order of the tabs up and down in the column on the left should not be that difficult to do. That is a feature I will certainly use.
> 
> Also looking forward to being able to use the _"Profiles"_ so I can set my start up profile to keep my case lighting that is controlled by my Farbwerk set to off. Every time I start my computer I have to open Aquasuite to turn the Farbwerk lighting off if I want to, now I will be able to set it to do that automatically :thumb:


wait... how're you not forced to update your software and bios like everyone else? do you do all commands from the LCD?

how old is your oldest unit? I had to re-purchase my device license for access to AquaSuite just recently. My units are first run.


----------



## Leonko

skupples said:


> that's 100% dependent on your case
> 
> depending on what you build in, it really doesn't matter. Unless, like you highlighted you're managing airflow to prevent dust build up. that's non-issue in my STH10.


yeah, i would put radiators everywhere possible even in STH10, so it would be problem (for me) there too


----------



## skupples

nope. 

STH is sealed on top and bottom. Only the front radiator would need to be on a separate channel, if you for reason you didn't want them all blowing "out" or "in" 

tops and bottoms just blow thru / into each other depending on which way you mount the radiator, when running form one plug.

though I supposed I forgot about adding a 120.1 to the rear  which could still be all controlled by one header, based on radiator orientation/fan installation. 

can always mount your fans backwards (i'm sure this is COMPLETELY out of the question though, cuz a e s t h e t i c )


----------



## Barefooter

GTXJackBauer said:


> Awesome. This sounds like a nice update for you.
> 
> Hopefully you'll have time to add this to your amazing guide. :thumb:


Yeah I might add to the guide... two more weeks of good weather here and then I'll be done skiing for the year... then I'll have more time :thinking:




skupples said:


> wait... how're you not forced to update your software and bios like everyone else? do you do all commands from the LCD?
> 
> how old is your oldest unit? I had to re-purchase my device license for access to AquaSuite just recently. My units are first run.


You are never forced to update the software. You are forced to update firmware if there are components in you system that require firmware updates once you update the Aquasuite software.

Currently on my _Devastator_ build I'm still running Aquasuite 2018-9, and on my older secondary rig I'm running version 2017-3.2. The only reason to really ever update the software is if there are new software features that you want to use, or because you have a newer component that requires the newer version of the software to function properly.

Since they changed the software to the new naming scheme, there has been nothing that I needed to use so no point in updating it. I looked at the license page on my _Devastator_ build, most of the components are good through 2018, but my flow meter is still good until 2019, so I should be able to update for free.


----------



## skupples

as stated, I was forced to re-license aquasuite (more like this specific device for aquasuite if I remember correctly) after like 5 years of ownership to regain access to changing stuff via software. 

so yeah, you're right... just don't be surprised when you get hit with the bill for 5 more years of software access  

i'd pull up my profile on their site, but i'm kinda in charge of blocking stuff, and don't whitelist myself. pretty sure i'm good thru 2023 now.


----------



## oreonutz

Hey Guys, I just purchased me a MPS Flow 200. I do own an Aquaero 6 XT but I only use it as a Fan Controller in my Server, and have never spent any quality time playing with and learning the software, I know just enough to set my Fan Profile. The MPS Flow 200 Flow Sensor is being installed into my Ryzen 9 3900x Build, so that I can measure my Flow Rate, and this build does not have an Aquaero. Is it possible to plug in the MPS Flow 200 via USB to my Mobo, and just have HWinfo read the Flow Rate and External Temp Sensor, or will I need to download and install the Aquaero Software on this Build as well in order to display the MPS Sensors in HWinfo? It will be here on Tuesday, so won't get to experiment until then, but was hoping you fine people could educate me! Thank You!


----------



## Shawnb99

oreonutz said:


> Hey Guys, I just purchased me a MPS Flow 200. I do own an Aquaero 6 XT but I only use it as a Fan Controller in my Server, and have never spent any quality time playing with and learning the software, I know just enough to set my Fan Profile. The MPS Flow 200 Flow Sensor is being installed into my Ryzen 9 3900x Build, so that I can measure my Flow Rate, and this build does not have an Aquaero. Is it possible to plug in the MPS Flow 200 via USB to my Mobo, and just have HWinfo read the Flow Rate and External Temp Sensor, or will I need to download and install the Aquaero Software on this Build as well in order to display the MPS Sensors in HWinfo? It will be here on Tuesday, so won't get to experiment until then, but was hoping you fine people could educate me! Thank You!


I can confirm the MPS400 flow meter can be read in HWinfo. Though I do have Auqasuite installed but I don't think that should matter


----------



## GTXJackBauer

oreonutz said:


> Hey Guys, I just purchased me a MPS Flow 200. I do own an Aquaero 6 XT but I only use it as a Fan Controller in my Server, and have never spent any quality time playing with and learning the software, I know just enough to set my Fan Profile. The MPS Flow 200 Flow Sensor is being installed into my Ryzen 9 3900x Build, so that I can measure my Flow Rate, and this build does not have an Aquaero. Is it possible to plug in the MPS Flow 200 via USB to my Mobo, and just have HWinfo read the Flow Rate and External Temp Sensor, or will I need to download and install the Aquaero Software on this Build as well in order to display the MPS Sensors in HWinfo? It will be here on Tuesday, so won't get to experiment until then, but was hoping you fine people could educate me! Thank You!


If it has USB, it can be used as a standalone unit with the Aquaero Software. That pretty much goes for all their gear that has USB. Either work with the controller via Aquabus or standalone via USB.


----------



## zeroibis

Does anyone know how to get the current time to display on an overview page? I really would like to add the current time to my desktop along with the other data I usually display.

So far I have tired coding it manually but I do not know how to make it update... lol


Code:


<UserControl
    x:Name="this"
    xmlns="http://schemas.microsoft.com/winfx/2006/xaml/presentation"
    xmlns:x="http://schemas.microsoft.com/winfx/2006/xaml"
    xmlns:mc="http://schemas.openxmlformats.org/markup-compatibility/2006" 
    xmlns:d="http://schemas.microsoft.com/expression/blend/2008" 
    xmlns:sys="clr-namespace:System;assembly=mscorlib"
    mc:Ignorable="d" d:DesignHeight="300" d:DesignWidth="300">
    <Grid>
        <!--default background-->

        <!--user defined text-->
        <!--Content: contains the displayed text-->
 <TextBlock  Name="tbArrivalDateTime"
            Text="{Binding Source={x:Static sys:DateTime.Now},
                   StringFormat='{}{0:HH:mm}'}"
                   VerticalAlignment="Center"
                   Height="Auto" 
                Width="Auto"
                FontFamily="Segoe UI"
                Foreground="#FFF"
                   FontSize="50"
                   Grid.Row="3"
                   Grid.Column="1"
                   Margin="0,0,0,0"
                   HorizontalAlignment="Left"/>
    </Grid>
</UserControl>


----------



## Aenra

Where was this half a year ago damn it! 
Will probably buy four for the next build, no way i'm disassembling now.. again..

And kudos for listening to be honest, you finally ticked all the (right this time) boxes: External power supply, PWM amplification for where it's needed, pricing's good too. Wasn't a fan of any of your previous solutions, given what the competition offered. So definitely great to see this.

Manual doesn't list the knob's specifics, am assuming '1' is lowest and '3' highest? And what revolutions exactly do they designate?









https://shop.aquacomputer.de/product_info.php?products_id=3830


----------



## iamjanco

Looks like they added an adjustable pot (variable resistor) that might equate the splitter to the DivaMod. I'll see if I can't firm that info up (*I posted the question at AC*). 

Might compensate for pullup levels in pwm fans that don't meet the pwm spec (like the BeQuiet SW3s); or as mentioned on their site, to compensate for the extra load on the pwm signal that certain fan combinations might induce (e.g., like driving nine fans using the same pwm signal) . 



> PWM signal amplification: When using a passive splitter, each connected fan puts a strain on the PWM signal of the fan output - depending on fan output and fan type, even a small number of fans might overload the PWM signal, the fans cannot be controlled in this case. SPLITTY9 ACTIVE amplifies the PWM signal to be able to control problematic fans with out-of-spec PWM inputs.


----------



## Aenra

(thanks for the rep Janco)
You know electronics better than me, it being why your post gives me pause, lol
Are you certain that's what the knob's for? Asking as it's mentioned in the same paragraph with fan turn-offs (ie at will), even when they don't support said function :S

/imwithstupid


----------



## iamjanco

Hopefully, we'll find out soon enough, Aenra. I updated my previous post with a link to the question I posted about it over on the AC forum. 

Could be it also provides additional functionality when used with the latest and greatest from AC (like their newest pumps). 

Oh, and yw 

Edit: I just went an reread the Shoggy's OP about the new Splitty 9 and from the sound of it, I understand that one of the new functions of the splitter is to provide an adjustable switching threshold that can be used to halt pwm fans that fall below a certain point (not sure what that point is at this time). That's good to hear as well and I think that's what you were asking about. 

The question I posed has more to do with the PWM signal amplification functionality that is mentioned in Shoggy's post. Either way, we'll hopefully know Monday.


----------



## GTXJackBauer

I posted a question there but was confused by the response I got. The dial confuses me thinking its an override. What happens if that thing moves slightly while moving the case around or some how it does move while in a stationary position or if its suppose to be in a certain spot in order to function properly via PWM signal to MB or AQ header.


----------



## iamjanco

GTXJackBauer said:


> I posted a question there but was confused by the response I got. The dial confuses me thinking its an override. What happens if that thing moves slightly while moving the case around or some how it does move while in a stationary position or if its suppose to be in a certain spot in order to function properly via PWM signal to MB or AQ header.



Hard to say what else is built into that new circuit (and what it's actually doing), but I initially interpreted what they said about their PWM signal amplification being used to correct for non-spec'd fans as being able to adjust the amplitude of the pwm signal to keep it at consistent levels; I then read in their (overly terse) instruction sheet for the new splitty (pdf download: *Splitty9 Active, (56.5 kB)*) that the adjustment is used to vary the speeds at which the fans might turn off (at least, that's how I interpreted that further bit of info).

My guess is that the threshold adjust circuit can be used to kill power to the fans once they reach a certain rpm based on the rpm speed signal sent from the fans, perhaps in combination with the pwm signal signal.

Best to wait and see how they respond to my additional question; but yes, the way they responded to your question with "You can change with the pot. the on/off trigger limit." doesn't really say alot about what the circuit is actually doing.

--

*AC's functional description of their new splitty9 active:*



> *PWM signal amplification:* When using a passive splitter, each connected fan puts a strain on the PWM signal of the fan output - depending on fan output and fan type, even a small number of fans might overload the PWM signal, the fans cannot be controlled in this case. SPLITTY9 ACTIVE amplifies the PWM signal to be able to control problematic fans with out-of-spec PWM inputs.
> 
> *Adjustable switching threshold:* PWM fans can usually not be switched off using the PWM signal - SPLITTY9 ACTIVE adds this useful feature. A rotary knob can be used to adjust the switching threshold. If the PWM signal is below the threshold, SPLITTY9 ACTIVE will cut power to the fans. A LED on the splitter indicates whether the fans are currently powered.



*Other useful resources, both pdf format:*

*4-Wire Pulse Width Modulation (PWM) Controlled Fans*
*Specification, September 2005, Revision 1.3 *

*Noctua PWM specifications*
*white paper*


----------



## skupples

sooo its a divadapter. got it


----------



## iamjanco

skupples said:


> sooo its a divadapter. got it


That's what some of us are hoping


----------



## IT Diva

skupples said:


> sooo its a divadapter. got it





iamjanco said:


> That's what some of us are hoping





I was thinking along the same track and looking for the DivaDapter pics, but alas, that must be nearly 10 years ago . . . .


But a little more looking and flashback time:


----------



## iamjanco

IT Diva said:


> I was thinking along the same track and looking for the DivaDapter pics, but alas, that must be nearly 10 years ago . . . .
> 
> 
> But a little more looking and flashback time:


Yup, that's them. 10 years go by fast when you're busy dodging hurricanes, eh? 

Hope you're doing well


----------



## Aenra

Far as the on-site description goes, it appears simple:

- Amplification is in, on by default, nothing you need/get to do.
- Blue knob is for manual fan shutdown _based on its revolutions_ rather than drawn power, for those fans that do not support this newest and greatest trend. 

Basing that on the fact that amplification is mentioned separately, without mention of the knob. And that PWM shutdown is mentioned in a latter paragraph, wherein the knob -is- mentioned.
Hence my original question to @*Shoggy* or perhaps a user that's already acquired one: What revolutions/percentile units do the knob's settings stand for.

Aqua being Aqua however, the "new" Splitty9 manual is in fact the old one's and the webpage SKU description does not go into details about the one thing it actually should 
(i still maintain it's like that though, ie that hopefully Janco got it wrong. For both the above and additionally the simple fact that they cannot expect end users to know how [and by how much] to amplify pulse signals)


----------



## skupples

ahh, its closer to 5 than 10!


----------



## iamjanco

No response to my question on the AC forum yet; give it time. I'm not sure shoggy monitors this forum anymore.

That said:



Aenra said:


> Far as the on-site description goes, it appears simple:
> 
> - Amplification is in, on by default, *nothing you need/get to do.*


Depends on whether you're using pwm fans that don't meet the pwm spec (like SW3s). The question I posed over at AC has to do with the voltage level of the pwm signal as seen by the SW3 fans when connected to an (e.g.) typical motherboard's pwm signal source. Again, best wait for a response from AC and/or someone who purchases the new splitty to report their findings back (as you suggested).



> - Blue knob is for manual fan shutdown _based on its revolutions_ rather than drawn power, for those fans that do not support this newest and greatest trend.
> 
> Basing that on the fact that amplification is mentioned separately, without mention of the knob. And that PWM shutdown is mentioned in a latter paragraph, wherein the knob -is- mentioned.
> Hence my original question to @*Shoggy* or perhaps a user that's already acquired one: What revolutions/percentile units do the knob's settings stand for.
> 
> Aqua being Aqua however, *the "new" Splitty9 manual is in fact the old one's *and the webpage SKU description does not go into details about the one thing it actually should
> (i still maintain it's like that though, ie that hopefully Janco got it wrong. For both the above and additionally the simple fact that they cannot expect end users to know how [and by how much] to amplify pulse signals)


Not sure we're looking at the same "manual." Make sure the pdf file you're looking at is named "*Splitty9_Active_english.pdf*." It's a one-page document that has a paragraph in it with the heading "*Switching threshold adjustment*." The old instructions didn't have that paragraph in it because the old splitty didn't have a "Switching threshold adjustment."

While I (like so many others) am not perfect, I do strive to be correct with respect to tech info, and I do rtfm. I also do try to correct myself when I am wrong 

ref. *AquaComputer's document repo*, select the document titled: "Splitty9 Active." There are four different versions in AC's documentation repo, two the old version and two for the new active version. One of each is in German, the other English.


----------



## Shawnb99

I just wish they made it with more then 9 ports. This would of been perfect for my vadars, rather then 6 to a channel I could of put both radiators on one channel without worrying I'll overload the Quadro or AQ. I've only had 3 Quadros stop working, but nope still only 9 fans. An even dozen would of been perfect. Now they are still useful but limiting. It would of been nice with more.


----------



## Aenra

iamjanco said:


> While I (like so many others) am not perfect, I do strive to be correct with respect to tech info, and I do rtfm. I also do try to correct myself when I am wrong


If that's you getting defensive, re-consider where the issue lies; hint, it is not with me.
We interpreted something in two different ways, i politely differed (politely since i prefaced it by *clearly* stating that your knowledge exceeds mine). I therefore see no reason for the above response.
It's all good in the Shire; it's only the Internet. Get some air.

While the above should have sufficed.. The only reason i re-posted is to clarify/ensure Shoggy responds in a manner easily understandable by folks like me. It's often the case that questions compound and when ultimately an answer's provided extra clarifications are in order. Has happened before, as well in this very thread (37352 questions on exact same topic, last 3 answered), so call it due diligence.

As to the manual, my mistake 100%, there is indeed a separate one. There are more 'Splitty' entries further down that page, mistakenly presumed i had scrolled through them all. Mea culpa and apologies to everyone. 

It appears the knob is indeed for the PWM turn off, as i originally surmised and as stated in the website. Sincerely hope this all precludes a repeat of the kind quoted above.


----------



## iamjanco

I guess we'll just have to agree to disagree. I'm in a wait and see mode myself.


----------



## l Nuke l

Hey yall setting up a custom water cooled loop for the first time and will be getting an Aquaero 6 XT. Besides the Aquaero what will I need to control a total of 8 fans on a 560mm radiator, 1 D5 pump, and a temperature sensor to monitor coolant temps so I can base the fan curve off of that?


----------



## Kimir

You'll need some kind of cable splitter to hook all them fans up, and yes you have multiple channel of temperature sensor, you can even create virtual sensor based on the physical ones and make a curve of that to your liking.


----------



## skupples

^

You have a total of 4 PWM plugs, so you'll need a splitty like item for your fans, also use one if you move up to two pumps.

there's 12+ temp probes, and the unit comes with a few ambient sensors.


----------



## ruffhi

I just picked up a Splitty Active from modmymods during their BlackFriday sale. I will be putting it in my pedestal to control my 6 (7 if you count the pedestal exhaust) fans. The only problem I see is that I will not have access to the blue dial to adjust the 'turn off' level.

I will be installing this during the weekend of Dec 14th.


----------



## l Nuke l

what would I need to have my loop, aquaero, pump, fans run without being connected to pc? besides having a separate power supply? how would i power it on without a mobo?


----------



## skupples

aquaero, connect, program, save, disconnect.

will still need power, ofc. there are tiny 12v PSUs out there now. Like, super tiny. not "SFF" tiny.


----------



## l Nuke l

skupples said:


> aquaero, connect, program, save, disconnect.
> 
> will still need power, ofc. there are tiny 12v PSUs out there now. Like, super tiny. not "SFF" tiny.


 I have a spare 650w psu that I would use. how would i powere it on tho without the motherboard?


----------



## skupples

add2PSU

this is the only bridging device I can recommend, out the entire lot, as it has an actual controller. (unlike some WC company's harnesses)

I've used gen 1 and 2, for years (until my system got low enough powered to phase out the second PSU.

I had PSU #1 run board, fans, etc. 
PSU #2 ran GPUs.


----------



## war4peace

I have a dual-PSU build, I just use an ATX adapter, but I think the question was around starting an ATX power supply without the motherboard.
*Click me*.


----------



## skupples

I may have read it wrong.

yeah, you can always hotwire (like you do to prime/purge your loops) 

sounded like he wanted two running at the same time, one not connected to the board. if so, best bet is add2psu.

takes about 2 dollars to make the above @ Home Depot, if not.


----------



## Shawnb99

l Nuke l said:


> what would I need to have my loop, aquaero, pump, fans run without being connected to pc? besides having a separate power supply? how would i power it on without a mobo?


Just only plug the devices you want powered into the PSU and use a PSU jumper.

https://www.performance-pcs.com/sys...asonic-24-pin-psu-jumper-ss-bridge-24pin.html.


----------



## war4peace

skupples said:


> sounded like he wanted two running at the same time, one not connected to the board. if so, best bet is add2psu.


I was talking 



Shawnb99 said:


> Just only plug the devices you want powered into the PSU and use a PSU jumper.
> 
> https://www.performance-pcs.com/sys...asonic-24-pin-psu-jumper-ss-bridge-24pin.html.


I was talking about this:

https://www.thermaltake.com/dual-psu-24pin-adapter-cable.html

Does what add2psu does, except it doesn't use a molex.


----------



## skupples

yep, but did they ever build any safety into it?


----------



## war4peace

Not sure what you mean. That cable links two PSUs together, it only splits the two command wires enabling both PSUs to start at the same time when the power button is pressed, nothing else. If one PSU goes boom, the other is not affected. For power issues I have the Aquaero relay.


----------



## skupples

yeah idr anymore. there was a lot of talk when add2psu started releasing their stuff that it was the safer of the two products, between it Vs. a harness, due to the relay. I really like their newest one with the timer. It makes me wanna go back to using 2x PSUs just so my pumps and fans will keep spinning thru a crash/for a set amount of time after shutdown.


----------



## war4peace

Anyway both products are good for most cases. Add2PSU is great when you want to hide cabling because the adapter cable is ugly as sin. On the other hand, the adapter cable is 100% foolproof and uses no extra connectors. In the end, it's a matter of preference.

The way I use the PSUs is one powering everything except for the GPUs and the other only powering the GPUs (dual 8-pin each). That way, if either PSU dies, the components are not affected.


----------



## skupples

^^ same way I used to do it. 

everything but PCI-E devices on the small PSU, and GPU section on the big boy. (3x Gk110 @ 1.4 sucks a lot of power)


----------



## Shawnb99

So upgraded to Aquasuite X.9 and I lost all my custom fan names. Also had to upgrade the firmware on my Quadro's for some reason yet never asked when I was on X.4


----------



## GAN77

del


----------



## l Nuke l

guys i am having a hard time calibrating the calitemp dont know if its faulty or this is just the way it is. so right now i have a fluke thermometer reading ambient temp and i have a regular aquaero temp sensor and calitemp hooked up also. the 3 are taped together so i can better calibrate them to the fluke. the regular temp sensor that came with the aquaero wasnt to hard to calibrate. had to set it to -70ticks and now its in sync with the fluke. problem is no matter how i set the calitemp it will never sync correctly. its fine when the temp isnt fluctuating. but as soon as the temp in my room dips 2 degrees or goes up by 2 degrees it lags behind the fluke and the other temp sensor. example. if the temp is 20c i can set the cali temp at 20c and it will stay there and read the same as the other two but as soon as temp in room raises 2 degrees the calitemp will still read 20c or maybe 20.5 while the other two will read the correct temp of 22c. and the same if temp drops. i dont have it connected in my loop yet. just using it to read ambient air temps .any thought or ideas? dont want to connect it to my loop if its not gonna read accurately. might just resort to running the loop with a fluke temperature probe in my reservoir for accurate readings. or maybe i need to order a new calitemp.


----------



## GTXJackBauer

I think it could be within the margin of error so it functions as it should, just not by the Fluke standards if you will.


----------



## war4peace

2 degrees Celsius difference is by no means "error margin".


----------



## skupples

Im sure Shawn will have some input. Dude probably dreams in Cali temp


----------



## SuprPwrUsr

So are there any good methods to mount this internally inside the case? The closest I've seen is the add-on for the murderbox internal vaquero mount 

https://www.titanrig.com/catalog/pr...ternal-ac-aquaero-6-pro-mount-0185xf010401on/


----------



## war4peace

Yes, you need Fusion 360 and a 3D printer. And measure the dimensions of the AQ. Sky's the limit.


----------



## GAN77

l Nuke l said:


> guys i am having a hard time calibrating the calitemp dont know if its faulty or this is just the way it is. so right now i have a fluke thermometer reading ambient temp and i have a regular aquaero temp sensor and calitemp hooked up also. the 3 are taped together so i can better calibrate them to the fluke. the regular temp sensor that came with the aquaero wasnt to hard to calibrate. had to set it to -70ticks and now its in sync with the fluke. problem is no matter how i set the calitemp it will never sync correctly. its fine when the temp isnt fluctuating. but as soon as the temp in my room dips 2 degrees or goes up by 2 degrees it lags behind the fluke and the other temp sensor. example. if the temp is 20c i can set the cali temp at 20c and it will stay there and read the same as the other two but as soon as temp in room raises 2 degrees the calitemp will still read 20c or maybe 20.5 while the other two will read the correct temp of 22c. and the same if temp drops. i dont have it connected in my loop yet. just using it to read ambient air temps .any thought or ideas? dont want to connect it to my loop if its not gonna read accurately. might just resort to running the loop with a fluke temperature probe in my reservoir for accurate readings. or maybe i need to order a new calitemp.


A thermal spacer is located between the sensor and the fitting. Perhaps you rotated the outer ring with the connector and the sensor shifted relative to the thermal pad.


----------



## Eulerian

I could use some advice.

Building in a Lian Li O11 Dynamic XL. Three HWLabs 360GTS rads, putting nine fans on them, plus one in the back of the case, and also putting Halos on them all. I also have a couple RGB/LED strips here and there (for the GPU, the pump, maybe a couple for the inner lining of the case, etc).

What is a reasonable way to control everything? I already own a Splitty4 and a Quadro, though I am unsure if they are as useful here - is it worthwhile to pick up an Aquaero 6 LT? Is it worth getting the heatsink or waterblock? 

I want individual control of each Halo (so I could potentially make each one a different color), but for fans do most people hook them all up somehow so they behave as one?

Just not sure what hardware to get, if I need any more cords or adapters, or how to arrange this.


----------



## war4peace

Sorry but I need more information. Could you please link up the "Halo" fans? I searched myself and found this URL but the fan specs tab is scarce. I don't know if you could daisy chain them, but a Splitty4 might help.
Generally speaking, if you can daisy-chain your fans, you basically have one long strip which contains all fan strips (e.g. Lian Li fans). The QUADRO would help but if you have lots of different strips and whatnot I strongly recommend getting a Farbwerk 360, or maybe even two.


----------



## GAN77

war4peace said:


> Sorry but I need more information. Could you please link up the "Halo" fans? I searched myself and found this URL but the fan specs tab is scarce. I don't know if you could daisy chain them, but a Splitty4 might help.
> Generally speaking, if you can daisy-chain your fans, you basically have one long strip which contains all fan strips (e.g. Lian Li fans). The QUADRO would help but if you have lots of different strips and whatnot I strongly recommend getting a Farbwerk 360, or maybe even two.


This is enermax UCTBRGBA12P-BP3
https://www.enermaxeu.com/ru/products/fans/rgb-fans/tbrgbad/


----------



## war4peace

For the Enermax, three fans can be connected using a splitter cable to one dRGB header, in a similar fashion to the PWM controlled multi-fans. You have a "master" fan which you control through the software, and the other fans mimic its behavior.


----------



## GAN77

war4peace said:


> For the Enermax, three fans can be connected using a splitter cable to one dRGB header, in a similar fashion to the PWM controlled multi-fans. You have a "master" fan which you control through the software, and the other fans mimic its behavior.


You can connect three fans in series using RGBpx cables and adapters.


----------



## war4peace

3Of course you can... provided the fan has an Input *and* an Output pinout. If it doesn't, you can't.


----------



## Eulerian

*Eulerian*



war4peace said:


> Sorry but I need more information. Could you please link up the "Halo" fans? I searched myself and found this URL but the fan specs tab is scarce. I don't know if you could daisy chain them, but a Splitty4 might help.
> Generally speaking, if you can daisy-chain your fans, you basically have one long strip which contains all fan strips (e.g. Lian Li fans). The QUADRO would help but if you have lots of different strips and whatnot I strongly recommend getting a Farbwerk 360, or maybe even two.


Sorry, I was not clear. 

My fans are all Noctua 120mm a12x25's PWMs (10 of them), and the Halos are Phantek Halo Luxes (Digital versions), which are RGB fan cover devices: http://phanteks.com/HalosLuxDigital.html


----------



## war4peace

OK, there we go. The frames can be daisy-chained, which is a great thing. With 30 LEDs per frame, you can link three fan frames per Farbwerk 360 output (it supports a maximum of 90 LEDs per strip), this means you need a Farbwerk 360 dedicated to the fans. (3x90 LEDs + 1x 30 LEDs). In theory you could daisy-chain other devices from the 4th output but you will have to play around in the software to make that happen.

I suggest 1x Farbwerk 360 for the fans and one for the rest of the RGB stuff (case illumination, GPU, CPU).


----------



## Eulerian

war4peace said:


> OK, there we go. The frames can be daisy-chained, which is a great thing. With 30 LEDs per frame, you can link three fan frames per Farbwerk 360 output (it supports a maximum of 90 LEDs per strip), this means you need a Farbwerk 360 dedicated to the fans. (3x90 LEDs + 1x 30 LEDs). In theory you could daisy-chain other devices from the 4th output but you will have to play around in the software to make that happen.
> 
> I suggest 1x Farbwerk 360 for the fans and one for the rest of the RGB stuff (case illumination, GPU, CPU).


Thanks. 

Would an Aquaero LT be of use at all here? Or the Quadro I already own? My concern is also cable management since I would need the cables from all these fans to be able to reach everything (fan headers, RGB cables, etc).

I'm new to this so struggling to visualize where I'd be placing things / how to hook it all up. Three fans would be on a top radiator, three on the side radiator, three on a bottom radiator, and one fan in the upper-rear of the case.


----------



## war4peace

I think you can do away with a Quadro controlling all your fans. It would definitely handle 10 fans. You would need two Farbwerk 360s, though.
The great advantage of Aquacomputer controllers is they are rather small, so you can hide them in different places inside your case, for example between the motherboard support tray and case cover. As for cable management, I am afraid I have not closely investigated the Lian Li O11 Dynamic XL. Amazingly, I don't really like it, so I can't give you much advice here.


----------



## Eulerian

To my understanding though a Quadro only handles four fans each?


----------



## GAN77

Guys, someone had problems with a broken control PWM signal on the pump?
I connected the Aqua Computer D5 pump motor with PWM art.41105 to aquaaero 6LT.
I see the speed of the pump, but I can not control the PWM signal. 
I opened the back cover, all the wires in place.
Pump speed constant at maximum. Can you give me advice, what can I check?

Sorry for my English.


----------



## iamjanco

Eulerian said:


> To my understanding though a Quadro only handles four fans each?


2 amps/25 watts max per channel. As many fans as you want per channel as long as you don't exceed those limits (keeping fan motor startup current in mind)..


----------



## Eulerian

iamjanco said:


> 2 amps/25 watts max per channel. As many fans as you want per channel as long as you don't exceed those limits (keeping fan motor startup current in mind)..


According to https://noctua.at/en/nf-a12x25-pwm
1.68W max input power, max input current 0.14A

Even if I hooked up all ten to one channel that's 16.8W and 1.4A, both of which are within the per-channel limits, so that should be fine no? Though for the sake of cable management I imagine I'd want to hook things up in multiple chains.

How do I hook up multiple Noctuas together per channel? I don't believe I can daisy-chain them, each one has a fairly short PWM cord thing.


----------



## GTXJackBauer

Grab a SPLITTY9 to control the fans and 2 Farbwerk 360s for those addressable aRGB HALOs as stated. I think that should work for you.


----------



## iamjanco

If I recall correctly, the Quadro is supposed to provide compensation for heavier loads on the pwm pullup on a per channel basis. That said, AC claims their new *SPLITTY9 ACTIVE module* does have that pwm pullup compensation built into it.

Anyway, if you're not already familiar with how pwm fans work, here's a high level view: a pwm fan has a four pin connector, one of which is used to supply the fan a pwm signal and another pin which is used to determine the fans rpm. The other two pins are +12VDC and gnd. The easiest way to daisy chain a large number of fans is to get yourself a splitter (like the *splitty9*) for each channel and hook up each channel's fans that way to the Quadro. The Quadro will provide the control signal and power for all the fans connected to the splitter, using the rpm signal from only one fan (the splitty9 is labeled for that) as the basis to change speed based on the curves you set up in the software.

As for fan cables that might be too short, you either replace the shorter wires with longer cables (requires work, knowhow, and a few special tools), or get yourself some pwm fan cable extensions where needed. The "fairly short PWM cord thing" you referred might be the Low-Noise Adaptor Noctua supplies with their fans. It has nothing to do with pwm control itself; rather, it's a limiter that prevents fans from exceeding a certain speed whether they're pwm fans or the 3-pin dc voltage controlled fans.


----------



## Eulerian

Two Farbwek 360's would only permit up to 8 individually-controlled halos though correct?


----------



## Eulerian

iamjanco said:


> As for fan cables that might be too short, you either replace the shorter wires with longer cables (requires work, knowhow, and a few special tools), or get yourself some pwm fan cable extensions where needed. The "fairly short PWM cord thing" you referred might be the Low-Noise Adaptor Noctua supplies with their fans. It has nothing to do with pwm control itself; rather, it's a limiter that prevents fans from exceeding a certain speed whether they're pwm fans or the 3-pin dc voltage controlled fans.


To clarify, this is how long my fan's cord is -- it seems too short if I am to connect all nine fans into one splitty9:


----------



## iamjanco

You'll need to either replace the cable or purchase extension cables for the existing ones. A few examples of those extension cables can be found *here*.


----------



## Eulerian

Just for fun, is it easy enough to make your own?

Which components / wire / cord size / sleeving etc would be appropriate?


----------



## skupples

yes, it's relatively easy to make your own, sometimes I'm lazy & just splice extensions in, instead of having to deal with pinning n crimping n stuff. 

to make them yourself, you're gonna have to start with some effort.

A.) match gauge to existing gauge 
B.) order bag of 3 pin heads 
C.) order bag of female pins
D.) order a QUALITY crimper/stripper/cutter
E.) order paracord, shrink wrap, heat gun (someone probably sells a kit for this by now) 
F.)practice and emulate youtube till it looks good
G.) implement


----------



## Shawnb99

Eulerian said:


> To clarify, this is how long my fan's cord is -- it seems too short if I am to connect all nine fans into one splitty9:




Those fans come with extensions use those or buy more. Buy a Y splitter if you want to daisy chain multiple splitty9’s


----------



## Eulerian

Shawnb99 said:


> Those fans come with extensions use those or buy more. Buy a Y splitter if you want to daisy chain multiple splitty9’s


...

.....

.......


Oh man, serves me right for not checking my own damn box. Thank you for pointing this out, haha.










That said, I still think it would be fun to try making some.


----------



## war4peace

I totally don't recommend you building such cables. Take things one step at a time, first master the basis, then move on. The last thing you want is setting your PC on fire from cross-wiring.


----------



## Eulerian

I mean I would definitely be checking pinouts and using a multimeter to check continuity if I were to


----------



## Eulerian

war4peace said:


> OK, there we go. The frames can be daisy-chained, which is a great thing. With 30 LEDs per frame, you can link three fan frames per Farbwerk 360 output (it supports a maximum of 90 LEDs per strip), this means you need a Farbwerk 360 dedicated to the fans. (3x90 LEDs + 1x 30 LEDs). In theory you could daisy-chain other devices from the 4th output but you will have to play around in the software to make that happen.
> 
> I suggest 1x Farbwerk 360 for the fans and one for the rest of the RGB stuff (case illumination, GPU, CPU).


Also just remembered, the Farbwerk channels are all rgbpx technically


----------



## m9viper

Hello guys,
I've just installed Aquaero 6LT and aquasuite. I dont get why aquasuite is blocking my windows taskbar from popping in, just like aquasuite is fullscreen 3d program. I need to ctrl-esc or alt-tab to pop taskbar.
Installed latest aquasuite (04.12.19 release date) and rebooted many times.
Is it possible to fix it?


----------



## skupples

is it stuck in demo mode or something? I'd have to be at home to be more accurate -.- 

I always have mine as a minimized window.


----------



## m9viper

skupples said:


> is it stuck in demo mode or something? I'd have to be at home to be more accurate -.-
> 
> I always have mine as a minimized window.


How to check is it in demo mode? There is no "DEMO" label or smth.
The trouble is, to be more specific, that when Aquasuite window is maximized, moving mouse to the bottom does not pop my windows taskbar.
It pops if aquasiute window is not maximized, but if it is, I need to ctrl-esc or alt-tab just like Aquasuite is a fullscreen game or application.


----------



## l Nuke l

can anyone help me figure out how to get aquaero to run my fans at a fixed 800rpm. fans are noctua 3000rpm industrial fans. the lowest i can set the preset value to is 45% which is 5.3volts anything less and the fans wont spin. problem is this value has the fans spinning at 1300rpm and i cant seem to get it to go any lower. Am i missing something?


----------



## skupples

there's a toggle for power delivery mode in the advanced tab

pwm, powered, voltage.

oh, and turns out I forgot to re-install the suite on my newest windows install so i suppose I should do that since I finally had to renew my license -.-


----------



## l Nuke l

skupples said:


> there's a toggle for power delivery mode in the advanced tab
> 
> pwm, powered, voltage.
> 
> oh, and turns out I forgot to re-install the suite on my newest windows install so i suppose I should do that since I finally had to renew my license -.-


tried all three no matter what i do the lowest i can get it to is 1300 rpms. anything below that and the fans wont run. i set the max rpm to 800, 900, 1000, 1200 nothing works. if i set it to anything below 1300 fans just cycle on and off. its weird. maybe i am missing something.


----------



## looniam

l Nuke l said:


> tried all three no matter what i do the lowest i can get it to is 1300 rpms. anything below that and the fans wont run. i set the max rpm to 800, 900, 1000, 1200 nothing works. if i set it to anything below 1300 fans just cycle on and off. its weird. maybe i am missing something.


did you check the sensor config?

just a shot. i've made that boo boo.


----------



## l Nuke l

looniam said:


> did you check the sensor config?
> 
> just a shot. i've made that boo boo.


what sensor config? I am not using any sensors. Just looking for a way to run my fans at 800rpms or 3.0 volts. seems the minimum allowed is 1300rpm or 5.3 volts.


----------



## iamjanco

l Nuke l said:


> what sensor config? I am not using any sensors. Just looking for a way to run my fans at 800rpms or 3.0 volts. seems the minimum allowed is 1300rpm or 5.3 volts.


Are they PWM fans?


----------



## l Nuke l

iamjanco said:


> Are they PWM fans?


yes these are the ones https://noctua.at/en/nf-f12-industrialppc-3000-pwm/specification


----------



## GTXJackBauer

l Nuke l said:


> yes these are the ones https://noctua.at/en/nf-f12-industrialppc-3000-pwm/specification


Under the Fans tab, Advanced Settings, are they set to PWM control?


----------



## iamjanco

GTXJackBauer said:


> Under the Fans tab, Advanced Settings, are they set to PWM control?


*That's what I was just thinking*:



> ...look at that sweet, sweet RPM response curve. The PWM duty cycle is VERY linear from ~95% to ~30% or so too which is great to see, and is very handy when using a PWM controller. Now remember that the advertised specs list an RPM range from 750 (+/- 20%) to 3000 (+/- 10%). With this sample, we see the fan going from 2838 RPM at 100% to 235 at 25%. My mind is officially blown now, and this fan is an excellent example of why PWM is a better control method than voltage control. While I would have liked to see the max RPM closer to 3000, it is still within the +/- 10% standard deviation I allow so I won’t fault the fan for it.


----------



## looniam

l Nuke l said:


> what sensor config? I am not using any sensors. Just looking for a way to run my fans at 800rpms or 3.0 volts. seems the minimum allowed is 1300rpm or 5.3 volts.


like this stuff:
















you need a sensor for data input to the controller. i wasn't having a min rpm issue, but silly me thought i blew a fan header somehow. i looked at the specs of those 3K fans and the min is 750 +/- 20% so worse case is (750+[750*.20]) 900rpm, much lower than 1.1K.


E;typos (2K/3K)


----------



## l Nuke l

GTXJackBauer said:


> Under the Fans tab, Advanced Settings, are they set to PWM control?


when i set it to pmw mode they dont spin unless i set the controller to 100%


----------



## skupples

i rarely use that controller bar.

I have my PWM pumps set with min/max both @ 45% with controller pegged @ 100%. which is like 80% of the pwm duty cycle for this specific unit 
pwm implementation is varied/wide.

pretty sure controller controls the range you set via min max.

thanks for bringing this up, i've been meaning to turn my pump down. zero need for nearly full tilt with only one block in the loop. 450LPH = pump suicide.


----------



## GTXJackBauer

skupples said:


> pretty sure controller controls the range you set via min max.


+1


----------



## valvehead

l Nuke l said:


> when i set it to pmw mode they dont spin unless i set the controller to 100%



When you say that they won't run at low speed, do you mean that they won't _start_ with the controller set low or that they _stop_ spinning when you turn down the controller from a higher setting?

I ask this because I see that you don't have the start boost enabled. Many fans won't start (even PWM models) if the the voltage or PWM output is too low. Using a start boost forces the fans to spin up to a higher speed on startup before dropping to the value set by the controller. Around 50% to 60% or more is often needed depending on the fan.

Also, don't set the minimum power to zero. Set this to the minimum speed that you want the fans to spin. Start by setting it high, and with the controller set to minimum decrease the fan setting's minimum until you reach your desired speed. The "Hold minimum power" setting will also keep the fans spinning even when the controller is turned down, otherwise the fans will stop as soon as the controller hits 0. Click on the "i" button on the right next to the fan power settings to see a simulation of how the fan output changes with controller input.


----------



## l Nuke l

valvehead said:


> When you say that they won't run at low speed, do you mean that they won't _start_ with the controller set low or that they _stop_ spinning when you turn down the controller from a higher setting?
> 
> I ask this because I see that you don't have the start boost enabled. Many fans won't start (even PWM models) if the the voltage or PWM output is too low. Using a start boost forces the fans to spin up to a higher speed on startup before dropping to the value set by the controller. Around 50% to 60% or more is often needed depending on the fan.
> 
> Also, don't set the minimum power to zero. Set this to the minimum speed that you want the fans to spin. Start by setting it high, and with the controller set to minimum decrease the fan setting's minimum until you reach your desired speed. The "Hold minimum power" setting will also keep the fans spinning even when the controller is turned down, otherwise the fans will stop as soon as the controller hits 0. Click on the "i" button on the right next to the fan power settings to see a simulation of how the fan output changes with controller input.


so unplugged fans from the aquaero and plugged them into the quadro and have no issues with running them at a fixed low rpm. but with the aquaero i just cant manage it. and start boost is off on the quadro so my fans dont need it. is my aquaero faulty?


----------



## skupples

faulty? no. More likely it has to do with the original PWM implementation on the aquaero, compared to the range on the fans. IT Diva has gone into this quite a bit throughout the thread, and I believe subsequent AC devices have widened the range of supported PWM (IE Quadros n such)

as to start boost being off - its not something the system detects & applies, its something you manually configure to help tune the varied implementations of PWM.


----------



## l Nuke l

skupples said:


> faulty? no. More likely it has to do with the original PWM implementation on the aquaero, compared to the range on the fans. IT Diva has gone into this quite a bit throughout the thread, and I believe subsequent AC devices have widened the range of supported PWM (IE Quadros n such)


 so I guess quadro is the way to go for me?


----------



## skupples

l Nuke l said:


> so I guess quadro is the way to go for me?


I suppose so. 

personally, I like Qaudro because it allows for better routing & wiring. it's a bit of a PITA to centrally install the aquaero pcb/screen. I just never needed one, as I'm running GTAP15s w. voltage control.


----------



## l Nuke l

skupples said:


> I suppose so.
> 
> personally, I like Qaudro because it allows for better routing & wiring. it's a bit of a PITA to centrally install the aquaero pcb/screen. I just never needed one, as I'm running GTAP15s w. voltage control.


 only thing that sucks is i was hoping to control the fans outside of OS enviroment. And as far as i know thats not possible with the quadro only the aquaero.


----------



## skupples

I wouldn't throw in the towel yet - 

So you're saying when you set a min of say 50% and a max of 100%, the controller slider doesn't affect speed, and this behavior shows itself on all three control settings? powered, pwm, and voltage?


----------



## l Nuke l

skupples said:


> I wouldn't throw in the towel yet -
> 
> So you're saying when you set a min of say 50% and a max of 100%, the controller slider doesn't affect speed, and this behavior shows itself on all three control settings? powered, pwm, and voltage?


 controller slider needs to be set to a min of 99% for them to run and they run at max speed.


----------



## skupples

damn shame, sounds like we're where I originally stated.

PWM implementations not syncing up.


so the quadro can't be setup as a device you control from the AQ screen?


----------



## l Nuke l

skupples said:


> damn shame, sounds like we're where I originally stated.
> 
> PWM implementations not syncing up.
> 
> 
> so the quadro can't be setup as a device you control from the AQ screen?


yeah dude sucks. My plan was to have my pump and radiator fans run independently on their own power supply separate from my pc and be able to control fans speeds outside of an OS environment and without having to connect anything to the motherboard. Can this still be accomplished? can i connect the quadro to the aquaero and control the quadro slider via the aquaero lcd?


----------



## skupples

I'd have to read up, I've never used one. 

the one thing I'm still foggy on is this - you have zero control, or limited control? You can control 1250-3k, but you'd like the full range of 800-3k?

hopefully someone less rusty will chime in. I've always kept it pretty simple. aquaero, high flow sensor, & some probes.

there was a new part linked not too far back that's equal to a divadapter which widened the devices PWM control. I'd scroll back to IT Diva's last post, the info is around there somewhere.


----------



## l Nuke l

skupples said:


> I'd have to read up, I've never used one.
> 
> the one thing I'm still foggy on is this - you have zero control, or limited control? You can control 1250-3k, but you'd like the full range of 800-3k?
> 
> hopefully someone less rusty will chime in. I've always kept it pretty simple. aquaero, high flow sensor, & some probes.
> 
> there was a new part linked not too far back that's equal to a divadapter which widened the devices PWM control. I'd scroll back to IT Diva's last post, the info is around there somewhere.


Exactly! I have full control between 1250 and max rpms but i would like to go lower than the 1250 which the aquaero just wont do. but with the quadro i can go as low as 300 rpms. I think what i have to do is purchase this cable and connect the quadro to the aquaero and that should allow me to conrol the quadro via the aquaeros lcd screen https://modmymods.com/aquacomputer-aquabus-cable-4-pin-for-vision-quadro-d5-next-70cm-53214.html


----------



## skupples

good luck! seems reasonable that you can control the quadro from the aquaero. I assume it'll connect to the aquabus jacks in the bottom right corner.


----------



## l Nuke l

skupples said:


> good luck! seems reasonable that you can control the quadro from the aquaero. I assume it'll connect to the aquabus jacks in the bottom right corner.


yup thanks for the help bro ill post back when the parts come in.


----------



## Shawnb99

If you don’t touch the power settings and leave it at 100% do you still run into issues lowering the RPM's of the fan or can you go as low as with the Quadro?
With the Quadro you lose voltage control and are only controlling the PWM signal.
I suspect maybe those fans don’t like running with voltage that low hence why you have issues, yet run fine via PWM control since the voltage isn’t being affected.


----------



## skupples

Shawnb99 said:


> If you don’t touch the power settings and leave it at 100% do you still run into issues lowering the RPM's of the fan or can you go as low as with the Quadro?
> With the Quadro you lose voltage control and are only controlling the PWM signal.
> I suspect maybe those fans don’t like running with voltage that low hence why you have issues, yet run fine via PWM control since the voltage isn’t being affected.


quadro was giving him full range, head unit was givine 1250-max.

he's under the impression he can connect the quadro to the head unit via aqb1/2 to control the quadro from the unit, without the range limitation.


----------



## Shawnb99

skupples said:


> quadro was giving him full range, head unit was givine 1250-max.
> 
> 
> 
> he's under the impression he can connect the quadro to the head unit via aqb1/2 to control the quadro from the unit, without the range limitation.




On the Aquero he was controlling the RPM's via the voltage and couldn’t go below 5.3 volts which worked out to 1300 rpms. Maybe the Notcua's have a voltage limit and won’t spin below that voltage, since the Quadro doesn’t control the voltage just the rpms it allowed him to go lower than 1300.

If he leaves the power control at 100 and just adjusted the rpms he should be able to go as low with the Quadro. 

My system is in pieces so I’m going off memory of how it works


----------



## l Nuke l

Shawnb99 said:


> If you don’t touch the power settings and leave it at 100% do you still run into issues lowering the RPM's of the fan or can you go as low as with the Quadro?
> With the Quadro you lose voltage control and are only controlling the PWM signal.
> I suspect maybe those fans don’t like running with voltage that low hence why you have issues, yet run fine via PWM control since the voltage isn’t being affected.


 Tried that doesnt work. tried controlling it via power, speed and pwm all the same results on the aquaero only thing that works is the quadro.


----------



## skupples

^ so as long as quadro maintains function while connected to aquaero all is right with the world.


----------



## m9viper

It is known some fans and pumps have a bit different PWM implementations, so there may be differences in actual ranges of PWM control via different PWM sources.
For example i have EK Vardars Evo as radiator fans and if motherboard's control range is 25-100% (450-2000) as described in Vardars specs, Aquaero runs them at 33-100% (but same rpm range 450-2000). Where they start at 25% via motherboard control, aquaero needs to feed them with 33% to start at same rpm.


----------



## GAN77

l Nuke l said:


> controller slider needs to be set to a min of 99% for them to run and they run at max speed.


Are fans and 6LT connected to different power sources?


----------



## l Nuke l

GAN77 said:


> Are fans and 6LT connected to different power sources?


Nope


----------



## GAN77

l Nuke l said:


> Nope


I wrote above about my PWM pump problem. The pump and 6LT was connected to different power sources, so the control PWM did not work.


----------



## skupples

nvm misread

i could never get sata external power to work, molex works fine though. IE: sata powered devices would always peg.


----------



## Tiggerdyret

Hi guys and gals, first time poster. 

I own an Aquero 5 LT and have a license of the 2016 update. I'm wondering if it is possible to have multiple sensors for the same fans, so that the curve that suggests most power is always winning. The purpose is for the case fans to ramp up whenever either of the GPU or CPU needs it. Instead of having to choose either or. 

I also want to set I curve for software sensors for these two, while still having the Aquero hardware sensors kick in, if I forgot to open any of the needed software, while playing a game or after a system wipe.

So in short I don't want my fan curve relying on a single sensor...

Thanks


----------



## InfoSeeker

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Plus when I logged on today I got a message "Get 10% off all products today with coupon code LA10, enjoy!"


----------



## war4peace

Tiggerdyret said:


> Hi guys and gals, first time poster.
> 
> I own an Aquero 5 LT and have a license of the 2016 update. I'm wondering if it is possible to have multiple sensors for the same fans, so that the curve that suggests most power is always winning. The purpose is for the case fans to ramp up whenever either of the GPU or CPU needs it. Instead of having to choose either or.
> 
> I also want to set I curve for software sensors for these two, while still having the Aquero hardware sensors kick in, if I forgot to open any of the needed software, while playing a game or after a system wipe.
> 
> So in short I don't want my fan curve relying on a single sensor...
> 
> Thanks


You still choose either/or, but what you need to do is create a virtual sensor which gives you the highest temperature between two data sources. Then, you set your fan curve or fan limites pased on that virtual sensor.
I don't know whether Aquasuite 2016 can do that, but AFAIK it does.


----------



## Kalm_Traveler

hi guys - total noob here so I apologize in advance...

that being said, I am debating switching my display to an Aquaero because I really just want something that can show me 2 separate loop temperatures at the same time.

Currently I have 2 separate loops in the main rig, one for the graphics cards and one for the CPU - each consisting of an EKWB D5 PWM pump, Bitspower temp sensor, and 4 PWM fans on a radiator. These are being controlled by the motherboard and that part all is working just fine, but I have an Asus Rampage VI Extreme motherboard and am using an Asus display that I believe came bundled with the Rampage V but still works with mine (uses the "ROG_EXT" header). In screenshots it appeared that this thing could display 2 temps but I haven't been able to get it to display any loop temp at all, only CPU. 

Given that, in my Googling it appears that the Aquaero devices are the only thing on the market that will do what I want - display 2 temp sensor inputs at once.

With my current parts setup in mind, which model of Aquaero should I look at? Just this month I upgraded graphics card water blocks to Aquacomputer blocks and had to pick up a little square fan/rgb controller PCB to set up the RGB lighting - would this be replaced by the Aquaero or would I run both of them?

Again my apologies for noobness but I appreciate your help in advance!


----------



## skupples

there are two models.

one with screen, one without.

5 is incredibly antiquated, so ignore that.

6XT = screen
6LT = no screen

as to your split loop, I assume the splitting was for aesthetics? You'd likely have better temps with everything combined due to the limited radiator coverage. Split loops are an aesthetics game 99% of the time, unless you have obscene radiator overkill to negate the difference.


----------



## Kalm_Traveler

skupples said:


> there are two models.
> 
> one with screen, one without.
> 
> 5 is incredibly antiquated, so ignore that.
> 
> 6XT = screen
> 6LT = no screen
> 
> as to your split loop, I assume the splitting was for aesthetics? You'd likely have better temps with everything combined due to the limited radiator coverage. Split loops are an aesthetics game 99% of the time, unless you have obscene radiator overkill to negate the difference.


each loop has its own EKWB Coolstream CE 560mm radiator with 4x Noctua NF-A14 iPPC 2000rpm PWM fans in push config (this is in a Thermaltake Tower 900 case, fans are on the outside pushing towards the center of the rear chamber. 3 more fans exhausting that heated air (2 on the rear panel, 1 on the top).

Yes splitting was primarily for aesthetics since I'm pretty sure even at full tilt on the CPU and both graphics cards a single 560mm radiator would be adequate for normal ambient use.

Thank you btw - so if I go with the Aquaero I'll want the 6XT it sounds like? Will my existing pumps, fans and temp sensors work with it or would i need to swap any/all ?


----------



## skupples

everything should work just fine + tons of other possibilities. I'd recommend picking up their "high flow" sensor while you're at it. 

you have 4 PWM headers to control fans & pumps from that aren't dedicated aquabus devices. 

navigate to the OP, you should find a diagram & example of its prowess.


----------



## Kalm_Traveler

skupples said:


> everything should work just fine + tons of other possibilities. I'd recommend picking up their "high flow" sensor while you're at it.
> 
> you have 4 PWM headers to control fans & pumps from that aren't dedicated aquabus devices.
> 
> navigate to the OP, you should find a diagram & example of its prowess.


Thank you. So I'm looking at the 6 XT. Just need to make sure that it will completely support my existing loop components.


----------



## Shawnb99

Kalm_Traveler said:


> Thank you. So I'm looking at the 6 XT. Just need to make sure that it will completely support my existing loop components.




Should have no troubles using your components with the AQ. I assume the temp sensor is a normal w pin one


----------



## Kalm_Traveler

Shawnb99 said:


> Should have no troubles using your components with the AQ. I assume the temp sensor is a normal w pin one


Yes, both temp sensors are typical 2 pin https://www.amazon.com/Bitspower-Temperature-Sensor-Fitting-Sparkle/dp/B003U3VTT0

Thank you again for your help! I'm excited to finally have this rig 100% complete and dialed in! 

one last Q: do I want the 6 XT or 6 Pro? it looks like the only functional difference is that the pro has physical buttons and the XT is a touch screen?


----------



## Shawnb99

XT also comes with a little small remote. Otherwise no real difference between the two


----------



## GTXJackBauer

Kalm_Traveler said:


> hi guys - total noob here so I apologize in advance...
> 
> that being said, I am debating switching my display to an Aquaero because I really just want something that can show me 2 separate loop temperatures at the same time.
> 
> Currently I have 2 separate loops in the main rig, one for the graphics cards and one for the CPU - each consisting of an EKWB D5 PWM pump, Bitspower temp sensor, and 4 PWM fans on a radiator. These are being controlled by the motherboard and that part all is working just fine, but I have an Asus Rampage VI Extreme motherboard and am using an Asus display that I believe came bundled with the Rampage V but still works with mine (uses the "ROG_EXT" header). In screenshots it appeared that this thing could display 2 temps but I haven't been able to get it to display any loop temp at all, only CPU.
> 
> Given that, in my Googling it appears that the Aquaero devices are the only thing on the market that will do what I want - display 2 temp sensor inputs at once.
> 
> With my current parts setup in mind, which model of Aquaero should I look at? Just this month I upgraded graphics card water blocks to Aquacomputer blocks and had to pick up a little square fan/rgb controller PCB to set up the RGB lighting - would this be replaced by the Aquaero or would I run both of them?
> 
> Again my apologies for noobness but I appreciate your help in advance!


In short, yes you can do this with the Aquaero. 

Here's an amazing guide that can help you paint the picture.


----------



## skupples

Kalm_Traveler said:


> Thank you. So I'm looking at the 6 XT. Just need to make sure that it will completely support my existing loop components.


pretty much everything works on aquaero, and the software just works. It's an awesome deal, in comparison to everything else in WC that keeps going up up up in price. there are a couple other solutions, but they aren't as well refined as AQ.


----------



## GTXJackBauer

*New: OCTO - the compact 8 channel fan controller with 100W power*

CLICK HERE TO READ MORE!


----------



## skupples

I really need to replace this SATA BP hubs I can't control. Maybe its time. hmm... wiring all rads to one would be a major pita though.


----------



## IT Diva

And it still has Molex . . . . . 


Another great idea spoiled by its ties to antiquity . . .


----------



## skupples

well, seeing as i can't control anything properly when using SATA power, what else would they use?


----------



## IT Diva

skupples said:


> well, seeing as i can't control anything properly when using SATA power, what else would they use?


 


Almost everything has gotten away from Molex connectors for power. If you're having issues using Sata power connections but your Molex connections are working OK, you have other issues, like maybe not all the voltages are wired in the connectors or extensions.


I just got one of these cheesy little $60 Riotoro CR1088 cases because it's all I can find in reverse atx . . . and its little RGB controller has a Sata power plug.


https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0766DLZ4D/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1


----------



## skupples

yeah idk, i'm using BP's SATA hubs, but never could get them to work, even after directly soldering wires to it that lead to the AQ channel.


----------



## IT Diva

skupples said:


> yeah idk, i'm using BP's SATA hubs, but never could get them to work, even after directly soldering wires to it that lead to the AQ channel.




The Aquaero needs both the 12V and 5V supplies, be sure the hubs have at least a 3 wire source connector. (gnd, 5v and 12v)


----------



## skupples

that's it! 

they don't. its only a 2 pin coming off of the board.

I sure do miss you when you're not around.  I've mentioned this a few times now without any input


----------



## IT Diva

skupples said:


> that's it!
> 
> they don't. its only a 2 pin coming off of the board.
> 
> I sure do miss you when you're not around.  I've mentioned this a few times now without any input





Maybe once I get the hot rod done, I'll get back to custom mods and PCs again, but for now, I'm just using up all the hardware I bought before hurricane Maria and putting it into some low end cases to make useful pcs before it gets obsolete.


I still have a bunch of Caselabs customs to work on, but I'll opt for some brand new hardware when I finally get back to them.


----------



## Leonko

GTXJackBauer said:


> *New: OCTO - the compact 8 channel fan controller with 100W power*
> 
> CLICK HERE TO READ MORE!


Can anyone ask in AC forums (i dont want to make registration ) if OCTO comes with Quadro-like software or Aquaero-like software already?
nvm i did it


----------



## skupples

Leonko said:


> Can anyone ask in AC forums (i dont want to make registration ) if OCTO comes with Quadro-like software or Aquaero-like software already?


It should sync with aquasuite like everything else.

I like how people keep calling every new hub "death of the aquaero" um... no, it's further expansion of the aquaero, if you so choose to use it as such.


----------



## Shawnb99

Aquaero will always have a place. It’s the only front bay device, only device that does voltage control and also is the only device that works as a hub for Aquabus devices allowing you to control all from the AQ.


----------



## skupples

right, they're satellites, seems like they'd come down to one to rule them all, but w/e


----------



## Tiggerdyret

war4peace said:


> You still choose either/or, but what you need to do is create a virtual sensor which gives you the highest temperature between two data sources. Then, you set your fan curve or fan limites pased on that virtual sensor.
> I don't know whether Aquasuite 2016 can do that, but AFAIK it does.


 Thanks, that is exactly what I wanted to do thanks and it works for the 2016 version! 



Edit: By the way does Aquasuite or Open Hardware monitor need to be open for the Aquero to read the software temps?


----------



## valvehead

Tiggerdyret said:


> Edit: By the way does Aquasuite or Open Hardware monitor need to be open for the Aquero to read the software temps?



No, there is an Aqua Computer Service that runs in the background that handles all of the monitoring.


Also I highly recommend that you use HWiNFO  instead of Open Hardware Monitor (or other similar program). It's constantly being upgraded, has more features, and communicates very well with the Aqua Computer Service.


----------



## skupples

both services need to be up for the software/virtual sensors to work.


----------



## Tiggerdyret

I'll just keep both programs open or at least do some tests. Thanks for your inputs


----------



## skupples

what I mean is, if both are "start with windows" enabled, then it'll work. If not, you'd need to launch & minimize them after each reboot.


----------



## Kalm_Traveler

well my black/blue Aquaero 6 XT arrived today - going to swap it out with the existing Asus OC Panel II tomorrow. Super excited to finally have a front display for both loops temperatures!


----------



## GTXJackBauer

Kalm_Traveler said:


> well my black/blue Aquaero 6 XT arrived today - going to swap it out with the existing Asus OC Panel II tomorrow. Super excited to finally have a front display for both loops temperatures!


:thumb:


----------



## Kalm_Traveler

Now to figure out how to get 2 sensors and 2 software sensors to display all at once...


----------



## InfoSeeker

Tiggerdyret said:


> By the way does Aquasuite or Open Hardware monitor need to be open for the Aquero to read the software temps?



I believe Open Hardware Monitor is no longer supported by the aquasuite.
You would need to have HWiNFO running if you are pulling sensor values from it, but not the aquasuite.
If you pull sensor values from the aquasuite>Service>Hardware Monitor tab, you may close the aquasuite.




sebastian said:


> Softwaresensors, hotkeys, Virtual Sensor, Hardware Monitoring, Ambientpx, Sound ... is processed in the aqua Computer Sevice. The aquasuite is only the UI.





sebastian said:


> Logging and exports only working when the aquasuite is running.



Above quotes from THIS THREAD


----------



## Moose-Tech

skupples said:


> what I mean is, if both are "start with windows" enabled, then it'll work. If not, you'd need to launch & minimize them after each reboot.


That is correct. I have both services start when Windows start but HWINFO64 runs in the tray. Aquaero starts minimized as smal window on my second monitor, You need this for the HWINFO data to be used by the Aquasuite ( I also set this up for my Quadro which I use for my air cooled PC).

When stress testing I bring up the HWINFO screen to monitor additional settings I don't have setup on my Aquareo display screen.

Between the two services you can setup and view any info you need for your basic Aquareo display and then view more specific data by calling up HWINFO64.


----------



## war4peace

Speaking of Aquasuite + HWInfo64, I use HWInfo64 to pull sensor data form my custom NAS located in the attic and then pull that info into Aquasuite to display data from both my main PC and the NAS into my desktop overview page. It's amazing what good software can do.


----------



## Shawnb99

Any one with the following fans know how many I can daisy chain together on one channel for the AQ or the Quadro?


Noctua NF-A14 IPPC-3000

Noctua NF-A12x25 PWM

Well it seems the Quadro has issues controlling the Noctua NF-A14 IPPC-3000. Can't control them via PWM at all. Seems all I can do is turn them on or off. Will see if connecting them to the AQ fixes anything, otherwise I'll be returning them

Also having issues with my calitemp sensors now. one is showing a temp of -12.49 and the other 3 won't show up. So frustrating having to constantly reboot to fix this crap


----------



## ruffhi

rolandos582 said:


> When it comes to flow sensors, what calibration value do you guys use? All of them give a different readout and I have a hard time understanding how it works. Is there an article about this to see what values you enter and which ones are correct?
> I'm using 2x Aqua-Computer Flow sensor (Aqua-Computer (electronic) Flow Meter G1/4 (High Flow)) + 13/10 tubing.





NewUser16 said:


> If its the USB High flow, you don't calibrate them, when you use the drop down menu, which should automatically detect your meter it will set its value automatically, I would leave it at default





skupples said:


> yeah, the high-flow should just work... mine always have.





GTXJackBauer said:


> Same here. Basically plug and play. Just make sure you plug it in into the Flow header in the back of the AQ with the specialized cable for that flow meter since unfortunately it isn't included.





war4peace said:


> Same here, I never used any calibration for it. Just out of curiosity I just went and changed the calibration to High Flow and the reported value didn't change.


I haven't been happy with my loop flow from day 1. Tried lots of things to help it along but nothing really did the trick. I have just picked up a BarrowCH flow meter ...










... and created a loop with reservoir, pump, aquacomputer high flow USB flow meter, BarrowCH flow meter and back to res. No blocks or radiators included (at the moment).

The aqua flow meter reports 4.2 lpm while the barrow reports 7.2 lpm. Changing the calibration number does nothing (as war4peace mentioned).


----------



## skupples

i'd trust aqua's device over barrow's device... j/s 

not sure if anyone pointed it out, but 90s directly off of your pump drastically reduces flow potential. 

also, as long as flow is ~.75GPM+ you aren't really missing out on anything. (~100LPH?)


----------



## war4peace

skupples said:


> not sure if anyone pointed it out, but 90s directly off of your pump drastically reduces flow potential.


Not according to my testing.
I had a couple 90 degree fittings coming straight from my pump, the flow was 5.2L/minute. After removing them, the flow didn't change at all.


----------



## ruffhi

I just added my two 360 radiators to my 'loop' and flow increased. I did swap out some shorter hoses for a longer one ... but they both increased ...

Barrow to 9.7
aqua to 5.7

Still the same ratio (7.2/4.2 = 1.72 ... and 9.7/5.7 = 1.70)

So ... consistent. I haven't had any luck changing the impel / liter factor. Put in 300, 600 and 100 ... and still got 5.7 lpm.

I am running with just 1 pump in a watercool header. Going to swap back to my dual pump system (EK-XTOP Revo Dual D5 PWM Serial) and try it with OUT flowing into a straight run and then into a 90º bend.


----------



## skupples

war4peace said:


> Not according to my testing.
> I had a couple 90 degree fittings coming straight from my pump, the flow was 5.2L/minute. After removing them, the flow didn't change at all.


might depend on the loop overall. with 4x 480s & 3 blocks, removing the 90s directly off my my pump increased flow ~75-100lph & I mean hard 90s. I still have 90s on there, they're just snake 90s now.


----------



## GTXJackBauer

skupples said:


> i'd trust aqua's device over barrow's device... j/s
> 
> not sure if anyone pointed it out, but 90s directly off of your pump drastically reduces flow potential.
> 
> also, as long as flow is ~.75GPM+ you aren't really missing out on anything. (~100LPH?)


You're right. I think I lost about half my flow with the addition of angle fittings to the loop as well as having a 90 degree angle out of the pumps. My DDC 35X2s use to be 40% PWM for 1.0/1.1 GPM when they didn't have a 90 degree fitting on the OUT. Now my newer Dual D5 pumps in serial need 90% to achieve the same with the use of an 90 degree angle fitting on the OUT. Out of 12 compression fittings in my loop, 10 are angled.


----------



## ruffhi

I just ran a test with revo dual pump headers ... here are the results with straight ...

aqua 8.2 / barrow 13.4 (ratio 1.64)

And with a 90º snake ...

aqua 8.0/ barrow 13.0 (ratio 1.62)

Not much different. I could try a hard 90º ... I have plenty of those lying around.

Edit: result with hard 90º ...

aqua 7.8/ barrow 12.8 (ratio 1.64)


----------



## skupples

GTXJackBauer said:


> You're right. I think I lost about half my flow with the addition of angle fittings to the loop as well as having a 90 degree angle out of the pumps. My DDC 35X2s use to be 40% PWM for 1.0/1.1 GPM when they didn't have a 90 degree fitting on the OUT. Now my newer Dual D5 pumps in serial need 90% to achieve the same with the use of an 90 degree angle fitting on the OUT. Out of 12 compression fittings in my loop, 10 are angled.


i've said before that it must be more of a DDC thing, but a few people have chimed in & confirmed the same behavior with D5s on big loops. so yep, sounds about right. I'll now personally on my next rebuild when I split my loop for poops n lulz. 2x 480s cooling GPUs. 2x 480s cooling board. If my MCP35x2 is still spinning by then (8 years by that point) then it'll power one & dual d5s will power the other. I've been slowly acquiring the parts via used sales for months now, but it won't happen until late 2020, 2021. post console release dream rig rebuild ftw.


----------



## war4peace

Maybe this article helps 
Judging by the impact of radiators and waterblocks on flow, my guess, based on the data presented in the article, is that angled fittings contribute to flow impact more in combination with other restrictive components.
So that's why my findings were different, because I am using flow setup in such a way that it's minimally restricting flow.
I have two 1080 Ti in SLI, a monoblock and a MoRa 420. My loop has 6x 90 degrees angled fittings. The GPUs and monoblock are all linked in parallel flow, minimizing restriction for overall flow. The MoRa 420 is known to be more restrictive than other radiators but not because the radiator channels themselves are restrictive, but simply because it's humongous. In fact, it has the lowest restriction per surface area of all radiators, having 20 parallel rows of 4x tubes each, with the tubes being round, rather than slim channels.

With 2x EKWB D5 pumps in series in the EKWB volute, my flow right now is between 310 and 313 L/h, that's around 5.2L/min or 1.37 gpm, measured using Aquacomputer's High Flow sensor.


----------



## Moose-Tech

Hi, I have a question about adding a Quadro to an existing Aquaero LT6

I recently built an external rad and pump that is connected to my main case. The external rad fans, a temp sensor and the pump are connected to my Quadro.
I connected the Quadro to an external USB port and it connected to my system, updated the software and added a tab to the Aquaero. 
I can see my stuff on the Quadro tab but I cannot get the Aquaero to 'see' the external devices.

What I am trying to do is have the Aquaero control the external fans using my existing fan controller curve, and also do the same with the pumps. 
I want to have both pumps running on a custom curve controlled by my Aquaero.
I can't 'see' the new fans or the new pump on the Aquaero, and therefore cannot link them to an existing curve.
The Quadro is not showing up as an Aquabus component.

I re-reading the instructions, it looks like I may need to also have the Aquabus connected to the Quadro, in addition to the existing USB connection.
If so, should I use the four pin Aquabus cable connected to Aquabus terminal on the Quadro? Does this then connect to the USB 2.0 connector on the mobo header?
The reason I am asking is because otherwise I would have to create my own harness to connect to the Aquabus High terminal on the Aquaero to the itty bitty 4 pin on the Quadro.

I would appreciate any help you can give at this time.


----------



## skupples

yeah, pretty sure you've gotta aquabus into the aquaero for that level sync.


----------



## Bartdude

Yes you need to connect the Aquabus cable to the Aquero from the Quadro, I'm doing exactly what you want to do.


----------



## Moose-Tech

Bartdude said:


> Yes you need to connect the Aquabus cable to the Aquero from the Quadro, I'm doing exactly what you want to do.


Thanks. I just ordered this from Amazon that should do the job.
{Aquacomputer Aquabus- Cable 4-Pin for Vision - 70cm (53214)
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B077P3XQ9T/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I just want to confirm this gets connected to the Quadro aquabus connector and the Aquaero 6LT Aquabus High connector.This way I can set-up a standard 4 pin fan extension to the outside of the case as a disconnect point while i wait for the cable to arrive


----------



## Bartdude

Moose-Tech said:


> Thanks. I just ordered this from Amazon that should do the job.
> {Aquacomputer Aquabus- Cable 4-Pin for Vision - 70cm (53214)
> https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B077P3XQ9T/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
> 
> I just want to confirm this gets connected to the Quadro aquabus connector and the Aquaero 6LT Aquabus High connector.This way I can set-up a standard 4 pin fan extension to the outside of the case as a disconnect point while i wait for the cable to arrive


Yes


----------



## Moose-Tech

Bartdude said:


> Yes


Thanks!


----------



## d0mmie

Hey there. Does anyone know if you can use the powered PWM splitters on a Quadro? Something like this one from EKWB:

https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-cable-splitter-4-fan-pwm-extended

I have a situation where I need one output to split into 4 fans, and I can't find any splitters that do 4-way split without being powered.


----------



## Shawnb99

Yep. All the power for those is being supplied by the Molex connector so in theory you can connect as many of those as you want to a Quadro

Get a Splitty9 if you want to split multiple fans without powering them
https://shop.aquacomputer.de/product_info.php?language=en&products_id=3420

They also have a powered Splitty9 as well https://shop.aquacomputer.de/product_info.php?products_id=3830

Or the Octo as well

https://shop.aquacomputer.de/product_info.php?language=en&products_id=3832


----------



## d0mmie

Shawnb99 said:


> Yep. All the power for those is being supplied by the Molex connector so in theory you can connect as many of those as you want to a Quadro
> 
> Get a Splitty9 if you want to split multiple fans without powering them
> https://shop.aquacomputer.de/product_info.php?language=en&products_id=3420
> 
> They also have a powered Splitty9 as well https://shop.aquacomputer.de/product_info.php?products_id=3830
> 
> Or the Octo as well
> 
> https://shop.aquacomputer.de/product_info.php?language=en&products_id=3832


Many thanks.

Yes I saw the Octo earlier today when I visited Aqua Computers website. I like it! But I already have two Quadro's, one which two PWM ports seemingly died but I'll need to reset it to factory default and test it out proper, but else I guess I could just use two of those


----------



## badkarma3059

Quick question for the Aquaero experts here. Currently going run two D5 next pumps with my 6XT. I have the Y splitter to join the two pumps https://shop.aquacomputer.de/product_info.php?language=en&products_id=2847

Now I just need to run a cable up to the Aquaero. Seeing as how that is a female end on the Y, would it be possible to run a pwm extension cable up the Aquaero? Only extension I could find from a computer is female on both end and I meed female/male 

Thanks in advance


----------



## Shawnb99

badkarma3059 said:


> Quick question for the Aquaero experts here. Currently going run two D5 next pumps with my 6XT. I have the Y splitter to join the two pumps https://shop.aquacomputer.de/product_info.php?language=en&products_id=2847
> 
> Now I just need to run a cable up to the Aquaero. Seeing as how that is a female end on the Y, would it be possible to run a pwm extension cable up the Aquaero? Only extension I could find from a computer is female on both end and I meed female/male
> 
> Thanks in advance




Yep a normal 4 pin cable will work.


----------



## badkarma3059

Awesome. Thanks 👍👍


----------



## sakete

Is it necessary to get something like the Aquaero when building a custom loop? It seems like another expensive part at $150-$200, and most cases these days don't even have an easy way of mounting those 5.25" brackets anymore.

If not the Aquaero, what's the most cost effective way to monitor and control a custom loop (i.e. control the pumps and fan speeds?).


----------



## skupples

you can get the acquero without the screen. 

otherwise, Quadro, or whatever the octo variant is called.


----------



## sakete

skupples said:


> you can get the acquero without the screen.
> 
> otherwise, Quadro, or whatever the octo variant is called.


Is that the Aquaero LT?

The OCTO looks even more affordable and appears that I could control most of the same functions, such as fans and pump, and read flow and temperature sensor data.

So what's the benefit of getting the Aquaero 6 LT @ EUR 100 over the OCTO @ EUR 55 if all I want to do is control radiator fans and pump and read the relevant temp and sensor data?


----------



## Fluxmaven

They aren't required for a custom loop, but they are a nice tool to have. Aquasuite is easy to work with and having a single device that can control all your fans, temp sensors, flow meter etc is really nice. 

Aquaero 6 LT USB if you want the full version without the screen. 

Quadro\Octo gets you most of the stuff you would want at an even cheaper price point. And if you don't need any of the additional features of the Aquaero, these are all you need. 

I have an Aquaero so I haven't really looked for alternatives, but I saw EK has a new controller called the loop connect 51. They gave them away on black Friday as a promo deal... IDK when they will actually be available for sale or how much they will be though.


----------



## sakete

Fluxmaven said:


> They aren't required for a custom loop, but they are a nice tool to have. Aquasuite is easy to work with and having a single device that can control all your fans, temp sensors, flow meter etc is really nice.
> 
> Aquaero 6 LT USB if you want the full version without the screen.
> 
> Quadro gets you most of the stuff you would want at an even cheaper price point.
> 
> I have an Aquaero so I haven't really looked for alternatives, but I saw EK has a new controller called the loop connect 51. They gave them away on black Friday as a promo deal... IDK when they will actually be available for sale or how much they will be though.


Thanks. So if I were to buy this Aquaero/Quadro thing, will it be compatible with flow meters from other brands such as Koolance? Is all this stuff standardized, or is it proprietary?


----------



## skupples

i'd recommend sticking to aqua computer's parts. they're superior, and will always be the best mate with Aquasuite, without busting balls & splitting hairs to calibrate.

yes, the LT is the no screen version. it has mobo stand offs, so you can mount it somewhere.


----------



## Fluxmaven

I would stick with an Aquacomputer flow meter at least. 2 pin temp sensors are all pretty much the same, but they are cheap enough I would just get everything from Aquacomputer.


----------



## sakete

Fluxmaven said:


> I would stick with an Aquacomputer flow meter at least. 2 pin temp sensors are all pretty much the same, but they are cheap enough I would just get everything from Aquacomputer.


Right. It doesn't appear that Aquacomputer sells a flow meter with a built-in display, or a flow-meter with built-in temp sensor, right? Looking on their website right now it doesn't appear so.


----------



## skupples

MIPS devices are the software flow, temp, etc sensors. no screens, except XT.

AquaLT comes with 2 prong temp probes. all you need on top of that is 1x inline/plug sensor, or the MIPS device to cover temp, flow, and a couple other things I think.

folks have messed with ribbon cables to extend the screens, not sure how well its worked... likely a distance issue.


----------



## sakete

skupples said:


> MIPS devices are the software flow, temp, etc sensors. no screens, except XT.
> 
> AquaLT comes with 2 prong temp probes. all you need on top of that is 1x inline/plug sensor, or the MIPS device to cover temp, flow, and a couple other things I think.
> 
> folks have messed with ribbon cables to extend the screens, not sure how well its worked... likely a distance issue.


Cool, thanks. Can aquasuite also read CPU and GPU temps, just like other software can (I'm assuming so, but want to confirm)? I like setting fan curves based on CPU/GPU temps, though with radiators do people typically set it off of water temps? Or still just CPU/GPU temps?


----------



## Fluxmaven

I don't believe they have any flow meters with built in displays. They do have the VISION displays if you just want to add on a small screen.

I run a D5 NEXT pump and it has an integrated temp sensor, virtual flow sensor (only accurate with their fluid so I use a separate sensor) and a small display so I can check temp at a glance without having Aquasuite open. 

You can configure virtual sensors within Aquasuite for CPU, GPU, SSD etc... I wouldn't use those values for your fan speeds though. CPU and GPU temps fluctuate rather quickly which will make your fans ramp up and down constantly. Water temp rises and falls gradually, so it makes more sense to base fans of water temp. Or set them based on a deltaT target to keep your water temp within say 10c of ambient.


----------



## GTXJackBauer

Here's a great Guide to get you started.


----------



## skupples

you could also get a tiny USB screen & mirror over aquasuite = most legit, if you ask me. Only thing like it, is the new lamptron thing (it was them, right?...goooooogling)

edit - 
Lamptron HM070, which can operate in desktop mode, or as just a read out. Next level shiny, imo. XT screen is quite... spartan. I wish you could at least flux the mono-color to pepboy green or something


----------



## InfoSeeker

sakete said:


> Is it necessary to get something like the Aquaero when building a custom loop? It seems like another expensive part at $150-$200, and most cases these days don't even have an easy way of mounting those 5.25" brackets anymore.
> 
> If not the Aquaero, what's the most cost effective way to monitor and control a custom loop (i.e. control the pumps and fan speeds?).



IMHO the most useful thing the aquaero offeres over the quadro/octo is the virtual temperature sensor. But that has been eclipsed in aquasuite X with the Playground/Virtual software sensor implementation.

Plus the quadro/octo can control RGBpx, which the aquaero does not.

But if you have non-PWM fans, then the aquaero 6 LT would be your device of choice.


----------



## GAN77

InfoSeeker said:


> IMHO the most useful thing the aquaero offeres over the quadro/octo is the virtual temperature sensor. But that has been eclipsed in aquasuite X with the Playground/Virtual software sensor implementation.
> 
> Plus the quadro/octo can control RGBpx, which the aquaero does not.
> 
> But if you have non-PWM fans, then the aquaero 6 LT would be your device of choice.


Doesn't Octo know how to use virtual sensors?


----------



## jvillaveces

I need to access HWInfo64 data, such as CPU usage, GPU load, etc, but I can't find the option to do so in the newer version of Aquasuite. Last time I did it was in the previous generation of the software, before it got its own hardware monitor. How can this be accomplished in version X.11? Thanks!


----------



## war4peace

jvillaveces said:


> I need to access HWInfo64 data, such as CPU usage, GPU load, etc, but I can't find the option to do so in the newer version of Aquasuite. Last time I did it was in the previous generation of the software, before it got its own hardware monitor. How can this be accomplished in version X.11? Thanks!


Right click HWInfo64 tray icon, Settings / place a check mark next to "Shared Memory Support".


----------



## Shawnb99

The Aquero is the only device that provides voltage control, it's also the only device that can be used as an Aquabus master meaning you can connect 2 Quadro's, 2 D5 Pumps or 1 Octo to the Aquero and control it all via the Aquero. It's also the only device with an Alarm function
Using a Quadro or Octo means you must have PWM fans and can only control the PWM speeds. With an Aquero you can control how much voltage as well as the PWM speeds.

Temp sensor on the D5 is very inaccurate. You're better off getting an inline temp sensor or a Calitemp


----------



## war4peace

Ref. temp sensors, I found the most accurate are those with G1/4 plugs. I usually mount them at the radiator entry and exit points.
However, as with all temp sensors, you need to calibrate them first (you don't want to know which method I am using lol).


----------



## InfoSeeker

GAN77 said:


> Doesn't Octo know how to use virtual sensors?
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler
> 
> 
> 
> https://forum.aquacomputer.de/images-ac/2019/aquasuite_octo_09_de.png



According to Shoggy, yes it does.


> This means you have all the options: Configure once and then run the OCTO completely autonomously or comfortably with many extended functions. *Of course, the OCTO has access to the functions of the new aquasuite Playground.* This means that previously unimaginable functions can be set up in just a few minutes and make OCTO an incredibly powerful tool.


----------



## InfoSeeker

Shawnb99 said:


> The Aquero is the only device that provides voltage control, it's also the only device that can be used as an Aquabus master meaning you can connect 2 Quadro's, 2 D5 Pumps or 1 Octo to the Aquero and control it all via the Aquero. It's also the only device with an Alarm function
> Using a Quadro or Octo means you must have PWM fans and can only control the PWM speeds. With an Aquero you can control how much voltage as well as the PWM speeds.



Yes, if you are reusing older voltage controlled fans or use calitemps, then the aquaero is indeed your fan controller.

Though true that you need an aquaero to aquabus to an aquaero, I am not sure why that is a benefit. Aquabusing an OCTO to an aquaero means you go from 12 available fan controller curves to 4.

The OCTO does have a configurable signal output, "for connection to power switch or mainboard, configurable hardware alarms", according to Shoggy.

There are still uses for the aquaero, but for new builds implementing latest technology, it is not really so relevant anymore. I can do everything in a normal build with one OCTO at about half the cost of an aquaero 6 LT.

Just my disruptive opinion.


----------



## sakete

Shawnb99 said:


> The Aquero is the only device that provides voltage control, it's also the only device that can be used as an Aquabus master meaning you can connect 2 Quadro's, 2 D5 Pumps or 1 Octo to the Aquero and control it all via the Aquero. It's also the only device with an Alarm function
> 
> Using a Quadro or Octo means you must have PWM fans and can only control the PWM speeds. With an Aquero you can control how much voltage as well as the PWM speeds.
> 
> 
> 
> Temp sensor on the D5 is very inaccurate. You're better off getting an inline temp sensor or a Calitemp


OK good to know, I will probably not get the D5 then, and will get something a bit cheaper (perhaps a dual-pump setup for redundancy).


----------



## sakete

war4peace said:


> Ref. temp sensors, I found the most accurate are those with G1/4 plugs. I usually mount them at the radiator entry and exit points.
> 
> However, as with all temp sensors, you need to calibrate them first (you don't want to know which method I am using lol).


So you use 2 sensors? One at entry and one at exit point of radiator?


----------



## sakete

InfoSeeker said:


> Yes, if you are reusing older voltage controlled fans or use calitemps, then the aquaero is indeed your fan controller.
> 
> 
> 
> Though true that you need an aquaero to aquabus to an aquaero, I am not sure why that is a benefit. Aquabusing an OCTO to an aquaero means you go from 12 available fan controller curves to 4.
> 
> 
> 
> The OCTO does have a configurable signal output, "for connection to power switch or mainboard, configurable hardware alarms", according to Shoggy.
> 
> 
> 
> There are still uses for the aquaero, but for new builds implementing latest technology, it is not really so relevant anymore. I can do everything in a normal build with one OCTO at about half the cost of an aquaero 6 LT.
> 
> 
> 
> Just my disruptive opinion.


Yeah, I'd be using it in a new build with all PWM fans. So you're saying that by just using the OCTO, I can set up to 12 fan curves?

I'd definitely like to just settle for the OCTO, as it's much cheaper. All I need is a way to control pump and fan speeds, and read temperature and flow data from inline sensors.

And then set appropriate fan and pump rpm curves based on water temp, or deltaT, or whatever makes sense.


----------



## Shawnb99

sakete said:


> Yeah, I'd be using it in a new build with all PWM fans. So you're saying that by just using the OCTO, I can set up to 12 fan curves?
> 
> I'd definitely like to just settle for the OCTO, as it's much cheaper. All I need is a way to control pump and fan speeds, and read temperature and flow data from inline sensors.
> 
> And then set appropriate fan and pump rpm curves based on water temp, or deltaT, or whatever makes sense.


Octo only has 8 channels, you would need to add the Aquero to get a total of 12. Or add a Quadro and control those 4 channels seperate


----------



## sakete

Shawnb99 said:


> Octo only has 8 channels, you would need to add the Aquero to get a total of 12. Or add a Quadro and control those 4 channels seperate


OK. Well I probably won't need more than 8 separate channels. Two sets of radiator fans would be two channels (3 fans per radiator, which I'd connect to one channel using splitters), two sets of intake fans, and then an exhaust fan would be another 3, and then one channel for the pump. So in total I'd need 6 channels.

And then I'd need a sensor input for water temps, and a sensor input for ambient temps. 

With the case I have in mind, Phanteks 719, I'd have two 360 rads (or a 480 and a 360), one at the top as intake, one on the side as intake, and then 2 or 3 case fans at the front as intake, and one at the bottom as intake, and then one exhaust fan. Perhaps too much intake, but to me it makes more sense to blow cool air from outside the case on to the radiators, than warmer air from inside the case.

But I'd need to do some testing which setup would overall give me the best temps. Which is also why I'm not sure I'll ever go the hard-line route, as soft-lines give more flexibility (pun intended) for moving things around a little without having to first drain the whole system and disconnect all the tubes. May just go with the black ZMT tubes (are they also sold in other colors?).


----------



## InfoSeeker

sakete said:


> Yeah, I'd be using it in a new build with all PWM fans. So you're saying that by just using the OCTO, I can set up to 12 fan curves?
> 
> I'd definitely like to just settle for the OCTO, as it's much cheaper. All I need is a way to control pump and fan speeds, and read temperature and flow data from inline sensors.
> 
> And then set appropriate fan and pump rpm curves based on water temp, or deltaT, or whatever makes sense.



If you want to plug the flow sensor into the OCTO, I believe the Flow sensor high flow is the only one plug-in compatible with the OCTO. Else, at the cost of using an additional USB port, you could use the Flow sensor high flow USB.


----------



## jvillaveces

war4peace said:


> Right click HWInfo64 tray icon, Settings / place a check mark next to "Shared Memory Support".


Thanks. I had already done that before posting the question. My problem is I can't find a place to activate on Aquasuite. When I try to add a datasource HWInfo64 doesn't show up.


----------



## war4peace

sakete said:


> So you use 2 sensors? One at entry and one at exit point of radiator?


Yes, that enables Aquasuite to calculate power dissipation for the radiator. 



jvillaveces said:


> Thanks. I had already done that before posting the question. My problem is I can't find a place to activate on Aquasuite. When I try to add a datasource HWInfo64 doesn't show up.


I don't know what else to say, mine appears as source and those were the settings I had to perform.


----------



## InfoSeeker

jvillaveces said:


> Thanks. I had already done that before posting the question. My problem is I can't find a place to activate on Aquasuite. When I try to add a datasource HWInfo64 doesn't show up.



You don't see HWiNFO in the list, but everything else is there?


----------



## jvillaveces

InfoSeeker said:


> You don't see HWiNFO in the list, but everything else is there?


I'm not home right now so I can't send a screenshot, but the only data sources that appear are "aquaero" and "Vision". Most of the items on your list don't show up for me


----------



## 414347

Just to give users on windows 7 heads up!

If you are planning on staying with this OS and have still X4 or older aquasuite installed, don't update to X11, unless you have other issues you dealing with your current version but X11 will give you more issues then benefits. 

Windows 7 is slowly being dropped by Aquacomputer and if you not aware of procedure with updating to newer aquasuite and hardware firmware upgrade alongside, you cannot downgrade hardware firmware once updated and that means , you cannot go back to previous aquasuite and you might be stack with broken hardware or software, unless you upgrade to Windows 10, just friendly warning


----------



## 414347

jvillaveces said:


> I'm not home right now so I can't send a screenshot, but the only data sources that appear are "aquaero" and "Vision". Most of the items on your list don't show up for me


Yap, its hidden where InfoSeeker is showing


----------



## oreonutz

jvillaveces said:


> I'm not home right now so I can't send a screenshot, but the only data sources that appear are "aquaero" and "Vision". Most of the items on your list don't show up for me


I had a very similar issue happen to me today, it was just HWinfo sensors that weren't showing up for me. In my case, it seemed to be because I had updated HWinfo, (The sensors were in Aquasuite before the update, but after the ones I had already imported names remained, but the value's were gone, and I could no longer import new sensors from HWinfo, it was just gone from the list) so I ended up rebooting my PC, once I booted back up, the sensors were there again.

I am sure you have probably tried this already, but if you haven't, worth a shot.


----------



## oreonutz

Anybody here with a Quadro, want the ability to base your fan curve off of a Delta sensor?

Let me know. 

Beta testing a solution for inclusion of Delta sensors in a 3rd party Temp sensor app, and need more testers. So far its been working great for me, and in this case you do not need an Aquaero in your system.


----------



## GTXJackBauer

oreonutz said:


> I had a very similar issue happen to me today, it was just HWinfo sensors that weren't showing up for me. In my case, it seemed to be because I had updated HWinfo, (The sensors were in Aquasuite before the update, but after the ones I had already imported names remained, but the value's were gone, and I could no longer import new sensors from HWinfo, it was just gone from the list) so I ended up rebooting my PC, once I booted back up, the sensors were there again.
> 
> I am sure you have probably tried this already, but if you haven't, worth a shot.


A lot of times folks don't restart their PCs or completely power down in a update which would remedy their situation.


----------



## oreonutz

GTXJackBauer said:


> A lot of times folks don't restart their PCs or completely power down in a update which would remedy their situation.


Yup, being an IT Admin, as much as its made fun of, its something I still say at least Once a day, sometimes 10 Times a day, even to seasoned Tech's, "Have you tried rebooting it yet?" LOL.

We often want to find the root cause, and don't just want to reset a device and then not find out what caused in the first place. But at a certain point you have to realize that you are just wasting time, and sometimes the answer is just that your system was updated in someway and needs a reboot. Its funny though when, you have to tell the same people this over and over, then its like, really?


----------



## GTXJackBauer

oreonutz said:


> Yup, being an IT Admin, as much as its made fun of, its something I still say at least Once a day, sometimes 10 Times a day, even to seasoned Tech's, "Have you tried rebooting it yet?" LOL.
> 
> We often want to find the root cause, and don't just want to reset a device and then not find out what caused in the first place. But at a certain point you have to realize that you are just wasting time, and sometimes the answer is just that your system was updated in someway and needs a reboot. Its funny though when, you have to tell the same people this over and over, then its like, really?


It happens to the best of us but I try to remind myself to restart after an update whether it's AQsuite, Nvidia, Windows, etc. Heck, I'll sometimes restart to flush the system if you will when it's been on for days if not weeks.


----------



## InfoSeeker

oreonutz said:


> Anybody here with a Quadro, want the ability to base your fan curve off of a Delta sensor?
> 
> Let me know.
> 
> Beta testing a solution for inclusion of Delta sensors in a 3rd party Temp sensor app, and need more testers. So far its been working great for me, and in this case you do not need an Aquaero in your system.



Is "Delta sensor" a brand of sensor, or do you mean manipulating two existing sensors to derive their delta?


----------



## skupples

oreonutz said:


> Yup, being an IT Admin, as much as its made fun of, its something I still say at least Once a day, sometimes 10 Times a day, even to seasoned Tech's, "Have you tried rebooting it yet?" LOL.
> 
> We often want to find the root cause, and don't just want to reset a device and then not find out what caused in the first place. But at a certain point you have to realize that you are just wasting time, and sometimes the answer is just that your system was updated in someway and needs a reboot. Its funny though when, you have to tell the same people this over and over, then its like, really?


one of my counterparts can't stand my "if it takes more than 15 minutes to fix, usmt+mdt it" perspective of the world. We were given these tools for a reason, and on modern systems, they're stupidly fast.

restarts take 6-20 seconds these days, so, its my first move, even if up time is less than 8 hours... but unless it seems like an issue that's system wide, idgafark. 



InfoSeeker said:


> Is "Delta sensor" a brand of sensor, or do you mean manipulating two existing sensors to derive their delta?


yeah, its a delta-t compounding sensor built into hw-info.


----------



## oreonutz

InfoSeeker said:


> Is "Delta sensor" a brand of sensor, or do you mean manipulating two existing sensors to derive their delta?


Yes sir! I thought I would get more people jumping onto this, and was trying to start with just a handful of people without making a stink about it, but this feature is awesome and game changing in my opinion. More Testers Welcome, and thanks to @Mumak for putting it in so quickly after being 'Politely' harrased by me on it, lol.

Its a new feature in HWinfo. It gives you the ability to take 2 sensors of your choice, any sensors that HWinfo already has listed, so for example lets say You have a "Water Temp 1" and you have a "Ambient Temp 1". You now can take the value of "Water Temp 1" and subtract it by the value of "Ambient Temp 1", and the result can be listed into a whole new custom sensor, that you can name "Delta Temp 1", which will now be listed in HWinfo.

What makes this so mind boggling, is there are a few USB Fan Controllers on the market that will allow you to pull in sensors from HWinfo, one of them being the Quadro. The Quadro does not allow you to create a delta temp sensor in Aquasuite, that feature is held strictly for The Aquaero. But the Quadro does allow you to pull in Software Temperatures from HWinfo, so you now can pull in that Delta T from HWinfo, and now create a fan curve around it.

Obviously HWinfo will need to be open for this to work. For this reason the Aquaero is obviously still the better fan controller as your curves are saved to the device, so no program needs to be open for your fan curves to work, so I still use the Aquaero in mission critical systems. But for my gaming systems, where in Aquaero is kind of overkill, but I still want a Quadro because in my opinion its better then MB Fan headers, now I can pair it with HWinfo and have me a fan curve based off of a Delta, instead of before where I was forced to create my fan curve around Water Temp, or Die Temp. 

So I should think there should be others on this forum who would find this just as useful as I, and @Mumak gave me permission to release to you guys, if any one is interested, will post instructions.


----------



## 414347

oreonutz said:


> Yes sir! I thought I would get more people jumping onto this, and was trying to start with just a handful of people without making a stink about it, but this feature is awesome and game changing in my opinion. More Testers Welcome, and thanks to @Mumak for putting it in so quickly after being 'Politely' harrased by me on it, lol.
> 
> Its a new feature in HWinfo. It gives you the ability to take 2 sensors of your choice, any sensors that HWinfo already has listed, so for example lets say You have a "Water Temp 1" and you have a "Ambient Temp 1". You now can take the value of "Water Temp 1" and subtract it by the value of "Ambient Temp 1", and the result can be listed into a whole new custom sensor, that you can name "Delta Temp 1", which will now be listed in HWinfo.
> 
> What makes this so mind boggling, is there are a few USB Fan Controllers on the market that will allow you to pull in sensors from HWinfo, one of them being the Quadro. The Quadro does not allow you to create a delta temp sensor in Aquasuite, that feature is held strictly for The Aquaero. But the Quadro does allow you to pull in Software Temperatures from HWinfo, so you now can pull in that Delta T from HWinfo, and now create a fan curve around it.
> 
> Obviously HWinfo will need to be open for this to work. For this reason the Aquaero is obviously still the better fan controller as your curves are saved to the device, so no program needs to be open for your fan curves to work, so I still use the Aquaero in mission critical systems. But for my gaming systems, where in Aquaero is kind of overkill, but I still want a Quadro because in my opinion its better then MB Fan headers, now I can pair it with HWinfo and have me a fan curve based off of a Delta, instead of before where I was forced to create my fan curve around Water Temp, or Die Temp.
> 
> So I should think there should be others on this forum who would find this just as useful as I, and @Mumak gave me permission to release to you guys, if any one is interested, will post instructions.



+1


----------



## Barefooter

oreonutz said:


> Yes sir! I thought I would get more people jumping onto this, and was trying to start with just a handful of people without making a stink about it, but this feature is awesome and game changing in my opinion. More Testers Welcome, and thanks to @Mumak for putting it in so quickly after being 'Politely' harrased by me on it, lol.
> 
> Its a new feature in HWinfo. It gives you the ability to take 2 sensors of your choice, any sensors that HWinfo already has listed, so for example lets say You have a "Water Temp 1" and you have a "Ambient Temp 1". You now can take the value of "Water Temp 1" and subtract it by the value of "Ambient Temp 1", and the result can be listed into a whole new custom sensor, that you can name "Delta Temp 1", which will now be listed in HWinfo.
> 
> What makes this so mind boggling, is there are a few USB Fan Controllers on the market that will allow you to pull in sensors from HWinfo, one of them being the Quadro. The Quadro does not allow you to create a delta temp sensor in Aquasuite, that feature is held strictly for The Aquaero. *But the Quadro does allow you to pull in Software Temperatures from HWinfo, so you now can pull in that Delta T from HWinfo, and now create a fan curve around it.*
> 
> Obviously HWinfo will need to be open for this to work. For this reason the Aquaero is obviously still the better fan controller as your curves are saved to the device, so no program needs to be open for your fan curves to work, so I still use the Aquaero in mission critical systems. But for my gaming systems, where in Aquaero is kind of overkill, but I still want a Quadro because in my opinion its better then MB Fan headers, now I can pair it with HWinfo and have me a fan curve based off of a Delta, instead of before where I was forced to create my fan curve around Water Temp, or Die Temp.
> 
> So I should think there should be others on this forum who would find this just as useful as I, and @Mumak gave me permission to release to you guys, if any one is interested, will post instructions.


This is a very cool feature that many people can take advantage of :thumb:

I always have HWiNFO open when Windows starts and leave it open on a secondary monitor, then with a quick glance I can see everything HWiNFO is monitoring.


----------



## oreonutz

NewUser16 said:


> +1


OK, will drop in here. Along with Directions. If anyone needs help setting this up just Quote or PM me, and I will help out. This link will only be good until the next official/beta release on the HWinfo Site, but that will include this feature, so if this link doesn't work for you in the future, just grab the newest version off of HWinfo's Site, the directions to set it up will be the same, unless otherwise noted in the build notes by @Mumak.

Beta Build of HWiNFO: www.hwinfo.com/beta/hwi64_621_4052.zip

Directions:
It's based on the custom sensor feature, so make sure to read up on that first, here: https://www.hwinfo.com/forum/threads/custom-user-sensors-in-hwinfo.5817/

Make sure to create the above described custom sensor entry in the registry, and for the "Value", use a string (REG_SZ) with the following format:
"value_name1" - "value_name2".
So if your sensor values are called "Water temp" and "Ambient temp", put the following into registry as Value: (You can copy and paste into registry and then just change the names to your specific sensor names, Quotations needed around each sensor name as in below example)


Spoiler



"Water temp" - "Ambient temp"



Strings are case-sensitive. 

Also, if you have multiple values with the same name, you might need to rename the desired value to be unique for that formula to work.

Currently, the following operations are supported: +, -, *, /, min(x,y,...), max(x,y,...). You can also use regular numbers in the formula.
You can of course use an unlimited amount of operands i.e.: "Water temp" - "Ambient temp" * 1000 + "Temp2" ...

Feel free to let us know how this has worked for you. Will be happy to pass your feedback along. And Martin is rather accessible if you rather deal with him yourself, I just don't want to overload on him if we don't have to, he was incredibly nice to push this in for us so quickly. Will be donating another $20 to him Monday night, if anyone else cares to join in, the more the Merrier, he has a paypal on his HWinfo.com Site that you can donate directly to. (BTW, this was not requested by him, just want to show him that we appreciate him, he specifically told me he doesn't do this for the money when I offered him some up front, so that makes me want to give him my money more!)


----------



## InfoSeeker

oreonutz said:


> Yes sir! I thought I would get more people jumping onto this, and was trying to start with just a handful of people without making a stink about it, but this feature is awesome and game changing in my opinion. More Testers Welcome, and thanks to @Mumak for putting it in so quickly after being 'Politely' harrased by me on it, lol.
> 
> Its a new feature in HWinfo. It gives you the ability to take 2 sensors of your choice, any sensors that HWinfo already has listed, so for example lets say You have a "Water Temp 1" and you have a "Ambient Temp 1". You now can take the value of "Water Temp 1" and subtract it by the value of "Ambient Temp 1", and the result can be listed into a whole new custom sensor, that you can name "Delta Temp 1", which will now be listed in HWinfo.What makes this so mind boggling, is there are a few USB Fan Controllers on the market that will allow you to pull in sensors from HWinfo, one of them being the Quadro. The Quadro does not allow you to create a delta temp sensor in Aquasuite, that feature is held strictly for The Aquaero. But the Quadro does allow you to pull in Software Temperatures from HWinfo, so you now can pull in that Delta T from HWinfo, and now create a fan curve around it.
> 
> Obviously HWinfo will need to be open for this to work. For this reason the Aquaero is obviously still the better fan controller as your curves are saved to the device, so no program needs to be open for your fan curves to work, so I still use the Aquaero in mission critical systems. But for my gaming systems, where in Aquaero is kind of overkill, but I still want a Quadro because in my opinion its better then MB Fan headers, now I can pair it with HWinfo and have me a fan curve based off of a Delta, instead of before where I was forced to create my fan curve around Water Temp, or Die Temp.
> 
> So I should think there should be others on this forum who would find this just as useful as I, and @Mumak gave me permission to release to you guys, if any one is interested, will post instructions.



The aquasuite X does allow one to build a virtual sensor in the "Playground" (clip below), and as long as it is a temperature value, the quadro will have it available.

But I am very interested in the HWiNFO plug-in/doo-hickey if you please


----------



## oreonutz

InfoSeeker said:


> The aquasuite X does allow one to build a virtual sensor in the "Playground" (clip below), and as long as it is a temperature value, the quadro will have it available.
> 
> But I am very interested in the HWiNFO plug-in/doo-hickey if you please


So I definitely still have more to learn about Aquasuite, so feel free to correct me here. But don't you only get access to the Playground if you have an Aquaero in your system? Is there another way to create a virtual sensor in Aquasuite, create a delta, and have the Quadro use it for a Fan Curve without the Aquaero in the system? Its possible I am working on outdated information.

Posted the link and directions to the Beta HWinfo above.


----------



## InfoSeeker

oreonutz said:


> So I definitely still have more to learn about Aquasuite, so feel free to correct me here. But don't you only get access to the Playground if you have an Aquaero in your system? Is there another way to create a virtual sensor in Aquasuite, create a delta, and have the Quadro use it for a Fan Curve without the Aquaero in the system? Its possible I am working on outdated information.
> 
> Posted the link and directions to the Beta HWinfo above.



The Playground (virtual sensors) is available without the aquaero... it is inherent to the aquasuite X. Plus the Playground will work with ANY sensor values, not just temperatures... though the final value may still need to be temperature for some devices, as for the quadro.

Edit:
Below is a clip from aquacomputer's intro for the OCTO, and if you look at the tabs on the left side, there is no aquaero, just the OCTO.


----------



## oreonutz

InfoSeeker said:


> The Playground (virtual sensors) is available without the aquaero... it is inherent to the aquasuite X. Plus the Playground will work with ANY sensor values, not just temperatures... though the final value may still need to be temperature for some devices, as for the quadro.
> 
> Edit:
> Below is a clip from aquacomputer's intro for the OCTO, and if you look at the tabs on the left side, there is no aquaero, just the OCTO.


I appreciate this knowledge. I must still be running an outdated version of Aquasuite because I don't have the Playground in mine. The weird thing is, one of the builds that I am currently testing this beta version of HWinfo is a build that I just built a week before Christmas. I installed the Aquasuite software 12/19/2019, and fully updated it then. It has been bugging me to update since, I think an update came out on the 12/20/2019 and I haven't updated it yet. But I do not see the "Playground" in this. Is this something I need to enable somehow? Here is a screenshot of the current setup on this build. (And as I took this screenshot, I realized it says I am using Aquasuite Version x4, which is current as of July 2019. I thought I fully updated the software, But apparently I did not, this must be my problem. Guess I will update it and play with it now. I had no idea they finally gave us this ability. Either way, HWinfo's new feature will be useful for the other USB Fan Controllers on the Market that allow you to import sensor data from HWinfo, and its a cool ability to have regardless. Thanks for informing me! Here is the screenshot anyway...):



Spoiler


----------



## skupples

yeah, X just dropped like 1-2 weeks ago.


----------



## jvillaveces

InfoSeeker said:


> You don't see HWiNFO in the list, but everything else is there?


Per the advice on this thread, I restarted my PC, then fully powered it off and booted again. Still, this is all I have in Aquasuite:


----------



## oreonutz

jvillaveces said:


> Per the advice on this thread, I restarted my PC, then fully powered it off and booted again. Still, this is all I have in Aquasuite:


I Don't know this for a fact, but its worth trying. I had a similar issue, but it was when I was using the Portable Version of HWiNFO. Try installing it (HWiNFO I mean, Instead of running the portable version, grab the newest instalable version, and then seeing if it shows up in your Sensors. If that works for you, what I did to keep using the newer Beta Versions that they don't provide installers for, I just copy and pasted the Portable exe's and ini into the C:\Program Files\HWiNFO\{Version Number} Folder, overwriting what was there, and then I had the newest version sensors popping up in Aquasuite), rebooting, then see if it shows up. It definitely should, I have it on mine, both on the old version I was running (x4) and now the new Version that I am running now (x11)

Screenshot:


Spoiler















*EDIT:* Also, I am no expert on Aquasuite, far from it, I am still learning all the ropes of it, I have always barely used it until about the last few months. So, someone might be able to correct me on this if I am wrong, but, you may need to actually import a HWinfo Sensor to one of your devices before it will show up on the page you showed in your screenshot. For instance you can select the Aquaero, then go to its "Sensors" Page, then click on one of the blank "Software Sensors", then click to add a Software Sensor, then on that menu HWiNFO should DEFINITELY show up for you. Then Once you have added it to one of your Devices Software Sensors, it should start to show up for you elsewhere. I don't know for a fact that this is a requirement, but its something else for you to try. Hopefully someone more experienced then me can clarify.

*2nd Edit:* Never mind. I just went through and tried it myself. HWiNFO should absolutely show up for you on that Quick View Page. Sorry I am still a noob with this software, just doing my best to help, but my ideas are crap in this case. I would certainly try installing HWinfo, which will install the HWinfo Driver, that might help solve the issue for you, but I don't know for sure, just hoping it will. (Also, make sure to open HWinfo before opening Aquasuite, That may matter.)

Here is a screenshot of the Quick view Page on mine, and its definitely there:


Spoiler


----------



## Memmento Mori

Hi there 

I need some advice on what I need for my project.

In my CaseLabs SM8 I finally plan to slowly buy all the things I need for proper water cooling and of course with RGB… ..

In the future I will control 1x pump, 1, flow meter, 15x fan, 4x RGB led strips and 8x PHANTEKS HALOS LUX 120mm.

Planned shopping list:
aquaero 6 LT USB fan controller
https://shop.aquacomputer.de/product_inf...roducts_id=3481

OCTO fan control for PWM fans
https://shop.aquacomputer.de/product_inf...roducts_id=3832

SPLITTY9 splitter for up to 9 fans or aquabus devices
https://shop.aquacomputer.de/product_inf...roducts_id=3420

farbwerk USB, aquabus version
https://shop.aquacomputer.de/product_inf...roducts_id=3232

RGB Splitty3 including LED
https://shop.aquacomputer.de/product_inf...roducts_id=3772

Questions:
Is farbwerk USB, aquabus variant compatible with the PHANTEKS HALOS LUX 120mm.?
Is this list complete or have I forgotten something?


Any advice is welcome 

Thank you very much.


----------



## war4peace

Memmento Mori said:


> Hi there
> [snip]


You don't need the OCTO, unless you want to control each fan separately, in which case you don't need the Splitty9.

Could you please tell us how are fans going to be arranged? e.g. 3x for radiator 1, 4x for radiator 2 etc.
Also all your URLs are bad, but I looked it up and the Farbwerk you mentioned is the older product which controls non-addressable RGB LED Strips. Are you sure you want that one, instead of the newer Farbwerk 360? Same for Splitty3 - it's the non-addressable RGB extender. And finally, Phanteks Halos LUX refer to both Addressable RGB and non-addressable RGB products.

So I guess the question is: what kind of RGB do you have/need? Addressable or non-addressable?


----------



## skupples

farbwerk sure has come a long way from the 1st run version I have.


----------



## Memmento Mori

war4peace said:


> You don't need the OCTO, unless you want to control each fan separately, in which case you don't need the Splitty9.
> 
> Could you please tell us how are fans going to be arranged? e.g. 3x for radiator 1, 4x for radiator 2 etc.
> Also all your URLs are bad, but I looked it up and the Farbwerk you mentioned is the older product which controls non-addressable RGB LED Strips. Are you sure you want that one, instead of the newer Farbwerk 360? Same for Splitty3 - it's the non-addressable RGB extender. And finally, Phanteks Halos LUX refer to both Addressable RGB and non-addressable RGB products.
> 
> So I guess the question is: what kind of RGB do you have/need? Addressable or non-addressable?


Thanks for the reply and navigation.

Fan control:
6x fans same speed for the front 360 radiator (push/pull)
8x fans same speed for the upper 480 radiator (push/pull)
1x fan rear (pull)

RGB Led control:

Addressable means I can control every led in the strip, right?

I need to control 3x Halos on front, 4x upper, 1x rear and 4 strips ...

At the moment I have 3 halos for the front. If they are addressable or not I have no clue, in the manual is nothing written about it. So I would assume that they are not... 

So what I need in the end? :axesmiley

Thanks for any advice


----------



## Leonko

You dont need aquaero at all then. Get yourself OCTO. Its half price of Aquaero and you have 8 PWM channels. 6x fans to one PWM channel, 8x fans to second, 1x rear to third, and you still have place for pump and 4 slots free for future. With Aquaero you would have no more. Or you would need to buy quadro/octo to connect to aquaero if you want more PWM channels later.


----------



## InfoSeeker

Memmento Mori said:


> Hi there
> 
> I need some advice on what I need for my project.
> 
> In my CaseLabs SM8 I finally plan to slowly buy all the things I need for proper water cooling and of course with RGB… ..
> 
> In the future I will control 1x pump, 1, flow meter, 15x fan, 4x RGB led strips and 8x PHANTEKS HALOS LUX 120mm.
> 
> Planned shopping list:
> aquaero 6 LT USB fan controller
> https://shop.aquacomputer.de/product_inf...roducts_id=3481
> 
> OCTO fan control for PWM fans
> https://shop.aquacomputer.de/product_inf...roducts_id=3832
> 
> SPLITTY9 splitter for up to 9 fans or aquabus devices
> https://shop.aquacomputer.de/product_inf...roducts_id=3420
> 
> farbwerk USB, aquabus version
> https://shop.aquacomputer.de/product_inf...roducts_id=3232
> 
> RGB Splitty3 including LED
> https://shop.aquacomputer.de/product_inf...roducts_id=3772
> 
> Questions:
> Is farbwerk USB, aquabus variant compatible with the PHANTEKS HALOS LUX 120mm.?
> Is this list complete or have I forgotten something?
> 
> 
> Any advice is welcome
> 
> Thank you very much.





Leonko said:


> You dont need aquaero at all then. Get yourself OCTO. Its half price of Aquaero and you have 8 PWM channels. 6x fans to one PWM channel, 8x fans to second, 1x rear to third, and you still have place for pump and 4 slots free for future. With Aquaero you would have no more. Or you would need to buy quadro/octo to connect to aquaero if you want more PWM channels later.



This would be my suggestion also, drop the aquaero and RGB. Go for the OCTO and use RGBpx (addressable LEDs) which the OCTO has two ports for.



one OCTO
one High Flow Flow Sensor
one Farbwerk 360 (if more LED control needed)
??? Halos Lux Digital RGB Fan Frames

You do have to do your homework on the addressable Halos fan frame LEDs to see if they are controllable by the OCTO or farbwerk 360

I have a query in to aquacomputer on their forum asking if the OCTO handles PWM fans that are not Intel spec compliant.


----------



## skupples

just thinkin.... can't he drop the farbwerk as well? i thought quadro & octo handled essentially everything both aquaero+farbwerk would handle.


----------



## Kalm_Traveler

skupples said:


> just thinkin.... can't he drop the farbwerk as well? i thought quadro & octo handled essentially everything both aquaero+farbwerk would handle.


you bring up a question I have too...

bought a Quadro to be able to set RGB for these two graphics card blocks, but ended up eventually buying an Aquaero 6 a few weeks later. I don't see an RGB header on the Aquaero that matches whats on the Quadro, but I thought the AE would make the Quadro superfluous? I'd like to get rid of the Quadro since having it connected to USB it always shows up as a removable device and sometimes when disconnecting USB drives I accidentally remove the Quadro lol


----------



## oreonutz

InfoSeeker said:


> This would be my suggestion also, drop the aquaero and RGB. Go for the OCTO and use RGBpx (addressable LEDs) which the OCTO has two ports for.
> 
> 
> 
> one OCTO
> one High Flow Flow Sensor
> one Farbwerk 360 (if more LED control needed)
> ??? Halos Lux Digital RGB Fan Frames
> 
> You do have to do your homework on the addressable Halos fan frame LEDs to see if they are controllable by the OCTO or farbwerk 360
> 
> I have a query in to aquacomputer on their forum asking if the OCTO handles PWM fans that are not Intel spec compliant.


I am used to making my own wires to make the Halos Digital work with other RGB Controllers, but Its always been easy as I have always gone to the Corsair 3 Pin or Stardard 5v on Mobo's. The Quadro, even though its addressable has 4 Pins, does anybody know the pinout? I am assuming its a 5v, Ground, Data In, and Data Out, but would love to know the exact Pin Out, and how the hell you would wire up an RGB Device with no Data Out Pin. Was planning on researching this soon, but if anyone on here already knows that would be awesome!

Also, does anyone know where the hell to find an OCTO in the US? I can't find them anywhere, even AquaTuning.us doesn't have them, let alone ModMyMods, PPC, TitanRig, or Amazon. I keep buying _Quadro's_ and it seems I have bought up all of Amazon/PPCs Stock, I just went to buy a few more, and found them sold out. Would love to start getting Octo's instead of Quadro's but can't find them anywhere in North America to purchase...

Also (Regarding the new HWinfo Feature that I requested and have been beta testing), I feel like a dumb ass guys, I didn't think to check the New Aquasuite to see if they finally added a feature that we have been asking for since the release of the Quadro. I played around with the playground for a long time last night, and it is exactly what I wanted and is the exact functionality that I asked Martin to implement into HWinfo. But the HWinfo feature still has usefulness. You can now create equations with unlimited operations, I used it to Convert Pump/Fan Speed RPM's that were plugged into the Mobo to Percentages instead of RPM (100 x [Fan Speed RPM Value] ÷ [Max Fan Speed of Fan] = Fan Speed %), which clients find more useful, and I am sure there is even more this feature will be useful for, so I am glad we have it.

Appreciate everyones help!



EDIT: (_Regarding the RGBpx Pinout_) OK Now I know its possible, but I am having a hard time looking up a data sheet or Pinout for RGBpx. Have only been googling for about 5 Minutes, but haven't found a trust worthy source on that yet, but I did find this: 









https://shop.aquacomputer.de/produc...=3829&XTCsid=7u56r3ku57f51366hee91h1jvmc1eif2​
So I know its possible. I tried to figure out which pin goes to which from this picture, but it looks like thats handled inside the connector, and it looks like this is also only sold in the EU Right now. Would love if someone here knew the pin out. Going to probably grab a multimeter here in a bit and just get to testing, but need a nap first, will check on here when I wake up, if no one has posted I will check with a multi meter myself then post the pinout.


----------



## oreonutz

InfoSeeker said:


> The Playground (virtual sensors) is available without the aquaero... it is inherent to the aquasuite X. Plus the Playground will work with ANY sensor values, not just temperatures... though the final value may still need to be temperature for some devices, as for the quadro.
> 
> Edit:
> Below is a clip from aquacomputer's intro for the OCTO, and if you look at the tabs on the left side, there is no aquaero, just the OCTO.


Curious. I was just looking over your screenshot. Why the -20 Offset on the GPU? I am fascinated by the equation. I would love to know the theory behind it.


----------



## InfoSeeker

oreonutz said:


> Curious. I was just looking over your screenshot. Why the -20 Offset on the GPU? I am fascinated by the equation. I would love to know the theory behind it.



That is actually aqaucomputer's screenshot from Shoggy's introductory post for the OCTO. I'm guessing there is an inherent normal 20C Δ between the CPU & GPU that they want to equalize before it runs through the Max filter.


----------



## war4peace

Memmento Mori said:


> Thanks for the reply and navigation.
> 
> Fan control:
> 6x fans same speed for the front 360 radiator (push/pull)
> 8x fans same speed for the upper 480 radiator (push/pull)
> 1x fan rear (pull)


Push/pull helps a lot at very low fan speeds (say 500-900 RPM), beyond that the efficiency gain drops towards zero. The rear fan is totally optional, you could do without it unless you want it there for looks or something.



Memmento Mori said:


> RGB Led control:
> 
> Addressable means I can control every led in the strip, right?
> 
> I need to control 3x Halos on front, 4x upper, 1x rear and 4 strips ...
> 
> At the moment I have 3 halos for the front. If they are addressable or not I have no clue, in the manual is nothing written about it. So I would assume that they are not...
> 
> So what I need in the end? :axesmiley
> 
> Thanks for any advice


First you need to make sure you know exactly what kind of RGB the Halos have. It used to be true for RGB pinout to be 4-pin for static RGB (all LEDs same color) and 3-pin for Addressable RGB (each LED having its color), but now with RGBpx it's a bit more complicated lol.
Looking at HALO frames pictures on their webpage, I saw the RGB ones as having a 4-PIN wire and aRGB ones having a 3-PIN wire, so you will have to check the ones you have. Remember that RGB and aRGB are not interchangeable or compatible, never plug one to another.

Something else that nobody addressed, each aRGB HALO has 30 LEDs, for a total of 420 LEDs for all fan frames, and each RGB HALO has 18 LEDs, for a total of 252 LEDs. This means either a lot of addressable LEDs or a lot of power going to them (for the 12V ones) so you will probably need the splitty3 to cover all of them, depending on how many extra strips you are going to use.



skupples said:


> just thinkin.... can't he drop the farbwerk as well? i thought quadro & octo handled essentially everything both aquaero+farbwerk would handle.


Not if he has non-addressable RGB, and not if he uses that many fan frames. Remember that power to those LEDs must come from somewhere, and while each LED does not use that much power, hundreds of them will.


----------



## Memmento Mori

war4peace said:


> Push/pull helps a lot at very low fan speeds (say 500-900 RPM), beyond that the efficiency gain drops towards zero. The rear fan is totally optional, you could do without it unless you want it there for looks or something.
> 
> 
> 
> First you need to make sure you know exactly what kind of RGB the Halos have. It used to be true for RGB pinout to be 4-pin for static RGB (all LEDs same color) and 3-pin for Addressable RGB (each LED having its color), but now with RGBpx it's a bit more complicated lol.
> Looking at HALO frames pictures on their webpage, I saw the RGB ones as having a 4-PIN wire and aRGB ones having a 3-PIN wire, so you will have to check the ones you have. Remember that RGB and aRGB are not interchangeable or compatible, never plug one to another.
> 
> Something else that nobody addressed, each aRGB HALO has 30 LEDs, for a total of 420 LEDs for all fan frames, and each RGB HALO has 18 LEDs, for a total of 252 LEDs. This means either a lot of addressable LEDs or a lot of power going to them (for the 12V ones) so you will probably need the splitty3 to cover all of them, depending on how many extra strips you are going to use.
> 
> 
> 
> Not if he has non-addressable RGB, and not if he uses that many fan frames. Remember that power to those LEDs must come from somewhere, and while each LED does not use that much power, hundreds of them will.


Lor RPM is exactly the reason why i want to go with the push/pull configuration and the rear pull (out of the case) fan is more or less for aesthetic reasons....

The Halos are for sure just with 18 LEDs each so they are for sure not addressable, just static light..

As I understand I can chain them together - the 3x Front and 4x Top, then 1 rear and 4 strips.... So from my understanding I need like 7 RGB positions to be able to control all this separately....

Now the HALOS i have are with a 4pin wire, but on the farbwerk i dont see the necessary connector for it. On the Splitty 3 i see 3 of them.... 

But on the farbwerk 360
and RGBpx Splitty4 i see the 4pin header. But are the RGBpx compatible with the nonadressable LEDs? Im kinda lost in this toppic to be honest....

The Aquaaero 6 LT is ment for the whole system monitoring to have all the informations ect. so I will buy it anyway, question is what additionally I need to get it work as I plan....

Thank you for the support of everyone


----------



## InfoSeeker

Received a reply from sebastian at aquacomputer re OCTO fan controller's ability to handle non-compliant PWM fans as to the Pull-Up spec. He states the OCTO does go both ways.

sebastian:


> OCTO has for all channels a internal Pull-UP for non compliant fans.


----------



## oreonutz

InfoSeeker said:


> Received a reply from sebastian at aquacomputer re OCTO fan controller's ability to handle non-compliant PWM fans as to the Pull-Up spec. He states the OCTO does go both ways.
> 
> sebastian:


Sweet! Anyone have any info on when the Octo Supply Chain will reach the North American Market?


----------



## skupples

splitty9 is sold out on PPC... anyone have any other suggestions for a modern fan hub/splitter that'll work with my AQ6XT?


----------



## oreonutz

skupples said:


> splitty9 is sold out on PPC... anyone have any other suggestions for a modern fan hub/splitter that'll work with my AQ6XT?


Here you go brother, the shipping time sucks, I just bought these from here and it took about 7 days to get to me, although I ordered on a Friday, so if you order today, you MIGHT get it by Friday.

https://www.aquatuning.us/water-coo...accessories/23656/aquacomputer-rgbpx-splitty4

Otherwise, yes there are quite a few that work good with The Aquaero. The Phanteks _Silverstone_ One is my Favorite (as long as you don't need RGB too), It actually is in PWM Spec, so it should work nicely for you, will edit this with a Link in just a second.

*EDIT*: Sorry Man, Not Phanteks, I meant Silverstone. I use this thing often, and currently am using it right now in this build I am typing to you on, to split to my Push/Pull Fans on both of my 280 Rads, and it works great. The Silverstone Hub plugs into One of the Ports on the Aquaero. 

Link: https://www.amazon.com/SilverStone-Technology-Silverstone-Splitter-SST-CPF04-USA/dp/B07N3HP8S5/ref=

*EDIT 2:* @skupples If you are using 3 Pin Fans, then add this Phobya to the Mix, and will work great. You Still Plug The Silverstone Directly to the Aquaero, Then You Plug This _Phobya_ into the First Port of the Silverstone (VERY IMPORTANT), and then plug your First DC Fan into The 3 Pin Port on the Phobya. Now the rest of your fans can go onto the rest of the ports on the Silverstone. This will correctly Report the RPM to The Aquaero, and correctly control all of your Fans. I use this Very Method On Quadro's as well for when I need to split out to DC Fans, and even though the Aquaero has DC Fan Control, the DC Fan Splitters on the Market are not so great, so this has worked perfectly for me. Hope this helps.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01HQBNXYK/ref=

*EDIT 3: (Hopefully the last Edit)* :doh: I just realized I linked to the Splitty 4 and you need the Splitty 9. Here is the Link to that @skupples: 
https://www.aquatuning.us/air-cooli...-splitter-for-up-to-9-fans-or-aquabus-devices

I know I type a lot, but I hope you (and hopefully others as well) find this useful...


----------



## iamjanco

I have two of the older ones that I bought back before AC started putting rubber boots on them I could mail you. The plastic's been coming off the back, but that's easily fixed with some 3M sticky stuff.


----------



## jvillaveces

skupples said:


> splitty9 is sold out on PPC... anyone have any other suggestions for a modern fan hub/splitter that'll work with my AQ6XT?


In my latest build I used one Aquacomputer RGBpx Splitty4 Board 4-Way Splitter for each radiator. They let you centralize fan and RGB control so that only two cables leave the splitter, one for fan control and the other for rgbpx. If you're not interested in RGB fans, the modmytoys 4 way pwm splitter has worked great for years.
EDIT: I have also had great luck with the aerocool pwm splitter


----------



## skupples

blaaaah

so in short, very little has changed.

thanks! 

guess I'll wait on more splitties. 

I run 33 AP15s via 4x 480s + case flow. I'd run all of them from one tach signal if I could, but wiring never allows for it.


----------



## oreonutz

skupples said:


> blaaaah
> 
> so in short, very little has changed.
> 
> thanks!
> 
> guess I'll wait on more splitties.
> 
> I run 33 AP15s via 4x 480s + case flow. I'd run all of them from one tach signal if I could, but wiring never allows for it.


Don't want to grab them from Aquatuning.us? The wait time sucks, but its generally a week at worst, will get to you quicker then it will take PPC to restock them, most likely...

In case you missed my Link:
https://www.aquatuning.us/air-cooli...-splitter-for-up-to-9-fans-or-aquabus-devices


----------



## skupples

yeaaaaaah. 

not too worried about it. I have a growing list of things for next time, this is one of them. At least BLITZ was in stock!

My original (classic) MMT PCB fan hubs burned out, same for the Phobya "harness" so I switched to these BP SATA powered hubs, which don't match up with AQ's PWM implementation, so they're always on, 100%. 

the real solution here is lots of time making custom lengths of wire for every single fan, so they can all reach to one central hub that feeds back to AQXT6.


----------



## oreonutz

skupples said:


> yeaaaaaah.
> 
> not too worried about it. I have a growing list of things for next time, this is one of them. At least BLITZ was in stock!
> 
> My original (classic) MMT PCB fan hubs burned out, same for the Phobya "harness" so I switched to these BP SATA powered hubs, which don't match up with AQ's PWM implementation, so they're always on, 100%.
> 
> the real solution here is lots of time making custom lengths of wire for every single fan, so they can all reach to one central hub that feeds back to AQXT6.


I feel the pain. As long as you are rocking PWM Fans, you can't go wrong with the SIlverstone one I linked. Its 8 Ports total, that go at the Same RPM as the Fan you plug into the 1st Port on the Silverstone, It works even with the Aquaero, its what I use. Of course I only have 8 Fans on it, not 392 or whatever crazy number of fans that you have (LOL), but it does work well with the Aquaero. So there are options.


----------



## InfoSeeker

skupples said:


> splitty9 is sold out on PPC... anyone have any other suggestions for a modern fan hub/splitter that'll work with my AQ6XT?



ModMyMods has the Splitty9 in stock and the Splitty9 Active on preorder.

Spltty9 Active has built-in Pull-Up for Intel PWM spec fail fans.


----------



## Bartdude

skupples said:


> yeaaaaaah.
> 
> not too worried about it. I have a growing list of things for next time, this is one of them. At least BLITZ was in stock!
> 
> My original (classic) MMT PCB fan hubs burned out, same for the Phobya "harness" so I switched to these BP SATA powered hubs, which don't match up with AQ's PWM implementation, so they're always on, 100%.
> 
> the real solution here is lots of time making custom lengths of wire for every single fan, so they can all reach to one central hub that feeds back to AQXT6.



Not sure if you know or not but the new Active splitty and the new Octo have PWM pull up for non compliant fans


----------



## Kimir

Amazon maybe... I see "Only 3 left in stock", "Sold by Performance-PCs and Fulfilled by Amazon."


----------



## skupples

Bartdude said:


> Not sure if you know or not but the new Active splitty and the new Octo have PWM pull up for non compliant fans


yep, took em long enough to build their own DivaDapter  i don't need it though. AP15s are 3 pin. I'd love for someone to actually explain why the BP SATA powered device doesn't work. someone may have already, and I'm just not remembering. 

and yep, I cleaned out modmymods last night. My only problem with Splitty is no external power source. I don't like driving all these fans from the unit.


----------



## MaratRussian

Hi, has anybody managed to get Vision to work with third party IR remote (such as a tv or AVR remote)?


----------



## Moose-Tech

I just tried using the new "Playground" feature on both my Aquaero 6LT and my Quadro. 
The 'playground' virtual sensor for the most part follows along with my Aquaero virtual Delta sensor, sometimes lagging just a little behind. 

Then I tried it out on my air cooled rig controlled by a Quadro. 
I was able to successfully configure my intake/exhaust fan curves to run off the delta from the front intake and the internal case temp (the only 2 temp sensors I added).
What this means is that the Quadro can now be successfully used by itself to control a water cooling loop by ambient to loop delta. 
You gotta love AquaComputer. This should bring more people into the AC family with a cheaper alternative to other fan controllers.

Sweet!


----------



## oreonutz

Moose-Tech said:


> I just tried using the new "Playground" feature on both my Aquaero 6LT and my Quadro.
> The 'playground' virtual sensor for the most part follows along with my Aquaero virtual Delta sensor, sometimes lagging just a little behind.
> 
> Then I tried it out on my air cooled rig controlled by a Quadro.
> I was able to successfully configure my intake/exhaust fan curves to run off the delta from the front intake and the internal case temp (the only 2 temp sensors I added).
> What this means is that the Quadro can now be successfully used by itself to control a water cooling loop by ambient to loop delta.
> You gotta love AquaComputer. This should bring more people into the AC family with a cheaper alternative to other fan controllers.
> 
> Sweet!


YuP! I discovered this after I talked Martin into building the feature into HWinfo for us, so that we could use the Quadro to do this. Then @InfoSeeker pointed me to this new Playground feature, I hadn't bothered updating to the new Version yet so I hadn't seen it. So I upgraded, and its EXACTLY what we have been wanting for years. I have already started using it in multiple builds and it works great!

For my Linux and Server Builds, also for Mission Critical Workstations, the Aquaero is still the way to go, simply because your curves can all be saved to the memory on the device and all your fans will work properly no matter the state of the system, or which OS you are booted off of. But for the systems that spend all of their times in Windows, and its no problem for the Aquaero Service to be running, this works great, and I love Aquacomputer for building it in for us.

Also HWinfo also now has this ability as well, so for other companies USB Fan Controllers, that allow you to input sensors from HWinfo, you now can use it to create a Delta T Sensor now as well, so options for Enthusiasts have never been better!


----------



## Aenra

Context:
Aquasuite from early.. mid 2017 (i think, maybe even earlier) installed, i registered an AQ6 XT plus two Quadros, updated firmware, sorted my stuff out, saved it on the device, uninstalled Aquasuite, never bothered with it again.

If i were to download it now from their website and reinstall it, would it mess with my settings? Given it's been Lord knows how many versions since then? I can't find my exported file, or i wouldn't be asking


----------



## skupples

there's always the option to carry over.

how old is the device? aquasuite serial expires after like 5 years.


----------



## Aenra

I'm not gonna take things apart to find out, but probably around 3 years old 
And i don't need a newer version either, i don't do tables or deltas or any of this really; just want to modify some basic stuff without re-doing it all from scratch. Or, should losing everything be an actual risk, know in advance so that i plan it during a w/end you know?
It won't allow me the X.. whatever version, missed the upgrade window as i wasn't interested, it will probably default me to something earlier, but even so, it's software. If not the same version, anything goes.

* i used to blame A/C for having over-complicated everything; and then i read some more of your [plural] posts, lol, and i understood the blame lied elsewhere.


----------



## 414347

You know that at some point with "major" Aquasuite update there is a mandatory firmware upgrade of your devices and am sure that you are aware, once you proceed, there is no going back and that's where things can get ugly. If you happy with things as they are now I would stick with it or you might have nothing but big mess and you could potentially end up with very unhappy results


----------



## skupples

Aenra said:


> I'm not gonna take things apart to find out, but probably around 3 years old
> And i don't need a newer version either, i don't do tables or deltas or any of this really; just want to modify some basic stuff without re-doing it all from scratch. Or, should losing everything be an actual risk, know in advance so that i plan it during a w/end you know?
> It won't allow me the X.. whatever version, missed the upgrade window as i wasn't interested, it will probably default me to something earlier, but even so, it's software. If not the same version, anything goes.
> 
> * i used to blame A/C for having over-complicated everything; and then i read some more of your [plural] posts, lol, and i understood the blame lied elsewhere.


eventually, you're forced to come up to date, when you're forced to re-license. otherwise, you can stay where you are.

every aquasuite update tends to include firmware. 

settings should be retained either way.


----------



## Aenra

Thank you both very much, though unless i'm missing something here i'm, again, uninterested in re-licensing; what i had was fine, was only after modifying my original settings; i'll see if i can dig up what version i run back then and whether i can find it somewhere; if not.. am leaning towards Newuser16's perspective, lol, so expecting some w/end adventures


----------



## alesroki

*D5 pump connectoed to PWM connector on Aquaero 6*

Anybody actually tried connecting a standard D5 PWM pump to one of the two connectors marked PWM on the Aquaero 6?

Usually D5 pumps (in my case from EKWB) with PWM support split the power part to a molex 4 pin and the PWM part to a 4pin fan plug.

I cannot find any reliable and definite answer if it's possible to just change the 4 pin fan plug with the one from aquacomputer and use one of the two connectors marked PWM on the Aquaero 6.

What I'm worried about is the 12V output on one of the pins. From what I found the PWM sigal is usually 5v.

P.S.: And yes before anybody asks, I know I can connect the pump to the fan connectors and yes it works (it's setup like this right now) but using the two PWM connectors would allow me to remove on fan spliter and make the cable management much tighter.


----------



## Shawnb99

alesroki said:


> Anybody actually tried connecting a standard D5 PWM pump to one of the two connectors marked PWM on the Aquaero 6?
> 
> 
> 
> Usually D5 pumps (in my case from EKWB) with PWM support split the power part to a molex 4 pin and the PWM part to a 4pin fan plug.
> 
> 
> 
> I cannot find any reliable and definite answer if it's possible to just change the 4 pin fan plug with the one from aquacomputer and use one of the two connectors marked PWM on the Aquaero 6.
> 
> 
> 
> What I'm worried about is the 12V output on one of the pins. From what I found the PWM sigal is usually 5v.
> 
> 
> 
> P.S.: And yes before anybody asks, I know I can connect the pump to the fan connectors and yes it works (it's setup like this right now) but using the two PWM connectors would allow me to remove on fan spliter and make the cable management much tighter.




No you can’t use that connection

From the manual


Connector “PWM 1/2”
Pulse width modulated 12 V outputs, maximum current load 1 A, carrier fre- quency 15 kHz. Suitable for example for 12 V LEDs, not compatible with PWM fans or pumps.


----------



## alesroki

Shawnb99 said:


> No you can’t use that connection
> 
> From the manual
> 
> 
> Connector “PWM 1/2”
> Pulse width modulated 12 V outputs, maximum current load 1 A, carrier fre- quency 15 kHz. Suitable for example for 12 V LEDs, not compatible with PWM fans or pumps.


Hi. 

First of all thank you for you reply.

I know what the manual says. But on the Aquacomputer forum I also found some information that that's only because it's just a 2-pin connector without the power part and to avoid confusion the manual says you cannot connect a fan or pump to it. But since pump uses a separate molex 4-pin for the power that should not be a problem. 

The only problem I can see is the 12V output being to much for the pump to handle.

So I'm really looking for some real world experience and not what the manual says.


----------



## GTXJackBauer

IIRC, they warned not to connect anything other than LEDs otherwise you risk damaging your controller and pump possibly.


----------



## iamjanco

alesroki said:


> Hi.
> 
> First of all thank you for you reply.
> 
> I know what the manual says. But on the Aquacomputer forum I also found some information that that's only because it's just a 2-pin connector without the power part and to avoid confusion the manual says you cannot connect a fan or pump to it. But since pump uses a separate molex 4-pin for the power that should not be a problem.
> 
> The only problem I can see is the 12V output being to much for the pump to handle.
> 
> So *I'm really looking for some real world experience and not what the manual says.*


The *latest PWM spec for fans* (4-Wire Pulse Width Modulation
(PWM) Controlled Fans, v1.3, Sept 2005) states:









While implementation of that spec by different manufacturers has varied in some ways across PWM fans and pumps, I suspect the only real world experience you might come across will have to do with someone who burned something up trying to use the PWM connectors on the Aquaero to control either their fans and/or pumps without adhering to those specifications.

Good luck though *finding such an example*.


----------



## sakete

Alright, received the Aquaero 6 LT today (I plan on finding a spot somewhere in my case to mount it, didn't need the display version) and will try to set it up tonight. For now I'll just be controlling a bunch of fans with it as my system is air-cooled currently (but I'll go the watercooling route later this year).

Besides the manual, are there any good resources that will help with getting the Aquaero and Aquasuite configured well?

And when I want to mount an external temperature sensor, what would be the best spot for it? Just outside the case in front? Side? Rear? Top?


----------



## iamjanco

@Barefooter put together a really nice guide here:

*Aquaero & Aquasuite Software Setup Guide*


----------



## war4peace

sakete said:


> And when I want to mount an external temperature sensor, what would be the best spot for it? Just outside the case in front? Side? Rear? Top?


On all my builds I have placed the flat sensor tip just in front of the radiator fans air intake. If the fans are in pull mode, I placed it at the bottom front of the case, making sure air doesn't go over it from the inside of the case.


----------



## sakete

Alright, got my Aquaero 6 LT installed. Nothing like double sided adhesive to stick it to an empty SSD frame. (case is Phanteks Enthoo 719/Luxe 2)


----------



## d0mmie

Question regarding using 2 x Quadro in the same system:

I have two Quadros and for my updated water cooling build I plan on using dual D5 pumps in serial, having each pump being controlled by one Quadro with their own water temp sensor as well for redundancy. As I've never actually tried doing this, I do wonder if the software will support this kind of control, or could their be potential conflicts?


----------



## InfoSeeker

d0mmie said:


> Question regarding using 2 x Quadro in the same system:
> 
> I have two Quadros and for my updated water cooling build I plan on using dual D5 pumps in serial, having each pump being controlled by one Quadro with their own water temp sensor as well for redundancy. As I've never actually tried doing this, I do wonder if the software will support this kind of control, or could their be potential conflicts?



You would be fine... each Quadro will have it's own tab in the aquasuite, and will be fully independent.
You will be able to see the sensors from the other Quadro, or HWiNFO, using the 8 Soft.Sensors if desired.

But 2 pumps in serial being controlled by separate sources?
I would suggest a virtual sensor that takes the highest temp and use that to drive both pumps from 1 curve.

But personally I would use either a flow sensor or a Preset Curve to drive the pumps, not temperature.


----------



## war4peace

d0mmie said:


> Question regarding using 2 x Quadro in the same system:
> 
> I have two Quadros and for my updated water cooling build I plan on using dual D5 pumps in serial, having each pump being controlled by one Quadro with their own water temp sensor as well for redundancy. As I've never actually tried doing this, I do wonder if the software will support this kind of control, or could their be potential conflicts?


It is possible, but I fail to see why would you want to do that.
I have 2x pumps in series, controlled by an Aquaero 6 LT, and both pumps are connected to the Aquaero, each to its own PWM connector. There is redundancy, I can see both pumps' speeds, etc.


----------



## oreonutz

So I had a weird experience last night with a New Aquaero 6 LT That I was installing into a client build that I previously had a Quadro in. In this system, I had easily upgraded the Firmware on The Quadro because I had intended on keeping the Quadro in the system at the time, I was just updating it to get the new Playground Feature, so I could create a curve based on Delta T instead of a CPU Average Temp that I had been using previously. Unfortunately after upgrading the firmware on the Quadro, it stopped working properly with the DC Fans that I had on the Radiator. I know the Quadro isn't meant to work with Voltage controlled fans, but I had actually installed a Phobya PWM to DC Converter, which takes the DC Signal and Converts it to PWM, and when plugging that PWM signal into the 1st PWM Header on the Fractal Design Fan Controller that comes with the R6, and then plug the PWM Cable from the Fractal Controller into the Quadro, that has always worked in the past for me to control DC's Fans. A bit convoluted, but its just a method I used with the tools I had on hand at the time, which worked to control the fans from 1% to 100%. Then for some reason after I updated the Quadro's Firmware, it still worked, but instead of being able to slow the fans all the way to stop by putting them at 1% like I had before (0% would stop the signal from going to the Phobya Controller and cause the fans to spin up to 100%) I now only had the range to control my DC fans from 1200RPM to 1450RPM which was their max speed.

I finally decided I wanted to implement a better alarm system into this build any way, since this is only a 1 Pump System, so I took the Quadro out completely, and replaced it with an Aquaero 6 LT that I already had in stock. I plugged the Aquaero into the exact same USB Header that the Quadro had been plugged into. But for some reason, when updating the firmware, it would refuse to take.

It looked like it was flashing normally, just like every Aquaero I had flashed in the past. It backed up the settings, and then within about 45 seconds it went from 0% to 100%, and then gave the restarting Aquasuite Dialog Box. So there was NO ERROR whatsoever, at all. It looked like it flashed just fine. Except for I would close the dialog box, wait for the fans to kick back in, then open Aquasuite and the Firmware was still the same, 2102, which of course won't work with Aquasuite X.11.

Of course I tried Resetting the computer, I tried switching my mouse back to the 125hz Polling rate. I tried unplugging the normal mouse and keyboard altogether and just plugging in a standard stock cheap Dell Mouse and Keyboard that comes with their pre-builts. I tried switching the USB Header I plugged into, I tried unplugging all USB Devices together, I tried Jumping Temperature Sensor 8 together to reset the Aquaero, I tried removing Power from the PC altogether, I tried reinstalling Aquasuite, I even made a cable to connect the Aquaero directly to a back USB2.0 and 3.0 Port, in case their was some issue with noise on the Mobo that was causing my problems, and NON of this fixed the issue. 

Whats weird is this computer had literally no issue whatsoever in the same exact configuration just hours before successfully flashing the Quadro. Obviously the problem was something with the USB implementation on the Crosshair VI Hero that was causing my issue, I just am unsure what exactly the problem was, and why it didn't effect the Quadro, especially after I booted up to a different Hard Drive and installed Aquasuite Fresh, and it STILL refused to properly upgrade.

I finally gave up trying to figure out what the issue with the PC was, and just took that cable I made that plugged into the header on the Aquaero, and was a USB A on the other side, connected it to a 6 Foot USB Extension Cable, and then plugged that into my HP Proliant Server that is in the Rack not far from my Work Bench that I was working on. I left the power connected from the PC I was installing it into, I just plugged the USB into the Front Header on my Server, installed Aquasuite directly onto my server, and then performed the firmware upgrade from there, and that worked first try. Then I plugged it back into the normal USB Header on the client PC, and it was all smooth sailing from there. But this is somewhere around the 10th Aquaero I have installing in the last year since I started using them more often, and this was the first time I had this issue. I knew to try some of the the other things I tried because of posts on the forum for 2015 and before with similar issues, but ultimately the only thing that worked for me was physically plugging it into another PC.

The other weird thing is I use an Aquaero in 2 other Crosshair VI Hero Builds, and both of those had no issues upgrading firmware, and this same PC had no issues at all upgrading the firmware of a Quadro literally just a few hours before. So I am not sure what caused this particular issue, but it was elusive.

Figured i would chime in and explain my experience in case anyone has an explanation for why this might happen, and to let people know that if this happens to you, just plugging it into a different PC and upgrading the firmware from there seems to be a way around this issue. Thank You!


----------



## sultanofswing

Got a question. Been using my 6xt for a while now and love it and have set my fan curves up via delta to ambient. I currently use PWM Fans on my Radiators but had a question regarding the fan settings for some other fans that I am playing around with.
How do I go about setting up a fan to use as "Speed Controlled"?
Obviously the PWM fans have to be PWM Controlled but if I connect a 3 pin fan and select RPM Controlled it never works I have to select power controlled.


----------



## skupples

d0mmie said:


> Question regarding using 2 x Quadro in the same system:
> 
> I have two Quadros and for my updated water cooling build I plan on using dual D5 pumps in serial, having each pump being controlled by one Quadro with their own water temp sensor as well for redundancy. As I've never actually tried doing this, I do wonder if the software will support this kind of control, or could their be potential conflicts?


i wonde if that'll allow you finite enough control to eliminate any speed wobbles that exist from slight variance in tolerances between units.


----------



## oreonutz

sultanofswing said:


> Got a question. Been using my 6xt for a while now and love it and have set my fan curves up via delta to ambient. I currently use PWM Fans on my Radiators but had a question regarding the fan settings for some other fans that I am playing around with.
> How do I go about setting up a fan to use as "Speed Controlled"?
> Obviously the PWM fans have to be PWM Controlled but if I connect a 3 pin fan and select RPM Controlled it never works I have to select power controlled.


I think I may misunderstand the question, not sure.

Do you mean you want to create a fan curve for your DC Fans (3 Pin Fans) the same as you created a curve for your other fans?

If so, you just set it to be "Power Controlled" on the "Fans" Page, and then go to the "Controllers" Page, add a new Controller, select that fan, the source, and then create your curve.

Hopefully I understood what you were asking correctly.


----------



## sakete

Is there a way to control the RPM signal that gets sent to the CPU fan header on the motherboard from the Aquaero? It appears that currently it sends a 100% signal, but I'd prefer to control it.

And also is there a way to control fans off of an average temperature? Currently when my CPU spikes it immediately spins up the fans, then spins them back down yet (it's currently all air-cooled). Ideally it would take an average, smoothing out any temporary spikes.


----------



## oreonutz

sakete said:


> Is there a way to control the RPM signal that gets sent to the CPU fan header on the motherboard from the Aquaero? It appears that currently it sends a 100% signal, but I'd prefer to control it.
> 
> And also is there a way to control fans off of an average temperature? Currently when my CPU spikes it immediately spins up the fans, then spins them back down yet (it's currently all air-cooled). Ideally it would take an average, smoothing out any temporary spikes.


With regards to your first question, I am not sure, I have never tried to change the signal sent. I am pretty sure I saw multiple ways to do it, but someone else would be better to answer this question than I.



Spoiler



As far as your 2nd question, yes there are multiple ways. I had set up a Clients PC recently with a Quadro, but you can do the same with the Aquaero, and unfortunately this was an Alienware PC the Client had purchased against our recommendation, and then asked me to tune it for their workload. (Clients...) So to get to the point, I ended up putting a Quadro in it to control the fans, because the Alienware doesn't allow you to control the fans in BIOS, and their Windows software was so buggy and crappy, and didn't work most of the time. Unfortunately the computer was also being cooled with an AIO, I am actually swapping it out for a custom loop next week, but because I didn't have a sensor inside the AIO, I decided to just create the fan curve based on the CPU Temp.

What I did was use the New Playground feature to create an Average Temperature over 120 Seconds for the Hottest Core (Core Max) I called it Temp X. Then I added in an average function, and set it to average Temp X against The Actual Core Max Temperature, and I created my Curve around that. What this did was Give me a Nice Smooth Increase in Fan Speed when the Temperatures Ramped up and stayed up, but because it was also being averaged against the actual temperature, when the temperature would fall, fan speed would decrease sooner, but still on a nice slow curve. This worked well for me because this PC is being used for a lot of Render Work, so its frequently at 100 Percent Workload, so over time It would push the fans up to the Higher end of the curve, but at a gradual slow increase so the increase in noise wasn't so sudden, and for transient loads it wouldn't ramp up and down, if the CPU Spiked to 85c for 10 Seconds, and then went back to its normal 40c, the Fan Speed wouldn't increase at all, or at least in a way that was audible.

This is easy to do in the Playground section of Aquasuite X. You Simply create a new Sensor, name it and select a Unit of measurement, in this case "C". Then Click the Plus Sign. If you want to create an Average over time, select the "Filters" section then choose x=Avg(t). Then Once it adds that, select the Plus again, this time Select Source, and choose the Temperature that you want to average, whether that is Core Max, or Package Temperature, or if On Ryzen then tDie. Then all you have to do is connect the Temperature you just imported's output to the Average Function's Input. Then Double click on the Average Function, and that will bring up its settings, and you can choose the time in seconds that you would like it to average the temperature over. The longer you make the time frame, the longer it will take for the fans to respond. The Downside to this is that if you do end up having a heavy load on your computer for longer then the time you selected, then even after the load ends, your fans will stay at the higher speed longer. This is why I added in the second average function, this really smoothed things out for me. (And with all the tools Aquaero and the Aquasuite software gives you, there is probably even a better way to do this, this is just what I came up with on the fly).

To add in the Next Average function, click the plus again, and this time select "Functions" and then the last option which is x=avg(A,B}. Then All You Need to do is connect a second output from your Current Temperature to the "A" Input on the new Function you just added, and then Connect the Output of your Average Over Time Function to the "B" Input. Now just connect the output of that to the input of the "OUT" sensor, and you now have an Average Temperature that will help smooth out your fan curve.

Here is an Example of what this looks like in Aquasuite @sakete











Now just select this Temperature as your source when creating your fan curve, and you are good to go. Also experiment, you may be able to find a different way that works better for you, these functions are incredibly powerful in what they allow. I hope this helps, Good Luck!


----------



## sultanofswing

oreonutz said:


> I think I may misunderstand the question, not sure.
> 
> Do you mean you want to create a fan curve for your DC Fans (3 Pin Fans) the same as you created a curve for your other fans?
> 
> If so, you just set it to be "Power Controlled" on the "Fans" Page, and then go to the "Controllers" Page, add a new Controller, select that fan, the source, and then create your curve.
> 
> Hopefully I understood what you were asking correctly.



Sorta yes and no, Think I kinda figured it out and to me the "Speed Control" checkbox isn't really good for anything as you cannot create a Curve based on speed anyway.


----------



## sakete

oreonutz said:


> With regards to your first question, I am not sure, I have never tried to change the signal sent. I am pretty sure I saw multiple ways to do it, but someone else would be better to answer this question than I.
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler
> 
> 
> 
> As far as your 2nd question, yes there are multiple ways. I had set up a Clients PC recently with a Quadro, but you can do the same with the Aquaero, and unfortunately this was an Alienware PC the Client had purchased against our recommendation, and then asked me to tune it for their workload. (Clients...) So to get to the point, I ended up putting a Quadro in it to control the fans, because the Alienware doesn't allow you to control the fans in BIOS, and their Windows software was so buggy and crappy, and didn't work most of the time. Unfortunately the computer was also being cooled with an AIO, I am actually swapping it out for a custom loop next week, but because I didn't have a sensor inside the AIO, I decided to just create the fan curve based on the CPU Temp.
> 
> What I did was use the New Playground feature to create an Average Temperature over 120 Seconds for the Hottest Core (Core Max) I called it Temp X. Then I added in an average function, and set it to average Temp X against The Actual Core Max Temperature, and I created my Curve around that. What this did was Give me a Nice Smooth Increase in Fan Speed when the Temperatures Ramped up and stayed up, but because it was also being averaged against the actual temperature, when the temperature would fall, fan speed would decrease sooner, but still on a nice slow curve. This worked well for me because this PC is being used for a lot of Render Work, so its frequently at 100 Percent Workload, so over time It would push the fans up to the Higher end of the curve, but at a gradual slow increase so the increase in noise wasn't so sudden, and for transient loads it wouldn't ramp up and down, if the CPU Spiked to 85c for 10 Seconds, and then went back to its normal 40c, the Fan Speed wouldn't increase at all, or at least in a way that was audible.
> 
> This is easy to do in the Playground section of Aquasuite X. You Simply create a new Sensor, name it and select a Unit of measurement, in this case "C". Then Click the Plus Sign. If you want to create an Average over time, select the "Filters" section then choose x=Avg(t). Then Once it adds that, select the Plus again, this time Select Source, and choose the Temperature that you want to average, whether that is Core Max, or Package Temperature, or if On Ryzen then tDie. Then all you have to do is connect the Temperature you just imported's output to the Average Function's Input. Then Double click on the Average Function, and that will bring up its settings, and you can choose the time in seconds that you would like it to average the temperature over. The longer you make the time frame, the longer it will take for the fans to respond. The Downside to this is that if you do end up having a heavy load on your computer for longer then the time you selected, then even after the load ends, your fans will stay at the higher speed longer. This is why I added in the second average function, this really smoothed things out for me. (And with all the tools Aquaero and the Aquasuite software gives you, there is probably even a better way to do this, this is just what I came up with on the fly).
> 
> To add in the Next Average function, click the plus again, and this time select "Functions" and then the last option which is x=avg(A,B}. Then All You Need to do is connect a second output from your Current Temperature to the "A" Input on the new Function you just added, and then Connect the Output of your Average Over Time Function to the "B" Input. Now just connect the output of that to the input of the "OUT" sensor, and you now have an Average Temperature that will help smooth out your fan curve.
> 
> Here is an Example of what this looks like in Aquasuite @sakete
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now just select this Temperature as your source when creating your fan curve, and you are good to go. Also experiment, you may be able to find a different way that works better for you, these functions are incredibly powerful in what they allow. I hope this helps, Good Luck!


Very cool! Thanks for the detailed explanation. I just created that virtual software sensor. Couldn't figure out how to add it to the controller section, but then after playing around I saw that I needed to link it to a Software Sensor in the Sensors section, and then I could add that sensor to the controller.

Very powerful feature, will come in handy once I've done my first watercooling build. I like that I can create a rules-based sensor.


----------



## oreonutz

sakete said:


> Very cool! Thanks for the detailed explanation. I just created that virtual software sensor. Couldn't figure out how to add it to the controller section, but then after playing around I saw that I needed to link it to a Software Sensor in the Sensors section, and then I could add that sensor to the controller.
> 
> Very powerful feature, will come in handy once I've done my first watercooling build. I like that I can create a rules-based sensor.


NP! Glad to help! I know its insane what you can do with the Aquaero and Aquasuite. It still blows my mind! Sorry, I forgot to detail the part about adding it to a software sensor before importing it, but I am glad you figured it out. How is the curve working for you? Not ramping up so sudden any more?


----------



## sakete

oreonutz said:


> NP! Glad to help! I know its insane what you can do with the Aquaero and Aquasuite. It still blows my mind! Sorry, I forgot to detail the part about adding it to a software sensor before importing it, but I am glad you figured it out. How is the curve working for you? Not ramping up so sudden any more?


Yeah, it's much more gentle. I mainly wanted to eliminate the fans from spinning up when there's a 2 second temperature spike, so I'm averaging the temp over 30 seconds and then averaging again with the real-time temperature, which works well so far. Will probably end up tweaking it a little.

So, are all these settings now stored in the actual Aquaero in hardware, or will Aquasuite always need to be running in the background to get this to work correctly?


----------



## GTXJackBauer

sakete said:


> Yeah, it's much more gentle. I mainly wanted to eliminate the fans from spinning up when there's a 2 second temperature spike, so I'm averaging the temp over 30 seconds and then averaging again with the real-time temperature, which works well so far. Will probably end up tweaking it a little.
> 
> So, are all these settings now stored in the actual Aquaero in hardware, or will Aquasuite always need to be running in the background to get this to work correctly?


If this is under the Aquaero tab, a little symbol shows up next to the text. If you click on it, it will save it to the controller's memory.

Also, make sure to save the profiles and possibly make a backup on another drive.


----------



## sakete

GTXJackBauer said:


> If this is under the Aquaero tab, a little symbol shows up next to the text. If you click on it, it will save it to the controller's memory.
> 
> Also, make sure to save the profiles and possibly make a backup on another drive.


I'm not seeing any symbols showing up next to any text that will allow me to save these settings onto the controller's memory. I'm on the Aquaero > Controllers tab where I have a set a couple of fan curves.


----------



## sultanofswing

sakete said:


> I'm not seeing any symbols showing up next to any text that will allow me to save these settings onto the controller's memory. I'm on the Aquaero > Controllers tab where I have a set a couple of fan curves.


When you make a change if you pay attention to the tab of your Aquaero you will see a Little Save Icon show up. I've clicked it a few times but personally I was under the assumption that it automatically saves it anyway.


----------



## oreonutz

sakete said:


> I'm not seeing any symbols showing up next to any text that will allow me to save these settings onto the controller's memory. I'm on the Aquaero > Controllers tab where I have a set a couple of fan curves.


So In this case, one of the numbers you used in your calculations, is likely not a number derived from the Aquaero itself, and instead is likely imported from either the Mobo or HWinfo, depending on which Core Temperature you used in your equation. In this event, while Aquasuite itself would not need to be open, the Aquasuite Service would need to be run in the background, and the USB Cable will need to be plugged into the board, with Windows Booted, in order for that Average Calculation to be run, simply because the Temperature you imported to derive your Average from, is a "Software Temp" which is not something native to the Aquaero. 

So in this case, for instance if you were to boot into Linux, your fan curve would not work, because you would not have access to the CPU Temp for the calculation to proceed.

You can however get around this, simply by placing your own Temperature probes in the system, Maybe one at Intake and another at Exhaust, and then run your Curve based on that differential. In that case all Information is Native to the Aquaero, it does not need any Third Party service to input a Temperature from, and in that case your Curve will work after programmed, even if you unplugged the USB from the Unit, and booted to Linux.

I hope this helps.


----------



## sakete

oreonutz said:


> So In this case, one of the numbers you used in your calculations, is likely not a number derived from the Aquaero itself, and instead is likely imported from either the Mobo or HWinfo, depending on which Core Temperature you used in your equation. In this event, while Aquasuite itself would not need to be open, the Aquasuite Service would need to be run in the background, and the USB Cable will need to be plugged into the board, with Windows Booted, in order for that Average Calculation to be run, simply because the Temperature you imported to derive your Average from, is a "Software Temp" which is not something native to the Aquaero.
> 
> So in this case, for instance if you were to boot into Linux, your fan curve would not work, because you would not have access to the CPU Temp for the calculation to proceed.
> 
> You can however get around this, simply by placing your own Temperature probes in the system, Maybe one at Intake and another at Exhaust, and then run your Curve based on that differential. In that case all Information is Native to the Aquaero, it does not need any Third Party service to input a Temperature from, and in that case your Curve will work after programmed, even if you unplugged the USB from the Unit, and booted to Linux.
> 
> I hope this helps.


That makes perfect sense. Thanks. I don't run a dual-boot config with Linux on my desktop, only on my laptop, so overall not really an issue.


----------



## mgoldb2

I just want to confirm that there should be no issues with my planned setup using a Aquaero 6 XT

Relevant equipment
Case THW10 with pedestal
Top of Case 8 140 mm fans connected to a SilverStone Technology Silverstone 8-Port PWM Fan hub
Pedestal 8 140 mm fans connected to a SilverStone Technology Silverstone 8-Port PWM Fan hub
Front of case 4 140 mm fans connected to a SilverStone Technology Silverstone 8-Port PWM Fan hub

Aquacomputer aquaero 6 XT 
Aquacomputer aquabus Y-cable 4-Pin
Aquacomputer aquabus cable 4-Pin x2

Separate GPU and CPU loop 

CPU Loop
Aquacomputer temperature sensor inline G1/4 X2
Aquacomputer flow rate sensor "high flow USB" G1/4

GPU Loop
Aquacomputer temperature sensor inline G1/4 X2
Aquacomputer flow rate sensor "high flow USB" G1/4

My Planned setup

The 3 Fan hubs connected to Fans 1-3 on the Aquacomputer aquaero 6 XT 
4 temperature sensor connected to the Aquacomputer aquaero 6 XT 

Finally this the part I want to make sure i get the process right

1. I connected both my Flow Controller through USB to change there ID's to be different
2. At this point I can disconnect the USB and no longer need to connect the Flow Controller to motherboard but instead use the high Aquabus on the Aquacomputer aquaero 6 XT 
3. Connect aquabus Y-cable 4-Pin to Aquacomputer aquaero 6 XT then use the aquabus cable 4-Pin to connect both the flow sensors to the Y-cable.

Anything that wont work with this setup?


----------



## JasonMorris

if you can leave the usb connectors as i think you need them when flashing the hardware at a later date.


----------



## oreonutz

mgoldb2 said:


> I just want to confirm that there should be no issues with my planned setup using a Aquaero 6 XT
> 
> Relevant equipment
> Case THW10 with pedestal
> Top of Case 8 140 mm fans connected to a SilverStone Technology Silverstone 8-Port PWM Fan hub
> Pedestal 8 140 mm fans connected to a SilverStone Technology Silverstone 8-Port PWM Fan hub
> Front of case 4 140 mm fans connected to a SilverStone Technology Silverstone 8-Port PWM Fan hub
> 
> Aquacomputer aquaero 6 XT
> Aquacomputer aquabus Y-cable 4-Pin
> Aquacomputer aquabus cable 4-Pin x2
> 
> Separate GPU and CPU loop
> 
> CPU Loop
> Aquacomputer temperature sensor inline G1/4 X2
> Aquacomputer flow rate sensor "high flow USB" G1/4
> 
> GPU Loop
> Aquacomputer temperature sensor inline G1/4 X2
> Aquacomputer flow rate sensor "high flow USB" G1/4
> 
> My Planned setup
> 
> The 3 Fan hubs connected to Fans 1-3 on the Aquacomputer aquaero 6 XT
> 4 temperature sensor connected to the Aquacomputer aquaero 6 XT
> 
> Finally this the part I want to make sure i get the process right
> 
> 1. I connected both my Flow Controller through USB to change there ID's to be different
> 2. At this point I can disconnect the USB and no longer need to connect the Flow Controller to motherboard but instead use the high Aquabus on the Aquacomputer aquaero 6 XT
> 3. Connect aquabus Y-cable 4-Pin to Aquacomputer aquaero 6 XT then use the aquabus cable 4-Pin to connect both the flow sensors to the Y-cable.
> 
> Anything that wont work with this setup?





JasonMorris said:


> if you can leave the usb connectors as i think you need them when flashing the hardware at a later date.


Yup, this will work perfect for you. The one issue, as @JasonMorris Alluded to is that whenever there is an update to the software that you allow, it is possible you will need to update the Flow Controller's Firmware to work with the new Aquasuite Version. In those instances you will need USB Connected (Or Manually reconnect them at this point) to update the firmware, and then they will work as normal. As long as you update their firmware initially, and never update your Aquasuite again, they will continue to work over Aquabus without USB, up until such time as you update Aquasuite.

Everything else about your planned Setup is perfect, I run a similar setup, and no issues at all.


----------



## mgoldb2

oreonutz said:


> Yup, this will work perfect for you. The one issue, as @JasonMorris Alluded to is that whenever there is an update to the software that you allow, it is possible you will need to update the Flow Controller's Firmware to work with the new Aquasuite Version. In those instances you will need USB Connected (Or Manually reconnect them at this point) to update the firmware, and then they will work as normal. As long as you update their firmware initially, and never update your Aquasuite again, they will continue to work over Aquabus without USB, up until such time as you update Aquasuite.
> 
> Everything else about your planned Setup is perfect, I run a similar setup, and no issues at all.


Thank you, for the confirmation. I probably just connect the USB when I need it for firmware updates. Benefit of a giant case fairly easy to work in.


----------



## war4peace

mgoldb2 said:


> Thank you, for the confirmation. I probably just connect the USB when I need it for firmware updates. Benefit of a giant case fairly easy to work in.


Why not just leave USB connected at all times, then? Just curious.


----------



## apw63

war4peace said:


> Why not just leave USB connected at all times, then? Just curious.


I do to hard to disconnect, I have a mercury s8 with a pedestal. 2 AC D5 pumps plus AC flow meter 3 usbs 3 aquabus cables all in the basement.


----------



## Wam7

I have an Aquaero 5 & 6 Pro and for years I've just been using the free Aquasuite that I was allowed to have with the age of my devices. On a whim I thought I'd splash the cash and pay and get the latest Aquasuite (which also gives a years worth of free upgrades). I'm so glad I did as it meant I could do away with running 3rd party software for additional sensors as the new version has them built in.

It's been great to use the Average CPU Temp settings and in that way avoid those quick temp spikes that caused fans to spin up and down. I also use the GPU temp to control my side fans as the GPU benefits directly from those.


----------



## oreonutz

Wam7 said:


> I have an Aquaero 5 & 6 Pro and for years I've just been using the free Aquasuite that I was allowed to have with the age of my devices. On a whim I thought I'd splash the cash and pay and get the latest Aquasuite (which also gives a years worth of free upgrades). I'm so glad I did as it meant I could do away with running 3rd party software for additional sensors as the new version has them built in.
> 
> It's been great to use the Average CPU Temp settings and in that way avoid those quick temp spikes that caused fans to spin up and down. I also use the GPU temp to control my side fans as the GPU benefits directly from those.


100 Percent agree, I did the exact same thing with my Side Fans and GPU Temps before Swapping the Hybrid GPU over to a Full Cover Water Block. I have 4 Side Fans, so now I slapped in a Quadro, and gave the bottom 2 their own individual Zones, and the Top 2 Share a Zone. The Top 2 are controlled by VRM Temps and Memory Temps, and then the Bottom Right is Controlled by Chipset and NVMe (Which ever is hotter determines the curve), and the bottom Left is Controlled By the 10Gb Nic, NVMe, and Raid Card, which ever is hotter, and the level of Control Aquasuite Gives you is just amazing.

Anyways, I wasn't going to comment, but then I saw your Profile Pic, I am a huge G700s Supporter, so I just had to tell you, Nice Pic Bro! lol...


----------



## mgoldb2

war4peace said:


> mgoldb2 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Thank you, for the confirmation. I probably just connect the USB when I need it for firmware updates. Benefit of a giant case fairly easy to work in.
> 
> 
> 
> Why not just leave USB connected at all times, then? Just curious.
Click to expand...

Got 2 9 pin headers availble to use. Right now got 6 xt connected to one with 5 pin using 5 pin side of 9 pin header. Using other one for one of the flow meter. can I connect the secound flow using 4 pin side on one of them?

A issue am also having is even after updating firmware cant seem to get the 6xt to see the flow meter over aquabus. It working fine when connected to usb.

Did not have much time to look deeply into issue so planning on playing with it more after work today. The ids are different and firmware on everything up to date. using x.12 software.


----------



## Barefooter

mgoldb2 said:


> Got 2 9 pin headers availble to use. Right now got 6 xt connected to one with 5 pin using 5 pin side of 9 pin header. Using other one for one of the flow meter. * can I connect the secound flow using 4 pin side on one of them?
> *
> A issue am also having is even after updating firmware cant seem to get the 6xt to see the flow meter over aquabus. It working fine when connected to usb.
> 
> Did not have much time to look deeply into issue so planning on playing with it more after work today. The ids are different and firmware on everything up to date. using x.12 software.


Using the four pin side of the USB header should be no problem as long as it is not plugged in backwards.

I leave USB hooked up to all of my devices all the time as well.


----------



## mgoldb2

Barefooter said:


> Using the four pin side of the USB header should be no problem as long as it is not plugged in backwards.
> 
> I leave USB hooked up to all of my devices all the time as well.


Alright in that case I just leave is plugged in to the usb header.


----------



## ManniX-ITA

I have a question about the Aquaero and the 24 pin ATX standby power / ATX break adapter.
Could it be used to leave the PSU and Aquaero on after system shutdown?
I wonder if it can be programmed to run specific fan till a too hot or cold heatsink is back to ambient temperature.


----------



## war4peace

mgoldb2 said:


> Got 2 9 pin headers availble to use. Right now got 6 xt connected to one with 5 pin using 5 pin side of 9 pin header. Using other one for one of the flow meter. can I connect the secound flow using 4 pin side on one of them?
> 
> A issue am also having is even after updating firmware cant seem to get the 6xt to see the flow meter over aquabus. It working fine when connected to usb.
> 
> Did not have much time to look deeply into issue so planning on playing with it more after work today. The ids are different and firmware on everything up to date. using x.12 software.


Yes, you can definitely use the 4-pin header.
If you need more USB internal headers you could always get a hubby7.


----------



## oreonutz

war4peace said:


> Yes, you can definitely use the 4-pin header.
> If you need more USB internal headers you could always get a hubby7.


Yup, this is what I do. In some cases I have even resorted to using these Cheap things here: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B079CBQ11Q/ref=

So far haven't had a problem with either, I prefer the Hubby 7's as they are made better, but tend to be sold out a lot, and found as long as you place the cheap ones somewhere in the case where they won't get smashed by cables, they work well. I have had 2 in service for a little over a year, one broke lose underneath the PSU Shroud where I had taped it down, and got smashed when doing work on the PC, the PSU Cables mangled the poor little thing, and broke off one of the USB Inputs, but I was able to re-solder it on and that fixed it. The other I did a better job of Mounting on the back side of the Case, and still to this day is doing its job nicely, so as long as you have a decent USB Splitter you should be good. 

EDIT: Of course, if any of the USB Devices you are plugging into the Header requires a decent amount of Power, then I would definitely use the Hubby 7 as that will allow you to plug in SATA Power to give you supplemental Power. Otherwise I would only recommend using this cheap one for 2 devices that require USB Power, One On each Side, and the rest should be devices (Like the Aquaero, Quadro, or a RGB Controller) that receive their own power. This cheap splitter has no supplemental power and draws its 5v directly from the USB Port, as such I would make sure to limit the devices that require USB Power to it, or Use something Like the Hubby or NZXT USB Splitter instead, as they both use supplemental power. 

(For Example, on the PC's I use this Cheap USB Splitter On, I have the 2 Port USB Header on the Front Of the Case Plugged in, and that is One of 2 Devices that will potentially draw power, depending on what gets plugged into the Front USB Ports. The Other Things I have Plugged in are a Lighting Node Pro, An Aquaero, a Quadro, and a AQ Flow Rate Sensor. The Flow Rate Sensor is the Only Other Thing that draws power in this scenario, although its very little, but I put that on the other side. This way I make sure to balance the Power across the 2 Power Pins in the USB Header, and haven't had an issue doing it this way. But Lets say instead you plugged in 8 USB Ports across all 4 Headers, and then had External Hard Drives that all Drew Power from the USB Port, then you may start running into issues in that scenario, so just a scenario like that, and the cheap one will be fine.)


----------



## Wam7

oreonutz said:


> 100 Percent agree, I did the exact same thing with my Side Fans and GPU Temps before Swapping the Hybrid GPU over to a Full Cover Water Block. I have 4 Side Fans, so now I slapped in a Quadro, and gave the bottom 2 their own individual Zones, and the Top 2 Share a Zone. The Top 2 are controlled by VRM Temps and Memory Temps, and then the Bottom Right is Controlled by Chipset and NVMe (Which ever is hotter determines the curve), and the bottom Left is Controlled By the 10Gb Nic, NVMe, and Raid Card, which ever is hotter, and the level of Control Aquasuite Gives you is just amazing.
> 
> Anyways, I wasn't going to comment, but then I saw your Profile Pic, I am a huge G700s Supporter, so I just had to tell you, Nice Pic Bro! lol...


 That's sounds like a great set up! And yes the G700s is great, still use it though it's been relegated to my second system mouse by the G502 Lightspeed as I just got fed up of swapping out rechargeable batteries every 3/4 days.


----------



## oreonutz

Wam7 said:


> That's sounds like a great set up! And yes the G700s is great, still use it though it's been relegated to my second system mouse by the G502 Lightspeed as I just got fed up of swapping out rechargeable batteries every 3/4 days.


LOL! I know the Struggle. I keep a 4 Battery Recharger right next to me. I have to swap mine out about every other day, but I just plug one in the charger, pull another out, and cycle through them that way.

What do you think of the G502?

I use the 4 Thumb Buttons on SOOO Much stuff, I have them all mapped to different functions depending on the activity, and I love my Hyper Scroll Wheel, if only Logitech would just make the same button format, just a newer version I would buy it in a minute!


----------



## GTXJackBauer

oreonutz said:


> Yup, this is what I do. In some cases I have even resorted to using these Cheap things here: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B079CBQ11Q/ref=


When you got big money connected to these things, I prefer the HUBBY7s over anything else. If it's low value smalls, I could understand if ones on a budget but still, for a few more bucks, it's even worth the wait for more stock.


----------



## oreonutz

GTXJackBauer said:


> When you got big money connected to these things, I prefer the HUBBY7s over anything else. If it's low value smalls, I could understand if ones on a budget but still, for a few more bucks, it's even worth the wait for more stock.


I hear you. The Hubby 7 is undoubtedly a better product, so I would prefer this as well. But its a USB Splitter, as long as you hook it up correctly (And not plug in a USB header in Reverse) the worst you can have happen is it simply not work. Granted if the product was so bad it is possible that it could not deal with the 5v well and somehow mess up your usb connected devices, so if that is something you are worried about then waiting for the Hubby 7 may be worth it. In my experience though, even this cheap little USB Splitter does the job nicely, its not a complicated product, so as long as you know not to connect to many power hungry devices, or connect your header in reverse order, the risk is minimal. But different strokes for different folks I guess, the Hubby 7 is definitely better built, so definitely wait on it if it makes you feel better, for others that are comfortable experimenting, this isn't a bad option in a pinch. There is also an NZXT Offering out there that works pretty well that you can usually find in stock that is about $20, so if you are worried and the Hubby isn't in stock as it often is not, that is an option as well.


----------



## skupples

cheap? that thing should be $2, and just work.

though i do agree, in the context of a show room build, wait for the exact part you want.


----------



## Ashcroft

For an internal USB hub this works well

https://www.thermaltake.com.au/h200-internal-usb-hub.html

Uses sata power and attaches via internal magnet so you can place it anywhere. The headers extend sideways instead of vertically so cables are easier to arrange.


----------



## oreonutz

skupples said:


> cheap? that thing should be $2, and just work.
> 
> though i do agree, in the context of a show room build, wait for the exact part you want.


LOL! Agreed. To be fair, I think I might have made the price shoot up, when I bought 10 of them in December and the Hubby's were out of Stock they were only $6 a piece. They seemed to have doubled since then, so maybe that was just a sale, not sure, but either way $12 is better then $20 or $35, especially if you need multiples. With most things I would agree with the wait for the better product philosophy, especially if you are talking a Pump, or a CPU, or even a Cable or Fittings, or whatever. But for certain things you can get away with using a supplement, ESPECIALLY if you are short on time and you just need something to move on with the build to make sure everything else works properly, to be held up by something stupid like a USB Splitter, when you could either build one yourself, with a Breadboard and a few IC's, or buy a ready made product like this to test and see if it works well with some extra components before putting it in your expensive build, then it may be worth your time to try it out and see if it works. This is what I did in December 2018 when I first discovered these, I bought 1 and had it here the next day for a client build. Up until that point i had been using either Hubby's or the NZXT Splitter, and on one occasion built my own (Which was a pain in the butt, but I eventually succeeded). When I discovered the cheap one Worked flawlessly and at the time was only a bit more expensive then building my own and saved a lot of time, and all I had to do was be aware of the amount of power my USB Devices were drawing, there seemed like little downside. And as I said earlier my first 2 builds with these, both built at the end of 2018, are still working perfectly today.

So while yes, I 100 Percent agree with the philosophy of using only top grade components for your high end builds, there are certain things that at the end of the day all use the same exact IC's to perform their function, and either add additional features, or are dressed up in nicer looking or sturdier packages. While that in itself is actually useful and serves a function and may be worth it to some people to use in their builds, especially if you are in a pinch and just need something that works, you can as an enthusiast make informed decisions to use less then perfect products and still have a killer high end build that works flawlessly, but might use something like a cheaper USB Splitter that happens to use almost identical components to the $35 one, but might lack supplemental power and nice housing to protect it. If you are aware of the differences and the limitations, I feel you are perfectly justified in using this part, as long as you take the necessary protections to make sure its used properly, and mounted in a place where it won't get beat up from its lack of protective housing. You could even go a step further and 3d Print its own Housing if you were concerned.

I definitely do not want to discourage people from buying what they feel they need to buy, but I also don't want to scare people away from experimenting with technology either, just because it might not have a brand name, does not always mean its bad, and even if it is, as long as you do your due diligence and know what and what not to plug into it, you may come away with a deeper understanding of the technology used, and get curious enough to build your own. (This product was the catalyst for me researching the IC's used and buying them myself and making my own using that as blue print, and then working supplemental power into my own, I doubt I will ever do it again as it ended up being a pain in the butt for multiple reasons, but if I wanted to I could and would probably do an even better job next time, and now I understand how it works and that knowledge could become useful in the future, something I probably would have never bothered to learn had I not looked outside of the Premium box.)

Anyways, my 2 cents on the topic, or 25 cents, lol.



Ashcroft said:


> For an internal USB hub this works well
> 
> https://www.thermaltake.com.au/h200-internal-usb-hub.html
> 
> Uses sata power and attaches via internal magnet so you can place it anywhere. The headers extend sideways instead of vertically so cables are easier to arrange.


Nice, I hadn't seen this option before, I am going to keep this in mind for the future. Appreciate it.


----------



## GTXJackBauer

There has been in the past instances where people fried their stuff with either a bad batch or something like that with NZXT's splitter. I think that was one of their early revisions and not the one that is out now iirc. I'm comfortable enough to stick with AC's HUBBY7 and SPLITTY9s for splitters. Sure, there are others as well but I'm more comfortable with German engineering.  You surely won't catch me with a no-name cheap splitter though.


----------



## oreonutz

GTXJackBauer said:


> There has been in the past instances where people fried their stuff with either a bad batch or something like that with NZXT's splitter. I think that was one of their early revisions and not the one that is out now iirc. I'm comfortable enough to stick with AC's HUBBY7 and SPLITTY9s for splitters. Sure, there are others as well but I'm more comfortable with German engineering.  You surely won't catch me with a no-name cheap splitter though.


Hey I definitely get the mentality. Not at all saying your wrong, or that I am right. There is inherent risk involved with trying other products, and I get some people just aren't willing to do that. At the same time, if you are aware of what you are purchasing, and are smart enough to test it with devices that you could careless if they die before putting it into your build to confirm they work as intended, and know your way around a multimeter to insure there isn't anything funky going on that could potentially kill a product, then you can end up saving yourself time and money, which in my opinion is never a bad thing.

Again, I much prefer the Hubby 7, its objectively a better product in almost every metric. While when you strip it down, you will see the IC's used are almost identical to the cheap one I mentioned, it does have extra components to smooth out power on the board, it includes supplemental power, and is housed in much more sturdy casing. This plus the brand recognition and comfort that gives you as a buyer makes it worth the price right there. So I am definitely not preaching against the Hubby, its a damn good product, and I still buy them when I run Low because there are certain builds that just need the supplemental power, or need the extra protection a solid product like that gives you for clients that have a habit of opening up their builds and tinkering themselves. For those clients I would NEVER want them playing with that cheap "no Name Splitter" for sure. So definitely, if you can, get the better the product.

At the same time there was a time when Aquacomputer was a "No Name Brand", and without people experimenting and taking chances they never would have become the trusted name they are today. Not that I am suggesting whatever Chinese manufacturer that obviously made this cheap splitter will ever become the next Aquacomputer, but more that its totally OK to take chances with brands and products you are unfamiliar with, just do your due diligence before plugging it into your expensive rig, something I would frankly do with most parts regardless who makes them.

Again, different Philosophy's, I just don't think there is anything wrong with experimenting with 'no Brand' stuff in certain situations as long as you are willing to take the necessary precautions that you should probably be taking anyway, as there is always the small chance, even with AQ stuff that something slipped through QC, it happens to even the best companies. Anyways, I don't think your wrong at all, I just also don't think there is anything wrong with trying other products, you may find there are situations where a different approach is warranted. Anyways, much respect!


----------



## skupples

reminds me. I need to cut the holes in my STH10 power IO n rig up these damn USB extensions already. So tired of the stupidly low USB count on this Z390 MSI board. M+KB can run off its "2.0" ports, everything else really doesn't matter, and giving my ol' girl the reach around to plug in a thumb drive is such a pain in the ass. 

are there such things as proper active polling hubs now? hubs that you can plug a joystick into & not have weirdness? mobo does have 1x usb-c port.


----------



## oreonutz

skupples said:


> reminds me. I need to cut the holes in my STH10 power IO n rig up these damn USB extensions already. So tired of the stupidly low USB count on this Z390 MSI board. M+KB can run off its "2.0" ports, everything else really doesn't matter, and giving my ol' girl the reach around to plug in a thumb drive is such a pain in the ass.
> 
> are there such things as proper active polling hubs now? hubs that you can plug a joystick into & not have weirdness? mobo does have 1x usb-c port.


That's a damn good question. I am going to look into that. There should be the necessary IC's out now to build one if a product does not exist. I'll walk down this rabbit hole tomorrow and see what I can come up with if no one responds with a definitive answer by then.


----------



## skupples

i figure it should be completely plausible on this lightning 2 port. GPU caddies run off of them after all.


----------



## Endeav

Any idea on North American distribution for the OCTO? QUADRO would satisfy my controller needs but I really want an alarm shutoff capability that the OCTO has, and I can't justify getting a 6 LT just for that purpose over the QUADRO. Might order from aquacomputer anyways since it's unlikely I could source the right cable to get alarm shutoff to work in North America.

https://shop.aquacomputer.de/product_info.php?products_id=3488

Also, for these two products

Flow sensor high flow G1/4 for aquaero, aquastream XT ultra and poweradjust
https://shop.aquacomputer.de/product_info.php?products_id=2294

Flow sensor high flow USB G1/4
https://shop.aquacomputer.de/product_info.php?products_id=2897

The USB variant is literally just that? Includes an aquabus and USB output as opposed to just aquabus and so I should be fine with the non-usb provided I have this cable? 

https://shop.aquacomputer.de/product_info.php?products_id=3487


----------



## jvillaveces

I just updated to Aquasuite X.13 and lost all my software sensors. They all show 50C, the default value. Is anyone else having the same problem?


----------



## valvehead

jvillaveces said:


> I just updated to Aquasuite X.13 and lost all my software sensors. They all show 50C, the default value. Is anyone else having the same problem?


First, make sure that the aquasuite service is installed and running: Aquasuite tab -> Service -> Background service. It should say "Service is installed" and "Service is running."

Second, you may need to reapply the data source for each temperature sensor. Two of mine were stuck at 50C, so I had to re-add the data source. I don't know how long they had been inactive since I rarely check the software temps in aquasuite. Instead I have HWiNFO show a few sensors in the system tray.


----------



## Shawnb99

valvehead said:


> First, make sure that the aquasuite service is installed and running: Aquasuite tab -> Service -> Background service. It should say "Service is installed" and "Service is running."
> 
> Second, you may need to reapply the data source for each temperature sensor. Two of mine were stuck at 50C, so I had to re-add the data source. I don't know how long they had been inactive since I rarely check the software temps in aquasuite. Instead I have HWiNFO show a few sensors in the system tray.


Had to update the firmware on all my quadro's last 2 updates, really annoying


----------



## valvehead

Shawnb99 said:


> Had to update the firmware on all my quadro's last 2 updates, really annoying


I had to update my aquaero firmware for X.12 but not for X.13. I think this is the first time there was no new firmware. Thankfully updates are much easier now with the auto backup of the settings.


----------



## GTXJackBauer

I'm still on X.4 and worry I will lose my settings and won't be able to load them up from my saved profiles.


----------



## skupples

i had no issues upgrading over a large jump .


----------



## GTXJackBauer

skupples said:


> i had no issues upgrading over a large jump .


Good to hear. I've just been hearing of some complaining of their stuff being wiped out and starting over.


----------



## Bartdude

GTXJackBauer said:


> Good to hear. I've just been hearing of some complaining of their stuff being wiped out and starting over.


I've had no issues either and was able to re-apply saved profiles


----------



## war4peace

I reinstalled the OS yesterday and saved my pages and profiles for Aquaero 6. Was able to reapply the saved settings just fine. Farbwerk 360 didn't need anything, it just worked.


----------



## sultanofswing

Wondering if anyone is having the same issue I am.
With the updated X13 version anytime Aquasuite starts it get's put in desktop mode for some reason.
Prior versions did not do this.

I have AS setup to load my page automatically and it does that but like I said it does it in desktop mode and I have to manually exit it out of that mode.


----------



## skupples

GTXJackBauer said:


> Good to hear. I've just been hearing of some complaining of their stuff being wiped out and starting over.


manually capture your profiles, instead of relying on the tool to do it.


----------



## oreonutz

skupples said:


> manually capture your profiles, instead of relying on the tool to do it.


Yeah I was a dumb ass. I didn't manually save my latest Profile before upgrading to x13, and ALL OF MY LATEST Settings were Wiped out. Not a HUGE DEAL as I was able to restore my last manually saved Profile, and then tune from there, but still sucked... Always manually save your Profiles...


----------



## tatmMRKIV

hey all I am trying to pick up one or 2 of these things for the first time. not sure what all I need other than flow sensors, temp sensors and a 6LT or do I even need a 6LT?? I am trying to do dual loops with atleast one loop consisting of dual aquaero capable PWM D5s and a 480 rad. and a 360 rad in the second loop so with a mcp35x2.


----------



## Jubijub

Is anyone using RGB fans (like Corsair ML RGB) and driving the RGB side of things with Aquacomputer gear ?

What I would like to achieve : change LED colors based on delta T" (which is a virtual sensor I configured in Aquasuite and that lives in my AQ6 memory, obviously). Because of this I am not sure how the Corsair software can access it, and if it would work on Linux without the Corsair software installed. Do I need to use the Corsair software, or can I drive the leds straight from Aquasuite ?
If so what is your setup ?

I have an AQ6 and only Splitty9, so I understand I would need to upgrade those to Splitty 4 RGBpx, but after that I am not clear how the software side of thing would work.


----------



## Shawnb99

tatmMRKIV said:


> hey all I am trying to pick up one or 2 of these things for the first time. not sure what all I need other than flow sensors, temp sensors and a 6LT or do I even need a 6LT?? I am trying to do dual loops with atleast one loop consisting of dual aquaero capable PWM D5s and a 480 rad. and a 360 rad in the second loop so with a mcp35x2.


You could get away with using one or a couple Quadro's instead of the 6LT if you don't need voltage control and or want to control everything via one device, depending on how many channels you want.


----------



## Moose-Tech

For complete control (but less expensive then a dual Aquaero 6 LT/XT setup) is to use one Aquaer0 6 and add a Quadro, 

The Aquaero 6 Lt allows (4x) 2.5 amps per PWM channel and a Quadro allows (4x) 2 amps per PWM channel. 
Between the two components you also have 12 temp sensor inputs and a separate flow sensor input. 

That should allow for complete control of a dual loop system.


----------



## Shoggy

Jubijub said:


> Is anyone using RGB fans (like Corsair ML RGB) and driving the RGB side of things with Aquacomputer gear ?
> 
> What I would like to achieve : change LED colors based on delta T" (which is a virtual sensor I configured in Aquasuite and that lives in my AQ6 memory, obviously). Because of this I am not sure how the Corsair software can access it, and if it would work on Linux without the Corsair software installed. Do I need to use the Corsair software, or can I drive the leds straight from Aquasuite ?
> If so what is your setup ?
> 
> I have an AQ6 and only Splitty9, so I understand I would need to upgrade those to Splitty 4 RGBpx, but after that I am not clear how the software side of thing would work.


When you say like Corsair, then I assume the fans just use the common 4-pin plugs (with only real 3 pins) that can be attached to a mainboard. In this case you will need one RGBpx port per fan or you need some kind of y-cable or splitter (we have none).

Splitty4 is not necessary for your setup because the LED part is only compatible with Corsair or NZXT fans. You will very likely need this adapter, connection cable (not 53288) and a RGBpx enabled device of course.

D5 NEXT, QUADRO and farbwerk nano offer one RGBpx port.
OCTO offers two RGPx ports.
farbwerk 360 has four of them.

The aquaero has no RGBpx interface nor can it access such an interface via aquabus.

When you run Linux you can not use software sensors. So, you have to connect a physical sensor to the controlling device. The farbwerk nano is out of the game here since it has no interface for a sensor. The D5 NEXT also has no interface for an external sensor but it has an internal water temperature sensor that can be also used for the LEDs.

The aquasuite can not access the LEDs if they are connected elsewhere (mainboard, Corsair device etc.) and the Corsair software can also not access any of our devices or data from the aquasuite.

---

By the way...


----------



## Barefooter

Good to see you back Shoggy! Haven't seen you around here in awhile.


Very informative post on the RGBpx options too :thumb:


----------



## skupples

the man, the myth, the legend.


----------



## iamjanco

Shoggy said:


> Spoiler
> 
> 
> 
> When you say like Corsair, then I assume the fans just use the common 4-pin plugs (with only real 3 pins) that can be attached to a mainboard. In this case you will need one RGBpx port per fan or you need some kind of y-cable or splitter (we have none).
> 
> Splitty4 is not necessary for your setup because the LED part is only compatible with Corsair or NZXT fans. You will very likely need this adapter, connection cable (not 53288) and a RGBpx enabled device of course.
> 
> D5 NEXT, QUADRO and farbwerk nano offer one RGBpx port.
> OCTO offers two RGPx ports.
> farbwerk 360 has four of them.
> 
> The aquaero has no RGBpx interface nor can it access such an interface via aquabus.
> 
> When you run Linux you can not use software sensors. So, you have to connect a physical sensor to the controlling device. The farbwerk nano is out of the game here since it has no interface for a sensor. The D5 NEXT also has no interface for an external sensor but it has an internal water temperature sensor that can be also used for the LEDs.
> 
> The aquasuite can not access the LEDs if they are connected elsewhere (mainboard, Corsair device etc.) and the Corsair software can also not access any of our devices or data from the aquasuite.
> 
> 
> 
> ---
> 
> By the way...


Welcome back :thumb:

I need a sandmich.


----------



## MaratRussian

Hi
is it possible to use vision display to show media info from other media players not iTunes


----------



## Shoggy

In theory you could use the USB LCD mode that allows to push data directly to the display through the tool LCDHype and a PlugIn but you will have to script everything yourself and you also need access to the data that you want to display.


----------



## Asunder

Quick question, is there any way of making use of an external power supply (35W) with a MOLEX adapter if I basically need SATA? I got one and did not notice that the pump that I ordered with it is newer and uses SATA power instead of molex (aquastream ultimate apparently has an updated interface). Is there any workaround for this? 

Was also looking into a solution for fan control via temp reading- thanks to a user here explaining the math- it seems that I shouldn't use the pump's fan headers (max output 25W) because they don't have enough power for 3 medium RPM fans. Can the pump control the fans if I plug them into the motherboard (PWM slots) via the basic software? 

Would an aquaero or one of the smaller fan controllers make any sense in this situation, in your opinions? I would only need it to control 3 fans via temperature reading on the pump, so I'm not sure if it's worth the extra. Anyhow, would one of these controllers perhaps be able to solve both of the above? Not sure if it makes any sense, but I was thinking if I could use a "middle layer" as a means to route molex power via the interface and also use it as a fan controller to protect the pump's circuit.


----------



## InfoSeeker

Asunder said:


> Quick question, is there any way of making use of an external power supply (35W) with a MOLEX adapter if I basically need SATA? I got one and did not notice that the pump that I ordered with it is newer and uses SATA power instead of molex (aquastream ultimate apparently has an updated interface). Is there any workaround for this?


Perhaps THIS may help?



> Was also looking into a solution for fan control via temp reading- thanks to a user here explaining the math- it seems that I shouldn't use the pump's fan headers (max output 25W) because they don't have enough power for 3 medium RPM fans. Can the pump control the fans if I plug them into the motherboard (PWM slots) via the basic software?


No, the pump is not able to control fans that are not connected to it's fan port. But you could use a splitty9 active to drive the fans under the pumps control, with power from the adapter above.



> Would an aquaero or one of the smaller fan controllers make any sense in this situation, in your opinions? I would only need it to control 3 fans via temperature reading on the pump, so I'm not sure if it's worth the extra. Anyhow, would one of these controllers perhaps be able to solve both of the above? Not sure if it makes any sense, but I was thinking if I could use a "middle layer" as a means to route molex power via the interface and also use it as a fan controller to protect the pump's circuit.


----------



## Asunder

InfoSeeker said:


> Perhaps THIS may help?
> 
> No, the pump is not able to control fans that are not connected to it's fan port. But you could use a splitty9 active to drive the fans under the pumps control, with power from the adapter above.


The SATA adapter would be, by far, the easiest fix, but I'm afraid to go that route- pretty much everything I read on forums says molex adapters are garbage and have a lot of safety issues (melting etc.) so that's why I was looking for a better solution. 

Damn, there's so much stuff on AQ's site I literally didn't come across that one, that looks like the only decent option so far, thanks! I forgot to mention the case I want to get also has a fan controller, but based on the information I read regularly they usually suck so I ruled it out.


----------



## speed_demon

Yeah I will toss in my 2c and add that molex to sata power adapters are not a good solution. I'll dig around my archive and see if I still have the pictures of the couple I've had short out and get hot enough to melt inside my rig.


----------



## skupples

the sata ends, right? if so, can confirm. stick to using them on drives.


----------



## ManniX-ITA

Asunder said:


> The SATA adapter would be, by far, the easiest fix, but I'm afraid to go that route- pretty much everything I read on forums says molex adapters are garbage and have a lot of safety issues (melting etc.) so that's why I was looking for a better solution.
> 
> Damn, there's so much stuff on AQ's site I literally didn't come across that one, that looks like the only decent option so far, thanks! I forgot to mention the case I want to get also has a fan controller, but based on the information I read regularly they usually suck so I ruled it out.


AFAIK there's no issue with Molex to SATA adapters unless they are extremely cheap. Molex can handle up to 15 A while each SATA up to 4.5 A.

It's the opposite way that should be avoided, from SATA to Molex; but it's a risk only if you don't know the load (or again if they are extremely cheap).
If the max load on the Molex is below 4.5 A then it's viable.
Usually, unless it's something very old, there's a reason why the connector is Molex and not SATA; because the load could go above 4.5 A.


----------



## oreonutz

ManniX-ITA said:


> AFAIK there's no issue with Molex to SATA adapters unless they are extremely cheap. Molex can handle up to 15 A while each SATA up to 4.5 A.
> 
> It's the opposite way that should be avoided, from SATA to Molex; but it's a risk only if you don't know the load (or again if they are extremely cheap).
> If the max load on the Molex is below 4.5 A then it's viable.
> Usually, unless it's something very old, there's a reason why the connector is Molex and not SATA; because the load could go above 4.5 A.


100% Concur. Make sure you load does not exceed 15a, or to be on the safe side keep it even lower. If you are adapting Molex to Sata, and only plugging in ONE device on that adapted Sata, it is extremely unlikely you will be exceeding even 4a, so in your case you would be fine. Just get one well made.


----------



## sakete

oreonutz said:


> 100% Concur. Make sure you load does not exceed 15a, or to be on the safe side keep it even lower. If you are adapting Molex to Sata, and only plugging in ONE device on that adapted Sata, it is extremely unlikely you will be exceeding even 4a, so in your case you would be fine. Just get one well made.


Hmm, I'm using a sata to molex adapter to power my Aquaero. I think I'll just use one of the molex cables direct to my psu, just to be safe.


----------



## oreonutz

sakete said:


> Hmm, I'm using a sata to molex adapter to power my Aquaero. I think I'll just use one of the molex cables direct to my psu, just to be safe.


If you have the ability to use Molex directly off the power supply then that is definitely a better idea. But as long as your current load is lower then 4a across the entire Sata Cable, then you have nothing to worry about, it just depends how many drives or devices you have plugged into that Sata Rail.

Most of these stories you hear about Molex adapters melting are from people putting way too much current across the adapter, as with anything you pull more power than the cable, or in this case adapter, is rated for, you are going to have issues. The other issue is that some adapters use higher gauge wiring, leading them to not be able to sustain even a load within spec, so just don't use the cheapest one out there, and if at all possible don't use adapters, but if its just one device using them, most of the time you will be ok, just don't try to pull more power across it then the cable itself is rated for.


----------



## Asunder

oreonutz said:


> 100% Concur. Make sure you load does not exceed 15a, or to be on the safe side keep it even lower. If you are adapting Molex to Sata, and only plugging in ONE device on that adapted Sata, it is extremely unlikely you will be exceeding even 4a, so in your case you would be fine. Just get one well made.





ManniX-ITA said:


> AFAIK there's no issue with Molex to SATA adapters unless they are extremely cheap. Molex can handle up to 15 A while each SATA up to 4.5 A.
> 
> It's the opposite way that should be avoided, from SATA to Molex; but it's a risk only if you don't know the load (or again if they are extremely cheap).
> If the max load on the Molex is below 4.5 A then it's viable.
> Usually, unless it's something very old, there's a reason why the connector is Molex and not SATA; because the load could go above 4.5 A.


Cool, might be able to make it work then! Btw, really appreciate the explanations. I don't know how many amps it pulls, but the main reason I'm looking for a molex to SATA solution is that I have a small external PSU that I bought solely for the pump. I wanted to have it externally run the pump 24 hours once I have a build going and see if everything is ok.

I have a Phobya 35W PSU that I wanted to connect to an Aquastream Ultimate, but the external PSU is molex and the pump is SATA.


----------



## Shoggy

I can not recommend to use these small one plug PSUs. Most of them have a pretty bad quality and I know several customers that damaged devices with such PSUs because of serious voltage fluctuations or other malfunctions.


----------



## speed_demon

I have a bit of relevant experience here - The external 12V & 5v Molex AC to DC power supplies vary wildly in quality and lifespan, even from the same manufacturer. 

I have one that has been in use for around 7 years with no issues. Two of them burned up and could have caught fire to anything nearby if they hadn't been sitting on a bare concrete garage floor. Also they need a modified adapter in order to properly function - They have a blanked out pin and don't provide power the same way as a PC PSU's molex connector does. 

They're not a great solution. Much better to buy a meanwell type switching power supply and create your own molex power connecter & pigtail to suit if you need power outside of a PC case. 

These ones vary wildly in quality:










This is a 12V/5V meanwell and is the industry standard for low wattage/low voltage DC power. They're awesome and tremendously reliable.


----------



## sakete

Hi, if I want to connect both an OCTO and D5 NEXT via Aquabus to my Aquaero 6, can i put one into Aquabus High and the other in Aquabus Low, or do I need to use a Y-cable to attach both to High? Can I use any Y-cable, or do I have to use an Aquabus specific Y cable?


----------



## Shoggy

PSUs from Mean Well are usually good and not so much more expensive.



sakete said:


> Hi, if I want to connect both an OCTO and D5 NEXT via Aquabus to my Aquaero 6, can i put one into Aquabus High and the other in Aquabus Low, or do I need to use a Y-cable to attach both to High? Can I use any Y-cable, or do I have to use an Aquabus specific Y cable?


You need a y-cable. The aqbaus low is not used for aquabus anymore since a long time (acts as second flow sensor port now) nor would it have been compatible.

You can use any y-cable that has all wires on both plugs connected. A y-cable for fans will not work because the wire for the RPM is cut on the second plug.


----------



## sakete

Shoggy said:


> PSUs from Mean Well are usually good and not so much more expensive.
> 
> 
> 
> You need a y-cable. The aqbaus low is not used for aquabus anymore since a long time (acts as second flow sensor port now) nor would it have been compatible.
> 
> You can use any y-cable that has all wires on both plugs connected. A y-cable for fans will not work because the wire for the RPM is cut on the second plug.


Danke!


----------



## ManniX-ITA

I can't get to work the flow sensor with 5.6 mm nozzle, art. 53061.
Got the right cable and connected it to the aquaero but I don't get a reading, either on Flow 1 or Flow 2.
Is there something I'm missing?


----------



## Shoggy

You can connect the 3-pin female to female cable (comes with the aquaero) between the flow port and tacho port for a test. Make sure that level 0 (normal operation) in the alarm action tab has the tacho output enabled as action, otherwise there will be no tacho output to fake a signal for the flow port.

If that works and you see a flow value, it means the sensor is very likely not OK.


----------



## tistou77

Hello

I'm looking for a "fan controler"  and I like the Aquaero 6 (especially since I'm looking for a silver one), and I have a few questions

1) I saw that it was better to take version 6, heat less than version 5 if we want to use the fan or other with less tension
That's right ?

2) Can the 4pin (PWM) be used with a fan (or other) 3pin and use the variation ?
And lower the tension ? and RPMs ?

3) The only difference between the Pro and XT version is the remote control ?
But on the XT version, there are also the 3 buttons (like the Pro version) to be able to use it directly from the "screen" (I just saw the 3 LEDs) ?

Thanks for your help


----------



## Shoggy

1.) Yes, aquaero 6 works as a switched-mode power supply for the fan outputs which has a high efficiency and therefor does not cause much heat. The aquaero 5 on the other hand uses a classic voltage control which especially becomes quite warm/hot when connecting a lot of stuff and lowering the output voltage.

2.) The aquaero 6 can use voltage or PWM control on all four fan outputs. You can configure that in anyway you want. For example use output 1+4 with voltage control and 2+3 with PWM control. Each channel can have individual controller settings. Or in other words: whatever you want to do: it is possible.

3.) XT uses touch control, has four more buttons that make navigation a bit easier and can be programmed as short cuts to jump to specific menus point, the three main buttons are illuminated with LEDs, the display and touch buttons are covered by a glass so the whole front is even, the remote control is included and the runtime for free updates of the aquasuite software is 12 months longer.


----------



## ManniX-ITA

Shoggy said:


> You can connect the 3-pin female to female cable (comes with the aquaero) between the flow port and tacho port for a test. Make sure that level 0 (normal operation) in the alarm action tab has the tacho output enabled as action, otherwise there will be no tacho output to fake a signal for the flow port.
> 
> If that works and you see a flow value, it means the sensor is very likely not OK.


Thanks for the tip. But against all odds I got not one, but two brand new pumps failing. Made my day.
The sensor is working fine, I can get the flow reading from the other pump; it's erratic but didn't stop working completely.


----------



## skupples

the screen is helpful during build out. otherwise, it just sits there looking meh.

needs an OLED update


----------



## ManniX-ITA

skupples said:


> the screen is helpful during build out. otherwise, it just sits there looking meh.
> 
> needs an OLED update


I agree, needs an OLED update. From my sitting position it's unreadable, I have to duck down


----------



## tistou77

Shoggy said:


> 1.) Yes, aquaero 6 works as a switched-mode power supply for the fan outputs which has a high efficiency and therefor does not cause much heat. The aquaero 5 on the other hand uses a classic voltage control which especially becomes quite warm/hot when connecting a lot of stuff and lowering the output voltage.
> 
> 2.) The aquaero 6 can use voltage or PWM control on all four fan outputs. You can configure that in anyway you want. For example use output 1+4 with voltage control and 2+3 with PWM control. Each channel can have individual controller settings. Or in other words: whatever you want to do: it is possible.
> 
> 3.) XT uses touch control, has four more buttons that make navigation a bit easier and can be programmed as short cuts to jump to specific menus point, the three main buttons are illuminated with LEDs, the display and touch buttons are covered by a glass so the whole front is even, the remote control is included and the runtime for free updates of the aquasuite software is 12 months longer.


Thanks so much for your reply and the details :thumb:

2) If I remember correctly, there are 4 x 4pin and 2 x 4pin (PWM)
So I can use these 6 "outputs" in 3pin and use the voltage control ?

3) I do not wish to use the software and if I understood correctly, everything can be adjusted from the Aquaero 6 screen

I have one last question, is it possible to turn off the screen but without turning off the Aquaero ?

Thanks


----------



## Shoggy

tistou77 said:


> 2) If I remember correctly, there are 4 x 4pin and 2 x 4pin (PWM)
> So I can use these 6 "outputs" in 3pin and use the voltage control ?
> 
> 3) I do not wish to use the software and if I understood correctly, everything can be adjusted from the Aquaero 6 screen
> 
> I have one last question, is it possible to turn off the screen but without turning off the Aquaero ?


You can also use the two 12V 2-pin PWM outputs in the controller settings etc. but they are not meant for fans nor can you adjust their voltage. They provide a pulsed 12V power output which can be used for LED strips for example.

3.) You can configure most stuff directly from the onboard menu and screen but be warned: it will be painful and frustrating :arrowhead Things that only take a few mouse clicks in the software will become an adventure in the onboard menu. I highly recommend to do the initial setup with a PC.

The screen can not be completely turned off. There are workarounds to make it look like being turned off by adding a black screen as custom graphics for the standby screen and setting the backlight brightness to 0%. Technically it is still turned on.


----------



## tistou77

Shoggy said:


> You can also use the two 12V 2-pin PWM outputs in the controller settings etc. but they are not meant for fans nor can you adjust their voltage. They provide a pulsed 12V power output which can be used for LED strips for example.
> 
> 3.) You can configure most stuff directly from the onboard menu and screen but be warned: it will be painful and frustrating :arrowhead Things that only take a few mouse clicks in the software will become an adventure in the onboard menu. I highly recommend to do the initial setup with a PC.
> 
> The screen can not be completely turned off. There are workarounds to make it look like being turned off by adding a black screen as custom graphics for the standby screen and setting the backlight brightness to 0%. Technically it is still turned on.


Thanks so much 

2) Thanks, so I could use the 6 x 4pin for the 3pin fans and regulate via the voltage
Good to know for the 2pin 12v, I have an LED strip but with a 3pin connector (just 2 files but would have to check)

3) Ok to use the software, I will see then
I had read that once everything was set in the software, we could even uninstall it

Ok for the screen, I prefer when it's off (not needing to watch when everything is set)
I'll see for a minimum brightness setting (or if there is a discreet "screen)"

Thanks for your help


PS : The 4 pins can be regulated via the voltage, but also via the RPM ?


----------



## badkarma3059

Something odd...
anyone ever end up with two different versions of aquasuite after upgrading an old version? I was on x11, and recently upgraded via the table in the upper right corner of the program. Now, the old version minimizes to the system tray on windows start up, and the new one, X13 is pinned to the start menu. Did I mess something up with the update?


----------



## ManniX-ITA

tistou77 said:


> Thanks so much
> 
> 2) Thanks, so I could use the 6 x 4pin for the 3pin fans and regulate via the voltage
> Good to know for the 2pin 12v, I have an LED strip but with a 3pin connector (just 2 files but would have to check)
> 
> 3) Ok to use the software, I will see then
> I had read that once everything was set in the software, we could even uninstall it
> 
> Ok for the screen, I prefer when it's off (not needing to watch when everything is set)
> I'll see for a minimum brightness setting (or if there is a discreet "screen)"
> 
> Thanks for your help
> 
> 
> PS : The 4 pins can be regulated via the voltage, but also via the RPM ?


You can do that and more, plus stuff you didn't even thought about 
I guess you mean the 4-pin fan outputs, below the screenshot on how you can set it up.


----------



## tistou77

ManniX-ITA said:


> You can do that and more, plus stuff you didn't even thought about
> I guess you mean the 4-pin fan outputs, below the screenshot on how you can set it up.


Yes it is for the 4-pin fan outputs, if I could use them by regulating via the voltage or via the RPMs (possible to do or one or the other, as desired)

Thanks so much for all this info :thumb: 
The Aquaero will be a bit useless for my use (just the fans) but I'm looking for a "fan controller" in silver color and with a beautiful design


----------



## ManniX-ITA

tistou77 said:


> Yes it is for the 4-pin fan outputs, if I could use them by regulating via the voltage or via the RPMs (possible to do or one or the other, as desired)
> 
> Thanks so much for all this info :thumb:
> The Aquaero will be a bit useless for my use (just the fans) but I'm looking for a "fan controller" in silver color and with a beautiful design


I'd buy it even only for the fans 
But if you have water cooling is almost a must; the abundance of thermal sensors, flow sensors and alarms you can trigger it's just amazing.
With the appropriate adapter you can also trigger an emergency shutdown, nice life insurance for your rig.


----------



## Shoggy

badkarma3059 said:


> Something odd...
> anyone ever end up with two different versions of aquasuite after upgrading an old version? I was on x11, and recently upgraded via the table in the upper right corner of the program. Now, the old version minimizes to the system tray on windows start up, and the new one, X13 is pinned to the start menu. Did I mess something up with the update?


I would assume these versions are located in different installations folders. Have you checked that? Maybe run the setup again and make sure that you use your initial installation folder.


----------



## tistou77

ManniX-ITA said:


> I'd buy it even only for the fans
> But if you have water cooling is almost a must; the abundance of thermal sensors, flow sensors and alarms you can trigger it's just amazing.
> With the appropriate adapter you can also trigger an emergency shutdown, nice life insurance for your rig.


Ok, thanks for your feedback


----------



## skupples

did you happen to also upgrade your windows at some point? n the old aquasuite is living in windows.old?


----------



## ManniX-ITA

Do you think it's possible to drive a pair of electromagnetic ball valves via the 12V PWM output on the aquaero 6?

https://www.alphacool.com/shop/fitt...-2/2-wege-highflow-elektromagnetventil-12v-dc

They are 12V, max 500 mA load. I guess the PWM high rate of 15 Khz should keep the valve open but I'm not sure.
I'd run 2 on PWM1 and only 1 on PWM2.

Does anyone has knowledge of alternatives to consider?


----------



## war4peace

ManniX-ITA said:


> Do you think it's possible to drive a pair of electromagnetic ball valves via the 12V PWM output on the aquaero 6?
> 
> https://www.alphacool.com/shop/fitt...-2/2-wege-highflow-elektromagnetventil-12v-dc
> 
> They are 12V, max 500 mA load. I guess the PWM high rate of 15 Khz should keep the valve open but I'm not sure.
> I'd run 2 on PWM1 and only 1 on PWM2.
> 
> Does anyone has knowledge of alternatives to consider?


A couple years ago, when I was thinking about having a dual-cooling setup, I was considering using these to switch between flow circuits. My plan was to use an external (outside the house or in the attic) passive radiator during winter and an external (in the same room) active radiator during summer, but I dropped the idea because it was not feasible. Leaving the liquid idle for 6 months a year in an unused loop was not a good idea.

What do you plan to use them for?


----------



## sultanofswing

I wonder if the fine gentleman at Aquacomputer ever plan to release a new Aquaero that no longer uses the 5.25" form factor?


----------



## Shawnb99

sultanofswing said:


> I wonder if the fine gentleman at Aquacomputer ever plan to release a new Aquaero that no longer uses the 5.25" form factor?


With the release of the Quadro and Octo if you're tight on space there's little reason to get a Aquero over them.


----------



## war4peace

Shawnb99 said:


> With the release of the Quadro and Octo if you're tight on space there's little reason to get a Aquero over them.


I used a Quadro for my wife's mITX build. My main PC has an Aquaero and a Farbwerk 360, but the case is a Thermaltake Core X5, could hide half an elephant in there.


----------



## ManniX-ITA

war4peace said:


> A couple years ago, when I was thinking about having a dual-cooling setup, I was considering using these to switch between flow circuits. My plan was to use an external (outside the house or in the attic) passive radiator during winter and an external (in the same room) active radiator during summer, but I dropped the idea because it was not feasible. Leaving the liquid idle for 6 months a year in an unused loop was not a good idea.
> 
> What do you plan to use them for?


Well, it was a quick and dirty way to exclude the heat exchanger from the loop in case of failure 
But these valves are EOL and only 1 piece left...
I have to source a couple of industrial grade 3/2 dry valves but it's going to take a lot of time.
There are so many small tidbits to know that just to be sure I'm ordering the right stuff will take at least one week.


----------



## war4peace

ManniX-ITA said:


> Well, it was a quick and dirty way to exclude the heat exchanger from the loop in case of failure


Makes sense, my MoRa 420 would totally agree.
I can see stock on ModmyMods, or you could go industrial as you have said. Here you can find a variety of such valves.


----------



## ManniX-ITA

war4peace said:


> Makes sense, my MoRa 420 would totally agree.
> I can see stock on ModmyMods, or you could go industrial as you have said. Here you can find a variety of such valves.


Thanks for the tips!

My problem with 2/2 valves is that to exclude a block you need both normally closed and normally open models.
The Alphacool is only available as NC, very few are available also as normally open.
All NC it's problematic; these electromagnets doesn't last long if always on.
Also they produce heat which is never welcome...
It was just a shortcut, but I'm having trouble sourcing stuff with this CV mess, thus I tried to get something to mitigate.

The 3/2 valves are more expensive but only 2 are needed, which is good considering the 2 x 12V 1A limitation.
Also I'd like to exclude anything which is not brass or copper from the loops; dry valves ensure steel or aluminium doesn't get in touch with the fluid.

I'm looking at this one:

https://www.fluidconcept24.de/magne...-2-us-direkt-betatigt-asco-sirai-d344d57.html

It's 12V and only 9W, -10° to +100°, EPDM seal which, as far I could understand from the chemical table, should go nice with Copper, Glycol and more or less all the chemicals eventually in the fluid.
It does need a device plug adapter; there I'm lost, I did send a few questions to this distributor yesterday.
Have no idea if I need a pressure switch setting or not, even what are exactly the differences between all those models of plugs.

Guess also needs an interference suppressor:

https://www.fluidconcept24.de/entstoerglied-ventilstecker-est-a-lv-24-200007409.html

Also it's a G 1/4" connector but I'm not sure if it's threaded or not or same as the usual WC fittings.
I'm not very familiar with plumbing stuff outside computer WC.


----------



## InfoSeeker

sultanofswing said:


> I wonder if the fine gentleman at Aquacomputer ever plan to release a new Aquaero that no longer uses the 5.25" form factor?



Perhaps this has already happened.
Two QUADROs will run most dual loop systems as well as an aquaero, at half the cost, plus you have RGBpx.
The only things you loose are Calitemps, and the hard virtual sensors for instances where one does not want the aquacomputer service running.

An OCTO would be able to do 2 loops if the aquabus port were given the option to also take a 2nd flow sensor input.

As to the non 5.25" form factor, the 6 LT does that?


----------



## Shoggy

ManniX-ITA said:


> Do you think it's possible to drive a pair of electromagnetic ball valves via the 12V PWM output on the aquaero 6?
> 
> https://www.alphacool.com/shop/fitt...-2/2-wege-highflow-elektromagnetventil-12v-dc


You have to use a free-wheeling diode with such electromagnetic ball valves. Otherwise you will damage the aquaero.



sultanofswing said:


> I wonder if the fine gentleman at Aquacomputer ever plan to release a new Aquaero that no longer uses the 5.25" form factor?


5.25" all the way till the sun will explode :medieval:


----------



## ManniX-ITA

Shoggy said:


> You have to use a free-wheeling diode with such electromagnetic ball valves. Otherwise you will damage the aquaero.


I gave up on those valves, instead I'm planning for these:

https://www.fluidconcept24.de/magne...-2-us-direkt-betatigt-asco-sirai-d344d57.html

And they advice to use this interference suppressor:

https://www.fluidconcept24.de/entstoerglied-ventilstecker-est-a-lv-24-200007409.html

I don't now exactly what it does but from the description it seems the same as what a free-wheeling diode would, protecting from spikes.
What do you think?


----------



## war4peace

I was considering using relays to open/close valves, allowing me to keep one loop open, or the other, or both, or even none.


----------



## ManniX-ITA

war4peace said:


> I was considering using relays to open/close valves, allowing me to keep one loop open, or the other, or both, or even none.


That's probably better but I'm onto a very compact build, the form factor is one of the most important requirements for me.
These two valves are already a pain point, I'll have to struggle a bit to fit them in


----------



## Shoggy

ManniX-ITA said:


> I gave up on those valves, instead I'm planning for these:
> 
> https://www.fluidconcept24.de/magne...-2-us-direkt-betatigt-asco-sirai-d344d57.html
> 
> And they advice to use this interference suppressor:
> 
> https://www.fluidconcept24.de/entstoerglied-ventilstecker-est-a-lv-24-200007409.html
> 
> I don't now exactly what it does but from the description it seems the same as what a free-wheeling diode would, protecting from spikes.
> What do you think?


Could work but no idea if it does in the end. You will do this on your own risk.

With a power consumption of 9W this is already a bit questionable and it is not quite clear how their interference suppressor exactly works since there are no further technical details.

Just my personal experience: questions like this usually end in a RMA


----------



## ManniX-ITA

Shoggy said:


> Could work but no idea if it does in the end. You will do this on your own risk.
> 
> With a power consumption of 9W this is already a bit questionable and it is not quite clear how their interference suppressor exactly works since there are no further technical details.
> 
> Just my personal experience: questions like this usually end in a RMA


Thanks for the tips 

I will ask some more technical details about this suppressor.

Do you know what is the maximum power output load per PWM outputs on the aquaero 6?
It is specified in the manual for the Fan outputs but not the PWM.
I see 1 A and 15 kHz carrier frequency but from my limited knowledge it's not enough.

The ports should be switched on only if the cold element temperature raise above the cold loop fluid temperature.
Once the cold element temperature goes below a safe margin, in theory a matter of 1-2 minutes, they would be released.

I was planning anyway to add an Adafruit feather board for other reasons.
I can use a DC motor bridge to drive the valves and the PWM outputs only for the control signal.
But it'd so much easier to, at least at the beginning, use directly the aquaero 6


----------



## war4peace

ManniX-ITA said:


> That's probably better but I'm onto a very compact build, the form factor is one of the most important requirements for me.
> These two valves are already a pain point, I'll have to struggle a bit to fit them in


Aquaero 6 has one relay built-in already. If you only need one, you're already covered. Also, relays are pretty small, here's a related thread (driving solenoid valve using a relay).


----------



## Streetdragon

Now that you are back Shoggy:

My Aquaero has a Problem. Already postet it and more or less ignored it now.

If i try to controll ANY of my fans via PWM it shuts all Fanheaders into Overpowerprotection.

If i controll them over Voltage everything is fine. Even if i push 100% speed. Temps are fine. Its now 4 Years old or so and the Problem began after 2,5-3Years or so


----------



## tistou77

Shoggy said:


> 3.) You can configure most stuff directly from the onboard menu and screen but be warned: it will be painful and frustrating :arrowhead Things that only take a few mouse clicks in the software will become an adventure in the onboard menu. I highly recommend to do the initial setup with a PC.


Can I also use the remote control ?
As easy to use as soft or soft is better ?

Thanks


----------



## jura11

Streetdragon said:


> Now that you are back Shoggy:
> 
> My Aquaero has a Problem. Already postet it and more or less ignored it now.
> 
> If i try to controll ANY of my fans via PWM it shuts all Fanheaders into Overpowerprotection.
> 
> If i controll them over Voltage everything is fine. Even if i push 100% speed. Temps are fine. Its now 4 Years old or so and the Problem began after 2,5-3Years or so



Hi there 

How many fans are you powering from one header? 

How many amps are you seeing at Fans tab in Aquasuite and 50% or 100% ? 

From day one I assume you are run same fans or do you have run other fans?

I got similar problem to yours, one of the header triggers overpowerprotection when I want to run my 9* Phanteks PH-F120MP at more than 30% and more than 800RPM, fans are on connected through the Aquacomputer SPLITTY9 as other fans as well in my loop

My loop currently have 36 fans(Caselabs M8 with pedestal 4*360mm radiators and MO-ra3 360mm)

Fan header 1: 9* Phanteks PH-F120MP 
Fan header 2: 6* Corsair ML120 with 3*Noiseblocker eLoop
Fan header 3: 9* Arctic Cooling P12 PWM
Fan header 4: 9* Arctic Cooling P12 PWM

Its strange issue and my Aquaero 6XT is too 3 year old maybe older a bit
@Shoggy

Any thoughts on this Sebastian? 

Hope this helps 

Thanks, Jura


----------



## InfoSeeker

tistou77 said:


> Can I also use the remote control ?
> As easy to use as soft or soft is better ?
> 
> Thanks



The remote may be better, but only because you do not have to be AT the aquaero face plate to make selections. But it is still a binary option... every screen display is either where you want to be, or you move to the next screen. It is EXTREMELY tedious and frustrating.

If you want the display for aesthetic reasons, fine, but use the aquasuite to control the aquaero.


----------



## Shoggy

ManniX-ITA said:


> Do you know what is the maximum power output load per PWM outputs on the aquaero 6?


The official rating is 1A per channel.



Streetdragon said:


> If i try to controll ANY of my fans via PWM it shuts all Fanheaders into Overpowerprotection.


Which fans do you use? How many of them are connected to a channel? Do you use the software fuse? - If so, please disable it. It is nonsense for regular operation because there is an overload protection that is always working. Using the software fuse will only cause to disable the dynamic overload protection so it is a hard cut at the set value while the dynamic variant takes the load and time into account. This is useful for fans or pumps with a very high starting current.



tistou77 said:


> Can I also use the remote control ?
> As easy to use as soft or soft is better ?


The remote will already speed up things but the software is still much easier and faster to set up the device.



jura11 said:


> I got similar problem to yours, one of the header triggers overpowerprotection when I want to run my 9* Phanteks PH-F120MP at more than 30% and more than 800RPM, fans are on connected through the Aquacomputer SPLITTY9 as other fans as well in my loop
> 
> Any thoughts on this Sebastian?


Have you already tried to move this group of fans to one of the other outputs? If a different output comes up with the same problem you can be quite sure that the fans indeed draw too much power for some reason.
Otherwise, same as mentioned above: disable the software fuse if it is enabled.

I am not Sebastian.


----------



## ManniX-ITA

war4peace said:


> Aquaero 6 has one relay built-in already. If you only need one, you're already covered. Also, relays are pretty small, here's a related thread (driving solenoid valve using a relay).


You are right, I had in mind this picture of bulky relays which probably was coming straight from the '80s 

At the end could be even save space using a relay that small and I wouldn't need anything else.
But, as yous said, there's only one relay port on the aquaero and I have the ATX 24pin adapter for the emergency shutdown to connect there.
I'll probably go this way, sacrifice the ATX adapter at the beginning and later connect the relay to the featherboard.

Thanks a lot for the tip!


----------



## zGunBLADEz

Shoggy said:


> The official rating is 1A per channel.


what about the video of the 20x fans per channel tho>>?? I surely will blow that channel with one of my 6k delta fans no question asked when he wants to pull 60ws just because ...


> Aquaero 6 XT
> Four fan outputs with up to 30 Watt of power per channel


thats barely 3 amps 2.5 to be exactly...
@ 12v /30 watts

it should handle fine .3amp fans up to 6 x channel in the safe side.. at full speed. and it should be active cooled too..
more than that in the long run can be trouble in some setups..

what fans were those>>? .3a x 3 would be aroundish 1amp you can squeeze a 4th one there cutting short bit extra..


----------



## GTXJackBauer

I always thought each channel was 2.5 Amps (30 Watts) and slightly more if enough cooling is there.


----------



## Shoggy

@zGunBLADEz and @GTXJackBauer

You guys are talking about the fan outputs but the initial question was about the two 2-pin PWM outputs and they are rated for 1A.


----------



## GTXJackBauer

Shoggy said:


> @zGunBLADEz and @GTXJackBauer
> 
> You guys are talking about the fan outputs but the initial question was about the two 2-pin PWM outputs and they are rated for 1A.


:thumb:


----------



## tistou77

Shoggy said:


> The official rating is 1A per channel.


So, only 12W ? Not 30W ?
Oh ok, it's for 2pin 


Shoggy said:


> The remote will already speed up things but the software is still much easier and faster to set up the device.


Ok thanks


----------



## ManniX-ITA

Shoggy said:


> The official rating is 1A per channel.



Yes I found it in the manual with a carrier frequency of 15 kHz. But what is the duty cycle?
AFAIK if the duty cycle is 50% then the maximum power output per port is 6W, while at 75% would be 9W.
Maybe there's a standard duty cycle value in these cases and I don't know it?


----------



## skupples

i mean, yeah, you can "use" the remote. 

awesome remote, tbh.


----------



## Streetdragon

i have the problem with and without the software fuse thingy.

i have 12x Scythe Grand Flex PWM 2400rpm
6 on header 1. 6 on header 2
Header 3 has one 200mm fan
header 4 has two or three fans.

When i only one header to pwm, all header go into overcurrent. For example i enable it on header 4(all pwm fans) it triggers 1+2+3+4.
Well xD

when i push over 80% fanspeed on header 1 or 2 it draws like 2,2A from the header and jumps to protection

After 10-15seconds the overcurrent kicks in^^ Bought it on the 25.10.2017


----------



## skupples

^^ is why i've always offloaded power, and only take tach/rpm from the aquaero.

yes, it can handle some fans... but i like making my stuff last for as long as possible.


----------



## sultanofswing

I'm running a total of 17 fans (3 NF-A12x25PWM and 14 Artic P12PWM_PST)on channels 1,3 and 4.
I run those channels at 95% at idle without any issues.
Those 3 channels sit at 31-32c.

Maybe I got lucky?


----------



## zGunBLADEz

Shoggy said:


> @zGunBLADEz and @GTXJackBauer
> 
> You guys are talking about the fan outputs but the initial question was about the two 2-pin PWM outputs and they are rated for 1A.


Still my question remains the 20x fans per channel video specs. Kind of missleading for [email protected] x channel.. 
No good on the long run to run constant max amp or above even if is active cooled.


----------



## skupples

would depend on the fan I think.

trying to see if I still have documentation of how i set it up before I split the power off.

pretty sure I dropped 10-15 AP15s per channel on 1, 2, & 3, n combined my dual pump to #4 hub. dual pump has always been wired for external power. 


my Aquaero 6 is @ 2129 days of up time. woot.


----------



## Shawnb99

I'm running 16 Notcua NFA12's on a single channel, though that's off a Quadro. Only 287 days of uptime for me


----------



## jura11

sultanofswing said:


> I'm running a total of 17 fans (3 NF-A12x25PWM and 14 Artic P12PWM_PST)on channels 1,3 and 4.
> I run those channels at 95% at idle without any issues.
> Those 3 channels sit at 31-32c.
> 
> Maybe I got lucky?


You mean 17 fans on channel or are you running total 17 fans on 1,2 and 4

I'm running in total 38 fans I think on all 4 channels(in previous reply I said I'm running 36 fans in total but forgot on 2 140mm fans hahaha) 

Fan header 1: 9* Phanteks PH-F120MP 
Fan header 2: 6* Corsair ML120 with 3*Noiseblocker eLoop
Fan header 3: 9* Arctic Cooling P12 PWM
Fan header 4: 9* Arctic Cooling P12 PWM plus 2* Arctic Cooling P14 PWM or Phanteks PH-F140MP

Channel 1 is set to PWM, Channel 2 is PWM, Channel 3 is set to PWM and Channel 4 is set to PWM

At 99% power I think I have seen max amp 1.40A on channel 1 or 2, these fans do have highest power draw or amperage at max speed

Channel 2 have amperage I think something like 0.65A,Channel 4 have amperage 0.88A 

If you are lucky, hard to say there

My Aquacomputer Aquaero 6XT have uptime 1133 days


Hope this helps 

Thanks, Jura


----------



## skupples

all about the total amperage per header, right?


----------



## jura11

Shoggy said:


> The official rating is 1A per channel.
> 
> 
> Which fans do you use? How many of them are connected to a channel? Do you use the software fuse? - If so, please disable it. It is nonsense for regular operation because there is an overload protection that is always working. Using the software fuse will only cause to disable the dynamic overload protection so it is a hard cut at the set value while the dynamic variant takes the load and time into account. This is useful for fans or pumps with a very high starting current.
> 
> 
> The remote will already speed up things but the software is still much easier and faster to set up the device.
> 
> 
> Have you already tried to move this group of fans to one of the other outputs? If a different output comes up with the same problem you can be quite sure that the fans indeed draw too much power for some reason.
> Otherwise, same as mentioned above: disable the software fuse if it is enabled.
> 
> I am not Sebastian.


Hi @Shoggy

Thanks for reply

No fuse or anything like that have enabled in Aquasuite or Aquaero what I remember 

At 99% power I think I have seen max amp 1.40A on channel 1 or 2, these fans do have highest power draw or amperage at max speed

Channel 2 have amperage I think something like 0.65A,Channel 4 have amperage 0.88A 

In watts that's something like 12w per channel maybe less don't remember now, temperatures of channels are quite low 25-30°C as max

Uptime of my Aquaero 6XT is 1133 days which 3 years plus some weeks on top of that

Usually when I'm trying to run on these 2 channels(1 and 2) fans in higher speeds usually its triggers overpowerprotection and it will disable fan output and therefore fans will stop, happen to me few times when I rendered or when I used [email protected]


Strange is usually voltage on PWM voltage fluctuating in 10.8-11.6V, currently running Aquaero 6XT from separate Molex, previously on same Molex I have connected 2 DDC 3.2 PWM 18W pumps and 5.25 USB 3.0 external bay, now power doesn't fluctuating, stays at 11.8V under load or at 99%

Power supply is Superflower 8pack 2000w abd I don't think its problem with that, powering 4 GPUs and 5960x with 4.7GHz and 10 SATA drives(4*3TB,1*4TB,1*6TB,1*8TB and 2*2TB Samsung SSD, 1*TB another SSD Crucial) 

Uptime of Aquaero 6XT is 1133 days

Swapped fan headers few times, I thought so one of the headers or output are getting wonky but happened on all 4 outputs 

Yesterday I put fans which are drawing most of the current on powered fan splitters and seems no issues now running fans at 99% but didn't tested that with SPLITTY9 and separate Molex power for Aquaero, will do tests later on again 

And sorry for mistaken yours name there

Hope this helps 

Thanks, Jura


----------



## jura11

skupples said:


> all about the total amperage per header, right?


Yes in my case there, highest amperage per header or output in my case what I'm seeing 

Channel 1 max amperage/current at 99% fans speed 1.40A

Channel 2 max amperage/current at 99% fans speed 1.40A

Channel 3 max amperage/current at 99% fans spreed 0.65A

Channel 4 max amperage/current at 99% fans speed 0.88A

Max rating for max current should be in 2.5A I think or 30W per channel or output and I don't think I'm hitting such current on my outputs or headers

Its strange issue there

Its started to happening after updating to new Aquasuite, been for while using Aquasuite 2016 or 2018 and no issues but after updating to X, Aquasuite is crashing etc and now this issue 

Hope this helps 

Thanks, Jura


----------



## war4peace

skupples said:


> my Aquaero 6 is @ 2129 days of up time. woot.


Only 929 days here... I bought mine less than 3 years ago, so there's that.


----------



## ManniX-ITA

I've got the new pumps finally but I'm a bit puzzled.

The new Eisbaer LT has a reported speed at 12V of 2757 rpm; the previous LT pump was reporting over 5000 rpm, once I realized it was faulty over 9000 rpm.
I guess this value is in line; the problem is the flow, lower than I expected.

12V - 17,1 l/h
10V - 13,4 l/h
8V - no flow reported

This while having in the same loop the other pump; it's a Laing DDC-1T Plus PWM.

The Laing reports these flow rate with the following PWM values:

28% - 18 l/h
33% - 27,1 l/h
45% - 59 l/h
66% - 103,4 l/h

Inside the Eisbaer LT there' s DC-LT 2600 pump.

Do you think it's normal that at full speed it can only move a fifth of the DDC-1T?

Also I wonder if it's normal the flow meter, the Aqua n. 53061, does not report anything at 8V with the DC-LT 2600.
Is there a lower margin below which it's not able to report flow at all?


----------



## war4peace

The Eisbaer LT is a VERY slow pump. It has a rated flow of 100L/min when running solo, without a loop. It also has a head pressure of 0.6m which is VERY low.
Tech specs.


----------



## ManniX-ITA

war4peace said:


> The Eisbaer LT is a VERY slow pump. It has a rated flow of 100L/min when running solo, without a loop. It also has a head pressure of 0.6m which is VERY low.
> Tech specs.


Yeah I know it's very slow; it's also ultra low noise, main requirement 
But I have no reference to judge if it's working as expected.
In the manual it's actually rated as 70 liter per hour.
I'd wish that someone could confirm the values are in the correct range.

BTW The DDC-1T Plus at 33% is less noisy and almost double the flow. 
It's bigger yes, but not that much; wouldn't say the 2600 it's a great pump at all, thumbs down.


----------



## skupples

i think you might also distort results due to having two different speed pumps running at the same time. are you shuttering one when testing the other?

draw a mental image of a faster pump pushing water into a slower pump, etc. i think the slower pump would just add restriction and not benefit flow much (yes, we know. redundancy!)


----------



## indyjones

Bit of a random question, but has anybody tried or known of anyone who has run their Aquaero screen via a wired extension from the main unit please? Where I am thinking of mounting the screen, it does not have the clearance for the assembled unit, and where it's a standard 24pin connector I was thinking of wiring an extension lead on my 6 XT. It does not need to very long.


----------



## skupples

its come up a few times. people have adapted ribbon cables (not sure if Aqua makes one these days) and I believe they found the range of said cable is quite limited.


----------



## war4peace

ManniX-ITA said:


> Yeah I know it's very slow; it's also ultra low noise, main requirement
> But I have no reference to judge if it's working as expected.
> In the manual it's actually rated as 70 liter per hour.
> I'd wish that someone could confirm the values are in the correct range.
> 
> BTW The DDC-1T Plus at 33% is less noisy and almost double the flow.
> It's bigger yes, but not that much; wouldn't say the 2600 it's a great pump at all, thumbs down.


I have dual-D5 pumps in a volute and I can barely hear them. The 4x 230mm fans running at 400 RPM, those I can barely hear, but I can't hear the pumps (at 100%). BTW my flow rate is 313 L/h with the above setup.
Getting a weak pump because "others are noisy" is not backed up by actual facts, just saying.


----------



## skupples

the only noisy pumps are DDCs on high speed. Specially if you fail to prevent your pumps from resonating your case.


CLCs don't count, almost all of them use absolute garbage bottom barrel $1 a piece in bulk pumps.


----------



## indyjones

skupples said:


> its come up a few times. people have adapted ribbon cables (not sure if Aqua makes one these days) and I believe they found the range of said cable is quite limited.


Thank i shall give it a try  It does not need to be that long maybe 15-20cm


----------



## ManniX-ITA

skupples said:


> i think you might also distort results due to having two different speed pumps running at the same time. are you shuttering one when testing the other?
> 
> draw a mental image of a faster pump pushing water into a slower pump, etc. i think the slower pump would just add restriction and not benefit flow much (yes, we know. redundancy!)


Yep, those numbers are one pump at the time.
I did run briefly both together with the DDC at lowest speed and the 2600 adds max 10 l/h.
Indeed I guess it's not the best running 2 very different pumps at the same time.



war4peace said:


> I have dual-D5 pumps in a volute and I can barely hear them. The 4x 230mm fans running at 400 RPM, those I can barely hear, but I can't hear the pumps (at 100%). BTW my flow rate is 313 L/h with the above setup.
> Getting a weak pump because "others are noisy" is not backed up by actual facts, just saying.


It's on my list the D5, thanks for the feedback 
I'm doing prototyping now and the Eisbaer LT just fits the task.
The DDC is indeed very noisy at full speed, it starts being noticeable at 2500 rpm and annoying at 3200 rpm; at full speed it's quite terrible.
And it's not even yet inside the case. The D5 seems vastly superior in every aspect.


----------



## jura11

Running 2*Laing DDC 3.25 18W pump with Aquacomputer Dual DDC pump top and they're mounted on Aquacomputer Shoggy sandwich and no issues with noise plus running XSPC D5 Vario pump at full speed and both DDC are running at full speed and absolutely no issues with noise 

Hope this helps 

Thanks, Jura


----------



## war4peace

ManniX-ITA said:


> The DDC is indeed very noisy at full speed, it starts being noticeable at 2500 rpm and annoying at 3200 rpm; at full speed it's quite terrible.


Not necessarily. I have a DDC 3.25 from EKWB running in my wife's mITX build and it sits on a modified Shoggy Sandwich, you can't hear it unless you are very close to the case, listen intently and manage to ignore the awful mini-fan on the X570 motherboard's chipset.
The way you install it is indeed more important than in case of a D5 pump, but as far as noise goes, it can be pretty quiet.


----------



## GTXJackBauer

DDCs were always known to be more audible than D5s. I've had both and it's a night and day difference. I can barely hear my D5s atm @ 90% PWM while the DDCs were surely audible @ 40% PWM, let alone 100%.

Also, you have to be careful with some of these 'lite' pumps. They could be equivalent to AIO pumps which are very weak compared to premium pumps.


----------



## ManniX-ITA

I guess we are talking about different models, this is the one I got:

https://www.alphacool.com/shop/pumps/pumps-laing/17525/laing-ddc-pump-12v-ddc-1t-plus-pwm?c=20561

And there's no way that this one could be quiet even with a perfect mounting.
In comparison the Phobya DC2-400 PWM, the half an hour which lasted, was almost inaudible at full speed.
Shaking like a kitchen mixer but very quiet.


----------



## skupples

well, that top doesn't help things one bit. whatever the output is, it'll be better with a good top.


----------



## zGunBLADEz

its easy to add external source of power if needed with a split +/- straight from psu


----------



## ManniX-ITA

skupples said:


> well, that top doesn't help things one bit. whatever the output is, it'll be better with a good top.


I don't think I can change the top, it's fitted on this 5,25" reservoir bay:

https://www.alphacool.com/shop/rese...ool-repack-laing-ddc-5-25-bay-station?c=20615

PS: 5,25" bay slots forever


----------



## skupples

classic! yeah, the top is integrated into the reservoir somehow.

there's actually good news here - your pump is so weak it'll likely never cause gulping or vortexing in that res


----------



## ManniX-ITA

skupples said:


> classic! yeah, the top is integrated into the reservoir somehow.
> 
> there's actually good news here - your pump is so weak it'll likely never cause gulping or vortexing in that res


eheheh very likely! seems even at the lowest speed is already doing well enough so shouldn't be an issue


----------



## Shoggy

Streetdragon said:


> When i only one header to pwm, all header go into overcurrent. For example i enable it on header 4(all pwm fans) it triggers 1+2+3+4.


I will have to talk to our electronic technician but I already assume that the voltage/current monitoring chip on your aquaero is damaged. If you have some good soldering skills or know someone, you could replace it yourself. Otherwise you would have to send in the device.



zGunBLADEz said:


> Still my question remains the 20x fans per channel video specs. Kind of missleading for [email protected] x channel..
> No good on the long run to run constant max amp or above even if is active cooled.


Not sure what you are asking for. The aquaero 6 can handle 2.5A per fan output and can do 3.0A per fan output when using the passive heatsink.
The fans in the video were our airstream fans that are not available anymore since quite a long time now. Their official rating was 0.18A.



jura11 said:


> Its started to happening after updating to new Aquasuite, been for while using Aquasuite 2016 or 2018 and no issues but after updating to X, Aquasuite is crashing etc and now this issue


When you came from a very old firmware version it could explain your problem. Old versions were not monitoring huge loads correctly and were way too tolerant. It was fixed a while ago and when you updated lately your aquaero also has this fix now. So the problem was very likely already there before but the older firmware interpreted it as OK while it was supposed to be not OK.



ManniX-ITA said:


> Also I wonder if it's normal the flow meter, the Aqua n. 53061, does not report anything at 8V with the DC-LT 2600.


I don't know the flow rate of this pump at low voltage but the flow meter with the smaller diameter is pretty accurate even at low flow rates. It should easily work with flow rates of only 20 l/h.



indyjones said:


> Bit of a random question, but has anybody tried or known of anyone who has run their Aquaero screen via a wired extension from the main unit please? Where I am thinking of mounting the screen, it does not have the clearance for the assembled unit, and where it's a standard 24pin connector I was thinking of wiring an extension lead on my 6 XT. It does not need to very long.


It is possible but not recommend. We use an extension cable in the GIGANT radiator since there is not enough space available to install a completely assembled aquaero. The cable is something about 20 cm and should not be much longer because otherwise the communication between the controller and display will fail.
The extension is no regular article for sale but you can get a quotation for it on request.


----------



## Streetdragon

a damaged chip. Can you provide some screens wich chip is the problem?
Its now running for 875Days. And without a controller i cant use my rig^^


----------



## war4peace

Shoggy said:


> We use an extension cable in the GIGANT radiator


BTW... do you still make the GIGANT?


----------



## sakete

Is there a dual-top for the Aquacomputer D5 pumps? Currently using a D5 NEXT + Aqualis res + AQ pump top, and will once I add a GPU block and a second rad, add a second pump to ensure enough flow at minimal noise levels. So I can either have water flow from the first pump into the second pump and then into the rest of the loop, or use a dual-top. And preferably I'd want to keep using the Aqualis res + pump top.


----------



## InfoSeeker

war4peace said:


> BTW... do you still make the GIGANT?



Still listed in their SHOP.


----------



## skupples

always figured I could build one for less than half. only difference is i'd probably use wood.


----------



## war4peace

InfoSeeker said:


> Still listed in their SHOP.


Last time I checked, a few months ago, it was listed with a lead time of 180 days, so I assumed it's EOL.
A few years ago I was really into getting one but eventually I settled with a MoRa 420. Thing is, if the GIGANT 3360 can passively dissipate 1KW of heat, I'm game, but I am not willing to spend all that money just to find out. I could find exactly zero reviews...


----------



## ManniX-ITA

The aquasuite X update service needs some serious fixing; I don't see anything about it in the changelog for X.14.
I was checking the power plan to squeeze some bits of savings and found out my idle power consumption was 30W above the usual.
Checking the processes quickly revealed the culprit; the aqua service was stuck at 100% cpu usage on a single core.

Indeed when I opened it the UI was crawling and it offered me to install the X.14 update.
Now it's back to normal but I hope the next update will go smoother


----------



## Asunder

Another quick question, I'm trying to figure out some more stuff I hope it's alright:

If I want to connect 3 fans through a controller to the aquastream ultimate do I use the BUS port? Does this make it control the fan RPM independently by water temp reading? 
Also, do you recommend a splitty9 or an octo? Do those work only if I get an Aquaero? 

I've been looking through a bunch of manuals on the website but I'm kinda' confused where to look, the brochure mentions the BUS port can be used for Aquaero but idk if it's okay for fan splitters.


----------



## Bartdude

Asunder said:


> Another quick question, I'm trying to figure out some more stuff I hope it's alright:
> 
> If I want to connect 3 fans through a controller to the aquastream ultimate do I use the BUS port? Does this make it control the fan RPM independently by water temp reading?
> Also, do you recommend a splitty9 or an octo? Do those work only if I get an Aquaero?
> 
> I've been looking through a bunch of manuals on the website but I'm kinda' confused where to look, the brochure mentions the BUS port can be used for Aquaero but idk if it's okay for fan splitters.


First it depends on what make/model and type of fan you want to use? Splitty9 is just a fan splitter and will only see the first fan rpm, ideal if you wish to use 3/6 fans on a rad connected to one PWM fan header on Aquero/ Octo or Quadro. Both Octo and Quadro can be setup and control fans without the use of Aquero. Aquabus is just for connecting devices to Aquero once they have been setup via USB. If you want separate rpm for each fan you would have to connect them to individual PWM fan headers on the Aquero/Octo or Quadro. Aquero and Quadro have 4 PWM fan headers, Octo has 8.


----------



## Asunder

Bartdude said:


> First it depends on what make/model and type of fan you want to use? Splitty9 is just a fan splitter and will only see the first fan rpm, ideal if you wish to use 3/6 fans on a rad connected to one PWM fan header on Aquero/ Octo or Quadro. Both Octo and Quadro can be setup and control fans without the use of Aquero. Aquabus is just for connecting devices to Aquero once they have been setup via USB. If you want separate rpm for each fan you would have to connect them to individual PWM fan headers on the Aquero/Octo or Quadro. Aquero and Quadro have 4 PWM fan headers, Octo has 8.



Hey, thanks for the input! I'm not sure yet which fans I'm going to use because it depends a lot on what I have left once I get angular fittings and the controller/cables, I would say bionic eloops or arctic P12 fans (120mm). I'm just looking for a functional way of connecting 3 radiator fans to the pump so that the Aquastream will control the fan RPM based on its water temperature reading. I'm not really knowledgeable when it comes to the circuitry/connectivity so I don't really know what I need exactly. I thought maybe I could use a splitty9 or an octo hooked up to the pump to control the 3 radiator fans. 

So far I have an aquastream (the one with temp sensor) + aquainlet, a 360 radiator and an alarm cable for the pump. I don't have a quadro or an aquaero yet, trying to figure out if I need those right now to make it work.


----------



## InfoSeeker

Asunder said:


> Another quick question, I'm trying to figure out some more stuff I hope it's alright:
> 
> If I want to connect 3 fans through a controller to the aquastream ultimate do I use the BUS port? Does this make it control the fan RPM independently by water temp reading?
> Also, do you recommend a splitty9 or an octo? Do those work only if I get an Aquaero?
> 
> I've been looking through a bunch of manuals on the website but I'm kinda' confused where to look, the brochure mentions the BUS port can be used for Aquaero but idk if it's okay for fan splitters.



No, you cannot use the aquabus port on the aquastream for fan control. The aquabus port is only to connect the aquastream to an aquaero, which essentially slaves the aquastream to the aquaero.

You cannot connect an octo or quadro to the aquastream. If you want multiple fans to run from the fan port, you would need a fan splitter (i.e. splitty9). But you could use a quadro or octo separately to control your fans in the aquasuite, and not have them connected to the aquastream.

In looking at the product page of the aquastream ultra (I do not have one), it says:
"Integrated fan controller: Intelligent controller for silent operation of your system.
Maximum heat dissipation when needed, minimum noise during normal operation - the aquastream XT fan controller offers both. Unseen by the user, the implementation of a fully fledged PID controller has only one goal: Keep your system exactly at the temperature that you wish for while keeping fan noise levels down to the minimum. The PID controller is updated more than 1000 times per second, measuring fan speed and adjusting power output. *The fan output delivers a precise analog voltage - not a chopped PWM voltage resulting in additional fan noise*. (highlighting mine)

Not sure, but it sounds like the aquastream does NOT do PWM... again, I do not have one, confirmation required.




Asunder said:


> Hey, thanks for the input! I'm not sure yet which fans I'm going to use because it depends a lot on what I have left once I get angular fittings and the controller/cables, I would say bionic eloops or arctic P12 fans (120mm). I'm just looking for a functional way of connecting 3 radiator fans to the pump so that the Aquastream will control the fan RPM based on its water temperature reading. I'm not really knowledgeable when it comes to the circuitry/connectivity so I don't really know what I need exactly. I thought maybe I could use a splitty9 or an octo hooked up to the pump to control the 3 radiator fans.
> 
> So far I have an aquastream (the one with temp sensor) + aquainlet, a 360 radiator and an alarm cable for the pump. I don't have a quadro or an aquaero yet, trying to figure out if I need those right now to make it work.



If you only want to connect 3 fans to the aquastream, the splitty9 is probably your best option, it should work for PWM or analog controlled fans.

Not having an aquastream I am not familiar with it in the aquasuite. But knowing the aquasuite software, once you have the auqastream USB port connected to your motherboard, you should have a tab for the aquastream in the aquasuite where you can monitor the pump and set fan control parameters.

The important item you need to clear up is whether the fan port does PWM, as that will determine the fan type you need.
The aquastream ultimate product page does claim PWM capability.


----------



## Asunder

InfoSeeker said:


> No, you cannot use the aquabus port on the aquastream for fan control. The aquabus port is only to connect the aquastream to an aquaero, which essentially slaves the aquastream to the aquaero.
> 
> You cannot connect an octo or quadro to the aquastream. If you want multiple fans to run from the fan port, you would need a fan splitter (i.e. splitty9). But you could use a quadro or octo separately to control your fans in the aquasuite, and not have them connected to the aquastream.
> *The fan output delivers a precise analog voltage - not a chopped PWM voltage resulting in additional fan noise*. (highlighting mine)
> 
> Not sure, but it sounds like the aquastream does NOT do PWM... again, I do not have one, confirmation required.
> 
> If you only want to connect 3 fans to the aquastream, the splitty9 is probably your best option, it should work for PWM or analog controlled fans.
> 
> Not having an aquastream I am not familiar with it in the aquasuite. But knowing the aquasuite software, once you have the auqastream USB port connected to your motherboard, you should have a tab for the aquastream in the aquasuite where you can monitor the pump and set fan control parameters.
> 
> The important item you need to clear up is whether the fan port does PWM, as that will determine the fan type you need.
> The aquastream ultimate product page does claim PWM capability.


First of all excuse my lack of knowledge, I actually couldn't figure it out. So you mean, essentially, if I connect a fan splitter (splitty9) to the motherboard, and the Aquastream is connected to the motherboard, I can set the fan speed according to the water temperature in Aquacomputer's software? I thought that is only possible if you have a certain intermediary like an Aquaero. 

Also, the pump itself has 3 fan ports, but based on what I've been told, it does not have enough power for 3 medium speed fans so I can't use those.


----------



## Tellik

First I'd like to start off by saying I've attempted to do all the research, including reading the manuals, I could before bothering people about my questions. I've even attempted emailing support to get some answers, and while most people have been helpful, I'm still left with a bunch of questions without answers. 

I'm putting together a new computer with a dual loop system (one for GPUs and one for CPU), and I would ultimately like everything to be controlled by Aquaero. Right now I have a parts list of:

Aquaero 6 Pro - AQ-53145
Passive Heatsink Aquaero 6 Black - AQ-53164
Aquaero 6 Black Face Plate - AQ-53091 (Yes, I know you can get it already in Black, but I want to buy everything from one site and PPCS only has it in silver.)
Aquacomputer Real Time Clock Module - AQ-53127 (Probably not going to be able to use this with the X4.)
Quadro - AQ-53256 (x2)
Aquabus Cable 4-Pin - AQ-53122 (x2)
Aquabus Y-Cable 4-Pin - AQ-53124 (Possible x2 if I want to use the RTC module.)
Aquastream XT Standard - AQ-41059 (x2)
Aquacomputer Flow Sensor - AQ-53068 (x2)
Connection Flow Sensor Cable - AQ-53212 (x2)
Flow Temperature Sensor - AQ-53067 (x4)

I think that's everything I need and want, but I'm not sure. My ultimate goal is to have two loops independently managed, each loop with 4 radiator fans, one pump, two temperature flow sensors, and a flow rate sensor. I want to be able to monitor and manage pump and fan speeds on a temperature basis for each loop. Additionally, I would like to be able to use a temperature sensor to measure internal case temperatures, and control the case fans.

My first thought was to use one quadro per loop, connected to the Aquaero via the aquabus network, where each quadro would manage the 4 radiator fans, and take input from the loop flow sensor as well as the two loop temperature sensors. Each pump would directly connect to the Aquaero. Then I would plug the rest of the fans into the Aquaero directly as well as the temperature sensor for the case internal temperature to manage those. The only issue with this I see is that there's no way to connect the pumps to the aquabus unless I split the cables 4 times, having one go to each pump and quadro. One thing I found was the Aquabus X4 that should be able to be used, then I wouldn't need any Y cables and could plug that into the Aquaero, then I'd have four aquabus connection points ready to go. Though if I read correctly, I wouldn't be able to mount the real time clock module at the same time as this, and would need to mount it separately and attach it to the aquabus network.


----------



## anr11

Why do you want to do dual loops? If you're thinking you'll get better performance, then I would recommend you reconsider as it won't be worth the hassle, expense and added complexity. Just use your second pump for redundancy. On the other hand if it's for aesthetics I understand.


----------



## ManniX-ITA

I'm surprised you didn't get these answers via email. I've been overwhelmingly annoying and Sven very patiently answered each time 

I can tell from experience you can use the RTC module with the X4 but you'll need to sacrifice one aquabus port on the X4 for it.
We agreed the following to be added to the description of both items to avoid someone else falling over it:

- A simultaneous installation of the aquabus X4 expansion board and the real time clock module is not possible.
- A simultaneous operation of the aquabus X4 expansion board and the real time clock module is possible. For this purpose, use the connection cable 53122 or 53162 and follow the enclosed instructions.

So add a 53122 cable for this purpose.

You should check how many devices you want to connect to the aquabus and that you get enough ports.
I see plenty of stuff you want to connect there (RTC, pumps, calitemp, quadro) but only one Y cable... adding one X4 it's just enough only for the 4 calitemps.

Calitemp is a more accurate temperature sensor than the normal one; I'd suggest to avoid plugging it directly to a waterblock or a radiator. 
The temperature reading will be influenced by the heat, I had to make a short extension to avoid it.

BTW there are already 4 temp sensors included with the aquaero if you didn't notice.


----------



## Tellik

anr11 said:


> Why do you want to do dual loops? If you're thinking you'll get better performance, then I would recommend you reconsider as it won't be worth the hassle, expense and added complexity. Just use your second pump for redundancy. On the other hand if it's for aesthetics I understand.


It's going to be in a Tower 900 case, and while I have tried thinking about how I could make it into a single loop, aesthetics just wouldn't work too well. Both series, or parallel flow just needlessly clutter things, and I'm fine with things being more complex operationally.


----------



## Tellik

ManniX-ITA said:


> I'm surprised you didn't get these answers via email. I've been overwhelmingly annoying and Sven very patiently answered each time


When I contacted Aquatuning support, I basically just got some random customer support person. I tried a few other people, but haven't heard back from them in a few days.



ManniX-ITA said:


> I can tell from experience you can use the RTC module with the X4 but you'll need to sacrifice one aquabus port on the X4 for it.
> 
> We agreed the following to be added to the description of both items to avoid someone else falling over it:
> 
> - A simultaneous installation of the aquabus X4 expansion board and the real time clock module is not possible.
> - A simultaneous operation of the aquabus X4 expansion board and the real time clock module is possible. For this purpose, use the connection cable 53122 or 53162 and follow the enclosed instructions.
> 
> So add a 53122 cable for this purpose.
> 
> You should check how many devices you want to connect to the aquabus and that you get enough ports.


Yeah, that's kind of the impression I was getting from reading about the X4. The RTC module isn't too vital, since I can't think of any situations (at least not yet) of why I would need the function. When I initially looked at piecing together the components, I figured it'd be nice to have that function available, even if I didn't use it. I figure if I did go that route, I would just have to tie a Y cable in there after all, but one thing I did read that made me wonder. The manual mentions a limit for aquabus devices, but I didn't actually find an actual number for that limit.



ManniX-ITA said:


> I see plenty of stuff you want to connect there (RTC, pumps, calitemp, quadro) but only one Y cable... adding one X4 it's just enough only for the 4 calitemps.
> 
> Calitemp is a more accurate temperature sensor than the normal one; I'd suggest to avoid plugging it directly to a waterblock or a radiator.
> The temperature reading will be influenced by the heat, I had to make a short extension to avoid it.
> 
> BTW there are already 4 temp sensors included with the aquaero if you didn't notice.


When I saw the pictures of the temperature sensors plugged directly into the radiators and blocks, that's how I was envisioning it. But from what you're saying it sounds like I should place them in the middle of the loop runs somewhere where they get more of the steady state flow than the transient input or output flow?

I might not need the calitemp sensors then. Would you happen to know what the accuracy differences are from them? And now that I'm looking, I actually did completely miss how the Aquearo came with 4 temperature sensors. Are these the AQ-53026?


----------



## Shawnb99

The accuracy between a calitemp and a normal one is minimal if at all, not worth getting more then one. 
If you need more Aquabus channels just use a Splitty9 and change the jumper. That should give you 5 more Aquabus channels

BTW I have 4 calitemp senors and like 11 normal temp ones and the difference is least then 1 degree at best


----------



## Tellik

Shawnb99 said:


> The accuracy between a calitemp and a normal one is minimal if at all, not worth getting more then one.
> If you need more Aquabus channels just use a Splitty9 and change the jumper. That should give you 5 more Aquabus channels
> 
> BTW I have 4 calitemp senors and like 11 normal temp ones and the difference is least then 1 degree at best


Ah, now that definitely is some useful information there. If it's only a degree or two, well that's just margin of error really. If it was upwards of five or so then I could see it being useful, especially if you were to operate at or near a temperature limit. 

One thing I noticed with the X4 is that it includes a chipset which strengthens the aquabus signal, which the splitty9 doesn't have. While I'm sure that's fine in normal situations, is signal desegregation a concern when operating >4 components? I think I read somewhere that calitemp sensors can't be used on a Y cable splitter, so I imagine it's due to signal strength?


----------



## ManniX-ITA

Tellik said:


> When I contacted Aquatuning support, I basically just got some random customer support person. I tried a few other people, but haven't heard back from them in a few days.
> 
> 
> 
> Yeah, that's kind of the impression I was getting from reading about the X4. The RTC module isn't too vital, since I can't think of any situations (at least not yet) of why I would need the function. When I initially looked at piecing together the components, I figured it'd be nice to have that function available, even if I didn't use it. I figure if I did go that route, I would just have to tie a Y cable in there after all, but one thing I did read that made me wonder. The manual mentions a limit for aquabus devices, but I didn't actually find an actual number for that limit.
> 
> 
> 
> When I saw the pictures of the temperature sensors plugged directly into the radiators and blocks, that's how I was envisioning it. But from what you're saying it sounds like I should place them in the middle of the loop runs somewhere where they get more of the steady state flow than the transient input or output flow?
> 
> I might not need the calitemp sensors then. Would you happen to know what the accuracy differences are from them? And now that I'm looking, I actually did completely miss how the Aquearo came with 4 temperature sensors. Are these the AQ-53026?


I guess they are mostly working from home like anyone else and trying to mitigate the issues...
From my experience contacting in the last month a lot of companies/vendors, they are the best. Seriously, the others are all between the barely acceptable to terrible.
And of course you have direct support here in this thread; you'll get a very concise (truly German  ) but professional answer soon.

In my understanding, the RTC module is needed only if you use it standalone.
I guess otherwise no clock on display and wrong timestamps in the logging data.
I suggest you drop it, it's not going to be nice to find a spot where to hide it.

The limits are in the product page:

_In maximum configuration, the following devices can be connected to an aquaero via aquabus to expand functionality:
4x Calitemp
2x aquaero 5/6 LT
2x QUADRO
1x OCTO
8x poweradjust 2/3
2x aquastream ULTIMATE or aquastream XT pump
2x D5 NEXT pump
4x VISION based products
4x mps based devices (flow sensor, pressure/fill level sensor or D5 pump with aquabus)
2x farbwerk
1x Real Time Clock expansion module

When connecting aquabus devices to expand functionality, overlapping assignments will restrict the maximum number of inputs and outputs that can be used. The aquaero can control a total of:
12 fan outputs
64 temperature sensors
6 pumps
14 flow sensors
4 fill level or pressure sensors
9 RGB outputs
1 relay contact

In case of overlapping assignments, predefined priorities determine which device will be used by the aquaero. Details can be found in the manual, which is also available as a download._

At a glance seems you are well within; but I'd check that giant table for overlapping assignments just to be sure.

Yes I think the included temp sensors are the same as art. 53026.

If you don't know if you need Calitemp or not then you don't need it 
The difference is subtle and only really needed if you could go down or up extreme temperatures or need a high accuracy of 0.2 degrees and a resolution of 0.01.

_Rated absolute accuracy of the digital sensor chip used for Calitemp:
-40 °C to -20 °C: +/- 1 °C
-20 °C to -5 °C: +/- 0.5 °C
-5 °C to 50 °C: +/- 0.2 °C
50 °C to 100 °C: +/- 0.5 °C
100 °C to 125 °C: +/- 1 °C
Sensor resolution: 0.01 °C _

There's a chip inside that reads the sensor data and report it back via the aquabus digital interface.

For comparison, the other normal sensors doesn't have any accuracy or temperature range data available.
They don't have a chip inside; it's usually an NTC sensor connected to a cable and the voltage read by the main electronics, just like the 4 surface temp sensors included.

I think you can take art. 53067 or 53066 instead, depends on how you want to connect them. 
You'll save yourself the hassle to find another 4 aquabus ports.
You can use the 4 available temperature ports for the them, you have 8 in total.

About the positioning it's not the flow, it's the heat transfer.
The casing is metal and the heat is getting through it and alters the water temp reading.
If the block is quite hot, like 50-60 degrees, then the water temp reading will be influenced with an error of +2-3 degrees.

If you plan to measure the power dissipated via the flow sensors and the 2 water temps it's an unacceptable margin.
I made a 10 cm extension to keep it at distance from the block, easy peasy.

It's a mess to get it right from scratch, if you don't know the product already it's very hard. 
Wait for Shoggy's feedback.
I had to make at least 3 or 4 orders to get everything I needed, don't rush it like me


----------



## Tellik

ManniX-ITA said:


> I guess they are mostly working from home like anyone else and trying to mitigate the issues...
> From my experience contacting in the last month a lot of companies/vendors, they are the best. Seriously, the others are all between the barely acceptable to terrible.
> And of course you have direct support here in this thread; you'll get a very concise (truly German  ) but professional answer soon.


I've gotten more useful information from this forum in the few hours I've been here, than I have scouring the web, reddit, and anywhere else I could think to find answers to these questions. For that I thank everyone.



ManniX-ITA said:


> In my understanding, the RTC module is needed only if you use it standalone.
> I guess otherwise no clock on display and wrong timestamps in the logging data.
> I suggest you drop it, it's not going to be nice to find a spot where to hide it.


Yeah. I plan on having visual monitoring through the LCD panel, and don't really need logging for daily usage. As for a spot to hide it, I actually have a lot of room in the back of the case, but I don't think it's worth getting extra things for that I normally won't use.



ManniX-ITA said:


> About the positioning it's not the flow, it's the heat transfer.
> The casing is metal and the heat is getting through it and alters the water temp reading.
> If the block is quite hot, like 50-60 degrees, then the water temp reading will be influenced with an error of +2-3 degrees.
> 
> If you plan to measure the power dissipated via the flow sensors and the 2 water temps it's an unacceptable margin.
> I made a 10 cm extension to keep it at distance from the block, easy peasy.


Oh, I didn't even consider that but it definitely makes sense. I'd definitely have places in the loop itself that I'll be able to shove them so they stay out of that issue.



ManniX-ITA said:


> It's a mess to get it right from scratch, if you don't know the product already it's very hard.
> Wait for Shoggy's feedback.
> I had to make at least 3 or 4 orders to get everything I needed, don't rush it like me


Perfect, thank you. A ton of my questions have been answered, and having a parts list in front of me that actually makes sense now makes me feel a bit better. I'm at the point where I kind of am getting anxious to complete this. I probably should've started the water cooling aspect a bit sooner, but I figured (at the time) that it would be a little bit easier. Then as I started looking into it a bit more, with more and more options available, I realized it was a little more complicated. I really like how they make everything by the component instead of making generic 'packages' that work for some systems but not all.


----------



## ManniX-ITA

Tellik said:


> I've gotten more useful information from this forum in the few hours I've been here, than I have scouring the web, reddit, and anywhere else I could think to find answers to these questions. For that I thank everyone.
> 
> 
> 
> Yeah. I plan on having visual monitoring through the LCD panel, and don't really need logging for daily usage. As for a spot to hide it, I actually have a lot of room in the back of the case, but I don't think it's worth getting extra things for that I normally won't use.
> 
> 
> 
> Oh, I didn't even consider that but it definitely makes sense. I'd definitely have places in the loop itself that I'll be able to shove them so they stay out of that issue.
> 
> 
> 
> Perfect, thank you. A ton of my questions have been answered, and having a parts list in front of me that actually makes sense now makes me feel a bit better. I'm at the point where I kind of am getting anxious to complete this. I probably should've started the water cooling aspect a bit sooner, but I figured (at the time) that it would be a little bit easier. Then as I started looking into it a bit more, with more and more options available, I realized it was a little more complicated. I really like how they make everything by the component instead of making generic 'packages' that work for some systems but not all.


You're welcome, I got a lot of help too here 

Let me be more clear on a couple of points.

You can use the clock and the data logging even without the RTC clock in my understanding.
But it must be connected via USB. I'm not sure if you need also the aquasuite service running.

The heat transfer that can cause up 2-3 degrees error it's in specific conditions; in my scenario it's exacerbated by the low flow.
I'm not sure it's going to be relevant for you with a stronger flow. But just knowing it can be wrong it'd be enough for me 

Yes water cooling it's hard and you need a lot of experience 
Till now I only messed up on friends rigs, cause I'm lazy and I don't like to do maintenance...
But putting up your own it's quite a different beast.


----------



## InfoSeeker

Asunder said:


> First of all excuse my lack of knowledge, I actually couldn't figure it out. So you mean, essentially, if I connect a fan splitter (splitty9) to the motherboard, and the Aquastream is connected to the motherboard, I can set the fan speed according to the water temperature in Aquacomputer's software? I thought that is only possible if you have a certain intermediary like an Aquaero.
> 
> Also, the pump itself has 3 fan ports, but based on what I've been told, it does not have enough power for 3 medium speed fans so I can't use those.



I am not sure which pump you have, could you provide a part#?
I thought you had the aquatream ultra , which has only one fan port.









As to the connections:

 connect the pump's USB port to a USB 2.0 port on the motherboard
 connect a splitty9 to the fan port on the pump (a splitty9 active if the pump hasn't enough power)
 connect power leads from your PSU to the aquastream & the splitty9, if used
 connect a temp sensor to the aquastream temp port to monitor room ambient
 connect a Flow sensor high flow with connection cable, if you want to monitor the flow rate

If the aquastream ultra is the pump you have/are looking at, it does NOT do PWM fan control.


----------



## Bartdude

Tellik said:


> First I'd like to start off by saying I've attempted to do all the research, including reading the manuals, I could before bothering people about my questions. I've even attempted emailing support to get some answers, and while most people have been helpful, I'm still left with a bunch of questions without answers.
> 
> I'm putting together a new computer with a dual loop system (one for GPUs and one for CPU), and I would ultimately like everything to be controlled by Aquaero. Right now I have a parts list of:
> 
> Aquaero 6 Pro - AQ-53145
> Passive Heatsink Aquaero 6 Black - AQ-53164
> Aquaero 6 Black Face Plate - AQ-53091 (Yes, I know you can get it already in Black, but I want to buy everything from one site and PPCS only has it in silver.)
> Aquacomputer Real Time Clock Module - AQ-53127 (Probably not going to be able to use this with the X4.)
> Quadro - AQ-53256 (x2)
> Aquabus Cable 4-Pin - AQ-53122 (x2)
> Aquabus Y-Cable 4-Pin - AQ-53124 (Possible x2 if I want to use the RTC module.)
> Aquastream XT Standard - AQ-41059 (x2)
> Aquacomputer Flow Sensor - AQ-53068 (x2)
> Connection Flow Sensor Cable - AQ-53212 (x2)
> Flow Temperature Sensor - AQ-53067 (x4)
> 
> I think that's everything I need and want, but I'm not sure. My ultimate goal is to have two loops independently managed, each loop with 4 radiator fans, one pump, two temperature flow sensors, and a flow rate sensor. I want to be able to monitor and manage pump and fan speeds on a temperature basis for each loop. Additionally, I would like to be able to use a temperature sensor to measure internal case temperatures, and control the case fans.
> 
> My first thought was to use one quadro per loop, connected to the Aquaero via the aquabus network, where each quadro would manage the 4 radiator fans, and take input from the loop flow sensor as well as the two loop temperature sensors. Each pump would directly connect to the Aquaero. Then I would plug the rest of the fans into the Aquaero directly as well as the temperature sensor for the case internal temperature to manage those. The only issue with this I see is that there's no way to connect the pumps to the aquabus unless I split the cables 4 times, having one go to each pump and quadro. One thing I found was the Aquabus X4 that should be able to be used, then I wouldn't need any Y cables and could plug that into the Aquaero, then I'd have four aquabus connection points ready to go. Though if I read correctly, I wouldn't be able to mount the real time clock module at the same time as this, and would need to mount it separately and attach it to the aquabus network.


Best way to connect everything to Aquabus would be to use a Splitty9 by assigning the jumper on it to Aquabus, less mess that way too.


----------



## Bartdude

InfoSeeker said:


> I am not sure which pump you have, could you provide a part#?
> I thought you had the aquatream ultra , which has only one fan port.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As to the connections:
> 
> connect the pump's USB port to a USB 2.0 port on the motherboard
> connect a splitty9 to the fan port on the pump (a splitty9 active if the pump hasn't enough power)
> connect power leads from your PSU to the aquastream & the splitty9, if used
> connect a temp sensor to the aquastream temp port to monitor room ambient
> connect a Flow sensor high flow with connection cable, if you want to monitor the flow rate
> 
> If the aquastream ultra is the pump you have/are looking at, it does NOT do PWM fan control.


Or is it this one, which according to @Shoggy does do PWM BUT still only three fans via a Y cable or splitty, only 1 fan header on the pump itself


----------



## Tellik

Bartdude said:


> Best way to connect everything to Aquabus would be to use a Splitty9 by assigning the jumper on it to Aquabus, less mess that way too.


How would the separate groups of fans be managed then? You're not able to mix and match fans and Aquabus devices on the same Splitty9 are you? That and I'd still need multiple Splitty9s to accommodate everything.


----------



## Bartdude

Tellik said:


> How would the separate groups of fans be managed then? You're not able to mix and match fans and Aquabus devices on the same Splitty9 are you? That and I'd still need multiple Splitty9s to accommodate everything.


That's correct, it's either one or the other. I personally have 3 splitty9's in my sys. 2x for fan groups, 1 for each rad and 1 for Aquabus. Case fans run from a Quadro. Again I done it that way to cut down on multiple Y cables, also made it easier for all the cables to reach my Aquaero 6 but then I do have a Corsair 900D which is a rather large case.


----------



## ManniX-ITA

Tellik said:


> How would the separate groups of fans be managed then? You're not able to mix and match fans and Aquabus devices on the same Splitty9 are you? That and I'd still need multiple Splitty9s to accommodate everything.


Do you really have to manage each fan individually? Can't you just group them for radiator on one channel?
The aquaero 6 Pro has 4 PWM fan channels already. What do you plan to use them for?

Instead of the X4 you could get one Splitty9 connected to the aquaero or to the RTC Clock module on it if you'll get it; this should handle all you want to connect to aquabus.
Especially if you ditch the Calitemp sensors.


----------



## sultanofswing

Correct me if I am wrong but from what I read Aquabus on the Aquaero is limited to 4 devices correct?


----------



## ManniX-ITA

sultanofswing said:


> Correct me if I am wrong but from what I read Aquabus on the Aquaero is limited to 4 devices correct?


I don't think so... there's one port that can be expanded with splitters.
It can control a lot of aquabus devices at the same time:

_In maximum configuration, the following devices can be connected to an aquaero via aquabus to expand functionality:
4x Calitemp
2x aquaero 5/6 LT
2x QUADRO
1x OCTO
8x poweradjust 2/3
2x aquastream ULTIMATE or aquastream XT pump
2x D5 NEXT pump
4x VISION based products
4x mps based devices (flow sensor, pressure/fill level sensor or D5 pump with aquabus)
2x farbwerk
1x Real Time Clock expansion module_

I count 32 devices on the same bus.


----------



## Bartdude

ManniX-ITA said:


> Do you really have to manage each fan individually? Can't you just group them for radiator on one channel?
> The aquaero 6 Pro has 4 PWM fan channels already. What do you plan to use them for?
> 
> Instead of the X4 you could get one Splitty9 connected to the aquaero or to the RTC Clock module on it if you'll get it; this should handle all you want to connect to aquabus.
> Especially if you ditch the Calitemp sensors.


Ok so I have 6 rad fans connected to 1 splitty9 which then connects to 1 PWM on the Aquaero 6, same for the 2nd rad. Then I use 1 PWM chan for my 2 d5 pumps. The 4th PWM controls my 3 front intake fans. The rest of the case fans are connected to a Quadro. All my devices are still connected to USB via a hubby7, I leave them connected because it's easier to upgrade Aquasuite and firmware. You don't have to use Aquabus, you can use USB, Aquabus or both but all devices must be connected to USB to begin with so the PC and Aquasuite can see them. I use Aquabus so I can control all my fans from one tab in Aquasuite. 

Only reason anyone would want to connect 1 fan per header is if they wanted to have separate rpm signals and speeds but since most fans are connected to a rad you want them all the same speed. That's where my Quadro comes in, for extra PWM. Other than the 3 front intakes the rest of my case fans are singular.

EDIT: Sry Mannix, quoted the wrong person  @Tellik


----------



## sultanofswing

ManniX-ITA said:


> I don't think so... there's one port that can be expanded with splitters.
> It can control a lot of aquabus devices at the same time:
> 
> _In maximum configuration, the following devices can be connected to an aquaero via aquabus to expand functionality:
> 4x Calitemp
> 2x aquaero 5/6 LT
> 2x QUADRO
> 1x OCTO
> 8x poweradjust 2/3
> 2x aquastream ULTIMATE or aquastream XT pump
> 2x D5 NEXT pump
> 4x VISION based products
> 4x mps based devices (flow sensor, pressure/fill level sensor or D5 pump with aquabus)
> 2x farbwerk
> 1x Real Time Clock expansion module_
> 
> I count 32 devices on the same bus.


You're right. I remember now it was 4 MPS devices.


----------



## Tellik

ManniX-ITA said:


> Do you really have to manage each fan individually? Can't you just group them for radiator on one channel?
> The aquaero 6 Pro has 4 PWM fan channels already. What do you plan to use them for?
> 
> Instead of the X4 you could get one Splitty9 connected to the aquaero or to the RTC Clock module on it if you'll get it; this should handle all you want to connect to aquabus.
> Especially if you ditch the Calitemp sensors.


I wasn't planning on managing each fan individually, a group of 4 for each radiator, and a few case fans. That's why originally I was thinking a quadro for each radiator group, and the case fans would be off the PWM channels from the Aquaero.


----------



## ManniX-ITA

Tellik said:


> I wasn't planning on managing each fan individually, a group of 4 for each radiator, and a few case fans. That's why originally I was thinking a quadro for each radiator group, and the case fans would be off the PWM channels from the Aquaero.


I guess then with 1 splitty9 for the aquabus and one quadro you can do everything you need.
On the quadro each channel can pump 25W, according to the description; you could use just 2 channels with each 4 radiator fans and have 2 spare for additional case fans.


----------



## Asunder

Bartdude said:


> Or is it this one, which according to @*Shoggy* does do PWM BUT still only three fans via a Y cable or splitty, only 1 fan header on the pump itself





InfoSeeker said:


> I am not sure which pump you have, could you provide a part#?
> I thought you had the aquatream ultra , which has only one fan port.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If the aquastream ultra is the pump you have/are looking at, it does NOT do PWM fan control.


The pump is the Aquastream Ultimate that Bartdude also mentioned (I found them pretty confusing too, but this is apparently a newer version from the ultra). Sorry that was a stupid mistake on my side, I meant to say the pump supports up to 3 fans according to the specs, it does NOT have 3 fan ports. I totally phrased that wrong. Someone here told me it would exceed the power rating for 3 fans so I will use another power source anyway. 

I got this model because it has an internal temperature sensor so I could avoid the hassle of having to route another fitting. And thank you very muchfor the step by step list, that's really the best I've gotten so far! I'm going to get the Splitty active with it so I can use SATA power.


----------



## Jubijub

Shoggy said:


> When you say like Corsair, then I assume the fans just use the common 4-pin plugs (with only real 3 pins) that can be attached to a mainboard. In this case you will need one RGBpx port per fan or you need some kind of y-cable or splitter (we have none).
> 
> Splitty4 is not necessary for your setup because the LED part is only compatible with Corsair or NZXT fans. You will very likely need this adapter, connection cable (not 53288) and a RGBpx enabled device of course.
> 
> D5 NEXT, QUADRO and farbwerk nano offer one RGBpx port.
> OCTO offers two RGPx ports.
> farbwerk 360 has four of them.
> 
> The aquaero has no RGBpx interface nor can it access such an interface via aquabus.
> 
> When you run Linux you can not use software sensors. So, you have to connect a physical sensor to the controlling device. The farbwerk nano is out of the game here since it has no interface for a sensor. The D5 NEXT also has no interface for an external sensor but it has an internal water temperature sensor that can be also used for the LEDs.
> 
> The aquasuite can not access the LEDs if they are connected elsewhere (mainboard, Corsair device etc.) and the Corsair software can also not access any of our devices or data from the aquasuite.


Thanks for your answer Shoggy!

To your questions :
- the Corsair ML RGB have 2 sets of plugs : classic fan connector for power / PWM signal, and another connector for RGB
- you answered my question : there is no way to expose the virtual sensor used inside the AQ6 (I mean the delta T sensor that I created, which is just a formula Water temp - air temp). That sensor "lives" both in Aquasuite, and also in the AQ6, since my WC regulation works fine even when using Linux. But from your answer I understand that the RGBpx could only access that value from Aquasuite, and not from the AQ6 itself since there is no Aquabus connection between the AQ6 and any RGBpx system.


----------



## RoivonPC

Quick list: 



Aqua D5 pump
Aqua 6LT computer
Aqua Heat sensor
Aqua flow meter
15 x PWM Noctua fans. 

Mod my toys PWM hubs. 




My new rig is currently running air cooled as a bench setup so I can install the OS, Games, and whatever else until I get the rest of the computer built. I'm going to start working on setting up the 6LT next. My question is what's a standard setup that I could use so that the pump is running and the fans turning when I get everything ready? Or is there a default profile that can be used that will give me what I need. I don't want to start the system and have the pump speed set to 0.


----------



## Fluxmaven

RoivonPC said:


> My new rig is currently running air cooled as a bench setup so I can install the OS, Games, and whatever else until I get the rest of the computer built. I'm going to start working on setting up the 6LT next. My question is what's a standard setup that I could use so that the pump is running and the fans turning when I get everything ready? Or is there a default profile that can be used that will give me what I need. I don't want to start the system and have the pump speed set to 0.


Pump speed will be 100% by default. Actually, so will the fans. You can Connect the 6LT to the computer and get Aquasuite installed and run any updates it needs. Then you can make a curve controller and set your data source and outputs for the fan channels. This way when you actually connect everything you don't have to listen to the fans at full blast while getting set up. You're going to want to run the pump at 100% for a while to get all the bubbles out of the loop but after that you can lower it down to whatever works for you.


----------



## sultanofswing

Have a question, does anyone know where the Gauges folder is located?
nvm I think I figured it out.


----------



## InfoSeeker

RoivonPC said:


> Quick list:
> 
> Aqua D5 pump
> Aqua 6LT computer
> Aqua Heat sensor
> Aqua flow meter
> 15 x PWM Noctua fans.
> 
> Mod my toys PWM hubs.
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler
> 
> 
> 
> My new rig is currently running air cooled as a bench setup so I can install the OS, Games, and whatever else until I get the rest of the computer built. I'm going to start working on setting up the 6LT next. My question is what's a standard setup that I could use so that the pump is running and the fans turning when I get everything ready? Or is there a default profile that can be used that will give me what I need. I don't want to start the system and have the pump speed set to 0.



Read THIS THREAD before you get too deep into your build. The Noctua fans may not work with the aquaero 6 PWM control... appears to depend on manufacture date. Newer models have an issue with PWM implementation.


----------



## RoivonPC

What a **** show, most of the thread is a blame game. How can I tell which ones I need to keep an eye for? 





InfoSeeker said:


> Read THIS THREAD before you get too deep into your build. The Noctua fans may not work with the aquaero 6 PWM control... appears to depend on manufacture date. Newer models have an issue with PWM implementation.


----------



## InfoSeeker

RoivonPC said:


> What a **** show, most of the thread is a blame game. How can I tell which ones I need to keep an eye for?



Yes, there were some angry comments, but the bottom line, for me, would be SHOGGY's REPLY. There was also THIS POST and THIS POST that provide some technical background.

As to which Noctua fans are with issue, perhaps Noctua support can best answer that. Looking at Shoggy's post I linked above, it appears Noctua is aware.


Shoggy's post said:


> We do not know what they did there in detail but we know it is causing the problem because it is also Noctua that confirmed that to one of our customers. Their solution was that they offered the customer fans from an older batch that do not suffer from this problem.


----------



## sultanofswing

I currently have 3 NF-A12x25 PWM's that I bought about 3 weeks ago on one of my radiators and they seem to not have any issues.


----------



## Shawnb99

Delete


----------



## RoivonPC

I've been talking with Noctua on twitter, there are apparently issues with the industrial fans but apparently not the Nf-A12x25s that I have.


----------



## Shawnb99

RoivonPC said:


> I've been talking with Noctua on twitter, there are apparently issues with the industrial fans but apparently not the Nf-A12x25s that I have.


Both the 2k and 3kRPM models? I know I had issues with the 3k models. If I connected one fan I could control the RPM's, anything more then that and I could only turn them on or off.


----------



## RoivonPC

Shawnb99 said:


> Both the 2k and 3kRPM models? I know I had issues with the 3k models. If I connected one fan I could control the RPM's, anything more then that and I could only turn them on or off.



Not sure and the Nf-A12x25s don't go up to 3k.


----------



## Shawnb99

RoivonPC said:


> Not sure and the Nf-A12x25s don't go up to 3k.


I know. The Nf-A12x25s work great with the AQ6. I have 16 of them myself. Work great all on one channel


----------



## RoivonPC

Shawnb99 said:


> I know. The Nf-A12x25s work great with the AQ6. I have 16 of them myself. Work great all on one channel



Awesome thanks for the second round of good new I've had today regarding this.


----------



## Shawnb99

RoivonPC said:


> Awesome thanks for the second round of good new I've had today regarding this.


The NF-S12's also work great. I have 9 of those as well.


----------



## skupples

WTB OPTIMUS BLOCK so I can finally get my AquaComputer Splitty 9s and 2nd loop setup. (thought i was gonna full off topic didn't you? 

ohhh. I should get some new radiators. I wonder if the watercooling stores are getting hit hard with panic buying


----------



## ManniX-ITA

skupples said:


> WTB OPTIMUS BLOCK so I can finally get my AquaComputer Splitty 9s and 2nd loop setup. (thought i was gonna full off topic didn't you?
> 
> ohhh. I should get some new radiators. I wonder if the watercooling stores are getting hit hard with panic buying


No panic buying but disruption of the supply chain and late deliveries. It's getting harder and harder to source anything which is not in stock.


----------



## skupples

yep, I insinuated radiator availability would get hit hard by this.

ok fine, 4x 480 multiport WHL ordered.


----------



## RoivonPC

I'm doing a test with some of my fans and the 6LT. I have a mod my toys 4 PWM splitter going into channel 1. First only the RPM of 1 fan is being reported. Is this normal? Second, THAT RPM report keeps jumping up and down despite no discernible difference in RPM output of the fan itself. Is this the nature of PWM splitting?


----------



## ManniX-ITA

RoivonPC said:


> I'm doing a test with some of my fans and the 6LT. I have a mod my toys 4 PWM splitter going into channel 1. First only the RPM of 1 fan is being reported. Is this normal? Second, THAT RPM report keeps jumping up and down despite no discernible difference in RPM output of the fan itself. Is this the nature of PWM splitting?


Yes it's normal only the RPM signal from the first fan is reported. The up and down isn't normal.
But this leads me to a question: how do you know the speed reported it's only from 1 fan?

My guess is either you are not using the special 2-pins only cable and/or you mixed different types of fan, which isn't supported.


----------



## skupples

the modmytoys thing is getting external power right? 

as said above. you'd only want tach/rpm running from the head unit. suppose I should look up which PCB you're talking about. 

you'll need to remove the two unneeded lines in the jumper going from head unit to hub.


----------



## RoivonPC

Here's the hubs, single PWM into 4 PWM. All the fans are identical. I watched a build by Singularity Computers using these hubs (it's where I got the idea to use them) and his Aquasuite fan report was jumping up and down as well.


*edit* 



No idea why the pictures are sideways, they uploaded normally.


----------



## ManniX-ITA

RoivonPC said:


> Here's the hubs, single PWM into 4 PWM. All the fans are identical. I watched a build by Singularity Computers using these hubs (it's where I got the idea to use them) and his Aquasuite fan report was jumping up and down as well.
> ...


I guess is this one:

https://www.performance-pcs.com/diy...tribution-pcb-4-way-block-mmt-pcb-4p-44p.html

In the description says:
"These Power Distributors need a Female to Female PWM *with only the RPM and PWM leads attached* going from the PCB to the MotherBoard PWM Header to controll the PWM function.(Image of cable listed below)"

The cable in your picture looks like it has all the 4 pins attached, can be?

Also on that link you'll find one review which could be related to your issue:

"There is one modification that needs to be made before using this splitter (or any other PWM splitter made by MODMYTOYS). For proper operation, the RPM lead from the first fan only should be connected to the MOBO PWM header. Otherwise, the MOBO will be unable to get an accurate RPM reading and the fans will not run at proper speed, possibly not at all. To fix this, the trace for the RPM lead on the bottom of the PCB must be broken between the fan closest to the socket that goes to the MOBO PWM header and the fan next to that one by carefully scraping a section of it away. That way, only the RPM signal from the first fan will go to the MOBO PWM header."

Not sure this splitter was the right choice... if it really needs a trace cut on the PCB, I'd rather buy something else.


----------



## RoivonPC

I'm not even sure on how to do that without messing it up. Have to look into this one. Suggestions on alternative power splitters?


I suppose a splitty 4?


----------



## ManniX-ITA

RoivonPC said:


> I'm not even sure on how to do that without messing it up. Have to look into this one. Suggestions on alternative power splitters?
> 
> 
> I suppose a splitty 4?


Yeah probably it's the safest bet.
Just to be sure I'd post here the exact model of your Noctua fans to check if they are compatible.


----------



## RoivonPC

NF A12x25 pwm


----------



## skupples

hold on... i need to re-read.... brb.... 

as for the tach issue. only one fan should report tach back to the unit, while all fans get RPM. only the top fan gets RPM & Tach. (please let me know If I totally butchered this, it's been a hot minute since I've had to deal with all of it)

can you send a pic of the back of the PCB?


----------



## RoivonPC

Picture pending if I can cleanly get the cover off.


----------



## skupples

right, so for example.

my dual pump breaks down to 2x to header, 2x to molex. n the harness that bridges the pumps only has tach for one pump. ding ding ding!

that translates to breaking the chain on the hub.


----------



## RoivonPC

Here's the PCB Skupples


The picture loaded on PPCS that shows the 2 wires removed that you suggested.


----------



## Barefooter

ManniX-ITA said:


> Yes it's normal only the RPM signal from the first fan is reported. The up and down isn't normal.
> *But this leads me to a question: how do you know the speed reported it's only from 1 fan?
> *
> My guess is either you are not using the special 2-pins only cable and/or you mixed different types of fan, which isn't supported.


I've never used one of those splitters, but if you have a digital voltmeter you could you could see if you have continuity between pin 4 on the first fan header with the other three. If so you could cut the pin 4 off of the other three headers.

Or you can't go wrong with a *Splitty9* I know they work quite well.


----------



## RoivonPC

I would probably use the Splitty4 so I can go with the clean vision I have planned. However I will break out my volt meter to test this. 





Barefooter said:


> I've never used one of those splitters, but if you have a digital voltmeter you could you could see if you have continuity between pin 4 on the first fan header with the other three. If so you could cut the pin 4 off of the other three headers.
> 
> Or you can't go wrong with a *Splitty9* I know they work quite well.


----------



## skupples

snipping the heads is probably much safer, idk why I never thought of that.

splittys always be sold out.


----------



## sultanofswing

Finally got my Triple pumps setup.
My setup seems pretty restrictive but this is way better than just 1 that I had.









Moved my power supply to the middle that way the pumps could go below it and put the aquaero on top of the Power supply.


----------



## skupples

yeah that's plenty O flo  that's like 2GPM.


----------



## sultanofswing

skupples said:


> yeah that's plenty O flo  that's like 2GPM.


Yea that was my plan, I had to run 1 D5 at 100% to get 204lph. If I dropped it down to 95% flow dropped off hard to like 127lph.

Now with the 3 I can run it them all at 73% and maintain 227lph(1GPM) and dead silent.


----------



## skupples

perfection


----------



## war4peace

The flow is as expected. With dual pumps, same volute, I get 313 L/h on average.


----------



## GTXJackBauer

sultanofswing said:


> Yea that was my plan, I had to run 1 D5 at 100% to get 204lph. If I dropped it down to 95% flow dropped off hard to like 127lph.
> 
> Now with the 3 I can run it them all at 73% and maintain 227lph(1GPM) and dead silent.


:thumb:


----------



## Shoggy

Since I have not much time I just rushed through the last pages and only picked up what jumped into my eyes 



Streetdragon said:


> a damaged chip. Can you provide some screens wich chip is the problem?


This one:








It is a Texas Instruments CD4052BPW (TSSOP-16 package).



war4peace said:


> BTW... do you still make the GIGANT?


Yes.



sakete said:


> Is there a dual-top for the Aquacomputer D5 pumps?


No.



Asunder said:


> If I want to connect 3 fans through a controller to the aquastream ultimate do I use the BUS port? Does this make it control the fan RPM independently by water temp reading?


Each aquastream has only a single fan port which means all fans that you connect there run with the same speed. The RPM of only one fan can be monitored. Make sure that the y-cable or splitter that you use only forwards one RPM signal. If it mixes the RPM of all channels you will only get a messed up value.



Tellik said:


> I've even attempted emailing support to get some answers


Maybe you already got an answer, otherwise you will still get an answer. All e-mails older than April 2nd, 18:30 (UTC+2) were answered. If yours was older, than we did not receive it. 



Tellik said:


> When I contacted Aquatuning support, I basically just got some random customer support person.


Make sure to contact the correct company: we are Aqua Computer and not Aquatuning.



ManniX-ITA said:


> I guess they are mostly working from home like anyone else and trying to mitigate the issues...


We are operating normally. Current status can be found here: https://aquacomputer.de/newsreader/items/covid-19-situation.html



Asunder said:


> The pump is the Aquastream Ultimate that Bartdude also mentioned (I found them pretty confusing too, but this is apparently a newer version from the ultra). Sorry that was a stupid mistake on my side, I meant to say the pump supports up to 3 fans according to the specs, it does NOT have 3 fan ports. I totally phrased that wrong. Someone here told me it would exceed the power rating for 3 fans so I will use another power source anyway.


The aquastream ULTIMATE uses a completely different controller board and the fan port is much more powerful. While the aquastream XT series has a classic analog voltage controller that can provide up to 5W of power, the aquastream ULTIMATE can be switched between PWM and voltage control. The voltage controller is also a switching regulator and can provide up to 12W of power. That will easily serve more than three fans as long as we do not talk about some power hungry ones.



RoivonPC said:


> Here's the hubs, single PWM into 4 PWM. All the fans are identical. I watched a build by Singularity Computers using these hubs (it's where I got the idea to use them) and his Aquasuite fan report was jumping up and down as well.


Classic problem with many fan splitters. They mix the RPM signal of all connected fans which will mess up the RPM value of course. Intelligent splitters like our Splitty9 only forward the signal of one fan.


----------



## tistou77

tistou77 said:


> Thanks so much for your reply and the details :thumb:
> 
> 2) If I remember correctly, there are 4 x 4pin and 2 x 4pin (PWM)
> So I can use these 6 "outputs" in 3pin and use the voltage control ?
> 
> 3) I do not wish to use the software and if I understood correctly, everything can be adjusted from the Aquaero 6 screen
> 
> I have one last question, is it possible to turn off the screen but without turning off the Aquaero ?
> 
> Thanks


Hello

I would like confirmations
Can we use 6 x 4pin to connect fans?

I saw someone connect the fans to the 4 x 4pin
But there is nothing to connect 2 others....

And how can you only have information on the speed of the fans?
And to be able to regulate the speed via the RPM (like a classic fan controller)?

On fan1 for example, this indicates 2000rpm, while the fan only rotates at 1200rpm maximum
There, if the person lowers the RPM, the fans always turn at the same speed

Thanks


----------



## skupples

tistou77 said:


> Hello
> 
> I would like confirmations
> Can we use 6 x 4pin to connect fans?
> 
> I saw someone connect the fans to the 4 x 4pin
> But there is nothing to connect 2 others....
> 
> And how can you only have information on the speed of the fans?
> And to be able to regulate the speed via the RPM (like a classic fan controller)?
> 
> On fan1 for example, this indicates 2000rpm, while the fan only rotates at 1200rpm maximum
> There, if the person lowers the RPM, the fans always turn at the same speed
> 
> Thanks


Shog - "Classic problem with many fan splitters. They mix the RPM signal of all connected fans which will mess up the RPM value of course. Intelligent splitters like our Splitty9 only forward the signal of one fan."

Splitty does it with a chip and proper tracing i'd assume. otherwise, you have to rig.


----------



## ManniX-ITA

tistou77 said:


> Hello
> 
> I would like confirmations
> Can we use 6 x 4pin to connect fans?
> 
> I saw someone connect the fans to the 4 x 4pin
> But there is nothing to connect 2 others....
> 
> And how can you only have information on the speed of the fans?
> And to be able to regulate the speed via the RPM (like a classic fan controller)?
> 
> On fan1 for example, this indicates 2000rpm, while the fan only rotates at 1200rpm maximum
> There, if the person lowers the RPM, the fans always turn at the same speed
> 
> Thanks


You can use a splitter to connect more fans to a single port.
Like the Splitty4 as suggested.

Guess if you want reliable control and proper speed reported all the fans must be same model.
Probably works fine as well for push/pull fans which does have minimal rpm differences usually.

If you really want to connect and control 6 discrete fans, you need to connect a Quadro:

https://shop.aquacomputer.de/product_info.php?products_id=3773

Then you'll have 4 additional ports for a total of 8.

I didn't get the question about the fan1 example at 2000rpm, sorry...


----------



## tistou77

I wanted to take the Aquaero because I was told it was good to use 6 outputs for the fans

I use a Y adaptater and only 1 cable have a file for the RPM signal (and no problem with other fan controlers)

Thanks


----------



## ManniX-ITA

tistou77 said:


> I wanted to take the Aquaero because I was told it was good to use 6 outputs for the fans
> 
> I use a Y adaptater and only 1 cable have a file for the RPM signal (and no problem with other fan controlers)
> 
> Thanks


Then maybe it was a misunderstanding 

The aquaero itself has only 4 outputs.
Depending on the fans power consumption you can connect multiple fans in parallel on each output.
If you check a few posts earlier I think there was someone having 19 fans on a single channel.
The limit is 2.5A, 30W at 12V per channel.


----------



## skupples

or all the fans known to man, & just feed external power 

I think excessive zoning is silly. You need two channels per loop. 1 channel for fans, 1 channel for pumps.  or the ever elusive splitty.


----------



## tistou77

The person has updated the firmware and it seems to be good, the problem may have come from there (fan at 2000)

Ok for the 4 Outputs, I asked the question for 6, and I was not told that it was 4 maximum
I have 2 Mora with 9 fans on each, which I connected to 2 outputs, I can put the 18 fans together (same fans)

I also have a led strip with a 3 pin connector, possible to connect it to the Aquaero (just need 12v) ?

And the RPM output? Can't I connect fans to it?

Thanks for your helps


----------



## skupples

RPM header is not for fans. 

you're overthinking it. You can probably run all 18 fans from one header. If not, then all you do is get a powered hub.


----------



## tistou77

Ok thanks

I had the 18 fans on the same Output (30W) with a Lamptron fan controller (at the beginning), then I separated them (6 outputs on the Lamptron)


----------



## skupples

you mathed it out to 30W right? 

I'd test it to see if it works. If not, then yes I suppose you'll have to split the load until you're able to get proper hubs.(unless your fans came with MOLEX daisychains, but that would be an obscene amount of wire)


----------



## ManniX-ITA

tistou77 said:


> The person has updated the firmware and it seems to be good, the problem may have come from there (fan at 2000)
> 
> Ok for the 4 Outputs, I asked the question for 6, and I was not told that it was 4 maximum
> I have 2 Mora with 9 fans on each, which I connected to 2 outputs, I can put the 18 fans together (same fans)
> 
> I also have a led strip with a 3 pin connector, possible to connect it to the Aquaero (just need 12v) ?
> 
> And the RPM output? Can't I connect fans to it?
> 
> Thanks for your helps


If you don't need 3 other outputs for other case fans, maybe it's better to split the fans by 9 for each channel.
I'd also check the max amperage for this fan you have.
All 18 of them on one channel means they should not draw more than 0.13 amp each at full speed.

The RPM output cannot be used to drive fans, it's to report an RPM value back to the mainboard.

You can use the two PWM outputs to drive generic LED strips if it's just enough to provide 12V:

_4.4. Connector “PWM 1/2” 
Pulse width modulated 12 V outputs, maximum current load 1 A, carrier frequency 15 kHz. 
*Suitable for example for 12 V LEDs, not compatible with PWM fans or pumps.* 

Pin assignment: 
Pin 1: VCC 
Pin 2: GND 

Compatible products: 
*● Plug for PWM connector, 2 contacts (53036)*
_

But you'll need to order the connector and make yourself an adapter from 3 pins to 2 pins.


----------



## Shawnb99

tistou77 said:


> Ok thanks
> 
> I had the 18 fans on the same Output (30W) with a Lamptron fan controller (at the beginning), then I separated them (6 outputs on the Lamptron)


Depends on the fan and how much start up power they need. I have 16 Noctua's on one channel with no issues, this is also on a Quadro witch can handle less power then the AQ. 
With my Vadar fans I can't run more then 6 without triggering the over volt protections.


----------



## tistou77

skupples said:


> you mathed it out to 30W right?
> 
> I'd test it to see if it works. If not, then yes I suppose you'll have to split the load until you're able to get proper hubs.(unless your fans came with MOLEX daisychains, but that would be an obscene amount of wire)


No, the Lamptron has 30W per channel 
The 18 fans (Noctua A12X25) must be around 11, 12W at 12V (0.6W per fan)


----------



## Shawnb99

tistou77 said:


> No, the Lamptron has 30W per channel
> The 18 fans (Noctua A12X25) must be around 11, 12W at 12V (0.6W per fan)


You'll be fine with the Noctua's. As I said I'm running 16 of them as we speak off a Quadro that handles less voltage then the AQ does. \



Damn this latest update. Have to update the firmware of each Quadro again. So glad my settings stayed. Just lost all the names of my channels


----------



## tistou77

Ok, thanks so much for your helps
I would put the 18 fans together

For the led strip (3pin connector as for a fan), I could plug it into the Aquaero or not at all (just need 12v / GND)


----------



## Barefooter

Shawnb99 said:


> Depends on the fan and how much start up power they need. I have 16 Noctua's on one channel with no issues, this is also on a Quadro witch can handle less power then the AQ.
> With my Vadar fans I can't run more then 6 without triggering the over volt protections.





tistou77 said:


> No, the Lamptron has 30W per channel
> The 18 fans (Noctua A12X25) must be around 11, 12W at 12V (0.6W per fan)


 @Shawnb99 is correct about the start up power. It takes more power to "start" most fans than to "run" the fans. Below in the picture you can see I'm testing EK Vardar 140mm PWM fans which I believe are rated at less than 1 watt. It will start and run six of these fans no problem, but if you add one more fan it trips the over current protection and that channel gets shut down immediately.

Since I wanted to run eight of these fans on three of my channels, I used Splitty9s and ran power and ground directly from the power supply to the Splitty9s, and then ran the RPM and PWM wires to the Aquaero :thumb:



As a side note from a few pages back when people were posting their "Uptime Totals" my secondary rig has 1,710 days Uptime!

.


----------



## ManniX-ITA

tistou77 said:


> No, the Lamptron has 30W per channel
> The 18 fans (Noctua A12X25) must be around 11, 12W at 12V (0.6W per fan)


Forgot you said already the model.

Always check the specification from the manufacturer by yourself:

https://noctua.at/en/nf-a12x25-pwm/specification

They are 0.14 A with max power consumption 1.68 W each.
With 18 of them on one channel you are really close to the maximum output for a single channel: 30.24 W.

I'd split them onto 2 channels.
It may work but it'd be unpleasant if they all switch down at the same time cause of channel overheating...


----------



## Shawnb99

ManniX-ITA said:


> Forgot you said already the model.
> 
> Always check the specification from the manufacturer by yourself:
> 
> https://noctua.at/en/nf-a12x25-pwm/specification
> 
> They are 0.14 A with max power consumption 1.68 W each.
> With 18 of them on one channel you are really close to the maximum output for a single channel: 30.24 W.
> 
> I'd split them onto 2 channels.
> It may work but it'd be unpleasant if they all switch down at the same time cause of channel overheating...


When I push my 16 to max the power consumption hits 30 for a sec then levels out at around 22.5. I'd also suggest splitting them into 2 channels, I'll likely be doing the same with mine.


----------



## tistou77

ManniX-ITA said:


> Forgot you said already the model.
> 
> Always check the specification from the manufacturer by yourself:
> 
> https://noctua.at/en/nf-a12x25-pwm/specification
> 
> They are 0.14 A with max power consumption 1.68 W each.
> With 18 of them on one channel you are really close to the maximum output for a single channel: 30.24 W.
> 
> I'd split them onto 2 channels.
> It may work but it'd be unpleasant if they all switch down at the same time cause of channel overheating...


Forgot to say it was ULN version, so it's 0.6W and 0.05A
So it's good, the 18 on the same channel


----------



## ManniX-ITA

tistou77 said:


> Forgot to say it was ULN version, so it's 0.6W and 0.05A
> So it's good, the 18 on the same channel


Then indeed you are fine all in one 
Now I feel ashamed I only tops 3 per channel!


----------



## tistou77

ManniX-ITA said:


> Then indeed you are fine all in one
> Now I feel ashamed I only tops 3 per channel!


:thumb:

I saw that in Information Page, we can choose the "screen" that appears on the screen of the Aquaero (when we are not using it)
I saw the screeshot, a "Page while idle" option and a "Page during stanby" option

How to choose the "screen" ?

Thanks


----------



## skupples

info pages screen on aquaero tab.


----------



## tistou77

Thanks, and with the software ?


----------



## skupples

in aquasuite >>> aquaero tab >>> information pages tab >>> built in display configuration stuff.


----------



## tistou77

Yes, but it's a bit "factory" in the settings and we don't see how to apply the screen chooses

With "Page while idle" and a "Page during stanby" option, do you have to put the "chooses" screens here?
What a difference between the 2 options, we see no change

Thanks


----------



## skupples

ohh. um...

pretty suure standby is when the PC is off. Idle is system on... can't restart at the moment to confirm 100%.


----------



## tistou77

Ok thanks so much


----------



## Barefooter

tistou77 said:


> Yes, but it's a bit "factory" in the settings and we don't see how to apply the screen chooses
> 
> With "Page while idle" and a "Page during stanby" option, do you have to put the "chooses" screens here?
> What a difference between the 2 options, we see no change
> 
> Thanks


Looking at the Information Pages tab the _"Available Screens"_ are in the left column, there's a drop down menu there to choose different types of screens.

Then you just drag the ones you want to display to the right column of _"Displayed Screens"_. Then the Aquasuite will rotate through those screens you have chosen. If you want one screen to stay displayed put a check mark in the "Permanent" box that I highlighted with a red box for you in the picture.

This is how I have mine set up to display my "Custom Logo" all the time, but I can still push the up or down buttons on the front of the Aquaero to rotate through the other screens I have chosen.

You can also set up a different level of brightness for when the computer is on or turned off.

You might want to take a look at the Guide I made, where I covered how to do all of this. There's a link below in my signature.


----------



## tistou77

Barefooter said:


> Looking at the Information Pages tab the _"Available Screens"_ are in the left column, there's a drop down menu there to choose different types of screens.
> 
> Then you just drag the ones you want to display to the right column of _"Displayed Screens"_. Then the Aquasuite will rotate through those screens you have chosen. If you want one screen to stay displayed put a check mark in the "Permanent" box that I highlighted with a red box for you in the picture.
> 
> This is how I have mine set up to display my "Custom Logo" all the time, but I can still push the up or down buttons on the front of the Aquaero to rotate through the other screens I have chosen.
> 
> You can also set up a different level of brightness for when the computer is on or turned off.
> 
> You might want to take a look at the Guide I made, where I covered how to do all of this. There's a link below in my signature.


Thanks so much for the explanation :thumb:


----------



## tistou77

In the fan options, what is the difference between the "power controlled" and "speed controlled" option ?
We thought it was voltage (power) and RPM (speed) but we don't see a difference

Thanks


----------



## ManniX-ITA

tistou77 said:


> In the fan options, what is the difference between the "power controlled" and "speed controlled" option ?
> We thought it was voltage (power) and RPM (speed) but we don't see a difference
> 
> Thanks


_In “power controlled” mode, an output value from a controller will be linearly converted to the range between minimum and maximum power of the fan output and the corresponding voltage will be set. 
In “speed controlled” mode, an output value from a controller will be linearly converted to the range between configured minimum and maximum speed of the fan output. The aquaero will adjust the output power (voltage) autonomously within the configured range of minimum and maximum power to maintain this fan speed._

In layman terms with power mode you'll set the power voltage and then you'll have to check what is the resulting speed reported via RPM signal.
In speed mode you'll set the desired speed and the controller will modulate for you the correct voltage to obtain it.


----------



## tistou77

ManniX-ITA said:


> _In “power controlled” mode, an output value from a controller will be linearly converted to the range between minimum and maximum power of the fan output and the corresponding voltage will be set.
> In “speed controlled” mode, an output value from a controller will be linearly converted to the range between configured minimum and maximum speed of the fan output. The aquaero will adjust the output power (voltage) autonomously within the configured range of minimum and maximum power to maintain this fan speed._
> 
> In layman terms with power mode you'll set the power voltage and then you'll have to check what is the resulting speed reported via RPM signal.
> In speed mode you'll set the desired speed and the controller will modulate for you the correct voltage to obtain it.


Thank you very much for the explanation
Since it "sets" these fans by RPM, the best is the "Speed Controlled" option

Can't wait to get mine, to test it all 
We have almost the same RIG


----------



## ManniX-ITA

tistou77 said:


> Thank you very much for the explanation
> Since it "sets" these fans by RPM, the best is the "Speed Controlled" option
> 
> Can't wait to get mine, to test it all
> We have almost the same RIG


Yep, I can say it's awesome 

I recommend to download and read the manual beforehand:

https://aquacomputer.de/handbuecher...loads/manuals/aquaero_5_aquaero_6_english.pdf

It's hard reading it blindly but it's good to be prepared.
You'll avoid big surprises; it's sad to find out you missed a small bit when you just want to connect and mount everything as quickly as possible!


----------



## GTXJackBauer

For many questions, don't forget to check out this amazing guide!


----------



## ManniX-ITA

GTXJackBauer said:


> For many questions, don't forget to check out this amazing guide!


Indeed, I'm still halfway and found out a lot of useful stuff!

Many thanks to @Barefooter


----------



## TWiST2k

This Aquaero SPLITTY9 Noctua PWM issue is such a let down from Noctua. I have been buying their fans for over 10 years and do not understand why they would have made this funky change to the design. I have 13 NF-A14 fans in my most recent build on an Aquaero 6 XT and they were not cheap. Ugh.


----------



## Shawnb99

TWiST2k said:


> This Aquaero SPLITTY9 Noctua PWM issue is such a let down from Noctua. I have been buying their fans for over 10 years and do not understand why they would have made this funky change to the design. I have 13 NF-A14 fans in my most recent build on an Aquaero 6 XT and they were not cheap. Ugh.



Can you explain more what the actual issue is?

All I know is what I experienced. Connect one fan and PWM control works, connect more then one and I can’t control anything.
Only was with the industrial fans


----------



## Shoggy

tistou77 said:


> Ok, thanks so much for your helps
> I would put the 18 fans together
> 
> For the led strip (3pin connector as for a fan), I could plug it into the Aquaero or not at all (just need 12v / GND)


If you have a free fan output, then you could connect it there. Usually a single colored 12V LED strip would be connected to the 2-pin PWM output. You need this plug if you want to connect there and you have to check for the correct polarity.



ManniX-ITA said:


> Always check the specification from the manufacturer by yourself:
> 
> https://noctua.at/en/nf-a12x25-pwm/specification
> 
> They are 0.14 A with max power consumption 1.68 W each.


Hopefully these numbers are a bit more reliable than those for their NF-A20 PWM. That fan is rated with 0.08A (0.96W) and we measured a startup peak current of *8.1A* :kookoo: - and no, this is not a typo.










And then customers wonder why these fans trip the overcurrent protection.

One more reason why we _love _this company so much...


----------



## jura11

I experienced same startup issues with few fans like EK Vardar F3 1850RPM, Noiseblocker which would trip overcurrent protection almost every time when you restart or start PC

Other fans with which I experienced same are Phanteks PH-F120MP but only when I run more than 9 fans per header on Aquaero, Corsair ML120 as well this exhibit and few others as well, I would say depending on fan and how many fans per header I'm running 

Hope this helps 

Thanks, Jura


----------



## TWiST2k

Shawnb99 said:


> Can you explain more what the actual issue is?
> 
> All I know is what I experienced. Connect one fan and PWM control works, connect more then one and I can’t control anything.
> Only was with the industrial fans


Here is the thread about it on Aqua;

https://forum.aquacomputer.de/weite...9824-splitty-9-active-pwm-problem/index3.html

I submitted a ticket to Noctua about it as well. Basically Noctua did some custom circuit for the PWM and it is what is causing this. I am also using the NF-A14 x 13 fans and it is not working correctly. It is fans off or 100% with the SPLITTY 9. UGH.


----------



## Barefooter

GTXJackBauer said:


> For many questions, don't forget to check out this amazing guide!


 Thank you sir!



ManniX-ITA said:


> Indeed, I'm still halfway and found out a lot of useful stuff!
> 
> Many thanks to @*Barefooter*


Yeah so I had this great idea to make a guide about the Aquaero and Aquasuite, and it ended up being way more work than I first anticipated!

Glad you are finding it useful and thanks for the REP :thumb:


----------



## tistou77

@Shoggy Thanks
I will connect the 18 fans on the same "channel", it was like that for 1 year on the Lamptron (30W per channel) without problem (but it was Gentle Typhoon)

Otherwise, when the PC starts, the fans connected to the Aquaero starts after about 10 seconds
Possible that it starts at the same time as the PC ?


----------



## Shoggy

This is too hilarious and I just have to share it:

igor'sLAB: Barrowch FBFT03 vs. Thermaltake Pacific TF1 and Aqua Computer High Flow Review – Flow Sensors for Custom-Loop Water Cooling with Two Total Failures

TL;DR: our high flow sensor was pretty close to a $700 professional flow sensor while the other two sensors provided horrible wrong values.


----------



## GTXJackBauer

Shoggy said:


> This is too hilarious and I just have to share it:
> 
> igor'sLAB: Barrowch FBFT03 vs. Thermaltake Pacific TF1 and Aqua Computer High Flow Review – Flow Sensors for Custom-Loop Water Cooling with Two Total Failures
> 
> TL;DR: our high flow sensor was pretty close to a $700 professional flow sensor while the other two sensors provided horrible wrong values.


That's awesome Shoggy. :thumb:

Question, isntead of having the High Flow horizontal with it's back on the ground but have it standing off it's bottom side, will that affect it's accuracy?


----------



## broodro0ster

Shoggy said:


> This is too hilarious and I just have to share it:
> 
> igor'sLAB: Barrowch FBFT03 vs. Thermaltake Pacific TF1 and Aqua Computer High Flow Review – Flow Sensors for Custom-Loop Water Cooling with Two Total Failures
> 
> TL;DR: our high flow sensor was pretty close to a $700 professional flow sensor while the other two sensors provided horrible wrong values.


The Aqua-Computer sensor is just awesome. I want to get it for my loop, but I'm running Mayhems Pastel fluids. Do you think it will cause problems if I run it in my loop?
I will get it anyways, but I won't mount in in my loop if it can cause problems with the pastel fluid. Then I'll just drain my pastel and use some distilled water for testing to know my flowrates at different pump speeds.


----------



## war4peace

broodro0ster said:


> The Aqua-Computer sensor is just awesome. I want to get it for my loop, but I'm running Mayhems Pastel fluids. Do you think it will cause problems if I run it in my loop?
> I will get it anyways, but I won't mount in in my loop if it can cause problems with the pastel fluid. Then I'll just drain my pastel and use some distilled water for testing to know my flowrates at different pump speeds.


It works perfectly. I have the High Flow sensor in my loop, have been using it with Mayhems Pastel White for two years, zero issues. I have another system with the High Flow Sensor and Pastel Red and a friend of mine has yet another High Flow with Pastel White as well.

All machines work perfectly.


----------



## sultanofswing

Shoggy said:


> This is too hilarious and I just have to share it:
> 
> igor'sLAB: Barrowch FBFT03 vs. Thermaltake Pacific TF1 and Aqua Computer High Flow Review – Flow Sensors for Custom-Loop Water Cooling with Two Total Failures
> 
> TL;DR: our high flow sensor was pretty close to a $700 professional flow sensor while the other two sensors provided horrible wrong values.


That is why it's the only sensor I trust, and I recommend to anyone. The big issue is most users just go for looks, not realizing that the flow sensor they are using is way off and potentially limiting the cooling capability of their system.


----------



## Leonko

lol that conclusion got me : Take the 50 Euros (or whatever you just wanted to throw out the window) and buy the children a fat pot of ice cream
 

I would like to see Bitspower results rather then copycats as TT and Barrow (which is obvious for everyone how they perform)


----------



## Shoggy

tistou77 said:


> @Shoggy I will connect the 18 fans on the same "channel", it was like that for 1 year on the Lamptron (30W per channel) without problem (but it was Gentle Typhoon)
> 
> Otherwise, when the PC starts, the fans connected to the Aquaero starts after about 10 seconds
> Possible that it starts at the same time as the PC ?


To my knowledge the Lamptron controller has no overload protection so I assume it will just deliver power until it starts to burn 

The 10 seconds delay is normal if the aquaero was completely turned off. It takes a while to initialize everything. If the standby power from USB is present, the fans will start immediately with the PC because in this case the aquaero was already in standby.



GTXJackBauer said:


> Question, isntead of having the High Flow horizontal with it's back on the ground but have it standing off it's bottom side, will that affect it's accuracy?


We never tested this but I assume it has no or only a minor effect.



Leonko said:


> lol that conclusion got me : Take the 50 Euros (or whatever you just wanted to throw out the window) and buy the children *a fat pot of ice cream*


:drool:


----------



## skupples

i've mounted my high flow all sorts of ways, never noticed a difference in functionality.

only caveat is they're quite drip sensitive due to the giant 3 prong. hot glue ftw.


----------



## Leonko

Shoggy said:


> :drool:


I would still buy AQ flow sensor instead 

Ok, so lets talk about RGB for a minute ...

I would like to add 2x RGB strips to my rig and still figurig whats best for me.

1. Should a just buy farbwerk USB + Connector for IP65 RGB LED strips + Aqua Computer RGB LED strip, IP65
... and im good?

2. And if I would like to make custom lenght cable (something like MDPCX custom cables) which would connect farbwerk USB and Aqua Computer RGB LED strip, IP65
... so if i ditch Connector for IP65 RGB LED strips, with little bit of soldering, is it just 4 cables conecting one end to another, like custom PWM fans ? I assume so because RGBpx cable is the same way.

3. Any reason farbwerk for RGBpx would be better in anything ?
... i need 50cm RGB strip in lenght, and AQ only has 32cm RGBpx max?

thanks for asnwer.


----------



## skupples

I've always wanted to use a farbwerk to light up my entire rig, desk, biaslight. specially now that it seems dynamic bias lighting (that doesn't hurt your head) takes quite a bit of effort. (you'd need a constant base light on top of the shifting/reaction lighting, or headaches ensue)


----------



## war4peace

Leonko said:


> I would still buy AQ flow sensor instead
> 
> Ok, so lets talk about RGB for a minute ...
> 
> I would like to add 2x RGB strips to my rig and still figurig whats best for me.
> 
> 1. Should a just buy farbwerk USB + Connector for IP65 RGB LED strips + Aqua Computer RGB LED strip, IP65
> ... and im good?
> 
> 2. And if I would like to make custom lenght cable (something like MDPCX custom cables) which would connect farbwerk USB and Aqua Computer RGB LED strip, IP65
> ... so if i ditch Connector for IP65 RGB LED strips, with little bit of soldering, is it just 4 cables conecting one end to another, like custom PWM fans ? I assume so because RGBpx cable is the same way.
> 
> 3. Any reason farbwerk for RGBpx would be better in anything ?
> ... i need 50cm RGB strip in lenght, and AQ only has 32cm RGBpx max?
> 
> thanks for asnwer.


Having used both (Farbwerk and Farbwerk 360), the RGB one is great as a controller but the LED strips which I got (from Aquacomputer) were subpar. I got the 1m strips and cut them to size, was never able to make the strip clamps work properly, I had to solder everything. There was always some broken connection to this color or that color.
Farbwerk 360 is great, had almost no issues with it, except some firmware bugs for some lighting effects, I reported them to Aquacomputer with thorough testing and they got fixed. However, the 30-LED strips (27.5 cm ones) started exhibiting the same broken connection issue I mentioned earlier, this time the three strips connected to my monitor top, which I was using for ambient lighting. LED #1 randomly starts blinking green very rapidly, and then I have to fiddle the wire it's connected to, then the issue goes away, and reappears randomly (after minutes, tens of minutes or even a couple hours). I have also experienced flickering for some specific colors, issue is reproducible, and fiddling with the cable makes it go away, and it reappears by itself.
With that being said, the LED strips I have inside my PCs work perfectly, I have 6 strips of 15 LEDs each connected into a loooong strip which wraps around my case on the inside and two LED rings for 60mm reservoirs, mounted at the top and bottom of my reservoir. They look great, and work perfectly.

If you need exactly 50cm of LED strips, you could buy a couple 27.5 cm LED strips and trim one of them. You would end up with a strip containing 55 LEDs, really strong ones ant they give off great lighting. Just be mindful of those connectors, they can be a bit painful to handle.


----------



## tistou77

Shoggy said:


> To my knowledge the Lamptron controller has no overload protection so I assume it will just deliver power until it starts to burn
> 
> The 10 seconds delay is normal if the aquaero was completely turned off. It takes a while to initialize everything. If the standby power from USB is present, the fans will start immediately with the PC because in this case the aquaero was already in standby.
> 
> We never tested this but I assume it has no or only a minor effect.
> 
> :drool:


Ok thanks 

This product can remplace the USB and fan start immediately ?


----------



## Shoggy

tistou77 said:


> Ok thanks
> 
> This  can remplace the USB and fan start immediately ?




No, you need a 5V power supply for standby which is normally the USB connection when you use the aquaero with a PC. If you turn off the power source completely (e.g. multiple socket outlet) it will not work.


----------



## tistou77

Shoggy said:


> No, you need a 5V power supply for standby which is normally the USB connection when you use the aquaero with a PC. If you turn off the power source completely (e.g. multiple socket outlet) it will not work.


Ah okay, I thought it was a kind of external power supply (from the description)

If I use USB, when the PC is off (PSU off), when the PC starts, will it be the same, then

Thanks


----------



## ManniX-ITA

tistou77 said:


> Ah okay, I thought it was a kind of external power supply (from the description)
> 
> If I use USB, when the PC is off (PSU off), when the PC starts, will it be the same, then
> 
> Thanks


That's an RTC source, Real Time Clock, keeps the time without the USB host 

If you are using the mainboard in your signature you can try the following.

Go to Advanced\Onboard Devices Configuration menu and enable:

Asmedia USB 3.0 Battery Charging Support

Go to Advanced\APM and disable:

ErP Ready

Now shutdown your PC and check with your mobile phone which port is charging it from the back I/O plate.
You have 4 USB 3.0 ports from the ASMedia controller, the blue ones; one of them should be now delivering power also when the PC is off.

If you are successful you'll need a cable to connect the external port to the Aquaero, type A to internal, from the outside back to the inside.

Or a couple of cables like these:

Internal to type A: https://www.amazon.de/dp/B00DKWY0S8/

Type A to type A: https://www.amazon.de/dp/B01KRO8D20/

Not sure how you can configure the Aquaero to stop running fans & whatever is connected if the PC is off.
But I'm sure there's a way to do it 

Good luck!


----------



## Shoggy

ManniX-ITA said:


> Not sure how you can configure the Aquaero to stop running fans & whatever is connected if the PC is off.
> But I'm sure there's a way to do it


When the PC is turned off, there is no 12V anymore, so the outputs of the aquaero are off too.


----------



## tistou77

Shoggy said:


> When the PC is turned off, there is no 12V anymore, so the outputs of the aquaero are off too.


Ok thanks for your help to you 2
I will leave like this

I think I will order the Aquaero from your shop, I don't know what UPS has done with my package and Aquatuning no longer responds to me


----------



## Shawnb99

tistou77 said:


> Ok thanks for your help to you 2
> I will leave like this
> 
> I think I will order the Aquaero from your shop, I don't know what UPS has done with my package and Aquatuning no longer responds to me



Aquatuning is really hit or miss when ordering from them. Sometimes you’ll have great service and your product right other times you’re lucky to get a response at all


----------



## tistou77

Shawnb99 said:


> Aquatuning is really hit or miss when ordering from them. Sometimes you’ll have great service and your product right other times you’re lucky to get a response at all


Thanks, it does not reassure me


----------



## ManniX-ITA

Shoggy said:


> When the PC is turned off, there is no 12V anymore, so the outputs of the aquaero are off too.


LoL, right :rolleyess


----------



## Leonko

war4peace said:


> If you need exactly 50cm of LED strips, you could buy a couple 27.5 cm LED strips and trim one of them. You would end up with a strip containing 55 LEDs, really strong ones ant they give off great lighting. Just be mindful of those connectors, they can be a bit painful to handle.


thanks for an aswer 

Is this the the cable to connect them together, right? RGBpx cable

One end cant not be seen but i hope they are same as on this picture










and one more question since you "played"´with farbwerk and farnwerk360. Can i adjust the intensity level of light in aquasuite? i dont want to have full brightness in my case


----------



## Shoggy

The cable is the correct one to connect a RGBpx LED strip to farbwerk 360 or to connect two RGBpx LED strips to each other.

Of course you can adjust the brightness. If this is your only "fear", then hopefully you will not black out when you see all the other possibilities


----------



## tistou77

I can take this led strip with this cable 
And connect to the Aquaero (in replacement of my current led strip) and only set in blue color from the Aquaero ?

Or do I need another cable to connect to the Aquaero ?


----------



## Shoggy

No, aquaero has no port for any kind of RGB LED strip.


----------



## tistou77

Shoggy said:


> No, aquaero has no port for any kind of RGB LED strip.


Ok thanks
And the 4pin RGB is for what ?

EDIT : ok, it's only for this product


----------



## Leonko

Shoggy said:


> Of course you can adjust the brightness. If this is your only "fear", then hopefully you will not black out when you see all the other possibilities


Its not my fear, its just only thing what i really need.  Maybe some color adjustment based on CPU/GPU temp. I could just buy some basic LED strip and work is done. But i have my whole system controlled with AQ products (Aquaero, OCTO, + 2x quadro, hubby and some splitty4s), so when it comes to what farbwerk can do, i really can imagine 
(i know i could just connect RGBpx to any other mentioned controllers above, but i want everything to have its place in every device designed for it )

@Shoggy : any chance to buy separate RGBpx cable connectors ? I dont want whole cable, cause i want to make custom lenght cables by myself.


----------



## Shoggy

We do not sell these connectors separately. They are from the Molex PicoBlade series. Every larger shop for electronic components have them. I also saw them on eBay.


----------



## war4peace

Leonko said:


> and one more question since you "played"´with farbwerk and farnwerk360. Can i adjust the intensity level of light in aquasuite? i dont want to have full brightness in my case


Yes, you can. From zero to maximum, for each output separately. White is very white and very bright, the other colors are pretty bright too, and I truly recommend the LED rings for reservoirs, they are absolutely awesome.
You need a Farbwerk360, it's an excellent product, and it works separately from the Aquaero, just plug it into an internal USB port.
If you run out of internal USB ports, get a Hubby7. I have one and it works flawlessly.


----------



## InfoSeeker

Leonko said:


> Spoiler
> 
> 
> 
> thanks for an aswer
> 
> Is this the the cable to connect them together, right? RGBpx cable
> 
> 
> One end cant not be seen but i hope they are same as on this picture
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and one more question since you "played"´with farbwerk and farnwerk360. Can i adjust the intensity level of light in aquasuite? i dont want to have full brightness in my case



There is a polarity to the strips, so be sure to go from the farbwerk 360 to the IN port on the 1st strip, and from the OUT of the first strip to the IN of the second strip. If memory serves the IN & OUT markings may be on the back hidden by the paper cover over the adhesive.

I attach a couple screen shots so you can see what control you will have.
The first one is just a single color and at the bottom is where you would adjust the intensity.
The second is how I control the lighting on my analog flow meter, white above 1.5 l/m & violet below.
The last one shows most of the effects available.


----------



## Shoggy

That provides a good overview:






Most effects offer tons of additional adjustments for individual customization. I can also already let you guys know that the next aquasuite update will have some new effects and options


----------



## Leonko

InfoSeeker said:


> There is a polarity to the strips, so be sure to go from the farbwerk 360 to the IN port on the 1st strip, and from the OUT of the first strip to the IN of the second strip. If memory serves the IN & OUT markings may be on the back hidden by the paper cover over the adhesive.


yeah, thats kinda logical, atleast for me 

anyway thank you for your help @Shoggy, @InfoSeeker and @war4peace :thumb:


----------



## skupples

Shoggy said:


> That provides a good overview:
> 
> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XNnAkMD9L1I
> 
> Most effects offer tons of additional adjustments for individual customization. I can also already let you guys know that the next aquasuite update will have some new effects and options


wait, y'all do dynamic bias lighting now? Can you please define how your "Ambient px" setting works? What its doing?

I picked up this atrocious LS100 LED strip kit from Corsair. All it does is make me wish I could deploy a similar solution via Aquasuite. The only thing this CORSAIR kit has going for it are the LEDs. The software is bunk, & the mounting mechanism is bunk.


----------



## Shoggy

AMBIENTpx was available right from the start when we introduced our RGBpx lighting system. You can assign all four edges of the monitor to a specific range of your LED strips. It also has an automatic letterbox detection so you do not have to adjust the settings again if you watch a move with a very wide aspect ratio. It also works in multi monitor setups.

All devices with a RGBpx port have this feature.

You can see the whole setup process here:


----------



## sultanofswing

Anyone know where to get extensions for the 2 pin temp sensors or do I just need to cut them and extend them? Where my Aquaero is mounted in my Enthoo Elite they will not reach where I need them too.


----------



## mgoldb2

sultanofswing said:


> Anyone know where to get extensions for the 2 pin temp sensors or do I just need to cut them and extend them? Where my Aquaero is mounted in my Enthoo Elite they will not reach where I need them too.


I am using https://www.amazon.com/Phobya-Extension-Cable-2-Pin-4-Pack/dp/B010KO9JI4 which probably way over priced for what they are but I was lazy and in a rush at the time. I can say they working with out issue for me.


----------



## war4peace

skupples said:


> wait, y'all do dynamic bias lighting now? Can you please define how your "Ambient px" setting works? What its doing?


I see Shoggy already responded, but if you'd also like to see a regular user's video, here's mine:













sultanofswing said:


> Anyone know where to get extensions for the 2 pin temp sensors or do I just need to cut them and extend them? Where my Aquaero is mounted in my Enthoo Elite they will not reach where I need them too.


You don't need specific extensions, I use PWM fan extensions which work just fine. You only need to use two of the four wires, and either cut the plug at the other end to eliminate the extra wires. I use this method for my G1/4 temperature sensors which are connected to my external radiator. It helped me better because I have two sensors, therefore four wires, so one PWM extension cable was great to carry signal for both sensors to the Aquaero.


----------



## skupples

woot 

idk how I missed that. I even have a gen 1 farbwerk.


----------



## Leonko

looks awesome.

@Shoggy any reason why there are only led strips with max 32cm in lenght ?


----------



## sultanofswing

mgoldb2 said:


> I am using https://www.amazon.com/Phobya-Extension-Cable-2-Pin-4-Pack/dp/B010KO9JI4 which probably way over priced for what they are but I was lazy and in a rush at the time. I can say they working with out issue for me.



Nice, I searched Amazon a few weeks ago but I assume I didn't use the right search criteria. Thanks!


----------



## sultanofswing

war4peace said:


> I see Shoggy already responded, but if you'd also like to see a regular user's video, here's mine:
> 
> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eEq_lCK2p8w
> 
> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Spci2BaI5o0
> 
> 
> 
> You don't need specific extensions, I use PWM fan extensions which work just fine. You only need to use two of the four wires, and either cut the plug at the other end to eliminate the extra wires. I use this method for my G1/4 temperature sensors which are connected to my external radiator. It helped me better because I have two sensors, therefore four wires, so one PWM extension cable was great to carry signal for both sensors to the Aquaero.


I will take a look into this thank you.


----------



## GTXJackBauer

mgoldb2 said:


> I am using https://www.amazon.com/Phobya-Extension-Cable-2-Pin-4-Pack/dp/B010KO9JI4 which probably way over priced for what they are but I was lazy and in a rush at the time. I can say they working with out issue for me.


+1

I use extensions as well in a Corsair 900D for those that are out of reach. Not the same cables but similar ones. There are many out there you could use and probably more affordable.


----------



## skupples

you wanna buy that kind of stuff from performancePCs(modmymods) & FCPU whenever possible.

next step beyond that is buying a spool of wire, & making full on custom runs for a few pennies.


----------



## mgoldb2

skupples said:


> you wanna buy that kind of stuff from performancePCs(modmymods) & FCPU whenever possible.
> 
> next step beyond that is buying a spool of wire, & making full on custom runs for a few pennies.


Money wise no doubt smartest route is get a spool of wire and make a custom runs or use another kind of cable that can be used as mention else ware in thread they used a 4 pin fan extension. 

but if you going to buy an already made male to female 2 pin extension the problem with places like performancePCs(modmymods) & FCPU is they great if you ordering it with other larger items which make the shipping reasonable but if all you buying is 4 cables then the shipping cost make it unreasonable.

For example 4 of the cables I bought from amazon sells at performancePCs for 15.45 which at first look is $2 cheaper then amazon until you find out they want another ~$15 for shipping while amazon charged me nothing for shipping.


----------



## jvillaveces

I just finished building my new PC. I put in a brand new Aquaero 6LT. I'm stuck trying to set things up in Aquasuite (version X-16) because the aquaero sensors tab doesn't show any of the temp sensors. Do I have a bad aquaero? A bad aquasuite install?


----------



## jvillaveces

While I'm at it, I have another problem with my installation: I put in a Farbwerk , but it doesn't show in Aquasuite. It's driving a couple of RGBpx strips, and they are working, but I have no control over them. The farbwerk is connected to USB. How can I get Aquasuite to recognize it?


----------



## sakete

jvillaveces said:


> I just finished building my new PC. I put in a brand new Aquaero 6LT. I'm stuck trying to set things up in Aquasuite (version X-16) because the aquaero sensors tab doesn't show any of the temp sensors. Do I have a bad aquaero? A bad aquasuite install?


Do you have any of the temperature sensor wires connected, and are they connected the right way?


----------



## jvillaveces

sakete said:


> Do you have any of the temperature sensor wires connected, and are they connected the right way?


I have an ambient sensor in port 1, and a loop sensor (aquacomputer) in port 2. However, AFAIK, aquasuite should show all 8 ports, even if nothing is connected to them. In my case they¡re simply notr there


----------



## skupples

mgoldb2 said:


> Money wise no doubt smartest route is get a spool of wire and make a custom runs or use another kind of cable that can be used as mention else ware in thread they used a 4 pin fan extension.
> 
> but if you going to buy an already made male to female 2 pin extension the problem with places like performancePCs(modmymods) & FCPU is they great if you ordering it with other larger items which make the shipping reasonable but if all you buying is 4 cables then the shipping cost make it unreasonable.
> 
> For example 4 of the cables I bought from amazon sells at performancePCs for 15.45 which at first look is $2 cheaper then amazon until you find out they want another ~$15 for shipping while amazon charged me nothing for shipping.


True, if you genuinely need just that one thing. 

I wonder if PPC is having supply line issues? ModmyMods will be working overtime soon if so. 

I'm glad I always double up when buying accessories.


----------



## sakete

jvillaveces said:


> I have an ambient sensor in port 1, and a loop sensor (aquacomputer) in port 2. However, AFAIK, aquasuite should show all 8 ports, even if nothing is connected to them. In my case they¡re simply notr there


I'm not using the newest version of Aquasuite, but for me it only shows the physical sensors I have actually connected (which is 3 + 1 through the D5 Next pump on aquabus).


----------



## ManniX-ITA

sakete said:


> I'm not using the newest version of Aquasuite, but for me it only shows the physical sensors I have actually connected (which is 3 + 1 through the D5 Next pump on aquabus).


Same here, using the latest version. I've connected one yesterday and it just popped up in that section.
Maybe try the Data quick view tab under aquaero->Temperature Sensors; there is a more comprehensive view.
Indeed it'd be better to try a software re-installation.


----------



## ManniX-ITA

@Shoggy

I have a couple of questions about the ULTITOP DDC.

https://shop.aquacomputer.de/product_info.php?products_id=3839

Do you have 120mm fan mounting brackets as for the ULTITOP D5:

https://shop.aquacomputer.de/product_info.php?products_id=3789

Or, I guess not, can the D5 brackets be used also for the DDC version?

Is the top compatible with the "Laing DDC-Pumpe 12V DDC-1T Plus PWM"?
https://shop.aquacomputer.de/product_info.php?products_id=3386

I have this specific model and found out some DDC generic accessories aren't compatible with this one, it doesn't have the legs.


----------



## skupples

so do we have a farbwerk master here aside from Shog? 

Please excuse my LED ignorance -

I've gotta WS2801 LED strip that I was gonna setup on an arduino, is it possible to get it running via farbwerk & aquasuite instead?


---- pump questions ---

all quality DDC tops should fit all quality DDCs. just note they're louder, slower, & less expensive than D5, for those reasons.


----------



## jvillaveces

Per the advice of the two people whithout relevant knowledge or experience with the hardware involved, but more importantly because I couldn't think of a better strategy. I uninstalled Aquasuite, removed all traces of it, and cold booted my rig twice. After that I reinstalled Aquasuite, with identical results: it doesn't acknowledge the existence of any Aquaero temp sensors, and it doesn't see my farbwerk 360. As to the latter issue, Device Manager reports a malfunctioning USB device, which is probably a symptom of a broken farbwerk and/or a bad usb cable -- at least I know what to tinker with to try and solve it, and even if I can't, it's just lighting that is compromised, not functionality.
As to the missing temperature sensors, that is a more serious issue, because without them I can't set up controllers for my fans, so the whole Aquaero installation is just pointless. I am sitting next to a puking, flashing. random rainbow with fans going full blast and making a hell of a racket -- hardly what I envisioned when I spent the very serious cash sunk in this rig and the many hours putting it together. Any help would be most welcome.


----------



## sultanofswing

Are you sure you have the USB cable in the right orientation on all your devices?


----------



## jvillaveces

sultanofswing said:


> Are you sure you have the USB cable in the right orientation on all your devices?


Good idea! Thanks, yes, I Double checked and I'm sure


----------



## skupples

eh doesn't matter. strip is defective. lots of dead lights.

guess its time to just get a decent compatible strip.

goal - ambient sync, & separate channel for desk lighting  found my gen 1 farbwerk, time to get cracking.


----------



## ManniX-ITA

skupples said:


> ...
> 
> all quality DDC tops should fit all quality DDCs. just note they're louder, slower, & less expensive than D5, for those reasons.


That's the reason why I bought it 
I'm still not sure what to get, D5, D5 Next, dual D5... 
Still considering if I'm going to re-use it or keep it as a backup.

I'm so tempted to get Dual aqua D5 PWM and put them on EK-XTOP Revo Dual D5 Serial.
But I've read complaints it's noisy... also I don't like the reservoir.

I'd like to avoid a very expensive mistake of course.


----------



## GTXJackBauer

ManniX-ITA said:


> That's the reason why I bought it
> I'm still not sure what to get, D5, D5 Next, dual D5...
> Still considering if I'm going to re-use it or keep it as a backup.
> 
> I'm so tempted to get Dual aqua D5 PWM and put them on EK-XTOP Revo Dual D5 Serial.
> But I've read complaints it's noisy... also I don't like the reservoir.
> 
> I'd like to avoid a very expensive mistake of course.


DDCs have more pressure but less flow, more noisy and have a smaller footprint than the D5s. I don't mind them but enjoy the dual D5s currently.

Also, I have the EK Dual D5 with that small reservoir but I connect a cylinder res to it. Have no noise issues at all. Actually it's a ton quieter than my dual DDCs while running at 90% PWM.


----------



## skupples

if money isn't an issue, dual D5s, under one top. personally, I think NEXT is a bit extra, but that's the name of the game for many of us. 

Personally, i don't click farm on social media(reddit is social media), and I spend very little time inside my case once its built, so read outs on pumps are near useless and redundant for me. I'd go with EK's dual PWM D5 kit and call it a day.


----------



## ManniX-ITA

GTXJackBauer said:


> DDCs have more pressure but less flow, more noisy and have a smaller footprint than the D5s. I don't mind them but enjoy the dual D5s currently.
> 
> Also, I have the EK Dual D5 with that small reservoir but I connect a cylinder res to it. Have no noise issues at all. Actually it's a ton quieter than my dual DDCs while running at 90% PWM.


Didn't know they have more pressure.
But indeed silence for me it's n.1 factor; I'll have to see how much flow I need.
This DDC at low speed is pretty quiet and I guess much better with a proper top.

Do you mean you have EK-RES X3 150 Lite and on top another cylinder res in the loop?



skupples said:


> if money isn't an issue, dual D5s, under one top. personally, I think NEXT is a bit extra, but that's the name of the game for many of us.
> 
> Personally, i don't click farm on social media, & I don't look my own system any longer than I have to. I look @ a high res high hz monitor


Well, I don't care about aesthetics at all 

I was a bit tempted by the Next operation via the buttons and the flow sensor.
But the flow sensor it's not accurate as the external and I'm not sure how much useful is to have the display and buttons...

Thanks both for the inputs!


----------



## broodro0ster

jvillaveces said:


> I have an ambient sensor in port 1, and a loop sensor (aquacomputer) in port 2. However, AFAIK, aquasuite should show all 8 ports, even if nothing is connected to them. In my case they¡re simply notr there


I just checked my setup and it only shows the sensors that are connected. So if you're sure the sensors are correctly connected, there is something else wrong.
Make sure the sensor plug is vertical on the board and not horizontal.



jvillaveces said:


> Per the advice of the two people whithout relevant knowledge or experience with the hardware involved, but more importantly because I couldn't think of a better strategy. I uninstalled Aquasuite, removed all traces of it, and cold booted my rig twice. After that I reinstalled Aquasuite, with identical results: it doesn't acknowledge the existence of any Aquaero temp sensors, and it doesn't see my farbwerk 360. As to the latter issue, Device Manager reports a malfunctioning USB device, which is probably a symptom of a broken farbwerk and/or a bad usb cable -- at least I know what to tinker with to try and solve it, and even if I can't, it's just lighting that is compromised, not functionality.
> As to the missing temperature sensors, that is a more serious issue, because without them I can't set up controllers for my fans, so the whole Aquaero installation is just pointless. I am sitting next to a puking, flashing. random rainbow with fans going full blast and making a hell of a racket -- hardly what I envisioned when I spent the very serious cash sunk in this rig and the many hours putting it together. Any help would be most welcome.


Can you try to connected the Farbwerk via aquabus to Aquaero instead to see if that solves the issue?


----------



## Shoggy

jvillaveces said:


> I just finished building my new PC. I put in a brand new Aquaero 6LT. I'm stuck trying to set things up in Aquasuite (version X-16) because the aquaero sensors tab doesn't show any of the temp sensors. Do I have a bad aquaero? A bad aquasuite install?


Can't be a problem with the software since it can only show the data that the aquaero provides. If you have no sensor value, it means the aquaero has not detected one. Since the device came with four sensors, have you already tried the other ones? Have you also tried to use the other ports? Maybe just connect all of them for a test.



jvillaveces said:


> While I'm at it, I have another problem with my installation: I put in a Farbwerk , but it doesn't show in Aquasuite. It's driving a couple of RGBpx strips, and they are working, but I have no control over them. The farbwerk is connected to USB. How can I get Aquasuite to recognize it?


Your main problem is that the device is not detected by your PC in general, otherwise you would have it available in the software. Easiest thing to try first: use a different USB port on your mainboard and maybe swap the USB cable with the one from the aquaero. If you are sing a USB hub, I highly recommend to connect the device directly to the mainboard for a test. Some mainboard chipsets (mainly AMD) have problems with specific USB protocols when devices are connected through a USB hub.

If none of this helps you can try you luck with the freeware tool USBDeview:

http://www.nirsoft.net/utils/usbdeview.zip (32bit)

http://www.nirsoft.net/utils/usbdeview-x64.zip (64bit)

When you run the program it will show you all USB devices that are currently attached and have been attached in the past. There is a column called VendorID. Click on its name to sort the list and look for devices with the ID "0c70". This is the ID for our devices. Delete all entries with this ID by selecting them and clicking on the trash can icon in the upper left corner. Just confirm the request to delete the entry.

Afterwards resart the PC and check the program again. If the aquaereo is the only entry for "0c70", than it means the farbwerk has not been detected by the system and there seems to be something seriously wrong with the system or the farbwerk is damaged in some way.

If you have another PC available you could try to connect the farbwerk there to make sure that there is no strange compatibility or configuration problem with your current system.



ManniX-ITA said:


> [MENTION=179030]I have a couple of questions about the ULTITOP DDC.
> 
> https://shop.aquacomputer.de/product_info.php?products_id=3839
> 
> Do you have 120mm fan mounting brackets as for the ULTITOP D5:
> 
> https://shop.aquacomputer.de/product_info.php?products_id=3789
> 
> Or, I guess not, can the D5 brackets be used also for the DDC version?
> 
> Is the top compatible with the "Laing DDC-Pumpe 12V DDC-1T Plus PWM"?
> https://shop.aquacomputer.de/product_info.php?products_id=3386
> 
> I have this specific model and found out some DDC generic accessories aren't compatible with this one, it doesn't have the legs.


The Ultitop DDC is not compatible with the D5 fan mount. We do not have a fan mount for the DDC variant.
The top can be also used with the 1T Plus PWM variant.


----------



## GTXJackBauer

ManniX-ITA said:


> Didn't know they have more pressure.
> But indeed silence for me it's n.1 factor; I'll have to see how much flow I need.
> This DDC at low speed is pretty quiet and I guess much better with a proper top.
> 
> Do you mean you have EK-RES X3 150 Lite and on top another cylinder res in the loop?


I pretty much have this setup currently. I wanted to go with a taller cylinder rez, the next size up but it gets too close to the top fan/rad since I use the top as a return and a fill port of course.


----------



## jvillaveces

Shoggy said:


> Can't be a problem with the software since it can only show the data that the aquaero provides. If you have no sensor value, it means the aquaero has not detected one. Since the device came with four sensors, have you already tried the other ones? Have you also tried to use the other ports? Maybe just connect all of them for a test.
> 
> Your main problem is that the device is not detected by your PC in general, otherwise you would have it available in the software. Easiest thing to try first: use a different USB port on your mainboard and maybe swap the USB cable with the one from the aquaero. If you are sing a USB hub, I highly recommend to connect the device directly to the mainboard for a test. Some mainboard chipsets (mainly AMD) have problems with specific USB protocols when devices are connected through a USB hub.
> 
> If none of this helps you can try you luck with the freeware tool USBDeview:
> 
> http://www.nirsoft.net/utils/usbdeview.zip (32bit)
> 
> http://www.nirsoft.net/utils/usbdeview-x64.zip (64bit)
> 
> When you run the program it will show you all USB devices that are currently attached and have been attached in the past. There is a column called VendorID. Click on its name to sort the list and look for devices with the ID "0c70". This is the ID for our devices. Delete all entries with this ID by selecting them and clicking on the trash can icon in the upper left corner. Just confirm the request to delete the entry.
> 
> Afterwards resart the PC and check the program again. If the aquaereo is the only entry for "0c70", than it means the farbwerk has not been detected by the system and there seems to be something seriously wrong with the system or the farbwerk is damaged in some way.
> 
> If you have another PC available you could try to connect the farbwerk there to make sure that there is no strange compatibility or configuration problem with your current system.


Thank you for your quick and thorough reply and the tip about usbdeview. I ran it, and it shows several Oc70 devices, see screen capture. The Aquaero and Vision are identified by name, I don't know what the others might be.

Unfortunately, in order to perform the tests you suggest I will have to dismantle my rig, something I'm not looking forward to. I will post my results when I'm done. FWIW, the only two USB2 devices on my system are the aquaero and the vision, so they are not connected through a USB hub, but directly to the motherboard. I can't swap the cables, because the AQ6 uses a conventional USB2 cable, whereas the Farbwerk uses a proprietary connector on the device end. I will move the FW to another port on the mobo and see what happens. I will also try other temp sensors in all ports, and post my results when I'm done.

EDIT: Sorry but after many attempts I was unable to upload the screencap. Apparently image posting is broken again
EDIT: I was finally able to upload the screen capture today


----------



## broodro0ster

Use imgur to upload pictures.


----------



## war4peace

ManniX-ITA said:


> That's the reason why I bought it
> I'm still not sure what to get, D5, D5 Next, dual D5...
> Still considering if I'm going to re-use it or keep it as a backup.
> 
> I'm so tempted to get Dual aqua D5 PWM and put them on EK-XTOP Revo Dual D5 Serial.
> But I've read complaints it's noisy... also I don't like the reservoir.
> 
> I'd like to avoid a very expensive mistake of course.


I have that volute and 2x EKWB D5 pumps running both at 100%. There is very, very little noise coming out of them. With only 4x 230mm fans running at 400 RPM, the fans are the "noisiest" (less noisy than a mouse click), then the pumps, but you can only hear the pumps if I open the case side and get very close and listen attentively.
To put things into perspective, I have a pendulum-style clock outside my PC room, on the hallway, and I can still hear its tick-tock with the door closed, sounding "louder" than my PC.

Strictly speaking about PC noises, the top 5 noise makers are:
- Myself (I tend to swear while gaming)
- Keyboard
- Mouse
- Radiator fans
- Pumps
The latter two being just above the hearing threshold.


----------



## ManniX-ITA

Thanks for the advice guys; at the end I'll have to make Sven happy and buy a bunch of aqua D5 PWM pumps


----------



## Shoggy

jvillaveces said:


> FWIW, the only two USB2 devices on my system are the aquaero and the vision, so they are not connected through a USB hub, but directly to the motherboard. I can't swap the cables, because the AQ6 uses a conventional USB2 cable, whereas the Farbwerk uses a proprietary connector on the device end.


Your farbwerk controller is not connected by USB? Then it is no wonder that you can not access it.


----------



## jvillaveces

Shoggy said:


> Your farbwerk controller is not connected by USB? Then it is no wonder that you can not access it.


My bad. Yes it is. The Vision connects through an external port, the aquaero and farbwerk through motherboard headers

EDIT: I shut down and unplugged the system, unplugged the FW from the mobo, booted up without it, shut down, plugged it back in, got the following:

What next? RMA? New cable?


----------



## jvillaveces

I bit the bullet and disassembled my rig enough to get at the Aquacomputer gear. I have bad news and worse news.

First, the Farbwerk: I have two USB cables, one that came with it and spare. With either of them in any header, the fw is not recognized. By now it's clear the device is defdective.
Second, the temp sensors on the AQ6: by moving them to other headers on the aquaero, I got both of them to work. Unfortunately, they both show negative temperatures (!!!). The absolute values appear correct, but they are preceded by a minus sign, so they are useless for setting my fan curve controller.

It would appear that the two brand new pieces of Aquacomputer gear I bought for this build malfunctioned out of the box. Replacing them is going to be a major pita, plus getting replacements with all the shipping delays is going to be a headache.


----------



## sakete

jvillaveces said:


> I bit the bullet and disassembled my rig enough to get at the Aquacomputer gear. I have bad news and worse news.
> 
> 
> 
> First, the Farbwerk: I have two USB cables, one that came with it and spare. With either of them in any header, the fw is not recognized. By now it's clear the device is defdective.
> 
> Second, the temp sensors on the AQ6: by moving them to other headers on the aquaero, I got both of them to work. Unfortunately, they both show negative temperatures (!!!). The absolute values appear correct, but they are preceded by a minus sign, so they are useless for setting my fan curve controller.
> 
> 
> 
> It would appear that the two brand new pieces of Aquacomputer gear I bought for this build malfunctioned out of the box. Replacing them is going to be a major pita, plus getting replacements with all the shipping delays is going to be a headache.


Did you by chance get the polarity wrong on the temp sensors? Wonder if that could give the negative value reading.


----------



## wa3pnt

sakete said:


> Did you by chance get the polarity wrong on the temp sensors? Wonder if that could give the negative value reading.


To the best of my knowledge, the two pin temperature sensors have no polarity associated with them.
They are just two wires attached to a thermistor.

RodeoGeorge


----------



## sakete

wa3pnt said:


> To the best of my knowledge, the two pin temperature sensors have no polarity associated with them.
> They are just two wires attached to a thermistor.
> 
> RodeoGeorge


Ah, didn't know that. I just thought I got lucky on first try


----------



## sultanofswing

Yea polarity does not matter.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## ManniX-ITA

@Shoggy;

I was watching D5 Next reviews on Youtube, this one:






says the Next's minimum rpm is 2000rpm while the other D5 pumps can go down to 1400rpm.
Is this correct?

Is it sufficient to connect the Next to the aquaero via aquabus or is the USB connection required for firmware update?

I was considering an Ultitop reservoir but... there's steel inside. Had to ditch it.
Is there maybe any plan to make a version metal-free for all copper loops?


----------



## war4peace

jvillaveces said:


> Second, the temp sensors on the AQ6: by moving them to other headers on the aquaero, I got both of them to work. Unfortunately, they both show negative temperatures (!!!). The absolute values appear correct, but they are preceded by a minus sign, so they are useless for setting my fan curve controller.


You can work your way around it by setting up virtual temperature sensors in the Playground. See image below.


----------



## Shoggy

jvillaveces said:


> First, the Farbwerk: I have two USB cables, one that came with it and spare. With either of them in any header, the fw is not recognized. By now it's clear the device is defdective.
> 
> Second, the temp sensors on the AQ6: by moving them to other headers on the aquaero, I got both of them to work. Unfortunately, they both show negative temperatures (!!!).


Could you please remove the black cover from the farbwerk and provide a good photo of the controller board?

Which sensor type is that? If it is just the small flat sensors that also come with the aquaero, how did you mount them? They are sensitive to pressure and can break if too much force is applied onto them.

Did you also try connect the sensors that came with the aquaero? It looks very suspicious to me that both sensors show the same wrong value, so I think it is more likely that the aquaero has a problem. A faulty soldering point could cause this effect for example.



ManniX-ITA said:


> says the Next's minimum rpm is 2000rpm while the other D5 pumps can go down to 1400rpm.
> Is this correct?
> 
> Is it sufficient to connect the Next to the aquaero via aquabus or is the USB connection required for firmware update?
> 
> I was considering an Ultitop reservoir but... there's steel inside. Had to ditch it.
> Is there maybe any plan to make a version metal-free for all copper loops?


The minimum speed of the D5 NEXT is about 1900-2100 rpm (varies from pump to pump). There are several different revisions of the D5 pump in the market with different minimum speed settings. We decided to keep it at about 2000 rpm as minimum since lower speeds have almost no useful flow rate and the pump is also almost inaudible at this level anyway.

Firmware updates always require a USB connection.

The only part of the the ULTITOP adapter that is in contact with water is the acetal body. Where do you see steel? The only steel part is its mounting bracket and the mounting ring is made of anodized aluminum which has no contact to the coolant at all since it sits outside the flow path. If you meant the ULTITUBE reservoirs: pretty much the same. So what are you worrying about? Even though there would be stainless steel in the flow path it would be no issue. We use stainless steel in many products since the early days till today. All of our GPU blocks for example were using a stainless steel covers for about 15 years before the acrylic covers became more popular.

Both products will not see any changes since there is absolutely no requirement for that.


----------



## broodro0ster

FYI, the jet places in CPU and GPU blocks are also steel. My Heatkiller res has also a steel plate in the bottom. This causes no issues what so ever.
Just use a quality coolant like Mayhems and you'll have no issues.


----------



## ManniX-ITA

broodro0ster said:


> FYI, the jet places in CPU and GPU blocks are also steel. My Heatkiller res has also a steel plate in the bottom. This causes no issues what so ever.
> Just use a quality coolant like Mayhems and you'll have no issues.


Yeah I'm trying to avoid that 
No jet plates in my blocks, only copper. Heatkiller IV.
Res with steel too aren't in my list.

I was considering the EK-RES X3 150 Lite which is using an Acrylic tube.
But the EK-XTOP Revo Dual D5 wasn't available to order.
And it's back now ... I'll have to re-think again 

Still wondering if to get the D5 Next or not; the internal flow sensor is convenient.
I'm waiting Shoggy to shed some light on the minimum rpm.

Mixing copper and steel can be done but will cause oxidation; I'm really not fond at all about maintenance.
I want to keep it as a rare event as possible; draining the loop, cleaning of the blocks... it's a nightmare for me.

I'm using the mysterious CKC from Alphacool right now, hope there's not too much bad stuff inside.
In theory should be safe for copper.


----------



## GTXJackBauer

I've been using Aquacomputer's Clear Ultra with a few mixed metals in my loop for a few years now with no issue. I maintain it by draining and refilling the loop annually.

When I used to use distilled and silver, my copper blocks would get pretty oxidized annually but that has since stopped.


----------



## sakete

Hey @Shoggy, if I have purchased over $600 worth of Aquacomputer gear, do I get a free T-shirt?


----------



## skupples

ONLY copper? good luck with that impossibility.

you realize your pump is plastic, graphite, and some other stuff, right? N 99.99% of fittings are brass. N many blocks are only copper on the cold plate, everything else being brass. 

galvanic corrosion is a thing, no matter what you do. proper coolant is a must if you want to maintain your stuff for years on end. 

only way you're getting anywhere close to pure copper is if you're running copper lines. otherwise, your radiators are mostly copper. n everything else is mostly brass.


----------



## jvillaveces

Shoggy said:


> Could you please remove the black cover from the farbwerk and provide a good photo of the controller board?
> 
> Which sensor type is that? If it is just the small flat sensors that also come with the aquaero, how did you mount them? They are sensitive to pressure and can break if too much force is applied onto them.
> 
> Did you also try connect the sensors that came with the aquaero? It looks very suspicious to me that both sensors show the same wrong value, so I think it is more likely that the aquaero has a problem. A faulty soldering point could cause this effect for example.


Here are some pictures of my Farbwerk.

On the subject of the temp sensors, I tried @war4peace's excellent advice, but it turns out that now both sensors are stuck at a constant temperature of -27.1ºC, so the sign is moot. The ambient is one of the sensors that came with the AQ6, taped to the chassis where it shouldn't be too influenced by my loop; the rad sensor is an "Aquacomputer G1/4" Inline Temperature Sensor, Female to Male".


----------



## war4peace

sakete said:


> Hey @Shoggy, if I have purchased over $600 worth of Aquacomputer gear, do I get a free T-shirt?


In that case I'd get a whole outfit, given that THE watercooling shop from my country is now selling Aquacomputer hardware based on my advice. And they sell. Personally I bought the following:
- 3x Aquaero 6 LT
- 1x Aquaero 5
- 3x Quadro
- 3x Farbwerk 360
- 1x Farbwerk
- 3x High Flow monitoring devices
Plus an uncounted number of Hubby7, Splitty9 and an assortment of cables, RGB and RGBpx strips and so on.

Plus some friends bought Aquacomputer hardware I recommended. 
Great hardware deserves recognition.


----------



## ManniX-ITA

skupples said:


> ONLY copper? good luck with that impossibility.
> 
> you realize your pump is plastic, graphite, and some other stuff, right? N 99.99% of fittings are brass. N many blocks are only copper on the cold plate, everything else being brass.
> 
> galvanic corrosion is a thing, no matter what you do. proper coolant is a must if you want to maintain your stuff for years on end.
> 
> only way you're getting anywhere close to pure copper is if you're running copper lines. otherwise, your radiators are mostly copper. n everything else is mostly brass.


Yeah I know, I meant besides that 
All my fittings of course are brass, valves, internal radiator parts etc etc
But steel is the worst material if we talk exclusively about oxidation with copper.

It's going to happen anyway but there's a huge difference with or without other metals in contact with the fluid.


----------



## ManniX-ITA

Shoggy said:


> ...
> The minimum speed of the D5 NEXT is about 1900-2100 rpm (varies from pump to pump). There are several different revisions of the D5 pump in the market with different minimum speed settings. We decided to keep it at about 2000 rpm as minimum since lower speeds have almost no useful flow rate and the pump is also almost inaudible at this level anyway.
> 
> Firmware updates always require a USB connection.
> 
> The only part of the the ULTITOP adapter that is in contact with water is the acetal body. Where do you see steel? The only steel part is its mounting bracket and the mounting ring is made of anodized aluminum which has no contact to the coolant at all since it sits outside the flow path. If you meant the ULTITUBE reservoirs: pretty much the same. So what are you worrying about? Even though there would be stainless steel in the flow path it would be no issue. We use stainless steel in many products since the early days till today. All of our GPU blocks for example were using a stainless steel covers for about 15 years before the acrylic covers became more popular.
> 
> Both products will not see any changes since there is absolutely no requirement for that.


Thanks for the info about the pump, the noise level is what matters if it's the same it's perfectly fine.
I've added an Hubby7 to the shopping cart...

Yes I meant the Ultitube res sorry for the typo 

You are right mixing stainless steel and copper, doesn't make any difference.
Unless there's no dieletric union and they are in direct contact.

Sorry but I've never been much invested in WC, it's not my field and I was relaying on so called "experts" knowledge.
Like this one:

https://www.advancedenergy.com/glob...ite-papers/galvanic-corrosion-white-paper.pdf

_"This report details best practices for reducing the risk of
galvanic corrosion in water cooling system designs. Galvanic
corrosion will manifest if the following conditions exist:
1 Electrically dissimilar metals in contact (*or both in
contact with the same water*)"_

I didn't really thought too much about it; took it for granted, which is always a bad idea.

Just called my cousin who's a real expert in material chemistry and he told me it's total unscientific BS.

The explanation is quite simple; ions can move through water but not electrons.
Unless the pH is extremely high but then the corrosion from the acid solution would be your first issue, not the galvanic corrosion.

So copper will always corrode just with direct contact with water, no matter if there's another metal or not in the loop.
I had hope to minimize maintenance using almost only copper but actually I'm going to need more 
Joy and pain of copper's exceptional thermal characteristics!


----------



## skupples

ManniX-ITA said:


> Yeah I know, I meant besides that
> All my fittings of course are brass, valves, internal radiator parts etc etc
> But steel is the worst material if we talk exclusively about oxidation with copper.
> 
> It's going to happen anyway but there's a huge difference with or without other metals in contact with the fluid.


you're right, but over stating/obsessing/OCD'ing. I've been doing this for awhile, almost exclusively with EK products (SS jet plates) and have never had any serious copper oxidation issues. Mayhems FTW, and leave your reservoir full and close


----------



## ManniX-ITA

skupples said:


> you're right, but over stating/obsessing/OCD'ing. I've been doing this for awhile, almost exclusively with EK products (SS jet plates) and have never had any serious copper oxidation issues. Mayhems FTW, and leave your reservoir full and close


I'm obsessed by these videos day-long maintenance session with waterblocks fins clogged by green spam... I'm probably stressing myself too much 

Sorry for my ignorance, but what's the deal about the Mayhems fluids?

Everyone seems so much in love with them.
But Alphacool is very strong in advising they don't cover warranty, even for Aqua products, if you use them:

*Attention: The manufacturer Mayhems advises that Mayhems fluids, especially the Aurora line of products, have been manufactured and distributed solely for show and modding purposes. These should not be used in the system for more than 14 days.

We would also like to advise that Mayhems fluids can damage water cooling products, and using Mayhems fluids can thereby void the warranties offered by the following manufacturers: Koolance, Phobya, Alphacool, Aqua Computer, Watercool.
*

Watercool recommends to use only distilled water and citric acid...


----------



## skupples

green spam is from garbage coolant, lack of properly cleaned radiators/parts, + zero maintenance. 

idc what the owner says, they're lying if it doesn't line up with -

I used tap water to clean my radiators, didn't remove machining oil from blocks, used EKCRYOFULEL, ignored for a year.

Alphacool is nicknamed ALPHASTOOL for a reason. They're utter garbage. N that blurb is woefully out of date. pretty much every mayhems product has been re-engineered twice to be safer & cleaner since that's gone up. 

pretty much everyone accepts Mayhems coolant. Even EK (now that cryofuel is cheap garbage, and not Mayhems X1) 

you know what everyone truly doesn't accept? silver kill coils.

general rule of thumb though - if RMA, tell them you use their snake oil coolant... but if you do this right, that'll never be an issue.

the two main things you've gotta worry about 

A.) properly cleaning components before using them
B.) Mayhems/Aquacomputer coolant, or home made coolant that covers the major issues. bio, ph, & surfactant.

like, if you're unwilling to use mayhems/aquacomputer, your only other viable option is home brew. dead water, sys prep, utopia, silver coils, etc are all garbage products that barely cover one scope of coolant health. not to mention dead water is copper sulfate, which you'll have plenty of in your loop thanks to radiators.


----------



## war4peace

ManniX-ITA said:


> Sorry for my ignorance, but what's the deal about the Mayhems fluids?


They are hands-down THE best.
The Pastel White I've been using for over two years now in my machine (unchanged) is still going strong, no sign of aging or color changing. I drained the loop a few times but put the same liquid back in (added 100 ml every now and then due to some liquid evaporating through tubes).
Mayhems Pastel is all I've been using since the beginning, white in my build (previously black) and red in my wife's build.


----------



## GTXJackBauer

Add aluminum to the loop if you want to see oxidization to the next level.  In otherwords, DO NOT add aluminum to a mixed metal loop.

I have mixed feelings about Mayhems colored fluids. I've seen how nasty things can get and the best course is from a trusted source of clear fluids and if color is needed, use color tubing (PrimoChill Advanced LRT) and RGB lighting.


----------



## ManniX-ITA

Thanks for all the valuable inputs :specool:

I'm probably going for the Aqua fluid next.
Don't really care about aesthetics or colored stuff myself.

And if really needed for RMA I'll tell Alphacool I'm still using CKC


----------



## skupples

GTXJackBauer said:


> Add aluminum to the loop if you want to see oxidization to the next level.  In otherwords, DO NOT add aluminum to a mixed metal loop.
> 
> I have mixed feelings about Mayhems colored fluids. I've seen how nasty things can get and the best course is from a trusted source of clear fluids and if color is needed, use color tubing (PrimoChill Advanced LRT) and RGB lighting.


right, which is why folks recommend X1 clear/UV.

the dyes and aurora has come a long way. It for sure was only stable for a few weeks 10 years ago when alphacool put that statement up.

#MayhemsIsPigeonPoop


----------



## broodro0ster

GTXJackBauer said:


> Add aluminum to the loop if you want to see oxidization to the next level.  In otherwords, DO NOT add aluminum to a mixed metal loop.
> 
> I have mixed feelings about Mayhems colored fluids. I've seen how nasty things can get and the best course is from a trusted source of clear fluids and if color is needed, use color tubing (PrimoChill Advanced LRT) and RGB lighting.


What nasty things have you seen? The only nasty thing you can have seen is someone using pastel with zero prep. Pastel requires good prep and this is actually stated by Mayhems. Use the Blitz kit before using pastel and you should be good. 
I'm using pastel for 1.5 years now and I blitzed my loop before using it. No color change, temps are still the same like day 1. 

Because I had too much time during the corono crisis, I drained my loop to check out my blocks. They look brand new. I've filled up my rig again with the old coolant and I'll keep using it until it's 3 years old. That's when you need to replace it as per manual.
Here is a picture of the GPU block: https://imgur.com/a/TFRqSY2 I didn't flush it or clean it first. This is how I took it out of the system. It was looking brand new after a simple flush with distillend and it was in the loop for 1.5 years without any maintenance.

If you're scared about pastel, get Mayhems X1 or biocide+ with inhibitor+. There are clear coolant that won't give you any troubles. It's the best coolant on the market right now.


----------



## GTXJackBauer

broodro0ster said:


> What nasty things have you seen? The only nasty thing you can have seen is someone using pastel with zero prep. Pastel requires good prep and this is actually stated by Mayhems. Use the Blitz kit before using pastel and you should be good.
> I'm using pastel for 1.5 years now and I blitzed my loop before using it. No color change, temps are still the same like day 1.
> 
> Because I had too much time during the corono crisis, I drained my loop to check out my blocks. They look brand new. I've filled up my rig again with the old coolant and I'll keep using it until it's 3 years old. That's when you need to replace it as per manual.
> Here is a picture of the GPU block: https://imgur.com/a/TFRqSY2 I didn't flush it or clean it first. This is how I took it out of the system. It was looking brand new after a simple flush with distillend and it was in the loop for 1.5 years without any maintenance.
> 
> If you're scared about pastel, get Mayhems X1 or biocide+ with inhibitor+. There are clear coolant that won't give you any troubles. It's the best coolant on the market right now.


I'm sure if done right, it should last but when you add too many steps just for fluid, some will not follow. I can't tell you how many times I've seen gear being sold on the bay with stains all over the place. My first question to the sellers are, if they used any colored fluid even though on some instances, it's clear as day.

On my personal experience, I think some of the best clear fluids out there is the Aquacomputer's Clear Double Protect Ultra Coolant. Have bought so much of it cause it's so darn good. lol No need for prepping, just pour and drain/refill annually.


----------



## Shoggy

ManniX-ITA said:


> Still wondering if to get the D5 Next or not; the internal flow sensor is convenient.


If this is the main reason what attracts you to the pump, then stay away! This is no real flow sensor, it is a virtual one which calculates the theoretical flow rate based on some operating data of the pump.

This feature also comes with some requirements (copied from the manual):


> *Prerequisites for use:*
> ● Double Protect Ultra as coolant
> ● Pump speed of at least 3000 rpm
> ● Flow rate of at least 80 l/h
> ● No additional pump in the cooling system
> ● Calibration process completed
> 
> Flow rates below 80 l/h will not be displayed due to increasing imprecision of the calculation method for low flow rates. For calibration, the pump has to be operated with blocked coolant flow for a short period of time. This can be achieved by kinking a hose within the coolant loop or by closing a ball valve/stop valve installed into the coolant loop.


If you wonder about the requirement for our coolant. It is not to force people to buy our coolant, the simple reason is that the calculations are based on the viscosity of our coolant. If you use another coolant it is hard to tell how it will affect the calculated flow rate because of a lower or higher viscosity.

Even if you comply with all of the requirements, the accuracy can still vary a lot and if you are unlucky the virtual flow sensor feature might not work at all in your loop.



sakete said:


> Hey @Shoggy, if I have purchased over $600 worth of Aquacomputer gear, do I get a free T-shirt?


We do not have any merchandising stuff at all at the moment.



jvillaveces said:


> Here are some pictures of my Farbwerk.
> 
> On the subject of the temp sensors, I tried @war4peace's excellent advice, but it turns out that now both sensors are stuck at a constant temperature of -27.1ºC, so the sign is moot. The ambient is one of the sensors that came with the AQ6, taped to the chassis where it shouldn't be too influenced by my loop; the rad sensor is an "Aquacomputer G1/4" Inline Temperature Sensor, Female to Male".


Thanks for the photos but I am much more interested in the front side (without cables) where the electronic components are located 
The backside does not show anything relevant.

I still highly recommend that you connect further temperature sensors to the aquaero. You can use the sensors that came with the aquaero. If they also show the same stupid values it is pretty safe to say that the aquaero has a problem and not the sensors. If you own a multimeter you could also test the sensors. These sensors should show a resistance of 10kOhm at 25°C.



ManniX-ITA said:


> Sorry for my ignorance, but what's the deal about the Mayhems fluids?


Mayhems offers a lot of opaque coolants. The problem with such coolants (also from other brands) is that they contain particles that can clog blocks or the mechanics of the pump. In D5 pumps such coolants can grind down the bearing of the impeller. In aquastream pumps it often blocks the impeller because of the tiny play between the axis and bearing. I have dealt with many of such unjustified complaints.

My best advice: stay away from opaque coolants!


----------



## sultanofswing

I'm having a weird Issue I cannot figure out. I run a Aquaero 6 XT and use that to control 3 d5 pumps based off PWM.
So here is the issue. I did a drain and refill of my loop. Cleaned up some wiring in the back of my case and filled it back up.

I have completely lost PWM control of 1 of my Aquacomputer D5's. No matter which fan header I use on the Aquaero it won't go over 1830RPM. Have tried all fan headers and messed with Aquasuite til i'm blue in the face.
I even took another brand D5 pump and that pump works fine off the Aquaero and PWM can be controlled.

Here is the strange part, I decided to see what would happen if I plugged the Aquacomputer pump into my motherboard to test. PWM works on my motherboard.

Do I have a pump issue or an Aquaero issue? 

Very confused by this.


----------



## skupples

did you happen to damage the cable?

I'd inspect the pump closely, if its not working anywhere.

see if it'll pull PWM from your board, and when it doesn't, it's time to investigate possible damage/dislodging during the drain & fill.


----------



## sultanofswing

skupples said:


> did you happen to damage the cable?
> 
> I'd inspect the pump closely, if its not working anywhere.
> 
> see if it'll pull PWM from your board, and when it doesn't, it's time to investigate possible damage/dislodging during the drain & fill.


PWM from my motherboard controls the pump just fine as previously stated.


----------



## WiLd FyeR

Question on the Aqua Computer 53256 Fan Controller. Is it the same thing as the Aquaero 5/6 as for controlling fans? Uses Aquasuite?


----------



## skupples

sultanofswing said:


> PWM from my motherboard controls the pump just fine as previously stated.


oh, missed that.

might wanna default the aquaero.

i'd still sanity check solder points, wires, & terminals.


----------



## sultanofswing

skupples said:


> oh, missed that.
> 
> might wanna default the aquaero.



I was reading about doing that, I need to find 4 jumpers or something to jump the 4 temp sensor pins.


----------



## sultanofswing

OK reset the Aquaero. Still cannot control the pump at all on any of the 4 channels. Can control it with my motherboard just fine.

I can control another D5 on any of the fan channels on the Aquaero just fine.

Confused......


----------



## ManniX-ITA

Shoggy said:


> If this is the main reason what attracts you to the pump, then stay away! This is no real flow sensor, it is a virtual one which calculates the theoretical flow rate based on some operating data of the pump.
> 
> This feature also comes with some requirements (copied from the manual):
> 
> 
> If you wonder about the requirement for our coolant. It is not to force people to buy our coolant, the simple reason is that the calculations are based on the viscosity of our coolant. If you use another coolant it is hard to tell how it will affect the calculated flow rate because of a lower or higher viscosity.
> 
> Even if you comply with all of the requirements, the accuracy can still vary a lot and if you are unlucky the virtual flow sensor feature might not work at all in your loop.
> 
> ...


Not the main reason but was one selling point... I missed the requirements cause I was still half-way reading the manual 

But I'll be honest with myself, I wouldn't have tolerate the low accuracy anyway.
And if it's about luck if it works or not, well I'm not generally lucky.

It's just that I love too much the degree of control you have with aquabus connected devices  
The PWM control, where you can't even know if and how much it's drawing power, feels so primitive.

The harsh reality is that I'm spending thousands on this build and it's just for fun.
It'll probably be better to resist the temptation and buy 3 PWM for the same price of 2 NEXT.


----------



## war4peace

GTXJackBauer said:


> I'm sure if done right, it should last but when you add too many steps just for fluid, some will not follow. I can't tell you how many times I've seen gear being sold on the bay with stains all over the place. My first question to the sellers are, if they used any colored fluid even though on some instances, it's clear as day.


I have prepped none of my systems prior to using Mayhems Pastel, except from running distilled water through a Phobya radiator for a couple hours, once, before assembling it into the system. OTOH all components were brad new when filling loop for the first time.

There has been no staining observed, for any of the components (Waterblocks, radiators, pumps, sensors, fittings, reservoirs, monitoring components, etc).
But I agree other liquid makers might use dyes which stain more.


----------



## broodro0ster

ManniX-ITA said:


> Not the main reason but was one selling point... I missed the requirements cause I was still half-way reading the manual
> 
> But I'll be honest with myself, I wouldn't have tolerate the low accuracy anyway.
> And if it's about luck if it works or not, well I'm not generally lucky.
> 
> It's just that I love too much the degree of control you have with aquabus connected devices
> The PWM control, where you can't even know if and how much it's drawing power, feels so primitive.
> 
> The harsh reality is that I'm spending thousands on this build and it's just for fun.
> It'll probably be better to resist the temptation and buy 3 PWM for the same price of 2 NEXT.


If you want something accurate, get the Aqua Computer High Flow sensor ;-)
https://www.igorslab.de/en/aqua-com...atory-test-what-can-a-flow-meter-for-40-euro/

I just received mine this week and it's a nice piece of hardware. Currently testing 1 vs 2 pumps in my rig to see how it performs.


----------



## InfoSeeker

WiLd FyeR said:


> Question on the Aqua Computer 53256 Fan Controller. Is it the same thing as the Aquaero 5/6 as for controlling fans? Uses Aquasuite?



Yes, the QUADRO is setup with the aquasuite.
Screenshot of the controller below.


----------



## skupples

yep, and they last forever as long as you don't drip water into it.


----------



## sakete

skupples said:


> yep, and they last forever as long as you don't drip water into it.


You'd think "aqua" computer could make them waterproof


----------



## skupples

sure, if they wanted to double the price, and change the utter simplicity of it. 

pin wheel, 2 magnet, hall effect sensor, ????, = most accurate flow meter in WC industry, for now.


----------



## Leonko

LOL i got to look it up, whats "Aqua Computer 53256 Fan Controller"


----------



## InfoSeeker

ManniX-ITA said:


> Spoiler
> 
> 
> 
> Not the main reason but was one selling point... I missed the requirements cause I was still half-way reading the manual
> But I'll be honest with myself, I wouldn't have tolerate the low accuracy anyway.
> And if it's about luck if it works or not, well I'm not generally lucky.
> 
> 
> It's just that I love too much the degree of control you have with aquabus connected devices
> The PWM control, where you can't even know if and how much it's drawing power, feels so primitive.
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler
> 
> 
> 
> The harsh reality is that I'm spending thousands on this build and it's just for fun.
> It'll probably be better to resist the temptation and buy 3 PWM for the same price of 2 NEXT.



The aquabus really gives no additional control over using a USB connection as far as the aquasuite is concerned.
Afaik, using voltage control is the more primitive manner to control fans/pumps.
The aquasuite status panel show RPM, power used, volts & current. (scrteenshot below)
If using the aquabus connection with an octo or quadro, you actually loose the fan controllers off the octo or quadeo.


----------



## ManniX-ITA

broodro0ster said:


> If you want something accurate, get the Aqua Computer High Flow sensor ;-)
> https://www.igorslab.de/en/aqua-com...atory-test-what-can-a-flow-meter-for-40-euro/
> 
> I just received mine this week and it's a nice piece of hardware. Currently testing 1 vs 2 pumps in my rig to see how it performs.


Well I didn't really took much care when I ordered and bought a couple of n.53061:

https://shop.aquacomputer.de/product_info.php?products_id=1655

I guess they are not bad but probably non even remotely good as the high flow.
I don't really need it to be so accurate, just not random.



InfoSeeker said:


> The aquabus really gives no additional control over using a USB connection as far as the aquasuite is concerned.
> Afaik, using voltage control is the more primitive manner to control fans/pumps.
> The aquasuite status panel show RPM, power used, volts & current. (scrteenshot below)
> If using the aquabus connection with an octo or quadro, you actually loose the fan controllers off the octo or quadeo.


What do you mean that you loose it?
I thought the Quadro ports would be managed in the aquaero tab with exactly the same features as with the usb connection.


----------



## broodro0ster

ManniX-ITA said:


> Well I didn't really took much care when I ordered and bought a couple of n.53061:
> 
> https://shop.aquacomputer.de/product_info.php?products_id=1655
> 
> I guess they are not bad but probably non even remotely good as the high flow.
> I don't really need it to be so accurate, just not random.


Hmmm, that one looks for super small fittings. I guess normal sized fittings (10/16mm softtube and any hardtube fitting) will hit eachother.
I'd tried to exchange them if you just got them and aren't in use yet.



ManniX-ITA said:


> What do you mean that you loose it?
> I thought the Quadro ports would be managed in the aquaero tab with exactly the same features as with the usb connection.


Yes, correct. You don't loose anything. It's just in a different place.


----------



## ManniX-ITA

broodro0ster said:


> Hmmm, that one looks for super small fittings. I guess normal sized fittings (10/16mm softtube and any hardtube fitting) will hit eachother.
> I'd tried to exchange them if you just got them and aren't in use yet.
> 
> Yes, correct. You don't loose anything. It's just in a different place.


Yes they are pretty close indeed, I have them since some weeks and using them.
Very small fittings now, 11/8, so not an issue. 
Whatever, I'll drop them and take the high flows when it's the time 

Thanks for the info. I'm ordering an OCTO to extend the Aquaero.


----------



## sultanofswing

So barring the issues I have with my Aquaero 6XT what would you guys recommend I replace it with?

I just don't feel like paying that much again for another Aquaero,even the LT.

Should I just get a couple of Aquadros?

I run 22 fans, 2 flow sensors and would also like to eventually control some case LED's in the future.


----------



## ManniX-ITA

sultanofswing said:


> So barring the issues I have with my Aquaero 6XT what would you guys recommend I replace it with?
> 
> I just don't feel like paying that much again for another Aquaero,even the LT.
> 
> Should I just get a couple of Aquadros?
> 
> I run 22 fans, 2 flow sensors and would also like to eventually control some case LED's in the future.


Sorry to hear that... it isn't anymore in warranty?
It's a pity to drop an XT like that, I guess you can buy an LT and re-use the screen.
I didn't find anything else even remotely similar in features to the Aquaero in the market.


----------



## sultanofswing

ManniX-ITA said:


> Sorry to hear that... it isn't anymore in warranty?
> It's a pity to drop an XT like that, I guess you can buy an LT and re-use the screen.
> I didn't find anything else even remotely similar in features to the Aquaero in the market.


Well I am not sure if it's an issue with the Aquaero or the pump. I posted up the issue but it's such a weird one that I don't think anyone can help.

Basically it comes down to this.
Aquacomputer D5 PWM pump. PWM suddenly stopped working with the 6xt,
Unplugging PWM wire from 6xt pump stays at 1800rpm
Plugging PWM wire into Motherboard I can can control the pump
I can control other pumps with the 6xt no issues

So the situation is weird and i'm not sure what to replace.

The biggest thing I love about the 6xt is I don't have to use the software and it always saves my settings even when switching builds.


----------



## ManniX-ITA

sultanofswing said:


> Well I am not sure if it's an issue with the Aquaero or the pump. I posted up the issue but it's such a weird one that I don't think anyone can help.
> 
> Basically it comes down to this.
> Aquacomputer D5 PWM pump. PWM suddenly stopped working with the 6xt,
> Unplugging PWM wire from 6xt pump stays at 1800rpm
> Plugging PWM wire into Motherboard I can can control the pump
> I can control other pumps with the 6xt no issues
> 
> So the situation is weird and i'm not sure what to replace.
> 
> The biggest thing I love about the 6xt is I don't have to use the software and it always saves my settings even when switching builds.


I agree it's really weird, probably only @Shoggy can help here.

But since the other D5 PWM pumps are working fine I'd say it's less likely the problem is the Aquaero.
Are you using a 4-pin cable extender for the PWM signal?
Guess if you have probably you tried already another one.
Or maybe if you aren't using one try to put it in, even better a Y-splitter and see how it behaves together with another pump.


----------



## sultanofswing

ManniX-ITA said:


> I agree it's really weird, probably only @Shoggy can help here.
> 
> But since the other D5 PWM pumps are working fine I'd say it's less likely the problem is the Aquaero.
> Are you using a 4-pin cable extender for the PWM signal?
> Guess if you have probably you tried already another one.
> Or maybe if you aren't using one try to put it in, even better a Y-splitter and see how it behaves together with another pump.


I've tried a few different 4 pin extensions with the same results.

I have also tried 2 different Y splitters and what happens is when it's combined with another pump it makes the other pump slow down to match the speed of the problem pump.

I don't know how the AQ D5 PWM is supposed to be but usually all my D5's when the PWM signal is not present the RPM will run around 3600rpm or so. On this one that is having the issue unplugging the PWM signal the pump just stays the same.

I'm just confused as to why it works fine on my Motherboards fan header and I can control the PWM and also see the RPM just fine that way.


----------



## ManniX-ITA

sultanofswing said:


> I've tried a few different 4 pin extensions with the same results.
> 
> I have also tried 2 different Y splitters and what happens is when it's combined with another pump it makes the other pump slow down to match the speed of the problem pump.
> 
> I don't know how the AQ D5 PWM is supposed to be but usually all my D5's when the PWM signal is not present the RPM will run around 3600rpm or so. On this one that is having the issue unplugging the PWM signal the pump just stays the same.
> 
> I'm just confused as to why it works fine on my Motherboards fan header and I can control the PWM and also see the RPM just fine that way.


I'm puzzled as well... but the problem seems to be pump if the others behave the same with the Y splitter.


----------



## sultanofswing

ManniX-ITA said:


> I'm puzzled as well... but the problem seems to be pump if the others behave the same with the Y splitter.


Definitely a weird one, Luckily I have 3 D5's in serial. 
I've had pretty bad luck with D5's for some reason.
Got an EK one that RPM signal just randomly stopped working but PWM is still controllable and now this AQ D5 is having issues.

I bought this thing from Titan Rig, Will see if they may be able to help with it but not sure.


----------



## InfoSeeker

ManniX-ITA said:


> Spoiler
> 
> 
> 
> Well I didn't really took much care when I ordered and bought a couple of n.53061:
> 
> https://shop.aquacomputer.de/product_info.php?products_id=1655
> 
> I guess they are not bad but probably non even remotely good as the high flow.
> I don't really need it to be so accurate, just not random.
> 
> 
> What do you mean that you loose it?
> I thought the Quadro ports would be managed in the aquaero tab with exactly the same features as with the usb connection.



You loose controllers.

If you have an aquaero and a quadro sans aquabus, you have 8 fan ports and 8 controllers.
If you connect the quadro with aquabus, you have 8 fan ports and 4 controllers... you loose the 4 controllers on the quadro.
Same for the octo, 12 ports/12 controllers sans aquabus, 12 ports/4 controllers with aquabus.


----------



## ManniX-ITA

InfoSeeker said:


> You loose controllers.
> 
> If you have an aquaero and a quadro sans aquabus, you have 8 fan ports and 8 controllers.
> If you connect the quadro with aquabus, you have 8 fan ports and 4 controllers... you loose the 4 controllers on the quadro.
> Same for the octo, 12 ports/12 controllers sans aquabus, 12 ports/4 controllers with aquabus.


Oh now I see... had no idea there was such limitation.
Thanks for the info, I'll have to consider carefully what to connect and how then.


----------



## sakete

So then what's the point of using aquabus for something like an OCTO if you lose functionality when you do so?

Better to just connect via USB and just skip aquabus?


----------



## ManniX-ITA

sakete said:


> So then what's the point of using aquabus for something like an OCTO if you lose functionality when you do so?
> 
> Better to just connect via USB and just skip aquabus?


I guess otherwise you can't use the fans, temp and flow sensors from the OCTO in the controllers configured in the aquaero


----------



## Leonko

Can anyone explain me, why there is an offset 20°C ?

https://forum.aquacomputer.de/images-ac/2019/aquasuite_octo_09_en.png


----------



## sakete

ManniX-ITA said:


> I guess otherwise you can't use the fans, temp and flow sensors from the OCTO in the controllers configured in the aquaero


So really you need both aquabus + usb for the most functionality?


----------



## skupples

aquabus is USB.

you can unplug the USB after programming aquaero, but I never really saw the point, as then you lose your direct contact with aquasuite. satellites can be hooked up, programmed, and disconnected... but they've gotta be reconnected if you ever wanna update the firmware.


----------



## broodro0ster

InfoSeeker said:


> You loose controllers.
> 
> If you have an aquaero and a quadro sans aquabus, you have 8 fan ports and 8 controllers.
> If you connect the quadro with aquabus, you have 8 fan ports and 4 controllers... you loose the 4 controllers on the quadro.
> Same for the octo, 12 ports/12 controllers sans aquabus, 12 ports/4 controllers with aquabus.


I can make more than 4 controllers on my Aquaero 6LT.


----------



## war4peace

Leonko said:


> Can anyone explain me, why there is an offset 20°C ?
> 
> https://forum.aquacomputer.de/images-ac/2019/aquasuite_octo_09_en.png


Because it's an example?


----------



## WiLd FyeR

Having issues controlling a Noctua NF-F12 PWM fan. When I choose Power or Speed the fan works but when I choose PWM Controlled, the fan doesn't work.


----------



## ManniX-ITA

broodro0ster said:


> I can make more than 4 controllers on my Aquaero 6LT.


You can't make more than 4 curve controllers


----------



## InfoSeeker

ManniX-ITA said:


> I guess otherwise you can't use the fans, temp and flow sensors from the OCTO in the controllers configured in the aquaero



If you use USB only, you CAN pull any data the quadro/octo provide into the aquaero also, by using a software sensor. It also works in the reverse, you can pull aquaero sensors into the quadro/octo. I do not know if the reverse works with aquabus only.


----------



## InfoSeeker

sakete said:


> So really you need both aquabus + usb for the most functionality?



No, if you use aquabus, with or without USB, the fan ports fall under the aquaero and it has only 4 controllers.


----------



## InfoSeeker

WiLd FyeR said:


> Having issues controlling a Noctua NF-F12 PWM fan. When I choose Power or Speed the fan works but when I choose PWM Controlled, the fan doesn't work.



Read THIS THREAD, it may shine some light on your issue.


----------



## InfoSeeker

Leonko said:


> Can anyone explain me, why there is an offset 20°C ?
> 
> https://forum.aquacomputer.de/images-ac/2019/aquasuite_octo_09_en.png



As mentioned, it is an example. It is probably not wise to use CPU/GPU temperatures as the source for any controller.

In this instance, it looks like he was trying to detect if his CPU or GPU was running hotter than normal, and the 20°C offset is used to normalize the delta between normal CPU temp (35) & normal GPU temp (53).


----------



## WiLd FyeR

InfoSeeker said:


> Read THIS THREAD, it may shine some light on your issue.


Thank you for the link. I must of received the batch that didn't have the fix yet but at the same time I didn't know this was an issue. I thought it was a setting that I missed in Aquasuite but all other fans worked.

Would I run into any issues if I continued to use Speed control instead of PWM?


----------



## chibi

Do Be Quiet Silent Wings 3 120mm pwm fans still have the drop in fan speed issue when lowering the duty cycle with an Aquaero 6?


----------



## ManniX-ITA

InfoSeeker said:


> If you use USB only, you CAN pull any data the quadro/octo provide into the aquaero also, by using a software sensor. It also works in the reverse, you can pull aquaero sensors into the quadro/octo. I do not know if the reverse works with aquabus only.


Yes but then I assume until the software system service is running those will not be populated by real values, like the other software sensors.
Basically you can't run it without software.


----------



## ManniX-ITA

WiLd FyeR said:


> Thank you for the link. I must of received the batch that didn't have the fix yet but at the same time I didn't know this was an issue. I thought it was a setting that I missed in Aquasuite but all other fans worked.
> 
> Would I run into any issues if I continued to use Speed control instead of PWM?


I guess you'll loose the PWM benefits; lower min speed, less noise, less power draw.



chibi said:


> Do Be Quiet Silent Wings 3 120mm pwm fans still have the drop in fan speed issue when lowering the duty cycle with an Aquaero 6?


Didn't know there was an issue 
I have one and, hopefully, I'll connect it to the aquaero soon, will let you know.


----------



## broodro0ster

ManniX-ITA said:


> You can't make more than 4 curve controllers



Ah ok. I did int try that yet. But I don’t use curve controller anyway. 

I use a setpoint controller with a delta T of 8.5C so the system auto regulates fan speed to keep a 8.5C delta T. 

And for the PWM pump I use a 2 step controller. 1800rpm idle, 4400rpm when there is heat being generated.


----------



## war4peace

If you have large radiator area, a set point controller would work best. I am using one which monitors the liquid temperature, keeps fans to the minimum if liquid temperature is below 40 degrees Celsius, and slowly ramps them up if that threshold is exceeded. Only happens while heavy gaming during very hot summer days with no AC.


----------



## iamjanco

chibi said:


> Do Be Quiet Silent Wings 3 120mm pwm fans still have the drop in fan speed issue when lowering the duty cycle with an Aquaero 6?


I believe you can mitigate that issue using a Quadro, Octo, or one of the newer splitty's in between your pwm sw3's and the Aquero. Both have pull-up functionality which compensate for the lack of it elsewise. @Shoggy should be able to confirm that, as well as let you know which of the newer splitty's would work best.


----------



## InfoSeeker

ManniX-ITA said:


> Yes but then I assume until the software system service is running those will not be populated by real values, like the other software sensors.
> Basically you can't run it without software.



True, the Computer Service must be running for Software Sensors to work.
If you do not have the Computer Service running (i.e. Linux OS), the aquabus is your friend.


----------



## chibi

iamjanco said:


> I believe you can mitigate that issue using a Quadro, Octo, or one of the newer splitty's in between your pwm sw3's and the Aquero. Both have pull-up functionality which compensate for the lack of it elsewise. @Shoggy should be able to confirm that, as well as let you know which of the newer splitty's would work best.



Thanks for the info janco! I already have an AQ6 so getting a quadro or octo seems like another expense that could be utilized elsewhere. May go with different fans instead.

Edit - looks like newer batches Noctua and EK fans are now facing this issue as well. I have a set of eLoop PWM fans and some Corsair ML's available but both make a humming noise when I close my Caselabs panels with grills.


----------



## iamjanco

chibi said:


> Thanks for the info janco! I already have an AQ6 so getting a quadro or octo seems like another expense that could be utilized elsewhere. May go with different fans instead.
> 
> Edit - looks like newer batches Noctua and EK fans are now facing this issue as well. I have a set of eLoop PWM fans and some Corsair ML's available but both make a humming noise when I close my Caselabs panels with grills.


Np, especially if you haven't bought the SW3s yet. I've known about the problem with them since ITDIVA came up with a fix that can be used to address it.


----------



## sakete

@Shoggy Question about your Aqualis reservoirs. I now have two, a D5 pump mounted version, and a stand-alone res. I'm just unable to figure out how to use the included brackets, as they won't mount to anything inside of a PC case. You sell D5 pump mounting brackets for 120 or 140mm slots. I have both, and the Aqualis brackets don't mount to either of those brackets.

So what were you guys envisioning when you designed these Aqualis brackets? Most modern cases have tons of 120mm and 140mm fan mounting options, but those Aqualis brackets aren't wide enough to fit on anything, and they don't even fit on your own D5 brackets, which is odd.


----------



## Shawnb99

sakete said:


> @Shoggy Question about your Aqualis reservoirs. I now have two, a D5 pump mounted version, and a stand-alone res. I'm just unable to figure out how to use the included brackets, as they won't mount to anything inside of a PC case. You sell D5 pump mounting brackets for 120 or 140mm slots. I have both, and the Aqualis brackets don't mount to either of those brackets.
> 
> So what were you guys envisioning when you designed these Aqualis brackets? Most modern cases have tons of 120mm and 140mm fan mounting options, but those Aqualis brackets aren't wide enough to fit on anything, and they don't even fit on your own D5 brackets, which is odd.



This should match up better then the standard mount on the reservoir. I have two of them myself and had to drill holes to mount them, otherwise nothing matched up. Was really frustrating and a drawback on the reservoir. 
Though it does say you need to still use the standard mount. Could get away without though 

https://www.performance-pcs.com/wat...ter-mount-for-aqualis-reservoir-aq-34043.html


----------



## sakete

Shawnb99 said:


> This should match up better then the standard mount on the reservoir. I have two of them myself and had to drill holes to mount them, otherwise nothing matched up. Was really frustrating and a drawback on the reservoir.
> Though it does say you need to still use the standard mount. Could get away without though
> 
> https://www.performance-pcs.com/wat...ter-mount-for-aqualis-reservoir-aq-34043.html


I've seen those yeah, but I'd be worried it would slip out eventually and fall in the case, spilling all the liquid everywhere. It's just really frustrating that they provide these brackets with the reservoirs that can't be mounted to anything inside a standard case without doing some serious modding. Aquacomputer makes some really great stuff, but those brackets are highly questionable. Just don't get it.


----------



## tistou77

Hello

Do you know if kind of led strip is compatible with the 2pin PWM of the Aquaero 6 (consumption) ?
I think this led strip is less than 12W (1A) but not sure

Thanks


----------



## ManniX-ITA

Thanks for all the fish guys, I've received yesterday 3 Aqua D5 PWM pumps.
And a lot of other stuff... made Sven happy to compensate for all the annoyances 

I'm preparing the build log post for the Peltiers/TEC forum.
Just started writing it and it's already 8000 chars, ouch :doh:

Hope you'll join me there cause I really need some help with WC.
I'm already lost on so many things and I still have to put the first screw on...


----------



## skupples

looks like the time is coming. 

one of my pumps is either failing to spin @ full speed, or is stopping all together.

the difference is ~40lph.

luckily, I found an extra DDC in my storage unit over the weekend, but in reality, it's probably time to replace the entire thing.



UPDATE!!!

crisis averted. seems my pump pwm/power splitter harness is failing. 

i assume the aquaro header would stop pulling rpm if it was dying.


----------



## Section31

I am going to do external radiator setup and figuring out how best to do it using aquacomputer gear. Currently hold one octo, one aquereo 6lt, one hubby 7, two d5 next. Thanks for any help as the system is getting complex.

External Radiator- D5 Next (standalone) to be controlled by its oled controller. The fans would connect to the octo and run the aquabus cable to the internal computer setup or should i get an fan hub (splitty 9) and connect it to the d5. Planning to run 9x140mm fans.

Internal Computer-Aquereo 6 LT, Hubby 7, Aquacomputer USB Hi flow sensor and D5 Next. System has two Usb 2.0 Internal connector. One would connect to the hubby 7. The other would connect to either the D5 Next or Aquereo 6 LT. The flow sensor and one of the D5 Next/Aquereo would go to the Hubby 7.


----------



## broodro0ster

Section31 said:


> I am going to do external radiator setup and figuring out how best to do it using aquacomputer gear. Currently hold one octo, one aquereo 6lt, one hubby 7, two d5 next. Thanks for any help as the system is getting complex.
> 
> External Radiator- D5 Next (standalone) to be controlled by its oled controller. The fans would connect to the octo and run the aquabus cable to the internal computer setup or should i get an fan hub (splitty 9) and connect it to the d5. Planning to run 9x140mm fans.
> 
> Internal Computer-Aquereo 6 LT, Hubby 7, Aquacomputer USB Hi flow sensor and D5 Next. System has two Usb 2.0 Internal connector. One would connect to the hubby 7. The other would connect to either the D5 Next or Aquereo 6 LT. The flow sensor and one of the D5 Next/Aquereo would go to the Hubby 7.


The D5 Next has 25W of output for PWM fans. If that is enough for your fans, I would connect the 9 fans to a Splitty 9 and connect that to your D5 Next.
Then run a long USB and power cable from the D5 Next to the PC. I think this setup will give you the least cable clutter (SATA and USB cable) and you will have full controllability via Aquasuite.

An alternative that requires slightly more cables, is to use the Octo on your external rad. Then connect the D5 Next via Aquabus to your Octo and use 1 fan splitter to power the 9th fan.
This involves a few more cables (Molex, Sata and USB wire + Fan splitter and Aquabus cable)


----------



## war4peace

I have an external radiator (MoRa 420) and what I did was use the pump inside the case and run a PWM cable from the case to a Splitty9 hidden between the fans (4x 230mm), but there was room between the fans to hide it. Also have two 2-ping G1/4 temperature sensors plugged to the MoRa extra G1/4 holes to measure RAD IN and RAD OUT temperatures, I combine the two 2-pin wires into a 4-pin PWM extender which runs back to the Aquaero inside the case, then splits back into 2x2-pin to connect to the Aquaero.
If you have the pump located externally, I suggest you get a ZMT 16/10 tube and run your all your external cables through it, that way you will have three tubes going from case to radiator and the ZMT tube hides the cables very nicely.

I also recommend using USB cable to connect the pump to the PC USB, gives you more flexibility.


----------



## jvillaveces

Shoggy said:


> Thanks for the photos but I am much more interested in the front side (without cables) where the electronic components are located
> The backside does not show anything relevant.
> 
> I still highly recommend that you connect further temperature sensors to the aquaero. You can use the sensors that came with the aquaero. If they also show the same stupid values it is pretty safe to say that the aquaero has a problem and not the sensors. If you own a multimeter you could also test the sensors. These sensors should show a resistance of 10kOhm at 25°C.


I haven't taken a multimeter to the sensors, but this morning I did a bunch of tests:
- I connected temperature sensors to other headers, and they seemed to worked ok. I then shuffled them around, connecting the new sensors to the headers where I was getting the stupid readings. I got normal readings from the new sensors in any header, and -22.71 from the old sensors in any header. It seems the problem is with the sensors, not the headers. Huh?
- I thought this was very odd, so I decided to try a NIB Aquaero 6 Pro I had in reserve for my next build. The sensors still read -22.71ºC in the brand new AQ6! How is this possible? What can I do to fix them? My rig is in a Singularity Computers Spectre case where cable management is absurdly challenging, so in order to replace the sensors I would have to drain the loop and completely disassemble the system.
- How did the sensors get "stuck" at the absurd negative value? How can I reset them?

The screencap is from the brand new AQ6.


----------



## ManniX-ITA

jvillaveces said:


> I haven't taken a multimeter to the sensors, but this morning I did a bunch of tests:
> - I connected temperature sensors to other headers, and they seemed to worked ok. I then shuffled them around, connecting the new sensors to the headers where I was getting the stupid readings. I got normal readings from the new sensors in any header, and -22.71 from the old sensors in any header. It seems the problem is with the sensors, not the headers. Huh?
> - I thought this was very odd, so I decided to try a NIB Aquaero 6 Pro I had in reserve for my next build. The sensors still read -22.71ºC in the brand new AQ6! How is this possible? What can I do to fix them? My rig is in a Singularity Computers Spectre case where cable management is absurdly challenging, so in order to replace the sensors I would have to drain the loop and completely disassemble the system.
> - How did the sensors get "stuck" at the absurd negative value? How can I reset them?
> 
> The screencap is from the brand new AQ6.


Can you give some more details about these sensors reporting -22.71? 
Are they water or on contact sensors?

Cause seems almost like they are not aqua sensors from what you are saying.
Only 10k resistance NTC sensors are going to work with the Aquaero AFAIK, maybe they are 1k or 100k.


----------



## Qualia

I want to turn on the computer with aquaero 6.

https://shop.aquacomputer.de/product_info.php?products_id=1636
https://shop.aquacomputer.de/product_info.php?products_id=2665
I bought the above products and set them up like pictures.




Is the setting correct?
When the computer starts, it works like a video.







Can't you turn on your computer with aquaero 6?


----------



## skupples

yeah, sounds like your first round of sensors are bunk. they're fragile. it's plausible you broke them during the arduous wiring.

and yep, draining & rebuilding happens. it's one of the reasons many people never move to hard tube 



kinda seems like that harness only exists to power up the aquaero when there isn't a molex source?


----------



## sultanofswing

So does anyone here have the power measurement setup in Aquasuite using 2 temp sensors and a flow meter?

I have mine setup but I get what appears to be a very high reading.

I use a water temp sensor in my reservoir and a water temp sensor in my GPU block "out"

With my flow at the 300lph range I see a Power consumption of 100+ watts.

The temp difference between the 2 is only .4c


----------



## war4peace

sultanofswing said:


> So does anyone here have the power measurement setup in Aquasuite using 2 temp sensors and a flow meter?
> I have mine setup but I get what appears to be a very high reading.


It's a normal reading, nothing to be worried about. Remember though that the value does not represent the _power consumption_ of the system or watercooled components, but the _heat dissipation_ capacity of the radiator.

For example, my liquid flow is around 5.2L/minute, and my radiator capacity is around 1.7 L, meaning that it takes 19 seconds for all the liquid to pass through the radiator. Also, in my case, ambient temperature right now is 19.2 degrees Celsius, Radiator IN temperature is 24.7-24.8 degrees Celsius, OUT temperature is 23.7-23.8 degrees Celsius, so Delta T is about 1 degree Celsius. At any rate, the heat dissipation shown is around 350W at idle, going all the way up to over 1000W during full consumption benchmarking.
Again, this is radiator heat dissipation capacity, not power consumption.


----------



## sultanofswing

war4peace said:


> It's a normal reading, nothing to be worried about. Remember though that the value does not represent the _power consumption_ of the system or watercooled components, but the _heat dissipation_ capacity of the radiator.
> 
> For example, my liquid flow is around 5.2L/minute, and my radiator capacity is around 1.7 L, meaning that it takes 19 seconds for all the liquid to pass through the radiator. Also, in my case, ambient temperature right now is 19.2 degrees Celsius, Radiator IN temperature is 24.7-24.8 degrees Celsius, OUT temperature is 23.7-23.8 degrees Celsius, so Delta T is about 1 degree Celsius. At any rate, the heat dissipation shown is around 350W at idle, going all the way up to over 1000W during full consumption benchmarking.
> Again, this is radiator heat dissipation capacity, not power consumption.


Yea I knew it wasn't a power "consumption" value but rather the amount of heat dissipated. So my numbers are pretty normal then, thanks.


----------



## broodro0ster

sultanofswing said:


> So does anyone here have the power measurement setup in Aquasuite using 2 temp sensors and a flow meter?
> 
> I have mine setup but I get what appears to be a very high reading.
> 
> I use a water temp sensor in my reservoir and a water temp sensor in my GPU block "out"
> 
> With my flow at the 300lph range I see a Power consumption of 100+ watts.
> 
> The temp difference between the 2 is only .4c


You need to have the temp sensor before and after the radiator. If you have multiple radiators, you can't put blocks between them or the measurements will be wrong. I think you only measure the heatdump of the GPU now and not the heatdump of the CPU. But I'd need to see picture of your loop to be sure.
The water temp sensors also need to be calibrate so they measure the same. If there is a 0.1°C measurement fault, the results are off by 20-25%. You can do that by putting the 2 sensor next to eachother and adjust the offset until they measure the same. Then put them back in the correct position.


----------



## ManniX-ITA

Hope @Shoggy or someone else can help on this.

I'd like to know if while connecting an Aquaero 5 LT as slave to the Aquaero 6 the 4 x Calitemp limitation is per Aquaero or in total.
Also in the manual it's specified you need an X4 to connect multiple Calitemp sensors, that's what I have now.
I wonder if I can replace the X4 with a Splitty9 set to Aquabus instead of fans and use it to connect the Calitemp sensors there or they specifically need the X4.


----------



## indyjones

*Display Ribbon Cable - Success!*

Please to report that the ribbon cable worked on the 6 XT 
Strangely it did not work on the 6 pro, but might not of connected correctly or something. For other's reference it's 18cm in length and the ribbon has 28awg wires. Apologies for the use of hot glue, but I was not going to heat shrink 48 wires !


----------



## Shawnb99

ManniX-ITA said:


> Hope @Shoggy or someone else can help on this.
> 
> I'd like to know if while connecting an Aquaero 5 LT as slave to the Aquaero 6 the 4 x Calitemp limitation is per Aquaero or in total.
> Also in the manual it's specified you need an X4 to connect multiple Calitemp sensors, that's what I have now.
> I wonder if I can replace the X4 with a Splitty9 set to Aquabus instead of fans and use it to connect the Calitemp sensors there or they specifically need the X4.


You're limited to 4 Calitemp in total. The x4 is the only way to connect them. Be aware using the x4 and having the XT model mounted in the bay will run into issues fitting as a couple of the connectors are right next to the mounts for the 5 1/2 bay. It's really a poor design and can damage the x4 and the 5 1/2 mount as well.

The Calitemps specifically need the X4.


----------



## Shawnb99

indyjones said:


> Please to report that the ribbon cable worked on the 6 XT
> Strangely it did not work on the 6 pro, but might not of connected correctly or something. For other's reference it's 18cm in length and the ribbon has 28awg wires. Apologies for the use of hot glue, but I was not going to heat shrink 48 wires !


Great job! Wonder what the issue is on the 6 pro. Glad to see you got it working as many have made a request for such a cable, am surprised they haven't come out with one themselves.


----------



## sultanofswing

indyjones said:


> Please to report that the ribbon cable worked on the 6 XT
> 
> Strangely it did not work on the 6 pro, but might not of connected correctly or something. For other's reference it's 18cm in length and the ribbon has 28awg wires. Apologies for the use of hot glue, but I was not going to heat shrink 48 wires !


Awesome, looks like my next mod! Thanks for taking the time to figure it out.

Sent from my GM1915 using Tapatalk


----------



## tistou77

tistou77 said:


> Hello
> 
> Do you know if kind of led strip is compatible with the 2pin PWM of the Aquaero 6 (consumption) ?
> I think this led strip is less than 12W (1A) but not sure
> 
> Thanks


Up

Thanks


----------



## skupples

indyjones said:


> Please to report that the ribbon cable worked on the 6 XT
> Strangely it did not work on the 6 pro, but might not of connected correctly or something. For other's reference it's 18cm in length and the ribbon has 28awg wires. Apologies for the use of hot glue, but I was not going to heat shrink 48 wires !


aWeSoMe!!!!!

don't apologize for hot glue. it's every decent modder's dirty little secret.


----------



## PM2843

I have been relatively happy with my aquaero 6 xt. 
What I have hooked up to it:
Real Time Clock module
2x D5 pumps (split with a Y PWM cable, powered off molex)
38x (32x 140mm 6x 120mm) radiator fans (split with 6x swiftech 8 way splitters)
2x 40mm SSD fans (split with a Y PWM cable, powered off molex)
1x 92mm HDD fan (For PWM and Tach, , powered off molex)
1x High Flow Sensor
6x Thermistors

A few thing bug me every once and a while. 
1. The fans spool up to max while the aquaero boots up before outputing a PWM. 
2. Aquasuite can't reliably read fan speeds above 10K RPM and definately not up to 25K RPM. 
3. There isn't a general input aquabus device that can read 0-5V analog signals.
4. Aquasuite's virtual temperature sensor can't take the average of more than 3 physical sensors and not from another virtual sensor.

1 and 2 are only issues because I'm foolishly using insanely fast/loud Delta fans to cool my drives.
3 is just the engineer in me wanting to collect as much information as possible. I would love to be collect pressure data from Honeywell PX2 or PX3 sensors between each component like I do for temperature.
4 is only an issue because I want the average temperature of the entire loop. 


A couple of questions that I have been wondering about.
1. Is it possible to overlay two or more data sources on the same figure...
1a: with the same scale along the left y-axis? This would display multiple temperatures or fan RPM's. I think I could do this with overlapping transparent figures and a fixed scale. but no idea how to do a legend.
1b: with the left y-axis for one source and the right for the second source? This would be for a pump's RPM and flow rate.
2. Is there any way to route the 5V standby wires on the Aquaero Power Connect (Part 53047) to the Aquaero 6 XT (either by rewiring the 5V and ground wires on the USB connector or on the molex connector)?


----------



## Barefooter

PM2843 said:


> I have been relatively happy with my aquaero 6 xt.
> What I have hooked up to it:
> Real Time Clock module
> 2x D5 pumps (split with a Y PWM cable, powered off molex)
> 38x (32x 140mm 6x 120mm) radiator fans (split with 6x swiftech 8 way splitters)
> 2x 40mm SSD fans (split with a Y PWM cable, powered off molex)
> 1x 92mm HDD fan (For PWM and Tach, , powered off molex)
> 1x High Flow Sensor
> 6x Thermistors
> 
> A few thing bug me every once and a while.
> *1. The fans spool up to max while the aquaero boots up before outputing a PWM. *
> 2. Aquasuite can't reliably read fan speeds above 10K RPM and definately not up to 25K RPM.
> 3. There isn't a general input aquabus device that can read 0-5V analog signals.
> 4. Aquasuite's virtual temperature sensor can't take the average of more than 3 physical sensors and not from another virtual sensor.
> 
> 1 and 2 are only issues because I'm foolishly using insanely fast/loud Delta fans to cool my drives.
> 3 is just the engineer in me wanting to collect as much information as possible. I would love to be collect pressure data from Honeywell PX2 or PX3 sensors between each component like I do for temperature.
> 4 is only an issue because I want the average temperature of the entire loop.
> 
> 
> A couple of questions that I have been wondering about.
> 1. Is it possible to overlay two or more data sources on the same figure...
> 1a: with the same scale along the left y-axis? This would display multiple temperatures or fan RPM's. I think I could do this with overlapping transparent figures and a fixed scale. but no idea how to do a legend.
> 1b: with the left y-axis for one source and the right for the second source? This would be for a pump's RPM and flow rate.
> 2. Is there any way to route the 5V standby wires on the Aquaero Power Connect (Part 53047) to the Aquaero 6 XT (either by rewiring the 5V and ground wires on the USB connector or on the molex connector)?


It sounds like you have the "Use Start Boost" checked off. Look under _Fans>Advanced setttings_ and if you uncheck that box the fans won't start on max speed.


----------



## PM2843

Barefooter said:


> It sounds like you have the "Use Start Boost" checked off. Look under _Fans>Advanced setttings_ and if you uncheck that box the fans won't start on max speed.


Just looked and the fans did not have "Use Start Boost" checked. I think the issue is that the Aquareo doesn't output a PWM signal while booting (the fan will go full speed at both 0 and 100% duty cycle).


----------



## ManniX-ITA

Shawnb99 said:


> You're limited to 4 Calitemp in total. The x4 is the only way to connect them. Be aware using the x4 and having the XT model mounted in the bay will run into issues fitting as a couple of the connectors are right next to the mounts for the 5 1/2 bay. It's really a poor design and can damage the x4 and the 5 1/2 mount as well.
> 
> The Calitemps specifically need the X4.


I have the RTC Clock mounted on the PCB, the X4 connected to it.
Sad it's limited to 4, I'll have to use normal sensors.

I'll have to connect the Splitty9 to the RTC and the X4 on the Splitty9 then, indeed not the best design.
But I'm happy if it just works


----------



## broodro0ster

PM2843 said:


> I have been relatively happy with my aquaero 6 xt.
> What I have hooked up to it:
> Real Time Clock module
> 2x D5 pumps (split with a Y PWM cable, powered off molex)
> 38x (32x 140mm 6x 120mm) radiator fans (split with 6x swiftech 8 way splitters)
> 2x 40mm SSD fans (split with a Y PWM cable, powered off molex)
> 1x 92mm HDD fan (For PWM and Tach, , powered off molex)
> 1x High Flow Sensor
> 6x Thermistors
> 
> A few thing bug me every once and a while.
> 1. The fans spool up to max while the aquaero boots up before outputing a PWM.
> 2. Aquasuite can't reliably read fan speeds above 10K RPM and definately not up to 25K RPM.
> 3. There isn't a general input aquabus device that can read 0-5V analog signals.
> 4. Aquasuite's virtual temperature sensor can't take the average of more than 3 physical sensors and not from another virtual sensor.
> 
> 1 and 2 are only issues because I'm foolishly using insanely fast/loud Delta fans to cool my drives.
> 3 is just the engineer in me wanting to collect as much information as possible. I would love to be collect pressure data from Honeywell PX2 or PX3 sensors between each component like I do for temperature.
> 4 is only an issue because I want the average temperature of the entire loop.
> 
> 
> A couple of questions that I have been wondering about.
> 1. Is it possible to overlay two or more data sources on the same figure...
> 1a: with the same scale along the left y-axis? This would display multiple temperatures or fan RPM's. I think I could do this with overlapping transparent figures and a fixed scale. but no idea how to do a legend.
> 1b: with the left y-axis for one source and the right for the second source? This would be for a pump's RPM and flow rate.
> 2. Is there any way to route the 5V standby wires on the Aquaero Power Connect (Part 53047) to the Aquaero 6 XT (either by rewiring the 5V and ground wires on the USB connector or on the molex connector)?


I'm using PWM fans and they don't spin at 100% while booting. Profile 1 is my default profile and it cools by delta T. 
If I boot when profile 1 was active for the last time, then it boots with the fans at 400rpm (lowest setting)
If I used profile 2 manually with my fans set to 1200 and I shut down my computer, my computer boots with the fans at 400rpm and when I reach the Windows login screen, they go to 1200rpm. It seems that either profile 1 is loaded on bootup or that my fans spin at 400rpm when there is no PWM signal present. But you could try to setup profile 1 and use that as a default if that isn't the case yet.

With the new playground in Aquasuite X, you can make virtual sensor that takes the average of 6 sensors. And then you can add this to your dashboard for monitoring. Or add it to a software sensor if you want to use it to control your loop.


----------



## ManniX-ITA

I've started my crazy build log thread :thumb:

https://www.overclock.net/forum/62-peltiers-tec/1746684-meertec-build-log.html


----------



## IT Diva

ManniX-ITA said:


> I've started my crazy build log thread :thumb:
> 
> https://www.overclock.net/forum/62-peltiers-tec/1746684-meertec-build-log.html





Looks like an interesting build . . . . .


Having gone down that sub-ambient road years ago, maybe I can be helpful . . . 




Darlene


----------



## chibi

IT Diva said:


> Looks like an interesting build . . . . .
> 
> Having gone down that sub-ambient road years ago, maybe I can be helpful . . .
> 
> Darlene



Hi Darlene, what are those silver qdc's? And do they screw in directly to the bulkhead fitting you used for the passthrough?

Thanks!


----------



## IT Diva

chibi said:


> Hi Darlene, what are those silver qdc's? And do they screw in directly to the bulkhead fitting you used for the passthrough?
> 
> Thanks!



The QD's are Koolance, #4's if I recall correctly.


They do screw into the Bitspower pass-thru's, but check the Tropical Frost build link to see how I modded the rear of the case so they are strong enough to take the strain.


----------



## skupples

warning #4s are yuge, and some models require 3/8 to 1/4 adapter disk due to the fact they're 3/8 base.


----------



## PM2843

broodro0ster said:


> I'm using PWM fans and they don't spin at 100% while booting. Profile 1 is my default profile and it cools by delta T.
> If I boot when profile 1 was active for the last time, then it boots with the fans at 400rpm (lowest setting)
> If I used profile 2 manually with my fans set to 1200 and I shut down my computer, my computer boots with the fans at 400rpm and when I reach the Windows login screen, they go to 1200rpm. It seems that either profile 1 is loaded on bootup or that my fans spin at 400rpm when there is no PWM signal present. But you could try to setup profile 1 and use that as a default if that isn't the case yet.
> 
> With the new playground in Aquasuite X, you can make virtual sensor that takes the average of 6 sensors. And then you can add this to your dashboard for monitoring. Or add it to a software sensor if you want to use it to control your loop.


I'll have to hook up a oscilloscope to a PWM pin and see what it look like when it boots up to be sure, but I really think it is because the Aquaero doesn't output any PWM signal while booting. The fan is still getting 12V through molex so it will spool to full speed. It has nothing to do with windows as the MB still hasn't even finished memory checking by the time the Aquaero finishes booting and the fans go back to the last used profile speed. 

I've messed around with the virtual sensor logic and math in the playground. Annoyingly, the average function only takes 2 inputs. To get the average of 6 sensors, the values have to be summed up and divided by the number of sensors. This takes 4 logic steps between the input and the out rather than just 1.


----------



## ManniX-ITA

IT Diva said:


> Looks like an interesting build . . . . .
> 
> 
> Having gone down that sub-ambient road years ago, maybe I can be helpful . . .
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Darlene


I really hope you can helpful, your builds are a mix of a thermonuclear power plant and art paintings...
Mine is going to look more like a sophisticated trash can


----------



## Bartdude

IT Diva said:


> Looks like an interesting build . . . . .
> 
> 
> Having gone down that sub-ambient road years ago, maybe I can be helpful . . .
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Darlene


Are they "what we call chillers" under the bench? They look similar to the ones we use to cool the ICP & ICP MS (Inductively Coupled Plasma & Inductively Coupled Plasma Mass Spectrometry) Just an interesting idea crossed my mind


----------



## skupples

https://www.performance-pcs.com/wat...tt-cooling-capacity-waterchiller-hc-500a.html


----------



## criskoe

So I just removed my corsair commander pro and installed a aquaero 6 LT. Hoping that maybe one of you out there might be able to answer what might be a silly question. But is there a way to control the fans by RPM while in PWM mode? Not by %. 

Hear me out. With the commander pro I could lets say set the fans to run at 1200 RPM at a certain temp. And ALL the fans would run at 1200 RPM. The commander pro would make adjustments via pwm to make sure all the fans stayed at 1200 rpm as certain fans seem to require a bit more signal to due to radiator or case restriction. I cant seem to find this option on the aquaero. Right now on the aquaero controlling the fans via PWM % slider. If i set all fans to 50%, Some fans are 1200rpm and some are 1136rpm and some are 1165rpm. This is strictly cause of restriction happening from the radiators or case.

I feel like rpm control is much easier to keep things matched and much easier to dial in exactly what i want speed wise. Am i missing something obvious here? Is there a setting or dialog im overlooking? Or on the aquaero in pwm mode is this not a option? I see you can do speed control but that seems to use voltage which i dont want to do on PWM mag lev fans. 

Hope this explains what im asking clearly. lol


----------



## skupples

hmm... that's an interesting feature.

you have multiple fans per channel, right? how're you reading their individual RPM?

RPM read out bounce is caused by the hub you're using, if this is the issue you're having. this can be fixed by getting a better hub/severing the RPM trace, after the 1st fan header.


----------



## war4peace

criskoe said:


> So I just removed my corsair commander pro and installed a aquaero 6 LT. Hoping that maybe one of you out there might be able to answer what might be a silly question. But is there a way to control the fans by RPM while in PWM mode? Not by %.
> 
> Hear me out. With the commander pro I could lets say set the fans to run at 1200 RPM at a certain temp. And ALL the fans would run at 1200 RPM. The commander pro would make adjustments via pwm to make sure all the fans stayed at 1200 rpm as certain fans seem to require a bit more signal to due to radiator or case restriction. I cant seem to find this option on the aquaero. Right now on the aquaero controlling the fans via PWM % slider. If i set all fans to 50%, Some fans are 1200rpm and some are 1136rpm and some are 1165rpm. This is strictly cause of restriction happening from the radiators or case.
> 
> I feel like rpm control is much easier to keep things matched and much easier to dial in exactly what i want speed wise. Am i missing something obvious here? Is there a setting or dialog im overlooking? Or on the aquaero in pwm mode is this not a option? I see you can do speed control but that seems to use voltage which i dont want to do on PWM mag lev fans.
> 
> Hope this explains what im asking clearly. lol


You don't need RPM control, you need to set up a Set Point Controller based on liquid temperature. and not to worry about 30-40 RPM difference between fans, it really does not matter.


----------



## criskoe

skupples said:


> hmm... that's an interesting feature.
> 
> you have multiple fans per channel, right? how're you reading their individual RPM?
> 
> RPM read out bounce is caused by the hub you're using, if this is the issue you're having. this can be fixed by getting a better hub/severing the RPM trace, after the 1st fan header.


Yeah no thats not what I was talking about. The commander pro is able to maintain rpm via PWM. Im not talking about RPM fluctuation. Im talking about if you were to take one fan in open air and run it at 50% PWM you would get X RPM speed. And if you were to run the same fan again at 50% PWM but this time on a radiator you would get a lower RPM then X by a little bit. 25-70 RPM lower. This is due to the extra resistance the radiator adds. So if i set all my fans with the aquaero to 50%. The open air fans are spinning slightly faster (30-70 rpm) then the ones on radiators. Corsair PWM RPM control counters that.. I could set all my fans to 1200 rpm and the unit would make sure all fans were at 1200 rpm. It adjusts the signal higher automatically on the fans with more restriction so it makes and maintains 1200 rpm. 

I get that I can just manually adjust the particular bank of fans with a slightly higher %. Like on open air fans 50% and radiator fans 55% so they match 1200 RPM. I was just wondering if the aquaero also had the PWM rpm feature buried somewhere in the settings like corsair has. Doesn't sound like it does. Not the end of the world. 





war4peace said:


> You don't need RPM control, you need to set up a Set Point Controller based on liquid temperature. and not to worry about 30-40 RPM difference between fans, it really does not matter.


Yeah im still really new to this aquaero. Lots of features and things to adjust and learn still. As for the set point controller. thats hopefully the goal. To have it setup like you said. I havent messed around with it much yet but my initial try for some reason is i can hear very slight oscillating fan noise. like its ramps up and down back n forth ever so slightly every half a second that it changes the sound signature and is extremely annoying. Extremely annoying. Any idea why i might be getting that. No way people are ok with this. LOL. Its like a form or torture.


----------



## ManniX-ITA

criskoe said:


> Yeah no thats not what I was talking about. The commander pro is able to maintain rpm via PWM. Im not talking about RPM fluctuation. Im talking about if you were to take one fan in open air and run it at 50% PWM you would get X RPM speed. And if you were to run the same fan again at 50% PWM but this time on a radiator you would get a lower RPM then X by a little bit. 25-70 RPM lower. This is due to the extra resistance the radiator adds. So if i set all my fans with the aquaero to 50%. The open air fans are spinning slightly faster (30-70 rpm) then the ones on radiators. Corsair PWM RPM control counters that.. I could set all my fans to 1200 rpm and the unit would make sure all fans were at 1200 rpm. It adjusts the signal higher automatically on the fans with more restriction so it makes and maintains 1200 rpm.
> 
> I get that I can just manually adjust the particular bank of fans with a slightly higher %. Like on open air fans 50% and radiator fans 55% so they match 1200 RPM. I was just wondering if the aquaero also had the PWM rpm feature buried somewhere in the settings like corsair has. Doesn't sound like it does. Not the end of the world.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yeah im still really new to this aquaero. Lots of features and things to adjust and learn still. As for the set point controller. thats hopefully the goal. To have it setup like you said. I havent messed around with it much yet but my initial try for some reason is i can hear very slight oscillating fan noise. like its ramps up and down back n forth ever so slightly every half a second that it changes the sound signature and is extremely annoying. Extremely annoying. Any idea why i might be getting that. No way people are ok with this. LOL. Its like a form or torture.


It does have speed control mode but not for PWM.
In theory if you match the different fan rpms with min and max power settings they are mapped to 0% to 100%.
If you define a control mode then when set at a specific value they'll run at the same speed.

If you hear The annoying fan speed oscillation is the curve controller; have to say it's not really good. It should have an hysteresis configurable value.
You can compensate by working on the curve or using a higher delta between the min and max temperature.

As suggested, use the set point controller and mostly probably the issue is gone.


----------



## broodro0ster

criskoe said:


> Yeah no thats not what I was talking about. The commander pro is able to maintain rpm via PWM. Im not talking about RPM fluctuation. Im talking about if you were to take one fan in open air and run it at 50% PWM you would get X RPM speed. And if you were to run the same fan again at 50% PWM but this time on a radiator you would get a lower RPM then X by a little bit. 25-70 RPM lower. This is due to the extra resistance the radiator adds. So if i set all my fans with the aquaero to 50%. The open air fans are spinning slightly faster (30-70 rpm) then the ones on radiators. Corsair PWM RPM control counters that.. I could set all my fans to 1200 rpm and the unit would make sure all fans were at 1200 rpm. It adjusts the signal higher automatically on the fans with more restriction so it makes and maintains 1200 rpm.
> 
> I get that I can just manually adjust the particular bank of fans with a slightly higher %. Like on open air fans 50% and radiator fans 55% so they match 1200 RPM. I was just wondering if the aquaero also had the PWM rpm feature buried somewhere in the settings like corsair has. Doesn't sound like it does. Not the end of the world.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yeah im still really new to this aquaero. Lots of features and things to adjust and learn still. As for the set point controller. thats hopefully the goal. To have it setup like you said. I havent messed around with it much yet but my initial try for some reason is i can hear very slight oscillating fan noise. like its ramps up and down back n forth ever so slightly every half a second that it changes the sound signature and is extremely annoying. Extremely annoying. Any idea why i might be getting that. No way people are ok with this. LOL. Its like a form or torture.


Probably because you're using a curve controller. When the watertemp changes (even 0,05°C), the fan speed changes as well. The preset set point controller use hysteresis and don't do this. I would go with the normal profile. The fast and faster profiles are already too annoying imo.


----------



## criskoe

ManniX-ITA said:


> It does have speed control mode but not for PWM.
> In theory if you match the different fan rpms with min and max power settings they are mapped to 0% to 100%.
> If you define a control mode then when set at a specific value they'll run at the same speed.
> 
> If you hear The annoying fan speed oscillation is the curve controller; have to say it's not really good. It should have an hysteresis configurable value.
> You can compensate by working on the curve or using a higher delta between the min and max temperature.
> 
> As suggested, use the set point controller and mostly probably the issue is gone.





broodro0ster said:


> Probably because you're using a curve controller. When the watertemp changes (even 0,05°C), the fan speed changes as well. The preset set point controller use hysteresis and don't do this. I would go with the normal profile. The fast and faster profiles are already too annoying imo.


Yeah thats what I thought. I noticed the speed control was doing it via voltage. Which is no good for my mag lev fans. Ive set the min/max with the corresponding % for each bank so they match.

As for hysteresis, Is there somewhere i can read about these particular settings? All this being new to me im not sure what that even means lol. 

And the profiles for set point controller. Im assuming fastest vs normal vs slower just means the respond time to fan ramps or no? is there somewhere that has more detail read what this is? Also I noticed there is a user defined setting. What is factor P, Factor I, factor D, Hysteresis and reset time do? I just tryed changing them to random values but Im not fully sure i understand what they are changing.


----------



## broodro0ster

criskoe said:


> Yeah thats what I thought. I noticed the speed control was doing it via voltage. Which is no good for my mag lev fans. Ive set the min/max with the corresponding % for each bank so they match.
> 
> As for hysteresis, Is there somewhere i can read about these particular settings? All this being new to me im not sure what that even means lol.
> 
> And the profiles for set point controller. Im assuming fastest vs normal vs slower just means the respond time to fan ramps or no? is there somewhere that has more detail read what this is? Also I noticed there is a user defined setting. What is factor P, Factor I, factor D, Hysteresis and reset time do? I just tryed changing them to random values but Im not fully sure i understand what they are changing.


Hmmm, if they are voltage controlled, then I think you didn't mark that your fans are PWM controller under the Fans tab.

As for the set point controller: I also don't know all those parameters exactly, I wish they were explained somewhere so we can play with it. But I tried the stock profiles and I like normal the best. 
Hysteresis makes the fans lagging a bit behind to the actual temp you're measuring, so it's not jumping up and down constantly when there is a small dip or peak.


----------



## ManniX-ITA

criskoe said:


> Yeah thats what I thought. I noticed the speed control was doing it via voltage. Which is no good for my mag lev fans. Ive set the min/max with the corresponding % for each bank so they match.
> 
> As for hysteresis, Is there somewhere i can read about these particular settings? All this being new to me im not sure what that even means lol.
> 
> And the profiles for set point controller. Im assuming fastest vs normal vs slower just means the respond time to fan ramps or no? is there somewhere that has more detail read what this is? Also I noticed there is a user defined setting. What is factor P, Factor I, factor D, Hysteresis and reset time do? I just tryed changing them to random values but Im not fully sure i understand what they are changing.


You can find a quick explanation here about PID control and Hysteresis:

https://na.industrial.panasonic.com/blog/temperature-controllers-using-hysteresis

It's a quite complex matter if you don't know the background.

To keep it easy instead of a fixed value to control the output with the hysteresis you define a range.

Without it, the decision is taken over the sampling rate continuously eg. 10c = 800 rpm, 11c = 850 rpm, 12c = 900 rpm, 9c = 750 rpm, 7c = 650 rpm, etc
With the hysteresis range set at 2c this would be 10c = 800 rpm, 11c = 800 rpm, 12c = 800 rpm, 9c = 800 rpm, 7c = 650 rpm, etc

The output control decision is only changed once the temperature point goes outside the range of the last decision.

It's a simplification of course and usually the algorithms are more sophisticated and consider multiple input factors.


----------



## war4peace

criskoe said:


> Yeah im still really new to this aquaero. Lots of features and things to adjust and learn still. As for the set point controller. thats hopefully the goal. To have it setup like you said. I havent messed around with it much yet but my initial try for some reason is i can hear very slight oscillating fan noise. like its ramps up and down back n forth ever so slightly every half a second that it changes the sound signature and is extremely annoying. Extremely annoying. Any idea why i might be getting that. No way people are ok with this. LOL. Its like a form or torture.


First off you need to have temperature input coming off liquid temperature, not GOU or CPU temperature because those will jump up or down, making the set point controller useless. So, one temperature sensor measuring the liquid temperature, set point controller to Normal (ignore custom, those are really advanced settings that bring benefits in niche situations), target temperature to something that's not too low, not too high.










When target temperature is reached, the fans will sloooowly ramp up based on temperaturew difference and for how long it has been exceeded. It's really a set-and-forget thing, in my example below I used voltage because my fans (230mm BitFenix White) are 3-pin. But I have been using PWM based fans in other builds (Noctua 200mm PWM) and they work just as well (if not better), you will need to set fan control speed to PWM in their own tab.


----------



## GTXJackBauer

criskoe said:


> All this being new to me im not sure what that even means.


Have a look at this great guide to help you get started. Take your time and enjoy because there's lots of things this controller can do.


----------



## criskoe

war4peace said:


> First off you need to have temperature input coming off liquid temperature, not GOU or CPU temperature because those will jump up or down, making the set point controller useless. So, one temperature sensor measuring the liquid temperature, set point controller to Normal (ignore custom, those are really advanced settings that bring benefits in niche situations), target temperature to something that's not too low, not too high.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When target temperature is reached, the fans will sloooowly ramp up based on temperaturew difference and for how long it has been exceeded. It's really a set-and-forget thing, in my example below I used voltage because my fans (230mm BitFenix White) are 3-pin. But I have been using PWM based fans in other builds (Noctua 200mm PWM) and they work just as well (if not better), you will need to set fan control speed to PWM in their own tab.





GTXJackBauer said:


> Have a look at this great guide to help you get started. Take your time and enjoy because there's lots of things this controller can do.


Yeah for sure. I’m not using cpu or gpu temp. I’ve got a bunch of temps sensors installed including a coolant one. First thing I did was set up a coolant-ambient delta virtual sensor. But I think the issue I’m having with that and set point is that with my window open by the computer it causes the ambient sensor to fluctuate up and down fast in small amounts with the breeze coming in which in turn is causing the delta value to fluctuate which in turn is causing my fans to oscillate. I’ll have to give just straight coolant temp a try. I did really like the idea of using the delta tho but obviously is gunna be a issue when my window is open. 

Yeah I read through that guide. Lots of info. Got me started for sure. One thing i noticed in the guide is he sets min and maximum rpms under the advanced fan settings with pwm. And I’ve noticed that when the fans are set to pwm. This setting does nothing under pwm. Fans will still drop below and go above these values. The minimum power slider above is what seems to limit min rpm under Pwm.


----------



## war4peace

criskoe said:


> First thing I did was set up a coolant-ambient delta virtual sensor. But I think the issue I’m having with that and set point is that with my window open by the computer it causes the ambient sensor to fluctuate up and down fast in small amounts with the breeze coming in which in turn is causing the delta value to fluctuate which in turn is causing my fans to oscillate. I’ll have to give just straight coolant temp a try.


That's one reason to not use Delta. There is also the variation between seasons.
In my example above, I have a set point controller looking only at liquid temperature. My goal is for that temperature to never exceed 40 degrees Celsius, regardless of ambient temperature, windows being open or closed, etc. Of course, depending on radiator size and thickness, you may want to set that goal to 45 or 50 degrees Celsius, in my case my radiator is completely overkill so that temperature is basically never reached, the set point controller is for those rare extreme cases where it's very hot and I am gaming very hard.

The Set Point Controller starts working against you if you set the target limit too low, e.g. if your liquid temperature reaches 37 degrees Celsius when PC is idle and you set the target to 40 degrees Celsius, it would be better to increase the fan minimum speed accordingly. Aquaero controller settings have to be selected based on your cooling system specifically.


----------



## skupples

my fans do that without being on a radiator. it's the silicon lottery of fans, n you see it when you have 40}+ running at once. 

cool corsair figured out a way to sync it. definitely something the ever increasing OCD newcomer would fixate on.


----------



## criskoe

war4peace said:


> That's one reason to not use Delta. There is also the variation between seasons.
> In my example above, I have a set point controller looking only at liquid temperature. My goal is for that temperature to never exceed 40 degrees Celsius, regardless of ambient temperature, windows being open or closed, etc. Of course, depending on radiator size and thickness, you may want to set that goal to 45 or 50 degrees Celsius, in my case my radiator is completely overkill so that temperature is basically never reached, the set point controller is for those rare extreme cases where it's very hot and I am gaming very hard.
> 
> The Set Point Controller starts working against you if you set the target limit too low, e.g. if your liquid temperature reaches 37 degrees Celsius when PC is idle and you set the target to 40 degrees Celsius, it would be better to increase the fan minimum speed accordingly. Aquaero controller settings have to be selected based on your cooling system specifically.


Yeah I defiantly have to play around with all these settings to find what works best. Nice to have all these options for sure. I think my favourite thing so far is the autonomous functioning of it with out needing to run a program in the back ground.


----------



## criskoe

skupples said:


> my fans do that without being on a radiator. it's the silicon lottery of fans, n you see it when you have 40}+ running at once.
> 
> cool corsair figured out a way to sync it. definitely something the ever increasing OCD newcomer would fixate on.


Meh. I wouldn’t call it OCD fixation but I could see how it may appeal in that aspect. More over i think its easier, more efficient and quicker to just enter a target numerical value instead of having to play with sliders to find the desired value. In the big scheme of things it’s all really the same I guess. But I personally welcome small quality of life changes like this. Its small details that may not seem like much but once you get used to them, going back seems clunky and far less intuitive.


----------



## broodro0ster

criskoe said:


> Yeah for sure. I’m not using cpu or gpu temp. I’ve got a bunch of temps sensors installed including a coolant one. First thing I did was set up a coolant-ambient delta virtual sensor. But I think the issue I’m having with that and set point is that with my window open by the computer it causes the ambient sensor to fluctuate up and down fast in small amounts with the breeze coming in which in turn is causing the delta value to fluctuate which in turn is causing my fans to oscillate. I’ll have to give just straight coolant temp a try. I did really like the idea of using the delta tho but obviously is gunna be a issue when my window is open.
> 
> Yeah I read through that guide. Lots of info. Got me started for sure. One thing i noticed in the guide is he sets min and maximum rpms under the advanced fan settings with pwm. And I’ve noticed that when the fans are set to pwm. This setting does nothing under pwm. Fans will still drop below and go above these values. The minimum power slider above is what seems to limit min rpm under Pwm.


I cool by delta T and with the window open, my temp jumps slightly more but with the normal profile for the set point controller it's not an issue and it doesn't overreact.
But if that a big issue you can also make a second profile with fixed fan speeds and bind it to a shortcut. Then you can switch profiles ingame by pressing a shortcut. I'm using ctrl+alt+KP_number to switch profiles.



war4peace said:


> That's one reason to not use Delta. There is also the variation between seasons.
> In my example above, I have a set point controller looking only at liquid temperature. My goal is for that temperature to never exceed 40 degrees Celsius, regardless of ambient temperature, windows being open or closed, etc. Of course, depending on radiator size and thickness, you may want to set that goal to 45 or 50 degrees Celsius, in my case my radiator is completely overkill so that temperature is basically never reached, the set point controller is for those rare extreme cases where it's very hot and I am gaming very hard.
> 
> The Set Point Controller starts working against you if you set the target limit too low, e.g. if your liquid temperature reaches 37 degrees Celsius when PC is idle and you set the target to 40 degrees Celsius, it would be better to increase the fan minimum speed accordingly. Aquaero controller settings have to be selected based on your cooling system specifically.


I guess it depends on what you want. I always want the lowest possible temps without going over 1200rpm. So I set a set point controller for a delta of 8.5°C. 
No matter if it's cool or hot in my room, my fans always spin at around 1200rpm in any AA game. My watertemp is around 29-34°C depending om ambient (22-27°C ambient temps).

If I cool by watertemp, then my fans need to spin 200rpm faster to gain 1°C. So when my room heats up by 3°C, my fans spin 600rpm faster and anything faster than 1300rpm is too loud for me. I could raise my set point controller for the watertemp to 35°C so my fans spin never over 1200rpm. But them I'm never seeing those sub 40°C core temps on my GPU to keep max boost clocks.

So I tried both and I personally like cooling by delta T better because then I'm seeing lower temps when it's cool in my room


----------



## war4peace

broodro0ster said:


> I guess it depends on what you want. I always want the lowest possible temps without going over 1200rpm. So I set a set point controller for a delta of 8.5°C.
> No matter if it's cool or hot in my room, my fans always spin at around 1200rpm in any AA game. My watertemp is around 29-34°C depending om ambient (22-27°C ambient temps).
> 
> If I cool by watertemp, then my fans need to spin 200rpm faster to gain 1°C. So when my room heats up by 3°C, my fans spin 600rpm faster and anything faster than 1300rpm is too loud for me. I could raise my set point controller for the watertemp to 35°C so my fans spin never over 1200rpm. But them I'm never seeing those sub 40°C core temps on my GPU to keep max boost clocks.
> 
> So I tried both and I personally like cooling by delta T better because then I'm seeing lower temps when it's cool in my room


Question is: does your system _need_ those lower temperatures? Or rather: do you _need_ fans at 1200 RPM? To me, anything over 600-700 RPM is too noisy to use, so I'd rather have up to 40 degrees liquid temperature, than have fans hissing all the time next to me.
In your example above, if you configure the set point controller at 40 degrees Celsius, you will see fans spinning at lower speeds all the time while having no detrimental effect on your components.
In my case, the fans always spin at 400 RPM, and during very hot summer days, no AC and heavy gaming, they would reach 600 RPM maximum while keeping the liquid temperature below 40 degrees Celsius. This means quiet PC regardless of what I do with it or when I do it. During winter, the liquid temperature goes all the way to 22 degrees Celsius (fans at 400 RPM) and that temperature is the RAD IN sensor (so highest in the loop). But, as you said, depends on what you want, and also depends on radiator size. My delta T between liquid and ambient is 4-5 degrees Celsius during idle, fans at 400 RPM. That's radiator size having a big influence. 
In the end it's a matter of personal choice, one method is not better than the other, they just need to be understood and used based on hardware configuration and personal preference. I used delta T, fan curves and set point controllers and determined the last one to satisfy me best.


----------



## InfoSeeker

criskoe said:


> Spoiler
> 
> 
> 
> Yeah for sure. I’m not using cpu or gpu temp. I’ve got a bunch of temps sensors installed including a coolant one.
> 
> 
> First thing I did was set up a coolant-ambient delta virtual sensor. But I think the issue I’m having with that and set point is that with my window open by the computer it causes the ambient sensor to fluctuate up and down fast in small amounts with the breeze coming in which in turn is causing the delta value to fluctuate which in turn is causing my fans to oscillate.
> 
> 
> Spoiler
> 
> 
> 
> I’ll have to give just straight coolant temp a try. I did really like the idea of using the delta tho but obviously is gunna be a issue when my window is open.
> 
> Yeah I read through that guide. Lots of info. Got me started for sure. One thing i noticed in the guide is he sets min and maximum rpms under the advanced fan settings with pwm. And I’ve noticed that when the fans are set to pwm. This setting does nothing under pwm. Fans will still drop below and go above these values. The minimum power slider above is what seems to limit min rpm under Pwm.



If you wanted a less fluctuating ambient reading, you might try an INLINE SENSOR.
There is a bit more mass there, and the sensor itself would be somewhat insulated from the instant changes. There will be a slight lag between ambient and sensor, but not too significant.

I have an external radiator with two of these strapped to the stand (left & right), and make an average in a virtual filter. I do not have open windows by the radiator, but I get reliable, steady ambient readings.


----------



## sakete

InfoSeeker said:


> If you wanted a less fluctuating ambient reading, you might try an INLINE SENSOR.
> 
> There is a bit more mass there, and the sensor itself would be somewhat insulated from the instant changes. There will be a slight lag between ambient and sensor, but not too significant.
> 
> 
> 
> I have an external radiator with two of these strapped to the stand (left & right), and make an average in a virtual filter. I do not have open windows by the radiator, but I get reliable, steady ambient readings.


Just know those inline sensors are wildly inaccurate. I have two of them and had to calibrate them once I added a calitemp sensor.


----------



## criskoe

InfoSeeker said:


> If you wanted a less fluctuating ambient reading, you might try an INLINE SENSOR.
> There is a bit more mass there, and the sensor itself would be somewhat insulated from the instant changes. There will be a slight lag between ambient and sensor, but not too significant.
> 
> I have an external radiator with two of these strapped to the stand (left & right), and make an average in a virtual filter. I do not have open windows by the radiator, but I get reliable, steady ambient readings.


The sensor you linked there, that’s a ambient sensor?? Isn’t that a coolant sensor? I’m confused now. My coolant temp doesn’t wildly fluctuate. My ambient does with the temp probe placed just outside the case at the intake. It’s fluctuating well cause the air is fluctuating around the case due to breezes coming through the window causing drafts by the pc.


----------



## criskoe

sakete said:


> Just know those inline sensors are wildly inaccurate. I have two of them and had to calibrate them once I added a calitemp sensor.


Sorry if this is a stupid question. But what makes the calitemp sensor better and more accurate? When you say wildly inaccurate, how much were they off?


----------



## sakete

criskoe said:


> Sorry if this is a stupid question. But what makes the calitemp sensor better and more accurate?


That's a better question for @Shoggy, but I think it's a pre-calibrated digital sensor, whereas the regular inline is essentially an ambient temp sensor strapped to a piece of metal with a G1/4 thread.


----------



## criskoe

sakete said:


> That's a better question for @Shoggy, but I think it's a pre-calibrated digital sensor, whereas the regular inline is essentially an ambient temp sensor strapped to a piece of metal with a G1/4 thread.


Yeah I see it uses a aquabus connection so there must be more happening under the hood. It would be neat to hear what that is. Item page says accurate within 0.2C in temp ranges of -5C to 50C.

So if I understand what your saying correctly then most all coolant temp sensors would be inaccurate. Like for instance a bitspower stop Plug sensor. Im assuming as well that this is just a ambient temp sensor shoved in a piece of metal that sticks into the coolant? My biggest question now is how inaccurate are these standard 2 pin temps sensors?


----------



## sakete

criskoe said:


> Yeah I see it uses a aquabus connection so there must be more happening under the hood. It would be neat to hear what that is. Item page says accurate within 0.2C in temp ranges of -5C to 50C.
> 
> 
> 
> So if I understand what your saying correctly then most all coolant temp sensors would be inaccurate. Like for instance a bitspower stop Plug sensor. Im assuming as well that this is just a ambient temp sensor shoved in a piece of metal that sticks into the coolant? My biggest question now is how inaccurate are these standard 2 pin temps sensors?


Well, they're probably accurate enough for air. But for water, I had to raise one by 6C, and the other by 10C to get them to match the calitemp. And well they're in other spots of my loop so might not even be right, but they'll serve as backup sensors in case the calitemp fails.


----------



## criskoe

sakete said:


> Well, they're probably accurate enough for air. But for water, I had to raise one by 6C, and the other by 10C to get them to match the calitemp. And well they're in other spots of my loop so might not even be right, but they'll serve as backup sensors in case the calitemp fails.


Oh wow that much of a difference hey. On my next order somewhere I might pick a cali up and see how much difference it reports.


----------



## InfoSeeker

criskoe said:


> The sensor you linked there, that’s a ambient sensor?? Isn’t that a coolant sensor? I’m confused now. My coolant temp doesn’t wildly fluctuate. My ambient does with the temp probe placed just outside the case at the intake. It’s fluctuating well cause the air is fluctuating around the case due to breezes coming through the window causing drafts by the pc.



Yes, the sensor I linked is designed for installation in a coolant circuit, but it is the SAME SENSOR you use as your ambient sensor, except it has the housing. It is that housing that keeps spurious wind changes from affecting its readings... it stabilizes the immediate environment at the sensor.

As to their accuracy, I do not think you can come to the conclusion they are yielding incorrect readings if they are placed away from your control sensor.

I have two Calitemps on my current external radiator, but I will not buy them again. They are more costly and require an AQUABUS X4 and aquaero. Plus the aquabus X4 doesn't fit on the aquaero if you have more than 2 calitemps, it has to be mounted elsewhere.


----------



## Shawnb99

InfoSeeker said:


> Plus the aquabus X4 doesn't fit on the aquaero if you have more than 2 calitemps, it has to be mounted elsewhere.


Only if you're using the front bay. If not it works fine with 4 of them


----------



## skupples

definitely doesn't stand for california.


----------



## war4peace

InfoSeeker said:


> If you wanted a less fluctuating ambient reading, you might try an INLINE SENSOR.
> There is a bit more mass there, and the sensor itself would be somewhat insulated from the instant changes. There will be a slight lag between ambient and sensor, but not too significant.
> 
> I have an external radiator with two of these strapped to the stand (left & right), and make an average in a virtual filter. I do not have open windows by the radiator, but I get reliable, steady ambient readings.


That's actually a pretty good idea. I am using a 2-pin flat sensor placed directly in front of the radiator intake fans, because I am more interested in the temperature of the air entering the radiator, which I consider "ambient" for the purpose of checking what kind of air does my radiator breathe.


----------



## GTXJackBauer

war4peace said:


> That's actually a pretty good idea. I am using a 2-pin flat sensor placed directly in front of the radiator intake fans, because I am more interested in the temperature of the air entering the radiator, which I consider "ambient" for the purpose of checking what kind of air does my radiator breathe.


+1 

I've been doing the same. Have two air temp sensors for my top 360mm rad and a single air temp for the front with just intake fans. The bottom chamber of the case has two rads on each side but decided not to put air temp sensors there as I feel I already have enough sensors to go around. 

The top rad also has two calitemp sensors on the INs and OUTs.


----------



## PM2843

Has anyone stripped the insulation off of a CaliTemp sensors to see what chip and sensor is used? I suspect it is the same NTD 10kΩ thermistor as the 2-pin inline and plug sensors, but I would be interested to know if it is a single IC to read temperature and transmit data or is it a combination of a MAX6682 or similar chip and a chip specific to aquabus communication.


----------



## skupples

Shawn might be able to tell you. he's broken plenty.


----------



## farpetrad

Can someone tell me how to properly connect the high flow usb sensor? I have tried multiple usb 2 headers and everytime I try to install aquasuite it says there is nothing detected.


[EDIT]
Tried a usb hub and its working now not sure why it didn't like the headers directly but whatever.


----------



## GTXJackBauer

farpetrad said:


> Can someone tell me how to properly connect the high flow usb sensor? I have tried multiple usb 2 headers and everytime I try to install aquasuite it says there is nothing detected.
> 
> 
> [EDIT]
> Tried a usb hub and its working now not sure why it didn't like the headers directly but whatever.


The connections might have been incorrectly connected which is so easily done when it comes to USB. 

Glad to hear you got it working overall.


----------



## ManniX-ITA

Turns out the Calitemp sensors doesn't strictly need an X4.
I have 3 of them on the X4 and the 4th connected to a Splitty9 configured as aquabus hub.
It's working just fine.


----------



## Shawnb99

ManniX-ITA said:


> Turns out the Calitemp sensors doesn't strictly need an X4.
> I have 3 of them on the X4 and the 4th connected to a Splitty9 configured as aquabus hub.
> It's working just fine.



Hmmmm interesting. Care to see how many you can connect to the Splitty9 and still work?

Why did you connect them this way?


----------



## ManniX-ITA

Shawnb99 said:


> Hmmmm interesting. Care to see how many you can connect to the Splitty9 and still work?
> 
> Why did you connect them this way?


I had 3 before, now I have 4 of them.

Will check, I took the Splitty9 to get rid of the X4; now it's on the Aquaero and I had 3 Calitemps and the RTC Clock connected on the 4 ports.
I'll move the RTC Clock on the Aquaero and there will connect the Splitty9.
All the Calitemp and other Aquabus devices connetecd on the Splitty9, more clean.


----------



## Shawnb99

ManniX-ITA said:


> I had 3 before, now I have 4 of them.
> 
> Will check, I took the Splitty9 to get rid of the X4; now it's on the Aquaero and I had 3 Calitemps and the RTC Clock connected on the 4 ports.
> I'll move the RTC Clock on the Aquaero and there will connect the Splitty9.
> All the Calitemp and other Aquabus devices connetecd on the Splitty9, more clean.


Cool. I'm interested in how many Calitemp can you run off of the Splitty9 with and without the X4 connected. That's good to know you can just use a Splitty9 instead of the X4. I'll have to try that next tear down


----------



## InfoSeeker

ManniX-ITA said:


> Turns out the Calitemp sensors doesn't strictly need an X4.
> I have 3 of them on the X4 and the 4th connected to a Splitty9 configured as aquabus hub.
> It's working just fine.



Where is the splitty9 connected?

If it is to the 4th port on the splitty4, then yes, it should work because it is essentially on an extension, and still independent of the other 3.


----------



## ManniX-ITA

InfoSeeker said:


> Where is the splitty9 connected?
> 
> If it is to the 4th port on the splitty4, then yes, it should work because it is essentially on an extension, and still independent of the other 3.


Indeed, I tried also without the X4 and it doesn't work.
I had either to option to hang the RTC Clock on the Splitty9 or the X4.

Moved the RTC Clock on the Aquero and the X4 on the Splitty9.
I'm going to place it in the middle of the chassis so is more convenient for all the Calitemps.

I have also the OCTO connected there and still 6 ports free.
Bit bulky, wish it wasn't mandatory to use the X4.


----------



## skupples

the stuff I got in from Sidewinder definitely looks like it got sammiched in the back of the rack, for years... hope it still works. fine.


----------



## WiLd FyeR

Does anyone have any ideas on how to mount the Aquaero 6 in cases with no 5.25 mounts?


----------



## iamjanco

WiLd FyeR said:


> Does anyone have any ideas on how to mount the Aquaero 6 in cases with no 5.25 mounts?


What I did:


























It's not a case mind you, but the mounting could be similar if you've got (or can make) a 5.25 slot in the front of your case. Either that or lose the front LED and run the AQ like an LT.

What I did was use some Caselabs brackets, aligning the front faceplate of the AQ with the front of the aluminum panel using standoffs. In any event, you might not find those brackets anywhere today though and would probably have to fabricate something similar to them out of thin metal.

*Some additional info (corrections made above as well):*

*Mounting material aquaero 5/6 LT for drive bay*:










*Caselabs mounting brackets *(no link to actual two-bay product as it isn't available anywhere as far as I can tell in a quick search for it; long, non-adjustable, white version displayed; I used the short, black, two bay non-adjustable version):










The *single bay adjustable version* is still available still on Amazon, in white (it might work as well; perhaps with slight modifications to the mounting holes):


----------



## sakete

WiLd FyeR said:


> Does anyone have any ideas on how to mount the Aquaero 6 in cases with no 5.25 mounts?


You can try using double sided tape and stick it inside your case where it's out of the way, like I did (with a 6 LT).


----------



## skupples

what is that though


----------



## sakete

skupples said:


> what is that though


That's an Aquaero 6 LT + heatsink stuck to front inside of my case, near the top above my 140mm intake fans.


----------



## iamjanco

See the additional info and changes I made to my post above.


----------



## skupples

sakete said:


> That's an Aquaero 6 LT + heatsink stuck to front inside of my case, near the top above my 140mm intake fans.


I got that.

I was talking about Janco.



iamjanco said:


> See the additional info and changes I made to my post above.



ty sir. it still doesn't tell us what that device is. did you build a custom water cooled guitar head?


----------



## iamjanco

skupples said:


> I got that.
> 
> I was talking about Janco.
> 
> ty sir. it still doesn't tell us what that device is. *did you build a custom water cooled guitar head*?


not quite...

Please excuse the OCD:



Spoiler


----------



## GTXJackBauer

OMG Janco! lol!


----------



## sakete

***!!


----------



## skupples

i'm not even mad. I'm farking truly impressed.

I've often times thought about clunking together a final solution. you built a pristine one.

what's the aluminum stuff called? Maker Bar?


----------



## war4peace

2x MoRa 360 on top of each other, well done, sir, well done.
I would have used 180mm fans, but that's just me. Other then that, excellent work there!


----------



## iamjanco

skupples said:


> i'm not even mad. I'm farking truly impressed.
> 
> I've often times thought about clunking together a final solution. you built a pristine one.
> 
> *what's the aluminum stuff called?* Maker Bar?


It goes by a number of names like extruded aluminum, extrusion, aluminum profiles, t-slot, 80/20, "maker bar," etc. In the case of the big guy on the right, it's *80/20 T-Slot, specifically their 30-3060*. Other than the aluminum panels and some of the nuts and bolts used in them, for the most part in this build, the bits and pieces like brackets and hardware that are attached and/or supporting something are called 30 Series (because they're spec'd to work with 30 Series T-Slot).



war4peace said:


> *2x MoRa 360 *on top of each other, well done, sir, well done.
> I would have used 180mm fans, but that's just me. Other then that, excellent work there!


Thanks  Yeah, I knew what I was getting into when I opted for the 140mm fans (as well as the PWM SW3s and their pullup issues), but I've usually never been one to be daunted by most challenges. You might not find it easy (e.g.) getting me into a wingsuit though (rhetorically and literally speaking, that is) 

Btw, they're actually 2x MoRa 420s stacked. Stainless.


----------



## war4peace

That's awesome. I have a single MoRa (white) 420 and using 4x 230mm white BitFenix fans on it. There were no fancy RGB or aRGB fans when I bought them, and don't feel like changing them just for some light. Maybe at my next major upgrade. For now, I have saved to buy a large 3D printer, which I plan on using to make some custom PC parts.


----------



## criskoe

Hate following up with a booby question after seeing that behemoth of a rad setup lol, But do any of you guys have experience with auqa computers RGB strips? Like the Farbwerk 360 or others. 

Im curious as to how Aqua Computer strips display white light. Do they just light up red,green,blue LEDs at the same time to create white? Or can they actually do pure white and if so can you adjust the shade of white from warm to cool to your liking? I can’t seem to find any info on his anywhere.

Seen as I have a Aquaero now and have removed the corsair commander pro I was kinda hoping to keep it all in the same eco system. Im not wanting to create a crazy rainbow light show or anything. Just thinking i might want to add one small strip to cast a small amount of white light into the case as the rest of my build is basically rgb free. I thought about getting some normal white strips but also thought it might be cool to be able to set rgb to trigger red or something on alarms. 


Anybody out there that might have some input would be sweet. Thanks.


----------



## oreonutz

iamjanco said:


> not quite...
> 
> Please excuse the OCD:
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler
> 
> 
> 
> 
> View attachment 344168
> 
> 
> View attachment 344170
> 
> 
> View attachment 344172


When I grow up One day, I want to be just like Janco!

Respect man!


----------



## oreonutz

criskoe said:


> Hate following up with a booby question after seeing that behemoth of a rad setup lol, But do any of you guys have experience with auqa computers RGB strips? Like the Farbwerk 360 or others.
> 
> Im curious as to how Aqua Computer strips display white light. Do they just light up red,green,blue LEDs at the same time to create white? Or can they actually do pure white and if so can you adjust the shade of white from warm to cool to your liking? I can’t seem to find any info on his anywhere.
> 
> Seen as I have a Aquaero now and have removed the corsair commander pro I was kinda hoping to keep it all in the same eco system. Im not wanting to create a crazy rainbow light show or anything. Just thinking i might want to add one small strip to cast a small amount of white light into the case as the rest of my build is basically rgb free. I thought about getting some normal white strips but also thought it might be cool to be able to set rgb to trigger red or something on alarms.
> 
> 
> Anybody out there that might have some input would be sweet. Thanks.


I do have some. I have a few Farbwerk Nano's and the Light strips that come with them. There does not appear to be dedicated white on them, but I am not a huge fan of white so I have not really tested them. I can make a video with my phone or something if you like though, not much a video guy so I don't know how well white balanced it will be to show the white, but I can put like a known white peice of paper or something in the shot to compare it to.

I love the power of their RGBpx control though. I actually wired up my Phanteks Halos, Phanteks Light Strips, and Corsair Light Strips to them. Pretty awesome control, and it all gets saved to the device, so no need to run the software like with Corsair. To be fair Corsair does have hardware lighting profiles, where you can save the Effects to the Lighting Node, but it seriously limits what you can do, with the RGBpx even the damn sound based effects will work without aquasuite running as long as the RGBpx device is plugged in via USB, I have a few Nano's and a bunch of Quadro's and so far its worked flawlessly on all of them, I love it. 

This doesn't have any white in, I will actually break out the actual AQ RGB Strips and record something with those if you want, but here is some picks and a video to give you an idea of how well the RGBpx works, even with stuff its not supposed to work with (If you wire it up correctly.) P.S. This is my Recent Server Build, so the Hard Drive Section is all Racked up with 8x4TB WD Reds which made me mount my Pump further to the left. The Side fan is to move air over the Raid and 10Gbe Cards, both which get pretty hot and complain without active air under full load. And the Block Lighting right now is currently connected to the Mobo, however I am going to switch that out later in the week and pull out the 12v non-addressable lights in it and replace them with some +5v Addressable and then hook them up to the Nano. So for now the only lights not in sync are the Block and Mobo Lights.



Spoiler


----------



## skupples

oreonutz said:


> When I grow up One day, I want to be just like Janco!
> 
> Respect man!


welcome back.


----------



## criskoe

oreonutz said:


> I do have some. I have a few Farbwerk Nano's and the Light strips that come with them. There does not appear to be dedicated white on them, but I am not a huge fan of white so I have not really tested them. I can make a video with my phone or something if you like though, not much a video guy so I don't know how well white balanced it will be to show the white, but I can put like a known white peice of paper or something in the shot to compare it to.
> 
> I love the power of their RGBpx control though. I actually wired up my Phanteks Halos, Phanteks Light Strips, and Corsair Light Strips to them.


Hey thanks for the reply. No need to do a video. The video wont really be able to capture the light properly anyways. Appreciate the offer tho. But If you wouldn't mind just firing a strip up and turn it to full white and then just look at the strip and let me know if you see just white or you see the red,green,blue leds lit up. That will basically tell me what i need to know. 

Also wait a sec. You can get the corsair strips to work on the nano??? I already have a few corsair strips that ive used with the commander pro. And they do whites with out the other colors. Im trying to avoid re installing a commander pro for just one strip. LOL. Man if I could get these corsair strips to work with RGBpx that would be pretty awesome. How did you do it?


----------



## skupples

hmmm... I would love to hook my LS100 light bars up to my farbwerk. icue is trash.


----------



## oreonutz

skupples said:


> welcome back.


Why Thank You Good Sir! Hope all is well! I have been lurking for about a week, figured I would finally say something, lol!


----------



## oreonutz

criskoe said:


> Hey thanks for the reply. No need to do a video. The video wont really be able to capture the light properly anyways. Appreciate the offer tho. But If you wouldn't mind just firing a strip up and turn it to full white and then just look at the strip and let me know if you see just white or you see the red,green,blue leds lit up. That will basically tell me what i need to know.
> 
> Also wait a sec. You can get the corsair strips to work on the nano??? I already have a few corsair strips that ive used with the commander pro. And they do whites with out the other colors. Im trying to avoid re installing a commander pro for just one strip. LOL. Man if I could get these corsair strips to work with RGBpx that would be pretty awesome. How did you do it?


Its actually pretty simple. So RGBpx is AQ's +5v Addressable line. The only difference is they seem to have 2 data Pins. I think the second one must be used for the AmbientPX Stuff, or its dead, haven't quite figured that one out yet. But if you hook up the 3pin Corsair, or 3 Pin Standard addressible RGB to it, all you have to do is get your pinout right. I use Dupont Breadboard Jumper Cables when testing to wire everything together, and then once I know it works and I am ready to make it work for good, I simply solder on some connectors for the applicable devices on both sides making sure that the correct wire connects to the corresponding pin and you are good to go.

For both Corsair, RGBpx, and Standard 5v Addressable you have 3 Main pins. Those are +5v, Data, and Ground.

For Corsair Light Strips, looking at the Connector on the Lighting Node/Commander Pro, from left to right, 1 being the left most pin:
1 = Ground
2 = Data
3 = 5v

For Standard Addressable RGB, the order is obvious because there is a No Pin.
1= 5v
2= Data
3 = No Pin/Not Used
4 = Ground

For Phanteks its the same exact as Standard, they just pull the No Pin, they also color their Hot Wire Grey, so its real easy to orientate correctly:
1 = 5v
2 = Data
3 = Ground
(So Phanteks and most Companies addressible RGB that follow the standard use this order, and its exactly opposite of what Corsair Uses)

For RGBpx they seem to follow the Standard, to be on the safe side pull out a multi meter to find your ground from left to right its:
1 = 5v
2 = Not Used / Possible Second Data Pin
3 = Data
4 = Ground

Its easy to get your orientation wrong, so always keep a multi meter handy so you can quickly test for the Hot or Ground, but once you know the orientation, then the rest as easy. Again before doing any soldering, I would just grab you some Breadboard Jumper Cables, and that will allow you to easily connect your RGB Strips from Corsair or whomever to your RGBpx Device without soldering. Oh one thing though, most RGBpx Devices use these super small connectors that the Jumper Cables won't fit into, for this reason I order me a few of these aquabus cables, these fit into the RGBpx Port, and then the other side is a Fan Header, then you can connect your Jumpers to that. Hope this helps! 

Here is that Aquabus Cable: 
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B077P3XQ9T/ref=
(Not Currently in Stock at Amazon, but you can usually find it at either PPC or ModMyMods.


And here is some Jumper Cables (Although there are a thousand different brands, so don't be afraid to look for the best deal, these were just the first to come up in my quick search: 
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MU0IMFF/ref=


----------



## oreonutz

skupples said:


> hmmm... I would love to hook my LS100 light bars up to my farbwerk. icue is trash.


Agreed. The Amount of time iCue has caused a Game or software to crash is not even funny. I can't stand iCue! RGBpx for life!

So the old Fabwerk's do 12v, and you can even use your Aquaero to drive 12v RGB, it actually works quite well.

But the new stuff, with RGBpx, so anything from the Fabwerk 360. to Nano, to Quadro, to Octo, and even one of the Pumps, that have a RGBpx Port on it, are all capable of 5v addressable RGB, and this stuff is fricking powerful man! Never need to touch iCue AGAIN!


----------



## oreonutz

criskoe said:


> Hey thanks for the reply. No need to do a video. The video wont really be able to capture the light properly anyways. Appreciate the offer tho. But If you wouldn't mind just firing a strip up and turn it to full white and then just look at the strip and let me know if you see just white or you see the red,green,blue LEDs lit up. That will basically tell me what i need to know.
> 
> Also wait a sec. You can get the corsair strips to work on the nano??? I already have a few corsair strips that ive used with the commander pro. And they do whites with out the other colors. I'm trying to avoid re installing a commander pro for just one strip. LOL. Man if I could get these corsair strips to work with RGBpx that would be pretty awesome. How did you do it?


So what you are looking for, isn't to see if their is actually a 4th dedicated row of LED's on the strip that does only white, but to see if the strips themselves seem to do White well?

If what you are asking is if they do have a dedicated white light, the answer is unfortunately no. The easiest way to test this, is to put on a pattern that switches quickly between Red, Green, Blue, White, and then Black (So Off). Then turn the brightness down to about 5% so that you can look straight at the bulb. Then you will clearly be able to see where the 4 individualized LED's are inside each individual RGB Light. And on the RGBpx Light, it has a Red, Green, and Blue, as expected, but then when it goes to make white, it fires all 3 Lights together at the same time, to approximate white as best as it can. It does an ok job approximating it, but in my opinion I seriously doubt it will satisfy you.

My Corsair Lights are mounted in the crevice of my case to give ambient lighting to the Radiator, so I will have to dig another strip up (I have about 20 of them lying around my office) hook it up to my nano, and see if I can see an individual white light on it when lit up. I will let you know. If it does work, because you said it does white well, if it still does it well hooked up to the RGBpx, then I would say this is a definite solution that you should go for!


----------



## criskoe

oreonutz said:


> So what you are looking for, isn't to see if their is actually a 4th dedicated row of LED's on the strip that does only white, but to see if the strips themselves seem to do White well?
> 
> If what you are asking is if they do have a dedicated white light, the answer is unfortunately no. The easiest way to test this, is to put on a pattern that switches quickly between Red, Green, Blue, White, and then Black (So Off). Then turn the brightness down to about 5% so that you can look straight at the bulb. Then you will clearly be able to see where the 4 individualized LED's are inside each individual RGB Light. And on the RGBpx Light, it has a Red, Green, and Blue, as expected, but then when it goes to make white, it fires all 3 Lights together at the same time, to approximate white as best as it can. It does an ok job approximating it, but in my opinion I seriously doubt it will satisfy you.
> 
> My Corsair Lights are mounted in the crevice of my case to give ambient lighting to the Radiator, so I will have to dig another strip up (I have about 20 of them lying around my office) hook it up to my nano, and see if I can see an individual white light on it when lit up. I will let you know. If it does work, because you said it does white well, if it still does it well hooked up to the RGBpx, then I would say this is a definite solution that you should go for!


Thanks for the write up above. Very good info thanks.

As for the white on the strip. Yeah no sorry im not wondering if it has its own dedicated white led as it most positively wont. What im wondering is when you turn the strip to white and when you actually look directly at the little led, does it just look solid white? or can you actually see the little red, green and blue leds lit up as well. A camera cant pick it up but your eye will clearly see it. the light it casts will look kinda blue white but when you look right at the little led itself you will see the little red, green and blue leds. thats what im wondering if the RGBpx strips do. Cause the corsair ones dont. When you look directly at the leds on the corsair strips. they actually look pure white. Im not sure how the corsair ones are doing it as its from the same little module that the other colors come out of. Its not a dedicated white led. 

Why this matters is where i want to place the rgb strip, the tube reservoir catches a reflection of the strip and i can see the leds. I just tried a cheap cable mod rgb strip and in reflection off the res, the leds are causing a rainbow effect even tho the light cast into the case is a blueish white. Hope you understand what i mean. LOL


----------



## oreonutz

criskoe said:


> Thanks for the write up above. Very good info thanks.
> 
> As for the white on the strip. Yeah no im not wondering if it has its own dedicated white led as it most positively doesn't. What im wondering is when you turn the strip to white and when you actually look directly at the little led, does it just look solid white? or can you actually see the little red, green and blue leds lit up as well. A camera cant pick it up but your eye will clearly see it. the light it casts will look kinda blue white but when you look right at the little led itself you will see the little red, green and blue leds. thats what im wondering if the RGBpx strips do. Cause the corsair ones dont. When you look directly at the leds on the corsair strips. they actually look pure white. Im not sure how the corsair ones are doing it as its from the same little module that the other colors come out of. Its not a dedicated white led.
> 
> Why this matters is where i want to place the rgb strip, the tube reservoir catches a reflection of the strip and i can see the leds. I just tried a cheap cable mod rgb strip and in reflection off the res, the leds are causing a rainbow effect even tho the light cast into the case is a blueish white. Hope you understand what i mean. LOL


Yup! I get exactly what you mean! And it is actually possible that the Corsair use a dedicated White, I mean don't get me wrong, I doubt that they do too, but there is a new +5v Addressable standard that includes a dedicated White LED in each individual Bulb, and it uses the same exact 3 Pins. Because of the way Addressable work, instead of being like 12v (where you have an 4 Pins, one for Red, Green, and Blue, and then the 4th for Ground, so there is no way to incorporate white in without adding a pin or taking away a color) where your colors are based on the amount of power sent to each individual's color's pin, instead you are actually just sending 5v to each Microcontroller on the aRGB Strip and then that Microcontroller is telling the LED's in each Bulb how much of each color to light up. Because of this, there is not the same limitation of having to change the pinout to accompany an extra dedicated bulb, its just a matter of changing the microcontroller used in the argb strip to address a 4th color, in this case white. 

Because I type too damn much, I am putting the rest in Spoilers, in an endeavor to not take up the entire page with one post:


Spoiler



Hopefully that makes sense, this is obviously just a layman's understanding of this as well, so please don't take this as gospel, this is just from my research, I obviously am not well versed on the exact terminologies and everything. But Because of this, I know that there is a revision of the aRGB standard that incorporate's White Lights into each Bulb, making it possible to light up strips that look much better than your average RGB Lights that don't have a dedicated white.

So for instance, on the AQ aRGB Light strip that I have, when you turn the brightness down to 5% so you can easily stare directly at one Bulb, and then you set up a pattern to Use 100% Red, then 100% Green, Then 100% Blue, Then tell it do do Pure White, while looking directly at an individual bulb you can actually see the individual Green LED Light up, then slightly to the Right of it the Red, Then Slightly to the Right of it the Blue, Then for White you see all 3 Light Up, and it definitely looks like an off white, and that is because it is definitely firing all 3 LED's in that bulb to create that white effect. However, this is also because its dimmed to 5%, which changes the color slightly. If you push the LED strip to 100%, and then dare to look at the LED straight on, which will damn near blind you because these things get bright, It does look like a Much more accurate White. And because the LED's are so physically close to each other, when its that bright, you can not tell that there are 3 different LEDS firing to make white, it just looks white. Its still not perfect, but its damn close.

Either the Corsair Strips do the same exact Trick, or where is a dedicated LED in each Bulb that is creating the white. Of course if there is, it also depends on The RGBpx Controller's Ability to talk to the microcontroller in the RGB Strip correctly to make it fire the white light if it does indeed have it. These controllers are advanced, so I wouldn't be surprised if it could, but I have to hook it up to test it. I will do one test with the dreaded iCue Software, Ugh... I really don't want to install that garbage on my new server, but for science I can boot up a VM, Pass the Lighting Node Pro to it, and then install iCue in the VM, and run the test that way. That way we have the strip being run the way it was designed to, and we can know for sure if it does has an individual White Bulb. Of course this information could already be on the internet already, but instead of searching for it, I will run the test myself, because why not! I have a lab, might as well use it! LOL!

Then, whether or not it does have a white light, I will hook it up to my Nano. If it does end up having a White LED in it, then when we hook it up to the Nano we will be looking to see if it still lights up the White light. If it does, then hell yeah, thats impressive, and I would say thats what you should do. If it turns out however, that the Corsair Light Strip does not have a dedicated white LED, then what I will be looking for when hooking it up to the Nano, is to see if the White is lit up the same. You have already mentioned that you like the way they do white, so if it doesn't have a white LED, then chances are that might come down to the way Corsair handles approximating white in their firmware, so then the question will be is if when hooked up to RGBpx if that behavior continues.

Once I have my findings I will post it here, and let you know what I discover. Should be interesting. I need about an hour or so, then will report back. (Maybe more, maybe less, I tend to work slow sometimes, lol.)


----------



## war4peace

criskoe said:


> Hate following up with a booby question after seeing that behemoth of a rad setup lol, But do any of you guys have experience with auqa computers RGB strips? Like the Farbwerk 360 or others.
> 
> Im curious as to how Aqua Computer strips display white light. Do they just light up red,green,blue LEDs at the same time to create white? Or can they actually do pure white and if so can you adjust the shade of white from warm to cool to your liking? I can’t seem to find any info on his anywhere.


I do, and I have. The white is the purest white I've seen in a long time. No blue-ish tint, at all.
With that being said, I don't know whether it's achieved by combining colors or not, but here's proof.
I have captured the color with Color Grab app from my phone, see below.


----------



## criskoe

oreonutz said:


> Yup! I get exactly what you mean! And it is actually possible that the Corsair use a dedicated White, I mean don't get me wrong, I doubt that they do too, but there is a new +5v Addressable standard that includes a dedicated White LED in each individual Bulb, and it uses the same exact 3 Pins. Because of the way Addressable work, instead of being like 12v (where you have an 4 Pins, one for Red, Green, and Blue, and then the 4th for Ground, so there is no way to incorporate white in without adding a pin or taking away a color) where your colors are based on the amount of power sent to each individual's color's pin, instead you are actually just sending 5v to each Microcontroller on the aRGB Strip and then that Microcontroller is telling the LED's in each Bulb how much of each color to light up. Because of this, there is not the same limitation of having to change the pinout to accompany an extra dedicated bulb, its just a matter of changing the microcontroller used in the argb strip to address a 4th color, in this case white.
> 
> Because I type too damn much, I am putting the rest in Spoilers, in an endeavor to not take up the entire page with one post:
> 
> 
> Spoiler
> 
> 
> 
> Hopefully that makes sense, this is obviously just a layman's understanding of this as well, so please don't take this as gospel, this is just from my research, I obviously am not well versed on the exact terminologies and everything. But Because of this, I know that there is a revision of the aRGB standard that incorporate's White Lights into each Bulb, making it possible to light up strips that look much better than your average RGB Lights that don't have a dedicated white.
> 
> So for instance, on the AQ aRGB Light strip that I have, when you turn the brightness down to 5% so you can easily stare directly at one Bulb, and then you set up a pattern to Use 100% Red, then 100% Green, Then 100% Blue, Then tell it do do Pure White, while looking directly at an individual bulb you can actually see the individual Green LED Light up, then slightly to the Right of it the Red, Then Slightly to the Right of it the Blue, Then for White you see all 3 Light Up, and it definitely looks like an off white, and that is because it is definitely firing all 3 LED's in that bulb to create that white effect. However, this is also because its dimmed to 5%, which changes the color slightly. If you push the LED strip to 100%, and then dare to look at the LED straight on, which will damn near blind you because these things get bright, It does look like a Much more accurate White. And because the LED's are so physically close to each other, when its that bright, you can not tell that there are 3 different LEDS firing to make white, it just looks white. Its still not perfect, but its damn close.
> 
> Either the Corsair Strips do the same exact Trick, or where is a dedicated LED in each Bulb that is creating the white. Of course if there is, it also depends on The RGBpx Controller's Ability to talk to the microcontroller in the RGB Strip correctly to make it fire the white light if it does indeed have it. These controllers are advanced, so I wouldn't be surprised if it could, but I have to hook it up to test it. I will do one test with the dreaded iCue Software, Ugh... I really don't want to install that garbage on my new server, but for science I can boot up a VM, Pass the Lighting Node Pro to it, and then install iCue in the VM, and run the test that way. That way we have the strip being run the way it was designed to, and we can know for sure if it does has an individual White Bulb. Of course this information could already be on the internet already, but instead of searching for it, I will run the test myself, because why not! I have a lab, might as well use it! LOL!
> 
> Then, whether or not it does have a white light, I will hook it up to my Nano. If it does end up having a White LED in it, then when we hook it up to the Nano we will be looking to see if it still lights up the White light. If it does, then hell yeah, thats impressive, and I would say thats what you should do. If it turns out however, that the Corsair Light Strip does not have a dedicated white LED, then what I will be looking for when hooking it up to the Nano, is to see if the White is lit up the same. You have already mentioned that you like the way they do white, so if it doesn't have a white LED, then chances are that might come down to the way Corsair handles approximating white in their firmware, so then the question will be is if when hooked up to RGBpx if that behavior continues.
> 
> Once I have my findings I will post it here, and let you know what I discover. Should be interesting. I need about an hour or so, then will report back. (Maybe more, maybe less, I tend to work slow sometimes, lol.)


Wow thanks for such a detailed write up. Makes much more sense. I realized afterwards that the strip I was trying is your normal standard 4 pin RGB. So it could actually be just the reason that the red,green and blue stand out so much when looking directly at it. It also doesn’t help that it’s a crappy cable mod strip too. 

Feeling spontaneous. I just cut the cable off the Cablemod 4 pin RGB strip. Don’t care it sucks. And I stripped back the jacket on cable 1, 2 and 4. Twisted the wire nice and tight almost to form a pin. And following your pin out I inserted the twisted wire into the connector end of the Corsair strip. Making sure to connect 5v-5v. Data-Data. Ground-Ground. I then plugged it into the 5v argb port on the mb. Loaded up Asus aura. And boom it works. Lmao. Sweet. Looks like I’m not going to need to buy anything after all. I don’t care for rainbows or flashing light shows. Just wanted a nice adjustable white light. I just played around with it and using the colour wheel I can adjust the white to warm or cold white which is just what I wanted. Aura sure isn’t great but this look like it’s gunna work perfect for me. No hubs to install. And I already have a strip and now a make shift connector. Now to just break out the iron to make the connections more permanent.  man thanks again for sharing those pin outs. 

On a side note. You are correct about dimming the Corsair led. I just tried it within aura. If I dim the Corsair led. You can see the red, green, blue. But when I jack up the brightness to past half way. It’s so bright that it’s looks solid white. So exactly how you explained. Corsair isn’t doing any black magic. Lol. The cable mod strip is just so poor that you can see it even on full brightness. Lol.


----------



## criskoe

war4peace said:


> I do, and I have. The white is the purest white I've seen in a long time. No blue-ish tint, at all.
> With that being said, I don't know whether it's achieved by combining colors or not, but here's proof.
> I have captured the color with Color Grab app from my phone, see below.



Nice! Thanks for that. And this is with a farbwerk 360 and the strips that come with it?


----------



## oreonutz

criskoe said:


> Wow thanks for such a detailed write up. Makes much more sense. I realized afterwards that the strip I was trying is your normal standard 4 pin RGB. So it could actually be just the reason that the red,green and blue stand out so much when looking directly at it. It also doesn’t help that it’s a crappy cable mod strip too.
> 
> Feeling spontaneous. I just cut the cable off the Cablemod 4 pin RGB strip. Don’t care it sucks. And I stripped back the jacket on cable 1, 2 and 4. Twisted the wire nice and tight almost to form a pin. And following your pin out I inserted the twisted wire into the connector end of the Corsair strip. Making sure to connect 5v-5v. Data-Data. Ground-Ground. I then plugged it into the 5v argb port on the mb. Loaded up Asus aura. And boom it works. Lmao. Sweet. Looks like I’m not going to need to buy anything after all. I don’t care for rainbows or flashing light shows. Just wanted a nice adjustable white light. I just played around with it and using the colour wheel I can adjust the white to warm or cold white which is just what I wanted. Aura sure isn’t great but this look like it’s gunna work perfect for me. No hubs to install. And I already have a strip and now a make shift connector. Now to just break out the iron to make the connections more permanent.  man thanks again for sharing those pin outs.
> 
> On a side note. You are correct about dimming the Corsair led. I just tried it within aura. If I dim the Corsair led. You can see the red, green, blue. But when I jack up the brightness to past half way. It’s so bright that it’s looks solid white. So exactly how you explained. Corsair isn’t doing any black magic. Lol. The cable mod strip is just so poor that you can see it even on full brightness. Lol.


CRAP!!! I haven't finished reading this, I just started reading it, and I feel so damn bad about what you are about to say...

I should have put a huge warning... DO NOT MIX 12v RGB with 5v RGB!!! So sorry, I should have said that! I hope the rest of this story doesn't include something blowing up. I have fried RGB Strips before doing this, and unfortunately its always the 5v strips that go, because they can't handle the 12v shoved down it, where as 12v RGB strips just won't work properly hooked up to 5v controllers, so hopefully thats all you have experienced here. OK going to finish reading your post now.

But in the future, definitely be aware, do not mix 12v rgb with 5v. Its the only no-no when making your own cables for connecting different Brand's RGB Implementation. 

I will just edit this post when I am finished Reading yours.


*EDIT:*

PHHEEWW! I guess I should have finished reading your post first before responding. I thought you had said in a prior post that the cablemod cable was a 12v RGB Implementation. But it turns out its a 5v that just uses 4 pinned connectors (Like Aqua Computer does), PHHEEWW!

Good Job Man! Hell yeah! I am glad it worked for you!

But yeah definitely if you ever have a question in the future whether or not an RGB Implementation is 12v or 5v, just break out even a cheap multimeter, fire up the RGB strip the way you normally would, and test it to see which Voltage it measures at. As long as you are only mixing RGB implementations from other brands using the same voltage, then you will always be good!

So Glad it worked for you man! Great Work!!!


----------



## oreonutz

criskoe said:


> Nice! Thanks for that. And this is with a farbwerk 360 and the strips that come with it?


I am doing the test with an Farbwerk Nano actually, but it uses the same aRGB implementation (and aRGB Strips) that the Farbwerk 360 uses, the only difference is the 360 looks more like a Quadro, has 4 RGBpx Connections, and includes multiple aRGB Strips (Not to mention the 360 can be hooked up to an Aquaero over Aquabus as well as being plugged in via USB, recieves external power through a Molex Connection, and a Flowmeter and a Temperature Sensor can be plugged into it), where as the Farbwerk Nano has only 1 RGBpx Connection, only comes with 1 aRGB Light strip, can only be connected via USB, it receives its power through USB only and does not receive any supplemental power otherwise, it has no extra features that the 360 has, but it is super tiny and easy to hide.

So the strips I am testing are the same, and the RGB implementation that you get on the Farbwerk 360 is the same, but I am using a Nano because I have a bunch of them, and don't currently have any 360's in stock.

*EDIT:*(LOL!!!! I just realized this question was not directed at me. Well crap, I already posted it so.... My bad, lol!)

*EDIT 2:* Also, I just wanted to say, that I concur with @war4peace, when I initially said you wouldn't be happy with AQ's White, its because I was looking at it when the lights were dimmed to 5%, so I could easily see all 3 individual bulbs, and saw an Off White Color, but as I stated in my later Post, once I turned the Brightness Up to a 100%, it was a COMPLETELY Different Story. That was some of the best White I have seen from an RGB implementation, ESPECIALLY for one that doesn't have its own dedicated white LED! So yeah, just wanted to say that. I am going to stop my Forum Tirade now, eat my 3am snack, then I will get to testing for you, I think I will pull out my phone and record what I am testing too, even though obviously the colors won't be perfect from a cell phone video camera, some of what I am testing will be more obvious if you can see what I see, so yeah, assuming I don't fall asleep after I eat, I will jump to work on that, and post a video up here for you, and for anyone else in the future who searches our forum for this topic.


----------



## war4peace

criskoe said:


> Nice! Thanks for that. And this is with a farbwerk 360 and the strips that come with it?


Yes, Farbwerk 360, the Case kit, and the strips are the 30cm 15 LEDs ones. I also have the 30 LED, 27,5 cm strips, I have three of them lined up at the top of my monitor, used as Ambient lighting.


----------



## skupples

oreonutz said:


> Agreed. The Amount of time iCue has caused a Game or software to crash is not even funny. I can't stand iCue! RGBpx for life!
> 
> So the old Fabwerk's do 12v, and you can even use your Aquaero to drive 12v RGB, it actually works quite well.
> 
> But the new stuff, with RGBpx, so anything from the Fabwerk 360. to Nano, to Quadro, to Octo, and even one of the Pumps, that have a RGBpx Port on it, are all capable of 5v addressable RGB, and this stuff is fricking powerful man! Never need to touch iCue AGAIN!


hmmm i have a 1st run farbwerk, so i guess i need to upgrade if i wanna ride the ambient via aquasuite train.


----------



## Barefooter

criskoe said:


> Hate following up with a booby question after seeing that behemoth of a rad setup lol, But do any of you guys have experience with auqa computers RGB strips? Like the Farbwerk 360 or others.
> 
> Im curious as to how Aqua Computer strips display white light. Do they just light up red,green,blue LEDs at the same time to create white? Or can they actually do pure white and if so can you adjust the shade of white from warm to cool to your liking? I can’t seem to find any info on his anywhere.
> 
> Seen as I have a Aquaero now and have removed the corsair commander pro I was kinda hoping to keep it all in the same eco system. Im not wanting to create a crazy rainbow light show or anything. Just thinking i might want to add one small strip to cast a small amount of white light into the case as the rest of my build is basically rgb free. I thought about getting some normal white strips but also thought it might be cool to be able to set rgb to trigger red or something on alarms.
> 
> 
> Anybody out there that might have some input would be sweet. Thanks.


I'm running the original Farbwerk with Darkside RGBs strips with then intention of using them mainly just turned to full white.

I have a strip on the top and one at the rear of each side. Here's a few pics so you can see how it looks.


----------



## GTXJackBauer

I wish they attached a LED on the 360 like they do for the original so it looks the same on the single bay bracket that I'm currently using.

Nice rig Bare. :thumb:


----------



## oreonutz

criskoe said:


> Wow thanks for such a detailed write up. Makes much more sense. I realized afterwards that the strip I was trying is your normal standard 4 pin RGB. So it could actually be just the reason that the red,green and blue stand out so much when looking directly at it. It also doesn’t help that it’s a crappy cable mod strip too.
> 
> Feeling spontaneous. I just cut the cable off the Cablemod 4 pin RGB strip. Don’t care it sucks. And I stripped back the jacket on cable 1, 2 and 4. Twisted the wire nice and tight almost to form a pin. And following your pin out I inserted the twisted wire into the connector end of the Corsair strip. Making sure to connect 5v-5v. Data-Data. Ground-Ground. I then plugged it into the 5v argb port on the mb. Loaded up Asus aura. And boom it works. Lmao. Sweet. Looks like I’m not going to need to buy anything after all. I don’t care for rainbows or flashing light shows. Just wanted a nice adjustable white light. I just played around with it and using the colour wheel I can adjust the white to warm or cold white which is just what I wanted. Aura sure isn’t great but this look like it’s gunna work perfect for me. No hubs to install. And I already have a strip and now a make shift connector. Now to just break out the iron to make the connections more permanent.  man thanks again for sharing those pin outs.
> 
> On a side note. You are correct about dimming the Corsair led. I just tried it within aura. If I dim the Corsair led. You can see the red, green, blue. But when I jack up the brightness to past half way. It’s so bright that it’s looks solid white. So exactly how you explained. Corsair isn’t doing any black magic. Lol. The cable mod strip is just so poor that you can see it even on full brightness. Lol.


OK. In case you or anyone else cares. I did do the tests last night that I said I would do. I also filmed all of it. But, my phone has a 5 min Limit per recording session, and I made a lot of mistakes, and talked way too much, So I would have to edit it all to put it in a 5 min or less Video, and that is a little time consuming, right now I am juggling different projects, so I figured I would just describe what happened, and then if anyone wants a video I will edit it together and post in the next day or so.

But basically. Corsair's aRGB strip does not have a white LED. It does the exact same thing as the Rest of the strips out there without their own white led, and it fires all 3 LEDs (The Red, The Green, and The Blue) in a bulb at the same time, which makes a White Light. Both Corsairs and AQ's White is incredibly good. The White does actually look white, even though they are a mix of the 3 colors. There is a slight blue tint to both implementations, but its very slight, and they both would make great White Lights.

I show this in my video, and show how each bulb has 3 individual LEDs in it, and you can actually physically see all 3 when I zoom in, and see that they are just mounted very close to each other inside each bulb. A lot of people assume each light on their RGB Strip is just One LED that is capable of changing its color, and as this video shows, that's not the case, its actually 3 LEDs mounted really close to each other, and that's what allows them to simulate any color by mixing the lights at various brightness levels and mixtures.

The Corsair aRGB strip looks JUST AS GOOD plugged into RGBpx, as it does to a Commander Pro, In fact it actually gets a bit brighter connected to RGBpx.

I suspect the most interesting part in my video for most people would be where I show how to hook up a proprietary Corsair aRGB strip to a Proprietary RGBpx Connection, in this case on my Farbwerk Nano. I also show how to hook up a Phantek's aRGB strip to a Farbwerk Nano, and how to Hook up a Corsair aRGB Strip to a standard +5v aRGB Mobo Header. Its actually incredibly simple, and a game changer in my opinion because it means you can take any proprietary 5v aRGB product, and hook it up to any 5v aRGB Controller. This is something that more than a Few of us on this forum have been doing from years, I originally learned this technique in this forum back in 2015, but it seems a lot of people still don't realize this is possible. So if anyone wants me to post just that section of my how-to video, let me know and I will.


----------



## hihotic

@oreonutz

I'm interested to see.


----------



## Avacado

I'm onboard too. With all the Aquasuite, blah blah. I got an Octo and Farber. Looking forward to hooking it up next drain. Had to get clever with the connections as my MOBO doesn't have a Argb header.


----------



## IT Diva

Just started a build log for my Lian Li Lancool 2 build . . . .

https://www.overclock.net/forum/180...ite-lian-li-lancool-2-build.html#post28445000


Going to have either 3 or 6 fans on a 360 AIO, (3 X 120 Corsair LL 120's and maybe the original 3 fans that came with the AIO as well) . . . two Corsair QL 140's up top, 1 X QL 120 at the rear, and 2 QL 120's over the PSU shroud below the vertical GPU mount.


Can't decide whether to go with a Corsair Commander Pro, or an AQ6 for fan speed control . . . 


I've heard that the Commander Pro can't handle multiple fans on a PWM connector, and I'd like all the fans on the AIO to run as a group, as well as the top pair and bottom pair to run as groups.


It wouldn't be any sweat for the AQ6, but the Commander Pro could also manage all the RGB as well, and all I'd have to do is make an expander so it wouldn't get overloaded with multiple fans . . . Like I need an excuse to build a new electronics gizmo . . . 




Anyway, feedback is always welcomed . .


Darlene


----------



## criskoe

IT Diva said:


> Just started a build log for my Lian Li Lancool 2 build . . . .
> 
> https://www.overclock.net/forum/180...ite-lian-li-lancool-2-build.html#post28445000
> 
> 
> Going to have either 3 or 6 fans on a 360 AIO, (3 X 120 Corsair LL 120's and maybe the original 3 fans that came with the AIO as well) . . . two Corsair QL 140's up top, 1 X QL 120 at the rear, and 2 QL 120's over the PSU shroud below the vertical GPU mount.
> 
> 
> Can't decide whether to go with a Corsair Commander Pro, or an AQ6 for fan speed control . . .
> 
> 
> I've heard that the Commander Pro can't handle multiple fans on a PWM connector, and I'd like all the fans on the AIO to run as a group, as well as the top pair and bottom pair to run as groups.
> 
> 
> It wouldn't be any sweat for the AQ6, but the Commander Pro could also manage all the RGB as well, and all I'd have to do is make an expander so it wouldn't get overloaded with multiple fans . . . Like I need an excuse to build a new electronics gizmo . . .
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Anyway, feedback is always welcomed . .
> 
> 
> Darlene


From someone whos had a corsair commander pro for a while and just recently got a Aquaero 6 LT. I cant but help but say its much better and worth it. Way more options with how you can set things up and expand it if you want. I am so happy to be rid of icue. I definitely vote Aquaero 6 LT. No hesitation.


----------



## IT Diva

criskoe said:


> From someone whos had a corsair commander pro for a while and just recently got a Aquaero 6 LT. I cant but help but say its much better and worth it. Way more options with how you can set things up and expand it if you want. I am so happy to be rid of icue. I definitely vote Aquaero 6 LT. No hesitation.


 


I've got both the Comm Pro and AQ6 new in boxes, so I guess it wouldn't be too hard to set up sort of a side by side comparison.


This is a pretty simple straight forward build . . . not much need for a lot of controller sophistication.


I guess it will come down to a matter of how much iCue sucks, or if it works OK.


I've used so many AQ6's over the years, . . I've got no clue any more what the options are.


----------



## criskoe

IT Diva said:


> I've got both the Comm Pro and AQ6 new in boxes, so I guess it wouldn't be too hard to set up sort of a side by side comparison.
> 
> 
> This is a pretty simple straight forward build . . . not much need for a lot of controller sophistication.
> 
> 
> I guess it will come down to a matter of how much iCue sucks, or if it works OK.
> 
> 
> I've used so many AQ6's over the years, . . I've got no clue any more what the options are.


Sounds like you have more experience then most. 

I found that fans (ml pro) with icue would sometimes not respond to rpm changes and get stuck at certain rpms. And had to restart Icue service in the app for them to regain control. Didn’t happen all the time. But enough that I remembered it. I’ve also found icue goes crazy if you try to run hwinfo at the same time. 

I’ve also seen too many people have issues trying to run multiple pwm fans off one header on the commander pro. I don’t know. I never tested its limits. Was too afraid I would end up with a dead port as many have reported. 

Maybe my choice of using the word “lots of more options” wasn’t the best. But doing fan curves with configured deltas (ambient-coolant temp ) is nice. As well as the option for a simple setpoint controller option. Commander pro doesn’t do any of these. 

But again if you have used the aquaero lots before I’m sure you know all this. 

Is it worth the extra money. Well that’s up to you I guess. It’s a way better controller. Not just for options but component quality wise imo. I’m happy I swapped it out.

That being said. Sounds like your setting up a whole slew of Corsair RGB fans. Maybe staying within that eco system would out weight any issues for your RGB happiness. You might end up with icue for your RGB anyways. I’m not a fan of RGB so that wasn’t part of my decision to make the switch. I have no experience trying to control Corsair RGB via aqua suite. But I do know it would require you to buy more attachments and addons to make it work within aquasuite and even then you most likely won’t get as many fancy light show options if that’s your thing.


----------



## IT Diva

criskoe said:


> *Sounds like you have more experience then most*.
> 
> I found that fans (ml pro) with icue would sometimes not respond to rpm changes and get stuck at certain rpms. And had to restart Icue service in the app for them to regain control. Didn’t happen all the time. But enough that I remembered it. I’ve also found icue goes crazy if you try to run hwinfo at the same time.
> 
> I’ve also seen too many people have issues trying to run multiple pwm fans off one header on the commander pro. I don’t know. I never tested its limits. Was too afraid I would end up with a dead port as many have reported.
> 
> Maybe my choice of using the word “lots of more options” wasn’t the best. But doing fan curves with configured deltas (ambient-coolant temp ) is nice. As well as the option for a simple setpoint controller option. Commander pro doesn’t do any of these.
> 
> But again if you have used the aquaero lots before I’m sure you know all this.
> 
> Is it worth the extra money. Well that’s up to you I guess. It’s a way better controller. Not just for options but component quality wise imo. I’m happy I swapped it out.
> 
> That being said. *Sounds like your setting up a whole slew of Corsair RGB fans. Maybe staying within that eco system would out weight any issues for your RGB happiness*. You might end up with icue for your RGB anyways. I’m not a fan of RGB so that wasn’t part of my decision to make the switch. I have no experience trying to control Corsair RGB via aqua suite. But I do know it would require you to buy more attachments and addons to make it work within aquasuite and even then you most likely won’t get as many fancy light show options if that’s your thing.


 


It is my thread, lol . . . 


But yes, I was hoping to manage fan speed and RGB control with one integrated system. The QL's and the LL's would each have to have their own 6 port hub, (since different numbers of leds on each type) and each hub would have to go to a lighting node pro, with each LNP USB connecting to the Comm Pro.


It'll be one of those things that gets layed out on the bench and tweaked until it works.


Maybe @*Shoggy* has some experience with Aquasuite and iCue running simultaneously . . .


----------



## farpetrad

I'm running iCue for fan/rgb management and aquasuite for my high flow usb at the same time no issues. I have 2x commander pros in my 1000D, one came with it and had another that is chained off the usb headers on the first. On the first I have 10 fans running off of it using y splitters and my pump. The 2nd commander pro currently only has led strips plugged in but will fill it with fans on y splits to hook up another 480mm rad in push/pull and another pump. I also haven't had any issues with iCue and have set custom fan curves based on the water temp.


----------



## InfoSeeker

IT Diva said:


> Just started a build log for my Lian Li Lancool 2 build . . . .
> 
> https://www.overclock.net/forum/180...ite-lian-li-lancool-2-build.html#post28445000
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler
> 
> 
> 
> Going to have either 3 or 6 fans on a 360 AIO, (3 X 120 Corsair LL 120's and maybe the original 3 fans that came with the AIO as well) . . . two Corsair QL 140's up top, 1 X QL 120 at the rear, and 2 QL 120's over the PSU shroud below the vertical GPU mount.
> 
> 
> Can't decide whether to go with a Corsair Commander Pro, or an AQ6 for fan speed control . . .
> 
> 
> I've heard that the Commander Pro can't handle multiple fans on a PWM connector, and I'd like all the fans on the AIO to run as a group, as well as the top pair and bottom pair to run as groups.
> 
> 
> It wouldn't be any sweat for the AQ6, but the Commander Pro could also manage all the RGB as well, and all I'd have to do is make an expander so it wouldn't get overloaded with multiple fans . . . Like I need an excuse to build a new electronics gizmo . . .
> 
> 
> Anyway, feedback is always welcomed . .
> 
> 
> Darlene



Personally I would leave both the AQ6 & Commander Pro in their boxes.
For a double loop, 2 QUADROs (4 fan controllers, 1 flow sensor, 1 RGBpx port, each)
For a single loop, 1 OCTO (8 fan ports, 1 flow sensor, 2 RGBpx ports)

If you go with the AQ6, add a farbwerk 360 for RGB control.
I don't believe you will find a more sophisticated set of RGB control options than what the aquasuite offers.

EDIT: the RGBpx Splitty4 makes it a breeze to control PWM & RGB on multiple fans (the LL 120s)


----------



## criskoe

IT Diva said:


> It is my thread, lol . . .
> 
> 
> But yes, I was hoping to manage fan speed and RGB control with one integrated system. The QL's and the LL's would each have to have their own 6 port hub, (since different numbers of leds on each type) and each hub would have to go to a lighting node pro, with each LNP USB connecting to the Comm Pro.
> 
> 
> It'll be one of those things that gets layed out on the bench and tweaked until it works.
> 
> 
> Maybe @*Shoggy* has some experience with Aquasuite and iCue running simultaneously . . .


Lol. Didn’t notice that. Lol. Hahahahha. Sorry. Lol. And here I was thinking that I might be able to help. Lmao. NM. 

Last thing I’ll say is The commander pro isn’t a piece of garbage by any means. It does a basic job pretty well and in your situation the RGB control for those fans won’t be matched using anything else. 

Sounds like you honestly already have your answer. I’ll be quiet now. Lol.


----------



## sultanofswing

If the commander pro was 5 dollars and the Aquaero was 500 dollars I would choose the Aquaero every time.

Icue/Corsair like can pound sand.


----------



## IT Diva

InfoSeeker said:


> Personally I would leave both the AQ6 & Commander Pro in their boxes.
> For a double loop, 2 QUADROs (4 fan controllers, 1 flow sensor, 1 RGBpx port, each)
> For a single loop, 1 OCTO (8 fan ports, 1 flow sensor, 2 RGBpx ports)
> 
> If you go with the AQ6, add a farbwerk 360 for RGB control.
> I don't believe you will find a more sophisticated set of RGB control options than what the aquasuite offers.
> 
> EDIT: the RGBpx Splitty4 makes it a breeze to control PWM & RGB on multiple fans (the LL 120s)


 


From what's been posted, looks like I have more than enough stuff on hand to go in any one of several directions . . . . hardly seems to make much cents, (see what I did there) to buy more stuff yet and then deal with licensing and firmware updates hassles. I'm just trying to keep this on the simple side, at least until simple doesn't work any more . . .




Just looking at the comm pro's manual, it lists the max load on a fan channel as 1 amp, and for all 6 channels, the total is 4.5 A . . . That rules out connecting multiple fans to a single header if there's no overhead in the limit for start-up surge current. . . . . 


That's certainly a push towards the AQ6 . . . or a mini Diva-Dapter with an old swiftec X8 PSU powered PWM splitter.


----------



## GTXJackBauer

I use both and it works fine for me at least. iCUE controls the RGBs from x3 LL120s, x1 LL140, their CPU Block RGBs and their RAM RGBs. Everything else is controlled by AQ6 including the RGBs from the case, reservoir and some M.2 PCIe card.


----------



## skupples

can someone remind me if we ever figured out a decent way to keep pumps going while the system is asleep?

i assume a separate tiny dedicated power supply would be easier


----------



## oreonutz

IT Diva said:


> From what's been posted, looks like I have more than enough stuff on hand to go in any one of several directions . . . . hardly seems to make much cents, (see what I did there) to buy more stuff yet and then deal with licensing and firmware updates hassles. I'm just trying to keep this on the simple side, at least until simple doesn't work any more . . .
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just looking at the comm pro's manual, it lists the max load on a fan channel as 1 amp, and for all 6 channels, the total is 4.5 A . . . That rules out connecting multiple fans to a single header if there's no overhead in the limit for start-up surge current. . . . .
> 
> 
> That's certainly a push towards the AQ6 . . . or a mini Diva-Dapter with an old swiftec X8 PSU powered PWM splitter.


Just my Humble Opinion. With someone with almost 2 years straight of dealing with iCue and the Commander Pro, and then jumping to both the Commander Pro and the AQ6, Put the Commander Pro in a Box, and Chuck it back to where you bought it, and don't look back. 

You may have better luck than I, as some people on here clearly haven't had the same issues I have, but then again it seems just as many people have.

The issue with the Commander Pro and iCue is, it does work, but only sometimees. You get everything set up and working like you want it. RGB is all nice and settled in how you want it, fan curves are all set, its awesome. Then suddenly a few days later you look at your Intake fans, and they aren't spinning. What the hell you ask? You check the commander Pro and notice that this entire channel isn't responding. The only thing you can do to get it to respond is to OPEN UP YOUR CASE unplug the fan from the header, reset the device, plug the header back in, and now it magically works again.

You think to yourself, thats weird, maybe it is just a fluke? It is not a FLUKE!!!! THIS THING IS CRAP! RUN NOW!!! 

Lol. Ok, little dramatic obviously, but seriously thats the type of crap you might end up dealing with if you are as unlucky as I. The other problem is iCue itself. Some people don't seem to have issues with it running, but I have experienced it first hand being the cause of programs and games randomly crashing constantly, not just on my PC, but on Client PC's I have built where I had their RGB Hooked up to a Lighting Node Pro. They would call me complaining how the game keeps crashing right when they were about to win, and wanting me to "Fix The PC". Once I realized it was iCue I started using ONLY hardware profiles for the RGB devices, and then completely disabled iCue from opening, and every single time its solved the crashing issue.

In my opinion, just as simple, would be using your AQ6 and a Farbwerk 360. Any Corsair Lights you can still hook up to the Farbwerk with little effort, you are far more experienced into electrical work than I am, so I know for a fact making a few cables to hook the Corsair Stuff up to the RGBpx stuff would be a walk in the park for you, for Corsair fans you can just pick up the Splitty4, and you are good to go. As I know you already know, the advantage of going AQ, is that it just works, you set it once and forget it. What you think is simple with the Corsair device ends up causing way too many headaches at the end of the day, where AQ might not be quite AS Simple, but its simple enough, and it just works.

Jesus, I type too much. I will F off now...


----------



## oreonutz

skupples said:


> can someone remind me if we ever figured out a decent way to keep pumps going while the system is asleep?
> 
> i assume a separate tiny dedicated power supply would be easier


Thats my Preference. I have a second PSU 2 of my Pumps are Powered from, they are plugged into a Power Plug that I can turn on and off with a remote or my via voice command, and then the 3rd Pump is hooked up to the Normal PSU Power, so If I am a dumb ass and forget to power up my pumps before starting the system its no big deal. Of course I rarely allow my system to sleep, and almost never turn it off, so I am sure a more elegant solution, probably involving a relay of some kind, could be configured for someone more invested.


----------



## IT Diva

oreonutz said:


> Just my Humble Opinion. With someone with almost 2 years straight of dealing with iCue and the Commander Pro, and then jumping to both the Commander Pro and the AQ6, Put the Commander Pro in a Box, and Chuck it back to where you bought it, and don't look back.
> 
> *You may have better luck than I, as some people on here clearly haven't had the same issues I have, but then again it seems just as many people have*.
> 
> *The issue with the Commander Pro and iCue is, it does work, but only sometimees.* You get everything set up and working like you want it. RGB is all nice and settled in how you want it, fan curves are all set, its awesome. Then suddenly a few days later you look at your Intake fans, and they aren't spinning. What the hell you ask? You check the commander Pro and notice that this entire channel isn't responding. The only thing you can do to get it to respond is to OPEN UP YOUR CASE unplug the fan from the header, reset the device, plug the header back in, and now it magically works again.







I feel your pain and frustration, lol . . . . 


It is weird that it works so well for some and it's Satan's Spawn for others . . . . you didn't have more than 1 series, (SP, HD, ML, LL, QL) fans on a hub / channel at the same time did you?




Anyway . . . 


I just ordered the Farby 360 and a Splitty 4, . . . . if I go that way, I'll need a couple more S4's, but Amazon only had 1 in stock and PPC's has none.


At least I can get started using Aqua Suite for the rgb and get an idea of what to expect. 


I'll run the three LL120's on the AIO for a test setup.


----------



## skupples

yeah I could never recommend commander or iCUE to someone after my experience with it.

however, my only controller software experience before it (aside from GPU stuffs) was aquasuite, so i'm biased.

having to renew your aquasuite license every once in awhile is a small price to pay for a one stop solution for EVERYTHING you need, as far as monitoring, & controlling goes. all while using way less resources.


----------



## IT Diva

skupples said:


> yeah I could never recommend commander or iCUE to someone after my experience with it.
> 
> however, my only controller software experience before it (aside from GPU stuffs) was aquasuite, so i'm biased.
> 
> *having to renew your aquasuite license every once in awhile is a small price to pay *for a one stop solution for EVERYTHING you need, as far as monitoring, & controlling goes. all while using way less resources.


 
I've got 16 to 18 PC's, with at least as many, (if not more) AQ6's (not counting the other AC devices) . . . managing herpes would be easier then AC's licensing and firmware updates.


----------



## oreonutz

IT Diva said:


> I've got 16 to 18 PC's, with at least as many, (if not more) AQ6's (not counting the other AC devices) . . . managing herpes would be easier then AC's licensing and firmware updates.


LOL! Well at least there is no need to update if you don't need any of the new functionality, so at least there is that. But I haven't been in the Eco System long enough to have a license expire on me yet, so I guess I can't speak much to that yet.

Regarding your other Post, I did not mix fans. I only used ML120 Pro RGB and Non RGB On the Commander Pro. 

But Not Being able to find more Splitty's is a problem. I got one or 2 I am not using, but sounds like you need more than that. Hold on let me check something...

Damn, no luck. Seems as if all the Watercooling Online Stores are out of them... Hopefully Stock Comes back in Soon, that kind of sucks...

Of course you could always order from their US Facing Sales Sight, but then you are paying more then the product itself for shipping, and waiting more then a week or 2...
https://www.aquatuning.us/water-coo...accessories/23656/aquacomputer-rgbpx-splitty4


----------



## skupples

that's the problem. i don't believe they have any form of central management, & If your protocol requires being up to date, well then 

the ecosystem is the hardware with the software. maybe i'm missing an enterprise piece... seems like they'd have one with all the @ high end lab advertising they do.



IT Diva said:


> I've got 16 to 18 PC's, with at least as many, (if not more) AQ6's (not counting the other AC devices) . . . managing herpes would be easier then AC's licensing and firmware updates.


Diva, while you're alive. I hope all is well in the islands.

do you agree? a separate always on PSU is probably the easiest way to keep pumps always on. just decouple them from aquacomputer all together. just powwwaaaaaa!!!!!


----------



## oreonutz

skupples said:


> that's the problem. i don't believe they have any form of central management, & If your protocol requires being up to date, well then
> 
> the ecosystem is the hardware with the software. maybe i'm missing an enterprise piece... seems like they'd have one with all the @ high end lab advertising they do.
> 
> 
> 
> Diva, while you're alive. I hope all is well in the islands.
> 
> do you agree? a separate always on PSU is probably the easiest way to keep pumps always on. just decouple them from aquacomputer all together. just powwwaaaaaa!!!!!


Well You didn't ask me, And I believe I have already responded to this, but Yes, Give it More POWER Captain!

I actually have A Pump In my current Test Bench that is powered off one of those 12v AC to DC Power Supply adapter Things. I just plug that into a UPS, and the Pump/Pumps into it, and its been working strong for over 6 Months Now. Its all About to get upgraded here in a bit as soon as I get around to building, but while I thought it was sketch to begin with, the system has been on 24/7 since I installed the pump, and still running strong.


----------



## IT Diva

skupples said:


> that's the problem. i don't believe they have any form of central management, & If your protocol requires being up to date, well then
> 
> the ecosystem is the hardware with the software. maybe i'm missing an enterprise piece... seems like they'd have one with all the @ high end lab advertising they do.
> 
> 
> 
> Diva, while you're alive. I hope all is well in the islands.
> 
> do you agree? a separate always on PSU is probably the easiest way to keep pumps always on. just decouple them from aquacomputer all together. just powwwaaaaaa!!!!!





If I wanted to have a pump(s) stay running when the PC was asleep/off . . . I'd use a small separate 12V power supply and a double pole/double throw relay with a 12V coil.


Connect the main system PSU 12V to the normally open contacts and the coil . . . connect the alternate power source to the NC contacts, and the pump to the common.


Any time there was no 12V from the main PSU, the rely would connect the pump to the alternate 12V source . . . main system turns on, coil pulls the relay in, and the pump then runs from the system PSU.


You want to be sure to connect the negative of each power supply together so there's always a ground reference.


----------



## RoivonPC

Ok I'm going to give what info I have. Running a 6LT system, fans are working, flow meter working, flow through temp sensor reading negative. Very odd. But more importantly the pump is not being recognized. I'm using a standard Aquacomputer D5 pump (not the USB version.) The PWM cable is in the high port of the 6LT, the molex power is connected, the pump is running at 140 l/hr. Despite that, when I select the pump option in Aquasuite it's blank. More info available later when I'm back in front of the system.


----------



## sultanofswing

RoivonPC said:


> Ok I'm going to give what info I have. Running a 6LT system, fans are working, flow meter working, flow through temp sensor reading negative. Very odd. But more importantly the pump is not being recognized. I'm using a standard Aquacomputer D5 pump (not the USB version.) The PWM cable is in the high port of the 6LT, the molex power is connected, the pump is running at 140 l/hr. Despite that, when I select the pump option in Aquasuite it's blank. More info available later when I'm back in front of the system.



PWM pump should be ran from one of the fan channels. The High port you are referring to is for aquabus devices.
The pump tab in aquasuite will not show anything unless a pump is connected via USB.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## RoivonPC

sultanofswing said:


> PWM pump should be ran from one of the fan channels. The High port you are referring to is for aquabus devices.
> The pump tab in aquasuite will not show anything unless a pump is connected via USB.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk



So will I even be able to adjust the pump with a curve?


----------



## sultanofswing

RoivonPC said:


> So will I even be able to adjust the fan with a curve?



Sure you can make a fan curve that will control the pump but it’s best to run the pump at a constant speed.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## RoivonPC

sultanofswing said:


> Sure you can make a fan curve that will control the pump but it’s best to run the pump at a constant speed.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk





Alright thanks.


----------



## RoivonPC

I have a standard temp sensor that's reading negative...Kelvin offset does nothing. 

https://www.amazon.com/Aquacomputer-Inline-Temperature-Sensor-Female/dp/B003U3RX18


I may just swap it out for the Calitemp sensor I have since I learned last night I don't need the Aquabus connection for my pump.


----------



## Niju

Quick question about the Quadro. I'm using curve controllers to manage my fan speeds which are based on one of the water temp sensors connected to the Quadro. When I boot the system, the fans don't follow the fan curve and spin faster until it's in Windows and presumably the service starts (I think at the speed set at the fallback power set in the fan setup section).
Is that the expected behaviour? I thought when hardware sensors are used the Quadro didn't need the service or Aquasuite to use the right fan curve. Thanks!


----------



## skupples

IT Diva said:


> If I wanted to have a pump(s) stay running when the PC was asleep/off . . . I'd use a small separate 12V power supply and a double pole/double throw relay with a 12V coil.
> 
> 
> Connect the main system PSU 12V to the normally open contacts and the coil . . . connect the alternate power source to the NC contacts, and the pump to the common.
> 
> 
> Any time there was no 12V from the main PSU, the rely would connect the pump to the alternate 12V source . . . main system turns on, coil pulls the relay in, and the pump then runs from the system PSU.
> 
> 
> You want to be sure to connect the negative of each power supply together so there's always a ground reference.


i <3 u


----------



## oreonutz

Niju said:


> Quick question about the Quadro. I'm using curve controllers to manage my fan speeds which are based on one of the water temp sensors connected to the Quadro. When I boot the system, the fans don't follow the fan curve and spin faster until it's in Windows and presumably the service starts (I think at the speed set at the fallback power set in the fan setup section).
> Is that the expected behaviour? I thought when hardware sensors are used the Quadro didn't need the service or Aquasuite to use the right fan curve. Thanks!


If you are using a Hardware Sensor, connected directly to the Quadro, and haven't imported the sensor into the Aquasuite Playground and then used that sensor, then it should absolutely still be following your curve at boot. You may want to make sure that you have set your curve to be saved to Profile 1, and then set the Quadro to use Profile 1 at Boot. Its probably set to using Automatic at boot now, and sometimes that can pick the wrong Profile at Boot. 

But as long as the Quadro is using a Hardware Sensor from the Quadro itself, it should absolutely be capable of running the curve based on that sensor at boot, without any type of service.

(I do need to do more testing on this though, it is possible that any curve needs the background service to work on the Quadro, I don't think that is the case, but I could be wrong, I will do some testing on this to see later tonight, but most likely if that is the case someone else will chime in to correct me before then)


----------



## Niju

oreonutz said:


> If you are using a Hardware Sensor, connected directly to the Quadro, and haven't imported the sensor into the Aquasuite Playground and then used that sensor, then it should absolutely still be following your curve at boot. You may want to make sure that you have set your curve to be saved to Profile 1, and then set the Quadro to use Profile 1 at Boot. Its probably set to using Automatic at boot now, and sometimes that can pick the wrong Profile at Boot.
> 
> But as long as the Quadro is using a Hardware Sensor from the Quadro itself, it should absolutely be capable of running the curve based on that sensor at boot, without any type of service.
> 
> (I do need to do more testing on this though, it is possible that any curve needs the background service to work on the Quadro, I don't think that is the case, but I could be wrong, I will do some testing on this to see later tonight, but most likely if that is the case someone else will chime in to correct me before then)


I'll try saving to a profile, hadn't done that. Thanks!


----------



## war4peace

AFAIK Quadro does not save hardware profiles, however Aquaero does. Cheaper price tag, I guess.
Interestingly, my wife's mITX build had a QUADRO and fans start at slow speed, so I might be wrong there. Their product page does not mention hardware-saved profiles.


----------



## RoivonPC

Still curious why my standard AC g1/4" temp sensor is reporting negative?


----------



## oreonutz

RoivonPC said:


> Still curious why my standard AC g1/4" temp sensor is reporting negative?


It must be defective. Those things are easy to damage. I would plug a known good Temp Sensor into the same exact Pins that your Sensor is plugged into now. If that reports an expected temperature and not a negative, then you will know that the problem resides with the Sensor itself and not the Aquaero (or whatever hardware you are plugging your sensors into).

If however, you plug in a known good Temp Sensor to the same pins, and it too read's negative/unexpected numbers, then now we can assume the issue lies within the hardware, and can troubleshoot form that point on.

If it is the sensor itself though, your only practical remedy is to RMA the Sensor and get a new one.


----------



## RoivonPC

I kinda figured it was faulty. I'll be taking it out after I drain this first round of water and putting in mayhems. I have a calitemp sensor that I hooked up and just let sit on my desk that's reporting just fine. Since I don't need the aquabus for my pump (like I originally thought I did) this is a perfect time to use it. 





oreonutz said:


> It must be defective. Those things are easy to damage. I would plug a known good Temp Sensor into the same exact Pins that your Sensor is plugged into now. If that reports an expected temperature and not a negative, then you will know that the problem resides with the Sensor itself and not the Aquaero (or whatever hardware you are plugging your sensors into).
> 
> If however, you plug in a known good Temp Sensor to the same pins, and it too read's negative/unexpected numbers, then now we can assume the issue lies within the hardware, and can troubleshoot form that point on.
> 
> If it is the sensor itself though, your only practical remedy is to RMA the Sensor and get a new one.


----------



## Shawnb99

RoivonPC said:


> I kinda figured it was faulty. I'll be taking it out after I drain this first round of water and putting in mayhems. I have a calitemp sensor that I hooked up and just let sit on my desk that's reporting just fine. Since I don't need the aquabus for my pump (like I originally thought I did) this is a perfect time to use it.



If it’s one of the inline blocks ones you can just pull the temp sensor out slowly and slide another in


----------



## oreonutz

Shawnb99 said:


> If it’s one of the inline blocks ones you can just pull the temp sensor out slowly and slide another in


Good Advice. +Rep (I didn't realize you could do that, the more you know!)

Side Note... Did you ever have your sale? I am still willing to buy some parts! LOL!


----------



## Shawnb99

oreonutz said:


> Good Advice. +Rep (I didn't realize you could do that, the more you know!)
> 
> Side Note... Did you ever have your sale? I am still willing to buy some parts! LOL!


I broke enough calitemp and temp sensors cables that I learned a few things lol. Went though at least 10 total.

I sold a few parts and then got distracted with all this virus. What are you still looking for?


----------



## oreonutz

Shawnb99 said:


> I broke enough calitemp and temp sensors cables that I learned a few things lol. Went though at least 10 total.
> 
> I sold a few parts and then got distracted with all this virus. What are you still looking for?


I dunno. Fittings, Pumps, Fittings. What do you got? LOL!


----------



## GTXJackBauer

Shawnb99 said:


> I sold a few parts and then got distracted with all this virus. What are you still looking for?





oreonutz said:


> What do you got? LOL!


----------



## oreonutz

GTXJackBauer said:


>


HAHAHA! Yup, Pretty Much like that. Thats how I feel today. Trying to track down a damn Crosshair VIII Hero, either new or in good shape used, not priced over MSRP, and it seems impossible...


----------



## Shawnb99

GTXJackBauer said:


>


----------



## oreonutz

Shawnb99 said:


> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QBV38QlmayU


HAHAHAHA!

Well damn... Alright then, lol. Guess I will get my fix elsewhere, lol!


----------



## RoivonPC

oreonutz said:


> I dunno. Fittings, Pumps, Fittings. What do you got? LOL!


I've got Alphacool fittings I'm trying to sell. 90s, l fittings, compression fittings @ 13mm.


----------



## oreonutz

RoivonPC said:


> I've got Alphacool fittings I'm trying to sell. 90s, l fittings, compression fittings @ 13mm.


Damnit. I would definitely buy them. I need 10/16's though. If you have any 90's or adapters that are just G1/4" I will take them off your hands though.


----------



## skupples

Shawnb99 said:


> I broke enough calitemp and temp sensors cables that I learned a few things lol. Went though at least 10 total.
> 
> I sold a few parts and then got distracted with all this virus. What are you still looking for?


oh hai, dual d5 



oreonutz said:


> Damnit. I would definitely buy them. I need 10/16's though. If you have any 90's or adapters that are just G1/4" I will take them off your hands though.


just remember bobo brand rotary fittings like to leak.


----------



## Niju

Anyone using an external Vison Touch?
I've just bought a Vision Touch table top ( 53238 ), but I can't seem to get it to work.
I plug it to any of the computer's USB ports and it powers on, but the only thing I can see is the Vision logo. I can go into the settings as well, but cannot see any pages.
It doesn't appear in Aquasuite (X.17) and Windows doesn't seem to see anything as plugged in. Other USB devices work fine and Aquasuite does see and control my D5 Next and my Quadro normally.
Any ideas? Do I have a faulty unit?


----------



## Niju

Niju said:


> Anyone using an external Vison Touch?
> I've just bought a Vision Touch table top ( 53238 ), but I can't seem to get it to work.
> I plug it to any of the computer's USB ports and it powers on, but the only thing I can see is the Vision logo. I can go into the settings as well, but cannot see any pages.
> It doesn't appear in Aquasuite (X.17) and Windows doesn't seem to see anything as plugged in. Other USB devices work fine and Aquasuite does see and control my D5 Next and my Quadro normally.
> Any ideas? Do I have a faulty unit?


Scratch that. Seems the cable is wonky. I moved it around a bit and it connected properly.


----------



## Shawnb99

Niju said:


> Scratch that. Seems the cable is wonky. I moved it around a bit and it connected properly.


Those vision cables are thin as hell and easy to break.


----------



## Niju

Shawnb99 said:


> Those vision cables are thin as hell and easy to break.


The external USB cable in the table top one isn't all that thin, not sure what is going on inside. I can't see an easy way to open it. 
There is definitely something wrong with the internal connection in mine unfortunately, any movement disconnects it from Aquasuite.


----------



## war4peace

Since this is related to Aquacomputer products, I have created a thread in 3D Printing section which shows a LED Strip Holder for hard and soft tubing, designed for Aquacomputer LED Strips. The holder for the 30-LED strip is complete with pictures and videos, and I am now printing the LED holder for the black 30cm, 15 LED strip. Will post there once done.

Videos below in case you CBA to visit that thread.


----------



## oreonutz

war4peace said:


> Since this is related to Aquacomputer products, I have created a thread in 3D Printing section which shows a LED Strip Holder for hard and soft tubing, designed for Aquacomputer LED Strips. The holder for the 30-LED strip is complete with pictures and videos, and I am now printing the LED holder for the black 30cm, 15 LED strip. Will post there once done.
> 
> Videos below in case you CBA to visit that thread.
> 
> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=b43uXNvQxp4
> 
> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KkYAgJvOxxM


Sweet!


----------



## war4peace

I finished design and print for both, they work very well. I will use them for my next (re)build. Planning on switching to hard tubing, been holding off for tube illumination.
In the meantime I will try a method to hide the LED Strips under a layer of material, making the LED lights less sharp and more diffuse.


----------



## oreonutz

war4peace said:


> I finished design and print for both, they work very well. I will use them for my next (re)build. Planning on switching to hard tubing, been holding off for tube illumination.
> In the meantime I will try a method to hide the LED Strips under a layer of material, making the LED lights less sharp and more diffuse.


This is a product I could see selling a lot of, especially if you can successfully diffuse the light through the tube. I would love to try it, but I don't have a good 3d Printer.


----------



## ManniX-ITA

war4peace said:


> I finished design and print for both, they work very well. I will use them for my next (re)build. Planning on switching to hard tubing, been holding off for tube illumination.
> In the meantime I will try a method to hide the LED Strips under a layer of material, making the LED lights less sharp and more diffuse.


Very nice!



oreonutz said:


> This is a product I could see selling a lot of, especially if you can successfully diffuse the light through the tube. I would love to try it, but I don't have a good 3d Printer.


You don't have to. I always use an online service.
There's plenty all over the world.
Just upload the model and select the options.
Of course it's not super cheap but not even so much expensive.

Like this one:

https://www.3dhubs.com/


----------



## ManniX-ITA

Does anyone have experience with the EK D5 pumps with the Aquaero?

I'm thinking to replace the Aqua D5 PWM in the cold loop with this one:

https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-quantum-kinetic-flt-120-d5-pwm-d-rgb-plexi

I have the EK Volume FLT and the D5 PWM with an Aqua Top but it's taking a lot of space.
Sadly EK is not selling the Volume FLT without the pump and I'm not sure if I can swap it.
I'm worried it could be problematic to control with the Aquaero.


----------



## war4peace

oreonutz said:


> This is a product I could see selling a lot of, especially if you can successfully diffuse the light through the tube. I would love to try it, but I don't have a good 3d Printer.


Yes it does diffuse light, the white PLA is excellent for this. Transparent filament is actually translucent, and it does a good job too, but I think white one is best.
Depending where you are from, I could send you a few of these, but you'd have to measure the length of your tubing and width of your LED Strip. If it's Aquacomputer, I already have the dimensions. Alternatively I could send you a few longer ones which you can cut to size. 



ManniX-ITA said:


> You don't have to. I always use an online service.
> There's plenty all over the world.
> Just upload the model and select the options.
> Of course it's not super cheap but not even so much expensive.
> 
> Like this one:
> 
> https://www.3dhubs.com/


3D Printing online services are great, but they can be tricky.
The one you mention asks for *work* e-mail address before offering a quote, that's a red flag for me. A part that costs me 3 dollars to make, including power consumption, is quoted by them to cost 12 EUR before shipping (same material and print settings). I would probably sell it for 6, accounting for printer time and wear in the long run. They also have a minimum order of 85 EUR, so no one-off orders. There's also a very limited option set for printing the object, which means if you just download a model off the Internet (e.g. mine are free to download) and send it to them, chances are you'll end up with a weak/brittle/too soft item and be none the wiser. There's a huge difference between 60% infill with a wall line count of 4, and 20% infill with a wall line count of 1. 

Just saying 
Advantages and disadvantages...


----------



## ManniX-ITA

Yes it's never close to the cost you can print yourself.
They are all online services outsourcing the job to a local company.
And of course they take a huge cut of the pie so it's expensive.
But if you just need a couple of pieces every now and then it's fine.

I used them to order a case for a development board last year, there was no minimum order or work email needed.
Anyway this is just one out of many; pretty sure there's something much cheaper around.
Their business model is based on the high quality service not the price point.

I've also considered it for a part to connect the HTC Vive Audio Deluxe strap to the Pimax VR headset.
Well at the end it was much cheaper and done better from guys selling just that piece on eBay.
It really depends on the situation.


----------



## helis4life

ManniX-ITA said:


> Does anyone have experience with the EK D5 pumps with the Aquaero?
> 
> I'm thinking to replace the Aqua D5 PWM in the cold loop with this one:
> 
> https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-quantum-kinetic-flt-120-d5-pwm-d-rgb-plexi
> 
> I have the EK Volume FLT and the D5 PWM with an Aqua Top but it's taking a lot of space.
> Sadly EK is not selling the Volume FLT without the pump and I'm not sure if I can swap it.
> I'm worried it could be problematic to control with the Aquaero.


Yeah works fine. Hooks up to a fan header and so appears under the fan category in aquasuite. But no worries controlling it


----------



## ManniX-ITA

helis4life said:


> Yeah works fine. Hooks up to a fan header and so appears under the fan category in aquasuite. But no worries controlling it


Thanks for the info.
EK started selling the same without pump, so I can keep the Aqua D5


----------



## Moose-Tech

war4peace said:


> I finished design and print for both, they work very well. I will use them for my next (re)build. Planning on switching to hard tubing, been holding off for tube illumination.
> In the meantime I will try a method to hide the LED Strips under a layer of material, making the LED lights less sharp and more diffuse.


I used this and cut out strips to diffuse both my RGB and White LED lighting strips. I Hate seeing naked LED's.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01DYSTYJ2/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1


----------



## oreonutz

Moose-Tech said:


> I used this and cut out strips to diffuse both my RGB and White LED lighting strips. I Hate seeing naked LED's.
> 
> https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01DYSTYJ2/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1


Same here! Huge Pet Peave! Nice solution to diffusing the light, I never thought about using Acrylic. I bet that works well!


----------



## war4peace

Moose-Tech said:


> I used this and cut out strips to diffuse both my RGB and White LED lighting strips. I Hate seeing naked LED's.
> 
> https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01DYSTYJ2/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1


I believe it would work very well putting the LED strip under a thin layer of white or transparent (which becomes translucent while 3D Printing) PLA. 

There are several advantages of 3D Printing tubing:
- Exact dimensions, no need to cut tubing
- Much sharper cornering without kinking
- Can be pre-bent by design at any angle
- No need to use splitters, can print the tube directly in T, Y or F form and so only use fittings at the end of the tube.
- Can print in any color or style (stone, wood, copper, silver, bronze...)
- Embedded LED Strip channels
- Automatic diffusing of light (wall between LED Strip and tube interior/exterior)

There are disadvantages as well:
- Long printing time, expect days to finish all tubing
- There's a chance for tubes to leak if printed incorrectly
- If you measured wrong (especially printing a smaller length than required) you gotta print again
- Light might be too diffuse, depending on material.








(big image)







(Big image)


----------



## Moose-Tech

I see where Aquasuite version x.17 is out. If I upgrade, will I need to recreate all my sensors and profiles again? When I upgraded to x.11 I had to manually reset all my sensors and profiles.

I had back-up profiles saved but they would not recognize any HWiNFO64 sensors, which I utilize heavily for my Aquaero profile.

I managed to save my overview page, but all the sensors had to be re-sourced to get everything working again.

Before I upgrade to this new version, I need to know if this will be a quick upgrade or one where I will have to do a significant amount of re-alignment. I just got everything working the way I want to.


----------



## oreonutz

Moose-Tech said:


> I see where Aquasuite version x.17 is out. If I upgrade, will I need to recreate all my sensors and profiles again? When I upgraded to x.11 I had to manually reset all my sensors and profiles.
> 
> I had back-up profiles saved but they would not recognize any HWiNFO64 sensors, which I utilize heavily for my Aquaero profile.
> 
> I managed to save my overview page, but all the sensors had to be re-sourced to get everything working again.
> 
> Before I upgrade to this new version, I need to know if this will be a quick upgrade or one where I will have to do a significant amount of re-alignment. I just got everything working the way I want to.


I don't know, I couldn't tell you either. I had the same exact thing happen to me when I jumped to x12 from whatever was before x10, and everyone said it shouldn't have happened if I saved backup profiles, which I had, but as you said my HWInfo Sensors all had to be resourced, they didn't pull back in automatically. It was a bit of a pain. I mean really its just like 30 to 40 mins depending on the amount of Sensors and Logging you are doing, but still a Pain in the butt. I haven't upgraded since. Hopefully someone else will have the answer on this.


----------



## ManniX-ITA

oreonutz said:


> I don't know, I couldn't tell you either. I had the same exact thing happen to me when I jumped to x12 from whatever was before x10, and everyone said it shouldn't have happened if I saved backup profiles, which I had, but as you said my HWInfo Sensors all had to be resourced, they didn't pull back in automatically. It was a bit of a pain. I mean really its just like 30 to 40 mins depending on the amount of Sensors and Logging you are doing, but still a Pain in the butt. I haven't upgraded since. Hopefully someone else will have the answer on this.


I've updated from the previous version and it was smooth.
But I think the OCTO firmware is bugged so I'd avoid it if you have one.


----------



## WiLd FyeR

I usually have my MSI afterburner up to monitor things and noticed that Aquasuite is using about 25-30% of CPU. What could be causing this issue?


----------



## ManniX-ITA

WiLd FyeR said:


> I usually have my MSI afterburner up to monitor things and noticed that Aquasuite is using about 25-30% of CPU. What could be causing this issue?


I had a similar issue; hogging down a single core 100%.
It was the version update check.
But I reported it and the latest few versions it didn't show up again.
Are you running the latest?


----------



## WiLd FyeR

ManniX-ITA said:


> I had a similar issue; hogging down a single core 100%.
> It was the version update check.
> But I reported it and the latest few versions it didn't show up again.
> Are you running the latest?


I restarted my PC and that solved the CPU usage. The version I have is 2017 so that could be part of the issue.


----------



## ManniX-ITA

WiLd FyeR said:


> I restarted my PC and that solved the CPU usage. The version I have is 2017 so that could be part of the issue.


Yep fixed for me too till did happen again.
Unfortunately I didn't find a switch to disable the Update check; only to disable Insider versions notification.


----------



## oreonutz

WiLd FyeR said:


> I usually have my MSI afterburner up to monitor things and noticed that Aquasuite is using about 25-30% of CPU. What could be causing this issue?


This seems to happen every now and again. It will pin a single core to 100 Percent Usage, seemingly randomly. I believe it may have something to do with the update checks. But all you have to do is go into Task Manager (Ctrl+Shift+Escape), go to details, locate "AquaComputerService.exe", and force close it. It usually automatically reopens on its own and is then back to normal, but in 1 Case I had to actually go into Services and start AquaComputer Service myself. This way you don't have to restart, this is much quicker and easier. Hopefully they deal with this bug in an update soon. (I have not upgraded to see if its fixed, but I also have not seen it on the change log.) 

If you are not on the newest Version, I have noticed that this seems to happen about once every other week. I have since completely blocked its ability to update in the firewall, but not sure if that has helped with this problem or not yet, as it hasn't been 2 weeks since I made that change. It's only been a little over a week, but so far so good. If I get through a month, and the problem hasn't returned, then I would be willing to say this could be a fix.

Also just to note, this has happened to me in x4, x11, x12, and x14 (Which is the last Update I have installed).


----------



## WiLd FyeR

oreonutz said:


> This seems to happen every now and again. It will pin a single core to 100 Percent Usage, seemingly randomly. I believe it may have something to do with the update checks. But all you have to do is go into Task Manager (Ctrl+Shift+Escape), go to details, locate "AquaComputerService.exe", and force close it. It usually automatically reopens on its own and is then back to normal, but in 1 Case I had to actually go into Services and start AquaComputer Service myself. This way you don't have to restart, this is much quicker and easier. Hopefully they deal with this bug in an update soon. (I have not upgraded to see if its fixed, but I also have not seen it on the change log.)
> 
> If you are not on the newest Version, I have noticed that this seems to happen about once every other week. I have since completely blocked its ability to update in the firewall, but not sure if that has helped with this problem or not yet, as it hasn't been 2 weeks since I made that change. It's only been a little over a week, but so far so good. If I get through a month, and the problem hasn't returned, then I would be willing to say this could be a fix.
> 
> Also just to note, this has happened to me in x4, x11, x12, and x14 (Which is the last Update I have installed).


Thank you experience REP+. This was my first time noticing this issue since I've had it for 5 years now.


----------



## oreonutz

ManniX-ITA said:


> I had a similar issue; hogging down a single core 100%.
> It was the version update check.
> But I reported it and the latest few versions it didn't show up again.
> Are you running the latest?


Looks like you have noticed this being tied to the update check as well. How often have you noticed this happen in your system?



WiLd FyeR said:


> Thank you experience REP+. This was my first time noticing this issue since I've had it for 5 years now.


NP Glad to help!


----------



## RoivonPC

So I have a fan curve setup for all my fans and I'm happy with it. My pump is on fan connection one on my 6LT. Now I'm understanding that I shouldn't have the pump on a curve, it should just have a set speed. Yet when I don't have a curve setup it's required to run at 100% per the screenshot. So what am I missing here?


I think I figured it out by using a preset value option in the output.


----------



## InfoSeeker

RoivonPC said:


> So I have a fan curve setup for all my fans and I'm happy with it. My pump is on fan connection one on my 6LT. Now I'm understanding that I shouldn't have the pump on a curve, it should just have a set speed. Yet when I don't have a curve setup it's required to run at 100% per the screenshot. So what am I missing here?
> 
> 
> I think I figured it out by using a preset value option in the output.



You can also use a preset controller with the pump(s) port(s) assigned to the controller.


----------



## RoivonPC

Yup! I edited the post, I found that. 







InfoSeeker said:


> You can also use a preset controller with the pump(s) port(s) assigned to the controller.


----------



## ManniX-ITA

oreonutz said:


> Looks like you have noticed this being tied to the update check as well. How often have you noticed this happen in your system?
> 
> 
> 
> NP Glad to help!


I had the issue with version X.14.
Since the upgrade to X.15 and the subsequent releases all the upgrades went smooth, no CPU hogging.


----------



## ManniX-ITA

Just installed the X.20 and again no CPU hogging issues at update check.


----------



## skupples

maybe its a secret incentive to update


----------



## oreonutz

ManniX-ITA said:


> Just installed the X.20 and again no CPU hogging issues at update check.





skupples said:


> maybe its a secret incentive to update


Good To Know, guess I will update.


----------



## Spin Cykle

Hello everyone!

I'm trying to figure out if my "problem" is user error or an actual bug in X.20. 

I've taken a bit of a break from watercooloing however, I'm still using my Aquero/Aquasuite gear. My setup is an air cooled build (5 pwm fans total, 2 intake - 2 CPU - 1 Exhaust) and a Quadro controller. The Quadro controller has 1 temperature sensor connected to monitor ambient case temperature. 

Aquasite X.20 has 4 global profiles set (Silent/Standard/Performance/Max) each set to the Quadro's 4 profiles (Silent/Standard/Performance/Max). I'm using a "Load Indicator", virtual sensor built in the playground, to automatically switch between my global profiles.

Here is my problem. Fan curve profiles 2, 3, and 4 on my Quadro are being over written by profile 1 at random. Everything will be running well, switching between profiles and than I'll noticed it's not functioning properly. I'll look at my Quadro profiles and all 4 fan curve profiles are profile number 1. 

Does anyone know why this is happening? Any help would be greatly appreciated. 

My profile logic: 

Global 1 = Quadro 1 (Silent) when virtual sensor value = 0%
Global 2 = Quadro 2 (Standard) when virtual sensor value = 25%
Global 3 = Quadro 3 (Performance) when virtual sensor value = 50%
Global 4 = Quadro 4 (Max 100%) when virtual sensor value = 75%


----------



## RoivonPC

I'm annoyed with the Asus Aura client. Will Farbwerk connect to Phanteks RGB 3 and 4 pin strips work with Farbwerk?


----------



## skupples

shouldn't be an issue if you get the right adapters.

farbwerk/aquacomputer are far superior to any of the Gamer Gear brands' RGB nonsense.


----------



## RoivonPC

What's amazing to me is that it's so damn lacking. I can't even do a blue to purple to green cycle. That's all I want!





skupples said:


> shouldn't be an issue if you get the right adapters.
> 
> farbwerk/aquacomputer are far superior to any of the Gamer Gear brands' RGB nonsense.


----------



## skupples

damn, iCUE isn't even that bad, which is a shame as I really like the LED ropes corsair rebranded. I need to figure out who else sells them.


----------



## tiefox

RoivonPC said:


> I'm annoyed with the Asus Aura client. Will Farbwerk connect to Phanteks RGB 3 and 4 pin strips work with Farbwerk?


I have a bunch of 4 pin ( non addressable ) pahtneks halos connected to a farbwerk, need to invert the last 2 wires, as farbwerk expects +12v, Blue, Red, Green and the Phanteks 4 wires is +12v, Blue, Green, Red


----------



## RoivonPC

tiefox said:


> I have a bunch of 4 pin ( non addressable ) pahtneks halos connected to a farbwerk, need to invert the last 2 wires, as farbwerk expects +12v, Blue, Red, Green and the Phanteks 4 wires is +12v, Blue, Green, Red



Do they make convertors for the RGB strip connector to change from female to male?


----------



## tiefox

RoivonPC said:


> Do they make convertors for the RGB strip connector to change from female to male?


Sorry, im not sure, I have built my own cables/adapters by soldering 4 pins to the Phanteks halos cables.


----------



## skupples

RoivonPC said:


> Do they make convertors for the RGB strip connector to change from female to male?


probably way easier to just switch the pins around.


----------



## helis4life

RoivonPC said:


> So I have a fan curve setup for all my fans and I'm happy with it. My pump is on fan connection one on my 6LT. Now I'm understanding that I shouldn't have the pump on a curve, it should just have a set speed. Yet when I don't have a curve setup it's required to run at 100% per the screenshot. So what am I missing here?
> 
> 
> I think I figured it out by using a preset value option in the output.


Why can you use a curve with the pump? 

Sent from my SM-N975F using Tapatalk


----------



## skupples

no point. you want sustained flow of 1GPM+
so really, you want you pump running as fast as you can handle listening to. always.

as for his fix. gotta set the right power type, then reduce maximum power slider.


----------



## helis4life

skupples said:


> no point. you want sustained flow of 1GPM+
> 
> so really, you want you pump running as fast as you can handle listening to. always.
> 
> 
> 
> as for his fix. gotta set the right power type, then reduce maximum power slider.


Does the pump need to be running fully speed at when the cpu/gpu load is low? I use a curve to have 2 setting, 40% below a certain Delta and 100% above it. Ive noticed running the the pump 100% with no load results in an increase of the delta T by .6 to .8 degrees

Sent from my SM-N975F using Tapatalk


----------



## skupples

no, the pump doesn't "need" to be running at peak if the PC isn't doing anything. 

that's what some of us would call margin of error. specially in a room that's rarely ever the same temp twice.


----------



## RoivonPC

I already found the proper setting to have a set level instead of a curve.


----------



## gftgy

Hey fellas! How do I connect the ATX-break to the relay on my Aquaero 6 so I can have the aquaero cut the power to my computer?

I'm sure this has been asked countless times, but I can't seem to find an answer I can make sense of in plain English.

I have:
An Aquaero 6 PRO https://shop.aquacomputer.de/product_info.php?products_id=3092
aquaero power connect - 24 pin ATX standby power / ATX break https://shop.aquacomputer.de/product_info.php?products_id=1636
and Plug for relay connector, 3 contacts (aquaero 5 and 6) https://shop.aquacomputer.de/product_info.php?products_id=2665

Obviously the two wires from the power connect/ATX break don't just plug in to the relay. Am I supposed to strip them and connect them to the relay pins on my Aquaero 6 by using the connector? Which wire goes where?

Thanks!


----------



## GTXJackBauer

I used to run my pumps on a curve. Now I just set it and forget to sustain 1 GPM at all times.


----------



## ManniX-ITA

gftgy said:


> Hey fellas! How do I connect the ATX-break to the relay on my Aquaero 6 so I can have the aquaero cut the power to my computer?
> 
> I'm sure this has been asked countless times, but I can't seem to find an answer I can make sense of in plain English.
> 
> I have:
> An Aquaero 6 PRO https://shop.aquacomputer.de/product_info.php?products_id=3092
> aquaero power connect - 24 pin ATX standby power / ATX break https://shop.aquacomputer.de/product_info.php?products_id=1636
> and Plug for relay connector, 3 contacts (aquaero 5 and 6) https://shop.aquacomputer.de/product_info.php?products_id=2665
> 
> Obviously the two wires from the power connect/ATX break don't just plug in to the relay. Am I supposed to strip them and connect them to the relay pins on my Aquaero 6 by using the connector? Which wire goes where?
> 
> Thanks!


Better look in Aqua forums, found these:

https://forum.aquacomputer.de/weite...connecting-aquaero-6-to-psu-to-hard-turn-off/
https://forum.aquacomputer.de/weitere-foren/english-forum/105701-shutting-down-pc-with-aquaero/

But there are many other threads.

Should be Pin 1, normally connected, and Pin 3, common.


----------



## gftgy

ManniX-ITA said:


> Should be Pin 1, normally connected, and Pin 3, common.


Sorry to be so dense, but what does this mean?

In very explicit, but plain, English terms, what wires should I connect and to where?

I checked the two links you mentioned and they don't seem to explain what I'm asking. The most I can gather from both your reply and one of the threads is that I will have wires leading to the two outside pins of the relay, but I'm unsure which wires are supposed to go to which pin.


----------



## ManniX-ITA

gftgy said:


> Sorry to be so dense, but what does this mean?
> 
> In very explicit, but plain, English terms, what wires should I connect and to where?
> 
> I checked the two links you mentioned and they don't seem to explain what I'm asking. The most I can gather from both your reply and one of the threads is that I will have wires leading to the two outside pins of the relay, but I'm unsure which wires are supposed to which pin.


You have to strip down the purple wires from the 2-pin connector of "aquaero power connect - 24 pin ATX standby power / ATX break (53047)" and connect them to the "Plug for relay connector, 3 contacts (53080)".
The 2-pin connector is for the aquaero 5 standby contact.

The aquaero 6 relay plug has 3 contacts, connect the wires to those on the outside and leave the central one free.

Quite a bad job here from the Aqua team... they should have kept the same standby port on the aquaero 6 or at least provided a ready-made adapter from the standby to the relay connector.


----------



## gftgy

Purple wireS, plural? I only see one purple wire and one black wire leading into the 2-pin connector of the ATX break.

So does this purple wire from the 2-pin connector go to pin 1? Or does it go to pin 3? Where's the other purple wire you mention?

I understand that I am connecting wires to the first and third pins/contacts of the relay connector/plug, but I still do not understand:


gftgy said:


> Which wire goes where?





gftgy said:


> what wires should I connect and to where?


If you could kindly explain that in unmistakable terms for me, please.

Thank you.

EDIT: I realized a more explicit phrasing of my question: What wire am I connecting to pin 1. What wire am I connecting to pin 3?
Guess I shouldn't expect a clear answer if I'm not asking a clear question!


----------



## ManniX-ITA

gftgy said:


> Purple wireS, plural? I only see one purple wire and one black wire leading into the 2-pin connector of the ATX break.
> 
> So does this purple wire from the 2-pin connector go to pin 1? Or does it go to pin 3? Where's the other purple wire you mention?
> 
> I understand that I am connecting wires to the first and third pins/contacts of the relay connector/plug, but I still do not understand:
> 
> 
> If you could kindly explain that in unmistakable terms for me, please.
> 
> Thank you.
> 
> EDIT: I realized a more explicit phrasing of my question: What wire am I connecting to pin 1. What wire am I connecting to pin 3?
> Guess I shouldn't expect a clear answer if I'm not asking a clear question!


Sorry I had a look at the picture and had the impression they were both purple 
Took out the adapter and indeed one is black,
It doesn't really matter which one you put where, the relay will either close or open wire 1/2 with wire 3.
Just like shortening the power on pins with a screwdriver head.

For correctness put the black one on pin 3 and purple on pin 1.


----------



## war4peace

skupples said:


> no point. you want sustained flow of 1GPM+
> so really, you want you pump running as fast as you can handle listening to. always.


Pretty much this.
I've seen some amazingly uninformed posts on Facebook about low pump speed, from "it would not wear as much", "increases lifespan" and other nonsense. Well, OK, academically there could be a 5% life span improvement, _in theory_, but in practice there is no benefit. Quite the contrary, if the flow is too low you might get laminar flow in the radiators, which means faster idle temperature increase and basically playing ping-pong with pump speed. It goes low speed, temperatures rise, it goes faster speed, temperatures drop, it goes low speed again and so on, _ad nauseam_.
Set your pumps at 100% (which by the way is their _nominal_, not _maximum_ speed) and keep them there, and if there's vibration, then one needs to dampen it through other means, rather then reducing speed.


----------



## zeroibis

skupples said:


> i think you might also distort results due to having two different speed pumps running at the same time. are you shuttering one when testing the other?
> 
> draw a mental image of a faster pump pushing water into a slower pump, etc. i think the slower pump would just add restriction and not benefit flow much (yes, we know. redundancy!)



I know this is a bit old of a post but I wanted to point out that Martin tested this back in the day with a compare of the results of if you can mix different pumps in the same loop. There is no issue and you get the expected performance benefits of having an additional pump. The specs of each pump do not matter as they do not alter the formula he gives to calculate the expected increase in performance. Obviously 2 good pumps have better performance than 2 bad ones but a good pump and crappy pump are still better than a single good pump when run at the same time. He also showed how having a pump turned off in serial does not negatively impact the loop as the resistance is very low.


----------



## war4peace

314 L/h with two pumps versus 224 L/h with one, that's what I am getting.


----------



## zeroibis

ManniX-ITA said:


> I'm obsessed by these videos day-long maintenance session with waterblocks fins clogged by green spam... I'm probably stressing myself too much
> 
> Sorry for my ignorance, but what's the deal about the Mayhems fluids?
> 
> Everyone seems so much in love with them.
> But Alphacool is very strong in advising they don't cover warranty, even for Aqua products, if you use them:
> 
> *Attention: The manufacturer Mayhems advises that Mayhems fluids, especially the Aurora line of products, have been manufactured and distributed solely for show and modding purposes. These should not be used in the system for more than 14 days.
> 
> We would also like to advise that Mayhems fluids can damage water cooling products, and using Mayhems fluids can thereby void the warranties offered by the following manufacturers: Koolance, Phobya, Alphacool, Aqua Computer, Watercool.
> *
> 
> Watercool recommends to use only distilled water and citric acid...



In the past I literally ran pure Ethylene Glycol for years on end without issue. The only issue I have ever had is plasticizer gunk from tubing that I 100% avoid by using ZMT tubing on current builds. Currently I use a Mayhems concentrate with water in same loop for going on 3 years now maintenance free, my res level has dropped by about 20ml in that time. Now when you get into the dyes and all the other crazy things you may need to do a lot more work. However, if your wanting maintenance free you are going to want something other than just 100% water to get the job done.


----------



## zeroibis

chibi said:


> Thanks for the info janco! I already have an AQ6 so getting a quadro or octo seems like another expense that could be utilized elsewhere. May go with different fans instead.
> 
> Edit - looks like newer batches Noctua and EK fans are now facing this issue as well. I have a set of eLoop PWM fans and some Corsair ML's available but both make a humming noise when I close my Caselabs panels with grills.



I have had the ML hum on some fans but only after years of usage. Have yet to dig deep to identify the exact cause and correct it. Only occurs are particular RPM levels. (also on CaseLabs)


----------



## ManniX-ITA

zeroibis said:


> In the past I literally ran pure Ethylene Glycol for years on end without issue. The only issue I have ever had is plasticizer gunk from tubing that I 100% avoid by using ZMT tubing on current builds. Currently I use a Mayhems concentrate with water in same loop for going on 3 years now maintenance free, my res level has dropped by about 20ml in that time. Now when you get into the dyes and all the other crazy things you may need to do a lot more work. However, if your wanting maintenance free you are going to want something other than just 100% water to get the job done.


Wow, 3 years maintenance free is awesome.
Thanks for the feedback.


----------



## zeroibis

ManniX-ITA said:


> Wow, 3 years maintenance free is awesome.
> Thanks for the feedback.



I expect to add some coolant within the next 12 months but I have no plans to drain anything until at least 5-7 years or unless I add any new equipment to the loop.


----------



## zeroibis

WiLd FyeR said:


> Does anyone have any ideas on how to mount the Aquaero 6 in cases with no 5.25 mounts?


 https://www.overclock.net/photopost/data/1652577/9/9c/9cd29e82_IMG_20170724_172922151.jpeg


----------



## looniam

war4peace said:


> Pretty much this.
> I've seen some amazingly uninformed posts on Facebook about low pump speed, from "it would not wear as much", "increases lifespan" and other nonsense. Well, OK, academically there could be a 5% life span improvement, _in theory_, but in practice there is no benefit. Quite the contrary, if the flow is too low you might get laminar flow in the radiators, which means faster idle temperature increase and basically playing ping-pong with pump speed. It goes low speed, temperatures rise, it goes faster speed, temperatures drop, it goes low speed again and so on, _ad nauseam_.
> Set your pumps at 100% (which by the way is their _nominal_, not _maximum_ speed) and keep them there, and if there's vibration, then one needs to dampen it through other means, rather then reducing speed.


then why buy a PWM pump?

and funny i don't experience any ping pong effect. certainly not after taking a few days to tighten the fan curve:







aside from the 1GPM "standard," i suspect setting pumps speed(s) more of a personal preference. i see no need to run anything at 100% while idling for hours.


----------



## helis4life

looniam said:


> then why buy a PWM pump?
> 
> and funny i don't experience any ping pong effect. certainly not after taking a few days to tighten the fan curve:
> View attachment 351320
> 
> aside from the 1GPM "standard," i suspect setting pumps speed(s) more of a personal preference. i see no need to run anything at 100% while idling for hours.


I agree, having it running at 100% while you browse overclock.net doesnt seem necessary. I sit 1 meter from the machine, so at 100% I can hear it, at 40% i cant.


I also have never experienced any such ping pong affect. But like you said, personal preference really, no right or wrong way


----------



## valvehead

helis4life said:


> I agree, having it running at 100% while you browse overclock.net doesnt seem necessary. I sit 1 meter from the machine, so at 100% I can hear it, at 40% i cant.
> 
> 
> I also have never experienced any such ping pong affect. But like you said, personal preference really, no right or wrong way


I also use a curve controller for the pump. I chose a silent speed for the minimum, and the pump only speeds up after the fans are at a high enough level that they mask the increase in pump noise.

I use water-air delta as the controlling temp. Some people use absolute temps, but I prefer consistent noise level for a given load. I could run at lower fan and pump settings in winter, but I'm not limited by temps for stability anyway.

If you're experiencing ping pong with your pump, then either your controller is restricted to too small of a temperature range and/or you need more thermal mass (more water -> larger reservoir if necessary) to slow down the drift.


----------



## gftgy

ManniX-ITA said:


> Sorry I had a look at the picture and had the impression they were both purple
> Took out the adapter and indeed one is black,
> It doesn't really matter which one you put where, the relay will either close or open wire 1/2 with wire 3.
> Just like shortening the power on pins with a screwdriver head.
> 
> For correctness put the black one on pin 3 and purple on pin 1.


What about this green wire? Are you absolutely certain? What you've said doesn't seem to align with the threads you linked earlier.


----------



## ManniX-ITA

gftgy said:


> What about this green wire? Are you absolutely certain? What you've said doesn't seem to align with the threads you linked earlier.


Of course it doesn't sorry I didn't check properly 
Doing too much stuff in parallel...
Obviously it's the green wire as described in the threads.
You have to split the green wire.
Don't connect the purple and black, it's the Standby voltage.
Had to find out months ago how to connect it but then I didn't and meanwhile my memory faded away...


----------



## war4peace

looniam said:


> then why buy a PWM pump?


Because it offers a quick and inexpensive way to eliminate vibrations at certain speeds, and you can fine-tune it for absolute silence.
And because most pumps nowadays are PWM 



looniam said:


> aside from the 1GPM "standard," i suspect setting pumps speed(s) more of a personal preference. i see no need to run anything at 100% while idling for hours.


There is no need to run at 100%, as well as there's no need to reduce pump speed to less than that. Certainly not to "increase pump lifespan".
I was referring to people recommending lower pump speeds to "avoid damaging the pump", I have no quarrel with people setting their pump speeds for other reasons. To each their own.



valvehead said:


> I also use a curve controller for the pump. I chose a silent speed for the minimum, and the pump only speeds up after the fans are at a high enough level that they mask the increase in pump noise.


I wonder why would the pump make noise in the first place. I assume it's about how it's installed in the system.



valvehead said:


> I use water-air delta as the controlling temp. Some people use absolute temps, but I prefer consistent noise level for a given load. I could run at lower fan and pump settings in winter, but I'm not limited by temps for stability anyway.


I eliminated noise by oversizing the radiator. Fans at 400 RPM at all times, pumps at 100% (both of them), liquid temperature almost never exceeds 40 degrees Celsius except while very heavy gaming in SLI during very hot summer days, and then fans ramp up to 500-550 RPM to maintain 40 degrees Celsius liquid temperature. Right now ambient temperature is 23.7 degrees Celsius and liquid temperature is 26.8.



valvehead said:


> If you're experiencing ping pong with your pump, then either your controller is restricted to too small of a temperature range and/or you need more thermal mass (more water -> larger reservoir if necessary) to slow down the drift.


Larger reservoir? It has nothing to do with cooling, except maybe introducing some 30-second delay in liquid temperature stabilization (by the way, that delay works both ways). That is, of course, unless you have a 50L reservoir


----------



## looniam

war4peace said:


> Because it offers a quick and inexpensive way to eliminate vibrations at certain speeds, and you can fine-tune it for absolute silence.
> And because most pumps nowadays are PWM
> 
> 
> There is no need to run at 100%, as well as there's no need to reduce pump speed to less than that. Certainly not to "increase pump lifespan".
> I was referring to people recommending lower pump speeds to "avoid damaging the pump", I have no quarrel with people setting their pump speeds for other reasons. To each their own.


believe what you want but it does increase the life span and more than your underestimated 5%. that is not anything i know from reading posts in FB groups or forums like here. that is what i know from first hand experience as a machinist mate in the navy; operated/maintained/repaired close to every pump imaginable on a ship.

but you are more than welcome to disagree because really - its nothing that will harm anyone/anything anyway - any warranty is suppose to consider 100% speeds so . .

i hope we are cool with disagreeing because now i got a favor to ask:

just got a pair of the noctua 3K leaf blowers and maxing out at 2250rpm. do those require the diane mod to get 3K? i was going for the 2K but these were the same price and can live with it but . .


----------



## skupples

my MCP35x2 has been running nearly 24/7 @ 100% for nearly 10 years.

My secret? 

either the fan that blows air on it, or my obscenely clean loop + obscenely well maintained coolant.


----------



## war4peace

looniam said:


> believe what you want but it does increase the life span and more than your underestimated 5%. that is not anything i know from reading posts in FB groups or forums like here. that is what i know from first hand experience as a machinist mate in the navy; operated/maintained/repaired close to every pump imaginable on a ship.
> 
> but you are more than welcome to disagree because really - its nothing that will harm anyone/anything anyway - any warranty is suppose to consider 100% speeds so . .
> 
> i hope we are cool with disagreeing because now i got a favor to ask:
> 
> just got a pair of the noctua 3K leaf blowers and maxing out at 2250rpm. do those require the diane mod to get 3K? i was going for the 2K but these were the same price and can live with it but . .


I've heard the same argument before... someone brought (as argument) a reference to an article discussing pump wear for industrial pumps (something like 30K gallons per minute) and how that affects the impeller, etc. The article was correct. The argument wasn't, because you can't put an equal sign between an elephant and a Chihuahua, because they are both mammals and have four legs. Watercooling pumps operate differently from high volume pumps on a ship, with different wear and tear, etc.

About the fans, have you tried running them without PWM pin? Aka just connected to 12V? If they reach 3K RPM (12V, ground, RPM pin), then it's the PWM implementation stopping them from reaching 3K RPM. If they don't reach that speed, there's something off with the fans themselves.
I run 2K RPM Noctuas on my NAS in the attic, directly connected to PSU throgh a molex, with RPM pin connected to the motherboard for control and they reach 2K RPM.


----------



## gftgy

looniam said:


> believe what you want but it does increase the life span and more than your underestimated 5%. that is not anything i know from reading posts in FB groups or forums like here. that is what i know from first hand experience as a machinist mate in the navy; operated/maintained/repaired close to every pump imaginable on a ship.
> 
> but you are more than welcome to disagree because really - its nothing that will harm anyone/anything anyway - any warranty is suppose to consider 100% speeds so . .
> 
> i hope we are cool with disagreeing because now i got a favor to ask:
> 
> just got a pair of the noctua 3K leaf blowers and maxing out at 2250rpm. do those require the diane mod to get 3K? i was going for the 2K but these were the same price and can live with it but . .


I picked up 9 of those and all of them cap out at around 2800rpm on their own, but they don't have the surplus torque to maintain those speeds when faced with restrictions like filters and radiators, and a drop to 2250rpm max seems plausible with enough restriction. Have you tested them on their own?

Considering that they run on 12v, their tremendous range (~300-~2800rpm in my batch), and spectacular build quality, I'm pretty happy with them; but I'm curious about this "Diane mod" you mention.


----------



## war4peace

It's IT Diva's Mod.


----------



## looniam

war4peace said:


> I've heard the same argument before... someone brought (as argument) a reference to an article discussing pump wear for industrial pumps (something like 30K gallons per minute) and how that affects the impeller, etc. The article was correct. The argument wasn't, because you can't put an equal sign between an elephant and a Chihuahua, because they are both mammals and have four legs. Watercooling pumps operate differently from high volume pumps on a ship, with different wear and tear, etc.
> 
> About the fans, have you tried running them without PWM pin? Aka just connected to 12V? If they reach 3K RPM (12V, ground, RPM pin), then it's the PWM implementation stopping them from reaching 3K RPM. If they don't reach that speed, there's something off with the fans themselves.
> I run 2K RPM Noctuas on my NAS in the attic, directly connected to PSU throgh a molex, with RPM pin connected to the motherboard for control and they reach 2K RPM.


you read an article did you? well good for you. now try reading, practicing and being tested on:


Spoiler













if you like to do a comparison of animals then why not publications. i'd also be interested to hear how one (unknown atm) article will compare to 600 years of engineering but that would be a waste of time.

not all pumps on a ship are high volume. had you ever worked on a ship in the engineering/repair department you would know that. the navy has been liquid cooling electronics long before someone got the crazy idea with an aquarium pump. and when those systems need maintenance/repair it wouldn't be the electric techs - who just swap out pcbs or what not - but a machinist mate from engineering; thats their job rate.

pumps, motors, animals, internal combustion engines, ect. all have life expediencies that depend on how much load how often how long and under what conditions (heat, moisture). i don't know or care what the aruement on facebook was. it should stay there. because at most only getting 5% increase in a pump's life expectancy and suffering some ping pong effect is about a facebook level comment when i know and have experienced other.

if you want to point out that it is really unnecessary, that pumps already last for years - like skup inferred - i'm all with you, marching in the parade, even blocking traffic. but when i see stuff i know you don't know and is not correct; you can argue with yourself with more justifying babble.

and yeah, thanks for the suggests, i had gone through aquasuite and checked everything tried adjustments. then it occurred to me its a recent issue i forgot about using extensions that i have a mile of. as soon as i connected one directly to a fan header - 2780+rpms.

i live with it until i swap things around when i replace all the soft tubes clean flush blocks and rads in a few months. but i am happy enough with 2450rpms since i only got the 3K since same price as the 2K fans.


----------



## skupples

btw - my MCP35x2 has just now started to slow down @ max RPM... i just haven't had time to see if its from impeller wear. I figure they're quite warn down from all the years of draining/filling cavitation.

looks like I got it just over 8 years ago now. 

one thing to note - I've allowed it to run @ full blast with only one block & 3 rads in my system for the last 6 months, which we know is bad for DDCs. my flow was originally like 350+ in this config, now its like 290.


----------



## ManniX-ITA

@looniam
I'm impressed, I guess we are all impressed here. Seems you have more knowledge and experience than everyone else here.
But... do you care to share a bit of it?

So far I only understood running a pump always 100% wears it more than 5%.
What do you recommend? Running it as much as possible at low speed?
Better fixed speeds or variable with a curve/setpoint? What about delta between speeds?
Should we never push it at 100%, better keep it at 70-80% max?
Any other tips for maintenance or design of the loop?
What else?

Now we have expectations after this stunt 

I'd be nice if you could tell us what's relevant.
I could read that manual but I'm probably not going to understand half of it...


----------



## war4peace

I admit I happen to know a thing or two about how certain types of pumps work, but I also admit I am not an expert, always willing to learn some more, so please by all means please explain us in more detail how should we run our watercooling pumps. D5 and DDC specifically, of course. Because your book talks about centrifugal pumps with wearing rings, and watercooling pumps have magnetic spherical motors without wearing rings. 
(BTW if someone would like to have a link to the book mentioned above, which is a 2003 release, *click here*.)

Here's what I found in the referred manual (page 3-9):



> Most turbines, including all main turbines, have a radial bearing at each end of the rotor. These bearings are generally known as JOURNAL BEARINGS and may be either the sleeve type or the tilting-pad type. Each type may be either cylindrical seated or spherical seated. *Except for the momentary metal-to-metal contact at the time the turbine is started, the two metal surfaces of the journal and bearing are constantly separated by a film of oil.*


In watercooling spherical pumps, the same principle is applied, except instead of the film of oil, the separator is the watercooling liquid itself. Another quote from the same manual, page 3-11:


> *With proper clearances and proper lubrication, bearings will last for many years.*


 @looniam, could you please elaborate? Maybe I am missing something.


----------



## GTXJackBauer

skupples said:


> btw - my MCP35x2 has just now started to slow down @ max RPM... i just haven't had time to see if its from impeller wear. I figure they're quite warn down from all the years of draining/filling cavitation.
> 
> looks like I got it just over 8 years ago now.
> 
> one thing to note - I've allowed it to run @ full blast with only one block & 3 rads in my system for the last 6 months, which we know is bad for DDCs. my flow was originally like 350+ in this config, now its like 290.


That's where DDCs shine over D5s. DDCs are known to have higher head pressure to push through things.

My dual DDC MCP35X's in serial (MCP35X2) ran slower than my current EK dual D5s (Revo Dual D5 PWM) in serial.

Unfortunately one of the DDCs didn't last as long as the other, hense the change to D5s but did have at least 5 years under its belt while running 24/7, iirc.


----------



## farpetrad

I just upgraded aquasuite last night and noticed some odd things going on with sensor readings, not sure whats going on. If I try to use the CPU average for my TR it displays the crazy number always. Clearly its never hit those values as I think at 7million F the world would melt lol. HWInfo has no problem showing the correct values.


----------



## looniam

ManniX-ITA said:


> @looniam
> I'm impressed, I guess we are all impressed here. Seems you have more knowledge and experience than everyone else here.
> But... do you care to share a bit of it?
> 
> 
> Spoiler
> 
> 
> 
> So far I only understood running a pump always 100% wears it more than 5%.
> What do you recommend? Running it as much as possible at low speed?
> Better fixed speeds or variable with a curve/setpoint? What about delta between speeds?
> Should we never push it at 100%, better keep it at 70-80% max?
> Any other tips for maintenance or design of the loop?
> What else?
> 
> 
> Now we have expectations after this stunt
> 
> I'd be nice if you could tell us what's relevant.
> I could read that manual but I'm probably not going to understand half of it...


you have miss my point so i am sorry i will not reach your or anyone's level of expectations. i am not the one trying to tell people how to run their pumps. btw it wasn't 5% at 100% speed but _5% life expectancy increase at most._ that along with the ping/pong effect (which a few people chimed in to say thats false) is what i have taken issues with. and i have not meant or intended to say i know more than everyone, if i did say that, please point it out so i can amend that post, thanks. i however i am sure i know more than who i have replied to previously on this subject.

but to answer your (borderline pandering) questions:
what people should do is what works best for them. because the work needed from the pump will be different depending on the loop. ie a simple pump/res with one block and rad will be different than pump, distro plate with 3 or more blocks; esp if one is a monoblock.



war4peace said:


> I admit I happen to know a thing or two about how certain types of pumps work, but I also admit I am not an expert, always willing to learn some more, so please by all means please explain us in more detail how should we run our watercooling pumps. D5 and DDC specifically, of course. Because your book talks about centrifugal pumps with wearing rings, and watercooling pumps have magnetic spherical motors without wearing rings.
> (BTW if someone would like to have a link to the book mentioned above, which is a 2003 release, *click here*.)
> 
> Here's what I found in the referred manual (page 3-9):
> 
> In watercooling spherical pumps, the same principle is applied, except instead of the film of oil, the separator is the watercooling liquid itself. Another quote from the same manual, page 3-11:
> @looniam, could you please elaborate? Maybe I am missing something.


whats there to know about pumps?
they suck! 

yeah what your missing is using an example of a high volume pump when i thought we both agreed those aren't relevant, so why quote sections for those? now the thing is and what might help you is i provided a training manual to quote:


> now try reading, practicing and being tested on:


you're not going to get it just reading which is only part of it, there is also the PMS (preventative maintained system) and PQS (personal qualification standards) both of which are mentioned if you read instead of gleaming.
all manufacturer's tech manuals are kept in the tool shack(s) however (most) every piece of equipment has a PMS book/manual (thats waterproof!) near/next to it. it will have step by step instruction not only for how often and how to perform the required maintenance but also step by step instructions for if that piece or any other part of the system (if relevant) fails.

the personal qualification standards is a pocket sized book that each sailor carries with them to get signed off for their specific duties. ie a MM (mach mate) in engineering would have some different equipment in the fire/engine room than a mm in repair; which would include all equipment throughout the ship. the booklet is loaded with dozens to hundreds of questions pertaining to each piece of equipment and step in the PMS manual. each question needs to be signed off 2-5 times by a qualified petty officer. once you complete the book it then gets documented in your navy file so you can then

every six months there is a navy wide exam that does cover the training manual but you must have completed your PQS book (aside from the firefighting and damage control qualifications that are ship wide) pass the navy wide exam in the upper 15% and you have a good chance of being promoted provided there is an open billet.

btw, there is a a minimum of 1 year at best this will take; that is if your recruiter "gave" you E-3 instead of an E-1 paygrade in bootcamp. for most all its a 2 to 2.5 year process. i don't know whether to be humored or offended that you can compare that to with only a few minutes (or maybe an hour) of reading the table of contents and some skimming. 

ok, now that i am done sounding like a navy recruiter. but it seems i need to over-explain/be more detailed in everything.

but hold up there a second, where is your proof? not to be a stickler but isn't there some form to follow?

1. you make a statement
2. i dispute the statement
3. you provide your source
4. i provide my source


we seemed to have skipped a step.



> I've heard the same argument before... someone brought (as argument)* a reference to an article discussing pump wear for industrial pumps (something like 30K gallons per minute) *and how that affects the impeller, etc. The article was correct.


ya know i just caught that those industrial pumps must be different that the high volume pumps in the navy training manual i referenced. so, where is this article?

i am extremely curious myself like, how are industrial pumps that were tested different than the high volume that are on a ship? how did they test it? *and most importantly WHO did the testing?* was it done by a third party laboratory such as ASTM (american society for testing materials) or someone the pump manufacturer hired? who and where was it published?

if you want me to believe what you say then back it up with more than some rant about facebook. like i am asking, where is this article?

i sincerely doubt it has anything that will conflict with what i have known/experienced myself. so unless you have it (and then there is the question of why those industrial pumps are fine for that but not the one in a navy manual) there is nothing more to discuss.


Edit:
fwiw i have mentions, quotes, subscriptions and PMs turn off.


----------



## ManniX-ITA

looniam said:


> you have miss my point so i am sorry i will not reach your or anyone's level of expectations. i am not the one trying to tell people how to run their pumps. btw it wasn't 5% at 100% speed but _5% life expectancy increase at most._ that along with the ping/pong effect (which a few people chimed in to say thats false) is what i have taken issues with. and i have not meant or intended to say i know more than everyone, if i did say that, please point it out so i can amend that post, thanks. i however i am sure i know more than who i have replied to previously on this subject.
> 
> but to answer your (borderline pandering) questions:
> what people should do is what works best for them. because the work needed from the pump will be different depending on the loop. ie a simple pump/res with one block and rad will be different than pump, distro plate with 3 or more blocks; esp if one is a monoblock.
> ...


Maybe you missed my point... I'd LOVE if someone would tell me how to run my pumps 
You didn't tell explicitly you know more, I meant considering your background and knowledge, you probably know better than most!
Almost all the knowledge here and elsewhere is based on the experience of IT people, not sailors.

I'm borderline illiterate on water cooling in general.
If you can share some thoughts on the matter I'd seriously appreciate.
Maybe for you are just obvious like breathing air but for me would be like Santa's delivering on Christmas' eve.

You say I should do what works best for my loop. Well, I have no idea... till now I thought running the pump at 100% would be just fine.
I can desume you mean with a simple loop the pump should run at low speed, while at higher speed if it's more restrictive... is that right?
But of course is up to your willingness to share, if you have better things to do no worries, I understand!


----------



## war4peace

ManniX-ITA said:


> You say I should do what works best for my loop. Well, I have no idea... till now I thought running the pump at 100% would be just fine.
> I can desume you mean with a simple loop the pump should run at low speed, while at higher speed if it's more restrictive... is that right?
> But of course is up to your willingness to share, if you have better things to do no worries, I understand!


Running the pump at 100% _will be fine_. Nothing will break sooner than if running it at 70% or 50% or whatever other speed.
Testing and benchmarking have shown that liquid flows around 1gpm (3.7L/min, 222L/h) are optimal for cooling. That's the very basic rule of thumb. Over 1gpm is no problem but the faster it goes, the less the advantages are (diminishing returns). That means 2gpm will not cool twice as well as 1gpm, etc.
Now, of course there are multiple factors involved, but we can simplify by saying that when all other things are equal (same loop, same radiators, same fan speeds, etc), higher flows are better than lower flows.
There's been the argument that if your machine is idling, there's no point for your pump to run at 100% speed. Fair enough, however there's also no point in _not_ running it at 100% either. Power consumption difference is minimal, life span is not increased by any meaningful amount (spherical motors have excellent life spans because moving parts are separated by a layer of liquid), and noise can be mitigated through properly installing the pump in the loop. The only reason to run the pump at low(er) speeds is subjective and it's called "peace of mind".
Personally, I have achieved peace of mind by having two pumps in an EKWB volute, running in series, if one breaks (however unlikely), the other one keeps going. They cool a loop which has two GPUs, a monoblock (all in parallel) and a MoRa 420 radiator. I had been planning on upgrading to an Eheim 1262 just for kicks, but I will delay that plan because I am focusing on other things right now (3D design and printing) and that was expensive enough 
(teaser: 3D printed hard tubing FTW!)

I know the owners of a local watercooling components store, and asked them how many pumps did they receive as RMAs, also how many of those were RMAs due to wear, rather than something else. None were RMA due to wear, most were RMA due to electronics issues, a couple were leaking and some others were damaged by improper loop maintenance (growth, bad liquid, etc). 

As for my proof, it's actually a lack of proof saying otherwise. I have no knowledge of a pump which stopped working because of wear, unless we count those which were badly maintained (as in "not maintained at all") or those which ran dry at some point (never run a pump dry!).


----------



## skupples

"should"

you should seek to maintain at least 1GPM... otherwise, everything else is pretty much subjective/personal/aesthetic.

My favorite kind of colleague is the one who's super forcefully well spoken, and ALWAYS agreeing with the boss in the meetings, but yet DOES ABSOLUTELY NOTHING TO ACTUALLY DO ANY OF THE THINGS HE'S AGREEING WITH BEING GOOD IDEAS/STRATEGIES.


----------



## Shawnb99

I run my pumps at 36% any faster and they can be heard over my sub 500rpm fans


----------



## broodro0ster

I using a 2 step controller for my PWM pumps. This is to eliminate the ping pong effect that you get if you use a curve.
But for a 2 step controller you need 2 water sensors. One on the radiator inlet and one on the outlet. 

I run my pumps at 1800rpm during idle and 4200rpm during load. Basically when the difference between the cool and hot coolant in my loop is bigger than 2°C, the pump ramp up to 42000rpm. Once the deta between the hot and cold side of the coolant drops under 0,4°C, then they go back to 1800rpm.

It's takes about 150W of heat generation to trigger the switch trigger them to the high state and it drops back to the low state when there is last than 40W of heat being generated. So once the pump start spinning fast, they don't drop down unless I'm going to really idle. This is a very pleasant way to use my computer. It's dead quiet at idle (when browsing, youtube, ...). But as soon as I start playing a game or do a render, the pumps jumps up and stays there until I'm finished.


----------



## zeroibis

skupples said:


> my MCP35x2 has been running nearly 24/7 @ 100% for nearly 10 years.
> 
> My secret?
> 
> either the fan that blows air on it, or my obscenely clean loop + obscenely well maintained coolant.



The only pump failures I have ever had were with those and the only thing that failed was the board after many years. When I added that heat sink upgrade I never had another failure.


----------



## war4peace

Heat dissipation as measured in Aquasuite heavily depends on radiator size and flow. My reported heat dissipation is between 280 and 320 Watts during normal use, with Delta between sensors at 0.7-0.8 degrees Celsius. During heavy loads, dissipated heat jumps over 1000W.


----------



## broodro0ster

war4peace said:


> Heat dissipation as measured in Aquasuite heavily depends on radiator size and flow. My reported heat dissipation is between 280 and 320 Watts during normal use, with Delta between sensors at 0.7-0.8 degrees Celsius. During heavy loads, dissipated heat jumps over 1000W.


Define normal workloads 
But for idling, that's too high. You can calibrate the sensors to get more accurate values, but in the end it's doesn't really matter if it's 200W or 2000W. As long as you setup a lower and upper value for the 2 step controller that suits you're setup, you're fine.


----------



## war4peace

broodro0ster said:


> Define normal workloads
> But for idling, that's too high.


No, it's not. The liquid takes almost 13 seconds to move through my huge radiator at 5.2L/minute flow rate. Fans are at 400 RPM. If I ramp up my fans, the heat dissipation will go down by a lot (the delta between IN and OUT for radiator will be smaller).
There's always been the confusion between dissipated heat and power usage. The formula calculates dissipated heat, it's not at all the same thing as how much power your PC uses. You said "heat generated" but it's actually "heat being dissipated" - there's a difference.

Normal workload is close to idling, CPU is between 5% and 10% usage and GPUs are at about the same load (SLI). Some music running in the background, a VM with Windows 10 (work environment, using web apps so the biggest consumer is the browser), another browser opened on the host machine, and a buttload of secondary software which does mostly nothing.

I assume you have a 280 or 360mm radiator? Or more but with higher fan speeds?


----------



## skupples

zeroibis said:


> The only pump failures I have ever had were with those and the only thing that failed was the board after many years. When I added that heat sink upgrade I never had another failure.


I've definitely lost some speed in the last few months while letting it run in a no-restriction loop. i just haven't taken them apart to see if its impellar damage, or if something on the board is starting to fry.

still reads same RPMS & same volts though.


----------



## Shawnb99

I've never kept track of my RPMS so i'll likely never notice if they drop. At 36% one pair is running 2225/2279rpms and the other are 2225/2269rpms for a nice flow rate of 0.8GPM. Any higher and I can start to hear the pumps, damn suckers can be annoying


----------



## broodro0ster

war4peace said:


> No, it's not. The liquid takes almost 13 seconds to move through my huge radiator at 5.2L/minute flow rate. Fans are at 400 RPM. If I ramp up my fans, the heat dissipation will go down by a lot (the delta between IN and OUT for radiator will be smaller).
> There's always been the confusion between dissipated heat and power usage. The formula calculates dissipated heat, it's not at all the same thing as how much power your PC uses. You said "heat generated" but it's actually "heat being dissipated" - there's a difference.
> 
> Normal workload is close to idling, CPU is between 5% and 10% usage and GPUs are at about the same load (SLI). Some music running in the background, a VM with Windows 10 (work environment, using web apps so the biggest consumer is the browser), another browser opened on the host machine, and a buttload of secondary software which does mostly nothing.
> 
> I assume you have a 280 or 360mm radiator? Or more but with higher fan speeds?


Yes, heat dissipated is also right. I measure before and after my components, but at the same time it's also before and after my rads.
So the heat that's dumped in the loop, will also be dissipated by the radiators (if you reached equilibrium)

But 0,8° temp raise is OK I guess with the stuff that you're doing. That's will consume a bit more power than just idling with a OCN in a browser open ;-) And this also depends on pump speed and fan speed. I'm having 2x 360 rads, normal CPU/single GPU so I'm lower values than you with the pump at 4200rpm. At lower pump speeds, I'm in the same region.

But it doesn't matter so much what your values are to use the 2 step controller (delta's between cold and hot water). Just need to find the right values for your setup and it should work, but it requires some testing and finetuning/trial error.


----------



## war4peace

I found the best solution for my setup was to leave the pumps at 100% and add a set point controller monitoring RAD IN temperature and slowly increasing fan speeds if the target temperature exceeds 40 degrees Celsius. This only happens during very hot summer days with no AC and both GPUs used at maximum for extended periods of time, where fan speeds reach a maximum of 550 RPM if I remember correctly. We had planned to install ACs but we decided on buying a large-ish 3D Printer instead


----------



## skupples

hmm... i just realized Splity9 doesn't have any sort of external powering. luckily i'm only running 32 AP15s. Anyone think I'll have issues running 16 on each splitty? bet it'll be fine. many of my AP15s are actually 14s -.- (no, i don't wanna do basic math) 

guess the worst case scenario is I gotta jump to octos, or back to modmytoys PCBs =\


----------



## Shawnb99

skupples said:


> hmm... i just realized Splity9 doesn't have any sort of external powering. luckily i'm only running 32 AP15s. Anyone think I'll have issues running 16 on each splitty? bet it'll be fine. many of my AP15s are actually 14s -.- (no, i don't wanna do basic math)
> 
> guess the worst case scenario is I gotta jump to octos, or back to modmytoys PCBs =\


I'm running 16 NF-A12x25 PWM off one. Amount on the splitty doesn't matter it's what the channel of the Aquero or Quadro can do.


----------



## broodro0ster

skupples said:


> hmm... i just realized Splity9 doesn't have any sort of external powering. luckily i'm only running 32 AP15s. Anyone think I'll have issues running 16 on each splitty? bet it'll be fine. many of my AP15s are actually 14s -.- (no, i don't wanna do basic math)
> 
> guess the worst case scenario is I gotta jump to octos, or back to modmytoys PCBs =\


Or active Splitty 9's? 
https://shop.aquacomputer.de/product_info.php?language=en&products_id=3830

But basically, you could also make the normal splitty 9 active if it's for PWM fans. Just remove the positive and negative power wires out of the plug that attaches to the Aquaero and hook it up to a 12V molex (or any other 12V connector)

This is how the PWM D5 pumps work. 12V direct from the PSU and the RPM and PWM wire go into the controller (mobo or Aquaero)


----------



## skupples

Shawnb99 said:


> I'm running 16 NF-A12x25 PWM off one. Amount on the splitty doesn't matter it's what the channel of the Aquero or Quadro can do.


yeah i know, I've just pretty much ALWAYS provided my fans & pumps external power. My last fan hubs are SATA powered, but I could never actually gain control over them. I know it shouldn't matter, but they use these weird 2pin cables for rpm/tach. 

i'm hoping to have her filled up by later afternoon. My boss is awesome, got me back on COVID flex shift & finally sealed the deal for my move to salary + upward adjustment. All I had to do was take a few days off last/this week    


broodro0ster said:


> Or active Splitty 9's?
> https://shop.aquacomputer.de/product_info.php?language=en&products_id=3830
> 
> But basically, you could also make the normal splitty 9 active if it's for PWM fans. Just remove the positive and negative power wires out of the plug that attaches to the Aquaero and hook it up to a 12V molex (or any other 12V connector)
> 
> This is how the PWM D5 pumps work. 12V direct from the PSU and the RPM and PWM wire go into the controller (mobo or Aquaero)


hey look! we call them Divadapters around here  

I might have to get just one of those & bridge all my fans down to one header


----------



## broodro0ster

skupples said:


> yeah i know, I've just pretty much ALWAYS provided my fans & pumps external power. My last fan hubs are SATA powered, but I could never actually gain control over them. I know it shouldn't matter, but they use these weird 2pin cables for rpm/tach.
> 
> i'm hoping to have her filled up by later afternoon. My boss is awesome, got me back on COVID flex shift & finally sealed the deal for my move to salary + upward adjustment. All I had to do was take a few days off last/this week
> 
> 
> hey look! we call them Divadapters around here
> 
> I might have to get just one of those & bridge all my fans down to one header


Not sure what you mean by divadapter (maybe my English is not good enough) but I guess you found a possible solution?


----------



## Shawnb99

broodro0ster said:


> Not sure what you mean by divadapter (maybe my English is not good enough) but I guess you found a possible solution?



User by the name Lady Diva was one of the first to make adapters to power the fans separate from the PWM control. Hence they are called divadapter in their honour


----------



## broodro0ster

Shawnb99 said:


> User by the name Lady Diva was one of the first to make adapters to power the fans separate from the PWM control. Hence they are called divadapter in their honour


Ah, that clears it up


----------



## skupples

yep, our glorious OP is one monster of an engineer. so she designed her own board to deal with the PWM range shortfalls in aquero's implementation.


----------



## iamjanco

skupples said:


> yep, our glorious OP is one monster of an engineer. so she designed her own board *to deal with the PWM range shortfalls in aquero's implementation*.



Actually, Darlene (IT Diva) designed the "Diva Adapter" to deal with PWM controlled devices like fans and pumps that don't meet the *PWM specification*, specifically the PWM signal's 5V level requirement.

For instance, from that linked spec:









While there's nothing wrong with the Aquero's PWM implementation per se, AquaComputer incorporated PWM pullup circuity into a few of their newer devices like the Quadro and splitty9 Active for use where fans and pumps lack sufficient PWM signal pull up to that 5V level.

Just an fyi for those who might be interested.

*Additional references:*

*Noctua PWM specifications white paper*
*What is PWM and How Does it Work?*
*What is a Pulse Width Modulation (PWM) Signal and What is it Used For?*
*4 Wire PC Fan*


----------



## skupples

tomato tomato.

PWM has a "wide" implementation range, and aquaero doesn't cover all of it.


----------



## iamjanco

There's nothing wide about the spec; but for the sake of avoiding any argument...


----------



## skupples

the point is -

if your PWM fans aren't working right(noctuas were some of the first we noticed?), it's not Aquacomputer's fault, and this now exists to help bridge the gap.


----------



## iamjanco

Agreed


----------



## skupples

<3 it.

Kinda seems like taking PTO Friday & Monday helped assist in them hearing my demands on continuing my flex shift + moving to salary + some.   

the CTO tried recalling all IT staff two weeks ago, after having a hissy fit about no one being available to assist him THE ONE TIME he was here last month. We're all available, just gotta pick up a phone. Oh, you wanted someone to move furniture? drastically outside of my pay grade.


----------



## iamjanco

Wouldn't know, I'm a freelancer with bennies  A well paid free lancer, mind you (but I do psychoanalysis for free)


----------



## skupples

i'll be there some day soon. I intend for this to be the last corporate gig.


----------



## GTXJackBauer

iamjanco said:


> Actually, Darlene (IT Diva) designed the "Diva Adapter" to deal with PWM controlled devices like fans and pumps that don't meet the *PWM specification*, specifically the PWM signal's 5V level requirement.
> 
> For instance, from that linked spec:
> 
> View attachment 354572
> 
> 
> While there's nothing wrong with the Aquero's PWM implementation per se, AquaComputer incorporated PWM pullup circuity into a few of their newer devices like the Quadro and splitty9 Active for use where fans and pumps lack sufficient PWM signal pull up to that 5V level.
> 
> Just an fyi for those who might be interested.
> 
> *Additional references:*
> 
> *Noctua PWM specifications white paper*
> *What is PWM and How Does it Work?*
> *What is a Pulse Width Modulation (PWM) Signal and What is it Used For?*
> *4 Wire PC Fan*





skupples said:


> the point is -
> 
> if your PWM fans aren't working right(noctuas were some of the first we noticed?), it's not Aquacomputer's fault, and this now exists to help bridge the gap.





iamjanco said:


> Agreed


+1 All around.



iamjanco said:


> Wouldn't know, I'm a freelancer with bennies  A well paid free lancer, mind you (but I do psychoanalysis for free)


Don't mind me asking but what's that?


----------



## iamjanco

GTXJackBauer said:


> Don't mind me asking but what's that?


Jack, are you asking about what sort of work I do, what sort of person I am, both, or none of the above?


----------



## skupples

has anyone had Splitty9 QC issues? solder points look fine, it's kinda weird. 

Tested this unit across all 4 headers, with 2 different cables. no RPMs, power passes though.  

got the BP ones working at least.


----------



## GTXJackBauer

iamjanco said:


> Jack, are you asking about what sort of work I do, what sort of person I am, both, or none of the above?


Not sure if I want an answer anymore.


----------



## iamjanco

skupples said:


> has anyone had Splitty9 QC issues? solder points look fine, it's kinda weird.
> 
> Tested this unit across all 4 headers, with 2 different cables. no RPMs, power passes though.
> 
> got the BP ones working at least.


You've probably checked them, but figured I'd ask: jumper setting?


----------



## skupples

iamjanco said:


> You've probably checked them, but figured I'd ask: jumper setting?


yeah, i saw that and was like OH DUUUUUH! 

but it didn't fix anything. I'm gonna look into it more this evening. I switched it without actually looking to see what the correct orientation is across the 3x pins. 

good news is, everything is on, and addressable for the first time in over a year.

that combined with my home-brew radiator & pump decoupling = so much better sound.

BEST PART! I forgot Gentle Typhoons could spin down to ~250rpm.

anyone have an extra 2080ti block sitting around?

only real "issue' is I can't re-install the bottom chamber floor plate on the STH10, as the (not at all) easiest plumbing route used two side ports on the twin SR2s in the bottom.

I totally wanna pico my system so I can run 5x 480s .

would that even be plausible, or would you have to Add2PSU the PICOs to get enough power.


----------



## Shawnb99

skupples said:


> only real "issue' is I can't re-install the bottom chamber floor plate on the STH10, as the (not at all) easiest plumbing route used two side ports on the twin SR2s in the bottom.


Yeah routing tubing from the bottom chamber can be a total pain. At least you're able to take the whole floor plate off, I'm stuck having to use a fan hole as I can't really take off the bottom of my case. It's even more of a pain if I have to take it apart.


----------



## skupples

idk if I could even fit 1 in front and 2 in the bottom without that access.


----------



## Shawnb99

Instead of the removable bottom I just have fan holes for mounting a 480. It's easier since I don't need a mount to put a radiator there but otherwise it's a total pain to access the pedestal when it's all together. With the radiators mounted in the pedestal they are wide enough that reaching down to the pedestal is a few inches of space, though I an using 60mm radiators with fans in push so that loses me at least 3cm. Still it wasn't a great design choice. That and not going full flex bays for both sides of the magnum line are at least 2 things I'd change about the case


----------



## skupples

woot not DOA. 

the jumper itself is flaky. seems the contacts inside are kinda bunk.


----------



## iamjanco

skupples said:


> woot not DOA.
> 
> the jumper itself is flaky. seems the contacts inside are kinda bunk.


You might be able to tension them up a bit by bending the mating pins slightly. Cleaning them with some alcohol probably wouldn't hurt as well.


----------



## skupples

yeah, the jumper is sitting in some 99% right now, n i'll ever so slightly bend the prongs away from each other if that doesn't do the trick. (like jail bars)

or just wrap a single strand of copper around them?

jumpers mostly went away as a real thing (aside from bios switching) by the time I was elbow deep into this kinda stuff. Seems I should be able to rig it up though, right? it's just forming a short?


----------



## iamjanco

skupples said:


> yeah, the jumper is sitting in some 99% right now, n i'll ever so slightly bend the prongs away from each other if that doesn't do the trick. (like jail bars)
> 
> or just wrap a single strand of copper around them?
> 
> jumpers mostly went away as a real thing (aside from bios switching) by the time I was elbow deep into this kinda stuff. Seems I should be able to rig it up though, right? *it's just forming a short?*


Correct. Just make sure you short the right pins and avoid any that shouldn't be shorted.


----------



## skupples

thx for confirming. seems logical.


----------



## Mxj1

I just installed my aquaero 6lt and am getting accustomed to it.

I'm wondering if anyone here can help me use my D5 Next to display the flow data that's inputted into the aquaero, through the aquasuite software.

I've got the D5 Next, the high flow aquacomputer flow sensor connected to the flow port of the aquaero (and it reads accurately in aquasuite), but want to get this to display on the d5 next lcd. Anyone here know how to do that?


----------



## InfoSeeker

I do not have a D5 Next, but there is a similarity between aquacomputer's devices.

Select the D5 Next tab in the aquauite
There should be a 'sensors' tab
Click on one of the 'Soft.Sensors'
Click on the '+' to select a source and navigate to the aquaero section
Select the 'Flow Sensor' as your source

The D5 Next should have the flow sensor available to it now.


----------



## Mxj1

InfoSeeker said:


> I do not have a D5 Next, but there is a similarity between aquacomputer's devices.
> 
> Select the D5 Next tab in the aquauite
> There should be a 'sensors' tab
> Click on one of the 'Soft.Sensors'
> Click on the '+' to select a source and navigate to the aquaero section
> Select the 'Flow Sensor' as your source
> 
> The D5 Next should have the flow sensor available to it now.


Thanks - sorry I forgot to mention that I was able to do that previously. I've got the flow visible in the D5 Next page as software sensor 1, and the value corresponds correctly, but I would like to figure out how to display that data in the d5 next screen. There doesn't seem to be an option to do so in the display page.

Perhaps I can change it to display the virtual sensor, but I'd prefer the accuracy of the high flow sensor.


----------



## InfoSeeker

Mxj1 said:


> Thanks - sorry I forgot to mention that I was able to do that previously. I've got the flow visible in the D5 Next page as software sensor 1, and the value corresponds correctly, but I would like to figure out how to display that data in the d5 next screen. There doesn't seem to be an option to do so in the display page.
> 
> Perhaps I can change it to display the virtual sensor, but I'd prefer the accuracy of the high flow sensor.



If that display list is all that can be used for displays, then perhaps to contact aquacomputer support, and see if they will consider adding an imported value as a display option. I believe that would be a natural thing to include.

Though I am enamored with the Fan & Pump 'putput' options... just sounds interesting.


----------



## skupples

well, I was finally able to get RPM off of the Bitspower hubs, but no control.

so more splitty's OTW 

also, for anyone still using the old school High Flow sensor with the large 3 pin. Hot Glue FTW.


----------



## Mxj1

InfoSeeker said:


> If that display list is all that can be used for displays, then perhaps to contact aquacomputer support, and see if they will consider adding an imported value as a display option. I believe that would be a natural thing to include.
> 
> Though I am enamored with the Fan & Pump 'putput' options... just sounds interesting.


I saw that too. Figured someone fat fingered that.


----------



## StirFryOmelet

*A6 In Cramped Quarters?*

Hello all!

Creating my first custom loop and wanted to do it right, so I invested in an A6 LT + back plate. Can't wait to put 'em to use! 

Does anyone have experience with situating the A6 in areas with limited space? Could use a bit of advice if anyone cares to share.

My case is actually sizable overall but less so on the back side, where I would like to conceal the Aquero. Once cables are added it is just a bit too bulky.

My first thought is: I have zero plans to ever use a screen with it--so, is it safe to just snip off the pins for that and remove the stand-offs? I think that would get it down the profile I would need to fit.

Or are there other, more clever tricks I'm not thinking of in my noob frenzy?

--J


----------



## Mxj1

StirFryOmelet said:


> Hello all!
> 
> Creating my first custom loop and wanted to do it right, so I invested in an A6 LT + back plate. Can't wait to put 'em to use!
> 
> Does anyone have experience with situating the A6 in areas with limited space? Could use a bit of advice if anyone cares to share.
> 
> My case is actually sizable overall but less so on the back side, where I would like to conceal the Aquero. Once cables are added it is just a bit too bulky.
> 
> My first thought is: I have zero plans to ever use a screen with it--so, is it safe to just snip off the pins for that and remove the stand-offs? I think that would get it down the profile I would need to fit.
> 
> Or are there other, more clever tricks I'm not thinking of in my noob frenzy?
> 
> --J


I would be apprehensive about cutting the LCD terminal off. I mounted mine to the back of the motherboard tray.


----------



## skupples

he has the LT, which I believe is the screenless model. 

you can definitely take the stand offs off, if you don't think you can utilize them in your hiding it away. 

only other option really is some sorta adhesive strip, or just tucking it somewhere.


----------



## StirFryOmelet

skupples said:


> he has the LT, which I believe is the screenless model.
> 
> you can definitely take the stand offs off, if you don't think you can utilize them in your hiding it away.
> 
> only other option really is some sorta adhesive strip, or just tucking it somewhere.


Indeed, I have the screen-less model. But there are pins for a screen, and my primary concern is if cutting those down to almost nothing would cause any kind of electrical or other problem (aside from never having the option of a screen going forward haha). I suspect not, but it never hurts to get confirmation.

Yes, once I have reduced the profile thusly, I would stick it in place with an adhesive strip of some kind.


----------



## GTXJackBauer

StirFryOmelet said:


> Indeed, I have the screen-less model. But there are pins for a screen, and my primary concern is if cutting those down to almost nothing would cause any kind of electrical or other problem (aside from never having the option of a screen going forward haha). I suspect not, but it never hurts to get confirmation.
> 
> Yes, once I have reduced the profile thusly, I would stick it in place with an adhesive strip of some kind.


Sure you could but you'd most likely throw away your warranty. 

Shouldn't be an electrical issue if you were genius enough to power it on while doing the mod.  

I would also just to be on the extra precaution side, contact AC and see what they say.


----------



## Moose-Tech

I am just glad to see this available as an option for both enthusiasts and budget minded custom loop builders. System builders can now have significant and efficient control over a custom loop with fan controllers costing under $60. 

Paired with entry level kits, budget minded beginners and enthusiasts could put together a decent system for around $500 (depending on GPU block prices). 
Plus you could always buy used on ebay. I saved a ton of money that way.

When more people have invested in custom water cooling, it tells manufacturers that there is a bigger market share available, so they will offer a better selection/price for all us in the WC community. 
Win/win.

As far as the playground goes, well I think I need to spend a little more time playing in there just to see what I can do...


----------



## skupples

Octo + aqua suite = why buy anything else? Commander, iCue, etc. 

Aqua suite by aqua computer is the GOAT.


----------



## 414347

skupples said:


> Octo + aqua suite = why buy anything else? Commander, iCue, etc.
> 
> Aqua suite by aqua computer is the GOAT.


Not if they keep messing things the way they do. Lately, they take 1 step forward and 2 backwards, they fix one thing and brake something else 

But all-in All aquasuite with AQ devices work OK


----------



## InfoSeeker

skupples said:


> Octo + aqua suite = why buy anything else? Commander, iCue, etc.
> 
> Aqua suite by aqua computer is the GOAT.



True that!

But I would like to see the OCTO get a second flow sensor port for those who run dual loop.


----------



## Shawnb99

InfoSeeker said:


> True that!
> 
> But I would like to see the OCTO get a second flow sensor port for those who run dual loop.



Buy a Quadro as well then. Or better yet don’t waste your money going dual loop when it offers little to no benefit.


----------



## iamjanco

This is in reference to the following older post in Aquacomputer's support forum: 

*4x Calitetemp on Aquabus: How to tell which sensor is which?*

My interest here is specifically changing the oem nut-plates in the Aquaero's bracket to allow for enough clearance to safely use all four headers on the *Aquabus x4 daughter board*. I'll be drilling out the oem nut-plates and attempting to replace them with *Pemsert nut-plates*. For the life of me the only reason I can see why Aquacomputer hasn't already done that is because of the logistical nightmare it might create given how many Aquaeros are currently in use and/or already stocked and accompanied by the original brackets. 

I do have to wonder why Aquacomputer hasn't at least ginned up such a bracket as an optional accessory.

Anyway, I already have a suitable selection of Pemserts and a two ton drill arbor press on hand to accommodate the effort. I'll let you know how it goes in a day or two.


----------



## GTXJackBauer

iamjanco said:


> This is in reference to the following older post in Aquacomputer's support forum:
> 
> *4x Calitetemp on Aquabus: How to tell which sensor is which?*


I think you might be able to by warming up the one sensor you want to identify just like air temp probes. Blow warm air to it or possibly holding it with your hand/fingers to get a higher temp reading might be able to help you detect which is which.


----------



## iamjanco

GTXJackBauer said:


> I think you might be able to by warming up the one sensor you want to identify just like air temp probes. Blow warm air to it or possibly holding it with your hand/fingers to get a higher temp reading might be able to help you detect which is which.


Thanks, Jack, but what I wrote in my post was really about the Aquaero's bracket nut-plates blocking two of the four headers on the Aquabus x4.


----------



## InfoSeeker

iamjanco said:


> This is in reference to the following older post in Aquacomputer's support forum:
> 
> *4x Calitetemp on Aquabus: How to tell which sensor is which?*
> 
> My interest here is specifically changing the oem nut-plates in the Aquaero's bracket to allow for enough clearance to safely use all four headers on the *Aquabus x4 daughter board*. I'll be drilling out the oem nut-plates and attempting to replace them with *Pemsert nut-plates*. For the life of me the only reason I can see why Aquacomputer hasn't already done that is because of the logistical nightmare it might create given how many Aquaeros are currently in use and/or already stocked and accompanied by the original brackets.
> 
> I do have to wonder why Aquacomputer hasn't at least ginned up such a bracket as an optional accessory.
> 
> Anyway, I already have a suitable selection of Pemserts and a two ton drill arbor press on hand to accommodate the effort. I'll let you know how it goes in a day or two.



Using a 4-pin aquabus extension cable, you can mount the aquabus X4 off from the aquaero. But yes, that was a design oversight... they could easily have moved the electronics on the PCB to the outside, and placed the ports to the inside.


----------



## iamjanco

InfoSeeker said:


> Using a 4-pin aquabus extension cable, *you can mount the aquabus X4 off from the aquaero*. But yes, that was a design oversight... they could easily have moved the electronics on the PCB to the outside, and placed the ports to the inside.


Yeah, I noted that option in the AC forum. If what I'm planning on attempting doesn't work, that'll be my fallback.









*Update: *piece of cake:


----------



## Moose-Tech

skupples said:


> well, I was finally able to get RPM off of the Bitspower hubs, but no control.
> 
> so more splitty's OTW
> 
> also, for anyone still using the old school High Flow sensor with the large 3 pin. Hot Glue FTW.


AMEN!
First thing i did!


----------



## Moose-Tech

I just updated to version x22. (after the Bug fix)
It took me about an hour to match up the new data points to the last implementation, but I also had to update the firmware, which included getting all the HW upgraded to match AquaSuite x22. 

I love the new interfaces I have available with the new updates. I already made updates using the new display templates that are available. I made the following new page template to handle the new format.

I love the new design and features. I also use this SW for an Air-cooled build where I use case ambient to case intake as the delta with just a Quadro.

Seriously, I have no idea why any enthusiast would use any other SW to manage their cooling. This stuff is amazing!


----------



## CantingSoup

Does anyone know why the software is flagging the fan?


----------



## Shawnb99

CantingSoup said:


> Does anyone know why the software is flagging the fan?



Do you have something plugged into that header? If not you can ignore it.


----------



## CantingSoup

Shawnb99 said:


> CantingSoup said:
> 
> 
> 
> Does anyone know why the software is flagging the fan?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Do you have something plugged into that header? If not you can ignore it.
Click to expand...

I don’t have anything in the header. Thanks.


----------



## Shawnb99

CantingSoup said:


> I don’t have anything in the header. Thanks.



Then you can safely ignore it. The software doesn’t like when the headers are unused as it sees it as an RPM issue so it flags a warning just in case you did have something plugged in.


----------



## ManniX-ITA

CantingSoup said:


> I don’t have anything in the header. Thanks.


Because Output Power is set to 100%, so it's expecting the fan to report RPM speed; just set it to zero and should go away.


----------



## InfoSeeker

CantingSoup said:


> Does anyone know why the software is flagging the fan?



As Shawnb said, you can ignore it, but if you want to remove the amber error status, just set the 'Output power' to zero.


----------



## Ajeff401

Any of you gurus be kind to tell me how you made a “watts dissapated” and “water delta” virtual sensor?

Curious if I can tune the 240 and 360 separately to quiet the system down even more 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro


----------



## InfoSeeker

Ajeff401 said:


> Any of you gurus be kind to tell me how you made a “watts dissapated” and “water delta” virtual sensor?
> 
> Curious if I can tune the 240 and 360 separately to quiet the system down even more



Power dissipated is a built-in calculation. Under the aquaero go to Sensors > Power measurements and drag a flow sensor output and the radiator temperature in/out sensors to the respective slots and your done.

For the delta temp, under the aquaero, go to the Virtual sensor tab, drag the two sensors you want to compare to their respective slots, and select Temperature difference to get the delta.


----------



## war4peace

Ajeff401 said:


> Any of you gurus be kind to tell me how you made a “watts dissapated” and “water delta” virtual sensor?
> 
> Curious if I can tune the 240 and 360 separately to quiet the system down even more





InfoSeeker said:


> Power dissipated is a built-in calculation. Under the aquaero go to Sensors > Power measurements and drag a flow sensor output and the radiator temperature in/out sensors to the respective slots and your done.
> 
> For the delta temp, under the aquaero, go to the Virtual sensor tab, drag the two sensors you want to compare to their respective slots, and select Temperature difference to get the delta.


You can do it all in the Playground, if you know the formulas.

You need RAD IN, RAD OUT, Flow Senzor values as inputs. You also need Water Thermal Capacity as constant and seconds per hour or seconds per minute as another constant, depending on how your flow meter is set up. Mine is set up in liters per hour, so I use seconds per hour as constant.

1. Go to Playground in Aquasuite.
2. Add two Inputs, for RAD in and RAD out.
3. Add a calculation (X=A-B), use RAD IN as first input, RAD out as 2nd input.
4. Add a constant called "Water Thermal Capacity", enter its value as 4187.
5. Add a calculation (X=A*B), use result from step 3 as one input and step 4 as the 2nd input.
6. Add another input (Flow Sensor value).
7. Add a calculation (X=A*B), use result from step 5 as one input and result from step 6 as the other input.
8. Add a constant (either seconds per hour with value 3600 or seconds per minute with value 60 - depends on how your flow sensor value is shown, in L/min or L/h).
9. Add a calculation (X=A/B), use results from Step 7 as first input and step 8 as the 2nd input.
10. Link the result from step 9 to the OUT in the Playground.

Congratulations, you now have a Power Dissipation virtual sensor!

Caveat: Step 4 value assumes 1L of liquid is equal in mass to 1 Kg of water, and that the cooling liquid has the same heat dissipation value as water. If you know the exact values for your liquid (density, heat dissipation characteristics), you could alter values at step 4 and add a density multiplier in the formula steps. Hit me up if you do want that.


----------



## NE0XY

It's been a couple of years since I added an Aquaero 6XT to my system, and haven't really changed anything connected to it, just the gpu, cpu changes etc, which doesn't really affect the Aquaero so I've kinda forgotten about what works etc, anyway: I'm going to be doing a pretty big rebuild soon and I thought this would be a good time to get rid of my current not-so-good flow meter and get an Aquacomputer one, which would work great with the Aquaero, I just want to quickly make sure that they are actually compatible: 
TLDR: Is this flow indicator compatible with the Aquaero 6XT? And is there anything else I should consider?
https://www.aquatuning.co.uk/water-...r-aquaero-aquastream-xt-ultra-and-poweradjust

Thanks =)


----------



## Shawnb99

Yep all of their flow meters are compatible No need to worry


----------



## war4peace

That is a great flow meter, I have two of them in my builds, they are excellent.


----------



## NE0XY

Shawnb99 said:


> Yep all of their flow meters are compatible No need to worry





war4peace said:


> That is a great flow meter, I have two of them in my builds, they are excellent.


Thanks! =)

Edit: Should I opt for the USB version instead? What would be the main benefits, not much of a price difference


----------



## war4peace

You can connect the USB one directly to the PC instead of Aquaero. Which means, if all you want is a flow meter and don't want to spend money on an Aquaero, you can buy the USB flow meter and use it standalone.
Since I have Aquaeros, I went for the non-USB variants.


----------



## NE0XY

war4peace said:


> You can connect the USB one directly to the PC instead of Aquaero. Which means, if all you want is a flow meter and don't want to spend money on an Aquaero, you can buy the USB flow meter and use it standalone.
> Since I have Aquaeros, I went for the non-USB variants.


Ah, not needed for me then, since I have an Aquaero.
Thanks for the assist


----------



## skupples

NE0XY said:


> It's been a couple of years since I added an Aquaero 6XT to my system, and haven't really changed anything connected to it, just the gpu, cpu changes etc, which doesn't really affect the Aquaero so I've kinda forgotten about what works etc, anyway: I'm going to be doing a pretty big rebuild soon and I thought this would be a good time to get rid of my current not-so-good flow meter and get an Aquacomputer one, which would work great with the Aquaero, I just want to quickly make sure that they are actually compatible:
> TLDR: Is this flow indicator compatible with the Aquaero 6XT? And is there anything else I should consider?
> https://www.aquatuning.co.uk/water-...r-aquaero-aquastream-xt-ultra-and-poweradjust
> 
> Thanks =)



my only critique for this exact model is that it uses a scaled up 3pin, which seems to affect how well the pins stay in place.


a glob of hot glue in each hole fixes this issue, and makes it drip-proof (I've also fried one getting drips into the 3 pin) 



the newer model includes a temp sensor and more interface options.
https://www.performance-pcs.com/wat...-rate-sensor-high-flow-usb-g1-4-aq-53129.html


----------



## NE0XY

skupples said:


> my only critique for this exact model is that it uses a scaled up 3pin, which seems to affect how well the pins stay in place.
> 
> 
> a glob of hot glue in each hole fixes this issue, and makes it drip-proof (I've also fried one getting drips into the 3 pin)
> 
> 
> 
> the newer model includes a temp sensor and more interface options.
> https://www.performance-pcs.com/wat...-rate-sensor-high-flow-usb-g1-4-aq-53129.html


Thanks for the response, 

So in this USB version, I'm not sure I understand when I compare your comment and the product description. Does it include a temp sensor or no? And I still have to connect a 3pin (for rpm) and USB to my Aquaero? 

Thanks


----------



## Shawnb99

NE0XY said:


> Thanks for the response,
> 
> So in this USB version, I'm not sure I understand when I compare your comment and the product description. Does it include a temp sensor or no? And I still have to connect a 3pin (for rpm) and USB to my Aquaero?
> 
> Thanks


It has a port to plug in a external Temp sensor, there isn't one in the flow meter. Correct you should still need to connect the 3 pin connector to read the rpm's.


----------



## NE0XY

Shawnb99 said:


> It has a port to plug in a external Temp sensor, there isn't one in the flow meter. Correct you should still need to connect the 3 pin connector to read the rpm's.


So why not just a connect the temp sensor to the Aquaeros port instead? And what's the point of the USB if I have to use the 3-pin anyway? sounds like maybe I should stick with the regular one


----------



## Shawnb99

NE0XY said:


> So why not just a connect the temp sensor to the Aquaeros port instead? And what's the point of the USB if I have to use the 3-pin anyway? sounds like maybe I should stick with the regular one


For if you need 9 sensors or one isn't close to the Aquero or cleaner cable runs. As for the point of the USB I couldn't tell you, that's why I've stuck with the normal one. Never had any issues with the pins not staying in place, on both of mine it takes effort to even get it lose, more prone to break the cable then have the pins come lose.


----------



## NE0XY

Shawnb99 said:


> For if you need 9 sensors or one isn't close to the Aquero or cleaner cable runs. As for the point of the USB I couldn't tell you, that's why I've stuck with the normal one. Never had any issues with the pins not staying in place, on both of mine it takes effort to even get it lose, more prone to break the cable then have the pins come lose.


I see, thanks. I don't need that many so I'll stick with the regular one. Thanks
Now I'll just need to find a longer 3pin cable from EU shop since I don't think the 30cm one will be enough


----------



## InfoSeeker

NE0XY said:


> So why not just a connect the temp sensor to the Aquaeros port instead? And what's the point of the USB if I have to use the 3-pin anyway? sounds like maybe I should stick with the regular one



Actually, the Flow Sensor High Flow USB does NOT have the 3-pin port/cable.
The aquasuite gets the flow rate over the USB and/or aquabus connection.

Edit: since the aquabus cable is essentially a 4-pin PWM fan cable, you can get various lengths or extensions as needed.


----------



## skupples

you have two models.


Model A uses the BIG 3 pin which connects via RPM header on the Aquaero, no temp sensor. (this is the one I said you could 



Model B (newer model) uses Auqabus (PWM 4 pin header) + a 2 pin fem/fem temp probe line (probably includes ones) to the aquaero temp probe section.


----------



## NE0XY

Thanks for the answers, 
I'll probably get the non-USB version. And I'll probably use the RPM cable from my current flowmeter, I guess that would work. 

Current: https://www.amazon.com/Bitspower-Fl...F65Z2N60C5VX&refRID=956MFFRTF65Z2N60C5VX&th=1


----------



## chibi

Regarding the Flow sensor high flow G1/4 (SKU: 53068), does it require a min length of tubing before and after similar to the MPS Flow 400 series?

Also, the high flow sensor does not need calibrating, correct?


----------



## Shawnb99

Nope it doesn't to both questions.


----------



## chibi

Shawnb99 said:


> Nope it doesn't to both questions.



Awesome, thx! :thumb:


----------



## Ajeff401

Has anyone put an Aquaero in a meshify c or like case in the circles area? Mounted were the fan would be. 

Pondering if theres a better way 

bottom mounts are 120mm from what I can see the Aquaero is 148mm. Width wise there’s more than 148mm across on the case


----------



## broodro0ster

Ajeff401 said:


> Has anyone put an Aquaero in a meshify c or like case in the circles area? Mounted were the fan would be.
> 
> Pondering if theres a better way
> 
> bottom mounts are 120mm from what I can see the Aquaero is 148mm. Width wise there’s more than 148mm across on the case


Yea, that would work if you remove the lower HDD cage and ofcourse buy the Aquaero 6LT without screen to mount it there. 
Also, you won't be able to directly mount it to the fan holes, but you could make a mounting plate in wood or arcylic that attaches to the fan slots and then mount the Aquaero to the other side. Or you could also design and 3D print one if you have access to a 3D printer.


----------



## wa3pnt

I have both an Aquaero 6LT and a Farbwerk mounted in that area.
They are mounted to the bottom of the case with screws that lined up with the perferations in the bottom.

RodeoGeorge


----------



## Shoggy

Review of the OCTO with a good insight into the aquasuite Software


----------



## shotround

im looking to repurpose an old case to house a rad or two and a pump with its own ps. so im looking for a headless controller for the fans and pump when the pc is off. that way the pump and fans arent at full power. then sync with the other pump when the system is on. looks like the acquero 6 is what im looking for or maybe the octo. is there anything else out there to consider? i bought a commander pro bout a year ago and its not up to the task or any task as the fan ports have died out.


----------



## Avacado

shotround said:


> im looking to repurpose an old case to house a rad or two and a pump with its own ps. so im looking for a headless controller for the fans and pump when the pc is off. that way the pump and fans arent at full power. then sync with the other pump when the system is on. looks like the acquero 6 is what im looking for or maybe the octo. is there anything else out there to consider? i bought a commander pro bout a year ago and its not up to the task or any task as the fan ports have died out.


An Octo will serve you well, I currently run that in my sig rig. I also had a Commander Pro which died. It does not tolerate multiple fans on single 4pins very well. Their software is known to be buggy as hell. You will NOT regret making the switch to Aquasweet!


----------



## shotround

Avacado said:


> An Octo will serve you well, I currently run that in my sig rig. I also had a Commander Pro which died. It does not tolerate multiple fans on single 4pins very well. Their software is known to be buggy as hell. You will NOT regret making the switch to Aquasweet!


i went through three of them. it couldn't handle one fan per port. one had just one 80cm 3pin fan salvaged from the early 2000s. finger chopper at full speed. ive since removed that one. the other died from some noctua fans.

i currently use the commander pro to drive a fan hub. that seems to work out on the 'main' pc. guess ill wait for the octo to go back in stock when a certain retailer runs its discount code.


----------



## Thebc2

Looking forward to testing my Octo out! Originally ordered a quadro and quickly discovered I needed way more fan capacity.

Judging by the Octo’s specs I shouldn’t have any issues plugging in 6 Noctua 2k rpm fans per fan port. My goal is to run a total of 33 fans across 6-7 of the Octo’s fan ports, with the most being 6 fans per port, and the least being 1. Specs on the Octo is up to 25w per port and 100w total across all 8 ports.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro


----------



## Shawnb99

Thebc2 said:


> Looking forward to testing my Octo out! Originally ordered a quadro and quickly discovered I needed way more fan capacity.
> 
> Judging by the Octo’s specs I shouldn’t have any issues plugging in 6 Noctua 2k rpm fans per fan port. My goal is to run a total of 33 fans across 6-7 of the Octo’s fan ports, with the most being 6 fans per port, and the least being 1. Specs on the Octo is up to 25w per port and 100w total across all 8 ports.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro


The Industrial ones? I had no problem plugging 16 of the 3k models into one header. Be aware the 3k ones had PWM issues where connecting more then 1 fan and I'd lose all PWM control, was an issue with the fans that I believe Noctua has fixed, not sure as I haven't followed up as I replaced those fans. I think 2k ones were fine but just an issue to be aware of. Not sure what batches had that issue but I think it's been fixed.

16 of the NFA12's have a pull up speed of about 28w and slow down to around 21w or so at full speed, no issues on a Quadro so the Octo should be the same.


----------



## Thebc2

Shawnb99 said:


> The Industrial ones? I had no problem plugging 16 of the 3k models into one header. Be aware the 3k ones had PWM issues where connecting more then 1 fan and I'd lose all PWM control, was an issue with the fans that I believe Noctua has fixed, not sure as I haven't followed up as I replaced those fans. I think 2k ones were fine but just an issue to be aware of. Not sure what batches had that issue but I think it's been fixed.
> 
> 
> 
> 16 of the NFA12's have a pull up speed of about 28w and slow down to around 21w or so at full speed, no issues on a Quadro so the Octo should be the same.




NF-A12x25, my go to


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro


----------



## shotround

is there any difference between the aquero 6xt at modmymods and performance pc? roughly selling for $30 difference. or just get the octo at around $60?

https://modmymods.com/aquacomputer-...cd-touch-control-ir-remote-control-53250.html

https://www.performance-pcs.com/wat...hic-lcd-touch-control-ir-remote-aq-53146.html


----------



## Circaflex

shotround said:


> is there any difference between the aquero 6xt at modmymods and performance pc? roughly selling for $30 difference. or just get the octo at around $60?
> 
> https://modmymods.com/aquacomputer-...cd-touch-control-ir-remote-control-53250.html
> 
> https://www.performance-pcs.com/wat...hic-lcd-touch-control-ir-remote-aq-53146.html


I dont believe so, what I would recommend doing is going with the cheaper one and using the money saved for the heatsink. These things get hot if you have the channels filled up, just an FYI.


----------



## pipes

I have not seen if in the video he tries to slow down the fans by decreasing the output current ... because the problem of how many fans are used is not to keep them at maximum speed but to keep them at minimum, where the mosfet heats up more


----------



## InfoSeeker

shotround said:


> is there any difference between the aquero 6xt at modmymods and performance pc? roughly selling for $30 difference. or just get the octo at around $60?
> 
> https://modmymods.com/aquacomputer-...cd-touch-control-ir-remote-control-53250.html
> 
> https://www.performance-pcs.com/wat...hic-lcd-touch-control-ir-remote-aq-53146.html



The aquaero at ModMyMods has the upgraded black face plate... performance wise they are identical.

I use octos for my builds. They have 8 fan ports with a curve controller for each port, RGBpx support (aquaero does not), and flow sensor/temp sensor inputs. One of the things that used to draw me to the aquaero was virtual temp sensors, but this can be done more powerfully in the aquasuite Playground now.

The octo only controls PWM fans, with a maximum current per port of 2 amps, and a maximum of 8 amps for all 8 ports combined.


----------



## shotround

InfoSeeker said:


> The aquaero at PPCs has the upgraded black face plate... performance wise they are identical.
> 
> I use octos for my builds. They have 8 fan ports with a curve controller for each port, RGBpx support (aquaero does not), and flow sensor/temp sensor inputs. One of the things that used to draw me to the aquaero was virtual temp sensors, but this can be done more powerfully in the aquasuite Playground now.
> 
> The octo only controls PWM fans, with a maximum current per port is 2 amps, and a maximum of 8 amps for all 8 ports combined.


6xt came in. guess i have to find some fans other than noctua ippc or implement diva mod. were there any reports of the nf-a12x25 working with the 6xt? havent hooked up the usb and software yet. just going through the display tonight. wishing i had gone with this instead of commander pro now.

ill likely get an octo when the commander pro dies. or i get fed up with it. whichever comes first.


----------



## shotround

Circaflex said:


> I dont believe so, what I would recommend doing is going with the cheaper one and using the money saved for the heatsink. These things get hot if you have the channels filled up, just an FYI.


thx. i did just that.


----------



## Ajeff401

Anyone randomly lose fan/sensor names in Aquasuite? I’m using an octo and every so often the fan names default back to fan1 etc


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro


----------



## Shawnb99

New high flow sensor released. Said to be more accurate 

https://forum.aquacomputer.de/weite...the-next-generation-of-flow-sensors/?1812f3ae


----------



## shotround

Shawnb99 said:


> New high flow sensor released. Said to be more accurate
> 
> https://forum.aquacomputer.de/weite...the-next-generation-of-flow-sensors/?1812f3ae


guess that answers the next question i was going to ask.....


----------



## InfoSeeker

shotround said:


> 6xt came in. guess i have to find some fans other than noctua ippc or implement diva mod. were there any reports of the nf-a12x25 working with the 6xt? havent hooked up the usb and software yet. just going through the display tonight. wishing i had gone with this instead of commander pro now.
> 
> ill likely get an octo when the commander pro dies. or i get fed up with it. whichever comes first.



Noctua is aware of the issue and, I believe, has corrected the problem. It appears they have also replaced fans with the issue. See THIS POST.


----------



## Shawnb99

InfoSeeker said:


> Noctua is aware of the issue and, I believe, has corrected the problem. It appears they have also replaced fans with the issue. See THIS POST.



Good to see they offered to replace all the defective fans.


----------



## Shoggy

They also have a FAQ entry for this problem

https://noctua.at/en/are-noctua-fans-compatible-with-aquacomputer-aquaero-fan-controllers


----------



## skupples

oooo i like the new screenless form factor.


too bad my ancient ones will never break, unless I drop them or get them wet.


----------



## Shawnb99

skupples said:


> oooo i like the new screenless form factor.
> 
> 
> too bad my ancient ones will never break, unless I drop them or get them wet.



The next version has all the extra features so it looks to be the one to get.
Not sure how much water quality will matter but nice to have.
The calibration curves and coolant/connections calibration are only in the Next model


----------



## skupples

Shawnb99 said:


> The next version has all the extra features so it looks to be the one to get.
> Not sure how much water quality will matter but nice to have.
> The calibration curves and coolant/connections calibration are only in the Next model


true


first thought on the water sensor is its measuring dissolved solids or something. Like a Zero Water tester. i'll have to read up later.


----------



## Thebc2

Daaaaaaaaaaamn. I literally just received my old style flow meter from Performance PCs, luckily i hadn’t installed its yet.

Any idea when these new models will be available in the US?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro


----------



## shotround

Shoggy said:


> They also have a FAQ entry for this problem
> 
> https://noctua.at/en/are-noctua-fans-compatible-with-aquacomputer-aquaero-fan-controllers


Looks like one of the two is 1905. I can’t see the other but it works off the main board. Some Corsair fans didn’t work either, but I can run them off the main board (mobo) also. I need more fans anyway.

When does the new flow meters reach retailers? I have the itch to reroute the flex tubing to add the third rad.

By the time I’m done, I’ll accept I should have gone with some octos and a mora. That or I’ll plenty of spare parts to water cool something for the kid or nephews.


----------



## Shawnb99

shotround said:


> Looks like one of the two is 1905. I can’t see the other but it works off the main board. Some Corsair fans didn’t work either, but I can run them off the main board (mobo) also. I need more fans anyway.
> 
> When does the new flow meters reach retailers? I have the itch to reroute the flex tubing to add the third rad.
> 
> By the time I’m done, I’ll accept I should have gone with some octos and a mora. That or I’ll plenty of spare parts to water cool something for the kid or nephews.


Vadars also have this problem. It was also a problem with the 3k Industrial Noctua's as well. Glad to see it's fixed and they replaced any fans that had the issue. Good to know as I'm just about to order 14 more Noctua NF-A12's


----------



## WiLd FyeR

Need help trying to fix the service issue. Every couple days the Aqua Computer Service becomes inactive and I have to Start the service. I do have the latest firmware.


----------



## GTXJackBauer




----------



## 414347

WiLd FyeR said:


> Need help trying to fix the service issue. Every couple days the Aqua Computer Service becomes inactive and I have to Start the service. I do have the latest firmware.


Are you on latest X.26 this is an issue that goes back to few previous versions and obviously still exists. I'm on the latest and although It happens less frequently, occasionally I still have that as well.


----------



## Shawnb99

Thebc2 said:


> Daaaaaaaaaaamn. I literally just received my old style flow meter from Performance PCs, luckily i hadn’t installed its yet.
> 
> Any idea when these new models will be available in the US?
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro



No idea when it’ll be available stateside but it should be in the Aquacomputer shop as of Friday.
Will be in the shop but won’t ship for 6-8 weeks


----------



## nycgtr

Anyone have this strange issue with their OCTO?

I am using ML fans connected to my octo. Everything was all good until about a week ago. I noticed randomly the fans will all go to 0 and stop spinning. Adjusting anything in aquasuite does not make the fans spin, they just show 0 rpm. Only after a power cycle of the octo does it continue to function as it should.


----------



## Shawnb99

@Shoggy will there be a change in the limit on the number of High flow Next's that can be connected to the Aquero at once compared to the normal high flow?


----------



## d0mmie

nycgtr said:


> Anyone have this strange issue with their OCTO?
> 
> I am using ML fans connected to my octo. Everything was all good until about a week ago. I noticed randomly the fans will all go to 0 and stop spinning. Adjusting anything in aquasuite does not make the fans spin, they just show 0 rpm. Only after a power cycle of the octo does it continue to function as it should.


Think I've had a similar issue with my first Quadro. After system reboot my fans would spin, in this case Noctua fans, but after perhaps a day or two, one or more PWM channels would just die. No matter what I did, I could not get them going again. I completely reset my Quadro to factory default and uninstalled the software, but then I decided to buy a new one so I'm not even sure if its fixed for that unit. I really don't know if this was a software or hardware fault.


----------



## Thebc2

Shawnb99 said:


> No idea when it’ll be available stateside but it should be in the Aquacomputer shop as of Friday.
> Will be in the shop but won’t ship for 6-8 weeks




Welp, looks like I am keeping the old style flow meter....and ordering one of the new ones as well when they become available. I need my flow data in aqua suite or my ocd is going to go through the roof.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro


----------



## Section31

I definitely want one of the new ones, they got temperature sensor integrated.High Flow 2 since i already have an d5 next.


----------



## hidethecookies

Does anyone have experience running 2 aquastream xt ultras in series?


----------



## Shoggy

Shawnb99 said:


> @Shoggy will there be a change in the limit on the number of High flow Next's that can be connected to the Aquero at once compared to the normal high flow?


The high flow NEXT shares the same resources as the mps devices. So you can have 4 devices of this type in total.

Besides a direct aquabus connection you can also use the signal output of the sensor. It can be configured to fake a classic high flow so it can be connected to a flow port. Of course this will not grant any access to the other features. It only tells the aquaero the flow rate like a normal flow sensor.


----------



## Shawnb99

Shoggy said:


> The high flow NEXT shares the same resources as the mps devices. So you can have 4 devices of this type in total.
> 
> Besides a direct aquabus connection you can also use the signal output of the sensor. It can be configured to fake a classic high flow so it can be connected to a flow port. Of course this will not grant any access to the other features. It only tells the aquaero the flow rate like a normal flow sensor.



Thanks for the info.


----------



## shotround

Shoggy said:


> They also have a FAQ entry for this problem
> 
> https://noctua.at/en/are-noctua-fans-compatible-with-aquacomputer-aquaero-fan-controllers


It appears my fan problem was psu related. Four failed capacitors. Raidmax psu from 2006 vintage. I should fix it but I’ve got a psu or three laying around doing nothing.


----------



## um2802

@Shoggy - quick question - from the new series of flow-meter (HF NEXT / HF 2 / HF LT) - which of them can be mount to Quadro and be full functional on it?

THX


----------



## Shoggy

@um2802 high flow 2 and LT make most sense if you want to combine it with the QUADRO. The supplied cable will provide the flow rate and coolant temperature when you pick the high flow 2 variant, and with the LT variant you will only get the flow rate (it has no integrated sensor).

It is also possible to connect the high flow NEXT but you will only get its flow rate in this case. The trick is to set its signal output to fake the signal of a classic high flow sensor. This way you can have its flow rate on the flow port of the QUADRO or any other device with a flow port. The USB port of the sensor must be connected in this case to provide power. The high flow 2 and LT get their power through the flow port.


----------



## war4peace

Is the High Flow Next seen as a standalone device when connected to USB? I am thinking about buying two of them, one for each semi-loop (it's complicated lol), to measure flow for the respective branches.


----------



## Shoggy

Yes, of course. All of our devices with USB can be used stand-alone.


----------



## war4peace

Perfect, I have an Aquaero 6 LT, a Farbwerk 360 and a Hubby7 (among other things, like the v1 high flow), so I will connect all of them to the Hubby7 which I will tuck somewhere hidden.
Thank you for the answer!


----------



## shotround

after spending the weekend tinkering with the aquaero 6; i think i can live happily ever after. i see i could have made do with an octo or if i scaled down on sensors, then a quadro. i had a commander pro before this and it mostly met my needs except for dying fan ports. 

i have the aquaero in the old corsair 600c case with a 280 rad and pump for continuous operation. the old case also had two 5.25 drive bays. corsair case empty otherwise.

main case is fractal s2 with a 360, 280 rad and a pump. fwiw, running the fans around 1000rpm dropped the internal air temp. when it was at minimum speed, i always got a blast of warm air when i opened the case. ill consider a second rad in the old case after lapping the 1700x or replacing the block with a better one. the current block is ek. 

observations after plumbing in the third rad. the cpu temp dropped around three degrees under gaming load. with blender, it had no impact. the 9750 amd gpu temps dropped by one. it has a gpu (chip) only block. but i need to tame the heat spreader/midplate. the temp probe measures vram area at 50C under load even with a few heatsinks thermal taped on and a fan pointed at it. pretty much covered the midplate with heatsinks. probably wont spend any more money on the gpu though. ill wait for my brother's next hand me down gpu.

to do list:
1. have aquaero pull psu paper clip jumper in catastrophic event. i got the power connect, but haven't hooked it up yet.
2. wonder why i just didn't get a mora.
3. sleep
4. replace the copro for an octo down the road. 
5. get flow meter.


----------



## shotround

how do i set the programmable keys in aquasuite on an aquaero 6xt? i figured out how with the ir keyboard and touchscreen. but didnt see how to do it from aquasuite.

just a wish but it would be nice to drag around the temp sensors (virtual and software) on the sensor screen in aquasuite. or a better way to rearrange the order as it would appear on the aquaero display information pages. as i figure out the sequencing, i find that i have to relabel them in hwinfo and virtual sensor depends on positioning of the software sensor. guess ill accept it and move on or let the ocd take over.


----------



## Shoggy

The programmable keys can not be programmed through the software. This feature only exists within the aquaero and must be set up via its own menu and screen.


----------



## war4peace

shotround said:


> to do list:
> 1. have aquaero pull psu paper clip jumper in catastrophic event. i got the power connect, but haven't hooked it up yet.
> 2. wonder why i just didn't get a mora.
> 3. sleep
> 4. replace the copro for an octo down the road.
> 5. get flow meter.


1. It has its own relay, so you can do that easily.
2. MoRa is awesome. I have a MoRa 420 and it simply rocks. I have installed 4x230mm fans on it, whisper quiet.
3. Essential for health.
4. Copro sounds yucky. Replace it ASAP.
5. Get the High Flow NEXT, if you can get your hands on one, that is. I have asked my local watercooling shop to (pre?) order two for myself and a couple more for stock.


----------



## skupples

why's that 2080ti active backplate always gotta be sold out  



i guess I'm never gonna watercool my 2080ti after all.


even attempting to level Commander Pro & Octo/Quadro in the same tier by shortening its name to something similar = yucky.


----------



## TWiST2k

Just did updates on everything and a full power off for 60 seconds, when I reboot the fans are full speed and wont spool down at all. I am on the newest Aquasuite, D5 Next and Aquaero 6XT. I remember this happening before, but I thought a full power cycle resolved it.

Any ideas would be helpful while my jet engine continues to fire lol.

UPDATE

Figured it out, I was able to restore my settings backup from before the update and it resolved everything. I for sure did not do this last time it happened, but if anyone else has this issue it is worth a try.

Thanks!


----------



## jura11

skupples said:


> why's that 2080ti active backplate always gotta be sold out
> 
> 
> 
> i guess I'm never gonna watercool my 2080ti after all.
> 
> 
> even attempting to level Commander Pro & Octo/Quadro in the same tier by shortening its name to something similar = yucky.


I just used my Aquacomputer Kryographics RTX 2080Ti with active backplate on my Zotac RTX 2080Ti AMP, I bought it last year I think abd finally got time to swap it, on that Zotac RTX 2080Ti AMP I have run EK Vector waterblock and temperatures I have seen 38-42°C with EK Vector and now with Aquacomputer Kryographics and Zotac RTX 2080Ti AMP I'm seeing 33-36°C now

In both cases I have run same 380W BIOS and same OC 2115MHz 

Similarly running on my 3900X Aquacomputer Kryos Next and temperatures are great without the question 

Hope this helps 

Thanks, Jura


----------



## skupples

yeaaah. I've had my eyes set on the active back plate since Keplar.

maybe for my 3090 then. rather wait on Aquacomputer to deliver than Optimus at this point.

They need a new marketing manager before they get another penny from me, as I don't give money to people that run lying as SOP.


----------



## CodeZ1LLa

skupples said:


> yeaaah. I've had my eyes set on the active back plate since Keplar.
> 
> maybe for my 3090 then. rather wait on Aquacomputer to deliver than Optimus at this point.
> 
> They need a new marketing manager before they get another penny from me, as I don't give money to people that run lying as SOP.


Their marketing manager is the owner at the same time, so likely, they'll never get a penny from you (and me as well). I tried Optimus block on 3900X and it performed worse than Raystorm Pro. Not dramatically, but measurably. Additionally, I contacted them some time ago because I wanted to make a review for their blocks since I'm a professional tester and reviewer and I was surprised that there are no real tests for Optimus blocks that can be found in the network. Seems like they really don't want any reviews and especially a comparison with other blocks. I can't trust a such company, because if they would really have a good product, they would send their blocks for the review to all big YouTube channels and would be open to any tests.


----------



## Streetdragon

i swiched over to an OCTO and im happy! Love it.

Just a little question: I still have my old aquaero 6 with a screen. I wanna place it on my desk and i wanna cycle the temps etc on the screen.
What do i need to display the temps on the screen? Wich cable do i need beside the 4-pin power?


----------



## Section31

skupples said:


> yeaaah. I've had my eyes set on the active back plate since Keplar.
> 
> maybe for my 3090 then. rather wait on Aquacomputer to deliver than Optimus at this point.
> 
> They need a new marketing manager before they get another penny from me, as I don't give money to people that run lying as SOP.


You also should get there new aquacomputer products like there next high flow temp/flow sensor and ultitube with d5. I wonder if Aquacomputer is working secretly on new radiators like Heatkiller is. I always wanted one of the Heatkiller/Aquacomputer radiators but couldn't justify buying them. In the market for new radiators designs (with improvement).


----------



## Shawnb99

Section31 said:


> You also should get there new aquacomputer products like there next high flow temp/flow sensor and ultitube with d5. I wonder if Aquacomputer is working secretly on new radiators like Heatkiller is. I always wanted one of the Heatkiller/Aquacomputer radiators but couldn't justify buying them. In the market for new radiators designs (with improvement).


I want a full copper one. Fins, siding everything in copper.


----------



## Section31

Shawnb99 said:


> I want a full copper one. Fins, siding everything in copper.


Who knows. Aquacomputer suprise announces stuff (no leaks) so none of us know what they are up to though they are updating most of there older lineup in last 1-2years if people have not noticed. Outside of the usual CPU, GPU Blocks In last two years, D5 Next, Quadro/Octo, New RGB Controller, Reservoir. That must mean the radiators are coming out.


----------



## Shawnb99

Maybe a new Aquero though I don't see how they could really improve it


----------



## InfoSeeker

Shawnb99 said:


> Maybe a new Aquero though I don't see how they could really improve it


Add RGBpx controllers perhaps, but I think the aquaero has seen it's last update... that's just me speculating.


----------



## skupples

why would I get replacement parts when my existing ones still work fine?

I have no use for the little screens, and slightly more accurate functionality on a flow meter means nothing to me tbh.



Shawnb99 said:


> Maybe a new Aquero though I don't see how they could really improve it



not very imaginative are we


----------



## ManniX-ITA

Aquaero is fantastic but there are yet tons of possible improvements that could be considered.
My favorite would be programming the starting RPM speed/voltage for the fans; boot forced at 100% it's not really smart.
Also what I'd love to see is a more advanced SoC with flexible addressing and a modular system.
But honestly best of the best would be a better licensing system


----------



## Shoggy

ManniX-ITA said:


> My favorite would be programming the starting RPM speed/voltage for the fans


You can already configure the start boost (power and duration) in the advanced settings of each fan channel.


----------



## ManniX-ITA

Shoggy said:


> You can already configure the start boost (power and duration) in the advanced settings of each fan channel.


Yep, that's when the fan is stopped and restarted.
I meant at system start-up to avoid the "server effect".


----------



## CodeZ1LLa

ManniX-ITA said:


> Yep, that's when the fan is stopped and restarted.
> I meant at system start-up to avoid the "server effect".


If you are talking about the situation when fans run full speed at the start-up when your fans are linked to the software sensor, then you can set a sensor's fall-back temperature and fans will be dead quiet during the start-up


----------



## sakete

CodeZ1LLa said:


> If you are talking about the situation when fans run full speed at the start-up when your fans are linked to the software sensor, then you can set a sensor's fall-back temperature and fans will be dead quiet during the start-up


Dude!! Thanks for this, now I can set my rear exhaust on a curve, instead of fixed speed, as I found it annoying that it would spin at 100% during boot.


----------



## ManniX-ITA

CodeZ1LLa said:


> If you are talking about the situation when fans run full speed at the start-up when your fans are linked to the software sensor, then you can set a sensor's fall-back temperature and fans will be dead quiet during the start-up


Don't think so, I have a fall-back temp for the software sensors.
That works once the board is initialized till the system start and the Aqua software is started.
Not 100% was Shoggy replying but someone else asked here or in the Aqua forum and the answer was at boot while the board is initialized all the fan channels are being run at full speed.
I'd like to have a setting to tell the bootloader use a 66% rpm/voltage value during init.


----------



## Pinnacle Fit

I'm having a weird issue with my octo. I wanted to see if there was a remedy someone could suggest here before I put in an RMA request.

I have two channels (2 and 8) that do this weird thing where they're 'inverted'. For instance when its at 12%, its really at 88% speed (100-12)%. I figured this out when I set the fan at 5% and it was almost at max. Then i set it to 90% and it like it was barely running

I dont understand why this is happening. Is it possible to reflash the firmware or something? Has anyone had this issue?


----------



## CodeZ1LLa

ManniX-ITA said:


> Don't think so, I have a fall-back temp for the software sensors.
> That works once the board is initialized till the system start and the Aqua software is started.
> Not 100% was Shoggy replying but someone else asked here or in the Aqua forum and the answer was at boot while the board is initialized all the fan channels are being run at full speed.
> I'd like to have a setting to tell the bootloader use a 66% rpm/voltage value during init.


Aquaero remains powered on as long as it has power from PSU. It has nothing to do with the board because those settings are stored right on aquaero memory. If you go to the software sensor settings and set a fallback temp to the idle level or degree or two below, it will be dead quiet. I had the same issue and got it fixed this way. As you can see it worked for sakete too so it should work for you, try it.


----------



## ManniX-ITA

CodeZ1LLa said:


> Aquaero remains powered on as long as it has power from PSU. It has nothing to do with the board because those settings are stored right on aquaero memory. If you go to the software sensor settings and set a fallback temp to the idle level or degree or two below, it will be dead quiet. I had the same issue and got it fixed this way. As you can see it worked for sakete too so it should work for you, try it.


That's what I'm talking about; when the power is disconnected


----------



## skupples

i always thought it was weird aquaero rev'd at start too, but I figure it just takes a second for chokes to choke... or something.


----------



## Circaflex

I have some questions. I have a splitty9 and tried to run 12 arctic fans(p12 pwm pst) off of it, 2 fans per header and when connected to my aquaero 6; my aquaero6 wont turn on. Am I overloading it?

My aquaero has the following connected already:

Channel 1: DDC
Channel 2: DDC
Channel 3: 14 Gentle Typhoons
Channel 4: 12 Gentle Typhoons and 2 Arctic P12PWM PST

Am I just at the limit and need to run the splitty 9 directly off of the motherboard?


----------



## Barefooter

Sounds like you are over loading it. Try half as many fans and see if it works.

Another option is to run power and ground from the power supply to the Splitty9, and then run the RPM and PWM wires to the Aquaero.


----------



## Shoggy

If it does not turn at all it is very likely that you have an overvoltage problem with the 5V supply. There is an overvoltage protection circuit that immediately cuts the power to prevent damage.
An overload would not turn off the device but trigger the overload alarm which will be also displayed in the display and software.


----------



## Pinnacle Fit

On the topic of overloading, is it safe to plug the pwm and tach fan header of a non Aquacomputer d5 pump into a quadro or Octo? (I worry because the d5 is technically a powered device so I’m not sure if I’m gonna fry anything) 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Circaflex

well im not sure, i wanted to get up and running so i swapped to a fan controller that just plugs into the PSU for now. the strange part is, each of those fans is only .08a and 12 is under 1a which should be ok for the splitty, correct? ill have to play around with it some more when i have time, id love to use it.


----------



## Shoggy

Pinnacle Fit said:


> is it safe to plug the pwm and tach fan header of a non Aquacomputer d5 pump into a quadro or Octo?


No problem.


----------



## Bogga

Hi again my dear aquaero friends... I'm finally back on water after quite some time away.
Connected my aquaero to my temporary little water station I built the other day. All works perfectly and I just love all the stuff you can do with this little thingy!

But I've encountered an issue. Googling it took me to threads that was many years old and none of them gave me an answer on how to fix it.
My issue is that I can control all the fans I've connected to FAN1, but it doesn't show any RPM. I've got the exact same setup on FAN2 which works just as it should. Is there a solution to this problem?

Firmware is updated...

This is how it looks:


----------



## Shawnb99

What fans? Are they connected via a Splitty9?


----------



## Bogga

Shawnb99 said:


> What fans? Are they connected via a Splitty9?


Nevermind... I just removed a PWM extension cable and voila... problem solved


----------



## Shawnb99

lol that was an easy fix. Good job!


----------



## Bogga

Shawnb99 said:


> lol that was an easy fix. Good job!


That was the only difference between FAN1 and FAN2. Four be quiet! Silent Wings 3 High Speed PWM, connected to a Phobya 4-Pin PWM-splitter and then to the aquaero, but one had an extension cable and one didn't... I thought, hell no, can't be this easy! But if it's one thing I've learnt through all these years is that even though how silly a solution sounds, try it out, it just might work


----------



## d0mmie

Has anyone of late had problems with AquaSuite X.27 on Quadro acting up? I have problems with the service not starting at boot-up, and I even added a 10 second timer which usually takes care of the problem. But also today I lost connection with the Quadro, it said no USB connection and a reboot was required. I wonder if the unit is dying...


----------



## ManniX-ITA

d0mmie said:


> Has anyone of late had problems with AquaSuite X.27 on Quadro acting up? I have problems with the service not starting at boot-up, and I even added a 10 second timer which usually takes care of the problem. But also today I lost connection with the Quadro, it said no USB connection and a reboot was required. I wonder if the unit is dying...


Couldn't be something else, more system related, if the service doesn't start at boot?
Shouldn't be a problem if the Quadro is connected after Aquasuite is already started.
Pretty sure if I disconnect and reconnect something I don't have to restart, only a message about USB disconnections is shown.
I'd try to replace the USB connection cable and maybe use another port on the mainboard if available.


----------



## indyjones

Apologies if asked before. I am currently planning my new build and there is not a logical place for my Aquero 6 pro. Now obviously I can mod something, and that was my original plan, but does the octo now effectively replace the Aquero? The only thing I can think of is the Aquero does both pwm and voltage fan control, although I only need pwm.
Is there anything else I would lose switching to an octo? 
I am also running a D5 next, a pressure sensor, and will pick up one of their new flow sensors when available.

Thank you


----------



## ManniX-ITA

indyjones said:


> Apologies if asked before. I am currently planning my new build and there is not a logical place for my Aquero 6 pro. Now obviously I can mod something, and that was my original plan, but does the octo now effectively replace the Aquero? The only thing I can think of is the Aquero does both pwm and voltage fan control, although I only need pwm.
> Is there anything else I would lose switching to an octo?
> I am also running a D5 next, a pressure sensor, and will pick up one of their new flow sensors when available.
> 
> Thank you


They are very different... not sure if you can connect everything.
But wouldn't be a better option just to remove the LCD display and keep using the Aqauaero?


----------



## InfoSeeker

indyjones said:


> Apologies if asked before. I am currently planning my new build and there is not a logical place for my Aquero 6 pro. Now obviously I can mod something, and that was my original plan, but does the octo now effectively replace the Aquero? The only thing I can think of is the Aquero does both pwm and voltage fan control, although I only need pwm.
> Is there anything else I would lose switching to an octo?
> I am also running a D5 next, a pressure sensor, and will pick up one of their new flow sensors when available.
> 
> Thank you


As mentioned by Manix, you can easily turn the PRO into an aquaero LT by simply removing the face-plate and mounting tabs, or if you haven;t bought it yet, just get the LT.

Some differences that come to mind:

aquaero can do 2.5 amps per port (10 amps), OCTO has 8 ports, but a total of 8 amps
only aquaero has aquabus, but all the devices you list appear to have USB also
only aquaero has virtual sensors in firmware, but both can use the Playground in the aquasuite
aquaero has 2 dedicated High Flow sensor inputs, the OCTO has 1, but USB brings all
aquaero has alarms, Octo does not
aquaero has only a single RGB output, OCTO has 2 RGBpx ports
aquaero has 8 temp inputs, OCTO has 4
aquaero has a Relay output, OCTO does not
aquaero does voltage control, OCTO does not
There may be other differences, but they escape me atm.

Prior to aquasuite implementing Virtual Software Sensors, I would opt for the aquaero LT, but now the OCTO fills my needs as cooling loop controller, and is my default 'go to' controller.


----------



## Circaflex

still loving my aquaero after all of these years. 26 gentle typhoons, two ddcs, temp sensor and curves setup. Love this thing


----------



## Shoggy

ManniX-ITA said:


> But wouldn't be a better option just to remove the LCD display and keep using the Aqauaero?


A little warning when doing this: the aquaero should be at first set up with the aquasuite software (installing it is enough) before the display will be removed. The reason is the applied time frame for the free updates. When the display is being removed and it will contact the license server this way at first, it will only get the shorter runtime of the LT variant. When this is done first with the display in place everything will be correct.


----------



## indyjones

Shoggy said:


> A little warning when doing this: the aquaero should be at first set up with the aquasuite software (installing it is enough) before the display will be removed. The reason is the applied time frame for the free updates. When the display is being removed at it will contact the license server this way at first, it will only get the shorter runtime of the LT variant. When this is done first with the display in place everything will be correct.


Thanks for the heads up, but given I have been running it over 6 years the free updates have long since finished  

Does not seem to be clear cut on if an octo is a replacement or not, will have to have a think on it. Got plenty of time as waiting on a 3080


----------



## Jiipper

Hi!

I have Aquaero 5LT and planning to buy Aqua Computer Octo for expand.

Also planning to buy Alpenföhn Wing Boost 3 ARGB fans.
Can i control those rgb lights with Octo?

Or are there some other good rgb fans in that price range that i could use with octo?

I have 1x 360mm rad and 1x 240mm rad, 5 fans for rads and 5 fans just moving air to and from case.


----------



## Mxj1

Jiipper said:


> Hi!
> 
> I have Aquaero 5LT and planning to buy Aqua Computer Octo for expand.
> 
> Also planning to buy Alpenföhn Wing Boost 3 ARGB fans.
> Can i control those rgb lights with Octo?
> 
> Or are there some other good rgb fans in that price range that i could use with octo?
> 
> I have 1x 360mm rad and 1x 240mm rad, 5 fans for rads and 5 fans just moving air to and from case.


Aquacomputer 53282 will allow you to adapt the RGBpx connector to a standard 5v, 3 pin RGB header.


----------



## Jiipper

Mxj1 said:


> Aquacomputer 53282 will allow you to adapt the RGBpx connector to a standard 5v, 3 pin RGB header.


The alpenfönh fans have this connector, so i need that (53282 adapter) to connect it to octo?

What else do i need when connecting those 10 rgb fans to octo? There are only 2 RBGpx headers so do i need some kind of splitter for those?

Im totally out of knowledge when it comes to these new rgb things.


----------



## DNMock

When was the last time the Aquaero got an update to it? The most recent unit, the 6XL or whatever, looks exactly like the 4 I had 7 years ago...


----------



## Mxj1

Jiipper said:


> The alpenfönh fans have this connector, so i need that (53282 adapter) to connect it to octo?
> 
> What else do i need when connecting those 10 rgb fans to octo? There are only 2 RBGpx headers so do i need some kind of splitter for those?
> 
> Im totally out of knowledge when it comes to these new rgb things.


53282 converts the RGBpx connector into a standard 3 pin 5v connector (which is what your fan connector appears to be). You'll also want to grab either a 53260 (10 cm) or 53261 (50 cm), or 53266 (200 cm) cable. One end of the cable plugs into the Octo, the other end plugs into 53282. You'll get two RGBpx channels on the octo. You can control the channels individually.


----------



## Jubijub

I'm considering upgrading my setup with new Ryzens / nvidia gear.

I have an "old style" setup based on a AQ6 driving 3 groups of fans with splitty9, 2 pumps, 1 high flow sensor, and a few temp sensors.
I use Linux as well as Windows, so I need my computer to regulate the WC system even when Aquasuite is not running.

What I envision :

dual loop with 1 D5 next + 1 ultitube D5 pro for each
2 next flow sensors
cuplex kryos next + kryographics next

My questions is about the RGBpx part of the setup :

is there anyway I can set the led color to reflect the water temp of the loop (which I understand will be given by the flow sensor), and so even if Aquasuite is not running ?
I consider Corsair ML RGB fans : is there a good way to drive all LEDs of those fans with Splitty4 RGBpx ?


----------



## _Killswitch_

Hello,
I just got a Aquaero 6 XT software X.29 maybe someone can help with setting the Aquaero up for im wanting to use it for.
Cpu: 8700K w/ EK 360 AIO with with push/pull fan setup 
Case: Caselabs STH10 - 3 fans infront as intake, and 1 fan in back as intake.
GPU FE RTX 3080 (if this matters any)
idea heat rises so have 4 fans as intake lowest part of case and AIO fans exhausting it out the top. CPU stays cool in this method but up for any ideas that may improve my systems cooling.
anyways what i was wanting to do is set fan curves to ramp as system/cpu temps go up. Can't find the how to reach the fan curve part in the Aquasuite? I don't have splitty/Octo so am i missing something here?


----------



## Bogga

You configure that under "Controllers". Choose the "Data source" you want the fans to respond to 

Hope that was the answer you were looking for?


----------



## Bogga

_Killswitch_ said:


> Hello,
> I just got a Aquaero 6 XT software X.29 maybe someone can help with setting the Aquaero up for im wanting to use it for.
> Cpu: 8700K w/ EK 360 AIO with with push/pull fan setup
> Case: Caselabs STH10 - 3 fans infront as intake, and 1 fan in back as intake.
> GPU FE RTX 3080 (if this matters any)
> idea heat rises so have 4 fans as intake lowest part of case and AIO fans exhausting it out the top. CPU stays cool in this method but up for any ideas that may improve my systems cooling.
> anyways what i was wanting to do is set fan curves to ramp as system/cpu temps go up. Can't find the how to reach the fan curve part in the Aquasuite? I don't have splitty/Octo so am i missing something here?
> View attachment 2464296


See my reply above... sry for double post


----------



## _Killswitch_

Bogga said:


> See my reply above... sry for double post


Thanks Bogga it did & k another silly question my EK 360 AIO can't be hooked to the Aquaero can it?


----------



## Biggu

Hi all, Im looking for a discontinued D5 pump, Aquacomputer D5 Pump with USB and Aquabus Interface (AQ-41093). Anyone have an extra one laying around they would sell?


----------



## Driosenth

Biggu said:


> Hi all, Im looking for a discontinued D5 pump, Aquacomputer D5 Pump with USB and Aquabus Interface (AQ-41093). Anyone have an extra one laying around they would sell?


I wish you good luck trying to track one down. I was so disappointed when I heard they were discontinued but after snagging a pair off ebay I can understand why.
I get slightly less control with them compared to a regular PWM pump because I can't set the PWM directly, slightly narrowing the RPM range possible on the low end.

My suggestion is to get a regular PWM D5 and hook it up either to an Aquero fan header directly or through an Octo controller. You will probably save money compared to what you would send on a second-hand D5 with an Aquabus interface.


----------



## Biggu

Driosenth said:


> I wish you good luck trying to track one down. I was so disappointed when I heard they were discontinued but after snagging a pair off ebay I can understand why.
> I get slightly less control with them compared to a regular PWM pump because I can't set the PWM directly, slightly narrowing the RPM range possible on the low end.
> 
> My suggestion is to get a regular PWM D5 and hook it up either to an Aquero fan header directly or through an Octo controller. You will probably save money compared to what you would send on a second-hand D5 with an Aquabus interface.


Ive actually got one already and will be hooking it up with the Aquaero 6XT for a dual loop setup which is why I wanted another one.


----------



## ppkstat

Hello

I'll be building an new system with external watercooling in the near future and all the fans are going to be controlled by my aquaero 5 LT. Rad fans are going to be controlled by water temp or ater/air delta obviously but what happens in the case of case fans when all the major heat load is dumped outside of the case? I still need SOME cooling for all the pasivelly cooled components like the VRMs, RAM, M2 SSDs etc. How am I going to select a source temp for these things? I could also link them to the water temp, sure however that doesn't seem very optimal to me. I want the system to be as silent as possible and therefore I want to avoid running fans higher than absolutely needed.
If you have any ideas please chime in. Thank you!


----------



## ManniX-ITA

ppkstat said:


> Hello
> 
> I'll be building an new system with external watercooling in the near future and all the fans are going to be controlled by my aquaero 5 LT. Rad fans are going to be controlled by water temp or ater/air delta obviously but what happens in the case of case fans when all the major heat load is dumped outside of the case? I still need SOME cooling for all the pasivelly cooled components like the VRMs, RAM, M2 SSDs etc. How am I going to select a source temp for these things? I could also link them to the water temp, sure however that doesn't seem very optimal to me. I want the system to be as silent as possible and therefore I want to avoid running fans higher than absolutely needed.
> If you have any ideas please chime in. Thank you!


You should have 8 temperature sensor inputs and 4 x 70cm temperature sensors with your aquaero.
Best would be to stick them to and monitor the RAM, VRM, M2 etc and change the fans speed accordingly.


----------



## ppkstat

ManniX-ITA said:


> You should have 8 temperature sensor inputs and 4 x 70cm temperature sensors with your aquaero.
> Best would be to stick them to and monitor the RAM, VRM, M2 etc and change the fans speed accordingly.


Sure I can just stick sensors, that's not an issue if you don't mind the aisthetics of course. Most of these things have software sensors anyway. The problem remains though, how do you intergrate all these values? It sounds like you need an algorithm for all these in order to decide the fan power😅


----------



## ManniX-ITA

ppkstat said:


> Sure I can just stick sensors, that's not an issue if you don't mind the aisthetics of course. Most of these things have software sensors anyway. The problem remains though, how do you intergrate all these values? It sounds like you need an algorithm for all these in order to decide the fan power😅


In aquasuite you can create a virtual sensor with mode average or max temperature from 3 sensors.
Then you can use the virtual sensor to control the fan.


----------



## Driosenth

ppkstat said:


> Sure I can just stick sensors, that's not an issue if you don't mind the aisthetics of course. Most of these things have software sensors anyway. The problem remains though, how do you intergrate all these values? It sounds like you need an algorithm for all these in order to decide the fan power😅


You would do that through a Curve Controller in aquasuite (Aquaero Main -> Controllers -> "Add ⨁" button in the top right of the screen -> Curve controller"). A new pane called "Curve controller - Curve controller #" should appear. The temperature that needs to be controlled is added in the "Data Source" sub-pane in the upper-left. Fan output is selected with the "Outputs ⨁" button in the upper-right button. The pane has the button options "≡ automatic setup" and "≡ manual setup" to modify the curve fitting.


----------



## ppkstat

Driosenth said:


> Curve Controller in aquasuite (Aquaero Main -> Controllers -> "Add ⨁" button in the top right of the screen -> Curve controller"). A new pane called "Curve controller - Curve controller #" should appear. The temperature that needs to be controlled is added in the "Data Source" sub-pane in the upper-left. Fan output is selected with the "Outputs ⨁" button in the upper-right button. The pane has the b


I know how to set up a curve controller, I am using them with the aquaero on my current system. The issue is that it's not very clear to me how to control fans based on the temperature of components that operate well at different temperature ranges. For example 70 deg celcius might be ok for the VRM's but not for the SSD. This is a random example but when you try to base your fan speed based on the temperature of 4-5 components things start to become a bit complicated. Creating a virtual sensor with average temp doesn’t seem to solve the issue, maybe using the max temperature will yield better results, I am not sure.

I was wondering if there's an optimal strategy for this. I can always also tie them to water/air delta and perform some test to check if they remain in acceptable ranges. For example by loading the SSD with minimal GPU and CPU load or something along these lines. It's a whole new situation for me.


----------



## Driosenth

ppkstat said:


> I know how to set up a curve controller, I am using them with the aquaero on my current system. The issue is that it's not very clear to me how to control fans based on the temperature of components that operate well at different temperature ranges. For example 70 deg celcius might be ok for the VRM's but not for the SSD. This is a random example but when you try to base your fan speed based on the temperature of 4-5 components things start to become a bit complicated. Creating a virtual sensor with average temp doesn’t seem to solve the issue, maybe using the max temperature will yield better results, I am not sure.
> 
> I was wondering if there's an optimal strategy for this. I can always also tie them to water/air delta and perform some test to check if they remain in acceptable ranges. For example by loading the SSD with minimal GPU and CPU load or something along these lines. It's a whole new situation for me.


Ah, I understand now. Unfortunately there is no way that I am aware of to have multiple curve controllers output to the same fan/pump.

My best recommendation is to work with the Virtual Software Sensors Tab. You could have all the temperatures as an inputs, scale and bias all but one so that given the expected temperatures ranges are equal to the unscaled and unbiased temperature, and have the virtual sensor output the maximum of those values.








In this example I have scaled and biased the VRM and RAM to match the M.2 SSD.


----------



## ManniX-ITA

ppkstat said:


> I know how to set up a curve controller, I am using them with the aquaero on my current system. The issue is that it's not very clear to me how to control fans based on the temperature of components that operate well at different temperature ranges. For example 70 deg celcius might be ok for the VRM's but not for the SSD. This is a random example but when you try to base your fan speed based on the temperature of 4-5 components things start to become a bit complicated. Creating a virtual sensor with average temp doesn’t seem to solve the issue, maybe using the max temperature will yield better results, I am not sure.
> 
> I was wondering if there's an optimal strategy for this. I can always also tie them to water/air delta and perform some test to check if they remain in acceptable ranges. For example by loading the SSD with minimal GPU and CPU load or something along these lines. It's a whole new situation for me.


Maybe it's not relevant in your case but the thermal sensors and virtual sensors will work without aquasuite running.
If you want to use the sensors from the motherboard, memory, ssd they'll be read only once the aquasuite service is started.
There's also the playground; you can design your own sensor and apply a weighting value to normalize the different inputs.
Then you can decide what to do with it, extract an average or a max or else.


----------



## ppkstat

Well no playground for me! I bought mine back in 15 so it’s stuck with the 2016 version. Seems I have to buy the new software version.

It is relevant in my case and I know that windows/software must be running in order for the aquasuite to get the values but I am sure that if you set the case fans at something like 40% during startup it’s going to be fine. None of these components will output a lot of heat during startup anyway.

Thanks to everyone for their help, I am surprised that I am the only one facing the issue.


----------



## war4peace

ppkstat said:


> Well no playground for me! I bought mine back in 15 so it’s stuck with the 2016 version. Seems I have to buy the new software version.
> 
> It is relevant in my case and I know that windows/software must be running in order for the aquasuite to get the values but I am sure that if you set the case fans at something like 40% during startup it’s going to be fine. None of these components will output a lot of heat during startup anyway.
> 
> Thanks to everyone for their help, I am surprised that I am the only one facing the issue.


The most recent version is not really that expensive.
As for case fans, I didn't have any case fans in my Thermaltake Core X5, and I don't have case fans in my current build either. The radiator is external, so you could say airflow is simply not there. However, my VRMs are watercooled, but the PCH still goes above 60 degrees Celsius, and the SSDs are passively cooled with those little heatsinks, they get fairly hot but no problems since 2016 when I bought the first one.


----------



## Barefooter

ppkstat said:


> I know how to set up a curve controller, I am using them with the aquaero on my current system. The issue is that it's not very clear to me how to control fans based on the temperature of components that operate well at different temperature ranges. For example 70 deg celcius might be ok for the VRM's but not for the SSD. This is a random example but when you try to base your fan speed based on the temperature of 4-5 components things start to become a bit complicated. Creating a virtual sensor with average temp doesn’t seem to solve the issue, maybe using the max temperature will yield better results, I am not sure.
> 
> I was wondering if there's an optimal strategy for this. *I can always also tie them to water/air delta and perform some test to check if they remain in acceptable ranges.* For example by loading the SSD with minimal GPU and CPU load or something along these lines. It's a whole new situation for me.


Water/Air delta is the easiest way and then you can adjust your curves if necessary if any of your components are getting to warm for you.

This also keeps the fans from ramping up and down quickly which can be quite annoying.


----------



## Shawnb99

Might of gone a bit overboard


----------



## Barefooter

^ Now that's a nice order!


----------



## Shawnb99

Was over a few orders. I got even more from my tear down. 
Still will be rock 3 Aqueros and 6 D5 Next’s. 
Will have a nice collection to sell after


----------



## DaLiu

I am planning a build with 2 radiators (6 noctua fans), I don't want any kind of RGB in my build, wondering if D5 Next will be enough for me to power the fans and setup the fans curve with the water temp using the internal sensor of the D5 next. Any recommendation will be much appreciate it.


----------



## Leo Rodrigues

Hello, I understand that a display can be attached to a 6LT. Its is on the display assembly that the IR sensor sits...Will that IR sensor be active after the display is installed or is that something that will never work on an LT unit that has had a display installed?


----------



## InfoSeeker

Leo Rodrigues said:


> Hello, I understand that a display can be attached to a 6LT. Its is on the display assembly that the IR sensor sits...Will that IR sensor be active after the display is installed or is that something that will never work on an LT unit that has had a display installed?


Adding the XT or PRO face plate converts the LT into an XT or PRO, and you would be able to use an aquaremote infrared remote control device with the converted device.


----------



## Shoggy

Please note that not all LT boards can be converted to a PRO/XT. Some LT boards are LT boards because their display interface does not work correctly or they do not even have a display port at all.


----------



## InfoSeeker

Shoggy said:


> Please note that not all LT boards can be converted to a PRO/XT. Some LT boards are LT boards because their display interface does not work correctly or they do not even have a display port at all.


Oh, that is news to me, thank you for that info... is there a way to determine this other than by adding a display?


----------



## Avacado

@Shoggy Are there any vendors carrying the NEXT Flow sensor here in the states? I'm wanting to give you my money, but sadly I can't find it.


----------



## InfoSeeker

Avacado said:


> @Shoggy Are there any vendors carrying the NEXT Flow sensor here in the states? I'm wanting to give you my money, but sadly I can't find it.


ModMyMods is taking pre-orders, anticipating delivery "early 2021".


----------



## Leo Rodrigues

Has anyone ever tried to incorporate the *aquaero power connect - 24 pin ATX standby power connector into a custom cable to reduce the bulkiness?*


----------



## Shoggy

InfoSeeker said:


> Oh, that is news to me, thank you for that info... is there a way to determine this other than by adding a display?


If there is no display port on the board you would see this of course. With a port being installed, there is no way to check its functionality without attaching a display.



Avacado said:


> @Shoggy Are there any vendors carrying the NEXT Flow sensor here in the states? I'm wanting to give you my money, but sadly I can't find it.


I am not aware of any resellers that have them available.


----------



## Streetdragon

Soooooo my aquacomputer wanted a softwareupdate. ok
Then it made a softwareupdate on my octo. Didnt worked. Error message while update.
Now the LED is blinking and NOTHING work. Wow.... I need my computer for work

edit:
nevermind. Amazon RMA


----------



## Section31

I noticed an odd line of bubbles that could be possible hair line fracture within the ultitube. Felt the outside and no indication of fracture. 
Anyone thought or my eyes playing tricks on me.

The line in question is in middle of the reservoir.


----------



## Shawnb99

Could just be bubbles stuck there, see if flicking the glass dislodges them and if the reappear. No leak test by air before you added the water? Pump in a few PSI and you should find even the smallest leaks, finding where that leaks is is a mother story


----------



## Section31

Disregard fixed issue. The bucket i used to drain the water had (and repour) had some hair particles in it.


----------



## Leo Rodrigues

Shoggy said:


> If there is no display port on the board you would see this of course. With a port being installed, there is no way to check its functionality without attaching a display.


I do have display pins on the board, so i'm certain that portion should not be an issue. To simplify testing if the display port is active, i can just power the computer down and plug molex power on Aq 6 unit and i should get a result (lights up or not), or do i need to plug anything else?


----------



## Section31

Finally got the flow meter all working and i will say it is very useful monitoring tool.


----------



## Leo Rodrigues

Section31 said:


> Finally got the flow meter all working and i will say it is very useful monitoring tool.


 Which flow meter was that? Water Quality, I like that.


----------



## Section31

Next Flow Meter


----------



## bern43

Is the only option for shipping from the AC store UPS Express now? Looking to get one of the new flow meters and the shipping is more than the meter.


----------



## Shawnb99

bern43 said:


> Is the only option for shipping from the AC store UPS Express now? Looking to get one of the new flow meters and the shipping is more than the meter.


Contact them directly for a cheaper rate. To Canada the only option is DHL Express starting at $45 euro. It helps if you are buying a bunch of stuff otherwise yeah the shipping is a killer.


----------



## Section31

bern43 said:


> Is the only option for shipping from the AC store UPS Express now? Looking to get one of the new flow meters and the shipping is more than the meter.


DHL Express option is based on weight so its possible for it to be cheaper, It costed me 20ish euro to only ship flow meter. I have also done 10euro regular air mail shipping from them. Talk with Sven at aquacomputer


----------



## Streetdragon

@Shoggy 
I got my replacment Octo. Working perfectly now!

Now i have a little question: I plugged in my old Aquaero 6 Pro via USB only to use the Screen for some temp readings.
Works good, but i wanna monitor the Fanspeeds too. How can i link the fanspeeds from from the octo to the aquaero?


----------



## Leo Rodrigues

Is there a benefit from keeping the Aquaero hooked up to the USB Header?
What about an Aquastream Ultra XT and (or) High Flow Sensor with Aquabus and USB? Am i better off keeping all this on the Aquabus or would one of these benefit from being on USB?


----------



## Bartdude

Leo Rodrigues said:


> Is there a benefit from keeping the Aquaero hooked up to the USB Header?
> What about an Aquastream Ultra XT and (or) High Flow Sensor with Aquabus and USB? Am i better off keeping all this on the Aquabus or would one of these benefit from being on USB?


The only benefit leaving USB attached is each time there is a firmware update, which of late has been pretty regular  and the fact that plugging it in n out is a mare!


----------



## dng25

Bartdude said:


> The only benefit leaving USB attached is each time there is a firmware update, which of late has been pretty regular  and the fact that plugging it in n out is a mare!


I wish they verified via aquabus somehow..


----------



## InfoSeeker

Streetdragon said:


> @Shoggy
> I got my replacment Octo. Working perfectly now!
> 
> Now i have a little question: I plugged in my old Aquaero 6 Pro via USB only to use the Screen for some temp readings.
> Works good, but i wanna monitor the Fanspeeds too. How can i link the fanspeeds from from the octo to the aquaero?


You could use the aquabus connection, but then you go from 8 curve controllers to 4.

Another option is to pass fan RPM via Software.Sensors, but this requires converting RPM to temperature (Software.Sensors only accept temperature).

Convert RPM/100 (max temp allowed is 120 °C?) to temp
Import to Aquaero Software.Sensor (1-8 available)
Display on aquaero screen
The display will have °C as the unit and will need to be multiplied by 100. Due to Software.Sensors allowing only 1 decimal digit, you will loose the unit value accuracy.

Convert RPM/100 to °C:









Import to Software.Sensor:









Display on aquaero:


----------



## Streetdragon

Tried the second Option, but somehow i dont like it^^ RPM in C° looks confusing, when its shiftig between the real temps and the fans^^


----------



## InfoSeeker

Streetdragon said:


> Tried the second Option, but somehow i dont like it^^ RPM in C° looks confusing, when its shiftig between the real temps and the fans^^


Yea, I tried using °F (for Fans ), but the Playground converts all temps to °C at the final output. It's the same with flow, what ever unit you design in the Playground, lpm, gpm, gph, it is converted to lph for the final output. Thinking this was a bug, I reported it to aquacomputer, and was 'firmly' advised it was by design. Not sure why, but...


----------



## kundica

Anyone having issues with profiles? I'm on X.29 and profiles don't seem to be working. If I save settings to Profile 1 then change the settings and save to Profile 2, both profiles have the settings I made for Profile 2. It's like they're not saving at all and just using whatever I'm currently set to.


----------



## Section31

Leo Rodrigues said:


> Is there a benefit from keeping the Aquaero hooked up to the USB Header?
> What about an Aquastream Ultra XT and (or) High Flow Sensor with Aquabus and USB? Am i better off keeping all this on the Aquabus or would one of these benefit from being on USB?


I ended up just getting an usb hub and buying the aquabus vision to usb type a cable. Solves all my issues. That's how I get 5-6 devices connected to aquasuite and they even allow me to update it. My motherboard only has two usb headers.


----------



## Shawnb99

I’ll be using two Hubby7’s to connect the 10 devices I have that will need USB.


----------



## Shoggy

Streetdragon said:


> Soooooo my aquacomputer wanted a softwareupdate. ok
> Then it made a softwareupdate on my octo. Didnt worked. Error message while update.
> Now the LED is blinking and NOTHING work. Wow.... I need my computer for work


The blinking LED indicates that the device is in flash mode which means the update failed and in 99% of such cases it is an unstable USB connection. Changing the port could help or using a different PC which pretty much solves this every time. The device can be easily programmed again with the aquasuite when in flash mode.



Leo Rodrigues said:


> I do have display pins on the board, so i'm certain that portion should not be an issue. To simplify testing if the display port is active, i can just power the computer down and plug molex power on Aq 6 unit and i should get a result (lights up or not), or do i need to plug anything else?


I am nor sure what you men by lights up. To be able to tell if the display port works you have to connect a display.



bern43 said:


> Is the only option for shipping from the AC store UPS Express now? Looking to get one of the new flow meters and the shipping is more than the meter.


DHL Express or registered airmail are possible alternatives. You will have to contact us by e-mail since these shipping options are not available via the webshop.



Streetdragon said:


> Now i have a little question: I plugged in my old Aquaero 6 Pro via USB only to use the Screen for some temp readings.
> Works good, but i wanna monitor the Fanspeeds too. How can i link the fanspeeds from from the octo to the aquaero?


This is not possible. You can only link temperature values as software sensor to the aquaero.



Leo Rodrigues said:


> Is there a benefit from keeping the Aquaero hooked up to the USB Header?
> What about an Aquastream Ultra XT and (or) High Flow Sensor with Aquabus and USB? Am i better off keeping all this on the Aquabus or would one of these benefit from being on USB?


Disconnecting the aquaero from USB seems does not make much sense to me because you will lose complete access to it.
The aquabus offers only a very limited functionality. It is always better to have a USB connection (in addition).


----------



## rioja

It looks that product description of all AE6 versions isn’t accurate with typos





aquaero 6 XT black/blue USB Fan-Controller, Grafik-LCD, Touch-Bedienung, IR-Fernbedienung


aquaero 6 XT black/blue USB Fan-Controller, Grafik-LCD, Touch-Bedienung, IR-Fernbedienung: Schon seit dem Verkaufsstart im Jahr 2004 steht der Name "aquaero" für die absolute Oberklasse unter den Lüftersteuerungen. Die neueste Generation, das aquaero 6, legt die Messlatte noch einmal deutlich...




shop.aquacomputer.de





it says 


> All fan outputs with 4-Pin plug, switchable between *coltage* and PWM control





> Several Aqua Computer products can be used to expand the functionality of the *aquaero 5 *Controller


Just fo info @Shoggy 

And what I try to understand, it says that 


> The aquaero can control a total of:
> 12 fan outputs
> 64 temperature sensors
> 6 pumps
> 14 flow sensors


I need to control 12 fans via pwm and also 2 pumps via pwm, and have all these 14 devices in total as independent devices in Aquasuite
My pumps are standard D5 PWM versions
Will I be able to control 12 pwm fans and 2 pwm pumps or I need to get D5 pumps with aquabus support?
PA3 looks won’t work here since it controls by voltage not pwm


----------



## InfoSeeker

rioja said:


> {snip}
> I need to control 12 fans via pwm and also 2 pumps via pwm, and have all these 14 devices in total as independent devices in Aquasuite
> My pumps are standard D5 PWM versions
> Will I be able to control 12 pwm fans and 2 pwm pumps or I need to get D5 pumps with aquabus support?
> PA3 looks won’t work here since it controls by voltage not pwm


Does each of the 12 fans requires a separate controller?

If you can place a set of 6 fans (push/pull rad 1) on 1 curve controller (splitty9), and a 2nd set of 6 fans (push/pull rad 2) on a 2nd controller (splitty9), you will have two fan ports unused on the aquaero. Then you would have the option to place each pump on it's own port, or both pumps on a single fan port, leaving you with one unused port..

If that is not how your system is configured, perhaps an OCTO (sans aquabus), in place of two D5 Next pumps.


----------



## rioja

InfoSeeker said:


> Does each of the 12 fans requires a separate controller?


Well, if it‘s possible I would like to have each fan on separate channel and not using a splitter
My future config two 560 rads and two 280 fans, this is already 12 fans (I probably would install even 13th fan as case exhaust but at least need 12)
And I wonder which pumps it is when saying


> The aquaero can control a total of:
> 12 fan outputs
> 6 pumps


Is it aquaero pumps, pumps by voltage regulator not PWM or standard PWM pumps?
The situation is worse because for some reason I can’t find Aquaero or USB D5 pumps, are they discontinued?
Only D5 Next available, it is fine but it looks they are not compatible with pump cover like in SC D5 res+top combo

I need to fit 2 pumps under these covers


----------



## Shawnb99

rioja said:


> Well, if it‘s possible I would like to have each fan on separate channel and not using a splitter
> My future config two 560 rads and two 280 fans, this is already 12 fans (I probably would install even 13th fan as case exhaust but at least need 12)
> And I wonder which pumps it is when saying
> 
> Is it aquaero pumps, pumps by voltage regulator not PWM or standard PWM pumps?
> The situation is worse because for some reason I can’t find Aquaero or USB D5 pumps, are they discontinued?
> Only D5 Next available, it is fine but it looks they are not compatible with pump cover like in SC D5 res+top combo
> 
> I need to fit 2 pumps under these covers
> View attachment 2469041



Why do you need to individually control each fan if they are going onto a radiator in push pull? All the fans on the radiator should spin the same speed so controlling each individually is way more work then its worth. Connect all the fans on one radiator to a splitter and then set the speed for just that radiator. For that you'll only need a channel for each radiator and pump.


----------



## rioja

Shawnb99 said:


> For that you'll only need a channel for each radiator and pump.


If I connect, for example, 4 fans on the same rad to one splitter then I will know real speed only one of the fans while I’d like to see individual speed of each one
If I could find normal D5 with aquabus connector, it would be a solution. Or if D5 Next could work without control unit attached so that I can put it under pump cover, it would also be fine


----------



## Shawnb99

rioja said:


> If I connect, for example, 4 fans on the same rad to one splitter then I will know real speed only one of the fans while I’d like to see individual speed of each one


Ok if that’s what you want. Just pointing out when all are running the same speed you’re wasting channels by controlling each one. You shouldn’t run individual fans on a radiator at different speeds hence why you daisy chain them and only read the PWM off one. 

In that case add an extra Octo or Quadro for more channel’s


----------



## rioja

Shawnb99 said:


> You shouldn’t run individual fans on a radiator at different speeds hence why you daisy chain them and only read the PWM off one.


Yep all fans in each loop will be at the same speed I guess, ie on each pair of rads considering that CPU/mobo loop is on 560+280 rads and GPU is on another pair of 560+280
But if to talk about full control on fans then we need to know individual speed of each fun)

I can get LT6 and Octo, it will give 12 pwm channels but then I need to add two D5s
Is there an option to plug normal D5 PWM to aquabus? PA3 can do this thing but use voltage regulation only as per their description


----------



## Shawnb99

For extra channels grab a Quadro, you don’t need to connect it to the Aquero, just run it separately and that’s 4 more channels.

Is there a specific reason you want to control each fan individually? Just curious


----------



## InfoSeeker

rioja said:


> Well, if it‘s possible I would like to have each fan on separate channel and not using a splitter
> My future config two 560 rads and two 280 fans, this is already 12 fans (I probably would install even 13th fan as case exhaust but at least need 12)
> And I wonder which pumps it is when saying
> 
> Is it aquaero pumps, pumps by voltage regulator not PWM or standard PWM pumps?
> The situation is worse because for some reason I can’t find Aquaero or USB D5 pumps, are they discontinued?
> Only D5 Next available, it is fine but it looks they are not compatible with pump cover like in SC D5 res+top combo
> 
> I need to fit 2 pumps under these covers
> View attachment 2469041


The aquaero 6 is still marketed by aquacomputer, the USB D5 pump is not, it has been replaced by the D5 NEXT.

You could use the D5 PWM Pumps with those two reservoirs.

If you want to monitor/control each fan individually, I would suggest getting 2 OCTOs and forgo the aquaero.

The functions you reference listed on the product page include adding every auxiliary device available onto an aquaero, but there are many limitations. It would serve your understanding of the aquaero greatly if you were to read the complete manual.


----------



## rioja

I forgot to mention that I plan to use 2 flowmeters, two watertemp sensors, several airtemp sensors, several rgb strips and want to combine all it in one unit and control rpm fans, rpm pumps, rgb lights depending on temperatures etc so I guess Aquasuite is the only option

Here is my conceptual schema of all connections - 12 fans, 2 pumps, 2 flow sensors, 2 water sensors, 3 airtemp sensors and several rgb strips












Shawnb99 said:


> Is there a specific reason you want to control each fan individually? Just curious


Nope, just a false sense of total control)



InfoSeeker said:


> You could use the D5 PWM Pumps with those two reservoirs


Yep I already have two brand new D5 pwm pumps and I wanted to know whether swapping to aquabus/usb versions will give me any benefit and it turned out that they just not available anymore and there is D5 Next only which isn’t compatible with covers, correct?


Spoiler: Here is some photos how exceptional they look =)


----------



## InfoSeeker

For the EU forum members looking for a High Flow NEXT, highflow.nl appears to have them in stock ATM.

I would order one, but for some reason shipping costs from the EU to the USA appear to be stupidly exorbitant across the board... not sure why, but it is what it is, and commerce suffers accordingly.


----------



## Bartdude

Your D5 PWM pumps will work fine with Aquaero/Octo etc as long as they are PWM Intel spec.


----------



## rioja

Bartdude said:


> Your D5 PWM pumps will work fine with Aquaero/Octo etc as long as they are PWM Intel spec.


Will they take pwm channel? I want to keep 12 pwm channels (4 on Aquaero and 8 on Octo) for fans and also use 2 pumps somehow, preferably using pwm mode not voltage
I am rely on their statement that


> The aquaero can control a total of 12 fan outputs and 6 pumps


----------



## InfoSeeker

rioja said:


> Will they take pwm channel? I want to keep 12 pwm channels (4 on Aquaero and 8 on Octo) for fans and also use 2 pumps somehow, preferably using pwm mode not voltage
> I am rely on their statement that


To achieve the control you wish you may be best served with two octos instead of one aquaero & one octo. With two octos you would have 16 PWM controllers, 12 for radiator fans, 2 for pumps and 2 for case fans.

The statement you relly on:


> The aquaero can control a total of 12 fan outputs and 6 pumps


Requires auxiliary items be added to the aquaero, and then an aquaero 6 will still have only 4 PWM ports.


----------



## Bartdude

Well I know there were issues with the PWM pullup on some D5 pump models, it was actually discussed back in this thread somewhere. I know there was a workaround which was discussed back at about page 301 in this thread I think. What make are your D5's?

EDIT: That should have read page 321  Failing that just do a search for the Diva Mod


----------



## rioja

InfoSeeker said:


> With two octos you would have 16 PWM controllers, 12 for radiator fans, 2 for pumps and 2 for case fans.


This approach would be interesting

You mean I can connect 2 Octos together getting 16 PWM channels in total (12 will go to fans and 2 to pumps) and then add 2 flowsensors, several temp sensors, several rgb sensors and then control all this stuff via aquasuite?

I also wonder about aquasuite license coz I hate yearly subscription model, won’t it be a case here? If there is any subscription, I better quit)


----------



## Section31

rioja said:


> This approach would be interesting
> 
> You mean I can connect 2 Octos together getting 16 PWM channels in total (12 will go to fans and 2 to pumps) and then add 2 flowsensors, several temp sensors, several rgb sensors and then control all this stuff via aquasuite?
> 
> I also wonder about aquasuite license coz I hate yearly subscription model, won’t it be a case here? If there is any subscription, I better quit)


You don't get any updated aquasuite but it still works as is. I'm not even sure what the firmware updates do. Chances are in that time you have the devices, you will either add an device or replace an item so effectively you keep on extending all the items in your ecosystem another year.


----------



## Shawnb99

It would be nice if multiple devices extended your time and added up.


----------



## ManniX-ITA

Section31 said:


> You don't get any updated aquasuite but it still works as is. I'm not even sure what the firmware updates do. Chances are in that time you have the devices, you will either add an device or replace an item so effectively you keep on extending all the items in your ecosystem another year.


Just peek the changelog for Aquasuite X in the last year and get an idea:



New: aquasuite X - English forum - Aqua Computer Forum



I don't like as well the subscription model.
Especially since it's quite convoluted and the time you get from the devices doesn't stack.

But there is a lot of work, constant bugfixing and quite often some new features.
If you compare other manufacturers their software is generally worse, more limited and bugged.
At some point the old products becomes legacy and you'd better dump them in the bin.
Paying a subscription keeps your 10 years old expensive hardware alive and supported in the latest OS releases.

Still, if you can't digest the subscription and don't need a bugfix you can go without.
Many if not most are not paying it for years without any issue.


----------



## InfoSeeker

rioja said:


> This approach would be interesting
> 
> You mean I can connect 2 Octos together getting 16 PWM channels in total (12 will go to fans and 2 to pumps) and then add 2 flowsensors, several temp sensors, several rgb sensors and then control all this stuff via aquasuite?
> 
> I also wonder about aquasuite license coz I hate yearly subscription model, won’t it be a case here? If there is any subscription, I better quit)


Yes, you will have a USB connection to both octos, and you will see both in the aquasuite. The various components would be controllable by the octo they are connected to. You can use Soft.Sensors to pass data between all USB devices.

Each octo has 1 USB port, 8 PWM ports (fans/pumps), 4 temperature ports, 2 rgbpx ports (each port can control 90 aRGB LEDs), and 1 flow sensor port (cable 53212 required for High Flow, USB required for High Flow NEXT).

As to the license, it is 9.90 EUR annually (after it epires from your device). It would be nice if it, and all components, were free, but I find the cost acceptable to keep updates coming. 

Edit: and as* *ManniX-ITA stated, you don't have to update to every update. Just monitor what the update does, and, if your license is expired, renew when you see one that interest you.


----------



## iCrap

Does anyone know if its possible to display the widget / overview page widgets in a web browser / web server? I want to set it up to display on a external display running off a Pi if possible. Not seeing how to do it.


----------



## Shoggy

rioja said:


> Just fo info @Shoggy


Thanks 


iCrap said:


> Does anyone know if its possible to display the widget / overview page widgets in a web browser / web server? I want to set it up to display on a external display running off a Pi if possible. Not seeing how to do it.


This is not possible. You would have to render some graphics yourself. The data can be accessed through the tab aquasuite web. It exports selected data which you can grab from a personalized link as JSON data.


----------



## iCrap

Shoggy said:


> Thanks
> 
> This is not possible. You would have to render some graphics yourself. The data can be accessed through the tab aquasuite web. It exports selected data which you can grab from a personalized link as JSON data.


Any plans to add that? Now that a lot of people are doing in-case LCD displays I think it would be a feature a lot of people will use. 

I figured out how to get the data though web export, although with it being either an image or text string its not very useful for me. I would have to figure out how to do the graphics and charts and stuff. Also what is the refresh rate of this data?


----------



## Shoggy

There are no plans to support this since it is way to special and would require tons of variants to make everyone happy. It is much easier to simply get a small screen from eBay with a HDMI port and to use it as a second monitor where you just display the desktop overlay of the aquasuite.

The refresh rate of the aquasuite web service is 15 seconds.


----------



## rrazer

Hi,
do I have to upload a high quality photo of my rig with the AQ? I have managed to find just this in one of my chats with friends..









Actually it looks awful..
I will make another one and post it - there are also some minor changes..
The ugly cable on the left is actualy an USB connection between the AQ and the MB. (I had to test it if it works).

Nevertheless, I have a question regarding the AQ.
There is also an Aquastream Ultimate and attached to it an Aquainlet XT.
So I want them both to be connected to the Aquaero (which is an 6 XT). It is also equiped with an Aquabus X4 so I can connect them via bus cable.
I can't seem to make them all work together so that the two are connected to the AQ and the AQ is the only one connected via USB to the mainboard.
The pump is not recognized in the Aquasuite and the Aquainlet also. If I connect them directly via USB to the MB - then they are visible in the Aquasuite.
Does someone have had a similar problem?

Kind regards!


----------



## rrazer

Section31 said:


> View attachment 2468189
> 
> 
> I noticed an odd line of bubbles that could be possible hair line fracture within the ultitube. Felt the outside and no indication of fracture.
> Anyone thought or my eyes playing tricks on me.
> 
> The line in question is in middle of the reservoir.


I've had the same/similar. It should be bubbles becase it was gone after 2 days.


----------



## Leo Rodrigues

Shoggy said:


> I am nor sure what you men by lights up. To be able to tell if the display port works you have to connect a display.


I meant that if all was working the Aquaero would light up or turn on...I was hesitant and just wanted to make sure after it was plugged in (without burning something up) that it was working right.
Am all good. Display worked!


----------



## Leo Rodrigues

Has anyone had any experience with changing to the black faceplate on the Aquero XTs? Any best practives to follow. I was under the impression that you are replacing or does it just stick right on top?


----------



## rioja

One question, if I use Octo as standalone device (without AE) and connect fans and pumps to it, can I setup that some pwm inputs are pumps and some are fans?

So that in this window 









They appeared in respective menu items in the left panel - Pumps and Fans


----------



## Shoggy

rrazer said:


> So I want them both to be connected to the Aquaero (which is an 6 XT). It is also equiped with an Aquabus X4 so I can connect them via bus cable.
> I can't seem to make them all work together so that the two are connected to the AQ and the AQ is the only one connected via USB to the mainboard.
> The pump is not recognized in the Aquasuite and the Aquainlet also. If I connect them directly via USB to the MB - then they are visible in the Aquasuite.


When you connect devices only via aquabus they will not get their own device tab in the software like you have it when they are connected via USB. The pump will be just another output that you can assign in the controller tab while the aquainlet will be just another sensor ijput that you can assign in the alarm tab for example.
Maybe check the aquabus tab first. If the devices are listed there, then everything works as it should.



Leo Rodrigues said:


> Has anyone had any experience with changing to the black faceplate on the Aquero XTs? Any best practives to follow. I was under the impression that you are replacing or does it just stick right on top?


The faceplate is fixed with double-sided adhesive tape. Maybe heat it up with a hair dryer so it becomes a bit soft. In the end the only way to remove the face plate is some force.



rioja said:


> One question, if I use Octo as standalone device (without AE) and connect fans and pumps to it, can I setup that some pwm inputs are pumps and some are fans?


No, this is not possible and would also make no difference for the control because the fans and pumps use the same way of PWM control.


----------



## rioja

Shoggy said:


> No, this is not possible and would also make no difference for the control because the fans and pumps use the same way of PWM control.


@Shoggy Could you please recommend me better way out of AC components

*Requirements*
I plan a dual loop watercooling with 2 D5 pumps (standard PWM without Aquabus/USB) which I want to control independently (i e 2 separate curves)
Also there are 4 rads with 12 fans and I would like to control
Option A To control all 12 fans separately (i e 12 more separate curves). Is it possbile? If not, then
Option B To read tacho signal from each of 12 fans but control them by 4 curves (one curve per each rad). Not sure it's possible withoout a splitter)
Option C Group fans with splitter as they placed on rads (4+4+2+2) and read rpm from single fan in each group but control each group by separate curve (i e still 4 more curves)
I also gonna use 2x new high flow Next sensors and read flow and water temp from them.
And I'd like it all to be in Aquasuite and have pumps in Pump menu, fans in Fans menu

*Possible approaches*
1. AE6+Octo. In this case I will have 12 pwm channels but only 4 independent curves, correct?
2. 2x Octos. This way I will have 16 pwm channels and 16 curves? But Octos will be as 2 standalone devices not fully integrated in common unit in Aquasuite

I suspect that if I would use Aquasuite pumps then I could use AE6+Octo for 12 fans/4curves and then connect 2 pumps via aquabus and get 2 more curve for pumps, right? But D5 Next won't fit under pump cover and old Aquasuite D5 is discontinued


Thanks for your advices


----------



## rrazer

Shoggy said:


> When you connect devices only via aquabus they will not get their own device tab in the software like you have it when they are connected via USB. The pump will be just another output that you can assign in the controller tab while the aquainlet will be just another sensor ijput that you can assign in the alarm tab for example.
> Maybe check the aquabus tab first. If the devices are listed there, then everything works as it should.
> 
> 
> The faceplate is fixed with double-sided adhesive tape. Maybe heat it up with a hair dryer so it becomes a bit soft. In the end the only way to remove the face plate is some force.
> 
> 
> No, this is not possible and would also make no difference for the control because the fans and pumps use the same way of PWM control.


Ok,
I've checked it. It is there in the aquabus section.
But nothing in the sensors section.
So I can't use it?


----------



## Leonko

Excuse me for stupid question (i want to be sure), but do i understand it right, that i can connect any RGB led strip to farbwerk ?


----------



## Avacado

Leonko said:


> Excuse me for stupid question (i want to be sure), but do i understand it right, that i can connect any RGB led strip to farbwerk ?


Yep, if the connector matches. Be careful though, there are 5v and 12v Farbs out there. be sure which ones you have.


----------



## DaLiu

http://imgur.com/a/EoXiyN5

kryographics NEXT RTX 3080 3090 FTW3


----------



## Avacado

DaLiu said:


> http://imgur.com/a/EoXiyN5
> 
> kryographics NEXT RTX 3080 3090 FTW3


Clever solution to cooling the VRAM.


----------



## DaLiu

Indeed, really like this block.


----------



## Biggu

Agreed thats a good looking cooler. As soon as I can get one for my 3090 Strix I will.


----------



## celehahn

hello,

on the aquacomputer shop there are 2 aquaero 6xt silver/red led but with a different modelnumber. what is the difference?

modelnumbers are:

53262
53146 

thank you


----------



## helis4life

InfoSeeker said:


> Adding the XT or PRO face plate converts the LT into an XT or PRO, and you would be able to use an aquaremote infrared remote control device with the converted device.


Do you happen to have a link to the xt/pro faceplate?


----------



## InfoSeeker

celehahn said:


> hello,
> 
> on the aquacomputer shop there are 2 aquaero 6xt silver/red led but with a different modelnumber. what is the difference?
> 
> modelnumbers are:
> 
> 53262
> 53146
> 
> thank you


I download both product page's full descriptions into seperate Word files and compared the two. The only difference between the two was the product number. You should probably send an email to [email protected] for a definitive answer to your question.


----------



## InfoSeeker

helis4life said:


> Do you happen to have a link to the xt/pro faceplate?


Shoggy had a followup comment on that subject, stating that upgrading an lt to a xt/pro may not always be possible.

There is no separate display/faceplate available on their web-shop. I suggest you email support for help in determining the ability of your lt to upgrade to an xt/pro. If it is possible, they will sell you the required bits directly.


----------



## Turgin

DaLiu said:


> http://imgur.com/a/EoXiyN5
> 
> kryographics NEXT RTX 3080 3090 FTW3


I was waiting on the Heatkiller to be available but now I am waiting on this to be available instead.


----------



## rioja

Is it a small display on gpu block or just a plate?


----------



## helis4life

InfoSeeker said:


> Shoggy had a followup comment on that subject, stating that upgrading an lt to a xt/pro may not always be possible.
> 
> There is no separate display/faceplate available on their web-shop. I suggest you email support for help in determining the ability of your lt to upgrade to an xt/pro. If it is possible, they will sell you the required bits directly.


No worries thanks


----------



## suty455

Have a question or Two first post be gentle!
Have just gotten into the world of water cooling and have bought a Aquaero 5LT knowing what I do now rather than 6 Weeks ago I would have bought the 6LT because of the extra PWM headers but whats done is done, I have added the heat sink to the unit as well for the fan control chips
System is as follows
3950 CPU
3090 GPU
1x 240mm Rad with 2 NF120 Redux
1x 280mm Rad With 2NF140
1x NF140 Front intake
3x NF140 Exhaust Fans
Alpahcool Eiseball and a VP755 Pump
Inline Temp Sensor in the Bottom Rad Intake
Loop is Res/Front Rad/CPU/GPU/Bottom Rad/Res
Am getting good temps no issues there but I want to know how to slow the fans to minimum I have set up the fan curves and am using the Bottom Rad water Temp and the exhaust fan air temp plus an ambient Air intake temp (the last one is just to monitor the delta)
My fans will not slow down below 650rpm for the 120mm they are PWM and are plugged into the 3 Pins header 1 Front fans are on header 3 and the Exhaust and front intake are all on PWM header (4)
so Questions, how do i get my 120mm fans down to the minimum rated speed of 450rpm? they simply stop at below 650 RPM
My Pump is PWM controlled and has a speed sensor wire as well can I control it via the RPM sensor on the unit if not what is that header for?
The PWM header on the unit can be used for Pump control if Required?
Would a flow sensor be able to control the pump speed via PWM?


----------



## JasonMorris

PWM fans need all 4 pins connecting and you have plugged them into 3 pin headers. If you use 3 pin fans you can voltage control them to reduce the speed. Yes you can use PWM header for pump but usually set pump speed and leave it. You could add an Octo or Quadro to get proper PWM fan headers.


----------



## iCrap

So my aquero has just randomly stopped recognizing any button presses from the Aquaremote thing. I dont see any IR settings in aquasuite, but on the device menus i have all the infrared functions checked. Any ideas? I changed the batteries already in the remote. Just wont do anything.


----------



## ManniX-ITA

iCrap said:


> So my aquero has just randomly stopped recognizing any button presses from the Aquaremote thing. I dont see any IR settings in aquasuite, but on the device menus i have all the infrared functions checked. Any ideas? I changed the batteries already in the remote. Just wont do anything.


Look with your phone camera at the RCU infrared emitter.
If they are not flashing it's the remote having an issue.


----------



## iCrap

ManniX-ITA said:


> Look with your phone camera at the RCU infrared emitter.
> If they are not flashing it's the remote having an issue.


Thats a good idea, just tried it. It is working. So its something on the Aquero


----------



## ChiTownButcher

Is there any word on if the Farbwerk 360 can control Lian Li Uni Fans? I have a Dynamic XL that I plan on filling and hate adding any more software than I have to.


----------



## Turgin

ChiTownButcher said:


> Is there any word on if the Farbwerk 360 can control Lian Li Uni Fans? I have a Dynamic XL that I plan on filling and hate adding any more software than I have to.


I can confirm that it can. You don’t even have to use the Lian Li hub.


----------



## suty455

Turgin said:


> I can confirm that it can. You don’t even have to use the Lian Li hub.


Do you think the Aquaero 5 would be able to do the same?


----------



## Section31

Turgin said:


> I can confirm that it can. You don’t even have to use the Lian Li hub.


Thanks. I was looking at testing them using the rgbpx adapter on the octo fan controller


----------



## Turgin

suty455 said:


> Do you think the Aquaero 5 would be able to do the same?


The fan yes but not the LEDs because Aquaero doesn't do addressable RGB.


----------



## ratzofftoya

Hey folks! Simple (hopefully) questions: 

if I connect a Quadro to an Aquaro 6 Pro via aquabus, does the Quadro ever need to be plugged in via USB? I've heard that perhaps it needs some firmware update that can only be delivered via USB interface?
same question regarding the fabwerk
is it correct that I can daisy chain aquabus connections from the Farbwerk? In other words, if I plug in the Farbwerk on the Aquaero 6 Pro's one and only Aquabus high connection, can I plug said Quadro or a D5 Next pump into the Farbwerk and have it all reporting to/controllable by the Aqauero?


----------



## Bartdude

Correct, you only need to use USB for updates, with the amount of updates we've had over the last year (+2 so far this year) I leave USB plugged in permanently using a Hubby7 



ratzofftoya said:


> Hey folks! Simple (hopefully) questions:
> 
> if I connect a Quadro to an Aquaro 6 Pro via aquabus, does the Quadro ever need to be plugged in via USB? I've heard that perhaps it needs some firmware update that can only be delivered via USB interface?
> same question regarding the fabwerk
> is it correct that I can daisy chain aquabus connections from the Farbwerk? In other words, if I plug in the Farbwerk on the Aquaero 6 Pro's one and only Aquabus high connection, can I plug said Quadro or a D5 Next pump into the Farbwerk and have it all reporting to/controllable by the Aqauero?


----------



## JustinThyme

You can connect just about any aquacomputer by aquabus and you are right that you do need to have them connected to USB to do updates.
Last update was a shyteshow. Borked my OCTO (they are sending a new one) and took forever to get get a quadro I had tucked away to update that firmware. 
Update procedure now, dont deviate
1) they need to be connected by USB
2) everything that is plugged into them needs to be disconnected particularly the QUADRO and the OCTO or they will bork on the firmware.
3) Easiest thing to do to get it all to go right is cut the aqauacomputer profile folder from C:\program data (hidden file so make sure you have view hidden files enabled) and paste it to your desktop or where ever you want.
4)uninstall aqauasuite
5)plug in one of your devices that still has an active date for activation of the software
6) use the aquasuite installer that will download the latest which right now is X35 and install it as a new installation.
7) plug your devices into USB one at a time and see if it needs a firmware update and update as needed, again nothing but power and the USB connection.
8) once all is finished close the program then you can delete the newly installed profile folder, put your old folder back and plug everything back in like you had it be it all USB or aquabus.

Yes there is a lot of hate and discontent going on in the aqaucomputer forums over this. People are not happy at having to clip all the ties on their cable management just to update the software and firmware and if you update the software at least one device is going to need its firmware updated, Has everytime for me and never had an issue until X23 and X224 that were removed quickly due to all the borking of parts. Now it will prompt you prior to the flash to disconnect all outputs.

great system but this chapped my ass quite a bit and they are eating some serious crow as well as spending a lot of money sending people replacement parts. For me it was the OCTO and forturnately I bought it directly from them so I didnt have to go though a retailer then the retailer go to them and a month later before anything happens. As soon as I submitted the RMA as instructed to do so on the forum and followed up the auto response with a copy of the invoice I got a tracking number the next day for the replacement. They said they dont even want the old one back as they know what happened just from me telling them I updated and it was working and now its not. Funny it didnt even prompt for a firmware update. Normally you try to pull up the device in aqaussuite and it will tell you the firmware must be updated to work with this version. Not this time. I went from an OCTO that worked fine to completely dead. Wouldnt even run stand alone which all the devices do. If you set them up and have all your configuration done and dont monitor with the aquasuite software you can unplug the USB/aquabus connection and the settings are saved on the device.


----------



## Shawnb99

They better fix the need to disconnect everything soon or I’m going to run into major troubles every update.

Just saw they introduced this in the latest firmware for some reason. Hopefully by the time I’m up and running this will be solved. 
Or looks like it’ll be time to stop updates on all Aquacomputer gear.

Sadly there are no comparable options


----------



## Bartdude

Agreed it's a pain!, I almost wished I'd ignored the update as I wasn't having any issues. However I wasn't aware of the firmware/unplug until after the update  Still no issues after updating so if they introduce this for every firmware update I'll just keep the version I'm running unless I have an issue!


----------



## ratzofftoya

Huh. That sounds awful. So if I'm booting up with a fresh Splitty, Aquaero, Farbwerk, and D5 Next, what do you recommend I do? What do I connect/not connect via USB?


----------



## Bartdude

Me personally, I keep everything connected via USB just because the amount of updates there have been. The issue in question was a firmware update for the Quadro/Octo so you should be fine


----------



## ratzofftoya

Bartdude said:


> Me personally, I keep everything connected via USB just because the amount of updates there have been. The issue in question was a firmware update for the Quadro/Octo so you should be fine


Gotcha. And do you need to use SATA power on the Hubby7, if all the devices I'm using (Aquaero, Farbwerk, and D5 pump) have their own power connections?


----------



## Shawnb99

ratzofftoya said:


> Huh. That sounds awful. So if I'm booting up with a fresh Splitty, Aquaero, Farbwerk, and D5 Next, what do you recommend I do? What do I connect/not connect via USB?


Connect it all via USB for first time set up and updating. All other times you can safely remove it from USB


----------



## Bartdude

You don't have to use SATA power on the Hubby7, it gives you 2 options:

Quote from Aquacomputer: Power can by supplied to the hub either via USB connection to the motherboard or via SATA power connector.


----------



## ratzofftoya

Bartdude said:


> You don't have to use SATA power on the Hubby7, it gives you 2 options:
> 
> Quote from Aquacomputer: Power can by supplied to the hub either via USB connection to the motherboard or via SATA power connector.


I saw that but I assume there's _some _advantage/scenario to using the SATA power, since USB will always be connected anyway....What is that?


----------



## Bartdude

Again quote from Aquacomputer: 
If power is supplied via USB, depending on motherboard configuration, power will also be supplied during standby of the PC, therefore enabling connected devices (keyboard, aquaero) to trigger system startup. When using USB power supply, a maximum current of 500 mA is available for the hub and all connected devices in total.
If power is supplied directly from the PSU via SATA power connector, no power is supplied during standby, which might for example be beneficial to disable computer mice with annoying light emission's during standby. When using SATA power supply, a total current of 1000 mA is available, split up to a total of 500 mA for ports 1, 2 and 3 combined and ports 4, 5, 6 and 7 combined.


----------



## ratzofftoya

Bartdude said:


> Again quote from Aquacomputer:
> If power is supplied via USB, depending on motherboard configuration, power will also be supplied during standby of the PC, therefore enabling connected devices (keyboard, aquaero) to trigger system startup. When using USB power supply, a maximum current of 500 mA is available for the hub and all connected devices in total.
> If power is supplied directly from the PSU via SATA power connector, no power is supplied during standby, which might for example be beneficial to disable computer mice with annoying light emission's during standby. When using SATA power supply, a total current of 1000 mA is available, split up to a total of 500 mA for ports 1, 2 and 3 combined and ports 4, 5, 6 and 7 combined.


Thanks! That's the use-case I was wondering about. Do I care about the available current if I'm powering the USB-connected devices through their own power sources?


----------



## InfoSeeker

ratzofftoya said:


> Thanks! That's the use-case I was wondering about. Do I care about the available current if I'm powering the USB-connected devices through their own power sources?


You need USB power with system off/standby status for certain aquacomputer devices. Two that come to mind are the MPS flow sensors which calibrate their zero value when the system is off (no coolant flow), and the high flow next is also able to calibrate the external temp sensor connected to it during system off status (system at ambient). Though I have seen a large temp error (adjacent electronics?) for the high flow next compared to ambient, which I will check when I get mine running.


----------



## Shawnb99

From Shoggy via Aquacomputer forums

“After the bad user repsonse we will withdraw the obligation to remove the fans in future updates, but we will recommend it at any problem due the update and show an according message before flashing the device.”

Not sure why that requirement was added in the first place. What a poorly designed feature.
Aquacomputer is dropping the ball lately, first it was a poorly designed Aquabus X4 device that once installed prevents you from using all four ports if mounted in a front bay and now this “feature”. Not sure what the point of it ever was but glad to see it gone.


----------



## InfoSeeker

Shawnb99 said:


> From Shoggy via Aquacomputer forums
> 
> “After the bad user repsonse we will withdraw the obligation to remove the fans in future updates, but we will recommend it at any problem due the update and show an according message before flashing the device.”
> 
> Not sure why that requirement was added in the first place. What a poorly designed feature.
> Aquacomputer is dropping the ball lately, first it was a poorly designed Aquabus X4 device that once installed prevents you from using all four ports if mounted in a front bay and now this “feature”. Not sure what the point of it ever was but glad to see it gone.


From the text it appears it is an issue that reared it's ugly head with X.32... I don't think the issue has been corrected, just that you will be warned about the possibility of a failure if not performed, which then places the onus on the user if the octo/quadro is bricked.

I asked for a reason, we will see if aquacomputer shares... usually if people know the issue, they are more accepting of a solution.


----------



## Shawnb99

InfoSeeker said:


> I asked for a reason, we will see if aquacomputer shares... usually if people know the issue, they are more accepting of a solution.


Yeah same. A reason for this would be be very enlightening.


----------



## Shawnb99

Of course it turns out the reason for the change was crappy RGB 

As per Shoggy “
We already worte it at the forum: We had some customers with problems at the firmware update of OCTO and QUADRO. If the power draw of RGB fans is high due the firwmare update there can be issues at the 5V power line. Some users also have bad Molex connectors at the PSU or damaged contacts due sleeving.
If only the device itself needs to be powered we expect no problems at the power supply of the unit. That's why we decided to remove the fans. The next update will be possible without again.”

Glad to see it resolved so quickly


----------



## InfoSeeker

Indeed, a little communication goes a long way.

@Shawnb99: a minor thing, the two post you accredit to @Shoggy are actually from @Stephan


----------



## Bartdude

I specifically asked Stephan if we could have a heads up next time as no one was aware you had to unplug fans/pumps until after you had done the install and were then confronted by the firmware update, leaving you no choice but to do it. I hadn't had a problem with X34 so I could have made the decision to ignore X35. Glad to see it was sorted, thanks @Stephan


----------



## ratzofftoya

OK, here's what I'm thinking for my new setup. Any thoughts?


----------



## JustinThyme

InfoSeeker said:


> From the text it appears it is an issue that reared it's ugly head with X.32... I don't think the issue has been corrected, just that you will be warned about the possibility of a failure if not performed, which then places the onus on the user if the octo/quadro is bricked.
> 
> I asked for a reason, we will see if aquacomputer shares... usually if people know the issue, they are more accepting of a solution.


Sebastian screwed the pooch on the software/firmware update. I lost an OCTO over it. Didn't even prompt anything. I just saw the prompt to update the software and did it. I didn't attempt to update the firmware on anything. My OCTO just crapped completely. Before if you had to update firmware on anything it would still run in its last configuration and in aquasuite when you try to open it you'd get the prompt that the firmware needed to be updated to work with this version of the software. I got no such prompt, it just did it and borked the crap out of it. Fortunately it wasn't that old and one of the few pieces I bought directly from them. Went to X35 quickly. I pulled out my Quadro that had been taken out of service and plugged it in after the X35 update with nothing connected and it did prompt to unplug all out puts prior to proceeding. Then it didn't work anyhow, wouldn't take the update. I had to save my profile folder. Uninstall then reinstall as a fresh installation to get it to work. Then I stopped the service, deleted the new profile folder and put my saved one back. Too much work spent on the profiles and settings, especially the OSD that's pretty much all HTML code with a little help for dummies but no directions. To their credit I posted in the forum, they told me to create a support ticket which I did Last Thursday and they shipped a new one on Friday, just the board, no rubber or top plate, and it as here on Monday. I asked if they wanted the old one back and they said no, its screwed, they knew why and left it at that.

Surely a lot of folks complaining with a valid gripe. Get all that cable management done then you have to cut it all loose with every firmware update to unplug all the outputs? Mine had been updated many times before with no need to disconnect outputs. Seems the update could have been written better to shut outputs off before the flash and had probably been that way until someone screwed the pooch. Don't remember the build number but pretty sure its the first one on their do not use list now. Happened on a push Jan14. Thankfully the firmware updates were only on the Quadro's and Octo's. Id really have been pi$$ed if my 6 PRO and D5 Next, Next flow meter got borked too, that would have left me with either the POS corsair commander that collects dust in a box or worse, the MOBO connections that no matter what you select for reference it uses the CPUU package temp s0 up and down non stop. Freakin $800 MOBO and ASUS still cant get that right and I refuse to install AI Suite, lost a MOBO over that crappy software, borked both bios roms. Only saving grace was they were still socketed on that mobo and $50 later had two new rom chips to plug in. Now they are soldered in so not even going there. Not that much of a PITA to change things in the BIOS. Something not right about making writes to the BIOS while the machine is running snd as for their 5 way optimization.....pfffft.

I guess everyone is entitled to screwing the Labrador now and then so long as they make it right. Still the best fan, pump, temp and flow control on the market as far as Im concerned. I have a tight window on my liquid temp 26-30C and its a nice slow even ramp up and down. MOBOs are the worst with hysteresis as is the corsair commander pro. Up and down and up and down and up and down, annoying!! Where it really counts is on the noctua 2000 rpm industrial fans. 9 140s in my MORA and 7 more in the case. Wind those puppy's up and they get quite loud but will blow your hair back si those up and down is annoying as hell. For some reason the noctuas wont run on a standard cheap powered PWM splitter like the silverstone. They will run in power or speed only mode on a splitty but not PWM mode unless connected to an octo or quadro. Still works and controls the speed but not sure how well the fans like it.


----------



## JustinThyme

ratzofftoya said:


> OK, here's what I'm thinking for my new setup. Any thoughts?
> View attachment 2474899


Where is the USB for your MOBO connection? Thats whats suposed to be plugged into the usb connection of the aquaero. Unless you left it off of the hubby. The hubby 7 also has a sata power port. Dont know if its required but by habit if there's a power connector I use it. Its never the number of devices that gets you on USB, its the power drop below 5V. If the hub is powered you don't have that worry.


----------



## Leonko

ratzofftoya said:


> OK, here's what I'm thinking for my new setup. Any thoughts?
> View attachment 2474899


first of all, why the hell do you need AQ6 ? tell me ... and dont say because of aquabus please ...


----------



## ratzofftoya

JustinThyme said:


> Where is the USB for your MOBO connection? Thats whats suposed to be plugged into the usb connection of the aquaero. Unless you left it off of the hubby. The hubby 7 also has a sata power port. Dont know if its required but by habit if there's a power connector I use it. Its never the number of devices that gets you on USB, its the power drop below 5V. If the hub is powered you don't have that worry.


Yes, my plan is for the hubby to be connected to the mobo. I did see that it has SATA power and have been trying to figure out what that's for. None of the devices connected to the Hubby will be getting power from the Hubby via USB--they're all plugged in to their own power sources. But maybe I'll plug it in anyway.



Leonko said:


> first of all, why the hell do you need AQ6 ? tell me ... and dont say because of aquabus please ...


3 reasons:
1.)I had one from my previous build
2.)I've never had much success with setting up fan curves from motherboard software
3.)My case has a special place for it in which it fits very snugly 
Oh and 
4.)Aquabus


----------



## Leonko

ratzofftoya said:


> 1.)I had one from my previous build


thats the good reason  i was pointing to OCTO, when buying fan controler. but since you have AQ6 already, any further discussion is pointless 

i would never choose AQ6 before OCTO when buying new controller. Its an old device and price is also higher. And you mentioned Aquabus as reason. Aquabus connectors on AQ are also old "types" as opposed to those used in new AQ devices


----------



## ratzofftoya

Leonko said:


> And you mentioned Aquabus as reason. Aquabus connectors on AQ are also old "types" as opposed to those used in new AQ devices


Oh? What's the new type?


----------



## Leonko

ratzofftoya said:


> Oh? What's the new type?


its not that classic "PWM" connector anymore


----------



## InfoSeeker

ratzofftoya said:


> Oh? What's the new type?


The 'new' connector type used by aquacomputer is the Molex PicoBlade system.

Edit: do NOT use the "Off-the-Shelf Cable Assemblies", they are pinned-out differently from aquacomputer's cables.


----------



## InfoSeeker

ratzofftoya said:


> Yes, my plan is for the hubby to be connected to the mobo. I did see that it has SATA power and have been trying to figure out what that's for. None of the devices connected to the Hubby will be getting power from the Hubby via USB--they're all plugged in to their own power sources. But maybe I'll plug it in anyway.
> 
> 
> 3 reasons:
> 1.)I had one from my previous build
> 2.)I've never had much success with setting up fan curves from motherboard software
> 3.)My case has a special place for it in which it fits very snugly
> Oh and
> 4.)Aquabus


If you feed the SATA power connection, your connected USB devices can draw more power (double if memory serves), BUT you loose the 5V from the MoBo.
Why is this important?
If you have aquacomputer devices that calibrate during system off, these will not have 5V, and will not calibrate. e.g. MPS flow sensors, High Flow Next external connected temp sensor. Not having one, I do not know if the D5 Next has any functions it tries to perform during system off status.


----------



## ratzofftoya

InfoSeeker said:


> If you feed the SATA power connection, your connected USB devices can draw more power (double if memory serves), BUT you loose the 5V from the MoBo.
> Why is this important?
> If you have aquacomputer devices that calibrate during system off, these will not have 5V, and will not calibrate. e.g. MPS flow sensors, High Flow Next external connected temp sensor. Not having one, I do not know if the D5 Next has any functions it tries to perform during system off status.


Huh. So even if it has BOTH a USB and SATA connection, it will lose the 5V? Weird.


----------



## Turgin

InfoSeeker said:


> If you have aquacomputer devices that calibrate during system off, these will not have 5V, and will not calibrate. e.g. MPS flow sensors, High Flow Next external connected temp sensor. Not having one, I do not know if the D5 Next has any functions it tries to perform during system off status.


How do you find such information? I have several AC devices and I've not see that documented anywhere but I also can't say I've read every PDF top to bottom. I have an Aquaero 6 LT, D5 NEXT, farbwerk 360, and a high flow USB sensor that I will be replacing with a high flow NEXT when I tear down my loop to block my 3080. All of that is connected to a Hubby7 using 5v USB power from the motherboard. I was concerned about the power draw for so many devices but it seems to work fine and reduces the already considerable cable clutter.



ratzofftoya said:


> Huh. So even if it has BOTH a USB and SATA connection, it will lose the 5V? Weird.


Yes because you have to set a jumper on the Hubby.


----------



## JustinThyme

Leonko said:


> first of all, why the hell do you need AQ6 ? tell me ... and dont say because of aquabus please ...


Why not? 
Why does anyone need any of this when air cooling works and the MOBO all have fan headers. The first part of my system was an AQ6. If you do plan on using aqua bus it’s a necessity. If you want relay output it’s a necessity. If you want control over your loop without the MOBO plugged in to fill your loop it’s a necessity as it runs off of the 5V standby. Aquabus is a viable reason unless you want to add a bunch of USB hubs as motherboards are now being made with fewer internal USB connections. This also isolates your devices off of USB. Aquabus also allows you to pool resources. You can’t use the same temp sensor plugged into one as a reference for another if it’s not connected by aquabus, if that’s a lie then aquaero told it. Using aquabus allows you to pool resources.
Most importantly because you can. If one wishes to run only an OCTO that’s possible if it meets your needs. For some, myself included it does not.

As for the question of the power on the hubby it keeps the 5V USB header from getting dragged down. This makes the USB from the MOBO data only and all devices 5V power is provided by the sata power connection. How many devices you have connected, the number of USB controllers on your MOBO all come into play. What’s plugged into rear I/O may come from the same 5V power source. As a habit for me if there is a power connection, I use it.


----------



## Turgin

JustinThyme said:


> Aquabus also allows you to pool resources. You can’t use the same temp sensor plugged into one as a reference for another if it’s not connected by aquabus, if that’s a lie then aquaero told it. Using aquabus allows you to pool resources.


That's a very good point. The only water temp sensor I have is the one in my D5 NEXT and I'm able to combine that with an intake ambient sensor off my AQ 6 to generate the water to ambient delta value to drive my fan curves along with the RGB connected to a farbwerk 360 for visual feedback.



JustinThyme said:


> Most importantly because you can. If one wishes to run only an OCTO that’s possible if it meets your needs. For some, myself included it does not.


This is the most important reason. I spend more on my loop than some people do on complete systems because I enjoy WC as its own hobby and because I can. I don't *need* any of this but I like doing it.


----------



## Turgin

Bartdude said:


> Me personally, I keep everything connected via USB just because the amount of updates there have been. The issue in question was a firmware update for the Quadro/Octo so you should be fine


I do as well. Everything is always connected via both USB and Aquabus if it can.


----------



## Shawnb99

Leonko said:


> first of all, why the hell do you need AQ6 ? tell me ... and dont say because of aquabus please ...


I have 3x AQ6’s in my latest build.


----------



## Shawnb99

For those with the High Flow Next


__
https://www.reddit.com/r/watercooling/comments/l1561m


----------



## tiefox

Does anyone knows the specs on the four screws that go around the GPU for the Aquacomputer Block for the 3090 strix ? I received mine late last year and only managed to go about assembly it yesterday, and unfortunately it seems that the screws were missing in my packaging.

( I wrote already to support )


----------



## Turgin

Shawnb99 said:


> For those with the High Flow Next


Good info since mine's still in the box from when I received it a few days ago. I promised myself that I would not drain and disassemble my loop until I can get a block for my 3080 FTW3.


----------



## JustinThyme

Shawnb99 said:


> I have 3x AQ6’s in my latest build.


Holy Cow! You are an AQ junkie. Maybe should start an AQ anonymous group! LOL.

I just have the one AQ 6, D5 Next, Next flow meter is inbound, two digital temp sensors that connect aquabus only, Octo, quadro, hubby and splitty. Some fans can run off of one output from the AQ to a powered splitter but the only way for the Noctua industrial fans to run in PWM mode is from an output one fan only be it the AQ or octo or quadro. Without they will only run on power or speed modes. I haven’t check to see exactly what that output is. If it’s using voltage control instead of PWM duty cycle I don’t know how much that will affect the longevity of a fan that’s meant to have 12V and a pulsed switching signal. Too many fans! The QL fans run fine off of a silver stone powered splitter. I’m going to end up with at least another quadro. My MORA has 9 140 fans and two pumps. May just get another OCTO for that because I may in the near future add pull fans to it but those will be 4X 200mm fans so 15 PWM headers needed on the MORA at a minimum. An Octo and quadro will handle it as is. I don’t run pumps on a splitter as I stagger the speeds for acoustical noise cancellation and they don’t seem to like being on a splitter either as it’s all or none. I set them to anything less than 100% on a splitter and they go to zero. I don’t vary pump speeds based on temps. I set them up for the flow rate I want and noise cancellation and that’s where they stay. Ventilation fans I generally set static speeds as well. Rad fans are all on a curve using liquid temps as a reference.


----------



## Leonko

JustinThyme said:


> If you do plan on using aqua bus it’s a necessity.





JustinThyme said:


> If you want control over your loop without the MOBO plugged in to fill your loop it’s a necessity


these are the "because i can" reasons and not valuable reasons. you dont need aquabus, because you can connect all devices via hubby via USB. And MOBO plugged off is even less valueable argument then aquabus ... These are not things you can do on AQ6 that you cant do (different) on OCTO. You just mentioned some things you can do on AQ different. I dont know what did you mean with that relay, but when i admit it as reason to buy AQ6, thats terrible price/performance over OCTO. And thats what i ment by my first post.



JustinThyme said:


> Aquabus also allows you to pool resources. You can’t use the same temp sensor plugged into one as a reference for another if it’s not connected by aquabus, if that’s a lie then aquaero told it.


can you please explain what do you mean ? i dont understand ...


----------



## ratzofftoya

Turgin said:


> How do you find such information? I have several AC devices and I've not see that documented anywhere but I also can't say I've read every PDF top to bottom. I have an Aquaero 6 LT, D5 NEXT, farbwerk 360, and a high flow USB sensor that I will be replacing with a high flow NEXT when I tear down my loop to block my 3080. All of that is connected to a Hubby7 using 5v USB power from the motherboard. I was concerned about the power draw for so many devices but it seems to work fine and reduces the already considerable cable clutter.
> 
> 
> 
> Yes because you have to set a jumper on the Hubby.


So you have no SATA power going to the Hubby, right?


----------



## ratzofftoya

JustinThyme said:


> As for the question of the power on the hubby it keeps the 5V USB header from getting dragged down. This makes the USB from the MOBO data only and all devices 5V power is provided by the sata power connection. How many devices you have connected, the number of USB controllers on your MOBO all come into play. What’s plugged into rear I/O may come from the same 5V power source. As a habit for me if there is a power connection, I use it.


So do you have the jumper set to SATA then?


----------



## Turgin

ratzofftoya said:


> So you have no SATA power going to the Hubby, right?


Correct. I used SATA power previously but when I moved to my new case I decided to try it without to cut down on the number of power connectors.


----------



## Turgin

Leonko said:


> can you please explain what do you mean ? i dont understand ...


In my case, the only temp sensor I have is in my D5 NEXT which is connected via Aquabus to my Aquaero. Because of this I am able to use the temp sensor on the pump via Aquabus and combine it with an ambient sensor connected to the Aquaero for a virtual delta T sensor for use as a source for the fan controllers and even map it to a soft sensor on my farbwerk 360 to control RGB based on it. Same concept for my USB flow sensor connected via AB. If you can do all of that without AB I'm all ears.


----------



## InfoSeeker

Turgin said:


> In my case, the only temp sensor I have is in my D5 NEXT which is connected via Aquabus to my Aquaero. Because of this I am able to use the temp sensor on the pump via Aquabus and combine it with an ambient sensor connected to the Aquaero for a virtual delta T sensor for use as a source for the fan controllers and even map it to a soft sensor on my farbwerk 360 to control RGB based on it. Same concept for my USB flow sensor connected via AB. If you can do all of that without AB I'm all ears.


This is also doable without aquabus via the USB connections, but the aquasuite service/helper must be running.
aquabus is very useful for Linux systems where you do not have the aquasuite service/helper available.

There are instances where the aquabus takes away... for instance if you have an OCTO/QUADRO connected to an aquaero by aquabus, you will loose the fan curve controllers on the OCTO/QUADRO, ending up with 4 instead of 12/8. I am not sure how that works with the D5 NEXT's fan controller.


----------



## Turgin

InfoSeeker said:


> This is also doable without aquabus via the USB connections, but the aquasuite service/helper must be running.
> aquabus is very useful for Linux systems where you do not have the aquasuite service/helper available.


Ok, then I stand corrected. 



InfoSeeker said:


> There are instances where the aquabus takes away... for instance if you have an OCTO/QUADRO connected to an aquaero by aquabus, you will loose the fan curve controllers on the OCTO/QUADRO, ending up with 4 instead of 12/8. I am not sure how that works with the D5 NEXT's fan controller.


I do know that if you connect the D5 NEXT via AB you lose the RGBpx channel on the D5 but I don't care about that as I have the farbwerk 360. I also don't use the fan output on the D5 as I have the Aquaero.


----------



## JustinThyme

Leonko said:


> these are the "because i can" reasons and not valuable reasons. you dont need aquabus, because you can connect all devices via hubby via USB. And MOBO plugged off is even less valueable argument then aquabus ... These are not things you can do on AQ6 that you cant do (different) on OCTO. You just mentioned some things you can do on AQ different. I dont know what did you mean with that relay, but when i admit it as reason to buy AQ6, thats terrible price/performance over OCTO. And thats what i ment by my first post.
> 
> can you please explain what do you mean ? i dont understand ...


If you have an OCTO you cannot use the temp sensor from another device when using USB. They are all separate devices using separate sensors and separate controllers. Another bit of misinformation is controllers. You can add as many as you want. Everything depends on intended use. My Octo goes to fans with all the same curves and my quadro goes for pumps. That’s the beauty of the system. If you feel all you need is an OCTO and that works for you I personally find it insulting to insist your way is right and everyone else is wrong. If an OCTO was all that was needed then they wouldn’t market the rest. I use Corsair for RGB so that doesn’t matter for me but you don’t see me telling me someone not to use aquaero RGB controllers. Set it up the way you like. I have mine set up the way I like and it works perfectly.

it’s a complex system, some don’t have a clue. Good resource for suggestions can be found on the aquaero forum where the manufacturer actually monitors it. You have problems or questions they are on it pretty quick.


----------



## InfoSeeker

JustinThyme said:


> If you have an OCTO you cannot use the temp sensor from another device when using USB. They are all separate devices using separate sensors and separate controllers.


If you are running aquasuite you CAN import sensor data from other devices by establishing a Soft.Sensor. In the clip below I am pulling flow rate data and a virtual delta-t from the aquaero, and a Virtual Software Sensor from the Playground, into the quadro. There are NO aquabus connections in that system.











> Another bit of misinformation is controllers. You can add as many as you want.


There are limits to controllers for the aquaero, per sebastian.
The quadro and octo have one controller for each fan port, which go away if you slave them to the aquaero by using aquabus.




> Everything depends on intended use. My Octo goes to fans with all the same curves and my quadro goes for pumps. That’s the beauty of the system. If you feel all you need is an OCTO and that works for you I personally find it insulting to insist your way is right and everyone else is wrong. If an OCTO was all that was needed then they wouldn’t market the rest. I use Corsair for RGB so that doesn’t matter for me but you don’t see me telling me someone not to use aquaero RGB controllers. Set it up the way you like. I have mine set up the way I like and it works perfectly.
> 
> it’s a complex system, some don’t have a clue. Good resource for suggestions can be found on the aquaero forum where the manufacturer actually monitors it. You have problems or questions they are on it pretty quick.


----------



## JustinThyme

InfoSeeker said:


> If you are running aquasuite you CAN import sensor data from other devices by establishing a Soft.Sensor. In the clip below I am pulling flow rate data and a virtual delta-t from the aquaero, and a Virtual Software Sensor from the Playground, into the quadro. There are NO aquabus connections in that system.
> View attachment 2475072
> 
> 
> 
> There are limits to controllers for the aquaero, per sebastian.
> The quadro and octo have one controller for each fan port, which go away if you slave them to the aquaero by using aquabus.


Thought you weren't running an aquaero?
Yes there are limits to the QUADRO and OCTO but you can have as many as you want on the aquaero. Lets see a temp sensor from the AERO as a reference in a Quadro on a controller. Then Ill be convinced. I tried it, wouldnt work and Sebastian told me it wouldnt so I left it as is. Yeah you can make all the vitrual sensors you want for a dispaly when you pull up that device but I could not get them to work as a control reference but I can control an OCTO and QUADRO from the aquaero through aquabus. using digital aquabus temps sensors.

If there are limits on the aqaero then I just haven't hit it at 9 controllers.


----------



## JustinThyme

JustinThyme said:


> Thought you weren't running an aquaero?
> Yes there are limits to the QUADRO and OCTO but you can have as many as you want on the aquaero. Lets see a temp sensor from the AERO as a reference in a Quadro on a controller. Then Ill be convinced. I tried it, wouldnt work and Sebastian told me it wouldnt so I left it as is.





InfoSeeker said:


> If you feed the SATA power connection, your connected USB devices can draw more power (double if memory serves), BUT you loose the 5V from the MoBo.
> Why is this important?
> If you have aquacomputer devices that calibrate during system off, these will not have 5V, and will not calibrate. e.g. MPS flow sensors, High Flow Next external connected temp sensor. Not having one, I do not know if the D5 Next has any functions it tries to perform during system off status.


 The 5V standby stays via aqua bus from the aquaro. The sata power is just used for the outputs.


----------



## Leonko

@JustinThyme so i think its right to say, that its time for you to try and learn what new devices can do (explained by me and @InfoSeeker ), and stop looking only on price tag on old devices, when comparing  

AQ5/6 is really long time with us, and served really well. I cant wait to see what they will do with AQ7 after i saw what they have done with OCTO, but i can say now that its gonna be mindblowing device and i will gladly pay150€ for it ...


----------



## celehahn

hello,

i have a question regarding the high flow next sensor. When connected to the motherboard usb, does the display light up? looks like mine isnt working when connected.


----------



## ratzofftoya

So now that we've discussed the question of why anyone would ever use an Aquaero, I must ask--why would you need 2 or even 3 Aquaeros?


----------



## Shawnb99

ratzofftoya said:


> So now that we've discussed the question of why anyone would ever use an Aquaero, I must ask--why would you need 2 or even 3 Aquaeros?


I was going to go with 6+ D5 Nexts so that’s 2 per Aquero. And the real reason was I expecting to have 3 bays open, adding just one Aquero and blocking off the other two isn’t as nice looking. 
Hence the upgrade to 3 of them, though those plans are now out the window I’ll likely stick with just one.


----------



## Bartdude

I have AE6 + MPS400 + Quadro + Hubby7 and several Splitty9's, the Hubby7 is currently connected by SATA power but if I read this correctly I would be better off connected by MOBO so that the MPS could calibrate during standby? Everything is currently connected by USB & Aquabus though I have been thinking about unplugging the Quadro from Aquabus, just so I can create more fan curves since I exchanged an EK PE for an XE. (I bought my AE6 before Quadro/Octo existed)


----------



## InfoSeeker

JustinThyme said:


> Thought you weren't running an aquaero?


I guess I did not implicitly state I had one installed, but I do. I have an aquaero 6 and a quadro. The aquaero 6 sits in the external radiator, and the aquaero is in the case (case fans & RGBpx).

The external radiator was build prior to the octo. I am building a new external radiator (Mo-Ra3 420) and it has an octo, there will be NO aquaero in the system when it gets swapped in.



> Yes there are limits to the QUADRO and OCTO but you can have as many as you want on the aquaero.
> If there are limits on the aqaero then I just haven't hit it at 9 controllers.


False and exactly, your mix of 9 controllers is below the limits.
Quoting from sebastian, for the aquaero:


> jes, the numer of each controller type is limited.
> 4 - curve controller
> 8 - setpoint
> 16 - 2-point
> 32 - preset
> 1 - rgb





> Lets see a temp sensor from the AERO as a reference in a Quadro on a controller. Then Ill be convinced. I tried it, wouldnt work and Sebastian told me it wouldnt so I left it as is.


Please follow the flow in the following 3 screenshots. They document bringing a calitemp (only available in an aquaero) into a quadro without aquabus.

calitemp in aquaero        import calitemp to quadro  calitemp controller source

























> Yeah you can make all the vitrual sensors you want for a dispaly when you pull up that device but I could not get them to work as a control reference but I can control an OCTO and QUADRO from the aquaero through aquabus. using digital aquabus temps sensors.


I believe the issue is that you have NOT been importing the external sensors into the octo/quadro sensor tab firstly (2nd screenshots above). Once you import external temperature sensors into a Soft. Sensor on the octo/quadro, you will have them listed as a source in the controller source list.

On aquabus the aquaero can control the fans on an octo/quadro, but you loose the 8/4 controllers on the octo/quadro.


----------



## JustinThyme

Leonko said:


> @JustinThyme so i think its right to say, that its time for you to try and learn what new devices can do (explained by me and @InfoSeeker ), and stop looking only on price tag on old devices, when comparing
> 
> AQ5/6 is really long time with us, and served really well. I cant wait to see what they will do with AQ7 after i saw what they have done with OCTO, but i can say now that its gonna be mindblowing device and i will gladly pay150€ for it ...


Im where I want to be. I don’t think it’s right to insult people insinuating they don’t know anything about the devices based on the opinions of two people. I don’t insult your choices on how to run your rig so please stop insulting mine. I’m running prettying much one of everything they have. I ram the OCTO and QUADRO on USB for awhile but like everything on a single page. It’s not like I’m running every fan on different curves. I only break down sections by actual fan types because you can’t run 1200 rpm fans and 2000 rpm fans on the same controller. I don’t and never have looked at price tags. I look at what I want and how I want it to operate. Another consideration is my $800 MOBO has ONE USB 2.0 header. So I lost the extra powered USB hubs which freed up space and power connections. I get everything I need to see on my own customized desktop display. My pumps run how I want and my fans run how I want. What else is there to learn? I don’t see myself changing to an AQ7 as what I have and how it’s configured runs flawlessly exactly how I want it to taking up minimal space. Isn’t that the goal or did I miss something along the way? My biggest impression is it integrates with AIDA64 sensors even though software updates on Aquasuite pull in more and more hardware sensor, in the beginning there were none


----------



## JustinThyme

InfoSeeker said:


> I guess I did not implicitly state I had one installed, but I do. I have an aquaero 6 and a quadro. The aquaero 6 sits in the external radiator, and the aquaero is in the case (case fans & RGBpx).
> 
> The external radiator was build prior to the octo. I am building a new external radiator (Mo-Ra3 420) and it has an octo, there will be NO aquaero in the system when it gets swapped in.
> 
> 
> False and exactly, your mix of 9 controllers is below the limits.
> Quoting from sebastian, for the aquaero:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Please follow the flow in the following 3 screenshots. They document bringing a calitemp (only available in an aquaero) into a quadro without aquabus.
> 
> calitemp in aquaero        import calitemp to quadro  calitemp controller source
> View attachment 2475116
> View attachment 2475117
> View attachment 2475122
> 
> 
> 
> I believe the issue is that you have NOT been importing the external sensors into the octo/quadro sensor tab firstly (2nd screenshots above). Once you import external temperature sensors into a Soft. Sensor on the octo/quadro, you will have them listed as a source in the controller source list.
> 
> On aquabus the aquaero can control the fans on an octo/quadro, but you loose the 8/4 controllers on the octo/quadro.


doesnt this kill the arguement that aquabus is useless giving instructions on how to pull an aquabus only device into another device that’s not on aquabus?


----------



## Leonko

JustinThyme said:


> Im where I want to be. ...


this had nothing to do with what you want or dont want to have. You came here with few arguments saying that AQ6 is something more then OCTO in terms of features, and we proved you wrong, because lack of you knowledge of device. This is all what im saying. use what you want to use, dont tell people advantages where they dont exists.


----------



## Barefooter

Did I miss something? Are there rumors of an Aquaero 7?


----------



## Leonko

No rumors, but i kinda expect newer version to be released sometimes  why would not be ?


----------



## InfoSeeker

Leonko said:


> No rumors, but i kinda expect newer version to be released sometimes  why would not be ?


I'm in the opposite camp... I don't believe there will ever be a 'new' aquaero, model '7' or 'X', or whatever... certainly not with a display since those are in the "What is a 5.25" bay?" category.


----------



## Section31

celehahn said:


> hello,
> 
> i have a question regarding the high flow next sensor. When connected to the motherboard usb, does the display light up? looks like mine isnt working when connected.


It always on as long as your PSU is powered and motherboard 24pin/8pin connected


----------



## Section31

Leonko said:


> No rumors, but i kinda expect newer version to be released sometimes  why would not be ?


Thing with Aquacomputer we never know what they are working on lol. Aquacomputer Radiator, External Rad and other older products are also due up for replacement. Some of us got caught by the next flow meter annoucement and literally had bought there old flow meter. However that wasn't expensive item so could throw it away and get the Next one.


----------



## InfoSeeker

JustinThyme said:


> doesnt this kill the arguement that aquabus is useless giving instructions on how to pull an aquabus only device into another device that’s not on aquabus?


lol, you said, & I quote:


> Lets see a temp sensor from the AERO as a reference in a Quadro on a controller. Then Ill be convinced. I tried it, wouldnt work and Sebastian told me it wouldnt so I left it as is.


I showed you... and it sounds like you are convinced that it is possible, because you argue about something else now.
I am not trying to advice you to not use aquabus... I don't care.
It's your machine, run it as you please.

aquabus' strength lies in it's ability to communicate with other ac devices when the aquasuite service/helper are not running.


----------



## JustinThyme

Leonko said:


> this had nothing to do with what you want or dont want to have. You came here with few arguments saying that AQ6 is something more then OCTO in terms of features, and we proved you wrong, because lack of you knowledge of device. This is all what im saying. use what you want to use, dont tell people advantages where they dont exists.


They only thing you proved was your inability to respect how others want to run their systems and trashing someone for wanting to use an aquaero. No further points to be made. It’s a versatile system even for people who only want to run a quadro with a splitty.

The only point I will concede is the ability to use information from other devices not connected to aquabus. That is in the X change log and hasn’t always been there. Been using the AQ6 for a few years. Aquasuite is ever evolving and not always a good thing, especially recently.

I will be adding an Octo and Quado external to the case and running them on USB. Not because of any discussion here but because the only way to get aquabus cables long enough are to make them myself. They will be used for fans and pumps on this beast. I’ll be coming off of a USB port on the I/O with a male USB header on the other end of it. Those are readily available. The flex tubing will be probably close to 10 feet.


----------



## Section31

JustinThyme said:


> They only thing you proved was your inability to respect how others want to run their systems and trashing someone for wanting to use an aquaero. No further points to be made. It’s a versatile system even for people who only want to run a quadro with a splitty.
> 
> The only point I will concede is the ability to use information from other devices not connected to aquabus. That is in the X change log and hasn’t always been there. Been using the AQ6 for a few years. Aquasuite is ever evolving and not always a good thing, especially recently.
> 
> I will be adding an Octo and Quado external to the case and running them on USB. Not because of any discussion here but because the only way to get aquabus cables long enough are to make them myself. They will be used for fans and pumps on this beast. I’ll be coming off of a USB port on the I/O with a male USB header on the other end of it. Those are readily available. The flex tubing will be probably close to 10 feet.
> View attachment 2475211


So basically like what did with mine lol. I also found cheap USB hub were useful too. Octo hiding above the heatkiller tube


----------



## Leonko

JustinThyme said:


> They only thing you proved was your inability to respect how others want to run their systems


but it does not make them wrong


----------



## Avacado

Section31 said:


> So basically like what did with mine lol. I also found cheap USB hub were useful too. Octo hiding above the heatkiller tube
> View attachment 2475240
> View attachment 2475241


Jelly of the Uni fans, people have jacked the price up double here. Freaking 160$ for a 3 pack, yea, right, in your dreams.


----------



## Section31

Avacado said:


> Jelly of the Uni fans, people have jacked the price up double here. Freaking 160$ for a 3 pack, yea, right, in your dreams.


The 140mm versions aren’t selling here where i am


----------



## JustinThyme

Section31 said:


> So basically like what did with mine lol. I also found cheap USB hub were useful too. Octo hiding above the heatkiller tube
> View attachment 2475240
> View attachment 2475241



I have a USB3.1 to internal converter and long a$$ cable, Can hit both as they dont use all the pins, the second black is not used.
But yeah same principle, just the 420, 150mm HK res and dual D5 pump top. Started to get another D5Next but wanted to make damn sure I have all the flow I want. This will put 5 D5 pumps in the loop. Ill leave the D5Next at 100% and dial the rest back for noise cancellation and probably way back to keep my flow rate around 3GPM or 600L/Hr.


----------



## Section31

JustinThyme said:


> I have a USB3.1 to internal converter and long a$$ cable, Can hit both as they done use all the pins the the second black is not used.
> But yeah same principle, just the 420, 150mm HK res and dual D5 pump top. Started to get another D5Next but wanted to make damn sure I have all the flow I want. This will put 5 D5 pumps in the loop. Ill leave the D5Next at 100% and dial the rest back for noise cancellation and probably way back to keep my flow rate around 3GPM or 600L/Hr.


I looked at adding that dual mount but not sure i need it. I do have extra pumps, etc.


----------



## Shawnb99

Biggest improvement in a new Aquero for me would be more channels, fans and Aquabus.
Without my distro plates I’m looking at 13 channels for the fans, would be nice to have that all under one Aquero.


----------



## JustinThyme

Section31 said:


> I looked at adding that dual mount but not sure i need it. I do have extra pumps, etc.


Im not sure I need it either but Id rather have it and run at lower speeds if its too much.


----------



## JustinThyme

Shawnb99 said:


> Biggest improvement in a new Aquero for me would be more channels, fans and Aquabus.
> Without my distro plates I’m looking at 13 channels for the fans, would be nice to have that all under one Aquero.


All depends on how you break it down. I use two channels for fans. One on rads controlled by liquid temps and the other on the ventilation fans controlled by interior case temp. Pumps are two point or set point controllers. Yeah would be nice to have it all on one but ATM its 4 channels BUT you can add quadros and octos and splittys and even cheap splitters depending on the fans. I have 8 fans on one channel on a silverstone PWM sata powered splitter.


----------



## Shawnb99

JustinThyme said:


> All depends on how you break it down. I use two channels for fans. One on rads controlled by liquid temps and the other on the ventilation fans controlled by interior case temp. Pumps are two point or set point controllers. Yeah would be nice to have it all on one but ATM its 4 channels BUT you can add quadros and octos and splittys and even cheap splitters depending on the fans. I have 8 fans on one channel on a silverstone PWM sata powered splitter.


My plan is to break it down to a channel per radiator, one for each set of front bay fans for each side of the case, one each for the three different size exhaust fans, and one more for a bottom intake. 62 fans spread over 13 channels should be a decent break up. I could easily combine more but it would be nice to have it all under the same Aquero. 

I just may add a second Aquero if I can figure out where to place two more D5’s. Need to find a dual top for them without having to buy direct from AC


----------



## JustinThyme

Shawnb99 said:


> My plan is to break it down to a channel per radiator, one for each set of front bay fans for each side of the case, one each for the three different size exhaust fans, and one more for a bottom intake. 62 fans spread over 13 channels should be a decent break up. I could easily combine more but it would be nice to have it all under the same Aquero.
> 
> I just may add a second Aquero if I can figure out where to place two more D5’s. Need to find a dual top for them without having to buy direct from AC


Bitspower dual top is about the most compact I’ve come across and has multiple I/O ports for how you want to router. 62 fans? Holy mother of get another PSU just for the fans! LOL. Thought I was bad when I had 21 but got rid of the push pull and just went with better fans with more static pressure.


----------



## Shawnb99

JustinThyme said:


> Holy mother of get another PSU just for the fans! LOL. Thought I was bad when I had 21 but got rid of the push pull and just went with better fans with more static pressure.


I did. I grabbed a GTX850 just for the WC and fans.


----------



## JustinThyme

Shawnb99 said:


> I did. I grabbed a GTX850 just for the WC and fans.


LMAO
One more piece before the MORA goes into action and I’m up in the air on whether to use a spare PSU on that monstrosity or make an extra long power cord to get to it. Going to be sitting on a stand in the corner except for the late cold night overclocking runs where it will go in the window with the intake coming from outside. Already have coms figured out but don’t know if I can reach with a molex extension. Just two pumps and 9 fans ATM. If I add more fans to the other side it’s going to be 4x200Mm.


----------



## ChiTownButcher

How did you set it up? I am very interested and thankful for any information you can provide.


----------



## ChiTownButcher

Turgin said:


> I can confirm that it can. You don’t even have to use the Lian Li hub.


How did you set it up? Any information you can provide is greatly appreciated and wanted.


----------



## JustinThyme

ChiTownButcher said:


> How did you set it up? Any information you can provide is greatly appreciated and wanted.


What exactly is it you are looking for? 
These are pretty versatile yet a bit challenging to learn as their is no instruction manual. A good place to learn is reading on the aquaero forum and asking specific questions there. That forum is monitored by the manufacturer and they get back pretty quickly. If you want a step by step I don’t think there is one but telling us what you have for a rig, what you are looking to control and what you have to control it with is a good start.


----------



## ChiTownButcher

JustinThyme said:


> What exactly is it you are looking for?
> These are pretty versatile yet a bit challenging to learn as their is no instruction manual. A good place to learn is reading on the aquaero forum and asking specific questions there. That forum is monitored by the manufacturer and they get back pretty quickly. If you want a step by step I don’t think there is one but telling us what you have for a rig, what you are looking to control and what you have to control it with is a good start.


I was asking about running the Lian Li SL120 with a Farbwerk 360. Setting them up in Dynamic XL with a D5 Next pump. Turgin said he set them up without even using the Lian Li hub.


----------



## Turgin

ChiTownButcher said:


> How did you set it up? Any information you can provide is greatly appreciated and wanted.


The Unifans use a standard 3 pin JST connector that is in wide use on others like Phanteks and Asus. You just need the appropriate adapters. AC makes a cable that should work but I can't find anyone that stocks them in the US. I may buy a handful if they are in stock the next time I order direct from Aquacomputer which hopefully is when I am ordering my 3080 FTW3 block. That cable is AC p/n 53288 - RGBpx cable for ASUS components

Another option is to use the JST to ARGB cable included with the Unifans and an AC 53282 adapter to get it to RGBpx and then go straight to the farbwerk 360.

I used a JST to Corsair adapter cable I found on eBay to connect them to a Splitty4 and that to the farbwerk 360 using a standard RGBpx cable. Seller's name is piratedog_tech and they have several different types available.

HTH


----------



## JustinThyme

There are a lot of places to get the converter. I just got one to go from corsair to standard RGB last week from Fleabay.


----------



## WiLd FyeR

Building a new PC and will be swapping out the Aquaero 6XT with a Quadro onto the old PC. 

Will the Quadro be plug and play with the Aquaero 6XT profiles? 
Do I need to un-install and re-install AquaSuite before I install the Quadro?


----------



## JustinThyme

Save your profile before you do anything. Located in C:\ProgramData copy and paste the entire file to another location. Its a hidden file so make sure under your folder view options you have show hidden files and folders enabled. 
The latest X35 gave me some issues specifically with quadros and Octos updating firmware. I ended up uninstalling then reinstalling the software using the clean install option. DO NOT HAVE ANYTHING BUT USB AND POWER PLUGGED INTO THE QUADRO OR OCTO!! It will prompt you in broken English before the flash but thats what its getting at. Then once you are done simply replace the newly installed data file with the one you saved and you are back in business. You will have to of course set up the Quadro as a separate device if you are not using aquabus and you cannot flash it with aquabus, has to be on USB.
A previous version that they took down bricked my OCTO. They sent me a new one and didn't even want the old one back as they knew what transpired.


----------



## WiLd FyeR

Thank you @JustinThyme Rep+


----------



## InfoSeeker

WiLd FyeR said:


> Building a new PC and will be swapping out the Aquaero 6XT with a Quadro onto the old PC.
> 
> Will the Quadro be plug and play with the Aquaero 6XT profiles?
> Do I need to un-install and re-install AquaSuite before I install the Quadro?


The quadro will NOT be plug and play with the removed aquaero 6xt. Everything associated with the aquaero will be gone when it goes. No fan curves, no virtual sensors, no software temperature sensors, no alarms, nothing from the aquaero will remain... well, the logs may remain, but they will not be updated.

Everything in the playground will remain, though any sensor values taken from the aquaero will have to be re-linked.

The display pages will remain, though any sensor values taken from the aquaero will have to be re-linked.

You will have to setup the quadro from scratch, except what can be used from the playground.

EDIT: update to X.36 and the requirement to remove fans/pumps for a firmware update has been removed.


----------



## Rebeleleven

I’m trying to find a good solution to trigger a secondary PSU on when my main computer starts (ideally powering off from a USB).

I see some mentions of the relay for the Aquaero 6, but the manual/forums mention those as being to emergency shutdown a PC.

Anyone used the Aquaero & relay to start and stop a secondary PSU?


----------



## apw63

Rebeleleven said:


> I’m trying to find a good solution to trigger a secondary PSU on when my main computer starts (ideally powering off from a USB).
> 
> I see some mentions of the relay for the Aquaero 6, but the manual/forums mention those as being to emergency shutdown a PC.
> 
> Anyone used the Aquaero & relay to start and stop a secondary PSU?


i looked into trying this a few years back. I did not find a solution. I’m not saying there is not one, I just did not find one.


----------



## ManniX-ITA

Rebeleleven said:


> I’m trying to find a good solution to trigger a secondary PSU on when my main computer starts (ideally powering off from a USB).
> 
> I see some mentions of the relay for the Aquaero 6, but the manual/forums mention those as being to emergency shutdown a PC.
> 
> Anyone used the Aquaero & relay to start and stop a secondary PSU?


I'm planning to but I did not test it yet 

Guess should be enough to connect this to the 2nd PSU:





__





aquaero power connect - 24 pin ATX standby power / ATX break


aquaero power connect - 24 pin ATX standby power / ATX break: 24-poliger ATX-Zwischenstecker mit Standby-Stromversorgungsanschluss für ein aquaero 5 oder aquaduct XT sowie als Schlaufe herausgeführter ATX PS_ON#-Leitung (grün) zur möglichen Verwendung mit dem Schaltausgang eines aquaeros oder...




shop.aquacomputer.de





And the PS_ON line to the AQ relay.
Once the AQ shuts off the relay should go down and switch off the 2nd PSU as well.


----------



## Avacado

Rebeleleven said:


> I’m trying to find a good solution to trigger a secondary PSU on when my main computer starts (ideally powering off from a USB).
> 
> I see some mentions of the relay for the Aquaero 6, but the manual/forums mention those as being to emergency shutdown a PC.
> 
> Anyone used the Aquaero & relay to start and stop a secondary PSU?


add2psu? Would not be through Aquaero, but would not have to be.


----------



## Rebeleleven

ManniX-ITA said:


> AQ relay.
> Once the AQ shuts off the relay should go down and switch off the 2nd PSU as well.



Right - but the relay wired as normally open. There needs to be some sort of trigger to connect the relay circuit. From there, I _believe_ the relay would stay active... but this is where I'm super not sure.


----------



## Rebeleleven

Avacado said:


> add2psu? Would not be through Aquaero, but would not have to be.


This sadly won't work for me. I have a MoRa3 several feet away from my PC. I don't want to string molex connectors and all that jazz to it if I can avoid it. 


The add2psu requires a 12v line. I'm trying to configure a solution where I only have 1 USB cable (and the tubing) running from my PC to the MoRa. Ideally, I'd love to have a small PicoPSU mounted on the MoRa to power pumps/fans/hubs/whatever that would turn on/off with my normal PC.


----------



## Rebeleleven

apw63 said:


> i looked into trying this a few years back. I did not find a solution. I’m not saying there is not one, I just did not find one.


I've found several posts discussing it but no one ever mentions if it actually works or not. 

I might try to wire up my own relay using a low voltage solid state relay. Electronics diagrams aren't really my thing but a relay is 1/10th the price of an aquaero lol.


----------



## InfoSeeker

Rebeleleven said:


> This sadly won't work for me. I have a MoRa3 several feet away from my PC. I don't want to string molex connectors and all that jazz to it if I can avoid it.
> 
> 
> The add2psu requires a 12v line. I'm trying to configure a solution where I only have 1 USB cable (and the tubing) running from my PC to the MoRa. Ideally, I'd love to have a small PicoPSU mounted on the MoRa to power pumps/fans/hubs/whatever that would turn on/off with my normal PC.


Simple is always good.


----------



## Rebeleleven

InfoSeeker said:


> Simple is always good.


Not sure this fits the bill, sadly. Not too different than just stringing along a molex cable. Does look nice, though! 

While simple, not perfect. The added benefit of going the 5v USB route is to leverage the access to the data on the d5 Nexts/sensors attached to the MoRa.


----------



## InfoSeeker

Rebeleleven said:


> Not sure this fits the bill, sadly. Not too different than just stringing along a molex cable. Does look nice, though!
> 
> While simple, not perfect. The added benefit of going the 5v USB route is to leverage the access to the data on the d5 Nexts/sensors attached to the MoRa.


Six pins: two 12V, two 5V, two USB 2.0 data.
You can use THIS CABLE to get into the D5 NEXT on the radiator side.
You can get USB data & 5V using THIS or THIS on the computer side.
Then just pickup 12V from one of the PSU ports.

Bit of cable moding, but I think that will work.


----------



## iCrap

iCrap said:


> So my aquero has just randomly stopped recognizing any button presses from the Aquaremote thing. I dont see any IR settings in aquasuite, but on the device menus i have all the infrared functions checked. Any ideas? I changed the batteries already in the remote. Just wont do anything.


Anyone have any ideas on this? remote still wont work


----------



## InfoSeeker

iCrap said:


> Anyone have any ideas on this? remote still wont work


This may be too obvious, but is something I would fail at: Have you changed the batteries in the remote?


----------



## ManniX-ITA

Rebeleleven said:


> Right - but the relay wired as normally open. There needs to be some sort of trigger to connect the relay circuit. From there, I _believe_ the relay would stay active... but this is where I'm super not sure.


The relay connector has 3 pins:










Depends on which one you choose then will be NC or not.



iCrap said:


> Anyone have any ideas on this? remote still wont work


Look at the infrared emitter in front with your phone's camera; if you see the emitter blinking the RCU is working.


----------



## iCrap

Yeah I checked with my phone already, it is working. The aquero just is ignoring the commands for some reason. I did also put new batteries.


----------



## Rebeleleven

ManniX-ITA said:


> The relay connector has 3 pins:
> 
> View attachment 2476511
> 
> 
> Depends on which one you choose then will be NC or not.




Right, so if you wire the NC, you now have the same problem but in reverse. You will need some sort of trigger to activate (or deactivate) the relay.

If you wire the *NO* pin, then you need to trigger to close the circuit somehow when your computer starts up (to start the secondary PSU).

If you wire the *NC* pin, you would need to somehow open the circuit when your PC is off (to shut off the secondary PSU). If the aquaero just loses power, the Circuit will remain closed and the PSU will remain on. 

This relay is meant to be used in conjunction with the alarm state to force off the PSU. If the alarm state can be triggered from like CPU TEMP > 0c then maybe it would work for the NO pin. I’ve also found some other forum posts on the AC forums that say the relay does not provide a consistent signal. This seems to cause the PSU to turn on/off/on each time at first start.

Only seen a couple mentions of that, but not a lot of people even use the relay it seems.


----------



## Rebeleleven

Just to report back if anyone is trying something similar - 

I ended up picking up a solid state relay similar to this: TWTADE SSR-25 DD 25A (could be any relay that supports 5DC/500ma & 12DC/1a).

Wired up the 5v & ground from the USB on the input. On the output, connected PS_ON# and a COM (pins 4 & 5). As the computer turns on, the relay becomes powered and the secondary PSU turns on. Works independently of OS which was the goal. Looks like I can't convince myself to buy an Aquaero just yet .

Thanks for the help though, everyone!


----------



## ManniX-ITA

Rebeleleven said:


> Right, so if you wire the NC, you now have the same problem but in reverse. You will need some sort of trigger to activate (or deactivate) the relay.
> 
> If you wire the *NO* pin, then you need to trigger to close the circuit somehow when your computer starts up (to start the secondary PSU).
> 
> If you wire the *NC* pin, you would need to somehow open the circuit when your PC is off (to shut off the secondary PSU). If the aquaero just loses power, the Circuit will remain closed and the PSU will remain on.
> 
> This relay is meant to be used in conjunction with the alarm state to force off the PSU. If the alarm state can be triggered from like CPU TEMP > 0c then maybe it would work for the NO pin. I’ve also found some other forum posts on the AC forums that say the relay does not provide a consistent signal. This seems to cause the PSU to turn on/off/on each time at first start.
> 
> Only seen a couple mentions of that, but not a lot of people even use the relay it seems.


You can just define the relay state; if it's NO it will close it at boot and stay closed till it's powered, there's no need to set it with the alarm.

Didn't read that stuff about being unreliable... in case I have something like this:



https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07S48BVK5/



At first didn't planned to use the AQ.
But I liked the idea to have software controllable emergency switch off.


----------



## JustinThyme

Rebeleleven said:


> Just to report back if anyone is trying something similar -
> 
> I ended up picking up a solid state relay similar to this: TWTADE SSR-25 DD 25A (could be any relay that supports 5DC/500ma & 12DC/1a).
> 
> Wired up the 5v & ground from the USB on the input. On the output, connected PS_ON# and a COM (pins 4 & 5). As the computer turns on, the relay becomes powered and the secondary PSU turns on. Works independently of OS which was the goal. Looks like I can't convince myself to buy an Aquaero just yet .
> 
> Thanks for the help though, everyone!



This is what I would suggest. Simple and easy. Small relay with 5V coil N/O contact. It’s much easier to find an external USB to MOBO cable in an extended length. From that you need +5V and gnd to wire to the coil. N/O contact wired to 24 pin ATX on pins. Easier to buy a plug that already has the power pins jumped out and tap off of that instead of messing with the 24Pin connector itself. Cheap as dirt. 









24 Pin ATX Jump Start Power Supply Bridging Connector Plug WL | eBay


NOTE: 24 Pin ATX Power Supply Bridging Plug (Jump-Start) Bridging plug that allows you to run your power supply without plugging it in to the motherboard. Ideal for testing systems or testing watercooling loops.



www.ebay.com





5VDC coil relays can be found just about anywhere. Also cheap, you can get one that’s OPTO isolated from Amazon for like $7. 


I’m in the middle of the same thing with 10 ft of flex hose on MORA3 420 so I can move it around where I want to. May shorten it a little. It’s either another PSU or I’m most likely going to extend a power cable (wire, shrink tube and butt splices are cheap) to run out of my rear grommet and strap it up with the tubing along with a long USB A to MOBO USB to go to a Quadro and splitty on the MORA for fan and pump control. I’ll of course have to split up the power source at the other end but it’s not like there aren’t a million plug and play ways to do that. One Molex will be plenty to power all of it.


----------



## sultanofswing

Has anyone figured out how to have aquasuite show the sensors in "Desktop" mode on a second display?
Messed with it for a bit tonight but cannot get it to work, it only wants to put the sensors on my main display and not the 2nd display.
Trying to make a little sensor panel.
Right now I just drag the whole aquasuite window to my second display.


----------



## hisXLNC

is there any way to make the farbwerk control the motherboard rgb (ram/gpu)?


----------



## Turgin

sultanofswing said:


> Has anyone figured out how to have aquasuite show the sensors in "Desktop" mode on a second display?
> Messed with it for a bit tonight but cannot get it to work, it only wants to put the sensors on my main display and not the 2nd display.
> Trying to make a little sensor panel.
> Right now I just drag the whole aquasuite window to my second display.


I have the same problem and posed the same question on the AC forums a few weeks ago. The answer I was given is to activate the desktop mode and the lock at the desired overview page, now your entire desktop should be displayed in the Aquasuite. Move with the scrollbars to your overlay, mark all elements with the mouse and move them to the desired monitor.

I hope they make some improvements to this. At least make it overlay on the monitor where the app is open.


----------



## Turgin

hisXLNC said:


> is there any way to make the farbwerk control the motherboard rgb (ram/gpu)?


Unfortunately not possible as far as I know.


----------



## InfoSeeker

sultanofswing said:


> Has anyone figured out how to have aquasuite show the sensors in "Desktop" mode on a second display?
> Messed with it for a bit tonight but cannot get it to work, it only wants to put the sensors on my main display and not the 2nd display.
> Trying to make a little sensor panel.
> Right now I just drag the whole aquasuite window to my second display.
> View attachment 2476810


The aquasuite considers all monitors available as a single canvas. so add the monitors together for the full area.

My main monitor is 5120 x 2880 and the second monitor is 3840 x 2160, so the size of my canvas is 8960 x 2880... but the second monitor is not able ro display the full vertical resolution so it will have 'black bars' top and bottom, borrowing from television.

I have not yet developed my display page for this system, but I loaded one from an earlier unit and took a screenshot to illustrate how it works. I added white lines to delineate the two monitors, and mark the vertical display limits for the second monitor.


----------



## WiLd FyeR

Thank you @ info seeker Rep+


----------



## suty455

ratzofftoya said:


> OK, here's what I'm thinking for my new setup. Any thoughts?
> View attachment 2474899


Personally I would split those 6 fans into either 2 groups of 3 or 3 groups of 2 depending of course how they are set to cool/what they are cooling and then have them shutdown or start up sequentially, I do that with mine with the push pulls the push fans run from 22DegC upwards the pulls kick in at 28DegC and then mirror each other for the curve normally run the pushes at 650rpm ( 120mm noctuas) I dont ever see the pulls come on unless am playing games or pushing loads through the PC my front rad fans(140mm noctuas) start at 26DegC as well and the exhaust fans (3 140mm Noctuas) are set to a minimum of 250rpm and mirror the bottom fans in curve this cools a 3090 and a 3950 quite happily for long sessions, doing it this way you dont need the splitty and can make the wires a bit easier to hide the Pump also has an inbuilt Temp sensor as well so you could add that for Res Temp just to compare for the sake of it lol


----------



## Barefooter

sultanofswing said:


> Has anyone figured out how to have aquasuite show the sensors in "Desktop" mode on a second display?
> Messed with it for a bit tonight but cannot get it to work, it only wants to put the sensors on my main display and not the 2nd display.
> Trying to make a little sensor panel.
> Right now I just drag the whole aquasuite window to my second display.
> View attachment 2476810


You could also use Aquasuite Web as an alternative solution. It isn't as fancy of a display, but the data is there.

The lower picture here I'm monitoring the main rig from the far left monitor which is from the secondary rig.


----------



## CaliLife17

Hey all,

Been awhile since I have redone my computer so a little behind on a few things. Here is my current setup.

Optimus WC AMD foundation block for 5950x
Optimus WC for EVGA 3090 FTW
2x Aquacomputer D5 Aquabus pumps on an EK-XTOP Revo Dual D5 in Serial (250ml X3 res)
2x Black Ice Nemesis GTX 560mm
1x Black Ice Nemesis GTX 480mm
1x Black Ice Nemesis GTX 360
1x Black Ice Nemesis GTX 240
Currently I have an Aquaero 6 XT with 2 D5 pumps (connected to Aquabus), a old school Aquacomputer Flow sensor, and a couple of water temp sensors. For the 34 radiator fans, I am currently using just some cheap PWM splitters on each of the PWM headers on the Aquaero.

My buddy just gave me a few items from a couple of builds he parted out:
2x D5 next pumps
2x Octo’s
2x Hubby7
3x Splitty9

I also have a new High Flow Next.

I am trying to figure out how to do a better job of managing all my fans, incorporate the new D5 next pumps and the high flow Next. I still want to keep my Aquaero 6 XT, so what would be the best way to connect all of this?

Should I connect the 2x Splitty9’s to the Aquabus ports to the Aquaero 6 XT, then use each of those as aquabus splitters for the Pumps and Octo? Do I need the Hubby7s For any internal USB extensions? How would I add a Farbwerk 360 for some ARGB action? Any suggestions would be helpful.


----------



## WiLd FyeR

Noticed Aquasuite software was at a constant 15-16% cpu usage but able to fix it by restarting. Just wanted to check if this is a known issue.


----------



## JustinThyme

I get that from time to time but it settles out. Normally a result of something going on like a check for updates. I’ve not had it hang nor has it gone to 15%. Usually just a little load on one of 18 cores.


----------



## JustinThyme

CaliLife17 said:


> Hey all,
> 
> Been awhile since I have redone my computer so a little behind on a few things. Here is my current setup.
> 
> Optimus WC AMD foundation block for 5950x
> Optimus WC for EVGA 3090 FTW
> 2x Aquacomputer D5 Aquabus pumps on an EK-XTOP Revo Dual D5 in Serial (250ml X3 res)
> 2x Black Ice Nemesis GTX 560mm
> 1x Black Ice Nemesis GTX 480mm
> 1x Black Ice Nemesis GTX 360
> 1x Black Ice Nemesis GTX 240
> Currently I have an Aquaero 6 XT with 2 D5 pumps (connected to Aquabus), a old school Aquacomputer Flow sensor, and a couple of water temp sensors. For the 34 radiator fans, I am currently using just some cheap PWM splitters on each of the PWM headers on the Aquaero.
> 
> My buddy just gave me a few items from a couple of builds he parted out:
> 2x D5 next pumps
> 2x Octo’s
> 2x Hubby7
> 3x Splitty9
> 
> I also have a new High Flow Next.
> 
> I am trying to figure out how to do a better job of managing all my fans, incorporate the new D5 next pumps and the high flow Next. I still want to keep my Aquaero 6 XT, so what would be the best way to connect all of this?
> 
> Should I connect the 2x Splitty9’s to the Aquabus ports to the Aquaero 6 XT, then use each of those as aquabus splitters for the Pumps and Octo? Do I need the Hubby7s For any internal USB extensions? How would I add a Farbwerk 360 for some ARGB action? Any suggestions would be helpful.


The splitty can be connected to any port on the 6XT or the octos. What you have to account for is the current draw of the fans connected don’t exceed the limits of the port it’s connected to. I believe they are all 1A so all of the fans combined on the splitty cannot exceed that. As for the pumps they can be aquabus or USB. Fabwerks 360 can also be connected via USB or aquabus. A lot of people choose to connect everything by USB so you don’t have to go though the PITA of disconnecting aquabus and connecting USB for every firmware update, there’s be a lot lately, especially with the OCTO. 

You have a good friend! The Next Flowmeter is unobtainable ATM. I ordered one from ModMyMods that said in stock ready to ship. They took my money and I’m waiting on a shipment notification that never came. Called them and they said their website never said in stock that it’s a back order item and they have no clue when they are coming in and wanted to charge me 10% to cancel the order. So I turned it over to my CC company. I don’t preorder or back order anything. If you have it I’ll buy it. If not then I’ll look elsewhere but don’t lie to me then expect me to pay you 10% for having done nothing but fail to update your webpage that I sent them a screen shot of and lie to people. Of course now it says back order.


----------



## Pinnacle Fit

Is aquacomputer gonna be doing 3080/90 blocks? 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## JustinThyme

They don’t do many GPU blocks at all. When they do it’s always reference.


----------



## suty455

JustinThyme said:


> They don’t do many GPU blocks at all. When they do it’s always reference.


They have them already


----------



## suty455

Question I need answering please I have a Alphacool Eiseball you tube in which the pump fits inside a housing, I would like to use the D5 from alphacool but it has the socket on the base that makes it impossible, is there a remote harness to connect this up so the pump is in fact the same external diameter as all the other D5s on the market, the 755 I currently have makes an annoying whine and am looking for a quieter one.


----------



## JustinThyme

You’d either have to operate on it using the current socket or buy another pump. There are a lot out there. The 755 is supposed to be stronger and quieter according to the propaganda that’s usually a lie. I’ve found two that I stick with. D5 Next and primochill enhanced PWM. I see a lot post that a D5 is a D5 but I’d argue that point. Yes they are all designed around the Laing but they are all very different. Worst I ever ran that people raved about was swiftech vario. Two came in DOA and tried one other that stayed in just long enough for something else to arrive. Run a pair of PWM on a serial head and offset the speeds a bit (takes some trial and error) and you can tune them where you achieve acoustic noise cancellation. Of course a vibration dampening mount is recommended.


----------



## Section31

Pinnacle Fit said:


> Is aquacomputer gonna be doing 3080/90 blocks?
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


They already said - reference, strix and ftw3


----------



## Pinnacle Fit

Section31 said:


> They already said - reference, strix and ftw3


Didn’t see it. Thanks 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## JustinThyme

Section31 said:


> They already said - reference, strix and ftw3


That’s quite surprising. Last generation they did reference 2080ti amd reference Titan and same for several generations. I did see strix list d this go round. I wanted to try out that active back play last gen but it never happened on the strix. I’m happy with the Heal Killer though. Keeps everything under 40C no matter what I throw at it. Highest delta of 12C. Easy stuff like heaven the delta is 8C.


----------



## Turgin

They need to hurry up and release the FTW3 block so I don't do something stupid like buy the Bykski or ek. I'm putting off a loop teardown until I get a block for my 3080 and this high flow NEXT is giving me the stink eye for keeping it sidelined for so long.


----------



## JustinThyme

I’ll take the stink eye off of you. Can’t find one. The next V2 will be out before the block is.


Edit: Nevermind. Found one on fleabay. Paid more than the going rate in the US but with free shipping it’s less than ordering direct from Aquacomputer. Their flat rate shipping isn’t worth it unless you are making a big order and I’ve bought about one of everything already. Bottom line is no one has them period and I’m in a dispute with ModMyMods that said in stock ready to ship until I called and they said they had been sold out over a month amd wanted to charge me 10% to cancel an order that was fraudulent in the first place. Of course it says Back orders accepted now but I got a screen shot of in stock ready to ship and it didn’t ship. Then when I told them I wasn’t paying it and told Sean if that’s how he spells it that I was going to file dispute he laughed, said good luck with that then hung up. Won’t get any money from me again.


----------



## Turgin

Wow, that's crazy. Sorry to hear that as I've always had a good experience with them. It was listed as a pre-order when I ordered on 12/4. I finally received the NEXT sometime first week of January which seemed reasonable to me considering. Kind of anxious to try it out since I don't know if it was part of the defective batch I read about.

I told myself I was going to hold off on installing it until I had a GPU block so I only take the loop down once but its killing me.


----------



## JustinThyme

Only the second time Id order anything from then in the last year and the last time also said in stock and ready to ship and took more than a month to make a 5 hour journey from Rochester NY to my locaiton via priority mail that I paid extra for, just to find out it was drop shipped. Ive jjust never had any smooth dealings with them the several times i have dealt wit them. PPCS if it say in stock, its in stock, they dont back order and if there is any delay or problem they let me know before ship time in the afternoon. Very good vendor and they carry far more than ModMyMods does. Id never have ordered it if it said back ordered. I actually searched out and they were the only ones that said "In Stock Ready To Ship" Just not a reliable source. PPCS, Dazmod or Frozen CPU are for more reliable and the Sean guy laughing at me and hanging up really tweaked my melon. Just screwing someone over then wanting to charge them 10% for clicking a cancel button? BITE ME!!! Just not into playing games. I ordered, I pay, you ship, end of story and everyone is happy. Most of the items they list that Im even remotely interested in are nearly always out of stock. I drove by there while visiting my sister who doenst live far. Its a small section of a large warehouse building, probably less than 5000 sqft if that right next to a carpet store and right down the block from a Jehovahs witness church thats far bigger than they are. My guess is 90% or better of what they sell is dropped shipped.


----------



## suty455

JustinThyme said:


> You’d either have to operate on it using the current socket or buy another pump. There are a lot out there. The 755 is supposed to be stronger and quieter according to the propaganda that’s usually a lie. I’ve found two that I stick with. D5 Next and primochill enhanced PWM. I see a lot post that a D5 is a D5 but I’d argue that point. Yes they are all designed around the Laing but they are all very different. Worst I ever ran that people raved about was swiftech vario. Two came in DOA and tried one other that stayed in just long enough for something else to arrive. Run a pair of PWM on a serial head and offset the speeds a bit (takes some trial and error) and you can tune them where you achieve acoustic noise cancellation. Of course a vibration dampening mount is recommended.


Thanks for the info the VP755 is a joke it says powerful yada yada yet it tops out at 14w, have placed an order for an aquacomputer PWM controlled one which is rated at 37w big difference and I wont get the hum driving me nuts any more.


----------



## JustinThyme

suty455 said:


> Thanks for the info the VP755 is a joke it says powerful yada yada yet it tops out at 14w, have placed an order for an aquacomputer PWM controlled one which is rated at 37w big difference and I wont get the hum driving me nuts any more.


I have one aquacomputer pump in my system, D5 Next and it works flawlessly. I don’t use all of the abilities but having it pop up in aqua suite and being able to control it and get another liquid temp point is great.


----------



## ChiTownButcher

Has the Quadro and Octo been discontinued or are they just sold out? Going to hook up 3x3 + Single Lian Li SL120 and the Splitty4 seems to be passive to the whole 10 fans would draw off a single PWM Mobo Port? That won't work.... I have been looking for a Quadro since it can be connected VIA USB and will allow aquasuite to control my fans. Using Farbwerk360 to control the LED side of things.

Please tell me the Quadro is not discontinued? Or if it is a RGBpx version is on the way.


----------



## JustinThyme

They are sold out AFAIK. Don’t see them dropping them when a lot of people go for an Octo or quadro over an aquaero because they get what they want out of a cheaper product. I use them all. The Next Flowmeter that is a fairly new product is available nowhere either. They make good stuff and stay sold out. I don’t know if they are controlling the supply or not. Some do just to keep the demand up and overhead down not having to sit on a stagnant supply. While they have an online store they will tell you they are not a distributor. Same with Watercool. Their primary customers are Distributor and retailer orders. When you go to watercool website to order a block and it’s listed as available that doesn’t mean they have them on the shelf. It means they are scheduled in the production run for distribution and they simply add your order to the run. How long it takes is dependent on when the run is scheduled. Sometimes you get your stuff quick and others it’s a month before it ships just because you placed your order after a recent run and they aren’t scheduled to run that product for a month. They use the same machines to make many parts. Sometimes they get held up waiting on raw materials and others it’s waiting on plating as no one does that in house.


----------



## Turgin

Any opinions on their DP Ultra coolant? I've always used Mayhems but seeing the issues people are reporting with the fluid quality sensors in the high flow NEXT is making me consider switching to it.


----------



## InfoSeeker

ChiTownButcher said:


> Has the Quadro and Octo been discontinued or are they just sold out? Going to hook up 3x3 + Single Lian Li SL120 and the Splitty4 seems to be passive to the whole 10 fans would draw off a single PWM Mobo Port? That won't work.... I have been looking for a Quadro since it can be connected VIA USB and will allow aquasuite to control my fans. Using Farbwerk360 to control the LED side of things.
> 
> Please tell me the Quadro is not discontinued? Or if it is a RGBpx version is on the way.


The QUADRO is still in their lineup & can do 1 string of 90 5V aRGBs, no farbwerk360 needed.
The OCTO is also still in their lineup & can do 2 strings of 90 5V aRGBs, no farbwerk needed... AND is available in their webshop at the time I posted this.

Edit: the OCTO appears to be available on aquatuing in 5 or 6 days from when this was posted.


----------



## Barefooter

Turgin said:


> Any opinions on their DP Ultra coolant? I've always used Mayhems but seeing the issues people are reporting with the fluid quality sensors in the high flow NEXT is making me consider switching to it.


Yes the DP Ultra coolant is excellent. Running red in here of a year and a half straight and it still looks like new!


----------



## InfoSeeker

Turgin said:


> Any opinions on their DP Ultra coolant? I've always used Mayhems but seeing the issues people are reporting with the fluid quality sensors in the high flow NEXT is making me consider switching to it.


I have used the DP Ultra for a few years sans issues, but I have built a new system every 14 to 18 months, so that would be my longest run time.


----------



## Shawnb99

Turgin said:


> Any opinions on their DP Ultra coolant? I've always used Mayhems but seeing the issues people are reporting with the fluid quality sensors in the high flow NEXT is making me consider switching to it.


I'd take the quality readings with a grain of salt. They have never said what constitutes quality or what affects its readings.


----------



## sultanofswing

So I am trying to figure out if I have a bad Aquabus High port on my Aquaero or if 3 different flow sensors are not communicating over aquabus.
I always run both USB and Aquabus connections and no matter what I do I now cannot get any of the flow sensors to show up over aquabus so they can be displayed in the Aquaero sensors tab.
I've powered the system down numerous times each time removing power to the PSU and I have tried 3 different 3 pin "aquabus" cables (ran these before no issues as long as USB is connected).
I tried a complete uninstall/reinstall of Aquasuite X36 to no avail. I have also tried the "find Aquabus Devices" numerous times with no luck.


----------



## InfoSeeker

Regarding HIGH FLOW NEXT water quality, click HERE a short blurb on water conductivity, the science at the heart of the water quality sensor.

For me the interesting value returned by the HIGH FLOW NEXT is 'Conductivity' which reflects the level of particulates in the coolant... the higher the conductivity, the greater level of particulates in the coolant, and consequently the lower the coolant quality. That is the same for all fluids from any manufacturer, or homemade.

Where the calibration comes in, is the 'Water Quality percentage', which is calculated using a known conductivity for a fresh coolant with purposefully introduced particulates (anti corrosives/biocides). Additional additives, Pastels, coloring, etc. will increase the conductivity of a coolant requiring a different baseline for 100%.


----------



## JustinThyme

sultanofswing said:


> So I am trying to figure out if I have a bad Aquabus High port on my Aquaero or if 3 different flow sensors are not communicating over aquabus.
> I always run both USB and Aquabus connections and no matter what I do I now cannot get any of the flow sensors to show up over aquabus so they can be displayed in the Aquaero sensors tab.
> I've powered the system down numerous times each time removing power to the PSU and I have tried 3 different 3 pin "aquabus" cables (ran these before no issues as long as USB is connected).
> I tried a complete uninstall/reinstall of Aquasuite X36 to no avail. I have also tried the "find Aquabus Devices" numerous times with no luck.


As I understood it the connection is one or the other not both. May want to try unplugging the aquabus and see it they show up in USB. I’ve never tried both at the same time as all the literature says you can only run one or the other.

with all the crap going on lately (I lost an OCTO on X23 I think it was on Jan 14 push and didn’t want a repeat so I’ve stopped using the aquabus and just put everything on USB and used the playground to make software sensors where needed. I liked it better the other way and had to do some reconfiguration but I’d rather play it safe for awhile even though they said it’s now not necessary to unplug everything to update but firmware updates have always been USB only.


----------



## JustinThyme

InfoSeeker said:


> Regarding HIGH FLOW NEXT water quality, click HERE a short blurb on water conductivity, the science at the heart of the water quality sensor.
> 
> For me the interesting value returned by the HIGH FLOW NEXT is 'Conductivity' which reflects the level of particulates in the coolant... the higher the conductivity, the greater level of particulates in the coolant, and consequently the lower the coolant quality. That is the same for all fluids from any manufacturer, or homemade.
> 
> Where the calibration comes in, is the 'Water Quality percentage', which is calculated using a known conductivity for a fresh coolant with purposefully introduced particulates (anti corrosives/biocides). Additional additives, Pastels, coloring, etc. will increase the conductivity of a coolant requiring a different baseline for 100%.


Just installed this flowmeter tonight. Flow rate is far from previous high flow meter and BarrowCH so this one has me thinking as well. There used to be a decent Excel spreadsheet that you could enter your components, tubing, length, fittings, blocks and pumps but its very outdated. Think once Im done with all the modifications Im going to borrow the mass flow meter again from my buddy to see what the actual flowrate is because now I don't know what to believe. If it was a few points difference Id just calbrate to what I had. Buts its damn near half. Unless I fubared some pump connections which isnt out of the question.


----------



## sultanofswing

JustinThyme said:


> Just installed this flowmeter tonight. Flow rate is far from previous high flow meter and BarrowCH so this one has me thinking as well. There used to be a decent Excel spreadsheet that you could enter your components, tubing, length, fittings, blocks and pumps but its very outdated. Think once Im done with all the modifications Im going to borrow the mass flow meter again from my buddy to see what the actual flowrate is because now I don't know what to believe. If it was a few points difference Id just calbrate to what I had. Buts its damn near half. Unless I fubared some pump connections which isnt out of the question.


You were using an MPS sensor before correct? I think I remember you saying that and I personally thought your flow numbers were inflated.
The MPS sensors have to be calibrated and without a proper calibration are not very accurate. This is why I use the High Flow USB sensor as it is the most accurate you can get right up there with lab testing equipment.
I have a MPS 400 here and it was never accurate.
As far as using USB and Aquabus you can indeed use both at the same time as I have been doing for years.


----------



## JustinThyme

sultanofswing said:


> You were using an MPS sensor before correct? I think I remember you saying that and I personally thought your flow numbers were inflated.
> The MPS sensors have to be calibrated and without a proper calibration are not very accurate. This is why I use the High Flow USB sensor as it is the most accurate you can get right up there with lab testing equipment.
> I have a MPS 400 here and it was never accurate. Ive never tried an MPS 400
> As far as using USB and Aquabus you can indeed use both at the same time as I have been doing for years.


I was initially using the high aquaero high flow sensor AQ-53068 that I checked against a high dollar calibrated to a gnats a$$ mass flow meter and it was within 1% so I called it good then compared that to the barrowch that was in the same realm and had always had about 3L/min per pump. Now the Next is showing 2L/min per pump or 360L/hr. Ive never tried an MPS 400

Ill have to look up what manual I referred to but Im sure it said its aqaubus or USB and not both but just saw on a quadro that you can on that manual. Aquaero maual is too much to read ATM as its late and in the connections part is just where to hook up what and once you have the device configured you can disconnect the USB but Ive always left mine connected as I use the information on my desktop screen. Had I known that you can do both Id have been doing it all along and will certainly try it.


----------



## sultanofswing

JustinThyme said:


> I was initially using the high aquaero high flow sensor AQ-53068 that I checked against a high dollar calibrated to a gnats a$$ mass flow meter and it was within 1% so I called it good then compared that to the barrowch that was in the same realm and had always had about 3L/min per pump. Now the Next is showing 2L/min per pump or 360L/hr. Ive never tried an MPS 400
> 
> Ill have to look up what manual I referred to but Im sure it said its aqaubus or USB and not both but just saw on a quadro that you can on that manual. Aquaero maual is too much to read ATM as its late and in the connections part is just where to hook up what and once you have the device configured you can disconnect the USB but Ive always left mine connected as I use the information on my desktop screen. Had I known that you can do both Id have been doing it all along and will certainly try it.


You can use USB and a 3 pin for aquabus.


----------



## Bartdude

I use both USB and Aquabus and it works fine.


----------



## Bartdude

I have and use an MPS 400, initially had problems with it loosing flow and showing 0! One day topping off my loop I noticed the flow return and stay steady. Turned out it was a pressure equalisation issue. I bought this and screwed it into the top of my res, that was 3 years ago and it's still working strong to this day.


----------



## Barefooter

Bartdude said:


> I have and use an MPS 400, initially had problems with it loosing flow and showing 0! One day topping off my loop I noticed the flow return and stay steady. Turned out it was a pressure equalisation issue. I bought this and screwed it into the top of my res, that was 3 years ago and it's still working strong to this day.


I use a pressure equalization membrane on top of my reservoir as well. 

Apparently they are required if you use a fill level sensor in the Aqualis reservoir.


----------



## InfoSeeker

Interesting POST for those using HWiNFO.


----------



## ManniX-ITA

I'm surprised, thought Aquasuite being a commercial application was using a licensed SDK.
But it's mentioned as one of the applications that will cease to work...


----------



## InfoSeeker

I read it a little differently... the non-Pro version will run the shared memory for 12 consecutive hours, at which time it will cease to function, regardless of whose or which application it shares with. A restart of HWiNFO will reset the timer.

The Pro version will not have the time limitation.

It doesn't appear to be a function of the shared application, but a limitation implemented in HWiNFO to effectively act as a nag-screen.


----------



## ManniX-ITA

That's correct and will impact all applications using SHM to access monitoring data.
But I thought commercial applications (meaning where the monitoring function is core) should all have licensed the commercial SDK.
Otherwise why all this fuss due to paid apps earning money from a freeware?

Seems to me that Aquasuite is precisely fitting the profile here.
I see a problem if on top of the Aquasuite subscription the user is also forced to pay for HWInfo Personal Pro.
I'll probably do it anyway but it doesn't look fair for the users and neither for HWInfo's Martin which didn't see a dime.


----------



## JustinThyme

ManniX-ITA said:


> That's correct and will impact all applications using SHM to access monitoring data.
> But I thought commercial applications (meaning where the monitoring function is core) should all have licensed the commercial SDK.
> Otherwise why all this fuss due to paid apps earning money from a freeware?
> 
> Seems to me that Aquasuite is precisely fitting the profile here.
> I see a problem if on top of the Aquasuite subscription the user is also forced to pay for HWInfo Personal Pro.
> I'll probably do it anyway but it doesn't look fair for the users and neither for HWInfo's Martin which didn't see a dime.


You pay for aquasuite as a proprietary software able to communicate with aqauacomputer devices. It can also pull info from AIDA 64 monitoring points which makes HWINFO lackluster. The point that both aqua suite and AIDA64 can run simultaneously for days on end with no conflicts says everything you need to know. Whatever is in HWINFO you can pull into aquasuite by its own hardware monitoring or several hundred points that is within AIDA64.

Benchmarks tend to be based more on HWINFO for comparisons because it’s free and not everyone runs aqauacomputer devices, actually very few. Very Niche market especially with all the kids running AIOs because they think it can cool as well as a custom loop and when proven wrong it’s back to well I don’t need a custom loop for which my reply is then you may as well run air as with the top of the line air coolers being produced now are right their in the realm of AIOs. All depends on how much you want to spend and whether or not you intend on getting Max clocks.


----------



## InfoSeeker

I used to be a FanBoy of Aida64, way back when they started their widget. They were very responsive to user input then, but as time passed that diminished. Case in point, I, and others, asked they pick up data from the Corsair AXxxxxi digital PSU,s... their reply was "go pound sand". The same request was put to Martin, and shortly there after HWiNFO could pull sensor data from an AX1600i.

I run HWiNFO constantly, and have never had an issue sourced to it.

I'm not saying Aida64 is bad. I am saying, for me, HWiNFO is the better product.


----------



## Section31

InfoSeeker said:


> Regarding HIGH FLOW NEXT water quality, click HERE a short blurb on water conductivity, the science at the heart of the water quality sensor.
> 
> For me the interesting value returned by the HIGH FLOW NEXT is 'Conductivity' which reflects the level of particulates in the coolant... the higher the conductivity, the greater level of particulates in the coolant, and consequently the lower the coolant quality. That is the same for all fluids from any manufacturer, or homemade.
> 
> Where the calibration comes in, is the 'Water Quality percentage', which is calculated using a known conductivity for a fresh coolant with purposefully introduced particulates (anti corrosives/biocides). Additional additives, Pastels, coloring, etc. will increase the conductivity of a coolant requiring a different baseline for 100%.


That explains my results when i add mayhem xt1 concentrate to distilled water. I got to reconsider my coolant next rebuild


----------



## Leonko

InfoSeeker said:


> "go pound sand".




but now you will have all sensors from HWiNFO in AIDA64 too, finally.  thanks to sharing memory option.


----------



## ManniX-ITA

JustinThyme said:


> You pay for aquasuite as a proprietary software able to communicate with aqauacomputer devices. It can also pull info from AIDA 64 monitoring points which makes HWINFO lackluster. The point that both aqua suite and AIDA64 can run simultaneously for days on end with no conflicts says everything you need to know. Whatever is in HWINFO you can pull into aquasuite by its own hardware monitoring or several hundred points that is within AIDA64.
> 
> Benchmarks tend to be based more on HWINFO for comparisons because it’s free and not everyone runs aqauacomputer devices, actually very few. Very Niche market especially with all the kids running AIOs because they think it can cool as well as a custom loop and when proven wrong it’s back to well I don’t need a custom loop for which my reply is then you may as well run air as with the top of the line air coolers being produced now are right their in the realm of AIOs. All depends on how much you want to spend and whether or not you intend on getting Max clocks.


I've never seen any option to pull sensors data from AIDA64.
They can be either disabled or enabled.
Maybe it was available in earlier versions?


----------



## JustinThyme

ManniX-ITA said:


> I've never seen any option to pull sensors data from AIDA64.
> They can be either disabled or enabled.
> Maybe it was available in earlier versions?


You first have to have AIDA 64 installed then enable external devices in AIDA64. Then everything pops up in Aquasuite. That was the original purpose I bought AIDA64 in the first place and didn’t learn its other capabilities until after the fact. I’ll post up a few pics in a bit showing where to navigate to in AIDA64. It works in all versions. I’m running it now on X36. You do have to have AIDA64 set to launch with windows and it does have to be running. I set it to launch, no splash screen and minimize to system tray. AIDA64 also has its own OSD that can be implemented and customized.


----------



## JustinThyme

InfoSeeker said:


> I used to be a FanBoy of Aida64, way back when they started their widget. They were very responsive to user input then, but as time passed that diminished. Case in point, I, and others, asked they pick up data from the Corsair AXxxxxi digital PSU,s... their reply was "go pound sand". The same request was put to Martin, and shortly there after HWiNFO could pull sensor data from an AX1600i.
> 
> I run HWiNFO constantly, and have never had an issue sourced to it.
> 
> I'm not saying Aida64 is bad. I am saying, for me, HWiNFO is the better product.


It doesn’t work for me. They show up with big red blocks beside them and won’t enable. I use IQue as it’s running anyhow and can plot a nice graph with in, out and efficiency. Can do the same with everything related to the PSU but all I’m concerned with is the power for the most part. Voltage is monitored at MOBO level by other means. I’m running an AX1600i and it could be due to too many devices polling.


----------



## JustinThyme

To get AIDA64 into aquasuite. Nothhing needs to be done in aquasuite, it just shows up. Open AIDA64, Top left select preferences this will open another window. Scroll down to external applications. Then check boxes as shown in photo. You also have to ability to be selective on what you want under it, its a very LONG list, I just select all then select apply. Next scroll up to general preferences and set as shown in picture and apply then reboot. This will launch it at startup, no splash screen and minimize to sys tray whether you minimize or click on the X it goes to sys tray. You know its there when you expand sys tray and see the red square with a 64 in the middle of it.

When thats done any place you want to add a sensor to something and you go to select senor expand data from aqua computer service and its all there. I scrolled down to the bottom on last shot for one of my favorites that I cant seem to get anywhere else, VRM temp.

















































This has worked without exception since I started using their products several years ago and like I said I found out about this on aquasuite forums and bought AIDA64 Extreme for less than its current price of $39.95 several years back I think it was $10 less and its a forever license on one machine. May be possible to install on multiples. Ive not had any issues reinstalling on several builds so shouldnt be a problem. Ill not go into the OSD but its in the preferences window also and I have what I want set up for that too and dock it on the right vertically. I just enable or disable it when I want to use it. Choose what you want out of the list that is too long to display on screen, modify font size and color or rename them as well as justification center, right or left. Nice tool and I often have it up and running always on top while doing whatever so I can see whats going on. Normal day I just have my customized aqausuite off of the 6 pro running on my desktop top right. The others hog up too much room. although I have them all assigned for what I want and can pull it up in a pinch.












Hope this helps people to get AIDA64 working for you in Aquasuite. Took me several days of reading aquaero forums as the system is just too complex to have a manual that covers everything.


AS for PSU monitoring I can look at everything and graph it from IQue or add it to any aqua suite screen I want VIA AIDA64 but I prefer the manufacturers solution and getting actual voltages from MOBO monitor points.











I use HWINFO when posting up benches but kill everything else because it’s free and AIDA64 and Aquasuite is more of a niche group. If I want power from socket I can get that off of my online dual conversion 2200vA APC smart UPS (work benefits!) and simply log into it through Ethernet and set the polling rate to update every second or what’s appropriate. I normally leave it logging 24x7 with a 10 min polling rate. Of course all outages and faults it grabs instantly and I get an email of what’s going on and another when it clears. That’s always input blips or outright outages. If the UPS itself has a hardware fault I get that too but fortunately I’ve not had that happen thus far.


----------



## InfoSeeker

That procedure is identical to HWiNFO, except HWiNFO has 'Shared Memory Support' selected by default:









HWiNFO listed in aquasuite:









Corsair from HWiNFO:









I prefer to NOT have two programs constantly sampling.
The end result is mostly the same between the two, I just happen to appreciate Martin's attitude over Fiery's, if he is still with Aida64.


----------



## JustinThyme

Yep, tried that, no go. Doesn’t show up for me at all. Im good where I’m at and will continue to run HWINFO when I need and AIDA64 as my mainstay. Wouldn’t change over a request not getting fulfilled when in actuality, all the voltages are there in both no matter whose PSU it is.

I don’t know the who is who in any of these. I just know what gives me what I want and where and when I want it. Last I checked you can’t run an FPU stress or Cache and memory bench with HWINFO or a lot of other things. To each his own. I use both but AIDA64 is my primary. I’ve actually been having a lot of issues with the latest HWINFO release, not beta. Take a year to launch and display then refresh locks up constantly every single time. I’ve uninstalled and reinstalled and actually ended up going back a rev or three to get more stable.

I use what works for me and in all honestly only run the HWINFO for comparisons so they are apples to apples with others who dont have and won’t buy AIDA64.
Nice that you have a working relationship with the code writer. No big secret. If you have the mapping you can pull any info from whatever you want. We do the same in enterprise data centers with building management. One big screen and a user can see everything in the building from a single server to the power grid feeding it as well as CRACs and chillers, lighting, doors on servers racks, leak detection ropes and netbotz everything. One difference is all of our mapping is licensed and you think the toys we play with is expensive! It’s all per point and has to be renewed every year. I’m not in the finance dept but we take in millions just from that annually. Have actually made it more attractive for them to pay us to monitor it all then it’s out of their hair. Something goes wrong we call them with the necessary on call person already dispatched and an ETA on their arrival. They pay big $$ for a 4 hour response time from alarm to arrival 24x7x365. The only thing we can’t do anything about is their utility provider and their response. We notify them but they often react at a glacial pace. Doesn’t matter too much other than the cost to run 50 Megawatts of diesel gen sets.

We do this service globally but it’s broken down into regional centers. I live within an hour of the largest data centers on the planet. I was speaking with a rep of what we classify as medium data center in the financial sector and he said that site turns $8,300,000,000 in transactions every day. It’s nearly impossible for them to go down with 4 levels of redundancy on everything but in the unlikely event that it does it’s all mirrored elsewhere with the same set up.


----------



## sultanofswing

Is anyone on version X36 and using Aquabus? If so is it working for you?


----------



## JustinThyme

sultanofswing said:


> Is anyone on version X36 and using Aquabus? If so is it working for you?


Yes and works fine. Just have to have USB connected when updating as it has firmware updates in there.


----------



## sultanofswing

JustinThyme said:


> Yes and works fine. Just have to have USB connected when updating as it has firmware updates in there.


I cannot get 2 different Aquaero 6xt's and 3 different flow sensors to work over Aquabus on 2 different systems.
Both USB and Aquabus cables are connected. Have tried both 3 and 4 pin for Aquabus to no Avail.
Nothing will show up under the Aquabus tab no matter how many times I power cycle or click the search for aquabus devices.


----------



## WiLd FyeR

Can the Aquaero 6 XT control AIO and or D5 pumps?


----------



## JustinThyme

WiLd FyeR said:


> Can the Aquaero 6 XT control AIO and or D5 pumps?


If its a PWM pump no sweat. If its not you have to buy a poweradjust to be able to handle the load. I have two D5s PWMs off of one channel going to a powered splitter. Power for pumps are Molex and separate PWM leads. runs them perfectly. Ive since split them to two different channels as Im using OCTO and QUADRO for fan control which will also control a PWM pump.


----------



## superguest

I recently found a used Aquaero 6 Pro and I am looking for some user reviews/feedbacks on the optional remote control unit. Apart from it being a wireless keyboard for the PC, what are its main features or typical usage?


----------



## InfoSeeker

superguest said:


> I recently found a used Aquaero 6 Pro and I am looking for some user reviews/feedbacks on the optional remote control unit. Apart from it being a wireless keyboard for the PC, what is it's main features or typical usage?


Fo me, the remote is only useful if you are using a non-windows OS (Linux), as it is slightly better than using the buttons on the face. But you are still restricted to the limited LCD display for feedback. I foolishly purchased a 6 PRO about a year ago and the remote is still in it's plastic wrapping.

It is SOooo much easier to use the aquasuite.


----------



## superguest

@InfoSeeker
I understand that you enjoy using it, but Is it worth the money? Do you know where I can find a North American retailer that sells this product as shipping cost & import charges from Europe can get outrageous.


----------



## JustinThyme

Never really had any use for a remote. When I bought the 6Pro it had the option of with or without remote. I chose no remote. Not like I would ever use it. Set it up in aquasuite and done. I dont even know why they bothered adding multiple profiles, guess some folks wanted it. I keep my pumps at the same speeds and fans job is to keep the liquid under 32C. Starts warming up under load and they ramp up slowly and accordingly. Even with two GPUs and an 18 core CPU they never hit max speed. Only time I changed that was setting everything for static speeds testing CPU blocks as they wanted different flow rates in increments of 25,50,75 and 100%, steady ambient temp and fans at 25,50,75 and 100% with the same load repeated for 30 mins and a cool down in between. That took a lot of time. I spent a good month testing two blocks.

But other than that.....auto pilot all the way, that's why I invested in aquaero products. Tried MOBO...Laughable...corsair commander...still laughing. They just have pi$$ poor hysteresis. Up and down and up and down and up and down unless I set the min for 20C and max at 50C which is too wide and too high (even then it still cycled, just not as bad and on both). The aquaero is nice and smooth and my range is set 28-32C. General stuff like docs and surfing its silent. When adding load in gaming or rendering its a slow ramp as the liquid temp increases, usually doesn't pass 30C. Right now at 690 rpms.


----------



## JustinThyme

superguest said:


> @InfoSeeker
> Do you know where I can find a North American retailer that sells this product as shipping cost & import charges from Europe can get outrageous.











Aquacomputer Aquaero 6 PRO USB Fan-Controller, Grafik-LCD


The aquaero is an absolutely autonomous working microprocessor-controlled device with USB 2.0 interface. All speed parameters and sensor values can be set and visualized in an user-friendly menu or through an even easier to use PC-software. Additionally, the graphic LC display can be used to...




www.performance-pcs.com


----------



## superguest

JustinThyme said:


> Aquacomputer Aquaero 6 PRO USB Fan-Controller, Grafik-LCD
> 
> 
> The aquaero is an absolutely autonomous working microprocessor-controlled device with USB 2.0 interface. All speed parameters and sensor values can be set and visualized in an user-friendly menu or through an even easier to use PC-software. Additionally, the graphic LC display can be used to...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> www.performance-pcs.com


I have one. I got it used. It didn't come with the remote and I was wondering if I could actually get one separately?


----------



## JustinThyme

Maybe you can work something out with Infoseeker who had one in a plastic bag unused. Dazmode is probably the best source for Canada






Search results for: 'aquacomputer aquaremote for aquaero 5 and 6 0610ar010601on'


TITAN RIG specializes in quality PC Water Cooling and Air Cooling Components. FREE Shipping on order over $99 within the contiguous US. 30 Day Return Policy.




www.titanrig.com












Aquacomputer Aquaremote Infra Red Remote Aquaero 5/6


Keyboard, mouse and multi-meda keys: The Aquaero 5 operates your PC. With the Aquaremote (already included with the Aquaero 5 XT) you receive a fully implemented keyboard and mouse with multi-media keys in combination with an Aquaero 5 PRO or Aquaero 5 XT.




www.performance-pcs.com












Aquaremote Remote Controller for Aquaero 5 and 6 - DazMode


Remote keyboard and mouse for Aquaero 5 XT/Pro controller. By pressing one button on the remote control, you can switch between function levels.In aquaero mode, the aquaremote allows to comfortably configure your aquaero 5. Especially keying texts in is significantly more effective than using...



www.dazmode.com


----------



## InfoSeeker

superguest said:


> @InfoSeeker
> I understand that you enjoy using it, but Is it worth the money? Do you know where I can find a North American retailer that sells this product as shipping cost & import charges from Europe can get outrageous.


I misstated something, the intended point was that the remote is not useful except if you are running Linux and cannot run the aquasuite... to me it is NOT worth the money.

I can send you mine, just reimburse shipping... it's about a year old, but never been used.
Shipping to Canada would cost about $30.00, which I personally would not pay.


----------



## sultanofswing

I actually use my remote when I am laying down at night to control the volume on my PC, Not very often but it works pretty well.


----------



## WiLd FyeR

Looking to add some lighting to my case. Not sure which kit to get for the Aquaero 6XT or what type of connection it is called for the Aquaero.


----------



## InfoSeeker

WiLd FyeR said:


> Looking to add some lighting to my case. Not sure which kit to get for the Aquaero 6XT or what type of connection it is called for the Aquaero.


The aquaero is not involved in aRGB... it does not do that, it only drives a single LED.
If all you want to add is aRGB lighting, your best option is probably the farbwerk 360.
The farbwerk 360 can pull sensor data from the aquaero to drive your lighting scheme.


----------



## ChiTownButcher

On multi screen setups is there a way to change what screen the Aquasuite monitoring overlay goes to?


----------



## WiLd FyeR

InfoSeeker said:


> The aquaero is not involved in aRGB... it does not do that, it only drives a single LED.
> If all you want to add is aRGB lighting, your best option is probably the farbwerk 360.
> The farbwerk 360 can pull sensor data from the aquaero to drive your lighting scheme.


Thank you! I'm guessing Farbwerk will be detected by Aquasuite?


----------



## InfoSeeker

WiLd FyeR said:


> Thank you! I'm guessing Farbwerk will be detected by Aquasuite?


Yes, the farbwerk 360 will have its own tab in the aquasuite and look similar to the farberk in my system.


----------



## InfoSeeker

ChiTownButcher said:


> On multi screen setups is there a way to change what screen the Aquasuite monitoring overlay goes to?


If you have Windows, yes... I do not know about Linux, et al.

Windows & the aquasuite consider all monitors as a single canvas. If your main monitor is 2000x1000 pixels, and the 2nd monitor is 1000x800 pixels, the full canvas will be 3000x1000 pixels,with, I believe, upper left as 0,0.

In order to write to the 2nd monitor, use an 'x' greater than 2000.

You have to be careful with the second monitor as it is only 800 pixels tall. So depending on how you align them there are areas you could write to, that will not display on the monitor. For my setup I have the 2nd monitor to the right of the main monitor, mid to mid aligned. In this scenario there would be a strip above and below the 2nd monitor where I could write to, but it would be off-screen.


----------



## ChiTownButcher

InfoSeeker said:


> If you have Windows, yes... I do not know about Linux, et al.
> 
> Windows & the aquasuite consider all monitors as a single canvas. If your main monitor is 2000x1000 pixels, and the 2nd monitor is 1000x800 pixels, the full canvas will be 3000x1000 pixels,with, I believe, upper left as 0,0.
> 
> In order to write to the 2nd monitor, use an 'x' greater than 2000.
> 
> You have to be careful with the second monitor as it is only 800 pixels tall. So depending on how you align them there are areas you could write to, that will not display on the monitor. For my setup I have the 2nd monitor to the right of the main monitor, mid to mid aligned. In this scenario there would be a strip above and below the 2nd monitor where I could write to, but it would be off-screen.
> 
> View attachment 2480776
> View attachment 2480777
> View attachment 2480778


Ok, I got it. Shame there isn't just a "group offset" so that I don't need to figure them all out. But it's works


----------



## InfoSeeker

ChiTownButcher said:


> Ok, I got it. Shame there isn't just a "group offset" so that I don't need to figure them all out. But it's works


You can move multiple objects at once by clicking on an empty spot on the workspace, holding the click, and dragging the cursor so the objects you want to move are encompassed/selected, and release the click.

Unfortunately, the only way to move them is to click on the selection, hold the click, and drag/drop to the new location.

Long ago I requested that all selected objects be able to be shifted by an X/Y offset value, but that was never replied to.


----------



## ChiTownButcher

InfoSeeker said:


> You can move multiple objects at once by clicking on an empty spot on the workspace, holding the click, and dragging the cursor so the objects you want to move are encompassed/selected, and release the click.
> 
> Unfortunately, the only way to move them is to click on the selection, hold the click, and drag/drop to the new location.
> 
> Long ago I requested that all selected objects be able to be shifted by an X/Y offset value, but that was never replied to.


Agreed. Currently I am a tripple 27" but planning on going to the 49" G9, 27" G5 over it for Discord and other apps and a 10" 1080p below it for Aquasuite. An X/Y offset for a group would make it easier.


----------



## cobaltburrito

Anyone have any issues with plugging and mounting an Aquabus X4 to an Aquaero 6LT? 

It's almost like the female connector on the X4 is too short. The x4 ends up sitting pretty high, higher than the included spacers are tall. So when I go to mount with the screws everything is bent over.


----------



## Shawnb99

cobaltburrito said:


> Anyone have any issues with plugging and mounting an Aquabus X4 to an Aquaero 6LT?
> 
> It's almost like the female connector on the X4 is too short. The x4 ends up sitting pretty high, higher than the included spacers are tall. So when I go to mount with the screws everything is bent over.


I run mine via a 4pin fan cable due to those same issues. It was a major design fail on these.


----------



## hihotic

Can someone help me with this. I'm trying to change default images with custom one but it always turns out blank. Thanks.


----------



## cobaltburrito

Shawnb99 said:


> I run mine via a 4pin fan cable due to those same issues. It was a major design fail on these.


Ok, so it's known "issue". I like the idea of it mounting to the Aquaero. I've got some unthreaded spacer stock coming for my pump mounting...may see if I can just make some new spacers.


----------



## apw63

cobaltburrito said:


> Anyone have any issues with plugging and mounting an Aquabus X4 to an Aquaero 6LT?
> 
> It's almost like the female connector on the X4 is too short. The x4 ends up sitting pretty high, higher than the included spacers are tall. So when I go to mount with the screws everything is bent over.





Shawnb99 said:


> I run mine via a 4pin fan cable due to those same issues. It was a major design fail on these.


Mine mounted on with no issues at all. Don’t know about any know issue.


----------



## WiLd FyeR

Recently installed a temp sensor to my Aquaero 6LT. In AquaSuite, when I go to Temp Sensor page, it shows Fan Amplifier 1-4. Inserted the temp sensor in slot 1 so not sure which is which.


----------



## Shawnb99

WiLd FyeR said:


> Recently installed a temp sensor to my Aquaero 6LT. In AquaSuite, when I go to Temp Sensor page, it shows Fan Amplifier 1-4. Inserted the temp sensor in slot 1 so not sure which is which.


That's the temp of the fan controllers. The temp sensor should show up under sensors if I remember correctly.


----------



## Mxj1

Late to the party, but I've also get the x4 on my 6 lt with no issues.


----------



## Shawnb99

apw63 said:


> Mine mounted on with no issues at all. Don’t know about any know issue.
> View attachment 2482046



The issue isn't the X4 doesn't fit it's when using it in the 5.25" bay and using all 4 ports one of them would be very tight due to the side mounts. They actually redesigned the side mounts for this issue, though I don't see any difference. Hence the solution to that issue was connecting a fan cable to the port on the AQ and the other end to the X4 and placing it where you want. 
As you can see it's a very tight fit for one of those connectors


----------



## DaLiu

Hey guys, one question, I got my order from Aquacomputer and I have a question regarding the multiport top and the tube, seems like I can't insert the acrylic tube into the multiport, its seems too tight to go into the port, might be the o-ring but I feel like if i force it more I could brake something.


----------



## Section31

DaLiu said:


> Hey guys, one question, I got my order from Aquacomputer and I have a question regarding the multiport top and the tube, seems like I can't insert the acrylic tube into the multiport, its seems too tight to go into the port, might be the o-ring but I feel like if i force it more I could brake something.


Yes it takes lot of force to install it in. It goes on the inside part of the lid not the top where the g1/4 stop plugs etc go into.


----------



## DaLiu

Section31 said:


> Yes it takes lot of force to install it in. It goes on the inside part of the lid not the top where the g1/4 stop plugs etc go into.


In that case I have to try harder.


----------



## ChiTownButcher

Does anyone know if a more detailed technical drawing with dimensions exists of the High Flow Next? I have a spot I want to put it in but it's going to be tight enough that I am worried about it clearing other objects or the case itself.


----------



## rehsd

InfoSeeker said:


> I used to be a FanBoy of Aida64, way back when they started their widget. They were very responsive to user input then, but as time passed that diminished. Case in point, I, and others, asked they pick up data from the Corsair AXxxxxi digital PSU,s... their reply was "go pound sand". The same request was put to Martin, and shortly there after HWiNFO could pull sensor data from an AX1600i.


@InfoSeeker, are you using HWiNFO 7.0 with your AX1600i? I am unable to get HWiNFO 7.0 to consistently work with my AX1600i. Sometimes, the PSU shows up in HWiNFO, sometimes it doesn't. When it does show up, the sensor readings fail more often than they work. Readings from iCUE work well. Thanks!

Edit: I have also tested it with iCUE uninstalled -- same result.


----------



## InfoSeeker

rehsd said:


> @InfoSeeker, are you using HWiNFO 7.0 with your AX1600i? I am unable to get HWiNFO 7.0 to consistently work with my AX1600i. Sometimes, the PSU shows up in HWiNFO, sometimes it doesn't. When it does show up, the sensor readings fail more often than they work. Readings from iCUE work well. Thanks!
> 
> Edit: I have also tested it with iCUE uninstalled -- same result.


Yes, I am running HWiFO 7.xx now, and it performs as before.

There is a stability issue reading the AX1600i PSU, which stems from the fact that Corsair is using a non-standard method, and has not divulged this to Martin. Consequently the sensor readings drop not infrequently.

My monitoring interest is the "PSU Total Power", which is also unstable, but Martin has added a value labeled "PSU Total Power (est)" which is a calculated value very close to the Corsair value, sans stability issues.

For operation, the LINK4 driver must be installed, but the iQUE software should not be running (conflicts).

Sensor data:









Link4 driver & service running:


----------



## Leonko

@InfoSeeker is efficiency number correct number?  because in reviews they measured something from 94% to 96% in most "efficient" loads. So im just curious if that number is correct or also "bad" reading.


----------



## InfoSeeker

Leonko said:


> @InfoSeeker is efficiency number correct number?  because in reviews they measured something from 94% to 96% in most "efficient" loads. So im just curious if that number is correct or also "bad" reading.


You can see the values that were not sampled in the last pass as they are greyed out. The Efficiency value appears remarkably stable over time as I monitored the HWiNFO Sensor Panel. I did not see it drop once.

As to the validity, I assume it to be a calculation between Power-In & Power Out, so it should be fairly accurate. The efficiency is dependent on the load (typically 60% to 90% load yields greatest efficiency?) , and you can see the correlation between the Minimum/Maximum values displayed.


MinimumMaximumPower230 W854.5 WEfficiency42.8%99%


----------



## ManniX-ITA

InfoSeeker said:


> You can see the values that were not sampled in the last pass as they are greyed out. The Efficiency value appears remarkably stable over time as I monitored the HWiNFO Sensor Panel. I did not see it drop once.


Guess the internal monitoring is quite unreliable:









Corsair AXi Series 1600 W Review


Simply put, the Corsair AX1600i is the best PSU money can buy today. Because of its huge capacity and price tag, it only addresses a small portion of users; those only satisfied with having the best of the best.




www.techpowerup.com





Should be around 85-90% at 230W.


----------



## Leonko

InfoSeeker said:


> You can see the values that were not sampled in the last pass as they are greyed out. The Efficiency value appears remarkably stable over time as I monitored the HWiNFO Sensor Panel. I did not see it drop once.
> 
> As to the validity, I assume it to be a calculation between Power-In & Power Out, so it should be fairly accurate. The efficiency is dependent on the load (typically 60% to 90% load yields greatest efficiency?) , and you can see the correlation between the Minimum/Maximum values displayed.
> 
> 
> MinimumMaximumPower230 W854.5 WEfficiency42.8%99%


i saw that. but my eye got caught on current value, where it is 99% at 317W  so thats where i started to be curious  but on average you have aroung 90% after 11 hours. So it should be fine.


----------



## InfoSeeker

Leonko said:


> i saw that. but my eye got caught on current value, where it is 99% at 317W  so thats where i started to be curious  but on average you have aroung 90% after 11 hours. So it should be fine.


A large issue is sampling/polling rate. I just checked, and the default was set to 2000ms, which I just changed to 1000ms. The transient values between the samples may have values wildly different for the power and efficiency values. On top of which the samples may be at differing times and do not correlate precisely. If you want a sensible value for efficiency, I would suggest looking at the average. The time to average can also be set from full run time to some seconds.


----------



## InfoSeeker

ManniX-ITA said:


> Guess the internal monitoring is quite unreliable:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Corsair AXi Series 1600 W Review
> 
> 
> Simply put, the Corsair AX1600i is the best PSU money can buy today. Because of its huge capacity and price tag, it only addresses a small portion of users; those only satisfied with having the best of the best.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> www.techpowerup.com
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Should be around 85-90% at 230W.


Martin's COMMENT:


> Regarding the Corsair "PSU Efficiency", I agree with AIDA64 statement - the way this is calculated is not very sophisticated IMO and no one (except Corsair) knows how reliable that value is. The difference is only that HWiNFO does show it despite the doubtful meaning.


----------



## ManniX-ITA

Luckily at the time the AX1200i wasn't available so I picked an EVGA Supernova.
I'd be really pissed off with Corsair otherwise.
The efficiency is power output over power draw so either one or both gets highly unreliable under low load.
Which makes the killer feature of the PSU... not so much killer.


----------



## JustinThyme

ManniX-ITA said:


> Guess the internal monitoring is quite unreliable:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Corsair AXi Series 1600 W Review
> 
> 
> Simply put, the Corsair AX1600i is the best PSU money can buy today. Because of its huge capacity and price tag, it only addresses a small portion of users; those only satisfied with having the best of the best.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> www.techpowerup.com
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Should be around 85-90% at 230W.


Anything published by Techpowerup has zero, actually less than zero, when some of their publishing’s have been debunked or they post test results declaring one waterblock the winner of the king of the hill spot using average core temps then the biggest fail of all.....the win was by 0.10C which is well within any margin of error. Then find out they used a weak a$$ system to test it with with some lame excuse of this is all they had.

Either way Iike the AX1600I and I use Corsair IQue to plot the efficiency and power consumption. I’ve looked at graphing from HWinfo and IQue simultaneously and the outcomes don’t match up.
who is right? Efficiency is not a difficult computation. Efficiency=Pout/Pin I have the ability to verify both but what’s the point. In is simple enough but having to measure current on every single output is a major PITA, not that it can be done, just a PITA for nothing. Now someone wants to cough up the $$ for a detailed report then I’d go though the PITA, I get paid crap like this every day. Just usually on a much larger scale like facilities with multiple 13.5kV feeds and 50 MW (yes big M as in million) of generator and UPS power. Start with every PSU in every server and work my way back to the utility. Then go on 25x2MW cat gens and repeat. Difference is these places pay big $$ for their power quality analysis. Some things that are always missed by the rookies are to account for kVAR and PFC correction and/or any of this power that is being actively filtered by active harmonic filters and dissipated as heat.

In the end any power delivery system no matter what type has crap for efficiency under 25% load. The curve levels out around 50% and stays pretty flat through 90-95% then takes a dip for that last 5-10%. Real question is what is the peak efficiency at the 90-95% mark?


----------



## d0mmie

Hey guys, I have a technical question about the Quadro and Octo controllers/Aqua Suite software:

I currently have a Quadro controller and it's working great, I love it! But I'm wondering if it's possible to do a forced shutdown of my PC, if my water temperature reaches say 55C degrees as a safety measure? I can see in the Aqua Suite software it says "Alarm State checked" in the upper right corner on the screen, but what does that mean? Alarm state referring to what exactly, and in which circumstances?

I'd like this feature so my system can emergency shut down my PC, in case of a pump failure and the best indication would probably be the water temperature. Would I need to upgrade to Octo to get this kind of feature?


----------



## ceemic

I am interested on the same question. Tho where are Your sensor(s) located? If it is too far from (cpu) block it could not be enought to see that the cpu is on the fire already...


----------



## jvillaveces

Has anyone here used the Lian Li Unifans with a Farbwerk? Any tricks or tips?


----------



## Biggu

d0mmie said:


> Hey guys, I have a technical question about the Quadro and Octo controllers/Aqua Suite software:
> 
> I currently have a Quadro controller and it's working great, I love it! But I'm wondering if it's possible to do a forced shutdown of my PC, if my water temperature reaches say 55C degrees as a safety measure? I can see in the Aqua Suite software it says "Alarm State checked" in the upper right corner on the screen, but what does that mean? Alarm state referring to what exactly, and in which circumstances?
> 
> I'd like this feature so my system can emergency shut down my PC, in case of a pump failure and the best indication would probably be the water temperature. Would I need to upgrade to Octo to get this kind of feature?


I dont know about the Quadro but IIRC the 6LT and 6XT can do it as long as the USB is plugged in. Ill have to see if I can find the instructions for it.


----------



## d0mmie

ceemic said:


> I am interested on the same question. Tho where are Your sensor(s) located? If it is too far from (cpu) block it could not be enought to see that the cpu is on the fire already...


I use an analog sensor attached to the loop and connected with the Quadro, but CPU/GPU shouldn't be an issue as they would just downclock to keep it below TJmax, however the water temp should keep rising pretty fast if there's no flow. But in my case my CPU is actually air cooled, I'm only interested in water cooling the graphics card.



Biggu said:


> I dont know about the Quadro but IIRC the 6LT and 6XT can do it as long as the USB is plugged in. Ill have to see if I can find the instructions for it.


That's why I mentioned the Octa as I seem to recall it having that alarm feature at launch, but not the Quadro. I have a feeling that alarm state icon with the Quadro means nothing in reality, as I see nowhere to control it.


----------



## Biggu

I guess I assumed they use the same software so should be able? I havent looked at the octa though so I have no idea.


----------



## d0mmie

Sorry the name is Octo not Octa


----------



## JustinThyme

Need to wire in to to the mother board pwr header. I use the aquaero 6 pro that Connects RPMs to CPU fan header. That stop, PC shuts down. This can connect to a Kryos or OCTO





__





Connection cable alarm header of VISION/OCTO to motherboard power switch header


Connection cable alarm header of VISION/OCTO to motherboard power switch header: This cable can be used to connect the alarm header of an VISION series device with the power switch header of a computer motherboard. This allows for an emergency shutdown of the PC in case of an alarm condition...




shop.aquacomputer.de


----------



## InfoSeeker

d0mmie said:


> Hey guys, I have a technical question about the Quadro and Octo controllers/Aqua Suite software:
> 
> I currently have a Quadro controller and it's working great, I love it! But I'm wondering if it's possible to do a forced shutdown of my PC, if my water temperature reaches say 55C degrees as a safety measure? I can see in the Aqua Suite software it says "Alarm State checked" in the upper right corner on the screen, but what does that mean? Alarm state referring to what exactly, and in which circumstances?
> 
> I'd like this feature so my system can emergency shut down my PC, in case of a pump failure and the best indication would probably be the water temperature. Would I need to upgrade to Octo to get this kind of feature?


The QUADRO does not have a Signal port, but the OCTO does. Looking at the OCTO Manual, I see:


> 5.9. Connector “signal”
> The signal output can be connected to the power switch header of the mother-board using an additional specialized cable (53216, not included in delivery).
> Pin assignment:
> Pin 1: open drain max 3.3 V / 5 mA
> Pin 2: do not connect!
> Pin 3: open drain max 3.3 V / 5 mA


----------



## InfoSeeker

Anyone have an uninstalled aquacomputer "ULTITOP DUAL D5 pump cover for two D5 pumps"? I need a few measurements for planning, and it looks like I won't get my hands on one for 30 to 60 days. Thank You.








.


----------



## Leonko

try to ask AQ support, they are really kind and helpful


----------



## InfoSeeker

Leonko said:


> try to ask AQ support, they are really kind and helpful


Indeed they are, but they are also a bit swamped atm. If you look at their support page, they have a big ol' highlight on the following statement:


> *PLEASE NOTE:
> Due to a high volume of inquiries, it currently takes up to three weeks to respond to e-mails.*


So I thought I would try here first.


----------



## Leonko

... up to 3 weeks LOL.

I needed similar measurements with Bitspower D5 MOD Package. They have Skype online support during working hours, and they send me what i needed almost "instantly"  good old Bitspower ...


----------



## Shawnb99

Any idea how to clean these? Crappy dirty EK tubing left my hands dirty which then made these dirty. Bottom rubery part of the D5 Next


----------



## Barefooter

*Question: Why use the Aquabus port with D5 Next pump?*

I'm getting ready to replace a pair of D5 pumps with a pair of D5 Next pumps into an existing system that has an Aquaero 6. I plan to keep the USB cable connected at all times.

I have no plans to use the "Bus" port for RGBpx lights. Is there any reason or benefit to also connecting the "Bus" port to my Aquabus Hubby 7 and the Aquaero?


----------



## JustinThyme

They will need either USB connection to them or aquabus. Unless you just wanna use the buttons to control them when it’s much easier through the software. No matter how you connect them they get assigned an aquabus address. No need to have both. One or the other and USB is actually preferential as when firmware updates come out they have to be connected to USB to update. Mine needed updated right out of the box.


----------



## InfoSeeker

Barefooter said:


> *Question: Why use the Aquabus port with D5 Next pump?*
> 
> I'm getting ready to replace a pair of D5 pumps with a pair of D5 Next pumps into an existing system that has an Aquaero 6. I plan to keep the USB cable connected at all times.
> 
> I have no plans to use the "Bus" port for RGBpx lights. Is there any reason or benefit to also connecting the "Bus" port to my Aquabus Hubby 7 and the Aquaero?


I believe the aquabus port is useful if you are not running windows 8 or newer (e.g Linux), and you want to share info from the D5 NEXT with an aquaero.


----------



## Streetdragon

Is it possible to switch profiles from MSI Afterburner, while switching profiles in aquasuite?
Would be nice^^


----------



## Leonko

InfoSeeker said:


> I believe the aquabus port is useful if ...


so basically its useless  lets remember that one guy here defending AQ6, i dont remember his name, how he needs AQ6 because of aquabus, ...you dont need aquabus at all nowadays


----------



## Shawnb99

Leonko said:


> so basically its useless  lets remember that one guy here defending AQ6, i dont remember his name, how he needs AQ6 because of aquabus, ...you dont need aquabus at all nowadays


The use has never changed. It’s always been about controlling it and sharing info though the AQ6.


----------



## ManniX-ITA

Leonko said:


> so basically its useless  lets remember that one guy here defending AQ6, i dont remember his name, how he needs AQ6 because of aquabus, ...you dont need aquabus at all nowadays


It's a different way of controlling the Pump and the Fan connector, I don't think it's useless.
Depending on your setup you may find more useful/safer to have them as internal Aquaero ports instead being available via USB and run on its own.
If Aquasuite is not running in the background the AQ can't see and control the Pump and the Fan port via USB.


----------



## iCrap

So I updated my hwinfo64 to the latest version, and ever since I am not seeing it show up in the sensors tab anymore. None of my widgets are working. Any ideas? is there some setting i have to re enable?


----------



## iCrap

Posted the wrong pic and cant find the edit button anymore?... ok.
Some stuff is here but others are missing. I assume these are from aquacomputer services not HWMonitor. My UPS load is totally missing.


----------



## InfoSeeker

iCrap said:


> So I updated my hwinfo64 to the latest version, and ever since I am not seeing it show up in the sensors tab anymore. None of my widgets are working. Any ideas? is there some setting i have to re enable?
> 
> 
> Spoiler: snip
> 
> 
> 
> 
> View attachment 2483680


Yes, you have to select the 'Shared Memory Support" in the HWiNFO settings tab. It used to default active, but with new licensing it defaults to disabled.


----------



## iCrap

InfoSeeker said:


> Yes, you have to select the 'Shared Memory Support" in the HWiNFO settings tab. It used to default active, but with new licensing it defaults to disabled.


Im not seeing it, i checked every tab. i googled and its supposed to be under General


----------



## Leonko

this is correct. with new version released, shared memory support was set to disabled as default


----------



## iCrap

I still can't find the setting... but I also found this: IMPORTANT - IMPORTANT CHANGES TO HWiNFO64 COMING SOON

This means that it won't even work after 12 hours unless I pay?


----------



## iCrap

Oh I found it now, i was in the wrong general menu. (I still can't find the edit button on this forum anymore, have they removed it??)

Also, will the shared memory support quit working after 12 hours? Should I just downgrade to 6.42 and leave it at that point?


----------



## InfoSeeker

iCrap said:


> Oh I found it now, i was in the wrong general menu. (I still can't find the edit button on this forum anymore, have they removed it??)
> 
> Also, will the shared memory support quit working after 12 hours? Should I just downgrade to 6.42 and leave it at that point?


Click on the three vertical dots at the upper right of the post to edit.

No upgrades = no updates.
The initial purchase is $25, but renewals will be lower.
I upgraded because financing the effort yields the best results.


----------



## Asunder

Could someone help me out with some PWM connections or point me towards some learning resources? I have a general idea of what should be done thanks to Infoseeker, but when it comes to putting it together, there are some things that I'm not sure of. So the main idea is that I would like the radiator fans' rotation speed to be controlled according to the pump's internal temperature sensor.

For that purpose I have a Splitty9 Active to provide sata power to the PWM fans, but from this point I am not exactly sure how to route the cables: the fan splitter has a bunch of 4 pin connections, an input slot and an "RPM" label for the bottom row. The pump (aquastream ultimate is the model/make) has a 4pin fan slot, SATA power connector,USB and 3 pin for PWM/Flow/Bus each. The fans are Arctic P12s that can be either daisy-chained into one cable or connect separately.
How should the cable routing look like?

Could you tell me if this is the way to go?
Splitty9 Fan slot --> FAN slot on the pump, pump USB --> mainboard and now I'm not sure if I need to use the RPM slot on the fan splitter. Do I connect 2 of the 3 fans to the PWM slots and then the 3rd to the RPM slot? Then I don't know where that would go, the pump "RPM" slot only has 3 pins. I thought maybe it's mandatory to use one of the "RPM" slots on the splitter so that the RPM signal tells the pump to regulate all 3 fans at the same speed, but I'm not sure.

I really tried learning about this by going through topics/pages here and on hardwareluxx, but it's pretty confusing. I've also sent some emails, including AC support, but I assume they are either very busy with blocks or just tired of my multitude of questions 😢. 

Would I need a Quadro or an Aquaero for this to be possible? The problem with an aquaero would be that I don't really have proper space for it, the pump and the tubing alone take up massive amounts of space on an already huge case that I had to mod...

I've attached some photos in the hopes of them making the post less confusing.


----------



## Shawnb99

The RPM slot is the one the splitter uses to regulate the fans. Connect all your fans you want on one channel to the Splitty with at least 1 fan connected to the RPM slot, then you can connect that to the fan header on either the pump or MB.

Some more info on the pump can be found here

*








Aquacomputer Aquastream Ultimate Questions


Hey everyone, Ever since I got my Aquaero 5 LT Ive been itching to get more AC gear to plug into it. Anyway, I have a few quick questions regarding this pump. Im going to copy @Shoggy hoping he'll see it. Its just all-around awesome Here are my questions/concerns 1) Does the Inlet need to be...




www.overclock.net




*


----------



## Asunder

Shawnb99 said:


> The RPM slot is the one the splitter uses to regulate the fans. Connect all your fans you want on one channel to the Splitty with at least 1 fan connected to the RPM slot, then you can connect that to the fan header on either the pump or MB.
> 
> Some more info on the pump can be found here
> 
> *
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Aquacomputer Aquastream Ultimate Questions
> 
> 
> Hey everyone, Ever since I got my Aquaero 5 LT Ive been itching to get more AC gear to plug into it. Anyway, I have a few quick questions regarding this pump. Im going to copy @Shoggy hoping he'll see it. Its just all-around awesome Here are my questions/concerns 1) Does the Inlet need to be...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> www.overclock.net
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *


Was wondering in case I would add more than 4 fans, does each one of the two RPM ports basically mean you can only send 2 unified rotation values, i.e. one rpm value per column? Is this what I would assume the difference between a splitter like this and a "smarter" interface like Aquaero (where I guess you have an rpm channel per port?)? 

More importantly, thank you very much for the reply! I'm currently trying to figure out where to have the splitter (kinda goes to show how inefficient even supposedly "E-ATX" cases can be in terms of space), so this really helped me work on the build. I've checked out the thread, I wish there would be more like that as I find it extremely useful for trying to get into AC's stuff, they do offer manuals but they are way too sparing with the details.


----------



## Shawnb99

The RPM ports on the pump serve a different purpose, not to sure about them. 

As for the fans you can daisy chain them however you want. IE use the connectors on the Artic fans to connect as many as you want together and then connect the chain to the spitty9. Just be aware to stay under the max amount the fan header on either your pump or MB can handle


----------



## Asunder

I would assume the power limit for the fans doesn't matter on the other parts if the Splitty9 Active has SATA power, right? Iirc that's about 54W on the PCI slot on the PSU so I reckon it has enough power for most fans. 
But I'm a bit confused as to how those 2 RPM slots work, can I have 2 different fan speeds being sent out if there are 2 RPM 4-pin connections on the Splitty?


----------



## JustinThyme

Leonko said:


> so basically its useless  lets remember that one guy here defending AQ6, i dont remember his name, how he needs AQ6 because of aquabus, ...you dont need aquabus at all nowadays


That Guy was probably me and yes its about getting all the data into one controller instead of spread out over several different controllers. I use the AQ6 Pro and D5 next and a quadro and an octo and a high flow next and a pair of digi cal tmep sensors. Also about uing the Aq6 to control all of them. I need to update this to include my other D5 pumps as well as two other that will be on the Aq6 this flow shows 3, I will update it when I have all 5 in the loop.

This stays on my desktop.








Or I can pull up the aquasuite and switch through all of them. I prefer everything in one place. Keep in mind I started with the Aq6 and the rest was non existent. Too much of a hassle. Id rather the app be running in the background and see everything I need and all of it working together.


----------



## Leonko

thats like the worst excuse ever. its like i have to find something to defend using AQ6, but i cant find nothing, so ill come up with the most stupid reason ever 

... you would not even notice with your aquasuite launched, if you are runniing your PC connected viac USB or aquabus.


----------



## NE0XY

I just did a full rebuild for my 3080 and distroplate and I'm having an issue with 4 of my fans. 
They're Corsair LL 140s connected to an Phobya 4Pin PWM to 8x 4Pin Fan Splitter PCB before they're connected to the Aquaero. The issue is that they're always going full speed. Am I missing something in my setup? All other pwm fans in the system are working through similar (different variants of splitters) setups.

In the Aquasuite Fan settings I have it on PWM contolled, Min rpm 600, max rpm 1300

Thanks


----------



## JustinThyme

Leonko said:


> thats like the worst excuse ever. its like i have to find something to defend using AQ6, but i cant find nothing, so ill come up with the most stupid reason ever
> 
> ... you would not even notice with your aquasuite launched, if you are runniing your PC connected viac USB or aquabus.


Worst excuse ever is putting out misinformation because you don’t want to run the full aquaero capabilities and would rather watch the game from the cheap seats. That’s your choice which puts you one step from a Corsair commander. It’s OK to not like how someone else goes about doing things and how they choose to run their rigs and monitoring. It’s another story when you cross the line into being flat out disrespectful.
So I’ll leave it at I don’t like the way you do things.


----------



## JustinThyme

NE0XY said:


> I just did a full rebuild for my 3080 and distroplate and I'm having an issue with 4 of my fans.
> They're Corsair LL 140s connected to an Phobya 4Pin PWM to 8x 4Pin Fan Splitter PCB before they're connected to the Aquaero. The issue is that they're always going full speed. Am I missing something in my setup? All other pwm fans in the system are working through similar (different variants of splitters) setups.
> 
> In the Aquasuite Fan settings I have it on PWM contolled, Min rpm 600, max rpm 1300
> 
> Thanks


For some reason the PWM controllers on one brand of fan won’t work with a splitter that another will. I had everything splitting off on silver stone splitters and everyone was happy. I go over to Noctua industrial 2000 rpm fans on two rads and same thing. Wide open. Put them on a splitty instead and now they work just fine. The other fans work on the splitty as well as the silver stone. Be it QL or LL or just SP120s and 140s.


----------



## Shawnb99

NE0XY said:


> I just did a full rebuild for my 3080 and distroplate and I'm having an issue with 4 of my fans.
> They're Corsair LL 140s connected to an Phobya 4Pin PWM to 8x 4Pin Fan Splitter PCB before they're connected to the Aquaero. The issue is that they're always going full speed. Am I missing something in my setup? All other pwm fans in the system are working through similar (different variants of splitters) setups.
> 
> In the Aquasuite Fan settings I have it on PWM contolled, Min rpm 600, max rpm 1300
> 
> Thanks


It’s a PWM issues with the fans. Noctua’s had the same issue till they “fixed” the issue.
Try using a Splitty9 Active the PWM signal amplification is said to address this specific issue.”The amplification of the PWM signal prevents the PWM fans from interfering with the PWM signal of the fan output, which could otherwise no longer be controlled”


----------



## NE0XY

JustinThyme said:


> For some reason the PWM controllers on one brand of fan won’t work with a splitter that another will. I had everything splitting off on silver stone splitters and everyone was happy. I go over to Noctua industrial 2000 rpm fans on two rads and same thing. Wide open. Put them on a splitty instead and now they work just fine. The other fans work on the splitty as well as the silver stone. Be it QL or LL or just SP120s and 140s.





Shawnb99 said:


> It’s a PWM issues with the fans. Noctua’s had the same issue till they “fixed” the issue.
> Try using a Splitty9 Active the PWM signal amplification is said to address this specific issue.”The amplification of the PWM signal prevents the PWM fans from interfering with the PWM signal of the fan output, which could otherwise no longer be controlled”


Thanks for the replies, 

I've ordered one more of those splitters that actually worked: an EK one . I'm using this one for 3 LL120's, so should work for the LL140. If that don't work I'll get the splitty9. Thanks


----------



## JustinThyme

NE0XY said:


> Thanks for the replies,
> 
> I've ordered one more of those splitters that actually worked: an EK one . I'm using this one for 3 LL120's, so should work for the LL140. If that don't work I'll get the splitty9. Thanks


Just dont use the same one on the different fans. Thats one of the biggest mistakes. The controller will default to the lower speed of the larger fans. One would think they would all work for all PWM fans but the controller is only 1/3 of the equation. One is the controller, Second is the hub and 3rd is the actual PWM circuit in the fan, I didnt get it and sacrificed two fans to see *** was in there. Its not at all complex BUT difference in the components used can make it or break it. Pulse Width Modulation is a fairly simple concept. The voltage and frequency is a constant. The only thing that changes is the duty cycle being how wide the pulse are. The faster the fans run the wider (longer duration) the pulses are and the inverse for slower speed. The pulses are always the same frequency and distance apart when looking at it on an Oscope. What changes is if its a low speed you have more of small short spikes, as speed increases the spike gets wider and becomes more of a pronounced square wave. Essentially you are turning it on and off. Higher speed its just on longer.

Fan circuit


----------



## NE0XY

JustinThyme said:


> Spoiler
> 
> 
> 
> Just dont use the same one on the different fans. Thats one of the biggest mistakes. The controller will default to the lower speed of the larger fans. One would think they would all work for all PWM fans but the controller is only 1/3 of the equation. One is the controller, Second is the hub and 3rd is the actual PWM circuit in the fan, I didnt get it and sacrificed two fans to see *** was in there. Its not at all complex BUT difference in the components used can make it or break it. Pulse Width Modulation is a fairly simple concept. The voltage and frequency is a constant. The only thing that changes is the duty cycle being how wide the pulse are. The faster the fans run the wider (longer duration) the pulses are and the inverse for slower speed. The pulses are always the same frequency and distance apart when looking at it on an Oscope. What changes is if its a low speed you have more of small short spikes, as speed increases the spike gets wider and becomes more of a pronounced square wave. Essentially you are turning it on and off. Higher speed its just on longer.
> 
> Fan circuit
> 
> 
> View attachment 2484270


So you're saying I can't use the same kind of splitter for the second set of fans? Even if they're connected to different ports on the aquaero? Or did I misunderstand
So two of the same splitter, but for two sets of fans - to two different ports


----------



## InfoSeeker

NE0XY said:


> So you're saying I can't use the same kind of splitter for the second set of fans? Even if they're connected to different ports on the aquaero? Or did I misunderstand
> So two of the same splitter, but for two sets of fans - to two different ports


I think what was meant is don't use different types of fans on a splitter.

I am not sure what is meant with 'default to the slower speed of the larger fans', because the controller will respond to the RPM signal from whichever fan is on the splitter port marked 'RPM'.


----------



## NE0XY

InfoSeeker said:


> I think what was meant is don't use different types of fans on a splitter.
> 
> I am not sure what is meant with 'default to the slower speed of the larger fans', because the controller will respond to the RPM signal from whichever fan is on the splitter port marked 'RPM'.


Perfect, thanks. Wasn't planning to =)


----------



## Swiso

Hello,
just bought the aquaero 6XT.
Would like to ask if anybody could suggest a suitable 5.25 single bay enclosure where I can fit the aquaero.
I tried with this one but it's too small. SilverStone SDP10 INTRODUCTION
The case is a Phanteks Elite...it come with the dual bay you see in the picture, but I cannot use it because on the place where it is supposed to be placed (top right on the side) I have a radiator...
Any suggestion ?
Thanks !


----------



## JustinThyme

InfoSeeker said:


> I think what was meant is don't use different types of fans on a splitter.
> 
> I am not sure what is meant with 'default to the slower speed of the larger fans', because the controller will respond to the RPM signal from whichever fan is on the splitter port marked 'RPM'.


Yes, exactly. Sorry if I wasn't clear. You can use whatever splitter works with your group of fans but don't mix different fans on the same splitter. Example you have 16 fans. half of them are 140 and the other half are 120s. Most of the 140s max rpms are lower than the 120s. So put 8 120s on one splitter and 8 140s on the other. There are exceptions like the Noctuas industrial where you have 2000 rpm fans and 3000 rpm fans in both 120 and 140 and seeing how they have the same speed ratings it doesn't matter. You can put 120 and 140 2000 rpm fans on one splitter and 120 and 140 3000 rpm fans on another splitter. 

Bottom line is pwm fans and splitters can be a PITA if you have too many different fans. Even brands will come into play as every 120 or 140 are not the same. Hope I didn't just make it more confusing. In that case just leave your case open and get one of these.



https://www.amazon.com/MaxxAir-BF36BD-RED-Velocity-36-Inches/dp/B00265KYEY/ref=sr_1_10?dchild=1&keywords=Large+Industrial+Fan&qid=1617075219&refinements=p_n_feature_keywords_five_browse-bin%3A7899360011%2Cp_n_feature_browse-bin%3A2245211011&rnid=2245209011&s=home-garden&sr=1-10


----------



## NE0XY

For some random reason, before I've even gotten my order of new splitter, the fans suddenly work in Aquasuite. I've changed nothing in the software over the last days, but now suddenly when I was starting up the computer they went down from max (where they've been stuck) to lowest speed. Weird, but I'm pleased =)

Edit: I've also installed a Aquacomputer Flowsensor 'high flow' for the first time, what's a decent flow rate? And anything I should change in the flow settings in Aquasuite to calibrate it?


----------



## sultanofswing

NE0XY said:


> For some random reason, before I've even gotten my order of new splitter, the fans suddenly work in Aquasuite. I've changed nothing in the software over the last days, but now suddenly when I was starting up the computer they went down from max (where they've been stuck) to lowest speed. Weird, but I'm pleased =)
> 
> Edit: I've also installed a Aquacomputer Flowsensor 'high flow' for the first time, what's a decent flow rate? And anything I should change in the flow settings in Aquasuite to calibrate it?


No need to mess with the settings on the High Flow sensor, Flow rate is personal preference, I have my setup so it maintains a minimum of 227 lph(1gpm).


----------



## Shawnb99

NE0XY said:


> Edit: I've also installed a Aquacomputer Flowsensor 'high flow' for the first time, what's a decent flow rate? And anything I should change in the flow settings in Aquasuite to calibrate it?


Minimum is 0.5GPM and ideally you want 1GPM.
You’ll see little improvement past that up to around 3GPM


----------



## InfoSeeker

NE0XY said:


> For some random reason, before I've even gotten my order of new splitter, the fans suddenly work in Aquasuite. I've changed nothing in the software over the last days, but now suddenly when I was starting up the computer they went down from max (where they've been stuck) to lowest speed. Weird, but I'm pleased =)
> 
> Edit: I've also installed a Aquacomputer Flowsensor 'high flow' for the first time, what's a decent flow rate? And anything I should change in the flow settings in Aquasuite to calibrate it?


Just to muddy the pot a bit, for me ≈100 l/h is minimum, but actual flow rate is less important than monitoring the rate over time. If the flow rate reduces, it is an indication of blockage and time to clean.


----------



## NE0XY

Shawnb99 said:


> Minimum is 0.5GPM and ideally you want 1GPM.
> You’ll see little improvement past that up to around 3GPM





InfoSeeker said:


> Just to muddy the pot a bit, for me ≈100 l/h is minimum, but actual flow rate is less important than monitoring the rate over time. If the flow rate reduces, it is an indication of blockage and time to clean.


Oh wow, those are way higher than I've normally ran.
I think my pumps may be old and damaged or something, because after 35% power they get too loud for comfort. 30% power on two D5 gives me about 70 l/h

Edit: had them since 2013


----------



## InfoSeeker

EDIT: I had an error in my test here... I believe the reason the EK top flat-lined at 30% power (5.7 lpm) is the QD on the inlet side was not fully tight. As the vacuum built with flow rate, the unit started pulling air from the QD and flat-lined.

Just received my Ultitop Dual D5 yesterday and decided to do a comparison to an (eol) EK-D5 Dual Top I have been using for several years. The test rig is a single 360 radiator with a small reservoir and a High Flow NEXT. Pictures of both test setups below. The only difference between the two rigs is the tops, I used the same pumps (AQ pwm D5s) for both rigs. Immediately below is a chart showing the results, with data tables below that. The EK started slightly higher, but flat-lined at 30% power.











EK-D5 Dual TOP (EOL)5%10%15%20%30%40%50%65%80%100%RPM Pump 12115237525802803319935313815419144844827RPM Pump 22112237325772801319735273811418744814823Flow l/m3.704.194.584.955.595.425.485.495.335.29


AQ ULTITOP DUAL D55%10%15%20%30%40%50%65%80%100%RPM Pump 12097235925982818320635293817418444904744RPM Pump 22094235625952815320335273814418144874789Flow l/m3.073.473.864.224.815.315.766.376.857.26


EK test rig​AQ test rig​



















Spoiler: Test Data


----------



## jura11

NE0XY said:


> Oh wow, those are way higher than I've normally ran.
> I think my pumps may be old and damaged or something, because after 35% power they get too loud for comfort. 30% power on two D5 gives me about 70 l/h
> 
> Edit: had them since 2013


How many radiators do you have and how many block and what radiators do you have, some blocks can be restrictive and same applies for radiators too and did you clean radiators and blocks etc? 

Flow rate at 70LPH, I think I have experienced that too with single D5 when I run 4*GPUs setup with 4*360mm radiators plus MO-ra3 360mm too, that time I tried single pump just for testing of flow rate

With single D5 and dual DDC 18W and 4*360mm radiators plus MO-ra3 360mm and 4*GPUs setup my flow rate has been in 120-145LPH as max,then replaced dual DDC pumps for triple D5 pumps and flow rate has been in 213LPH and lately I went with dual RTX 3090 GamingPro's with Bykski waterblocks and 3900X with Aquacomputer Kryos Next and flow rate now is in 220-225LPH 

Did you tried run pumps at max RPM if flow rate improves? 

And regarding the fan splitter I highly recommend get Aquacomputer Splitty9, running them multiple on my loop with Aquacomputer Aquaero 6XT and they're best 

If your fans has run on max speed and you couldn't control them, assuming you hit probably overcurrent protection on one of the PWM header? 

Hope this helps 

Thanks, Jura


----------



## NE0XY

jura11 said:


> Spoiler
> 
> 
> 
> How many radiators do you have and how many block and what radiators do you have, some blocks can be restrictive and same applies for radiators too and did you clean radiators and blocks etc?
> 
> Flow rate at 70LPH, I think I have experienced that too with single D5 when I run 4*GPUs setup with 4*360mm radiators plus MO-ra3 360mm too, that time I tried single pump just for testing of flow rate
> 
> With single D5 and dual DDC 18W and 4*360mm radiators plus MO-ra3 360mm and 4*GPUs setup my flow rate has been in 120-145LPH as max,then replaced dual DDC pumps for triple D5 pumps and flow rate has been in 213LPH and lately I went with dual RTX 3090 GamingPro's with Bykski waterblocks and 3900X with Aquacomputer Kryos Next and flow rate now is in 220-225LPH
> 
> Did you tried run pumps at max RPM if flow rate improves?
> 
> And regarding the fan splitter I highly recommend get Aquacomputer Splitty9, running them multiple on my loop with Aquacomputer Aquaero 6XT and they're best
> 
> If your fans has run on max speed and you couldn't control them, assuming you hit probably overcurrent protection on one of the PWM header?
> 
> Hope this helps
> 
> Thanks, Jura


 Yeah I do have a lot of stuff that adds restriction. I have 3x480 rad, one 560 rad, gpu block, cpu block, two HDD blocks, flow meter and distroplate  
There's also some air left in the system if that makes a difference. 

On max RPM I get about 180l/h 

And the fans are controllable now, must have been the software bugging out when I changed from power controlled to pwm and after a couple of reboots it must have sorted itself out or something. They seem fine now

but I might get a splitty next time I do an upgrade, probably then Alder lake arrives


----------



## JustinThyme

InfoSeeker said:


> Just to muddy the pot a bit, for me ≈100 l/h is minimum, but actual flow rate is less important than monitoring the rate over time. If the flow rate reduces, it is an indication of blockage and time to clean.


You put mud in your loop? LOL

I run 3 D5s ATM but about to be 5 as soon as I finish up getting the MORA3- 420 in the loop. Rad and fans and hoses with quick connects on the ends as well as the PCIE pass through. Just havent have the time to reconfigure inside yet. Currently have a GTR 420 in the roof, 480XE in the basement, 360GTS amidships and 360SE in the front. The 420 is getting moved to the bottom and there will be just 3x 140MM QL fans up top probably as intake to blow down onto my VRMs. 360gts getting moved to the front and the other 360 getting yanked so two rads left in the case. Ill put the divider between the basement and top back in and have two 140s front and back exhausting the basement. Putting GPUs back to horizontal. They are pretty vertical but it blocks all my PCIE ports and access to the switches on the bottom of my R6EE. So a good bit of work to do there replumbing everything.

The D5 Next at the bottom of the res runs 100% that feeds the inlet to a bitspower dual serial head with primochill enhanced pumps with first at 90% and second at 85% (noise cancellation). Drop D5s much lower and the flow drops a good bit. 60% is about as low as you can go on a D5 as it doesn't matter what you set the PWM at its not going any slower in rpms. With what I have in there now and a Optimus block on the CPU (high restriction so Magnitude will go back in) and two Heatkiller blocks on a pair of 2080Tis and an inline filter along with the fittings I'm getting 325L/hr. Im adding the two on the MORA because its not exactly a baby rad and Ill tune those pumps as necessary. The EK CPU block tested better than the Optimus at lower flow rate, substantially. Personally I pump the crap out of a system to get max pressure at the jet plates. 500L/Hr or 3G/M (general neighborhood) is about as far as Ill go with it.

But yeah watching your flow rate trend is important. I Put in an Optimus SigV2 with electroless nickel plating guaranteed to not flake......It flaked. Im just happy I use an inline filter as that where it all ended up. Flow rate cut in half. First I thought I had a failed pump but removing power from them one at a time made it drop even more. The inline filter I had at the time required a loop drain so that sucks but the crap that was in the filter was unreal. The only thing that had changed was adding the Optimus block. Pulled it seeing how my loop was already drained and sure as sheet the nickel plating on the micofins was all but gone and in my filter. Contacted them and got a story about how some slipped past QC and they sent me a new cold plate. So all is good. Just a PITA to have to go through all that from a plating process thats been pumped to the end of the earth as being slicker than snot on a door knob. Well it might be slicker than snot, thats why it didnt stick. So I recommend inline filters. That crap is going to end up somewhere and better in the filter than in a block that you end up having to remove and new thermal pads and TIM and worry about gaskets etc. Im using the watercool filter now that has valves built in so you can isolate it. Cheaper than buying two valves and still having to unscrew the inline filter I already had. This one just close the valves and get a small catcher as a little liquid is still coming out but just whats in the filter. Then clean the filer out or replace it, comes with two replacements but I dont see the need for replacing if its dirty. Just clean it out and put it back in, open the valves and you might get a few air bubbles but beats the hell out of draining the loop and worse yet having to pull and clean a block. Some argue they pose too much of a restriction. Well I argue if a clean metal screen drops you by that much you need pump/s with some more a$$. Id never had to clean it before that episode but after I was sure happy I had it installed.


----------



## InfoSeeker

JustinThyme said:


> You put mud in your loop? LOL
> 
> 
> Spoiler: gibberish
> 
> 
> 
> I run 3 D5s ATM but about to be 5 as soon as I finish up getting the MORA3- 420 in the loop. Rad and fans and hoses with quick connects on the ends as well as the PCIE pass through. Just havent have the time to reconfigure inside yet. Currently have a GTR 420 in the roof, 480XE in the basement, 360GTS amidships and 360SE in the front. The 420 is getting moved to the bottom and there will be just 3x 140MM QL fans up top probably as intake to blow down onto my VRMs. 360gts getting moved to the front and the other 360 getting yanked so two rads left in the case. Ill put the divider between the basement and top back in and have two 140s front and back exhausting the basement. Putting GPUs back to horizontal. They are pretty vertical but it blocks all my PCIE ports and access to the switches on the bottom of my R6EE. So a good bit of work to do there replumbing everything.
> 
> The D5 Next at the bottom of the res runs 100% that feeds the inlet to a bitspower dual serial head with primochill enhanced pumps with first at 90% and second at 85% (noise cancellation). Drop D5s much lower and the flow drops a good bit. 60% is about as low as you can go on a D5 as it doesn't matter what you set the PWM at its not going any slower in rpms. With what I have in there now and a Optimus block on the CPU (high restriction so Magnitude will go back in) and two Heatkiller blocks on a pair of 2080Tis and an inline filter along with the fittings I'm getting 325L/hr. Im adding the two on the MORA because its not exactly a baby rad and Ill tune those pumps as necessary. The EK CPU block tested better than the Optimus at lower flow rate, substantially. Personally I pump the crap out of a system to get max pressure at the jet plates. 500L/Hr or 3G/M (general neighborhood) is about as far as Ill go with it.
> 
> But yeah watching your flow rate trend is important. I Put in an Optimus SigV2 with electroless nickel plating guaranteed to not flake......It flaked. Im just happy I use an inline filter as that where it all ended up. Flow rate cut in half. First I thought I had a failed pump but removing power from them one at a time made it drop even more. The inline filter I had at the time required a loop drain so that sucks but the crap that was in the filter was unreal. The only thing that had changed was adding the Optimus block. Pulled it seeing how my loop was already drained and sure as sheet the nickel plating on the micofins was all but gone and in my filter. Contacted them and got a story about how some slipped past QC and they sent me a new cold plate. So all is good. Just a PITA to have to go through all that from a plating process thats been pumped to the end of the earth as being slicker than snot on a door knob. Well it might be slicker than snot, thats why it didnt stick. So I recommend inline filters. That crap is going to end up somewhere and better in the filter than in a block that you end up having to remove and new thermal pads and TIM and worry about gaskets etc. Im using the watercool filter now that has valves built in so you can isolate it. Cheaper than buying two valves and still having to unscrew the inline filter I already had. This one just close the valves and get a small catcher as a little liquid is still coming out but just whats in the filter. Then clean the filer out or replace it, comes with two replacements but I dont see the need for replacing if its dirty. Just clean it out and put it back in, open the valves and you might get a few air bubbles but beats the hell out of draining the loop and worse yet having to pull and clean a block. Some argue they pose too much of a restriction. Well I argue if a clean metal screen drops you by that much you need pump/s with some more a$$. Id never had to clean it before that episode but after I was sure happy I had it installed.


No, I use Double Protect Ultra, unless I am doing a quick test/evaluation, then I use distilled sans additives.


----------



## Shawnb99

Thanks for the pump top comparison. Now if I could only find a Ultitop Dual D5 from somewhere other then Aquatuning or AC where it's %60 just to ship


----------



## Bartdude

@InfoSeeker I'd be interested to see that comparison with the newer EK top Duel D5 Revo


----------



## InfoSeeker

Bartdude said:


> @InfoSeeker I'd be interested to see that comparison with the newer EK top Duel D5 Revo


That would be a good comparison, but I do not have a Revo, so I can't do one at this time.


----------



## Barefooter

InfoSeeker said:


> Just received my Ultitop Dual D5 yesterday and decided to do a comparison to an (eol) EK-D5 Dual Top I have been using for several years. The test rig is a single 360 radiator with a small reservoir and a High Flow NEXT. Pictures of both test setups below. The only difference between the two rigs is the tops, I used the same pumps (AQ pwm D5s) for both rigs. Immediately below is a chart showing the results, with data tables below that. The EK started slightly higher, but flat-lined at 30% power.
> 
> View attachment 2484492
> 
> 
> 
> EK-D5 Dual TOP (EOL)5%10%15%20%30%40%50%65%80%100%RPM Pump 12115237525802803319935313815419144844827RPM Pump 22112237325772801319735273811418744814823Flow l/m3.704.194.584.955.595.425.485.495.335.29
> 
> 
> AQ ULTITOP DUAL D55%10%15%20%30%40%50%65%80%100%RPM Pump 12097235925982818320635293817418444904744RPM Pump 22094235625952815320335273814418144874789Flow l/m3.073.473.864.224.815.315.766.376.857.26
> 
> 
> EK test rig​AQ test rig​
> View attachment 2484494
> 
> View attachment 2484495
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Test Data
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> View attachment 2484496
> View attachment 2484497
> 
> View attachment 2484498
> View attachment 2484499
> 
> View attachment 2484500
> View attachment 2484501
> 
> View attachment 2484503
> View attachment 2484504
> 
> View attachment 2484506
> View attachment 2484507
> 
> View attachment 2484509
> View attachment 2484510
> 
> View attachment 2484513
> View attachment 2484514
> 
> View attachment 2484515
> View attachment 2484516
> 
> View attachment 2484518
> View attachment 2484519
> 
> View attachment 2484521
> View attachment 2484522


Awesome work here InfoSeeker! Rep for your hard work.

That is quite a difference if you are running your pumps maxed out.


----------



## JustinThyme

Never bothered doing a comparison with EK VS bitspower as in a write up. All I know it’s the bitspower is in my machine and the EK went in the trash. Massive difference. I’ll let you know how the Watercool dual pump head stacks up soon installed in my loop with some pressure to overcome.


----------



## InfoSeeker

Barefooter said:


> Awesome work here InfoSeeker! Rep for your hard work.
> 
> That is quite a difference if you are running your pumps maxed out.


Yes, but it may be somewhat a 'hidden' issue.

The EK hit about 5.5 lpm at 30% on this limited test loop, and simply would push no more. But in a normal loop one may never hit 5.5 lpm, and the pump's upper reaches may have an impact. Not being a hydraulic engineer, I really don't know.


----------



## sultanofswing

I have the newer style EK dual pump thingy majigger, with 3 D5 pumps(singularity res feeding dual pumps), 6 360mm radiators, a 480mm radiator, cpu/gpu block and 4 QD4 Quick disconnects I get around 380lph pumps full bore. At 70% speed it's 240ish lph.
Can post up tonight when I get home from work.
This is flow rate from my AQ high flow sensor so I know it's pretty accurate.

Sent from my OnePlus 7 Pro using Tapatalk


----------



## d0mmie

Anyone know if using PWM hubs on Quadro/Octo could potentially cause problems, like damaging the controller? I'm thinking of connecting my Fractal Design Nexus+ 2 PWM Hub to my Octo since it can control my 6 x 3-pin fans by having just one PWM fan connected to the hub. From my understanding the SATA power needed for the Nexus+ 2 hub is only for the 3-pin fans, and the 3 x PWM fans on the hub get their power directly from the motherboard/controller (it has all four cables attached and not just two as typical hubs have)


----------



## Shawnb99

d0mmie said:


> Anyone know if using PWM hubs on Quadro/Octo could potentially cause problems, like damaging the controller? I'm thinking of connecting my Fractal Design Nexus+ 2 PWM Hub to my Octo since it can control my 6 x 3-pin fans by having just one PWM fan connected to the hub. From my understanding the SATA power needed for the Nexus+ 2 hub is only for the 3-pin fans, and the 3 x PWM fans on the hub get their power directly from the motherboard/controller (it has all four cables attached and not just two as typical hubs have)


They shouldn’t. Both have over voltage protection so should shut off if drawing to much power.
I’m using 10 spliity9’s with a pair of Quadro’s atm no issues


----------



## d0mmie

Shawnb99 said:


> They shouldn’t. Both have over voltage protection so should shut off if drawing to much power.
> I’m using 10 spliity9’s with a pair of Quadro’s atm no issues


10 x Splitty9? What are you running, a nuclear power plant in your garage?


----------



## Shawnb99

d0mmie said:


> 10 x Splitty9? What are you running, a nuclear power plant in your garage?


7 radiators in push/pull for a total of 65 fans


----------



## ceemic

Is it possible to change the graph time window longer than 60 minutes for the values on overview page in aquasuite?


----------



## JustinThyme

Shawnb99 said:


> 7 radiators in push/pull for a total of 65 fans


Cheese and rice man! Thought I was bad. I had 22 but ditched all the push pull. Yeah the splitters are good so long as you don’t overload the power of the splitter. I use the splitty now, used powered hubs until the Noctua 2000 rpm industrial fans didn’t like them. They ran full speed on several different powered hubs. Put 9 on a splitty 9 and no problems. 1.68 amps max for all 9 fans. Octo has Max of 25 watts/channel or 100 watts combined. Noctua industrial are 2.16 watts each Max so you can run 46 of them on an octo and fill up a splitty 9 no problems on all 8 channels.


----------



## Shawnb99

JustinThyme said:


> Cheese and rice man! Thought I was bad. I had 22 but ditched all the push pull. Yeah the splitters are good so long as you don’t overload the power of the splitter. I use the splitty now, used powered hubs until the Noctua 2000 rpm industrial fans didn’t like them. They ran full speed on several different powered hubs. Put 9 on a splitty 9 and no problems. 1.68 amps max for all 9 fans. Octo has Max of 25 watts/channel or 100 watts combined. Noctua industrial are 2.16 watts each Max so you can run 46 of them on an octo and fill up a splitty 9 no problems on all 8 channels.


No worries on overloading. Basically it's each radiator to a splitty, So no more then 8, spread across a pair of Aqueros and couple of Quadro's most likely. Got 16 of the Noctua industrial 's for my pair of 560's, the rest all have nfa12's


----------



## InfoSeeker

ceemic said:


> Is it possible to change the graph time window longer than 60 minutes for the values on overview page in aquasuite?


I don't think so, the value box and slider both time out at 60.

But you can use the Data log to make a graph which looks to go as far back as you have data. In the setup below I have a 2 hour limit. I'll update after this one has run longer than 1 hour.

EDIT: the chart has been running for 2.5 hours and it is showing all 2.5 hours of data. I thought it would drop data past the 2 hour mark, but the 2 hour setting must not have the impact I thought it would. If I set the data to be deleted past a certain time ( after2 hours), then the result should be as anticipated. Not sure what the time limit on the analize data chart setup does. 2.5 hour chart at the bottom.

time_test_setup:









time_test_running:









tine_test_2.5-hours:


----------



## Moose-Tech

I just moved my parts into a O11-DXL and originally only had 1 EK EXRES 140 pump and res combo. I had to run the pump at 100% just to get 178 l/h. So I decided to add another D5 pump (no res) in serial for better flow and redundancy. _I ran this on my last rig and was very happy because when a pump went bad I could still use the PC until the weekend came and I had time to swap them out._

The D5 pump I added was connected to the existing D5 pump Outlet and was also mounted lower to allow the res to gravity feed into pump 2. The funny thing is that just adding the additional pump to the loop WITHOUT EVEN POWERING IT UP it improved my flow to 230 l/h. I did some quick tests just to verify the flow, See results below.

Before - Pump 1 at 100%:
178 l/h = .78 gpm

After adding another D5
Pump 1 Enabled at 100% / Pump 2 Disabled
230 l/h = 1.01 gpm

Pump 2 Enabled at 100% / Pump 1 Disabled
236 l/h = 1.04 gpm

Pump 1 and Pump 2 Enabled at 100%
320 l/h = 1.41 gpm

Pump 1 and Pump 2 Enabled at 80%
273 l/h = 1.2 gpm

I am currently running both pumps at 85%. I did find that my system seems to run a little better at a higher flow rate.


----------



## Shawnb99

My D5 Next's have a noticeable hum to them at 100%, gets better around 50% but we'll see. May have to keep them lower then that. Is why I'm running 4 of them. Not sure what my flow rate is yet as I havn't hooked up my flow next.

hmm 333lph or 1.4GPM with all 4 pumps at Max, have the AC filter installed so that could be impeding flow, no cpu or Gpu block in so will have to test a bit more. Was expecting more flow
Conductivity is 60% and quality is 78% just plain distilled. Not sure what that means


----------



## JustinThyme

Shawnb99 said:


> My D5 Next's have a noticeable hum to them at 100%, gets better around 50% but we'll see. May have to keep them lower then that. Is why I'm running 4 of them. Not sure what my flow rate is yet as I havn't hooked up my flow next.
> 
> hmm 333lph or 1.4GPM with all 4 pumps at Max, have the AC filter installed so that could be impeding flow, no cpu or Gpu block in so will have to test a bit more. Was expecting more flow
> Conductivity is 60% and quality is 78% just plain distilled. Not sure what that means


Conductivity and WQ means you need to flush it out some more. I had the same thing and it took a couple fill and drains with DW to get it to 100% WQ and after about a month its at 98%. 
3 D5s and none of mine can be heard, they are all on dampened mounts though and get me 325L/hr with a filter, CPU block (high restriction Optimus ATM, two HK GPU blocks and 4 rads with a double pass GTR 420 being the most restrictive. About to lose two of them (Keeping GTR 420 but moving it to the basement and moving GTS 360 to the front and ditching two EK rads, 480XE and 360SE) when I get off my a$$ and get the MORA and 2 more D5s in the loop. Work is killing me. Had time today to get busy with it but worn out after a 20 hour shift at a Goldman Sachs site yesterday that was supposed to be 8. 66 hour work week this week. I get paid 40 no matter what but when the OT passes the 55 hour mark uncle sam eats so much I end up working for less than straight time. Enough to make you puke when you look at a pay stub and your take home is less than half of your gross once everyone takes a bite out of it. 

When I get the MORA in Ill probably do a few more DW flushes then Im filling it all with Mayhems pastel red. Kinda wondering what that's gonna do with the WQ. I'll know soon enough. Just like the coolant. Haven't had any issues with it and it looks great. My tubes look naked with just DW and antimicrobial.


----------



## Shawnb99

JustinThyme said:


> Conductivity and WQ means you need to flush it out some more. I had the same thing and it took a couple fill and drains with DW to get it to 100% WQ and after about a month its at 98%.
> 3 D5s and none of mine can be heard, they are all on dampened mounts though and get me 325L/hr with a filter, CPU block (high restriction Optimus ATM, two HK GPU blocks and 4 rads with a double pass GTR 420 being the most restrictive.


Yeah mine are on dampened mounts as well, all give off a hum at 100% still likely won’t run them that high. Am seeing about 333L/hr with no blocks, 6 GTX radiators and a GTS, plus about 10-15 90 degree fits atm.
I’ll do a few more flushes and see if I can get closer to 100% quality, only a temp setup till my KPE block and I’ll switch to XTR fluid. 

It’s interesting watching how much heat the D5’s dump into the loop, about 5 degrees or so after a couple hours.


----------



## InfoSeeker

Shawnb99 said:


> Yeah mine are on dampened mounts as well, all give off a hum at 100% still likely won’t run them that high. Am seeing about 333L/hr with no blocks, 6 GTX radiators and a GTS, plus about 10-15 90 degree fits atm.
> I’ll do a few more flushes and see if I can get closer to 100% quality, only a temp setup till my KPE block and I’ll switch to XTR fluid.
> 
> It’s interesting watching how much heat the D5’s dump into the loop, about 5 degrees or so after a couple hours.


I found the same thing. That little pump top test I did had only a reservoir initially, but it didn't take long for the alarm (50C) to sound, so I had to install a radiator. Them little buggers put out quite a bit of heat.


----------



## Shawnb99

InfoSeeker said:


> I found the same thing. That little pump top test I did had only a reservoir initially, but it didn't take long for the alarm (50C) to sound, so I has to install a radiator. Them little buggers put out quite a bit of heat.


Yeah I was surprised how much they heated up the loop. This was with 7 radiators as well, though no fans but still 5 degrees in a few hours is more then I expected. Will have to leave it over night and see how much more it’ll heat up


----------



## JustinThyme

Shawnb99 said:


> Yeah I was surprised how much they heated up the loop. This was with 7 radiators as well, though no fans but still 5 degrees in a few hours is more then I expected. Will have to leave it over night and see how much more it’ll heat up


I didn’t notice any additional heat when you compare a loaded 10980XE amd pair or 2080Tis. If I leave my in an idle state with 3 pumps running my loop temp is only 1C above ambient and will stay there for a week if I leave it. Now if I cut the fans well that’s just common sense that no matter what pump you use friction of water moving is going to add heat. I don’t know many that rely on completely passive rads. I run 3 D5s ATM with 1st (Next mounted to bottom of HK tube res) at 100%, that feeds into the inlet of a dual serial bitspower top with two primochill enchanted D5s with 1st at 95% and second at 90%). I don’t hear Jack unless I open up my case and use a screwdriver up against the pump to my ear (mechanics stethoscope) I don’t have them set to ramp up and down, they are on a static speed. The staggering also aids in noise cancellation and won’t be the same for any giving loop. All about audio harmonics. Same principle used with noise cancellation on headphones and harmonic filtering of electronic circuits. There is no difference on any of my pumps RPMs once I drop below 60%. I’ve seen this on multiple pumps by different manufacturers and doesn’t matter how I control the PWM. 2200RPMs or so is as low as they go and max out around 4800. I’ve read a lot of folks talking about all the heat they add and all the noise but since I bought my Laing D5 when I stopped using a fish pond pump I’ve not noted much heat at all and as the industry has evolved they have become quieter and 100% guaranteed that running multiples offset will reduce noise even further. Even if you have non PWM pumps buy two different brands as the noise signatures will be different and just a slight offset in frequency will dampen its acoustical signature. What I will say is I run only the D5 next 100% is quiter than 90% and if I’m running only that pump 80% is the sweet spot. Go less and I lose the higher pitched sound and start getting the Frank Zappa “ Dynamo Hum” I got $40 says you can make me uhhhhh don’t wanna get banned 😂

I would also add that if I had one doing the dynamo hum throughout its range especially at high speeds I’d be sending that sucker back as that means the impeller is imbalanced. No different than a car tire. It’s a magneto drive sitting atop a cermic bearing. If the impeller is perfectly balanced the only sound you should hear is water moving.

quietest system I ever had had zero fans and the pump was in the basement. Totally passive geothermal loop. 1/4 HP pump sitting atop a 5 gal bucket in the basement with copper tubing running up a chase to the second floor and a low voltage thermostat Wire running down. 12V output when system started pulled in a relay to run the 120V pump in the basement that for what it was was quiet but I heard nothing two floors up. What replaced rads as stainless floor heating grids that I put in when I had to bust up the concrete in my basement for an unrelated project with redirecting the sump pump discharge. I’m like *** and tried it. Best liquid cooled system I’ve ever had. Totally silent from my desk and the dirt under the concrete in the basement is 18C all year with the floor heating grid having a surface area of 120 sqft (10x12). Worlds only geothermal cooled PC. Then I moved everything and the room I’m in has a cathedral ceiling so I can’t extend the tubing without busting out some of the ceiling and wall, just not with all that.


----------



## Shawnb99

JustinThyme said:


> I didn’t notice any additional heat when you compare a loaded 10980XE amd pair or 2080Tis. If I leave my in an idle state with 3 pumps running my loop temp is only 1C above ambient and will stay there for a week if I leave it. Now if I cut the fans well that’s just common sense that no matter what pump you use friction of water moving is going to add heat. I don’t know many that rely on completely passive rads. I run 3 D5s ATM with 1st (Next mounted to bottom of HK tube res) at 100%, that feeds into the inlet of a dual serial bitspower top with two primochill enchanted D5s with 1st at 95% and second at 90%). I don’t hear Jack unless I open up my case and use a screwdriver up against the pump to my ear (mechanics stethoscope) I don’t have them set to ramp up and down, they are on a static speed. The staggering also aids in noise cancellation and won’t be the same for any giving loop. All about audio harmonics. Same principle used with noise cancellation on headphones and harmonic filtering of electronic circuits. There is no difference on any of my pumps RPMs once I drop below 60%. I’ve seen this on multiple pumps by different manufacturers and doesn’t matter how I control the PWM. 2200RPMs or so is as low as they go and max out around 4800. I’ve read a lot of folks talking about all the heat they add and all the noise but since I bought my Laing D5 when I stopped using a fish pond pump I’ve not noted much heat at all and as the industry has evolved they have become quieter and 100% guaranteed that running multiples offset will reduce noise even further. Even if you have non PWM pumps buy two different brands as the noise signatures will be different and just a slight offset in frequency will dampen its acoustical signature. What I will say is I run only the D5 next 100% is quiter than 90% and if I’m running only that pump 80% is the sweet spot. Go less and I lose the higher pitched sound and start getting the Frank Zappa “ Dynamo Hum” I got $40 says you can make me uhhhhh don’t wanna get banned 😂
> 
> I would also add that if I had one doing the dynamo hum throughout its range especially at high speeds I’d be sending that sucker back as that means the impeller is imbalanced. No different than a car tire. It’s a magneto drive sitting atop a cermic bearing. If the impeller is perfectly balanced the only sound you should hear is water moving.
> 
> quietest system I ever had had zero fans and the pump was in the basement. Totally passive geothermal loop. 1/4 HP pump sitting atop a 5 gal bucket in the basement with copper tubing running up a chase to the second floor and a low voltage thermostat Wire running down. 12V output when system started pulled in a relay to run the 120V pump in the basement that for what it was was quiet but I heard nothing two floors up. What replaced rads as stainless floor heating grids that I put in when I had to bust up the concrete in my basement for an unrelated project with redirecting the sump pump discharge. I’m like *** and tried it. Best liquid cooled system I’ve ever had. Totally silent from my desk and the dirt under the concrete in the basement is 18C all year with the floor heating grid having a surface area of 120 sqft (10x12). Worlds only geothermal cooled PC. Then I moved everything and the room I’m in has a cathedral ceiling so I can’t extend the tubing without busting out some of the ceiling and wall, just not with all that.


I'll never run my system passive, was just interesting how quickly the 4 heated up the loop. After one flush I'm up to 100% water quality and like 24 parts conductivity. Hum seems to have gone away as well. Funny how one day can change so much.


----------



## bern43

Thinking about getting some bequiet silent wings 3 fans for my case. The Corsair AF120 Quiet fans I'm using now aren't pushing enough air. Do the PWM version of these still have issues with the Aquaero?


----------



## JustinThyme

You want some air movement get the Noctua AF-14 2000rpm PWM industrial fans. Those will blow your hair back! Have 9 on splittys connected to one output on an AQ6 pro and others on an OCTO with more splittys as well as PWM D5 pumps.


----------



## d0mmie

JustinThyme said:


> You want some air movement get the Noctua AF-14 2000rpm PWM industrial fans. Those will blow your hair back! Have 9 on splittys connected to one output on an AQ6 pro and others on an OCTO with more splittys as well as PWM D5 pumps.


Those fans have some annoying motor noise though, so if this is something one gets annoyed by I'd rather suggest the Corsair ML120 Pro. Those are 2000 RPM / PWM as well and move a lot of air and you can't hear the motor at all.


----------



## Shawnb99

d0mmie said:


> Those fans have some annoying motor noise though, so if this is something one gets annoyed by I'd rather suggest the Corsair ML120 Pro. Those are 2000 RPM / PWM as well and move a lot of air and you can't hear the motor at all.


Never noticed any annoying motor noise on mine. Just the normal Noctua sound signature


----------



## Biggu

So I'm finally moving back to a water cooling loop on my PC after my last pump died and dumped water all over my GPU. Now that I no longer have my Mini PC I have my 6xt I can put in my big pc as well but have a question about the flow sensor. Should I have it on the feed from the pump or the return back to the res or does it matter? Really I just want to know what the flow is so I can setup my PC to shut off if it drops to zero.


----------



## InfoSeeker

Biggu said:


> So I'm finally moving back to a water cooling loop on my PC after my last pump died and dumped water all over my GPU. Now that I no longer have my Mini PC I have my 6xt I can put in my big pc as well but have a question about the flow sensor. Should I have it on the feed from the pump or the return back to the res or does it matter? Really I just want to know what the flow is so I can setup my PC to shut off if it drops to zero.


Since water doesn't really compress, you willl have the same flow rate throughout your loop.
So you can place your flow sensor anywhere in the loop with the same result.


----------



## Shawnb99

Only the MPS sensors are recommended 5 cm from the inlet/outlet.


----------



## JustinThyme

d0mmie said:


> Those fans have some annoying motor noise though, so if this is something one gets annoyed by I'd rather suggest the Corsair ML120 Pro. Those are 2000 RPM / PWM as well and move a lot of air and you can't hear the motor at all.


Ive run both, AF14 and ML120 arent in the same ball park. One is 140 and the other is 120. The Nocutua has a higher pressure and CFMs. None of them get noisy until you run up the speed. ML 120s been around for awhile I was running them several years ago in a 900D case. They are decent fans but the spec sheet comparison tells the story. I was after the static pressure this time. The Noctua industrial are fairly new on the market.

You wanna buy some used ones? I only have about 20 of them though.


----------



## Biggu

So I got the water block running and everything going but have a few issues I need to work through. The first most annoying thing is the damn flow sensor has a very audiable clicking that wouldn't go away. I finally got it quiet though, had to reverse the flow and set it upside down. Second thing I got the aquacomputer D5 pump with aquabus interface but I cant seem to get aquasuite to control the pump flow at all. I hooked it up with USB then changed to aquabus and changed the port but no matter where I move the slider it keeps at 100% and 3690 RPM. I read that having no adjustment and pump stuck at 3600 rpm could be a sign of a bad controller so I hope that's not the case. I may try and hook it back up to USB and see if I can control it that way instead.


----------



## Biggu

Welp after fussing with the pumps for a while I finally decided to just hook up the GPU loop pump and just loop the water lines since I dont have GPU waterblock yet. The d5 pump that I have in that loop is able to be ran just fine through aquaero so that confirms to me I bought a faulty water pump. I guess that's the dangers of Ebay. I dont suppose its possible to repair the controller on the pump easily is there? The good news is where it is now im getting 215lph of flow out of it which is where I want to be anyway so I guess ill leave it as is.


----------



## Barefooter

Biggu said:


> Welp after fussing with the pumps for a while I finally decided to just hook up the GPU loop pump and just loop the water lines since I dont have GPU waterblock yet. The d5 pump that I have in that loop is able to be ran just fine through aquaero so that confirms to me I bought a faulty water pump. I guess that's the dangers of Ebay. I dont suppose its possible to repair the controller on the pump easily is there? The good news is where it is now im getting 215lph of flow out of it which is where I want to be anyway so I guess ill leave it as is.


If it is the D5 Next pump you can purchase a replacement controller here
Replacement controller for D5 NEXT pump


----------



## Biggu

Barefooter said:


> If it is the D5 Next pump you can purchase a replacement controller here
> Replacement controller for D5 NEXT pump


Sadly Its the older pump with the aquabus interface on it. they were discontinued a while ago and happened to find one on ebay and wanted a second one to pair with the one I already had.


----------



## InfoSeeker

Biggu said:


> Sadly Its the older pump with the aquabus interface on it. they were discontinued a while ago and happened to find one on ebay and wanted a second one to pair with the one I already had.


Shoot an email to *[email protected]* in case they have a controller board left in stock. Long shot, but...


----------



## JustinThyme

InfoSeeker said:


> Shoot an email to *[email protected]* in case they have a controller board left in stock. Long shot, but...


You never know, its a possibility. They are still making the modified pond pumps with newer revisions all the time. Those pumps put out some volume but just take up too much space.


----------



## Shawnb99

The more AC gear you get the more complicated it is to get it all working. All 4 pumps, High flow next and a Quadro show up in Aquasuite, two Aqueros and 2nd Quadro are giving me USB errors . Both Aqueros are on a separate Hubby7, while the rest share another one. Just swapped the Aquero Hubby and still have the issue so swapping cables next I guess. Going to try them 1 by 1 this weekend in the hopes to having it all working. 
If not I'll program each one and then leave them disconnected. 

Strangely only one pump lists it as being controlled by Aquabus when two should be but the Aquero isn't showing as connected.


----------



## JustinThyme

Shawnb99 said:


> The more AC gear you get the more complicated it is to get it all working. All 4 pumps, High flow next and a Quadro show up in Aquasuite, two Aqueros and 2nd Quadro are giving me USB errors . Both Aqueros are on a separate Hubby7, while the rest share another one. Just swapped the Aquero Hubby and still have the issue so swapping cables next I guess. Going to try them 1 by 1 this weekend in the hopes to having it all working.
> If not I'll program each one and then leave them disconnected.
> 
> Strangely only one pump lists it as being controlled by Aquabus when two should be but the Aquero isn't showing as connected.


Something isn’t right.
Im running 1 D5Next, aqauero6 pro, quadro and Octo as well as Next flow no issues. I even have stacked powered hubs with the aquaero and Corsair RGB devices all coming off of a single MOBO header. Every header supports up to 127 devices. Only worry is power draw that shouldn’t be an issue if you are using the SATA power on the Hubby. Max power out of the port is 5A. I have everything on PSU powered NZXT hubs.


----------



## Shawnb99

JustinThyme said:


> Something isn’t right.
> Im running 1 D5Next, aqauero6 pro, quadro and Octo as well as Next flow no issues. I even have stacked powered hubs with the aquaero and Corsair RGB devices all coming off of a single MOBO header. Every header supports up to 127 devices. Only worry is power draw that shouldn’t be an issue if you are using the SATA power on the Hubby. Max power out of the port is 5A. I have everything on PSU powered NZXT hubs.


Yeah it appears it may be a faulty cable or something. When the hubby7 with both Aqueros connected I USB errors and have issues posting, once I disconnected it the issues went away. I'll try swapping out cables and hubs on the weekend see if I can pin point it down. We time consuming having to do them one by one, load windows and then repeat.


----------



## Shawnb99

K small change. New cable directly from MB to Aquaero and it's now showing up. So could of just been a bunch of faulty cables. Still need to get the Aquero in the pedestal showing up hopefully I don't have to take it all apart.


----------



## JustinThyme

Shawnb99 said:


> K small change. New cable directly from MB to Aquaero and it's now showing up. So could of just been a bunch of faulty cables. Still need to get the Aquero in the pedestal showing up hopefully I don't have to take it all apart.


Yeah hopefully. That’s why I try to make it somewhat orderly in the back lacing cables by function but don’t really care what it looks like as a solid cover is going on it anyhow. The front side is another story.


----------



## Biggu

InfoSeeker said:


> Shoot an email to *[email protected]* in case they have a controller board left in stock. Long shot, but...


Gotta say im shocked, they replied back saying they have a controller they would sell and would need soldered on. Even sent me a picture of instruction! Looks like ill just do that since it cant hurt at this point. Ill order a NEXT d5 pump too while im at it so Ive got an extra just in case. I suppose since I have to get it shipped from them Im going to order some other things Ive been wanting like the hubby7, water filter and Id like to get new flow sensors. these have gotten much quieter but I can still hear the click and its bothering me. What flow sensor do you all reccomend that doesent make noise? Should I try their new highflow sensor 2?


----------



## JustinThyme

Biggu said:


> Gotta say im shocked, they replied back saying they have a controller they would sell and would need soldered on. Even sent me a picture of instruction! Looks like ill just do that since it cant hurt at this point. Ill order a NEXT d5 pump too while im at it so Ive got an extra just in case. I suppose since I have to get it shipped from them Im going to order some other things Ive been wanting like the hubby7, water filter and Id like to get new flow sensors. these have gotten much quieter but I can still hear the click and its bothering me. What flow sensor do you all reccomend that doesent make noise? Should I try their new highflow sensor 2?


Yeah When I do an order from them I try and fill up that flat rate box to account for the shipping fee. Its a little high but I get it in like 3 days. I cant speak for the high flow sensor II, I used the original for a couple of years and now running the Next. Looks like they have some in stock so better jump on it as the Next sensors are hard to come by. 






Flow sensor high flow NEXT, G1/4


Flow sensor high flow NEXT, G1/4: Fully integrated sensor for coolant flow, temperature and quality ewuipped with USB interface, RGBpx lighting and OLED display. Flow measurement Coolant flowing through the sensor drives a rotor/impeller, a contactless magnetic sensor system detects the rotation...




shop.aquacomputer.de


----------



## chibi

I've used the MPS 400 flow sensor in the past and the built in temp sensor was janky to say the least. My new high flow next just arrived, wondering if I need to use my spare inline temp sensors, or is this one accurate enough to do without it?


----------



## Shawnb99

chibi said:


> I've used the MPS 400 flow sensor in the past and the built in temp sensor was janky to say the least. My new high flow next just arrived, wondering if I need to use my spare inline temp sensors, or is this one accurate enough to do without it?


It should be accurate to do without. I've gone without now


----------



## JustinThyme

chibi said:


> I've used the MPS 400 flow sensor in the past and the built in temp sensor was janky to say the least. My new high flow next just arrived, wondering if I need to use my spare inline temp sensors, or is this one accurate enough to do without it?


I still have a cali temp in the loop after components and its 0.3 C higher than the Next at Idle and the two are still less than 1C different under heavy load. Is it really necessary? Not really. I just want to see what the temps are at the point leaving my heat loads before they get cooled by rads for giggles. The Next appears accurate or at least pretty darn close. when I first crank up they are less than 0.1C different.


----------



## WiLd FyeR

What type of RGB connection does the Quadro use?


----------



## InfoSeeker

WiLd FyeR said:


> What type of RGB connection does the Quadro use?


The QUADRO and OCTO both use the RGBpx (PicoBlade) connectors.

If you connect to RGB strips other than aquacomputer, you may need one of THESE adapters.


----------



## d0mmie

So a brand new Octo or Quadro now only comes with 6 months of free software/firmware upgrades (used to be two years). To say I have mixed feelings about this is an understatement. I guess they're running low on capital...


----------



## InfoSeeker

d0mmie said:


> So a brand new Octo or Quadro now only comes with 6 months of free software/firmware upgrades (used to be two years). To say I have mixed feelings about this is an understatement. I guess they're running low on capital...


The licensing scheme has been active since November 2017.
The term of the license depends on the cost of the device:

aquaero XT: 30 months
aquaero PRO/LT & D5 NEXT: 18 months
all other devices: 6 months
The aquasuite is a large part of what makes the auacomputer devices. It is always unpleasant to face additional costs, but then I also want development updates to stay current. For me 15 EUR every 2 years is a fair price for a hobby item.


----------



## chibi

Shawnb99 said:


> It should be accurate to do without. I've gone without now





JustinThyme said:


> I still have a cali temp in the loop after components and its 0.3 C higher than the Next at Idle and the two are still less than 1C different under heavy load. Is it really necessary? Not really. I just want to see what the temps are at the point leaving my heat loads before they get cooled by rads for giggles. The Next appears accurate or at least pretty darn close. when I first crank up they are less than 0.1C different.


Thanks guys, looks like I'll be retiring my calitemps + older sensors into the bin of extra stuff that may or may not be pulled to action.


----------



## JustinThyme

chibi said:


> Thanks guys, looks like I'll be retiring my calitemps + older sensors into the bin of extra stuff that may or may not be pulled to action.


I left the Cali temp in just to see two things, how the Next temp stacked up and the difference from when it leaves the pumps (Next Flow meter) and when it leaves the blocks (cali temp). But as you see from my post its nothing thats not expected. 1C under load higher before heading to rads. Ive always given the advice that the loop once its saturated is the same no matter where you measure it and thats still pretty accurate, 1C doesnt matter as thats after it leaves the blocks and it drops that 1C by the time it goes through the rads and back through the pumps. Some will argue that point but in the end one good accurate reliable sensor is all one really needs (add to that I didnt really want to redo the tubing run where the Cali temp is installed so it stayed).

Bin? LOL I have 3 sections of shelves in the basement. Cases, MOBOs, pumps, blocks, any wire you can think of, keyboards, mice, CPUs, GPUs, back up monitor etc.


----------



## JustinThyme

InfoSeeker said:


> The licensing scheme has been active since November 2017.
> The term of the license depends on the cost of the device:
> 
> aquaero XT: 30 months
> aquaero PRO/LT & D5 NEXT: 18 months
> all other devices: 6 months
> The aquasuite is a large part of what makes the auacomputer devices. It is always unpleasant to face additional costs, but then I also want development updates to stay current. For me 15 EUR every 2 years is a fair price for a hobby item.


Thats how it should be but Ive found its based on serial number. The last thing I bought was a Next Flow meter but an Octo goes out further. Regardless it will update everything with your license expiring on the last device. Right now Im sitting on August of this year for a D5 Next, the flow meter I just bought and its expiration is in June. I renewed my license last year on an aquaero pro before I added the rest of the stuff (D5Next, Next flow, Octo and quardro) and I didn't get any 2022 expiration date.

Either way its worth it to pay to play. Have to do the same with office 365, Adobe, AV etc anyhow. Same as membership in this forum to get rid of ads but Ill be damned as soon as a paid up I get greeted on every other login with a freakin captacha, what the fugg is that all about?


----------



## InfoSeeker

JustinThyme said:


> Thats how it should be but Ive found its based on serial number. The last thing I bought was a Next Flow meter but an Octo goes out further. Regardless it will update everything with your license expiring on the last device. Right now Im sitting on August of this year for a D5 Next, the flow meter I just bought and its expiration is in June. I renewed my license last year on an aquaero pro before I added the rest of the stuff (D5Next, Next flow, Octo and quardro) and I didn't get any 2022 expiration date.
> 
> Either way its worth it to pay to play. Have to do the same with office 365, Adobe, AV etc anyhow. Same as membership in this forum to get rid of ads but Ill be damned as soon as a paid up I get greeted on every other login with a freakin captacha, what the fugg is that all about?


I took the license duration times right off the product pages from the aquacomputer web shop:
aquaero 6 XT:​


> *Notes on the aquasuite software:*
> When you activate this product you will receive the current version of the aquasuite software including an upgrade service for at least thirty (30) months.


aquaero 6 PRO & aquaero 6 LT, D5 NEXT:​


> *Notes on the aquasuite software:*
> When you activate this product you will receive the current version of the aquasuite software including an upgrade service for at least eighteen (18) months.


OCTO, QUADRO, HIGH FLOW NEXT, farbwerk 360 and all other devices that list in aquasuite:​


> *Notes on the aquasuite software:*
> When you activate this product you will receive the current version of the aquasuite software including an upgrade service for at least six (6) months.


In the original POST introducing the licensing scheme there was an option for 1 year at 9.90 *€*, or 2 years at 14.90 *€*. but the current UPDATE page appears to have only the 1 year option.


----------



## JustinThyme

I have no doubt, I'm just stating My reality. My 6 pro I've had for awhile so can't make an argument there other than I did pay for a license renewal and it should be the one dictating my end of license but its not.
Quadro is about 6 months old, Octo and D5 next about 3 months old and I just put in the Nextflow less than a month ago. All purchased direct. Should go by activation date but I think it follows serial.

If memory serves me correctly i had plenty of time left on the 6 pro but put it in a new build and had to buy another license to download and activate the software and it gave me a hard time, had to open a ticket because it wouldn't finish the install.


----------



## d0mmie

InfoSeeker said:


> The licensing scheme has been active since November 2017.
> The term of the license depends on the cost of the device:
> 
> aquaero XT: 30 months
> aquaero PRO/LT & D5 NEXT: 18 months
> all other devices: 6 months
> The aquasuite is a large part of what makes the auacomputer devices. It is always unpleasant to face additional costs, but then I also want development updates to stay current. For me 15 EUR every 2 years is a fair price for a hobby item.


I get what you're saying which i also why I said that I have mixed feelings about this. Let me explain: It's not cheap to have programmers and testers work on this stuff, and Aquasuite is probably the best software on the market that can perform the functions it does. However... This is a German product and in Germany, like the rest of the EU there's a two year warranty on all products (well with a few exceptions and the first 6 months are warranty and the remaining 18 months are a right for reclamation). So they offer two years of warranty on the hardware, but won't support the software for more than 6 months? That's really strange considering if there's a critical bug which makes the hardware not work properly, I have to pay more to get it fixed within the warranty period. To me this is just plain weird and I have not seen this kind of behaviour before and I find it disappointing.


----------



## ManniX-ITA

d0mmie said:


> I get what you're saying which i also why I said that I have mixed feelings about this. Let me explain: It's not cheap to have programmers and testers work on this stuff, and Aquasuite is probably the best software on the market that can perform the functions it does. However... This is a German product and in Germany, like the rest of the EU there's a two year warranty on all products (well with a few exceptions and the first 6 months are warranty and the remaining 18 months are a right for reclamation). So they offer two years of warranty on the hardware, but won't support the software for more than 6 months? That's really strange considering if there's a critical bug which makes the hardware not work properly, I have to pay more to get it fixed within the warranty period. To me this is just plain weird and I have not seen this kind of behaviour before and I find it disappointing.


Definitely not the best way to market a product... but let me say, living in Germany, that's not a priority here.
You take what is the offer; not happy? Get lost. Go somewhere else, don't waste my time.
A cordial welcoming is something very rare in most of Germany.
This kind of behavior for software support for an hardware device is legit.
If there's a breaking bug and you can't use it at all when you bought it, that's covered by warranty.
It's a Dead On Arrival. But if it happens after your return period, means litigation.
Maybe you start using it after 6 months and a new Windows version is not compatible with the software you activated earlier?
That's your problem; you need to buy the upgrade.
It's not helping sales and not consumer friendly. But that's it.


----------



## InfoSeeker

ManniX-ITA said:


> Definitely not the best way to market a product... but let me say, living in Germany, that's not a priority here.
> You take what is the offer; not happy? Get lost. Go somewhere else, don't waste my time.
> A cordial welcoming is something very rare in most of Germany.
> This kind of behavior for software support for an hardware device is legit.
> If there's a breaking bug and you can't use it at all when you bought it, that's covered by warranty.
> It's a Dead On Arrival. But if it happens after your return period, means litigation.
> Maybe you start using it after 6 months and a new Windows version is not compatible with the software you activated earlier?
> That's your problem; you need to buy the upgrade.
> It's not helping sales and not consumer friendly. But that's it.


From my experience aquacomputer's after sale support is very good.
On the other hand, their communications has room for improvement, but as you stated, that may reflect a cultural difference in expectations.

Your point "Maybe you start using it after 6 months and a new Windows version is not compatible with the software you activated earlier?" is precisely what the licensing scheme attempts to address. The product you purchased worked when you installed it, with the system you install it in. If you modify the environment with newly developed options, you cannot expect an older product to work without additional development.


----------



## ManniX-ITA

InfoSeeker said:


> From my experience aquacomputer's after sale support is very good.
> On the other hand, their communications has room for improvement, but as you stated, that may reflect a cultural difference in expectations.
> 
> Your point "Maybe you start using it after 6 months and a new Windows version is not compatible with the software you activated earlier?" is precisely what the licensing scheme attempts to address. The product you purchased worked when you installed it, with the system you install it in. If you modify the environment with newly developed options, you cannot expect an older product to work without additional development.


Exactly that 
I don't mind, living in Germany from a few years so got used to it...
But being Italian, where a similar behavior wouldn't be acceptable, I was pretty shocked the first times!

If the product works when you buy it, that's all that matters legally.
There's still a lot of software that doesn't entitle you to any kind of upgrades when you buy it.


----------



## JustinThyme

ManniX-ITA said:


> Definitely not the best way to market a product... but let me say, living in Germany, that's not a priority here.
> You take what is the offer; not happy? Get lost. Go somewhere else, don't waste my time.
> A cordial welcoming is something very rare in most of Germany.
> This kind of behavior for software support for an hardware device is legit.
> If there's a breaking bug and you can't use it at all when you bought it, that's covered by warranty.
> It's a Dead On Arrival. But if it happens after your return period, means litigation.
> Maybe you start using it after 6 months and a new Windows version is not compatible with the software you activated earlier?
> That's your problem; you need to buy the upgrade.
> It's not helping sales and not consumer friendly. But that's it.


They do it like everyone else....because they can. It’s not overly expensive. Now if they were talking $100 USD for a 1 year renewal I’d just do without. Everything is already set up with the profiles loaded and the aquaero you don’t need the software to make changes, can do it through the screen or external controller, just no FW updates. I pay more for my office 365, Adobe which is expected and about twice as much for AV so it’s not a big deal. They have good products that seem to always be in demand. They did replace my OCTO after one of the software updates borked it completely, wouldn’t even work in standalone. That one I’m thinking was X24 screwed the pooch in a bad way. The fix for that was released quick like before they had to give away more hardware but came with a warning that popped up to unplug everything from devices before updating which I think was the only change at that point. They seem to have it straight now with X38, no need to unplug anything. I’m good until August at which point just before it expires I’ll do a clean install then pay for the year of license. That’s cheap compared to what we charge for out proprietary software. Very few are actually allowed to get it and the license fee is around $6000/year. When it expires it won’t launch at all, asks for new license and can only be installed on one machine. (Generates an environment code)


----------



## Turgin

In the middle of integrating my new high flow NEXT into my loop and have a question regarding the power measurement and sensor placement. Can I place the NEXT after the rad and the external sensor before the rad or does the NEXT have to be on rad inlet? It sure would make my life easier if I can.


----------



## InfoSeeker

Turgin said:


> In the middle of integrating my new high flow NEXT into my loop and have a question regarding the power measurement and sensor placement. Can I place the NEXT after the rad and the external sensor before the rad or does the NEXT have to be on rad inlet? It sure would make my life easier if I can.


Your preference will work. The unit uses the absolute difference, it matters not which is high or low.


----------



## InfoSeeker

Nice upgrade at McMaster.com... they now show shipping cost when you check out.


----------



## karate

Hello. My room not have temperature control some times becoming very hot. I am interested to operate the cooling from delta T normally and if area becoming hot he should target set water. I try alarm profile switch but it blip fan rpm. Some idea how to manage this?


----------



## InfoSeeker

I performed an informal pump-top test for a couple of pump tops and placed the results in fast_fate's Test Thread.


----------



## kendo5587

ManniX-ITA said:


> Definitely not the best way to market a product... but let me say, living in Germany, that's not a priority here.
> You take what is the offer; not happy? Get lost. Go somewhere else, don't waste my time.
> A cordial welcoming is something very rare in most of Germany.
> This kind of behavior for software support for an hardware device is legit.
> If there's a breaking bug and you can't use it at all when you bought it, that's covered by warranty.
> It's a Dead On Arrival. But if it happens after your return period, means litigation.
> Maybe you start using it after 6 months and a new Windows version is not compatible with the software you activated earlier?
> That's your problem; you need to buy the upgrade.
> It's not helping sales and not consumer friendly. But that's it.


so you can use the version you started with forever, but if you want to upgrade it you have to pay?


----------



## ManniX-ITA

kendo5587 said:


> so you can use the version you started with forever, but if you want to upgrade it you have to pay?


Yes, there are a lot of details here where you can buy the update:






Aqua Computer







licensing.aquacomputer.de


----------



## Shawnb99

D5 next came apart on me today. Hopefully it still works. Doesn’t look like I broke anything 









Though got a good look at the temp sensor on it, sadly not one that touches the water like I thought


----------



## ManniX-ITA

Shawnb99 said:


> Though got a good look at the temp sensor on it, sadly not one that touches the water like I thought


Oh... that looks more like a pump temp sensor than a water temp sensor.


----------



## Shawnb99

ManniX-ITA said:


> Oh... that looks more like a pump temp sensor than a water temp sensor.


Yeah that’s my hope as well. I’ll check again when I have it running


----------



## zeroibis

I recently updated HWinfo but it no longer shows up as a source for aquasuite. Has anyone else run into this issue? (2017 3.1)


----------



## WiLd FyeR

On the AquaSuite for Quadro. What would cause the GPU software temp to not able to get a temp reading? 

Noticed my GPU was hovering in the 70's because GPU software wasn't getting a temp. Made sure I increased the fallback fan speed just in case it happens again.


----------



## ManniX-ITA

zeroibis said:


> I recently updated HWinfo but it no longer shows up as a source for aquasuite. Has anyone else run into this issue? (2017 3.1)


Maybe cause in the last version 7.x the SHM is disabled by default.
You need to pay otherwise after a while, I think 12 hours, it will disabled itself.
Maybe consider to go back to 6.x version,


----------



## InfoSeeker

zeroibis said:


> I recently updated HWinfo but it no longer shows up as a source for aquasuite. Has anyone else run into this issue? (2017 3.1)


The new version has the 'Shared Memory Support' option disabled as default (used to be enabled).

right click on the HWiNFO icon in the taskbar
click on 'Settings' and check 'Shared Memory Support'
If you are licensed, this needs be done one time after installation
if you are not licensed, you will need to reactivate every time you start, and every 12 hours of run-time


----------



## zeroibis

ManniX-ITA said:


> Maybe cause in the last version 7.x the SHM is disabled by default.
> You need to pay otherwise after a while, I think 12 hours, it will disabled itself.
> Maybe consider to go back to 6.x version,





InfoSeeker said:


> The new version has the 'Shared Memory Support' option disabled as default (used to be enabled).
> 
> right click on the HWiNFO icon in the taskbar
> click on 'Settings' and check 'Shared Memory Support'
> If you are licensed, this needs be done one time after installation
> if you are not licensed, you will need to reactivate every time you start, and every 12 hours of run-time
> 
> View attachment 2512161


Ok so now I understand why it would only show up for a bit. I guess I got to get an old version.

I guess problem is now trying to find v6.42 somewhere.

Thanks so much for the help guys, that was 100% the problem and finding a copy of 6.42 was the solution. Not paying $25 just to get my cpu temp, they are on crack.


----------



## InfoSeeker

zeroibis said:


> Ok so now I understand why it would only show up for a bit. I guess I got to get an old version.
> 
> I guess problem is now trying to find v6.42 somewhere.
> 
> Thanks so much for the help guys, that was 100% the problem and finding a copy of 6.42 was the solution. Not paying $25 just to get my cpu temp, they are on crack.


I disagree, I find HWiNFO very useful, and am willing to support the effort. The initial $25.00 (renewals will be less) is a pitance compared to my total expenditure on this hobby, and well worth ensuring HWiNFO is available.


----------



## Barefooter

InfoSeeker said:


> I disagree, I find HWiNFO very useful, and am willing to support the effort. The initial $25.00 (renewals will be less) is a pitance compared to my total expenditure on this hobby, and well worth ensuring HWiNFO is available.


Agreed! One of my favorite programs that I keep on display all the time.


----------



## zeroibis

InfoSeeker said:


> I disagree, I find HWiNFO very useful, and am willing to support the effort. The initial $25.00 (renewals will be less) is a pitance compared to my total expenditure on this hobby, and well worth ensuring HWiNFO is available.


Would have been a bit more willing if:
1) They split off the paid version rather than go with the upgrade route and demand payment from unsuspecting users and then not supply the old version on their site. Basically trying to trick you into upgrading and then finding out you need to pay and not providing the old version. 
2) For 25$ apparently as you say this is per year! ROFL, I can see for the people who use all the features but to just get the numbers to show in aquasuite this is a joke.


----------



## InfoSeeker

zeroibis said:


> Would have been a bit more willing if:
> 1) They split off the paid version rather than go with the upgrade route and demand payment from unsuspecting users and then not supply the old version on their site. Basically trying to trick you into upgrading and then finding out you need to pay and not providing the old version.
> 2) For 25$ apparently as you say this is per year! ROFL, I can see for the people who use all the features but to just get the numbers to show in aquasuite this is a joke.


That is a valid point of view... if it does not provide value to you, do not use it.


----------



## ManniX-ITA

zeroibis said:


> 1) They split off the paid version rather than go with the upgrade route and demand payment from unsuspecting users and then not supply the old version on their site. Basically trying to trick you into upgrading and then finding out you need to pay and not providing the old version.


There's a post in HWInfo's forum where this is discussed, you should read it.

The old version will always be available to download according to Martin.

If you go to Download and select FossHub, the CDN, ther's a link for the old versions:








HWiNFO


HWiNFO: Free software download for olderv versions of windows.




www.fosshub.com





Freeware, for an application that needs a lot of effort in constant updates, means you have to create a source of income.
HWInfo's model was based on commercial applications to pay for an SDK to support it.
Sadly almost anyone was respecting the license, eg. Aquasuite, Elgato, etc

Therefore it was either kill the application or ask money for it.
I'm glad to support it cause I'm using it a lot and I need it.
I've seen hundreds of wonderful freeware utilities dying for this reason.
Seems that you need it as well but you are not willing to pay 2 bucks per month the 1st year and 1 buck per month the next years.
The upgrade is a 50% discount for the next years with 60 days of grace period, 12.5$ per year.
The license also covers 5 PC for 1 user.

Plus note that the only feature which is restricted in the new freeware edition is SHM, accessing it from other applications.
So it's feature reduced only if some other application, mostly commercial applications, is plugging in.
For non commercial applications, if they are widely used, Martin added free support, eg. Rainmeter

Do we want to talk about the prices of similarly used applications?

AIDA64 50$ and 35$ upgrade for 3 PC.
Sandra Personal 75$ and 50$ upgrade for 5 PC.

In general I pay all the software I use as a token of respect and support for the developers.
I'm hurting every time I pay for AIDA (I don't use most of the features) and I'll never pay that amount of money for Sandra.

HWInfo could cost less but really what would be the right price? 20/10? 15/7.5?
7.5 for a yearly maintenance is too less and 10 doesn't really make a difference vs 12.5.

If you need it, which means another commercial application taking advantage of it, 25/12.5 is not a bad price.
I guess the SDK is still on sale so maybe start complaining to them instead.



zeroibis said:


> 2) For 25$ apparently as you say this is per year! ROFL, I can see for the people who use all the features but to just get the numbers to show in aquasuite this is a joke.


As said above is 12.5$; my opinion is that Aqua should pay for the license since they sell a commercial software.
But you can also do the same with AIDA for only 50/35 per year. You'll get some benchmarks and stress test on top.


----------



## zeroibis

ManniX-ITA said:


> There's a post in HWInfo's forum where this is discussed, you should read it.
> 
> The old version will always be available to download according to Martin.
> 
> If you go to Download and select FossHub, the CDN, ther's a link for the old versions:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> HWiNFO
> 
> 
> HWiNFO: Free software download for olderv versions of windows.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> www.fosshub.com
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Freeware, for an application that needs a lot of effort in constant updates, means you have to create a source of income.
> HWInfo's model was based on commercial applications to pay for an SDK to support it.
> Sadly almost anyone was respecting the license, eg. Aquasuite, Elgato, etc
> 
> Therefore it was either kill the application or ask money for it.
> I'm glad to support it cause I'm using it a lot and I need it.
> I've seen hundreds of wonderful freeware utilities dying for this reason.
> Seems that you need it as well but you are not willing to pay 2 bucks per month the 1st year and 1 buck per month the next years.
> The upgrade is a 50% discount for the next years with 60 days of grace period, 12.5$ per year.
> The license also covers 5 PC for 1 user.
> 
> Plus note that the only feature which is restricted in the new freeware edition is SHM, accessing it from other applications.
> So it's feature reduced only if some other application, mostly commercial applications, is plugging in.
> For non commercial applications, if they are widely used, Martin added free support, eg. Rainmeter
> 
> Do we want to talk about the prices of similarly used applications?
> 
> AIDA64 50$ and 35$ upgrade for 3 PC.
> Sandra Personal 75$ and 50$ upgrade for 5 PC.
> 
> In general I pay all the software I use as a token of respect and support for the developers.
> I'm hurting every time I pay for AIDA (I don't use most of the features) and I'll never pay that amount of money for Sandra.
> 
> HWInfo could cost less but really what would be the right price? 20/10? 15/7.5?
> 7.5 for a yearly maintenance is too less and 10 doesn't really make a difference vs 12.5.
> 
> If you need it, which means another commercial application taking advantage of it, 25/12.5 is not a bad price.
> I guess the SDK is still on sale so maybe start complaining to them instead.
> 
> 
> 
> As said above is 12.5$; my opinion is that Aqua should pay for the license since they sell a commercial software.
> But you can also do the same with AIDA for only 50/35 per year. You'll get some benchmarks and stress test on top.


Oh, cool good to know you can still get the older versions there. Not sure why I did not run across that place in my initial searches.

Yea I did see there was a forum post about it but that does nothing to warn unsuspecting users of the dangers of updating. Even after I installed the last free version it right away asked me to update and did not say or warn anything that doing so was going to cost me money. This is what I find deceptive.

If you want to start charging that is your right but I do not like the idea of removing features in an "update" and then turning around and demanding money for them without first warning the user what this "update" involves.

I am sure there will be a point in the future when I need some new feature and at that time I will explorer my options and buy the software solution that fits my needs. But until then there is no reason not to be using free software that does exactly what I want.


----------



## ManniX-ITA

zeroibis said:


> Yea I did see there was a forum post about it but that does nothing to warn unsuspecting users of the dangers of updating. Even after I installed the last free version it right away asked me to update and did not say or warn anything that doing so was going to cost me money. This is what I find deceptive.
> 
> If you want to start charging that is your right but I do not like the idea of removing features in an "update" and then turning around and demanding money for them without first warning the user what this "update" involves.


It could have been handled better for sure.
Martin is a good guy indeed but also a developer.
As many good developers he lacks fine communication skills 



zeroibis said:


> I am sure there will be a point in the future when I need some new feature and at that time I will explorer my options and buy the software solution that fits my needs. But until then there is no reason not to be using free software that does exactly what I want.


Indeed, whoever doesn't need any new features in 7.x branch can still use 6.42 till the end of times.


----------



## JustinThyme

It was one of my favorites but now dead in the water. Won’t run at all even just to launch and monitor temps in the sensors window. I was running on 6.4 I think for the longest and did the update and that’s when things went way south. Corrupted my raidO that my OS is on when it hung on detecting drives then BSOD Critical process died. Had never heard of that one. No error code. Had to do a hard shut down then wouldn’t reboot. Back to fresh install which I’m still working on software and will be for some time. So I decide to try the 7.4 while I’m still in the beginning stages and it hung again and I tried to end the process and it wouldn’t. Shut it down before I got stuck in the same boat. Not the devices as HW monitor and AIDA64 work fine and yes I had everything shut down including all monitoring and aquasuite and even my AV. After that even the 6.4 won’t install and I’m not doing another clean install over that. All I really used it for was on screen monitoring while running benches. Only thing I’m worried about is watching temps and the Corsair nexus does just what I need without another app and I can watch it right on top of my keyboard and run a logger if I want. HW monitor provides the same info I was using as well. For the aquasuite I use AIDA64 mostly because it was already paid for long ago.


----------



## blitzraider

Elementary question as I'm a beginner but I'm setting up my Aquaero 6 for the first time ever. I have the following to connect.
-3 front case fans PWM
-3 top rad fans PWM
-1 rear case fan PWM
-1 pump (non Aquacomputer, but PWM)
-1 motherboard mini fan (DC)
-1 flow meter
-A few 2 pin temp sensors

It looks like I can plug everything into the Aquaero EXCEPT the mobo mini fan, unless I expand. Is that correct? I have a PowerAdjust3 I can connect (via Aquabus?)

What if I connect the rear case fan and front case fans to the same hub? Do people do that, run rear and front case fans at the same speed?


----------



## JustinThyme

Depends on if the rear fan and front fans are the same. If they are then it won’t hurt anything to put them on the same hub. The other alternative is to buy another device like a quadro or an octo. Using hubs are fine, some fans are picky on what hubs you use. I was using silver stone Sata powered hubs then when I switched some of the fans to Noctua Industrial they wouldn’t work on that hub although that’s all I had plugged in, just one fan would spin up. Changed to a splitty and they work just fine and it’s non powered (runs off the power coming from the aquaero port and doesn’t exceed the power limit. I have so many that I can possible run them all off the aquaero so I also have a quadro and an octo. They can be run by aqauabus or USB but have to be on USB for firmware updates. That’s all dependent on how many USB ports you have and it their aren’t enough there is also the hubby to get you more USB ports.


----------



## blitzraider

JustinThyme said:


> Depends on if the rear fan and front fans are the same. If they are then it won’t hurt anything to put them on the same hub. The other alternative is to buy another device like a quadro or an octo. Using hubs are fine, some fans are picky on what hubs you use. I was using silver stone Sata powered hubs then when I switched some of the fans to Noctua Industrial they wouldn’t work on that hub although that’s all I had plugged in, just one fan would spin up. Changed to a splitty and they work just fine and it’s non powered (runs off the power coming from the aquaero port and doesn’t exceed the power limit. I have so many that I can possible run them all off the aquaero so I also have a quadro and an octo. They can be run by aqauabus or USB but have to be on USB for firmware updates. That’s all dependent on how many USB ports you have and it their aren’t enough there is also the hubby to get you more USB ports.


Thanks, I'll probably look at an Octo or Quadro. I have a few more amateur questions for anyone who can help:
-How do you determine the min and max voltages on a PWM pump and fan? I was playing with the max scaling and both were running even if I set the PWM setting to 1%, although the RPMs don't go any lower past a certain voltage.
-Before the aquaero, my fans were able to come to a full stop with another fan controller. I can't seem to do that in the aquaero or find the setting in the aquasuite. Is this a thing?
-Where is a good resource to find idle and benchmark temps I should aim for for my system?
-In the fan settings, what does the below window do? Sliding it doesn't seem to affect the behavior of my fans of pumps. The aquaero manual doesn't say much about it either.


----------



## JustinThyme

I wouldn’t run the fans or pump to stall points. PWM voltage should be full. It’s the pulse width that changes the duty cycle. It’s really switching on and of at around 3KHz depending on desired speed. To set up auto controls you need to go to the controller section and add controllers and name them. You can then on the left side select the reference source and on the right select the outputs you want to control. Then automatic and set upper and lower temps and min and max speeds. In percentage. I have mine set for 28-32c. Anything 28 or less the min is 20% and they ramp up to full speed at 32C with liquid temp as the reference as all my fans with the exception of two are on rads. You need to make sure under fans that they are set for PWM and not DC or power. They seldom go past about 80% with a heavy load. The other two fans I set at a constant speed under fans at 40% where they are moving air but can’t hear them over everything else. Pumps, I have 3. First in loop runs 100% second at 95 and 3rd at 90%. This offsets them and will actually cancel out the pump whine. It takes multiple pumps and you just have to tinker with them at static speeds to find the sweet spot for max flow and min noise. No two rigs will be the same.


----------



## JustinThyme

I’ll post up a few screen shots later.


----------



## InfoSeeker

blitzraider said:


> Thanks, I'll probably look at an Octo or Quadro. I have a few more amateur questions for anyone who can help:
> -How do you determine the min and max voltages on a PWM pump and fan? I was playing with the max scaling and both were running even if I set the PWM setting to 1%, although the RPMs don't go any lower past a certain voltage.
> -Before the aquaero, my fans were able to come to a full stop with another fan controller. I can't seem to do that in the aquaero or find the setting in the aquasuite. Is this a thing?
> -Where is a good resource to find idle and benchmark temps I should aim for for my system?
> -In the fan settings, what does the below window do? Sliding it doesn't seem to affect the behavior of my fans of pumps. The aquaero manual doesn't say much about it either.
> View attachment 2512728


Not sure if this is what you are asking, but hopefully it helps:


----------



## JustinThyme

That’s another way for case fans.


----------



## blitzraider

InfoSeeker said:


> Not sure if this is what you are asking, but hopefully it helps:


It's this window when I click this "i" button. I think my Aquaero is a newer version?


----------



## blitzraider

JustinThyme said:


> I wouldn’t run the fans or pump to stall points. PWM voltage should be full. It’s the pulse width that changes the duty cycle. It’s really switching on and of at around 3KHz depending on desired speed. To set up auto controls you need to go to the controller section and add controllers and name them. You can then on the left side select the reference source and on the right select the outputs you want to control. Then automatic and set upper and lower temps and min and max speeds. In percentage. I have mine set for 28-32c. Anything 28 or less the min is 20% and they ramp up to full speed at 32C with liquid temp as the reference as all my fans with the exception of two are on rads. You need to make sure under fans that they are set for PWM and not DC or power. They seldom go past about 80% with a heavy load. The other two fans I set at a constant speed under fans at 40% where they are moving air but can’t hear them over everything else. Pumps, I have 3. First in loop runs 100% second at 95 and 3rd at 90%. This offsets them and will actually cancel out the pump whine. It takes multiple pumps and you just have to tinker with them at static speeds to find the sweet spot for max flow and min noise. No two rigs will be the same.


Yea, sorry I misspoke, I mean the power %, not sure what to set the min of that at. I currently have it at 25%


----------



## JustinThyme

On the fans I have the profiles set as such











Then off to the controller section. Add controllers. For the aquaero I use 2. One for my 360 rads and another for 9x 140mm fans on a MORA3 420.

You just cick on add in the top right. Then I use the auto set up so they ramp as needed.

For the quadros and Octos InfoSeeker showed a good example. They are differerent as you set them up by the channel output.


----------



## blitzraider

JustinThyme said:


> On the fans I have the profiles set as such


You have a wide screen! But thanks for the reference pics. Do you set the pump on a curve as well, or is there a recommended flow rate? I read a few places saying 1Gal/Min. I can only get 0.6Gal/Min on max output as I'm have an older pump, and it's quite audible at that setting.


----------



## JustinThyme

Then if you get bored and want to get real industrious you can set up an overview page. This one is not for the weak of heart. Took me an entire day to get it set up. This you would be better off referring to the aquasuite website. Im using AIDA 64 to import some of the data. InfoSeeker uses HWinfo pro.

This resides on the top right of my desktop.
Aquacomputer products will certainly take your money from you but IMO no better way. MOBO controls blow, fans up and down and up and down same with the corsair commander pro. Hysteresis sucks. The aquacomputer products are smooth and fluid motion. Nice slow ramp ups and downs with no knee jerk reactions like the others.


----------



## blitzraider

JustinThyme said:


> Then if you get bored and want to get real industrious you can set up an overview page. This one is not for the weak of heart. Took me an entire day to get it set up. This you would be better off referring to the aquasuite website. Im using AIDA 64 to import some of the data. InfoSeeker uses HWinfo pro.
> 
> This resides on the top right of my desktop.


I'm looking to set something up like this as I installed an external screen in my case, but hoping I can just import a template from somewhere. I played with that a bit and it does look like a tedious process.


----------



## JustinThyme

There is one to get you started in the default.










There is also a DATA file that this saves to. Once you get it where you want copy that data file and save it off the PC in case you crash and want to go right back, otherwise its starting all over.
C:\ProgramData\aquasuite-data. Just copy the entire folder. If you crash and have to reload windows and reinstall the software you can just go to the same location and delete the new file and replace it with the one you saved. Then everything is as is was.
It is tedious to set up but once you get there you can save it and never have to do it again. Of course I tinker with mine as things change but the initial setup takes awhile.

I have some more tinkering to do as I had different set ups and didnt save the most recent changes and working on it here and there. Had virtual sensors set up in the playground to display CPU and GPU deltas and the main windows were arranged a little differently. I just got done with a clean install after trying to get HWinfo to run killed my raidO array. Drives still fine. It hung up on detecting drives, shut it down and that was that. Array broken. I managed to get it up on latest version now with no problems. Dont know what happened. That VROC array has been in place and running for a couple of years with no issues at all.


----------



## InfoSeeker

blitzraider said:


> It's this window when I click this "i" button. I think my Aquaero is a newer version?
> View attachment 2512731


Clicking on that (i) button opens that SIMULATION window you attached... It has no actual effect on fan performance. It is intended to help visualize the relationship between Min/Max settings, and the effect the controller has on Output.

with Minimum Power at 0, and Maximum Power at 100, sliding the Controller bar is one to one.
0 on the Controller is 0 on the Output, 100 on the Controller is 100 on the Output.
with Minimum Power at 25, and Maximum Power at 80, sliding the controller bar is not linear.
0 on the controller is 25 on Output, 100 on the Controller is 80 on Output.
That is what the snapshot I attached tried to show... the range of the controller is 0-100 over the range between the Min and Max settings.

Clear as mud?


----------



## blitzraider

InfoSeeker said:


> Clicking on that (i) button opens that SIMULATION window you attached... It has no actual effect on fan performance. It is intended to help visualize the relationship between Min/Max settings, and the effect the controller has on Output.
> 
> with Minimum Power at 0, and Maximum Power at 100, sliding the Controller bar is one to one.
> 0 on the Controller is 0 on the Output, 100 on the Controller is 100 on the Output.
> with Minimum Power at 25, and Maximum Power at 80, sliding the controller bar is not linear.
> 0 on the controller is 25 on Output, 100 on the Controller is 80 on Output.
> That is what the snapshot I attached tried to show... the range of the controller is 0-100 over the range between the Min and Max settings.
> 
> Clear as mud?


Super clear...as mud lol! What is the purpose of a simulator when we get a graph showing the curve. Is it for people who are touch-and-feel (sliding with mouse) learners vs visual learners? Is this a German thing?


----------



## InfoSeeker

blitzraider said:


> Super clear...as mud lol! What is the purpose of a simulator when we get a graph showing the curve. Is it for people who are touch-and-feel (sliding with mouse) learners vs visual learners? Is this a German thing?


It's not about the shape of the curve, it is about the Output. The curve looks the same, but the output varies according to the min/max limitations.

There must have been questions from users as to why they could not take fan rpm to zero after previously having set a minimum output in fan settings. Perhaps the two snapshots below better illustrate the issue:

full range (min/max 0/100)restricted range (min/max 25/80)


----------



## DaLiu

One question regarding D5 Next virtual flow sensor, I know is not accurate but for the sake of it, I did the calibration with 2 radiators (2 x Heatkiller new rads) and the pump, nothing else, and the reading says around 380 L/h at 100% speed pump speed, isn't too much even for a virtual sensor?

Calibration method: I used a valve, closed the valve, start the calibration, waited to finish, open the valve.

Second issue is when I deactivate the leds on the pump I get 5V out of range alarm.
Im using an external power supply (12V, 2A) just for testing, I did not connected the D5 Next to the computer yet.

IMG_7299.MOV


----------



## blitzraider

InfoSeeker said:


> It's not about the shape of the curve, it is about the Output. The curve looks the same, but the output varies according to the min/max limitations.
> 
> There must have been questions from users as to why they could not take fan rpm to zero after previously having set a minimum output in fan settings. Perhaps the two snapshots below better illustrate the issue:
> 
> full range (min/max 0/100)restricted range (min/max 25/80)
> View attachment 2512806
> 
> View attachment 2512807


Thanks for the images, that part is intuitive for me. I mean if you set limits, obviously the controller will work around those limits.


----------



## JustinThyme

DaLiu said:


> One question regarding D5 Next virtual flow sensor, I know is not accurate but for the sake of it, I did the calibration with 2 radiators (2 x Heatkiller new rads) and the pump, nothing else, and the reading says around 380 L/h at 100% speed pump speed, isn't too much even for a virtual sensor?
> 
> Calibration method: I used a valve, closed the valve, start the calibration, waited to finish, open the valve.
> 
> Second issue is when I deactivate the leds on the pump I get 5V out of range alarm.
> Im using an external power supply (12V, 2A) just for testing, I did not connected the D5 Next to the computer yet.
> 
> IMG_7299.MOV


For a single pump, yes that sounds high but no restrictions other than 2 rads may not be all that far off. I get 325 measured with the next flow meter with 3 D5s, GTR 420, GTS 360, SE360, XE480, Optimus CPU block and two heatkiller GPU blocks with a lot of tubing and elbows and various fittings as well as an inline filter.


----------



## d0mmie

Hey I'm having an odd issue with my Octo/Aquasuite suddenly over the last week or so. Once my PC wakes up from hibernation, the soft. sensors fail to populate on the screen and it's just showing "--" for CPU, GPU, PCH, etc... No new updated to Windows has been installed since April, and no new drivers been updated (from what I can gather, as it's been deactivated with DDU). Aquasuite is the latest version.

Only thing that fixes it, is either a system reboot or stop/start the Aquasuite Background service.


----------



## Biggu

Got a nice delivery in the mail today. Biggest thing I’ve been waiting for in the box is a new controller for my d5 with Aquabus that has a bad controller. Also ordered new pumps in case I can’t fix it and new high flow sensors because my current ones are a bit loud.


----------



## kendo5587

i have an OCTO and a D5 next pump. Can I control the D5 next PWM and ARGB only with the D5 Next USB out to the mobo, or do I also have to connect the D5 Next to the OCTO? 

Also could it work the other way like I could connect the ARGB and POWN to the OCTO and then not need to also connect the D5 Next pump to the mobo?


----------



## Biggu

Oh man oh man! I got my D5 pump that wasnt being controlled by the aquaero fixed!!! Turns out either it had cold solder joint in two locations that broke or they were never soldered on. To be honest it looks like two never got soldered on looking at the pads. Ended up desoldering the ribbon cable on the PCB in the "controller" side in one spot and re soldering it down then desoldered it on the pump side in all three spots and scooted the cable over since it looked like it was misaligned. 

Now Ive got 2 spare aquabus controllers for the d5 pump AND two D5 Next pumps I probably wont use. I only bought them in case I messed up the one pump and had to replace it since Id want matching pumps. 

This has me all wondering now if I could solder the aquabus PCB onto a regular PWM d5 pump and convert it over though...


----------



## InfoSeeker

kendo5587 said:


> i have an OCTO and a D5 next pump. Can I control the D5 next PWM and ARGB only with the D5 Next USB out to the mobo, or do I also have to connect the D5 Next to the OCTO?
> 
> Also could it work the other way like I could connect the ARGB and POWN to the OCTO and then not need to also connect the D5 Next pump to the mobo?



the D5 Next requires no attachment to the OCTO... as a matter of fact, I believe there is no method available to connect a D5 NEXT to an OCTO
as mentioned, there is no way to connect an OCTO to a D5 Next, ergo, there is no way to control the D5 NEXT from an OCTO
once the D5 NEXT is setup (controllers, etc), it does not require a USB connection to operate.


----------



## blitzraider

Sorry for repeating an earlier question, but where is a good resource to find idle and benchmark temps I should aim for for my system based on my components? 

I'm also trying to determine my target water temperature. Based on my research I should aim for less than 40 degrees Celsius. Is that right?


----------



## kendo5587

InfoSeeker said:


> the D5 Next requires no attachment to the OCTO... as a matter of fact, I believe there is no method available to connect a D5 NEXT to an OCTO
> as mentioned, there is no way to connect an OCTO to a D5 Next, ergo, there is no way to control the D5 NEXT from an OCTO
> once the D5 NEXT is setup (controllers, etc), it does not require a USB connection to operate.


well it haas a PWM slot and what I presume is a RGBpx slot on the left thats how I thought it could be controlled from the OCTO. ButI think Ill just use the USB if thats possible.


----------



## InfoSeeker

kendo5587 said:


> well it haas a PWM slot and what I presume is a RGBpx slot on the left thats how I thought it could be controlled from the OCTO. ButI think Ill just use the USB if thats possible.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: picture
> 
> 
> 
> 
> View attachment 2513083



the PWM port is output only, or Flow Sensor input
the RGBpx port is output only, or aquabus
From the D5 NEXT product page:


> *Key features* of the D5 NEXT include:
> · Laing D5 ceramic bearing motor for optimum durability and smoothness
> · Detachable controller unit for easy access to the electrical connectors
> · High resolution OLED display and integrated buttons for operation even without a PC
> · Integrated RGBpx illumination for light effects and alarm indication
> · Integrated water temperature sensor
> · PWM fan output with up to 25 Watts of power and speed monitoring
> · Fan output can alternatively be used as a flow sensor input
> · Versatile control options
> · Eight further values can be transferred from the PC to the D5 NEXT using the aquasuite software
> · RGBpx LED output for LED strips and fans with individually controllable LEDs
> · RGBpx LED output can alternatively be configured as aquabus interface for connection to an aquaero 5/6
> · Alarm buzzer for acoustic alarm indication
> · Power supply via SATA connector
> · USB 2.0 interface
> · Firmware can be updated via USB
> · aquasuite software for a comfortable setup, evaluation and visualization of all sensor data


----------



## kendo5587

InfoSeeker said:


> the PWM port is output only, or Flow Sensor input
> the RGBpx port is output only, or aquabus
> From the D5 NEXT product page:


Oh right so its a mini mini controller. So I could run my other d5 (not aqua) into it, cool. Saves plugging them both into the OCTO.


----------



## blitzraider

Is there a good Water-Air Delta temp range that y'all use for the fan curve? I'm guessing setting max delta at 10 would be a good start?

I was also wondering what this start bar does? I couldn't really find it in the manual. I've done a lot of reading and also used the guide by Barefooter which was very helpful.


----------



## JustinThyme

InfoSeeker said:


> the D5 Next requires no attachment to the OCTO... as a matter of fact, I believe there is no method available to connect a D5 NEXT to an OCTO
> as mentioned, there is no way to connect an OCTO to a D5 Next, ergo, there is no way to control the D5 NEXT from an OCTO
> once the D5 NEXT is setup (controllers, etc), it does not require a USB connection to operate.


Yeah, what he said.....
The Pump had its own controller. While you can use the temp and speed sensors elsewhere the controller is in the pump and once set up you can unplug it or not even use the software at all if you like spending an hour poking at the buttons to navigate through the menu on the OLED but if its disconnected you cant monitor is anywhere else but the OLED.

Other D5 PWM pumps is another story. Just connect the PWM cable of the pump to any fan header and aquero, quadro or octo can control them. I have two pumps that are not D5 Next on aquaero PWM outputs. Got to like the Primochill enhanced pumps over just about any other standard PWM D5 pump but the one D5 I have is nice, the orientation is where I can see the display but my other two pumps are a bit hidden and the two after that on the MORA that I havent hooked up yet will be run off a quadro. One channel on Push fans with a splitty, another for pull which I may or may not use but have them, and one channel each for the primochill D5s on the aquacomputer serial top. If 5 pumps wont push through everything at high rates I give up. Im guessing Ill probably be retuning all the pumps when I add the MORA as two more is just crazy overkill but Id rather have them and not need them and run them all at a lower speed than to not have them and suffer in flow and pressure at the jet plates.


----------



## JustinThyme

blitzraider said:


> Is there a good Water-Air Delta temp range that y'all use for the fan curve? I'm guessing setting max delta at 10 would be a good start?
> 
> I was also wondering what this start bar does? I couldn't really find it in the manual. I've done a lot of reading and also used the guide by Barefooter which was very helpful.
> View attachment 2513294



I set mine to run off of liquid temp regardless of the ambient temp. 28-32 liquid temp

Start settings are to give it a boost at start up so it ramps to full speed then settles back down so you don't stall. Doesnt matter much on PWM fans as they go to 100% duty cycle until the controller is active.


----------



## JustinThyme

Biggu said:


> Got a nice delivery in the mail today. Biggest thing I’ve been waiting for in the box is a new controller for my d5 with Aquabus that has a bad controller. Also ordered new pumps in case I can’t fix it and new high flow sensors because my current ones are a bit loud.
> 
> View attachment 2513042


Nice, just made my bank account cry seeing this LOL. Just a quick glance and rough quick estimate that looks like 5 Ben Franklins up in that box, but hey, that's FREE shipping!!
Doing dual loop?


----------



## Biggu

JustinThyme said:


> Nice, just made my bank account cry seeing this LOL. Just a quick glance and rough quick estimate that looks like 5 Ben Franklins up in that box, but hey, that's FREE shipping!!
> Doing dual loop?


it made mine cry at the time too! I had to buy the repair boards for my older style aquabus d5 pump to try and repair the one I had that didnt work with aquabus(turned out to be bad solder joints). I figured if I cant get it fixed I need to replace it and since the d5 Next pumps seem to always be out of stock everywhere id just get them at the same time but since I have dual loops I want them to match. I also have/ had a flow sensor that kept making a click so I figured well im replacing my pumps with the new style might as well order new next flow sensors....


----------



## JustinThyme

The Next flow sensors seem to be harder to come by than the pumps. I placed an order for one at ModMyMods, the page said in stock and ready to ship. I got an email with order confirmation and they charged my card. A week later and still no ship notification. So I called and Sean or however he spells his name said they didn’t have any in stock and hadn’t had any for a few months. I had a screen capture of the in stock ready to ship and the order. They of course changed it to backorders accepted and swore that this is the way it’s been. I sent them the screen shot. Asked them when and they said had no idea when they would get stock and said they are normally drop shipped like most of their items. I’m like OK please refund and cancel the order. Then he drops the bombshell that it would cost me 10% to cancel the order. I’m like really dude? A couple of clicks with less time than what you just spent on the phone with me costs $10? I’m not paying for an order cancellation on something you showed as in stock and ready to ship. Told him I’ll take it up with my credit card company and he laughed and said good luck with that and hung up. Well Sean, joke is on you as they reversed the charges. They won’t get any more business from me! I ended up paying a slightly inflated price for one but it wasn’t horrible. Actually a little less than what it would have cost to order just the flow sensor and shipping direct from manufacturer. I do order direct some times but I make sure it either classifies for free shipping or I get as much as I can to fill up a box for the flat rate shipping charge. They always have stock at the manufacturer although they don’t list it for sale. When an aquasuite update bricked my OCTO they sent me a new one although stock on the webpage said none. They didn’t even want the old one back, said they know what happened and it’s useless. That release bricked a lot of devices and was taken down. First they said you have to unplug everything from the device then they fixed it and a new release works fine. I imagine they sent out a lot of replacement devices. The complaints I’ve seen posted pretty much were just OCTOs and QUADROs from a hosed up firmware update.


----------



## blitzraider

JustinThyme said:


> The Next flow sensors seem to be harder to come by than the pumps. I placed an order for one at ModMyMods, the page said in stock and ready to ship. I got an email with order confirmation and they charged my card. A week later and still no ship notification. So I called and Sean or however he spells his name said they didn’t have any in stock and hadn’t had any for a few months. I had a screen capture of the in stock ready to ship and the order. They of course changed it to backorders accepted and swore that this is the way it’s been. I sent them the screen shot. Asked them when and they said had no idea when they would get stock and said they are normally drop shipped like most of their items. I’m like OK please refund and cancel the order. Then he drops the bombshell that it would cost me 10% to cancel the order. I’m like really dude? A couple of clicks with less time than what you just spent on the phone with me costs $10? I’m not paying for an order cancellation on something you showed as in stock and ready to ship. Told him I’ll take it up with my credit card company and he laughed and said good luck with that and hung up. Well Sean, joke is on you as they reversed the charges. They won’t get any more business from me! I ended up paying a slightly inflated price for one but it wasn’t horrible. Actually a little less than what it would have cost to order just the flow sensor and shipping direct from manufacturer. I do order direct some times but I make sure it either classifies for free shipping or I get as much as I can to fill up a box for the flat rate shipping charge. They always have stock at the manufacturer although they don’t list it for sale. When an aquasuite update bricked my OCTO they sent me a new one although stock on the webpage said none. They didn’t even want the old one back, said they know what happened and it’s useless. That release bricked a lot of devices and was taken down. First they said you have to unplug everything from the device then they fixed it and a new release works fine. I imagine they sent out a lot of replacement devices. The complaints I’ve seen posted pretty much were just OCTOs and QUADROs from a hosed up firmware update.


Oh wow, which firmware update should I be careful of?


----------



## blitzraider

Also have a separate question: can I plug TWO single row usb connectors (like the Aquacomputer stuff) into the SAME usb header? The top and bottom row pinouts seem to be the same.


----------



## Bartdude

blitzraider said:


> Also have a separate question: can I plug TWO single row usb connectors (like the Aquacomputer stuff) into the SAME usb header? The top and bottom row pinouts seem to be the same.
> View attachment 2513772
> View attachment 2513773


Yes


----------



## Biggu

Can confirm, Yes you can.


----------



## Barefooter

blitzraider said:


> Also have a separate question: can I plug TWO single row usb connectors (like the Aquacomputer stuff) into the SAME usb header? The top and bottom row pinouts seem to be the same.
> View attachment 2513772
> View attachment 2513773


As mentioned yes you can... but be sure to plug it in correctly since it can be plugged in backwards. Just in case you do not know the two black wires and there should be an arrow on the connector over the outer most black wire goes over the missing pin on the motherboard.


----------



## JustinThyme

blitzraider said:


> Oh wow, which firmware update should I be careful of?


You are good now. They pulled that one down after having to give out free replacements. I think it was version X23 and it’s up to X39 now. All those issues have been fixed.


----------



## blitzraider

Did y'all remove the label on the Aquaero right side of the PCB prior to installing the heatsink? I'm not sure if there are any components on that side to cool.


----------



## iamjanco

JustinThyme said:


> The Next flow sensors seem to be harder to come by than the pumps. I placed an order for one at ModMyMods, the page said in stock and ready to ship. I got an email with order confirmation and they charged my card. A week later and still no ship notification. So I called and Sean or however he spells his name said they didn’t have any in stock and hadn’t had any for a few months. I had a screen capture of the in stock ready to ship and the order. They of course changed it to backorders accepted and swore that this is the way it’s been. I sent them the screen shot. Asked them when and they said had no idea when they would get stock and said they are normally drop shipped like most of their items. I’m like OK please refund and cancel the order. Then he drops the bombshell that it would cost me 10% to cancel the order. I’m like really dude? A couple of clicks with less time than what you just spent on the phone with me costs $10? I’m not paying for an order cancellation on something you showed as in stock and ready to ship. Told him I’ll take it up with my credit card company and he laughed and said good luck with that and hung up. Well Sean, joke is on you as they reversed the charges. They won’t get any more business from me! I ended up paying a slightly inflated price for one but it wasn’t horrible. Actually a little less than what it would have cost to order just the flow sensor and shipping direct from manufacturer.


Sorry to necro this, but just got an order in from ModMyMods that included one each Watercool D5-DUALTOP Industrial Line Pump Top and was supposed to include two each Watercool WCP D5-PWM Pumps for it, but there was only one pump in the box. Left a VM for them and sent them an email, but I'm not sure I like the trend. 

From now on I'll likely just order directly from manufacturers where I can to avoid bs like this in the future. It's not the first time I've gotten less than optimal service from them, and I was trying to give them the benefit of the doubt.


----------



## JustinThyme

I gave them the benefit once. They screwed up an order long ago and the only reason I tried them with the Next Flowmeter is their webpage said in stock and ready to ship. Then they pulled a texas two step on me.


----------



## iamjanco

JustinThyme said:


> I gave them the benefit once. They screwed up an order long ago and the only reason I tried them with the Next Flowmeter is their webpage said in stock and ready to ship. Then they pulled a texas two step on me.


I actually got a fairly nice, apologetic email and a call back from their warehouse manager Josh about an hour after I posted that, and they sent me the missing pump express before their FEDEX pickup yesterday. So there's that. Though I wanted to add the parts to my bench this weekend, what with the mess everything is in here and elsewhere worldwide, I didn't dwell on it too long.


----------



## JustinThyme

Glad you got a better result with them then I did. I think I spoke to Josh once some time ago over a different matter. Sean had a very unprofessional tone from the get go and the laughing at me and hanging up not only chapped my a$$, the charges were reversed and a hit from the BBB and FTC. All because he wanted to charge me $10 to click,,,,cancel after the webpage said in stock and ready to ship.


----------



## kendo5587

What is the default % for fans connected to the PWM of an OCTO when you first turn it on?


----------



## zerophase

Building a new water cooling rig. Putting a 3990x in there. Having a hard time finding in stock Aquero 6 heat sinks. Think that's a sign the 7 is coming soon?

My Aquero in my current system can support 21 fans, pump, and flow sensor. Can the OCTO do that too?


----------



## Shawnb99

zerophase said:


> Think that's a sign the 7 is coming soon?


I think the 6 might be the last one they make. Really no need for a front bay device, plus Octo or Quadro can do almost everything the Aquero can do. Little reason for an Aquabus hub. 
I find myself using mine less and less


----------



## Section31

Shawnb99 said:


> I think the 6 might be the last one they make. Really no need for a front bay device, plus Octo or Quadro can do almost everything the Aquero can do. Little reason for an Aquabus hub.
> I find myself using mine less and less


I think so too. I want to replace my 6lt with octo as 6lt is too big


----------



## JustinThyme

kendo5587 said:


> What is the default % for fans connected to the PWM of an OCTO when you first turn it on?


Honestly can’t recall but it doesn’t take long to set up the curves or a manual static speed. There is also an option to boost on start up that will ramp the chennels to 100% then drop back down. You can disable that. You can program in min and max speeds of the fan then use either a static speed a curve and there’s one more that’s slipping me ATM. All of mine are on curves. Rads use liquid temp for a reference and ventilation fans use internal case temp sensor as a reference. The ventilation fans generally stay pretty low as the rad fans move plenty of air through the case. Then I have to 140s in the basement exhausting the 420 that’s down there isolated from the top of the case. Those are on a curve based on the temp in the basement as I have the 420 pushing through the 420 but the fans are pulling fresh air in from the bottom with the rad on top of them. The air will get pushed out either way but adding a couple of fans in there just helps getting the rad exhaust air out of the case. They generally stay pretty low as well.

But yeah set your min and max speed and then your preferred control method. Personally I don’t see any point in a static speed when you can run a curve that will ramp them up as the temps increase. I love the aqauacomputer products. Nothing on the market matches controllability and hysteresis. Nice slow even ramps up and down. No over shooting and cycling up and down and up and down and up and down repeatedly like the Corsair commander pro and every MOBO control I’ve tried.
I’m still using an aquaero 6pro. Just yanked the bay brackets off of it and put it in the back of the case on the bottom. It comes in handy when you use it for pump controls and just want to fill a loop without powering on anything else. It’s accessible so I can take a spare PSU and plug the pumps in and the molex to the controller then just the 24 pin ATX with the power on jumper plug in and can just use the PSU switch on and off while filling. No need to pull all the other crap out. Having a spare PSU helps, I have a couple that I’m not using. One is a Corsair AX1200i that I bought initially and the PSU calculator is a lying MOFO. Upped to an AX1500i and ran that for a year but my machine pushes that to the edge. When the AX1600i came outside with the gallium nitride transistors I couldn’t help myself and had to get one although they aren’t cheap. The voltage on it is steady as a rock though all step loads and the fan rarely comes on and when it does you can’t hear it over the rad fans that have kicked it up a notch over the increased load. My biggest surprised is the AX1600i is actually smaller in physical dimensions than thr 1200 and 1500! Gallium transistors in action shrinking the package. Only PITA is if you ordered custom cables from the pervious versions the 24 pin connection at the PSU has more pins so different cable. That sucked a little so had to run ugly cable that is in a sleeve but looks like crap on both ends when the wires just explode in different directions. Had to run that for better than a month as the only way to get a cable mods cable to match what I have was to order it direct and that takes awhile. I don’t think it takes them long to make it but they ship slow boat from China Via UAE shipping service, I’m guessing to avoid import tarriffs. Everything I’ve ordered direct is at least a month to get.


----------



## zerophase

Shawnb99 said:


> I think the 6 might be the last one they make. Really no need for a front bay device, plus Octo or Quadro can do almost everything the Aquero can do. Little reason for an Aquabus hub.
> I find myself using mine less and less


Octo seems to be sold out everywhere, but Aquacomputer. MPS flow 400 is out of stock for two months too.

Is there an alternative high flow flow meter? Don't really want to wait two months to finish my machine.


----------



## kendo5587

JustinThyme said:


> Honestly can’t recall but it doesn’t take long to set up the curves or a manual static speed. There is also an option to boost on start up that will ramp the chennels to 100% then drop back down. You can disable that. You can program in min and max speeds of the fan then use either a static speed a curve and there’s one more that’s slipping me ATM. All of mine are on curves. Rads use liquid temp for a reference and ventilation fans use internal case temp sensor as a reference. The ventilation fans generally stay pretty low as the rad fans move plenty of air through the case. Then I have to 140s in the basement exhausting the 420 that’s down there isolated from the top of the case. Those are on a curve based on the temp in the basement as I have the 420 pushing through the 420 but the fans are pulling fresh air in from the bottom with the rad on top of them. The air will get pushed out either way but adding a couple of fans in there just helps getting the rad exhaust air out of the case. They generally stay pretty low as well.
> 
> But yeah set your min and max speed and then your preferred control method. Personally I don’t see any point in a static speed when you can run a curve that will ramp them up as the temps increase. I love the aqauacomputer products. Nothing on the market matches controllability and hysteresis. Nice slow even ramps up and down. No over shooting and cycling up and down and up and down and up and down repeatedly like the Corsair commander pro and every MOBO control I’ve tried.
> I’m still using an aquaero 6pro. Just yanked the bay brackets off of it and put it in the back of the case on the bottom. It comes in handy when you use it for pump controls and just want to fill a loop without powering on anything else. It’s accessible so I can take a spare PSU and plug the pumps in and the molex to the controller then just the 24 pin ATX with the power on jumper plug in and can just use the PSU switch on and off while filling. No need to pull all the other crap out. Having a spare PSU helps, I have a couple that I’m not using. One is a Corsair AX1200i that I bought initially and the PSU calculator is a lying MOFO. Upped to an AX1500i and ran that for a year but my machine pushes that to the edge. When the AX1600i came outside with the gallium nitride transistors I couldn’t help myself and had to get one although they aren’t cheap. The voltage on it is steady as a rock though all step loads and the fan rarely comes on and when it does you can’t hear it over the rad fans that have kicked it up a notch over the increased load. My biggest surprised is the AX1600i is actually smaller in physical dimensions than thr 1200 and 1500! Gallium transistors in action shrinking the package. Only PITA is if you ordered custom cables from the pervious versions the 24 pin connection at the PSU has more pins so different cable. That sucked a little so had to run ugly cable that is in a sleeve but looks like crap on both ends when the wires just explode in different directions. Had to run that for better than a month as the only way to get a cable mods cable to match what I have was to order it direct and that takes awhile. I don’t think it takes them long to make it but they ship slow boat from China Via UAE shipping service, I’m guessing to avoid import tarriffs. Everything I’ve ordered direct is at least a month to get.


Well its just I'll have 17 fans hooked up and if they're gonna blast at 100% until I can install windows I'd be better off hooking up the octo to my current pc just to set it up.


----------



## Shawnb99

kendo5587 said:


> What is the default % for fans connected to the PWM of an OCTO when you first turn it on?


I believe it's 100% until you get into Windows to program it. Also 17 fans at max is nothing, depending on the fans of course. I only had 64 running at max until I could program all mine. It's not that bad


----------



## HyperMatrix

Question for you folks. Tried researching a bit and between all the models and variants and connectors I ended up more confused than I'd like to be. I'm currently putting together a system with 30x 5.64W fans. I've stupidly purchased 4x Corsair Commander Pro units. Each one can handle about 8 fans based on power limit. But I'm running 2x Aquacomputer D5 Next pump/res as well as the High Flow Next sensor. So I was thinking it would possibly have been smarter to have gone with an Aquaero fan controller so I could control all pumps and fan speeds off of the same data, especially with the possible addition of the Aquacomputer LeakShield in the future. 

So the problem I'm facing is that I'm not seeing any fan controller capable of high enough power output. Max was I believe 4 ports at 30W max each. With 30x 3000 RPM fans I'd need at least about 180W (so 6 ports at 30W each). I was just looking for a nice clean simple solution but all I was able to find were addon modules on top of the existing 4 port system. And if I have to go with a multi-unit fan controller setup...I'm thinking I may as well just stick with the commander pro unit since I've already bought them. And it's confusing because I've previously bought a cheap $40 manual/knob fan controller with 6x 30W output for my old 4000 RPM 21W Delta fans. So I'm having a hard time believing that a more expensive version of the same thing with monitoring/digital controls wouldn't be available from a company like Aquacomputer. Hence why I'm reaching out. I'm hoping I've simply missed something.

Any input would be appreciated. This will be going in a Corsair 1000D case with 2x Ultitube 200 D5 Next reservoirs, 2x HWL GTR 480mm, and 2x HWL GTR 360mm radiators with push/pull fan setup. I'll probably be taking the hard drive cage out with a dremel since I just finished setting up a 10Gbps network in my house and will access everything off of a NAS so I'll have a bit of extra space in the case, but not too much as those rads with push/pull fans take up a ton of space on their own.


----------



## zerophase

Shawnb99 said:


> I believe it's 100% until you get into Windows to program it. Also 17 fans at max is nothing, depending on the fans of course. I only had 64 running at max until I could program all mine. It's not that bad


My Aquero has 21 fans running at 2,000 rpm whenever I update the firmware. The cooling is just as good as my fans running 500 rpms.


----------



## InfoSeeker

HyperMatrix said:


> Question for you folks. Tried researching a bit and between all the models and variants and connectors I ended up more confused than I'd like to be. I'm currently putting together a system with 30x 5.64W fans. I've stupidly purchased 4x Corsair Commander Pro units. Each one can handle about 8 fans based on power limit. But I'm running 2x Aquacomputer D5 Next pump/res as well as the High Flow Next sensor. So I was thinking it would possibly have been smarter to have gone with an Aquaero fan controller so I could control all pumps and fan speeds off of the same data, especially with the possible addition of the Aquacomputer LeakShield in the future.
> 
> So the problem I'm facing is that I'm not seeing any fan controller capable of high enough power output. Max was I believe 4 ports at 30W max each. With 30x 3000 RPM fans I'd need at least about 180W (so 6 ports at 30W each). I was just looking for a nice clean simple solution but all I was able to find were addon modules on top of the existing 4 port system. And if I have to go with a multi-unit fan controller setup...I'm thinking I may as well just stick with the commander pro unit since I've already bought them. And it's confusing because I've previously bought a cheap $40 manual/knob fan controller with 6x 30W output for my old 4000 RPM 21W Delta fans. So I'm having a hard time believing that a more expensive version of the same thing with monitoring/digital controls wouldn't be available from a company like Aquacomputer. Hence why I'm reaching out. I'm hoping I've simply missed something.
> 
> Any input would be appreciated. This will be going in a Corsair 1000D case with 2x Ultitube 200 D5 Next reservoirs, 2x HWL GTR 480mm, and 2x HWL GTR 360mm radiators with push/pull fan setup. I'll probably be taking the hard drive cage out with a dremel since I just finished setting up a 10Gbps network in my house and will access everything off of a NAS so I'll have a bit of extra space in the case, but not too much as those rads with push/pull fans take up a ton of space on their own.


In place of an aquaero, go with two OCTOs for about the same price, with 8 ports @ 100 watts total per OCTO.


----------



## zerophase

InfoSeeker said:


> In place of an aquaero, go with two OCTOs for about the same price, with 8 ports @ 100 watts total per OCTO.


By my calculations 16 x vardars should be about 34.56 watts, and 5 noctua case fans should be about 3 watts, and two D5 pumps in serial should be about 46 watts. Taking the total to about 83.56 watts. Know if this set up requires two octos if running everything at full blast?


----------



## Shawnb99

zerophase said:


> By my calculations 16 x vardars should be about 34.56 watts, and 5 noctua case fans should be about 3 watts, and two D5 pumps in serial should be about 46 watts. Taking the total to about 83.56 watts. Know if this set up requires two octos if running everything at full blast?


Be aware when calculating voltages to use the start up voltage. IE Vadars spin up past rated specs on start. I found I was only able to connect 8 per channel without tripping the over voltage protection.

As per if it can handle it all? The pumps shouldn’t count since they will be powered via molex or SATA. But so far on two Aquero’s and a Octo I have 64 fans and 6 pumps. No issues at full speeds.


----------



## InfoSeeker

zerophase said:


> By my calculations 16 x vardars should be about 34.56 watts, and 5 noctua case fans should be about 3 watts, and two D5 pumps in serial should be about 46 watts. Taking the total to about 83.56 watts. Know if this set up requires two octos if running everything at full blast?


I went by the requirements the OP presented, which was 180 watts... hence my suggestion for 2 OCTO, no aquaero for best return on money.


----------



## zerophase

InfoSeeker said:


> I went by the requirements the OP presented, which was 180 watts... hence my suggestion for 2 OCTO, no aquaero for best return on money.


I'm just trying to figure out for my own build. I think I'll be right on the edge of needing a second OCTO.


----------



## Shawnb99

zerophase said:


> I'm just trying to figure out for my own build. I think I'll be right on the edge of needing a second OCTO.


Depends on how many channels you’ll need as well. Those 16 Vadars will have to be broken into at least groups of 8


----------



## InfoSeeker

zerophase said:


> I'm just trying to figure out for my own build. I think I'll be right on the edge of needing a second OCTO.


My bad, Technically, 83 watts total should be doable... I generally don't load over 80% of spec max. There is a 25W max per channel.

The entire loop(s) should be evaluated, e.g. if dual loop you will need two OCTO, as there is only one flow sensor input on an OCTO.


----------



## zerophase

Shawnb99 said:


> Depends on how many channels you’ll need as well. Those 16 Vadars will have to be broken into at least groups of 8


Worst case I order a second a few days later. All of the water cooling **** I need is like two months on backorder.


----------



## InfoSeeker

zerophase said:


> Worst case I order a second a few days later. All of the water cooling **** I need is like two months on backorder.


OCTOs can be a bear to get also. ModMyMods has some in stock atm (just ordered one), so...


----------



## Biggu

zerophase said:


> Octo seems to be sold out everywhere, but Aquacomputer. MPS flow 400 is out of stock for two months too.
> 
> Is there an alternative high flow flow meter? Don't really want to wait two months to finish my machine.


I have a few extra high flow Nexts that looks like does 35 l/h and 1000 l/h.


----------



## HyperMatrix

InfoSeeker said:


> In place of an aquaero, go with two OCTOs for about the same price, with 8 ports @ 100 watts total per OCTO.


Thanks. I wasn’t aware the Octo was a standalone unit that worked with aqua suite. Does it have any capability to remember its curve settings on its own or will it always need the software running?



zerophase said:


> By my calculations 16 x vardars should be about 34.56 watts, and 5 noctua case fans should be about 3 watts, and two D5 pumps in serial should be about 46 watts. Taking the total to about 83.56 watts. Know if this set up requires two octos if running everything at full blast?


I’m just running the furious Vardar which are 5.64W each.


----------



## Avacado

HyperMatrix said:


> Thanks. I wasn’t aware the Octo was a standalone unit that worked with aqua suite. Does it have any capability to remember its curve settings on its own or will it always need the software running?


It has it's own memory profile and will retain the settings without aqua suite running.


----------



## Shawnb99

HyperMatrix said:


> I’m just running the furious Vardar which are 5.64W each.


That's just the power draw. Not pull up start up voltage which should be higher. 

I was running Vadar F3's at 2.4W and as I said couldn't run more then 8 off an Aquero or Quadro and that should be able to handle 25-30w. 8 x 2.4 is 19.2 so either should of been able handle at least 9 yet couldn't.
I'd look into the math a bit more. Also be aware Vadar's have a known PWM issue running off splitters and using an AC device where you lose all PWM control and can only control them on or off, plus signal reading is way off.


----------



## InfoSeeker

HyperMatrix said:


> Thanks. I wasn’t aware the Octo was a standalone unit that worked with aqua suite. Does it have any capability to remember its curve settings on its own or will it always need the software running?
> 
> I’m just running the furious Vardar which are 5.64W each.


FYI, OCTOs can be hard to come by, but ModMyMods in New York state has some in stock atm. Just saying.


----------



## Shawnb99

InfoSeeker said:


> FYI, OCTOs can be hard to come by


Anything Aquacomputer is hard to come by. Really need to jump on anything when it's in stock. Specially the last two years but now they are really swamped. Takes 4 weeks to even get a response via email now.


----------



## Turgin

Shawnb99 said:


> Anything Aquacomputer is hard to come by. Really need to jump on anything when it's in stock. Specially the last two years but now they are really swamped. Takes 4 weeks to even get a response via email now.


So true. That's been my biggest frustration with them. Sure, you might be able to get the main item but about any a la carte brackets, adapters and cables?


----------



## zerophase

Biggu said:


> I have a few extra high flow Nexts that looks like does 35 l/h and 1000 l/h.


I'm definitely interested in one of those. Probably cheaper than shipping from Germany, and paying the vat.

It sounds like a supply shortage caused by the pandemic.


----------



## Shawnb99

Turgin said:


> So true. That's been my biggest frustration with them. Sure, you might be able to get the main item but about any a la carte brackets, adapters and cables?


Don't get me started on the cables. I've broken so many of the damn things . Since the vision connector is so small the cables and connection is so thin and flimsily. Every tear down I go through at least 2-3 if not more.


----------



## HyperMatrix

InfoSeeker said:


> FYI, OCTOs can be hard to come by, but ModMyMods in New York state has some in stock atm. Just saying.


Thanks. Just ordered a couple. Hoping I don’t run into Shawnb’s problem and that they’ll be able to handle 14 fans each (79W).


----------



## Shawnb99

My problem was also per channel not total for the Quadro.


----------



## HyperMatrix

Shawnb99 said:


> My problem was also per channel not total for the Quadro.


Don't know what starting amps are for the fans but as far as operational wattage, we're looking at 11.28W per channel if I'm just sticking 2 fans on there. That's quite a ways off from the 25W max. Think that'll work out?


----------



## zerophase

Shawnb99 said:


> That's just the power draw. Not pull up start up voltage which should be higher.
> 
> I was running Vadar F3's at 2.4W and as I said couldn't run more then 8 off an Aquero or Quadro and that should be able to handle 25-30w. 8 x 2.4 is 19.2 so either should of been able handle at least 9 yet couldn't.
> I'd look into the math a bit more. Also be aware Vadar's have a known PWM issue running off splitters and using an AC device where you lose all PWM control and can only control them on or off, plus signal reading is way off.


Will I need one of those powered hubs for controlling the Vardar's, like Swiftech or Silverstone?


----------



## Shawnb99

zerophase said:


> Will I need one of those powered hubs for controlling the Vardar's, like Swiftech or Silverstone?


Splitty9 Active is the solution for the PWM issue, that is if you even have it. AC may have fixed it on their end as well. It was more of a software issue I believe.


----------



## zerophase

Shawnb99 said:


> Splitty9 Active is the solution for the PWM issue, that is if you even have it. AC may have fixed it on their end as well. It was more of a software issue I believe.


Picking up two of these. cheaper Splitty9 essentially.









Swiftech 8-Way PWM Splitter Box


The function of this device is to connect up to 8 PWM devices (fans and/or pumps) to a single PWM fan conector on the motherboard, thus enabling speed-control of all connected PWM devices concurrently.




www.performance-pcs.com


----------



## Section31

zerophase said:


> Picking up two of these. cheaper Splitty9 essentially.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Swiftech 8-Way PWM Splitter Box
> 
> 
> The function of this device is to connect up to 8 PWM devices (fans and/or pumps) to a single PWM fan conector on the motherboard, thus enabling speed-control of all connected PWM devices concurrently.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> www.performance-pcs.com


I had those before. Issue I encountered was when you really couldn't control them individually and if you have different type of fans, rpm reading was n/a. There was an model that had SATA Powered though.


----------



## zerophase

Section31 said:


> I had those before. Issue I encountered was when you really couldn't control them individually and if you have different type of fans, rpm reading was n/a. There was an model that had SATA Powered though.


I plug matching radiator fans into it. Case fans go on a different channel.


----------



## bern43

Anyone know how far apart the mounting holes are on the bracket for the Ultitube res? I currently have an aqualis mounted to the back of my Caselabs case. I'm guessing I'll need to drill more holes in the case if I want to swap reservoirs.


----------



## zerophase

bern43 said:


> Anyone know how far apart the mounting holes are on the bracket for the Ultitube res? I currently have an aqualis mounted to the back of my Caselabs case. I'm guessing I'll need to drill more holes in the case if I want to swap reservoirs.


Might be able to just buy a strong velcro, and slap it on somewhere.


----------



## zerophase

If I have an OCTO per computer can I configure an Aquero 6xt to manage multiple systems on the same loop?


----------



## kendo5587

Shawnb99 said:


> I believe it's 100% until you get into Windows to program it. Also 17 fans at max is nothing, depending on the fans of course. I only had 64 running at max until I could program all mine. It's not that bad


I thought you were joking at first lol. Are they on massive rads in the basement or something?


----------



## InfoSeeker

zerophase said:


> If I have an OCTO per computer can I configure an Aquero 6xt to manage multiple systems on the same loop?


Not sure I understand the question.
If you have an OCTO per system, why would you add on aquaero 6 XT?


----------



## zerophase

InfoSeeker said:


> Not sure I understand the question.
> If you have an OCTO per system, why would you add on aquaero 6 XT?


I want to manage all of the octos from one computer. I'm putting multiple computers on one loop if I can.


----------



## Shawnb99

kendo5587 said:


> I thought you were joking at first lol. Are they on massive rads in the basement or something?


Nope. Managed to fit 7 radiators in my TH10 and pedestal


----------



## InfoSeeker

zerophase said:


> I want to manage all of the octos from one computer. I'm putting multiple computers on one loop if I can.


"multiple computers on one loop"? control I assume, not coolant?

I believe you could control up to 4 OCTOs by connecting them via aquabus to a single aquaero 6 using an aquabus X4, but you would have only the 4 fan controllers from the aquaero 6. OCTOs have no controllers under aquabus control.

EDIT: looking at the aquaero manual (section 23.1), it appears there is only one OCTO aquabus address, so only one OCTO may be slaved to an aquaero.


----------



## paskowitz

I've got a clicky (pretty bad) High Flow NEXT. How long does on RMA for those usually take?


----------



## Leonko

How is this even possible?


----------



## JustinThyme

Leonko said:


> How is this even possible?


Looks like it keeps a vacuum on the loop. Still gonna suck in air bubbles. This is why you leak test before powering up. I stuff the case with paper towels amd run just the pump with no power on anything else for at least 24 hours. Never gone wrong. Seen a few idiot moves where connections were left off and Jack wagon powered up machine. Toasted most of it.


----------



## Shawnb99

paskowitz said:


> I've got a clicky (pretty bad) High Flow NEXT. How long does on RMA for those usually take?


It's 4 weeks to even get a reply. I've been waiting at least 3 if not more weeks for a reply for two faulty D5 Next's. Otherwise turnaround is down to how much stock, to replace my noisey Flow Next was about couple months I think


----------



## anr11

paskowitz said:


> I've got a clicky (pretty bad) High Flow NEXT. How long does on RMA for those usually take?


What orientation do you have it mounted in?


----------



## paskowitz

anr11 said:


> What orientation do you have it mounted in?


Screen facing upward


----------



## anr11

Do you have the possibility to try rotating it 90 degrees, to see if it goes away? Or does your build require this orientation?


----------



## paskowitz

anr11 said:


> Do you have the possibility to try rotating it 90 degrees, to see if it goes away? Or does your build require this orientation?


Just tried rotating it (normal, and normal inverted). Still clicks.


----------



## JustinThyme

Shawnb99 said:


> It's 4 weeks to even get a reply. I've been waiting at least 3 if not more weeks for a reply for two faulty D5 Next's. Otherwise turnaround is down to how much stock, to replace my noisey Flow Next was about couple months I think


Mines nice and quiet. No issues with D5 Next either.


----------



## anr11

paskowitz said:


> Just tried rotating it (normal, and normal inverted). Still clicks.


What's your flow rate? If you have pump speed control, does varying it change anything other than the frequency of the clicks?


----------



## Shawnb99

The issue with the flow meters being noisey is due to a crushed something or other. I forget exactly what. It's noisy no matter the flow


----------



## Biggu

When I complained to AC about mine(the old style) and this is what they said
"The ticking noise of the sensors is something that you can maybe fix yourself: remove them from your loop and open them so that you get access to the impeller. Push your thum onto its top (do not apply too much force) and rotate the impeller about 20 times to the left and right (at least 180°). This way the spiky top of the axis will slightly penetrate the bearing of the impeller which usually helps to get a smoother rotation. "

It worked for me


----------



## zerophase

Anyone own an OCTO I may buy? They're all still sold out. Last piece I need for my build.


----------



## Leonko

zerophase said:


> Anyone own an OCTO I may buy? They're all still sold out. Last piece I need for my build.


where are you from ? Canada?


----------



## zerophase

US. Have my VPN turned on.


----------



## paskowitz

anr11 said:


> What's your flow rate? If you have pump speed control, does varying it change anything other than the frequency of the clicks?


It's like Shawn said, there no matter what. .3gpm to the max of 1.5gpm.



Biggu said:


> When I complained to AC about mine(the old style) and this is what they said
> "The ticking noise of the sensors is something that you can maybe fix yourself: remove them from your loop and open them so that you get access to the impeller. Push your thum onto its top (do not apply too much force) and rotate the impeller about 20 times to the left and right (at least 180°). This way the spiky top of the axis will slightly penetrate the bearing of the impeller which usually helps to get a smoother rotation. "
> 
> It worked for me


Neat. I'll give this a try.


----------



## Leonko

zerophase said:


> US. Have my VPN turned on.


i judged according your canada flag under name  however if you were located in EU i could help you.


----------



## zerophase

InfoSeeker said:


> "multiple computers on one loop"? control I assume, not coolant?
> 
> I believe you could control up to 4 OCTOs by connecting them via aquabus to a single aquaero 6 using an aquabus X4, but you would have only the 4 fan controllers from the aquaero 6. OCTOs have no controllers under aquabus control.
> 
> EDIT: looking at the aquaero manual (section 23.1), it appears there is only one OCTO aquabus address, so only one OCTO may be slaved to an aquaero.


I think I can cut down on total pump costs. EK got back to me, and told me approximately how much radiator and pump I'll need per cpu. Going pump > cpu > rad > cpu > rad > pump is about the suggested hook up. Think if AQmade an Aquero 7, which supports this use case, it'll be popular with miners setting up large mining operations. Cpu mining is worthwhile, and those 64 core cpus need water cooling. Aquacomputer would have to add Linux support too, as it gives about a 10% hash rate bump.

PXE boot would be a possible workaround. But, cutting down on controllers would be amazing cost savings. Want to make sure the main system turns on all the slaves. Think I'll be able to cut down on pump, reservoir, and power costs this way. I'll know more once I have the second system up in a couple months.

I want the pumps and fans being aware of each other, and when to speed up without causing problems, especially for the pumps. I'll need somewhere between five and ten pumps. Maybe use some type of pipe between the computers just for safety.

My current case can support an mitx board as well. Might as well figure out if this is worthwhile with that.


----------



## InfoSeeker

zerophase said:


> I think I can cut down on total pump costs. EK got back to me, and told me approximately how much radiator and pump I'll need per cpu. Going pump > cpu > rad > cpu > rad > pump is about the suggested hook up. Think if AQmade an Aquero 7, which supports this use case, it'll be popular with miners setting up large mining operations. Cpu mining is worthwhile, and those 64 core cpus need water cooling. Aquacomputer would have to add Linux support too, as it gives about a 10% hash rate bump.
> 
> PXE boot would be a possible workaround. But, cutting down on controllers would be amazing cost savings. Want to make sure the main system turns on all the slaves. Think I'll be able to cut down on pump, reservoir, and power costs this way. I'll know more once I have the second system up in a couple months.
> 
> I want the pumps and fans being aware of each other, and when to speed up without causing problems, especially for the pumps. I'll need somewhere between five and ten pumps. Maybe use some type of pipe between the computers just for safety.
> 
> My current case can support an mitx board as well. Might as well figure out if this is worthwhile with that.


Your proposed mining scheme is well outside my personal experience, but I wonder if placing an OCTO in each machine, and tying all the OCTOs to a HUBBY7 in a master machine would work. You could tie one flow sensor and four temp sensors to each OCTO. You would not see each system's component temperatures on the central machine, but if coolant or coolant/ambient delta is sufficient, it may work?


----------



## Section31

zerophase said:


> US. Have my VPN turned on.


backorder at modmymods lol.


----------



## InfoSeeker

Section31 said:


> backorder at modmymods lol.


If you have to have one, highflow.nl has some in stock, but you will be paying European shipping rates to North America.


----------



## blitzraider

Is there any way to keep the Aquaero running a few more minutes after my computer shuts down? I want to lower the water temp closer to ambient faster instead of letting it sit.


----------



## InfoSeeker

blitzraider said:


> Is there any way to keep the Aquaero running a few more minutes after my computer shuts down? I want to lower the water temp closer to ambient faster instead of letting it sit.


The aquaero is always on if your mobo provides 5V to USB in the off state, but pumps and fans need 12V.

Perhaps one could provide 12V from a separate power supply, but if memory serves the aquaero is very finicky about being on a different power supply from the mobo... something about ground levels I believe.

And that would not serve the pumps, unless you had 12V for the pumps also powered from the fan ports.

It may be possible to run an OCTO from an external power supply, I have done so myself to run a test rig.


----------



## blitzraider

InfoSeeker said:


> The aquaero is always on if your mobo provides 5V to USB in the off state, but pumps and fans need 12V.
> 
> Perhaps one could provide 12V from a separate power supply, but if memory serves the aquaero is very finicky about being on a different power supply from the mobo... something about ground levels I believe.
> 
> And that would not serve the pumps, unless you had 12V for the pumps also powered from the fan ports.
> 
> It may be possible to run an OCTO from an external power supply, I have done so myself to run a test rig.


I might just set up a delayed shut down via windows, or maybe even an "emergency" shutdown via aquasuite once the water temp reaches below a certain temp? (the second one sounds a little crazy though lol) Thanks for the ideas though.


----------



## kendo5587

My OCTO is not recognised by windows, I've definitely put the usb header cable in the right way. , is that because I plugged the molex power in while the pc was on?


----------



## JustinThyme

May be. I generally dont connect things when the machine is powered up. Did you connect the USB or molex first?
The only time I had an OCTO bork on me was when they pushed out X23 I believe it was that was pulled quick like. Then X24 had a warning to unplug everything from the devices before update. After that one they have all been good, on X40 now. I contacted their support via ticket online and they sent me a new OCTO, didnt want the old one back as they said they already knew what happened and no way to fix it in a cost effective manner so I just got a new one and tossed the old one. You could have bad Karma and just was unforutnate to get a DOA. It does happen. Contact their support team but leave out the part of plugging things in with machine powered up.

When you say its not recognized by windows did you try installing the aqausuite and that doesnt recognize it? Do all the fans run at full bore when you plug them in?
I just looked and not one of my aquacomputer devices is listed by name in device manager but they are all present in aquasuite. You have to load aquasuite to set them up then they are good after that. You can unplug them from USB if you want but they come default to wide open. When mine borked it had no output period and the red light was flashing.

Edit: scratch that. they are listed under USB devices. but I dont know if that happens before or after the software is loaded. It does not show my aquacomputer 6Pro though. D5 Next, High flow Next, quadro and OCTO are all there.


----------



## Section31

I have an question. I just got the flow cable to connect the next flow meter to the octo and its sayin my flow is 1774l/h when the next flow meter itself is reporting 217l/h. Obviously the next flow meter own reading are most accurate. Very odd difference


----------



## Section31

kendo5587 said:


> My OCTO is not recognised by windows, I've definitely put the usb header cable in the right way. , is that because I plugged the molex power in while the pc was on?


Did you plug it wrong direction. If your fans power on then its working.


----------



## Shawnb99

Section31 said:


> I have an question. I just got the flow cable to connect the next flow meter to the octo and its sayin my flow is 1774l/h when the next flow meter itself is reporting 217l/h. Obviously the next flow meter own reading are most accurate. Very odd difference


That's not normal. I have mine connected to my Aquero and it reads the same flow rate


----------



## Biggu

Section31 said:


> I have an question. I just got the flow cable to connect the next flow meter to the octo and its sayin my flow is 1774l/h when the next flow meter itself is reporting 217l/h. Obviously the next flow meter own reading are most accurate. Very odd difference


just to make sure, its one device correct? The display reads one thing while the cable to the octo says something else? I suppose its possible you need to calibrate it on one of the two. I dunno about the octo but In the aquaero 6 you can change scaling so maybe its off?


----------



## InfoSeeker

Section31 said:


> I have an question. I just got the flow cable to connect the next flow meter to the octo and its sayin my flow is 1774l/h when the next flow meter itself is reporting 217l/h. Obviously the next flow meter own reading are most accurate. Very odd difference


One thing you may want to check is the setting for 'Units for flow values' in the 'Units' section of the aquasuite 'Settings' tab. If that is set to 'Liter per minute', the aquasuite may have an issue. I run mine at 'Liter per minute', and have experienced occasional bugs.


----------



## Section31

Thanks will experiment more but at least i can get reading through next flow meter itself.


----------



## jvillaveces

In my new build, for space reasons, I am trying to use an Octo as the hub of the Aquacomputer system, rather than an Aquaero. I am not sure how to go about the aquabus connections: the other devices (calitemp sensor, D5 Next pump, High Flow Next sensor, Farbwerk) have mini connectors for the aquabus port, and the cables that come with them have standard 4-pin connectors on the other side... but the Octo's aquabus port is also for a mini-connector. Aquacomputer doesn't sell aquabus cables that have mini-connectors on both ends.
So, I've been thinking of using RGBpx cables, which have the appropriate connectors at both ends, but I have no idea whether the pinouts are compatible with aquabus. Any suggestions or ideas?


----------



## ManniX-ITA

jvillaveces said:


> my new build, for space reasons, I am trying to use an Octo as the hub of the Aquacomuter system, rather than an Aquaero.


To my understanding you can only connect an Aquaero to the aquabus port on the Octo:


----------



## jvillaveces

Thank you! RTFM is always a good idea, huh? So, how are you supposed to connect the pump and the calitemp sensor to the octo? The flow sensor seems to just want a USB interface, perhaps the same strategy (no aquabus) would work for the pump and the farbwerk, but how about the calitemp?
If I were to insist on establishing an aquabus network, would the splitty4 work as a hub?


----------



## ManniX-ITA

jvillaveces said:


> but how about the calitemp?


Calitemp sensors can only be connected to an Aquaero



jvillaveces said:


> If I were to insist on establishing an aquabus network, would the splitty4 work as a hub?


Yes but AFAIK the splitty4 only works connected to an Aquaero as well


----------



## InfoSeeker

jvillaveces said:


> Thank you! RTFM is always a good idea, huh? So, how are you supposed to connect the pump and the calitemp sensor to the octo? The flow sensor seems to just want a USB interface, perhaps the same strategy (no aquabus) would work for the pump and the farbwerk, but how about the calitemp?
> If I were to insist on establishing an aquabus network, would the splitty4 work as a hub?


Nyet.
If you need aquabus you need an aquaero, end of story.
Plus the Calitemp is compatible only with an aquaero.


> For sensor operation, an aquaero 5 or aquaero 6 device with firmware version
> 2100 or higher is required. Compatible firmware versions are included starting
> with aquasuite version 2018-1. (manual)


----------



## jvillaveces

Thank you guys. I guess I need to figure out how to install a Hubby7 instead! I'm sad to give up the calitemp, but a full AQ6 is out of the question in this build. Does anyone have experience with the integrated coolant temp sensor in the HF Next? Can I just rely on that, or should I implement traditional thermistors? I don't need extreme precision, just a useful enough basis for my fan curves


----------



## ManniX-ITA

jvillaveces said:


> Does anyone have experience with the integrated coolant temp sensor in the HF Next?


I have read that is quite good, I think someone tested it in this thread and posted the results (not really sure).
If you don't need precision should be ok.


----------



## Shawnb99

jvillaveces said:


> Does anyone have experience with the integrated coolant temp sensor in the HF Next?


It’s about 0.5 degrees off from my calitemps or other sensors. So pretty accurate, same goes for the one in the D5 Next. 
I’m pretty impressed with how accurate they are


----------



## Exilon

Do the latest versions of Aquasuite have the ability to add multiple data sources to one detailed graph?
I did this by stacking and using transparency but it it forces me to use fixed scales and thing still doesn't quite line up on the X axis


----------



## InfoSeeker

Exilon said:


> Do the latest versions of Aquasuite have the ability to add multiple data sources to one detailed graph?
> I did this by stacking and using transparency but it it forces me to use fixed scales and thing still doesn't quite line up on the X axis
> View attachment 2517458


You can use Data Log > Analyze Data to make a chart using multiple data sources.

Create ChartOn Desktop


----------



## JustinThyme

ManniX-ITA said:


> I have read that is quite good, I think someone tested it in this thread and posted the results (not really sure).
> If you don't need precision should be ok.


I have 3 things that monitor temps. Cali temp, D5 next and Next flow meter. The cali temp is located on the outlet of my GPUS just because I can but the Next D5 feeds into two more D5s in a serial top before hitting the Next flow meter. They are 0.4C different and no matter how much load I have on components none of them are off by more than 1C from the others. The outlet of the GPU will rise just a little but a gnats fart generates more heat. Just proves the fact that so long as you have a decent flow rate that any place in the loop is the same give or take 1C with the loop saturated and a heavy workload.


----------



## Exilon

InfoSeeker said:


> You can use Data Log > Analyze Data to make a chart using multiple data sources.
> 
> Create ChartOn Desktop
> View attachment 2517543
> 
> View attachment 2517558


Data logging is a completely different feature from the live monitoring.


----------



## InfoSeeker

Exilon said:


> Data logging is a completely different feature from the live monitoring.


Yes and no.

The 'On Desktop' chart I showed in my previous post displays on my desktop real-time. The quickest update interval is 2 minutes, but for the rest it works like any object displayed on an Overview Page.


----------



## DaLiu

Any specific reason why would my Octo dissapears from Aquasuite, I mean, I am booting in Windows, I can see Octo in Aquasuite just fine and maybe in 30 min or later when I check back my Octo is disconnected, I tried to connect it to another usb port on Hubby, reconnected all cable on Octo, not sure what can cause the issue.

Also second issue, when my Octo is running fine but one of the fans ramps for no reason to 100% for a sec and back to the profile, even if I set the fans on specific RPM still at some point I hear one of them ramping at 100%, it happens every couple of hours I could say for 1 sec or less.


----------



## DaLiu

Hardware:
-----------------------------------
Ryzen 9 5950X
ASUS ROG Crosshair Viii Dark Hero
Nvidia RTX 3900 FE
G.Skill 64 GB Trident Z Royal DDR4-3600MHz CL14-15-15-35
Seasonic TX-1000
Western Digital SN850 1TB
Sabrent Rocket 4 Plus 2TB
Crucial MX500 SSD 2TB
Western Digital 10TB WD100EMAZ
10 x Noctua NF-A12x25 PWM fans

Audio:
-----------------------------------
DAC/AMP RME ADI-2 DAC
Beyerdynamic DT-990 Edition 250 Ohm

Watercooling:
-----------------------------------
TechN CPU waterblock
EKWB EK-Quantum Vector FE RTX 3090
1 x Watercool Heatkiller Rad 360-S
2 x Watercool Heatkiller Rad 360-L
Aquacomputer D5 Next pump
Aquacomputer High Flow Next
Aquacomputer Leakshield
Aquacomputer ULTITUBE D5 150 PRO reservoir
Aquacomputer DP Ultra water
Bykski fittings
Barrow and Bykski copper tubes


View attachment 2518106
View attachment 2518107
View attachment 2518108
View attachment 2518110
View attachment 2518111
View attachment 2518112
View attachment 2518113
View attachment 2518114
View attachment 2518115
View attachment 2518116
View attachment 2518117
View attachment 2518118
View attachment 2518119
View attachment 2518120
View attachment 2518121
View attachment 2518122
View attachment 2518123
View attachment 2518124
View attachment 2518125
View attachment 2518126


----------



## DooRules

Did a fresh install of W10 and for some reason I cannot download the aquasuite software. Any ideas as to why


----------



## Turgin

I have a D5 NEXT I have been connecting via Aquabus for quite some time. I'm now ditching the Aquaero and farbwek 360 in favor of an Octo so I want to switch the port to RGBpx out instead but its not working. The pump ring itself works fine.

I have changed the port to RGBpx in the System tab and assigned a controller on the RGBpx tab along with making sure the lighting slider is on. I've even done a new fresh install of Aquasuite and reset the device to factory defaults. I've tried a different RGBpx cable and different strips. No bent pins on the port that I can see.

Any other ideas to try?


----------



## jlakai

Anyone still using their Aquero 6's in their new builds? I'm debating if its worth all the trouble to use anymore.


----------



## InfoSeeker

jlakai said:


> Anyone still using their Aquero 6's in their new builds? I'm debating if its worth all the trouble to use anymore.


At the moment, my standard AC electronic gear list for a build consists of, OCTO, Flow NEXT, D5 PWM, Splitty9, Splitty4, Hubby7 and Farbwerk360 if needed.


----------



## Biggu

Turgin said:


> I have a D5 NEXT I have been connecting via Aquabus for quite some time. I'm now ditching the Aquaero and farbwek 360 in favor of an Octo so I want to switch the port to RGBpx out instead but its not working. The pump ring itself works fine.
> 
> I have changed the port to RGBpx in the System tab and assigned a controller on the RGBpx tab along with making sure the lighting slider is on. I've even done a new fresh install of Aquasuite and reset the device to factory defaults. I've tried a different RGBpx cable and different strips. No bent pins on the port that I can see.
> 
> Any other ideas to try?


have you tried to connect the pump to the USB header and configure the pump direct?


----------



## Turgin

Biggu said:


> have you tried to connect the pump to the USB header and configure the pump direct?


Yes. Right now I even have the pump running connected via USB to a computer that has never had anything AC in it. Checked the port setting on the pump display itself and everything looks correct.

I guess the RGBpx out is broken in some way.


----------



## Shawnb99

I ****ing hate updates that brick your device unless you update the firmware only for the update to **** up and I now have to disconnect all power for 5 minutes to fix it. What ****ing idiot thought this up

Still not ****ing working, won’t update my firmware so my octo is now bricked.


----------



## JustinThyme

DooRules said:


> Did a fresh install of W10 and for some reason I cannot download the aquasuite software. Any ideas as to why


Check your time and date are correct and not set for a region you are not in. Got me once before. That and you have to have a device that is new enough to still be on the update list.


----------



## JustinThyme

Shawnb99 said:


> I **ing hate updates that brick your device unless you update the firmware only for the update to ** up and I now have to disconnect all power for 5 minutes to fix it. What ****ing idiot thought this up
> 
> Still not ****ing working, won’t update my firmware so my octo is now bricked.


Im on X42, went smooth for me. I had one some time ago (I think it was X23 or X24) that bricked my OCTO and put in a ticket on the support site and they sent me a new one.


----------



## Shawnb99

It usually goes smooth for me as well, been awhile since I had an update brick a device. Still a PIA and should be a warning on the update. I've reached the point where I'm going to stop updating unless it's a major release.


----------



## JustinThyme

Shawnb99 said:


> It usually goes smooth for me as well, been awhile since I had an update brick a device. Still a PIA and should be a warning on the update. I've reached the point where I'm going to stop updating unless it's a major release.


The X23, I think it was, was a cluster fugg from the get go and the next release a few days later just added a prompt to unplug everything and not have it on a hub. I’ve not had an issue since then but that was very wide spread. Got just about everyone. Who wants to cut loose their cable management and isolate to a FW update? No one I know of.


----------



## devis592

kpoeticg said:


> Subbed
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Edit: Should you reserve a cpl posts? Feel free to ask a mod to delete this for a reserved space if needed


Hi I’m new here, how do I post here?


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## JustinThyme

devis592 said:


> Hi I’m new here, how do I post here?


Just like that


----------



## paskowitz

Does anyone know if it is possible to put a custom image on the display of the High Flow Next? Also, I built 2 custom loops for people and they both have Aquacomputer monitoring hardware/Aquasuite. I'd like to receive some sort of notification if one of their sensors goes past a specified value. What is the best way to do that? The email server function?


----------



## Asunder

Can anyone with some electronics/cabling experience help me out with something? 
I've been having this issue with my configuration and it's driving me insane, I've tried everything to fix it, did a clean install and wiped everything twice, still persists. 
PC does not want to shut down both via windows shut down or power button. I've identified what's causing it, it's an adapter cable that bifurcates the PC case power switch and reroutes it through the pump via RPM signal. It's basically used as an alarm switch, I have it set to shut down the PC in case the temperature rises to a specified point.

I don't know why it does this, I have checked the cable polarity and tried switching it and the result is the same. I've updated bios, disabled the power cycle option as well to no avail. 

Would be grateful if anyone has any insight on this as AQ support takes very long lately (took about 2 months until I got an actual service confirmation previously).

My loop is pretty simple, Aquastream pump, 3 fans with Splitty9 Active via PWM control on an x570 Gigabyte mobo. 
Also of note, when I tested the alarm condition it worked and shut down normally, although I can't tell whether the pump kept the PC from booting due to temperature or not (pretty hard to test this since I can't make a log file without Aquasuite running).


----------



## JustinThyme

Did you unplug the power button headers on the MOBO and try that? I use the aquaero RPM output to the CPU fan header. Pump not running and it shuts down on CPU fan fault.


----------



## Asunder

JustinThyme said:


> Did you unplug the power button headers on the MOBO and try that?


If I plug the case power switch directly, it works fine and stays off. But when I plug this back in-between pump and mobo, it does it again. I just don't understand how it does that, I've flipped the switch like 3 times just in case there would have been a polarity issue, turned restart option in windows regedit, turned the bios option off as well and it still does this. Also tried 2 different bios versions, clean windows install etc. 

I have a rough idea of what you're saying, I think I have a simple 3 pin RPM cable but I'm not quite sure how to do it or whether the Gigabyte bios has that option, I'll have to look it up. Can you set it to shut down past a certain temperature threshold in Aquasuite?


----------



## JustinThyme

There’s actually a relay on the aquaero that is also programmable. I just use the 3 pin cable to the CPU fan header. If the pump isn’t turning showing rotation it shuts down. No temp limit involved. I never go above 30C on the loop temp with plenty of fans. The only thing that would cause me to go into danger with be no flow and even then it takes a bit to get to TDP on the CPU that’s gonna shut it down.

pretty much all MOBOs have the CPU fan shut down. More who use aquaero disable it but I run the cable from the aquaero rpm output to it. Pump stops so does PC.


----------



## Asunder

JustinThyme said:


> There’s actually a relay on the aquaero that is also programmable. I just use the 3 pin cable to the CPU fan header. If the pump isn’t turning showing rotation it shuts down. No temp limit involved. I never go above 30C on the loop temp with plenty of fans.
> pretty much all MOBOs have the CPU fan shut down.


I might give it a try as I don't really have any other solution anyway and it would be incredibly bothersome to replace an almost new pump. I've been considering ditching all of this and going for a D5 HK combo and ***k it, but I've spent so much time modding the case, intake, drilling the pump bracket etc, that it would be a bit of a letdown. It's like one hurdle after another.

Anyway, I'm not sure which one is the best approach. This cpu already runs pretty hot even in idle (3950x), even though the system is new so I haven't really run anything else than a 15 min Cinebench, I'm afraid the water temps could rapidly increase. The reason why I wanted it in the first place is because I would like to leave the pc rendering overnight and not have to worry about noise and temps. These P12's have a very smooth sound, they barely start being noticeable at close to max rpm so the case absorbs it well. 
Cheers for the suggestions btw!


----------



## JustinThyme

Exactly what are you running as for the aqua computer products and the rest of your loop? At this point Im taking blind stabs. If its temps you should be able to lower the TDP in the BIOS where it will shut down where you want it and not necessarily the chips TDP. Never something Ive faced. Im running a 1080XE @ 4.8 GHz all cores with a pair of 2080Tis at 2130 and comfortable I could leave them on a month long loop with the CPU never passing 80C on an AVX workload and the CPUs never passing 40C, go on vacation in Key west and come back with it still cranking out whatever I left it cranking out.

Some of it has to do with the load but most of it has to to with your cooling solutions ability to dissipate the heat. if you fall short in the cooling dept then the smart choice is to eitther build a better cooling solution or cut back on juice and the clocks.


----------



## Asunder

@JustinThyme You really have good, low temps, but also a lot of radiators I see (I assume the Mora is either underneath or external).

I haven't overclocked the CPU (at some point I would, once I figure out the memory timings), though after 10 mins of prime95 the water climbed to 31 degrees at 1200RPM fan speed. I'm running an Aquastream pump with their CPU block and I have a Splitty9 Active in the back to control the fan speed via PWM (will attach pic). I only have one 360 Radiator, but I ditched the door panel and made a pretty basic wooden plate with a mesh filter layer to improve airflow.

I've pondered about getting an Aquaero for a while now, but at this point I'm gonna admit it's starting to piss me off a bit, I've had nothing but problems with their "ecosystem" (months of back and forth CS, warranty issues, etc.), it really makes me wish there were a competitive brand out there that can put out better quality with full support. If I threw 200$ at it and it had done the same reboot bs on me I would rage-blast it against the wall at that point. I'm starting to suspect the pump PCB is complete trash and the ports just don't make proper contact.

To resume the speed signal/alarm topic, I've tried your suggestion but it didn't trigger anything on the Bios side. Then again maybe some manufacturers have dogshit BIOS code. I have an option where I can enable a warning for CPU fan RPM cut-off and it did nothing, tested with Prime95 in Aquasuite and set the temperature fairly low. Now I'm not really sure how to set it to shut down only if the pump stops working.


----------



## JustinThyme

I had but one issue with an aquacumputer OCTO. A software update screwed the pooch and bricked the OCTO during a firmware update. X23 of aqausuite I believe. I put in a ticket online and they overnighted me a new one, didnt want the old one back as they said they know what happened it it was screwed with no easy way to repair. Cost more to repair I guess by replacing the chip than to make it. There was a huge stink on that one and the next version they put up gave you a pop up to unplug all the fans from it before doing the firmware update. They got enough flak from that and Im guesssing sent out a lot of free OCTOs that they removed X24 and fixed whatever was bricking the devices. Seemed to be just the OCTOs. Their user forum was flooded with people saying they are not about to undo all their cable management just do an update and Im down with that too. Its up to X42 now. The aquero was the first thing I bought and its never given me any issues. I have a bunch of aquera gear. Aquaero, D5 Next, Next flow meter, Octo, Quadro and Cali temp as well as a couple of the splittys. There is nothing that compares, not even close. MOBOs suck as does the corsair commander. The Hysteresis is all whacked. Fans up and down and up and down and up and down no matter how you set the curves. With the aquacomputer devices they are nice and smooth Set a min and a max temp with a speed range and it synchs up the devices and you dont even have to run the soft ware if you don't want to after that but I have monitoring up on my desktop using it. A lot of folks go for just the Octo or quadro or multiples there of. 8 channels on the Octo and 4 on the quadro. They dont have the relay outputs like the aquaero but have more channels and are less expensive. They can all be used to control PWM pump speeds or for non PWM pumps they have the power adjust thats an aqaubus device that can handle the power of the pump.

Its about how far you want to take it. I use a lot of it and like I said just the one problem and they overnighted the replacement VIA DHL from Germany. I almost bought the same pump you have but went with the D5 Next that feeds into a bitspower dual series top with two primochill enhanced D5 PWM pumps in that for 3 in series. The Mora is external and has two more pumps but I havent even put it in the loop yet. Have some plumbing to rework and moving the GTR 420 to the bottom, losing the 480 thats in the bottom now and the GTS360 thats in the middle is moving to the front where the EK 360SE is now. Or if Im too lazy Ill leave the EK 360 there. They are both slim and dont give much added dissipation but the MORA will take care of that. 9 140 fans pushing and 4 200MM fans pulling. Then IM going to move the corsair QL 120s off the middle 360 up top pulling air in to blow across the VRM heat sink and RAM. I'LL Have push pull 140s on the bottom 420 and with that rad being a little shorter than the 480 I'll have two more 140s exhausting the basement that's separated from the top by a mid plate where the 360 is now. With all that I dont expect the fans to run much above the lower limit if at all. We will see.

Hows the Vario work? One block Ive been tempted to try, the one with the adjustable bow after its mounted.


----------



## Asunder

JustinThyme said:


> Hows the Vario work? One block Ive been tempted to try, the one with the adjustable bow after its mounted.


It has some screws that you have to adjust manually with an allen key, pretty much. As a general idea, each one of them is pretty clever thought as it moves it 3d, if you have to have a good mental image of how you're moving on each axis to try out different combinations. I think it's the result of pretty good craftsmanship, but do note that you need a LOT of patience to actually make use of its adjustability. They recommend that you do benchmarks in between, let it cool and then keep adjusting until you get a lower delta. So you would probably have to run a hefty amount of back and forth testing.

You seem to have a lot of experience with their monitoring tools, could I ask for your advice on how to get the shutdown function in a more simple way? Aka without having to get a whole pile of parts that would overcomplicate things. I'm pretty cautious about molex connectors right now as they've announced a completely new PSU standard soon that eventually all manufacturers will follow, since 5V isn't needed anymore that means there will 100% be no point in not using sata instead. Most of the aquacomputer stuff still uses them, so I don't know.

Can an octo do relays for the shutdown or is that an Aquaero exclusive? I was thinking alternatively maybe I could get a High Flow sensor (the next has a relay port), but still not sure whether that would cause the same rebooting issue.

Btw, you got really lucky on customer support, either that or they have a different department for american customers. I waited a month and a week just to get a reply with service info, and then another 2 weeks to have it repaired. So I know it's going to be a waiting game (part of the reason why I'm starting to get tired of this).

Edit: another note, it's actually such a shame that the pump pcb's are flimsy trash, these pumps are damn smooth and quiet, low power and very low vibrations. Wish I had taken one without the fragile display that moves around with the pcb.


----------



## RoivonPC

I rebuilt my loop after installing new radiators, Ultitube/D5 next combo, and a leakshield. Does anyone have exper with the fill option for the Leakshield? I'm uncertain it will fill my entire loop.

Edit, top, front, and bottom rad.


----------



## geriatricpollywog

Is there any benefit to using an aquero now that all motherboards made in the last 4 years have headers for water temp and flow rate?


----------



## InfoSeeker

0451 said:


> Is there any benefit to using an aquero now that all motherboards made in the last 4 years have headers for water temp and flow rate?


It's the aquasuite that is unique.

Personally, for a 'standard' build I would forgo the aquaero and opt for an OCTO, a High Flow NEXT, and and whatever Hubbys & splitters needed.


----------



## Asunder

InfoSeeker said:


> Personally, for a 'standard' build I would forgo the aquaero and opt for an OCTO, a High Flow NEXT, and and whatever Hubbys & splitters needed.


Can the Octo also work independent of Aquasuite like Aquaero can? As in configuring it once in a windows instance and then letting it run autonomously. If you have no way to access Windows then I assume there's no way of storing those settings?


----------



## InfoSeeker

Asunder said:


> Can the Octo also work independent of Aquasuite like Aquaero can? As in configuring it once in a windows instance and then letting it run autonomously. If you have no way to access Windows then I assume there's no way of storing those settings?


I believe once you setup the OCTO it can run without aquasuite, but it does not have built-in virtual sensors like the aquaero. And the OCTO is not able to control other AC devices over the aquabus.

If you are running Linux, the aquaero is probably the best device.


----------



## JustinThyme

0451 said:


> Is there any benefit to using an aquero now that all motherboards made in the last 4 years have headers for water temp and flow rate?


OH YES!!!
The MOBO may be able to read water temp and flow rate OK but the control sucks. Thats mostly why people go to aquacomputer in the first place. You still need an accuarate temp sensor, or at least close and even more so an accurate flow meter. I tried several flow meters and temp sensors and the most accurate are aqaucomputer. The Bitpispower squirrel cage with feedback was horrible and the barrowch was off by A LOT and the calitemp is about as good as it gets although there are other devices in my loop that also measure temp but they are also aquacomputer like the D5 Next and the Next flowmeter.


----------



## chibi

I have an older High Flow + Calitemp sensor setup. Is there a big enough difference to upgrade with the newer High Flow 2 that includes an in house in temp sensor? Thanks


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## Shawnb99

Aquero is also the only device that has voltage control.


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## InfoSeeker

chibi said:


> I have an older High Flow + Calitemp sensor setup. Is there a big enough difference to upgrade with the newer High Flow 2 that includes an in house in temp sensor? Thanks


If your system is functioning and you are not making changes, I would say no.

I have a High Flow NEXT and a High Flow USB and I can do a flow comparison between the two this weekend. I assume the flow sensor bits to be the same between the Flow NEXT and Flow 2.


----------



## Shawnb99

chibi said:


> I have an older High Flow + Calitemp sensor setup. Is there a big enough difference to upgrade with the newer High Flow 2 that includes an in house in temp sensor? Thanks


There's a 0.4 temp difference between my two calitemps and my High Flow Next. So no if you got a Calitemp there's no need to upgrade for any temp sensor. The High flow next has other features worth upgrading for though


----------



## Section31

For those wondering i just confirmed that the lianli uni fans are 16 led per fan in serial (making it 32led). You can control 6 fans per rgbpx connector


----------



## chibi

Shawnb99 said:


> There's a 0.4 temp difference between my two calitemps and my High Flow Next. So no if you got a Calitemp there's no need to upgrade for any temp sensor. The High flow next has other features worth upgrading for though



I had a new in box High Flow Next, but decided I didn't need the extra features and passed it along. Now deciding if I should keep my old High Flow or get the High Flow 2 instead. I like the idea of High Flow 2 built in tempt sensor as less cables to manage. But is that worth extra $100? Hmm... 🤔


----------



## InfoSeeker

chibi said:


> I have an older High Flow + Calitemp sensor setup. Is there a big enough difference to upgrade with the newer High Flow 2 that includes an in house in temp sensor? Thanks


ShawnB covered the temperature aspect, below is a chart for flow rate differences in the same loop at the same time. The Flow NEXT returned a flow rate 5 to 6 l/h greater than the Flow USB over the full range.

Edit: the Flow NEXT appears to have better smoothing than the Flow USB


SetupChart


----------



## mandrix

JustinThyme said:


> There’s actually a relay on the aquaero that is also programmable. I just use the 3 pin cable to the CPU fan header. If the pump isn’t turning showing rotation it shuts down. No temp limit involved. I never go above 30C on the loop temp with plenty of fans. The only thing that would cause me to go into danger with be no flow and even then it takes a bit to get to TDP on the CPU that’s gonna shut it down.
> 
> pretty much all MOBOs have the CPU fan shut down. More who use aquaero disable it but I run the cable from the aquaero rpm output to it. Pump stops so does PC.


Hi Justin.
I haven't been around here much for a while, playing a little forum catch up. I beleive we've talked on the Aquacomputer forum in the past.
I wanted to quantify what you said about being able to shut down the system by running a cable from the rpm header on the Aquaero to the motherboard. I'm curious how a signal from the pump is transmitted to the mobo. Is this with specifically one of the Aquacomputer pumps or using a aquabus connection? Or any pump connected to the Aquaero that outputs the rpm signal to the Aquaero?
I'm running dual DDC pwm controlled pumps with a Swiiftech dual pump top, connected to an AQ6 with the rpm and pwm signals, powered directly from the psu. My old memory is missing some parts here and there about the rpm output from the Aquaero units, though I believe in the past I have used the rpm output from a PowerAdjust that was powering a D5/non pwm pump.

As for being able to shut down due to low flow, what I have done before is use the relay header connected to the top momentary switch on my Case Labs Merlin case, with the Aquasuite software setup to trip the relay when flow goes below whatever setpoint you decide is critical. Flow numbers being provided from the Aquacomputer "high flow" unit. I would think you could use your rpm solution along with this to cover all the bases?
I used to use the relay to split the pin 16 wire on the 24 pin cpu output from the psu as well (using flow as criteria in Aquasuite) but I switched to intersecting the power button for reasons that escape me right now. Big case of CRS in my old age at times.
mandrix


----------



## RoivonPC

After my rebuild I didn't include my Calitemp sensor as my d5 next pump and flow meter have temp sensors. When I went to reset my fan curve neither of those sensors were available. So did I screw up? My pump and flow meter are connected via usb. Can I connect a aquabus connection or are those still unused by the pump and flow meter?

Otherwise I'll have to drain and install the temp sensor.

_Edit_ Corrected temp sensor name.


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## InfoSeeker

RoivonPC said:


> After my rebuild I didn't include my Aquabus temp sensor as my d5 next pump and flow meter have temp sensors. When I went to reset my fan curve neither of those sensors were available. So did I screw up? My pump and flow meter are connected via usb. Can I connect a aquabus connection or are those still unused by the pump and flow meter?
> 
> Otherwise I'll have to drain and install the temp sensor.


I am not sure what an aquabus temperature sensor is, but your D5 NEXT temperature sensor will need to be imported into the aquaero by using one of the 'Software temperature sensors' under the 'Sensors' tab.


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## RoivonPC

Excellent, I was hoping I could do something like that. My searching just didn't take me this far. 

As for the temp sensor, I was using the wrong name, it's a calitemp sensor. 









Aquacomputer Calitemp digital temperature sensor internal/external thread G1/4 for aquaero 5/6


Digital temperature sensor with outstanding accuracy over a wide temperature range. The sensor is equipped with one G1/4 inner thread and one G1/4 outer thread with o-ring seal and can be installed directly between water block/radiator and hose fitting.




www.performance-pcs.com


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## JustinThyme

The aquaero has a speed output. Just plug that into your CPU fan header and make sure your BIOS is set to shut down on absence of signal (most are by default) and you are set. No pump movement and PC shuts down. You do need a PWM pump though.

You can also use a Flowmeter for the same thing. If it’s moving you are good, it stops the PC shuts down.


----------



## Biggu

JustinThyme said:


> The aquaero has a speed output. Just plug that into your CPU fan header and make sure your BIOS is set to shut down on absence of signal (most are by default) and you are set. No pump movement and PC shuts down. You do need a PWM pump though.
> 
> You can also use a Flowmeter for the same thing. If it’s moving you are good, it stops the PC shuts down.


Thats smart! I assume you are talking about the RPM header? Does it need configured or is it already outputting a signal and just needs hooked up?


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## RoivonPC

InfoSeeker said:


> I am not sure what an aquabus temperature sensor is, but your D5 NEXT temperature sensor will need to be imported into the aquaero by using one of the 'Software temperature sensors' under the 'Sensors' tab.
> View attachment 2522881


Thank you very much this was exactly what I needed.


----------



## JustinThyme

Biggu said:


> Thats smart! I assume you are talking about the RPM header? Does it need configured or is it already outputting a signal and just needs hooked up?


It already has an output. Just connect to CPU fan header.


----------



## Asunder

JustinThyme said:


> The aquaero has a speed output. Just plug that into your CPU fan header and make sure your BIOS is set to shut down on absence of signal (most are by default) and you are set. No pump movement and PC shuts down. You do need a PWM pump though.
> 
> You can also use a Flowmeter for the same thing. If it’s moving you are good, it stops the PC shuts down.


I can't find that option anywhere in Gigabyte BIOS. Which motherboard brand are you using?
I'm really curious, and pretty fed up with the customer support on both sides, so if there's a bios that has that I am heavily leaning towards that brand, it might be the only good solution. At the very least, this could be a PSA for new builders as well.


----------



## JustinThyme

Im using an ASUS R6EE. Not familiar with gigabyte BIOS but a quick web search points to a setting for CPU fan fail. Just a matter of finding it hidden in some obscure place.


----------



## Asunder

JustinThyme said:


> Im using an ASUS R6EE. Not familiar with gigabyte BIOS but a quick web search points to a setting for CPU fan fail. Just a matter of finding it hidden in some obscure place.


There is an option like that, CPU fan warning in x570 Aorus BIOS (smart fan), but it's completely useless. It only gives a warning sound, that's in no way a "safety feature", hence the question. I set up an alarm with a signal cut-off in Aquasuite (3pin cpu fan stop signal) and it didn't shut anything down.

I meant if other brands that have a better rep actually have this built-in safety. I checked a bunch of x570 Asus manuals and there's no mention of anything like that so I don't know. Would be nice to know which ones have it, at least I'd consider one. 

You're on a XE platform I assume, so it's no surprise if they are way better built for this.


----------



## Fluxmaven

Haven't read back to see what you're using, but on an Aquaero you can just go to the alarm config section and set thresholds to shut the computer down based on whatever you want. I have one set to alert if temps hit a certain value and then shutdown at a slightly higher value. As well as alerts and shutdowns if flow rate drops below certain levels.

IDK if the newer controllers like the Octo or Quadro have the same functionality.


----------



## JustinThyme

Asunder said:


> There is an option like that, CPU fan warning in x570 Aorus BIOS (smart fan), but it's completely useless. It only gives a warning sound, that's in no way a "safety feature", hence the question. I set up an alarm with a signal cut-off in Aquasuite (3pin cpu fan stop signal) and it didn't shut anything down.
> 
> I meant if other brands that have a better rep actually have this built-in safety. I checked a bunch of x570 Asus manuals and there's no mention of anything like that so I don't know. Would be nice to know which ones have it, at least I'd consider one.
> 
> You're on a XE platform I assume, so it's no surprise if they are way better built for this.


With an aquero if the board doesnt support it you can program one of the relay outputs to tie into the power button circuit to shut it down.


----------



## Asunder

JustinThyme said:


> With an aquero if the board doesnt support it you can program one of the relay outputs to tie into the power button circuit to shut it down.


I don't have an Aquaero for this, but technically I assume it should be the same? I'm using a relay on the pump circuit, but the problem is if I use this relay cable, the PC doesn't shut down properly, it shuts for a second and then reboots continuously. I'm trying to come up with a solution, but I fear an Aquaero would have the same problem. AC told me the motherboard is causing this, and GB customer support tells me it's the pump's fault lmao...God knows what's going on anymore.




Fluxmaven said:


> Haven't read back to see what you're using, but on an Aquaero you can just go to the alarm config section and set thresholds to shut the computer down based on whatever you want. I have one set to alert if temps hit a certain value and then shutdown at a slightly higher value. As well as alerts and shutdowns if flow rate drops below certain levels.


Do you know if Aquaero can do this by itself or is it dependant on a cable? Asking cause if I use a 3 pin rpm cable and expect the mainboard to shutdown based on the signal cut-off from Aquasuite, it's not working (on GB x570 aorus at least). I wish I had another setup to test this with, but sadly it's not an option.


----------



## TeslaHUN

Im building an external radiator box wich is far from my PC
The box will have an independent PSU and 12x Arctic P12 ARGB fan on the radiators .
I heared that Aquacomputer Octo or Quadro ?! can control pwm fan rpms/ rgb without connecting to the motherboard. Just connect it once via internal usb , set the fan curves/lighting and it will save it and work independenlty after i disconnect the usb cable. Is that correct ? And how can i connect the standard 3pin argb 5v headers to that RGBpx header ? some kind of extra cable is required i guess. 🙏


----------



## Fluxmaven

Asunder said:


> Do you know if Aquaero can do this by itself or is it dependant on a cable? Asking cause if I use a 3 pin rpm cable and expect the mainboard to shutdown based on the signal cut-off from Aquasuite, it's not working (on GB x570 aorus at least). I wish I had another setup to test this with, but sadly it's not an option.


The Aquaero just needs to be connected via USB. (they come with an internal USB cable). 

I know it works because I got my quick disconnects that attach my external pump/rad setup hooked up backwards one time so it was pushing against the internal D5 causing basically zero flow. I booted the PC up and immediately the alarm went off then it shut down.









However, I noticed my D5 NEXT doesn't have the alarm configuration menu. It has an alarm menu and you can set it to go off based on temps or whatever, but there isn't the option to do an emergency shutdown. So, the setup I'm describing probably only works with Aquaero or possibly the quadro/octo. The pumps likely don't have this functionality.


----------



## Andrew LB

Shawnb99 said:


> It usually goes smooth for me as well, been awhile since I had an update brick a device. Still a PIA and should be a warning on the update. I've reached the point where I'm going to stop updating unless it's a major release.


You typically shouldn't even be updating firmware unless you're encountering problems that are addressed by the update or if major changes are added by it. Otherwise, if it works... don't fix it.

I know... i'm OCD as well and always want the most current firmware. must resist.


----------



## mandrix

This has been floating around for years. Hope it helps someone. probably posted somewhere in this thread. This requires an Aquaero unit and relies on setting alarms in Aquasuite, as was recently stated. These don't rely on a motherboard for anything, and the alarm conditions could be temperature or flow.
After reading JustinThymes post about connecting the rpm header of the Aquaero to the mobo, I connected the cable to the cpu fan on my Asus board and then enabled monitoring in the BIOS. Untested so far.


----------



## mandrix

mandrix said:


> This has been floating around for years. Hope it helps someone. probably posted somewhere in this thread. This requires an Aquaero unit and relies on setting alarms in Aquasuite, as was recently stated. These don't rely on a motherboard for anything, and the alarm conditions could be temperature or flow.
> After reading JustinThymes post about connecting the rpm header of the Aquaero to the mobo, I connected the cable to the cpu fan on my Asus board and then enabled monitoring in the BIOS. Untested so far.
> 
> View attachment 2523711


Well obviously you NEED a mobo, but the signal break is made at the Aquaero.


----------



## Asunder

Fluxmaven said:


> The Aquaero just needs to be connected via USB. (they come with an internal USB cable).
> I know it works because I got my quick disconnects that attach my external pump/rad setup hooked up backwards one time so it was pushing against the internal D5 causing basically zero flow. I booted the PC up and immediately the alarm went off then it shut down.
> 
> However, I noticed my D5 NEXT doesn't have the alarm configuration menu. It has an alarm menu and you can set it to go off based on temps or whatever, but there isn't the option to do an emergency shutdown. So, the setup I'm describing probably only works with Aquaero or possibly the quadro/octo. The pumps likely don't have this functionality.


I didn't know it has this functionality, I thought the ATX break + relay plug is the only option (albeit with data loss, still) for a safety shut down. Might get an Aquaero to try it anyways, it seems like it's the only potential workaround left. This really clears a lot, huge thanks for the explanation!



mandrix said:


> This has been floating around for years. Hope it helps someone. probably posted somewhere in this thread. This requires an Aquaero unit and relies on setting alarms in Aquasuite, as was recently stated. These don't rely on a motherboard for anything, and the alarm conditions could be temperature or flow.
> After reading JustinThymes post about connecting the rpm header of the Aquaero to the mobo, I connected the cable to the cpu fan on my Asus board and then enabled monitoring in the BIOS. Untested so far.


Did you get any results with the rpm header? Actually it would be nice to know if your Asus bios has a shutdown too, I know GB doesn't - when I tested it, it was just a warning sound. But this was ju with aquasuite alone anyways, would be interesting if Aquaero behaved differently.


----------



## mandrix

Asunder said:


> I didn't know it has this functionality, I thought the ATX break + relay plug is the only option (albeit with data loss, still) for a safety shut down. Might get an Aquaero to try it anyways, it seems like it's the only potential workaround left. This really clears a lot, huge thanks for the explanation!
> 
> 
> Did you get any results with the rpm header? Actually it would be nice to know if your Asus bios has a shutdown too, I know GB doesn't - when I tested it, it was just a warning sound. But this was ju with aquasuite alone anyways, would be interesting if Aquaero behaved differently.


No, I have not yet. Currently having a problem where the mobo reboots for no reason. I think I have THAT fixed anyway. I am running around 35TB of HDD space and I need time to pull the power from all but the boot SSD before I shut down cold. Soon, I hope.


----------



## chibi

Just wondering if anyone can confirm the Ultitube can be installed to a fan, instead of the radiator as per below?


----------



## InfoSeeker

chibi said:


> Just wondering if anyone can confirm the Ultitube can be installed to a fan, instead of the radiator as per below?
> 
> View attachment 2524296


I see no reason why you could not mount to a fan, as long as you have the same fan size as your mount. Probably need longer screws to mount both the fan and the ultitube mount.


----------



## Shawnb99

chibi said:


> Just wondering if anyone can confirm the Ultitube can be installed to a fan, instead of the radiator as per below?
> 
> View attachment 2524296



Yep mounts to a fan as well


----------



## chibi

Awesome, I was concerned the hole size was only for smaller M3/4 screws. I was thinking to mount it to a fan with one of those thick coarse screws you usually use when mounting a fan to the case.


----------



## ManniX-ITA

chibi said:


> Awesome, I was concerned the hole size was only for smaller M3/4 screws. I was thinking to mount it to a fan with one of those thick coarse screws you usually use when mounting a fan to the case.


I think your concern is valid.
It's made for radiators fan attachments or if the fan is attached to a radiator.
Just looking at the holes seems pretty obvious to me the thick fan screws can't go through.
You'll need to use the included screws and nuts.
Therefore it really depends on the fan design if it does fit or not.
Likely it does but you need to have enough clearance for the nut.


----------



## chibi

ManniX-ITA said:


> I think your concern is valid.
> It's made for radiators fan attachments or if the fan is attached to a radiator.
> Just looking at the holes seems pretty obvious to me the thick fan screws can't go through.
> You'll need to use the included screws and nuts.
> Therefore it really depends on the fan design if it does fit or not.
> Likely it does but you need to have enough clearance for the nut.


Lol back to square one then 😄


----------



## ratzofftoya

I'm having a heck of a time here! Just booted up a new machine with my AC D5 Next, Farbwerk, and Aquaero 6 all connected to a Hubby7 over USB, and the Hubby7 connected to an internal USB header on my MSI X570 Godlike. Hubby7 did not have SATA power but all devices are powered. OS is Windows 11. The OS told me that the port was experiencing a power surge! I unplugged and have since tried all kinds of different ways to connect the various devices to my motherboard but, while all are working, none of them show up in windows. Instead, whenever I plug one in (via a different powered USB hub (NZXT), unpowered hub (random USB expander part), or directly, either into the USB 2.0 internal header or USB 3.0 header via adapter, it says that the USB device is not recognized. It shows up in device manager as an unrecognized USB resource. Any ideas?


----------



## ratzofftoya

Update: rolled back to W10. Same issue. I’m dying here!


----------



## JustinThyme

ratzofftoya said:


> I'm having a heck of a time here! Just booted up a new machine with my AC D5 Next, Farbwerk, and Aquaero 6 all connected to a Hubby7 over USB, and the Hubby7 connected to an internal USB header on my MSI X570 Godlike. Hubby7 did not have SATA power but all devices are powered. OS is Windows 11. The OS told me that the port was experiencing a power surge! I unplugged and have since tried all kinds of different ways to connect the various devices to my motherboard but, while all are working, none of them show up in windows. Instead, whenever I plug one in (via a different powered USB hub (NZXT), unpowered hub (random USB expander part), or directly, either into the USB 2.0 internal header or USB 3.0 header via adapter, it says that the USB device is not recognized. It shows up in device manager as an unrecognized USB resource. Any ideas?


Did you do a clean install or just update it from Win 10? The Aquaero gave me no problems what so ever with WIN11. There was one build that I had issues with USB connections dropping out then coming back but moved on from that one since then. Right now on .194 and no issues at all. My aqauero doesn't show up in device manager but its there all day long in aquasuite.

If you are having USB power issues the only thing I can recommend is starting from square one and unplug everything then add them one at a time. Devices do crap the bed. Could even be a cable or even the MOBO ports.


----------



## zerophase

Just want to confirm that it's safe to remove the sticker when installing the Aquaero 6 XT heatsink. I won't short anything, right?


----------



## iamjanco

I'd say follow the instructions, but they don't tell you to remove that sticker, do they. /sarc

But do follow the instructions otherwise, and removing the sticker is pretty much safe as far as the risk of shorts is concerned.

The only other thing they don't spell out is making sure *the ceramic component* I noted in the screen cap below fits properly into the notch in the heat sink as you assemble the Aquaero and the heatsink. I've had Arqueros show up where that component had slightly longer leads. Just go slow if you do need to compress that component a bit and make sure its three soldeed legs don't short to each other:










@zerophase


----------



## zerophase

iamjanco said:


> I'd say follow the instructions, but they don't tell you to remove that sticker, do they. /sarc
> 
> But do follow the instructions otherwise, and removing the sticker is pretty much safe as far as the risk of shorts is concerned.
> 
> The only other thing they don't spell out is making sure *the ceramic component* I noted in the screen cap below fits properly into the notch in the heat sink as you assemble the Aquaero and the heatsink. I've had Arqueros show up where that component had slightly longer leads. Just go slow if you do need to compress that component a bit and make sure its three soldeed legs don't short to each other:
> 
> View attachment 2527323
> 
> 
> @zerophase


Mine had no ceramic component.


----------



## iamjanco

zerophase said:


> Mine had no ceramic component.


Strange... so the 6XT you have doesn't have the three-legged component circled in the following image?


----------



## zerophase

iamjanco said:


> Strange... so the 6XT you have doesn't have the three-legged component circled in the following image?
> 
> View attachment 2527457


It does not have that. I'd have to take the heat sink off to get to it. Doesn't have the wires poking through either. I don't believe my other one has it either. (Put that together years ago)

I was actually looking for it while attaching the heatsink.


----------



## iamjanco

zerophase said:


> It does not have that. I'd have to take the heat sink off to get to it. Doesn't have the wires poking through either. I don't believe my other one has it either. (Put that together years ago)
> 
> I was actually looking for it while attaching the heatsink.


That's really strange as even the current pix available on AquaComputer's *6XT* and *6LT* product pages show that component installed:


----------



## zerophase

Think there is some variation. I got it after a restock at Performance PCs. Maybe, they could not get that component with supply shortages, and used something else.


----------



## iamjanco

zerophase said:


> Think there is some variation. I got it after a restock at Performance PCs. Maybe, they could not get that component with supply shortages, and used something else.


Without telling anyone else and/or updating their product pages to reflect the change?

Perhaps German engineering ain't what it used to be.


----------



## InfoSeeker

iamjanco said:


> Without telling anyone else and/or updating their product pages to reflect the change?
> 
> Perhaps German engineering ain't what it used to be.


The modification is probably not as much a German engineering issue as an aquacomputer corporate policy issue. They want to protect their existing inventory by not revealing modifications. It was the same when the Splitty4 was updated with the additional connector type.

In Dec 2019 I purchased an aquaero 6 and a passive heat sink direct from aquacomputer. Not wanting to bend components with the possibility of breakage, I asked them to mount the heat sink. I was advised that the aquaero had been modified and bending that component to mount the heat sink was no longer an issue.

I heartily disagree with their non-disclosures policy, and believe it to be deceptive. I know not of any other manufacturer who does not version their releases. When buying aquacomputer components I always query the vendor if they have the latest version. There are most likely still aquaeros in the supply chain that have the old component.

I recently decommissioned that aquaero I purchased December 2019, and submit pictures of 'new' (relative) vs original.


New versionOriginal Version


----------



## iamjanco

InfoSeeker said:


> The modification is probably not as much a German engineering issue as an aquacomputer corporate policy issue. They want to protect their existing inventory by not revealing modifications. It was the same when the Splitty4 was updated with the additional connector type.
> 
> In Dec 2019 I purchased an aquaero 6 and a passive heat sink direct from aquacomputer. Not wanting to bend components with the possibility of breakage, I asked them to mount the heat sink. *I was advised that the aquaero had been modified and bending that component to mount the heat sink was no longer an issue*.
> 
> I heartily disagree with their non-disclosures policy, and believe it to be deceptive. I know not of any other manufacturer who does not version their releases. When buying aquacomputer components I always query the vendor if they have the latest version. There are most likely still aquaeros in the supply chain that have the old component.
> 
> I recently decommissioned that aquaero I purchased December 2019, and submit pictures of 'new' (relative) vs original.
> 
> 
> New versionOriginal Version
> View attachment 2527518


Thanks for that info, it at least explains what happened. Did you note any id/versioning info differences on the PCBs for the two versions? Also, other than having the latest and greatest, was there a reason why you decommissioned the older version? Only asking because I have both a 6XT and a 6LT laid out like the older version.


----------



## InfoSeeker

iamjanco said:


> Thanks for that info, it at least explains what happened. Did you note any id/versioning info differences on the PCBs for the two versions? Also, other than having the latest and greatest, was there a reason why you decommissioned the older version? Only asking because I have both a 6XT and a 6LT laid out like the older version.


I do not see any versioning on the PCB, it merely identifies it as an aquaero 6. Functionally, all aquaeroes are an LT, some with differing screens mounted. The functionality between pre & post mod are identical.

I changed my external radiator from 3 airplex modularity (2 with d5 pumps built-in) [picture below], to a MO-Ra3 420. The octo met the requirements of the design, and is much more compact. My max flow rate with the airplex was around 2 lpm, and the new unit yields 3 lpm.


----------



## zerophase

Yeah, the messaged me back with basically the same info as Infoseeker.


----------



## ratzofftoya

D5 Next issue here! 

So I've managed to connect my Aquaero and Farbwerk via USB but no such luck with the D5 Next...I just can't manage to get it connected via USB to the PC. That said, it's connected via Aquabus to the aquaero, and Aquasuite "sees" it on the Aquabus (under Aquabus submenu of Aquaero) but not under Devices (under "Updates" submenu of Aquasuite). The problem now is that if I'm playing certain games (not all of them), the D5 next starts blinking red and making an alarm sound. It's in a part of the system where I can't really see the pump so I don't know what it's saying. It would be impossible to get it out of there without taking the whole thing apart which I'm loathe to do. I can't quite tell what is causing the alarm. Certainly temps are high at that time but not higher than other times of system stress. For instance, it didn't go off during a half hour Cinebench run, or an hour of playing one game on highest settings, but without fail goes off when doing 15 minutes or so of a different game. Also, my motherboard reads out the CPU temps and sometimes the D5 next goes off when the CPU is at 60-70, which is totally normal for this CPU.

Anybody have any ideas about what's going on and how I can disable the alarm? I'd love to connect via USB but alas, it keeps being "not recognized."


----------



## zerophase

Just realized I can't fit my Aquaero in the Enthoo Elite 5.25 bay add-on with a 480 radiator at the top. Anyone know if there's anywhere else I can place it in the case? 

If I can't fit the bay in, I'll have to get creative. Think it'll hold if I screw two screws into the reservoir mount area? Is there a third party bay I could mount in the case some how?


----------



## jvillaveces

zerophase said:


> Just realized I can't fit my Aquaero in the Enthoo Elite 5.25 bay add-on with a 480 radiator at the top. Anyone know if there's anywhere else I can place it in the case?
> 
> If I can't fit the bay in, I'll have to get creative. Think it'll hold if I screw two screws into the reservoir mount area? Is there a third party bay I could mount in the case some how?


You can always remove the display, in effect turning it into an LT, and mount it anywhere convenient. If you do this, make sure to use standoffs between the unit and the case, so the display connector pins can't contact the case.


----------



## InfoSeeker

jvillaveces said:


> You can always remove the display, in effect turning it into an LT, and mount it anywhere convenient. If you do this, make sure to use standoffs between the unit and the case, so the display connector pins can't contact the case.


And if the unit you have is a 6 XT, activate it prior to removing the display.
The 6 XT comes with 30 a months aquasuite license, but the 6 PRO and 6 LT have only 18 months.


----------



## Shawnb99

jvillaveces said:


> You can always remove the display, in effect turning it into an LT, and mount it anywhere convenient. If you do this, make sure to use standoffs between the unit and the case, so the display connector pins can't contact the case.


Can also keep the display attached and just remove the 5 1/2 bay mounts.


----------



## mil777

Is there any way to run a delta sensor without Aquasuite service running? The Aquasuite background process randomly goes to over 10% CPU usage and I want to get rid of it.

I have two 2pin hardware sensors for water and ambient and just created a simple delta sensor in 'Playground' tab.
But when I restart/go to BIOS everything ramps up to 100% meaning it depends on this sensor, sometimes it even stops the service while in Windows, just terrible...

I thought the device could save/remember this virtual sensor since I'm working with two inputs that are directly connected to the device, or am I doing something wrong?

Btw it's a Quadro, would Aquaero 6 LT make any difference in this situation?


----------



## InfoSeeker

mil777 said:


> Is there any way to run a delta sensor without Aquasuite service running? The Aquasuite background process randomly goes to over 10% CPU usage and I want to get rid of it.
> 
> I have two 2pin hardware sensors for water and ambient and just created a simple delta sensor in 'Playground' tab.
> But when I restart/go to BIOS everything ramps up to 100% meaning it depends on this sensor, sometimes it even stops the service while in Windows, just terrible...
> 
> I thought the device could save/remember this virtual sensor since I'm working with two inputs that are directly connected to the device, or am I doing something wrong?
> 
> Btw it's a Quadro, would Aquaero 6 LT make any difference in this situation?


Yes, the aquaero 6 has a firmware virtual sensor build in that will work without the aquasuite once set up. The playground virtual software sensors do require the aquasuite to be running.


----------



## JustinThyme

zerophase said:


> Just realized I can't fit my Aquaero in the Enthoo Elite 5.25 bay add-on with a 480 radiator at the top. Anyone know if there's anywhere else I can place it in the case?
> 
> If I can't fit the bay in, I'll have to get creative. Think it'll hold if I screw two screws into the reservoir mount area? Is there a third party bay I could mount in the case some how?


I took the brackets off and mine resides in the rear of the case. You can remove the display too if you want. I do all the set up through aqausuite. The dispaly doesnt do me much good when I have this on my desktop and a corsair nexus on my keybord monitoring other aspects.


----------



## frag85

I allowed Aquasuite to update this morning, "Aquasuite x.45 _insider version_". 
Now I don't see sensors in HWINFO. 
Anyone else have this issue or know how to get HWINFO to see Aquasuite sensors again? I was using HWINFO to forward values to MSI Afterburner.


----------



## Shawnb99

frag85 said:


> I allowed Aquasuite to update this morning, "Aquasuite x.45 _insider version_".
> Now I don't see sensors in HWINFO.
> Anyone else have this issue or know how to get HWINFO to see Aquasuite sensors again? I was using HWINFO to forward values to MSI Afterburner.


Pro or normal version of HWINFO? The normal version has a 12 hour shared memory limit, restart HWINFO and the sensors should show up again


----------



## frag85

Shawnb99 said:


> Pro or normal version of HWINFO? The normal version has a 12 hour shared memory limit, restart HWINFO and the sensors should show up again


Ah, I was afraid of that. I was on an older version 6.42.... Crap. I'll have to update to the new 12 hr or paid version.

Definitely would not have updated Aquasuite+Firmware if I knew it was going to screw up HWINFO. On a slightly older system where everything worked and don't use any of the new 'features' of either.

EDIT: No go, only see Flow on the latest HWINFO, and Aquasuite sees no sensors from HWINFO.


----------



## InfoSeeker

frag85 said:


> Ah, I was afraid of that. I was on an older version 6.42.... Crap. I'll have to update to the new 12 hr or paid version.
> 
> Definitely would not have updated Aquasuite+Firmware if I knew it was going to screw up HWINFO. On a slightly older system where everything worked and don't use any of the new 'features' of either.
> 
> EDIT: No go, only see Flow on the latest HWINFO, and Aquasuite sees no sensors from HWINFO.


I just updated to X.45, and after a reboot and firmware updates on my quadro, octo & flow next, all is normal.

EDIT: your HWiNFO 6.42 should work the same as far as the aquasuite is concerned.


----------



## frag85

InfoSeeker said:


> I just updated to X.45, and after a reboot and firmware updates on my quadro, octo & flow next, all is normal.
> 
> EDIT: your HWiNFO 6.42 should work the same as far as the aquasuite is concerned.


I contacted Aquacomputer and they are aware of and were able to reproduce the issue (AS sensors not showing up in HWINFO).

Maybe it is an issue on certain configurations.

I tried uninstalling and reinstalling HWINFO (6.42 and 7.12) and Aquasuite x.45 and still the same results. No AS sensors show up in HWINFO (6.42 or 7.12, 7.12 shows FLOW only).


----------



## JustinThyme

Looks like my freebie updates are over. I'll worry about the update later. Dont feel like running back downstairs to grab my wallet.


----------



## InfoSeeker

I want to share an external USB 3.0 hub I found that I like, a lot. Not sure if this is the right venue, but USB hubs are certainly a part of the aquacomputer system, so here goes.

The hub has a clamp feature, so it may be clamped to the bottom of some monitors, or to the back/front of a desk. Being clamped, it doesn't require two hands (2nd hand to steady the hub), and is easily placed out of the way. The manufacturer is Orico, and the lowest cost I found is $15.99 at Walmart.

It comes with an external power port for which I bought a 5V/2A Power Adapter.


Productattached to my desk


----------



## frag85

HWINFO has a 7.13-4601 beta is out which solves the OCTO issues on the new firmware.



New: aquasuite X - English forum - Aqua Computer Forum








Aquacomputer Aquasuite update to X.45 - HWINFO not reporting Octo data


Hi Martin. I just updated Aquasuite to X.45 (insider version). This update included firmware updates for the Octo and Quadro fan controllers and Farbwerk360 RGB controllers (and maybe other items that I do not have). Sebastian at Aquacomputer made a posted HERE that the Octo and Quadro have...




www.hwinfo.com


----------



## mandrix

My issues with x45 is the temperatures are all fouled up between the AQ6 & AQ5. Normally I use the Calitemp sensor to help 
derive Delta t but it's no longer showing up on the other unit, and the software temps from Aida64 aren't either.
I rolled back to x44 until they figure all this out.

I don't monitor Aquasuite in HWINFO so can't speak to that.


----------



## KCDC

Glad I checked Aquatunings site recently as they now have the 6 LT back in stock. Finally switching over to Aquaero with a 6 LT with passive heatsink, Octo, Vision and a High Flow LT sensor until the Next comes back in stock. Using 4 Silverstone pwm hubs for most of the fans (22) in their specific zones. Hoping this is my last fan control upgrade, shoulda just started here.


----------



## mandrix

Rockin Aquasuite x46 and it's working fine.
EDIT: I just have 2 Aquaero's, no Octo etc


----------



## KCDC

What sort of mounting material comes with the 6 LT? Is it for a drive bay or what? Trying to plan out this install as best as possible before it finally shows up. Tried searching for any pics or info and nothing. Also do all their flow sensors need to be horizontally installed? Read that the Next hi flow has to be, so wondering if the others do as well. Thanks for any info!


----------



## mandrix

Aquacomputer sales site says the Next flow sensor can function in any position.
I only have the earlier "high flow" sensors in my rigs and they supposedly are more accurate when used horizontally or close to it.


----------



## InfoSeeker

KCDC said:


> What sort of mounting material comes with the 6 LT? Is it for a drive bay or what? Trying to plan out this install as best as possible before it finally shows up. Tried searching for any pics or info and nothing. Also do all their flow sensors need to be horizontally installed? Read that the Next hi flow has to be, so wondering if the others do as well. Thanks for any info!


From the product page picture, I believe the mounting material consists of 4 standoffs. Drilling 2 to 4 penetrations on a bulkhead withing your system is required to mount the item.

If you want to place it in a bay mount either THIS, or one of THESE may be used.
Edit: the power adjust bezel I linked is NOT compatible with aquaero 6 LT.

My understanding of the high flow and high flow next is that their orientation does not impact accuracy as much as a propensity for the impeller to make a ticking noise, with a horizontal mounting being the least noisy. From the High Flow NEXT product MANUAL:


> *3. Assembly instructions*
> Integrate the sensor into your cooling system, directions of flow can be freely cho-
> sen. For optimum performance and minimum noise, the buttons and the white illu-
> minated area of the sensor should be facing upwards


----------



## mandrix

The Aquacomputer site apparently no longer list the "old style" high flow sensors that I have. 53068 part number I think, from memory.


----------



## KCDC

InfoSeeker said:


> From the product page picture, I believe the mounting material consists of 4 standoffs. Drilling 2 to 4 penetrations on a bulkhead withing your system is required to mount the item.
> 
> If you want to place it in a bay mount either THIS, or one of THESE may be used.
> 
> My understanding of the high flow and high flow next is that their orientation does not impact accuracy as much as a propensity for the impeller to make a ticking noise, with a horizontal mounting being the least noisy. From the High Flow NEXT product MANUAL:


Cool, thank you. Don't mind drilling, just wanted to know what I was getting into. 
Igors Lab mentioned against mounting the next meter vertical as well as leaving some even space without angled fittings for the best readings but perhaps it's just for that specific model. Aqua Computer high flow NEXT Review - Much more than just an accurate flow meter. Only it can’t speak yet. | igor'sLAB

Maybe it was poor english auto translate. either way, I've figured out a horizontal position today while cleaning up my back spaghetti. Thanks for the info! Gear is supposed to show up monday after weeks of shipping confusion, so looking forward to the install!


----------



## InfoSeeker

KCDC said:


> Cool, thank you. Don't mind drilling, just wanted to know what I was getting into.
> Igors Lab mentioned against mounting the next meter vertical as well as leaving some even space without angled fittings for the best readings but perhaps it's just for that specific model. Aqua Computer high flow NEXT Review - Much more than just an accurate flow meter. Only it can’t speak yet. | igor'sLAB
> 
> Maybe it was poor english auto translate. either way, I've figured out a horizontal position today while cleaning up my back spaghetti. Thanks for the info! Gear is supposed to show up monday after weeks of shipping confusion, so looking forward to the install!


Yes, as horizontal is the manufacturers recommended orientation, that is the best solution.

Excluding the poor bot-translation from German to English, I am not impressed with Igor'sLab evaluation:

placing both the test & reference meters in series, instead of switched, would normalize any deviations
they confirm, but do not test, the horizontal vs. vertical orientation, or at least do not share data if they did
they claim the internal temperature sensor as accurate, which it may be, but there are strong BIASES involved


----------



## KCDC

I tend to take all reviews into question which is why i bring it up here as well.Thanks again.


----------



## InfoSeeker

If looking for a High Flow NEXT, I noticed some are available at aquacomputer's web shop. (2021.11.15 04:32 GMT)


----------



## KCDC

InfoSeeker said:


> If looking for a High Flow NEXT, I noticed some are available at aquacomputer's web shop. (2021.11.15 04:32 GMT)


Hey, thanks! $40 in shipping, I'll see if US vendors get restocked first.


----------



## InfoSeeker

KCDC said:


> Hey, thanks! $40 in shipping, I'll see if US vendors get restocked first.


That is your prerogative, it was just information.
Aquatuning & MMM are hoping for Jan 2022, PPCs doesn't carry it.
You can buy one now at Amazon for $269.95, with free shipping.


----------



## JustinThyme

KCDC said:


> What sort of mounting material comes with the 6 LT? Is it for a drive bay or what? Trying to plan out this install as best as possible before it finally shows up. Tried searching for any pics or info and nothing. Also do all their flow sensors need to be horizontally installed? Read that the Next hi flow has to be, so wondering if the others do as well. Thanks for any info!


Not made for bay mounting. They simply have standoffs and you can put it where you want. The pro is the same thing with a display mounted to the front of it and bay mounting hardware.


----------



## KCDC

JustinThyme said:


> Not made for bay mounting. They simply have standoffs and you can put it where you want. The pro is the same thing with a display mounted to the front of it and bay mounting hardware.


Yeah, I luckily found a spot on the Enthoo Elite where the holes lined up perfect if you swap out that rear right panel for the rad/fan mount panel. Installed all but the flow meter last night and so far so good. Haven't done a deep dive into curves and settings yet but im already happier with the fan control.


----------



## JustinThyme

KCDC said:


> Yeah, I luckily found a spot on the Enthoo Elite where the holes lined up perfect if you swap out that rear right panel for the rad/fan mount panel. Installed all but the flow meter last night and so far so good. Haven't done a deep dive into curves and settings yet but im already happier with the fan control.


Cant get a better controller IMO. I have the pro and removed the display making it an LT. Mine is also in an enthoo elite. Didn't get any stand offs as I had the bay mounts and wasn't losing all that space for a display I don't use. So two pieces of RC car RX mounting tape (thin rubber with sticky on both sides and there you have it. Not going anywhere. Its stuck to the front inside the back panel, no screws necessary.


----------



## InfoSeeker

JustinThyme said:


> Cant get a better controller IMO. I have the pro and removed the display making it an LT. Mine is also in an enthoo elite. Didn't get any stand offs as I had the bay mounts and wasn't losing all that space for a display I don't use. So two pieces of RC car RX mounting tape (thin rubber with sticky on both sides and there you have it. Not going anywhere. Its stuck to the front inside the back panel, no screws necessary.


Did you nip the connector pins for the display, or attach an offset of some sort?


----------



## JustinThyme

InfoSeeker said:


> Did you nip the connector pins for the display, or attach an offset of some sort?
> View attachment 2532761


Clipped them off as I'll not be needing them anymore and also covered backplane in with nomex before attaching it to my case.


----------



## InfoSeeker

This is probably common knowledge to those in the know, but interesting news to me.
Coolant conductivity appears to go down as coolant temperature rises.


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## nikuk

nvm, found it


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## InfoSeeker

I was curious what the impact is running a High Flow NEXT vertical apposed to the recommended horizontal. I posted my impromptu test findings in the Water Cooling Test Thread.


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## nikuk

What do we know about aquasuite causing stutters in game?
I believe it has to do with the Asus EC (embedded controller) polling, as this is a common concern with Asus mobos and AIDA64 and occasionally hardwaremonitor... but you can workaround that in both of those programs. I've been digging but don't see a way to do so in aquasuite.
After a couple hours of A:B testing I can confirm its Aquasuite causing the stutters, and I got Aida64 to do it as well but also resolved by having it stop polling the Asus EC.


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## Turgin

I've been working on a new overview page for a smaller side monitor. I've spent about an hour and finally have the layout I want. I was editing the XAML for one item and it passed code validation but now attempting to even access that page crashes Aquasuite. Any ideas on how I can recover and not lose all of my layout work?

EDIT: Figured it out. Export the page, edit with Notepad++, import the page.


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## Trestles126

I recently reset windows and had to re download aqua suite and Hwinfo ajd reload my saved presets.
I’m noticing randomly maybe 2-3 times a day mu actual Aquaero screen does this random super fast cycle through all the pages with the audible tick noise then stops after maybe 5-10 seconds.
Anyone have a explanation for this?


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## Shamma

Hi. I just got an aquaero 6 xt and need a little help. I have the usb cable connected to the motherboard and I’m wondering if this is the way monitor the on board mobo sensors through the xt. Basically what I want to do is create a curve based on cpu temp for my mcp35x2. Thanks.


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## Trestles126

Shamma said:


> Hi. I just got an aquaero 6 xt and need a little help. I have the usb cable connected to the motherboard and I’m wondering if this is the way monitor the on board mobo sensors through the xt. Basically what I want to do is create a curve based on cpu temp for my mcp35x2. Thanks.


Ive always just used HWInfo64 the older version so it unlimited v6.42 I believe 

use the software sensors and u can create curved fan controls for whatever you want


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## InfoSeeker

Shamma said:


> Hi. I just got an aquaero 6 xt and need a little help. I have the usb cable connected to the motherboard and I’m wondering if this is the way monitor the on board mobo sensors through the xt. Basically what I want to do is create a curve based on cpu temp for my mcp35x2. Thanks.


There is a good chance the aquasuite Hardware Monitor will detect your cpu temps, depending on the mobo.


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## Shamma

InfoSeeker said:


> There is a good chance the aquasuite Hardware Monitor will detect your cpu temps, depending on the mobo.
> View attachment 2552686


That may be what I’m looking for, I’ll give it a shot. I have an Asus z690 Maximus Extreme.


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## Shamma

I checked all those boxes but I don’t see any sensor info. Should they just appear or do I have to create them. It’s very possible that I’m doing something wrong as I’m completely new to the aquaero and aqua suite.


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## InfoSeeker

Shamma said:


> I checked all those boxes but I don’t see any sensor info. Should they just appear or do I have to create them. It’s very possible that I’m doing something wrong as I’m completely new to the aquaero and aqua suite.


Click on the Data quick view tab. Then expand > Data from Aqua Computer service > Aqua Computer Hardware Monitor > your equipment. If you see your sensors there, you can import them into the various components.


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## Shamma

Thanks, I’ll give that a shot today. This thing is so gorgeous yet so complicated. So far I love it and if I can get things configured properly I’ll love it even more.


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## Montoya1

Will getting an LT soon, already have a High Flow NEXT and Quadro. What more can be done with the high flow next and Quadro being plugged into the Aquaero? So far I am very happy with their products and am looking at getting a leakshield at some point as well.


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## InfoSeeker

Montoya1 said:


> Will getting an LT soon, already have a High Flow NEXT and Quadro. What more can be done with the high flow next and Quadro being plugged into the Aquaero? So far I am very happy with their products and am looking at getting a leakshield at some point as well.


Why are you getting an aquaero lt? Depnding on your system's needs, the quadro & flow next may be sufficient.


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## Montoya1

InfoSeeker said:


> Why are you getting an aquaero lt? Depnding on your system's needs, the quadro & flow next may be sufficient.


There are a few features on the LT I like and for future builds.


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## InfoSeeker

Montoya1 said:


> There are a few features on the LT I like and for future builds.


Cool, I wasn't suggesting you not get one. The most useful function of an aquaero is for a system where USB connections are difficult or impossible to use.

If I bought a computer system that just meets my computing needs, I would have one that costs under $1,000 off the shelf, but my processor cost more than that, so I understand


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## Montoya1

InfoSeeker said:


> Cool, I wasn't suggesting you not get one. The most useful function of an aquaero is for a system where USB connections are difficult or impossible to use.
> 
> If I bought a computer system that just meets my computing needs, I would have one that costs under $1,000 off the shelf, but my processor cost more than that, so I understand


Yeah it looks too useful to not have. And I like my PC toys lol.


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## Shamma

InfoSeeker said:


> Click on the Data quick view tab. Then expand > Data from Aqua Computer service > Aqua Computer Hardware Monitor > your equipment. If you see your sensors there, you can import them into the various components.
> View attachment 2552695


I found all the sensors from my motherboard and omg there are a ton. Im thinking about using cpu average temp and assigned it to one of the eight software sensors. Do you think that’s the correct sensor to use? Now I just need to figure out how to do a curve with that sensor for the pump and rad fans if possible. Or maybe have the fans increase in speed dependent on the rpm of the pump. Im not sure how to go about doing it and any recommendations would be appreciated. Thanks again!


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## ArchStanton

Shamma said:


> Im not sure how to go about doing it and any recommendations would be appreciated. Thanks again!


I think many of us run the pumps wide open 24/7 and allow the fans to ramp with increasing temperatures. Once air has been purged from the loop, I find a D5 at 100% to be extremely quiet (if properly mounted to mitigate vibration).


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## InfoSeeker

Shamma said:


> I found all the sensors from my motherboard and omg there are a ton. Im thinking about using cpu average temp and assigned it to one of the eight software sensors. Do you think that’s the correct sensor to use? Now I just need to figure out how to do a curve with that sensor for the pump and rad fans if possible. Or maybe have the fans increase in speed dependent on the rpm of the pump. Im not sure how to go about doing it and any recommendations would be appreciated. Thanks again!


There are as many schemes as there are people.

I like to use a temperature difference between the coolant exiting the radiator, and ambient air in the room (Δt) as the source for my fan controller. Using the processor temperature will have your fans ramping up and down rapidly with no correlation to the temperature of the coolant, which is what the fans have control over.

As to the pump(s), I usually set them to a preset value, where they do not fluctuate. Find a flow rate that works at the least noisy RPM. Coolant flow rate typically has little effect on the cooling capability of the loop.


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## Shamma

That sounds logical. I have my mcp35x2 at 60%, could probably do 50%, and my rad fans at around 60%. Idle temps are very low but I’ll adjust things when I stress it with games. It’s crazy quiet at the moment. I have 10 noctua a12x25 fans and I can barely hear them.


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## Shamma

Can you create a new screen to display on the aquaero itself using one of the software sensors?


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## InfoSeeker

Shamma said:


> Can you create a new screen to display on the aquaero itself using one of the software sensors?


The aquaero has several display screens to choose from, but the LT does not have a display.


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## Shamma

I have the xt


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## Shamma

I have a couple more questions. I decided to get a hubby7 and an octo. I have the x4 hub on the aquaero and I’m wondering if I can use three calitemp sensors on the x4, then on the last aquabus port, use a splitty9 to connect another calitemp sensor, the octo, and possibly 2 d5 next pumps and a high flow next? My other question is the internal usb cables. Does the aquaero usb to header require the 5 pin usb or will the 4 pin header work fine, as well as other usb aquacomputer devices. This is a bit hard to explain so if any of you need more details maybe a can make a diagram. Thanks.


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## InfoSeeker

Shamma said:


> I have a couple more questions. I decided to get a hubby7 and an octo. I have the x4 hub on the aquaero and I’m wondering if I can use three calitemp sensors on the x4, then on the last aquabus port, use a splitty9 to connect another calitemp sensor, the octo, and possibly 2 d5 next pumps and a high flow next? My other question is the internal usb cables. Does the aquaero usb to header require the 5 pin usb or will the 4 pin header work fine, as well as other usb aquacomputer devices. This is a bit hard to explain so if any of you need more details maybe a can make a diagram. Thanks.


From the aquabus X4 manual:


> Guidelines and recommendations:
> ● If used with multiple Calitemp sensors, each Calitemp sensor must be con-
> nected to an individual connector of the aquabus X4 board – do not con-
> nect two Calitemp sensors to the same connector using splitter cables!
> ● All other aquabus devices (such as poweradjust, mps, farbwerk, etc.) can be
> connected to any connector of the aquabus X4 board in any combination,
> also to ports that are connected to (exactly one) Calitemp sensor. Use
> aquabus splitters (product codes 53063, 53124 or 53231) to connect mul-
> tiple devices.


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## WiLd FyeR

Before I go out and buy some Phantek T30's fans. Any known compatibility issues with the Phantek T30's fans with the Octo fan controller or any other Aqua Computer fan controllers?


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## zerophase

When connecting the High Flow Next to the Aquaero 6 XT with the Aquabus cable do I need to use a signal cable as well?


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## Top Nurse

Greetings most exalted ones! 

I've got an Aquaero in my Aquaduct 360XT and an Aquaero 4 in my Feeding Frenzy project. Bought one of the Seasonic Q704 cases recently and have been thinking of a way to get an Aquaero 6 XT inside the case as there are no 5 1/4 slots. Been mulling about separating the display board from the main board by use of about a 6" cable. Has anyone else done this before?


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## InfoSeeker

Top Nurse said:


> Greetings most exalted ones!
> 
> I've got an Aquaero in my Aquaduct 360XT and an Aquaero 4 in my Feeding Frenzy project. Bought one of the Seasonic Q704 cases recently and have been thinking of a way to get an Aquaero 6 XT inside the case as there are no 5 1/4 slots. Been mulling about separating the display board from the main board by use of about a 6" cable. Has anyone else done this before?


The gigant with aquaero has the display separate from the aquaero. The ribbon cable connecting the aquaero & display is about 200mm long. It is not listed on the webshop, but has a part number, and can be purchased direct from aquacomputer. Send an email to support to order it. It should qualify for the envelope shipping rate.


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## Top Nurse

Outstanding answer and a pic too!


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## criskoe

Anyone ever experienced strange behaviour with T30 fans connected to a aquaero??

I have 9 of them connected to a 6LT. With 3 fans on each channel. And everything has been perfectly fine for a really long time. And now out of the blue the fans randomly act crazy From time to time. They ramp up and down sporadically For no reason and sometimes just go really high and then just stay there completely ignoring my fan curve. It’s like they have a mind of their own. Other strange part is in aqua suite when this is happening, the Fan graphs in my sensor page Just show a flat line and don’t reflect these crazy spikes and speeds. They just report the 1000 rpm they should be spinning at. And to make it weirder. Restarts don’t seem to fix it when it’s going crazy. I just have to wait till it stops. And it’s completely random on how long this will last and what random speeds my fans decide to spin at. Sometimes 5 min. Sometimes up to a hour. Sometimes I have to turn the pc off and walk away cause the fans blasting is unbearable. Lol. I can’t replicate the issue and it also can go days without happening. Many times now I’ve thought I’ve fixed it but only for it to return After a few days. It’s so weird.

I’ve checked all the connections. Re did them for good measure. I’ve reset the aquaero 6LT and also tried reflashing firmware. Nada. Still randomly happens. Really frustrating. Cause this has been working fine for a good part of a year with zero issues and out of the blue it started a few weeks back with no changes to aqua suite or the aquaero or the hardware.


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## Biggu

Probably not the same but I have been having an issue recently where Aquaero / aquasuite would quit polling the motherboard/ hardware. in Aquasuite any hardware sensor would either have no reading or default to 50c causing all the fans to ramp up. It would happen randomly like yours but either rebooting or shut down/ turn off PSU and bring it back online. Most recently though it happened and no matter what I did could I get it back to start the service and said something about check that the firewall allowed it. Looking at that my windows firewall was off and services wouldnt start due to dependencies. Tried quite a few things and ended up having to do a system restore to a few weeks ago. Its all back to working fine thought it was last night so I guess time will tell.


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## Jubijub

Hello everyone, it's been a while 

Rebuilding a new loop : 









I have a few questions, as it's been 5 years since I last played with all this : 

does anyone know which connector Aquacomputer uses for the "vision" components ? It's a very tiny white connector with 4 pins, way smaller than a Dupont fan connector
I use my workstation under Windows and Linux, which is the whole reason I bought an AQ6 in the first place. Do I still need an Aquabus ? (I am buiding one because I have all the parts, but is there a benefit or can the AQ speak with the components through USB ?)


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## InfoSeeker

Jubijub said:


> Hello everyone, it's been a while
> 
> 
> Spoiler
> 
> 
> 
> Rebuilding a new loop :
> View attachment 2567299
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have a few questions, as it's been 5 years since I last played with all this :
> 
> does anyone know which connector Aquacomputer uses for the "vision" components ? It's a very tiny white connector with 4 pins, way smaller than a Dupont fan connector
> I use my workstation under Windows and Linux, which is the whole reason I bought an AQ6 in the first place. Do I still need an Aquabus ? (I am buiding one because I have all the parts, but is there a benefit or can the AQ speak with the components through USB ?)



Molex PicoBlade
Aquasuite does not run under Linux, so USB does not work for aquaero under Linux and aquabus is the only means of communication between components.


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## Hexa-Core

InfoSeeker said:


> Aquasuite does not run under Linux, so USB does not work for aquaero under Linux and aquabus is the only means of communication between components.


If I have dual boot and do all settings in Aquasuite in Windows, all settings will be stored on aquaero and the fans should still be running according to my settings while using Linux, no?

Another question about the Flow sensor high flow NEXT. Is there a way to directly connect and control a PWM fan? Problem is that the quad and oct are not in stock where I live, and haven't been for a while, but now the Flow sensor high flow NEXT is in stock. If it can directly control a PWM fan, I could just use a fan hub and control the fan speed this way and set the pump to a static speed through the motherboard. Not ideal solution, but works better than letting the motherboard control fan speeds.


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## InfoSeeker

Hexa-Core said:


> If I have dual boot and do all settings in Aquasuite in Windows, all settings will be stored on aquaero and the fans should still be running according to my settings while using Linux, no?
> 
> Another question about the Flow sensor high flow NEXT. Is there a way to directly connect and control a PWM fan? Problem is that the quad and oct are not in stock where I live, and haven't been for a while, but now the Flow sensor high flow NEXT is in stock. If it can directly control a PWM fan, I could just use a fan hub and control the fan speed this way and set the pump to a static speed through the motherboard. Not ideal solution, but works better than letting the motherboard control fan speeds.


The aquaero will run autonomously without the aquasuite running. With Linux, as long as you do not depend on the aquasuite computer services (any USB input), the aquaero will run as setup.

If memory serves there is no PWM port on the High Flow Next, most likely because there is no external 12V input.


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## zerophase

If I want to add a fifth fan channel, which add on do I need?


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## InfoSeeker

zerophase said:


> If I want to add a fifth fan channel, which add on do I need?


What do you want to add this 5th fan channel to? Does it require a separate controller?


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## mgdman546

Hey everyone have a problem. I had the molex connector backwards and not fully seated into a aquacomputer Octo fan controller when testing some fans. My stupid mistake. It was hooked up to an aquaero 6 which is fine but there was a puff of smoke from the Octo. It wasn’t a direct short since power lines are on outside of connector but it put 12 volts through the 5 volt. Fan outputs do not work but there is power to them. However there is no continuity between ground and fan ground pins. I am guessing the pcb is shorted somewhere. There was a small resistor or diode that was fried right next to the molex connector and burned but no other noticeable damage. Question is this fixable at all If it was just a over current or needs to be replaced. Thanks


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## Shawnb99

zerophase said:


> If I want to add a fifth fan channel, which add on do I need?





InfoSeeker said:


> What do you want to add this 5th fan channel to? Does it require a separate controller?


To add an extra channel you can buy either a Quadro, Octo or D5 next.


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## Shawnb99

mgdman546 said:


> Hey everyone have a problem. I had the molex connector backwards and not fully seated into a aquacomputer Octo fan controller when testing some fans. My stupid mistake. It was hooked up to an aquaero 6 which is fine but there was a puff of smoke from the Octo. It wasn’t a direct short since power lines are on outside of connector but it put 12 volts through the 5 volt. Fan outputs do not work but there is power to them. However there is no continuity between ground and fan ground pins. I am guessing the pcb is shorted somewhere. There was a small resistor or diode that was fried right next to the molex connector and burned but no other noticeable damage. Question is this fixable at all If it was just a over current or needs to be replaced. Thanks


I'm going to say likely needs to be replaced.


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## d0mmie

I just had an Octo controller kill two of my fan channels couple of days ago. Happened from one day till another, they just stopped working and can no longer control them. Tried resetting the controller, but no dice. Also seemed to have semi damaged a couple of my Artic fans, one I can't PWM control and two others I can't read their RPM (they were daisy chained). Hard to tell what is at fault here. Guess it's just bad karma.


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## Methodical

I have the Caselab STH10 case and it has separate waterloops for the CPU and GPU. I want to install the Aquacomputer Calitemp digital temp sensors in each loop at the radiators. However. the cable is too short to reach from the radiator located at the bottom of the case to the top where the Aquaero is mounted. I searched and found the Fan/Aquabus extension cable (53163).

https://shop.aquacomputer.de/product_inf…roducts_id=3183

1. Can I use this extension cable (53163) with the sensor?

2. Is this extension cable basically a 4 pin fan extension cable?

3. If I connect accessories to the Aquaero, can they be controlled by both the software and Aquaero or do I have to designate which does the controlling? Or, when connected to the Aquaero, it becomes the controller?

4. The Aquaero has a molex power connection and the instructions states to connect to PSU. I noticed when I only connected the unit to the USB port of the MB it powered the unit and I was then able to install the software. Do I also have to connect to the PSU via the molex connection to be able to power the devices or is the USB connection enough to power things? I know the instructions says to use USB to install software and can be removed afterwards but is it a must to connect to the molex power connector? What are the consequences of not connecting via the molex?

If this extension cable can't be used can someone point me to the correct cable?

Thanks...Al


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## AshBorer

I transferred my Aquero 6 LT to a new Zen 4 build, and the software fails to detect the device. Anyone else have this issue? Ive read in other threads that other people are having USB related issues with Zen 4, but I still don't really know the root of the problem. I've tried every internal USB connector on my mobo to no avail.


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## Avacado

AshBorer said:


> I transferred my Aquero 6 LT to a new Zen 4 build, and the software fails to detect the device. Anyone else have this issue? Ive read in other threads that other people are having USB related issues with Zen 4, but I still don't really know the root of the problem. I've tried every internal USB connector on my mobo to no avail.


Are you 100% sure you didn't plug in the internal USB backwards? That has happened to me a few times on AC devices when I was scratching my head as to why it wasn't registering.


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## Bartdude

I would check with your mobo manufacturer for a possible USB update, AMD platform is notorious for USB issues


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## Biggu

Bartdude said:


> I would check with your mobo manufacturer for a possible USB update, AMD platform is notorious for USB issues


^ this. Had an issue where one of my keyboards wouldnt connect to my computer. Worked on any other computer but just not mine. Ended up updating all drivers and firmware and it connected.


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## Methodical

Question. I just started my system and the fans are connected to the AQ6 and running at 100%. I need to bring down the fan speed a bit until I have the time to adjust and setup the system. Can I just set the fans to a fixed speed such as 50% in Aquasuite? Also, can this be done with the pumps, too? The AQ is connected via USB for now. How is this done?

Update: Nvm. I figured it out. The software was acting bugging and not taking my adjustments. All is good.


Thanks...Al


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## apw63

Methodical said:


> Question. I just started my system and the fans are connected to the AQ6 and running at 100%. I need to bring down the fan speed a bit until I have the time to adjust and setup the system. Can I just set the fans to a fixed speed such as 50% in Aquasuite? Also, can this be done with the pumps, too? The AQ is connected via USB for now. How is this done?
> 
> 
> Thanks...Al


you should be able to go into aquasuite the fan section set fans to dc an to 50% power, can also be done from the menu screen of the AQ6


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## Methodical

apw63 said:


> you should be able to go into aquasuite the fan section set fans to dc an to 50% power, can also be done from the menu screen of the AQ6


I figured it out. The software was acting buggy and not accepting my adjustments. I rebooted and all is working fine now.

Thanks...


----------

